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| author | nfenwick <nfenwick@pglaf.org> | 2025-02-27 18:45:18 -0800 |
|---|---|---|
| committer | nfenwick <nfenwick@pglaf.org> | 2025-02-27 18:45:18 -0800 |
| commit | 82032ec3a6bc3bbb1e6bf63b73f008e46593f545 (patch) | |
| tree | 594582140b99242bcc953fd0c1daf37209961f35 | |
| parent | 9636666ce9bfe5aa22817023b34d2fece85e9689 (diff) | |
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diff --git a/48187/48187-0.txt b/48187-0.txt index 245a616..d1ec529 100644 --- a/48187/48187-0.txt +++ b/48187-0.txt @@ -1,11612 +1,11215 @@ -The Project Gutenberg eBook, Memorials of Old London, Volume II (of 2),
-Edited by P. H. Peter Hampson) Ditchfield
-
-
-This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most
-other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions
-whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of
-the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at
-www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have
-to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook.
-
-
-
-
-Title: Memorials of Old London, Volume II (of 2)
-
-
-Editor: P. H. Peter Hampson) Ditchfield
-
-Release Date: February 7, 2015 [eBook #48187]
-
-Language: English
-
-Character set encoding: UTF-8
-
-
-***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MEMORIALS OF OLD LONDON, VOLUME II
-(OF 2)***
-
-
-E-text prepared by Susan Skinner and the Online Distributed Proofreading
-Team (http://www.pgdp.net)
-
-
-
-Note: Project Gutenberg also has an HTML version of this
- file which includes the original illustrations.
- See 48187-h.htm or 48187-h.zip:
- (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/48187/48187-h/48187-h.htm)
- or
- (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/48187/48187-h.zip)
-
-
- Project Gutenberg has the other volume of this work.
- Volume I: see http://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/28742
-
-
-
-
-
-Memorials of the Counties of England
-
-General Editor:
-
-REV. P. H. DITCHFIELD, M.A., F.S.A., F.R.S.L., F.R.Hist.S.
-
-
-MEMORIALS OF OLD LONDON
-
-VOLUME II.
-
-
-[Illustration: CRAB TREE INN, HAMMERSMITH 1898
-
-_From a painting by Philip Norman, LL.D._]
-
-
-MEMORIALS OF OLD LONDON
-
-Edited by
-
-P. H. DITCHFIELD, M.A., F.S.A.
-
-Fellow of the Royal Historical Society
-
-Author of
-_The City Companies of London and their Good Works_
-_The Story of our Towns_
-_The Cathedral Churches of Great Britain_
-_&c. &c._
-
-In Two Volumes
-
-VOL. II.
-
-With Many Illustrations
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-London
-Bemrose & Sons Limited, 4 Snow Hill, E.C.
-and Derby
-1908
-
-[All Rights Reserved]
-
-
-
-
-CONTENTS OF VOL. II.
-
-
- Page
-
-The Palaces of London
- By Rev. R. S. Mylne, B.C.L., F.S.A. 1
-
-Elizabethan London
- By T. Fairman Ordish, F.S.A. 21
-
-Pepys's London
- By H. B. Wheatley, F.S.A. 52
-
-The Old London Bridges
- By J. Tavenor-Perry 82
-
-The Clubs of London
- By Sir Edwd. Brabrook, C.B., F.S.A. 99
-
-The Inns of Old London
- By Philip Norman, LL.D. 113
-
-The Old London Coffee-Houses
- By G. L. Apperson, I.S.O. 135
-
-The Learned Societies of London
- By Sir Edwd. Brabrook, C.B., F.S.A. 150
-
-Literary Shrines of Old London
- By Elsie M. Lang 166
-
-Crosby Hall
- By the Editor 182
-
-The Pageant of London; with some account of the City Churches,
-Christ's Hospital, etc.
- By the Editor 193
-
-Index 223
-
-
-
-
-LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS IN VOL. II.
-
-
-Crab Tree Inn, Hammersmith, 1898 _Frontispiece_
- (_From a painting by Philip Norman, LL.D._)
-
- Page, or
- Facing Page
-
-The Houses of Parliament (_From a photo. by Mansell & Co._) 4
-
-A View of the Savoy Palace from the River Thames 6
- (_From an engraving published by the Society of Antiquaries
- in 1750, from a plan by G. Virtue_)
-
-Portion of an exact Survey of the Streets, Lanes, and Churches 8
- (_Comprehended by the order and directions of the Right
- Honourable the Lord Mayor, 10th December, 1666_)
-
-The Prospect of Bridewell 10
- (_Published according to Act of Parliament, 1755, for Stow's
- Survey_)
-
-The Palace of Whitehall (_From a photo. by Mansell & Co._) 14
-
-St. James's Palace " " " 16
-
-St. James's Palace, from Pall Mall and from the Park 18
- (_From an old print_)
-
-Plan of London in the time of Queen Elizabeth (1563) 24
- (_From an old print_)
-
-Shooting Match by the London Archers in the Year 1583 44
- (_From an old print_)
-
-A View of London as it appeared before the Great Fire 56
- (_From an old print_)
-
-The Great Fire of London (_From an old print_) 76
-
-South-West View of Old St. Paul's " " 80
-
-Sir John Evelyn's Plan for Rebuilding London after the Great Fire
- (_From an old print_) 82
-
-The Undercroft of St. Thomas of Canterbury on the Bridge 84
-
-The Surrey End of London Bridge (_Drawn by J. Tavenor-Perry_) 89
-
-The Foundation Stone Chair " " " 93
-
-Old Westminster Bridge " " " 96
-
-Badge of Bridge House Estates " " " 98
-
-An Early Letter of the Royal Society, dated January 18th, 1693-4 152
-
-Cheapside, with the Cross, as they appeared in 1660 170
- (_From an old print_)
-
-Crosby Hall (_From a drawing by Whichillo, engraved by Stour_) 184
-
-St. Paul's Cathedral, with Lord Mayor's Show on the water 190
- (_From an engraving by Pugh, 1804_)
-
-Christ's Hospital (_From an old print_) 194
-
-Carrying the Crug-basket 196
-
-Wooden Platters and Beer Jack 198
-
-Piggin, Wooden Spoon, Wooden Soup-ladle 199
-
-Christ's Hospital: The Garden (_From a photo._) 200
-
-Old Staircase at Christ's Hospital 202
-
-The Royal Exchange (_From an engraving by Hollar, 1644_) 218
-
-
-
-
-THE PALACES OF LONDON
-
-BY THE REV. R. S. MYLNE, B.C.L. (OXON), F.S.A. F.R.S. (SCOTS.)
-
-
-The housing of the Sovereign is always a matter of interest to the
-nation. It were natural to expect that some definite arrangement
-should be made for this purpose, planned and executed on a grand and
-appropriate scale. Yet as a matter of fact this is seldom the case
-amongst the western nations of Europe. Two different causes have
-operated in a contrary direction. One is the natural predilection of
-the ruler of the State for a commodious palace outside, but not far
-from, the capital. Thus the great Castle of Windsor has always been
-_par excellence_ the favourite residence of the King of England. The
-other is the growth of parliamentary institutions. Thus the entire
-space occupied by the original Royal Palace has become the official
-meeting-place of the Parliament; and the King himself has perforce been
-compelled to find accommodation elsewhere.
-
-Look at the actual history of the Royal Palace of _Westminster_, where
-the High Court of Parliament now is accustomed to assemble. It was on
-this very spot that Edward the Confessor lived and died, glorying in
-the close proximity of the noble abbey that seemed to give sanctity to
-his own abode. Here the last Saxon King entertained Duke William of
-Normandy, destined to be his own successor on the throne. Here he gave
-the famous feast in which he foretold the failure of the crusades, as
-Baring Gould records in his delightful _Myths of the Middle Ages_. Here
-Edward I. was born, and Edward III. died. The great hall was erected by
-William Rufus, and the chapel by King Stephen. Henry VIII. added the
-star chamber. The painted chamber, decorated with frescoes by Henry
-III., was probably the oldest portion of the mediæval palace, and just
-beyond was the prince's chamber with walls seven feet thick. There was
-also the ancient Court of Requests, which served as the House of Lords
-down to 1834. The beautiful Gothic Chapel of St. Stephen was used as
-the House of Commons from 1547 to 1834. The walls were covered with
-frescoes representing scenes from the Old and New Testaments. In modern
-times they resounded to the eloquence of Pitt, Fox, Burke, and Canning.
-
-The curious crypt beneath this chapel was carefully prepared by H.M.
-Office of Works for the celebration of the marriage of Lord Chancellor
-Loreburn last December, and a coffin was discovered while making
-certain reparations to the stonework, which is believed to contain the
-remains of the famous Dr. Lyndwode, Bishop of St. David's from 1442 to
-1446.
-
-In the terrible fire on the night of October 16, 1834, the entire
-palace was destroyed with the exception of the great hall, which, begun
-by William Rufus, received its present beautiful roof of chestnut wood
-from Henry Yeveley, architect or master mason to Richard II.
-
-The present magnificent Palace of Westminster was erected by Sir
-Charles Barry between 1840 and 1859 in the Gothic style, and is
-certainly one of the finest modern buildings in the world. The river
-front is remarkably effective, and presents an appearance which at once
-arrests the attention of every visitor. It is quite twice the size of
-the old palace, formerly occupied by the King, and cost three millions
-sterling. It is certainly the finest modern building in London.
-
-Some critics have objected to the minuteness of the decorative designs
-on the flat surfaces of the walls, but these are really quite in accord
-with the delicate genius of Gothic architecture, and fine examples of
-this kind of work are found in Belgium and other parts of the Continent.
-
-Every one must admit the elegance of proportion manifested in the
-architect's design, and this it is which makes the towers stand out so
-well above the main building from every point of view; moreover, this
-is the special characteristic which is often so terribly lacking in
-modern architecture. One wonders whether Vitruvius and kindred works
-receive their due meed of attention in this twentieth century.
-
-Within the palace the main staircase, with the lobby and corridors
-leading to either House of Parliament, are particularly fine, and form
-a worthy approach to the legislative chambers of the vast Empire of
-Great Britain.
-
-The Palace of the _Savoy_ also needs some notice. The original house
-was built by Peter, brother of Boniface, for so many years Archbishop
-of Canterbury, and uncle of Eleanor of Provence, wife of King Henry
-III. By his will Peter bequeathed this estate to the monks of Montjoy
-at Havering-at-Bower, who sold it to Queen Eleanor, and it became the
-permanent residence of her second son Edmund, Earl of Lancaster, and
-his descendants. When King John of France was made a prisoner after the
-battle of Poitiers in 1356, he was assigned an apartment in the Savoy,
-and here he died on April 9, 1364. The sad event is thus mentioned in
-the famous chronicle of Froissart:--
-
- "The King and Queen, and all the princes of the blood, and
- all the nobles of England were exceedingly concerned from the
- great love and affection King John had shewn them since the
- conclusion of peace."
-
-The best-known member of the Lancastrian family who resided in this
-palace is the famous John of Gaunt, Duke of Lancaster. During his
-time, so tradition has it, the well-known poet Chaucer was here
-married to Philippa, daughter of Sir Paon de Roet, one of the young
-ladies attached to the household of Blanche, Duchess of Lancaster,
-and the sister of Catherine Swynford, who at a later period became
-the Duke's third wife. However this may be, the Savoy was at that
-time the favourite resort of the nobility of England, and John of
-Gaunt's hospitality was unbounded. Stow, in his _Chronicle_, declares
-"there was none other house in the realm to be compared for beauty and
-stateliness." Yet how very transitory is earthly glory, all the pride
-of place and power!
-
-In the terrible rebellion of Wat Tyler, in the year 1381, the Savoy
-was pillaged and burnt, and the Duke was compelled to flee for his
-life to the northern parts of Great Britain. His Grace had become very
-unpopular on account of the constant protection he had extended to the
-simple followers of Wickcliffe.
-
-After this dire destruction the Savoy was never restored to its former
-palatial proportions. The whole property passed to the Crown, and King
-Henry VII. rebuilt it, and by his will endowed it in a liberal manner
-as a hospital in honour of St. John the Baptist. This hospital was
-suppressed at the Reformation under Edward VI., most of the estates
-with which it was endowed passing to the great City Hospital of St.
-Thomas. But Queen Mary refounded the hospital as an almshouse with
-a master and other officers, and this latter foundation was finally
-dissolved in 1762.
-
-Over the gate, now long destroyed, of King Henry VII.'s foundation were
-these words:--
-
- "Hospitium hoc inopi turbe Savoia vocatum
- Septimus Henricus solo fundavit ab imo."
-
-[Illustration: THE HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT.]
-
-The church, which is the only existing remnant of former splendour,
-was built as the chapel of Henry VII.'s Hospital, and is an
-interesting example of Perpendicular architecture, with a curious and
-picturesque belfry. In general design it resembles a college chapel,
-and the religious services held therein are well maintained. Her late
-Majesty Queen Victoria behaved with great generosity to the church of
-the Savoy. In her capacity of Duchess of Lancaster she restored the
-interior woodwork and fittings, and after a destructive fire in 1864
-effected a second restoration of the entire interior of this sacred
-edifice. There is now a rich coloured roof, and appropriate seats for
-clergy and people. There is also preserved a brass belonging to the
-year 1522 from the grave of Thomas Halsey, Bishop of Leighlin, and
-Gavin Douglas, Bishop of Dunkeld, famous in Scottish history for his
-piety and learning. There is also a small figure from Lady Dalhousie's
-monument, but all the other tombs perished in the flames in 1864. The
-history of the central compartment of the triptych over the font is
-curious. It was painted for the Savoy Palace in the fourteenth century,
-afterwards lost, and then recovered in 1876.
-
-Amongst the famous ministers of the Savoy were Thomas Fuller, author of
-the _Worthies_, and Anthony Horneck. In the Savoy was held the famous
-conference between twelve bishops and twelve Nonconformists for the
-revision of the Liturgy soon after the accession of King Charles II. In
-this conference Richard Baxter took a prominent part.
-
-In this brief sketch nothing is more remarkable than the great variety
-of uses to which the palace of the Savoy has been put, as well as the
-gradual decay of mediæval splendour. Still, however, the name is very
-familiar to the multitudes of people who are continually passing up and
-down the Strand. Yet it is a far cry to the days of Archbishop Boniface
-of Savoy, and Edmund Earl of Lancaster.
-
-_Bridewell_ is situated on a low-lying strip of land between the Thames
-and the Fleet, just westwards of the south-western end of the Roman
-wall of London. In early days this open space only possessed a tower
-for defensive purposes, just as the famous Tower of London guarded the
-eastern end of the city. Hard by was the church of St. Bride, founded
-in the days of the Danes, most likely in the reign of King Canute, and
-here there was a holy well or spring. Hence arose the name of Bridewell.
-
-In 1087, ancient records relate, King William gave choice stones from
-his tower or castle, standing at the west end of the city, to Maurice,
-Bishop of London, for the repair of his cathedral church.
-
-From time to time various rooms were added to the original structure,
-which seem chiefly to have been used for some state ceremonial or
-judicial purpose. Thus in the seventh year of King John, Walter de
-Crisping, the Justiciar, gave judgment here in an important lawsuit.
-
-In 1522 the whole building was repaired for the reception of the famous
-Emperor Charles V., but that distinguished Sovereign actually stayed in
-the Black Friars, on the other side of the Fleet.
-
-King Henry VIII. made use of Bridewell for the trial of his famous
-divorce case. Cardinal Campeggio was President of the Court, and in the
-end gave judgment in favour of Queen Catharine of Aragon. Yet, despite
-the Cardinal, Henry would have nothing more to do with Catharine, and
-at the same time took a dislike to Bridewell, which was allowed to fall
-into decay--in fact, nothing of the older building now remains. King
-Edward VI., just before his own death in 1553, granted the charter
-which converted Bridewell into a charitable institution, and after many
-vicissitudes a great work is still carried on at this establishment for
-the benefit of the poor of London. In May, 1552, Dr. Ridley, Bishop
-of London, wrote this striking letter to Sir William Cecil, Knight, and
-Secretary to the King:--
-
- "Good Master Cecyl,--I must be suitor with you in our Master
- Christ's cause. I beseech you be good unto him. The matter is,
- Sir, that he hath been too, too long abroad, without lodging,
- in the streets of London, both hungry, naked and cold. There
- is a large wide empty house of the King's Majesty called
- Bridewell, which would wonderfully serve to lodge Christ in,
- if he might find friends at Court to procure in his cause."
-
-Thus the philanthropic scheme was started, and brought to completion
-under the mayoralty of Alderman Sir George Barnes.
-
-[Illustration: A VIEW OF THE SAVOY PALACE FROM THE RIVER THAMES.
-
-_Published by the Society of Antiquaries in 1750, from a plan by G.
-Virtue._
-
-AAA The great building, now a barracks.
-
-BB Prison for the Savoy, and guards.
-
-CCC Church of St. Mary le Savoy.
-
-D Stairs to the waterside.
-
-EFG Churches of German Lutherans, French and German Calvinists.]
-
-_St. James's_ is the most important royal palace of London. For many a
-long year it has been most closely associated with our royal family,
-and the quaint towers and gateway looking up St. James's Street possess
-an antiquarian interest of quite an unique character. This palace,
-moreover, enshrines the memory of a greater number of famous events in
-the history of our land than any other domestic building situated in
-London, and for this reason is worthy of special attention.
-
-Its history is as follows:--Before the Norman Conquest there was a
-hospital here dedicated to St. James, for fourteen maiden lepers.
-A hospital continued to exist throughout the middle ages, but when
-Henry VIII. became King he obtained this property by an exchange, and
-converted it, as Holinshed bears witness, into "a fair mansion and
-park" when he was married to Anne Boleyn. The letters "H. A." can still
-be traced on the chimney-piece of the presence chamber or tapestry
-room, as well as a few other memorials of those distant days. And what
-days they were! Queen Anne Boleyn going to St. James's in all the
-joyous splendour of a royal bride, and how soon afterwards meeting her
-cruel fate at the hands of the executioner! Henry VIII. seldom lived at
-St. James's Palace, perhaps on account of the weird reminiscences of
-Anne Boleyn, but it became the favourite residence of Queen Mary after
-her husband Philip II. returned to Spain, and here she died in utter
-isolation during the dull November days of the autumn of 1558. Thus the
-old palace is first associated with the sad story of two unhappy queens!
-
-But brighter days were coming. Prince Henry, the eldest son of James
-I., settled here in 1610, and kept a brilliant and magnificent court,
-attached to which were nearly 300 salaried officials. Then in two
-short years he died, November 6, 1612. Then the palace was given to
-Charles, who afterwards ascended the throne in 1625, and much liked
-the place as a residence. It is closely associated with the stirring
-events of this romantic monarch's career. Here Charles II., James II.,
-and the Princess Elizabeth were born, and here Marie de Medici, the
-mother of Queen Henrietta Maria, took refuge in 1638, and maintained a
-magnificent household for three years. It is said her pension amounted
-to £3,000 a month! Her residence within the royal palace increased the
-unpopularity of the King, whose arbitrary treatment of Parliament led
-to the ruinous Civil War. The noble House of Stuart is ever unfortunate
-all down the long page of history, and the doleful prognostications of
-the Sortes Vergilianæ, sought for by the King, proved but too true in
-the event.
-
-We quote six lines of Dryden's translation from the sixth book of the
-_Æneid_, at the page at which the King by chance opened the book--
-
- "Seek not to know, the ghost replied with tears,
- The sorrows of thy sons in future years.
- This youth, the blissful vision of a day,
- Shall just be shewn on earth, and snatched away.
-
- . . . . .
-
- "Ah! couldst thou break through Fate's severe decree,
- A new Marcellus shall arise in thee."
-
-Dr. Wellwood says Lord Falkland tried to laugh the matter off, but the
-King was pensive.
-
-[Illustration: PORTION OF AN EXACT SURVEY OF THE STREETS, LANES, AND
-CHURCHES.
-
-_Comprehended by the order and directions of the Right Honourable the
-Lord Mayor 10th December, 1666._]
-
-The fortunes of war were against this very attractive but weak monarch,
-who was actually brought as a prisoner of the Parliament from Windsor
-Castle to his own Palace of St. James, there to await his trial on a
-charge of high treason in Westminster Hall!
-
-Certain of his own subjects presumed to pass sentence of death upon
-their own Sovereign, and have become known to history as the regicides.
-Very pathetic is the story of the scenes which took place at St.
-James's on Sunday, January 28, 1649. A strong guard of parliamentary
-troops escorted King Charles from Whitehall to St. James's, and Juxon,
-the faithful Bishop of London, preached his last sermon to his beloved
-Sovereign from the words, "In the day when God shall judge the secrets
-of men by Jesus Christ, according to my Gospel." His Majesty then
-received the Sacrament, and spent much time in private devotion. On the
-morrow he bade farewell to his dear children the Duke of Gloucester and
-the Princess Elizabeth, praying them to forgive his enemies, and not to
-grieve, for he was about to die a glorious death for the maintenance of
-the laws and liberties of the land and the true Protestant religion.
-Then he took the little Duke of Gloucester on his knees, saying,
-"Sweetheart, now they will cut off thy father's head," and the young
-prince looked very earnestly and steadfastly at the King, who bade him
-be loyal to his brothers Charles and James, and all the ancient family
-of Stuart. And thus they parted.
-
-Afterwards His Majesty was taken from St. James's to the scaffold at
-Whitehall. There was enacted the most tragic scene connected with the
-entire history of the Royal Family of England. At the hands of Jacobite
-writers the highly-coloured narrative is like to induce tears of grief,
-but the Puritans love to dwell on the King's weaknesses and faults.
-Yet everyone must needs acknowledge the calm nobility and unwavering
-courage of the King's bearing and conduct.
-
- "He nothing common did or mean
- Upon that memorable scene,
- But with his keener eye
- The axe's edge did try;
- Nor called the gods with vulgar spite
- To vindicate his helpless right,
- But bowed his comely head
- Down, as upon a bed."
-
-The great German historian Leopold von Ranke is rightly regarded as
-the best and most impartial authority on the history of Europe in the
-seventeenth century. This is what he says on the martyrdom of Charles
-I.:--
-
- "The scaffold was erected on the spot where the kings were
- wont to show themselves to the people after their coronation.
- Standing beside the block at which he was to die, he was
- allowed once more to speak in public. He said that the war
- and its horrors were unjustly laid to his charge.... If at
- last he had been willing to give way to arbitrary power, and
- the change of the laws by the sword, he would not have been
- in this position: he was dying as the martyr of the people,
- passing from a perishable kingdom to an imperishable. He died
- in the faith of the Church of England, as he had received it
- from his father. Then bending to the block, he himself gave
- the sign for the axe to fall upon his neck. A moment, and the
- severed head was shown to the people, with the words: 'This
- is the head of a traitor.' All public places, the crossings
- of the streets, especially the entrances of the city, were
- occupied by soldiery on foot and on horseback. An incalculable
- multitude had, however, streamed to the spot. Of the King's
- words they heard nothing, but they were aware of their purport
- through the cautious and guarded yet positive language of
- their preachers. When they saw the severed head, they broke
- into a cry, universal and involuntary, in which the feelings
- of guilt and weakness were blended with terror--a sort of
- voice of nature, whose terrible impression those who heard it
- were never able to shake off."
-
-These weighty words of Ranke are well worth quoting, as well as the
-conclusion of the section of his great book in which he sums up his
-estimate of Charles's claim to the title of martyr:
-
- "There was certainly something of a martyr in him, if the man
- can be so called who values his own life less than the cause
- for which he is fighting, and in perishing himself saves it
- for the future."
-
-[Illustration: THE PROSPECT OF BRIDEWELL.
-
-_Published according to Act of Parliament, 1755, for Stow's Survey._]
-
-King Charles I., then, is fairly entitled to be called a martyr in the
-calm and unimpassioned judgment of the greatest historian of modern
-times in the learned Empire of Germany, who tests the royal claim
-by a clear and concise definition, framed without any regard to the
-passionate political feeling which distracted England in the days of
-the Stuarts.
-
-And it was in the Palace of St. James that Charles I. passed the last
-terrible days of his earthly life.
-
-On the Restoration, King Charles II. resided at Whitehall, and gave
-St. James's to his brother James, Duke of York. Here Queen Mary II.
-was born, and here she was married to William of Orange late in the
-evening on November 4, 1677. Here also Anne Hyde, Duchess of York, died
-in 1671, having lived many years more or less in seclusion in the old
-palace.
-
-James afterwards married Mary of Modena as his second wife, and here
-was born, on June 10, 1688, Prince James Edward, better known as the
-Old Pretender, whose long life was spent in wandering and exile, in
-futile attempts to gain the Crown, in unsuccessful schemes and ruinous
-plots, until he and his children found rest within the peaceful walls
-of Rome.
-
-Directly after he landed in England, King William III. came to St.
-James's, and resided here from time to time during his possession of
-the Crown, only towards the end of his reign allowing the Princess
-Anne to reside in this palace, where she first heard of King William's
-death. The bearer of the sad news was Dr. Burnet, Bishop of Salisbury.
-
-Immediately on his arrival in England, George I., Elector of Hanover,
-came straight to St. James's just as King William III. had done. In his
-_Reminiscences_, Walpole gives this quaint anecdote:--
-
- "This is a strange country," remarked the King. "The first
- morning after my arrival at St. James's, I looked out of the
- window, and saw a park with walks and a canal, which they told
- me were mine. The next day Lord Chetwynd, the ranger of my
- park, sent me a fine brace of carp out of my canal: and I was
- told I must give five guineas to Lord Chetwynd's servant for
- bringing me my own carp, out of my own canal, in my own park."
-
-Many things seem to have surprised King George I. in his English
-dominions, and he really preferred Hanover, where he died in 1725.
-
-George II. resided at St. James's when Prince of Wales, and here his
-beloved wife, Queen Caroline of Anspach, died on November 20, 1737.
-Four years previously her daughter Anne had here been married to the
-Prince of Orange. It now became customary to assign apartments to
-younger children of the Sovereign in various parts of the palace, which
-thus practically ceased to be in the King's own occupation. The state
-apartments are handsome, and contain many good portraits of royal
-personages. The Chapel Royal has a fine ceiling, carved and painted,
-erected in 1540, and is constantly used by royalty. George III. hardly
-ever missed the Sunday services when in London.
-
-Of course the original palace covered more ground than is now the
-case, and included the site of Marlborough House and some adjacent
-gardens, now in private ownership. The German Chapel Royal, which now
-projects into the grounds of Marlborough House, was originally erected
-by Charles I. for the celebration of Roman Catholic worship for Queen
-Henrietta Maria, and at the time gave great offence to all the nobility
-and people of the land.
-
-"Tempora mutantur, et nos mutamur in illis." Marlborough House was
-originally built by Sir Christopher Wren for the great Duke of
-Marlborough, on a portion of St. James's Park given by Queen Anne for
-that purpose. Here died the Duke, and his famous Duchess Sarah. The
-house was bought by the Crown for the Princess Charlotte in 1817, and
-was settled on the Prince of Wales in 1850. There are still a number of
-interesting pictures in the grand salon of the victories of the Duke of
-Marlborough by Laguerre. The garden covers the space formerly occupied
-by the Great Yard of old St. James's Palace.
-
-Altogether, it is quite clear from the above brief account that St.
-James's is the most important of the royal palaces of London, and more
-closely connected than any other with the long history of English
-Royalty. From the days of Henry VIII. to the present time there has
-always been a close personal connection with the reigning Sovereign of
-the British Empire.
-
-The Palace of _Whitehall_ presents a long and strange history. Hubert
-de Burgh, Earl of Kent, Chief Minister of King Henry III., became
-possessed of the land by purchase from the monks of Westminster for
-140 marks of silver and the annual tribute of a wax taper. Hubert
-bequeathed the property by his will to the Black Friars of Holborn, who
-sold it in 1248 to Walter de Grey, Archbishop of York, for his Grace's
-town residence.
-
-When Cardinal Wolsey became possessed of the northern archiepiscopal
-See, he found York House too small for his taste, and he set to work
-to rebuild the greater part of this palace on a larger and more
-magnificent scale. On the completion of the works he took up his
-abode here with a household of 800 persons, and lived with more than
-regal splendour, from time to time entertaining the King himself to
-gorgeous banquets, followed by masked balls. At one of these grand
-entertainments they say King Henry first met Anne Boleyn. A chronicler
-says the Cardinal was "sweet as summer to all that sought him."
-
-When the great Cardinal fell into disgrace, and the Duke of Suffolk
-came to Whitehall to bid him resign the Great Seal of England, his
-Eminence left his palace by the privy stair and "took barge" to Putney,
-and thence to Esher; and Henry VIII. at once took possession of the
-vacant property, and began to erect new buildings, a vast courtyard,
-tennis court, and picture gallery, and two great gateways, all of which
-are now totally destroyed. It was in this palace that he died, January
-28, 1547.
-
-During the reign of Queen Elizabeth, Whitehall was famous for its
-magnificent festivities, tournaments, and receptions of distinguished
-foreign princes. Especially was this the case in 1581, when the French
-commissioners came to urge the Queen's marriage with the Duke of
-Anjou. Here the Queen's corpse lay in state before the interment in
-March, 1603. James I. likewise entertained right royally at Whitehall,
-and here the Princess Elizabeth was married to the Elector Palatine
-on February 14, 1613. King James also employed that distinguished
-architect Inigo Jones to build the beautiful Banqueting House, which
-is all that now remains of Whitehall Palace, and is one of the finest
-architectural fragments in London. The proportions are most elegant,
-and the style perfect. Used as a chapel till 1890, it is now the United
-Service Museum, while the great painter Rubens decorated the ceiling
-for Charles I. in 1635.
-
-The whole plan of Inigo Jones remained unfinished, but Charles I. lived
-in regal splendour in the palace, entertaining on the most liberal
-scale, and forming the famous collection of pictures dispersed by the
-Parliament. Here it was that the masque of Comus was acted before the
-King, and other masques from time to time. After Charles's martyrdom,
-Oliver Cromwell came to live at Whitehall, and died there September 3,
-1658. On his restoration, in May, 1660, King Charles II. returned to
-Whitehall, and kept his court there in great splendour. Balls rather
-than masques were now the fashion, and Pepys and Evelyn have preserved
-full descriptions of these elegant and luxurious festivities, and all
-the gaiety, frivolity, and dissoluteness connected with them, and
-the manner of life at Charles's court. The King died in the palace
-on February 6, 1685, and was succeeded by his austere brother James,
-who, during his brief reign, set up a Roman Catholic chapel within the
-precincts of the royal habitation, from which he fled to France in 1688.
-
-[Illustration: THE PALACE OF WHITEHALL.]
-
-King William III. preferred other places of residence, and two
-fires--one in 1691, the other in 1698--destroyed the greater part of
-Whitehall, which was never rebuilt.
-
-_Buckingham_ Palace is now the principal residence in London of His
-Majesty King Edward VII. Though a fine pile of building it is hardly
-worthy of its position as the town residence of the mighty Sovereign of
-the greatest Empire of the world, situated in the largest city on the
-face of the globe.
-
-King George III. purchased Buckingham Palace in 1761 from Sir Charles
-Sheffield for £21,000, and in 1775 it was settled upon Queen Charlotte.
-In the reign of George IV. it was rebuilt from designs by Nash; and in
-1846, during the reign of Queen Victoria, the imposing eastern façade
-was erected from designs by Blore. The length is 360 feet, and the
-general effect is striking, though the architectural details are of
-little merit. In fact, it is a discredit to the nation that there is no
-London palace for the Sovereign which is worthy of comparison with the
-Royal Palace at Madrid, or the Papal Palace in Rome, though the reason
-for this peculiar fact is fully set forth in the historical sketch of
-the royal palaces already given. King Edward VII. was born here in
-1841, and here drawing-rooms and levées are usually held. The white
-marble staircase is fine, and there are glorious portraits of Charles
-I. and Queen Henrietta Maria by Van Dyck, as well as Queen Victoria
-and the Prince Consort by Winterhalter. There is also a full-length
-portrait of George IV. by Lawrence in the State dining-room.
-
-In the private apartments there are many interesting royal portraits,
-as well as a collection of presents from foreign princes. There is a
-lake of five acres in the gardens, and the whole estate comprises about
-fifty acres. There is a curious pavilion adorned with cleverly-painted
-scenes from Comus by famous English artists. The view from the east
-over St. James's Park towards the India Office is picturesque, and
-remarkably countrified for the heart of a great city. The lake in
-this park is certainly very pretty, and well stocked with various
-water-fowl. The Horse Guards, Admiralty, and other public offices at
-the eastern extremity of this park occupy the old site of the western
-side of the Palace of Whitehall.
-
-_Kensington_ Palace was the favourite abode of King William III. He
-purchased the property from the Earl of Nottingham, whose father had
-been Lord Chancellor, and employed Sir Christopher Wren to add a storey
-to the old house, and built anew the present south façade. Throughout
-his reign he spent much money in improving the place, and here his
-wife, Queen Mary II., died on December 28, 1694. In the same palace
-King William himself breathed his last breath on March 8, 1702.
-
-Queen Anne lived principally at St. James's, the natural residence for
-the Sovereigns of Great Britain; but she took much interest in the
-proper upkeep of Kensington, and it was here that her husband died on
-October 20, 1708, and herself on August 1, 1714. Shortly before, she
-had placed the treasurer's wand in the hands of the Duke of Shrewsbury,
-saying, "For God's sake use it for the good of my people," and all the
-acts of her prosperous reign point to the real validity of the popular
-title given by common consent--the good Queen Anne.
-
-She planted the trees on "Queen Anne's Mount," and gave gorgeous fêtes
-in the Royal Gardens, whose woodland scenery possesses a peculiar
-charm all its own. The noble groves and avenues of elm trees recall
-St. Cloud and St. Germain in the neighbourhood of Paris, and are quite
-exceptionally fine. Thus Matthew Arnold wrote:--
-
- "In this lone open glade I lie,
- Screened by deep boughs on either hand;
- And at its end, to stay the eye,
- Those black crowned, red-boled pine trees stand."
-
-[Illustration: ST. JAMES'S PALACE.]
-
-And Chateaubriand declares:--
-
- "C'est dans ce parc de Kensington que j'ai médité l'Essai
- historique: que, relisant le journal de mes courses d'outre
- mer, j'en ai tiré les amours d'Atala."
-
-And Haydon says:--
-
- "Here are some of the most poetical bits of tree and stump,
- and sunny brown and green glens and tawny earth."
-
-George II. died here very suddenly on October 25, 1760, but the
-Sovereigns of the House of Hanover chiefly made use of the place
-by assigning apartments therein to their younger children and near
-relatives. Here it was that Edward Duke of Kent lived with his wife
-Victoria of Saxe-Coburg, and here their only daughter, the renowned
-Queen Victoria, was born, May 24, 1819, and here she resided till her
-accession to the throne in 1837.
-
-Kensington Palace, then, is chiefly celebrated for its associations
-with William III. and Queen Victoria. In the brief account of the royal
-palaces here given, it will be seen that none of the sites, with the
-exception of St. James's, remained for any long period of time the
-actual residence of the Sovereign, while three--Westminster, Bridewell,
-and the Savoy--had passed out of royal hands for residential purposes
-before the Reformation of religion was completed. Another curious fact
-relates to the origin of the title to these sites, inasmuch as three of
-these estates were obtained from some ecclesiastical corporation, as
-the Archbishop of York, or the Hospital of St. James, though Buckingham
-Palace was bought from Sir Charles Sheffield, and Kensington from the
-Earl of Nottingham.
-
-No account of the palaces of London can be regarded as complete which
-omits to mention Lambeth. For more than 700 years the Archbishops of
-Canterbury have resided at this beautiful abode, intensely interesting
-from its close association with all the most stirring events in the
-long history of England. The estate was obtained by Archbishop Baldwin
-in the year 1197 by exchange for some lands in Kent with Glanville,
-Bishop of Rochester. In Saxon times Goda, the sister of King Edward the
-Confessor, had bestowed this property upon the Bishopric of Rochester;
-so that it has been continuously in the hands of the Church for near
-900 years. The fine red-brick gateway with white stone dressings,
-standing close to the tower of Lambeth Church, is very imposing as
-seen from the road, and was built by Archbishop Cardinal Moreton in
-1490. In the Middle Ages it was the custom to give a farthing loaf
-twice a week to the poor of London at this gateway, and as many as
-4,000 were accustomed to partake of the archiepiscopal gift. Within
-the gateway is the outer courtyard of the palace, and at the further
-end, towards the river Thames, rises the picturesque Lollard's tower,
-built between 1434 and 1445 by that famous ecclesiastical statesman
-Archbishop Chicheley, founder of All Souls' College, Oxford. The quaint
-winding staircase, made of rough slabs of unplaned oak, is exactly
-as it was in Chicheley's time. In this tower is the famous chamber,
-entirely of oaken boards, called the Lollards' prison. It is 13 feet
-long, 12 feet broad, and 8 feet high, and eight iron rings remain to
-which prisoners were fastened. The door has a lock of wood, fastened
-with pegs of wood, and may be a relic of the older palace of Archbishop
-Sudbury. On the south side of the outer court stands the hall built by
-Archbishop Juxon during the opening years of Charles II.'s reign, with
-a fine timber roof, and Juxon's arms over the door leading into the
-palace. This Jacobean hall is now used as the library, and contains
-many precious manuscripts of priceless value, including the _Dictyes
-and Sayings of the Philosophers_, translated by Lord Rivers, in which
-is found a miniature illumination of the Earl presenting Caxton on his
-knees to Edward IV., who is supported by Elizabeth Woodville and her
-son Edward V. This manuscript contains the only known portrait of the
-latter monarch.
-
-[Illustration: ST. JAMES'S PALACE, FROM PALL MALL AND FROM THE PARK.]
-
-An earlier hall had been built on the same site by Archbishop Boniface
-in 1244.
-
-From the library we pass by a flight of stairs to the guard room, now
-used as the dining hall. The chief feature is the excellent series of
-oil portraits of the occupants of the primatial See of Canterbury,
-beginning in the year 1504. The mere mention of the principal names
-recalls prominent events in our national history.
-
-There is Warham painted by Holbein. He was also Lord Chancellor, and
-the last of the mediæval episcopate. There is Cranmer, burnt at Oxford,
-March 21, 1555. There is Cardinal Pole, the cousin and favourite of
-Queen Mary. There is Matthew Parker, the friend of Queen Elizabeth,
-well skilled in learning and a great collector of manuscripts, now for
-the most part in the library of Corpus Christi College, Cambridge.
-There is William Laud, painted by Van Dyck, the favourite Counsellor
-and Adviser of Charles I. At the age of 71 he was beheaded by order of
-the House of Commons--an act of vengeance, not of justice. There is
-William Juxon, who stood by Charles I. on the scaffold, and heard the
-ill-fated King utter his last word on earth, "Remember." But we cannot
-even briefly recount all the famous portraits to be found at Lambeth.
-The above selection must suffice.
-
-The chapel, also, is a building of singular interest. Beneath is
-an ancient crypt said to have been erected by Archbishop Herbert
-Fitzwalter, while the chapel itself was built by Archbishop Boniface
-of Savoy between 1249 and 1270. The lancet windows are elegant, and
-were filled with stained glass by Archbishop Laud, all of which was
-duly broken to pieces during the Commonwealth. The supposed Popish
-character of this glass was made an article of impeachment against Laud
-at the trial at which he was sentenced to death. Here the majority of
-the archbishops have been consecrated since the reign of King Henry
-III. Archbishop Parker was both consecrated and also buried in the
-chapel, but his tomb was desecrated and his bones scattered by Scot
-and Hardyng, who possessed the palace under Oliver Cromwell. On the
-restoration they were re-interred by Sir William Dugdale. At the west
-end is a beautiful Gothic confessional, high up on the wall, erected
-by Archbishop Chicheley. Archbishop Laud presented the screen, and
-Archbishop Tait restored the whole of this sacred edifice, which
-measures 12 feet by 25 feet. Formerly the archbishops lived in great
-state. Thus, Cranmer's household comprised a treasurer, comptroller,
-steward, garnator, clerk of the kitchen, caterer, clerk of the spicery,
-yeoman of the ewery, bakers, pantlers, yeoman of the horse, yeoman
-ushers, besides numerous other less important officials.
-
-Cardinal Pole possessed a patent from Queen Mary, authorising a
-household of 100 servants. The modern part of the palace was built by
-Archbishop Howley in the Tudor style. He held the See from 1828 to
-1848, and was the last prelate to maintain the archiepiscopal state of
-the olden time.
-
-
-
-
-ELIZABETHAN LONDON
-
-BY T. FAIRMAN ORDISH, F.S.A.
-
-
-The leading feature of Elizabethan London was that it was a great port.
-William Camden, writing in his _Britannia_, remarked that the Thames,
-by its safe and deep channel, was able to entertain the greatest
-ships in existence, daily bringing in so great riches from all parts
-"that it striveth at this day with the Mart-townes of Christendome
-for the second prise, and affoordeth a most sure and beautiful Roade
-for shipping" (Holland's translation). Below the great bridge, one of
-the wonders of Europe, we see this shipping crowding the river in the
-maps and views of London belonging to the reign of Queen Elizabeth.
-The Tower and the bridge were the city's defences against attack by
-water. Near the Tower was the Custom House, where peaceful commerce
-paid its dues; and between the Custom House and the bridge was the
-great wharf of Billingsgate, where goods were landed for distribution.
-Near the centre of the bridge was a drawbridge, which admitted vessels
-to another great wharf, Queenhithe, at a point midway between London
-Bridge and Blackfriars. Between the bridge and Queenhithe was the
-Steelyard, the domain of the merchants of the Hanseatic League. Along
-the river front were numerous other wharves, where barges and lighters
-unloaded goods which they brought from the ships in the road, or from
-the upper reaches of the Thames. For the river was the great highway
-of London. It answered the needs of commerce, and it furnished the
-chief means of transit. The passenger traffic of Elizabethan London was
-carried on principally by means of rowing-boats. A passenger landed at
-the point nearest to his destination, and then walked; or a servant
-waited for him with a saddle-horse. The streets were too narrow for
-coaches, except in two or three main arteries.
-
-The characteristic of present-day London, at which all foreigners
-most marvel, is the amount of traffic in the streets. In Elizabethan
-London this characteristic existed in the chief highway--the Thames.
-The passenger-boats were generally described as "wherries," and they
-were likened by Elizabethan travellers to the gondolas of Venice; for
-instance, by Coryat, in his _Crudities_, who thought the playhouses
-of Venice very beggarly compared with those of London, but admired
-the gondoliers, because they were "altogether as swift as our rowers
-about London." The maps of the period reveal the extraordinary number
-of "stairs" for landing passengers along both banks of the river,
-besides the numerous wharves for goods. John Stow, the author of the
-_Survey of London_, published first in 1598, and again in a second
-edition in 1603, describes the traffic on the river. "By the Thames,"
-he says, "all kinds of merchandise be easily conveyed to London, the
-principal storehouse and staple of all commodities within this realm.
-So that, omitting to speak of great ships and other vessels of burthen,
-there pertaineth to the cities of London, Westminster, and borough of
-Southwark, above the number, as is supposed, of 2,000 wherries and
-other small boats, whereby 3,000 poor men at the least be set on work
-and maintained." Many of these watermen were old sailors, who had
-sailed and fought under Drake. The Armada deliverance was recalled
-by Drake's ship, which lay in the river below the bridge. The voyage
-of the Earl of Essex to Spain, the expeditions to Ireland and to the
-Low Countries, formed the staple of the gossip of these old sailors
-who found employment in the chief means of locomotion in Elizabethan
-London.
-
-There was only the single bridge, but there were several ferries.
-The principal ferry was from Blackfriars and the Fleet river to a
-point opposite on the Surrey side, called Paris Garden stairs--nearly
-in a line with the present Blackfriars Bridge. At Westminster was
-another, from the Horseferry Road to a point a little west of Lambeth
-Palace--almost in the line of the present Lambeth Bridge. The river was
-fordable at low tide at this point; horses crossed here--whence the
-name Horseferry--and possibly other cattle, when the tide was unusually
-low.
-
-The sea is the home of piety. Coast towns, ports, and havens, reached
-after voyages of peril, are invariably notable for their places of
-worship, and for customs which speak touchingly--like the blessing
-of fishermen's nets, for instance--of lives spent in uncertainty and
-danger. Thus, the leading characteristic of Elizabethan London being
-its association with the sea and its dependence on the river, we find
-that its next most striking characteristic was the extraordinary
-number of churches it contained. The great cathedral predominated more
-pronouncedly than its modern successor. From the hill on which it was
-based it reared its vast bulk; its great spire ascended the heavens,
-and the multitude of church towers and spires and belfries throughout
-the city seemed to follow it. The houses were small, the streets were
-narrow; but to envisage the city from the river, or from the Surrey
-side, was to have the eye led upwards from point to point to the summit
-of St. Paul's. The dignity and piety of London were thus expressed,
-in contradiction to human foibles and failings so conspicuous in
-Elizabethan drama. The spire of St. Paul's was destroyed by lightning
-early in the reign of Elizabeth; and the historian may see much
-significance in the fact that it was not rebuilt, even in thanksgiving
-and praise for the deliverance from the Great Armada. The piety of
-London dwindled until it flamed forth anew in the time of the Puritan
-revolt.
-
-The bridge was carried on nineteen arches. It had a defensive gate
-at the Southwark end, and another gateway at the northern end. In
-the centre was a beautiful chapel, dedicated to Thomas à Becket, and
-known as St. Thomas of the Bridge. Houses were built on the bridge,
-mostly shops with overhanging signs, as in the streets of the city.
-Booksellers and haberdashers predominated, but other trades were
-carried on also. After the chapel, the most conspicuous feature of the
-bridge was "Nonesuch House," so called to express the wonder that it
-was constructed in Holland entirely of wood, brought over the water
-piece by piece, and put together on the bridge by dovetailing and pegs,
-without the use of a single metal nail. Adjoining the northern gateway
-was an engine for raising water by means of a great wheel operated by
-the tide. Near the Southwark end were corn-mills, worked on the same
-principle, below the last two arches of the bridge. The gateway at the
-Southwark end, so well shown in Visscher's view of London, was finished
-in 1579, and the traitors' heads, which formerly surmounted a tower
-by the drawbridge, were transferred to it. Travellers from the south
-received this grim salutation as they approached the bridge, which
-led into the city; and when they glanced across the river, the Tower
-frowned upon them, and the Traitors' Gateway, like teeth in an open
-mouth, deepened the effect of warning and menace.
-
-But these terrors loomed darkling in the background for the most
-part. They belonged rather to the time when the sovereign's palaces
-at Westminster and at the Tower seemed to hold London in a grip. The
-palace at Westminster now languished in desuetude; the Tower was a
-State prison, and--with some ironical intent, perhaps--also the abode
-of the royal beasts, lions, tigers, leopards, and other captives.
-The Queen passed in her royal barge down the river with ceremonious
-pageantry from her palace of Whitehall; the drawbridge raised, the
-floating court passed the Tower as with lofty indifference on its way
-to "Placentia," Her Majesty's palace at Greenwich. Out of the silence
-of history a record speaks like a voice, and tells us that here, in
-1594, Shakespeare and his fellows performed at least two comedies or
-interludes before Her Majesty, and we know even the amounts that were
-paid them for their services.
-
-[Illustration: PLAN OF LONDON IN THE TIME OF QUEEN ELIZABETH (1563).]
-
-In the _Survey_ of John Stow we have three separable elements: the
-archæology and history of London, Stow's youthful recollections of
-London in the time of Henry the Eighth, and Stow's description of
-the great change which came over London after the dissolution of the
-religious houses, and continued in process throughout his lifetime.
-The mediæval conditions were not remote. He could remember when London
-was clearly defined by the wall, like a girdle, of which the Tower was
-the knot. No heroic change had befallen; the wall had not been cast
-down into its accompanying fosse to form a ring-street, as was done
-when Vienna was transformed from the mediæval state. London had simply
-filled up the ditch with its refuse; its buildings had simply swarmed
-over the wall and across the dike; shapeless and haphazard suburbs had
-grown up, till the surrounding villages became connected with the city.
-Even more grievous, in the estimation of Stow, was the change which he
-had witnessed within the city itself. The feudal lords had departed,
-and built themselves mansions outside the city. The precincts of the
-dissolved religious establishments had been converted into residential
-quarters, and a large proportion of the old monastic gardens had been
-built upon. The outlines of society had become blurred. Formerly, the
-noble, the priest, and the citizen were the defined social strata.
-Around each of these was grouped the rest of the social units in
-positions of dependence. A new type of denizen had arisen, belonging to
-none of the old categories--the typical Elizabethan Londoner.
-
-The outward aspect of Elizabethan London reflected this social change.
-On the south of the city, along the line of Thames Street, the wall
-had entirely disappeared. On the east and west it was in decay, and
-was becoming absorbed in fresh buildings. Only on the north side of
-the city, where it had been re-edified as late as 1474, did the wall
-suggest its uses for defence. In the map of Agas, executed early in the
-reign of Elizabeth, this portion of the wall, with its defensive towers
-and bastions, appears singularly well preserved. Thus the condition of
-the wall suggested the passing of the old and the coming of the new
-order. The gates which formerly defended the city, where the chief
-roadways pierced the wall, still remained as monuments, and they were
-admirably adapted to the purpose of civic pageantry and ceremonial
-shows. Indeed, the gateway on the Oxford road was rebuilt in 1586, and
-called Newgate, "from the newness thereof," and it was the "fairest"
-of all the gates of London. It is reckoned that this was the year that
-Shakespeare came to London from Stratford-on-Avon; and the assumption
-is generally allowed that he entered the city by Newgate, which
-would be his direct road. A new gate, of an artistic and ornamental
-character, set in the ancient wall, was a sign and a symbol of the new
-conditions in London, of which Shakespeare himself was destined to
-become the chief result.
-
- * * * * *
-
-With the characteristics of London as a great mart and port is included
-the foreign elements in its population. In Lombard Street the merchants
-of Lombardy from early mediæval times had performed the operations
-of banking and foreign exchange; and around them were assembled the
-English merchants of all qualities and degrees. Business was conducted
-in the open street, and merchants merely adjourned into the adjoining
-houses to seal their bonds and make their formal settlements. Henry
-VIII. tried to induce the city to make use of the great building of
-Leadenhall for this purpose; but the innovation was resisted, and
-Lombard Street continued to be the burse of London till long after the
-accession of Elizabeth. The name of Galley Key remained in Tower Street
-ward to mark the spot on the river bank "where the galleys of Italy
-and other parts did discharge their wines and merchandises brought to
-this city." The men of the galleys lived as a colony by themselves
-in Mincing Lane; the street leading to their purlieus was called,
-indifferently, Galley Row and Petit Wales. Here was a great house, the
-official territorium of the Principality. The original of Shakespeare's
-"Fluellen" may very possibly have been a denizen of this quarter.
-
-Above the bridge, in Thames Street, was the territorium of the Hanse
-merchants, alluded to by Stow as "the merchants of Almaine," and by
-Camden as "the Easterlings or Dutch merchants of the Steelyard."
-Their position in the city was one of great importance: the export
-trade of the country in woollen goods was chiefly in their hands,
-and they had their own Guildhall in Upper Thames Street, called the
-_Gilda Teutonicorum_. The special privileges accorded to this foreign
-commercial community carried the obligation to maintain Bishopsgate in
-repair, and "to defend it at all times of danger and extremity." When
-the house of the Augustine Friars, Old Broad Street, was dissolved,
-and its extensive gardens became cut up and built upon, the Dutch
-colony settled there in residence, and the church of Austin Friars was
-specially assigned to them by Edward VI. Towards the end of the reign
-of Elizabeth the privileges of the Hanse merchants were revoked, and
-their guildhall was confiscated to the use of the navy. But the Dutch
-element continued as a part of the commercial life of the city, and the
-church of Austin Friars is still the "church of the Dutch nation in
-London."
-
-West of the Steelyard was the Vintry. Here the merchants of Bordeaux
-had been licensed to build their warehouses of stone, at the rear of a
-great wharf, on which were erected cranes for unloading the lighters
-and other boats which brought the casks from the ships below bridge.
-The trade of these foreign merchants gave the name of Vintry Ward to
-one of the divisions of the city. In Bishopsgate Ward, near the church
-of St. Botolph, was a French colony, their purlieus forming a quadrant,
-called Petty France.
-
-Elizabethan London was more cosmopolitan than many European capitals.
-In Lombard Street the merchants of Germany, France, and Italy were
-conspicuously differentiated by the varieties of costume. On the site
-of the present Royal Exchange, Sir Thomas Gresham laid the first
-stone of his great Bourse in 1566; the design was in imitation of the
-Bourse at Antwerp; the materials of its construction were imported
-from Flanders; the architect and builder was a Fleming, named Henryke.
-The opening of this building by Queen Elizabeth in state in January,
-1571, when Her Majesty commanded it to be proclaimed by herald and
-trumpet that the Bourse should be called The Royal Exchange from that
-time henceforth, is a familiar story, because it is, in fact, one of
-the most striking and significant events in the history of London. The
-trumpet of that herald, on January 23rd, 1571, announced a new era.
-
-The building was a quadrangle, enclosing an open space. The sides
-formed a cloister or sheltered walk; above this was a corridor, or
-walk, called "the pawn," with stalls or shops, like the Burlington
-Arcade of the present day; above this again was a tier of rooms. The
-great bell-tower stood on the Cornhill front; the bell was rung at
-noon and at six in the evening. On the north side, looking towards
-St. Margaret's, Lothbury, was a tall Corinthian column. Both tower
-and column were surmounted by a grasshopper--the Gresham crest. The
-inscription on the façade of the building was in French, German, and
-Italian. The motley scene of Lombard Street had been transferred to the
-Royal Exchange. The merchants of Amsterdam, of Antwerp, of Hamburg,
-of Paris, of Bordeaux, of Venice and Vienna, distinguishable to the
-eye by the dress of the nations they represented, and to the ear by
-the differences of language, conducted their exchanges with English
-merchants, and with each other, in this replica of the Bourse of
-Antwerp, the rialto of Elizabethan London.[1]
-
-Cheapside was called West Cheap in Elizabethan London, in
-contradistinction to East Cheap, famous for ever as the scene of the
-humours of "Dame Quickly" and "Falstaff." The change in West Cheap
-since the mediæval period was chiefly at the eastern end, on the
-north side. Here a large space opposite the church of St. Mary-le-Bow
-was formerly kept clear of building, although booths and stalls
-for market purposes occupied the ground temporarily. The space was
-otherwise reserved for the mediæval jousts, tournaments, and other
-civic pageantry. The site of Mercers' Hall was occupied by the _Militia
-Hospitalis_, called, after Thomas à Becket, St. Thomas of Acon. After
-the Dissolution this establishment was granted by Henry to the Mercers'
-Company, who adapted the existing buildings to the purposes of their
-hall, one of the principal features of Cheap in Elizabethan times. The
-district eastward of Mercers' Hall had become filled up with building,
-and the making of Cheap as a thoroughfare was now complete. The
-original road westward was from the top of New Fish Street, by East
-Cheap, Candlewick or Cannon Street, past London Stone (probably the
-Roman _Milliarium_), along Budge Row and Watling Street, to the site of
-St. Paul's, where it is conjectured a temple of Diana stood in Roman
-times. But Cheap, or West Cheap, was the chief traffic way westward
-in Elizabethan London; it was filled with shops and warehouses, a
-thriving business centre, the pride of the city. The name of "Cheap"
-was derived from the market, and several of the streets leading into
-it yet bear names which in Elizabethan times were descriptive of the
-trades there carried on. Thus the Poultry was the poulterers' market;
-ironmongers had their shops in Ironmonger Lane, as formerly they had
-their stalls in the same area; in Milk Street were the dairies; and
-towards the west end of Cheap was Bread Street, the market of the
-bakers, and Friday Street, where fishmongers predominated. Lying
-between these two streets, with frontages in both, was the Mermaid
-Tavern, the chief resort of "the breed of excellent and choice wits,"
-included by Camden among the glories of Elizabethan London. Stow does
-not refer to the Mermaid by name, but possibly he had it in mind when
-he wrote the following passage: "Bread Street, so called of bread sold
-there, as I said, is now wholly inhabited by rich merchants; and divers
-fair inns be there, for good receipt of carriers and other travellers
-to the city." The trades kept themselves in their special localities,
-although they did not always give the name to the street they occupied.
-Thus, to return to the eastern end of Cheap, there was Bucklersbury,
-where the pepperers or grocers were located, having given up their
-former quarters in Sopars' Lane to the cordwainers and curriers. With
-the grocers were mingled apothecaries and herbalists; and hence the
-protest of Falstaff, in the _Merry Wives of Windsor_, that he was not
-"like a many of these lisping hawthorn-buds, that come like women
-in men's apparel, and smell like Bucklesbury in simple time." In
-the midst of Cheap, at a point between Mercers' Hall and Old Jewry,
-opposite the end of Bucklersbury, was the water conduit--in the words
-of Stow, "The great conduit of sweet water, conveyed by pipes of lead
-underground from Paddington for the service of this city, castellated
-with stone, and cisterned in lead." Around the conduit stood the great
-jars used by the water-carriers to convey the water to the houses. The
-water-carrier, as a type of Elizabethan London, is preserved by Ben
-Jonson in the character of Cob in _Every Man in his Humour_. Going
-westward from the Conduit, another object stood out in the roadway--the
-Standard, a tall pillar at which the public executions of the city
-jurisdiction took place. Still further west, in the midst of Cheap,
-stood the Eleanor Cross, one of the most beautiful monuments in London
-at this time.
-
-The Guildhall stood where it stands to-day, accessible from Cheap by
-Ironmonger Lane and St. Lawrence Lane. Only the walls and the crypt
-of the original building remain; but the features of this great civic
-establishment, as well as its sumptuous character and beautiful
-adornments, were practically the same in the days of Gresham as at
-the present time. Stow describes the stately porch entering the great
-hall, the paving of Purbeck marble, the coloured glass windows, and,
-alas! the library which had been "borrowed" by the Protector Somerset
-in the preceding reign. Near the Guildhall was the church of St.
-Mary Aldermanbury, the predecessor of the existing edifice. In this
-parish dwelt Hemmings and Condell, "fellows" of Shakespeare--that is
-to say, players of his company, whom he remembered in his will. These
-men conferred a benefit on all future ages by collecting the poet's
-plays, seven years after his death, and publishing them in that folio
-edition which is one of the most treasured volumes in the world. In
-the churchyard a monument to their memory was erected in 1896. It is
-surmounted by a bust of the poet, who looks forth serenely greeting the
-passer-by from beneath the shade of trees in this quiet old churchyard
-in modern London.
-
-To return to Cheap, it remains to speak of a feature which attracted
-Queen Elizabeth, and was, indeed, one of the marvels of London. Here
-are the _ipsissima verba_ of Stow's contemporary description:
-
- "Next to be noted, the most beautiful frame of fair houses
- and shops that be within the walls of London, or elsewhere in
- England, commonly called Goldsmiths' Row, betwixt Bread Street
- end and the cross in Cheap ... the same was built by Thomas
- Wood, goldsmith, one of the sheriffs of London, in the year
- 1491. It containeth in number ten fair dwelling-houses and
- fourteen shops, all in one frame, uniformly built four stories
- high, beautified towards the street with the Goldsmiths' arms
- and the likeness of woodmen, in memory of his name, riding on
- monstrous beasts, all which is cast in lead, richly painted
- over and gilt. These he gave to the goldsmiths, with stocks of
- money, to be lent to young men having those shops. This said
- front was again new painted and gilt over in the year 1594;
- Sir Richard Martin being then mayor, and keeping his mayoralty
- in one of them."
-
-Beyond Goldsmiths' Row was the old Change; the name and the street both
-still exist. Beyond old Change were seven shops; then St. Augustine's
-Gate, leading into St. Paul's Churchyard; and then came Paternoster
-Row. Between Paternoster Row and Newgate Street stood the Church of
-St. Michael-le-Querne, stretching out into the middle of Cheap, where
-the statue of Sir Robert Peel now stands. Stretching out from the east
-end of the church, still further into the street, was a water conduit,
-which supplied all the neighbourhood hereabout, called "The Little
-Conduit," not because it was little, but to distinguish it from the
-great conduit at the other end of Cheap.
-
- * * * * *
-
-We are concerned in this place not with the history of old St.
-Paul's, nor with the technique of its architecture, but with the
-great cathedral as a religious and social institution, the centre of
-Elizabethan London. Here the streams of life were gathered, and hence
-they radiated. It was the official place of worship of the Corporation;
-the merchants of the city followed. The monarch on special occasions
-attended the services; the nobility followed the royal example. The
-typical Elizabethan made the middle aisle his promenade, where he
-displayed the finery of his attire and the elegance of his deportment.
-The satirists found a grand opportunity in the humours of Paul's
-Walk; but the effect of the cathedral is not to be derived from such
-allusions in the literature of the time. All classes were attracted by
-the beautiful organ and the anthems so exquisitely sung by the choir.
-The impressive size and noble proportions of the building, the soaring
-height of the nave, the mystery of the open tower, where the ascending
-vision became lost in gathering obscurity, and where the chords from
-the organ died away; these spiritual associations, these appeals to the
-imagination, were uplifting influences so powerful that the vanities of
-Paul's Walk were negligible by comparison. As with the gargoyle on the
-outer walls, the prevailing effect was so sublime, that it was merely
-heightened by this element of the grotesque.[2]
-
-The cathedral stood in the midst of a churchyard. In the mediæval
-period this was enclosed by a wall. In the reign of Elizabeth the
-wall still existed, but, as Stow observes, "Now on both sides, to
-wit, within and without, it be hidden with dwelling-houses." In 1561
-the great steeple was struck by lightning and destroyed by fire, but
-the tower from which the spire arose remained. The tower was 260 feet
-high, and the height of the spire was the same, so that the pinnacle
-was 520 feet from the base.[3] Surmounting the pinnacle, in this
-earlier portion of Elizabeth's reign, was a weathercock, an object of
-curiosity to which Stow devotes a minute description. In the midst of
-the churchyard stood Paul's Cross--"a pulpit cross of timber, mounted
-upon steps of stone and covered with lead, in which are sermons
-preached every Sunday in the forenoon." Many of the monastic features
-of the establishment had disappeared; others were transformed and
-adapted to other uses. The great central fabric remained, and the
-school flourished--"Paul's School," in the east part of the churchyard,
-endowed by Dean Colet in 1512, and rebuilt in the later years of
-Elizabeth, where one hundred and fifty-three poor men's children were
-given a free education under a master, an usher, and a chaplain.
-
- * * * * *
-
-Newgate Street, Cheapside, Cornhill, Leadenhall, and Aldgate formed (as
-they do still) nearly a straight line, east and west. From this line to
-the wall on the north, in Plantagenet and early Tudor times, the city
-was largely composed of open spaces: chiefly the domains of religious
-houses; while south of the dividing line to the river the ground was
-thickly built over. After the Dissolution the transformation of the
-northern area began.
-
-Considerable building took place in the reign of Edward VI.; but at
-the time of Elizabeth's accession the generally open character of this
-area, as compared with the more southerly part of the city, still
-subsisted. The increase of population, however, due very largely to
-people who flocked to London from all parts of the country, led to
-rapid building, which produced the Queen's famous proclamation to
-stay its further progress. To evade the ordinance, and to meet the
-ever-increasing demand, large houses were converted into tenements,
-and a vast number of people were thus accommodated who lived chiefly
-out-of-doors and took their meals in the taverns, inns, and ordinaries
-which abounded in all parts of the city. The pressure of demand
-continued, and the open spaces became gradually built over. The Queen
-and her government, aghast at the incessant tide of increase, in
-terror of the plague, recognised the futility of further prohibition,
-and avoided communication with the city as much as possible. At the
-slightest hint of plague Her Majesty would start off on one of her
-Progresses, or betake herself to Richmond, to Hampton Court, or to
-Greenwich.
-
-Some of these transformations of ancient monastic purlieus may be
-briefly instanced. Within Newgate was the house and precinct of the
-Grey Friars. After the Dissolution the whole precinct was presented by
-Henry to the citizens of London, and here Edward VI. founded the school
-for poor fatherless children, which became famous as Christ's Hospital,
-"the Bluecoat school."
-
-Let a short passage from Stow describe this change from the old order
-to the new:
-
- "In the year 1552 began the repairing of the Greyfriars house
- for the poor fatherless children; and in the month of November
- the children were taken into the same, to the number of almost
- four hundred. On Christmas Day, in the afternoon, while the
- Lord Mayor and Aldermen rode to Paules, the children of
- Christ's Hospital stood from St. Lawrence Lane end in Cheape
- towards Paules, all in one livery of russet cotton, three
- hundred and forty in number; and in Easter next, they were in
- blue at the Spittle, and so have continued ever since."
-
-The Greyfriars or Bluecoat school was one of the largest buildings in
-London. Its demesne extended to the city wall, in which there was a
-gate communicating with the grounds of St. Bartholomew's Hospital, the
-famous foundation of Rahere. The wall ran northward from the New Gate,
-the ground between the school and the wall on that side had been built
-over. There was a continuous line of building along Newgate Street to
-St. Martin's le Grand. The shambles or meat market occupied the centre
-of the street, called St. Nicholas Shambles, from a church which had
-been demolished since the Reformation.
-
-From Newgate Street and the top of Cheapside to St. Anne's Lane was
-formerly the territory of the Collegiate Church and Sanctuary of St.
-Martin's le Grand. The college was dismantled after the edict of
-dissolution, but the sanctuary remained.
-
-Some of the collegiate buildings had been converted into tenements,
-and other houses had been erected. These were occupied by "strangers
-born"--_i.e._, denizens who were not born Londoners--although within
-the walls the civic jurisdiction did not extend over this territory.
-Certain trades were carried on here outside the regulated industry of
-the city--_e.g._, tailoring and lace-making. The district became one
-of the resorts of the Elizabethan ruffler; and under the ægis of the
-ancient right of sanctuary a kind of Alsatia came into existence, the
-scene of many exciting episodes when debtors and fugitives from justice
-evaded their pursuers, and succeeded in reaching these precincts.
-
-In Broad Street the ancient glory of the Augustine Friars was still
-a memory, and much of their spacious domain had been divided into
-gardens. The beautiful church remained, but the spire was becoming
-ruinous from neglect. Stow described the gardens, the gates of the
-precinct, and the great house which had been built here by William
-Paulet, first Marquis of Winchester, Lord Treasurer of England, "in
-place of Augustine friar's house, cloister, gardens, etc." There is an
-admirable irony in the recital of Stow at this point:
-
- "The friars church he pulled not down, but the west end
- thereof, inclosed from the steeple and choir, was in the
- year 1550 granted to the Dutch nation in London, to be their
- preaching place: the other part--namely, the steeple, choir,
- and side aisles to the choir adjoining--he reserved to
- household uses, as for stowage of corn, coal and other things;
- his son and heir, Marquis of Winchester, sold the monuments of
- noblemen there buried in great number, the paving stone and
- whatsoever (which cost many thousands) for one hundred pounds,
- and in place thereof made fair stabling for horses. He caused
- the lead to be taken from the roofs, and laid tile in place
- thereof; which exchange proved not so profitable as he looked
- for, but rather to his disadvantage."
-
-Between Broad Street and Bishopsgate Street the space was chiefly
-composed of gardens. One of the houses fronting Bishopsgate Street
-was the residence of Sir Thomas Gresham (perhaps his house in Lombard
-Street was reserved for business purposes).
-
-On the opposite side of Bishopsgate Street was Crosby Hall and the
-precinct of the dissolved nunnery of St. Helen, extending towards St.
-Mary Axe and the church of St. Andrew Undershaft. At the further end of
-St. Mary Axe was the "Papye," a building which had been a hospital for
-poor priests before the Reformation. In the year 1598 Shakespeare was
-living in the St. Helen's precinct, within the shadow of Crosby Hall,
-and John Stow, in his home near the church of St. Andrew Undershaft,
-had just corrected the proofs of the first edition of his _Survey of
-London_. Stow tells us about Gresham's House and about Crosby Hall. He
-tells us that Sir Francis Walsingham, the Secretary of State, resided
-at the Papye. He describes the church of St. Andrew Undershaft, where
-his own monument may be seen at the present day; he describes, too, the
-ancient church of the nunnery of St. Helen, in which a memorial window
-now commemorates Shakespeare. But he failed to mention the fact, which
-has since been recovered from the subsidy-roll in the Record Office,
-that William Shakespeare was a denizen of the precinct in 1598. Had
-Shakespeare built a water conduit in the neighbourhood, or endowed an
-almshouse, he might have been celebrated in the pages of John Stow.
-
-They were neighbours, and may have been acquainted. The district had
-been familiar to Stow from childhood, and he may have entertained the
-poet as he entertains us in his _Survey_ with recollections of the
-changes he had witnessed in his long lifetime. Describing Tower Hill,
-he recalls the abbey of nuns of the order of St. Clare, called the
-Minories, and after giving the facts of its history, proceeds:
-
- "In place of this house of nuns is now built divers fair and
- large storehouses for armour and habiliments of war, with
- divers workhouses serving to the same purpose: there is a
- small parish church for inhabitants of the close, called St.
- Trinities. Near adjoining to this abbey, on the south side
- thereof, was sometime a farm belonging to the said nunnery;
- at the which farm I, myself, in my youth, have fetched many a
- half-penny worth of milk, and never had less than three ale
- pints for a half-penny in the summer, nor less than one ale
- quart for a half-penny in the winter, always hot from the
- kine, as the same was milked and strained. One Trolop, and
- afterwards Goodman, were the farmers there, and had thirty
- or forty kine to the pail. Goodman's son being heir to his
- father's purchase, let out the ground, first for grazing of
- horses, and then for garden-plots, and lived like a gentleman
- thereby."
-
-Here we have the source of the name Goodman's Fields, a point of some
-interest for us; but how vastly more interesting to have rambled with
-Stow in Elizabethan London, listening to such stories of the old order
-which had passed, giving place to the new!
-
-We have strayed outside the wall, but not far. This road between
-Aldgate and the Postern Gate by the Tower, running parallel with the
-wall, is called the Minories, after the nunnery. Setting our faces
-towards Aldgate, to retrace our steps, we have the store-houses for
-armour and habiliments of war on our right; the wide ditch on our left
-has been filled up, and partly enclosed for cultivation. There are
-trees, and cows browsing, although the farm which Stow remembered no
-longer existed. Before us, just outside Aldgate, is the church of St.
-Buttolph, with its massive tower, standing in a spacious churchyard.
-Owing to the extensive building and development which had taken
-place outside the wall since the Reformation, it had been necessary
-to construct lofts and galleries in this church to accommodate the
-parishioners. At Aldgate the line of the wall turns westward towards
-Bishopsgate. Parallel to it a road has been made along the bank of the
-ditch, and leads into Bishopsgate Street. This is Houndsditch. The
-houses stand thickly along one side of the way looking towards the
-wall; the ditch has been filled up, and the wide surface is used for
-cattle pens or milking stalls.
-
-We will not go along Houndsditch, but turning sharply to the left from
-St. Buttolph's we pass through Aldgate. In doing so we immediately
-find ourselves in the midst of the remains of the great priory of Holy
-Trinity. The road leads southward into Fenchurch Street, branching off
-on the west into Leadenhall Street. At the junction of these streets
-stood the hospitium of the priory. Between Leadenhall Street and the
-city wall, from Aldgate nearly up to St. Andrew Undershaft, lies the
-ground-plan of the establishment of the Canons Regular, known as
-Christchurch, or the priory of Holy Trinity, the grandest of all the
-monastic institutions in Middlesex except Westminster. The heads of the
-establishment were aldermen of the City of London, representing the
-Portsoken Ward.
-
- "These priors have sitten and ridden amongst the aldermen of
- London, in livery like unto them, saving that his habit was
- in shape of a spiritual person, as I, myself, have seen in my
- childhood; at which time the prior kept a most bountiful house
- of meat and drink, both for rich and poor, as well within
- the house as at the gates, to all comers, according to their
- estates" (Stow).
-
-In 1531 the King took possession of Christchurch; the canons were
-sent to other houses of the same order--St. Bartholomew the Great,
-Smithfield; St. Mary Overies, Southwark; and St. Mary Spital--"and the
-priory, with the appurtenances, King Henry gave to Sir Thomas Audley,
-newly knighted, and after made Lord Chancellor" (Stow). So extensive
-and so solid was the mass of building that Audley was at a loss to get
-the space cleared for the new house he wished to build here. He offered
-the great church of the priory to any one who would take it down and
-cart away the materials. But as this offer met with no response, Audley
-had to undertake the destruction himself. Stow could remember how the
-workmen employed on this work, "with great labour, beginning at the
-top"--the tower had pinnacles at each corner like the towers at St.
-Saviour's and St. Sepulchre's--"loosed stone from stone, and threw
-them down, whereby the most part of them were broken, and few remained
-whole; and those were sold very cheap, for all the buildings then made
-about the city were of brick and timber. At that time any man in the
-city might have a cart-load of hard stone for paving brought to his
-door for sixpence or sevenpence, with the carriage." Thus, in place of
-the priory and its noble church, was built the residence of Thomas,
-Lord Audley, and here he lived till his death in 1544. By marriage of
-his only daughter and heiress, the house passed into the possession of
-Thomas Howard, Duke of Norfolk, and was then called Duke's Place.
-
-Turning our backs upon Duke's Place and continuing a little further
-along the way by which Stow used to fetch the milk from the farm at
-the Minories to his father's house on Cornhill, we come to Leadenhall,
-a great building which served as a public granary in ancient times,
-and later as the chief market hall of the city. Leaving aside all the
-particulars of its history which Stow gives, let us note what he tells
-us from his own recollections:
-
- "The use of Leadenhall in my youth was thus:--In a part of the
- north quadrant, on the east side of the north gate, were the
- common beams for weighing of wool and other wares, as had been
- accustomed; on the west side the gate were the scales to weigh
- meal; the other three sides were reserved, for the most part,
- to the making and resting of the pageants showed at Midsummer
- in the watch; the remnant of the sides and quadrants was
- employed for the stowage of wool sacks, but not closed up; the
- lofts above were partly used by the painters in working for
- the decking of pageants and other devices, for beautifying of
- the watch and watchmen; the residue of the lofts were letten
- out to merchants, the wool winders and packers therein to
- wind and pack their wools. And thus much for Leadenhall may
- suffice."
-
-The celebration of the Nativity of St. John and the civic pageantry
-of Midsummer Eve belonged to the past; but Stow could remember the
-assembly of the citizens arrayed in parti-coloured vestments of red
-and white over their armour, their lances coloured and decorated
-to distinguish the various wards they represented, their torches
-borne in cressets on long poles. He could remember the processions
-as they passed the bonfires which burned in the open spaces of the
-city thoroughfares, and the throng of faces at the open windows and
-casements as they appeared in the fitful glare. The pageantry had
-disappeared with the suppression of the religious houses; but the
-military organization was merely changed. The musters of the city
-soldiers when they were reviewed by Queen Elizabeth at the coming of
-the Armada was a recent memory.
-
-And so we turn into Bishopsgate Street again, and walk along to Crosby
-Hall, the ancient palace of Richard III. In the middle of the roadway,
-opposite the junction of Threadneedle Street with Bishopsgate Street,
-stands a well, with a windlass, which probably existed here before the
-conduit was made near the gateway in the time of Henry VIII. We enter
-the precinct of St. Helen's: the wall of Crosby's great chamber is on
-our right hand; before us is the church of the nunnery. The spirit
-of the place is upon us. The barriers of time are removed; past and
-present mingle in the current of our meditation. Lo! one bids us a
-courteous farewell: it is Master Stow, our cicerone, who goes away
-in the direction of St. Andrew Undershaft. The presence of another
-influence continues to be felt. We enter the dim church, and shadows
-of kneeling nuns seem to hover in the twilight of the northern nave.
-Invisible fingers touch the organ-keys; the strains of evensong arise
-from the choir. Our reverie is broken, an influence recedes from us.
-But turning our eyes towards the painted picture of Shakespeare which
-fills the memorial window in this ancient church, we join in the hymn
-of praise and thanksgiving.
-
- * * * * *
-
-What chiefly impressed the Elizabethan was the newness of London, and
-the rapidity with which its ancient features were being obliterated.
-John Stow felt it incumbent upon him to make a record of the ancient
-city before it was entirely swept away and forgotten. In what was new
-to him we find a similar interest.
-
-Through Bishopsgate northward lies Shoreditch. The old church which
-stood here in Elizabethan times has disappeared, but on the site
-stands another church with the same dedication, to St. Leonard. The
-sweet peal of the bells from the old belfry, so much appreciated by
-the Elizabethans, is to be heard no more; but the muniment chest of
-the modern church contains the old registers, in which we may read the
-names of Tarleton, Queen Elizabeth's famous jester, of Burbage, and
-the colony of players who lived in this parish, in the precinct of the
-dissolved priory of Holywell. The road from Shoreditch to the precinct
-still exists, known as Holywell Lane.
-
-The priory of St. John Baptist, called Holywell, a house of nuns, had
-been rebuilt, in the earlier period of the reign of Henry VIII., by
-Sir Thomas Lovel, K.G., of Lincoln's Inn. He endowed the priory with
-fair lands, extended the buildings, and added a large chapel. He also
-built considerably in Lincoln's Inn, including the fine old gateway in
-Chancery Lane, which still stands as one of the few remaining memorials
-of ancient London. Sir Thomas figures as one of the characters in
-Shakespeare's play of _Henry VIII._ When he died he was duly buried in
-the large chapel which he had added to Holywell Priory, in accordance
-with his design; but a few years later, in 1539, the priory was
-surrendered to the King and dissolved. Stow tells us that the church
-was pulled down--it is doubtful if Lovel's chapel was spared--and
-that many houses were built within the precinct "for the lodgings of
-noblemen, of strangers born, and others."
-
-In the first edition of his _Survey_ Stow added:--
-
- "And near thereunto are builded two publique houses for the
- acting and shewe of comedies, tragedies and histories, for
- recreation. Whereof one is called the Courtein, and the other
- the Theatre; both standing on the south west side towards the
- field."
-
-This passage was omitted from the second edition of the book published
-in 1603; but the whole extensive history of these playhouses, which
-was won from oblivion by the research of J. O. Halliwell-Phillipps,
-proceeded from this brief testimony of Stow.
-
-Against the background of the ancient priory this precinct of
-Holywell presented a perfect picture of the new conditions which
-constituted what was distinctively Elizabethan London. It comprehended
-the conditions of freedom required by the new life. Outside the
-jurisdiction of the city, but within the protection of the justices of
-Middlesex; lying open to the common fields of Finsbury, where archery
-and other sports were daily practised; its two playhouses affording
-varied entertainment in fencing matches, wrestling matches, and other
-"sports, shows, and pastimes," besides stage-plays performed by the
-various acting companies which visited them; this precinct of Holywell
-presented a microcosm of Elizabethan London society. The attraction
-of the plays brought visitors from all parts of the city. On the days
-when dramatic performances were to be given flags were hoisted in the
-morning over the playhouses; and after the early midday dinner the
-stream of playgoers began to flow from the gates. On horseback and
-on foot, over the fields from Cripplegate and Moorgate, or along the
-road from Bishopsgate, came men and women, citizens and gallants,
-visitors from the country, adventurers and pickpockets. All classes
-and conditions mingled in the Theatre or the Curtain, in the "common
-playhouses," as they were called, which only came into existence in
-1576, after the players had been banished from the city. It was all
-delightfully new and modern; the buildings were gorgeously decorated;
-the apparel of the players was rich and dazzling; the music was
-enthralling; the play was a magic dream.
-
-Some of the plays of Marlowe were performed at these Holywell theatres;
-and in 1596 a play by the new poet, William Shakespeare, called _Romeo
-and Juliet_, was produced at the Curtain, and caused a great sensation
-in Elizabethan London. The famous balcony scene of this play was
-cleverly adapted to the orchestra gallery above the stage. The stage
-itself projected into the arena, and the "groundlings" stood around it.
-Above were three tiers of seated galleries, and near the stage were
-"lords' rooms," the precursors of the private boxes of a later time.
-
- * * * * *
-
-After the Theatre and Curtain had become a feature of Elizabethan
-London at Shoreditch, other playhouses came into existence on the other
-side of the river; first at Newington, outside the jurisdiction of
-the city, in conditions corresponding to those of Shoreditch. For the
-sports and pastimes of Finsbury Fields, in the neighbourhood of the
-playhouses, there were the sports and pastimes of St. George's Fields
-in the neighbourhood of the Newington Theatre. Playgoers from the city
-took boat to Paris Garden stairs and witnessed the bear-baiting on
-Bankside, or proceeded by road on horseback or on foot to St. George's
-Fields and Newington; or they went thither over the bridge all the way
-by road, walking or riding. The use of coaches was very limited, owing
-to the narrow roads and imperfect paving of Elizabethan London.
-
-[Illustration: SHOOTING MATCH BY THE LONDON ARCHERS IN THE YEAR 1583.]
-
-At Newington the proprietor and manager of the playhouse was Philip
-Henslowe, whose diary is the chief source of what information we have
-concerning the earlier period of Elizabethan drama. He was a man of
-business instinct, who conducted his dramatic enterprise on purely
-commercial lines. In 1584 he secured the lease of a house and two
-gardens on Bankside, and here, in the "liberty" of the Bishop of
-Winchester, nearer to the city but outside the civic jurisdiction, he
-erected his playhouse, called the Rose, in 1591. Henslowe thus brought
-the drama nearer to the city than it had been since the edict of 1575
-abolished the common stages which until then had been set up in inn
-yards or other convenient places in the city. The flag of the playhouse
-could be seen across the river; and from all points came the tide
-of playgoers, whose custom was a harvest to Henslowe and the Thames
-watermen.
-
-Midway between these two points of theatrical attraction--Holywell,
-Shoreditch on the north, and Newington and Bankside on the
-south--Shakespeare lodged in the precinct of St. Helen's, Bishopsgate.
-The company of players with whom he had become finally associated was
-that of the Lord Chamberlain. They derived their profits from three
-sources--from performances at court, from theatrical tours, and from
-performances at the Theatre and the Curtain. The Theatre was the
-property of the family of James Burbage, who had built it in 1576--his
-son Richard Burbage, the famous actor, and others. The interest of the
-proprietors may have suffered from Henslowe's enterprise in setting
-up a playhouse on Bankside; and they were in dispute with the ground
-landlord of their playhouse in regard to the renewal of their lease.
-In these circumstances the Burbages, with the co-operation of other
-members of the company, secured a site in the Winchester Liberty on
-Bankside, not far from the Rose but nearer the Bridge. They then took
-down their building in Holywell, vacated the land, and re-erected the
-playhouse on the other side of the river. Those who participated in
-this enterprise became "sharers," or partners, in the new playhouse.
-Shakespeare was one of these, and the name by which it was called--the
-Globe--was symbolical of the genius which reached its maturity in
-plays presented in this theatre during the closing years of the reign
-of Elizabeth and the first decade of the reign of her successor. "Totus
-mundus agit histrionem" was the inscription over the portal of the
-Globe. "All the world's a stage," said Shakespeare's Jaques in _As You
-Like It_. The life of Elizabethan London found its ultimate expression
-in that playhouse, which became celebrated then as "the glory of the
-Bank," and now is famous in all parts of the world where the glory of
-English literature is cherished.
-
- * * * * *
-
-There were many reminiscences of mediæval times on the Surrey side. At
-Bermondsey were to be seen the extensive remains of the great abbey
-of St. Saviour. After the Dissolution its name became transferred to
-the church near the end of London Bridge, formerly known as St. Mary
-Overies, the splendid fane which in our time has worthily become the
-cathedral of Southwark. Between this church and the church of St.
-George were many inns, among them the Tabard, where travellers to and
-from Canterbury and Dover, or Winchester and Southampton, introduced
-an element of novelty, change, and bustle; where plays were performed
-in the inn yards before the playhouses were built on Bankside. At the
-end of Bankside, looking towards the church of St. Saviour, stood
-Winchester House, the London residence of the Bishop of Winchester
-since the twelfth century. Here Cardinal Beaufort and Stephen Gardiner,
-Bishop of Winchester, had lived in great state. The site, including
-the park, which extended parallel with the river as far as Paris
-Garden, was formerly the property of the priory of Bermondsey. This
-area was under the separate jurisdiction of the Bishops of Winchester,
-and was called their "Liberty." Here, in the early years of Queen
-Elizabeth, were two amphitheatres--one for bull-baiting, the other for
-bear-baiting. There were also ponds for fish, called the Pike Ponds.[4]
-The great Camden records an anecdote of these ponds or stews, "which
-are here to feed Pikes and Tenches fat, and to scour them from the
-strong and muddy fennish taste." All classes delighted in the cruel
-sport of bear-baiting on the Bankside: ambassadors and distinguished
-foreigners were always conducted to these performances; on special
-occasions the Queen had them at the palace.
-
-In 1583 one of the amphitheatres fell down, and when re-erected it was
-built on the model of the playhouses.[5] It then became known as the
-Bear Garden; the bull-baiting amphitheatre dropped out of existence;
-perhaps it was reconstructed by Henslowe as his Rose theatre. The point
-is not of much importance, except as regards the evolution of the
-playhouse.
-
-The second playhouse built on the Surrey side after the Rose was the
-Swan, opened in 1596. This was erected on a site in the manor of Paris
-Garden, separated only by a road from the Liberty of Winchester. The
-playhouse was in a line with the landing-stairs, opposite Blackfriars.
-
-After the Globe playhouse was built in 1599, the other
-playhouses--Henslowe's Rose and Langley's Swan--ceased to flourish.
-Here the outward facts corresponded with the inward: a lovely flower
-had opened into bloom on the Bankside; what was unnecessary to its
-support drooped earthward like a sheath.
-
- * * * * *
-
-Opposite Paris Garden, across the river, was Blackfriars; and here the
-change from the ancient order to what was distinctively Elizabethan
-London was most manifest. The ancient monastery had existed here from
-1276, when the Dominican or Black Friars moved hither from Holborn,
-until 1538, when the establishment was surrendered to King Henry VIII.
-It possessed a magnificent church, a vast palatial hall, and cloisters.
-Edward VI. had granted the whole precinct, with its buildings, to Sir
-Thomas Cawarden, the Master of the Revels. It became an aristocratic
-residential quarter; and in the earlier period of Queen Elizabeth's
-reign plays were performed here, probably in the ancient hall of the
-monastery, by the children of Her Majesty's chapel and the choir-boys
-of St. Paul's. At a later period--viz., in 1596--James Burbage,
-who built the theatre in Shoreditch, built a new playhouse in the
-precinct, or more probably adapted an existing building--the hall or
-part of the church--to serve the purpose of dramatic representation.
-This playhouse, consequently, was not open to the weather at the top
-like the common playhouses, and it was distinguished as the "private"
-theatre at Blackfriars.
-
-The west wall of the precinct was built along the bank of the Fleet
-river. Across the river opposite was the royal palace of Bridewell,
-which Edward VI. had given to the city of London to be a workhouse for
-the poor and a house of correction. This contiguity of a house for the
-poor and the remains of a monastery suggests a reflection on the social
-problem of Elizabethan London.
-
-Before the Reformation the religious houses were the agencies for
-the relief of the poor, the sick, the afflicted. The unemployed were
-assisted with lodging and food on their way as they journeyed in search
-of a market for their labour, paying for their entertainment at the
-religious houses by work either on the roads in the neighbourhood or
-on the buildings or in the gardens and fields, according to their
-trades and skill. It would seem that King Henry did not realise the
-importance and extent of this feature in the social economy, because,
-after he had suppressed the religious establishments, he complained
-very reproachfully of the number of masterless men and rogues that
-were everywhere to be found, especially about London. The good Bishop
-Ridley, in an eloquent appeal addressed to William Cecil, represented
-the poor and sick and starving in the streets of London in the person
-of Christ, beseeching the king to succour the poor and suffering Christ
-in the streets of London by bestowing his palace of Bridewell to be a
-home for the homeless, the starving, and the sick, where erring ones
-could be corrected and the good sustained. The good young monarch
-granted the bishop's request, and Bridewell Hospital was thus founded
-to do the social work in which Blackfriars monastery on the other side
-of the Fleet river had formerly borne its share. But single efforts of
-this kind were quite unequal to cope with the social difficulty; and
-early in the reign of Elizabeth the first Poor Law was passed and a
-system of relief came into operation.
-
-To meet the difficulty of unemployment, it was part of the policy of
-Queen Elizabeth's Government to encourage new industries, whether due
-to invention and discovery or to knowledge gained by visiting foreign
-countries to learn new processes and manufactures; the inventor or
-the introducer of the novelty was rewarded with a monopoly, and he
-received a licence "to take up workmen" to be taught the methods of the
-new industry. One of the manufactures which had been thus stimulated
-was glass-making; and in the precinct of Blackfriars was a famous
-glass-house or factory, a reminiscence of which still exists in the
-name Glasshouse Yard. It has been shown how the crafts and trades of
-Elizabethan London gravitated to separate areas: Blackfriars precinct
-was famous as the abode of artists; one may hazard the guess that some
-of the portraits of Elizabethan and Jacobean players in the Dulwich
-Gallery may have been painted here. In the reign of Charles I. Vandyke
-had his studio in Blackfriars, where the king paid him a visit to see
-his pictures. The precinct was famous also as the abode of glovers; and
-in the reigns of James and Charles it became a notorious stronghold
-of Puritans. The existing name of Playhouse Yard, at the back of
-_The Times_ newspaper office, affords some indication of the site of
-the theatre; and the name Cloister Court is the sole remnant of the
-cloisters of Blackfriars monastery.
-
-The eastern boundary of the precinct was St. Andrew's Hill, which still
-exists. On the site of the present church of St. Andrew in the Wardrobe
-stood a church of the same dedication in Elizabethan London. Stow wrote
-of "the parish church of St. Andrew in the Wardrobe, a proper church,
-but few monuments hath it." Near the church (the site being indicated
-by the existing court called the Wardrobe) was a building of State,
-which Stow calls "the King's Great Wardrobe." The Elizabethan use of
-the Wardrobe is described by Stow thus: "In this house of late years is
-lodged Sir John Fortescue, knight, master of the wardrobe, chancellor
-and under-treasurer of the exchequer, and one of her majesty's most
-honorable privy Council."
-
-Near the top of St. Andrew's Hill and within the precinct of
-Blackfriars was a house which Shakespeare purchased in 1613. It is
-described in the extant Deed of Conveyance as "now or late being in
-the tenure or occupation of one William Ireland ... abutting upon a
-street leading down to Puddle Wharf on the east part, right against the
-Kinges Majesties Wardrobe." Curiously enough, the name of this occupier
-survives in the existing Ireland Yard.
-
-[Illustration]
-
-
-ENVOY
-
-The omissions in this imperfect sketch of Elizabethan London are many
-and obvious. The design has been to show the tangible setting of a
-jewel rather than the jewel itself; the outward conditions in which
-the life of a new age was manifested. The background of destruction
-has been inevitably emphasised; but in Elizabethan London historic
-memorials existed on every hand. Nothing has been said of Baynard's
-Castle, its Norman walls rising from the margin of the river to
-the south of Blackfriars, or of St Bartholomew the Great, or the
-Charterhouse, or St. Giles's, Cripplegate; although an account of them
-would have completed the outer ring of our perambulation of the London
-described by Stow. The whole region westward--Holborn, Fleet Street,
-the Strand, and Westminster--has been left for another occasion. Here
-and there, however, we have been able to glance at historic buildings
-which had survived from earlier ages to witness the changes in London
-after the Reformation. It was those changes that led to the making of
-the playhouse and brought the conditions which enfolded the possibility
-realised in Shakespeare. This has been the point of view in the
-foregoing pages. A study of characteristics rather than a detailed
-account has been offered for the consideration of the reader.
-
-FOOTNOTES:
-
-[1] Thomas Dekker, the pamphleteer and dramatist, describes the
-Exchange as it was in 1607, when "at every turn a man is put in mind of
-Babel, there is such a confusion of languages"; and as late as 1644 the
-picturesque dresses of the foreign merchants appear in an engraving by
-Hollar.
-
-[2] Camden speaks of "this so stately building," and in his terse
-fashion conveys the effect of the interior: "The west part, as also the
-Cross-yle, are spacious, high-built, and goodly to be seene by reason
-of the huge Pillars and a right beautiful arched Roof of stone."
-
-[3] This is Stow's figure. Camden gives the measurement as 534 feet.
-
-[4] The name survives in Pike Gardens, Bankside.
-
-[5] See the "Bear-house" near the "Play-house" (_i.e._, the Rose) in
-Norden's plan, 1593.
-
-
-
-
-PEPYS'S LONDON
-
-BY HENRY B. WHEATLEY, F.S.A.
-
-
-The growth of population in London was almost stationary for many
-centuries; as, owing to the generally unhealthy condition of ancient
-cities, the births seldom exceeded the deaths, and in the case of
-frequent pestilences the deaths actually exceeded the births. Thus
-during its early history the walls of London easily contained its
-inhabitants, although at all times in its history London will be found
-to have taken a higher rank for healthy sanitary conditions than most
-of its continental contemporaries. In the later Middle Ages the city
-overflowed its borders, and its liberties were recognized and marked by
-Bars. Subsequently nothing was done to bring the further out-growths of
-London proper within the fold, and in Tudor times we first hear of the
-suburbs as disreputable quarters, a condemnation which was doubtless
-just, as the inhabitants mostly consisted of those who were glad to
-escape the restrictions of life within the city walls.
-
-The first great exodus westwards of the more aristocratic inhabitants
-of London took place in the reigns of James I. and Charles I.--first to
-Lincoln's Inn Fields and its neighbourhood, and then to Covent Garden,
-and both these suburbs were laid out by Inigo Jones, the greatest
-architect of beautiful street fronts that England has ever produced. It
-is an eternal disgrace to Londoners that so many of his noble buildings
-in Lincoln's Inn Fields have been destroyed. The period of construction
-of these districts is marked by the names of Henrietta and King
-Streets in Covent Garden, and Great Queen Street, Lincoln's Inn Fields.
-
-After the Restoration modern London was founded. During the
-Commonwealth there had been a considerable stagnation in the movement
-of the population, and when the Royalists returned to England from
-abroad they found their family mansions in the city unfitted for their
-habitation, and in consequence established themselves in what is now
-the city of Westminster. Henry Jermyn, first Earl of St. Albans, began
-to provide houses for some of them in St. James's Square, and buildings
-in the district around were rapidly proceeded with.
-
-We have a faithful representation of London, as it appeared at the
-end of the Commonwealth period, in Newcourt and Faithorne's valuable
-Plan of London, dated 1658. A long growth of houses north of the
-Thames is seen stretching from the Tower to the neighbourhood of
-Westminster Abbey. Islington is found at the extreme north of the plan
-unconnected with the streets of the town, Hoxton connected with the
-city by Shoreditch, Bethnal Green almost alone, and Stepney at the
-extreme north-east. South of the Thames there are a few streets close
-to the river, and a small out-growth from London Bridge along the great
-southern road containing Southwark and Bermondsey. There is little at
-Lambeth but the Archbishop's Palace and the great marsh.
-
-On this plan we see what was the condition of the Haymarket and
-Piccadilly before the Restoration. This was soon to be changed, for
-between the years 1664 and 1668 were erected three great mansions in
-the "Road to Reading" (now Piccadilly), viz., Clarendon House (where
-Bond and Albemarle Streets now stand), Berkeley House (on the site
-now occupied by Devonshire House), and Burlington House. Piccadilly
-was the original name of the district after which Piccadilly Hall was
-called. The latter place was situated at the north-east corner of the
-Haymarket, nearly opposite to Panton Square, and close by Panton
-Street, named after Colonel Thomas Panton, the notorious gamester, who
-purchased Piccadilly Hall from Mrs. Baker, the widow of the original
-owner.
-
-There is much to be said in favour of associating the name of some
-well-known man with the London of his time, and thus showing how his
-descriptions illustrate the chief historical events of his time, with
-many of which he may have been connected. In the case of Samuel Pepys,
-we can see with his eyes many of the incidents of the early years of
-the Restoration period, and thus gain an insight into the inner life of
-the times. Pepys lived through some of the greatest changes that have
-passed over London, and in alluding to some of these we may quote his
-remarks with advantage. His friend, John Evelyn, also refers to many of
-the same events, and may also be quoted, more particularly as he was
-specially engaged at different periods of his life in improving several
-parts of London.
-
-We are truly fortunate in having two such admirable diarists at hand to
-help us to a proper understanding of the course of events and of the
-changes that took place in London during their long lives.
-
-When Pepys commenced his _Diary_ on January 1st, 1660, we find him
-living in a small house in Axe Yard, Westminster, a place which derived
-its name from a brewhouse on the west side of King Street, called
-"The Axe." He was then clerk to Mr. (afterwards Sir George) Downing,
-one of the Four Tellers of the Receipt of the Exchequer, from whom
-Downing Street obtained its name. Pepys was in the receipt of £50
-a year, and his household was not a large one, for it consisted of
-himself, his wife, and his servant Jane. He let the greater part of
-the house, and his family lived in the garrets. About 1767 Axe Yard
-was swept away, and Fludyer Street arose on its site, named after Sir
-Samuel Fludyer, who was Lord Mayor in 1761. Nearly a century afterwards
-(1864-65) this street also was swept away (with others) to make room
-for the Government offices, consisting of the India, Foreign and
-Colonial Offices, etc., so that all trace of Pepys's residence has now
-completely passed away.
-
-Macaulay, in the famous third chapter of his History, where he gives
-a brilliant picture of the state of England in 1685, and clearly
-describes London under the later Stuarts, writes: "Each of the two
-cities which made up the capital of England had its own centre of
-attraction." We may take this sentence as our text, and try to
-illustrate it by some notices of London life in the city and at the
-Court end of town. The two extremes were equally familiar to Pepys, and
-both were seen by him almost daily when he stepped into his boat by the
-Tower and out of it again at Westminster.
-
-To take the court life first, let us begin with the entry of the
-King into London on his birthday (May 29th, 1660). The enthusiastic
-reception of Charles II. is a commonplace of history, and from the
-Tower to Whitehall joy was exhibited by all that thronged the streets.
-Evelyn was spectator of the scene, which he describes in his _Diary_:--
-
- "May 29th. This day his Majestie Charles the Second came to
- London after a sad and long exile and calamitous suffering
- both of the King and Church, being 17 yeares. This was also
- his birthday, and with a triumph of above 20,000 horse
- and foote, brandishing their swords and shouting with
- inexpressible joy; the wayes strew'd with flowers, the bells
- ringing, the streetes hung with tapissry, fountaines running
- with wine; the Maior, Aldermen and all the Companies in their
- liveries, chaines of gold and banners; Lords and nobles
- clad in cloth of silver, gold and velvet; the windowes and
- balconies all set with ladies; trumpets, music and myriads
- of people flocking, even so far as Rochester, so as they
- were seven houres in passing the citty, even from 2 in y^e
- afternoon till 9 at night.
-
- "I stood in the Strand and beheld it, and bless'd God. And
- all this was done without one drop of blood shed, and by that
- very army which rebell'd against him; but it was y^e Lord's
- doing, for such a restauration was never mention'd in any
- history antient or modern, since the returne of the Jews from
- the Babylonish captivity; nor so joyfull a day and so bright
- ever seene in this nation, this hapning when to expect or
- effect it was past all human policy."
-
-One of the brilliant companies of young and comely men in white
-doublets who took part in the procession was led by Simon Wadlow,
-the vintner and host of the "Devil" tavern. This was the son of Ben
-Jonson's Simon Wadlow, "Old Simon the King," who gave his name to
-Squire Western's favourite song. From Rugge's curious MS. _Diurnal_ we
-learn how the young women of London were not behind the young men in
-the desire to join in the public rejoicings:--
-
- "Divers maidens, in behalf of themselves and others, presented
- a petition to the Lord Mayor of London, wherein they pray
- his Lordship to grant them leave and liberty to meet his
- Majesty on the day of his passing through the city; and if
- their petition be granted that they will all be clad in white
- waistcoats and crimson petticoats, and other ornaments of
- triumph and rejoicing."
-
-Pepys was at sea at this time with Sir Edward Montagu, where the
-sailors had their own rejoicings and fired off three guns, but he
-enters in his _Diary_: "This day, it is thought, the King do enter the
-city of London."
-
-Charles, immediately on his arrival in London, settled himself in the
-Palace of Whitehall, which was his chief place of residence during the
-whole of his reign, but although he was very much at home in it, he
-felt keenly the inconveniences attending its situation by the river
-side, which caused it frequently to be flooded by high tides.
-
-The King alludes to this trouble in one of his amusingly chatty
-speeches to the House of Commons on March 1st, 1661-62, when
-arrangements were being made for the entry of Katharine of Braganza
-into London. He said:--
-
- "The mention of my wife's arrival puts me in mind to desire
- you to put that compliment upon her, that her entrance into
- the town may be with more decency than the ways will now
- suffer it to be; and for that purpose, I pray you would
- quickly pass such laws as are before you, in order to the
- amending those ways, and that she may not find Whitehall
- surrounded by water."
-
-[Illustration: A VIEW OF LONDON AS IT APPEARED BEFORE THE GREAT FIRE.
-
-_From an old print._
-
- 1 St. Paul's.
- 2 St. Dunstan's.
- 3 Temple.
- 4 St. Bride's.
- 5 St. Andrew's.
- 6 Baynard's Castle.
- 7 St. Sepulchre's.
- 8 Bow Church.
- 9 Guildhall.
- 10 St. Michael's.
- 11 St. Laurence, Poultney.
- 12 Old Swan.
- 13 London Bridge.
- 14 St. Dunstan's East.
- 15 Billingsgate.
- 16 Custom House.
- 17 Tower.
- 18 Tower Wharf.
- 19 St. Olave's.
- 20 St. Saviour's.
- 21 Winchester House.
- 22 The Globe.
- 23 The Bear Garden.
- 24 Hampstead.
- 25 Highgate.
- 26 Hackney.]
-
-In the following year we read in Pepys's _Diary_ a piquant account
-of the putting out of Lady Castlemaine's kitchen fire on a certain
-occasion when Charles was engaged to sup with her:--
-
- "October 13th, 1663. My Lady Castlemaine, I hear, is in as
- great favour as ever, and the King supped with her the very
- first night he came from Bath: and last night and the night
- before supped with her; when there being a chine of beef
- to roast, and the tide rising into their kitchen that it
- could not be roasted there, and the cook telling her of it,
- she answered, 'Zounds! she must set the house on fire, but
- it should be roasted!' So it was carried to Mrs. Sarah's
- husband's, and there it was roasted."
-
-The last sentence requires an explanation. Mrs. Sarah was Lord
-Sandwich's housekeeper, and Pepys had found out in November, 1662, that
-she had just been married, and that her husband was a cook. We are not
-told his name or where he lived.
-
-Lord Dorset, in the famous song, "To all you ladies now on land,"
-specially alludes to the periodical inundations at the Palace:--
-
- "The King, with wonder and surprise,
- Will swear the seas grow bold;
- Because the tides will higher rise
- Than e'er they did of old;
- But let him know it is our tears
- Bring floods of grief to Whitehall stairs."
-
-Pepys was a constant visitor to Whitehall, and the Index to the _Diary_
-contains over three pages of references to his visits. He refers to
-Henry VIII.'s Gallery, the Boarded Gallery, the Matted Gallery, the
-Shield Gallery, and the Vane Room. Lilly, the astrologer, mentions the
-Guard Room. The Adam and Eve Gallery was so called from a picture by
-Mabuse, now at Hampton Court. In the Matted Gallery was a ceiling by
-Holbein, and on a wall in the Privy Chamber a painting of Henry VII.
-and Henry VIII., with their Queens, by the same artist, of which a copy
-in small is preserved at Hampton Court. On another wall was a "Dance of
-Death," also by Holbein, of which Douce has given a description; and in
-the bedchamber of Charles II. a representation by Joseph Wright of the
-King's birth, his right to his dominions, and miraculous preservation,
-with the motto, _Terras Astræa revisit_.
-
-All these rooms, and most of the lodgings of the many residents, royal
-and non-royal, were in the portion of the Palace situated on the river
-side of the road, now known as Whitehall. This road was shut in by two
-gates erected by Henry VIII. when he enlarged the borders of the Palace
-after he had taken it from Wolsey. The one at the Westminster end was
-called the King Street gate, and the other, at the north end, designed
-by Holbein, was called by his name, and also Whitehall or Cock-pit gate.
-
-It is necessary to remember that Whitehall extended into St. James's
-Park. The Tilt Yard, where many tournaments and pageants were held
-in the reigns of Henry VIII., Elizabeth, and James I., fronted the
-Banqueting House, and occupied what is now the Horse Guards' Parade. On
-the south side of the Tilt Yard was the Cockpit, where Monk, Duke of
-Albemarle, lived for a time. His name was given to a tavern in the Tilt
-Yard ("The Monk's Head").
-
-On the north side was Spring Gardens, otherwise the King's Garden, but
-it subsequently became a place of public entertainment, and after the
-Restoration it was styled the Old Spring Garden; then the ground was
-built upon, and the entertainments removed to the New Spring Garden at
-Lambeth, afterwards called Vauxhall.
-
-The Cockpit was originally used for cock-fighting, but it cannot be
-definitely said when it ceased to be employed for this cruel sport. It
-was for a considerable time used as a royal theatre, and Malone wrote:--
-
- "Neither Elizabeth, nor James I., nor Charles I., I believe,
- ever went to the public theatre, but they frequently ordered
- plays to be performed at Court, which were represented in the
- royal theatre called the Cockpit."
-
-Malone is probably incorrect in respect to Elizabeth's use of the
-Cockpit, for certainly cock-fighting was practised here as late as
-1607, as may be seen from the following entry in the State Papers:--
-
- "Aug. 4th, 1607. Warrant to pay 100 marks per annum to William
- Gateacre for breeding, feeding, etc., the King's game cocks
- during the life of George Coliner, Cockmaster."[6]
-
-It is, of course, possible that the players and the cocks occupied the
-place contemporaneously.
-
-The lodgings at the Cockpit were occupied by some well-known men.
-Philip Herbert, Earl of Pembroke and Montgomery, saw Charles I. pass
-from St. James's to the scaffold at the Banqueting House from one
-of his windows, and he died in these apartments on January 23rd,
-1650. Oliver Cromwell, when Lord-Lieutenant of Ireland, was given,
-by order of Parliament, "the use of the lodgings called the Cockpit,
-of the Spring Garden and St. James's House, and the command of St.
-James's Park," and when Protector, and in possession of Whitehall
-Palace, he still retained the Cockpit. When in 1657 he relaxed some
-of the prohibitions against the Theatre, he used the Cockpit stage
-occasionally for instrumental and vocal music.
-
-A little before the Restoration the apartments were assigned to General
-Monk, and Charles II. confirmed the arrangement. Here he died, as Duke
-of Albemarle, on January 3rd, 1670. In 1673 George Villiers, second
-Duke of Buckingham, became a resident, and at the Revolution of 1688
-the Princess Anne was living here.
-
-There has been some confusion in respect to the references to the
-Cockpit in Pepys's _Diary_, as two distinct theatres are referred to
-under this name. The references before November, 1660, are to the
-performances of the Duke's Company at the Cockpit in Drury Lane.
-Here Pepys saw the "Loyal Subject," "Othello," "Wit without Money,"
-and "The Woman's Prize or Tamer Tamed." The subsequent passages in
-which the Cockpit is referred to apply to the royal theatre attached
-to Whitehall Palace. Here Pepys saw "The Cardinal," "Claricilla,"
-"Humorous Lieutenant," "Scornful Lady," and the "Valiant Cid." It is
-useful to remember that the performances at Whitehall were in the
-evening, and those at the public theatre in the afternoon.
-
-The buildings of the Old Whitefriars Palace by the river side were
-irregular and unimposing outside, although they were handsome inside.
-The grand scheme of Inigo Jones for rebuilding initiated by James I.,
-and occasionally entertained by Charles I. and II. and William III.,
-came to nothing, but the noble Banqueting House remains to show what
-might have been.
-
-The Rev. Dr. Sheppard, in his valuable work on _The Old Palace of
-Whitehall_ (1902), refers to Grinling Gibbons's statue of James II.,
-which for many years stood in the Privy Garden, and is one of the very
-few good statues in London. He refers to the temporary removal of the
-statue to the front of Gwydyr House, and writes: "Since the statue has
-been removed to its present position an inscription (there was none
-originally) has been placed on its stone pedestal. It runs as follows:--
-
- JACOBUS SECUNDUS
- DEI GRATIA ANGLIÆ SCOTIÆ FRANCIÆ
- ET HIBERNIÆ REX.
- FIDEI DEFENSOR. ANNO MDCLXXXVI."
-
-This, however, is a mistake, and the inscription runs as follows:--
-
- JACOBUS SECUNDUS
- DEI GRATIÆ
- ANGLIÆ SCOTIÆ
- FRANCIÆ ET
- HIBERNIÆ
- REX
- FIDEI DEFENSOR
- ANNO MDCLXXXVI
-
-in capitals, and without any stops.
-
-The present writer remembers well being taken as a little boy to
-read the inscription and find out the error in the Latin. The statue
-has since been removed to the front of the new buildings of the
-Admiralty between the Horse Guards' Parade and Spring Gardens, a very
-appropriate position for a Lord High Admiral. I am happy to see that
-the inscription has not been altered, and the incorrect "Dei gratiæ"
-appears as in my youth.
-
-James Duke of York, after the Restoration, occupied apartments in
-St. James's Palace, and his Secretary of the Admiralty, Sir William
-Coventry, had lodgings conveniently near him. The Duke sometimes moved
-from one palace to the other, as his father, Charles I., had done
-before him. Henrietta Maria took a fancy to the place, and most of
-their children were born at St. James's, the Duke being one of these.
-
-James's changes of residence are recorded in Pepys's _Diary_ as
-follows:--
-
- "Jan. 23rd, 1664-65. Up and with Sir W. Batten and Sir W. Pen
- to White Hall; but there finding the Duke gone to his lodgings
- at St. James's for alltogether, his Duchesse being ready to
- lie in, we to him and there did our usual business."
-
- "May 3rd, 1667. Up and with Sir J. Minnes, W. Batten and W.
- Pen in the last man's coach to St. James's, and thence up to
- the Duke of York's chamber, which as it is now fretted at
- the top, and the chimney-piece made handsome, is one of the
- noblest and best-proportioned rooms that ever, I think, I saw
- in my life."
-
- "May 20th, 1668. Up and with Colonell Middleton in a new
- coach he hath made him, very handsome, to White Hall, where
- the Duke of York having removed his lodgings for this year
- to St. James's we walked thither; and there find the Duke of
- York coming to White Hall, and so back to the Council Chamber,
- where the Committee of the Navy sat."
-
-In November, 1667, James fell ill of the smallpox in St. James's
-Palace, when the gallery doors were locked up. On March 31st, 1671,
-Anne Duchess of York, the daughter of Clarendon, died here. The
-Princess Mary was married to William Prince of Orange in November,
-1677, at eleven o'clock at night, in the Chapel Royal, and on July
-28th, 1683, Princess Anne to Prince George of Denmark, when the pair
-took up their residence at St. James's.
-
-When James came to the crown he went to live at Whitehall Palace, but
-he frequently stayed at St. James's. On June 9th, 1688, Queen Mary of
-Modena was taken to the latter place, and on the following day James
-Francis Edward, afterwards known as "The Pretender," was born in the
-Old Bedchamber. This room was situated at the east end of the south
-front. It had three doors, one leading to a private staircase at the
-head of the bed, and two windows opposite the bed.[7]
-
-The room was pulled down previous to the alterations made in the year
-1822.
-
-The anecdote of Charles II. and the chaplains of the Chapel Royal
-is often quoted, but it is worth repeating, as it shows the ready
-wit of the great preacher, Dr. South. A daily dinner was prepared
-at the Palace for the chaplains, and one day the King notified his
-intention of dining with them. There had been some talk of abolishing
-this practice, and South seized the opportunity of saying grace to do
-his best in opposition to the suggestion; so, instead of the regular
-formula, which was "God save the King and bless the dinner," said "God
-bless the King and save the dinner." Charles at once cried out, "And it
-shall be saved."
-
-The Duke of York and the King were fond of wandering about the park at
-all hours, and as Charles often walked by himself, even as far as the
-then secluded Constitution Hill, James having expressed fears for his
-safety, the elder brother made the memorable reply: "No kind of danger,
-James, for I am sure no man in England will take away my life to make
-you king."
-
-Pepys tells us on March 16th, 1661-2, that while he was walking in the
-park he met the King and Duke coming "to see their fowl play."
-
-Cosmo III., Grand Duke of Tuscany (then Hereditary Prince), made a
-"Tour through England" in 1669, and it will be remembered that Macaulay
-found the account of his travels a valuable help towards obtaining
-a picture of the state of England in the middle of the seventeenth
-century. Cosmo thus describes St. James's Park:--
-
- "A large park enclosed on every side by a wall, and containing
- a long, straight, and spacious walk, intended for the
- amusement of the Mall, on each side of which grow large elms
- whose shade render the promenade in that place in summer
- infinitely pleasant and agreeable; close to it is a canal
- of nearly the same length, on which are several species of
- aquatic birds, brought up and rendered domestic--the work
- of the Protector Cromwell; the rest of the park is left
- uncultivated, and forms a wood for the retreat of deer and
- other quadrupeds."
-
-His Highness was not quite correct in giving the credit of the
-collection of wild-fowl to Cromwell, as the water-fowl appear to have
-been kept in the park from the reign of Elizabeth, and the ponds were
-replenished after the Restoration.
-
-Evelyn gives a long account in his _Diary_ of the zoological
-collections (February 9th, 1664-65). He says:
-
- "The parke was at this time stored with numerous flocks of
- severall sorts of ordinary and extraordinary wild fowle,
- breeding about the Decoy, which for being neere so greate a
- citty, and among such a concourse of souldiers and people,
- is a singular and diverting thing. There were also deere of
- several countries, white; spotted like leopards; antelopes,
- an elk, red deere, roebucks, staggs, guinea goates, Arabian
- sheepe, etc. There were withy pots or nests for the wild fowle
- to lay their eggs in, a little above y^e surface of y^e
- water."
-
-Charles II. was a saunterer by nature, and he appears to have been
-quite happy in the park either chatting with Nell Gwyn, at the end of
-the garden of her Pall Mall house, in feeding the fowl, or in playing
-the game of Mall.
-
-This game was popular from the end of the sixteenth to the beginning
-of the eighteenth century, and then went out of fashion. At one time
-there were few large towns without a mall, or prepared ground where
-the game could be played. There is reason to believe that the game was
-introduced into England from Scotland on the accession of James VI. to
-the English throne, because the King names it in his "Basilicon Dōron"
-among other exercises as suited for his son Henry, who was afterwards
-Prince of Wales, and about the same time Sir R. Dallington, in his
-_Method of Travel_ (1598), expresses his surprise that the sport was
-not then introduced into England.
-
-The game was played in long shaded alleys, and on dry gravel walks.
-The mall in St. James's Park was nearly half a mile in length, and was
-kept with the greatest care. Pepys relates how he went to talk with the
-keeper of the mall, and how he learned the manner of mixing the earth
-for the floor, over which powdered cockle-shells were strewn. All this
-required such attention that a special person was employed for the
-purpose, who was called the cockle-strewer. In dry weather the surface
-was apt to turn to dust, and consequently to impede the flight of the
-ball, so that the cockle-strewer's office was by no means a sinecure.
-Richard Blome, writing in 1673, asserts that this mall was "said to
-be the best in Christendom," but Evelyn claims the pre-eminence for
-that at Tours, with its seven rows of tall elms, as "the noblest in
-Europe for length and shade." The game is praised by Sir R. Dallington
-"because it is a gentlemanlike sport, not violent, and yields good
-occasion and opportunity of discourse as they walke from one marke to
-the other," and Joseph Lauthier, who wrote a treatise on the subject,
-entitled _Le Jeu de Mail_, Paris, 1717 (which is now extremely scarce),
-uses the same form of recommendation.
-
-The chief requisites for the game were mallets, balls, two arches or
-hoops, one at either end of the mall, and a wooden border marked
-so as to show the position of the balls when played. The mallets
-were of different size and form to suit the various players, and
-Lauthier directs that the weight and height of the mallet should be in
-proportion to the strength and stature of the player. The balls were of
-various sizes and weights, and each size had its distinct name. In damp
-weather, when the soil was heavy, a lighter ball was required than when
-the soil was sandy. A gauge was used to ascertain its weight, and the
-weight of the mallet was adjusted to that of the ball. The arch or pass
-was about two feet high and two inches wide. The one at the west end
-of St. James's Park remained in its place for many years, and was not
-cleared away until the beginning of the reign of George III. In playing
-the game, the mallet was raised above the head and brought down with
-great force so as to strike the ball to a considerable distance. The
-poet Waller describes Charles II.'s stroke in the following lines:--
-
- "Here a well-polished Mall gives us joy,
- To see our prince his matchless force employ.
- No sooner has he touch'd the flying ball,
- But 'tis already more than half the Mall;
- And such a fury from his arm has got,
- As from a smoking culverin 'twere shot."
-
-Considerable skill and practice were required in the player, who, while
-attempting to make the ball skate along the ground with speed, had to
-be careful that he did not strike it in such a manner as to raise it
-from the ground. This is shown by what Charles Cotton writes:--
-
- "But playing with the boy at Mall
- (I rue the time and ever shall),
- I struck the ball, I know not how,
- (For that is not the play, you know),
- A pretty height into the air."
-
-This boy was, perhaps, a caddie, for it will be seen that the game was
-a sort of cross between golf and croquet.
-
-Lauthier describes four ways of playing at pall mall, viz.:--(1) the
-_rouet_, or pool game; (2) _en partie_, a match game; (3) _à grands
-coups_, at long shots; and (4) _chicane_, or hockey. Moreover, he
-proposes a new game to be played like billiards.
-
-We may now pass from St. James's Park to Hyde Park, which became a
-place of public resort in the reigns of James I. and Charles I. It was
-then considered to be quite a country place. Ben Jonson mentions in
-the Prologue to his comedy, _The Staple of News_ (1625), the number of
-coaches which congregated there, and Shirley describes the horse-races
-in his comedy entitled _Hide Parke_ (1637).
-
-The park, being Crown property, was sold by order of Parliament in 1652
-for about £17,000 in three lots, the purchasers being Richard Wilcox,
-John Tracy, and Anthony Deane. Cromwell was a frequent visitor, and on
-one occasion when he was driving in the park his horses ran away, and
-he was thrown off his coach.
-
-After the Restoration the park was the daily resort of all the
-gallantry of the court, and Pepys found driving there very pleasant,
-although he complained of the dust. The Ring, which is described in
-Grammont's _Memoirs_ as "the rendezvous of magnificence and beauty,"
-was a small enclosure of trees round which the carriages circulated.
-
-Pepys writes April 4th, 1663:--
-
- "After dinner to Hide Park ... At the Park was the King and in
- another coach my Lady Castlemaine, they greeting one another
- at every tour."
-
-This passage is illustrated in Wilson's _Memoirs_, 1719, where we are
-told that when the coaches "have turned for some time round one way,
-they face about and turn t'other."
-
-John Macky, in his _Journey through England_ (1724), affirms that in
-fine weather he had seen above three hundred coaches at a time making
-"the Grand Tour."
-
-Cosmo tells of the etiquette which was observed among the company:--
-
- "The King and Queen are often there, and the duke and duchess,
- towards whom at the first meeting and no more all persons show
- the usual marks of respect, which are afterwards omitted,
- although they should chance to meet again ever so often, every
- one being at full liberty, and under no constraint whatever,
- and to prevent the confusion and disorder which might arise
- from the great number of lackies and footmen, these are not
- permitted to enter Hyde Park, but stop at the gate waiting for
- their masters."
-
-Oldys refers to a poem, printed in sixteen pages, which was entitled
-"The Circus, or British Olympicks: a Satyr on the Ring in Hyde Park."
-He says that the poem satirizes many well-known fops under fictitious
-names, and he raises the number of coaches seen on a fine evening from
-Macky's three hundred to a thousand. The Ring was partly destroyed at
-the time the Serpentine was formed by Caroline, Queen of George II.
-
-Although the Ring has disappeared, Hyde Park has remained from the
-Restoration period until the present day the most fashionable place in
-London, but now the whole park has been utilized.
-
-Charles II., in reviving the Stage, specially patronised it himself,
-and it may be referred to here from its connection with the Court.
-It has already been noticed that previous monarchs did not visit the
-public theatres.
-
-Pepys was an enthusiastic playgoer, and the _Diary_ contains a mass of
-information respecting the Stage not elsewhere to be found, so that we
-are able to trace the various advances made in the revival of the Stage
-from the incipient attempt of Davenant before the Restoration to the
-improvements in scenery introduced by the rivalry of the two managers,
-Davenant and Killigrew. Immediately after the Restoration two companies
-of actors were organized, who performed at two different houses. One
-theatre was known as the King's House, called by Pepys "The Theatre,"
-and the other as the Duke's House, called by Pepys "The Opera." Sir
-William Davenant obtained a patent for his company as "The Duke's
-Servants," named after the Duke of York, and Thomas Killigrew obtained
-one for "The King's Servants."
-
-Killigrew's Company first performed at the "Red Bull," Clerkenwell, and
-on November 8th removed to Gibbons's Tennis Court in Bear Yard, which
-was entered from Vere Street, Clare Market. Here the Company remained
-till 1663, when they removed to Drury Lane Theatre, which had been
-built for their reception, and was opened on May 7th.
-
-Davenant's Company first performed at the Cockpit, Drury Lane. They
-began to play at Salisbury Court Theatre on November 13th, 1660, and
-went to Cobham House, Blackfriars, on the site afterwards occupied
-by Apothecaries' Hall, in January, 1661. They then removed to the
-theatre in Portugal Row, built on the site of Lisle's Tennis Court.
-Rhodes, a bookseller, who had formerly been wardrobe keeper at the
-Blackfriars, had managed in 1659 to obtain a licence from the State,
-and John Downes affirms that his company acted at the Cockpit, but
-apparently he was acting at the Salisbury Court Theatre before Davenant
-went there. Killigrew, however, soon succeeded in suppressing Rhodes.
-Davenant planned a new building in Dorset Gardens, which was close
-to Salisbury Court, where the former theatre was situated. He died,
-however, before it was finished, but the company removed there in 1671,
-and the theatre was opened on the 9th of November with Dryden's play,
-_Sir Martin Mar-all_, which he had improved from a rough draft by the
-Duke of Newcastle. Pepys had seen it seven times in the years 1667-68.
-The Lincoln's Inn Fields Theatre remained shut up until February, 1672,
-when the King's Company, burnt out of Drury Lane Theatre, made use of
-it till March, 1674, by which time the new building in Brydges Street,
-Covent Garden, was ready for their occupation.
-
-When Tom Killigrew died in 1682 the King's and the Duke's companies
-were united, and the Duke's servants removed from Dorset Gardens to
-Drury Lane. The two companies performed together for the first time on
-November 16th.
-
-These constant changes are very confusing, and the recital of them is
-not very entertaining, but it is necessary to make the matter clear
-for the proper understanding of the history of the time. The plan of
-the old theatres, with their platform stage, was no longer of use for
-the altered arrangements introduced at the Restoration. Successive
-improvements in the form of the houses were made, but we learn from
-Pepys that it was some time before the roofing of the building was
-water-tight.
-
-The public theatres were open in the afternoon, three o'clock being the
-usual hour for performance, and the plays were therefore partly acted
-in the summer by daylight. It was thus necessary to have skylights, but
-these were so slight that heavy rain came and wetted those below. On
-June 1st, 1664, Pepys wrote:--
-
- "Before the play was done it fell such a storm of hail that we
- in the middle of the pit were fain to rise, and all the house
- in a disorder."
-
-Davenant was the original planner of the modern stage and its scenery,
-but Killigrew did his part in the improvement carried out. He was
-somewhat jealous of his brother manager, and on one occasion he
-explained to Pepys what he himself had done:--
-
- "Feb. 12th, 1666-67. The stage is now by his pains a thousand
- times better and more glorious than ever heretofore. Now, wax
- candles, and many of them; then not above 3 lbs. of tallow:
- now all things civil, no rudeness anywhere; then as in a bear
- garden: then two or three fiddlers, now nine or ten of the
- best: then nothing but rushes upon the ground, and everything
- else mean; and now all otherwise; then the Queen seldom and
- the King never would come; now, not the King only for State
- but all civil people do think they may come as well as any."
-
-Killigrew complained that "the audience at his house was not above half
-as much as it used to be before the late fire," but in the following
-year (February 6th, 1667-8) there were crowds at the other house. Pepys
-relates:--
-
- "Home to dinner, and my wife being gone before, I to the Duke
- of York's playhouse; where a new play of Etheridge's called
- 'She Would if she Could,' and though I was there by two
- o'clock, there were 1,000 people put back that could not have
- room in the pit."
-
-Pepys's criticisms on the plays he saw acted at these theatres were not
-always satisfactory, and often they were contradictory. At the same
-time he was apparently judicious in the disposal of praise and blame
-on the actors he saw. Betterton was his ideal of the perfect actor,
-and, so far as it is possible to judge as to one who lived so long ago,
-public opinion formed by those capable of judging from contemporary
-report seems to be in agreement with that of Pepys.
-
-Pepys was a great frequenter of taverns and inns, as were most of his
-contemporaries. There are about one hundred and thirty London taverns
-mentioned in the _Diary_, but time has swept away nearly all of these
-houses, and it is difficult to find any place which Pepys frequented.
-
-These taverns may be considered as a link between the Court end of
-London and the city, for Pepys distributed his favours between the two
-places. King Street, Westminster, was full of inns, and Pepys seems to
-have frequented them all. Two of them--the "Dog" and the "Sun"--are
-mentioned in Herrick's address to the shade of "Glorious Ben":--
-
- "Ah, Ben!
- Say how or when
- Shall we thy guests
- Meet at these feasts
- Made at the Sun,
- The Dog, the Triple Tunne?
- Where we such clusters had
- As made us nobly wild, not mad!
- And yet such verse of thine
- Outdid the meate, outdid the frolic wine."
-
-The "Three Tuns" at Charing Cross, visited by Pepys, was probably the
-same house whose sign Herrick changes to "Triple Tun."
-
-Among the Westminster taverns may be mentioned "Heaven" and "Hell," two
-places of entertainment at Westminster Hall; the "Bull Head" and the
-"Chequers" and the "Swan" at Charing Cross; the "Cock" in Bow Street
-and the "Fleece" in York Street, Covent Garden; the "Canary" house by
-Exeter Change; and the "Blue Balls" in Lincoln's Inn Fields.
-
-The majority of these taverns patronised by Pepys were, however, in
-the city. There were several "Mitres" in London, but perhaps the most
-interesting one was that kept in Fenchurch Street by Daniel Rawlinson,
-a staunch royalist, who, when Charles I. was executed, hung his sign in
-mourning. Thomas Hearne says that naturally made him suspected by the
-Roundheads, but "endeared him so much to the Churchmen that he throve
-amain and got a good estate." His son, Sir Thomas Rawlinson, was Lord
-Mayor in 1700, and President of Bridewell Hospital. His two grandsons,
-Thomas and Richard Rawlinson, hold an honourable place in the roll
-of eminent book collectors. The "Samson" in St. Paul's Churchyard
-was another famous house, as also the "Dolphin" in Tower Street, a
-rendezvous of the Navy officers, which provided very good and expensive
-dinners.
-
-The "Cock" in Threadneedle Street was an old-established house when
-Pepys visited it on March 7th, 1659-60, and it lasted till 1840, when
-it was cleared away. In the eighteenth century it was a constant
-practice for the frequenters of the "Cock" to buy a chop or steak at
-the butcher's and bring it to be cooked, the charge for which was one
-penny. Fox's friend, the notorious Duke of Norfolk, known as "Jockey of
-Norfolk," often bought his chop and brought it here to be cooked, until
-his rank was discovered.
-
-The meetings of the Royal Society were held at Gresham College in
-Bishopsgate Street, and then at Arundel House in the Strand, which was
-lent to the Society by Henry Howard of Norfolk, afterwards Duke of
-Norfolk. Cosmo of Tuscany visited the latter place for a meeting of the
-Royal Society, and he gives in his _Travels_ an interesting account of
-the manner in which the proceedings were carried out.
-
-There are many references in Pepys's _Diary_ to the Lord Mayor and the
-Rulers of the City, and of the customs carried out there.
-
-The Lord Mayor, aldermen, and common councilmen visited Cosmo, who
-was staying at Lord St. Alban's mansion in St. James's Square. His
-Highness, having dined with the King at the Duke of Buckingham's, kept
-the city magnates waiting for a time, but Colonel Gascoyne, "to make
-the delay less tedious, had accommodated himself to the national taste
-by ordering liquor and amusing them with drinking toasts, till it was
-announced that His Highness was ready to give them audience." The
-description of the audience is very interesting.
-
-Pepys lived in the city at the Navy Office in Seething Lane (opposite
-St. Olave's, Hart Street, the church he attended) during the whole of
-the time he was writing his _Diary_, but when he was Secretary of the
-Admiralty he went, in 1684, to live at the end of Buckingham Street,
-Strand, in a house on the east side which looks on to the river.
-
-Mr. John Eliot Hodgkin possesses the original lease (dated September
-30th, 1687) from the governor and company of the New River for a supply
-of water through a half-inch pipe, and four small cocks of brass led
-from the main pipe in Villiers Street to Samuel Pepys's house in York
-Buildings, also a receipt for two quarters' rent for the same.[8]
-
-Two of the greatest calamities that could overtake any city occurred
-in London during the writing of the _Diary_, and were fully described
-by Pepys--viz., the Plague of 1665 and the Fire of 1666. Defoe's most
-interesting history of the plague year was written in 1722 at second
-hand, for the writer was only two years old when this scourge overran
-London. Pepys wrote of what he saw, and as he stuck to his duty during
-the whole time that the pestilence continued, he saw much that occurred.
-
-England was first visited with the plague in 1348-49, which, since 1833
-(when Hecker's work on the _Epidemics of the Middle Ages_ was first
-published in English), has been styled the Black Death--a translation
-of the German term "Der Schwarze Tod." This plague had the most
-momentous effect upon the history of England on account of the fearful
-mortality it caused. It paralysed industry, and permanently altered
-the position of the labourer. The statistics of the writers of the
-Middle Ages are of little value, and the estimates of those who died
-are various, but the statement that half the population of England died
-from the plague is probably not far from the truth. From 1348 to 1665
-plague was continually occurring in London, but it has not appeared
-since the last date, except on a small scale. Dr. Creighton gives
-particulars of the visitations in London in 1603, 1625, and 1665, from
-which it appears that the mortality in 1665 was more than double that
-in 1603, and about a third more than that in 1625.
-
-On the 7th of June, 1665, Pepys for the first time saw two or three
-houses marked with the red cross, and the words "Lord, have mercy upon
-us" upon the doors, and the sight made him feel so ill-at-ease that he
-was forced to buy some roll tobacco to smell and chew.[9] On the 27th
-of this month he writes: "The plague encreases mightily."
-
-According to the Bills of Mortality, the total number of deaths in
-London for the week ending June 27th was 684, of which number 267
-were deaths from the plague. The number of deaths rose week by week
-until September 19th, when the total was 8,297, and the deaths from
-the plague 7,165. On September 26th the total had fallen to 6,460, and
-deaths from the plague to 5,533. The number fell gradually, week by
-week, till October 31st, when the total was 1,388, and the deaths from
-the plague 1,031. On November 7th there was a rise to 1,787 and 1,414
-respectively. On November 14th the numbers had gone down to 1,359 and
-1,050 respectively. On December 12th the total had fallen to 442, and
-deaths from plague to 243. On December 19th there was a rise to 525 and
-281 respectively. The total of burials in 1665 was 97,306, of which
-number the plague claimed 68,596 victims. Most of the inhabitants of
-London who could get away took the first opportunity of escaping from
-the town, and in 1665 there were many places that the Londoner could
-visit with considerable chance of safety. The court went to Oxford, and
-afterwards came back to Hampton Court before venturing to return to
-Whitehall. The clergy and the doctors fled with very few exceptions,
-and several of those who stayed in town doing the duty of others, as
-well as their own, fell victims to the scourge.
-
-Queen Elizabeth would have none of these removals. Stow says that
-in the time of the plague of 1563, "a gallows was set up in the
-Market-place of Windsor to hang all such as should come there from
-London."
-
-Dr. Hodges, author of _Loimologia_, enumerates among those who assisted
-in the dangerous work of restraining the progress of the infection were
-the learned Dr. Gibson, Regius Professor at Cambridge; Dr. Francis
-Glisson, Dr. Nathaniel Paget, Dr. Peter Barwick, Dr. Humphrey Brookes,
-etc. Of those he mentions eight or nine fell in their work, among whom
-was Dr. William Conyers, to whose goodness and humanity he bears the
-most honourable testimony. Dr. Alexander Burnett, of Fenchurch Street,
-one of Pepys's friends, was another of the victims.
-
-Of those to whom honour is due special mention must be made of Monk,
-Duke of Albemarle, Evelyn, Pepys, Edmond Berry Godfrey; and there were,
-of course, others.
-
-The Duke of Albemarle stayed at the Cockpit; Evelyn sent his wife and
-family to Wotton, but he remained in town himself, and had very arduous
-duties to perform, for he was responsible for finding food and lodging
-for the prisoners of war, and he found it difficult to get money for
-these purposes. He tells in his _Diary_ how he was received by Charles
-II. and the Duke of York on January 29th, 1665-6, when the pestilence
-had partly abated and the court had ventured from Oxford to Hampton
-Court. The King
-
- "... ran towards me, and in a most gracious manner gave
- me his hand to kisse, with many thanks for my care and
- faithfulnesse in his service in a time of such greate danger,
- when everybody fled their employment; he told me he was much
- obliged to me, and said he was several times concerned for me,
- and the peril I underwent, and did receive my service most
- acceptably (though in truth I did but do my duty, and O that
- I had performed it as I ought!) After that his Majesty was
- pleased to talke with me alone, neere an houre, of severall
- particulars of my employment and ordered me to attend him
- againe on the Thursday following at Whitehall. Then the Duke
- came towards me, and embraced me with much kindnesse, telling
- me if he had thought my danger would have been so greate,
- he would not have suffered his Majesty to employ me in that
- station."
-
-Pepys refers, on May 1st, 1667, to his visit to Sir Robert Viner's, the
-eminent goldsmith, where he saw "two or three great silver flagons,
-made with inscriptions as gifts of the King to such and such persons
-of quality as did stay in town [during] the late plague for keeping
-things in order in the town, which is a handsome thing." Godfrey was
-a recipient of a silver tankard, and he was knighted by the King in
-September, 1666, for his efforts to preserve order in the Great Fire.
-The remembrance of his death, which had so great an influence on the
-spread of the "Popish Plot" terror, is greater than that of his public
-spirit during the plague and the fire.
-
-Pepys lived at Greenwich and Woolwich during the height of the plague,
-but he was constantly in London. How much these men must have suffered
-is brought very visibly before us in one of the best letters Pepys ever
-wrote:
-
- "To Lady Casteret, from Woolwich, Sept. 4, 1655. The absence
- of the court and emptiness of the city takes away all occasion
- of news, save only such melancholy stories as would rather
- sadden than find your ladyship any divertissement in the
- hearing. I have stayed in the city till about 7,400 died in
- one week, and of them above 6,000 of the plague, and little
- noise heard day or night but tolling of bells; till I could
- walk Lumber Street and not meet twenty persons from one end to
- the other, and not fifty on the Exchange; till whole families
- have been swept away; till my very physician, Dr. Burnett, who
- undertook to secure me against any infection, having survived
- the month of his own house being shut up, died himself of the
- plague; till the nights, though much lengthened, are grown
- too short to conceal the burials of those that died the day
- before, people thereby constrained to borrow daylight for that
- service; lastly, till I could find neither meat nor drink
- safe, the butchers being everywhere visited, my brewer's house
- shut up, and my baker, with his whole family, dead of the
- plague."
-
-[Illustration: THE GREAT FIRE OF LONDON.
-
-_The view shows Ludgate in the foreground, and in the distance St.
-Paul's Cathedral and the Tower of St. Mary-le-Bow._]
-
-Before the first calamity of pestilence was ended the second calamity
-of fire commenced. On the night of September 1st, 1666, many houses
-were destroyed. At three o'clock in the morning of the 2nd (Sunday)
-his servant Jane awoke Pepys to tell him that a great fire was raging.
-Not thinking much of the information, he went to sleep again, but when
-he rose at seven he found that about 300 houses had been burned in the
-night. He went first to the Tower, and saw the Lieutenant. Then he took
-boat to Whitehall to see the King. He tells of what he has seen, and
-says that, unless His Majesty will command houses to be pulled down,
-nothing can stop the fire. On hearing this the King instructs him to
-go to the Lord Mayor (Sir Thomas Bludworth) and command him to pull
-down houses in every direction. The Mayor seems to have been but a poor
-creature, and when he heard the King's message
-
- "... he cried like a fainting woman, 'Lord! what can I do? I
- am spent: people will not obey me. I have been pulling down
- houses, but the fire overtakes us faster than we can do it.'"
-
-Fortunately, most of the Londoners were more vigorous than the Mayor.
-The King and the Duke of York interested themselves in the matter, and
-did their best to help those who were busy in trying to stop the fire.
-Evelyn wrote on September 6th:--
-
- "It is not indeede imaginable how extraordinary the vigilance
- and activity of the King and the Duke was, even labouring
- in person, and being present to command, order, reward, or
- encourage workmen, by which he showed his affection to his
- people and gained theirs."
-
-Sir William Penn and Pepys were ready in resource, and saw to the
-blowing up of houses to check the spread of the flames, the former
-bringing workmen out of the dockyards to help in the work. During the
-period when it was expected that the Navy Office would be destroyed,
-Pepys sent off his money, plate, and most treasured property to Sir
-W. Rider, at Bethnal Green, and then he and Penn dug a hole in their
-garden, in which they put their wine and parmezan cheese.
-
-On the 10th of September, Sir W. Rider let it be known that, as the
-town is full of the report respecting the wealth in his house, he will
-be glad if his friends will provide for the safety of their property
-elsewhere.
-
-On September 5th, when Evelyn went to Whitehall, the King commanded him
-
- "... among the rest to looke after the quenching of Fetter
- Lane end, to preserve if possible that part of Holborn, whilst
- the rest of y^e gentlemen tooke their several posts, some
- at one part, some at another (for now they began to bestir
- themselves and not till now, who hitherto had stood as men
- intoxicated with their hands acrosse) and began to consider
- that nothing was likely to put a stop but the blowing up of
- so many houses as might make a wider gap than any had yet
- been made by the ordinary method of pulling them downe with
- engines."
-
-The daily records of the fire and of the movements of the people are
-most striking. Now we see the river crowded with boats filled with the
-goods of those who are houseless, and then we pass to Moorfields, where
-are crowds carrying their belongings about with them, and doing their
-best to keep these separate till some huts can be built to receive
-them. Soon paved streets and two-storey houses were seen in Moorfields,
-the city authorities having let the land on leases for seven years.
-
-The wearied people complained that their feet were "ready to burn"
-through walking in the streets "among the hot coals."
-
-(September 5th, 1666.) Means were provided to save the unfortunate
-multitudes from starvation, and on this same day proclamation was made
-
- "... ordering that for the supply of the distressed persons
- left destitute ... great proportions of bread be brought
- daily, not only to the former markets, but to those lately
- ordained. Churches and public places were to be thrown open
- for the reception of poor people and their goods."
-
-Westminster Hall was filled with "people's goods."
-
-On September 7th Evelyn went towards Islington and Highgate
-
- "... where one might have seen 200,000 people of all ranks
- and degrees dispers'd and lying along by their heapes of what
- they could save from the fire, deploring their losse, and tho'
- ready to perish for hunger and destitution yet not asking one
- penny for reliefe, which to me appear'd a stranger sight than
- any I had yet beheld."
-
-The fire was fairly got under on September 7th, but on the previous
-day Clothworkers' Hall was burning, as it had been for three days and
-nights, in one volume of flame. This was caused by the cellars being
-full of oil. How long the streets remained in a dangerous condition
-may be guessed by Pepys's mention, on May 16th, 1666-7, of the smoke
-issuing from the cellars in the ruined streets of London.
-
-The fire consumed about five-sixths of the whole city, and outside the
-walls a space was cleared about equal to an oblong square of a mile and
-a half in length and half a mile in breadth. Well might Evelyn say, "I
-went againe to y^e ruines for it was no longer a citty" (September
-10th, 1666).
-
-The destruction was fearful, and the disappearance of the grand old
-Cathedral of St. Paul's was among the most to be regretted of the
-losses. One reads these particulars with a sort of dulled apathy, and
-it requires such a terribly realistic picture as the following, by
-Evelyn, to bring the scene home to us in all its magnitude and horror:
-
- "The conflagration was so universal, and the people so
- astonish'd, that from the beginning I know not by what
- despondency or fate, they hardly stirr'd to quench it, so
- that there was nothing heard or seene but crying out and
- lamentation, running about like distracted creatures without
- at all attempting to save even their goods; such a strange
- consternation there was upon them, so as it burned both in
- breadth and length, the churches, public halls, Exchange,
- hospitals, monuments and ornaments, leaping after a prodigious
- manner, from house to house, and streete to streete, at greate
- distances one from y^e other; for y^e heat with a long
- set of faire and warm weather had even ignited the aire and
- prepared the materials to conceive the fire, which devour'd
- after an incredible manner houses, furniture, and every thing.
- Here we saw the Thames cover'd with goods floating, all the
- barges and boates laden with what some had time and courage to
- save, as, on y^e other, y^e carts, &c., carrying out to
- the fields, which for many miles were strew'd with moveables
- of all sorts, and tents erecting to shelter both people
- and what goods they could get away. Oh the miserable and
- calamitous spectacle! Such as haply the world had not seene
- since the foundation of it, nor be outdon till the universal
- conflagration thereof. All the skie was of a fiery aspect,
- like the top of a burning oven, and the light seene above 40
- miles round about for many nights. God grant mine eyes may
- never behold the like, who now saw above 10,000 houses all in
- one flame; the noise and cracking and thunder of the impetuous
- flames, y^e shrieking of women and children, the hurry of
- people, the fall of towers, houses and churches was like a
- hideous storme and the aire all about so hot and inflam'd that
- at the last one was not able to approach it, so that they were
- forc'd to stand still and let y^e flames burn on, which they
- did neere two miles in length and one in breadth. The clouds
- also of smoke were dismall and reach'd upon computation neer
- 50 miles in length. Thus I left it this afternoone burning, a
- resemblance of Sodom, or the last day. It forcibly call'd to
- mind that passage--_non enim hic habemus stabilem civitatem_:
- the ruines resembling the picture of Troy. London was, but is
- no more."--(Sept. 3rd, 1666.)
-
-Can we be surprised at the bewildered feelings of the people? Rather
-must we admire the practical and heroic conduct of the homeless
-multitude. It took long to rebuild the city, but directly anything
-could be done the workers were up and doing.
-
-An Act of Parliament was passed "for erecting a Judicature for
-determination of differences touching Houses burned or demolished by
-reason of the late Fire which happened in London" (18 and 19 Car. II.,
-cap. 7), and Sir Matthew Hale was the moving spirit in the planning it
-and in carrying out its provisions when it was passed. Burnet affirms
-that it was through his judgment and foresight "that the whole city
-was raised out of its ashes without any suits of law" (_History of
-his Own Time_, Book ii.). By a subsequent Act (18 and 19 Car. II.,
-cap. 8) the machinery for a satisfactory rebuilding of the city was
-arranged. The rulings of the judges appointed by these Acts gave
-general satisfaction, and after a time the city was rebuilt very much
-on the old lines, and things went on as before.[10] At one time it was
-supposed that the fire would cause a westward march of trade, but the
-city asserted the old supremacy when it was rebuilt.
-
-[Illustration: SOUTH-WEST VIEW OF OLD ST. PAUL'S.]
-
-Three great men, thoroughly competent to give valuable advice on the
-rebuilding of the city, viz., Wren, Robert Hooke, and Evelyn, presented
-to the King valuable plans for the best mode of arranging the new
-streets, but none of these schemes was accepted. One cannot but regret
-that the proposals of the great architect were not carried out.
-
-With the reference to the Plague and the Great Fire we may conclude
-this brief account of the later Stuart London. The picturesque, but
-dirty, houses were replaced by healthier and cleaner ones. The West
-End increased and extended its borders, but the growth to the north of
-Piccadilly was very gradual. All periods have their chroniclers, but
-no period has produced such delightful guides to the actual life of
-the town as the later half of the seventeenth century did in the pages
-of Evelyn and Pepys. It must ever be a sincere regret to all who love
-to understand the more intimate side of history that Pepys did not
-continue his _Diary_ to a later period. We must, however, be grateful
-for what we possess, and I hope this slight and imperfect sketch of
-Pepys's London may refresh the memories of my readers as to what the
-London of that time was really like.
-
-FOOTNOTES:
-
-[6] _Cal. State Papers_, 1603-10, p. 367.
-
-[7] During the time that the Jacobites were formidable, and long after,
-it was firmly believed that the Old Pretender was brought into this
-room as a baby in a warming pan, and plans of the room were common to
-show how the fraud was committed.
-
-[8] _Rariora_, vol. i., p. 17.
-
-[9] Originally the crosses were of a blue colour, but Dr. Creighton
-says that the colour was changed to red before the plague of 1603.
-
-[10] A full account of the fire and of the rebuilding of the city has
-still to be written, and the materials for the latter are to hand in
-the remarkable "Fire Papers" in the British Museum. I have long desired
-to work on this congenial subject, but having been prevented by other
-duties from doing so, I hope that some London expert will be induced
-to give the public a general idea of the contents of these valuable
-collections.
-
-
-
-
-THE OLD LONDON BRIDGES
-
-BY J. TAVENOR-PERRY
-
- "London Bridge is broken down,
- Dance o'er my Lady Lee.
- London Bridge is broken down
- With a gay Ladee."
-
-
-At the beginning of the last century only three bridges spanned the
-Thames in its course through London, and of these two were scarcely
-fifty years old; but before the century closed there were no less
-than thirteen bridges across the river between Battersea and the
-Pool. The three old bridges have been rebuilt, and even some of the
-later ones have been reconstructed, whilst one has been removed
-bodily, and now spans the gorge of the Avon at Bristol. Of all these
-bridges unfortunately only two are constructed wholly of stone, and
-can lay claim to any architectural merit; and even one of these two
-has recently had the happy effect of its graceful arches destroyed by
-the addition of overhanging pathways. Of the rest, some are frankly
-utilitarian--mere iron girder railway bridges, with no attempt at
-decoration beyond gilding the rivets--whilst the others have their
-iron arches and construction disguised with coarse and meaningless
-ornaments. One only of the iron bridges is in anyway worthy of its
-position; in its perfect simplicity and the bold spans of its three
-arches, Southwark Bridge bears comparison with the best in Europe, but
-the gradients and approaches are so inconvenient that it is even now
-threatened with reconstruction.
-
-[Illustration: SIR JOHN EVELYN'S PLAN FOR REBUILDING LONDON AFTER THE
-GREAT FIRE.]
-
-Exactly when the first bridge was built across the Thames at London
-we can only surmise, for even tradition is silent on the subject, and
-we only know of the existence of one at an early date by very casual
-references, which, however, do not help us to realise the character
-of the work. Though no evidence remains of a Roman bridge, it seems
-unlikely, having regard to the importance of London, and to the fact
-that the great roads from the south coast converged on a point opposite
-to it, on the other side of the river, that they should have been left
-to end there without a bridge to carry them over. The difficulties of
-building across a great tidal river had not prevented the Romans from
-bridging the Medway at Rochester, as remains actually discovered have
-proved; and if no evidences of Roman work were actually met with in the
-rebuilding of London Bridge or the removal of the old one, this may be
-due to the fact that each successive bridge--and there have been at
-least three within historical times--was built some distance further up
-the stream than its predecessor.
-
-We know, however, with certainty that a bridge was standing in the
-reign of King Ethelred from the references made to it, and we may
-fairly assume that this must have been the Roman bridge, at least so
-far as its main construction was concerned; and, like other Roman
-bridges standing at that time in Gaul and in other parts of England, it
-would have consisted merely of piers of masonry, with a wooden roadway
-passing from one to the other. It was still standing, of sufficient
-strength for resistance, when the Danes under Canute sailed up the
-river, who, being unable to force a passage, tradition says--and
-antiquaries have imagined they could discover traces of it--cut a ship
-canal through the Surrey marshes from Bermondsey to Battersea, and
-passed their fleet through that way.
-
-[Illustration: FIG. 1--THE UNDERCROFT OF ST. THOMAS OF CANTERBURY ON
-THE BRIDGE.]
-
-The history of the bridge only opens with the beginning of the twelfth
-century. According to tradition, the convent of St. Mary Overie,
-Southwark, had been originally endowed with the profits of a ferry
-across the river, and had in consequence undertaken the duty of
-maintaining the bridge in a proper state of repair when a bridge was
-built. This convent was refounded in 1106 as a priory of Austin Canons;
-and it is not a little remarkable, having regard to the duties it had
-undertaken, that of its founders, who were two Norman Knights, one was
-William de Pont de l'Arche. At the Norman town, where stood his castle
-and from which he took his name, was a bridge of twenty-two openings,
-erected, it was said, by Charles the Bald, but most likely a Roman
-work, across the Seine at the highest point reached by the tide. It
-is a further curious coincidence that this same William appears as a
-witness to a deed executed by Henry I., excusing the manor of Alciston,
-in Sussex, from paying any dues for the repairs of London Bridge.
-
-It is recorded that in 1136 the bridge was burnt, which may perhaps
-merely mean that the deck was destroyed, whilst the piers remained
-sufficiently uninjured to allow of the structure being repaired; but
-in 1163 it had become so dangerous that Peter of Colechurch undertook
-the erection of a new bridge, which he constructed of elm timber. This
-sudden emergence of Peter from obscurity to carry out so important an
-engineering work is as dramatic as is that of St. Bénezet, who founded
-the confraternity of _Hospitaliers pontifices_, which undertook the
-building of bridges and the establishment of ferries. According to
-legend, this saint, although then only a young shepherd, essayed to
-bridge the Rhone at Avignon, and the ruined arches of his great work
-are still among the sights of that city. Peter may have possessed
-many more qualifications for building than a shepherd could have
-acquired, as large ecclesiastical works were in progress in London
-throughout his life, which he must have observed and perhaps profited
-by; but this is only surmise, as of his history, except in connection
-with his great work, we know no more than the fact that he was the
-chaplain of St. Mary Colechurch. His contemporary, Randulphus de
-Decito, Dean of London, says that he was a native of the city, so
-that it is scarcely likely that he had acquired his skill abroad; but
-we are told that he traversed the country to collect the moneys for
-his undertaking, and he may thus have obtained some knowledge of the
-many Roman bridges which still survived, or even have seen the great
-bridge which Bishop Flambard had recently erected across the Wear
-at Durham. His selection as the architect of the earlier bridge of
-1163 may perhaps not be due in any way to his especial engineering
-skill, but rather to some intimate connection with the priory of St.
-Mary Overie, whose canons were primarily responsible for the bridge
-repairs; indeed, since he is merely described as the chaplain of his
-church, he may himself have been one of the canons. But be the cause
-what it may--and it was not his success in erecting this first bridge,
-for it soon became dilapidated--thirteen years after its erection he
-started afresh, on a site further up the river, to erect a bridge of
-stone. In 1176, two years before St. Bénezet began his great bridge at
-Avignon, he commenced his work, and thirty-three years passed before
-its completion. Whether the delay was due to lack of funds or the
-incapacity of the architect we do not know, though probably to both,
-for before Peter's death King John, who had manifested considerable
-interest in the new bridge, had urged Peter's dismissal, and, under the
-advice of the Archbishop of Canterbury, suggested the appointment of
-Isembert of Saintes to complete the work. This Isembert was credited
-with the erection of the great bridge across the Charante at Saintes,
-although that bridge was undoubtedly a Roman one, and all he appears to
-have done was to turn arches between the original piers, and make it a
-stone bridge throughout. The same master was said to have built another
-bridge at La Rochelle, and had evidently gained much experience in
-such engineering work; and it is perhaps a misfortune that the King's
-advice was neglected, as a skilled architect, which Peter certainly
-was not, might have saved the city of London much eventual loss and
-trouble. Peter was, however, suffered to continue the bridge until his
-death in 1205, when a commission of three city merchants completed the
-work in four years.
-
-The bridge which these many years of labour had produced was in
-every way unsuitable to its position, and mean as compared to
-similar buildings erected elsewhere. Lacking the skill to form
-proper foundations, Peter had spread them out into wide piers, which
-formed an almost continuous dam, through the openings in which the
-water rushed like a mill-race. The result was that the scour soon
-affected the stability of the piers, which had to be protected round
-by masses of masonry and chalk in the form of sterlings, which still
-further contracted the narrow waterways. The passage of the bridge by
-boat--"shooting the bridge," it was called--was always a dangerous
-operation; and a writer of the last century speaks of "the noise of
-the falling waters, the clamours of the water-men, and the frequent
-shrieks of drowning wretches," in describing it. So imperfectly built
-was the bridge that within four years of its completion King John
-again interfered, and called upon the Corporation properly to repair
-it; and from this time, or perhaps from Peter's death, when the three
-merchants were elected to complete the work, the Corporation appears to
-have taken over the responsibility of the bridge; and for this purpose
-they were endowed with certain properties, which became the nucleus of
-the present "Bridge House Estates." The increasing dilapidation of the
-bridge, the debris of fallen arches, and the rubbish and waste material
-which was suffered to accumulate, still further impeded the natural
-flow of the water, and little effort at improvement was ever made. Of
-the three widest arches of the bridge, which were called the navigable
-locks, the most important had been the one nearest to the city end,
-which became known as the "Rock Lock," and it acquired that name on
-account of a popular delusion that in its fairway was a growing and
-vegetating rock, which was nothing more than an accumulation of fallen
-ruins, which caught and held the floating refuse carried to and fro by
-the tides. And thus year after year the river dam became more solid,
-and the waterfall increased in height until it was said by one who knew
-them both that it was almost as safe to attempt the Falls of Niagara as
-to shoot London Bridge.
-
-As years went by, not only did the waterways become congested, but the
-roadway above began to be encroached on by houses and other buildings,
-for which a bridge was most unfitted. Two edifices, however, from the
-first formed necessary, or at least customary, adjuncts to such a
-building--the bridge gate and the bridge chapel. It was a Roman custom
-to erect gates at one end, or in the centre of their bridges--not
-triumphal arches, but twin gates, such as they built to their walled
-towns, and such as stood at the end of the bridge at Saintes, when it
-was altered by Isembert. Such gates as survived in mediæval times were
-generally fortified, and formed the model for imitation by mediæval
-builders; and such a gate was erected at the Southwark end of London,
-which, under its name of Bridge Gate, became one of the principal gates
-of the city. It was erected directly on one of the main piers, and was
-therefore of a substantial character, but suffered much in the various
-attacks made upon London from the Kentish side. In 1436 it collapsed,
-together with the Southwark end of the bridge, but was rebuilt at
-the cost of the citizens, chief among whom was Sir John Crosby, the
-builder of Crosby House; and although the gate was again in great part
-destroyed by the attack on London made in 1471 by Fauconbridge, one of
-the towers of Crosby's gate survived until the eighteenth century. In
-1577 the tower which stood at the north end of the bridge, and on which
-were usually displayed the heads of traitors, became so dilapidated
-that it was taken down, and the heads then on it were transferred to
-the Bridge Gate, henceforward known as "Traitors' Gate." It was upon
-the earlier gate that the head of Sir Thomas More was affixed, when
-heads were so common that even his, as we know from its adventures
-until buried in the Roper vault at Canterbury, was thrown into the
-river to make room for a crowd of successors.
-
-[Illustration: FIG. 2--THE SURREY END OF LONDON BRIDGE.]
-
-Of the chapel, which the founder of the bridge is said to have erected,
-no account survives; and although it was believed at the time of
-the destruction of the bridge that his remains were discovered, no
-satisfactory evidence of their identity was forthcoming. The first
-chapel must have perished in one of the early misfortunes which befel
-the fabric, as no trace of any detail which could be referred to the
-thirteenth century was discovered when the pier on which the chapel
-stood was removed. The drawings made by Vertue before the last remains
-were cleared away show a structure which may be assigned to a date
-but little later than the Chapel Royal of St. Stephen at Westminster,
-to which, in many particulars, it must have borne a considerable
-resemblance. It consisted of two storeys, both apparently vaulted,
-measuring some sixty by twenty feet, with an apsidal termination. The
-undercroft was nearly twenty feet high, and our illustration (fig. 1)
-of a restoration of it, prepared from Vertue's drawings and dimensions,
-will give some idea of its beauty. The upper chapel seems to have been
-similar, but much more lofty, and had an arcade running round the walls
-under the windows. The buttresses of the exterior were crowned with
-crocketted pinnacles, and the effect of the whole, standing high above
-the surging waters of the river, must have been as striking as it was
-beautiful. The chapel was built on the centre pier of the bridge, on
-the east side, and the chapels were entered from the roadway, the lower
-one by a newel staircase, on which was found the holy-water stoup when
-the bridge was destroyed in the last century. At the Reformation the
-church was converted into a warehouse, but, thanks to the solidity of
-its construction, it remained almost intact till it was swept away with
-the houses in 1756.
-
-Of the other buildings on the bridge there is little to say, for,
-although they made up a picturesque composition, they were of a most
-flimsy character, and wanting at the last in any architectural merit.
-Our illustration (fig. 2), taken from an oil painting by Scott,
-belonging to the Fishmongers' Company, gives the principal group on the
-Surrey side, and in the sixth plate of Hogarth's _Marriage a la Mode_
-we get a view through the open window of another part in the last stage
-of dilapidation. There was, however, one exception to the commonplace
-among them, in a timber house, made in Holland, which was known as
-"Nonsuch House." It was erected, it was said, without nails, and placed
-athwart the roadway, hanging at the ends far over the river, with
-towers and spires at the angles, and over the great gate the arms of
-Queen Elizabeth. The top of the main front was surmounted, at a later
-date, with a pair of sundials, which bore the, for once, appropriate
-motto--"Time and Tide wait for no man."
-
-Had old London Bridge survived to this day, its waterfalls would
-doubtless have been utilized to generate electricity, and the idea of
-setting the Thames on fire realized in lighting the streets of London
-by its means; but the value of the force of the falling water was not
-overlooked by our ancestors. As early as 1582 one Peter Corbis, a
-Dutchman, erected an engine, worked by the stream, which lifted the
-water to a reservoir, whence it was distributed by means of leaden
-pipes through the city. With many alterations and improvements, these
-water works continued in use until the last century, and it was stated
-before the House of Commons, in 1820, that more than 26 millions of
-hogsheads of the pellucid waters of the river were thus daily delivered
-to the city householders for their domestic use.
-
-Such, shortly, is the history of the fabric, which, after enduring
-for more than six hundred years, was swept away to make room for the
-present structure. For any accounts of the many stirring events which
-occurred on it, or about it, we have no space here. Are they not
-written in the chronicles of England?
-
-In the Fishmongers' Hall is preserved a valuable memorial of the
-ancient structure, of which we give an illustration (fig. 3) by
-permission of the Worshipful Company. It consists of a chair with
-a seat of Purbeck marble, reminiscent in its arrangements of the
-coronation chair, on which is engraved this inscription:--
-
- "I am the first stone that was put down for the foundation of
- old London Bridge in June 1176 by a priest named Peter who was
- vicar of Colechurch in London and I remained there undisturbed
- safe on the same oak piles this chair is made from till the
- Rev^d. William John Jollife curate of Colmer Hampshire took
- me up in July 1832 when clearing away the old bridge after new
- London Bridge was completed."
-
-The framework of the chair gives a pictorial chronicle of the city
-bridges; the top rail of the back shows old London Bridge after the
-removal of the houses, below which are new London Bridge, Southwark and
-old Blackfriars Bridges. The arms of the city are carved at the top,
-whilst the monogram of Peter of Colechurch and the device of the Bridge
-House Estates complete the decoration. This device, which appears to
-have been also the old badge of Southwark, was sometimes displayed
-upon a shield, thus:--Az., an annulet ensigned with a cross patée, Or;
-interlaced with a saltire enjoined in base, of the second. We give an
-illustration of this in figure 5.
-
-[Illustration: FIG. 3--THE FOUNDATION STONE CHAIR.
-
-_At the Fishmongers' Hall._]
-
-Westminster Bridge seems a very recent structure as compared to that
-of London, but it is the next in point of date. The growing importance
-of Westminster as the seat of the Court and Parliament had made the
-necessity for an approach to the south side of the Thames, independent
-of the circuitous and narrow ways of London, long apparent. In the
-reign of Charles II. the question was seriously considered, to the
-alarm of the Mayor and Corporation of the city, who feared that
-their vested interests were endangered, and "that London would be
-destroyed if carts were allowed to cross the Thames elsewhere"; but,
-knowing their man, they devoted some of their ample funds to secure
-that monarch's successful opposition to the scheme. In the middle
-of the eighteenth century, however, when there was no Stuart to buy
-off, the idea was revived, and in 1739, one Monsieur Labelye, a
-Swiss engineer--English engineers having, apparently, not sufficient
-experience--commenced a new stone bridge. His mode of putting in his
-foundations may have been scientific, but was certainly simple. The
-bridge piers were partly built in floating barges moored above the
-place where they were to be permanently erected. The barges were then
-sunk, their sides knocked out, and the piers completed. It is needless
-to say that the result was not satisfactory, and for years before the
-old bridge was pulled down many of its arches were filled up with
-a picturesque, but inconvenient, mass of shoring. Whether Henry,
-Earl of Pembroke, who laid the foundation stone, and of whom it was
-said no nobleman had a purer taste in architecture, was in any way
-responsible for the design, we cannot tell; but a French traveller of
-discrimination, who criticised the work after its completion, came to
-the conclusion that the peculiarly lofty parapets with which the bridge
-was adorned were so designed that they might check an Englishman's
-natural propensity to suicide by giving him time for reflection while
-surmounting such an obstacle. It will be noticed in our illustration
-(fig. 4), which is also taken from a painting by Scott, that the piers
-are crowned by alcoves, which provided a shelter from the blasts which
-blew over the river and from the mud scattered from the roadway. These
-were, doubtless, a survival of the spaces left above the cutwaters
-of mediæval bridges as refuges for pedestrians from vehicles when
-the roadways were very narrow, and those who remember the old wooden
-bridges of Battersea and Putney can appreciate their value.
-
-The city Corporation, which had so strenuously opposed the erection
-of a bridge at Westminster as unnecessary, set to work, as soon as
-that became an accomplished fact, to improve their own communications
-across the river. First, as we have seen, they cleared away the houses
-and other obstructions on old London Bridge, and next they started to
-build themselves a new bridge at Blackfriars. The land on both sides
-of the river at the point selected was very low and most unsuitable
-for the approaches, that on the north side being close to the mouth
-of the Fleet ditch, which there formed a creek large enough, in 1307,
-to form a haven for ships. The new bridge was begun in 1760, from the
-designs of Robert Mylne, a Scotch architect, who made an unsuccessful
-attempt to give an architectural effect to the structure by facing the
-piers with pairs of Ionic columns, standing on the cutwaters. The steep
-gradients of the bridge, necessitated by the lowness of the banks, made
-such a decoration peculiarly unsuitable, as each pair of columns had to
-be differently proportioned in height, although the cornice over them
-remained of the same depth throughout. But, in spite of its appearance
-of lightness, the structure was too heavy for its foundations, and for
-years this bridge rivalled that of Westminster in the picturesqueness
-of its dilapidation. The piers had been built on platforms of timber,
-so that when London Bridge was rebuilt, and the river flowed in an
-unchecked course, these became exposed to the scour and were soon
-washed out.
-
-[Illustration: FIG. 4--OLD WESTMINSTER BRIDGE.]
-
-Waterloo Bridge was completed in 1817, and still remains unaltered
-and as sound as when its builders left it. It is fortunate that the
-approach on the north side was an easy one, as but a short interval
-occurred between the Strand, at almost its highest point, and the river
-bank, which it was easy to fill up, with the result that the bridge
-passes across the river at a perfect level. The foundations of the
-piers were properly constructed by means of coffer-dams, and no sign
-of failure has ever shown itself in its superstructure. The architect
-repeated the use of the orders, as at Blackfriars, but with a more
-fortunate result, as, the work being straight throughout, no variations
-in the proportions were required, and he was wise enough to select the
-Doric order as more suitable to his purpose, and as suggesting more
-solidity.
-
-Londoners profess to be somewhat proud of Waterloo Bridge, and it is
-a tradition among them that Canova, when he saw it, said that it was
-worth a journey across Europe to see. It, therefore, seems the more
-incredible that the grandchildren of those who could build such a
-bridge and appreciate such a man, could have erected, and even affect
-to admire, such a monstrosity as the Tower Bridge.
-
-The last of the older bridges to be built was that of Southwark, which
-was the speculation of a private company, who hoped to profit by the
-continuously congested state of London Bridge; but the steepness of
-the gradients and the inconvenience of the approaches from the city
-made it from the first a failure. It was the first bridge in London to
-be constructed in iron; its model being the great single-span bridge
-across the Wear at Sunderland. It is in three great arches, the centre
-one being 240 feet across, or four feet more than that at Sunderland,
-and the mass of metal is such that an ordinary change of temperature
-will raise the arches an inch, and summer sunshine much more.
-
-Of the more recent bridges there is nothing to say worth the saying.
-The Thames, which was the busy and silent highway of our forefathers,
-is still silent, but busy no longer, and the appearance of its bridges
-is now no one's concern, since no one sees them. So long as they will
-safely carry the tramcar or the motor 'bus from side to side, they may
-become uglier even than they now are, if only that make them a little
-more cheap.
-
-[Illustration: FIG. 5--BADGE OF BRIDGE HOUSE ESTATES.]
-
-
-
-
-THE CLUBS OF LONDON
-
-BY SIR EDWARD BRABROOK, C.B., F.S.A.
-
-
-These are of many kinds. We suppose they are all more or less the
-lineal descendants of the taverns and coffee-houses that we associate
-with the memory of Ben Jonson, Dryden, Addison, and Samuel Johnson.
-
- "Souls of poets dead and gone,
- What elysium have ye known,
- Happy field or mossy cavern,
- Choicer than the Mermaid tavern?"
-
-The wits' coffee-house, where Claud Halcro carried a parcel for Master
-Thimblethwaite in order to get a sight of glorious John Dryden.
-Button's coffee-house, where the "Guardian" set up his Lion's Head. The
-Cock and the Cheshire Cheese, which resound with Johnson's sonorous
-echoes. If, indeed, the tavern has developed into the club, that palace
-of luxury, one can only say, as in the famous transmutation of alphana
-to equus, "C'est diablement changé sur la route."
-
-Intermediate is the host of clubs meeting occasionally, as the
-Breakfast Club, and the numerous dining clubs, one of which, the Royal
-Naval Club, established in 1765, is said to be a renewal of an earlier
-one dating from 1674. "The Club," which comes down from the time of
-Johnson and Reynolds, and still uses a notification to a new member
-drawn up by Gibbon; the Royal Society Club; the X Club, which consisted
-of ten members of the Athenæum; the Society of Noviomagus, and the
-Cocked Hat Club, consisting of members of the Society of Antiquaries;
-the Cosmos Club of the Royal Geographical Society; the Colquhoun Club
-of the Royal Society of Literature; and a host of others in connection
-with learned societies, most of which are content to add the word
-"club" to the name of the society. Of another, but cognate, kind is
-the famous "Sublime Society of Beef Steaks," which was founded in
-1735, and died (of inanition) in 1867. The members were not to exceed
-twenty-four in number. Beef steaks were to be the only meat for dinner.
-The broiling began at 2.0, and the tablecloth was removed at 3.30. In
-1785 the Prince of Wales, in 1790 the Duke of York, in 1808 the Duke of
-Sussex, became members. It had a laureate bard in the person of Charles
-Morris, elected a member in 1785, who died in 1838 at the age of 93
-years. In early times the members appeared in the uniform of a blue
-coat and buff waistcoat, with brass buttons bearing a gridiron and the
-motto "Beef and Liberty." The hour of meeting became later gradually,
-till in 1866 it was fixed at 8 o'clock; then the club quickly died out.
-Founded by John Rich, harlequin and machinist at Covent Garden, it had
-counted among its members William Hogarth, David Garrick, John Wilkes,
-John Kemble, William Linley, Henry Brougham (Lord Chancellor), and many
-other distinguished men. The Ettrick Shepherd gave an account, in 1833,
-of a visit he paid to this club:--
-
- "They dine solely on beefsteaks--but what glorious beefsteaks!
- They do not come up all at once--no, nor half-a-dozen times;
- but up they come at long intervals, thick, tender, and as hot
- as fire. And during these intervals the members sit drinking
- their port, and breaking their wicked wit on each other, so
- that every time a new service of steaks came up, we fell to
- them with much the same zest as at the beginning. The dinner
- was a perfect treat--a feast without alloy."
-
-Another somewhat similar club, though on a more modest scale, deserves
-a cursory notice, inasmuch as it had to do with a state of things
-that has passed away beyond hope of recovery. About 1870 the August
-Society of the Wanderers was established with the motto, "Pransuri
-vagamur." It selected all the remaining old inns at which a dinner
-could be obtained, and dined at each in succession. It also had a bard,
-Dr. Joseph Samuel Lavies, and, like the Beefsteaks, has left a poetic
-record of its convivialities. Of all such records, however, the salt
-quickly evaporates, and it is as well to leave them unquoted.
-
-Our main object in this chapter is to state a few incidents in the
-history of some of the great London clubs. The oldest existing club
-appears to be White's, founded in 1697. Boodle's, Brooks's, the Cocoa
-Tree, and Arthur's date from 1762 to 1765. Most of the others belong to
-the nineteenth century. The Guards' Club, which was the first of the
-service clubs, dates from 1813, but that is confined to officers of the
-Brigade of Guards. It was soon, however, followed by the establishment
-of a club for officers of other branches of military service.
-
-We have it on good authority that before that club was founded officers
-who came to London had no places of call but the old hotels and
-coffee-houses. On May 31st, 1815, General Lord Lynedoch, Viscount Hill,
-and others united in the establishment of a General Military Club. On
-the 24th January, 1816, it was extended to the Navy, and on the 16th
-February in the same year it adopted the name of the United Service
-Club. On the 1st March, 1817, the foundation stone of its house in
-Charles Street was laid. In November, 1828, it entered into occupation
-of its present house in Pall Mall, and handed over the Charles Street
-house to the Junior United Service Club. Its premises in Pall Mall were
-largely extended in 1858-59, and have recently been greatly improved
-at a cost of £20,000. The Club holds a lease from the Crown to 4th
-January, 1964. It has a fine collection of eighty-two pictures and
-busts, many of them of great merit as works of art, others of interest
-as the only portraits of the originals. The library contains several
-splendid portraits of Royal personages. The King is the patron of
-the Club, and, as Prince of Wales, was a member of it. The Prince of
-Wales, the Duke of Connaught, and Prince Christian, are now members.
-Ten high officers of state and persons of distinction are honorary
-members. Twelve kings and thirty princes are foreign honorary members.
-The number of ordinary members is 1,600, but officers below the rank of
-Commander in the Royal Navy, or Major in the Army, are not eligible.
-The entrance fee is £30, and the annual subscription £10. Members have
-the privilege of introducing guests. Games of hazard are not allowed to
-be played, or dice to be used. Play is not to exceed 2s. 6d. points at
-whist, or 10s. per hundred at bridge.
-
-As we have seen, this club shortly became full, and a Junior United
-Service Club was formed in April, 1827, on the same lines, under the
-patronage of the Duke of Wellington, but admitted officers of junior
-rank, and in 1828 entered into occupation of the premises in Charles
-Street, vacated by the Senior, on payment of £15,000. It erected its
-new house in 1856 at a cost of £81,000. The entrance fee is £40, and
-annual subscription eight guineas. It was not many years after its
-establishment that the list of candidates for membership of the Junior
-Club became so long that the necessity for the establishment of a third
-service club was felt. Sir E. Barnes and a few officers, just returned
-from India, joined in the movement, and in 1838 the Army and Navy Club
-was opened at the corner of King Street and St. James's Square--the
-house memorable as the scene of the party given by Mrs. Boehm on the
-night the news of the Battle of Waterloo arrived. Sir E. Barnes, who
-was its first president, died the same year. In 1851 the club moved
-to its present stately building, the site of which includes that of a
-house granted by Charles II. on the 1st of April, in the seventeenth
-year of his reign, to Nell Gwynne, where Evelyn saw him in familiar
-discourse with her. The club possesses a mirror that belonged to her,
-and a portrait by Sir Peter Lely, which was supposed to be of her,
-until it was discovered to be one of Louise de Querouaille, Duchess
-of Portsmouth, and is also rich in pictures, statuary, and other
-works of art--among them, two fine mantelpieces carved by Canova,
-and a miniature of Lady Hamilton found in Lord Nelson's cabin after
-his death; it has also autograph letters of Nelson and Wellington.
-It derives its popular name of the "Rag and Famish" from a tradition
-that Captain Duff came late one night asking for supper, and being
-discontented with the bill of fare, called it a rag and famish affair.
-In memory of the event he designed a button which used to be worn by
-many members, and bore the device of a ragged man devouring a bone.
-Napoleon III. was an honorary member of the club, and frequently used
-it. He presented it with a fine piece of Gobelin tapestry in 1849. The
-regular number of members is 2,400. The club has a scheme for granting
-annuities or pensions to its servants.
-
-Of the group of social clubs bearing names derived from the original
-proprietors of the club-houses--as White's, Boodle's, Brooks's, and
-Arthur's--Brooks's may be taken as a specimen. A roll of its members
-from the date of its foundation in 1764 to 1900 has recently been
-published under the title _Memorials of Brooks's_, and contains much
-interesting information. The editors, Messrs. V. A. Williamson, S.
-Lyttelton and S. Simeon, state that the first London Clubs were
-instituted with the object of providing the world of fashion with a
-central office for making wagers, and a registry for recording them.
-In their early days gambling was unlimited. Brooks's was not political
-in its origin. The twenty-seven original members included the Dukes of
-Roxburgh, Portland, and Gordon. In the 136 years 3,465 members have
-been admitted.
-
-The original house was on or near the site of the present Marlborough
-Club, and Almack was the first manager or master. About 1774 he was
-succeeded by Brooks, from whom the club derives its name. He died in
-1782, and was succeeded by one Griffin. In 1795 the system was altered,
-and six managers were appointed. The present house in St. James' Street
-was constructed in 1889-90, when 2, Park Place, was incorporated
-with it. The entrance fee in 1791 was five guineas, and was raised
-successively in 1815, 1881, 1892, and 1901, to nine, fifteen,
-twenty-five and thirty guineas. The subscription was at first four
-guineas, raised in 1779 to eight guineas, and in 1791 to ten guineas.
-
-An offshoot of Brooks's is the Fox Club, a dining club, probably
-a continuation of an earlier Whig Club. Up to 1843 it met at the
-Clarendon Hotel, and since then at Brooks's. It is said to have been
-constituted for the purpose of paying Fox's debts, for which his
-friends, in 1793, raised £70,000. Sir Augustus Keppel Stephenson was
-the secretary of this club from 1867 until his death in 1904. He was
-the son of a distinguished member of Brooks's, who had joined that club
-in 1818, the Fox Club in 1829, was secretary of the Sublime Society of
-Beef Steaks, and the last man to wear Hessian boots.
-
-The Travellers' Club dates from 1819, the Union from 1821, and the
-United University from 1822.
-
-The Union Club is composed of noblemen, members of Parliament, and
-gentlemen of the first distinction and character who are British
-subjects, and has 1,250 members. Election is by open voting in the
-committee. Foreign and Colonial persons of distinction may be made
-temporary honorary members. The entrance fee is twenty-one guineas; the
-annual subscription ten guineas.
-
-The United University Club has 1,000 members, of whom 500 belong to
-Oxford and 500 to Cambridge. The King is a member. Cabinet ministers,
-bishops, judges, etc., may be admitted without ballot. All members of
-either University are qualified to be candidates, but only graduates,
-persons who have resided in college or hall for two years, holders
-of honorary degrees, and students in civil law of above three years'
-standing, are qualified to be members. The club has recently rebuilt
-its house at the corner of Suffolk Street and Pall Mall East.
-
-The Athenæum was originated by Mr. John Wilson Croker, after
-consultation with Sir Humphry Davy, president of the Royal Society,
-and was founded in 1824 for the association of individuals known for
-their scientific or literary attainments, artists of eminence in any
-class of the fine arts, and noblemen and gentlemen distinguished as
-liberal patrons of science, literature, or the arts. It is essential
-to the maintenance of the Athenæum, in conformity with the principles
-upon which it was originally founded, that the annual introduction
-of a certain number of persons of distinguished eminence in science,
-literature, or the arts, or for public services, should be secured.
-Accordingly, nine persons of such qualifications are elected by the
-committee each year. The club entrusts this privilege to the committee,
-in the entire confidence that they will only elect persons who shall
-have attained to distinguished eminence in science, literature, or the
-arts, or for public services. The General Committee may also elect
-princes of the blood Royal, cabinet ministers, bishops, speakers of
-the House of Commons, judges, and foreign ambassadors, or ministers
-plenipotentiary of not less than three years' residence at the Court of
-St. James's, to be extraordinary members; and may invite, as honorary
-members during temporary residence in England, the heads of foreign
-missions, foreign members of the Royal Society, and not more than
-fifteen other foreigners or colonists of distinction. The ordinary
-members of the club are 1,200 in number. The entrance fee is thirty
-guineas, and the annual subscription eight guineas. The presidents for
-the time being of the Royal Society, of the Society of Antiquaries, and
-of the Royal Academy of Arts, if members, are ex-officio members of the
-General Committee. An Executive Committee of nine is selected from the
-General Committee to manage the domestic and other ordinary affairs of
-the club. No elected member can remain on the General Committee more
-than three consecutive years, unless he is a member of the Executive
-Committee, in which case he may be re-elected for a second term of
-three years. No higher stake than half-a-guinea points shall be played
-for. No game of mere chance shall be played in the house for money. No
-member shall make use of the club as an address in any advertisement.
-
-The history of the club has been told by the Rev. J. G. Waugh in an
-interesting book printed for private circulation in 1900. Its first
-house was 12, Waterloo Place, where it remained until 1827, when it
-obtained its present site. Its success was so great that within four
-months of the preliminary meeting in 1824 it had a list of 506 members,
-including the then Prime Minister and seven persons who afterwards
-became Prime Ministers. By 1827 it was full, and had a list of 270
-candidates waiting for election. The present house was planned by
-Decimus Burton, and an attic storey was added to it in 1899-1900. It is
-a successful building, striking attention by the statue of Minerva over
-the porch, the frieze, and the noble hall and grand staircase. The hall
-was re-decorated in 1891 under the direction of Sir L. Alma Tadema.
-Originally, a soirée was held every Wednesday, to which ladies were
-admitted. That has long been discontinued, and, as a satirical member
-observed, "Minerva is kept out in the cold, while her owls are gorging
-within." Among the members of the club have been the following great
-actors: Macready, Mathews, Kemble, Terry, Kean, Young, and Irving.
-
-The Oriental Club was also established in 1824, at a meeting held eight
-days after that at which the Athenæum had been established. Sir John
-Malcolm presided. The club was intended for the benefit of persons
-who had been long resident abroad in the service of the Crown, or of
-the East India Company. By May, 1826, it had 928 members, and in that
-year it took possession of the site of 18, Hanover Square, and employed
-Mr. B. D. Wyatt as the architect of its house. Its history has been
-written by Mr. Alexander F. Baillie, in a book published in 1901.
-Mr. Wyatt provided a grand staircase, but no smoking-room, and only
-one billiard-room. At that time and until 1842 the club provided its
-members gratuitously with snuff at a cost of £25 per year. In 1874 the
-present smoking-room was opened; and now the handsome drawing-room is a
-place where those can retire who desire solitude, and the smoking-room
-and billiard-rooms are overcrowded. The club has a fine library. It
-claims among its members the prototype of Colonel Newcome. The members
-have a custom of securing a table for dinner by inverting a plate upon
-it.
-
-In 1855 the Oriental Club agreed to take over, without entrance fee,
-the members of the Alfred Club, which had been established in 1808,
-and was then being dissolved. Nearly 400 members availed themselves of
-the offer. The history of that club has some points of interest. It
-was largely intended for literary men, but it is said that Canning,
-vexed at overhearing a member asking who he was, gave it the nickname
-of the "Half-read" Club, which stuck to it. Its early career was
-prosperous, and by 1811 it had 354 candidates and only six vacancies;
-but its popularity waned. The real cause of its dissolution was the
-firm conservatism of the committee. They would not recognise the
-growing demand of accommodation for smokers. The clubhouse, No. 23,
-Albemarle Street, had been built and arranged in the days when no
-such accommodation had been considered necessary, and the committee
-resolutely refused to make any concession to the members who desired to
-smoke.
-
-The Garrick Club was founded in 1831. It was instituted for the
-general patronage of the drama; for the purpose of combining the use
-of a club on economical principles with the advantage of a literary
-society; for bringing together the supporters of the drama; and for
-the foundation of a national library, with works on costume. The
-number of members is limited to 650, who pay an entrance fee of twenty
-guineas, and an annual subscription of ten guineas. The club is more
-than usually hospitable, as it allows a member to invite three visitors
-to dinner, and admits the public to see its magnificent collection of
-dramatic pictures daily from 10 to 1.
-
-The Carlton Club was established in 1832. It is famous as the rallying
-ground for the Conservative party, the temple of Toryism. From it, and
-its resources, candidates in that interest derive much encouragement
-and support, and it may not unreasonably be inferred that some of that
-encouragement and support is material as well as moral.
-
-The Reform Club was established in 1837, and then held the same
-position towards the Liberal party. It was instituted for the purpose
-of promoting the social intercourse of the Reformers of the United
-Kingdom. All candidates are to declare themselves to be reformers,
-but no definition of a "reformer" is given. If, however, a member is
-believed not to be a reformer, fifty members may call a general meeting
-for his expulsion. Members of Parliament and peers may be admitted by
-general ballot, with priority of election. The committee elect each
-year two gentlemen of distinguished eminence for public service, or in
-science, literature, or arts. The Political Committee of fifty members
-elect each year two persons who have proved their attachment to the
-Liberal cause by marked and obvious services. Other members are elected
-by general ballot, one black ball in ten excluding. The club has 1400
-members. It has a fine library. It has liberal regulations as to the
-admission of guests, and ladies may be admitted to view the club from
-11.0 a.m. to 5.0 p.m. Members may inspect the books and accounts and
-take extracts from them. The admission fee is £40, and the annual
-subscription ten guineas.
-
-The Conservative Club was established in 1840, and the National Club
-in 1845. The object of the National Club is to promote Protestant
-principles, and to encourage united action among Protestants in
-political and social questions by establishing a central organisation
-to obtain and spread information on such questions, by affording
-facilities for conference thereon, and by providing in the metropolis
-a central place of meeting to devise the fittest means for promoting
-the object in view. Its members must hold the doctrines and principles
-of the reformed faith, as revealed in Holy Scripture, asserted at the
-Reformation, and generally embodied in the Articles of the Church
-of England. It has a general committee, house committee, library
-committee, prayer and religious committee, wine committee, finance
-committee, and Parliamentary committee. The General Committee has power
-to elect as honorary members of the club not more than twenty persons
-distinguished by their zeal and exertions on behalf of the Protestant
-cause; these are mostly clergymen. All meetings of committees are to
-be opened with prayer. The household are to attend the reading of the
-Word of God and prayers morning and evening in the committee room. The
-Parliamentary committee are to watch all proceedings in Parliament
-and elsewhere affecting the Protestant principles of the club. Its
-fundamental principles are declared to be:
-
- (1) The maintenance of the Protestant constitution,
- succession, and faith.
-
- (2) The recognition of Holy Scripture in national education.
-
- (3) The improvement of the moral and social condition of the
- people.
-
-The club is singular in having these definite religious purposes, and
-no doubt has in its time done much for the Protestant cause; but there
-is a little incongruity between the earnestness of its purpose and
-the self-indulgence which club life almost necessarily implies; and
-religious opinion, which claims to be the most stable of all things, is
-really one of the most fluid. Most men, who think at all, pass through
-many phases of it in their lives. It would not be surprising if this
-early earnestness had somewhat cooled down.
-
-Another group of clubs consists of those the members of which are bound
-together by a common interest in some athletic sport or pursuit--as the
-Marylebone Cricket Club, which dates from 1787; the Alpine Club, which
-was founded in 1857; the Hurlingham Club, in 1868; and to these may
-perhaps be added, as approximating to the same class, the Bath Club,
-1894.
-
-The gradual filling up of old clubs, which we observed in the case
-of the service clubs, and the congested state of their lists of
-candidates, leading to long delay before an intending member had the
-chance of election, has led to the establishment of junior clubs; thus,
-in 1864, the Junior Athenæum and the Junior Carlton were founded.
-
-A further development has been the establishment of clubs for women.
-The Albemarle Club, founded in 1874, admits both men and women, and
-adjusts its lists of candidates so as to provide for the election of
-nearly equal numbers of both.
-
-The Marlborough Club should also be mentioned specially, as it was
-founded by the King, and no person can be admitted a member except upon
-His Majesty's special approval.
-
-The Authors' Club was established in 1891 by the late Sir Walter
-Besant, and is especially noted for its house dinners, at which some
-person of distinction is invited to be the guest of the club.
-
-Altogether, the clubs of London are very numerous, and we have only
-been able to draw attention to the peculiarities of a few of them. Like
-every other human institution, they are subject to continual change,
-and there are pessimists who go about saying that they are decaying
-and losing their popularity and their usefulness. The long lists of
-candidates on the books of the principal clubs do not lend much colour
-to this suggestion. Social habits alter with every generation of men,
-and it is possible that many men do not use their clubs in the same way
-that the founders did, but the fact remains that they do use them, and
-that clubs still form centres of pleasure and convenience to many.
-
-One particular in which the change of social habits is especially
-noticeable is with respect to gaming. This, as we have seen, was almost
-the _raison d'être_ of some of the early clubs, and there are numerous
-tales of the recklessness with which it was pursued, and the fortunes
-lost and won at the gaming table. We have quoted from one or two clubs
-the regulations which now prevail, and similar regulations are adopted
-in most of the other clubs. Games of chance are wholly prohibited; and
-limits are provided to the amount that may be staked on games of cards.
-Each club has also a billiard room.
-
-With respect to smoking, the habitués of clubs have experienced a great
-change. Formerly the smoking room, if any, was small and far away;
-now the luxury of the club is concentrated in it, and the question
-is rather in what rooms smoking is not to be allowed. Very few clubs
-retain the old tradition that smoking is a thing to be discouraged and
-kept out of sight.
-
-Other signs of change are the increase in the cost of membership and
-the later hours for dining. It need hardly be said that the clubs pay
-great attention to their kitchens. We have it on the authority of Major
-A. Griffiths (_Fortnightly Review_, April, 1907) that the salary of the
-chef is between £200 and £300 a year.
-
-The customs of the clubs with regard to the admission of visitors
-vary. At one end of the scale is the Athenæum, which will not allow
-its members to give a stranger even a cup of cold water, and allows of
-conversation with strangers only in the open hall or in a small room
-by the side of the doorway. At the other end are clubs which provide
-special rooms for the entertainment of visitors, and encourage their
-members to treat their friends hospitably, and to show them what the
-club is able to do in the matter of cooking and wines.
-
-The social ethics of clubs vary in like manner. In some clubs,
-notably those of the Bohemian type, but including several which would
-claim not to belong to that group, mere membership of the club is a
-sufficient introduction to justify a member in addressing another, and
-conversation in the common rooms of the club becomes general. This
-is delightful--within limits: it is not always possible to create by
-the atmosphere of the club a sentiment that will restrain all its
-members from sometimes overstepping those bounds of mutual courtesy
-and consideration which alone can make such general conversation
-altogether pleasant. The greater clubs go to the opposite extreme,
-and members of them may meet day after day for many years in perfect
-unconsciousness of the existence of each other; yet, even in these, the
-association of those who know each other outside the club, but without
-its opportunities would rarely meet, though they have similar interests
-and pursuits, is a very desirable and useful thing. Many an excellent
-measure, originating in the mind of one member, has been matured by
-conversation with others, to the general good. So may the Clubs of
-London continue to prosper and flourish.
-
-
-
-
-THE INNS OF OLD LONDON
-
-BY PHILIP NORMAN, LL.D.
-
-
-To write a detailed account of London inns and houses of entertainment
-generally would require not a few pages, but several volumes. The inns,
-first established to supply the modest wants of an unsophisticated age,
-came by degrees to fulfil the functions of our modern hotels, railway
-stations, and parcel offices; they were places of meeting for business
-and social entertainment--in short, they formed a necessary part of the
-life of all Londoners, and of all who resorted to London, except the
-highest and the lowest. The taverns, successors of mediæval cook-shops,
-were frequented by most of the leading spirits of each generation from
-Elizabethan times to the early part of the nineteenth century, and
-their place has now been taken by clubs and restaurants. About these a
-mass of information is available, also on coffee-houses, a development
-of the taverns, in which, for the most part, they were gradually
-merged. As to the various forms of public-house, their whimsical
-signs alone have amused literary men, and perhaps their readers, from
-the time of _The Spectator_ until now. In this chapter I propose to
-confine my remarks to the inns "for receipt of travellers," so often
-referred to by John Stow in his _Survey of London_, which, largely
-established in the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, continued on the
-same sites, mostly until years after the advent of railways had caused
-a social revolution. These inns, with rare exceptions, had a galleried
-courtyard, a plan of building also common on the Continent, which came
-perhaps originally from the East. In such courtyards, as we shall see,
-during Tudor times theatrical performances often took place, and in
-form they probably gave a hint to the later theatres.
-
-Before the fifteenth century it was usual for travellers to seek the
-hospitality of religious houses, the great people being lodged in
-rooms set apart for them, while the poorer sort found shelter in the
-guest-house. But as time went on this proved inadequate, and inns on
-a commercial basis came into existence, being frequented by those who
-could hardly demand special consideration from the religious houses,
-and were not fitting recipients of charity. Naturally enough, these
-inns, when once their usefulness became recognised, were soon to be
-found in the main thoroughfares leading out of the metropolis, and they
-were particularly plentiful in Southwark on each side of what we now
-call the Borough High Street, extending for a quarter of a mile or more
-from London Bridge along the main road to the south-eastern counties
-and the Continent. The first thus established, and one of the earliest
-in this country, had to some extent a religious origin--namely, the
-
- "Gentle hostelrye
- That hight the Tabard, fasté by the Belle,"
-
-about which and about the Southwark inns generally I propose now to say
-a few words, for although well known, they are of such extreme interest
-that they demand a foremost place in an account of this kind. From the
-literary point of view the "Tabard" is immortalized, owing to the fact
-that Chaucer has selected it as the starting-point of his pilgrims
-in _The Canterbury Tales_. Historically, it may be mentioned that as
-early as the year 1304 the Abbot and Convent of Hyde, near Winchester,
-purchased in Southwark two tenements, on the sites of which he built
-for himself a town dwelling, and at the same time, it is believed, a
-hostelry for the convenience of travellers. In 1307 he obtained license
-to build a chapel at or by the inn, and in a later deed we are told
-that "the abbott's lodginge was wyninge to the backside of the Tabarde
-and had a garden attached." From that time onwards frequent allusions
-can be found to this house, the sign of which (a sleeveless coat,
-such as that worn by heralds) got somehow corrupted into the Talbot,
-a species of dog, by which it was known for a couple of centuries
-or more, almost to the time of its final destruction. Although the
-contrary has been asserted, the inn was undoubtedly burnt in the Great
-Southwark Fire of 1676, but was rebuilt soon afterwards in the old
-fashion, and continued to be a picturesque example of architecture
-until 1875, when the whole was swept away, hop merchants' offices and a
-modern "old Tabard" now occupying the site.
-
-Equal in interest to the last-named inn was the "White Hart." At the
-one Chaucer gave life and reality to a fancied scene; at the other
-occurred an historical event, the bald facts of which Shakespeare has
-lighted up with a halo of romance. The White Hart appears to have dated
-from the latter part of the fourteenth century, the sign being a badge
-of Richard II., derived from his mother, Joan of Kent. In the summer
-of 1450 it was Jack Cade's headquarters while he was striving to gain
-possession of London. Hall, in his _Chronicle_, records this, and adds
-that he prohibited "murder, rape and robbery by which colour he allured
-to him the hartes of the common people." It was here, nevertheless,
-that "one Hawaydyne of sent Martyns was beheaded," and here, during
-the outbreak, a servant of Sir John Fastolf, who had property in the
-neighbourhood, was with difficulty saved from assassination. His
-chattels were pillaged, his wife left with "no more gode but her
-kyrtyll and her smook," and he thrust into the forefront of a fight
-then raging on London Bridge, where he was "woundyd and hurt nere
-hand to death." Cade's success was of short duration; his followers
-wavered, he said, or might have said, in the words attributed to him by
-Shakespeare (2 Henry VI., act iv., scene 8), "Hath my sword therefore
-broken through London gate that you should leave me at the White Hart
-in Southwark?" The rebellion collapsed, and our inn is not heard of
-for some generations. Want of space prevents our recording the various
-vicissitudes through which it passed, and the historic names connected
-with it, until the time of the Southwark Fire of 1676, when, like the
-"Tabard," it was burnt down, but rebuilt on the old foundations. In
-1720 Strype describes it as large and of considerable trade, and it so
-continued until the time when Dickens, who was intimately acquainted
-with the neighbourhood, gave his graphic description of Sam Weller
-at the White Hart in the tenth chapter of _Pickwick_. In 1865-66 the
-south side of the building was replaced by a modern tavern, but the
-old galleries on the north and east sides remained until 1889, being
-latterly let out in tenements.
-
-There were several other galleried inns in Southwark, dating at least
-from the time of Queen Elizabeth, which survived until the nineteenth
-century, but we only have space briefly to allude to three. The "King's
-Head" and the "Queen's Head" was each famous in its way. The former
-had been originally the "Pope's Head," the sign being changed at the
-Reformation. In 1534 the Abbot of Waverley, whose town house was not
-far off, writes, apparently on business, that he will be at the "Pope's
-Head" in Southwark--eight years afterwards it appears as the "King's
-Head." In a deed belonging to Mr. G. Eliot Hodgkin, F.S.A., the two
-names are given. In the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries the house
-belonged to various noteworthy people; among the rest, to Thomas Cure,
-a local benefactor, and to Humble, Lord Ward. It was burnt in the
-Great Southwark Fire, and the last fragment of the galleried building,
-erected immediately afterwards, was pulled down in January, 1885.
-
-The "Queen's Head" was the only one of the Southwark houses we are
-describing that escaped the Fire of 1676, perhaps owing to the fact
-that, by way of precaution, a tenement was blown up at the gateway. It
-stood on the site of a house called the "Crowned or Cross Keys," which
-in 1529 was an armoury or store-place for the King's harness. In 1558
-it had a brew-house attached to it, and had lately been rebuilt. In
-1634 the house had become the "Queen's Head," and the owner was John
-Harvard, of Emmanuel College, Cambridge, who afterwards migrated to
-America, and gave his name to Harvard University, Massachusetts. About
-this time it was frequented by carriers, as we learn from John Taylor,
-"the water-poet." The main building, destroyed in 1895, was found to
-be of half-timbered construction, dating perhaps from the sixteenth
-century. A galleried portion, also of considerable age, survived until
-the year 1900.
-
-Of another Southwark inn, the "George," we can fortunately speak in
-the present tense. It seems to have come into existence in the early
-part of the sixteenth century, and is mentioned with the sign of "St.
-George" in 1554:--
-
- "St. George that swindg'd the Dragon, and e'er since
- Sits on his horseback at mine hostess' door."
-
-The owner in 1558 was Humfrey Colet, or Collet, who had been Member
-of Parliament for Southwark. Soon after the middle of the seventeenth
-century, in a book called _Musarum Deliciæ, or the Muses' Recreation_,
-compiled by Sir John Mennes (Admiral and Chief Comptroller of the Navy)
-and Dr. James Smith, appeared some lines, "upon a surfeit caught by
-drinking bad sack at 'the George' in Southwark." Perhaps the landlord
-mended his ways; in any case, the rent was shortly afterwards £150 a
-year--a large sum for those days. The "George" was a great coaching
-and carriers' inn. Only a fragment of it, but a picturesque one,
-now exists; it is still galleried, and dates from shortly after the
-Southwark Fire of 1676. The rest of the building was pulled down in
-1889-90. All the inns to which allusion has been made were clustered
-together on the east side of the Borough High Street, the gateways of
-those most distant from each other being only about 140 yards apart.
-
-Another leading thoroughfare from London to the east was the
-road through Aldgate to Whitechapel. Here, though the houses of
-entertainment were historically far less interesting than those of
-Southwark, they flourished for many years. Where a modern hotel with
-the same sign now stands, next to the Metropolitan railway station on
-the north side of Aldgate High Street, there was once a well-known
-inn, the "Three Nuns," so called, perhaps, from the contiguity of
-the nuns of St. Clare, or _sorores minores_, who gave a name to the
-Minories. The "Three Nuns" inn is mentioned by Defoe in his _Journal
-of the Plague_, which, though it describes events that happened
-when he was little more than an infant, has an air of authenticity
-suggesting personal experience. We are told by him that near this inn
-was the "dreadful gulf--for such it was rather than a pit"--in which,
-during the Plague of 1665, not less than 1,114 bodies were buried
-in a fortnight, from the 6th to the 20th of September. Throughout
-the eighteenth and the early part of the nineteenth centuries this
-house was much frequented by coaches and carriers. The late Mr.
-Edwin Edwards, who etched it in 1871, was told by the landlord that
-a four-horse coach was then running from there to Southend during
-the summer months. A painting of the holy nuns still appeared on the
-sign-board. The house was rebuilt soon after the formation of the
-Metropolitan Railway. A short distance west of the "Three Nuns," at 31,
-Aldgate High Street, the premises of Messrs. Adkin and Sons, wholesale
-tobacconists, occupy the site of the old "Blue Boar" coaching inn,
-which they replaced in 1861. The sculptured sign of the "Blue Boar,"
-let into the wall in front, was put up at the time of the rebuilding.
-The former inn, described on a drawing in the Crace collection as the
-oldest in London, is held by some to be the same as that referred to
-in an order of the Privy Council to the Lord Mayor, dated from St.
-James's, September 5th, 1557, wherein he is told to "apprehende and to
-comitt to safe warde" certain actors who are about to perform in "a
-lewde Playe called a Sacke full of Newse" at the "Boar's Head" without
-Aldgate.
-
-A few years ago, at No. 25, the entrance might still be seen of another
-famous inn called the "Bull," formerly the "Black Bull." Above the
-gateway was a fine piece of ironwork, and the old painted sign was
-against the wall of the passage. This house flourished greatly a little
-before the advent of railways, when Mrs. Anne Nelson, coach proprietor,
-was the landlady, and could make up nearly two hundred beds there. Most
-of her business was to Essex and Suffolk, but she also owned the Exeter
-coach. She must have been landlady on the memorable occasion when Mr.
-Pickwick arrived in a cab after "two mile o' danger at eightpence," and
-it was through this very gateway that he and his companions were driven
-by the elder Weller when they started on their adventurous journey to
-Ipswich. The house is now wholly destroyed and the yard built over.
-
-A common sign in former days was the "Saracen's Head." We shall have
-occasion to refer to several in London. One of them stood by Aldgate,
-just within the limits of the city. Here a block of old buildings
-is in existence on the south side, which once formed the front of a
-well-known coaching inn, with this sign. The spacious inn yard remains,
-the house on the east side of its entrance having fine pilasters. From
-the "Saracen's Head," Aldgate, coaches plied to Norwich as long ago as
-1681, and here there is, or was quite recently, a carrier's booking
-office.
-
-Another thoroughfare which, within the memory of some who hardly admit
-that they are past middle age, contained several famous inns, was that
-leading to the north, and known in its various parts as Gracechurch
-Street and Bishopsgate Street Within and Without. One of the best known
-was the "Cross Keys" in Bishopsgate Street, mentioned in the preface to
-Dodsley's _Old Plays_ as a house at which theatrical performances took
-place. It was here that, in the latter part of the sixteenth century,
-Bankes exhibited the extraordinary feats of his horse Marocco. One
-of them, if we may believe an old jest-book, was to select and draw
-forth Tarlton with its mouth as "the veriest fool in the company." In
-more modern times, until the advent of railways, the "Cross Keys" was
-a noted coaching and carriers' establishment. Destroyed in the Great
-Fire, and again burnt down in 1734, but rebuilt in the old style, it
-was still standing on the west side of the street, immediately south
-of Bell Yard, when Larwood and Hotten published their _History of
-Signboards_ in 1866. Another inn with this sign stood appropriately
-near the site of St. Peter's Church in Wood Street, Cheapside, and was
-pulled down probably about the same time as the more famous house in
-Gracechurch Street.
-
-Of equal note was the "Spread Eagle," the site of which has mostly been
-absorbed by the extension of Leadenhall Market. Like the "Cross Keys,"
-it was burnt in the Great Fire, but rebuilt in the old style with
-an ample galleried yard. In the basement some mediæval arches still
-remained. At the "Spread Eagle" that original writer George Borrow
-had been staying with his future wife, Mrs. Mary Clarke, and various
-friends, when they were married at St. Peter's Church, Cornhill, on
-April 23rd, 1840, her daughter, Henrietta, signing the register. Before
-its destruction in 1865 it had been for some time a receiving office
-of Messrs. Chaplin and Horne. The site, of about 1,200 square feet,
-was sold for no less a sum than £95,000. Another Gracechurch inn, the
-"Tabard," which long ago disappeared, had, like the immortal hostelry
-in Southwark, become the "Talbot," and its site is marked by Talbot
-Court.
-
-In Bishopsgate Street Within three galleried inns lingered long enough
-to have been often seen by the writer. These were the "Bull," the
-"Green Dragon," and the "Four Swans," each with something of a history,
-and to them might be added the picturesque, though less important,
-"Vine" and the "Flower Pot," from which last house a seventeenth
-century trade token was issued. The "Bull," the most southern of these
-inns, all of which were on the west side of the highway, was at least
-as old as the latter part of the fifteenth century, for in one of the
-chronicles of London lately edited by Mr. C. L. Kingsford, I find
-it, under the date 1498, associated with a painful incident--namely,
-the execution of the son of a cordwainer, "dwellyng at the Bulle in
-Bisshoppesgate Strete," for calling himself the Earl of Warwick. Hall
-gives his name as Ralph Wilford. Anthony Bacon, elder brother of
-Francis, during the year 1594 hired a lodging in Bishopsgate Street,
-but the fact of its being near the "Bull," where plays and interludes
-were performed, so troubled his mother that for her sake he removed to
-Chelsea. Shortly afterwards, as may be learnt from _Tarlton's Jests_,
-the old drama called "The Famous Victories of Henry the Fifth" was
-here played, "wherein the judge was to take a boxe on the eare, and
-because he was absent that should take the blow, Tarlton himselfe, ever
-forward to please, tooke upon him to play the judge, besides his own
-part of the clown." The "Bull" was the house of call of old Hobson, the
-carrier, to whose rigid rule about the letting of his saddle horses we
-are supposed to owe the phrase, "Hobson's Choice." Milton wrote his
-epitaph in the well-known lines beginning:--
-
- "Here lies old Hobson; Death hath broke his girt,
- And here, alas! hath laid him in the dirt."
-
-In his second edition of _Milton's Poems_, p. 319, Wharton alludes to
-Hobson's "portrait in fresco" as having then lately been in existence
-at the inn, and it is mentioned in _The Spectator_, No. 509. There is
-a print of it representing a bearded old man in hat and cloak with a
-money bag, which in the original painting had the inscription, "The
-fruitful mother of an hundred more." He bequeathed property for a
-conduit to supply Cambridge with water; the conduit head still exists,
-though not in its original position. In 1649, by a Council of War, six
-Puritan troopers were condemned to death for a mutiny at the "Bull."
-The house remained till 1866.
-
-Further north, at No. 86, was the "Green Dragon," the last of the
-galleried inns that survived in Bishopsgate Street. It is mentioned
-in De Laune's _Present State of London_, 1681, as a place of resort
-for coachmen and carriers, and I have before me an advertisement
-sheet of the early nineteenth century, showing that coaches were then
-plying from here to Norwich, Yarmouth, Cambridge, Colchester, Ware,
-Hertford, Brighton, and many other places. There is a capital etching
-of the house by Edwin Edwards. It was closed in 1877, its site being
-soon afterwards built over. At the sale of the effects eleven bottles
-of port wine fetched 37s. 6d. each. The "Four Swans," immediately to
-the north of the inn last named, although it did not survive so long,
-remained to the end a more complete specimen of its class, having three
-tiers of galleries perfect on each side, and two tiers at the west end.
-The "water-poet" tells us that in 1637 "a waggon or coach" came here
-once a week from Hertford. Other references to it might be quoted from
-books of the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, but the story told
-on an advertisement sheet issued by a former landlord about a fight
-here between Roundheads, led by Ireton, and a troop of Royalists, is
-apocryphal.
-
-Not far off, in Bishopsgate Street Without, there was until lately a
-"Two Swan" inn yard, and a "One Swan" with a large yard--an old place
-of call for carriers and waggons. These lingered on until the general
-clearance by the Great Eastern Railway Company a few years ago, when
-the remains of Sir Paul Pindar's mansion, latterly a tavern, were also
-removed; the finely-carved timber front and a stuccoed ceiling finding
-their way into the Victoria and Albert Museum. Another old Bishopsgate
-house was the "White Hart," near St. Botolph's Church, a picturesque
-building with projecting storeys, and in front the date 1480, but the
-actual structure was probably much less ancient. It was drawn by J.
-T. Smith and others early in the nineteenth century, and did not long
-survive. The site is still marked by White Hart Court. On the opposite
-side of the way was an inn, the "Dolphin," which, as Stow tells us,
-was given in 1513 by Margaret Ricroft, widow, with a charge in favour
-of the Grey Friars. It disappeared in the first half of the eighteenth
-century. The old "Catherine Wheel," a galleried inn hard by, mentioned
-by De Laune in 1681, was not entirely destroyed till 1894.
-
-Another road out of London richly furnished with inns was that from
-Newgate westward. The first one came to was the "Saracen's Head"
-on Snow Hill, an important house, to which the late Mr. Heckethorn
-assigned a very early origin. Whether or not it existed in the
-fourteenth century, as he asserts, it was certainly flourishing when
-Stow in his _Survey_ described it as "a fair and large inn for receipt
-of travellers." It continued for centuries to be largely used, and
-here Nicholas Nickleby and his uncle waited on Squeers, the Yorkshire
-schoolmaster, whom Dickens must have modelled from various real
-personages. In a _Times_ advertisement for January 3rd, 1801, I read
-that "at Mr. Simpson's Academy, Wodencroft Lodge, near Greta Bridge,
-Yorkshire, young gentlemen are boarded and accurately instructed in the
-English, Latin, and Greek languages, writing, arithmetic, merchants'
-accounts, and the most useful branches of the mathematics, at 16
-guineas per annum, if under nine years of age, and above that age
-17 guineas; French taught by a native of France at 1 guinea extra.
-Mr. Simpson is now in town, and may be treated with from eleven
-till two o'clock every day at the 'Saracen's Head,' Snow Hill." In
-the early part of last century the landlady was Sarah Ann Mountain,
-coach proprietor, and worthy rival of Mrs. Nelson, of the "Bull" Inn,
-Aldgate. The "Saracen's Head" disappeared in the early part of 1868,
-when this neighbourhood was entirely changed by the formation of the
-Holborn Viaduct. Another Snow Hill inn was the "George," or "George and
-Dragon," mentioned by Strype as very large and of considerable trade. A
-sculptured sign from there is in the Guildhall Museum.
-
-In Holborn there were once nine or ten galleried inns. We will only
-allude to those still in existence within the memory of the writer.
-The most famous of them, perhaps, was the "George and Blue Boar,"
-originally the "Blue Boar," the site of which is covered by the Inns of
-Court Hotel. The house is named in the burial register of St. Andrew's,
-Holborn, as early as 1616, but it is chiefly known from a story related
-by the Rev. Thomas Morrice, in his _Memoir of Roger Earl of Orrery_
-(1742), that Cromwell and Ireton, in the disguise of troopers, here
-intercepted a letter sewn in the flap of a saddle from Charles I. to
-his Queen, in which he wrote that he was being courted by the Scotch
-Presbyterians and the army, and that he thought of closing with the
-former. Cromwell is supposed to have said, "From that time forward
-we resolved on his ruin." The writer ventured to ask that excellent
-historian, Dr. Samuel Gardiner, what he thought of the statement. In
-August, 1890, he most kindly replied by letter as follows:--"The tale
-has generally been repudiated without enquiry, and I am rather inclined
-to believe, at least, in its substantial accuracy. The curious thing
-is, that there are two lines of tradition about intercepted letters,
-as it seems to me quite distinct." We may, therefore, without being
-over credulous, cherish the belief that the picturesque incident
-referred to was one that actually occurred. There is an advertisement
-of December 27th, 1779, offering the lease of the "George and Blue
-Boar," which helps us to realize the value and capacity of an important
-inn of that period. We are told that it contains forty bedrooms,
-stabling for fifty-two horses, seven coach-houses, and a dry ride sixty
-yards long; also that it returns about £2,000 a year. In George Colman
-the younger's "Heir at Law," act i., scene 2, this house is said by one
-of the characters to be "in tumble downish kind of a condition," but it
-survived until 1864, when it made way for the Inns of Court Hotel.
-
-A group of inns which remained more recently were Ridler's "Bell and
-Crown," the old "Bell," and the "Black Bull," all on the north side of
-Holborn. Of these, the most picturesque was the "Bell," about which I
-have been able to ascertain some curious facts. The earliest notice of
-it that has come to light was on the 14th of March, 1538, when William
-Barde sold a messuage with garden called the "Bell," in the parish of
-St. Andrew, Holborn, to Richard Hunt, citizen and girdler. The latter,
-who died in 1569, gave thirty sacks of charcoal yearly for ever, as a
-charge on the property, to be distributed to thirty poor persons of
-the parish. After various changes of ownership, in 1679-80 it passed
-into the hands of Ralph Gregge, and his grandson sold it in 1722 to
-Christ's Hospital. In the deed of sale three houses are mentioned and
-described as "formerly one great mansion-house or inn known as the Bell
-or Blue Bell." About two years before, the front of the premises facing
-Holborn had been rebuilt, when the sculptured arms of Gregge were let
-into the wall in front; these arms are now at the Guildhall Museum. The
-"Bell" became a coaching house of considerable reputation, that part of
-the business being about the year 1836 in the hands of Messrs. B. W.
-and H. Horne, who, as coach proprietors, were second only to William
-Chaplin. For many years, until finally closed in September, 1897, the
-house was managed by the Bunyer family. It was the last galleried inn
-on the Middlesex side of the water, the galleries being perhaps as old
-as the reign of Charles II. A still older portion was a cellar built of
-stone immediately to the left of the entrance, which might almost have
-been mediæval. The rest of the building seems to have dated from the
-early part of the eighteenth century. There is a sympathetic reference
-to the old "Bell" by William Black in his _Strange Adventures of a
-Phæton_. Another noteworthy "Bell" Inn was that in Carter Lane, whence
-Richard Quyney wrote in 1598 to his "loveing good ffrend and contreyman
-Mr. Willm Shackespere," the only letter addressed to our greatest
-poet which is known to exist. There is still a Bell yard connecting
-Carter Lane with Knightrider Street. The first scene of the _Harlot's
-Progress_, by Hogarth, is laid in front of an inn, with the sign of the
-"Bell" in Wood Street. Above the door are chequers.
-
-A short distance west of the Holborn house was the "Crown" Inn,
-latterly Ridler's "Bell and Crown," destroyed about 1899. It had been
-a coaching centre, but years ago the yard was built over, and it
-flourished to the end as a quiet family hotel. Next to the "Bell" on
-the east side was the "Black Bull," the front of which, with the carved
-sign of a bull in a violent state of excitement, remained after the
-rest of the inn had disappeared, outliving its neighbour for a brief
-period. It was in existence for a couple of hundred years or more, but
-future generations will probably only remember it as the house where
-Mr. Lewson was taken ill, and placed under the tender mercies of Betsy
-Prig and Mrs. Gamp; whence also, when convalescent, he was assisted
-into a coach, Mould the undertaker eyeing him with regret as he felt
-himself baulked of a piece of legitimate business.
-
-A few short years ago if, on leaving this group of Holborn inns, we had
-turned down Fetter Lane in the direction of Fleet Street, after passing
-two or three gabled buildings still standing on the right hand side,
-we should have come to another old hostelry called the "White Horse,"
-of which there is a well-known coloured print from a drawing made by
-Pollard in 1814, with a coach in front called the Cambridge Telegraph.
-It gradually fell into decay, became partly a "pub" and partly a common
-lodging-house, and with its roomy stabling at the back was swept away
-in 1897-98. Most of the structure was of the eighteenth century,
-but there were remains of an earlier wooden building. Its northern
-boundary touched the precinct of Barnard's Inn, an inn of chancery, now
-disestablished and adapted for the purposes of the Mercers' School.
-
-Continuing our course southward, a short walk would formerly have taken
-us to the "Bolt-in-Tun," I think the only coaching establishment in
-Fleet Street, which possessed so many taverns and coffee-houses. The
-inn was of ancient origin, the White Friars having had a grant of the
-"Hospitium vocatum Le Bolt en ton" as early as the year 1443. The sign
-is the well-known rebus on the name of Bolton, the bird-bolt through a
-tun or barrel, which was the device of a prior of St. Bartholomew's,
-Smithfield, and may still be seen in the church there, and at
-Canonbury, where the priors had a country house. The _City Press_ for
-September 12th, 1882, announces the then impending destruction of the
-"Bolt-in-Tun," and in the following year we are told that although a
-remnant of it in Fleet Street exists as a booking office for parcels,
-by far the larger portion, represented chiefly by the Sussex Hotel,
-Bouverie Street, which bore on it the date 1692, has just disappeared.
-
-Further east, on Ludgate Hill, La Belle Sauvage Yard, where Messrs.
-Cassell & Co. carry on their important business, marks the site of an
-historic house, and perpetuates an error of nomenclature. Its original
-title, as proved by a document of the year 1452, was "Savage's" Inn,
-otherwise called the "Bell on the Hoop," but in the seventeenth century
-a trade token was issued from here, having on it an Indian woman
-holding a bow and arrow, and in 1676 "Bell Sauvage" Inn, on Ludgate
-Hill, consisting of about forty rooms, with good cellarage and stabling
-for about one hundred horses, was to be let. The mistake is repeated
-in _The Spectator_, No. 28, where we are told of a beautiful girl who
-was found in the wilderness, and whose fame was perpetuated in a French
-romance. As we learn from Howe, in his continuation of _Stow's Annals_,
-on a seat outside this inn Sir Thomas Wyat rested, after failing in an
-attempt to enter the city during his ill-advised rebellion in the reign
-of Mary Tudor. From Lambarde we gather that this was one of the houses
-where plays were performed before the time of Shakespeare. Writing in
-1576, he says, "Those who go to Paris Garden, the Bell Savage, or the
-Theatre to behold bear-baiting, interludes, or fence play, must not
-account of any pleasant spectacle unless first they pay one pennie
-at the gate, another at the entrie of the scaffold, and a third for
-quiet standing." Here, as at the "Cross Keys," Gracechurch Street,
-Bankes exhibited his horse, and here, in 1683, "a very strange beast
-called a Rhynoceros--the first that ever was in England," could be seen
-daily. Stow affirms the inn to have been given to the Cutlers' Company
-by Isabella Savage; but, in fact, the donor was John Craythorne, who
-conveyed the reversion of it to them in 1568. The sculptured elephant
-and castle representing their crest is still on a wall in La Belle
-Sauvage Yard. The inn, which has left its mark in the annals of
-coaching, was taken down in 1873.
-
-A thoroughfare, formerly containing several fine mansions and various
-inns for travellers, was Aldersgate Street, the continuation of St.
-Martin's-le-Grand. There are allusions in print to the "Bell," the
-"George" (previously the "White Hart"), and to the "Cock" Inn, where,
-after years of wandering, Fynes Moryson arrived one Sunday morning in
-1595; but these all passed away long ago. The last to linger in the
-neighbourhood was the "Bull and Mouth," St Martin's-le-Grand, finally
-called the "Queen's" Hotel, absorbed by the General Post Office in
-1886. The name is generally supposed to be a corruption of Boulogne
-Mouth, the entrance to Boulogne Harbour, that town having been taken
-by Henry VIII. George Steevens, the Shakespearean commentator, seems
-to have suggested this, and his idea has been generally accepted; but
-it is more likely that our inn was identical with the house called in
-1657 "the Mouth near Aldersgate in London, then the usual meeting-place
-for Quakers," to which the Body of John Lilburne was conveyed in August
-of that year. We learn from Ellwood's _Autobiography_ that five years
-afterwards he was arrested at the "Bull and Mouth," Aldersgate. The
-house was at its zenith as a coaching centre in the early years of the
-nineteenth century, when Edward Sherman had become landlord. He rebuilt
-the old galleried house in 1830. When coaching for business purposes
-ceased to be, the gateway from St. Martin's-le-Grand was partially
-blocked up and converted into the main entrance, the inn continuing
-under its changed name for many years. The sculptured signs were not
-removed until the destruction of the building. One, which was over the
-main entrance, is a statuette of a Bull within a gigantic open Mouth;
-below are bunches of grapes; above, a bust of Edward VI. and the arms
-of Christ's Hospital, to which institution the ground belonged. Beneath
-is a tablet inscribed with the following doggerel rhyme:--
-
- "Milo the Cretonian an ox slew with his fist,
- And ate it up at one meal, ye Gods what a glorious twist."
-
-Another version of the sign, the Mouth appearing below the Bull, was
-over what had been a back entrance to the yard in Angel Street. These
-signs are now both in the Guildhall Museum. I had almost overlooked
-one house, the "Castle and Falcon," Aldersgate, closed within the last
-few months, and now destroyed. The structure was uninteresting, but it
-stood on an old site--that of John Day's printing-house in the reign of
-Queen Elizabeth. At the present inn on April 12th, 1799, was founded
-the Church Missionary Society; here also its centenary was celebrated.
-
-Besides being plentiful in the main thoroughfares, important inns,
-like the churches, were often crammed away in narrow and inconvenient
-lanes. This was the case with the "Oxford Arms" and the "Bell," both
-in Warwick Lane. The former was approached by a passage, being bounded
-on the west by the line of the old city wall, or by a later wall a few
-feet to the east of it, and touching Amen Corner on the south. It was a
-fine example of its kind. As was said by a writer in _The Athenæum_ of
-May 20th, 1876, just before it was destroyed:
-
- "Despite the confusion, the dirt and the decay, he who stands
- in the yard of this ancient inn may get an excellent idea of
- what it was like in the days of its prosperity, when not only
- travellers in coach or saddle rode into or out of the yard,
- but poor players and mountebanks set up their stage for the
- entertainment of spectators, who hung over the galleries or
- looked on from their rooms--a name by which the boxes of a
- theatre were first known."
-
-The house must have been rebuilt after the Great Fire, which raged
-over this area. That it existed before is proved by the following odd
-advertisement of March, 1672-73:
-
- "These are to give notice that Edward Bartlet, Oxford Carrier,
- hath removed his inn in London from the Swan at Holborn Bridge
- to the Oxford Arms in Warwick Lane, where he did Inn before
- the Fire. His coaches and waggons going forth on their usual
- days, Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays. He hath also a hearse
- and all things convenient to carry a Corps to any part of
- England."
-
-The "Bell" Inn, also galleried, was on the east side of Warwick Lane.
-There Archbishop Leighton died in 1684. As Burnet tells us, he had
-often said that "if he were to choose a place to die in it should be an
-Inn; it looked like a pilgrim's going home, to whom this world was all
-as an Inn, and who was weary of the noise and confusion in it." Thus
-his desire was fulfilled. There is a view of the old house in Chambers'
-_Book of Days_, vol. i., p. 278. It was demolished in 1865, when the
-value of the unclaimed parcels, some of which had been there many
-years, is said to have been considerable. According to one statement,
-the jewellery was worth £700 or £800.
-
-The few remaining inns to which reference will be made may best perhaps
-be taken in alphabetical order. The old "Angel" Inn, at the end of Wych
-Street, Strand, already existed in February, 1503, when a letter was
-directed to Sir Richard Plumpton "at the Angell behind St. Clement's
-Kirk." From this inn Bishop Hooper was taken to Gloucester in 1554 to
-be burnt at the stake. A trade token was issued there in 1657. Finally,
-the business, largely dependent on coaches, faded away; the building
-was rased to the ground in 1853, and the set of offices called Danes
-Inn built on the site. These in their turn have now succumbed. The
-"Axe" in Aldermanbury was a famous carriers' inn. It is mentioned in
-drunken Barnabee's _Journal_, and from there the first line of stage
-waggons from London to Liverpool was established about the middle of
-the seventeenth century. It took many days to perform the journey.
-
-In Laurence Lane, near the Guildhall, was a noteworthy house called
-"Blossoms" Inn, which, according to Stow, had "to sign St. Laurence the
-Deacon in a border of blossoms of flowers." In 1522, when the Emperor
-Charles V. came to visit Henry VIII. in London, certain inns were set
-apart for the reception of his retinue, among them "St. Laurence,
-otherwise called Bosoms Yn, was to have ready XX beddes and a stable
-for LX horses." In Ben Jonson's _Masque of Christmas_, presented
-at Court in 1616, "Tom of Bosomes Inn," apparently a real person,
-is introduced as representing Mis-rule. That the house was early
-frequented by carriers is shown in the epistle dedicatory to _Have at
-you at Saffron Walden_, 1596:--"Yet have I naturally cherisht and hugt
-it in my bosome, even as a carrier at Bosome's Inne doth a cheese under
-his arm." A satirical tract about Bankes and his horse Marocco gives
-the name of the authors as "John Dande the wiredrawer of Hadley, and
-Harrie Hunt head ostler of Bosomes inn." There is a view of this famous
-hostelry in the Crace collection, date 1855; the yard is now a depôt
-for railway goods.
-
-In 1852 London suffered a sad loss architecturally by the removal of
-the fine groined crypt of Gerard's Hall, Basing Lane, which dated
-perhaps from the end of the thirteenth century, and had formed part of
-the mansion of a famous family of citizens, by name Gysors. In Stow's
-time it was "a common hostrey for receipt of travellers." He gives a
-long account of it, mixing fact with fiction. The house and hall were
-destroyed in the Great Fire, but the crypt escaped, and on it an inn
-was built with, in front, a carved wooden effigy of that mythical
-personage, Gerard the Giant, which is now in the Guildhall Museum. On
-the removal of the crypt the stones were numbered and presented to the
-Crystal Palace Company, with a view to its erection in their building
-or grounds. It is said, however, that after a time the stones were used
-for mending roads.
-
-A rather unimportant-looking inn was the "Nag's Head," on the east side
-of Whitcomb Street, formerly Hedge Lane, but it is worthy of mention
-for one or two reasons. We learn from a manuscript note-book, which
-was in the possession of the late Mr. F. Locker Lampson, that Hogarth
-in his later days, when he set up a coach and horses, kept them at the
-"Nag's Head." He was then living on the east side of Leicester Square.
-According to a pencil note on an old drawing, which belongs to the
-writer, "this inn did the posting exclusively for the Royal family from
-George I. to William IV." It was latterly used as a livery stable, but
-retained its picturesque galleries until, the lease having come to an
-end, it was closed in 1890. The space remained vacant for some years,
-and is now covered by the fine publishing office of Messrs. Macmillan &
-Co.
-
-Two "Saracen's Head" inns have already been described, and though
-one feels how imperfect this account must of necessity be, and that
-some houses of note are altogether omitted, I am tempted to mention
-a third--the house with that sign in Friday Street. It came into the
-hands of the Merchant Taylors' Company as early as the year 1400, and
-after several rebuildings was finally swept away in 1844. The adjoining
-house, said by tradition to have been occupied by Sir Christopher Wren,
-was destroyed at the same time.
-
-It was in the early thirties of last century that coaching reached
-its zenith, and perhaps the greatest coaching centre in London was
-the "Swan with Two Necks," Lad Lane. It was an old inn, mentioned by
-Machyn as early as 1556. In 1637 carriers from Manchester and other
-places used to lodge there, but it will be best remembered as it
-appears in a well-known print during the heyday of its prosperity, the
-courtyard crowded with life and movement. The gateway was so narrow
-that it required some horsemanship to drive a fast team out of the said
-courtyard, and some care on the part of the guard that his horn or
-bugle basket was not jammed against the gate-post. The proprietor of
-this establishment was Mr. William Chaplin who, originally a coachman,
-became perhaps the greatest coach proprietor that ever lived. About
-1835 he occupied the yards of no fewer than five famous and important
-inns in London, to all of which allusion has been made--the "Spread
-Eagle" and "Cross Keys" in Gracechurch Street, the "Swan with Two
-Necks," the "White Horse," Fetter Lane, and the "Angel" behind St.
-Clement's. He had 1,300 horses at work on various roads, and about
-that time horsed fourteen out of the twenty-seven coaches leaving
-London every night. When the railways came he bowed to the inevitable,
-and, in partnership with Mr. Horne, established the great carrying
-business, which still flourishes on the site of the old "Swan with
-Two Necks." In 1845 Lad Lane was absorbed by Gresham Street. The
-origin of the sign has been often discussed, but it is perhaps well
-to conclude this chapter by adding a few words about it. The swans on
-the upper reaches of the Thames are owned respectively by the Crown
-and the Dyers and the Vintners' Company, and, according to ancient
-custom, the representatives of these several owners make an excursion
-each year up the river to mark the cygnets. The visitors' mark used to
-consist of the chevron or letter V and two nicks on the beak. The word
-nicks has been corrupted into necks, and as the Vintners were often
-tavern-keepers, the "Swan with Two Necks" became a common sign.
-
-
-
-
-THE OLD LONDON COFFEE-HOUSES
-
-BY G. L. APPERSON, I.S.O.
-
-
-For something like a century and a half the coffee-houses formed a
-distinctive feature of London life. The first is said to have been
-established by a man named Bowman, servant to a Turkey merchant, who
-opened a coffee-house in St. Michael's Alley, Cornhill, in 1652. The
-honour of being the second has been claimed for the "Rainbow" in Fleet
-Street, by the Inner Temple Gate, opposite Chancery Lane. Aubrey,
-speaking of Sir Henry Blount, a beau in the time of Charles II., says:
-"When coffee first came in, he was a great upholder of it, and had
-ever since been a constant frequenter of coffee-houses, especially
-Mr. Farre's, at the 'Rainbow,' by Inner Temple Gate." But according
-to _The Daily Post_ of May 15th, 1728, "Old Man's" Coffee-house,
-at Charing Cross, "was the Second that was set up in the Cities of
-London and Westminster." The question of priority, however, is of no
-importance. It is quite certain that in a surprisingly short space of
-time coffee-houses became very numerous. A manuscript of 1659, quoted
-in _The Gentleman's Magazine_ for 1852 (Part I., pp. 477-9), says that
-at that date there was
-
- "a Turkish drink to be sould almost in eury street, called
- Coffee, and another kind of drink called Tee, and also a drink
- called Chocolate, which was a very harty drink."
-
-Tea made its way slowly; but coffee took the town by storm.
-
-The coffee-houses, as resorts for men of different classes and
-occupations, survived till the early years of the nineteenth
-century; but their palmy days were over some time before the end of
-the eighteenth century. They were at the height of their fame and
-usefulness from the Restoration till the earlier years of George III.'s
-reign.
-
-From the description given in _The Spectator_ and other contemporary
-writings--such as "facetious" Tom Brown's _Trip through London_ of
-1728, and the like--it is easy to reconstruct in imagination the
-interior of one of these resorts as they appeared in the time of
-Queen Anne. Occasionally the coffee-room, as at the famous "Will's"
-in Russell Street, Covent Garden, was on the first floor. Tables
-were disposed about the sanded floor--the erection of boxes did not
-come in until a later date--while on the walls were numerous flaming
-advertisements of quack medicines, pills and tinctures, salves and
-electuaries, which were as abundant then as now, and of other wares
-which might be bought at the bar. The bar was at the entrance to the
-temple of coffee and gossip, and was presided over by the predecessors
-of the modern barmaids--grumbled at in _The Spectator_ as "idols," who
-there received homage from their admirers, and who paid more attention
-to customers who flirted with them than to more sober-minded visitors;
-and described by Tom Brown as "a charming Phillis or two, who invite
-you by their amorous glances into their smoaky territories."
-
-At the bar messages were left and letters taken in for regular
-customers. In the early days of Swift's friendship with Addison,
-Stella was instructed to address her letters to the former under
-cover to Addison at the "St. James's" Coffee-house, in St. James's
-Street; but as the friendship between the two men cooled the cover was
-dispensed with, and the letters were addressed to Swift himself at the
-coffee-house, where they were placed, doubtless with many others, in
-the glass frame behind the bar. Stella's handwriting was very like that
-of her famous correspondent, and one day Harley, afterwards Earl of
-Oxford, seeing one of Stella's letters in the glass frame and thinking
-the writing was Swift's, asked the latter, when he met him shortly
-afterwards, how long he had learned the trick of writing to himself.
-Swift says he could hardly persuade him that he was mistaken in the
-writing.
-
-The coffee-houses were the haunts of clubs and coteries almost from the
-date of their first establishment. Steele, in the familiar introduction
-to _The Tatler_, tells us how accounts of gallantry, pleasure and
-entertainment were to come from "White's" Chocolate-house; poetry from
-"Will's" Coffee-house; learning from the "Grecian"; and foreign and
-domestic news from the "St. James's." Nearly fifty years later, Bonnell
-Thornton, in the first number of _The Connoisseur_, January 31st, 1754,
-similarly enumerates some of the leading houses. "White's" was still
-the fashionable resort; "Garraway's" was for stock-jobbers; "Batson's"
-for doctors; the "Bedford" for "wits" and men of parts; the "Chapter"
-for book-sellers; and "St. Paul's" for the clergy. Mackay, in his
-_Journey through England_, published in 1724, says that
-
- "about twelve the _beau-monde_ assembles in several chocolate
- and coffee-houses, the best of which are the Cocoa Tree and
- White's Chocolate-houses, St. James's, the Smyrna, and the
- British Coffee-houses; and all these so near one another that
- in less than an hour you see the company of them all....
- I must not forget to tell you that the parties have their
- different places, where, however, a stranger is always well
- received; but a Whig will no more go to the Cocoa Tree or
- Ozinda's than a Tory will be seen at the coffee-house of
- St. James's. The Scots go generally to the British, and a
- mixture of all sorts to the Smyrna. There are other little
- coffee-houses much frequented in this neighbourhood--Young
- Man's for officers, Old Man's for stock-jobbers, paymasters,
- and courtiers, and Little Man's for sharpers."
-
-It was only natural that people of similar occupations or tastes should
-gravitate in their hours of leisure to common social centres, and no
-one classification, such as that just quoted, can exhaust the subject.
-
-The devotees of whist had their own houses. The game began to be
-popular about 1730, and some of those who first played scientific
-whist--possibly including Hoyle himself--were accustomed to meet at the
-"Crown" Coffee-house in Bedford Row. Other groups soon met at other
-houses. A pirated edition of Hoyle's _Whist_, printed at Dublin in
-1743, contains an advertisement of "A Short Treatise on the Game of
-Whist, as play'd at Court, White's, and George's Chocolate-houses, at
-Slaughter's, and the Crown Coffee-houses, etc., etc." At "Rawthmell's"
-Coffee-house in Henrietta Street, Covent Garden, the Society of Arts
-was founded in 1754. "Old Slaughter's" in St. Martin's Lane was a
-great resort in the second half of the eighteenth century of artists.
-Here Roubillac the sculptor, Hogarth, Bourguignon or Gravelot the book
-illustrator, Moser the keeper of the St. Martin's Lane Academy, Luke
-Sullivan the engraver, and many others of the fraternity were wont
-to foregather. Near by was "Young Slaughter's," a meeting-place for
-scientific and literary men.
-
-R. L. Edgeworth, in his _Memoirs_ (p. 118, Ed. 1844), says:--
-
- "I was introduced by Mr. Keir into a society of literary
- and scientific men, who used formerly to meet once a week
- at Jack's Coffee-house [_i.e., circa 1780_] in London, and
- afterwards at Young Slaughter's Coffee-house. Without any
- formal name, this meeting continued for years to be frequented
- by men of real science and of distinguished merit. John Hunter
- was our chairman. Sir Joseph Banks, Solander, Sir A. Blagden,
- Dr. George Fordyce, Milne, Maskelyne, Captain Cook, Sir G.
- Shuckburgh, Lord Mulgrave, Smeaton and Ramsden, were among
- our members. Many other gentlemen of talents belonged to this
- club, but I mention those only with whom I was individually
- acquainted."
-
-A favourite resort of men of letters during the middle and later years
-of the eighteenth century was the "Bedford" Coffee-house, under the
-Piazza, in Covent Garden. This house, it may be said, inherited the
-tradition from Button's, which that famous coffee-house had taken
-over from Will's. To the "Bedford" came Fielding, Foote, Garrick,
-Churchill, Sheridan, Hogarth, and many another man of note. Another
-haunt of literary men, as well as of book-sellers, was the "Chapter"
-Coffee-house in Paternoster Row. Chatterton wrote to his mother in
-May, 1770: "I am quite familiar at the 'Chapter' Coffee-house, and
-know all the geniuses there." Goldsmith was one of its frequenters.
-It was here that he came to sup one night as the invited guest of
-Churchill's friend, Charles Lloyd. The supper was served and enjoyed,
-whereupon Lloyd, without a penny in his pocket to pay for the meal
-he had ordered, coolly walked off and left Goldsmith to discharge
-the reckoning. It was at the same house that Foote, one day when a
-distressed player passed his hat round the coffee-room circle with an
-appeal for help, made the malicious remark: "If Garrick hear of this he
-will certainly send in his hat."
-
-Close by was the "St. Paul's" Coffee-house, where, according to Bonnell
-Thornton, "tattered crapes," or poor parsons, were wont to ply "for an
-occasional burial or sermon, with the same regularity as the happier
-drudges who salute us with the cry of 'Coach, sir,' or 'Chair, your
-honour.'" The same writer relates how a party of bucks, by a hoaxing
-proffer of a curacy, "drew all the poor parsons to 'St. Paul's'
-Coffee-house, where the bucks themselves sat in another box to smoke
-their rusty wigs and brown cassocks."
-
-Business men gathered at "Jonathan's" and "Garraway's," both in
-Exchange Alley, where the sale and purchase of stocks and bonds and
-merchandise of every kind formed the staple talk. The former house
-was a centre of operations for both bubblers and bubbled in the mania
-year of 1720. "Lloyd's" Coffee-house was for very many years a famous
-auction mart.
-
- "Then to Lloyd's coffee-house he never fails,
- To read the letters, and attend the sales,"
-
-says the author of _The Wealthy Shopkeeper_, published in 1700.
-Addison, in No. 46 of _The Spectator_, tells how he was accustomed to
-make notes or "minutes" of anything likely to be useful for future
-papers, and of how one day he accidentally dropped one of these papers
-at "Lloyd's Coffee-house, where the auctions are usually kept." It was
-picked up and passed from hand to hand, to the great amusement of all
-who saw it. Finally, the "boy of the coffee-house," having in vain
-asked for the owner of the paper, was made "to get up into the auction
-pulpit and read it to the whole room." The "Jerusalem" Coffee-house, in
-Exchange Alley, was for generations the resort of merchants and traders
-interested in the East.
-
-The doctors met at "Batson's" or "Child's." The pseudonymous author
-of Don Manoel Gonzales' _Voyage to Great Britain_, 1745, speaking of
-the London physicians, says: "You find them at Batson's or Child's
-Coffee-house usually in the morning, and they visit their patients
-in the afternoon." The Jacobites had two well-known houses of
-call--"Bromefield's" Coffee-house in Spring Gardens, and, later, the
-"Smyrna" in Pall Mall. Mr. J. H. MacMichael, in his valuable book on
-_Charing Cross_, 1906, quotes an order "given at their Majesties' Board
-of Green Cloth at Hampton Court" in 1689, to Sir Christopher Wren,
-Surveyor of Their Majesties' Works, to have "bricked or otherwise
-so closed up as you shall judge most fit for the security of their
-Majesties' Palace of Whitehall" a certain door which led out of
-Buckingham Court into Spring Garden, because Bromefield's Coffee-house
-in that court was resorted to by "a great and numerous concourse
-of Papists and other persons disaffected to the Government." Mr.
-MacMichael suggests that probably "Bromefield's" was identical with
-the coffee-house known as "Young Man's." "The Smyrna," in Pall Mall,
-was the Jacobite resort in Georgian days. It was also a house of many
-literary associations. Thomson, the poet, there received subscriptions
-for his _Seasons_; Swift and Prior and Arbuthnot frequented it. In
-1703 Lord Peterborough wrote to Arbuthnot from Spain:--"I would faine
-save Italy and yett drink tea with you at the Smirna this Winter." But
-it is impossible to catalogue fully all the different coffee-house
-centres. The "Grecian" in Devereux Court, Strand, was devoted to
-learning; barristers frequented "Serle's," at the corner of Serle and
-Portugal Streets, Lincoln's Inn Fields; the Templars went to "Dick's,"
-and later to the "Grecian"; and so the list might be prolonged.
-
-In the earlier days of the coffee-houses the coterie or club of regular
-frequenters foregathered by the fire, or in some particular part of
-the general room, or in an inner room. At "Will's" in Russell Street,
-Covent Garden, where Mr. Pepys used to drop in to hear the talk,
-Dryden, the centre of the literary circle which there assembled, had
-his big arm-chair in winter by the fireside, and in summer on the
-balcony. Around him gathered many men of letters, including Addison,
-Wycherley, Congreve, and the juvenile Pope, and all who aspired to
-be known as "wits." On the outskirts of the charmed circle hovered
-the more humble and modest frequenters of the coffee-room, who were
-proud to obtain the honour even of a pinch of snuff from the poet's
-box. Across the road at "Button's," a trifle later, Addison became the
-centre of a similar circle, though here the tone was political quite
-as much as literary. Whig men of letters discussed politics as well as
-books. Steele, Tickell, Budgell, Rowe, and Ambrose Phillips were among
-the leading figures in this coterie. Pope was of it for a time, but
-withdrew after his quarrel with Addison.
-
-Whig politicians met at the "St. James's"; and Addison, in a
-_Spectator_ of 1712, pictures the scene. A rumour of the death of Louis
-XIV. had set the tongues going of all the gossips and quidnuncs in
-town; and the essayist relates how he made a tour of the town to hear
-how the news was received, and to catch the drift of popular opinion
-on so momentous an event. In the course of his peregrinations the
-silent gentleman visited the "St. James's," where he found the whole
-outer room in a buzz of politics. The quality of the talk improved as
-he advanced from the door to the upper end of the room; but the most
-thorough-going politicians were to be found "in the inner room, with
-the steam of the coffee-pot," and in this sanctum, says the humorist,
-"I heard the whole Spanish monarchy disposed of, and all the line of
-Bourbon provided for, in less than a quarter of an hour."
-
-In later days coffee-house clubs became more exclusive. The members of
-a club or coterie were allotted a room of their own, to which admission
-ceased to be free and open, and thus was marked the beginning of the
-transition from the coffee-house of the old style to the club-house
-of the new. In _The Gentleman's Magazine_ for 1841 (Part II., pp.
-265-9) is printed a paper of proposals, dated January 23rd, 1768, for
-enlarging the accommodation for the club accustomed to meet at Tom's
-Coffee-house, Great Russell Street, Covent Garden, by taking into the
-coffee-room the first floor of the adjoining house. Admission to this
-club was obtained by ballot.
-
-Coffee-houses were frequented for various purposes besides coffee,
-conversation, and business--professional or otherwise. The refreshments
-supplied were by no means confined to such innocuous beverages
-as tea and coffee and chocolate. Wines and spirits were freely
-consumed--"laced" coffee, or coffee dashed with brandy, being decidedly
-popular. Swift relates how on the occasion of his christening the
-child of Elliot, the proprietor of the "St. James's," he sat at the
-coffee-house among some "scurvy companions" over a bowl of punch so
-late that when he came home he had no time to write to Stella. The
-prolonged sittings and too copious libations of the company at Button's
-Coffee-house gave the feeble and delicate Pope many a headache; and
-Addison, who was notoriously a hard drinker, did not, we may feel
-sure, confine himself during those prolonged sittings to coffee.
-
-The coffee-houses were also public reading-rooms. There could be read
-the newspapers and other periodical publications of the day. When Sir
-Roger de Coverley entered "Squire's," near Gray's Inn Gate, he "called
-for a clean pipe, a paper of tobacco, a dish of coffee, a wax candle,
-and _The Supplement_."
-
-Mackay, in his _Journey through England_, already quoted, says that "in
-all the Coffee-houses you have not only the foreign prints, but several
-English ones with the Foreign Occurrences, besides papers of morality
-and party disputes." Swift, writing to Stella, November 18th, 1711,
-says, "Do you read the _Spectators_? I never do; they never come in my
-way; I go to no coffee-houses"; and when _The Tatler_ had disappeared,
-a little earlier, Gay wrote that "the coffee-houses began to be
-sensible that the Esquire's lucubrations alone had brought them more
-customers than all their other newspapers put together." Periodical
-publications were filed for reference; and at all the better houses
-_The London Gazette_, and, during the session, the Parliamentary Votes
-could be seen. At least one house possessed a library. This was the
-"Chapter," in Paternoster Row, already referred to as a literary haunt.
-Dr. Thomas Campbell, the author of a _Diary of a Visit to England in
-1775_, which was published at Sydney in 1854, says that he had heard
-that the "Chapter" was remarkable for a large collection of books and a
-reading society.
-
-The coffee-houses served as writing-rooms as well as reading-rooms.
-Many of Steele's numerous love-letters to "dear Prue," the lady who
-became his wife, the lovely Mary Scurlock, written both before and
-after his marriage, are dated from the "St. James's," the "Tennis
-Court," "Button's," or other coffee-house. But a popular coffee-room
-could hardly have been an ideal place for either reading or writing. A
-poet of 1690 says that
-
- "The murmuring buzz which thro' the room was sent,
- Did bee-hives' noise exactly represent,
- And like a bee-hive, too, 'twas filled, and thick,
- All tasting of the Honey Politick
- Called 'News,' which they all greedily sucked in."
-
-And many years later, Gilly Williams, in a letter to George Selwyn,
-dated November 1st, 1764, says: "I write this in a full coffee-house,
-and with such materials, that you have good luck if you can read two
-lines of it."
-
-A curious proof of the close and intimate way in which the
-coffee-houses were linked with social life is to be seen in the
-occasional references, both in dramatic and prose literature, to
-some of the well-known servants of the coffee-houses. Steele, in the
-first number of _The Tatler_, refers familiarly to Humphrey Kidney,
-the waiter and keeper of book debts at the "St. James's"--he "has the
-ear of the greatest politicians that come hither"--and when Kidney
-resigned, it was advertised that he had been "succeeded by John
-Sowton, to whose place of caterer of messages and first coffee-grinder
-William Bird is promoted, and Samuel Bardock comes as shoe-cleaner in
-the room of the said Bird." "Robin, the Porter who waits at Will's
-Coffee-house," plays a prominent part in a little romance narrated in
-No. 398 of _The Spectator_. He is described as "the best man in the
-town for carrying a billet; the fellow has a thin body, swift step,
-demure looks, sufficient sense, and knows the town." A waiter of the
-same name at Locket's, in Spring Gardens, is alluded to in Congreve's
-_The Way of the World_, where the fashionable Lady Wishfort, when she
-threatens to marry a "drawer" (or waiter), says, "I'll send for Robin
-from Locket's immediately."
-
-The coffee-houses were employed as agencies for the sale of many
-things other than their own refreshments. Most of them sold the quack
-medicines that were staringly advertised on their walls. Some sold
-specific proprietary articles. A newspaper advertisement of 1711 says
-that the water of Epsom Old Well was "pumped out almost every night,
-that you may have the new mineral every morning," and that "the water
-is sold at Sam's Coffee-house in Ludgate Street, Hargrave's at the
-Temple Gate, Holtford's at the lower end of Queen's Street near Thames
-Street, and nowhere else in London." A "Ticket of the seal of the
-Wells" was affixed, so that purchasers "might not be cheated in their
-waters." The "Royal" Coffee-house at Charing Cross, which flourished in
-the time of Charles II., sold "Anderson's Pills"--a compound of cloves,
-jalap, and oil of aniseed. At the same house were to be had tickets for
-the various county feasts, then popular, which were an anticipation of
-the annual dinners of county associations so common nowadays.
-
-Razor-strops of a certain make were to be bought in 1705 at John's
-Coffee-house, Exchange Alley. In 1742 it was advertised that "silver
-tickets" (season tickets) for Ranelagh Gardens were to be had at any
-hour of the day at Forrest's Coffee-house, near Charing Cross. "All
-Sorts of the newest fashion'd Tye Perukes, made of fresh string, Humane
-Hair, far exceeding any Country Work," were advertised in 1725 as to be
-bought at Brown's Coffee-house in Spring Gardens.
-
-House agents, professional men, and other folk of more questionable
-kind, were all wont to advertise that they could be seen by clients
-at this or that coffee-house. The famous and impudent Mrs. Mapp, "the
-bone-setter," drove into town daily from Epsom in her own carriage,
-and was to be seen (and heard) at the "Grecian." Most of the houses
-were willing to receive letters in answer to advertisements, and
-from the nature of the latter must often, it is pretty certain, have
-been assisting parties to fraud and chicanery of various kind. At
-some houses, besides those like Lloyd's specially devoted to auction
-business, sales were held. A black boy was advertised to be sold at
-Denis's Coffee-house in Finch Lane in 1708. In the middle of the
-eighteenth century sales were often held at the "Apollo" Coffee-house,
-just within Temple Bar, and facing Temple Gate. Picture sales were
-usually held at coffee-houses. The catalogue of one such sale, held at
-the "Barbadoes" Coffee-house in February, 1689/90, contains a glowing
-address on the art of painting by Millington, the Auctioneer, written
-in the style made famous later by George Robins. Says the eloquent
-Millington:
-
- "This incomparable art at the same time informs the Judgment,
- pleases the Fancy, recreates the Eye, and touches the Soul,
- entertains the Curious with silent Instruction, by expressing
- our most noble Passions, and never fails of rewarding its
- admirers with the greatest Pleasures, so Innocent and
- Ravishing, that the severest Moralists, the Morosest _Stoicks_
- cannot be offended therewith,"
-
-and so on and so on.
-
-Many of the early book sales, too, were held at coffee-houses. The
-third book auction in England, that of the library of the Rev. William
-Greenhill, was held on February 18th, 1677/78, "in the House of
-Ferdinand Stable, Coffee-Seller, at the Sign of the 'Turk's Head,'" in
-Bread Street. When sales were held elsewhere, catalogues could usually
-be had at some of the leading coffee-houses.
-
-Besides serving as reading, writing and sale rooms, they seem sometimes
-to have been used as lecture rooms. William Whiston, in his _Memoirs_
-written by himself (1749), says:
-
- "Mr. Addison, with his friend Sir Richard Steele, brought me
- upon my banishment from Cambridge, to have many astronomical
- lectures at Mr. Button's coffee-house, near Covent Garden, to
- the agreeable entertainment of a great number of persons, and
- the procuring me and my family some comfortable support under
- my banishment."
-
-Some of the houses, as an additional attraction to visitors, offered
-exhibitions of collections of curiosities. The most famous collection
-of this kind was that to be seen for many years at Don Saltero's
-Coffee-house at Chelsea. Don Saltero, by the way, was simply plain
-James Salter disguised. Some of his exhibits were supplied by his
-former master, Sir Hans Sloane, and by other scientific friends and
-patrons. But mixed with things of genuine interest were to be seen all
-sorts of rubbish. Steele made fun of the collection in _The Tatler_.
-But people came to see the "piece of nun's skin tanned," "Job's tears,
-which grow on a tree, and of which anodyne necklaces are made," a
-"waistcoat to prevent sweating," and the many other strange articles
-which were shown side by side with the wooden shoe (of doubtful
-authenticity, one would think) which was placed under Mr. Speaker's
-chair in the time of James II., the King of Morocco's tobacco pipe,
-Oliver Cromwell's sword, and the like "historical" curiosities; and
-Mr. Salter had no reason to be dissatisfied with the results of his
-ingenuity. The most interesting association of this coffee-house,
-perhaps, is Pennant's story of how it was frequented by Richard
-Cromwell, the quondam Lord Protector, described in his peaceful age as
-"a little and very neat old man, with a most placid countenance, the
-effect of his innocent and unambitious life."
-
-Not far from Don Saltero's was the old Chelsea Bun-house, which also
-contained a museum. The last relics of this collection were sold in
-April, 1839, and included a few pictures, plaster casts, a model of
-the bun-house, another, in cut paper, of St. Mary Redcliff Church, and
-other things of a still more trumpery character.
-
-Richard Thoresby tells us that when he was in London, in the summer
-of 1714, he met his "old friend Dr. Sloane at the coffee-house of Mr.
-Miers, who hath a handsome collection of curiosities in the room where
-the virtuosi meet." As the name of the proprietor only is given, it is
-not easy to identify this house, but possibly it was the "Grecian" in
-Devereux Court, which was a favourite resort of the learned. It was
-at the "Grecian," by the way, that Goldsmith, in the latter years of
-his life, was often the life and soul of the Templars who were wont
-to meet there. In their company he sometimes amused himself with the
-flute, or with whist--"neither of which he played very well." When he
-took what he called a "Shoemaker's holiday," Goldsmith, after his day's
-excursion, "concluded by supping at the 'Grecian' or 'Temple-Exchange'
-Coffee-house, or at the 'Globe' in Fleet Street."
-
-A word must be said as to the manners of the frequenters of
-coffee-houses. The author of _A Trip through London_, 1728, tells
-of fops who stare you out of countenance, and describes one man as
-standing with his back to the fire "in a great coffee-house near the
-Temple," and there spouting poetry--a remarkable specimen, indeed, of
-the bore; but on the whole the evidence goes to show that bad manners
-were usually resented by the rest of the company, and that good humour
-and good manners were marked characteristics of coffee-house life.
-There were exceptional incidents, of course. A fatal duel once resulted
-from a heated argument at the "Grecian" about a Greek accent. One
-day, soon after the first appearance of _The Tatler_, two or three
-well-dressed men walked into the coffee-room of the "St. James's,"
-and began in a loud, truculent manner to abuse Steele as the author
-of that paper. One of them at last swore that he would cut Steele's
-throat or teach him better manners. Among the company present was Lord
-Forbes, with two friends, officers of high rank in the army. When the
-cut-throat had uttered his threat, Lord Forbes said significantly,
-"In this country you will find it easier to cut a purse than to cut a
-throat," and with the aid of the military gentlemen the bullies were
-ignominiously turned out of the house. Many years later, in 1776, the
-"St. James's" was the scene of a singular act of senseless violence. It
-is tersely described in a letter from Lord Carlisle to George Selwyn.
-He writes:
-
- "The Baron de Lingsivy ran a French officer through the body
- on Thursday for laughing in the St. James's Coffee-house. I
- find he did not pretend that he himself was laughed at, but at
- that moment he chose that the world should be grave. The man
- won't die, and the baron will not be hanged."
-
-Incidents of this kind, however, were of rare occurrence.
-
-But it is impossible to attempt to exhaust the subject of the Old
-London Coffee-houses in one brief chapter. For a hundred years they
-focussed the life of the town. Within their hospitable walls men of
-all classes and occupations, independently, or in clubs and coteries,
-met not only for refreshment, but for social intercourse--to read and
-hear the news, to discuss the topics of the day, to entertain and be
-entertained. This was the chief end they served. Incidentally, as we
-have seen, they served a number of other subsidiary and more of less
-useful purposes. They died slowly. Gradually the better-class houses
-became more exclusive, and were merged in clubs of the modern kind.
-The inferior houses were driven from public favour by the taverns and
-public-houses, or, degenerating from their former condition, lingered
-on as coffee-houses still, but of the lower type, which is not yet
-quite extinct.
-
-
-
-
-THE LEARNED SOCIETIES OF LONDON
-
-BY SIR EDWARD BRABROOK, C.B., F.S.A.
-
-
-In a sense some of the City Guilds are entitled to be called "learned
-societies"--as the Apothecaries, the Parish Clerks, the Stationers,
-and the Surgeons--but they are dealt with under their proper head. By
-the learned societies of London, we mean here those voluntary bodies
-existing with or without royal patronage, but relying wholly for
-support on the contributions of their members, which have taken upon
-themselves the promotion of knowledge in one or more of its branches.
-The earliest which we have been able to trace is that Society of
-Antiquaries which was founded in 1572, the fourteenth year of Queen
-Elizabeth, at the house of Sir Robert Cotton, under the presidency of
-Archbishop Parker. It counted among its members Lancelot Andrewes,
-Bishop of Winchester, William Camden, Sir William Dethicke, Garter,
-William Lambarde, James Ley, Earl of Marlborough, John Stow, Mr.
-Justice Whitelock, and other antiquaries of distinction. It is said
-that James I. became alarmed for the arcana of his Government and, as
-some thought, for the established Church, and accordingly put an end to
-the existence of the society in 1604.
-
-His grandson, Charles II., founded the Royal Society of London for
-improving natural knowledge in the year 1660, and thus gave effect to a
-project which had been in the minds of many learned men for some time,
-is expounded by Bacon in his scheme of Solomon's house, and is perhaps
-best embodied in a letter which was addressed by John Evelyn to the
-Hon. Robert Boyle on September 1, 1659. The first meeting recorded in
-the journals of the society was held on November 28, 1660, and Evelyn
-was elected a member on December 26 of that year. Sir R. Moray was the
-first president. Graunt aptly called the society "The King's Privy
-Council for Philosophy." Statutes were duly framed by the society, and
-received the King's approval in January, 1662-3. For many years it held
-its meetings at Gresham College, with an interval of about four years
-(1669-1673), when it occupied Chelsea College. Its charters (dated
-1662, 1663, and 1669) gave it many privileges, among others that of
-using a mace, and it was formerly said that the one used by the society
-was the identical mace or "bauble" of the Long Parliament, but that is
-an error. The society began in 1663 the excellent practice, which has
-continued to the present day, of celebrating the anniversary by dining
-together on St. Andrew's Day (November 30). It began on February 21,
-1665-6, the formation of its museum, a catalogue of which was published
-in 1681. Many of its meetings were devoted to practical experiment;
-thus, on November 14, 1666, the operation of the transfusion of blood
-from one dog to another was performed in the presence of the members.
-In 1671 Isaac Newton sent his reflecting telescope to the society, and
-on January 11, 1671-2, he was elected a fellow. On April 28, 1686,
-the manuscript of his _Principia_ was presented to the society, and
-it was published by the society in the following year. Many great men
-have been presidents of the society. Among them may be mentioned Sir
-Christopher Wren, elected president January 12, 1680-1; Samuel Pepys,
-1684; Lord Somers, Chancellor of England, 1698; Isaac Newton, 1703; Sir
-Hans Sloane, on the death of Newton, 1726-7; Martin Folkes, who was
-also a well-remembered President of the Society of Antiquaries, 1741;
-the Earl of Macclesfield, 1753; succeeded on his death by the Earl of
-Morton, 1764; James West, 1768; James Barrow, and shortly afterwards,
-Sir John Pringle, 1772; Sir Joseph Banks, 1777; Wollaston, 1820; Davies
-Gilbert, 1826. In 1830, a contested election took place between the
-Duke of Sussex and Herschel the astronomer, when His Royal Highness was
-elected by 119 votes to 111.
-
-The Government have frequently availed themselves of the existence
-of the Royal Society to entrust it with important public duties. On
-December 12, 1710, the fellows of the society were appointed visitors
-of the Royal Observatory. On February 7, 1712/3, the King requested
-the society to supply enquiries for his ambassadors. In 1742, and
-afterwards, it assisted in the determination of the standards. In 1780
-its public services were recognised by the grant of apartments in
-Somerset House. In 1784 it undertook a geodetical survey. Recently it
-has been entrusted by Parliament with a sum of £4,000 a year, which it
-allots towards encouraging scientific research. It has promoted many
-public movements, such as Arctic expeditions, magnetic observations,
-and the like. Originally its members were drawn from two classes--the
-working-men of science and the patrons of science; and the idea is
-even now maintained by certain privileges in respect of election given
-to privy councillors and peers; but the recent tendency has been to
-restrict its fellowship to persons eminent in physical science. The
-Royal Society Club was founded in 1743, and still flourishes.
-
-After the summary proceedings of James I., in 1604, the antiquaries
-seem to have allowed the whole of the seventeenth century to pass
-without any further attempt at organisation, though we learn from Mr.
-Ashmole that on July 2, 1659, an antiquaries' feast was held, and many
-renowned antiquaries, such as Dugdale, Spelman, Selden, and Anthony à
-Wood flourished at that time. On November 5, 1707, three antiquaries
-met at the "Bear" Tavern in the Strand, and agreed to hold a weekly
-meeting at the same place on Fridays at 6 o'clock, "and sit till ten at
-farthest." Other antiquaries joined them, and they removed next year to
-the "Young Devil" Tavern in Fleet Street, where Le Neve became their
-president.
-
-[Illustration:
-
-THE
-
-ROYAL SOCIETY'S
-
-LETTER.
-
-I have (by Order of the Royal Society) seen and examined the Method
-used by Mr JOHN MARSHALL, for grinding Glasses; and find that he
-performs the said Work with greater Ease and Certainty than hitherto
-has been practised; by means of an Invention which I take to be
-his own, and New; and whereby he is enabled to make a great number
-of Optick-Glasses at one time, and all exactly alike; which having
-reported to the Royal Society, they were pleased to approve thereof, as
-an Invention of great use; and highly to deserve Encouragement.
-
- Lond. Jan. 18. By the Command of the
- 1693, 4. Royal Society.
-
- EDM. HALLEY.
-
-_Note_, There are several Persons who pretend to have the Approbation
-of the ROYAL SOCIETY; but none has, or ever had it, but my self; as my
-Letter can testifie.
-
-_Marshall_s True SPECTACLES.
-
-AN EARLY LETTER OF THE ROYAL SOCIETY, DATED JANUARY 18TH, 1693-4.]
-
-In 1717 they resolved to form themselves into a society, which is the
-Society of Antiquaries now existing. Its minutes have been regularly
-kept since January 1, 1718. The first volume bears the motto:
-
- "Nec veniam antiquis, sed honorem et præmia posci.
-
- "Stukeley, secr., 1726";
-
-and the whole of the volume appears to be in Stukeley's autograph.
-
-In a quaint preliminary memorandum, he enumerates the "antient
-monuments" the society was to study, as:
-
- "Old Citys, Stations, Camps, public Buildings, Roads, Temples,
- Abbys, Churches, Statues, Tombs, Busts, Inscriptions,
- Castles, Ruins, Altars, Ornaments, Utensils, Habits, Seals,
- Armour, Pourtraits, Medals, Urns, Pavements, Mapps, Charts,
- Manuscripts, Genealogy, Historys, Observations, Emendations of
- Books, already published, and whatever may properly belong to
- the History of Bryttish Antiquitys."
-
-The earlier publications of the society consisted of a series of
-fine prints engraved by George Vertue. In 1747 it began the issue of
-_Vetusta Monumenta_, and in 1770 the first edition of the first volume
-of _Archæologia, or Miscellaneous Tracts relating to Antiquity_,
-appeared. The Society's resources were modest. In the year 1736 its
-income was only £61, but its expenditure was not more than £11, and its
-accumulated funds amounted to £134. In 1752 it obtained from George
-II., who declared himself to be the founder and patron of the society,
-a Royal Charter of Incorporation, reciting that:
-
- "the study of Antiquity and the History of former times, has
- ever been esteemed highly commendable and usefull, not only to
- improve the minds of men, but also to incite them to virtuous
- and noble actions, and such as may hereafter render them
- famous and worthy examples to late posterity."
-
-The qualifications of a fellow are thus defined in the charter:--
-
- "By how much any persons shall be more excelling in the
- knowledge of the Antiquities and History of this and other
- nations; by how much the more they are desirous to promote
- the Honour, Business, and Emoluments of this Society; and by
- how much the more eminent they shall be for Piety, Virtue,
- Integrity, and Loyalty: by so much the more fit and worthy
- shall such person be judged of being elected and admitted into
- the said Society."
-
-Like the Royal Society, the Society of Antiquaries was to have
-and employ a sergeant-at-mace, and apartments were allotted to it
-in Somerset House. From this close neighbourhood grew an intimate
-association between the two societies. Many persons belonged to both,
-and although the paths of the two societies have since diverged, that
-is still so in the case of about twenty fellows. A practice grew up
-of attending each other's meetings. For more than forty years that
-agreeable form of interchange has ceased, and the societies contemplate
-each other from opposite corners of the quadrangle of Burlington House.
-The Fellows of the Society of Antiquaries dined together for many years
-on St. George's Day, April 23, the day prescribed for their anniversary
-by the charter; but after a while the custom fell into disuse, and it
-has only been revived of late years.
-
-In 1753 the Society for the Encouragement of Arts, Manufactures, and
-Commerce, now called the Royal Society of Arts, was established. It
-held its first public meeting in March, 1754. It was incorporated by
-Royal Charter in 1847, and has for its objects:--
-
- "the encouragement of the arts, manufactures, and commerce
- of the country, by bestowing rewards for such productions,
- inventions, or improvements as tend to the employment of the
- poor, to the increase of trade, and to the riches and honour
- of the kingdom; and for meritorious works in the various
- departments of the fine arts; for discoveries, inventions
- and improvements in agriculture, chemistry, mechanics,
- manufactures, and other useful arts; for the application
- of such natural and artificial products, whether of home,
- colonial, or foreign growth and manufacture, as may appear
- likely to afford fresh objects of industry, and to increase
- the trade of the realm by extending the sphere of British
- commerce; and generally to assist in the advancement,
- development, and practical application of every department
- of science in connection with the arts, manufactures, and
- commerce of this country."
-
-Between 1754 and 1783 it distributed £28,434 by way of premiums for
-inventions. For more than a century and a half the society has devoted
-itself with unabated zeal to the promotion of its objects--by meetings,
-examinations, exhibitions, and in many other ways.
-
-On January 13, 1800, the Royal Institution was founded. In the words
-of one of its most distinguished professors, it has been a fertile
-source of the popularity of science. By means of its lectures, its
-laboratories, its libraries, and its rewards for research, it greatly
-stimulated public interest in scientific pursuits when there were few
-other bodies in existence capable of doing so. It continues to perform
-the same useful function, notwithstanding the great increase in the
-number of specialist societies since it was established. A feature of
-its lectures is the annual course "adapted to a juvenile auditory." It
-has appointed as its professors some of the most illustrious scientific
-men, such as Sir Humphry Davy (up to 1812), Brande (1813 to 1852, and
-afterwards as honorary professor), Faraday (1852), and Tyndall (1853).
-The late Prince Consort (Albert the Good) took great interest in its
-work, and frequently presided at its weekly meetings. It has a Board of
-Managers, and also a Committee of Visitors, annually elected, and the
-visitors make an annual report on the state of the institution. After
-some early pecuniary difficulties it entered on a career of steady
-prosperity.
-
-In 1807 the Geological Society was founded. The science of geology
-was very much opposed to popular notions derived from a literal
-interpretation of the Hebrew cosmogony, and was accordingly unpopular
-among those who held those notions; but the society steadily pursued
-its object, and can now look back upon the hundred years of its
-existence with pride and satisfaction. In one of his presidential
-addresses Sir Charles Lyell quoted the observation of Hutton, that
-"We can see neither the beginning nor the end of that vast series of
-phenomena which it is our business as geologists to investigate."
-Leonard Horner, another distinguished president, claimed that the
-society had been a "powerful instrument for the advancement of
-geological science, a centre of good fellowship, and a band of
-independent scientific men, who steadily and fearlessly promote the
-cause of truth." The society grants an annual medal, founded in memory
-of Wollaston, which has been frequently awarded to foreign geologists
-of distinction; and it also administers a fund bequeathed by him to
-promote useful researches in geology.
-
-In November, 1820, Dr. Burgess, the Bishop of St. David's, obtained
-an audience of King George IV., and laid before him a plan for the
-establishment of a Royal Society of Literature. The King took so
-warm an interest in the project as to assign out of his privy purse
-an annual sum of 1,100 guineas, out of which pensions of 100 guineas
-each were awarded to ten royal associates of the society, and two
-medals annually granted to distinguished literary men. Among the
-royal associates were Samuel Taylor Coleridge, T. R. Malthus, William
-Roscoe, and Sharon Turner. Among the medallists were Dugald Stewart,
-Walter Scott, Robert Southey, Washington Irving, and Henry Hallam. Upon
-September 15, 1825, the society received its Charter of Incorporation,
-in which its object is defined to be:--
-
- "the advancement of literature by the publication of inedited
- remains of ancient literature, and of such works as may be
- of great intrinsic value, but not of that popular character
- which usually claims the attention of publishers; by the
- promotion of discoveries in literature; by endeavouring to fix
- the standard, as far as is practicable, and to preserve the
- purity of the English language; by the critical improvement
- of English lexicography; by the reading at public meetings of
- interesting papers on history, philosophy, poetry, philology,
- and the arts, and the publication of such of those papers as
- shall be approved of; by the assigning of honorary rewards to
- works of great literary merit, and to important discoveries in
- literature; and by establishing a correspondence with learned
- men in foreign countries for the purpose of literary enquiry
- and information."
-
-The first method, the publication of inedited and other works, has
-been greatly promoted by a bequest to the society of £1,692 from the
-Rev. Dr. Richards. Out of the income of this fund the _Orations of
-Hyperides_, edited by the Rev. Churchill Babington; the _Discourses
-of Philoxenus_, by Dr. E. A. Wallis Budge; the _Chronicle of Adam
-of Usk_, by Sir E. Maunde Thompson; Coleridge's _Christabel_, by
-E. H. Coleridge; and other valuable works have been provided. The
-_Transactions_ of the society also contain many important papers. On
-the death of George IV. the annual gift of 100 guineas to each of
-the ten royal associates was withdrawn. The society now acknowledges
-literary merit by the award of the diploma of Honorary Fellow. In this
-capacity many distinguished authors, both in this country and abroad,
-have been and are associated with the society.
-
-In its early years the society was hotly attacked by Macaulay, who
-held that its claim to be an appreciator of excellence in literature
-involved a claim to condemn literature of which it disapproved, and
-was equivalent to the establishment of a literary star-chamber. He
-illustrated this by a rather feeble apologue, and nothing in the
-subsequent history of the society has shown that his apprehensions
-had any foundation. It has been very modest in the exercise of the
-functions conferred upon it by its charter, which included the
-foundation of a college and the appointment of professors. At one time
-it did appoint a professor of English archæology and history, and it
-called upon every royal associate on his admission to select some
-branch of literature on which it should be his duty, once a year at
-least, to communicate some disquisition or essay. The subject chosen by
-Coleridge was a characteristic one:--
-
- "The relations of opposition and conjunction, in which the
- poetry (the Homeric and tragic), the religion, and the
- mysteries of ancient Greece stood each to the other; with
- the differences between the sacerdotal and popular religion;
- and the influences of theology and scholastic logic on the
- language and literature of Christendom from the 11th century."
-
-In pursuance of this undertaking he communicated a disquisition on the
-"Prometheus" of Æschylus.
-
-In 1827 the Royal Asiatic Society was founded. As its title implies,
-it devotes itself to the study of the languages, the literature, the
-history, and the traditions of the peoples of Asia, especially of those
-inhabiting our Indian dependency. It has enrolled in its ranks many,
-if not all, the great Indian administrators and the most distinguished
-Asiatic scholars. Daughter societies have been established in the three
-Presidencies, and have contributed to the collection of materials for
-its work. Its transactions are of acknowledged value and authority.
-In its rooms at Albemarle Street a library and museum have been
-collected. Its latest publication is a collection of Baluchi poems by
-Mr. Longworth Dames, which has also been issued to the members of the
-Folk-lore Society.
-
-On September 26, 1831, the British Association for the Advancement
-of Science held its first meeting at York. It originated in a letter
-addressed by Sir David Brewster to Professor Phillips, as secretary to
-the York Philosophical Society. The statement of its objects appended
-to its rules, as drawn up by the Rev. William Vernon Harcourt, is as
-follows:--
-
- "The Association contemplates no interference with the ground
- occupied by other institutions. Its objects are:--To give a
- stronger impulse and a more systematic direction to scientific
- inquiry--to promote the intercourse of those, who cultivate
- science in different parts of the British Empire, with one
- another and with foreign philosophers--to obtain a more
- general attention to the objects of science, and a removal of
- any disadvantages of a public kind which impede its progress."
-
-The association was well described by the late Mr. Spottiswoode
-as "general in its comprehensiveness; special in its sectional
-arrangement." The general business of its meetings consists (1) in
-receiving and discussing communications upon scientific subjects at
-the various sections into which it is divided; (2) in distributing,
-under the advice of a Committee of Recommendations, the funds arising
-from the subscriptions of members and associates; and (3) in electing
-a council upon whom devolves the conduct of affairs until the next
-meeting. Although the meetings are held in all parts of the United
-Kingdom, and have been held in Canada and South Africa, the British
-Association may be correctly described as a London learned society, as
-its headquarters are in London, where the council meets and directs
-its continuous activities. One principal feature of its work, that
-of the Research Committees, which, either with or without a grant of
-money, pursue special enquiries with the view of reporting to the
-next annual meeting, continues throughout the year. The original
-designation of what are now the sections was "Committees of Sciences,"
-and these were--(1) mathematics and general physics, (2) chemistry and
-mineralogy, (3) geology and geography, (4) zoology and botany, (5)
-anatomy and physiology, (6) statistics. The sectional arrangement was
-begun in 1835, and the sections are now constituted as follows--(_a_)
-mathematical and physical science, (_b_) chemistry, (_c_) geology,
-(_d_) zoology, (_e_) geography, (_f_) economic science and statistics,
-(_g_) engineering, (_h_) anthropology, (_i_) physiology, (_k_) botany,
-(_l_) educational science. At each annual meeting, which lasts a week,
-the president of the next meeting is chosen, but the previous president
-remains in office until the first day (Wednesday) of that meeting, when
-he introduces his successor, who delivers an address. Many memorable
-addresses have been delivered by the distinguished men who have held
-that office. Each section has also a president, chosen for the year,
-and he delivers an address at the opening of the proceedings of his
-section. These addresses usually relate to the progress during the
-year, or during recent years, of the science dealt with by the section,
-or to some interesting matter developed by the personal researches of
-the president himself. Men of eminence in the various sciences are
-generally selected for and willingly accept the office of Sectional
-President. The meetings of the British Association have been called
-a "Parliament of Science," and its influence in promoting scientific
-movements and rendering science popular has been very great.
-
-In 1833 the Royal Geographical Society was founded. It may fairly be
-called the most popular of all the special societies, having about
-4,000 members. It is also one of the most wealthy, having an income of
-about £10,000 a year. It has accumulated a fine series of maps, and a
-large library of geographical literature. Its quarterly journal is a
-store-house of the most recent information relating to geographical
-exploration. By medals and other rewards to explorers, by prizes
-awarded in schools and training colleges, by the loan of instruments to
-travellers, by the preparation of codes of instruction for their use,
-and in many other ways, it applies its resources to the extension of
-geographical knowledge. It has taken an active part in the promotion
-of Arctic and Antarctic exploration. As geographical researches are
-matters of great public interest, its meetings are sometimes important
-social functions, as on a recent occasion, when a foreign prince was
-the lecturer, and our King attended and spoke.
-
-On March 15, 1834, the Statistical Society (now Royal Statistical) was
-founded. It was one of the first fruits of the activity of the British
-Association, which established a Statistical Committee at the Cambridge
-meeting in 1833, with Babbage as president. Their report recommended
-the formation of a society for the careful collection, arrangement,
-discussion, and publication of facts bearing on or illustrating the
-complex relations of modern society in its social, economical, and
-political aspects, especially facts which can be stated numerically and
-arranged in tables. The first president was the Marquis of Lansdowne,
-and among his successors have been many statesmen, such as Lord John
-Russell, Mr. Gladstone, and Lord Goschen; authorities on finance, as
-Lord Overstone, Mr. Newmarch, and Lord Avebury; and eminent writers on
-statistics, as Dr. Farr, Sir Robert Giffen, and the Right Hon. Charles
-Booth. As becomes the orderly mind of a statistician, the society has
-been very regular in its publications, having for seventy years issued
-a yearly volume in quarterly parts, which form a veritable mine of
-statistical information.
-
-The society presents a Guy medal (in memory of Dr. W. A. Guy) to the
-authors of valuable papers or to others who have promoted its work, and
-a Howard medal (in memory of the great philanthropist) to the author of
-the best essay on a prescribed subject, generally having relation to
-the public health. It has accumulated a fine library of about 40,000
-volumes of a special character, containing the statistical publications
-of all civilised countries. It has conducted some special enquiries--as
-into medical charities, the production and consumption of meat and
-milk, and the farm school system of the Continent--upon which it has
-published reports.
-
-Among recent developments of statistical method in which the society
-has taken part may be mentioned the use of index-numbers for affording
-a standard of comparison between statistics of different years, and
-a means of correction of errors that would otherwise arise; and the
-increasing use of the higher mathematical analysis in determining
-the probabilities of error and defining the curves of frequency in
-statistical observations. Professor Edgeworth, Messrs. Bowley, Yule,
-Hooker, and others, have made contributions to the _Journal_ of the
-society on these matters.
-
-In 1844 an Ethnological Society was established, under the presidency
-of Sir Charles Malcolm. Dr. Richard King, the founder, became its
-secretary. In 1846 Dr. J. C. Prichard became president, and he and
-Dr. King fulfilled respectively the same functions in an ethnological
-sub-section of the section of zoology of the British Association, which
-then met for the first time. In Prichard's first anniversary address
-to the society, he defines ethnology as "the history of human races
-or of the various tribes of men who constitute the population of the
-world. It comprehends all that can be learned as to their origin and
-relations to each other." Prichard died in 1848, and Sir C. Malcolm
-resumed the presidency, which he held until his death on November 12,
-1851. In that year ethnology was transferred from the zoological to
-the geographical section of the British Association. Sir B. C. Brodie
-became the next president of the society. He retired in 1854, and was
-succeeded by Sir James Clark. The fourth and last volume of the first
-series of the society's _Journal_ was published in 1856, and a series
-of _Transactions_ begun in 1861. At that time Mr. John Crawfurd was
-president of the society, and he retained the office until his death in
-1868, when he was succeeded by Professor Huxley.
-
-In 1862 Dr. James Hunt, the Honorary Foreign Secretary of the
-Ethnological Society, withdrew from it, and founded the Anthropological
-Society of London, which held its first meeting on February 24, 1863,
-under his presidency. In his inaugural address, he defined anthropology
-as the science of the whole nature of man, and ethnology as the
-history or science of nations or races. The new society was active
-and aggressive. It published translations of works of such writers
-as Broca, Pouchet, Vogt, and Waitz, and of the famous treatise of
-Blumenbach. Some of the papers read before it attracted much attention,
-and were thought to have a political bias. Many men whose names were
-well known in the scientific world adhered to the Ethnological
-Society, and that society, under Mr. Crawfurd, entered upon a more
-active career. The rivalry between the two societies was prosecuted
-with great vigour until January, 1871, when Professor Huxley effected
-an amalgamation between them.
-
-The title of the combined societies was agreed upon as the
-"Anthropological Institute of Great Britain and Ireland," to which,
-in 1907, has been added by the King's command the prefix "Royal." In
-1871 the department of ethnology in the section of biology in the
-British Association became the department of anthropology, and in 1884
-anthropology became a section of itself. This was the final recognition
-by the Parliament of Science that Hunt had fought for twenty years
-before. In the interval, the claim of anthropology to this recognition
-had been established by many great works, such as Huxley's _Man's
-Place in Nature_, Darwin's _Descent of Man_, Tylor's _Early History
-of Mankind_, and Lubbock's _Prehistoric Times_. Besides its annual
-_Journal_, the Anthropological Institute publishes a monthly periodical
-entitled _Man_, and it has issued several separate monographs. In
-1878 the branch of anthropology, aptly termed "Folk-lore" by the late
-Mr. W. J. Thoms, became so popular as to call for the establishment
-of a separate society, which publishes a quarterly journal entitled
-_Folk-lore_, and has annually issued one or more volumes of collections
-of folk-lore.
-
-In 1844 a new departure was taken by the establishment of the British
-Archæological Association, a body which was intended to take the
-same place with regard to archæology that the British Association
-occupied with regard to science, holding meetings in various parts of
-the country where there existed objects of specially archæological
-interest. It held its first meeting at Canterbury, under the presidency
-of Lord Albert Conyngham (afterwards Lord Londesborough), and arranged
-its work in four sections--primæval, mediæval, architectural, and
-historical. Before a second meeting could be held, violent dissensions
-arose, and the association split into two. In the result honours were
-divided between the two bodies, those who retained the leadership
-of Lord Albert retaining also the title of British Archæological
-Association; while those who had for their president the Marquis of
-Northampton retained the control of the _Archæological Journal_, and
-adopted the title of "Archæological Institute of Great Britain and
-Ireland," to which has since been prefixed the word "Royal." Both
-bodies still exist, though the causes of controversy have long died out.
-
-Shortly afterwards, County Archæological Societies in London and
-greater London began to be formed. In 1846 the Sussex Society, in 1853
-the Essex Society, in 1854 the Surrey Society, in 1855 the London and
-Middlesex Society, and in 1857 the Kent Society were established.
-Each of these societies has published transactions and other works of
-solid value. In each the annual or more frequent excursion to places
-of archæological interest within the county is an essential feature,
-tending to the dissemination of knowledge and to the preservation
-of antiquities, and affording the advantages of social intercourse.
-Societies have also been established for the like purposes within
-more restricted areas, as in Hampstead, Battersea, Balham, Lewisham,
-Whitechapel, and elsewhere.
-
-Of merely publishing societies, the Percy, the Camden, the Shakespeare,
-and the Arundel have run their course; but many others, as the
-Roxburgh, the Harleian, the New Palæographic, and the Palæontological
-still exist to delight their subscribers with the reproduction of rare
-works.
-
-In this summary account of the principal Learned Societies of London it
-has not been possible to include many societies of great importance,
-such as the Colleges of Physicians and Surgeons, the numerous
-societies connected with other professional pursuits, the Linnæan,
-Zoological, Botanical, and other societies devoted to natural history;
-the Royal Astronomical Society, which has important public functions;
-the Royal Academy, and other institutions devoted to art. The roll of
-Learned Societies is being constantly increased. Among recent additions
-may be mentioned the British Academy for Historical Studies, and the
-Sociological Society.
-
-
-
-
-LITERARY SHRINES OF OLD LONDON
-
-BY ELSIE M. LANG
-
-From the Borough to St. James's
-
-
-Leigh Hunt was of opinion that "one of the best secrets of enjoyment is
-the art of cultivating pleasant associations," and, with his example
-before us, we will endeavour to recall some of those that are to be
-met with on a walk from the Borough to St. James's, from one of the
-poorest parts of our city to one of the richest. The Borough, dusty,
-noisy, toil-worn as it is, is yet, he tells us, "the most classical
-ground in the metropolis." From the "Tabard" inn--now only a memory,
-though its contemporary, the "George," hard by, gives us some idea
-of its look in mediæval times--there rode forth, one bright spring
-morning, "Sir Jeffrey Chaucer" and "nyne and twenty" pilgrims "in a
-companye ... to wenden on (a) pilgrimage to Caunterbury with ful devout
-courage." A fellow-poet of Chaucer's, John Gower, lies buried close at
-hand in Southwark Cathedral, "under a tomb of stone, with his image of
-stone also over him." He was one of the earliest benefactors of this
-church, then known as St. Mary Overy, and founded therein a chantry,
-where masses should be said for the benefit of his soul. Stones in
-the pavement of the choir likewise commemorate John Fletcher, Philip
-Massinger, and Edmund Shakespeare, who lie in unmarked graves somewhere
-within the precincts of the cathedral.
-
-Not a stone's throw from the Borough is the Bankside, extending from
-Blackfriars Bridge out beyond Southwark, a mean and dirty thoroughfare,
-with the grey Thames on one side, and on the other dull houses, grimy
-warehouses, and gloomy offices. How changed from the semi-rural resort
-of Elizabethan days, when swans floated on the river, and magnificent
-barges, laden with gaily dressed nobles and their attendants, were
-continually passing by! Great must have been the pleasure traffic
-then, for according to Taylor, "the Water Poet," who plied his trade
-as waterman and wrote his verses on the Bankside in the early days of
-Elizabeth's successor, "the number of watermen and those that live
-and are maintained by them, and by the labour of the oar and scull,
-between the bridge of Windsor and Gravesend, cannot be fewer than
-forty thousand; the cause of the greater half of which multitude hath
-been the players playing on the Bankside." Besides the players, the
-brilliant band of dramatists who shed lustre on the reign of the maiden
-Queen frequented it, not only on account of the pleasantness of its
-situation, but because of the near proximity of the theatres, for the
-Globe, the Rose, and the Hope all stood on the site now occupied by
-the brewery of Messrs. Barclay and Perkins, while the Swan was not
-far off. It is a well-authenticated fact that both Shakespeare and
-Ben Jonson played at the Globe, and patronised the "Falcon" tavern,
-the name of which still lingers in Falcon Dock and Falcon Wharf, Nos.
-79 and 80, Bankside; and while in the meantime they were producing
-their masterpieces, Chapman, Dekker, and Middleton were at the height
-of their fame, Beaumont and Fletcher about to begin their career, and
-Philip Massinger was newly arrived in town. Some of these Bankside
-dramatists were well born and rich--such as Francis Beaumont, whose
-father was a Knight and a Justice of the Common Pleas; and John
-Fletcher, who was a son of the Bishop of London. Others were of
-obscure birth and penniless--like Ben Jonson, who had been forced to
-follow the trade of a bricklayer, and Dekker and Marston, whom he
-twitted "with their defective doublet and ravelled satin sleeves," and
-Philip Massinger, who in early days went about begging urgently for
-the loan of £5. But whatever they had or lacked, certain it is that
-their common art levelled all barriers between them, for though the
-chief of all the friendships on the Bankside was that of Beaumont and
-Fletcher--between whom was "a wonderful consimilarity of fancy ...
-which caused the dearnesse of friendship between them so that they
-lived together on the Bankside ... (and had) the same cloaths and
-cloaks between them"--yet Massinger collaborated with Fletcher in at
-least thirteen plays, with Dekker in one, and with Ford in two, while
-Dekker was occasionally associated with Middleton, and Middleton with
-Webster and Drayton. But the Elizabethan dramatists did not confine
-themselves to the Bankside; on certain nights they repaired to the
-"Mermaid" tavern, which used to stand on the south side of Cheapside,
-between Bread and Friday Streets, to attend the meetings of the famous
-Mermaid Club, said to have been founded by Sir Walter Raleigh. Here
-were to be found Shakespeare, Spenser, Beaumont, Fletcher, Ben Jonson,
-Carew, Donne, and many others, in eager witty converse. Beaumont
-well described the brilliancy of these gatherings in his poem to Ben
-Jonson:--
-
- "What things have we seen
- Done at the Mermaid! Heard words that have been
- So nimble, and so full of subtle flame,
- As if that everyone from whence they came
- Had meant to put his whole wit in a jest
- And had resolved to live a fool the rest
- Of his dull life."
-
-Another favourite haunt of theirs was the "Boar's Head," which stood
-on the spot now marked by the statue of William IV., at the junction
-of Eastcheap and Gracechurch Street. At this tavern Falstaff and
-Prince Hal concocted many of their wildest pranks. In later days the
-Elizabethan poets and dramatists, led by Ben Jonson, went even further
-afield--to the "Devil" tavern, which stood at No. 1, Fleet Street,
-where they held their meetings in a room called the "Apollo," the chief
-adornments of which, a bust of Apollo and a board with an inscription,
-"Welcome to the oracle of Apollo," are still to be seen in an upper
-room of Messrs. Child's Bank, which now occupies the site. Ben Jonson
-tells us that "the first speech in my 'Catiline,' spoken to _Scylla's
-Ghost_, was writ after I had parted with my friends at the 'Devil'
-tavern; I had drank well that night, and had brave notions."
-
-We have records of the deaths of two at least of these dramatists on
-the Bankside--viz., that of Philip Massinger, who died "in his own
-house, near the play-house on the Bankside," in 1639; and Fletcher,
-"who dyed of the plague on the 19th of August, 1625." "The parish
-clerk," says Aubrey, "told me that he was his (Fletcher's) Taylor, and
-that Mr. Fletcher staying for a suit of cloathes before he retired into
-the country, Death stopped his journey and laid him low there."
-
-Cheapside, so named from the Chepe, or old London market, along the
-south side of the site of which it runs, has been a place of barter
-ever since the reign of Henry VI., when a market was held there daily
-for the sale of every known commodity. It is easy to see where the
-vendors of some of the articles had their stands by the names of the
-surrounding streets--Bread Street, Fish Street, Milk Street, etc.
-Later on the stalls were transformed into permanent shops, with a
-dwelling-place for their owners above, and a fair-sized garden at the
-back. Despite the commercial spirit that has always pervaded this
-region, it has given birth to two famous poets--the sweet songster
-Herrick, who sings in one of his poems of
-
- "The golden Cheapside where the earth
- Of Julia Herrick gave to me my birth,"
-
-golden, perhaps, having reference to his father, who was a goldsmith;
-and greater still, John Milton, who first saw the light in Bread
-Street, at the sign of the "Spread Eagle," in a house which was
-afterwards destroyed in the Great Fire. It must have been a house
-of comfortable dimensions, for it covered the site now occupied by
-Nos. 58 to 63, the business premises of a firm who exhibit a bust of
-Milton, with an inscription, in a room on their top floor. Milton's
-father, moreover, had grown rich in his profession, which was that of
-a scrivener, had been made a Judge, and knighted five years before
-the birth of his son, so it is evident the poet began life in easy
-circumstances. He was baptised in All Hallows, a church in Bread Street
-destroyed in 1897. In Bow Church there is a tablet in memory of Milton,
-which was taken from All Hallows. When he was ten years of age he
-began to go to Paul's School, which stood in those days on the east
-side of St. Paul's Churchyard, between Watling Street and Cheapside.
-Aubrey records that "when he went to schoole, when he was very young,
-he studied very hard, and sat up very late, commonly till twelve or
-one o'clock at night, and his father ordered the mayde to sitt up for
-him, and at these years (ten) he composed many copies of verses which
-might well have become a riper age." He continued at this school, the
-old site of which is marked by a tablet on a warehouse, until he was
-sixteen. Some twenty years later Samuel Pepys was a pupil at Paul's
-School, and later on in life witnessed its destruction in the Great
-Fire. Milton would seem to have always cherished a great affection for
-the city, for after his return from his travels he seldom lived beyond
-the sound of Bow Bells, once only venturing as far as Westminster;
-and when he died he was buried in St. Giles's, Cripplegate, in the
-same grave as his father. Indeed, the city proper was the birthplace
-of several poets, for was not Pope born in Lombard Street, Gray in
-Cornhill, and Edmund Spenser in East Smithfield, while Lord Macaulay
-spent his earlier years in Birchin Lane?
-
-[Illustration: CHEAPSIDE, WITH THE CROSS, AS THEY APPEARED IN 1660.]
-
-In the narrow confines of Paternoster Row, where the tall fronts of
-the houses are so close together that only a thin strip of sky is
-visible between them, Charlotte Brontë and her sister Anne, fresh from
-the rugged solitudes of their bleak Yorkshire moors, awoke on the
-morning of their first visit to the great capital of which they had
-so often dreamed, and, looking out of the dim windows of the Chapter
-Coffee-house, saw "the risen sun struggling through the fog, and
-overhead above the house-tops, co-elevate almost with the clouds ... a
-solemn orbed mass dark blue and dim the dome" (of St. Paul's).
-
-Fleet Street has always been the haunt of the "knights of the pen,"
-and even in these modern days the names of newspapers stare at the
-passer-by on every side, while at every step he jostles an ink-stained
-satellite of some great journal. But although these ink-stained ones
-are to be met with in Fleet Street at every hour of the day and night,
-they do not live there like the writers of old time--Michael Drayton,
-for instance, who "lived at ye baye-windowe house next the east end
-of St. Dunstan's Church"; and Izaak Walton, who kept a linen-draper's
-shop "in a house two doors west of the end of Chancery Lane," and on
-his infrequent holidays went a-fishing in the River Lea at Tottenham
-High Cross. Abraham Cowley, again, was born over his father's grocer's
-shop, which "abutted on Sargeants' Inn," and here, as a little child,
-he devoured the _Faerie Queen_, and was made "irrecoverably a poet."
-James Shirley lived near the Inner Temple Lane; John Locke in Dorset
-Court. In Salisbury Square, formerly Salisbury Court, Thomas Sackville,
-first Earl of Dorset, the precursor of Spenser, John Dryden, and Samuel
-Richardson, all had a residence at one time or another. Richardson
-built a large printing establishment on the site now occupied by
-Lloyd's newspaper offices, where he continued to carry on business many
-years after he had removed his private residence to the West End. He
-was buried, moreover, in St. Bride's Church in 1761, a large stone in
-the nave between pews 12 and 13 recording the fact. But greatest and
-most constant of Fleet Street habitués was Dr. Johnson. For ten years
-he lived at 17, Gough Square, busy in an upper room upon his great
-Dictionary. Here he lost his "beloved Tetty," to whose memory he ever
-remained faithful. "All his affection had been concentrated on her. He
-had neither brother nor sister, neither son nor daughter." Although
-twenty years his senior, with a complexion reddened and coarsened
-by the too liberal use of both paint and strong cordials, yet "to
-him she was beautiful as the Gunnings, and witty as Lady Mary." On
-leaving Gough Square he lived for a few years in the Temple, where he
-received his first visit from Boswell, and made the acquaintance of
-Oliver Goldsmith. The latter was then living at 6, Wine Office Court,
-Fleet Street, where Johnson, visiting him one morning in response
-to an urgent message, found that "his landlady had arrested him for
-his rent." He showed Johnson his MS. of the just-completed _Vicar of
-Wakefield_, which he looked into, and instantly comprehending its
-merit, went out and sold it to a bookseller for sixty pounds. In 1765
-Johnson returned to Fleet Street, and lived for eleven years at 7,
-Johnson's Court. Here Boswell dined with him for the first time on
-Easter Day, 1773, and found to his surprise "everything in very good
-order." Walking up the Court one day in company with Topham Beauclerk,
-Boswell confessed to him that he "had a veneration" for it, because
-the great doctor lived there, and was much gratified to learn that
-Beauclerk felt the same "reverential enthusiasm." In later years
-Dickens stole up this Court one dark December evening, and, with
-beating heart, dropped his first original MS. into the letter-box
-of _The Monthly Magazine_, the office of which stood on the site
-now occupied by Mr. Henry Sell's premises. No. 8, Bolt Court, was
-the next and last residence of Dr. Johnson; here, on December 13th,
-1784, he met the inevitable crisis, for which he had always felt an
-indescribable terror and loathing, and passed peacefully and happily
-away. Johnson had always had a great predilection for club or tavern
-life, partly because it enabled him to escape for a while from the
-hypochondria which always dogged his footsteps. He loved nothing so
-much as to gather kindred spirits around him and spend long evenings
-in congenial conversation. He would sit, "the Jupiter of a little
-circle, sometimes indeed nodding approbation, but always prompt on the
-slightest contradiction to launch the thunders of rebuke and sarcasm."
-There was not much expense attached to these gatherings, for it is
-recorded of one of the clubs he founded that the outlay was not to
-exceed sixpence per person an evening, with a fine of twopence for
-those who did not attend. Among the Fleet Street haunts thus frequently
-resorted to by Dr. Johnson and his friends were the "Cocke," patronised
-in former years by Pepys, and in later years by Thackeray, Dickens,
-and Tennyson; the "Cheshire Cheese," the only house of the kind which
-remains as it was in Dr. Johnson's day; the "Mitre," also formerly
-patronised by Pepys; and the "Devil," where the poets laureate had been
-wont to repair and read their birthday odes. St. Clement Danes, too, is
-connected with Johnson, for, in spite of his love of festivity, he was
-devout, and regularly attended this church, occupying pew No. 18 in the
-north gallery, now marked by a brass plate. Boswell records that "he
-carried me with him to the church of St. Clement Danes, where he had
-his seat, and his behaviour was, as I had imagined to myself, solemnly
-devout."
-
-One more memory of Fleet Street before we leave it, in connection
-with Dick's Coffee-house, which used to stand at Nos. 7 and 8. In
-December, 1763, the poet Cowper, then a student in the Inner Temple,
-was appointed Clerk of the Journals of the House of Lords. Delicate,
-shy, intensely sensitive, and with a strong predisposition to insanity,
-the dread of these onerous public duties disturbed the balance of
-his morbid brain. His madness broke out one morning at Dick's, as he
-himself afterwards narrated. He said:
-
- "At breakfast I read the newspaper, and in it a letter,
- which the further I perused it the more closely engaged my
- attention. I cannot now recollect the purport of it; but
- before I had finished it, it appeared demonstratively true to
- me that it was a libel or satire upon me. The author appeared
- to be acquainted with my purpose of self-destruction, and
- to have written that letter on purpose to secure and hasten
- the execution of it. My mind probably at this time began to
- be disordered; however it was, I was certainly given to a
- strong delusion. I said within myself, 'Your cruelty shall be
- gratified, you shall have your revenge,' and flinging down the
- paper in a fit of strong passion, I rushed hastily out of the
- room, directing my way towards the fields, where I intended
- to find some lane to die in, or if not, determined to poison
- myself in a ditch, when I could meet with one sufficiently
- retired."
-
-This paroxysm ended in Cowper trying to hang himself, but, the rope
-breaking, he went down to the Thames to the Custom House Quay and
-threatened to drown himself. This attempt, however, also failed, and
-friends interfering, he was removed to an asylum, where he remained
-eighteen months.
-
-From Fleet Street it is but a step to the Temple, with its grey quiet
-corners full of echoing memories, stretching back even to the days of
-Shakespeare, whose _Twelfth Night_ was performed before an audience
-of his contemporaries in the self-same Middle Temple Hall that still
-confronts us. The names of Henry Fielding, Edmund Burke, John Gower,
-Thomas Shadwell, William Wycherley, Nicholas Rowe, Francis Beaumont,
-William Congreve, John Horne Tooke, Thomas Day, Tom Moore, Sheridan,
-George Colman, jun., Marston, and Ford, are all upon the Temple rolls
-and each must in his day have been a familiar figure among the ancient
-buildings. But Charles Lamb is the presiding genius of the place.
-
- "I was born and passed the first seven years of my life in the
- Temple," he tells us. "Its church, its halls, its garden, its
- fountains, its river ... these are my oldest recollections.
- Indeed it is the most elegant spot in the metropolis. What
- a transition for a countryman visiting London for the first
- time, the passing from the crowded Strand or Fleet Street, by
- unexpected avenues into its magnificent ample squares, its
- classic green recesses. What a cheerful liberal look hath that
- portion of it, which from three sides, overlooks the greater
- gardens, that goodly pile ... confronting with massy contrast,
- the lighter, older, more fantastically shrouded one, named
- of Harcourt, with the cheerful Crown Office Row (place of my
- kindly engendure) right opposite the stately stream, which
- washes the garden foot.... A man would give something to have
- been born in such a place."
-
-When Lamb was twenty-five years of age he went back to live in the
-Temple, at 16, Mitre Court Buildings, in an "attic storey for the air."
-His bed faced the river, and by "perking on my haunches and supporting
-my carcase with my elbows, without much wrying my neck I can see,"
-he wrote to a friend, "the white sails glide by the bottom of King's
-Bench Walk as I lie in my bed." Here he passed nine happy years, and
-then, after a short stay in Southampton Buildings, he returned to the
-Temple for the second time, to 4, Inner Temple Lane, fully intending
-to pass the remainder of his life within its precincts. His new set of
-chambers "looked out upon a gloomy churchyard-like court, called Hare
-Court, with three trees and a pump in it." But fate intervened, and
-he and his sister soon after left the Temple, never to return. It was
-no easy parting, however, for he wrote in after years, "I thought we
-never could have been torn up from the Temple. Indeed it was an ugly
-wrench.... We never can strike root so deep in any other ground."
-
-It was when Dr. Johnson had a set of chambers on the first floor of No.
-1, Inner Temple Lane, that Boswell first went to see him. Boswell wrote:
-
- "He received me very courteously, but it must be confessed
- that his apartment, furniture, and morning dress were
- sufficiently uncouth. His brown suit of clothes looked very
- rusty, he had on a little old shrivelled unpowdered wig which
- was too small for his head, his shirt-neck and knees of his
- breeches were loose, his black worsted stockings ill drawn up,
- and he had a pair of unbuckled shoes by way of slippers. But
- all these slovenly peculiarities were forgotten the moment
- that he began to talk."
-
-Boswell, indeed, conceived so violent an admiration for him that he
-took rooms in Farrar's Buildings in order to be near him. Oliver
-Goldsmith seems to have followed his example, for he went to lodge
-first in 2, Garden Court, and afterwards in 2, Brick Court, on the
-right-hand side, looking out over the Temple Garden. Thackeray, who,
-years afterwards, lodged in the same set of rooms, wrote:
-
- "I have been many a time in the Chambers in the Temple which
- were his, and passed up the staircase, which Johnson and Burke
- and Reynolds trod to see their friend, their poet, their kind
- Goldsmith--the stair on which the poor women sat weeping
- bitterly when they heard that the greatest and most generous
- of men was dead within the black oak door."
-
-A stone slab with the inscription, "Here lies Oliver Goldsmith," was
-placed on the north side of Temple Church, as near as possible to the
-spot where he is supposed to have been buried.
-
-No. 2, Fountain Court, was the last house of William Blake, the
-poet-painter, the seer of visions, who had a set of rooms on the first
-floor, from whence a glimpse of the river was to be obtained. It was
-very poorly furnished, though always clean and orderly, and decorated
-only with his own pictures, but to the eager young disciples who
-flocked around him it was "the house of the Interpreter." When he lay
-there upon his death-bed, at the close of a blazing August day in 1827,
-beautiful songs in praise of his Creator fell from his lips, and as
-his wife, his faithful companion of forty-five years of struggle and
-stress, drew near to catch them more distinctly, he told her with a
-smile, "My beloved! they are not mine! no, they are not mine!"
-
-Passing out into the Strand, we are confronted by the Law Courts. In
-former days this site was occupied by a network of streets, one of
-which was Shire Lane, where the members of the Kit Cat Club first held
-their gatherings, and toasted Lady Mary Wortley Montagu, when, as a
-child of seven, enthroned on her proud father's knee, she spent "the
-happiest hour of her life," overwhelmed with caresses, compliments,
-and sweetmeats. The famous "Grecian" stood in Devereux Court, and the
-"Fountain" where Johnson, on his first arrival in London, read his
-tragedy _Irene_ to his fellow-traveller Garrick, on the site since
-occupied by Simpson's for several generations. The Strand "Turk's Head"
-was at No. 142, and patronised by Johnson, because "the mistress of
-it is a good civil woman and has not much business"; and the "Coal
-Hole," immortalised by Thackeray as the "Cave of Harmony" in _The
-Newcomes_, where Terry's Theatre now uprears its front. But the chief
-literary association of the Strand is that of Congreve, who spent
-his last years in Surrey Street, "almost blind with cataracts," and
-"never rid of the gout," but looking, as Swift wrote to Stella, "young
-and fresh and cheerful as ever." He had always been a favourite with
-society, and Surrey Street was thronged by his visitors, among whom
-were four of the most beautiful women of the day--Mrs. Bracegirdle,
-Mrs. Oldfield, Lady Mary Wortley Montagu, and Henrietta Duchess of
-Marlborough. Voltaire, too, who greatly admired his work, sought him
-out when staying at the "White Peruke," Covent Garden, and was much
-disgusted by the affectation with which Congreve begged to be regarded
-as a man of fashion, who produced airy trifles for the amusement of his
-idle hours. "If you had been so unfortunate as to have been a _mere_
-gentleman," said Voltaire, "I should never have taken the trouble of
-coming to see you." In spite of the looseness of his life, Congreve had
-early acquired habits of frugality, and continuing to practise them
-when the need for economy had disappeared, he contrived to amass a
-fortune of £10,000, which, on his death in 1789, he bequeathed to the
-Duchess of Marlborough, his latest infatuation. This sum, which would
-have restored the fallen fortunes of his nearest relatives, was a mere
-nothing to the wealthy beauty, who expended it in the purchase of a
-magnificent diamond necklace, which she continually wore in memory of
-the dead dramatist.
-
-The whole of Covent Garden is classic ground, from its association
-with the wits of Dryden's time, when Bow Street and Tavistock Street
-were in turn regarded as the Bond Street of the fashionable world.
-Edmund Waller, William Wycherley, and Henry Fielding, each lived in
-Bow Street. In Russell Street stood the three great coffee-houses of
-the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries--Wills', Button's, and Tom's.
-Wills' stood at No. 21, at the corner of Russell Street and Bow Street;
-here Pepys stopped one February evening on his way to fetch his wife,
-and heard much "witty and pleasant discourse"; here Dryden had his
-special arm-chair, in winter by the fire, and in summer on the balcony,
-and was always ready to arbitrate in any literary dispute. It is said
-that Pope, before he was twelve years old, persuaded his friends to
-bring him here, so that he might gaze upon the aged Dryden, the hero of
-his childish imagination. Dr. Johnson, Addison, Steele, and Smollett
-were all regular visitors. Button's, which stood on the south side of
-Russell Street, and Tom's at No. 17, were equally popular, and the
-Bedford Coffee-house "under the piazza in Covent Garden" was another
-favourite resort.
-
-It was in Russell Street, in the bookshop of Thomas Davies, the actor,
-that Boswell had his eagerly desired first meeting with Dr. Johnson,
-which he describes as follows:--
-
- "At last, on Monday, the 16th of May, when I was sitting in
- Mr. Davies' back parlour, after having drunk tea with him and
- Mrs. Davies, Johnson came unexpectedly into the shop, and Mr.
- Davies having perceived him through the glass door in the room
- in which we were sitting advancing towards us, he announced
- his awful approach to me somewhat in the manner of an actor
- in the part of Horatio, when he addresses Hamlet on the
- appearance of his father's ghost: 'Look, my lord, he comes.'"
-
-In St. Paul's, Covent Garden, were buried Samuel Butler, author
-of _Hudibras_, Mrs. Centlivre, Thomas Southerne, John Wolcot, and
-Wycherley, but when the church was burned down in 1786 all trace of
-their graves disappeared.
-
-One other literary memory before we leave the Strand; it is connected
-with what was once No. 30, Hungerford Stairs (now part of Villiers
-Street), where stood Warren's blacking factory, in which the child
-Dickens passed days of miserable drudgery, labelling pots of blacking
-for a few shillings a week. He describes it in _David Copperfield_,
-under the name of "Murdstone and Grimsby's warehouse, down in
-Blackfriars." It was "a crazy old house, with a wharf of its own,
-abutting on the water when the tide was in, and on the mud when the
-tide was out, and literally overrun with rats."
-
-Pall Mall, the centre of club-land, in the eighteenth century was
-the "ordinary residence of all strangers," probably on account of
-its proximity to the fashionable chocolate and coffee-houses (the
-forerunners of the clubs), which, as Defoe wrote, "were all so close
-together that in an hour you could see the company at them all." In
-Pall Mall itself were the "Smyrna," the "King's Arms," and the "Star
-and Garter." At the "King's Arms" the Kit Cat Club met when it had
-quitted its quarters in Shire Lane, and at the "Star and Garter" the
-"Brothers" were presided over by Swift. The "Tully's Head," a bookshop
-kept by the wonderful Robert Dodsley, footman, poet, dramatist, and
-publisher, was another favourite lounging place of the times.
-
-In Charing Cross were the "Rummer," at No. 45, kept by the uncle of
-Matthew Prior; Lockett's, two doors off; the "Turk's Head," next door
-to No. 17; and the British Coffee-house, which stood on the site now
-occupied by the offices of the London County Council.
-
-In St. James's Street the great coffee and chocolate-houses positively
-elbowed each other up and down, just as the clubs which succeeded them
-do in the present day. The "Thatched House," where the Literary Club,
-founded by Dr. Johnson, held its meetings under the presidency of Swift
-and his contemporaries; the "St. James's," where Addison "appeared
-on Sunday nights," and "Swift was a notable figure," for "those who
-frequented the place had been astonished day after day, by the entry
-of a clergyman, unknown to any there, who laid his hat on the table,
-and strode up and down the room with rapid steps, heeding no one, and
-absorbed in his own thoughts. His strange manner earned him, unknown as
-he was to all, the name of the "mad parson""; White's, to which Colley
-Cibber was the only English actor ever admitted; and the "Cocoa Tree,"
-nicknamed the "Wits' Coffee-house," which, in Gibbon's time, afforded
-"every evening a sight truly English. Twenty or thirty, perhaps, of the
-finest men in the kingdom, in point of fashion and fortune, supping at
-little tables covered with a napkin, in the middle of a coffee-room,
-upon a bit of cold meat or a sandwich and drinking a glass of punch."
-
-Lord Byron was the most romantic literary figure connected with St.
-James's Street. His first home in London, after his youthful days, was
-at No. 8, where he went to live after the publication of his _English
-Bards and Scotch Reviewers_. From this house the proud and gloomy young
-man set forth to take his seat in the House of Lords as a peer of the
-realm. Moore wrote:
-
- "In a state more alone and unfriended, perhaps, than any youth
- of his high station had ever before been reduced to on such
- an occasion--not having a single individual of his own class,
- either to take him by the hand as friend, or acknowledge him
- as an acquaintance."
-
-But this state of affairs was not to endure. On February 29th, 1812,
-_Childe Harold_ appeared.
-
- "The effect was electric; his fame had not to wait for any
- of the ordinary gradations, but seemed to spring up like the
- palace of a fairy tale--in a night.... From morning till
- night flattering testimonies of his success reached him; the
- highest in the land besieged his door, and he who had been so
- friendless found himself the idol of London society."
-
-Perhaps we cannot do better than end these literary associations of
-club-land with a few words about a man who in his time was one of its
-most brilliant figures--Theodore Hook. When he was released from the
-King's Bench prison, with his debt to the Crown still hanging over him,
-
- "he took a large and handsome house in Cleveland Row. Here he
- gave dinners on an extensive scale, and became a member of all
- the best clubs, particularly frequenting those where high play
- was the rule. His visiting book included all that was loftiest
- and gayest and in every sense most distinguished in London
- society. The editor of _John Bull_, the fashionable novelist,
- the wittiest and most vivid talker of the time, his presence
- was not only everywhere welcome but everywhere coveted and
- clamoured for. But the whirl of extravagant dissipation
- emptied his pocket, fevered his brain, and shortened the
- precious hours in which alone his subsistence could be gained."
-
-In the height of his social triumphs there always hung inexorably over
-him the Damocles sword of debt. When at last he gave way under the
-strain, and went into comparative retirement at Fulham, the number of
-dinners at the Athenæum Club, where he had always had a particular
-table kept for him near the door (nicknamed Temperance Corner), fell
-off by upwards of three hundred per annum.
-
- * * * * *
-
-These are a few out of the many literary memories that we may encounter
-in an afternoon's stroll from the Borough to St. James's, along one of
-the great city's busiest highways; others, indeed, there are, meeting
-us at every corner, but space forbids our dwelling upon them, and
-regretfully we must pass them by.
-
-
-
-
-CROSBY HALL
-
-BY THE EDITOR
-
-
-Few old mansions in the city of London could rival the ancient
-dwelling-place of the brave old knight, Sir John Crosby. Its
-architectural beauties and historical associations endeared it to all
-lovers of old London, and many a groan was heard when its fate was
-doomed, and the decree went forth that it was to be numbered among the
-departed glories of the city. Unhappily, the hand of the destroyer
-could not be stayed, and the earnest hope had to be abandoned that
-many a generation of Londoners might be permitted to see this relic
-of ancient civic life, and to realise from this example the kind of
-dwelling-place wherein the city merchants of olden days made their
-homes, and the salient features of mediæval domestic architecture.
-Shorn of its former magnificence, reduced to a fraction of its original
-size, it retained evidences of its ancient state and grandeur, and
-every stone and timber told of its departed glories, and of the great
-events of which Crosby Hall had been the scene. It has been associated
-with many a name that shines forth in the annals of English history,
-and imagination could again people the desolate hall with a gay company
-of courtiers and conspirators, of knights and dames, of city merchants
-gorgeous in their liveries of "scarlet and green," or "murrey and
-plunket," when pomp and pageantry, tragedy and death, dark councils
-and mirth, and gaiety and revellings followed each other through the
-portals of the mansion in one long and varied procession. It will be
-our pleasure to recall some of these scenes which were enacted long
-ago, and to tell of the royal, noble, and important personages who made
-this house their home.
-
-Many people who live in our great overgrown modern London--who dwell
-in the West End, and never wander further east than Drury Lane Theatre
-or St. Pancras Station--have never seen Crosby Hall, and know not
-where it stood. If you go along Cheapside and to the end of Cornhill,
-and then turn to the left, up Bishopsgate, the old house stood on the
-right hand side; or you may approach along Holborn and London Wall.
-Alas! the pilgrimage is no longer possible. Bishopsgate is historic
-ground. The name is derived from the ancient gate of the city that
-was built, according to Stow, by some Bishop of London, "though now
-unknown when or by whom, for ease of passengers toward the east, and by
-north, as into Norfolk, Suffolk, Cambridgeshire, &c." Some authorities
-name Bishop Erkenwald, son of King Offa, as the first builder of
-Bishopsgate, and state that Bishop William, the Norman, repaired the
-gate in the time of his namesake, the Conqueror. Henry III. confirmed
-to the German merchants of the Hanse certain liberties and privileges,
-which were also confirmed by Edward I. in the tenth year of his reign,
-when it was discovered that the merchants were bound to repair the
-gate. Thereupon Gerald Marbod, alderman of the Hanse, and other Hanse
-merchants, granted 210 marks sterling to the Mayor and citizens, and
-covenanted that they and their successors should from time to time
-repair the gate. In 1479, in the reign of Edward IV., it was entirely
-rebuilt by these merchants, and was a fine structure adorned with the
-effigies of two bishops, probably those named above, and with two
-other figures supposed to represent King Alfred and Alred, Earl of
-Mercia, to whom Alfred entrusted the care of the gate. This repair
-was probably necessary on account of the assault of the bastard
-Falconbridge on this and other gates of the city, who shot arrows and
-guns into London, fired the suburbs, and burnt more than three-score
-houses. The gate has been frequently repaired and rebuilt, its last
-appearance being very modern, with a bishop's mitre on the key-stone
-of the arch, and surmounted by the city arms with guarding griffins.
-London "improvements" have banished the gate, as they have so many
-other interesting features of the city.
-
-The neighbourhood is interesting. Foremost among the attractions of
-Bishopsgate Street is the beautiful church of St. Helen, formerly the
-church of the Nunnery of St. Helen, the Westminster of the city, where
-lie so many illustrious merchants and knights and dames, and amongst
-them the founder of Crosby Hall and other owners of the mansion. The
-church is closely associated with the hall. There in that fine house
-they lived. There in the church hard by their bodies sleep, and their
-gorgeous tombs and inscriptions tell the story of their deeds. St.
-Helen's Church was one of the few which escaped destruction at the
-Great Fire of London. There was an early Saxon church here, but the
-earliest parts of the existing building date back to the thirteenth
-century. There are some blocked-up lancet windows of the transept, a
-staircase doorway in the south-east corner, another doorway which led
-from the nun's choir into the convent, and a lancet window. There is a
-Renaissance porch, the work of Inigo Jones, erected in 1663. The main
-part of the structure is Decorated and Perpendicular, the fifteenth
-century work being due to the builder of Crosby Hall, who left 500
-marks for its restoration and improvement. The whole church possesses
-many interesting features, of which want of space prevents a full
-description.
-
-[Illustration: CROSBY HALL.]
-
-Sir John Crosby determined to seek a site for his house close to this
-church and the Nunnery of St. Helen, and in 1466 obtained a lease from
-Alice Ashford, prioress of the Nunnery, of some lands and tenements
-for a period of ninety-nine years for the yearly rent of £11 6s. 8d.
-Doubtless many good citizens of London in the present day would like to
-make so good a bargain.
-
-Sir John Crosby, whose honoured name is preserved to this day by
-the noble house which he built, was a worthy and eminent citizen of
-London--one of the men who laid the foundations of English trade and
-commercial pre-eminence. He attained to great wealth, and his actions
-and his bequests prove that he was a very worthy man. Some idle story
-stated that, like the famous Dick Whittington, he was of humble origin
-and unknown parentage. Stow says: "I hold it a fable said of him,
-to be named Crosby, from his being found by a cross." A very pretty
-conceit! He was discovered, when an infant, or having attained the age
-of boyhood, sleeping on the steps of the market cross at Cheapside
-or Charing; and the sympathetic folk who found him there named him
-Cross-by! Our ancestors, like ourselves, loved a romance, a nice
-cheerful story of a poor boy attaining to rank and opulence, marrying
-his master's daughter and doing brave deeds for his King and country.
-The notable career of Sir Richard Whittington, thrice Lord Mayor of
-London, was so embellished with romantic incident. He was no poor
-man's son who begged his way to London, accompanied by his favourite
-cat. Was he not the youngest son of Sir William Whittington, the owner
-of Pauntley Manor in Gloucestershire, and of Solers Hope, Hereford?
-and was not his famous cat the name of his ship which brought him
-wealth and affluence? Or shall we accept the story of the sale of the
-cat to the King of Barbary? So the legend of the foundling Crosby is
-equally a fable, woven by the skilful imaginations of our Elizabethan
-forefathers. Sir John came of goodly parentage. There was a Johan de
-Crosbie, King's Clerk in Chancery, in the time of Edward II.; a Sir
-John Crosbie, Knight, and Alderman of London, in the reign of Edward
-III.; and a John Crosby, Esquire, and servant of King Henry IV., who
-gave to him the wardship of Joan, daughter and sole heir of John
-Jordaine, Fishmonger--_i.e._, a member of the Worshipful Company of
-Fishmongers of the City of London. This John Crosby was, according to
-Stow, either the father or grandfather of the builder of Crosby Hall.
-
-The family held the manor and advowson of the church of
-Hanworth-on-the-Thames, not far from Hampton Court. This manor was
-owned by the Sir John Crosbie who lived in the time of King Edward
-III., and after his death it was placed in the hands of a certain
-Thomas Rigby for safe custody until John Crosbie, the son and heir
-of the knight, should have grown up to man's estate and attained his
-majority. This estate seems afterwards to have passed into the hands of
-King Henry VIII., who, on account of its pleasant situation, delighted
-in it above any other of his houses.
-
-The father of the founder of the Hall was a friend of Henry Lord
-Scrope, of Masham, the unfortunate nobleman who was beheaded at
-Southampton for complicity in a plot against the life of Henry V. He
-bequeathed to his friend, John Crosbie, "a woollen gown without furs
-and one hundred shillings."
-
-_Bene natus_, _bene vestitus_, and doubtless _modice doctus_, the
-qualifications of an All Souls' Fellow, John Crosby began his career,
-embarking in trade and commerce, and undertaking the duties of a
-worthy citizen of London. The palmy days of commercial enterprise
-inaugurated by King Henry VII. had not yet set in. Before his time
-the trade between England and the Continent was much more in the
-hands of foreigners than of English merchants. English trading ships
-going abroad to sell English goods and bring back cargoes of foreign
-commodities were few in number. The English merchant usually stayed
-at home, and sold his wares to the strangers who came each year to
-London and the other trading ports, or bartered them for the produce of
-other lands, with which their ships were freighted. The German Hanse
-merchants, the Flemish traders, the Lombards, and many others, enjoyed
-great privileges in their commerce with England. But, in spite of this,
-men like Crosby were able to amass wealth and make large profits. Sir
-John's dealings extended far into other countries, and he had important
-connections with the Friscobaldi of Florence, who with the Medici were
-the great bankers and engrossers of the commerce of Europe.
-
-Of the great merchants who laid the foundations of our English commerce
-we often know little more than their names, the offices they held,
-with a meagre catalogue of their most philanthropic labours and their
-wills. It is possible, however, to gather a little more information
-concerning the owner of Crosby Place. The records at Guildhall tell
-us that in 1466, the seventh year of Edward IV., John Crosby, Grocer,
-was elected with three others a Member of Parliament. He was also
-elected in the same year one of the auditors of the City and Bridge
-House. In 1468 we find him elected Alderman of Broad Street Ward, and
-two years later Sheriff of London. He took a prominent part in the old
-city life of London, and was a prominent member of two of the old City
-Companies, the Grocers and the Woolmen. Of the former he twice served
-the office of warden, and preserved a strong affection for his company,
-bequeathing to it by his will considerable gifts. The honourable and
-important post of Mayor of the Staple at Calais was also conferred upon
-him.
-
-He seems to have been a brave and valiant man, as well as a successful
-trader and good citizen. During his time the safety of the City of
-London was endangered owing to the attack of Thomas Nevil, the bastard
-Lord Falconbridge, to which reference has already been made. Stow
-tells the story graphically. This filibusterer came with his rebel
-company and a great navy of ships near to the Tower--
-
- "Whereupon the mayor and aldermen fortified all along the
- Thames side, from Baynard's Castle to the Tower, with armed
- men, guns and other instruments of war, to resist the invasion
- of the mariners, whereby the Thames side was safely preserved
- and kept by the aldermen and other citizens that assembled
- thither in great numbers. Whereupon the rebels, being denied
- passage through the city that way, set upon Aeldgate,
- Bishopsgate, Criplegate, Aeldersgate, London Bridge, and along
- the river of Thames, shooting arrows and guns into the city,
- fired the suburbs, and burnt more than three score houses.
- And farther, on Sunday, the eleventh of May, five thousand of
- them assaulting Aeldgate, won the bulwarks, and entered the
- city; but the portclose being let down, such as had entered
- were slain, and Robert Basset, portcullis alderman of Aeldgate
- ward, with the recorder, commanded in the name of God to
- draw up the portclose; which being done, they issued out,
- and with sharp shot and fierce fight, put their enemies back
- so far as St. Bottolph's Church, by which time Earl Rivers,
- and lieutenant of the Tower, was come with a fresh company,
- which joining together discomfited the rebels, and put them to
- flight, whom the said Rober, Basset with the other citizens
- chased to the Mile's End, and from thence, some to Poplar,
- some to Stratford, slew many, and took many of them prisoners.
- In which space the Bastard, having assayed other places on the
- water side, and little prevailed, fled toward his ships."
-
-In this determined defence of the city against a formidable attack,
-John Crosbie took a leading part, bravely contending against the forces
-of the foe and fighting fiercely. Twelve aldermen with the recorder
-were knighted in the field by King Edward IV., and amongst those so
-honoured were the Lord Mayor of London, William Taylor, and John
-Crosby. Our hero was no carpet knight, no poor-spirited tradesman and
-man of peace. Like many other famous citizens of his age, he could don
-his armour and fight for his King and country, and proved himself a
-gallant leader of a citizen army, the best sort of army in the world.
-He was a devoted adherent of the House of York, and a favourite of
-Edward IV., who sent him on an important embassage to the Duke of
-Burgundy, who had married Elizabeth of York, the King's sister. The
-secret object of the mission was an alliance against Francis I. of
-France. The embassy was also sent to the Duke of Brittany with the same
-object, and also to secure the persons of the Earls of Richmond and
-Pembroke, who had taken refuge in France, and there felt themselves
-secure. The future Richard III. was nearly persuaded to return to
-England; his foot was almost on the ship's deck, when, fortunately for
-him, his voyage was prevented. If he had continued his journey he would
-never have worn a crown, as he would have lacked a head whereon to
-place it.
-
-Sir John Crosby not long before his death began to build the beautiful
-house in Bishopsgate "in the place of certain tenements, with their
-appurtenances let to him by Alice Ashfield, Prioress of St. Helen's....
-This house he built of stone and timber, very large and beautiful,
-and the highest at that time in London," as Stow records. The whole
-structure was known as Crosby Place, and rivalled the dimensions of a
-palace. All that remained of this magnificent building was the Hall,
-together with the Council Room and an ante-room, forming two sides
-of a quadrangle. It was built of stone, and measured 54 feet by 27
-feet, and was 40 feet in height. The Hall was lighted by a series of
-eight Perpendicular windows on one side and six on the other, and by
-a beautifully-constructed octagonal bay window. It had a fine roof
-of exquisite workmanship richly ornamented, and a wide chimney. Much
-of the original stone pavement had vanished. The Council Chamber was
-nearly as large as the hall, being only 14 feet less in length.
-
-Crosby Hall has been the scene of many notable historic scenes. In the
-play of "Edward IV." by Heywood, Sir John Crosby figures as Lord Mayor
-of London, a position which he never occupied, and the King dines with
-him and the Alderman after the defeat of the rebel Falconbridge at
-Crosby Hall. He had just received the honour of knighthood, and thus
-muses:--
-
- "Ay, marry, Crosby! this befits thee well.
- But some will marvel that, with scarlet gown,
- I wear a gilded rapier by my side."
-
-It is quite possible that the King thus dined with his favourite, but
-there is no historical account that confirms the poet's play. The
-builder did not long enjoy his beautiful house, and died in 1475,
-leaving a second wife and a daughter by his first wife, whom he seemed
-to have loved with a more ardent affection than his second spouse. Soon
-after his death the man whom he tried to trap in France, Richard, Duke
-of Gloucester, came to reside here, and made it the scene of endless
-plots and conspiracies against his luckless nephews and his many
-enemies. Crosby Place is frequently alluded to by Shakespeare in his
-play, "Richard the Third." Gloucester tells Catesby to report to him at
-Crosby Place the treacherous murder of the Princes in the Tower, and he
-bids the Lady Anne to "presently repair to Crosby Place."
-
-[Illustration: ST. PAUL'S CATHEDRAL, WITH LORD MAYOR'S SHOW ON THE
-WATER.
-
-_Engraved by Pugh, 1804._]
-
-The house in 1502 passed into the possession of Sir Bartholomew Reed,
-Lord Mayor, and then to John Best, Alderman, from whom it was purchased
-by Sir Thomas More, the famous Lord Chancellor. Doubtless it was in the
-chambers of Crosby Place that he wrote his _Utopia_. He sold the lease
-to his beloved friend, Antonio Bonvisi, an Italian gentleman, who had
-long lived in England; and when the Dissolution of Monasteries took
-place, and the possessions of the Priory of St. Helen's were seized by
-the Crown, the King allowed the Italian to retain possession of Crosby
-Place. We need not record all its worthy owners. It was frequently used
-as a fitting place for the lodging of foreign ambassadors, and here
-Sir John Spencer, having restored the house, kept his mayoralty in
-1594. Enormously wealthy, he lived in great splendour and entertained
-lavishly. He was a great favourite of Queen Elizabeth. It was not
-from Crosby Hall, but from his house at Canonbury, that his only
-daughter effected her escape in a baker's basket in order to wed the
-handsome Lord Compton. Terrible was the father's wrath, and everyone
-knows the charming story of the Queen's tactful intervention, how she
-induced Sir John to stand as sponsor with her for an unknown boy, whom
-Sir John declared should be the heir of all his wealth, and how this
-boy was, of course, Lady Compton's child, and how a full reconciliation
-was effected. It is a very pretty story. It is not so pleasant to read
-of the disastrous effect of the possession of so much wealth had on
-the brain of Lord Compton, when he came into possession of his lady's
-riches. She was a little vixenish, spoilt and exacting, if she really
-intended seriously the literal meaning of that well-known letter which
-she wrote setting forth her needs and requirements. It is too long to
-quote. Lord Compton was created Earl of Northampton, and that precious
-child of his when he grew to man's estate was killed fighting for the
-Royalist cause in the Civil War.
-
-During that disastrous time Crosby became a prison for Royalists, and
-later on a great part of the house was destroyed by fire, and its
-ancient glories departed. For a hundred years the Hall was used as a
-Nonconformist chapel. In 1778 part of the premises was converted into
-a place of business by Messrs. Holmes and Hall, the rest being used
-as private dwellings. It provided a model for the banqueting-hall of
-Arundel Castle, and some of the carved stones of the Council Chamber
-were removed to Henley-upon-Thames to adorn a dairy. Alien buildings
-soon covered the site of the destroyed portion of the old house. In
-1831 it was left forlorn and untenanted, and in a state of considerable
-decay. Then arose a considerable excitement, of which the struggle
-of the present year reminds us. Crosby Hall was doomed. But zealous
-lovers of the antiquities of the city determined to try to save it.
-An appeal was made, and a restoration fund started, though, like many
-other restoration funds, it proved itself inadequate. A benevolent
-lady, Miss Hackett, gallantly came to the rescue, and practically saved
-Crosby Hall. Her idea was to convert it into a lecture hall for the
-Gresham Professors; but this plan came to nothing, though the building
-was repaired, the south wall of the Throne and Council Chambers
-being rebuilt. Then a company was formed to take over Miss Hackett's
-interest, and the Crosby Hall Literary and Scientific Institution
-was formed, but that scheme came to nothing. Then it was bought by
-Messrs. F. Gordon & Co., who restored the building, attached to it an
-annex of half-timbered construction, and converted the premises into
-a restaurant. Thus it remained for several years. Recently the site
-was acquired by a banking company, and its demolition was threatened.
-Immediate action was taken by Sir Vesey Strong, the Lord Mayor, and
-others, to save the building. The fight was fought strenuously and
-bravely. Apathy was found in some quarters where it would least have
-been expected, and all efforts were fruitless. It is deplorable to have
-to record that the last of the mansions of the old city magnates has
-been allowed to disappear, and that Crosby Hall is now only a memory.
-
-
-
-
-THE PAGEANT OF LONDON
-
-BY THE EDITOR
-
-
-We have stated in the Preface that London needs no pageant or special
-spectacular display in order to set forth its wonderful attractions.
-London is in itself a pageant, far more interesting than any theatrical
-representation; and in this final chapter we will enumerate some
-of those other features of Old London life which have not found
-description in the preceding pictures. We will "stand by and let the
-pageant pass," or, rather, pass along the streets and make our own
-pageant.
-
-The great city is always changing its appearance, and travellers
-who have not seen it for several years scarcely know where they are
-when visiting some of the transformed localities. But however great
-the change, the city still exercises its powerful fascination on
-all who have once felt its strangely magnetic force, its singular
-attractiveness. Though the London County Council have effected amazing
-"improvements," constructing a street which nobody wants and nobody
-uses, and spending millions in widening Piccadilly; though private
-enterprise pulls down ancient dwellings and rears huge hotels and
-business premises in their places--it is still possible to conjure up
-the memories of the past, and to picture to ourselves the multitudinous
-scenes of historic interest which Old London has witnessed. Learned
-writers have already in these volumes enabled us to transport ourselves
-at will to the London of bygone times--to the mediæval city, with its
-monasteries, its churches, its palaces, its tragedies; to Elizabethan
-London, bright and gay, with young life pulsing through its veins; to
-the London of Pepys, with its merry-makings, its coarseness, and its
-vice. In this concluding chapter we will recall some other memories,
-and try to fill the background to the picture.
-
-Westminster, the rival city, the city of the court, with its abbey and
-its hall, we have not attempted to include in our survey. She must be
-left in solitary state until, perhaps, a new volume of this series
-may presume to describe her graces and perfections. The ever-growing
-suburbs of the great city, the West End, the fashionable quarter,
-Southern London across the river, with Lambeth and its memories of
-archbishops--all this, and much else that deserves an honoured place in
-the chronicles of the metropolis, we must perforce omit in our survey.
-Some of the stories are too modern to please the taste of those who
-revel in the past; and if the curious reader detects omissions, he may
-console himself by referring to some of the countless other books and
-guides which the attractions of London are ever forcing industrious
-scribes to produce.
-
-
-Christ's Hospital
-
-Many regrets were expressed when it was found necessary to remove
-this ancient school from London, and to destroy the old buildings. Of
-course, "everything is for the best in this best of possible worlds."
-Boys, like plants, thrive better in the open country, and London
-fogs are apt to becloud the brain as well as injure health. But the
-antiquary may be allowed to utter his plaint over the demolition of
-the old features of London life. The memorials of this ancient school
-cannot be omitted from our collection.
-
-[Illustration: CHRIST'S HOSPITAL.]
-
-We are carried back in thought to the Friars, clad in grey habits,
-girt with cord, and sandal shod, who settled in the thirteenth century
-on the north side of what we now call Newgate Street, and, by the
-generosity of pious citizens, founded their monastery. Thus John Ewin
-gave them the land in the ward of Farringdon Without, and in the parish
-of St. Nicholas Shambles; William Joyner built the choir; William
-Wallis the nave; William Porter the chapter house; Gregory Bokesby
-the dormitories, furnishing it with beds; Bartholomew de Castello
-the refectory, where he feasted the friars on St. Bartholomew's Day.
-Queen Margaret, the second wife of Edward I., was a great benefactor
-of the order, and advanced two thousand marks towards the cost of a
-large church, which was completed in 1327, and was a noble structure,
-300 feet in length, 89 feet in breadth, and 74 feet high. "Dick"
-Whittington built for the friars a splendid library, which was finished
-in 1424. The church was the favoured resting-place of the illustrious
-dead. Four queens, four duchesses, four countesses, one duke, two
-earls, eight barons, and some thirty-five knights reposed therein. In
-the choir there were nine tombs of alabaster and marble, surrounded
-by iron railings, and monuments of marble and brass abounded. The
-dissolution of monasteries came with greedy Henry, and the place was
-rifled. The crown seized the goodly store of treasure; the church
-became a receptacle for the prizes taken from the French; and Sir
-Martin Bowes, Mayor of London, for the sum of £50, obtained all the
-beautiful tombs and brasses, marble and alabaster, which were carted
-away from the desecrated shrine.
-
-But Henry's conscience smote him. The death of Charles Brandon, Duke
-of Suffolk, the King's boon companion, moved him "to bethink himself
-of his end, and to do some good work thereunto," as Fuller states.
-The church was reopened for worship, and Bishop Ridley, preaching at
-Paul's Cross, announced the King's gift of the conventual grounds and
-buildings, with the hospital of St. Bartholomew, for the relief of the
-poor. Letters patent were issued in 1545, making over to the Mayor
-and Commonalty of London for ever "the Grey Friars' Church, with all
-the edifices and ground, the fratry, library, dortor, chapter-house,
-great cloister, and the lesser tenements and vacant grounds, lead,
-stone, iron, etc.; the hospital of St. Bartholomew, West Smithfield,
-the church of the same, the lead, bells, and ornaments of the same
-hospital, with all messuages, tenements, and appurtenances."
-
-It was a poor return to the Church for all of that the King had robbed
-her. Moreover, he did not altogether abandon a little profit. He made
-the monastic church, now called the Christ Church, do duty for the
-parishes of St. Nicholas in the Shambles, St. Ewins, and part of St.
-Sepulchre, uniting these into one parish, and pulling down the churches
-of the first two parishes. It would be curious to discover what became
-of the endowments of these parishes, and of the fabrics.
-
-[Illustration: Carrying the Crug-basket]
-
-For some years nothing was done to further the cause of this charity,
-but in 1552, when Bishop Ridley, who was a mightily convincing
-preacher, was discoursing upon charity before Edward VI., the boy-King
-was so moved that he conversed with the bishop, and, together with
-the Lord Mayor and aldermen of the city, determined to found three
-hospitals--Christ's Hospital for the education of poor children, St.
-Thomas's for the relief of the sick and diseased, and Bridewell for
-the correction and amendment of the idle and the vagabond. Before his
-last illness, Edward had just strength enough to sign the charter for
-the founding of these institutions, ejaculating: "Lord, I yield Thee
-most hearty thanks that Thou hast given me life thus long to finish
-this work to the glory of Thy name." The good citizens of London, with
-their accustomed charity, immediately set to work, before the granting
-of the charter, to subscribe money for the repair of the old monastic
-buildings, and in 1552 three hundred and forty children were admitted,
-not so much for educational purposes as for their rescue from the
-streets, and the provision of shelter, food, and clothing. It must have
-been a welcome sight to the citizens to see them clothed in livery of
-russet cotton, the boys with red caps, the girls with kerchiefs on
-their heads, lining the procession when the Lord Mayor and aldermen
-rode to St. Paul's on Christmas Day. On the following Easter the boys
-and "mayden children" were in "plonket," or blue--hence the hospital
-derived the name of the Blue Coat School. The dress of the boys,
-concerning the origin of which many fanciful interpretations have been
-made, is the costume of the period generally worn by apprentices and
-serving men, consisting of a long blue coat, with leathern girdle, a
-sleeveless yellow waistcoat and yellow stockings, clerical bands and a
-small black cap completing the dress. "Four thousand marks by the year"
-from the royal exchequer were granted by the King for the maintenance
-of the school, which sum was largely supplemented by the citizens and
-other pious benefactors, such as Lady Ramsay, who founded "a free
-writing schoole for poor men's children" at the hospital. Camden says
-that at the beginning of the seventeenth century six hundred children
-were maintained and educated, and one thousand two hundred and forty
-pensioners relieved by the hospital in alms, and, later on, as many as
-one thousand one hundred and twenty children were cared for by this
-institution. The governors, moreover, started "place houses" in other
-districts--at Hertford, Ware, Reading, and Bloxburn--where boys were
-educated.
-
-[Illustration: Wooden Platters and Beer Jack.]
-
-The buildings were greatly injured by the fire of 1666, when the
-old monastic church was entirely destroyed. The great hall was soon
-rebuilt by Sir John Frederick, and then the famous Royal Mathematical
-School was founded through the exertions of Sir Robert Clayton, Sir
-Jonas Moore, Sir Christopher Wren, Sir Charles Scarbrough, and Samuel
-Pepys. King Charles II. granted a charter and £1,000 a year for seven
-years, and the forty boys who composed the school were called "King's
-boys." They were instructed in navigation, and wore a badge on the
-left shoulder. A subordinate mathematical school, consisting of
-twelve scholars, denoted "the Twelves," who wore a badge on the right
-shoulder, was subsequently formed. Pepys took a keen interest in the
-school, and a series of a large number of his letters is in existence
-which show the efforts he made to maintain the mathematical school. He
-tells also of a little romance connected with the hospital, which is
-worth recording. There was at that time a grammar school for boys and
-a separate school for girls. Two wealthy citizens left their estates,
-one to a bluecoat boy, and the other to a bluecoat girl. Some of
-the governors thought that it would be well if these two fortunate
-recipients were married. So a public wedding was arranged at the
-Guildhall chapel, where the ceremony was performed by the Dean of St.
-Paul's, the bride, supported by two bluecoat boys, being given away by
-the Lord Mayor, and the bridegroom, attired in blue satin, being led to
-the altar by two bluecoat girls.
-
-[Illustration: Piggin: Wooden Spoon. Wooden Soup-ladle.]
-
-A noble gift of Sir Robert Clayton enabled the governors to rebuild the
-east cloister and south front. The writing school was erected by Sir
-Christopher Wren in 1694, at the expense of Sir John Moore. The ward
-over the east side cloister was rebuilt in 1705 by Sir Francis Child,
-the banker, and in 1795 the grammar school was erected. Some of the
-buildings of the old monastery survived until the beginning of the last
-century, but they were somewhat ruinous and unsafe, hence, in 1803,
-a great building fund was formed. The hall erected after the great
-fire was pulled down, and a vast building in the Tudor style begun in
-1825, which was so familiar to all who passed along the eastern end
-of Holborn. John Shaw was the architect. You will remember the open
-arcade, the buttresses and octagonal towers, and the embattled and
-pinnacled walls, and, above all, you will remember the crowd of happy
-boys, clad in their picturesque garb, kicking about the merry football.
-The dining hall was one of the finest rooms in London, being 187 feet
-long, 51 feet wide, and 47 feet high; lighted by nine large windows,
-those on the south side being filled with stained glass. There hung the
-huge charter picture, representing Edward VI. presenting the charter
-to the Lord Mayor, the Chancellor, officers of State, and children of
-the school being in attendance. This picture has been attributed to
-Holbein, but since the event occurred in 1553, and that artist could
-have produced no work later than 1534, the tradition is erroneous. Two
-portraits of Edward VI. are also in the possession of the hospital
-attributed to Holbein, but they have been proved to be the work of a
-later artist. Verrio's portrait of Charles II., and his picture of
-James II. receiving the mathematical boys, are very large canvases.
-
-It is unnecessary to describe all the buildings which so recently
-existed, but have now been swept away. It is more interesting to note
-some of the curious customs which exist or formerly existed in the
-school, and some of the noted of the old "Blues." Christ's Hospital was
-a home of old customs, some of them, perhaps, little relished by the
-scholars. Each boy had a wooden "piggin" for drinking small beer served
-out of a leathern or wooden jack; a platter, spoon, and soup-ladle of
-the same material. There was a quaint custom of supping in public on
-Sundays during Lent, when visitors were admitted, and the Lord Mayor
-or president of the governors sat in state. Quaint wooden candlesticks
-adorned the tables, and, after the supper, were carried away in
-procession, together with the tablecloths, crug-baskets, or baskets
-used for carrying bread, bowls, jacks, and piggins. Before the supper
-a hymn was sung, and a "Grecian," or head boy, read the prayers from
-the pulpit, silence being enforced by three blows of a wooden hammer.
-The supper then began, consisting of bread and cheese, and the visitors
-used to walk about between the tables. Then followed the solemn
-procession of the boys carrying their goods, and bowing repeatedly to
-the governors and their guests. It was a pleasing custom, honoured
-by the presence of many distinguished guests, and Queen Victoria and
-Prince Albert on one occasion witnessed the spectacle.
-
-[Illustration: CHRIST'S HOSPITAL: THE GARDEN.]
-
-Then there were the annual orations on St. Matthew's Day, commemorating
-the foundation of the school, and attended by the civic magnates.
-A state service was held in Christ Church, Newgate Street, and,
-afterwards, the Grecians delivered speeches, and a collection was made
-for the support of these headboys when they went to the University.
-The beadles delivered up their staves to the Court, and if no fault
-was found with these officers their badges were returned to them. The
-Company was regaled with "sweet cakes and burnt wine."
-
-At Easter there were solemn processions--first, on Easter Monday, to
-the Mansion House, when the Lord Mayor was escorted by the boys to
-Christ Church to hear the Spital or hospital sermon. On Easter Tuesday
-again the scholars repaired to the Mansion House, and were regaled
-with a glass of wine, in lieu of which lemonade, in more recent times,
-could be obtained, two buns, and a shilling fresh from the Mint,
-the senior scholars receiving an additional sum, and the Grecians
-obtained a guinea. Again the Spital sermon was preached. The boys were
-entitled, by ancient custom, to sundry privileges--to address the
-sovereign on his visiting the city, and the "King's boys" were entitled
-to be presented at the first drawing-room of the season, to present
-their charts for inspection, and to receive sundry gifts. By ancient
-privilege they were entitled to inspect all the curiosities in the
-Tower of London free of any charge, and these at one time included a
-miniature zoological garden.
-
-[Illustration: OLD STAIRCASE.]
-
-Many are the notable men renowned in literature and art who have sprung
-from this famous school. Charles Lamb, S. T. Coleridge, Leigh Hunt,
-and countless other men might be mentioned who have done honour to
-their school. Some of their recollections of old manners reveal some
-strange educational methods--the severe thrashings, the handcuffing of
-runaways, the confining in dungeons, wretched holes, where the boys
-could just find room to lie down on straw, and were kept in solitary
-confinement and fed worse than prisoners in modern gaols. Bread and
-beer breakfasts were hardly the best diet for boys, and the meat does
-not always appear to have been satisfactory. However, all these bygone
-abuses have long ago disappeared. For some years the future of the
-hospital was shrouded in uncertainty. At length it was resolved to
-quit London, and now the old buildings have been pulled down, and the
-school has taken a new lease of life and settled at Horsham, where
-all will wish that it may have a long and prosperous career. We may
-well conclude this brief notice of the old school in the words of the
-School Commissioners of 1867, who stated: "Christ's Hospital is a thing
-without parallel in the country and _sui generis_. It is a grand relic
-of the mediæval spirit--a monument of the profuse munificence of that
-spirit, and of that constant stream of individual beneficence, which
-is so often found to flow around institutions of that character. It
-has kept up its main features, its traditions, its antique ceremonies,
-almost unchanged, for a period of upwards of three centuries. It has
-a long and goodly list of worthies." We know not how many of these
-antique ceremonies have survived its removal, but we venture to hope
-that they may still exist, and that the authorities have not failed to
-maintain the traditions that Time has consecrated.
-
-
-The City Churches
-
-In the pageant of London no objects are more numerous and conspicuous
-than the churches which greet us at every step. In spite of the large
-number which have disappeared, there are very many left. There they
-stand in the centre of important thoroughfares, in obscure courts and
-alleys--here surrounded by high towering warehouses; there maintaining
-proud positions, defying the attacks of worldly business and affairs. A
-whole volume would be required to do justice to the city churches, and
-we can only glance at some of the most striking examples.
-
-The Great Fire played havoc with the ancient structures, and involved
-in its relentless course many a beautiful and historic church. But some
-few of them are left to us. We have already seen St. Bartholomew's,
-Smithfield, and glanced at the church of St. Helen, Bishopsgate, and
-old St Paul's. Wren's St. Paul's Cathedral has so often been described
-that it is not necessary to tell again the story of its building.[11]
-"Destroyed by the Great Fire, rebuilt by Wren," is the story of most of
-the city churches; but there were some few which escaped. At the east
-end of Great Tower Street stands All Hallows Barking, so called from
-having belonged to the abbey of Barking, Essex. This narrowly escaped
-the fire, which burned the dial, and porch, and vicarage house. Its
-style is mainly Perpendicular, with a Decorated east window, and has
-some good brasses. St. Andrew's Undershaft, Leadenhall Street, opposite
-to which the May-pole was annually raised until "Evil May-day" put an
-end to the merry-makings, was rebuilt in 1520-32, and contains some
-mural paintings, much stained glass, and many brasses and monuments,
-including that of John Stow, the famous London antiquary. St. Catherine
-Cree, in the same street, was rebuilt in 1629, and consecrated by
-Laud. St. Dunstan's-in-the-East was nearly destroyed, and restored
-by Wren, the present nave being rebuilt in 1817. St. Dunstan's,
-Stepney, preserves its fifteenth century fabric, and St. Ethelburga's,
-Bishopsgate, retains some of its Early English masonry, and St.
-Ethelreda's, Ely Place, is the only surviving portion of the ancient
-palace of the Bishops of Ely. St. Giles', Cripplegate, stands near the
-site of a Saxon church built in 1090 by Alfun, the first hospitaller of
-the Priory of St. Bartholomew. Suffering from a grievous fire in 1545,
-it was partially rebuilt, and in 1682 the tower was raised fifteen
-feet. Many illustrious men were buried here, including John Fox, John
-Speed, the historian, John Milton and his father, several actors of
-the Fortune Theatre, and Sir Martin Frobisher. In 1861 the church
-was restored in memory of Milton, and a monument raised to him. This
-church saw the nuptials of Oliver Cromwell and Elizabeth Bowchier in
-1620. All Hallows Staining, Mark Lane, escaped the fire, and its tower
-and west end are ancient. St. James', Aldgate, was built in 1622, and
-escaped the fire, which might have spared more important edifices;
-and St. Olave's, Hart Street, a building which shows Norman, Early
-English, Decorated, and Perpendicular work, was happily preserved. This
-is sometimes called Pepys's church, since he often mentions it in his
-diary, and lies buried here. There are other interesting monuments,
-and in the churchyard lie some of the victims of the Great Plague. St.
-Sepulchre's, near Newgate, was damaged by the fire, and refitted by
-Wren, but the main building is fifteenth century work. Several churches
-escaped the Great Fire, but were subsequently pulled down and rebuilt.
-Amongst these are St. Alphege, London Wall; St. Botolph-without,
-Aldersgate; St. Botolph's, St. Martin's Outwich. St. Mary Woolnoth was
-also damaged by the fire, and repaired by Wren. It stands on the site
-of an early church, which was rebuilt in the fifteenth century; but the
-greater part of the present church was built by Hawksmoor in 1716.
-
-A strange, weird, desolate city met the eyes of the people of London
-when the Great Fire had died away. No words can describe that scene
-of appalling ruin and desolation. But, with the energy for which
-Englishmen are remarkable, they at once set to work to restore their
-loss, and a master-mind was discovered who could grapple with the
-difficulty and bring order out of chaos. This wonderful genius was Sir
-Christopher Wren. He devised a grand scheme for the rebuilding of the
-city. Evelyn planned another. But property owners were tenacious of
-their rights, and clung to their own parcels of ground; so these great
-schemes came to nothing. However, to Wren fell the task of rebuilding
-the fallen churches, and no less than fifty-two were entrusted to his
-care. He had no one to guide him; no school of artists or craftsmen
-to help him in the detail of his buildings; no great principles of
-architecture to direct him. Gothic architecture was dead, if we except
-the afterglow that shone in Oxford. He might have followed his great
-predecessor, Inigo Jones, and produced works after an Italian model.
-But he was no copyist. Taking the classic orders as his basis, he
-devised a style of his own, suitable for the requirements of the time
-and climate, and for the form of worship and religious usages of the
-Anglican Church. "It is enough for Romanists to hear the murmur of the
-mass, and see the elevation of the Host; but our churches are to be
-fitted for auditories," he once said.
-
-Of the churches built by Wren, eighteen beautiful buildings have
-already been destroyed. St. Christopher-le-Stocks is swallowed up
-by the Bank of England; St. Michael, Crooked Lane, disappeared
-in 1841, when approaches were made to New London Bridge; St.
-Bartholomew-by-the-Exchange made way for the Sun Fire Office; and
-St. Benet Fink was pulled down because of its nearness to the Royal
-Exchange. Since the passing of the Union of City Benefices Act in 1860,
-fourteen churches designed by Wren have succumbed, and attacks on
-others have been with difficulty warded off.[12]
-
-The characteristics of Wren's genius were his versatility, imagination,
-and originality. We will notice some of the results of these qualities
-of mind. The tower hardly ever enters into the architectural treatment
-of the interior. It is used as an entrance lobby or vestry. His
-simplest plan was a plain oblong, without columns or recesses, such
-as St. Mildred's, Bread Street, or St. Nicholas', Cole Abbey. St.
-Margaret, Lothbury, St. Vedast, St. Clement, Eastcheap, have this
-simple form, with the addition of an aisle or a recess. His next plan
-consists of the central nave and two aisles, with or without clerestory
-windows; of this St. Andrew Wardrobe and St. Magnus the Martyr furnish
-good examples. The third plan is the domed church, such as St. Swithun
-and St. Mary Abchurch. The merits and architectural beauties of Wren's
-churches have been recently described in an able lecture delivered by
-Mr. Arthur Keen before the Architectural Association, a lecture which
-we should like to see expanded to the size of a book, and enriched with
-copious drawings. It would be of immense service in directing the minds
-of the citizens of London to the architectural treasures of which they
-are the heirs.
-
-The churches are remarkable for their beautifully carved woodwork,
-often executed or designed by Grinling Gibbons or his pupils. Pews,
-pulpits, with elaborate sounding boards, organ cases, altar pieces,
-were all elaborately carved, and a gallery usually was placed at the
-west end. Paintings by Sir James Thornhill and other artists adorn
-his churches, and the art of Strong the master mason, Jennings the
-carpenter, and Tijou the metal worker, all combined to beautify his
-structures.
-
-Within the limits of our space it is only possible to glance at the
-interiors of a few of these churches, and note some of the treasures
-therein contained. St. Andrew's, Holborn, has its original fifteenth
-century tower, recarved in 1704. It is known as the "Poet's Church,"
-on account of the singers connected with it, including a contemporary
-of Shakespeare, John Webster, Robert Savage, Chatterton, and Henry
-Neele, and can boast of such illustrious rectors as Bishops Hacket
-and Stillingfleet, and Dr. Sacheverel. The spire of Christ Church,
-Spitalfields, built by Hawksmoor, is the loftiest in London, and
-has a fine peal of bells. In the church there is an early work of
-Flaxman--the monument of Sir Robert Ladbrooke, Lord Mayor. The name
-of St. Clement Danes reminds us of the connection of the sea-rovers
-with London. Strype says that the church was so named "because Harold,
-a Danish King, and other Danes, were buried there, and in that
-churchyard." He tells how this Harold, an illegitimate son of Canute,
-reigned three years, and was buried at Westminster; but, afterwards,
-Hardicanute, the lawful son of Canute, in revenge for the injury done
-to his mother and brother, ordered the body to be dug up and thrown
-into the Thames, where it was found by a fisherman and buried in this
-churchyard. There seems to be no doubt that there was a colony of
-peaceful Danes in this neighbourhood, as testified by the Danish word
-"Wych" given to a street hard by, and preserved in the modern Aldwych.
-It was the oldest suburb of London, the village of Ældwic, and called
-Aldewych. Oldwych close was in existence in the time of the Stuarts.
-These people were allowed to reside between the Isle of Thorney, or
-Westminster, and Ludgate, and, having become Christians, they built a
-church for themselves, which was called _Ecclesia Clementis Danorum_.
-
-There is a wild story of the massacre of the Danes in this church in
-the days of Ethelred, as recorded in Strype's _Continuation of Stow_,
-and in the _Jomsvikinga Saga_. As Mr. Loftie has not found space in
-_Saxon London_ to mention this colony of Danes and their doings, I
-venture to quote a passage from Mr. Lethaby's _Pre-Conquest London_,
-which contains some interesting allusions to these people:
-
- "We are told that Sweyn made warfare in the land of
- King Ethelred, and drove him out of the land; he put
- _Thingumannalid_ in two places. The one in Lundunaborg
- (London) was ruled by Eilif Thorgilsson, who had sixty ships
- in the Temps (Thames); the other was north in Sleswik. The
- Thingamen made a law that no one should stay away a whole
- night. They gathered at the Bura Church every night when a
- large bell was rung, but without weapons. He who had command
- in the town (London) was Ædric Streona. Ulfkel Snilling ruled
- over the northern part of England (East Anglia). The power of
- the Thingamen was great. There was a fair there (in London)
- twice every twelve month, one about midsummer and the other
- about midwinter. The English thought it would be the easiest
- to slay the Thingamen while Cnut was young (he was ten winters
- old) and Sweyn dead. About Yule, waggons went into the town to
- the market, and they were all tented over by the treacherous
- advice of Ulfkel Snelling and Ethelred's sons. Thord, a man
- of the Thingumannalid, went out of the town to the house of
- his mistress, who asked him to stay, because the death was
- planned of all the Thingamen by Englishmen concealed in the
- waggons, when the Danes would go unarmed to the church. Thord
- went into the town and told it to Eilif. They heard the bell
- ringing, and when they came to the churchyard there was a
- great crowd who attacked them. Eilif escaped with three ships
- and went to Denmark. Some time after, Edmund was made King.
- After three winters, Cnut, Thorkel and Eric went with eight
- hundred ships to England. Thorkel had thirty ships, and slew
- Ulfkel Snilling, and married Ulfhild, his wife, daughter of
- King Ethelred. With Ulfkel was slain every man on sixty ships,
- and Cnut took Lundunaborg."
-
-Matthew, of Westminster, also records this massacre of the Danes, and
-other authorities consider that the account in the _Saga_ is founded
-on fact. However that may be, the Danes undoubtedly had a colony here
-of their traders, merchants, and seamen, and dedicated their church
-to their favourite saint, St. Clement, the patron of mariners, whose
-constant emblem is an anchor. Nor was this the only location of the
-Northmen. Southwark was their fortified trading place, where they
-had a church dedicated to St. Olaf, the patron saint of Norway. His
-name remains in Tooley Street, not a very evident but certainly true
-derivative of St. Olaf's Street. There are three churches dedicated to
-St. Olave, who was none other than St. Olaf. St. Magnus, too, tells
-of the Northmen, who was one of their favourite saints. Going back to
-the church of St. Clement Danes, we notice that it was rebuilt in 1682
-under the advice of Wren, the tower and steeple being added forty years
-later. Dr. Johnson used to attend here, and a pillar near his seat
-bears the inscription:
-
- "In this pew and beside this pillar, for many years attended
- Divine Service, the celebrated Dr. Johnson, the philosopher,
- the poet, the great lexicographer, the profound moralist, and
- chief writer of his time. Born 1709, died 1794. In remembrance
- and honour of noble faculties, nobly employed, some
- inhabitants of the parish of St. Clement Danes have placed
- this slight memorial, A.D. 1851."
-
-One of the most important city churches is St. Mary-le-Bow, Cheapside.
-It is one of Wren's finest works; but the old church, destroyed by the
-Great Fire, had a notable history, being one of the earliest Norman
-buildings in the country. Stow says it was named St. Mary _de Arcubus_
-from its being built on arches of stone, these arches forming a crypt,
-which still exists. The tower was a place of sanctuary, but not a very
-effectual one, as Longbeard, a ringleader of a riot, was forced out of
-his refuge by fire in 1190, and Ducket, a goldsmith, was murdered. The
-Bow bells are famous, and one of them was rung nightly for the closing
-of shops. Everyone knows the protesting rhyme of the 'prentices of the
-Cheap when the clerk rang the bell late, and the reassuring reply of
-that officer, who probably feared the blows of their staves. Lanterns
-hung in the arches of the spire as beacons for travellers. The bells
-of Bow are said to have recalled Dick Whittington, and those who have
-always lived in the district where their sound can be heard are deemed
-very ignorant folk by their country cousins. Whittington's church was
-St. Michael's Paternoster Royal, Thames Street, which he rebuilt, and
-wherein he was buried, though his body has been twice disturbed. The
-church was destroyed by the Great Fire, and rebuilt by Wren.
-
-It is impossible for us to visit all the churches, each of which
-possesses some feature of interest, some historical association. They
-impart much beauty to every view of the city, and not one of them can
-be spared. Sometimes, in this utilitarian age, wise men tell us that
-we should pull down many of these ancient buildings, sell the valuable
-sites, and build other churches in the suburbs, where they would be
-more useful. Eighteen of Wren's churches have been thus destroyed,
-besides several of later date. The city merchants of old built their
-churches, and made great sacrifices in doing so, for the honour of God
-and the good of their fellow-men, and it is not for their descendants
-to pull them down. If suburban people want churches, they should
-imitate the example of their forefathers, and make sacrifices in order
-to build them. Streets, old palaces, interesting houses, are fast
-vanishing; the churches--at least, some of them--remain to tell the
-story of the ancient civic life, to point the way to higher things amid
-the bustling scenes of mercantile activity and commercial unrest. The
-readers of these Memorials will wish "strength i' th' arme" to the City
-Churches Preservation Society to do battle for these historic landmarks
-of ancient London.
-
-
-The Pageant of the Streets
-
-Nothing helps us to realise the condition of ancient London, its growth
-and expansion, like a careful study of its street-names. It shows
-that in the Middle Ages London was very different from that great,
-overcrowded, noisy, and far-extending metropolis which we see to-day.
-It is difficult for us in these days to realise the small extent of
-ancient London, when Charing was a village situated between the cities
-of Westminster and London; or, indeed, to go back in imagination even
-a century or two ago, when the citizens could go a-nutting on Notting
-Hill, and when it was possible to see Temple Bar from Leicester Square,
-then called Leicester Fields, and with a telescope observe the heads of
-the Scotch rebels which adorned the spikes of the old gateway. In the
-early coaching days, on account of the impassable roads, it required
-three hours to journey from Paddington to the city. Kensington,
-Islington, Brompton, and Paddington were simply country villages,
-separated by fields and pastures from London; and the names of such
-districts as Spitalfields, Bethnal Green, Smithfield, Moorfields, and
-many others, now crowded with houses, indicate the once rural character
-of the neighbourhood.
-
-The area enclosed by the city walls was not larger than Hyde Park.
-Their course has been already traced, but we can follow them on the
-map of London by means of the names of the streets. Thus, beginning
-at the Tower, we pass on to Aldgate, and then to Bishopsgate. Outside
-was a protecting moat, which survives in the name Houndsditch, wherein
-doubtless dead dogs found a resting place. Then we pass on to London
-Wall, a street which sufficiently tells its derivation. Outside this
-part of the wall there was a fen, or bog, or moor, which survives in
-Moorfields, Moorgate Street, and possibly Finsbury; and Artillery
-Street shows where the makers of bows and arrows had their shops,
-near the artillery ground, where the users of these weapons practised
-at the butts. The name of the Barbican tells of a tower that guarded
-Aldersgate, and some remains of the wall can still be seen in Castle
-Street and in the churchyard of St. Giles', Cripplegate, the derivation
-of which has at length been satisfactorily determined by Mr. Loftie in
-our first chapter, and has nothing to do with the multitude of cripples
-which Stow imagined congregated there. Thence we go to Newgate and the
-Old Bailey, names that tell of walls and fortifications. Everyone knows
-the name of the Bailey court of a castle, which intervened between the
-keep or stronger portion of the defences and the outer walls or gate.
-The court of the Old Bailey suggests to modern prisoners other less
-pleasing ideas. Now the wall turns southward, in the direction of
-Ludgate, where it was protected by a stream called the Fleet, whence
-the name Fleet Street is derived. Canon Isaac Taylor suggests that
-Fleet Street is really Flood Street, from which Ludgate or Floodgate
-takes its name. We prefer the derivation given by Mr. Loftie. On the
-south of Ludgate, and on the bank of the Thames, stood a mighty strong
-castle, called Baynard Castle, constructed by William the Conqueror to
-aid him, with the Tower of London, to keep the citizens in order. It
-has entirely disappeared, but if you look closely at the map you will
-find a wharf which records its memory, and a ward of the city also is
-named after the long vanished stronghold. Now the course of the wall
-follows the north bank of the river Thames, and the names Dowgate and
-Billingsgate record its memory and of the city gates, which allowed
-peaceable citizens to enter, but were strong to resist foes and rebels.
-
-Within these walls craftsmen and traders had their own particular
-localities, the members of each trade working together side by side in
-their own street or district; and although now some of the trades have
-disappeared, and traders are no longer confined to one district, the
-street-names record the ancient home of their industries. The two great
-markets were the Eastcheap and Westcheap, now Cheapside. The former, in
-the days of Lydgate, was the abode of the butchers. Martin Lyckpenny
-sings:
-
- "Then I hyed me into Est-chepe
- One cryes ribbes of befe and many a pye."
-
-And near the butchers naturally were the cooks, who flourished in
-Cooks' Row, along Thames Street. Candlewick Street took its name from
-the chandlers. Cornhill marks the site of the ancient corn market.
-Haymarket, where the theatre is so well known, was the site of a
-market for hay, but that is comparatively modern. The citizens did
-not go so far out of the city to buy and sell hay. Stow says: "Then
-higher in Grasse Street is that parish church of St. Bennet, called
-Grasse Church, of the herb market there kept"; and though he thinks
-Fenchurch Street may be derived from a fenny or moorish ground,
-"others be of opinion that it took that name of _Fænum_, that is, hay
-sold there, as Grasse Street took the name of grass, or herbs, there
-sold." Wool was sold near the church of St. Mary Woolchurch, which
-stood on the site of the present Mansion House, and in the churchyard
-was a beam for the weighing of wool. The name survives in that of St.
-Mary Woolnoth, with which parish the other was united when St. Mary
-Woolchurch was destroyed by the Great Fire. Lombard Street marks the
-settlement of the great Lombardi merchants, the Italian financiers,
-bankers, and pawnbrokers, who found a convenient centre for their
-transactions midway between the two great markets, Eastcheap and
-Cheapside. Sometimes the name of the street has been altered in course
-of time, so that it is difficult to determine the original meaning.
-Thus Sermon Lane has nothing to do with parsons, but is a corruption
-of Sheremoniers' Lane, who "cut and rounded the plates to be coined
-and stamped into sterling pence," as Stow says. Near this lane was the
-Old Exchange, where money was coined. Later on, this coining was done
-at a place still called the mint, in Bermondsey. Stow thought that
-Lothbury was so called because it was a loathsome place, on account
-of the noise made by the founders; but it is really a corruption
-of Lattenbury, the place where these founders "cast candlesticks,
-chafing-dishes, spice mortars, and such like copper or laton works."
-Of course, people sold their fowls in the Poultry; fish and milk and
-bread shops were to be found in the streets bearing these names; and
-leather in Leather Lane and, perhaps, Leadenhall Market, said to be
-a corruption of Leatherhall, though Stow does not give any hint of
-this. Sopers' Lane was the abode of the soapmakers; Smithfield of the
-smiths. Coleman Street derives its name from the man who first built
-and owned it, says Stow; but later authorities place there the coalmen
-or charcoal-burners. As was usual in mediæval towns, the Jews had a
-district for themselves, and resided in Old Jewry and Jewin Street.
-
-The favourite haunt of booksellers and publishers, Paternoster
-Row, derives its name, according to Stow, "from the stationers or
-text-writers that dwelled there, who wrote and sold all sorts of books
-then in use, namely, A. B. C. or Absies, with the Paternoster, Ave,
-Creed, Graces, etc. There dwelled also turners of beads, and they are
-called Paternoster-makers. At the end of Paternoster Row is Ave Mary
-Lane, so called upon the like occasion of text-writers and bead-makers
-then dwelling there." Creed Lane and Amen Corner make up the names of
-these streets where the worshippers in Old St. Paul's found their helps
-to devotion.
-
-Old London was a city of palaces as well as of trade. All the great
-nobles of England had their town houses, or inns, as they were called.
-They had vast retinues of armed men, and required no small lodging.
-The Dukes of Exeter and Somerset, the Earl of Northumberland, and many
-others, had their town houses, every vestige of which has passed away,
-though their names are preserved by the streets and sites on which they
-stood. The Strand, for example, is full of the memories of these old
-mansions, which began to be erected along the river bank when the Wars
-of the Roses had ceased, and greater security was felt by the people
-of England, who then began to perceive that it might be possible to
-live in safety outside the walls of the city. Northumberland Avenue
-tells of the house of the Earls of Northumberland, which stood so
-late as 1875; Burleigh Street and Essex Street recall the famous Sir
-William Cecil, Lord Burleigh, whose son was created Earl of Essex.
-Arundel House, the mansion of the Howards, is marked by Arundel Street,
-Surrey Street, Howard Street, Norfolk Street, these being the titles
-borne by scions of this famous family. The readers of the chapter on
-the Royal Palaces need not be told of the traditions preserved by the
-names Somerset House and the Savoy. Cecil Street and Salisbury Street
-recall the memory of Salisbury House, built by Sir Robert Cecil, Earl
-of Salisbury, brother of the Earl of Essex mentioned above. Then we
-have Bedford Street, with Russell Street, Southampton Street, Tavistock
-Street, around Covent Garden. These names unfold historical truths.
-Covent Garden is an abbreviated form of Convent Garden, the garden
-of the monks of Westminster. It was granted to the Russell family at
-the dissolution of monasteries, and the Russells, Earls of Bedford,
-erected a mansion here, which has long disappeared, but has left traces
-behind in the streets named after the various titles to which members
-of the Russell family attained. In another part of London we find
-traces of the same family. After leaving Covent Garden they migrated
-to Bloomsbury, and there we find Bedford Square, Southampton Street,
-Russell Square, Tavistock Square, and Chenies Street, this latter being
-named after their seat in Buckinghamshire. Craven buildings, near
-Drury Lane, tells of the home of Lord Craven, the devoted admirer of
-the "Queen of Hearts," the beautiful Queen of Bohemia. Clare House,
-the mansion of the Earls of Clare, survives in Clare Market; and
-Leicester Square points to the residence of the favourite of Queen
-Elizabeth, and Villiers Street and Buckingham Street to that of another
-court favourite, the Duke of Buckingham. The bishops also had their
-town houses, and their sites are recorded by such names as Ely Place,
-Salisbury Square, Bangor Court, and Durham Street.
-
-We might wander westward, and trace the progress of building and of
-fashion, and mark the streets that bear witness to the memories of
-great names in English history; but that would take us far beyond our
-limits. Going back citywards, we should find many other suggestive
-names of streets--those named after churches; those that record the
-memories of religious houses, such as Blackfriars, Austin Friars,
-Crutched Friars; those that mark the course of many streams and brooks
-that now find their way underground to the great river. All these names
-recall glimpses of Old London, and must be cherished as priceless
-memorials of ancient days.
-
-
-The Heart of the City
-
-In the centre of London, at the eastern end of Cheapside, stand the
-Royal Exchange, the Mansion House, and Bank of England, all of which
-merit attention. The official residence of the Lord Mayor--associated
-with the magnificent hospitality of the city, with the memory of many
-distinguished men who have held the office of Chief Magistrate, and
-with the innumerable charitable schemes which have been initiated
-there--was built by Dance, and completed in 1753. It is in the Italian
-style, and resembles a Palladian Palace. Its conspicuous front, with
-Corinthian columns supporting a pediment, in the centre of which is a
-group of allegorical sculpture, is well known to all frequenters of
-the city. Formerly it had an open court, but this has been roofed over
-and converted into a grand banquetting hall, known as the Egyptian
-Hall. There are other dining rooms, a ball room, and drawing room, all
-superbly decorated, and the Mansion House is a worthy home for the Lord
-Mayor of London.
-
-The Bank of England commenced its career in 1691; founded by William
-Paterson, a Scotsman, and incorporated by William III. The greatest
-monetary establishment in the world at first managed to contain its
-wealth in a single chest, not much larger than a seaman's box. Its
-first governor was Sir John Houblon, who appears largely in the recent
-interesting volume on the records of the Houblon family, and whose
-house and garden were on part of the site of the present bank. The
-halls of the mercers and grocers provided a home for the officials in
-their early dealings. The site of the bank was occupied by a church,
-St. Christopher-le-Stocks, three taverns, and several houses. These
-have all been removed to make room for the extensions which from time
-to time were found necessary. The back of the Threadneedle Street front
-is the earliest portion--built in 1734, to which Sir Robert Taylor
-added two wings; and then Sir John Soane was appointed architect, and
-constructed the remainder of the present buildings in the Corinthian
-style, after the model of the Temple of the Sibyl at Tivoli. There
-have been several subsequent additions, including the heightening of
-the Cornhill front by an attic in 1850. There have been many exciting
-scenes without those sombre-looking walls. It has been attacked by
-rioters. Panics have created "runs" on the bank; in 1745 the managers
-just saved themselves by telling their agents to demand payment for
-large sums in sixpences, which took a long time to count, the agents
-then paying in the sixpences, which had to be again counted, and thus
-preventing _bonâ-fide_ holders of notes presenting them. At one time
-the corporation had a very insignificant amount of money in the bank,
-and just saved themselves by issuing one pound notes. The history of
-forgeries on the bank would make an interesting chapter, and the story
-of its defence in the riots of 1780, when old inkstands were used as
-bullets by the gallant defenders, fills a page of old-world romance.
-
-[Illustration: THE ROYAL EXCHANGE.
-
-_Engraved by Hollar, 1644._]
-
-But interesting as these buildings are, their stories pale before
-that of the Royal Exchange. The present building was finished in
-1844, and opened by her late Majesty Queen Victoria with a splendid
-state and civic function. Its architecture is something after the
-style of the Pantheon at Rome. Why the architects of that and earlier
-periods always chose Italian models for their structures is one of the
-mysteries of human error; but, as we have seen, all these three main
-buildings in the heart of the city are copied from Italian structures.
-William Tite was the architect, and he achieved no mean success. The
-great size of the portico, the vastness of the columns, the frieze and
-sculptured tympanum, and striking figures, all combine to make it an
-imposing building. Upon the pedestal of the figure of "Commerce" is the
-inscription: "The earth is the Lord's, and the fulness thereof." The
-interior has been enriched by a series of mural paintings, representing
-scenes from the municipal life of London, the work of eminent artists.
-
-This exchange is the third which has stood upon this site. The first
-was built by Sir Thomas Gresham, one of the famous family of merchants
-to whom London owes many benefits. It was a "goodly Burse," of Flemish
-design, having been built by a Flemish architect and Flemish workmen,
-and closely resembled the great Burse of Antwerp. The illustration,
-taken from an old engraving by Hollar, 1644, shows the building with
-its large court, with an arcade, a corridor or "pawn" of stalls above,
-and, in the high-pitched roof, chambers with dormer windows. Above
-the roofs a high bell-tower is seen, from which, at twelve o'clock at
-noon and at six in the evening, a bell sounded forth that proclaimed
-the call to 'Change. The merchants are shown walking or sitting on the
-benches transacting their business. Each nationality or trade had its
-own "walk." Thus there were the "Scotch walk," "Hanbro'," "Irish,"
-"East country," "Swedish," "Norway," "American," "Jamaica," "Spanish,"
-"Portugal," "French," "Greek," and "Dutch and Jewellers'" walks. When
-Queen Elizabeth came to open the Exchange, the tradesmen began to use
-the hundred shops in the corridor, and "milliners or haberdashers sold
-mouse-traps, bird-cages, shoeing-horns, Jews' trumps, etc.; armourers,
-that sold both old and new armour; apothecaries, booksellers,
-goldsmiths, and glass-sellers." The Queen declared that this beautiful
-building should be no longer called the Burse, but gave it the name
-"The Royal Exchange." In the illustration some naughty boys have
-trespassed upon the seclusion of the busy merchants, and the beadle is
-endeavouring to drive them out of the quadrangle.
-
-This fine building was destroyed by the Great Fire, when all the
-statues fell down save that of the founder, Sir Thomas Gresham. His
-trustees, now known as the Gresham Committee, set to work to rebuild
-it, and employed Edward German as their architect, though Wren gave
-advice concerning the project. As usual, the citizens were not very
-long in accomplishing their task, and three years after the fire the
-second Exchange was opened, and resembled in plan its predecessor. Many
-views of it appear in the Crace collection in the British Museum. In
-1838 it was entirely destroyed by fire. In the clock-tower there was
-a set of chimes, and the last tune they played, appropriately, was,
-"There's nae luck about the house." As we have seen, in a few years the
-present Royal Exchange arose, which we trust will be more fortunate
-than its predecessors, and never fall a victim to the flames.
-
- * * * * *
-
-There is much else that we should like to see in Old London, and record
-in these Memorials. We should like to visit the old fairs, especially
-Bartholomew Fair, Smithfield, either in the days of the monks or with
-my Lady Castlemaine, who came in her coach, and mightily enjoyed a
-puppet show; and the wild beasts, dwarfs, operas, tight-rope dancing,
-sarabands, dogs dancing the Morrice, hare beating a tabor, a tiger
-pulling the feathers from live fowls, the humours of Punchinello, and
-drolls of every degree. Pages might be written of the celebrities of
-the fair, of the puppet shows, where you could see such incomparable
-dramas as _Whittington and his Cat_, _Dr. Faustus_, _Friar Bacon_,
-_Robin Hood and Little John_, _Mother Shipton_, together with "the
-tuneful warbling pig of Italian race." But our pageant is passing,
-and little space remains. We should like to visit the old prisons. A
-friend of the writer, Mr. Milliken, has allowed himself to be locked
-in all the ancient gaols which have remained to our time, and taken
-sketches of all the cells wherein famous prisoners have been confined;
-of gates, and bars, and bolts and doors, which have once restrained
-nefarious gaol-birds. Terrible places they were, these prisons, wherein
-prisoners were fleeced and robbed by governors and turnkeys, and, if
-they had no money, were kicked and buffeted in the most merciless
-manner. Old Newgate, which has just disappeared, has perhaps the most
-interesting history. It began its career as a prison in the form of a
-tower or part of the city gate. Thus it continued until the Great Fire,
-after which it was restored by Wren. In our illustration of the old
-gatehouse, it will be seen that it had a windmill at the top. This was
-an early attempt at ventilation, in order to overcome the dread malady
-called "gaol distemper," which destroyed many prisoners. Many notable
-names appear on the list of those who suffered here, including several
-literary victims, whose writings caused them grievous sufferings.
-The prison so lately destroyed was designed by George Dance in 1770.
-A recent work on architecture describes it as almost perfect of its
-kind. Before it was completed it was attacked by the Gordon rioters,
-who released the prisoners and set it on fire. It was repaired and
-finished in 1782. Outwardly so imposing, inwardly it was, for a long
-period, one of the worst prisons in London, full of vice and villainy,
-unchecked, unreformed; while outside frequently gathered tumultuous
-crowds to see the condemned prisoners hanged. We might have visited
-also the debtors' prisons with Mr. Pickwick and other notables, if
-our minds were not surfeited with prison fare; and even followed the
-hangman's cart to Tyburn, to see the last of some notorious criminals.
-Where the Ludgate Railway Station now stands was the famous Fleet
-prison, which had peculiar privileges, the Liberty of the Fleet
-allowing prisoners to go on bail and lodge in the neighbourhood of
-the prison. The district extended from the entrance to St. Paul's
-churchyard, Old Bailey, Ludgate Hill, to the Thames. Everyone has heard
-of the Fleet marriages that took place in this curious neighbourhood.
-On the other side of New Bridge Street there was a wild district called
-Alsatia, extending from Fleet Street to the Thames, wherein, until
-1697, cheats and scoundrels found a safe sanctuary, and could not be
-disturbed.
-
-Again, we should like to visit the old public gardens, Vauxhall and
-Ranelagh, in company with Horace Walpole, or with Miss Burney's
-_Evelina_ or Fielding's _Amelia_, and note "the extreme beauty and
-elegance of the place, with its 1,000 lamps"; "and happy is it for me,"
-the young lady remarks, "since to give an adequate idea of it would
-exceed my power of description."
-
-But the pageant must at length pass on, and we must wake from the
-dreams of the past to find ourselves in our ever growing, ever
-changing, modern London. It is sufficient for us to reflect sometimes
-on the past life of the great city, to see again the scenes which took
-place in the streets and lanes we know so well, to form some ideas of
-the characters and manners of our forefathers, and to gather together
-some memorials of the greatest and most important city in the world.
-
-FOOTNOTES:
-
-[11] _Cf._ _Cathedral Churches of Great Britain._ (Dent & Co.)
-
-[12] _Cf._ Mr. Philip Norman's notes on a recent lecture by Mr. Arthur
-Keen. _Architect_, December 27th, 1907.
-
-
-
-
-INDEX
-
-
-Abbey, Bermondsey, ii., 46
-
-Abbot of Westminster and monks in Tower prison, i., 59
-
----- of Malmesbury, i., 159
-
-Actor, Thomas Davies the, ii., 178
-
-Addison at Wills' Coffee-house, ii., 178
-
-Albemarle Club, ii., 110
-
----- Monk, Duke of, ii., 75
-
-Albus, Liber, i., 122
-
-Aldermanbury, St. Mary, ii., 31
-
-Aldersgate, i., 21
-
-Aldgate, i., 24; ii., 39
-
-Aldwych, ii., 208
-
-Alfred Club, ii., 107
-
----- the Great, i., 13, 19, 111
-
-All Hallows Barking ii., 204
-
----- Staining, Mark Lane, ii., 205
-
----- the More, Church of, i., 230
-
-Alpine Club, ii., 110
-
-Alsatia, ii., 36
-
-Anecdote of Charles II. and the Chaplains' dinner, ii., 62
-
-"Angel Inn," Wych Street, ii., 131
-
-Anglo-Saxon houses, i., 114
-
-Anlaf the Dane, i., 10
-
-Anthropological Institute, ii., 163
-
----- Society, ii., 162
-
-Antiquaries, Society of, ii., 150, 153
-
-Apothecaries' Company, i., 200
-
-Apprentices of London, i., 123
-
----- dress of, i., 124
-
----- flogging of, i., 124
-
-Archæological Association, British, ii., 163
-
----- Institute, ii., 164
-
-Archbishop of Canterbury, William de Corbeil, i., 68
-
-Archdeacon Hale, reforms of, i., 103
-
-Archery, ii., 43
-
-Architect, George Dance, i., 182
-
----- of Palace of Westminster, ii., 2
-
----- of Tower, Gundulf, i., 32, 33
-
-Architecture, Crusaders' influence on, i., 134
-
-_Armory, London's_, i., 240
-
-Armourers' and Braziers' Company, i., 200, 201
-
-Arms of the City and See of London, i., 233
-
-Army and Navy Club, ii., 102
-
-Arsenal, Tower an, i., 56, 60
-
-Arthur's Club, ii., 101
-
-Artillery Street, ii., 212
-
-Artists, Blackfriars as abode of, ii., 49
-
-Artizans' Houses, i., 125
-
-Arts, Society of, ii., 154
-
-Arundel House, ii., 216
-
-Asiatic Society, Royal, ii., 158
-
-Associates of the Temple, i., 136
-
-Association, British Archæological, ii., 163
-
----- for the Advancement of Science, British, ii., 158
-
-Associations of Covent Garden, Literary, ii., 178
-
----- of Pall Mall, Literary, ii., 179
-
----- of St. James' Street, Literary, ii., 180
-
----- of the Temple, Literary, i., 146
-
-Athenæum Club, ii., 105
-
-Augustine Friars, ii., 36
-
-August Society of the Wanderers Club, ii., 101
-
-Aulus Plautius, i., 6
-
-Austin Friars, ii., 27, 217
-
-Authors' Club, ii., 110
-
-Authors of the Temple, ii., 174
-
-Ave Mary Lane, ii., 215
-
-Avenue, Northumberland, ii., 215
-
-"Axe" Inn, Aldermanbury, ii., 131
-
-Axe Yard, Westminster, ii., 54
-
-
-Bacon, Sir Francis, i., 101
-
-Bacon's Inn, i., 174
-
-Bailey, Old, i., 25; ii., 212
-
-Bakers' Company, i., 201
-
-Bank of England, ii., 217
-
-Bankside, ii., 45
-
-"Banqueting Hall," Tower, i., 35
-
-Banqueting House, Whitehall, ii., 14
-
-Banquets, City, i., 188
-
-Barbers', or Barber Surgeons' Company i., 201
-
-Barbican, ii., 212
-
----- destroyed, i., 53
-
-Barges of City Companies, i., 195
-
-Barnard's Inn, i., 168
-
-Barry, Sir Charles, ii., 2
-
-Bars, London, ii., 52
-
-Bartholomew Fair, ii., 220
-
----- the Great, St., Smithfield, i., 66
-
-Basilica, Roman, i., 7
-
-Bath Club, ii., 110
-
----- Roman, i., 7
-
-"Batson's" Coffee-house, ii., 137
-
-Battle at Crayford, i., 14
-
-Baynard Castle, i., 30, 122; ii., 213
-
-Bear-baiting, ii., 44, 47
-
-Bear Garden, ii., 47
-
-Beauchamp, Monument of Sir John, i., 118
-
-Beauvale, Nottinghamshire, i., 87
-
-"Bedford" Coffee-house, ii., 137, 138
-
-Bedford, Earls of, ii., 216
-
-"Bell and Crown" Inn, Holborn, ii., 125
-
-"Bell" Inn, Warwick Lane, ii., 131
-
-Bell Inn, ii., 114
-
-Bells of Bow, The, ii., 210
-
-Belmie, Richard de, Bishop of London, i., 68
-
-Berkeley House, ii., 53
-
-Bermondsey Abbey, ii., 46
-
-Berwick Bridge and Bribery, i., 101
-
-Bethnal Green, ii., 53
-
-Billingsgate, i., 8, 126; ii., 21
-
-Bishop of London, Mellitus, first, i., 16
-
----- Richard de Belmies, i., 68
-
-Bishopsgate, i., 18, 228; ii., 183
-
-Bishops of London, seals of, i., 236
-
-Bishops' houses, ii., 216
-
-Bishopric of London, i., 89
-
-Black death, i., 88
-
-Blackfriars, ii., 47, 217
-
----- abode of artists, ii., 49
-
----- Bridge, ii., 95
-
----- Glovers in, ii., 49
-
----- playhouse near, ii., 48
-
----- Shakespeare's house in, ii., 50
-
----- Vandyke's studio in, ii., 49
-
-Blacksmiths' Company, i., 201
-
-Blackwell Hall, i., 183
-
-Blake, William, poet, painter, ii., 176
-
-Bloody Gate Tower, i., 47, 61
-
-"Blossoms" Inn, ii., 131
-
-"Blue Boar" Inn, ii., 118
-
-"Boar's Head" Inn, ii., 168
-
-"Bolt-in-Tun" Inn, Fleet Street, ii., 127
-
-Bolton, William, prior of St. Bartholomew, i., 76
-
-Bonfires, ii., 41
-
-Boodle's Club, ii., 101
-
-Borough, The, ii., 166
-
-Boswell, ii., 176
-
-Bow Bells, ii., 210
-
-Bowyers' Company, i., 201
-
-Braziers' Company, Armourers' and, i., 200, 201
-
-Bread Street, ii., 30
-
----- John Milton born in, ii., 170
-
-Brewers' Company, i., 201
-
-Bribery and Berwick Bridge, i., 101
-
----- Extraordinary, i., 101
-
-Brick building by the Hansa, i., 229
-
-Bridewell, ii., 6
-
----- Hospital, ii., 49, 196
-
----- Palace of, ii., 48
-
-Bridge, Blackfriars, ii., 95
-
----- Chapel, ii., 88, 90
-
----- Gate, ii., 88, 90
-
----- Old London, i., 6, 10, 125
-
----- of London, ii., 21, 24, 28
-
----- St. Thomas of the, ii., 24
-
----- Southwark, ii., 82, 97
-
----- Waterloo, ii., 97
-
----- Westminster, ii., 94
-
-"Bridge House Estates," ii., 87
-
-British Archæological Association, ii., 163
-
----- Association for the Advancement of Science, ii., 158
-
-Broad Street, ii., 36
-
-Broderers' Company, i., 201
-
-Brontë, Charlotte and Anne, ii., 171
-
-Brook, Turnmill, i., 149
-
-Brooks's Club, ii., 101, 103
-
-_Brooks's, Memorials of_, ii., 103
-
-Brown, Dr. Haig, i., 104
-
-Buckingham Palace, ii., 15
-
-Bucklersbury, ii., 30
-
-Builder of Tower of London, Gundulf, i., 32, 33
-
----- Westminster Bridge, Labelye, ii., 94
-
-Building, Goldsmith, i., 146
-
----- Lamb, i., 147
-
----- operations at the Tower, Henry III., i., 50
-
----- Wren's, i., 144
-
-Buildings, Craven, ii., 216
-
----- Harcourt, i., 146
-
----- Johnson's, i., 146
-
----- Mitre Court, i., 147
-
-"Bull and Mouth" Inn, St. Martin's-le-Grand, ii., 129
-
-Bull-Baiting, ii., 46
-
-"Bull" Inn, ii., 119
-
----- in Bishopsgate Street, ii., 121
-
-Burbage, James, ii., 45
-
-Burleigh Street, ii., 215
-
-Burlington House, ii., 53
-
-Butler, Samuel, ii., 179
-
-Button's Coffee-house, ii., 99
-
-Byron, Lord, ii., 180
-
-
-Camden's description of St. Paul's Cathedral, ii., 33
-
-Candlewick Street, ii., 213
-
-Cannon Street, i., 116
-
-Canterbury, William de Corbeil, Archbishop of, i., 68
-
-Capital of Kings of Essex, i., 12
-
-Cardinal Wolsey, ii., 13
-
----- Wolsey's Palace, i., 116
-
-Carlton Club, ii., 108
-
-Carpenters' Company, i., 200, 202
-
-Carthusian house, first, i., 87
-
----- Order, i., 86
-
-Carved woodwork in City Churches, ii., 207
-
-Cassius, Dion, i., 3
-
-Castle, Baynard, i., 30, 122; ii., 213
-
-Castles of earth and timber, Early, i., 49
-
-Cathedral, St. Paul's, i., 16, 24
-
-"Catherine Wheel" Inn, ii., 123
-
-Cedd, St., i., 16
-
-Celtic London, i., 1-5
-
----- site of, i., 2
-
-Chair in Fishmongers' Hall, ii., 92
-
-Chancery, difference between the Inns of Court and, i., 161
-
----- Holborn and the Inns of Court and, i., 149, 177
-
----- Inns of, i., 167
-
----- Lane, i., 133, 153
-
-Change, Old, ii., 32
-
-Chantry Chapel of St. Bartholomew, built by de Walden, i., 72
-
-Chapel, Bridge, ii., 88, 90
-
----- Guildhall, i., 182
-
----- London Bridge, ii., 24
-
----- of St. John, i., 36
-
----- of St. Peter and Vincula, i., 42, 49, 57
-
----- Pardon Churchyard and, i., 88
-
----- Royal, at St. James's Palace, ii., 12
-
----- Savoy, ii., 4
-
-"Chapter" Coffee-house, ii., 137, 139
-
-Charing Cross, the "Rummer" in, ii., 179
-
----- "Three Tuns" at, ii., 71
-
-Charles I. a prisoner in St. James's Palace, ii., 9
-
----- his execution, ii., 10
-
-Charles II. and the Chaplains' dinner, anecdote of, ii., 62
-
----- Evelyn's description of Restoration of, ii., 55
-
-Charles the Martyr, ii., 10
-
-Charnel-house, St. Bartholomew, i., 78
-
-Charter of William I., i., 22
-
-Charterhouse, i., 86
-
----- alterations in sixteenth century, i., 97
-
----- ejection of schoolmaster, i., 103
-
----- fifteenth century plan of, i., 94
-
----- Hospital, i., 98
-
----- John Houghton, Prior of, i., 91
-
----- Monastery, destruction of, i., 93
-
----- Palace, i., 94
-
----- Refectory, i., 94
-
----- reforms of Archdeacon Hale, i., 103
-
----- School, i., 102
-
----- ---- moved to Godalming, i., 104
-
-Chaucer, i., 124
-
----- marriage of, ii., 4
-
-Cheapside, i., 126; ii., 29, 30
-
----- St. Mary-le-Bow, ii., 210
-
-"Cheshire Cheese," ii., 173
-
-Cheshire Cheese Club, ii., 99
-
-Christchurch, ii., 39
-
-Christ Church, Spitalfields, ii., 207
-
-Christ's Hospital, ii., 35, 194, 196
-
----- ---- pictures at, ii., 200
-
----- ---- removed to Horsham, ii., 203
-
----- ---- Samuel Pepys and, ii., 198
-
-_Chronicle of the Grey Friars of London_, i., 109
-
-Church, All Hallows the More, i., 230
-
----- consecrated by Heraclius, Temple, i., 133
-
----- desecration of Temple, i., 145
-
----- effigies in Temple, i., 136
-
----- Life of the City, i., 127
-
----- Organ, Temple, i., 145
-
----- St. Andrew in Holborn, i., 164
-
----- St. Andrew in the Wardrobe, ii., 50
-
----- St. Bartholomew the Great, former neglected condition of, i., 66
-
----- St. Bride, ii., 6
-
----- St. Buttolph, ii., 38
-
----- St. Helen, ii., 184
-
----- St. Leonard's, ii., 42
-
----- St. Mary le Bow, i., 24
-
----- St. Michael-le-Querne, ii., 32
-
-Churches, carved woodwork in City, ii., 207
-
----- City, ii., 203
-
----- destroyed, Wren's, ii., 206
-
----- in London, number of, ii., 23
-
----- Plays in, i., 129
-
-Churchyard and Chapel, Pardon, i., 88
-
-Citizens, liveries of, i., 192
-
----- Middlesex granted to the, i., 23
-
-City and See of London, Arms of the, i., 233
-
----- banquets, i., 188
-
----- Churches, carved woodwork in, ii., 207
-
----- ---- ii., 203
-
----- Church life of the, i., 127
-
----- Companies, i., 191
-
----- ---- barges of the, i., 195
-
----- ---- Charity and Religion of, i., 195
-
----- ---- Patron Saints of, i., 196
-
----- ---- promotion of trade by, i., 196
-
----- Customs of the, i., 187
-
----- Feasts, i., 192
-
----- Freedom of the, i., 185
-
----- Gates of, i., 11
-
----- Heart of the, ii., 217
-
----- of palaces, ii., 215
-
-Civil War troubles, i., 102
-
-Clare Market, ii., 216
-
-Clarendon House, ii., 53
-
-Clement's Inn, i., 175
-
-Clerkenwell, i., 129, 140
-
-Clerks' Company, Parish, i., 129
-
-Cleveland Row, Theodore Hook in, ii., 181
-
-Clifford's Inn, i., 175
-
-Clipping or "sweating" coin, i., 109
-
-Clockmakers' Company, i., 202
-
-Cloister Court, ii., 50
-
-Cloth Fair, Smithfield, i., 116
-
-Clothworkers' Company, i., 199
-
----- Hall, i., 222
-
-Club, Albemarle, ii., 110
-
----- Alfred, ii., 107
-
----- Alpine, ii., 110
-
----- Army and Navy, ii., 102
-
----- Arthur's, ii., 101
-
----- Athenæum, ii., 105
-
----- August Society of the Wanderers, ii., 101
-
----- Authors', ii., 110
-
----- Bath, ii., 110
-
----- Boodle's, ii., 101
-
----- Brooks's, ii., 101, 103
-
----- Button's Coffee-house, ii., 99
-
----- Carlton, ii., 108
-
----- Cheshire Cheese, ii., 99
-
----- Cock, ii., 99
-
----- Cocoa Tree, ii., 101, 180
-
----- Conservative, ii., 109
-
----- Fox, ii., 104
-
----- Garrick, ii., 107
-
----- Guards', ii., 101
-
----- Hurlingham, ii., 110
-
----- Junior United Service, ii., 102
-
----- Kit Cat, ii., 177
-
----- Literary, ii., 180
-
----- Marlborough, ii., 110
-
----- Marylebone Cricket, ii., 110
-
----- National, ii., 109
-
----- Oriental, ii., 106
-
----- "Rag and Famish," ii., 103
-
----- Reform, ii., 108
-
----- "Sublime Society of Beef Steaks," ii., 100
-
----- "Thatched House," ii., 180
-
----- Travellers', ii., 104
-
----- Union, ii., 104
-
----- United Service, ii., 101
-
----- United University, ii., 104
-
----- White's, ii., 101
-
-Clubs of London, ii., 99
-
-Coach and Coach-Harness Company, i., 202
-
-"Coal Hole," ii., 177
-
-Cock Club, ii., 99
-
-"Cock" Inn, ii., 71
-
-Cockpit Theatre, ii., 58, 59
-
-Cocoa Tree Club, ii., 101, 180
-
-Coffee, first introduction of, ii., 135
-
-Coffee-house, Button's, ii., 99
-
-Coffee-houses, Old London, ii., 135
-
----- as lecture rooms, ii., 146
-
----- as public reading-rooms, ii., 143
-
----- Manners and modes in, ii., 148
-
----- Museums at, ii., 146
-
----- Quack medicines sold at, ii., 144
-
----- Sales at, ii., 146
-
-Coin, clipping or "sweating," i., 109
-
-Coins found in the Thames, i., 10
-
-Colchester keep, compared with the keep of the Tower, i., 33
-
-Cold Harbour Gate, i., 41
-
-Colechurch, Peter of, ii., 85
-
-Coleman Street, i., 18
-
-Colet, i., 86
-
-Collections, Zoological, ii., 63
-
-Colony, Danish, ii., 208
-
-Commerce, Trade and, ii., 186
-
-Common Hall, i., 186
-
-"Common Playhouses," ii., 43
-
-Companies, Barges of City, i., 195
-
----- Charity and Religion of City, i., 195
-
----- City, i., 191
-
----- Halls of the, i., 217
-
----- Patron Saints of City, i., 196
-
----- Promotion of trade by City, i., 196
-
----- Spoliation of the, i., 214
-
-Company, Apothecaries', i., 201
-
----- Armourers' and Braziers', i., 201
-
----- Bakers', i., 201
-
----- Barbers' or Barber Surgeons', i., 201
-
----- Blacksmiths', i., 201
-
----- Bowyers', i., 201
-
----- Brewers', i., 201
-
----- Broderers', i., 201
-
----- Carpenters', i., 200, 202
-
----- Clockmakers', i., 202
-
----- Clockworkers', i., 199
-
----- Coach and Coach Harness, i., 202
-
----- Cooks', i., 202
-
----- Coopers', i., 203
-
----- Cordwainers', i., 203
-
----- Curriers', i., 203
-
----- Cutlers', i., 203
-
----- Distillers', i., 203
-
----- Drapers', i., 198
-
----- Dyers', i., 203
-
----- Fanmakers', i., 204
-
----- Farriers', i., 204
-
----- Feltmakers', i., 204
-
----- Fishmongers', i., 195, 197, 198
-
----- Fletchers', 201, 204
-
----- Founders', i., 204
-
----- Framework Knitters', i., 205
-
----- Fruiterers', i., 205
-
----- Girdlers', i., 205
-
----- Glass-sellers', i., 206
-
----- Glaziers', i., 206
-
----- Glovers', i., 206
-
----- Goldsmiths', i., 195, 197
-
----- Gold and Silver Wyre Drawers', i., 206
-
----- Grocers', i., 197
-
----- Gunmakers', i., 206
-
----- Haberdashers', i., 199
-
----- Horners', i., 207
-
----- Innholders', i., 207
-
----- Ironmongers', i., 199
-
----- Joiners', i., 207
-
----- Leathersellers', i., 200, 207
-
----- Loriners', i., 208
-
----- Masons', i., 208
-
----- Mercers', i., 197
-
----- Merchant Taylors', i., 198
-
----- Musicians', i., 208
-
----- Needlemakers', i., 208
-
----- Painters' or Painter-stainers', i., 208
-
----- Parish Clerks', i., 129
-
----- Pattenmakers', i., 209
-
----- Pewterers', i., 209
-
----- Plaisterers', i., 209
-
----- Playing-card Makers', i., 209
-
----- Plumbers', i., 209
-
----- Poulters', i., 210
-
----- Saddlers', i., 200, 210
-
----- Salters', i., 199
-
----- Scriveners', i., 210
-
----- Shipwrights', i., 211
-
----- Skinners', i., 196, 199
-
----- Spectacle-makers', i., 211
-
----- Stationers', i., 212
-
----- Tallow Chandlers', i., 212
-
----- Tin-plate Workers', i., 212
-
----- Turners' or Wood-potters', i., 212
-
----- Tylers' and Bricklayers', i., 212
-
----- Upholders', i., 212
-
----- Vintners', i., 197, 199
-
----- Wax Chandlers', i., 212
-
----- Weavers', i., 213
-
----- Wheelwrights', i., 213
-
----- Woolmen's, i., 213
-
-"Concentric" Castle, i., 40
-
-Conduit, ii., 31
-
-"Conduit, The Little," ii., 32
-
-Conference, Savoy, ii., 5
-
-Congreve, ii., 177
-
-Consecration of the Temple Church by Heraclius, i., 133
-
-Conservative Club, ii., 109
-
-Constable of the Tower, Geoffrey de Mandeville, i., 41
-
----- William Puinctel, i., 45
-
-Conversion of Jews, i., 108
-
-Cooks' Company, i., 202
-
----- Row, ii., 213
-
-Coopers' Company, i., 203
-
-Corbeil, William de, Archbishop of Canterbury, i., 68
-
-Corbis, Peter--Water engineer, ii., 91
-
-Cordwainers' Company, i., 203
-
-Cornhill, i., 126; ii., 213
-
----- Gray born in, ii., 171
-
-Corporation, religious services of the, i., 183
-
-Corpus Christi Day, i., 127
-
-Court and Chancery, difference between the Inns of, i., 161
-
----- ---- Holborn and the Inns of, i., 149, 177
-
----- Buildings, Mitre, i., 147
-
----- Cloister, ii., 50
-
----- Hare, i., 145
-
----- Northumberland, i., 154
-
----- of Requests, ii., 2
-
----- Plays in halls of Inns of, i., 143
-
----- Tanfield, i., 146
-
----- Wardrobe, ii., 50
-
-Covent Garden, ii., 52, 216
-
----- ---- Literary associations of, ii., 178
-
-Cowley, Abraham, ii., 171
-
-Cowper, ii., 174
-
-Craven Buildings, ii., 216
-
-Crayford, Battle at, i., 14
-
-Cripplegate, i., 11, 21
-
----- wooden houses, i., 115
-
-Croft, Spittle, i., 89
-
-Crooked Streets, Narrow and, i., 112
-
-Crosby estate at Hanworth-on-Thames, ii., 186
-
----- Hall, i., 123; ii., 37, 182
-
----- Place, i., 115, 122
-
----- Richard, Duke of Gloucester, at, ii., 190
-
----- Sir John, i., 122; ii., 88, 185
-
----- Thomas More at, ii., 190
-
-Cross, Demolition of St. Paul's, i., 120
-
----- Eleanor, ii., 31
-
-Crossbows, i., 56
-
-"Cross Keys" in Bishopsgate Street, ii., 120
-
-Cross, Paul's, i., 119; ii., 34
-
-"Crown" Coffee-house, ii., 138
-
----- Inn, Holborn, ii., 126
-
-"Crowned or Cross Keys" Inn, ii., 117
-
-"Crug-baskets," ii., 200
-
-Crusaders, their influence on architecture, i., 134
-
-Crutched Friars, ii., 217
-
-Crypt of St. Ann's Chapel, i., 139
-
-Crypts, Guildhall, i., 180
-
-Cursitors' Inn, i., 174
-
-Custom House, ii., 21
-
-Customs of the City, i., 187
-
-Cutlers' Company, i., 203
-
-
-Dance, George, Architect, i., 182
-
-Dane, Anlaf the, i., 10
-
-Danes destroyed London, i., 13
-
----- massacre of the, ii., 208
-
-Danish colony, ii., 208
-
----- invasion, i., 19
-
-Davenant, ii., 69
-
-Davies, Thomas, the actor, ii., 178
-
-Davy's Inn, i., 155, 165, 172
-
-Death, Black, i., 88
-
-Dekker, ii., 168
-
-Demolition of Paul's Cross, i., 120
-
-Description of Restoration of Charles II., Evelyn's, ii., 55
-
-Desecration of Temple Church, i., 145
-
-Destruction of Charterhouse monastery, i., 93
-
----- of Monuments, ii., 36
-
----- of Wren's churches, ii., 206
-
-"Devil" Inn, ii., 173
-
-Devonshire House, ii., 53
-
-Dickens' days in Hungerford Stairs, ii., 179
-
-Difference between Inns of Court and Inns of Chancery, i., 161
-
-"Dine with Duke Humphrey, to," i., 117
-
-Dinner, anecdote of Charles II. and the Chaplains', ii., 62
-
-Dion Cassius, i., 3
-
-Disabilities of Jews, i., 107
-
-Distillers' Company, i., 203
-
-_Diurnal_, Rugge's, ii., 56
-
-Doctors, Heroic, ii., 74
-
-"Dog" Inn, ii., 70
-
-"Dolphin" Inn, ii., 123
-
-Dominicans' monastery in Shoe Lane, i., 150
-
-Dorset Gardens Theatre, ii., 68
-
----- Thomas Sackville, first Earl of, ii., 171
-
-Dowgate, i., 8
-
-Downing Street, ii., 54
-
-Drapers' Company, i., 198
-
-Drayton, Michael, ii., 171
-
-Dress of apprentices, i., 124
-
-Drury Lane Theatre, ii., 68
-
-Dryden, ii., 178
-
-"Duke Humphrey, to dine with," i., 117
-
-Duke of Albemarle, Monk, ii., 75
-
----- of Gloucester, at Crosby Hall, Richard, ii., 190
-
-Duke's House Theatre, ii., 67
-
----- Place, ii., 40
-
-Dyers' Company, i., 203
-
-
-Earl of Warwick, Inn of, in Warwick Lane, i., 123
-
-Earls of Bedford, ii., 216
-
-Early castles of earth and timber, i., 49
-
----- Times, London in, i., 1-26
-
-Earth and timber, early castles of, i., 49
-
-Eastcheap, i., 126
-
----- and Westcheap, markets of, ii., 213
-
-East Smithfield, Edmund Spenser born in, ii., 171
-
-Effigies in Temple Church, i., 136
-
-Ejection of Charterhouse Schoolmaster, i., 103
-
-Eleanor Cross, ii., 31
-
-Elizabeth, Industries encouraged by, ii., 49
-
-Elizabethan London, ii., 21
-
-England, Bank of, ii., 217
-
-Enlargement of the Tower by Richard I., i., 44
-
-Erkenwald, Bishop of London, i., 17
-
-Ermin Street, i., 7
-
-Escape from the Tower of Flambard, Bishop of Durham, i., 39
-
-Essex, capital of the Kings of, i., 12
-
----- Street, ii., 215
-
-"Estates, Bridge House," ii., 87
-
-Ethnological Society, ii., 161
-
-Etiquette in Hyde Park, ii., 67
-
-Etymology of London, i., 2
-
-Eve, Midsummer, ii., 40
-
-Evelyn, John, ii., 54
-
-Evelyn's description of Restoration of Charles II., ii., 55
-
-Exchange, Old, ii., 214
-
----- Royal, ii., 28, 217, 218
-
-Execution of Charles I., ii., 10
-
-Expulsion of Jews, i., 110
-
-Extraordinary bribery, i., 101
-
-
-Fair, Bartholomew, ii., 220
-
----- Smithfield Cloth, i., 116
-
-Fanmakers' Company, i., 204
-
-Farriers' Company, i., 204
-
-Father Gerard, prisoner in Tower, i., 63
-
-Feasts, City, i., 192
-
-Feltmakers' Company, i., 204
-
-Fenchurch Street, ii., 214
-
-Ferries, Thames, ii., 23
-
-Fields, Goodman's, ii., 38
-
-Finsbury, ii., 43
-
-Fire, Great, i., 179, 215; ii., 73, 76
-
----- London rebuilt after Great, ii., 80
-
-Fires at the Temple, i., 144
-
----- Frequency of, i., 125
-
-First Bishop of London, Mellitus, i., 16
-
----- Carthusian house, i., 87
-
----- Introduction of Coffee, ii., 135
-
----- Prisoners sent to the Tower, i., 50
-
-Fishmongers' Company, i., 195, 197, 198
-
----- Hall, i., 218
-
----- ---- chairs in, ii., 92
-
-FitzStephen's _Description of London_, i., 38
-
-Flambard, Bishop of Durham, escape from the Tower of, i., 39
-
-Fleet, Liberty of the, ii., 222
-
----- Prison, ii., 222
-
----- River, i., 149
-
-Fletcher, ii., 168
-
-Fletchers' Company, i., 201, 204
-
-Flogging of apprentices, i., 124
-
-Floods at Whitehall, ii., 57
-
-Florence, Friscobaldi of, ii., 187
-
-Fludyer Street, ii., 54
-
-Folkmote, i., 23
-
-Ford across Thames, i., 4
-
-"Foreigners," i., 123
-
-Foreigners in London, ii., 26
-
-Former neglected condition of St. Bartholomew's Church, i., 66
-
-Founder of Lincoln's Inn, Henry de Lacy, i., 150
-
-Founders' Company, i., 204
-
-"Four Swans" Inn in Bishopsgate Street, ii., 121, 122
-
-Fox Club, ii., 104
-
-Framework Knitters' Company, i., 205
-
-France, Petty, ii., 28
-
-Franklin, Benjamin, i., 83
-
-Freedom of London, i., 152
-
----- of the City, i., 185
-
-Frequency of fires, i., 125
-
-Friars, Augustine, ii., 36
-
----- Austin, ii., 27, 217
-
----- Black, ii., 217
-
----- Crutched, ii., 217
-
-_Friars of London, Chronicle of the Grey_, i., 109
-
-Friscobaldi of Florence, ii., 187
-
-Fruiterers' Company, i., 205
-
-Furnival's Inn, i., 167
-
-
-Galleried Inns, ii., 116
-
-Game of Mall, ii., 64
-
-"Game of Swans," i., 204
-
-Garden, Bear, ii., 47
-
----- Covent, ii., 52, 216
-
----- Old Spring, ii., 58
-
----- Stairs, Paris, ii., 44
-
----- Temple, i., 142
-
-"Garraway's" Coffee-house, ii., 137
-
-Garrick Club, ii., 107
-
-Gate, Bridge, ii., 88, 90
-
----- Traitors', ii., 24, 90
-
-Gates of City, i., 11
-
-Gaunt at Savoy Palace, John of, ii., 3
-
-Geographical Society, Royal, ii., 160
-
-Geological Society, ii., 155
-
-"George" Inn, ii., 117, 166
-
-Gerard prisoner in Tower, Father, i., 63
-
-"Gerard's Hall" Inn, ii., 132
-
-German Hanse Merchants, ii., 187
-
-Gibbons's Statue of James II., Grinling, ii., 60
-
-_Gilda Teutonicorum_, ii., 27
-
-Girdlers' Company, i., 205
-
-Glasshouse Yard, ii., 49
-
-Glass-making, ii., 49
-
-Glass-sellers' Company, i., 206
-
-Glaziers' Company, i., 206
-
-Globe Theatre, ii., 45
-
-Glovers' Company, i., 206
-
-Glovers in Blackfriars, i., 206
-
-Godalming, Charterhouse School moved to, i., 104
-
-Gog and Magog, i., 180
-
-Gold and Silver Wyre Drawers' Company, i., 206
-
-Goldsmith Building, i., 146
-
----- Oliver, ii., 172, 176
-
-Goldsmiths' Company, i., 195, 197
-
----- Hall, i., 219
-
----- Row, ii., 32
-
-Goodman's Fields, ii., 38
-
-Gordon Riots, ii., 221
-
-"Governance of London, the," i., 15
-
-"Grand Tour, the," ii., 66
-
-Grasse Church, ii., 214
-
-Gray born in Cornhill, ii., 171
-
-Gray's Inn, i., 161, 162
-
-Great Fire, i., 121, 179, 215; ii., 73, 76
-
----- ---- a blessing, i., 115
-
----- ---- London rebuilt after, ii., 80
-
----- Plague, ii., 73
-
----- Tower Hill, scaffold on, i., 64
-
-"Grecian," ii., 200
-
----- Coffee-house, ii., 137
-
-"Green Dragon" Inn, in Bishopsgate Street, ii., 121, 122
-
-Greenwich, Palace at, ii., 25
-
-Gresham, residence of Sir Thomas, ii., 37
-
----- Sir Thomas, ii., 219
-
-_Grey Friars of London, Chronicle of the_, i., 109
-
-Grey Friars' monastery, ii., 195
-
----- Reginald de, i., 161
-
-Griffin, prisoner in Tower keep, i., 55
-
-Grocers' Company, i., 197
-
----- Hall, i., 179, 218
-
-Guards' Club, ii., 101
-
-Guild, i., 22
-
-Guilda Aula Teutonicorum, i., 227
-
-Guildhall, The, i., 178, 190; ii., 31
-
----- Chapel, i., 182
-
----- Crypts, i., 180
-
----- Historic scenes in the, i., 187
-
----- Library, i., 183
-
----- "Little Ease" at the, i., 186
-
----- of the Steel-yard, i., 230
-
----- Portraits at the, i., 184
-
----- Windows in the, i., 189
-
-_Gull's Horne-Book, The_, i., 118
-
-Gundulf, architect of Tower, i., 32, 33
-
-Gunmakers' Company, i., 206
-
-Gunpowder manufactured in Tower, i., 60
-
-Guy Fawkes, prison of, i., 35
-
-Gwynne's house, Nell, ii., 102
-
-
-Haberdashers' Company, i., 199
-
----- Hall, i., 221
-
-Hale, Reforms of Archdeacon, i., 103
-
-Half-timbered houses, i., 113
-
-Hall, Crosby, a prison for Royalists, ii., 191
-
----- Blackwell, i., 183
-
----- Chair in Fishmongers', ii., 92
-
----- Clothworkers', i., 222
-
----- Common, i., 186
-
----- Crosby, i., 123; ii., 37, 182
-
----- Fishmongers', i., 218
-
----- Goldsmiths', i., 219
-
----- Grocers', i., 179, 218
-
----- Haberdashers', i., 221
-
----- Inner Temple, i., 139
-
----- Ironmongers', i., 222
-
----- Mercers', i., 218
-
----- Merchant Taylors', i., 179, 219
-
----- Middle Temple, i., 143
-
----- Richard, Duke of Gloucester, at Crosby, ii., 190
-
----- Salters', i., 221
-
----- Skinners', i., 221
-
----- Thomas More at Crosby, ii., 190
-
----- Vintners', i., 222
-
----- Westminster, ii., 2
-
-Halls of Inns of Court, Plays in, i., 143
-
----- of the Companies, i., 217
-
-Hamburg, i., 226
-
-Hanged, Three hundred Jews, i., 109
-
-Hansa, i., 225
-
----- brick building by the, i., 229
-
-Hanseatic League, i., 224
-
-Hanse Merchants, German, ii., 27, 187
-
-Hanworth-on-Thames, Crosby Estate at, ii., 186
-
-Harcourt Buildings, i., 146
-
-Hare Court, i., 145
-
-Haymarket, ii., 53
-
-"Head, The Monk's," ii., 58
-
-Heads on Bridge Gate, ii., 90
-
-Heart of the City, ii., 217
-
-Henry III.'s building operations at the Tower, i., 50
-
----- VIII.'s buildings, i., 61
-
-Henslowe, Philip, ii., 44
-
-Heraclius, Temple Church consecrated by, i., 133
-
-Herber, the, i., 122
-
-Herfleets' Inn, i., 174
-
-Hermitage in the Tower, i., 55
-
-Heroic Doctors, ii., 74
-
-Herrick, ii., 169
-
-Hill, St. Andrew's, ii., 50
-
-Hinton, Somersetshire, i., 87
-
-Historic Scenes in the Guildhall, i., 187
-
-"Hobson's Choice," ii., 121
-
-Holborn and the Inns of Court and Chancery, i., 149-177
-
----- Church of St. Andrew in, i., 164
-
----- Inns, ii., 124
-
----- Old Temple, in, i., 153
-
----- Origin of name, i., 149
-
----- Viaduct, i., 149
-
-Holeburn, Manor of, i., 150
-
-Holy Trinity, Priory of, ii., 39
-
-Holywell, ii., 42
-
-Hook, Theodore, in Cleveland Row, ii., 181
-
-_Horne-Book, The Gull's_, i., 118
-
-Horners' Company, i., 207
-
-Horse Races at Smithfield, i., 132
-
-Horsham, Christ's Hospital removed to, ii., 203
-
-Hospital, Bridewell, ii., 49, 196
-
----- Charterhouse, i., 98
-
----- Christ's, ii., 35, 194, 196
-
----- ---- removed to Horsham, ii., 203
-
----- for lepers, ii., 7
-
----- Pictures at Christ's, ii., 200
-
----- St. Bartholomew's, ii., 35, 196
-
----- St. Thomas's, ii., 196
-
----- Samuel Pepys and Christ's, ii., 198
-
-Houghton, John, Prior of Charterhouse in 1531, i., 91
-
-Houndsditch, ii., 39
-
-House, Arundel, ii., 216
-
----- Banqueting, Whitehall, ii., 14
-
----- Berkeley, ii., 53
-
----- Burlington, ii., 53
-
----- Clarendon, ii., 53
-
----- Custom, ii., 21
-
----- Devonshire, ii., 53
-
-"House Estates, Bridge," ii., 87
-
----- First Carthusian, i., 87
-
----- Howard, i., 98
-
----- in Blackfriars, Shakespeare's, ii., 50
-
----- Marlborough, ii., 12
-
----- Marquis of Winchester's, ii., 36
-
----- Nell Gwynne's, ii., 102
-
----- "Nonesuch," ii., 24
-
----- Salisbury, ii., 216
-
----- Sessions, without Newgate, i., 164
-
----- Southampton, i., 154
-
----- twelfth century, i., 112
-
----- Winchester, ii., 46
-
----- York, ii., 13
-
-Houses, Anglo-Saxon, i., 114
-
----- and shops on old London Bridge, i., 112
-
----- Artizans', i., 125
-
----- Bishops', ii., 216
-
----- half-timbered, i., 113
-
----- merchants', i., 123
-
----- near Temple, wooden, i., 116
-
----- of nobility, i., 122
-
----- wooden, Cripplegate, i., 115
-
-"Humphrey, to dine with Duke," i., 117
-
-Hungerford Stairs, Dickens' days in, ii., 179
-
-Hunting, i., 132
-
-Hurlingham Club, ii., 110
-
-Hurriers, i., 199
-
-Hyde Park, ii., 66, 67
-
-
-Imprisoned in Tower, Jews, i., 58
-
-Imprisonment of Knights Templars, i., 59
-
-Industries encouraged by Queen Elizabeth, ii., 49
-
-Influence on Architecture, Crusaders', i., 134
-
-Inner Temple, i., 141
-
----- and Middle Temples, i., 161
-
----- Temple Hall, i., 139
-
-Inn, Henry de Lacy, founder of Lincoln's, i., 150
-
----- Bacon's i., 174
-
----- Barnard's, i., 168
-
----- Clement's, i., 175
-
----- Clifford's, i., 175
-
----- Cursitors', i., 174
-
----- Davy's, i., 155, 165, 172
-
----- Earl of Warwick, in Warwick Lane, i., 123
-
----- Furnival's, i., 167
-
----- Gray's, i., 161, 162
-
----- Herfleet's, i., 174
-
----- Kidderminster, i., 174
-
----- Lincoln's, i., 155, 157, 160, 166; ii., 42
-
----- Lyon's, i., 167, 176
-
----- New, i., 173
-
----- Scrope's, i., 176
-
----- Six Clerks, i., 174
-
----- Staple, i., 116, 153, 160, 170, 171
-
-Innholders' Company, i., 207
-
-Inns of Chancery, i., 167
-
----- of Court and Inns of Chancery, difference between, i., 161
-
----- ---- Plays in halls of, i., 143
-
----- ---- and Chancery, Holborn and the, i., 149, 177
-
----- at Southwark, ii., 114
-
----- and Taverns, old, ii., 46, 70, 113
-
----- Angel, Wych Street, ii., 131
-
----- Axe, Aldermanbury, ii., 131
-
----- Bell, Warwick Lane, ii., 131
-
----- Bell and Crown, Holborn, ii., 125
-
----- Belle, ii., 114
-
----- Blossoms, ii., 131
-
----- Blue Boar, ii., 118
-
----- Boars' Head, ii., 168
-
----- Bolt-in-Tun, ii., 127
-
----- Bull, ii., 119
-
----- ---- Bishopsgate Street, ii., 121
-
----- ---- and Mouth, ii., 129
-
----- Catherine Wheel, ii., 123
-
----- "Cheshire Cheese," ii., 173
-
----- Cross Keys, Bishopsgate Street, ii., 120
-
----- Crown, Holborn, ii., 126
-
----- Crowned or Cross Keys, ii., 117
-
----- "Devil," ii., 173
-
----- Dolphin, ii., 123
-
----- Four Swans, Bishopsgate Street, ii., 121, 122
-
----- Galleried, ii., 116
-
----- George, ii., 117, 166
-
----- Gerard's Hall, ii., 132
-
----- Green Dragon, Bishopsgate Street, ii., 121, 122
-
----- Holborn, ii., 124
-
----- in King Street, Westminster, ii., 70
-
----- King's Head, ii., 116
-
----- "Mitre," ii., 173
-
----- Nag's Head, Whitcomb Street, ii., 132
-
----- Oxford Arms, ii., 130
-
----- Queen's Head, ii., 116, 117
-
----- St. George's, ii., 117
-
----- Saracen's Head, ii., 119, 123
-
----- Spread Eagle, ii., 120
-
----- Swan with Two Necks, ii., 133
-
----- Tabard, ii., 114, 121, 166
-
----- Three Nuns, ii., 118
-
----- "Two Swan," ii., 122
-
----- White Hart, ii., 115, 123
-
----- White Horse, ii., 127
-
-Insanitary condition of Old London, i., 115
-
-Installation of the Lord Mayor, i., 186
-
-Institute, Archæological, ii., 164
-
----- Anthropological, ii., 163
-
-Introduction of Coffee, first, ii., 135
-
-Invasion, Danish, i., 19
-
-Ireland Yard, ii., 50
-
-Ironmongers' Company, i., 199
-
----- Hall, i., 222
-
-Islington, ii., 53
-
-
-Jacobite Coffee-houses, ii., 140
-
-James I. and the Temple, i., 144
-
----- II., Grinling Gibbons's statue of, ii., 60
-
-Jeffreys, Judge, and Temple Church organ, i., 145
-
-Jewry Lane, Poor, i., 108
-
----- Leicester, i., 108
-
----- Old, i., 108
-
----- Street, i., 108
-
-Jews, ii., 215
-
----- Conversion of, i., 108
-
----- disabilities of, i., 107
-
----- expulsion of, i., 110
-
----- Imprisoned in Tower, i., 58
-
----- in London, i., 106
-
----- Money-lending by, i., 107
-
----- plundered, i., 122
-
----- prejudice against, i., 109
-
----- three hundred hanged, i., 109
-
-Johnson, Dr., in Fleet Street, ii., 172
-
-Johnson's Buildings, i., 146
-
-Joiners' Company, i., 207
-
-Jomsborg, i., 225
-
-Jones, Inigo, ii., 14, 52
-
-Jonson, Ben, ii., 168
-
-Jousts at Smithfield, i., 130
-
-Junior United Service Club, ii., 102
-
-
-Keep of Tower of London compared with Colchester keep, i., 33
-
-Kensington Palace, ii., 16
-
-Kidderminster Inn, i., 174
-
-Killigrew, ii., 69
-
-King Street, Westminster, Inns in, ii., 70
-
-King's Bench Walk, i., 144
-
-"King's Head" Inn, ii., 116
-
-"King's House," i., 61; ii., 67
-
-Kings of Essex, capital of, i., 12
-
-Kit Cat Club, ii., 177
-
-Knights Hospitallers, i., 140
-
----- Templars, imprisonment, i., 59
-
-Kontors of the League, i., 226
-
-
-La Belle Sauvage Yard, ii., 127
-
-Labelye, builder of Westminster Bridge, ii., 94
-
-Lacy, Henry de, founder of Lincoln's Inn, i., 150
-
-Lady Chapel and printing shop, i., 82, 83
-
-Lamb Building, i., 147
-
----- Charles, ii., 175
-
-Lambeth Palace, ii., 17
-
-Lane, Ave Mary, ii., 215
-
----- Chancery, i., 133, 153
-
----- Inn of Earl of Warwick in Warwick, i., 123
-
----- Mincing, i., 8; ii., 27
-
----- "Poor Jewry," i., 108
-
----- Sermon, ii., 214
-
----- Shoe, i., 150
-
----- Sopars', ii., 30
-
-Lawyers in the Temple, settlement of, i., 140
-
-Leadenhall, ii., 27, 40, 214
-
-League, The Hanseatic, i., 224
-
----- Kontors of the, i., 226
-
-Learned Societies of London, ii., 150
-
-Leather-sellers' Company, i., 200, 207
-
-Lecture rooms, Coffee-houses as, ii., 146
-
-Leicester Jewry, i., 108
-
----- Square, ii., 216
-
-Lepers, Hospital for, ii., 7
-
-_Liber Albus_, i., 122
-
-Liberty of the Fleet, ii., 222
-
-Library, Guildhall, i., 183
-
-Life of the City, Church, i., 127
-
----- Street, i., 127
-
-Lincoln's Inn, i., 155, 157, 160, 161; ii., 42
-
----- Henry de Lacy, founder of, i., 150
-
-Literary associations of Covent Garden, ii., 178
-
----- ---- Pall Mall, ii., 179
-
----- ---- St. James' Street, ii., 180
-
----- ---- The Temple, i., 146
-
----- Club, ii., 180
-
----- Shrines of Old London, ii., 166
-
-Literature, Royal Society of, ii., 156
-
-"Little Conduit, The," ii., 32
-
-"Little Ease," i., 34, 58
-
----- ---- at the Guildhall, i., 186
-
-Liveries of Citizens, i., 192
-
-Lives of the People, i., 121
-
-"Lloyd's" Coffee-house, ii., 139
-
-Locke, John, ii., 171
-
-"Lock, Rock," ii., 88
-
-Lombard Street, ii., 27, 214
-
----- ---- Pope born in, ii., 171
-
-Lombardy merchants, ii., 26
-
-_London's Armory_, i., 240
-
-Lord Mayor, Installation of the, i., 186
-
-Loriners' Company, i., 208
-
-Lothbury, ii., 214
-
-Lovel, Sir Thomas, ii., 42
-
-Lübeck, i., 226
-
-Ludgate, i., 11, 24; ii., 213
-
-Lydgate's _London's Lickpenny_, i., 125
-
-_Lynn, dun_, i., 2
-
-Lyon's Inn, i., 167, 176
-
-
-Macaulay's picture of London, ii., 55
-
-Mall, the game of, ii., 63, 64
-
-Malmesbury, Abbot of, i., 159
-
-Mandeville, Geoffrey de, Constable of the Tower, i., 41
-
-Manners and modes in Coffee-houses, ii., 148
-
-Manny, Sir Walter de, i., 89
-
-Manor of Holeburn, i., 150
-
-Mansion, Sir Paul Pindar's, ii., 123
-
-Manufacture of _gunpowder_ in Tower, i., 60
-
-Mariners, St. Clement patron saint of, ii., 209
-
-Market, Clare, ii., 216
-
-Markets of Eastcheap and Westcheap, ii., 213
-
-Marlborough Club, ii., 110
-
----- House, ii., 12
-
-Marriage of Chaucer, ii., 4
-
-Marylebone Cricket Club, ii., 110
-
-Masons' Company, i., 208
-
-Masques, i., 144
-
-Massacre of the Danes, ii., 208
-
-Massinger, Philip, ii., 168, 169
-
-Mathematical School, Royal, ii., 198
-
-Mayor, Installation of the Lord, i., 186
-
-May-poles, i., 132
-
-Meat Market, Shambles or, ii., 35
-
-Mediæval London, i., 106
-
-Mellitus, first Bishop of London, i., 16
-
-_Memorials of Brooks's_, ii., 103
-
-Menagerie at the Tower, i., 52
-
-Mercers' Company, i., 197
-
----- Hall, i., 218
-
-Merchant Taylors' Company, i., 198
-
----- ---- Hall, 1., 179, 219
-
----- ---- School, i., 94, 104
-
-Merchants, German Hanse, ii., 187
-
----- of Lombardy, ii., 26
-
----- Hanse, ii., 27
-
-Merchants' houses, i., 123
-
-Mermaid Tavern, ii., 30, 168
-
-Middle Temple, i., 141, 165
-
----- ---- Hall, i., 143
-
----- Temples, Inner and, i., 161
-
-Middlesex granted to the citizens, i., 23
-
-Midsummer Eve, ii., 40
-
-Millianers, i., 199
-
-Milton, John, born in Bread Street, ii., 170
-
-Mincing Lane, i., 8; ii., 27
-
-Minories, ii., 38
-
-Mint, Tower, i., 64
-
-Mitre Court Buildings, i., 147
-
-"Mitre" Inn, ii., 173
-
-Mob, Tower surprised by, i., 53
-
-Modern London founded after the Restoration, ii., 53
-
-Monastery, destruction of Charterhouse, i., 93
-
----- Grey Friars, ii., 195
-
----- in Shoe Lane, Dominicans', i., 150
-
-Money-lending by Jews, i., 107
-
-Monk, Duke of Albemarle, ii., 75
-
-"Monk's Head, The," ii., 58
-
-Monks tortured and executed, i.,92
-
-Montagu, Lady Mary Wortley, ii., 177
-
-Monument of Sir John Beauchamp, i., 118
-
-Monuments in the Temple, i., 139
-
----- destruction of, ii., 36
-
-Moorgate, i., 25
-
-Moorfields, i., 122
-
-More, i., 86
-
----- Thomas, at Crosby Hall, ii., 190
-
-Mosaic pavements, i., 12
-
-Museums at Coffee-houses, ii., 146
-
-Musicians' Company, i., 208
-
-
-"Nag's Head" Inn, Whitcomb Street, ii., 132
-
-Name Holborn, Origin of the, i., 149
-
-Names of Streets, i., 123
-
-Narrow and crooked streets, i., 112
-
----- and unsavoury streets, i., 125
-
----- escape of Richard III., ii., 189
-
-National Club, ii., 109
-
-Needlemakers' Company, i., 208
-
-Newgate, ii., 26
-
----- Sessions House without, i., 164
-
-Newington, playhouse at, ii., 44
-
-New Inn, i., 173
-
----- Temple, i., 163
-
-Nobility, houses of, i., 122
-
-"Nonesuch House," ii., 24, 91
-
-Norfolk, Duke of, i., 96
-
-Norman London, i., 21, 26
-
----- Well, i., 62
-
-North, Sir Edward, i., 95
-
-Northburgh, Michael de, i., 89
-
-Northumberland Avenue, ii., 215
-
----- Court, i., 154
-
-Norway, St. Olaf patron saint of, ii., 209
-
-Number of Churches in London, ii., 23
-
-
-Office, Rolls, i., 153
-
-Old Bailey, i., 25; ii., 212
-
----- Bridges, ii., 82
-
----- Change, ii., 32
-
----- Exchange, ii., 214
-
----- Inns, ii., 46
-
----- ---- in Westminster, ii., 70, 71
-
----- Jewry, i., 108
-
----- London Bridge, houses and shops on, i., 112
-
----- Prisons, ii., 221
-
----- St. Paul's, i., 116
-
----- Spring Garden, ii., 58
-
----- Temple in Holborn, i., 153
-
----- Theatres, ii., 167
-
----- time punishments, i., 130
-
-Order, Carthusian, i., 86
-
-Orderic, i., 30, 31
-
-Ordinance of the Staple, i., 171
-
-Organ, Temple Church, i., 145
-
-Oriental Club, ii., 106
-
-Origin of the name Holborn, i., 149
-
-"Oxford Arms" Inn, ii., 130
-
-
-Pageant of London, ii., 193
-
----- of the Streets, ii., 211
-
-Pageants, i., 192
-
----- on the Thames, i., 194
-
-Painters' or Painter-stainers' Company, i., 208
-
-Palace, Bridewell, ii., 48
-
----- Buckingham, ii., 15, 16
-
----- Cardinal Wolsey's, i., 116
-
----- Charterhouse, i., 94
-
----- Greenwich, ii., 25
-
----- Lambeth, ii., 17
-
----- St. James's, ii., 7, 61
-
----- Savoy, ii., 3
-
----- Westminster, ii., 1, 2
-
----- Whitefriars, ii., 60
-
----- Whitehall, ii., 9, 11, 13, 56
-
-Palaces, City of, ii., 215
-
----- of London, ii., 1
-
-Pall Mall, ii., 63
-
----- ---- Literary Associations of, ii., 179
-
-Panton Street, ii., 54
-
-"Papye," ii., 37
-
-Pardon Churchyard and Chapel, i., 88
-
-Paris Garden Stairs, ii., 44
-
-Parish Clerks' Company, i., 129
-
-Park, Hyde, ii., 66, 67
-
----- St. James's, ii., 63
-
-Passage, Subterranean, i., 62
-
-Paternoster Row, ii., 215
-
-Patron Saint of Norway, St. Olaf, ii., 209
-
----- ---- of Mariners, ii., 209
-
----- Saints of City Companies, i., 196
-
-Pattenmakers' Company, i., 209
-
-Paul's Cathedral, St., i., 16, 24
-
----- Cross, i., 119; ii., 34
-
----- ---- Demolition of, i., 120
-
-"Paul's School," ii., 34
-
-Paul's Walk, i., 117; ii., 33
-
-Pavements, Mosaic, i., 12
-
-Penn, Sir William, ii., 77
-
-Penthouse, i., 125
-
-People, Lives of the, i., 121
-
-Pepys, Samuel, ii., 54
-
----- ---- and Christ's Hospital, ii., 198
-
----- as a dramatic critic, ii., 70
-
----- as a playgoer, ii., 67
-
-Pepys's London, ii., 52
-
-Peter of Colechurch, ii., 85
-
-Petty France, ii., 28
-
-Pewterers' Company, i., 209
-
-Piccadilly, ii., 53
-
-Picture of London, Macaulay's, ii., 55
-
-Pictures at Christ's Hospital, ii., 200
-
-"Piggin," ii., 200
-
-Pike Ponds, ii., 47
-
-Pillory, i., 130
-
-Pindar's mansion, Sir Paul, ii., 123
-
-Place, Duke's, ii., 40
-
-Plague, Great, ii., 73
-
-Plaisterers' Company, i., 209
-
-Plan of Charterhouse, fifteenth century, i., 94
-
-Plantation, Ulster, i., 214
-
-Playhouse at Newington, ii., 44
-
----- near Blackfriars, ii., 48
-
----- the Rose, ii., 45, 47
-
----- Swan, ii., 47
-
----- Yard, ii., 50
-
-"Playhouses, Common," ii., 43, 44
-
-Playing-card Makers' Company, i., 209
-
-Plays, ii., 43
-
----- in Churches, i., 129
-
----- in Halls of Inns of Court, i., 143
-
----- Religious, i., 129
-
-Plowden, Edmund, i., 143, 145
-
-Plumbers' Company, i., 209
-
-Plundered Jews, i., 122
-
-Poet-painter, William Blake, The, ii., 176
-
-Pomerium, i., 108
-
-Ponds, Pike, ii., 47
-
-"Poor Jewry Lane," i., 108
-
-Pope born in Lombard Street, ii., 171
-
-Port of London, ii., 21
-
-Portraits at the Guildhall, i., 184
-
-Portreeve, i., 22, 23
-
-Portugal Row, Theatre in, ii., 68
-
-Pottery, Roman, i., 5
-
-Poulters' Company, i., 210
-
-Poultry, The, ii., 30, 214
-
-"Pound sterling," i., 232
-
-Prejudice against Jews, i., 109
-
-Princes murdered in the Tower, i., 36
-
-Printing-house, Richardson's, ii., 172
-
-Printing-shop, Lady Chapel and, i., 82, 83
-
-Prior, John Walford, i., 72
-
----- of Charterhouse in 1531, John Houghton, i., 91
-
----- of St. Bartholomew, William Bolton, i., 76
-
-Priory of Holy Trinity, ii., 39
-
----- of St. Mary Overie, ii., 86
-
-Prison, Abbot of Westminster and Monks in, i., 59
-
----- Fleet, ii., 222
-
----- for Royalists, Crosby a, ii., 191
-
----- of Guy Fawkes, i., 35
-
----- of Ranulph Flambard, Bishop of Durham, i., 39
-
----- of Sir Walter Raleigh, i., 35
-
----- Subterranean, i., 62
-
-Prisoner in St. James's Palace, Charles I. a., ii., 9
-
-Prisoners in Tower, Scotch, i., 59
-
----- Royal, i., 60
-
----- sent to the Tower, First, i., 50
-
-Prisons, Old, ii., 221
-
-Proceedings, _quo warranto_, i., 216
-
-Projecting storeys of houses, i., 114
-
-Promotion of Trade by City Companies, i., 197
-
-Puinctel, William, Constable of the Tower, i., 45
-
-Punishments, Old-time, i., 130
-
----- School, ii., 202
-
-"Purgatory," St. Bartholomew, i., 78
-
-
-Quack medicines sold at Coffee-houses, ii., 144
-
-Queenhithe, ii., 21
-
-"Queen's Head" Inn, ii., 116, 117
-
-Quintain, i., 132
-
-_Quo warranto_ proceedings, i., 216
-
-
-Races at Smithfield, Horse, i., 132
-
-"Rag and Famish," ii., 103
-
-Rahere, i., 67
-
-Rahere's vision, i., 67
-
-"Rainbow" in Fleet Street, ii., 135
-
-Raleigh, Prison of Sir Walter, i., 35
-
-Ranelagh, Vauxhall and, ii., 222
-
-Rawlinson, Daniel, a loyal innkeeper, ii., 71
-
-Rebuilt after great fire, London, ii., 80
-
-Refectory, Charterhouse, i., 94
-
-Reform Club, ii., 108
-
-Reforms of Archdeacon Hale, i., 103
-
-Relics in the Temple, Treasures and, i., 138
-
-Religion, City Companies, their charity and, i., 195
-
-Religious plays, i., 129
-
----- services of the Corporation, i., 183
-
-Renovations of the Tower, Wren's, i., 35
-
-Requests, Court of, ii., 2
-
-Residence of Sir Thomas Gresham, ii., 37
-
-Restoration of Charles II., Evelyn's description of, ii., 55
-
----- of St. Bartholomew, i., 81, 84
-
----- Modern London founded after the, ii., 53
-
-Rich, Sir Richard, i., 78
-
-Richard, Duke of Gloucester, at Crosby Hall, ii., 190
-
----- I.'s enlargement of the Tower, i., 44
-
----- III., Narrow escape of, ii., 189
-
-Richardson's printing-house, ii., 172
-
-"Ridings," i., 124
-
-Riots, London, ii., 221
-
-"Rock Lock," ii., 88
-
-Rolls Office, i., 153
-
-Roman basilica, i., 7
-
----- bath, i., 7
-
----- London, i., 6-12
-
----- ---- Bridge, i., 10
-
----- pottery, i., 5
-
----- remains, i., 28
-
----- wall, i., 11
-
-Rose playhouse, The, ii., 45, 47
-
-Row, Cooks', ii., 213
-
----- Goldsmiths', ii., 32
-
----- Paternoster, ii., 215
-
-Royal Asiatic Society, ii., 158
-
----- Chapel, at St. James's Palace, ii., 12
-
----- Exchange, ii., 28, 217, 218
-
----- Geographical Society, ii., 160
-
----- Institution, ii., 154
-
----- Mathematical School, ii., 198
-
----- Prisoners, i., 60
-
----- Society, ii., 72, 150
-
----- Society of Literature, ii., 156
-
-Royalists, Crosby a prison for, ii., 191
-
-Rugge's _Diurnal_, ii., 56
-
-"Rummer" in Charing Cross, The, ii., 179
-
-Russell Street, ii., 178
-
-Rutland Place, i., 96
-
-
-Sackville, Thomas, first Earl of Dorset, ii., 171
-
-Saddlers' Company, i., 200, 210
-
-St. Andrew, Holborn, Church of, i., 164; ii., 207
-
----- in the Wardrobe, Church of, ii., 50
-
----- Undershaft, ii., 37, 204
-
-St. Andrew's Hill, ii., 50
-
----- Holborn, ii., 207
-
-St. Ann's Chapel, Crypt of, i., 139
-
-St. Bartholomew the Great, Smithfield, i., 66
-
----- Restoration of, i., 81, 84
-
-St. Bartholomew's Hospital, ii., 35, 196
-
-St. Bénezet, ii., 85
-
-St. Bride, Church of, ii., 6
-
-St. Bruno, i., 86
-
-St. Buttolph, Church of, ii., 38
-
-St. Catherine Cree, ii., 204
-
-St. Cedd, i., 16
-
-St. Clement Danes, ii., 208
-
-St. Clement, patron saint of mariners, ii., 209
-
-St. Dunstan's, Stepney, ii., 204
-
-St. Ethelreda's, Ely Place, ii., 204
-
-St. George's Inn, i., 171
-
-St. Giles', Cripplegate, ii., 204
-
-St. Helen, Church of, ii., 41, 184
-
-"St. James's," Addison at the, ii., 180
-
----- Coffee-house, ii., 137, 141
-
----- Palace, ii., 7, 61
-
----- Park, ii., 63
-
----- Square, ii., 53
-
----- Street, Literary associations of, ii., 180
-
----- Swift at the, ii., 180
-
-St. John, Chapel of, i., 36
-
-St. Leonard's Church, ii., 42
-
-St. Margaret's, Lothbury, Screen in, i., 230
-
-St. Martin's le Grand, ii., 36
-
-St. Mary, Aldermanbury, ii., 31
-
----- Axe, ii., 37
-
-St. Mary-le-Bow, Church of, i., 24
-
----- Cheapside, ii., 210
-
-St. Mary Overie, ii., 46
-
----- ---- Priory, ii., 86
-
----- Woolchurch, ii., 214
-
-St. Michael-le-Querne, Church of, ii., 32
-
-St. Olaf, patron saint of Norway, ii., 209
-
-St. Olave's, Hart Street, ii., 205
-
-St. Paul's Cathedral, i., 16, 24; ii., 23
-
----- Camden's description of, ii., 33
-
----- Coffee-house, ii., 139
-
----- Old, i., 116
-
-St. Peter ad Vincula, Chapel of, i., 42, 49, 57
-
-St. Sepulchre's, near Newgate, ii., 205
-
-St. Thomas of the Bridge, ii., 24
-
-St. Thomas's Hospital, ii., 196
-
-Saints of City Companies, Patron, i., 196
-
-"Saladin Tithe," i., 134
-
-Sales at Coffee-houses, ii., 146
-
-Salisbury House, ii., 216
-
-Salters' Company, i., 199
-
----- Hall, i., 221
-
-"Saracen's Head" Inn, ii., 119
-
----- ---- on Snow Hill, ii., 123
-
-Savoy Chapel, ii., 4
-
----- Conference, ii., 5
-
----- Palace of the, ii., 3
-
----- ---- pillaged by Wat Tyler, ii., 4
-
-Saxon London, i., 12-21
-
-Scaffold on Great Tower Hill, i., 64
-
-Scenes in the Guildhall, Historic, i., 187
-
-School, Charterhouse, i., 102
-
----- ---- moved to Godalming, i., 104
-
----- Merchant Taylors', i., 94, 104
-
----- Paul's, ii., 34
-
----- Punishments, ii., 202
-
----- Royal Mathematical, ii., 198
-
-Schoolmaster, Ejection of Charterhouse, i., 103
-
-Science, British Association for the Advancement of, ii., 158
-
-Scotch prisoners in Tower, i., 59
-
-Screen in St. Margaret's, Lothbury, i., 230
-
-Scriveners' Company, i., 210
-
-Scrope's Inn, i., 176
-
-Sculpture in the Temple, i., 135
-
-Seal of Bishops of London, i., 236
-
-Sebert, i., 16
-
-See of London, Arms of the City and, i., 233
-
-Sergeants-at-Law, i., 142
-
-Sermon Lane, ii., 214
-
-Sessions House, without Newgate, i., 164
-
-Settlement at Westminster, Roman, i., 11
-
----- of lawyers in the Temple, i., 140
-
-Shakespeare, ii., 45
-
----- in London, ii., 26, 37
-
-Shakespeare's house in Blackfriars, ii., 50
-
-Shambles, or meat market, ii., 35
-
-Shipwrights' Company, i., 211
-
-Shirley, James, ii., 171
-
-Shoe Lane, i., 150
-
-Shops on Old London Bridge, houses and, i., 112
-
-Shoreditch, ii., 42
-
-Site of Celtic London, i., 2
-
-_Six Clerks Inn_, i., 174
-
-Skating on the Thames, i., 131
-
-Skinners' Company, i., 196, 199
-
----- Hall, i., 221
-
-Smithfield, Cloth Fair, i., 116
-
----- horse races at, i., 132
-
----- jousts at, i., 130
-
-Societies of London, Learned, ii., 150
-
-Society, Anthropological, ii., 162
-
----- Ethnological, ii., 161
-
----- Geological, ii., 155
-
----- of Antiquaries, ii., 150, 153
-
----- of Arts, Royal, ii., 154
-
----- of Literature, Royal, ii., 156
-
----- Royal, ii., 150
-
----- Royal Asiatic, ii., 156
-
----- Royal Geographical, ii., 160
-
----- Royal Statistical, ii., 160
-
-Sopars' Lane, ii., 30
-
-Southampton House, i., 154
-
-Southwark Bridge, ii., 82, 97
-
----- Inns at, ii., 114
-
-Spectacle-makers' Company, i., 211
-
-Spencer, Sir John, ii., 190
-
-Spenser, Edmund, born in East Smithfield, ii., 171
-
-Spittle Croft, i., 89
-
-Spoliation of the Companies, i., 214
-
-Sports of London youths, i., 131
-
-"Spread Eagle" Inn, ii., 120
-
-Square, St. James's, ii., 53
-
----- Leicester, ii., 216
-
-Stairs, Paris Garden, ii., 44
-
----- Thames, ii., 22
-
-Standard, The, ii., 31
-
-Staple Inn, i., 116, 153, 160, 170, 171
-
----- Ordinance of the, i., 171
-
-Stationers' Company, i., 212
-
-Statistical Society, Royal, ii., 160
-
-Statue of James II., Grinling Gibbons's, ii., 60
-
-Steel-yard, i., 227; ii., 21
-
----- Guildhall of the, i., 230
-
-Stepney, ii., 53
-
-"Sterling, a pound," i., 232
-
-Stone, London, i., 7, 28, 126
-
-Stow, i., 8, 11, 13; ii., 41
-
-Stow's _Survey_, ii., 25
-
-Strand, i., 126
-
-Street, Artillery, ii., 212
-
----- Bread, ii., 30
-
----- Broad, ii., 36
-
----- Burleigh, ii., 215
-
----- Candlewick, ii., 213
-
----- Cannon, i., 116
-
----- Coleman, i., 18
-
----- Downing, ii., 54
-
----- Ermin, i., 7
-
----- Essex, ii., 215
-
----- Fenchurch, ii., 214
-
----- Fludyer, ii., 54
-
----- Jewry, i., 108
-
----- Lombard, ii., 27, 214
-
----- Panton, ii., 54
-
----- Tooley, ii., 209
-
----- Watling, i., 6
-
-Streets, Life of the, i., 127
-
----- Names of, i., 123
-
----- Narrow and crooked, i., 112
-
----- Narrow and unsavoury, i., 125
-
----- Pageant of the, ii., 211
-
-"Sublime Society of Beef Steaks," ii., 100
-
-Subterranean passage, i., 62
-
----- prison, i., 62
-
-"Sun" Inn, ii., 70
-
-Surprised by mob, Tower, i., 53
-
-Surrender of London to William I., i., 30
-
-_Survey_, Stow's, ii., 25
-
-Sutton, Thomas, i., 98
-
-"Swans, Game of," i., 204
-
-Swan-marking, i., 204
-
-Swan playhouse, ii., 47
-
-"Swan with Two Necks," Lad Lane, ii., 133
-
-"Sweating" coin, Clipping or, i., 109
-
-Swift at the "St. James's," ii., 180
-
-Sword in the City Arms, i., 235
-
-
-Tabard Inn, ii., 46, 114, 166
-
-"Tabard" Inn in Gracechurch Street, ii., 120, 121
-
-Tacitus, i., 6, 7
-
-Tallow Chandlers' Company, i., 212
-
-Tanfield Court, i., 146
-
-Tavern, Mermaid, ii., 30, 168
-
-Taverns and Inns, ii., 70, 113
-
-Templars, the, i., 139
-
-"Temple, Associates of the," i., 136
-
-Temple, Authors of the, ii., 174
-
----- Church consecrated by Heraclius, i., 133
-
----- ---- desecration of, i., 145
-
----- ---- effigies in, i., 136
-
----- ---- organ, i., 145
-
----- Fires at the, i., 144
-
----- Garden, i., 142
-
----- Hall, Inner, i., 139
-
----- ---- Middle, i., 143
-
----- in Holborn, Old, i., 153
-
----- Inner, i., 141
-
----- James I. and the, i., 144
-
----- Literary Associations of the, i., 146
-
----- Middle, i., 141, 165
-
----- Monuments in the, i., 139
-
----- New, i., 163
-
----- Settlement of lawyers in the, i., 140
-
----- Sculpture in the, i., 135
-
----- The, i., 133-148
-
----- Treasures and relics in the, i., 138
-
----- Wooden houses near, i., 116
-
-Temples, Inner and Middle, i., 161
-
-_Teutonicorum, Gilda_, ii., 27
-
-Thames, i., 4
-
----- Coins found in the, i., 10
-
----- Ferries, ii., 23
-
----- Ford across, i., 4
-
----- Pageants on the, i., 195
-
----- Skating on the, i., 131
-
----- "Stairs," ii., 22
-
-Thames' watermen, ii., 22, 167
-
-"Thatched House" Club, ii., 180
-
-Theatre, Cockpit, ii., 59
-
----- Dorset Gardens, ii., 68
-
----- Drury Lane, ii., 68
-
----- Duke's House, ii., 67
-
----- Globe, ii., 45
-
----- in Portugal Row, ii., 68
-
----- King's House, ii., 67
-
-Theatres, Old, ii., 44, 167
-
-Thorney, i., 12
-
-Three hundred Jews hanged, i., 109
-
-"Three Nuns" Inn, ii., 118
-
----- Tuns" at Charing Cross, ii., 71
-
-Tilt Yard, ii., 58
-
-Timber, Early Castles of earth and, i., 49
-
-Tin-plate Workers' Company, i., 212
-
-"Tithe, Saladin," i., 134
-
-Tooley Street, ii., 209
-
-"Tour, The Grand," ii., 66
-
-Tower, Gundulf, architect of, i., 32, 33
-
----- of London, i., 27-65
-
----- keep compared with Colchester keep, i., 33
-
----- Wren's renovations of, i., 35
-
-Town of London, a walled, i., 110
-
-Trade and commerce, ii., 186
-
----- City Companies; their promotion of, i., 196
-
-"Traitors' Gate," i., 51, 65; ii., 24, 90
-
-Travellers' Club, ii., 104
-
-Treasures and relics in the Temple, i., 138
-
-Troubles, Civil War, i., 102
-
-Turners' or "Wood-potters'" Company, i., 212
-
-Turnmill Brook, i., 149
-
-Twelfth century house, i., 112
-
-"Two Swan" Inn yard, ii., 122
-
-Tyler, Wat, Savoy Palace pillaged by, ii., 4
-
----- Wat, i., 235
-
-Tylers' and Bricklayers' Company, i., 212
-
-
-Ulster Plantation, i., 214
-
-Undershaft, St. Andrew, ii., 37
-
-Union Club, ii., 104
-
-United Service Club, ii., 101
-
----- University Club, ii., 104
-
-Unsavoury Streets, Narrow and, i., 125
-
-Upholders' Company, i., 212
-
-
-Vandyke's Studio in Blackfriars, ii., 49
-
-Vauxhall, ii., 58
-
----- and Ranelagh, ii., 222
-
-Viaduct, Holborn, i., 149
-
-Vikings, i., 225
-
-Vintners' Company, i., 197, 199
-
----- Hall, i., 222
-
-Vintry, ii., 28
-
-Vision of Rahere, i., 67
-
-Wadlow, Simon, ii., 56
-
-
-Walbrook, i., 5
-
-Walden, Roger de, builds chantry chapel of St. Bartholomew, i., 72
-
-Walford, Prior John, i., 72
-
-Walk, King's Bench, i., 144
-
----- Paul's, i., 117; ii., 33
-
-Walled Town, London a, i., 110
-
-Walls, London, ii., 212
-
----- of London, i., 122
-
----- Roman, i., 11
-
-Walton, Izaac, ii., 171
-
-Walworth, Sir William, i., 235
-
-Wardrobe, Church of St. Andrew in the, ii., 50
-
----- Court, ii., 50
-
-Warwick Lane, Inn of Earl of Warwick in, i., 123
-
-Wash House Court, i., 94
-
-Water-engineer, Peter Corbis, ii., 91
-
-Waterloo Bridge, ii., 97
-
-Watermen, Thames', ii., 22, 167
-
-Watling Street, i., 6
-
-Wax Chandlers' Company, i., 212
-
-Weavers' Company, i., 213
-
-Westcheap, ii., 30
-
----- markets of Eastcheap and, ii., 213
-
-Westminster, i., 126
-
----- abbot and monks of, in prison, i., 59
-
----- Axe Yard, ii., 54
-
----- Bridge, ii., 94
-
----- Hall, ii., 2
-
----- Old inns in, ii., 70, 71
-
----- Palace of, ii., 1
-
----- Roman settlement at, i., 111
-
-Wheelwrights' Company, i., 213
-
-"Wherries," ii., 22
-
-Whist played at Coffee-houses, ii., 138
-
-Whitefriars Palace, ii., 60
-
-Whitehall, ii., 57
-
----- Banqueting House, ii., 14
-
----- Floods at, ii., 57
-
----- Palace of, ii., 9, 11, 13, 56, 57
-
-"White Hart" Inn, ii., 115, 123
-
-"White Horse" Inn, ii., 127
-
-White Tower, i., 34
-
-"White's" Chocolate-house, ii., 137
-
----- Club, ii., 101
-
-Whittington, Sir Richard, i., 178
-
-Wild-fowl in St. James's Park, ii., 63
-
-William I., Charter of, i., 22
-
----- i., 29
-
----- surrender of London to, i., 30
-
-"Will's" Coffee-house in Russell Street, ii., 137, 141
-
-Winchester House, ii., 46
-
----- House of Marquis of, ii., 36
-
-Windows in the Guildhall, i., 189
-
-Witham, Somersetshire, i., 87
-
-Wolsey, Cardinal, ii., 13
-
-Wolsey's Palace, Cardinal, i., 116
-
-Wooden houses near Temple, i., 116
-
----- ---- at Cripplegate, i., 115
-
-Woodwork in City Churches, Carved, ii., 207
-
-Woolcombers, i., 213
-
-Woolmen's Company, i., 213
-
-Wren, Sir Christopher, i., 43; ii., 205
-
-Wren's building, i., 144
-
----- churches destroyed, ii., 206
-
----- renovations of the Tower, i., 35
-
-
-Yard, Glasshouse, ii., 49
-
----- Ireland, ii., 50
-
----- Playhouse, ii., 50
-
----- Tilt, ii., 58
-
----- Westminster, Axe, ii., 54
-
-York House, ii., 13
-
-Youths, Sports of London, i., 131
-
-
-Zoological collections, ii., 63
-
-[Illustration]
-
- * * * * *
-
-Bemrose & Sons Limited, Printers, Derby and London.
-
- * * * * *
-
-
-Selected from the Catalogue of BEMROSE & SONS Ltd.
-
-
-MEMORIALS OF THE COUNTIES OF ENGLAND.
-
-_Beautifully Illustrated. Demy 8vo, cloth extra, gilt top. Price 15/-
-each net._
-
-
-MEMORIALS OF OLD OXFORDSHIRE.
-
-Edited by the Rev. P. H. DITCHFIELD, M.A., F.S.A. Dedicated by kind
-permission to the Right Hon. the Earl of Jersey, G.C.B., G.C.M.G.
-
- "This beautiful book contains an exhaustive history of 'the
- wondrous Oxford,' to which so many distinguished scholars and
- politicians look back with affection. We must refer the reader
- to the volume itself ... and only wish that we had space to
- quote extracts from its interesting pages."--_Spectator._
-
-
-MEMORIALS OF OLD DEVONSHIRE.
-
-Edited by F. J. SNELL, M.A. Dedicated by kind permission to the Right
-Hon. Viscount Ebrington.
-
- "A fascinating volume, which will be prized by thoughtful
- Devonians wherever they may be found ... richly illustrated,
- some rare engravings being represented."--_North Devon
- Journal._
-
-
-MEMORIALS OF OLD HEREFORDSHIRE.
-
-Edited by the Rev. COMPTON READE, M.A. Dedicated by kind permission to
-Sir John G. Cotterell, Bart.
-
- "Another of these interesting volumes like the 'Memorials of
- Old Devonshire,' which we noted a week or two ago, containing
- miscellaneous papers on the history, topography, and families
- of the county by competent writers, with photographs and other
- illustrations."--_Times._
-
-
-MEMORIALS OF OLD HERTFORDSHIRE.
-
-Edited by PERCY CROSS STANDING. Dedicated by kind permission to the
-Right Hon. the Earl of Clarendon, G.C.B.
-
- "The book, which contains some magnificent illustrations,
- will be warmly welcomed by all lovers of our county and its
- entertaining history."--_West Herts and Watford Observer._
-
- "The volume as a whole is an admirable and informing one, and
- all Hertfordshire folk should possess it, if only as a partial
- antidote to the suburbanism which threatens to overwhelm their
- beautiful county."--_Guardian._
-
-
-MEMORIALS OF OLD HAMPSHIRE.
-
-Edited by the Rev. G. E. JEANS, M.A., F.S.A. Dedicated by kind
-permission to His Grace the Duke of Wellington, K.G.
-
- "'Memorials of the Counties of England' is worthily carried on
- in this interesting and readable volume."--_Scotsman._
-
-
-MEMORIALS OF OLD SOMERSET.
-
-Edited by F. J. SNELL, M.A. Dedicated by kind permission to the Most
-Hon. the Marquis of Bath.
-
- "In these pages, as in a mirror, the whole life of the
- county, legendary, romantic, historical, comes into view,
- for in truth the book is written with a happy union of
- knowledge and enthusiasm--a fine bit of glowing mosaic put
- together by fifteen writers into a realistic picture of the
- county."--_Standard._
-
-
-MEMORIALS OF OLD WILTSHIRE.
-
-Edited by ALICE DRYDEN.
-
- "The admirable series of County Memorials ... will, it is
- safe to say, include no volume of greater interest than that
- devoted to Wiltshire."--_Daily Telegraph._
-
-
-MEMORIALS OF OLD SHROPSHIRE.
-
-Edited by the Rev. THOMAS AUDEN, M.A., F.S.A.
-
- "Quite the best volume which has appeared so far in a series
- that has throughout maintained a very high level."--_Tribune._
-
-
-MEMORIALS OF OLD KENT.
-
-Edited by the Rev. P. H. DITCHFIELD, M.A., F.S.A., and GEORGE
-CLINCH, F.G.S. Dedicated by special permission to the Rt. Hon. Lord
-Northbourne, F.S.A.
-
- "A very delightful addition to a delightful series. Kent, rich
- in honour and tradition as in beauty, is a fruitful subject
- of which the various contributors have taken full advantage,
- archæology, topography, and gossip being pleasantly combined
- to produce a volume both attractive and valuable."--_Standard._
-
-
-MEMORIALS OF OLD DERBYSHIRE.
-
-Edited by the Rev. J. CHARLES COX, LL.D., F.S.A. Dedicated by kind
-permission to His Grace the Duke of Devonshire, K.G.
-
- "A valuable addition to our county history, and will possess
- a peculiar fascination for all who devote their attention
- to historical, archæological, or antiquarian research, and
- probably to a much wider circle."--_Derbyshire Advertiser._
-
-
-MEMORIALS OF OLD DORSET.
-
-Edited by the Rev. THOMAS PERKINS, M.A., and the Rev. HERBERT PENTIN,
-M.A. Dedicated by kind permission to the Right Hon. Lord Eustace Cecil,
-F.R.G.S.
-
- "The volume, in fine, forms a noteworthy accession to the
- valuable series of books in which it appears."--_Scotsman._
-
-
-MEMORIALS OF OLD WARWICKSHIRE.
-
-Edited by ALICE DRYDEN.
-
- "Worthy of an honoured place on our shelves. It is also one of
- the best, if not the best, volume in a series of exceptional
- interest and usefulness."--_Birmingham Gazette._
-
-
-MEMORIALS OF OLD NORFOLK.
-
-Edited by the Rev. H. J. DUKINFIELD ASTLEY, M.A., Litt.D., F.R.Hist.S.
-Dedicated by kind permission to the Right Hon. Viscount Coke, C.M.G.,
-C.V.O.
-
- "This latest contribution to the history and archæology of
- Norfolk deserves a foremost place among local works.... The
- tasteful binding, good print, and paper are everything that
- can be desired."--_Eastern Daily Press._
-
-
-MEMORIALS OF OLD LONDON. Two vols. Price 25/- net. Edited by the Rev.
-P. H. DITCHFIELD, M.A., F.S.A.
-
- CONTENTS: Celtic, Roman, Saxon, and Norman London, by the
- Rev. W. J. Loftie, F.S.A.--The Tower of London, by Harold
- Sands, F.S.A.--St. Bartholomew's Church, Smithfield, by
- J. Tavenor-Perry.--The Charterhouse, by the Rev. A. G. B.
- Atkinson, M.A.--Glimpses of Mediæval London, by G. Clinch,
- F.G.S.--The Palaces of London, by the Rev. R. S. Mylne,
- LL.D., F.S.A.--The Temple, by the Rev. H. G. Woods, D.D.,
- Master.--The Inns of Court, by E. Williams--The Guildhall,
- by C. Welsh, F.S.A.--The City Companies, by the Editor.--The
- Kontor of the Hanse, by J. Tavenor-Perry.--The Arms of London,
- by J. Tavenor-Perry.--Elizabethan London, by T. Fairman
- Ordish, F.S.A.--The London of Pepys, by H. B. Wheatley,
- F.S.A.--The Thames and its Bridges, by J. Tavenor-Perry.--The
- Old Inns of London, by Philip Norman, LL.D.--London Clubs,
- by Sir Edward Brabrook, C.B., F.S.A.--The Coffee Houses,
- by G. L. Apperson.--Learned Societies of London, by Sir
- Edward Brabrook, C.B., F.S.A.--Literary Shrines, by Mrs.
- Lang.--Crosby Hall, by the Editor.--The Pageant of London;
- with some account of the City Churches, Christ's Hospital,
- etc., by the Editor.
-
-
-MEMORIALS OF OLD ESSEX. Edited by A. CLIFTON KELWAY, F.R.Hist.S.
-
- Among the contributors are: Guy Maynard, Francis W. Reader,
- Rev. J. Charles Cox, LL.D., F.S.A., C. Forbes, T. Grose Lloyd,
- C. Fell Smith, Alfred Kingston, Miller Christy, F.L.S., W. W.
- Porteous, E. Bertram Smith, Thomas Fforster, Edward Smith, and
- the Editor.
-
-
-_The following volumes are in preparation:--_
-
-MEMORIALS OF OLD SUFFOLK. Edited by VINCENT B. REDSTONE, F.R.Hist.S.
-
- Among the contributors will be: F. Seymour Stevenson, M.A.,
- Rev. J. Charles Cox, LL.D., F.S.A., L. P. Steele Hutton,
- Rev. Rowland Maitland, B.A., B. J. Balding, P. Turner, H. J.
- Hitchcock, and the Editor.
-
-
-MEMORIALS OF OLD SUSSEX. Edited by PERCY D. MUNDY.
-
-
-MEMORIALS OF OLD LANCASHIRE. Two vols. Price 25/- net. Edited by
-LIEUT.-COLONEL FISHWICK, F.S.A.
-
-
-MEMORIALS OF OLD YORKSHIRE. Edited by T. M. FALLOW, M.A., F.S.A.
-
-
-MEMORIALS OF OLD GLOUCESTERSHIRE. Edited by P. W. P. PHILLIMORE, M.A.,
-B.C.L.
-
-
-MEMORIALS OF OLD LINCOLNSHIRE. Edited by CANON HUDSON, M.A.
-
-
-MEMORIALS OF OLD NOTTINGHAMSHIRE. Edited by P. W. P. PHILLIMORE, M.A.,
-B.C.L.
-
-
-MEMORIALS OF NORTH WALES. Edited by E. ALFRED JONES.
-
-
-MEMORIALS OF OLD MANXLAND. Edited by the Rev. JOHN QUINE, M.A.
-
-
-MEMORIALS OF SOUTH WALES. Edited by E. ALFRED JONES.
-
-
-MEMORIALS OF OLD STAFFORDSHIRE. Edited by the Rev. W. BERESFORD.
-
-
-MEMORIALS OF OLD MONMOUTHSHIRE. Edited by COLONEL BRADNEY, F.S.A., and
-J. KYRLE FLETCHER.
-
-
-MEMORIALS OF OLD WORCESTERSHIRE. Edited by F. B. ANDREWS, F.R.I.B.A.
-
-
-MEMORIALS OF OLD LEICESTERSHIRE. Edited by ALICE DRYDEN.
-
-
-MEMORIALS OF OLD CHESHIRE. Edited by the VEN. THE ARCHDEACON OF
-CHESTER, and the Rev. P. H. DITCHFIELD, M.A., F.S.A.
-
-
-OLD ENGLISH GOLD PLATE.
-
-By E. ALFRED JONES. With numerous Illustrations of existing specimens
-of Old English Gold Plate, which by reason of their great rarity and
-historic value deserve publication in book form. The examples are
-from the collections of Plate belonging to His Majesty the King, the
-Dukes of Devonshire, Newcastle, Norfolk, Portland, and Rutland, the
-Marquis of Ormonde, the Earls of Craven, Derby, and Yarborough, Earl
-Spencer, Lord Fitzhardinge, Lord Waleran, Mr. Leopold de Rothschild,
-the Colleges of Oxford and Cambridge, &c. Royal 4to, buckram, gilt top.
-Price 21/- net.
-
- "Pictures, descriptions, and introduction make a book that
- must rank high in the estimation of students of its subject,
- and of the few who are well off enough to be collectors in
- this Corinthian field of luxury."--_Scotsman._
-
-
-LONGTON HALL PORCELAIN.
-
-Being further information relating to this interesting fabrique, by
-the late WILLIAM BEMROSE, F.S.A., author of _Bow, Chelsea and Derby
-Porcelain_. Illustrated with 27 Coloured Art Plates, 21 Collotype
-Plates, and numerous line and half-tone Illustrations in the text.
-Bound in handsome "Longton-blue" cloth cover, suitably designed. Price
-42/- net.
-
- "This magnificent work on the famous Longton Hall ware will be
- indispensable to the collector."--_Bookman._
-
- "The collector will find Mr. Bemrose's explanations of the
- technical features which characterize the Longton Hall
- pottery of great assistance in identifying specimens,
- and he will be aided thereto by the many well-selected
- illustrations."--_Athenæum._
-
-
-THE VALUES OF OLD ENGLISH SILVER & SHEFFIELD PLATE, FROM THE FIFTEENTH
-TO THE NINETEENTH CENTURIES.
-
-By J. W. CALDICOTT. Edited by J. STARKIE GARDNER, F.S.A. 3,000 Selected
-Auction Sale Records; 1,600 Separate Valuations; 660 Articles.
-Illustrated with 87 Collotype Plates. 300 pages. Royal 4to Cloth. Price
-42/- net.
-
- "A most comprehensive and abundantly illustrated volume....
- Enables even the most inexperienced to form a fair opinion of
- the value either of a single article or a collection, while as
- a reference and reminder it must prove of great value to an
- advanced student."--_Daily Telegraph._
-
-
-HISTORY OF OLD ENGLISH PORCELAIN AND ITS MANUFACTURES.
-
-With an Artistic, Industrial and Critical Appreciation of their
-Productions. By M. L. SOLON, the well-known Potter-Artist and
-Collector. In one handsome volume. Royal 8vo, well printed in clear
-type on good paper, and beautifully illustrated with 20 full-page
-Coloured Collotype and Photo-Chromotype Plates and 48 Collotype Plates
-on Tint. Artistically bound. Price 52/6 net.
-
- "Mr. Solon writes not only with the authority of the master of
- technique, but likewise with that of the accomplished artist,
- whose exquisite creations command the admiration of the
- connoisseurs of to-day."--_Athenæum._
-
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-MANX CROSSES; or The Inscribed and Sculptured Monuments of the Isle of
-Man, from about the end of the Fifth to the beginning of the Thirteenth
-Century.
-
-By P. M. C. KERMODE, F.S.A.Scot., &c. The illustrations are from
-drawings specially prepared by the Author, founded upon rubbings, and
-carefully compared with photographs and with the stones themselves.
-In one handsome Quarto Volume 11-1/8 in. by 8-5/8 in., printed on Van
-Gelder hand-made paper, bound in full buckram, gilt top, with special
-design on the side. Price 63/- net. The edition is limited to 400
-copies.
-
- "We have now a complete account of the subject in this very
- handsome volume, which Manx patriotism, assisted by the
- appreciation of the public in general, will, we hope, make a
- success."--_Spectator._
-
-
-DERBYSHIRE CHARTERS IN PUBLIC AND PRIVATE LIBRARIES AND MUNIMENT ROOMS.
-
-Compiled, with Preface and Indexes, for Sir Henry Howe Bemrose, Kt.,
-by ISAAC HERBERT JEAYES, Assistant Keeper in the Department of MSS.,
-British Museum. Royal 8vo, cloth, gilt top. Price 42/- net.
-
- "The book must always prove of high value to investigators in
- its own recondite field of research, and would form a suitable
- addition to any historical library."--_Scotsman._
-
-
-SOME DORSET MANOR HOUSES, WITH THEIR LITERARY AND HISTORICAL
-ASSOCIATIONS.
-
-By SIDNEY HEATH, with a fore-word by R. Bosworth Smith, of Bingham's
-Melcombe. Illustrated with forty drawings by the Author, in addition
-to numerous rubbings of Sepulchral Brasses by W. de C. Prideaux,
-reproduced by permission of the Dorset Natural History and Antiquarian
-Field Club. Dedicated by kind permission to the most Hon. the Marquis
-of Salisbury. Royal 4to, cloth, bevelled edges. Price 30/- net.
-
- "Dorset is rich in old-world manor houses; and in this
- large, attractive volume twenty are dealt with in pleasant,
- descriptive and antiquarian chapters, fully illustrated with
- pen-and-ink drawings by Mr. Heath and rubbings from brasses by
- W. de C. Prideaux."--_Times._
-
-
-THE CHURCH PLATE OF THE DIOCESE OF BANGOR.
-
-By E. ALFRED JONES. With Illustrations of about one hundred pieces
-of Old Plate, including a pre-Reformation Silver Chalice, hitherto
-unknown; a Mazer Bowl, a fine Elizabethan Domestic Cup and Cover, a
-Tazza of the same period, several Elizabethan Chalices, and other
-important Plate from James I. to Queen Anne. Demy 4to, buckram. Price
-21/- net.
-
- "This handsome volume is the most interesting book on Church
- Plate hitherto issued."--_Athenæum._
-
-
-THE OLD CHURCH PLATE OF THE ISLE OF MAN.
-
-By E. ALFRED JONES. With many illustrations, including a
-pre-Reformation Silver Chalice and Paten, an Elizabethan Beaker, and
-other important pieces of Old Silver Plate and Pewter. Crown 4to,
-buckram. Price 10/6 net.
-
- "A beautifully illustrated descriptive account of the
- many specimens of Ecclesiastical Plate to be found in the
- Island."--_Manchester Courier._
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-GARDEN CITIES IN THEORY AND PRACTICE.
-
-By A. R. SENNETT, A.M.I.C.E., &c. Large Crown 8vo. Two vols.,
-attractively bound in cloth, with 400 Plates, Plans and Illustrations.
-Price 21/- net.
-
- "... What Mr. Sennett has to say here deserves, and will no
- doubt command, the careful consideration of those who govern
- the future fortunes of the Garden City."--_Bookseller._
-
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-DERBY: ITS RISE AND PROGRESS.
-
-By A. W. DAVISON, illustrated with 12 plates and two maps. Crown 8vo,
-cloth. Price 5/-.
-
- "A volume with which Derby and its people should be well
- satisfied."--_Scotsman._
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-THE CORPORATION PLATE AND INSIGNIA OF OFFICE OF THE CITIES AND TOWNS OF
-ENGLAND AND WALES.
-
-By the late LLEWELLYNN JEWITT, F.S.A. Edited and completed with large
-additions by W. H. ST. JOHN HOPE, M.A. Fully illustrated, 2 vols.,
-Crown 4to, buckram, 84/- net. Large paper, 2 vols., Royal 4to, 105/-
-net.
-
- "It is difficult to praise too highly the careful research
- and accurate information throughout these two handsome
- quartos."--_Athenæum._
-
-
-THE RELIQUARY: AN ILLUSTRATED MAGAZINE FOR ANTIQUARIES, ARTISTS, AND
-COLLECTORS.
-
-A Quarterly Journal and Review devoted to the study of primitive
-industries, mediæval handicrafts, the evolution of ornament, religious
-symbolism, survival of the past in the present, and ancient art
-generally. Edited by the Rev. J. CHARLES COX, LL.D., F.S.A. New Series.
-Vols. 1 to 13, Super Royal 8vo, buckram, price 12/- each net. Special
-terms for sets.
-
- "Of permanent interest to all who take an interest in the
- many and wide branches of which it furnishes not only
- information and research, but also illumination in pictorial
- form."--_Scotsman._
-
- * * * * *
-
-LONDON: BEMROSE & SONS LTD., 4 SNOW HILL, E.C.; AND DERBY.
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+*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 48187 *** + +Note: Project Gutenberg also has an HTML version of this + file which includes the original illustrations. + See 48187-h.htm or 48187-h.zip: + (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/48187/48187-h/48187-h.htm) + or + (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/48187/48187-h.zip) + + + Project Gutenberg has the other volume of this work. + Volume I: see http://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/28742 + + + + + +Memorials of the Counties of England + +General Editor: + +REV. P. H. DITCHFIELD, M.A., F.S.A., F.R.S.L., F.R.Hist.S. + + +MEMORIALS OF OLD LONDON + +VOLUME II. + + +[Illustration: CRAB TREE INN, HAMMERSMITH 1898 + +_From a painting by Philip Norman, LL.D._] + + +MEMORIALS OF OLD LONDON + +Edited by + +P. H. DITCHFIELD, M.A., F.S.A. + +Fellow of the Royal Historical Society + +Author of +_The City Companies of London and their Good Works_ +_The Story of our Towns_ +_The Cathedral Churches of Great Britain_ +_&c. &c._ + +In Two Volumes + +VOL. II. + +With Many Illustrations + + + + + + + +London +Bemrose & Sons Limited, 4 Snow Hill, E.C. +and Derby +1908 + +[All Rights Reserved] + + + + +CONTENTS OF VOL. II. + + + Page + +The Palaces of London + By Rev. R. S. Mylne, B.C.L., F.S.A. 1 + +Elizabethan London + By T. Fairman Ordish, F.S.A. 21 + +Pepys's London + By H. B. Wheatley, F.S.A. 52 + +The Old London Bridges + By J. Tavenor-Perry 82 + +The Clubs of London + By Sir Edwd. Brabrook, C.B., F.S.A. 99 + +The Inns of Old London + By Philip Norman, LL.D. 113 + +The Old London Coffee-Houses + By G. L. Apperson, I.S.O. 135 + +The Learned Societies of London + By Sir Edwd. Brabrook, C.B., F.S.A. 150 + +Literary Shrines of Old London + By Elsie M. Lang 166 + +Crosby Hall + By the Editor 182 + +The Pageant of London; with some account of the City Churches, +Christ's Hospital, etc. + By the Editor 193 + +Index 223 + + + + +LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS IN VOL. II. + + +Crab Tree Inn, Hammersmith, 1898 _Frontispiece_ + (_From a painting by Philip Norman, LL.D._) + + Page, or + Facing Page + +The Houses of Parliament (_From a photo. by Mansell & Co._) 4 + +A View of the Savoy Palace from the River Thames 6 + (_From an engraving published by the Society of Antiquaries + in 1750, from a plan by G. Virtue_) + +Portion of an exact Survey of the Streets, Lanes, and Churches 8 + (_Comprehended by the order and directions of the Right + Honourable the Lord Mayor, 10th December, 1666_) + +The Prospect of Bridewell 10 + (_Published according to Act of Parliament, 1755, for Stow's + Survey_) + +The Palace of Whitehall (_From a photo. by Mansell & Co._) 14 + +St. James's Palace " " " 16 + +St. James's Palace, from Pall Mall and from the Park 18 + (_From an old print_) + +Plan of London in the time of Queen Elizabeth (1563) 24 + (_From an old print_) + +Shooting Match by the London Archers in the Year 1583 44 + (_From an old print_) + +A View of London as it appeared before the Great Fire 56 + (_From an old print_) + +The Great Fire of London (_From an old print_) 76 + +South-West View of Old St. Paul's " " 80 + +Sir John Evelyn's Plan for Rebuilding London after the Great Fire + (_From an old print_) 82 + +The Undercroft of St. Thomas of Canterbury on the Bridge 84 + +The Surrey End of London Bridge (_Drawn by J. Tavenor-Perry_) 89 + +The Foundation Stone Chair " " " 93 + +Old Westminster Bridge " " " 96 + +Badge of Bridge House Estates " " " 98 + +An Early Letter of the Royal Society, dated January 18th, 1693-4 152 + +Cheapside, with the Cross, as they appeared in 1660 170 + (_From an old print_) + +Crosby Hall (_From a drawing by Whichillo, engraved by Stour_) 184 + +St. Paul's Cathedral, with Lord Mayor's Show on the water 190 + (_From an engraving by Pugh, 1804_) + +Christ's Hospital (_From an old print_) 194 + +Carrying the Crug-basket 196 + +Wooden Platters and Beer Jack 198 + +Piggin, Wooden Spoon, Wooden Soup-ladle 199 + +Christ's Hospital: The Garden (_From a photo._) 200 + +Old Staircase at Christ's Hospital 202 + +The Royal Exchange (_From an engraving by Hollar, 1644_) 218 + + + + +THE PALACES OF LONDON + +BY THE REV. R. S. MYLNE, B.C.L. (OXON), F.S.A. F.R.S. (SCOTS.) + + +The housing of the Sovereign is always a matter of interest to the +nation. It were natural to expect that some definite arrangement +should be made for this purpose, planned and executed on a grand and +appropriate scale. Yet as a matter of fact this is seldom the case +amongst the western nations of Europe. Two different causes have +operated in a contrary direction. One is the natural predilection of +the ruler of the State for a commodious palace outside, but not far +from, the capital. Thus the great Castle of Windsor has always been +_par excellence_ the favourite residence of the King of England. The +other is the growth of parliamentary institutions. Thus the entire +space occupied by the original Royal Palace has become the official +meeting-place of the Parliament; and the King himself has perforce been +compelled to find accommodation elsewhere. + +Look at the actual history of the Royal Palace of _Westminster_, where +the High Court of Parliament now is accustomed to assemble. It was on +this very spot that Edward the Confessor lived and died, glorying in +the close proximity of the noble abbey that seemed to give sanctity to +his own abode. Here the last Saxon King entertained Duke William of +Normandy, destined to be his own successor on the throne. Here he gave +the famous feast in which he foretold the failure of the crusades, as +Baring Gould records in his delightful _Myths of the Middle Ages_. Here +Edward I. was born, and Edward III. died. The great hall was erected by +William Rufus, and the chapel by King Stephen. Henry VIII. added the +star chamber. The painted chamber, decorated with frescoes by Henry +III., was probably the oldest portion of the mediæval palace, and just +beyond was the prince's chamber with walls seven feet thick. There was +also the ancient Court of Requests, which served as the House of Lords +down to 1834. The beautiful Gothic Chapel of St. Stephen was used as +the House of Commons from 1547 to 1834. The walls were covered with +frescoes representing scenes from the Old and New Testaments. In modern +times they resounded to the eloquence of Pitt, Fox, Burke, and Canning. + +The curious crypt beneath this chapel was carefully prepared by H.M. +Office of Works for the celebration of the marriage of Lord Chancellor +Loreburn last December, and a coffin was discovered while making +certain reparations to the stonework, which is believed to contain the +remains of the famous Dr. Lyndwode, Bishop of St. David's from 1442 to +1446. + +In the terrible fire on the night of October 16, 1834, the entire +palace was destroyed with the exception of the great hall, which, begun +by William Rufus, received its present beautiful roof of chestnut wood +from Henry Yeveley, architect or master mason to Richard II. + +The present magnificent Palace of Westminster was erected by Sir +Charles Barry between 1840 and 1859 in the Gothic style, and is +certainly one of the finest modern buildings in the world. The river +front is remarkably effective, and presents an appearance which at once +arrests the attention of every visitor. It is quite twice the size of +the old palace, formerly occupied by the King, and cost three millions +sterling. It is certainly the finest modern building in London. + +Some critics have objected to the minuteness of the decorative designs +on the flat surfaces of the walls, but these are really quite in accord +with the delicate genius of Gothic architecture, and fine examples of +this kind of work are found in Belgium and other parts of the Continent. + +Every one must admit the elegance of proportion manifested in the +architect's design, and this it is which makes the towers stand out so +well above the main building from every point of view; moreover, this +is the special characteristic which is often so terribly lacking in +modern architecture. One wonders whether Vitruvius and kindred works +receive their due meed of attention in this twentieth century. + +Within the palace the main staircase, with the lobby and corridors +leading to either House of Parliament, are particularly fine, and form +a worthy approach to the legislative chambers of the vast Empire of +Great Britain. + +The Palace of the _Savoy_ also needs some notice. The original house +was built by Peter, brother of Boniface, for so many years Archbishop +of Canterbury, and uncle of Eleanor of Provence, wife of King Henry +III. By his will Peter bequeathed this estate to the monks of Montjoy +at Havering-at-Bower, who sold it to Queen Eleanor, and it became the +permanent residence of her second son Edmund, Earl of Lancaster, and +his descendants. When King John of France was made a prisoner after the +battle of Poitiers in 1356, he was assigned an apartment in the Savoy, +and here he died on April 9, 1364. The sad event is thus mentioned in +the famous chronicle of Froissart:-- + + "The King and Queen, and all the princes of the blood, and + all the nobles of England were exceedingly concerned from the + great love and affection King John had shewn them since the + conclusion of peace." + +The best-known member of the Lancastrian family who resided in this +palace is the famous John of Gaunt, Duke of Lancaster. During his +time, so tradition has it, the well-known poet Chaucer was here +married to Philippa, daughter of Sir Paon de Roet, one of the young +ladies attached to the household of Blanche, Duchess of Lancaster, +and the sister of Catherine Swynford, who at a later period became +the Duke's third wife. However this may be, the Savoy was at that +time the favourite resort of the nobility of England, and John of +Gaunt's hospitality was unbounded. Stow, in his _Chronicle_, declares +"there was none other house in the realm to be compared for beauty and +stateliness." Yet how very transitory is earthly glory, all the pride +of place and power! + +In the terrible rebellion of Wat Tyler, in the year 1381, the Savoy +was pillaged and burnt, and the Duke was compelled to flee for his +life to the northern parts of Great Britain. His Grace had become very +unpopular on account of the constant protection he had extended to the +simple followers of Wickcliffe. + +After this dire destruction the Savoy was never restored to its former +palatial proportions. The whole property passed to the Crown, and King +Henry VII. rebuilt it, and by his will endowed it in a liberal manner +as a hospital in honour of St. John the Baptist. This hospital was +suppressed at the Reformation under Edward VI., most of the estates +with which it was endowed passing to the great City Hospital of St. +Thomas. But Queen Mary refounded the hospital as an almshouse with +a master and other officers, and this latter foundation was finally +dissolved in 1762. + +Over the gate, now long destroyed, of King Henry VII.'s foundation were +these words:-- + + "Hospitium hoc inopi turbe Savoia vocatum + Septimus Henricus solo fundavit ab imo." + +[Illustration: THE HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT.] + +The church, which is the only existing remnant of former splendour, +was built as the chapel of Henry VII.'s Hospital, and is an +interesting example of Perpendicular architecture, with a curious and +picturesque belfry. In general design it resembles a college chapel, +and the religious services held therein are well maintained. Her late +Majesty Queen Victoria behaved with great generosity to the church of +the Savoy. In her capacity of Duchess of Lancaster she restored the +interior woodwork and fittings, and after a destructive fire in 1864 +effected a second restoration of the entire interior of this sacred +edifice. There is now a rich coloured roof, and appropriate seats for +clergy and people. There is also preserved a brass belonging to the +year 1522 from the grave of Thomas Halsey, Bishop of Leighlin, and +Gavin Douglas, Bishop of Dunkeld, famous in Scottish history for his +piety and learning. There is also a small figure from Lady Dalhousie's +monument, but all the other tombs perished in the flames in 1864. The +history of the central compartment of the triptych over the font is +curious. It was painted for the Savoy Palace in the fourteenth century, +afterwards lost, and then recovered in 1876. + +Amongst the famous ministers of the Savoy were Thomas Fuller, author of +the _Worthies_, and Anthony Horneck. In the Savoy was held the famous +conference between twelve bishops and twelve Nonconformists for the +revision of the Liturgy soon after the accession of King Charles II. In +this conference Richard Baxter took a prominent part. + +In this brief sketch nothing is more remarkable than the great variety +of uses to which the palace of the Savoy has been put, as well as the +gradual decay of mediæval splendour. Still, however, the name is very +familiar to the multitudes of people who are continually passing up and +down the Strand. Yet it is a far cry to the days of Archbishop Boniface +of Savoy, and Edmund Earl of Lancaster. + +_Bridewell_ is situated on a low-lying strip of land between the Thames +and the Fleet, just westwards of the south-western end of the Roman +wall of London. In early days this open space only possessed a tower +for defensive purposes, just as the famous Tower of London guarded the +eastern end of the city. Hard by was the church of St. Bride, founded +in the days of the Danes, most likely in the reign of King Canute, and +here there was a holy well or spring. Hence arose the name of Bridewell. + +In 1087, ancient records relate, King William gave choice stones from +his tower or castle, standing at the west end of the city, to Maurice, +Bishop of London, for the repair of his cathedral church. + +From time to time various rooms were added to the original structure, +which seem chiefly to have been used for some state ceremonial or +judicial purpose. Thus in the seventh year of King John, Walter de +Crisping, the Justiciar, gave judgment here in an important lawsuit. + +In 1522 the whole building was repaired for the reception of the famous +Emperor Charles V., but that distinguished Sovereign actually stayed in +the Black Friars, on the other side of the Fleet. + +King Henry VIII. made use of Bridewell for the trial of his famous +divorce case. Cardinal Campeggio was President of the Court, and in the +end gave judgment in favour of Queen Catharine of Aragon. Yet, despite +the Cardinal, Henry would have nothing more to do with Catharine, and +at the same time took a dislike to Bridewell, which was allowed to fall +into decay--in fact, nothing of the older building now remains. King +Edward VI., just before his own death in 1553, granted the charter +which converted Bridewell into a charitable institution, and after many +vicissitudes a great work is still carried on at this establishment for +the benefit of the poor of London. In May, 1552, Dr. Ridley, Bishop +of London, wrote this striking letter to Sir William Cecil, Knight, and +Secretary to the King:-- + + "Good Master Cecyl,--I must be suitor with you in our Master + Christ's cause. I beseech you be good unto him. The matter is, + Sir, that he hath been too, too long abroad, without lodging, + in the streets of London, both hungry, naked and cold. There + is a large wide empty house of the King's Majesty called + Bridewell, which would wonderfully serve to lodge Christ in, + if he might find friends at Court to procure in his cause." + +Thus the philanthropic scheme was started, and brought to completion +under the mayoralty of Alderman Sir George Barnes. + +[Illustration: A VIEW OF THE SAVOY PALACE FROM THE RIVER THAMES. + +_Published by the Society of Antiquaries in 1750, from a plan by G. +Virtue._ + +AAA The great building, now a barracks. + +BB Prison for the Savoy, and guards. + +CCC Church of St. Mary le Savoy. + +D Stairs to the waterside. + +EFG Churches of German Lutherans, French and German Calvinists.] + +_St. James's_ is the most important royal palace of London. For many a +long year it has been most closely associated with our royal family, +and the quaint towers and gateway looking up St. James's Street possess +an antiquarian interest of quite an unique character. This palace, +moreover, enshrines the memory of a greater number of famous events in +the history of our land than any other domestic building situated in +London, and for this reason is worthy of special attention. + +Its history is as follows:--Before the Norman Conquest there was a +hospital here dedicated to St. James, for fourteen maiden lepers. +A hospital continued to exist throughout the middle ages, but when +Henry VIII. became King he obtained this property by an exchange, and +converted it, as Holinshed bears witness, into "a fair mansion and +park" when he was married to Anne Boleyn. The letters "H. A." can still +be traced on the chimney-piece of the presence chamber or tapestry +room, as well as a few other memorials of those distant days. And what +days they were! Queen Anne Boleyn going to St. James's in all the +joyous splendour of a royal bride, and how soon afterwards meeting her +cruel fate at the hands of the executioner! Henry VIII. seldom lived at +St. James's Palace, perhaps on account of the weird reminiscences of +Anne Boleyn, but it became the favourite residence of Queen Mary after +her husband Philip II. returned to Spain, and here she died in utter +isolation during the dull November days of the autumn of 1558. Thus the +old palace is first associated with the sad story of two unhappy queens! + +But brighter days were coming. Prince Henry, the eldest son of James +I., settled here in 1610, and kept a brilliant and magnificent court, +attached to which were nearly 300 salaried officials. Then in two +short years he died, November 6, 1612. Then the palace was given to +Charles, who afterwards ascended the throne in 1625, and much liked +the place as a residence. It is closely associated with the stirring +events of this romantic monarch's career. Here Charles II., James II., +and the Princess Elizabeth were born, and here Marie de Medici, the +mother of Queen Henrietta Maria, took refuge in 1638, and maintained a +magnificent household for three years. It is said her pension amounted +to £3,000 a month! Her residence within the royal palace increased the +unpopularity of the King, whose arbitrary treatment of Parliament led +to the ruinous Civil War. The noble House of Stuart is ever unfortunate +all down the long page of history, and the doleful prognostications of +the Sortes Vergilianæ, sought for by the King, proved but too true in +the event. + +We quote six lines of Dryden's translation from the sixth book of the +_Æneid_, at the page at which the King by chance opened the book-- + + "Seek not to know, the ghost replied with tears, + The sorrows of thy sons in future years. + This youth, the blissful vision of a day, + Shall just be shewn on earth, and snatched away. + + . . . . . + + "Ah! couldst thou break through Fate's severe decree, + A new Marcellus shall arise in thee." + +Dr. Wellwood says Lord Falkland tried to laugh the matter off, but the +King was pensive. + +[Illustration: PORTION OF AN EXACT SURVEY OF THE STREETS, LANES, AND +CHURCHES. + +_Comprehended by the order and directions of the Right Honourable the +Lord Mayor 10th December, 1666._] + +The fortunes of war were against this very attractive but weak monarch, +who was actually brought as a prisoner of the Parliament from Windsor +Castle to his own Palace of St. James, there to await his trial on a +charge of high treason in Westminster Hall! + +Certain of his own subjects presumed to pass sentence of death upon +their own Sovereign, and have become known to history as the regicides. +Very pathetic is the story of the scenes which took place at St. +James's on Sunday, January 28, 1649. A strong guard of parliamentary +troops escorted King Charles from Whitehall to St. James's, and Juxon, +the faithful Bishop of London, preached his last sermon to his beloved +Sovereign from the words, "In the day when God shall judge the secrets +of men by Jesus Christ, according to my Gospel." His Majesty then +received the Sacrament, and spent much time in private devotion. On the +morrow he bade farewell to his dear children the Duke of Gloucester and +the Princess Elizabeth, praying them to forgive his enemies, and not to +grieve, for he was about to die a glorious death for the maintenance of +the laws and liberties of the land and the true Protestant religion. +Then he took the little Duke of Gloucester on his knees, saying, +"Sweetheart, now they will cut off thy father's head," and the young +prince looked very earnestly and steadfastly at the King, who bade him +be loyal to his brothers Charles and James, and all the ancient family +of Stuart. And thus they parted. + +Afterwards His Majesty was taken from St. James's to the scaffold at +Whitehall. There was enacted the most tragic scene connected with the +entire history of the Royal Family of England. At the hands of Jacobite +writers the highly-coloured narrative is like to induce tears of grief, +but the Puritans love to dwell on the King's weaknesses and faults. +Yet everyone must needs acknowledge the calm nobility and unwavering +courage of the King's bearing and conduct. + + "He nothing common did or mean + Upon that memorable scene, + But with his keener eye + The axe's edge did try; + Nor called the gods with vulgar spite + To vindicate his helpless right, + But bowed his comely head + Down, as upon a bed." + +The great German historian Leopold von Ranke is rightly regarded as +the best and most impartial authority on the history of Europe in the +seventeenth century. This is what he says on the martyrdom of Charles +I.:-- + + "The scaffold was erected on the spot where the kings were + wont to show themselves to the people after their coronation. + Standing beside the block at which he was to die, he was + allowed once more to speak in public. He said that the war + and its horrors were unjustly laid to his charge.... If at + last he had been willing to give way to arbitrary power, and + the change of the laws by the sword, he would not have been + in this position: he was dying as the martyr of the people, + passing from a perishable kingdom to an imperishable. He died + in the faith of the Church of England, as he had received it + from his father. Then bending to the block, he himself gave + the sign for the axe to fall upon his neck. A moment, and the + severed head was shown to the people, with the words: 'This + is the head of a traitor.' All public places, the crossings + of the streets, especially the entrances of the city, were + occupied by soldiery on foot and on horseback. An incalculable + multitude had, however, streamed to the spot. Of the King's + words they heard nothing, but they were aware of their purport + through the cautious and guarded yet positive language of + their preachers. When they saw the severed head, they broke + into a cry, universal and involuntary, in which the feelings + of guilt and weakness were blended with terror--a sort of + voice of nature, whose terrible impression those who heard it + were never able to shake off." + +These weighty words of Ranke are well worth quoting, as well as the +conclusion of the section of his great book in which he sums up his +estimate of Charles's claim to the title of martyr: + + "There was certainly something of a martyr in him, if the man + can be so called who values his own life less than the cause + for which he is fighting, and in perishing himself saves it + for the future." + +[Illustration: THE PROSPECT OF BRIDEWELL. + +_Published according to Act of Parliament, 1755, for Stow's Survey._] + +King Charles I., then, is fairly entitled to be called a martyr in the +calm and unimpassioned judgment of the greatest historian of modern +times in the learned Empire of Germany, who tests the royal claim +by a clear and concise definition, framed without any regard to the +passionate political feeling which distracted England in the days of +the Stuarts. + +And it was in the Palace of St. James that Charles I. passed the last +terrible days of his earthly life. + +On the Restoration, King Charles II. resided at Whitehall, and gave +St. James's to his brother James, Duke of York. Here Queen Mary II. +was born, and here she was married to William of Orange late in the +evening on November 4, 1677. Here also Anne Hyde, Duchess of York, died +in 1671, having lived many years more or less in seclusion in the old +palace. + +James afterwards married Mary of Modena as his second wife, and here +was born, on June 10, 1688, Prince James Edward, better known as the +Old Pretender, whose long life was spent in wandering and exile, in +futile attempts to gain the Crown, in unsuccessful schemes and ruinous +plots, until he and his children found rest within the peaceful walls +of Rome. + +Directly after he landed in England, King William III. came to St. +James's, and resided here from time to time during his possession of +the Crown, only towards the end of his reign allowing the Princess +Anne to reside in this palace, where she first heard of King William's +death. The bearer of the sad news was Dr. Burnet, Bishop of Salisbury. + +Immediately on his arrival in England, George I., Elector of Hanover, +came straight to St. James's just as King William III. had done. In his +_Reminiscences_, Walpole gives this quaint anecdote:-- + + "This is a strange country," remarked the King. "The first + morning after my arrival at St. James's, I looked out of the + window, and saw a park with walks and a canal, which they told + me were mine. The next day Lord Chetwynd, the ranger of my + park, sent me a fine brace of carp out of my canal: and I was + told I must give five guineas to Lord Chetwynd's servant for + bringing me my own carp, out of my own canal, in my own park." + +Many things seem to have surprised King George I. in his English +dominions, and he really preferred Hanover, where he died in 1725. + +George II. resided at St. James's when Prince of Wales, and here his +beloved wife, Queen Caroline of Anspach, died on November 20, 1737. +Four years previously her daughter Anne had here been married to the +Prince of Orange. It now became customary to assign apartments to +younger children of the Sovereign in various parts of the palace, which +thus practically ceased to be in the King's own occupation. The state +apartments are handsome, and contain many good portraits of royal +personages. The Chapel Royal has a fine ceiling, carved and painted, +erected in 1540, and is constantly used by royalty. George III. hardly +ever missed the Sunday services when in London. + +Of course the original palace covered more ground than is now the +case, and included the site of Marlborough House and some adjacent +gardens, now in private ownership. The German Chapel Royal, which now +projects into the grounds of Marlborough House, was originally erected +by Charles I. for the celebration of Roman Catholic worship for Queen +Henrietta Maria, and at the time gave great offence to all the nobility +and people of the land. + +"Tempora mutantur, et nos mutamur in illis." Marlborough House was +originally built by Sir Christopher Wren for the great Duke of +Marlborough, on a portion of St. James's Park given by Queen Anne for +that purpose. Here died the Duke, and his famous Duchess Sarah. The +house was bought by the Crown for the Princess Charlotte in 1817, and +was settled on the Prince of Wales in 1850. There are still a number of +interesting pictures in the grand salon of the victories of the Duke of +Marlborough by Laguerre. The garden covers the space formerly occupied +by the Great Yard of old St. James's Palace. + +Altogether, it is quite clear from the above brief account that St. +James's is the most important of the royal palaces of London, and more +closely connected than any other with the long history of English +Royalty. From the days of Henry VIII. to the present time there has +always been a close personal connection with the reigning Sovereign of +the British Empire. + +The Palace of _Whitehall_ presents a long and strange history. Hubert +de Burgh, Earl of Kent, Chief Minister of King Henry III., became +possessed of the land by purchase from the monks of Westminster for +140 marks of silver and the annual tribute of a wax taper. Hubert +bequeathed the property by his will to the Black Friars of Holborn, who +sold it in 1248 to Walter de Grey, Archbishop of York, for his Grace's +town residence. + +When Cardinal Wolsey became possessed of the northern archiepiscopal +See, he found York House too small for his taste, and he set to work +to rebuild the greater part of this palace on a larger and more +magnificent scale. On the completion of the works he took up his +abode here with a household of 800 persons, and lived with more than +regal splendour, from time to time entertaining the King himself to +gorgeous banquets, followed by masked balls. At one of these grand +entertainments they say King Henry first met Anne Boleyn. A chronicler +says the Cardinal was "sweet as summer to all that sought him." + +When the great Cardinal fell into disgrace, and the Duke of Suffolk +came to Whitehall to bid him resign the Great Seal of England, his +Eminence left his palace by the privy stair and "took barge" to Putney, +and thence to Esher; and Henry VIII. at once took possession of the +vacant property, and began to erect new buildings, a vast courtyard, +tennis court, and picture gallery, and two great gateways, all of which +are now totally destroyed. It was in this palace that he died, January +28, 1547. + +During the reign of Queen Elizabeth, Whitehall was famous for its +magnificent festivities, tournaments, and receptions of distinguished +foreign princes. Especially was this the case in 1581, when the French +commissioners came to urge the Queen's marriage with the Duke of +Anjou. Here the Queen's corpse lay in state before the interment in +March, 1603. James I. likewise entertained right royally at Whitehall, +and here the Princess Elizabeth was married to the Elector Palatine +on February 14, 1613. King James also employed that distinguished +architect Inigo Jones to build the beautiful Banqueting House, which +is all that now remains of Whitehall Palace, and is one of the finest +architectural fragments in London. The proportions are most elegant, +and the style perfect. Used as a chapel till 1890, it is now the United +Service Museum, while the great painter Rubens decorated the ceiling +for Charles I. in 1635. + +The whole plan of Inigo Jones remained unfinished, but Charles I. lived +in regal splendour in the palace, entertaining on the most liberal +scale, and forming the famous collection of pictures dispersed by the +Parliament. Here it was that the masque of Comus was acted before the +King, and other masques from time to time. After Charles's martyrdom, +Oliver Cromwell came to live at Whitehall, and died there September 3, +1658. On his restoration, in May, 1660, King Charles II. returned to +Whitehall, and kept his court there in great splendour. Balls rather +than masques were now the fashion, and Pepys and Evelyn have preserved +full descriptions of these elegant and luxurious festivities, and all +the gaiety, frivolity, and dissoluteness connected with them, and +the manner of life at Charles's court. The King died in the palace +on February 6, 1685, and was succeeded by his austere brother James, +who, during his brief reign, set up a Roman Catholic chapel within the +precincts of the royal habitation, from which he fled to France in 1688. + +[Illustration: THE PALACE OF WHITEHALL.] + +King William III. preferred other places of residence, and two +fires--one in 1691, the other in 1698--destroyed the greater part of +Whitehall, which was never rebuilt. + +_Buckingham_ Palace is now the principal residence in London of His +Majesty King Edward VII. Though a fine pile of building it is hardly +worthy of its position as the town residence of the mighty Sovereign of +the greatest Empire of the world, situated in the largest city on the +face of the globe. + +King George III. purchased Buckingham Palace in 1761 from Sir Charles +Sheffield for £21,000, and in 1775 it was settled upon Queen Charlotte. +In the reign of George IV. it was rebuilt from designs by Nash; and in +1846, during the reign of Queen Victoria, the imposing eastern façade +was erected from designs by Blore. The length is 360 feet, and the +general effect is striking, though the architectural details are of +little merit. In fact, it is a discredit to the nation that there is no +London palace for the Sovereign which is worthy of comparison with the +Royal Palace at Madrid, or the Papal Palace in Rome, though the reason +for this peculiar fact is fully set forth in the historical sketch of +the royal palaces already given. King Edward VII. was born here in +1841, and here drawing-rooms and levées are usually held. The white +marble staircase is fine, and there are glorious portraits of Charles +I. and Queen Henrietta Maria by Van Dyck, as well as Queen Victoria +and the Prince Consort by Winterhalter. There is also a full-length +portrait of George IV. by Lawrence in the State dining-room. + +In the private apartments there are many interesting royal portraits, +as well as a collection of presents from foreign princes. There is a +lake of five acres in the gardens, and the whole estate comprises about +fifty acres. There is a curious pavilion adorned with cleverly-painted +scenes from Comus by famous English artists. The view from the east +over St. James's Park towards the India Office is picturesque, and +remarkably countrified for the heart of a great city. The lake in +this park is certainly very pretty, and well stocked with various +water-fowl. The Horse Guards, Admiralty, and other public offices at +the eastern extremity of this park occupy the old site of the western +side of the Palace of Whitehall. + +_Kensington_ Palace was the favourite abode of King William III. He +purchased the property from the Earl of Nottingham, whose father had +been Lord Chancellor, and employed Sir Christopher Wren to add a storey +to the old house, and built anew the present south façade. Throughout +his reign he spent much money in improving the place, and here his +wife, Queen Mary II., died on December 28, 1694. In the same palace +King William himself breathed his last breath on March 8, 1702. + +Queen Anne lived principally at St. James's, the natural residence for +the Sovereigns of Great Britain; but she took much interest in the +proper upkeep of Kensington, and it was here that her husband died on +October 20, 1708, and herself on August 1, 1714. Shortly before, she +had placed the treasurer's wand in the hands of the Duke of Shrewsbury, +saying, "For God's sake use it for the good of my people," and all the +acts of her prosperous reign point to the real validity of the popular +title given by common consent--the good Queen Anne. + +She planted the trees on "Queen Anne's Mount," and gave gorgeous fêtes +in the Royal Gardens, whose woodland scenery possesses a peculiar +charm all its own. The noble groves and avenues of elm trees recall +St. Cloud and St. Germain in the neighbourhood of Paris, and are quite +exceptionally fine. Thus Matthew Arnold wrote:-- + + "In this lone open glade I lie, + Screened by deep boughs on either hand; + And at its end, to stay the eye, + Those black crowned, red-boled pine trees stand." + +[Illustration: ST. JAMES'S PALACE.] + +And Chateaubriand declares:-- + + "C'est dans ce parc de Kensington que j'ai médité l'Essai + historique: que, relisant le journal de mes courses d'outre + mer, j'en ai tiré les amours d'Atala." + +And Haydon says:-- + + "Here are some of the most poetical bits of tree and stump, + and sunny brown and green glens and tawny earth." + +George II. died here very suddenly on October 25, 1760, but the +Sovereigns of the House of Hanover chiefly made use of the place +by assigning apartments therein to their younger children and near +relatives. Here it was that Edward Duke of Kent lived with his wife +Victoria of Saxe-Coburg, and here their only daughter, the renowned +Queen Victoria, was born, May 24, 1819, and here she resided till her +accession to the throne in 1837. + +Kensington Palace, then, is chiefly celebrated for its associations +with William III. and Queen Victoria. In the brief account of the royal +palaces here given, it will be seen that none of the sites, with the +exception of St. James's, remained for any long period of time the +actual residence of the Sovereign, while three--Westminster, Bridewell, +and the Savoy--had passed out of royal hands for residential purposes +before the Reformation of religion was completed. Another curious fact +relates to the origin of the title to these sites, inasmuch as three of +these estates were obtained from some ecclesiastical corporation, as +the Archbishop of York, or the Hospital of St. James, though Buckingham +Palace was bought from Sir Charles Sheffield, and Kensington from the +Earl of Nottingham. + +No account of the palaces of London can be regarded as complete which +omits to mention Lambeth. For more than 700 years the Archbishops of +Canterbury have resided at this beautiful abode, intensely interesting +from its close association with all the most stirring events in the +long history of England. The estate was obtained by Archbishop Baldwin +in the year 1197 by exchange for some lands in Kent with Glanville, +Bishop of Rochester. In Saxon times Goda, the sister of King Edward the +Confessor, had bestowed this property upon the Bishopric of Rochester; +so that it has been continuously in the hands of the Church for near +900 years. The fine red-brick gateway with white stone dressings, +standing close to the tower of Lambeth Church, is very imposing as +seen from the road, and was built by Archbishop Cardinal Moreton in +1490. In the Middle Ages it was the custom to give a farthing loaf +twice a week to the poor of London at this gateway, and as many as +4,000 were accustomed to partake of the archiepiscopal gift. Within +the gateway is the outer courtyard of the palace, and at the further +end, towards the river Thames, rises the picturesque Lollard's tower, +built between 1434 and 1445 by that famous ecclesiastical statesman +Archbishop Chicheley, founder of All Souls' College, Oxford. The quaint +winding staircase, made of rough slabs of unplaned oak, is exactly +as it was in Chicheley's time. In this tower is the famous chamber, +entirely of oaken boards, called the Lollards' prison. It is 13 feet +long, 12 feet broad, and 8 feet high, and eight iron rings remain to +which prisoners were fastened. The door has a lock of wood, fastened +with pegs of wood, and may be a relic of the older palace of Archbishop +Sudbury. On the south side of the outer court stands the hall built by +Archbishop Juxon during the opening years of Charles II.'s reign, with +a fine timber roof, and Juxon's arms over the door leading into the +palace. This Jacobean hall is now used as the library, and contains +many precious manuscripts of priceless value, including the _Dictyes +and Sayings of the Philosophers_, translated by Lord Rivers, in which +is found a miniature illumination of the Earl presenting Caxton on his +knees to Edward IV., who is supported by Elizabeth Woodville and her +son Edward V. This manuscript contains the only known portrait of the +latter monarch. + +[Illustration: ST. JAMES'S PALACE, FROM PALL MALL AND FROM THE PARK.] + +An earlier hall had been built on the same site by Archbishop Boniface +in 1244. + +From the library we pass by a flight of stairs to the guard room, now +used as the dining hall. The chief feature is the excellent series of +oil portraits of the occupants of the primatial See of Canterbury, +beginning in the year 1504. The mere mention of the principal names +recalls prominent events in our national history. + +There is Warham painted by Holbein. He was also Lord Chancellor, and +the last of the mediæval episcopate. There is Cranmer, burnt at Oxford, +March 21, 1555. There is Cardinal Pole, the cousin and favourite of +Queen Mary. There is Matthew Parker, the friend of Queen Elizabeth, +well skilled in learning and a great collector of manuscripts, now for +the most part in the library of Corpus Christi College, Cambridge. +There is William Laud, painted by Van Dyck, the favourite Counsellor +and Adviser of Charles I. At the age of 71 he was beheaded by order of +the House of Commons--an act of vengeance, not of justice. There is +William Juxon, who stood by Charles I. on the scaffold, and heard the +ill-fated King utter his last word on earth, "Remember." But we cannot +even briefly recount all the famous portraits to be found at Lambeth. +The above selection must suffice. + +The chapel, also, is a building of singular interest. Beneath is +an ancient crypt said to have been erected by Archbishop Herbert +Fitzwalter, while the chapel itself was built by Archbishop Boniface +of Savoy between 1249 and 1270. The lancet windows are elegant, and +were filled with stained glass by Archbishop Laud, all of which was +duly broken to pieces during the Commonwealth. The supposed Popish +character of this glass was made an article of impeachment against Laud +at the trial at which he was sentenced to death. Here the majority of +the archbishops have been consecrated since the reign of King Henry +III. Archbishop Parker was both consecrated and also buried in the +chapel, but his tomb was desecrated and his bones scattered by Scot +and Hardyng, who possessed the palace under Oliver Cromwell. On the +restoration they were re-interred by Sir William Dugdale. At the west +end is a beautiful Gothic confessional, high up on the wall, erected +by Archbishop Chicheley. Archbishop Laud presented the screen, and +Archbishop Tait restored the whole of this sacred edifice, which +measures 12 feet by 25 feet. Formerly the archbishops lived in great +state. Thus, Cranmer's household comprised a treasurer, comptroller, +steward, garnator, clerk of the kitchen, caterer, clerk of the spicery, +yeoman of the ewery, bakers, pantlers, yeoman of the horse, yeoman +ushers, besides numerous other less important officials. + +Cardinal Pole possessed a patent from Queen Mary, authorising a +household of 100 servants. The modern part of the palace was built by +Archbishop Howley in the Tudor style. He held the See from 1828 to +1848, and was the last prelate to maintain the archiepiscopal state of +the olden time. + + + + +ELIZABETHAN LONDON + +BY T. FAIRMAN ORDISH, F.S.A. + + +The leading feature of Elizabethan London was that it was a great port. +William Camden, writing in his _Britannia_, remarked that the Thames, +by its safe and deep channel, was able to entertain the greatest +ships in existence, daily bringing in so great riches from all parts +"that it striveth at this day with the Mart-townes of Christendome +for the second prise, and affoordeth a most sure and beautiful Roade +for shipping" (Holland's translation). Below the great bridge, one of +the wonders of Europe, we see this shipping crowding the river in the +maps and views of London belonging to the reign of Queen Elizabeth. +The Tower and the bridge were the city's defences against attack by +water. Near the Tower was the Custom House, where peaceful commerce +paid its dues; and between the Custom House and the bridge was the +great wharf of Billingsgate, where goods were landed for distribution. +Near the centre of the bridge was a drawbridge, which admitted vessels +to another great wharf, Queenhithe, at a point midway between London +Bridge and Blackfriars. Between the bridge and Queenhithe was the +Steelyard, the domain of the merchants of the Hanseatic League. Along +the river front were numerous other wharves, where barges and lighters +unloaded goods which they brought from the ships in the road, or from +the upper reaches of the Thames. For the river was the great highway +of London. It answered the needs of commerce, and it furnished the +chief means of transit. The passenger traffic of Elizabethan London was +carried on principally by means of rowing-boats. A passenger landed at +the point nearest to his destination, and then walked; or a servant +waited for him with a saddle-horse. The streets were too narrow for +coaches, except in two or three main arteries. + +The characteristic of present-day London, at which all foreigners +most marvel, is the amount of traffic in the streets. In Elizabethan +London this characteristic existed in the chief highway--the Thames. +The passenger-boats were generally described as "wherries," and they +were likened by Elizabethan travellers to the gondolas of Venice; for +instance, by Coryat, in his _Crudities_, who thought the playhouses +of Venice very beggarly compared with those of London, but admired +the gondoliers, because they were "altogether as swift as our rowers +about London." The maps of the period reveal the extraordinary number +of "stairs" for landing passengers along both banks of the river, +besides the numerous wharves for goods. John Stow, the author of the +_Survey of London_, published first in 1598, and again in a second +edition in 1603, describes the traffic on the river. "By the Thames," +he says, "all kinds of merchandise be easily conveyed to London, the +principal storehouse and staple of all commodities within this realm. +So that, omitting to speak of great ships and other vessels of burthen, +there pertaineth to the cities of London, Westminster, and borough of +Southwark, above the number, as is supposed, of 2,000 wherries and +other small boats, whereby 3,000 poor men at the least be set on work +and maintained." Many of these watermen were old sailors, who had +sailed and fought under Drake. The Armada deliverance was recalled +by Drake's ship, which lay in the river below the bridge. The voyage +of the Earl of Essex to Spain, the expeditions to Ireland and to the +Low Countries, formed the staple of the gossip of these old sailors +who found employment in the chief means of locomotion in Elizabethan +London. + +There was only the single bridge, but there were several ferries. +The principal ferry was from Blackfriars and the Fleet river to a +point opposite on the Surrey side, called Paris Garden stairs--nearly +in a line with the present Blackfriars Bridge. At Westminster was +another, from the Horseferry Road to a point a little west of Lambeth +Palace--almost in the line of the present Lambeth Bridge. The river was +fordable at low tide at this point; horses crossed here--whence the +name Horseferry--and possibly other cattle, when the tide was unusually +low. + +The sea is the home of piety. Coast towns, ports, and havens, reached +after voyages of peril, are invariably notable for their places of +worship, and for customs which speak touchingly--like the blessing +of fishermen's nets, for instance--of lives spent in uncertainty and +danger. Thus, the leading characteristic of Elizabethan London being +its association with the sea and its dependence on the river, we find +that its next most striking characteristic was the extraordinary +number of churches it contained. The great cathedral predominated more +pronouncedly than its modern successor. From the hill on which it was +based it reared its vast bulk; its great spire ascended the heavens, +and the multitude of church towers and spires and belfries throughout +the city seemed to follow it. The houses were small, the streets were +narrow; but to envisage the city from the river, or from the Surrey +side, was to have the eye led upwards from point to point to the summit +of St. Paul's. The dignity and piety of London were thus expressed, +in contradiction to human foibles and failings so conspicuous in +Elizabethan drama. The spire of St. Paul's was destroyed by lightning +early in the reign of Elizabeth; and the historian may see much +significance in the fact that it was not rebuilt, even in thanksgiving +and praise for the deliverance from the Great Armada. The piety of +London dwindled until it flamed forth anew in the time of the Puritan +revolt. + +The bridge was carried on nineteen arches. It had a defensive gate +at the Southwark end, and another gateway at the northern end. In +the centre was a beautiful chapel, dedicated to Thomas à Becket, and +known as St. Thomas of the Bridge. Houses were built on the bridge, +mostly shops with overhanging signs, as in the streets of the city. +Booksellers and haberdashers predominated, but other trades were +carried on also. After the chapel, the most conspicuous feature of the +bridge was "Nonesuch House," so called to express the wonder that it +was constructed in Holland entirely of wood, brought over the water +piece by piece, and put together on the bridge by dovetailing and pegs, +without the use of a single metal nail. Adjoining the northern gateway +was an engine for raising water by means of a great wheel operated by +the tide. Near the Southwark end were corn-mills, worked on the same +principle, below the last two arches of the bridge. The gateway at the +Southwark end, so well shown in Visscher's view of London, was finished +in 1579, and the traitors' heads, which formerly surmounted a tower +by the drawbridge, were transferred to it. Travellers from the south +received this grim salutation as they approached the bridge, which +led into the city; and when they glanced across the river, the Tower +frowned upon them, and the Traitors' Gateway, like teeth in an open +mouth, deepened the effect of warning and menace. + +But these terrors loomed darkling in the background for the most +part. They belonged rather to the time when the sovereign's palaces +at Westminster and at the Tower seemed to hold London in a grip. The +palace at Westminster now languished in desuetude; the Tower was a +State prison, and--with some ironical intent, perhaps--also the abode +of the royal beasts, lions, tigers, leopards, and other captives. +The Queen passed in her royal barge down the river with ceremonious +pageantry from her palace of Whitehall; the drawbridge raised, the +floating court passed the Tower as with lofty indifference on its way +to "Placentia," Her Majesty's palace at Greenwich. Out of the silence +of history a record speaks like a voice, and tells us that here, in +1594, Shakespeare and his fellows performed at least two comedies or +interludes before Her Majesty, and we know even the amounts that were +paid them for their services. + +[Illustration: PLAN OF LONDON IN THE TIME OF QUEEN ELIZABETH (1563).] + +In the _Survey_ of John Stow we have three separable elements: the +archæology and history of London, Stow's youthful recollections of +London in the time of Henry the Eighth, and Stow's description of +the great change which came over London after the dissolution of the +religious houses, and continued in process throughout his lifetime. +The mediæval conditions were not remote. He could remember when London +was clearly defined by the wall, like a girdle, of which the Tower was +the knot. No heroic change had befallen; the wall had not been cast +down into its accompanying fosse to form a ring-street, as was done +when Vienna was transformed from the mediæval state. London had simply +filled up the ditch with its refuse; its buildings had simply swarmed +over the wall and across the dike; shapeless and haphazard suburbs had +grown up, till the surrounding villages became connected with the city. +Even more grievous, in the estimation of Stow, was the change which he +had witnessed within the city itself. The feudal lords had departed, +and built themselves mansions outside the city. The precincts of the +dissolved religious establishments had been converted into residential +quarters, and a large proportion of the old monastic gardens had been +built upon. The outlines of society had become blurred. Formerly, the +noble, the priest, and the citizen were the defined social strata. +Around each of these was grouped the rest of the social units in +positions of dependence. A new type of denizen had arisen, belonging to +none of the old categories--the typical Elizabethan Londoner. + +The outward aspect of Elizabethan London reflected this social change. +On the south of the city, along the line of Thames Street, the wall +had entirely disappeared. On the east and west it was in decay, and +was becoming absorbed in fresh buildings. Only on the north side of +the city, where it had been re-edified as late as 1474, did the wall +suggest its uses for defence. In the map of Agas, executed early in the +reign of Elizabeth, this portion of the wall, with its defensive towers +and bastions, appears singularly well preserved. Thus the condition of +the wall suggested the passing of the old and the coming of the new +order. The gates which formerly defended the city, where the chief +roadways pierced the wall, still remained as monuments, and they were +admirably adapted to the purpose of civic pageantry and ceremonial +shows. Indeed, the gateway on the Oxford road was rebuilt in 1586, and +called Newgate, "from the newness thereof," and it was the "fairest" +of all the gates of London. It is reckoned that this was the year that +Shakespeare came to London from Stratford-on-Avon; and the assumption +is generally allowed that he entered the city by Newgate, which +would be his direct road. A new gate, of an artistic and ornamental +character, set in the ancient wall, was a sign and a symbol of the new +conditions in London, of which Shakespeare himself was destined to +become the chief result. + + * * * * * + +With the characteristics of London as a great mart and port is included +the foreign elements in its population. In Lombard Street the merchants +of Lombardy from early mediæval times had performed the operations +of banking and foreign exchange; and around them were assembled the +English merchants of all qualities and degrees. Business was conducted +in the open street, and merchants merely adjourned into the adjoining +houses to seal their bonds and make their formal settlements. Henry +VIII. tried to induce the city to make use of the great building of +Leadenhall for this purpose; but the innovation was resisted, and +Lombard Street continued to be the burse of London till long after the +accession of Elizabeth. The name of Galley Key remained in Tower Street +ward to mark the spot on the river bank "where the galleys of Italy +and other parts did discharge their wines and merchandises brought to +this city." The men of the galleys lived as a colony by themselves +in Mincing Lane; the street leading to their purlieus was called, +indifferently, Galley Row and Petit Wales. Here was a great house, the +official territorium of the Principality. The original of Shakespeare's +"Fluellen" may very possibly have been a denizen of this quarter. + +Above the bridge, in Thames Street, was the territorium of the Hanse +merchants, alluded to by Stow as "the merchants of Almaine," and by +Camden as "the Easterlings or Dutch merchants of the Steelyard." +Their position in the city was one of great importance: the export +trade of the country in woollen goods was chiefly in their hands, +and they had their own Guildhall in Upper Thames Street, called the +_Gilda Teutonicorum_. The special privileges accorded to this foreign +commercial community carried the obligation to maintain Bishopsgate in +repair, and "to defend it at all times of danger and extremity." When +the house of the Augustine Friars, Old Broad Street, was dissolved, +and its extensive gardens became cut up and built upon, the Dutch +colony settled there in residence, and the church of Austin Friars was +specially assigned to them by Edward VI. Towards the end of the reign +of Elizabeth the privileges of the Hanse merchants were revoked, and +their guildhall was confiscated to the use of the navy. But the Dutch +element continued as a part of the commercial life of the city, and the +church of Austin Friars is still the "church of the Dutch nation in +London." + +West of the Steelyard was the Vintry. Here the merchants of Bordeaux +had been licensed to build their warehouses of stone, at the rear of a +great wharf, on which were erected cranes for unloading the lighters +and other boats which brought the casks from the ships below bridge. +The trade of these foreign merchants gave the name of Vintry Ward to +one of the divisions of the city. In Bishopsgate Ward, near the church +of St. Botolph, was a French colony, their purlieus forming a quadrant, +called Petty France. + +Elizabethan London was more cosmopolitan than many European capitals. +In Lombard Street the merchants of Germany, France, and Italy were +conspicuously differentiated by the varieties of costume. On the site +of the present Royal Exchange, Sir Thomas Gresham laid the first +stone of his great Bourse in 1566; the design was in imitation of the +Bourse at Antwerp; the materials of its construction were imported +from Flanders; the architect and builder was a Fleming, named Henryke. +The opening of this building by Queen Elizabeth in state in January, +1571, when Her Majesty commanded it to be proclaimed by herald and +trumpet that the Bourse should be called The Royal Exchange from that +time henceforth, is a familiar story, because it is, in fact, one of +the most striking and significant events in the history of London. The +trumpet of that herald, on January 23rd, 1571, announced a new era. + +The building was a quadrangle, enclosing an open space. The sides +formed a cloister or sheltered walk; above this was a corridor, or +walk, called "the pawn," with stalls or shops, like the Burlington +Arcade of the present day; above this again was a tier of rooms. The +great bell-tower stood on the Cornhill front; the bell was rung at +noon and at six in the evening. On the north side, looking towards +St. Margaret's, Lothbury, was a tall Corinthian column. Both tower +and column were surmounted by a grasshopper--the Gresham crest. The +inscription on the façade of the building was in French, German, and +Italian. The motley scene of Lombard Street had been transferred to the +Royal Exchange. The merchants of Amsterdam, of Antwerp, of Hamburg, +of Paris, of Bordeaux, of Venice and Vienna, distinguishable to the +eye by the dress of the nations they represented, and to the ear by +the differences of language, conducted their exchanges with English +merchants, and with each other, in this replica of the Bourse of +Antwerp, the rialto of Elizabethan London.[1] + +Cheapside was called West Cheap in Elizabethan London, in +contradistinction to East Cheap, famous for ever as the scene of the +humours of "Dame Quickly" and "Falstaff." The change in West Cheap +since the mediæval period was chiefly at the eastern end, on the +north side. Here a large space opposite the church of St. Mary-le-Bow +was formerly kept clear of building, although booths and stalls +for market purposes occupied the ground temporarily. The space was +otherwise reserved for the mediæval jousts, tournaments, and other +civic pageantry. The site of Mercers' Hall was occupied by the _Militia +Hospitalis_, called, after Thomas à Becket, St. Thomas of Acon. After +the Dissolution this establishment was granted by Henry to the Mercers' +Company, who adapted the existing buildings to the purposes of their +hall, one of the principal features of Cheap in Elizabethan times. The +district eastward of Mercers' Hall had become filled up with building, +and the making of Cheap as a thoroughfare was now complete. The +original road westward was from the top of New Fish Street, by East +Cheap, Candlewick or Cannon Street, past London Stone (probably the +Roman _Milliarium_), along Budge Row and Watling Street, to the site of +St. Paul's, where it is conjectured a temple of Diana stood in Roman +times. But Cheap, or West Cheap, was the chief traffic way westward +in Elizabethan London; it was filled with shops and warehouses, a +thriving business centre, the pride of the city. The name of "Cheap" +was derived from the market, and several of the streets leading into +it yet bear names which in Elizabethan times were descriptive of the +trades there carried on. Thus the Poultry was the poulterers' market; +ironmongers had their shops in Ironmonger Lane, as formerly they had +their stalls in the same area; in Milk Street were the dairies; and +towards the west end of Cheap was Bread Street, the market of the +bakers, and Friday Street, where fishmongers predominated. Lying +between these two streets, with frontages in both, was the Mermaid +Tavern, the chief resort of "the breed of excellent and choice wits," +included by Camden among the glories of Elizabethan London. Stow does +not refer to the Mermaid by name, but possibly he had it in mind when +he wrote the following passage: "Bread Street, so called of bread sold +there, as I said, is now wholly inhabited by rich merchants; and divers +fair inns be there, for good receipt of carriers and other travellers +to the city." The trades kept themselves in their special localities, +although they did not always give the name to the street they occupied. +Thus, to return to the eastern end of Cheap, there was Bucklersbury, +where the pepperers or grocers were located, having given up their +former quarters in Sopars' Lane to the cordwainers and curriers. With +the grocers were mingled apothecaries and herbalists; and hence the +protest of Falstaff, in the _Merry Wives of Windsor_, that he was not +"like a many of these lisping hawthorn-buds, that come like women +in men's apparel, and smell like Bucklesbury in simple time." In +the midst of Cheap, at a point between Mercers' Hall and Old Jewry, +opposite the end of Bucklersbury, was the water conduit--in the words +of Stow, "The great conduit of sweet water, conveyed by pipes of lead +underground from Paddington for the service of this city, castellated +with stone, and cisterned in lead." Around the conduit stood the great +jars used by the water-carriers to convey the water to the houses. The +water-carrier, as a type of Elizabethan London, is preserved by Ben +Jonson in the character of Cob in _Every Man in his Humour_. Going +westward from the Conduit, another object stood out in the roadway--the +Standard, a tall pillar at which the public executions of the city +jurisdiction took place. Still further west, in the midst of Cheap, +stood the Eleanor Cross, one of the most beautiful monuments in London +at this time. + +The Guildhall stood where it stands to-day, accessible from Cheap by +Ironmonger Lane and St. Lawrence Lane. Only the walls and the crypt +of the original building remain; but the features of this great civic +establishment, as well as its sumptuous character and beautiful +adornments, were practically the same in the days of Gresham as at +the present time. Stow describes the stately porch entering the great +hall, the paving of Purbeck marble, the coloured glass windows, and, +alas! the library which had been "borrowed" by the Protector Somerset +in the preceding reign. Near the Guildhall was the church of St. +Mary Aldermanbury, the predecessor of the existing edifice. In this +parish dwelt Hemmings and Condell, "fellows" of Shakespeare--that is +to say, players of his company, whom he remembered in his will. These +men conferred a benefit on all future ages by collecting the poet's +plays, seven years after his death, and publishing them in that folio +edition which is one of the most treasured volumes in the world. In +the churchyard a monument to their memory was erected in 1896. It is +surmounted by a bust of the poet, who looks forth serenely greeting the +passer-by from beneath the shade of trees in this quiet old churchyard +in modern London. + +To return to Cheap, it remains to speak of a feature which attracted +Queen Elizabeth, and was, indeed, one of the marvels of London. Here +are the _ipsissima verba_ of Stow's contemporary description: + + "Next to be noted, the most beautiful frame of fair houses + and shops that be within the walls of London, or elsewhere in + England, commonly called Goldsmiths' Row, betwixt Bread Street + end and the cross in Cheap ... the same was built by Thomas + Wood, goldsmith, one of the sheriffs of London, in the year + 1491. It containeth in number ten fair dwelling-houses and + fourteen shops, all in one frame, uniformly built four stories + high, beautified towards the street with the Goldsmiths' arms + and the likeness of woodmen, in memory of his name, riding on + monstrous beasts, all which is cast in lead, richly painted + over and gilt. These he gave to the goldsmiths, with stocks of + money, to be lent to young men having those shops. This said + front was again new painted and gilt over in the year 1594; + Sir Richard Martin being then mayor, and keeping his mayoralty + in one of them." + +Beyond Goldsmiths' Row was the old Change; the name and the street both +still exist. Beyond old Change were seven shops; then St. Augustine's +Gate, leading into St. Paul's Churchyard; and then came Paternoster +Row. Between Paternoster Row and Newgate Street stood the Church of +St. Michael-le-Querne, stretching out into the middle of Cheap, where +the statue of Sir Robert Peel now stands. Stretching out from the east +end of the church, still further into the street, was a water conduit, +which supplied all the neighbourhood hereabout, called "The Little +Conduit," not because it was little, but to distinguish it from the +great conduit at the other end of Cheap. + + * * * * * + +We are concerned in this place not with the history of old St. +Paul's, nor with the technique of its architecture, but with the +great cathedral as a religious and social institution, the centre of +Elizabethan London. Here the streams of life were gathered, and hence +they radiated. It was the official place of worship of the Corporation; +the merchants of the city followed. The monarch on special occasions +attended the services; the nobility followed the royal example. The +typical Elizabethan made the middle aisle his promenade, where he +displayed the finery of his attire and the elegance of his deportment. +The satirists found a grand opportunity in the humours of Paul's +Walk; but the effect of the cathedral is not to be derived from such +allusions in the literature of the time. All classes were attracted by +the beautiful organ and the anthems so exquisitely sung by the choir. +The impressive size and noble proportions of the building, the soaring +height of the nave, the mystery of the open tower, where the ascending +vision became lost in gathering obscurity, and where the chords from +the organ died away; these spiritual associations, these appeals to the +imagination, were uplifting influences so powerful that the vanities of +Paul's Walk were negligible by comparison. As with the gargoyle on the +outer walls, the prevailing effect was so sublime, that it was merely +heightened by this element of the grotesque.[2] + +The cathedral stood in the midst of a churchyard. In the mediæval +period this was enclosed by a wall. In the reign of Elizabeth the +wall still existed, but, as Stow observes, "Now on both sides, to +wit, within and without, it be hidden with dwelling-houses." In 1561 +the great steeple was struck by lightning and destroyed by fire, but +the tower from which the spire arose remained. The tower was 260 feet +high, and the height of the spire was the same, so that the pinnacle +was 520 feet from the base.[3] Surmounting the pinnacle, in this +earlier portion of Elizabeth's reign, was a weathercock, an object of +curiosity to which Stow devotes a minute description. In the midst of +the churchyard stood Paul's Cross--"a pulpit cross of timber, mounted +upon steps of stone and covered with lead, in which are sermons +preached every Sunday in the forenoon." Many of the monastic features +of the establishment had disappeared; others were transformed and +adapted to other uses. The great central fabric remained, and the +school flourished--"Paul's School," in the east part of the churchyard, +endowed by Dean Colet in 1512, and rebuilt in the later years of +Elizabeth, where one hundred and fifty-three poor men's children were +given a free education under a master, an usher, and a chaplain. + + * * * * * + +Newgate Street, Cheapside, Cornhill, Leadenhall, and Aldgate formed (as +they do still) nearly a straight line, east and west. From this line to +the wall on the north, in Plantagenet and early Tudor times, the city +was largely composed of open spaces: chiefly the domains of religious +houses; while south of the dividing line to the river the ground was +thickly built over. After the Dissolution the transformation of the +northern area began. + +Considerable building took place in the reign of Edward VI.; but at +the time of Elizabeth's accession the generally open character of this +area, as compared with the more southerly part of the city, still +subsisted. The increase of population, however, due very largely to +people who flocked to London from all parts of the country, led to +rapid building, which produced the Queen's famous proclamation to +stay its further progress. To evade the ordinance, and to meet the +ever-increasing demand, large houses were converted into tenements, +and a vast number of people were thus accommodated who lived chiefly +out-of-doors and took their meals in the taverns, inns, and ordinaries +which abounded in all parts of the city. The pressure of demand +continued, and the open spaces became gradually built over. The Queen +and her government, aghast at the incessant tide of increase, in +terror of the plague, recognised the futility of further prohibition, +and avoided communication with the city as much as possible. At the +slightest hint of plague Her Majesty would start off on one of her +Progresses, or betake herself to Richmond, to Hampton Court, or to +Greenwich. + +Some of these transformations of ancient monastic purlieus may be +briefly instanced. Within Newgate was the house and precinct of the +Grey Friars. After the Dissolution the whole precinct was presented by +Henry to the citizens of London, and here Edward VI. founded the school +for poor fatherless children, which became famous as Christ's Hospital, +"the Bluecoat school." + +Let a short passage from Stow describe this change from the old order +to the new: + + "In the year 1552 began the repairing of the Greyfriars house + for the poor fatherless children; and in the month of November + the children were taken into the same, to the number of almost + four hundred. On Christmas Day, in the afternoon, while the + Lord Mayor and Aldermen rode to Paules, the children of + Christ's Hospital stood from St. Lawrence Lane end in Cheape + towards Paules, all in one livery of russet cotton, three + hundred and forty in number; and in Easter next, they were in + blue at the Spittle, and so have continued ever since." + +The Greyfriars or Bluecoat school was one of the largest buildings in +London. Its demesne extended to the city wall, in which there was a +gate communicating with the grounds of St. Bartholomew's Hospital, the +famous foundation of Rahere. The wall ran northward from the New Gate, +the ground between the school and the wall on that side had been built +over. There was a continuous line of building along Newgate Street to +St. Martin's le Grand. The shambles or meat market occupied the centre +of the street, called St. Nicholas Shambles, from a church which had +been demolished since the Reformation. + +From Newgate Street and the top of Cheapside to St. Anne's Lane was +formerly the territory of the Collegiate Church and Sanctuary of St. +Martin's le Grand. The college was dismantled after the edict of +dissolution, but the sanctuary remained. + +Some of the collegiate buildings had been converted into tenements, +and other houses had been erected. These were occupied by "strangers +born"--_i.e._, denizens who were not born Londoners--although within +the walls the civic jurisdiction did not extend over this territory. +Certain trades were carried on here outside the regulated industry of +the city--_e.g._, tailoring and lace-making. The district became one +of the resorts of the Elizabethan ruffler; and under the ægis of the +ancient right of sanctuary a kind of Alsatia came into existence, the +scene of many exciting episodes when debtors and fugitives from justice +evaded their pursuers, and succeeded in reaching these precincts. + +In Broad Street the ancient glory of the Augustine Friars was still +a memory, and much of their spacious domain had been divided into +gardens. The beautiful church remained, but the spire was becoming +ruinous from neglect. Stow described the gardens, the gates of the +precinct, and the great house which had been built here by William +Paulet, first Marquis of Winchester, Lord Treasurer of England, "in +place of Augustine friar's house, cloister, gardens, etc." There is an +admirable irony in the recital of Stow at this point: + + "The friars church he pulled not down, but the west end + thereof, inclosed from the steeple and choir, was in the + year 1550 granted to the Dutch nation in London, to be their + preaching place: the other part--namely, the steeple, choir, + and side aisles to the choir adjoining--he reserved to + household uses, as for stowage of corn, coal and other things; + his son and heir, Marquis of Winchester, sold the monuments of + noblemen there buried in great number, the paving stone and + whatsoever (which cost many thousands) for one hundred pounds, + and in place thereof made fair stabling for horses. He caused + the lead to be taken from the roofs, and laid tile in place + thereof; which exchange proved not so profitable as he looked + for, but rather to his disadvantage." + +Between Broad Street and Bishopsgate Street the space was chiefly +composed of gardens. One of the houses fronting Bishopsgate Street +was the residence of Sir Thomas Gresham (perhaps his house in Lombard +Street was reserved for business purposes). + +On the opposite side of Bishopsgate Street was Crosby Hall and the +precinct of the dissolved nunnery of St. Helen, extending towards St. +Mary Axe and the church of St. Andrew Undershaft. At the further end of +St. Mary Axe was the "Papye," a building which had been a hospital for +poor priests before the Reformation. In the year 1598 Shakespeare was +living in the St. Helen's precinct, within the shadow of Crosby Hall, +and John Stow, in his home near the church of St. Andrew Undershaft, +had just corrected the proofs of the first edition of his _Survey of +London_. Stow tells us about Gresham's House and about Crosby Hall. He +tells us that Sir Francis Walsingham, the Secretary of State, resided +at the Papye. He describes the church of St. Andrew Undershaft, where +his own monument may be seen at the present day; he describes, too, the +ancient church of the nunnery of St. Helen, in which a memorial window +now commemorates Shakespeare. But he failed to mention the fact, which +has since been recovered from the subsidy-roll in the Record Office, +that William Shakespeare was a denizen of the precinct in 1598. Had +Shakespeare built a water conduit in the neighbourhood, or endowed an +almshouse, he might have been celebrated in the pages of John Stow. + +They were neighbours, and may have been acquainted. The district had +been familiar to Stow from childhood, and he may have entertained the +poet as he entertains us in his _Survey_ with recollections of the +changes he had witnessed in his long lifetime. Describing Tower Hill, +he recalls the abbey of nuns of the order of St. Clare, called the +Minories, and after giving the facts of its history, proceeds: + + "In place of this house of nuns is now built divers fair and + large storehouses for armour and habiliments of war, with + divers workhouses serving to the same purpose: there is a + small parish church for inhabitants of the close, called St. + Trinities. Near adjoining to this abbey, on the south side + thereof, was sometime a farm belonging to the said nunnery; + at the which farm I, myself, in my youth, have fetched many a + half-penny worth of milk, and never had less than three ale + pints for a half-penny in the summer, nor less than one ale + quart for a half-penny in the winter, always hot from the + kine, as the same was milked and strained. One Trolop, and + afterwards Goodman, were the farmers there, and had thirty + or forty kine to the pail. Goodman's son being heir to his + father's purchase, let out the ground, first for grazing of + horses, and then for garden-plots, and lived like a gentleman + thereby." + +Here we have the source of the name Goodman's Fields, a point of some +interest for us; but how vastly more interesting to have rambled with +Stow in Elizabethan London, listening to such stories of the old order +which had passed, giving place to the new! + +We have strayed outside the wall, but not far. This road between +Aldgate and the Postern Gate by the Tower, running parallel with the +wall, is called the Minories, after the nunnery. Setting our faces +towards Aldgate, to retrace our steps, we have the store-houses for +armour and habiliments of war on our right; the wide ditch on our left +has been filled up, and partly enclosed for cultivation. There are +trees, and cows browsing, although the farm which Stow remembered no +longer existed. Before us, just outside Aldgate, is the church of St. +Buttolph, with its massive tower, standing in a spacious churchyard. +Owing to the extensive building and development which had taken +place outside the wall since the Reformation, it had been necessary +to construct lofts and galleries in this church to accommodate the +parishioners. At Aldgate the line of the wall turns westward towards +Bishopsgate. Parallel to it a road has been made along the bank of the +ditch, and leads into Bishopsgate Street. This is Houndsditch. The +houses stand thickly along one side of the way looking towards the +wall; the ditch has been filled up, and the wide surface is used for +cattle pens or milking stalls. + +We will not go along Houndsditch, but turning sharply to the left from +St. Buttolph's we pass through Aldgate. In doing so we immediately +find ourselves in the midst of the remains of the great priory of Holy +Trinity. The road leads southward into Fenchurch Street, branching off +on the west into Leadenhall Street. At the junction of these streets +stood the hospitium of the priory. Between Leadenhall Street and the +city wall, from Aldgate nearly up to St. Andrew Undershaft, lies the +ground-plan of the establishment of the Canons Regular, known as +Christchurch, or the priory of Holy Trinity, the grandest of all the +monastic institutions in Middlesex except Westminster. The heads of the +establishment were aldermen of the City of London, representing the +Portsoken Ward. + + "These priors have sitten and ridden amongst the aldermen of + London, in livery like unto them, saving that his habit was + in shape of a spiritual person, as I, myself, have seen in my + childhood; at which time the prior kept a most bountiful house + of meat and drink, both for rich and poor, as well within + the house as at the gates, to all comers, according to their + estates" (Stow). + +In 1531 the King took possession of Christchurch; the canons were +sent to other houses of the same order--St. Bartholomew the Great, +Smithfield; St. Mary Overies, Southwark; and St. Mary Spital--"and the +priory, with the appurtenances, King Henry gave to Sir Thomas Audley, +newly knighted, and after made Lord Chancellor" (Stow). So extensive +and so solid was the mass of building that Audley was at a loss to get +the space cleared for the new house he wished to build here. He offered +the great church of the priory to any one who would take it down and +cart away the materials. But as this offer met with no response, Audley +had to undertake the destruction himself. Stow could remember how the +workmen employed on this work, "with great labour, beginning at the +top"--the tower had pinnacles at each corner like the towers at St. +Saviour's and St. Sepulchre's--"loosed stone from stone, and threw +them down, whereby the most part of them were broken, and few remained +whole; and those were sold very cheap, for all the buildings then made +about the city were of brick and timber. At that time any man in the +city might have a cart-load of hard stone for paving brought to his +door for sixpence or sevenpence, with the carriage." Thus, in place of +the priory and its noble church, was built the residence of Thomas, +Lord Audley, and here he lived till his death in 1544. By marriage of +his only daughter and heiress, the house passed into the possession of +Thomas Howard, Duke of Norfolk, and was then called Duke's Place. + +Turning our backs upon Duke's Place and continuing a little further +along the way by which Stow used to fetch the milk from the farm at +the Minories to his father's house on Cornhill, we come to Leadenhall, +a great building which served as a public granary in ancient times, +and later as the chief market hall of the city. Leaving aside all the +particulars of its history which Stow gives, let us note what he tells +us from his own recollections: + + "The use of Leadenhall in my youth was thus:--In a part of the + north quadrant, on the east side of the north gate, were the + common beams for weighing of wool and other wares, as had been + accustomed; on the west side the gate were the scales to weigh + meal; the other three sides were reserved, for the most part, + to the making and resting of the pageants showed at Midsummer + in the watch; the remnant of the sides and quadrants was + employed for the stowage of wool sacks, but not closed up; the + lofts above were partly used by the painters in working for + the decking of pageants and other devices, for beautifying of + the watch and watchmen; the residue of the lofts were letten + out to merchants, the wool winders and packers therein to + wind and pack their wools. And thus much for Leadenhall may + suffice." + +The celebration of the Nativity of St. John and the civic pageantry +of Midsummer Eve belonged to the past; but Stow could remember the +assembly of the citizens arrayed in parti-coloured vestments of red +and white over their armour, their lances coloured and decorated +to distinguish the various wards they represented, their torches +borne in cressets on long poles. He could remember the processions +as they passed the bonfires which burned in the open spaces of the +city thoroughfares, and the throng of faces at the open windows and +casements as they appeared in the fitful glare. The pageantry had +disappeared with the suppression of the religious houses; but the +military organization was merely changed. The musters of the city +soldiers when they were reviewed by Queen Elizabeth at the coming of +the Armada was a recent memory. + +And so we turn into Bishopsgate Street again, and walk along to Crosby +Hall, the ancient palace of Richard III. In the middle of the roadway, +opposite the junction of Threadneedle Street with Bishopsgate Street, +stands a well, with a windlass, which probably existed here before the +conduit was made near the gateway in the time of Henry VIII. We enter +the precinct of St. Helen's: the wall of Crosby's great chamber is on +our right hand; before us is the church of the nunnery. The spirit +of the place is upon us. The barriers of time are removed; past and +present mingle in the current of our meditation. Lo! one bids us a +courteous farewell: it is Master Stow, our cicerone, who goes away +in the direction of St. Andrew Undershaft. The presence of another +influence continues to be felt. We enter the dim church, and shadows +of kneeling nuns seem to hover in the twilight of the northern nave. +Invisible fingers touch the organ-keys; the strains of evensong arise +from the choir. Our reverie is broken, an influence recedes from us. +But turning our eyes towards the painted picture of Shakespeare which +fills the memorial window in this ancient church, we join in the hymn +of praise and thanksgiving. + + * * * * * + +What chiefly impressed the Elizabethan was the newness of London, and +the rapidity with which its ancient features were being obliterated. +John Stow felt it incumbent upon him to make a record of the ancient +city before it was entirely swept away and forgotten. In what was new +to him we find a similar interest. + +Through Bishopsgate northward lies Shoreditch. The old church which +stood here in Elizabethan times has disappeared, but on the site +stands another church with the same dedication, to St. Leonard. The +sweet peal of the bells from the old belfry, so much appreciated by +the Elizabethans, is to be heard no more; but the muniment chest of +the modern church contains the old registers, in which we may read the +names of Tarleton, Queen Elizabeth's famous jester, of Burbage, and +the colony of players who lived in this parish, in the precinct of the +dissolved priory of Holywell. The road from Shoreditch to the precinct +still exists, known as Holywell Lane. + +The priory of St. John Baptist, called Holywell, a house of nuns, had +been rebuilt, in the earlier period of the reign of Henry VIII., by +Sir Thomas Lovel, K.G., of Lincoln's Inn. He endowed the priory with +fair lands, extended the buildings, and added a large chapel. He also +built considerably in Lincoln's Inn, including the fine old gateway in +Chancery Lane, which still stands as one of the few remaining memorials +of ancient London. Sir Thomas figures as one of the characters in +Shakespeare's play of _Henry VIII._ When he died he was duly buried in +the large chapel which he had added to Holywell Priory, in accordance +with his design; but a few years later, in 1539, the priory was +surrendered to the King and dissolved. Stow tells us that the church +was pulled down--it is doubtful if Lovel's chapel was spared--and +that many houses were built within the precinct "for the lodgings of +noblemen, of strangers born, and others." + +In the first edition of his _Survey_ Stow added:-- + + "And near thereunto are builded two publique houses for the + acting and shewe of comedies, tragedies and histories, for + recreation. Whereof one is called the Courtein, and the other + the Theatre; both standing on the south west side towards the + field." + +This passage was omitted from the second edition of the book published +in 1603; but the whole extensive history of these playhouses, which +was won from oblivion by the research of J. O. Halliwell-Phillipps, +proceeded from this brief testimony of Stow. + +Against the background of the ancient priory this precinct of +Holywell presented a perfect picture of the new conditions which +constituted what was distinctively Elizabethan London. It comprehended +the conditions of freedom required by the new life. Outside the +jurisdiction of the city, but within the protection of the justices of +Middlesex; lying open to the common fields of Finsbury, where archery +and other sports were daily practised; its two playhouses affording +varied entertainment in fencing matches, wrestling matches, and other +"sports, shows, and pastimes," besides stage-plays performed by the +various acting companies which visited them; this precinct of Holywell +presented a microcosm of Elizabethan London society. The attraction +of the plays brought visitors from all parts of the city. On the days +when dramatic performances were to be given flags were hoisted in the +morning over the playhouses; and after the early midday dinner the +stream of playgoers began to flow from the gates. On horseback and +on foot, over the fields from Cripplegate and Moorgate, or along the +road from Bishopsgate, came men and women, citizens and gallants, +visitors from the country, adventurers and pickpockets. All classes +and conditions mingled in the Theatre or the Curtain, in the "common +playhouses," as they were called, which only came into existence in +1576, after the players had been banished from the city. It was all +delightfully new and modern; the buildings were gorgeously decorated; +the apparel of the players was rich and dazzling; the music was +enthralling; the play was a magic dream. + +Some of the plays of Marlowe were performed at these Holywell theatres; +and in 1596 a play by the new poet, William Shakespeare, called _Romeo +and Juliet_, was produced at the Curtain, and caused a great sensation +in Elizabethan London. The famous balcony scene of this play was +cleverly adapted to the orchestra gallery above the stage. The stage +itself projected into the arena, and the "groundlings" stood around it. +Above were three tiers of seated galleries, and near the stage were +"lords' rooms," the precursors of the private boxes of a later time. + + * * * * * + +After the Theatre and Curtain had become a feature of Elizabethan +London at Shoreditch, other playhouses came into existence on the other +side of the river; first at Newington, outside the jurisdiction of +the city, in conditions corresponding to those of Shoreditch. For the +sports and pastimes of Finsbury Fields, in the neighbourhood of the +playhouses, there were the sports and pastimes of St. George's Fields +in the neighbourhood of the Newington Theatre. Playgoers from the city +took boat to Paris Garden stairs and witnessed the bear-baiting on +Bankside, or proceeded by road on horseback or on foot to St. George's +Fields and Newington; or they went thither over the bridge all the way +by road, walking or riding. The use of coaches was very limited, owing +to the narrow roads and imperfect paving of Elizabethan London. + +[Illustration: SHOOTING MATCH BY THE LONDON ARCHERS IN THE YEAR 1583.] + +At Newington the proprietor and manager of the playhouse was Philip +Henslowe, whose diary is the chief source of what information we have +concerning the earlier period of Elizabethan drama. He was a man of +business instinct, who conducted his dramatic enterprise on purely +commercial lines. In 1584 he secured the lease of a house and two +gardens on Bankside, and here, in the "liberty" of the Bishop of +Winchester, nearer to the city but outside the civic jurisdiction, he +erected his playhouse, called the Rose, in 1591. Henslowe thus brought +the drama nearer to the city than it had been since the edict of 1575 +abolished the common stages which until then had been set up in inn +yards or other convenient places in the city. The flag of the playhouse +could be seen across the river; and from all points came the tide +of playgoers, whose custom was a harvest to Henslowe and the Thames +watermen. + +Midway between these two points of theatrical attraction--Holywell, +Shoreditch on the north, and Newington and Bankside on the +south--Shakespeare lodged in the precinct of St. Helen's, Bishopsgate. +The company of players with whom he had become finally associated was +that of the Lord Chamberlain. They derived their profits from three +sources--from performances at court, from theatrical tours, and from +performances at the Theatre and the Curtain. The Theatre was the +property of the family of James Burbage, who had built it in 1576--his +son Richard Burbage, the famous actor, and others. The interest of the +proprietors may have suffered from Henslowe's enterprise in setting +up a playhouse on Bankside; and they were in dispute with the ground +landlord of their playhouse in regard to the renewal of their lease. +In these circumstances the Burbages, with the co-operation of other +members of the company, secured a site in the Winchester Liberty on +Bankside, not far from the Rose but nearer the Bridge. They then took +down their building in Holywell, vacated the land, and re-erected the +playhouse on the other side of the river. Those who participated in +this enterprise became "sharers," or partners, in the new playhouse. +Shakespeare was one of these, and the name by which it was called--the +Globe--was symbolical of the genius which reached its maturity in +plays presented in this theatre during the closing years of the reign +of Elizabeth and the first decade of the reign of her successor. "Totus +mundus agit histrionem" was the inscription over the portal of the +Globe. "All the world's a stage," said Shakespeare's Jaques in _As You +Like It_. The life of Elizabethan London found its ultimate expression +in that playhouse, which became celebrated then as "the glory of the +Bank," and now is famous in all parts of the world where the glory of +English literature is cherished. + + * * * * * + +There were many reminiscences of mediæval times on the Surrey side. At +Bermondsey were to be seen the extensive remains of the great abbey +of St. Saviour. After the Dissolution its name became transferred to +the church near the end of London Bridge, formerly known as St. Mary +Overies, the splendid fane which in our time has worthily become the +cathedral of Southwark. Between this church and the church of St. +George were many inns, among them the Tabard, where travellers to and +from Canterbury and Dover, or Winchester and Southampton, introduced +an element of novelty, change, and bustle; where plays were performed +in the inn yards before the playhouses were built on Bankside. At the +end of Bankside, looking towards the church of St. Saviour, stood +Winchester House, the London residence of the Bishop of Winchester +since the twelfth century. Here Cardinal Beaufort and Stephen Gardiner, +Bishop of Winchester, had lived in great state. The site, including +the park, which extended parallel with the river as far as Paris +Garden, was formerly the property of the priory of Bermondsey. This +area was under the separate jurisdiction of the Bishops of Winchester, +and was called their "Liberty." Here, in the early years of Queen +Elizabeth, were two amphitheatres--one for bull-baiting, the other for +bear-baiting. There were also ponds for fish, called the Pike Ponds.[4] +The great Camden records an anecdote of these ponds or stews, "which +are here to feed Pikes and Tenches fat, and to scour them from the +strong and muddy fennish taste." All classes delighted in the cruel +sport of bear-baiting on the Bankside: ambassadors and distinguished +foreigners were always conducted to these performances; on special +occasions the Queen had them at the palace. + +In 1583 one of the amphitheatres fell down, and when re-erected it was +built on the model of the playhouses.[5] It then became known as the +Bear Garden; the bull-baiting amphitheatre dropped out of existence; +perhaps it was reconstructed by Henslowe as his Rose theatre. The point +is not of much importance, except as regards the evolution of the +playhouse. + +The second playhouse built on the Surrey side after the Rose was the +Swan, opened in 1596. This was erected on a site in the manor of Paris +Garden, separated only by a road from the Liberty of Winchester. The +playhouse was in a line with the landing-stairs, opposite Blackfriars. + +After the Globe playhouse was built in 1599, the other +playhouses--Henslowe's Rose and Langley's Swan--ceased to flourish. +Here the outward facts corresponded with the inward: a lovely flower +had opened into bloom on the Bankside; what was unnecessary to its +support drooped earthward like a sheath. + + * * * * * + +Opposite Paris Garden, across the river, was Blackfriars; and here the +change from the ancient order to what was distinctively Elizabethan +London was most manifest. The ancient monastery had existed here from +1276, when the Dominican or Black Friars moved hither from Holborn, +until 1538, when the establishment was surrendered to King Henry VIII. +It possessed a magnificent church, a vast palatial hall, and cloisters. +Edward VI. had granted the whole precinct, with its buildings, to Sir +Thomas Cawarden, the Master of the Revels. It became an aristocratic +residential quarter; and in the earlier period of Queen Elizabeth's +reign plays were performed here, probably in the ancient hall of the +monastery, by the children of Her Majesty's chapel and the choir-boys +of St. Paul's. At a later period--viz., in 1596--James Burbage, +who built the theatre in Shoreditch, built a new playhouse in the +precinct, or more probably adapted an existing building--the hall or +part of the church--to serve the purpose of dramatic representation. +This playhouse, consequently, was not open to the weather at the top +like the common playhouses, and it was distinguished as the "private" +theatre at Blackfriars. + +The west wall of the precinct was built along the bank of the Fleet +river. Across the river opposite was the royal palace of Bridewell, +which Edward VI. had given to the city of London to be a workhouse for +the poor and a house of correction. This contiguity of a house for the +poor and the remains of a monastery suggests a reflection on the social +problem of Elizabethan London. + +Before the Reformation the religious houses were the agencies for +the relief of the poor, the sick, the afflicted. The unemployed were +assisted with lodging and food on their way as they journeyed in search +of a market for their labour, paying for their entertainment at the +religious houses by work either on the roads in the neighbourhood or +on the buildings or in the gardens and fields, according to their +trades and skill. It would seem that King Henry did not realise the +importance and extent of this feature in the social economy, because, +after he had suppressed the religious establishments, he complained +very reproachfully of the number of masterless men and rogues that +were everywhere to be found, especially about London. The good Bishop +Ridley, in an eloquent appeal addressed to William Cecil, represented +the poor and sick and starving in the streets of London in the person +of Christ, beseeching the king to succour the poor and suffering Christ +in the streets of London by bestowing his palace of Bridewell to be a +home for the homeless, the starving, and the sick, where erring ones +could be corrected and the good sustained. The good young monarch +granted the bishop's request, and Bridewell Hospital was thus founded +to do the social work in which Blackfriars monastery on the other side +of the Fleet river had formerly borne its share. But single efforts of +this kind were quite unequal to cope with the social difficulty; and +early in the reign of Elizabeth the first Poor Law was passed and a +system of relief came into operation. + +To meet the difficulty of unemployment, it was part of the policy of +Queen Elizabeth's Government to encourage new industries, whether due +to invention and discovery or to knowledge gained by visiting foreign +countries to learn new processes and manufactures; the inventor or +the introducer of the novelty was rewarded with a monopoly, and he +received a licence "to take up workmen" to be taught the methods of the +new industry. One of the manufactures which had been thus stimulated +was glass-making; and in the precinct of Blackfriars was a famous +glass-house or factory, a reminiscence of which still exists in the +name Glasshouse Yard. It has been shown how the crafts and trades of +Elizabethan London gravitated to separate areas: Blackfriars precinct +was famous as the abode of artists; one may hazard the guess that some +of the portraits of Elizabethan and Jacobean players in the Dulwich +Gallery may have been painted here. In the reign of Charles I. Vandyke +had his studio in Blackfriars, where the king paid him a visit to see +his pictures. The precinct was famous also as the abode of glovers; and +in the reigns of James and Charles it became a notorious stronghold +of Puritans. The existing name of Playhouse Yard, at the back of +_The Times_ newspaper office, affords some indication of the site of +the theatre; and the name Cloister Court is the sole remnant of the +cloisters of Blackfriars monastery. + +The eastern boundary of the precinct was St. Andrew's Hill, which still +exists. On the site of the present church of St. Andrew in the Wardrobe +stood a church of the same dedication in Elizabethan London. Stow wrote +of "the parish church of St. Andrew in the Wardrobe, a proper church, +but few monuments hath it." Near the church (the site being indicated +by the existing court called the Wardrobe) was a building of State, +which Stow calls "the King's Great Wardrobe." The Elizabethan use of +the Wardrobe is described by Stow thus: "In this house of late years is +lodged Sir John Fortescue, knight, master of the wardrobe, chancellor +and under-treasurer of the exchequer, and one of her majesty's most +honorable privy Council." + +Near the top of St. Andrew's Hill and within the precinct of +Blackfriars was a house which Shakespeare purchased in 1613. It is +described in the extant Deed of Conveyance as "now or late being in +the tenure or occupation of one William Ireland ... abutting upon a +street leading down to Puddle Wharf on the east part, right against the +Kinges Majesties Wardrobe." Curiously enough, the name of this occupier +survives in the existing Ireland Yard. + +[Illustration] + + +ENVOY + +The omissions in this imperfect sketch of Elizabethan London are many +and obvious. The design has been to show the tangible setting of a +jewel rather than the jewel itself; the outward conditions in which +the life of a new age was manifested. The background of destruction +has been inevitably emphasised; but in Elizabethan London historic +memorials existed on every hand. Nothing has been said of Baynard's +Castle, its Norman walls rising from the margin of the river to +the south of Blackfriars, or of St Bartholomew the Great, or the +Charterhouse, or St. Giles's, Cripplegate; although an account of them +would have completed the outer ring of our perambulation of the London +described by Stow. The whole region westward--Holborn, Fleet Street, +the Strand, and Westminster--has been left for another occasion. Here +and there, however, we have been able to glance at historic buildings +which had survived from earlier ages to witness the changes in London +after the Reformation. It was those changes that led to the making of +the playhouse and brought the conditions which enfolded the possibility +realised in Shakespeare. This has been the point of view in the +foregoing pages. A study of characteristics rather than a detailed +account has been offered for the consideration of the reader. + +FOOTNOTES: + +[1] Thomas Dekker, the pamphleteer and dramatist, describes the +Exchange as it was in 1607, when "at every turn a man is put in mind of +Babel, there is such a confusion of languages"; and as late as 1644 the +picturesque dresses of the foreign merchants appear in an engraving by +Hollar. + +[2] Camden speaks of "this so stately building," and in his terse +fashion conveys the effect of the interior: "The west part, as also the +Cross-yle, are spacious, high-built, and goodly to be seene by reason +of the huge Pillars and a right beautiful arched Roof of stone." + +[3] This is Stow's figure. Camden gives the measurement as 534 feet. + +[4] The name survives in Pike Gardens, Bankside. + +[5] See the "Bear-house" near the "Play-house" (_i.e._, the Rose) in +Norden's plan, 1593. + + + + +PEPYS'S LONDON + +BY HENRY B. WHEATLEY, F.S.A. + + +The growth of population in London was almost stationary for many +centuries; as, owing to the generally unhealthy condition of ancient +cities, the births seldom exceeded the deaths, and in the case of +frequent pestilences the deaths actually exceeded the births. Thus +during its early history the walls of London easily contained its +inhabitants, although at all times in its history London will be found +to have taken a higher rank for healthy sanitary conditions than most +of its continental contemporaries. In the later Middle Ages the city +overflowed its borders, and its liberties were recognized and marked by +Bars. Subsequently nothing was done to bring the further out-growths of +London proper within the fold, and in Tudor times we first hear of the +suburbs as disreputable quarters, a condemnation which was doubtless +just, as the inhabitants mostly consisted of those who were glad to +escape the restrictions of life within the city walls. + +The first great exodus westwards of the more aristocratic inhabitants +of London took place in the reigns of James I. and Charles I.--first to +Lincoln's Inn Fields and its neighbourhood, and then to Covent Garden, +and both these suburbs were laid out by Inigo Jones, the greatest +architect of beautiful street fronts that England has ever produced. It +is an eternal disgrace to Londoners that so many of his noble buildings +in Lincoln's Inn Fields have been destroyed. The period of construction +of these districts is marked by the names of Henrietta and King +Streets in Covent Garden, and Great Queen Street, Lincoln's Inn Fields. + +After the Restoration modern London was founded. During the +Commonwealth there had been a considerable stagnation in the movement +of the population, and when the Royalists returned to England from +abroad they found their family mansions in the city unfitted for their +habitation, and in consequence established themselves in what is now +the city of Westminster. Henry Jermyn, first Earl of St. Albans, began +to provide houses for some of them in St. James's Square, and buildings +in the district around were rapidly proceeded with. + +We have a faithful representation of London, as it appeared at the +end of the Commonwealth period, in Newcourt and Faithorne's valuable +Plan of London, dated 1658. A long growth of houses north of the +Thames is seen stretching from the Tower to the neighbourhood of +Westminster Abbey. Islington is found at the extreme north of the plan +unconnected with the streets of the town, Hoxton connected with the +city by Shoreditch, Bethnal Green almost alone, and Stepney at the +extreme north-east. South of the Thames there are a few streets close +to the river, and a small out-growth from London Bridge along the great +southern road containing Southwark and Bermondsey. There is little at +Lambeth but the Archbishop's Palace and the great marsh. + +On this plan we see what was the condition of the Haymarket and +Piccadilly before the Restoration. This was soon to be changed, for +between the years 1664 and 1668 were erected three great mansions in +the "Road to Reading" (now Piccadilly), viz., Clarendon House (where +Bond and Albemarle Streets now stand), Berkeley House (on the site +now occupied by Devonshire House), and Burlington House. Piccadilly +was the original name of the district after which Piccadilly Hall was +called. The latter place was situated at the north-east corner of the +Haymarket, nearly opposite to Panton Square, and close by Panton +Street, named after Colonel Thomas Panton, the notorious gamester, who +purchased Piccadilly Hall from Mrs. Baker, the widow of the original +owner. + +There is much to be said in favour of associating the name of some +well-known man with the London of his time, and thus showing how his +descriptions illustrate the chief historical events of his time, with +many of which he may have been connected. In the case of Samuel Pepys, +we can see with his eyes many of the incidents of the early years of +the Restoration period, and thus gain an insight into the inner life of +the times. Pepys lived through some of the greatest changes that have +passed over London, and in alluding to some of these we may quote his +remarks with advantage. His friend, John Evelyn, also refers to many of +the same events, and may also be quoted, more particularly as he was +specially engaged at different periods of his life in improving several +parts of London. + +We are truly fortunate in having two such admirable diarists at hand to +help us to a proper understanding of the course of events and of the +changes that took place in London during their long lives. + +When Pepys commenced his _Diary_ on January 1st, 1660, we find him +living in a small house in Axe Yard, Westminster, a place which derived +its name from a brewhouse on the west side of King Street, called +"The Axe." He was then clerk to Mr. (afterwards Sir George) Downing, +one of the Four Tellers of the Receipt of the Exchequer, from whom +Downing Street obtained its name. Pepys was in the receipt of £50 +a year, and his household was not a large one, for it consisted of +himself, his wife, and his servant Jane. He let the greater part of +the house, and his family lived in the garrets. About 1767 Axe Yard +was swept away, and Fludyer Street arose on its site, named after Sir +Samuel Fludyer, who was Lord Mayor in 1761. Nearly a century afterwards +(1864-65) this street also was swept away (with others) to make room +for the Government offices, consisting of the India, Foreign and +Colonial Offices, etc., so that all trace of Pepys's residence has now +completely passed away. + +Macaulay, in the famous third chapter of his History, where he gives +a brilliant picture of the state of England in 1685, and clearly +describes London under the later Stuarts, writes: "Each of the two +cities which made up the capital of England had its own centre of +attraction." We may take this sentence as our text, and try to +illustrate it by some notices of London life in the city and at the +Court end of town. The two extremes were equally familiar to Pepys, and +both were seen by him almost daily when he stepped into his boat by the +Tower and out of it again at Westminster. + +To take the court life first, let us begin with the entry of the +King into London on his birthday (May 29th, 1660). The enthusiastic +reception of Charles II. is a commonplace of history, and from the +Tower to Whitehall joy was exhibited by all that thronged the streets. +Evelyn was spectator of the scene, which he describes in his _Diary_:-- + + "May 29th. This day his Majestie Charles the Second came to + London after a sad and long exile and calamitous suffering + both of the King and Church, being 17 yeares. This was also + his birthday, and with a triumph of above 20,000 horse + and foote, brandishing their swords and shouting with + inexpressible joy; the wayes strew'd with flowers, the bells + ringing, the streetes hung with tapissry, fountaines running + with wine; the Maior, Aldermen and all the Companies in their + liveries, chaines of gold and banners; Lords and nobles + clad in cloth of silver, gold and velvet; the windowes and + balconies all set with ladies; trumpets, music and myriads + of people flocking, even so far as Rochester, so as they + were seven houres in passing the citty, even from 2 in y^e + afternoon till 9 at night. + + "I stood in the Strand and beheld it, and bless'd God. And + all this was done without one drop of blood shed, and by that + very army which rebell'd against him; but it was y^e Lord's + doing, for such a restauration was never mention'd in any + history antient or modern, since the returne of the Jews from + the Babylonish captivity; nor so joyfull a day and so bright + ever seene in this nation, this hapning when to expect or + effect it was past all human policy." + +One of the brilliant companies of young and comely men in white +doublets who took part in the procession was led by Simon Wadlow, +the vintner and host of the "Devil" tavern. This was the son of Ben +Jonson's Simon Wadlow, "Old Simon the King," who gave his name to +Squire Western's favourite song. From Rugge's curious MS. _Diurnal_ we +learn how the young women of London were not behind the young men in +the desire to join in the public rejoicings:-- + + "Divers maidens, in behalf of themselves and others, presented + a petition to the Lord Mayor of London, wherein they pray + his Lordship to grant them leave and liberty to meet his + Majesty on the day of his passing through the city; and if + their petition be granted that they will all be clad in white + waistcoats and crimson petticoats, and other ornaments of + triumph and rejoicing." + +Pepys was at sea at this time with Sir Edward Montagu, where the +sailors had their own rejoicings and fired off three guns, but he +enters in his _Diary_: "This day, it is thought, the King do enter the +city of London." + +Charles, immediately on his arrival in London, settled himself in the +Palace of Whitehall, which was his chief place of residence during the +whole of his reign, but although he was very much at home in it, he +felt keenly the inconveniences attending its situation by the river +side, which caused it frequently to be flooded by high tides. + +The King alludes to this trouble in one of his amusingly chatty +speeches to the House of Commons on March 1st, 1661-62, when +arrangements were being made for the entry of Katharine of Braganza +into London. He said:-- + + "The mention of my wife's arrival puts me in mind to desire + you to put that compliment upon her, that her entrance into + the town may be with more decency than the ways will now + suffer it to be; and for that purpose, I pray you would + quickly pass such laws as are before you, in order to the + amending those ways, and that she may not find Whitehall + surrounded by water." + +[Illustration: A VIEW OF LONDON AS IT APPEARED BEFORE THE GREAT FIRE. + +_From an old print._ + + 1 St. Paul's. + 2 St. Dunstan's. + 3 Temple. + 4 St. Bride's. + 5 St. Andrew's. + 6 Baynard's Castle. + 7 St. Sepulchre's. + 8 Bow Church. + 9 Guildhall. + 10 St. Michael's. + 11 St. Laurence, Poultney. + 12 Old Swan. + 13 London Bridge. + 14 St. Dunstan's East. + 15 Billingsgate. + 16 Custom House. + 17 Tower. + 18 Tower Wharf. + 19 St. Olave's. + 20 St. Saviour's. + 21 Winchester House. + 22 The Globe. + 23 The Bear Garden. + 24 Hampstead. + 25 Highgate. + 26 Hackney.] + +In the following year we read in Pepys's _Diary_ a piquant account +of the putting out of Lady Castlemaine's kitchen fire on a certain +occasion when Charles was engaged to sup with her:-- + + "October 13th, 1663. My Lady Castlemaine, I hear, is in as + great favour as ever, and the King supped with her the very + first night he came from Bath: and last night and the night + before supped with her; when there being a chine of beef + to roast, and the tide rising into their kitchen that it + could not be roasted there, and the cook telling her of it, + she answered, 'Zounds! she must set the house on fire, but + it should be roasted!' So it was carried to Mrs. Sarah's + husband's, and there it was roasted." + +The last sentence requires an explanation. Mrs. Sarah was Lord +Sandwich's housekeeper, and Pepys had found out in November, 1662, that +she had just been married, and that her husband was a cook. We are not +told his name or where he lived. + +Lord Dorset, in the famous song, "To all you ladies now on land," +specially alludes to the periodical inundations at the Palace:-- + + "The King, with wonder and surprise, + Will swear the seas grow bold; + Because the tides will higher rise + Than e'er they did of old; + But let him know it is our tears + Bring floods of grief to Whitehall stairs." + +Pepys was a constant visitor to Whitehall, and the Index to the _Diary_ +contains over three pages of references to his visits. He refers to +Henry VIII.'s Gallery, the Boarded Gallery, the Matted Gallery, the +Shield Gallery, and the Vane Room. Lilly, the astrologer, mentions the +Guard Room. The Adam and Eve Gallery was so called from a picture by +Mabuse, now at Hampton Court. In the Matted Gallery was a ceiling by +Holbein, and on a wall in the Privy Chamber a painting of Henry VII. +and Henry VIII., with their Queens, by the same artist, of which a copy +in small is preserved at Hampton Court. On another wall was a "Dance of +Death," also by Holbein, of which Douce has given a description; and in +the bedchamber of Charles II. a representation by Joseph Wright of the +King's birth, his right to his dominions, and miraculous preservation, +with the motto, _Terras Astræa revisit_. + +All these rooms, and most of the lodgings of the many residents, royal +and non-royal, were in the portion of the Palace situated on the river +side of the road, now known as Whitehall. This road was shut in by two +gates erected by Henry VIII. when he enlarged the borders of the Palace +after he had taken it from Wolsey. The one at the Westminster end was +called the King Street gate, and the other, at the north end, designed +by Holbein, was called by his name, and also Whitehall or Cock-pit gate. + +It is necessary to remember that Whitehall extended into St. James's +Park. The Tilt Yard, where many tournaments and pageants were held +in the reigns of Henry VIII., Elizabeth, and James I., fronted the +Banqueting House, and occupied what is now the Horse Guards' Parade. On +the south side of the Tilt Yard was the Cockpit, where Monk, Duke of +Albemarle, lived for a time. His name was given to a tavern in the Tilt +Yard ("The Monk's Head"). + +On the north side was Spring Gardens, otherwise the King's Garden, but +it subsequently became a place of public entertainment, and after the +Restoration it was styled the Old Spring Garden; then the ground was +built upon, and the entertainments removed to the New Spring Garden at +Lambeth, afterwards called Vauxhall. + +The Cockpit was originally used for cock-fighting, but it cannot be +definitely said when it ceased to be employed for this cruel sport. It +was for a considerable time used as a royal theatre, and Malone wrote:-- + + "Neither Elizabeth, nor James I., nor Charles I., I believe, + ever went to the public theatre, but they frequently ordered + plays to be performed at Court, which were represented in the + royal theatre called the Cockpit." + +Malone is probably incorrect in respect to Elizabeth's use of the +Cockpit, for certainly cock-fighting was practised here as late as +1607, as may be seen from the following entry in the State Papers:-- + + "Aug. 4th, 1607. Warrant to pay 100 marks per annum to William + Gateacre for breeding, feeding, etc., the King's game cocks + during the life of George Coliner, Cockmaster."[6] + +It is, of course, possible that the players and the cocks occupied the +place contemporaneously. + +The lodgings at the Cockpit were occupied by some well-known men. +Philip Herbert, Earl of Pembroke and Montgomery, saw Charles I. pass +from St. James's to the scaffold at the Banqueting House from one +of his windows, and he died in these apartments on January 23rd, +1650. Oliver Cromwell, when Lord-Lieutenant of Ireland, was given, +by order of Parliament, "the use of the lodgings called the Cockpit, +of the Spring Garden and St. James's House, and the command of St. +James's Park," and when Protector, and in possession of Whitehall +Palace, he still retained the Cockpit. When in 1657 he relaxed some +of the prohibitions against the Theatre, he used the Cockpit stage +occasionally for instrumental and vocal music. + +A little before the Restoration the apartments were assigned to General +Monk, and Charles II. confirmed the arrangement. Here he died, as Duke +of Albemarle, on January 3rd, 1670. In 1673 George Villiers, second +Duke of Buckingham, became a resident, and at the Revolution of 1688 +the Princess Anne was living here. + +There has been some confusion in respect to the references to the +Cockpit in Pepys's _Diary_, as two distinct theatres are referred to +under this name. The references before November, 1660, are to the +performances of the Duke's Company at the Cockpit in Drury Lane. +Here Pepys saw the "Loyal Subject," "Othello," "Wit without Money," +and "The Woman's Prize or Tamer Tamed." The subsequent passages in +which the Cockpit is referred to apply to the royal theatre attached +to Whitehall Palace. Here Pepys saw "The Cardinal," "Claricilla," +"Humorous Lieutenant," "Scornful Lady," and the "Valiant Cid." It is +useful to remember that the performances at Whitehall were in the +evening, and those at the public theatre in the afternoon. + +The buildings of the Old Whitefriars Palace by the river side were +irregular and unimposing outside, although they were handsome inside. +The grand scheme of Inigo Jones for rebuilding initiated by James I., +and occasionally entertained by Charles I. and II. and William III., +came to nothing, but the noble Banqueting House remains to show what +might have been. + +The Rev. Dr. Sheppard, in his valuable work on _The Old Palace of +Whitehall_ (1902), refers to Grinling Gibbons's statue of James II., +which for many years stood in the Privy Garden, and is one of the very +few good statues in London. He refers to the temporary removal of the +statue to the front of Gwydyr House, and writes: "Since the statue has +been removed to its present position an inscription (there was none +originally) has been placed on its stone pedestal. It runs as follows:-- + + JACOBUS SECUNDUS + DEI GRATIA ANGLIÆ SCOTIÆ FRANCIÆ + ET HIBERNIÆ REX. + FIDEI DEFENSOR. ANNO MDCLXXXVI." + +This, however, is a mistake, and the inscription runs as follows:-- + + JACOBUS SECUNDUS + DEI GRATIÆ + ANGLIÆ SCOTIÆ + FRANCIÆ ET + HIBERNIÆ + REX + FIDEI DEFENSOR + ANNO MDCLXXXVI + +in capitals, and without any stops. + +The present writer remembers well being taken as a little boy to +read the inscription and find out the error in the Latin. The statue +has since been removed to the front of the new buildings of the +Admiralty between the Horse Guards' Parade and Spring Gardens, a very +appropriate position for a Lord High Admiral. I am happy to see that +the inscription has not been altered, and the incorrect "Dei gratiæ" +appears as in my youth. + +James Duke of York, after the Restoration, occupied apartments in +St. James's Palace, and his Secretary of the Admiralty, Sir William +Coventry, had lodgings conveniently near him. The Duke sometimes moved +from one palace to the other, as his father, Charles I., had done +before him. Henrietta Maria took a fancy to the place, and most of +their children were born at St. James's, the Duke being one of these. + +James's changes of residence are recorded in Pepys's _Diary_ as +follows:-- + + "Jan. 23rd, 1664-65. Up and with Sir W. Batten and Sir W. Pen + to White Hall; but there finding the Duke gone to his lodgings + at St. James's for alltogether, his Duchesse being ready to + lie in, we to him and there did our usual business." + + "May 3rd, 1667. Up and with Sir J. Minnes, W. Batten and W. + Pen in the last man's coach to St. James's, and thence up to + the Duke of York's chamber, which as it is now fretted at + the top, and the chimney-piece made handsome, is one of the + noblest and best-proportioned rooms that ever, I think, I saw + in my life." + + "May 20th, 1668. Up and with Colonell Middleton in a new + coach he hath made him, very handsome, to White Hall, where + the Duke of York having removed his lodgings for this year + to St. James's we walked thither; and there find the Duke of + York coming to White Hall, and so back to the Council Chamber, + where the Committee of the Navy sat." + +In November, 1667, James fell ill of the smallpox in St. James's +Palace, when the gallery doors were locked up. On March 31st, 1671, +Anne Duchess of York, the daughter of Clarendon, died here. The +Princess Mary was married to William Prince of Orange in November, +1677, at eleven o'clock at night, in the Chapel Royal, and on July +28th, 1683, Princess Anne to Prince George of Denmark, when the pair +took up their residence at St. James's. + +When James came to the crown he went to live at Whitehall Palace, but +he frequently stayed at St. James's. On June 9th, 1688, Queen Mary of +Modena was taken to the latter place, and on the following day James +Francis Edward, afterwards known as "The Pretender," was born in the +Old Bedchamber. This room was situated at the east end of the south +front. It had three doors, one leading to a private staircase at the +head of the bed, and two windows opposite the bed.[7] + +The room was pulled down previous to the alterations made in the year +1822. + +The anecdote of Charles II. and the chaplains of the Chapel Royal +is often quoted, but it is worth repeating, as it shows the ready +wit of the great preacher, Dr. South. A daily dinner was prepared +at the Palace for the chaplains, and one day the King notified his +intention of dining with them. There had been some talk of abolishing +this practice, and South seized the opportunity of saying grace to do +his best in opposition to the suggestion; so, instead of the regular +formula, which was "God save the King and bless the dinner," said "God +bless the King and save the dinner." Charles at once cried out, "And it +shall be saved." + +The Duke of York and the King were fond of wandering about the park at +all hours, and as Charles often walked by himself, even as far as the +then secluded Constitution Hill, James having expressed fears for his +safety, the elder brother made the memorable reply: "No kind of danger, +James, for I am sure no man in England will take away my life to make +you king." + +Pepys tells us on March 16th, 1661-2, that while he was walking in the +park he met the King and Duke coming "to see their fowl play." + +Cosmo III., Grand Duke of Tuscany (then Hereditary Prince), made a +"Tour through England" in 1669, and it will be remembered that Macaulay +found the account of his travels a valuable help towards obtaining +a picture of the state of England in the middle of the seventeenth +century. Cosmo thus describes St. James's Park:-- + + "A large park enclosed on every side by a wall, and containing + a long, straight, and spacious walk, intended for the + amusement of the Mall, on each side of which grow large elms + whose shade render the promenade in that place in summer + infinitely pleasant and agreeable; close to it is a canal + of nearly the same length, on which are several species of + aquatic birds, brought up and rendered domestic--the work + of the Protector Cromwell; the rest of the park is left + uncultivated, and forms a wood for the retreat of deer and + other quadrupeds." + +His Highness was not quite correct in giving the credit of the +collection of wild-fowl to Cromwell, as the water-fowl appear to have +been kept in the park from the reign of Elizabeth, and the ponds were +replenished after the Restoration. + +Evelyn gives a long account in his _Diary_ of the zoological +collections (February 9th, 1664-65). He says: + + "The parke was at this time stored with numerous flocks of + severall sorts of ordinary and extraordinary wild fowle, + breeding about the Decoy, which for being neere so greate a + citty, and among such a concourse of souldiers and people, + is a singular and diverting thing. There were also deere of + several countries, white; spotted like leopards; antelopes, + an elk, red deere, roebucks, staggs, guinea goates, Arabian + sheepe, etc. There were withy pots or nests for the wild fowle + to lay their eggs in, a little above y^e surface of y^e + water." + +Charles II. was a saunterer by nature, and he appears to have been +quite happy in the park either chatting with Nell Gwyn, at the end of +the garden of her Pall Mall house, in feeding the fowl, or in playing +the game of Mall. + +This game was popular from the end of the sixteenth to the beginning +of the eighteenth century, and then went out of fashion. At one time +there were few large towns without a mall, or prepared ground where +the game could be played. There is reason to believe that the game was +introduced into England from Scotland on the accession of James VI. to +the English throne, because the King names it in his "Basilicon Dōron" +among other exercises as suited for his son Henry, who was afterwards +Prince of Wales, and about the same time Sir R. Dallington, in his +_Method of Travel_ (1598), expresses his surprise that the sport was +not then introduced into England. + +The game was played in long shaded alleys, and on dry gravel walks. +The mall in St. James's Park was nearly half a mile in length, and was +kept with the greatest care. Pepys relates how he went to talk with the +keeper of the mall, and how he learned the manner of mixing the earth +for the floor, over which powdered cockle-shells were strewn. All this +required such attention that a special person was employed for the +purpose, who was called the cockle-strewer. In dry weather the surface +was apt to turn to dust, and consequently to impede the flight of the +ball, so that the cockle-strewer's office was by no means a sinecure. +Richard Blome, writing in 1673, asserts that this mall was "said to +be the best in Christendom," but Evelyn claims the pre-eminence for +that at Tours, with its seven rows of tall elms, as "the noblest in +Europe for length and shade." The game is praised by Sir R. Dallington +"because it is a gentlemanlike sport, not violent, and yields good +occasion and opportunity of discourse as they walke from one marke to +the other," and Joseph Lauthier, who wrote a treatise on the subject, +entitled _Le Jeu de Mail_, Paris, 1717 (which is now extremely scarce), +uses the same form of recommendation. + +The chief requisites for the game were mallets, balls, two arches or +hoops, one at either end of the mall, and a wooden border marked +so as to show the position of the balls when played. The mallets +were of different size and form to suit the various players, and +Lauthier directs that the weight and height of the mallet should be in +proportion to the strength and stature of the player. The balls were of +various sizes and weights, and each size had its distinct name. In damp +weather, when the soil was heavy, a lighter ball was required than when +the soil was sandy. A gauge was used to ascertain its weight, and the +weight of the mallet was adjusted to that of the ball. The arch or pass +was about two feet high and two inches wide. The one at the west end +of St. James's Park remained in its place for many years, and was not +cleared away until the beginning of the reign of George III. In playing +the game, the mallet was raised above the head and brought down with +great force so as to strike the ball to a considerable distance. The +poet Waller describes Charles II.'s stroke in the following lines:-- + + "Here a well-polished Mall gives us joy, + To see our prince his matchless force employ. + No sooner has he touch'd the flying ball, + But 'tis already more than half the Mall; + And such a fury from his arm has got, + As from a smoking culverin 'twere shot." + +Considerable skill and practice were required in the player, who, while +attempting to make the ball skate along the ground with speed, had to +be careful that he did not strike it in such a manner as to raise it +from the ground. This is shown by what Charles Cotton writes:-- + + "But playing with the boy at Mall + (I rue the time and ever shall), + I struck the ball, I know not how, + (For that is not the play, you know), + A pretty height into the air." + +This boy was, perhaps, a caddie, for it will be seen that the game was +a sort of cross between golf and croquet. + +Lauthier describes four ways of playing at pall mall, viz.:--(1) the +_rouet_, or pool game; (2) _en partie_, a match game; (3) _à grands +coups_, at long shots; and (4) _chicane_, or hockey. Moreover, he +proposes a new game to be played like billiards. + +We may now pass from St. James's Park to Hyde Park, which became a +place of public resort in the reigns of James I. and Charles I. It was +then considered to be quite a country place. Ben Jonson mentions in +the Prologue to his comedy, _The Staple of News_ (1625), the number of +coaches which congregated there, and Shirley describes the horse-races +in his comedy entitled _Hide Parke_ (1637). + +The park, being Crown property, was sold by order of Parliament in 1652 +for about £17,000 in three lots, the purchasers being Richard Wilcox, +John Tracy, and Anthony Deane. Cromwell was a frequent visitor, and on +one occasion when he was driving in the park his horses ran away, and +he was thrown off his coach. + +After the Restoration the park was the daily resort of all the +gallantry of the court, and Pepys found driving there very pleasant, +although he complained of the dust. The Ring, which is described in +Grammont's _Memoirs_ as "the rendezvous of magnificence and beauty," +was a small enclosure of trees round which the carriages circulated. + +Pepys writes April 4th, 1663:-- + + "After dinner to Hide Park ... At the Park was the King and in + another coach my Lady Castlemaine, they greeting one another + at every tour." + +This passage is illustrated in Wilson's _Memoirs_, 1719, where we are +told that when the coaches "have turned for some time round one way, +they face about and turn t'other." + +John Macky, in his _Journey through England_ (1724), affirms that in +fine weather he had seen above three hundred coaches at a time making +"the Grand Tour." + +Cosmo tells of the etiquette which was observed among the company:-- + + "The King and Queen are often there, and the duke and duchess, + towards whom at the first meeting and no more all persons show + the usual marks of respect, which are afterwards omitted, + although they should chance to meet again ever so often, every + one being at full liberty, and under no constraint whatever, + and to prevent the confusion and disorder which might arise + from the great number of lackies and footmen, these are not + permitted to enter Hyde Park, but stop at the gate waiting for + their masters." + +Oldys refers to a poem, printed in sixteen pages, which was entitled +"The Circus, or British Olympicks: a Satyr on the Ring in Hyde Park." +He says that the poem satirizes many well-known fops under fictitious +names, and he raises the number of coaches seen on a fine evening from +Macky's three hundred to a thousand. The Ring was partly destroyed at +the time the Serpentine was formed by Caroline, Queen of George II. + +Although the Ring has disappeared, Hyde Park has remained from the +Restoration period until the present day the most fashionable place in +London, but now the whole park has been utilized. + +Charles II., in reviving the Stage, specially patronised it himself, +and it may be referred to here from its connection with the Court. +It has already been noticed that previous monarchs did not visit the +public theatres. + +Pepys was an enthusiastic playgoer, and the _Diary_ contains a mass of +information respecting the Stage not elsewhere to be found, so that we +are able to trace the various advances made in the revival of the Stage +from the incipient attempt of Davenant before the Restoration to the +improvements in scenery introduced by the rivalry of the two managers, +Davenant and Killigrew. Immediately after the Restoration two companies +of actors were organized, who performed at two different houses. One +theatre was known as the King's House, called by Pepys "The Theatre," +and the other as the Duke's House, called by Pepys "The Opera." Sir +William Davenant obtained a patent for his company as "The Duke's +Servants," named after the Duke of York, and Thomas Killigrew obtained +one for "The King's Servants." + +Killigrew's Company first performed at the "Red Bull," Clerkenwell, and +on November 8th removed to Gibbons's Tennis Court in Bear Yard, which +was entered from Vere Street, Clare Market. Here the Company remained +till 1663, when they removed to Drury Lane Theatre, which had been +built for their reception, and was opened on May 7th. + +Davenant's Company first performed at the Cockpit, Drury Lane. They +began to play at Salisbury Court Theatre on November 13th, 1660, and +went to Cobham House, Blackfriars, on the site afterwards occupied +by Apothecaries' Hall, in January, 1661. They then removed to the +theatre in Portugal Row, built on the site of Lisle's Tennis Court. +Rhodes, a bookseller, who had formerly been wardrobe keeper at the +Blackfriars, had managed in 1659 to obtain a licence from the State, +and John Downes affirms that his company acted at the Cockpit, but +apparently he was acting at the Salisbury Court Theatre before Davenant +went there. Killigrew, however, soon succeeded in suppressing Rhodes. +Davenant planned a new building in Dorset Gardens, which was close +to Salisbury Court, where the former theatre was situated. He died, +however, before it was finished, but the company removed there in 1671, +and the theatre was opened on the 9th of November with Dryden's play, +_Sir Martin Mar-all_, which he had improved from a rough draft by the +Duke of Newcastle. Pepys had seen it seven times in the years 1667-68. +The Lincoln's Inn Fields Theatre remained shut up until February, 1672, +when the King's Company, burnt out of Drury Lane Theatre, made use of +it till March, 1674, by which time the new building in Brydges Street, +Covent Garden, was ready for their occupation. + +When Tom Killigrew died in 1682 the King's and the Duke's companies +were united, and the Duke's servants removed from Dorset Gardens to +Drury Lane. The two companies performed together for the first time on +November 16th. + +These constant changes are very confusing, and the recital of them is +not very entertaining, but it is necessary to make the matter clear +for the proper understanding of the history of the time. The plan of +the old theatres, with their platform stage, was no longer of use for +the altered arrangements introduced at the Restoration. Successive +improvements in the form of the houses were made, but we learn from +Pepys that it was some time before the roofing of the building was +water-tight. + +The public theatres were open in the afternoon, three o'clock being the +usual hour for performance, and the plays were therefore partly acted +in the summer by daylight. It was thus necessary to have skylights, but +these were so slight that heavy rain came and wetted those below. On +June 1st, 1664, Pepys wrote:-- + + "Before the play was done it fell such a storm of hail that we + in the middle of the pit were fain to rise, and all the house + in a disorder." + +Davenant was the original planner of the modern stage and its scenery, +but Killigrew did his part in the improvement carried out. He was +somewhat jealous of his brother manager, and on one occasion he +explained to Pepys what he himself had done:-- + + "Feb. 12th, 1666-67. The stage is now by his pains a thousand + times better and more glorious than ever heretofore. Now, wax + candles, and many of them; then not above 3 lbs. of tallow: + now all things civil, no rudeness anywhere; then as in a bear + garden: then two or three fiddlers, now nine or ten of the + best: then nothing but rushes upon the ground, and everything + else mean; and now all otherwise; then the Queen seldom and + the King never would come; now, not the King only for State + but all civil people do think they may come as well as any." + +Killigrew complained that "the audience at his house was not above half +as much as it used to be before the late fire," but in the following +year (February 6th, 1667-8) there were crowds at the other house. Pepys +relates:-- + + "Home to dinner, and my wife being gone before, I to the Duke + of York's playhouse; where a new play of Etheridge's called + 'She Would if she Could,' and though I was there by two + o'clock, there were 1,000 people put back that could not have + room in the pit." + +Pepys's criticisms on the plays he saw acted at these theatres were not +always satisfactory, and often they were contradictory. At the same +time he was apparently judicious in the disposal of praise and blame +on the actors he saw. Betterton was his ideal of the perfect actor, +and, so far as it is possible to judge as to one who lived so long ago, +public opinion formed by those capable of judging from contemporary +report seems to be in agreement with that of Pepys. + +Pepys was a great frequenter of taverns and inns, as were most of his +contemporaries. There are about one hundred and thirty London taverns +mentioned in the _Diary_, but time has swept away nearly all of these +houses, and it is difficult to find any place which Pepys frequented. + +These taverns may be considered as a link between the Court end of +London and the city, for Pepys distributed his favours between the two +places. King Street, Westminster, was full of inns, and Pepys seems to +have frequented them all. Two of them--the "Dog" and the "Sun"--are +mentioned in Herrick's address to the shade of "Glorious Ben":-- + + "Ah, Ben! + Say how or when + Shall we thy guests + Meet at these feasts + Made at the Sun, + The Dog, the Triple Tunne? + Where we such clusters had + As made us nobly wild, not mad! + And yet such verse of thine + Outdid the meate, outdid the frolic wine." + +The "Three Tuns" at Charing Cross, visited by Pepys, was probably the +same house whose sign Herrick changes to "Triple Tun." + +Among the Westminster taverns may be mentioned "Heaven" and "Hell," two +places of entertainment at Westminster Hall; the "Bull Head" and the +"Chequers" and the "Swan" at Charing Cross; the "Cock" in Bow Street +and the "Fleece" in York Street, Covent Garden; the "Canary" house by +Exeter Change; and the "Blue Balls" in Lincoln's Inn Fields. + +The majority of these taverns patronised by Pepys were, however, in +the city. There were several "Mitres" in London, but perhaps the most +interesting one was that kept in Fenchurch Street by Daniel Rawlinson, +a staunch royalist, who, when Charles I. was executed, hung his sign in +mourning. Thomas Hearne says that naturally made him suspected by the +Roundheads, but "endeared him so much to the Churchmen that he throve +amain and got a good estate." His son, Sir Thomas Rawlinson, was Lord +Mayor in 1700, and President of Bridewell Hospital. His two grandsons, +Thomas and Richard Rawlinson, hold an honourable place in the roll +of eminent book collectors. The "Samson" in St. Paul's Churchyard +was another famous house, as also the "Dolphin" in Tower Street, a +rendezvous of the Navy officers, which provided very good and expensive +dinners. + +The "Cock" in Threadneedle Street was an old-established house when +Pepys visited it on March 7th, 1659-60, and it lasted till 1840, when +it was cleared away. In the eighteenth century it was a constant +practice for the frequenters of the "Cock" to buy a chop or steak at +the butcher's and bring it to be cooked, the charge for which was one +penny. Fox's friend, the notorious Duke of Norfolk, known as "Jockey of +Norfolk," often bought his chop and brought it here to be cooked, until +his rank was discovered. + +The meetings of the Royal Society were held at Gresham College in +Bishopsgate Street, and then at Arundel House in the Strand, which was +lent to the Society by Henry Howard of Norfolk, afterwards Duke of +Norfolk. Cosmo of Tuscany visited the latter place for a meeting of the +Royal Society, and he gives in his _Travels_ an interesting account of +the manner in which the proceedings were carried out. + +There are many references in Pepys's _Diary_ to the Lord Mayor and the +Rulers of the City, and of the customs carried out there. + +The Lord Mayor, aldermen, and common councilmen visited Cosmo, who +was staying at Lord St. Alban's mansion in St. James's Square. His +Highness, having dined with the King at the Duke of Buckingham's, kept +the city magnates waiting for a time, but Colonel Gascoyne, "to make +the delay less tedious, had accommodated himself to the national taste +by ordering liquor and amusing them with drinking toasts, till it was +announced that His Highness was ready to give them audience." The +description of the audience is very interesting. + +Pepys lived in the city at the Navy Office in Seething Lane (opposite +St. Olave's, Hart Street, the church he attended) during the whole of +the time he was writing his _Diary_, but when he was Secretary of the +Admiralty he went, in 1684, to live at the end of Buckingham Street, +Strand, in a house on the east side which looks on to the river. + +Mr. John Eliot Hodgkin possesses the original lease (dated September +30th, 1687) from the governor and company of the New River for a supply +of water through a half-inch pipe, and four small cocks of brass led +from the main pipe in Villiers Street to Samuel Pepys's house in York +Buildings, also a receipt for two quarters' rent for the same.[8] + +Two of the greatest calamities that could overtake any city occurred +in London during the writing of the _Diary_, and were fully described +by Pepys--viz., the Plague of 1665 and the Fire of 1666. Defoe's most +interesting history of the plague year was written in 1722 at second +hand, for the writer was only two years old when this scourge overran +London. Pepys wrote of what he saw, and as he stuck to his duty during +the whole time that the pestilence continued, he saw much that occurred. + +England was first visited with the plague in 1348-49, which, since 1833 +(when Hecker's work on the _Epidemics of the Middle Ages_ was first +published in English), has been styled the Black Death--a translation +of the German term "Der Schwarze Tod." This plague had the most +momentous effect upon the history of England on account of the fearful +mortality it caused. It paralysed industry, and permanently altered +the position of the labourer. The statistics of the writers of the +Middle Ages are of little value, and the estimates of those who died +are various, but the statement that half the population of England died +from the plague is probably not far from the truth. From 1348 to 1665 +plague was continually occurring in London, but it has not appeared +since the last date, except on a small scale. Dr. Creighton gives +particulars of the visitations in London in 1603, 1625, and 1665, from +which it appears that the mortality in 1665 was more than double that +in 1603, and about a third more than that in 1625. + +On the 7th of June, 1665, Pepys for the first time saw two or three +houses marked with the red cross, and the words "Lord, have mercy upon +us" upon the doors, and the sight made him feel so ill-at-ease that he +was forced to buy some roll tobacco to smell and chew.[9] On the 27th +of this month he writes: "The plague encreases mightily." + +According to the Bills of Mortality, the total number of deaths in +London for the week ending June 27th was 684, of which number 267 +were deaths from the plague. The number of deaths rose week by week +until September 19th, when the total was 8,297, and the deaths from +the plague 7,165. On September 26th the total had fallen to 6,460, and +deaths from the plague to 5,533. The number fell gradually, week by +week, till October 31st, when the total was 1,388, and the deaths from +the plague 1,031. On November 7th there was a rise to 1,787 and 1,414 +respectively. On November 14th the numbers had gone down to 1,359 and +1,050 respectively. On December 12th the total had fallen to 442, and +deaths from plague to 243. On December 19th there was a rise to 525 and +281 respectively. The total of burials in 1665 was 97,306, of which +number the plague claimed 68,596 victims. Most of the inhabitants of +London who could get away took the first opportunity of escaping from +the town, and in 1665 there were many places that the Londoner could +visit with considerable chance of safety. The court went to Oxford, and +afterwards came back to Hampton Court before venturing to return to +Whitehall. The clergy and the doctors fled with very few exceptions, +and several of those who stayed in town doing the duty of others, as +well as their own, fell victims to the scourge. + +Queen Elizabeth would have none of these removals. Stow says that +in the time of the plague of 1563, "a gallows was set up in the +Market-place of Windsor to hang all such as should come there from +London." + +Dr. Hodges, author of _Loimologia_, enumerates among those who assisted +in the dangerous work of restraining the progress of the infection were +the learned Dr. Gibson, Regius Professor at Cambridge; Dr. Francis +Glisson, Dr. Nathaniel Paget, Dr. Peter Barwick, Dr. Humphrey Brookes, +etc. Of those he mentions eight or nine fell in their work, among whom +was Dr. William Conyers, to whose goodness and humanity he bears the +most honourable testimony. Dr. Alexander Burnett, of Fenchurch Street, +one of Pepys's friends, was another of the victims. + +Of those to whom honour is due special mention must be made of Monk, +Duke of Albemarle, Evelyn, Pepys, Edmond Berry Godfrey; and there were, +of course, others. + +The Duke of Albemarle stayed at the Cockpit; Evelyn sent his wife and +family to Wotton, but he remained in town himself, and had very arduous +duties to perform, for he was responsible for finding food and lodging +for the prisoners of war, and he found it difficult to get money for +these purposes. He tells in his _Diary_ how he was received by Charles +II. and the Duke of York on January 29th, 1665-6, when the pestilence +had partly abated and the court had ventured from Oxford to Hampton +Court. The King + + "... ran towards me, and in a most gracious manner gave + me his hand to kisse, with many thanks for my care and + faithfulnesse in his service in a time of such greate danger, + when everybody fled their employment; he told me he was much + obliged to me, and said he was several times concerned for me, + and the peril I underwent, and did receive my service most + acceptably (though in truth I did but do my duty, and O that + I had performed it as I ought!) After that his Majesty was + pleased to talke with me alone, neere an houre, of severall + particulars of my employment and ordered me to attend him + againe on the Thursday following at Whitehall. Then the Duke + came towards me, and embraced me with much kindnesse, telling + me if he had thought my danger would have been so greate, + he would not have suffered his Majesty to employ me in that + station." + +Pepys refers, on May 1st, 1667, to his visit to Sir Robert Viner's, the +eminent goldsmith, where he saw "two or three great silver flagons, +made with inscriptions as gifts of the King to such and such persons +of quality as did stay in town [during] the late plague for keeping +things in order in the town, which is a handsome thing." Godfrey was +a recipient of a silver tankard, and he was knighted by the King in +September, 1666, for his efforts to preserve order in the Great Fire. +The remembrance of his death, which had so great an influence on the +spread of the "Popish Plot" terror, is greater than that of his public +spirit during the plague and the fire. + +Pepys lived at Greenwich and Woolwich during the height of the plague, +but he was constantly in London. How much these men must have suffered +is brought very visibly before us in one of the best letters Pepys ever +wrote: + + "To Lady Casteret, from Woolwich, Sept. 4, 1655. The absence + of the court and emptiness of the city takes away all occasion + of news, save only such melancholy stories as would rather + sadden than find your ladyship any divertissement in the + hearing. I have stayed in the city till about 7,400 died in + one week, and of them above 6,000 of the plague, and little + noise heard day or night but tolling of bells; till I could + walk Lumber Street and not meet twenty persons from one end to + the other, and not fifty on the Exchange; till whole families + have been swept away; till my very physician, Dr. Burnett, who + undertook to secure me against any infection, having survived + the month of his own house being shut up, died himself of the + plague; till the nights, though much lengthened, are grown + too short to conceal the burials of those that died the day + before, people thereby constrained to borrow daylight for that + service; lastly, till I could find neither meat nor drink + safe, the butchers being everywhere visited, my brewer's house + shut up, and my baker, with his whole family, dead of the + plague." + +[Illustration: THE GREAT FIRE OF LONDON. + +_The view shows Ludgate in the foreground, and in the distance St. +Paul's Cathedral and the Tower of St. Mary-le-Bow._] + +Before the first calamity of pestilence was ended the second calamity +of fire commenced. On the night of September 1st, 1666, many houses +were destroyed. At three o'clock in the morning of the 2nd (Sunday) +his servant Jane awoke Pepys to tell him that a great fire was raging. +Not thinking much of the information, he went to sleep again, but when +he rose at seven he found that about 300 houses had been burned in the +night. He went first to the Tower, and saw the Lieutenant. Then he took +boat to Whitehall to see the King. He tells of what he has seen, and +says that, unless His Majesty will command houses to be pulled down, +nothing can stop the fire. On hearing this the King instructs him to +go to the Lord Mayor (Sir Thomas Bludworth) and command him to pull +down houses in every direction. The Mayor seems to have been but a poor +creature, and when he heard the King's message + + "... he cried like a fainting woman, 'Lord! what can I do? I + am spent: people will not obey me. I have been pulling down + houses, but the fire overtakes us faster than we can do it.'" + +Fortunately, most of the Londoners were more vigorous than the Mayor. +The King and the Duke of York interested themselves in the matter, and +did their best to help those who were busy in trying to stop the fire. +Evelyn wrote on September 6th:-- + + "It is not indeede imaginable how extraordinary the vigilance + and activity of the King and the Duke was, even labouring + in person, and being present to command, order, reward, or + encourage workmen, by which he showed his affection to his + people and gained theirs." + +Sir William Penn and Pepys were ready in resource, and saw to the +blowing up of houses to check the spread of the flames, the former +bringing workmen out of the dockyards to help in the work. During the +period when it was expected that the Navy Office would be destroyed, +Pepys sent off his money, plate, and most treasured property to Sir +W. Rider, at Bethnal Green, and then he and Penn dug a hole in their +garden, in which they put their wine and parmezan cheese. + +On the 10th of September, Sir W. Rider let it be known that, as the +town is full of the report respecting the wealth in his house, he will +be glad if his friends will provide for the safety of their property +elsewhere. + +On September 5th, when Evelyn went to Whitehall, the King commanded him + + "... among the rest to looke after the quenching of Fetter + Lane end, to preserve if possible that part of Holborn, whilst + the rest of y^e gentlemen tooke their several posts, some + at one part, some at another (for now they began to bestir + themselves and not till now, who hitherto had stood as men + intoxicated with their hands acrosse) and began to consider + that nothing was likely to put a stop but the blowing up of + so many houses as might make a wider gap than any had yet + been made by the ordinary method of pulling them downe with + engines." + +The daily records of the fire and of the movements of the people are +most striking. Now we see the river crowded with boats filled with the +goods of those who are houseless, and then we pass to Moorfields, where +are crowds carrying their belongings about with them, and doing their +best to keep these separate till some huts can be built to receive +them. Soon paved streets and two-storey houses were seen in Moorfields, +the city authorities having let the land on leases for seven years. + +The wearied people complained that their feet were "ready to burn" +through walking in the streets "among the hot coals." + +(September 5th, 1666.) Means were provided to save the unfortunate +multitudes from starvation, and on this same day proclamation was made + + "... ordering that for the supply of the distressed persons + left destitute ... great proportions of bread be brought + daily, not only to the former markets, but to those lately + ordained. Churches and public places were to be thrown open + for the reception of poor people and their goods." + +Westminster Hall was filled with "people's goods." + +On September 7th Evelyn went towards Islington and Highgate + + "... where one might have seen 200,000 people of all ranks + and degrees dispers'd and lying along by their heapes of what + they could save from the fire, deploring their losse, and tho' + ready to perish for hunger and destitution yet not asking one + penny for reliefe, which to me appear'd a stranger sight than + any I had yet beheld." + +The fire was fairly got under on September 7th, but on the previous +day Clothworkers' Hall was burning, as it had been for three days and +nights, in one volume of flame. This was caused by the cellars being +full of oil. How long the streets remained in a dangerous condition +may be guessed by Pepys's mention, on May 16th, 1666-7, of the smoke +issuing from the cellars in the ruined streets of London. + +The fire consumed about five-sixths of the whole city, and outside the +walls a space was cleared about equal to an oblong square of a mile and +a half in length and half a mile in breadth. Well might Evelyn say, "I +went againe to y^e ruines for it was no longer a citty" (September +10th, 1666). + +The destruction was fearful, and the disappearance of the grand old +Cathedral of St. Paul's was among the most to be regretted of the +losses. One reads these particulars with a sort of dulled apathy, and +it requires such a terribly realistic picture as the following, by +Evelyn, to bring the scene home to us in all its magnitude and horror: + + "The conflagration was so universal, and the people so + astonish'd, that from the beginning I know not by what + despondency or fate, they hardly stirr'd to quench it, so + that there was nothing heard or seene but crying out and + lamentation, running about like distracted creatures without + at all attempting to save even their goods; such a strange + consternation there was upon them, so as it burned both in + breadth and length, the churches, public halls, Exchange, + hospitals, monuments and ornaments, leaping after a prodigious + manner, from house to house, and streete to streete, at greate + distances one from y^e other; for y^e heat with a long + set of faire and warm weather had even ignited the aire and + prepared the materials to conceive the fire, which devour'd + after an incredible manner houses, furniture, and every thing. + Here we saw the Thames cover'd with goods floating, all the + barges and boates laden with what some had time and courage to + save, as, on y^e other, y^e carts, &c., carrying out to + the fields, which for many miles were strew'd with moveables + of all sorts, and tents erecting to shelter both people + and what goods they could get away. Oh the miserable and + calamitous spectacle! Such as haply the world had not seene + since the foundation of it, nor be outdon till the universal + conflagration thereof. All the skie was of a fiery aspect, + like the top of a burning oven, and the light seene above 40 + miles round about for many nights. God grant mine eyes may + never behold the like, who now saw above 10,000 houses all in + one flame; the noise and cracking and thunder of the impetuous + flames, y^e shrieking of women and children, the hurry of + people, the fall of towers, houses and churches was like a + hideous storme and the aire all about so hot and inflam'd that + at the last one was not able to approach it, so that they were + forc'd to stand still and let y^e flames burn on, which they + did neere two miles in length and one in breadth. The clouds + also of smoke were dismall and reach'd upon computation neer + 50 miles in length. Thus I left it this afternoone burning, a + resemblance of Sodom, or the last day. It forcibly call'd to + mind that passage--_non enim hic habemus stabilem civitatem_: + the ruines resembling the picture of Troy. London was, but is + no more."--(Sept. 3rd, 1666.) + +Can we be surprised at the bewildered feelings of the people? Rather +must we admire the practical and heroic conduct of the homeless +multitude. It took long to rebuild the city, but directly anything +could be done the workers were up and doing. + +An Act of Parliament was passed "for erecting a Judicature for +determination of differences touching Houses burned or demolished by +reason of the late Fire which happened in London" (18 and 19 Car. II., +cap. 7), and Sir Matthew Hale was the moving spirit in the planning it +and in carrying out its provisions when it was passed. Burnet affirms +that it was through his judgment and foresight "that the whole city +was raised out of its ashes without any suits of law" (_History of +his Own Time_, Book ii.). By a subsequent Act (18 and 19 Car. II., +cap. 8) the machinery for a satisfactory rebuilding of the city was +arranged. The rulings of the judges appointed by these Acts gave +general satisfaction, and after a time the city was rebuilt very much +on the old lines, and things went on as before.[10] At one time it was +supposed that the fire would cause a westward march of trade, but the +city asserted the old supremacy when it was rebuilt. + +[Illustration: SOUTH-WEST VIEW OF OLD ST. PAUL'S.] + +Three great men, thoroughly competent to give valuable advice on the +rebuilding of the city, viz., Wren, Robert Hooke, and Evelyn, presented +to the King valuable plans for the best mode of arranging the new +streets, but none of these schemes was accepted. One cannot but regret +that the proposals of the great architect were not carried out. + +With the reference to the Plague and the Great Fire we may conclude +this brief account of the later Stuart London. The picturesque, but +dirty, houses were replaced by healthier and cleaner ones. The West +End increased and extended its borders, but the growth to the north of +Piccadilly was very gradual. All periods have their chroniclers, but +no period has produced such delightful guides to the actual life of +the town as the later half of the seventeenth century did in the pages +of Evelyn and Pepys. It must ever be a sincere regret to all who love +to understand the more intimate side of history that Pepys did not +continue his _Diary_ to a later period. We must, however, be grateful +for what we possess, and I hope this slight and imperfect sketch of +Pepys's London may refresh the memories of my readers as to what the +London of that time was really like. + +FOOTNOTES: + +[6] _Cal. State Papers_, 1603-10, p. 367. + +[7] During the time that the Jacobites were formidable, and long after, +it was firmly believed that the Old Pretender was brought into this +room as a baby in a warming pan, and plans of the room were common to +show how the fraud was committed. + +[8] _Rariora_, vol. i., p. 17. + +[9] Originally the crosses were of a blue colour, but Dr. Creighton +says that the colour was changed to red before the plague of 1603. + +[10] A full account of the fire and of the rebuilding of the city has +still to be written, and the materials for the latter are to hand in +the remarkable "Fire Papers" in the British Museum. I have long desired +to work on this congenial subject, but having been prevented by other +duties from doing so, I hope that some London expert will be induced +to give the public a general idea of the contents of these valuable +collections. + + + + +THE OLD LONDON BRIDGES + +BY J. TAVENOR-PERRY + + "London Bridge is broken down, + Dance o'er my Lady Lee. + London Bridge is broken down + With a gay Ladee." + + +At the beginning of the last century only three bridges spanned the +Thames in its course through London, and of these two were scarcely +fifty years old; but before the century closed there were no less +than thirteen bridges across the river between Battersea and the +Pool. The three old bridges have been rebuilt, and even some of the +later ones have been reconstructed, whilst one has been removed +bodily, and now spans the gorge of the Avon at Bristol. Of all these +bridges unfortunately only two are constructed wholly of stone, and +can lay claim to any architectural merit; and even one of these two +has recently had the happy effect of its graceful arches destroyed by +the addition of overhanging pathways. Of the rest, some are frankly +utilitarian--mere iron girder railway bridges, with no attempt at +decoration beyond gilding the rivets--whilst the others have their +iron arches and construction disguised with coarse and meaningless +ornaments. One only of the iron bridges is in anyway worthy of its +position; in its perfect simplicity and the bold spans of its three +arches, Southwark Bridge bears comparison with the best in Europe, but +the gradients and approaches are so inconvenient that it is even now +threatened with reconstruction. + +[Illustration: SIR JOHN EVELYN'S PLAN FOR REBUILDING LONDON AFTER THE +GREAT FIRE.] + +Exactly when the first bridge was built across the Thames at London +we can only surmise, for even tradition is silent on the subject, and +we only know of the existence of one at an early date by very casual +references, which, however, do not help us to realise the character +of the work. Though no evidence remains of a Roman bridge, it seems +unlikely, having regard to the importance of London, and to the fact +that the great roads from the south coast converged on a point opposite +to it, on the other side of the river, that they should have been left +to end there without a bridge to carry them over. The difficulties of +building across a great tidal river had not prevented the Romans from +bridging the Medway at Rochester, as remains actually discovered have +proved; and if no evidences of Roman work were actually met with in the +rebuilding of London Bridge or the removal of the old one, this may be +due to the fact that each successive bridge--and there have been at +least three within historical times--was built some distance further up +the stream than its predecessor. + +We know, however, with certainty that a bridge was standing in the +reign of King Ethelred from the references made to it, and we may +fairly assume that this must have been the Roman bridge, at least so +far as its main construction was concerned; and, like other Roman +bridges standing at that time in Gaul and in other parts of England, it +would have consisted merely of piers of masonry, with a wooden roadway +passing from one to the other. It was still standing, of sufficient +strength for resistance, when the Danes under Canute sailed up the +river, who, being unable to force a passage, tradition says--and +antiquaries have imagined they could discover traces of it--cut a ship +canal through the Surrey marshes from Bermondsey to Battersea, and +passed their fleet through that way. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1--THE UNDERCROFT OF ST. THOMAS OF CANTERBURY ON +THE BRIDGE.] + +The history of the bridge only opens with the beginning of the twelfth +century. According to tradition, the convent of St. Mary Overie, +Southwark, had been originally endowed with the profits of a ferry +across the river, and had in consequence undertaken the duty of +maintaining the bridge in a proper state of repair when a bridge was +built. This convent was refounded in 1106 as a priory of Austin Canons; +and it is not a little remarkable, having regard to the duties it had +undertaken, that of its founders, who were two Norman Knights, one was +William de Pont de l'Arche. At the Norman town, where stood his castle +and from which he took his name, was a bridge of twenty-two openings, +erected, it was said, by Charles the Bald, but most likely a Roman +work, across the Seine at the highest point reached by the tide. It +is a further curious coincidence that this same William appears as a +witness to a deed executed by Henry I., excusing the manor of Alciston, +in Sussex, from paying any dues for the repairs of London Bridge. + +It is recorded that in 1136 the bridge was burnt, which may perhaps +merely mean that the deck was destroyed, whilst the piers remained +sufficiently uninjured to allow of the structure being repaired; but +in 1163 it had become so dangerous that Peter of Colechurch undertook +the erection of a new bridge, which he constructed of elm timber. This +sudden emergence of Peter from obscurity to carry out so important an +engineering work is as dramatic as is that of St. Bénezet, who founded +the confraternity of _Hospitaliers pontifices_, which undertook the +building of bridges and the establishment of ferries. According to +legend, this saint, although then only a young shepherd, essayed to +bridge the Rhone at Avignon, and the ruined arches of his great work +are still among the sights of that city. Peter may have possessed +many more qualifications for building than a shepherd could have +acquired, as large ecclesiastical works were in progress in London +throughout his life, which he must have observed and perhaps profited +by; but this is only surmise, as of his history, except in connection +with his great work, we know no more than the fact that he was the +chaplain of St. Mary Colechurch. His contemporary, Randulphus de +Decito, Dean of London, says that he was a native of the city, so +that it is scarcely likely that he had acquired his skill abroad; but +we are told that he traversed the country to collect the moneys for +his undertaking, and he may thus have obtained some knowledge of the +many Roman bridges which still survived, or even have seen the great +bridge which Bishop Flambard had recently erected across the Wear +at Durham. His selection as the architect of the earlier bridge of +1163 may perhaps not be due in any way to his especial engineering +skill, but rather to some intimate connection with the priory of St. +Mary Overie, whose canons were primarily responsible for the bridge +repairs; indeed, since he is merely described as the chaplain of his +church, he may himself have been one of the canons. But be the cause +what it may--and it was not his success in erecting this first bridge, +for it soon became dilapidated--thirteen years after its erection he +started afresh, on a site further up the river, to erect a bridge of +stone. In 1176, two years before St. Bénezet began his great bridge at +Avignon, he commenced his work, and thirty-three years passed before +its completion. Whether the delay was due to lack of funds or the +incapacity of the architect we do not know, though probably to both, +for before Peter's death King John, who had manifested considerable +interest in the new bridge, had urged Peter's dismissal, and, under the +advice of the Archbishop of Canterbury, suggested the appointment of +Isembert of Saintes to complete the work. This Isembert was credited +with the erection of the great bridge across the Charante at Saintes, +although that bridge was undoubtedly a Roman one, and all he appears to +have done was to turn arches between the original piers, and make it a +stone bridge throughout. The same master was said to have built another +bridge at La Rochelle, and had evidently gained much experience in +such engineering work; and it is perhaps a misfortune that the King's +advice was neglected, as a skilled architect, which Peter certainly +was not, might have saved the city of London much eventual loss and +trouble. Peter was, however, suffered to continue the bridge until his +death in 1205, when a commission of three city merchants completed the +work in four years. + +The bridge which these many years of labour had produced was in +every way unsuitable to its position, and mean as compared to +similar buildings erected elsewhere. Lacking the skill to form +proper foundations, Peter had spread them out into wide piers, which +formed an almost continuous dam, through the openings in which the +water rushed like a mill-race. The result was that the scour soon +affected the stability of the piers, which had to be protected round +by masses of masonry and chalk in the form of sterlings, which still +further contracted the narrow waterways. The passage of the bridge by +boat--"shooting the bridge," it was called--was always a dangerous +operation; and a writer of the last century speaks of "the noise of +the falling waters, the clamours of the water-men, and the frequent +shrieks of drowning wretches," in describing it. So imperfectly built +was the bridge that within four years of its completion King John +again interfered, and called upon the Corporation properly to repair +it; and from this time, or perhaps from Peter's death, when the three +merchants were elected to complete the work, the Corporation appears to +have taken over the responsibility of the bridge; and for this purpose +they were endowed with certain properties, which became the nucleus of +the present "Bridge House Estates." The increasing dilapidation of the +bridge, the debris of fallen arches, and the rubbish and waste material +which was suffered to accumulate, still further impeded the natural +flow of the water, and little effort at improvement was ever made. Of +the three widest arches of the bridge, which were called the navigable +locks, the most important had been the one nearest to the city end, +which became known as the "Rock Lock," and it acquired that name on +account of a popular delusion that in its fairway was a growing and +vegetating rock, which was nothing more than an accumulation of fallen +ruins, which caught and held the floating refuse carried to and fro by +the tides. And thus year after year the river dam became more solid, +and the waterfall increased in height until it was said by one who knew +them both that it was almost as safe to attempt the Falls of Niagara as +to shoot London Bridge. + +As years went by, not only did the waterways become congested, but the +roadway above began to be encroached on by houses and other buildings, +for which a bridge was most unfitted. Two edifices, however, from the +first formed necessary, or at least customary, adjuncts to such a +building--the bridge gate and the bridge chapel. It was a Roman custom +to erect gates at one end, or in the centre of their bridges--not +triumphal arches, but twin gates, such as they built to their walled +towns, and such as stood at the end of the bridge at Saintes, when it +was altered by Isembert. Such gates as survived in mediæval times were +generally fortified, and formed the model for imitation by mediæval +builders; and such a gate was erected at the Southwark end of London, +which, under its name of Bridge Gate, became one of the principal gates +of the city. It was erected directly on one of the main piers, and was +therefore of a substantial character, but suffered much in the various +attacks made upon London from the Kentish side. In 1436 it collapsed, +together with the Southwark end of the bridge, but was rebuilt at +the cost of the citizens, chief among whom was Sir John Crosby, the +builder of Crosby House; and although the gate was again in great part +destroyed by the attack on London made in 1471 by Fauconbridge, one of +the towers of Crosby's gate survived until the eighteenth century. In +1577 the tower which stood at the north end of the bridge, and on which +were usually displayed the heads of traitors, became so dilapidated +that it was taken down, and the heads then on it were transferred to +the Bridge Gate, henceforward known as "Traitors' Gate." It was upon +the earlier gate that the head of Sir Thomas More was affixed, when +heads were so common that even his, as we know from its adventures +until buried in the Roper vault at Canterbury, was thrown into the +river to make room for a crowd of successors. + +[Illustration: FIG. 2--THE SURREY END OF LONDON BRIDGE.] + +Of the chapel, which the founder of the bridge is said to have erected, +no account survives; and although it was believed at the time of +the destruction of the bridge that his remains were discovered, no +satisfactory evidence of their identity was forthcoming. The first +chapel must have perished in one of the early misfortunes which befel +the fabric, as no trace of any detail which could be referred to the +thirteenth century was discovered when the pier on which the chapel +stood was removed. The drawings made by Vertue before the last remains +were cleared away show a structure which may be assigned to a date +but little later than the Chapel Royal of St. Stephen at Westminster, +to which, in many particulars, it must have borne a considerable +resemblance. It consisted of two storeys, both apparently vaulted, +measuring some sixty by twenty feet, with an apsidal termination. The +undercroft was nearly twenty feet high, and our illustration (fig. 1) +of a restoration of it, prepared from Vertue's drawings and dimensions, +will give some idea of its beauty. The upper chapel seems to have been +similar, but much more lofty, and had an arcade running round the walls +under the windows. The buttresses of the exterior were crowned with +crocketted pinnacles, and the effect of the whole, standing high above +the surging waters of the river, must have been as striking as it was +beautiful. The chapel was built on the centre pier of the bridge, on +the east side, and the chapels were entered from the roadway, the lower +one by a newel staircase, on which was found the holy-water stoup when +the bridge was destroyed in the last century. At the Reformation the +church was converted into a warehouse, but, thanks to the solidity of +its construction, it remained almost intact till it was swept away with +the houses in 1756. + +Of the other buildings on the bridge there is little to say, for, +although they made up a picturesque composition, they were of a most +flimsy character, and wanting at the last in any architectural merit. +Our illustration (fig. 2), taken from an oil painting by Scott, +belonging to the Fishmongers' Company, gives the principal group on the +Surrey side, and in the sixth plate of Hogarth's _Marriage a la Mode_ +we get a view through the open window of another part in the last stage +of dilapidation. There was, however, one exception to the commonplace +among them, in a timber house, made in Holland, which was known as +"Nonsuch House." It was erected, it was said, without nails, and placed +athwart the roadway, hanging at the ends far over the river, with +towers and spires at the angles, and over the great gate the arms of +Queen Elizabeth. The top of the main front was surmounted, at a later +date, with a pair of sundials, which bore the, for once, appropriate +motto--"Time and Tide wait for no man." + +Had old London Bridge survived to this day, its waterfalls would +doubtless have been utilized to generate electricity, and the idea of +setting the Thames on fire realized in lighting the streets of London +by its means; but the value of the force of the falling water was not +overlooked by our ancestors. As early as 1582 one Peter Corbis, a +Dutchman, erected an engine, worked by the stream, which lifted the +water to a reservoir, whence it was distributed by means of leaden +pipes through the city. With many alterations and improvements, these +water works continued in use until the last century, and it was stated +before the House of Commons, in 1820, that more than 26 millions of +hogsheads of the pellucid waters of the river were thus daily delivered +to the city householders for their domestic use. + +Such, shortly, is the history of the fabric, which, after enduring +for more than six hundred years, was swept away to make room for the +present structure. For any accounts of the many stirring events which +occurred on it, or about it, we have no space here. Are they not +written in the chronicles of England? + +In the Fishmongers' Hall is preserved a valuable memorial of the +ancient structure, of which we give an illustration (fig. 3) by +permission of the Worshipful Company. It consists of a chair with +a seat of Purbeck marble, reminiscent in its arrangements of the +coronation chair, on which is engraved this inscription:-- + + "I am the first stone that was put down for the foundation of + old London Bridge in June 1176 by a priest named Peter who was + vicar of Colechurch in London and I remained there undisturbed + safe on the same oak piles this chair is made from till the + Rev^d. William John Jollife curate of Colmer Hampshire took + me up in July 1832 when clearing away the old bridge after new + London Bridge was completed." + +The framework of the chair gives a pictorial chronicle of the city +bridges; the top rail of the back shows old London Bridge after the +removal of the houses, below which are new London Bridge, Southwark and +old Blackfriars Bridges. The arms of the city are carved at the top, +whilst the monogram of Peter of Colechurch and the device of the Bridge +House Estates complete the decoration. This device, which appears to +have been also the old badge of Southwark, was sometimes displayed +upon a shield, thus:--Az., an annulet ensigned with a cross patée, Or; +interlaced with a saltire enjoined in base, of the second. We give an +illustration of this in figure 5. + +[Illustration: FIG. 3--THE FOUNDATION STONE CHAIR. + +_At the Fishmongers' Hall._] + +Westminster Bridge seems a very recent structure as compared to that +of London, but it is the next in point of date. The growing importance +of Westminster as the seat of the Court and Parliament had made the +necessity for an approach to the south side of the Thames, independent +of the circuitous and narrow ways of London, long apparent. In the +reign of Charles II. the question was seriously considered, to the +alarm of the Mayor and Corporation of the city, who feared that +their vested interests were endangered, and "that London would be +destroyed if carts were allowed to cross the Thames elsewhere"; but, +knowing their man, they devoted some of their ample funds to secure +that monarch's successful opposition to the scheme. In the middle +of the eighteenth century, however, when there was no Stuart to buy +off, the idea was revived, and in 1739, one Monsieur Labelye, a +Swiss engineer--English engineers having, apparently, not sufficient +experience--commenced a new stone bridge. His mode of putting in his +foundations may have been scientific, but was certainly simple. The +bridge piers were partly built in floating barges moored above the +place where they were to be permanently erected. The barges were then +sunk, their sides knocked out, and the piers completed. It is needless +to say that the result was not satisfactory, and for years before the +old bridge was pulled down many of its arches were filled up with +a picturesque, but inconvenient, mass of shoring. Whether Henry, +Earl of Pembroke, who laid the foundation stone, and of whom it was +said no nobleman had a purer taste in architecture, was in any way +responsible for the design, we cannot tell; but a French traveller of +discrimination, who criticised the work after its completion, came to +the conclusion that the peculiarly lofty parapets with which the bridge +was adorned were so designed that they might check an Englishman's +natural propensity to suicide by giving him time for reflection while +surmounting such an obstacle. It will be noticed in our illustration +(fig. 4), which is also taken from a painting by Scott, that the piers +are crowned by alcoves, which provided a shelter from the blasts which +blew over the river and from the mud scattered from the roadway. These +were, doubtless, a survival of the spaces left above the cutwaters +of mediæval bridges as refuges for pedestrians from vehicles when +the roadways were very narrow, and those who remember the old wooden +bridges of Battersea and Putney can appreciate their value. + +The city Corporation, which had so strenuously opposed the erection +of a bridge at Westminster as unnecessary, set to work, as soon as +that became an accomplished fact, to improve their own communications +across the river. First, as we have seen, they cleared away the houses +and other obstructions on old London Bridge, and next they started to +build themselves a new bridge at Blackfriars. The land on both sides +of the river at the point selected was very low and most unsuitable +for the approaches, that on the north side being close to the mouth +of the Fleet ditch, which there formed a creek large enough, in 1307, +to form a haven for ships. The new bridge was begun in 1760, from the +designs of Robert Mylne, a Scotch architect, who made an unsuccessful +attempt to give an architectural effect to the structure by facing the +piers with pairs of Ionic columns, standing on the cutwaters. The steep +gradients of the bridge, necessitated by the lowness of the banks, made +such a decoration peculiarly unsuitable, as each pair of columns had to +be differently proportioned in height, although the cornice over them +remained of the same depth throughout. But, in spite of its appearance +of lightness, the structure was too heavy for its foundations, and for +years this bridge rivalled that of Westminster in the picturesqueness +of its dilapidation. The piers had been built on platforms of timber, +so that when London Bridge was rebuilt, and the river flowed in an +unchecked course, these became exposed to the scour and were soon +washed out. + +[Illustration: FIG. 4--OLD WESTMINSTER BRIDGE.] + +Waterloo Bridge was completed in 1817, and still remains unaltered +and as sound as when its builders left it. It is fortunate that the +approach on the north side was an easy one, as but a short interval +occurred between the Strand, at almost its highest point, and the river +bank, which it was easy to fill up, with the result that the bridge +passes across the river at a perfect level. The foundations of the +piers were properly constructed by means of coffer-dams, and no sign +of failure has ever shown itself in its superstructure. The architect +repeated the use of the orders, as at Blackfriars, but with a more +fortunate result, as, the work being straight throughout, no variations +in the proportions were required, and he was wise enough to select the +Doric order as more suitable to his purpose, and as suggesting more +solidity. + +Londoners profess to be somewhat proud of Waterloo Bridge, and it is +a tradition among them that Canova, when he saw it, said that it was +worth a journey across Europe to see. It, therefore, seems the more +incredible that the grandchildren of those who could build such a +bridge and appreciate such a man, could have erected, and even affect +to admire, such a monstrosity as the Tower Bridge. + +The last of the older bridges to be built was that of Southwark, which +was the speculation of a private company, who hoped to profit by the +continuously congested state of London Bridge; but the steepness of +the gradients and the inconvenience of the approaches from the city +made it from the first a failure. It was the first bridge in London to +be constructed in iron; its model being the great single-span bridge +across the Wear at Sunderland. It is in three great arches, the centre +one being 240 feet across, or four feet more than that at Sunderland, +and the mass of metal is such that an ordinary change of temperature +will raise the arches an inch, and summer sunshine much more. + +Of the more recent bridges there is nothing to say worth the saying. +The Thames, which was the busy and silent highway of our forefathers, +is still silent, but busy no longer, and the appearance of its bridges +is now no one's concern, since no one sees them. So long as they will +safely carry the tramcar or the motor 'bus from side to side, they may +become uglier even than they now are, if only that make them a little +more cheap. + +[Illustration: FIG. 5--BADGE OF BRIDGE HOUSE ESTATES.] + + + + +THE CLUBS OF LONDON + +BY SIR EDWARD BRABROOK, C.B., F.S.A. + + +These are of many kinds. We suppose they are all more or less the +lineal descendants of the taverns and coffee-houses that we associate +with the memory of Ben Jonson, Dryden, Addison, and Samuel Johnson. + + "Souls of poets dead and gone, + What elysium have ye known, + Happy field or mossy cavern, + Choicer than the Mermaid tavern?" + +The wits' coffee-house, where Claud Halcro carried a parcel for Master +Thimblethwaite in order to get a sight of glorious John Dryden. +Button's coffee-house, where the "Guardian" set up his Lion's Head. The +Cock and the Cheshire Cheese, which resound with Johnson's sonorous +echoes. If, indeed, the tavern has developed into the club, that palace +of luxury, one can only say, as in the famous transmutation of alphana +to equus, "C'est diablement changé sur la route." + +Intermediate is the host of clubs meeting occasionally, as the +Breakfast Club, and the numerous dining clubs, one of which, the Royal +Naval Club, established in 1765, is said to be a renewal of an earlier +one dating from 1674. "The Club," which comes down from the time of +Johnson and Reynolds, and still uses a notification to a new member +drawn up by Gibbon; the Royal Society Club; the X Club, which consisted +of ten members of the Athenæum; the Society of Noviomagus, and the +Cocked Hat Club, consisting of members of the Society of Antiquaries; +the Cosmos Club of the Royal Geographical Society; the Colquhoun Club +of the Royal Society of Literature; and a host of others in connection +with learned societies, most of which are content to add the word +"club" to the name of the society. Of another, but cognate, kind is +the famous "Sublime Society of Beef Steaks," which was founded in +1735, and died (of inanition) in 1867. The members were not to exceed +twenty-four in number. Beef steaks were to be the only meat for dinner. +The broiling began at 2.0, and the tablecloth was removed at 3.30. In +1785 the Prince of Wales, in 1790 the Duke of York, in 1808 the Duke of +Sussex, became members. It had a laureate bard in the person of Charles +Morris, elected a member in 1785, who died in 1838 at the age of 93 +years. In early times the members appeared in the uniform of a blue +coat and buff waistcoat, with brass buttons bearing a gridiron and the +motto "Beef and Liberty." The hour of meeting became later gradually, +till in 1866 it was fixed at 8 o'clock; then the club quickly died out. +Founded by John Rich, harlequin and machinist at Covent Garden, it had +counted among its members William Hogarth, David Garrick, John Wilkes, +John Kemble, William Linley, Henry Brougham (Lord Chancellor), and many +other distinguished men. The Ettrick Shepherd gave an account, in 1833, +of a visit he paid to this club:-- + + "They dine solely on beefsteaks--but what glorious beefsteaks! + They do not come up all at once--no, nor half-a-dozen times; + but up they come at long intervals, thick, tender, and as hot + as fire. And during these intervals the members sit drinking + their port, and breaking their wicked wit on each other, so + that every time a new service of steaks came up, we fell to + them with much the same zest as at the beginning. The dinner + was a perfect treat--a feast without alloy." + +Another somewhat similar club, though on a more modest scale, deserves +a cursory notice, inasmuch as it had to do with a state of things +that has passed away beyond hope of recovery. About 1870 the August +Society of the Wanderers was established with the motto, "Pransuri +vagamur." It selected all the remaining old inns at which a dinner +could be obtained, and dined at each in succession. It also had a bard, +Dr. Joseph Samuel Lavies, and, like the Beefsteaks, has left a poetic +record of its convivialities. Of all such records, however, the salt +quickly evaporates, and it is as well to leave them unquoted. + +Our main object in this chapter is to state a few incidents in the +history of some of the great London clubs. The oldest existing club +appears to be White's, founded in 1697. Boodle's, Brooks's, the Cocoa +Tree, and Arthur's date from 1762 to 1765. Most of the others belong to +the nineteenth century. The Guards' Club, which was the first of the +service clubs, dates from 1813, but that is confined to officers of the +Brigade of Guards. It was soon, however, followed by the establishment +of a club for officers of other branches of military service. + +We have it on good authority that before that club was founded officers +who came to London had no places of call but the old hotels and +coffee-houses. On May 31st, 1815, General Lord Lynedoch, Viscount Hill, +and others united in the establishment of a General Military Club. On +the 24th January, 1816, it was extended to the Navy, and on the 16th +February in the same year it adopted the name of the United Service +Club. On the 1st March, 1817, the foundation stone of its house in +Charles Street was laid. In November, 1828, it entered into occupation +of its present house in Pall Mall, and handed over the Charles Street +house to the Junior United Service Club. Its premises in Pall Mall were +largely extended in 1858-59, and have recently been greatly improved +at a cost of £20,000. The Club holds a lease from the Crown to 4th +January, 1964. It has a fine collection of eighty-two pictures and +busts, many of them of great merit as works of art, others of interest +as the only portraits of the originals. The library contains several +splendid portraits of Royal personages. The King is the patron of +the Club, and, as Prince of Wales, was a member of it. The Prince of +Wales, the Duke of Connaught, and Prince Christian, are now members. +Ten high officers of state and persons of distinction are honorary +members. Twelve kings and thirty princes are foreign honorary members. +The number of ordinary members is 1,600, but officers below the rank of +Commander in the Royal Navy, or Major in the Army, are not eligible. +The entrance fee is £30, and the annual subscription £10. Members have +the privilege of introducing guests. Games of hazard are not allowed to +be played, or dice to be used. Play is not to exceed 2s. 6d. points at +whist, or 10s. per hundred at bridge. + +As we have seen, this club shortly became full, and a Junior United +Service Club was formed in April, 1827, on the same lines, under the +patronage of the Duke of Wellington, but admitted officers of junior +rank, and in 1828 entered into occupation of the premises in Charles +Street, vacated by the Senior, on payment of £15,000. It erected its +new house in 1856 at a cost of £81,000. The entrance fee is £40, and +annual subscription eight guineas. It was not many years after its +establishment that the list of candidates for membership of the Junior +Club became so long that the necessity for the establishment of a third +service club was felt. Sir E. Barnes and a few officers, just returned +from India, joined in the movement, and in 1838 the Army and Navy Club +was opened at the corner of King Street and St. James's Square--the +house memorable as the scene of the party given by Mrs. Boehm on the +night the news of the Battle of Waterloo arrived. Sir E. Barnes, who +was its first president, died the same year. In 1851 the club moved +to its present stately building, the site of which includes that of a +house granted by Charles II. on the 1st of April, in the seventeenth +year of his reign, to Nell Gwynne, where Evelyn saw him in familiar +discourse with her. The club possesses a mirror that belonged to her, +and a portrait by Sir Peter Lely, which was supposed to be of her, +until it was discovered to be one of Louise de Querouaille, Duchess +of Portsmouth, and is also rich in pictures, statuary, and other +works of art--among them, two fine mantelpieces carved by Canova, +and a miniature of Lady Hamilton found in Lord Nelson's cabin after +his death; it has also autograph letters of Nelson and Wellington. +It derives its popular name of the "Rag and Famish" from a tradition +that Captain Duff came late one night asking for supper, and being +discontented with the bill of fare, called it a rag and famish affair. +In memory of the event he designed a button which used to be worn by +many members, and bore the device of a ragged man devouring a bone. +Napoleon III. was an honorary member of the club, and frequently used +it. He presented it with a fine piece of Gobelin tapestry in 1849. The +regular number of members is 2,400. The club has a scheme for granting +annuities or pensions to its servants. + +Of the group of social clubs bearing names derived from the original +proprietors of the club-houses--as White's, Boodle's, Brooks's, and +Arthur's--Brooks's may be taken as a specimen. A roll of its members +from the date of its foundation in 1764 to 1900 has recently been +published under the title _Memorials of Brooks's_, and contains much +interesting information. The editors, Messrs. V. A. Williamson, S. +Lyttelton and S. Simeon, state that the first London Clubs were +instituted with the object of providing the world of fashion with a +central office for making wagers, and a registry for recording them. +In their early days gambling was unlimited. Brooks's was not political +in its origin. The twenty-seven original members included the Dukes of +Roxburgh, Portland, and Gordon. In the 136 years 3,465 members have +been admitted. + +The original house was on or near the site of the present Marlborough +Club, and Almack was the first manager or master. About 1774 he was +succeeded by Brooks, from whom the club derives its name. He died in +1782, and was succeeded by one Griffin. In 1795 the system was altered, +and six managers were appointed. The present house in St. James' Street +was constructed in 1889-90, when 2, Park Place, was incorporated +with it. The entrance fee in 1791 was five guineas, and was raised +successively in 1815, 1881, 1892, and 1901, to nine, fifteen, +twenty-five and thirty guineas. The subscription was at first four +guineas, raised in 1779 to eight guineas, and in 1791 to ten guineas. + +An offshoot of Brooks's is the Fox Club, a dining club, probably +a continuation of an earlier Whig Club. Up to 1843 it met at the +Clarendon Hotel, and since then at Brooks's. It is said to have been +constituted for the purpose of paying Fox's debts, for which his +friends, in 1793, raised £70,000. Sir Augustus Keppel Stephenson was +the secretary of this club from 1867 until his death in 1904. He was +the son of a distinguished member of Brooks's, who had joined that club +in 1818, the Fox Club in 1829, was secretary of the Sublime Society of +Beef Steaks, and the last man to wear Hessian boots. + +The Travellers' Club dates from 1819, the Union from 1821, and the +United University from 1822. + +The Union Club is composed of noblemen, members of Parliament, and +gentlemen of the first distinction and character who are British +subjects, and has 1,250 members. Election is by open voting in the +committee. Foreign and Colonial persons of distinction may be made +temporary honorary members. The entrance fee is twenty-one guineas; the +annual subscription ten guineas. + +The United University Club has 1,000 members, of whom 500 belong to +Oxford and 500 to Cambridge. The King is a member. Cabinet ministers, +bishops, judges, etc., may be admitted without ballot. All members of +either University are qualified to be candidates, but only graduates, +persons who have resided in college or hall for two years, holders +of honorary degrees, and students in civil law of above three years' +standing, are qualified to be members. The club has recently rebuilt +its house at the corner of Suffolk Street and Pall Mall East. + +The Athenæum was originated by Mr. John Wilson Croker, after +consultation with Sir Humphry Davy, president of the Royal Society, +and was founded in 1824 for the association of individuals known for +their scientific or literary attainments, artists of eminence in any +class of the fine arts, and noblemen and gentlemen distinguished as +liberal patrons of science, literature, or the arts. It is essential +to the maintenance of the Athenæum, in conformity with the principles +upon which it was originally founded, that the annual introduction +of a certain number of persons of distinguished eminence in science, +literature, or the arts, or for public services, should be secured. +Accordingly, nine persons of such qualifications are elected by the +committee each year. The club entrusts this privilege to the committee, +in the entire confidence that they will only elect persons who shall +have attained to distinguished eminence in science, literature, or the +arts, or for public services. The General Committee may also elect +princes of the blood Royal, cabinet ministers, bishops, speakers of +the House of Commons, judges, and foreign ambassadors, or ministers +plenipotentiary of not less than three years' residence at the Court of +St. James's, to be extraordinary members; and may invite, as honorary +members during temporary residence in England, the heads of foreign +missions, foreign members of the Royal Society, and not more than +fifteen other foreigners or colonists of distinction. The ordinary +members of the club are 1,200 in number. The entrance fee is thirty +guineas, and the annual subscription eight guineas. The presidents for +the time being of the Royal Society, of the Society of Antiquaries, and +of the Royal Academy of Arts, if members, are ex-officio members of the +General Committee. An Executive Committee of nine is selected from the +General Committee to manage the domestic and other ordinary affairs of +the club. No elected member can remain on the General Committee more +than three consecutive years, unless he is a member of the Executive +Committee, in which case he may be re-elected for a second term of +three years. No higher stake than half-a-guinea points shall be played +for. No game of mere chance shall be played in the house for money. No +member shall make use of the club as an address in any advertisement. + +The history of the club has been told by the Rev. J. G. Waugh in an +interesting book printed for private circulation in 1900. Its first +house was 12, Waterloo Place, where it remained until 1827, when it +obtained its present site. Its success was so great that within four +months of the preliminary meeting in 1824 it had a list of 506 members, +including the then Prime Minister and seven persons who afterwards +became Prime Ministers. By 1827 it was full, and had a list of 270 +candidates waiting for election. The present house was planned by +Decimus Burton, and an attic storey was added to it in 1899-1900. It is +a successful building, striking attention by the statue of Minerva over +the porch, the frieze, and the noble hall and grand staircase. The hall +was re-decorated in 1891 under the direction of Sir L. Alma Tadema. +Originally, a soirée was held every Wednesday, to which ladies were +admitted. That has long been discontinued, and, as a satirical member +observed, "Minerva is kept out in the cold, while her owls are gorging +within." Among the members of the club have been the following great +actors: Macready, Mathews, Kemble, Terry, Kean, Young, and Irving. + +The Oriental Club was also established in 1824, at a meeting held eight +days after that at which the Athenæum had been established. Sir John +Malcolm presided. The club was intended for the benefit of persons +who had been long resident abroad in the service of the Crown, or of +the East India Company. By May, 1826, it had 928 members, and in that +year it took possession of the site of 18, Hanover Square, and employed +Mr. B. D. Wyatt as the architect of its house. Its history has been +written by Mr. Alexander F. Baillie, in a book published in 1901. +Mr. Wyatt provided a grand staircase, but no smoking-room, and only +one billiard-room. At that time and until 1842 the club provided its +members gratuitously with snuff at a cost of £25 per year. In 1874 the +present smoking-room was opened; and now the handsome drawing-room is a +place where those can retire who desire solitude, and the smoking-room +and billiard-rooms are overcrowded. The club has a fine library. It +claims among its members the prototype of Colonel Newcome. The members +have a custom of securing a table for dinner by inverting a plate upon +it. + +In 1855 the Oriental Club agreed to take over, without entrance fee, +the members of the Alfred Club, which had been established in 1808, +and was then being dissolved. Nearly 400 members availed themselves of +the offer. The history of that club has some points of interest. It +was largely intended for literary men, but it is said that Canning, +vexed at overhearing a member asking who he was, gave it the nickname +of the "Half-read" Club, which stuck to it. Its early career was +prosperous, and by 1811 it had 354 candidates and only six vacancies; +but its popularity waned. The real cause of its dissolution was the +firm conservatism of the committee. They would not recognise the +growing demand of accommodation for smokers. The clubhouse, No. 23, +Albemarle Street, had been built and arranged in the days when no +such accommodation had been considered necessary, and the committee +resolutely refused to make any concession to the members who desired to +smoke. + +The Garrick Club was founded in 1831. It was instituted for the +general patronage of the drama; for the purpose of combining the use +of a club on economical principles with the advantage of a literary +society; for bringing together the supporters of the drama; and for +the foundation of a national library, with works on costume. The +number of members is limited to 650, who pay an entrance fee of twenty +guineas, and an annual subscription of ten guineas. The club is more +than usually hospitable, as it allows a member to invite three visitors +to dinner, and admits the public to see its magnificent collection of +dramatic pictures daily from 10 to 1. + +The Carlton Club was established in 1832. It is famous as the rallying +ground for the Conservative party, the temple of Toryism. From it, and +its resources, candidates in that interest derive much encouragement +and support, and it may not unreasonably be inferred that some of that +encouragement and support is material as well as moral. + +The Reform Club was established in 1837, and then held the same +position towards the Liberal party. It was instituted for the purpose +of promoting the social intercourse of the Reformers of the United +Kingdom. All candidates are to declare themselves to be reformers, +but no definition of a "reformer" is given. If, however, a member is +believed not to be a reformer, fifty members may call a general meeting +for his expulsion. Members of Parliament and peers may be admitted by +general ballot, with priority of election. The committee elect each +year two gentlemen of distinguished eminence for public service, or in +science, literature, or arts. The Political Committee of fifty members +elect each year two persons who have proved their attachment to the +Liberal cause by marked and obvious services. Other members are elected +by general ballot, one black ball in ten excluding. The club has 1400 +members. It has a fine library. It has liberal regulations as to the +admission of guests, and ladies may be admitted to view the club from +11.0 a.m. to 5.0 p.m. Members may inspect the books and accounts and +take extracts from them. The admission fee is £40, and the annual +subscription ten guineas. + +The Conservative Club was established in 1840, and the National Club +in 1845. The object of the National Club is to promote Protestant +principles, and to encourage united action among Protestants in +political and social questions by establishing a central organisation +to obtain and spread information on such questions, by affording +facilities for conference thereon, and by providing in the metropolis +a central place of meeting to devise the fittest means for promoting +the object in view. Its members must hold the doctrines and principles +of the reformed faith, as revealed in Holy Scripture, asserted at the +Reformation, and generally embodied in the Articles of the Church +of England. It has a general committee, house committee, library +committee, prayer and religious committee, wine committee, finance +committee, and Parliamentary committee. The General Committee has power +to elect as honorary members of the club not more than twenty persons +distinguished by their zeal and exertions on behalf of the Protestant +cause; these are mostly clergymen. All meetings of committees are to +be opened with prayer. The household are to attend the reading of the +Word of God and prayers morning and evening in the committee room. The +Parliamentary committee are to watch all proceedings in Parliament +and elsewhere affecting the Protestant principles of the club. Its +fundamental principles are declared to be: + + (1) The maintenance of the Protestant constitution, + succession, and faith. + + (2) The recognition of Holy Scripture in national education. + + (3) The improvement of the moral and social condition of the + people. + +The club is singular in having these definite religious purposes, and +no doubt has in its time done much for the Protestant cause; but there +is a little incongruity between the earnestness of its purpose and +the self-indulgence which club life almost necessarily implies; and +religious opinion, which claims to be the most stable of all things, is +really one of the most fluid. Most men, who think at all, pass through +many phases of it in their lives. It would not be surprising if this +early earnestness had somewhat cooled down. + +Another group of clubs consists of those the members of which are bound +together by a common interest in some athletic sport or pursuit--as the +Marylebone Cricket Club, which dates from 1787; the Alpine Club, which +was founded in 1857; the Hurlingham Club, in 1868; and to these may +perhaps be added, as approximating to the same class, the Bath Club, +1894. + +The gradual filling up of old clubs, which we observed in the case +of the service clubs, and the congested state of their lists of +candidates, leading to long delay before an intending member had the +chance of election, has led to the establishment of junior clubs; thus, +in 1864, the Junior Athenæum and the Junior Carlton were founded. + +A further development has been the establishment of clubs for women. +The Albemarle Club, founded in 1874, admits both men and women, and +adjusts its lists of candidates so as to provide for the election of +nearly equal numbers of both. + +The Marlborough Club should also be mentioned specially, as it was +founded by the King, and no person can be admitted a member except upon +His Majesty's special approval. + +The Authors' Club was established in 1891 by the late Sir Walter +Besant, and is especially noted for its house dinners, at which some +person of distinction is invited to be the guest of the club. + +Altogether, the clubs of London are very numerous, and we have only +been able to draw attention to the peculiarities of a few of them. Like +every other human institution, they are subject to continual change, +and there are pessimists who go about saying that they are decaying +and losing their popularity and their usefulness. The long lists of +candidates on the books of the principal clubs do not lend much colour +to this suggestion. Social habits alter with every generation of men, +and it is possible that many men do not use their clubs in the same way +that the founders did, but the fact remains that they do use them, and +that clubs still form centres of pleasure and convenience to many. + +One particular in which the change of social habits is especially +noticeable is with respect to gaming. This, as we have seen, was almost +the _raison d'être_ of some of the early clubs, and there are numerous +tales of the recklessness with which it was pursued, and the fortunes +lost and won at the gaming table. We have quoted from one or two clubs +the regulations which now prevail, and similar regulations are adopted +in most of the other clubs. Games of chance are wholly prohibited; and +limits are provided to the amount that may be staked on games of cards. +Each club has also a billiard room. + +With respect to smoking, the habitués of clubs have experienced a great +change. Formerly the smoking room, if any, was small and far away; +now the luxury of the club is concentrated in it, and the question +is rather in what rooms smoking is not to be allowed. Very few clubs +retain the old tradition that smoking is a thing to be discouraged and +kept out of sight. + +Other signs of change are the increase in the cost of membership and +the later hours for dining. It need hardly be said that the clubs pay +great attention to their kitchens. We have it on the authority of Major +A. Griffiths (_Fortnightly Review_, April, 1907) that the salary of the +chef is between £200 and £300 a year. + +The customs of the clubs with regard to the admission of visitors +vary. At one end of the scale is the Athenæum, which will not allow +its members to give a stranger even a cup of cold water, and allows of +conversation with strangers only in the open hall or in a small room +by the side of the doorway. At the other end are clubs which provide +special rooms for the entertainment of visitors, and encourage their +members to treat their friends hospitably, and to show them what the +club is able to do in the matter of cooking and wines. + +The social ethics of clubs vary in like manner. In some clubs, +notably those of the Bohemian type, but including several which would +claim not to belong to that group, mere membership of the club is a +sufficient introduction to justify a member in addressing another, and +conversation in the common rooms of the club becomes general. This +is delightful--within limits: it is not always possible to create by +the atmosphere of the club a sentiment that will restrain all its +members from sometimes overstepping those bounds of mutual courtesy +and consideration which alone can make such general conversation +altogether pleasant. The greater clubs go to the opposite extreme, +and members of them may meet day after day for many years in perfect +unconsciousness of the existence of each other; yet, even in these, the +association of those who know each other outside the club, but without +its opportunities would rarely meet, though they have similar interests +and pursuits, is a very desirable and useful thing. Many an excellent +measure, originating in the mind of one member, has been matured by +conversation with others, to the general good. So may the Clubs of +London continue to prosper and flourish. + + + + +THE INNS OF OLD LONDON + +BY PHILIP NORMAN, LL.D. + + +To write a detailed account of London inns and houses of entertainment +generally would require not a few pages, but several volumes. The inns, +first established to supply the modest wants of an unsophisticated age, +came by degrees to fulfil the functions of our modern hotels, railway +stations, and parcel offices; they were places of meeting for business +and social entertainment--in short, they formed a necessary part of the +life of all Londoners, and of all who resorted to London, except the +highest and the lowest. The taverns, successors of mediæval cook-shops, +were frequented by most of the leading spirits of each generation from +Elizabethan times to the early part of the nineteenth century, and +their place has now been taken by clubs and restaurants. About these a +mass of information is available, also on coffee-houses, a development +of the taverns, in which, for the most part, they were gradually +merged. As to the various forms of public-house, their whimsical +signs alone have amused literary men, and perhaps their readers, from +the time of _The Spectator_ until now. In this chapter I propose to +confine my remarks to the inns "for receipt of travellers," so often +referred to by John Stow in his _Survey of London_, which, largely +established in the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, continued on the +same sites, mostly until years after the advent of railways had caused +a social revolution. These inns, with rare exceptions, had a galleried +courtyard, a plan of building also common on the Continent, which came +perhaps originally from the East. In such courtyards, as we shall see, +during Tudor times theatrical performances often took place, and in +form they probably gave a hint to the later theatres. + +Before the fifteenth century it was usual for travellers to seek the +hospitality of religious houses, the great people being lodged in +rooms set apart for them, while the poorer sort found shelter in the +guest-house. But as time went on this proved inadequate, and inns on +a commercial basis came into existence, being frequented by those who +could hardly demand special consideration from the religious houses, +and were not fitting recipients of charity. Naturally enough, these +inns, when once their usefulness became recognised, were soon to be +found in the main thoroughfares leading out of the metropolis, and they +were particularly plentiful in Southwark on each side of what we now +call the Borough High Street, extending for a quarter of a mile or more +from London Bridge along the main road to the south-eastern counties +and the Continent. The first thus established, and one of the earliest +in this country, had to some extent a religious origin--namely, the + + "Gentle hostelrye + That hight the Tabard, fasté by the Belle," + +about which and about the Southwark inns generally I propose now to say +a few words, for although well known, they are of such extreme interest +that they demand a foremost place in an account of this kind. From the +literary point of view the "Tabard" is immortalized, owing to the fact +that Chaucer has selected it as the starting-point of his pilgrims +in _The Canterbury Tales_. Historically, it may be mentioned that as +early as the year 1304 the Abbot and Convent of Hyde, near Winchester, +purchased in Southwark two tenements, on the sites of which he built +for himself a town dwelling, and at the same time, it is believed, a +hostelry for the convenience of travellers. In 1307 he obtained license +to build a chapel at or by the inn, and in a later deed we are told +that "the abbott's lodginge was wyninge to the backside of the Tabarde +and had a garden attached." From that time onwards frequent allusions +can be found to this house, the sign of which (a sleeveless coat, +such as that worn by heralds) got somehow corrupted into the Talbot, +a species of dog, by which it was known for a couple of centuries +or more, almost to the time of its final destruction. Although the +contrary has been asserted, the inn was undoubtedly burnt in the Great +Southwark Fire of 1676, but was rebuilt soon afterwards in the old +fashion, and continued to be a picturesque example of architecture +until 1875, when the whole was swept away, hop merchants' offices and a +modern "old Tabard" now occupying the site. + +Equal in interest to the last-named inn was the "White Hart." At the +one Chaucer gave life and reality to a fancied scene; at the other +occurred an historical event, the bald facts of which Shakespeare has +lighted up with a halo of romance. The White Hart appears to have dated +from the latter part of the fourteenth century, the sign being a badge +of Richard II., derived from his mother, Joan of Kent. In the summer +of 1450 it was Jack Cade's headquarters while he was striving to gain +possession of London. Hall, in his _Chronicle_, records this, and adds +that he prohibited "murder, rape and robbery by which colour he allured +to him the hartes of the common people." It was here, nevertheless, +that "one Hawaydyne of sent Martyns was beheaded," and here, during +the outbreak, a servant of Sir John Fastolf, who had property in the +neighbourhood, was with difficulty saved from assassination. His +chattels were pillaged, his wife left with "no more gode but her +kyrtyll and her smook," and he thrust into the forefront of a fight +then raging on London Bridge, where he was "woundyd and hurt nere +hand to death." Cade's success was of short duration; his followers +wavered, he said, or might have said, in the words attributed to him by +Shakespeare (2 Henry VI., act iv., scene 8), "Hath my sword therefore +broken through London gate that you should leave me at the White Hart +in Southwark?" The rebellion collapsed, and our inn is not heard of +for some generations. Want of space prevents our recording the various +vicissitudes through which it passed, and the historic names connected +with it, until the time of the Southwark Fire of 1676, when, like the +"Tabard," it was burnt down, but rebuilt on the old foundations. In +1720 Strype describes it as large and of considerable trade, and it so +continued until the time when Dickens, who was intimately acquainted +with the neighbourhood, gave his graphic description of Sam Weller +at the White Hart in the tenth chapter of _Pickwick_. In 1865-66 the +south side of the building was replaced by a modern tavern, but the +old galleries on the north and east sides remained until 1889, being +latterly let out in tenements. + +There were several other galleried inns in Southwark, dating at least +from the time of Queen Elizabeth, which survived until the nineteenth +century, but we only have space briefly to allude to three. The "King's +Head" and the "Queen's Head" was each famous in its way. The former +had been originally the "Pope's Head," the sign being changed at the +Reformation. In 1534 the Abbot of Waverley, whose town house was not +far off, writes, apparently on business, that he will be at the "Pope's +Head" in Southwark--eight years afterwards it appears as the "King's +Head." In a deed belonging to Mr. G. Eliot Hodgkin, F.S.A., the two +names are given. In the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries the house +belonged to various noteworthy people; among the rest, to Thomas Cure, +a local benefactor, and to Humble, Lord Ward. It was burnt in the +Great Southwark Fire, and the last fragment of the galleried building, +erected immediately afterwards, was pulled down in January, 1885. + +The "Queen's Head" was the only one of the Southwark houses we are +describing that escaped the Fire of 1676, perhaps owing to the fact +that, by way of precaution, a tenement was blown up at the gateway. It +stood on the site of a house called the "Crowned or Cross Keys," which +in 1529 was an armoury or store-place for the King's harness. In 1558 +it had a brew-house attached to it, and had lately been rebuilt. In +1634 the house had become the "Queen's Head," and the owner was John +Harvard, of Emmanuel College, Cambridge, who afterwards migrated to +America, and gave his name to Harvard University, Massachusetts. About +this time it was frequented by carriers, as we learn from John Taylor, +"the water-poet." The main building, destroyed in 1895, was found to +be of half-timbered construction, dating perhaps from the sixteenth +century. A galleried portion, also of considerable age, survived until +the year 1900. + +Of another Southwark inn, the "George," we can fortunately speak in +the present tense. It seems to have come into existence in the early +part of the sixteenth century, and is mentioned with the sign of "St. +George" in 1554:-- + + "St. George that swindg'd the Dragon, and e'er since + Sits on his horseback at mine hostess' door." + +The owner in 1558 was Humfrey Colet, or Collet, who had been Member +of Parliament for Southwark. Soon after the middle of the seventeenth +century, in a book called _Musarum Deliciæ, or the Muses' Recreation_, +compiled by Sir John Mennes (Admiral and Chief Comptroller of the Navy) +and Dr. James Smith, appeared some lines, "upon a surfeit caught by +drinking bad sack at 'the George' in Southwark." Perhaps the landlord +mended his ways; in any case, the rent was shortly afterwards £150 a +year--a large sum for those days. The "George" was a great coaching +and carriers' inn. Only a fragment of it, but a picturesque one, +now exists; it is still galleried, and dates from shortly after the +Southwark Fire of 1676. The rest of the building was pulled down in +1889-90. All the inns to which allusion has been made were clustered +together on the east side of the Borough High Street, the gateways of +those most distant from each other being only about 140 yards apart. + +Another leading thoroughfare from London to the east was the +road through Aldgate to Whitechapel. Here, though the houses of +entertainment were historically far less interesting than those of +Southwark, they flourished for many years. Where a modern hotel with +the same sign now stands, next to the Metropolitan railway station on +the north side of Aldgate High Street, there was once a well-known +inn, the "Three Nuns," so called, perhaps, from the contiguity of +the nuns of St. Clare, or _sorores minores_, who gave a name to the +Minories. The "Three Nuns" inn is mentioned by Defoe in his _Journal +of the Plague_, which, though it describes events that happened +when he was little more than an infant, has an air of authenticity +suggesting personal experience. We are told by him that near this inn +was the "dreadful gulf--for such it was rather than a pit"--in which, +during the Plague of 1665, not less than 1,114 bodies were buried +in a fortnight, from the 6th to the 20th of September. Throughout +the eighteenth and the early part of the nineteenth centuries this +house was much frequented by coaches and carriers. The late Mr. +Edwin Edwards, who etched it in 1871, was told by the landlord that +a four-horse coach was then running from there to Southend during +the summer months. A painting of the holy nuns still appeared on the +sign-board. The house was rebuilt soon after the formation of the +Metropolitan Railway. A short distance west of the "Three Nuns," at 31, +Aldgate High Street, the premises of Messrs. Adkin and Sons, wholesale +tobacconists, occupy the site of the old "Blue Boar" coaching inn, +which they replaced in 1861. The sculptured sign of the "Blue Boar," +let into the wall in front, was put up at the time of the rebuilding. +The former inn, described on a drawing in the Crace collection as the +oldest in London, is held by some to be the same as that referred to +in an order of the Privy Council to the Lord Mayor, dated from St. +James's, September 5th, 1557, wherein he is told to "apprehende and to +comitt to safe warde" certain actors who are about to perform in "a +lewde Playe called a Sacke full of Newse" at the "Boar's Head" without +Aldgate. + +A few years ago, at No. 25, the entrance might still be seen of another +famous inn called the "Bull," formerly the "Black Bull." Above the +gateway was a fine piece of ironwork, and the old painted sign was +against the wall of the passage. This house flourished greatly a little +before the advent of railways, when Mrs. Anne Nelson, coach proprietor, +was the landlady, and could make up nearly two hundred beds there. Most +of her business was to Essex and Suffolk, but she also owned the Exeter +coach. She must have been landlady on the memorable occasion when Mr. +Pickwick arrived in a cab after "two mile o' danger at eightpence," and +it was through this very gateway that he and his companions were driven +by the elder Weller when they started on their adventurous journey to +Ipswich. The house is now wholly destroyed and the yard built over. + +A common sign in former days was the "Saracen's Head." We shall have +occasion to refer to several in London. One of them stood by Aldgate, +just within the limits of the city. Here a block of old buildings +is in existence on the south side, which once formed the front of a +well-known coaching inn, with this sign. The spacious inn yard remains, +the house on the east side of its entrance having fine pilasters. From +the "Saracen's Head," Aldgate, coaches plied to Norwich as long ago as +1681, and here there is, or was quite recently, a carrier's booking +office. + +Another thoroughfare which, within the memory of some who hardly admit +that they are past middle age, contained several famous inns, was that +leading to the north, and known in its various parts as Gracechurch +Street and Bishopsgate Street Within and Without. One of the best known +was the "Cross Keys" in Bishopsgate Street, mentioned in the preface to +Dodsley's _Old Plays_ as a house at which theatrical performances took +place. It was here that, in the latter part of the sixteenth century, +Bankes exhibited the extraordinary feats of his horse Marocco. One +of them, if we may believe an old jest-book, was to select and draw +forth Tarlton with its mouth as "the veriest fool in the company." In +more modern times, until the advent of railways, the "Cross Keys" was +a noted coaching and carriers' establishment. Destroyed in the Great +Fire, and again burnt down in 1734, but rebuilt in the old style, it +was still standing on the west side of the street, immediately south +of Bell Yard, when Larwood and Hotten published their _History of +Signboards_ in 1866. Another inn with this sign stood appropriately +near the site of St. Peter's Church in Wood Street, Cheapside, and was +pulled down probably about the same time as the more famous house in +Gracechurch Street. + +Of equal note was the "Spread Eagle," the site of which has mostly been +absorbed by the extension of Leadenhall Market. Like the "Cross Keys," +it was burnt in the Great Fire, but rebuilt in the old style with +an ample galleried yard. In the basement some mediæval arches still +remained. At the "Spread Eagle" that original writer George Borrow +had been staying with his future wife, Mrs. Mary Clarke, and various +friends, when they were married at St. Peter's Church, Cornhill, on +April 23rd, 1840, her daughter, Henrietta, signing the register. Before +its destruction in 1865 it had been for some time a receiving office +of Messrs. Chaplin and Horne. The site, of about 1,200 square feet, +was sold for no less a sum than £95,000. Another Gracechurch inn, the +"Tabard," which long ago disappeared, had, like the immortal hostelry +in Southwark, become the "Talbot," and its site is marked by Talbot +Court. + +In Bishopsgate Street Within three galleried inns lingered long enough +to have been often seen by the writer. These were the "Bull," the +"Green Dragon," and the "Four Swans," each with something of a history, +and to them might be added the picturesque, though less important, +"Vine" and the "Flower Pot," from which last house a seventeenth +century trade token was issued. The "Bull," the most southern of these +inns, all of which were on the west side of the highway, was at least +as old as the latter part of the fifteenth century, for in one of the +chronicles of London lately edited by Mr. C. L. Kingsford, I find +it, under the date 1498, associated with a painful incident--namely, +the execution of the son of a cordwainer, "dwellyng at the Bulle in +Bisshoppesgate Strete," for calling himself the Earl of Warwick. Hall +gives his name as Ralph Wilford. Anthony Bacon, elder brother of +Francis, during the year 1594 hired a lodging in Bishopsgate Street, +but the fact of its being near the "Bull," where plays and interludes +were performed, so troubled his mother that for her sake he removed to +Chelsea. Shortly afterwards, as may be learnt from _Tarlton's Jests_, +the old drama called "The Famous Victories of Henry the Fifth" was +here played, "wherein the judge was to take a boxe on the eare, and +because he was absent that should take the blow, Tarlton himselfe, ever +forward to please, tooke upon him to play the judge, besides his own +part of the clown." The "Bull" was the house of call of old Hobson, the +carrier, to whose rigid rule about the letting of his saddle horses we +are supposed to owe the phrase, "Hobson's Choice." Milton wrote his +epitaph in the well-known lines beginning:-- + + "Here lies old Hobson; Death hath broke his girt, + And here, alas! hath laid him in the dirt." + +In his second edition of _Milton's Poems_, p. 319, Wharton alludes to +Hobson's "portrait in fresco" as having then lately been in existence +at the inn, and it is mentioned in _The Spectator_, No. 509. There is +a print of it representing a bearded old man in hat and cloak with a +money bag, which in the original painting had the inscription, "The +fruitful mother of an hundred more." He bequeathed property for a +conduit to supply Cambridge with water; the conduit head still exists, +though not in its original position. In 1649, by a Council of War, six +Puritan troopers were condemned to death for a mutiny at the "Bull." +The house remained till 1866. + +Further north, at No. 86, was the "Green Dragon," the last of the +galleried inns that survived in Bishopsgate Street. It is mentioned +in De Laune's _Present State of London_, 1681, as a place of resort +for coachmen and carriers, and I have before me an advertisement +sheet of the early nineteenth century, showing that coaches were then +plying from here to Norwich, Yarmouth, Cambridge, Colchester, Ware, +Hertford, Brighton, and many other places. There is a capital etching +of the house by Edwin Edwards. It was closed in 1877, its site being +soon afterwards built over. At the sale of the effects eleven bottles +of port wine fetched 37s. 6d. each. The "Four Swans," immediately to +the north of the inn last named, although it did not survive so long, +remained to the end a more complete specimen of its class, having three +tiers of galleries perfect on each side, and two tiers at the west end. +The "water-poet" tells us that in 1637 "a waggon or coach" came here +once a week from Hertford. Other references to it might be quoted from +books of the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, but the story told +on an advertisement sheet issued by a former landlord about a fight +here between Roundheads, led by Ireton, and a troop of Royalists, is +apocryphal. + +Not far off, in Bishopsgate Street Without, there was until lately a +"Two Swan" inn yard, and a "One Swan" with a large yard--an old place +of call for carriers and waggons. These lingered on until the general +clearance by the Great Eastern Railway Company a few years ago, when +the remains of Sir Paul Pindar's mansion, latterly a tavern, were also +removed; the finely-carved timber front and a stuccoed ceiling finding +their way into the Victoria and Albert Museum. Another old Bishopsgate +house was the "White Hart," near St. Botolph's Church, a picturesque +building with projecting storeys, and in front the date 1480, but the +actual structure was probably much less ancient. It was drawn by J. +T. Smith and others early in the nineteenth century, and did not long +survive. The site is still marked by White Hart Court. On the opposite +side of the way was an inn, the "Dolphin," which, as Stow tells us, +was given in 1513 by Margaret Ricroft, widow, with a charge in favour +of the Grey Friars. It disappeared in the first half of the eighteenth +century. The old "Catherine Wheel," a galleried inn hard by, mentioned +by De Laune in 1681, was not entirely destroyed till 1894. + +Another road out of London richly furnished with inns was that from +Newgate westward. The first one came to was the "Saracen's Head" +on Snow Hill, an important house, to which the late Mr. Heckethorn +assigned a very early origin. Whether or not it existed in the +fourteenth century, as he asserts, it was certainly flourishing when +Stow in his _Survey_ described it as "a fair and large inn for receipt +of travellers." It continued for centuries to be largely used, and +here Nicholas Nickleby and his uncle waited on Squeers, the Yorkshire +schoolmaster, whom Dickens must have modelled from various real +personages. In a _Times_ advertisement for January 3rd, 1801, I read +that "at Mr. Simpson's Academy, Wodencroft Lodge, near Greta Bridge, +Yorkshire, young gentlemen are boarded and accurately instructed in the +English, Latin, and Greek languages, writing, arithmetic, merchants' +accounts, and the most useful branches of the mathematics, at 16 +guineas per annum, if under nine years of age, and above that age +17 guineas; French taught by a native of France at 1 guinea extra. +Mr. Simpson is now in town, and may be treated with from eleven +till two o'clock every day at the 'Saracen's Head,' Snow Hill." In +the early part of last century the landlady was Sarah Ann Mountain, +coach proprietor, and worthy rival of Mrs. Nelson, of the "Bull" Inn, +Aldgate. The "Saracen's Head" disappeared in the early part of 1868, +when this neighbourhood was entirely changed by the formation of the +Holborn Viaduct. Another Snow Hill inn was the "George," or "George and +Dragon," mentioned by Strype as very large and of considerable trade. A +sculptured sign from there is in the Guildhall Museum. + +In Holborn there were once nine or ten galleried inns. We will only +allude to those still in existence within the memory of the writer. +The most famous of them, perhaps, was the "George and Blue Boar," +originally the "Blue Boar," the site of which is covered by the Inns of +Court Hotel. The house is named in the burial register of St. Andrew's, +Holborn, as early as 1616, but it is chiefly known from a story related +by the Rev. Thomas Morrice, in his _Memoir of Roger Earl of Orrery_ +(1742), that Cromwell and Ireton, in the disguise of troopers, here +intercepted a letter sewn in the flap of a saddle from Charles I. to +his Queen, in which he wrote that he was being courted by the Scotch +Presbyterians and the army, and that he thought of closing with the +former. Cromwell is supposed to have said, "From that time forward +we resolved on his ruin." The writer ventured to ask that excellent +historian, Dr. Samuel Gardiner, what he thought of the statement. In +August, 1890, he most kindly replied by letter as follows:--"The tale +has generally been repudiated without enquiry, and I am rather inclined +to believe, at least, in its substantial accuracy. The curious thing +is, that there are two lines of tradition about intercepted letters, +as it seems to me quite distinct." We may, therefore, without being +over credulous, cherish the belief that the picturesque incident +referred to was one that actually occurred. There is an advertisement +of December 27th, 1779, offering the lease of the "George and Blue +Boar," which helps us to realize the value and capacity of an important +inn of that period. We are told that it contains forty bedrooms, +stabling for fifty-two horses, seven coach-houses, and a dry ride sixty +yards long; also that it returns about £2,000 a year. In George Colman +the younger's "Heir at Law," act i., scene 2, this house is said by one +of the characters to be "in tumble downish kind of a condition," but it +survived until 1864, when it made way for the Inns of Court Hotel. + +A group of inns which remained more recently were Ridler's "Bell and +Crown," the old "Bell," and the "Black Bull," all on the north side of +Holborn. Of these, the most picturesque was the "Bell," about which I +have been able to ascertain some curious facts. The earliest notice of +it that has come to light was on the 14th of March, 1538, when William +Barde sold a messuage with garden called the "Bell," in the parish of +St. Andrew, Holborn, to Richard Hunt, citizen and girdler. The latter, +who died in 1569, gave thirty sacks of charcoal yearly for ever, as a +charge on the property, to be distributed to thirty poor persons of +the parish. After various changes of ownership, in 1679-80 it passed +into the hands of Ralph Gregge, and his grandson sold it in 1722 to +Christ's Hospital. In the deed of sale three houses are mentioned and +described as "formerly one great mansion-house or inn known as the Bell +or Blue Bell." About two years before, the front of the premises facing +Holborn had been rebuilt, when the sculptured arms of Gregge were let +into the wall in front; these arms are now at the Guildhall Museum. The +"Bell" became a coaching house of considerable reputation, that part of +the business being about the year 1836 in the hands of Messrs. B. W. +and H. Horne, who, as coach proprietors, were second only to William +Chaplin. For many years, until finally closed in September, 1897, the +house was managed by the Bunyer family. It was the last galleried inn +on the Middlesex side of the water, the galleries being perhaps as old +as the reign of Charles II. A still older portion was a cellar built of +stone immediately to the left of the entrance, which might almost have +been mediæval. The rest of the building seems to have dated from the +early part of the eighteenth century. There is a sympathetic reference +to the old "Bell" by William Black in his _Strange Adventures of a +Phæton_. Another noteworthy "Bell" Inn was that in Carter Lane, whence +Richard Quyney wrote in 1598 to his "loveing good ffrend and contreyman +Mr. Willm Shackespere," the only letter addressed to our greatest +poet which is known to exist. There is still a Bell yard connecting +Carter Lane with Knightrider Street. The first scene of the _Harlot's +Progress_, by Hogarth, is laid in front of an inn, with the sign of the +"Bell" in Wood Street. Above the door are chequers. + +A short distance west of the Holborn house was the "Crown" Inn, +latterly Ridler's "Bell and Crown," destroyed about 1899. It had been +a coaching centre, but years ago the yard was built over, and it +flourished to the end as a quiet family hotel. Next to the "Bell" on +the east side was the "Black Bull," the front of which, with the carved +sign of a bull in a violent state of excitement, remained after the +rest of the inn had disappeared, outliving its neighbour for a brief +period. It was in existence for a couple of hundred years or more, but +future generations will probably only remember it as the house where +Mr. Lewson was taken ill, and placed under the tender mercies of Betsy +Prig and Mrs. Gamp; whence also, when convalescent, he was assisted +into a coach, Mould the undertaker eyeing him with regret as he felt +himself baulked of a piece of legitimate business. + +A few short years ago if, on leaving this group of Holborn inns, we had +turned down Fetter Lane in the direction of Fleet Street, after passing +two or three gabled buildings still standing on the right hand side, +we should have come to another old hostelry called the "White Horse," +of which there is a well-known coloured print from a drawing made by +Pollard in 1814, with a coach in front called the Cambridge Telegraph. +It gradually fell into decay, became partly a "pub" and partly a common +lodging-house, and with its roomy stabling at the back was swept away +in 1897-98. Most of the structure was of the eighteenth century, +but there were remains of an earlier wooden building. Its northern +boundary touched the precinct of Barnard's Inn, an inn of chancery, now +disestablished and adapted for the purposes of the Mercers' School. + +Continuing our course southward, a short walk would formerly have taken +us to the "Bolt-in-Tun," I think the only coaching establishment in +Fleet Street, which possessed so many taverns and coffee-houses. The +inn was of ancient origin, the White Friars having had a grant of the +"Hospitium vocatum Le Bolt en ton" as early as the year 1443. The sign +is the well-known rebus on the name of Bolton, the bird-bolt through a +tun or barrel, which was the device of a prior of St. Bartholomew's, +Smithfield, and may still be seen in the church there, and at +Canonbury, where the priors had a country house. The _City Press_ for +September 12th, 1882, announces the then impending destruction of the +"Bolt-in-Tun," and in the following year we are told that although a +remnant of it in Fleet Street exists as a booking office for parcels, +by far the larger portion, represented chiefly by the Sussex Hotel, +Bouverie Street, which bore on it the date 1692, has just disappeared. + +Further east, on Ludgate Hill, La Belle Sauvage Yard, where Messrs. +Cassell & Co. carry on their important business, marks the site of an +historic house, and perpetuates an error of nomenclature. Its original +title, as proved by a document of the year 1452, was "Savage's" Inn, +otherwise called the "Bell on the Hoop," but in the seventeenth century +a trade token was issued from here, having on it an Indian woman +holding a bow and arrow, and in 1676 "Bell Sauvage" Inn, on Ludgate +Hill, consisting of about forty rooms, with good cellarage and stabling +for about one hundred horses, was to be let. The mistake is repeated +in _The Spectator_, No. 28, where we are told of a beautiful girl who +was found in the wilderness, and whose fame was perpetuated in a French +romance. As we learn from Howe, in his continuation of _Stow's Annals_, +on a seat outside this inn Sir Thomas Wyat rested, after failing in an +attempt to enter the city during his ill-advised rebellion in the reign +of Mary Tudor. From Lambarde we gather that this was one of the houses +where plays were performed before the time of Shakespeare. Writing in +1576, he says, "Those who go to Paris Garden, the Bell Savage, or the +Theatre to behold bear-baiting, interludes, or fence play, must not +account of any pleasant spectacle unless first they pay one pennie +at the gate, another at the entrie of the scaffold, and a third for +quiet standing." Here, as at the "Cross Keys," Gracechurch Street, +Bankes exhibited his horse, and here, in 1683, "a very strange beast +called a Rhynoceros--the first that ever was in England," could be seen +daily. Stow affirms the inn to have been given to the Cutlers' Company +by Isabella Savage; but, in fact, the donor was John Craythorne, who +conveyed the reversion of it to them in 1568. The sculptured elephant +and castle representing their crest is still on a wall in La Belle +Sauvage Yard. The inn, which has left its mark in the annals of +coaching, was taken down in 1873. + +A thoroughfare, formerly containing several fine mansions and various +inns for travellers, was Aldersgate Street, the continuation of St. +Martin's-le-Grand. There are allusions in print to the "Bell," the +"George" (previously the "White Hart"), and to the "Cock" Inn, where, +after years of wandering, Fynes Moryson arrived one Sunday morning in +1595; but these all passed away long ago. The last to linger in the +neighbourhood was the "Bull and Mouth," St Martin's-le-Grand, finally +called the "Queen's" Hotel, absorbed by the General Post Office in +1886. The name is generally supposed to be a corruption of Boulogne +Mouth, the entrance to Boulogne Harbour, that town having been taken +by Henry VIII. George Steevens, the Shakespearean commentator, seems +to have suggested this, and his idea has been generally accepted; but +it is more likely that our inn was identical with the house called in +1657 "the Mouth near Aldersgate in London, then the usual meeting-place +for Quakers," to which the Body of John Lilburne was conveyed in August +of that year. We learn from Ellwood's _Autobiography_ that five years +afterwards he was arrested at the "Bull and Mouth," Aldersgate. The +house was at its zenith as a coaching centre in the early years of the +nineteenth century, when Edward Sherman had become landlord. He rebuilt +the old galleried house in 1830. When coaching for business purposes +ceased to be, the gateway from St. Martin's-le-Grand was partially +blocked up and converted into the main entrance, the inn continuing +under its changed name for many years. The sculptured signs were not +removed until the destruction of the building. One, which was over the +main entrance, is a statuette of a Bull within a gigantic open Mouth; +below are bunches of grapes; above, a bust of Edward VI. and the arms +of Christ's Hospital, to which institution the ground belonged. Beneath +is a tablet inscribed with the following doggerel rhyme:-- + + "Milo the Cretonian an ox slew with his fist, + And ate it up at one meal, ye Gods what a glorious twist." + +Another version of the sign, the Mouth appearing below the Bull, was +over what had been a back entrance to the yard in Angel Street. These +signs are now both in the Guildhall Museum. I had almost overlooked +one house, the "Castle and Falcon," Aldersgate, closed within the last +few months, and now destroyed. The structure was uninteresting, but it +stood on an old site--that of John Day's printing-house in the reign of +Queen Elizabeth. At the present inn on April 12th, 1799, was founded +the Church Missionary Society; here also its centenary was celebrated. + +Besides being plentiful in the main thoroughfares, important inns, +like the churches, were often crammed away in narrow and inconvenient +lanes. This was the case with the "Oxford Arms" and the "Bell," both +in Warwick Lane. The former was approached by a passage, being bounded +on the west by the line of the old city wall, or by a later wall a few +feet to the east of it, and touching Amen Corner on the south. It was a +fine example of its kind. As was said by a writer in _The Athenæum_ of +May 20th, 1876, just before it was destroyed: + + "Despite the confusion, the dirt and the decay, he who stands + in the yard of this ancient inn may get an excellent idea of + what it was like in the days of its prosperity, when not only + travellers in coach or saddle rode into or out of the yard, + but poor players and mountebanks set up their stage for the + entertainment of spectators, who hung over the galleries or + looked on from their rooms--a name by which the boxes of a + theatre were first known." + +The house must have been rebuilt after the Great Fire, which raged +over this area. That it existed before is proved by the following odd +advertisement of March, 1672-73: + + "These are to give notice that Edward Bartlet, Oxford Carrier, + hath removed his inn in London from the Swan at Holborn Bridge + to the Oxford Arms in Warwick Lane, where he did Inn before + the Fire. His coaches and waggons going forth on their usual + days, Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays. He hath also a hearse + and all things convenient to carry a Corps to any part of + England." + +The "Bell" Inn, also galleried, was on the east side of Warwick Lane. +There Archbishop Leighton died in 1684. As Burnet tells us, he had +often said that "if he were to choose a place to die in it should be an +Inn; it looked like a pilgrim's going home, to whom this world was all +as an Inn, and who was weary of the noise and confusion in it." Thus +his desire was fulfilled. There is a view of the old house in Chambers' +_Book of Days_, vol. i., p. 278. It was demolished in 1865, when the +value of the unclaimed parcels, some of which had been there many +years, is said to have been considerable. According to one statement, +the jewellery was worth £700 or £800. + +The few remaining inns to which reference will be made may best perhaps +be taken in alphabetical order. The old "Angel" Inn, at the end of Wych +Street, Strand, already existed in February, 1503, when a letter was +directed to Sir Richard Plumpton "at the Angell behind St. Clement's +Kirk." From this inn Bishop Hooper was taken to Gloucester in 1554 to +be burnt at the stake. A trade token was issued there in 1657. Finally, +the business, largely dependent on coaches, faded away; the building +was rased to the ground in 1853, and the set of offices called Danes +Inn built on the site. These in their turn have now succumbed. The +"Axe" in Aldermanbury was a famous carriers' inn. It is mentioned in +drunken Barnabee's _Journal_, and from there the first line of stage +waggons from London to Liverpool was established about the middle of +the seventeenth century. It took many days to perform the journey. + +In Laurence Lane, near the Guildhall, was a noteworthy house called +"Blossoms" Inn, which, according to Stow, had "to sign St. Laurence the +Deacon in a border of blossoms of flowers." In 1522, when the Emperor +Charles V. came to visit Henry VIII. in London, certain inns were set +apart for the reception of his retinue, among them "St. Laurence, +otherwise called Bosoms Yn, was to have ready XX beddes and a stable +for LX horses." In Ben Jonson's _Masque of Christmas_, presented +at Court in 1616, "Tom of Bosomes Inn," apparently a real person, +is introduced as representing Mis-rule. That the house was early +frequented by carriers is shown in the epistle dedicatory to _Have at +you at Saffron Walden_, 1596:--"Yet have I naturally cherisht and hugt +it in my bosome, even as a carrier at Bosome's Inne doth a cheese under +his arm." A satirical tract about Bankes and his horse Marocco gives +the name of the authors as "John Dande the wiredrawer of Hadley, and +Harrie Hunt head ostler of Bosomes inn." There is a view of this famous +hostelry in the Crace collection, date 1855; the yard is now a depôt +for railway goods. + +In 1852 London suffered a sad loss architecturally by the removal of +the fine groined crypt of Gerard's Hall, Basing Lane, which dated +perhaps from the end of the thirteenth century, and had formed part of +the mansion of a famous family of citizens, by name Gysors. In Stow's +time it was "a common hostrey for receipt of travellers." He gives a +long account of it, mixing fact with fiction. The house and hall were +destroyed in the Great Fire, but the crypt escaped, and on it an inn +was built with, in front, a carved wooden effigy of that mythical +personage, Gerard the Giant, which is now in the Guildhall Museum. On +the removal of the crypt the stones were numbered and presented to the +Crystal Palace Company, with a view to its erection in their building +or grounds. It is said, however, that after a time the stones were used +for mending roads. + +A rather unimportant-looking inn was the "Nag's Head," on the east side +of Whitcomb Street, formerly Hedge Lane, but it is worthy of mention +for one or two reasons. We learn from a manuscript note-book, which +was in the possession of the late Mr. F. Locker Lampson, that Hogarth +in his later days, when he set up a coach and horses, kept them at the +"Nag's Head." He was then living on the east side of Leicester Square. +According to a pencil note on an old drawing, which belongs to the +writer, "this inn did the posting exclusively for the Royal family from +George I. to William IV." It was latterly used as a livery stable, but +retained its picturesque galleries until, the lease having come to an +end, it was closed in 1890. The space remained vacant for some years, +and is now covered by the fine publishing office of Messrs. Macmillan & +Co. + +Two "Saracen's Head" inns have already been described, and though +one feels how imperfect this account must of necessity be, and that +some houses of note are altogether omitted, I am tempted to mention +a third--the house with that sign in Friday Street. It came into the +hands of the Merchant Taylors' Company as early as the year 1400, and +after several rebuildings was finally swept away in 1844. The adjoining +house, said by tradition to have been occupied by Sir Christopher Wren, +was destroyed at the same time. + +It was in the early thirties of last century that coaching reached +its zenith, and perhaps the greatest coaching centre in London was +the "Swan with Two Necks," Lad Lane. It was an old inn, mentioned by +Machyn as early as 1556. In 1637 carriers from Manchester and other +places used to lodge there, but it will be best remembered as it +appears in a well-known print during the heyday of its prosperity, the +courtyard crowded with life and movement. The gateway was so narrow +that it required some horsemanship to drive a fast team out of the said +courtyard, and some care on the part of the guard that his horn or +bugle basket was not jammed against the gate-post. The proprietor of +this establishment was Mr. William Chaplin who, originally a coachman, +became perhaps the greatest coach proprietor that ever lived. About +1835 he occupied the yards of no fewer than five famous and important +inns in London, to all of which allusion has been made--the "Spread +Eagle" and "Cross Keys" in Gracechurch Street, the "Swan with Two +Necks," the "White Horse," Fetter Lane, and the "Angel" behind St. +Clement's. He had 1,300 horses at work on various roads, and about +that time horsed fourteen out of the twenty-seven coaches leaving +London every night. When the railways came he bowed to the inevitable, +and, in partnership with Mr. Horne, established the great carrying +business, which still flourishes on the site of the old "Swan with +Two Necks." In 1845 Lad Lane was absorbed by Gresham Street. The +origin of the sign has been often discussed, but it is perhaps well +to conclude this chapter by adding a few words about it. The swans on +the upper reaches of the Thames are owned respectively by the Crown +and the Dyers and the Vintners' Company, and, according to ancient +custom, the representatives of these several owners make an excursion +each year up the river to mark the cygnets. The visitors' mark used to +consist of the chevron or letter V and two nicks on the beak. The word +nicks has been corrupted into necks, and as the Vintners were often +tavern-keepers, the "Swan with Two Necks" became a common sign. + + + + +THE OLD LONDON COFFEE-HOUSES + +BY G. L. APPERSON, I.S.O. + + +For something like a century and a half the coffee-houses formed a +distinctive feature of London life. The first is said to have been +established by a man named Bowman, servant to a Turkey merchant, who +opened a coffee-house in St. Michael's Alley, Cornhill, in 1652. The +honour of being the second has been claimed for the "Rainbow" in Fleet +Street, by the Inner Temple Gate, opposite Chancery Lane. Aubrey, +speaking of Sir Henry Blount, a beau in the time of Charles II., says: +"When coffee first came in, he was a great upholder of it, and had +ever since been a constant frequenter of coffee-houses, especially +Mr. Farre's, at the 'Rainbow,' by Inner Temple Gate." But according +to _The Daily Post_ of May 15th, 1728, "Old Man's" Coffee-house, +at Charing Cross, "was the Second that was set up in the Cities of +London and Westminster." The question of priority, however, is of no +importance. It is quite certain that in a surprisingly short space of +time coffee-houses became very numerous. A manuscript of 1659, quoted +in _The Gentleman's Magazine_ for 1852 (Part I., pp. 477-9), says that +at that date there was + + "a Turkish drink to be sould almost in eury street, called + Coffee, and another kind of drink called Tee, and also a drink + called Chocolate, which was a very harty drink." + +Tea made its way slowly; but coffee took the town by storm. + +The coffee-houses, as resorts for men of different classes and +occupations, survived till the early years of the nineteenth +century; but their palmy days were over some time before the end of +the eighteenth century. They were at the height of their fame and +usefulness from the Restoration till the earlier years of George III.'s +reign. + +From the description given in _The Spectator_ and other contemporary +writings--such as "facetious" Tom Brown's _Trip through London_ of +1728, and the like--it is easy to reconstruct in imagination the +interior of one of these resorts as they appeared in the time of +Queen Anne. Occasionally the coffee-room, as at the famous "Will's" +in Russell Street, Covent Garden, was on the first floor. Tables +were disposed about the sanded floor--the erection of boxes did not +come in until a later date--while on the walls were numerous flaming +advertisements of quack medicines, pills and tinctures, salves and +electuaries, which were as abundant then as now, and of other wares +which might be bought at the bar. The bar was at the entrance to the +temple of coffee and gossip, and was presided over by the predecessors +of the modern barmaids--grumbled at in _The Spectator_ as "idols," who +there received homage from their admirers, and who paid more attention +to customers who flirted with them than to more sober-minded visitors; +and described by Tom Brown as "a charming Phillis or two, who invite +you by their amorous glances into their smoaky territories." + +At the bar messages were left and letters taken in for regular +customers. In the early days of Swift's friendship with Addison, +Stella was instructed to address her letters to the former under +cover to Addison at the "St. James's" Coffee-house, in St. James's +Street; but as the friendship between the two men cooled the cover was +dispensed with, and the letters were addressed to Swift himself at the +coffee-house, where they were placed, doubtless with many others, in +the glass frame behind the bar. Stella's handwriting was very like that +of her famous correspondent, and one day Harley, afterwards Earl of +Oxford, seeing one of Stella's letters in the glass frame and thinking +the writing was Swift's, asked the latter, when he met him shortly +afterwards, how long he had learned the trick of writing to himself. +Swift says he could hardly persuade him that he was mistaken in the +writing. + +The coffee-houses were the haunts of clubs and coteries almost from the +date of their first establishment. Steele, in the familiar introduction +to _The Tatler_, tells us how accounts of gallantry, pleasure and +entertainment were to come from "White's" Chocolate-house; poetry from +"Will's" Coffee-house; learning from the "Grecian"; and foreign and +domestic news from the "St. James's." Nearly fifty years later, Bonnell +Thornton, in the first number of _The Connoisseur_, January 31st, 1754, +similarly enumerates some of the leading houses. "White's" was still +the fashionable resort; "Garraway's" was for stock-jobbers; "Batson's" +for doctors; the "Bedford" for "wits" and men of parts; the "Chapter" +for book-sellers; and "St. Paul's" for the clergy. Mackay, in his +_Journey through England_, published in 1724, says that + + "about twelve the _beau-monde_ assembles in several chocolate + and coffee-houses, the best of which are the Cocoa Tree and + White's Chocolate-houses, St. James's, the Smyrna, and the + British Coffee-houses; and all these so near one another that + in less than an hour you see the company of them all.... + I must not forget to tell you that the parties have their + different places, where, however, a stranger is always well + received; but a Whig will no more go to the Cocoa Tree or + Ozinda's than a Tory will be seen at the coffee-house of + St. James's. The Scots go generally to the British, and a + mixture of all sorts to the Smyrna. There are other little + coffee-houses much frequented in this neighbourhood--Young + Man's for officers, Old Man's for stock-jobbers, paymasters, + and courtiers, and Little Man's for sharpers." + +It was only natural that people of similar occupations or tastes should +gravitate in their hours of leisure to common social centres, and no +one classification, such as that just quoted, can exhaust the subject. + +The devotees of whist had their own houses. The game began to be +popular about 1730, and some of those who first played scientific +whist--possibly including Hoyle himself--were accustomed to meet at the +"Crown" Coffee-house in Bedford Row. Other groups soon met at other +houses. A pirated edition of Hoyle's _Whist_, printed at Dublin in +1743, contains an advertisement of "A Short Treatise on the Game of +Whist, as play'd at Court, White's, and George's Chocolate-houses, at +Slaughter's, and the Crown Coffee-houses, etc., etc." At "Rawthmell's" +Coffee-house in Henrietta Street, Covent Garden, the Society of Arts +was founded in 1754. "Old Slaughter's" in St. Martin's Lane was a +great resort in the second half of the eighteenth century of artists. +Here Roubillac the sculptor, Hogarth, Bourguignon or Gravelot the book +illustrator, Moser the keeper of the St. Martin's Lane Academy, Luke +Sullivan the engraver, and many others of the fraternity were wont +to foregather. Near by was "Young Slaughter's," a meeting-place for +scientific and literary men. + +R. L. Edgeworth, in his _Memoirs_ (p. 118, Ed. 1844), says:-- + + "I was introduced by Mr. Keir into a society of literary + and scientific men, who used formerly to meet once a week + at Jack's Coffee-house [_i.e., circa 1780_] in London, and + afterwards at Young Slaughter's Coffee-house. Without any + formal name, this meeting continued for years to be frequented + by men of real science and of distinguished merit. John Hunter + was our chairman. Sir Joseph Banks, Solander, Sir A. Blagden, + Dr. George Fordyce, Milne, Maskelyne, Captain Cook, Sir G. + Shuckburgh, Lord Mulgrave, Smeaton and Ramsden, were among + our members. Many other gentlemen of talents belonged to this + club, but I mention those only with whom I was individually + acquainted." + +A favourite resort of men of letters during the middle and later years +of the eighteenth century was the "Bedford" Coffee-house, under the +Piazza, in Covent Garden. This house, it may be said, inherited the +tradition from Button's, which that famous coffee-house had taken +over from Will's. To the "Bedford" came Fielding, Foote, Garrick, +Churchill, Sheridan, Hogarth, and many another man of note. Another +haunt of literary men, as well as of book-sellers, was the "Chapter" +Coffee-house in Paternoster Row. Chatterton wrote to his mother in +May, 1770: "I am quite familiar at the 'Chapter' Coffee-house, and +know all the geniuses there." Goldsmith was one of its frequenters. +It was here that he came to sup one night as the invited guest of +Churchill's friend, Charles Lloyd. The supper was served and enjoyed, +whereupon Lloyd, without a penny in his pocket to pay for the meal +he had ordered, coolly walked off and left Goldsmith to discharge +the reckoning. It was at the same house that Foote, one day when a +distressed player passed his hat round the coffee-room circle with an +appeal for help, made the malicious remark: "If Garrick hear of this he +will certainly send in his hat." + +Close by was the "St. Paul's" Coffee-house, where, according to Bonnell +Thornton, "tattered crapes," or poor parsons, were wont to ply "for an +occasional burial or sermon, with the same regularity as the happier +drudges who salute us with the cry of 'Coach, sir,' or 'Chair, your +honour.'" The same writer relates how a party of bucks, by a hoaxing +proffer of a curacy, "drew all the poor parsons to 'St. Paul's' +Coffee-house, where the bucks themselves sat in another box to smoke +their rusty wigs and brown cassocks." + +Business men gathered at "Jonathan's" and "Garraway's," both in +Exchange Alley, where the sale and purchase of stocks and bonds and +merchandise of every kind formed the staple talk. The former house +was a centre of operations for both bubblers and bubbled in the mania +year of 1720. "Lloyd's" Coffee-house was for very many years a famous +auction mart. + + "Then to Lloyd's coffee-house he never fails, + To read the letters, and attend the sales," + +says the author of _The Wealthy Shopkeeper_, published in 1700. +Addison, in No. 46 of _The Spectator_, tells how he was accustomed to +make notes or "minutes" of anything likely to be useful for future +papers, and of how one day he accidentally dropped one of these papers +at "Lloyd's Coffee-house, where the auctions are usually kept." It was +picked up and passed from hand to hand, to the great amusement of all +who saw it. Finally, the "boy of the coffee-house," having in vain +asked for the owner of the paper, was made "to get up into the auction +pulpit and read it to the whole room." The "Jerusalem" Coffee-house, in +Exchange Alley, was for generations the resort of merchants and traders +interested in the East. + +The doctors met at "Batson's" or "Child's." The pseudonymous author +of Don Manoel Gonzales' _Voyage to Great Britain_, 1745, speaking of +the London physicians, says: "You find them at Batson's or Child's +Coffee-house usually in the morning, and they visit their patients +in the afternoon." The Jacobites had two well-known houses of +call--"Bromefield's" Coffee-house in Spring Gardens, and, later, the +"Smyrna" in Pall Mall. Mr. J. H. MacMichael, in his valuable book on +_Charing Cross_, 1906, quotes an order "given at their Majesties' Board +of Green Cloth at Hampton Court" in 1689, to Sir Christopher Wren, +Surveyor of Their Majesties' Works, to have "bricked or otherwise +so closed up as you shall judge most fit for the security of their +Majesties' Palace of Whitehall" a certain door which led out of +Buckingham Court into Spring Garden, because Bromefield's Coffee-house +in that court was resorted to by "a great and numerous concourse +of Papists and other persons disaffected to the Government." Mr. +MacMichael suggests that probably "Bromefield's" was identical with +the coffee-house known as "Young Man's." "The Smyrna," in Pall Mall, +was the Jacobite resort in Georgian days. It was also a house of many +literary associations. Thomson, the poet, there received subscriptions +for his _Seasons_; Swift and Prior and Arbuthnot frequented it. In +1703 Lord Peterborough wrote to Arbuthnot from Spain:--"I would faine +save Italy and yett drink tea with you at the Smirna this Winter." But +it is impossible to catalogue fully all the different coffee-house +centres. The "Grecian" in Devereux Court, Strand, was devoted to +learning; barristers frequented "Serle's," at the corner of Serle and +Portugal Streets, Lincoln's Inn Fields; the Templars went to "Dick's," +and later to the "Grecian"; and so the list might be prolonged. + +In the earlier days of the coffee-houses the coterie or club of regular +frequenters foregathered by the fire, or in some particular part of +the general room, or in an inner room. At "Will's" in Russell Street, +Covent Garden, where Mr. Pepys used to drop in to hear the talk, +Dryden, the centre of the literary circle which there assembled, had +his big arm-chair in winter by the fireside, and in summer on the +balcony. Around him gathered many men of letters, including Addison, +Wycherley, Congreve, and the juvenile Pope, and all who aspired to +be known as "wits." On the outskirts of the charmed circle hovered +the more humble and modest frequenters of the coffee-room, who were +proud to obtain the honour even of a pinch of snuff from the poet's +box. Across the road at "Button's," a trifle later, Addison became the +centre of a similar circle, though here the tone was political quite +as much as literary. Whig men of letters discussed politics as well as +books. Steele, Tickell, Budgell, Rowe, and Ambrose Phillips were among +the leading figures in this coterie. Pope was of it for a time, but +withdrew after his quarrel with Addison. + +Whig politicians met at the "St. James's"; and Addison, in a +_Spectator_ of 1712, pictures the scene. A rumour of the death of Louis +XIV. had set the tongues going of all the gossips and quidnuncs in +town; and the essayist relates how he made a tour of the town to hear +how the news was received, and to catch the drift of popular opinion +on so momentous an event. In the course of his peregrinations the +silent gentleman visited the "St. James's," where he found the whole +outer room in a buzz of politics. The quality of the talk improved as +he advanced from the door to the upper end of the room; but the most +thorough-going politicians were to be found "in the inner room, with +the steam of the coffee-pot," and in this sanctum, says the humorist, +"I heard the whole Spanish monarchy disposed of, and all the line of +Bourbon provided for, in less than a quarter of an hour." + +In later days coffee-house clubs became more exclusive. The members of +a club or coterie were allotted a room of their own, to which admission +ceased to be free and open, and thus was marked the beginning of the +transition from the coffee-house of the old style to the club-house +of the new. In _The Gentleman's Magazine_ for 1841 (Part II., pp. +265-9) is printed a paper of proposals, dated January 23rd, 1768, for +enlarging the accommodation for the club accustomed to meet at Tom's +Coffee-house, Great Russell Street, Covent Garden, by taking into the +coffee-room the first floor of the adjoining house. Admission to this +club was obtained by ballot. + +Coffee-houses were frequented for various purposes besides coffee, +conversation, and business--professional or otherwise. The refreshments +supplied were by no means confined to such innocuous beverages +as tea and coffee and chocolate. Wines and spirits were freely +consumed--"laced" coffee, or coffee dashed with brandy, being decidedly +popular. Swift relates how on the occasion of his christening the +child of Elliot, the proprietor of the "St. James's," he sat at the +coffee-house among some "scurvy companions" over a bowl of punch so +late that when he came home he had no time to write to Stella. The +prolonged sittings and too copious libations of the company at Button's +Coffee-house gave the feeble and delicate Pope many a headache; and +Addison, who was notoriously a hard drinker, did not, we may feel +sure, confine himself during those prolonged sittings to coffee. + +The coffee-houses were also public reading-rooms. There could be read +the newspapers and other periodical publications of the day. When Sir +Roger de Coverley entered "Squire's," near Gray's Inn Gate, he "called +for a clean pipe, a paper of tobacco, a dish of coffee, a wax candle, +and _The Supplement_." + +Mackay, in his _Journey through England_, already quoted, says that "in +all the Coffee-houses you have not only the foreign prints, but several +English ones with the Foreign Occurrences, besides papers of morality +and party disputes." Swift, writing to Stella, November 18th, 1711, +says, "Do you read the _Spectators_? I never do; they never come in my +way; I go to no coffee-houses"; and when _The Tatler_ had disappeared, +a little earlier, Gay wrote that "the coffee-houses began to be +sensible that the Esquire's lucubrations alone had brought them more +customers than all their other newspapers put together." Periodical +publications were filed for reference; and at all the better houses +_The London Gazette_, and, during the session, the Parliamentary Votes +could be seen. At least one house possessed a library. This was the +"Chapter," in Paternoster Row, already referred to as a literary haunt. +Dr. Thomas Campbell, the author of a _Diary of a Visit to England in +1775_, which was published at Sydney in 1854, says that he had heard +that the "Chapter" was remarkable for a large collection of books and a +reading society. + +The coffee-houses served as writing-rooms as well as reading-rooms. +Many of Steele's numerous love-letters to "dear Prue," the lady who +became his wife, the lovely Mary Scurlock, written both before and +after his marriage, are dated from the "St. James's," the "Tennis +Court," "Button's," or other coffee-house. But a popular coffee-room +could hardly have been an ideal place for either reading or writing. A +poet of 1690 says that + + "The murmuring buzz which thro' the room was sent, + Did bee-hives' noise exactly represent, + And like a bee-hive, too, 'twas filled, and thick, + All tasting of the Honey Politick + Called 'News,' which they all greedily sucked in." + +And many years later, Gilly Williams, in a letter to George Selwyn, +dated November 1st, 1764, says: "I write this in a full coffee-house, +and with such materials, that you have good luck if you can read two +lines of it." + +A curious proof of the close and intimate way in which the +coffee-houses were linked with social life is to be seen in the +occasional references, both in dramatic and prose literature, to +some of the well-known servants of the coffee-houses. Steele, in the +first number of _The Tatler_, refers familiarly to Humphrey Kidney, +the waiter and keeper of book debts at the "St. James's"--he "has the +ear of the greatest politicians that come hither"--and when Kidney +resigned, it was advertised that he had been "succeeded by John +Sowton, to whose place of caterer of messages and first coffee-grinder +William Bird is promoted, and Samuel Bardock comes as shoe-cleaner in +the room of the said Bird." "Robin, the Porter who waits at Will's +Coffee-house," plays a prominent part in a little romance narrated in +No. 398 of _The Spectator_. He is described as "the best man in the +town for carrying a billet; the fellow has a thin body, swift step, +demure looks, sufficient sense, and knows the town." A waiter of the +same name at Locket's, in Spring Gardens, is alluded to in Congreve's +_The Way of the World_, where the fashionable Lady Wishfort, when she +threatens to marry a "drawer" (or waiter), says, "I'll send for Robin +from Locket's immediately." + +The coffee-houses were employed as agencies for the sale of many +things other than their own refreshments. Most of them sold the quack +medicines that were staringly advertised on their walls. Some sold +specific proprietary articles. A newspaper advertisement of 1711 says +that the water of Epsom Old Well was "pumped out almost every night, +that you may have the new mineral every morning," and that "the water +is sold at Sam's Coffee-house in Ludgate Street, Hargrave's at the +Temple Gate, Holtford's at the lower end of Queen's Street near Thames +Street, and nowhere else in London." A "Ticket of the seal of the +Wells" was affixed, so that purchasers "might not be cheated in their +waters." The "Royal" Coffee-house at Charing Cross, which flourished in +the time of Charles II., sold "Anderson's Pills"--a compound of cloves, +jalap, and oil of aniseed. At the same house were to be had tickets for +the various county feasts, then popular, which were an anticipation of +the annual dinners of county associations so common nowadays. + +Razor-strops of a certain make were to be bought in 1705 at John's +Coffee-house, Exchange Alley. In 1742 it was advertised that "silver +tickets" (season tickets) for Ranelagh Gardens were to be had at any +hour of the day at Forrest's Coffee-house, near Charing Cross. "All +Sorts of the newest fashion'd Tye Perukes, made of fresh string, Humane +Hair, far exceeding any Country Work," were advertised in 1725 as to be +bought at Brown's Coffee-house in Spring Gardens. + +House agents, professional men, and other folk of more questionable +kind, were all wont to advertise that they could be seen by clients +at this or that coffee-house. The famous and impudent Mrs. Mapp, "the +bone-setter," drove into town daily from Epsom in her own carriage, +and was to be seen (and heard) at the "Grecian." Most of the houses +were willing to receive letters in answer to advertisements, and +from the nature of the latter must often, it is pretty certain, have +been assisting parties to fraud and chicanery of various kind. At +some houses, besides those like Lloyd's specially devoted to auction +business, sales were held. A black boy was advertised to be sold at +Denis's Coffee-house in Finch Lane in 1708. In the middle of the +eighteenth century sales were often held at the "Apollo" Coffee-house, +just within Temple Bar, and facing Temple Gate. Picture sales were +usually held at coffee-houses. The catalogue of one such sale, held at +the "Barbadoes" Coffee-house in February, 1689/90, contains a glowing +address on the art of painting by Millington, the Auctioneer, written +in the style made famous later by George Robins. Says the eloquent +Millington: + + "This incomparable art at the same time informs the Judgment, + pleases the Fancy, recreates the Eye, and touches the Soul, + entertains the Curious with silent Instruction, by expressing + our most noble Passions, and never fails of rewarding its + admirers with the greatest Pleasures, so Innocent and + Ravishing, that the severest Moralists, the Morosest _Stoicks_ + cannot be offended therewith," + +and so on and so on. + +Many of the early book sales, too, were held at coffee-houses. The +third book auction in England, that of the library of the Rev. William +Greenhill, was held on February 18th, 1677/78, "in the House of +Ferdinand Stable, Coffee-Seller, at the Sign of the 'Turk's Head,'" in +Bread Street. When sales were held elsewhere, catalogues could usually +be had at some of the leading coffee-houses. + +Besides serving as reading, writing and sale rooms, they seem sometimes +to have been used as lecture rooms. William Whiston, in his _Memoirs_ +written by himself (1749), says: + + "Mr. Addison, with his friend Sir Richard Steele, brought me + upon my banishment from Cambridge, to have many astronomical + lectures at Mr. Button's coffee-house, near Covent Garden, to + the agreeable entertainment of a great number of persons, and + the procuring me and my family some comfortable support under + my banishment." + +Some of the houses, as an additional attraction to visitors, offered +exhibitions of collections of curiosities. The most famous collection +of this kind was that to be seen for many years at Don Saltero's +Coffee-house at Chelsea. Don Saltero, by the way, was simply plain +James Salter disguised. Some of his exhibits were supplied by his +former master, Sir Hans Sloane, and by other scientific friends and +patrons. But mixed with things of genuine interest were to be seen all +sorts of rubbish. Steele made fun of the collection in _The Tatler_. +But people came to see the "piece of nun's skin tanned," "Job's tears, +which grow on a tree, and of which anodyne necklaces are made," a +"waistcoat to prevent sweating," and the many other strange articles +which were shown side by side with the wooden shoe (of doubtful +authenticity, one would think) which was placed under Mr. Speaker's +chair in the time of James II., the King of Morocco's tobacco pipe, +Oliver Cromwell's sword, and the like "historical" curiosities; and +Mr. Salter had no reason to be dissatisfied with the results of his +ingenuity. The most interesting association of this coffee-house, +perhaps, is Pennant's story of how it was frequented by Richard +Cromwell, the quondam Lord Protector, described in his peaceful age as +"a little and very neat old man, with a most placid countenance, the +effect of his innocent and unambitious life." + +Not far from Don Saltero's was the old Chelsea Bun-house, which also +contained a museum. The last relics of this collection were sold in +April, 1839, and included a few pictures, plaster casts, a model of +the bun-house, another, in cut paper, of St. Mary Redcliff Church, and +other things of a still more trumpery character. + +Richard Thoresby tells us that when he was in London, in the summer +of 1714, he met his "old friend Dr. Sloane at the coffee-house of Mr. +Miers, who hath a handsome collection of curiosities in the room where +the virtuosi meet." As the name of the proprietor only is given, it is +not easy to identify this house, but possibly it was the "Grecian" in +Devereux Court, which was a favourite resort of the learned. It was +at the "Grecian," by the way, that Goldsmith, in the latter years of +his life, was often the life and soul of the Templars who were wont +to meet there. In their company he sometimes amused himself with the +flute, or with whist--"neither of which he played very well." When he +took what he called a "Shoemaker's holiday," Goldsmith, after his day's +excursion, "concluded by supping at the 'Grecian' or 'Temple-Exchange' +Coffee-house, or at the 'Globe' in Fleet Street." + +A word must be said as to the manners of the frequenters of +coffee-houses. The author of _A Trip through London_, 1728, tells +of fops who stare you out of countenance, and describes one man as +standing with his back to the fire "in a great coffee-house near the +Temple," and there spouting poetry--a remarkable specimen, indeed, of +the bore; but on the whole the evidence goes to show that bad manners +were usually resented by the rest of the company, and that good humour +and good manners were marked characteristics of coffee-house life. +There were exceptional incidents, of course. A fatal duel once resulted +from a heated argument at the "Grecian" about a Greek accent. One +day, soon after the first appearance of _The Tatler_, two or three +well-dressed men walked into the coffee-room of the "St. James's," +and began in a loud, truculent manner to abuse Steele as the author +of that paper. One of them at last swore that he would cut Steele's +throat or teach him better manners. Among the company present was Lord +Forbes, with two friends, officers of high rank in the army. When the +cut-throat had uttered his threat, Lord Forbes said significantly, +"In this country you will find it easier to cut a purse than to cut a +throat," and with the aid of the military gentlemen the bullies were +ignominiously turned out of the house. Many years later, in 1776, the +"St. James's" was the scene of a singular act of senseless violence. It +is tersely described in a letter from Lord Carlisle to George Selwyn. +He writes: + + "The Baron de Lingsivy ran a French officer through the body + on Thursday for laughing in the St. James's Coffee-house. I + find he did not pretend that he himself was laughed at, but at + that moment he chose that the world should be grave. The man + won't die, and the baron will not be hanged." + +Incidents of this kind, however, were of rare occurrence. + +But it is impossible to attempt to exhaust the subject of the Old +London Coffee-houses in one brief chapter. For a hundred years they +focussed the life of the town. Within their hospitable walls men of +all classes and occupations, independently, or in clubs and coteries, +met not only for refreshment, but for social intercourse--to read and +hear the news, to discuss the topics of the day, to entertain and be +entertained. This was the chief end they served. Incidentally, as we +have seen, they served a number of other subsidiary and more of less +useful purposes. They died slowly. Gradually the better-class houses +became more exclusive, and were merged in clubs of the modern kind. +The inferior houses were driven from public favour by the taverns and +public-houses, or, degenerating from their former condition, lingered +on as coffee-houses still, but of the lower type, which is not yet +quite extinct. + + + + +THE LEARNED SOCIETIES OF LONDON + +BY SIR EDWARD BRABROOK, C.B., F.S.A. + + +In a sense some of the City Guilds are entitled to be called "learned +societies"--as the Apothecaries, the Parish Clerks, the Stationers, +and the Surgeons--but they are dealt with under their proper head. By +the learned societies of London, we mean here those voluntary bodies +existing with or without royal patronage, but relying wholly for +support on the contributions of their members, which have taken upon +themselves the promotion of knowledge in one or more of its branches. +The earliest which we have been able to trace is that Society of +Antiquaries which was founded in 1572, the fourteenth year of Queen +Elizabeth, at the house of Sir Robert Cotton, under the presidency of +Archbishop Parker. It counted among its members Lancelot Andrewes, +Bishop of Winchester, William Camden, Sir William Dethicke, Garter, +William Lambarde, James Ley, Earl of Marlborough, John Stow, Mr. +Justice Whitelock, and other antiquaries of distinction. It is said +that James I. became alarmed for the arcana of his Government and, as +some thought, for the established Church, and accordingly put an end to +the existence of the society in 1604. + +His grandson, Charles II., founded the Royal Society of London for +improving natural knowledge in the year 1660, and thus gave effect to a +project which had been in the minds of many learned men for some time, +is expounded by Bacon in his scheme of Solomon's house, and is perhaps +best embodied in a letter which was addressed by John Evelyn to the +Hon. Robert Boyle on September 1, 1659. The first meeting recorded in +the journals of the society was held on November 28, 1660, and Evelyn +was elected a member on December 26 of that year. Sir R. Moray was the +first president. Graunt aptly called the society "The King's Privy +Council for Philosophy." Statutes were duly framed by the society, and +received the King's approval in January, 1662-3. For many years it held +its meetings at Gresham College, with an interval of about four years +(1669-1673), when it occupied Chelsea College. Its charters (dated +1662, 1663, and 1669) gave it many privileges, among others that of +using a mace, and it was formerly said that the one used by the society +was the identical mace or "bauble" of the Long Parliament, but that is +an error. The society began in 1663 the excellent practice, which has +continued to the present day, of celebrating the anniversary by dining +together on St. Andrew's Day (November 30). It began on February 21, +1665-6, the formation of its museum, a catalogue of which was published +in 1681. Many of its meetings were devoted to practical experiment; +thus, on November 14, 1666, the operation of the transfusion of blood +from one dog to another was performed in the presence of the members. +In 1671 Isaac Newton sent his reflecting telescope to the society, and +on January 11, 1671-2, he was elected a fellow. On April 28, 1686, +the manuscript of his _Principia_ was presented to the society, and +it was published by the society in the following year. Many great men +have been presidents of the society. Among them may be mentioned Sir +Christopher Wren, elected president January 12, 1680-1; Samuel Pepys, +1684; Lord Somers, Chancellor of England, 1698; Isaac Newton, 1703; Sir +Hans Sloane, on the death of Newton, 1726-7; Martin Folkes, who was +also a well-remembered President of the Society of Antiquaries, 1741; +the Earl of Macclesfield, 1753; succeeded on his death by the Earl of +Morton, 1764; James West, 1768; James Barrow, and shortly afterwards, +Sir John Pringle, 1772; Sir Joseph Banks, 1777; Wollaston, 1820; Davies +Gilbert, 1826. In 1830, a contested election took place between the +Duke of Sussex and Herschel the astronomer, when His Royal Highness was +elected by 119 votes to 111. + +The Government have frequently availed themselves of the existence +of the Royal Society to entrust it with important public duties. On +December 12, 1710, the fellows of the society were appointed visitors +of the Royal Observatory. On February 7, 1712/3, the King requested +the society to supply enquiries for his ambassadors. In 1742, and +afterwards, it assisted in the determination of the standards. In 1780 +its public services were recognised by the grant of apartments in +Somerset House. In 1784 it undertook a geodetical survey. Recently it +has been entrusted by Parliament with a sum of £4,000 a year, which it +allots towards encouraging scientific research. It has promoted many +public movements, such as Arctic expeditions, magnetic observations, +and the like. Originally its members were drawn from two classes--the +working-men of science and the patrons of science; and the idea is +even now maintained by certain privileges in respect of election given +to privy councillors and peers; but the recent tendency has been to +restrict its fellowship to persons eminent in physical science. The +Royal Society Club was founded in 1743, and still flourishes. + +After the summary proceedings of James I., in 1604, the antiquaries +seem to have allowed the whole of the seventeenth century to pass +without any further attempt at organisation, though we learn from Mr. +Ashmole that on July 2, 1659, an antiquaries' feast was held, and many +renowned antiquaries, such as Dugdale, Spelman, Selden, and Anthony à +Wood flourished at that time. On November 5, 1707, three antiquaries +met at the "Bear" Tavern in the Strand, and agreed to hold a weekly +meeting at the same place on Fridays at 6 o'clock, "and sit till ten at +farthest." Other antiquaries joined them, and they removed next year to +the "Young Devil" Tavern in Fleet Street, where Le Neve became their +president. + +[Illustration: + +THE + +ROYAL SOCIETY'S + +LETTER. + +I have (by Order of the Royal Society) seen and examined the Method +used by Mr JOHN MARSHALL, for grinding Glasses; and find that he +performs the said Work with greater Ease and Certainty than hitherto +has been practised; by means of an Invention which I take to be +his own, and New; and whereby he is enabled to make a great number +of Optick-Glasses at one time, and all exactly alike; which having +reported to the Royal Society, they were pleased to approve thereof, as +an Invention of great use; and highly to deserve Encouragement. + + Lond. Jan. 18. By the Command of the + 1693, 4. Royal Society. + + EDM. HALLEY. + +_Note_, There are several Persons who pretend to have the Approbation +of the ROYAL SOCIETY; but none has, or ever had it, but my self; as my +Letter can testifie. + +_Marshall_s True SPECTACLES. + +AN EARLY LETTER OF THE ROYAL SOCIETY, DATED JANUARY 18TH, 1693-4.] + +In 1717 they resolved to form themselves into a society, which is the +Society of Antiquaries now existing. Its minutes have been regularly +kept since January 1, 1718. The first volume bears the motto: + + "Nec veniam antiquis, sed honorem et præmia posci. + + "Stukeley, secr., 1726"; + +and the whole of the volume appears to be in Stukeley's autograph. + +In a quaint preliminary memorandum, he enumerates the "antient +monuments" the society was to study, as: + + "Old Citys, Stations, Camps, public Buildings, Roads, Temples, + Abbys, Churches, Statues, Tombs, Busts, Inscriptions, + Castles, Ruins, Altars, Ornaments, Utensils, Habits, Seals, + Armour, Pourtraits, Medals, Urns, Pavements, Mapps, Charts, + Manuscripts, Genealogy, Historys, Observations, Emendations of + Books, already published, and whatever may properly belong to + the History of Bryttish Antiquitys." + +The earlier publications of the society consisted of a series of +fine prints engraved by George Vertue. In 1747 it began the issue of +_Vetusta Monumenta_, and in 1770 the first edition of the first volume +of _Archæologia, or Miscellaneous Tracts relating to Antiquity_, +appeared. The Society's resources were modest. In the year 1736 its +income was only £61, but its expenditure was not more than £11, and its +accumulated funds amounted to £134. In 1752 it obtained from George +II., who declared himself to be the founder and patron of the society, +a Royal Charter of Incorporation, reciting that: + + "the study of Antiquity and the History of former times, has + ever been esteemed highly commendable and usefull, not only to + improve the minds of men, but also to incite them to virtuous + and noble actions, and such as may hereafter render them + famous and worthy examples to late posterity." + +The qualifications of a fellow are thus defined in the charter:-- + + "By how much any persons shall be more excelling in the + knowledge of the Antiquities and History of this and other + nations; by how much the more they are desirous to promote + the Honour, Business, and Emoluments of this Society; and by + how much the more eminent they shall be for Piety, Virtue, + Integrity, and Loyalty: by so much the more fit and worthy + shall such person be judged of being elected and admitted into + the said Society." + +Like the Royal Society, the Society of Antiquaries was to have +and employ a sergeant-at-mace, and apartments were allotted to it +in Somerset House. From this close neighbourhood grew an intimate +association between the two societies. Many persons belonged to both, +and although the paths of the two societies have since diverged, that +is still so in the case of about twenty fellows. A practice grew up +of attending each other's meetings. For more than forty years that +agreeable form of interchange has ceased, and the societies contemplate +each other from opposite corners of the quadrangle of Burlington House. +The Fellows of the Society of Antiquaries dined together for many years +on St. George's Day, April 23, the day prescribed for their anniversary +by the charter; but after a while the custom fell into disuse, and it +has only been revived of late years. + +In 1753 the Society for the Encouragement of Arts, Manufactures, and +Commerce, now called the Royal Society of Arts, was established. It +held its first public meeting in March, 1754. It was incorporated by +Royal Charter in 1847, and has for its objects:-- + + "the encouragement of the arts, manufactures, and commerce + of the country, by bestowing rewards for such productions, + inventions, or improvements as tend to the employment of the + poor, to the increase of trade, and to the riches and honour + of the kingdom; and for meritorious works in the various + departments of the fine arts; for discoveries, inventions + and improvements in agriculture, chemistry, mechanics, + manufactures, and other useful arts; for the application + of such natural and artificial products, whether of home, + colonial, or foreign growth and manufacture, as may appear + likely to afford fresh objects of industry, and to increase + the trade of the realm by extending the sphere of British + commerce; and generally to assist in the advancement, + development, and practical application of every department + of science in connection with the arts, manufactures, and + commerce of this country." + +Between 1754 and 1783 it distributed £28,434 by way of premiums for +inventions. For more than a century and a half the society has devoted +itself with unabated zeal to the promotion of its objects--by meetings, +examinations, exhibitions, and in many other ways. + +On January 13, 1800, the Royal Institution was founded. In the words +of one of its most distinguished professors, it has been a fertile +source of the popularity of science. By means of its lectures, its +laboratories, its libraries, and its rewards for research, it greatly +stimulated public interest in scientific pursuits when there were few +other bodies in existence capable of doing so. It continues to perform +the same useful function, notwithstanding the great increase in the +number of specialist societies since it was established. A feature of +its lectures is the annual course "adapted to a juvenile auditory." It +has appointed as its professors some of the most illustrious scientific +men, such as Sir Humphry Davy (up to 1812), Brande (1813 to 1852, and +afterwards as honorary professor), Faraday (1852), and Tyndall (1853). +The late Prince Consort (Albert the Good) took great interest in its +work, and frequently presided at its weekly meetings. It has a Board of +Managers, and also a Committee of Visitors, annually elected, and the +visitors make an annual report on the state of the institution. After +some early pecuniary difficulties it entered on a career of steady +prosperity. + +In 1807 the Geological Society was founded. The science of geology +was very much opposed to popular notions derived from a literal +interpretation of the Hebrew cosmogony, and was accordingly unpopular +among those who held those notions; but the society steadily pursued +its object, and can now look back upon the hundred years of its +existence with pride and satisfaction. In one of his presidential +addresses Sir Charles Lyell quoted the observation of Hutton, that +"We can see neither the beginning nor the end of that vast series of +phenomena which it is our business as geologists to investigate." +Leonard Horner, another distinguished president, claimed that the +society had been a "powerful instrument for the advancement of +geological science, a centre of good fellowship, and a band of +independent scientific men, who steadily and fearlessly promote the +cause of truth." The society grants an annual medal, founded in memory +of Wollaston, which has been frequently awarded to foreign geologists +of distinction; and it also administers a fund bequeathed by him to +promote useful researches in geology. + +In November, 1820, Dr. Burgess, the Bishop of St. David's, obtained +an audience of King George IV., and laid before him a plan for the +establishment of a Royal Society of Literature. The King took so +warm an interest in the project as to assign out of his privy purse +an annual sum of 1,100 guineas, out of which pensions of 100 guineas +each were awarded to ten royal associates of the society, and two +medals annually granted to distinguished literary men. Among the +royal associates were Samuel Taylor Coleridge, T. R. Malthus, William +Roscoe, and Sharon Turner. Among the medallists were Dugald Stewart, +Walter Scott, Robert Southey, Washington Irving, and Henry Hallam. Upon +September 15, 1825, the society received its Charter of Incorporation, +in which its object is defined to be:-- + + "the advancement of literature by the publication of inedited + remains of ancient literature, and of such works as may be + of great intrinsic value, but not of that popular character + which usually claims the attention of publishers; by the + promotion of discoveries in literature; by endeavouring to fix + the standard, as far as is practicable, and to preserve the + purity of the English language; by the critical improvement + of English lexicography; by the reading at public meetings of + interesting papers on history, philosophy, poetry, philology, + and the arts, and the publication of such of those papers as + shall be approved of; by the assigning of honorary rewards to + works of great literary merit, and to important discoveries in + literature; and by establishing a correspondence with learned + men in foreign countries for the purpose of literary enquiry + and information." + +The first method, the publication of inedited and other works, has +been greatly promoted by a bequest to the society of £1,692 from the +Rev. Dr. Richards. Out of the income of this fund the _Orations of +Hyperides_, edited by the Rev. Churchill Babington; the _Discourses +of Philoxenus_, by Dr. E. A. Wallis Budge; the _Chronicle of Adam +of Usk_, by Sir E. Maunde Thompson; Coleridge's _Christabel_, by +E. H. Coleridge; and other valuable works have been provided. The +_Transactions_ of the society also contain many important papers. On +the death of George IV. the annual gift of 100 guineas to each of +the ten royal associates was withdrawn. The society now acknowledges +literary merit by the award of the diploma of Honorary Fellow. In this +capacity many distinguished authors, both in this country and abroad, +have been and are associated with the society. + +In its early years the society was hotly attacked by Macaulay, who +held that its claim to be an appreciator of excellence in literature +involved a claim to condemn literature of which it disapproved, and +was equivalent to the establishment of a literary star-chamber. He +illustrated this by a rather feeble apologue, and nothing in the +subsequent history of the society has shown that his apprehensions +had any foundation. It has been very modest in the exercise of the +functions conferred upon it by its charter, which included the +foundation of a college and the appointment of professors. At one time +it did appoint a professor of English archæology and history, and it +called upon every royal associate on his admission to select some +branch of literature on which it should be his duty, once a year at +least, to communicate some disquisition or essay. The subject chosen by +Coleridge was a characteristic one:-- + + "The relations of opposition and conjunction, in which the + poetry (the Homeric and tragic), the religion, and the + mysteries of ancient Greece stood each to the other; with + the differences between the sacerdotal and popular religion; + and the influences of theology and scholastic logic on the + language and literature of Christendom from the 11th century." + +In pursuance of this undertaking he communicated a disquisition on the +"Prometheus" of Æschylus. + +In 1827 the Royal Asiatic Society was founded. As its title implies, +it devotes itself to the study of the languages, the literature, the +history, and the traditions of the peoples of Asia, especially of those +inhabiting our Indian dependency. It has enrolled in its ranks many, +if not all, the great Indian administrators and the most distinguished +Asiatic scholars. Daughter societies have been established in the three +Presidencies, and have contributed to the collection of materials for +its work. Its transactions are of acknowledged value and authority. +In its rooms at Albemarle Street a library and museum have been +collected. Its latest publication is a collection of Baluchi poems by +Mr. Longworth Dames, which has also been issued to the members of the +Folk-lore Society. + +On September 26, 1831, the British Association for the Advancement +of Science held its first meeting at York. It originated in a letter +addressed by Sir David Brewster to Professor Phillips, as secretary to +the York Philosophical Society. The statement of its objects appended +to its rules, as drawn up by the Rev. William Vernon Harcourt, is as +follows:-- + + "The Association contemplates no interference with the ground + occupied by other institutions. Its objects are:--To give a + stronger impulse and a more systematic direction to scientific + inquiry--to promote the intercourse of those, who cultivate + science in different parts of the British Empire, with one + another and with foreign philosophers--to obtain a more + general attention to the objects of science, and a removal of + any disadvantages of a public kind which impede its progress." + +The association was well described by the late Mr. Spottiswoode +as "general in its comprehensiveness; special in its sectional +arrangement." The general business of its meetings consists (1) in +receiving and discussing communications upon scientific subjects at +the various sections into which it is divided; (2) in distributing, +under the advice of a Committee of Recommendations, the funds arising +from the subscriptions of members and associates; and (3) in electing +a council upon whom devolves the conduct of affairs until the next +meeting. Although the meetings are held in all parts of the United +Kingdom, and have been held in Canada and South Africa, the British +Association may be correctly described as a London learned society, as +its headquarters are in London, where the council meets and directs +its continuous activities. One principal feature of its work, that +of the Research Committees, which, either with or without a grant of +money, pursue special enquiries with the view of reporting to the +next annual meeting, continues throughout the year. The original +designation of what are now the sections was "Committees of Sciences," +and these were--(1) mathematics and general physics, (2) chemistry and +mineralogy, (3) geology and geography, (4) zoology and botany, (5) +anatomy and physiology, (6) statistics. The sectional arrangement was +begun in 1835, and the sections are now constituted as follows--(_a_) +mathematical and physical science, (_b_) chemistry, (_c_) geology, +(_d_) zoology, (_e_) geography, (_f_) economic science and statistics, +(_g_) engineering, (_h_) anthropology, (_i_) physiology, (_k_) botany, +(_l_) educational science. At each annual meeting, which lasts a week, +the president of the next meeting is chosen, but the previous president +remains in office until the first day (Wednesday) of that meeting, when +he introduces his successor, who delivers an address. Many memorable +addresses have been delivered by the distinguished men who have held +that office. Each section has also a president, chosen for the year, +and he delivers an address at the opening of the proceedings of his +section. These addresses usually relate to the progress during the +year, or during recent years, of the science dealt with by the section, +or to some interesting matter developed by the personal researches of +the president himself. Men of eminence in the various sciences are +generally selected for and willingly accept the office of Sectional +President. The meetings of the British Association have been called +a "Parliament of Science," and its influence in promoting scientific +movements and rendering science popular has been very great. + +In 1833 the Royal Geographical Society was founded. It may fairly be +called the most popular of all the special societies, having about +4,000 members. It is also one of the most wealthy, having an income of +about £10,000 a year. It has accumulated a fine series of maps, and a +large library of geographical literature. Its quarterly journal is a +store-house of the most recent information relating to geographical +exploration. By medals and other rewards to explorers, by prizes +awarded in schools and training colleges, by the loan of instruments to +travellers, by the preparation of codes of instruction for their use, +and in many other ways, it applies its resources to the extension of +geographical knowledge. It has taken an active part in the promotion +of Arctic and Antarctic exploration. As geographical researches are +matters of great public interest, its meetings are sometimes important +social functions, as on a recent occasion, when a foreign prince was +the lecturer, and our King attended and spoke. + +On March 15, 1834, the Statistical Society (now Royal Statistical) was +founded. It was one of the first fruits of the activity of the British +Association, which established a Statistical Committee at the Cambridge +meeting in 1833, with Babbage as president. Their report recommended +the formation of a society for the careful collection, arrangement, +discussion, and publication of facts bearing on or illustrating the +complex relations of modern society in its social, economical, and +political aspects, especially facts which can be stated numerically and +arranged in tables. The first president was the Marquis of Lansdowne, +and among his successors have been many statesmen, such as Lord John +Russell, Mr. Gladstone, and Lord Goschen; authorities on finance, as +Lord Overstone, Mr. Newmarch, and Lord Avebury; and eminent writers on +statistics, as Dr. Farr, Sir Robert Giffen, and the Right Hon. Charles +Booth. As becomes the orderly mind of a statistician, the society has +been very regular in its publications, having for seventy years issued +a yearly volume in quarterly parts, which form a veritable mine of +statistical information. + +The society presents a Guy medal (in memory of Dr. W. A. Guy) to the +authors of valuable papers or to others who have promoted its work, and +a Howard medal (in memory of the great philanthropist) to the author of +the best essay on a prescribed subject, generally having relation to +the public health. It has accumulated a fine library of about 40,000 +volumes of a special character, containing the statistical publications +of all civilised countries. It has conducted some special enquiries--as +into medical charities, the production and consumption of meat and +milk, and the farm school system of the Continent--upon which it has +published reports. + +Among recent developments of statistical method in which the society +has taken part may be mentioned the use of index-numbers for affording +a standard of comparison between statistics of different years, and +a means of correction of errors that would otherwise arise; and the +increasing use of the higher mathematical analysis in determining +the probabilities of error and defining the curves of frequency in +statistical observations. Professor Edgeworth, Messrs. Bowley, Yule, +Hooker, and others, have made contributions to the _Journal_ of the +society on these matters. + +In 1844 an Ethnological Society was established, under the presidency +of Sir Charles Malcolm. Dr. Richard King, the founder, became its +secretary. In 1846 Dr. J. C. Prichard became president, and he and +Dr. King fulfilled respectively the same functions in an ethnological +sub-section of the section of zoology of the British Association, which +then met for the first time. In Prichard's first anniversary address +to the society, he defines ethnology as "the history of human races +or of the various tribes of men who constitute the population of the +world. It comprehends all that can be learned as to their origin and +relations to each other." Prichard died in 1848, and Sir C. Malcolm +resumed the presidency, which he held until his death on November 12, +1851. In that year ethnology was transferred from the zoological to +the geographical section of the British Association. Sir B. C. Brodie +became the next president of the society. He retired in 1854, and was +succeeded by Sir James Clark. The fourth and last volume of the first +series of the society's _Journal_ was published in 1856, and a series +of _Transactions_ begun in 1861. At that time Mr. John Crawfurd was +president of the society, and he retained the office until his death in +1868, when he was succeeded by Professor Huxley. + +In 1862 Dr. James Hunt, the Honorary Foreign Secretary of the +Ethnological Society, withdrew from it, and founded the Anthropological +Society of London, which held its first meeting on February 24, 1863, +under his presidency. In his inaugural address, he defined anthropology +as the science of the whole nature of man, and ethnology as the +history or science of nations or races. The new society was active +and aggressive. It published translations of works of such writers +as Broca, Pouchet, Vogt, and Waitz, and of the famous treatise of +Blumenbach. Some of the papers read before it attracted much attention, +and were thought to have a political bias. Many men whose names were +well known in the scientific world adhered to the Ethnological +Society, and that society, under Mr. Crawfurd, entered upon a more +active career. The rivalry between the two societies was prosecuted +with great vigour until January, 1871, when Professor Huxley effected +an amalgamation between them. + +The title of the combined societies was agreed upon as the +"Anthropological Institute of Great Britain and Ireland," to which, +in 1907, has been added by the King's command the prefix "Royal." In +1871 the department of ethnology in the section of biology in the +British Association became the department of anthropology, and in 1884 +anthropology became a section of itself. This was the final recognition +by the Parliament of Science that Hunt had fought for twenty years +before. In the interval, the claim of anthropology to this recognition +had been established by many great works, such as Huxley's _Man's +Place in Nature_, Darwin's _Descent of Man_, Tylor's _Early History +of Mankind_, and Lubbock's _Prehistoric Times_. Besides its annual +_Journal_, the Anthropological Institute publishes a monthly periodical +entitled _Man_, and it has issued several separate monographs. In +1878 the branch of anthropology, aptly termed "Folk-lore" by the late +Mr. W. J. Thoms, became so popular as to call for the establishment +of a separate society, which publishes a quarterly journal entitled +_Folk-lore_, and has annually issued one or more volumes of collections +of folk-lore. + +In 1844 a new departure was taken by the establishment of the British +Archæological Association, a body which was intended to take the +same place with regard to archæology that the British Association +occupied with regard to science, holding meetings in various parts of +the country where there existed objects of specially archæological +interest. It held its first meeting at Canterbury, under the presidency +of Lord Albert Conyngham (afterwards Lord Londesborough), and arranged +its work in four sections--primæval, mediæval, architectural, and +historical. Before a second meeting could be held, violent dissensions +arose, and the association split into two. In the result honours were +divided between the two bodies, those who retained the leadership +of Lord Albert retaining also the title of British Archæological +Association; while those who had for their president the Marquis of +Northampton retained the control of the _Archæological Journal_, and +adopted the title of "Archæological Institute of Great Britain and +Ireland," to which has since been prefixed the word "Royal." Both +bodies still exist, though the causes of controversy have long died out. + +Shortly afterwards, County Archæological Societies in London and +greater London began to be formed. In 1846 the Sussex Society, in 1853 +the Essex Society, in 1854 the Surrey Society, in 1855 the London and +Middlesex Society, and in 1857 the Kent Society were established. +Each of these societies has published transactions and other works of +solid value. In each the annual or more frequent excursion to places +of archæological interest within the county is an essential feature, +tending to the dissemination of knowledge and to the preservation +of antiquities, and affording the advantages of social intercourse. +Societies have also been established for the like purposes within +more restricted areas, as in Hampstead, Battersea, Balham, Lewisham, +Whitechapel, and elsewhere. + +Of merely publishing societies, the Percy, the Camden, the Shakespeare, +and the Arundel have run their course; but many others, as the +Roxburgh, the Harleian, the New Palæographic, and the Palæontological +still exist to delight their subscribers with the reproduction of rare +works. + +In this summary account of the principal Learned Societies of London it +has not been possible to include many societies of great importance, +such as the Colleges of Physicians and Surgeons, the numerous +societies connected with other professional pursuits, the Linnæan, +Zoological, Botanical, and other societies devoted to natural history; +the Royal Astronomical Society, which has important public functions; +the Royal Academy, and other institutions devoted to art. The roll of +Learned Societies is being constantly increased. Among recent additions +may be mentioned the British Academy for Historical Studies, and the +Sociological Society. + + + + +LITERARY SHRINES OF OLD LONDON + +BY ELSIE M. LANG + +From the Borough to St. James's + + +Leigh Hunt was of opinion that "one of the best secrets of enjoyment is +the art of cultivating pleasant associations," and, with his example +before us, we will endeavour to recall some of those that are to be +met with on a walk from the Borough to St. James's, from one of the +poorest parts of our city to one of the richest. The Borough, dusty, +noisy, toil-worn as it is, is yet, he tells us, "the most classical +ground in the metropolis." From the "Tabard" inn--now only a memory, +though its contemporary, the "George," hard by, gives us some idea +of its look in mediæval times--there rode forth, one bright spring +morning, "Sir Jeffrey Chaucer" and "nyne and twenty" pilgrims "in a +companye ... to wenden on (a) pilgrimage to Caunterbury with ful devout +courage." A fellow-poet of Chaucer's, John Gower, lies buried close at +hand in Southwark Cathedral, "under a tomb of stone, with his image of +stone also over him." He was one of the earliest benefactors of this +church, then known as St. Mary Overy, and founded therein a chantry, +where masses should be said for the benefit of his soul. Stones in +the pavement of the choir likewise commemorate John Fletcher, Philip +Massinger, and Edmund Shakespeare, who lie in unmarked graves somewhere +within the precincts of the cathedral. + +Not a stone's throw from the Borough is the Bankside, extending from +Blackfriars Bridge out beyond Southwark, a mean and dirty thoroughfare, +with the grey Thames on one side, and on the other dull houses, grimy +warehouses, and gloomy offices. How changed from the semi-rural resort +of Elizabethan days, when swans floated on the river, and magnificent +barges, laden with gaily dressed nobles and their attendants, were +continually passing by! Great must have been the pleasure traffic +then, for according to Taylor, "the Water Poet," who plied his trade +as waterman and wrote his verses on the Bankside in the early days of +Elizabeth's successor, "the number of watermen and those that live +and are maintained by them, and by the labour of the oar and scull, +between the bridge of Windsor and Gravesend, cannot be fewer than +forty thousand; the cause of the greater half of which multitude hath +been the players playing on the Bankside." Besides the players, the +brilliant band of dramatists who shed lustre on the reign of the maiden +Queen frequented it, not only on account of the pleasantness of its +situation, but because of the near proximity of the theatres, for the +Globe, the Rose, and the Hope all stood on the site now occupied by +the brewery of Messrs. Barclay and Perkins, while the Swan was not +far off. It is a well-authenticated fact that both Shakespeare and +Ben Jonson played at the Globe, and patronised the "Falcon" tavern, +the name of which still lingers in Falcon Dock and Falcon Wharf, Nos. +79 and 80, Bankside; and while in the meantime they were producing +their masterpieces, Chapman, Dekker, and Middleton were at the height +of their fame, Beaumont and Fletcher about to begin their career, and +Philip Massinger was newly arrived in town. Some of these Bankside +dramatists were well born and rich--such as Francis Beaumont, whose +father was a Knight and a Justice of the Common Pleas; and John +Fletcher, who was a son of the Bishop of London. Others were of +obscure birth and penniless--like Ben Jonson, who had been forced to +follow the trade of a bricklayer, and Dekker and Marston, whom he +twitted "with their defective doublet and ravelled satin sleeves," and +Philip Massinger, who in early days went about begging urgently for +the loan of £5. But whatever they had or lacked, certain it is that +their common art levelled all barriers between them, for though the +chief of all the friendships on the Bankside was that of Beaumont and +Fletcher--between whom was "a wonderful consimilarity of fancy ... +which caused the dearnesse of friendship between them so that they +lived together on the Bankside ... (and had) the same cloaths and +cloaks between them"--yet Massinger collaborated with Fletcher in at +least thirteen plays, with Dekker in one, and with Ford in two, while +Dekker was occasionally associated with Middleton, and Middleton with +Webster and Drayton. But the Elizabethan dramatists did not confine +themselves to the Bankside; on certain nights they repaired to the +"Mermaid" tavern, which used to stand on the south side of Cheapside, +between Bread and Friday Streets, to attend the meetings of the famous +Mermaid Club, said to have been founded by Sir Walter Raleigh. Here +were to be found Shakespeare, Spenser, Beaumont, Fletcher, Ben Jonson, +Carew, Donne, and many others, in eager witty converse. Beaumont +well described the brilliancy of these gatherings in his poem to Ben +Jonson:-- + + "What things have we seen + Done at the Mermaid! Heard words that have been + So nimble, and so full of subtle flame, + As if that everyone from whence they came + Had meant to put his whole wit in a jest + And had resolved to live a fool the rest + Of his dull life." + +Another favourite haunt of theirs was the "Boar's Head," which stood +on the spot now marked by the statue of William IV., at the junction +of Eastcheap and Gracechurch Street. At this tavern Falstaff and +Prince Hal concocted many of their wildest pranks. In later days the +Elizabethan poets and dramatists, led by Ben Jonson, went even further +afield--to the "Devil" tavern, which stood at No. 1, Fleet Street, +where they held their meetings in a room called the "Apollo," the chief +adornments of which, a bust of Apollo and a board with an inscription, +"Welcome to the oracle of Apollo," are still to be seen in an upper +room of Messrs. Child's Bank, which now occupies the site. Ben Jonson +tells us that "the first speech in my 'Catiline,' spoken to _Scylla's +Ghost_, was writ after I had parted with my friends at the 'Devil' +tavern; I had drank well that night, and had brave notions." + +We have records of the deaths of two at least of these dramatists on +the Bankside--viz., that of Philip Massinger, who died "in his own +house, near the play-house on the Bankside," in 1639; and Fletcher, +"who dyed of the plague on the 19th of August, 1625." "The parish +clerk," says Aubrey, "told me that he was his (Fletcher's) Taylor, and +that Mr. Fletcher staying for a suit of cloathes before he retired into +the country, Death stopped his journey and laid him low there." + +Cheapside, so named from the Chepe, or old London market, along the +south side of the site of which it runs, has been a place of barter +ever since the reign of Henry VI., when a market was held there daily +for the sale of every known commodity. It is easy to see where the +vendors of some of the articles had their stands by the names of the +surrounding streets--Bread Street, Fish Street, Milk Street, etc. +Later on the stalls were transformed into permanent shops, with a +dwelling-place for their owners above, and a fair-sized garden at the +back. Despite the commercial spirit that has always pervaded this +region, it has given birth to two famous poets--the sweet songster +Herrick, who sings in one of his poems of + + "The golden Cheapside where the earth + Of Julia Herrick gave to me my birth," + +golden, perhaps, having reference to his father, who was a goldsmith; +and greater still, John Milton, who first saw the light in Bread +Street, at the sign of the "Spread Eagle," in a house which was +afterwards destroyed in the Great Fire. It must have been a house +of comfortable dimensions, for it covered the site now occupied by +Nos. 58 to 63, the business premises of a firm who exhibit a bust of +Milton, with an inscription, in a room on their top floor. Milton's +father, moreover, had grown rich in his profession, which was that of +a scrivener, had been made a Judge, and knighted five years before +the birth of his son, so it is evident the poet began life in easy +circumstances. He was baptised in All Hallows, a church in Bread Street +destroyed in 1897. In Bow Church there is a tablet in memory of Milton, +which was taken from All Hallows. When he was ten years of age he +began to go to Paul's School, which stood in those days on the east +side of St. Paul's Churchyard, between Watling Street and Cheapside. +Aubrey records that "when he went to schoole, when he was very young, +he studied very hard, and sat up very late, commonly till twelve or +one o'clock at night, and his father ordered the mayde to sitt up for +him, and at these years (ten) he composed many copies of verses which +might well have become a riper age." He continued at this school, the +old site of which is marked by a tablet on a warehouse, until he was +sixteen. Some twenty years later Samuel Pepys was a pupil at Paul's +School, and later on in life witnessed its destruction in the Great +Fire. Milton would seem to have always cherished a great affection for +the city, for after his return from his travels he seldom lived beyond +the sound of Bow Bells, once only venturing as far as Westminster; +and when he died he was buried in St. Giles's, Cripplegate, in the +same grave as his father. Indeed, the city proper was the birthplace +of several poets, for was not Pope born in Lombard Street, Gray in +Cornhill, and Edmund Spenser in East Smithfield, while Lord Macaulay +spent his earlier years in Birchin Lane? + +[Illustration: CHEAPSIDE, WITH THE CROSS, AS THEY APPEARED IN 1660.] + +In the narrow confines of Paternoster Row, where the tall fronts of +the houses are so close together that only a thin strip of sky is +visible between them, Charlotte Brontë and her sister Anne, fresh from +the rugged solitudes of their bleak Yorkshire moors, awoke on the +morning of their first visit to the great capital of which they had +so often dreamed, and, looking out of the dim windows of the Chapter +Coffee-house, saw "the risen sun struggling through the fog, and +overhead above the house-tops, co-elevate almost with the clouds ... a +solemn orbed mass dark blue and dim the dome" (of St. Paul's). + +Fleet Street has always been the haunt of the "knights of the pen," +and even in these modern days the names of newspapers stare at the +passer-by on every side, while at every step he jostles an ink-stained +satellite of some great journal. But although these ink-stained ones +are to be met with in Fleet Street at every hour of the day and night, +they do not live there like the writers of old time--Michael Drayton, +for instance, who "lived at ye baye-windowe house next the east end +of St. Dunstan's Church"; and Izaak Walton, who kept a linen-draper's +shop "in a house two doors west of the end of Chancery Lane," and on +his infrequent holidays went a-fishing in the River Lea at Tottenham +High Cross. Abraham Cowley, again, was born over his father's grocer's +shop, which "abutted on Sargeants' Inn," and here, as a little child, +he devoured the _Faerie Queen_, and was made "irrecoverably a poet." +James Shirley lived near the Inner Temple Lane; John Locke in Dorset +Court. In Salisbury Square, formerly Salisbury Court, Thomas Sackville, +first Earl of Dorset, the precursor of Spenser, John Dryden, and Samuel +Richardson, all had a residence at one time or another. Richardson +built a large printing establishment on the site now occupied by +Lloyd's newspaper offices, where he continued to carry on business many +years after he had removed his private residence to the West End. He +was buried, moreover, in St. Bride's Church in 1761, a large stone in +the nave between pews 12 and 13 recording the fact. But greatest and +most constant of Fleet Street habitués was Dr. Johnson. For ten years +he lived at 17, Gough Square, busy in an upper room upon his great +Dictionary. Here he lost his "beloved Tetty," to whose memory he ever +remained faithful. "All his affection had been concentrated on her. He +had neither brother nor sister, neither son nor daughter." Although +twenty years his senior, with a complexion reddened and coarsened +by the too liberal use of both paint and strong cordials, yet "to +him she was beautiful as the Gunnings, and witty as Lady Mary." On +leaving Gough Square he lived for a few years in the Temple, where he +received his first visit from Boswell, and made the acquaintance of +Oliver Goldsmith. The latter was then living at 6, Wine Office Court, +Fleet Street, where Johnson, visiting him one morning in response +to an urgent message, found that "his landlady had arrested him for +his rent." He showed Johnson his MS. of the just-completed _Vicar of +Wakefield_, which he looked into, and instantly comprehending its +merit, went out and sold it to a bookseller for sixty pounds. In 1765 +Johnson returned to Fleet Street, and lived for eleven years at 7, +Johnson's Court. Here Boswell dined with him for the first time on +Easter Day, 1773, and found to his surprise "everything in very good +order." Walking up the Court one day in company with Topham Beauclerk, +Boswell confessed to him that he "had a veneration" for it, because +the great doctor lived there, and was much gratified to learn that +Beauclerk felt the same "reverential enthusiasm." In later years +Dickens stole up this Court one dark December evening, and, with +beating heart, dropped his first original MS. into the letter-box +of _The Monthly Magazine_, the office of which stood on the site +now occupied by Mr. Henry Sell's premises. No. 8, Bolt Court, was +the next and last residence of Dr. Johnson; here, on December 13th, +1784, he met the inevitable crisis, for which he had always felt an +indescribable terror and loathing, and passed peacefully and happily +away. Johnson had always had a great predilection for club or tavern +life, partly because it enabled him to escape for a while from the +hypochondria which always dogged his footsteps. He loved nothing so +much as to gather kindred spirits around him and spend long evenings +in congenial conversation. He would sit, "the Jupiter of a little +circle, sometimes indeed nodding approbation, but always prompt on the +slightest contradiction to launch the thunders of rebuke and sarcasm." +There was not much expense attached to these gatherings, for it is +recorded of one of the clubs he founded that the outlay was not to +exceed sixpence per person an evening, with a fine of twopence for +those who did not attend. Among the Fleet Street haunts thus frequently +resorted to by Dr. Johnson and his friends were the "Cocke," patronised +in former years by Pepys, and in later years by Thackeray, Dickens, +and Tennyson; the "Cheshire Cheese," the only house of the kind which +remains as it was in Dr. Johnson's day; the "Mitre," also formerly +patronised by Pepys; and the "Devil," where the poets laureate had been +wont to repair and read their birthday odes. St. Clement Danes, too, is +connected with Johnson, for, in spite of his love of festivity, he was +devout, and regularly attended this church, occupying pew No. 18 in the +north gallery, now marked by a brass plate. Boswell records that "he +carried me with him to the church of St. Clement Danes, where he had +his seat, and his behaviour was, as I had imagined to myself, solemnly +devout." + +One more memory of Fleet Street before we leave it, in connection +with Dick's Coffee-house, which used to stand at Nos. 7 and 8. In +December, 1763, the poet Cowper, then a student in the Inner Temple, +was appointed Clerk of the Journals of the House of Lords. Delicate, +shy, intensely sensitive, and with a strong predisposition to insanity, +the dread of these onerous public duties disturbed the balance of +his morbid brain. His madness broke out one morning at Dick's, as he +himself afterwards narrated. He said: + + "At breakfast I read the newspaper, and in it a letter, + which the further I perused it the more closely engaged my + attention. I cannot now recollect the purport of it; but + before I had finished it, it appeared demonstratively true to + me that it was a libel or satire upon me. The author appeared + to be acquainted with my purpose of self-destruction, and + to have written that letter on purpose to secure and hasten + the execution of it. My mind probably at this time began to + be disordered; however it was, I was certainly given to a + strong delusion. I said within myself, 'Your cruelty shall be + gratified, you shall have your revenge,' and flinging down the + paper in a fit of strong passion, I rushed hastily out of the + room, directing my way towards the fields, where I intended + to find some lane to die in, or if not, determined to poison + myself in a ditch, when I could meet with one sufficiently + retired." + +This paroxysm ended in Cowper trying to hang himself, but, the rope +breaking, he went down to the Thames to the Custom House Quay and +threatened to drown himself. This attempt, however, also failed, and +friends interfering, he was removed to an asylum, where he remained +eighteen months. + +From Fleet Street it is but a step to the Temple, with its grey quiet +corners full of echoing memories, stretching back even to the days of +Shakespeare, whose _Twelfth Night_ was performed before an audience +of his contemporaries in the self-same Middle Temple Hall that still +confronts us. The names of Henry Fielding, Edmund Burke, John Gower, +Thomas Shadwell, William Wycherley, Nicholas Rowe, Francis Beaumont, +William Congreve, John Horne Tooke, Thomas Day, Tom Moore, Sheridan, +George Colman, jun., Marston, and Ford, are all upon the Temple rolls +and each must in his day have been a familiar figure among the ancient +buildings. But Charles Lamb is the presiding genius of the place. + + "I was born and passed the first seven years of my life in the + Temple," he tells us. "Its church, its halls, its garden, its + fountains, its river ... these are my oldest recollections. + Indeed it is the most elegant spot in the metropolis. What + a transition for a countryman visiting London for the first + time, the passing from the crowded Strand or Fleet Street, by + unexpected avenues into its magnificent ample squares, its + classic green recesses. What a cheerful liberal look hath that + portion of it, which from three sides, overlooks the greater + gardens, that goodly pile ... confronting with massy contrast, + the lighter, older, more fantastically shrouded one, named + of Harcourt, with the cheerful Crown Office Row (place of my + kindly engendure) right opposite the stately stream, which + washes the garden foot.... A man would give something to have + been born in such a place." + +When Lamb was twenty-five years of age he went back to live in the +Temple, at 16, Mitre Court Buildings, in an "attic storey for the air." +His bed faced the river, and by "perking on my haunches and supporting +my carcase with my elbows, without much wrying my neck I can see," +he wrote to a friend, "the white sails glide by the bottom of King's +Bench Walk as I lie in my bed." Here he passed nine happy years, and +then, after a short stay in Southampton Buildings, he returned to the +Temple for the second time, to 4, Inner Temple Lane, fully intending +to pass the remainder of his life within its precincts. His new set of +chambers "looked out upon a gloomy churchyard-like court, called Hare +Court, with three trees and a pump in it." But fate intervened, and +he and his sister soon after left the Temple, never to return. It was +no easy parting, however, for he wrote in after years, "I thought we +never could have been torn up from the Temple. Indeed it was an ugly +wrench.... We never can strike root so deep in any other ground." + +It was when Dr. Johnson had a set of chambers on the first floor of No. +1, Inner Temple Lane, that Boswell first went to see him. Boswell wrote: + + "He received me very courteously, but it must be confessed + that his apartment, furniture, and morning dress were + sufficiently uncouth. His brown suit of clothes looked very + rusty, he had on a little old shrivelled unpowdered wig which + was too small for his head, his shirt-neck and knees of his + breeches were loose, his black worsted stockings ill drawn up, + and he had a pair of unbuckled shoes by way of slippers. But + all these slovenly peculiarities were forgotten the moment + that he began to talk." + +Boswell, indeed, conceived so violent an admiration for him that he +took rooms in Farrar's Buildings in order to be near him. Oliver +Goldsmith seems to have followed his example, for he went to lodge +first in 2, Garden Court, and afterwards in 2, Brick Court, on the +right-hand side, looking out over the Temple Garden. Thackeray, who, +years afterwards, lodged in the same set of rooms, wrote: + + "I have been many a time in the Chambers in the Temple which + were his, and passed up the staircase, which Johnson and Burke + and Reynolds trod to see their friend, their poet, their kind + Goldsmith--the stair on which the poor women sat weeping + bitterly when they heard that the greatest and most generous + of men was dead within the black oak door." + +A stone slab with the inscription, "Here lies Oliver Goldsmith," was +placed on the north side of Temple Church, as near as possible to the +spot where he is supposed to have been buried. + +No. 2, Fountain Court, was the last house of William Blake, the +poet-painter, the seer of visions, who had a set of rooms on the first +floor, from whence a glimpse of the river was to be obtained. It was +very poorly furnished, though always clean and orderly, and decorated +only with his own pictures, but to the eager young disciples who +flocked around him it was "the house of the Interpreter." When he lay +there upon his death-bed, at the close of a blazing August day in 1827, +beautiful songs in praise of his Creator fell from his lips, and as +his wife, his faithful companion of forty-five years of struggle and +stress, drew near to catch them more distinctly, he told her with a +smile, "My beloved! they are not mine! no, they are not mine!" + +Passing out into the Strand, we are confronted by the Law Courts. In +former days this site was occupied by a network of streets, one of +which was Shire Lane, where the members of the Kit Cat Club first held +their gatherings, and toasted Lady Mary Wortley Montagu, when, as a +child of seven, enthroned on her proud father's knee, she spent "the +happiest hour of her life," overwhelmed with caresses, compliments, +and sweetmeats. The famous "Grecian" stood in Devereux Court, and the +"Fountain" where Johnson, on his first arrival in London, read his +tragedy _Irene_ to his fellow-traveller Garrick, on the site since +occupied by Simpson's for several generations. The Strand "Turk's Head" +was at No. 142, and patronised by Johnson, because "the mistress of +it is a good civil woman and has not much business"; and the "Coal +Hole," immortalised by Thackeray as the "Cave of Harmony" in _The +Newcomes_, where Terry's Theatre now uprears its front. But the chief +literary association of the Strand is that of Congreve, who spent +his last years in Surrey Street, "almost blind with cataracts," and +"never rid of the gout," but looking, as Swift wrote to Stella, "young +and fresh and cheerful as ever." He had always been a favourite with +society, and Surrey Street was thronged by his visitors, among whom +were four of the most beautiful women of the day--Mrs. Bracegirdle, +Mrs. Oldfield, Lady Mary Wortley Montagu, and Henrietta Duchess of +Marlborough. Voltaire, too, who greatly admired his work, sought him +out when staying at the "White Peruke," Covent Garden, and was much +disgusted by the affectation with which Congreve begged to be regarded +as a man of fashion, who produced airy trifles for the amusement of his +idle hours. "If you had been so unfortunate as to have been a _mere_ +gentleman," said Voltaire, "I should never have taken the trouble of +coming to see you." In spite of the looseness of his life, Congreve had +early acquired habits of frugality, and continuing to practise them +when the need for economy had disappeared, he contrived to amass a +fortune of £10,000, which, on his death in 1789, he bequeathed to the +Duchess of Marlborough, his latest infatuation. This sum, which would +have restored the fallen fortunes of his nearest relatives, was a mere +nothing to the wealthy beauty, who expended it in the purchase of a +magnificent diamond necklace, which she continually wore in memory of +the dead dramatist. + +The whole of Covent Garden is classic ground, from its association +with the wits of Dryden's time, when Bow Street and Tavistock Street +were in turn regarded as the Bond Street of the fashionable world. +Edmund Waller, William Wycherley, and Henry Fielding, each lived in +Bow Street. In Russell Street stood the three great coffee-houses of +the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries--Wills', Button's, and Tom's. +Wills' stood at No. 21, at the corner of Russell Street and Bow Street; +here Pepys stopped one February evening on his way to fetch his wife, +and heard much "witty and pleasant discourse"; here Dryden had his +special arm-chair, in winter by the fire, and in summer on the balcony, +and was always ready to arbitrate in any literary dispute. It is said +that Pope, before he was twelve years old, persuaded his friends to +bring him here, so that he might gaze upon the aged Dryden, the hero of +his childish imagination. Dr. Johnson, Addison, Steele, and Smollett +were all regular visitors. Button's, which stood on the south side of +Russell Street, and Tom's at No. 17, were equally popular, and the +Bedford Coffee-house "under the piazza in Covent Garden" was another +favourite resort. + +It was in Russell Street, in the bookshop of Thomas Davies, the actor, +that Boswell had his eagerly desired first meeting with Dr. Johnson, +which he describes as follows:-- + + "At last, on Monday, the 16th of May, when I was sitting in + Mr. Davies' back parlour, after having drunk tea with him and + Mrs. Davies, Johnson came unexpectedly into the shop, and Mr. + Davies having perceived him through the glass door in the room + in which we were sitting advancing towards us, he announced + his awful approach to me somewhat in the manner of an actor + in the part of Horatio, when he addresses Hamlet on the + appearance of his father's ghost: 'Look, my lord, he comes.'" + +In St. Paul's, Covent Garden, were buried Samuel Butler, author +of _Hudibras_, Mrs. Centlivre, Thomas Southerne, John Wolcot, and +Wycherley, but when the church was burned down in 1786 all trace of +their graves disappeared. + +One other literary memory before we leave the Strand; it is connected +with what was once No. 30, Hungerford Stairs (now part of Villiers +Street), where stood Warren's blacking factory, in which the child +Dickens passed days of miserable drudgery, labelling pots of blacking +for a few shillings a week. He describes it in _David Copperfield_, +under the name of "Murdstone and Grimsby's warehouse, down in +Blackfriars." It was "a crazy old house, with a wharf of its own, +abutting on the water when the tide was in, and on the mud when the +tide was out, and literally overrun with rats." + +Pall Mall, the centre of club-land, in the eighteenth century was +the "ordinary residence of all strangers," probably on account of +its proximity to the fashionable chocolate and coffee-houses (the +forerunners of the clubs), which, as Defoe wrote, "were all so close +together that in an hour you could see the company at them all." In +Pall Mall itself were the "Smyrna," the "King's Arms," and the "Star +and Garter." At the "King's Arms" the Kit Cat Club met when it had +quitted its quarters in Shire Lane, and at the "Star and Garter" the +"Brothers" were presided over by Swift. The "Tully's Head," a bookshop +kept by the wonderful Robert Dodsley, footman, poet, dramatist, and +publisher, was another favourite lounging place of the times. + +In Charing Cross were the "Rummer," at No. 45, kept by the uncle of +Matthew Prior; Lockett's, two doors off; the "Turk's Head," next door +to No. 17; and the British Coffee-house, which stood on the site now +occupied by the offices of the London County Council. + +In St. James's Street the great coffee and chocolate-houses positively +elbowed each other up and down, just as the clubs which succeeded them +do in the present day. The "Thatched House," where the Literary Club, +founded by Dr. Johnson, held its meetings under the presidency of Swift +and his contemporaries; the "St. James's," where Addison "appeared +on Sunday nights," and "Swift was a notable figure," for "those who +frequented the place had been astonished day after day, by the entry +of a clergyman, unknown to any there, who laid his hat on the table, +and strode up and down the room with rapid steps, heeding no one, and +absorbed in his own thoughts. His strange manner earned him, unknown as +he was to all, the name of the "mad parson""; White's, to which Colley +Cibber was the only English actor ever admitted; and the "Cocoa Tree," +nicknamed the "Wits' Coffee-house," which, in Gibbon's time, afforded +"every evening a sight truly English. Twenty or thirty, perhaps, of the +finest men in the kingdom, in point of fashion and fortune, supping at +little tables covered with a napkin, in the middle of a coffee-room, +upon a bit of cold meat or a sandwich and drinking a glass of punch." + +Lord Byron was the most romantic literary figure connected with St. +James's Street. His first home in London, after his youthful days, was +at No. 8, where he went to live after the publication of his _English +Bards and Scotch Reviewers_. From this house the proud and gloomy young +man set forth to take his seat in the House of Lords as a peer of the +realm. Moore wrote: + + "In a state more alone and unfriended, perhaps, than any youth + of his high station had ever before been reduced to on such + an occasion--not having a single individual of his own class, + either to take him by the hand as friend, or acknowledge him + as an acquaintance." + +But this state of affairs was not to endure. On February 29th, 1812, +_Childe Harold_ appeared. + + "The effect was electric; his fame had not to wait for any + of the ordinary gradations, but seemed to spring up like the + palace of a fairy tale--in a night.... From morning till + night flattering testimonies of his success reached him; the + highest in the land besieged his door, and he who had been so + friendless found himself the idol of London society." + +Perhaps we cannot do better than end these literary associations of +club-land with a few words about a man who in his time was one of its +most brilliant figures--Theodore Hook. When he was released from the +King's Bench prison, with his debt to the Crown still hanging over him, + + "he took a large and handsome house in Cleveland Row. Here he + gave dinners on an extensive scale, and became a member of all + the best clubs, particularly frequenting those where high play + was the rule. His visiting book included all that was loftiest + and gayest and in every sense most distinguished in London + society. The editor of _John Bull_, the fashionable novelist, + the wittiest and most vivid talker of the time, his presence + was not only everywhere welcome but everywhere coveted and + clamoured for. But the whirl of extravagant dissipation + emptied his pocket, fevered his brain, and shortened the + precious hours in which alone his subsistence could be gained." + +In the height of his social triumphs there always hung inexorably over +him the Damocles sword of debt. When at last he gave way under the +strain, and went into comparative retirement at Fulham, the number of +dinners at the Athenæum Club, where he had always had a particular +table kept for him near the door (nicknamed Temperance Corner), fell +off by upwards of three hundred per annum. + + * * * * * + +These are a few out of the many literary memories that we may encounter +in an afternoon's stroll from the Borough to St. James's, along one of +the great city's busiest highways; others, indeed, there are, meeting +us at every corner, but space forbids our dwelling upon them, and +regretfully we must pass them by. + + + + +CROSBY HALL + +BY THE EDITOR + + +Few old mansions in the city of London could rival the ancient +dwelling-place of the brave old knight, Sir John Crosby. Its +architectural beauties and historical associations endeared it to all +lovers of old London, and many a groan was heard when its fate was +doomed, and the decree went forth that it was to be numbered among the +departed glories of the city. Unhappily, the hand of the destroyer +could not be stayed, and the earnest hope had to be abandoned that +many a generation of Londoners might be permitted to see this relic +of ancient civic life, and to realise from this example the kind of +dwelling-place wherein the city merchants of olden days made their +homes, and the salient features of mediæval domestic architecture. +Shorn of its former magnificence, reduced to a fraction of its original +size, it retained evidences of its ancient state and grandeur, and +every stone and timber told of its departed glories, and of the great +events of which Crosby Hall had been the scene. It has been associated +with many a name that shines forth in the annals of English history, +and imagination could again people the desolate hall with a gay company +of courtiers and conspirators, of knights and dames, of city merchants +gorgeous in their liveries of "scarlet and green," or "murrey and +plunket," when pomp and pageantry, tragedy and death, dark councils +and mirth, and gaiety and revellings followed each other through the +portals of the mansion in one long and varied procession. It will be +our pleasure to recall some of these scenes which were enacted long +ago, and to tell of the royal, noble, and important personages who made +this house their home. + +Many people who live in our great overgrown modern London--who dwell +in the West End, and never wander further east than Drury Lane Theatre +or St. Pancras Station--have never seen Crosby Hall, and know not +where it stood. If you go along Cheapside and to the end of Cornhill, +and then turn to the left, up Bishopsgate, the old house stood on the +right hand side; or you may approach along Holborn and London Wall. +Alas! the pilgrimage is no longer possible. Bishopsgate is historic +ground. The name is derived from the ancient gate of the city that +was built, according to Stow, by some Bishop of London, "though now +unknown when or by whom, for ease of passengers toward the east, and by +north, as into Norfolk, Suffolk, Cambridgeshire, &c." Some authorities +name Bishop Erkenwald, son of King Offa, as the first builder of +Bishopsgate, and state that Bishop William, the Norman, repaired the +gate in the time of his namesake, the Conqueror. Henry III. confirmed +to the German merchants of the Hanse certain liberties and privileges, +which were also confirmed by Edward I. in the tenth year of his reign, +when it was discovered that the merchants were bound to repair the +gate. Thereupon Gerald Marbod, alderman of the Hanse, and other Hanse +merchants, granted 210 marks sterling to the Mayor and citizens, and +covenanted that they and their successors should from time to time +repair the gate. In 1479, in the reign of Edward IV., it was entirely +rebuilt by these merchants, and was a fine structure adorned with the +effigies of two bishops, probably those named above, and with two +other figures supposed to represent King Alfred and Alred, Earl of +Mercia, to whom Alfred entrusted the care of the gate. This repair +was probably necessary on account of the assault of the bastard +Falconbridge on this and other gates of the city, who shot arrows and +guns into London, fired the suburbs, and burnt more than three-score +houses. The gate has been frequently repaired and rebuilt, its last +appearance being very modern, with a bishop's mitre on the key-stone +of the arch, and surmounted by the city arms with guarding griffins. +London "improvements" have banished the gate, as they have so many +other interesting features of the city. + +The neighbourhood is interesting. Foremost among the attractions of +Bishopsgate Street is the beautiful church of St. Helen, formerly the +church of the Nunnery of St. Helen, the Westminster of the city, where +lie so many illustrious merchants and knights and dames, and amongst +them the founder of Crosby Hall and other owners of the mansion. The +church is closely associated with the hall. There in that fine house +they lived. There in the church hard by their bodies sleep, and their +gorgeous tombs and inscriptions tell the story of their deeds. St. +Helen's Church was one of the few which escaped destruction at the +Great Fire of London. There was an early Saxon church here, but the +earliest parts of the existing building date back to the thirteenth +century. There are some blocked-up lancet windows of the transept, a +staircase doorway in the south-east corner, another doorway which led +from the nun's choir into the convent, and a lancet window. There is a +Renaissance porch, the work of Inigo Jones, erected in 1663. The main +part of the structure is Decorated and Perpendicular, the fifteenth +century work being due to the builder of Crosby Hall, who left 500 +marks for its restoration and improvement. The whole church possesses +many interesting features, of which want of space prevents a full +description. + +[Illustration: CROSBY HALL.] + +Sir John Crosby determined to seek a site for his house close to this +church and the Nunnery of St. Helen, and in 1466 obtained a lease from +Alice Ashford, prioress of the Nunnery, of some lands and tenements +for a period of ninety-nine years for the yearly rent of £11 6s. 8d. +Doubtless many good citizens of London in the present day would like to +make so good a bargain. + +Sir John Crosby, whose honoured name is preserved to this day by +the noble house which he built, was a worthy and eminent citizen of +London--one of the men who laid the foundations of English trade and +commercial pre-eminence. He attained to great wealth, and his actions +and his bequests prove that he was a very worthy man. Some idle story +stated that, like the famous Dick Whittington, he was of humble origin +and unknown parentage. Stow says: "I hold it a fable said of him, +to be named Crosby, from his being found by a cross." A very pretty +conceit! He was discovered, when an infant, or having attained the age +of boyhood, sleeping on the steps of the market cross at Cheapside +or Charing; and the sympathetic folk who found him there named him +Cross-by! Our ancestors, like ourselves, loved a romance, a nice +cheerful story of a poor boy attaining to rank and opulence, marrying +his master's daughter and doing brave deeds for his King and country. +The notable career of Sir Richard Whittington, thrice Lord Mayor of +London, was so embellished with romantic incident. He was no poor +man's son who begged his way to London, accompanied by his favourite +cat. Was he not the youngest son of Sir William Whittington, the owner +of Pauntley Manor in Gloucestershire, and of Solers Hope, Hereford? +and was not his famous cat the name of his ship which brought him +wealth and affluence? Or shall we accept the story of the sale of the +cat to the King of Barbary? So the legend of the foundling Crosby is +equally a fable, woven by the skilful imaginations of our Elizabethan +forefathers. Sir John came of goodly parentage. There was a Johan de +Crosbie, King's Clerk in Chancery, in the time of Edward II.; a Sir +John Crosbie, Knight, and Alderman of London, in the reign of Edward +III.; and a John Crosby, Esquire, and servant of King Henry IV., who +gave to him the wardship of Joan, daughter and sole heir of John +Jordaine, Fishmonger--_i.e._, a member of the Worshipful Company of +Fishmongers of the City of London. This John Crosby was, according to +Stow, either the father or grandfather of the builder of Crosby Hall. + +The family held the manor and advowson of the church of +Hanworth-on-the-Thames, not far from Hampton Court. This manor was +owned by the Sir John Crosbie who lived in the time of King Edward +III., and after his death it was placed in the hands of a certain +Thomas Rigby for safe custody until John Crosbie, the son and heir +of the knight, should have grown up to man's estate and attained his +majority. This estate seems afterwards to have passed into the hands of +King Henry VIII., who, on account of its pleasant situation, delighted +in it above any other of his houses. + +The father of the founder of the Hall was a friend of Henry Lord +Scrope, of Masham, the unfortunate nobleman who was beheaded at +Southampton for complicity in a plot against the life of Henry V. He +bequeathed to his friend, John Crosbie, "a woollen gown without furs +and one hundred shillings." + +_Bene natus_, _bene vestitus_, and doubtless _modice doctus_, the +qualifications of an All Souls' Fellow, John Crosby began his career, +embarking in trade and commerce, and undertaking the duties of a +worthy citizen of London. The palmy days of commercial enterprise +inaugurated by King Henry VII. had not yet set in. Before his time +the trade between England and the Continent was much more in the +hands of foreigners than of English merchants. English trading ships +going abroad to sell English goods and bring back cargoes of foreign +commodities were few in number. The English merchant usually stayed +at home, and sold his wares to the strangers who came each year to +London and the other trading ports, or bartered them for the produce of +other lands, with which their ships were freighted. The German Hanse +merchants, the Flemish traders, the Lombards, and many others, enjoyed +great privileges in their commerce with England. But, in spite of this, +men like Crosby were able to amass wealth and make large profits. Sir +John's dealings extended far into other countries, and he had important +connections with the Friscobaldi of Florence, who with the Medici were +the great bankers and engrossers of the commerce of Europe. + +Of the great merchants who laid the foundations of our English commerce +we often know little more than their names, the offices they held, +with a meagre catalogue of their most philanthropic labours and their +wills. It is possible, however, to gather a little more information +concerning the owner of Crosby Place. The records at Guildhall tell +us that in 1466, the seventh year of Edward IV., John Crosby, Grocer, +was elected with three others a Member of Parliament. He was also +elected in the same year one of the auditors of the City and Bridge +House. In 1468 we find him elected Alderman of Broad Street Ward, and +two years later Sheriff of London. He took a prominent part in the old +city life of London, and was a prominent member of two of the old City +Companies, the Grocers and the Woolmen. Of the former he twice served +the office of warden, and preserved a strong affection for his company, +bequeathing to it by his will considerable gifts. The honourable and +important post of Mayor of the Staple at Calais was also conferred upon +him. + +He seems to have been a brave and valiant man, as well as a successful +trader and good citizen. During his time the safety of the City of +London was endangered owing to the attack of Thomas Nevil, the bastard +Lord Falconbridge, to which reference has already been made. Stow +tells the story graphically. This filibusterer came with his rebel +company and a great navy of ships near to the Tower-- + + "Whereupon the mayor and aldermen fortified all along the + Thames side, from Baynard's Castle to the Tower, with armed + men, guns and other instruments of war, to resist the invasion + of the mariners, whereby the Thames side was safely preserved + and kept by the aldermen and other citizens that assembled + thither in great numbers. Whereupon the rebels, being denied + passage through the city that way, set upon Aeldgate, + Bishopsgate, Criplegate, Aeldersgate, London Bridge, and along + the river of Thames, shooting arrows and guns into the city, + fired the suburbs, and burnt more than three score houses. + And farther, on Sunday, the eleventh of May, five thousand of + them assaulting Aeldgate, won the bulwarks, and entered the + city; but the portclose being let down, such as had entered + were slain, and Robert Basset, portcullis alderman of Aeldgate + ward, with the recorder, commanded in the name of God to + draw up the portclose; which being done, they issued out, + and with sharp shot and fierce fight, put their enemies back + so far as St. Bottolph's Church, by which time Earl Rivers, + and lieutenant of the Tower, was come with a fresh company, + which joining together discomfited the rebels, and put them to + flight, whom the said Rober, Basset with the other citizens + chased to the Mile's End, and from thence, some to Poplar, + some to Stratford, slew many, and took many of them prisoners. + In which space the Bastard, having assayed other places on the + water side, and little prevailed, fled toward his ships." + +In this determined defence of the city against a formidable attack, +John Crosbie took a leading part, bravely contending against the forces +of the foe and fighting fiercely. Twelve aldermen with the recorder +were knighted in the field by King Edward IV., and amongst those so +honoured were the Lord Mayor of London, William Taylor, and John +Crosby. Our hero was no carpet knight, no poor-spirited tradesman and +man of peace. Like many other famous citizens of his age, he could don +his armour and fight for his King and country, and proved himself a +gallant leader of a citizen army, the best sort of army in the world. +He was a devoted adherent of the House of York, and a favourite of +Edward IV., who sent him on an important embassage to the Duke of +Burgundy, who had married Elizabeth of York, the King's sister. The +secret object of the mission was an alliance against Francis I. of +France. The embassy was also sent to the Duke of Brittany with the same +object, and also to secure the persons of the Earls of Richmond and +Pembroke, who had taken refuge in France, and there felt themselves +secure. The future Richard III. was nearly persuaded to return to +England; his foot was almost on the ship's deck, when, fortunately for +him, his voyage was prevented. If he had continued his journey he would +never have worn a crown, as he would have lacked a head whereon to +place it. + +Sir John Crosby not long before his death began to build the beautiful +house in Bishopsgate "in the place of certain tenements, with their +appurtenances let to him by Alice Ashfield, Prioress of St. Helen's.... +This house he built of stone and timber, very large and beautiful, +and the highest at that time in London," as Stow records. The whole +structure was known as Crosby Place, and rivalled the dimensions of a +palace. All that remained of this magnificent building was the Hall, +together with the Council Room and an ante-room, forming two sides +of a quadrangle. It was built of stone, and measured 54 feet by 27 +feet, and was 40 feet in height. The Hall was lighted by a series of +eight Perpendicular windows on one side and six on the other, and by +a beautifully-constructed octagonal bay window. It had a fine roof +of exquisite workmanship richly ornamented, and a wide chimney. Much +of the original stone pavement had vanished. The Council Chamber was +nearly as large as the hall, being only 14 feet less in length. + +Crosby Hall has been the scene of many notable historic scenes. In the +play of "Edward IV." by Heywood, Sir John Crosby figures as Lord Mayor +of London, a position which he never occupied, and the King dines with +him and the Alderman after the defeat of the rebel Falconbridge at +Crosby Hall. He had just received the honour of knighthood, and thus +muses:-- + + "Ay, marry, Crosby! this befits thee well. + But some will marvel that, with scarlet gown, + I wear a gilded rapier by my side." + +It is quite possible that the King thus dined with his favourite, but +there is no historical account that confirms the poet's play. The +builder did not long enjoy his beautiful house, and died in 1475, +leaving a second wife and a daughter by his first wife, whom he seemed +to have loved with a more ardent affection than his second spouse. Soon +after his death the man whom he tried to trap in France, Richard, Duke +of Gloucester, came to reside here, and made it the scene of endless +plots and conspiracies against his luckless nephews and his many +enemies. Crosby Place is frequently alluded to by Shakespeare in his +play, "Richard the Third." Gloucester tells Catesby to report to him at +Crosby Place the treacherous murder of the Princes in the Tower, and he +bids the Lady Anne to "presently repair to Crosby Place." + +[Illustration: ST. PAUL'S CATHEDRAL, WITH LORD MAYOR'S SHOW ON THE +WATER. + +_Engraved by Pugh, 1804._] + +The house in 1502 passed into the possession of Sir Bartholomew Reed, +Lord Mayor, and then to John Best, Alderman, from whom it was purchased +by Sir Thomas More, the famous Lord Chancellor. Doubtless it was in the +chambers of Crosby Place that he wrote his _Utopia_. He sold the lease +to his beloved friend, Antonio Bonvisi, an Italian gentleman, who had +long lived in England; and when the Dissolution of Monasteries took +place, and the possessions of the Priory of St. Helen's were seized by +the Crown, the King allowed the Italian to retain possession of Crosby +Place. We need not record all its worthy owners. It was frequently used +as a fitting place for the lodging of foreign ambassadors, and here +Sir John Spencer, having restored the house, kept his mayoralty in +1594. Enormously wealthy, he lived in great splendour and entertained +lavishly. He was a great favourite of Queen Elizabeth. It was not +from Crosby Hall, but from his house at Canonbury, that his only +daughter effected her escape in a baker's basket in order to wed the +handsome Lord Compton. Terrible was the father's wrath, and everyone +knows the charming story of the Queen's tactful intervention, how she +induced Sir John to stand as sponsor with her for an unknown boy, whom +Sir John declared should be the heir of all his wealth, and how this +boy was, of course, Lady Compton's child, and how a full reconciliation +was effected. It is a very pretty story. It is not so pleasant to read +of the disastrous effect of the possession of so much wealth had on +the brain of Lord Compton, when he came into possession of his lady's +riches. She was a little vixenish, spoilt and exacting, if she really +intended seriously the literal meaning of that well-known letter which +she wrote setting forth her needs and requirements. It is too long to +quote. Lord Compton was created Earl of Northampton, and that precious +child of his when he grew to man's estate was killed fighting for the +Royalist cause in the Civil War. + +During that disastrous time Crosby became a prison for Royalists, and +later on a great part of the house was destroyed by fire, and its +ancient glories departed. For a hundred years the Hall was used as a +Nonconformist chapel. In 1778 part of the premises was converted into +a place of business by Messrs. Holmes and Hall, the rest being used +as private dwellings. It provided a model for the banqueting-hall of +Arundel Castle, and some of the carved stones of the Council Chamber +were removed to Henley-upon-Thames to adorn a dairy. Alien buildings +soon covered the site of the destroyed portion of the old house. In +1831 it was left forlorn and untenanted, and in a state of considerable +decay. Then arose a considerable excitement, of which the struggle +of the present year reminds us. Crosby Hall was doomed. But zealous +lovers of the antiquities of the city determined to try to save it. +An appeal was made, and a restoration fund started, though, like many +other restoration funds, it proved itself inadequate. A benevolent +lady, Miss Hackett, gallantly came to the rescue, and practically saved +Crosby Hall. Her idea was to convert it into a lecture hall for the +Gresham Professors; but this plan came to nothing, though the building +was repaired, the south wall of the Throne and Council Chambers +being rebuilt. Then a company was formed to take over Miss Hackett's +interest, and the Crosby Hall Literary and Scientific Institution +was formed, but that scheme came to nothing. Then it was bought by +Messrs. F. Gordon & Co., who restored the building, attached to it an +annex of half-timbered construction, and converted the premises into +a restaurant. Thus it remained for several years. Recently the site +was acquired by a banking company, and its demolition was threatened. +Immediate action was taken by Sir Vesey Strong, the Lord Mayor, and +others, to save the building. The fight was fought strenuously and +bravely. Apathy was found in some quarters where it would least have +been expected, and all efforts were fruitless. It is deplorable to have +to record that the last of the mansions of the old city magnates has +been allowed to disappear, and that Crosby Hall is now only a memory. + + + + +THE PAGEANT OF LONDON + +BY THE EDITOR + + +We have stated in the Preface that London needs no pageant or special +spectacular display in order to set forth its wonderful attractions. +London is in itself a pageant, far more interesting than any theatrical +representation; and in this final chapter we will enumerate some +of those other features of Old London life which have not found +description in the preceding pictures. We will "stand by and let the +pageant pass," or, rather, pass along the streets and make our own +pageant. + +The great city is always changing its appearance, and travellers +who have not seen it for several years scarcely know where they are +when visiting some of the transformed localities. But however great +the change, the city still exercises its powerful fascination on +all who have once felt its strangely magnetic force, its singular +attractiveness. Though the London County Council have effected amazing +"improvements," constructing a street which nobody wants and nobody +uses, and spending millions in widening Piccadilly; though private +enterprise pulls down ancient dwellings and rears huge hotels and +business premises in their places--it is still possible to conjure up +the memories of the past, and to picture to ourselves the multitudinous +scenes of historic interest which Old London has witnessed. Learned +writers have already in these volumes enabled us to transport ourselves +at will to the London of bygone times--to the mediæval city, with its +monasteries, its churches, its palaces, its tragedies; to Elizabethan +London, bright and gay, with young life pulsing through its veins; to +the London of Pepys, with its merry-makings, its coarseness, and its +vice. In this concluding chapter we will recall some other memories, +and try to fill the background to the picture. + +Westminster, the rival city, the city of the court, with its abbey and +its hall, we have not attempted to include in our survey. She must be +left in solitary state until, perhaps, a new volume of this series +may presume to describe her graces and perfections. The ever-growing +suburbs of the great city, the West End, the fashionable quarter, +Southern London across the river, with Lambeth and its memories of +archbishops--all this, and much else that deserves an honoured place in +the chronicles of the metropolis, we must perforce omit in our survey. +Some of the stories are too modern to please the taste of those who +revel in the past; and if the curious reader detects omissions, he may +console himself by referring to some of the countless other books and +guides which the attractions of London are ever forcing industrious +scribes to produce. + + +Christ's Hospital + +Many regrets were expressed when it was found necessary to remove +this ancient school from London, and to destroy the old buildings. Of +course, "everything is for the best in this best of possible worlds." +Boys, like plants, thrive better in the open country, and London +fogs are apt to becloud the brain as well as injure health. But the +antiquary may be allowed to utter his plaint over the demolition of +the old features of London life. The memorials of this ancient school +cannot be omitted from our collection. + +[Illustration: CHRIST'S HOSPITAL.] + +We are carried back in thought to the Friars, clad in grey habits, +girt with cord, and sandal shod, who settled in the thirteenth century +on the north side of what we now call Newgate Street, and, by the +generosity of pious citizens, founded their monastery. Thus John Ewin +gave them the land in the ward of Farringdon Without, and in the parish +of St. Nicholas Shambles; William Joyner built the choir; William +Wallis the nave; William Porter the chapter house; Gregory Bokesby +the dormitories, furnishing it with beds; Bartholomew de Castello +the refectory, where he feasted the friars on St. Bartholomew's Day. +Queen Margaret, the second wife of Edward I., was a great benefactor +of the order, and advanced two thousand marks towards the cost of a +large church, which was completed in 1327, and was a noble structure, +300 feet in length, 89 feet in breadth, and 74 feet high. "Dick" +Whittington built for the friars a splendid library, which was finished +in 1424. The church was the favoured resting-place of the illustrious +dead. Four queens, four duchesses, four countesses, one duke, two +earls, eight barons, and some thirty-five knights reposed therein. In +the choir there were nine tombs of alabaster and marble, surrounded +by iron railings, and monuments of marble and brass abounded. The +dissolution of monasteries came with greedy Henry, and the place was +rifled. The crown seized the goodly store of treasure; the church +became a receptacle for the prizes taken from the French; and Sir +Martin Bowes, Mayor of London, for the sum of £50, obtained all the +beautiful tombs and brasses, marble and alabaster, which were carted +away from the desecrated shrine. + +But Henry's conscience smote him. The death of Charles Brandon, Duke +of Suffolk, the King's boon companion, moved him "to bethink himself +of his end, and to do some good work thereunto," as Fuller states. +The church was reopened for worship, and Bishop Ridley, preaching at +Paul's Cross, announced the King's gift of the conventual grounds and +buildings, with the hospital of St. Bartholomew, for the relief of the +poor. Letters patent were issued in 1545, making over to the Mayor +and Commonalty of London for ever "the Grey Friars' Church, with all +the edifices and ground, the fratry, library, dortor, chapter-house, +great cloister, and the lesser tenements and vacant grounds, lead, +stone, iron, etc.; the hospital of St. Bartholomew, West Smithfield, +the church of the same, the lead, bells, and ornaments of the same +hospital, with all messuages, tenements, and appurtenances." + +It was a poor return to the Church for all of that the King had robbed +her. Moreover, he did not altogether abandon a little profit. He made +the monastic church, now called the Christ Church, do duty for the +parishes of St. Nicholas in the Shambles, St. Ewins, and part of St. +Sepulchre, uniting these into one parish, and pulling down the churches +of the first two parishes. It would be curious to discover what became +of the endowments of these parishes, and of the fabrics. + +[Illustration: Carrying the Crug-basket] + +For some years nothing was done to further the cause of this charity, +but in 1552, when Bishop Ridley, who was a mightily convincing +preacher, was discoursing upon charity before Edward VI., the boy-King +was so moved that he conversed with the bishop, and, together with +the Lord Mayor and aldermen of the city, determined to found three +hospitals--Christ's Hospital for the education of poor children, St. +Thomas's for the relief of the sick and diseased, and Bridewell for +the correction and amendment of the idle and the vagabond. Before his +last illness, Edward had just strength enough to sign the charter for +the founding of these institutions, ejaculating: "Lord, I yield Thee +most hearty thanks that Thou hast given me life thus long to finish +this work to the glory of Thy name." The good citizens of London, with +their accustomed charity, immediately set to work, before the granting +of the charter, to subscribe money for the repair of the old monastic +buildings, and in 1552 three hundred and forty children were admitted, +not so much for educational purposes as for their rescue from the +streets, and the provision of shelter, food, and clothing. It must have +been a welcome sight to the citizens to see them clothed in livery of +russet cotton, the boys with red caps, the girls with kerchiefs on +their heads, lining the procession when the Lord Mayor and aldermen +rode to St. Paul's on Christmas Day. On the following Easter the boys +and "mayden children" were in "plonket," or blue--hence the hospital +derived the name of the Blue Coat School. The dress of the boys, +concerning the origin of which many fanciful interpretations have been +made, is the costume of the period generally worn by apprentices and +serving men, consisting of a long blue coat, with leathern girdle, a +sleeveless yellow waistcoat and yellow stockings, clerical bands and a +small black cap completing the dress. "Four thousand marks by the year" +from the royal exchequer were granted by the King for the maintenance +of the school, which sum was largely supplemented by the citizens and +other pious benefactors, such as Lady Ramsay, who founded "a free +writing schoole for poor men's children" at the hospital. Camden says +that at the beginning of the seventeenth century six hundred children +were maintained and educated, and one thousand two hundred and forty +pensioners relieved by the hospital in alms, and, later on, as many as +one thousand one hundred and twenty children were cared for by this +institution. The governors, moreover, started "place houses" in other +districts--at Hertford, Ware, Reading, and Bloxburn--where boys were +educated. + +[Illustration: Wooden Platters and Beer Jack.] + +The buildings were greatly injured by the fire of 1666, when the +old monastic church was entirely destroyed. The great hall was soon +rebuilt by Sir John Frederick, and then the famous Royal Mathematical +School was founded through the exertions of Sir Robert Clayton, Sir +Jonas Moore, Sir Christopher Wren, Sir Charles Scarbrough, and Samuel +Pepys. King Charles II. granted a charter and £1,000 a year for seven +years, and the forty boys who composed the school were called "King's +boys." They were instructed in navigation, and wore a badge on the +left shoulder. A subordinate mathematical school, consisting of +twelve scholars, denoted "the Twelves," who wore a badge on the right +shoulder, was subsequently formed. Pepys took a keen interest in the +school, and a series of a large number of his letters is in existence +which show the efforts he made to maintain the mathematical school. He +tells also of a little romance connected with the hospital, which is +worth recording. There was at that time a grammar school for boys and +a separate school for girls. Two wealthy citizens left their estates, +one to a bluecoat boy, and the other to a bluecoat girl. Some of +the governors thought that it would be well if these two fortunate +recipients were married. So a public wedding was arranged at the +Guildhall chapel, where the ceremony was performed by the Dean of St. +Paul's, the bride, supported by two bluecoat boys, being given away by +the Lord Mayor, and the bridegroom, attired in blue satin, being led to +the altar by two bluecoat girls. + +[Illustration: Piggin: Wooden Spoon. Wooden Soup-ladle.] + +A noble gift of Sir Robert Clayton enabled the governors to rebuild the +east cloister and south front. The writing school was erected by Sir +Christopher Wren in 1694, at the expense of Sir John Moore. The ward +over the east side cloister was rebuilt in 1705 by Sir Francis Child, +the banker, and in 1795 the grammar school was erected. Some of the +buildings of the old monastery survived until the beginning of the last +century, but they were somewhat ruinous and unsafe, hence, in 1803, +a great building fund was formed. The hall erected after the great +fire was pulled down, and a vast building in the Tudor style begun in +1825, which was so familiar to all who passed along the eastern end +of Holborn. John Shaw was the architect. You will remember the open +arcade, the buttresses and octagonal towers, and the embattled and +pinnacled walls, and, above all, you will remember the crowd of happy +boys, clad in their picturesque garb, kicking about the merry football. +The dining hall was one of the finest rooms in London, being 187 feet +long, 51 feet wide, and 47 feet high; lighted by nine large windows, +those on the south side being filled with stained glass. There hung the +huge charter picture, representing Edward VI. presenting the charter +to the Lord Mayor, the Chancellor, officers of State, and children of +the school being in attendance. This picture has been attributed to +Holbein, but since the event occurred in 1553, and that artist could +have produced no work later than 1534, the tradition is erroneous. Two +portraits of Edward VI. are also in the possession of the hospital +attributed to Holbein, but they have been proved to be the work of a +later artist. Verrio's portrait of Charles II., and his picture of +James II. receiving the mathematical boys, are very large canvases. + +It is unnecessary to describe all the buildings which so recently +existed, but have now been swept away. It is more interesting to note +some of the curious customs which exist or formerly existed in the +school, and some of the noted of the old "Blues." Christ's Hospital was +a home of old customs, some of them, perhaps, little relished by the +scholars. Each boy had a wooden "piggin" for drinking small beer served +out of a leathern or wooden jack; a platter, spoon, and soup-ladle of +the same material. There was a quaint custom of supping in public on +Sundays during Lent, when visitors were admitted, and the Lord Mayor +or president of the governors sat in state. Quaint wooden candlesticks +adorned the tables, and, after the supper, were carried away in +procession, together with the tablecloths, crug-baskets, or baskets +used for carrying bread, bowls, jacks, and piggins. Before the supper +a hymn was sung, and a "Grecian," or head boy, read the prayers from +the pulpit, silence being enforced by three blows of a wooden hammer. +The supper then began, consisting of bread and cheese, and the visitors +used to walk about between the tables. Then followed the solemn +procession of the boys carrying their goods, and bowing repeatedly to +the governors and their guests. It was a pleasing custom, honoured +by the presence of many distinguished guests, and Queen Victoria and +Prince Albert on one occasion witnessed the spectacle. + +[Illustration: CHRIST'S HOSPITAL: THE GARDEN.] + +Then there were the annual orations on St. Matthew's Day, commemorating +the foundation of the school, and attended by the civic magnates. +A state service was held in Christ Church, Newgate Street, and, +afterwards, the Grecians delivered speeches, and a collection was made +for the support of these headboys when they went to the University. +The beadles delivered up their staves to the Court, and if no fault +was found with these officers their badges were returned to them. The +Company was regaled with "sweet cakes and burnt wine." + +At Easter there were solemn processions--first, on Easter Monday, to +the Mansion House, when the Lord Mayor was escorted by the boys to +Christ Church to hear the Spital or hospital sermon. On Easter Tuesday +again the scholars repaired to the Mansion House, and were regaled +with a glass of wine, in lieu of which lemonade, in more recent times, +could be obtained, two buns, and a shilling fresh from the Mint, +the senior scholars receiving an additional sum, and the Grecians +obtained a guinea. Again the Spital sermon was preached. The boys were +entitled, by ancient custom, to sundry privileges--to address the +sovereign on his visiting the city, and the "King's boys" were entitled +to be presented at the first drawing-room of the season, to present +their charts for inspection, and to receive sundry gifts. By ancient +privilege they were entitled to inspect all the curiosities in the +Tower of London free of any charge, and these at one time included a +miniature zoological garden. + +[Illustration: OLD STAIRCASE.] + +Many are the notable men renowned in literature and art who have sprung +from this famous school. Charles Lamb, S. T. Coleridge, Leigh Hunt, +and countless other men might be mentioned who have done honour to +their school. Some of their recollections of old manners reveal some +strange educational methods--the severe thrashings, the handcuffing of +runaways, the confining in dungeons, wretched holes, where the boys +could just find room to lie down on straw, and were kept in solitary +confinement and fed worse than prisoners in modern gaols. Bread and +beer breakfasts were hardly the best diet for boys, and the meat does +not always appear to have been satisfactory. However, all these bygone +abuses have long ago disappeared. For some years the future of the +hospital was shrouded in uncertainty. At length it was resolved to +quit London, and now the old buildings have been pulled down, and the +school has taken a new lease of life and settled at Horsham, where +all will wish that it may have a long and prosperous career. We may +well conclude this brief notice of the old school in the words of the +School Commissioners of 1867, who stated: "Christ's Hospital is a thing +without parallel in the country and _sui generis_. It is a grand relic +of the mediæval spirit--a monument of the profuse munificence of that +spirit, and of that constant stream of individual beneficence, which +is so often found to flow around institutions of that character. It +has kept up its main features, its traditions, its antique ceremonies, +almost unchanged, for a period of upwards of three centuries. It has +a long and goodly list of worthies." We know not how many of these +antique ceremonies have survived its removal, but we venture to hope +that they may still exist, and that the authorities have not failed to +maintain the traditions that Time has consecrated. + + +The City Churches + +In the pageant of London no objects are more numerous and conspicuous +than the churches which greet us at every step. In spite of the large +number which have disappeared, there are very many left. There they +stand in the centre of important thoroughfares, in obscure courts and +alleys--here surrounded by high towering warehouses; there maintaining +proud positions, defying the attacks of worldly business and affairs. A +whole volume would be required to do justice to the city churches, and +we can only glance at some of the most striking examples. + +The Great Fire played havoc with the ancient structures, and involved +in its relentless course many a beautiful and historic church. But some +few of them are left to us. We have already seen St. Bartholomew's, +Smithfield, and glanced at the church of St. Helen, Bishopsgate, and +old St Paul's. Wren's St. Paul's Cathedral has so often been described +that it is not necessary to tell again the story of its building.[11] +"Destroyed by the Great Fire, rebuilt by Wren," is the story of most of +the city churches; but there were some few which escaped. At the east +end of Great Tower Street stands All Hallows Barking, so called from +having belonged to the abbey of Barking, Essex. This narrowly escaped +the fire, which burned the dial, and porch, and vicarage house. Its +style is mainly Perpendicular, with a Decorated east window, and has +some good brasses. St. Andrew's Undershaft, Leadenhall Street, opposite +to which the May-pole was annually raised until "Evil May-day" put an +end to the merry-makings, was rebuilt in 1520-32, and contains some +mural paintings, much stained glass, and many brasses and monuments, +including that of John Stow, the famous London antiquary. St. Catherine +Cree, in the same street, was rebuilt in 1629, and consecrated by +Laud. St. Dunstan's-in-the-East was nearly destroyed, and restored +by Wren, the present nave being rebuilt in 1817. St. Dunstan's, +Stepney, preserves its fifteenth century fabric, and St. Ethelburga's, +Bishopsgate, retains some of its Early English masonry, and St. +Ethelreda's, Ely Place, is the only surviving portion of the ancient +palace of the Bishops of Ely. St. Giles', Cripplegate, stands near the +site of a Saxon church built in 1090 by Alfun, the first hospitaller of +the Priory of St. Bartholomew. Suffering from a grievous fire in 1545, +it was partially rebuilt, and in 1682 the tower was raised fifteen +feet. Many illustrious men were buried here, including John Fox, John +Speed, the historian, John Milton and his father, several actors of +the Fortune Theatre, and Sir Martin Frobisher. In 1861 the church +was restored in memory of Milton, and a monument raised to him. This +church saw the nuptials of Oliver Cromwell and Elizabeth Bowchier in +1620. All Hallows Staining, Mark Lane, escaped the fire, and its tower +and west end are ancient. St. James', Aldgate, was built in 1622, and +escaped the fire, which might have spared more important edifices; +and St. Olave's, Hart Street, a building which shows Norman, Early +English, Decorated, and Perpendicular work, was happily preserved. This +is sometimes called Pepys's church, since he often mentions it in his +diary, and lies buried here. There are other interesting monuments, +and in the churchyard lie some of the victims of the Great Plague. St. +Sepulchre's, near Newgate, was damaged by the fire, and refitted by +Wren, but the main building is fifteenth century work. Several churches +escaped the Great Fire, but were subsequently pulled down and rebuilt. +Amongst these are St. Alphege, London Wall; St. Botolph-without, +Aldersgate; St. Botolph's, St. Martin's Outwich. St. Mary Woolnoth was +also damaged by the fire, and repaired by Wren. It stands on the site +of an early church, which was rebuilt in the fifteenth century; but the +greater part of the present church was built by Hawksmoor in 1716. + +A strange, weird, desolate city met the eyes of the people of London +when the Great Fire had died away. No words can describe that scene +of appalling ruin and desolation. But, with the energy for which +Englishmen are remarkable, they at once set to work to restore their +loss, and a master-mind was discovered who could grapple with the +difficulty and bring order out of chaos. This wonderful genius was Sir +Christopher Wren. He devised a grand scheme for the rebuilding of the +city. Evelyn planned another. But property owners were tenacious of +their rights, and clung to their own parcels of ground; so these great +schemes came to nothing. However, to Wren fell the task of rebuilding +the fallen churches, and no less than fifty-two were entrusted to his +care. He had no one to guide him; no school of artists or craftsmen +to help him in the detail of his buildings; no great principles of +architecture to direct him. Gothic architecture was dead, if we except +the afterglow that shone in Oxford. He might have followed his great +predecessor, Inigo Jones, and produced works after an Italian model. +But he was no copyist. Taking the classic orders as his basis, he +devised a style of his own, suitable for the requirements of the time +and climate, and for the form of worship and religious usages of the +Anglican Church. "It is enough for Romanists to hear the murmur of the +mass, and see the elevation of the Host; but our churches are to be +fitted for auditories," he once said. + +Of the churches built by Wren, eighteen beautiful buildings have +already been destroyed. St. Christopher-le-Stocks is swallowed up +by the Bank of England; St. Michael, Crooked Lane, disappeared +in 1841, when approaches were made to New London Bridge; St. +Bartholomew-by-the-Exchange made way for the Sun Fire Office; and +St. Benet Fink was pulled down because of its nearness to the Royal +Exchange. Since the passing of the Union of City Benefices Act in 1860, +fourteen churches designed by Wren have succumbed, and attacks on +others have been with difficulty warded off.[12] + +The characteristics of Wren's genius were his versatility, imagination, +and originality. We will notice some of the results of these qualities +of mind. The tower hardly ever enters into the architectural treatment +of the interior. It is used as an entrance lobby or vestry. His +simplest plan was a plain oblong, without columns or recesses, such +as St. Mildred's, Bread Street, or St. Nicholas', Cole Abbey. St. +Margaret, Lothbury, St. Vedast, St. Clement, Eastcheap, have this +simple form, with the addition of an aisle or a recess. His next plan +consists of the central nave and two aisles, with or without clerestory +windows; of this St. Andrew Wardrobe and St. Magnus the Martyr furnish +good examples. The third plan is the domed church, such as St. Swithun +and St. Mary Abchurch. The merits and architectural beauties of Wren's +churches have been recently described in an able lecture delivered by +Mr. Arthur Keen before the Architectural Association, a lecture which +we should like to see expanded to the size of a book, and enriched with +copious drawings. It would be of immense service in directing the minds +of the citizens of London to the architectural treasures of which they +are the heirs. + +The churches are remarkable for their beautifully carved woodwork, +often executed or designed by Grinling Gibbons or his pupils. Pews, +pulpits, with elaborate sounding boards, organ cases, altar pieces, +were all elaborately carved, and a gallery usually was placed at the +west end. Paintings by Sir James Thornhill and other artists adorn +his churches, and the art of Strong the master mason, Jennings the +carpenter, and Tijou the metal worker, all combined to beautify his +structures. + +Within the limits of our space it is only possible to glance at the +interiors of a few of these churches, and note some of the treasures +therein contained. St. Andrew's, Holborn, has its original fifteenth +century tower, recarved in 1704. It is known as the "Poet's Church," +on account of the singers connected with it, including a contemporary +of Shakespeare, John Webster, Robert Savage, Chatterton, and Henry +Neele, and can boast of such illustrious rectors as Bishops Hacket +and Stillingfleet, and Dr. Sacheverel. The spire of Christ Church, +Spitalfields, built by Hawksmoor, is the loftiest in London, and +has a fine peal of bells. In the church there is an early work of +Flaxman--the monument of Sir Robert Ladbrooke, Lord Mayor. The name +of St. Clement Danes reminds us of the connection of the sea-rovers +with London. Strype says that the church was so named "because Harold, +a Danish King, and other Danes, were buried there, and in that +churchyard." He tells how this Harold, an illegitimate son of Canute, +reigned three years, and was buried at Westminster; but, afterwards, +Hardicanute, the lawful son of Canute, in revenge for the injury done +to his mother and brother, ordered the body to be dug up and thrown +into the Thames, where it was found by a fisherman and buried in this +churchyard. There seems to be no doubt that there was a colony of +peaceful Danes in this neighbourhood, as testified by the Danish word +"Wych" given to a street hard by, and preserved in the modern Aldwych. +It was the oldest suburb of London, the village of Ældwic, and called +Aldewych. Oldwych close was in existence in the time of the Stuarts. +These people were allowed to reside between the Isle of Thorney, or +Westminster, and Ludgate, and, having become Christians, they built a +church for themselves, which was called _Ecclesia Clementis Danorum_. + +There is a wild story of the massacre of the Danes in this church in +the days of Ethelred, as recorded in Strype's _Continuation of Stow_, +and in the _Jomsvikinga Saga_. As Mr. Loftie has not found space in +_Saxon London_ to mention this colony of Danes and their doings, I +venture to quote a passage from Mr. Lethaby's _Pre-Conquest London_, +which contains some interesting allusions to these people: + + "We are told that Sweyn made warfare in the land of + King Ethelred, and drove him out of the land; he put + _Thingumannalid_ in two places. The one in Lundunaborg + (London) was ruled by Eilif Thorgilsson, who had sixty ships + in the Temps (Thames); the other was north in Sleswik. The + Thingamen made a law that no one should stay away a whole + night. They gathered at the Bura Church every night when a + large bell was rung, but without weapons. He who had command + in the town (London) was Ædric Streona. Ulfkel Snilling ruled + over the northern part of England (East Anglia). The power of + the Thingamen was great. There was a fair there (in London) + twice every twelve month, one about midsummer and the other + about midwinter. The English thought it would be the easiest + to slay the Thingamen while Cnut was young (he was ten winters + old) and Sweyn dead. About Yule, waggons went into the town to + the market, and they were all tented over by the treacherous + advice of Ulfkel Snelling and Ethelred's sons. Thord, a man + of the Thingumannalid, went out of the town to the house of + his mistress, who asked him to stay, because the death was + planned of all the Thingamen by Englishmen concealed in the + waggons, when the Danes would go unarmed to the church. Thord + went into the town and told it to Eilif. They heard the bell + ringing, and when they came to the churchyard there was a + great crowd who attacked them. Eilif escaped with three ships + and went to Denmark. Some time after, Edmund was made King. + After three winters, Cnut, Thorkel and Eric went with eight + hundred ships to England. Thorkel had thirty ships, and slew + Ulfkel Snilling, and married Ulfhild, his wife, daughter of + King Ethelred. With Ulfkel was slain every man on sixty ships, + and Cnut took Lundunaborg." + +Matthew, of Westminster, also records this massacre of the Danes, and +other authorities consider that the account in the _Saga_ is founded +on fact. However that may be, the Danes undoubtedly had a colony here +of their traders, merchants, and seamen, and dedicated their church +to their favourite saint, St. Clement, the patron of mariners, whose +constant emblem is an anchor. Nor was this the only location of the +Northmen. Southwark was their fortified trading place, where they +had a church dedicated to St. Olaf, the patron saint of Norway. His +name remains in Tooley Street, not a very evident but certainly true +derivative of St. Olaf's Street. There are three churches dedicated to +St. Olave, who was none other than St. Olaf. St. Magnus, too, tells +of the Northmen, who was one of their favourite saints. Going back to +the church of St. Clement Danes, we notice that it was rebuilt in 1682 +under the advice of Wren, the tower and steeple being added forty years +later. Dr. Johnson used to attend here, and a pillar near his seat +bears the inscription: + + "In this pew and beside this pillar, for many years attended + Divine Service, the celebrated Dr. Johnson, the philosopher, + the poet, the great lexicographer, the profound moralist, and + chief writer of his time. Born 1709, died 1794. In remembrance + and honour of noble faculties, nobly employed, some + inhabitants of the parish of St. Clement Danes have placed + this slight memorial, A.D. 1851." + +One of the most important city churches is St. Mary-le-Bow, Cheapside. +It is one of Wren's finest works; but the old church, destroyed by the +Great Fire, had a notable history, being one of the earliest Norman +buildings in the country. Stow says it was named St. Mary _de Arcubus_ +from its being built on arches of stone, these arches forming a crypt, +which still exists. The tower was a place of sanctuary, but not a very +effectual one, as Longbeard, a ringleader of a riot, was forced out of +his refuge by fire in 1190, and Ducket, a goldsmith, was murdered. The +Bow bells are famous, and one of them was rung nightly for the closing +of shops. Everyone knows the protesting rhyme of the 'prentices of the +Cheap when the clerk rang the bell late, and the reassuring reply of +that officer, who probably feared the blows of their staves. Lanterns +hung in the arches of the spire as beacons for travellers. The bells +of Bow are said to have recalled Dick Whittington, and those who have +always lived in the district where their sound can be heard are deemed +very ignorant folk by their country cousins. Whittington's church was +St. Michael's Paternoster Royal, Thames Street, which he rebuilt, and +wherein he was buried, though his body has been twice disturbed. The +church was destroyed by the Great Fire, and rebuilt by Wren. + +It is impossible for us to visit all the churches, each of which +possesses some feature of interest, some historical association. They +impart much beauty to every view of the city, and not one of them can +be spared. Sometimes, in this utilitarian age, wise men tell us that +we should pull down many of these ancient buildings, sell the valuable +sites, and build other churches in the suburbs, where they would be +more useful. Eighteen of Wren's churches have been thus destroyed, +besides several of later date. The city merchants of old built their +churches, and made great sacrifices in doing so, for the honour of God +and the good of their fellow-men, and it is not for their descendants +to pull them down. If suburban people want churches, they should +imitate the example of their forefathers, and make sacrifices in order +to build them. Streets, old palaces, interesting houses, are fast +vanishing; the churches--at least, some of them--remain to tell the +story of the ancient civic life, to point the way to higher things amid +the bustling scenes of mercantile activity and commercial unrest. The +readers of these Memorials will wish "strength i' th' arme" to the City +Churches Preservation Society to do battle for these historic landmarks +of ancient London. + + +The Pageant of the Streets + +Nothing helps us to realise the condition of ancient London, its growth +and expansion, like a careful study of its street-names. It shows +that in the Middle Ages London was very different from that great, +overcrowded, noisy, and far-extending metropolis which we see to-day. +It is difficult for us in these days to realise the small extent of +ancient London, when Charing was a village situated between the cities +of Westminster and London; or, indeed, to go back in imagination even +a century or two ago, when the citizens could go a-nutting on Notting +Hill, and when it was possible to see Temple Bar from Leicester Square, +then called Leicester Fields, and with a telescope observe the heads of +the Scotch rebels which adorned the spikes of the old gateway. In the +early coaching days, on account of the impassable roads, it required +three hours to journey from Paddington to the city. Kensington, +Islington, Brompton, and Paddington were simply country villages, +separated by fields and pastures from London; and the names of such +districts as Spitalfields, Bethnal Green, Smithfield, Moorfields, and +many others, now crowded with houses, indicate the once rural character +of the neighbourhood. + +The area enclosed by the city walls was not larger than Hyde Park. +Their course has been already traced, but we can follow them on the +map of London by means of the names of the streets. Thus, beginning +at the Tower, we pass on to Aldgate, and then to Bishopsgate. Outside +was a protecting moat, which survives in the name Houndsditch, wherein +doubtless dead dogs found a resting place. Then we pass on to London +Wall, a street which sufficiently tells its derivation. Outside this +part of the wall there was a fen, or bog, or moor, which survives in +Moorfields, Moorgate Street, and possibly Finsbury; and Artillery +Street shows where the makers of bows and arrows had their shops, +near the artillery ground, where the users of these weapons practised +at the butts. The name of the Barbican tells of a tower that guarded +Aldersgate, and some remains of the wall can still be seen in Castle +Street and in the churchyard of St. Giles', Cripplegate, the derivation +of which has at length been satisfactorily determined by Mr. Loftie in +our first chapter, and has nothing to do with the multitude of cripples +which Stow imagined congregated there. Thence we go to Newgate and the +Old Bailey, names that tell of walls and fortifications. Everyone knows +the name of the Bailey court of a castle, which intervened between the +keep or stronger portion of the defences and the outer walls or gate. +The court of the Old Bailey suggests to modern prisoners other less +pleasing ideas. Now the wall turns southward, in the direction of +Ludgate, where it was protected by a stream called the Fleet, whence +the name Fleet Street is derived. Canon Isaac Taylor suggests that +Fleet Street is really Flood Street, from which Ludgate or Floodgate +takes its name. We prefer the derivation given by Mr. Loftie. On the +south of Ludgate, and on the bank of the Thames, stood a mighty strong +castle, called Baynard Castle, constructed by William the Conqueror to +aid him, with the Tower of London, to keep the citizens in order. It +has entirely disappeared, but if you look closely at the map you will +find a wharf which records its memory, and a ward of the city also is +named after the long vanished stronghold. Now the course of the wall +follows the north bank of the river Thames, and the names Dowgate and +Billingsgate record its memory and of the city gates, which allowed +peaceable citizens to enter, but were strong to resist foes and rebels. + +Within these walls craftsmen and traders had their own particular +localities, the members of each trade working together side by side in +their own street or district; and although now some of the trades have +disappeared, and traders are no longer confined to one district, the +street-names record the ancient home of their industries. The two great +markets were the Eastcheap and Westcheap, now Cheapside. The former, in +the days of Lydgate, was the abode of the butchers. Martin Lyckpenny +sings: + + "Then I hyed me into Est-chepe + One cryes ribbes of befe and many a pye." + +And near the butchers naturally were the cooks, who flourished in +Cooks' Row, along Thames Street. Candlewick Street took its name from +the chandlers. Cornhill marks the site of the ancient corn market. +Haymarket, where the theatre is so well known, was the site of a +market for hay, but that is comparatively modern. The citizens did +not go so far out of the city to buy and sell hay. Stow says: "Then +higher in Grasse Street is that parish church of St. Bennet, called +Grasse Church, of the herb market there kept"; and though he thinks +Fenchurch Street may be derived from a fenny or moorish ground, +"others be of opinion that it took that name of _Fænum_, that is, hay +sold there, as Grasse Street took the name of grass, or herbs, there +sold." Wool was sold near the church of St. Mary Woolchurch, which +stood on the site of the present Mansion House, and in the churchyard +was a beam for the weighing of wool. The name survives in that of St. +Mary Woolnoth, with which parish the other was united when St. Mary +Woolchurch was destroyed by the Great Fire. Lombard Street marks the +settlement of the great Lombardi merchants, the Italian financiers, +bankers, and pawnbrokers, who found a convenient centre for their +transactions midway between the two great markets, Eastcheap and +Cheapside. Sometimes the name of the street has been altered in course +of time, so that it is difficult to determine the original meaning. +Thus Sermon Lane has nothing to do with parsons, but is a corruption +of Sheremoniers' Lane, who "cut and rounded the plates to be coined +and stamped into sterling pence," as Stow says. Near this lane was the +Old Exchange, where money was coined. Later on, this coining was done +at a place still called the mint, in Bermondsey. Stow thought that +Lothbury was so called because it was a loathsome place, on account +of the noise made by the founders; but it is really a corruption +of Lattenbury, the place where these founders "cast candlesticks, +chafing-dishes, spice mortars, and such like copper or laton works." +Of course, people sold their fowls in the Poultry; fish and milk and +bread shops were to be found in the streets bearing these names; and +leather in Leather Lane and, perhaps, Leadenhall Market, said to be +a corruption of Leatherhall, though Stow does not give any hint of +this. Sopers' Lane was the abode of the soapmakers; Smithfield of the +smiths. Coleman Street derives its name from the man who first built +and owned it, says Stow; but later authorities place there the coalmen +or charcoal-burners. As was usual in mediæval towns, the Jews had a +district for themselves, and resided in Old Jewry and Jewin Street. + +The favourite haunt of booksellers and publishers, Paternoster +Row, derives its name, according to Stow, "from the stationers or +text-writers that dwelled there, who wrote and sold all sorts of books +then in use, namely, A. B. C. or Absies, with the Paternoster, Ave, +Creed, Graces, etc. There dwelled also turners of beads, and they are +called Paternoster-makers. At the end of Paternoster Row is Ave Mary +Lane, so called upon the like occasion of text-writers and bead-makers +then dwelling there." Creed Lane and Amen Corner make up the names of +these streets where the worshippers in Old St. Paul's found their helps +to devotion. + +Old London was a city of palaces as well as of trade. All the great +nobles of England had their town houses, or inns, as they were called. +They had vast retinues of armed men, and required no small lodging. +The Dukes of Exeter and Somerset, the Earl of Northumberland, and many +others, had their town houses, every vestige of which has passed away, +though their names are preserved by the streets and sites on which they +stood. The Strand, for example, is full of the memories of these old +mansions, which began to be erected along the river bank when the Wars +of the Roses had ceased, and greater security was felt by the people +of England, who then began to perceive that it might be possible to +live in safety outside the walls of the city. Northumberland Avenue +tells of the house of the Earls of Northumberland, which stood so +late as 1875; Burleigh Street and Essex Street recall the famous Sir +William Cecil, Lord Burleigh, whose son was created Earl of Essex. +Arundel House, the mansion of the Howards, is marked by Arundel Street, +Surrey Street, Howard Street, Norfolk Street, these being the titles +borne by scions of this famous family. The readers of the chapter on +the Royal Palaces need not be told of the traditions preserved by the +names Somerset House and the Savoy. Cecil Street and Salisbury Street +recall the memory of Salisbury House, built by Sir Robert Cecil, Earl +of Salisbury, brother of the Earl of Essex mentioned above. Then we +have Bedford Street, with Russell Street, Southampton Street, Tavistock +Street, around Covent Garden. These names unfold historical truths. +Covent Garden is an abbreviated form of Convent Garden, the garden +of the monks of Westminster. It was granted to the Russell family at +the dissolution of monasteries, and the Russells, Earls of Bedford, +erected a mansion here, which has long disappeared, but has left traces +behind in the streets named after the various titles to which members +of the Russell family attained. In another part of London we find +traces of the same family. After leaving Covent Garden they migrated +to Bloomsbury, and there we find Bedford Square, Southampton Street, +Russell Square, Tavistock Square, and Chenies Street, this latter being +named after their seat in Buckinghamshire. Craven buildings, near +Drury Lane, tells of the home of Lord Craven, the devoted admirer of +the "Queen of Hearts," the beautiful Queen of Bohemia. Clare House, +the mansion of the Earls of Clare, survives in Clare Market; and +Leicester Square points to the residence of the favourite of Queen +Elizabeth, and Villiers Street and Buckingham Street to that of another +court favourite, the Duke of Buckingham. The bishops also had their +town houses, and their sites are recorded by such names as Ely Place, +Salisbury Square, Bangor Court, and Durham Street. + +We might wander westward, and trace the progress of building and of +fashion, and mark the streets that bear witness to the memories of +great names in English history; but that would take us far beyond our +limits. Going back citywards, we should find many other suggestive +names of streets--those named after churches; those that record the +memories of religious houses, such as Blackfriars, Austin Friars, +Crutched Friars; those that mark the course of many streams and brooks +that now find their way underground to the great river. All these names +recall glimpses of Old London, and must be cherished as priceless +memorials of ancient days. + + +The Heart of the City + +In the centre of London, at the eastern end of Cheapside, stand the +Royal Exchange, the Mansion House, and Bank of England, all of which +merit attention. The official residence of the Lord Mayor--associated +with the magnificent hospitality of the city, with the memory of many +distinguished men who have held the office of Chief Magistrate, and +with the innumerable charitable schemes which have been initiated +there--was built by Dance, and completed in 1753. It is in the Italian +style, and resembles a Palladian Palace. Its conspicuous front, with +Corinthian columns supporting a pediment, in the centre of which is a +group of allegorical sculpture, is well known to all frequenters of +the city. Formerly it had an open court, but this has been roofed over +and converted into a grand banquetting hall, known as the Egyptian +Hall. There are other dining rooms, a ball room, and drawing room, all +superbly decorated, and the Mansion House is a worthy home for the Lord +Mayor of London. + +The Bank of England commenced its career in 1691; founded by William +Paterson, a Scotsman, and incorporated by William III. The greatest +monetary establishment in the world at first managed to contain its +wealth in a single chest, not much larger than a seaman's box. Its +first governor was Sir John Houblon, who appears largely in the recent +interesting volume on the records of the Houblon family, and whose +house and garden were on part of the site of the present bank. The +halls of the mercers and grocers provided a home for the officials in +their early dealings. The site of the bank was occupied by a church, +St. Christopher-le-Stocks, three taverns, and several houses. These +have all been removed to make room for the extensions which from time +to time were found necessary. The back of the Threadneedle Street front +is the earliest portion--built in 1734, to which Sir Robert Taylor +added two wings; and then Sir John Soane was appointed architect, and +constructed the remainder of the present buildings in the Corinthian +style, after the model of the Temple of the Sibyl at Tivoli. There +have been several subsequent additions, including the heightening of +the Cornhill front by an attic in 1850. There have been many exciting +scenes without those sombre-looking walls. It has been attacked by +rioters. Panics have created "runs" on the bank; in 1745 the managers +just saved themselves by telling their agents to demand payment for +large sums in sixpences, which took a long time to count, the agents +then paying in the sixpences, which had to be again counted, and thus +preventing _bonâ-fide_ holders of notes presenting them. At one time +the corporation had a very insignificant amount of money in the bank, +and just saved themselves by issuing one pound notes. The history of +forgeries on the bank would make an interesting chapter, and the story +of its defence in the riots of 1780, when old inkstands were used as +bullets by the gallant defenders, fills a page of old-world romance. + +[Illustration: THE ROYAL EXCHANGE. + +_Engraved by Hollar, 1644._] + +But interesting as these buildings are, their stories pale before +that of the Royal Exchange. The present building was finished in +1844, and opened by her late Majesty Queen Victoria with a splendid +state and civic function. Its architecture is something after the +style of the Pantheon at Rome. Why the architects of that and earlier +periods always chose Italian models for their structures is one of the +mysteries of human error; but, as we have seen, all these three main +buildings in the heart of the city are copied from Italian structures. +William Tite was the architect, and he achieved no mean success. The +great size of the portico, the vastness of the columns, the frieze and +sculptured tympanum, and striking figures, all combine to make it an +imposing building. Upon the pedestal of the figure of "Commerce" is the +inscription: "The earth is the Lord's, and the fulness thereof." The +interior has been enriched by a series of mural paintings, representing +scenes from the municipal life of London, the work of eminent artists. + +This exchange is the third which has stood upon this site. The first +was built by Sir Thomas Gresham, one of the famous family of merchants +to whom London owes many benefits. It was a "goodly Burse," of Flemish +design, having been built by a Flemish architect and Flemish workmen, +and closely resembled the great Burse of Antwerp. The illustration, +taken from an old engraving by Hollar, 1644, shows the building with +its large court, with an arcade, a corridor or "pawn" of stalls above, +and, in the high-pitched roof, chambers with dormer windows. Above +the roofs a high bell-tower is seen, from which, at twelve o'clock at +noon and at six in the evening, a bell sounded forth that proclaimed +the call to 'Change. The merchants are shown walking or sitting on the +benches transacting their business. Each nationality or trade had its +own "walk." Thus there were the "Scotch walk," "Hanbro'," "Irish," +"East country," "Swedish," "Norway," "American," "Jamaica," "Spanish," +"Portugal," "French," "Greek," and "Dutch and Jewellers'" walks. When +Queen Elizabeth came to open the Exchange, the tradesmen began to use +the hundred shops in the corridor, and "milliners or haberdashers sold +mouse-traps, bird-cages, shoeing-horns, Jews' trumps, etc.; armourers, +that sold both old and new armour; apothecaries, booksellers, +goldsmiths, and glass-sellers." The Queen declared that this beautiful +building should be no longer called the Burse, but gave it the name +"The Royal Exchange." In the illustration some naughty boys have +trespassed upon the seclusion of the busy merchants, and the beadle is +endeavouring to drive them out of the quadrangle. + +This fine building was destroyed by the Great Fire, when all the +statues fell down save that of the founder, Sir Thomas Gresham. His +trustees, now known as the Gresham Committee, set to work to rebuild +it, and employed Edward German as their architect, though Wren gave +advice concerning the project. As usual, the citizens were not very +long in accomplishing their task, and three years after the fire the +second Exchange was opened, and resembled in plan its predecessor. Many +views of it appear in the Crace collection in the British Museum. In +1838 it was entirely destroyed by fire. In the clock-tower there was +a set of chimes, and the last tune they played, appropriately, was, +"There's nae luck about the house." As we have seen, in a few years the +present Royal Exchange arose, which we trust will be more fortunate +than its predecessors, and never fall a victim to the flames. + + * * * * * + +There is much else that we should like to see in Old London, and record +in these Memorials. We should like to visit the old fairs, especially +Bartholomew Fair, Smithfield, either in the days of the monks or with +my Lady Castlemaine, who came in her coach, and mightily enjoyed a +puppet show; and the wild beasts, dwarfs, operas, tight-rope dancing, +sarabands, dogs dancing the Morrice, hare beating a tabor, a tiger +pulling the feathers from live fowls, the humours of Punchinello, and +drolls of every degree. Pages might be written of the celebrities of +the fair, of the puppet shows, where you could see such incomparable +dramas as _Whittington and his Cat_, _Dr. Faustus_, _Friar Bacon_, +_Robin Hood and Little John_, _Mother Shipton_, together with "the +tuneful warbling pig of Italian race." But our pageant is passing, +and little space remains. We should like to visit the old prisons. A +friend of the writer, Mr. Milliken, has allowed himself to be locked +in all the ancient gaols which have remained to our time, and taken +sketches of all the cells wherein famous prisoners have been confined; +of gates, and bars, and bolts and doors, which have once restrained +nefarious gaol-birds. Terrible places they were, these prisons, wherein +prisoners were fleeced and robbed by governors and turnkeys, and, if +they had no money, were kicked and buffeted in the most merciless +manner. Old Newgate, which has just disappeared, has perhaps the most +interesting history. It began its career as a prison in the form of a +tower or part of the city gate. Thus it continued until the Great Fire, +after which it was restored by Wren. In our illustration of the old +gatehouse, it will be seen that it had a windmill at the top. This was +an early attempt at ventilation, in order to overcome the dread malady +called "gaol distemper," which destroyed many prisoners. Many notable +names appear on the list of those who suffered here, including several +literary victims, whose writings caused them grievous sufferings. +The prison so lately destroyed was designed by George Dance in 1770. +A recent work on architecture describes it as almost perfect of its +kind. Before it was completed it was attacked by the Gordon rioters, +who released the prisoners and set it on fire. It was repaired and +finished in 1782. Outwardly so imposing, inwardly it was, for a long +period, one of the worst prisons in London, full of vice and villainy, +unchecked, unreformed; while outside frequently gathered tumultuous +crowds to see the condemned prisoners hanged. We might have visited +also the debtors' prisons with Mr. Pickwick and other notables, if +our minds were not surfeited with prison fare; and even followed the +hangman's cart to Tyburn, to see the last of some notorious criminals. +Where the Ludgate Railway Station now stands was the famous Fleet +prison, which had peculiar privileges, the Liberty of the Fleet +allowing prisoners to go on bail and lodge in the neighbourhood of +the prison. The district extended from the entrance to St. Paul's +churchyard, Old Bailey, Ludgate Hill, to the Thames. Everyone has heard +of the Fleet marriages that took place in this curious neighbourhood. +On the other side of New Bridge Street there was a wild district called +Alsatia, extending from Fleet Street to the Thames, wherein, until +1697, cheats and scoundrels found a safe sanctuary, and could not be +disturbed. + +Again, we should like to visit the old public gardens, Vauxhall and +Ranelagh, in company with Horace Walpole, or with Miss Burney's +_Evelina_ or Fielding's _Amelia_, and note "the extreme beauty and +elegance of the place, with its 1,000 lamps"; "and happy is it for me," +the young lady remarks, "since to give an adequate idea of it would +exceed my power of description." + +But the pageant must at length pass on, and we must wake from the +dreams of the past to find ourselves in our ever growing, ever +changing, modern London. It is sufficient for us to reflect sometimes +on the past life of the great city, to see again the scenes which took +place in the streets and lanes we know so well, to form some ideas of +the characters and manners of our forefathers, and to gather together +some memorials of the greatest and most important city in the world. + +FOOTNOTES: + +[11] _Cf._ _Cathedral Churches of Great Britain._ (Dent & Co.) + +[12] _Cf._ Mr. Philip Norman's notes on a recent lecture by Mr. Arthur +Keen. _Architect_, December 27th, 1907. + + + + +INDEX + + +Abbey, Bermondsey, ii., 46 + +Abbot of Westminster and monks in Tower prison, i., 59 + +---- of Malmesbury, i., 159 + +Actor, Thomas Davies the, ii., 178 + +Addison at Wills' Coffee-house, ii., 178 + +Albemarle Club, ii., 110 + +---- Monk, Duke of, ii., 75 + +Albus, Liber, i., 122 + +Aldermanbury, St. Mary, ii., 31 + +Aldersgate, i., 21 + +Aldgate, i., 24; ii., 39 + +Aldwych, ii., 208 + +Alfred Club, ii., 107 + +---- the Great, i., 13, 19, 111 + +All Hallows Barking ii., 204 + +---- Staining, Mark Lane, ii., 205 + +---- the More, Church of, i., 230 + +Alpine Club, ii., 110 + +Alsatia, ii., 36 + +Anecdote of Charles II. and the Chaplains' dinner, ii., 62 + +"Angel Inn," Wych Street, ii., 131 + +Anglo-Saxon houses, i., 114 + +Anlaf the Dane, i., 10 + +Anthropological Institute, ii., 163 + +---- Society, ii., 162 + +Antiquaries, Society of, ii., 150, 153 + +Apothecaries' Company, i., 200 + +Apprentices of London, i., 123 + +---- dress of, i., 124 + +---- flogging of, i., 124 + +Archæological Association, British, ii., 163 + +---- Institute, ii., 164 + +Archbishop of Canterbury, William de Corbeil, i., 68 + +Archdeacon Hale, reforms of, i., 103 + +Archery, ii., 43 + +Architect, George Dance, i., 182 + +---- of Palace of Westminster, ii., 2 + +---- of Tower, Gundulf, i., 32, 33 + +Architecture, Crusaders' influence on, i., 134 + +_Armory, London's_, i., 240 + +Armourers' and Braziers' Company, i., 200, 201 + +Arms of the City and See of London, i., 233 + +Army and Navy Club, ii., 102 + +Arsenal, Tower an, i., 56, 60 + +Arthur's Club, ii., 101 + +Artillery Street, ii., 212 + +Artists, Blackfriars as abode of, ii., 49 + +Artizans' Houses, i., 125 + +Arts, Society of, ii., 154 + +Arundel House, ii., 216 + +Asiatic Society, Royal, ii., 158 + +Associates of the Temple, i., 136 + +Association, British Archæological, ii., 163 + +---- for the Advancement of Science, British, ii., 158 + +Associations of Covent Garden, Literary, ii., 178 + +---- of Pall Mall, Literary, ii., 179 + +---- of St. James' Street, Literary, ii., 180 + +---- of the Temple, Literary, i., 146 + +Athenæum Club, ii., 105 + +Augustine Friars, ii., 36 + +August Society of the Wanderers Club, ii., 101 + +Aulus Plautius, i., 6 + +Austin Friars, ii., 27, 217 + +Authors' Club, ii., 110 + +Authors of the Temple, ii., 174 + +Ave Mary Lane, ii., 215 + +Avenue, Northumberland, ii., 215 + +"Axe" Inn, Aldermanbury, ii., 131 + +Axe Yard, Westminster, ii., 54 + + +Bacon, Sir Francis, i., 101 + +Bacon's Inn, i., 174 + +Bailey, Old, i., 25; ii., 212 + +Bakers' Company, i., 201 + +Bank of England, ii., 217 + +Bankside, ii., 45 + +"Banqueting Hall," Tower, i., 35 + +Banqueting House, Whitehall, ii., 14 + +Banquets, City, i., 188 + +Barbers', or Barber Surgeons' Company i., 201 + +Barbican, ii., 212 + +---- destroyed, i., 53 + +Barges of City Companies, i., 195 + +Barnard's Inn, i., 168 + +Barry, Sir Charles, ii., 2 + +Bars, London, ii., 52 + +Bartholomew Fair, ii., 220 + +---- the Great, St., Smithfield, i., 66 + +Basilica, Roman, i., 7 + +Bath Club, ii., 110 + +---- Roman, i., 7 + +"Batson's" Coffee-house, ii., 137 + +Battle at Crayford, i., 14 + +Baynard Castle, i., 30, 122; ii., 213 + +Bear-baiting, ii., 44, 47 + +Bear Garden, ii., 47 + +Beauchamp, Monument of Sir John, i., 118 + +Beauvale, Nottinghamshire, i., 87 + +"Bedford" Coffee-house, ii., 137, 138 + +Bedford, Earls of, ii., 216 + +"Bell and Crown" Inn, Holborn, ii., 125 + +"Bell" Inn, Warwick Lane, ii., 131 + +Bell Inn, ii., 114 + +Bells of Bow, The, ii., 210 + +Belmie, Richard de, Bishop of London, i., 68 + +Berkeley House, ii., 53 + +Bermondsey Abbey, ii., 46 + +Berwick Bridge and Bribery, i., 101 + +Bethnal Green, ii., 53 + +Billingsgate, i., 8, 126; ii., 21 + +Bishop of London, Mellitus, first, i., 16 + +---- Richard de Belmies, i., 68 + +Bishopsgate, i., 18, 228; ii., 183 + +Bishops of London, seals of, i., 236 + +Bishops' houses, ii., 216 + +Bishopric of London, i., 89 + +Black death, i., 88 + +Blackfriars, ii., 47, 217 + +---- abode of artists, ii., 49 + +---- Bridge, ii., 95 + +---- Glovers in, ii., 49 + +---- playhouse near, ii., 48 + +---- Shakespeare's house in, ii., 50 + +---- Vandyke's studio in, ii., 49 + +Blacksmiths' Company, i., 201 + +Blackwell Hall, i., 183 + +Blake, William, poet, painter, ii., 176 + +Bloody Gate Tower, i., 47, 61 + +"Blossoms" Inn, ii., 131 + +"Blue Boar" Inn, ii., 118 + +"Boar's Head" Inn, ii., 168 + +"Bolt-in-Tun" Inn, Fleet Street, ii., 127 + +Bolton, William, prior of St. Bartholomew, i., 76 + +Bonfires, ii., 41 + +Boodle's Club, ii., 101 + +Borough, The, ii., 166 + +Boswell, ii., 176 + +Bow Bells, ii., 210 + +Bowyers' Company, i., 201 + +Braziers' Company, Armourers' and, i., 200, 201 + +Bread Street, ii., 30 + +---- John Milton born in, ii., 170 + +Brewers' Company, i., 201 + +Bribery and Berwick Bridge, i., 101 + +---- Extraordinary, i., 101 + +Brick building by the Hansa, i., 229 + +Bridewell, ii., 6 + +---- Hospital, ii., 49, 196 + +---- Palace of, ii., 48 + +Bridge, Blackfriars, ii., 95 + +---- Chapel, ii., 88, 90 + +---- Gate, ii., 88, 90 + +---- Old London, i., 6, 10, 125 + +---- of London, ii., 21, 24, 28 + +---- St. Thomas of the, ii., 24 + +---- Southwark, ii., 82, 97 + +---- Waterloo, ii., 97 + +---- Westminster, ii., 94 + +"Bridge House Estates," ii., 87 + +British Archæological Association, ii., 163 + +---- Association for the Advancement of Science, ii., 158 + +Broad Street, ii., 36 + +Broderers' Company, i., 201 + +Brontë, Charlotte and Anne, ii., 171 + +Brook, Turnmill, i., 149 + +Brooks's Club, ii., 101, 103 + +_Brooks's, Memorials of_, ii., 103 + +Brown, Dr. Haig, i., 104 + +Buckingham Palace, ii., 15 + +Bucklersbury, ii., 30 + +Builder of Tower of London, Gundulf, i., 32, 33 + +---- Westminster Bridge, Labelye, ii., 94 + +Building, Goldsmith, i., 146 + +---- Lamb, i., 147 + +---- operations at the Tower, Henry III., i., 50 + +---- Wren's, i., 144 + +Buildings, Craven, ii., 216 + +---- Harcourt, i., 146 + +---- Johnson's, i., 146 + +---- Mitre Court, i., 147 + +"Bull and Mouth" Inn, St. Martin's-le-Grand, ii., 129 + +Bull-Baiting, ii., 46 + +"Bull" Inn, ii., 119 + +---- in Bishopsgate Street, ii., 121 + +Burbage, James, ii., 45 + +Burleigh Street, ii., 215 + +Burlington House, ii., 53 + +Butler, Samuel, ii., 179 + +Button's Coffee-house, ii., 99 + +Byron, Lord, ii., 180 + + +Camden's description of St. Paul's Cathedral, ii., 33 + +Candlewick Street, ii., 213 + +Cannon Street, i., 116 + +Canterbury, William de Corbeil, Archbishop of, i., 68 + +Capital of Kings of Essex, i., 12 + +Cardinal Wolsey, ii., 13 + +---- Wolsey's Palace, i., 116 + +Carlton Club, ii., 108 + +Carpenters' Company, i., 200, 202 + +Carthusian house, first, i., 87 + +---- Order, i., 86 + +Carved woodwork in City Churches, ii., 207 + +Cassius, Dion, i., 3 + +Castle, Baynard, i., 30, 122; ii., 213 + +Castles of earth and timber, Early, i., 49 + +Cathedral, St. Paul's, i., 16, 24 + +"Catherine Wheel" Inn, ii., 123 + +Cedd, St., i., 16 + +Celtic London, i., 1-5 + +---- site of, i., 2 + +Chair in Fishmongers' Hall, ii., 92 + +Chancery, difference between the Inns of Court and, i., 161 + +---- Holborn and the Inns of Court and, i., 149, 177 + +---- Inns of, i., 167 + +---- Lane, i., 133, 153 + +Change, Old, ii., 32 + +Chantry Chapel of St. Bartholomew, built by de Walden, i., 72 + +Chapel, Bridge, ii., 88, 90 + +---- Guildhall, i., 182 + +---- London Bridge, ii., 24 + +---- of St. John, i., 36 + +---- of St. Peter and Vincula, i., 42, 49, 57 + +---- Pardon Churchyard and, i., 88 + +---- Royal, at St. James's Palace, ii., 12 + +---- Savoy, ii., 4 + +"Chapter" Coffee-house, ii., 137, 139 + +Charing Cross, the "Rummer" in, ii., 179 + +---- "Three Tuns" at, ii., 71 + +Charles I. a prisoner in St. James's Palace, ii., 9 + +---- his execution, ii., 10 + +Charles II. and the Chaplains' dinner, anecdote of, ii., 62 + +---- Evelyn's description of Restoration of, ii., 55 + +Charles the Martyr, ii., 10 + +Charnel-house, St. Bartholomew, i., 78 + +Charter of William I., i., 22 + +Charterhouse, i., 86 + +---- alterations in sixteenth century, i., 97 + +---- ejection of schoolmaster, i., 103 + +---- fifteenth century plan of, i., 94 + +---- Hospital, i., 98 + +---- John Houghton, Prior of, i., 91 + +---- Monastery, destruction of, i., 93 + +---- Palace, i., 94 + +---- Refectory, i., 94 + +---- reforms of Archdeacon Hale, i., 103 + +---- School, i., 102 + +---- ---- moved to Godalming, i., 104 + +Chaucer, i., 124 + +---- marriage of, ii., 4 + +Cheapside, i., 126; ii., 29, 30 + +---- St. Mary-le-Bow, ii., 210 + +"Cheshire Cheese," ii., 173 + +Cheshire Cheese Club, ii., 99 + +Christchurch, ii., 39 + +Christ Church, Spitalfields, ii., 207 + +Christ's Hospital, ii., 35, 194, 196 + +---- ---- pictures at, ii., 200 + +---- ---- removed to Horsham, ii., 203 + +---- ---- Samuel Pepys and, ii., 198 + +_Chronicle of the Grey Friars of London_, i., 109 + +Church, All Hallows the More, i., 230 + +---- consecrated by Heraclius, Temple, i., 133 + +---- desecration of Temple, i., 145 + +---- effigies in Temple, i., 136 + +---- Life of the City, i., 127 + +---- Organ, Temple, i., 145 + +---- St. Andrew in Holborn, i., 164 + +---- St. Andrew in the Wardrobe, ii., 50 + +---- St. Bartholomew the Great, former neglected condition of, i., 66 + +---- St. Bride, ii., 6 + +---- St. Buttolph, ii., 38 + +---- St. Helen, ii., 184 + +---- St. Leonard's, ii., 42 + +---- St. Mary le Bow, i., 24 + +---- St. Michael-le-Querne, ii., 32 + +Churches, carved woodwork in City, ii., 207 + +---- City, ii., 203 + +---- destroyed, Wren's, ii., 206 + +---- in London, number of, ii., 23 + +---- Plays in, i., 129 + +Churchyard and Chapel, Pardon, i., 88 + +Citizens, liveries of, i., 192 + +---- Middlesex granted to the, i., 23 + +City and See of London, Arms of the, i., 233 + +---- banquets, i., 188 + +---- Churches, carved woodwork in, ii., 207 + +---- ---- ii., 203 + +---- Church life of the, i., 127 + +---- Companies, i., 191 + +---- ---- barges of the, i., 195 + +---- ---- Charity and Religion of, i., 195 + +---- ---- Patron Saints of, i., 196 + +---- ---- promotion of trade by, i., 196 + +---- Customs of the, i., 187 + +---- Feasts, i., 192 + +---- Freedom of the, i., 185 + +---- Gates of, i., 11 + +---- Heart of the, ii., 217 + +---- of palaces, ii., 215 + +Civil War troubles, i., 102 + +Clare Market, ii., 216 + +Clarendon House, ii., 53 + +Clement's Inn, i., 175 + +Clerkenwell, i., 129, 140 + +Clerks' Company, Parish, i., 129 + +Cleveland Row, Theodore Hook in, ii., 181 + +Clifford's Inn, i., 175 + +Clipping or "sweating" coin, i., 109 + +Clockmakers' Company, i., 202 + +Cloister Court, ii., 50 + +Cloth Fair, Smithfield, i., 116 + +Clothworkers' Company, i., 199 + +---- Hall, i., 222 + +Club, Albemarle, ii., 110 + +---- Alfred, ii., 107 + +---- Alpine, ii., 110 + +---- Army and Navy, ii., 102 + +---- Arthur's, ii., 101 + +---- Athenæum, ii., 105 + +---- August Society of the Wanderers, ii., 101 + +---- Authors', ii., 110 + +---- Bath, ii., 110 + +---- Boodle's, ii., 101 + +---- Brooks's, ii., 101, 103 + +---- Button's Coffee-house, ii., 99 + +---- Carlton, ii., 108 + +---- Cheshire Cheese, ii., 99 + +---- Cock, ii., 99 + +---- Cocoa Tree, ii., 101, 180 + +---- Conservative, ii., 109 + +---- Fox, ii., 104 + +---- Garrick, ii., 107 + +---- Guards', ii., 101 + +---- Hurlingham, ii., 110 + +---- Junior United Service, ii., 102 + +---- Kit Cat, ii., 177 + +---- Literary, ii., 180 + +---- Marlborough, ii., 110 + +---- Marylebone Cricket, ii., 110 + +---- National, ii., 109 + +---- Oriental, ii., 106 + +---- "Rag and Famish," ii., 103 + +---- Reform, ii., 108 + +---- "Sublime Society of Beef Steaks," ii., 100 + +---- "Thatched House," ii., 180 + +---- Travellers', ii., 104 + +---- Union, ii., 104 + +---- United Service, ii., 101 + +---- United University, ii., 104 + +---- White's, ii., 101 + +Clubs of London, ii., 99 + +Coach and Coach-Harness Company, i., 202 + +"Coal Hole," ii., 177 + +Cock Club, ii., 99 + +"Cock" Inn, ii., 71 + +Cockpit Theatre, ii., 58, 59 + +Cocoa Tree Club, ii., 101, 180 + +Coffee, first introduction of, ii., 135 + +Coffee-house, Button's, ii., 99 + +Coffee-houses, Old London, ii., 135 + +---- as lecture rooms, ii., 146 + +---- as public reading-rooms, ii., 143 + +---- Manners and modes in, ii., 148 + +---- Museums at, ii., 146 + +---- Quack medicines sold at, ii., 144 + +---- Sales at, ii., 146 + +Coin, clipping or "sweating," i., 109 + +Coins found in the Thames, i., 10 + +Colchester keep, compared with the keep of the Tower, i., 33 + +Cold Harbour Gate, i., 41 + +Colechurch, Peter of, ii., 85 + +Coleman Street, i., 18 + +Colet, i., 86 + +Collections, Zoological, ii., 63 + +Colony, Danish, ii., 208 + +Commerce, Trade and, ii., 186 + +Common Hall, i., 186 + +"Common Playhouses," ii., 43 + +Companies, Barges of City, i., 195 + +---- Charity and Religion of City, i., 195 + +---- City, i., 191 + +---- Halls of the, i., 217 + +---- Patron Saints of City, i., 196 + +---- Promotion of trade by City, i., 196 + +---- Spoliation of the, i., 214 + +Company, Apothecaries', i., 201 + +---- Armourers' and Braziers', i., 201 + +---- Bakers', i., 201 + +---- Barbers' or Barber Surgeons', i., 201 + +---- Blacksmiths', i., 201 + +---- Bowyers', i., 201 + +---- Brewers', i., 201 + +---- Broderers', i., 201 + +---- Carpenters', i., 200, 202 + +---- Clockmakers', i., 202 + +---- Clockworkers', i., 199 + +---- Coach and Coach Harness, i., 202 + +---- Cooks', i., 202 + +---- Coopers', i., 203 + +---- Cordwainers', i., 203 + +---- Curriers', i., 203 + +---- Cutlers', i., 203 + +---- Distillers', i., 203 + +---- Drapers', i., 198 + +---- Dyers', i., 203 + +---- Fanmakers', i., 204 + +---- Farriers', i., 204 + +---- Feltmakers', i., 204 + +---- Fishmongers', i., 195, 197, 198 + +---- Fletchers', 201, 204 + +---- Founders', i., 204 + +---- Framework Knitters', i., 205 + +---- Fruiterers', i., 205 + +---- Girdlers', i., 205 + +---- Glass-sellers', i., 206 + +---- Glaziers', i., 206 + +---- Glovers', i., 206 + +---- Goldsmiths', i., 195, 197 + +---- Gold and Silver Wyre Drawers', i., 206 + +---- Grocers', i., 197 + +---- Gunmakers', i., 206 + +---- Haberdashers', i., 199 + +---- Horners', i., 207 + +---- Innholders', i., 207 + +---- Ironmongers', i., 199 + +---- Joiners', i., 207 + +---- Leathersellers', i., 200, 207 + +---- Loriners', i., 208 + +---- Masons', i., 208 + +---- Mercers', i., 197 + +---- Merchant Taylors', i., 198 + +---- Musicians', i., 208 + +---- Needlemakers', i., 208 + +---- Painters' or Painter-stainers', i., 208 + +---- Parish Clerks', i., 129 + +---- Pattenmakers', i., 209 + +---- Pewterers', i., 209 + +---- Plaisterers', i., 209 + +---- Playing-card Makers', i., 209 + +---- Plumbers', i., 209 + +---- Poulters', i., 210 + +---- Saddlers', i., 200, 210 + +---- Salters', i., 199 + +---- Scriveners', i., 210 + +---- Shipwrights', i., 211 + +---- Skinners', i., 196, 199 + +---- Spectacle-makers', i., 211 + +---- Stationers', i., 212 + +---- Tallow Chandlers', i., 212 + +---- Tin-plate Workers', i., 212 + +---- Turners' or Wood-potters', i., 212 + +---- Tylers' and Bricklayers', i., 212 + +---- Upholders', i., 212 + +---- Vintners', i., 197, 199 + +---- Wax Chandlers', i., 212 + +---- Weavers', i., 213 + +---- Wheelwrights', i., 213 + +---- Woolmen's, i., 213 + +"Concentric" Castle, i., 40 + +Conduit, ii., 31 + +"Conduit, The Little," ii., 32 + +Conference, Savoy, ii., 5 + +Congreve, ii., 177 + +Consecration of the Temple Church by Heraclius, i., 133 + +Conservative Club, ii., 109 + +Constable of the Tower, Geoffrey de Mandeville, i., 41 + +---- William Puinctel, i., 45 + +Conversion of Jews, i., 108 + +Cooks' Company, i., 202 + +---- Row, ii., 213 + +Coopers' Company, i., 203 + +Corbeil, William de, Archbishop of Canterbury, i., 68 + +Corbis, Peter--Water engineer, ii., 91 + +Cordwainers' Company, i., 203 + +Cornhill, i., 126; ii., 213 + +---- Gray born in, ii., 171 + +Corporation, religious services of the, i., 183 + +Corpus Christi Day, i., 127 + +Court and Chancery, difference between the Inns of, i., 161 + +---- ---- Holborn and the Inns of, i., 149, 177 + +---- Buildings, Mitre, i., 147 + +---- Cloister, ii., 50 + +---- Hare, i., 145 + +---- Northumberland, i., 154 + +---- of Requests, ii., 2 + +---- Plays in halls of Inns of, i., 143 + +---- Tanfield, i., 146 + +---- Wardrobe, ii., 50 + +Covent Garden, ii., 52, 216 + +---- ---- Literary associations of, ii., 178 + +Cowley, Abraham, ii., 171 + +Cowper, ii., 174 + +Craven Buildings, ii., 216 + +Crayford, Battle at, i., 14 + +Cripplegate, i., 11, 21 + +---- wooden houses, i., 115 + +Croft, Spittle, i., 89 + +Crooked Streets, Narrow and, i., 112 + +Crosby estate at Hanworth-on-Thames, ii., 186 + +---- Hall, i., 123; ii., 37, 182 + +---- Place, i., 115, 122 + +---- Richard, Duke of Gloucester, at, ii., 190 + +---- Sir John, i., 122; ii., 88, 185 + +---- Thomas More at, ii., 190 + +Cross, Demolition of St. Paul's, i., 120 + +---- Eleanor, ii., 31 + +Crossbows, i., 56 + +"Cross Keys" in Bishopsgate Street, ii., 120 + +Cross, Paul's, i., 119; ii., 34 + +"Crown" Coffee-house, ii., 138 + +---- Inn, Holborn, ii., 126 + +"Crowned or Cross Keys" Inn, ii., 117 + +"Crug-baskets," ii., 200 + +Crusaders, their influence on architecture, i., 134 + +Crutched Friars, ii., 217 + +Crypt of St. Ann's Chapel, i., 139 + +Crypts, Guildhall, i., 180 + +Cursitors' Inn, i., 174 + +Custom House, ii., 21 + +Customs of the City, i., 187 + +Cutlers' Company, i., 203 + + +Dance, George, Architect, i., 182 + +Dane, Anlaf the, i., 10 + +Danes destroyed London, i., 13 + +---- massacre of the, ii., 208 + +Danish colony, ii., 208 + +---- invasion, i., 19 + +Davenant, ii., 69 + +Davies, Thomas, the actor, ii., 178 + +Davy's Inn, i., 155, 165, 172 + +Death, Black, i., 88 + +Dekker, ii., 168 + +Demolition of Paul's Cross, i., 120 + +Description of Restoration of Charles II., Evelyn's, ii., 55 + +Desecration of Temple Church, i., 145 + +Destruction of Charterhouse monastery, i., 93 + +---- of Monuments, ii., 36 + +---- of Wren's churches, ii., 206 + +"Devil" Inn, ii., 173 + +Devonshire House, ii., 53 + +Dickens' days in Hungerford Stairs, ii., 179 + +Difference between Inns of Court and Inns of Chancery, i., 161 + +"Dine with Duke Humphrey, to," i., 117 + +Dinner, anecdote of Charles II. and the Chaplains', ii., 62 + +Dion Cassius, i., 3 + +Disabilities of Jews, i., 107 + +Distillers' Company, i., 203 + +_Diurnal_, Rugge's, ii., 56 + +Doctors, Heroic, ii., 74 + +"Dog" Inn, ii., 70 + +"Dolphin" Inn, ii., 123 + +Dominicans' monastery in Shoe Lane, i., 150 + +Dorset Gardens Theatre, ii., 68 + +---- Thomas Sackville, first Earl of, ii., 171 + +Dowgate, i., 8 + +Downing Street, ii., 54 + +Drapers' Company, i., 198 + +Drayton, Michael, ii., 171 + +Dress of apprentices, i., 124 + +Drury Lane Theatre, ii., 68 + +Dryden, ii., 178 + +"Duke Humphrey, to dine with," i., 117 + +Duke of Albemarle, Monk, ii., 75 + +---- of Gloucester, at Crosby Hall, Richard, ii., 190 + +Duke's House Theatre, ii., 67 + +---- Place, ii., 40 + +Dyers' Company, i., 203 + + +Earl of Warwick, Inn of, in Warwick Lane, i., 123 + +Earls of Bedford, ii., 216 + +Early castles of earth and timber, i., 49 + +---- Times, London in, i., 1-26 + +Earth and timber, early castles of, i., 49 + +Eastcheap, i., 126 + +---- and Westcheap, markets of, ii., 213 + +East Smithfield, Edmund Spenser born in, ii., 171 + +Effigies in Temple Church, i., 136 + +Ejection of Charterhouse Schoolmaster, i., 103 + +Eleanor Cross, ii., 31 + +Elizabeth, Industries encouraged by, ii., 49 + +Elizabethan London, ii., 21 + +England, Bank of, ii., 217 + +Enlargement of the Tower by Richard I., i., 44 + +Erkenwald, Bishop of London, i., 17 + +Ermin Street, i., 7 + +Escape from the Tower of Flambard, Bishop of Durham, i., 39 + +Essex, capital of the Kings of, i., 12 + +---- Street, ii., 215 + +"Estates, Bridge House," ii., 87 + +Ethnological Society, ii., 161 + +Etiquette in Hyde Park, ii., 67 + +Etymology of London, i., 2 + +Eve, Midsummer, ii., 40 + +Evelyn, John, ii., 54 + +Evelyn's description of Restoration of Charles II., ii., 55 + +Exchange, Old, ii., 214 + +---- Royal, ii., 28, 217, 218 + +Execution of Charles I., ii., 10 + +Expulsion of Jews, i., 110 + +Extraordinary bribery, i., 101 + + +Fair, Bartholomew, ii., 220 + +---- Smithfield Cloth, i., 116 + +Fanmakers' Company, i., 204 + +Farriers' Company, i., 204 + +Father Gerard, prisoner in Tower, i., 63 + +Feasts, City, i., 192 + +Feltmakers' Company, i., 204 + +Fenchurch Street, ii., 214 + +Ferries, Thames, ii., 23 + +Fields, Goodman's, ii., 38 + +Finsbury, ii., 43 + +Fire, Great, i., 179, 215; ii., 73, 76 + +---- London rebuilt after Great, ii., 80 + +Fires at the Temple, i., 144 + +---- Frequency of, i., 125 + +First Bishop of London, Mellitus, i., 16 + +---- Carthusian house, i., 87 + +---- Introduction of Coffee, ii., 135 + +---- Prisoners sent to the Tower, i., 50 + +Fishmongers' Company, i., 195, 197, 198 + +---- Hall, i., 218 + +---- ---- chairs in, ii., 92 + +FitzStephen's _Description of London_, i., 38 + +Flambard, Bishop of Durham, escape from the Tower of, i., 39 + +Fleet, Liberty of the, ii., 222 + +---- Prison, ii., 222 + +---- River, i., 149 + +Fletcher, ii., 168 + +Fletchers' Company, i., 201, 204 + +Flogging of apprentices, i., 124 + +Floods at Whitehall, ii., 57 + +Florence, Friscobaldi of, ii., 187 + +Fludyer Street, ii., 54 + +Folkmote, i., 23 + +Ford across Thames, i., 4 + +"Foreigners," i., 123 + +Foreigners in London, ii., 26 + +Former neglected condition of St. Bartholomew's Church, i., 66 + +Founder of Lincoln's Inn, Henry de Lacy, i., 150 + +Founders' Company, i., 204 + +"Four Swans" Inn in Bishopsgate Street, ii., 121, 122 + +Fox Club, ii., 104 + +Framework Knitters' Company, i., 205 + +France, Petty, ii., 28 + +Franklin, Benjamin, i., 83 + +Freedom of London, i., 152 + +---- of the City, i., 185 + +Frequency of fires, i., 125 + +Friars, Augustine, ii., 36 + +---- Austin, ii., 27, 217 + +---- Black, ii., 217 + +---- Crutched, ii., 217 + +_Friars of London, Chronicle of the Grey_, i., 109 + +Friscobaldi of Florence, ii., 187 + +Fruiterers' Company, i., 205 + +Furnival's Inn, i., 167 + + +Galleried Inns, ii., 116 + +Game of Mall, ii., 64 + +"Game of Swans," i., 204 + +Garden, Bear, ii., 47 + +---- Covent, ii., 52, 216 + +---- Old Spring, ii., 58 + +---- Stairs, Paris, ii., 44 + +---- Temple, i., 142 + +"Garraway's" Coffee-house, ii., 137 + +Garrick Club, ii., 107 + +Gate, Bridge, ii., 88, 90 + +---- Traitors', ii., 24, 90 + +Gates of City, i., 11 + +Gaunt at Savoy Palace, John of, ii., 3 + +Geographical Society, Royal, ii., 160 + +Geological Society, ii., 155 + +"George" Inn, ii., 117, 166 + +Gerard prisoner in Tower, Father, i., 63 + +"Gerard's Hall" Inn, ii., 132 + +German Hanse Merchants, ii., 187 + +Gibbons's Statue of James II., Grinling, ii., 60 + +_Gilda Teutonicorum_, ii., 27 + +Girdlers' Company, i., 205 + +Glasshouse Yard, ii., 49 + +Glass-making, ii., 49 + +Glass-sellers' Company, i., 206 + +Glaziers' Company, i., 206 + +Globe Theatre, ii., 45 + +Glovers' Company, i., 206 + +Glovers in Blackfriars, i., 206 + +Godalming, Charterhouse School moved to, i., 104 + +Gog and Magog, i., 180 + +Gold and Silver Wyre Drawers' Company, i., 206 + +Goldsmith Building, i., 146 + +---- Oliver, ii., 172, 176 + +Goldsmiths' Company, i., 195, 197 + +---- Hall, i., 219 + +---- Row, ii., 32 + +Goodman's Fields, ii., 38 + +Gordon Riots, ii., 221 + +"Governance of London, the," i., 15 + +"Grand Tour, the," ii., 66 + +Grasse Church, ii., 214 + +Gray born in Cornhill, ii., 171 + +Gray's Inn, i., 161, 162 + +Great Fire, i., 121, 179, 215; ii., 73, 76 + +---- ---- a blessing, i., 115 + +---- ---- London rebuilt after, ii., 80 + +---- Plague, ii., 73 + +---- Tower Hill, scaffold on, i., 64 + +"Grecian," ii., 200 + +---- Coffee-house, ii., 137 + +"Green Dragon" Inn, in Bishopsgate Street, ii., 121, 122 + +Greenwich, Palace at, ii., 25 + +Gresham, residence of Sir Thomas, ii., 37 + +---- Sir Thomas, ii., 219 + +_Grey Friars of London, Chronicle of the_, i., 109 + +Grey Friars' monastery, ii., 195 + +---- Reginald de, i., 161 + +Griffin, prisoner in Tower keep, i., 55 + +Grocers' Company, i., 197 + +---- Hall, i., 179, 218 + +Guards' Club, ii., 101 + +Guild, i., 22 + +Guilda Aula Teutonicorum, i., 227 + +Guildhall, The, i., 178, 190; ii., 31 + +---- Chapel, i., 182 + +---- Crypts, i., 180 + +---- Historic scenes in the, i., 187 + +---- Library, i., 183 + +---- "Little Ease" at the, i., 186 + +---- of the Steel-yard, i., 230 + +---- Portraits at the, i., 184 + +---- Windows in the, i., 189 + +_Gull's Horne-Book, The_, i., 118 + +Gundulf, architect of Tower, i., 32, 33 + +Gunmakers' Company, i., 206 + +Gunpowder manufactured in Tower, i., 60 + +Guy Fawkes, prison of, i., 35 + +Gwynne's house, Nell, ii., 102 + + +Haberdashers' Company, i., 199 + +---- Hall, i., 221 + +Hale, Reforms of Archdeacon, i., 103 + +Half-timbered houses, i., 113 + +Hall, Crosby, a prison for Royalists, ii., 191 + +---- Blackwell, i., 183 + +---- Chair in Fishmongers', ii., 92 + +---- Clothworkers', i., 222 + +---- Common, i., 186 + +---- Crosby, i., 123; ii., 37, 182 + +---- Fishmongers', i., 218 + +---- Goldsmiths', i., 219 + +---- Grocers', i., 179, 218 + +---- Haberdashers', i., 221 + +---- Inner Temple, i., 139 + +---- Ironmongers', i., 222 + +---- Mercers', i., 218 + +---- Merchant Taylors', i., 179, 219 + +---- Middle Temple, i., 143 + +---- Richard, Duke of Gloucester, at Crosby, ii., 190 + +---- Salters', i., 221 + +---- Skinners', i., 221 + +---- Thomas More at Crosby, ii., 190 + +---- Vintners', i., 222 + +---- Westminster, ii., 2 + +Halls of Inns of Court, Plays in, i., 143 + +---- of the Companies, i., 217 + +Hamburg, i., 226 + +Hanged, Three hundred Jews, i., 109 + +Hansa, i., 225 + +---- brick building by the, i., 229 + +Hanseatic League, i., 224 + +Hanse Merchants, German, ii., 27, 187 + +Hanworth-on-Thames, Crosby Estate at, ii., 186 + +Harcourt Buildings, i., 146 + +Hare Court, i., 145 + +Haymarket, ii., 53 + +"Head, The Monk's," ii., 58 + +Heads on Bridge Gate, ii., 90 + +Heart of the City, ii., 217 + +Henry III.'s building operations at the Tower, i., 50 + +---- VIII.'s buildings, i., 61 + +Henslowe, Philip, ii., 44 + +Heraclius, Temple Church consecrated by, i., 133 + +Herber, the, i., 122 + +Herfleets' Inn, i., 174 + +Hermitage in the Tower, i., 55 + +Heroic Doctors, ii., 74 + +Herrick, ii., 169 + +Hill, St. Andrew's, ii., 50 + +Hinton, Somersetshire, i., 87 + +Historic Scenes in the Guildhall, i., 187 + +"Hobson's Choice," ii., 121 + +Holborn and the Inns of Court and Chancery, i., 149-177 + +---- Church of St. Andrew in, i., 164 + +---- Inns, ii., 124 + +---- Old Temple, in, i., 153 + +---- Origin of name, i., 149 + +---- Viaduct, i., 149 + +Holeburn, Manor of, i., 150 + +Holy Trinity, Priory of, ii., 39 + +Holywell, ii., 42 + +Hook, Theodore, in Cleveland Row, ii., 181 + +_Horne-Book, The Gull's_, i., 118 + +Horners' Company, i., 207 + +Horse Races at Smithfield, i., 132 + +Horsham, Christ's Hospital removed to, ii., 203 + +Hospital, Bridewell, ii., 49, 196 + +---- Charterhouse, i., 98 + +---- Christ's, ii., 35, 194, 196 + +---- ---- removed to Horsham, ii., 203 + +---- for lepers, ii., 7 + +---- Pictures at Christ's, ii., 200 + +---- St. Bartholomew's, ii., 35, 196 + +---- St. Thomas's, ii., 196 + +---- Samuel Pepys and Christ's, ii., 198 + +Houghton, John, Prior of Charterhouse in 1531, i., 91 + +Houndsditch, ii., 39 + +House, Arundel, ii., 216 + +---- Banqueting, Whitehall, ii., 14 + +---- Berkeley, ii., 53 + +---- Burlington, ii., 53 + +---- Clarendon, ii., 53 + +---- Custom, ii., 21 + +---- Devonshire, ii., 53 + +"House Estates, Bridge," ii., 87 + +---- First Carthusian, i., 87 + +---- Howard, i., 98 + +---- in Blackfriars, Shakespeare's, ii., 50 + +---- Marlborough, ii., 12 + +---- Marquis of Winchester's, ii., 36 + +---- Nell Gwynne's, ii., 102 + +---- "Nonesuch," ii., 24 + +---- Salisbury, ii., 216 + +---- Sessions, without Newgate, i., 164 + +---- Southampton, i., 154 + +---- twelfth century, i., 112 + +---- Winchester, ii., 46 + +---- York, ii., 13 + +Houses, Anglo-Saxon, i., 114 + +---- and shops on old London Bridge, i., 112 + +---- Artizans', i., 125 + +---- Bishops', ii., 216 + +---- half-timbered, i., 113 + +---- merchants', i., 123 + +---- near Temple, wooden, i., 116 + +---- of nobility, i., 122 + +---- wooden, Cripplegate, i., 115 + +"Humphrey, to dine with Duke," i., 117 + +Hungerford Stairs, Dickens' days in, ii., 179 + +Hunting, i., 132 + +Hurlingham Club, ii., 110 + +Hurriers, i., 199 + +Hyde Park, ii., 66, 67 + + +Imprisoned in Tower, Jews, i., 58 + +Imprisonment of Knights Templars, i., 59 + +Industries encouraged by Queen Elizabeth, ii., 49 + +Influence on Architecture, Crusaders', i., 134 + +Inner Temple, i., 141 + +---- and Middle Temples, i., 161 + +---- Temple Hall, i., 139 + +Inn, Henry de Lacy, founder of Lincoln's, i., 150 + +---- Bacon's i., 174 + +---- Barnard's, i., 168 + +---- Clement's, i., 175 + +---- Clifford's, i., 175 + +---- Cursitors', i., 174 + +---- Davy's, i., 155, 165, 172 + +---- Earl of Warwick, in Warwick Lane, i., 123 + +---- Furnival's, i., 167 + +---- Gray's, i., 161, 162 + +---- Herfleet's, i., 174 + +---- Kidderminster, i., 174 + +---- Lincoln's, i., 155, 157, 160, 166; ii., 42 + +---- Lyon's, i., 167, 176 + +---- New, i., 173 + +---- Scrope's, i., 176 + +---- Six Clerks, i., 174 + +---- Staple, i., 116, 153, 160, 170, 171 + +Innholders' Company, i., 207 + +Inns of Chancery, i., 167 + +---- of Court and Inns of Chancery, difference between, i., 161 + +---- ---- Plays in halls of, i., 143 + +---- ---- and Chancery, Holborn and the, i., 149, 177 + +---- at Southwark, ii., 114 + +---- and Taverns, old, ii., 46, 70, 113 + +---- Angel, Wych Street, ii., 131 + +---- Axe, Aldermanbury, ii., 131 + +---- Bell, Warwick Lane, ii., 131 + +---- Bell and Crown, Holborn, ii., 125 + +---- Belle, ii., 114 + +---- Blossoms, ii., 131 + +---- Blue Boar, ii., 118 + +---- Boars' Head, ii., 168 + +---- Bolt-in-Tun, ii., 127 + +---- Bull, ii., 119 + +---- ---- Bishopsgate Street, ii., 121 + +---- ---- and Mouth, ii., 129 + +---- Catherine Wheel, ii., 123 + +---- "Cheshire Cheese," ii., 173 + +---- Cross Keys, Bishopsgate Street, ii., 120 + +---- Crown, Holborn, ii., 126 + +---- Crowned or Cross Keys, ii., 117 + +---- "Devil," ii., 173 + +---- Dolphin, ii., 123 + +---- Four Swans, Bishopsgate Street, ii., 121, 122 + +---- Galleried, ii., 116 + +---- George, ii., 117, 166 + +---- Gerard's Hall, ii., 132 + +---- Green Dragon, Bishopsgate Street, ii., 121, 122 + +---- Holborn, ii., 124 + +---- in King Street, Westminster, ii., 70 + +---- King's Head, ii., 116 + +---- "Mitre," ii., 173 + +---- Nag's Head, Whitcomb Street, ii., 132 + +---- Oxford Arms, ii., 130 + +---- Queen's Head, ii., 116, 117 + +---- St. George's, ii., 117 + +---- Saracen's Head, ii., 119, 123 + +---- Spread Eagle, ii., 120 + +---- Swan with Two Necks, ii., 133 + +---- Tabard, ii., 114, 121, 166 + +---- Three Nuns, ii., 118 + +---- "Two Swan," ii., 122 + +---- White Hart, ii., 115, 123 + +---- White Horse, ii., 127 + +Insanitary condition of Old London, i., 115 + +Installation of the Lord Mayor, i., 186 + +Institute, Archæological, ii., 164 + +---- Anthropological, ii., 163 + +Introduction of Coffee, first, ii., 135 + +Invasion, Danish, i., 19 + +Ireland Yard, ii., 50 + +Ironmongers' Company, i., 199 + +---- Hall, i., 222 + +Islington, ii., 53 + + +Jacobite Coffee-houses, ii., 140 + +James I. and the Temple, i., 144 + +---- II., Grinling Gibbons's statue of, ii., 60 + +Jeffreys, Judge, and Temple Church organ, i., 145 + +Jewry Lane, Poor, i., 108 + +---- Leicester, i., 108 + +---- Old, i., 108 + +---- Street, i., 108 + +Jews, ii., 215 + +---- Conversion of, i., 108 + +---- disabilities of, i., 107 + +---- expulsion of, i., 110 + +---- Imprisoned in Tower, i., 58 + +---- in London, i., 106 + +---- Money-lending by, i., 107 + +---- plundered, i., 122 + +---- prejudice against, i., 109 + +---- three hundred hanged, i., 109 + +Johnson, Dr., in Fleet Street, ii., 172 + +Johnson's Buildings, i., 146 + +Joiners' Company, i., 207 + +Jomsborg, i., 225 + +Jones, Inigo, ii., 14, 52 + +Jonson, Ben, ii., 168 + +Jousts at Smithfield, i., 130 + +Junior United Service Club, ii., 102 + + +Keep of Tower of London compared with Colchester keep, i., 33 + +Kensington Palace, ii., 16 + +Kidderminster Inn, i., 174 + +Killigrew, ii., 69 + +King Street, Westminster, Inns in, ii., 70 + +King's Bench Walk, i., 144 + +"King's Head" Inn, ii., 116 + +"King's House," i., 61; ii., 67 + +Kings of Essex, capital of, i., 12 + +Kit Cat Club, ii., 177 + +Knights Hospitallers, i., 140 + +---- Templars, imprisonment, i., 59 + +Kontors of the League, i., 226 + + +La Belle Sauvage Yard, ii., 127 + +Labelye, builder of Westminster Bridge, ii., 94 + +Lacy, Henry de, founder of Lincoln's Inn, i., 150 + +Lady Chapel and printing shop, i., 82, 83 + +Lamb Building, i., 147 + +---- Charles, ii., 175 + +Lambeth Palace, ii., 17 + +Lane, Ave Mary, ii., 215 + +---- Chancery, i., 133, 153 + +---- Inn of Earl of Warwick in Warwick, i., 123 + +---- Mincing, i., 8; ii., 27 + +---- "Poor Jewry," i., 108 + +---- Sermon, ii., 214 + +---- Shoe, i., 150 + +---- Sopars', ii., 30 + +Lawyers in the Temple, settlement of, i., 140 + +Leadenhall, ii., 27, 40, 214 + +League, The Hanseatic, i., 224 + +---- Kontors of the, i., 226 + +Learned Societies of London, ii., 150 + +Leather-sellers' Company, i., 200, 207 + +Lecture rooms, Coffee-houses as, ii., 146 + +Leicester Jewry, i., 108 + +---- Square, ii., 216 + +Lepers, Hospital for, ii., 7 + +_Liber Albus_, i., 122 + +Liberty of the Fleet, ii., 222 + +Library, Guildhall, i., 183 + +Life of the City, Church, i., 127 + +---- Street, i., 127 + +Lincoln's Inn, i., 155, 157, 160, 161; ii., 42 + +---- Henry de Lacy, founder of, i., 150 + +Literary associations of Covent Garden, ii., 178 + +---- ---- Pall Mall, ii., 179 + +---- ---- St. James' Street, ii., 180 + +---- ---- The Temple, i., 146 + +---- Club, ii., 180 + +---- Shrines of Old London, ii., 166 + +Literature, Royal Society of, ii., 156 + +"Little Conduit, The," ii., 32 + +"Little Ease," i., 34, 58 + +---- ---- at the Guildhall, i., 186 + +Liveries of Citizens, i., 192 + +Lives of the People, i., 121 + +"Lloyd's" Coffee-house, ii., 139 + +Locke, John, ii., 171 + +"Lock, Rock," ii., 88 + +Lombard Street, ii., 27, 214 + +---- ---- Pope born in, ii., 171 + +Lombardy merchants, ii., 26 + +_London's Armory_, i., 240 + +Lord Mayor, Installation of the, i., 186 + +Loriners' Company, i., 208 + +Lothbury, ii., 214 + +Lovel, Sir Thomas, ii., 42 + +Lübeck, i., 226 + +Ludgate, i., 11, 24; ii., 213 + +Lydgate's _London's Lickpenny_, i., 125 + +_Lynn, dun_, i., 2 + +Lyon's Inn, i., 167, 176 + + +Macaulay's picture of London, ii., 55 + +Mall, the game of, ii., 63, 64 + +Malmesbury, Abbot of, i., 159 + +Mandeville, Geoffrey de, Constable of the Tower, i., 41 + +Manners and modes in Coffee-houses, ii., 148 + +Manny, Sir Walter de, i., 89 + +Manor of Holeburn, i., 150 + +Mansion, Sir Paul Pindar's, ii., 123 + +Manufacture of _gunpowder_ in Tower, i., 60 + +Mariners, St. Clement patron saint of, ii., 209 + +Market, Clare, ii., 216 + +Markets of Eastcheap and Westcheap, ii., 213 + +Marlborough Club, ii., 110 + +---- House, ii., 12 + +Marriage of Chaucer, ii., 4 + +Marylebone Cricket Club, ii., 110 + +Masons' Company, i., 208 + +Masques, i., 144 + +Massacre of the Danes, ii., 208 + +Massinger, Philip, ii., 168, 169 + +Mathematical School, Royal, ii., 198 + +Mayor, Installation of the Lord, i., 186 + +May-poles, i., 132 + +Meat Market, Shambles or, ii., 35 + +Mediæval London, i., 106 + +Mellitus, first Bishop of London, i., 16 + +_Memorials of Brooks's_, ii., 103 + +Menagerie at the Tower, i., 52 + +Mercers' Company, i., 197 + +---- Hall, i., 218 + +Merchant Taylors' Company, i., 198 + +---- ---- Hall, 1., 179, 219 + +---- ---- School, i., 94, 104 + +Merchants, German Hanse, ii., 187 + +---- of Lombardy, ii., 26 + +---- Hanse, ii., 27 + +Merchants' houses, i., 123 + +Mermaid Tavern, ii., 30, 168 + +Middle Temple, i., 141, 165 + +---- ---- Hall, i., 143 + +---- Temples, Inner and, i., 161 + +Middlesex granted to the citizens, i., 23 + +Midsummer Eve, ii., 40 + +Millianers, i., 199 + +Milton, John, born in Bread Street, ii., 170 + +Mincing Lane, i., 8; ii., 27 + +Minories, ii., 38 + +Mint, Tower, i., 64 + +Mitre Court Buildings, i., 147 + +"Mitre" Inn, ii., 173 + +Mob, Tower surprised by, i., 53 + +Modern London founded after the Restoration, ii., 53 + +Monastery, destruction of Charterhouse, i., 93 + +---- Grey Friars, ii., 195 + +---- in Shoe Lane, Dominicans', i., 150 + +Money-lending by Jews, i., 107 + +Monk, Duke of Albemarle, ii., 75 + +"Monk's Head, The," ii., 58 + +Monks tortured and executed, i.,92 + +Montagu, Lady Mary Wortley, ii., 177 + +Monument of Sir John Beauchamp, i., 118 + +Monuments in the Temple, i., 139 + +---- destruction of, ii., 36 + +Moorgate, i., 25 + +Moorfields, i., 122 + +More, i., 86 + +---- Thomas, at Crosby Hall, ii., 190 + +Mosaic pavements, i., 12 + +Museums at Coffee-houses, ii., 146 + +Musicians' Company, i., 208 + + +"Nag's Head" Inn, Whitcomb Street, ii., 132 + +Name Holborn, Origin of the, i., 149 + +Names of Streets, i., 123 + +Narrow and crooked streets, i., 112 + +---- and unsavoury streets, i., 125 + +---- escape of Richard III., ii., 189 + +National Club, ii., 109 + +Needlemakers' Company, i., 208 + +Newgate, ii., 26 + +---- Sessions House without, i., 164 + +Newington, playhouse at, ii., 44 + +New Inn, i., 173 + +---- Temple, i., 163 + +Nobility, houses of, i., 122 + +"Nonesuch House," ii., 24, 91 + +Norfolk, Duke of, i., 96 + +Norman London, i., 21, 26 + +---- Well, i., 62 + +North, Sir Edward, i., 95 + +Northburgh, Michael de, i., 89 + +Northumberland Avenue, ii., 215 + +---- Court, i., 154 + +Norway, St. Olaf patron saint of, ii., 209 + +Number of Churches in London, ii., 23 + + +Office, Rolls, i., 153 + +Old Bailey, i., 25; ii., 212 + +---- Bridges, ii., 82 + +---- Change, ii., 32 + +---- Exchange, ii., 214 + +---- Inns, ii., 46 + +---- ---- in Westminster, ii., 70, 71 + +---- Jewry, i., 108 + +---- London Bridge, houses and shops on, i., 112 + +---- Prisons, ii., 221 + +---- St. Paul's, i., 116 + +---- Spring Garden, ii., 58 + +---- Temple in Holborn, i., 153 + +---- Theatres, ii., 167 + +---- time punishments, i., 130 + +Order, Carthusian, i., 86 + +Orderic, i., 30, 31 + +Ordinance of the Staple, i., 171 + +Organ, Temple Church, i., 145 + +Oriental Club, ii., 106 + +Origin of the name Holborn, i., 149 + +"Oxford Arms" Inn, ii., 130 + + +Pageant of London, ii., 193 + +---- of the Streets, ii., 211 + +Pageants, i., 192 + +---- on the Thames, i., 194 + +Painters' or Painter-stainers' Company, i., 208 + +Palace, Bridewell, ii., 48 + +---- Buckingham, ii., 15, 16 + +---- Cardinal Wolsey's, i., 116 + +---- Charterhouse, i., 94 + +---- Greenwich, ii., 25 + +---- Lambeth, ii., 17 + +---- St. James's, ii., 7, 61 + +---- Savoy, ii., 3 + +---- Westminster, ii., 1, 2 + +---- Whitefriars, ii., 60 + +---- Whitehall, ii., 9, 11, 13, 56 + +Palaces, City of, ii., 215 + +---- of London, ii., 1 + +Pall Mall, ii., 63 + +---- ---- Literary Associations of, ii., 179 + +Panton Street, ii., 54 + +"Papye," ii., 37 + +Pardon Churchyard and Chapel, i., 88 + +Paris Garden Stairs, ii., 44 + +Parish Clerks' Company, i., 129 + +Park, Hyde, ii., 66, 67 + +---- St. James's, ii., 63 + +Passage, Subterranean, i., 62 + +Paternoster Row, ii., 215 + +Patron Saint of Norway, St. Olaf, ii., 209 + +---- ---- of Mariners, ii., 209 + +---- Saints of City Companies, i., 196 + +Pattenmakers' Company, i., 209 + +Paul's Cathedral, St., i., 16, 24 + +---- Cross, i., 119; ii., 34 + +---- ---- Demolition of, i., 120 + +"Paul's School," ii., 34 + +Paul's Walk, i., 117; ii., 33 + +Pavements, Mosaic, i., 12 + +Penn, Sir William, ii., 77 + +Penthouse, i., 125 + +People, Lives of the, i., 121 + +Pepys, Samuel, ii., 54 + +---- ---- and Christ's Hospital, ii., 198 + +---- as a dramatic critic, ii., 70 + +---- as a playgoer, ii., 67 + +Pepys's London, ii., 52 + +Peter of Colechurch, ii., 85 + +Petty France, ii., 28 + +Pewterers' Company, i., 209 + +Piccadilly, ii., 53 + +Picture of London, Macaulay's, ii., 55 + +Pictures at Christ's Hospital, ii., 200 + +"Piggin," ii., 200 + +Pike Ponds, ii., 47 + +Pillory, i., 130 + +Pindar's mansion, Sir Paul, ii., 123 + +Place, Duke's, ii., 40 + +Plague, Great, ii., 73 + +Plaisterers' Company, i., 209 + +Plan of Charterhouse, fifteenth century, i., 94 + +Plantation, Ulster, i., 214 + +Playhouse at Newington, ii., 44 + +---- near Blackfriars, ii., 48 + +---- the Rose, ii., 45, 47 + +---- Swan, ii., 47 + +---- Yard, ii., 50 + +"Playhouses, Common," ii., 43, 44 + +Playing-card Makers' Company, i., 209 + +Plays, ii., 43 + +---- in Churches, i., 129 + +---- in Halls of Inns of Court, i., 143 + +---- Religious, i., 129 + +Plowden, Edmund, i., 143, 145 + +Plumbers' Company, i., 209 + +Plundered Jews, i., 122 + +Poet-painter, William Blake, The, ii., 176 + +Pomerium, i., 108 + +Ponds, Pike, ii., 47 + +"Poor Jewry Lane," i., 108 + +Pope born in Lombard Street, ii., 171 + +Port of London, ii., 21 + +Portraits at the Guildhall, i., 184 + +Portreeve, i., 22, 23 + +Portugal Row, Theatre in, ii., 68 + +Pottery, Roman, i., 5 + +Poulters' Company, i., 210 + +Poultry, The, ii., 30, 214 + +"Pound sterling," i., 232 + +Prejudice against Jews, i., 109 + +Princes murdered in the Tower, i., 36 + +Printing-house, Richardson's, ii., 172 + +Printing-shop, Lady Chapel and, i., 82, 83 + +Prior, John Walford, i., 72 + +---- of Charterhouse in 1531, John Houghton, i., 91 + +---- of St. Bartholomew, William Bolton, i., 76 + +Priory of Holy Trinity, ii., 39 + +---- of St. Mary Overie, ii., 86 + +Prison, Abbot of Westminster and Monks in, i., 59 + +---- Fleet, ii., 222 + +---- for Royalists, Crosby a, ii., 191 + +---- of Guy Fawkes, i., 35 + +---- of Ranulph Flambard, Bishop of Durham, i., 39 + +---- of Sir Walter Raleigh, i., 35 + +---- Subterranean, i., 62 + +Prisoner in St. James's Palace, Charles I. a., ii., 9 + +Prisoners in Tower, Scotch, i., 59 + +---- Royal, i., 60 + +---- sent to the Tower, First, i., 50 + +Prisons, Old, ii., 221 + +Proceedings, _quo warranto_, i., 216 + +Projecting storeys of houses, i., 114 + +Promotion of Trade by City Companies, i., 197 + +Puinctel, William, Constable of the Tower, i., 45 + +Punishments, Old-time, i., 130 + +---- School, ii., 202 + +"Purgatory," St. Bartholomew, i., 78 + + +Quack medicines sold at Coffee-houses, ii., 144 + +Queenhithe, ii., 21 + +"Queen's Head" Inn, ii., 116, 117 + +Quintain, i., 132 + +_Quo warranto_ proceedings, i., 216 + + +Races at Smithfield, Horse, i., 132 + +"Rag and Famish," ii., 103 + +Rahere, i., 67 + +Rahere's vision, i., 67 + +"Rainbow" in Fleet Street, ii., 135 + +Raleigh, Prison of Sir Walter, i., 35 + +Ranelagh, Vauxhall and, ii., 222 + +Rawlinson, Daniel, a loyal innkeeper, ii., 71 + +Rebuilt after great fire, London, ii., 80 + +Refectory, Charterhouse, i., 94 + +Reform Club, ii., 108 + +Reforms of Archdeacon Hale, i., 103 + +Relics in the Temple, Treasures and, i., 138 + +Religion, City Companies, their charity and, i., 195 + +Religious plays, i., 129 + +---- services of the Corporation, i., 183 + +Renovations of the Tower, Wren's, i., 35 + +Requests, Court of, ii., 2 + +Residence of Sir Thomas Gresham, ii., 37 + +Restoration of Charles II., Evelyn's description of, ii., 55 + +---- of St. Bartholomew, i., 81, 84 + +---- Modern London founded after the, ii., 53 + +Rich, Sir Richard, i., 78 + +Richard, Duke of Gloucester, at Crosby Hall, ii., 190 + +---- I.'s enlargement of the Tower, i., 44 + +---- III., Narrow escape of, ii., 189 + +Richardson's printing-house, ii., 172 + +"Ridings," i., 124 + +Riots, London, ii., 221 + +"Rock Lock," ii., 88 + +Rolls Office, i., 153 + +Roman basilica, i., 7 + +---- bath, i., 7 + +---- London, i., 6-12 + +---- ---- Bridge, i., 10 + +---- pottery, i., 5 + +---- remains, i., 28 + +---- wall, i., 11 + +Rose playhouse, The, ii., 45, 47 + +Row, Cooks', ii., 213 + +---- Goldsmiths', ii., 32 + +---- Paternoster, ii., 215 + +Royal Asiatic Society, ii., 158 + +---- Chapel, at St. James's Palace, ii., 12 + +---- Exchange, ii., 28, 217, 218 + +---- Geographical Society, ii., 160 + +---- Institution, ii., 154 + +---- Mathematical School, ii., 198 + +---- Prisoners, i., 60 + +---- Society, ii., 72, 150 + +---- Society of Literature, ii., 156 + +Royalists, Crosby a prison for, ii., 191 + +Rugge's _Diurnal_, ii., 56 + +"Rummer" in Charing Cross, The, ii., 179 + +Russell Street, ii., 178 + +Rutland Place, i., 96 + + +Sackville, Thomas, first Earl of Dorset, ii., 171 + +Saddlers' Company, i., 200, 210 + +St. Andrew, Holborn, Church of, i., 164; ii., 207 + +---- in the Wardrobe, Church of, ii., 50 + +---- Undershaft, ii., 37, 204 + +St. Andrew's Hill, ii., 50 + +---- Holborn, ii., 207 + +St. Ann's Chapel, Crypt of, i., 139 + +St. Bartholomew the Great, Smithfield, i., 66 + +---- Restoration of, i., 81, 84 + +St. Bartholomew's Hospital, ii., 35, 196 + +St. Bénezet, ii., 85 + +St. Bride, Church of, ii., 6 + +St. Bruno, i., 86 + +St. Buttolph, Church of, ii., 38 + +St. Catherine Cree, ii., 204 + +St. Cedd, i., 16 + +St. Clement Danes, ii., 208 + +St. Clement, patron saint of mariners, ii., 209 + +St. Dunstan's, Stepney, ii., 204 + +St. Ethelreda's, Ely Place, ii., 204 + +St. George's Inn, i., 171 + +St. Giles', Cripplegate, ii., 204 + +St. Helen, Church of, ii., 41, 184 + +"St. James's," Addison at the, ii., 180 + +---- Coffee-house, ii., 137, 141 + +---- Palace, ii., 7, 61 + +---- Park, ii., 63 + +---- Square, ii., 53 + +---- Street, Literary associations of, ii., 180 + +---- Swift at the, ii., 180 + +St. John, Chapel of, i., 36 + +St. Leonard's Church, ii., 42 + +St. Margaret's, Lothbury, Screen in, i., 230 + +St. Martin's le Grand, ii., 36 + +St. Mary, Aldermanbury, ii., 31 + +---- Axe, ii., 37 + +St. Mary-le-Bow, Church of, i., 24 + +---- Cheapside, ii., 210 + +St. Mary Overie, ii., 46 + +---- ---- Priory, ii., 86 + +---- Woolchurch, ii., 214 + +St. Michael-le-Querne, Church of, ii., 32 + +St. Olaf, patron saint of Norway, ii., 209 + +St. Olave's, Hart Street, ii., 205 + +St. Paul's Cathedral, i., 16, 24; ii., 23 + +---- Camden's description of, ii., 33 + +---- Coffee-house, ii., 139 + +---- Old, i., 116 + +St. Peter ad Vincula, Chapel of, i., 42, 49, 57 + +St. Sepulchre's, near Newgate, ii., 205 + +St. Thomas of the Bridge, ii., 24 + +St. Thomas's Hospital, ii., 196 + +Saints of City Companies, Patron, i., 196 + +"Saladin Tithe," i., 134 + +Sales at Coffee-houses, ii., 146 + +Salisbury House, ii., 216 + +Salters' Company, i., 199 + +---- Hall, i., 221 + +"Saracen's Head" Inn, ii., 119 + +---- ---- on Snow Hill, ii., 123 + +Savoy Chapel, ii., 4 + +---- Conference, ii., 5 + +---- Palace of the, ii., 3 + +---- ---- pillaged by Wat Tyler, ii., 4 + +Saxon London, i., 12-21 + +Scaffold on Great Tower Hill, i., 64 + +Scenes in the Guildhall, Historic, i., 187 + +School, Charterhouse, i., 102 + +---- ---- moved to Godalming, i., 104 + +---- Merchant Taylors', i., 94, 104 + +---- Paul's, ii., 34 + +---- Punishments, ii., 202 + +---- Royal Mathematical, ii., 198 + +Schoolmaster, Ejection of Charterhouse, i., 103 + +Science, British Association for the Advancement of, ii., 158 + +Scotch prisoners in Tower, i., 59 + +Screen in St. Margaret's, Lothbury, i., 230 + +Scriveners' Company, i., 210 + +Scrope's Inn, i., 176 + +Sculpture in the Temple, i., 135 + +Seal of Bishops of London, i., 236 + +Sebert, i., 16 + +See of London, Arms of the City and, i., 233 + +Sergeants-at-Law, i., 142 + +Sermon Lane, ii., 214 + +Sessions House, without Newgate, i., 164 + +Settlement at Westminster, Roman, i., 11 + +---- of lawyers in the Temple, i., 140 + +Shakespeare, ii., 45 + +---- in London, ii., 26, 37 + +Shakespeare's house in Blackfriars, ii., 50 + +Shambles, or meat market, ii., 35 + +Shipwrights' Company, i., 211 + +Shirley, James, ii., 171 + +Shoe Lane, i., 150 + +Shops on Old London Bridge, houses and, i., 112 + +Shoreditch, ii., 42 + +Site of Celtic London, i., 2 + +_Six Clerks Inn_, i., 174 + +Skating on the Thames, i., 131 + +Skinners' Company, i., 196, 199 + +---- Hall, i., 221 + +Smithfield, Cloth Fair, i., 116 + +---- horse races at, i., 132 + +---- jousts at, i., 130 + +Societies of London, Learned, ii., 150 + +Society, Anthropological, ii., 162 + +---- Ethnological, ii., 161 + +---- Geological, ii., 155 + +---- of Antiquaries, ii., 150, 153 + +---- of Arts, Royal, ii., 154 + +---- of Literature, Royal, ii., 156 + +---- Royal, ii., 150 + +---- Royal Asiatic, ii., 156 + +---- Royal Geographical, ii., 160 + +---- Royal Statistical, ii., 160 + +Sopars' Lane, ii., 30 + +Southampton House, i., 154 + +Southwark Bridge, ii., 82, 97 + +---- Inns at, ii., 114 + +Spectacle-makers' Company, i., 211 + +Spencer, Sir John, ii., 190 + +Spenser, Edmund, born in East Smithfield, ii., 171 + +Spittle Croft, i., 89 + +Spoliation of the Companies, i., 214 + +Sports of London youths, i., 131 + +"Spread Eagle" Inn, ii., 120 + +Square, St. James's, ii., 53 + +---- Leicester, ii., 216 + +Stairs, Paris Garden, ii., 44 + +---- Thames, ii., 22 + +Standard, The, ii., 31 + +Staple Inn, i., 116, 153, 160, 170, 171 + +---- Ordinance of the, i., 171 + +Stationers' Company, i., 212 + +Statistical Society, Royal, ii., 160 + +Statue of James II., Grinling Gibbons's, ii., 60 + +Steel-yard, i., 227; ii., 21 + +---- Guildhall of the, i., 230 + +Stepney, ii., 53 + +"Sterling, a pound," i., 232 + +Stone, London, i., 7, 28, 126 + +Stow, i., 8, 11, 13; ii., 41 + +Stow's _Survey_, ii., 25 + +Strand, i., 126 + +Street, Artillery, ii., 212 + +---- Bread, ii., 30 + +---- Broad, ii., 36 + +---- Burleigh, ii., 215 + +---- Candlewick, ii., 213 + +---- Cannon, i., 116 + +---- Coleman, i., 18 + +---- Downing, ii., 54 + +---- Ermin, i., 7 + +---- Essex, ii., 215 + +---- Fenchurch, ii., 214 + +---- Fludyer, ii., 54 + +---- Jewry, i., 108 + +---- Lombard, ii., 27, 214 + +---- Panton, ii., 54 + +---- Tooley, ii., 209 + +---- Watling, i., 6 + +Streets, Life of the, i., 127 + +---- Names of, i., 123 + +---- Narrow and crooked, i., 112 + +---- Narrow and unsavoury, i., 125 + +---- Pageant of the, ii., 211 + +"Sublime Society of Beef Steaks," ii., 100 + +Subterranean passage, i., 62 + +---- prison, i., 62 + +"Sun" Inn, ii., 70 + +Surprised by mob, Tower, i., 53 + +Surrender of London to William I., i., 30 + +_Survey_, Stow's, ii., 25 + +Sutton, Thomas, i., 98 + +"Swans, Game of," i., 204 + +Swan-marking, i., 204 + +Swan playhouse, ii., 47 + +"Swan with Two Necks," Lad Lane, ii., 133 + +"Sweating" coin, Clipping or, i., 109 + +Swift at the "St. James's," ii., 180 + +Sword in the City Arms, i., 235 + + +Tabard Inn, ii., 46, 114, 166 + +"Tabard" Inn in Gracechurch Street, ii., 120, 121 + +Tacitus, i., 6, 7 + +Tallow Chandlers' Company, i., 212 + +Tanfield Court, i., 146 + +Tavern, Mermaid, ii., 30, 168 + +Taverns and Inns, ii., 70, 113 + +Templars, the, i., 139 + +"Temple, Associates of the," i., 136 + +Temple, Authors of the, ii., 174 + +---- Church consecrated by Heraclius, i., 133 + +---- ---- desecration of, i., 145 + +---- ---- effigies in, i., 136 + +---- ---- organ, i., 145 + +---- Fires at the, i., 144 + +---- Garden, i., 142 + +---- Hall, Inner, i., 139 + +---- ---- Middle, i., 143 + +---- in Holborn, Old, i., 153 + +---- Inner, i., 141 + +---- James I. and the, i., 144 + +---- Literary Associations of the, i., 146 + +---- Middle, i., 141, 165 + +---- Monuments in the, i., 139 + +---- New, i., 163 + +---- Settlement of lawyers in the, i., 140 + +---- Sculpture in the, i., 135 + +---- The, i., 133-148 + +---- Treasures and relics in the, i., 138 + +---- Wooden houses near, i., 116 + +Temples, Inner and Middle, i., 161 + +_Teutonicorum, Gilda_, ii., 27 + +Thames, i., 4 + +---- Coins found in the, i., 10 + +---- Ferries, ii., 23 + +---- Ford across, i., 4 + +---- Pageants on the, i., 195 + +---- Skating on the, i., 131 + +---- "Stairs," ii., 22 + +Thames' watermen, ii., 22, 167 + +"Thatched House" Club, ii., 180 + +Theatre, Cockpit, ii., 59 + +---- Dorset Gardens, ii., 68 + +---- Drury Lane, ii., 68 + +---- Duke's House, ii., 67 + +---- Globe, ii., 45 + +---- in Portugal Row, ii., 68 + +---- King's House, ii., 67 + +Theatres, Old, ii., 44, 167 + +Thorney, i., 12 + +Three hundred Jews hanged, i., 109 + +"Three Nuns" Inn, ii., 118 + +---- Tuns" at Charing Cross, ii., 71 + +Tilt Yard, ii., 58 + +Timber, Early Castles of earth and, i., 49 + +Tin-plate Workers' Company, i., 212 + +"Tithe, Saladin," i., 134 + +Tooley Street, ii., 209 + +"Tour, The Grand," ii., 66 + +Tower, Gundulf, architect of, i., 32, 33 + +---- of London, i., 27-65 + +---- keep compared with Colchester keep, i., 33 + +---- Wren's renovations of, i., 35 + +Town of London, a walled, i., 110 + +Trade and commerce, ii., 186 + +---- City Companies; their promotion of, i., 196 + +"Traitors' Gate," i., 51, 65; ii., 24, 90 + +Travellers' Club, ii., 104 + +Treasures and relics in the Temple, i., 138 + +Troubles, Civil War, i., 102 + +Turners' or "Wood-potters'" Company, i., 212 + +Turnmill Brook, i., 149 + +Twelfth century house, i., 112 + +"Two Swan" Inn yard, ii., 122 + +Tyler, Wat, Savoy Palace pillaged by, ii., 4 + +---- Wat, i., 235 + +Tylers' and Bricklayers' Company, i., 212 + + +Ulster Plantation, i., 214 + +Undershaft, St. Andrew, ii., 37 + +Union Club, ii., 104 + +United Service Club, ii., 101 + +---- University Club, ii., 104 + +Unsavoury Streets, Narrow and, i., 125 + +Upholders' Company, i., 212 + + +Vandyke's Studio in Blackfriars, ii., 49 + +Vauxhall, ii., 58 + +---- and Ranelagh, ii., 222 + +Viaduct, Holborn, i., 149 + +Vikings, i., 225 + +Vintners' Company, i., 197, 199 + +---- Hall, i., 222 + +Vintry, ii., 28 + +Vision of Rahere, i., 67 + +Wadlow, Simon, ii., 56 + + +Walbrook, i., 5 + +Walden, Roger de, builds chantry chapel of St. Bartholomew, i., 72 + +Walford, Prior John, i., 72 + +Walk, King's Bench, i., 144 + +---- Paul's, i., 117; ii., 33 + +Walled Town, London a, i., 110 + +Walls, London, ii., 212 + +---- of London, i., 122 + +---- Roman, i., 11 + +Walton, Izaac, ii., 171 + +Walworth, Sir William, i., 235 + +Wardrobe, Church of St. Andrew in the, ii., 50 + +---- Court, ii., 50 + +Warwick Lane, Inn of Earl of Warwick in, i., 123 + +Wash House Court, i., 94 + +Water-engineer, Peter Corbis, ii., 91 + +Waterloo Bridge, ii., 97 + +Watermen, Thames', ii., 22, 167 + +Watling Street, i., 6 + +Wax Chandlers' Company, i., 212 + +Weavers' Company, i., 213 + +Westcheap, ii., 30 + +---- markets of Eastcheap and, ii., 213 + +Westminster, i., 126 + +---- abbot and monks of, in prison, i., 59 + +---- Axe Yard, ii., 54 + +---- Bridge, ii., 94 + +---- Hall, ii., 2 + +---- Old inns in, ii., 70, 71 + +---- Palace of, ii., 1 + +---- Roman settlement at, i., 111 + +Wheelwrights' Company, i., 213 + +"Wherries," ii., 22 + +Whist played at Coffee-houses, ii., 138 + +Whitefriars Palace, ii., 60 + +Whitehall, ii., 57 + +---- Banqueting House, ii., 14 + +---- Floods at, ii., 57 + +---- Palace of, ii., 9, 11, 13, 56, 57 + +"White Hart" Inn, ii., 115, 123 + +"White Horse" Inn, ii., 127 + +White Tower, i., 34 + +"White's" Chocolate-house, ii., 137 + +---- Club, ii., 101 + +Whittington, Sir Richard, i., 178 + +Wild-fowl in St. James's Park, ii., 63 + +William I., Charter of, i., 22 + +---- i., 29 + +---- surrender of London to, i., 30 + +"Will's" Coffee-house in Russell Street, ii., 137, 141 + +Winchester House, ii., 46 + +---- House of Marquis of, ii., 36 + +Windows in the Guildhall, i., 189 + +Witham, Somersetshire, i., 87 + +Wolsey, Cardinal, ii., 13 + +Wolsey's Palace, Cardinal, i., 116 + +Wooden houses near Temple, i., 116 + +---- ---- at Cripplegate, i., 115 + +Woodwork in City Churches, Carved, ii., 207 + +Woolcombers, i., 213 + +Woolmen's Company, i., 213 + +Wren, Sir Christopher, i., 43; ii., 205 + +Wren's building, i., 144 + +---- churches destroyed, ii., 206 + +---- renovations of the Tower, i., 35 + + +Yard, Glasshouse, ii., 49 + +---- Ireland, ii., 50 + +---- Playhouse, ii., 50 + +---- Tilt, ii., 58 + +---- Westminster, Axe, ii., 54 + +York House, ii., 13 + +Youths, Sports of London, i., 131 + + +Zoological collections, ii., 63 + +[Illustration] + + * * * * * + +Bemrose & Sons Limited, Printers, Derby and London. + + * * * * * + + +Selected from the Catalogue of BEMROSE & SONS Ltd. + + +MEMORIALS OF THE COUNTIES OF ENGLAND. + +_Beautifully Illustrated. Demy 8vo, cloth extra, gilt top. Price 15/- +each net._ + + +MEMORIALS OF OLD OXFORDSHIRE. + +Edited by the Rev. P. H. DITCHFIELD, M.A., F.S.A. Dedicated by kind +permission to the Right Hon. the Earl of Jersey, G.C.B., G.C.M.G. + + "This beautiful book contains an exhaustive history of 'the + wondrous Oxford,' to which so many distinguished scholars and + politicians look back with affection. We must refer the reader + to the volume itself ... and only wish that we had space to + quote extracts from its interesting pages."--_Spectator._ + + +MEMORIALS OF OLD DEVONSHIRE. + +Edited by F. J. SNELL, M.A. Dedicated by kind permission to the Right +Hon. Viscount Ebrington. + + "A fascinating volume, which will be prized by thoughtful + Devonians wherever they may be found ... richly illustrated, + some rare engravings being represented."--_North Devon + Journal._ + + +MEMORIALS OF OLD HEREFORDSHIRE. + +Edited by the Rev. COMPTON READE, M.A. Dedicated by kind permission to +Sir John G. Cotterell, Bart. + + "Another of these interesting volumes like the 'Memorials of + Old Devonshire,' which we noted a week or two ago, containing + miscellaneous papers on the history, topography, and families + of the county by competent writers, with photographs and other + illustrations."--_Times._ + + +MEMORIALS OF OLD HERTFORDSHIRE. + +Edited by PERCY CROSS STANDING. Dedicated by kind permission to the +Right Hon. the Earl of Clarendon, G.C.B. + + "The book, which contains some magnificent illustrations, + will be warmly welcomed by all lovers of our county and its + entertaining history."--_West Herts and Watford Observer._ + + "The volume as a whole is an admirable and informing one, and + all Hertfordshire folk should possess it, if only as a partial + antidote to the suburbanism which threatens to overwhelm their + beautiful county."--_Guardian._ + + +MEMORIALS OF OLD HAMPSHIRE. + +Edited by the Rev. G. E. JEANS, M.A., F.S.A. Dedicated by kind +permission to His Grace the Duke of Wellington, K.G. + + "'Memorials of the Counties of England' is worthily carried on + in this interesting and readable volume."--_Scotsman._ + + +MEMORIALS OF OLD SOMERSET. + +Edited by F. J. SNELL, M.A. Dedicated by kind permission to the Most +Hon. the Marquis of Bath. + + "In these pages, as in a mirror, the whole life of the + county, legendary, romantic, historical, comes into view, + for in truth the book is written with a happy union of + knowledge and enthusiasm--a fine bit of glowing mosaic put + together by fifteen writers into a realistic picture of the + county."--_Standard._ + + +MEMORIALS OF OLD WILTSHIRE. + +Edited by ALICE DRYDEN. + + "The admirable series of County Memorials ... will, it is + safe to say, include no volume of greater interest than that + devoted to Wiltshire."--_Daily Telegraph._ + + +MEMORIALS OF OLD SHROPSHIRE. + +Edited by the Rev. THOMAS AUDEN, M.A., F.S.A. + + "Quite the best volume which has appeared so far in a series + that has throughout maintained a very high level."--_Tribune._ + + +MEMORIALS OF OLD KENT. + +Edited by the Rev. P. H. DITCHFIELD, M.A., F.S.A., and GEORGE +CLINCH, F.G.S. Dedicated by special permission to the Rt. Hon. Lord +Northbourne, F.S.A. + + "A very delightful addition to a delightful series. Kent, rich + in honour and tradition as in beauty, is a fruitful subject + of which the various contributors have taken full advantage, + archæology, topography, and gossip being pleasantly combined + to produce a volume both attractive and valuable."--_Standard._ + + +MEMORIALS OF OLD DERBYSHIRE. + +Edited by the Rev. J. CHARLES COX, LL.D., F.S.A. Dedicated by kind +permission to His Grace the Duke of Devonshire, K.G. + + "A valuable addition to our county history, and will possess + a peculiar fascination for all who devote their attention + to historical, archæological, or antiquarian research, and + probably to a much wider circle."--_Derbyshire Advertiser._ + + +MEMORIALS OF OLD DORSET. + +Edited by the Rev. THOMAS PERKINS, M.A., and the Rev. HERBERT PENTIN, +M.A. Dedicated by kind permission to the Right Hon. Lord Eustace Cecil, +F.R.G.S. + + "The volume, in fine, forms a noteworthy accession to the + valuable series of books in which it appears."--_Scotsman._ + + +MEMORIALS OF OLD WARWICKSHIRE. + +Edited by ALICE DRYDEN. + + "Worthy of an honoured place on our shelves. It is also one of + the best, if not the best, volume in a series of exceptional + interest and usefulness."--_Birmingham Gazette._ + + +MEMORIALS OF OLD NORFOLK. + +Edited by the Rev. H. J. DUKINFIELD ASTLEY, M.A., Litt.D., F.R.Hist.S. +Dedicated by kind permission to the Right Hon. Viscount Coke, C.M.G., +C.V.O. + + "This latest contribution to the history and archæology of + Norfolk deserves a foremost place among local works.... The + tasteful binding, good print, and paper are everything that + can be desired."--_Eastern Daily Press._ + + +MEMORIALS OF OLD LONDON. Two vols. Price 25/- net. Edited by the Rev. +P. H. DITCHFIELD, M.A., F.S.A. + + CONTENTS: Celtic, Roman, Saxon, and Norman London, by the + Rev. W. J. Loftie, F.S.A.--The Tower of London, by Harold + Sands, F.S.A.--St. Bartholomew's Church, Smithfield, by + J. Tavenor-Perry.--The Charterhouse, by the Rev. A. G. B. + Atkinson, M.A.--Glimpses of Mediæval London, by G. Clinch, + F.G.S.--The Palaces of London, by the Rev. R. S. Mylne, + LL.D., F.S.A.--The Temple, by the Rev. H. G. Woods, D.D., + Master.--The Inns of Court, by E. Williams--The Guildhall, + by C. Welsh, F.S.A.--The City Companies, by the Editor.--The + Kontor of the Hanse, by J. Tavenor-Perry.--The Arms of London, + by J. Tavenor-Perry.--Elizabethan London, by T. Fairman + Ordish, F.S.A.--The London of Pepys, by H. B. Wheatley, + F.S.A.--The Thames and its Bridges, by J. Tavenor-Perry.--The + Old Inns of London, by Philip Norman, LL.D.--London Clubs, + by Sir Edward Brabrook, C.B., F.S.A.--The Coffee Houses, + by G. L. Apperson.--Learned Societies of London, by Sir + Edward Brabrook, C.B., F.S.A.--Literary Shrines, by Mrs. + Lang.--Crosby Hall, by the Editor.--The Pageant of London; + with some account of the City Churches, Christ's Hospital, + etc., by the Editor. + + +MEMORIALS OF OLD ESSEX. Edited by A. CLIFTON KELWAY, F.R.Hist.S. + + Among the contributors are: Guy Maynard, Francis W. Reader, + Rev. J. Charles Cox, LL.D., F.S.A., C. Forbes, T. Grose Lloyd, + C. Fell Smith, Alfred Kingston, Miller Christy, F.L.S., W. W. + Porteous, E. Bertram Smith, Thomas Fforster, Edward Smith, and + the Editor. + + +_The following volumes are in preparation:--_ + +MEMORIALS OF OLD SUFFOLK. Edited by VINCENT B. REDSTONE, F.R.Hist.S. + + Among the contributors will be: F. Seymour Stevenson, M.A., + Rev. J. Charles Cox, LL.D., F.S.A., L. P. Steele Hutton, + Rev. Rowland Maitland, B.A., B. J. Balding, P. Turner, H. J. + Hitchcock, and the Editor. + + +MEMORIALS OF OLD SUSSEX. Edited by PERCY D. MUNDY. + + +MEMORIALS OF OLD LANCASHIRE. Two vols. Price 25/- net. Edited by +LIEUT.-COLONEL FISHWICK, F.S.A. + + +MEMORIALS OF OLD YORKSHIRE. Edited by T. M. FALLOW, M.A., F.S.A. + + +MEMORIALS OF OLD GLOUCESTERSHIRE. Edited by P. W. P. PHILLIMORE, M.A., +B.C.L. + + +MEMORIALS OF OLD LINCOLNSHIRE. Edited by CANON HUDSON, M.A. + + +MEMORIALS OF OLD NOTTINGHAMSHIRE. Edited by P. W. P. PHILLIMORE, M.A., +B.C.L. + + +MEMORIALS OF NORTH WALES. Edited by E. ALFRED JONES. + + +MEMORIALS OF OLD MANXLAND. Edited by the Rev. JOHN QUINE, M.A. + + +MEMORIALS OF SOUTH WALES. Edited by E. ALFRED JONES. + + +MEMORIALS OF OLD STAFFORDSHIRE. Edited by the Rev. W. BERESFORD. + + +MEMORIALS OF OLD MONMOUTHSHIRE. Edited by COLONEL BRADNEY, F.S.A., and +J. KYRLE FLETCHER. + + +MEMORIALS OF OLD WORCESTERSHIRE. Edited by F. B. ANDREWS, F.R.I.B.A. + + +MEMORIALS OF OLD LEICESTERSHIRE. Edited by ALICE DRYDEN. + + +MEMORIALS OF OLD CHESHIRE. Edited by the VEN. THE ARCHDEACON OF +CHESTER, and the Rev. P. H. DITCHFIELD, M.A., F.S.A. + + +OLD ENGLISH GOLD PLATE. + +By E. ALFRED JONES. With numerous Illustrations of existing specimens +of Old English Gold Plate, which by reason of their great rarity and +historic value deserve publication in book form. The examples are +from the collections of Plate belonging to His Majesty the King, the +Dukes of Devonshire, Newcastle, Norfolk, Portland, and Rutland, the +Marquis of Ormonde, the Earls of Craven, Derby, and Yarborough, Earl +Spencer, Lord Fitzhardinge, Lord Waleran, Mr. Leopold de Rothschild, +the Colleges of Oxford and Cambridge, &c. Royal 4to, buckram, gilt top. +Price 21/- net. + + "Pictures, descriptions, and introduction make a book that + must rank high in the estimation of students of its subject, + and of the few who are well off enough to be collectors in + this Corinthian field of luxury."--_Scotsman._ + + +LONGTON HALL PORCELAIN. + +Being further information relating to this interesting fabrique, by +the late WILLIAM BEMROSE, F.S.A., author of _Bow, Chelsea and Derby +Porcelain_. Illustrated with 27 Coloured Art Plates, 21 Collotype +Plates, and numerous line and half-tone Illustrations in the text. +Bound in handsome "Longton-blue" cloth cover, suitably designed. Price +42/- net. + + "This magnificent work on the famous Longton Hall ware will be + indispensable to the collector."--_Bookman._ + + "The collector will find Mr. Bemrose's explanations of the + technical features which characterize the Longton Hall + pottery of great assistance in identifying specimens, + and he will be aided thereto by the many well-selected + illustrations."--_Athenæum._ + + +THE VALUES OF OLD ENGLISH SILVER & SHEFFIELD PLATE, FROM THE FIFTEENTH +TO THE NINETEENTH CENTURIES. + +By J. W. CALDICOTT. Edited by J. STARKIE GARDNER, F.S.A. 3,000 Selected +Auction Sale Records; 1,600 Separate Valuations; 660 Articles. +Illustrated with 87 Collotype Plates. 300 pages. Royal 4to Cloth. Price +42/- net. + + "A most comprehensive and abundantly illustrated volume.... + Enables even the most inexperienced to form a fair opinion of + the value either of a single article or a collection, while as + a reference and reminder it must prove of great value to an + advanced student."--_Daily Telegraph._ + + +HISTORY OF OLD ENGLISH PORCELAIN AND ITS MANUFACTURES. + +With an Artistic, Industrial and Critical Appreciation of their +Productions. By M. L. SOLON, the well-known Potter-Artist and +Collector. In one handsome volume. Royal 8vo, well printed in clear +type on good paper, and beautifully illustrated with 20 full-page +Coloured Collotype and Photo-Chromotype Plates and 48 Collotype Plates +on Tint. Artistically bound. Price 52/6 net. + + "Mr. Solon writes not only with the authority of the master of + technique, but likewise with that of the accomplished artist, + whose exquisite creations command the admiration of the + connoisseurs of to-day."--_Athenæum._ + + +MANX CROSSES; or The Inscribed and Sculptured Monuments of the Isle of +Man, from about the end of the Fifth to the beginning of the Thirteenth +Century. + +By P. M. C. KERMODE, F.S.A.Scot., &c. The illustrations are from +drawings specially prepared by the Author, founded upon rubbings, and +carefully compared with photographs and with the stones themselves. +In one handsome Quarto Volume 11-1/8 in. by 8-5/8 in., printed on Van +Gelder hand-made paper, bound in full buckram, gilt top, with special +design on the side. Price 63/- net. The edition is limited to 400 +copies. + + "We have now a complete account of the subject in this very + handsome volume, which Manx patriotism, assisted by the + appreciation of the public in general, will, we hope, make a + success."--_Spectator._ + + +DERBYSHIRE CHARTERS IN PUBLIC AND PRIVATE LIBRARIES AND MUNIMENT ROOMS. + +Compiled, with Preface and Indexes, for Sir Henry Howe Bemrose, Kt., +by ISAAC HERBERT JEAYES, Assistant Keeper in the Department of MSS., +British Museum. Royal 8vo, cloth, gilt top. Price 42/- net. + + "The book must always prove of high value to investigators in + its own recondite field of research, and would form a suitable + addition to any historical library."--_Scotsman._ + + +SOME DORSET MANOR HOUSES, WITH THEIR LITERARY AND HISTORICAL +ASSOCIATIONS. + +By SIDNEY HEATH, with a fore-word by R. Bosworth Smith, of Bingham's +Melcombe. Illustrated with forty drawings by the Author, in addition +to numerous rubbings of Sepulchral Brasses by W. de C. Prideaux, +reproduced by permission of the Dorset Natural History and Antiquarian +Field Club. Dedicated by kind permission to the most Hon. the Marquis +of Salisbury. Royal 4to, cloth, bevelled edges. Price 30/- net. + + "Dorset is rich in old-world manor houses; and in this + large, attractive volume twenty are dealt with in pleasant, + descriptive and antiquarian chapters, fully illustrated with + pen-and-ink drawings by Mr. Heath and rubbings from brasses by + W. de C. Prideaux."--_Times._ + + +THE CHURCH PLATE OF THE DIOCESE OF BANGOR. + +By E. ALFRED JONES. With Illustrations of about one hundred pieces +of Old Plate, including a pre-Reformation Silver Chalice, hitherto +unknown; a Mazer Bowl, a fine Elizabethan Domestic Cup and Cover, a +Tazza of the same period, several Elizabethan Chalices, and other +important Plate from James I. to Queen Anne. Demy 4to, buckram. Price +21/- net. + + "This handsome volume is the most interesting book on Church + Plate hitherto issued."--_Athenæum._ + + +THE OLD CHURCH PLATE OF THE ISLE OF MAN. + +By E. ALFRED JONES. With many illustrations, including a +pre-Reformation Silver Chalice and Paten, an Elizabethan Beaker, and +other important pieces of Old Silver Plate and Pewter. Crown 4to, +buckram. Price 10/6 net. + + "A beautifully illustrated descriptive account of the + many specimens of Ecclesiastical Plate to be found in the + Island."--_Manchester Courier._ + + +GARDEN CITIES IN THEORY AND PRACTICE. + +By A. R. SENNETT, A.M.I.C.E., &c. Large Crown 8vo. Two vols., +attractively bound in cloth, with 400 Plates, Plans and Illustrations. +Price 21/- net. + + "... What Mr. Sennett has to say here deserves, and will no + doubt command, the careful consideration of those who govern + the future fortunes of the Garden City."--_Bookseller._ + + +DERBY: ITS RISE AND PROGRESS. + +By A. W. DAVISON, illustrated with 12 plates and two maps. Crown 8vo, +cloth. Price 5/-. + + "A volume with which Derby and its people should be well + satisfied."--_Scotsman._ + + +THE CORPORATION PLATE AND INSIGNIA OF OFFICE OF THE CITIES AND TOWNS OF +ENGLAND AND WALES. + +By the late LLEWELLYNN JEWITT, F.S.A. Edited and completed with large +additions by W. H. ST. JOHN HOPE, M.A. Fully illustrated, 2 vols., +Crown 4to, buckram, 84/- net. Large paper, 2 vols., Royal 4to, 105/- +net. + + "It is difficult to praise too highly the careful research + and accurate information throughout these two handsome + quartos."--_Athenæum._ + + +THE RELIQUARY: AN ILLUSTRATED MAGAZINE FOR ANTIQUARIES, ARTISTS, AND +COLLECTORS. + +A Quarterly Journal and Review devoted to the study of primitive +industries, mediæval handicrafts, the evolution of ornament, religious +symbolism, survival of the past in the present, and ancient art +generally. Edited by the Rev. J. CHARLES COX, LL.D., F.S.A. New Series. +Vols. 1 to 13, Super Royal 8vo, buckram, price 12/- each net. Special +terms for sets. + + "Of permanent interest to all who take an interest in the + many and wide branches of which it furnishes not only + information and research, but also illumination in pictorial + form."--_Scotsman._ + + * * * * * + +LONDON: BEMROSE & SONS LTD., 4 SNOW HILL, E.C.; AND DERBY. + +*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 48187 *** diff --git a/48187/48187-h/48187-h.htm b/48187-h/48187-h.htm index 8eb6b87..049e538 100644 --- a/48187/48187-h/48187-h.htm +++ b/48187-h/48187-h.htm @@ -1,13579 +1,13201 @@ -<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN"
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-<h1>The Project Gutenberg eBook, Memorials of Old London, Volume II (of 2),
-Edited by P. H. Peter Hampson) Ditchfield</h1>
-<p>This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States
-and most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no
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-located in the United States, you'll have to check the laws of the
-country where you are located before using this ebook.</p>
-<p>Title: Memorials of Old London, Volume II (of 2)</p>
-<p>Editor: P. H. Peter Hampson) Ditchfield</p>
-<p>Release Date: February 7, 2015 [eBook #48187]</p>
-<p>Language: English</p>
-<p>Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1</p>
-<p>***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MEMORIALS OF OLD LONDON, VOLUME II (OF 2)***</p>
-<p> </p>
-<h3>E-text prepared by Susan Skinner<br />
- and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team<br />
- (http://www.pgdp.net)</h3>
-<p> </p>
-<table border="0" style="background-color: #ccccff;margin: 0 auto;" cellpadding="10">
- <tr>
- <td valign="top">
- Note:
- </td>
- <td>
- Project Gutenberg has the other volume of this work.<br />
- <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm">Volume I</a>: see http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm<br />
- </td>
- </tr>
-</table>
-<p> </p>
-<hr class="pg" />
-<p> </p>
-<p> </p>
-<p> </p>
-
-<p class='p3'><span class="smcap">Memorials of the Counties of England</span></p>
-
-<p class='center'>General Editor:<br />
-<span class="smcap">Rev. P. H. Ditchfield</span>, M.A., F.S.A., F.R.S.L., F.R.Hist.S.</p>
-
-
-
-
-<h1 style="margin-top:4em;"><span class="smcap">Memorials of Old London</span></h1>
-
-<p class='p3' style="margin-bottom:4em;">VOLUME II.</p>
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-
-<div class="figcenter"><a id="frontispiece"></a>
-<img src="images/image_001.jpg" width="600" height="427" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><p class='center'>CRAB TREE INN, HAMMERSMITH
-1898</p>
-
-<p class='center'><i>From a painting
-by Philip Norman, LL.D.</i></p></div>
-</div>
-
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-
-<p class='p1'>MEMORIALS<br />
-OF OLD LONDON</p>
-
-<p class="center">EDITED BY<br />
-<span style="font-size: x-large;">P. H. DITCHFIELD</span>, M.A., F.S.A.</p>
-
-<p class="center"><span class="smcap">Fellow of the Royal Historical Society</span></p>
-<p class='center' style="margin-top: 2em;"><span class="smcap">Author of</span><br />
-<i>The City Companies of London and their Good Works</i><br />
-<i>The Story of our Towns</i><br />
-<i>The Cathedral Churches of Great Britain</i><br />
-<i>&c. &c.</i></p>
-
-
-<p class="center" style="margin-top: 2em;">IN TWO VOLUMES<br />
-VOL. II.</p>
-
-
-<p class="center" style="margin-top: 2em;"><span class='smcap'>With Many Illustrations</span></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img src="images/title.jpg" width="100" height="68" alt="" />
-</div>
-
-<p class="center">LONDON<br />
-BEMROSE & SONS LIMITED, 4 SNOW HILL, E.C.<br />
-AND DERBY<br />
-1908</p>
-
-<p class="center">[<i>All Rights Reserved</i>]
-</p>
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_v" id="Page_v">{v}</a></span></p>
-
-
-
-
-<h2><a name="CONTENTS_OF_VOL_II" id="CONTENTS_OF_VOL_II">CONTENTS OF VOL. II.</a></h2>
-
-
-
-
-
-<div class="center">
-<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
-<tr><td align="right" colspan='3'><span class='smcap'>Page</span></td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left">The Palaces of London</td><td align="left">By Rev. <span class="smcap">R. S. Mylne</span>, B.C.L., F.S.A.</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_1">1</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left">Elizabethan London</td><td align="left">By <span class="smcap">T. Fairman Ordish</span>, F.S.A.</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_21">21</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left">Pepys's London</td><td align="left">By <span class="smcap">H. B. Wheatley</span>, F.S.A.</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_52">52</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left">The Old London Bridges</td><td align="left">By <span class="smcap">J. Tavenor-Perry</span></td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_82">82</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left">The Clubs of London</td><td align="left">By Sir <span class="smcap">Edwd. Brabrook</span>, C.B., F.S.A.</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_99">99</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left">The Inns of Old London</td><td align="left">By <span class="smcap">Philip Norman</span>, LL.D.</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_113">113</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left">The Old London Coffee-Houses</td><td align="left">By <span class="smcap">G. L. Apperson</span>, I.S.O.</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_135">135</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left">The Learned Societies of London</td><td align="left">By Sir <span class="smcap">Edwd. Brabrook</span>, C.B., F.S.A.</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_150">150</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left">Literary Shrines of Old London</td><td align="left">By <span class="smcap">Elsie M. Lang</span></td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_166">166</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left">Crosby Hall</td><td align="left">By the <span class="smcap">Editor</span></td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_182">182</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left">The Pageant of London; with some account of the City Churches, Christ's Hospital, etc.</td><td align="left">By the <span class="smcap">Editor</span></td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_193">193</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left" colspan='2'>Index</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_223">223</a></td></tr>
-</table></div>
-
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_vii" id="Page_vii">{vii}</a></span></p>
-
-
-
-
-<h2><a name="LIST_OF_ILLUSTRATIONS" id="LIST_OF_ILLUSTRATIONS">LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
-IN VOL. II.</a></h2>
-
-
-
-<div class="center">
-<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
-<tr><td align="left">Crab Tree Inn, Hammersmith, 1898</td><td align="left"><i><a href="#frontispiece">Frontispiece</a></i></td></tr>
-<tr><td align="right">(<i>From a painting by Philip Norman, LL.D.</i>)</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="right" colspan='2'><span class="smcap">Page, or Facing Page</span></td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left">The Houses of Parliament</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_4">4</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td align="right">(<i>From a photo. by Mansell & Co.</i>)</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left">A View of the Savoy Palace from the River Thames</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_7">6</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td align="right">(<i>From an engraving published by the Society of Antiquaries in 1750, from a plan by G. Virtue</i>)</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left">Portion of an exact Survey of the Streets, Lanes, and Churches</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_9">8</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td align="right">(<i>Comprehended by the order and directions of the Right Honourable the Lord Mayor, 10th December, 1666</i>)</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left">The Prospect of Bridewell</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_11">10</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td align="right">(<i>Published according to Act of Parliament, 1755, for Stow's Survey</i>)</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left">The Palace of Whitehall</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_14">14</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td align="right">(<i>From a photo. by Mansell & Co.</i>)</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left">St. James's Palace</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_17">16</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td align="right">(<i>From a photo. by Mansell & Co.</i>)</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left">St. James's Palace, from Pall Mall and from the Park</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_19">18</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td align="right">(<i>From an old print</i>)</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left">Plan of London in the time of Queen Elizabeth (1563)</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_25">24</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td align="right">(<i>From an old print</i>)</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left">Shooting Match by the London Archers in the Year 1583</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_44">44</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td align="right">(<i>From an old print</i>)</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left">A View of London as it appeared before the Great Fire</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_56">56</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td align="right">(<i>From an old print</i>)</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left">The Great Fire of London</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_76">76</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td align="right">(<i>From an old print</i>)</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left">South-West View of Old St. Paul's</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_80">80</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td align="right">(<i>From an old print</i>)</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left">Sir John Evelyn's Plan for Rebuilding London after the Great Fire</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_83">82</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td align="right">(<i>From an old print</i>)</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_viii" id="Page_viii">{viii}</a></span>The Undercroft of St. Thomas of Canterbury on the Bridge</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_84">84</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left">The Surrey End of London Bridge</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_89">89</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td align="right">(<i>Drawn by J. Tavenor-Perry</i>)</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left">The Foundation Stone Chair</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_93">93</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td align="right">(<i>Drawn by J. Tavenor-Perry</i>)</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left">Old Westminster Bridge</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_96">96</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td align="right">(<i>Drawn by J. Tavenor-Perry</i>)</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left">Badge of Bridge House Estates</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_98">98</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td align="right">(<i>Drawn by J. Tavenor-Perry</i>)</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left">An Early Letter of the Royal Society, dated January 18th, 1693-4</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_153">152</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left">Cheapside, with the Cross, as they appeared in 1660</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_171">170</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td align="right">(<i>From an old print</i>)</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left">Crosby Hall</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_185">184</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td align="right">(<i>From a drawing by Whichillo, engraved by Stour</i>)</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left">St. Paul's Cathedral, with Lord Mayor's Show on the water</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_190">190</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td align="right">(<i>From an engraving by Pugh, 1804</i>)</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left">Christ's Hospital</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_195">194</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td align="right">(<i>From an old print</i>)</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left">Carrying the Crug-basket</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_196">196</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left">Wooden Platters and Beer Jack</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_198">198</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left">Piggin, Wooden Spoon, Wooden Soup-ladle</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_199">199</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left">Christ's Hospital: The Garden</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_201">200</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td align="right">(<i>From a photo.</i>)</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left">Old Staircase at Christ's Hospital</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_202">202</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left">The Royal Exchange</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_218">218</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td align="right">(<i>From an engraving by Hollar, 1644</i>)</td></tr>
-</table></div>
-<hr class="chap" />
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_1" id="Page_1">{1}</a></span></p>
-
-
-<div class="chapter">
-
-<h2><a name="THE_PALACES_OF_LONDON" id="THE_PALACES_OF_LONDON">THE PALACES OF LONDON</a></h2>
-
-<p class='p3'><span class="smcap">By the Rev. R. S. Mylne, B.C.L. (Oxon), F.S.A.
-F.R.S. (Scots.)</span></p>
-
-<div>
-<img class="drop-cap" src="images/drop-t.png" width="100" height="118" alt="" />
-</div>
-
-<p class="drop-cap">The housing of the Sovereign is always a matter
-of interest to the nation. It were natural to
-expect that some definite arrangement should
-be made for this purpose, planned and executed
-on a grand and appropriate scale. Yet as a matter of
-fact this is seldom the case amongst the western nations
-of Europe. Two different causes have operated in a
-contrary direction. One is the natural predilection of
-the ruler of the State for a commodious palace outside,
-but not far from, the capital. Thus the great Castle of
-Windsor has always been <i>par excellence</i> the favourite
-residence of the King of England. The other is the
-growth of parliamentary institutions. Thus the entire
-space occupied by the original Royal Palace has become
-the official meeting-place of the Parliament; and the King
-himself has perforce been compelled to find accommodation
-elsewhere.</p>
-
-<p>Look at the actual history of the Royal Palace of
-<i>Westminster</i>, where the High Court of Parliament now is
-accustomed to assemble. It was on this very spot that
-Edward the Confessor lived and died, glorying in the
-close proximity of the noble abbey that seemed to give
-sanctity to his own abode. Here the last Saxon King
-entertained Duke William of Normandy, destined to be
-his own successor on the throne. Here he gave the
-famous feast in which he foretold the failure of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_2" id="Page_2">{2}</a></span>
-crusades, as Baring Gould records in his delightful
-<i>Myths of the Middle Ages</i>. Here Edward I. was born,
-and Edward III. died. The great hall was erected by
-William Rufus, and the chapel by King Stephen.
-Henry VIII. added the star chamber. The painted
-chamber, decorated with frescoes by Henry III., was
-probably the oldest portion of the medival palace, and
-just beyond was the prince's chamber with walls
-seven feet thick. There was also the ancient Court
-of Requests, which served as the House of Lords down
-to 1834. The beautiful Gothic Chapel of St. Stephen
-was used as the House of Commons from 1547 to
-1834. The walls were covered with frescoes representing
-scenes from the Old and New Testaments. In modern
-times they resounded to the eloquence of Pitt, Fox,
-Burke, and Canning.</p>
-
-<p>The curious crypt beneath this chapel was carefully
-prepared by H.M. Office of Works for the celebration
-of the marriage of Lord Chancellor Loreburn last
-December, and a coffin was discovered while making
-certain reparations to the stonework, which is believed
-to contain the remains of the famous Dr. Lyndwode,
-Bishop of St. David's from 1442 to 1446.</p>
-
-<p>In the terrible fire on the night of October 16, 1834,
-the entire palace was destroyed with the exception of
-the great hall, which, begun by William Rufus, received
-its present beautiful roof of chestnut wood from Henry
-Yeveley, architect or master mason to Richard II.</p>
-
-<p>The present magnificent Palace of Westminster was
-erected by Sir Charles Barry between 1840 and 1859 in
-the Gothic style, and is certainly one of the finest modern
-buildings in the world. The river front is remarkably
-effective, and presents an appearance which at once
-arrests the attention of every visitor. It is quite
-twice the size of the old palace, formerly occupied by
-the King, and cost three millions sterling. It is certainly
-the finest modern building in London.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3">{3}</a></span></p>
-
-<p>Some critics have objected to the minuteness of the
-decorative designs on the flat surfaces of the walls, but
-these are really quite in accord with the delicate genius
-of Gothic architecture, and fine examples of this kind of
-work are found in Belgium and other parts of the
-Continent.</p>
-
-<p>Every one must admit the elegance of proportion
-manifested in the architect's design, and this it is which
-makes the towers stand out so well above the main
-building from every point of view; moreover, this is
-the special characteristic which is often so terribly
-lacking in modern architecture. One wonders whether
-Vitruvius and kindred works receive their due meed of
-attention in this twentieth century.</p>
-
-<p>Within the palace the main staircase, with the lobby
-and corridors leading to either House of Parliament, are
-particularly fine, and form a worthy approach to the
-legislative chambers of the vast Empire of Great Britain.</p>
-
-<p>The Palace of the <i>Savoy</i> also needs some notice. The
-original house was built by Peter, brother of Boniface,
-for so many years Archbishop of Canterbury, and uncle
-of Eleanor of Provence, wife of King Henry III. By his
-will Peter bequeathed this estate to the monks of
-Montjoy at Havering-at-Bower, who sold it to Queen
-Eleanor, and it became the permanent residence of her
-second son Edmund, Earl of Lancaster, and his
-descendants. When King John of France was made a
-prisoner after the battle of Poitiers in 1356, he was
-assigned an apartment in the Savoy, and here he died
-on April 9, 1364. The sad event is thus mentioned in
-the famous chronicle of Froissart:—</p>
-
-<div class="blockquot">
-
-<p>"The King and Queen, and all the princes of the blood, and all the
-nobles of England were exceedingly concerned from the great love and
-affection King John had shewn them since the conclusion of peace."</p></div>
-
-<p>The best-known member of the Lancastrian family
-who resided in this palace is the famous John of Gaunt,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4">{4}</a></span>
-Duke of Lancaster. During his time, so tradition has it,
-the well-known poet Chaucer was here married to
-Philippa, daughter of Sir Paon de Roet, one of the young
-ladies attached to the household of Blanche, Duchess of
-Lancaster, and the sister of Catherine Swynford, who at
-a later period became the Duke's third wife. However
-this may be, the Savoy was at that time the favourite
-resort of the nobility of England, and John of Gaunt's
-hospitality was unbounded. Stow, in his <i>Chronicle</i>,
-declares "there was none other house in the realm to be
-compared for beauty and stateliness." Yet how very
-transitory is earthly glory, all the pride of place and
-power!</p>
-
-<p>In the terrible rebellion of Wat Tyler, in the year
-1381, the Savoy was pillaged and burnt, and the Duke
-was compelled to flee for his life to the northern parts
-of Great Britain. His Grace had become very unpopular
-on account of the constant protection he had extended to
-the simple followers of Wickcliffe.</p>
-
-<p>After this dire destruction the Savoy was never
-restored to its former palatial proportions. The whole
-property passed to the Crown, and King Henry VII. rebuilt
-it, and by his will endowed it in a liberal manner as a
-hospital in honour of St. John the Baptist. This hospital
-was suppressed at the Reformation under Edward VI., most
-of the estates with which it was endowed passing to the
-great City Hospital of St. Thomas. But Queen Mary
-refounded the hospital as an almshouse with a master
-and other officers, and this latter foundation was finally
-dissolved in 1762.</p>
-
-<p>Over the gate, now long destroyed, of King Henry VII.'s
-foundation were these words:—</p>
-
-<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
-<span class="i0">"Hospitium hoc inopi turbe Savoia vocatum<br /></span>
-<span class="i0">Septimus Henricus solo fundavit ab imo."<br /></span>
-</div></div>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img src="images/image_003.jpg" width="600" height="396" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><p class='center'><span class="smcap">The Houses of Parliament.</span></p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p>The church, which is the only existing remnant of
-former splendour, was built as the chapel of Henry VII.'s<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">{5}</a></span>
-Hospital, and is an interesting example of Perpendicular
-architecture, with a curious and picturesque belfry. In
-general design it resembles a college chapel, and the
-religious services held therein are well maintained. Her
-late Majesty Queen Victoria behaved with great
-generosity to the church of the Savoy. In her capacity
-of Duchess of Lancaster she restored the interior woodwork
-and fittings, and after a destructive fire in 1864
-effected a second restoration of the entire interior of this
-sacred edifice. There is now a rich coloured roof, and
-appropriate seats for clergy and people. There is also
-preserved a brass belonging to the year 1522 from the
-grave of Thomas Halsey, Bishop of Leighlin, and Gavin
-Douglas, Bishop of Dunkeld, famous in Scottish history
-for his piety and learning. There is also a small figure
-from Lady Dalhousie's monument, but all the other tombs
-perished in the flames in 1864. The history of the
-central compartment of the triptych over the font is
-curious. It was painted for the Savoy Palace in the
-fourteenth century, afterwards lost, and then recovered
-in 1876.</p>
-
-<p>Amongst the famous ministers of the Savoy were
-Thomas Fuller, author of the <i>Worthies</i>, and Anthony
-Horneck. In the Savoy was held the famous conference
-between twelve bishops and twelve Nonconformists for
-the revision of the Liturgy soon after the accession of
-King Charles II. In this conference Richard Baxter took
-a prominent part.</p>
-
-<p>In this brief sketch nothing is more remarkable than
-the great variety of uses to which the palace of the Savoy
-has been put, as well as the gradual decay of medival
-splendour. Still, however, the name is very familiar to
-the multitudes of people who are continually passing up
-and down the Strand. Yet it is a far cry to the days of
-Archbishop Boniface of Savoy, and Edmund Earl of
-Lancaster.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">{6}</a></span></p>
-
-<p><i>Bridewell</i> is situated on a low-lying strip of land
-between the Thames and the Fleet, just westwards of the
-south-western end of the Roman wall of London. In
-early days this open space only possessed a tower for
-defensive purposes, just as the famous Tower of London
-guarded the eastern end of the city. Hard by was the
-church of St. Bride, founded in the days of the Danes,
-most likely in the reign of King Canute, and here there
-was a holy well or spring. Hence arose the name of
-Bridewell.</p>
-
-<p>In 1087, ancient records relate, King William gave
-choice stones from his tower or castle, standing at the
-west end of the city, to Maurice, Bishop of London, for
-the repair of his cathedral church.</p>
-
-<p>From time to time various rooms were added to the
-original structure, which seem chiefly to have been used
-for some state ceremonial or judicial purpose. Thus in
-the seventh year of King John, Walter de Crisping,
-the Justiciar, gave judgment here in an important
-lawsuit.</p>
-
-<p>In 1522 the whole building was repaired for the
-reception of the famous Emperor Charles V., but that
-distinguished Sovereign actually stayed in the Black
-Friars, on the other side of the Fleet.</p>
-
-<p>King Henry VIII. made use of Bridewell for the trial
-of his famous divorce case. Cardinal Campeggio was
-President of the Court, and in the end gave judgment
-in favour of Queen Catharine of Aragon. Yet, despite
-the Cardinal, Henry would have nothing more to do with
-Catharine, and at the same time took a dislike to Bridewell,
-which was allowed to fall into decay—in fact,
-nothing of the older building now remains. King
-Edward VI., just before his own death in 1553, granted
-the charter which converted Bridewell into a charitable
-institution, and after many vicissitudes a great work is
-still carried on at this establishment for the benefit of
-the poor of London. In May, 1552, Dr. Ridley, Bishop<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">{7}</a></span>
-of London, wrote this striking letter to Sir William
-Cecil, Knight, and Secretary to the King:—</p>
-
-<div class="blockquot">
-
-<p>"Good Master Cecyl,—I must be suitor with you in our Master
-Christ's cause. I beseech you be good unto him. The matter is, Sir,
-that he hath been too, too long abroad, without lodging, in the streets
-of London, both hungry, naked and cold. There is a large wide empty
-house of the King's Majesty called Bridewell, which would wonderfully
-serve to lodge Christ in, if he might find friends at Court to procure in
-his cause."</p></div>
-
-<p>Thus the philanthropic scheme was started, and brought
-to completion under the mayoralty of Alderman Sir
-George Barnes.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img src="images/image_004.jpg" width="600" height="382" alt="" />
-
-<p class="img_link"><a href="images/image_004_full.jpg">View larger version.</a></p>
-
-<div class="caption"><p class='center'><span class="smcap">A View of the Savoy Palace from the River Thames.</span></p>
-
-<p class='center'><i>Published by the Society of Antiquaries in 1750,
-from a plan by G. Virtue.</i></p>
-
-
-<div class="center">
-<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
-<tr><td align="right"><span class="smcap">AAA</span></td><td align="left">The great building, now a barracks.</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="right"><span class="smcap">BB</span></td><td align="left">Prison for the Savoy, and guards.</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="right"><span class="smcap">CCC</span></td><td align="left">Church of St. Mary le Savoy.</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="right"><span class="smcap">D</span></td><td align="left">Stairs to the waterside.</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="right"><span class="smcap">EFG</span></td><td align="left">Churches of German Lutherans, French and German Calvinists.</td></tr>
-</table></div>
-</div>
-</div>
-
-<p><i>St. James's</i> is the most important royal palace of
-London. For many a long year it has been most closely
-associated with our royal family, and the quaint towers
-and gateway looking up St. James's Street possess an
-antiquarian interest of quite an unique character. This
-palace, moreover, enshrines the memory of a greater
-number of famous events in the history of our land than
-any other domestic building situated in London, and for
-this reason is worthy of special attention.</p>
-
-<p>Its history is as follows:—Before the Norman
-Conquest there was a hospital here dedicated to St. James,
-for fourteen maiden lepers. A hospital continued to
-exist throughout the middle ages, but when Henry VIII.
-became King he obtained this property by an exchange,
-and converted it, as Holinshed bears witness, into "a
-fair mansion and park" when he was married to Anne
-Boleyn. The letters "H. A." can still be traced on the
-chimney-piece of the presence chamber or tapestry room,
-as well as a few other memorials of those distant days.
-And what days they were! Queen Anne Boleyn going
-to St. James's in all the joyous splendour of a royal
-bride, and how soon afterwards meeting her cruel fate at
-the hands of the executioner! Henry VIII. seldom lived
-at St. James's Palace, perhaps on account of the weird
-reminiscences of Anne Boleyn, but it became the favourite<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">{8}</a></span>
-residence of Queen Mary after her husband Philip II.
-returned to Spain, and here she died in utter isolation
-during the dull November days of the autumn of 1558.
-Thus the old palace is first associated with the sad story
-of two unhappy queens!</p>
-
-<p>But brighter days were coming. Prince Henry, the
-eldest son of James I., settled here in 1610, and kept a
-brilliant and magnificent court, attached to which were
-nearly 300 salaried officials. Then in two short years
-he died, November 6, 1612. Then the palace was given to
-Charles, who afterwards ascended the throne in 1625,
-and much liked the place as a residence. It is closely
-associated with the stirring events of this romantic
-monarch's career. Here Charles II., James II., and the
-Princess Elizabeth were born, and here Marie de Medici,
-the mother of Queen Henrietta Maria, took refuge in 1638,
-and maintained a magnificent household for three years.
-It is said her pension amounted to 3,000 a month!
-Her residence within the royal palace increased the
-unpopularity of the King, whose arbitrary treatment of
-Parliament led to the ruinous Civil War. The noble
-House of Stuart is ever unfortunate all down the long
-page of history, and the doleful prognostications of the
-Sortes Vergilian, sought for by the King, proved but
-too true in the event.</p>
-
-<p>We quote six lines of Dryden's translation from the
-sixth book of the <i>neid</i>, at the page at which the King
-by chance opened the book—</p>
-
-<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
-<span class="i0">"Seek not to know, the ghost replied with tears,<br /></span>
-<span class="i0">The sorrows of thy sons in future years.<br /></span>
-<span class="i0">This youth, the blissful vision of a day,<br /></span>
-<span class="i0">Shall just be shewn on earth, and snatched away.<br /></span>
-<span class="i2">. . . . .<br /></span>
-<span class="i0">"Ah! couldst thou break through Fate's severe decree,<br /></span>
-<span class="i0">A new Marcellus shall arise in thee."<br /></span>
-</div></div>
-
-<p>Dr. Wellwood says Lord Falkland tried to laugh the
-matter off, but the King was pensive.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">{9}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img src="images/image_005.jpg" width="449" height="600" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><p class='center'><span class="smcap">Portion of an exact Survey of the Streets, Lanes, and Churches.</span></p>
-
-<p class='center'><i>Comprehended by the order and directions of the Right Honourable the Lord Mayor
-10th December, 1666.</i></p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p>The fortunes of war were against this very attractive
-but weak monarch, who was actually brought as a
-prisoner of the Parliament from Windsor Castle to his
-own Palace of St. James, there to await his trial on a
-charge of high treason in Westminster Hall!</p>
-
-<p>Certain of his own subjects presumed to pass sentence
-of death upon their own Sovereign, and have become
-known to history as the regicides. Very pathetic is the
-story of the scenes which took place at St. James's on
-Sunday, January 28, 1649. A strong guard of parliamentary
-troops escorted King Charles from Whitehall to
-St. James's, and Juxon, the faithful Bishop of London,
-preached his last sermon to his beloved Sovereign from
-the words, "In the day when God shall judge the secrets
-of men by Jesus Christ, according to my Gospel." His
-Majesty then received the Sacrament, and spent much
-time in private devotion. On the morrow he bade farewell
-to his dear children the Duke of Gloucester and the
-Princess Elizabeth, praying them to forgive his enemies,
-and not to grieve, for he was about to die a glorious
-death for the maintenance of the laws and liberties of
-the land and the true Protestant religion. Then he
-took the little Duke of Gloucester on his knees, saying,
-"Sweetheart, now they will cut off thy father's head," and
-the young prince looked very earnestly and steadfastly
-at the King, who bade him be loyal to his brothers
-Charles and James, and all the ancient family of Stuart.
-And thus they parted.</p>
-
-<p>Afterwards His Majesty was taken from St. James's
-to the scaffold at Whitehall. There was enacted the
-most tragic scene connected with the entire history of
-the Royal Family of England. At the hands of Jacobite
-writers the highly-coloured narrative is like to induce
-tears of grief, but the Puritans love to dwell on the
-King's weaknesses and faults. Yet everyone must needs
-acknowledge the calm nobility and unwavering courage
-of the King's bearing and conduct.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">{10}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
-<span class="i0">"He nothing common did or mean<br /></span>
-<span class="i0">Upon that memorable scene,<br /></span>
-<span class="i2">But with his keener eye<br /></span>
-<span class="i2">The axe's edge did try;<br /></span>
-<span class="i0">Nor called the gods with vulgar spite<br /></span>
-<span class="i0">To vindicate his helpless right,<br /></span>
-<span class="i2">But bowed his comely head<br /></span>
-<span class="i2">Down, as upon a bed."<br /></span>
-</div></div>
-
-<p>The great German historian Leopold von Ranke is
-rightly regarded as the best and most impartial authority
-on the history of Europe in the seventeenth century. This
-is what he says on the martyrdom of Charles I.:—</p>
-
-<div class="blockquot">
-
-<p>"The scaffold was erected on the spot where the kings were wont to
-show themselves to the people after their coronation. Standing beside
-the block at which he was to die, he was allowed once more to speak
-in public. He said that the war and its horrors were unjustly laid to his
-charge.... If at last he had been willing to give way to arbitrary
-power, and the change of the laws by the sword, he would not have
-been in this position: he was dying as the martyr of the people, passing
-from a perishable kingdom to an imperishable. He died in the faith of
-the Church of England, as he had received it from his father. Then
-bending to the block, he himself gave the sign for the axe to fall upon
-his neck. A moment, and the severed head was shown to the people,
-with the words: 'This is the head of a traitor.' All public places, the
-crossings of the streets, especially the entrances of the city, were occupied
-by soldiery on foot and on horseback. An incalculable multitude had,
-however, streamed to the spot. Of the King's words they heard nothing,
-but they were aware of their purport through the cautious and guarded
-yet positive language of their preachers. When they saw the severed
-head, they broke into a cry, universal and involuntary, in which the feelings
-of guilt and weakness were blended with terror—a sort of voice of
-nature, whose terrible impression those who heard it were never able to
-shake off."</p></div>
-
-<p>These weighty words of Ranke are well worth quoting,
-as well as the conclusion of the section of his great
-book in which he sums up his estimate of Charles's
-claim to the title of martyr:</p>
-
-<div class="blockquot">
-
-<p>"There was certainly something of a martyr in him, if the man can
-be so called who values his own life less than the cause for which he is
-fighting, and in perishing himself saves it for the future."<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">{11}</a></span></p></div>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img src="images/image_006.jpg" width="600" height="381" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><p class='center'><span class="smcap">The Prospect of Bridewell.</span></p>
-
-<p class='center'><i>Published according to Act of Parliament, 1755, for Stow's Survey.</i></p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p>King Charles I., then, is fairly entitled to be called a
-martyr in the calm and unimpassioned judgment of the
-greatest historian of modern times in the learned Empire
-of Germany, who tests the royal claim by a clear and
-concise definition, framed without any regard to the
-passionate political feeling which distracted England
-in the days of the Stuarts.</p>
-
-<p>And it was in the Palace of St. James that Charles I.
-passed the last terrible days of his earthly life.</p>
-
-<p>On the Restoration, King Charles II. resided at
-Whitehall, and gave St. James's to his brother James,
-Duke of York. Here Queen Mary II. was born, and
-here she was married to William of Orange late in the
-evening on November 4, 1677. Here also Anne Hyde,
-Duchess of York, died in 1671, having lived many years
-more or less in seclusion in the old palace.</p>
-
-<p>James afterwards married Mary of Modena as his
-second wife, and here was born, on June 10, 1688,
-Prince James Edward, better known as the Old Pretender,
-whose long life was spent in wandering and exile, in
-futile attempts to gain the Crown, in unsuccessful
-schemes and ruinous plots, until he and his children
-found rest within the peaceful walls of Rome.</p>
-
-<p>Directly after he landed in England, King William III.
-came to St. James's, and resided here from time to time
-during his possession of the Crown, only towards the
-end of his reign allowing the Princess Anne to reside
-in this palace, where she first heard of King William's
-death. The bearer of the sad news was Dr. Burnet,
-Bishop of Salisbury.</p>
-
-<p>Immediately on his arrival in England, George I.,
-Elector of Hanover, came straight to St. James's just
-as King William III. had done. In his <i>Reminiscences</i>,
-Walpole gives this quaint anecdote:—</p>
-
-<div class="blockquot">
-
-<p>"This is a strange country," remarked the King. "The first morning
-after my arrival at St. James's, I looked out of the window, and saw a
-park with walks and a canal, which they told me were mine. The next<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">{12}</a></span>
-day Lord Chetwynd, the ranger of my park, sent me a fine brace of
-carp out of my canal: and I was told I must give five guineas to Lord
-Chetwynd's servant for bringing me my own carp, out of my own canal,
-in my own park."</p></div>
-
-<p>Many things seem to have surprised King George I.
-in his English dominions, and he really preferred
-Hanover, where he died in 1725.</p>
-
-<p>George II. resided at St. James's when Prince of
-Wales, and here his beloved wife, Queen Caroline of
-Anspach, died on November 20, 1737. Four years
-previously her daughter Anne had here been married to
-the Prince of Orange. It now became customary to
-assign apartments to younger children of the Sovereign
-in various parts of the palace, which thus practically
-ceased to be in the King's own occupation. The
-state apartments are handsome, and contain many
-good portraits of royal personages. The Chapel Royal
-has a fine ceiling, carved and painted, erected in 1540,
-and is constantly used by royalty. George III. hardly
-ever missed the Sunday services when in London.</p>
-
-<p>Of course the original palace covered more ground
-than is now the case, and included the site of Marlborough
-House and some adjacent gardens, now in private ownership.
-The German Chapel Royal, which now projects
-into the grounds of Marlborough House, was originally
-erected by Charles I. for the celebration of Roman Catholic
-worship for Queen Henrietta Maria, and at the time gave
-great offence to all the nobility and people of the land.</p>
-
-<p>"Tempora mutantur, et nos mutamur in illis." Marlborough
-House was originally built by Sir Christopher
-Wren for the great Duke of Marlborough, on a portion of
-St. James's Park given by Queen Anne for that purpose.
-Here died the Duke, and his famous Duchess Sarah. The
-house was bought by the Crown for the Princess Charlotte
-in 1817, and was settled on the Prince of Wales in 1850.
-There are still a number of interesting pictures in the
-grand salon of the victories of the Duke of Marlborough<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">{13}</a></span>
-by Laguerre. The garden covers the space formerly
-occupied by the Great Yard of old St. James's Palace.</p>
-
-<p>Altogether, it is quite clear from the above brief
-account that St. James's is the most important of the
-royal palaces of London, and more closely connected
-than any other with the long history of English Royalty.
-From the days of Henry VIII. to the present time
-there has always been a close personal connection with
-the reigning Sovereign of the British Empire.</p>
-
-<p>The Palace of <i>Whitehall</i> presents a long and strange
-history. Hubert de Burgh, Earl of Kent, Chief Minister
-of King Henry III., became possessed of the land by
-purchase from the monks of Westminster for 140 marks
-of silver and the annual tribute of a wax taper. Hubert
-bequeathed the property by his will to the Black Friars
-of Holborn, who sold it in 1248 to Walter de Grey,
-Archbishop of York, for his Grace's town residence.</p>
-
-<p>When Cardinal Wolsey became possessed of the
-northern archiepiscopal See, he found York House too
-small for his taste, and he set to work to rebuild the
-greater part of this palace on a larger and more
-magnificent scale. On the completion of the works he
-took up his abode here with a household of 800
-persons, and lived with more than regal splendour,
-from time to time entertaining the King himself to
-gorgeous banquets, followed by masked balls. At one
-of these grand entertainments they say King Henry first
-met Anne Boleyn. A chronicler says the Cardinal was
-"sweet as summer to all that sought him."</p>
-
-<p>When the great Cardinal fell into disgrace, and the
-Duke of Suffolk came to Whitehall to bid him resign
-the Great Seal of England, his Eminence left his palace
-by the privy stair and "took barge" to Putney, and
-thence to Esher; and Henry VIII. at once took possession
-of the vacant property, and began to erect new buildings,
-a vast courtyard, tennis court, and picture gallery, and
-two great gateways, all of which are now totally destroyed.
-It was in this palace that he died, January 28, 1547.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">{14}</a></span></p>
-
-<p>During the reign of Queen Elizabeth, Whitehall was
-famous for its magnificent festivities, tournaments, and
-receptions of distinguished foreign princes. Especially
-was this the case in 1581, when the French commissioners
-came to urge the Queen's marriage with the Duke of
-Anjou. Here the Queen's corpse lay in state before the
-interment in March, 1603. James I. likewise entertained
-right royally at Whitehall, and here the Princess Elizabeth
-was married to the Elector Palatine on February 14, 1613.
-King James also employed that distinguished architect
-Inigo Jones to build the beautiful Banqueting House,
-which is all that now remains of Whitehall Palace, and
-is one of the finest architectural fragments in London.
-The proportions are most elegant, and the style perfect.
-Used as a chapel till 1890, it is now the United Service
-Museum, while the great painter Rubens decorated the
-ceiling for Charles I. in 1635.</p>
-
-<p>The whole plan of Inigo Jones remained unfinished,
-but Charles I. lived in regal splendour in the palace,
-entertaining on the most liberal scale, and forming the
-famous collection of pictures dispersed by the Parliament.
-Here it was that the masque of Comus was acted before
-the King, and other masques from time to time. After
-Charles's martyrdom, Oliver Cromwell came to live at
-Whitehall, and died there September 3, 1658. On his
-restoration, in May, 1660, King Charles II. returned to
-Whitehall, and kept his court there in great splendour.
-Balls rather than masques were now the fashion, and Pepys
-and Evelyn have preserved full descriptions of these elegant
-and luxurious festivities, and all the gaiety, frivolity,
-and dissoluteness connected with them, and the manner
-of life at Charles's court. The King died in the palace
-on February 6, 1685, and was succeeded by his austere
-brother James, who, during his brief reign, set up a Roman
-Catholic chapel within the precincts of the royal habitation,
-from which he fled to France in 1688.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img src="images/image_007.jpg" width="600" height="403" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><p class='center'><span class="smcap">The Palace of Whitehall.</span></p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p>King William III. preferred other places of residence,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">{15}</a></span>
-and two fires—one in 1691, the other in 1698—destroyed
-the greater part of Whitehall, which was never rebuilt.</p>
-
-<p><i>Buckingham</i> Palace is now the principal residence in
-London of His Majesty King Edward VII. Though a
-fine pile of building it is hardly worthy of its position
-as the town residence of the mighty Sovereign of the
-greatest Empire of the world, situated in the largest city
-on the face of the globe.</p>
-
-<p>King George III. purchased Buckingham Palace in 1761
-from Sir Charles Sheffield for 21,000, and in 1775 it was
-settled upon Queen Charlotte. In the reign of George IV.
-it was rebuilt from designs by Nash; and in 1846, during
-the reign of Queen Victoria, the imposing eastern faade
-was erected from designs by Blore. The length is 360
-feet, and the general effect is striking, though the architectural
-details are of little merit. In fact, it is a
-discredit to the nation that there is no London palace
-for the Sovereign which is worthy of comparison with
-the Royal Palace at Madrid, or the Papal Palace in Rome,
-though the reason for this peculiar fact is fully set forth
-in the historical sketch of the royal palaces already
-given. King Edward VII. was born here in 1841, and
-here drawing-rooms and leves are usually held. The
-white marble staircase is fine, and there are glorious
-portraits of Charles I. and Queen Henrietta Maria by
-Van Dyck, as well as Queen Victoria and the Prince
-Consort by Winterhalter. There is also a full-length
-portrait of George IV. by Lawrence in the State dining-room.</p>
-
-
-<p>In the private apartments there are many interesting
-royal portraits, as well as a collection of presents from
-foreign princes. There is a lake of five acres in the
-gardens, and the whole estate comprises about fifty acres.
-There is a curious pavilion adorned with cleverly-painted
-scenes from Comus by famous English artists. The view
-from the east over St. James's Park towards the India
-Office is picturesque, and remarkably countrified for the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">{16}</a></span>
-heart of a great city. The lake in this park is certainly
-very pretty, and well stocked with various water-fowl.
-The Horse Guards, Admiralty, and other public offices
-at the eastern extremity of this park occupy the old site
-of the western side of the Palace of Whitehall.</p>
-
-<p><i>Kensington</i> Palace was the favourite abode of King
-William III. He purchased the property from the Earl
-of Nottingham, whose father had been Lord Chancellor,
-and employed Sir Christopher Wren to add a storey to
-the old house, and built anew the present south faade.
-Throughout his reign he spent much money in improving
-the place, and here his wife, Queen Mary II., died on
-December 28, 1694. In the same palace King William
-himself breathed his last breath on March 8, 1702.</p>
-
-<p>Queen Anne lived principally at St. James's, the
-natural residence for the Sovereigns of Great Britain;
-but she took much interest in the proper upkeep of
-Kensington, and it was here that her husband died
-on October 20, 1708, and herself on August 1, 1714.
-Shortly before, she had placed the treasurer's wand in
-the hands of the Duke of Shrewsbury, saying, "For
-God's sake use it for the good of my people,"
-and all the acts of her prosperous reign point to the real
-validity of the popular title given by common consent—the
-good Queen Anne.</p>
-
-<p>She planted the trees on "Queen Anne's Mount,"
-and gave gorgeous ftes in the Royal Gardens, whose
-woodland scenery possesses a peculiar charm all its own.
-The noble groves and avenues of elm trees recall
-St. Cloud and St. Germain in the neighbourhood of Paris,
-and are quite exceptionally fine. Thus Matthew Arnold
-wrote:—</p>
-
-<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
-<span class="i0">"In this lone open glade I lie,<br /></span>
-<span class="i2">Screened by deep boughs on either hand;<br /></span>
-<span class="i0">And at its end, to stay the eye,<br /></span>
-<span class="i2">Those black crowned, red-boled pine trees stand."<br /></span><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">{17}</a></span>
-</div></div>
-
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img src="images/image_008.jpg" width="392" height="600" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><p class='center'><span class="smcap">St. James's Palace.</span></p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p>And Chateaubriand declares:—</p>
-
-<div class="blockquot">
-
-<p>"C'est dans ce parc de Kensington que j'ai mdit l'Essai historique:
-que, relisant le journal de mes courses d'outre mer, j'en ai tir les amours
-d'Atala."</p></div>
-
-<p>And Haydon says:—</p>
-
-<div class="blockquot">
-
-<p>"Here are some of the most poetical bits of tree and stump, and
-sunny brown and green glens and tawny earth."</p></div>
-
-<p>George II. died here very suddenly on October 25, 1760,
-but the Sovereigns of the House of Hanover chiefly made
-use of the place by assigning apartments therein to their
-younger children and near relatives. Here it was that
-Edward Duke of Kent lived with his wife Victoria of
-Saxe-Coburg, and here their only daughter, the renowned
-Queen Victoria, was born, May 24, 1819, and here she
-resided till her accession to the throne in 1837.</p>
-
-<p>Kensington Palace, then, is chiefly celebrated for its
-associations with William III. and Queen Victoria. In
-the brief account of the royal palaces here given, it will
-be seen that none of the sites, with the exception of
-St. James's, remained for any long period of time the
-actual residence of the Sovereign, while three—Westminster,
-Bridewell, and the Savoy—had passed out of
-royal hands for residential purposes before the Reformation
-of religion was completed. Another curious fact
-relates to the origin of the title to these sites, inasmuch
-as three of these estates were obtained from some
-ecclesiastical corporation, as the Archbishop of York, or
-the Hospital of St. James, though Buckingham Palace
-was bought from Sir Charles Sheffield, and Kensington
-from the Earl of Nottingham.</p>
-
-<p>No account of the palaces of London can be regarded
-as complete which omits to mention Lambeth. For more
-than 700 years the Archbishops of Canterbury have
-resided at this beautiful abode, intensely interesting from
-its close association with all the most stirring events in<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">{18}</a></span>
-the long history of England. The estate was obtained
-by Archbishop Baldwin in the year 1197 by exchange
-for some lands in Kent with Glanville, Bishop of
-Rochester. In Saxon times Goda, the sister of King
-Edward the Confessor, had bestowed this property upon
-the Bishopric of Rochester; so that it has been continuously
-in the hands of the Church for near 900
-years. The fine red-brick gateway with white stone
-dressings, standing close to the tower of Lambeth Church,
-is very imposing as seen from the road, and was built by
-Archbishop Cardinal Moreton in 1490. In the Middle
-Ages it was the custom to give a farthing loaf twice a
-week to the poor of London at this gateway, and as many
-as 4,000 were accustomed to partake of the archiepiscopal
-gift. Within the gateway is the outer courtyard of the
-palace, and at the further end, towards the river Thames,
-rises the picturesque Lollard's tower, built between 1434
-and 1445 by that famous ecclesiastical statesman
-Archbishop Chicheley, founder of All Souls' College,
-Oxford. The quaint winding staircase, made of rough
-slabs of unplaned oak, is exactly as it was in Chicheley's
-time. In this tower is the famous chamber, entirely of
-oaken boards, called the Lollards' prison. It is 13 feet
-long, 12 feet broad, and 8 feet high, and eight iron rings
-remain to which prisoners were fastened. The door has
-a lock of wood, fastened with pegs of wood, and may be
-a relic of the older palace of Archbishop Sudbury. On
-the south side of the outer court stands the hall built
-by Archbishop Juxon during the opening years of
-Charles II.'s reign, with a fine timber roof, and Juxon's
-arms over the door leading into the palace. This Jacobean
-hall is now used as the library, and contains many
-precious manuscripts of priceless value, including the
-<i>Dictyes and Sayings of the Philosophers</i>, translated by
-Lord Rivers, in which is found a miniature illumination
-of the Earl presenting Caxton on his knees to Edward IV.,
-who is supported by Elizabeth Woodville and her son<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">{19}</a></span>
-Edward V. This manuscript contains the only known
-portrait of the latter monarch.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img src="images/image_009.jpg" width="600" height="378" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><p class='center'><span class="smcap">St. James's Palace, from Pall Mall and from the Park.</span></p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p>An earlier hall had been built on the same site by
-Archbishop Boniface in 1244.</p>
-
-<p>From the library we pass by a flight of stairs to the
-guard room, now used as the dining hall. The chief
-feature is the excellent series of oil portraits of the
-occupants of the primatial See of Canterbury, beginning
-in the year 1504. The mere mention of the principal
-names recalls prominent events in our national history.</p>
-
-<p>There is Warham painted by Holbein. He was also
-Lord Chancellor, and the last of the medival episcopate.
-There is Cranmer, burnt at Oxford, March 21, 1555.
-There is Cardinal Pole, the cousin and favourite of Queen
-Mary. There is Matthew Parker, the friend of Queen
-Elizabeth, well skilled in learning and a great collector
-of manuscripts, now for the most part in the library of
-Corpus Christi College, Cambridge. There is William
-Laud, painted by Van Dyck, the favourite Counsellor and
-Adviser of Charles I. At the age of 71 he was beheaded
-by order of the House of Commons—an act of vengeance,
-not of justice. There is William Juxon, who stood by
-Charles I. on the scaffold, and heard the ill-fated King
-utter his last word on earth, "Remember." But we
-cannot even briefly recount all the famous portraits to be
-found at Lambeth. The above selection must suffice.</p>
-
-<p>The chapel, also, is a building of singular interest.
-Beneath is an ancient crypt said to have been erected by
-Archbishop Herbert Fitzwalter, while the chapel itself
-was built by Archbishop Boniface of Savoy between 1249
-and 1270. The lancet windows are elegant, and were
-filled with stained glass by Archbishop Laud, all of which
-was duly broken to pieces during the Commonwealth.
-The supposed Popish character of this glass was made an
-article of impeachment against Laud at the trial at which
-he was sentenced to death. Here the majority of the
-archbishops have been consecrated since the reign of King<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">{20}</a></span>
-Henry III. Archbishop Parker was both consecrated
-and also buried in the chapel, but his tomb was desecrated
-and his bones scattered by Scot and Hardyng, who
-possessed the palace under Oliver Cromwell. On the
-restoration they were re-interred by Sir William Dugdale.
-At the west end is a beautiful Gothic confessional, high
-up on the wall, erected by Archbishop Chicheley. Archbishop
-Laud presented the screen, and Archbishop Tait
-restored the whole of this sacred edifice, which measures
-12 feet by 25 feet. Formerly the archbishops lived in
-great state. Thus, Cranmer's household comprised a
-treasurer, comptroller, steward, garnator, clerk of the
-kitchen, caterer, clerk of the spicery, yeoman of the
-ewery, bakers, pantlers, yeoman of the horse, yeoman
-ushers, besides numerous other less important officials.</p>
-
-<p>Cardinal Pole possessed a patent from Queen Mary,
-authorising a household of 100 servants. The modern
-part of the palace was built by Archbishop Howley in
-the Tudor style. He held the See from 1828 to 1848,
-and was the last prelate to maintain the archiepiscopal
-state of the olden time.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">{21}</a></span></p>
-</div>
-
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-<div class="chapter">
-<h2><a name="ELIZABETHAN_LONDON" id="ELIZABETHAN_LONDON">ELIZABETHAN LONDON</a></h2>
-
-<p class='p3'><span class="smcap">By T. Fairman Ordish, F.S.A.</span></p>
-
-
-<div>
-<img class="drop-cap" src="images/drop-t.png" width="100" height="118" alt="" />
-</div>
-
-<p class="drop-cap">The leading feature of Elizabethan London was
-that it was a great port. William Camden,
-writing in his <i>Britannia</i>, remarked that the
-Thames, by its safe and deep channel, was
-able to entertain the greatest ships in existence, daily
-bringing in so great riches from all parts "that it
-striveth at this day with the Mart-townes of Christendome
-for the second prise, and affoordeth a most sure and
-beautiful Roade for shipping" (Holland's translation).
-Below the great bridge, one of the wonders of Europe,
-we see this shipping crowding the river in the maps
-and views of London belonging to the reign of Queen
-Elizabeth. The Tower and the bridge were the city's
-defences against attack by water. Near the Tower was
-the Custom House, where peaceful commerce paid its
-dues; and between the Custom House and the bridge
-was the great wharf of Billingsgate, where goods were
-landed for distribution. Near the centre of the bridge
-was a drawbridge, which admitted vessels to another
-great wharf, Queenhithe, at a point midway between
-London Bridge and Blackfriars. Between the bridge
-and Queenhithe was the Steelyard, the domain of the
-merchants of the Hanseatic League. Along the river
-front were numerous other wharves, where barges and
-lighters unloaded goods which they brought from the
-ships in the road, or from the upper reaches of the
-Thames. For the river was the great highway of London.
-It answered the needs of commerce, and it furnished the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">{22}</a></span>
-chief means of transit. The passenger traffic of
-Elizabethan London was carried on principally by means
-of rowing-boats. A passenger landed at the point
-nearest to his destination, and then walked; or a servant
-waited for him with a saddle-horse. The streets were too
-narrow for coaches, except in two or three main arteries.</p>
-
-<p>The characteristic of present-day London, at which
-all foreigners most marvel, is the amount of traffic in
-the streets. In Elizabethan London this characteristic
-existed in the chief highway—the Thames. The
-passenger-boats were generally described as "wherries,"
-and they were likened by Elizabethan travellers to the
-gondolas of Venice; for instance, by Coryat, in his
-<i>Crudities</i>, who thought the playhouses of Venice very
-beggarly compared with those of London, but admired
-the gondoliers, because they were "altogether as swift
-as our rowers about London." The maps of the period
-reveal the extraordinary number of "stairs" for landing
-passengers along both banks of the river, besides the
-numerous wharves for goods. John Stow, the author of
-the <i>Survey of London</i>, published first in 1598, and again
-in a second edition in 1603, describes the traffic on the
-river. "By the Thames," he says, "all kinds of
-merchandise be easily conveyed to London, the principal
-storehouse and staple of all commodities within this
-realm. So that, omitting to speak of great ships and
-other vessels of burthen, there pertaineth to the cities
-of London, Westminster, and borough of Southwark,
-above the number, as is supposed, of 2,000 wherries and
-other small boats, whereby 3,000 poor men at the least
-be set on work and maintained." Many of these
-watermen were old sailors, who had sailed and fought
-under Drake. The Armada deliverance was recalled by
-Drake's ship, which lay in the river below the bridge.
-The voyage of the Earl of Essex to Spain, the
-expeditions to Ireland and to the Low Countries, formed
-the staple of the gossip of these old sailors who found<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">{23}</a></span>
-employment in the chief means of locomotion in
-Elizabethan London.</p>
-
-<p>There was only the single bridge, but there were
-several ferries. The principal ferry was from Blackfriars
-and the Fleet river to a point opposite on the Surrey
-side, called Paris Garden stairs—nearly in a line with
-the present Blackfriars Bridge. At Westminster was
-another, from the Horseferry Road to a point a little west
-of Lambeth Palace—almost in the line of the present
-Lambeth Bridge. The river was fordable at low tide
-at this point; horses crossed here—whence the name
-Horseferry—and possibly other cattle, when the tide was
-unusually low.</p>
-
-<p>The sea is the home of piety. Coast towns, ports,
-and havens, reached after voyages of peril, are invariably
-notable for their places of worship, and for customs
-which speak touchingly—like the blessing of fishermen's
-nets, for instance—of lives spent in uncertainty and
-danger. Thus, the leading characteristic of Elizabethan
-London being its association with the sea and its
-dependence on the river, we find that its next most
-striking characteristic was the extraordinary number of
-churches it contained. The great cathedral predominated
-more pronouncedly than its modern successor. From the
-hill on which it was based it reared its vast bulk; its
-great spire ascended the heavens, and the multitude of
-church towers and spires and belfries throughout the
-city seemed to follow it. The houses were small, the
-streets were narrow; but to envisage the city from the
-river, or from the Surrey side, was to have the eye
-led upwards from point to point to the summit of
-St. Paul's. The dignity and piety of London were thus
-expressed, in contradiction to human foibles and failings
-so conspicuous in Elizabethan drama. The spire of
-St. Paul's was destroyed by lightning early in the reign
-of Elizabeth; and the historian may see much significance
-in the fact that it was not rebuilt, even in thanksgiving<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">{24}</a></span>
-and praise for the deliverance from the Great Armada.
-The piety of London dwindled until it flamed forth
-anew in the time of the Puritan revolt.</p>
-
-<p>The bridge was carried on nineteen arches. It had
-a defensive gate at the Southwark end, and another
-gateway at the northern end. In the centre was a
-beautiful chapel, dedicated to Thomas Becket, and
-known as St. Thomas of the Bridge. Houses were built
-on the bridge, mostly shops with overhanging signs,
-as in the streets of the city. Booksellers and
-haberdashers predominated, but other trades were carried
-on also. After the chapel, the most conspicuous feature
-of the bridge was "Nonesuch House," so called to express
-the wonder that it was constructed in Holland entirely
-of wood, brought over the water piece by piece, and
-put together on the bridge by dovetailing and pegs,
-without the use of a single metal nail. Adjoining the
-northern gateway was an engine for raising water by
-means of a great wheel operated by the tide. Near
-the Southwark end were corn-mills, worked on the same
-principle, below the last two arches of the bridge. The
-gateway at the Southwark end, so well shown in Visscher's
-view of London, was finished in 1579, and the traitors'
-heads, which formerly surmounted a tower by the
-drawbridge, were transferred to it. Travellers from the
-south received this grim salutation as they approached
-the bridge, which led into the city; and when they
-glanced across the river, the Tower frowned upon them,
-and the Traitors' Gateway, like teeth in an open mouth,
-deepened the effect of warning and menace.</p>
-
-<p>But these terrors loomed darkling in the background
-for the most part. They belonged rather to the time
-when the sovereign's palaces at Westminster and at the
-Tower seemed to hold London in a grip. The palace
-at Westminster now languished in desuetude; the Tower
-was a State prison, and—with some ironical intent,
-perhaps—also the abode of the royal beasts, lions,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">{25}</a></span>
-tigers, leopards, and other captives. The Queen passed
-in her royal barge down the river with ceremonious
-pageantry from her palace of Whitehall; the drawbridge
-raised, the floating court passed the Tower as with lofty
-indifference on its way to "Placentia," Her Majesty's
-palace at Greenwich. Out of the silence of history a
-record speaks like a voice, and tells us that here, in
-1594, Shakespeare and his fellows performed at least
-two comedies or interludes before Her Majesty, and we
-know even the amounts that were paid them for their
-services.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img src="images/image_011.jpg" width="600" height="336" alt="" />
-
-<p class="img_link"><a href="images/image_011_full.jpg">View larger version.</a></p>
-
-<div class="caption"><p class='center'><span class="smcap">Plan of London in the time of Queen Elizabeth (1563).</span></p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p>In the <i>Survey</i> of John Stow we have three separable
-elements: the archology and history of London, Stow's
-youthful recollections of London in the time of Henry
-the Eighth, and Stow's description of the great change
-which came over London after the dissolution of the
-religious houses, and continued in process throughout
-his lifetime. The medival conditions were not remote.
-He could remember when London was clearly defined
-by the wall, like a girdle, of which the Tower was the
-knot. No heroic change had befallen; the wall had
-not been cast down into its accompanying fosse to form
-a ring-street, as was done when Vienna was transformed
-from the medival state. London had simply filled
-up the ditch with its refuse; its buildings had simply
-swarmed over the wall and across the dike; shapeless
-and haphazard suburbs had grown up, till the surrounding
-villages became connected with the city. Even more
-grievous, in the estimation of Stow, was the change which
-he had witnessed within the city itself. The feudal lords
-had departed, and built themselves mansions outside
-the city. The precincts of the dissolved religious
-establishments had been converted into residential
-quarters, and a large proportion of the old monastic
-gardens had been built upon. The outlines of society had
-become blurred. Formerly, the noble, the priest, and
-the citizen were the defined social strata. Around each<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">{26}</a></span>
-of these was grouped the rest of the social units in
-positions of dependence. A new type of denizen had
-arisen, belonging to none of the old categories—the
-typical Elizabethan Londoner.</p>
-
-<p>The outward aspect of Elizabethan London reflected
-this social change. On the south of the city, along the
-line of Thames Street, the wall had entirely disappeared.
-On the east and west it was in decay, and was becoming
-absorbed in fresh buildings. Only on the north side of
-the city, where it had been re-edified as late as 1474, did
-the wall suggest its uses for defence. In the map of
-Agas, executed early in the reign of Elizabeth, this
-portion of the wall, with its defensive towers and bastions,
-appears singularly well preserved. Thus the condition of
-the wall suggested the passing of the old and the coming
-of the new order. The gates which formerly defended
-the city, where the chief roadways pierced the wall,
-still remained as monuments, and they were admirably
-adapted to the purpose of civic pageantry and ceremonial
-shows. Indeed, the gateway on the Oxford road was
-rebuilt in 1586, and called Newgate, "from the newness
-thereof," and it was the "fairest" of all the gates of
-London. It is reckoned that this was the year that
-Shakespeare came to London from Stratford-on-Avon;
-and the assumption is generally allowed that he entered
-the city by Newgate, which would be his direct road.
-A new gate, of an artistic and ornamental character,
-set in the ancient wall, was a sign and a symbol of
-the new conditions in London, of which Shakespeare
-himself was destined to become the chief result.</p>
-
-<hr class="tb" />
-
-
-<p>With the characteristics of London as a great mart
-and port is included the foreign elements in its
-population. In Lombard Street the merchants of
-Lombardy from early medival times had performed
-the operations of banking and foreign exchange; and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">{27}</a></span>
-around them were assembled the English merchants of
-all qualities and degrees. Business was conducted in
-the open street, and merchants merely adjourned into
-the adjoining houses to seal their bonds and make their
-formal settlements. Henry VIII. tried to induce the
-city to make use of the great building of Leadenhall
-for this purpose; but the innovation was resisted, and
-Lombard Street continued to be the burse of London
-till long after the accession of Elizabeth. The name
-of Galley Key remained in Tower Street ward to mark
-the spot on the river bank "where the galleys of
-Italy and other parts did discharge their wines and
-merchandises brought to this city." The men of the
-galleys lived as a colony by themselves in Mincing Lane;
-the street leading to their purlieus was called,
-indifferently, Galley Row and Petit Wales. Here was
-a great house, the official territorium of the Principality.
-The original of Shakespeare's "Fluellen" may very
-possibly have been a denizen of this quarter.</p>
-
-<p>Above the bridge, in Thames Street, was the
-territorium of the Hanse merchants, alluded to by Stow
-as "the merchants of Almaine," and by Camden as
-"the Easterlings or Dutch merchants of the Steelyard."
-Their position in the city was one of great importance:
-the export trade of the country in woollen goods was
-chiefly in their hands, and they had their own Guildhall
-in Upper Thames Street, called the <i>Gilda Teutonicorum</i>.
-The special privileges accorded to this foreign
-commercial community carried the obligation to maintain
-Bishopsgate in repair, and "to defend it at all times
-of danger and extremity." When the house of the
-Augustine Friars, Old Broad Street, was dissolved, and
-its extensive gardens became cut up and built upon, the
-Dutch colony settled there in residence, and the church
-of Austin Friars was specially assigned to them by
-Edward VI. Towards the end of the reign of Elizabeth
-the privileges of the Hanse merchants were revoked,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">{28}</a></span>
-and their guildhall was confiscated to the use of the
-navy. But the Dutch element continued as a part of
-the commercial life of the city, and the church of Austin
-Friars is still the "church of the Dutch nation in London."</p>
-
-<p>West of the Steelyard was the Vintry. Here the
-merchants of Bordeaux had been licensed to build their
-warehouses of stone, at the rear of a great wharf, on
-which were erected cranes for unloading the lighters
-and other boats which brought the casks from the ships
-below bridge. The trade of these foreign merchants
-gave the name of Vintry Ward to one of the divisions
-of the city. In Bishopsgate Ward, near the church of
-St. Botolph, was a French colony, their purlieus forming
-a quadrant, called Petty France.</p>
-
-<p>Elizabethan London was more cosmopolitan than
-many European capitals. In Lombard Street the
-merchants of Germany, France, and Italy were
-conspicuously differentiated by the varieties of costume.
-On the site of the present Royal Exchange, Sir Thomas
-Gresham laid the first stone of his great Bourse in 1566;
-the design was in imitation of the Bourse at Antwerp;
-the materials of its construction were imported from
-Flanders; the architect and builder was a Fleming,
-named Henryke. The opening of this building by Queen
-Elizabeth in state in January, 1571, when Her Majesty
-commanded it to be proclaimed by herald and trumpet
-that the Bourse should be called The Royal Exchange
-from that time henceforth, is a familiar story, because
-it is, in fact, one of the most striking and significant
-events in the history of London. The trumpet of that
-herald, on January 23rd, 1571, announced a new era.</p>
-
-
-<p>The building was a quadrangle, enclosing an open
-space. The sides formed a cloister or sheltered walk;
-above this was a corridor, or walk, called "the pawn,"
-with stalls or shops, like the Burlington Arcade of the
-present day; above this again was a tier of rooms.
-The great bell-tower stood on the Cornhill front; the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">{29}</a></span>
-bell was rung at noon and at six in the evening. On
-the north side, looking towards St. Margaret's, Lothbury,
-was a tall Corinthian column. Both tower and column
-were surmounted by a grasshopper—the Gresham crest.
-The inscription on the faade of the building was in
-French, German, and Italian. The motley scene of
-Lombard Street had been transferred to the Royal
-Exchange. The merchants of Amsterdam, of Antwerp,
-of Hamburg, of Paris, of Bordeaux, of Venice and
-Vienna, distinguishable to the eye by the dress of the
-nations they represented, and to the ear by the differences
-of language, conducted their exchanges with English
-merchants, and with each other, in this replica of the
-Bourse of Antwerp, the rialto of Elizabethan London.<a name="FNanchor_1_1" id="FNanchor_1_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_1_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a></p>
-
-<p>Cheapside was called West Cheap in Elizabethan
-London, in contradistinction to East Cheap, famous for
-ever as the scene of the humours of "Dame Quickly"
-and "Falstaff." The change in West Cheap since the
-medival period was chiefly at the eastern end, on the
-north side. Here a large space opposite the church of
-St. Mary-le-Bow was formerly kept clear of building,
-although booths and stalls for market purposes occupied
-the ground temporarily. The space was otherwise
-reserved for the medival jousts, tournaments, and other
-civic pageantry. The site of Mercers' Hall was occupied
-by the <i>Militia Hospitalis</i>, called, after Thomas Becket,
-St. Thomas of Acon. After the Dissolution this
-establishment was granted by Henry to the Mercers'
-Company, who adapted the existing buildings to the
-purposes of their hall, one of the principal features of
-Cheap in Elizabethan times. The district eastward of
-Mercers' Hall had become filled up with building, and
-the making of Cheap as a thoroughfare was now<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">{30}</a></span>
-complete. The original road westward was from the
-top of New Fish Street, by East Cheap, Candlewick
-or Cannon Street, past London Stone (probably the
-Roman <i>Milliarium</i>), along Budge Row and Watling
-Street, to the site of St. Paul's, where it is conjectured
-a temple of Diana stood in Roman times. But Cheap,
-or West Cheap, was the chief traffic way westward in
-Elizabethan London; it was filled with shops and
-warehouses, a thriving business centre, the pride of the
-city. The name of "Cheap" was derived from the
-market, and several of the streets leading into it yet
-bear names which in Elizabethan times were descriptive
-of the trades there carried on. Thus the Poultry was
-the poulterers' market; ironmongers had their shops in
-Ironmonger Lane, as formerly they had their stalls in
-the same area; in Milk Street were the dairies; and
-towards the west end of Cheap was Bread Street, the
-market of the bakers, and Friday Street, where
-fishmongers predominated. Lying between these two
-streets, with frontages in both, was the Mermaid Tavern,
-the chief resort of "the breed of excellent and choice
-wits," included by Camden among the glories of
-Elizabethan London. Stow does not refer to the
-Mermaid by name, but possibly he had it in mind when
-he wrote the following passage: "Bread Street, so called
-of bread sold there, as I said, is now wholly inhabited
-by rich merchants; and divers fair inns be there, for
-good receipt of carriers and other travellers to the
-city." The trades kept themselves in their special
-localities, although they did not always give the name
-to the street they occupied. Thus, to return to the
-eastern end of Cheap, there was Bucklersbury, where
-the pepperers or grocers were located, having given up
-their former quarters in Sopars' Lane to the cordwainers
-and curriers. With the grocers were mingled apothecaries
-and herbalists; and hence the protest of Falstaff, in
-the <i>Merry Wives of Windsor</i>, that he was not "like a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">{31}</a></span>
-many of these lisping hawthorn-buds, that come like
-women in men's apparel, and smell like Bucklesbury in
-simple time." In the midst of Cheap, at a point between
-Mercers' Hall and Old Jewry, opposite the end of
-Bucklersbury, was the water conduit—in the words of
-Stow, "The great conduit of sweet water, conveyed
-by pipes of lead underground from Paddington for
-the service of this city, castellated with stone, and
-cisterned in lead." Around the conduit stood the great
-jars used by the water-carriers to convey the water to
-the houses. The water-carrier, as a type of Elizabethan
-London, is preserved by Ben Jonson in the character
-of Cob in <i>Every Man in his Humour</i>. Going westward
-from the Conduit, another object stood out in the
-roadway—the Standard, a tall pillar at which the public
-executions of the city jurisdiction took place. Still
-further west, in the midst of Cheap, stood the Eleanor
-Cross, one of the most beautiful monuments in London
-at this time.</p>
-
-<p>The Guildhall stood where it stands to-day, accessible
-from Cheap by Ironmonger Lane and St. Lawrence Lane.
-Only the walls and the crypt of the original building
-remain; but the features of this great civic establishment,
-as well as its sumptuous character and beautiful
-adornments, were practically the same in the days of
-Gresham as at the present time. Stow describes the
-stately porch entering the great hall, the paving of
-Purbeck marble, the coloured glass windows, and, alas!
-the library which had been "borrowed" by the Protector
-Somerset in the preceding reign. Near the Guildhall
-was the church of St. Mary Aldermanbury, the
-predecessor of the existing edifice. In this parish dwelt
-Hemmings and Condell, "fellows" of Shakespeare—that
-is to say, players of his company, whom he remembered
-in his will. These men conferred a benefit on all
-future ages by collecting the poet's plays, seven years
-after his death, and publishing them in that folio edition<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">{32}</a></span>
-which is one of the most treasured volumes in the
-world. In the churchyard a monument to their
-memory was erected in 1896. It is surmounted by a bust
-of the poet, who looks forth serenely greeting the
-passer-by from beneath the shade of trees in this quiet
-old churchyard in modern London.</p>
-
-<p>To return to Cheap, it remains to speak of a feature
-which attracted Queen Elizabeth, and was, indeed, one
-of the marvels of London. Here are the <i>ipsissima verba</i>
-of Stow's contemporary description:</p>
-
-<div class="blockquot">
-
-<p>"Next to be noted, the most beautiful frame of fair houses and shops that
-be within the walls of London, or elsewhere in England, commonly called
-Goldsmiths' Row, betwixt Bread Street end and the cross in Cheap ...
-the same was built by Thomas Wood, goldsmith, one of the sheriffs of London,
-in the year 1491. It containeth in number ten fair dwelling-houses and
-fourteen shops, all in one frame, uniformly built four stories high, beautified
-towards the street with the Goldsmiths' arms and the likeness of woodmen, in
-memory of his name, riding on monstrous beasts, all which is cast in lead,
-richly painted over and gilt. These he gave to the goldsmiths, with stocks of
-money, to be lent to young men having those shops. This said front was
-again new painted and gilt over in the year 1594; Sir Richard Martin being
-then mayor, and keeping his mayoralty in one of them."</p></div>
-
-<p>Beyond Goldsmiths' Row was the old Change; the
-name and the street both still exist. Beyond old Change
-were seven shops; then St. Augustine's Gate, leading
-into St. Paul's Churchyard; and then came Paternoster
-Row. Between Paternoster Row and Newgate Street
-stood the Church of St. Michael-le-Querne, stretching
-out into the middle of Cheap, where the statue of
-Sir Robert Peel now stands. Stretching out from the
-east end of the church, still further into the street, was
-a water conduit, which supplied all the neighbourhood
-hereabout, called "The Little Conduit," not because it
-was little, but to distinguish it from the great conduit
-at the other end of Cheap.</p>
-
-<hr class="tb" />
-
-<p>We are concerned in this place not with the history of
-old St. Paul's, nor with the technique of its architecture,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">{33}</a></span>
-but with the great cathedral as a religious and social
-institution, the centre of Elizabethan London. Here the
-streams of life were gathered, and hence they radiated.
-It was the official place of worship of the Corporation;
-the merchants of the city followed. The monarch on
-special occasions attended the services; the nobility
-followed the royal example. The typical Elizabethan
-made the middle aisle his promenade, where he displayed
-the finery of his attire and the elegance of his deportment.
-The satirists found a grand opportunity in the humours
-of Paul's Walk; but the effect of the cathedral is not
-to be derived from such allusions in the literature of
-the time. All classes were attracted by the beautiful
-organ and the anthems so exquisitely sung by the choir.
-The impressive size and noble proportions of the building,
-the soaring height of the nave, the mystery of the open
-tower, where the ascending vision became lost in gathering
-obscurity, and where the chords from the organ died
-away; these spiritual associations, these appeals to the
-imagination, were uplifting influences so powerful that
-the vanities of Paul's Walk were negligible by
-comparison. As with the gargoyle on the outer walls,
-the prevailing effect was so sublime, that it was merely
-heightened by this element of the grotesque.<a name="FNanchor_2_2" id="FNanchor_2_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_2_2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a></p>
-
-<p>The cathedral stood in the midst of a churchyard.
-In the medival period this was enclosed by a wall.
-In the reign of Elizabeth the wall still existed, but, as
-Stow observes, "Now on both sides, to wit, within and
-without, it be hidden with dwelling-houses." In 1561
-the great steeple was struck by lightning and destroyed
-by fire, but the tower from which the spire arose remained.
-The tower was 260 feet high, and the height of the spire
-was the same, so that the pinnacle was 520 feet from the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">{34}</a></span>
-base.<a name="FNanchor_3_3" id="FNanchor_3_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_3_3" class="fnanchor">[3]</a> Surmounting the pinnacle, in this earlier portion
-of Elizabeth's reign, was a weathercock, an object of
-curiosity to which Stow devotes a minute description.
-In the midst of the churchyard stood Paul's Cross—"a
-pulpit cross of timber, mounted upon steps of stone
-and covered with lead, in which are sermons preached
-every Sunday in the forenoon." Many of the monastic
-features of the establishment had disappeared; others
-were transformed and adapted to other uses. The
-great central fabric remained, and the school flourished—"Paul's
-School," in the east part of the churchyard,
-endowed by Dean Colet in 1512, and rebuilt in the
-later years of Elizabeth, where one hundred and
-fifty-three poor men's children were given a free education
-under a master, an usher, and a chaplain.</p>
-
-<hr class="tb" />
-
-<p>Newgate Street, Cheapside, Cornhill, Leadenhall, and
-Aldgate formed (as they do still) nearly a straight line,
-east and west. From this line to the wall on the north,
-in Plantagenet and early Tudor times, the city was largely
-composed of open spaces: chiefly the domains of religious
-houses; while south of the dividing line to the river the
-ground was thickly built over. After the Dissolution the
-transformation of the northern area began.</p>
-
-<p>Considerable building took place in the reign of
-Edward VI.; but at the time of Elizabeth's accession the
-generally open character of this area, as compared with
-the more southerly part of the city, still subsisted. The
-increase of population, however, due very largely to people
-who flocked to London from all parts of the country, led
-to rapid building, which produced the Queen's famous
-proclamation to stay its further progress. To evade the
-ordinance, and to meet the ever-increasing demand, large
-houses were converted into tenements, and a vast number<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">{35}</a></span>
-of people were thus accommodated who lived chiefly out-of-doors
-and took their meals in the taverns, inns, and
-ordinaries which abounded in all parts of the city. The
-pressure of demand continued, and the open spaces
-became gradually built over. The Queen and her
-government, aghast at the incessant tide of increase, in
-terror of the plague, recognised the futility of further
-prohibition, and avoided communication with the city as
-much as possible. At the slightest hint of plague
-Her Majesty would start off on one of her Progresses, or
-betake herself to Richmond, to Hampton Court, or to
-Greenwich.</p>
-
-<p>Some of these transformations of ancient monastic
-purlieus may be briefly instanced. Within Newgate was
-the house and precinct of the Grey Friars. After the
-Dissolution the whole precinct was presented by Henry
-to the citizens of London, and here Edward VI. founded
-the school for poor fatherless children, which became
-famous as Christ's Hospital, "the Bluecoat school."</p>
-
-<p>Let a short passage from Stow describe this change
-from the old order to the new:</p>
-
-<div class="blockquot">
-
-<p>"In the year 1552 began the repairing of the Greyfriars house for
-the poor fatherless children; and in the month of November the
-children were taken into the same, to the number of almost four
-hundred. On Christmas Day, in the afternoon, while the Lord Mayor
-and Aldermen rode to Paules, the children of Christ's Hospital stood from
-St. Lawrence Lane end in Cheape towards Paules, all in one livery of
-russet cotton, three hundred and forty in number; and in Easter next,
-they were in blue at the Spittle, and so have continued ever since."</p></div>
-
-<p>The Greyfriars or Bluecoat school was one of the
-largest buildings in London. Its demesne extended to the
-city wall, in which there was a gate communicating with
-the grounds of St. Bartholomew's Hospital, the famous
-foundation of Rahere. The wall ran northward from the
-New Gate, the ground between the school and the wall
-on that side had been built over. There was a continuous
-line of building along Newgate Street to St. Martin's le
-Grand. The shambles or meat market occupied the centre<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">{36}</a></span>
-of the street, called St. Nicholas Shambles, from a church
-which had been demolished since the Reformation.</p>
-
-<p>From Newgate Street and the top of Cheapside to
-St. Anne's Lane was formerly the territory of the Collegiate
-Church and Sanctuary of St. Martin's le Grand. The
-college was dismantled after the edict of dissolution, but
-the sanctuary remained.</p>
-
-<p>Some of the collegiate buildings had been converted
-into tenements, and other houses had been erected. These
-were occupied by "strangers born"—<i>i.e.</i>, denizens who
-were not born Londoners—although within the walls the
-civic jurisdiction did not extend over this territory.
-Certain trades were carried on here outside the regulated
-industry of the city—<i>e.g.</i>, tailoring and lace-making. The
-district became one of the resorts of the Elizabethan
-ruffler; and under the gis of the ancient right of
-sanctuary a kind of Alsatia came into existence, the scene
-of many exciting episodes when debtors and fugitives from
-justice evaded their pursuers, and succeeded in reaching
-these precincts.</p>
-
-<p>In Broad Street the ancient glory of the Augustine
-Friars was still a memory, and much of their spacious
-domain had been divided into gardens. The beautiful
-church remained, but the spire was becoming ruinous from
-neglect. Stow described the gardens, the gates of the
-precinct, and the great house which had been built here by
-William Paulet, first Marquis of Winchester, Lord
-Treasurer of England, "in place of Augustine friar's house,
-cloister, gardens, etc." There is an admirable irony in the
-recital of Stow at this point:</p>
-
-<div class="blockquot">
-<p>"The friars church he pulled not down, but the west end thereof,
-inclosed from the steeple and choir, was in the year 1550 granted to the
-Dutch nation in London, to be their preaching place: the other part—namely,
-the steeple, choir, and side aisles to the choir adjoining—he
-reserved to household uses, as for stowage of corn, coal and other things;
-his son and heir, Marquis of Winchester, sold the monuments of noblemen
-there buried in great number, the paving stone and whatsoever (which cost
-many thousands) for one hundred pounds, and in place thereof made fair<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">{37}</a></span>
-stabling for horses. He caused the lead to be taken from the roofs, and
-laid tile in place thereof; which exchange proved not so profitable as he
-looked for, but rather to his disadvantage."</p></div>
-
-<p>Between Broad Street and Bishopsgate Street the space
-was chiefly composed of gardens. One of the houses
-fronting Bishopsgate Street was the residence of Sir
-Thomas Gresham (perhaps his house in Lombard Street
-was reserved for business purposes).</p>
-
-<p>On the opposite side of Bishopsgate Street was Crosby
-Hall and the precinct of the dissolved nunnery of St.
-Helen, extending towards St. Mary Axe and the church
-of St. Andrew Undershaft. At the further end of St.
-Mary Axe was the "Papye," a building which had been a
-hospital for poor priests before the Reformation. In the
-year 1598 Shakespeare was living in the St. Helen's
-precinct, within the shadow of Crosby Hall, and John
-Stow, in his home near the church of St. Andrew
-Undershaft, had just corrected the proofs of the first edition
-of his <i>Survey of London</i>. Stow tells us about Gresham's
-House and about Crosby Hall. He tells us that Sir
-Francis Walsingham, the Secretary of State, resided at
-the Papye. He describes the church of St. Andrew
-Undershaft, where his own monument may be seen at the
-present day; he describes, too, the ancient church of the
-nunnery of St. Helen, in which a memorial window now
-commemorates Shakespeare. But he failed to mention
-the fact, which has since been recovered from the
-subsidy-roll in the Record Office, that William Shakespeare
-was a denizen of the precinct in 1598. Had Shakespeare
-built a water conduit in the neighbourhood, or endowed
-an almshouse, he might have been celebrated in the pages
-of John Stow.</p>
-
-<p>They were neighbours, and may have been acquainted.
-The district had been familiar to Stow from childhood,
-and he may have entertained the poet as he entertains
-us in his <i>Survey</i> with recollections of the changes he
-had witnessed in his long lifetime. Describing Tower Hill,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">{38}</a></span>
-he recalls the abbey of nuns of the order of St. Clare,
-called the Minories, and after giving the facts of its history,
-proceeds:</p>
-
-<div class="blockquot">
-
-<p>"In place of this house of nuns is now built divers fair and large
-storehouses for armour and habiliments of war, with divers workhouses
-serving to the same purpose: there is a small parish church for inhabitants
-of the close, called St. Trinities. Near adjoining to this abbey, on the
-south side thereof, was sometime a farm belonging to the said nunnery;
-at the which farm I, myself, in my youth, have fetched many a half-penny
-worth of milk, and never had less than three ale pints for a
-half-penny in the summer, nor less than one ale quart for a half-penny in
-the winter, always hot from the kine, as the same was milked and
-strained. One Trolop, and afterwards Goodman, were the farmers there,
-and had thirty or forty kine to the pail. Goodman's son being heir to
-his father's purchase, let out the ground, first for grazing of horses, and
-then for garden-plots, and lived like a gentleman thereby."</p></div>
-
-<p>Here we have the source of the name Goodman's Fields,
-a point of some interest for us; but how vastly more
-interesting to have rambled with Stow in Elizabethan
-London, listening to such stories of the old order which
-had passed, giving place to the new!</p>
-
-<p>We have strayed outside the wall, but not far. This
-road between Aldgate and the Postern Gate by the Tower,
-running parallel with the wall, is called the Minories,
-after the nunnery. Setting our faces towards Aldgate, to
-retrace our steps, we have the store-houses for armour and
-habiliments of war on our right; the wide ditch on our
-left has been filled up, and partly enclosed for cultivation.
-There are trees, and cows browsing, although the farm
-which Stow remembered no longer existed. Before us,
-just outside Aldgate, is the church of St. Buttolph, with
-its massive tower, standing in a spacious churchyard.
-Owing to the extensive building and development which
-had taken place outside the wall since the Reformation, it
-had been necessary to construct lofts and galleries in this
-church to accommodate the parishioners. At Aldgate
-the line of the wall turns westward towards Bishopsgate.
-Parallel to it a road has been made along the bank of
-the ditch, and leads into Bishopsgate Street. This is<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">{39}</a></span>
-Houndsditch. The houses stand thickly along one side of
-the way looking towards the wall; the ditch has been filled
-up, and the wide surface is used for cattle pens or milking
-stalls.</p>
-
-<p>We will not go along Houndsditch, but turning sharply
-to the left from St. Buttolph's we pass through Aldgate.
-In doing so we immediately find ourselves in the midst of
-the remains of the great priory of Holy Trinity. The
-road leads southward into Fenchurch Street, branching off
-on the west into Leadenhall Street. At the junction of
-these streets stood the hospitium of the priory. Between
-Leadenhall Street and the city wall, from Aldgate nearly
-up to St. Andrew Undershaft, lies the ground-plan of
-the establishment of the Canons Regular, known as
-Christchurch, or the priory of Holy Trinity, the grandest
-of all the monastic institutions in Middlesex except
-Westminster. The heads of the establishment were
-aldermen of the City of London, representing the Portsoken
-Ward.</p>
-
-<div class="blockquot">
-
-<p>"These priors have sitten and ridden amongst the aldermen of
-London, in livery like unto them, saving that his habit was in shape of a
-spiritual person, as I, myself, have seen in my childhood; at which
-time the prior kept a most bountiful house of meat and drink, both
-for rich and poor, as well within the house as at the gates, to all
-comers, according to their estates" (Stow).</p></div>
-
-<p>In 1531 the King took possession of Christchurch;
-the canons were sent to other houses of the same order—St.
-Bartholomew the Great, Smithfield; St. Mary Overies,
-Southwark; and St. Mary Spital—"and the priory, with
-the appurtenances, King Henry gave to Sir Thomas
-Audley, newly knighted, and after made Lord Chancellor"
-(Stow). So extensive and so solid was the mass of building
-that Audley was at a loss to get the space cleared for the
-new house he wished to build here. He offered the great
-church of the priory to any one who would take it down
-and cart away the materials. But as this offer met with no
-response, Audley had to undertake the destruction himself.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">{40}</a></span>
-Stow could remember how the workmen employed on this
-work, "with great labour, beginning at the top"—the
-tower had pinnacles at each corner like the towers at
-St. Saviour's and St. Sepulchre's—"loosed stone from stone,
-and threw them down, whereby the most part of them were
-broken, and few remained whole; and those were sold very
-cheap, for all the buildings then made about the city were
-of brick and timber. At that time any man in the city
-might have a cart-load of hard stone for paving brought to
-his door for sixpence or sevenpence, with the carriage."
-Thus, in place of the priory and its noble church, was built
-the residence of Thomas, Lord Audley, and here he lived
-till his death in 1544. By marriage of his only daughter
-and heiress, the house passed into the possession of
-Thomas Howard, Duke of Norfolk, and was then called
-Duke's Place.</p>
-
-<p>Turning our backs upon Duke's Place and continuing a
-little further along the way by which Stow used to fetch
-the milk from the farm at the Minories to his father's
-house on Cornhill, we come to Leadenhall, a great building
-which served as a public granary in ancient times, and
-later as the chief market hall of the city. Leaving aside
-all the particulars of its history which Stow gives, let us
-note what he tells us from his own recollections:</p>
-
-<div class="blockquot">
-
-<p>"The use of Leadenhall in my youth was thus:—In a part of the
-north quadrant, on the east side of the north gate, were the common
-beams for weighing of wool and other wares, as had been accustomed;
-on the west side the gate were the scales to weigh meal; the other
-three sides were reserved, for the most part, to the making and resting
-of the pageants showed at Midsummer in the watch; the remnant of
-the sides and quadrants was employed for the stowage of wool sacks,
-but not closed up; the lofts above were partly used by the painters in
-working for the decking of pageants and other devices, for beautifying of
-the watch and watchmen; the residue of the lofts were letten out to
-merchants, the wool winders and packers therein to wind and pack their
-wools. And thus much for Leadenhall may suffice."</p></div>
-
-<p>The celebration of the Nativity of St. John and the
-civic pageantry of Midsummer Eve belonged to the past;<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">{41}</a></span>
-but Stow could remember the assembly of the citizens
-arrayed in parti-coloured vestments of red and white
-over their armour, their lances coloured and decorated
-to distinguish the various wards they represented, their
-torches borne in cressets on long poles. He could
-remember the processions as they passed the bonfires
-which burned in the open spaces of the city thoroughfares,
-and the throng of faces at the open windows and
-casements as they appeared in the fitful glare. The
-pageantry had disappeared with the suppression of the
-religious houses; but the military organization was merely
-changed. The musters of the city soldiers when they
-were reviewed by Queen Elizabeth at the coming of
-the Armada was a recent memory.</p>
-
-<p>And so we turn into Bishopsgate Street again, and
-walk along to Crosby Hall, the ancient palace of
-Richard III. In the middle of the roadway, opposite the
-junction of Threadneedle Street with Bishopsgate Street,
-stands a well, with a windlass, which probably existed
-here before the conduit was made near the gateway in
-the time of Henry VIII. We enter the precinct of
-St. Helen's: the wall of Crosby's great chamber is on our
-right hand; before us is the church of the nunnery. The
-spirit of the place is upon us. The barriers of time are
-removed; past and present mingle in the current of our
-meditation. Lo! one bids us a courteous farewell: it is
-Master Stow, our cicerone, who goes away in the direction
-of St. Andrew Undershaft. The presence of another
-influence continues to be felt. We enter the dim church,
-and shadows of kneeling nuns seem to hover in the
-twilight of the northern nave. Invisible fingers touch the
-organ-keys; the strains of evensong arise from the choir.
-Our reverie is broken, an influence recedes from us. But
-turning our eyes towards the painted picture of Shakespeare
-which fills the memorial window in this ancient
-church, we join in the hymn of praise and thanksgiving.</p>
-
-<hr class="tb" />
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">{42}</a></span></p>
-
-<p>What chiefly impressed the Elizabethan was the
-newness of London, and the rapidity with which its ancient
-features were being obliterated. John Stow felt it
-incumbent upon him to make a record of the ancient city
-before it was entirely swept away and forgotten. In what
-was new to him we find a similar interest.</p>
-
-<p>Through Bishopsgate northward lies Shoreditch. The
-old church which stood here in Elizabethan times has
-disappeared, but on the site stands another church with
-the same dedication, to St. Leonard. The sweet peal of
-the bells from the old belfry, so much appreciated by the
-Elizabethans, is to be heard no more; but the muniment
-chest of the modern church contains the old registers, in
-which we may read the names of Tarleton, Queen
-Elizabeth's famous jester, of Burbage, and the colony
-of players who lived in this parish, in the precinct
-of the dissolved priory of Holywell. The road from
-Shoreditch to the precinct still exists, known as Holywell
-Lane.</p>
-
-<p>The priory of St. John Baptist, called Holywell, a house
-of nuns, had been rebuilt, in the earlier period of the reign
-of Henry VIII., by Sir Thomas Lovel, K.G., of Lincoln's
-Inn. He endowed the priory with fair lands, extended
-the buildings, and added a large chapel. He also built
-considerably in Lincoln's Inn, including the fine old
-gateway in Chancery Lane, which still stands as one of the
-few remaining memorials of ancient London. Sir Thomas
-figures as one of the characters in Shakespeare's play of
-<i>Henry VIII.</i> When he died he was duly buried in the
-large chapel which he had added to Holywell Priory, in
-accordance with his design; but a few years later, in 1539,
-the priory was surrendered to the King and dissolved.
-Stow tells us that the church was pulled down—it is
-doubtful if Lovel's chapel was spared—and that many
-houses were built within the precinct "for the lodgings of
-noblemen, of strangers born, and others."<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">{43}</a></span></p>
-
-<p>In the first edition of his <i>Survey</i> Stow added:—</p>
-
-<div class="blockquot">
-
-<p>"And near thereunto are builded two publique houses for the acting
-and shewe of comedies, tragedies and histories, for recreation. Whereof
-one is called the Courtein, and the other the Theatre; both standing
-on the south west side towards the field."</p></div>
-
-<p>This passage was omitted from the second edition
-of the book published in 1603; but the whole extensive
-history of these playhouses, which was won from
-oblivion by the research of J. O. Halliwell-Phillipps,
-proceeded from this brief testimony of Stow.</p>
-
-
-<p>Against the background of the ancient priory this
-precinct of Holywell presented a perfect picture of the
-new conditions which constituted what was distinctively
-Elizabethan London. It comprehended the conditions of
-freedom required by the new life. Outside the jurisdiction
-of the city, but within the protection of the justices of
-Middlesex; lying open to the common fields of Finsbury,
-where archery and other sports were daily practised; its
-two playhouses affording varied entertainment in fencing
-matches, wrestling matches, and other "sports, shows, and
-pastimes," besides stage-plays performed by the various
-acting companies which visited them; this precinct of
-Holywell presented a microcosm of Elizabethan London
-society. The attraction of the plays brought visitors
-from all parts of the city. On the days when dramatic
-performances were to be given flags were hoisted in the
-morning over the playhouses; and after the early midday
-dinner the stream of playgoers began to flow from the
-gates. On horseback and on foot, over the fields from
-Cripplegate and Moorgate, or along the road from
-Bishopsgate, came men and women, citizens and gallants,
-visitors from the country, adventurers and pickpockets.
-All classes and conditions mingled in the Theatre or
-the Curtain, in the "common playhouses," as they were
-called, which only came into existence in 1576, after
-the players had been banished from the city. It was
-all delightfully new and modern; the buildings were<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">{44}</a></span>
-gorgeously decorated; the apparel of the players was
-rich and dazzling; the music was enthralling; the play
-was a magic dream.</p>
-
-<p>Some of the plays of Marlowe were performed at these
-Holywell theatres; and in 1596 a play by the new poet,
-William Shakespeare, called <i>Romeo and Juliet</i>, was
-produced at the Curtain, and caused a great sensation in
-Elizabethan London. The famous balcony scene of this
-play was cleverly adapted to the orchestra gallery above
-the stage. The stage itself projected into the arena, and
-the "groundlings" stood around it. Above were three
-tiers of seated galleries, and near the stage were "lords'
-rooms," the precursors of the private boxes of a later
-time.</p>
-
-<hr class="tb" />
-
-<p>After the Theatre and Curtain had become a feature
-of Elizabethan London at Shoreditch, other playhouses
-came into existence on the other side of the river; first
-at Newington, outside the jurisdiction of the city, in
-conditions corresponding to those of Shoreditch. For
-the sports and pastimes of Finsbury Fields, in the
-neighbourhood of the playhouses, there were the sports
-and pastimes of St. George's Fields in the neighbourhood
-of the Newington Theatre. Playgoers from the city took
-boat to Paris Garden stairs and witnessed the bear-baiting
-on Bankside, or proceeded by road on horseback or on
-foot to St. George's Fields and Newington; or they went
-thither over the bridge all the way by road, walking or
-riding. The use of coaches was very limited, owing to
-the narrow roads and imperfect paving of Elizabethan
-London.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img src="images/image_012.jpg" width="416" height="600" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><p class='center'><span class="smcap">Shooting Match by the London Archers in the Year 1583.</span></p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p>At Newington the proprietor and manager of the
-playhouse was Philip Henslowe, whose diary is the chief
-source of what information we have concerning the earlier
-period of Elizabethan drama. He was a man of business
-instinct, who conducted his dramatic enterprise on purely<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">{45}</a></span>
-commercial lines. In 1584 he secured the lease of a house
-and two gardens on Bankside, and here, in the "liberty"
-of the Bishop of Winchester, nearer to the city but
-outside the civic jurisdiction, he erected his playhouse,
-called the Rose, in 1591. Henslowe thus brought the
-drama nearer to the city than it had been since the edict
-of 1575 abolished the common stages which until then had
-been set up in inn yards or other convenient places in the
-city. The flag of the playhouse could be seen across
-the river; and from all points came the tide of playgoers,
-whose custom was a harvest to Henslowe and the Thames
-watermen.</p>
-
-<p>Midway between these two points of theatrical
-attraction—Holywell, Shoreditch on the north, and
-Newington and Bankside on the south—Shakespeare
-lodged in the precinct of St. Helen's, Bishopsgate. The
-company of players with whom he had become finally
-associated was that of the Lord Chamberlain. They
-derived their profits from three sources—from
-performances at court, from theatrical tours, and from
-performances at the Theatre and the Curtain. The
-Theatre was the property of the family of James
-Burbage, who had built it in 1576—his son Richard
-Burbage, the famous actor, and others. The
-interest of the proprietors may have suffered from
-Henslowe's enterprise in setting up a playhouse on
-Bankside; and they were in dispute with the ground
-landlord of their playhouse in regard to the renewal of
-their lease. In these circumstances the Burbages, with
-the co-operation of other members of the company, secured
-a site in the Winchester Liberty on Bankside, not far
-from the Rose but nearer the Bridge. They then took
-down their building in Holywell, vacated the land, and
-re-erected the playhouse on the other side of the river.
-Those who participated in this enterprise became "sharers,"
-or partners, in the new playhouse. Shakespeare was one
-of these, and the name by which it was called—the Globe—was<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">{46}</a></span>
-symbolical of the genius which reached its maturity
-in plays presented in this theatre during the closing years
-of the reign of Elizabeth and the first decade of the reign
-of her successor. "Totus mundus agit histrionem" was
-the inscription over the portal of the Globe. "All the
-world's a stage," said Shakespeare's Jaques in <i>As You
-Like It</i>. The life of Elizabethan London found its
-ultimate expression in that playhouse, which became
-celebrated then as "the glory of the Bank," and now is
-famous in all parts of the world where the glory of
-English literature is cherished.</p>
-
-<hr class="tb" />
-
-<p>There were many reminiscences of medival times on
-the Surrey side. At Bermondsey were to be seen the
-extensive remains of the great abbey of St. Saviour. After
-the Dissolution its name became transferred to the church
-near the end of London Bridge, formerly known as
-St. Mary Overies, the splendid fane which in our time
-has worthily become the cathedral of Southwark. Between
-this church and the church of St. George were many inns,
-among them the Tabard, where travellers to and from
-Canterbury and Dover, or Winchester and Southampton,
-introduced an element of novelty, change, and bustle;
-where plays were performed in the inn yards before the
-playhouses were built on Bankside. At the end of
-Bankside, looking towards the church of St. Saviour, stood
-Winchester House, the London residence of the Bishop of
-Winchester since the twelfth century. Here Cardinal
-Beaufort and Stephen Gardiner, Bishop of Winchester,
-had lived in great state. The site, including the park,
-which extended parallel with the river as far as Paris
-Garden, was formerly the property of the priory of
-Bermondsey. This area was under the separate
-jurisdiction of the Bishops of Winchester, and was called
-their "Liberty." Here, in the early years of Queen
-Elizabeth, were two amphitheatres—one for bull-baiting,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">{47}</a></span>
-the other for bear-baiting. There were also ponds for
-fish, called the Pike Ponds.<a name="FNanchor_4_4" id="FNanchor_4_4"></a><a href="#Footnote_4_4" class="fnanchor">[4]</a> The great Camden records
-an anecdote of these ponds or stews, "which are here to
-feed Pikes and Tenches fat, and to scour them from the
-strong and muddy fennish taste." All classes delighted
-in the cruel sport of bear-baiting on the Bankside:
-ambassadors and distinguished foreigners were always
-conducted to these performances; on special occasions
-the Queen had them at the palace.</p>
-
-<p>In 1583 one of the amphitheatres fell down, and when
-re-erected it was built on the model of the playhouses.<a name="FNanchor_5_5" id="FNanchor_5_5"></a><a href="#Footnote_5_5" class="fnanchor">[5]</a>
-It then became known as the Bear Garden; the bull-baiting
-amphitheatre dropped out of existence; perhaps it was
-reconstructed by Henslowe as his Rose theatre. The
-point is not of much importance, except as regards the
-evolution of the playhouse.</p>
-
-<p>The second playhouse built on the Surrey side after the
-Rose was the Swan, opened in 1596. This was erected on
-a site in the manor of Paris Garden, separated only by a
-road from the Liberty of Winchester. The playhouse
-was in a line with the landing-stairs, opposite Blackfriars.</p>
-
-<p>After the Globe playhouse was built in 1599, the other
-playhouses—Henslowe's Rose and Langley's Swan—ceased
-to flourish. Here the outward facts corresponded
-with the inward: a lovely flower had opened into bloom
-on the Bankside; what was unnecessary to its support
-drooped earthward like a sheath.</p>
-
-<hr class="tb" />
-
-<p>Opposite Paris Garden, across the river, was
-Blackfriars; and here the change from the ancient order
-to what was distinctively Elizabethan London was most
-manifest. The ancient monastery had existed here from
-1276, when the Dominican or Black Friars moved hither<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">{48}</a></span>
-from Holborn, until 1538, when the establishment was
-surrendered to King Henry VIII. It possessed a
-magnificent church, a vast palatial hall, and cloisters.
-Edward VI. had granted the whole precinct, with its
-buildings, to Sir Thomas Cawarden, the Master of the
-Revels. It became an aristocratic residential quarter; and
-in the earlier period of Queen Elizabeth's reign plays
-were performed here, probably in the ancient hall of the
-monastery, by the children of Her Majesty's chapel and
-the choir-boys of St. Paul's. At a later period—viz., in
-1596—James Burbage, who built the theatre in Shoreditch,
-built a new playhouse in the precinct, or more probably
-adapted an existing building—the hall or part of the
-church—to serve the purpose of dramatic representation.
-This playhouse, consequently, was not open to the weather
-at the top like the common playhouses, and it was
-distinguished as the "private" theatre at Blackfriars.</p>
-
-<p>The west wall of the precinct was built along the bank
-of the Fleet river. Across the river opposite was the royal
-palace of Bridewell, which Edward VI. had given to the
-city of London to be a workhouse for the poor and a
-house of correction. This contiguity of a house for the
-poor and the remains of a monastery suggests a reflection
-on the social problem of Elizabethan London.</p>
-
-<p>Before the Reformation the religious houses were the
-agencies for the relief of the poor, the sick, the afflicted.
-The unemployed were assisted with lodging and food on
-their way as they journeyed in search of a market for
-their labour, paying for their entertainment at the religious
-houses by work either on the roads in the neighbourhood
-or on the buildings or in the gardens and fields, according
-to their trades and skill. It would seem that King Henry
-did not realise the importance and extent of this
-feature in the social economy, because, after he had
-suppressed the religious establishments, he complained
-very reproachfully of the number of masterless men and
-rogues that were everywhere to be found, especially about<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">{49}</a></span>
-London. The good Bishop Ridley, in an eloquent appeal
-addressed to William Cecil, represented the poor and sick
-and starving in the streets of London in the person of
-Christ, beseeching the king to succour the poor and
-suffering Christ in the streets of London by bestowing his
-palace of Bridewell to be a home for the homeless, the
-starving, and the sick, where erring ones could be corrected
-and the good sustained. The good young monarch
-granted the bishop's request, and Bridewell Hospital was
-thus founded to do the social work in which Blackfriars
-monastery on the other side of the Fleet river had formerly
-borne its share. But single efforts of this kind were quite
-unequal to cope with the social difficulty; and early in
-the reign of Elizabeth the first Poor Law was passed and
-a system of relief came into operation.</p>
-
-<p>To meet the difficulty of unemployment, it was part
-of the policy of Queen Elizabeth's Government to
-encourage new industries, whether due to invention and
-discovery or to knowledge gained by visiting foreign
-countries to learn new processes and manufactures; the
-inventor or the introducer of the novelty was rewarded
-with a monopoly, and he received a licence "to take up
-workmen" to be taught the methods of the new industry.
-One of the manufactures which had been thus stimulated
-was glass-making; and in the precinct of Blackfriars was
-a famous glass-house or factory, a reminiscence of which
-still exists in the name Glasshouse Yard. It has been
-shown how the crafts and trades of Elizabethan London
-gravitated to separate areas: Blackfriars precinct was
-famous as the abode of artists; one may hazard the guess
-that some of the portraits of Elizabethan and Jacobean
-players in the Dulwich Gallery may have been painted
-here. In the reign of Charles I. Vandyke had his studio
-in Blackfriars, where the king paid him a visit to see
-his pictures. The precinct was famous also as the abode
-of glovers; and in the reigns of James and Charles it
-became a notorious stronghold of Puritans. The existing<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">{50}</a></span>
-name of Playhouse Yard, at the back of <i>The Times</i>
-newspaper office, affords some indication of the site of
-the theatre; and the name Cloister Court is the sole
-remnant of the cloisters of Blackfriars monastery.</p>
-
-<p>The eastern boundary of the precinct was St. Andrew's
-Hill, which still exists. On the site of the present church
-of St. Andrew in the Wardrobe stood a church of the
-same dedication in Elizabethan London. Stow wrote of
-"the parish church of St. Andrew in the Wardrobe, a
-proper church, but few monuments hath it." Near the
-church (the site being indicated by the existing court called
-the Wardrobe) was a building of State, which Stow calls
-"the King's Great Wardrobe." The Elizabethan use of
-the Wardrobe is described by Stow thus: "In this house
-of late years is lodged Sir John Fortescue, knight, master
-of the wardrobe, chancellor and under-treasurer of the
-exchequer, and one of her majesty's most honorable privy
-Council."</p>
-
-<p>Near the top of St. Andrew's Hill and within the
-precinct of Blackfriars was a house which Shakespeare
-purchased in 1613. It is described in the extant
-Deed of Conveyance as "now or late being in the
-tenure or occupation of one William Ireland ...
-abutting upon a street leading down to Puddle Wharf on
-the east part, right against the Kinges Majesties
-Wardrobe." Curiously enough, the name of this occupier
-survives in the existing Ireland Yard.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img src="images/image_013.jpg" width="50" height="47" alt="" />
-</div>
-
-
-<h3>ENVOY</h3>
-
-
-<p>The omissions in this imperfect sketch of Elizabethan
-London are many and obvious. The design has been to
-show the tangible setting of a jewel rather than the jewel
-itself; the outward conditions in which the life of a new
-age was manifested. The background of destruction has<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">{51}</a></span>
-been inevitably emphasised; but in Elizabethan London
-historic memorials existed on every hand. Nothing has
-been said of Baynard's Castle, its Norman walls rising
-from the margin of the river to the south of Blackfriars,
-or of St Bartholomew the Great, or the Charterhouse, or
-St. Giles's, Cripplegate; although an account of them
-would have completed the outer ring of our perambulation
-of the London described by Stow. The whole region
-westward—Holborn, Fleet Street, the Strand, and
-Westminster—has been left for another occasion. Here
-and there, however, we have been able to glance at historic
-buildings which had survived from earlier ages to
-witness the changes in London after the Reformation.
-It was those changes that led to the making of the
-playhouse and brought the conditions which enfolded
-the possibility realised in Shakespeare. This has been
-the point of view in the foregoing pages. A study of
-characteristics rather than a detailed account has been
-offered for the consideration of the reader.</p></div>
-
-
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">{52}</a></span></p>
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-<div class="chapter">
-<h2><a name="PEPYSS_LONDON" id="PEPYSS_LONDON">PEPYS'S LONDON</a></h2>
-
-<p class='p3'><span class="smcap">By Henry B. Wheatley, F.S.A.</span></p>
-
-
-<div>
-<img class="drop-cap" src="images/drop-t.png" width="100" height="118" alt="" />
-</div>
-
-<p class="drop-cap">The growth of population in London was almost
-stationary for many centuries; as, owing to the
-generally unhealthy condition of ancient cities,
-the births seldom exceeded the deaths, and in the
-case of frequent pestilences the deaths actually exceeded
-the births. Thus during its early history the walls of
-London easily contained its inhabitants, although at
-all times in its history London will be found to have
-taken a higher rank for healthy sanitary conditions than
-most of its continental contemporaries. In the later
-Middle Ages the city overflowed its borders, and
-its liberties were recognized and marked by Bars.
-Subsequently nothing was done to bring the further
-out-growths of London proper within the fold, and in
-Tudor times we first hear of the suburbs as disreputable
-quarters, a condemnation which was doubtless just, as
-the inhabitants mostly consisted of those who were glad
-to escape the restrictions of life within the city walls.</p>
-
-<p>The first great exodus westwards of the more
-aristocratic inhabitants of London took place in the
-reigns of James I. and Charles I.—first to Lincoln's Inn
-Fields and its neighbourhood, and then to Covent
-Garden, and both these suburbs were laid out by Inigo
-Jones, the greatest architect of beautiful street fronts
-that England has ever produced. It is an eternal
-disgrace to Londoners that so many of his noble buildings
-in Lincoln's Inn Fields have been destroyed. The period
-of construction of these districts is marked by the names<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">{53}</a></span>
-of Henrietta and King Streets in Covent Garden, and
-Great Queen Street, Lincoln's Inn Fields.</p>
-
-<p>After the Restoration modern London was founded.
-During the Commonwealth there had been a considerable
-stagnation in the movement of the population, and when
-the Royalists returned to England from abroad they
-found their family mansions in the city unfitted for their
-habitation, and in consequence established themselves in
-what is now the city of Westminster. Henry Jermyn,
-first Earl of St. Albans, began to provide houses for
-some of them in St. James's Square, and buildings in the
-district around were rapidly proceeded with.</p>
-
-<p>We have a faithful representation of London, as it
-appeared at the end of the Commonwealth period, in
-Newcourt and Faithorne's valuable Plan of London, dated
-1658. A long growth of houses north of the Thames is
-seen stretching from the Tower to the neighbourhood of
-Westminster Abbey. Islington is found at the extreme
-north of the plan unconnected with the streets of the
-town, Hoxton connected with the city by Shoreditch,
-Bethnal Green almost alone, and Stepney at the extreme
-north-east. South of the Thames there are a few streets
-close to the river, and a small out-growth from London
-Bridge along the great southern road containing Southwark
-and Bermondsey. There is little at Lambeth but
-the Archbishop's Palace and the great marsh.</p>
-
-<p>On this plan we see what was the condition of the
-Haymarket and Piccadilly before the Restoration. This
-was soon to be changed, for between the years 1664 and
-1668 were erected three great mansions in the "Road to
-Reading" (now Piccadilly), viz., Clarendon House (where
-Bond and Albemarle Streets now stand), Berkeley House
-(on the site now occupied by Devonshire House), and
-Burlington House. Piccadilly was the original name of
-the district after which Piccadilly Hall was called. The
-latter place was situated at the north-east corner of the
-Haymarket, nearly opposite to Panton Square, and close<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">{54}</a></span>
-by Panton Street, named after Colonel Thomas Panton,
-the notorious gamester, who purchased Piccadilly Hall
-from Mrs. Baker, the widow of the original owner.</p>
-
-<p>There is much to be said in favour of associating
-the name of some well-known man with the London
-of his time, and thus showing how his descriptions
-illustrate the chief historical events of his time, with
-many of which he may have been connected. In the
-case of Samuel Pepys, we can see with his eyes
-many of the incidents of the early years of the
-Restoration period, and thus gain an insight into the
-inner life of the times. Pepys lived through some of
-the greatest changes that have passed over London, and
-in alluding to some of these we may quote his remarks
-with advantage. His friend, John Evelyn, also refers to
-many of the same events, and may also be quoted, more
-particularly as he was specially engaged at different
-periods of his life in improving several parts of London.</p>
-
-<p>We are truly fortunate in having two such admirable
-diarists at hand to help us to a proper understanding of
-the course of events and of the changes that took place
-in London during their long lives.</p>
-
-<p>When Pepys commenced his <i>Diary</i> on January 1st,
-1660, we find him living in a small house in Axe Yard,
-Westminster, a place which derived its name from a
-brewhouse on the west side of King Street, called "The
-Axe." He was then clerk to Mr. (afterwards Sir George)
-Downing, one of the Four Tellers of the Receipt of the
-Exchequer, from whom Downing Street obtained its
-name. Pepys was in the receipt of 50 a year, and his
-household was not a large one, for it consisted of
-himself, his wife, and his servant Jane. He let the
-greater part of the house, and his family lived in the
-garrets. About 1767 Axe Yard was swept away, and
-Fludyer Street arose on its site, named after Sir Samuel
-Fludyer, who was Lord Mayor in 1761. Nearly a century
-afterwards (1864-65) this street also was swept away<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">{55}</a></span>
-(with others) to make room for the Government offices,
-consisting of the India, Foreign and Colonial Offices,
-etc., so that all trace of Pepys's residence has now
-completely passed away.</p>
-
-<p>Macaulay, in the famous third chapter of his History,
-where he gives a brilliant picture of the state of England
-in 1685, and clearly describes London under the later
-Stuarts, writes: "Each of the two cities which made up
-the capital of England had its own centre of attraction."
-We may take this sentence as our text, and try to illustrate
-it by some notices of London life in the city and at
-the Court end of town. The two extremes were equally
-familiar to Pepys, and both were seen by him almost
-daily when he stepped into his boat by the Tower and
-out of it again at Westminster.</p>
-
-<p>To take the court life first, let us begin with the entry
-of the King into London on his birthday (May 29th, 1660).
-The enthusiastic reception of Charles II. is a commonplace
-of history, and from the Tower to Whitehall joy
-was exhibited by all that thronged the streets. Evelyn
-was spectator of the scene, which he describes in his
-<i>Diary</i>:—</p>
-
-<div class="blockquot">
-
-<p>"May 29th. This day his Majestie Charles the Second came to
-London after a sad and long exile and calamitous suffering both of the
-King and Church, being 17 yeares. This was also his birthday, and with
-a triumph of above 20,000 horse and foote, brandishing their swords and
-shouting with inexpressible joy; the wayes strew'd with flowers, the bells
-ringing, the streetes hung with tapissry, fountaines running with wine;
-the Maior, Aldermen and all the Companies in their liveries, chaines of
-gold and banners; Lords and nobles clad in cloth of silver, gold and
-velvet; the windowes and balconies all set with ladies; trumpets, music
-and myriads of people flocking, even so far as Rochester, so as they
-were seven houres in passing the citty, even from 2 in y<sup>e</sup> afternoon till
-9 at night.</p>
-
-<p>"I stood in the Strand and beheld it, and bless'd God. And all this
-was done without one drop of blood shed, and by that very army which
-rebell'd against him; but it was y<sup>e</sup> Lord's doing, for such a restauration
-was never mention'd in any history antient or modern, since the returne
-of the Jews from the Babylonish captivity; nor so joyfull a day and so
-bright ever seene in this nation, this hapning when to expect or effect
-it was past all human policy."<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">{56}</a></span></p></div>
-
-<p>One of the brilliant companies of young and
-comely men in white doublets who took part in the
-procession was led by Simon Wadlow, the vintner and
-host of the "Devil" tavern. This was the son of Ben
-Jonson's Simon Wadlow, "Old Simon the King," who
-gave his name to Squire Western's favourite song. From
-Rugge's curious MS. <i>Diurnal</i> we learn how the young
-women of London were not behind the young men in the
-desire to join in the public rejoicings:—</p>
-
-<div class="blockquot">
-
-<p>"Divers maidens, in behalf of themselves and others, presented a
-petition to the Lord Mayor of London, wherein they pray his Lordship
-to grant them leave and liberty to meet his Majesty on the day of his
-passing through the city; and if their petition be granted that they will
-all be clad in white waistcoats and crimson petticoats, and other ornaments
-of triumph and rejoicing."</p></div>
-
-<p>Pepys was at sea at this time with Sir Edward
-Montagu, where the sailors had their own rejoicings and
-fired off three guns, but he enters in his <i>Diary</i>: "This
-day, it is thought, the King do enter the city of London."</p>
-
-<p>Charles, immediately on his arrival in London, settled
-himself in the Palace of Whitehall, which was his chief
-place of residence during the whole of his reign, but
-although he was very much at home in it, he felt keenly
-the inconveniences attending its situation by the river side,
-which caused it frequently to be flooded by high tides.</p>
-
-<p>The King alludes to this trouble in one of his
-amusingly chatty speeches to the House of Commons on
-March 1st, 1661-62, when arrangements were being made
-for the entry of Katharine of Braganza into London.
-He said:—</p>
-
-<div class="blockquot">
-
-<p>"The mention of my wife's arrival puts me in mind to desire you to
-put that compliment upon her, that her entrance into the town may be
-with more decency than the ways will now suffer it to be; and for that
-purpose, I pray you would quickly pass such laws as are before you, in
-order to the amending those ways, and that she may not find Whitehall
-surrounded by water."</p></div>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img src="images/image_015.jpg" width="600" height="319" alt="" />
-
-<p class="img_link"><a href="images/image_015_full.jpg">View larger version.</a></p>
-
-<div class="caption"><p class='center'><span class="smcap">A View of London as it appeared
-before the Great Fire.</span></p>
-
-<p class='center'><i>From an old print.</i></p></div>
-
-
-
-<div class="center">
-<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
-<tr><td align="right">1</td><td align="left">St. Paul's.</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="right">2</td><td align="left">St. Dunstan's.</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="right">3</td><td align="left">Temple.</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="right">4</td><td align="left">St. Bride's.</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="right">5</td><td align="left">St. Andrew's.</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="right">6</td><td align="left">Baynard's Castle.</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="right">7</td><td align="left">St. Sepulchre's.</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="right">8</td><td align="left">Bow Church.</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="right">9</td><td align="left">Guildhall.</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="right">10</td><td align="left">St. Michael's.</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="right">11</td><td align="left">St. Laurence, Poultney.</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="right">12</td><td align="left">Old Swan.</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="right">13</td><td align="left">London Bridge.</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="right">14</td><td align="left">St. Dunstan's East.</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="right">15</td><td align="left">Billingsgate.</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="right">16</td><td align="left">Custom House.</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="right">17</td><td align="left">Tower.</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="right">18</td><td align="left">Tower Wharf.</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="right">19</td><td align="left">St. Olave's.</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="right">20</td><td align="left">St. Saviour's.</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="right">21</td><td align="left">Winchester House.</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="right">22</td><td align="left">The Globe.</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="right">23</td><td align="left">The Bear Garden.</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="right">24</td><td align="left">Hampstead.</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="right">25</td><td align="left">Highgate.</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="right">26</td><td align="left">Hackney.</td></tr>
-</table></div></div>
-
-<p>In the following year we read in Pepys's <i>Diary</i> a
-piquant account of the putting out of Lady Castlemaine's<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">{57}</a></span>
-kitchen fire on a certain occasion when Charles was
-engaged to sup with her:—</p>
-
-<div class="blockquot">
-
-<p>"October 13th, 1663. My Lady Castlemaine, I hear, is in as great
-favour as ever, and the King supped with her the very first night he came
-from Bath: and last night and the night before supped with her; when
-there being a chine of beef to roast, and the tide rising into their kitchen
-that it could not be roasted there, and the cook telling her of it, she
-answered, 'Zounds! she must set the house on fire, but it should be
-roasted!' So it was carried to Mrs. Sarah's husband's, and there it
-was roasted."</p></div>
-
-<p>The last sentence requires an explanation. Mrs. Sarah
-was Lord Sandwich's housekeeper, and Pepys had found
-out in November, 1662, that she had just been married,
-and that her husband was a cook. We are not told his
-name or where he lived.</p>
-
-<p>Lord Dorset, in the famous song, "To all you ladies
-now on land," specially alludes to the periodical
-inundations at the Palace:—</p>
-
-<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
-<span class="i0">"The King, with wonder and surprise,<br /></span>
-<span class="i2">Will swear the seas grow bold;<br /></span>
-<span class="i0">Because the tides will higher rise<br /></span>
-<span class="i2">Than e'er they did of old;<br /></span>
-<span class="i0">But let him know it is our tears<br /></span>
-<span class="i0">Bring floods of grief to Whitehall stairs."<br /></span>
-</div></div>
-
-<p>Pepys was a constant visitor to Whitehall, and the Index
-to the <i>Diary</i> contains over three pages of references to
-his visits. He refers to Henry VIII.'s Gallery, the
-Boarded Gallery, the Matted Gallery, the Shield Gallery,
-and the Vane Room. Lilly, the astrologer, mentions the
-Guard Room. The Adam and Eve Gallery was so called
-from a picture by Mabuse, now at Hampton Court. In
-the Matted Gallery was a ceiling by Holbein, and on a
-wall in the Privy Chamber a painting of Henry VII. and
-Henry VIII., with their Queens, by the same artist, of
-which a copy in small is preserved at Hampton Court.
-On another wall was a "Dance of Death," also by
-Holbein, of which Douce has given a description; and
-in the bedchamber of Charles II. a representation by
-Joseph Wright of the King's birth, his right to his<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">{58}</a></span>
-dominions, and miraculous preservation, with the motto,
-<i>Terras Astra revisit</i>.</p>
-
-<p>All these rooms, and most of the lodgings of the many
-residents, royal and non-royal, were in the portion of
-the Palace situated on the river side of the road, now
-known as Whitehall. This road was shut in by two
-gates erected by Henry VIII. when he enlarged the
-borders of the Palace after he had taken it from
-Wolsey. The one at the Westminster end was called
-the King Street gate, and the other, at the north end,
-designed by Holbein, was called by his name, and also
-Whitehall or Cock-pit gate.</p>
-
-<p>It is necessary to remember that Whitehall extended
-into St. James's Park. The Tilt Yard, where many
-tournaments and pageants were held in the reigns of
-Henry VIII., Elizabeth, and James I., fronted the
-Banqueting House, and occupied what is now the Horse
-Guards' Parade. On the south side of the Tilt Yard was
-the Cockpit, where Monk, Duke of Albemarle, lived for a
-time. His name was given to a tavern in the Tilt Yard
-("The Monk's Head").</p>
-
-<p>On the north side was Spring Gardens, otherwise the
-King's Garden, but it subsequently became a place of
-public entertainment, and after the Restoration it was
-styled the Old Spring Garden; then the ground was
-built upon, and the entertainments removed to the New
-Spring Garden at Lambeth, afterwards called Vauxhall.</p>
-
-<p>The Cockpit was originally used for cock-fighting,
-but it cannot be definitely said when it ceased to be
-employed for this cruel sport. It was for a considerable
-time used as a royal theatre, and Malone wrote:—</p>
-
-<div class="blockquot">
-
-<p>"Neither Elizabeth, nor James I., nor Charles I., I believe, ever
-went to the public theatre, but they frequently ordered plays to be performed
-at Court, which were represented in the royal theatre called the
-Cockpit."</p></div>
-
-<p>Malone is probably incorrect in respect to Elizabeth's use
-of the Cockpit, for certainly cock-fighting was practised<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">{59}</a></span>
-here as late as 1607, as may be seen from the following
-entry in the State Papers:—</p>
-
-<div class="blockquot">
-
-<p>"Aug. 4th, 1607. Warrant to pay 100 marks per annum to William
-Gateacre for breeding, feeding, etc., the King's game cocks during the
-life of George Coliner, Cockmaster."<a name="FNanchor_6_6" id="FNanchor_6_6"></a><a href="#Footnote_6_6" class="fnanchor">[6]</a></p></div>
-
-<p>It is, of course, possible that the players and the cocks
-occupied the place contemporaneously.</p>
-
-<p>The lodgings at the Cockpit were occupied by some
-well-known men. Philip Herbert, Earl of Pembroke and
-Montgomery, saw Charles I. pass from St. James's to the
-scaffold at the Banqueting House from one of his
-windows, and he died in these apartments on January
-23rd, 1650. Oliver Cromwell, when Lord-Lieutenant of
-Ireland, was given, by order of Parliament, "the use of
-the lodgings called the Cockpit, of the Spring Garden
-and St. James's House, and the command of St. James's
-Park," and when Protector, and in possession of
-Whitehall Palace, he still retained the Cockpit. When
-in 1657 he relaxed some of the prohibitions against
-the Theatre, he used the Cockpit stage occasionally for
-instrumental and vocal music.</p>
-
-<p>A little before the Restoration the apartments were
-assigned to General Monk, and Charles II. confirmed the
-arrangement. Here he died, as Duke of Albemarle, on
-January 3rd, 1670. In 1673 George Villiers, second
-Duke of Buckingham, became a resident, and at the
-Revolution of 1688 the Princess Anne was living here.</p>
-
-<p>There has been some confusion in respect to the
-references to the Cockpit in Pepys's <i>Diary</i>, as two distinct
-theatres are referred to under this name. The references
-before November, 1660, are to the performances of the
-Duke's Company at the Cockpit in Drury Lane. Here
-Pepys saw the "Loyal Subject," "Othello," "Wit without
-Money," and "The Woman's Prize or Tamer Tamed."
-The subsequent passages in which the Cockpit is referred
-to apply to the royal theatre attached to Whitehall<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">{60}</a></span>
-Palace. Here Pepys saw "The Cardinal," "Claricilla,"
-"Humorous Lieutenant," "Scornful Lady," and the
-"Valiant Cid." It is useful to remember that the
-performances at Whitehall were in the evening, and
-those at the public theatre in the afternoon.</p>
-
-<p>The buildings of the Old Whitefriars Palace by the
-river side were irregular and unimposing outside, although
-they were handsome inside. The grand scheme of Inigo
-Jones for rebuilding initiated by James I., and
-occasionally entertained by Charles I. and II. and
-William III., came to nothing, but the noble Banqueting
-House remains to show what might have been.</p>
-
-<p>The Rev. Dr. Sheppard, in his valuable work on <i>The
-Old Palace of Whitehall</i> (1902), refers to Grinling
-Gibbons's statue of James II., which for many years stood
-in the Privy Garden, and is one of the very few good
-statues in London. He refers to the temporary removal
-of the statue to the front of Gwydyr House, and writes:
-"Since the statue has been removed to its present position
-an inscription (there was none originally) has been placed
-on its stone pedestal. It runs as follows:—</p>
-
-<p class='center'>
-JACOBUS SECUNDUS<br />
-DEI GRATIA ANGLI SCOTI FRANCI<br />
-ET HIBERNI REX.<br />
-FIDEI DEFENSOR. ANNO MDCLXXXVI."<br />
-</p>
-
-<p>This, however, is a mistake, and the inscription runs
-as follows:—</p>
-
-<p class='center'>
-JACOBUS SECUNDUS<br />
-DEI GRATI<br />
-ANGLI SCOTI<br />
-FRANCI ET<br />
-HIBERNI<br />
-REX<br />
-FIDEI DEFENSOR<br />
-ANNO MDCLXXXVI<br />
-</p>
-
-<p>in capitals, and without any stops.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">{61}</a></span></p>
-
-<p>The present writer remembers well being taken as
-a little boy to read the inscription and find out the
-error in the Latin. The statue has since been removed
-to the front of the new buildings of the Admiralty
-between the Horse Guards' Parade and Spring
-Gardens, a very appropriate position for a Lord High
-Admiral. I am happy to see that the inscription has
-not been altered, and the incorrect "Dei grati"
-appears as in my youth.</p>
-
-<p>James Duke of York, after the Restoration, occupied
-apartments in St. James's Palace, and his Secretary of
-the Admiralty, Sir William Coventry, had lodgings
-conveniently near him. The Duke sometimes moved
-from one palace to the other, as his father, Charles I.,
-had done before him. Henrietta Maria took a fancy to
-the place, and most of their children were born at
-St. James's, the Duke being one of these.</p>
-
-<p>James's changes of residence are recorded in Pepys's
-<i>Diary</i> as follows:—</p>
-
-<div class="blockquot">
-
-<p>"Jan. 23rd, 1664-65. Up and with Sir W. Batten and Sir W. Pen
-to White Hall; but there finding the Duke gone to his lodgings at
-St. James's for alltogether, his Duchesse being ready to lie in, we to him
-and there did our usual business."</p>
-
-<p>"May 3rd, 1667. Up and with Sir J. Minnes, W. Batten and W. Pen
-in the last man's coach to St. James's, and thence up to the Duke of
-York's chamber, which as it is now fretted at the top, and the chimney-piece
-made handsome, is one of the noblest and best-proportioned rooms
-that ever, I think, I saw in my life."</p>
-
-<p>"May 20th, 1668. Up and with Colonell Middleton in a new coach
-he hath made him, very handsome, to White Hall, where the Duke
-of York having removed his lodgings for this year to St. James's we
-walked thither; and there find the Duke of York coming to White Hall,
-and so back to the Council Chamber, where the Committee of the
-Navy sat."</p></div>
-
-<p>In November, 1667, James fell ill of the smallpox in
-St. James's Palace, when the gallery doors were locked
-up. On March 31st, 1671, Anne Duchess of York, the
-daughter of Clarendon, died here. The Princess Mary
-was married to William Prince of Orange in November,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">{62}</a></span>
-1677, at eleven o'clock at night, in the Chapel Royal,
-and on July 28th, 1683, Princess Anne to Prince George
-of Denmark, when the pair took up their residence at
-St. James's.</p>
-
-<p>When James came to the crown he went to live at
-Whitehall Palace, but he frequently stayed at St. James's.
-On June 9th, 1688, Queen Mary of Modena was taken to
-the latter place, and on the following day James Francis
-Edward, afterwards known as "The Pretender," was born
-in the Old Bedchamber. This room was situated at the
-east end of the south front. It had three doors, one
-leading to a private staircase at the head of the bed, and
-two windows opposite the bed.<a name="FNanchor_7_7" id="FNanchor_7_7"></a><a href="#Footnote_7_7" class="fnanchor">[7]</a></p>
-
-<p>The room was pulled down previous to the alterations
-made in the year 1822.</p>
-
-<p>The anecdote of Charles II. and the chaplains of the
-Chapel Royal is often quoted, but it is worth repeating,
-as it shows the ready wit of the great preacher, Dr. South.
-A daily dinner was prepared at the Palace for the
-chaplains, and one day the King notified his intention
-of dining with them. There had been some talk of
-abolishing this practice, and South seized the opportunity
-of saying grace to do his best in opposition to the
-suggestion; so, instead of the regular formula, which was
-"God save the King and bless the dinner," said "God
-bless the King and save the dinner." Charles at once
-cried out, "And it shall be saved."</p>
-
-<p>The Duke of York and the King were fond of
-wandering about the park at all hours, and as Charles
-often walked by himself, even as far as the then secluded
-Constitution Hill, James having expressed fears for his
-safety, the elder brother made the memorable reply:
-"No kind of danger, James, for I am sure no man in
-England will take away my life to make you king."<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">{63}</a></span></p>
-
-<p>Pepys tells us on March 16th, 1661-2, that while he
-was walking in the park he met the King and Duke
-coming "to see their fowl play."</p>
-
-<p>Cosmo III., Grand Duke of Tuscany (then Hereditary
-Prince), made a "Tour through England" in 1669, and it
-will be remembered that Macaulay found the account of
-his travels a valuable help towards obtaining a picture
-of the state of England in the middle of the seventeenth
-century. Cosmo thus describes St. James's Park:—</p>
-
-<div class="blockquot">
-
-<p>"A large park enclosed on every side by a wall, and containing a
-long, straight, and spacious walk, intended for the amusement of the
-Mall, on each side of which grow large elms whose shade render the
-promenade in that place in summer infinitely pleasant and agreeable;
-close to it is a canal of nearly the same length, on which are several
-species of aquatic birds, brought up and rendered domestic—the work of
-the Protector Cromwell; the rest of the park is left uncultivated, and
-forms a wood for the retreat of deer and other quadrupeds."</p></div>
-
-<p>His Highness was not quite correct in giving the
-credit of the collection of wild-fowl to Cromwell, as the
-water-fowl appear to have been kept in the park from the
-reign of Elizabeth, and the ponds were replenished after
-the Restoration.</p>
-
-<p>Evelyn gives a long account in his <i>Diary</i> of the
-zoological collections (February 9th, 1664-65). He says:</p>
-
-<div class="blockquot">
-
-<p>"The parke was at this time stored with numerous flocks of severall
-sorts of ordinary and extraordinary wild fowle, breeding about the
-Decoy, which for being neere so greate a citty, and among such a
-concourse of souldiers and people, is a singular and diverting thing.
-There were also deere of several countries, white; spotted like leopards;
-antelopes, an elk, red deere, roebucks, staggs, guinea goates, Arabian
-sheepe, etc. There were withy pots or nests for the wild fowle to lay
-their eggs in, a little above y<sup>e</sup> surface of y<sup>e</sup> water."</p></div>
-
-<p>Charles II. was a saunterer by nature, and he appears
-to have been quite happy in the park either chatting with
-Nell Gwyn, at the end of the garden of her Pall Mall
-house, in feeding the fowl, or in playing the game of
-Mall.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">{64}</a></span></p>
-
-<p>This game was popular from the end of the sixteenth
-to the beginning of the eighteenth century, and then went
-out of fashion. At one time there were few large towns
-without a mall, or prepared ground where the game could
-be played. There is reason to believe that the game was
-introduced into England from Scotland on the accession
-of James VI. to the English throne, because the King
-names it in his "Basilicon Dōron" among other exercises
-as suited for his son Henry, who was afterwards Prince
-of Wales, and about the same time Sir R. Dallington, in
-his <i>Method of Travel</i> (1598), expresses his surprise that
-the sport was not then introduced into England.</p>
-
-<p>The game was played in long shaded alleys, and on
-dry gravel walks. The mall in St. James's Park was
-nearly half a mile in length, and was kept with the
-greatest care. Pepys relates how he went to talk with
-the keeper of the mall, and how he learned the manner
-of mixing the earth for the floor, over which powdered
-cockle-shells were strewn. All this required such
-attention that a special person was employed for the
-purpose, who was called the cockle-strewer. In dry
-weather the surface was apt to turn to dust, and
-consequently to impede the flight of the ball, so that
-the cockle-strewer's office was by no means a sinecure.
-Richard Blome, writing in 1673, asserts that this mall
-was "said to be the best in Christendom," but Evelyn
-claims the pre-eminence for that at Tours, with its seven
-rows of tall elms, as "the noblest in Europe for length
-and shade." The game is praised by Sir R. Dallington
-"because it is a gentlemanlike sport, not violent, and
-yields good occasion and opportunity of discourse as
-they walke from one marke to the other," and Joseph
-Lauthier, who wrote a treatise on the subject, entitled
-<i>Le Jeu de Mail</i>, Paris, 1717 (which is now extremely
-scarce), uses the same form of recommendation.</p>
-
-<p>The chief requisites for the game were mallets, balls,
-two arches or hoops, one at either end of the mall, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">{65}</a></span>
-a wooden border marked so as to show the position of the
-balls when played. The mallets were of different size
-and form to suit the various players, and Lauthier directs
-that the weight and height of the mallet should be in
-proportion to the strength and stature of the player.
-The balls were of various sizes and weights, and each
-size had its distinct name. In damp weather, when the
-soil was heavy, a lighter ball was required than when
-the soil was sandy. A gauge was used to ascertain its
-weight, and the weight of the mallet was adjusted to
-that of the ball. The arch or pass was about two feet
-high and two inches wide. The one at the west end of
-St. James's Park remained in its place for many years,
-and was not cleared away until the beginning of the reign
-of George III. In playing the game, the mallet was
-raised above the head and brought down with great force
-so as to strike the ball to a considerable distance. The
-poet Waller describes Charles II.'s stroke in the following
-lines:—</p>
-
-<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
-<span class="i0">"Here a well-polished Mall gives us joy,<br /></span>
-<span class="i0">To see our prince his matchless force employ.<br /></span>
-<span class="i0">No sooner has he touch'd the flying ball,<br /></span>
-<span class="i0">But 'tis already more than half the Mall;<br /></span>
-<span class="i0">And such a fury from his arm has got,<br /></span>
-<span class="i0">As from a smoking culverin 'twere shot."<br /></span>
-</div></div>
-
-<p>Considerable skill and practice were required in the
-player, who, while attempting to make the ball skate
-along the ground with speed, had to be careful that he
-did not strike it in such a manner as to raise it from
-the ground. This is shown by what Charles Cotton
-writes:—</p>
-
-<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
-<span class="i0">"But playing with the boy at Mall<br /></span>
-<span class="i0">(I rue the time and ever shall),<br /></span>
-<span class="i0">I struck the ball, I know not how,<br /></span>
-<span class="i0">(For that is not the play, you know),<br /></span>
-<span class="i0">A pretty height into the air."<br /></span>
-</div></div>
-
-<p>This boy was, perhaps, a caddie, for it will be seen that
-the game was a sort of cross between golf and croquet.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">{66}</a></span></p>
-
-<p>Lauthier describes four ways of playing at pall mall,
-viz.:—(1) the <i>rouet</i>, or pool game; (2) <i>en partie</i>, a match
-game; (3) <i> grands coups</i>, at long shots; and (4) <i>chicane</i>,
-or hockey. Moreover, he proposes a new game to be
-played like billiards.</p>
-
-<p>We may now pass from St. James's Park to Hyde
-Park, which became a place of public resort in the reigns
-of James I. and Charles I. It was then considered to be
-quite a country place. Ben Jonson mentions in the
-Prologue to his comedy, <i>The Staple of News</i> (1625), the
-number of coaches which congregated there, and Shirley
-describes the horse-races in his comedy entitled <i>Hide
-Parke</i> (1637).</p>
-
-<p>The park, being Crown property, was sold by order
-of Parliament in 1652 for about 17,000 in three lots,
-the purchasers being Richard Wilcox, John Tracy, and
-Anthony Deane. Cromwell was a frequent visitor, and
-on one occasion when he was driving in the park his
-horses ran away, and he was thrown off his coach.</p>
-
-<p>After the Restoration the park was the daily resort of
-all the gallantry of the court, and Pepys found driving
-there very pleasant, although he complained of the dust.
-The Ring, which is described in Grammont's <i>Memoirs</i> as
-"the rendezvous of magnificence and beauty," was a
-small enclosure of trees round which the carriages
-circulated.</p>
-
-<p>Pepys writes April 4th, 1663:—</p>
-
-<div class="blockquot">
-
-<p>"After dinner to Hide Park ... At the Park was the King
-and in another coach my Lady Castlemaine, they greeting one another
-at every tour."</p></div>
-
-<p>This passage is illustrated in Wilson's <i>Memoirs</i>, 1719,
-where we are told that when the coaches "have turned for
-some time round one way, they face about and turn
-t'other."</p>
-
-<p>John Macky, in his <i>Journey through England</i> (1724),
-affirms that in fine weather he had seen above three
-hundred coaches at a time making "the Grand Tour."<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">{67}</a></span></p>
-
-<p>Cosmo tells of the etiquette which was observed
-among the company:—</p>
-
-<div class="blockquot">
-
-<p>"The King and Queen are often there, and the duke and duchess,
-towards whom at the first meeting and no more all persons show the
-usual marks of respect, which are afterwards omitted, although they
-should chance to meet again ever so often, every one being at full liberty,
-and under no constraint whatever, and to prevent the confusion and
-disorder which might arise from the great number of lackies and footmen,
-these are not permitted to enter Hyde Park, but stop at the gate
-waiting for their masters."</p></div>
-
-<p>Oldys refers to a poem, printed in sixteen pages,
-which was entitled "The Circus, or British Olympicks: a
-Satyr on the Ring in Hyde Park." He says that the
-poem satirizes many well-known fops under fictitious
-names, and he raises the number of coaches seen on a fine
-evening from Macky's three hundred to a thousand. The
-Ring was partly destroyed at the time the Serpentine was
-formed by Caroline, Queen of George II.</p>
-
-<p>Although the Ring has disappeared, Hyde Park has
-remained from the Restoration period until the present
-day the most fashionable place in London, but now the
-whole park has been utilized.</p>
-
-<p>Charles II., in reviving the Stage, specially patronised
-it himself, and it may be referred to here from its
-connection with the Court. It has already been noticed
-that previous monarchs did not visit the public theatres.</p>
-
-<p>Pepys was an enthusiastic playgoer, and the <i>Diary</i>
-contains a mass of information respecting the Stage not
-elsewhere to be found, so that we are able to trace the
-various advances made in the revival of the Stage from
-the incipient attempt of Davenant before the Restoration
-to the improvements in scenery introduced by the rivalry
-of the two managers, Davenant and Killigrew.
-Immediately after the Restoration two companies of
-actors were organized, who performed at two different
-houses. One theatre was known as the King's House,
-called by Pepys "The Theatre," and the other as the
-Duke's House, called by Pepys "The Opera." Sir William<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">{68}</a></span>
-Davenant obtained a patent for his company as "The
-Duke's Servants," named after the Duke of York, and
-Thomas Killigrew obtained one for "The King's
-Servants."</p>
-
-<p>Killigrew's Company first performed at the "Red
-Bull," Clerkenwell, and on November 8th removed to
-Gibbons's Tennis Court in Bear Yard, which was entered
-from Vere Street, Clare Market. Here the Company
-remained till 1663, when they removed to Drury Lane
-Theatre, which had been built for their reception, and
-was opened on May 7th.</p>
-
-<p>Davenant's Company first performed at the Cockpit,
-Drury Lane. They began to play at Salisbury Court
-Theatre on November 13th, 1660, and went to Cobham
-House, Blackfriars, on the site afterwards occupied by
-Apothecaries' Hall, in January, 1661. They then removed
-to the theatre in Portugal Row, built on the site of Lisle's
-Tennis Court. Rhodes, a bookseller, who had formerly
-been wardrobe keeper at the Blackfriars, had managed in
-1659 to obtain a licence from the State, and John Downes
-affirms that his company acted at the Cockpit, but
-apparently he was acting at the Salisbury Court Theatre
-before Davenant went there. Killigrew, however, soon
-succeeded in suppressing Rhodes. Davenant planned a
-new building in Dorset Gardens, which was close to
-Salisbury Court, where the former theatre was situated.
-He died, however, before it was finished, but the
-company removed there in 1671, and the theatre was
-opened on the 9th of November with Dryden's play,
-<i>Sir Martin Mar-all</i>, which he had improved from a
-rough draft by the Duke of Newcastle. Pepys had seen
-it seven times in the years 1667-68. The Lincoln's Inn
-Fields Theatre remained shut up until February, 1672,
-when the King's Company, burnt out of Drury Lane
-Theatre, made use of it till March, 1674, by which time
-the new building in Brydges Street, Covent Garden, was
-ready for their occupation.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">{69}</a></span></p>
-
-<p>When Tom Killigrew died in 1682 the King's and the
-Duke's companies were united, and the Duke's servants
-removed from Dorset Gardens to Drury Lane. The two
-companies performed together for the first time on
-November 16th.</p>
-
-<p>These constant changes are very confusing, and the
-recital of them is not very entertaining, but it is necessary
-to make the matter clear for the proper understanding of
-the history of the time. The plan of the old theatres,
-with their platform stage, was no longer of use for the
-altered arrangements introduced at the Restoration.
-Successive improvements in the form of the houses were
-made, but we learn from Pepys that it was some time
-before the roofing of the building was water-tight.</p>
-
-<p>The public theatres were open in the afternoon, three
-o'clock being the usual hour for performance, and the
-plays were therefore partly acted in the summer by
-daylight. It was thus necessary to have skylights, but
-these were so slight that heavy rain came and wetted
-those below. On June 1st, 1664, Pepys wrote:—</p>
-
-<div class="blockquot">
-
-<p>"Before the play was done it fell such a storm of hail that we in the
-middle of the pit were fain to rise, and all the house in a disorder."</p></div>
-
-<p>Davenant was the original planner of the modern
-stage and its scenery, but Killigrew did his part in the
-improvement carried out. He was somewhat jealous of
-his brother manager, and on one occasion he explained to
-Pepys what he himself had done:—</p>
-
-<div class="blockquot">
-
-<p>"Feb. 12th, 1666-67. The stage is now by his pains a thousand
-times better and more glorious than ever heretofore. Now, wax candles,
-and many of them; then not above 3 lbs. of tallow: now all things civil,
-no rudeness anywhere; then as in a bear garden: then two or three
-fiddlers, now nine or ten of the best: then nothing but rushes upon the
-ground, and everything else mean; and now all otherwise; then the
-Queen seldom and the King never would come; now, not the King only
-for State but all civil people do think they may come as well as any."</p></div>
-
-<p>Killigrew complained that "the audience at his house
-was not above half as much as it used to be before the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">{70}</a></span>
-late fire," but in the following year (February 6th, 1667-8)
-there were crowds at the other house. Pepys relates:—</p>
-
-<div class="blockquot">
-
-<p>"Home to dinner, and my wife being gone before, I to the Duke of
-York's playhouse; where a new play of Etheridge's called 'She Would
-if she Could,' and though I was there by two o'clock, there were 1,000
-people put back that could not have room in the pit."</p></div>
-
-<p>Pepys's criticisms on the plays he saw acted at these
-theatres were not always satisfactory, and often they
-were contradictory. At the same time he was apparently
-judicious in the disposal of praise and blame on the
-actors he saw. Betterton was his ideal of the perfect
-actor, and, so far as it is possible to judge as to one
-who lived so long ago, public opinion formed by those
-capable of judging from contemporary report seems to
-be in agreement with that of Pepys.</p>
-
-<p>Pepys was a great frequenter of taverns and inns,
-as were most of his contemporaries. There are about
-one hundred and thirty London taverns mentioned in
-the <i>Diary</i>, but time has swept away nearly all of these
-houses, and it is difficult to find any place which Pepys
-frequented.</p>
-
-<p>These taverns may be considered as a link between
-the Court end of London and the city, for Pepys
-distributed his favours between the two places. King
-Street, Westminster, was full of inns, and Pepys seems
-to have frequented them all. Two of them—the "Dog"
-and the "Sun"—are mentioned in Herrick's address to
-the shade of "Glorious Ben":—</p>
-
-<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
-<span class="i0">"Ah, Ben!<br /></span>
-<span class="i0">Say how or when<br /></span>
-<span class="i0">Shall we thy guests<br /></span>
-<span class="i0">Meet at these feasts<br /></span>
-<span class="i0">Made at the Sun,<br /></span>
-<span class="i0">The Dog, the Triple Tunne?<br /></span>
-<span class="i0">Where we such clusters had<br /></span>
-<span class="i0">As made us nobly wild, not mad!<br /></span>
-<span class="i0">And yet such verse of thine<br /></span>
-<span class="i0">Outdid the meate, outdid the frolic wine."<br /></span><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">{71}</a></span>
-</div></div>
-
-<p>The "Three Tuns" at Charing Cross, visited by
-Pepys, was probably the same house whose sign Herrick
-changes to "Triple Tun."</p>
-
-<p>Among the Westminster taverns may be mentioned
-"Heaven" and "Hell," two places of entertainment at
-Westminster Hall; the "Bull Head" and the "Chequers"
-and the "Swan" at Charing Cross; the "Cock" in Bow
-Street and the "Fleece" in York Street, Covent Garden;
-the "Canary" house by Exeter Change; and the "Blue
-Balls" in Lincoln's Inn Fields.</p>
-
-<p>The majority of these taverns patronised by Pepys
-were, however, in the city. There were several "Mitres"
-in London, but perhaps the most interesting one was that
-kept in Fenchurch Street by Daniel Rawlinson, a staunch
-royalist, who, when Charles I. was executed, hung his
-sign in mourning. Thomas Hearne says that naturally
-made him suspected by the Roundheads, but "endeared
-him so much to the Churchmen that he throve amain and
-got a good estate." His son, Sir Thomas Rawlinson, was
-Lord Mayor in 1700, and President of Bridewell
-Hospital. His two grandsons, Thomas and Richard
-Rawlinson, hold an honourable place in the roll of
-eminent book collectors. The "Samson" in St. Paul's
-Churchyard was another famous house, as also the
-"Dolphin" in Tower Street, a rendezvous of the Navy
-officers, which provided very good and expensive
-dinners.</p>
-
-<p>The "Cock" in Threadneedle Street was an old-established
-house when Pepys visited it on March 7th,
-1659-60, and it lasted till 1840, when it was cleared
-away. In the eighteenth century it was a constant
-practice for the frequenters of the "Cock" to buy a chop
-or steak at the butcher's and bring it to be cooked, the
-charge for which was one penny. Fox's friend, the
-notorious Duke of Norfolk, known as "Jockey of
-Norfolk," often bought his chop and brought it here
-to be cooked, until his rank was discovered.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">{72}</a></span></p>
-
-<p>The meetings of the Royal Society were held at
-Gresham College in Bishopsgate Street, and then at
-Arundel House in the Strand, which was lent to the
-Society by Henry Howard of Norfolk, afterwards Duke
-of Norfolk. Cosmo of Tuscany visited the latter place
-for a meeting of the Royal Society, and he gives in his
-<i>Travels</i> an interesting account of the manner in which the
-proceedings were carried out.</p>
-
-<p>There are many references in Pepys's <i>Diary</i> to the
-Lord Mayor and the Rulers of the City, and of the
-customs carried out there.</p>
-
-<p>The Lord Mayor, aldermen, and common councilmen
-visited Cosmo, who was staying at Lord St. Alban's
-mansion in St. James's Square. His Highness, having
-dined with the King at the Duke of Buckingham's,
-kept the city magnates waiting for a time, but Colonel
-Gascoyne, "to make the delay less tedious, had
-accommodated himself to the national taste by ordering
-liquor and amusing them with drinking toasts, till it
-was announced that His Highness was ready to give
-them audience." The description of the audience is very
-interesting.</p>
-
-<p>Pepys lived in the city at the Navy Office in Seething
-Lane (opposite St. Olave's, Hart Street, the church he
-attended) during the whole of the time he was writing
-his <i>Diary</i>, but when he was Secretary of the Admiralty
-he went, in 1684, to live at the end of Buckingham
-Street, Strand, in a house on the east side which looks on
-to the river.</p>
-
-<p>Mr. John Eliot Hodgkin possesses the original lease
-(dated September 30th, 1687) from the governor and
-company of the New River for a supply of water through
-a half-inch pipe, and four small cocks of brass led from
-the main pipe in Villiers Street to Samuel Pepys's house
-in York Buildings, also a receipt for two quarters' rent
-for the same.<a name="FNanchor_8_8" id="FNanchor_8_8"></a><a href="#Footnote_8_8" class="fnanchor">[8]</a><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">{73}</a></span></p>
-
-<p>Two of the greatest calamities that could overtake
-any city occurred in London during the writing of the
-<i>Diary</i>, and were fully described by Pepys—viz., the
-Plague of 1665 and the Fire of 1666. Defoe's most
-interesting history of the plague year was written in
-1722 at second hand, for the writer was only two years
-old when this scourge overran London. Pepys wrote
-of what he saw, and as he stuck to his duty during the
-whole time that the pestilence continued, he saw much
-that occurred.</p>
-
-<p>England was first visited with the plague in 1348-49,
-which, since 1833 (when Hecker's work on the <i>Epidemics
-of the Middle Ages</i> was first published in English),
-has been styled the Black Death—a translation of the
-German term "Der Schwarze Tod." This plague had the
-most momentous effect upon the history of England
-on account of the fearful mortality it caused. It
-paralysed industry, and permanently altered the position
-of the labourer. The statistics of the writers of the
-Middle Ages are of little value, and the estimates of
-those who died are various, but the statement that
-half the population of England died from the plague
-is probably not far from the truth. From 1348 to 1665
-plague was continually occurring in London, but it has
-not appeared since the last date, except on a small
-scale. Dr. Creighton gives particulars of the visitations
-in London in 1603, 1625, and 1665, from which it
-appears that the mortality in 1665 was more than
-double that in 1603, and about a third more than that
-in 1625.</p>
-
-<p>On the 7th of June, 1665, Pepys for the first time saw
-two or three houses marked with the red cross, and the
-words "Lord, have mercy upon us" upon the doors, and
-the sight made him feel so ill-at-ease that he was forced
-to buy some roll tobacco to smell and chew.<a name="FNanchor_9_9" id="FNanchor_9_9"></a><a href="#Footnote_9_9" class="fnanchor">[9]</a> On the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">{74}</a></span>
-27th of this month he writes: "The plague encreases
-mightily."</p>
-
-<p>According to the Bills of Mortality, the total number
-of deaths in London for the week ending June 27th
-was 684, of which number 267 were deaths from the
-plague. The number of deaths rose week by week until
-September 19th, when the total was 8,297, and the deaths
-from the plague 7,165. On September 26th the total
-had fallen to 6,460, and deaths from the plague to
-5,533. The number fell gradually, week by week, till
-October 31st, when the total was 1,388, and the deaths
-from the plague 1,031. On November 7th there was a
-rise to 1,787 and 1,414 respectively. On November 14th
-the numbers had gone down to 1,359 and 1,050 respectively.
-On December 12th the total had fallen to 442,
-and deaths from plague to 243. On December 19th
-there was a rise to 525 and 281 respectively. The total
-of burials in 1665 was 97,306, of which number the
-plague claimed 68,596 victims. Most of the inhabitants
-of London who could get away took the first opportunity
-of escaping from the town, and in 1665 there were many
-places that the Londoner could visit with considerable
-chance of safety. The court went to Oxford, and afterwards
-came back to Hampton Court before venturing
-to return to Whitehall. The clergy and the doctors fled
-with very few exceptions, and several of those who
-stayed in town doing the duty of others, as well as
-their own, fell victims to the scourge.</p>
-
-<p>Queen Elizabeth would have none of these removals.
-Stow says that in the time of the plague of 1563, "a
-gallows was set up in the Market-place of Windsor to
-hang all such as should come there from London."</p>
-
-<p>Dr. Hodges, author of <i>Loimologia</i>, enumerates among
-those who assisted in the dangerous work of restraining
-the progress of the infection were the learned Dr. Gibson,
-Regius Professor at Cambridge; Dr. Francis Glisson,
-Dr. Nathaniel Paget, Dr. Peter Barwick, Dr. Humphrey<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">{75}</a></span>
-Brookes, etc. Of those he mentions eight or nine fell
-in their work, among whom was Dr. William Conyers,
-to whose goodness and humanity he bears the most
-honourable testimony. Dr. Alexander Burnett, of
-Fenchurch Street, one of Pepys's friends, was another
-of the victims.</p>
-
-<p>Of those to whom honour is due special mention
-must be made of Monk, Duke of Albemarle, Evelyn,
-Pepys, Edmond Berry Godfrey; and there were, of
-course, others.</p>
-
-<p>The Duke of Albemarle stayed at the Cockpit;
-Evelyn sent his wife and family to Wotton, but he
-remained in town himself, and had very arduous duties
-to perform, for he was responsible for finding food and
-lodging for the prisoners of war, and he found it difficult
-to get money for these purposes. He tells in his <i>Diary</i>
-how he was received by Charles II. and the Duke of
-York on January 29th, 1665-6, when the pestilence had
-partly abated and the court had ventured from Oxford
-to Hampton Court. The King</p>
-
-<div class="blockquot">
-
-<p>"... ran towards me, and in a most gracious manner gave me his
-hand to kisse, with many thanks for my care and faithfulnesse in his
-service in a time of such greate danger, when everybody fled their employment;
-he told me he was much obliged to me, and said he was several
-times concerned for me, and the peril I underwent, and did receive my
-service most acceptably (though in truth I did but do my duty, and O
-that I had performed it as I ought!) After that his Majesty was pleased
-to talke with me alone, neere an houre, of severall particulars of my
-employment and ordered me to attend him againe on the Thursday
-following at Whitehall. Then the Duke came towards me, and embraced
-me with much kindnesse, telling me if he had thought my danger would
-have been so greate, he would not have suffered his Majesty to employ
-me in that station."</p></div>
-
-<p>Pepys refers, on May 1st, 1667, to his visit to Sir
-Robert Viner's, the eminent goldsmith, where he saw
-"two or three great silver flagons, made with inscriptions
-as gifts of the King to such and such persons of quality
-as did stay in town [during] the late plague for keeping<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">{76}</a></span>
-things in order in the town, which is a handsome thing."
-Godfrey was a recipient of a silver tankard, and he
-was knighted by the King in September, 1666, for his
-efforts to preserve order in the Great Fire. The remembrance
-of his death, which had so great an influence on
-the spread of the "Popish Plot" terror, is greater than
-that of his public spirit during the plague and the fire.</p>
-
-<p>Pepys lived at Greenwich and Woolwich during the
-height of the plague, but he was constantly in London.
-How much these men must have suffered is brought
-very visibly before us in one of the best letters Pepys
-ever wrote:</p>
-
-<div class="blockquot">
-
-<p>"To Lady Casteret, from Woolwich, Sept. 4, 1655. The absence of
-the court and emptiness of the city takes away all occasion of news, save
-only such melancholy stories as would rather sadden than find your ladyship
-any divertissement in the hearing. I have stayed in the city till
-about 7,400 died in one week, and of them above 6,000 of the plague, and
-little noise heard day or night but tolling of bells; till I could walk
-Lumber Street and not meet twenty persons from one end to the other,
-and not fifty on the Exchange; till whole families have been swept away;
-till my very physician, Dr. Burnett, who undertook to secure me against
-any infection, having survived the month of his own house being shut
-up, died himself of the plague; till the nights, though much lengthened,
-are grown too short to conceal the burials of those that died the day
-before, people thereby constrained to borrow daylight for that service;
-lastly, till I could find neither meat nor drink safe, the butchers being
-everywhere visited, my brewer's house shut up, and my baker, with his
-whole family, dead of the plague."</p></div>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img src="images/image_016.jpg" width="600" height="378" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><p class='center'><span class="smcap">The Great Fire of London.</span></p>
-
-<p class='center'><i>The view shows Ludgate in the foreground, and in the distance St. Paul's Cathedral
-and the Tower of St. Mary-le-Bow.</i></p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p>Before the first calamity of pestilence was ended the
-second calamity of fire commenced. On the night of
-September 1st, 1666, many houses were destroyed. At
-three o'clock in the morning of the 2nd (Sunday) his
-servant Jane awoke Pepys to tell him that a great fire
-was raging. Not thinking much of the information, he
-went to sleep again, but when he rose at seven he found
-that about 300 houses had been burned in the night. He
-went first to the Tower, and saw the Lieutenant. Then
-he took boat to Whitehall to see the King. He tells of
-what he has seen, and says that, unless His Majesty will<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">{77}</a></span>
-command houses to be pulled down, nothing can stop
-the fire. On hearing this the King instructs him to go
-to the Lord Mayor (Sir Thomas Bludworth) and command
-him to pull down houses in every direction. The
-Mayor seems to have been but a poor creature, and when
-he heard the King's message</p>
-
-<div class="blockquot">
-
-<p>"... he cried like a fainting woman, 'Lord! what can I do? I am
-spent: people will not obey me. I have been pulling down houses, but
-the fire overtakes us faster than we can do it.'"</p></div>
-
-<p>Fortunately, most of the Londoners were more
-vigorous than the Mayor. The King and the Duke of
-York interested themselves in the matter, and did their
-best to help those who were busy in trying to stop the
-fire. Evelyn wrote on September 6th:—</p>
-
-<div class="blockquot">
-
-<p>"It is not indeede imaginable how extraordinary the vigilance and
-activity of the King and the Duke was, even labouring in person,
-and being present to command, order, reward, or encourage workmen,
-by which he showed his affection to his people and gained theirs."</p></div>
-
-<p>Sir William Penn and Pepys were ready in resource,
-and saw to the blowing up of houses to check the spread
-of the flames, the former bringing workmen out of the
-dockyards to help in the work. During the period when
-it was expected that the Navy Office would be destroyed,
-Pepys sent off his money, plate, and most treasured
-property to Sir W. Rider, at Bethnal Green, and then he
-and Penn dug a hole in their garden, in which they put
-their wine and parmezan cheese.</p>
-
-<p>On the 10th of September, Sir W. Rider let it be
-known that, as the town is full of the report respecting
-the wealth in his house, he will be glad if his friends
-will provide for the safety of their property elsewhere.</p>
-
-<p>On September 5th, when Evelyn went to Whitehall,
-the King commanded him</p>
-
-<div class="blockquot">
-
-<p>"... among the rest to looke after the quenching of Fetter Lane end,
-to preserve if possible that part of Holborn, whilst the rest of y<sup>e</sup> gentlemen
-tooke their several posts, some at one part, some at another (for now
-they began to bestir themselves and not till now, who hitherto had stood<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">{78}</a></span>
-as men intoxicated with their hands acrosse) and began to consider that
-nothing was likely to put a stop but the blowing up of so many houses
-as might make a wider gap than any had yet been made by the ordinary
-method of pulling them downe with engines."</p></div>
-
-<p>The daily records of the fire and of the movements
-of the people are most striking. Now we see the river
-crowded with boats filled with the goods of those who
-are houseless, and then we pass to Moorfields, where are
-crowds carrying their belongings about with them, and
-doing their best to keep these separate till some huts
-can be built to receive them. Soon paved streets and
-two-storey houses were seen in Moorfields, the city
-authorities having let the land on leases for seven
-years.</p>
-
-<p>The wearied people complained that their feet
-were "ready to burn" through walking in the streets
-"among the hot coals."</p>
-
-<p>(September 5th, 1666.) Means were provided to save
-the unfortunate multitudes from starvation, and on this
-same day proclamation was made</p>
-
-<div class="blockquot">
-
-<p>"... ordering that for the supply of the distressed persons left
-destitute ... great proportions of bread be brought daily, not only
-to the former markets, but to those lately ordained. Churches and public
-places were to be thrown open for the reception of poor people and their
-goods."</p></div>
-
-<p>Westminster Hall was filled with "people's goods."</p>
-
-<p>On September 7th Evelyn went towards Islington
-and Highgate</p>
-
-<div class="blockquot">
-
-<p>"... where one might have seen 200,000 people of all ranks and
-degrees dispers'd and lying along by their heapes of what they could
-save from the fire, deploring their losse, and tho' ready to perish for
-hunger and destitution yet not asking one penny for reliefe, which to
-me appear'd a stranger sight than any I had yet beheld."</p></div>
-
-<p>The fire was fairly got under on September 7th, but
-on the previous day Clothworkers' Hall was burning,
-as it had been for three days and nights, in one
-volume of flame. This was caused by the cellars being<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">{79}</a></span>
-full of oil. How long the streets remained in a
-dangerous condition may be guessed by Pepys's
-mention, on May 16th, 1666-7, of the smoke issuing
-from the cellars in the ruined streets of London.</p>
-
-<p>The fire consumed about five-sixths of the whole
-city, and outside the walls a space was cleared about
-equal to an oblong square of a mile and a half in
-length and half a mile in breadth. Well might Evelyn
-say, "I went againe to y<sup>e</sup> ruines for it was no longer a
-citty" (September 10th, 1666).</p>
-
-<p>The destruction was fearful, and the disappearance
-of the grand old Cathedral of St. Paul's was among the
-most to be regretted of the losses. One reads these
-particulars with a sort of dulled apathy, and it requires
-such a terribly realistic picture as the following, by
-Evelyn, to bring the scene home to us in all its magnitude
-and horror:</p>
-
-<div class="blockquot">
-
-<p>"The conflagration was so universal, and the people so astonish'd, that
-from the beginning I know not by what despondency or fate, they hardly
-stirr'd to quench it, so that there was nothing heard or seene but crying
-out and lamentation, running about like distracted creatures without at
-all attempting to save even their goods; such a strange consternation there
-was upon them, so as it burned both in breadth and length, the churches,
-public halls, Exchange, hospitals, monuments and ornaments, leaping
-after a prodigious manner, from house to house, and streete to streete,
-at greate distances one from y<sup>e</sup> other; for y<sup>e</sup> heat with a long set of faire
-and warm weather had even ignited the aire and prepared the materials
-to conceive the fire, which devour'd after an incredible manner houses,
-furniture, and every thing. Here we saw the Thames cover'd with goods
-floating, all the barges and boates laden with what some had time and
-courage to save, as, on y<sup>e</sup> other, y<sup>e</sup> carts, &c., carrying out to the fields,
-which for many miles were strew'd with moveables of all sorts, and tents
-erecting to shelter both people and what goods they could get away.
-Oh the miserable and calamitous spectacle! Such as haply the world
-had not seene since the foundation of it, nor be outdon till the universal
-conflagration thereof. All the skie was of a fiery aspect, like the top
-of a burning oven, and the light seene above 40 miles round about for
-many nights. God grant mine eyes may never behold the like, who now
-saw above 10,000 houses all in one flame; the noise and cracking and
-thunder of the impetuous flames, y<sup>e</sup> shrieking of women and children,
-the hurry of people, the fall of towers, houses and churches was like a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">{80}</a></span>
-hideous storme and the aire all about so hot and inflam'd that at the
-last one was not able to approach it, so that they were forc'd to stand
-still and let y<sup>e</sup> flames burn on, which they did neere two miles in length
-and one in breadth. The clouds also of smoke were dismall and reach'd
-upon computation neer 50 miles in length. Thus I left it this afternoone
-burning, a resemblance of Sodom, or the last day. It forcibly call'd
-to mind that passage—<i>non enim hic habemus stabilem civitatem</i>: the
-ruines resembling the picture of Troy. London was, but is no more."—(Sept.
-3rd, 1666.)</p></div>
-
-<p>Can we be surprised at the bewildered feelings of the
-people? Rather must we admire the practical and heroic
-conduct of the homeless multitude. It took long to
-rebuild the city, but directly anything could be done the
-workers were up and doing.</p>
-
-<p>An Act of Parliament was passed "for erecting a
-Judicature for determination of differences touching
-Houses burned or demolished by reason of the late Fire
-which happened in London" (18 and 19 Car. II.,
-cap. 7), and Sir Matthew Hale was the moving spirit in
-the planning it and in carrying out its provisions when it
-was passed. Burnet affirms that it was through his
-judgment and foresight "that the whole city was raised
-out of its ashes without any suits of law" (<i>History of
-his Own Time</i>, Book ii.). By a subsequent Act (18 and
-19 Car. II., cap. 8) the machinery for a satisfactory
-rebuilding of the city was arranged. The rulings of the
-judges appointed by these Acts gave general satisfaction,
-and after a time the city was rebuilt very much on the
-old lines, and things went on as before.<a name="FNanchor_10_10" id="FNanchor_10_10"></a><a href="#Footnote_10_10" class="fnanchor">[10]</a> At one time
-it was supposed that the fire would cause a westward
-march of trade, but the city asserted the old supremacy
-when it was rebuilt.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img src="images/image_017.jpg" width="600" height="450" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><p class='center'><span class="smcap">South-West View of Old St. Paul's.</span></p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p>Three great men, thoroughly competent to give<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">{81}</a></span>
-valuable advice on the rebuilding of the city, viz., Wren,
-Robert Hooke, and Evelyn, presented to the King
-valuable plans for the best mode of arranging the new
-streets, but none of these schemes was accepted. One
-cannot but regret that the proposals of the great architect
-were not carried out.</p>
-
-<p>With the reference to the Plague and the Great Fire
-we may conclude this brief account of the later Stuart
-London. The picturesque, but dirty, houses were
-replaced by healthier and cleaner ones. The West End
-increased and extended its borders, but the growth to
-the north of Piccadilly was very gradual. All periods
-have their chroniclers, but no period has produced such
-delightful guides to the actual life of the town as the
-later half of the seventeenth century did in the pages
-of Evelyn and Pepys. It must ever be a sincere regret
-to all who love to understand the more intimate side
-of history that Pepys did not continue his <i>Diary</i> to a
-later period. We must, however, be grateful for what we
-possess, and I hope this slight and imperfect sketch of
-Pepys's London may refresh the memories of my readers
-as to what the London of that time was really like.</p></div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">{82}</a></span></p>
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-<div class="chapter">
-
-<h2><a name="THE_OLD_LONDON_BRIDGES" id="THE_OLD_LONDON_BRIDGES">THE OLD LONDON BRIDGES</a></h2>
-
-<p class='p3'><span class="smcap">By J. Tavenor-Perry</span></p>
-
-<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
-<span class="i0">"London Bridge is broken down,<br /></span>
-<span class="i2">Dance o'er my Lady Lee.<br /></span>
-<span class="i0">London Bridge is broken down<br /></span>
-<span class="i2">With a gay Ladee."<br /></span>
-</div></div>
-
-<div>
-<img class="drop-cap" src="images/drop-a.png" width="100" height="95" alt="" />
-</div>
-
-<p class="drop-cap">At the beginning of the last century only three
-bridges spanned the Thames in its course
-through London, and of these two were scarcely
-fifty years old; but before the century closed
-there were no less than thirteen bridges across the river
-between Battersea and the Pool. The three old bridges
-have been rebuilt, and even some of the later ones have
-been reconstructed, whilst one has been removed bodily,
-and now spans the gorge of the Avon at Bristol. Of all
-these bridges unfortunately only two are constructed
-wholly of stone, and can lay claim to any architectural
-merit; and even one of these two has recently had the
-happy effect of its graceful arches destroyed by the
-addition of overhanging pathways. Of the rest, some are
-frankly utilitarian—mere iron girder railway bridges, with
-no attempt at decoration beyond gilding the rivets—whilst
-the others have their iron arches and construction
-disguised with coarse and meaningless ornaments. One
-only of the iron bridges is in anyway worthy of its
-position; in its perfect simplicity and the bold spans
-of its three arches, Southwark Bridge bears comparison
-with the best in Europe, but the gradients and approaches
-are so inconvenient that it is even now threatened with
-reconstruction.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">{83}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img src="images/image_018.jpg" width="600" height="356" alt="" />
-
-<p class="img_link"><a href="images/image_018_full.jpg">View larger version.</a></p>
-
-<div class="caption"><p class='center'><span class="smcap">Sir John Evelyn's Plan for Rebuilding London after the Great Fire.</span></p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p>Exactly when the first bridge was built across the
-Thames at London we can only surmise, for even tradition
-is silent on the subject, and we only know of the existence
-of one at an early date by very casual references, which,
-however, do not help us to realise the character of the
-work. Though no evidence remains of a Roman bridge,
-it seems unlikely, having regard to the importance of
-London, and to the fact that the great roads from the
-south coast converged on a point opposite to it, on the
-other side of the river, that they should have been left
-to end there without a bridge to carry them over. The
-difficulties of building across a great tidal river had
-not prevented the Romans from bridging the Medway at
-Rochester, as remains actually discovered have proved;
-and if no evidences of Roman work were actually met
-with in the rebuilding of London Bridge or the removal
-of the old one, this may be due to the fact that each
-successive bridge—and there have been at least three
-within historical times—was built some distance further
-up the stream than its predecessor.</p>
-
-<p>We know, however, with certainty that a bridge was
-standing in the reign of King Ethelred from the references
-made to it, and we may fairly assume that this
-must have been the Roman bridge, at least so far as its
-main construction was concerned; and, like other Roman
-bridges standing at that time in Gaul and in other parts
-of England, it would have consisted merely of piers of
-masonry, with a wooden roadway passing from one to
-the other. It was still standing, of sufficient strength
-for resistance, when the Danes under Canute sailed up
-the river, who, being unable to force a passage, tradition
-says—and antiquaries have imagined they could discover
-traces of it—cut a ship canal through the Surrey marshes
-from Bermondsey to Battersea, and passed their fleet
-through that way.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84"></a></span>
-<img src="images/image_019.jpg" width="383" height="600" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><p class='center'><span class="smcap">Fig. 1—The Undercroft of St. Thomas of Canterbury
-on the Bridge.</span></p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p>The history of the bridge only opens with the
-beginning of the twelfth century. According to tradition,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">{85}</a></span>
-the convent of St. Mary Overie, Southwark, had been
-originally endowed with the profits of a ferry across the
-river, and had in consequence undertaken the duty of
-maintaining the bridge in a proper state of repair when
-a bridge was built. This convent was refounded in 1106
-as a priory of Austin Canons; and it is not a little
-remarkable, having regard to the duties it had undertaken,
-that of its founders, who were two Norman Knights, one
-was William de Pont de l'Arche. At the Norman town,
-where stood his castle and from which he took his name,
-was a bridge of twenty-two openings, erected, it was
-said, by Charles the Bald, but most likely a Roman
-work, across the Seine at the highest point reached by
-the tide. It is a further curious coincidence that this
-same William appears as a witness to a deed executed
-by Henry I., excusing the manor of Alciston, in Sussex,
-from paying any dues for the repairs of London Bridge.</p>
-
-<p>It is recorded that in 1136 the bridge was burnt,
-which may perhaps merely mean that the deck was
-destroyed, whilst the piers remained sufficiently uninjured
-to allow of the structure being repaired; but in 1163 it
-had become so dangerous that Peter of Colechurch undertook
-the erection of a new bridge, which he constructed
-of elm timber. This sudden emergence of Peter from
-obscurity to carry out so important an engineering work
-is as dramatic as is that of St. Bnezet, who founded
-the confraternity of <i>Hospitaliers pontifices</i>, which undertook
-the building of bridges and the establishment of
-ferries. According to legend, this saint, although then
-only a young shepherd, essayed to bridge the Rhone
-at Avignon, and the ruined arches of his great work
-are still among the sights of that city. Peter may have
-possessed many more qualifications for building than a
-shepherd could have acquired, as large ecclesiastical
-works were in progress in London throughout his life,
-which he must have observed and perhaps profited by;
-but this is only surmise, as of his history, except in<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">{86}</a></span>
-connection with his great work, we know no more than
-the fact that he was the chaplain of St. Mary
-Colechurch. His contemporary, Randulphus de Decito,
-Dean of London, says that he was a native of the city, so
-that it is scarcely likely that he had acquired his skill
-abroad; but we are told that he traversed the country
-to collect the moneys for his undertaking, and he may
-thus have obtained some knowledge of the many Roman
-bridges which still survived, or even have seen the great
-bridge which Bishop Flambard had recently erected
-across the Wear at Durham. His selection as the architect
-of the earlier bridge of 1163 may perhaps not be
-due in any way to his especial engineering skill, but
-rather to some intimate connection with the priory of
-St. Mary Overie, whose canons were primarily responsible
-for the bridge repairs; indeed, since he is merely described
-as the chaplain of his church, he may himself have
-been one of the canons. But be the cause what it may—and
-it was not his success in erecting this first bridge,
-for it soon became dilapidated—thirteen years after its
-erection he started afresh, on a site further up the river,
-to erect a bridge of stone. In 1176, two years before
-St. Bnezet began his great bridge at Avignon, he
-commenced his work, and thirty-three years passed before
-its completion. Whether the delay was due to lack of
-funds or the incapacity of the architect we do not know,
-though probably to both, for before Peter's death King
-John, who had manifested considerable interest in the new
-bridge, had urged Peter's dismissal, and, under the advice
-of the Archbishop of Canterbury, suggested the appointment
-of Isembert of Saintes to complete the work. This
-Isembert was credited with the erection of the great
-bridge across the Charante at Saintes, although that
-bridge was undoubtedly a Roman one, and all he appears
-to have done was to turn arches between the original
-piers, and make it a stone bridge throughout. The same
-master was said to have built another bridge at La<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">{87}</a></span>
-Rochelle, and had evidently gained much experience in
-such engineering work; and it is perhaps a misfortune
-that the King's advice was neglected, as a skilled
-architect, which Peter certainly was not, might have
-saved the city of London much eventual loss and trouble.
-Peter was, however, suffered to continue the bridge
-until his death in 1205, when a commission of three
-city merchants completed the work in four years.</p>
-
-<p>The bridge which these many years of labour had
-produced was in every way unsuitable to its position,
-and mean as compared to similar buildings erected elsewhere.
-Lacking the skill to form proper foundations,
-Peter had spread them out into wide piers, which formed
-an almost continuous dam, through the openings in
-which the water rushed like a mill-race. The result was
-that the scour soon affected the stability of the piers,
-which had to be protected round by masses of masonry
-and chalk in the form of sterlings, which still further
-contracted the narrow waterways. The passage of the
-bridge by boat—"shooting the bridge," it was called—was
-always a dangerous operation; and a writer of the
-last century speaks of "the noise of the falling waters,
-the clamours of the water-men, and the frequent shrieks
-of drowning wretches," in describing it. So imperfectly
-built was the bridge that within four years of its completion
-King John again interfered, and called upon the
-Corporation properly to repair it; and from this time, or
-perhaps from Peter's death, when the three merchants
-were elected to complete the work, the Corporation
-appears to have taken over the responsibility of the
-bridge; and for this purpose they were endowed with
-certain properties, which became the nucleus of the present
-"Bridge House Estates." The increasing dilapidation of
-the bridge, the debris of fallen arches, and the rubbish
-and waste material which was suffered to accumulate,
-still further impeded the natural flow of the water, and
-little effort at improvement was ever made. Of the three<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">{88}</a></span>
-widest arches of the bridge, which were called the navigable
-locks, the most important had been the one nearest
-to the city end, which became known as the "Rock Lock,"
-and it acquired that name on account of a popular
-delusion that in its fairway was a growing and vegetating
-rock, which was nothing more than an accumulation of
-fallen ruins, which caught and held the floating refuse
-carried to and fro by the tides. And thus year after
-year the river dam became more solid, and the waterfall
-increased in height until it was said by one who knew
-them both that it was almost as safe to attempt the
-Falls of Niagara as to shoot London Bridge.</p>
-
-<p>As years went by, not only did the waterways
-become congested, but the roadway above began to be
-encroached on by houses and other buildings, for which
-a bridge was most unfitted. Two edifices, however, from
-the first formed necessary, or at least customary, adjuncts
-to such a building—the bridge gate and the bridge
-chapel. It was a Roman custom to erect gates at one
-end, or in the centre of their bridges—not triumphal
-arches, but twin gates, such as they built to their walled
-towns, and such as stood at the end of the bridge at
-Saintes, when it was altered by Isembert. Such gates
-as survived in medival times were generally fortified,
-and formed the model for imitation by medival
-builders; and such a gate was erected at the Southwark
-end of London, which, under its name of Bridge Gate,
-became one of the principal gates of the city. It was
-erected directly on one of the main piers, and was
-therefore of a substantial character, but suffered much
-in the various attacks made upon London from the
-Kentish side. In 1436 it collapsed, together with the
-Southwark end of the bridge, but was rebuilt at the
-cost of the citizens, chief among whom was Sir John
-Crosby, the builder of Crosby House; and although the
-gate was again in great part destroyed by the attack
-on London made in 1471 by Fauconbridge, one of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">{90}</a></span>
-towers of Crosby's gate survived until the eighteenth
-century. In 1577 the tower which stood at the north
-end of the bridge, and on which were usually displayed
-the heads of traitors, became so dilapidated that it was
-taken down, and the heads then on it were transferred
-to the Bridge Gate, henceforward known as "Traitors'
-Gate." It was upon the earlier gate that the head of
-Sir Thomas More was affixed, when heads were so
-common that even his, as we know from its adventures
-until buried in the Roper vault at Canterbury, was thrown
-into the river to make room for a crowd of successors.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89"></a></span>
-<img src="images/image_020.jpg" width="600" height="368" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><p class='center'><span class="smcap">Fig. 2—The Surrey End of London Bridge.</span></p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p>Of the chapel, which the founder of the bridge is
-said to have erected, no account survives; and although
-it was believed at the time of the destruction of the
-bridge that his remains were discovered, no satisfactory
-evidence of their identity was forthcoming. The first
-chapel must have perished in one of the early misfortunes
-which befel the fabric, as no trace of any detail
-which could be referred to the thirteenth century was
-discovered when the pier on which the chapel stood was
-removed. The drawings made by Vertue before the
-last remains were cleared away show a structure which
-may be assigned to a date but little later than the
-Chapel Royal of St. Stephen at Westminster, to which,
-in many particulars, it must have borne a considerable
-resemblance. It consisted of two storeys, both apparently
-vaulted, measuring some sixty by twenty feet, with an
-apsidal termination. The undercroft was nearly twenty
-feet high, and our illustration (<a href="#Page_84">fig. 1</a>) of a restoration
-of it, prepared from Vertue's drawings and dimensions,
-will give some idea of its beauty. The upper chapel
-seems to have been similar, but much more lofty, and
-had an arcade running round the walls under the
-windows. The buttresses of the exterior were crowned
-with crocketted pinnacles, and the effect of the whole,
-standing high above the surging waters of the river,
-must have been as striking as it was beautiful. The<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">{91}</a></span>
-chapel was built on the centre pier of the bridge, on
-the east side, and the chapels were entered from the
-roadway, the lower one by a newel staircase, on which
-was found the holy-water stoup when the bridge was
-destroyed in the last century. At the Reformation the
-church was converted into a warehouse, but, thanks to
-the solidity of its construction, it remained almost
-intact till it was swept away with the houses in 1756.</p>
-
-<p>Of the other buildings on the bridge there is little
-to say, for, although they made up a picturesque
-composition, they were of a most flimsy character,
-and wanting at the last in any architectural merit. Our
-illustration (<a href="#Page_89">fig. 2</a>), taken from an oil painting by Scott,
-belonging to the Fishmongers' Company, gives the
-principal group on the Surrey side, and in the sixth
-plate of Hogarth's <i>Marriage a la Mode</i> we get a view
-through the open window of another part in the last
-stage of dilapidation. There was, however, one exception
-to the commonplace among them, in a timber
-house, made in Holland, which was known as "Nonsuch
-House." It was erected, it was said, without nails, and
-placed athwart the roadway, hanging at the ends far
-over the river, with towers and spires at the angles,
-and over the great gate the arms of Queen Elizabeth.
-The top of the main front was surmounted, at a later
-date, with a pair of sundials, which bore the, for once,
-appropriate motto—"Time and Tide wait for no man."</p>
-
-<p>Had old London Bridge survived to this day, its
-waterfalls would doubtless have been utilized to
-generate electricity, and the idea of setting the Thames
-on fire realized in lighting the streets of London by its
-means; but the value of the force of the falling water
-was not overlooked by our ancestors. As early as 1582
-one Peter Corbis, a Dutchman, erected an engine,
-worked by the stream, which lifted the water to a
-reservoir, whence it was distributed by means of leaden
-pipes through the city. With many alterations and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">{92}</a></span>
-improvements, these water works continued in use until
-the last century, and it was stated before the House of
-Commons, in 1820, that more than 26 millions of hogsheads
-of the pellucid waters of the river were thus daily
-delivered to the city householders for their domestic
-use.</p>
-
-<p>Such, shortly, is the history of the fabric, which,
-after enduring for more than six hundred years, was
-swept away to make room for the present structure.
-For any accounts of the many stirring events which
-occurred on it, or about it, we have no space here. Are
-they not written in the chronicles of England?</p>
-
-<p>In the Fishmongers' Hall is preserved a valuable
-memorial of the ancient structure, of which we give an
-illustration (<a href="#Page_93">fig. 3</a>) by permission of the Worshipful
-Company. It consists of a chair with a seat of Purbeck
-marble, reminiscent in its arrangements of the coronation
-chair, on which is engraved this inscription:—</p>
-
-<div class="blockquot">
-
-<p>"I am the first stone that was put down for the foundation of old
-London Bridge in June 1176 by a priest named Peter who was vicar of
-Colechurch in London and I remained there undisturbed safe on the same
-oak piles this chair is made from till the Rev<sup>d.</sup> William John Jollife
-curate of Colmer Hampshire took me up in July 1832 when clearing
-away the old bridge after new London Bridge was completed."</p></div>
-
-<p>The framework of the chair gives a pictorial chronicle
-of the city bridges; the top rail of the back shows old
-London Bridge after the removal of the houses, below
-which are new London Bridge, Southwark and old
-Blackfriars Bridges. The arms of the city are carved
-at the top, whilst the monogram of Peter of Colechurch
-and the device of the Bridge House Estates complete
-the decoration. This device, which appears to have been
-also the old badge of Southwark, was sometimes displayed
-upon a shield, thus:—Az., an annulet ensigned
-with a cross pate, Or; interlaced with a saltire enjoined
-in base, of the second. We give an illustration of this
-in <a href="#Page_98">figure 5</a>.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">{93}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img src="images/image_021.jpg" width="391" height="600" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><p class='center'><span class="smcap">Fig. 3—The Foundation Stone Chair.</span></p>
-
-<p class='center'><i>At the Fishmongers' Hall.</i></p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">{94}</a></span></p>
-
-<p>Westminster Bridge seems a very recent structure as
-compared to that of London, but it is the next in
-point of date. The growing importance of Westminster
-as the seat of the Court and Parliament had made the
-necessity for an approach to the south side of the
-Thames, independent of the circuitous and narrow ways
-of London, long apparent. In the reign of Charles II.
-the question was seriously considered, to the alarm of
-the Mayor and Corporation of the city, who feared that
-their vested interests were endangered, and "that London
-would be destroyed if carts were allowed to cross the
-Thames elsewhere"; but, knowing their man, they
-devoted some of their ample funds to secure that
-monarch's successful opposition to the scheme. In the
-middle of the eighteenth century, however, when there
-was no Stuart to buy off, the idea was revived, and in
-1739, one Monsieur Labelye, a Swiss engineer—English
-engineers having, apparently, not sufficient experience—commenced
-a new stone bridge. His mode of putting
-in his foundations may have been scientific, but was
-certainly simple. The bridge piers were partly built in
-floating barges moored above the place where they were
-to be permanently erected. The barges were then sunk,
-their sides knocked out, and the piers completed. It
-is needless to say that the result was not satisfactory,
-and for years before the old bridge was pulled down
-many of its arches were filled up with a picturesque, but
-inconvenient, mass of shoring. Whether Henry, Earl
-of Pembroke, who laid the foundation stone, and of whom
-it was said no nobleman had a purer taste in architecture,
-was in any way responsible for the design, we
-cannot tell; but a French traveller of discrimination, who
-criticised the work after its completion, came to the
-conclusion that the peculiarly lofty parapets with which
-the bridge was adorned were so designed that they might
-check an Englishman's natural propensity to suicide by
-giving him time for reflection while surmounting such an<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">{95}</a></span>
-obstacle. It will be noticed in our illustration (<a href="#Page_97">fig. 4</a>),
-which is also taken from a painting by Scott, that the
-piers are crowned by alcoves, which provided a shelter
-from the blasts which blew over the river and from the
-mud scattered from the roadway. These were, doubtless,
-a survival of the spaces left above the cutwaters of
-medival bridges as refuges for pedestrians from vehicles
-when the roadways were very narrow, and those who
-remember the old wooden bridges of Battersea and
-Putney can appreciate their value.</p>
-
-<p>The city Corporation, which had so strenuously
-opposed the erection of a bridge at Westminster as
-unnecessary, set to work, as soon as that became an
-accomplished fact, to improve their own communications
-across the river. First, as we have seen, they cleared
-away the houses and other obstructions on old London
-Bridge, and next they started to build themselves a new
-bridge at Blackfriars. The land on both sides of the
-river at the point selected was very low and most unsuitable
-for the approaches, that on the north side being
-close to the mouth of the Fleet ditch, which there
-formed a creek large enough, in 1307, to form a haven
-for ships. The new bridge was begun in 1760, from the
-designs of Robert Mylne, a Scotch architect, who made
-an unsuccessful attempt to give an architectural effect
-to the structure by facing the piers with pairs of Ionic
-columns, standing on the cutwaters. The steep gradients
-of the bridge, necessitated by the lowness of the banks,
-made such a decoration peculiarly unsuitable, as each
-pair of columns had to be differently proportioned in
-height, although the cornice over them remained of the
-same depth throughout. But, in spite of its appearance
-of lightness, the structure was too heavy for its
-foundations, and for years this bridge rivalled that of
-Westminster in the picturesqueness of its dilapidation.
-The piers had been built on platforms of timber, so
-that when London Bridge was rebuilt, and the river<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">{97}</a></span>
-flowed in an unchecked course, these became exposed to
-the scour and were soon washed out.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96"></a></span>
-<img src="images/image_022.jpg" width="600" height="395" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><p class='center'><span class="smcap">Fig. 4—Old Westminster Bridge.</span></p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p>Waterloo Bridge was completed in 1817, and still
-remains unaltered and as sound as when its builders
-left it. It is fortunate that the approach on the north
-side was an easy one, as but a short interval occurred
-between the Strand, at almost its highest point, and the
-river bank, which it was easy to fill up, with the result
-that the bridge passes across the river at a perfect level.
-The foundations of the piers were properly constructed
-by means of coffer-dams, and no sign of failure has ever
-shown itself in its superstructure. The architect repeated
-the use of the orders, as at Blackfriars, but with a more
-fortunate result, as, the work being straight throughout,
-no variations in the proportions were required, and he was
-wise enough to select the Doric order as more suitable
-to his purpose, and as suggesting more solidity.</p>
-
-<p>Londoners profess to be somewhat proud of Waterloo
-Bridge, and it is a tradition among them that Canova,
-when he saw it, said that it was worth a journey across
-Europe to see. It, therefore, seems the more incredible
-that the grandchildren of those who could build such a
-bridge and appreciate such a man, could have erected,
-and even affect to admire, such a monstrosity as the
-Tower Bridge.</p>
-
-<p>The last of the older bridges to be built was that
-of Southwark, which was the speculation of a private
-company, who hoped to profit by the continuously
-congested state of London Bridge; but the steepness of
-the gradients and the inconvenience of the approaches
-from the city made it from the first a failure. It was
-the first bridge in London to be constructed in iron;
-its model being the great single-span bridge across the
-Wear at Sunderland. It is in three great arches, the
-centre one being 240 feet across, or four feet more than
-that at Sunderland, and the mass of metal is such that<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">{98}</a></span>
-an ordinary change of temperature will raise the arches
-an inch, and summer sunshine much more.</p>
-
-<p>Of the more recent bridges there is nothing to say
-worth the saying. The Thames, which was the busy and
-silent highway of our forefathers, is still silent, but
-busy no longer, and the appearance of its bridges is
-now no one's concern, since no one sees them. So long
-as they will safely carry the tramcar or the motor 'bus
-from side to side, they may become uglier even than they
-now are, if only that make them a little more cheap.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img src="images/image_023.jpg" width="166" height="200" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><p class='center'><span class="smcap">Fig. 5—Badge of Bridge House Estates.</span></p></div>
-</div></div>
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">{99}</a></span></p>
-
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<h2><a name="THE_CLUBS_OF_LONDON" id="THE_CLUBS_OF_LONDON">THE CLUBS OF LONDON</a></h2>
-
-<p class='p3'><span class="smcap">By Sir Edward Brabrook, C.B., F.S.A.</span></p>
-
-
-<div>
-<img class="drop-cap" src="images/drop-t.png" width="100" height="118" alt="" />
-</div>
-
-<p class="drop-cap">These are of many kinds. We suppose they are
-all more or less the lineal descendants of the
-taverns and coffee-houses that we associate with
-the memory of Ben Jonson, Dryden, Addison,
-and Samuel Johnson.</p>
-
-<div class="poem" style="clear: both;"><div class="stanza">
-<span class="i0">"Souls of poets dead and gone,<br /></span>
-<span class="i0">What elysium have ye known,<br /></span>
-<span class="i0">Happy field or mossy cavern,<br /></span>
-<span class="i0">Choicer than the Mermaid tavern?"<br /></span>
-</div></div>
-
-<p>The wits' coffee-house, where Claud Halcro carried a
-parcel for Master Thimblethwaite in order to get a sight
-of glorious John Dryden. Button's coffee-house, where the
-"Guardian" set up his Lion's Head. The Cock and the
-Cheshire Cheese, which resound with Johnson's sonorous
-echoes. If, indeed, the tavern has developed into the
-club, that palace of luxury, one can only say, as in the
-famous transmutation of alphana to equus, "C'est diablement
-chang sur la route."</p>
-
-<p>Intermediate is the host of clubs meeting occasionally,
-as the Breakfast Club, and the numerous dining clubs,
-one of which, the Royal Naval Club, established in 1765,
-is said to be a renewal of an earlier one dating from 1674.
-"The Club," which comes down from the time of Johnson
-and Reynolds, and still uses a notification to a new member
-drawn up by Gibbon; the Royal Society Club; the X
-Club, which consisted of ten members of the Athenum;
-the Society of Noviomagus, and the Cocked Hat Club,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">{100}</a></span>
-consisting of members of the Society of Antiquaries; the
-Cosmos Club of the Royal Geographical Society; the
-Colquhoun Club of the Royal Society of Literature; and
-a host of others in connection with learned societies, most
-of which are content to add the word "club" to the
-name of the society. Of another, but cognate, kind is
-the famous "Sublime Society of Beef Steaks," which was
-founded in 1735, and died (of inanition) in 1867. The
-members were not to exceed twenty-four in number. Beef
-steaks were to be the only meat for dinner. The broiling
-began at 2.0, and the tablecloth was removed at 3.30. In
-1785 the Prince of Wales, in 1790 the Duke of York, in
-1808 the Duke of Sussex, became members. It had a
-laureate bard in the person of Charles Morris, elected a
-member in 1785, who died in 1838 at the age of 93 years.
-In early times the members appeared in the uniform of
-a blue coat and buff waistcoat, with brass buttons bearing
-a gridiron and the motto "Beef and Liberty." The hour
-of meeting became later gradually, till in 1866 it was
-fixed at 8 o'clock; then the club quickly died out.
-Founded by John Rich, harlequin and machinist at
-Covent Garden, it had counted among its members William
-Hogarth, David Garrick, John Wilkes, John Kemble,
-William Linley, Henry Brougham (Lord Chancellor), and
-many other distinguished men. The Ettrick Shepherd
-gave an account, in 1833, of a visit he paid to this club:—</p>
-
-<div class="blockquot">
-
-<p>"They dine solely on beefsteaks—but what glorious beefsteaks! They
-do not come up all at once—no, nor half-a-dozen times; but up they come
-at long intervals, thick, tender, and as hot as fire. And during these
-intervals the members sit drinking their port, and breaking their wicked
-wit on each other, so that every time a new service of steaks came up,
-we fell to them with much the same zest as at the beginning. The dinner
-was a perfect treat—a feast without alloy."</p></div>
-
-<p>Another somewhat similar club, though on a more
-modest scale, deserves a cursory notice, inasmuch as it had
-to do with a state of things that has passed away beyond
-hope of recovery. About 1870 the August Society of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">{101}</a></span>
-the Wanderers was established with the motto, "Pransuri
-vagamur." It selected all the remaining old inns at
-which a dinner could be obtained, and dined at each in
-succession. It also had a bard, Dr. Joseph Samuel Lavies,
-and, like the Beefsteaks, has left a poetic record of its
-convivialities. Of all such records, however, the salt
-quickly evaporates, and it is as well to leave them
-unquoted.</p>
-
-<p>Our main object in this chapter is to state a few
-incidents in the history of some of the great London clubs.
-The oldest existing club appears to be White's, founded
-in 1697. Boodle's, Brooks's, the Cocoa Tree, and Arthur's
-date from 1762 to 1765. Most of the others belong to
-the nineteenth century. The Guards' Club, which was
-the first of the service clubs, dates from 1813, but that
-is confined to officers of the Brigade of Guards. It was
-soon, however, followed by the establishment of a club
-for officers of other branches of military service.</p>
-
-<p>We have it on good authority that before that club
-was founded officers who came to London had no places
-of call but the old hotels and coffee-houses. On May 31st,
-1815, General Lord Lynedoch, Viscount Hill, and others
-united in the establishment of a General Military Club.
-On the 24th January, 1816, it was extended to the Navy,
-and on the 16th February in the same year it adopted
-the name of the United Service Club. On the 1st March,
-1817, the foundation stone of its house in Charles Street
-was laid. In November, 1828, it entered into occupation
-of its present house in Pall Mall, and handed over the
-Charles Street house to the Junior United Service Club.
-Its premises in Pall Mall were largely extended in
-1858-59, and have recently been greatly improved at a
-cost of 20,000. The Club holds a lease from the Crown
-to 4th January, 1964. It has a fine collection of eighty-two
-pictures and busts, many of them of great merit as works
-of art, others of interest as the only portraits of the
-originals. The library contains several splendid portraits<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">{102}</a></span>
-of Royal personages. The King is the patron of the
-Club, and, as Prince of Wales, was a member of it. The
-Prince of Wales, the Duke of Connaught, and Prince
-Christian, are now members. Ten high officers of state
-and persons of distinction are honorary members. Twelve
-kings and thirty princes are foreign honorary members.
-The number of ordinary members is 1,600, but officers
-below the rank of Commander in the Royal Navy, or
-Major in the Army, are not eligible. The entrance fee
-is 30, and the annual subscription 10. Members have
-the privilege of introducing guests. Games of hazard are
-not allowed to be played, or dice to be used. Play is
-not to exceed 2s. 6d. points at whist, or 10s. per hundred
-at bridge.</p>
-
-<p>As we have seen, this club shortly became full, and
-a Junior United Service Club was formed in April, 1827,
-on the same lines, under the patronage of the Duke of
-Wellington, but admitted officers of junior rank, and in
-1828 entered into occupation of the premises in Charles
-Street, vacated by the Senior, on payment of 15,000. It
-erected its new house in 1856 at a cost of 81,000. The
-entrance fee is 40, and annual subscription eight guineas.
-It was not many years after its establishment that the
-list of candidates for membership of the Junior Club
-became so long that the necessity for the establishment
-of a third service club was felt. Sir E. Barnes and a few
-officers, just returned from India, joined in the movement,
-and in 1838 the Army and Navy Club was opened at
-the corner of King Street and St. James's Square—the
-house memorable as the scene of the party given by
-Mrs. Boehm on the night the news of the Battle of
-Waterloo arrived. Sir E. Barnes, who was its first
-president, died the same year. In 1851 the club moved
-to its present stately building, the site of which includes
-that of a house granted by Charles II. on the 1st of
-April, in the seventeenth year of his reign, to Nell
-Gwynne, where Evelyn saw him in familiar discourse with<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">{103}</a></span>
-her. The club possesses a mirror that belonged to her,
-and a portrait by Sir Peter Lely, which was supposed
-to be of her, until it was discovered to be one of Louise
-de Querouaille, Duchess of Portsmouth, and is also rich
-in pictures, statuary, and other works of art—among them,
-two fine mantelpieces carved by Canova, and a miniature
-of Lady Hamilton found in Lord Nelson's cabin after
-his death; it has also autograph letters of Nelson and
-Wellington. It derives its popular name of the "Rag
-and Famish" from a tradition that Captain Duff came
-late one night asking for supper, and being discontented
-with the bill of fare, called it a rag and
-famish affair. In memory of the event he designed
-a button which used to be worn by many members,
-and bore the device of a ragged man devouring
-a bone. Napoleon III. was an honorary member of the
-club, and frequently used it. He presented it with a fine
-piece of Gobelin tapestry in 1849. The regular number
-of members is 2,400. The club has a scheme for granting
-annuities or pensions to its servants.</p>
-
-<p>Of the group of social clubs bearing names derived
-from the original proprietors of the club-houses—as
-White's, Boodle's, Brooks's, and Arthur's—Brooks's may
-be taken as a specimen. A roll of its members from the
-date of its foundation in 1764 to 1900 has recently been
-published under the title <i>Memorials of Brooks's</i>, and
-contains much interesting information. The editors,
-Messrs. V. A. Williamson, S. Lyttelton and S. Simeon,
-state that the first London Clubs were instituted with the
-object of providing the world of fashion with a central
-office for making wagers, and a registry for recording
-them. In their early days gambling was unlimited.
-Brooks's was not political in its origin. The twenty-seven
-original members included the Dukes of Roxburgh,
-Portland, and Gordon. In the 136 years 3,465 members
-have been admitted.</p>
-
-<p>The original house was on or near the site of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">{104}</a></span>
-present Marlborough Club, and Almack was the first
-manager or master. About 1774 he was succeeded by
-Brooks, from whom the club derives its name. He died
-in 1782, and was succeeded by one Griffin. In 1795 the
-system was altered, and six managers were appointed.
-The present house in St. James' Street was constructed
-in 1889-90, when 2, Park Place, was incorporated with it.
-The entrance fee in 1791 was five guineas, and was raised
-successively in 1815, 1881, 1892, and 1901, to nine, fifteen,
-twenty-five and thirty guineas. The subscription was at
-first four guineas, raised in 1779 to eight guineas, and in
-1791 to ten guineas.</p>
-
-<p>An offshoot of Brooks's is the Fox Club, a dining club,
-probably a continuation of an earlier Whig Club. Up
-to 1843 it met at the Clarendon Hotel, and since then at
-Brooks's. It is said to have been constituted for the
-purpose of paying Fox's debts, for which his friends, in
-1793, raised 70,000. Sir Augustus Keppel Stephenson
-was the secretary of this club from 1867 until his death
-in 1904. He was the son of a distinguished member of
-Brooks's, who had joined that club in 1818, the Fox
-Club in 1829, was secretary of the Sublime Society of
-Beef Steaks, and the last man to wear Hessian boots.</p>
-
-<p>The Travellers' Club dates from 1819, the Union from
-1821, and the United University from 1822.</p>
-
-<p>The Union Club is composed of noblemen, members
-of Parliament, and gentlemen of the first distinction and
-character who are British subjects, and has 1,250 members.
-Election is by open voting in the committee. Foreign
-and Colonial persons of distinction may be made
-temporary honorary members. The entrance fee is
-twenty-one guineas; the annual subscription ten guineas.</p>
-
-
-<p>The United University Club has 1,000 members, of
-whom 500 belong to Oxford and 500 to Cambridge. The
-King is a member. Cabinet ministers, bishops, judges,
-etc., may be admitted without ballot. All members of
-either University are qualified to be candidates, but only<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">{105}</a></span>
-graduates, persons who have resided in college or hall
-for two years, holders of honorary degrees, and students
-in civil law of above three years' standing, are qualified
-to be members. The club has recently rebuilt its house
-at the corner of Suffolk Street and Pall Mall East.</p>
-
-<p>The Athenum was originated by Mr. John Wilson
-Croker, after consultation with Sir Humphry Davy,
-president of the Royal Society, and was founded in 1824
-for the association of individuals known for their scientific
-or literary attainments, artists of eminence in any class
-of the fine arts, and noblemen and gentlemen distinguished
-as liberal patrons of science, literature, or the arts. It
-is essential to the maintenance of the Athenum, in
-conformity with the principles upon which it was originally
-founded, that the annual introduction of a certain number
-of persons of distinguished eminence in science, literature,
-or the arts, or for public services, should be secured.
-Accordingly, nine persons of such qualifications are
-elected by the committee each year. The club entrusts
-this privilege to the committee, in the entire confidence
-that they will only elect persons who shall have attained
-to distinguished eminence in science, literature, or the arts,
-or for public services. The General Committee may also
-elect princes of the blood Royal, cabinet ministers,
-bishops, speakers of the House of Commons, judges, and
-foreign ambassadors, or ministers plenipotentiary of not
-less than three years' residence at the Court of St. James's,
-to be extraordinary members; and may invite, as honorary
-members during temporary residence in England, the
-heads of foreign missions, foreign members of the Royal
-Society, and not more than fifteen other foreigners or
-colonists of distinction. The ordinary members of the
-club are 1,200 in number. The entrance fee is thirty
-guineas, and the annual subscription eight guineas. The
-presidents for the time being of the Royal Society, of
-the Society of Antiquaries, and of the Royal Academy
-of Arts, if members, are ex-officio members of the General<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">{106}</a></span>
-Committee. An Executive Committee of nine is selected
-from the General Committee to manage the domestic and
-other ordinary affairs of the club. No elected member
-can remain on the General Committee more than three
-consecutive years, unless he is a member of the Executive
-Committee, in which case he may be re-elected for a
-second term of three years. No higher stake than half-a-guinea
-points shall be played for. No game of mere
-chance shall be played in the house for money. No
-member shall make use of the club as an address in any
-advertisement.</p>
-
-<p>The history of the club has been told by the Rev.
-J. G. Waugh in an interesting book printed for private
-circulation in 1900. Its first house was 12, Waterloo
-Place, where it remained until 1827, when it obtained its
-present site. Its success was so great that within four
-months of the preliminary meeting in 1824 it had a list
-of 506 members, including the then Prime Minister and
-seven persons who afterwards became Prime Ministers.
-By 1827 it was full, and had a list of 270 candidates
-waiting for election. The present house was planned by
-Decimus Burton, and an attic storey was added to it in
-1899-1900. It is a successful building, striking attention
-by the statue of Minerva over the porch, the frieze, and
-the noble hall and grand staircase. The hall was re-decorated
-in 1891 under the direction of Sir L. Alma
-Tadema. Originally, a soire was held every Wednesday,
-to which ladies were admitted. That has long been discontinued,
-and, as a satirical member observed, "Minerva
-is kept out in the cold, while her owls are gorging within."
-Among the members of the club have been the following
-great actors: Macready, Mathews, Kemble, Terry, Kean,
-Young, and Irving.</p>
-
-<p>The Oriental Club was also established in 1824, at
-a meeting held eight days after that at which the
-Athenum had been established. Sir John Malcolm
-presided. The club was intended for the benefit of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">{107}</a></span>
-persons who had been long resident abroad in the service
-of the Crown, or of the East India Company. By May,
-1826, it had 928 members, and in that year it took
-possession of the site of 18, Hanover Square, and employed
-Mr. B. D. Wyatt as the architect of its house. Its history
-has been written by Mr. Alexander F. Baillie, in a book
-published in 1901. Mr. Wyatt provided a grand staircase,
-but no smoking-room, and only one billiard-room.
-At that time and until 1842 the club provided its members
-gratuitously with snuff at a cost of 25 per year. In 1874
-the present smoking-room was opened; and now the
-handsome drawing-room is a place where those can retire
-who desire solitude, and the smoking-room and billiard-rooms
-are overcrowded. The club has a fine library.
-It claims among its members the prototype of Colonel
-Newcome. The members have a custom of securing a
-table for dinner by inverting a plate upon it.</p>
-
-<p>In 1855 the Oriental Club agreed to take over, without
-entrance fee, the members of the Alfred Club, which had
-been established in 1808, and was then being dissolved.
-Nearly 400 members availed themselves of the
-offer. The history of that club has some points of
-interest. It was largely intended for literary men, but
-it is said that Canning, vexed at overhearing a member
-asking who he was, gave it the nickname of the "Half-read"
-Club, which stuck to it. Its early career was
-prosperous, and by 1811 it had 354 candidates
-and only six vacancies; but its popularity waned.
-The real cause of its dissolution was the firm
-conservatism of the committee. They would not
-recognise the growing demand of accommodation for
-smokers. The clubhouse, No. 23, Albemarle Street, had
-been built and arranged in the days when no such
-accommodation had been considered necessary, and the
-committee resolutely refused to make any concession
-to the members who desired to smoke.</p>
-
-<p>The Garrick Club was founded in 1831. It was<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">{108}</a></span>
-instituted for the general patronage of the drama; for
-the purpose of combining the use of a club on economical
-principles with the advantage of a literary society; for
-bringing together the supporters of the drama; and for
-the foundation of a national library, with works on
-costume. The number of members is limited to 650,
-who pay an entrance fee of twenty guineas, and an annual
-subscription of ten guineas. The club is more than
-usually hospitable, as it allows a member to invite three
-visitors to dinner, and admits the public to see its
-magnificent collection of dramatic pictures daily from
-10 to 1.</p>
-
-<p>The Carlton Club was established in 1832. It is
-famous as the rallying ground for the Conservative party,
-the temple of Toryism. From it, and its resources,
-candidates in that interest derive much encouragement
-and support, and it may not unreasonably be inferred that
-some of that encouragement and support is material as
-well as moral.</p>
-
-<p>The Reform Club was established in 1837, and then
-held the same position towards the Liberal party. It
-was instituted for the purpose of promoting the social
-intercourse of the Reformers of the United Kingdom.
-All candidates are to declare themselves to be reformers,
-but no definition of a "reformer" is given. If, however,
-a member is believed not to be a reformer, fifty members
-may call a general meeting for his expulsion. Members
-of Parliament and peers may be admitted by general
-ballot, with priority of election. The committee elect
-each year two gentlemen of distinguished eminence for
-public service, or in science, literature, or arts. The
-Political Committee of fifty members elect each year
-two persons who have proved their attachment to the
-Liberal cause by marked and obvious services. Other
-members are elected by general ballot, one black
-ball in ten excluding. The club has 1,400 members. It
-has a fine library. It has liberal regulations as to the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">{109}</a></span>
-admission of guests, and ladies may be admitted to view
-the club from 11.0 a.m. to 5.0 p.m. Members may inspect
-the books and accounts and take extracts from them.
-The admission fee is 40, and the annual subscription
-ten guineas.</p>
-
-<p>The Conservative Club was established in 1840, and
-the National Club in 1845. The object of the National
-Club is to promote Protestant principles, and to encourage
-united action among Protestants in political and social
-questions by establishing a central organisation to obtain
-and spread information on such questions, by affording
-facilities for conference thereon, and by providing in the
-metropolis a central place of meeting to devise the fittest
-means for promoting the object in view. Its members
-must hold the doctrines and principles of the reformed
-faith, as revealed in Holy Scripture, asserted at the
-Reformation, and generally embodied in the Articles of
-the Church of England. It has a general committee,
-house committee, library committee, prayer and religious
-committee, wine committee, finance committee, and
-Parliamentary committee. The General Committee has
-power to elect as honorary members of the club not
-more than twenty persons distinguished by their zeal and
-exertions on behalf of the Protestant cause; these are
-mostly clergymen. All meetings of committees are to
-be opened with prayer. The household are to attend the
-reading of the Word of God and prayers morning and
-evening in the committee room. The Parliamentary
-committee are to watch all proceedings in Parliament and
-elsewhere affecting the Protestant principles of the club.
-Its fundamental principles are declared to be:</p>
-
-<div class="blockquot">
-
-<p>(1) The maintenance of the Protestant constitution,
-succession, and faith.</p>
-
-<p>(2) The recognition of Holy Scripture in national
-education.</p>
-
-<p>(3) The improvement of the moral and social
-condition of the people.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">{110}</a></span></p></div>
-
-<p>The club is singular in having these definite religious
-purposes, and no doubt has in its time done much for
-the Protestant cause; but there is a little incongruity
-between the earnestness of its purpose and the self-indulgence
-which club life almost necessarily implies;
-and religious opinion, which claims to be the most stable
-of all things, is really one of the most fluid. Most men,
-who think at all, pass through many phases of it in their
-lives. It would not be surprising if this early earnestness
-had somewhat cooled down.</p>
-
-<p>Another group of clubs consists of those the
-members of which are bound together by a common
-interest in some athletic sport or pursuit—as the Marylebone
-Cricket Club, which dates from 1787; the Alpine
-Club, which was founded in 1857; the Hurlingham Club,
-in 1868; and to these may perhaps be added, as approximating
-to the same class, the Bath Club, 1894.</p>
-
-<p>The gradual filling up of old clubs, which we observed
-in the case of the service clubs, and the congested state
-of their lists of candidates, leading to long delay before
-an intending member had the chance of election, has led
-to the establishment of junior clubs; thus, in 1864, the
-Junior Athenum and the Junior Carlton were founded.</p>
-
-<p>A further development has been the establishment
-of clubs for women. The Albemarle Club, founded in
-1874, admits both men and women, and adjusts its lists
-of candidates so as to provide for the election of nearly
-equal numbers of both.</p>
-
-<p>The Marlborough Club should also be mentioned
-specially, as it was founded by the King, and no person
-can be admitted a member except upon His Majesty's
-special approval.</p>
-
-<p>The Authors' Club was established in 1891 by the
-late Sir Walter Besant, and is especially noted for its
-house dinners, at which some person of distinction is
-invited to be the guest of the club.</p>
-
-<p>Altogether, the clubs of London are very numerous,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">{111}</a></span>
-and we have only been able to draw attention to
-the peculiarities of a few of them. Like every other
-human institution, they are subject to continual
-change, and there are pessimists who go about saying
-that they are decaying and losing their popularity
-and their usefulness. The long lists of candidates
-on the books of the principal clubs do not lend much
-colour to this suggestion. Social habits alter with every
-generation of men, and it is possible that many men do
-not use their clubs in the same way that the founders
-did, but the fact remains that they do use them, and that
-clubs still form centres of pleasure and convenience to
-many.</p>
-
-<p>One particular in which the change of social habits
-is especially noticeable is with respect to gaming. This,
-as we have seen, was almost the <i>raison d'tre</i> of some
-of the early clubs, and there are numerous tales of the
-recklessness with which it was pursued, and the fortunes
-lost and won at the gaming table. We have quoted from
-one or two clubs the regulations which now prevail, and
-similar regulations are adopted in most of the other clubs.
-Games of chance are wholly prohibited; and limits are
-provided to the amount that may be staked on games of
-cards. Each club has also a billiard room.</p>
-
-<p>With respect to smoking, the habitus of clubs have
-experienced a great change. Formerly the smoking
-room, if any, was small and far away; now the luxury
-of the club is concentrated in it, and the question is
-rather in what rooms smoking is not to be allowed. Very
-few clubs retain the old tradition that smoking is a thing
-to be discouraged and kept out of sight.</p>
-
-<p>Other signs of change are the increase in the cost
-of membership and the later hours for dining. It need
-hardly be said that the clubs pay great attention to their
-kitchens. We have it on the authority of Major A.
-Griffiths (<i>Fortnightly Review</i>, April, 1907) that the
-salary of the chef is between 200 and 300 a year.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">{112}</a></span></p>
-
-<p>The customs of the clubs with regard to the admission
-of visitors vary. At one end of the scale is the Athenum,
-which will not allow its members to give a stranger even
-a cup of cold water, and allows of conversation with
-strangers only in the open hall or in a small room by the
-side of the doorway. At the other end are clubs which
-provide special rooms for the entertainment of visitors,
-and encourage their members to treat their friends
-hospitably, and to show them what the club is able to
-do in the matter of cooking and wines.</p>
-
-<p>The social ethics of clubs vary in like manner. In
-some clubs, notably those of the Bohemian type, but
-including several which would claim not to belong to that
-group, mere membership of the club is a sufficient
-introduction to justify a member in addressing another,
-and conversation in the common rooms of the club
-becomes general. This is delightful—within limits: it
-is not always possible to create by the atmosphere of the
-club a sentiment that will restrain all its members from
-sometimes overstepping those bounds of mutual courtesy
-and consideration which alone can make such general
-conversation altogether pleasant. The greater clubs go
-to the opposite extreme, and members of them may meet
-day after day for many years in perfect unconsciousness
-of the existence of each other; yet, even in these, the
-association of those who know each other outside the
-club, but without its opportunities would rarely meet,
-though they have similar interests and pursuits, is a very
-desirable and useful thing. Many an excellent measure,
-originating in the mind of one member, has been matured
-by conversation with others, to the general good. So may
-the Clubs of London continue to prosper and flourish.</p></div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113">{113}</a></span></p>
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-<div class="chapter">
-<h2><a name="THE_INNS_OF_OLD_LONDON" id="THE_INNS_OF_OLD_LONDON">THE INNS OF OLD LONDON</a></h2>
-
-<p class='p3'><span class="smcap">By Philip Norman, LL.D.</span></p>
-
-
-
-<div>
-<img class="drop-cap" src="images/drop-t.png" width="100" height="118" alt="" />
-</div>
-
-<p class="drop-cap">To write a detailed account of London inns and
-houses of entertainment generally would
-require not a few pages, but several volumes.
-The inns, first established to supply the modest
-wants of an unsophisticated age, came by degrees to fulfil
-the functions of our modern hotels, railway stations, and
-parcel offices; they were places of meeting for business
-and social entertainment—in short, they formed a
-necessary part of the life of all Londoners, and of all
-who resorted to London, except the highest and the lowest.
-The taverns, successors of medival cook-shops, were
-frequented by most of the leading spirits of each
-generation from Elizabethan times to the early part
-of the nineteenth century, and their place has now been
-taken by clubs and restaurants. About these a mass of
-information is available, also on coffee-houses, a development
-of the taverns, in which, for the most part, they were
-gradually merged. As to the various forms of public-house,
-their whimsical signs alone have amused literary
-men, and perhaps their readers, from the time of <i>The
-Spectator</i> until now. In this chapter I propose to confine
-my remarks to the inns "for receipt of travellers," so
-often referred to by John Stow in his <i>Survey of London</i>,
-which, largely established in the fifteenth and sixteenth
-centuries, continued on the same sites, mostly until years
-after the advent of railways had caused a social revolution.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114">{114}</a></span>
-These inns, with rare exceptions, had a galleried
-courtyard, a plan of building also common on the
-Continent, which came perhaps originally from the East.
-In such courtyards, as we shall see, during Tudor times
-theatrical performances often took place, and in form
-they probably gave a hint to the later theatres.</p>
-
-<p>Before the fifteenth century it was usual for
-travellers to seek the hospitality of religious houses, the
-great people being lodged in rooms set apart for them,
-while the poorer sort found shelter in the guest-house.
-But as time went on this proved inadequate, and inns on
-a commercial basis came into existence, being frequented
-by those who could hardly demand special consideration
-from the religious houses, and were not fitting recipients
-of charity. Naturally enough, these inns, when once their
-usefulness became recognised, were soon to be found in
-the main thoroughfares leading out of the metropolis, and
-they were particularly plentiful in Southwark on each side
-of what we now call the Borough High Street, extending
-for a quarter of a mile or more from London Bridge along
-the main road to the south-eastern counties and the
-Continent. The first thus established, and one of the
-earliest in this country, had to some extent a religious
-origin—namely, the</p>
-
-<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
-<span class="i20">"Gentle hostelrye<br /></span>
-<span class="i0">That hight the Tabard, fast by the Belle,"<br /></span>
-</div></div>
-
-<p>about which and about the Southwark inns generally I
-propose now to say a few words, for although well known,
-they are of such extreme interest that they demand a
-foremost place in an account of this kind. From the
-literary point of view the "Tabard" is immortalized, owing
-to the fact that Chaucer has selected it as the starting-point
-of his pilgrims in <i>The Canterbury Tales</i>. Historically,
-it may be mentioned that as early as the year 1304 the
-Abbot and Convent of Hyde, near Winchester, purchased
-in Southwark two tenements, on the sites of which he
-built for himself a town dwelling, and at the same time,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115">{115}</a></span>
-it is believed, a hostelry for the convenience of travellers.
-In 1307 he obtained license to build a chapel at or by
-the inn, and in a later deed we are told that "the abbott's
-lodginge was wyninge to the backside of the Tabarde
-and had a garden attached." From that time onwards
-frequent allusions can be found to this house, the sign
-of which (a sleeveless coat, such as that worn by heralds)
-got somehow corrupted into the Talbot, a species of dog,
-by which it was known for a couple of centuries or more,
-almost to the time of its final destruction. Although the
-contrary has been asserted, the inn was undoubtedly burnt
-in the Great Southwark Fire of 1676, but was rebuilt
-soon afterwards in the old fashion, and continued to be
-a picturesque example of architecture until 1875, when
-the whole was swept away, hop merchants' offices and
-a modern "old Tabard" now occupying the site.</p>
-
-<p>Equal in interest to the last-named inn was the "White
-Hart." At the one Chaucer gave life and reality to a
-fancied scene; at the other occurred an historical event,
-the bald facts of which Shakespeare has lighted up with
-a halo of romance. The White Hart appears to have
-dated from the latter part of the fourteenth century,
-the sign being a badge of Richard II., derived from his
-mother, Joan of Kent. In the summer of 1450 it was
-Jack Cade's headquarters while he was striving to gain
-possession of London. Hall, in his <i>Chronicle</i>, records this,
-and adds that he prohibited "murder, rape and robbery by
-which colour he allured to him the hartes of the common
-people." It was here, nevertheless, that "one Hawaydyne
-of sent Martyns was beheaded," and here, during
-the outbreak, a servant of Sir John Fastolf, who had
-property in the neighbourhood, was with difficulty saved
-from assassination. His chattels were pillaged, his wife
-left with "no more gode but her kyrtyll and her smook,"
-and he thrust into the forefront of a fight then raging
-on London Bridge, where he was "woundyd and hurt
-nere hand to death." Cade's success was of short duration;<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_116" id="Page_116">{116}</a></span>
-his followers wavered, he said, or might have said, in the
-words attributed to him by Shakespeare (2 Henry VI.,
-act iv., scene 8), "Hath my sword therefore broken
-through London gate that you should leave me at the
-White Hart in Southwark?" The rebellion collapsed,
-and our inn is not heard of for some generations. Want
-of space prevents our recording the various vicissitudes
-through which it passed, and the historic names connected
-with it, until the time of the Southwark Fire of 1676,
-when, like the "Tabard," it was burnt down, but rebuilt
-on the old foundations. In 1720 Strype describes it as
-large and of considerable trade, and it so continued until
-the time when Dickens, who was intimately acquainted
-with the neighbourhood, gave his graphic description of
-Sam Weller at the White Hart in the tenth chapter of
-<i>Pickwick</i>. In 1865-66 the south side of the building was
-replaced by a modern tavern, but the old galleries on
-the north and east sides remained until 1889, being
-latterly let out in tenements.</p>
-
-<p>There were several other galleried inns in Southwark,
-dating at least from the time of Queen Elizabeth, which
-survived until the nineteenth century, but we only have
-space briefly to allude to three. The "King's Head" and
-the "Queen's Head" was each famous in its way. The
-former had been originally the "Pope's Head," the sign
-being changed at the Reformation. In 1534 the Abbot
-of Waverley, whose town house was not far off, writes,
-apparently on business, that he will be at the "Pope's
-Head" in Southwark—eight years afterwards it appears
-as the "King's Head." In a deed belonging to Mr. G. Eliot
-Hodgkin, F.S.A., the two names are given. In the
-sixteenth and seventeenth centuries the house belonged
-to various noteworthy people; among the rest, to Thomas
-Cure, a local benefactor, and to Humble, Lord Ward. It
-was burnt in the Great Southwark Fire, and the last
-fragment of the galleried building, erected immediately
-afterwards, was pulled down in January, 1885.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_117" id="Page_117">{117}</a></span></p>
-
-<p>The "Queen's Head" was the only one of the
-Southwark houses we are describing that escaped the
-Fire of 1676, perhaps owing to the fact that, by way
-of precaution, a tenement was blown up at the gateway.
-It stood on the site of a house called the "Crowned
-or Cross Keys," which in 1529 was an armoury or
-store-place for the King's harness. In 1558 it had a
-brew-house attached to it, and had lately been rebuilt.
-In 1634 the house had become the "Queen's Head," and
-the owner was John Harvard, of Emmanuel College,
-Cambridge, who afterwards migrated to America, and
-gave his name to Harvard University, Massachusetts.
-About this time it was frequented by carriers, as we learn
-from John Taylor, "the water-poet." The main building,
-destroyed in 1895, was found to be of half-timbered
-construction, dating perhaps from the sixteenth century.
-A galleried portion, also of considerable age, survived
-until the year 1900.</p>
-
-<p>Of another Southwark inn, the "George," we can
-fortunately speak in the present tense. It seems to have
-come into existence in the early part of the sixteenth
-century, and is mentioned with the sign of "St. George"
-in 1554:—</p>
-
-<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
-<span class="i0">"St. George that swindg'd the Dragon, and e'er since<br /></span>
-<span class="i0">Sits on his horseback at mine hostess' door."<br /></span>
-</div></div>
-
-<p>The owner in 1558 was Humfrey Colet, or Collet, who
-had been Member of Parliament for Southwark. Soon
-after the middle of the seventeenth century, in a book
-called <i>Musarum Delici, or the Muses' Recreation</i>, compiled
-by Sir John Mennes (Admiral and Chief Comptroller
-of the Navy) and Dr. James Smith, appeared some lines,
-"upon a surfeit caught by drinking bad sack at 'the
-George' in Southwark." Perhaps the landlord mended
-his ways; in any case, the rent was shortly afterwards
-150 a year—a large sum for those days. The "George"
-was a great coaching and carriers' inn. Only a fragment<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_118" id="Page_118">{118}</a></span>
-of it, but a picturesque one, now exists; it is still galleried,
-and dates from shortly after the Southwark Fire of 1676.
-The rest of the building was pulled down in 1889-90.
-All the inns to which allusion has been made were
-clustered together on the east side of the Borough High
-Street, the gateways of those most distant from each
-other being only about 140 yards apart.</p>
-
-<p>Another leading thoroughfare from London to the
-east was the road through Aldgate to Whitechapel. Here,
-though the houses of entertainment were historically far
-less interesting than those of Southwark, they flourished
-for many years. Where a modern hotel with the same
-sign now stands, next to the Metropolitan railway station
-on the north side of Aldgate High Street, there was once
-a well-known inn, the "Three Nuns," so called, perhaps,
-from the contiguity of the nuns of St. Clare, or <i>sorores
-minores</i>, who gave a name to the Minories. The
-"Three Nuns" inn is mentioned by Defoe in his <i>Journal
-of the Plague</i>, which, though it describes events that
-happened when he was little more than an infant, has
-an air of authenticity suggesting personal experience.
-We are told by him that near this inn was the "dreadful
-gulf—for such it was rather than a pit"—in which, during
-the Plague of 1665, not less than 1,114 bodies were buried
-in a fortnight, from the 6th to the 20th of September.
-Throughout the eighteenth and the early part of the
-nineteenth centuries this house was much frequented by
-coaches and carriers. The late Mr. Edwin Edwards, who
-etched it in 1871, was told by the landlord that a four-horse
-coach was then running from there to Southend
-during the summer months. A painting of the holy nuns
-still appeared on the sign-board. The house was rebuilt
-soon after the formation of the Metropolitan Railway.
-A short distance west of the "Three Nuns," at 31, Aldgate
-High Street, the premises of Messrs. Adkin and Sons,
-wholesale tobacconists, occupy the site of the old "Blue
-Boar" coaching inn, which they replaced in 1861. The<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119">{119}</a></span>
-sculptured sign of the "Blue Boar," let into the wall
-in front, was put up at the time of the rebuilding. The
-former inn, described on a drawing in the Crace collection
-as the oldest in London, is held by some to be the same
-as that referred to in an order of the Privy Council to
-the Lord Mayor, dated from St. James's, September 5th,
-1557, wherein he is told to "apprehende and to comitt
-to safe warde" certain actors who are about to perform
-in "a lewde Playe called a Sacke full of Newse" at
-the "Boar's Head" without Aldgate.</p>
-
-<p>A few years ago, at No. 25, the entrance might still
-be seen of another famous inn called the "Bull," formerly
-the "Black Bull." Above the gateway was a fine piece
-of ironwork, and the old painted sign was against the
-wall of the passage. This house flourished greatly a
-little before the advent of railways, when Mrs. Anne
-Nelson, coach proprietor, was the landlady, and could
-make up nearly two hundred beds there. Most of her
-business was to Essex and Suffolk, but she also owned
-the Exeter coach. She must have been landlady on the
-memorable occasion when Mr. Pickwick arrived in a cab
-after "two mile o' danger at eightpence," and it was
-through this very gateway that he and his companions
-were driven by the elder Weller when they started on
-their adventurous journey to Ipswich. The house is now
-wholly destroyed and the yard built over.</p>
-
-<p>A common sign in former days was the "Saracen's
-Head." We shall have occasion to refer to several in
-London. One of them stood by Aldgate, just within
-the limits of the city. Here a block of old buildings
-is in existence on the south side, which once formed
-the front of a well-known coaching inn, with this sign.
-The spacious inn yard remains, the house on the east
-side of its entrance having fine pilasters. From the
-"Saracen's Head," Aldgate, coaches plied to Norwich as
-long ago as 1681, and here there is, or was quite recently,
-a carrier's booking office.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_120" id="Page_120">{120}</a></span></p>
-
-<p>Another thoroughfare which, within the memory of
-some who hardly admit that they are past middle age, contained
-several famous inns, was that leading to the north,
-and known in its various parts as Gracechurch Street and
-Bishopsgate Street Within and Without. One of the best
-known was the "Cross Keys" in Bishopsgate Street, mentioned
-in the preface to Dodsley's <i>Old Plays</i> as a house
-at which theatrical performances took place. It was here
-that, in the latter part of the sixteenth century, Bankes
-exhibited the extraordinary feats of his horse Marocco.
-One of them, if we may believe an old jest-book, was
-to select and draw forth Tarlton with its mouth as "the
-veriest fool in the company." In more modern times, until
-the advent of railways, the "Cross Keys" was a noted
-coaching and carriers' establishment. Destroyed in the
-Great Fire, and again burnt down in 1734, but rebuilt in
-the old style, it was still standing on the west side of the
-street, immediately south of Bell Yard, when Larwood and
-Hotten published their <i>History of Signboards</i> in 1866.
-Another inn with this sign stood appropriately near the
-site of St. Peter's Church in Wood Street, Cheapside,
-and was pulled down probably about the same time as
-the more famous house in Gracechurch Street.</p>
-
-<p>Of equal note was the "Spread Eagle," the site of
-which has mostly been absorbed by the extension of
-Leadenhall Market. Like the "Cross Keys," it was burnt
-in the Great Fire, but rebuilt in the old style with an
-ample galleried yard. In the basement some medival
-arches still remained. At the "Spread Eagle" that
-original writer George Borrow had been staying with
-his future wife, Mrs. Mary Clarke, and various friends,
-when they were married at St. Peter's Church, Cornhill,
-on April 23rd, 1840, her daughter, Henrietta, signing the
-register. Before its destruction in 1865 it had been for
-some time a receiving office of Messrs. Chaplin and Horne.
-The site, of about 1,200 square feet, was sold for no
-less a sum than 95,000. Another Gracechurch inn, the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_121" id="Page_121">{121}</a></span>
-"Tabard," which long ago disappeared, had, like the
-immortal hostelry in Southwark, become the "Talbot,"
-and its site is marked by Talbot Court.</p>
-
-<p>In Bishopsgate Street Within three galleried inns
-lingered long enough to have been often seen by the
-writer. These were the "Bull," the "Green Dragon,"
-and the "Four Swans," each with something of a history,
-and to them might be added the picturesque, though less
-important, "Vine" and the "Flower Pot," from which
-last house a seventeenth century trade token was issued.
-The "Bull," the most southern of these inns, all of which
-were on the west side of the highway, was at least as
-old as the latter part of the fifteenth century, for in
-one of the chronicles of London lately edited by
-Mr. C. L. Kingsford, I find it, under the date 1498,
-associated with a painful incident—namely, the execution
-of the son of a cordwainer, "dwellyng at the Bulle in
-Bisshoppesgate Strete," for calling himself the Earl of
-Warwick. Hall gives his name as Ralph Wilford.
-Anthony Bacon, elder brother of Francis, during the year
-1594 hired a lodging in Bishopsgate Street, but the fact
-of its being near the "Bull," where plays and interludes
-were performed, so troubled his mother that for
-her sake he removed to Chelsea. Shortly afterwards,
-as may be learnt from <i>Tarlton's Jests</i>, the old drama
-called "The Famous Victories of Henry the Fifth" was
-here played, "wherein the judge was to take a boxe on
-the eare, and because he was absent that should take
-the blow, Tarlton himselfe, ever forward to please, tooke
-upon him to play the judge, besides his own part of
-the clown." The "Bull" was the house of call of old
-Hobson, the carrier, to whose rigid rule about the letting
-of his saddle horses we are supposed to owe the phrase,
-"Hobson's Choice." Milton wrote his epitaph in the well-known
-lines beginning:—</p>
-
-<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
-<span class="i0">"Here lies old Hobson; Death hath broke his girt,<br /></span>
-<span class="i0">And here, alas! hath laid him in the dirt."<br /></span><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_122" id="Page_122">{122}</a></span>
-</div></div>
-
-<p>In his second edition of <i>Milton's Poems</i>, p. 319, Wharton
-alludes to Hobson's "portrait in fresco" as having then
-lately been in existence at the inn, and it is mentioned
-in <i>The Spectator</i>, No. 509. There is a print of it representing
-a bearded old man in hat and cloak with a money
-bag, which in the original painting had the inscription,
-"The fruitful mother of an hundred more." He
-bequeathed property for a conduit to supply Cambridge
-with water; the conduit head still exists, though not in
-its original position. In 1649, by a Council of War,
-six Puritan troopers were condemned to death for a
-mutiny at the "Bull." The house remained till 1866.</p>
-
-<p>Further north, at No. 86, was the "Green Dragon,"
-the last of the galleried inns that survived in Bishopsgate
-Street. It is mentioned in De Laune's <i>Present State of
-London</i>, 1681, as a place of resort for coachmen and
-carriers, and I have before me an advertisement sheet
-of the early nineteenth century, showing that coaches
-were then plying from here to Norwich, Yarmouth,
-Cambridge, Colchester, Ware, Hertford, Brighton, and
-many other places. There is a capital etching of the
-house by Edwin Edwards. It was closed in 1877, its
-site being soon afterwards built over. At the sale of the
-effects eleven bottles of port wine fetched 37s. 6d. each.
-The "Four Swans," immediately to the north of the inn
-last named, although it did not survive so long, remained
-to the end a more complete specimen of its class, having
-three tiers of galleries perfect on each side, and two
-tiers at the west end. The "water-poet" tells us that
-in 1637 "a waggon or coach" came here once a week
-from Hertford. Other references to it might be quoted
-from books of the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries,
-but the story told on an advertisement sheet issued by
-a former landlord about a fight here between Roundheads,
-led by Ireton, and a troop of Royalists, is apocryphal.</p>
-
-<p>Not far off, in Bishopsgate Street Without, there
-was until lately a "Two Swan" inn yard, and a "One<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123">{123}</a></span>
-Swan" with a large yard—an old place of call for carriers
-and waggons. These lingered on until the general clearance
-by the Great Eastern Railway Company a few
-years ago, when the remains of Sir Paul Pindar's mansion,
-latterly a tavern, were also removed; the finely-carved
-timber front and a stuccoed ceiling finding their way into
-the Victoria and Albert Museum. Another old Bishopsgate
-house was the "White Hart," near St. Botolph's
-Church, a picturesque building with projecting storeys,
-and in front the date 1480, but the actual structure was
-probably much less ancient. It was drawn by J. T. Smith
-and others early in the nineteenth century, and did not
-long survive. The site is still marked by White Hart
-Court. On the opposite side of the way was an inn,
-the "Dolphin," which, as Stow tells us, was given in
-1513 by Margaret Ricroft, widow, with a charge in favour
-of the Grey Friars. It disappeared in the first half of
-the eighteenth century. The old "Catherine Wheel,"
-a galleried inn hard by, mentioned by De Laune in 1681,
-was not entirely destroyed till 1894.</p>
-
-<p>Another road out of London richly furnished with
-inns was that from Newgate westward. The first one
-came to was the "Saracen's Head" on Snow Hill, an
-important house, to which the late Mr. Heckethorn
-assigned a very early origin. Whether or not it existed
-in the fourteenth century, as he asserts, it was certainly
-flourishing when Stow in his <i>Survey</i> described it as "a
-fair and large inn for receipt of travellers." It continued
-for centuries to be largely used, and here Nicholas
-Nickleby and his uncle waited on Squeers, the Yorkshire
-schoolmaster, whom Dickens must have modelled from
-various real personages. In a <i>Times</i> advertisement for
-January 3rd, 1801, I read that "at Mr. Simpson's
-Academy, Wodencroft Lodge, near Greta Bridge, Yorkshire,
-young gentlemen are boarded and accurately
-instructed in the English, Latin, and Greek languages,
-writing, arithmetic, merchants' accounts, and the most<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_124" id="Page_124">{124}</a></span>
-useful branches of the mathematics, at 16 guineas per
-annum, if under nine years of age, and above that age
-17 guineas; French taught by a native of France at
-1 guinea extra. Mr. Simpson is now in town, and may
-be treated with from eleven till two o'clock every day at
-the 'Saracen's Head,' Snow Hill." In the early part
-of last century the landlady was Sarah Ann Mountain,
-coach proprietor, and worthy rival of Mrs. Nelson,
-of the "Bull" Inn, Aldgate. The "Saracen's Head"
-disappeared in the early part of 1868, when this neighbourhood
-was entirely changed by the formation of
-the Holborn Viaduct. Another Snow Hill inn was the
-"George," or "George and Dragon," mentioned by
-Strype as very large and of considerable trade. A
-sculptured sign from there is in the Guildhall Museum.</p>
-
-<p>In Holborn there were once nine or ten galleried inns.
-We will only allude to those still in existence within the
-memory of the writer. The most famous of them,
-perhaps, was the "George and Blue Boar," originally the
-"Blue Boar," the site of which is covered by the Inns
-of Court Hotel. The house is named in the burial
-register of St. Andrew's, Holborn, as early as 1616, but
-it is chiefly known from a story related by the Rev.
-Thomas Morrice, in his <i>Memoir of Roger Earl of Orrery</i>
-(1742), that Cromwell and Ireton, in the disguise of
-troopers, here intercepted a letter sewn in the flap of
-a saddle from Charles I. to his Queen, in which he wrote
-that he was being courted by the Scotch Presbyterians
-and the army, and that he thought of closing with the
-former. Cromwell is supposed to have said, "From that
-time forward we resolved on his ruin." The writer
-ventured to ask that excellent historian, Dr. Samuel
-Gardiner, what he thought of the statement. In August,
-1890, he most kindly replied by letter as follows:—"The
-tale has generally been repudiated without enquiry, and
-I am rather inclined to believe, at least, in its substantial
-accuracy. The curious thing is, that there are two lines<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_125" id="Page_125">{125}</a></span>
-of tradition about intercepted letters, as it seems to me
-quite distinct." We may, therefore, without being over
-credulous, cherish the belief that the picturesque incident
-referred to was one that actually occurred. There is an
-advertisement of December 27th, 1779, offering the lease
-of the "George and Blue Boar," which helps us to realize
-the value and capacity of an important inn of that period.
-We are told that it contains forty bedrooms, stabling for
-fifty-two horses, seven coach-houses, and a dry ride sixty
-yards long; also that it returns about 2,000 a year.
-In George Colman the younger's "Heir at Law," act i.,
-scene 2, this house is said by one of the characters to
-be "in tumble downish kind of a condition," but it
-survived until 1864, when it made way for the Inns of
-Court Hotel.</p>
-
-<p>A group of inns which remained more recently were
-Ridler's "Bell and Crown," the old "Bell," and the
-"Black Bull," all on the north side of Holborn. Of these,
-the most picturesque was the "Bell," about which I have
-been able to ascertain some curious facts. The earliest
-notice of it that has come to light was on the 14th of
-March, 1538, when William Barde sold a messuage with
-garden called the "Bell," in the parish of St. Andrew,
-Holborn, to Richard Hunt, citizen and girdler. The latter,
-who died in 1569, gave thirty sacks of charcoal yearly
-for ever, as a charge on the property, to be distributed
-to thirty poor persons of the parish. After various
-changes of ownership, in 1679-80 it passed into the hands
-of Ralph Gregge, and his grandson sold it in 1722 to
-Christ's Hospital. In the deed of sale three houses are
-mentioned and described as "formerly one great mansion-house
-or inn known as the Bell or Blue Bell." About
-two years before, the front of the premises facing Holborn
-had been rebuilt, when the sculptured arms of Gregge
-were let into the wall in front; these arms are now at
-the Guildhall Museum. The "Bell" became a coaching
-house of considerable reputation, that part of the business<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_126" id="Page_126">{126}</a></span>
-being about the year 1836 in the hands of Messrs.
-B. W. and H. Horne, who, as coach proprietors, were
-second only to William Chaplin. For many years, until
-finally closed in September, 1897, the house was managed
-by the Bunyer family. It was the last galleried inn on the
-Middlesex side of the water, the galleries being perhaps
-as old as the reign of Charles II. A still older portion
-was a cellar built of stone immediately to the left of
-the entrance, which might almost have been medival.
-The rest of the building seems to have dated from the
-early part of the eighteenth century. There is a
-sympathetic reference to the old "Bell" by William Black
-in his <i>Strange Adventures of a Phton</i>. Another noteworthy
-"Bell" Inn was that in Carter Lane, whence
-Richard Quyney wrote in 1598 to his "loveing good ffrend
-and contreyman Mr. Willm Shackespere," the only letter
-addressed to our greatest poet which is known to exist.
-There is still a Bell yard connecting Carter Lane with
-Knightrider Street. The first scene of the <i>Harlot's
-Progress</i>, by Hogarth, is laid in front of an inn, with the
-sign of the "Bell" in Wood Street. Above the door are
-chequers.</p>
-
-<p>A short distance west of the Holborn house was
-the "Crown" Inn, latterly Ridler's "Bell and Crown,"
-destroyed about 1899. It had been a coaching centre,
-but years ago the yard was built over, and it flourished
-to the end as a quiet family hotel. Next to the "Bell"
-on the east side was the "Black Bull," the front of which,
-with the carved sign of a bull in a violent state of
-excitement, remained after the rest of the inn had disappeared,
-outliving its neighbour for a brief period. It
-was in existence for a couple of hundred years or more,
-but future generations will probably only remember it
-as the house where Mr. Lewson was taken ill, and placed
-under the tender mercies of Betsy Prig and Mrs. Gamp;
-whence also, when convalescent, he was assisted into
-a coach, Mould the undertaker eyeing him with regret<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_127" id="Page_127">{127}</a></span>
-as he felt himself baulked of a piece of legitimate
-business.</p>
-
-<p>A few short years ago if, on leaving this group of
-Holborn inns, we had turned down Fetter Lane in the
-direction of Fleet Street, after passing two or three gabled
-buildings still standing on the right hand side, we should
-have come to another old hostelry called the "White
-Horse," of which there is a well-known coloured print
-from a drawing made by Pollard in 1814, with a coach
-in front called the Cambridge Telegraph. It gradually
-fell into decay, became partly a "pub" and partly a
-common lodging-house, and with its roomy stabling at
-the back was swept away in 1897-98. Most of the
-structure was of the eighteenth century, but there were
-remains of an earlier wooden building. Its northern
-boundary touched the precinct of Barnard's Inn, an
-inn of chancery, now disestablished and adapted for the
-purposes of the Mercers' School.</p>
-
-<p>Continuing our course southward, a short walk would
-formerly have taken us to the "Bolt-in-Tun," I think
-the only coaching establishment in Fleet Street, which
-possessed so many taverns and coffee-houses. The inn
-was of ancient origin, the White Friars having had a
-grant of the "Hospitium vocatum Le Bolt en ton"
-as early as the year 1443. The sign is the well-known
-rebus on the name of Bolton, the bird-bolt through
-a tun or barrel, which was the device of a prior of
-St. Bartholomew's, Smithfield, and may still be seen in
-the church there, and at Canonbury, where the priors had
-a country house. The <i>City Press</i> for September 12th,
-1882, announces the then impending destruction of the
-"Bolt-in-Tun," and in the following year we are told
-that although a remnant of it in Fleet Street exists as
-a booking office for parcels, by far the larger portion,
-represented chiefly by the Sussex Hotel, Bouverie Street,
-which bore on it the date 1692, has just disappeared.</p>
-
-<p>Further east, on Ludgate Hill, La Belle Sauvage Yard,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_128" id="Page_128">{128}</a></span>
-where Messrs. Cassell & Co. carry on their important
-business, marks the site of an historic house, and
-perpetuates an error of nomenclature. Its original title, as
-proved by a document of the year 1452, was "Savage's"
-Inn, otherwise called the "Bell on the Hoop," but in the
-seventeenth century a trade token was issued from here,
-having on it an Indian woman holding a bow and arrow,
-and in 1676 "Bell Sauvage" Inn, on Ludgate Hill, consisting
-of about forty rooms, with good cellarage and
-stabling for about one hundred horses, was to be let.
-The mistake is repeated in <i>The Spectator</i>, No. 28, where
-we are told of a beautiful girl who was found in the
-wilderness, and whose fame was perpetuated in a French
-romance. As we learn from Howe, in his continuation
-of <i>Stow's Annals</i>, on a seat outside this inn Sir Thomas
-Wyat rested, after failing in an attempt to enter the city
-during his ill-advised rebellion in the reign of Mary
-Tudor. From Lambarde we gather that this was one
-of the houses where plays were performed before the
-time of Shakespeare. Writing in 1576, he says, "Those
-who go to Paris Garden, the Bell Savage, or the Theatre
-to behold bear-baiting, interludes, or fence play, must
-not account of any pleasant spectacle unless first they
-pay one pennie at the gate, another at the entrie of the
-scaffold, and a third for quiet standing." Here, as at
-the "Cross Keys," Gracechurch Street, Bankes exhibited
-his horse, and here, in 1683, "a very strange beast called
-a Rhynoceros—the first that ever was in England," could
-be seen daily. Stow affirms the inn to have been given
-to the Cutlers' Company by Isabella Savage; but, in
-fact, the donor was John Craythorne, who conveyed the
-reversion of it to them in 1568. The sculptured elephant
-and castle representing their crest is still on a wall in
-La Belle Sauvage Yard. The inn, which has left its
-mark in the annals of coaching, was taken down in 1873.</p>
-
-<p>A thoroughfare, formerly containing several fine
-mansions and various inns for travellers, was Aldersgate<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_129" id="Page_129">{129}</a></span>
-Street, the continuation of St. Martin's-le-Grand. There
-are allusions in print to the "Bell," the "George" (previously
-the "White Hart"), and to the "Cock" Inn,
-where, after years of wandering, Fynes Moryson arrived
-one Sunday morning in 1595; but these all passed away
-long ago. The last to linger in the neighbourhood was the
-"Bull and Mouth," St Martin's-le-Grand, finally called the
-"Queen's" Hotel, absorbed by the General Post Office
-in 1886. The name is generally supposed to be a
-corruption of Boulogne Mouth, the entrance to Boulogne
-Harbour, that town having been taken by Henry VIII.
-George Steevens, the Shakespearean commentator, seems
-to have suggested this, and his idea has been generally
-accepted; but it is more likely that our inn was identical
-with the house called in 1657 "the Mouth near
-Aldersgate in London, then the usual meeting-place
-for Quakers," to which the Body of John Lilburne was
-conveyed in August of that year. We learn from
-Ellwood's <i>Autobiography</i> that five years afterwards he
-was arrested at the "Bull and Mouth," Aldersgate. The
-house was at its zenith as a coaching centre in the early
-years of the nineteenth century, when Edward Sherman
-had become landlord. He rebuilt the old galleried house
-in 1830. When coaching for business purposes ceased to
-be, the gateway from St. Martin's-le-Grand was partially
-blocked up and converted into the main entrance,
-the inn continuing under its changed name for many
-years. The sculptured signs were not removed until the
-destruction of the building. One, which was over the
-main entrance, is a statuette of a Bull within a gigantic
-open Mouth; below are bunches of grapes; above, a
-bust of Edward VI. and the arms of Christ's Hospital,
-to which institution the ground belonged. Beneath is
-a tablet inscribed with the following doggerel rhyme:—</p>
-
-<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
-<span class="i0">"Milo the Cretonian an ox slew with his fist,<br /></span>
-<span class="i0">And ate it up at one meal, ye Gods what a glorious twist."<br /></span><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_130" id="Page_130">{130}</a></span>
-</div></div>
-
-<p>Another version of the sign, the Mouth appearing below
-the Bull, was over what had been a back entrance to
-the yard in Angel Street. These signs are now both in
-the Guildhall Museum. I had almost overlooked one
-house, the "Castle and Falcon," Aldersgate, closed within
-the last few months, and now destroyed. The structure
-was uninteresting, but it stood on an old site—that of
-John Day's printing-house in the reign of Queen
-Elizabeth. At the present inn on April 12th, 1799, was
-founded the Church Missionary Society; here also its
-centenary was celebrated.</p>
-
-<p>Besides being plentiful in the main thoroughfares,
-important inns, like the churches, were often crammed
-away in narrow and inconvenient lanes. This was the
-case with the "Oxford Arms" and the "Bell," both in
-Warwick Lane. The former was approached by a
-passage, being bounded on the west by the line of the
-old city wall, or by a later wall a few feet to the
-east of it, and touching Amen Corner on the south.
-It was a fine example of its kind. As was said by a
-writer in <i>The Athenum</i> of May 20th, 1876, just before
-it was destroyed:</p>
-
-<div class="blockquot">
-
-<p>"Despite the confusion, the dirt and the decay, he who stands in
-the yard of this ancient inn may get an excellent idea of what it was
-like in the days of its prosperity, when not only travellers in coach or
-saddle rode into or out of the yard, but poor players and mountebanks
-set up their stage for the entertainment of spectators, who hung over the
-galleries or looked on from their rooms—a name by which the boxes of a
-theatre were first known."</p></div>
-
-<p>The house must have been rebuilt after the Great Fire,
-which raged over this area. That it existed before is
-proved by the following odd advertisement of March,
-1672-73:</p>
-
-<div class="blockquot">
-
-<p>"These are to give notice that Edward Bartlet, Oxford Carrier, hath
-removed his inn in London from the Swan at Holborn Bridge to the
-Oxford Arms in Warwick Lane, where he did Inn before the Fire. His
-coaches and waggons going forth on their usual days, Mondays, Wednesdays,
-and Fridays. He hath also a hearse and all things convenient
-to carry a Corps to any part of England."<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_131" id="Page_131">{131}</a></span></p></div>
-
-<p>The "Bell" Inn, also galleried, was on the east side
-of Warwick Lane. There Archbishop Leighton died in
-1684. As Burnet tells us, he had often said that "if
-he were to choose a place to die in it should be an Inn;
-it looked like a pilgrim's going home, to whom this world
-was all as an Inn, and who was weary of the noise and
-confusion in it." Thus his desire was fulfilled. There
-is a view of the old house in Chambers' <i>Book of Days</i>,
-vol. i., p. 278. It was demolished in 1865, when the value
-of the unclaimed parcels, some of which had been there
-many years, is said to have been considerable. According
-to one statement, the jewellery was worth 700 or 800.</p>
-
-<p>The few remaining inns to which reference will be
-made may best perhaps be taken in alphabetical order.
-The old "Angel" Inn, at the end of Wych Street, Strand,
-already existed in February, 1503, when a letter was
-directed to Sir Richard Plumpton "at the Angell behind
-St. Clement's Kirk." From this inn Bishop Hooper was
-taken to Gloucester in 1554 to be burnt at the stake. A
-trade token was issued there in 1657. Finally, the
-business, largely dependent on coaches, faded away; the
-building was rased to the ground in 1853, and the set of
-offices called Danes Inn built on the site. These in their
-turn have now succumbed. The "Axe" in Aldermanbury
-was a famous carriers' inn. It is mentioned in drunken
-Barnabee's <i>Journal</i>, and from there the first line of stage
-waggons from London to Liverpool was established
-about the middle of the seventeenth century. It took
-many days to perform the journey.</p>
-
-<p>In Laurence Lane, near the Guildhall, was a noteworthy
-house called "Blossoms" Inn, which, according
-to Stow, had "to sign St. Laurence the Deacon in a
-border of blossoms of flowers." In 1522, when the
-Emperor Charles V. came to visit Henry VIII. in London,
-certain inns were set apart for the reception of his retinue,
-among them "St. Laurence, otherwise called Bosoms Yn,
-was to have ready XX beddes and a stable for LX<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_132" id="Page_132">{132}</a></span>
-horses." In Ben Jonson's <i>Masque of Christmas</i>,
-presented at Court in 1616, "Tom of Bosomes Inn,"
-apparently a real person, is introduced as representing
-Mis-rule. That the house was early frequented by
-carriers is shown in the epistle dedicatory to <i>Have
-at you at Saffron Walden</i>, 1596:—"Yet have I naturally
-cherisht and hugt it in my bosome, even as a carrier at
-Bosome's Inne doth a cheese under his arm." A satirical
-tract about Bankes and his horse Marocco gives the
-name of the authors as "John Dande the wiredrawer of
-Hadley, and Harrie Hunt head ostler of Bosomes inn."
-There is a view of this famous hostelry in the Crace
-collection, date 1855; the yard is now a dept for
-railway goods.</p>
-
-<p>In 1852 London suffered a sad loss architecturally by
-the removal of the fine groined crypt of Gerard's Hall,
-Basing Lane, which dated perhaps from the end of the
-thirteenth century, and had formed part of the mansion
-of a famous family of citizens, by name Gysors. In
-Stow's time it was "a common hostrey for receipt of
-travellers." He gives a long account of it, mixing fact
-with fiction. The house and hall were destroyed in the
-Great Fire, but the crypt escaped, and on it an inn
-was built with, in front, a carved wooden effigy of that
-mythical personage, Gerard the Giant, which is now in
-the Guildhall Museum. On the removal of the crypt
-the stones were numbered and presented to the Crystal
-Palace Company, with a view to its erection in their
-building or grounds. It is said, however, that after a
-time the stones were used for mending roads.</p>
-
-<p>A rather unimportant-looking inn was the "Nag's
-Head," on the east side of Whitcomb Street, formerly
-Hedge Lane, but it is worthy of mention for one or two
-reasons. We learn from a manuscript note-book, which
-was in the possession of the late Mr. F. Locker Lampson,
-that Hogarth in his later days, when he set up a coach
-and horses, kept them at the "Nag's Head." He was<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_133" id="Page_133">{133}</a></span>
-then living on the east side of Leicester Square. According
-to a pencil note on an old drawing, which belongs
-to the writer, "this inn did the posting exclusively for
-the Royal family from George I. to William IV." It
-was latterly used as a livery stable, but retained its
-picturesque galleries until, the lease having come to an
-end, it was closed in 1890. The space remained vacant
-for some years, and is now covered by the fine publishing
-office of Messrs. Macmillan & Co.</p>
-
-<p>Two "Saracen's Head" inns have already been
-described, and though one feels how imperfect this
-account must of necessity be, and that some houses of
-note are altogether omitted, I am tempted to mention a
-third—the house with that sign in Friday Street. It
-came into the hands of the Merchant Taylors' Company
-as early as the year 1400, and after several rebuildings
-was finally swept away in 1844. The adjoining house,
-said by tradition to have been occupied by Sir Christopher
-Wren, was destroyed at the same time.</p>
-
-<p>It was in the early thirties of last century that coaching
-reached its zenith, and perhaps the greatest coaching
-centre in London was the "Swan with Two Necks," Lad
-Lane. It was an old inn, mentioned by Machyn as early
-as 1556. In 1637 carriers from Manchester and other
-places used to lodge there, but it will be best
-remembered as it appears in a well-known print during
-the heyday of its prosperity, the courtyard crowded with
-life and movement. The gateway was so narrow that
-it required some horsemanship to drive a fast team out
-of the said courtyard, and some care on the part of the
-guard that his horn or bugle basket was not jammed
-against the gate-post. The proprietor of this establishment
-was Mr. William Chaplin who, originally a coachman,
-became perhaps the greatest coach proprietor that
-ever lived. About 1835 he occupied the yards of no
-fewer than five famous and important inns in London,
-to all of which allusion has been made—the "Spread<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_134" id="Page_134">{134}</a></span>
-Eagle" and "Cross Keys" in Gracechurch Street, the
-"Swan with Two Necks," the "White Horse," Fetter
-Lane, and the "Angel" behind St. Clement's. He had
-1,300 horses at work on various roads, and about that
-time horsed fourteen out of the twenty-seven coaches
-leaving London every night. When the railways came
-he bowed to the inevitable, and, in partnership with Mr.
-Horne, established the great carrying business, which still
-flourishes on the site of the old "Swan with Two Necks."
-In 1845 Lad Lane was absorbed by Gresham Street. The
-origin of the sign has been often discussed, but it is
-perhaps well to conclude this chapter by adding a few
-words about it. The swans on the upper reaches of the
-Thames are owned respectively by the Crown and the
-Dyers and the Vintners' Company, and, according to
-ancient custom, the representatives of these several owners
-make an excursion each year up the river to mark the
-cygnets. The visitors' mark used to consist of the
-chevron or letter V and two nicks on the beak. The
-word nicks has been corrupted into necks, and as the
-Vintners were often tavern-keepers, the "Swan with Two
-Necks" became a common sign.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_135" id="Page_135">{135}</a></span></p>
-</div>
-
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-<div class="chapter">
-<h2><a name="THE_OLD_LONDON_COFFEE-HOUSES" id="THE_OLD_LONDON_COFFEE-HOUSES">THE OLD LONDON COFFEE-HOUSES</a></h2>
-
-<p class='p3'><span class="smcap">By G. L. Apperson, I.S.O.</span></p>
-
-
-
-<div>
-<img class="drop-cap" src="images/drop-f.png" width="100" height="119" alt="" />
-</div>
-
-<p class="drop-cap">For something like a century and a half
-the coffee-houses formed a distinctive feature
-of London life. The first is said to have
-been established by a man named Bowman,
-servant to a Turkey merchant, who opened a
-coffee-house in St. Michael's Alley, Cornhill, in 1652.
-The honour of being the second has been claimed
-for the "Rainbow" in Fleet Street, by the Inner
-Temple Gate, opposite Chancery Lane. Aubrey, speaking
-of Sir Henry Blount, a beau in the time of
-Charles II., says: "When coffee first came in, he was
-a great upholder of it, and had ever since been a constant
-frequenter of coffee-houses, especially Mr. Farre's, at the
-'Rainbow,' by Inner Temple Gate." But according to <i>The
-Daily Post</i> of May 15th, 1728, "Old Man's" Coffee-house,
-at Charing Cross, "was the Second that was set
-up in the Cities of London and Westminster." The
-question of priority, however, is of no importance. It
-is quite certain that in a surprisingly short space of
-time coffee-houses became very numerous. A manuscript
-of 1659, quoted in <i>The Gentleman's Magazine</i> for 1852
-(Part I., pp. 477-9), says that at that date there was</p>
-
-<div class="blockquot">
-
-<p>"a Turkish drink to be sould almost in eury street, called Coffee, and
-another kind of drink called Tee, and also a drink called Chocolate,
-which was a very harty drink."</p></div>
-
-<p>Tea made its way slowly; but coffee took the town by
-storm.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_136" id="Page_136">{136}</a></span></p>
-
-<p>The coffee-houses, as resorts for men of different classes
-and occupations, survived till the early years of the nineteenth
-century; but their palmy days were over some
-time before the end of the eighteenth century. They
-were at the height of their fame and usefulness from the
-Restoration till the earlier years of George III.'s reign.</p>
-
-<p>From the description given in <i>The Spectator</i> and other
-contemporary writings—such as "facetious" Tom Brown's
-<i>Trip through London</i> of 1728, and the like—it is easy
-to reconstruct in imagination the interior of one of these
-resorts as they appeared in the time of Queen Anne.
-Occasionally the coffee-room, as at the famous "Will's"
-in Russell Street, Covent Garden, was on the first floor.
-Tables were disposed about the sanded floor—the erection
-of boxes did not come in until a later date—while on
-the walls were numerous flaming advertisements of quack
-medicines, pills and tinctures, salves and electuaries, which
-were as abundant then as now, and of other wares which
-might be bought at the bar. The bar was at the entrance
-to the temple of coffee and gossip, and was presided over
-by the predecessors of the modern barmaids—grumbled
-at in <i>The Spectator</i> as "idols," who there received homage
-from their admirers, and who paid more attention to
-customers who flirted with them than to more sober-minded
-visitors; and described by Tom Brown as "a
-charming Phillis or two, who invite you by their amorous
-glances into their smoaky territories."</p>
-
-<p>At the bar messages were left and letters taken in
-for regular customers. In the early days of Swift's
-friendship with Addison, Stella was instructed to address
-her letters to the former under cover to Addison at the
-"St. James's" Coffee-house, in St. James's Street; but as
-the friendship between the two men cooled the cover was
-dispensed with, and the letters were addressed to Swift
-himself at the coffee-house, where they were placed,
-doubtless with many others, in the glass frame behind
-the bar. Stella's handwriting was very like that of her<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_137" id="Page_137">{137}</a></span>
-famous correspondent, and one day Harley, afterwards
-Earl of Oxford, seeing one of Stella's letters in the
-glass frame and thinking the writing was Swift's, asked
-the latter, when he met him shortly afterwards, how long
-he had learned the trick of writing to himself. Swift
-says he could hardly persuade him that he was mistaken
-in the writing.</p>
-
-<p>The coffee-houses were the haunts of clubs and coteries
-almost from the date of their first establishment. Steele,
-in the familiar introduction to <i>The Tatler</i>, tells us how
-accounts of gallantry, pleasure and entertainment were
-to come from "White's" Chocolate-house; poetry from
-"Will's" Coffee-house; learning from the "Grecian"; and
-foreign and domestic news from the "St. James's."
-Nearly fifty years later, Bonnell Thornton, in the first
-number of <i>The Connoisseur</i>, January 31st, 1754, similarly
-enumerates some of the leading houses. "White's" was
-still the fashionable resort; "Garraway's" was for stock-jobbers;
-"Batson's" for doctors; the "Bedford" for
-"wits" and men of parts; the "Chapter" for book-sellers;
-and "St. Paul's" for the clergy. Mackay, in his <i>Journey
-through England</i>, published in 1724, says that</p>
-
-<div class="blockquot">
-
-<p>"about twelve the <i>beau-monde</i> assembles in several chocolate and coffee-houses,
-the best of which are the Cocoa Tree and White's Chocolate-houses,
-St. James's, the Smyrna, and the British Coffee-houses; and all
-these so near one another that in less than an hour you see the company
-of them all.... I must not forget to tell you that the parties have
-their different places, where, however, a stranger is always well received;
-but a Whig will no more go to the Cocoa Tree or Ozinda's than a Tory
-will be seen at the coffee-house of St. James's. The Scots go generally to
-the British, and a mixture of all sorts to the Smyrna. There are other
-little coffee-houses much frequented in this neighbourhood—Young
-Man's for officers, Old Man's for stock-jobbers, paymasters, and courtiers,
-and Little Man's for sharpers."</p></div>
-
-<p>It was only natural that people of similar occupations
-or tastes should gravitate in their hours of leisure to
-common social centres, and no one classification, such as
-that just quoted, can exhaust the subject.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_138" id="Page_138">{138}</a></span></p>
-
-<p>The devotees of whist had their own houses. The
-game began to be popular about 1730, and some of those
-who first played scientific whist—possibly including Hoyle
-himself—were accustomed to meet at the "Crown"
-Coffee-house in Bedford Row. Other groups soon met
-at other houses. A pirated edition of Hoyle's <i>Whist</i>,
-printed at Dublin in 1743, contains an advertisement of
-"A Short Treatise on the Game of Whist, as play'd at
-Court, White's, and George's Chocolate-houses, at
-Slaughter's, and the Crown Coffee-houses, etc., etc." At
-"Rawthmell's" Coffee-house in Henrietta Street, Covent
-Garden, the Society of Arts was founded in 1754. "Old
-Slaughter's" in St. Martin's Lane was a great resort
-in the second half of the eighteenth century of artists.
-Here Roubillac the sculptor, Hogarth, Bourguignon or
-Gravelot the book illustrator, Moser the keeper of the
-St. Martin's Lane Academy, Luke Sullivan the engraver,
-and many others of the fraternity were wont to foregather.
-Near by was "Young Slaughter's," a meeting-place
-for scientific and literary men.</p>
-
-<p>R. L. Edgeworth, in his <i>Memoirs</i> (p. 118, Ed. 1844),
-says:—</p>
-
-<div class="blockquot">
-
-<p>"I was introduced by Mr. Keir into a society of literary and scientific
-men, who used formerly to meet once a week at Jack's Coffee-house
-[<i>i.e., circa 1780</i>] in London, and afterwards at Young Slaughter's Coffee-house.
-Without any formal name, this meeting continued for years to
-be frequented by men of real science and of distinguished merit. John
-Hunter was our chairman. Sir Joseph Banks, Solander, Sir A. Blagden,
-Dr. George Fordyce, Milne, Maskelyne, Captain Cook, Sir G. Shuckburgh,
-Lord Mulgrave, Smeaton and Ramsden, were among our members. Many
-other gentlemen of talents belonged to this club, but I mention those
-only with whom I was individually acquainted."</p></div>
-
-<p>A favourite resort of men of letters during the middle
-and later years of the eighteenth century was the
-"Bedford" Coffee-house, under the Piazza, in Covent
-Garden. This house, it may be said, inherited the
-tradition from Button's, which that famous coffee-house
-had taken over from Will's. To the "Bedford" came<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_139" id="Page_139">{139}</a></span>
-Fielding, Foote, Garrick, Churchill, Sheridan, Hogarth,
-and many another man of note. Another haunt of literary
-men, as well as of book-sellers, was the "Chapter" Coffee-house
-in Paternoster Row. Chatterton wrote to his
-mother in May, 1770: "I am quite familiar at the
-'Chapter' Coffee-house, and know all the geniuses there."
-Goldsmith was one of its frequenters. It was here that
-he came to sup one night as the invited guest of
-Churchill's friend, Charles Lloyd. The supper was
-served and enjoyed, whereupon Lloyd, without a penny
-in his pocket to pay for the meal he had ordered, coolly
-walked off and left Goldsmith to discharge the reckoning.
-It was at the same house that Foote, one day when a
-distressed player passed his hat round the coffee-room
-circle with an appeal for help, made the malicious
-remark: "If Garrick hear of this he will certainly send
-in his hat."</p>
-
-<p>Close by was the "St. Paul's" Coffee-house, where,
-according to Bonnell Thornton, "tattered crapes," or
-poor parsons, were wont to ply "for an occasional burial
-or sermon, with the same regularity as the happier
-drudges who salute us with the cry of 'Coach, sir,' or
-'Chair, your honour.'" The same writer relates how a
-party of bucks, by a hoaxing proffer of a curacy, "drew
-all the poor parsons to 'St. Paul's' Coffee-house, where
-the bucks themselves sat in another box to smoke their
-rusty wigs and brown cassocks."</p>
-
-<p>Business men gathered at "Jonathan's" and "Garraway's,"
-both in Exchange Alley, where the sale and
-purchase of stocks and bonds and merchandise of every
-kind formed the staple talk. The former house was a
-centre of operations for both bubblers and bubbled in
-the mania year of 1720. "Lloyd's" Coffee-house was for
-very many years a famous auction mart.</p>
-
-<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
-<span class="i0">"Then to Lloyd's coffee-house he never fails,<br /></span>
-<span class="i0">To read the letters, and attend the sales,"<br /></span><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_140" id="Page_140">{140}</a></span>
-</div></div>
-
-<p>says the author of <i>The Wealthy Shopkeeper</i>, published in
-1700. Addison, in No. 46 of <i>The Spectator</i>, tells how he
-was accustomed to make notes or "minutes" of anything
-likely to be useful for future papers, and of how one day
-he accidentally dropped one of these papers at "Lloyd's
-Coffee-house, where the auctions are usually kept." It
-was picked up and passed from hand to hand, to the
-great amusement of all who saw it. Finally, the "boy
-of the coffee-house," having in vain asked for the owner
-of the paper, was made "to get up into the auction pulpit
-and read it to the whole room." The "Jerusalem" Coffee-house,
-in Exchange Alley, was for generations the resort
-of merchants and traders interested in the East.</p>
-
-<p>The doctors met at "Batson's" or "Child's." The
-pseudonymous author of Don Manoel Gonzales' <i>Voyage
-to Great Britain</i>, 1745, speaking of the London physicians,
-says: "You find them at Batson's or Child's Coffee-house
-usually in the morning, and they visit their patients in the
-afternoon." The Jacobites had two well-known houses
-of call—"Bromefield's" Coffee-house in Spring Gardens,
-and, later, the "Smyrna" in Pall Mall. Mr. J. H.
-MacMichael, in his valuable book on <i>Charing Cross</i>, 1906,
-quotes an order "given at their Majesties' Board of Green
-Cloth at Hampton Court" in 1689, to Sir Christopher
-Wren, Surveyor of Their Majesties' Works, to have
-"bricked or otherwise so closed up as you shall judge
-most fit for the security of their Majesties' Palace of
-Whitehall" a certain door which led out of Buckingham
-Court into Spring Garden, because Bromefield's Coffee-house
-in that court was resorted to by "a great and
-numerous concourse of Papists and other persons disaffected
-to the Government." Mr. MacMichael suggests
-that probably "Bromefield's" was identical with the
-coffee-house known as "Young Man's." "The Smyrna,"
-in Pall Mall, was the Jacobite resort in Georgian days. It
-was also a house of many literary associations. Thomson,
-the poet, there received subscriptions for his <i>Seasons</i>;<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_141" id="Page_141">{141}</a></span>
-Swift and Prior and Arbuthnot frequented it. In 1703
-Lord Peterborough wrote to Arbuthnot from Spain:—"I
-would faine save Italy and yett drink tea with you at
-the Smirna this Winter." But it is impossible to catalogue
-fully all the different coffee-house centres. The
-"Grecian" in Devereux Court, Strand, was devoted to
-learning; barristers frequented "Serle's," at the corner of
-Serle and Portugal Streets, Lincoln's Inn Fields; the
-Templars went to "Dick's," and later to the "Grecian";
-and so the list might be prolonged.</p>
-
-<p>In the earlier days of the coffee-houses the coterie
-or club of regular frequenters foregathered by the fire,
-or in some particular part of the general room, or in
-an inner room. At "Will's" in Russell Street, Covent
-Garden, where Mr. Pepys used to drop in to hear the
-talk, Dryden, the centre of the literary circle which
-there assembled, had his big arm-chair in winter by the
-fireside, and in summer on the balcony. Around him
-gathered many men of letters, including Addison,
-Wycherley, Congreve, and the juvenile Pope, and all who
-aspired to be known as "wits." On the outskirts of the
-charmed circle hovered the more humble and modest
-frequenters of the coffee-room, who were proud to obtain
-the honour even of a pinch of snuff from the poet's box.
-Across the road at "Button's," a trifle later, Addison
-became the centre of a similar circle, though here the tone
-was political quite as much as literary. Whig men of
-letters discussed politics as well as books. Steele, Tickell,
-Budgell, Rowe, and Ambrose Phillips were among the
-leading figures in this coterie. Pope was of it for a time,
-but withdrew after his quarrel with Addison.</p>
-
-<p>Whig politicians met at the "St. James's"; and
-Addison, in a <i>Spectator</i> of 1712, pictures the scene. A
-rumour of the death of Louis XIV. had set the tongues
-going of all the gossips and quidnuncs in town; and the
-essayist relates how he made a tour of the town to hear
-how the news was received, and to catch the drift of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_142" id="Page_142">{142}</a></span>
-popular opinion on so momentous an event. In the course
-of his peregrinations the silent gentleman visited the
-"St. James's," where he found the whole outer room in
-a buzz of politics. The quality of the talk improved as
-he advanced from the door to the upper end of the room;
-but the most thorough-going politicians were to be found
-"in the inner room, with the steam of the coffee-pot," and
-in this sanctum, says the humorist, "I heard the whole
-Spanish monarchy disposed of, and all the line of
-Bourbon provided for, in less than a quarter of an hour."</p>
-
-<p>In later days coffee-house clubs became more exclusive.
-The members of a club or coterie were allotted a room of
-their own, to which admission ceased to be free and
-open, and thus was marked the beginning of the
-transition from the coffee-house of the old style to the
-club-house of the new. In <i>The Gentleman's Magazine</i> for
-1841 (Part II., pp. 265-9) is printed a paper of proposals,
-dated January 23rd, 1768, for enlarging the accommodation
-for the club accustomed to meet at Tom's Coffee-house,
-Great Russell Street, Covent Garden, by taking
-into the coffee-room the first floor of the adjoining house.
-Admission to this club was obtained by ballot.</p>
-
-<p>Coffee-houses were frequented for various purposes
-besides coffee, conversation, and business—professional
-or otherwise. The refreshments supplied were by no
-means confined to such innocuous beverages as tea and
-coffee and chocolate. Wines and spirits were freely consumed—"laced"
-coffee, or coffee dashed with brandy,
-being decidedly popular. Swift relates how on the
-occasion of his christening the child of Elliot, the proprietor
-of the "St. James's," he sat at the coffee-house
-among some "scurvy companions" over a bowl of punch
-so late that when he came home he had no time to
-write to Stella. The prolonged sittings and too copious
-libations of the company at Button's Coffee-house gave
-the feeble and delicate Pope many a headache; and
-Addison, who was notoriously a hard drinker, did not,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_143" id="Page_143">{143}</a></span>
-we may feel sure, confine himself during those prolonged
-sittings to coffee.</p>
-
-<p>The coffee-houses were also public reading-rooms.
-There could be read the newspapers and other periodical
-publications of the day. When Sir Roger de Coverley
-entered "Squire's," near Gray's Inn Gate, he "called for
-a clean pipe, a paper of tobacco, a dish of coffee, a wax
-candle, and <i>The Supplement</i>."</p>
-
-<p>Mackay, in his <i>Journey through England</i>, already
-quoted, says that "in all the Coffee-houses you have not
-only the foreign prints, but several English ones with the
-Foreign Occurrences, besides papers of morality and
-party disputes." Swift, writing to Stella, November 18th,
-1711, says, "Do you read the <i>Spectators</i>? I never do;
-they never come in my way; I go to no coffee-houses";
-and when <i>The Tatler</i> had disappeared, a little earlier, Gay
-wrote that "the coffee-houses began to be sensible that
-the Esquire's lucubrations alone had brought them more
-customers than all their other newspapers put together."
-Periodical publications were filed for reference; and at
-all the better houses <i>The London Gazette</i>, and, during
-the session, the Parliamentary Votes could be seen. At
-least one house possessed a library. This was the
-"Chapter," in Paternoster Row, already referred to as
-a literary haunt. Dr. Thomas Campbell, the author of
-a <i>Diary of a Visit to England in 1775</i>, which was published
-at Sydney in 1854, says that he had heard that
-the "Chapter" was remarkable for a large collection of
-books and a reading society.</p>
-
-<p>The coffee-houses served as writing-rooms as well
-as reading-rooms. Many of Steele's numerous love-letters
-to "dear Prue," the lady who became his wife,
-the lovely Mary Scurlock, written both before and after
-his marriage, are dated from the "St. James's," the
-"Tennis Court," "Button's," or other coffee-house. But a
-popular coffee-room could hardly have been an ideal place
-for either reading or writing. A poet of 1690 says that<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_144" id="Page_144">{144}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
-<span class="i0">"The murmuring buzz which thro' the room was sent,<br /></span>
-<span class="i0">Did bee-hives' noise exactly represent,<br /></span>
-<span class="i0">And like a bee-hive, too, 'twas filled, and thick,<br /></span>
-<span class="i0">All tasting of the Honey Politick<br /></span>
-<span class="i0">Called 'News,' which they all greedily sucked in."<br /></span>
-</div></div>
-
-<p>And many years later, Gilly Williams, in a letter to
-George Selwyn, dated November 1st, 1764, says: "I write
-this in a full coffee-house, and with such materials, that
-you have good luck if you can read two lines of it."</p>
-
-<p>A curious proof of the close and intimate way in
-which the coffee-houses were linked with social life
-is to be seen in the occasional references, both in
-dramatic and prose literature, to some of the well-known
-servants of the coffee-houses. Steele, in the first number
-of <i>The Tatler</i>, refers familiarly to Humphrey Kidney, the
-waiter and keeper of book debts at the "St. James's"—he
-"has the ear of the greatest politicians that come hither"—and
-when Kidney resigned, it was advertised that he
-had been "succeeded by John Sowton, to whose place of
-caterer of messages and first coffee-grinder William Bird is
-promoted, and Samuel Bardock comes as shoe-cleaner in
-the room of the said Bird." "Robin, the Porter who waits
-at Will's Coffee-house," plays a prominent part in a little
-romance narrated in No. 398 of <i>The Spectator</i>. He is
-described as "the best man in the town for carrying a
-billet; the fellow has a thin body, swift step, demure
-looks, sufficient sense, and knows the town." A waiter
-of the same name at Locket's, in Spring Gardens, is
-alluded to in Congreve's <i>The Way of the World</i>, where
-the fashionable Lady Wishfort, when she threatens to
-marry a "drawer" (or waiter), says, "I'll send for Robin
-from Locket's immediately."</p>
-
-<p>The coffee-houses were employed as agencies for the
-sale of many things other than their own refreshments.
-Most of them sold the quack medicines that were staringly
-advertised on their walls. Some sold specific proprietary
-articles. A newspaper advertisement of 1711 says that<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_145" id="Page_145">{145}</a></span>
-the water of Epsom Old Well was "pumped out almost
-every night, that you may have the new mineral every
-morning," and that "the water is sold at Sam's Coffee-house
-in Ludgate Street, Hargrave's at the Temple Gate,
-Holtford's at the lower end of Queen's Street near
-Thames Street, and nowhere else in London." A
-"Ticket of the seal of the Wells" was affixed, so that
-purchasers "might not be cheated in their waters." The
-"Royal" Coffee-house at Charing Cross, which flourished
-in the time of Charles II., sold "Anderson's Pills"—a
-compound of cloves, jalap, and oil of aniseed. At the
-same house were to be had tickets for the various county
-feasts, then popular, which were an anticipation of the
-annual dinners of county associations so common nowadays.</p>
-
-<p>Razor-strops of a certain make were to be bought in
-1705 at John's Coffee-house, Exchange Alley. In 1742
-it was advertised that "silver tickets" (season tickets)
-for Ranelagh Gardens were to be had at any hour of
-the day at Forrest's Coffee-house, near Charing Cross.
-"All Sorts of the newest fashion'd Tye Perukes, made of
-fresh string, Humane Hair, far exceeding any Country
-Work," were advertised in 1725 as to be bought at
-Brown's Coffee-house in Spring Gardens.</p>
-
-<p>House agents, professional men, and other folk of more
-questionable kind, were all wont to advertise that they
-could be seen by clients at this or that coffee-house.
-The famous and impudent Mrs. Mapp, "the bone-setter,"
-drove into town daily from Epsom in her own carriage,
-and was to be seen (and heard) at the "Grecian." Most
-of the houses were willing to receive letters in answer to
-advertisements, and from the nature of the latter must
-often, it is pretty certain, have been assisting parties to
-fraud and chicanery of various kind. At some houses,
-besides those like Lloyd's specially devoted to auction
-business, sales were held. A black boy was advertised to
-be sold at Denis's Coffee-house in Finch Lane in 1708. In<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_146" id="Page_146">{146}</a></span>
-the middle of the eighteenth century sales were often held
-at the "Apollo" Coffee-house, just within Temple Bar,
-and facing Temple Gate. Picture sales were usually held
-at coffee-houses. The catalogue of one such sale, held
-at the "Barbadoes" Coffee-house in February, 1689/90,
-contains a glowing address on the art of painting by
-Millington, the Auctioneer, written in the style made
-famous later by George Robins. Says the eloquent
-Millington:</p>
-
-<div class="blockquot">
-
-<p>"This incomparable art at the same time informs the Judgment, pleases
-the Fancy, recreates the Eye, and touches the Soul, entertains the Curious
-with silent Instruction, by expressing our most noble Passions, and never
-fails of rewarding its admirers with the greatest Pleasures, so Innocent and
-Ravishing, that the severest Moralists, the Morosest <i>Stoicks</i> cannot be
-offended therewith,"</p></div>
-
-<p>and so on and so on.</p>
-
-<p>Many of the early book sales, too, were held at coffee-houses.
-The third book auction in England, that of the
-library of the Rev. William Greenhill, was held on
-February 18th, 1677/78, "in the House of Ferdinand
-Stable, Coffee-Seller, at the Sign of the 'Turk's Head,'"
-in Bread Street. When sales were held elsewhere,
-catalogues could usually be had at some of the leading
-coffee-houses.</p>
-
-<p>Besides serving as reading, writing and sale rooms,
-they seem sometimes to have been used as lecture rooms.
-William Whiston, in his <i>Memoirs</i> written by himself
-(1749), says:</p>
-
-<div class="blockquot">
-
-<p>"Mr. Addison, with his friend Sir Richard Steele, brought me upon
-my banishment from Cambridge, to have many astronomical lectures at
-Mr. Button's coffee-house, near Covent Garden, to the agreeable entertainment
-of a great number of persons, and the procuring me and my
-family some comfortable support under my banishment."</p></div>
-
-<p>Some of the houses, as an additional attraction to
-visitors, offered exhibitions of collections of curiosities.
-The most famous collection of this kind was that to be
-seen for many years at Don Saltero's Coffee-house at<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_147" id="Page_147">{147}</a></span>
-Chelsea. Don Saltero, by the way, was simply plain
-James Salter disguised. Some of his exhibits were
-supplied by his former master, Sir Hans Sloane, and by
-other scientific friends and patrons. But mixed with
-things of genuine interest were to be seen all sorts of
-rubbish. Steele made fun of the collection in <i>The Tatler</i>.
-But people came to see the "piece of nun's skin tanned,"
-"Job's tears, which grow on a tree, and of which anodyne
-necklaces are made," a "waistcoat to prevent sweating,"
-and the many other strange articles which were shown
-side by side with the wooden shoe (of doubtful authenticity,
-one would think) which was placed under Mr.
-Speaker's chair in the time of James II., the King of
-Morocco's tobacco pipe, Oliver Cromwell's sword, and the
-like "historical" curiosities; and Mr. Salter had no reason
-to be dissatisfied with the results of his ingenuity. The
-most interesting association of this coffee-house, perhaps,
-is Pennant's story of how it was frequented by Richard
-Cromwell, the quondam Lord Protector, described in his
-peaceful age as "a little and very neat old man, with a
-most placid countenance, the effect of his innocent and
-unambitious life."</p>
-
-<p>Not far from Don Saltero's was the old Chelsea Bun-house,
-which also contained a museum. The last relics
-of this collection were sold in April, 1839, and included
-a few pictures, plaster casts, a model of the bun-house,
-another, in cut paper, of St. Mary Redcliff Church, and
-other things of a still more trumpery character.</p>
-
-<p>Richard Thoresby tells us that when he was in
-London, in the summer of 1714, he met his "old friend
-Dr. Sloane at the coffee-house of Mr. Miers, who hath
-a handsome collection of curiosities in the room where
-the virtuosi meet." As the name of the proprietor only
-is given, it is not easy to identify this house, but possibly
-it was the "Grecian" in Devereux Court, which was a
-favourite resort of the learned. It was at the "Grecian,"
-by the way, that Goldsmith, in the latter years of his<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_148" id="Page_148">{148}</a></span>
-life, was often the life and soul of the Templars who
-were wont to meet there. In their company he sometimes
-amused himself with the flute, or with whist—"neither
-of which he played very well." When he took
-what he called a "Shoemaker's holiday," Goldsmith, after
-his day's excursion, "concluded by supping at the
-'Grecian' or 'Temple-Exchange' Coffee-house, or at
-the 'Globe' in Fleet Street."</p>
-
-<p>A word must be said as to the manners of the frequenters
-of coffee-houses. The author of <i>A Trip
-through London</i>, 1728, tells of fops who stare you out
-of countenance, and describes one man as standing with
-his back to the fire "in a great coffee-house near the
-Temple," and there spouting poetry—a remarkable specimen,
-indeed, of the bore; but on the whole the evidence
-goes to show that bad manners were usually resented by
-the rest of the company, and that good humour and
-good manners were marked characteristics of coffee-house
-life. There were exceptional incidents, of course. A
-fatal duel once resulted from a heated argument at the
-"Grecian" about a Greek accent. One day, soon after
-the first appearance of <i>The Tatler</i>, two or three well-dressed
-men walked into the coffee-room of the
-"St. James's," and began in a loud, truculent manner to
-abuse Steele as the author of that paper. One of them
-at last swore that he would cut Steele's throat or teach
-him better manners. Among the company present was
-Lord Forbes, with two friends, officers of high rank in
-the army. When the cut-throat had uttered his threat,
-Lord Forbes said significantly, "In this country you will
-find it easier to cut a purse than to cut a throat," and
-with the aid of the military gentlemen the bullies were
-ignominiously turned out of the house. Many years later,
-in 1776, the "St. James's" was the scene of a singular
-act of senseless violence. It is tersely described in
-a letter from Lord Carlisle to George Selwyn. He
-writes:<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_149" id="Page_149">{149}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="blockquot">
-
-<p>"The Baron de Lingsivy ran a French officer through the body on
-Thursday for laughing in the St. James's Coffee-house. I find he did
-not pretend that he himself was laughed at, but at that moment he
-chose that the world should be grave. The man won't die, and the baron
-will not be hanged."</p></div>
-
-<p>Incidents of this kind, however, were of rare occurrence.</p>
-
-<p>But it is impossible to attempt to exhaust the subject
-of the Old London Coffee-houses in one brief chapter.
-For a hundred years they focussed the life of the town.
-Within their hospitable walls men of all classes and
-occupations, independently, or in clubs and coteries, met
-not only for refreshment, but for social intercourse—to
-read and hear the news, to discuss the topics of the day,
-to entertain and be entertained. This was the chief end
-they served. Incidentally, as we have seen, they served
-a number of other subsidiary and more of less useful
-purposes. They died slowly. Gradually the better-class
-houses became more exclusive, and were merged in clubs
-of the modern kind. The inferior houses were driven
-from public favour by the taverns and public-houses, or,
-degenerating from their former condition, lingered on as
-coffee-houses still, but of the lower type, which is not
-yet quite extinct.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_150" id="Page_150">{150}</a></span></p>
-</div>
-
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-<div class="chapter">
-<h2><a name="THE_LEARNED_SOCIETIES_OF" id="THE_LEARNED_SOCIETIES_OF">THE LEARNED SOCIETIES OF
-LONDON</a></h2>
-
-<p class='p3'><span class="smcap">By Sir Edward Brabrook, C.B., F.S.A.</span></p>
-
-
-
-<div>
-<img class="drop-cap" src="images/drop-i.png" width="56" height="124" alt="" />
-</div>
-
-<p class="drop-cap">In a sense some of the City Guilds are entitled to be
-called "learned societies"—as the Apothecaries, the
-Parish Clerks, the Stationers, and the Surgeons—but
-they are dealt with under their proper head. By
-the learned societies of London, we mean here those
-voluntary bodies existing with or without royal patronage,
-but relying wholly for support on the contributions of
-their members, which have taken upon themselves the
-promotion of knowledge in one or more of its branches.
-The earliest which we have been able to trace is that
-Society of Antiquaries which was founded in 1572, the
-fourteenth year of Queen Elizabeth, at the house of Sir
-Robert Cotton, under the presidency of Archbishop Parker.
-It counted among its members Lancelot Andrewes, Bishop
-of Winchester, William Camden, Sir William Dethicke,
-Garter, William Lambarde, James Ley, Earl of Marlborough,
-John Stow, Mr. Justice Whitelock, and other
-antiquaries of distinction. It is said that James I. became
-alarmed for the arcana of his Government and, as some
-thought, for the established Church, and accordingly put
-an end to the existence of the society in 1604.</p>
-
-<p>His grandson, Charles II., founded the Royal Society
-of London for improving natural knowledge in the year
-1660, and thus gave effect to a project which had been in
-the minds of many learned men for some time, is
-expounded by Bacon in his scheme of Solomon's house,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_151" id="Page_151">{151}</a></span>
-and is perhaps best embodied in a letter which was
-addressed by John Evelyn to the Hon. Robert Boyle on
-September 1, 1659. The first meeting recorded in the
-journals of the society was held on November 28, 1660,
-and Evelyn was elected a member on December 26 of
-that year. Sir R. Moray was the first president. Graunt
-aptly called the society "The King's Privy Council for
-Philosophy." Statutes were duly framed by the society,
-and received the King's approval in January, 1662-3.
-For many years it held its meetings at Gresham College,
-with an interval of about four years (1669-1673), when it
-occupied Chelsea College. Its charters (dated 1662,
-1663, and 1669) gave it many privileges, among others that
-of using a mace, and it was formerly said that the one used
-by the society was the identical mace or "bauble" of
-the Long Parliament, but that is an error. The society
-began in 1663 the excellent practice, which has continued
-to the present day, of celebrating the anniversary by
-dining together on St. Andrew's Day (November 30). It
-began on February 21, 1665-6, the formation of its
-museum, a catalogue of which was published in 1681.
-Many of its meetings were devoted to practical experiment;
-thus, on November 14, 1666, the operation of
-the transfusion of blood from one dog to another was
-performed in the presence of the members. In 1671
-Isaac Newton sent his reflecting telescope to the society,
-and on January 11, 1671-2, he was elected a fellow. On
-April 28, 1686, the manuscript of his <i>Principia</i> was
-presented to the society, and it was published by the
-society in the following year. Many great men have
-been presidents of the society. Among them may
-be mentioned Sir Christopher Wren, elected president
-January 12, 1680-1; Samuel Pepys, 1684; Lord Somers,
-Chancellor of England, 1698; Isaac Newton, 1703; Sir
-Hans Sloane, on the death of Newton, 1726-7; Martin
-Folkes, who was also a well-remembered President of the
-Society of Antiquaries, 1741; the Earl of Macclesfield,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_152" id="Page_152">{152}</a></span>
-1753; succeeded on his death by the Earl of Morton, 1764;
-James West, 1768; James Barrow, and shortly afterwards,
-Sir John Pringle, 1772; Sir Joseph Banks, 1777;
-Wollaston, 1820; Davies Gilbert, 1826. In 1830, a contested
-election took place between the Duke of Sussex
-and Herschel the astronomer, when His Royal Highness
-was elected by 119 votes to 111.</p>
-
-<p>The Government have frequently availed themselves
-of the existence of the Royal Society to
-entrust it with important public duties. On December 12,
-1710, the fellows of the society were appointed visitors
-of the Royal Observatory. On February 7, 1712/3,
-the King requested the society to supply enquiries
-for his ambassadors. In 1742, and afterwards, it
-assisted in the determination of the standards. In 1780
-its public services were recognised by the grant of apartments
-in Somerset House. In 1784 it undertook a
-geodetical survey. Recently it has been entrusted by
-Parliament with a sum of 4,000 a year, which it allots
-towards encouraging scientific research. It has promoted
-many public movements, such as Arctic expeditions,
-magnetic observations, and the like. Originally its
-members were drawn from two classes—the working-men
-of science and the patrons of science; and the idea is
-even now maintained by certain privileges in respect of
-election given to privy councillors and peers; but the
-recent tendency has been to restrict its fellowship to
-persons eminent in physical science. The Royal Society
-Club was founded in 1743, and still flourishes.</p>
-
-<p>After the summary proceedings of James I., in 1604,
-the antiquaries seem to have allowed the whole of the
-seventeenth century to pass without any further attempt
-at organisation, though we learn from Mr. Ashmole that
-on July 2, 1659, an antiquaries' feast was held, and many
-renowned antiquaries, such as Dugdale, Spelman, Selden,
-and Anthony Wood flourished at that time. On
-November 5, 1707, three antiquaries met at the "Bear"<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_153" id="Page_153">{153}</a></span>
-Tavern in the Strand, and agreed to hold a weekly
-meeting at the same place on Fridays at 6 o'clock, "and
-sit till ten at farthest." Other antiquaries joined them,
-and they removed next year to the "Young Devil"
-Tavern in Fleet Street, where Le Neve became their
-president.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img src="images/image_028.jpg" width="600" height="515" alt="" />
-<p class='center'>THE<br />
-ROYAL SOCIETY'S<br />
-LETTER.</p>
-
-<p>I have (by Order of the Royal Society) seen and
-examined the Method used by Mr JOHN MARSHALL,
-for grinding Glasses; and find that he performs
-the said Work with greater Ease and Certainty
-than hitherto has been practised; by means of an Invention
-which I take to be his own, and New; and
-whereby he is enabled to make a great number of Optick-Glasses
-at one time, and all exactly alike; which
-having reported to the Royal Society, they were pleased
-to approve thereof, as an Invention of great use; and
-highly to deserve Encouragement.</p>
-
-<p>Lond. Jan. 18. <br />
-1693, 4. </p>
-
-<p class='right'>By the Command of the<br />
-Royal Society.<br />
-EDM. HALLEY.<br />
-</p>
-
-<p class='center'><i>Note</i>, There are several Persons who pretend to have the Approbation of the ROYAL
-SOCIETY; but none has, or ever had it, but my self; as my Letter can testifie.</p>
-
-<p class='center'><i>Marshall</i>s True SPECTACLES.</p>
-
-<div class="caption"><p class='center'><span class="smcap">An Early Letter of the Royal Society, dated January 18th, 1693-4.</span></p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p>In 1717 they resolved to form themselves into a
-society, which is the Society of Antiquaries now existing.
-Its minutes have been regularly kept since January 1,
-1718. The first volume bears the motto:</p>
-
-<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
-<span class="i0">"Nec veniam antiquis, sed honorem et prmia posci.<br /></span>
-</div>
-<p class="right">"Stukeley, secr., 1726";</p></div>
-
-<p>and the whole of the volume appears to be in Stukeley's
-autograph.</p>
-
-<p>In a quaint preliminary memorandum, he enumerates
-the "antient monuments" the society was to study, as:</p>
-
-<div class="blockquot">
-
-<p>"Old Citys, Stations, Camps, public Buildings, Roads, Temples,
-Abbys, Churches, Statues, Tombs, Busts, Inscriptions, Castles, Ruins,
-Altars, Ornaments, Utensils, Habits, Seals, Armour, Pourtraits, Medals,
-Urns, Pavements, Mapps, Charts, Manuscripts, Genealogy, Historys,
-Observations, Emendations of Books, already published, and whatever
-may properly belong to the History of Bryttish Antiquitys."</p></div>
-
-<p>The earlier publications of the society consisted of a
-series of fine prints engraved by George Vertue. In 1747
-it began the issue of <i>Vetusta Monumenta</i>, and in 1770
-the first edition of the first volume of <i>Archologia, or
-Miscellaneous Tracts relating to Antiquity</i>, appeared.
-The Society's resources were modest. In the year 1736 its
-income was only 61, but its expenditure was not more
-than 11, and its accumulated funds amounted to 134.
-In 1752 it obtained from George II., who declared himself
-to be the founder and patron of the society, a Royal
-Charter of Incorporation, reciting that:</p>
-
-<div class="blockquot">
-
-<p>"the study of Antiquity and the History of former times, has ever been
-esteemed highly commendable and usefull, not only to improve the minds
-of men, but also to incite them to virtuous and noble actions, and such
-as may hereafter render them famous and worthy examples to late
-posterity."<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_154" id="Page_154">{154}</a></span></p></div>
-
-<p>The qualifications of a fellow are thus defined in the
-charter:—</p>
-
-<div class="blockquot">
-
-<p>"By how much any persons shall be more excelling in the knowledge
-of the Antiquities and History of this and other nations; by how much
-the more they are desirous to promote the Honour, Business, and Emoluments
-of this Society; and by how much the more eminent they shall be
-for Piety, Virtue, Integrity, and Loyalty: by so much the more fit and
-worthy shall such person be judged of being elected and admitted into
-the said Society."</p></div>
-
-<p>Like the Royal Society, the Society of Antiquaries
-was to have and employ a sergeant-at-mace, and apartments
-were allotted to it in Somerset House. From this
-close neighbourhood grew an intimate association between
-the two societies. Many persons belonged to both, and
-although the paths of the two societies have since
-diverged, that is still so in the case of about twenty
-fellows. A practice grew up of attending each other's
-meetings. For more than forty years that agreeable
-form of interchange has ceased, and the societies contemplate
-each other from opposite corners of the quadrangle
-of Burlington House. The Fellows of the Society of
-Antiquaries dined together for many years on St. George's
-Day, April 23, the day prescribed for their anniversary
-by the charter; but after a while the custom fell into
-disuse, and it has only been revived of late years.</p>
-
-<p>In 1753 the Society for the Encouragement of Arts,
-Manufactures, and Commerce, now called the Royal
-Society of Arts, was established. It held its first public
-meeting in March, 1754. It was incorporated by Royal
-Charter in 1847, and has for its objects:—</p>
-
-<div class="blockquot">
-
-<p>"the encouragement of the arts, manufactures, and commerce of the
-country, by bestowing rewards for such productions, inventions, or
-improvements as tend to the employment of the poor, to the increase of
-trade, and to the riches and honour of the kingdom; and for meritorious
-works in the various departments of the fine arts; for discoveries, inventions
-and improvements in agriculture, chemistry, mechanics, manufactures,
-and other useful arts; for the application of such natural and
-artificial products, whether of home, colonial, or foreign growth and
-manufacture, as may appear likely to afford fresh objects of industry, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_155" id="Page_155">{155}</a></span>
-to increase the trade of the realm by extending the sphere of British
-commerce; and generally to assist in the advancement, development, and
-practical application of every department of science in connection with
-the arts, manufactures, and commerce of this country."</p></div>
-
-<p>Between 1754 and 1783 it distributed 28,434 by way
-of premiums for inventions. For more than a century
-and a half the society has devoted itself with unabated
-zeal to the promotion of its objects—by meetings,
-examinations, exhibitions, and in many other ways.</p>
-
-<p>On January 13, 1800, the Royal Institution was founded.
-In the words of one of its most distinguished professors,
-it has been a fertile source of the popularity of science.
-By means of its lectures, its laboratories, its libraries, and
-its rewards for research, it greatly stimulated public
-interest in scientific pursuits when there were few other
-bodies in existence capable of doing so. It continues to
-perform the same useful function, notwithstanding the
-great increase in the number of specialist societies since
-it was established. A feature of its lectures is the annual
-course "adapted to a juvenile auditory." It has appointed
-as its professors some of the most illustrious scientific
-men, such as Sir Humphry Davy (up to 1812), Brande
-(1813 to 1852, and afterwards as honorary professor),
-Faraday (1852), and Tyndall (1853). The late Prince
-Consort (Albert the Good) took great interest in its work,
-and frequently presided at its weekly meetings. It has
-a Board of Managers, and also a Committee of Visitors,
-annually elected, and the visitors make an annual report
-on the state of the institution. After some early pecuniary
-difficulties it entered on a career of steady prosperity.</p>
-
-<p>In 1807 the Geological Society was founded. The
-science of geology was very much opposed to popular
-notions derived from a literal interpretation of the Hebrew
-cosmogony, and was accordingly unpopular among those
-who held those notions; but the society steadily pursued
-its object, and can now look back upon the hundred years
-of its existence with pride and satisfaction. In one of his<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_156" id="Page_156">{156}</a></span>
-presidential addresses Sir Charles Lyell quoted the
-observation of Hutton, that "We can see neither the
-beginning nor the end of that vast series of phenomena
-which it is our business as geologists to investigate."
-Leonard Horner, another distinguished president, claimed
-that the society had been a "powerful instrument for the
-advancement of geological science, a centre of good
-fellowship, and a band of independent scientific men, who
-steadily and fearlessly promote the cause of truth." The
-society grants an annual medal, founded in memory of
-Wollaston, which has been frequently awarded to foreign
-geologists of distinction; and it also administers a fund
-bequeathed by him to promote useful researches in
-geology.</p>
-
-<p>In November, 1820, Dr. Burgess, the Bishop of St.
-David's, obtained an audience of King George IV., and
-laid before him a plan for the establishment of a Royal
-Society of Literature. The King took so warm an interest
-in the project as to assign out of his privy purse an annual
-sum of 1,100 guineas, out of which pensions of 100 guineas
-each were awarded to ten royal associates of the society,
-and two medals annually granted to distinguished literary
-men. Among the royal associates were Samuel Taylor
-Coleridge, T. R. Malthus, William Roscoe, and Sharon
-Turner. Among the medallists were Dugald Stewart,
-Walter Scott, Robert Southey, Washington Irving, and
-Henry Hallam. Upon September 15, 1825, the society
-received its Charter of Incorporation, in which its object
-is defined to be:—</p>
-
-<div class="blockquot">
-
-<p>"the advancement of literature by the publication of inedited remains
-of ancient literature, and of such works as may be of great intrinsic
-value, but not of that popular character which usually claims the attention
-of publishers; by the promotion of discoveries in literature; by endeavouring
-to fix the standard, as far as is practicable, and to preserve the purity
-of the English language; by the critical improvement of English
-lexicography; by the reading at public meetings of interesting papers
-on history, philosophy, poetry, philology, and the arts, and the publication
-of such of those papers as shall be approved of; by the assigning of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_157" id="Page_157">{157}</a></span>
-honorary rewards to works of great literary merit, and to important discoveries
-in literature; and by establishing a correspondence with learned
-men in foreign countries for the purpose of literary enquiry and
-information."</p></div>
-
-<p>The first method, the publication of inedited and other
-works, has been greatly promoted by a bequest to the
-society of 1,692 from the Rev. Dr. Richards. Out of the
-income of this fund the <i>Orations of Hyperides</i>, edited
-by the Rev. Churchill Babington; the <i>Discourses of
-Philoxenus</i>, by Dr. E. A. Wallis Budge; the <i>Chronicle
-of Adam of Usk</i>, by Sir E. Maunde Thompson;
-Coleridge's <i>Christabel</i>, by E. H. Coleridge; and other
-valuable works have been provided. The <i>Transactions</i>
-of the society also contain many important papers. On
-the death of George IV. the annual gift of 100 guineas to
-each of the ten royal associates was withdrawn. The
-society now acknowledges literary merit by the award
-of the diploma of Honorary Fellow. In this capacity
-many distinguished authors, both in this country and
-abroad, have been and are associated with the society.</p>
-
-<p>In its early years the society was hotly attacked by
-Macaulay, who held that its claim to be an appreciator of
-excellence in literature involved a claim to condemn
-literature of which it disapproved, and was equivalent to
-the establishment of a literary star-chamber. He
-illustrated this by a rather feeble apologue, and nothing
-in the subsequent history of the society has shown that
-his apprehensions had any foundation. It has been very
-modest in the exercise of the functions conferred upon
-it by its charter, which included the foundation of a
-college and the appointment of professors. At one time
-it did appoint a professor of English archology and
-history, and it called upon every royal associate on his
-admission to select some branch of literature on which
-it should be his duty, once a year at least, to communicate
-some disquisition or essay. The subject chosen by
-Coleridge was a characteristic one:—<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_158" id="Page_158">{158}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="blockquot">
-
-<p>"The relations of opposition and conjunction, in which the poetry
-(the Homeric and tragic), the religion, and the mysteries of ancient
-Greece stood each to the other; with the differences between the sacerdotal
-and popular religion; and the influences of theology and scholastic logic
-on the language and literature of Christendom from the 11th century."</p></div>
-
-<p>In pursuance of this undertaking he communicated a
-disquisition on the "Prometheus" of schylus.</p>
-
-<p>In 1827 the Royal Asiatic Society was founded. As
-its title implies, it devotes itself to the study of the
-languages, the literature, the history, and the traditions
-of the peoples of Asia, especially of those inhabiting
-our Indian dependency. It has enrolled in its ranks
-many, if not all, the great Indian administrators and
-the most distinguished Asiatic scholars. Daughter
-societies have been established in the three Presidencies,
-and have contributed to the collection of materials for its
-work. Its transactions are of acknowledged value and
-authority. In its rooms at Albemarle Street a library
-and museum have been collected. Its latest publication
-is a collection of Baluchi poems by Mr. Longworth
-Dames, which has also been issued to the members of
-the Folk-lore Society.</p>
-
-<p>On September 26, 1831, the British Association for the
-Advancement of Science held its first meeting at York.
-It originated in a letter addressed by Sir David Brewster
-to Professor Phillips, as secretary to the York Philosophical
-Society. The statement of its objects appended
-to its rules, as drawn up by the Rev. William Vernon
-Harcourt, is as follows:—</p>
-
-<div class="blockquot">
-
-<p>"The Association contemplates no interference with the ground
-occupied by other institutions. Its objects are:—To give a stronger
-impulse and a more systematic direction to scientific inquiry—to promote
-the intercourse of those, who cultivate science in different parts of the
-British Empire, with one another and with foreign philosophers—to
-obtain a more general attention to the objects of science, and a removal
-of any disadvantages of a public kind which impede its progress."</p></div>
-
-<p>The association was well described by the late Mr.
-Spottiswoode as "general in its comprehensiveness; special<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_159" id="Page_159">{159}</a></span>
-in its sectional arrangement." The general business of
-its meetings consists (1) in receiving and discussing communications
-upon scientific subjects at the various sections
-into which it is divided; (2) in distributing, under the
-advice of a Committee of Recommendations, the funds
-arising from the subscriptions of members and associates;
-and (3) in electing a council upon whom devolves the
-conduct of affairs until the next meeting. Although the
-meetings are held in all parts of the United Kingdom,
-and have been held in Canada and South Africa, the
-British Association may be correctly described as a
-London learned society, as its headquarters are in
-London, where the council meets and directs its continuous
-activities. One principal feature of its work, that of the
-Research Committees, which, either with or without a
-grant of money, pursue special enquiries with the view
-of reporting to the next annual meeting, continues
-throughout the year. The original designation of what
-are now the sections was "Committees of Sciences,"
-and these were—(1) mathematics and general physics,
-(2) chemistry and mineralogy, (3) geology and
-geography, (4) zoology and botany, (5) anatomy and
-physiology, (6) statistics. The sectional arrangement was
-begun in 1835, and the sections are now constituted
-as follows—(<i>a</i>) mathematical and physical science,
-(<i>b</i>) chemistry, (<i>c</i>) geology, (<i>d</i>) zoology, (<i>e</i>) geography,
-(<i>f</i>) economic science and statistics, (<i>g</i>) engineering,
-(<i>h</i>) anthropology, (<i>i</i>) physiology, (<i>k</i>) botany, (<i>l</i>) educational
-science. At each annual meeting, which lasts a week, the
-president of the next meeting is chosen, but the previous
-president remains in office until the first day (Wednesday)
-of that meeting, when he introduces his successor, who
-delivers an address. Many memorable addresses have
-been delivered by the distinguished men who have held
-that office. Each section has also a president, chosen for
-the year, and he delivers an address at the opening of
-the proceedings of his section. These addresses usually<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_160" id="Page_160">{160}</a></span>
-relate to the progress during the year, or during recent
-years, of the science dealt with by the section, or to some
-interesting matter developed by the personal researches
-of the president himself. Men of eminence in the various
-sciences are generally selected for and willingly accept the
-office of Sectional President. The meetings of the British
-Association have been called a "Parliament of Science,"
-and its influence in promoting scientific movements and
-rendering science popular has been very great.</p>
-
-<p>In 1833 the Royal Geographical Society was founded.
-It may fairly be called the most popular of all the
-special societies, having about 4,000 members. It is
-also one of the most wealthy, having an income of about
-10,000 a year. It has accumulated a fine series of
-maps, and a large library of geographical literature.
-Its quarterly journal is a store-house of the most recent
-information relating to geographical exploration. By
-medals and other rewards to explorers, by prizes awarded
-in schools and training colleges, by the loan of instruments
-to travellers, by the preparation of codes of
-instruction for their use, and in many other ways, it applies
-its resources to the extension of geographical knowledge.
-It has taken an active part in the promotion of Arctic
-and Antarctic exploration. As geographical researches
-are matters of great public interest, its meetings are
-sometimes important social functions, as on a recent
-occasion, when a foreign prince was the lecturer, and our
-King attended and spoke.</p>
-
-<p>On March 15, 1834, the Statistical Society (now
-Royal Statistical) was founded. It was one of the first
-fruits of the activity of the British Association, which
-established a Statistical Committee at the Cambridge
-meeting in 1833, with Babbage as president. Their
-report recommended the formation of a society for the
-careful collection, arrangement, discussion, and publication
-of facts bearing on or illustrating the complex
-relations of modern society in its social, economical, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_161" id="Page_161">{161}</a></span>
-political aspects, especially facts which can be stated
-numerically and arranged in tables. The first president
-was the Marquis of Lansdowne, and among his successors
-have been many statesmen, such as Lord John Russell,
-Mr. Gladstone, and Lord Goschen; authorities on finance,
-as Lord Overstone, Mr. Newmarch, and Lord Avebury;
-and eminent writers on statistics, as Dr. Farr, Sir Robert
-Giffen, and the Right Hon. Charles Booth. As becomes
-the orderly mind of a statistician, the society has been
-very regular in its publications, having for seventy
-years issued a yearly volume in quarterly parts, which
-form a veritable mine of statistical information.</p>
-
-<p>The society presents a Guy medal (in memory of
-Dr. W. A. Guy) to the authors of valuable papers or to
-others who have promoted its work, and a Howard
-medal (in memory of the great philanthropist) to the
-author of the best essay on a prescribed subject, generally
-having relation to the public health. It has accumulated
-a fine library of about 40,000 volumes of a special
-character, containing the statistical publications of all
-civilised countries. It has conducted some special
-enquiries—as into medical charities, the production and
-consumption of meat and milk, and the farm school
-system of the Continent—upon which it has published
-reports.</p>
-
-<p>Among recent developments of statistical method in
-which the society has taken part may be mentioned the
-use of index-numbers for affording a standard of comparison
-between statistics of different years, and a means
-of correction of errors that would otherwise arise; and
-the increasing use of the higher mathematical analysis
-in determining the probabilities of error and defining the
-curves of frequency in statistical observations. Professor
-Edgeworth, Messrs. Bowley, Yule, Hooker, and others,
-have made contributions to the <i>Journal</i> of the society
-on these matters.</p>
-
-<p>In 1844 an Ethnological Society was established,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_162" id="Page_162">{162}</a></span>
-under the presidency of Sir Charles Malcolm. Dr.
-Richard King, the founder, became its secretary. In
-1846 Dr. J. C. Prichard became president, and he and
-Dr. King fulfilled respectively the same functions in an
-ethnological sub-section of the section of zoology of the
-British Association, which then met for the first time.
-In Prichard's first anniversary address to the society, he
-defines ethnology as "the history of human races or of
-the various tribes of men who constitute the population
-of the world. It comprehends all that can be learned
-as to their origin and relations to each other." Prichard
-died in 1848, and Sir C. Malcolm resumed the presidency,
-which he held until his death on November 12, 1851.
-In that year ethnology was transferred from the zoological
-to the geographical section of the British Association.
-Sir B. C. Brodie became the next president of the society.
-He retired in 1854, and was succeeded by Sir James
-Clark. The fourth and last volume of the first series
-of the society's <i>Journal</i> was published in 1856, and a
-series of <i>Transactions</i> begun in 1861. At that time
-Mr. John Crawfurd was president of the society, and he
-retained the office until his death in 1868, when he was
-succeeded by Professor Huxley.</p>
-
-<p>In 1862 Dr. James Hunt, the Honorary Foreign
-Secretary of the Ethnological Society, withdrew from it,
-and founded the Anthropological Society of London,
-which held its first meeting on February 24, 1863, under
-his presidency. In his inaugural address, he defined
-anthropology as the science of the whole nature of man,
-and ethnology as the history or science of nations or
-races. The new society was active and aggressive. It
-published translations of works of such writers as
-Broca, Pouchet, Vogt, and Waitz, and of the famous
-treatise of Blumenbach. Some of the papers read before
-it attracted much attention, and were thought to have a
-political bias. Many men whose names were well known
-in the scientific world adhered to the Ethnological<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_163" id="Page_163">{163}</a></span>
-Society, and that society, under Mr. Crawfurd, entered
-upon a more active career. The rivalry between the
-two societies was prosecuted with great vigour until
-January, 1871, when Professor Huxley effected an
-amalgamation between them.</p>
-
-<p>The title of the combined societies was agreed upon
-as the "Anthropological Institute of Great Britain and
-Ireland," to which, in 1907, has been added by the King's
-command the prefix "Royal." In 1871 the department
-of ethnology in the section of biology in the British
-Association became the department of anthropology,
-and in 1884 anthropology became a section of itself.
-This was the final recognition by the Parliament of
-Science that Hunt had fought for twenty years before.
-In the interval, the claim of anthropology to this
-recognition had been established by many great works,
-such as Huxley's <i>Man's Place in Nature</i>, Darwin's
-<i>Descent of Man</i>, Tylor's <i>Early History of Mankind</i>, and
-Lubbock's <i>Prehistoric Times</i>. Besides its annual
-<i>Journal</i>, the Anthropological Institute publishes a
-monthly periodical entitled <i>Man</i>, and it has issued
-several separate monographs. In 1878 the branch of
-anthropology, aptly termed "Folk-lore" by the late
-Mr. W. J. Thoms, became so popular as to call for the
-establishment of a separate society, which publishes a
-quarterly journal entitled <i>Folk-lore</i>, and has annually
-issued one or more volumes of collections of folk-lore.</p>
-
-<p>In 1844 a new departure was taken by the establishment
-of the British Archological Association, a body
-which was intended to take the same place with regard
-to archology that the British Association occupied
-with regard to science, holding meetings in various
-parts of the country where there existed objects of
-specially archological interest. It held its first meeting
-at Canterbury, under the presidency of Lord Albert
-Conyngham (afterwards Lord Londesborough), and
-arranged its work in four sections—primval, medival,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_164" id="Page_164">{164}</a></span>
-architectural, and historical. Before a second meeting
-could be held, violent dissensions arose, and the
-association split into two. In the result honours were
-divided between the two bodies, those who retained the
-leadership of Lord Albert retaining also the title of
-British Archological Association; while those who had
-for their president the Marquis of Northampton retained
-the control of the <i>Archological Journal</i>, and adopted
-the title of "Archological Institute of Great Britain
-and Ireland," to which has since been prefixed the word
-"Royal." Both bodies still exist, though the causes of
-controversy have long died out.</p>
-
-<p>Shortly afterwards, County Archological Societies in
-London and greater London began to be formed. In
-1846 the Sussex Society, in 1853 the Essex Society, in
-1854 the Surrey Society, in 1855 the London and
-Middlesex Society, and in 1857 the Kent Society were
-established. Each of these societies has published
-transactions and other works of solid value. In each
-the annual or more frequent excursion to places of
-archological interest within the county is an essential
-feature, tending to the dissemination of knowledge and
-to the preservation of antiquities, and affording the
-advantages of social intercourse. Societies have also
-been established for the like purposes within more
-restricted areas, as in Hampstead, Battersea, Balham,
-Lewisham, Whitechapel, and elsewhere.</p>
-
-<p>Of merely publishing societies, the Percy, the
-Camden, the Shakespeare, and the Arundel have run
-their course; but many others, as the Roxburgh, the
-Harleian, the New Palographic, and the Palontological
-still exist to delight their subscribers with the
-reproduction of rare works.</p>
-
-<p>In this summary account of the principal Learned
-Societies of London it has not been possible to include
-many societies of great importance, such as the Colleges
-of Physicians and Surgeons, the numerous societies<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_165" id="Page_165">{165}</a></span>
-connected with other professional pursuits, the Linnan,
-Zoological, Botanical, and other societies devoted to
-natural history; the Royal Astronomical Society, which
-has important public functions; the Royal Academy, and
-other institutions devoted to art. The roll of Learned
-Societies is being constantly increased. Among recent
-additions may be mentioned the British Academy for
-Historical Studies, and the Sociological Society.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_166" id="Page_166">{166}</a></span></p>
-</div>
-
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-<div class="chapter">
-<h2><a name="LITERARY_SHRINES_OF_OLD_LONDON" id="LITERARY_SHRINES_OF_OLD_LONDON">LITERARY SHRINES OF OLD LONDON</a></h2>
-
-<p class='p3'><span class="smcap">By Elsie M. Lang</span></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img src="images/image_013.jpg" width="50" height="47" alt="" />
-</div>
-
-<p class='p3'>From the Borough to St. James's</p>
-
-
-
-<div>
-<img class="drop-cap" src="images/drop-l.png" width="100" height="123" alt="" />
-</div>
-
-<p class="drop-cap">Leigh Hunt was of opinion that "one of the best
-secrets of enjoyment is the art of cultivating
-pleasant associations," and, with his example
-before us, we will endeavour to recall some of
-those that are to be met with on a walk from the Borough
-to St. James's, from one of the poorest parts of our city
-to one of the richest. The Borough, dusty, noisy, toil-worn
-as it is, is yet, he tells us, "the most classical
-ground in the metropolis." From the "Tabard" inn—now
-only a memory, though its contemporary, the
-"George," hard by, gives us some idea of its look in
-medival times—there rode forth, one bright spring morning,
-"Sir Jeffrey Chaucer" and "nyne and twenty"
-pilgrims "in a companye ... to wenden on (a)
-pilgrimage to Caunterbury with ful devout courage." A
-fellow-poet of Chaucer's, John Gower, lies buried close
-at hand in Southwark Cathedral, "under a tomb of stone,
-with his image of stone also over him." He was one
-of the earliest benefactors of this church, then known as
-St. Mary Overy, and founded therein a chantry, where
-masses should be said for the benefit of his soul. Stones
-in the pavement of the choir likewise commemorate John
-Fletcher, Philip Massinger, and Edmund Shakespeare,
-who lie in unmarked graves somewhere within the
-precincts of the cathedral.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_167" id="Page_167">{167}</a></span></p>
-
-<p>Not a stone's throw from the Borough is the Bankside,
-extending from Blackfriars Bridge out beyond Southwark,
-a mean and dirty thoroughfare, with the grey Thames
-on one side, and on the other dull houses, grimy warehouses,
-and gloomy offices. How changed from the semi-rural
-resort of Elizabethan days, when swans floated on
-the river, and magnificent barges, laden with gaily dressed
-nobles and their attendants, were continually passing by!
-Great must have been the pleasure traffic then, for
-according to Taylor, "the Water Poet," who plied his
-trade as waterman and wrote his verses on the Bankside
-in the early days of Elizabeth's successor, "the number
-of watermen and those that live and are maintained by
-them, and by the labour of the oar and scull, between
-the bridge of Windsor and Gravesend, cannot be fewer
-than forty thousand; the cause of the greater half of
-which multitude hath been the players playing on the
-Bankside." Besides the players, the brilliant band of
-dramatists who shed lustre on the reign of the maiden
-Queen frequented it, not only on account of the
-pleasantness of its situation, but because of the near
-proximity of the theatres, for the Globe, the Rose,
-and the Hope all stood on the site now occupied by
-the brewery of Messrs. Barclay and Perkins, while the
-Swan was not far off. It is a well-authenticated fact that
-both Shakespeare and Ben Jonson played at the Globe,
-and patronised the "Falcon" tavern, the name of which
-still lingers in Falcon Dock and Falcon Wharf, Nos. 79
-and 80, Bankside; and while in the meantime they were
-producing their masterpieces, Chapman, Dekker, and
-Middleton were at the height of their fame, Beaumont
-and Fletcher about to begin their career, and Philip
-Massinger was newly arrived in town. Some of these
-Bankside dramatists were well born and rich—such as
-Francis Beaumont, whose father was a Knight and a
-Justice of the Common Pleas; and John Fletcher, who
-was a son of the Bishop of London. Others were of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_168" id="Page_168">{168}</a></span>
-obscure birth and penniless—like Ben Jonson, who had
-been forced to follow the trade of a bricklayer, and
-Dekker and Marston, whom he twitted "with their
-defective doublet and ravelled satin sleeves," and Philip
-Massinger, who in early days went about begging
-urgently for the loan of 5. But whatever they had or
-lacked, certain it is that their common art levelled all
-barriers between them, for though the chief of all the
-friendships on the Bankside was that of Beaumont and
-Fletcher—between whom was "a wonderful consimilarity
-of fancy ... which caused the dearnesse of friendship
-between them so that they lived together on the
-Bankside ... (and had) the same cloaths and cloaks
-between them"—yet Massinger collaborated with Fletcher
-in at least thirteen plays, with Dekker in one, and with
-Ford in two, while Dekker was occasionally associated
-with Middleton, and Middleton with Webster and Drayton.
-But the Elizabethan dramatists did not confine themselves
-to the Bankside; on certain nights they repaired to the
-"Mermaid" tavern, which used to stand on the south
-side of Cheapside, between Bread and Friday Streets,
-to attend the meetings of the famous Mermaid Club,
-said to have been founded by Sir Walter Raleigh. Here
-were to be found Shakespeare, Spenser, Beaumont,
-Fletcher, Ben Jonson, Carew, Donne, and many others,
-in eager witty converse. Beaumont well described
-the brilliancy of these gatherings in his poem to
-Ben Jonson:—</p>
-
-<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
-<span class="i0">"What things have we seen<br /></span>
-<span class="i0">Done at the Mermaid! Heard words that have been<br /></span>
-<span class="i0">So nimble, and so full of subtle flame,<br /></span>
-<span class="i0">As if that everyone from whence they came<br /></span>
-<span class="i0">Had meant to put his whole wit in a jest<br /></span>
-<span class="i0">And had resolved to live a fool the rest<br /></span>
-<span class="i0">Of his dull life."<br /></span>
-</div></div>
-
-<p>Another favourite haunt of theirs was the "Boar's
-Head," which stood on the spot now marked by the statue<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_169" id="Page_169">{169}</a></span>
-of William IV., at the junction of Eastcheap and Gracechurch
-Street. At this tavern Falstaff and Prince Hal
-concocted many of their wildest pranks. In later days the
-Elizabethan poets and dramatists, led by Ben Jonson, went
-even further afield—to the "Devil" tavern, which stood
-at No. 1, Fleet Street, where they held their meetings in
-a room called the "Apollo," the chief adornments of which,
-a bust of Apollo and a board with an inscription,
-"Welcome to the oracle of Apollo," are still to be seen
-in an upper room of Messrs. Child's Bank, which now
-occupies the site. Ben Jonson tells us that "the first
-speech in my 'Catiline,' spoken to <i>Scylla's Ghost</i>, was
-writ after I had parted with my friends at the 'Devil'
-tavern; I had drank well that night, and had brave
-notions."</p>
-
-<p>We have records of the deaths of two at least of
-these dramatists on the Bankside—viz., that of Philip
-Massinger, who died "in his own house, near the play-house
-on the Bankside," in 1639; and Fletcher, "who dyed
-of the plague on the 19th of August, 1625." "The parish
-clerk," says Aubrey, "told me that he was his (Fletcher's)
-Taylor, and that Mr. Fletcher staying for a suit of cloathes
-before he retired into the country, Death stopped his
-journey and laid him low there."</p>
-
-<p>Cheapside, so named from the Chepe, or old London
-market, along the south side of the site of which it runs,
-has been a place of barter ever since the reign of
-Henry VI., when a market was held there daily for the
-sale of every known commodity. It is easy to see where
-the vendors of some of the articles had their stands by
-the names of the surrounding streets—Bread Street, Fish
-Street, Milk Street, etc. Later on the stalls were transformed
-into permanent shops, with a dwelling-place for
-their owners above, and a fair-sized garden at the back.
-Despite the commercial spirit that has always pervaded
-this region, it has given birth to two famous poets—the
-sweet songster Herrick, who sings in one of his poems of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_170" id="Page_170">{170}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
-<span class="i0">"The golden Cheapside where the earth<br /></span>
-<span class="i0">Of Julia Herrick gave to me my birth,"<br /></span>
-</div></div>
-
-<p>golden, perhaps, having reference to his father, who was
-a goldsmith; and greater still, John Milton, who first
-saw the light in Bread Street, at the sign of the "Spread
-Eagle," in a house which was afterwards destroyed in the
-Great Fire. It must have been a house of comfortable
-dimensions, for it covered the site now occupied by
-Nos. 58 to 63, the business premises of a firm who exhibit
-a bust of Milton, with an inscription, in a room on their
-top floor. Milton's father, moreover, had grown rich in
-his profession, which was that of a scrivener, had been
-made a Judge, and knighted five years before the birth
-of his son, so it is evident the poet began life in easy
-circumstances. He was baptised in All Hallows, a church
-in Bread Street destroyed in 1897. In Bow Church there
-is a tablet in memory of Milton, which was taken from
-All Hallows. When he was ten years of age he began
-to go to Paul's School, which stood in those days on
-the east side of St. Paul's Churchyard, between Watling
-Street and Cheapside. Aubrey records that "when he
-went to schoole, when he was very young, he studied
-very hard, and sat up very late, commonly till twelve or
-one o'clock at night, and his father ordered the mayde
-to sitt up for him, and at these years (ten) he composed
-many copies of verses which might well have become a
-riper age." He continued at this school, the old site
-of which is marked by a tablet on a warehouse, until he
-was sixteen. Some twenty years later Samuel Pepys
-was a pupil at Paul's School, and later on in life witnessed
-its destruction in the Great Fire. Milton would seem
-to have always cherished a great affection for the city,
-for after his return from his travels he seldom lived beyond
-the sound of Bow Bells, once only venturing as far as
-Westminster; and when he died he was buried in St.
-Giles's, Cripplegate, in the same grave as his father.
-Indeed, the city proper was the birthplace of several<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_171" id="Page_171">{171}</a></span>
-poets, for was not Pope born in Lombard Street, Gray
-in Cornhill, and Edmund Spenser in East Smithfield,
-while Lord Macaulay spent his earlier years in Birchin
-Lane?</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img src="images/image_030.jpg" width="600" height="379" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><p class='center'><span class="smcap">Cheapside, with the Cross, as they appeared in 1660.</span></p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p>In the narrow confines of Paternoster Row, where the
-tall fronts of the houses are so close together that only
-a thin strip of sky is visible between them, Charlotte
-Bront and her sister Anne, fresh from the rugged solitudes
-of their bleak Yorkshire moors, awoke on the
-morning of their first visit to the great capital of which
-they had so often dreamed, and, looking out of the dim
-windows of the Chapter Coffee-house, saw "the risen
-sun struggling through the fog, and overhead above the
-house-tops, co-elevate almost with the clouds ... a
-solemn orbed mass dark blue and dim the dome" (of
-St. Paul's).</p>
-
-<p>Fleet Street has always been the haunt of the
-"knights of the pen," and even in these modern days
-the names of newspapers stare at the passer-by on every
-side, while at every step he jostles an ink-stained satellite
-of some great journal. But although these ink-stained
-ones are to be met with in Fleet Street at every hour
-of the day and night, they do not live there like the
-writers of old time—Michael Drayton, for instance, who
-"lived at ye baye-windowe house next the east end of
-St. Dunstan's Church"; and Izaak Walton, who kept a
-linen-draper's shop "in a house two doors west of the
-end of Chancery Lane," and on his infrequent holidays
-went a-fishing in the River Lea at Tottenham High
-Cross. Abraham Cowley, again, was born over his father's
-grocer's shop, which "abutted on Sargeants' Inn," and
-here, as a little child, he devoured the <i>Faerie Queen</i>, and
-was made "irrecoverably a poet." James Shirley lived
-near the Inner Temple Lane; John Locke in Dorset
-Court. In Salisbury Square, formerly Salisbury Court,
-Thomas Sackville, first Earl of Dorset, the precursor of
-Spenser, John Dryden, and Samuel Richardson, all had<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_172" id="Page_172">{172}</a></span>
-a residence at one time or another. Richardson built a
-large printing establishment on the site now occupied
-by Lloyd's newspaper offices, where he continued to carry
-on business many years after he had removed his private
-residence to the West End. He was buried, moreover,
-in St. Bride's Church in 1761, a large stone in the nave
-between pews 12 and 13 recording the fact. But greatest
-and most constant of Fleet Street habitus was Dr.
-Johnson. For ten years he lived at 17, Gough Square,
-busy in an upper room upon his great Dictionary. Here
-he lost his "beloved Tetty," to whose memory he ever
-remained faithful. "All his affection had been concentrated
-on her. He had neither brother nor sister, neither
-son nor daughter." Although twenty years his senior,
-with a complexion reddened and coarsened by the too
-liberal use of both paint and strong cordials, yet "to
-him she was beautiful as the Gunnings, and witty as
-Lady Mary." On leaving Gough Square he lived for
-a few years in the Temple, where he received his first
-visit from Boswell, and made the acquaintance of Oliver
-Goldsmith. The latter was then living at 6, Wine Office
-Court, Fleet Street, where Johnson, visiting him one
-morning in response to an urgent message, found that
-"his landlady had arrested him for his rent." He showed
-Johnson his MS. of the just-completed <i>Vicar of
-Wakefield</i>, which he looked into, and instantly comprehending
-its merit, went out and sold it to a bookseller
-for sixty pounds. In 1765 Johnson returned to Fleet
-Street, and lived for eleven years at 7, Johnson's Court.
-Here Boswell dined with him for the first time on Easter
-Day, 1773, and found to his surprise "everything in very
-good order." Walking up the Court one day in company
-with Topham Beauclerk, Boswell confessed to him that
-he "had a veneration" for it, because the great doctor
-lived there, and was much gratified to learn that Beauclerk
-felt the same "reverential enthusiasm." In later years
-Dickens stole up this Court one dark December evening,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_173" id="Page_173">{173}</a></span>
-and, with beating heart, dropped his first original MS.
-into the letter-box of <i>The Monthly Magazine</i>, the office
-of which stood on the site now occupied by Mr. Henry
-Sell's premises. No. 8, Bolt Court, was the next and last
-residence of Dr. Johnson; here, on December 13th, 1784,
-he met the inevitable crisis, for which he had always felt
-an indescribable terror and loathing, and passed peacefully
-and happily away. Johnson had always had a
-great predilection for club or tavern life, partly because
-it enabled him to escape for a while from the hypochondria
-which always dogged his footsteps. He loved nothing
-so much as to gather kindred spirits around him and
-spend long evenings in congenial conversation. He would
-sit, "the Jupiter of a little circle, sometimes indeed nodding
-approbation, but always prompt on the slightest contradiction
-to launch the thunders of rebuke and sarcasm."
-There was not much expense attached to these gatherings,
-for it is recorded of one of the clubs he founded that
-the outlay was not to exceed sixpence per person an
-evening, with a fine of twopence for those who did not
-attend. Among the Fleet Street haunts thus frequently
-resorted to by Dr. Johnson and his friends were the
-"Cocke," patronised in former years by Pepys, and in later
-years by Thackeray, Dickens, and Tennyson; the
-"Cheshire Cheese," the only house of the kind which
-remains as it was in Dr. Johnson's day; the "Mitre," also
-formerly patronised by Pepys; and the "Devil," where
-the poets laureate had been wont to repair and read their
-birthday odes. St. Clement Danes, too, is connected with
-Johnson, for, in spite of his love of festivity, he was devout,
-and regularly attended this church, occupying pew No. 18
-in the north gallery, now marked by a brass plate.
-Boswell records that "he carried me with him to the
-church of St. Clement Danes, where he had his seat,
-and his behaviour was, as I had imagined to myself,
-solemnly devout."<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_174" id="Page_174">{174}</a></span></p>
-
-<p>One more memory of Fleet Street before we leave
-it, in connection with Dick's Coffee-house, which used
-to stand at Nos. 7 and 8. In December, 1763, the poet
-Cowper, then a student in the Inner Temple, was appointed
-Clerk of the Journals of the House of Lords. Delicate,
-shy, intensely sensitive, and with a strong predisposition
-to insanity, the dread of these onerous public duties disturbed
-the balance of his morbid brain. His madness
-broke out one morning at Dick's, as he himself afterwards
-narrated. He said:</p>
-
-<div class="blockquot">
-
-<p>"At breakfast I read the newspaper, and in it a letter, which the
-further I perused it the more closely engaged my attention. I cannot
-now recollect the purport of it; but before I had finished it, it appeared
-demonstratively true to me that it was a libel or satire upon me. The
-author appeared to be acquainted with my purpose of self-destruction,
-and to have written that letter on purpose to secure and hasten the
-execution of it. My mind probably at this time began to be disordered;
-however it was, I was certainly given to a strong delusion. I said within
-myself, 'Your cruelty shall be gratified, you shall have your revenge,'
-and flinging down the paper in a fit of strong passion, I rushed hastily
-out of the room, directing my way towards the fields, where I intended to
-find some lane to die in, or if not, determined to poison myself in a ditch,
-when I could meet with one sufficiently retired."</p></div>
-
-<p>This paroxysm ended in Cowper trying to hang himself,
-but, the rope breaking, he went down to the Thames to
-the Custom House Quay and threatened to drown himself.
-This attempt, however, also failed, and friends
-interfering, he was removed to an asylum, where he
-remained eighteen months.</p>
-
-<p>From Fleet Street it is but a step to the Temple, with
-its grey quiet corners full of echoing memories, stretching
-back even to the days of Shakespeare, whose <i>Twelfth
-Night</i> was performed before an audience of his contemporaries
-in the self-same Middle Temple Hall that
-still confronts us. The names of Henry Fielding,
-Edmund Burke, John Gower, Thomas Shadwell, William
-Wycherley, Nicholas Rowe, Francis Beaumont, William
-Congreve, John Horne Tooke, Thomas Day, Tom Moore,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_175" id="Page_175">{175}</a></span>
-Sheridan, George Colman, jun., Marston, and Ford, are
-all upon the Temple rolls and each must in his day
-have been a familiar figure among the ancient buildings.
-But Charles Lamb is the presiding genius of the place.</p>
-
-<div class="blockquot">
-
-<p>"I was born and passed the first seven years of my life in the Temple,"
-he tells us. "Its church, its halls, its garden, its fountains, its river
-... these are my oldest recollections. Indeed it is the most elegant
-spot in the metropolis. What a transition for a countryman visiting
-London for the first time, the passing from the crowded Strand or Fleet
-Street, by unexpected avenues into its magnificent ample squares, its
-classic green recesses. What a cheerful liberal look hath that portion of
-it, which from three sides, overlooks the greater gardens, that goodly pile
-... confronting with massy contrast, the lighter, older, more
-fantastically shrouded one, named of Harcourt, with the cheerful Crown
-Office Row (place of my kindly engendure) right opposite the stately
-stream, which washes the garden foot.... A man would give something
-to have been born in such a place."</p></div>
-
-<p>When Lamb was twenty-five years of age he went back
-to live in the Temple, at 16, Mitre Court Buildings, in
-an "attic storey for the air." His bed faced the river,
-and by "perking on my haunches and supporting my
-carcase with my elbows, without much wrying my neck
-I can see," he wrote to a friend, "the white sails glide
-by the bottom of King's Bench Walk as I lie in my bed."
-Here he passed nine happy years, and then, after a short
-stay in Southampton Buildings, he returned to the
-Temple for the second time, to 4, Inner Temple Lane,
-fully intending to pass the remainder of his life within
-its precincts. His new set of chambers "looked out
-upon a gloomy churchyard-like court, called Hare Court,
-with three trees and a pump in it." But fate intervened,
-and he and his sister soon after left the Temple, never
-to return. It was no easy parting, however, for he wrote
-in after years, "I thought we never could have been torn
-up from the Temple. Indeed it was an ugly wrench....
-We never can strike root so deep in any other
-ground."<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_176" id="Page_176">{176}</a></span></p>
-
-<p>It was when Dr. Johnson had a set of chambers on
-the first floor of No. 1, Inner Temple Lane, that Boswell
-first went to see him. Boswell wrote:</p>
-
-<div class="blockquot">
-
-<p>"He received me very courteously, but it must be confessed that his
-apartment, furniture, and morning dress were sufficiently uncouth. His
-brown suit of clothes looked very rusty, he had on a little old shrivelled
-unpowdered wig which was too small for his head, his shirt-neck and
-knees of his breeches were loose, his black worsted stockings ill drawn
-up, and he had a pair of unbuckled shoes by way of slippers. But all
-these slovenly peculiarities were forgotten the moment that he began
-to talk."</p></div>
-
-<p>Boswell, indeed, conceived so violent an admiration for
-him that he took rooms in Farrar's Buildings in order
-to be near him. Oliver Goldsmith seems to have followed
-his example, for he went to lodge first in 2, Garden Court,
-and afterwards in 2, Brick Court, on the right-hand side,
-looking out over the Temple Garden. Thackeray, who,
-years afterwards, lodged in the same set of rooms, wrote:</p>
-
-<div class="blockquot">
-
-<p>"I have been many a time in the Chambers in the Temple which
-were his, and passed up the staircase, which Johnson and Burke and
-Reynolds trod to see their friend, their poet, their kind Goldsmith—the
-stair on which the poor women sat weeping bitterly when they heard that
-the greatest and most generous of men was dead within the black oak
-door."</p></div>
-
-<p>A stone slab with the inscription, "Here lies Oliver
-Goldsmith," was placed on the north side of Temple
-Church, as near as possible to the spot where he is
-supposed to have been buried.</p>
-
-<p>No. 2, Fountain Court, was the last house of William
-Blake, the poet-painter, the seer of visions, who had a
-set of rooms on the first floor, from whence a glimpse
-of the river was to be obtained. It was very poorly
-furnished, though always clean and orderly, and decorated
-only with his own pictures, but to the eager young
-disciples who flocked around him it was "the house of
-the Interpreter." When he lay there upon his death-bed,
-at the close of a blazing August day in 1827, beautiful
-songs in praise of his Creator fell from his lips, and as
-his wife, his faithful companion of forty-five years of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_177" id="Page_177">{177}</a></span>
-struggle and stress, drew near to catch them more distinctly,
-he told her with a smile, "My beloved! they are
-not mine! no, they are not mine!"</p>
-
-<p>Passing out into the Strand, we are confronted by
-the Law Courts. In former days this site was occupied
-by a network of streets, one of which was Shire Lane,
-where the members of the Kit Cat Club first held their
-gatherings, and toasted Lady Mary Wortley Montagu,
-when, as a child of seven, enthroned on her proud
-father's knee, she spent "the happiest hour of her life,"
-overwhelmed with caresses, compliments, and sweetmeats.
-The famous "Grecian" stood in Devereux Court, and the
-"Fountain" where Johnson, on his first arrival in London,
-read his tragedy <i>Irene</i> to his fellow-traveller Garrick, on
-the site since occupied by Simpson's for several generations.
-The Strand "Turk's Head" was at No. 142, and
-patronised by Johnson, because "the mistress of it is
-a good civil woman and has not much business"; and the
-"Coal Hole," immortalised by Thackeray as the "Cave
-of Harmony" in <i>The Newcomes</i>, where Terry's Theatre
-now uprears its front. But the chief literary association
-of the Strand is that of Congreve, who spent his last
-years in Surrey Street, "almost blind with cataracts," and
-"never rid of the gout," but looking, as Swift wrote to
-Stella, "young and fresh and cheerful as ever." He had
-always been a favourite with society, and Surrey Street
-was thronged by his visitors, among whom were four of
-the most beautiful women of the day—Mrs. Bracegirdle,
-Mrs. Oldfield, Lady Mary Wortley Montagu, and
-Henrietta Duchess of Marlborough. Voltaire, too, who
-greatly admired his work, sought him out when staying
-at the "White Peruke," Covent Garden, and was much
-disgusted by the affectation with which Congreve begged
-to be regarded as a man of fashion, who produced airy
-trifles for the amusement of his idle hours. "If you had
-been so unfortunate as to have been a <i>mere</i> gentleman,"
-said Voltaire, "I should never have taken the trouble of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_178" id="Page_178">{178}</a></span>
-coming to see you." In spite of the looseness of his
-life, Congreve had early acquired habits of frugality, and
-continuing to practise them when the need for economy
-had disappeared, he contrived to amass a fortune of
-10,000, which, on his death in 1789, he bequeathed to
-the Duchess of Marlborough, his latest infatuation. This
-sum, which would have restored the fallen fortunes of
-his nearest relatives, was a mere nothing to the wealthy
-beauty, who expended it in the purchase of a magnificent
-diamond necklace, which she continually wore in memory
-of the dead dramatist.</p>
-
-<p>The whole of Covent Garden is classic ground, from
-its association with the wits of Dryden's time, when Bow
-Street and Tavistock Street were in turn regarded as
-the Bond Street of the fashionable world. Edmund
-Waller, William Wycherley, and Henry Fielding, each
-lived in Bow Street. In Russell Street stood the three
-great coffee-houses of the seventeenth and eighteenth
-centuries—Wills', Button's, and Tom's. Wills' stood at
-No. 21, at the corner of Russell Street and Bow Street;
-here Pepys stopped one February evening on his way
-to fetch his wife, and heard much "witty and pleasant
-discourse"; here Dryden had his special arm-chair, in
-winter by the fire, and in summer on the balcony, and
-was always ready to arbitrate in any literary dispute. It
-is said that Pope, before he was twelve years old, persuaded
-his friends to bring him here, so that he might gaze
-upon the aged Dryden, the hero of his childish imagination.
-Dr. Johnson, Addison, Steele, and Smollett were
-all regular visitors. Button's, which stood on the south
-side of Russell Street, and Tom's at No. 17, were equally
-popular, and the Bedford Coffee-house "under the piazza
-in Covent Garden" was another favourite resort.</p>
-
-<p>It was in Russell Street, in the bookshop of Thomas
-Davies, the actor, that Boswell had his eagerly desired
-first meeting with Dr. Johnson, which he describes as
-follows:—<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_179" id="Page_179">{179}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="blockquot">
-
-<p>"At last, on Monday, the 16th of May, when I was sitting in Mr. Davies'
-back parlour, after having drunk tea with him and Mrs. Davies, Johnson
-came unexpectedly into the shop, and Mr. Davies having perceived him
-through the glass door in the room in which we were sitting advancing
-towards us, he announced his awful approach to me somewhat in the
-manner of an actor in the part of Horatio, when he addresses Hamlet on
-the appearance of his father's ghost: 'Look, my lord, he comes.'"</p></div>
-
-<p>In St. Paul's, Covent Garden, were buried Samuel
-Butler, author of <i>Hudibras</i>, Mrs. Centlivre, Thomas
-Southerne, John Wolcot, and Wycherley, but when the
-church was burned down in 1786 all trace of their graves
-disappeared.</p>
-
-<p>One other literary memory before we leave the Strand;
-it is connected with what was once No. 30, Hungerford
-Stairs (now part of Villiers Street), where stood Warren's
-blacking factory, in which the child Dickens passed days
-of miserable drudgery, labelling pots of blacking for a
-few shillings a week. He describes it in <i>David Copperfield</i>,
-under the name of "Murdstone and Grimsby's
-warehouse, down in Blackfriars." It was "a crazy old
-house, with a wharf of its own, abutting on the water
-when the tide was in, and on the mud when the tide was
-out, and literally overrun with rats."</p>
-
-<p>Pall Mall, the centre of club-land, in the eighteenth
-century was the "ordinary residence of all strangers,"
-probably on account of its proximity to the fashionable
-chocolate and coffee-houses (the forerunners of the clubs),
-which, as Defoe wrote, "were all so close together that
-in an hour you could see the company at them all." In
-Pall Mall itself were the "Smyrna," the "King's Arms,"
-and the "Star and Garter." At the "King's Arms" the
-Kit Cat Club met when it had quitted its quarters in
-Shire Lane, and at the "Star and Garter" the "Brothers"
-were presided over by Swift. The "Tully's Head," a
-bookshop kept by the wonderful Robert Dodsley, footman,
-poet, dramatist, and publisher, was another favourite
-lounging place of the times.</p>
-
-<p>In Charing Cross were the "Rummer," at No. 45, kept<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_180" id="Page_180">{180}</a></span>
-by the uncle of Matthew Prior; Lockett's, two doors
-off; the "Turk's Head," next door to No. 17; and the
-British Coffee-house, which stood on the site now
-occupied by the offices of the London County Council.</p>
-
-<p>In St. James's Street the great coffee and chocolate-houses
-positively elbowed each other up and down, just
-as the clubs which succeeded them do in the present day.
-The "Thatched House," where the Literary Club, founded
-by Dr. Johnson, held its meetings under the presidency
-of Swift and his contemporaries; the "St. James's," where
-Addison "appeared on Sunday nights," and "Swift was
-a notable figure," for "those who frequented the place
-had been astonished day after day, by the entry of a
-clergyman, unknown to any there, who laid his hat on
-the table, and strode up and down the room with rapid
-steps, heeding no one, and absorbed in his own thoughts.
-His strange manner earned him, unknown as he was to all,
-the name of the "mad parson""; White's, to which Colley
-Cibber was the only English actor ever admitted; and
-the "Cocoa Tree," nicknamed the "Wits' Coffee-house,"
-which, in Gibbon's time, afforded "every evening a sight
-truly English. Twenty or thirty, perhaps, of the finest
-men in the kingdom, in point of fashion and fortune,
-supping at little tables covered with a napkin, in the
-middle of a coffee-room, upon a bit of cold meat or
-a sandwich and drinking a glass of punch."</p>
-
-<p>Lord Byron was the most romantic literary figure
-connected with St. James's Street. His first home in
-London, after his youthful days, was at No. 8, where
-he went to live after the publication of his <i>English
-Bards and Scotch Reviewers</i>. From this house the proud
-and gloomy young man set forth to take his seat in the
-House of Lords as a peer of the realm. Moore wrote:</p>
-
-<div class="blockquot">
-
-<p>"In a state more alone and unfriended, perhaps, than any youth of
-his high station had ever before been reduced to on such an occasion—not
-having a single individual of his own class, either to take him by the
-hand as friend, or acknowledge him as an acquaintance."<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_181" id="Page_181">{181}</a></span></p></div>
-
-<p>But this state of affairs was not to endure. On February
-29th, 1812, <i>Childe Harold</i> appeared.</p>
-
-<div class="blockquot">
-
-<p>"The effect was electric; his fame had not to wait for any of the
-ordinary gradations, but seemed to spring up like the palace of a fairy
-tale—in a night.... From morning till night flattering testimonies
-of his success reached him; the highest in the land besieged his door, and
-he who had been so friendless found himself the idol of London society."</p></div>
-
-<p>Perhaps we cannot do better than end these literary
-associations of club-land with a few words about a man
-who in his time was one of its most brilliant figures—Theodore
-Hook. When he was released from the King's
-Bench prison, with his debt to the Crown still hanging
-over him,</p>
-
-<div class="blockquot">
-
-<p>"he took a large and handsome house in Cleveland Row. Here he
-gave dinners on an extensive scale, and became a member of all the best
-clubs, particularly frequenting those where high play was the rule. His
-visiting book included all that was loftiest and gayest and in every sense
-most distinguished in London society. The editor of <i>John Bull</i>, the
-fashionable novelist, the wittiest and most vivid talker of the time, his
-presence was not only everywhere welcome but everywhere coveted and
-clamoured for. But the whirl of extravagant dissipation emptied his
-pocket, fevered his brain, and shortened the precious hours in which alone
-his subsistence could be gained."</p></div>
-
-<p>In the height of his social triumphs there always hung
-inexorably over him the Damocles sword of debt. When
-at last he gave way under the strain, and went into comparative
-retirement at Fulham, the number of dinners at
-the Athenum Club, where he had always had a particular
-table kept for him near the door (nicknamed Temperance
-Corner), fell off by upwards of three hundred per annum.</p>
-
-<hr class="tb" />
-
-<p>These are a few out of the many literary memories
-that we may encounter in an afternoon's stroll from the
-Borough to St. James's, along one of the great city's
-busiest highways; others, indeed, there are, meeting us
-at every corner, but space forbids our dwelling upon
-them, and regretfully we must pass them by.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_182" id="Page_182">{182}</a></span></p>
-</div>
-
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-<div class="chapter">
-<h2><a name="CROSBY_HALL" id="CROSBY_HALL">CROSBY HALL</a></h2>
-
-<p class='p3'><span class="smcap">By the Editor</span></p>
-
-
-
-<div>
-<img class="drop-cap" src="images/drop-f.png" width="100" height="119" alt="" />
-</div>
-
-<p class="drop-cap">Few old mansions in the city of London could
-rival the ancient dwelling-place of the brave
-old knight, Sir John Crosby. Its architectural
-beauties and historical associations endeared it
-to all lovers of old London, and many a groan was heard
-when its fate was doomed, and the decree went forth
-that it was to be numbered among the departed glories
-of the city. Unhappily, the hand of the destroyer could
-not be stayed, and the earnest hope had to be abandoned
-that many a generation of Londoners might be permitted
-to see this relic of ancient civic life, and to realise from
-this example the kind of dwelling-place wherein the city
-merchants of olden days made their homes, and the
-salient features of medival domestic architecture.
-Shorn of its former magnificence, reduced to a fraction
-of its original size, it retained evidences of its ancient
-state and grandeur, and every stone and timber told of
-its departed glories, and of the great events of which
-Crosby Hall had been the scene. It has been associated
-with many a name that shines forth in the annals of
-English history, and imagination could again people the
-desolate hall with a gay company of courtiers and
-conspirators, of knights and dames, of city merchants
-gorgeous in their liveries of "scarlet and green," or
-"murrey and plunket," when pomp and pageantry,
-tragedy and death, dark councils and mirth, and gaiety<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_183" id="Page_183">{183}</a></span>
-and revellings followed each other through the portals
-of the mansion in one long and varied procession. It
-will be our pleasure to recall some of these scenes which
-were enacted long ago, and to tell of the royal, noble,
-and important personages who made this house their
-home.</p>
-
-<p>Many people who live in our great overgrown modern
-London—who dwell in the West End, and never wander
-further east than Drury Lane Theatre or St. Pancras
-Station—have never seen Crosby Hall, and know not
-where it stood. If you go along Cheapside and to
-the end of Cornhill, and then turn to the left, up
-Bishopsgate, the old house stood on the right hand side;
-or you may approach along Holborn and London Wall.
-Alas! the pilgrimage is no longer possible. Bishopsgate
-is historic ground. The name is derived from the
-ancient gate of the city that was built, according
-to Stow, by some Bishop of London, "though now
-unknown when or by whom, for ease of passengers
-toward the east, and by north, as into Norfolk, Suffolk,
-Cambridgeshire, &c." Some authorities name Bishop
-Erkenwald, son of King Offa, as the first builder of
-Bishopsgate, and state that Bishop William, the
-Norman, repaired the gate in the time of his namesake,
-the Conqueror. Henry III. confirmed to the German
-merchants of the Hanse certain liberties and privileges,
-which were also confirmed by Edward I. in the tenth
-year of his reign, when it was discovered that the
-merchants were bound to repair the gate. Thereupon
-Gerald Marbod, alderman of the Hanse, and other Hanse
-merchants, granted 210 marks sterling to the Mayor and
-citizens, and covenanted that they and their successors
-should from time to time repair the gate. In 1479, in
-the reign of Edward IV., it was entirely rebuilt by
-these merchants, and was a fine structure adorned with
-the effigies of two bishops, probably those named above,
-and with two other figures supposed to represent King<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_184" id="Page_184">{184}</a></span>
-Alfred and Alred, Earl of Mercia, to whom Alfred
-entrusted the care of the gate. This repair was probably
-necessary on account of the assault of the bastard
-Falconbridge on this and other gates of the city, who
-shot arrows and guns into London, fired the suburbs,
-and burnt more than three-score houses. The gate has
-been frequently repaired and rebuilt, its last appearance
-being very modern, with a bishop's mitre on the
-key-stone of the arch, and surmounted by the city arms
-with guarding griffins. London "improvements" have
-banished the gate, as they have so many other interesting
-features of the city.</p>
-
-<p>The neighbourhood is interesting. Foremost among
-the attractions of Bishopsgate Street is the beautiful
-church of St. Helen, formerly the church of the Nunnery
-of St. Helen, the Westminster of the city, where lie so
-many illustrious merchants and knights and dames, and
-amongst them the founder of Crosby Hall and other
-owners of the mansion. The church is closely associated
-with the hall. There in that fine house they lived.
-There in the church hard by their bodies sleep, and their
-gorgeous tombs and inscriptions tell the story of their
-deeds. St. Helen's Church was one of the few which
-escaped destruction at the Great Fire of London.
-There was an early Saxon church here, but the earliest
-parts of the existing building date back to the thirteenth
-century. There are some blocked-up lancet windows of
-the transept, a staircase doorway in the south-east corner,
-another doorway which led from the nun's choir into the
-convent, and a lancet window. There is a Renaissance
-porch, the work of Inigo Jones, erected in 1663. The
-main part of the structure is Decorated and Perpendicular,
-the fifteenth century work being due to the builder of
-Crosby Hall, who left 500 marks for its restoration and
-improvement. The whole church possesses many
-interesting features, of which want of space prevents a
-full description.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_185" id="Page_185">{185}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img src="images/image_032.jpg" width="426" height="600" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><p class='center'><span class="smcap">Crosby Hall.</span></p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p>Sir John Crosby determined to seek a site for his
-house close to this church and the Nunnery of St. Helen,
-and in 1466 obtained a lease from Alice Ashford, prioress
-of the Nunnery, of some lands and tenements for a period
-of ninety-nine years for the yearly rent of 11 6s. 8d.
-Doubtless many good citizens of London in the present
-day would like to make so good a bargain.</p>
-
-<p>Sir John Crosby, whose honoured name is preserved to
-this day by the noble house which he built, was a worthy
-and eminent citizen of London—one of the men who
-laid the foundations of English trade and commercial
-pre-eminence. He attained to great wealth, and his
-actions and his bequests prove that he was a very worthy
-man. Some idle story stated that, like the famous Dick
-Whittington, he was of humble origin and unknown
-parentage. Stow says: "I hold it a fable said of him,
-to be named Crosby, from his being found by a cross."
-A very pretty conceit! He was discovered, when an
-infant, or having attained the age of boyhood, sleeping
-on the steps of the market cross at Cheapside or Charing;
-and the sympathetic folk who found him there named him
-Cross-by! Our ancestors, like ourselves, loved a romance,
-a nice cheerful story of a poor boy attaining to rank and
-opulence, marrying his master's daughter and doing brave
-deeds for his King and country. The notable career of
-Sir Richard Whittington, thrice Lord Mayor of London,
-was so embellished with romantic incident. He was no
-poor man's son who begged his way to London,
-accompanied by his favourite cat. Was he not the
-youngest son of Sir William Whittington, the owner of
-Pauntley Manor in Gloucestershire, and of Solers Hope,
-Hereford? and was not his famous cat the name of his
-ship which brought him wealth and affluence? Or shall
-we accept the story of the sale of the cat to the King
-of Barbary? So the legend of the foundling Crosby is
-equally a fable, woven by the skilful imaginations of
-our Elizabethan forefathers. Sir John came of goodly<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_186" id="Page_186">{186}</a></span>
-parentage. There was a Johan de Crosbie, King's Clerk
-in Chancery, in the time of Edward II.; a Sir John
-Crosbie, Knight, and Alderman of London, in the reign
-of Edward III.; and a John Crosby, Esquire, and servant
-of King Henry IV., who gave to him the wardship of
-Joan, daughter and sole heir of John Jordaine,
-Fishmonger—<i>i.e.</i>, a member of the Worshipful Company
-of Fishmongers of the City of London. This John
-Crosby was, according to Stow, either the father or
-grandfather of the builder of Crosby Hall.</p>
-
-<p>The family held the manor and advowson of the
-church of Hanworth-on-the-Thames, not far from
-Hampton Court. This manor was owned by the Sir John
-Crosbie who lived in the time of King Edward III., and
-after his death it was placed in the hands of a certain
-Thomas Rigby for safe custody until John Crosbie, the
-son and heir of the knight, should have grown up to
-man's estate and attained his majority. This estate
-seems afterwards to have passed into the hands of King
-Henry VIII., who, on account of its pleasant situation,
-delighted in it above any other of his houses.</p>
-
-<p>The father of the founder of the Hall was a friend
-of Henry Lord Scrope, of Masham, the unfortunate
-nobleman who was beheaded at Southampton for
-complicity in a plot against the life of Henry V. He
-bequeathed to his friend, John Crosbie, "a woollen gown
-without furs and one hundred shillings."</p>
-
-<p><i>Bene natus</i>, <i>bene vestitus</i>, and doubtless <i>modice
-doctus</i>, the qualifications of an All Souls' Fellow, John
-Crosby began his career, embarking in trade and
-commerce, and undertaking the duties of a worthy citizen
-of London. The palmy days of commercial enterprise
-inaugurated by King Henry VII. had not yet set in.
-Before his time the trade between England and the
-Continent was much more in the hands of foreigners than
-of English merchants. English trading ships going
-abroad to sell English goods and bring back cargoes of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_187" id="Page_187">{187}</a></span>
-foreign commodities were few in number. The English
-merchant usually stayed at home, and sold his wares
-to the strangers who came each year to London and the
-other trading ports, or bartered them for the produce of
-other lands, with which their ships were freighted. The
-German Hanse merchants, the Flemish traders, the
-Lombards, and many others, enjoyed great privileges in
-their commerce with England. But, in spite of this, men
-like Crosby were able to amass wealth and make large
-profits. Sir John's dealings extended far into other
-countries, and he had important connections with the
-Friscobaldi of Florence, who with the Medici were the
-great bankers and engrossers of the commerce of Europe.</p>
-
-<p>Of the great merchants who laid the foundations of
-our English commerce we often know little more than
-their names, the offices they held, with a meagre catalogue
-of their most philanthropic labours and their wills. It
-is possible, however, to gather a little more information
-concerning the owner of Crosby Place. The records at
-Guildhall tell us that in 1466, the seventh year of
-Edward IV., John Crosby, Grocer, was elected with three
-others a Member of Parliament. He was also elected in
-the same year one of the auditors of the City and Bridge
-House. In 1468 we find him elected Alderman of Broad
-Street Ward, and two years later Sheriff of London.
-He took a prominent part in the old city life of London,
-and was a prominent member of two of the old City
-Companies, the Grocers and the Woolmen. Of the former
-he twice served the office of warden, and preserved a
-strong affection for his company, bequeathing to it by
-his will considerable gifts. The honourable and
-important post of Mayor of the Staple at Calais was
-also conferred upon him.</p>
-
-<p>He seems to have been a brave and valiant man, as
-well as a successful trader and good citizen. During his
-time the safety of the City of London was endangered
-owing to the attack of Thomas Nevil, the bastard Lord<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_188" id="Page_188">{188}</a></span>
-Falconbridge, to which reference has already been made.
-Stow tells the story graphically. This filibusterer came
-with his rebel company and a great navy of ships near
-to the Tower—</p>
-
-<div class="blockquot">
-
-<p>"Whereupon the mayor and aldermen fortified all along the Thames
-side, from Baynard's Castle to the Tower, with armed men, guns and other
-instruments of war, to resist the invasion of the mariners, whereby the
-Thames side was safely preserved and kept by the aldermen and other
-citizens that assembled thither in great numbers. Whereupon the rebels,
-being denied passage through the city that way, set upon Aeldgate,
-Bishopsgate, Criplegate, Aeldersgate, London Bridge, and along the river
-of Thames, shooting arrows and guns into the city, fired the suburbs, and
-burnt more than three score houses. And farther, on Sunday, the eleventh
-of May, five thousand of them assaulting Aeldgate, won the bulwarks, and
-entered the city; but the portclose being let down, such as had entered were
-slain, and Robert Basset, portcullis alderman of Aeldgate ward, with the
-recorder, commanded in the name of God to draw up the portclose; which
-being done, they issued out, and with sharp shot and fierce fight, put their
-enemies back so far as St. Bottolph's Church, by which time Earl Rivers, and
-lieutenant of the Tower, was come with a fresh company, which joining
-together discomfited the rebels, and put them to flight, whom the said Rober,
-Basset with the other citizens chased to the Mile's End, and from thence,
-some to Poplar, some to Stratford, slew many, and took many of them
-prisoners. In which space the Bastard, having assayed other places on the
-water side, and little prevailed, fled toward his ships."</p></div>
-
-<p>In this determined defence of the city against a
-formidable attack, John Crosbie took a leading part,
-bravely contending against the forces of the foe and
-fighting fiercely. Twelve aldermen with the recorder
-were knighted in the field by King Edward IV., and
-amongst those so honoured were the Lord Mayor of
-London, William Taylor, and John Crosby. Our hero
-was no carpet knight, no poor-spirited tradesman and
-man of peace. Like many other famous citizens of his
-age, he could don his armour and fight for his King
-and country, and proved himself a gallant leader of a
-citizen army, the best sort of army in the world. He
-was a devoted adherent of the House of York, and a
-favourite of Edward IV., who sent him on an important
-embassage to the Duke of Burgundy, who had married<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_189" id="Page_189">{189}</a></span>
-Elizabeth of York, the King's sister. The secret object of
-the mission was an alliance against Francis I. of France.
-The embassy was also sent to the Duke of Brittany with
-the same object, and also to secure the persons of the
-Earls of Richmond and Pembroke, who had taken refuge
-in France, and there felt themselves secure. The future
-Richard III. was nearly persuaded to return to
-England; his foot was almost on the ship's deck, when,
-fortunately for him, his voyage was prevented. If he
-had continued his journey he would never have worn
-a crown, as he would have lacked a head whereon to
-place it.</p>
-
-<p>Sir John Crosby not long before his death began to
-build the beautiful house in Bishopsgate "in the place
-of certain tenements, with their appurtenances let to him
-by Alice Ashfield, Prioress of St. Helen's....
-This house he built of stone and timber, very large and
-beautiful, and the highest at that time in London," as
-Stow records. The whole structure was known as Crosby
-Place, and rivalled the dimensions of a palace. All
-that remained of this magnificent building was the Hall,
-together with the Council Room and an ante-room,
-forming two sides of a quadrangle. It was built of stone,
-and measured 54 feet by 27 feet, and was 40 feet in height.
-The Hall was lighted by a series of eight Perpendicular
-windows on one side and six on the other, and by a
-beautifully-constructed octagonal bay window. It had a
-fine roof of exquisite workmanship richly ornamented, and
-a wide chimney. Much of the original stone pavement
-had vanished. The Council Chamber was nearly as large
-as the hall, being only 14 feet less in length.</p>
-
-<p>Crosby Hall has been the scene of many notable
-historic scenes. In the play of "Edward IV." by
-Heywood, Sir John Crosby figures as Lord Mayor of
-London, a position which he never occupied, and the
-King dines with him and the Alderman after the defeat
-of the rebel Falconbridge at Crosby Hall. He had<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_190" id="Page_190">{190}</a></span>
-just received the honour of knighthood, and thus
-muses:—</p>
-
-<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
-<span class="i0">"Ay, marry, Crosby! this befits thee well.<br /></span>
-<span class="i0">But some will marvel that, with scarlet gown,<br /></span>
-<span class="i0">I wear a gilded rapier by my side."<br /></span>
-</div></div>
-
-<p>It is quite possible that the King thus dined with his
-favourite, but there is no historical account that confirms
-the poet's play. The builder did not long enjoy his
-beautiful house, and died in 1475, leaving a second wife
-and a daughter by his first wife, whom he seemed to
-have loved with a more ardent affection than his second
-spouse. Soon after his death the man whom he tried
-to trap in France, Richard, Duke of Gloucester, came to
-reside here, and made it the scene of endless plots and
-conspiracies against his luckless nephews and his many
-enemies. Crosby Place is frequently alluded to by
-Shakespeare in his play, "Richard the Third."
-Gloucester tells Catesby to report to him at Crosby Place
-the treacherous murder of the Princes in the Tower, and
-he bids the Lady Anne to "presently repair to Crosby
-Place."</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img src="images/image_033.jpg" width="600" height="423" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><p class='center'><span class="smcap">St. Paul's Cathedral, with Lord Mayor's Show on the water.</span></p>
-
-<p class='center'><i>Engraved by Pugh, 1804.</i></p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p>The house in 1502 passed into the possession of Sir
-Bartholomew Reed, Lord Mayor, and then to John Best,
-Alderman, from whom it was purchased by Sir Thomas
-More, the famous Lord Chancellor. Doubtless it was in
-the chambers of Crosby Place that he wrote his <i>Utopia</i>.
-He sold the lease to his beloved friend, Antonio
-Bonvisi, an Italian gentleman, who had long lived in
-England; and when the Dissolution of Monasteries took
-place, and the possessions of the Priory of St. Helen's
-were seized by the Crown, the King allowed the Italian
-to retain possession of Crosby Place. We need not
-record all its worthy owners. It was frequently used as
-a fitting place for the lodging of foreign ambassadors,
-and here Sir John Spencer, having restored the house,
-kept his mayoralty in 1594. Enormously wealthy, he
-lived in great splendour and entertained lavishly. He<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_191" id="Page_191">{191}</a></span>
-was a great favourite of Queen Elizabeth. It was not
-from Crosby Hall, but from his house at Canonbury, that
-his only daughter effected her escape in a baker's basket
-in order to wed the handsome Lord Compton. Terrible
-was the father's wrath, and everyone knows the charming
-story of the Queen's tactful intervention, how she induced
-Sir John to stand as sponsor with her for an unknown
-boy, whom Sir John declared should be the heir of
-all his wealth, and how this boy was, of course, Lady
-Compton's child, and how a full reconciliation was
-effected. It is a very pretty story. It is not so pleasant
-to read of the disastrous effect of the possession of so
-much wealth had on the brain of Lord Compton, when
-he came into possession of his lady's riches. She was
-a little vixenish, spoilt and exacting, if she really
-intended seriously the literal meaning of that well-known
-letter which she wrote setting forth her needs and
-requirements. It is too long to quote. Lord Compton
-was created Earl of Northampton, and that precious child
-of his when he grew to man's estate was killed fighting
-for the Royalist cause in the Civil War.</p>
-
-<p>During that disastrous time Crosby became a prison
-for Royalists, and later on a great part of the house
-was destroyed by fire, and its ancient glories
-departed. For a hundred years the Hall was used as
-a Nonconformist chapel. In 1778 part of the premises
-was converted into a place of business by Messrs. Holmes
-and Hall, the rest being used as private dwellings. It
-provided a model for the banqueting-hall of Arundel
-Castle, and some of the carved stones of the Council
-Chamber were removed to Henley-upon-Thames to adorn
-a dairy. Alien buildings soon covered the site of the
-destroyed portion of the old house. In 1831 it was left
-forlorn and untenanted, and in a state of considerable
-decay. Then arose a considerable excitement, of which
-the struggle of the present year reminds us. Crosby
-Hall was doomed. But zealous lovers of the antiquities<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_192" id="Page_192">{192}</a></span>
-of the city determined to try to save it. An appeal
-was made, and a restoration fund started, though, like
-many other restoration funds, it proved itself inadequate.
-A benevolent lady, Miss Hackett, gallantly came to the
-rescue, and practically saved Crosby Hall. Her idea
-was to convert it into a lecture hall for the Gresham
-Professors; but this plan came to nothing, though the
-building was repaired, the south wall of the Throne
-and Council Chambers being rebuilt. Then a company
-was formed to take over Miss Hackett's interest, and the
-Crosby Hall Literary and Scientific Institution was
-formed, but that scheme came to nothing. Then it was
-bought by Messrs. F. Gordon & Co., who restored the
-building, attached to it an annex of half-timbered
-construction, and converted the premises into a
-restaurant. Thus it remained for several years.
-Recently the site was acquired by a banking company,
-and its demolition was threatened. Immediate action
-was taken by Sir Vesey Strong, the Lord Mayor, and
-others, to save the building. The fight was fought
-strenuously and bravely. Apathy was found in some
-quarters where it would least have been expected, and
-all efforts were fruitless. It is deplorable to have to
-record that the last of the mansions of the old city
-magnates has been allowed to disappear, and that Crosby
-Hall is now only a memory.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_193" id="Page_193">{193}</a></span></p>
-
-
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-<h2><a name="THE_PAGEANT_OF_LONDON" id="THE_PAGEANT_OF_LONDON">THE PAGEANT OF LONDON</a></h2>
-
-<p class='p3'><span class="smcap">By the Editor</span></p>
-
-
-
-<div>
-<img class="drop-cap" src="images/drop-w.png" width="150" height="121" alt="" />
-</div>
-
-<p class="drop-cap">We have stated in the Preface that London
-needs no pageant or special spectacular
-display in order to set forth its wonderful
-attractions. London is in itself a pageant,
-far more interesting than any theatrical representation;
-and in this final chapter we will enumerate some of
-those other features of Old London life which have
-not found description in the preceding pictures. We
-will "stand by and let the pageant pass," or, rather,
-pass along the streets and make our own pageant.</p>
-
-<p>The great city is always changing its appearance,
-and travellers who have not seen it for several years
-scarcely know where they are when visiting some of
-the transformed localities. But however great the
-change, the city still exercises its powerful fascination
-on all who have once felt its strangely magnetic force,
-its singular attractiveness. Though the London County
-Council have effected amazing "improvements,"
-constructing a street which nobody wants and nobody
-uses, and spending millions in widening Piccadilly;
-though private enterprise pulls down ancient dwellings
-and rears huge hotels and business premises in their
-places—it is still possible to conjure up the memories
-of the past, and to picture to ourselves the multitudinous
-scenes of historic interest which Old London has
-witnessed. Learned writers have already in these
-volumes enabled us to transport ourselves at will to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_194" id="Page_194">{194}</a></span>
-the London of bygone times—to the medival city,
-with its monasteries, its churches, its palaces, its
-tragedies; to Elizabethan London, bright and gay, with
-young life pulsing through its veins; to the London of
-Pepys, with its merry-makings, its coarseness, and its
-vice. In this concluding chapter we will recall some
-other memories, and try to fill the background to the
-picture.</p>
-
-<p>Westminster, the rival city, the city of the court,
-with its abbey and its hall, we have not attempted to
-include in our survey. She must be left in solitary state
-until, perhaps, a new volume of this series may presume
-to describe her graces and perfections. The ever-growing
-suburbs of the great city, the West End, the
-fashionable quarter, Southern London across the river,
-with Lambeth and its memories of archbishops—all this,
-and much else that deserves an honoured place in the
-chronicles of the metropolis, we must perforce omit in
-our survey. Some of the stories are too modern to
-please the taste of those who revel in the past; and if
-the curious reader detects omissions, he may console
-himself by referring to some of the countless other books
-and guides which the attractions of London are ever
-forcing industrious scribes to produce.</p>
-
-
-<h3>Christ's Hospital</h3>
-
-<p>Many regrets were expressed when it was found
-necessary to remove this ancient school from London,
-and to destroy the old buildings. Of course, "everything
-is for the best in this best of possible worlds."
-Boys, like plants, thrive better in the open country,
-and London fogs are apt to becloud the brain as well
-as injure health. But the antiquary may be allowed
-to utter his plaint over the demolition of the old features
-of London life. The memorials of this ancient school
-cannot be omitted from our collection.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_195" id="Page_195">{195}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img src="images/image_035.jpg" width="600" height="462" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><p class='center'><span class="smcap">Christ's Hospital.</span></p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p>We are carried back in thought to the Friars, clad
-in grey habits, girt with cord, and sandal shod, who
-settled in the thirteenth century on the north side of
-what we now call Newgate Street, and, by the generosity
-of pious citizens, founded their monastery. Thus John
-Ewin gave them the land in the ward of Farringdon
-Without, and in the parish of St. Nicholas Shambles;
-William Joyner built the choir; William Wallis the
-nave; William Porter the chapter house; Gregory
-Bokesby the dormitories, furnishing it with beds;
-Bartholomew de Castello the refectory, where he feasted
-the friars on St. Bartholomew's Day. Queen Margaret,
-the second wife of Edward I., was a great benefactor
-of the order, and advanced two thousand marks towards
-the cost of a large church, which was completed in
-1327, and was a noble structure, 300 feet in length,
-89 feet in breadth, and 74 feet high. "Dick"
-Whittington built for the friars a splendid library, which
-was finished in 1424. The church was the favoured
-resting-place of the illustrious dead. Four queens, four
-duchesses, four countesses, one duke, two earls, eight
-barons, and some thirty-five knights reposed therein.
-In the choir there were nine tombs of alabaster and
-marble, surrounded by iron railings, and monuments
-of marble and brass abounded. The dissolution of
-monasteries came with greedy Henry, and the place was
-rifled. The crown seized the goodly store of treasure;
-the church became a receptacle for the prizes taken
-from the French; and Sir Martin Bowes, Mayor of
-London, for the sum of 50, obtained all the beautiful
-tombs and brasses, marble and alabaster, which were
-carted away from the desecrated shrine.</p>
-
-<p>But Henry's conscience smote him. The death of
-Charles Brandon, Duke of Suffolk, the King's boon
-companion, moved him "to bethink himself of his end,
-and to do some good work thereunto," as Fuller states.
-The church was reopened for worship, and Bishop<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_196" id="Page_196">{196}</a></span>
-Ridley, preaching at Paul's Cross, announced the
-King's gift of the conventual grounds and buildings,
-with the hospital of St. Bartholomew, for the relief
-of the poor. Letters patent were issued in 1545, making
-over to the Mayor and Commonalty of London for ever
-"the Grey Friars' Church, with all the edifices and
-ground, the fratry, library, dortor, chapter-house, great
-cloister, and the lesser tenements and vacant grounds,
-lead, stone, iron, etc.; the hospital of
-St. Bartholomew, West Smithfield,
-the church of the same, the lead, bells,
-and ornaments of the same hospital,
-with all messuages, tenements, and
-appurtenances."</p>
-
-<p>It was a poor return to the Church
-for all of that the King had robbed
-her. Moreover, he did not altogether
-abandon a little profit. He made the
-monastic church, now called the Christ
-Church, do duty for the parishes
-of St. Nicholas in the Shambles,
-St. Ewins, and part of St. Sepulchre,
-uniting these into one parish, and
-pulling down the churches of the first
-two parishes. It would be curious
-to discover what became of the
-endowments of these parishes, and of
-the fabrics.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img src="images/image_036.jpg" width="176" height="400" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><p class='center'>Carrying the Crug-basket</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p>For some years nothing was done to further the
-cause of this charity, but in 1552, when Bishop Ridley,
-who was a mightily convincing preacher, was discoursing
-upon charity before Edward VI., the boy-King was so
-moved that he conversed with the bishop, and, together
-with the Lord Mayor and aldermen of the city,
-determined to found three hospitals—Christ's Hospital
-for the education of poor children, St. Thomas's for the
-relief of the sick and diseased, and Bridewell for the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_197" id="Page_197">{197}</a></span>
-correction and amendment of the idle and the vagabond.
-Before his last illness, Edward had just strength enough
-to sign the charter for the founding of these institutions,
-ejaculating: "Lord, I yield Thee most hearty thanks
-that Thou hast given me life thus long to finish this
-work to the glory of Thy name." The good citizens of
-London, with their accustomed charity, immediately set
-to work, before the granting of the charter, to subscribe
-money for the repair of the old monastic buildings, and
-in 1552 three hundred and forty children were admitted,
-not so much for educational purposes as for their rescue
-from the streets, and the provision of shelter, food, and
-clothing. It must have been a welcome sight to the
-citizens to see them clothed in livery of russet cotton,
-the boys with red caps, the girls with kerchiefs on their
-heads, lining the procession when the Lord Mayor and
-aldermen rode to St. Paul's on Christmas Day. On the
-following Easter the boys and "mayden children" were
-in "plonket," or blue—hence the hospital derived the
-name of the Blue Coat School. The dress of the boys,
-concerning the origin of which many fanciful interpretations
-have been made, is the costume of the period
-generally worn by apprentices and serving men,
-consisting of a long blue coat, with leathern girdle, a
-sleeveless yellow waistcoat and yellow stockings, clerical
-bands and a small black cap completing the dress.
-"Four thousand marks by the year" from the royal
-exchequer were granted by the King for the maintenance
-of the school, which sum was largely supplemented by
-the citizens and other pious benefactors, such as Lady
-Ramsay, who founded "a free writing schoole for poor
-men's children" at the hospital. Camden says that at
-the beginning of the seventeenth century six hundred
-children were maintained and educated, and one thousand
-two hundred and forty pensioners relieved by the hospital
-in alms, and, later on, as many as one thousand one
-hundred and twenty children were cared for by this<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_198" id="Page_198">{198}</a></span>
-institution. The governors, moreover, started "place
-houses" in other districts—at Hertford, Ware, Reading,
-and Bloxburn—where boys were educated.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img src="images/image_037.jpg" width="300" height="227" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><p class='center'>Wooden Platters and Beer Jack.</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p>The buildings were greatly injured by the fire of
-1666, when the old monastic church was entirely
-destroyed. The great hall was soon rebuilt by Sir John
-Frederick, and then the famous Royal Mathematical
-School was founded through the exertions of Sir Robert
-Clayton, Sir Jonas Moore, Sir Christopher Wren, Sir
-Charles Scarbrough, and Samuel Pepys. King Charles II.
-granted a charter and 1,000 a year for seven years,
-and the forty boys who composed the school were called
-"King's boys." They were instructed in navigation, and
-wore a badge on the left shoulder. A subordinate
-mathematical school, consisting of twelve scholars,
-denoted "the Twelves," who wore a badge on the right
-shoulder, was subsequently formed. Pepys took a keen
-interest in the school, and a series of a large number
-of his letters is in existence which show the efforts
-he made to maintain the mathematical school. He tells
-also of a little romance connected with the hospital,
-which is worth recording. There was at that time a
-grammar school for boys and a separate school for
-girls. Two wealthy citizens left their estates, one to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_199" id="Page_199">{199}</a></span>
-a bluecoat boy, and the other to a bluecoat girl. Some
-of the governors thought that it would be well if these
-two fortunate recipients were married. So a public
-wedding was arranged at the Guildhall chapel, where
-the ceremony was performed by the Dean of St. Paul's,
-the bride, supported by two bluecoat boys, being given
-away by the Lord Mayor, and the bridegroom, attired
-in blue satin, being led to the altar by two bluecoat
-girls.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img src="images/image_038.jpg" width="300" height="199" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><p class='center'>Piggin: Wooden Spoon.
-Wooden Soup-ladle.</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p>A noble gift of Sir Robert Clayton enabled the
-governors to rebuild the east cloister and south front.
-The writing school was erected by Sir Christopher Wren
-in 1694, at the expense of Sir John Moore. The ward
-over the east side cloister was rebuilt in 1705 by Sir
-Francis Child, the banker, and in 1795 the grammar
-school was erected. Some of the buildings of the old
-monastery survived until the beginning of the last
-century, but they were somewhat ruinous and unsafe,
-hence, in 1803, a great building fund was formed. The
-hall erected after the great fire was pulled down, and
-a vast building in the Tudor style begun in 1825, which
-was so familiar to all who passed along the eastern
-end of Holborn. John Shaw was the architect. You
-will remember the open arcade, the buttresses and
-octagonal towers, and the embattled and pinnacled<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_200" id="Page_200">{200}</a></span>
-walls, and, above all, you will remember the crowd of
-happy boys, clad in their picturesque garb, kicking about
-the merry football. The dining hall was one of the
-finest rooms in London, being 187 feet long, 51 feet wide,
-and 47 feet high; lighted by nine large windows, those
-on the south side being filled with stained glass. There
-hung the huge charter picture, representing Edward VI.
-presenting the charter to the Lord Mayor, the Chancellor,
-officers of State, and children of the school being in
-attendance. This picture has been attributed to Holbein,
-but since the event occurred in 1553, and that artist
-could have produced no work later than 1534, the
-tradition is erroneous. Two portraits of Edward VI.
-are also in the possession of the hospital attributed to
-Holbein, but they have been proved to be the work of
-a later artist. Verrio's portrait of Charles II., and his
-picture of James II. receiving the mathematical boys,
-are very large canvases.</p>
-
-<p>It is unnecessary to describe all the buildings which
-so recently existed, but have now been swept away.
-It is more interesting to note some of the curious
-customs which exist or formerly existed in the school,
-and some of the noted of the old "Blues." Christ's
-Hospital was a home of old customs, some of them,
-perhaps, little relished by the scholars. Each boy had
-a wooden "piggin" for drinking small beer served out
-of a leathern or wooden jack; a platter, spoon, and
-soup-ladle of the same material. There was a quaint
-custom of supping in public on Sundays during Lent,
-when visitors were admitted, and the Lord Mayor or
-president of the governors sat in state. Quaint wooden
-candlesticks adorned the tables, and, after the supper,
-were carried away in procession, together with the
-tablecloths, crug-baskets, or baskets used for carrying
-bread, bowls, jacks, and piggins. Before the supper a
-hymn was sung, and a "Grecian," or head boy, read
-the prayers from the pulpit, silence being enforced by<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_201" id="Page_201">{201}</a></span>
-three blows of a wooden hammer. The supper then
-began, consisting of bread and cheese, and the visitors
-used to walk about between the tables. Then followed
-the solemn procession of the boys carrying their goods,
-and bowing repeatedly to the governors and their guests.
-It was a pleasing custom, honoured by the presence of
-many distinguished guests, and Queen Victoria and Prince
-Albert on one occasion witnessed the spectacle.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img src="images/image_039.jpg" width="600" height="441" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><p class='center'><span class="smcap">Christ's Hospital: the Garden.</span></p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p>Then there were the annual orations on St. Matthew's
-Day, commemorating the foundation of the school, and
-attended by the civic magnates. A state service was
-held in Christ Church, Newgate Street, and, afterwards,
-the Grecians delivered speeches, and a collection was
-made for the support of these headboys when they went
-to the University. The beadles delivered up their staves
-to the Court, and if no fault was found with these officers
-their badges were returned to them. The Company was
-regaled with "sweet cakes and burnt wine."</p>
-
-<p>At Easter there were solemn processions—first, on
-Easter Monday, to the Mansion House, when the Lord
-Mayor was escorted by the boys to Christ Church to
-hear the Spital or hospital sermon. On Easter Tuesday
-again the scholars repaired to the Mansion House, and
-were regaled with a glass of wine, in lieu of which
-lemonade, in more recent times, could be obtained, two
-buns, and a shilling fresh from the Mint, the senior
-scholars receiving an additional sum, and the Grecians
-obtained a guinea. Again the Spital sermon was
-preached. The boys were entitled, by ancient custom,
-to sundry privileges—to address the sovereign on his
-visiting the city, and the "King's boys" were entitled
-to be presented at the first drawing-room of the season,
-to present their charts for inspection, and to receive
-sundry gifts. By ancient privilege they were entitled to
-inspect all the curiosities in the Tower of London free
-of any charge, and these at one time included a miniature
-zoological garden.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_202" id="Page_202">{202}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img src="images/image_040.jpg" width="326" height="400" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><p class='center'><span class="smcap">Old Staircase.</span></p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p>Many are the notable men renowned in literature and
-art who have sprung from this famous school. Charles
-Lamb, S. T. Coleridge, Leigh Hunt, and countless other
-men might be mentioned who have done honour to their
-school. Some of their recollections of old manners
-reveal some strange educational methods—the severe
-thrashings, the handcuffing of runaways, the confining
-in dungeons, wretched holes, where the boys could just
-find room to lie down on straw, and were kept in solitary
-confinement and fed worse than prisoners in modern
-gaols. Bread and beer breakfasts were hardly the best
-diet for boys, and the meat does not always appear
-to have been satisfactory. However, all these bygone
-abuses have long ago disappeared. For some years the
-future of the hospital was shrouded in uncertainty.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_203" id="Page_203">{203}</a></span>
-At length it was resolved to quit London, and now
-the old buildings have been pulled down, and the school
-has taken a new lease of life and settled at Horsham,
-where all will wish that it may have a long and
-prosperous career. We may well conclude this brief
-notice of the old school in the words of the School
-Commissioners of 1867, who stated: "Christ's Hospital
-is a thing without parallel in the country and <i>sui generis</i>.
-It is a grand relic of the medival spirit—a monument
-of the profuse munificence of that spirit, and of that
-constant stream of individual beneficence, which is so
-often found to flow around institutions of that character.
-It has kept up its main features, its traditions, its
-antique ceremonies, almost unchanged, for a period of
-upwards of three centuries. It has a long and goodly
-list of worthies." We know not how many of these
-antique ceremonies have survived its removal, but we
-venture to hope that they may still exist, and that the
-authorities have not failed to maintain the traditions
-that Time has consecrated.</p>
-
-
-<h3>The City Churches</h3>
-
-<p>In the pageant of London no objects are more
-numerous and conspicuous than the churches which greet
-us at every step. In spite of the large number which
-have disappeared, there are very many left. There they
-stand in the centre of important thoroughfares, in obscure
-courts and alleys—here surrounded by high towering
-warehouses; there maintaining proud positions, defying
-the attacks of worldly business and affairs. A whole
-volume would be required to do justice to the city
-churches, and we can only glance at some of the most
-striking examples.</p>
-
-<p>The Great Fire played havoc with the ancient
-structures, and involved in its relentless course many
-a beautiful and historic church. But some few of them<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_204" id="Page_204">{204}</a></span>
-are left to us. We have already seen St. Bartholomew's,
-Smithfield, and glanced at the church of St. Helen,
-Bishopsgate, and old St Paul's. Wren's St. Paul's
-Cathedral has so often been described that it is not
-necessary to tell again the story of its building.<a name="FNanchor_11_11" id="FNanchor_11_11"></a><a href="#Footnote_11_11" class="fnanchor">[11]</a>
-"Destroyed by the Great Fire, rebuilt by Wren," is the
-story of most of the city churches; but there were some
-few which escaped. At the east end of Great Tower
-Street stands All Hallows Barking, so called from
-having belonged to the abbey of Barking, Essex. This
-narrowly escaped the fire, which burned the dial, and
-porch, and vicarage house. Its style is mainly
-Perpendicular, with a Decorated east window, and
-has some good brasses. St. Andrew's Undershaft,
-Leadenhall Street, opposite to which the May-pole was
-annually raised until "Evil May-day" put an end to
-the merry-makings, was rebuilt in 1520-32, and contains
-some mural paintings, much stained glass, and many
-brasses and monuments, including that of John Stow,
-the famous London antiquary. St. Catherine Cree, in
-the same street, was rebuilt in 1629, and consecrated by
-Laud. St. Dunstan's-in-the-East was nearly destroyed,
-and restored by Wren, the present nave being rebuilt
-in 1817. St. Dunstan's, Stepney, preserves its fifteenth
-century fabric, and St. Ethelburga's, Bishopsgate,
-retains some of its Early English masonry, and St.
-Ethelreda's, Ely Place, is the only surviving portion
-of the ancient palace of the Bishops of Ely. St. Giles',
-Cripplegate, stands near the site of a Saxon church built
-in 1090 by Alfun, the first hospitaller of the Priory of
-St. Bartholomew. Suffering from a grievous fire in
-1545, it was partially rebuilt, and in 1682 the tower
-was raised fifteen feet. Many illustrious men were
-buried here, including John Fox, John Speed, the
-historian, John Milton and his father, several actors<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_205" id="Page_205">{205}</a></span>
-of the Fortune Theatre, and Sir Martin Frobisher. In
-1861 the church was restored in memory of Milton, and
-a monument raised to him. This church saw the
-nuptials of Oliver Cromwell and Elizabeth Bowchier
-in 1620. All Hallows Staining, Mark Lane, escaped the
-fire, and its tower and west end are ancient. St. James',
-Aldgate, was built in 1622, and escaped the fire, which
-might have spared more important edifices; and St.
-Olave's, Hart Street, a building which shows Norman,
-Early English, Decorated, and Perpendicular work, was
-happily preserved. This is sometimes called Pepys's
-church, since he often mentions it in his diary, and lies
-buried here. There are other interesting monuments, and
-in the churchyard lie some of the victims of the Great
-Plague. St. Sepulchre's, near Newgate, was damaged
-by the fire, and refitted by Wren, but the main building
-is fifteenth century work. Several churches escaped the
-Great Fire, but were subsequently pulled down and
-rebuilt. Amongst these are St. Alphege, London Wall;
-St. Botolph-without, Aldersgate; St. Botolph's, St.
-Martin's Outwich. St. Mary Woolnoth was also
-damaged by the fire, and repaired by Wren. It stands
-on the site of an early church, which was rebuilt in
-the fifteenth century; but the greater part of the present
-church was built by Hawksmoor in 1716.</p>
-
-<p>A strange, weird, desolate city met the eyes of the
-people of London when the Great Fire had died away.
-No words can describe that scene of appalling ruin and
-desolation. But, with the energy for which Englishmen
-are remarkable, they at once set to work to restore their
-loss, and a master-mind was discovered who could
-grapple with the difficulty and bring order out of chaos.
-This wonderful genius was Sir Christopher Wren. He
-devised a grand scheme for the rebuilding of the city.
-Evelyn planned another. But property owners were
-tenacious of their rights, and clung to their own parcels
-of ground; so these great schemes came to nothing.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_206" id="Page_206">{206}</a></span>
-However, to Wren fell the task of rebuilding the fallen
-churches, and no less than fifty-two were entrusted to
-his care. He had no one to guide him; no school of
-artists or craftsmen to help him in the detail of his
-buildings; no great principles of architecture to direct
-him. Gothic architecture was dead, if we except the
-afterglow that shone in Oxford. He might have
-followed his great predecessor, Inigo Jones, and produced
-works after an Italian model. But he was no copyist.
-Taking the classic orders as his basis, he devised a style
-of his own, suitable for the requirements of the time
-and climate, and for the form of worship and religious
-usages of the Anglican Church. "It is enough for
-Romanists to hear the murmur of the mass, and see the
-elevation of the Host; but our churches are to be fitted
-for auditories," he once said.</p>
-
-<p>Of the churches built by Wren, eighteen beautiful
-buildings have already been destroyed. St. Christopher-le-Stocks
-is swallowed up by the Bank of England;
-St. Michael, Crooked Lane, disappeared in 1841, when
-approaches were made to New London Bridge; St.
-Bartholomew-by-the-Exchange made way for the Sun
-Fire Office; and St. Benet Fink was pulled down because
-of its nearness to the Royal Exchange. Since the
-passing of the Union of City Benefices Act in 1860,
-fourteen churches designed by Wren have succumbed,
-and attacks on others have been with difficulty warded
-off.<a name="FNanchor_12_12" id="FNanchor_12_12"></a><a href="#Footnote_12_12" class="fnanchor">[12]</a></p>
-
-<p>The characteristics of Wren's genius were his
-versatility, imagination, and originality. We will notice
-some of the results of these qualities of mind. The
-tower hardly ever enters into the architectural treatment
-of the interior. It is used as an entrance lobby or
-vestry. His simplest plan was a plain oblong, without
-columns or recesses, such as St. Mildred's, Bread Street,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_207" id="Page_207">{207}</a></span>
-or St. Nicholas', Cole Abbey. St. Margaret, Lothbury,
-St. Vedast, St. Clement, Eastcheap, have this simple form,
-with the addition of an aisle or a recess. His next
-plan consists of the central nave and two aisles, with
-or without clerestory windows; of this St. Andrew
-Wardrobe and St. Magnus the Martyr furnish good
-examples. The third plan is the domed church, such
-as St. Swithun and St. Mary Abchurch. The merits
-and architectural beauties of Wren's churches have been
-recently described in an able lecture delivered by
-Mr. Arthur Keen before the Architectural Association,
-a lecture which we should like to see expanded to the
-size of a book, and enriched with copious drawings.
-It would be of immense service in directing the minds
-of the citizens of London to the architectural treasures
-of which they are the heirs.</p>
-
-<p>The churches are remarkable for their beautifully
-carved woodwork, often executed or designed by
-Grinling Gibbons or his pupils. Pews, pulpits, with
-elaborate sounding boards, organ cases, altar pieces,
-were all elaborately carved, and a gallery usually was
-placed at the west end. Paintings by Sir James
-Thornhill and other artists adorn his churches, and
-the art of Strong the master mason, Jennings the
-carpenter, and Tijou the metal worker, all combined
-to beautify his structures.</p>
-
-<p>Within the limits of our space it is only possible
-to glance at the interiors of a few of these churches,
-and note some of the treasures therein contained.
-St. Andrew's, Holborn, has its original fifteenth century
-tower, recarved in 1704. It is known as the "Poet's
-Church," on account of the singers connected with it,
-including a contemporary of Shakespeare, John Webster,
-Robert Savage, Chatterton, and Henry Neele, and can
-boast of such illustrious rectors as Bishops Hacket and
-Stillingfleet, and Dr. Sacheverel. The spire of Christ
-Church, Spitalfields, built by Hawksmoor, is the loftiest<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_208" id="Page_208">{208}</a></span>
-in London, and has a fine peal of bells. In the church
-there is an early work of Flaxman—the monument of
-Sir Robert Ladbrooke, Lord Mayor. The name of
-St. Clement Danes reminds us of the connection of the
-sea-rovers with London. Strype says that the church
-was so named "because Harold, a Danish King, and
-other Danes, were buried there, and in that churchyard."
-He tells how this Harold, an illegitimate son of Canute,
-reigned three years, and was buried at Westminster;
-but, afterwards, Hardicanute, the lawful son of Canute,
-in revenge for the injury done to his mother and brother,
-ordered the body to be dug up and thrown into the
-Thames, where it was found by a fisherman and buried
-in this churchyard. There seems to be no doubt that there
-was a colony of peaceful Danes in this neighbourhood,
-as testified by the Danish word "Wych" given to a street
-hard by, and preserved in the modern Aldwych. It was
-the oldest suburb of London, the village of ldwic,
-and called Aldewych. Oldwych close was in existence
-in the time of the Stuarts. These people were allowed
-to reside between the Isle of Thorney, or Westminster,
-and Ludgate, and, having become Christians, they built
-a church for themselves, which was called <i>Ecclesia
-Clementis Danorum</i>.</p>
-
-<p>There is a wild story of the massacre of the Danes
-in this church in the days of Ethelred, as recorded in
-Strype's <i>Continuation of Stow</i>, and in the <i>Jomsvikinga
-Saga</i>. As Mr. Loftie has not found space in <i>Saxon
-London</i> to mention this colony of Danes and their
-doings, I venture to quote a passage from Mr. Lethaby's
-<i>Pre-Conquest London</i>, which contains some interesting
-allusions to these people:</p>
-
-<div class="blockquot">
-
-<p>"We are told that Sweyn made warfare in the land of King Ethelred,
-and drove him out of the land; he put <i>Thingumannalid</i> in two places.
-The one in Lundunaborg (London) was ruled by Eilif Thorgilsson, who
-had sixty ships in the Temps (Thames); the other was north in Sleswik.
-The Thingamen made a law that no one should stay away a whole night.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_209" id="Page_209">{209}</a></span>
-They gathered at the Bura Church every night when a large bell was
-rung, but without weapons. He who had command in the town (London)
-was dric Streona. Ulfkel Snilling ruled over the northern part of
-England (East Anglia). The power of the Thingamen was great. There
-was a fair there (in London) twice every twelve month, one about midsummer
-and the other about midwinter. The English thought it would
-be the easiest to slay the Thingamen while Cnut was young (he was ten
-winters old) and Sweyn dead. About Yule, waggons went into the
-town to the market, and they were all tented over by the treacherous
-advice of Ulfkel Snelling and Ethelred's sons. Thord, a man of the
-Thingumannalid, went out of the town to the house of his mistress, who
-asked him to stay, because the death was planned of all the Thingamen
-by Englishmen concealed in the waggons, when the Danes would go
-unarmed to the church. Thord went into the town and told it to Eilif.
-They heard the bell ringing, and when they came to the churchyard
-there was a great crowd who attacked them. Eilif escaped with three
-ships and went to Denmark. Some time after, Edmund was made King.
-After three winters, Cnut, Thorkel and Eric went with eight hundred
-ships to England. Thorkel had thirty ships, and slew Ulfkel Snilling,
-and married Ulfhild, his wife, daughter of King Ethelred. With Ulfkel
-was slain every man on sixty ships, and Cnut took Lundunaborg."</p></div>
-
-<p>Matthew, of Westminster, also records this massacre
-of the Danes, and other authorities consider that the
-account in the <i>Saga</i> is founded on fact. However that
-may be, the Danes undoubtedly had a colony here of
-their traders, merchants, and seamen, and dedicated their
-church to their favourite saint, St. Clement, the patron
-of mariners, whose constant emblem is an anchor. Nor
-was this the only location of the Northmen. Southwark
-was their fortified trading place, where they had a church
-dedicated to St. Olaf, the patron saint of Norway. His
-name remains in Tooley Street, not a very evident but
-certainly true derivative of St. Olaf's Street. There are
-three churches dedicated to St. Olave, who was none
-other than St. Olaf. St. Magnus, too, tells of the
-Northmen, who was one of their favourite saints. Going
-back to the church of St. Clement Danes, we notice that
-it was rebuilt in 1682 under the advice of Wren, the
-tower and steeple being added forty years later.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_210" id="Page_210">{210}</a></span>
-Dr. Johnson used to attend here, and a pillar near his
-seat bears the inscription:</p>
-
-<div class="blockquot">
-
-<p>"In this pew and beside this pillar, for many years attended Divine
-Service, the celebrated Dr. Johnson, the philosopher, the poet, the great
-lexicographer, the profound moralist, and chief writer of his time. Born
-1709, died 1794. In remembrance and honour of noble faculties, nobly
-employed, some inhabitants of the parish of St. Clement Danes have
-placed this slight memorial, <span class="smcap lowercase">A.D.</span> 1851."</p></div>
-
-<p>One of the most important city churches is St. Mary-le-Bow,
-Cheapside. It is one of Wren's finest works;
-but the old church, destroyed by the Great Fire, had a
-notable history, being one of the earliest Norman
-buildings in the country. Stow says it was named
-St. Mary <i>de Arcubus</i> from its being built on arches of
-stone, these arches forming a crypt, which still exists.
-The tower was a place of sanctuary, but not a very
-effectual one, as Longbeard, a ringleader of a riot, was
-forced out of his refuge by fire in 1190, and Ducket,
-a goldsmith, was murdered. The Bow bells are famous,
-and one of them was rung nightly for the closing of
-shops. Everyone knows the protesting rhyme of the
-'prentices of the Cheap when the clerk rang the bell
-late, and the reassuring reply of that officer, who
-probably feared the blows of their staves. Lanterns
-hung in the arches of the spire as beacons for travellers.
-The bells of Bow are said to have recalled Dick
-Whittington, and those who have always lived in the
-district where their sound can be heard are
-deemed very ignorant folk by their country cousins.
-Whittington's church was St. Michael's Paternoster
-Royal, Thames Street, which he rebuilt, and wherein he
-was buried, though his body has been twice disturbed.
-The church was destroyed by the Great Fire, and rebuilt
-by Wren.</p>
-
-<p>It is impossible for us to visit all the churches, each
-of which possesses some feature of interest, some
-historical association. They impart much beauty to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_211" id="Page_211">{211}</a></span>
-every view of the city, and not one of them can be
-spared. Sometimes, in this utilitarian age, wise men
-tell us that we should pull down many of these ancient
-buildings, sell the valuable sites, and build other churches
-in the suburbs, where they would be more useful.
-Eighteen of Wren's churches have been thus destroyed,
-besides several of later date. The city merchants of
-old built their churches, and made great sacrifices in
-doing so, for the honour of God and the good of their
-fellow-men, and it is not for their descendants to pull
-them down. If suburban people want churches, they
-should imitate the example of their forefathers, and
-make sacrifices in order to build them. Streets, old
-palaces, interesting houses, are fast vanishing; the
-churches—at least, some of them—remain to tell the
-story of the ancient civic life, to point the way to
-higher things amid the bustling scenes of mercantile
-activity and commercial unrest. The readers of these
-Memorials will wish "strength i' th' arme" to the City
-Churches Preservation Society to do battle for these
-historic landmarks of ancient London.</p>
-
-
-<h3>The Pageant of the Streets</h3>
-
-<p>Nothing helps us to realise the condition of ancient
-London, its growth and expansion, like a careful study
-of its street-names. It shows that in the Middle Ages
-London was very different from that great, overcrowded,
-noisy, and far-extending metropolis which we see to-day.
-It is difficult for us in these days to realise the small
-extent of ancient London, when Charing was a village
-situated between the cities of Westminster and London;
-or, indeed, to go back in imagination even a century
-or two ago, when the citizens could go a-nutting on
-Notting Hill, and when it was possible to see Temple
-Bar from Leicester Square, then called Leicester Fields,
-and with a telescope observe the heads of the Scotch<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_212" id="Page_212">{212}</a></span>
-rebels which adorned the spikes of the old gateway.
-In the early coaching days, on account of the impassable
-roads, it required three hours to journey from Paddington
-to the city. Kensington, Islington, Brompton, and
-Paddington were simply country villages, separated by
-fields and pastures from London; and the names of
-such districts as Spitalfields, Bethnal Green, Smithfield,
-Moorfields, and many others, now crowded with houses,
-indicate the once rural character of the neighbourhood.</p>
-
-<p>The area enclosed by the city walls was not larger than
-Hyde Park. Their course has been already traced, but we
-can follow them on the map of London by means of the
-names of the streets. Thus, beginning at the Tower, we
-pass on to Aldgate, and then to Bishopsgate. Outside was
-a protecting moat, which survives in the name Houndsditch,
-wherein doubtless dead dogs found a resting
-place. Then we pass on to London Wall, a street which
-sufficiently tells its derivation. Outside this part of the
-wall there was a fen, or bog, or moor, which survives
-in Moorfields, Moorgate Street, and possibly Finsbury;
-and Artillery Street shows where the makers of bows
-and arrows had their shops, near the artillery ground,
-where the users of these weapons practised at the butts.
-The name of the Barbican tells of a tower that guarded
-Aldersgate, and some remains of the wall can still be
-seen in Castle Street and in the churchyard of St. Giles',
-Cripplegate, the derivation of which has at length been
-satisfactorily determined by Mr. Loftie in our first
-chapter, and has nothing to do with the multitude of
-cripples which Stow imagined congregated there. Thence
-we go to Newgate and the Old Bailey, names that tell
-of walls and fortifications. Everyone knows the name
-of the Bailey court of a castle, which intervened between
-the keep or stronger portion of the defences and the
-outer walls or gate. The court of the Old Bailey
-suggests to modern prisoners other less pleasing ideas.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_213" id="Page_213">{213}</a></span>
-Now the wall turns southward, in the direction of
-Ludgate, where it was protected by a stream called
-the Fleet, whence the name Fleet Street is derived.
-Canon Isaac Taylor suggests that Fleet Street is really
-Flood Street, from which Ludgate or Floodgate takes
-its name. We prefer the derivation given by Mr. Loftie.
-On the south of Ludgate, and on the bank of the
-Thames, stood a mighty strong castle, called Baynard
-Castle, constructed by William the Conqueror to aid
-him, with the Tower of London, to keep the citizens
-in order. It has entirely disappeared, but if you look
-closely at the map you will find a wharf which records
-its memory, and a ward of the city also is named after
-the long vanished stronghold. Now the course of the
-wall follows the north bank of the river Thames, and
-the names Dowgate and Billingsgate record its memory
-and of the city gates, which allowed peaceable citizens
-to enter, but were strong to resist foes and rebels.</p>
-
-<p>Within these walls craftsmen and traders had their
-own particular localities, the members of each trade
-working together side by side in their own street or
-district; and although now some of the trades have
-disappeared, and traders are no longer confined to one
-district, the street-names record the ancient home of
-their industries. The two great markets were the
-Eastcheap and Westcheap, now Cheapside. The former,
-in the days of Lydgate, was the abode of the butchers.
-Martin Lyckpenny sings:</p>
-
-<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
-<span class="i0">"Then I hyed me into Est-chepe<br /></span>
-<span class="i0">One cryes ribbes of befe and many a pye."<br /></span>
-</div></div>
-
-<p>And near the butchers naturally were the cooks, who
-flourished in Cooks' Row, along Thames Street.
-Candlewick Street took its name from the chandlers.
-Cornhill marks the site of the ancient corn market.
-Haymarket, where the theatre is so well known, was
-the site of a market for hay, but that is comparatively<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_214" id="Page_214">{214}</a></span>
-modern. The citizens did not go so far out of the
-city to buy and sell hay. Stow says: "Then higher
-in Grasse Street is that parish church of St. Bennet,
-called Grasse Church, of the herb market there kept";
-and though he thinks Fenchurch Street may be derived
-from a fenny or moorish ground, "others be of opinion
-that it took that name of <i>Fnum</i>, that is, hay sold there,
-as Grasse Street took the name of grass, or herbs, there
-sold." Wool was sold near the church of St. Mary
-Woolchurch, which stood on the site of the present
-Mansion House, and in the churchyard was a beam for
-the weighing of wool. The name survives in that of
-St. Mary Woolnoth, with which parish the other was
-united when St. Mary Woolchurch was destroyed by
-the Great Fire. Lombard Street marks the settlement
-of the great Lombardi merchants, the Italian financiers,
-bankers, and pawnbrokers, who found a convenient
-centre for their transactions midway between the two
-great markets, Eastcheap and Cheapside. Sometimes
-the name of the street has been altered in course of
-time, so that it is difficult to determine the original
-meaning. Thus Sermon Lane has nothing to do with
-parsons, but is a corruption of Sheremoniers' Lane, who
-"cut and rounded the plates to be coined and stamped
-into sterling pence," as Stow says. Near this lane was
-the Old Exchange, where money was coined. Later on,
-this coining was done at a place still called the mint,
-in Bermondsey. Stow thought that Lothbury was so
-called because it was a loathsome place, on account of
-the noise made by the founders; but it is really a
-corruption of Lattenbury, the place where these founders
-"cast candlesticks, chafing-dishes, spice mortars, and
-such like copper or laton works." Of course, people
-sold their fowls in the Poultry; fish and milk and bread
-shops were to be found in the streets bearing these names;
-and leather in Leather Lane and, perhaps, Leadenhall
-Market, said to be a corruption of Leatherhall, though<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_215" id="Page_215">{215}</a></span>
-Stow does not give any hint of this. Sopers' Lane
-was the abode of the soapmakers; Smithfield of the
-smiths. Coleman Street derives its name from the man
-who first built and owned it, says Stow; but later
-authorities place there the coalmen or charcoal-burners.
-As was usual in medival towns, the Jews had a district
-for themselves, and resided in Old Jewry and Jewin
-Street.</p>
-
-<p>The favourite haunt of booksellers and publishers,
-Paternoster Row, derives its name, according to Stow,
-"from the stationers or text-writers that dwelled there,
-who wrote and sold all sorts of books then in use, namely,
-A. B. C. or Absies, with the Paternoster, Ave, Creed,
-Graces, etc. There dwelled also turners of beads, and
-they are called Paternoster-makers. At the end of
-Paternoster Row is Ave Mary Lane, so called upon the
-like occasion of text-writers and bead-makers then
-dwelling there." Creed Lane and Amen Corner make
-up the names of these streets where the worshippers in
-Old St. Paul's found their helps to devotion.</p>
-
-<p>Old London was a city of palaces as well as of
-trade. All the great nobles of England had their town
-houses, or inns, as they were called. They had vast
-retinues of armed men, and required no small lodging.
-The Dukes of Exeter and Somerset, the Earl of
-Northumberland, and many others, had their town
-houses, every vestige of which has passed away, though
-their names are preserved by the streets and sites on
-which they stood. The Strand, for example, is full of
-the memories of these old mansions, which began to
-be erected along the river bank when the Wars of the
-Roses had ceased, and greater security was felt by the
-people of England, who then began to perceive that
-it might be possible to live in safety outside the walls
-of the city. Northumberland Avenue tells of the house
-of the Earls of Northumberland, which stood so late
-as 1875; Burleigh Street and Essex Street recall the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_216" id="Page_216">{216}</a></span>
-famous Sir William Cecil, Lord Burleigh, whose son
-was created Earl of Essex. Arundel House, the mansion
-of the Howards, is marked by Arundel Street, Surrey
-Street, Howard Street, Norfolk Street, these being the
-titles borne by scions of this famous family. The
-readers of the chapter on the Royal Palaces need not
-be told of the traditions preserved by the names
-Somerset House and the Savoy. Cecil Street and
-Salisbury Street recall the memory of Salisbury House,
-built by Sir Robert Cecil, Earl of Salisbury, brother of
-the Earl of Essex mentioned above. Then we have
-Bedford Street, with Russell Street, Southampton Street,
-Tavistock Street, around Covent Garden. These
-names unfold historical truths. Covent Garden is an
-abbreviated form of Convent Garden, the garden of the
-monks of Westminster. It was granted to the Russell
-family at the dissolution of monasteries, and the Russells,
-Earls of Bedford, erected a mansion here, which has
-long disappeared, but has left traces behind in the
-streets named after the various titles to which members
-of the Russell family attained. In another part of
-London we find traces of the same family. After
-leaving Covent Garden they migrated to Bloomsbury,
-and there we find Bedford Square, Southampton Street,
-Russell Square, Tavistock Square, and Chenies Street,
-this latter being named after their seat in Buckinghamshire.
-Craven buildings, near Drury Lane, tells of the
-home of Lord Craven, the devoted admirer of the
-"Queen of Hearts," the beautiful Queen of Bohemia.
-Clare House, the mansion of the Earls of Clare, survives
-in Clare Market; and Leicester Square points to the
-residence of the favourite of Queen Elizabeth, and
-Villiers Street and Buckingham Street to that of another
-court favourite, the Duke of Buckingham. The bishops
-also had their town houses, and their sites are recorded
-by such names as Ely Place, Salisbury Square, Bangor
-Court, and Durham Street.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_217" id="Page_217">{217}</a></span></p>
-
-<p>We might wander westward, and trace the progress
-of building and of fashion, and mark the streets that
-bear witness to the memories of great names in English
-history; but that would take us far beyond our limits.
-Going back citywards, we should find many other
-suggestive names of streets—those named after churches;
-those that record the memories of religious houses, such
-as Blackfriars, Austin Friars, Crutched Friars; those
-that mark the course of many streams and brooks that
-now find their way underground to the great river.
-All these names recall glimpses of Old London, and
-must be cherished as priceless memorials of ancient days.</p>
-
-
-<h3>The Heart of the City</h3>
-
-<p>In the centre of London, at the eastern end of
-Cheapside, stand the Royal Exchange, the Mansion
-House, and Bank of England, all of which merit
-attention. The official residence of the Lord Mayor—associated
-with the magnificent hospitality of the city,
-with the memory of many distinguished men who have
-held the office of Chief Magistrate, and with the
-innumerable charitable schemes which have been initiated
-there—was built by Dance, and completed in 1753. It
-is in the Italian style, and resembles a Palladian
-Palace. Its conspicuous front, with Corinthian columns
-supporting a pediment, in the centre of which is a
-group of allegorical sculpture, is well known to all
-frequenters of the city. Formerly it had an open
-court, but this has been roofed over and converted into
-a grand banquetting hall, known as the Egyptian Hall.
-There are other dining rooms, a ball room, and drawing
-room, all superbly decorated, and the Mansion House
-is a worthy home for the Lord Mayor of London.</p>
-
-<p>The Bank of England commenced its career in 1691;
-founded by William Paterson, a Scotsman, and
-incorporated by William III. The greatest monetary<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_218" id="Page_218">{218}</a></span>
-establishment in the world at first managed to contain
-its wealth in a single chest, not much larger than a
-seaman's box. Its first governor was Sir John Houblon,
-who appears largely in the recent interesting volume on
-the records of the Houblon family, and whose house
-and garden were on part of the site of the present
-bank. The halls of the mercers and grocers provided
-a home for the officials in their early dealings. The
-site of the bank was occupied by a church, St.
-Christopher-le-Stocks, three taverns, and several houses.
-These have all been removed to make room for the
-extensions which from time to time were found necessary.
-The back of the Threadneedle Street front is the
-earliest portion—built in 1734, to which Sir Robert
-Taylor added two wings; and then Sir John Soane
-was appointed architect, and constructed the remainder
-of the present buildings in the Corinthian style, after
-the model of the Temple of the Sibyl at Tivoli. There
-have been several subsequent additions, including the
-heightening of the Cornhill front by an attic in 1850.
-There have been many exciting scenes without those
-sombre-looking walls. It has been attacked by rioters.
-Panics have created "runs" on the bank; in 1745 the
-managers just saved themselves by telling their agents
-to demand payment for large sums in sixpences, which
-took a long time to count, the agents then paying in
-the sixpences, which had to be again counted, and
-thus preventing <i>bon-fide</i> holders of notes presenting
-them. At one time the corporation had a very
-insignificant amount of money in the bank, and just
-saved themselves by issuing one pound notes. The
-history of forgeries on the bank would make an
-interesting chapter, and the story of its defence in the
-riots of 1780, when old inkstands were used as bullets by
-the gallant defenders, fills a page of old-world romance.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img src="images/image_041.jpg" width="600" height="354" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><p class='center'><span class="smcap">The Royal Exchange.</span></p>
-
-<p class='center'><i>Engraved by Hollar, 1644.</i></p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p>But interesting as these buildings are, their stories
-pale before that of the Royal Exchange. The present<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_219" id="Page_219">{219}</a></span>
-building was finished in 1844, and opened by her late
-Majesty Queen Victoria with a splendid state and civic
-function. Its architecture is something after the style
-of the Pantheon at Rome. Why the architects of that
-and earlier periods always chose Italian models for
-their structures is one of the mysteries of human error;
-but, as we have seen, all these three main buildings in
-the heart of the city are copied from Italian structures.
-William Tite was the architect, and he achieved no
-mean success. The great size of the portico, the vastness
-of the columns, the frieze and sculptured tympanum,
-and striking figures, all combine to make it an imposing
-building. Upon the pedestal of the figure of
-"Commerce" is the inscription: "The earth is the
-Lord's, and the fulness thereof." The interior has been
-enriched by a series of mural paintings, representing
-scenes from the municipal life of London, the work of
-eminent artists.</p>
-
-<p>This exchange is the third which has stood upon
-this site. The first was built by Sir Thomas Gresham,
-one of the famous family of merchants to whom
-London owes many benefits. It was a "goodly Burse,"
-of Flemish design, having been built by a Flemish
-architect and Flemish workmen, and closely resembled
-the great Burse of Antwerp. The illustration, taken
-from an old engraving by Hollar, 1644, shows the
-building with its large court, with an arcade, a corridor
-or "pawn" of stalls above, and, in the high-pitched
-roof, chambers with dormer windows. Above the roofs
-a high bell-tower is seen, from which, at twelve o'clock
-at noon and at six in the evening, a bell sounded forth
-that proclaimed the call to 'Change. The merchants
-are shown walking or sitting on the benches transacting
-their business. Each nationality or trade had its own
-"walk." Thus there were the "Scotch walk," "Hanbro',"
-"Irish," "East country," "Swedish," "Norway,"
-"American," "Jamaica," "Spanish," "Portugal,"<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_220" id="Page_220">{220}</a></span>
-"French," "Greek," and "Dutch and Jewellers'" walks.
-When Queen Elizabeth came to open the Exchange, the
-tradesmen began to use the hundred shops in the
-corridor, and "milliners or haberdashers sold mouse-traps,
-bird-cages, shoeing-horns, Jews' trumps, etc.;
-armourers, that sold both old and new armour;
-apothecaries, booksellers, goldsmiths, and glass-sellers."
-The Queen declared that this beautiful building should
-be no longer called the Burse, but gave it the name
-"The Royal Exchange." In the illustration some
-naughty boys have trespassed upon the seclusion of
-the busy merchants, and the beadle is endeavouring to
-drive them out of the quadrangle.</p>
-
-<p>This fine building was destroyed by the Great Fire,
-when all the statues fell down save that of the founder,
-Sir Thomas Gresham. His trustees, now known as the
-Gresham Committee, set to work to rebuild it, and
-employed Edward German as their architect, though
-Wren gave advice concerning the project. As usual,
-the citizens were not very long in accomplishing their task,
-and three years after the fire the second Exchange was
-opened, and resembled in plan its predecessor. Many
-views of it appear in the Crace collection in the British
-Museum. In 1838 it was entirely destroyed by fire. In
-the clock-tower there was a set of chimes, and the
-last tune they played, appropriately, was, "There's nae
-luck about the house." As we have seen, in a few years
-the present Royal Exchange arose, which we trust will
-be more fortunate than its predecessors, and never fall
-a victim to the flames.</p>
-
-<hr class="tb" />
-
-<p>There is much else that we should like to see in
-Old London, and record in these Memorials. We should
-like to visit the old fairs, especially Bartholomew Fair,
-Smithfield, either in the days of the monks or with
-my Lady Castlemaine, who came in her coach, and
-mightily enjoyed a puppet show; and the wild beasts,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_221" id="Page_221">{221}</a></span>
-dwarfs, operas, tight-rope dancing, sarabands, dogs
-dancing the Morrice, hare beating a tabor, a tiger
-pulling the feathers from live fowls, the humours of
-Punchinello, and drolls of every degree. Pages might
-be written of the celebrities of the fair, of the puppet
-shows, where you could see such incomparable dramas
-as <i>Whittington and his Cat</i>, <i>Dr. Faustus</i>, <i>Friar Bacon</i>,
-<i>Robin Hood and Little John</i>, <i>Mother Shipton</i>, together
-with "the tuneful warbling pig of Italian race." But
-our pageant is passing, and little space remains. We
-should like to visit the old prisons. A friend of the
-writer, Mr. Milliken, has allowed himself to be locked
-in all the ancient gaols which have remained to our
-time, and taken sketches of all the cells wherein famous
-prisoners have been confined; of gates, and bars, and bolts
-and doors, which have once restrained nefarious gaol-birds.
-Terrible places they were, these prisons, wherein
-prisoners were fleeced and robbed by governors and
-turnkeys, and, if they had no money, were kicked and
-buffeted in the most merciless manner. Old Newgate,
-which has just disappeared, has perhaps the most
-interesting history. It began its career as a prison in
-the form of a tower or part of the city gate. Thus
-it continued until the Great Fire, after which it was
-restored by Wren. In our illustration of the old
-gatehouse, it will be seen that it had a windmill at
-the top. This was an early attempt at ventilation, in
-order to overcome the dread malady called "gaol
-distemper," which destroyed many prisoners. Many
-notable names appear on the list of those who suffered
-here, including several literary victims, whose writings
-caused them grievous sufferings. The prison so lately
-destroyed was designed by George Dance in 1770.
-A recent work on architecture describes it as almost
-perfect of its kind. Before it was completed it was
-attacked by the Gordon rioters, who released the
-prisoners and set it on fire. It was repaired and finished<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_222" id="Page_222">{222}</a></span>
-in 1782. Outwardly so imposing, inwardly it was, for
-a long period, one of the worst prisons in London, full
-of vice and villainy, unchecked, unreformed; while
-outside frequently gathered tumultuous crowds to see
-the condemned prisoners hanged. We might have
-visited also the debtors' prisons with Mr. Pickwick and
-other notables, if our minds were not surfeited with
-prison fare; and even followed the hangman's cart
-to Tyburn, to see the last of some notorious criminals.
-Where the Ludgate Railway Station now stands was
-the famous Fleet prison, which had peculiar privileges,
-the Liberty of the Fleet allowing prisoners to go on
-bail and lodge in the neighbourhood of the prison.
-The district extended from the entrance to St. Paul's
-churchyard, Old Bailey, Ludgate Hill, to the Thames.
-Everyone has heard of the Fleet marriages that took
-place in this curious neighbourhood. On the other side
-of New Bridge Street there was a wild district called
-Alsatia, extending from Fleet Street to the Thames,
-wherein, until 1697, cheats and scoundrels found a safe
-sanctuary, and could not be disturbed.</p>
-
-<p>Again, we should like to visit the old public gardens,
-Vauxhall and Ranelagh, in company with Horace
-Walpole, or with Miss Burney's <i>Evelina</i> or Fielding's
-<i>Amelia</i>, and note "the extreme beauty and elegance of
-the place, with its 1,000 lamps"; "and happy is it for
-me," the young lady remarks, "since to give an adequate
-idea of it would exceed my power of description."</p>
-
-<p>But the pageant must at length pass on, and we
-must wake from the dreams of the past to find ourselves
-in our ever growing, ever changing, modern London.
-It is sufficient for us to reflect sometimes on the past
-life of the great city, to see again the scenes which
-took place in the streets and lanes we know so well,
-to form some ideas of the characters and manners of
-our forefathers, and to gather together some memorials
-of the greatest and most important city in the world.</p>
-</div>
-<hr class="chap" />
-
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_223" id="Page_223">{223}</a></span></p>
-
-<h2><a name="INDEX" id="INDEX">INDEX</a></h2>
-
-<p class='center'>[Transcriber's Note: Links to volume i are external links to
-etext 28742 on the Project Gutenberg website. They require an internet connection
-and may not be supported by your device.]</p>
-
-
-<ul class="index"><li class="ifrst">Abbey, Bermondsey, ii., <a href="#Page_46">46</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Abbot of Westminster and monks in Tower prison, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_59">59</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— of Malmesbury, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_159">159</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Actor, Thomas Davies the, ii., <a href="#Page_178">178</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Addison at Wills' Coffee-house, ii., <a href="#Page_178">178</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Albemarle Club, ii., <a href="#Page_110">110</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Monk, Duke of, ii., <a href="#Page_75">75</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Albus, Liber, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_122">122</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Aldermanbury, St. Mary, ii., <a href="#Page_31">31</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Aldersgate, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_21">21</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Aldgate, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_24">24</a>; ii., <a href="#Page_39">39</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Aldwych, ii., <a href="#Page_208">208</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Alfred Club, ii., <a href="#Page_107">107</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— the Great, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_13">13</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_19">19</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_111">111</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">All Hallows Barking ii., <a href="#Page_204">204</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Staining, Mark Lane, ii., <a href="#Page_205">205</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— the More, Church of, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_230">230</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Alpine Club, ii., <a href="#Page_110">110</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Alsatia, ii., <a href="#Page_36">36</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Anecdote of Charles II. and the Chaplains' dinner, ii., <a href="#Page_62">62</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">"Angel Inn," Wych Street, ii., <a href="#Page_131">131</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Anglo-Saxon houses, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_114">114</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Anlaf the Dane, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_10">10</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Anthropological Institute, ii., <a href="#Page_163">163</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Society, ii., <a href="#Page_162">162</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Antiquaries, Society of, ii., <a href="#Page_150">150</a>, <a href="#Page_153">153</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Apothecaries' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_200">200</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Apprentices of London, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_123">123</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— dress of, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_124">124</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— flogging of, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_124">124</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Archological Association, British, ii., <a href="#Page_163">163</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Institute, ii., <a href="#Page_164">164</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Archbishop of Canterbury, William de Corbeil, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_68">68</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Archdeacon Hale, reforms of, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_103">103</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Archery, ii., <a href="#Page_43">43</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Architect, George Dance, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_182">182</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— of Palace of Westminster, ii., <a href="#Page_2">2</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— of Tower, Gundulf, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_32">32</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_33">33</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Architecture, Crusaders' influence on, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_134">134</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx"><i>Armory, London's</i>, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_240">240</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Armourers' and Braziers' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_200">200</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_201">201</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Arms of the City and See of London, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_233">233</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Army and Navy Club, ii., <a href="#Page_102">102</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Arsenal, Tower an, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_56">56</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_60">60</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Arthur's Club, ii., <a href="#Page_101">101</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Artillery Street, ii., <a href="#Page_212">212</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Artists, Blackfriars as abode of, ii., <a href="#Page_49">49</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Artizans' Houses, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_125">125</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Arts, Society of, ii., <a href="#Page_154">154</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Arundel House, ii., <a href="#Page_216">216</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Asiatic Society, Royal, ii., <a href="#Page_158">158</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Associates of the Temple, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_136">136</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Association, British Archological, ii., <a href="#Page_163">163</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— for the Advancement of Science, British, ii., <a href="#Page_158">158</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Associations of Covent Garden, Literary, ii., <a href="#Page_178">178</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— of Pall Mall, Literary, ii., <a href="#Page_179">179</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— of St. James' Street, Literary, ii., <a href="#Page_180">180</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— of the Temple, Literary, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_146">146</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Athenum Club, ii., <a href="#Page_105">105</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_224" id="Page_224">{224}</a></span>Augustine Friars, ii., <a href="#Page_36">36</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">August Society of the Wanderers Club, ii., <a href="#Page_101">101</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Aulus Plautius, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_6">6</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Austin Friars, ii., <a href="#Page_27">27</a>, <a href="#Page_217">217</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Authors' Club, ii., <a href="#Page_110">110</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Authors of the Temple, ii., <a href="#Page_174">174</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Ave Mary Lane, ii., <a href="#Page_215">215</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Avenue, Northumberland, ii., <a href="#Page_215">215</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">"Axe" Inn, Aldermanbury, ii., <a href="#Page_131">131</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Axe Yard, Westminster, ii., <a href="#Page_54">54</a></li>
-</ul>
-
-
-<ul class="index"><li class="ifrst">Bacon, Sir Francis, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_101">101</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Bacon's Inn, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_174">174</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Bailey, Old, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_25">25</a>; ii., <a href="#Page_212">212</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Bakers' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_201">201</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Bank of England, ii., <a href="#Page_217">217</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Bankside, ii., <a href="#Page_45">45</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">"Banqueting Hall," Tower, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_35">35</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Banqueting House, Whitehall, ii., <a href="#Page_14">14</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Banquets, City, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_188">188</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Barbers', or Barber Surgeons' Company i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_201">201</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Barbican, ii., <a href="#Page_212">212</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— destroyed, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_53">53</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Barges of City Companies, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_195">195</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Barnard's Inn, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_168">168</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Barry, Sir Charles, ii., <a href="#Page_2">2</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Bars, London, ii., <a href="#Page_52">52</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Bartholomew Fair, ii., <a href="#Page_220">220</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— the Great, St., Smithfield, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_66">66</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Basilica, Roman, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_7">7</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Bath Club, ii., <a href="#Page_110">110</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Roman, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_7">7</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">"Batson's" Coffee-house, ii., <a href="#Page_137">137</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Battle at Crayford, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_14">14</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Baynard Castle, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_30">30</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_122">122</a>; ii., <a href="#Page_213">213</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Bear-baiting, ii., <a href="#Page_44">44</a>, <a href="#Page_47">47</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Bear Garden, ii., <a href="#Page_47">47</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Beauchamp, Monument of Sir John, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_118">118</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Beauvale, Nottinghamshire, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_87">87</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">"Bedford" Coffee-house, ii., <a href="#Page_137">137</a>, <a href="#Page_138">138</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Bedford, Earls of, ii., <a href="#Page_216">216</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">"Bell and Crown" Inn, Holborn, ii., <a href="#Page_125">125</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">"Bell" Inn, Warwick Lane, ii., <a href="#Page_131">131</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Bell Inn, ii., <a href="#Page_114">114</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Bells of Bow, The, ii., <a href="#Page_210">210</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Belmie, Richard de, Bishop of London, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_68">68</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Berkeley House, ii., <a href="#Page_53">53</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Bermondsey Abbey, ii., <a href="#Page_46">46</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Berwick Bridge and Bribery, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_101">101</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Bethnal Green, ii., <a href="#Page_53">53</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Billingsgate, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_8">8</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_126">126</a>; ii., <a href="#Page_21">21</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Bishop of London, Mellitus, first, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_16">16</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Richard de Belmies, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_68">68</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Bishopsgate, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_18">18</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_228">228</a>; ii., <a href="#Page_183">183</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Bishops of London, seals of, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_236">236</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Bishops' houses, ii., <a href="#Page_216">216</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Bishopric of London, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_89">89</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Black death, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_88">88</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Blackfriars, ii., <a href="#Page_47">47</a>, <a href="#Page_217">217</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— abode of artists, ii., <a href="#Page_49">49</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Bridge, ii., <a href="#Page_95">95</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Glovers in, ii., <a href="#Page_49">49</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— playhouse near, ii., <a href="#Page_48">48</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Shakespeare's house in, ii., <a href="#Page_50">50</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Vandyke's studio in, ii., <a href="#Page_49">49</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Blacksmiths' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_201">201</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Blackwell Hall, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_183">183</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Blake, William, poet, painter, ii., <a href="#Page_176">176</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Bloody Gate Tower, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_47">47</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_61">61</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">"Blossoms" Inn, ii., <a href="#Page_131">131</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">"Blue Boar" Inn, ii., <a href="#Page_118">118</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">"Boar's Head" Inn, ii., <a href="#Page_168">168</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">"Bolt-in-Tun" Inn, Fleet Street, ii., <a href="#Page_127">127</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Bolton, William, prior of St. Bartholomew, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_76">76</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Bonfires, ii., <a href="#Page_41">41</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Boodle's Club, ii., <a href="#Page_101">101</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Borough, The, ii., <a href="#Page_166">166</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Boswell, ii., <a href="#Page_176">176</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Bow Bells, ii., <a href="#Page_210">210</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Bowyers' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_201">201</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Braziers' Company, Armourers' and, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_200">200</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_201">201</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Bread Street, ii., <a href="#Page_30">30</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— John Milton born in, ii., <a href="#Page_170">170</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Brewers' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_201">201</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Bribery and Berwick Bridge, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_101">101</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Extraordinary, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_101">101</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Brick building by the Hansa, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_229">229</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Bridewell, ii., <a href="#Page_6">6</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Hospital, ii., <a href="#Page_49">49</a>, <a href="#Page_196">196</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Palace of, ii., <a href="#Page_48">48</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Bridge, Blackfriars, ii., <a href="#Page_95">95</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Chapel, ii., <a href="#Page_88">88</a>, <a href="#Page_90">90</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_225" id="Page_225">{225}</a></span>—— Gate, ii., <a href="#Page_88">88</a>, <a href="#Page_90">90</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Old London, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_6">6</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_10">10</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_125">125</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— of London, ii., <a href="#Page_21">21</a>, <a href="#Page_24">24</a>, <a href="#Page_28">28</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— St. Thomas of the, ii., <a href="#Page_24">24</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Southwark, ii., <a href="#Page_82">82</a>, <a href="#Page_97">97</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Waterloo, ii., <a href="#Page_97">97</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Westminster, ii., <a href="#Page_94">94</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">"Bridge House Estates," ii., <a href="#Page_87">87</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">British Archological Association, ii., <a href="#Page_163">163</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Association for the Advancement of Science, ii., <a href="#Page_158">158</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Broad Street, ii., <a href="#Page_36">36</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Broderers' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_201">201</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Bront, Charlotte and Anne, ii., <a href="#Page_171">171</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Brook, Turnmill, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_149">149</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Brooks's Club, ii., <a href="#Page_101">101</a>, <a href="#Page_103">103</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx"><i>Brooks's, Memorials of</i>, ii., <a href="#Page_103">103</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Brown, Dr. Haig, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_104">104</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Buckingham Palace, ii., <a href="#Page_15">15</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Bucklersbury, ii., <a href="#Page_30">30</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Builder of Tower of London, Gundulf, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_32">32</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_33">33</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Westminster Bridge, Labelye, ii., <a href="#Page_94">94</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Building, Goldsmith, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_146">146</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Lamb, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_147">147</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— operations at the Tower, Henry III., i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_50">50</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Wren's, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_144">144</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Buildings, Craven, ii., <a href="#Page_216">216</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Harcourt, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_146">146</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Johnson's, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_146">146</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Mitre Court, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_147">147</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">"Bull and Mouth" Inn, St. Martin's-le-Grand, ii., <a href="#Page_129">129</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Bull-Baiting, ii., <a href="#Page_46">46</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">"Bull" Inn, ii., <a href="#Page_119">119</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— in Bishopsgate Street, ii., <a href="#Page_121">121</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Burbage, James, ii., <a href="#Page_45">45</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Burleigh Street, ii., <a href="#Page_215">215</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Burlington House, ii., <a href="#Page_53">53</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Butler, Samuel, ii., <a href="#Page_179">179</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Button's Coffee-house, ii., <a href="#Page_99">99</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Byron, Lord, ii., <a href="#Page_180">180</a></li></ul>
-
-
-<ul class="index"><li class="ifrst">Camden's description of St. Paul's Cathedral, ii., <a href="#Page_33">33</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Candlewick Street, ii., <a href="#Page_213">213</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Cannon Street, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_116">116</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Canterbury, William de Corbeil, Archbishop of, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_68">68</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Capital of Kings of Essex, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_12">12</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Cardinal Wolsey, ii., <a href="#Page_13">13</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Wolsey's Palace, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_116">116</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Carlton Club, ii., <a href="#Page_108">108</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Carpenters' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_200">200</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_202">202</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Carthusian house, first, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_87">87</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Order, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_86">86</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Carved woodwork in City Churches, ii., <a href="#Page_207">207</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Cassius, Dion, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_3">3</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Castle, Baynard, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_30">30</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_122">122</a>; ii., <a href="#Page_213">213</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Castles of earth and timber, Early, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_49">49</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Cathedral, St. Paul's, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_16">16</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_24">24</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">"Catherine Wheel" Inn, ii., <a href="#Page_123">123</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Cedd, St., i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_16">16</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Celtic London, i., <a href="#Page_1">1-5</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— site of, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_2">2</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Chair in Fishmongers' Hall, ii., <a href="#Page_92">92</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Chancery, difference between the Inns of Court and, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_161">161</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Holborn and the Inns of Court and, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_149">149</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_177">177</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Inns of, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_167">167</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Lane, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_133">133</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_153">153</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Change, Old, ii., <a href="#Page_32">32</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Chantry Chapel of St. Bartholomew, built by de Walden, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_72">72</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Chapel, Bridge, ii., <a href="#Page_88">88</a>, <a href="#Page_90">90</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Guildhall, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_182">182</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— London Bridge, ii., <a href="#Page_24">24</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— of St. John, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_36">36</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— of St. Peter and Vincula, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_42">42</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_49">49</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_57">57</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Pardon Churchyard and, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_88">88</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Royal, at St. James's Palace, ii., <a href="#Page_12">12</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Savoy, ii., <a href="#Page_4">4</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">"Chapter" Coffee-house, ii., <a href="#Page_137">137</a>, <a href="#Page_139">139</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Charing Cross, the "Rummer" in, ii., <a href="#Page_179">179</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— "Three Tuns" at, ii., <a href="#Page_71">71</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Charles I. a prisoner in St. James's Palace, ii., <a href="#Page_9">9</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— his execution, ii., <a href="#Page_10">10</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Charles II. and the Chaplains' dinner, anecdote of, ii., <a href="#Page_62">62</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Evelyn's description of Restoration of, ii., <a href="#Page_55">55</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Charles the Martyr, ii., <a href="#Page_10">10</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Charnel-house, St. Bartholomew, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_78">78</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Charter of William I., i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_22">22</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Charterhouse, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_86">86</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_226" id="Page_226">{226}</a></span>—— alterations in sixteenth century, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_97">97</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— ejection of schoolmaster, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_103">103</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— fifteenth century plan of, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_94">94</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Hospital, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_98">98</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— John Houghton, Prior of, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_91">91</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Monastery, destruction of, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_93">93</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Palace, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_94">94</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Refectory, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_94">94</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— reforms of Archdeacon Hale, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_103">103</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— School, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_102">102</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— —— moved to Godalming, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_104">104</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Chaucer, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_124">124</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— marriage of, ii., <a href="#Page_4">4</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Cheapside, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_126">126</a>; ii., <a href="#Page_29">29</a>, <a href="#Page_30">30</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— St. Mary-le-Bow, ii., <a href="#Page_210">210</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">"Cheshire Cheese," ii., <a href="#Page_173">173</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Cheshire Cheese Club, ii., <a href="#Page_99">99</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Christchurch, ii., <a href="#Page_39">39</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Christ Church, Spitalfields, ii., <a href="#Page_207">207</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Christ's Hospital, ii., <a href="#Page_35">35</a>, <a href="#Page_194">194</a>, <a href="#Page_196">196</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— —— pictures at, ii., <a href="#Page_200">200</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— —— removed to Horsham, ii., <a href="#Page_203">203</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— —— Samuel Pepys and, ii., <a href="#Page_198">198</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx"><i>Chronicle of the Grey Friars of London</i>, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_109">109</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Church, All Hallows the More, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_230">230</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— consecrated by Heraclius, Temple, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_133">133</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— desecration of Temple, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_145">145</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— effigies in Temple, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_136">136</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Life of the City, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_127">127</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Organ, Temple, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_145">145</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— St. Andrew in Holborn, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_164">164</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— St. Andrew in the Wardrobe, ii., <a href="#Page_50">50</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— St. Bartholomew the Great, former neglected condition of, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_66">66</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— St. Bride, ii., <a href="#Page_6">6</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— St. Buttolph, ii., <a href="#Page_38">38</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— St. Helen, ii., <a href="#Page_184">184</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— St. Leonard's, ii., <a href="#Page_42">42</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— St. Mary le Bow, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_24">24</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— St. Michael-le-Querne, ii., <a href="#Page_32">32</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Churches, carved woodwork in City, ii., <a href="#Page_207">207</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— City, ii., <a href="#Page_203">203</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— destroyed, Wren's, ii., <a href="#Page_206">206</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— in London, number of, ii., <a href="#Page_23">23</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Plays in, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_129">129</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Churchyard and Chapel, Pardon, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_88">88</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Citizens, liveries of, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_192">192</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Middlesex granted to the, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_23">23</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">City and See of London, Arms of the, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_233">233</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— banquets, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_188">188</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Churches, carved woodwork in, ii., <a href="#Page_207">207</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— —— ii., <a href="#Page_203">203</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Church life of the, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_127">127</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Companies, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_191">191</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— —— barges of the, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_195">195</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— —— Charity and Religion of, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_195">195</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— —— Patron Saints of, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_196">196</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— —— promotion of trade by, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_196">196</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Customs of the, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_187">187</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Feasts, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_192">192</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Freedom of the, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_185">185</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Gates of, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_11">11</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Heart of the, ii., <a href="#Page_217">217</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— of palaces, ii., <a href="#Page_215">215</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Civil War troubles, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_102">102</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Clare Market, ii., <a href="#Page_216">216</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Clarendon House, ii., <a href="#Page_53">53</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Clement's Inn, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_175">175</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Clerkenwell, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_129">129</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_140">140</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Clerks' Company, Parish, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_129">129</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Cleveland Row, Theodore Hook in, ii., <a href="#Page_181">181</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Clifford's Inn, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_175">175</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Clipping or "sweating" coin, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_109">109</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Clockmakers' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_202">202</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Cloister Court, ii., <a href="#Page_50">50</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Cloth Fair, Smithfield, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_116">116</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Clothworkers' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_199">199</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Hall, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_222">222</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Club, Albemarle, ii., <a href="#Page_110">110</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Alfred, ii., <a href="#Page_107">107</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Alpine, ii., <a href="#Page_110">110</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Army and Navy, ii., <a href="#Page_102">102</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Arthur's, ii., <a href="#Page_101">101</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Athenum, ii., <a href="#Page_105">105</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— August Society of the Wanderers, ii., <a href="#Page_101">101</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Authors', ii., <a href="#Page_110">110</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Bath, ii., <a href="#Page_110">110</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Boodle's, ii., <a href="#Page_101">101</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Brooks's, ii., <a href="#Page_101">101</a>, <a href="#Page_103">103</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_227" id="Page_227">{227}</a></span>—— Button's Coffee-house, ii., <a href="#Page_99">99</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Carlton, ii., <a href="#Page_108">108</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Cheshire Cheese, ii., <a href="#Page_99">99</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Cock, ii., <a href="#Page_99">99</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Cocoa Tree, ii., <a href="#Page_101">101</a>, <a href="#Page_180">180</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Conservative, ii., <a href="#Page_109">109</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Fox, ii., <a href="#Page_104">104</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Garrick, ii., <a href="#Page_107">107</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Guards', ii., <a href="#Page_101">101</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Hurlingham, ii., <a href="#Page_110">110</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Junior United Service, ii., <a href="#Page_102">102</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Kit Cat, ii., <a href="#Page_177">177</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Literary, ii., <a href="#Page_180">180</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Marlborough, ii., <a href="#Page_110">110</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Marylebone Cricket, ii., <a href="#Page_110">110</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— National, ii., <a href="#Page_109">109</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Oriental, ii., <a href="#Page_106">106</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— "Rag and Famish," ii., <a href="#Page_103">103</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Reform, ii., <a href="#Page_108">108</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— "Sublime Society of Beef Steaks," ii., <a href="#Page_100">100</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— "Thatched House," ii., <a href="#Page_180">180</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Travellers', ii., <a href="#Page_104">104</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Union, ii., <a href="#Page_104">104</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— United Service, ii., <a href="#Page_101">101</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— United University, ii., <a href="#Page_104">104</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— White's, ii., <a href="#Page_101">101</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Clubs of London, ii., <a href="#Page_99">99</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Coach and Coach-Harness Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_202">202</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">"Coal Hole," ii., <a href="#Page_177">177</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Cock Club, ii., <a href="#Page_99">99</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">"Cock" Inn, ii., <a href="#Page_71">71</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Cockpit Theatre, ii., <a href="#Page_58">58</a>, <a href="#Page_59">59</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Cocoa Tree Club, ii., <a href="#Page_101">101</a>, <a href="#Page_180">180</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Coffee, first introduction of, ii., <a href="#Page_135">135</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Coffee-house, Button's, ii., <a href="#Page_99">99</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Coffee-houses, Old London, ii., <a href="#Page_135">135</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— as lecture rooms, ii., <a href="#Page_146">146</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— as public reading-rooms, ii., <a href="#Page_143">143</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Manners and modes in, ii., <a href="#Page_148">148</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Museums at, ii., <a href="#Page_146">146</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Quack medicines sold at, ii., <a href="#Page_144">144</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Sales at, ii., <a href="#Page_146">146</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Coin, clipping or "sweating," i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_109">109</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Coins found in the Thames, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_10">10</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Colchester keep, compared with the keep of the Tower, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_33">33</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Cold Harbour Gate, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_41">41</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Colechurch, Peter of, ii., <a href="#Page_85">85</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Coleman Street, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_18">18</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Colet, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_86">86</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Collections, Zoological, ii., <a href="#Page_63">63</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Colony, Danish, ii., <a href="#Page_208">208</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Commerce, Trade and, ii., <a href="#Page_186">186</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Common Hall, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_186">186</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">"Common Playhouses," ii., <a href="#Page_43">43</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Companies, Barges of City, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_195">195</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Charity and Religion of City, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_195">195</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— City, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_191">191</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Halls of the, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_217">217</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Patron Saints of City, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_196">196</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Promotion of trade by City, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_196">196</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Spoliation of the, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_214">214</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Company, Apothecaries', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_201">201</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Armourers' and Braziers', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_201">201</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Bakers', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_201">201</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Barbers' or Barber Surgeons', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_201">201</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Blacksmiths', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_201">201</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Bowyers', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_201">201</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Brewers', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_201">201</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Broderers', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_201">201</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Carpenters', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_200">200</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_202">202</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Clockmakers', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_202">202</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Clockworkers', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_199">199</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Coach and Coach Harness, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_202">202</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Cooks', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_202">202</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Coopers', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_203">203</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Cordwainers', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_203">203</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Curriers', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_203">203</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Cutlers', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_203">203</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Distillers', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_203">203</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Drapers', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_198">198</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Dyers', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_203">203</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Fanmakers', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_204">204</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Farriers', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_204">204</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Feltmakers', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_204">204</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Fishmongers', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_195">195</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_197">197</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_198">198</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Fletchers', <a href="#Page_201">201</a>, <a href="#Page_204">204</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Founders', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_204">204</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Framework Knitters', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_205">205</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Fruiterers', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_205">205</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Girdlers', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_205">205</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Glass-sellers', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_206">206</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Glaziers', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_206">206</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Glovers', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_206">206</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Goldsmiths', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_195">195</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_197">197</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Gold and Silver Wyre Drawers', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_206">206</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_228" id="Page_228">{228}</a></span>—— Grocers', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_197">197</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Gunmakers', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_206">206</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Haberdashers', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_199">199</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Horners', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_207">207</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Innholders', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_207">207</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Ironmongers', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_199">199</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Joiners', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_207">207</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Leathersellers', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_200">200</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_207">207</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Loriners', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_208">208</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Masons', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_208">208</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Mercers', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_197">197</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Merchant Taylors', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_198">198</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Musicians', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_208">208</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Needlemakers', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_208">208</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Painters' or Painter-stainers', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_208">208</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Parish Clerks', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_129">129</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Pattenmakers', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_209">209</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Pewterers', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_209">209</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Plaisterers', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_209">209</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Playing-card Makers', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_209">209</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Plumbers', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_209">209</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Poulters', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_210">210</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Saddlers', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_200">200</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_210">210</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Salters', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_199">199</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Scriveners', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_210">210</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Shipwrights', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_211">211</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Skinners', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_196">196</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_199">199</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Spectacle-makers', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_211">211</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Stationers', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_212">212</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Tallow Chandlers', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_212">212</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Tin-plate Workers', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_212">212</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Turners' or Wood-potters', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_212">212</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Tylers' and Bricklayers', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_212">212</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Upholders', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_212">212</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Vintners', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_197">197</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_199">199</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Wax Chandlers', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_212">212</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Weavers', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_213">213</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Wheelwrights', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_213">213</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Woolmen's, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_213">213</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">"Concentric" Castle, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_40">40</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Conduit, ii., <a href="#Page_31">31</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">"Conduit, The Little," ii., <a href="#Page_32">32</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Conference, Savoy, ii., <a href="#Page_5">5</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Congreve, ii., <a href="#Page_177">177</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Consecration of the Temple Church by Heraclius, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_133">133</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Conservative Club, ii., <a href="#Page_109">109</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Constable of the Tower, Geoffrey de Mandeville, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_41">41</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— William Puinctel, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_45">45</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Conversion of Jews, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_108">108</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Cooks' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_202">202</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Row, ii., <a href="#Page_213">213</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Coopers' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_203">203</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Corbeil, William de, Archbishop of Canterbury, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_68">68</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Corbis, Peter—Water engineer, ii., <a href="#Page_91">91</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Cordwainers' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_203">203</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Cornhill, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_126">126</a>; ii., <a href="#Page_213">213</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Gray born in, ii., <a href="#Page_171">171</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Corporation, religious services of the, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_183">183</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Corpus Christi Day, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_127">127</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Court and Chancery, difference between the Inns of, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_161">161</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— —— Holborn and the Inns of, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_149">149</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_177">177</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Buildings, Mitre, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_147">147</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Cloister, ii., <a href="#Page_50">50</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Hare, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_145">145</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Northumberland, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_154">154</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— of Requests, ii., <a href="#Page_2">2</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Plays in halls of Inns of, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_143">143</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Tanfield, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_146">146</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Wardrobe, ii., <a href="#Page_50">50</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Covent Garden, ii., <a href="#Page_52">52</a>, <a href="#Page_216">216</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— —— Literary associations of, ii., <a href="#Page_178">178</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Cowley, Abraham, ii., <a href="#Page_171">171</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Cowper, ii., <a href="#Page_174">174</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Craven Buildings, ii., <a href="#Page_216">216</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Crayford, Battle at, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_14">14</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Cripplegate, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_11">11</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_21">21</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— wooden houses, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_115">115</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Croft, Spittle, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_89">89</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Crooked Streets, Narrow and, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_112">112</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Crosby estate at Hanworth-on-Thames, ii., <a href="#Page_186">186</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Hall, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_123">123</a>; ii., <a href="#Page_37">37</a>, <a href="#Page_182">182</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Place, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_115">115</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_122">122</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Richard, Duke of Gloucester, at, ii., <a href="#Page_190">190</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Sir John, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_122">122</a>; ii., <a href="#Page_88">88</a>, <a href="#Page_185">185</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Thomas More at, ii., <a href="#Page_190">190</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Cross, Demolition of St. Paul's, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_120">120</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Eleanor, ii., <a href="#Page_31">31</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Crossbows, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_56">56</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">"Cross Keys" in Bishopsgate Street, ii., <a href="#Page_120">120</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Cross, Paul's, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_119">119</a>; ii., <a href="#Page_34">34</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">"Crown" Coffee-house, ii., <a href="#Page_138">138</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Inn, Holborn, ii., <a href="#Page_126">126</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">"Crowned or Cross Keys" Inn, ii., <a href="#Page_117">117</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">"Crug-baskets," ii., <a href="#Page_200">200</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_229" id="Page_229">{229}</a></span>Crusaders, their influence on architecture, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_134">134</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Crutched Friars, ii., <a href="#Page_217">217</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Crypt of St. Ann's Chapel, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_139">139</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Crypts, Guildhall, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_180">180</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Cursitors' Inn, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_174">174</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Custom House, ii., <a href="#Page_21">21</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Customs of the City, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_187">187</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Cutlers' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_203">203</a></li></ul>
-
-
-<ul class="index"><li class="ifrst">Dance, George, Architect, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_182">182</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Dane, Anlaf the, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_10">10</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Danes destroyed London, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_13">13</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— massacre of the, ii., <a href="#Page_208">208</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Danish colony, ii., <a href="#Page_208">208</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— invasion, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_19">19</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Davenant, ii., <a href="#Page_69">69</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Davies, Thomas, the actor, ii., <a href="#Page_178">178</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Davy's Inn, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_155">155</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_165">165</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_172">172</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Death, Black, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_88">88</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Dekker, ii., <a href="#Page_168">168</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Demolition of Paul's Cross, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_120">120</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Description of Restoration of Charles II., Evelyn's, ii., <a href="#Page_55">55</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Desecration of Temple Church, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_145">145</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Destruction of Charterhouse monastery, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_93">93</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— of Monuments, ii., <a href="#Page_36">36</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— of Wren's churches, ii., <a href="#Page_206">206</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">"Devil" Inn, ii., <a href="#Page_173">173</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Devonshire House, ii., <a href="#Page_53">53</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Dickens' days in Hungerford Stairs, ii., <a href="#Page_179">179</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Difference between Inns of Court and Inns of Chancery, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_161">161</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">"Dine with Duke Humphrey, to," i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_117">117</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Dinner, anecdote of Charles II. and the Chaplains', ii., <a href="#Page_62">62</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Dion Cassius, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_3">3</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Disabilities of Jews, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_107">107</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Distillers' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_203">203</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx"><i>Diurnal</i>, Rugge's, ii., <a href="#Page_56">56</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Doctors, Heroic, ii., <a href="#Page_74">74</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">"Dog" Inn, ii., <a href="#Page_70">70</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">"Dolphin" Inn, ii., <a href="#Page_123">123</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Dominicans' monastery in Shoe Lane, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_150">150</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Dorset Gardens Theatre, ii., <a href="#Page_68">68</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Thomas Sackville, first Earl of, ii., <a href="#Page_171">171</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Dowgate, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_8">8</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Downing Street, ii., <a href="#Page_54">54</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Drapers' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_198">198</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Drayton, Michael, ii., <a href="#Page_171">171</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Dress of apprentices, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_124">124</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Drury Lane Theatre, ii., <a href="#Page_68">68</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Dryden, ii., <a href="#Page_178">178</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">"Duke Humphrey, to dine with," i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_117">117</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Duke of Albemarle, Monk, ii., <a href="#Page_75">75</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— of Gloucester, at Crosby Hall, Richard, ii., <a href="#Page_190">190</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Duke's House Theatre, ii., <a href="#Page_67">67</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Place, ii., <a href="#Page_40">40</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Dyers' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_203">203</a></li></ul>
-
-
-<ul class="index"><li class="ifrst">Earl of Warwick, Inn of, in Warwick Lane, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_123">123</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Earls of Bedford, ii., <a href="#Page_216">216</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Early castles of earth and timber, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_49">49</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Times, London in, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_1">1-26</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Earth and timber, early castles of, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_49">49</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Eastcheap, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_126">126</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— and Westcheap, markets of, ii., <a href="#Page_213">213</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">East Smithfield, Edmund Spenser born in, ii., <a href="#Page_171">171</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Effigies in Temple Church, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_136">136</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Ejection of Charterhouse Schoolmaster, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_103">103</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Eleanor Cross, ii., <a href="#Page_31">31</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Elizabeth, Industries encouraged by, ii., <a href="#Page_49">49</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Elizabethan London, ii., <a href="#Page_21">21</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">England, Bank of, ii., <a href="#Page_217">217</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Enlargement of the Tower by Richard I., i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_44">44</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Erkenwald, Bishop of London, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_17">17</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Ermin Street, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_7">7</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Escape from the Tower of Flambard, Bishop of Durham, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_39">39</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Essex, capital of the Kings of, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_12">12</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Street, ii., <a href="#Page_215">215</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">"Estates, Bridge House," ii., <a href="#Page_87">87</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Ethnological Society, ii., <a href="#Page_161">161</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Etiquette in Hyde Park, ii., <a href="#Page_67">67</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Etymology of London, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_2">2</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Eve, Midsummer, ii., <a href="#Page_40">40</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Evelyn, John, ii., <a href="#Page_54">54</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Evelyn's description of Restoration of Charles II., ii., <a href="#Page_55">55</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Exchange, Old, ii., <a href="#Page_214">214</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_230" id="Page_230">{230}</a></span>—— Royal, ii., <a href="#Page_28">28</a>, <a href="#Page_217">217</a>, <a href="#Page_218">218</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Execution of Charles I., ii., <a href="#Page_10">10</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Expulsion of Jews, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_110">110</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Extraordinary bribery, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_101">101</a></li></ul>
-
-
-<ul class="index"><li class="ifrst">Fair, Bartholomew, ii., <a href="#Page_220">220</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Smithfield Cloth, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_116">116</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Fanmakers' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_204">204</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Farriers' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_204">204</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Father Gerard, prisoner in Tower, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_63">63</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Feasts, City, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_192">192</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Feltmakers' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_204">204</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Fenchurch Street, ii., <a href="#Page_214">214</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Ferries, Thames, ii., <a href="#Page_23">23</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Fields, Goodman's, ii., <a href="#Page_38">38</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Finsbury, ii., <a href="#Page_43">43</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Fire, Great, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_179">179</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_215">215</a>; ii., <a href="#Page_73">73</a>, <a href="#Page_76">76</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— London rebuilt after Great, ii., <a href="#Page_80">80</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Fires at the Temple, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_144">144</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Frequency of, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_125">125</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">First Bishop of London, Mellitus, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_16">16</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Carthusian house, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_87">87</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Introduction of Coffee, ii., <a href="#Page_135">135</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Prisoners sent to the Tower, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_50">50</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Fishmongers' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_195">195</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_197">197</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_198">198</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Hall, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_218">218</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— —— chairs in, ii., <a href="#Page_92">92</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">FitzStephen's <i>Description of London</i>, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_38">38</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Flambard, Bishop of Durham, escape from the Tower of, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_39">39</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Fleet, Liberty of the, ii., <a href="#Page_222">222</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Prison, ii., <a href="#Page_222">222</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— River, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_149">149</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Fletcher, ii., <a href="#Page_168">168</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Fletchers' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_201">201</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_204">204</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Flogging of apprentices, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_124">124</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Floods at Whitehall, ii., <a href="#Page_57">57</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Florence, Friscobaldi of, ii., <a href="#Page_187">187</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Fludyer Street, ii., <a href="#Page_54">54</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Folkmote, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_23">23</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Ford across Thames, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_4">4</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">"Foreigners," i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_123">123</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Foreigners in London, ii., <a href="#Page_26">26</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Former neglected condition of St. Bartholomew's Church, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_66">66</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Founder of Lincoln's Inn, Henry de Lacy, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_150">150</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Founders' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_204">204</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">"Four Swans" Inn in Bishopsgate Street, ii., <a href="#Page_121">121</a>, <a href="#Page_122">122</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Fox Club, ii., <a href="#Page_104">104</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Framework Knitters' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_205">205</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">France, Petty, ii., <a href="#Page_28">28</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Franklin, Benjamin, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_83">83</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Freedom of London, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_152">152</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— of the City, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_185">185</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Frequency of fires, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_125">125</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Friars, Augustine, ii., <a href="#Page_36">36</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Austin, ii., <a href="#Page_27">27</a>, <a href="#Page_217">217</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Black, ii., <a href="#Page_217">217</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Crutched, ii., <a href="#Page_217">217</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx"><i>Friars of London, Chronicle of the Grey</i>, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_109">109</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Friscobaldi of Florence, ii., <a href="#Page_187">187</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Fruiterers' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_205">205</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Furnival's Inn, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_167">167</a></li></ul>
-
-
-<ul class="index"><li class="ifrst">Galleried Inns, ii., <a href="#Page_116">116</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Game of Mall, ii., <a href="#Page_64">64</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">"Game of Swans," i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_204">204</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Garden, Bear, ii., <a href="#Page_47">47</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Covent, ii., <a href="#Page_52">52</a>, <a href="#Page_216">216</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Old Spring, ii., <a href="#Page_58">58</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Stairs, Paris, ii., <a href="#Page_44">44</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Temple, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_142">142</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">"Garraway's" Coffee-house, ii., <a href="#Page_137">137</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Garrick Club, ii., <a href="#Page_107">107</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Gate, Bridge, ii., <a href="#Page_88">88</a>, <a href="#Page_90">90</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Traitors', ii., <a href="#Page_24">24</a>, <a href="#Page_90">90</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Gates of City, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_11">11</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Gaunt at Savoy Palace, John of, ii., <a href="#Page_3">3</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Geographical Society, Royal, ii., <a href="#Page_160">160</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Geological Society, ii., <a href="#Page_155">155</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">"George" Inn, ii., <a href="#Page_117">117</a>, <a href="#Page_166">166</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Gerard prisoner in Tower, Father, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_63">63</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">"Gerard's Hall" Inn, ii., <a href="#Page_132">132</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">German Hanse Merchants, ii., <a href="#Page_187">187</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Gibbons's Statue of James II., Grinling, ii., <a href="#Page_60">60</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx"><i>Gilda Teutonicorum</i>, ii., <a href="#Page_27">27</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Girdlers' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_205">205</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Glasshouse Yard, ii., <a href="#Page_49">49</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Glass-making, ii., <a href="#Page_49">49</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Glass-sellers' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_206">206</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Glaziers' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_206">206</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Globe Theatre, ii., <a href="#Page_45">45</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Glovers' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_206">206</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_231" id="Page_231">{231}</a></span>Glovers in Blackfriars, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_206">206</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Godalming, Charterhouse School moved to, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_104">104</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Gog and Magog, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_180">180</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Gold and Silver Wyre Drawers' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_206">206</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Goldsmith Building, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_146">146</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Oliver, ii., <a href="#Page_172">172</a>, <a href="#Page_176">176</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Goldsmiths' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_195">195</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_197">197</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Hall, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_219">219</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Row, ii., <a href="#Page_32">32</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Goodman's Fields, ii., <a href="#Page_38">38</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Gordon Riots, ii., <a href="#Page_221">221</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">"Governance of London, the," i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_15">15</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">"Grand Tour, the," ii., <a href="#Page_66">66</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Grasse Church, ii., <a href="#Page_214">214</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Gray born in Cornhill, ii., <a href="#Page_171">171</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Gray's Inn, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_161">161</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_162">162</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Great Fire, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_121">121</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_179">179</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_215">215</a>; ii., <a href="#Page_73">73</a>, <a href="#Page_76">76</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— —— a blessing, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_115">115</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— —— London rebuilt after, ii., <a href="#Page_80">80</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Plague, ii., <a href="#Page_73">73</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Tower Hill, scaffold on, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_64">64</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">"Grecian," ii., <a href="#Page_200">200</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Coffee-house, ii., <a href="#Page_137">137</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">"Green Dragon" Inn, in Bishopsgate Street, ii., <a href="#Page_121">121</a>, <a href="#Page_122">122</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Greenwich, Palace at, ii., <a href="#Page_25">25</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Gresham, residence of Sir Thomas, ii., <a href="#Page_37">37</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Sir Thomas, ii., <a href="#Page_219">219</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx"><i>Grey Friars of London, Chronicle of the</i>, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_109">109</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Grey Friars' monastery, ii., <a href="#Page_195">195</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Reginald de, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_161">161</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Griffin, prisoner in Tower keep, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_55">55</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Grocers' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_197">197</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Hall, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_179">179</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_218">218</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Guards' Club, ii., <a href="#Page_101">101</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Guild, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_22">22</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Guilda Aula Teutonicorum, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_227">227</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Guildhall, The, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_178">178</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_190">190</a>; ii., <a href="#Page_31">31</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Chapel, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_182">182</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Crypts, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_180">180</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Historic scenes in the, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_187">187</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Library, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_183">183</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— "Little Ease" at the, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_186">186</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— of the Steel-yard, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_230">230</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Portraits at the, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_184">184</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Windows in the, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_189">189</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx"><i>Gull's Horne-Book, The</i>, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_118">118</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Gundulf, architect of Tower, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_32">32</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_33">33</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Gunmakers' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_206">206</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Gunpowder manufactured in Tower, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_60">60</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Guy Fawkes, prison of, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_35">35</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Gwynne's house, Nell, ii., <a href="#Page_102">102</a></li></ul>
-
-
-<ul class="index"><li class="ifrst">Haberdashers' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_199">199</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Hall, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_221">221</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Hale, Reforms of Archdeacon, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_103">103</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Half-timbered houses, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_113">113</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Hall, Crosby, a prison for Royalists, ii., <a href="#Page_191">191</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Blackwell, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_183">183</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Chair in Fishmongers', ii., <a href="#Page_92">92</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Clothworkers', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_222">222</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Common, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_186">186</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Crosby, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_123">123</a>; ii., <a href="#Page_37">37</a>, <a href="#Page_182">182</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Fishmongers', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_218">218</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Goldsmiths', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_219">219</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Grocers', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_179">179</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_218">218</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Haberdashers', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_221">221</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Inner Temple, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_139">139</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Ironmongers', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_222">222</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Mercers', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_218">218</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Merchant Taylors', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_179">179</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_219">219</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Middle Temple, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_143">143</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Richard, Duke of Gloucester, at Crosby, ii., <a href="#Page_190">190</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Salters', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_221">221</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Skinners', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_221">221</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Thomas More at Crosby, ii., <a href="#Page_190">190</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Vintners', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_222">222</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Westminster, ii., <a href="#Page_2">2</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Halls of Inns of Court, Plays in, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_143">143</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— of the Companies, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_217">217</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Hamburg, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_226">226</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Hanged, Three hundred Jews, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_109">109</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Hansa, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_225">225</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— brick building by the, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_229">229</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Hanseatic League, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_224">224</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Hanse Merchants, German, ii., <a href="#Page_27">27</a>, <a href="#Page_187">187</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Hanworth-on-Thames, Crosby Estate at, ii., <a href="#Page_186">186</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Harcourt Buildings, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_146">146</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Hare Court, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_145">145</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Haymarket, ii., <a href="#Page_53">53</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">"Head, The Monk's," ii., <a href="#Page_58">58</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Heads on Bridge Gate, ii., <a href="#Page_90">90</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_232" id="Page_232">{232}</a></span>Heart of the City, ii., <a href="#Page_217">217</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Henry III.'s building operations at the Tower, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_50">50</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— VIII.'s buildings, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_61">61</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Henslowe, Philip, ii., <a href="#Page_44">44</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Heraclius, Temple Church consecrated by, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_133">133</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Herber, the, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_122">122</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Herfleets' Inn, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_174">174</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Hermitage in the Tower, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_55">55</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Heroic Doctors, ii., <a href="#Page_74">74</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Herrick, ii., <a href="#Page_169">169</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Hill, St. Andrew's, ii., <a href="#Page_50">50</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Hinton, Somersetshire, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_87">87</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Historic Scenes in the Guildhall, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_187">187</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">"Hobson's Choice," ii., <a href="#Page_121">121</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Holborn and the Inns of Court and Chancery, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_149">149-177</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Church of St. Andrew in, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_164">164</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Inns, ii., <a href="#Page_124">124</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Old Temple, in, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_153">153</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Origin of name, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_149">149</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Viaduct, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_149">149</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Holeburn, Manor of, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_150">150</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Holy Trinity, Priory of, ii., <a href="#Page_39">39</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Holywell, ii., <a href="#Page_42">42</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Hook, Theodore, in Cleveland Row, ii., <a href="#Page_181">181</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx"><i>Horne-Book, The Gull's</i>, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_118">118</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Horners' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_207">207</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Horse Races at Smithfield, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_132">132</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Horsham, Christ's Hospital removed to, ii., <a href="#Page_203">203</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Hospital, Bridewell, ii., <a href="#Page_49">49</a>, <a href="#Page_196">196</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Charterhouse, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_98">98</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Christ's, ii., <a href="#Page_35">35</a>, <a href="#Page_194">194</a>, <a href="#Page_196">196</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— —— removed to Horsham, ii., <a href="#Page_203">203</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— for lepers, ii., <a href="#Page_7">7</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Pictures at Christ's, ii., <a href="#Page_200">200</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— St. Bartholomew's, ii., <a href="#Page_35">35</a>, <a href="#Page_196">196</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— St. Thomas's, ii., <a href="#Page_196">196</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Samuel Pepys and Christ's, ii., <a href="#Page_198">198</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Houghton, John, Prior of Charterhouse in 1531, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_91">91</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Houndsditch, ii., <a href="#Page_39">39</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">House, Arundel, ii., <a href="#Page_216">216</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Banqueting, Whitehall, ii., <a href="#Page_14">14</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Berkeley, ii., <a href="#Page_53">53</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Burlington, ii., <a href="#Page_53">53</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Clarendon, ii., <a href="#Page_53">53</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Custom, ii., <a href="#Page_21">21</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Devonshire, ii., <a href="#Page_53">53</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">"House Estates, Bridge," ii., <a href="#Page_87">87</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— First Carthusian, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_87">87</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Howard, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_98">98</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— in Blackfriars, Shakespeare's, ii., <a href="#Page_50">50</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Marlborough, ii., <a href="#Page_12">12</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Marquis of Winchester's, ii., <a href="#Page_36">36</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Nell Gwynne's, ii., <a href="#Page_102">102</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— "Nonesuch," ii., <a href="#Page_24">24</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Salisbury, ii., <a href="#Page_216">216</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Sessions, without Newgate, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_164">164</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Southampton, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_154">154</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— twelfth century, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_112">112</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Winchester, ii., <a href="#Page_46">46</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— York, ii., <a href="#Page_13">13</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Houses, Anglo-Saxon, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_114">114</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— and shops on old London Bridge, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_112">112</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Artizans', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_125">125</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Bishops', ii., <a href="#Page_216">216</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— half-timbered, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_113">113</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— merchants', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_123">123</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— near Temple, wooden, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_116">116</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— of nobility, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_122">122</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— wooden, Cripplegate, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_115">115</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">"Humphrey, to dine with Duke," i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_117">117</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Hungerford Stairs, Dickens' days in, ii., <a href="#Page_179">179</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Hunting, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_132">132</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Hurlingham Club, ii., <a href="#Page_110">110</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Hurriers, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_199">199</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Hyde Park, ii., <a href="#Page_66">66</a>, <a href="#Page_67">67</a></li></ul>
-
-
-<ul class="index"><li class="ifrst">Imprisoned in Tower, Jews, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_58">58</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Imprisonment of Knights Templars, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_59">59</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Industries encouraged by Queen Elizabeth, ii., <a href="#Page_49">49</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Influence on Architecture, Crusaders', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_134">134</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Inner Temple, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_141">141</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— and Middle Temples, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_161">161</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Temple Hall, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_139">139</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Inn, Henry de Lacy, founder of Lincoln's, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_150">150</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Bacon's i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_174">174</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Barnard's, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_168">168</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Clement's, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_175">175</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Clifford's, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_175">175</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Cursitors', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_174">174</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Davy's, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_155">155</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_165">165</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_172">172</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_233" id="Page_233">{233}</a></span>—— Earl of Warwick, in Warwick Lane, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_123">123</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Furnival's, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_167">167</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Gray's, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_161">161</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_162">162</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Herfleet's, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_174">174</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Kidderminster, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_174">174</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Lincoln's, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_155">155</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_157">157</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_160">160</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_166">166</a>; ii., <a href="#Page_42">42</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Lyon's, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_167">167</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_176">176</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— New, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_173">173</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Scrope's, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_176">176</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Six Clerks, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_174">174</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Staple, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_116">116</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_153">153</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_160">160</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_170">170</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_171">171</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Innholders' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_207">207</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Inns of Chancery, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_167">167</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— of Court and Inns of Chancery, difference between, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_161">161</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— —— Plays in halls of, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_143">143</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— —— and Chancery, Holborn and the, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_149">149</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_177">177</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— at Southwark, ii., <a href="#Page_114">114</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— and Taverns, old, ii., <a href="#Page_46">46</a>, <a href="#Page_70">70</a>, <a href="#Page_113">113</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Angel, Wych Street, ii., <a href="#Page_131">131</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Axe, Aldermanbury, ii., <a href="#Page_131">131</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Bell, Warwick Lane, ii., <a href="#Page_131">131</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Bell and Crown, Holborn, ii., <a href="#Page_125">125</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Belle, ii., <a href="#Page_114">114</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Blossoms, ii., <a href="#Page_131">131</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Blue Boar, ii., <a href="#Page_118">118</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Boars' Head, ii., <a href="#Page_168">168</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Bolt-in-Tun, ii., <a href="#Page_127">127</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Bull, ii., <a href="#Page_119">119</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— —— Bishopsgate Street, ii., <a href="#Page_121">121</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— —— and Mouth, ii., <a href="#Page_129">129</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Catherine Wheel, ii., <a href="#Page_123">123</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— "Cheshire Cheese," ii., <a href="#Page_173">173</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Cross Keys, Bishopsgate Street, ii., <a href="#Page_120">120</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Crown, Holborn, ii., <a href="#Page_126">126</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Crowned or Cross Keys, ii., <a href="#Page_117">117</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— "Devil," ii., <a href="#Page_173">173</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Dolphin, ii., <a href="#Page_123">123</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Four Swans, Bishopsgate Street, ii., <a href="#Page_121">121</a>, <a href="#Page_122">122</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Galleried, ii., <a href="#Page_116">116</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— George, ii., <a href="#Page_117">117</a>, <a href="#Page_166">166</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Gerard's Hall, ii., <a href="#Page_132">132</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Green Dragon, Bishopsgate Street, ii., <a href="#Page_121">121</a>, <a href="#Page_122">122</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Holborn, ii., <a href="#Page_124">124</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— in King Street, Westminster, ii., <a href="#Page_70">70</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— King's Head, ii., <a href="#Page_116">116</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— "Mitre," ii., <a href="#Page_173">173</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Nag's Head, Whitcomb Street, ii., <a href="#Page_132">132</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Oxford Arms, ii., <a href="#Page_130">130</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Queen's Head, ii., <a href="#Page_116">116</a>, <a href="#Page_117">117</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— St. George's, ii., <a href="#Page_117">117</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Saracen's Head, ii., <a href="#Page_119">119</a>, <a href="#Page_123">123</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Spread Eagle, ii., <a href="#Page_120">120</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Swan with Two Necks, ii., <a href="#Page_133">133</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Tabard, ii., <a href="#Page_114">114</a>, <a href="#Page_121">121</a>, <a href="#Page_166">166</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Three Nuns, ii., <a href="#Page_118">118</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— "Two Swan," ii., <a href="#Page_122">122</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— White Hart, ii., <a href="#Page_115">115</a>, <a href="#Page_123">123</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— White Horse, ii., <a href="#Page_127">127</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Insanitary condition of Old London, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_115">115</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Installation of the Lord Mayor, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_186">186</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Institute, Archological, ii., <a href="#Page_164">164</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Anthropological, ii., <a href="#Page_163">163</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Introduction of Coffee, first, ii., <a href="#Page_135">135</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Invasion, Danish, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_19">19</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Ireland Yard, ii., <a href="#Page_50">50</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Ironmongers' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_199">199</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Hall, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_222">222</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Islington, ii., <a href="#Page_53">53</a></li></ul>
-
-
-<ul class="index"><li class="ifrst">Jacobite Coffee-houses, ii., <a href="#Page_140">140</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">James I. and the Temple, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_144">144</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— II., Grinling Gibbons's statue of, ii., <a href="#Page_60">60</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Jeffreys, Judge, and Temple Church organ, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_145">145</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Jewry Lane, Poor, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_108">108</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Leicester, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_108">108</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Old, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_108">108</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Street, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_108">108</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Jews, ii., <a href="#Page_215">215</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Conversion of, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_108">108</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— disabilities of, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_107">107</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— expulsion of, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_110">110</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Imprisoned in Tower, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_58">58</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— in London, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_106">106</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Money-lending by, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_107">107</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— plundered, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_122">122</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— prejudice against, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_109">109</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— three hundred hanged, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_109">109</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Johnson, Dr., in Fleet Street, ii., <a href="#Page_172">172</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Johnson's Buildings, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_146">146</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Joiners' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_207">207</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Jomsborg, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_225">225</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Jones, Inigo, ii., <a href="#Page_14">14</a>, <a href="#Page_52">52</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Jonson, Ben, ii., <a href="#Page_168">168</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Jousts at Smithfield, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_130">130</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_234" id="Page_234">{234}</a></span>Junior United Service Club, ii., <a href="#Page_102">102</a></li></ul>
-
-
-<ul class="index"><li class="ifrst">Keep of Tower of London compared with Colchester keep, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_33">33</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Kensington Palace, ii., <a href="#Page_16">16</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Kidderminster Inn, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_174">174</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Killigrew, ii., <a href="#Page_69">69</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">King Street, Westminster, Inns in, ii., <a href="#Page_70">70</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">King's Bench Walk, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_144">144</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">"King's Head" Inn, ii., <a href="#Page_116">116</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">"King's House," i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_61">61</a>; ii., <a href="#Page_67">67</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Kings of Essex, capital of, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_12">12</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Kit Cat Club, ii., <a href="#Page_177">177</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Knights Hospitallers, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_140">140</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Templars, imprisonment, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_59">59</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Kontors of the League, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_226">226</a></li></ul>
-
-
-<ul class="index"><li class="ifrst">La Belle Sauvage Yard, ii., <a href="#Page_127">127</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Labelye, builder of Westminster Bridge, ii., <a href="#Page_94">94</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Lacy, Henry de, founder of Lincoln's Inn, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_150">150</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Lady Chapel and printing shop, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_82">82</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_83">83</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Lamb Building, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_147">147</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Charles, ii., <a href="#Page_175">175</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Lambeth Palace, ii., <a href="#Page_17">17</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Lane, Ave Mary, ii., <a href="#Page_215">215</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Chancery, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_133">133</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_153">153</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Inn of Earl of Warwick in Warwick, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_123">123</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Mincing, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_8">8</a>; ii., <a href="#Page_27">27</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— "Poor Jewry," i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_108">108</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Sermon, ii., <a href="#Page_214">214</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Shoe, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_150">150</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Sopars', ii., <a href="#Page_30">30</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Lawyers in the Temple, settlement of, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_140">140</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Leadenhall, ii., <a href="#Page_27">27</a>, <a href="#Page_40">40</a>, <a href="#Page_214">214</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">League, The Hanseatic, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_224">224</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Kontors of the, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_226">226</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Learned Societies of London, ii., <a href="#Page_150">150</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Leather-sellers' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_200">200</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_207">207</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Lecture rooms, Coffee-houses as, ii., <a href="#Page_146">146</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Leicester Jewry, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_108">108</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Square, ii., <a href="#Page_216">216</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Lepers, Hospital for, ii., <a href="#Page_7">7</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx"><i>Liber Albus</i>, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_122">122</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Liberty of the Fleet, ii., <a href="#Page_222">222</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Library, Guildhall, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_183">183</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Life of the City, Church, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_127">127</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Street, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_127">127</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Lincoln's Inn, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_155">155</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_157">157</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_160">160</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_161">161</a>; ii., <a href="#Page_42">42</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Henry de Lacy, founder of, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_150">150</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Literary associations of Covent Garden, ii., <a href="#Page_178">178</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— —— Pall Mall, ii., <a href="#Page_179">179</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— —— St. James' Street, ii., <a href="#Page_180">180</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— —— The Temple, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_146">146</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Club, ii., <a href="#Page_180">180</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Shrines of Old London, ii., <a href="#Page_166">166</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Literature, Royal Society of, ii., <a href="#Page_156">156</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">"Little Conduit, The," ii., <a href="#Page_32">32</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">"Little Ease," i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_34">34</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_58">58</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— —— at the Guildhall, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_186">186</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Liveries of Citizens, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_192">192</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Lives of the People, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_121">121</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">"Lloyd's" Coffee-house, ii., <a href="#Page_139">139</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Locke, John, ii., <a href="#Page_171">171</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">"Lock, Rock," ii., <a href="#Page_88">88</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Lombard Street, ii., <a href="#Page_27">27</a>, <a href="#Page_214">214</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— —— Pope born in, ii., <a href="#Page_171">171</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Lombardy merchants, ii., <a href="#Page_26">26</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx"><i>London's Armory</i>, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_240">240</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Lord Mayor, Installation of the, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_186">186</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Loriners' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_208">208</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Lothbury, ii., <a href="#Page_214">214</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Lovel, Sir Thomas, ii., <a href="#Page_42">42</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Lbeck, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_226">226</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Ludgate, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_11">11</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_24">24</a>; ii., <a href="#Page_213">213</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Lydgate's <i>London's Lickpenny</i>, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_125">125</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx"><i>Lynn, dun</i>, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_2">2</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Lyon's Inn, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_167">167</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_176">176</a></li></ul>
-
-
-<ul class="index"><li class="ifrst">Macaulay's picture of London, ii., <a href="#Page_55">55</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Mall, the game of, ii., <a href="#Page_63">63</a>, <a href="#Page_64">64</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Malmesbury, Abbot of, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_159">159</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Mandeville, Geoffrey de, Constable of the Tower, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_41">41</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Manners and modes in Coffee-houses, ii., <a href="#Page_148">148</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Manny, Sir Walter de, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_89">89</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Manor of Holeburn, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_150">150</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Mansion, Sir Paul Pindar's, ii., <a href="#Page_123">123</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Manufacture of <i>gunpowder</i> in Tower, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_60">60</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Mariners, St. Clement patron saint of, ii., <a href="#Page_209">209</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Market, Clare, ii., <a href="#Page_216">216</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_235" id="Page_235">{235}</a></span>Markets of Eastcheap and Westcheap, ii., <a href="#Page_213">213</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Marlborough Club, ii., <a href="#Page_110">110</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— House, ii., <a href="#Page_12">12</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Marriage of Chaucer, ii., <a href="#Page_4">4</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Marylebone Cricket Club, ii., <a href="#Page_110">110</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Masons' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_208">208</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Masques, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_144">144</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Massacre of the Danes, ii., <a href="#Page_208">208</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Massinger, Philip, ii., <a href="#Page_168">168</a>, <a href="#Page_169">169</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Mathematical School, Royal, ii., <a href="#Page_198">198</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Mayor, Installation of the Lord, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_186">186</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">May-poles, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_132">132</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Meat Market, Shambles or, ii., <a href="#Page_35">35</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Medival London, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_106">106</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Mellitus, first Bishop of London, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_16">16</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx"><i>Memorials of Brooks's</i>, ii., <a href="#Page_103">103</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Menagerie at the Tower, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_52">52</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Mercers' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_197">197</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Hall, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_218">218</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Merchant Taylors' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_198">198</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— —— Hall, <a href="#Page_1">1</a>., <a href="#Page_179">179</a>, <a href="#Page_219">219</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— —— School, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_94">94</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_104">104</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Merchants, German Hanse, ii., <a href="#Page_187">187</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— of Lombardy, ii., <a href="#Page_26">26</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Hanse, ii., <a href="#Page_27">27</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Merchants' houses, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_123">123</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Mermaid Tavern, ii., <a href="#Page_30">30</a>, <a href="#Page_168">168</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Middle Temple, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_141">141</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_165">165</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— —— Hall, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_143">143</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Temples, Inner and, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_161">161</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Middlesex granted to the citizens, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_23">23</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Midsummer Eve, ii., <a href="#Page_40">40</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Millianers, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_199">199</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Milton, John, born in Bread Street, ii., <a href="#Page_170">170</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Mincing Lane, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_8">8</a>; ii., <a href="#Page_27">27</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Minories, ii., <a href="#Page_38">38</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Mint, Tower, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_64">64</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Mitre Court Buildings, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_147">147</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">"Mitre" Inn, ii., <a href="#Page_173">173</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Mob, Tower surprised by, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_53">53</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Modern London founded after the Restoration, ii., <a href="#Page_53">53</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Monastery, destruction of Charterhouse, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_93">93</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Grey Friars, ii., <a href="#Page_195">195</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— in Shoe Lane, Dominicans', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_150">150</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Money-lending by Jews, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_107">107</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Monk, Duke of Albemarle, ii., <a href="#Page_75">75</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">"Monk's Head, The," ii., <a href="#Page_58">58</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Monks tortured and executed, i.,<a href="#Page_92">92</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Montagu, Lady Mary Wortley, ii., <a href="#Page_177">177</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Monument of Sir John Beauchamp, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_118">118</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Monuments in the Temple, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_139">139</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— destruction of, ii., <a href="#Page_36">36</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Moorgate, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_25">25</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Moorfields, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_122">122</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">More, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_86">86</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Thomas, at Crosby Hall, ii., <a href="#Page_190">190</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Mosaic pavements, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_12">12</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Museums at Coffee-houses, ii., <a href="#Page_146">146</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Musicians' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_208">208</a></li></ul>
-
-
-<ul class="index"><li class="ifrst">"Nag's Head" Inn, Whitcomb Street, ii., <a href="#Page_132">132</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Name Holborn, Origin of the, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_149">149</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Names of Streets, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_123">123</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Narrow and crooked streets, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_112">112</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— and unsavoury streets, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_125">125</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— escape of Richard III., ii., <a href="#Page_189">189</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">National Club, ii., <a href="#Page_109">109</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Needlemakers' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_208">208</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Newgate, ii., <a href="#Page_26">26</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Sessions House without, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_164">164</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Newington, playhouse at, ii., <a href="#Page_44">44</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">New Inn, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_173">173</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Temple, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_163">163</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Nobility, houses of, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_122">122</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">"Nonesuch House," ii., <a href="#Page_24">24</a>, <a href="#Page_91">91</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Norfolk, Duke of, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_96">96</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Norman London, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_21">21</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_26">26</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Well, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_62">62</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">North, Sir Edward, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_95">95</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Northburgh, Michael de, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_89">89</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Northumberland Avenue, ii., <a href="#Page_215">215</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Court, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_154">154</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Norway, St. Olaf patron saint of, ii., <a href="#Page_209">209</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Number of Churches in London, ii., <a href="#Page_23">23</a></li></ul>
-
-
-<ul class="index"><li class="ifrst">Office, Rolls, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_153">153</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Old Bailey, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_25">25</a>; ii., <a href="#Page_212">212</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Bridges, ii., <a href="#Page_82">82</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Change, ii., <a href="#Page_32">32</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Exchange, ii., <a href="#Page_214">214</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_236" id="Page_236">{236}</a></span>—— Inns, ii., <a href="#Page_46">46</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— —— in Westminster, ii., <a href="#Page_70">70</a>, <a href="#Page_71">71</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Jewry, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_108">108</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— London Bridge, houses and shops on, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_112">112</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Prisons, ii., <a href="#Page_221">221</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— St. Paul's, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_116">116</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Spring Garden, ii., <a href="#Page_58">58</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Temple in Holborn, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_153">153</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Theatres, ii., <a href="#Page_167">167</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— time punishments, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_130">130</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Order, Carthusian, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_86">86</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Orderic, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_30">30</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_31">31</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Ordinance of the Staple, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_171">171</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Organ, Temple Church, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_145">145</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Oriental Club, ii., <a href="#Page_106">106</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Origin of the name Holborn, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_149">149</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">"Oxford Arms" Inn, ii., <a href="#Page_130">130</a></li></ul>
-
-
-<ul class="index"><li class="ifrst">Pageant of London, ii., <a href="#Page_193">193</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— of the Streets, ii., <a href="#Page_211">211</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Pageants, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_192">192</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— on the Thames, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_194">194</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Painters' or Painter-stainers' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_208">208</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Palace, Bridewell, ii., <a href="#Page_48">48</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Buckingham, ii., <a href="#Page_15">15</a>, <a href="#Page_16">16</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Cardinal Wolsey's, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_116">116</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Charterhouse, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_94">94</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Greenwich, ii., <a href="#Page_25">25</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Lambeth, ii., <a href="#Page_17">17</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— St. James's, ii., <a href="#Page_7">7</a>, <a href="#Page_61">61</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Savoy, ii., <a href="#Page_3">3</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Westminster, ii., <a href="#Page_1">1</a>, <a href="#Page_2">2</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Whitefriars, ii., <a href="#Page_60">60</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Whitehall, ii., <a href="#Page_9">9</a>, <a href="#Page_11">11</a>, <a href="#Page_13">13</a>, <a href="#Page_56">56</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Palaces, City of, ii., <a href="#Page_215">215</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— of London, ii., <a href="#Page_1">1</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Pall Mall, ii., <a href="#Page_63">63</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— —— Literary Associations of, ii., <a href="#Page_179">179</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Panton Street, ii., <a href="#Page_54">54</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">"Papye," ii., <a href="#Page_37">37</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Pardon Churchyard and Chapel, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_88">88</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Paris Garden Stairs, ii., <a href="#Page_44">44</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Parish Clerks' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_129">129</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Park, Hyde, ii., <a href="#Page_66">66</a>, <a href="#Page_67">67</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— St. James's, ii., <a href="#Page_63">63</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Passage, Subterranean, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_62">62</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Paternoster Row, ii., <a href="#Page_215">215</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Patron Saint of Norway, St. Olaf, ii., <a href="#Page_209">209</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— —— of Mariners, ii., <a href="#Page_209">209</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Saints of City Companies, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_196">196</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Pattenmakers' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_209">209</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Paul's Cathedral, St., i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_16">16</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_24">24</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Cross, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_119">119</a>; ii., <a href="#Page_34">34</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— —— Demolition of, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_120">120</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">"Paul's School," ii., <a href="#Page_34">34</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Paul's Walk, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_117">117</a>; ii., <a href="#Page_33">33</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Pavements, Mosaic, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_12">12</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Penn, Sir William, ii., <a href="#Page_77">77</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Penthouse, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_125">125</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">People, Lives of the, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_121">121</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Pepys, Samuel, ii., <a href="#Page_54">54</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— —— and Christ's Hospital, ii., <a href="#Page_198">198</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— as a dramatic critic, ii., <a href="#Page_70">70</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— as a playgoer, ii., <a href="#Page_67">67</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Pepys's London, ii., <a href="#Page_52">52</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Peter of Colechurch, ii., <a href="#Page_85">85</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Petty France, ii., <a href="#Page_28">28</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Pewterers' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_209">209</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Piccadilly, ii., <a href="#Page_53">53</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Picture of London, Macaulay's, ii., <a href="#Page_55">55</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Pictures at Christ's Hospital, ii., <a href="#Page_200">200</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">"Piggin," ii., <a href="#Page_200">200</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Pike Ponds, ii., <a href="#Page_47">47</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Pillory, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_130">130</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Pindar's mansion, Sir Paul, ii., <a href="#Page_123">123</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Place, Duke's, ii., <a href="#Page_40">40</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Plague, Great, ii., <a href="#Page_73">73</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Plaisterers' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_209">209</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Plan of Charterhouse, fifteenth century, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_94">94</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Plantation, Ulster, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_214">214</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Playhouse at Newington, ii., <a href="#Page_44">44</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— near Blackfriars, ii., <a href="#Page_48">48</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— the Rose, ii., <a href="#Page_45">45</a>, <a href="#Page_47">47</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Swan, ii., <a href="#Page_47">47</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Yard, ii., <a href="#Page_50">50</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">"Playhouses, Common," ii., <a href="#Page_43">43</a>, <a href="#Page_44">44</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Playing-card Makers' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_209">209</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Plays, ii., <a href="#Page_43">43</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— in Churches, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_129">129</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— in Halls of Inns of Court, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_143">143</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Religious, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_129">129</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Plowden, Edmund, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_143">143</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_145">145</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Plumbers' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_209">209</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Plundered Jews, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_122">122</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Poet-painter, William Blake, The, ii., <a href="#Page_176">176</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Pomerium, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_108">108</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Ponds, Pike, ii., <a href="#Page_47">47</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_237" id="Page_237">{237}</a></span>"Poor Jewry Lane," i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_108">108</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Pope born in Lombard Street, ii., <a href="#Page_171">171</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Port of London, ii., <a href="#Page_21">21</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Portraits at the Guildhall, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_184">184</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Portreeve, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_22">22</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_23">23</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Portugal Row, Theatre in, ii., <a href="#Page_68">68</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Pottery, Roman, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_5">5</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Poulters' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_210">210</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Poultry, The, ii., <a href="#Page_30">30</a>, <a href="#Page_214">214</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">"Pound sterling," i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_232">232</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Prejudice against Jews, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_109">109</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Princes murdered in the Tower, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_36">36</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Printing-house, Richardson's, ii., <a href="#Page_172">172</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Printing-shop, Lady Chapel and, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_82">82</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_83">83</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Prior, John Walford, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_72">72</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— of Charterhouse in 1531, John Houghton, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_91">91</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— of St. Bartholomew, William Bolton, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_76">76</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Priory of Holy Trinity, ii., <a href="#Page_39">39</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— of St. Mary Overie, ii., <a href="#Page_86">86</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Prison, Abbot of Westminster and Monks in, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_59">59</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Fleet, ii., <a href="#Page_222">222</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— for Royalists, Crosby a, ii., <a href="#Page_191">191</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— of Guy Fawkes, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_35">35</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— of Ranulph Flambard, Bishop of Durham, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_39">39</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— of Sir Walter Raleigh, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_35">35</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Subterranean, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_62">62</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Prisoner in St. James's Palace, Charles I. a., ii., <a href="#Page_9">9</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Prisoners in Tower, Scotch, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_59">59</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Royal, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_60">60</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— sent to the Tower, First, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_50">50</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Prisons, Old, ii., <a href="#Page_221">221</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Proceedings, <i>quo warranto</i>, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_216">216</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Projecting storeys of houses, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_114">114</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Promotion of Trade by City Companies, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_197">197</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Puinctel, William, Constable of the Tower, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_45">45</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Punishments, Old-time, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_130">130</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— School, ii., <a href="#Page_202">202</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">"Purgatory," St. Bartholomew, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_78">78</a></li></ul>
-
-
-<ul class="index"><li class="ifrst">Quack medicines sold at Coffee-houses, ii., <a href="#Page_144">144</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Queenhithe, ii., <a href="#Page_21">21</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">"Queen's Head" Inn, ii., <a href="#Page_116">116</a>, <a href="#Page_117">117</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Quintain, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_132">132</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx"><i>Quo warranto</i> proceedings, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_216">216</a></li></ul>
-
-
-<ul class="index"><li class="ifrst">Races at Smithfield, Horse, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_132">132</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">"Rag and Famish," ii., <a href="#Page_103">103</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Rahere, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_67">67</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Rahere's vision, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_67">67</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">"Rainbow" in Fleet Street, ii., <a href="#Page_135">135</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Raleigh, Prison of Sir Walter, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_35">35</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Ranelagh, Vauxhall and, ii., <a href="#Page_222">222</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Rawlinson, Daniel, a loyal innkeeper, ii., <a href="#Page_71">71</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Rebuilt after great fire, London, ii., <a href="#Page_80">80</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Refectory, Charterhouse, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_94">94</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Reform Club, ii., <a href="#Page_108">108</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Reforms of Archdeacon Hale, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_103">103</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Relics in the Temple, Treasures and, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_138">138</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Religion, City Companies, their charity and, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_195">195</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Religious plays, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_129">129</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— services of the Corporation, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_183">183</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Renovations of the Tower, Wren's, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_35">35</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Requests, Court of, ii., <a href="#Page_2">2</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Residence of Sir Thomas Gresham, ii., <a href="#Page_37">37</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Restoration of Charles II., Evelyn's description of, ii., <a href="#Page_55">55</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— of St. Bartholomew, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_81">81</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_84">84</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Modern London founded after the, ii., <a href="#Page_53">53</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Rich, Sir Richard, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_78">78</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Richard, Duke of Gloucester, at Crosby Hall, ii., <a href="#Page_190">190</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— I.'s enlargement of the Tower, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_44">44</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— III., Narrow escape of, ii., <a href="#Page_189">189</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Richardson's printing-house, ii., <a href="#Page_172">172</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">"Ridings," i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_124">124</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Riots, London, ii., <a href="#Page_221">221</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">"Rock Lock," ii., <a href="#Page_88">88</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Rolls Office, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_153">153</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Roman basilica, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_7">7</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— bath, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_7">7</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_238" id="Page_238">{238}</a></span>—— London, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_6">6-12</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— —— Bridge, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_10">10</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— pottery, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_5">5</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— remains, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_28">28</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— wall, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_11">11</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Rose playhouse, The, ii., <a href="#Page_45">45</a>, <a href="#Page_47">47</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Row, Cooks', ii., <a href="#Page_213">213</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Goldsmiths', ii., <a href="#Page_32">32</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Paternoster, ii., <a href="#Page_215">215</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Royal Asiatic Society, ii., <a href="#Page_158">158</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Chapel, at St. James's Palace, ii., <a href="#Page_12">12</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Exchange, ii., <a href="#Page_28">28</a>, <a href="#Page_217">217</a>, <a href="#Page_218">218</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Geographical Society, ii., <a href="#Page_160">160</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Institution, ii., <a href="#Page_154">154</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Mathematical School, ii., <a href="#Page_198">198</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Prisoners, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_60">60</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Society, ii., <a href="#Page_72">72</a>, <a href="#Page_150">150</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Society of Literature, ii., <a href="#Page_156">156</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Royalists, Crosby a prison for, ii., <a href="#Page_191">191</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Rugge's <i>Diurnal</i>, ii., <a href="#Page_56">56</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">"Rummer" in Charing Cross, The, ii., <a href="#Page_179">179</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Russell Street, ii., <a href="#Page_178">178</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Rutland Place, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_96">96</a></li></ul>
-
-
-<ul class="index"><li class="ifrst">Sackville, Thomas, first Earl of Dorset, ii., <a href="#Page_171">171</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Saddlers' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_200">200</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_210">210</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">St. Andrew, Holborn, Church of, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_164">164</a>; ii., <a href="#Page_207">207</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— in the Wardrobe, Church of, ii., <a href="#Page_50">50</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Undershaft, ii., <a href="#Page_37">37</a>, <a href="#Page_204">204</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">St. Andrew's Hill, ii., <a href="#Page_50">50</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Holborn, ii., <a href="#Page_207">207</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">St. Ann's Chapel, Crypt of, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_139">139</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">St. Bartholomew the Great, Smithfield, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_66">66</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Restoration of, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_81">81</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_84">84</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">St. Bartholomew's Hospital, ii., <a href="#Page_35">35</a>, <a href="#Page_196">196</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">St. Bnezet, ii., <a href="#Page_85">85</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">St. Bride, Church of, ii., <a href="#Page_6">6</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">St. Bruno, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_86">86</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">St. Buttolph, Church of, ii., <a href="#Page_38">38</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">St. Catherine Cree, ii., <a href="#Page_204">204</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">St. Cedd, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_16">16</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">St. Clement Danes, ii., <a href="#Page_208">208</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">St. Clement, patron saint of mariners, ii., <a href="#Page_209">209</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">St. Dunstan's, Stepney, ii., <a href="#Page_204">204</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">St. Ethelreda's, Ely Place, ii., <a href="#Page_204">204</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">St. George's Inn, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_171">171</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">St. Giles', Cripplegate, ii., <a href="#Page_204">204</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">St. Helen, Church of, ii., <a href="#Page_41">41</a>, <a href="#Page_184">184</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">"St. James's," Addison at the, ii., <a href="#Page_180">180</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Coffee-house, ii., <a href="#Page_137">137</a>, <a href="#Page_141">141</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Palace, ii., <a href="#Page_7">7</a>, <a href="#Page_61">61</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Park, ii., <a href="#Page_63">63</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Square, ii., <a href="#Page_53">53</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Street, Literary associations of, ii., <a href="#Page_180">180</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Swift at the, ii., <a href="#Page_180">180</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">St. John, Chapel of, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_36">36</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">St. Leonard's Church, ii., <a href="#Page_42">42</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">St. Margaret's, Lothbury, Screen in, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_230">230</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">St. Martin's le Grand, ii., <a href="#Page_36">36</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">St. Mary, Aldermanbury, ii., <a href="#Page_31">31</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Axe, ii., <a href="#Page_37">37</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">St. Mary-le-Bow, Church of, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_24">24</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Cheapside, ii., <a href="#Page_210">210</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">St. Mary Overie, ii., <a href="#Page_46">46</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— —— Priory, ii., <a href="#Page_86">86</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Woolchurch, ii., <a href="#Page_214">214</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">St. Michael-le-Querne, Church of, ii., <a href="#Page_32">32</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">St. Olaf, patron saint of Norway, ii., <a href="#Page_209">209</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">St. Olave's, Hart Street, ii., <a href="#Page_205">205</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">St. Paul's Cathedral, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_16">16</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_24">24</a>; ii., <a href="#Page_23">23</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Camden's description of, ii., <a href="#Page_33">33</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Coffee-house, ii., <a href="#Page_139">139</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Old, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_116">116</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">St. Peter ad Vincula, Chapel of, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_42">42</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_49">49</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_57">57</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">St. Sepulchre's, near Newgate, ii., <a href="#Page_205">205</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">St. Thomas of the Bridge, ii., <a href="#Page_24">24</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">St. Thomas's Hospital, ii., <a href="#Page_196">196</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Saints of City Companies, Patron, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_196">196</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">"Saladin Tithe," i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_134">134</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Sales at Coffee-houses, ii., <a href="#Page_146">146</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Salisbury House, ii., <a href="#Page_216">216</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Salters' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_199">199</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Hall, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_221">221</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">"Saracen's Head" Inn, ii., <a href="#Page_119">119</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— —— on Snow Hill, ii., <a href="#Page_123">123</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Savoy Chapel, ii., <a href="#Page_4">4</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Conference, ii., <a href="#Page_5">5</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Palace of the, ii., <a href="#Page_3">3</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— —— pillaged by Wat Tyler, ii., <a href="#Page_4">4</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Saxon London, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_12">12-21</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_239" id="Page_239">{239}</a></span>Scaffold on Great Tower Hill, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_64">64</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Scenes in the Guildhall, Historic, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_187">187</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">School, Charterhouse, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_102">102</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— —— moved to Godalming, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_104">104</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Merchant Taylors', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_94">94</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_104">104</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Paul's, ii., <a href="#Page_34">34</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Punishments, ii., <a href="#Page_202">202</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Royal Mathematical, ii., <a href="#Page_198">198</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Schoolmaster, Ejection of Charterhouse, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_103">103</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Science, British Association for the Advancement of, ii., <a href="#Page_158">158</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Scotch prisoners in Tower, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_59">59</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Screen in St. Margaret's, Lothbury, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_230">230</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Scriveners' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_210">210</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Scrope's Inn, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_176">176</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Sculpture in the Temple, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_135">135</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Seal of Bishops of London, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_236">236</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Sebert, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_16">16</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">See of London, Arms of the City and, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_233">233</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Sergeants-at-Law, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_142">142</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Sermon Lane, ii., <a href="#Page_214">214</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Sessions House, without Newgate, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_164">164</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Settlement at Westminster, Roman, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_11">11</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— of lawyers in the Temple, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_140">140</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Shakespeare, ii., <a href="#Page_45">45</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— in London, ii., <a href="#Page_26">26</a>, <a href="#Page_37">37</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Shakespeare's house in Blackfriars, ii., <a href="#Page_50">50</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Shambles, or meat market, ii., <a href="#Page_35">35</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Shipwrights' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_211">211</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Shirley, James, ii., <a href="#Page_171">171</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Shoe Lane, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_150">150</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Shops on Old London Bridge, houses and, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_112">112</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Shoreditch, ii., <a href="#Page_42">42</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Site of Celtic London, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_2">2</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx"><i>Six Clerks Inn</i>, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_174">174</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Skating on the Thames, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_131">131</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Skinners' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_196">196</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_199">199</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Hall, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_221">221</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Smithfield, Cloth Fair, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_116">116</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— horse races at, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_132">132</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— jousts at, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_130">130</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Societies of London, Learned, ii., <a href="#Page_150">150</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Society, Anthropological, ii., <a href="#Page_162">162</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Ethnological, ii., <a href="#Page_161">161</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Geological, ii., <a href="#Page_155">155</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— of Antiquaries, ii., <a href="#Page_150">150</a>, <a href="#Page_153">153</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— of Arts, Royal, ii., <a href="#Page_154">154</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— of Literature, Royal, ii., <a href="#Page_156">156</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Royal, ii., <a href="#Page_150">150</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Royal Asiatic, ii., <a href="#Page_156">156</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Royal Geographical, ii., <a href="#Page_160">160</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Royal Statistical, ii., <a href="#Page_160">160</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Sopars' Lane, ii., <a href="#Page_30">30</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Southampton House, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_154">154</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Southwark Bridge, ii., <a href="#Page_82">82</a>, <a href="#Page_97">97</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Inns at, ii., <a href="#Page_114">114</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Spectacle-makers' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_211">211</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Spencer, Sir John, ii., <a href="#Page_190">190</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Spenser, Edmund, born in East Smithfield, ii., <a href="#Page_171">171</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Spittle Croft, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_89">89</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Spoliation of the Companies, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_214">214</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Sports of London youths, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_131">131</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">"Spread Eagle" Inn, ii., <a href="#Page_120">120</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Square, St. James's, ii., <a href="#Page_53">53</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Leicester, ii., <a href="#Page_216">216</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Stairs, Paris Garden, ii., <a href="#Page_44">44</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Thames, ii., <a href="#Page_22">22</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Standard, The, ii., <a href="#Page_31">31</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Staple Inn, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_116">116</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_153">153</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_160">160</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_170">170</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_171">171</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Ordinance of the, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_171">171</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Stationers' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_212">212</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Statistical Society, Royal, ii., <a href="#Page_160">160</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Statue of James II., Grinling Gibbons's, ii., <a href="#Page_60">60</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Steel-yard, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_227">227</a>; ii., <a href="#Page_21">21</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Guildhall of the, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_230">230</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Stepney, ii., <a href="#Page_53">53</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">"Sterling, a pound," i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_232">232</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Stone, London, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_7">7</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_28">28</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_126">126</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Stow, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_8">8</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_11">11</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_13">13</a>; ii., <a href="#Page_41">41</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Stow's <i>Survey</i>, ii., <a href="#Page_25">25</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Strand, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_126">126</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Street, Artillery, ii., <a href="#Page_212">212</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Bread, ii., <a href="#Page_30">30</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Broad, ii., <a href="#Page_36">36</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Burleigh, ii., <a href="#Page_215">215</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Candlewick, ii., <a href="#Page_213">213</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Cannon, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_116">116</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Coleman, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_18">18</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Downing, ii., <a href="#Page_54">54</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Ermin, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_7">7</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Essex, ii., <a href="#Page_215">215</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Fenchurch, ii., <a href="#Page_214">214</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Fludyer, ii., <a href="#Page_54">54</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_240" id="Page_240">{240}</a></span>—— Jewry, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_108">108</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Lombard, ii., <a href="#Page_27">27</a>, <a href="#Page_214">214</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Panton, ii., <a href="#Page_54">54</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Tooley, ii., <a href="#Page_209">209</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Watling, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_6">6</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Streets, Life of the, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_127">127</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Names of, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_123">123</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Narrow and crooked, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_112">112</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Narrow and unsavoury, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_125">125</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Pageant of the, ii., <a href="#Page_211">211</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">"Sublime Society of Beef Steaks," ii., <a href="#Page_100">100</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Subterranean passage, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_62">62</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— prison, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_62">62</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">"Sun" Inn, ii., <a href="#Page_70">70</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Surprised by mob, Tower, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_53">53</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Surrender of London to William I., i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_30">30</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx"><i>Survey</i>, Stow's, ii., <a href="#Page_25">25</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Sutton, Thomas, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_98">98</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">"Swans, Game of," i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_204">204</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Swan-marking, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_204">204</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Swan playhouse, ii., <a href="#Page_47">47</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">"Swan with Two Necks," Lad Lane, ii., <a href="#Page_133">133</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">"Sweating" coin, Clipping or, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_109">109</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Swift at the "St. James's," ii., <a href="#Page_180">180</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Sword in the City Arms, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_235">235</a></li></ul>
-
-
-<ul class="index"><li class="ifrst">Tabard Inn, ii., <a href="#Page_46">46</a>, <a href="#Page_114">114</a>, <a href="#Page_166">166</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">"Tabard" Inn in Gracechurch Street, ii., <a href="#Page_120">120</a>, <a href="#Page_121">121</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Tacitus, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_6">6</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_7">7</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Tallow Chandlers' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_212">212</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Tanfield Court, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_146">146</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Tavern, Mermaid, ii., <a href="#Page_30">30</a>, <a href="#Page_168">168</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Taverns and Inns, ii., <a href="#Page_70">70</a>, <a href="#Page_113">113</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Templars, the, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_139">139</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">"Temple, Associates of the," i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_136">136</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Temple, Authors of the, ii., <a href="#Page_174">174</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Church consecrated by Heraclius, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_133">133</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— —— desecration of, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_145">145</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— —— effigies in, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_136">136</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— —— organ, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_145">145</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Fires at the, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_144">144</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Garden, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_142">142</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Hall, Inner, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_139">139</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— —— Middle, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_143">143</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— in Holborn, Old, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_153">153</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Inner, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_141">141</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— James I. and the, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_144">144</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Literary Associations of the, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_146">146</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Middle, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_141">141</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_165">165</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Monuments in the, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_139">139</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— New, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_163">163</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Settlement of lawyers in the, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_140">140</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Sculpture in the, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_135">135</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— The, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_133">133-148</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Treasures and relics in the, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_138">138</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Wooden houses near, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_116">116</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Temples, Inner and Middle, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_161">161</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx"><i>Teutonicorum, Gilda</i>, ii., <a href="#Page_27">27</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Thames, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_4">4</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Coins found in the, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_10">10</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Ferries, ii., <a href="#Page_23">23</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Ford across, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_4">4</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Pageants on the, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_195">195</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Skating on the, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_131">131</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— "Stairs," ii., <a href="#Page_22">22</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Thames' watermen, ii., <a href="#Page_22">22</a>, <a href="#Page_167">167</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">"Thatched House" Club, ii., <a href="#Page_180">180</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Theatre, Cockpit, ii., <a href="#Page_59">59</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Dorset Gardens, ii., <a href="#Page_68">68</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Drury Lane, ii., <a href="#Page_68">68</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Duke's House, ii., <a href="#Page_67">67</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Globe, ii., <a href="#Page_45">45</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— in Portugal Row, ii., <a href="#Page_68">68</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— King's House, ii., <a href="#Page_67">67</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Theatres, Old, ii., <a href="#Page_44">44</a>, <a href="#Page_167">167</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Thorney, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_12">12</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Three hundred Jews hanged, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_109">109</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">"Three Nuns" Inn, ii., <a href="#Page_118">118</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Tuns" at Charing Cross, ii., <a href="#Page_71">71</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Tilt Yard, ii., <a href="#Page_58">58</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Timber, Early Castles of earth and, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_49">49</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Tin-plate Workers' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_212">212</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">"Tithe, Saladin," i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_134">134</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Tooley Street, ii., <a href="#Page_209">209</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">"Tour, The Grand," ii., <a href="#Page_66">66</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Tower, Gundulf, architect of, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_32">32</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_33">33</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— of London, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_27">27-65</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— keep compared with Colchester keep, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_33">33</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Wren's renovations of, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_35">35</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Town of London, a walled, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_110">110</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Trade and commerce, ii., <a href="#Page_186">186</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— City Companies; their promotion of, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_196">196</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">"Traitors' Gate," i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_51">51</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_65">65</a>; ii., <a href="#Page_24">24</a>, <a href="#Page_90">90</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_241" id="Page_241">{241}</a></span>Travellers' Club, ii., <a href="#Page_104">104</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Treasures and relics in the Temple, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_138">138</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Troubles, Civil War, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_102">102</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Turners' or "Wood-potters'" Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_212">212</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Turnmill Brook, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_149">149</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Twelfth century house, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_112">112</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">"Two Swan" Inn yard, ii., <a href="#Page_122">122</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Tyler, Wat, Savoy Palace pillaged by, ii., <a href="#Page_4">4</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Wat, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_235">235</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Tylers' and Bricklayers' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_212">212</a></li></ul>
-
-
-<ul class="index"><li class="ifrst">Ulster Plantation, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_214">214</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Undershaft, St. Andrew, ii., <a href="#Page_37">37</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Union Club, ii., <a href="#Page_104">104</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">United Service Club, ii., <a href="#Page_101">101</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— University Club, ii., <a href="#Page_104">104</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Unsavoury Streets, Narrow and, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_125">125</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Upholders' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_212">212</a></li></ul>
-
-
-<ul class="index"><li class="ifrst">Vandyke's Studio in Blackfriars, ii., <a href="#Page_49">49</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Vauxhall, ii., <a href="#Page_58">58</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— and Ranelagh, ii., <a href="#Page_222">222</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Viaduct, Holborn, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_149">149</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Vikings, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_225">225</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Vintners' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_197">197</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_199">199</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Hall, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_222">222</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Vintry, ii., <a href="#Page_28">28</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Vision of Rahere, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_67">67</a></li></ul>
-
-<ul class="index"><li class="ifrst">Wadlow, Simon, ii., <a href="#Page_56">56</a></li>
-
-
-<li class="indx">Walbrook, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_5">5</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Walden, Roger de, builds chantry chapel of St. Bartholomew, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_72">72</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Walford, Prior John, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_72">72</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Walk, King's Bench, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_144">144</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Paul's, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_117">117</a>; ii., <a href="#Page_33">33</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Walled Town, London a, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_110">110</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Walls, London, ii., <a href="#Page_212">212</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— of London, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_122">122</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Roman, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_11">11</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Walton, Izaac, ii., <a href="#Page_171">171</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Walworth, Sir William, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_235">235</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Wardrobe, Church of St. Andrew in the, ii., <a href="#Page_50">50</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Court, ii., <a href="#Page_50">50</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Warwick Lane, Inn of Earl of Warwick in, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_123">123</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Wash House Court, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_94">94</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Water-engineer, Peter Corbis, ii., <a href="#Page_91">91</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Waterloo Bridge, ii., <a href="#Page_97">97</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Watermen, Thames', ii., <a href="#Page_22">22</a>, <a href="#Page_167">167</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Watling Street, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_6">6</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Wax Chandlers' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_212">212</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Weavers' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_213">213</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Westcheap, ii., <a href="#Page_30">30</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— markets of Eastcheap and, ii., <a href="#Page_213">213</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Westminster, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_126">126</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— abbot and monks of, in prison, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_59">59</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Axe Yard, ii., <a href="#Page_54">54</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Bridge, ii., <a href="#Page_94">94</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Hall, ii., <a href="#Page_2">2</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Old inns in, ii., <a href="#Page_70">70</a>, <a href="#Page_71">71</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Palace of, ii., <a href="#Page_1">1</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Roman settlement at, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_111">111</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Wheelwrights' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_213">213</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">"Wherries," ii., <a href="#Page_22">22</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Whist played at Coffee-houses, ii., <a href="#Page_138">138</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Whitefriars Palace, ii., <a href="#Page_60">60</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Whitehall, ii., <a href="#Page_57">57</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Banqueting House, ii., <a href="#Page_14">14</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Floods at, ii., <a href="#Page_57">57</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Palace of, ii., <a href="#Page_9">9</a>, <a href="#Page_11">11</a>, <a href="#Page_13">13</a>, <a href="#Page_56">56</a>, <a href="#Page_57">57</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">"White Hart" Inn, ii., <a href="#Page_115">115</a>, <a href="#Page_123">123</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">"White Horse" Inn, ii., <a href="#Page_127">127</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">White Tower, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_34">34</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">"White's" Chocolate-house, ii., <a href="#Page_137">137</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Club, ii., <a href="#Page_101">101</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Whittington, Sir Richard, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_178">178</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Wild-fowl in St. James's Park, ii., <a href="#Page_63">63</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">William I., Charter of, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_22">22</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_29">29</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— surrender of London to, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_30">30</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">"Will's" Coffee-house in Russell Street, ii., <a href="#Page_137">137</a>, <a href="#Page_141">141</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Winchester House, ii., <a href="#Page_46">46</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— House of Marquis of, ii., <a href="#Page_36">36</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Windows in the Guildhall, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_189">189</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Witham, Somersetshire, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_87">87</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Wolsey, Cardinal, ii., <a href="#Page_13">13</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Wolsey's Palace, Cardinal, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_116">116</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Wooden houses near Temple, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_116">116</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_242" id="Page_242">{242}</a></span>—— —— at Cripplegate, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_115">115</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Woodwork in City Churches, Carved, ii., <a href="#Page_207">207</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Woolcombers, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_213">213</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Woolmen's Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_213">213</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Wren, Sir Christopher, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_43">43</a>; ii., <a href="#Page_205">205</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Wren's building, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_144">144</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— churches destroyed, ii., <a href="#Page_206">206</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— renovations of the Tower, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_35">35</a></li></ul>
-
-
-<ul class="index"><li class="ifrst">Yard, Glasshouse, ii., <a href="#Page_49">49</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Ireland, ii., <a href="#Page_50">50</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Playhouse, ii., <a href="#Page_50">50</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Tilt, ii., <a href="#Page_58">58</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">—— Westminster, Axe, ii., <a href="#Page_54">54</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">York House, ii., <a href="#Page_13">13</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Youths, Sports of London, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_131">131</a></li></ul>
-
-<ul class="index"><li class="ifrst">Zoological collections, ii., <a href="#Page_63">63</a></li></ul>
-
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img src="images/image_042.jpg" width="125" height="119" alt="" />
-</div>
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-
-<p class='center'>Bemrose & Sons Limited, Printers, Derby and London.</p>
-
-<hr class="full" />
-
-<div class="footnotes"><p class='p3'>FOOTNOTES:</p>
-
-<div class="footnote">
-
-<p><a name="Footnote_1_1" id="Footnote_1_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_1_1"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> Thomas Dekker, the pamphleteer and dramatist, describes the
-Exchange as it was in 1607, when "at every turn a man is put in mind of
-Babel, there is such a confusion of languages"; and as late as 1644 the
-picturesque dresses of the foreign merchants appear in an engraving by
-Hollar.</p></div>
-
-<div class="footnote">
-
-<p><a name="Footnote_2_2" id="Footnote_2_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_2_2"><span class="label">[2]</span></a> Camden speaks of "this so stately building," and in his terse fashion
-conveys the effect of the interior: "The west part, as also the Cross-yle, are
-spacious, high-built, and goodly to be seene by reason of the huge Pillars and
-a right beautiful arched Roof of stone."</p></div>
-
-<div class="footnote">
-
-<p><a name="Footnote_3_3" id="Footnote_3_3"></a><a href="#FNanchor_3_3"><span class="label">[3]</span></a> This is Stow's figure. Camden gives the measurement as 534 feet.</p></div>
-
-<div class="footnote">
-
-<p><a name="Footnote_4_4" id="Footnote_4_4"></a><a href="#FNanchor_4_4"><span class="label">[4]</span></a> The name survives in Pike Gardens, Bankside.</p></div>
-
-<div class="footnote">
-
-<p><a name="Footnote_5_5" id="Footnote_5_5"></a><a href="#FNanchor_5_5"><span class="label">[5]</span></a> See the "Bear-house" near the "Play-house" (<i>i.e.</i>, the Rose) in
-Norden's plan, 1593.</p></div>
-
-<div class="footnote">
-
-<p><a name="Footnote_6_6" id="Footnote_6_6"></a><a href="#FNanchor_6_6"><span class="label">[6]</span></a> <i>Cal. State Papers</i>, 1603-10, p. 367.</p></div>
-
-<div class="footnote">
-
-<p><a name="Footnote_7_7" id="Footnote_7_7"></a><a href="#FNanchor_7_7"><span class="label">[7]</span></a> During the time that the Jacobites were formidable, and long after,
-it was firmly believed that the Old Pretender was brought into this room
-as a baby in a warming pan, and plans of the room were common to show
-how the fraud was committed.</p></div>
-
-<div class="footnote">
-
-<p><a name="Footnote_8_8" id="Footnote_8_8"></a><a href="#FNanchor_8_8"><span class="label">[8]</span></a> <i>Rariora</i>, vol. i., p. 17.</p></div>
-
-<div class="footnote">
-
-<p><a name="Footnote_9_9" id="Footnote_9_9"></a><a href="#FNanchor_9_9"><span class="label">[9]</span></a> Originally the crosses were of a blue colour, but Dr. Creighton says
-that the colour was changed to red before the plague of 1603.</p></div>
-
-<div class="footnote">
-
-<p><a name="Footnote_10_10" id="Footnote_10_10"></a><a href="#FNanchor_10_10"><span class="label">[10]</span></a> A full account of the fire and of the rebuilding of the city has still
-to be written, and the materials for the latter are to hand in the remarkable
-"Fire Papers" in the British Museum. I have long desired to work on
-this congenial subject, but having been prevented by other duties from
-doing so, I hope that some London expert will be induced to give the
-public a general idea of the contents of these valuable collections.</p></div>
-
-<div class="footnote">
-
-<p><a name="Footnote_11_11" id="Footnote_11_11"></a><a href="#FNanchor_11_11"><span class="label">[11]</span></a> <i>Cf. Cathedral Churches of Great Britain.</i> (Dent & Co.)</p></div>
-
-<div class="footnote">
-
-<p><a name="Footnote_12_12" id="Footnote_12_12"></a><a href="#FNanchor_12_12"><span class="label">[12]</span></a> <i>Cf.</i> Mr. Philip Norman's notes on a recent lecture by Mr. Arthur
-Keen. <i>Architect</i>, December 27th, 1907.</p></div></div>
-
-<hr class="full" />
-
-
-<h2><a name="Selected_from_the_Catalogue_of" id="Selected_from_the_Catalogue_of">Selected from the Catalogue of</a><br />
-BEMROSE & SONS Ltd.</h2>
-
-<hr class="tb" />
-
-<p class='center u' style="font-size: x-large;"><b>Memorials of the Counties of England.</b></p>
-
-<p class='center'><i>Beautifully Illustrated. Demy 8vo, cloth extra, gilt top.<br />
-Price <b>15/-</b> each net.</i></p>
-
-
-<p><b>MEMORIALS OF OLD OXFORDSHIRE.</b></p>
-
-<p>Edited by the Rev. <span class="smcap">P. H. Ditchfield</span>, M.A., F.S.A. Dedicated by kind
-permission to the Right Hon. the Earl of Jersey, G.C.B., G.C.M.G.</p>
-
-<div class="blockquot">
-
-<p>"This beautiful book contains an exhaustive history of 'the wondrous Oxford,' to which so many
-distinguished scholars and politicians look back with affection. We must refer the reader to the
-volume itself ... and only wish that we had space to quote extracts from its interesting pages."—<i>Spectator.</i></p></div>
-
-
-<p><b>MEMORIALS OF OLD DEVONSHIRE.</b></p>
-
-<p>Edited by <span class="smcap">F. J. Snell</span>, M.A. Dedicated by kind permission to the Right
-Hon. Viscount Ebrington.</p>
-
-<div class="blockquot">
-
-<p>"A fascinating volume, which will be prized by thoughtful Devonians wherever they may be
-found ... richly illustrated, some rare engravings being represented."—<i>North Devon Journal.</i></p></div>
-
-
-<p><b>MEMORIALS OF OLD HEREFORDSHIRE.</b></p>
-
-<p>Edited by the Rev. <span class="smcap">Compton Reade</span>, M.A. Dedicated by kind permission to
-Sir John G. Cotterell, Bart.</p>
-
-<div class="blockquot">
-
-<p>"Another of these interesting volumes like the 'Memorials of Old Devonshire,' which we noted
-a week or two ago, containing miscellaneous papers on the history, topography, and families of the
-county by competent writers, with photographs and other illustrations."—<i>Times.</i></p></div>
-
-
-<p><b>MEMORIALS OF OLD HERTFORDSHIRE.</b></p>
-
-<p>Edited by <span class="smcap">Percy Cross Standing</span>. Dedicated by kind permission to the
-Right Hon. the Earl of Clarendon, G.C.B.</p>
-
-<div class="blockquot">
-
-<p>"The book, which contains some magnificent illustrations, will be warmly welcomed by all
-lovers of our county and its entertaining history."—<i>West Herts and Watford Observer.</i></p>
-
-<p>"The volume as a whole is an admirable and informing one, and all Hertfordshire folk should
-possess it, if only as a partial antidote to the suburbanism which threatens to overwhelm their
-beautiful county."—<i>Guardian.</i></p></div>
-
-
-<p><b>MEMORIALS OF OLD HAMPSHIRE.</b></p>
-
-<p>Edited by the Rev. <span class="smcap">G. E. Jeans</span>, M.A., F.S.A. Dedicated by kind permission
-to His Grace the Duke of Wellington, K.G.</p>
-
-<div class="blockquot">
-
-<p>"'Memorials of the Counties of England' is worthily carried on in this interesting and readable
-volume."—<i>Scotsman.</i></p></div>
-
-
-<p><b>MEMORIALS OF OLD SOMERSET.</b></p>
-
-<p>Edited by <span class="smcap">F. J. Snell</span>, M.A. Dedicated by kind permission to the Most
-Hon. the Marquis of Bath.</p>
-
-<div class="blockquot">
-
-<p>"In these pages, as in a mirror, the whole life of the county, legendary, romantic, historical, comes
-into view, for in truth the book is written with a happy union of knowledge and enthusiasm—a fine bit
-of glowing mosaic put together by fifteen writers into a realistic picture of the county."—<i>Standard.</i></p></div>
-
-
-<p><b>MEMORIALS OF OLD WILTSHIRE.</b></p>
-
-<p>Edited by <span class="smcap">Alice Dryden</span>.</p>
-
-<div class="blockquot">
-
-<p>"The admirable series of County Memorials ... will, it is safe to say, include no volume of
-greater interest than that devoted to Wiltshire."—<i>Daily Telegraph.</i></p></div>
-
-
-<p><b>MEMORIALS OF OLD SHROPSHIRE.</b></p>
-
-<p>Edited by the Rev. <span class="smcap">Thomas Auden</span>, M.A., F.S.A.</p>
-
-<div class="blockquot">
-
-<p>"Quite the best volume which has appeared so far in a series that has throughout maintained
-a very high level."—<i>Tribune.</i></p></div>
-
-
-<p><b>MEMORIALS OF OLD KENT.</b></p>
-
-<p>Edited by the Rev. <span class="smcap">P. H. Ditchfield</span>, M.A., F.S.A., and <span class="smcap">George Clinch</span>,
-F.G.S. Dedicated by special permission to the Rt. Hon. Lord Northbourne,
-F.S.A.</p>
-
-<div class="blockquot">
-
-<p>"A very delightful addition to a delightful series. Kent, rich in honour and tradition as in
-beauty, is a fruitful subject of which the various contributors have taken full advantage, archology,
-topography, and gossip being pleasantly combined to produce a volume both attractive and
-valuable."—<i>Standard.</i></p></div>
-
-
-<p><b>MEMORIALS OF OLD DERBYSHIRE.</b></p>
-
-<p>Edited by the Rev. <span class="smcap">J. Charles Cox</span>, LL.D., F.S.A. Dedicated by kind permission
-to His Grace the Duke of Devonshire, K.G.</p>
-
-<div class="blockquot">
-
-<p>"A valuable addition to our county history, and will possess a peculiar fascination for all who
-devote their attention to historical, archological, or antiquarian research, and probably to a much
-wider circle."—<i>Derbyshire Advertiser.</i></p></div>
-
-
-<p><b>MEMORIALS OF OLD DORSET.</b></p>
-
-<p>Edited by the Rev. <span class="smcap">Thomas Perkins</span>, M.A., and the Rev. <span class="smcap">Herbert Pentin</span>,
-M.A. Dedicated by kind permission to the Right Hon. Lord Eustace Cecil,
-F.R.G.S.</p>
-
-<div class="blockquot">
-
-<p>"The volume, in fine, forms a noteworthy accession to the valuable series of books in which it
-appears."—<i>Scotsman.</i></p></div>
-
-
-<p><b>MEMORIALS OF OLD WARWICKSHIRE.</b></p>
-
-<p>Edited by <span class="smcap">Alice Dryden</span>.</p>
-
-<div class="blockquot">
-
-<p>"Worthy of an honoured place on our shelves. It is also one of the best, if not the best, volume
-in a series of exceptional interest and usefulness."—<i>Birmingham Gazette.</i></p></div>
-
-
-<p><b>MEMORIALS OF OLD NORFOLK.</b></p>
-
-<p>Edited by the Rev. <span class="smcap">H. J. Dukinfield Astley</span>, M.A., Litt.D., F.R.Hist.S.
-Dedicated by kind permission to the Right Hon. Viscount Coke, C.M.G., C.V.O.</p>
-
-<div class="blockquot">
-
-<p>"This latest contribution to the history and archology of Norfolk deserves a foremost place
-among local works.... The tasteful binding, good print, and paper are everything that can be
-desired."—<i>Eastern Daily Press.</i></p></div>
-
-
-<p><b>MEMORIALS OF OLD LONDON.</b> Two vols. Price <b>25/-</b> net. Edited by
-the Rev. <span class="smcap">P. H. Ditchfield</span>, M.A., F.S.A.</p>
-
-<div class="blockquot">
-
-<p><span class="smcap">Contents</span>: Celtic, Roman, Saxon, and Norman London, by the Rev. W. J. Loftie, F.S.A.—The
-Tower of London, by Harold Sands, F.S.A.—St. Bartholomew's Church, Smithfield, by
-J. Tavenor-Perry.—The Charterhouse, by the Rev. A. G. B. Atkinson, M.A.—Glimpses of Medival
-London, by G. Clinch, F.G.S.—The Palaces of London, by the Rev. R. S. Mylne, LL.D., F.S.A.—The
-Temple, by the Rev. H. G. Woods, D.D., Master.—The Inns of Court, by E. Williams—The
-Guildhall, by C. Welsh, F.S.A.—The City Companies, by the Editor.—The Kontor of the Hanse, by
-J. Tavenor-Perry.—The Arms of London, by J. Tavenor-Perry.—Elizabethan London, by
-T. Fairman Ordish, F.S.A.—The London of Pepys, by H. B. Wheatley, F.S.A.—The Thames
-and its Bridges, by J. Tavenor-Perry.—The Old Inns of London, by Philip Norman, LL.D.—London
-Clubs, by Sir Edward Brabrook, C.B., F.S.A.—The Coffee Houses, by G. L. Apperson.—Learned
-Societies of London, by Sir Edward Brabrook, C.B., F.S.A.—Literary Shrines, by
-Mrs. Lang.—Crosby Hall, by the Editor.—The Pageant of London; with some account of the City
-Churches, Christ's Hospital, etc., by the Editor.</p></div>
-
-
-<p><b>MEMORIALS OF OLD ESSEX.</b> Edited by <span class="smcap">A. Clifton Kelway</span>, F.R.Hist.S.</p>
-
-<div class="blockquot">
-
-<p>Among the contributors are: Guy Maynard, Francis W. Reader, Rev. J. Charles
-Cox, LL.D., F.S.A., C. Forbes, T. Grose Lloyd, C. Fell Smith, Alfred Kingston, Miller
-Christy, F.L.S., W. W. Porteous, E. Bertram Smith, Thomas Fforster, Edward Smith, and
-the Editor.</p></div>
-
-
-<p class='center'><i>The following volumes are in preparation:—</i></p>
-
-<p><b>MEMORIALS OF OLD SUFFOLK.</b> Edited by <span class="smcap">Vincent B. Redstone</span>,
-F.R.Hist.S.</p>
-
-<div class="blockquot">
-
-<p>Among the contributors will be: F. Seymour Stevenson, M.A., Rev. J. Charles Cox, LL.D.,
-F.S.A., L. P. Steele Hutton, Rev. Rowland Maitland, B.A., B. J. Balding, P. Turner,
-H. J. Hitchcock, and the Editor.</p></div>
-
-
-<p><b>MEMORIALS OF OLD SUSSEX.</b> Edited by <span class="smcap">Percy D. Mundy</span>.</p>
-
-
-<p><b>MEMORIALS OF OLD LANCASHIRE.</b> Two vols. Price <b>25/-</b> net.
-Edited by <span class="smcap">Lieut.-Colonel Fishwick</span>, F.S.A.</p>
-
-
-<p><b>MEMORIALS OF OLD YORKSHIRE.</b> Edited by <span class="smcap">T. M. Fallow</span>,
-M.A., F.S.A.</p>
-
-
-<p><b>MEMORIALS OF OLD GLOUCESTERSHIRE.</b> Edited by <span class="smcap">P. W. P.
-Phillimore</span>, M.A., B.C.L.</p>
-
-
-<p><b>MEMORIALS OF OLD LINCOLNSHIRE.</b> Edited by <span class="smcap">Canon Hudson</span>, M.A.</p>
-
-
-<p><b>MEMORIALS OF OLD NOTTINGHAMSHIRE.</b> Edited by <span class="smcap">P. W. P.
-Phillimore</span>, M.A., B.C.L.</p>
-
-
-<p><b>MEMORIALS OF NORTH WALES.</b> Edited by <span class="smcap">E. Alfred Jones</span>.</p>
-
-
-<p><b>MEMORIALS OF OLD MANXLAND.</b> Edited by the Rev. <span class="smcap">John Quine</span>, M.A.</p>
-
-
-<p><b>MEMORIALS OF SOUTH WALES.</b> Edited by <span class="smcap">E. Alfred Jones</span>.</p>
-
-
-<p><b>MEMORIALS OF OLD STAFFORDSHIRE.</b> Edited by the Rev. <span class="smcap">W. Beresford</span>.</p>
-
-
-<p><b>MEMORIALS OF OLD MONMOUTHSHIRE.</b> Edited by <span class="smcap">Colonel
-Bradney</span>, F.S.A., and <span class="smcap">J. Kyrle Fletcher</span>.</p>
-
-
-<p><b>MEMORIALS OF OLD WORCESTERSHIRE.</b> Edited by <span class="smcap">F. B. Andrews</span>,
-F.R.I.B.A.</p>
-
-
-<p><b>MEMORIALS OF OLD LEICESTERSHIRE.</b> Edited by <span class="smcap">Alice Dryden</span>.</p>
-
-
-<p><b>MEMORIALS OF OLD CHESHIRE.</b> Edited by the <span class="smcap">Ven. the Archdeacon
-of Chester</span>, and the Rev. <span class="smcap">P. H. Ditchfield</span>, M.A., F.S.A.</p>
-
-
-<p><b>OLD ENGLISH GOLD PLATE.</b></p>
-
-<p>By <span class="smcap">E. Alfred Jones</span>. With numerous Illustrations of existing specimens
-of Old English Gold Plate, which by reason of their great rarity and
-historic value deserve publication in book form. The examples are from
-the collections of Plate belonging to His Majesty the King, the Dukes of
-Devonshire, Newcastle, Norfolk, Portland, and Rutland, the Marquis of
-Ormonde, the Earls of Craven, Derby, and Yarborough, Earl Spencer, Lord
-Fitzhardinge, Lord Waleran, Mr. Leopold de Rothschild, the Colleges of
-Oxford and Cambridge, &c. Royal 4to, buckram, gilt top. Price <b>21/-</b> net.</p>
-
-<div class="blockquot">
-
-<p>"Pictures, descriptions, and introduction make a book that must rank high in the estimation of
-students of its subject, and of the few who are well off enough to be collectors in this Corinthian field
-of luxury."—<i>Scotsman.</i></p></div>
-
-
-<p><b>LONGTON HALL PORCELAIN.</b></p>
-
-<p>Being further information relating to this interesting fabrique, by the late
-<span class="smcap">William Bemrose</span>, F.S.A., author of <i>Bow, Chelsea and Derby Porcelain</i>. Illustrated
-with 27 Coloured Art Plates, 21 Collotype Plates, and numerous line
-and half-tone Illustrations in the text. Bound in handsome "Longton-blue"
-cloth cover, suitably designed. Price <b>42/-</b> net.</p>
-
-<div class="blockquot">
-
-<p>"This magnificent work on the famous Longton Hall ware will be indispensable to the
-collector."—<i>Bookman.</i></p>
-
-<p>"The collector will find Mr. Bemrose's explanations of the technical features which characterize
-the Longton Hall pottery of great assistance in identifying specimens, and he will be aided thereto by
-the many well-selected illustrations."—<i>Athenum.</i></p></div>
-
-
-<p><b>THE VALUES OF OLD ENGLISH SILVER & SHEFFIELD
-PLATE, FROM THE FIFTEENTH TO THE NINETEENTH
-CENTURIES.</b></p>
-
-<p>By <span class="smcap">J. W. Caldicott</span>. Edited by <span class="smcap">J. Starkie Gardner</span>, F.S.A. 3,000
-Selected Auction Sale Records; 1,600 Separate Valuations; 660 Articles.
-Illustrated with 87 Collotype Plates. 300 pages. Royal 4to Cloth. Price
-<b>42/-</b> net.</p>
-
-<div class="blockquot">
-
-<p>"A most comprehensive and abundantly illustrated volume.... Enables even the most inexperienced
-to form a fair opinion of the value either of a single article or a collection, while as a
-reference and reminder it must prove of great value to an advanced student."—<i>Daily Telegraph.</i></p></div>
-
-
-<p><b>HISTORY OF OLD ENGLISH PORCELAIN AND ITS
-MANUFACTURES.</b></p>
-
-<p>With an Artistic, Industrial and Critical Appreciation of their Productions.
-By <span class="smcap">M. L. Solon</span>, the well-known Potter-Artist and Collector. In one
-handsome volume. Royal 8vo, well printed in clear type on good paper, and
-beautifully illustrated with 20 full-page Coloured Collotype and Photo-Chromotype
-Plates and 48 Collotype Plates on Tint. Artistically bound.
-Price <b>52/6</b> net.</p>
-
-<div class="blockquot">
-
-<p>"Mr. Solon writes not only with the authority of the master of technique, but likewise with that
-of the accomplished artist, whose exquisite creations command the admiration of the connoisseurs of
-to-day."—<i>Athenum.</i></p></div>
-
-
-<p><b>MANX CROSSES; or The Inscribed and Sculptured Monuments
-of the Isle of Man, from about the end of the Fifth to
-the beginning of the Thirteenth Century.</b></p>
-
-<p>By <span class="smcap">P. M. C. Kermode</span>, F.S.A.Scot., &c. The illustrations are from drawings
-specially prepared by the Author, founded upon rubbings, and carefully
-compared with photographs and with the stones themselves. In one handsome
-Quarto Volume 11<sup>1</sup>/<sub>8</sub> in. by 8<sup>5</sup>/<sub>8</sub> in., printed on Van Gelder hand-made
-paper, bound in full buckram, gilt top, with special design on the side.
-Price <b>63/-</b> net. The edition is limited to 400 copies.</p>
-
-<div class="blockquot">
-
-<p>"We have now a complete account of the subject in this very handsome volume, which Manx
-patriotism, assisted by the appreciation of the public in general, will, we hope, make a success."—<i>Spectator.</i></p></div>
-
-
-<p><b>DERBYSHIRE CHARTERS IN PUBLIC AND PRIVATE
-LIBRARIES AND MUNIMENT ROOMS.</b></p>
-
-<p>Compiled, with Preface and Indexes, for Sir Henry Howe Bemrose, Kt., by
-<span class="smcap">Isaac Herbert Jeayes</span>, Assistant Keeper in the Department of MSS.,
-British Museum. Royal 8vo, cloth, gilt top. Price <b>42/-</b> net.</p>
-
-<div class="blockquot">
-
-<p>"The book must always prove of high value to investigators in its own recondite field of research,
-and would form a suitable addition to any historical library."—<i>Scotsman.</i></p></div>
-
-
-<p><b>SOME DORSET MANOR HOUSES, WITH THEIR LITERARY
-AND HISTORICAL ASSOCIATIONS.</b></p>
-
-<p>By <span class="smcap">Sidney Heath</span>, with a fore-word by R. Bosworth Smith, of Bingham's
-Melcombe. Illustrated with forty drawings by the Author, in addition to
-numerous rubbings of Sepulchral Brasses by W. de C. Prideaux, reproduced
-by permission of the Dorset Natural History and Antiquarian Field Club.
-Dedicated by kind permission to the most Hon. the Marquis of Salisbury.
-Royal 4to, cloth, bevelled edges. Price <b>30/-</b> net.</p>
-
-<div class="blockquot">
-
-<p>"Dorset is rich in old-world manor houses; and in this large, attractive volume twenty are
-dealt with in pleasant, descriptive and antiquarian chapters, fully illustrated with pen-and-ink
-drawings by Mr. Heath and rubbings from brasses by W. de C. Prideaux."—<i>Times.</i></p></div>
-
-
-<p><b>THE CHURCH PLATE OF THE DIOCESE OF BANGOR.</b></p>
-
-<p>By <span class="smcap">E. Alfred Jones</span>. With Illustrations of about one hundred pieces of
-Old Plate, including a pre-Reformation Silver Chalice, hitherto unknown;
-a Mazer Bowl, a fine Elizabethan Domestic Cup and Cover, a Tazza of the
-same period, several Elizabethan Chalices, and other important Plate from
-James I. to Queen Anne. Demy 4to, buckram. Price <b>21/-</b> net.</p>
-
-<div class="blockquot">
-
-<p>"This handsome volume is the most interesting book on Church Plate hitherto issued."—<i>Athenum.</i></p></div>
-
-
-<p><b>THE OLD CHURCH PLATE OF THE ISLE OF MAN.</b></p>
-
-<p>By <span class="smcap">E. Alfred Jones</span>. With many illustrations, including a pre-Reformation
-Silver Chalice and Paten, an Elizabethan Beaker, and other important
-pieces of Old Silver Plate and Pewter. Crown 4to, buckram. Price <b>10/6</b>
-net.</p>
-
-<div class="blockquot">
-
-<p>"A beautifully illustrated descriptive account of the many specimens of Ecclesiastical Plate to
-be found in the Island."—<i>Manchester Courier.</i></p></div>
-
-
-<p><b>GARDEN CITIES IN THEORY AND PRACTICE.</b></p>
-
-<p>By <span class="smcap">A. R. Sennett</span>, A.M.I.C.E., &c. Large Crown 8vo. Two vols.,
-attractively bound in cloth, with 400 Plates, Plans and Illustrations. Price
-<b>21/-</b> net.</p>
-
-<div class="blockquot">
-
-<p>"... What Mr. Sennett has to say here deserves, and will no doubt command, the careful
-consideration of those who govern the future fortunes of the Garden City."—<i>Bookseller.</i></p></div>
-
-
-<p><b>DERBY: ITS RISE AND PROGRESS.</b></p>
-
-<p>By <span class="smcap">A. W. Davison</span>, illustrated with 12 plates and two maps. Crown 8vo,
-cloth. Price <b>5/-</b>.</p>
-
-<div class="blockquot">
-
-<p>"A volume with which Derby and its people should be well satisfied."—<i>Scotsman.</i></p></div>
-
-
-<p><b>THE CORPORATION PLATE AND INSIGNIA OF OFFICE
-OF THE CITIES AND TOWNS OF ENGLAND AND WALES.</b></p>
-
-<p>By the late <span class="smcap">Llewellynn Jewitt</span>, F.S.A. Edited and completed with large
-additions by <span class="smcap">W. H. St. John Hope</span>, M.A. Fully illustrated, 2 vols., Crown
-4to, buckram, <b>84/-</b> net. Large paper, 2 vols., Royal 4to, <b>105/-</b> net.</p>
-
-<div class="blockquot">
-
-<p>"It is difficult to praise too highly the careful research and accurate information throughout these
-two handsome quartos."—<i>Athenum.</i></p></div>
-
-
-<p><b>THE RELIQUARY: AN ILLUSTRATED MAGAZINE FOR
-ANTIQUARIES, ARTISTS, AND COLLECTORS.</b></p>
-
-<p>A Quarterly Journal and Review devoted to the study of primitive industries,
-medival handicrafts, the evolution of ornament, religious symbolism,
-survival of the past in the present, and ancient art generally. Edited by the
-Rev. <span class="smcap">J. Charles Cox</span>, LL.D., F.S.A. New Series. Vols. 1 to 13, Super
-Royal 8vo, buckram, price <b>12/-</b> each net. Special terms for sets.</p>
-
-<div class="blockquot">
-
-<p>"Of permanent interest to all who take an interest in the many and wide branches of which it
-furnishes not only information and research, but also illumination in pictorial form."—<i>Scotsman.</i></p></div>
-
-<hr class="full" />
-
-<p class='center'>
-<span class="smcap">London: Bemrose & Sons Ltd., 4 Snow Hill, E.C.;<br />
-And Derby.</span><br />
-</p>
-
-<p> </p>
-<p> </p>
-<hr class="pg" />
-<p>***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MEMORIALS OF OLD LONDON, VOLUME II (OF 2)***</p>
-<p>******* This file should be named 48187-h.htm or 48187-h.zip *******</p>
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+<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" + "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd"> +<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml"> +<head> +<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8" /> +<title>The Project Gutenberg eBook of Memorials of Old London, Volume II (of 2), by P. H. Peter Hampson) Ditchfield</title> + <link rel="coverpage" href="images/cover.jpg" /> + <style type="text/css"> + +body { + margin-left: 10%; + margin-right: 10%; +} + + h1,h2,h3,h4,h5,h6 { + text-align: center; /* all headings centered */ + clear: both; +} + +p { + margin-top: .51em; + text-align: justify; + margin-bottom: .49em; +} +.p1{ + text-align: center; + font-size: xx-large; + font-weight: bold; +} + +.p3{ + text-align: center; + font-size: large; + font-weight: bold; +} + +hr { + width: 33%; + margin-top: 2em; + margin-bottom: 2em; + margin-left: auto; + margin-right: auto; + clear: both; +} + +hr.tb {margin-left:17.5%; width:65%; margin-right:17.5%;} +hr.chap{margin-left:17.5%; width:65%; margin-right:17.5%;} +hr.full {margin-left:2.5%; width:95%; margin-right:2.5%;} + +ul.index { list-style-type: none; } +li.ifrst { margin-top: 1em; } +li.indx { margin-top: .5em; } + +table { + margin-left: auto; + margin-right: auto; +} + +.pagenum { /* uncomment the next line for invisible page numbers */ + /* visibility: hidden; */ + position: absolute; + left: 92%; + font-size: smaller; + text-align: right; +} /* page numbers */ + +.blockquot { + margin-left: 5%; + margin-right: 10%; +} + +.center {text-align: center;} + +.right {text-align: right;} + +.smcap {font-variant: small-caps;} + +.lowercase {text-transform: lowercase;} + +.u {text-decoration: underline;} + +.caption {font-weight: bold;} + +.img_link {text-align: center;} + +/* Images */ +.figcenter { + margin: auto; + text-align: center; +} + +/* Footnotes */ +.footnotes {border: dashed 1px;} + +.footnote {margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%; font-size: 0.9em;} + +.footnote .label {position: absolute; right: 84%; text-align: right;} + +.fnanchor { + vertical-align: super; + font-size: .8em; + text-decoration: + none; +} + +sup { + font-size: 75%; +} + +sub { + font-size: 75%; +} + +/* Poetry */ +.poem { + margin-left:10%; + margin-right:10%; + text-align: left; +} + +.poem br {display: none;} + +.poem .stanza {margin: 1em 0em 1em 0em;} + .poem span.i0 {display: block; margin-left: 0em; padding-left: 3em; text-indent: -3em;} + .poem span.i2 {display: block; margin-left: 1em; padding-left: 3em; text-indent: -3em;} + .poem span.i20 {display: block; margin-left: 10em; padding-left: 3em; text-indent: -3em;} + +img.drop-cap +{ + float: left; + margin: 0 0.5em 0 0; +} + +p.drop-cap:first-letter +{ + color: transparent; + visibility: hidden; + margin-left: -0.9em; +} + +@media handheld +{ + img.drop-cap + { + display: none; + } + + p.drop-cap:first-letter + { + color: inherit; + visibility: visible; + margin-left: 0; + } + .lowercase{ + text-transform: uppercase + } + +.img_link {display: none; visibility: hidden;} +} + + hr.pg { width: 100%; + margin-top: 3em; + margin-bottom: 0em; + margin-left: auto; + margin-right: auto; + height: 4px; + border-width: 4px 0 0 0; /* remove all borders except the top one */ + border-style: solid; + border-color: #000000; + clear: both; } + </style> +</head> +<body> +<div>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 48187 ***</div> +<h1>The Project Gutenberg eBook, Memorials of Old London, Volume II (of 2), +Edited by P. H. Peter Hampson) Ditchfield</h1> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<table border="0" style="background-color: #ccccff;margin: 0 auto;" cellpadding="10"> + <tr> + <td valign="top"> + Note: + </td> + <td> + Project Gutenberg has the other volume of this work.<br /> + <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm">Volume I</a>: see http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm<br /> + </td> + </tr> +</table> +<p> </p> +<hr class="pg" /> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> + +<p class='p3'><span class="smcap">Memorials of the Counties of England</span></p> + +<p class='center'>General Editor:<br /> +<span class="smcap">Rev. P. H. Ditchfield</span>, M.A., F.S.A., F.R.S.L., F.R.Hist.S.</p> + + + + +<h1 style="margin-top:4em;"><span class="smcap">Memorials of Old London</span></h1> + +<p class='p3' style="margin-bottom:4em;">VOLUME II.</p> + +<hr class="chap" /> + +<div class="figcenter"><a id="frontispiece"></a> +<img src="images/image_001.jpg" width="600" height="427" alt="" /> +<div class="caption"><p class='center'>CRAB TREE INN, HAMMERSMITH +1898</p> + +<p class='center'><i>From a painting +by Philip Norman, LL.D.</i></p></div> +</div> + + +<hr class="chap" /> + +<p class='p1'>MEMORIALS<br /> +OF OLD LONDON</p> + +<p class="center">EDITED BY<br /> +<span style="font-size: x-large;">P. H. DITCHFIELD</span>, M.A., F.S.A.</p> + +<p class="center"><span class="smcap">Fellow of the Royal Historical Society</span></p> +<p class='center' style="margin-top: 2em;"><span class="smcap">Author of</span><br /> +<i>The City Companies of London and their Good Works</i><br /> +<i>The Story of our Towns</i><br /> +<i>The Cathedral Churches of Great Britain</i><br /> +<i>&c. &c.</i></p> + + +<p class="center" style="margin-top: 2em;">IN TWO VOLUMES<br /> +VOL. II.</p> + + +<p class="center" style="margin-top: 2em;"><span class='smcap'>With Many Illustrations</span></p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/title.jpg" width="100" height="68" alt="" /> +</div> + +<p class="center">LONDON<br /> +BEMROSE & SONS LIMITED, 4 SNOW HILL, E.C.<br /> +AND DERBY<br /> +1908</p> + +<p class="center">[<i>All Rights Reserved</i>] +</p> + +<hr class="chap" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_v" id="Page_v">{v}</a></span></p> + + + + +<h2><a name="CONTENTS_OF_VOL_II" id="CONTENTS_OF_VOL_II">CONTENTS OF VOL. II.</a></h2> + + + + + +<div class="center"> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align="right" colspan='3'><span class='smcap'>Page</span></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">The Palaces of London</td><td align="left">By Rev. <span class="smcap">R. S. Mylne</span>, B.C.L., F.S.A.</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_1">1</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Elizabethan London</td><td align="left">By <span class="smcap">T. Fairman Ordish</span>, F.S.A.</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_21">21</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Pepys's London</td><td align="left">By <span class="smcap">H. B. Wheatley</span>, F.S.A.</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_52">52</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">The Old London Bridges</td><td align="left">By <span class="smcap">J. Tavenor-Perry</span></td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_82">82</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">The Clubs of London</td><td align="left">By Sir <span class="smcap">Edwd. Brabrook</span>, C.B., F.S.A.</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_99">99</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">The Inns of Old London</td><td align="left">By <span class="smcap">Philip Norman</span>, LL.D.</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_113">113</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">The Old London Coffee-Houses</td><td align="left">By <span class="smcap">G. L. Apperson</span>, I.S.O.</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_135">135</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">The Learned Societies of London</td><td align="left">By Sir <span class="smcap">Edwd. Brabrook</span>, C.B., F.S.A.</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_150">150</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Literary Shrines of Old London</td><td align="left">By <span class="smcap">Elsie M. Lang</span></td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_166">166</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Crosby Hall</td><td align="left">By the <span class="smcap">Editor</span></td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_182">182</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">The Pageant of London; with some account of the City Churches, Christ's Hospital, etc.</td><td align="left">By the <span class="smcap">Editor</span></td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_193">193</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left" colspan='2'>Index</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_223">223</a></td></tr> +</table></div> + + +<hr class="chap" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_vii" id="Page_vii">{vii}</a></span></p> + + + + +<h2><a name="LIST_OF_ILLUSTRATIONS" id="LIST_OF_ILLUSTRATIONS">LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS +IN VOL. II.</a></h2> + + + +<div class="center"> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align="left">Crab Tree Inn, Hammersmith, 1898</td><td align="left"><i><a href="#frontispiece">Frontispiece</a></i></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">(<i>From a painting by Philip Norman, LL.D.</i>)</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan='2'><span class="smcap">Page, or Facing Page</span></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">The Houses of Parliament</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_4">4</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">(<i>From a photo. by Mansell & Co.</i>)</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">A View of the Savoy Palace from the River Thames</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_7">6</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">(<i>From an engraving published by the Society of Antiquaries in 1750, from a plan by G. Virtue</i>)</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Portion of an exact Survey of the Streets, Lanes, and Churches</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_9">8</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">(<i>Comprehended by the order and directions of the Right Honourable the Lord Mayor, 10th December, 1666</i>)</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">The Prospect of Bridewell</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_11">10</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">(<i>Published according to Act of Parliament, 1755, for Stow's Survey</i>)</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">The Palace of Whitehall</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_14">14</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">(<i>From a photo. by Mansell & Co.</i>)</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">St. James's Palace</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_17">16</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">(<i>From a photo. by Mansell & Co.</i>)</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">St. James's Palace, from Pall Mall and from the Park</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_19">18</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">(<i>From an old print</i>)</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Plan of London in the time of Queen Elizabeth (1563)</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_25">24</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">(<i>From an old print</i>)</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Shooting Match by the London Archers in the Year 1583</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_44">44</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">(<i>From an old print</i>)</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">A View of London as it appeared before the Great Fire</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_56">56</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">(<i>From an old print</i>)</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">The Great Fire of London</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_76">76</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">(<i>From an old print</i>)</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">South-West View of Old St. Paul's</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_80">80</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">(<i>From an old print</i>)</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Sir John Evelyn's Plan for Rebuilding London after the Great Fire</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_83">82</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">(<i>From an old print</i>)</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_viii" id="Page_viii">{viii}</a></span>The Undercroft of St. Thomas of Canterbury on the Bridge</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_84">84</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">The Surrey End of London Bridge</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_89">89</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">(<i>Drawn by J. Tavenor-Perry</i>)</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">The Foundation Stone Chair</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_93">93</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">(<i>Drawn by J. Tavenor-Perry</i>)</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Old Westminster Bridge</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_96">96</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">(<i>Drawn by J. Tavenor-Perry</i>)</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Badge of Bridge House Estates</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_98">98</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">(<i>Drawn by J. Tavenor-Perry</i>)</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">An Early Letter of the Royal Society, dated January 18th, 1693-4</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_153">152</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Cheapside, with the Cross, as they appeared in 1660</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_171">170</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">(<i>From an old print</i>)</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Crosby Hall</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_185">184</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">(<i>From a drawing by Whichillo, engraved by Stour</i>)</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">St. Paul's Cathedral, with Lord Mayor's Show on the water</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_190">190</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">(<i>From an engraving by Pugh, 1804</i>)</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Christ's Hospital</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_195">194</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">(<i>From an old print</i>)</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Carrying the Crug-basket</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_196">196</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Wooden Platters and Beer Jack</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_198">198</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Piggin, Wooden Spoon, Wooden Soup-ladle</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_199">199</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Christ's Hospital: The Garden</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_201">200</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">(<i>From a photo.</i>)</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Old Staircase at Christ's Hospital</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_202">202</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">The Royal Exchange</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_218">218</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">(<i>From an engraving by Hollar, 1644</i>)</td></tr> +</table></div> +<hr class="chap" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_1" id="Page_1">{1}</a></span></p> + + +<div class="chapter"> + +<h2><a name="THE_PALACES_OF_LONDON" id="THE_PALACES_OF_LONDON">THE PALACES OF LONDON</a></h2> + +<p class='p3'><span class="smcap">By the Rev. R. S. Mylne, B.C.L. (Oxon), F.S.A. +F.R.S. (Scots.)</span></p> + +<div> +<img class="drop-cap" src="images/drop-t.png" width="100" height="118" alt="" /> +</div> + +<p class="drop-cap">The housing of the Sovereign is always a matter +of interest to the nation. It were natural to +expect that some definite arrangement should +be made for this purpose, planned and executed +on a grand and appropriate scale. Yet as a matter of +fact this is seldom the case amongst the western nations +of Europe. Two different causes have operated in a +contrary direction. One is the natural predilection of +the ruler of the State for a commodious palace outside, +but not far from, the capital. Thus the great Castle of +Windsor has always been <i>par excellence</i> the favourite +residence of the King of England. The other is the +growth of parliamentary institutions. Thus the entire +space occupied by the original Royal Palace has become +the official meeting-place of the Parliament; and the King +himself has perforce been compelled to find accommodation +elsewhere.</p> + +<p>Look at the actual history of the Royal Palace of +<i>Westminster</i>, where the High Court of Parliament now is +accustomed to assemble. It was on this very spot that +Edward the Confessor lived and died, glorying in the +close proximity of the noble abbey that seemed to give +sanctity to his own abode. Here the last Saxon King +entertained Duke William of Normandy, destined to be +his own successor on the throne. Here he gave the +famous feast in which he foretold the failure of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_2" id="Page_2">{2}</a></span> +crusades, as Baring Gould records in his delightful +<i>Myths of the Middle Ages</i>. Here Edward I. was born, +and Edward III. died. The great hall was erected by +William Rufus, and the chapel by King Stephen. +Henry VIII. added the star chamber. The painted +chamber, decorated with frescoes by Henry III., was +probably the oldest portion of the mediæval palace, and +just beyond was the prince's chamber with walls +seven feet thick. There was also the ancient Court +of Requests, which served as the House of Lords down +to 1834. The beautiful Gothic Chapel of St. Stephen +was used as the House of Commons from 1547 to +1834. The walls were covered with frescoes representing +scenes from the Old and New Testaments. In modern +times they resounded to the eloquence of Pitt, Fox, +Burke, and Canning.</p> + +<p>The curious crypt beneath this chapel was carefully +prepared by H.M. Office of Works for the celebration +of the marriage of Lord Chancellor Loreburn last +December, and a coffin was discovered while making +certain reparations to the stonework, which is believed +to contain the remains of the famous Dr. Lyndwode, +Bishop of St. David's from 1442 to 1446.</p> + +<p>In the terrible fire on the night of October 16, 1834, +the entire palace was destroyed with the exception of +the great hall, which, begun by William Rufus, received +its present beautiful roof of chestnut wood from Henry +Yeveley, architect or master mason to Richard II.</p> + +<p>The present magnificent Palace of Westminster was +erected by Sir Charles Barry between 1840 and 1859 in +the Gothic style, and is certainly one of the finest modern +buildings in the world. The river front is remarkably +effective, and presents an appearance which at once +arrests the attention of every visitor. It is quite +twice the size of the old palace, formerly occupied by +the King, and cost three millions sterling. It is certainly +the finest modern building in London.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3">{3}</a></span></p> + +<p>Some critics have objected to the minuteness of the +decorative designs on the flat surfaces of the walls, but +these are really quite in accord with the delicate genius +of Gothic architecture, and fine examples of this kind of +work are found in Belgium and other parts of the +Continent.</p> + +<p>Every one must admit the elegance of proportion +manifested in the architect's design, and this it is which +makes the towers stand out so well above the main +building from every point of view; moreover, this is +the special characteristic which is often so terribly +lacking in modern architecture. One wonders whether +Vitruvius and kindred works receive their due meed of +attention in this twentieth century.</p> + +<p>Within the palace the main staircase, with the lobby +and corridors leading to either House of Parliament, are +particularly fine, and form a worthy approach to the +legislative chambers of the vast Empire of Great Britain.</p> + +<p>The Palace of the <i>Savoy</i> also needs some notice. The +original house was built by Peter, brother of Boniface, +for so many years Archbishop of Canterbury, and uncle +of Eleanor of Provence, wife of King Henry III. By his +will Peter bequeathed this estate to the monks of +Montjoy at Havering-at-Bower, who sold it to Queen +Eleanor, and it became the permanent residence of her +second son Edmund, Earl of Lancaster, and his +descendants. When King John of France was made a +prisoner after the battle of Poitiers in 1356, he was +assigned an apartment in the Savoy, and here he died +on April 9, 1364. The sad event is thus mentioned in +the famous chronicle of Froissart:—</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>"The King and Queen, and all the princes of the blood, and all the +nobles of England were exceedingly concerned from the great love and +affection King John had shewn them since the conclusion of peace."</p></div> + +<p>The best-known member of the Lancastrian family +who resided in this palace is the famous John of Gaunt,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4">{4}</a></span> +Duke of Lancaster. During his time, so tradition has it, +the well-known poet Chaucer was here married to +Philippa, daughter of Sir Paon de Roet, one of the young +ladies attached to the household of Blanche, Duchess of +Lancaster, and the sister of Catherine Swynford, who at +a later period became the Duke's third wife. However +this may be, the Savoy was at that time the favourite +resort of the nobility of England, and John of Gaunt's +hospitality was unbounded. Stow, in his <i>Chronicle</i>, +declares "there was none other house in the realm to be +compared for beauty and stateliness." Yet how very +transitory is earthly glory, all the pride of place and +power!</p> + +<p>In the terrible rebellion of Wat Tyler, in the year +1381, the Savoy was pillaged and burnt, and the Duke +was compelled to flee for his life to the northern parts +of Great Britain. His Grace had become very unpopular +on account of the constant protection he had extended to +the simple followers of Wickcliffe.</p> + +<p>After this dire destruction the Savoy was never +restored to its former palatial proportions. The whole +property passed to the Crown, and King Henry VII. rebuilt +it, and by his will endowed it in a liberal manner as a +hospital in honour of St. John the Baptist. This hospital +was suppressed at the Reformation under Edward VI., most +of the estates with which it was endowed passing to the +great City Hospital of St. Thomas. But Queen Mary +refounded the hospital as an almshouse with a master +and other officers, and this latter foundation was finally +dissolved in 1762.</p> + +<p>Over the gate, now long destroyed, of King Henry VII.'s +foundation were these words:—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Hospitium hoc inopi turbe Savoia vocatum<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Septimus Henricus solo fundavit ab imo."<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/image_003.jpg" width="600" height="396" alt="" /> +<div class="caption"><p class='center'><span class="smcap">The Houses of Parliament.</span></p></div> +</div> + +<p>The church, which is the only existing remnant of +former splendour, was built as the chapel of Henry VII.'s<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">{5}</a></span> +Hospital, and is an interesting example of Perpendicular +architecture, with a curious and picturesque belfry. In +general design it resembles a college chapel, and the +religious services held therein are well maintained. Her +late Majesty Queen Victoria behaved with great +generosity to the church of the Savoy. In her capacity +of Duchess of Lancaster she restored the interior woodwork +and fittings, and after a destructive fire in 1864 +effected a second restoration of the entire interior of this +sacred edifice. There is now a rich coloured roof, and +appropriate seats for clergy and people. There is also +preserved a brass belonging to the year 1522 from the +grave of Thomas Halsey, Bishop of Leighlin, and Gavin +Douglas, Bishop of Dunkeld, famous in Scottish history +for his piety and learning. There is also a small figure +from Lady Dalhousie's monument, but all the other tombs +perished in the flames in 1864. The history of the +central compartment of the triptych over the font is +curious. It was painted for the Savoy Palace in the +fourteenth century, afterwards lost, and then recovered +in 1876.</p> + +<p>Amongst the famous ministers of the Savoy were +Thomas Fuller, author of the <i>Worthies</i>, and Anthony +Horneck. In the Savoy was held the famous conference +between twelve bishops and twelve Nonconformists for +the revision of the Liturgy soon after the accession of +King Charles II. In this conference Richard Baxter took +a prominent part.</p> + +<p>In this brief sketch nothing is more remarkable than +the great variety of uses to which the palace of the Savoy +has been put, as well as the gradual decay of mediæval +splendour. Still, however, the name is very familiar to +the multitudes of people who are continually passing up +and down the Strand. Yet it is a far cry to the days of +Archbishop Boniface of Savoy, and Edmund Earl of +Lancaster.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">{6}</a></span></p> + +<p><i>Bridewell</i> is situated on a low-lying strip of land +between the Thames and the Fleet, just westwards of the +south-western end of the Roman wall of London. In +early days this open space only possessed a tower for +defensive purposes, just as the famous Tower of London +guarded the eastern end of the city. Hard by was the +church of St. Bride, founded in the days of the Danes, +most likely in the reign of King Canute, and here there +was a holy well or spring. Hence arose the name of +Bridewell.</p> + +<p>In 1087, ancient records relate, King William gave +choice stones from his tower or castle, standing at the +west end of the city, to Maurice, Bishop of London, for +the repair of his cathedral church.</p> + +<p>From time to time various rooms were added to the +original structure, which seem chiefly to have been used +for some state ceremonial or judicial purpose. Thus in +the seventh year of King John, Walter de Crisping, +the Justiciar, gave judgment here in an important +lawsuit.</p> + +<p>In 1522 the whole building was repaired for the +reception of the famous Emperor Charles V., but that +distinguished Sovereign actually stayed in the Black +Friars, on the other side of the Fleet.</p> + +<p>King Henry VIII. made use of Bridewell for the trial +of his famous divorce case. Cardinal Campeggio was +President of the Court, and in the end gave judgment +in favour of Queen Catharine of Aragon. Yet, despite +the Cardinal, Henry would have nothing more to do with +Catharine, and at the same time took a dislike to Bridewell, +which was allowed to fall into decay—in fact, +nothing of the older building now remains. King +Edward VI., just before his own death in 1553, granted +the charter which converted Bridewell into a charitable +institution, and after many vicissitudes a great work is +still carried on at this establishment for the benefit of +the poor of London. In May, 1552, Dr. Ridley, Bishop<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">{7}</a></span> +of London, wrote this striking letter to Sir William +Cecil, Knight, and Secretary to the King:—</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>"Good Master Cecyl,—I must be suitor with you in our Master +Christ's cause. I beseech you be good unto him. The matter is, Sir, +that he hath been too, too long abroad, without lodging, in the streets +of London, both hungry, naked and cold. There is a large wide empty +house of the King's Majesty called Bridewell, which would wonderfully +serve to lodge Christ in, if he might find friends at Court to procure in +his cause."</p></div> + +<p>Thus the philanthropic scheme was started, and brought +to completion under the mayoralty of Alderman Sir +George Barnes.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/image_004.jpg" width="600" height="382" alt="" /> + +<p class="img_link"><a href="images/image_004_full.jpg">View larger version.</a></p> + +<div class="caption"><p class='center'><span class="smcap">A View of the Savoy Palace from the River Thames.</span></p> + +<p class='center'><i>Published by the Society of Antiquaries in 1750, +from a plan by G. Virtue.</i></p> + + +<div class="center"> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align="right"><span class="smcap">AAA</span></td><td align="left">The great building, now a barracks.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right"><span class="smcap">BB</span></td><td align="left">Prison for the Savoy, and guards.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right"><span class="smcap">CCC</span></td><td align="left">Church of St. Mary le Savoy.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right"><span class="smcap">D</span></td><td align="left">Stairs to the waterside.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right"><span class="smcap">EFG</span></td><td align="left">Churches of German Lutherans, French and German Calvinists.</td></tr> +</table></div> +</div> +</div> + +<p><i>St. James's</i> is the most important royal palace of +London. For many a long year it has been most closely +associated with our royal family, and the quaint towers +and gateway looking up St. James's Street possess an +antiquarian interest of quite an unique character. This +palace, moreover, enshrines the memory of a greater +number of famous events in the history of our land than +any other domestic building situated in London, and for +this reason is worthy of special attention.</p> + +<p>Its history is as follows:—Before the Norman +Conquest there was a hospital here dedicated to St. James, +for fourteen maiden lepers. A hospital continued to +exist throughout the middle ages, but when Henry VIII. +became King he obtained this property by an exchange, +and converted it, as Holinshed bears witness, into "a +fair mansion and park" when he was married to Anne +Boleyn. The letters "H. A." can still be traced on the +chimney-piece of the presence chamber or tapestry room, +as well as a few other memorials of those distant days. +And what days they were! Queen Anne Boleyn going +to St. James's in all the joyous splendour of a royal +bride, and how soon afterwards meeting her cruel fate at +the hands of the executioner! Henry VIII. seldom lived +at St. James's Palace, perhaps on account of the weird +reminiscences of Anne Boleyn, but it became the favourite<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">{8}</a></span> +residence of Queen Mary after her husband Philip II. +returned to Spain, and here she died in utter isolation +during the dull November days of the autumn of 1558. +Thus the old palace is first associated with the sad story +of two unhappy queens!</p> + +<p>But brighter days were coming. Prince Henry, the +eldest son of James I., settled here in 1610, and kept a +brilliant and magnificent court, attached to which were +nearly 300 salaried officials. Then in two short years +he died, November 6, 1612. Then the palace was given to +Charles, who afterwards ascended the throne in 1625, +and much liked the place as a residence. It is closely +associated with the stirring events of this romantic +monarch's career. Here Charles II., James II., and the +Princess Elizabeth were born, and here Marie de Medici, +the mother of Queen Henrietta Maria, took refuge in 1638, +and maintained a magnificent household for three years. +It is said her pension amounted to £3,000 a month! +Her residence within the royal palace increased the +unpopularity of the King, whose arbitrary treatment of +Parliament led to the ruinous Civil War. The noble +House of Stuart is ever unfortunate all down the long +page of history, and the doleful prognostications of the +Sortes Vergilianæ, sought for by the King, proved but +too true in the event.</p> + +<p>We quote six lines of Dryden's translation from the +sixth book of the <i>Æneid</i>, at the page at which the King +by chance opened the book—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Seek not to know, the ghost replied with tears,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">The sorrows of thy sons in future years.<br /></span> +<span class="i0">This youth, the blissful vision of a day,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Shall just be shewn on earth, and snatched away.<br /></span> +<span class="i2">. . . . .<br /></span> +<span class="i0">"Ah! couldst thou break through Fate's severe decree,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">A new Marcellus shall arise in thee."<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>Dr. Wellwood says Lord Falkland tried to laugh the +matter off, but the King was pensive.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">{9}</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/image_005.jpg" width="449" height="600" alt="" /> +<div class="caption"><p class='center'><span class="smcap">Portion of an exact Survey of the Streets, Lanes, and Churches.</span></p> + +<p class='center'><i>Comprehended by the order and directions of the Right Honourable the Lord Mayor +10th December, 1666.</i></p></div> +</div> + +<p>The fortunes of war were against this very attractive +but weak monarch, who was actually brought as a +prisoner of the Parliament from Windsor Castle to his +own Palace of St. James, there to await his trial on a +charge of high treason in Westminster Hall!</p> + +<p>Certain of his own subjects presumed to pass sentence +of death upon their own Sovereign, and have become +known to history as the regicides. Very pathetic is the +story of the scenes which took place at St. James's on +Sunday, January 28, 1649. A strong guard of parliamentary +troops escorted King Charles from Whitehall to +St. James's, and Juxon, the faithful Bishop of London, +preached his last sermon to his beloved Sovereign from +the words, "In the day when God shall judge the secrets +of men by Jesus Christ, according to my Gospel." His +Majesty then received the Sacrament, and spent much +time in private devotion. On the morrow he bade farewell +to his dear children the Duke of Gloucester and the +Princess Elizabeth, praying them to forgive his enemies, +and not to grieve, for he was about to die a glorious +death for the maintenance of the laws and liberties of +the land and the true Protestant religion. Then he +took the little Duke of Gloucester on his knees, saying, +"Sweetheart, now they will cut off thy father's head," and +the young prince looked very earnestly and steadfastly +at the King, who bade him be loyal to his brothers +Charles and James, and all the ancient family of Stuart. +And thus they parted.</p> + +<p>Afterwards His Majesty was taken from St. James's +to the scaffold at Whitehall. There was enacted the +most tragic scene connected with the entire history of +the Royal Family of England. At the hands of Jacobite +writers the highly-coloured narrative is like to induce +tears of grief, but the Puritans love to dwell on the +King's weaknesses and faults. Yet everyone must needs +acknowledge the calm nobility and unwavering courage +of the King's bearing and conduct.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">{10}</a></span></p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"He nothing common did or mean<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Upon that memorable scene,<br /></span> +<span class="i2">But with his keener eye<br /></span> +<span class="i2">The axe's edge did try;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Nor called the gods with vulgar spite<br /></span> +<span class="i0">To vindicate his helpless right,<br /></span> +<span class="i2">But bowed his comely head<br /></span> +<span class="i2">Down, as upon a bed."<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>The great German historian Leopold von Ranke is +rightly regarded as the best and most impartial authority +on the history of Europe in the seventeenth century. This +is what he says on the martyrdom of Charles I.:—</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>"The scaffold was erected on the spot where the kings were wont to +show themselves to the people after their coronation. Standing beside +the block at which he was to die, he was allowed once more to speak +in public. He said that the war and its horrors were unjustly laid to his +charge.... If at last he had been willing to give way to arbitrary +power, and the change of the laws by the sword, he would not have +been in this position: he was dying as the martyr of the people, passing +from a perishable kingdom to an imperishable. He died in the faith of +the Church of England, as he had received it from his father. Then +bending to the block, he himself gave the sign for the axe to fall upon +his neck. A moment, and the severed head was shown to the people, +with the words: 'This is the head of a traitor.' All public places, the +crossings of the streets, especially the entrances of the city, were occupied +by soldiery on foot and on horseback. An incalculable multitude had, +however, streamed to the spot. Of the King's words they heard nothing, +but they were aware of their purport through the cautious and guarded +yet positive language of their preachers. When they saw the severed +head, they broke into a cry, universal and involuntary, in which the feelings +of guilt and weakness were blended with terror—a sort of voice of +nature, whose terrible impression those who heard it were never able to +shake off."</p></div> + +<p>These weighty words of Ranke are well worth quoting, +as well as the conclusion of the section of his great +book in which he sums up his estimate of Charles's +claim to the title of martyr:</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>"There was certainly something of a martyr in him, if the man can +be so called who values his own life less than the cause for which he is +fighting, and in perishing himself saves it for the future."<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">{11}</a></span></p></div> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/image_006.jpg" width="600" height="381" alt="" /> +<div class="caption"><p class='center'><span class="smcap">The Prospect of Bridewell.</span></p> + +<p class='center'><i>Published according to Act of Parliament, 1755, for Stow's Survey.</i></p></div> +</div> + +<p>King Charles I., then, is fairly entitled to be called a +martyr in the calm and unimpassioned judgment of the +greatest historian of modern times in the learned Empire +of Germany, who tests the royal claim by a clear and +concise definition, framed without any regard to the +passionate political feeling which distracted England +in the days of the Stuarts.</p> + +<p>And it was in the Palace of St. James that Charles I. +passed the last terrible days of his earthly life.</p> + +<p>On the Restoration, King Charles II. resided at +Whitehall, and gave St. James's to his brother James, +Duke of York. Here Queen Mary II. was born, and +here she was married to William of Orange late in the +evening on November 4, 1677. Here also Anne Hyde, +Duchess of York, died in 1671, having lived many years +more or less in seclusion in the old palace.</p> + +<p>James afterwards married Mary of Modena as his +second wife, and here was born, on June 10, 1688, +Prince James Edward, better known as the Old Pretender, +whose long life was spent in wandering and exile, in +futile attempts to gain the Crown, in unsuccessful +schemes and ruinous plots, until he and his children +found rest within the peaceful walls of Rome.</p> + +<p>Directly after he landed in England, King William III. +came to St. James's, and resided here from time to time +during his possession of the Crown, only towards the +end of his reign allowing the Princess Anne to reside +in this palace, where she first heard of King William's +death. The bearer of the sad news was Dr. Burnet, +Bishop of Salisbury.</p> + +<p>Immediately on his arrival in England, George I., +Elector of Hanover, came straight to St. James's just +as King William III. had done. In his <i>Reminiscences</i>, +Walpole gives this quaint anecdote:—</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>"This is a strange country," remarked the King. "The first morning +after my arrival at St. James's, I looked out of the window, and saw a +park with walks and a canal, which they told me were mine. The next<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">{12}</a></span> +day Lord Chetwynd, the ranger of my park, sent me a fine brace of +carp out of my canal: and I was told I must give five guineas to Lord +Chetwynd's servant for bringing me my own carp, out of my own canal, +in my own park."</p></div> + +<p>Many things seem to have surprised King George I. +in his English dominions, and he really preferred +Hanover, where he died in 1725.</p> + +<p>George II. resided at St. James's when Prince of +Wales, and here his beloved wife, Queen Caroline of +Anspach, died on November 20, 1737. Four years +previously her daughter Anne had here been married to +the Prince of Orange. It now became customary to +assign apartments to younger children of the Sovereign +in various parts of the palace, which thus practically +ceased to be in the King's own occupation. The +state apartments are handsome, and contain many +good portraits of royal personages. The Chapel Royal +has a fine ceiling, carved and painted, erected in 1540, +and is constantly used by royalty. George III. hardly +ever missed the Sunday services when in London.</p> + +<p>Of course the original palace covered more ground +than is now the case, and included the site of Marlborough +House and some adjacent gardens, now in private ownership. +The German Chapel Royal, which now projects +into the grounds of Marlborough House, was originally +erected by Charles I. for the celebration of Roman Catholic +worship for Queen Henrietta Maria, and at the time gave +great offence to all the nobility and people of the land.</p> + +<p>"Tempora mutantur, et nos mutamur in illis." Marlborough +House was originally built by Sir Christopher +Wren for the great Duke of Marlborough, on a portion of +St. James's Park given by Queen Anne for that purpose. +Here died the Duke, and his famous Duchess Sarah. The +house was bought by the Crown for the Princess Charlotte +in 1817, and was settled on the Prince of Wales in 1850. +There are still a number of interesting pictures in the +grand salon of the victories of the Duke of Marlborough<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">{13}</a></span> +by Laguerre. The garden covers the space formerly +occupied by the Great Yard of old St. James's Palace.</p> + +<p>Altogether, it is quite clear from the above brief +account that St. James's is the most important of the +royal palaces of London, and more closely connected +than any other with the long history of English Royalty. +From the days of Henry VIII. to the present time +there has always been a close personal connection with +the reigning Sovereign of the British Empire.</p> + +<p>The Palace of <i>Whitehall</i> presents a long and strange +history. Hubert de Burgh, Earl of Kent, Chief Minister +of King Henry III., became possessed of the land by +purchase from the monks of Westminster for 140 marks +of silver and the annual tribute of a wax taper. Hubert +bequeathed the property by his will to the Black Friars +of Holborn, who sold it in 1248 to Walter de Grey, +Archbishop of York, for his Grace's town residence.</p> + +<p>When Cardinal Wolsey became possessed of the +northern archiepiscopal See, he found York House too +small for his taste, and he set to work to rebuild the +greater part of this palace on a larger and more +magnificent scale. On the completion of the works he +took up his abode here with a household of 800 +persons, and lived with more than regal splendour, +from time to time entertaining the King himself to +gorgeous banquets, followed by masked balls. At one +of these grand entertainments they say King Henry first +met Anne Boleyn. A chronicler says the Cardinal was +"sweet as summer to all that sought him."</p> + +<p>When the great Cardinal fell into disgrace, and the +Duke of Suffolk came to Whitehall to bid him resign +the Great Seal of England, his Eminence left his palace +by the privy stair and "took barge" to Putney, and +thence to Esher; and Henry VIII. at once took possession +of the vacant property, and began to erect new buildings, +a vast courtyard, tennis court, and picture gallery, and +two great gateways, all of which are now totally destroyed. +It was in this palace that he died, January 28, 1547.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">{14}</a></span></p> + +<p>During the reign of Queen Elizabeth, Whitehall was +famous for its magnificent festivities, tournaments, and +receptions of distinguished foreign princes. Especially +was this the case in 1581, when the French commissioners +came to urge the Queen's marriage with the Duke of +Anjou. Here the Queen's corpse lay in state before the +interment in March, 1603. James I. likewise entertained +right royally at Whitehall, and here the Princess Elizabeth +was married to the Elector Palatine on February 14, 1613. +King James also employed that distinguished architect +Inigo Jones to build the beautiful Banqueting House, +which is all that now remains of Whitehall Palace, and +is one of the finest architectural fragments in London. +The proportions are most elegant, and the style perfect. +Used as a chapel till 1890, it is now the United Service +Museum, while the great painter Rubens decorated the +ceiling for Charles I. in 1635.</p> + +<p>The whole plan of Inigo Jones remained unfinished, +but Charles I. lived in regal splendour in the palace, +entertaining on the most liberal scale, and forming the +famous collection of pictures dispersed by the Parliament. +Here it was that the masque of Comus was acted before +the King, and other masques from time to time. After +Charles's martyrdom, Oliver Cromwell came to live at +Whitehall, and died there September 3, 1658. On his +restoration, in May, 1660, King Charles II. returned to +Whitehall, and kept his court there in great splendour. +Balls rather than masques were now the fashion, and Pepys +and Evelyn have preserved full descriptions of these elegant +and luxurious festivities, and all the gaiety, frivolity, +and dissoluteness connected with them, and the manner +of life at Charles's court. The King died in the palace +on February 6, 1685, and was succeeded by his austere +brother James, who, during his brief reign, set up a Roman +Catholic chapel within the precincts of the royal habitation, +from which he fled to France in 1688.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/image_007.jpg" width="600" height="403" alt="" /> +<div class="caption"><p class='center'><span class="smcap">The Palace of Whitehall.</span></p></div> +</div> + +<p>King William III. preferred other places of residence,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">{15}</a></span> +and two fires—one in 1691, the other in 1698—destroyed +the greater part of Whitehall, which was never rebuilt.</p> + +<p><i>Buckingham</i> Palace is now the principal residence in +London of His Majesty King Edward VII. Though a +fine pile of building it is hardly worthy of its position +as the town residence of the mighty Sovereign of the +greatest Empire of the world, situated in the largest city +on the face of the globe.</p> + +<p>King George III. purchased Buckingham Palace in 1761 +from Sir Charles Sheffield for £21,000, and in 1775 it was +settled upon Queen Charlotte. In the reign of George IV. +it was rebuilt from designs by Nash; and in 1846, during +the reign of Queen Victoria, the imposing eastern façade +was erected from designs by Blore. The length is 360 +feet, and the general effect is striking, though the architectural +details are of little merit. In fact, it is a +discredit to the nation that there is no London palace +for the Sovereign which is worthy of comparison with +the Royal Palace at Madrid, or the Papal Palace in Rome, +though the reason for this peculiar fact is fully set forth +in the historical sketch of the royal palaces already +given. King Edward VII. was born here in 1841, and +here drawing-rooms and levées are usually held. The +white marble staircase is fine, and there are glorious +portraits of Charles I. and Queen Henrietta Maria by +Van Dyck, as well as Queen Victoria and the Prince +Consort by Winterhalter. There is also a full-length +portrait of George IV. by Lawrence in the State dining-room.</p> + + +<p>In the private apartments there are many interesting +royal portraits, as well as a collection of presents from +foreign princes. There is a lake of five acres in the +gardens, and the whole estate comprises about fifty acres. +There is a curious pavilion adorned with cleverly-painted +scenes from Comus by famous English artists. The view +from the east over St. James's Park towards the India +Office is picturesque, and remarkably countrified for the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">{16}</a></span> +heart of a great city. The lake in this park is certainly +very pretty, and well stocked with various water-fowl. +The Horse Guards, Admiralty, and other public offices +at the eastern extremity of this park occupy the old site +of the western side of the Palace of Whitehall.</p> + +<p><i>Kensington</i> Palace was the favourite abode of King +William III. He purchased the property from the Earl +of Nottingham, whose father had been Lord Chancellor, +and employed Sir Christopher Wren to add a storey to +the old house, and built anew the present south façade. +Throughout his reign he spent much money in improving +the place, and here his wife, Queen Mary II., died on +December 28, 1694. In the same palace King William +himself breathed his last breath on March 8, 1702.</p> + +<p>Queen Anne lived principally at St. James's, the +natural residence for the Sovereigns of Great Britain; +but she took much interest in the proper upkeep of +Kensington, and it was here that her husband died +on October 20, 1708, and herself on August 1, 1714. +Shortly before, she had placed the treasurer's wand in +the hands of the Duke of Shrewsbury, saying, "For +God's sake use it for the good of my people," +and all the acts of her prosperous reign point to the real +validity of the popular title given by common consent—the +good Queen Anne.</p> + +<p>She planted the trees on "Queen Anne's Mount," +and gave gorgeous fêtes in the Royal Gardens, whose +woodland scenery possesses a peculiar charm all its own. +The noble groves and avenues of elm trees recall +St. Cloud and St. Germain in the neighbourhood of Paris, +and are quite exceptionally fine. Thus Matthew Arnold +wrote:—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"In this lone open glade I lie,<br /></span> +<span class="i2">Screened by deep boughs on either hand;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And at its end, to stay the eye,<br /></span> +<span class="i2">Those black crowned, red-boled pine trees stand."<br /></span><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">{17}</a></span> +</div></div> + + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/image_008.jpg" width="392" height="600" alt="" /> +<div class="caption"><p class='center'><span class="smcap">St. James's Palace.</span></p></div> +</div> + +<p>And Chateaubriand declares:—</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>"C'est dans ce parc de Kensington que j'ai médité l'Essai historique: +que, relisant le journal de mes courses d'outre mer, j'en ai tiré les amours +d'Atala."</p></div> + +<p>And Haydon says:—</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>"Here are some of the most poetical bits of tree and stump, and +sunny brown and green glens and tawny earth."</p></div> + +<p>George II. died here very suddenly on October 25, 1760, +but the Sovereigns of the House of Hanover chiefly made +use of the place by assigning apartments therein to their +younger children and near relatives. Here it was that +Edward Duke of Kent lived with his wife Victoria of +Saxe-Coburg, and here their only daughter, the renowned +Queen Victoria, was born, May 24, 1819, and here she +resided till her accession to the throne in 1837.</p> + +<p>Kensington Palace, then, is chiefly celebrated for its +associations with William III. and Queen Victoria. In +the brief account of the royal palaces here given, it will +be seen that none of the sites, with the exception of +St. James's, remained for any long period of time the +actual residence of the Sovereign, while three—Westminster, +Bridewell, and the Savoy—had passed out of +royal hands for residential purposes before the Reformation +of religion was completed. Another curious fact +relates to the origin of the title to these sites, inasmuch +as three of these estates were obtained from some +ecclesiastical corporation, as the Archbishop of York, or +the Hospital of St. James, though Buckingham Palace +was bought from Sir Charles Sheffield, and Kensington +from the Earl of Nottingham.</p> + +<p>No account of the palaces of London can be regarded +as complete which omits to mention Lambeth. For more +than 700 years the Archbishops of Canterbury have +resided at this beautiful abode, intensely interesting from +its close association with all the most stirring events in<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">{18}</a></span> +the long history of England. The estate was obtained +by Archbishop Baldwin in the year 1197 by exchange +for some lands in Kent with Glanville, Bishop of +Rochester. In Saxon times Goda, the sister of King +Edward the Confessor, had bestowed this property upon +the Bishopric of Rochester; so that it has been continuously +in the hands of the Church for near 900 +years. The fine red-brick gateway with white stone +dressings, standing close to the tower of Lambeth Church, +is very imposing as seen from the road, and was built by +Archbishop Cardinal Moreton in 1490. In the Middle +Ages it was the custom to give a farthing loaf twice a +week to the poor of London at this gateway, and as many +as 4,000 were accustomed to partake of the archiepiscopal +gift. Within the gateway is the outer courtyard of the +palace, and at the further end, towards the river Thames, +rises the picturesque Lollard's tower, built between 1434 +and 1445 by that famous ecclesiastical statesman +Archbishop Chicheley, founder of All Souls' College, +Oxford. The quaint winding staircase, made of rough +slabs of unplaned oak, is exactly as it was in Chicheley's +time. In this tower is the famous chamber, entirely of +oaken boards, called the Lollards' prison. It is 13 feet +long, 12 feet broad, and 8 feet high, and eight iron rings +remain to which prisoners were fastened. The door has +a lock of wood, fastened with pegs of wood, and may be +a relic of the older palace of Archbishop Sudbury. On +the south side of the outer court stands the hall built +by Archbishop Juxon during the opening years of +Charles II.'s reign, with a fine timber roof, and Juxon's +arms over the door leading into the palace. This Jacobean +hall is now used as the library, and contains many +precious manuscripts of priceless value, including the +<i>Dictyes and Sayings of the Philosophers</i>, translated by +Lord Rivers, in which is found a miniature illumination +of the Earl presenting Caxton on his knees to Edward IV., +who is supported by Elizabeth Woodville and her son<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">{19}</a></span> +Edward V. This manuscript contains the only known +portrait of the latter monarch.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/image_009.jpg" width="600" height="378" alt="" /> +<div class="caption"><p class='center'><span class="smcap">St. James's Palace, from Pall Mall and from the Park.</span></p></div> +</div> + +<p>An earlier hall had been built on the same site by +Archbishop Boniface in 1244.</p> + +<p>From the library we pass by a flight of stairs to the +guard room, now used as the dining hall. The chief +feature is the excellent series of oil portraits of the +occupants of the primatial See of Canterbury, beginning +in the year 1504. The mere mention of the principal +names recalls prominent events in our national history.</p> + +<p>There is Warham painted by Holbein. He was also +Lord Chancellor, and the last of the mediæval episcopate. +There is Cranmer, burnt at Oxford, March 21, 1555. +There is Cardinal Pole, the cousin and favourite of Queen +Mary. There is Matthew Parker, the friend of Queen +Elizabeth, well skilled in learning and a great collector +of manuscripts, now for the most part in the library of +Corpus Christi College, Cambridge. There is William +Laud, painted by Van Dyck, the favourite Counsellor and +Adviser of Charles I. At the age of 71 he was beheaded +by order of the House of Commons—an act of vengeance, +not of justice. There is William Juxon, who stood by +Charles I. on the scaffold, and heard the ill-fated King +utter his last word on earth, "Remember." But we +cannot even briefly recount all the famous portraits to be +found at Lambeth. The above selection must suffice.</p> + +<p>The chapel, also, is a building of singular interest. +Beneath is an ancient crypt said to have been erected by +Archbishop Herbert Fitzwalter, while the chapel itself +was built by Archbishop Boniface of Savoy between 1249 +and 1270. The lancet windows are elegant, and were +filled with stained glass by Archbishop Laud, all of which +was duly broken to pieces during the Commonwealth. +The supposed Popish character of this glass was made an +article of impeachment against Laud at the trial at which +he was sentenced to death. Here the majority of the +archbishops have been consecrated since the reign of King<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">{20}</a></span> +Henry III. Archbishop Parker was both consecrated +and also buried in the chapel, but his tomb was desecrated +and his bones scattered by Scot and Hardyng, who +possessed the palace under Oliver Cromwell. On the +restoration they were re-interred by Sir William Dugdale. +At the west end is a beautiful Gothic confessional, high +up on the wall, erected by Archbishop Chicheley. Archbishop +Laud presented the screen, and Archbishop Tait +restored the whole of this sacred edifice, which measures +12 feet by 25 feet. Formerly the archbishops lived in +great state. Thus, Cranmer's household comprised a +treasurer, comptroller, steward, garnator, clerk of the +kitchen, caterer, clerk of the spicery, yeoman of the +ewery, bakers, pantlers, yeoman of the horse, yeoman +ushers, besides numerous other less important officials.</p> + +<p>Cardinal Pole possessed a patent from Queen Mary, +authorising a household of 100 servants. The modern +part of the palace was built by Archbishop Howley in +the Tudor style. He held the See from 1828 to 1848, +and was the last prelate to maintain the archiepiscopal +state of the olden time.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">{21}</a></span></p> +</div> + + +<hr class="chap" /> +<div class="chapter"> +<h2><a name="ELIZABETHAN_LONDON" id="ELIZABETHAN_LONDON">ELIZABETHAN LONDON</a></h2> + +<p class='p3'><span class="smcap">By T. Fairman Ordish, F.S.A.</span></p> + + +<div> +<img class="drop-cap" src="images/drop-t.png" width="100" height="118" alt="" /> +</div> + +<p class="drop-cap">The leading feature of Elizabethan London was +that it was a great port. William Camden, +writing in his <i>Britannia</i>, remarked that the +Thames, by its safe and deep channel, was +able to entertain the greatest ships in existence, daily +bringing in so great riches from all parts "that it +striveth at this day with the Mart-townes of Christendome +for the second prise, and affoordeth a most sure and +beautiful Roade for shipping" (Holland's translation). +Below the great bridge, one of the wonders of Europe, +we see this shipping crowding the river in the maps +and views of London belonging to the reign of Queen +Elizabeth. The Tower and the bridge were the city's +defences against attack by water. Near the Tower was +the Custom House, where peaceful commerce paid its +dues; and between the Custom House and the bridge +was the great wharf of Billingsgate, where goods were +landed for distribution. Near the centre of the bridge +was a drawbridge, which admitted vessels to another +great wharf, Queenhithe, at a point midway between +London Bridge and Blackfriars. Between the bridge +and Queenhithe was the Steelyard, the domain of the +merchants of the Hanseatic League. Along the river +front were numerous other wharves, where barges and +lighters unloaded goods which they brought from the +ships in the road, or from the upper reaches of the +Thames. For the river was the great highway of London. +It answered the needs of commerce, and it furnished the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">{22}</a></span> +chief means of transit. The passenger traffic of +Elizabethan London was carried on principally by means +of rowing-boats. A passenger landed at the point +nearest to his destination, and then walked; or a servant +waited for him with a saddle-horse. The streets were too +narrow for coaches, except in two or three main arteries.</p> + +<p>The characteristic of present-day London, at which +all foreigners most marvel, is the amount of traffic in +the streets. In Elizabethan London this characteristic +existed in the chief highway—the Thames. The +passenger-boats were generally described as "wherries," +and they were likened by Elizabethan travellers to the +gondolas of Venice; for instance, by Coryat, in his +<i>Crudities</i>, who thought the playhouses of Venice very +beggarly compared with those of London, but admired +the gondoliers, because they were "altogether as swift +as our rowers about London." The maps of the period +reveal the extraordinary number of "stairs" for landing +passengers along both banks of the river, besides the +numerous wharves for goods. John Stow, the author of +the <i>Survey of London</i>, published first in 1598, and again +in a second edition in 1603, describes the traffic on the +river. "By the Thames," he says, "all kinds of +merchandise be easily conveyed to London, the principal +storehouse and staple of all commodities within this +realm. So that, omitting to speak of great ships and +other vessels of burthen, there pertaineth to the cities +of London, Westminster, and borough of Southwark, +above the number, as is supposed, of 2,000 wherries and +other small boats, whereby 3,000 poor men at the least +be set on work and maintained." Many of these +watermen were old sailors, who had sailed and fought +under Drake. The Armada deliverance was recalled by +Drake's ship, which lay in the river below the bridge. +The voyage of the Earl of Essex to Spain, the +expeditions to Ireland and to the Low Countries, formed +the staple of the gossip of these old sailors who found<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">{23}</a></span> +employment in the chief means of locomotion in +Elizabethan London.</p> + +<p>There was only the single bridge, but there were +several ferries. The principal ferry was from Blackfriars +and the Fleet river to a point opposite on the Surrey +side, called Paris Garden stairs—nearly in a line with +the present Blackfriars Bridge. At Westminster was +another, from the Horseferry Road to a point a little west +of Lambeth Palace—almost in the line of the present +Lambeth Bridge. The river was fordable at low tide +at this point; horses crossed here—whence the name +Horseferry—and possibly other cattle, when the tide was +unusually low.</p> + +<p>The sea is the home of piety. Coast towns, ports, +and havens, reached after voyages of peril, are invariably +notable for their places of worship, and for customs +which speak touchingly—like the blessing of fishermen's +nets, for instance—of lives spent in uncertainty and +danger. Thus, the leading characteristic of Elizabethan +London being its association with the sea and its +dependence on the river, we find that its next most +striking characteristic was the extraordinary number of +churches it contained. The great cathedral predominated +more pronouncedly than its modern successor. From the +hill on which it was based it reared its vast bulk; its +great spire ascended the heavens, and the multitude of +church towers and spires and belfries throughout the +city seemed to follow it. The houses were small, the +streets were narrow; but to envisage the city from the +river, or from the Surrey side, was to have the eye +led upwards from point to point to the summit of +St. Paul's. The dignity and piety of London were thus +expressed, in contradiction to human foibles and failings +so conspicuous in Elizabethan drama. The spire of +St. Paul's was destroyed by lightning early in the reign +of Elizabeth; and the historian may see much significance +in the fact that it was not rebuilt, even in thanksgiving<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">{24}</a></span> +and praise for the deliverance from the Great Armada. +The piety of London dwindled until it flamed forth +anew in the time of the Puritan revolt.</p> + +<p>The bridge was carried on nineteen arches. It had +a defensive gate at the Southwark end, and another +gateway at the northern end. In the centre was a +beautiful chapel, dedicated to Thomas à Becket, and +known as St. Thomas of the Bridge. Houses were built +on the bridge, mostly shops with overhanging signs, +as in the streets of the city. Booksellers and +haberdashers predominated, but other trades were carried +on also. After the chapel, the most conspicuous feature +of the bridge was "Nonesuch House," so called to express +the wonder that it was constructed in Holland entirely +of wood, brought over the water piece by piece, and +put together on the bridge by dovetailing and pegs, +without the use of a single metal nail. Adjoining the +northern gateway was an engine for raising water by +means of a great wheel operated by the tide. Near +the Southwark end were corn-mills, worked on the same +principle, below the last two arches of the bridge. The +gateway at the Southwark end, so well shown in Visscher's +view of London, was finished in 1579, and the traitors' +heads, which formerly surmounted a tower by the +drawbridge, were transferred to it. Travellers from the +south received this grim salutation as they approached +the bridge, which led into the city; and when they +glanced across the river, the Tower frowned upon them, +and the Traitors' Gateway, like teeth in an open mouth, +deepened the effect of warning and menace.</p> + +<p>But these terrors loomed darkling in the background +for the most part. They belonged rather to the time +when the sovereign's palaces at Westminster and at the +Tower seemed to hold London in a grip. The palace +at Westminster now languished in desuetude; the Tower +was a State prison, and—with some ironical intent, +perhaps—also the abode of the royal beasts, lions,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">{25}</a></span> +tigers, leopards, and other captives. The Queen passed +in her royal barge down the river with ceremonious +pageantry from her palace of Whitehall; the drawbridge +raised, the floating court passed the Tower as with lofty +indifference on its way to "Placentia," Her Majesty's +palace at Greenwich. Out of the silence of history a +record speaks like a voice, and tells us that here, in +1594, Shakespeare and his fellows performed at least +two comedies or interludes before Her Majesty, and we +know even the amounts that were paid them for their +services.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/image_011.jpg" width="600" height="336" alt="" /> + +<p class="img_link"><a href="images/image_011_full.jpg">View larger version.</a></p> + +<div class="caption"><p class='center'><span class="smcap">Plan of London in the time of Queen Elizabeth (1563).</span></p></div> +</div> + +<p>In the <i>Survey</i> of John Stow we have three separable +elements: the archæology and history of London, Stow's +youthful recollections of London in the time of Henry +the Eighth, and Stow's description of the great change +which came over London after the dissolution of the +religious houses, and continued in process throughout +his lifetime. The mediæval conditions were not remote. +He could remember when London was clearly defined +by the wall, like a girdle, of which the Tower was the +knot. No heroic change had befallen; the wall had +not been cast down into its accompanying fosse to form +a ring-street, as was done when Vienna was transformed +from the mediæval state. London had simply filled +up the ditch with its refuse; its buildings had simply +swarmed over the wall and across the dike; shapeless +and haphazard suburbs had grown up, till the surrounding +villages became connected with the city. Even more +grievous, in the estimation of Stow, was the change which +he had witnessed within the city itself. The feudal lords +had departed, and built themselves mansions outside +the city. The precincts of the dissolved religious +establishments had been converted into residential +quarters, and a large proportion of the old monastic +gardens had been built upon. The outlines of society had +become blurred. Formerly, the noble, the priest, and +the citizen were the defined social strata. Around each<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">{26}</a></span> +of these was grouped the rest of the social units in +positions of dependence. A new type of denizen had +arisen, belonging to none of the old categories—the +typical Elizabethan Londoner.</p> + +<p>The outward aspect of Elizabethan London reflected +this social change. On the south of the city, along the +line of Thames Street, the wall had entirely disappeared. +On the east and west it was in decay, and was becoming +absorbed in fresh buildings. Only on the north side of +the city, where it had been re-edified as late as 1474, did +the wall suggest its uses for defence. In the map of +Agas, executed early in the reign of Elizabeth, this +portion of the wall, with its defensive towers and bastions, +appears singularly well preserved. Thus the condition of +the wall suggested the passing of the old and the coming +of the new order. The gates which formerly defended +the city, where the chief roadways pierced the wall, +still remained as monuments, and they were admirably +adapted to the purpose of civic pageantry and ceremonial +shows. Indeed, the gateway on the Oxford road was +rebuilt in 1586, and called Newgate, "from the newness +thereof," and it was the "fairest" of all the gates of +London. It is reckoned that this was the year that +Shakespeare came to London from Stratford-on-Avon; +and the assumption is generally allowed that he entered +the city by Newgate, which would be his direct road. +A new gate, of an artistic and ornamental character, +set in the ancient wall, was a sign and a symbol of +the new conditions in London, of which Shakespeare +himself was destined to become the chief result.</p> + +<hr class="tb" /> + + +<p>With the characteristics of London as a great mart +and port is included the foreign elements in its +population. In Lombard Street the merchants of +Lombardy from early mediæval times had performed +the operations of banking and foreign exchange; and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">{27}</a></span> +around them were assembled the English merchants of +all qualities and degrees. Business was conducted in +the open street, and merchants merely adjourned into +the adjoining houses to seal their bonds and make their +formal settlements. Henry VIII. tried to induce the +city to make use of the great building of Leadenhall +for this purpose; but the innovation was resisted, and +Lombard Street continued to be the burse of London +till long after the accession of Elizabeth. The name +of Galley Key remained in Tower Street ward to mark +the spot on the river bank "where the galleys of +Italy and other parts did discharge their wines and +merchandises brought to this city." The men of the +galleys lived as a colony by themselves in Mincing Lane; +the street leading to their purlieus was called, +indifferently, Galley Row and Petit Wales. Here was +a great house, the official territorium of the Principality. +The original of Shakespeare's "Fluellen" may very +possibly have been a denizen of this quarter.</p> + +<p>Above the bridge, in Thames Street, was the +territorium of the Hanse merchants, alluded to by Stow +as "the merchants of Almaine," and by Camden as +"the Easterlings or Dutch merchants of the Steelyard." +Their position in the city was one of great importance: +the export trade of the country in woollen goods was +chiefly in their hands, and they had their own Guildhall +in Upper Thames Street, called the <i>Gilda Teutonicorum</i>. +The special privileges accorded to this foreign +commercial community carried the obligation to maintain +Bishopsgate in repair, and "to defend it at all times +of danger and extremity." When the house of the +Augustine Friars, Old Broad Street, was dissolved, and +its extensive gardens became cut up and built upon, the +Dutch colony settled there in residence, and the church +of Austin Friars was specially assigned to them by +Edward VI. Towards the end of the reign of Elizabeth +the privileges of the Hanse merchants were revoked,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">{28}</a></span> +and their guildhall was confiscated to the use of the +navy. But the Dutch element continued as a part of +the commercial life of the city, and the church of Austin +Friars is still the "church of the Dutch nation in London."</p> + +<p>West of the Steelyard was the Vintry. Here the +merchants of Bordeaux had been licensed to build their +warehouses of stone, at the rear of a great wharf, on +which were erected cranes for unloading the lighters +and other boats which brought the casks from the ships +below bridge. The trade of these foreign merchants +gave the name of Vintry Ward to one of the divisions +of the city. In Bishopsgate Ward, near the church of +St. Botolph, was a French colony, their purlieus forming +a quadrant, called Petty France.</p> + +<p>Elizabethan London was more cosmopolitan than +many European capitals. In Lombard Street the +merchants of Germany, France, and Italy were +conspicuously differentiated by the varieties of costume. +On the site of the present Royal Exchange, Sir Thomas +Gresham laid the first stone of his great Bourse in 1566; +the design was in imitation of the Bourse at Antwerp; +the materials of its construction were imported from +Flanders; the architect and builder was a Fleming, +named Henryke. The opening of this building by Queen +Elizabeth in state in January, 1571, when Her Majesty +commanded it to be proclaimed by herald and trumpet +that the Bourse should be called The Royal Exchange +from that time henceforth, is a familiar story, because +it is, in fact, one of the most striking and significant +events in the history of London. The trumpet of that +herald, on January 23rd, 1571, announced a new era.</p> + + +<p>The building was a quadrangle, enclosing an open +space. The sides formed a cloister or sheltered walk; +above this was a corridor, or walk, called "the pawn," +with stalls or shops, like the Burlington Arcade of the +present day; above this again was a tier of rooms. +The great bell-tower stood on the Cornhill front; the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">{29}</a></span> +bell was rung at noon and at six in the evening. On +the north side, looking towards St. Margaret's, Lothbury, +was a tall Corinthian column. Both tower and column +were surmounted by a grasshopper—the Gresham crest. +The inscription on the façade of the building was in +French, German, and Italian. The motley scene of +Lombard Street had been transferred to the Royal +Exchange. The merchants of Amsterdam, of Antwerp, +of Hamburg, of Paris, of Bordeaux, of Venice and +Vienna, distinguishable to the eye by the dress of the +nations they represented, and to the ear by the differences +of language, conducted their exchanges with English +merchants, and with each other, in this replica of the +Bourse of Antwerp, the rialto of Elizabethan London.<a name="FNanchor_1_1" id="FNanchor_1_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_1_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a></p> + +<p>Cheapside was called West Cheap in Elizabethan +London, in contradistinction to East Cheap, famous for +ever as the scene of the humours of "Dame Quickly" +and "Falstaff." The change in West Cheap since the +mediæval period was chiefly at the eastern end, on the +north side. Here a large space opposite the church of +St. Mary-le-Bow was formerly kept clear of building, +although booths and stalls for market purposes occupied +the ground temporarily. The space was otherwise +reserved for the mediæval jousts, tournaments, and other +civic pageantry. The site of Mercers' Hall was occupied +by the <i>Militia Hospitalis</i>, called, after Thomas à Becket, +St. Thomas of Acon. After the Dissolution this +establishment was granted by Henry to the Mercers' +Company, who adapted the existing buildings to the +purposes of their hall, one of the principal features of +Cheap in Elizabethan times. The district eastward of +Mercers' Hall had become filled up with building, and +the making of Cheap as a thoroughfare was now<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">{30}</a></span> +complete. The original road westward was from the +top of New Fish Street, by East Cheap, Candlewick +or Cannon Street, past London Stone (probably the +Roman <i>Milliarium</i>), along Budge Row and Watling +Street, to the site of St. Paul's, where it is conjectured +a temple of Diana stood in Roman times. But Cheap, +or West Cheap, was the chief traffic way westward in +Elizabethan London; it was filled with shops and +warehouses, a thriving business centre, the pride of the +city. The name of "Cheap" was derived from the +market, and several of the streets leading into it yet +bear names which in Elizabethan times were descriptive +of the trades there carried on. Thus the Poultry was +the poulterers' market; ironmongers had their shops in +Ironmonger Lane, as formerly they had their stalls in +the same area; in Milk Street were the dairies; and +towards the west end of Cheap was Bread Street, the +market of the bakers, and Friday Street, where +fishmongers predominated. Lying between these two +streets, with frontages in both, was the Mermaid Tavern, +the chief resort of "the breed of excellent and choice +wits," included by Camden among the glories of +Elizabethan London. Stow does not refer to the +Mermaid by name, but possibly he had it in mind when +he wrote the following passage: "Bread Street, so called +of bread sold there, as I said, is now wholly inhabited +by rich merchants; and divers fair inns be there, for +good receipt of carriers and other travellers to the +city." The trades kept themselves in their special +localities, although they did not always give the name +to the street they occupied. Thus, to return to the +eastern end of Cheap, there was Bucklersbury, where +the pepperers or grocers were located, having given up +their former quarters in Sopars' Lane to the cordwainers +and curriers. With the grocers were mingled apothecaries +and herbalists; and hence the protest of Falstaff, in +the <i>Merry Wives of Windsor</i>, that he was not "like a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">{31}</a></span> +many of these lisping hawthorn-buds, that come like +women in men's apparel, and smell like Bucklesbury in +simple time." In the midst of Cheap, at a point between +Mercers' Hall and Old Jewry, opposite the end of +Bucklersbury, was the water conduit—in the words of +Stow, "The great conduit of sweet water, conveyed +by pipes of lead underground from Paddington for +the service of this city, castellated with stone, and +cisterned in lead." Around the conduit stood the great +jars used by the water-carriers to convey the water to +the houses. The water-carrier, as a type of Elizabethan +London, is preserved by Ben Jonson in the character +of Cob in <i>Every Man in his Humour</i>. Going westward +from the Conduit, another object stood out in the +roadway—the Standard, a tall pillar at which the public +executions of the city jurisdiction took place. Still +further west, in the midst of Cheap, stood the Eleanor +Cross, one of the most beautiful monuments in London +at this time.</p> + +<p>The Guildhall stood where it stands to-day, accessible +from Cheap by Ironmonger Lane and St. Lawrence Lane. +Only the walls and the crypt of the original building +remain; but the features of this great civic establishment, +as well as its sumptuous character and beautiful +adornments, were practically the same in the days of +Gresham as at the present time. Stow describes the +stately porch entering the great hall, the paving of +Purbeck marble, the coloured glass windows, and, alas! +the library which had been "borrowed" by the Protector +Somerset in the preceding reign. Near the Guildhall +was the church of St. Mary Aldermanbury, the +predecessor of the existing edifice. In this parish dwelt +Hemmings and Condell, "fellows" of Shakespeare—that +is to say, players of his company, whom he remembered +in his will. These men conferred a benefit on all +future ages by collecting the poet's plays, seven years +after his death, and publishing them in that folio edition<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">{32}</a></span> +which is one of the most treasured volumes in the +world. In the churchyard a monument to their +memory was erected in 1896. It is surmounted by a bust +of the poet, who looks forth serenely greeting the +passer-by from beneath the shade of trees in this quiet +old churchyard in modern London.</p> + +<p>To return to Cheap, it remains to speak of a feature +which attracted Queen Elizabeth, and was, indeed, one +of the marvels of London. Here are the <i>ipsissima verba</i> +of Stow's contemporary description:</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>"Next to be noted, the most beautiful frame of fair houses and shops that +be within the walls of London, or elsewhere in England, commonly called +Goldsmiths' Row, betwixt Bread Street end and the cross in Cheap ... +the same was built by Thomas Wood, goldsmith, one of the sheriffs of London, +in the year 1491. It containeth in number ten fair dwelling-houses and +fourteen shops, all in one frame, uniformly built four stories high, beautified +towards the street with the Goldsmiths' arms and the likeness of woodmen, in +memory of his name, riding on monstrous beasts, all which is cast in lead, +richly painted over and gilt. These he gave to the goldsmiths, with stocks of +money, to be lent to young men having those shops. This said front was +again new painted and gilt over in the year 1594; Sir Richard Martin being +then mayor, and keeping his mayoralty in one of them."</p></div> + +<p>Beyond Goldsmiths' Row was the old Change; the +name and the street both still exist. Beyond old Change +were seven shops; then St. Augustine's Gate, leading +into St. Paul's Churchyard; and then came Paternoster +Row. Between Paternoster Row and Newgate Street +stood the Church of St. Michael-le-Querne, stretching +out into the middle of Cheap, where the statue of +Sir Robert Peel now stands. Stretching out from the +east end of the church, still further into the street, was +a water conduit, which supplied all the neighbourhood +hereabout, called "The Little Conduit," not because it +was little, but to distinguish it from the great conduit +at the other end of Cheap.</p> + +<hr class="tb" /> + +<p>We are concerned in this place not with the history of +old St. Paul's, nor with the technique of its architecture,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">{33}</a></span> +but with the great cathedral as a religious and social +institution, the centre of Elizabethan London. Here the +streams of life were gathered, and hence they radiated. +It was the official place of worship of the Corporation; +the merchants of the city followed. The monarch on +special occasions attended the services; the nobility +followed the royal example. The typical Elizabethan +made the middle aisle his promenade, where he displayed +the finery of his attire and the elegance of his deportment. +The satirists found a grand opportunity in the humours +of Paul's Walk; but the effect of the cathedral is not +to be derived from such allusions in the literature of +the time. All classes were attracted by the beautiful +organ and the anthems so exquisitely sung by the choir. +The impressive size and noble proportions of the building, +the soaring height of the nave, the mystery of the open +tower, where the ascending vision became lost in gathering +obscurity, and where the chords from the organ died +away; these spiritual associations, these appeals to the +imagination, were uplifting influences so powerful that +the vanities of Paul's Walk were negligible by +comparison. As with the gargoyle on the outer walls, +the prevailing effect was so sublime, that it was merely +heightened by this element of the grotesque.<a name="FNanchor_2_2" id="FNanchor_2_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_2_2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a></p> + +<p>The cathedral stood in the midst of a churchyard. +In the mediæval period this was enclosed by a wall. +In the reign of Elizabeth the wall still existed, but, as +Stow observes, "Now on both sides, to wit, within and +without, it be hidden with dwelling-houses." In 1561 +the great steeple was struck by lightning and destroyed +by fire, but the tower from which the spire arose remained. +The tower was 260 feet high, and the height of the spire +was the same, so that the pinnacle was 520 feet from the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">{34}</a></span> +base.<a name="FNanchor_3_3" id="FNanchor_3_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_3_3" class="fnanchor">[3]</a> Surmounting the pinnacle, in this earlier portion +of Elizabeth's reign, was a weathercock, an object of +curiosity to which Stow devotes a minute description. +In the midst of the churchyard stood Paul's Cross—"a +pulpit cross of timber, mounted upon steps of stone +and covered with lead, in which are sermons preached +every Sunday in the forenoon." Many of the monastic +features of the establishment had disappeared; others +were transformed and adapted to other uses. The +great central fabric remained, and the school flourished—"Paul's +School," in the east part of the churchyard, +endowed by Dean Colet in 1512, and rebuilt in the +later years of Elizabeth, where one hundred and +fifty-three poor men's children were given a free education +under a master, an usher, and a chaplain.</p> + +<hr class="tb" /> + +<p>Newgate Street, Cheapside, Cornhill, Leadenhall, and +Aldgate formed (as they do still) nearly a straight line, +east and west. From this line to the wall on the north, +in Plantagenet and early Tudor times, the city was largely +composed of open spaces: chiefly the domains of religious +houses; while south of the dividing line to the river the +ground was thickly built over. After the Dissolution the +transformation of the northern area began.</p> + +<p>Considerable building took place in the reign of +Edward VI.; but at the time of Elizabeth's accession the +generally open character of this area, as compared with +the more southerly part of the city, still subsisted. The +increase of population, however, due very largely to people +who flocked to London from all parts of the country, led +to rapid building, which produced the Queen's famous +proclamation to stay its further progress. To evade the +ordinance, and to meet the ever-increasing demand, large +houses were converted into tenements, and a vast number<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">{35}</a></span> +of people were thus accommodated who lived chiefly out-of-doors +and took their meals in the taverns, inns, and +ordinaries which abounded in all parts of the city. The +pressure of demand continued, and the open spaces +became gradually built over. The Queen and her +government, aghast at the incessant tide of increase, in +terror of the plague, recognised the futility of further +prohibition, and avoided communication with the city as +much as possible. At the slightest hint of plague +Her Majesty would start off on one of her Progresses, or +betake herself to Richmond, to Hampton Court, or to +Greenwich.</p> + +<p>Some of these transformations of ancient monastic +purlieus may be briefly instanced. Within Newgate was +the house and precinct of the Grey Friars. After the +Dissolution the whole precinct was presented by Henry +to the citizens of London, and here Edward VI. founded +the school for poor fatherless children, which became +famous as Christ's Hospital, "the Bluecoat school."</p> + +<p>Let a short passage from Stow describe this change +from the old order to the new:</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>"In the year 1552 began the repairing of the Greyfriars house for +the poor fatherless children; and in the month of November the +children were taken into the same, to the number of almost four +hundred. On Christmas Day, in the afternoon, while the Lord Mayor +and Aldermen rode to Paules, the children of Christ's Hospital stood from +St. Lawrence Lane end in Cheape towards Paules, all in one livery of +russet cotton, three hundred and forty in number; and in Easter next, +they were in blue at the Spittle, and so have continued ever since."</p></div> + +<p>The Greyfriars or Bluecoat school was one of the +largest buildings in London. Its demesne extended to the +city wall, in which there was a gate communicating with +the grounds of St. Bartholomew's Hospital, the famous +foundation of Rahere. The wall ran northward from the +New Gate, the ground between the school and the wall +on that side had been built over. There was a continuous +line of building along Newgate Street to St. Martin's le +Grand. The shambles or meat market occupied the centre<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">{36}</a></span> +of the street, called St. Nicholas Shambles, from a church +which had been demolished since the Reformation.</p> + +<p>From Newgate Street and the top of Cheapside to +St. Anne's Lane was formerly the territory of the Collegiate +Church and Sanctuary of St. Martin's le Grand. The +college was dismantled after the edict of dissolution, but +the sanctuary remained.</p> + +<p>Some of the collegiate buildings had been converted +into tenements, and other houses had been erected. These +were occupied by "strangers born"—<i>i.e.</i>, denizens who +were not born Londoners—although within the walls the +civic jurisdiction did not extend over this territory. +Certain trades were carried on here outside the regulated +industry of the city—<i>e.g.</i>, tailoring and lace-making. The +district became one of the resorts of the Elizabethan +ruffler; and under the ægis of the ancient right of +sanctuary a kind of Alsatia came into existence, the scene +of many exciting episodes when debtors and fugitives from +justice evaded their pursuers, and succeeded in reaching +these precincts.</p> + +<p>In Broad Street the ancient glory of the Augustine +Friars was still a memory, and much of their spacious +domain had been divided into gardens. The beautiful +church remained, but the spire was becoming ruinous from +neglect. Stow described the gardens, the gates of the +precinct, and the great house which had been built here by +William Paulet, first Marquis of Winchester, Lord +Treasurer of England, "in place of Augustine friar's house, +cloister, gardens, etc." There is an admirable irony in the +recital of Stow at this point:</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>"The friars church he pulled not down, but the west end thereof, +inclosed from the steeple and choir, was in the year 1550 granted to the +Dutch nation in London, to be their preaching place: the other part—namely, +the steeple, choir, and side aisles to the choir adjoining—he +reserved to household uses, as for stowage of corn, coal and other things; +his son and heir, Marquis of Winchester, sold the monuments of noblemen +there buried in great number, the paving stone and whatsoever (which cost +many thousands) for one hundred pounds, and in place thereof made fair<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">{37}</a></span> +stabling for horses. He caused the lead to be taken from the roofs, and +laid tile in place thereof; which exchange proved not so profitable as he +looked for, but rather to his disadvantage."</p></div> + +<p>Between Broad Street and Bishopsgate Street the space +was chiefly composed of gardens. One of the houses +fronting Bishopsgate Street was the residence of Sir +Thomas Gresham (perhaps his house in Lombard Street +was reserved for business purposes).</p> + +<p>On the opposite side of Bishopsgate Street was Crosby +Hall and the precinct of the dissolved nunnery of St. +Helen, extending towards St. Mary Axe and the church +of St. Andrew Undershaft. At the further end of St. +Mary Axe was the "Papye," a building which had been a +hospital for poor priests before the Reformation. In the +year 1598 Shakespeare was living in the St. Helen's +precinct, within the shadow of Crosby Hall, and John +Stow, in his home near the church of St. Andrew +Undershaft, had just corrected the proofs of the first edition +of his <i>Survey of London</i>. Stow tells us about Gresham's +House and about Crosby Hall. He tells us that Sir +Francis Walsingham, the Secretary of State, resided at +the Papye. He describes the church of St. Andrew +Undershaft, where his own monument may be seen at the +present day; he describes, too, the ancient church of the +nunnery of St. Helen, in which a memorial window now +commemorates Shakespeare. But he failed to mention +the fact, which has since been recovered from the +subsidy-roll in the Record Office, that William Shakespeare +was a denizen of the precinct in 1598. Had Shakespeare +built a water conduit in the neighbourhood, or endowed +an almshouse, he might have been celebrated in the pages +of John Stow.</p> + +<p>They were neighbours, and may have been acquainted. +The district had been familiar to Stow from childhood, +and he may have entertained the poet as he entertains +us in his <i>Survey</i> with recollections of the changes he +had witnessed in his long lifetime. Describing Tower Hill,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">{38}</a></span> +he recalls the abbey of nuns of the order of St. Clare, +called the Minories, and after giving the facts of its history, +proceeds:</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>"In place of this house of nuns is now built divers fair and large +storehouses for armour and habiliments of war, with divers workhouses +serving to the same purpose: there is a small parish church for inhabitants +of the close, called St. Trinities. Near adjoining to this abbey, on the +south side thereof, was sometime a farm belonging to the said nunnery; +at the which farm I, myself, in my youth, have fetched many a half-penny +worth of milk, and never had less than three ale pints for a +half-penny in the summer, nor less than one ale quart for a half-penny in +the winter, always hot from the kine, as the same was milked and +strained. One Trolop, and afterwards Goodman, were the farmers there, +and had thirty or forty kine to the pail. Goodman's son being heir to +his father's purchase, let out the ground, first for grazing of horses, and +then for garden-plots, and lived like a gentleman thereby."</p></div> + +<p>Here we have the source of the name Goodman's Fields, +a point of some interest for us; but how vastly more +interesting to have rambled with Stow in Elizabethan +London, listening to such stories of the old order which +had passed, giving place to the new!</p> + +<p>We have strayed outside the wall, but not far. This +road between Aldgate and the Postern Gate by the Tower, +running parallel with the wall, is called the Minories, +after the nunnery. Setting our faces towards Aldgate, to +retrace our steps, we have the store-houses for armour and +habiliments of war on our right; the wide ditch on our +left has been filled up, and partly enclosed for cultivation. +There are trees, and cows browsing, although the farm +which Stow remembered no longer existed. Before us, +just outside Aldgate, is the church of St. Buttolph, with +its massive tower, standing in a spacious churchyard. +Owing to the extensive building and development which +had taken place outside the wall since the Reformation, it +had been necessary to construct lofts and galleries in this +church to accommodate the parishioners. At Aldgate +the line of the wall turns westward towards Bishopsgate. +Parallel to it a road has been made along the bank of +the ditch, and leads into Bishopsgate Street. This is<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">{39}</a></span> +Houndsditch. The houses stand thickly along one side of +the way looking towards the wall; the ditch has been filled +up, and the wide surface is used for cattle pens or milking +stalls.</p> + +<p>We will not go along Houndsditch, but turning sharply +to the left from St. Buttolph's we pass through Aldgate. +In doing so we immediately find ourselves in the midst of +the remains of the great priory of Holy Trinity. The +road leads southward into Fenchurch Street, branching off +on the west into Leadenhall Street. At the junction of +these streets stood the hospitium of the priory. Between +Leadenhall Street and the city wall, from Aldgate nearly +up to St. Andrew Undershaft, lies the ground-plan of +the establishment of the Canons Regular, known as +Christchurch, or the priory of Holy Trinity, the grandest +of all the monastic institutions in Middlesex except +Westminster. The heads of the establishment were +aldermen of the City of London, representing the Portsoken +Ward.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>"These priors have sitten and ridden amongst the aldermen of +London, in livery like unto them, saving that his habit was in shape of a +spiritual person, as I, myself, have seen in my childhood; at which +time the prior kept a most bountiful house of meat and drink, both +for rich and poor, as well within the house as at the gates, to all +comers, according to their estates" (Stow).</p></div> + +<p>In 1531 the King took possession of Christchurch; +the canons were sent to other houses of the same order—St. +Bartholomew the Great, Smithfield; St. Mary Overies, +Southwark; and St. Mary Spital—"and the priory, with +the appurtenances, King Henry gave to Sir Thomas +Audley, newly knighted, and after made Lord Chancellor" +(Stow). So extensive and so solid was the mass of building +that Audley was at a loss to get the space cleared for the +new house he wished to build here. He offered the great +church of the priory to any one who would take it down +and cart away the materials. But as this offer met with no +response, Audley had to undertake the destruction himself.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">{40}</a></span> +Stow could remember how the workmen employed on this +work, "with great labour, beginning at the top"—the +tower had pinnacles at each corner like the towers at +St. Saviour's and St. Sepulchre's—"loosed stone from stone, +and threw them down, whereby the most part of them were +broken, and few remained whole; and those were sold very +cheap, for all the buildings then made about the city were +of brick and timber. At that time any man in the city +might have a cart-load of hard stone for paving brought to +his door for sixpence or sevenpence, with the carriage." +Thus, in place of the priory and its noble church, was built +the residence of Thomas, Lord Audley, and here he lived +till his death in 1544. By marriage of his only daughter +and heiress, the house passed into the possession of +Thomas Howard, Duke of Norfolk, and was then called +Duke's Place.</p> + +<p>Turning our backs upon Duke's Place and continuing a +little further along the way by which Stow used to fetch +the milk from the farm at the Minories to his father's +house on Cornhill, we come to Leadenhall, a great building +which served as a public granary in ancient times, and +later as the chief market hall of the city. Leaving aside +all the particulars of its history which Stow gives, let us +note what he tells us from his own recollections:</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>"The use of Leadenhall in my youth was thus:—In a part of the +north quadrant, on the east side of the north gate, were the common +beams for weighing of wool and other wares, as had been accustomed; +on the west side the gate were the scales to weigh meal; the other +three sides were reserved, for the most part, to the making and resting +of the pageants showed at Midsummer in the watch; the remnant of +the sides and quadrants was employed for the stowage of wool sacks, +but not closed up; the lofts above were partly used by the painters in +working for the decking of pageants and other devices, for beautifying of +the watch and watchmen; the residue of the lofts were letten out to +merchants, the wool winders and packers therein to wind and pack their +wools. And thus much for Leadenhall may suffice."</p></div> + +<p>The celebration of the Nativity of St. John and the +civic pageantry of Midsummer Eve belonged to the past;<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">{41}</a></span> +but Stow could remember the assembly of the citizens +arrayed in parti-coloured vestments of red and white +over their armour, their lances coloured and decorated +to distinguish the various wards they represented, their +torches borne in cressets on long poles. He could +remember the processions as they passed the bonfires +which burned in the open spaces of the city thoroughfares, +and the throng of faces at the open windows and +casements as they appeared in the fitful glare. The +pageantry had disappeared with the suppression of the +religious houses; but the military organization was merely +changed. The musters of the city soldiers when they +were reviewed by Queen Elizabeth at the coming of +the Armada was a recent memory.</p> + +<p>And so we turn into Bishopsgate Street again, and +walk along to Crosby Hall, the ancient palace of +Richard III. In the middle of the roadway, opposite the +junction of Threadneedle Street with Bishopsgate Street, +stands a well, with a windlass, which probably existed +here before the conduit was made near the gateway in +the time of Henry VIII. We enter the precinct of +St. Helen's: the wall of Crosby's great chamber is on our +right hand; before us is the church of the nunnery. The +spirit of the place is upon us. The barriers of time are +removed; past and present mingle in the current of our +meditation. Lo! one bids us a courteous farewell: it is +Master Stow, our cicerone, who goes away in the direction +of St. Andrew Undershaft. The presence of another +influence continues to be felt. We enter the dim church, +and shadows of kneeling nuns seem to hover in the +twilight of the northern nave. Invisible fingers touch the +organ-keys; the strains of evensong arise from the choir. +Our reverie is broken, an influence recedes from us. But +turning our eyes towards the painted picture of Shakespeare +which fills the memorial window in this ancient +church, we join in the hymn of praise and thanksgiving.</p> + +<hr class="tb" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">{42}</a></span></p> + +<p>What chiefly impressed the Elizabethan was the +newness of London, and the rapidity with which its ancient +features were being obliterated. John Stow felt it +incumbent upon him to make a record of the ancient city +before it was entirely swept away and forgotten. In what +was new to him we find a similar interest.</p> + +<p>Through Bishopsgate northward lies Shoreditch. The +old church which stood here in Elizabethan times has +disappeared, but on the site stands another church with +the same dedication, to St. Leonard. The sweet peal of +the bells from the old belfry, so much appreciated by the +Elizabethans, is to be heard no more; but the muniment +chest of the modern church contains the old registers, in +which we may read the names of Tarleton, Queen +Elizabeth's famous jester, of Burbage, and the colony +of players who lived in this parish, in the precinct +of the dissolved priory of Holywell. The road from +Shoreditch to the precinct still exists, known as Holywell +Lane.</p> + +<p>The priory of St. John Baptist, called Holywell, a house +of nuns, had been rebuilt, in the earlier period of the reign +of Henry VIII., by Sir Thomas Lovel, K.G., of Lincoln's +Inn. He endowed the priory with fair lands, extended +the buildings, and added a large chapel. He also built +considerably in Lincoln's Inn, including the fine old +gateway in Chancery Lane, which still stands as one of the +few remaining memorials of ancient London. Sir Thomas +figures as one of the characters in Shakespeare's play of +<i>Henry VIII.</i> When he died he was duly buried in the +large chapel which he had added to Holywell Priory, in +accordance with his design; but a few years later, in 1539, +the priory was surrendered to the King and dissolved. +Stow tells us that the church was pulled down—it is +doubtful if Lovel's chapel was spared—and that many +houses were built within the precinct "for the lodgings of +noblemen, of strangers born, and others."<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">{43}</a></span></p> + +<p>In the first edition of his <i>Survey</i> Stow added:—</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>"And near thereunto are builded two publique houses for the acting +and shewe of comedies, tragedies and histories, for recreation. Whereof +one is called the Courtein, and the other the Theatre; both standing +on the south west side towards the field."</p></div> + +<p>This passage was omitted from the second edition +of the book published in 1603; but the whole extensive +history of these playhouses, which was won from +oblivion by the research of J. O. Halliwell-Phillipps, +proceeded from this brief testimony of Stow.</p> + + +<p>Against the background of the ancient priory this +precinct of Holywell presented a perfect picture of the +new conditions which constituted what was distinctively +Elizabethan London. It comprehended the conditions of +freedom required by the new life. Outside the jurisdiction +of the city, but within the protection of the justices of +Middlesex; lying open to the common fields of Finsbury, +where archery and other sports were daily practised; its +two playhouses affording varied entertainment in fencing +matches, wrestling matches, and other "sports, shows, and +pastimes," besides stage-plays performed by the various +acting companies which visited them; this precinct of +Holywell presented a microcosm of Elizabethan London +society. The attraction of the plays brought visitors +from all parts of the city. On the days when dramatic +performances were to be given flags were hoisted in the +morning over the playhouses; and after the early midday +dinner the stream of playgoers began to flow from the +gates. On horseback and on foot, over the fields from +Cripplegate and Moorgate, or along the road from +Bishopsgate, came men and women, citizens and gallants, +visitors from the country, adventurers and pickpockets. +All classes and conditions mingled in the Theatre or +the Curtain, in the "common playhouses," as they were +called, which only came into existence in 1576, after +the players had been banished from the city. It was +all delightfully new and modern; the buildings were<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">{44}</a></span> +gorgeously decorated; the apparel of the players was +rich and dazzling; the music was enthralling; the play +was a magic dream.</p> + +<p>Some of the plays of Marlowe were performed at these +Holywell theatres; and in 1596 a play by the new poet, +William Shakespeare, called <i>Romeo and Juliet</i>, was +produced at the Curtain, and caused a great sensation in +Elizabethan London. The famous balcony scene of this +play was cleverly adapted to the orchestra gallery above +the stage. The stage itself projected into the arena, and +the "groundlings" stood around it. Above were three +tiers of seated galleries, and near the stage were "lords' +rooms," the precursors of the private boxes of a later +time.</p> + +<hr class="tb" /> + +<p>After the Theatre and Curtain had become a feature +of Elizabethan London at Shoreditch, other playhouses +came into existence on the other side of the river; first +at Newington, outside the jurisdiction of the city, in +conditions corresponding to those of Shoreditch. For +the sports and pastimes of Finsbury Fields, in the +neighbourhood of the playhouses, there were the sports +and pastimes of St. George's Fields in the neighbourhood +of the Newington Theatre. Playgoers from the city took +boat to Paris Garden stairs and witnessed the bear-baiting +on Bankside, or proceeded by road on horseback or on +foot to St. George's Fields and Newington; or they went +thither over the bridge all the way by road, walking or +riding. The use of coaches was very limited, owing to +the narrow roads and imperfect paving of Elizabethan +London.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/image_012.jpg" width="416" height="600" alt="" /> +<div class="caption"><p class='center'><span class="smcap">Shooting Match by the London Archers in the Year 1583.</span></p></div> +</div> + +<p>At Newington the proprietor and manager of the +playhouse was Philip Henslowe, whose diary is the chief +source of what information we have concerning the earlier +period of Elizabethan drama. He was a man of business +instinct, who conducted his dramatic enterprise on purely<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">{45}</a></span> +commercial lines. In 1584 he secured the lease of a house +and two gardens on Bankside, and here, in the "liberty" +of the Bishop of Winchester, nearer to the city but +outside the civic jurisdiction, he erected his playhouse, +called the Rose, in 1591. Henslowe thus brought the +drama nearer to the city than it had been since the edict +of 1575 abolished the common stages which until then had +been set up in inn yards or other convenient places in the +city. The flag of the playhouse could be seen across +the river; and from all points came the tide of playgoers, +whose custom was a harvest to Henslowe and the Thames +watermen.</p> + +<p>Midway between these two points of theatrical +attraction—Holywell, Shoreditch on the north, and +Newington and Bankside on the south—Shakespeare +lodged in the precinct of St. Helen's, Bishopsgate. The +company of players with whom he had become finally +associated was that of the Lord Chamberlain. They +derived their profits from three sources—from +performances at court, from theatrical tours, and from +performances at the Theatre and the Curtain. The +Theatre was the property of the family of James +Burbage, who had built it in 1576—his son Richard +Burbage, the famous actor, and others. The +interest of the proprietors may have suffered from +Henslowe's enterprise in setting up a playhouse on +Bankside; and they were in dispute with the ground +landlord of their playhouse in regard to the renewal of +their lease. In these circumstances the Burbages, with +the co-operation of other members of the company, secured +a site in the Winchester Liberty on Bankside, not far +from the Rose but nearer the Bridge. They then took +down their building in Holywell, vacated the land, and +re-erected the playhouse on the other side of the river. +Those who participated in this enterprise became "sharers," +or partners, in the new playhouse. Shakespeare was one +of these, and the name by which it was called—the Globe—was<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">{46}</a></span> +symbolical of the genius which reached its maturity +in plays presented in this theatre during the closing years +of the reign of Elizabeth and the first decade of the reign +of her successor. "Totus mundus agit histrionem" was +the inscription over the portal of the Globe. "All the +world's a stage," said Shakespeare's Jaques in <i>As You +Like It</i>. The life of Elizabethan London found its +ultimate expression in that playhouse, which became +celebrated then as "the glory of the Bank," and now is +famous in all parts of the world where the glory of +English literature is cherished.</p> + +<hr class="tb" /> + +<p>There were many reminiscences of mediæval times on +the Surrey side. At Bermondsey were to be seen the +extensive remains of the great abbey of St. Saviour. After +the Dissolution its name became transferred to the church +near the end of London Bridge, formerly known as +St. Mary Overies, the splendid fane which in our time +has worthily become the cathedral of Southwark. Between +this church and the church of St. George were many inns, +among them the Tabard, where travellers to and from +Canterbury and Dover, or Winchester and Southampton, +introduced an element of novelty, change, and bustle; +where plays were performed in the inn yards before the +playhouses were built on Bankside. At the end of +Bankside, looking towards the church of St. Saviour, stood +Winchester House, the London residence of the Bishop of +Winchester since the twelfth century. Here Cardinal +Beaufort and Stephen Gardiner, Bishop of Winchester, +had lived in great state. The site, including the park, +which extended parallel with the river as far as Paris +Garden, was formerly the property of the priory of +Bermondsey. This area was under the separate +jurisdiction of the Bishops of Winchester, and was called +their "Liberty." Here, in the early years of Queen +Elizabeth, were two amphitheatres—one for bull-baiting,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">{47}</a></span> +the other for bear-baiting. There were also ponds for +fish, called the Pike Ponds.<a name="FNanchor_4_4" id="FNanchor_4_4"></a><a href="#Footnote_4_4" class="fnanchor">[4]</a> The great Camden records +an anecdote of these ponds or stews, "which are here to +feed Pikes and Tenches fat, and to scour them from the +strong and muddy fennish taste." All classes delighted +in the cruel sport of bear-baiting on the Bankside: +ambassadors and distinguished foreigners were always +conducted to these performances; on special occasions +the Queen had them at the palace.</p> + +<p>In 1583 one of the amphitheatres fell down, and when +re-erected it was built on the model of the playhouses.<a name="FNanchor_5_5" id="FNanchor_5_5"></a><a href="#Footnote_5_5" class="fnanchor">[5]</a> +It then became known as the Bear Garden; the bull-baiting +amphitheatre dropped out of existence; perhaps it was +reconstructed by Henslowe as his Rose theatre. The +point is not of much importance, except as regards the +evolution of the playhouse.</p> + +<p>The second playhouse built on the Surrey side after the +Rose was the Swan, opened in 1596. This was erected on +a site in the manor of Paris Garden, separated only by a +road from the Liberty of Winchester. The playhouse +was in a line with the landing-stairs, opposite Blackfriars.</p> + +<p>After the Globe playhouse was built in 1599, the other +playhouses—Henslowe's Rose and Langley's Swan—ceased +to flourish. Here the outward facts corresponded +with the inward: a lovely flower had opened into bloom +on the Bankside; what was unnecessary to its support +drooped earthward like a sheath.</p> + +<hr class="tb" /> + +<p>Opposite Paris Garden, across the river, was +Blackfriars; and here the change from the ancient order +to what was distinctively Elizabethan London was most +manifest. The ancient monastery had existed here from +1276, when the Dominican or Black Friars moved hither<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">{48}</a></span> +from Holborn, until 1538, when the establishment was +surrendered to King Henry VIII. It possessed a +magnificent church, a vast palatial hall, and cloisters. +Edward VI. had granted the whole precinct, with its +buildings, to Sir Thomas Cawarden, the Master of the +Revels. It became an aristocratic residential quarter; and +in the earlier period of Queen Elizabeth's reign plays +were performed here, probably in the ancient hall of the +monastery, by the children of Her Majesty's chapel and +the choir-boys of St. Paul's. At a later period—viz., in +1596—James Burbage, who built the theatre in Shoreditch, +built a new playhouse in the precinct, or more probably +adapted an existing building—the hall or part of the +church—to serve the purpose of dramatic representation. +This playhouse, consequently, was not open to the weather +at the top like the common playhouses, and it was +distinguished as the "private" theatre at Blackfriars.</p> + +<p>The west wall of the precinct was built along the bank +of the Fleet river. Across the river opposite was the royal +palace of Bridewell, which Edward VI. had given to the +city of London to be a workhouse for the poor and a +house of correction. This contiguity of a house for the +poor and the remains of a monastery suggests a reflection +on the social problem of Elizabethan London.</p> + +<p>Before the Reformation the religious houses were the +agencies for the relief of the poor, the sick, the afflicted. +The unemployed were assisted with lodging and food on +their way as they journeyed in search of a market for +their labour, paying for their entertainment at the religious +houses by work either on the roads in the neighbourhood +or on the buildings or in the gardens and fields, according +to their trades and skill. It would seem that King Henry +did not realise the importance and extent of this +feature in the social economy, because, after he had +suppressed the religious establishments, he complained +very reproachfully of the number of masterless men and +rogues that were everywhere to be found, especially about<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">{49}</a></span> +London. The good Bishop Ridley, in an eloquent appeal +addressed to William Cecil, represented the poor and sick +and starving in the streets of London in the person of +Christ, beseeching the king to succour the poor and +suffering Christ in the streets of London by bestowing his +palace of Bridewell to be a home for the homeless, the +starving, and the sick, where erring ones could be corrected +and the good sustained. The good young monarch +granted the bishop's request, and Bridewell Hospital was +thus founded to do the social work in which Blackfriars +monastery on the other side of the Fleet river had formerly +borne its share. But single efforts of this kind were quite +unequal to cope with the social difficulty; and early in +the reign of Elizabeth the first Poor Law was passed and +a system of relief came into operation.</p> + +<p>To meet the difficulty of unemployment, it was part +of the policy of Queen Elizabeth's Government to +encourage new industries, whether due to invention and +discovery or to knowledge gained by visiting foreign +countries to learn new processes and manufactures; the +inventor or the introducer of the novelty was rewarded +with a monopoly, and he received a licence "to take up +workmen" to be taught the methods of the new industry. +One of the manufactures which had been thus stimulated +was glass-making; and in the precinct of Blackfriars was +a famous glass-house or factory, a reminiscence of which +still exists in the name Glasshouse Yard. It has been +shown how the crafts and trades of Elizabethan London +gravitated to separate areas: Blackfriars precinct was +famous as the abode of artists; one may hazard the guess +that some of the portraits of Elizabethan and Jacobean +players in the Dulwich Gallery may have been painted +here. In the reign of Charles I. Vandyke had his studio +in Blackfriars, where the king paid him a visit to see +his pictures. The precinct was famous also as the abode +of glovers; and in the reigns of James and Charles it +became a notorious stronghold of Puritans. The existing<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">{50}</a></span> +name of Playhouse Yard, at the back of <i>The Times</i> +newspaper office, affords some indication of the site of +the theatre; and the name Cloister Court is the sole +remnant of the cloisters of Blackfriars monastery.</p> + +<p>The eastern boundary of the precinct was St. Andrew's +Hill, which still exists. On the site of the present church +of St. Andrew in the Wardrobe stood a church of the +same dedication in Elizabethan London. Stow wrote of +"the parish church of St. Andrew in the Wardrobe, a +proper church, but few monuments hath it." Near the +church (the site being indicated by the existing court called +the Wardrobe) was a building of State, which Stow calls +"the King's Great Wardrobe." The Elizabethan use of +the Wardrobe is described by Stow thus: "In this house +of late years is lodged Sir John Fortescue, knight, master +of the wardrobe, chancellor and under-treasurer of the +exchequer, and one of her majesty's most honorable privy +Council."</p> + +<p>Near the top of St. Andrew's Hill and within the +precinct of Blackfriars was a house which Shakespeare +purchased in 1613. It is described in the extant +Deed of Conveyance as "now or late being in the +tenure or occupation of one William Ireland ... +abutting upon a street leading down to Puddle Wharf on +the east part, right against the Kinges Majesties +Wardrobe." Curiously enough, the name of this occupier +survives in the existing Ireland Yard.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/image_013.jpg" width="50" height="47" alt="" /> +</div> + + +<h3>ENVOY</h3> + + +<p>The omissions in this imperfect sketch of Elizabethan +London are many and obvious. The design has been to +show the tangible setting of a jewel rather than the jewel +itself; the outward conditions in which the life of a new +age was manifested. The background of destruction has<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">{51}</a></span> +been inevitably emphasised; but in Elizabethan London +historic memorials existed on every hand. Nothing has +been said of Baynard's Castle, its Norman walls rising +from the margin of the river to the south of Blackfriars, +or of St Bartholomew the Great, or the Charterhouse, or +St. Giles's, Cripplegate; although an account of them +would have completed the outer ring of our perambulation +of the London described by Stow. The whole region +westward—Holborn, Fleet Street, the Strand, and +Westminster—has been left for another occasion. Here +and there, however, we have been able to glance at historic +buildings which had survived from earlier ages to +witness the changes in London after the Reformation. +It was those changes that led to the making of the +playhouse and brought the conditions which enfolded +the possibility realised in Shakespeare. This has been +the point of view in the foregoing pages. A study of +characteristics rather than a detailed account has been +offered for the consideration of the reader.</p></div> + + + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">{52}</a></span></p> + +<hr class="chap" /> +<div class="chapter"> +<h2><a name="PEPYSS_LONDON" id="PEPYSS_LONDON">PEPYS'S LONDON</a></h2> + +<p class='p3'><span class="smcap">By Henry B. Wheatley, F.S.A.</span></p> + + +<div> +<img class="drop-cap" src="images/drop-t.png" width="100" height="118" alt="" /> +</div> + +<p class="drop-cap">The growth of population in London was almost +stationary for many centuries; as, owing to the +generally unhealthy condition of ancient cities, +the births seldom exceeded the deaths, and in the +case of frequent pestilences the deaths actually exceeded +the births. Thus during its early history the walls of +London easily contained its inhabitants, although at +all times in its history London will be found to have +taken a higher rank for healthy sanitary conditions than +most of its continental contemporaries. In the later +Middle Ages the city overflowed its borders, and +its liberties were recognized and marked by Bars. +Subsequently nothing was done to bring the further +out-growths of London proper within the fold, and in +Tudor times we first hear of the suburbs as disreputable +quarters, a condemnation which was doubtless just, as +the inhabitants mostly consisted of those who were glad +to escape the restrictions of life within the city walls.</p> + +<p>The first great exodus westwards of the more +aristocratic inhabitants of London took place in the +reigns of James I. and Charles I.—first to Lincoln's Inn +Fields and its neighbourhood, and then to Covent +Garden, and both these suburbs were laid out by Inigo +Jones, the greatest architect of beautiful street fronts +that England has ever produced. It is an eternal +disgrace to Londoners that so many of his noble buildings +in Lincoln's Inn Fields have been destroyed. The period +of construction of these districts is marked by the names<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">{53}</a></span> +of Henrietta and King Streets in Covent Garden, and +Great Queen Street, Lincoln's Inn Fields.</p> + +<p>After the Restoration modern London was founded. +During the Commonwealth there had been a considerable +stagnation in the movement of the population, and when +the Royalists returned to England from abroad they +found their family mansions in the city unfitted for their +habitation, and in consequence established themselves in +what is now the city of Westminster. Henry Jermyn, +first Earl of St. Albans, began to provide houses for +some of them in St. James's Square, and buildings in the +district around were rapidly proceeded with.</p> + +<p>We have a faithful representation of London, as it +appeared at the end of the Commonwealth period, in +Newcourt and Faithorne's valuable Plan of London, dated +1658. A long growth of houses north of the Thames is +seen stretching from the Tower to the neighbourhood of +Westminster Abbey. Islington is found at the extreme +north of the plan unconnected with the streets of the +town, Hoxton connected with the city by Shoreditch, +Bethnal Green almost alone, and Stepney at the extreme +north-east. South of the Thames there are a few streets +close to the river, and a small out-growth from London +Bridge along the great southern road containing Southwark +and Bermondsey. There is little at Lambeth but +the Archbishop's Palace and the great marsh.</p> + +<p>On this plan we see what was the condition of the +Haymarket and Piccadilly before the Restoration. This +was soon to be changed, for between the years 1664 and +1668 were erected three great mansions in the "Road to +Reading" (now Piccadilly), viz., Clarendon House (where +Bond and Albemarle Streets now stand), Berkeley House +(on the site now occupied by Devonshire House), and +Burlington House. Piccadilly was the original name of +the district after which Piccadilly Hall was called. The +latter place was situated at the north-east corner of the +Haymarket, nearly opposite to Panton Square, and close<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">{54}</a></span> +by Panton Street, named after Colonel Thomas Panton, +the notorious gamester, who purchased Piccadilly Hall +from Mrs. Baker, the widow of the original owner.</p> + +<p>There is much to be said in favour of associating +the name of some well-known man with the London +of his time, and thus showing how his descriptions +illustrate the chief historical events of his time, with +many of which he may have been connected. In the +case of Samuel Pepys, we can see with his eyes +many of the incidents of the early years of the +Restoration period, and thus gain an insight into the +inner life of the times. Pepys lived through some of +the greatest changes that have passed over London, and +in alluding to some of these we may quote his remarks +with advantage. His friend, John Evelyn, also refers to +many of the same events, and may also be quoted, more +particularly as he was specially engaged at different +periods of his life in improving several parts of London.</p> + +<p>We are truly fortunate in having two such admirable +diarists at hand to help us to a proper understanding of +the course of events and of the changes that took place +in London during their long lives.</p> + +<p>When Pepys commenced his <i>Diary</i> on January 1st, +1660, we find him living in a small house in Axe Yard, +Westminster, a place which derived its name from a +brewhouse on the west side of King Street, called "The +Axe." He was then clerk to Mr. (afterwards Sir George) +Downing, one of the Four Tellers of the Receipt of the +Exchequer, from whom Downing Street obtained its +name. Pepys was in the receipt of £50 a year, and his +household was not a large one, for it consisted of +himself, his wife, and his servant Jane. He let the +greater part of the house, and his family lived in the +garrets. About 1767 Axe Yard was swept away, and +Fludyer Street arose on its site, named after Sir Samuel +Fludyer, who was Lord Mayor in 1761. Nearly a century +afterwards (1864-65) this street also was swept away<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">{55}</a></span> +(with others) to make room for the Government offices, +consisting of the India, Foreign and Colonial Offices, +etc., so that all trace of Pepys's residence has now +completely passed away.</p> + +<p>Macaulay, in the famous third chapter of his History, +where he gives a brilliant picture of the state of England +in 1685, and clearly describes London under the later +Stuarts, writes: "Each of the two cities which made up +the capital of England had its own centre of attraction." +We may take this sentence as our text, and try to illustrate +it by some notices of London life in the city and at +the Court end of town. The two extremes were equally +familiar to Pepys, and both were seen by him almost +daily when he stepped into his boat by the Tower and +out of it again at Westminster.</p> + +<p>To take the court life first, let us begin with the entry +of the King into London on his birthday (May 29th, 1660). +The enthusiastic reception of Charles II. is a commonplace +of history, and from the Tower to Whitehall joy +was exhibited by all that thronged the streets. Evelyn +was spectator of the scene, which he describes in his +<i>Diary</i>:—</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>"May 29th. This day his Majestie Charles the Second came to +London after a sad and long exile and calamitous suffering both of the +King and Church, being 17 yeares. This was also his birthday, and with +a triumph of above 20,000 horse and foote, brandishing their swords and +shouting with inexpressible joy; the wayes strew'd with flowers, the bells +ringing, the streetes hung with tapissry, fountaines running with wine; +the Maior, Aldermen and all the Companies in their liveries, chaines of +gold and banners; Lords and nobles clad in cloth of silver, gold and +velvet; the windowes and balconies all set with ladies; trumpets, music +and myriads of people flocking, even so far as Rochester, so as they +were seven houres in passing the citty, even from 2 in y<sup>e</sup> afternoon till +9 at night.</p> + +<p>"I stood in the Strand and beheld it, and bless'd God. And all this +was done without one drop of blood shed, and by that very army which +rebell'd against him; but it was y<sup>e</sup> Lord's doing, for such a restauration +was never mention'd in any history antient or modern, since the returne +of the Jews from the Babylonish captivity; nor so joyfull a day and so +bright ever seene in this nation, this hapning when to expect or effect +it was past all human policy."<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">{56}</a></span></p></div> + +<p>One of the brilliant companies of young and +comely men in white doublets who took part in the +procession was led by Simon Wadlow, the vintner and +host of the "Devil" tavern. This was the son of Ben +Jonson's Simon Wadlow, "Old Simon the King," who +gave his name to Squire Western's favourite song. From +Rugge's curious MS. <i>Diurnal</i> we learn how the young +women of London were not behind the young men in the +desire to join in the public rejoicings:—</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>"Divers maidens, in behalf of themselves and others, presented a +petition to the Lord Mayor of London, wherein they pray his Lordship +to grant them leave and liberty to meet his Majesty on the day of his +passing through the city; and if their petition be granted that they will +all be clad in white waistcoats and crimson petticoats, and other ornaments +of triumph and rejoicing."</p></div> + +<p>Pepys was at sea at this time with Sir Edward +Montagu, where the sailors had their own rejoicings and +fired off three guns, but he enters in his <i>Diary</i>: "This +day, it is thought, the King do enter the city of London."</p> + +<p>Charles, immediately on his arrival in London, settled +himself in the Palace of Whitehall, which was his chief +place of residence during the whole of his reign, but +although he was very much at home in it, he felt keenly +the inconveniences attending its situation by the river side, +which caused it frequently to be flooded by high tides.</p> + +<p>The King alludes to this trouble in one of his +amusingly chatty speeches to the House of Commons on +March 1st, 1661-62, when arrangements were being made +for the entry of Katharine of Braganza into London. +He said:—</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>"The mention of my wife's arrival puts me in mind to desire you to +put that compliment upon her, that her entrance into the town may be +with more decency than the ways will now suffer it to be; and for that +purpose, I pray you would quickly pass such laws as are before you, in +order to the amending those ways, and that she may not find Whitehall +surrounded by water."</p></div> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/image_015.jpg" width="600" height="319" alt="" /> + +<p class="img_link"><a href="images/image_015_full.jpg">View larger version.</a></p> + +<div class="caption"><p class='center'><span class="smcap">A View of London as it appeared +before the Great Fire.</span></p> + +<p class='center'><i>From an old print.</i></p></div> + + + +<div class="center"> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align="right">1</td><td align="left">St. Paul's.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">2</td><td align="left">St. Dunstan's.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">3</td><td align="left">Temple.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">4</td><td align="left">St. Bride's.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">5</td><td align="left">St. Andrew's.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">6</td><td align="left">Baynard's Castle.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">7</td><td align="left">St. Sepulchre's.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">8</td><td align="left">Bow Church.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">9</td><td align="left">Guildhall.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">10</td><td align="left">St. Michael's.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">11</td><td align="left">St. Laurence, Poultney.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">12</td><td align="left">Old Swan.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">13</td><td align="left">London Bridge.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">14</td><td align="left">St. Dunstan's East.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">15</td><td align="left">Billingsgate.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">16</td><td align="left">Custom House.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">17</td><td align="left">Tower.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">18</td><td align="left">Tower Wharf.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">19</td><td align="left">St. Olave's.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">20</td><td align="left">St. Saviour's.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">21</td><td align="left">Winchester House.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">22</td><td align="left">The Globe.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">23</td><td align="left">The Bear Garden.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">24</td><td align="left">Hampstead.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">25</td><td align="left">Highgate.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">26</td><td align="left">Hackney.</td></tr> +</table></div></div> + +<p>In the following year we read in Pepys's <i>Diary</i> a +piquant account of the putting out of Lady Castlemaine's<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">{57}</a></span> +kitchen fire on a certain occasion when Charles was +engaged to sup with her:—</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>"October 13th, 1663. My Lady Castlemaine, I hear, is in as great +favour as ever, and the King supped with her the very first night he came +from Bath: and last night and the night before supped with her; when +there being a chine of beef to roast, and the tide rising into their kitchen +that it could not be roasted there, and the cook telling her of it, she +answered, 'Zounds! she must set the house on fire, but it should be +roasted!' So it was carried to Mrs. Sarah's husband's, and there it +was roasted."</p></div> + +<p>The last sentence requires an explanation. Mrs. Sarah +was Lord Sandwich's housekeeper, and Pepys had found +out in November, 1662, that she had just been married, +and that her husband was a cook. We are not told his +name or where he lived.</p> + +<p>Lord Dorset, in the famous song, "To all you ladies +now on land," specially alludes to the periodical +inundations at the Palace:—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"The King, with wonder and surprise,<br /></span> +<span class="i2">Will swear the seas grow bold;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Because the tides will higher rise<br /></span> +<span class="i2">Than e'er they did of old;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">But let him know it is our tears<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Bring floods of grief to Whitehall stairs."<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>Pepys was a constant visitor to Whitehall, and the Index +to the <i>Diary</i> contains over three pages of references to +his visits. He refers to Henry VIII.'s Gallery, the +Boarded Gallery, the Matted Gallery, the Shield Gallery, +and the Vane Room. Lilly, the astrologer, mentions the +Guard Room. The Adam and Eve Gallery was so called +from a picture by Mabuse, now at Hampton Court. In +the Matted Gallery was a ceiling by Holbein, and on a +wall in the Privy Chamber a painting of Henry VII. and +Henry VIII., with their Queens, by the same artist, of +which a copy in small is preserved at Hampton Court. +On another wall was a "Dance of Death," also by +Holbein, of which Douce has given a description; and +in the bedchamber of Charles II. a representation by +Joseph Wright of the King's birth, his right to his<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">{58}</a></span> +dominions, and miraculous preservation, with the motto, +<i>Terras Astræa revisit</i>.</p> + +<p>All these rooms, and most of the lodgings of the many +residents, royal and non-royal, were in the portion of +the Palace situated on the river side of the road, now +known as Whitehall. This road was shut in by two +gates erected by Henry VIII. when he enlarged the +borders of the Palace after he had taken it from +Wolsey. The one at the Westminster end was called +the King Street gate, and the other, at the north end, +designed by Holbein, was called by his name, and also +Whitehall or Cock-pit gate.</p> + +<p>It is necessary to remember that Whitehall extended +into St. James's Park. The Tilt Yard, where many +tournaments and pageants were held in the reigns of +Henry VIII., Elizabeth, and James I., fronted the +Banqueting House, and occupied what is now the Horse +Guards' Parade. On the south side of the Tilt Yard was +the Cockpit, where Monk, Duke of Albemarle, lived for a +time. His name was given to a tavern in the Tilt Yard +("The Monk's Head").</p> + +<p>On the north side was Spring Gardens, otherwise the +King's Garden, but it subsequently became a place of +public entertainment, and after the Restoration it was +styled the Old Spring Garden; then the ground was +built upon, and the entertainments removed to the New +Spring Garden at Lambeth, afterwards called Vauxhall.</p> + +<p>The Cockpit was originally used for cock-fighting, +but it cannot be definitely said when it ceased to be +employed for this cruel sport. It was for a considerable +time used as a royal theatre, and Malone wrote:—</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>"Neither Elizabeth, nor James I., nor Charles I., I believe, ever +went to the public theatre, but they frequently ordered plays to be performed +at Court, which were represented in the royal theatre called the +Cockpit."</p></div> + +<p>Malone is probably incorrect in respect to Elizabeth's use +of the Cockpit, for certainly cock-fighting was practised<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">{59}</a></span> +here as late as 1607, as may be seen from the following +entry in the State Papers:—</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>"Aug. 4th, 1607. Warrant to pay 100 marks per annum to William +Gateacre for breeding, feeding, etc., the King's game cocks during the +life of George Coliner, Cockmaster."<a name="FNanchor_6_6" id="FNanchor_6_6"></a><a href="#Footnote_6_6" class="fnanchor">[6]</a></p></div> + +<p>It is, of course, possible that the players and the cocks +occupied the place contemporaneously.</p> + +<p>The lodgings at the Cockpit were occupied by some +well-known men. Philip Herbert, Earl of Pembroke and +Montgomery, saw Charles I. pass from St. James's to the +scaffold at the Banqueting House from one of his +windows, and he died in these apartments on January +23rd, 1650. Oliver Cromwell, when Lord-Lieutenant of +Ireland, was given, by order of Parliament, "the use of +the lodgings called the Cockpit, of the Spring Garden +and St. James's House, and the command of St. James's +Park," and when Protector, and in possession of +Whitehall Palace, he still retained the Cockpit. When +in 1657 he relaxed some of the prohibitions against +the Theatre, he used the Cockpit stage occasionally for +instrumental and vocal music.</p> + +<p>A little before the Restoration the apartments were +assigned to General Monk, and Charles II. confirmed the +arrangement. Here he died, as Duke of Albemarle, on +January 3rd, 1670. In 1673 George Villiers, second +Duke of Buckingham, became a resident, and at the +Revolution of 1688 the Princess Anne was living here.</p> + +<p>There has been some confusion in respect to the +references to the Cockpit in Pepys's <i>Diary</i>, as two distinct +theatres are referred to under this name. The references +before November, 1660, are to the performances of the +Duke's Company at the Cockpit in Drury Lane. Here +Pepys saw the "Loyal Subject," "Othello," "Wit without +Money," and "The Woman's Prize or Tamer Tamed." +The subsequent passages in which the Cockpit is referred +to apply to the royal theatre attached to Whitehall<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">{60}</a></span> +Palace. Here Pepys saw "The Cardinal," "Claricilla," +"Humorous Lieutenant," "Scornful Lady," and the +"Valiant Cid." It is useful to remember that the +performances at Whitehall were in the evening, and +those at the public theatre in the afternoon.</p> + +<p>The buildings of the Old Whitefriars Palace by the +river side were irregular and unimposing outside, although +they were handsome inside. The grand scheme of Inigo +Jones for rebuilding initiated by James I., and +occasionally entertained by Charles I. and II. and +William III., came to nothing, but the noble Banqueting +House remains to show what might have been.</p> + +<p>The Rev. Dr. Sheppard, in his valuable work on <i>The +Old Palace of Whitehall</i> (1902), refers to Grinling +Gibbons's statue of James II., which for many years stood +in the Privy Garden, and is one of the very few good +statues in London. He refers to the temporary removal +of the statue to the front of Gwydyr House, and writes: +"Since the statue has been removed to its present position +an inscription (there was none originally) has been placed +on its stone pedestal. It runs as follows:—</p> + +<p class='center'> +JACOBUS SECUNDUS<br /> +DEI GRATIA ANGLIÆ SCOTIÆ FRANCIÆ<br /> +ET HIBERNIÆ REX.<br /> +FIDEI DEFENSOR. ANNO MDCLXXXVI."<br /> +</p> + +<p>This, however, is a mistake, and the inscription runs +as follows:—</p> + +<p class='center'> +JACOBUS SECUNDUS<br /> +DEI GRATIÆ<br /> +ANGLIÆ SCOTIÆ<br /> +FRANCIÆ ET<br /> +HIBERNIÆ<br /> +REX<br /> +FIDEI DEFENSOR<br /> +ANNO MDCLXXXVI<br /> +</p> + +<p>in capitals, and without any stops.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">{61}</a></span></p> + +<p>The present writer remembers well being taken as +a little boy to read the inscription and find out the +error in the Latin. The statue has since been removed +to the front of the new buildings of the Admiralty +between the Horse Guards' Parade and Spring +Gardens, a very appropriate position for a Lord High +Admiral. I am happy to see that the inscription has +not been altered, and the incorrect "Dei gratiæ" +appears as in my youth.</p> + +<p>James Duke of York, after the Restoration, occupied +apartments in St. James's Palace, and his Secretary of +the Admiralty, Sir William Coventry, had lodgings +conveniently near him. The Duke sometimes moved +from one palace to the other, as his father, Charles I., +had done before him. Henrietta Maria took a fancy to +the place, and most of their children were born at +St. James's, the Duke being one of these.</p> + +<p>James's changes of residence are recorded in Pepys's +<i>Diary</i> as follows:—</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>"Jan. 23rd, 1664-65. Up and with Sir W. Batten and Sir W. Pen +to White Hall; but there finding the Duke gone to his lodgings at +St. James's for alltogether, his Duchesse being ready to lie in, we to him +and there did our usual business."</p> + +<p>"May 3rd, 1667. Up and with Sir J. Minnes, W. Batten and W. Pen +in the last man's coach to St. James's, and thence up to the Duke of +York's chamber, which as it is now fretted at the top, and the chimney-piece +made handsome, is one of the noblest and best-proportioned rooms +that ever, I think, I saw in my life."</p> + +<p>"May 20th, 1668. Up and with Colonell Middleton in a new coach +he hath made him, very handsome, to White Hall, where the Duke +of York having removed his lodgings for this year to St. James's we +walked thither; and there find the Duke of York coming to White Hall, +and so back to the Council Chamber, where the Committee of the +Navy sat."</p></div> + +<p>In November, 1667, James fell ill of the smallpox in +St. James's Palace, when the gallery doors were locked +up. On March 31st, 1671, Anne Duchess of York, the +daughter of Clarendon, died here. The Princess Mary +was married to William Prince of Orange in November,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">{62}</a></span> +1677, at eleven o'clock at night, in the Chapel Royal, +and on July 28th, 1683, Princess Anne to Prince George +of Denmark, when the pair took up their residence at +St. James's.</p> + +<p>When James came to the crown he went to live at +Whitehall Palace, but he frequently stayed at St. James's. +On June 9th, 1688, Queen Mary of Modena was taken to +the latter place, and on the following day James Francis +Edward, afterwards known as "The Pretender," was born +in the Old Bedchamber. This room was situated at the +east end of the south front. It had three doors, one +leading to a private staircase at the head of the bed, and +two windows opposite the bed.<a name="FNanchor_7_7" id="FNanchor_7_7"></a><a href="#Footnote_7_7" class="fnanchor">[7]</a></p> + +<p>The room was pulled down previous to the alterations +made in the year 1822.</p> + +<p>The anecdote of Charles II. and the chaplains of the +Chapel Royal is often quoted, but it is worth repeating, +as it shows the ready wit of the great preacher, Dr. South. +A daily dinner was prepared at the Palace for the +chaplains, and one day the King notified his intention +of dining with them. There had been some talk of +abolishing this practice, and South seized the opportunity +of saying grace to do his best in opposition to the +suggestion; so, instead of the regular formula, which was +"God save the King and bless the dinner," said "God +bless the King and save the dinner." Charles at once +cried out, "And it shall be saved."</p> + +<p>The Duke of York and the King were fond of +wandering about the park at all hours, and as Charles +often walked by himself, even as far as the then secluded +Constitution Hill, James having expressed fears for his +safety, the elder brother made the memorable reply: +"No kind of danger, James, for I am sure no man in +England will take away my life to make you king."<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">{63}</a></span></p> + +<p>Pepys tells us on March 16th, 1661-2, that while he +was walking in the park he met the King and Duke +coming "to see their fowl play."</p> + +<p>Cosmo III., Grand Duke of Tuscany (then Hereditary +Prince), made a "Tour through England" in 1669, and it +will be remembered that Macaulay found the account of +his travels a valuable help towards obtaining a picture +of the state of England in the middle of the seventeenth +century. Cosmo thus describes St. James's Park:—</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>"A large park enclosed on every side by a wall, and containing a +long, straight, and spacious walk, intended for the amusement of the +Mall, on each side of which grow large elms whose shade render the +promenade in that place in summer infinitely pleasant and agreeable; +close to it is a canal of nearly the same length, on which are several +species of aquatic birds, brought up and rendered domestic—the work of +the Protector Cromwell; the rest of the park is left uncultivated, and +forms a wood for the retreat of deer and other quadrupeds."</p></div> + +<p>His Highness was not quite correct in giving the +credit of the collection of wild-fowl to Cromwell, as the +water-fowl appear to have been kept in the park from the +reign of Elizabeth, and the ponds were replenished after +the Restoration.</p> + +<p>Evelyn gives a long account in his <i>Diary</i> of the +zoological collections (February 9th, 1664-65). He says:</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>"The parke was at this time stored with numerous flocks of severall +sorts of ordinary and extraordinary wild fowle, breeding about the +Decoy, which for being neere so greate a citty, and among such a +concourse of souldiers and people, is a singular and diverting thing. +There were also deere of several countries, white; spotted like leopards; +antelopes, an elk, red deere, roebucks, staggs, guinea goates, Arabian +sheepe, etc. There were withy pots or nests for the wild fowle to lay +their eggs in, a little above y<sup>e</sup> surface of y<sup>e</sup> water."</p></div> + +<p>Charles II. was a saunterer by nature, and he appears +to have been quite happy in the park either chatting with +Nell Gwyn, at the end of the garden of her Pall Mall +house, in feeding the fowl, or in playing the game of +Mall.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">{64}</a></span></p> + +<p>This game was popular from the end of the sixteenth +to the beginning of the eighteenth century, and then went +out of fashion. At one time there were few large towns +without a mall, or prepared ground where the game could +be played. There is reason to believe that the game was +introduced into England from Scotland on the accession +of James VI. to the English throne, because the King +names it in his "Basilicon Dōron" among other exercises +as suited for his son Henry, who was afterwards Prince +of Wales, and about the same time Sir R. Dallington, in +his <i>Method of Travel</i> (1598), expresses his surprise that +the sport was not then introduced into England.</p> + +<p>The game was played in long shaded alleys, and on +dry gravel walks. The mall in St. James's Park was +nearly half a mile in length, and was kept with the +greatest care. Pepys relates how he went to talk with +the keeper of the mall, and how he learned the manner +of mixing the earth for the floor, over which powdered +cockle-shells were strewn. All this required such +attention that a special person was employed for the +purpose, who was called the cockle-strewer. In dry +weather the surface was apt to turn to dust, and +consequently to impede the flight of the ball, so that +the cockle-strewer's office was by no means a sinecure. +Richard Blome, writing in 1673, asserts that this mall +was "said to be the best in Christendom," but Evelyn +claims the pre-eminence for that at Tours, with its seven +rows of tall elms, as "the noblest in Europe for length +and shade." The game is praised by Sir R. Dallington +"because it is a gentlemanlike sport, not violent, and +yields good occasion and opportunity of discourse as +they walke from one marke to the other," and Joseph +Lauthier, who wrote a treatise on the subject, entitled +<i>Le Jeu de Mail</i>, Paris, 1717 (which is now extremely +scarce), uses the same form of recommendation.</p> + +<p>The chief requisites for the game were mallets, balls, +two arches or hoops, one at either end of the mall, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">{65}</a></span> +a wooden border marked so as to show the position of the +balls when played. The mallets were of different size +and form to suit the various players, and Lauthier directs +that the weight and height of the mallet should be in +proportion to the strength and stature of the player. +The balls were of various sizes and weights, and each +size had its distinct name. In damp weather, when the +soil was heavy, a lighter ball was required than when +the soil was sandy. A gauge was used to ascertain its +weight, and the weight of the mallet was adjusted to +that of the ball. The arch or pass was about two feet +high and two inches wide. The one at the west end of +St. James's Park remained in its place for many years, +and was not cleared away until the beginning of the reign +of George III. In playing the game, the mallet was +raised above the head and brought down with great force +so as to strike the ball to a considerable distance. The +poet Waller describes Charles II.'s stroke in the following +lines:—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Here a well-polished Mall gives us joy,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">To see our prince his matchless force employ.<br /></span> +<span class="i0">No sooner has he touch'd the flying ball,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">But 'tis already more than half the Mall;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And such a fury from his arm has got,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">As from a smoking culverin 'twere shot."<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>Considerable skill and practice were required in the +player, who, while attempting to make the ball skate +along the ground with speed, had to be careful that he +did not strike it in such a manner as to raise it from +the ground. This is shown by what Charles Cotton +writes:—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"But playing with the boy at Mall<br /></span> +<span class="i0">(I rue the time and ever shall),<br /></span> +<span class="i0">I struck the ball, I know not how,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">(For that is not the play, you know),<br /></span> +<span class="i0">A pretty height into the air."<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>This boy was, perhaps, a caddie, for it will be seen that +the game was a sort of cross between golf and croquet.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">{66}</a></span></p> + +<p>Lauthier describes four ways of playing at pall mall, +viz.:—(1) the <i>rouet</i>, or pool game; (2) <i>en partie</i>, a match +game; (3) <i>à grands coups</i>, at long shots; and (4) <i>chicane</i>, +or hockey. Moreover, he proposes a new game to be +played like billiards.</p> + +<p>We may now pass from St. James's Park to Hyde +Park, which became a place of public resort in the reigns +of James I. and Charles I. It was then considered to be +quite a country place. Ben Jonson mentions in the +Prologue to his comedy, <i>The Staple of News</i> (1625), the +number of coaches which congregated there, and Shirley +describes the horse-races in his comedy entitled <i>Hide +Parke</i> (1637).</p> + +<p>The park, being Crown property, was sold by order +of Parliament in 1652 for about £17,000 in three lots, +the purchasers being Richard Wilcox, John Tracy, and +Anthony Deane. Cromwell was a frequent visitor, and +on one occasion when he was driving in the park his +horses ran away, and he was thrown off his coach.</p> + +<p>After the Restoration the park was the daily resort of +all the gallantry of the court, and Pepys found driving +there very pleasant, although he complained of the dust. +The Ring, which is described in Grammont's <i>Memoirs</i> as +"the rendezvous of magnificence and beauty," was a +small enclosure of trees round which the carriages +circulated.</p> + +<p>Pepys writes April 4th, 1663:—</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>"After dinner to Hide Park ... At the Park was the King +and in another coach my Lady Castlemaine, they greeting one another +at every tour."</p></div> + +<p>This passage is illustrated in Wilson's <i>Memoirs</i>, 1719, +where we are told that when the coaches "have turned for +some time round one way, they face about and turn +t'other."</p> + +<p>John Macky, in his <i>Journey through England</i> (1724), +affirms that in fine weather he had seen above three +hundred coaches at a time making "the Grand Tour."<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">{67}</a></span></p> + +<p>Cosmo tells of the etiquette which was observed +among the company:—</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>"The King and Queen are often there, and the duke and duchess, +towards whom at the first meeting and no more all persons show the +usual marks of respect, which are afterwards omitted, although they +should chance to meet again ever so often, every one being at full liberty, +and under no constraint whatever, and to prevent the confusion and +disorder which might arise from the great number of lackies and footmen, +these are not permitted to enter Hyde Park, but stop at the gate +waiting for their masters."</p></div> + +<p>Oldys refers to a poem, printed in sixteen pages, +which was entitled "The Circus, or British Olympicks: a +Satyr on the Ring in Hyde Park." He says that the +poem satirizes many well-known fops under fictitious +names, and he raises the number of coaches seen on a fine +evening from Macky's three hundred to a thousand. The +Ring was partly destroyed at the time the Serpentine was +formed by Caroline, Queen of George II.</p> + +<p>Although the Ring has disappeared, Hyde Park has +remained from the Restoration period until the present +day the most fashionable place in London, but now the +whole park has been utilized.</p> + +<p>Charles II., in reviving the Stage, specially patronised +it himself, and it may be referred to here from its +connection with the Court. It has already been noticed +that previous monarchs did not visit the public theatres.</p> + +<p>Pepys was an enthusiastic playgoer, and the <i>Diary</i> +contains a mass of information respecting the Stage not +elsewhere to be found, so that we are able to trace the +various advances made in the revival of the Stage from +the incipient attempt of Davenant before the Restoration +to the improvements in scenery introduced by the rivalry +of the two managers, Davenant and Killigrew. +Immediately after the Restoration two companies of +actors were organized, who performed at two different +houses. One theatre was known as the King's House, +called by Pepys "The Theatre," and the other as the +Duke's House, called by Pepys "The Opera." Sir William<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">{68}</a></span> +Davenant obtained a patent for his company as "The +Duke's Servants," named after the Duke of York, and +Thomas Killigrew obtained one for "The King's +Servants."</p> + +<p>Killigrew's Company first performed at the "Red +Bull," Clerkenwell, and on November 8th removed to +Gibbons's Tennis Court in Bear Yard, which was entered +from Vere Street, Clare Market. Here the Company +remained till 1663, when they removed to Drury Lane +Theatre, which had been built for their reception, and +was opened on May 7th.</p> + +<p>Davenant's Company first performed at the Cockpit, +Drury Lane. They began to play at Salisbury Court +Theatre on November 13th, 1660, and went to Cobham +House, Blackfriars, on the site afterwards occupied by +Apothecaries' Hall, in January, 1661. They then removed +to the theatre in Portugal Row, built on the site of Lisle's +Tennis Court. Rhodes, a bookseller, who had formerly +been wardrobe keeper at the Blackfriars, had managed in +1659 to obtain a licence from the State, and John Downes +affirms that his company acted at the Cockpit, but +apparently he was acting at the Salisbury Court Theatre +before Davenant went there. Killigrew, however, soon +succeeded in suppressing Rhodes. Davenant planned a +new building in Dorset Gardens, which was close to +Salisbury Court, where the former theatre was situated. +He died, however, before it was finished, but the +company removed there in 1671, and the theatre was +opened on the 9th of November with Dryden's play, +<i>Sir Martin Mar-all</i>, which he had improved from a +rough draft by the Duke of Newcastle. Pepys had seen +it seven times in the years 1667-68. The Lincoln's Inn +Fields Theatre remained shut up until February, 1672, +when the King's Company, burnt out of Drury Lane +Theatre, made use of it till March, 1674, by which time +the new building in Brydges Street, Covent Garden, was +ready for their occupation.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">{69}</a></span></p> + +<p>When Tom Killigrew died in 1682 the King's and the +Duke's companies were united, and the Duke's servants +removed from Dorset Gardens to Drury Lane. The two +companies performed together for the first time on +November 16th.</p> + +<p>These constant changes are very confusing, and the +recital of them is not very entertaining, but it is necessary +to make the matter clear for the proper understanding of +the history of the time. The plan of the old theatres, +with their platform stage, was no longer of use for the +altered arrangements introduced at the Restoration. +Successive improvements in the form of the houses were +made, but we learn from Pepys that it was some time +before the roofing of the building was water-tight.</p> + +<p>The public theatres were open in the afternoon, three +o'clock being the usual hour for performance, and the +plays were therefore partly acted in the summer by +daylight. It was thus necessary to have skylights, but +these were so slight that heavy rain came and wetted +those below. On June 1st, 1664, Pepys wrote:—</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>"Before the play was done it fell such a storm of hail that we in the +middle of the pit were fain to rise, and all the house in a disorder."</p></div> + +<p>Davenant was the original planner of the modern +stage and its scenery, but Killigrew did his part in the +improvement carried out. He was somewhat jealous of +his brother manager, and on one occasion he explained to +Pepys what he himself had done:—</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>"Feb. 12th, 1666-67. The stage is now by his pains a thousand +times better and more glorious than ever heretofore. Now, wax candles, +and many of them; then not above 3 lbs. of tallow: now all things civil, +no rudeness anywhere; then as in a bear garden: then two or three +fiddlers, now nine or ten of the best: then nothing but rushes upon the +ground, and everything else mean; and now all otherwise; then the +Queen seldom and the King never would come; now, not the King only +for State but all civil people do think they may come as well as any."</p></div> + +<p>Killigrew complained that "the audience at his house +was not above half as much as it used to be before the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">{70}</a></span> +late fire," but in the following year (February 6th, 1667-8) +there were crowds at the other house. Pepys relates:—</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>"Home to dinner, and my wife being gone before, I to the Duke of +York's playhouse; where a new play of Etheridge's called 'She Would +if she Could,' and though I was there by two o'clock, there were 1,000 +people put back that could not have room in the pit."</p></div> + +<p>Pepys's criticisms on the plays he saw acted at these +theatres were not always satisfactory, and often they +were contradictory. At the same time he was apparently +judicious in the disposal of praise and blame on the +actors he saw. Betterton was his ideal of the perfect +actor, and, so far as it is possible to judge as to one +who lived so long ago, public opinion formed by those +capable of judging from contemporary report seems to +be in agreement with that of Pepys.</p> + +<p>Pepys was a great frequenter of taverns and inns, +as were most of his contemporaries. There are about +one hundred and thirty London taverns mentioned in +the <i>Diary</i>, but time has swept away nearly all of these +houses, and it is difficult to find any place which Pepys +frequented.</p> + +<p>These taverns may be considered as a link between +the Court end of London and the city, for Pepys +distributed his favours between the two places. King +Street, Westminster, was full of inns, and Pepys seems +to have frequented them all. Two of them—the "Dog" +and the "Sun"—are mentioned in Herrick's address to +the shade of "Glorious Ben":—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Ah, Ben!<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Say how or when<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Shall we thy guests<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Meet at these feasts<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Made at the Sun,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">The Dog, the Triple Tunne?<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Where we such clusters had<br /></span> +<span class="i0">As made us nobly wild, not mad!<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And yet such verse of thine<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Outdid the meate, outdid the frolic wine."<br /></span><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">{71}</a></span> +</div></div> + +<p>The "Three Tuns" at Charing Cross, visited by +Pepys, was probably the same house whose sign Herrick +changes to "Triple Tun."</p> + +<p>Among the Westminster taverns may be mentioned +"Heaven" and "Hell," two places of entertainment at +Westminster Hall; the "Bull Head" and the "Chequers" +and the "Swan" at Charing Cross; the "Cock" in Bow +Street and the "Fleece" in York Street, Covent Garden; +the "Canary" house by Exeter Change; and the "Blue +Balls" in Lincoln's Inn Fields.</p> + +<p>The majority of these taverns patronised by Pepys +were, however, in the city. There were several "Mitres" +in London, but perhaps the most interesting one was that +kept in Fenchurch Street by Daniel Rawlinson, a staunch +royalist, who, when Charles I. was executed, hung his +sign in mourning. Thomas Hearne says that naturally +made him suspected by the Roundheads, but "endeared +him so much to the Churchmen that he throve amain and +got a good estate." His son, Sir Thomas Rawlinson, was +Lord Mayor in 1700, and President of Bridewell +Hospital. His two grandsons, Thomas and Richard +Rawlinson, hold an honourable place in the roll of +eminent book collectors. The "Samson" in St. Paul's +Churchyard was another famous house, as also the +"Dolphin" in Tower Street, a rendezvous of the Navy +officers, which provided very good and expensive +dinners.</p> + +<p>The "Cock" in Threadneedle Street was an old-established +house when Pepys visited it on March 7th, +1659-60, and it lasted till 1840, when it was cleared +away. In the eighteenth century it was a constant +practice for the frequenters of the "Cock" to buy a chop +or steak at the butcher's and bring it to be cooked, the +charge for which was one penny. Fox's friend, the +notorious Duke of Norfolk, known as "Jockey of +Norfolk," often bought his chop and brought it here +to be cooked, until his rank was discovered.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">{72}</a></span></p> + +<p>The meetings of the Royal Society were held at +Gresham College in Bishopsgate Street, and then at +Arundel House in the Strand, which was lent to the +Society by Henry Howard of Norfolk, afterwards Duke +of Norfolk. Cosmo of Tuscany visited the latter place +for a meeting of the Royal Society, and he gives in his +<i>Travels</i> an interesting account of the manner in which the +proceedings were carried out.</p> + +<p>There are many references in Pepys's <i>Diary</i> to the +Lord Mayor and the Rulers of the City, and of the +customs carried out there.</p> + +<p>The Lord Mayor, aldermen, and common councilmen +visited Cosmo, who was staying at Lord St. Alban's +mansion in St. James's Square. His Highness, having +dined with the King at the Duke of Buckingham's, +kept the city magnates waiting for a time, but Colonel +Gascoyne, "to make the delay less tedious, had +accommodated himself to the national taste by ordering +liquor and amusing them with drinking toasts, till it +was announced that His Highness was ready to give +them audience." The description of the audience is very +interesting.</p> + +<p>Pepys lived in the city at the Navy Office in Seething +Lane (opposite St. Olave's, Hart Street, the church he +attended) during the whole of the time he was writing +his <i>Diary</i>, but when he was Secretary of the Admiralty +he went, in 1684, to live at the end of Buckingham +Street, Strand, in a house on the east side which looks on +to the river.</p> + +<p>Mr. John Eliot Hodgkin possesses the original lease +(dated September 30th, 1687) from the governor and +company of the New River for a supply of water through +a half-inch pipe, and four small cocks of brass led from +the main pipe in Villiers Street to Samuel Pepys's house +in York Buildings, also a receipt for two quarters' rent +for the same.<a name="FNanchor_8_8" id="FNanchor_8_8"></a><a href="#Footnote_8_8" class="fnanchor">[8]</a><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">{73}</a></span></p> + +<p>Two of the greatest calamities that could overtake +any city occurred in London during the writing of the +<i>Diary</i>, and were fully described by Pepys—viz., the +Plague of 1665 and the Fire of 1666. Defoe's most +interesting history of the plague year was written in +1722 at second hand, for the writer was only two years +old when this scourge overran London. Pepys wrote +of what he saw, and as he stuck to his duty during the +whole time that the pestilence continued, he saw much +that occurred.</p> + +<p>England was first visited with the plague in 1348-49, +which, since 1833 (when Hecker's work on the <i>Epidemics +of the Middle Ages</i> was first published in English), +has been styled the Black Death—a translation of the +German term "Der Schwarze Tod." This plague had the +most momentous effect upon the history of England +on account of the fearful mortality it caused. It +paralysed industry, and permanently altered the position +of the labourer. The statistics of the writers of the +Middle Ages are of little value, and the estimates of +those who died are various, but the statement that +half the population of England died from the plague +is probably not far from the truth. From 1348 to 1665 +plague was continually occurring in London, but it has +not appeared since the last date, except on a small +scale. Dr. Creighton gives particulars of the visitations +in London in 1603, 1625, and 1665, from which it +appears that the mortality in 1665 was more than +double that in 1603, and about a third more than that +in 1625.</p> + +<p>On the 7th of June, 1665, Pepys for the first time saw +two or three houses marked with the red cross, and the +words "Lord, have mercy upon us" upon the doors, and +the sight made him feel so ill-at-ease that he was forced +to buy some roll tobacco to smell and chew.<a name="FNanchor_9_9" id="FNanchor_9_9"></a><a href="#Footnote_9_9" class="fnanchor">[9]</a> On the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">{74}</a></span> +27th of this month he writes: "The plague encreases +mightily."</p> + +<p>According to the Bills of Mortality, the total number +of deaths in London for the week ending June 27th +was 684, of which number 267 were deaths from the +plague. The number of deaths rose week by week until +September 19th, when the total was 8,297, and the deaths +from the plague 7,165. On September 26th the total +had fallen to 6,460, and deaths from the plague to +5,533. The number fell gradually, week by week, till +October 31st, when the total was 1,388, and the deaths +from the plague 1,031. On November 7th there was a +rise to 1,787 and 1,414 respectively. On November 14th +the numbers had gone down to 1,359 and 1,050 respectively. +On December 12th the total had fallen to 442, +and deaths from plague to 243. On December 19th +there was a rise to 525 and 281 respectively. The total +of burials in 1665 was 97,306, of which number the +plague claimed 68,596 victims. Most of the inhabitants +of London who could get away took the first opportunity +of escaping from the town, and in 1665 there were many +places that the Londoner could visit with considerable +chance of safety. The court went to Oxford, and afterwards +came back to Hampton Court before venturing +to return to Whitehall. The clergy and the doctors fled +with very few exceptions, and several of those who +stayed in town doing the duty of others, as well as +their own, fell victims to the scourge.</p> + +<p>Queen Elizabeth would have none of these removals. +Stow says that in the time of the plague of 1563, "a +gallows was set up in the Market-place of Windsor to +hang all such as should come there from London."</p> + +<p>Dr. Hodges, author of <i>Loimologia</i>, enumerates among +those who assisted in the dangerous work of restraining +the progress of the infection were the learned Dr. Gibson, +Regius Professor at Cambridge; Dr. Francis Glisson, +Dr. Nathaniel Paget, Dr. Peter Barwick, Dr. Humphrey<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">{75}</a></span> +Brookes, etc. Of those he mentions eight or nine fell +in their work, among whom was Dr. William Conyers, +to whose goodness and humanity he bears the most +honourable testimony. Dr. Alexander Burnett, of +Fenchurch Street, one of Pepys's friends, was another +of the victims.</p> + +<p>Of those to whom honour is due special mention +must be made of Monk, Duke of Albemarle, Evelyn, +Pepys, Edmond Berry Godfrey; and there were, of +course, others.</p> + +<p>The Duke of Albemarle stayed at the Cockpit; +Evelyn sent his wife and family to Wotton, but he +remained in town himself, and had very arduous duties +to perform, for he was responsible for finding food and +lodging for the prisoners of war, and he found it difficult +to get money for these purposes. He tells in his <i>Diary</i> +how he was received by Charles II. and the Duke of +York on January 29th, 1665-6, when the pestilence had +partly abated and the court had ventured from Oxford +to Hampton Court. The King</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>"... ran towards me, and in a most gracious manner gave me his +hand to kisse, with many thanks for my care and faithfulnesse in his +service in a time of such greate danger, when everybody fled their employment; +he told me he was much obliged to me, and said he was several +times concerned for me, and the peril I underwent, and did receive my +service most acceptably (though in truth I did but do my duty, and O +that I had performed it as I ought!) After that his Majesty was pleased +to talke with me alone, neere an houre, of severall particulars of my +employment and ordered me to attend him againe on the Thursday +following at Whitehall. Then the Duke came towards me, and embraced +me with much kindnesse, telling me if he had thought my danger would +have been so greate, he would not have suffered his Majesty to employ +me in that station."</p></div> + +<p>Pepys refers, on May 1st, 1667, to his visit to Sir +Robert Viner's, the eminent goldsmith, where he saw +"two or three great silver flagons, made with inscriptions +as gifts of the King to such and such persons of quality +as did stay in town [during] the late plague for keeping<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">{76}</a></span> +things in order in the town, which is a handsome thing." +Godfrey was a recipient of a silver tankard, and he +was knighted by the King in September, 1666, for his +efforts to preserve order in the Great Fire. The remembrance +of his death, which had so great an influence on +the spread of the "Popish Plot" terror, is greater than +that of his public spirit during the plague and the fire.</p> + +<p>Pepys lived at Greenwich and Woolwich during the +height of the plague, but he was constantly in London. +How much these men must have suffered is brought +very visibly before us in one of the best letters Pepys +ever wrote:</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>"To Lady Casteret, from Woolwich, Sept. 4, 1655. The absence of +the court and emptiness of the city takes away all occasion of news, save +only such melancholy stories as would rather sadden than find your ladyship +any divertissement in the hearing. I have stayed in the city till +about 7,400 died in one week, and of them above 6,000 of the plague, and +little noise heard day or night but tolling of bells; till I could walk +Lumber Street and not meet twenty persons from one end to the other, +and not fifty on the Exchange; till whole families have been swept away; +till my very physician, Dr. Burnett, who undertook to secure me against +any infection, having survived the month of his own house being shut +up, died himself of the plague; till the nights, though much lengthened, +are grown too short to conceal the burials of those that died the day +before, people thereby constrained to borrow daylight for that service; +lastly, till I could find neither meat nor drink safe, the butchers being +everywhere visited, my brewer's house shut up, and my baker, with his +whole family, dead of the plague."</p></div> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/image_016.jpg" width="600" height="378" alt="" /> +<div class="caption"><p class='center'><span class="smcap">The Great Fire of London.</span></p> + +<p class='center'><i>The view shows Ludgate in the foreground, and in the distance St. Paul's Cathedral +and the Tower of St. Mary-le-Bow.</i></p></div> +</div> + +<p>Before the first calamity of pestilence was ended the +second calamity of fire commenced. On the night of +September 1st, 1666, many houses were destroyed. At +three o'clock in the morning of the 2nd (Sunday) his +servant Jane awoke Pepys to tell him that a great fire +was raging. Not thinking much of the information, he +went to sleep again, but when he rose at seven he found +that about 300 houses had been burned in the night. He +went first to the Tower, and saw the Lieutenant. Then +he took boat to Whitehall to see the King. He tells of +what he has seen, and says that, unless His Majesty will<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">{77}</a></span> +command houses to be pulled down, nothing can stop +the fire. On hearing this the King instructs him to go +to the Lord Mayor (Sir Thomas Bludworth) and command +him to pull down houses in every direction. The +Mayor seems to have been but a poor creature, and when +he heard the King's message</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>"... he cried like a fainting woman, 'Lord! what can I do? I am +spent: people will not obey me. I have been pulling down houses, but +the fire overtakes us faster than we can do it.'"</p></div> + +<p>Fortunately, most of the Londoners were more +vigorous than the Mayor. The King and the Duke of +York interested themselves in the matter, and did their +best to help those who were busy in trying to stop the +fire. Evelyn wrote on September 6th:—</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>"It is not indeede imaginable how extraordinary the vigilance and +activity of the King and the Duke was, even labouring in person, +and being present to command, order, reward, or encourage workmen, +by which he showed his affection to his people and gained theirs."</p></div> + +<p>Sir William Penn and Pepys were ready in resource, +and saw to the blowing up of houses to check the spread +of the flames, the former bringing workmen out of the +dockyards to help in the work. During the period when +it was expected that the Navy Office would be destroyed, +Pepys sent off his money, plate, and most treasured +property to Sir W. Rider, at Bethnal Green, and then he +and Penn dug a hole in their garden, in which they put +their wine and parmezan cheese.</p> + +<p>On the 10th of September, Sir W. Rider let it be +known that, as the town is full of the report respecting +the wealth in his house, he will be glad if his friends +will provide for the safety of their property elsewhere.</p> + +<p>On September 5th, when Evelyn went to Whitehall, +the King commanded him</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>"... among the rest to looke after the quenching of Fetter Lane end, +to preserve if possible that part of Holborn, whilst the rest of y<sup>e</sup> gentlemen +tooke their several posts, some at one part, some at another (for now +they began to bestir themselves and not till now, who hitherto had stood<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">{78}</a></span> +as men intoxicated with their hands acrosse) and began to consider that +nothing was likely to put a stop but the blowing up of so many houses +as might make a wider gap than any had yet been made by the ordinary +method of pulling them downe with engines."</p></div> + +<p>The daily records of the fire and of the movements +of the people are most striking. Now we see the river +crowded with boats filled with the goods of those who +are houseless, and then we pass to Moorfields, where are +crowds carrying their belongings about with them, and +doing their best to keep these separate till some huts +can be built to receive them. Soon paved streets and +two-storey houses were seen in Moorfields, the city +authorities having let the land on leases for seven +years.</p> + +<p>The wearied people complained that their feet +were "ready to burn" through walking in the streets +"among the hot coals."</p> + +<p>(September 5th, 1666.) Means were provided to save +the unfortunate multitudes from starvation, and on this +same day proclamation was made</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>"... ordering that for the supply of the distressed persons left +destitute ... great proportions of bread be brought daily, not only +to the former markets, but to those lately ordained. Churches and public +places were to be thrown open for the reception of poor people and their +goods."</p></div> + +<p>Westminster Hall was filled with "people's goods."</p> + +<p>On September 7th Evelyn went towards Islington +and Highgate</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>"... where one might have seen 200,000 people of all ranks and +degrees dispers'd and lying along by their heapes of what they could +save from the fire, deploring their losse, and tho' ready to perish for +hunger and destitution yet not asking one penny for reliefe, which to +me appear'd a stranger sight than any I had yet beheld."</p></div> + +<p>The fire was fairly got under on September 7th, but +on the previous day Clothworkers' Hall was burning, +as it had been for three days and nights, in one +volume of flame. This was caused by the cellars being<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">{79}</a></span> +full of oil. How long the streets remained in a +dangerous condition may be guessed by Pepys's +mention, on May 16th, 1666-7, of the smoke issuing +from the cellars in the ruined streets of London.</p> + +<p>The fire consumed about five-sixths of the whole +city, and outside the walls a space was cleared about +equal to an oblong square of a mile and a half in +length and half a mile in breadth. Well might Evelyn +say, "I went againe to y<sup>e</sup> ruines for it was no longer a +citty" (September 10th, 1666).</p> + +<p>The destruction was fearful, and the disappearance +of the grand old Cathedral of St. Paul's was among the +most to be regretted of the losses. One reads these +particulars with a sort of dulled apathy, and it requires +such a terribly realistic picture as the following, by +Evelyn, to bring the scene home to us in all its magnitude +and horror:</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>"The conflagration was so universal, and the people so astonish'd, that +from the beginning I know not by what despondency or fate, they hardly +stirr'd to quench it, so that there was nothing heard or seene but crying +out and lamentation, running about like distracted creatures without at +all attempting to save even their goods; such a strange consternation there +was upon them, so as it burned both in breadth and length, the churches, +public halls, Exchange, hospitals, monuments and ornaments, leaping +after a prodigious manner, from house to house, and streete to streete, +at greate distances one from y<sup>e</sup> other; for y<sup>e</sup> heat with a long set of faire +and warm weather had even ignited the aire and prepared the materials +to conceive the fire, which devour'd after an incredible manner houses, +furniture, and every thing. Here we saw the Thames cover'd with goods +floating, all the barges and boates laden with what some had time and +courage to save, as, on y<sup>e</sup> other, y<sup>e</sup> carts, &c., carrying out to the fields, +which for many miles were strew'd with moveables of all sorts, and tents +erecting to shelter both people and what goods they could get away. +Oh the miserable and calamitous spectacle! Such as haply the world +had not seene since the foundation of it, nor be outdon till the universal +conflagration thereof. All the skie was of a fiery aspect, like the top +of a burning oven, and the light seene above 40 miles round about for +many nights. God grant mine eyes may never behold the like, who now +saw above 10,000 houses all in one flame; the noise and cracking and +thunder of the impetuous flames, y<sup>e</sup> shrieking of women and children, +the hurry of people, the fall of towers, houses and churches was like a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">{80}</a></span> +hideous storme and the aire all about so hot and inflam'd that at the +last one was not able to approach it, so that they were forc'd to stand +still and let y<sup>e</sup> flames burn on, which they did neere two miles in length +and one in breadth. The clouds also of smoke were dismall and reach'd +upon computation neer 50 miles in length. Thus I left it this afternoone +burning, a resemblance of Sodom, or the last day. It forcibly call'd +to mind that passage—<i>non enim hic habemus stabilem civitatem</i>: the +ruines resembling the picture of Troy. London was, but is no more."—(Sept. +3rd, 1666.)</p></div> + +<p>Can we be surprised at the bewildered feelings of the +people? Rather must we admire the practical and heroic +conduct of the homeless multitude. It took long to +rebuild the city, but directly anything could be done the +workers were up and doing.</p> + +<p>An Act of Parliament was passed "for erecting a +Judicature for determination of differences touching +Houses burned or demolished by reason of the late Fire +which happened in London" (18 and 19 Car. II., +cap. 7), and Sir Matthew Hale was the moving spirit in +the planning it and in carrying out its provisions when it +was passed. Burnet affirms that it was through his +judgment and foresight "that the whole city was raised +out of its ashes without any suits of law" (<i>History of +his Own Time</i>, Book ii.). By a subsequent Act (18 and +19 Car. II., cap. 8) the machinery for a satisfactory +rebuilding of the city was arranged. The rulings of the +judges appointed by these Acts gave general satisfaction, +and after a time the city was rebuilt very much on the +old lines, and things went on as before.<a name="FNanchor_10_10" id="FNanchor_10_10"></a><a href="#Footnote_10_10" class="fnanchor">[10]</a> At one time +it was supposed that the fire would cause a westward +march of trade, but the city asserted the old supremacy +when it was rebuilt.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/image_017.jpg" width="600" height="450" alt="" /> +<div class="caption"><p class='center'><span class="smcap">South-West View of Old St. Paul's.</span></p></div> +</div> + +<p>Three great men, thoroughly competent to give<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">{81}</a></span> +valuable advice on the rebuilding of the city, viz., Wren, +Robert Hooke, and Evelyn, presented to the King +valuable plans for the best mode of arranging the new +streets, but none of these schemes was accepted. One +cannot but regret that the proposals of the great architect +were not carried out.</p> + +<p>With the reference to the Plague and the Great Fire +we may conclude this brief account of the later Stuart +London. The picturesque, but dirty, houses were +replaced by healthier and cleaner ones. The West End +increased and extended its borders, but the growth to +the north of Piccadilly was very gradual. All periods +have their chroniclers, but no period has produced such +delightful guides to the actual life of the town as the +later half of the seventeenth century did in the pages +of Evelyn and Pepys. It must ever be a sincere regret +to all who love to understand the more intimate side +of history that Pepys did not continue his <i>Diary</i> to a +later period. We must, however, be grateful for what we +possess, and I hope this slight and imperfect sketch of +Pepys's London may refresh the memories of my readers +as to what the London of that time was really like.</p></div> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">{82}</a></span></p> + +<hr class="chap" /> +<div class="chapter"> + +<h2><a name="THE_OLD_LONDON_BRIDGES" id="THE_OLD_LONDON_BRIDGES">THE OLD LONDON BRIDGES</a></h2> + +<p class='p3'><span class="smcap">By J. Tavenor-Perry</span></p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"London Bridge is broken down,<br /></span> +<span class="i2">Dance o'er my Lady Lee.<br /></span> +<span class="i0">London Bridge is broken down<br /></span> +<span class="i2">With a gay Ladee."<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<div> +<img class="drop-cap" src="images/drop-a.png" width="100" height="95" alt="" /> +</div> + +<p class="drop-cap">At the beginning of the last century only three +bridges spanned the Thames in its course +through London, and of these two were scarcely +fifty years old; but before the century closed +there were no less than thirteen bridges across the river +between Battersea and the Pool. The three old bridges +have been rebuilt, and even some of the later ones have +been reconstructed, whilst one has been removed bodily, +and now spans the gorge of the Avon at Bristol. Of all +these bridges unfortunately only two are constructed +wholly of stone, and can lay claim to any architectural +merit; and even one of these two has recently had the +happy effect of its graceful arches destroyed by the +addition of overhanging pathways. Of the rest, some are +frankly utilitarian—mere iron girder railway bridges, with +no attempt at decoration beyond gilding the rivets—whilst +the others have their iron arches and construction +disguised with coarse and meaningless ornaments. One +only of the iron bridges is in anyway worthy of its +position; in its perfect simplicity and the bold spans +of its three arches, Southwark Bridge bears comparison +with the best in Europe, but the gradients and approaches +are so inconvenient that it is even now threatened with +reconstruction.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">{83}</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/image_018.jpg" width="600" height="356" alt="" /> + +<p class="img_link"><a href="images/image_018_full.jpg">View larger version.</a></p> + +<div class="caption"><p class='center'><span class="smcap">Sir John Evelyn's Plan for Rebuilding London after the Great Fire.</span></p></div> +</div> + +<p>Exactly when the first bridge was built across the +Thames at London we can only surmise, for even tradition +is silent on the subject, and we only know of the existence +of one at an early date by very casual references, which, +however, do not help us to realise the character of the +work. Though no evidence remains of a Roman bridge, +it seems unlikely, having regard to the importance of +London, and to the fact that the great roads from the +south coast converged on a point opposite to it, on the +other side of the river, that they should have been left +to end there without a bridge to carry them over. The +difficulties of building across a great tidal river had +not prevented the Romans from bridging the Medway at +Rochester, as remains actually discovered have proved; +and if no evidences of Roman work were actually met +with in the rebuilding of London Bridge or the removal +of the old one, this may be due to the fact that each +successive bridge—and there have been at least three +within historical times—was built some distance further +up the stream than its predecessor.</p> + +<p>We know, however, with certainty that a bridge was +standing in the reign of King Ethelred from the references +made to it, and we may fairly assume that this +must have been the Roman bridge, at least so far as its +main construction was concerned; and, like other Roman +bridges standing at that time in Gaul and in other parts +of England, it would have consisted merely of piers of +masonry, with a wooden roadway passing from one to +the other. It was still standing, of sufficient strength +for resistance, when the Danes under Canute sailed up +the river, who, being unable to force a passage, tradition +says—and antiquaries have imagined they could discover +traces of it—cut a ship canal through the Surrey marshes +from Bermondsey to Battersea, and passed their fleet +through that way.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84"></a></span> +<img src="images/image_019.jpg" width="383" height="600" alt="" /> +<div class="caption"><p class='center'><span class="smcap">Fig. 1—The Undercroft of St. Thomas of Canterbury +on the Bridge.</span></p></div> +</div> + +<p>The history of the bridge only opens with the +beginning of the twelfth century. According to tradition,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">{85}</a></span> +the convent of St. Mary Overie, Southwark, had been +originally endowed with the profits of a ferry across the +river, and had in consequence undertaken the duty of +maintaining the bridge in a proper state of repair when +a bridge was built. This convent was refounded in 1106 +as a priory of Austin Canons; and it is not a little +remarkable, having regard to the duties it had undertaken, +that of its founders, who were two Norman Knights, one +was William de Pont de l'Arche. At the Norman town, +where stood his castle and from which he took his name, +was a bridge of twenty-two openings, erected, it was +said, by Charles the Bald, but most likely a Roman +work, across the Seine at the highest point reached by +the tide. It is a further curious coincidence that this +same William appears as a witness to a deed executed +by Henry I., excusing the manor of Alciston, in Sussex, +from paying any dues for the repairs of London Bridge.</p> + +<p>It is recorded that in 1136 the bridge was burnt, +which may perhaps merely mean that the deck was +destroyed, whilst the piers remained sufficiently uninjured +to allow of the structure being repaired; but in 1163 it +had become so dangerous that Peter of Colechurch undertook +the erection of a new bridge, which he constructed +of elm timber. This sudden emergence of Peter from +obscurity to carry out so important an engineering work +is as dramatic as is that of St. Bénezet, who founded +the confraternity of <i>Hospitaliers pontifices</i>, which undertook +the building of bridges and the establishment of +ferries. According to legend, this saint, although then +only a young shepherd, essayed to bridge the Rhone +at Avignon, and the ruined arches of his great work +are still among the sights of that city. Peter may have +possessed many more qualifications for building than a +shepherd could have acquired, as large ecclesiastical +works were in progress in London throughout his life, +which he must have observed and perhaps profited by; +but this is only surmise, as of his history, except in<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">{86}</a></span> +connection with his great work, we know no more than +the fact that he was the chaplain of St. Mary +Colechurch. His contemporary, Randulphus de Decito, +Dean of London, says that he was a native of the city, so +that it is scarcely likely that he had acquired his skill +abroad; but we are told that he traversed the country +to collect the moneys for his undertaking, and he may +thus have obtained some knowledge of the many Roman +bridges which still survived, or even have seen the great +bridge which Bishop Flambard had recently erected +across the Wear at Durham. His selection as the architect +of the earlier bridge of 1163 may perhaps not be +due in any way to his especial engineering skill, but +rather to some intimate connection with the priory of +St. Mary Overie, whose canons were primarily responsible +for the bridge repairs; indeed, since he is merely described +as the chaplain of his church, he may himself have +been one of the canons. But be the cause what it may—and +it was not his success in erecting this first bridge, +for it soon became dilapidated—thirteen years after its +erection he started afresh, on a site further up the river, +to erect a bridge of stone. In 1176, two years before +St. Bénezet began his great bridge at Avignon, he +commenced his work, and thirty-three years passed before +its completion. Whether the delay was due to lack of +funds or the incapacity of the architect we do not know, +though probably to both, for before Peter's death King +John, who had manifested considerable interest in the new +bridge, had urged Peter's dismissal, and, under the advice +of the Archbishop of Canterbury, suggested the appointment +of Isembert of Saintes to complete the work. This +Isembert was credited with the erection of the great +bridge across the Charante at Saintes, although that +bridge was undoubtedly a Roman one, and all he appears +to have done was to turn arches between the original +piers, and make it a stone bridge throughout. The same +master was said to have built another bridge at La<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">{87}</a></span> +Rochelle, and had evidently gained much experience in +such engineering work; and it is perhaps a misfortune +that the King's advice was neglected, as a skilled +architect, which Peter certainly was not, might have +saved the city of London much eventual loss and trouble. +Peter was, however, suffered to continue the bridge +until his death in 1205, when a commission of three +city merchants completed the work in four years.</p> + +<p>The bridge which these many years of labour had +produced was in every way unsuitable to its position, +and mean as compared to similar buildings erected elsewhere. +Lacking the skill to form proper foundations, +Peter had spread them out into wide piers, which formed +an almost continuous dam, through the openings in +which the water rushed like a mill-race. The result was +that the scour soon affected the stability of the piers, +which had to be protected round by masses of masonry +and chalk in the form of sterlings, which still further +contracted the narrow waterways. The passage of the +bridge by boat—"shooting the bridge," it was called—was +always a dangerous operation; and a writer of the +last century speaks of "the noise of the falling waters, +the clamours of the water-men, and the frequent shrieks +of drowning wretches," in describing it. So imperfectly +built was the bridge that within four years of its completion +King John again interfered, and called upon the +Corporation properly to repair it; and from this time, or +perhaps from Peter's death, when the three merchants +were elected to complete the work, the Corporation +appears to have taken over the responsibility of the +bridge; and for this purpose they were endowed with +certain properties, which became the nucleus of the present +"Bridge House Estates." The increasing dilapidation of +the bridge, the debris of fallen arches, and the rubbish +and waste material which was suffered to accumulate, +still further impeded the natural flow of the water, and +little effort at improvement was ever made. Of the three<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">{88}</a></span> +widest arches of the bridge, which were called the navigable +locks, the most important had been the one nearest +to the city end, which became known as the "Rock Lock," +and it acquired that name on account of a popular +delusion that in its fairway was a growing and vegetating +rock, which was nothing more than an accumulation of +fallen ruins, which caught and held the floating refuse +carried to and fro by the tides. And thus year after +year the river dam became more solid, and the waterfall +increased in height until it was said by one who knew +them both that it was almost as safe to attempt the +Falls of Niagara as to shoot London Bridge.</p> + +<p>As years went by, not only did the waterways +become congested, but the roadway above began to be +encroached on by houses and other buildings, for which +a bridge was most unfitted. Two edifices, however, from +the first formed necessary, or at least customary, adjuncts +to such a building—the bridge gate and the bridge +chapel. It was a Roman custom to erect gates at one +end, or in the centre of their bridges—not triumphal +arches, but twin gates, such as they built to their walled +towns, and such as stood at the end of the bridge at +Saintes, when it was altered by Isembert. Such gates +as survived in mediæval times were generally fortified, +and formed the model for imitation by mediæval +builders; and such a gate was erected at the Southwark +end of London, which, under its name of Bridge Gate, +became one of the principal gates of the city. It was +erected directly on one of the main piers, and was +therefore of a substantial character, but suffered much +in the various attacks made upon London from the +Kentish side. In 1436 it collapsed, together with the +Southwark end of the bridge, but was rebuilt at the +cost of the citizens, chief among whom was Sir John +Crosby, the builder of Crosby House; and although the +gate was again in great part destroyed by the attack +on London made in 1471 by Fauconbridge, one of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">{90}</a></span> +towers of Crosby's gate survived until the eighteenth +century. In 1577 the tower which stood at the north +end of the bridge, and on which were usually displayed +the heads of traitors, became so dilapidated that it was +taken down, and the heads then on it were transferred +to the Bridge Gate, henceforward known as "Traitors' +Gate." It was upon the earlier gate that the head of +Sir Thomas More was affixed, when heads were so +common that even his, as we know from its adventures +until buried in the Roper vault at Canterbury, was thrown +into the river to make room for a crowd of successors.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89"></a></span> +<img src="images/image_020.jpg" width="600" height="368" alt="" /> +<div class="caption"><p class='center'><span class="smcap">Fig. 2—The Surrey End of London Bridge.</span></p></div> +</div> + +<p>Of the chapel, which the founder of the bridge is +said to have erected, no account survives; and although +it was believed at the time of the destruction of the +bridge that his remains were discovered, no satisfactory +evidence of their identity was forthcoming. The first +chapel must have perished in one of the early misfortunes +which befel the fabric, as no trace of any detail +which could be referred to the thirteenth century was +discovered when the pier on which the chapel stood was +removed. The drawings made by Vertue before the +last remains were cleared away show a structure which +may be assigned to a date but little later than the +Chapel Royal of St. Stephen at Westminster, to which, +in many particulars, it must have borne a considerable +resemblance. It consisted of two storeys, both apparently +vaulted, measuring some sixty by twenty feet, with an +apsidal termination. The undercroft was nearly twenty +feet high, and our illustration (<a href="#Page_84">fig. 1</a>) of a restoration +of it, prepared from Vertue's drawings and dimensions, +will give some idea of its beauty. The upper chapel +seems to have been similar, but much more lofty, and +had an arcade running round the walls under the +windows. The buttresses of the exterior were crowned +with crocketted pinnacles, and the effect of the whole, +standing high above the surging waters of the river, +must have been as striking as it was beautiful. The<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">{91}</a></span> +chapel was built on the centre pier of the bridge, on +the east side, and the chapels were entered from the +roadway, the lower one by a newel staircase, on which +was found the holy-water stoup when the bridge was +destroyed in the last century. At the Reformation the +church was converted into a warehouse, but, thanks to +the solidity of its construction, it remained almost +intact till it was swept away with the houses in 1756.</p> + +<p>Of the other buildings on the bridge there is little +to say, for, although they made up a picturesque +composition, they were of a most flimsy character, +and wanting at the last in any architectural merit. Our +illustration (<a href="#Page_89">fig. 2</a>), taken from an oil painting by Scott, +belonging to the Fishmongers' Company, gives the +principal group on the Surrey side, and in the sixth +plate of Hogarth's <i>Marriage a la Mode</i> we get a view +through the open window of another part in the last +stage of dilapidation. There was, however, one exception +to the commonplace among them, in a timber +house, made in Holland, which was known as "Nonsuch +House." It was erected, it was said, without nails, and +placed athwart the roadway, hanging at the ends far +over the river, with towers and spires at the angles, +and over the great gate the arms of Queen Elizabeth. +The top of the main front was surmounted, at a later +date, with a pair of sundials, which bore the, for once, +appropriate motto—"Time and Tide wait for no man."</p> + +<p>Had old London Bridge survived to this day, its +waterfalls would doubtless have been utilized to +generate electricity, and the idea of setting the Thames +on fire realized in lighting the streets of London by its +means; but the value of the force of the falling water +was not overlooked by our ancestors. As early as 1582 +one Peter Corbis, a Dutchman, erected an engine, +worked by the stream, which lifted the water to a +reservoir, whence it was distributed by means of leaden +pipes through the city. With many alterations and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">{92}</a></span> +improvements, these water works continued in use until +the last century, and it was stated before the House of +Commons, in 1820, that more than 26 millions of hogsheads +of the pellucid waters of the river were thus daily +delivered to the city householders for their domestic +use.</p> + +<p>Such, shortly, is the history of the fabric, which, +after enduring for more than six hundred years, was +swept away to make room for the present structure. +For any accounts of the many stirring events which +occurred on it, or about it, we have no space here. Are +they not written in the chronicles of England?</p> + +<p>In the Fishmongers' Hall is preserved a valuable +memorial of the ancient structure, of which we give an +illustration (<a href="#Page_93">fig. 3</a>) by permission of the Worshipful +Company. It consists of a chair with a seat of Purbeck +marble, reminiscent in its arrangements of the coronation +chair, on which is engraved this inscription:—</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>"I am the first stone that was put down for the foundation of old +London Bridge in June 1176 by a priest named Peter who was vicar of +Colechurch in London and I remained there undisturbed safe on the same +oak piles this chair is made from till the Rev<sup>d.</sup> William John Jollife +curate of Colmer Hampshire took me up in July 1832 when clearing +away the old bridge after new London Bridge was completed."</p></div> + +<p>The framework of the chair gives a pictorial chronicle +of the city bridges; the top rail of the back shows old +London Bridge after the removal of the houses, below +which are new London Bridge, Southwark and old +Blackfriars Bridges. The arms of the city are carved +at the top, whilst the monogram of Peter of Colechurch +and the device of the Bridge House Estates complete +the decoration. This device, which appears to have been +also the old badge of Southwark, was sometimes displayed +upon a shield, thus:—Az., an annulet ensigned +with a cross patée, Or; interlaced with a saltire enjoined +in base, of the second. We give an illustration of this +in <a href="#Page_98">figure 5</a>.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">{93}</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/image_021.jpg" width="391" height="600" alt="" /> +<div class="caption"><p class='center'><span class="smcap">Fig. 3—The Foundation Stone Chair.</span></p> + +<p class='center'><i>At the Fishmongers' Hall.</i></p></div> +</div> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">{94}</a></span></p> + +<p>Westminster Bridge seems a very recent structure as +compared to that of London, but it is the next in +point of date. The growing importance of Westminster +as the seat of the Court and Parliament had made the +necessity for an approach to the south side of the +Thames, independent of the circuitous and narrow ways +of London, long apparent. In the reign of Charles II. +the question was seriously considered, to the alarm of +the Mayor and Corporation of the city, who feared that +their vested interests were endangered, and "that London +would be destroyed if carts were allowed to cross the +Thames elsewhere"; but, knowing their man, they +devoted some of their ample funds to secure that +monarch's successful opposition to the scheme. In the +middle of the eighteenth century, however, when there +was no Stuart to buy off, the idea was revived, and in +1739, one Monsieur Labelye, a Swiss engineer—English +engineers having, apparently, not sufficient experience—commenced +a new stone bridge. His mode of putting +in his foundations may have been scientific, but was +certainly simple. The bridge piers were partly built in +floating barges moored above the place where they were +to be permanently erected. The barges were then sunk, +their sides knocked out, and the piers completed. It +is needless to say that the result was not satisfactory, +and for years before the old bridge was pulled down +many of its arches were filled up with a picturesque, but +inconvenient, mass of shoring. Whether Henry, Earl +of Pembroke, who laid the foundation stone, and of whom +it was said no nobleman had a purer taste in architecture, +was in any way responsible for the design, we +cannot tell; but a French traveller of discrimination, who +criticised the work after its completion, came to the +conclusion that the peculiarly lofty parapets with which +the bridge was adorned were so designed that they might +check an Englishman's natural propensity to suicide by +giving him time for reflection while surmounting such an<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">{95}</a></span> +obstacle. It will be noticed in our illustration (<a href="#Page_97">fig. 4</a>), +which is also taken from a painting by Scott, that the +piers are crowned by alcoves, which provided a shelter +from the blasts which blew over the river and from the +mud scattered from the roadway. These were, doubtless, +a survival of the spaces left above the cutwaters of +mediæval bridges as refuges for pedestrians from vehicles +when the roadways were very narrow, and those who +remember the old wooden bridges of Battersea and +Putney can appreciate their value.</p> + +<p>The city Corporation, which had so strenuously +opposed the erection of a bridge at Westminster as +unnecessary, set to work, as soon as that became an +accomplished fact, to improve their own communications +across the river. First, as we have seen, they cleared +away the houses and other obstructions on old London +Bridge, and next they started to build themselves a new +bridge at Blackfriars. The land on both sides of the +river at the point selected was very low and most unsuitable +for the approaches, that on the north side being +close to the mouth of the Fleet ditch, which there +formed a creek large enough, in 1307, to form a haven +for ships. The new bridge was begun in 1760, from the +designs of Robert Mylne, a Scotch architect, who made +an unsuccessful attempt to give an architectural effect +to the structure by facing the piers with pairs of Ionic +columns, standing on the cutwaters. The steep gradients +of the bridge, necessitated by the lowness of the banks, +made such a decoration peculiarly unsuitable, as each +pair of columns had to be differently proportioned in +height, although the cornice over them remained of the +same depth throughout. But, in spite of its appearance +of lightness, the structure was too heavy for its +foundations, and for years this bridge rivalled that of +Westminster in the picturesqueness of its dilapidation. +The piers had been built on platforms of timber, so +that when London Bridge was rebuilt, and the river<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">{97}</a></span> +flowed in an unchecked course, these became exposed to +the scour and were soon washed out.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96"></a></span> +<img src="images/image_022.jpg" width="600" height="395" alt="" /> +<div class="caption"><p class='center'><span class="smcap">Fig. 4—Old Westminster Bridge.</span></p></div> +</div> + +<p>Waterloo Bridge was completed in 1817, and still +remains unaltered and as sound as when its builders +left it. It is fortunate that the approach on the north +side was an easy one, as but a short interval occurred +between the Strand, at almost its highest point, and the +river bank, which it was easy to fill up, with the result +that the bridge passes across the river at a perfect level. +The foundations of the piers were properly constructed +by means of coffer-dams, and no sign of failure has ever +shown itself in its superstructure. The architect repeated +the use of the orders, as at Blackfriars, but with a more +fortunate result, as, the work being straight throughout, +no variations in the proportions were required, and he was +wise enough to select the Doric order as more suitable +to his purpose, and as suggesting more solidity.</p> + +<p>Londoners profess to be somewhat proud of Waterloo +Bridge, and it is a tradition among them that Canova, +when he saw it, said that it was worth a journey across +Europe to see. It, therefore, seems the more incredible +that the grandchildren of those who could build such a +bridge and appreciate such a man, could have erected, +and even affect to admire, such a monstrosity as the +Tower Bridge.</p> + +<p>The last of the older bridges to be built was that +of Southwark, which was the speculation of a private +company, who hoped to profit by the continuously +congested state of London Bridge; but the steepness of +the gradients and the inconvenience of the approaches +from the city made it from the first a failure. It was +the first bridge in London to be constructed in iron; +its model being the great single-span bridge across the +Wear at Sunderland. It is in three great arches, the +centre one being 240 feet across, or four feet more than +that at Sunderland, and the mass of metal is such that<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">{98}</a></span> +an ordinary change of temperature will raise the arches +an inch, and summer sunshine much more.</p> + +<p>Of the more recent bridges there is nothing to say +worth the saying. The Thames, which was the busy and +silent highway of our forefathers, is still silent, but +busy no longer, and the appearance of its bridges is +now no one's concern, since no one sees them. So long +as they will safely carry the tramcar or the motor 'bus +from side to side, they may become uglier even than they +now are, if only that make them a little more cheap.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/image_023.jpg" width="166" height="200" alt="" /> +<div class="caption"><p class='center'><span class="smcap">Fig. 5—Badge of Bridge House Estates.</span></p></div> +</div></div> + +<hr class="chap" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">{99}</a></span></p> + + +<div class="chapter"> +<h2><a name="THE_CLUBS_OF_LONDON" id="THE_CLUBS_OF_LONDON">THE CLUBS OF LONDON</a></h2> + +<p class='p3'><span class="smcap">By Sir Edward Brabrook, C.B., F.S.A.</span></p> + + +<div> +<img class="drop-cap" src="images/drop-t.png" width="100" height="118" alt="" /> +</div> + +<p class="drop-cap">These are of many kinds. We suppose they are +all more or less the lineal descendants of the +taverns and coffee-houses that we associate with +the memory of Ben Jonson, Dryden, Addison, +and Samuel Johnson.</p> + +<div class="poem" style="clear: both;"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Souls of poets dead and gone,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">What elysium have ye known,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Happy field or mossy cavern,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Choicer than the Mermaid tavern?"<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>The wits' coffee-house, where Claud Halcro carried a +parcel for Master Thimblethwaite in order to get a sight +of glorious John Dryden. Button's coffee-house, where the +"Guardian" set up his Lion's Head. The Cock and the +Cheshire Cheese, which resound with Johnson's sonorous +echoes. If, indeed, the tavern has developed into the +club, that palace of luxury, one can only say, as in the +famous transmutation of alphana to equus, "C'est diablement +changé sur la route."</p> + +<p>Intermediate is the host of clubs meeting occasionally, +as the Breakfast Club, and the numerous dining clubs, +one of which, the Royal Naval Club, established in 1765, +is said to be a renewal of an earlier one dating from 1674. +"The Club," which comes down from the time of Johnson +and Reynolds, and still uses a notification to a new member +drawn up by Gibbon; the Royal Society Club; the X +Club, which consisted of ten members of the Athenæum; +the Society of Noviomagus, and the Cocked Hat Club,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">{100}</a></span> +consisting of members of the Society of Antiquaries; the +Cosmos Club of the Royal Geographical Society; the +Colquhoun Club of the Royal Society of Literature; and +a host of others in connection with learned societies, most +of which are content to add the word "club" to the +name of the society. Of another, but cognate, kind is +the famous "Sublime Society of Beef Steaks," which was +founded in 1735, and died (of inanition) in 1867. The +members were not to exceed twenty-four in number. Beef +steaks were to be the only meat for dinner. The broiling +began at 2.0, and the tablecloth was removed at 3.30. In +1785 the Prince of Wales, in 1790 the Duke of York, in +1808 the Duke of Sussex, became members. It had a +laureate bard in the person of Charles Morris, elected a +member in 1785, who died in 1838 at the age of 93 years. +In early times the members appeared in the uniform of +a blue coat and buff waistcoat, with brass buttons bearing +a gridiron and the motto "Beef and Liberty." The hour +of meeting became later gradually, till in 1866 it was +fixed at 8 o'clock; then the club quickly died out. +Founded by John Rich, harlequin and machinist at +Covent Garden, it had counted among its members William +Hogarth, David Garrick, John Wilkes, John Kemble, +William Linley, Henry Brougham (Lord Chancellor), and +many other distinguished men. The Ettrick Shepherd +gave an account, in 1833, of a visit he paid to this club:—</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>"They dine solely on beefsteaks—but what glorious beefsteaks! They +do not come up all at once—no, nor half-a-dozen times; but up they come +at long intervals, thick, tender, and as hot as fire. And during these +intervals the members sit drinking their port, and breaking their wicked +wit on each other, so that every time a new service of steaks came up, +we fell to them with much the same zest as at the beginning. The dinner +was a perfect treat—a feast without alloy."</p></div> + +<p>Another somewhat similar club, though on a more +modest scale, deserves a cursory notice, inasmuch as it had +to do with a state of things that has passed away beyond +hope of recovery. About 1870 the August Society of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">{101}</a></span> +the Wanderers was established with the motto, "Pransuri +vagamur." It selected all the remaining old inns at +which a dinner could be obtained, and dined at each in +succession. It also had a bard, Dr. Joseph Samuel Lavies, +and, like the Beefsteaks, has left a poetic record of its +convivialities. Of all such records, however, the salt +quickly evaporates, and it is as well to leave them +unquoted.</p> + +<p>Our main object in this chapter is to state a few +incidents in the history of some of the great London clubs. +The oldest existing club appears to be White's, founded +in 1697. Boodle's, Brooks's, the Cocoa Tree, and Arthur's +date from 1762 to 1765. Most of the others belong to +the nineteenth century. The Guards' Club, which was +the first of the service clubs, dates from 1813, but that +is confined to officers of the Brigade of Guards. It was +soon, however, followed by the establishment of a club +for officers of other branches of military service.</p> + +<p>We have it on good authority that before that club +was founded officers who came to London had no places +of call but the old hotels and coffee-houses. On May 31st, +1815, General Lord Lynedoch, Viscount Hill, and others +united in the establishment of a General Military Club. +On the 24th January, 1816, it was extended to the Navy, +and on the 16th February in the same year it adopted +the name of the United Service Club. On the 1st March, +1817, the foundation stone of its house in Charles Street +was laid. In November, 1828, it entered into occupation +of its present house in Pall Mall, and handed over the +Charles Street house to the Junior United Service Club. +Its premises in Pall Mall were largely extended in +1858-59, and have recently been greatly improved at a +cost of £20,000. The Club holds a lease from the Crown +to 4th January, 1964. It has a fine collection of eighty-two +pictures and busts, many of them of great merit as works +of art, others of interest as the only portraits of the +originals. The library contains several splendid portraits<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">{102}</a></span> +of Royal personages. The King is the patron of the +Club, and, as Prince of Wales, was a member of it. The +Prince of Wales, the Duke of Connaught, and Prince +Christian, are now members. Ten high officers of state +and persons of distinction are honorary members. Twelve +kings and thirty princes are foreign honorary members. +The number of ordinary members is 1,600, but officers +below the rank of Commander in the Royal Navy, or +Major in the Army, are not eligible. The entrance fee +is £30, and the annual subscription £10. Members have +the privilege of introducing guests. Games of hazard are +not allowed to be played, or dice to be used. Play is +not to exceed 2s. 6d. points at whist, or 10s. per hundred +at bridge.</p> + +<p>As we have seen, this club shortly became full, and +a Junior United Service Club was formed in April, 1827, +on the same lines, under the patronage of the Duke of +Wellington, but admitted officers of junior rank, and in +1828 entered into occupation of the premises in Charles +Street, vacated by the Senior, on payment of £15,000. It +erected its new house in 1856 at a cost of £81,000. The +entrance fee is £40, and annual subscription eight guineas. +It was not many years after its establishment that the +list of candidates for membership of the Junior Club +became so long that the necessity for the establishment +of a third service club was felt. Sir E. Barnes and a few +officers, just returned from India, joined in the movement, +and in 1838 the Army and Navy Club was opened at +the corner of King Street and St. James's Square—the +house memorable as the scene of the party given by +Mrs. Boehm on the night the news of the Battle of +Waterloo arrived. Sir E. Barnes, who was its first +president, died the same year. In 1851 the club moved +to its present stately building, the site of which includes +that of a house granted by Charles II. on the 1st of +April, in the seventeenth year of his reign, to Nell +Gwynne, where Evelyn saw him in familiar discourse with<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">{103}</a></span> +her. The club possesses a mirror that belonged to her, +and a portrait by Sir Peter Lely, which was supposed +to be of her, until it was discovered to be one of Louise +de Querouaille, Duchess of Portsmouth, and is also rich +in pictures, statuary, and other works of art—among them, +two fine mantelpieces carved by Canova, and a miniature +of Lady Hamilton found in Lord Nelson's cabin after +his death; it has also autograph letters of Nelson and +Wellington. It derives its popular name of the "Rag +and Famish" from a tradition that Captain Duff came +late one night asking for supper, and being discontented +with the bill of fare, called it a rag and +famish affair. In memory of the event he designed +a button which used to be worn by many members, +and bore the device of a ragged man devouring +a bone. Napoleon III. was an honorary member of the +club, and frequently used it. He presented it with a fine +piece of Gobelin tapestry in 1849. The regular number +of members is 2,400. The club has a scheme for granting +annuities or pensions to its servants.</p> + +<p>Of the group of social clubs bearing names derived +from the original proprietors of the club-houses—as +White's, Boodle's, Brooks's, and Arthur's—Brooks's may +be taken as a specimen. A roll of its members from the +date of its foundation in 1764 to 1900 has recently been +published under the title <i>Memorials of Brooks's</i>, and +contains much interesting information. The editors, +Messrs. V. A. Williamson, S. Lyttelton and S. Simeon, +state that the first London Clubs were instituted with the +object of providing the world of fashion with a central +office for making wagers, and a registry for recording +them. In their early days gambling was unlimited. +Brooks's was not political in its origin. The twenty-seven +original members included the Dukes of Roxburgh, +Portland, and Gordon. In the 136 years 3,465 members +have been admitted.</p> + +<p>The original house was on or near the site of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">{104}</a></span> +present Marlborough Club, and Almack was the first +manager or master. About 1774 he was succeeded by +Brooks, from whom the club derives its name. He died +in 1782, and was succeeded by one Griffin. In 1795 the +system was altered, and six managers were appointed. +The present house in St. James' Street was constructed +in 1889-90, when 2, Park Place, was incorporated with it. +The entrance fee in 1791 was five guineas, and was raised +successively in 1815, 1881, 1892, and 1901, to nine, fifteen, +twenty-five and thirty guineas. The subscription was at +first four guineas, raised in 1779 to eight guineas, and in +1791 to ten guineas.</p> + +<p>An offshoot of Brooks's is the Fox Club, a dining club, +probably a continuation of an earlier Whig Club. Up +to 1843 it met at the Clarendon Hotel, and since then at +Brooks's. It is said to have been constituted for the +purpose of paying Fox's debts, for which his friends, in +1793, raised £70,000. Sir Augustus Keppel Stephenson +was the secretary of this club from 1867 until his death +in 1904. He was the son of a distinguished member of +Brooks's, who had joined that club in 1818, the Fox +Club in 1829, was secretary of the Sublime Society of +Beef Steaks, and the last man to wear Hessian boots.</p> + +<p>The Travellers' Club dates from 1819, the Union from +1821, and the United University from 1822.</p> + +<p>The Union Club is composed of noblemen, members +of Parliament, and gentlemen of the first distinction and +character who are British subjects, and has 1,250 members. +Election is by open voting in the committee. Foreign +and Colonial persons of distinction may be made +temporary honorary members. The entrance fee is +twenty-one guineas; the annual subscription ten guineas.</p> + + +<p>The United University Club has 1,000 members, of +whom 500 belong to Oxford and 500 to Cambridge. The +King is a member. Cabinet ministers, bishops, judges, +etc., may be admitted without ballot. All members of +either University are qualified to be candidates, but only<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">{105}</a></span> +graduates, persons who have resided in college or hall +for two years, holders of honorary degrees, and students +in civil law of above three years' standing, are qualified +to be members. The club has recently rebuilt its house +at the corner of Suffolk Street and Pall Mall East.</p> + +<p>The Athenæum was originated by Mr. John Wilson +Croker, after consultation with Sir Humphry Davy, +president of the Royal Society, and was founded in 1824 +for the association of individuals known for their scientific +or literary attainments, artists of eminence in any class +of the fine arts, and noblemen and gentlemen distinguished +as liberal patrons of science, literature, or the arts. It +is essential to the maintenance of the Athenæum, in +conformity with the principles upon which it was originally +founded, that the annual introduction of a certain number +of persons of distinguished eminence in science, literature, +or the arts, or for public services, should be secured. +Accordingly, nine persons of such qualifications are +elected by the committee each year. The club entrusts +this privilege to the committee, in the entire confidence +that they will only elect persons who shall have attained +to distinguished eminence in science, literature, or the arts, +or for public services. The General Committee may also +elect princes of the blood Royal, cabinet ministers, +bishops, speakers of the House of Commons, judges, and +foreign ambassadors, or ministers plenipotentiary of not +less than three years' residence at the Court of St. James's, +to be extraordinary members; and may invite, as honorary +members during temporary residence in England, the +heads of foreign missions, foreign members of the Royal +Society, and not more than fifteen other foreigners or +colonists of distinction. The ordinary members of the +club are 1,200 in number. The entrance fee is thirty +guineas, and the annual subscription eight guineas. The +presidents for the time being of the Royal Society, of +the Society of Antiquaries, and of the Royal Academy +of Arts, if members, are ex-officio members of the General<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">{106}</a></span> +Committee. An Executive Committee of nine is selected +from the General Committee to manage the domestic and +other ordinary affairs of the club. No elected member +can remain on the General Committee more than three +consecutive years, unless he is a member of the Executive +Committee, in which case he may be re-elected for a +second term of three years. No higher stake than half-a-guinea +points shall be played for. No game of mere +chance shall be played in the house for money. No +member shall make use of the club as an address in any +advertisement.</p> + +<p>The history of the club has been told by the Rev. +J. G. Waugh in an interesting book printed for private +circulation in 1900. Its first house was 12, Waterloo +Place, where it remained until 1827, when it obtained its +present site. Its success was so great that within four +months of the preliminary meeting in 1824 it had a list +of 506 members, including the then Prime Minister and +seven persons who afterwards became Prime Ministers. +By 1827 it was full, and had a list of 270 candidates +waiting for election. The present house was planned by +Decimus Burton, and an attic storey was added to it in +1899-1900. It is a successful building, striking attention +by the statue of Minerva over the porch, the frieze, and +the noble hall and grand staircase. The hall was re-decorated +in 1891 under the direction of Sir L. Alma +Tadema. Originally, a soirée was held every Wednesday, +to which ladies were admitted. That has long been discontinued, +and, as a satirical member observed, "Minerva +is kept out in the cold, while her owls are gorging within." +Among the members of the club have been the following +great actors: Macready, Mathews, Kemble, Terry, Kean, +Young, and Irving.</p> + +<p>The Oriental Club was also established in 1824, at +a meeting held eight days after that at which the +Athenæum had been established. Sir John Malcolm +presided. The club was intended for the benefit of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">{107}</a></span> +persons who had been long resident abroad in the service +of the Crown, or of the East India Company. By May, +1826, it had 928 members, and in that year it took +possession of the site of 18, Hanover Square, and employed +Mr. B. D. Wyatt as the architect of its house. Its history +has been written by Mr. Alexander F. Baillie, in a book +published in 1901. Mr. Wyatt provided a grand staircase, +but no smoking-room, and only one billiard-room. +At that time and until 1842 the club provided its members +gratuitously with snuff at a cost of £25 per year. In 1874 +the present smoking-room was opened; and now the +handsome drawing-room is a place where those can retire +who desire solitude, and the smoking-room and billiard-rooms +are overcrowded. The club has a fine library. +It claims among its members the prototype of Colonel +Newcome. The members have a custom of securing a +table for dinner by inverting a plate upon it.</p> + +<p>In 1855 the Oriental Club agreed to take over, without +entrance fee, the members of the Alfred Club, which had +been established in 1808, and was then being dissolved. +Nearly 400 members availed themselves of the +offer. The history of that club has some points of +interest. It was largely intended for literary men, but +it is said that Canning, vexed at overhearing a member +asking who he was, gave it the nickname of the "Half-read" +Club, which stuck to it. Its early career was +prosperous, and by 1811 it had 354 candidates +and only six vacancies; but its popularity waned. +The real cause of its dissolution was the firm +conservatism of the committee. They would not +recognise the growing demand of accommodation for +smokers. The clubhouse, No. 23, Albemarle Street, had +been built and arranged in the days when no such +accommodation had been considered necessary, and the +committee resolutely refused to make any concession +to the members who desired to smoke.</p> + +<p>The Garrick Club was founded in 1831. It was<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">{108}</a></span> +instituted for the general patronage of the drama; for +the purpose of combining the use of a club on economical +principles with the advantage of a literary society; for +bringing together the supporters of the drama; and for +the foundation of a national library, with works on +costume. The number of members is limited to 650, +who pay an entrance fee of twenty guineas, and an annual +subscription of ten guineas. The club is more than +usually hospitable, as it allows a member to invite three +visitors to dinner, and admits the public to see its +magnificent collection of dramatic pictures daily from +10 to 1.</p> + +<p>The Carlton Club was established in 1832. It is +famous as the rallying ground for the Conservative party, +the temple of Toryism. From it, and its resources, +candidates in that interest derive much encouragement +and support, and it may not unreasonably be inferred that +some of that encouragement and support is material as +well as moral.</p> + +<p>The Reform Club was established in 1837, and then +held the same position towards the Liberal party. It +was instituted for the purpose of promoting the social +intercourse of the Reformers of the United Kingdom. +All candidates are to declare themselves to be reformers, +but no definition of a "reformer" is given. If, however, +a member is believed not to be a reformer, fifty members +may call a general meeting for his expulsion. Members +of Parliament and peers may be admitted by general +ballot, with priority of election. The committee elect +each year two gentlemen of distinguished eminence for +public service, or in science, literature, or arts. The +Political Committee of fifty members elect each year +two persons who have proved their attachment to the +Liberal cause by marked and obvious services. Other +members are elected by general ballot, one black +ball in ten excluding. The club has 1,400 members. It +has a fine library. It has liberal regulations as to the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">{109}</a></span> +admission of guests, and ladies may be admitted to view +the club from 11.0 a.m. to 5.0 p.m. Members may inspect +the books and accounts and take extracts from them. +The admission fee is £40, and the annual subscription +ten guineas.</p> + +<p>The Conservative Club was established in 1840, and +the National Club in 1845. The object of the National +Club is to promote Protestant principles, and to encourage +united action among Protestants in political and social +questions by establishing a central organisation to obtain +and spread information on such questions, by affording +facilities for conference thereon, and by providing in the +metropolis a central place of meeting to devise the fittest +means for promoting the object in view. Its members +must hold the doctrines and principles of the reformed +faith, as revealed in Holy Scripture, asserted at the +Reformation, and generally embodied in the Articles of +the Church of England. It has a general committee, +house committee, library committee, prayer and religious +committee, wine committee, finance committee, and +Parliamentary committee. The General Committee has +power to elect as honorary members of the club not +more than twenty persons distinguished by their zeal and +exertions on behalf of the Protestant cause; these are +mostly clergymen. All meetings of committees are to +be opened with prayer. The household are to attend the +reading of the Word of God and prayers morning and +evening in the committee room. The Parliamentary +committee are to watch all proceedings in Parliament and +elsewhere affecting the Protestant principles of the club. +Its fundamental principles are declared to be:</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>(1) The maintenance of the Protestant constitution, +succession, and faith.</p> + +<p>(2) The recognition of Holy Scripture in national +education.</p> + +<p>(3) The improvement of the moral and social +condition of the people.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">{110}</a></span></p></div> + +<p>The club is singular in having these definite religious +purposes, and no doubt has in its time done much for +the Protestant cause; but there is a little incongruity +between the earnestness of its purpose and the self-indulgence +which club life almost necessarily implies; +and religious opinion, which claims to be the most stable +of all things, is really one of the most fluid. Most men, +who think at all, pass through many phases of it in their +lives. It would not be surprising if this early earnestness +had somewhat cooled down.</p> + +<p>Another group of clubs consists of those the +members of which are bound together by a common +interest in some athletic sport or pursuit—as the Marylebone +Cricket Club, which dates from 1787; the Alpine +Club, which was founded in 1857; the Hurlingham Club, +in 1868; and to these may perhaps be added, as approximating +to the same class, the Bath Club, 1894.</p> + +<p>The gradual filling up of old clubs, which we observed +in the case of the service clubs, and the congested state +of their lists of candidates, leading to long delay before +an intending member had the chance of election, has led +to the establishment of junior clubs; thus, in 1864, the +Junior Athenæum and the Junior Carlton were founded.</p> + +<p>A further development has been the establishment +of clubs for women. The Albemarle Club, founded in +1874, admits both men and women, and adjusts its lists +of candidates so as to provide for the election of nearly +equal numbers of both.</p> + +<p>The Marlborough Club should also be mentioned +specially, as it was founded by the King, and no person +can be admitted a member except upon His Majesty's +special approval.</p> + +<p>The Authors' Club was established in 1891 by the +late Sir Walter Besant, and is especially noted for its +house dinners, at which some person of distinction is +invited to be the guest of the club.</p> + +<p>Altogether, the clubs of London are very numerous,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">{111}</a></span> +and we have only been able to draw attention to +the peculiarities of a few of them. Like every other +human institution, they are subject to continual +change, and there are pessimists who go about saying +that they are decaying and losing their popularity +and their usefulness. The long lists of candidates +on the books of the principal clubs do not lend much +colour to this suggestion. Social habits alter with every +generation of men, and it is possible that many men do +not use their clubs in the same way that the founders +did, but the fact remains that they do use them, and that +clubs still form centres of pleasure and convenience to +many.</p> + +<p>One particular in which the change of social habits +is especially noticeable is with respect to gaming. This, +as we have seen, was almost the <i>raison d'être</i> of some +of the early clubs, and there are numerous tales of the +recklessness with which it was pursued, and the fortunes +lost and won at the gaming table. We have quoted from +one or two clubs the regulations which now prevail, and +similar regulations are adopted in most of the other clubs. +Games of chance are wholly prohibited; and limits are +provided to the amount that may be staked on games of +cards. Each club has also a billiard room.</p> + +<p>With respect to smoking, the habitués of clubs have +experienced a great change. Formerly the smoking +room, if any, was small and far away; now the luxury +of the club is concentrated in it, and the question is +rather in what rooms smoking is not to be allowed. Very +few clubs retain the old tradition that smoking is a thing +to be discouraged and kept out of sight.</p> + +<p>Other signs of change are the increase in the cost +of membership and the later hours for dining. It need +hardly be said that the clubs pay great attention to their +kitchens. We have it on the authority of Major A. +Griffiths (<i>Fortnightly Review</i>, April, 1907) that the +salary of the chef is between £200 and £300 a year.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">{112}</a></span></p> + +<p>The customs of the clubs with regard to the admission +of visitors vary. At one end of the scale is the Athenæum, +which will not allow its members to give a stranger even +a cup of cold water, and allows of conversation with +strangers only in the open hall or in a small room by the +side of the doorway. At the other end are clubs which +provide special rooms for the entertainment of visitors, +and encourage their members to treat their friends +hospitably, and to show them what the club is able to +do in the matter of cooking and wines.</p> + +<p>The social ethics of clubs vary in like manner. In +some clubs, notably those of the Bohemian type, but +including several which would claim not to belong to that +group, mere membership of the club is a sufficient +introduction to justify a member in addressing another, +and conversation in the common rooms of the club +becomes general. This is delightful—within limits: it +is not always possible to create by the atmosphere of the +club a sentiment that will restrain all its members from +sometimes overstepping those bounds of mutual courtesy +and consideration which alone can make such general +conversation altogether pleasant. The greater clubs go +to the opposite extreme, and members of them may meet +day after day for many years in perfect unconsciousness +of the existence of each other; yet, even in these, the +association of those who know each other outside the +club, but without its opportunities would rarely meet, +though they have similar interests and pursuits, is a very +desirable and useful thing. Many an excellent measure, +originating in the mind of one member, has been matured +by conversation with others, to the general good. So may +the Clubs of London continue to prosper and flourish.</p></div> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113">{113}</a></span></p> + +<hr class="chap" /> +<div class="chapter"> +<h2><a name="THE_INNS_OF_OLD_LONDON" id="THE_INNS_OF_OLD_LONDON">THE INNS OF OLD LONDON</a></h2> + +<p class='p3'><span class="smcap">By Philip Norman, LL.D.</span></p> + + + +<div> +<img class="drop-cap" src="images/drop-t.png" width="100" height="118" alt="" /> +</div> + +<p class="drop-cap">To write a detailed account of London inns and +houses of entertainment generally would +require not a few pages, but several volumes. +The inns, first established to supply the modest +wants of an unsophisticated age, came by degrees to fulfil +the functions of our modern hotels, railway stations, and +parcel offices; they were places of meeting for business +and social entertainment—in short, they formed a +necessary part of the life of all Londoners, and of all +who resorted to London, except the highest and the lowest. +The taverns, successors of mediæval cook-shops, were +frequented by most of the leading spirits of each +generation from Elizabethan times to the early part +of the nineteenth century, and their place has now been +taken by clubs and restaurants. About these a mass of +information is available, also on coffee-houses, a development +of the taverns, in which, for the most part, they were +gradually merged. As to the various forms of public-house, +their whimsical signs alone have amused literary +men, and perhaps their readers, from the time of <i>The +Spectator</i> until now. In this chapter I propose to confine +my remarks to the inns "for receipt of travellers," so +often referred to by John Stow in his <i>Survey of London</i>, +which, largely established in the fifteenth and sixteenth +centuries, continued on the same sites, mostly until years +after the advent of railways had caused a social revolution.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114">{114}</a></span> +These inns, with rare exceptions, had a galleried +courtyard, a plan of building also common on the +Continent, which came perhaps originally from the East. +In such courtyards, as we shall see, during Tudor times +theatrical performances often took place, and in form +they probably gave a hint to the later theatres.</p> + +<p>Before the fifteenth century it was usual for +travellers to seek the hospitality of religious houses, the +great people being lodged in rooms set apart for them, +while the poorer sort found shelter in the guest-house. +But as time went on this proved inadequate, and inns on +a commercial basis came into existence, being frequented +by those who could hardly demand special consideration +from the religious houses, and were not fitting recipients +of charity. Naturally enough, these inns, when once their +usefulness became recognised, were soon to be found in +the main thoroughfares leading out of the metropolis, and +they were particularly plentiful in Southwark on each side +of what we now call the Borough High Street, extending +for a quarter of a mile or more from London Bridge along +the main road to the south-eastern counties and the +Continent. The first thus established, and one of the +earliest in this country, had to some extent a religious +origin—namely, the</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i20">"Gentle hostelrye<br /></span> +<span class="i0">That hight the Tabard, fasté by the Belle,"<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>about which and about the Southwark inns generally I +propose now to say a few words, for although well known, +they are of such extreme interest that they demand a +foremost place in an account of this kind. From the +literary point of view the "Tabard" is immortalized, owing +to the fact that Chaucer has selected it as the starting-point +of his pilgrims in <i>The Canterbury Tales</i>. Historically, +it may be mentioned that as early as the year 1304 the +Abbot and Convent of Hyde, near Winchester, purchased +in Southwark two tenements, on the sites of which he +built for himself a town dwelling, and at the same time,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115">{115}</a></span> +it is believed, a hostelry for the convenience of travellers. +In 1307 he obtained license to build a chapel at or by +the inn, and in a later deed we are told that "the abbott's +lodginge was wyninge to the backside of the Tabarde +and had a garden attached." From that time onwards +frequent allusions can be found to this house, the sign +of which (a sleeveless coat, such as that worn by heralds) +got somehow corrupted into the Talbot, a species of dog, +by which it was known for a couple of centuries or more, +almost to the time of its final destruction. Although the +contrary has been asserted, the inn was undoubtedly burnt +in the Great Southwark Fire of 1676, but was rebuilt +soon afterwards in the old fashion, and continued to be +a picturesque example of architecture until 1875, when +the whole was swept away, hop merchants' offices and +a modern "old Tabard" now occupying the site.</p> + +<p>Equal in interest to the last-named inn was the "White +Hart." At the one Chaucer gave life and reality to a +fancied scene; at the other occurred an historical event, +the bald facts of which Shakespeare has lighted up with +a halo of romance. The White Hart appears to have +dated from the latter part of the fourteenth century, +the sign being a badge of Richard II., derived from his +mother, Joan of Kent. In the summer of 1450 it was +Jack Cade's headquarters while he was striving to gain +possession of London. Hall, in his <i>Chronicle</i>, records this, +and adds that he prohibited "murder, rape and robbery by +which colour he allured to him the hartes of the common +people." It was here, nevertheless, that "one Hawaydyne +of sent Martyns was beheaded," and here, during +the outbreak, a servant of Sir John Fastolf, who had +property in the neighbourhood, was with difficulty saved +from assassination. His chattels were pillaged, his wife +left with "no more gode but her kyrtyll and her smook," +and he thrust into the forefront of a fight then raging +on London Bridge, where he was "woundyd and hurt +nere hand to death." Cade's success was of short duration;<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_116" id="Page_116">{116}</a></span> +his followers wavered, he said, or might have said, in the +words attributed to him by Shakespeare (2 Henry VI., +act iv., scene 8), "Hath my sword therefore broken +through London gate that you should leave me at the +White Hart in Southwark?" The rebellion collapsed, +and our inn is not heard of for some generations. Want +of space prevents our recording the various vicissitudes +through which it passed, and the historic names connected +with it, until the time of the Southwark Fire of 1676, +when, like the "Tabard," it was burnt down, but rebuilt +on the old foundations. In 1720 Strype describes it as +large and of considerable trade, and it so continued until +the time when Dickens, who was intimately acquainted +with the neighbourhood, gave his graphic description of +Sam Weller at the White Hart in the tenth chapter of +<i>Pickwick</i>. In 1865-66 the south side of the building was +replaced by a modern tavern, but the old galleries on +the north and east sides remained until 1889, being +latterly let out in tenements.</p> + +<p>There were several other galleried inns in Southwark, +dating at least from the time of Queen Elizabeth, which +survived until the nineteenth century, but we only have +space briefly to allude to three. The "King's Head" and +the "Queen's Head" was each famous in its way. The +former had been originally the "Pope's Head," the sign +being changed at the Reformation. In 1534 the Abbot +of Waverley, whose town house was not far off, writes, +apparently on business, that he will be at the "Pope's +Head" in Southwark—eight years afterwards it appears +as the "King's Head." In a deed belonging to Mr. G. Eliot +Hodgkin, F.S.A., the two names are given. In the +sixteenth and seventeenth centuries the house belonged +to various noteworthy people; among the rest, to Thomas +Cure, a local benefactor, and to Humble, Lord Ward. It +was burnt in the Great Southwark Fire, and the last +fragment of the galleried building, erected immediately +afterwards, was pulled down in January, 1885.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_117" id="Page_117">{117}</a></span></p> + +<p>The "Queen's Head" was the only one of the +Southwark houses we are describing that escaped the +Fire of 1676, perhaps owing to the fact that, by way +of precaution, a tenement was blown up at the gateway. +It stood on the site of a house called the "Crowned +or Cross Keys," which in 1529 was an armoury or +store-place for the King's harness. In 1558 it had a +brew-house attached to it, and had lately been rebuilt. +In 1634 the house had become the "Queen's Head," and +the owner was John Harvard, of Emmanuel College, +Cambridge, who afterwards migrated to America, and +gave his name to Harvard University, Massachusetts. +About this time it was frequented by carriers, as we learn +from John Taylor, "the water-poet." The main building, +destroyed in 1895, was found to be of half-timbered +construction, dating perhaps from the sixteenth century. +A galleried portion, also of considerable age, survived +until the year 1900.</p> + +<p>Of another Southwark inn, the "George," we can +fortunately speak in the present tense. It seems to have +come into existence in the early part of the sixteenth +century, and is mentioned with the sign of "St. George" +in 1554:—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"St. George that swindg'd the Dragon, and e'er since<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Sits on his horseback at mine hostess' door."<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>The owner in 1558 was Humfrey Colet, or Collet, who +had been Member of Parliament for Southwark. Soon +after the middle of the seventeenth century, in a book +called <i>Musarum Deliciæ, or the Muses' Recreation</i>, compiled +by Sir John Mennes (Admiral and Chief Comptroller +of the Navy) and Dr. James Smith, appeared some lines, +"upon a surfeit caught by drinking bad sack at 'the +George' in Southwark." Perhaps the landlord mended +his ways; in any case, the rent was shortly afterwards +£150 a year—a large sum for those days. The "George" +was a great coaching and carriers' inn. Only a fragment<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_118" id="Page_118">{118}</a></span> +of it, but a picturesque one, now exists; it is still galleried, +and dates from shortly after the Southwark Fire of 1676. +The rest of the building was pulled down in 1889-90. +All the inns to which allusion has been made were +clustered together on the east side of the Borough High +Street, the gateways of those most distant from each +other being only about 140 yards apart.</p> + +<p>Another leading thoroughfare from London to the +east was the road through Aldgate to Whitechapel. Here, +though the houses of entertainment were historically far +less interesting than those of Southwark, they flourished +for many years. Where a modern hotel with the same +sign now stands, next to the Metropolitan railway station +on the north side of Aldgate High Street, there was once +a well-known inn, the "Three Nuns," so called, perhaps, +from the contiguity of the nuns of St. Clare, or <i>sorores +minores</i>, who gave a name to the Minories. The +"Three Nuns" inn is mentioned by Defoe in his <i>Journal +of the Plague</i>, which, though it describes events that +happened when he was little more than an infant, has +an air of authenticity suggesting personal experience. +We are told by him that near this inn was the "dreadful +gulf—for such it was rather than a pit"—in which, during +the Plague of 1665, not less than 1,114 bodies were buried +in a fortnight, from the 6th to the 20th of September. +Throughout the eighteenth and the early part of the +nineteenth centuries this house was much frequented by +coaches and carriers. The late Mr. Edwin Edwards, who +etched it in 1871, was told by the landlord that a four-horse +coach was then running from there to Southend +during the summer months. A painting of the holy nuns +still appeared on the sign-board. The house was rebuilt +soon after the formation of the Metropolitan Railway. +A short distance west of the "Three Nuns," at 31, Aldgate +High Street, the premises of Messrs. Adkin and Sons, +wholesale tobacconists, occupy the site of the old "Blue +Boar" coaching inn, which they replaced in 1861. The<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119">{119}</a></span> +sculptured sign of the "Blue Boar," let into the wall +in front, was put up at the time of the rebuilding. The +former inn, described on a drawing in the Crace collection +as the oldest in London, is held by some to be the same +as that referred to in an order of the Privy Council to +the Lord Mayor, dated from St. James's, September 5th, +1557, wherein he is told to "apprehende and to comitt +to safe warde" certain actors who are about to perform +in "a lewde Playe called a Sacke full of Newse" at +the "Boar's Head" without Aldgate.</p> + +<p>A few years ago, at No. 25, the entrance might still +be seen of another famous inn called the "Bull," formerly +the "Black Bull." Above the gateway was a fine piece +of ironwork, and the old painted sign was against the +wall of the passage. This house flourished greatly a +little before the advent of railways, when Mrs. Anne +Nelson, coach proprietor, was the landlady, and could +make up nearly two hundred beds there. Most of her +business was to Essex and Suffolk, but she also owned +the Exeter coach. She must have been landlady on the +memorable occasion when Mr. Pickwick arrived in a cab +after "two mile o' danger at eightpence," and it was +through this very gateway that he and his companions +were driven by the elder Weller when they started on +their adventurous journey to Ipswich. The house is now +wholly destroyed and the yard built over.</p> + +<p>A common sign in former days was the "Saracen's +Head." We shall have occasion to refer to several in +London. One of them stood by Aldgate, just within +the limits of the city. Here a block of old buildings +is in existence on the south side, which once formed +the front of a well-known coaching inn, with this sign. +The spacious inn yard remains, the house on the east +side of its entrance having fine pilasters. From the +"Saracen's Head," Aldgate, coaches plied to Norwich as +long ago as 1681, and here there is, or was quite recently, +a carrier's booking office.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_120" id="Page_120">{120}</a></span></p> + +<p>Another thoroughfare which, within the memory of +some who hardly admit that they are past middle age, contained +several famous inns, was that leading to the north, +and known in its various parts as Gracechurch Street and +Bishopsgate Street Within and Without. One of the best +known was the "Cross Keys" in Bishopsgate Street, mentioned +in the preface to Dodsley's <i>Old Plays</i> as a house +at which theatrical performances took place. It was here +that, in the latter part of the sixteenth century, Bankes +exhibited the extraordinary feats of his horse Marocco. +One of them, if we may believe an old jest-book, was +to select and draw forth Tarlton with its mouth as "the +veriest fool in the company." In more modern times, until +the advent of railways, the "Cross Keys" was a noted +coaching and carriers' establishment. Destroyed in the +Great Fire, and again burnt down in 1734, but rebuilt in +the old style, it was still standing on the west side of the +street, immediately south of Bell Yard, when Larwood and +Hotten published their <i>History of Signboards</i> in 1866. +Another inn with this sign stood appropriately near the +site of St. Peter's Church in Wood Street, Cheapside, +and was pulled down probably about the same time as +the more famous house in Gracechurch Street.</p> + +<p>Of equal note was the "Spread Eagle," the site of +which has mostly been absorbed by the extension of +Leadenhall Market. Like the "Cross Keys," it was burnt +in the Great Fire, but rebuilt in the old style with an +ample galleried yard. In the basement some mediæval +arches still remained. At the "Spread Eagle" that +original writer George Borrow had been staying with +his future wife, Mrs. Mary Clarke, and various friends, +when they were married at St. Peter's Church, Cornhill, +on April 23rd, 1840, her daughter, Henrietta, signing the +register. Before its destruction in 1865 it had been for +some time a receiving office of Messrs. Chaplin and Horne. +The site, of about 1,200 square feet, was sold for no +less a sum than £95,000. Another Gracechurch inn, the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_121" id="Page_121">{121}</a></span> +"Tabard," which long ago disappeared, had, like the +immortal hostelry in Southwark, become the "Talbot," +and its site is marked by Talbot Court.</p> + +<p>In Bishopsgate Street Within three galleried inns +lingered long enough to have been often seen by the +writer. These were the "Bull," the "Green Dragon," +and the "Four Swans," each with something of a history, +and to them might be added the picturesque, though less +important, "Vine" and the "Flower Pot," from which +last house a seventeenth century trade token was issued. +The "Bull," the most southern of these inns, all of which +were on the west side of the highway, was at least as +old as the latter part of the fifteenth century, for in +one of the chronicles of London lately edited by +Mr. C. L. Kingsford, I find it, under the date 1498, +associated with a painful incident—namely, the execution +of the son of a cordwainer, "dwellyng at the Bulle in +Bisshoppesgate Strete," for calling himself the Earl of +Warwick. Hall gives his name as Ralph Wilford. +Anthony Bacon, elder brother of Francis, during the year +1594 hired a lodging in Bishopsgate Street, but the fact +of its being near the "Bull," where plays and interludes +were performed, so troubled his mother that for +her sake he removed to Chelsea. Shortly afterwards, +as may be learnt from <i>Tarlton's Jests</i>, the old drama +called "The Famous Victories of Henry the Fifth" was +here played, "wherein the judge was to take a boxe on +the eare, and because he was absent that should take +the blow, Tarlton himselfe, ever forward to please, tooke +upon him to play the judge, besides his own part of +the clown." The "Bull" was the house of call of old +Hobson, the carrier, to whose rigid rule about the letting +of his saddle horses we are supposed to owe the phrase, +"Hobson's Choice." Milton wrote his epitaph in the well-known +lines beginning:—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Here lies old Hobson; Death hath broke his girt,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And here, alas! hath laid him in the dirt."<br /></span><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_122" id="Page_122">{122}</a></span> +</div></div> + +<p>In his second edition of <i>Milton's Poems</i>, p. 319, Wharton +alludes to Hobson's "portrait in fresco" as having then +lately been in existence at the inn, and it is mentioned +in <i>The Spectator</i>, No. 509. There is a print of it representing +a bearded old man in hat and cloak with a money +bag, which in the original painting had the inscription, +"The fruitful mother of an hundred more." He +bequeathed property for a conduit to supply Cambridge +with water; the conduit head still exists, though not in +its original position. In 1649, by a Council of War, +six Puritan troopers were condemned to death for a +mutiny at the "Bull." The house remained till 1866.</p> + +<p>Further north, at No. 86, was the "Green Dragon," +the last of the galleried inns that survived in Bishopsgate +Street. It is mentioned in De Laune's <i>Present State of +London</i>, 1681, as a place of resort for coachmen and +carriers, and I have before me an advertisement sheet +of the early nineteenth century, showing that coaches +were then plying from here to Norwich, Yarmouth, +Cambridge, Colchester, Ware, Hertford, Brighton, and +many other places. There is a capital etching of the +house by Edwin Edwards. It was closed in 1877, its +site being soon afterwards built over. At the sale of the +effects eleven bottles of port wine fetched 37s. 6d. each. +The "Four Swans," immediately to the north of the inn +last named, although it did not survive so long, remained +to the end a more complete specimen of its class, having +three tiers of galleries perfect on each side, and two +tiers at the west end. The "water-poet" tells us that +in 1637 "a waggon or coach" came here once a week +from Hertford. Other references to it might be quoted +from books of the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, +but the story told on an advertisement sheet issued by +a former landlord about a fight here between Roundheads, +led by Ireton, and a troop of Royalists, is apocryphal.</p> + +<p>Not far off, in Bishopsgate Street Without, there +was until lately a "Two Swan" inn yard, and a "One<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123">{123}</a></span> +Swan" with a large yard—an old place of call for carriers +and waggons. These lingered on until the general clearance +by the Great Eastern Railway Company a few +years ago, when the remains of Sir Paul Pindar's mansion, +latterly a tavern, were also removed; the finely-carved +timber front and a stuccoed ceiling finding their way into +the Victoria and Albert Museum. Another old Bishopsgate +house was the "White Hart," near St. Botolph's +Church, a picturesque building with projecting storeys, +and in front the date 1480, but the actual structure was +probably much less ancient. It was drawn by J. T. Smith +and others early in the nineteenth century, and did not +long survive. The site is still marked by White Hart +Court. On the opposite side of the way was an inn, +the "Dolphin," which, as Stow tells us, was given in +1513 by Margaret Ricroft, widow, with a charge in favour +of the Grey Friars. It disappeared in the first half of +the eighteenth century. The old "Catherine Wheel," +a galleried inn hard by, mentioned by De Laune in 1681, +was not entirely destroyed till 1894.</p> + +<p>Another road out of London richly furnished with +inns was that from Newgate westward. The first one +came to was the "Saracen's Head" on Snow Hill, an +important house, to which the late Mr. Heckethorn +assigned a very early origin. Whether or not it existed +in the fourteenth century, as he asserts, it was certainly +flourishing when Stow in his <i>Survey</i> described it as "a +fair and large inn for receipt of travellers." It continued +for centuries to be largely used, and here Nicholas +Nickleby and his uncle waited on Squeers, the Yorkshire +schoolmaster, whom Dickens must have modelled from +various real personages. In a <i>Times</i> advertisement for +January 3rd, 1801, I read that "at Mr. Simpson's +Academy, Wodencroft Lodge, near Greta Bridge, Yorkshire, +young gentlemen are boarded and accurately +instructed in the English, Latin, and Greek languages, +writing, arithmetic, merchants' accounts, and the most<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_124" id="Page_124">{124}</a></span> +useful branches of the mathematics, at 16 guineas per +annum, if under nine years of age, and above that age +17 guineas; French taught by a native of France at +1 guinea extra. Mr. Simpson is now in town, and may +be treated with from eleven till two o'clock every day at +the 'Saracen's Head,' Snow Hill." In the early part +of last century the landlady was Sarah Ann Mountain, +coach proprietor, and worthy rival of Mrs. Nelson, +of the "Bull" Inn, Aldgate. The "Saracen's Head" +disappeared in the early part of 1868, when this neighbourhood +was entirely changed by the formation of +the Holborn Viaduct. Another Snow Hill inn was the +"George," or "George and Dragon," mentioned by +Strype as very large and of considerable trade. A +sculptured sign from there is in the Guildhall Museum.</p> + +<p>In Holborn there were once nine or ten galleried inns. +We will only allude to those still in existence within the +memory of the writer. The most famous of them, +perhaps, was the "George and Blue Boar," originally the +"Blue Boar," the site of which is covered by the Inns +of Court Hotel. The house is named in the burial +register of St. Andrew's, Holborn, as early as 1616, but +it is chiefly known from a story related by the Rev. +Thomas Morrice, in his <i>Memoir of Roger Earl of Orrery</i> +(1742), that Cromwell and Ireton, in the disguise of +troopers, here intercepted a letter sewn in the flap of +a saddle from Charles I. to his Queen, in which he wrote +that he was being courted by the Scotch Presbyterians +and the army, and that he thought of closing with the +former. Cromwell is supposed to have said, "From that +time forward we resolved on his ruin." The writer +ventured to ask that excellent historian, Dr. Samuel +Gardiner, what he thought of the statement. In August, +1890, he most kindly replied by letter as follows:—"The +tale has generally been repudiated without enquiry, and +I am rather inclined to believe, at least, in its substantial +accuracy. The curious thing is, that there are two lines<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_125" id="Page_125">{125}</a></span> +of tradition about intercepted letters, as it seems to me +quite distinct." We may, therefore, without being over +credulous, cherish the belief that the picturesque incident +referred to was one that actually occurred. There is an +advertisement of December 27th, 1779, offering the lease +of the "George and Blue Boar," which helps us to realize +the value and capacity of an important inn of that period. +We are told that it contains forty bedrooms, stabling for +fifty-two horses, seven coach-houses, and a dry ride sixty +yards long; also that it returns about £2,000 a year. +In George Colman the younger's "Heir at Law," act i., +scene 2, this house is said by one of the characters to +be "in tumble downish kind of a condition," but it +survived until 1864, when it made way for the Inns of +Court Hotel.</p> + +<p>A group of inns which remained more recently were +Ridler's "Bell and Crown," the old "Bell," and the +"Black Bull," all on the north side of Holborn. Of these, +the most picturesque was the "Bell," about which I have +been able to ascertain some curious facts. The earliest +notice of it that has come to light was on the 14th of +March, 1538, when William Barde sold a messuage with +garden called the "Bell," in the parish of St. Andrew, +Holborn, to Richard Hunt, citizen and girdler. The latter, +who died in 1569, gave thirty sacks of charcoal yearly +for ever, as a charge on the property, to be distributed +to thirty poor persons of the parish. After various +changes of ownership, in 1679-80 it passed into the hands +of Ralph Gregge, and his grandson sold it in 1722 to +Christ's Hospital. In the deed of sale three houses are +mentioned and described as "formerly one great mansion-house +or inn known as the Bell or Blue Bell." About +two years before, the front of the premises facing Holborn +had been rebuilt, when the sculptured arms of Gregge +were let into the wall in front; these arms are now at +the Guildhall Museum. The "Bell" became a coaching +house of considerable reputation, that part of the business<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_126" id="Page_126">{126}</a></span> +being about the year 1836 in the hands of Messrs. +B. W. and H. Horne, who, as coach proprietors, were +second only to William Chaplin. For many years, until +finally closed in September, 1897, the house was managed +by the Bunyer family. It was the last galleried inn on the +Middlesex side of the water, the galleries being perhaps +as old as the reign of Charles II. A still older portion +was a cellar built of stone immediately to the left of +the entrance, which might almost have been mediæval. +The rest of the building seems to have dated from the +early part of the eighteenth century. There is a +sympathetic reference to the old "Bell" by William Black +in his <i>Strange Adventures of a Phæton</i>. Another noteworthy +"Bell" Inn was that in Carter Lane, whence +Richard Quyney wrote in 1598 to his "loveing good ffrend +and contreyman Mr. Willm Shackespere," the only letter +addressed to our greatest poet which is known to exist. +There is still a Bell yard connecting Carter Lane with +Knightrider Street. The first scene of the <i>Harlot's +Progress</i>, by Hogarth, is laid in front of an inn, with the +sign of the "Bell" in Wood Street. Above the door are +chequers.</p> + +<p>A short distance west of the Holborn house was +the "Crown" Inn, latterly Ridler's "Bell and Crown," +destroyed about 1899. It had been a coaching centre, +but years ago the yard was built over, and it flourished +to the end as a quiet family hotel. Next to the "Bell" +on the east side was the "Black Bull," the front of which, +with the carved sign of a bull in a violent state of +excitement, remained after the rest of the inn had disappeared, +outliving its neighbour for a brief period. It +was in existence for a couple of hundred years or more, +but future generations will probably only remember it +as the house where Mr. Lewson was taken ill, and placed +under the tender mercies of Betsy Prig and Mrs. Gamp; +whence also, when convalescent, he was assisted into +a coach, Mould the undertaker eyeing him with regret<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_127" id="Page_127">{127}</a></span> +as he felt himself baulked of a piece of legitimate +business.</p> + +<p>A few short years ago if, on leaving this group of +Holborn inns, we had turned down Fetter Lane in the +direction of Fleet Street, after passing two or three gabled +buildings still standing on the right hand side, we should +have come to another old hostelry called the "White +Horse," of which there is a well-known coloured print +from a drawing made by Pollard in 1814, with a coach +in front called the Cambridge Telegraph. It gradually +fell into decay, became partly a "pub" and partly a +common lodging-house, and with its roomy stabling at +the back was swept away in 1897-98. Most of the +structure was of the eighteenth century, but there were +remains of an earlier wooden building. Its northern +boundary touched the precinct of Barnard's Inn, an +inn of chancery, now disestablished and adapted for the +purposes of the Mercers' School.</p> + +<p>Continuing our course southward, a short walk would +formerly have taken us to the "Bolt-in-Tun," I think +the only coaching establishment in Fleet Street, which +possessed so many taverns and coffee-houses. The inn +was of ancient origin, the White Friars having had a +grant of the "Hospitium vocatum Le Bolt en ton" +as early as the year 1443. The sign is the well-known +rebus on the name of Bolton, the bird-bolt through +a tun or barrel, which was the device of a prior of +St. Bartholomew's, Smithfield, and may still be seen in +the church there, and at Canonbury, where the priors had +a country house. The <i>City Press</i> for September 12th, +1882, announces the then impending destruction of the +"Bolt-in-Tun," and in the following year we are told +that although a remnant of it in Fleet Street exists as +a booking office for parcels, by far the larger portion, +represented chiefly by the Sussex Hotel, Bouverie Street, +which bore on it the date 1692, has just disappeared.</p> + +<p>Further east, on Ludgate Hill, La Belle Sauvage Yard,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_128" id="Page_128">{128}</a></span> +where Messrs. Cassell & Co. carry on their important +business, marks the site of an historic house, and +perpetuates an error of nomenclature. Its original title, as +proved by a document of the year 1452, was "Savage's" +Inn, otherwise called the "Bell on the Hoop," but in the +seventeenth century a trade token was issued from here, +having on it an Indian woman holding a bow and arrow, +and in 1676 "Bell Sauvage" Inn, on Ludgate Hill, consisting +of about forty rooms, with good cellarage and +stabling for about one hundred horses, was to be let. +The mistake is repeated in <i>The Spectator</i>, No. 28, where +we are told of a beautiful girl who was found in the +wilderness, and whose fame was perpetuated in a French +romance. As we learn from Howe, in his continuation +of <i>Stow's Annals</i>, on a seat outside this inn Sir Thomas +Wyat rested, after failing in an attempt to enter the city +during his ill-advised rebellion in the reign of Mary +Tudor. From Lambarde we gather that this was one +of the houses where plays were performed before the +time of Shakespeare. Writing in 1576, he says, "Those +who go to Paris Garden, the Bell Savage, or the Theatre +to behold bear-baiting, interludes, or fence play, must +not account of any pleasant spectacle unless first they +pay one pennie at the gate, another at the entrie of the +scaffold, and a third for quiet standing." Here, as at +the "Cross Keys," Gracechurch Street, Bankes exhibited +his horse, and here, in 1683, "a very strange beast called +a Rhynoceros—the first that ever was in England," could +be seen daily. Stow affirms the inn to have been given +to the Cutlers' Company by Isabella Savage; but, in +fact, the donor was John Craythorne, who conveyed the +reversion of it to them in 1568. The sculptured elephant +and castle representing their crest is still on a wall in +La Belle Sauvage Yard. The inn, which has left its +mark in the annals of coaching, was taken down in 1873.</p> + +<p>A thoroughfare, formerly containing several fine +mansions and various inns for travellers, was Aldersgate<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_129" id="Page_129">{129}</a></span> +Street, the continuation of St. Martin's-le-Grand. There +are allusions in print to the "Bell," the "George" (previously +the "White Hart"), and to the "Cock" Inn, +where, after years of wandering, Fynes Moryson arrived +one Sunday morning in 1595; but these all passed away +long ago. The last to linger in the neighbourhood was the +"Bull and Mouth," St Martin's-le-Grand, finally called the +"Queen's" Hotel, absorbed by the General Post Office +in 1886. The name is generally supposed to be a +corruption of Boulogne Mouth, the entrance to Boulogne +Harbour, that town having been taken by Henry VIII. +George Steevens, the Shakespearean commentator, seems +to have suggested this, and his idea has been generally +accepted; but it is more likely that our inn was identical +with the house called in 1657 "the Mouth near +Aldersgate in London, then the usual meeting-place +for Quakers," to which the Body of John Lilburne was +conveyed in August of that year. We learn from +Ellwood's <i>Autobiography</i> that five years afterwards he +was arrested at the "Bull and Mouth," Aldersgate. The +house was at its zenith as a coaching centre in the early +years of the nineteenth century, when Edward Sherman +had become landlord. He rebuilt the old galleried house +in 1830. When coaching for business purposes ceased to +be, the gateway from St. Martin's-le-Grand was partially +blocked up and converted into the main entrance, +the inn continuing under its changed name for many +years. The sculptured signs were not removed until the +destruction of the building. One, which was over the +main entrance, is a statuette of a Bull within a gigantic +open Mouth; below are bunches of grapes; above, a +bust of Edward VI. and the arms of Christ's Hospital, +to which institution the ground belonged. Beneath is +a tablet inscribed with the following doggerel rhyme:—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Milo the Cretonian an ox slew with his fist,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And ate it up at one meal, ye Gods what a glorious twist."<br /></span><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_130" id="Page_130">{130}</a></span> +</div></div> + +<p>Another version of the sign, the Mouth appearing below +the Bull, was over what had been a back entrance to +the yard in Angel Street. These signs are now both in +the Guildhall Museum. I had almost overlooked one +house, the "Castle and Falcon," Aldersgate, closed within +the last few months, and now destroyed. The structure +was uninteresting, but it stood on an old site—that of +John Day's printing-house in the reign of Queen +Elizabeth. At the present inn on April 12th, 1799, was +founded the Church Missionary Society; here also its +centenary was celebrated.</p> + +<p>Besides being plentiful in the main thoroughfares, +important inns, like the churches, were often crammed +away in narrow and inconvenient lanes. This was the +case with the "Oxford Arms" and the "Bell," both in +Warwick Lane. The former was approached by a +passage, being bounded on the west by the line of the +old city wall, or by a later wall a few feet to the +east of it, and touching Amen Corner on the south. +It was a fine example of its kind. As was said by a +writer in <i>The Athenæum</i> of May 20th, 1876, just before +it was destroyed:</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>"Despite the confusion, the dirt and the decay, he who stands in +the yard of this ancient inn may get an excellent idea of what it was +like in the days of its prosperity, when not only travellers in coach or +saddle rode into or out of the yard, but poor players and mountebanks +set up their stage for the entertainment of spectators, who hung over the +galleries or looked on from their rooms—a name by which the boxes of a +theatre were first known."</p></div> + +<p>The house must have been rebuilt after the Great Fire, +which raged over this area. That it existed before is +proved by the following odd advertisement of March, +1672-73:</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>"These are to give notice that Edward Bartlet, Oxford Carrier, hath +removed his inn in London from the Swan at Holborn Bridge to the +Oxford Arms in Warwick Lane, where he did Inn before the Fire. His +coaches and waggons going forth on their usual days, Mondays, Wednesdays, +and Fridays. He hath also a hearse and all things convenient +to carry a Corps to any part of England."<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_131" id="Page_131">{131}</a></span></p></div> + +<p>The "Bell" Inn, also galleried, was on the east side +of Warwick Lane. There Archbishop Leighton died in +1684. As Burnet tells us, he had often said that "if +he were to choose a place to die in it should be an Inn; +it looked like a pilgrim's going home, to whom this world +was all as an Inn, and who was weary of the noise and +confusion in it." Thus his desire was fulfilled. There +is a view of the old house in Chambers' <i>Book of Days</i>, +vol. i., p. 278. It was demolished in 1865, when the value +of the unclaimed parcels, some of which had been there +many years, is said to have been considerable. According +to one statement, the jewellery was worth £700 or £800.</p> + +<p>The few remaining inns to which reference will be +made may best perhaps be taken in alphabetical order. +The old "Angel" Inn, at the end of Wych Street, Strand, +already existed in February, 1503, when a letter was +directed to Sir Richard Plumpton "at the Angell behind +St. Clement's Kirk." From this inn Bishop Hooper was +taken to Gloucester in 1554 to be burnt at the stake. A +trade token was issued there in 1657. Finally, the +business, largely dependent on coaches, faded away; the +building was rased to the ground in 1853, and the set of +offices called Danes Inn built on the site. These in their +turn have now succumbed. The "Axe" in Aldermanbury +was a famous carriers' inn. It is mentioned in drunken +Barnabee's <i>Journal</i>, and from there the first line of stage +waggons from London to Liverpool was established +about the middle of the seventeenth century. It took +many days to perform the journey.</p> + +<p>In Laurence Lane, near the Guildhall, was a noteworthy +house called "Blossoms" Inn, which, according +to Stow, had "to sign St. Laurence the Deacon in a +border of blossoms of flowers." In 1522, when the +Emperor Charles V. came to visit Henry VIII. in London, +certain inns were set apart for the reception of his retinue, +among them "St. Laurence, otherwise called Bosoms Yn, +was to have ready XX beddes and a stable for LX<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_132" id="Page_132">{132}</a></span> +horses." In Ben Jonson's <i>Masque of Christmas</i>, +presented at Court in 1616, "Tom of Bosomes Inn," +apparently a real person, is introduced as representing +Mis-rule. That the house was early frequented by +carriers is shown in the epistle dedicatory to <i>Have +at you at Saffron Walden</i>, 1596:—"Yet have I naturally +cherisht and hugt it in my bosome, even as a carrier at +Bosome's Inne doth a cheese under his arm." A satirical +tract about Bankes and his horse Marocco gives the +name of the authors as "John Dande the wiredrawer of +Hadley, and Harrie Hunt head ostler of Bosomes inn." +There is a view of this famous hostelry in the Crace +collection, date 1855; the yard is now a depôt for +railway goods.</p> + +<p>In 1852 London suffered a sad loss architecturally by +the removal of the fine groined crypt of Gerard's Hall, +Basing Lane, which dated perhaps from the end of the +thirteenth century, and had formed part of the mansion +of a famous family of citizens, by name Gysors. In +Stow's time it was "a common hostrey for receipt of +travellers." He gives a long account of it, mixing fact +with fiction. The house and hall were destroyed in the +Great Fire, but the crypt escaped, and on it an inn +was built with, in front, a carved wooden effigy of that +mythical personage, Gerard the Giant, which is now in +the Guildhall Museum. On the removal of the crypt +the stones were numbered and presented to the Crystal +Palace Company, with a view to its erection in their +building or grounds. It is said, however, that after a +time the stones were used for mending roads.</p> + +<p>A rather unimportant-looking inn was the "Nag's +Head," on the east side of Whitcomb Street, formerly +Hedge Lane, but it is worthy of mention for one or two +reasons. We learn from a manuscript note-book, which +was in the possession of the late Mr. F. Locker Lampson, +that Hogarth in his later days, when he set up a coach +and horses, kept them at the "Nag's Head." He was<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_133" id="Page_133">{133}</a></span> +then living on the east side of Leicester Square. According +to a pencil note on an old drawing, which belongs +to the writer, "this inn did the posting exclusively for +the Royal family from George I. to William IV." It +was latterly used as a livery stable, but retained its +picturesque galleries until, the lease having come to an +end, it was closed in 1890. The space remained vacant +for some years, and is now covered by the fine publishing +office of Messrs. Macmillan & Co.</p> + +<p>Two "Saracen's Head" inns have already been +described, and though one feels how imperfect this +account must of necessity be, and that some houses of +note are altogether omitted, I am tempted to mention a +third—the house with that sign in Friday Street. It +came into the hands of the Merchant Taylors' Company +as early as the year 1400, and after several rebuildings +was finally swept away in 1844. The adjoining house, +said by tradition to have been occupied by Sir Christopher +Wren, was destroyed at the same time.</p> + +<p>It was in the early thirties of last century that coaching +reached its zenith, and perhaps the greatest coaching +centre in London was the "Swan with Two Necks," Lad +Lane. It was an old inn, mentioned by Machyn as early +as 1556. In 1637 carriers from Manchester and other +places used to lodge there, but it will be best +remembered as it appears in a well-known print during +the heyday of its prosperity, the courtyard crowded with +life and movement. The gateway was so narrow that +it required some horsemanship to drive a fast team out +of the said courtyard, and some care on the part of the +guard that his horn or bugle basket was not jammed +against the gate-post. The proprietor of this establishment +was Mr. William Chaplin who, originally a coachman, +became perhaps the greatest coach proprietor that +ever lived. About 1835 he occupied the yards of no +fewer than five famous and important inns in London, +to all of which allusion has been made—the "Spread<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_134" id="Page_134">{134}</a></span> +Eagle" and "Cross Keys" in Gracechurch Street, the +"Swan with Two Necks," the "White Horse," Fetter +Lane, and the "Angel" behind St. Clement's. He had +1,300 horses at work on various roads, and about that +time horsed fourteen out of the twenty-seven coaches +leaving London every night. When the railways came +he bowed to the inevitable, and, in partnership with Mr. +Horne, established the great carrying business, which still +flourishes on the site of the old "Swan with Two Necks." +In 1845 Lad Lane was absorbed by Gresham Street. The +origin of the sign has been often discussed, but it is +perhaps well to conclude this chapter by adding a few +words about it. The swans on the upper reaches of the +Thames are owned respectively by the Crown and the +Dyers and the Vintners' Company, and, according to +ancient custom, the representatives of these several owners +make an excursion each year up the river to mark the +cygnets. The visitors' mark used to consist of the +chevron or letter V and two nicks on the beak. The +word nicks has been corrupted into necks, and as the +Vintners were often tavern-keepers, the "Swan with Two +Necks" became a common sign.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_135" id="Page_135">{135}</a></span></p> +</div> + + +<hr class="chap" /> +<div class="chapter"> +<h2><a name="THE_OLD_LONDON_COFFEE-HOUSES" id="THE_OLD_LONDON_COFFEE-HOUSES">THE OLD LONDON COFFEE-HOUSES</a></h2> + +<p class='p3'><span class="smcap">By G. L. Apperson, I.S.O.</span></p> + + + +<div> +<img class="drop-cap" src="images/drop-f.png" width="100" height="119" alt="" /> +</div> + +<p class="drop-cap">For something like a century and a half +the coffee-houses formed a distinctive feature +of London life. The first is said to have +been established by a man named Bowman, +servant to a Turkey merchant, who opened a +coffee-house in St. Michael's Alley, Cornhill, in 1652. +The honour of being the second has been claimed +for the "Rainbow" in Fleet Street, by the Inner +Temple Gate, opposite Chancery Lane. Aubrey, speaking +of Sir Henry Blount, a beau in the time of +Charles II., says: "When coffee first came in, he was +a great upholder of it, and had ever since been a constant +frequenter of coffee-houses, especially Mr. Farre's, at the +'Rainbow,' by Inner Temple Gate." But according to <i>The +Daily Post</i> of May 15th, 1728, "Old Man's" Coffee-house, +at Charing Cross, "was the Second that was set +up in the Cities of London and Westminster." The +question of priority, however, is of no importance. It +is quite certain that in a surprisingly short space of +time coffee-houses became very numerous. A manuscript +of 1659, quoted in <i>The Gentleman's Magazine</i> for 1852 +(Part I., pp. 477-9), says that at that date there was</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>"a Turkish drink to be sould almost in eury street, called Coffee, and +another kind of drink called Tee, and also a drink called Chocolate, +which was a very harty drink."</p></div> + +<p>Tea made its way slowly; but coffee took the town by +storm.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_136" id="Page_136">{136}</a></span></p> + +<p>The coffee-houses, as resorts for men of different classes +and occupations, survived till the early years of the nineteenth +century; but their palmy days were over some +time before the end of the eighteenth century. They +were at the height of their fame and usefulness from the +Restoration till the earlier years of George III.'s reign.</p> + +<p>From the description given in <i>The Spectator</i> and other +contemporary writings—such as "facetious" Tom Brown's +<i>Trip through London</i> of 1728, and the like—it is easy +to reconstruct in imagination the interior of one of these +resorts as they appeared in the time of Queen Anne. +Occasionally the coffee-room, as at the famous "Will's" +in Russell Street, Covent Garden, was on the first floor. +Tables were disposed about the sanded floor—the erection +of boxes did not come in until a later date—while on +the walls were numerous flaming advertisements of quack +medicines, pills and tinctures, salves and electuaries, which +were as abundant then as now, and of other wares which +might be bought at the bar. The bar was at the entrance +to the temple of coffee and gossip, and was presided over +by the predecessors of the modern barmaids—grumbled +at in <i>The Spectator</i> as "idols," who there received homage +from their admirers, and who paid more attention to +customers who flirted with them than to more sober-minded +visitors; and described by Tom Brown as "a +charming Phillis or two, who invite you by their amorous +glances into their smoaky territories."</p> + +<p>At the bar messages were left and letters taken in +for regular customers. In the early days of Swift's +friendship with Addison, Stella was instructed to address +her letters to the former under cover to Addison at the +"St. James's" Coffee-house, in St. James's Street; but as +the friendship between the two men cooled the cover was +dispensed with, and the letters were addressed to Swift +himself at the coffee-house, where they were placed, +doubtless with many others, in the glass frame behind +the bar. Stella's handwriting was very like that of her<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_137" id="Page_137">{137}</a></span> +famous correspondent, and one day Harley, afterwards +Earl of Oxford, seeing one of Stella's letters in the +glass frame and thinking the writing was Swift's, asked +the latter, when he met him shortly afterwards, how long +he had learned the trick of writing to himself. Swift +says he could hardly persuade him that he was mistaken +in the writing.</p> + +<p>The coffee-houses were the haunts of clubs and coteries +almost from the date of their first establishment. Steele, +in the familiar introduction to <i>The Tatler</i>, tells us how +accounts of gallantry, pleasure and entertainment were +to come from "White's" Chocolate-house; poetry from +"Will's" Coffee-house; learning from the "Grecian"; and +foreign and domestic news from the "St. James's." +Nearly fifty years later, Bonnell Thornton, in the first +number of <i>The Connoisseur</i>, January 31st, 1754, similarly +enumerates some of the leading houses. "White's" was +still the fashionable resort; "Garraway's" was for stock-jobbers; +"Batson's" for doctors; the "Bedford" for +"wits" and men of parts; the "Chapter" for book-sellers; +and "St. Paul's" for the clergy. Mackay, in his <i>Journey +through England</i>, published in 1724, says that</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>"about twelve the <i>beau-monde</i> assembles in several chocolate and coffee-houses, +the best of which are the Cocoa Tree and White's Chocolate-houses, +St. James's, the Smyrna, and the British Coffee-houses; and all +these so near one another that in less than an hour you see the company +of them all.... I must not forget to tell you that the parties have +their different places, where, however, a stranger is always well received; +but a Whig will no more go to the Cocoa Tree or Ozinda's than a Tory +will be seen at the coffee-house of St. James's. The Scots go generally to +the British, and a mixture of all sorts to the Smyrna. There are other +little coffee-houses much frequented in this neighbourhood—Young +Man's for officers, Old Man's for stock-jobbers, paymasters, and courtiers, +and Little Man's for sharpers."</p></div> + +<p>It was only natural that people of similar occupations +or tastes should gravitate in their hours of leisure to +common social centres, and no one classification, such as +that just quoted, can exhaust the subject.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_138" id="Page_138">{138}</a></span></p> + +<p>The devotees of whist had their own houses. The +game began to be popular about 1730, and some of those +who first played scientific whist—possibly including Hoyle +himself—were accustomed to meet at the "Crown" +Coffee-house in Bedford Row. Other groups soon met +at other houses. A pirated edition of Hoyle's <i>Whist</i>, +printed at Dublin in 1743, contains an advertisement of +"A Short Treatise on the Game of Whist, as play'd at +Court, White's, and George's Chocolate-houses, at +Slaughter's, and the Crown Coffee-houses, etc., etc." At +"Rawthmell's" Coffee-house in Henrietta Street, Covent +Garden, the Society of Arts was founded in 1754. "Old +Slaughter's" in St. Martin's Lane was a great resort +in the second half of the eighteenth century of artists. +Here Roubillac the sculptor, Hogarth, Bourguignon or +Gravelot the book illustrator, Moser the keeper of the +St. Martin's Lane Academy, Luke Sullivan the engraver, +and many others of the fraternity were wont to foregather. +Near by was "Young Slaughter's," a meeting-place +for scientific and literary men.</p> + +<p>R. L. Edgeworth, in his <i>Memoirs</i> (p. 118, Ed. 1844), +says:—</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>"I was introduced by Mr. Keir into a society of literary and scientific +men, who used formerly to meet once a week at Jack's Coffee-house +[<i>i.e., circa 1780</i>] in London, and afterwards at Young Slaughter's Coffee-house. +Without any formal name, this meeting continued for years to +be frequented by men of real science and of distinguished merit. John +Hunter was our chairman. Sir Joseph Banks, Solander, Sir A. Blagden, +Dr. George Fordyce, Milne, Maskelyne, Captain Cook, Sir G. Shuckburgh, +Lord Mulgrave, Smeaton and Ramsden, were among our members. Many +other gentlemen of talents belonged to this club, but I mention those +only with whom I was individually acquainted."</p></div> + +<p>A favourite resort of men of letters during the middle +and later years of the eighteenth century was the +"Bedford" Coffee-house, under the Piazza, in Covent +Garden. This house, it may be said, inherited the +tradition from Button's, which that famous coffee-house +had taken over from Will's. To the "Bedford" came<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_139" id="Page_139">{139}</a></span> +Fielding, Foote, Garrick, Churchill, Sheridan, Hogarth, +and many another man of note. Another haunt of literary +men, as well as of book-sellers, was the "Chapter" Coffee-house +in Paternoster Row. Chatterton wrote to his +mother in May, 1770: "I am quite familiar at the +'Chapter' Coffee-house, and know all the geniuses there." +Goldsmith was one of its frequenters. It was here that +he came to sup one night as the invited guest of +Churchill's friend, Charles Lloyd. The supper was +served and enjoyed, whereupon Lloyd, without a penny +in his pocket to pay for the meal he had ordered, coolly +walked off and left Goldsmith to discharge the reckoning. +It was at the same house that Foote, one day when a +distressed player passed his hat round the coffee-room +circle with an appeal for help, made the malicious +remark: "If Garrick hear of this he will certainly send +in his hat."</p> + +<p>Close by was the "St. Paul's" Coffee-house, where, +according to Bonnell Thornton, "tattered crapes," or +poor parsons, were wont to ply "for an occasional burial +or sermon, with the same regularity as the happier +drudges who salute us with the cry of 'Coach, sir,' or +'Chair, your honour.'" The same writer relates how a +party of bucks, by a hoaxing proffer of a curacy, "drew +all the poor parsons to 'St. Paul's' Coffee-house, where +the bucks themselves sat in another box to smoke their +rusty wigs and brown cassocks."</p> + +<p>Business men gathered at "Jonathan's" and "Garraway's," +both in Exchange Alley, where the sale and +purchase of stocks and bonds and merchandise of every +kind formed the staple talk. The former house was a +centre of operations for both bubblers and bubbled in +the mania year of 1720. "Lloyd's" Coffee-house was for +very many years a famous auction mart.</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Then to Lloyd's coffee-house he never fails,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">To read the letters, and attend the sales,"<br /></span><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_140" id="Page_140">{140}</a></span> +</div></div> + +<p>says the author of <i>The Wealthy Shopkeeper</i>, published in +1700. Addison, in No. 46 of <i>The Spectator</i>, tells how he +was accustomed to make notes or "minutes" of anything +likely to be useful for future papers, and of how one day +he accidentally dropped one of these papers at "Lloyd's +Coffee-house, where the auctions are usually kept." It +was picked up and passed from hand to hand, to the +great amusement of all who saw it. Finally, the "boy +of the coffee-house," having in vain asked for the owner +of the paper, was made "to get up into the auction pulpit +and read it to the whole room." The "Jerusalem" Coffee-house, +in Exchange Alley, was for generations the resort +of merchants and traders interested in the East.</p> + +<p>The doctors met at "Batson's" or "Child's." The +pseudonymous author of Don Manoel Gonzales' <i>Voyage +to Great Britain</i>, 1745, speaking of the London physicians, +says: "You find them at Batson's or Child's Coffee-house +usually in the morning, and they visit their patients in the +afternoon." The Jacobites had two well-known houses +of call—"Bromefield's" Coffee-house in Spring Gardens, +and, later, the "Smyrna" in Pall Mall. Mr. J. H. +MacMichael, in his valuable book on <i>Charing Cross</i>, 1906, +quotes an order "given at their Majesties' Board of Green +Cloth at Hampton Court" in 1689, to Sir Christopher +Wren, Surveyor of Their Majesties' Works, to have +"bricked or otherwise so closed up as you shall judge +most fit for the security of their Majesties' Palace of +Whitehall" a certain door which led out of Buckingham +Court into Spring Garden, because Bromefield's Coffee-house +in that court was resorted to by "a great and +numerous concourse of Papists and other persons disaffected +to the Government." Mr. MacMichael suggests +that probably "Bromefield's" was identical with the +coffee-house known as "Young Man's." "The Smyrna," +in Pall Mall, was the Jacobite resort in Georgian days. It +was also a house of many literary associations. Thomson, +the poet, there received subscriptions for his <i>Seasons</i>;<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_141" id="Page_141">{141}</a></span> +Swift and Prior and Arbuthnot frequented it. In 1703 +Lord Peterborough wrote to Arbuthnot from Spain:—"I +would faine save Italy and yett drink tea with you at +the Smirna this Winter." But it is impossible to catalogue +fully all the different coffee-house centres. The +"Grecian" in Devereux Court, Strand, was devoted to +learning; barristers frequented "Serle's," at the corner of +Serle and Portugal Streets, Lincoln's Inn Fields; the +Templars went to "Dick's," and later to the "Grecian"; +and so the list might be prolonged.</p> + +<p>In the earlier days of the coffee-houses the coterie +or club of regular frequenters foregathered by the fire, +or in some particular part of the general room, or in +an inner room. At "Will's" in Russell Street, Covent +Garden, where Mr. Pepys used to drop in to hear the +talk, Dryden, the centre of the literary circle which +there assembled, had his big arm-chair in winter by the +fireside, and in summer on the balcony. Around him +gathered many men of letters, including Addison, +Wycherley, Congreve, and the juvenile Pope, and all who +aspired to be known as "wits." On the outskirts of the +charmed circle hovered the more humble and modest +frequenters of the coffee-room, who were proud to obtain +the honour even of a pinch of snuff from the poet's box. +Across the road at "Button's," a trifle later, Addison +became the centre of a similar circle, though here the tone +was political quite as much as literary. Whig men of +letters discussed politics as well as books. Steele, Tickell, +Budgell, Rowe, and Ambrose Phillips were among the +leading figures in this coterie. Pope was of it for a time, +but withdrew after his quarrel with Addison.</p> + +<p>Whig politicians met at the "St. James's"; and +Addison, in a <i>Spectator</i> of 1712, pictures the scene. A +rumour of the death of Louis XIV. had set the tongues +going of all the gossips and quidnuncs in town; and the +essayist relates how he made a tour of the town to hear +how the news was received, and to catch the drift of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_142" id="Page_142">{142}</a></span> +popular opinion on so momentous an event. In the course +of his peregrinations the silent gentleman visited the +"St. James's," where he found the whole outer room in +a buzz of politics. The quality of the talk improved as +he advanced from the door to the upper end of the room; +but the most thorough-going politicians were to be found +"in the inner room, with the steam of the coffee-pot," and +in this sanctum, says the humorist, "I heard the whole +Spanish monarchy disposed of, and all the line of +Bourbon provided for, in less than a quarter of an hour."</p> + +<p>In later days coffee-house clubs became more exclusive. +The members of a club or coterie were allotted a room of +their own, to which admission ceased to be free and +open, and thus was marked the beginning of the +transition from the coffee-house of the old style to the +club-house of the new. In <i>The Gentleman's Magazine</i> for +1841 (Part II., pp. 265-9) is printed a paper of proposals, +dated January 23rd, 1768, for enlarging the accommodation +for the club accustomed to meet at Tom's Coffee-house, +Great Russell Street, Covent Garden, by taking +into the coffee-room the first floor of the adjoining house. +Admission to this club was obtained by ballot.</p> + +<p>Coffee-houses were frequented for various purposes +besides coffee, conversation, and business—professional +or otherwise. The refreshments supplied were by no +means confined to such innocuous beverages as tea and +coffee and chocolate. Wines and spirits were freely consumed—"laced" +coffee, or coffee dashed with brandy, +being decidedly popular. Swift relates how on the +occasion of his christening the child of Elliot, the proprietor +of the "St. James's," he sat at the coffee-house +among some "scurvy companions" over a bowl of punch +so late that when he came home he had no time to +write to Stella. The prolonged sittings and too copious +libations of the company at Button's Coffee-house gave +the feeble and delicate Pope many a headache; and +Addison, who was notoriously a hard drinker, did not,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_143" id="Page_143">{143}</a></span> +we may feel sure, confine himself during those prolonged +sittings to coffee.</p> + +<p>The coffee-houses were also public reading-rooms. +There could be read the newspapers and other periodical +publications of the day. When Sir Roger de Coverley +entered "Squire's," near Gray's Inn Gate, he "called for +a clean pipe, a paper of tobacco, a dish of coffee, a wax +candle, and <i>The Supplement</i>."</p> + +<p>Mackay, in his <i>Journey through England</i>, already +quoted, says that "in all the Coffee-houses you have not +only the foreign prints, but several English ones with the +Foreign Occurrences, besides papers of morality and +party disputes." Swift, writing to Stella, November 18th, +1711, says, "Do you read the <i>Spectators</i>? I never do; +they never come in my way; I go to no coffee-houses"; +and when <i>The Tatler</i> had disappeared, a little earlier, Gay +wrote that "the coffee-houses began to be sensible that +the Esquire's lucubrations alone had brought them more +customers than all their other newspapers put together." +Periodical publications were filed for reference; and at +all the better houses <i>The London Gazette</i>, and, during +the session, the Parliamentary Votes could be seen. At +least one house possessed a library. This was the +"Chapter," in Paternoster Row, already referred to as +a literary haunt. Dr. Thomas Campbell, the author of +a <i>Diary of a Visit to England in 1775</i>, which was published +at Sydney in 1854, says that he had heard that +the "Chapter" was remarkable for a large collection of +books and a reading society.</p> + +<p>The coffee-houses served as writing-rooms as well +as reading-rooms. Many of Steele's numerous love-letters +to "dear Prue," the lady who became his wife, +the lovely Mary Scurlock, written both before and after +his marriage, are dated from the "St. James's," the +"Tennis Court," "Button's," or other coffee-house. But a +popular coffee-room could hardly have been an ideal place +for either reading or writing. A poet of 1690 says that<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_144" id="Page_144">{144}</a></span></p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"The murmuring buzz which thro' the room was sent,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Did bee-hives' noise exactly represent,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And like a bee-hive, too, 'twas filled, and thick,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">All tasting of the Honey Politick<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Called 'News,' which they all greedily sucked in."<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>And many years later, Gilly Williams, in a letter to +George Selwyn, dated November 1st, 1764, says: "I write +this in a full coffee-house, and with such materials, that +you have good luck if you can read two lines of it."</p> + +<p>A curious proof of the close and intimate way in +which the coffee-houses were linked with social life +is to be seen in the occasional references, both in +dramatic and prose literature, to some of the well-known +servants of the coffee-houses. Steele, in the first number +of <i>The Tatler</i>, refers familiarly to Humphrey Kidney, the +waiter and keeper of book debts at the "St. James's"—he +"has the ear of the greatest politicians that come hither"—and +when Kidney resigned, it was advertised that he +had been "succeeded by John Sowton, to whose place of +caterer of messages and first coffee-grinder William Bird is +promoted, and Samuel Bardock comes as shoe-cleaner in +the room of the said Bird." "Robin, the Porter who waits +at Will's Coffee-house," plays a prominent part in a little +romance narrated in No. 398 of <i>The Spectator</i>. He is +described as "the best man in the town for carrying a +billet; the fellow has a thin body, swift step, demure +looks, sufficient sense, and knows the town." A waiter +of the same name at Locket's, in Spring Gardens, is +alluded to in Congreve's <i>The Way of the World</i>, where +the fashionable Lady Wishfort, when she threatens to +marry a "drawer" (or waiter), says, "I'll send for Robin +from Locket's immediately."</p> + +<p>The coffee-houses were employed as agencies for the +sale of many things other than their own refreshments. +Most of them sold the quack medicines that were staringly +advertised on their walls. Some sold specific proprietary +articles. A newspaper advertisement of 1711 says that<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_145" id="Page_145">{145}</a></span> +the water of Epsom Old Well was "pumped out almost +every night, that you may have the new mineral every +morning," and that "the water is sold at Sam's Coffee-house +in Ludgate Street, Hargrave's at the Temple Gate, +Holtford's at the lower end of Queen's Street near +Thames Street, and nowhere else in London." A +"Ticket of the seal of the Wells" was affixed, so that +purchasers "might not be cheated in their waters." The +"Royal" Coffee-house at Charing Cross, which flourished +in the time of Charles II., sold "Anderson's Pills"—a +compound of cloves, jalap, and oil of aniseed. At the +same house were to be had tickets for the various county +feasts, then popular, which were an anticipation of the +annual dinners of county associations so common nowadays.</p> + +<p>Razor-strops of a certain make were to be bought in +1705 at John's Coffee-house, Exchange Alley. In 1742 +it was advertised that "silver tickets" (season tickets) +for Ranelagh Gardens were to be had at any hour of +the day at Forrest's Coffee-house, near Charing Cross. +"All Sorts of the newest fashion'd Tye Perukes, made of +fresh string, Humane Hair, far exceeding any Country +Work," were advertised in 1725 as to be bought at +Brown's Coffee-house in Spring Gardens.</p> + +<p>House agents, professional men, and other folk of more +questionable kind, were all wont to advertise that they +could be seen by clients at this or that coffee-house. +The famous and impudent Mrs. Mapp, "the bone-setter," +drove into town daily from Epsom in her own carriage, +and was to be seen (and heard) at the "Grecian." Most +of the houses were willing to receive letters in answer to +advertisements, and from the nature of the latter must +often, it is pretty certain, have been assisting parties to +fraud and chicanery of various kind. At some houses, +besides those like Lloyd's specially devoted to auction +business, sales were held. A black boy was advertised to +be sold at Denis's Coffee-house in Finch Lane in 1708. In<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_146" id="Page_146">{146}</a></span> +the middle of the eighteenth century sales were often held +at the "Apollo" Coffee-house, just within Temple Bar, +and facing Temple Gate. Picture sales were usually held +at coffee-houses. The catalogue of one such sale, held +at the "Barbadoes" Coffee-house in February, 1689/90, +contains a glowing address on the art of painting by +Millington, the Auctioneer, written in the style made +famous later by George Robins. Says the eloquent +Millington:</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>"This incomparable art at the same time informs the Judgment, pleases +the Fancy, recreates the Eye, and touches the Soul, entertains the Curious +with silent Instruction, by expressing our most noble Passions, and never +fails of rewarding its admirers with the greatest Pleasures, so Innocent and +Ravishing, that the severest Moralists, the Morosest <i>Stoicks</i> cannot be +offended therewith,"</p></div> + +<p>and so on and so on.</p> + +<p>Many of the early book sales, too, were held at coffee-houses. +The third book auction in England, that of the +library of the Rev. William Greenhill, was held on +February 18th, 1677/78, "in the House of Ferdinand +Stable, Coffee-Seller, at the Sign of the 'Turk's Head,'" +in Bread Street. When sales were held elsewhere, +catalogues could usually be had at some of the leading +coffee-houses.</p> + +<p>Besides serving as reading, writing and sale rooms, +they seem sometimes to have been used as lecture rooms. +William Whiston, in his <i>Memoirs</i> written by himself +(1749), says:</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>"Mr. Addison, with his friend Sir Richard Steele, brought me upon +my banishment from Cambridge, to have many astronomical lectures at +Mr. Button's coffee-house, near Covent Garden, to the agreeable entertainment +of a great number of persons, and the procuring me and my +family some comfortable support under my banishment."</p></div> + +<p>Some of the houses, as an additional attraction to +visitors, offered exhibitions of collections of curiosities. +The most famous collection of this kind was that to be +seen for many years at Don Saltero's Coffee-house at<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_147" id="Page_147">{147}</a></span> +Chelsea. Don Saltero, by the way, was simply plain +James Salter disguised. Some of his exhibits were +supplied by his former master, Sir Hans Sloane, and by +other scientific friends and patrons. But mixed with +things of genuine interest were to be seen all sorts of +rubbish. Steele made fun of the collection in <i>The Tatler</i>. +But people came to see the "piece of nun's skin tanned," +"Job's tears, which grow on a tree, and of which anodyne +necklaces are made," a "waistcoat to prevent sweating," +and the many other strange articles which were shown +side by side with the wooden shoe (of doubtful authenticity, +one would think) which was placed under Mr. +Speaker's chair in the time of James II., the King of +Morocco's tobacco pipe, Oliver Cromwell's sword, and the +like "historical" curiosities; and Mr. Salter had no reason +to be dissatisfied with the results of his ingenuity. The +most interesting association of this coffee-house, perhaps, +is Pennant's story of how it was frequented by Richard +Cromwell, the quondam Lord Protector, described in his +peaceful age as "a little and very neat old man, with a +most placid countenance, the effect of his innocent and +unambitious life."</p> + +<p>Not far from Don Saltero's was the old Chelsea Bun-house, +which also contained a museum. The last relics +of this collection were sold in April, 1839, and included +a few pictures, plaster casts, a model of the bun-house, +another, in cut paper, of St. Mary Redcliff Church, and +other things of a still more trumpery character.</p> + +<p>Richard Thoresby tells us that when he was in +London, in the summer of 1714, he met his "old friend +Dr. Sloane at the coffee-house of Mr. Miers, who hath +a handsome collection of curiosities in the room where +the virtuosi meet." As the name of the proprietor only +is given, it is not easy to identify this house, but possibly +it was the "Grecian" in Devereux Court, which was a +favourite resort of the learned. It was at the "Grecian," +by the way, that Goldsmith, in the latter years of his<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_148" id="Page_148">{148}</a></span> +life, was often the life and soul of the Templars who +were wont to meet there. In their company he sometimes +amused himself with the flute, or with whist—"neither +of which he played very well." When he took +what he called a "Shoemaker's holiday," Goldsmith, after +his day's excursion, "concluded by supping at the +'Grecian' or 'Temple-Exchange' Coffee-house, or at +the 'Globe' in Fleet Street."</p> + +<p>A word must be said as to the manners of the frequenters +of coffee-houses. The author of <i>A Trip +through London</i>, 1728, tells of fops who stare you out +of countenance, and describes one man as standing with +his back to the fire "in a great coffee-house near the +Temple," and there spouting poetry—a remarkable specimen, +indeed, of the bore; but on the whole the evidence +goes to show that bad manners were usually resented by +the rest of the company, and that good humour and +good manners were marked characteristics of coffee-house +life. There were exceptional incidents, of course. A +fatal duel once resulted from a heated argument at the +"Grecian" about a Greek accent. One day, soon after +the first appearance of <i>The Tatler</i>, two or three well-dressed +men walked into the coffee-room of the +"St. James's," and began in a loud, truculent manner to +abuse Steele as the author of that paper. One of them +at last swore that he would cut Steele's throat or teach +him better manners. Among the company present was +Lord Forbes, with two friends, officers of high rank in +the army. When the cut-throat had uttered his threat, +Lord Forbes said significantly, "In this country you will +find it easier to cut a purse than to cut a throat," and +with the aid of the military gentlemen the bullies were +ignominiously turned out of the house. Many years later, +in 1776, the "St. James's" was the scene of a singular +act of senseless violence. It is tersely described in +a letter from Lord Carlisle to George Selwyn. He +writes:<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_149" id="Page_149">{149}</a></span></p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>"The Baron de Lingsivy ran a French officer through the body on +Thursday for laughing in the St. James's Coffee-house. I find he did +not pretend that he himself was laughed at, but at that moment he +chose that the world should be grave. The man won't die, and the baron +will not be hanged."</p></div> + +<p>Incidents of this kind, however, were of rare occurrence.</p> + +<p>But it is impossible to attempt to exhaust the subject +of the Old London Coffee-houses in one brief chapter. +For a hundred years they focussed the life of the town. +Within their hospitable walls men of all classes and +occupations, independently, or in clubs and coteries, met +not only for refreshment, but for social intercourse—to +read and hear the news, to discuss the topics of the day, +to entertain and be entertained. This was the chief end +they served. Incidentally, as we have seen, they served +a number of other subsidiary and more of less useful +purposes. They died slowly. Gradually the better-class +houses became more exclusive, and were merged in clubs +of the modern kind. The inferior houses were driven +from public favour by the taverns and public-houses, or, +degenerating from their former condition, lingered on as +coffee-houses still, but of the lower type, which is not +yet quite extinct.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_150" id="Page_150">{150}</a></span></p> +</div> + + +<hr class="chap" /> +<div class="chapter"> +<h2><a name="THE_LEARNED_SOCIETIES_OF" id="THE_LEARNED_SOCIETIES_OF">THE LEARNED SOCIETIES OF +LONDON</a></h2> + +<p class='p3'><span class="smcap">By Sir Edward Brabrook, C.B., F.S.A.</span></p> + + + +<div> +<img class="drop-cap" src="images/drop-i.png" width="56" height="124" alt="" /> +</div> + +<p class="drop-cap">In a sense some of the City Guilds are entitled to be +called "learned societies"—as the Apothecaries, the +Parish Clerks, the Stationers, and the Surgeons—but +they are dealt with under their proper head. By +the learned societies of London, we mean here those +voluntary bodies existing with or without royal patronage, +but relying wholly for support on the contributions of +their members, which have taken upon themselves the +promotion of knowledge in one or more of its branches. +The earliest which we have been able to trace is that +Society of Antiquaries which was founded in 1572, the +fourteenth year of Queen Elizabeth, at the house of Sir +Robert Cotton, under the presidency of Archbishop Parker. +It counted among its members Lancelot Andrewes, Bishop +of Winchester, William Camden, Sir William Dethicke, +Garter, William Lambarde, James Ley, Earl of Marlborough, +John Stow, Mr. Justice Whitelock, and other +antiquaries of distinction. It is said that James I. became +alarmed for the arcana of his Government and, as some +thought, for the established Church, and accordingly put +an end to the existence of the society in 1604.</p> + +<p>His grandson, Charles II., founded the Royal Society +of London for improving natural knowledge in the year +1660, and thus gave effect to a project which had been in +the minds of many learned men for some time, is +expounded by Bacon in his scheme of Solomon's house,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_151" id="Page_151">{151}</a></span> +and is perhaps best embodied in a letter which was +addressed by John Evelyn to the Hon. Robert Boyle on +September 1, 1659. The first meeting recorded in the +journals of the society was held on November 28, 1660, +and Evelyn was elected a member on December 26 of +that year. Sir R. Moray was the first president. Graunt +aptly called the society "The King's Privy Council for +Philosophy." Statutes were duly framed by the society, +and received the King's approval in January, 1662-3. +For many years it held its meetings at Gresham College, +with an interval of about four years (1669-1673), when it +occupied Chelsea College. Its charters (dated 1662, +1663, and 1669) gave it many privileges, among others that +of using a mace, and it was formerly said that the one used +by the society was the identical mace or "bauble" of +the Long Parliament, but that is an error. The society +began in 1663 the excellent practice, which has continued +to the present day, of celebrating the anniversary by +dining together on St. Andrew's Day (November 30). It +began on February 21, 1665-6, the formation of its +museum, a catalogue of which was published in 1681. +Many of its meetings were devoted to practical experiment; +thus, on November 14, 1666, the operation of +the transfusion of blood from one dog to another was +performed in the presence of the members. In 1671 +Isaac Newton sent his reflecting telescope to the society, +and on January 11, 1671-2, he was elected a fellow. On +April 28, 1686, the manuscript of his <i>Principia</i> was +presented to the society, and it was published by the +society in the following year. Many great men have +been presidents of the society. Among them may +be mentioned Sir Christopher Wren, elected president +January 12, 1680-1; Samuel Pepys, 1684; Lord Somers, +Chancellor of England, 1698; Isaac Newton, 1703; Sir +Hans Sloane, on the death of Newton, 1726-7; Martin +Folkes, who was also a well-remembered President of the +Society of Antiquaries, 1741; the Earl of Macclesfield,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_152" id="Page_152">{152}</a></span> +1753; succeeded on his death by the Earl of Morton, 1764; +James West, 1768; James Barrow, and shortly afterwards, +Sir John Pringle, 1772; Sir Joseph Banks, 1777; +Wollaston, 1820; Davies Gilbert, 1826. In 1830, a contested +election took place between the Duke of Sussex +and Herschel the astronomer, when His Royal Highness +was elected by 119 votes to 111.</p> + +<p>The Government have frequently availed themselves +of the existence of the Royal Society to +entrust it with important public duties. On December 12, +1710, the fellows of the society were appointed visitors +of the Royal Observatory. On February 7, 1712/3, +the King requested the society to supply enquiries +for his ambassadors. In 1742, and afterwards, it +assisted in the determination of the standards. In 1780 +its public services were recognised by the grant of apartments +in Somerset House. In 1784 it undertook a +geodetical survey. Recently it has been entrusted by +Parliament with a sum of £4,000 a year, which it allots +towards encouraging scientific research. It has promoted +many public movements, such as Arctic expeditions, +magnetic observations, and the like. Originally its +members were drawn from two classes—the working-men +of science and the patrons of science; and the idea is +even now maintained by certain privileges in respect of +election given to privy councillors and peers; but the +recent tendency has been to restrict its fellowship to +persons eminent in physical science. The Royal Society +Club was founded in 1743, and still flourishes.</p> + +<p>After the summary proceedings of James I., in 1604, +the antiquaries seem to have allowed the whole of the +seventeenth century to pass without any further attempt +at organisation, though we learn from Mr. Ashmole that +on July 2, 1659, an antiquaries' feast was held, and many +renowned antiquaries, such as Dugdale, Spelman, Selden, +and Anthony à Wood flourished at that time. On +November 5, 1707, three antiquaries met at the "Bear"<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_153" id="Page_153">{153}</a></span> +Tavern in the Strand, and agreed to hold a weekly +meeting at the same place on Fridays at 6 o'clock, "and +sit till ten at farthest." Other antiquaries joined them, +and they removed next year to the "Young Devil" +Tavern in Fleet Street, where Le Neve became their +president.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/image_028.jpg" width="600" height="515" alt="" /> +<p class='center'>THE<br /> +ROYAL SOCIETY'S<br /> +LETTER.</p> + +<p>I have (by Order of the Royal Society) seen and +examined the Method used by Mr JOHN MARSHALL, +for grinding Glasses; and find that he performs +the said Work with greater Ease and Certainty +than hitherto has been practised; by means of an Invention +which I take to be his own, and New; and +whereby he is enabled to make a great number of Optick-Glasses +at one time, and all exactly alike; which +having reported to the Royal Society, they were pleased +to approve thereof, as an Invention of great use; and +highly to deserve Encouragement.</p> + +<p>Lond. Jan. 18. <br /> +1693, 4. </p> + +<p class='right'>By the Command of the<br /> +Royal Society.<br /> +EDM. HALLEY.<br /> +</p> + +<p class='center'><i>Note</i>, There are several Persons who pretend to have the Approbation of the ROYAL +SOCIETY; but none has, or ever had it, but my self; as my Letter can testifie.</p> + +<p class='center'><i>Marshall</i>s True SPECTACLES.</p> + +<div class="caption"><p class='center'><span class="smcap">An Early Letter of the Royal Society, dated January 18th, 1693-4.</span></p></div> +</div> + +<p>In 1717 they resolved to form themselves into a +society, which is the Society of Antiquaries now existing. +Its minutes have been regularly kept since January 1, +1718. The first volume bears the motto:</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Nec veniam antiquis, sed honorem et præmia posci.<br /></span> +</div> +<p class="right">"Stukeley, secr., 1726";</p></div> + +<p>and the whole of the volume appears to be in Stukeley's +autograph.</p> + +<p>In a quaint preliminary memorandum, he enumerates +the "antient monuments" the society was to study, as:</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>"Old Citys, Stations, Camps, public Buildings, Roads, Temples, +Abbys, Churches, Statues, Tombs, Busts, Inscriptions, Castles, Ruins, +Altars, Ornaments, Utensils, Habits, Seals, Armour, Pourtraits, Medals, +Urns, Pavements, Mapps, Charts, Manuscripts, Genealogy, Historys, +Observations, Emendations of Books, already published, and whatever +may properly belong to the History of Bryttish Antiquitys."</p></div> + +<p>The earlier publications of the society consisted of a +series of fine prints engraved by George Vertue. In 1747 +it began the issue of <i>Vetusta Monumenta</i>, and in 1770 +the first edition of the first volume of <i>Archæologia, or +Miscellaneous Tracts relating to Antiquity</i>, appeared. +The Society's resources were modest. In the year 1736 its +income was only £61, but its expenditure was not more +than £11, and its accumulated funds amounted to £134. +In 1752 it obtained from George II., who declared himself +to be the founder and patron of the society, a Royal +Charter of Incorporation, reciting that:</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>"the study of Antiquity and the History of former times, has ever been +esteemed highly commendable and usefull, not only to improve the minds +of men, but also to incite them to virtuous and noble actions, and such +as may hereafter render them famous and worthy examples to late +posterity."<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_154" id="Page_154">{154}</a></span></p></div> + +<p>The qualifications of a fellow are thus defined in the +charter:—</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>"By how much any persons shall be more excelling in the knowledge +of the Antiquities and History of this and other nations; by how much +the more they are desirous to promote the Honour, Business, and Emoluments +of this Society; and by how much the more eminent they shall be +for Piety, Virtue, Integrity, and Loyalty: by so much the more fit and +worthy shall such person be judged of being elected and admitted into +the said Society."</p></div> + +<p>Like the Royal Society, the Society of Antiquaries +was to have and employ a sergeant-at-mace, and apartments +were allotted to it in Somerset House. From this +close neighbourhood grew an intimate association between +the two societies. Many persons belonged to both, and +although the paths of the two societies have since +diverged, that is still so in the case of about twenty +fellows. A practice grew up of attending each other's +meetings. For more than forty years that agreeable +form of interchange has ceased, and the societies contemplate +each other from opposite corners of the quadrangle +of Burlington House. The Fellows of the Society of +Antiquaries dined together for many years on St. George's +Day, April 23, the day prescribed for their anniversary +by the charter; but after a while the custom fell into +disuse, and it has only been revived of late years.</p> + +<p>In 1753 the Society for the Encouragement of Arts, +Manufactures, and Commerce, now called the Royal +Society of Arts, was established. It held its first public +meeting in March, 1754. It was incorporated by Royal +Charter in 1847, and has for its objects:—</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>"the encouragement of the arts, manufactures, and commerce of the +country, by bestowing rewards for such productions, inventions, or +improvements as tend to the employment of the poor, to the increase of +trade, and to the riches and honour of the kingdom; and for meritorious +works in the various departments of the fine arts; for discoveries, inventions +and improvements in agriculture, chemistry, mechanics, manufactures, +and other useful arts; for the application of such natural and +artificial products, whether of home, colonial, or foreign growth and +manufacture, as may appear likely to afford fresh objects of industry, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_155" id="Page_155">{155}</a></span> +to increase the trade of the realm by extending the sphere of British +commerce; and generally to assist in the advancement, development, and +practical application of every department of science in connection with +the arts, manufactures, and commerce of this country."</p></div> + +<p>Between 1754 and 1783 it distributed £28,434 by way +of premiums for inventions. For more than a century +and a half the society has devoted itself with unabated +zeal to the promotion of its objects—by meetings, +examinations, exhibitions, and in many other ways.</p> + +<p>On January 13, 1800, the Royal Institution was founded. +In the words of one of its most distinguished professors, +it has been a fertile source of the popularity of science. +By means of its lectures, its laboratories, its libraries, and +its rewards for research, it greatly stimulated public +interest in scientific pursuits when there were few other +bodies in existence capable of doing so. It continues to +perform the same useful function, notwithstanding the +great increase in the number of specialist societies since +it was established. A feature of its lectures is the annual +course "adapted to a juvenile auditory." It has appointed +as its professors some of the most illustrious scientific +men, such as Sir Humphry Davy (up to 1812), Brande +(1813 to 1852, and afterwards as honorary professor), +Faraday (1852), and Tyndall (1853). The late Prince +Consort (Albert the Good) took great interest in its work, +and frequently presided at its weekly meetings. It has +a Board of Managers, and also a Committee of Visitors, +annually elected, and the visitors make an annual report +on the state of the institution. After some early pecuniary +difficulties it entered on a career of steady prosperity.</p> + +<p>In 1807 the Geological Society was founded. The +science of geology was very much opposed to popular +notions derived from a literal interpretation of the Hebrew +cosmogony, and was accordingly unpopular among those +who held those notions; but the society steadily pursued +its object, and can now look back upon the hundred years +of its existence with pride and satisfaction. In one of his<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_156" id="Page_156">{156}</a></span> +presidential addresses Sir Charles Lyell quoted the +observation of Hutton, that "We can see neither the +beginning nor the end of that vast series of phenomena +which it is our business as geologists to investigate." +Leonard Horner, another distinguished president, claimed +that the society had been a "powerful instrument for the +advancement of geological science, a centre of good +fellowship, and a band of independent scientific men, who +steadily and fearlessly promote the cause of truth." The +society grants an annual medal, founded in memory of +Wollaston, which has been frequently awarded to foreign +geologists of distinction; and it also administers a fund +bequeathed by him to promote useful researches in +geology.</p> + +<p>In November, 1820, Dr. Burgess, the Bishop of St. +David's, obtained an audience of King George IV., and +laid before him a plan for the establishment of a Royal +Society of Literature. The King took so warm an interest +in the project as to assign out of his privy purse an annual +sum of 1,100 guineas, out of which pensions of 100 guineas +each were awarded to ten royal associates of the society, +and two medals annually granted to distinguished literary +men. Among the royal associates were Samuel Taylor +Coleridge, T. R. Malthus, William Roscoe, and Sharon +Turner. Among the medallists were Dugald Stewart, +Walter Scott, Robert Southey, Washington Irving, and +Henry Hallam. Upon September 15, 1825, the society +received its Charter of Incorporation, in which its object +is defined to be:—</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>"the advancement of literature by the publication of inedited remains +of ancient literature, and of such works as may be of great intrinsic +value, but not of that popular character which usually claims the attention +of publishers; by the promotion of discoveries in literature; by endeavouring +to fix the standard, as far as is practicable, and to preserve the purity +of the English language; by the critical improvement of English +lexicography; by the reading at public meetings of interesting papers +on history, philosophy, poetry, philology, and the arts, and the publication +of such of those papers as shall be approved of; by the assigning of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_157" id="Page_157">{157}</a></span> +honorary rewards to works of great literary merit, and to important discoveries +in literature; and by establishing a correspondence with learned +men in foreign countries for the purpose of literary enquiry and +information."</p></div> + +<p>The first method, the publication of inedited and other +works, has been greatly promoted by a bequest to the +society of £1,692 from the Rev. Dr. Richards. Out of the +income of this fund the <i>Orations of Hyperides</i>, edited +by the Rev. Churchill Babington; the <i>Discourses of +Philoxenus</i>, by Dr. E. A. Wallis Budge; the <i>Chronicle +of Adam of Usk</i>, by Sir E. Maunde Thompson; +Coleridge's <i>Christabel</i>, by E. H. Coleridge; and other +valuable works have been provided. The <i>Transactions</i> +of the society also contain many important papers. On +the death of George IV. the annual gift of 100 guineas to +each of the ten royal associates was withdrawn. The +society now acknowledges literary merit by the award +of the diploma of Honorary Fellow. In this capacity +many distinguished authors, both in this country and +abroad, have been and are associated with the society.</p> + +<p>In its early years the society was hotly attacked by +Macaulay, who held that its claim to be an appreciator of +excellence in literature involved a claim to condemn +literature of which it disapproved, and was equivalent to +the establishment of a literary star-chamber. He +illustrated this by a rather feeble apologue, and nothing +in the subsequent history of the society has shown that +his apprehensions had any foundation. It has been very +modest in the exercise of the functions conferred upon +it by its charter, which included the foundation of a +college and the appointment of professors. At one time +it did appoint a professor of English archæology and +history, and it called upon every royal associate on his +admission to select some branch of literature on which +it should be his duty, once a year at least, to communicate +some disquisition or essay. The subject chosen by +Coleridge was a characteristic one:—<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_158" id="Page_158">{158}</a></span></p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>"The relations of opposition and conjunction, in which the poetry +(the Homeric and tragic), the religion, and the mysteries of ancient +Greece stood each to the other; with the differences between the sacerdotal +and popular religion; and the influences of theology and scholastic logic +on the language and literature of Christendom from the 11th century."</p></div> + +<p>In pursuance of this undertaking he communicated a +disquisition on the "Prometheus" of Æschylus.</p> + +<p>In 1827 the Royal Asiatic Society was founded. As +its title implies, it devotes itself to the study of the +languages, the literature, the history, and the traditions +of the peoples of Asia, especially of those inhabiting +our Indian dependency. It has enrolled in its ranks +many, if not all, the great Indian administrators and +the most distinguished Asiatic scholars. Daughter +societies have been established in the three Presidencies, +and have contributed to the collection of materials for its +work. Its transactions are of acknowledged value and +authority. In its rooms at Albemarle Street a library +and museum have been collected. Its latest publication +is a collection of Baluchi poems by Mr. Longworth +Dames, which has also been issued to the members of +the Folk-lore Society.</p> + +<p>On September 26, 1831, the British Association for the +Advancement of Science held its first meeting at York. +It originated in a letter addressed by Sir David Brewster +to Professor Phillips, as secretary to the York Philosophical +Society. The statement of its objects appended +to its rules, as drawn up by the Rev. William Vernon +Harcourt, is as follows:—</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>"The Association contemplates no interference with the ground +occupied by other institutions. Its objects are:—To give a stronger +impulse and a more systematic direction to scientific inquiry—to promote +the intercourse of those, who cultivate science in different parts of the +British Empire, with one another and with foreign philosophers—to +obtain a more general attention to the objects of science, and a removal +of any disadvantages of a public kind which impede its progress."</p></div> + +<p>The association was well described by the late Mr. +Spottiswoode as "general in its comprehensiveness; special<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_159" id="Page_159">{159}</a></span> +in its sectional arrangement." The general business of +its meetings consists (1) in receiving and discussing communications +upon scientific subjects at the various sections +into which it is divided; (2) in distributing, under the +advice of a Committee of Recommendations, the funds +arising from the subscriptions of members and associates; +and (3) in electing a council upon whom devolves the +conduct of affairs until the next meeting. Although the +meetings are held in all parts of the United Kingdom, +and have been held in Canada and South Africa, the +British Association may be correctly described as a +London learned society, as its headquarters are in +London, where the council meets and directs its continuous +activities. One principal feature of its work, that of the +Research Committees, which, either with or without a +grant of money, pursue special enquiries with the view +of reporting to the next annual meeting, continues +throughout the year. The original designation of what +are now the sections was "Committees of Sciences," +and these were—(1) mathematics and general physics, +(2) chemistry and mineralogy, (3) geology and +geography, (4) zoology and botany, (5) anatomy and +physiology, (6) statistics. The sectional arrangement was +begun in 1835, and the sections are now constituted +as follows—(<i>a</i>) mathematical and physical science, +(<i>b</i>) chemistry, (<i>c</i>) geology, (<i>d</i>) zoology, (<i>e</i>) geography, +(<i>f</i>) economic science and statistics, (<i>g</i>) engineering, +(<i>h</i>) anthropology, (<i>i</i>) physiology, (<i>k</i>) botany, (<i>l</i>) educational +science. At each annual meeting, which lasts a week, the +president of the next meeting is chosen, but the previous +president remains in office until the first day (Wednesday) +of that meeting, when he introduces his successor, who +delivers an address. Many memorable addresses have +been delivered by the distinguished men who have held +that office. Each section has also a president, chosen for +the year, and he delivers an address at the opening of +the proceedings of his section. These addresses usually<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_160" id="Page_160">{160}</a></span> +relate to the progress during the year, or during recent +years, of the science dealt with by the section, or to some +interesting matter developed by the personal researches +of the president himself. Men of eminence in the various +sciences are generally selected for and willingly accept the +office of Sectional President. The meetings of the British +Association have been called a "Parliament of Science," +and its influence in promoting scientific movements and +rendering science popular has been very great.</p> + +<p>In 1833 the Royal Geographical Society was founded. +It may fairly be called the most popular of all the +special societies, having about 4,000 members. It is +also one of the most wealthy, having an income of about +£10,000 a year. It has accumulated a fine series of +maps, and a large library of geographical literature. +Its quarterly journal is a store-house of the most recent +information relating to geographical exploration. By +medals and other rewards to explorers, by prizes awarded +in schools and training colleges, by the loan of instruments +to travellers, by the preparation of codes of +instruction for their use, and in many other ways, it applies +its resources to the extension of geographical knowledge. +It has taken an active part in the promotion of Arctic +and Antarctic exploration. As geographical researches +are matters of great public interest, its meetings are +sometimes important social functions, as on a recent +occasion, when a foreign prince was the lecturer, and our +King attended and spoke.</p> + +<p>On March 15, 1834, the Statistical Society (now +Royal Statistical) was founded. It was one of the first +fruits of the activity of the British Association, which +established a Statistical Committee at the Cambridge +meeting in 1833, with Babbage as president. Their +report recommended the formation of a society for the +careful collection, arrangement, discussion, and publication +of facts bearing on or illustrating the complex +relations of modern society in its social, economical, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_161" id="Page_161">{161}</a></span> +political aspects, especially facts which can be stated +numerically and arranged in tables. The first president +was the Marquis of Lansdowne, and among his successors +have been many statesmen, such as Lord John Russell, +Mr. Gladstone, and Lord Goschen; authorities on finance, +as Lord Overstone, Mr. Newmarch, and Lord Avebury; +and eminent writers on statistics, as Dr. Farr, Sir Robert +Giffen, and the Right Hon. Charles Booth. As becomes +the orderly mind of a statistician, the society has been +very regular in its publications, having for seventy +years issued a yearly volume in quarterly parts, which +form a veritable mine of statistical information.</p> + +<p>The society presents a Guy medal (in memory of +Dr. W. A. Guy) to the authors of valuable papers or to +others who have promoted its work, and a Howard +medal (in memory of the great philanthropist) to the +author of the best essay on a prescribed subject, generally +having relation to the public health. It has accumulated +a fine library of about 40,000 volumes of a special +character, containing the statistical publications of all +civilised countries. It has conducted some special +enquiries—as into medical charities, the production and +consumption of meat and milk, and the farm school +system of the Continent—upon which it has published +reports.</p> + +<p>Among recent developments of statistical method in +which the society has taken part may be mentioned the +use of index-numbers for affording a standard of comparison +between statistics of different years, and a means +of correction of errors that would otherwise arise; and +the increasing use of the higher mathematical analysis +in determining the probabilities of error and defining the +curves of frequency in statistical observations. Professor +Edgeworth, Messrs. Bowley, Yule, Hooker, and others, +have made contributions to the <i>Journal</i> of the society +on these matters.</p> + +<p>In 1844 an Ethnological Society was established,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_162" id="Page_162">{162}</a></span> +under the presidency of Sir Charles Malcolm. Dr. +Richard King, the founder, became its secretary. In +1846 Dr. J. C. Prichard became president, and he and +Dr. King fulfilled respectively the same functions in an +ethnological sub-section of the section of zoology of the +British Association, which then met for the first time. +In Prichard's first anniversary address to the society, he +defines ethnology as "the history of human races or of +the various tribes of men who constitute the population +of the world. It comprehends all that can be learned +as to their origin and relations to each other." Prichard +died in 1848, and Sir C. Malcolm resumed the presidency, +which he held until his death on November 12, 1851. +In that year ethnology was transferred from the zoological +to the geographical section of the British Association. +Sir B. C. Brodie became the next president of the society. +He retired in 1854, and was succeeded by Sir James +Clark. The fourth and last volume of the first series +of the society's <i>Journal</i> was published in 1856, and a +series of <i>Transactions</i> begun in 1861. At that time +Mr. John Crawfurd was president of the society, and he +retained the office until his death in 1868, when he was +succeeded by Professor Huxley.</p> + +<p>In 1862 Dr. James Hunt, the Honorary Foreign +Secretary of the Ethnological Society, withdrew from it, +and founded the Anthropological Society of London, +which held its first meeting on February 24, 1863, under +his presidency. In his inaugural address, he defined +anthropology as the science of the whole nature of man, +and ethnology as the history or science of nations or +races. The new society was active and aggressive. It +published translations of works of such writers as +Broca, Pouchet, Vogt, and Waitz, and of the famous +treatise of Blumenbach. Some of the papers read before +it attracted much attention, and were thought to have a +political bias. Many men whose names were well known +in the scientific world adhered to the Ethnological<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_163" id="Page_163">{163}</a></span> +Society, and that society, under Mr. Crawfurd, entered +upon a more active career. The rivalry between the +two societies was prosecuted with great vigour until +January, 1871, when Professor Huxley effected an +amalgamation between them.</p> + +<p>The title of the combined societies was agreed upon +as the "Anthropological Institute of Great Britain and +Ireland," to which, in 1907, has been added by the King's +command the prefix "Royal." In 1871 the department +of ethnology in the section of biology in the British +Association became the department of anthropology, +and in 1884 anthropology became a section of itself. +This was the final recognition by the Parliament of +Science that Hunt had fought for twenty years before. +In the interval, the claim of anthropology to this +recognition had been established by many great works, +such as Huxley's <i>Man's Place in Nature</i>, Darwin's +<i>Descent of Man</i>, Tylor's <i>Early History of Mankind</i>, and +Lubbock's <i>Prehistoric Times</i>. Besides its annual +<i>Journal</i>, the Anthropological Institute publishes a +monthly periodical entitled <i>Man</i>, and it has issued +several separate monographs. In 1878 the branch of +anthropology, aptly termed "Folk-lore" by the late +Mr. W. J. Thoms, became so popular as to call for the +establishment of a separate society, which publishes a +quarterly journal entitled <i>Folk-lore</i>, and has annually +issued one or more volumes of collections of folk-lore.</p> + +<p>In 1844 a new departure was taken by the establishment +of the British Archæological Association, a body +which was intended to take the same place with regard +to archæology that the British Association occupied +with regard to science, holding meetings in various +parts of the country where there existed objects of +specially archæological interest. It held its first meeting +at Canterbury, under the presidency of Lord Albert +Conyngham (afterwards Lord Londesborough), and +arranged its work in four sections—primæval, mediæval,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_164" id="Page_164">{164}</a></span> +architectural, and historical. Before a second meeting +could be held, violent dissensions arose, and the +association split into two. In the result honours were +divided between the two bodies, those who retained the +leadership of Lord Albert retaining also the title of +British Archæological Association; while those who had +for their president the Marquis of Northampton retained +the control of the <i>Archæological Journal</i>, and adopted +the title of "Archæological Institute of Great Britain +and Ireland," to which has since been prefixed the word +"Royal." Both bodies still exist, though the causes of +controversy have long died out.</p> + +<p>Shortly afterwards, County Archæological Societies in +London and greater London began to be formed. In +1846 the Sussex Society, in 1853 the Essex Society, in +1854 the Surrey Society, in 1855 the London and +Middlesex Society, and in 1857 the Kent Society were +established. Each of these societies has published +transactions and other works of solid value. In each +the annual or more frequent excursion to places of +archæological interest within the county is an essential +feature, tending to the dissemination of knowledge and +to the preservation of antiquities, and affording the +advantages of social intercourse. Societies have also +been established for the like purposes within more +restricted areas, as in Hampstead, Battersea, Balham, +Lewisham, Whitechapel, and elsewhere.</p> + +<p>Of merely publishing societies, the Percy, the +Camden, the Shakespeare, and the Arundel have run +their course; but many others, as the Roxburgh, the +Harleian, the New Palæographic, and the Palæontological +still exist to delight their subscribers with the +reproduction of rare works.</p> + +<p>In this summary account of the principal Learned +Societies of London it has not been possible to include +many societies of great importance, such as the Colleges +of Physicians and Surgeons, the numerous societies<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_165" id="Page_165">{165}</a></span> +connected with other professional pursuits, the Linnæan, +Zoological, Botanical, and other societies devoted to +natural history; the Royal Astronomical Society, which +has important public functions; the Royal Academy, and +other institutions devoted to art. The roll of Learned +Societies is being constantly increased. Among recent +additions may be mentioned the British Academy for +Historical Studies, and the Sociological Society.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_166" id="Page_166">{166}</a></span></p> +</div> + + +<hr class="chap" /> +<div class="chapter"> +<h2><a name="LITERARY_SHRINES_OF_OLD_LONDON" id="LITERARY_SHRINES_OF_OLD_LONDON">LITERARY SHRINES OF OLD LONDON</a></h2> + +<p class='p3'><span class="smcap">By Elsie M. Lang</span></p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/image_013.jpg" width="50" height="47" alt="" /> +</div> + +<p class='p3'>From the Borough to St. James's</p> + + + +<div> +<img class="drop-cap" src="images/drop-l.png" width="100" height="123" alt="" /> +</div> + +<p class="drop-cap">Leigh Hunt was of opinion that "one of the best +secrets of enjoyment is the art of cultivating +pleasant associations," and, with his example +before us, we will endeavour to recall some of +those that are to be met with on a walk from the Borough +to St. James's, from one of the poorest parts of our city +to one of the richest. The Borough, dusty, noisy, toil-worn +as it is, is yet, he tells us, "the most classical +ground in the metropolis." From the "Tabard" inn—now +only a memory, though its contemporary, the +"George," hard by, gives us some idea of its look in +mediæval times—there rode forth, one bright spring morning, +"Sir Jeffrey Chaucer" and "nyne and twenty" +pilgrims "in a companye ... to wenden on (a) +pilgrimage to Caunterbury with ful devout courage." A +fellow-poet of Chaucer's, John Gower, lies buried close +at hand in Southwark Cathedral, "under a tomb of stone, +with his image of stone also over him." He was one +of the earliest benefactors of this church, then known as +St. Mary Overy, and founded therein a chantry, where +masses should be said for the benefit of his soul. Stones +in the pavement of the choir likewise commemorate John +Fletcher, Philip Massinger, and Edmund Shakespeare, +who lie in unmarked graves somewhere within the +precincts of the cathedral.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_167" id="Page_167">{167}</a></span></p> + +<p>Not a stone's throw from the Borough is the Bankside, +extending from Blackfriars Bridge out beyond Southwark, +a mean and dirty thoroughfare, with the grey Thames +on one side, and on the other dull houses, grimy warehouses, +and gloomy offices. How changed from the semi-rural +resort of Elizabethan days, when swans floated on +the river, and magnificent barges, laden with gaily dressed +nobles and their attendants, were continually passing by! +Great must have been the pleasure traffic then, for +according to Taylor, "the Water Poet," who plied his +trade as waterman and wrote his verses on the Bankside +in the early days of Elizabeth's successor, "the number +of watermen and those that live and are maintained by +them, and by the labour of the oar and scull, between +the bridge of Windsor and Gravesend, cannot be fewer +than forty thousand; the cause of the greater half of +which multitude hath been the players playing on the +Bankside." Besides the players, the brilliant band of +dramatists who shed lustre on the reign of the maiden +Queen frequented it, not only on account of the +pleasantness of its situation, but because of the near +proximity of the theatres, for the Globe, the Rose, +and the Hope all stood on the site now occupied by +the brewery of Messrs. Barclay and Perkins, while the +Swan was not far off. It is a well-authenticated fact that +both Shakespeare and Ben Jonson played at the Globe, +and patronised the "Falcon" tavern, the name of which +still lingers in Falcon Dock and Falcon Wharf, Nos. 79 +and 80, Bankside; and while in the meantime they were +producing their masterpieces, Chapman, Dekker, and +Middleton were at the height of their fame, Beaumont +and Fletcher about to begin their career, and Philip +Massinger was newly arrived in town. Some of these +Bankside dramatists were well born and rich—such as +Francis Beaumont, whose father was a Knight and a +Justice of the Common Pleas; and John Fletcher, who +was a son of the Bishop of London. Others were of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_168" id="Page_168">{168}</a></span> +obscure birth and penniless—like Ben Jonson, who had +been forced to follow the trade of a bricklayer, and +Dekker and Marston, whom he twitted "with their +defective doublet and ravelled satin sleeves," and Philip +Massinger, who in early days went about begging +urgently for the loan of £5. But whatever they had or +lacked, certain it is that their common art levelled all +barriers between them, for though the chief of all the +friendships on the Bankside was that of Beaumont and +Fletcher—between whom was "a wonderful consimilarity +of fancy ... which caused the dearnesse of friendship +between them so that they lived together on the +Bankside ... (and had) the same cloaths and cloaks +between them"—yet Massinger collaborated with Fletcher +in at least thirteen plays, with Dekker in one, and with +Ford in two, while Dekker was occasionally associated +with Middleton, and Middleton with Webster and Drayton. +But the Elizabethan dramatists did not confine themselves +to the Bankside; on certain nights they repaired to the +"Mermaid" tavern, which used to stand on the south +side of Cheapside, between Bread and Friday Streets, +to attend the meetings of the famous Mermaid Club, +said to have been founded by Sir Walter Raleigh. Here +were to be found Shakespeare, Spenser, Beaumont, +Fletcher, Ben Jonson, Carew, Donne, and many others, +in eager witty converse. Beaumont well described +the brilliancy of these gatherings in his poem to +Ben Jonson:—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"What things have we seen<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Done at the Mermaid! Heard words that have been<br /></span> +<span class="i0">So nimble, and so full of subtle flame,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">As if that everyone from whence they came<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Had meant to put his whole wit in a jest<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And had resolved to live a fool the rest<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Of his dull life."<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>Another favourite haunt of theirs was the "Boar's +Head," which stood on the spot now marked by the statue<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_169" id="Page_169">{169}</a></span> +of William IV., at the junction of Eastcheap and Gracechurch +Street. At this tavern Falstaff and Prince Hal +concocted many of their wildest pranks. In later days the +Elizabethan poets and dramatists, led by Ben Jonson, went +even further afield—to the "Devil" tavern, which stood +at No. 1, Fleet Street, where they held their meetings in +a room called the "Apollo," the chief adornments of which, +a bust of Apollo and a board with an inscription, +"Welcome to the oracle of Apollo," are still to be seen +in an upper room of Messrs. Child's Bank, which now +occupies the site. Ben Jonson tells us that "the first +speech in my 'Catiline,' spoken to <i>Scylla's Ghost</i>, was +writ after I had parted with my friends at the 'Devil' +tavern; I had drank well that night, and had brave +notions."</p> + +<p>We have records of the deaths of two at least of +these dramatists on the Bankside—viz., that of Philip +Massinger, who died "in his own house, near the play-house +on the Bankside," in 1639; and Fletcher, "who dyed +of the plague on the 19th of August, 1625." "The parish +clerk," says Aubrey, "told me that he was his (Fletcher's) +Taylor, and that Mr. Fletcher staying for a suit of cloathes +before he retired into the country, Death stopped his +journey and laid him low there."</p> + +<p>Cheapside, so named from the Chepe, or old London +market, along the south side of the site of which it runs, +has been a place of barter ever since the reign of +Henry VI., when a market was held there daily for the +sale of every known commodity. It is easy to see where +the vendors of some of the articles had their stands by +the names of the surrounding streets—Bread Street, Fish +Street, Milk Street, etc. Later on the stalls were transformed +into permanent shops, with a dwelling-place for +their owners above, and a fair-sized garden at the back. +Despite the commercial spirit that has always pervaded +this region, it has given birth to two famous poets—the +sweet songster Herrick, who sings in one of his poems of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_170" id="Page_170">{170}</a></span></p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"The golden Cheapside where the earth<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Of Julia Herrick gave to me my birth,"<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>golden, perhaps, having reference to his father, who was +a goldsmith; and greater still, John Milton, who first +saw the light in Bread Street, at the sign of the "Spread +Eagle," in a house which was afterwards destroyed in the +Great Fire. It must have been a house of comfortable +dimensions, for it covered the site now occupied by +Nos. 58 to 63, the business premises of a firm who exhibit +a bust of Milton, with an inscription, in a room on their +top floor. Milton's father, moreover, had grown rich in +his profession, which was that of a scrivener, had been +made a Judge, and knighted five years before the birth +of his son, so it is evident the poet began life in easy +circumstances. He was baptised in All Hallows, a church +in Bread Street destroyed in 1897. In Bow Church there +is a tablet in memory of Milton, which was taken from +All Hallows. When he was ten years of age he began +to go to Paul's School, which stood in those days on +the east side of St. Paul's Churchyard, between Watling +Street and Cheapside. Aubrey records that "when he +went to schoole, when he was very young, he studied +very hard, and sat up very late, commonly till twelve or +one o'clock at night, and his father ordered the mayde +to sitt up for him, and at these years (ten) he composed +many copies of verses which might well have become a +riper age." He continued at this school, the old site +of which is marked by a tablet on a warehouse, until he +was sixteen. Some twenty years later Samuel Pepys +was a pupil at Paul's School, and later on in life witnessed +its destruction in the Great Fire. Milton would seem +to have always cherished a great affection for the city, +for after his return from his travels he seldom lived beyond +the sound of Bow Bells, once only venturing as far as +Westminster; and when he died he was buried in St. +Giles's, Cripplegate, in the same grave as his father. +Indeed, the city proper was the birthplace of several<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_171" id="Page_171">{171}</a></span> +poets, for was not Pope born in Lombard Street, Gray +in Cornhill, and Edmund Spenser in East Smithfield, +while Lord Macaulay spent his earlier years in Birchin +Lane?</p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/image_030.jpg" width="600" height="379" alt="" /> +<div class="caption"><p class='center'><span class="smcap">Cheapside, with the Cross, as they appeared in 1660.</span></p></div> +</div> + +<p>In the narrow confines of Paternoster Row, where the +tall fronts of the houses are so close together that only +a thin strip of sky is visible between them, Charlotte +Brontë and her sister Anne, fresh from the rugged solitudes +of their bleak Yorkshire moors, awoke on the +morning of their first visit to the great capital of which +they had so often dreamed, and, looking out of the dim +windows of the Chapter Coffee-house, saw "the risen +sun struggling through the fog, and overhead above the +house-tops, co-elevate almost with the clouds ... a +solemn orbed mass dark blue and dim the dome" (of +St. Paul's).</p> + +<p>Fleet Street has always been the haunt of the +"knights of the pen," and even in these modern days +the names of newspapers stare at the passer-by on every +side, while at every step he jostles an ink-stained satellite +of some great journal. But although these ink-stained +ones are to be met with in Fleet Street at every hour +of the day and night, they do not live there like the +writers of old time—Michael Drayton, for instance, who +"lived at ye baye-windowe house next the east end of +St. Dunstan's Church"; and Izaak Walton, who kept a +linen-draper's shop "in a house two doors west of the +end of Chancery Lane," and on his infrequent holidays +went a-fishing in the River Lea at Tottenham High +Cross. Abraham Cowley, again, was born over his father's +grocer's shop, which "abutted on Sargeants' Inn," and +here, as a little child, he devoured the <i>Faerie Queen</i>, and +was made "irrecoverably a poet." James Shirley lived +near the Inner Temple Lane; John Locke in Dorset +Court. In Salisbury Square, formerly Salisbury Court, +Thomas Sackville, first Earl of Dorset, the precursor of +Spenser, John Dryden, and Samuel Richardson, all had<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_172" id="Page_172">{172}</a></span> +a residence at one time or another. Richardson built a +large printing establishment on the site now occupied +by Lloyd's newspaper offices, where he continued to carry +on business many years after he had removed his private +residence to the West End. He was buried, moreover, +in St. Bride's Church in 1761, a large stone in the nave +between pews 12 and 13 recording the fact. But greatest +and most constant of Fleet Street habitués was Dr. +Johnson. For ten years he lived at 17, Gough Square, +busy in an upper room upon his great Dictionary. Here +he lost his "beloved Tetty," to whose memory he ever +remained faithful. "All his affection had been concentrated +on her. He had neither brother nor sister, neither +son nor daughter." Although twenty years his senior, +with a complexion reddened and coarsened by the too +liberal use of both paint and strong cordials, yet "to +him she was beautiful as the Gunnings, and witty as +Lady Mary." On leaving Gough Square he lived for +a few years in the Temple, where he received his first +visit from Boswell, and made the acquaintance of Oliver +Goldsmith. The latter was then living at 6, Wine Office +Court, Fleet Street, where Johnson, visiting him one +morning in response to an urgent message, found that +"his landlady had arrested him for his rent." He showed +Johnson his MS. of the just-completed <i>Vicar of +Wakefield</i>, which he looked into, and instantly comprehending +its merit, went out and sold it to a bookseller +for sixty pounds. In 1765 Johnson returned to Fleet +Street, and lived for eleven years at 7, Johnson's Court. +Here Boswell dined with him for the first time on Easter +Day, 1773, and found to his surprise "everything in very +good order." Walking up the Court one day in company +with Topham Beauclerk, Boswell confessed to him that +he "had a veneration" for it, because the great doctor +lived there, and was much gratified to learn that Beauclerk +felt the same "reverential enthusiasm." In later years +Dickens stole up this Court one dark December evening,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_173" id="Page_173">{173}</a></span> +and, with beating heart, dropped his first original MS. +into the letter-box of <i>The Monthly Magazine</i>, the office +of which stood on the site now occupied by Mr. Henry +Sell's premises. No. 8, Bolt Court, was the next and last +residence of Dr. Johnson; here, on December 13th, 1784, +he met the inevitable crisis, for which he had always felt +an indescribable terror and loathing, and passed peacefully +and happily away. Johnson had always had a +great predilection for club or tavern life, partly because +it enabled him to escape for a while from the hypochondria +which always dogged his footsteps. He loved nothing +so much as to gather kindred spirits around him and +spend long evenings in congenial conversation. He would +sit, "the Jupiter of a little circle, sometimes indeed nodding +approbation, but always prompt on the slightest contradiction +to launch the thunders of rebuke and sarcasm." +There was not much expense attached to these gatherings, +for it is recorded of one of the clubs he founded that +the outlay was not to exceed sixpence per person an +evening, with a fine of twopence for those who did not +attend. Among the Fleet Street haunts thus frequently +resorted to by Dr. Johnson and his friends were the +"Cocke," patronised in former years by Pepys, and in later +years by Thackeray, Dickens, and Tennyson; the +"Cheshire Cheese," the only house of the kind which +remains as it was in Dr. Johnson's day; the "Mitre," also +formerly patronised by Pepys; and the "Devil," where +the poets laureate had been wont to repair and read their +birthday odes. St. Clement Danes, too, is connected with +Johnson, for, in spite of his love of festivity, he was devout, +and regularly attended this church, occupying pew No. 18 +in the north gallery, now marked by a brass plate. +Boswell records that "he carried me with him to the +church of St. Clement Danes, where he had his seat, +and his behaviour was, as I had imagined to myself, +solemnly devout."<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_174" id="Page_174">{174}</a></span></p> + +<p>One more memory of Fleet Street before we leave +it, in connection with Dick's Coffee-house, which used +to stand at Nos. 7 and 8. In December, 1763, the poet +Cowper, then a student in the Inner Temple, was appointed +Clerk of the Journals of the House of Lords. Delicate, +shy, intensely sensitive, and with a strong predisposition +to insanity, the dread of these onerous public duties disturbed +the balance of his morbid brain. His madness +broke out one morning at Dick's, as he himself afterwards +narrated. He said:</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>"At breakfast I read the newspaper, and in it a letter, which the +further I perused it the more closely engaged my attention. I cannot +now recollect the purport of it; but before I had finished it, it appeared +demonstratively true to me that it was a libel or satire upon me. The +author appeared to be acquainted with my purpose of self-destruction, +and to have written that letter on purpose to secure and hasten the +execution of it. My mind probably at this time began to be disordered; +however it was, I was certainly given to a strong delusion. I said within +myself, 'Your cruelty shall be gratified, you shall have your revenge,' +and flinging down the paper in a fit of strong passion, I rushed hastily +out of the room, directing my way towards the fields, where I intended to +find some lane to die in, or if not, determined to poison myself in a ditch, +when I could meet with one sufficiently retired."</p></div> + +<p>This paroxysm ended in Cowper trying to hang himself, +but, the rope breaking, he went down to the Thames to +the Custom House Quay and threatened to drown himself. +This attempt, however, also failed, and friends +interfering, he was removed to an asylum, where he +remained eighteen months.</p> + +<p>From Fleet Street it is but a step to the Temple, with +its grey quiet corners full of echoing memories, stretching +back even to the days of Shakespeare, whose <i>Twelfth +Night</i> was performed before an audience of his contemporaries +in the self-same Middle Temple Hall that +still confronts us. The names of Henry Fielding, +Edmund Burke, John Gower, Thomas Shadwell, William +Wycherley, Nicholas Rowe, Francis Beaumont, William +Congreve, John Horne Tooke, Thomas Day, Tom Moore,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_175" id="Page_175">{175}</a></span> +Sheridan, George Colman, jun., Marston, and Ford, are +all upon the Temple rolls and each must in his day +have been a familiar figure among the ancient buildings. +But Charles Lamb is the presiding genius of the place.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>"I was born and passed the first seven years of my life in the Temple," +he tells us. "Its church, its halls, its garden, its fountains, its river +... these are my oldest recollections. Indeed it is the most elegant +spot in the metropolis. What a transition for a countryman visiting +London for the first time, the passing from the crowded Strand or Fleet +Street, by unexpected avenues into its magnificent ample squares, its +classic green recesses. What a cheerful liberal look hath that portion of +it, which from three sides, overlooks the greater gardens, that goodly pile +... confronting with massy contrast, the lighter, older, more +fantastically shrouded one, named of Harcourt, with the cheerful Crown +Office Row (place of my kindly engendure) right opposite the stately +stream, which washes the garden foot.... A man would give something +to have been born in such a place."</p></div> + +<p>When Lamb was twenty-five years of age he went back +to live in the Temple, at 16, Mitre Court Buildings, in +an "attic storey for the air." His bed faced the river, +and by "perking on my haunches and supporting my +carcase with my elbows, without much wrying my neck +I can see," he wrote to a friend, "the white sails glide +by the bottom of King's Bench Walk as I lie in my bed." +Here he passed nine happy years, and then, after a short +stay in Southampton Buildings, he returned to the +Temple for the second time, to 4, Inner Temple Lane, +fully intending to pass the remainder of his life within +its precincts. His new set of chambers "looked out +upon a gloomy churchyard-like court, called Hare Court, +with three trees and a pump in it." But fate intervened, +and he and his sister soon after left the Temple, never +to return. It was no easy parting, however, for he wrote +in after years, "I thought we never could have been torn +up from the Temple. Indeed it was an ugly wrench.... +We never can strike root so deep in any other +ground."<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_176" id="Page_176">{176}</a></span></p> + +<p>It was when Dr. Johnson had a set of chambers on +the first floor of No. 1, Inner Temple Lane, that Boswell +first went to see him. Boswell wrote:</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>"He received me very courteously, but it must be confessed that his +apartment, furniture, and morning dress were sufficiently uncouth. His +brown suit of clothes looked very rusty, he had on a little old shrivelled +unpowdered wig which was too small for his head, his shirt-neck and +knees of his breeches were loose, his black worsted stockings ill drawn +up, and he had a pair of unbuckled shoes by way of slippers. But all +these slovenly peculiarities were forgotten the moment that he began +to talk."</p></div> + +<p>Boswell, indeed, conceived so violent an admiration for +him that he took rooms in Farrar's Buildings in order +to be near him. Oliver Goldsmith seems to have followed +his example, for he went to lodge first in 2, Garden Court, +and afterwards in 2, Brick Court, on the right-hand side, +looking out over the Temple Garden. Thackeray, who, +years afterwards, lodged in the same set of rooms, wrote:</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>"I have been many a time in the Chambers in the Temple which +were his, and passed up the staircase, which Johnson and Burke and +Reynolds trod to see their friend, their poet, their kind Goldsmith—the +stair on which the poor women sat weeping bitterly when they heard that +the greatest and most generous of men was dead within the black oak +door."</p></div> + +<p>A stone slab with the inscription, "Here lies Oliver +Goldsmith," was placed on the north side of Temple +Church, as near as possible to the spot where he is +supposed to have been buried.</p> + +<p>No. 2, Fountain Court, was the last house of William +Blake, the poet-painter, the seer of visions, who had a +set of rooms on the first floor, from whence a glimpse +of the river was to be obtained. It was very poorly +furnished, though always clean and orderly, and decorated +only with his own pictures, but to the eager young +disciples who flocked around him it was "the house of +the Interpreter." When he lay there upon his death-bed, +at the close of a blazing August day in 1827, beautiful +songs in praise of his Creator fell from his lips, and as +his wife, his faithful companion of forty-five years of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_177" id="Page_177">{177}</a></span> +struggle and stress, drew near to catch them more distinctly, +he told her with a smile, "My beloved! they are +not mine! no, they are not mine!"</p> + +<p>Passing out into the Strand, we are confronted by +the Law Courts. In former days this site was occupied +by a network of streets, one of which was Shire Lane, +where the members of the Kit Cat Club first held their +gatherings, and toasted Lady Mary Wortley Montagu, +when, as a child of seven, enthroned on her proud +father's knee, she spent "the happiest hour of her life," +overwhelmed with caresses, compliments, and sweetmeats. +The famous "Grecian" stood in Devereux Court, and the +"Fountain" where Johnson, on his first arrival in London, +read his tragedy <i>Irene</i> to his fellow-traveller Garrick, on +the site since occupied by Simpson's for several generations. +The Strand "Turk's Head" was at No. 142, and +patronised by Johnson, because "the mistress of it is +a good civil woman and has not much business"; and the +"Coal Hole," immortalised by Thackeray as the "Cave +of Harmony" in <i>The Newcomes</i>, where Terry's Theatre +now uprears its front. But the chief literary association +of the Strand is that of Congreve, who spent his last +years in Surrey Street, "almost blind with cataracts," and +"never rid of the gout," but looking, as Swift wrote to +Stella, "young and fresh and cheerful as ever." He had +always been a favourite with society, and Surrey Street +was thronged by his visitors, among whom were four of +the most beautiful women of the day—Mrs. Bracegirdle, +Mrs. Oldfield, Lady Mary Wortley Montagu, and +Henrietta Duchess of Marlborough. Voltaire, too, who +greatly admired his work, sought him out when staying +at the "White Peruke," Covent Garden, and was much +disgusted by the affectation with which Congreve begged +to be regarded as a man of fashion, who produced airy +trifles for the amusement of his idle hours. "If you had +been so unfortunate as to have been a <i>mere</i> gentleman," +said Voltaire, "I should never have taken the trouble of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_178" id="Page_178">{178}</a></span> +coming to see you." In spite of the looseness of his +life, Congreve had early acquired habits of frugality, and +continuing to practise them when the need for economy +had disappeared, he contrived to amass a fortune of +£10,000, which, on his death in 1789, he bequeathed to +the Duchess of Marlborough, his latest infatuation. This +sum, which would have restored the fallen fortunes of +his nearest relatives, was a mere nothing to the wealthy +beauty, who expended it in the purchase of a magnificent +diamond necklace, which she continually wore in memory +of the dead dramatist.</p> + +<p>The whole of Covent Garden is classic ground, from +its association with the wits of Dryden's time, when Bow +Street and Tavistock Street were in turn regarded as +the Bond Street of the fashionable world. Edmund +Waller, William Wycherley, and Henry Fielding, each +lived in Bow Street. In Russell Street stood the three +great coffee-houses of the seventeenth and eighteenth +centuries—Wills', Button's, and Tom's. Wills' stood at +No. 21, at the corner of Russell Street and Bow Street; +here Pepys stopped one February evening on his way +to fetch his wife, and heard much "witty and pleasant +discourse"; here Dryden had his special arm-chair, in +winter by the fire, and in summer on the balcony, and +was always ready to arbitrate in any literary dispute. It +is said that Pope, before he was twelve years old, persuaded +his friends to bring him here, so that he might gaze +upon the aged Dryden, the hero of his childish imagination. +Dr. Johnson, Addison, Steele, and Smollett were +all regular visitors. Button's, which stood on the south +side of Russell Street, and Tom's at No. 17, were equally +popular, and the Bedford Coffee-house "under the piazza +in Covent Garden" was another favourite resort.</p> + +<p>It was in Russell Street, in the bookshop of Thomas +Davies, the actor, that Boswell had his eagerly desired +first meeting with Dr. Johnson, which he describes as +follows:—<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_179" id="Page_179">{179}</a></span></p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>"At last, on Monday, the 16th of May, when I was sitting in Mr. Davies' +back parlour, after having drunk tea with him and Mrs. Davies, Johnson +came unexpectedly into the shop, and Mr. Davies having perceived him +through the glass door in the room in which we were sitting advancing +towards us, he announced his awful approach to me somewhat in the +manner of an actor in the part of Horatio, when he addresses Hamlet on +the appearance of his father's ghost: 'Look, my lord, he comes.'"</p></div> + +<p>In St. Paul's, Covent Garden, were buried Samuel +Butler, author of <i>Hudibras</i>, Mrs. Centlivre, Thomas +Southerne, John Wolcot, and Wycherley, but when the +church was burned down in 1786 all trace of their graves +disappeared.</p> + +<p>One other literary memory before we leave the Strand; +it is connected with what was once No. 30, Hungerford +Stairs (now part of Villiers Street), where stood Warren's +blacking factory, in which the child Dickens passed days +of miserable drudgery, labelling pots of blacking for a +few shillings a week. He describes it in <i>David Copperfield</i>, +under the name of "Murdstone and Grimsby's +warehouse, down in Blackfriars." It was "a crazy old +house, with a wharf of its own, abutting on the water +when the tide was in, and on the mud when the tide was +out, and literally overrun with rats."</p> + +<p>Pall Mall, the centre of club-land, in the eighteenth +century was the "ordinary residence of all strangers," +probably on account of its proximity to the fashionable +chocolate and coffee-houses (the forerunners of the clubs), +which, as Defoe wrote, "were all so close together that +in an hour you could see the company at them all." In +Pall Mall itself were the "Smyrna," the "King's Arms," +and the "Star and Garter." At the "King's Arms" the +Kit Cat Club met when it had quitted its quarters in +Shire Lane, and at the "Star and Garter" the "Brothers" +were presided over by Swift. The "Tully's Head," a +bookshop kept by the wonderful Robert Dodsley, footman, +poet, dramatist, and publisher, was another favourite +lounging place of the times.</p> + +<p>In Charing Cross were the "Rummer," at No. 45, kept<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_180" id="Page_180">{180}</a></span> +by the uncle of Matthew Prior; Lockett's, two doors +off; the "Turk's Head," next door to No. 17; and the +British Coffee-house, which stood on the site now +occupied by the offices of the London County Council.</p> + +<p>In St. James's Street the great coffee and chocolate-houses +positively elbowed each other up and down, just +as the clubs which succeeded them do in the present day. +The "Thatched House," where the Literary Club, founded +by Dr. Johnson, held its meetings under the presidency +of Swift and his contemporaries; the "St. James's," where +Addison "appeared on Sunday nights," and "Swift was +a notable figure," for "those who frequented the place +had been astonished day after day, by the entry of a +clergyman, unknown to any there, who laid his hat on +the table, and strode up and down the room with rapid +steps, heeding no one, and absorbed in his own thoughts. +His strange manner earned him, unknown as he was to all, +the name of the "mad parson""; White's, to which Colley +Cibber was the only English actor ever admitted; and +the "Cocoa Tree," nicknamed the "Wits' Coffee-house," +which, in Gibbon's time, afforded "every evening a sight +truly English. Twenty or thirty, perhaps, of the finest +men in the kingdom, in point of fashion and fortune, +supping at little tables covered with a napkin, in the +middle of a coffee-room, upon a bit of cold meat or +a sandwich and drinking a glass of punch."</p> + +<p>Lord Byron was the most romantic literary figure +connected with St. James's Street. His first home in +London, after his youthful days, was at No. 8, where +he went to live after the publication of his <i>English +Bards and Scotch Reviewers</i>. From this house the proud +and gloomy young man set forth to take his seat in the +House of Lords as a peer of the realm. Moore wrote:</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>"In a state more alone and unfriended, perhaps, than any youth of +his high station had ever before been reduced to on such an occasion—not +having a single individual of his own class, either to take him by the +hand as friend, or acknowledge him as an acquaintance."<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_181" id="Page_181">{181}</a></span></p></div> + +<p>But this state of affairs was not to endure. On February +29th, 1812, <i>Childe Harold</i> appeared.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>"The effect was electric; his fame had not to wait for any of the +ordinary gradations, but seemed to spring up like the palace of a fairy +tale—in a night.... From morning till night flattering testimonies +of his success reached him; the highest in the land besieged his door, and +he who had been so friendless found himself the idol of London society."</p></div> + +<p>Perhaps we cannot do better than end these literary +associations of club-land with a few words about a man +who in his time was one of its most brilliant figures—Theodore +Hook. When he was released from the King's +Bench prison, with his debt to the Crown still hanging +over him,</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>"he took a large and handsome house in Cleveland Row. Here he +gave dinners on an extensive scale, and became a member of all the best +clubs, particularly frequenting those where high play was the rule. His +visiting book included all that was loftiest and gayest and in every sense +most distinguished in London society. The editor of <i>John Bull</i>, the +fashionable novelist, the wittiest and most vivid talker of the time, his +presence was not only everywhere welcome but everywhere coveted and +clamoured for. But the whirl of extravagant dissipation emptied his +pocket, fevered his brain, and shortened the precious hours in which alone +his subsistence could be gained."</p></div> + +<p>In the height of his social triumphs there always hung +inexorably over him the Damocles sword of debt. When +at last he gave way under the strain, and went into comparative +retirement at Fulham, the number of dinners at +the Athenæum Club, where he had always had a particular +table kept for him near the door (nicknamed Temperance +Corner), fell off by upwards of three hundred per annum.</p> + +<hr class="tb" /> + +<p>These are a few out of the many literary memories +that we may encounter in an afternoon's stroll from the +Borough to St. James's, along one of the great city's +busiest highways; others, indeed, there are, meeting us +at every corner, but space forbids our dwelling upon +them, and regretfully we must pass them by.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_182" id="Page_182">{182}</a></span></p> +</div> + + +<hr class="chap" /> +<div class="chapter"> +<h2><a name="CROSBY_HALL" id="CROSBY_HALL">CROSBY HALL</a></h2> + +<p class='p3'><span class="smcap">By the Editor</span></p> + + + +<div> +<img class="drop-cap" src="images/drop-f.png" width="100" height="119" alt="" /> +</div> + +<p class="drop-cap">Few old mansions in the city of London could +rival the ancient dwelling-place of the brave +old knight, Sir John Crosby. Its architectural +beauties and historical associations endeared it +to all lovers of old London, and many a groan was heard +when its fate was doomed, and the decree went forth +that it was to be numbered among the departed glories +of the city. Unhappily, the hand of the destroyer could +not be stayed, and the earnest hope had to be abandoned +that many a generation of Londoners might be permitted +to see this relic of ancient civic life, and to realise from +this example the kind of dwelling-place wherein the city +merchants of olden days made their homes, and the +salient features of mediæval domestic architecture. +Shorn of its former magnificence, reduced to a fraction +of its original size, it retained evidences of its ancient +state and grandeur, and every stone and timber told of +its departed glories, and of the great events of which +Crosby Hall had been the scene. It has been associated +with many a name that shines forth in the annals of +English history, and imagination could again people the +desolate hall with a gay company of courtiers and +conspirators, of knights and dames, of city merchants +gorgeous in their liveries of "scarlet and green," or +"murrey and plunket," when pomp and pageantry, +tragedy and death, dark councils and mirth, and gaiety<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_183" id="Page_183">{183}</a></span> +and revellings followed each other through the portals +of the mansion in one long and varied procession. It +will be our pleasure to recall some of these scenes which +were enacted long ago, and to tell of the royal, noble, +and important personages who made this house their +home.</p> + +<p>Many people who live in our great overgrown modern +London—who dwell in the West End, and never wander +further east than Drury Lane Theatre or St. Pancras +Station—have never seen Crosby Hall, and know not +where it stood. If you go along Cheapside and to +the end of Cornhill, and then turn to the left, up +Bishopsgate, the old house stood on the right hand side; +or you may approach along Holborn and London Wall. +Alas! the pilgrimage is no longer possible. Bishopsgate +is historic ground. The name is derived from the +ancient gate of the city that was built, according +to Stow, by some Bishop of London, "though now +unknown when or by whom, for ease of passengers +toward the east, and by north, as into Norfolk, Suffolk, +Cambridgeshire, &c." Some authorities name Bishop +Erkenwald, son of King Offa, as the first builder of +Bishopsgate, and state that Bishop William, the +Norman, repaired the gate in the time of his namesake, +the Conqueror. Henry III. confirmed to the German +merchants of the Hanse certain liberties and privileges, +which were also confirmed by Edward I. in the tenth +year of his reign, when it was discovered that the +merchants were bound to repair the gate. Thereupon +Gerald Marbod, alderman of the Hanse, and other Hanse +merchants, granted 210 marks sterling to the Mayor and +citizens, and covenanted that they and their successors +should from time to time repair the gate. In 1479, in +the reign of Edward IV., it was entirely rebuilt by +these merchants, and was a fine structure adorned with +the effigies of two bishops, probably those named above, +and with two other figures supposed to represent King<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_184" id="Page_184">{184}</a></span> +Alfred and Alred, Earl of Mercia, to whom Alfred +entrusted the care of the gate. This repair was probably +necessary on account of the assault of the bastard +Falconbridge on this and other gates of the city, who +shot arrows and guns into London, fired the suburbs, +and burnt more than three-score houses. The gate has +been frequently repaired and rebuilt, its last appearance +being very modern, with a bishop's mitre on the +key-stone of the arch, and surmounted by the city arms +with guarding griffins. London "improvements" have +banished the gate, as they have so many other interesting +features of the city.</p> + +<p>The neighbourhood is interesting. Foremost among +the attractions of Bishopsgate Street is the beautiful +church of St. Helen, formerly the church of the Nunnery +of St. Helen, the Westminster of the city, where lie so +many illustrious merchants and knights and dames, and +amongst them the founder of Crosby Hall and other +owners of the mansion. The church is closely associated +with the hall. There in that fine house they lived. +There in the church hard by their bodies sleep, and their +gorgeous tombs and inscriptions tell the story of their +deeds. St. Helen's Church was one of the few which +escaped destruction at the Great Fire of London. +There was an early Saxon church here, but the earliest +parts of the existing building date back to the thirteenth +century. There are some blocked-up lancet windows of +the transept, a staircase doorway in the south-east corner, +another doorway which led from the nun's choir into the +convent, and a lancet window. There is a Renaissance +porch, the work of Inigo Jones, erected in 1663. The +main part of the structure is Decorated and Perpendicular, +the fifteenth century work being due to the builder of +Crosby Hall, who left 500 marks for its restoration and +improvement. The whole church possesses many +interesting features, of which want of space prevents a +full description.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_185" id="Page_185">{185}</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/image_032.jpg" width="426" height="600" alt="" /> +<div class="caption"><p class='center'><span class="smcap">Crosby Hall.</span></p></div> +</div> + +<p>Sir John Crosby determined to seek a site for his +house close to this church and the Nunnery of St. Helen, +and in 1466 obtained a lease from Alice Ashford, prioress +of the Nunnery, of some lands and tenements for a period +of ninety-nine years for the yearly rent of £11 6s. 8d. +Doubtless many good citizens of London in the present +day would like to make so good a bargain.</p> + +<p>Sir John Crosby, whose honoured name is preserved to +this day by the noble house which he built, was a worthy +and eminent citizen of London—one of the men who +laid the foundations of English trade and commercial +pre-eminence. He attained to great wealth, and his +actions and his bequests prove that he was a very worthy +man. Some idle story stated that, like the famous Dick +Whittington, he was of humble origin and unknown +parentage. Stow says: "I hold it a fable said of him, +to be named Crosby, from his being found by a cross." +A very pretty conceit! He was discovered, when an +infant, or having attained the age of boyhood, sleeping +on the steps of the market cross at Cheapside or Charing; +and the sympathetic folk who found him there named him +Cross-by! Our ancestors, like ourselves, loved a romance, +a nice cheerful story of a poor boy attaining to rank and +opulence, marrying his master's daughter and doing brave +deeds for his King and country. The notable career of +Sir Richard Whittington, thrice Lord Mayor of London, +was so embellished with romantic incident. He was no +poor man's son who begged his way to London, +accompanied by his favourite cat. Was he not the +youngest son of Sir William Whittington, the owner of +Pauntley Manor in Gloucestershire, and of Solers Hope, +Hereford? and was not his famous cat the name of his +ship which brought him wealth and affluence? Or shall +we accept the story of the sale of the cat to the King +of Barbary? So the legend of the foundling Crosby is +equally a fable, woven by the skilful imaginations of +our Elizabethan forefathers. Sir John came of goodly<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_186" id="Page_186">{186}</a></span> +parentage. There was a Johan de Crosbie, King's Clerk +in Chancery, in the time of Edward II.; a Sir John +Crosbie, Knight, and Alderman of London, in the reign +of Edward III.; and a John Crosby, Esquire, and servant +of King Henry IV., who gave to him the wardship of +Joan, daughter and sole heir of John Jordaine, +Fishmonger—<i>i.e.</i>, a member of the Worshipful Company +of Fishmongers of the City of London. This John +Crosby was, according to Stow, either the father or +grandfather of the builder of Crosby Hall.</p> + +<p>The family held the manor and advowson of the +church of Hanworth-on-the-Thames, not far from +Hampton Court. This manor was owned by the Sir John +Crosbie who lived in the time of King Edward III., and +after his death it was placed in the hands of a certain +Thomas Rigby for safe custody until John Crosbie, the +son and heir of the knight, should have grown up to +man's estate and attained his majority. This estate +seems afterwards to have passed into the hands of King +Henry VIII., who, on account of its pleasant situation, +delighted in it above any other of his houses.</p> + +<p>The father of the founder of the Hall was a friend +of Henry Lord Scrope, of Masham, the unfortunate +nobleman who was beheaded at Southampton for +complicity in a plot against the life of Henry V. He +bequeathed to his friend, John Crosbie, "a woollen gown +without furs and one hundred shillings."</p> + +<p><i>Bene natus</i>, <i>bene vestitus</i>, and doubtless <i>modice +doctus</i>, the qualifications of an All Souls' Fellow, John +Crosby began his career, embarking in trade and +commerce, and undertaking the duties of a worthy citizen +of London. The palmy days of commercial enterprise +inaugurated by King Henry VII. had not yet set in. +Before his time the trade between England and the +Continent was much more in the hands of foreigners than +of English merchants. English trading ships going +abroad to sell English goods and bring back cargoes of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_187" id="Page_187">{187}</a></span> +foreign commodities were few in number. The English +merchant usually stayed at home, and sold his wares +to the strangers who came each year to London and the +other trading ports, or bartered them for the produce of +other lands, with which their ships were freighted. The +German Hanse merchants, the Flemish traders, the +Lombards, and many others, enjoyed great privileges in +their commerce with England. But, in spite of this, men +like Crosby were able to amass wealth and make large +profits. Sir John's dealings extended far into other +countries, and he had important connections with the +Friscobaldi of Florence, who with the Medici were the +great bankers and engrossers of the commerce of Europe.</p> + +<p>Of the great merchants who laid the foundations of +our English commerce we often know little more than +their names, the offices they held, with a meagre catalogue +of their most philanthropic labours and their wills. It +is possible, however, to gather a little more information +concerning the owner of Crosby Place. The records at +Guildhall tell us that in 1466, the seventh year of +Edward IV., John Crosby, Grocer, was elected with three +others a Member of Parliament. He was also elected in +the same year one of the auditors of the City and Bridge +House. In 1468 we find him elected Alderman of Broad +Street Ward, and two years later Sheriff of London. +He took a prominent part in the old city life of London, +and was a prominent member of two of the old City +Companies, the Grocers and the Woolmen. Of the former +he twice served the office of warden, and preserved a +strong affection for his company, bequeathing to it by +his will considerable gifts. The honourable and +important post of Mayor of the Staple at Calais was +also conferred upon him.</p> + +<p>He seems to have been a brave and valiant man, as +well as a successful trader and good citizen. During his +time the safety of the City of London was endangered +owing to the attack of Thomas Nevil, the bastard Lord<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_188" id="Page_188">{188}</a></span> +Falconbridge, to which reference has already been made. +Stow tells the story graphically. This filibusterer came +with his rebel company and a great navy of ships near +to the Tower—</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>"Whereupon the mayor and aldermen fortified all along the Thames +side, from Baynard's Castle to the Tower, with armed men, guns and other +instruments of war, to resist the invasion of the mariners, whereby the +Thames side was safely preserved and kept by the aldermen and other +citizens that assembled thither in great numbers. Whereupon the rebels, +being denied passage through the city that way, set upon Aeldgate, +Bishopsgate, Criplegate, Aeldersgate, London Bridge, and along the river +of Thames, shooting arrows and guns into the city, fired the suburbs, and +burnt more than three score houses. And farther, on Sunday, the eleventh +of May, five thousand of them assaulting Aeldgate, won the bulwarks, and +entered the city; but the portclose being let down, such as had entered were +slain, and Robert Basset, portcullis alderman of Aeldgate ward, with the +recorder, commanded in the name of God to draw up the portclose; which +being done, they issued out, and with sharp shot and fierce fight, put their +enemies back so far as St. Bottolph's Church, by which time Earl Rivers, and +lieutenant of the Tower, was come with a fresh company, which joining +together discomfited the rebels, and put them to flight, whom the said Rober, +Basset with the other citizens chased to the Mile's End, and from thence, +some to Poplar, some to Stratford, slew many, and took many of them +prisoners. In which space the Bastard, having assayed other places on the +water side, and little prevailed, fled toward his ships."</p></div> + +<p>In this determined defence of the city against a +formidable attack, John Crosbie took a leading part, +bravely contending against the forces of the foe and +fighting fiercely. Twelve aldermen with the recorder +were knighted in the field by King Edward IV., and +amongst those so honoured were the Lord Mayor of +London, William Taylor, and John Crosby. Our hero +was no carpet knight, no poor-spirited tradesman and +man of peace. Like many other famous citizens of his +age, he could don his armour and fight for his King +and country, and proved himself a gallant leader of a +citizen army, the best sort of army in the world. He +was a devoted adherent of the House of York, and a +favourite of Edward IV., who sent him on an important +embassage to the Duke of Burgundy, who had married<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_189" id="Page_189">{189}</a></span> +Elizabeth of York, the King's sister. The secret object of +the mission was an alliance against Francis I. of France. +The embassy was also sent to the Duke of Brittany with +the same object, and also to secure the persons of the +Earls of Richmond and Pembroke, who had taken refuge +in France, and there felt themselves secure. The future +Richard III. was nearly persuaded to return to +England; his foot was almost on the ship's deck, when, +fortunately for him, his voyage was prevented. If he +had continued his journey he would never have worn +a crown, as he would have lacked a head whereon to +place it.</p> + +<p>Sir John Crosby not long before his death began to +build the beautiful house in Bishopsgate "in the place +of certain tenements, with their appurtenances let to him +by Alice Ashfield, Prioress of St. Helen's.... +This house he built of stone and timber, very large and +beautiful, and the highest at that time in London," as +Stow records. The whole structure was known as Crosby +Place, and rivalled the dimensions of a palace. All +that remained of this magnificent building was the Hall, +together with the Council Room and an ante-room, +forming two sides of a quadrangle. It was built of stone, +and measured 54 feet by 27 feet, and was 40 feet in height. +The Hall was lighted by a series of eight Perpendicular +windows on one side and six on the other, and by a +beautifully-constructed octagonal bay window. It had a +fine roof of exquisite workmanship richly ornamented, and +a wide chimney. Much of the original stone pavement +had vanished. The Council Chamber was nearly as large +as the hall, being only 14 feet less in length.</p> + +<p>Crosby Hall has been the scene of many notable +historic scenes. In the play of "Edward IV." by +Heywood, Sir John Crosby figures as Lord Mayor of +London, a position which he never occupied, and the +King dines with him and the Alderman after the defeat +of the rebel Falconbridge at Crosby Hall. He had<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_190" id="Page_190">{190}</a></span> +just received the honour of knighthood, and thus +muses:—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Ay, marry, Crosby! this befits thee well.<br /></span> +<span class="i0">But some will marvel that, with scarlet gown,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">I wear a gilded rapier by my side."<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>It is quite possible that the King thus dined with his +favourite, but there is no historical account that confirms +the poet's play. The builder did not long enjoy his +beautiful house, and died in 1475, leaving a second wife +and a daughter by his first wife, whom he seemed to +have loved with a more ardent affection than his second +spouse. Soon after his death the man whom he tried +to trap in France, Richard, Duke of Gloucester, came to +reside here, and made it the scene of endless plots and +conspiracies against his luckless nephews and his many +enemies. Crosby Place is frequently alluded to by +Shakespeare in his play, "Richard the Third." +Gloucester tells Catesby to report to him at Crosby Place +the treacherous murder of the Princes in the Tower, and +he bids the Lady Anne to "presently repair to Crosby +Place."</p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/image_033.jpg" width="600" height="423" alt="" /> +<div class="caption"><p class='center'><span class="smcap">St. Paul's Cathedral, with Lord Mayor's Show on the water.</span></p> + +<p class='center'><i>Engraved by Pugh, 1804.</i></p></div> +</div> + +<p>The house in 1502 passed into the possession of Sir +Bartholomew Reed, Lord Mayor, and then to John Best, +Alderman, from whom it was purchased by Sir Thomas +More, the famous Lord Chancellor. Doubtless it was in +the chambers of Crosby Place that he wrote his <i>Utopia</i>. +He sold the lease to his beloved friend, Antonio +Bonvisi, an Italian gentleman, who had long lived in +England; and when the Dissolution of Monasteries took +place, and the possessions of the Priory of St. Helen's +were seized by the Crown, the King allowed the Italian +to retain possession of Crosby Place. We need not +record all its worthy owners. It was frequently used as +a fitting place for the lodging of foreign ambassadors, +and here Sir John Spencer, having restored the house, +kept his mayoralty in 1594. Enormously wealthy, he +lived in great splendour and entertained lavishly. He<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_191" id="Page_191">{191}</a></span> +was a great favourite of Queen Elizabeth. It was not +from Crosby Hall, but from his house at Canonbury, that +his only daughter effected her escape in a baker's basket +in order to wed the handsome Lord Compton. Terrible +was the father's wrath, and everyone knows the charming +story of the Queen's tactful intervention, how she induced +Sir John to stand as sponsor with her for an unknown +boy, whom Sir John declared should be the heir of +all his wealth, and how this boy was, of course, Lady +Compton's child, and how a full reconciliation was +effected. It is a very pretty story. It is not so pleasant +to read of the disastrous effect of the possession of so +much wealth had on the brain of Lord Compton, when +he came into possession of his lady's riches. She was +a little vixenish, spoilt and exacting, if she really +intended seriously the literal meaning of that well-known +letter which she wrote setting forth her needs and +requirements. It is too long to quote. Lord Compton +was created Earl of Northampton, and that precious child +of his when he grew to man's estate was killed fighting +for the Royalist cause in the Civil War.</p> + +<p>During that disastrous time Crosby became a prison +for Royalists, and later on a great part of the house +was destroyed by fire, and its ancient glories +departed. For a hundred years the Hall was used as +a Nonconformist chapel. In 1778 part of the premises +was converted into a place of business by Messrs. Holmes +and Hall, the rest being used as private dwellings. It +provided a model for the banqueting-hall of Arundel +Castle, and some of the carved stones of the Council +Chamber were removed to Henley-upon-Thames to adorn +a dairy. Alien buildings soon covered the site of the +destroyed portion of the old house. In 1831 it was left +forlorn and untenanted, and in a state of considerable +decay. Then arose a considerable excitement, of which +the struggle of the present year reminds us. Crosby +Hall was doomed. But zealous lovers of the antiquities<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_192" id="Page_192">{192}</a></span> +of the city determined to try to save it. An appeal +was made, and a restoration fund started, though, like +many other restoration funds, it proved itself inadequate. +A benevolent lady, Miss Hackett, gallantly came to the +rescue, and practically saved Crosby Hall. Her idea +was to convert it into a lecture hall for the Gresham +Professors; but this plan came to nothing, though the +building was repaired, the south wall of the Throne +and Council Chambers being rebuilt. Then a company +was formed to take over Miss Hackett's interest, and the +Crosby Hall Literary and Scientific Institution was +formed, but that scheme came to nothing. Then it was +bought by Messrs. F. Gordon & Co., who restored the +building, attached to it an annex of half-timbered +construction, and converted the premises into a +restaurant. Thus it remained for several years. +Recently the site was acquired by a banking company, +and its demolition was threatened. Immediate action +was taken by Sir Vesey Strong, the Lord Mayor, and +others, to save the building. The fight was fought +strenuously and bravely. Apathy was found in some +quarters where it would least have been expected, and +all efforts were fruitless. It is deplorable to have to +record that the last of the mansions of the old city +magnates has been allowed to disappear, and that Crosby +Hall is now only a memory.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_193" id="Page_193">{193}</a></span></p> + + + +<hr class="chap" /> +<h2><a name="THE_PAGEANT_OF_LONDON" id="THE_PAGEANT_OF_LONDON">THE PAGEANT OF LONDON</a></h2> + +<p class='p3'><span class="smcap">By the Editor</span></p> + + + +<div> +<img class="drop-cap" src="images/drop-w.png" width="150" height="121" alt="" /> +</div> + +<p class="drop-cap">We have stated in the Preface that London +needs no pageant or special spectacular +display in order to set forth its wonderful +attractions. London is in itself a pageant, +far more interesting than any theatrical representation; +and in this final chapter we will enumerate some of +those other features of Old London life which have +not found description in the preceding pictures. We +will "stand by and let the pageant pass," or, rather, +pass along the streets and make our own pageant.</p> + +<p>The great city is always changing its appearance, +and travellers who have not seen it for several years +scarcely know where they are when visiting some of +the transformed localities. But however great the +change, the city still exercises its powerful fascination +on all who have once felt its strangely magnetic force, +its singular attractiveness. Though the London County +Council have effected amazing "improvements," +constructing a street which nobody wants and nobody +uses, and spending millions in widening Piccadilly; +though private enterprise pulls down ancient dwellings +and rears huge hotels and business premises in their +places—it is still possible to conjure up the memories +of the past, and to picture to ourselves the multitudinous +scenes of historic interest which Old London has +witnessed. Learned writers have already in these +volumes enabled us to transport ourselves at will to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_194" id="Page_194">{194}</a></span> +the London of bygone times—to the mediæval city, +with its monasteries, its churches, its palaces, its +tragedies; to Elizabethan London, bright and gay, with +young life pulsing through its veins; to the London of +Pepys, with its merry-makings, its coarseness, and its +vice. In this concluding chapter we will recall some +other memories, and try to fill the background to the +picture.</p> + +<p>Westminster, the rival city, the city of the court, +with its abbey and its hall, we have not attempted to +include in our survey. She must be left in solitary state +until, perhaps, a new volume of this series may presume +to describe her graces and perfections. The ever-growing +suburbs of the great city, the West End, the +fashionable quarter, Southern London across the river, +with Lambeth and its memories of archbishops—all this, +and much else that deserves an honoured place in the +chronicles of the metropolis, we must perforce omit in +our survey. Some of the stories are too modern to +please the taste of those who revel in the past; and if +the curious reader detects omissions, he may console +himself by referring to some of the countless other books +and guides which the attractions of London are ever +forcing industrious scribes to produce.</p> + + +<h3>Christ's Hospital</h3> + +<p>Many regrets were expressed when it was found +necessary to remove this ancient school from London, +and to destroy the old buildings. Of course, "everything +is for the best in this best of possible worlds." +Boys, like plants, thrive better in the open country, +and London fogs are apt to becloud the brain as well +as injure health. But the antiquary may be allowed +to utter his plaint over the demolition of the old features +of London life. The memorials of this ancient school +cannot be omitted from our collection.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_195" id="Page_195">{195}</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/image_035.jpg" width="600" height="462" alt="" /> +<div class="caption"><p class='center'><span class="smcap">Christ's Hospital.</span></p></div> +</div> + +<p>We are carried back in thought to the Friars, clad +in grey habits, girt with cord, and sandal shod, who +settled in the thirteenth century on the north side of +what we now call Newgate Street, and, by the generosity +of pious citizens, founded their monastery. Thus John +Ewin gave them the land in the ward of Farringdon +Without, and in the parish of St. Nicholas Shambles; +William Joyner built the choir; William Wallis the +nave; William Porter the chapter house; Gregory +Bokesby the dormitories, furnishing it with beds; +Bartholomew de Castello the refectory, where he feasted +the friars on St. Bartholomew's Day. Queen Margaret, +the second wife of Edward I., was a great benefactor +of the order, and advanced two thousand marks towards +the cost of a large church, which was completed in +1327, and was a noble structure, 300 feet in length, +89 feet in breadth, and 74 feet high. "Dick" +Whittington built for the friars a splendid library, which +was finished in 1424. The church was the favoured +resting-place of the illustrious dead. Four queens, four +duchesses, four countesses, one duke, two earls, eight +barons, and some thirty-five knights reposed therein. +In the choir there were nine tombs of alabaster and +marble, surrounded by iron railings, and monuments +of marble and brass abounded. The dissolution of +monasteries came with greedy Henry, and the place was +rifled. The crown seized the goodly store of treasure; +the church became a receptacle for the prizes taken +from the French; and Sir Martin Bowes, Mayor of +London, for the sum of £50, obtained all the beautiful +tombs and brasses, marble and alabaster, which were +carted away from the desecrated shrine.</p> + +<p>But Henry's conscience smote him. The death of +Charles Brandon, Duke of Suffolk, the King's boon +companion, moved him "to bethink himself of his end, +and to do some good work thereunto," as Fuller states. +The church was reopened for worship, and Bishop<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_196" id="Page_196">{196}</a></span> +Ridley, preaching at Paul's Cross, announced the +King's gift of the conventual grounds and buildings, +with the hospital of St. Bartholomew, for the relief +of the poor. Letters patent were issued in 1545, making +over to the Mayor and Commonalty of London for ever +"the Grey Friars' Church, with all the edifices and +ground, the fratry, library, dortor, chapter-house, great +cloister, and the lesser tenements and vacant grounds, +lead, stone, iron, etc.; the hospital of +St. Bartholomew, West Smithfield, +the church of the same, the lead, bells, +and ornaments of the same hospital, +with all messuages, tenements, and +appurtenances."</p> + +<p>It was a poor return to the Church +for all of that the King had robbed +her. Moreover, he did not altogether +abandon a little profit. He made the +monastic church, now called the Christ +Church, do duty for the parishes +of St. Nicholas in the Shambles, +St. Ewins, and part of St. Sepulchre, +uniting these into one parish, and +pulling down the churches of the first +two parishes. It would be curious +to discover what became of the +endowments of these parishes, and of +the fabrics.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/image_036.jpg" width="176" height="400" alt="" /> +<div class="caption"><p class='center'>Carrying the Crug-basket</p></div> +</div> + +<p>For some years nothing was done to further the +cause of this charity, but in 1552, when Bishop Ridley, +who was a mightily convincing preacher, was discoursing +upon charity before Edward VI., the boy-King was so +moved that he conversed with the bishop, and, together +with the Lord Mayor and aldermen of the city, +determined to found three hospitals—Christ's Hospital +for the education of poor children, St. Thomas's for the +relief of the sick and diseased, and Bridewell for the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_197" id="Page_197">{197}</a></span> +correction and amendment of the idle and the vagabond. +Before his last illness, Edward had just strength enough +to sign the charter for the founding of these institutions, +ejaculating: "Lord, I yield Thee most hearty thanks +that Thou hast given me life thus long to finish this +work to the glory of Thy name." The good citizens of +London, with their accustomed charity, immediately set +to work, before the granting of the charter, to subscribe +money for the repair of the old monastic buildings, and +in 1552 three hundred and forty children were admitted, +not so much for educational purposes as for their rescue +from the streets, and the provision of shelter, food, and +clothing. It must have been a welcome sight to the +citizens to see them clothed in livery of russet cotton, +the boys with red caps, the girls with kerchiefs on their +heads, lining the procession when the Lord Mayor and +aldermen rode to St. Paul's on Christmas Day. On the +following Easter the boys and "mayden children" were +in "plonket," or blue—hence the hospital derived the +name of the Blue Coat School. The dress of the boys, +concerning the origin of which many fanciful interpretations +have been made, is the costume of the period +generally worn by apprentices and serving men, +consisting of a long blue coat, with leathern girdle, a +sleeveless yellow waistcoat and yellow stockings, clerical +bands and a small black cap completing the dress. +"Four thousand marks by the year" from the royal +exchequer were granted by the King for the maintenance +of the school, which sum was largely supplemented by +the citizens and other pious benefactors, such as Lady +Ramsay, who founded "a free writing schoole for poor +men's children" at the hospital. Camden says that at +the beginning of the seventeenth century six hundred +children were maintained and educated, and one thousand +two hundred and forty pensioners relieved by the hospital +in alms, and, later on, as many as one thousand one +hundred and twenty children were cared for by this<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_198" id="Page_198">{198}</a></span> +institution. The governors, moreover, started "place +houses" in other districts—at Hertford, Ware, Reading, +and Bloxburn—where boys were educated.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/image_037.jpg" width="300" height="227" alt="" /> +<div class="caption"><p class='center'>Wooden Platters and Beer Jack.</p></div> +</div> + +<p>The buildings were greatly injured by the fire of +1666, when the old monastic church was entirely +destroyed. The great hall was soon rebuilt by Sir John +Frederick, and then the famous Royal Mathematical +School was founded through the exertions of Sir Robert +Clayton, Sir Jonas Moore, Sir Christopher Wren, Sir +Charles Scarbrough, and Samuel Pepys. King Charles II. +granted a charter and £1,000 a year for seven years, +and the forty boys who composed the school were called +"King's boys." They were instructed in navigation, and +wore a badge on the left shoulder. A subordinate +mathematical school, consisting of twelve scholars, +denoted "the Twelves," who wore a badge on the right +shoulder, was subsequently formed. Pepys took a keen +interest in the school, and a series of a large number +of his letters is in existence which show the efforts +he made to maintain the mathematical school. He tells +also of a little romance connected with the hospital, +which is worth recording. There was at that time a +grammar school for boys and a separate school for +girls. Two wealthy citizens left their estates, one to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_199" id="Page_199">{199}</a></span> +a bluecoat boy, and the other to a bluecoat girl. Some +of the governors thought that it would be well if these +two fortunate recipients were married. So a public +wedding was arranged at the Guildhall chapel, where +the ceremony was performed by the Dean of St. Paul's, +the bride, supported by two bluecoat boys, being given +away by the Lord Mayor, and the bridegroom, attired +in blue satin, being led to the altar by two bluecoat +girls.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/image_038.jpg" width="300" height="199" alt="" /> +<div class="caption"><p class='center'>Piggin: Wooden Spoon. +Wooden Soup-ladle.</p></div> +</div> + +<p>A noble gift of Sir Robert Clayton enabled the +governors to rebuild the east cloister and south front. +The writing school was erected by Sir Christopher Wren +in 1694, at the expense of Sir John Moore. The ward +over the east side cloister was rebuilt in 1705 by Sir +Francis Child, the banker, and in 1795 the grammar +school was erected. Some of the buildings of the old +monastery survived until the beginning of the last +century, but they were somewhat ruinous and unsafe, +hence, in 1803, a great building fund was formed. The +hall erected after the great fire was pulled down, and +a vast building in the Tudor style begun in 1825, which +was so familiar to all who passed along the eastern +end of Holborn. John Shaw was the architect. You +will remember the open arcade, the buttresses and +octagonal towers, and the embattled and pinnacled<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_200" id="Page_200">{200}</a></span> +walls, and, above all, you will remember the crowd of +happy boys, clad in their picturesque garb, kicking about +the merry football. The dining hall was one of the +finest rooms in London, being 187 feet long, 51 feet wide, +and 47 feet high; lighted by nine large windows, those +on the south side being filled with stained glass. There +hung the huge charter picture, representing Edward VI. +presenting the charter to the Lord Mayor, the Chancellor, +officers of State, and children of the school being in +attendance. This picture has been attributed to Holbein, +but since the event occurred in 1553, and that artist +could have produced no work later than 1534, the +tradition is erroneous. Two portraits of Edward VI. +are also in the possession of the hospital attributed to +Holbein, but they have been proved to be the work of +a later artist. Verrio's portrait of Charles II., and his +picture of James II. receiving the mathematical boys, +are very large canvases.</p> + +<p>It is unnecessary to describe all the buildings which +so recently existed, but have now been swept away. +It is more interesting to note some of the curious +customs which exist or formerly existed in the school, +and some of the noted of the old "Blues." Christ's +Hospital was a home of old customs, some of them, +perhaps, little relished by the scholars. Each boy had +a wooden "piggin" for drinking small beer served out +of a leathern or wooden jack; a platter, spoon, and +soup-ladle of the same material. There was a quaint +custom of supping in public on Sundays during Lent, +when visitors were admitted, and the Lord Mayor or +president of the governors sat in state. Quaint wooden +candlesticks adorned the tables, and, after the supper, +were carried away in procession, together with the +tablecloths, crug-baskets, or baskets used for carrying +bread, bowls, jacks, and piggins. Before the supper a +hymn was sung, and a "Grecian," or head boy, read +the prayers from the pulpit, silence being enforced by<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_201" id="Page_201">{201}</a></span> +three blows of a wooden hammer. The supper then +began, consisting of bread and cheese, and the visitors +used to walk about between the tables. Then followed +the solemn procession of the boys carrying their goods, +and bowing repeatedly to the governors and their guests. +It was a pleasing custom, honoured by the presence of +many distinguished guests, and Queen Victoria and Prince +Albert on one occasion witnessed the spectacle.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/image_039.jpg" width="600" height="441" alt="" /> +<div class="caption"><p class='center'><span class="smcap">Christ's Hospital: the Garden.</span></p></div> +</div> + +<p>Then there were the annual orations on St. Matthew's +Day, commemorating the foundation of the school, and +attended by the civic magnates. A state service was +held in Christ Church, Newgate Street, and, afterwards, +the Grecians delivered speeches, and a collection was +made for the support of these headboys when they went +to the University. The beadles delivered up their staves +to the Court, and if no fault was found with these officers +their badges were returned to them. The Company was +regaled with "sweet cakes and burnt wine."</p> + +<p>At Easter there were solemn processions—first, on +Easter Monday, to the Mansion House, when the Lord +Mayor was escorted by the boys to Christ Church to +hear the Spital or hospital sermon. On Easter Tuesday +again the scholars repaired to the Mansion House, and +were regaled with a glass of wine, in lieu of which +lemonade, in more recent times, could be obtained, two +buns, and a shilling fresh from the Mint, the senior +scholars receiving an additional sum, and the Grecians +obtained a guinea. Again the Spital sermon was +preached. The boys were entitled, by ancient custom, +to sundry privileges—to address the sovereign on his +visiting the city, and the "King's boys" were entitled +to be presented at the first drawing-room of the season, +to present their charts for inspection, and to receive +sundry gifts. By ancient privilege they were entitled to +inspect all the curiosities in the Tower of London free +of any charge, and these at one time included a miniature +zoological garden.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_202" id="Page_202">{202}</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/image_040.jpg" width="326" height="400" alt="" /> +<div class="caption"><p class='center'><span class="smcap">Old Staircase.</span></p></div> +</div> + +<p>Many are the notable men renowned in literature and +art who have sprung from this famous school. Charles +Lamb, S. T. Coleridge, Leigh Hunt, and countless other +men might be mentioned who have done honour to their +school. Some of their recollections of old manners +reveal some strange educational methods—the severe +thrashings, the handcuffing of runaways, the confining +in dungeons, wretched holes, where the boys could just +find room to lie down on straw, and were kept in solitary +confinement and fed worse than prisoners in modern +gaols. Bread and beer breakfasts were hardly the best +diet for boys, and the meat does not always appear +to have been satisfactory. However, all these bygone +abuses have long ago disappeared. For some years the +future of the hospital was shrouded in uncertainty.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_203" id="Page_203">{203}</a></span> +At length it was resolved to quit London, and now +the old buildings have been pulled down, and the school +has taken a new lease of life and settled at Horsham, +where all will wish that it may have a long and +prosperous career. We may well conclude this brief +notice of the old school in the words of the School +Commissioners of 1867, who stated: "Christ's Hospital +is a thing without parallel in the country and <i>sui generis</i>. +It is a grand relic of the mediæval spirit—a monument +of the profuse munificence of that spirit, and of that +constant stream of individual beneficence, which is so +often found to flow around institutions of that character. +It has kept up its main features, its traditions, its +antique ceremonies, almost unchanged, for a period of +upwards of three centuries. It has a long and goodly +list of worthies." We know not how many of these +antique ceremonies have survived its removal, but we +venture to hope that they may still exist, and that the +authorities have not failed to maintain the traditions +that Time has consecrated.</p> + + +<h3>The City Churches</h3> + +<p>In the pageant of London no objects are more +numerous and conspicuous than the churches which greet +us at every step. In spite of the large number which +have disappeared, there are very many left. There they +stand in the centre of important thoroughfares, in obscure +courts and alleys—here surrounded by high towering +warehouses; there maintaining proud positions, defying +the attacks of worldly business and affairs. A whole +volume would be required to do justice to the city +churches, and we can only glance at some of the most +striking examples.</p> + +<p>The Great Fire played havoc with the ancient +structures, and involved in its relentless course many +a beautiful and historic church. But some few of them<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_204" id="Page_204">{204}</a></span> +are left to us. We have already seen St. Bartholomew's, +Smithfield, and glanced at the church of St. Helen, +Bishopsgate, and old St Paul's. Wren's St. Paul's +Cathedral has so often been described that it is not +necessary to tell again the story of its building.<a name="FNanchor_11_11" id="FNanchor_11_11"></a><a href="#Footnote_11_11" class="fnanchor">[11]</a> +"Destroyed by the Great Fire, rebuilt by Wren," is the +story of most of the city churches; but there were some +few which escaped. At the east end of Great Tower +Street stands All Hallows Barking, so called from +having belonged to the abbey of Barking, Essex. This +narrowly escaped the fire, which burned the dial, and +porch, and vicarage house. Its style is mainly +Perpendicular, with a Decorated east window, and +has some good brasses. St. Andrew's Undershaft, +Leadenhall Street, opposite to which the May-pole was +annually raised until "Evil May-day" put an end to +the merry-makings, was rebuilt in 1520-32, and contains +some mural paintings, much stained glass, and many +brasses and monuments, including that of John Stow, +the famous London antiquary. St. Catherine Cree, in +the same street, was rebuilt in 1629, and consecrated by +Laud. St. Dunstan's-in-the-East was nearly destroyed, +and restored by Wren, the present nave being rebuilt +in 1817. St. Dunstan's, Stepney, preserves its fifteenth +century fabric, and St. Ethelburga's, Bishopsgate, +retains some of its Early English masonry, and St. +Ethelreda's, Ely Place, is the only surviving portion +of the ancient palace of the Bishops of Ely. St. Giles', +Cripplegate, stands near the site of a Saxon church built +in 1090 by Alfun, the first hospitaller of the Priory of +St. Bartholomew. Suffering from a grievous fire in +1545, it was partially rebuilt, and in 1682 the tower +was raised fifteen feet. Many illustrious men were +buried here, including John Fox, John Speed, the +historian, John Milton and his father, several actors<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_205" id="Page_205">{205}</a></span> +of the Fortune Theatre, and Sir Martin Frobisher. In +1861 the church was restored in memory of Milton, and +a monument raised to him. This church saw the +nuptials of Oliver Cromwell and Elizabeth Bowchier +in 1620. All Hallows Staining, Mark Lane, escaped the +fire, and its tower and west end are ancient. St. James', +Aldgate, was built in 1622, and escaped the fire, which +might have spared more important edifices; and St. +Olave's, Hart Street, a building which shows Norman, +Early English, Decorated, and Perpendicular work, was +happily preserved. This is sometimes called Pepys's +church, since he often mentions it in his diary, and lies +buried here. There are other interesting monuments, and +in the churchyard lie some of the victims of the Great +Plague. St. Sepulchre's, near Newgate, was damaged +by the fire, and refitted by Wren, but the main building +is fifteenth century work. Several churches escaped the +Great Fire, but were subsequently pulled down and +rebuilt. Amongst these are St. Alphege, London Wall; +St. Botolph-without, Aldersgate; St. Botolph's, St. +Martin's Outwich. St. Mary Woolnoth was also +damaged by the fire, and repaired by Wren. It stands +on the site of an early church, which was rebuilt in +the fifteenth century; but the greater part of the present +church was built by Hawksmoor in 1716.</p> + +<p>A strange, weird, desolate city met the eyes of the +people of London when the Great Fire had died away. +No words can describe that scene of appalling ruin and +desolation. But, with the energy for which Englishmen +are remarkable, they at once set to work to restore their +loss, and a master-mind was discovered who could +grapple with the difficulty and bring order out of chaos. +This wonderful genius was Sir Christopher Wren. He +devised a grand scheme for the rebuilding of the city. +Evelyn planned another. But property owners were +tenacious of their rights, and clung to their own parcels +of ground; so these great schemes came to nothing.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_206" id="Page_206">{206}</a></span> +However, to Wren fell the task of rebuilding the fallen +churches, and no less than fifty-two were entrusted to +his care. He had no one to guide him; no school of +artists or craftsmen to help him in the detail of his +buildings; no great principles of architecture to direct +him. Gothic architecture was dead, if we except the +afterglow that shone in Oxford. He might have +followed his great predecessor, Inigo Jones, and produced +works after an Italian model. But he was no copyist. +Taking the classic orders as his basis, he devised a style +of his own, suitable for the requirements of the time +and climate, and for the form of worship and religious +usages of the Anglican Church. "It is enough for +Romanists to hear the murmur of the mass, and see the +elevation of the Host; but our churches are to be fitted +for auditories," he once said.</p> + +<p>Of the churches built by Wren, eighteen beautiful +buildings have already been destroyed. St. Christopher-le-Stocks +is swallowed up by the Bank of England; +St. Michael, Crooked Lane, disappeared in 1841, when +approaches were made to New London Bridge; St. +Bartholomew-by-the-Exchange made way for the Sun +Fire Office; and St. Benet Fink was pulled down because +of its nearness to the Royal Exchange. Since the +passing of the Union of City Benefices Act in 1860, +fourteen churches designed by Wren have succumbed, +and attacks on others have been with difficulty warded +off.<a name="FNanchor_12_12" id="FNanchor_12_12"></a><a href="#Footnote_12_12" class="fnanchor">[12]</a></p> + +<p>The characteristics of Wren's genius were his +versatility, imagination, and originality. We will notice +some of the results of these qualities of mind. The +tower hardly ever enters into the architectural treatment +of the interior. It is used as an entrance lobby or +vestry. His simplest plan was a plain oblong, without +columns or recesses, such as St. Mildred's, Bread Street,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_207" id="Page_207">{207}</a></span> +or St. Nicholas', Cole Abbey. St. Margaret, Lothbury, +St. Vedast, St. Clement, Eastcheap, have this simple form, +with the addition of an aisle or a recess. His next +plan consists of the central nave and two aisles, with +or without clerestory windows; of this St. Andrew +Wardrobe and St. Magnus the Martyr furnish good +examples. The third plan is the domed church, such +as St. Swithun and St. Mary Abchurch. The merits +and architectural beauties of Wren's churches have been +recently described in an able lecture delivered by +Mr. Arthur Keen before the Architectural Association, +a lecture which we should like to see expanded to the +size of a book, and enriched with copious drawings. +It would be of immense service in directing the minds +of the citizens of London to the architectural treasures +of which they are the heirs.</p> + +<p>The churches are remarkable for their beautifully +carved woodwork, often executed or designed by +Grinling Gibbons or his pupils. Pews, pulpits, with +elaborate sounding boards, organ cases, altar pieces, +were all elaborately carved, and a gallery usually was +placed at the west end. Paintings by Sir James +Thornhill and other artists adorn his churches, and +the art of Strong the master mason, Jennings the +carpenter, and Tijou the metal worker, all combined +to beautify his structures.</p> + +<p>Within the limits of our space it is only possible +to glance at the interiors of a few of these churches, +and note some of the treasures therein contained. +St. Andrew's, Holborn, has its original fifteenth century +tower, recarved in 1704. It is known as the "Poet's +Church," on account of the singers connected with it, +including a contemporary of Shakespeare, John Webster, +Robert Savage, Chatterton, and Henry Neele, and can +boast of such illustrious rectors as Bishops Hacket and +Stillingfleet, and Dr. Sacheverel. The spire of Christ +Church, Spitalfields, built by Hawksmoor, is the loftiest<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_208" id="Page_208">{208}</a></span> +in London, and has a fine peal of bells. In the church +there is an early work of Flaxman—the monument of +Sir Robert Ladbrooke, Lord Mayor. The name of +St. Clement Danes reminds us of the connection of the +sea-rovers with London. Strype says that the church +was so named "because Harold, a Danish King, and +other Danes, were buried there, and in that churchyard." +He tells how this Harold, an illegitimate son of Canute, +reigned three years, and was buried at Westminster; +but, afterwards, Hardicanute, the lawful son of Canute, +in revenge for the injury done to his mother and brother, +ordered the body to be dug up and thrown into the +Thames, where it was found by a fisherman and buried +in this churchyard. There seems to be no doubt that there +was a colony of peaceful Danes in this neighbourhood, +as testified by the Danish word "Wych" given to a street +hard by, and preserved in the modern Aldwych. It was +the oldest suburb of London, the village of Ældwic, +and called Aldewych. Oldwych close was in existence +in the time of the Stuarts. These people were allowed +to reside between the Isle of Thorney, or Westminster, +and Ludgate, and, having become Christians, they built +a church for themselves, which was called <i>Ecclesia +Clementis Danorum</i>.</p> + +<p>There is a wild story of the massacre of the Danes +in this church in the days of Ethelred, as recorded in +Strype's <i>Continuation of Stow</i>, and in the <i>Jomsvikinga +Saga</i>. As Mr. Loftie has not found space in <i>Saxon +London</i> to mention this colony of Danes and their +doings, I venture to quote a passage from Mr. Lethaby's +<i>Pre-Conquest London</i>, which contains some interesting +allusions to these people:</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>"We are told that Sweyn made warfare in the land of King Ethelred, +and drove him out of the land; he put <i>Thingumannalid</i> in two places. +The one in Lundunaborg (London) was ruled by Eilif Thorgilsson, who +had sixty ships in the Temps (Thames); the other was north in Sleswik. +The Thingamen made a law that no one should stay away a whole night.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_209" id="Page_209">{209}</a></span> +They gathered at the Bura Church every night when a large bell was +rung, but without weapons. He who had command in the town (London) +was Ædric Streona. Ulfkel Snilling ruled over the northern part of +England (East Anglia). The power of the Thingamen was great. There +was a fair there (in London) twice every twelve month, one about midsummer +and the other about midwinter. The English thought it would +be the easiest to slay the Thingamen while Cnut was young (he was ten +winters old) and Sweyn dead. About Yule, waggons went into the +town to the market, and they were all tented over by the treacherous +advice of Ulfkel Snelling and Ethelred's sons. Thord, a man of the +Thingumannalid, went out of the town to the house of his mistress, who +asked him to stay, because the death was planned of all the Thingamen +by Englishmen concealed in the waggons, when the Danes would go +unarmed to the church. Thord went into the town and told it to Eilif. +They heard the bell ringing, and when they came to the churchyard +there was a great crowd who attacked them. Eilif escaped with three +ships and went to Denmark. Some time after, Edmund was made King. +After three winters, Cnut, Thorkel and Eric went with eight hundred +ships to England. Thorkel had thirty ships, and slew Ulfkel Snilling, +and married Ulfhild, his wife, daughter of King Ethelred. With Ulfkel +was slain every man on sixty ships, and Cnut took Lundunaborg."</p></div> + +<p>Matthew, of Westminster, also records this massacre +of the Danes, and other authorities consider that the +account in the <i>Saga</i> is founded on fact. However that +may be, the Danes undoubtedly had a colony here of +their traders, merchants, and seamen, and dedicated their +church to their favourite saint, St. Clement, the patron +of mariners, whose constant emblem is an anchor. Nor +was this the only location of the Northmen. Southwark +was their fortified trading place, where they had a church +dedicated to St. Olaf, the patron saint of Norway. His +name remains in Tooley Street, not a very evident but +certainly true derivative of St. Olaf's Street. There are +three churches dedicated to St. Olave, who was none +other than St. Olaf. St. Magnus, too, tells of the +Northmen, who was one of their favourite saints. Going +back to the church of St. Clement Danes, we notice that +it was rebuilt in 1682 under the advice of Wren, the +tower and steeple being added forty years later.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_210" id="Page_210">{210}</a></span> +Dr. Johnson used to attend here, and a pillar near his +seat bears the inscription:</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>"In this pew and beside this pillar, for many years attended Divine +Service, the celebrated Dr. Johnson, the philosopher, the poet, the great +lexicographer, the profound moralist, and chief writer of his time. Born +1709, died 1794. In remembrance and honour of noble faculties, nobly +employed, some inhabitants of the parish of St. Clement Danes have +placed this slight memorial, <span class="smcap lowercase">A.D.</span> 1851."</p></div> + +<p>One of the most important city churches is St. Mary-le-Bow, +Cheapside. It is one of Wren's finest works; +but the old church, destroyed by the Great Fire, had a +notable history, being one of the earliest Norman +buildings in the country. Stow says it was named +St. Mary <i>de Arcubus</i> from its being built on arches of +stone, these arches forming a crypt, which still exists. +The tower was a place of sanctuary, but not a very +effectual one, as Longbeard, a ringleader of a riot, was +forced out of his refuge by fire in 1190, and Ducket, +a goldsmith, was murdered. The Bow bells are famous, +and one of them was rung nightly for the closing of +shops. Everyone knows the protesting rhyme of the +'prentices of the Cheap when the clerk rang the bell +late, and the reassuring reply of that officer, who +probably feared the blows of their staves. Lanterns +hung in the arches of the spire as beacons for travellers. +The bells of Bow are said to have recalled Dick +Whittington, and those who have always lived in the +district where their sound can be heard are +deemed very ignorant folk by their country cousins. +Whittington's church was St. Michael's Paternoster +Royal, Thames Street, which he rebuilt, and wherein he +was buried, though his body has been twice disturbed. +The church was destroyed by the Great Fire, and rebuilt +by Wren.</p> + +<p>It is impossible for us to visit all the churches, each +of which possesses some feature of interest, some +historical association. They impart much beauty to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_211" id="Page_211">{211}</a></span> +every view of the city, and not one of them can be +spared. Sometimes, in this utilitarian age, wise men +tell us that we should pull down many of these ancient +buildings, sell the valuable sites, and build other churches +in the suburbs, where they would be more useful. +Eighteen of Wren's churches have been thus destroyed, +besides several of later date. The city merchants of +old built their churches, and made great sacrifices in +doing so, for the honour of God and the good of their +fellow-men, and it is not for their descendants to pull +them down. If suburban people want churches, they +should imitate the example of their forefathers, and +make sacrifices in order to build them. Streets, old +palaces, interesting houses, are fast vanishing; the +churches—at least, some of them—remain to tell the +story of the ancient civic life, to point the way to +higher things amid the bustling scenes of mercantile +activity and commercial unrest. The readers of these +Memorials will wish "strength i' th' arme" to the City +Churches Preservation Society to do battle for these +historic landmarks of ancient London.</p> + + +<h3>The Pageant of the Streets</h3> + +<p>Nothing helps us to realise the condition of ancient +London, its growth and expansion, like a careful study +of its street-names. It shows that in the Middle Ages +London was very different from that great, overcrowded, +noisy, and far-extending metropolis which we see to-day. +It is difficult for us in these days to realise the small +extent of ancient London, when Charing was a village +situated between the cities of Westminster and London; +or, indeed, to go back in imagination even a century +or two ago, when the citizens could go a-nutting on +Notting Hill, and when it was possible to see Temple +Bar from Leicester Square, then called Leicester Fields, +and with a telescope observe the heads of the Scotch<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_212" id="Page_212">{212}</a></span> +rebels which adorned the spikes of the old gateway. +In the early coaching days, on account of the impassable +roads, it required three hours to journey from Paddington +to the city. Kensington, Islington, Brompton, and +Paddington were simply country villages, separated by +fields and pastures from London; and the names of +such districts as Spitalfields, Bethnal Green, Smithfield, +Moorfields, and many others, now crowded with houses, +indicate the once rural character of the neighbourhood.</p> + +<p>The area enclosed by the city walls was not larger than +Hyde Park. Their course has been already traced, but we +can follow them on the map of London by means of the +names of the streets. Thus, beginning at the Tower, we +pass on to Aldgate, and then to Bishopsgate. Outside was +a protecting moat, which survives in the name Houndsditch, +wherein doubtless dead dogs found a resting +place. Then we pass on to London Wall, a street which +sufficiently tells its derivation. Outside this part of the +wall there was a fen, or bog, or moor, which survives +in Moorfields, Moorgate Street, and possibly Finsbury; +and Artillery Street shows where the makers of bows +and arrows had their shops, near the artillery ground, +where the users of these weapons practised at the butts. +The name of the Barbican tells of a tower that guarded +Aldersgate, and some remains of the wall can still be +seen in Castle Street and in the churchyard of St. Giles', +Cripplegate, the derivation of which has at length been +satisfactorily determined by Mr. Loftie in our first +chapter, and has nothing to do with the multitude of +cripples which Stow imagined congregated there. Thence +we go to Newgate and the Old Bailey, names that tell +of walls and fortifications. Everyone knows the name +of the Bailey court of a castle, which intervened between +the keep or stronger portion of the defences and the +outer walls or gate. The court of the Old Bailey +suggests to modern prisoners other less pleasing ideas.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_213" id="Page_213">{213}</a></span> +Now the wall turns southward, in the direction of +Ludgate, where it was protected by a stream called +the Fleet, whence the name Fleet Street is derived. +Canon Isaac Taylor suggests that Fleet Street is really +Flood Street, from which Ludgate or Floodgate takes +its name. We prefer the derivation given by Mr. Loftie. +On the south of Ludgate, and on the bank of the +Thames, stood a mighty strong castle, called Baynard +Castle, constructed by William the Conqueror to aid +him, with the Tower of London, to keep the citizens +in order. It has entirely disappeared, but if you look +closely at the map you will find a wharf which records +its memory, and a ward of the city also is named after +the long vanished stronghold. Now the course of the +wall follows the north bank of the river Thames, and +the names Dowgate and Billingsgate record its memory +and of the city gates, which allowed peaceable citizens +to enter, but were strong to resist foes and rebels.</p> + +<p>Within these walls craftsmen and traders had their +own particular localities, the members of each trade +working together side by side in their own street or +district; and although now some of the trades have +disappeared, and traders are no longer confined to one +district, the street-names record the ancient home of +their industries. The two great markets were the +Eastcheap and Westcheap, now Cheapside. The former, +in the days of Lydgate, was the abode of the butchers. +Martin Lyckpenny sings:</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Then I hyed me into Est-chepe<br /></span> +<span class="i0">One cryes ribbes of befe and many a pye."<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>And near the butchers naturally were the cooks, who +flourished in Cooks' Row, along Thames Street. +Candlewick Street took its name from the chandlers. +Cornhill marks the site of the ancient corn market. +Haymarket, where the theatre is so well known, was +the site of a market for hay, but that is comparatively<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_214" id="Page_214">{214}</a></span> +modern. The citizens did not go so far out of the +city to buy and sell hay. Stow says: "Then higher +in Grasse Street is that parish church of St. Bennet, +called Grasse Church, of the herb market there kept"; +and though he thinks Fenchurch Street may be derived +from a fenny or moorish ground, "others be of opinion +that it took that name of <i>Fænum</i>, that is, hay sold there, +as Grasse Street took the name of grass, or herbs, there +sold." Wool was sold near the church of St. Mary +Woolchurch, which stood on the site of the present +Mansion House, and in the churchyard was a beam for +the weighing of wool. The name survives in that of +St. Mary Woolnoth, with which parish the other was +united when St. Mary Woolchurch was destroyed by +the Great Fire. Lombard Street marks the settlement +of the great Lombardi merchants, the Italian financiers, +bankers, and pawnbrokers, who found a convenient +centre for their transactions midway between the two +great markets, Eastcheap and Cheapside. Sometimes +the name of the street has been altered in course of +time, so that it is difficult to determine the original +meaning. Thus Sermon Lane has nothing to do with +parsons, but is a corruption of Sheremoniers' Lane, who +"cut and rounded the plates to be coined and stamped +into sterling pence," as Stow says. Near this lane was +the Old Exchange, where money was coined. Later on, +this coining was done at a place still called the mint, +in Bermondsey. Stow thought that Lothbury was so +called because it was a loathsome place, on account of +the noise made by the founders; but it is really a +corruption of Lattenbury, the place where these founders +"cast candlesticks, chafing-dishes, spice mortars, and +such like copper or laton works." Of course, people +sold their fowls in the Poultry; fish and milk and bread +shops were to be found in the streets bearing these names; +and leather in Leather Lane and, perhaps, Leadenhall +Market, said to be a corruption of Leatherhall, though<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_215" id="Page_215">{215}</a></span> +Stow does not give any hint of this. Sopers' Lane +was the abode of the soapmakers; Smithfield of the +smiths. Coleman Street derives its name from the man +who first built and owned it, says Stow; but later +authorities place there the coalmen or charcoal-burners. +As was usual in mediæval towns, the Jews had a district +for themselves, and resided in Old Jewry and Jewin +Street.</p> + +<p>The favourite haunt of booksellers and publishers, +Paternoster Row, derives its name, according to Stow, +"from the stationers or text-writers that dwelled there, +who wrote and sold all sorts of books then in use, namely, +A. B. C. or Absies, with the Paternoster, Ave, Creed, +Graces, etc. There dwelled also turners of beads, and +they are called Paternoster-makers. At the end of +Paternoster Row is Ave Mary Lane, so called upon the +like occasion of text-writers and bead-makers then +dwelling there." Creed Lane and Amen Corner make +up the names of these streets where the worshippers in +Old St. Paul's found their helps to devotion.</p> + +<p>Old London was a city of palaces as well as of +trade. All the great nobles of England had their town +houses, or inns, as they were called. They had vast +retinues of armed men, and required no small lodging. +The Dukes of Exeter and Somerset, the Earl of +Northumberland, and many others, had their town +houses, every vestige of which has passed away, though +their names are preserved by the streets and sites on +which they stood. The Strand, for example, is full of +the memories of these old mansions, which began to +be erected along the river bank when the Wars of the +Roses had ceased, and greater security was felt by the +people of England, who then began to perceive that +it might be possible to live in safety outside the walls +of the city. Northumberland Avenue tells of the house +of the Earls of Northumberland, which stood so late +as 1875; Burleigh Street and Essex Street recall the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_216" id="Page_216">{216}</a></span> +famous Sir William Cecil, Lord Burleigh, whose son +was created Earl of Essex. Arundel House, the mansion +of the Howards, is marked by Arundel Street, Surrey +Street, Howard Street, Norfolk Street, these being the +titles borne by scions of this famous family. The +readers of the chapter on the Royal Palaces need not +be told of the traditions preserved by the names +Somerset House and the Savoy. Cecil Street and +Salisbury Street recall the memory of Salisbury House, +built by Sir Robert Cecil, Earl of Salisbury, brother of +the Earl of Essex mentioned above. Then we have +Bedford Street, with Russell Street, Southampton Street, +Tavistock Street, around Covent Garden. These +names unfold historical truths. Covent Garden is an +abbreviated form of Convent Garden, the garden of the +monks of Westminster. It was granted to the Russell +family at the dissolution of monasteries, and the Russells, +Earls of Bedford, erected a mansion here, which has +long disappeared, but has left traces behind in the +streets named after the various titles to which members +of the Russell family attained. In another part of +London we find traces of the same family. After +leaving Covent Garden they migrated to Bloomsbury, +and there we find Bedford Square, Southampton Street, +Russell Square, Tavistock Square, and Chenies Street, +this latter being named after their seat in Buckinghamshire. +Craven buildings, near Drury Lane, tells of the +home of Lord Craven, the devoted admirer of the +"Queen of Hearts," the beautiful Queen of Bohemia. +Clare House, the mansion of the Earls of Clare, survives +in Clare Market; and Leicester Square points to the +residence of the favourite of Queen Elizabeth, and +Villiers Street and Buckingham Street to that of another +court favourite, the Duke of Buckingham. The bishops +also had their town houses, and their sites are recorded +by such names as Ely Place, Salisbury Square, Bangor +Court, and Durham Street.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_217" id="Page_217">{217}</a></span></p> + +<p>We might wander westward, and trace the progress +of building and of fashion, and mark the streets that +bear witness to the memories of great names in English +history; but that would take us far beyond our limits. +Going back citywards, we should find many other +suggestive names of streets—those named after churches; +those that record the memories of religious houses, such +as Blackfriars, Austin Friars, Crutched Friars; those +that mark the course of many streams and brooks that +now find their way underground to the great river. +All these names recall glimpses of Old London, and +must be cherished as priceless memorials of ancient days.</p> + + +<h3>The Heart of the City</h3> + +<p>In the centre of London, at the eastern end of +Cheapside, stand the Royal Exchange, the Mansion +House, and Bank of England, all of which merit +attention. The official residence of the Lord Mayor—associated +with the magnificent hospitality of the city, +with the memory of many distinguished men who have +held the office of Chief Magistrate, and with the +innumerable charitable schemes which have been initiated +there—was built by Dance, and completed in 1753. It +is in the Italian style, and resembles a Palladian +Palace. Its conspicuous front, with Corinthian columns +supporting a pediment, in the centre of which is a +group of allegorical sculpture, is well known to all +frequenters of the city. Formerly it had an open +court, but this has been roofed over and converted into +a grand banquetting hall, known as the Egyptian Hall. +There are other dining rooms, a ball room, and drawing +room, all superbly decorated, and the Mansion House +is a worthy home for the Lord Mayor of London.</p> + +<p>The Bank of England commenced its career in 1691; +founded by William Paterson, a Scotsman, and +incorporated by William III. The greatest monetary<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_218" id="Page_218">{218}</a></span> +establishment in the world at first managed to contain +its wealth in a single chest, not much larger than a +seaman's box. Its first governor was Sir John Houblon, +who appears largely in the recent interesting volume on +the records of the Houblon family, and whose house +and garden were on part of the site of the present +bank. The halls of the mercers and grocers provided +a home for the officials in their early dealings. The +site of the bank was occupied by a church, St. +Christopher-le-Stocks, three taverns, and several houses. +These have all been removed to make room for the +extensions which from time to time were found necessary. +The back of the Threadneedle Street front is the +earliest portion—built in 1734, to which Sir Robert +Taylor added two wings; and then Sir John Soane +was appointed architect, and constructed the remainder +of the present buildings in the Corinthian style, after +the model of the Temple of the Sibyl at Tivoli. There +have been several subsequent additions, including the +heightening of the Cornhill front by an attic in 1850. +There have been many exciting scenes without those +sombre-looking walls. It has been attacked by rioters. +Panics have created "runs" on the bank; in 1745 the +managers just saved themselves by telling their agents +to demand payment for large sums in sixpences, which +took a long time to count, the agents then paying in +the sixpences, which had to be again counted, and +thus preventing <i>bonâ-fide</i> holders of notes presenting +them. At one time the corporation had a very +insignificant amount of money in the bank, and just +saved themselves by issuing one pound notes. The +history of forgeries on the bank would make an +interesting chapter, and the story of its defence in the +riots of 1780, when old inkstands were used as bullets by +the gallant defenders, fills a page of old-world romance.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/image_041.jpg" width="600" height="354" alt="" /> +<div class="caption"><p class='center'><span class="smcap">The Royal Exchange.</span></p> + +<p class='center'><i>Engraved by Hollar, 1644.</i></p></div> +</div> + +<p>But interesting as these buildings are, their stories +pale before that of the Royal Exchange. The present<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_219" id="Page_219">{219}</a></span> +building was finished in 1844, and opened by her late +Majesty Queen Victoria with a splendid state and civic +function. Its architecture is something after the style +of the Pantheon at Rome. Why the architects of that +and earlier periods always chose Italian models for +their structures is one of the mysteries of human error; +but, as we have seen, all these three main buildings in +the heart of the city are copied from Italian structures. +William Tite was the architect, and he achieved no +mean success. The great size of the portico, the vastness +of the columns, the frieze and sculptured tympanum, +and striking figures, all combine to make it an imposing +building. Upon the pedestal of the figure of +"Commerce" is the inscription: "The earth is the +Lord's, and the fulness thereof." The interior has been +enriched by a series of mural paintings, representing +scenes from the municipal life of London, the work of +eminent artists.</p> + +<p>This exchange is the third which has stood upon +this site. The first was built by Sir Thomas Gresham, +one of the famous family of merchants to whom +London owes many benefits. It was a "goodly Burse," +of Flemish design, having been built by a Flemish +architect and Flemish workmen, and closely resembled +the great Burse of Antwerp. The illustration, taken +from an old engraving by Hollar, 1644, shows the +building with its large court, with an arcade, a corridor +or "pawn" of stalls above, and, in the high-pitched +roof, chambers with dormer windows. Above the roofs +a high bell-tower is seen, from which, at twelve o'clock +at noon and at six in the evening, a bell sounded forth +that proclaimed the call to 'Change. The merchants +are shown walking or sitting on the benches transacting +their business. Each nationality or trade had its own +"walk." Thus there were the "Scotch walk," "Hanbro'," +"Irish," "East country," "Swedish," "Norway," +"American," "Jamaica," "Spanish," "Portugal,"<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_220" id="Page_220">{220}</a></span> +"French," "Greek," and "Dutch and Jewellers'" walks. +When Queen Elizabeth came to open the Exchange, the +tradesmen began to use the hundred shops in the +corridor, and "milliners or haberdashers sold mouse-traps, +bird-cages, shoeing-horns, Jews' trumps, etc.; +armourers, that sold both old and new armour; +apothecaries, booksellers, goldsmiths, and glass-sellers." +The Queen declared that this beautiful building should +be no longer called the Burse, but gave it the name +"The Royal Exchange." In the illustration some +naughty boys have trespassed upon the seclusion of +the busy merchants, and the beadle is endeavouring to +drive them out of the quadrangle.</p> + +<p>This fine building was destroyed by the Great Fire, +when all the statues fell down save that of the founder, +Sir Thomas Gresham. His trustees, now known as the +Gresham Committee, set to work to rebuild it, and +employed Edward German as their architect, though +Wren gave advice concerning the project. As usual, +the citizens were not very long in accomplishing their task, +and three years after the fire the second Exchange was +opened, and resembled in plan its predecessor. Many +views of it appear in the Crace collection in the British +Museum. In 1838 it was entirely destroyed by fire. In +the clock-tower there was a set of chimes, and the +last tune they played, appropriately, was, "There's nae +luck about the house." As we have seen, in a few years +the present Royal Exchange arose, which we trust will +be more fortunate than its predecessors, and never fall +a victim to the flames.</p> + +<hr class="tb" /> + +<p>There is much else that we should like to see in +Old London, and record in these Memorials. We should +like to visit the old fairs, especially Bartholomew Fair, +Smithfield, either in the days of the monks or with +my Lady Castlemaine, who came in her coach, and +mightily enjoyed a puppet show; and the wild beasts,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_221" id="Page_221">{221}</a></span> +dwarfs, operas, tight-rope dancing, sarabands, dogs +dancing the Morrice, hare beating a tabor, a tiger +pulling the feathers from live fowls, the humours of +Punchinello, and drolls of every degree. Pages might +be written of the celebrities of the fair, of the puppet +shows, where you could see such incomparable dramas +as <i>Whittington and his Cat</i>, <i>Dr. Faustus</i>, <i>Friar Bacon</i>, +<i>Robin Hood and Little John</i>, <i>Mother Shipton</i>, together +with "the tuneful warbling pig of Italian race." But +our pageant is passing, and little space remains. We +should like to visit the old prisons. A friend of the +writer, Mr. Milliken, has allowed himself to be locked +in all the ancient gaols which have remained to our +time, and taken sketches of all the cells wherein famous +prisoners have been confined; of gates, and bars, and bolts +and doors, which have once restrained nefarious gaol-birds. +Terrible places they were, these prisons, wherein +prisoners were fleeced and robbed by governors and +turnkeys, and, if they had no money, were kicked and +buffeted in the most merciless manner. Old Newgate, +which has just disappeared, has perhaps the most +interesting history. It began its career as a prison in +the form of a tower or part of the city gate. Thus +it continued until the Great Fire, after which it was +restored by Wren. In our illustration of the old +gatehouse, it will be seen that it had a windmill at +the top. This was an early attempt at ventilation, in +order to overcome the dread malady called "gaol +distemper," which destroyed many prisoners. Many +notable names appear on the list of those who suffered +here, including several literary victims, whose writings +caused them grievous sufferings. The prison so lately +destroyed was designed by George Dance in 1770. +A recent work on architecture describes it as almost +perfect of its kind. Before it was completed it was +attacked by the Gordon rioters, who released the +prisoners and set it on fire. It was repaired and finished<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_222" id="Page_222">{222}</a></span> +in 1782. Outwardly so imposing, inwardly it was, for +a long period, one of the worst prisons in London, full +of vice and villainy, unchecked, unreformed; while +outside frequently gathered tumultuous crowds to see +the condemned prisoners hanged. We might have +visited also the debtors' prisons with Mr. Pickwick and +other notables, if our minds were not surfeited with +prison fare; and even followed the hangman's cart +to Tyburn, to see the last of some notorious criminals. +Where the Ludgate Railway Station now stands was +the famous Fleet prison, which had peculiar privileges, +the Liberty of the Fleet allowing prisoners to go on +bail and lodge in the neighbourhood of the prison. +The district extended from the entrance to St. Paul's +churchyard, Old Bailey, Ludgate Hill, to the Thames. +Everyone has heard of the Fleet marriages that took +place in this curious neighbourhood. On the other side +of New Bridge Street there was a wild district called +Alsatia, extending from Fleet Street to the Thames, +wherein, until 1697, cheats and scoundrels found a safe +sanctuary, and could not be disturbed.</p> + +<p>Again, we should like to visit the old public gardens, +Vauxhall and Ranelagh, in company with Horace +Walpole, or with Miss Burney's <i>Evelina</i> or Fielding's +<i>Amelia</i>, and note "the extreme beauty and elegance of +the place, with its 1,000 lamps"; "and happy is it for +me," the young lady remarks, "since to give an adequate +idea of it would exceed my power of description."</p> + +<p>But the pageant must at length pass on, and we +must wake from the dreams of the past to find ourselves +in our ever growing, ever changing, modern London. +It is sufficient for us to reflect sometimes on the past +life of the great city, to see again the scenes which +took place in the streets and lanes we know so well, +to form some ideas of the characters and manners of +our forefathers, and to gather together some memorials +of the greatest and most important city in the world.</p> +</div> +<hr class="chap" /> + + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_223" id="Page_223">{223}</a></span></p> + +<h2><a name="INDEX" id="INDEX">INDEX</a></h2> + +<p class='center'>[Transcriber's Note: Links to volume i are external links to +etext 28742 on the Project Gutenberg website. They require an internet connection +and may not be supported by your device.]</p> + + +<ul class="index"><li class="ifrst">Abbey, Bermondsey, ii., <a href="#Page_46">46</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Abbot of Westminster and monks in Tower prison, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_59">59</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— of Malmesbury, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_159">159</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Actor, Thomas Davies the, ii., <a href="#Page_178">178</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Addison at Wills' Coffee-house, ii., <a href="#Page_178">178</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Albemarle Club, ii., <a href="#Page_110">110</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Monk, Duke of, ii., <a href="#Page_75">75</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Albus, Liber, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_122">122</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Aldermanbury, St. Mary, ii., <a href="#Page_31">31</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Aldersgate, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_21">21</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Aldgate, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_24">24</a>; ii., <a href="#Page_39">39</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Aldwych, ii., <a href="#Page_208">208</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Alfred Club, ii., <a href="#Page_107">107</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— the Great, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_13">13</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_19">19</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_111">111</a></li> + +<li class="indx">All Hallows Barking ii., <a href="#Page_204">204</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Staining, Mark Lane, ii., <a href="#Page_205">205</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— the More, Church of, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_230">230</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Alpine Club, ii., <a href="#Page_110">110</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Alsatia, ii., <a href="#Page_36">36</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Anecdote of Charles II. and the Chaplains' dinner, ii., <a href="#Page_62">62</a></li> + +<li class="indx">"Angel Inn," Wych Street, ii., <a href="#Page_131">131</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Anglo-Saxon houses, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_114">114</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Anlaf the Dane, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_10">10</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Anthropological Institute, ii., <a href="#Page_163">163</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Society, ii., <a href="#Page_162">162</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Antiquaries, Society of, ii., <a href="#Page_150">150</a>, <a href="#Page_153">153</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Apothecaries' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_200">200</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Apprentices of London, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_123">123</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— dress of, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_124">124</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— flogging of, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_124">124</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Archæological Association, British, ii., <a href="#Page_163">163</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Institute, ii., <a href="#Page_164">164</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Archbishop of Canterbury, William de Corbeil, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_68">68</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Archdeacon Hale, reforms of, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_103">103</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Archery, ii., <a href="#Page_43">43</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Architect, George Dance, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_182">182</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— of Palace of Westminster, ii., <a href="#Page_2">2</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— of Tower, Gundulf, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_32">32</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_33">33</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Architecture, Crusaders' influence on, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_134">134</a></li> + +<li class="indx"><i>Armory, London's</i>, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_240">240</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Armourers' and Braziers' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_200">200</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_201">201</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Arms of the City and See of London, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_233">233</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Army and Navy Club, ii., <a href="#Page_102">102</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Arsenal, Tower an, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_56">56</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_60">60</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Arthur's Club, ii., <a href="#Page_101">101</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Artillery Street, ii., <a href="#Page_212">212</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Artists, Blackfriars as abode of, ii., <a href="#Page_49">49</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Artizans' Houses, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_125">125</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Arts, Society of, ii., <a href="#Page_154">154</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Arundel House, ii., <a href="#Page_216">216</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Asiatic Society, Royal, ii., <a href="#Page_158">158</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Associates of the Temple, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_136">136</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Association, British Archæological, ii., <a href="#Page_163">163</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— for the Advancement of Science, British, ii., <a href="#Page_158">158</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Associations of Covent Garden, Literary, ii., <a href="#Page_178">178</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— of Pall Mall, Literary, ii., <a href="#Page_179">179</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— of St. James' Street, Literary, ii., <a href="#Page_180">180</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— of the Temple, Literary, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_146">146</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Athenæum Club, ii., <a href="#Page_105">105</a></li> + +<li class="indx"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_224" id="Page_224">{224}</a></span>Augustine Friars, ii., <a href="#Page_36">36</a></li> + +<li class="indx">August Society of the Wanderers Club, ii., <a href="#Page_101">101</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Aulus Plautius, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_6">6</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Austin Friars, ii., <a href="#Page_27">27</a>, <a href="#Page_217">217</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Authors' Club, ii., <a href="#Page_110">110</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Authors of the Temple, ii., <a href="#Page_174">174</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Ave Mary Lane, ii., <a href="#Page_215">215</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Avenue, Northumberland, ii., <a href="#Page_215">215</a></li> + +<li class="indx">"Axe" Inn, Aldermanbury, ii., <a href="#Page_131">131</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Axe Yard, Westminster, ii., <a href="#Page_54">54</a></li> +</ul> + + +<ul class="index"><li class="ifrst">Bacon, Sir Francis, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_101">101</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Bacon's Inn, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_174">174</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Bailey, Old, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_25">25</a>; ii., <a href="#Page_212">212</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Bakers' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_201">201</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Bank of England, ii., <a href="#Page_217">217</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Bankside, ii., <a href="#Page_45">45</a></li> + +<li class="indx">"Banqueting Hall," Tower, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_35">35</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Banqueting House, Whitehall, ii., <a href="#Page_14">14</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Banquets, City, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_188">188</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Barbers', or Barber Surgeons' Company i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_201">201</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Barbican, ii., <a href="#Page_212">212</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— destroyed, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_53">53</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Barges of City Companies, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_195">195</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Barnard's Inn, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_168">168</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Barry, Sir Charles, ii., <a href="#Page_2">2</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Bars, London, ii., <a href="#Page_52">52</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Bartholomew Fair, ii., <a href="#Page_220">220</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— the Great, St., Smithfield, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_66">66</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Basilica, Roman, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_7">7</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Bath Club, ii., <a href="#Page_110">110</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Roman, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_7">7</a></li> + +<li class="indx">"Batson's" Coffee-house, ii., <a href="#Page_137">137</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Battle at Crayford, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_14">14</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Baynard Castle, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_30">30</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_122">122</a>; ii., <a href="#Page_213">213</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Bear-baiting, ii., <a href="#Page_44">44</a>, <a href="#Page_47">47</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Bear Garden, ii., <a href="#Page_47">47</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Beauchamp, Monument of Sir John, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_118">118</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Beauvale, Nottinghamshire, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_87">87</a></li> + +<li class="indx">"Bedford" Coffee-house, ii., <a href="#Page_137">137</a>, <a href="#Page_138">138</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Bedford, Earls of, ii., <a href="#Page_216">216</a></li> + +<li class="indx">"Bell and Crown" Inn, Holborn, ii., <a href="#Page_125">125</a></li> + +<li class="indx">"Bell" Inn, Warwick Lane, ii., <a href="#Page_131">131</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Bell Inn, ii., <a href="#Page_114">114</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Bells of Bow, The, ii., <a href="#Page_210">210</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Belmie, Richard de, Bishop of London, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_68">68</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Berkeley House, ii., <a href="#Page_53">53</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Bermondsey Abbey, ii., <a href="#Page_46">46</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Berwick Bridge and Bribery, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_101">101</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Bethnal Green, ii., <a href="#Page_53">53</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Billingsgate, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_8">8</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_126">126</a>; ii., <a href="#Page_21">21</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Bishop of London, Mellitus, first, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_16">16</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Richard de Belmies, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_68">68</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Bishopsgate, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_18">18</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_228">228</a>; ii., <a href="#Page_183">183</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Bishops of London, seals of, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_236">236</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Bishops' houses, ii., <a href="#Page_216">216</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Bishopric of London, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_89">89</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Black death, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_88">88</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Blackfriars, ii., <a href="#Page_47">47</a>, <a href="#Page_217">217</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— abode of artists, ii., <a href="#Page_49">49</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Bridge, ii., <a href="#Page_95">95</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Glovers in, ii., <a href="#Page_49">49</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— playhouse near, ii., <a href="#Page_48">48</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Shakespeare's house in, ii., <a href="#Page_50">50</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Vandyke's studio in, ii., <a href="#Page_49">49</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Blacksmiths' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_201">201</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Blackwell Hall, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_183">183</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Blake, William, poet, painter, ii., <a href="#Page_176">176</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Bloody Gate Tower, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_47">47</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_61">61</a></li> + +<li class="indx">"Blossoms" Inn, ii., <a href="#Page_131">131</a></li> + +<li class="indx">"Blue Boar" Inn, ii., <a href="#Page_118">118</a></li> + +<li class="indx">"Boar's Head" Inn, ii., <a href="#Page_168">168</a></li> + +<li class="indx">"Bolt-in-Tun" Inn, Fleet Street, ii., <a href="#Page_127">127</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Bolton, William, prior of St. Bartholomew, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_76">76</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Bonfires, ii., <a href="#Page_41">41</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Boodle's Club, ii., <a href="#Page_101">101</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Borough, The, ii., <a href="#Page_166">166</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Boswell, ii., <a href="#Page_176">176</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Bow Bells, ii., <a href="#Page_210">210</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Bowyers' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_201">201</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Braziers' Company, Armourers' and, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_200">200</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_201">201</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Bread Street, ii., <a href="#Page_30">30</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— John Milton born in, ii., <a href="#Page_170">170</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Brewers' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_201">201</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Bribery and Berwick Bridge, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_101">101</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Extraordinary, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_101">101</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Brick building by the Hansa, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_229">229</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Bridewell, ii., <a href="#Page_6">6</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Hospital, ii., <a href="#Page_49">49</a>, <a href="#Page_196">196</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Palace of, ii., <a href="#Page_48">48</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Bridge, Blackfriars, ii., <a href="#Page_95">95</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Chapel, ii., <a href="#Page_88">88</a>, <a href="#Page_90">90</a></li> + +<li class="indx"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_225" id="Page_225">{225}</a></span>—— Gate, ii., <a href="#Page_88">88</a>, <a href="#Page_90">90</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Old London, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_6">6</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_10">10</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_125">125</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— of London, ii., <a href="#Page_21">21</a>, <a href="#Page_24">24</a>, <a href="#Page_28">28</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— St. Thomas of the, ii., <a href="#Page_24">24</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Southwark, ii., <a href="#Page_82">82</a>, <a href="#Page_97">97</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Waterloo, ii., <a href="#Page_97">97</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Westminster, ii., <a href="#Page_94">94</a></li> + +<li class="indx">"Bridge House Estates," ii., <a href="#Page_87">87</a></li> + +<li class="indx">British Archæological Association, ii., <a href="#Page_163">163</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Association for the Advancement of Science, ii., <a href="#Page_158">158</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Broad Street, ii., <a href="#Page_36">36</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Broderers' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_201">201</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Brontë, Charlotte and Anne, ii., <a href="#Page_171">171</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Brook, Turnmill, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_149">149</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Brooks's Club, ii., <a href="#Page_101">101</a>, <a href="#Page_103">103</a></li> + +<li class="indx"><i>Brooks's, Memorials of</i>, ii., <a href="#Page_103">103</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Brown, Dr. Haig, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_104">104</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Buckingham Palace, ii., <a href="#Page_15">15</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Bucklersbury, ii., <a href="#Page_30">30</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Builder of Tower of London, Gundulf, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_32">32</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_33">33</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Westminster Bridge, Labelye, ii., <a href="#Page_94">94</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Building, Goldsmith, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_146">146</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Lamb, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_147">147</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— operations at the Tower, Henry III., i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_50">50</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Wren's, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_144">144</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Buildings, Craven, ii., <a href="#Page_216">216</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Harcourt, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_146">146</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Johnson's, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_146">146</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Mitre Court, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_147">147</a></li> + +<li class="indx">"Bull and Mouth" Inn, St. Martin's-le-Grand, ii., <a href="#Page_129">129</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Bull-Baiting, ii., <a href="#Page_46">46</a></li> + +<li class="indx">"Bull" Inn, ii., <a href="#Page_119">119</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— in Bishopsgate Street, ii., <a href="#Page_121">121</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Burbage, James, ii., <a href="#Page_45">45</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Burleigh Street, ii., <a href="#Page_215">215</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Burlington House, ii., <a href="#Page_53">53</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Butler, Samuel, ii., <a href="#Page_179">179</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Button's Coffee-house, ii., <a href="#Page_99">99</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Byron, Lord, ii., <a href="#Page_180">180</a></li></ul> + + +<ul class="index"><li class="ifrst">Camden's description of St. Paul's Cathedral, ii., <a href="#Page_33">33</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Candlewick Street, ii., <a href="#Page_213">213</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Cannon Street, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_116">116</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Canterbury, William de Corbeil, Archbishop of, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_68">68</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Capital of Kings of Essex, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_12">12</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Cardinal Wolsey, ii., <a href="#Page_13">13</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Wolsey's Palace, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_116">116</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Carlton Club, ii., <a href="#Page_108">108</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Carpenters' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_200">200</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_202">202</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Carthusian house, first, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_87">87</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Order, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_86">86</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Carved woodwork in City Churches, ii., <a href="#Page_207">207</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Cassius, Dion, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_3">3</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Castle, Baynard, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_30">30</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_122">122</a>; ii., <a href="#Page_213">213</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Castles of earth and timber, Early, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_49">49</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Cathedral, St. Paul's, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_16">16</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_24">24</a></li> + +<li class="indx">"Catherine Wheel" Inn, ii., <a href="#Page_123">123</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Cedd, St., i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_16">16</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Celtic London, i., <a href="#Page_1">1-5</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— site of, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_2">2</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Chair in Fishmongers' Hall, ii., <a href="#Page_92">92</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Chancery, difference between the Inns of Court and, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_161">161</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Holborn and the Inns of Court and, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_149">149</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_177">177</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Inns of, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_167">167</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Lane, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_133">133</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_153">153</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Change, Old, ii., <a href="#Page_32">32</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Chantry Chapel of St. Bartholomew, built by de Walden, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_72">72</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Chapel, Bridge, ii., <a href="#Page_88">88</a>, <a href="#Page_90">90</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Guildhall, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_182">182</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— London Bridge, ii., <a href="#Page_24">24</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— of St. John, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_36">36</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— of St. Peter and Vincula, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_42">42</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_49">49</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_57">57</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Pardon Churchyard and, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_88">88</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Royal, at St. James's Palace, ii., <a href="#Page_12">12</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Savoy, ii., <a href="#Page_4">4</a></li> + +<li class="indx">"Chapter" Coffee-house, ii., <a href="#Page_137">137</a>, <a href="#Page_139">139</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Charing Cross, the "Rummer" in, ii., <a href="#Page_179">179</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— "Three Tuns" at, ii., <a href="#Page_71">71</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Charles I. a prisoner in St. James's Palace, ii., <a href="#Page_9">9</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— his execution, ii., <a href="#Page_10">10</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Charles II. and the Chaplains' dinner, anecdote of, ii., <a href="#Page_62">62</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Evelyn's description of Restoration of, ii., <a href="#Page_55">55</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Charles the Martyr, ii., <a href="#Page_10">10</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Charnel-house, St. Bartholomew, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_78">78</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Charter of William I., i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_22">22</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Charterhouse, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_86">86</a></li> + +<li class="indx"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_226" id="Page_226">{226}</a></span>—— alterations in sixteenth century, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_97">97</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— ejection of schoolmaster, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_103">103</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— fifteenth century plan of, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_94">94</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Hospital, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_98">98</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— John Houghton, Prior of, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_91">91</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Monastery, destruction of, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_93">93</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Palace, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_94">94</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Refectory, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_94">94</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— reforms of Archdeacon Hale, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_103">103</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— School, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_102">102</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— —— moved to Godalming, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_104">104</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Chaucer, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_124">124</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— marriage of, ii., <a href="#Page_4">4</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Cheapside, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_126">126</a>; ii., <a href="#Page_29">29</a>, <a href="#Page_30">30</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— St. Mary-le-Bow, ii., <a href="#Page_210">210</a></li> + +<li class="indx">"Cheshire Cheese," ii., <a href="#Page_173">173</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Cheshire Cheese Club, ii., <a href="#Page_99">99</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Christchurch, ii., <a href="#Page_39">39</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Christ Church, Spitalfields, ii., <a href="#Page_207">207</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Christ's Hospital, ii., <a href="#Page_35">35</a>, <a href="#Page_194">194</a>, <a href="#Page_196">196</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— —— pictures at, ii., <a href="#Page_200">200</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— —— removed to Horsham, ii., <a href="#Page_203">203</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— —— Samuel Pepys and, ii., <a href="#Page_198">198</a></li> + +<li class="indx"><i>Chronicle of the Grey Friars of London</i>, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_109">109</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Church, All Hallows the More, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_230">230</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— consecrated by Heraclius, Temple, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_133">133</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— desecration of Temple, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_145">145</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— effigies in Temple, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_136">136</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Life of the City, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_127">127</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Organ, Temple, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_145">145</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— St. Andrew in Holborn, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_164">164</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— St. Andrew in the Wardrobe, ii., <a href="#Page_50">50</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— St. Bartholomew the Great, former neglected condition of, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_66">66</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— St. Bride, ii., <a href="#Page_6">6</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— St. Buttolph, ii., <a href="#Page_38">38</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— St. Helen, ii., <a href="#Page_184">184</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— St. Leonard's, ii., <a href="#Page_42">42</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— St. Mary le Bow, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_24">24</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— St. Michael-le-Querne, ii., <a href="#Page_32">32</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Churches, carved woodwork in City, ii., <a href="#Page_207">207</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— City, ii., <a href="#Page_203">203</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— destroyed, Wren's, ii., <a href="#Page_206">206</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— in London, number of, ii., <a href="#Page_23">23</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Plays in, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_129">129</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Churchyard and Chapel, Pardon, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_88">88</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Citizens, liveries of, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_192">192</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Middlesex granted to the, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_23">23</a></li> + +<li class="indx">City and See of London, Arms of the, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_233">233</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— banquets, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_188">188</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Churches, carved woodwork in, ii., <a href="#Page_207">207</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— —— ii., <a href="#Page_203">203</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Church life of the, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_127">127</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Companies, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_191">191</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— —— barges of the, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_195">195</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— —— Charity and Religion of, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_195">195</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— —— Patron Saints of, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_196">196</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— —— promotion of trade by, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_196">196</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Customs of the, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_187">187</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Feasts, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_192">192</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Freedom of the, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_185">185</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Gates of, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_11">11</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Heart of the, ii., <a href="#Page_217">217</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— of palaces, ii., <a href="#Page_215">215</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Civil War troubles, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_102">102</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Clare Market, ii., <a href="#Page_216">216</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Clarendon House, ii., <a href="#Page_53">53</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Clement's Inn, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_175">175</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Clerkenwell, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_129">129</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_140">140</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Clerks' Company, Parish, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_129">129</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Cleveland Row, Theodore Hook in, ii., <a href="#Page_181">181</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Clifford's Inn, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_175">175</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Clipping or "sweating" coin, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_109">109</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Clockmakers' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_202">202</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Cloister Court, ii., <a href="#Page_50">50</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Cloth Fair, Smithfield, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_116">116</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Clothworkers' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_199">199</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Hall, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_222">222</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Club, Albemarle, ii., <a href="#Page_110">110</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Alfred, ii., <a href="#Page_107">107</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Alpine, ii., <a href="#Page_110">110</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Army and Navy, ii., <a href="#Page_102">102</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Arthur's, ii., <a href="#Page_101">101</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Athenæum, ii., <a href="#Page_105">105</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— August Society of the Wanderers, ii., <a href="#Page_101">101</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Authors', ii., <a href="#Page_110">110</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Bath, ii., <a href="#Page_110">110</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Boodle's, ii., <a href="#Page_101">101</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Brooks's, ii., <a href="#Page_101">101</a>, <a href="#Page_103">103</a></li> + +<li class="indx"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_227" id="Page_227">{227}</a></span>—— Button's Coffee-house, ii., <a href="#Page_99">99</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Carlton, ii., <a href="#Page_108">108</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Cheshire Cheese, ii., <a href="#Page_99">99</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Cock, ii., <a href="#Page_99">99</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Cocoa Tree, ii., <a href="#Page_101">101</a>, <a href="#Page_180">180</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Conservative, ii., <a href="#Page_109">109</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Fox, ii., <a href="#Page_104">104</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Garrick, ii., <a href="#Page_107">107</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Guards', ii., <a href="#Page_101">101</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Hurlingham, ii., <a href="#Page_110">110</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Junior United Service, ii., <a href="#Page_102">102</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Kit Cat, ii., <a href="#Page_177">177</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Literary, ii., <a href="#Page_180">180</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Marlborough, ii., <a href="#Page_110">110</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Marylebone Cricket, ii., <a href="#Page_110">110</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— National, ii., <a href="#Page_109">109</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Oriental, ii., <a href="#Page_106">106</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— "Rag and Famish," ii., <a href="#Page_103">103</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Reform, ii., <a href="#Page_108">108</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— "Sublime Society of Beef Steaks," ii., <a href="#Page_100">100</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— "Thatched House," ii., <a href="#Page_180">180</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Travellers', ii., <a href="#Page_104">104</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Union, ii., <a href="#Page_104">104</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— United Service, ii., <a href="#Page_101">101</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— United University, ii., <a href="#Page_104">104</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— White's, ii., <a href="#Page_101">101</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Clubs of London, ii., <a href="#Page_99">99</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Coach and Coach-Harness Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_202">202</a></li> + +<li class="indx">"Coal Hole," ii., <a href="#Page_177">177</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Cock Club, ii., <a href="#Page_99">99</a></li> + +<li class="indx">"Cock" Inn, ii., <a href="#Page_71">71</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Cockpit Theatre, ii., <a href="#Page_58">58</a>, <a href="#Page_59">59</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Cocoa Tree Club, ii., <a href="#Page_101">101</a>, <a href="#Page_180">180</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Coffee, first introduction of, ii., <a href="#Page_135">135</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Coffee-house, Button's, ii., <a href="#Page_99">99</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Coffee-houses, Old London, ii., <a href="#Page_135">135</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— as lecture rooms, ii., <a href="#Page_146">146</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— as public reading-rooms, ii., <a href="#Page_143">143</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Manners and modes in, ii., <a href="#Page_148">148</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Museums at, ii., <a href="#Page_146">146</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Quack medicines sold at, ii., <a href="#Page_144">144</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Sales at, ii., <a href="#Page_146">146</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Coin, clipping or "sweating," i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_109">109</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Coins found in the Thames, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_10">10</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Colchester keep, compared with the keep of the Tower, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_33">33</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Cold Harbour Gate, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_41">41</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Colechurch, Peter of, ii., <a href="#Page_85">85</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Coleman Street, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_18">18</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Colet, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_86">86</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Collections, Zoological, ii., <a href="#Page_63">63</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Colony, Danish, ii., <a href="#Page_208">208</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Commerce, Trade and, ii., <a href="#Page_186">186</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Common Hall, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_186">186</a></li> + +<li class="indx">"Common Playhouses," ii., <a href="#Page_43">43</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Companies, Barges of City, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_195">195</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Charity and Religion of City, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_195">195</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— City, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_191">191</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Halls of the, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_217">217</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Patron Saints of City, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_196">196</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Promotion of trade by City, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_196">196</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Spoliation of the, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_214">214</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Company, Apothecaries', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_201">201</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Armourers' and Braziers', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_201">201</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Bakers', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_201">201</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Barbers' or Barber Surgeons', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_201">201</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Blacksmiths', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_201">201</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Bowyers', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_201">201</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Brewers', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_201">201</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Broderers', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_201">201</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Carpenters', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_200">200</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_202">202</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Clockmakers', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_202">202</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Clockworkers', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_199">199</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Coach and Coach Harness, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_202">202</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Cooks', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_202">202</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Coopers', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_203">203</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Cordwainers', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_203">203</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Curriers', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_203">203</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Cutlers', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_203">203</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Distillers', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_203">203</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Drapers', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_198">198</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Dyers', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_203">203</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Fanmakers', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_204">204</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Farriers', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_204">204</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Feltmakers', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_204">204</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Fishmongers', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_195">195</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_197">197</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_198">198</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Fletchers', <a href="#Page_201">201</a>, <a href="#Page_204">204</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Founders', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_204">204</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Framework Knitters', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_205">205</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Fruiterers', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_205">205</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Girdlers', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_205">205</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Glass-sellers', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_206">206</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Glaziers', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_206">206</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Glovers', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_206">206</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Goldsmiths', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_195">195</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_197">197</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Gold and Silver Wyre Drawers', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_206">206</a></li> + +<li class="indx"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_228" id="Page_228">{228}</a></span>—— Grocers', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_197">197</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Gunmakers', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_206">206</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Haberdashers', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_199">199</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Horners', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_207">207</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Innholders', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_207">207</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Ironmongers', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_199">199</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Joiners', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_207">207</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Leathersellers', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_200">200</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_207">207</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Loriners', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_208">208</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Masons', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_208">208</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Mercers', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_197">197</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Merchant Taylors', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_198">198</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Musicians', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_208">208</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Needlemakers', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_208">208</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Painters' or Painter-stainers', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_208">208</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Parish Clerks', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_129">129</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Pattenmakers', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_209">209</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Pewterers', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_209">209</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Plaisterers', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_209">209</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Playing-card Makers', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_209">209</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Plumbers', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_209">209</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Poulters', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_210">210</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Saddlers', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_200">200</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_210">210</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Salters', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_199">199</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Scriveners', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_210">210</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Shipwrights', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_211">211</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Skinners', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_196">196</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_199">199</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Spectacle-makers', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_211">211</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Stationers', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_212">212</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Tallow Chandlers', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_212">212</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Tin-plate Workers', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_212">212</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Turners' or Wood-potters', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_212">212</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Tylers' and Bricklayers', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_212">212</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Upholders', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_212">212</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Vintners', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_197">197</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_199">199</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Wax Chandlers', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_212">212</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Weavers', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_213">213</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Wheelwrights', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_213">213</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Woolmen's, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_213">213</a></li> + +<li class="indx">"Concentric" Castle, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_40">40</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Conduit, ii., <a href="#Page_31">31</a></li> + +<li class="indx">"Conduit, The Little," ii., <a href="#Page_32">32</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Conference, Savoy, ii., <a href="#Page_5">5</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Congreve, ii., <a href="#Page_177">177</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Consecration of the Temple Church by Heraclius, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_133">133</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Conservative Club, ii., <a href="#Page_109">109</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Constable of the Tower, Geoffrey de Mandeville, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_41">41</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— William Puinctel, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_45">45</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Conversion of Jews, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_108">108</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Cooks' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_202">202</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Row, ii., <a href="#Page_213">213</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Coopers' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_203">203</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Corbeil, William de, Archbishop of Canterbury, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_68">68</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Corbis, Peter—Water engineer, ii., <a href="#Page_91">91</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Cordwainers' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_203">203</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Cornhill, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_126">126</a>; ii., <a href="#Page_213">213</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Gray born in, ii., <a href="#Page_171">171</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Corporation, religious services of the, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_183">183</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Corpus Christi Day, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_127">127</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Court and Chancery, difference between the Inns of, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_161">161</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— —— Holborn and the Inns of, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_149">149</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_177">177</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Buildings, Mitre, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_147">147</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Cloister, ii., <a href="#Page_50">50</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Hare, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_145">145</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Northumberland, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_154">154</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— of Requests, ii., <a href="#Page_2">2</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Plays in halls of Inns of, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_143">143</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Tanfield, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_146">146</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Wardrobe, ii., <a href="#Page_50">50</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Covent Garden, ii., <a href="#Page_52">52</a>, <a href="#Page_216">216</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— —— Literary associations of, ii., <a href="#Page_178">178</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Cowley, Abraham, ii., <a href="#Page_171">171</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Cowper, ii., <a href="#Page_174">174</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Craven Buildings, ii., <a href="#Page_216">216</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Crayford, Battle at, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_14">14</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Cripplegate, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_11">11</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_21">21</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— wooden houses, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_115">115</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Croft, Spittle, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_89">89</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Crooked Streets, Narrow and, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_112">112</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Crosby estate at Hanworth-on-Thames, ii., <a href="#Page_186">186</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Hall, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_123">123</a>; ii., <a href="#Page_37">37</a>, <a href="#Page_182">182</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Place, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_115">115</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_122">122</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Richard, Duke of Gloucester, at, ii., <a href="#Page_190">190</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Sir John, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_122">122</a>; ii., <a href="#Page_88">88</a>, <a href="#Page_185">185</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Thomas More at, ii., <a href="#Page_190">190</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Cross, Demolition of St. Paul's, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_120">120</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Eleanor, ii., <a href="#Page_31">31</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Crossbows, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_56">56</a></li> + +<li class="indx">"Cross Keys" in Bishopsgate Street, ii., <a href="#Page_120">120</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Cross, Paul's, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_119">119</a>; ii., <a href="#Page_34">34</a></li> + +<li class="indx">"Crown" Coffee-house, ii., <a href="#Page_138">138</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Inn, Holborn, ii., <a href="#Page_126">126</a></li> + +<li class="indx">"Crowned or Cross Keys" Inn, ii., <a href="#Page_117">117</a></li> + +<li class="indx">"Crug-baskets," ii., <a href="#Page_200">200</a></li> + +<li class="indx"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_229" id="Page_229">{229}</a></span>Crusaders, their influence on architecture, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_134">134</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Crutched Friars, ii., <a href="#Page_217">217</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Crypt of St. Ann's Chapel, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_139">139</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Crypts, Guildhall, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_180">180</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Cursitors' Inn, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_174">174</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Custom House, ii., <a href="#Page_21">21</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Customs of the City, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_187">187</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Cutlers' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_203">203</a></li></ul> + + +<ul class="index"><li class="ifrst">Dance, George, Architect, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_182">182</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Dane, Anlaf the, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_10">10</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Danes destroyed London, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_13">13</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— massacre of the, ii., <a href="#Page_208">208</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Danish colony, ii., <a href="#Page_208">208</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— invasion, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_19">19</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Davenant, ii., <a href="#Page_69">69</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Davies, Thomas, the actor, ii., <a href="#Page_178">178</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Davy's Inn, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_155">155</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_165">165</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_172">172</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Death, Black, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_88">88</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Dekker, ii., <a href="#Page_168">168</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Demolition of Paul's Cross, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_120">120</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Description of Restoration of Charles II., Evelyn's, ii., <a href="#Page_55">55</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Desecration of Temple Church, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_145">145</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Destruction of Charterhouse monastery, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_93">93</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— of Monuments, ii., <a href="#Page_36">36</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— of Wren's churches, ii., <a href="#Page_206">206</a></li> + +<li class="indx">"Devil" Inn, ii., <a href="#Page_173">173</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Devonshire House, ii., <a href="#Page_53">53</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Dickens' days in Hungerford Stairs, ii., <a href="#Page_179">179</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Difference between Inns of Court and Inns of Chancery, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_161">161</a></li> + +<li class="indx">"Dine with Duke Humphrey, to," i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_117">117</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Dinner, anecdote of Charles II. and the Chaplains', ii., <a href="#Page_62">62</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Dion Cassius, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_3">3</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Disabilities of Jews, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_107">107</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Distillers' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_203">203</a></li> + +<li class="indx"><i>Diurnal</i>, Rugge's, ii., <a href="#Page_56">56</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Doctors, Heroic, ii., <a href="#Page_74">74</a></li> + +<li class="indx">"Dog" Inn, ii., <a href="#Page_70">70</a></li> + +<li class="indx">"Dolphin" Inn, ii., <a href="#Page_123">123</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Dominicans' monastery in Shoe Lane, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_150">150</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Dorset Gardens Theatre, ii., <a href="#Page_68">68</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Thomas Sackville, first Earl of, ii., <a href="#Page_171">171</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Dowgate, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_8">8</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Downing Street, ii., <a href="#Page_54">54</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Drapers' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_198">198</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Drayton, Michael, ii., <a href="#Page_171">171</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Dress of apprentices, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_124">124</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Drury Lane Theatre, ii., <a href="#Page_68">68</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Dryden, ii., <a href="#Page_178">178</a></li> + +<li class="indx">"Duke Humphrey, to dine with," i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_117">117</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Duke of Albemarle, Monk, ii., <a href="#Page_75">75</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— of Gloucester, at Crosby Hall, Richard, ii., <a href="#Page_190">190</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Duke's House Theatre, ii., <a href="#Page_67">67</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Place, ii., <a href="#Page_40">40</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Dyers' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_203">203</a></li></ul> + + +<ul class="index"><li class="ifrst">Earl of Warwick, Inn of, in Warwick Lane, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_123">123</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Earls of Bedford, ii., <a href="#Page_216">216</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Early castles of earth and timber, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_49">49</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Times, London in, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_1">1-26</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Earth and timber, early castles of, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_49">49</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Eastcheap, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_126">126</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— and Westcheap, markets of, ii., <a href="#Page_213">213</a></li> + +<li class="indx">East Smithfield, Edmund Spenser born in, ii., <a href="#Page_171">171</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Effigies in Temple Church, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_136">136</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Ejection of Charterhouse Schoolmaster, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_103">103</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Eleanor Cross, ii., <a href="#Page_31">31</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Elizabeth, Industries encouraged by, ii., <a href="#Page_49">49</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Elizabethan London, ii., <a href="#Page_21">21</a></li> + +<li class="indx">England, Bank of, ii., <a href="#Page_217">217</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Enlargement of the Tower by Richard I., i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_44">44</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Erkenwald, Bishop of London, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_17">17</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Ermin Street, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_7">7</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Escape from the Tower of Flambard, Bishop of Durham, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_39">39</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Essex, capital of the Kings of, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_12">12</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Street, ii., <a href="#Page_215">215</a></li> + +<li class="indx">"Estates, Bridge House," ii., <a href="#Page_87">87</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Ethnological Society, ii., <a href="#Page_161">161</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Etiquette in Hyde Park, ii., <a href="#Page_67">67</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Etymology of London, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_2">2</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Eve, Midsummer, ii., <a href="#Page_40">40</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Evelyn, John, ii., <a href="#Page_54">54</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Evelyn's description of Restoration of Charles II., ii., <a href="#Page_55">55</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Exchange, Old, ii., <a href="#Page_214">214</a></li> + +<li class="indx"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_230" id="Page_230">{230}</a></span>—— Royal, ii., <a href="#Page_28">28</a>, <a href="#Page_217">217</a>, <a href="#Page_218">218</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Execution of Charles I., ii., <a href="#Page_10">10</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Expulsion of Jews, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_110">110</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Extraordinary bribery, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_101">101</a></li></ul> + + +<ul class="index"><li class="ifrst">Fair, Bartholomew, ii., <a href="#Page_220">220</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Smithfield Cloth, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_116">116</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Fanmakers' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_204">204</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Farriers' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_204">204</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Father Gerard, prisoner in Tower, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_63">63</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Feasts, City, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_192">192</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Feltmakers' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_204">204</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Fenchurch Street, ii., <a href="#Page_214">214</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Ferries, Thames, ii., <a href="#Page_23">23</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Fields, Goodman's, ii., <a href="#Page_38">38</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Finsbury, ii., <a href="#Page_43">43</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Fire, Great, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_179">179</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_215">215</a>; ii., <a href="#Page_73">73</a>, <a href="#Page_76">76</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— London rebuilt after Great, ii., <a href="#Page_80">80</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Fires at the Temple, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_144">144</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Frequency of, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_125">125</a></li> + +<li class="indx">First Bishop of London, Mellitus, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_16">16</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Carthusian house, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_87">87</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Introduction of Coffee, ii., <a href="#Page_135">135</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Prisoners sent to the Tower, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_50">50</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Fishmongers' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_195">195</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_197">197</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_198">198</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Hall, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_218">218</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— —— chairs in, ii., <a href="#Page_92">92</a></li> + +<li class="indx">FitzStephen's <i>Description of London</i>, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_38">38</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Flambard, Bishop of Durham, escape from the Tower of, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_39">39</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Fleet, Liberty of the, ii., <a href="#Page_222">222</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Prison, ii., <a href="#Page_222">222</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— River, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_149">149</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Fletcher, ii., <a href="#Page_168">168</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Fletchers' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_201">201</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_204">204</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Flogging of apprentices, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_124">124</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Floods at Whitehall, ii., <a href="#Page_57">57</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Florence, Friscobaldi of, ii., <a href="#Page_187">187</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Fludyer Street, ii., <a href="#Page_54">54</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Folkmote, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_23">23</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Ford across Thames, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_4">4</a></li> + +<li class="indx">"Foreigners," i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_123">123</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Foreigners in London, ii., <a href="#Page_26">26</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Former neglected condition of St. Bartholomew's Church, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_66">66</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Founder of Lincoln's Inn, Henry de Lacy, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_150">150</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Founders' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_204">204</a></li> + +<li class="indx">"Four Swans" Inn in Bishopsgate Street, ii., <a href="#Page_121">121</a>, <a href="#Page_122">122</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Fox Club, ii., <a href="#Page_104">104</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Framework Knitters' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_205">205</a></li> + +<li class="indx">France, Petty, ii., <a href="#Page_28">28</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Franklin, Benjamin, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_83">83</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Freedom of London, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_152">152</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— of the City, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_185">185</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Frequency of fires, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_125">125</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Friars, Augustine, ii., <a href="#Page_36">36</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Austin, ii., <a href="#Page_27">27</a>, <a href="#Page_217">217</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Black, ii., <a href="#Page_217">217</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Crutched, ii., <a href="#Page_217">217</a></li> + +<li class="indx"><i>Friars of London, Chronicle of the Grey</i>, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_109">109</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Friscobaldi of Florence, ii., <a href="#Page_187">187</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Fruiterers' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_205">205</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Furnival's Inn, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_167">167</a></li></ul> + + +<ul class="index"><li class="ifrst">Galleried Inns, ii., <a href="#Page_116">116</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Game of Mall, ii., <a href="#Page_64">64</a></li> + +<li class="indx">"Game of Swans," i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_204">204</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Garden, Bear, ii., <a href="#Page_47">47</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Covent, ii., <a href="#Page_52">52</a>, <a href="#Page_216">216</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Old Spring, ii., <a href="#Page_58">58</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Stairs, Paris, ii., <a href="#Page_44">44</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Temple, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_142">142</a></li> + +<li class="indx">"Garraway's" Coffee-house, ii., <a href="#Page_137">137</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Garrick Club, ii., <a href="#Page_107">107</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Gate, Bridge, ii., <a href="#Page_88">88</a>, <a href="#Page_90">90</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Traitors', ii., <a href="#Page_24">24</a>, <a href="#Page_90">90</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Gates of City, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_11">11</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Gaunt at Savoy Palace, John of, ii., <a href="#Page_3">3</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Geographical Society, Royal, ii., <a href="#Page_160">160</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Geological Society, ii., <a href="#Page_155">155</a></li> + +<li class="indx">"George" Inn, ii., <a href="#Page_117">117</a>, <a href="#Page_166">166</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Gerard prisoner in Tower, Father, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_63">63</a></li> + +<li class="indx">"Gerard's Hall" Inn, ii., <a href="#Page_132">132</a></li> + +<li class="indx">German Hanse Merchants, ii., <a href="#Page_187">187</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Gibbons's Statue of James II., Grinling, ii., <a href="#Page_60">60</a></li> + +<li class="indx"><i>Gilda Teutonicorum</i>, ii., <a href="#Page_27">27</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Girdlers' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_205">205</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Glasshouse Yard, ii., <a href="#Page_49">49</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Glass-making, ii., <a href="#Page_49">49</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Glass-sellers' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_206">206</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Glaziers' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_206">206</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Globe Theatre, ii., <a href="#Page_45">45</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Glovers' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_206">206</a></li> + +<li class="indx"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_231" id="Page_231">{231}</a></span>Glovers in Blackfriars, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_206">206</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Godalming, Charterhouse School moved to, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_104">104</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Gog and Magog, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_180">180</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Gold and Silver Wyre Drawers' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_206">206</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Goldsmith Building, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_146">146</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Oliver, ii., <a href="#Page_172">172</a>, <a href="#Page_176">176</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Goldsmiths' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_195">195</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_197">197</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Hall, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_219">219</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Row, ii., <a href="#Page_32">32</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Goodman's Fields, ii., <a href="#Page_38">38</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Gordon Riots, ii., <a href="#Page_221">221</a></li> + +<li class="indx">"Governance of London, the," i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_15">15</a></li> + +<li class="indx">"Grand Tour, the," ii., <a href="#Page_66">66</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Grasse Church, ii., <a href="#Page_214">214</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Gray born in Cornhill, ii., <a href="#Page_171">171</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Gray's Inn, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_161">161</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_162">162</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Great Fire, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_121">121</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_179">179</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_215">215</a>; ii., <a href="#Page_73">73</a>, <a href="#Page_76">76</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— —— a blessing, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_115">115</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— —— London rebuilt after, ii., <a href="#Page_80">80</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Plague, ii., <a href="#Page_73">73</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Tower Hill, scaffold on, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_64">64</a></li> + +<li class="indx">"Grecian," ii., <a href="#Page_200">200</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Coffee-house, ii., <a href="#Page_137">137</a></li> + +<li class="indx">"Green Dragon" Inn, in Bishopsgate Street, ii., <a href="#Page_121">121</a>, <a href="#Page_122">122</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Greenwich, Palace at, ii., <a href="#Page_25">25</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Gresham, residence of Sir Thomas, ii., <a href="#Page_37">37</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Sir Thomas, ii., <a href="#Page_219">219</a></li> + +<li class="indx"><i>Grey Friars of London, Chronicle of the</i>, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_109">109</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Grey Friars' monastery, ii., <a href="#Page_195">195</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Reginald de, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_161">161</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Griffin, prisoner in Tower keep, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_55">55</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Grocers' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_197">197</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Hall, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_179">179</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_218">218</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Guards' Club, ii., <a href="#Page_101">101</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Guild, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_22">22</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Guilda Aula Teutonicorum, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_227">227</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Guildhall, The, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_178">178</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_190">190</a>; ii., <a href="#Page_31">31</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Chapel, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_182">182</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Crypts, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_180">180</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Historic scenes in the, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_187">187</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Library, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_183">183</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— "Little Ease" at the, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_186">186</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— of the Steel-yard, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_230">230</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Portraits at the, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_184">184</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Windows in the, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_189">189</a></li> + +<li class="indx"><i>Gull's Horne-Book, The</i>, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_118">118</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Gundulf, architect of Tower, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_32">32</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_33">33</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Gunmakers' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_206">206</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Gunpowder manufactured in Tower, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_60">60</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Guy Fawkes, prison of, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_35">35</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Gwynne's house, Nell, ii., <a href="#Page_102">102</a></li></ul> + + +<ul class="index"><li class="ifrst">Haberdashers' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_199">199</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Hall, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_221">221</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Hale, Reforms of Archdeacon, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_103">103</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Half-timbered houses, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_113">113</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Hall, Crosby, a prison for Royalists, ii., <a href="#Page_191">191</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Blackwell, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_183">183</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Chair in Fishmongers', ii., <a href="#Page_92">92</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Clothworkers', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_222">222</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Common, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_186">186</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Crosby, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_123">123</a>; ii., <a href="#Page_37">37</a>, <a href="#Page_182">182</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Fishmongers', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_218">218</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Goldsmiths', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_219">219</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Grocers', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_179">179</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_218">218</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Haberdashers', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_221">221</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Inner Temple, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_139">139</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Ironmongers', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_222">222</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Mercers', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_218">218</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Merchant Taylors', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_179">179</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_219">219</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Middle Temple, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_143">143</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Richard, Duke of Gloucester, at Crosby, ii., <a href="#Page_190">190</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Salters', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_221">221</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Skinners', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_221">221</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Thomas More at Crosby, ii., <a href="#Page_190">190</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Vintners', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_222">222</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Westminster, ii., <a href="#Page_2">2</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Halls of Inns of Court, Plays in, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_143">143</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— of the Companies, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_217">217</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Hamburg, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_226">226</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Hanged, Three hundred Jews, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_109">109</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Hansa, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_225">225</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— brick building by the, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_229">229</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Hanseatic League, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_224">224</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Hanse Merchants, German, ii., <a href="#Page_27">27</a>, <a href="#Page_187">187</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Hanworth-on-Thames, Crosby Estate at, ii., <a href="#Page_186">186</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Harcourt Buildings, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_146">146</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Hare Court, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_145">145</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Haymarket, ii., <a href="#Page_53">53</a></li> + +<li class="indx">"Head, The Monk's," ii., <a href="#Page_58">58</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Heads on Bridge Gate, ii., <a href="#Page_90">90</a></li> + +<li class="indx"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_232" id="Page_232">{232}</a></span>Heart of the City, ii., <a href="#Page_217">217</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Henry III.'s building operations at the Tower, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_50">50</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— VIII.'s buildings, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_61">61</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Henslowe, Philip, ii., <a href="#Page_44">44</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Heraclius, Temple Church consecrated by, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_133">133</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Herber, the, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_122">122</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Herfleets' Inn, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_174">174</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Hermitage in the Tower, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_55">55</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Heroic Doctors, ii., <a href="#Page_74">74</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Herrick, ii., <a href="#Page_169">169</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Hill, St. Andrew's, ii., <a href="#Page_50">50</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Hinton, Somersetshire, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_87">87</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Historic Scenes in the Guildhall, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_187">187</a></li> + +<li class="indx">"Hobson's Choice," ii., <a href="#Page_121">121</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Holborn and the Inns of Court and Chancery, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_149">149-177</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Church of St. Andrew in, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_164">164</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Inns, ii., <a href="#Page_124">124</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Old Temple, in, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_153">153</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Origin of name, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_149">149</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Viaduct, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_149">149</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Holeburn, Manor of, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_150">150</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Holy Trinity, Priory of, ii., <a href="#Page_39">39</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Holywell, ii., <a href="#Page_42">42</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Hook, Theodore, in Cleveland Row, ii., <a href="#Page_181">181</a></li> + +<li class="indx"><i>Horne-Book, The Gull's</i>, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_118">118</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Horners' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_207">207</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Horse Races at Smithfield, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_132">132</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Horsham, Christ's Hospital removed to, ii., <a href="#Page_203">203</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Hospital, Bridewell, ii., <a href="#Page_49">49</a>, <a href="#Page_196">196</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Charterhouse, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_98">98</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Christ's, ii., <a href="#Page_35">35</a>, <a href="#Page_194">194</a>, <a href="#Page_196">196</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— —— removed to Horsham, ii., <a href="#Page_203">203</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— for lepers, ii., <a href="#Page_7">7</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Pictures at Christ's, ii., <a href="#Page_200">200</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— St. Bartholomew's, ii., <a href="#Page_35">35</a>, <a href="#Page_196">196</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— St. Thomas's, ii., <a href="#Page_196">196</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Samuel Pepys and Christ's, ii., <a href="#Page_198">198</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Houghton, John, Prior of Charterhouse in 1531, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_91">91</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Houndsditch, ii., <a href="#Page_39">39</a></li> + +<li class="indx">House, Arundel, ii., <a href="#Page_216">216</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Banqueting, Whitehall, ii., <a href="#Page_14">14</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Berkeley, ii., <a href="#Page_53">53</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Burlington, ii., <a href="#Page_53">53</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Clarendon, ii., <a href="#Page_53">53</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Custom, ii., <a href="#Page_21">21</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Devonshire, ii., <a href="#Page_53">53</a></li> + +<li class="indx">"House Estates, Bridge," ii., <a href="#Page_87">87</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— First Carthusian, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_87">87</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Howard, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_98">98</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— in Blackfriars, Shakespeare's, ii., <a href="#Page_50">50</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Marlborough, ii., <a href="#Page_12">12</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Marquis of Winchester's, ii., <a href="#Page_36">36</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Nell Gwynne's, ii., <a href="#Page_102">102</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— "Nonesuch," ii., <a href="#Page_24">24</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Salisbury, ii., <a href="#Page_216">216</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Sessions, without Newgate, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_164">164</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Southampton, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_154">154</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— twelfth century, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_112">112</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Winchester, ii., <a href="#Page_46">46</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— York, ii., <a href="#Page_13">13</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Houses, Anglo-Saxon, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_114">114</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— and shops on old London Bridge, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_112">112</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Artizans', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_125">125</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Bishops', ii., <a href="#Page_216">216</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— half-timbered, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_113">113</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— merchants', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_123">123</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— near Temple, wooden, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_116">116</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— of nobility, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_122">122</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— wooden, Cripplegate, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_115">115</a></li> + +<li class="indx">"Humphrey, to dine with Duke," i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_117">117</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Hungerford Stairs, Dickens' days in, ii., <a href="#Page_179">179</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Hunting, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_132">132</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Hurlingham Club, ii., <a href="#Page_110">110</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Hurriers, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_199">199</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Hyde Park, ii., <a href="#Page_66">66</a>, <a href="#Page_67">67</a></li></ul> + + +<ul class="index"><li class="ifrst">Imprisoned in Tower, Jews, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_58">58</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Imprisonment of Knights Templars, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_59">59</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Industries encouraged by Queen Elizabeth, ii., <a href="#Page_49">49</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Influence on Architecture, Crusaders', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_134">134</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Inner Temple, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_141">141</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— and Middle Temples, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_161">161</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Temple Hall, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_139">139</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Inn, Henry de Lacy, founder of Lincoln's, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_150">150</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Bacon's i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_174">174</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Barnard's, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_168">168</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Clement's, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_175">175</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Clifford's, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_175">175</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Cursitors', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_174">174</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Davy's, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_155">155</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_165">165</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_172">172</a></li> + +<li class="indx"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_233" id="Page_233">{233}</a></span>—— Earl of Warwick, in Warwick Lane, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_123">123</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Furnival's, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_167">167</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Gray's, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_161">161</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_162">162</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Herfleet's, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_174">174</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Kidderminster, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_174">174</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Lincoln's, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_155">155</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_157">157</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_160">160</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_166">166</a>; ii., <a href="#Page_42">42</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Lyon's, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_167">167</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_176">176</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— New, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_173">173</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Scrope's, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_176">176</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Six Clerks, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_174">174</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Staple, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_116">116</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_153">153</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_160">160</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_170">170</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_171">171</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Innholders' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_207">207</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Inns of Chancery, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_167">167</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— of Court and Inns of Chancery, difference between, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_161">161</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— —— Plays in halls of, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_143">143</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— —— and Chancery, Holborn and the, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_149">149</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_177">177</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— at Southwark, ii., <a href="#Page_114">114</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— and Taverns, old, ii., <a href="#Page_46">46</a>, <a href="#Page_70">70</a>, <a href="#Page_113">113</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Angel, Wych Street, ii., <a href="#Page_131">131</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Axe, Aldermanbury, ii., <a href="#Page_131">131</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Bell, Warwick Lane, ii., <a href="#Page_131">131</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Bell and Crown, Holborn, ii., <a href="#Page_125">125</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Belle, ii., <a href="#Page_114">114</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Blossoms, ii., <a href="#Page_131">131</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Blue Boar, ii., <a href="#Page_118">118</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Boars' Head, ii., <a href="#Page_168">168</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Bolt-in-Tun, ii., <a href="#Page_127">127</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Bull, ii., <a href="#Page_119">119</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— —— Bishopsgate Street, ii., <a href="#Page_121">121</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— —— and Mouth, ii., <a href="#Page_129">129</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Catherine Wheel, ii., <a href="#Page_123">123</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— "Cheshire Cheese," ii., <a href="#Page_173">173</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Cross Keys, Bishopsgate Street, ii., <a href="#Page_120">120</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Crown, Holborn, ii., <a href="#Page_126">126</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Crowned or Cross Keys, ii., <a href="#Page_117">117</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— "Devil," ii., <a href="#Page_173">173</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Dolphin, ii., <a href="#Page_123">123</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Four Swans, Bishopsgate Street, ii., <a href="#Page_121">121</a>, <a href="#Page_122">122</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Galleried, ii., <a href="#Page_116">116</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— George, ii., <a href="#Page_117">117</a>, <a href="#Page_166">166</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Gerard's Hall, ii., <a href="#Page_132">132</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Green Dragon, Bishopsgate Street, ii., <a href="#Page_121">121</a>, <a href="#Page_122">122</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Holborn, ii., <a href="#Page_124">124</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— in King Street, Westminster, ii., <a href="#Page_70">70</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— King's Head, ii., <a href="#Page_116">116</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— "Mitre," ii., <a href="#Page_173">173</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Nag's Head, Whitcomb Street, ii., <a href="#Page_132">132</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Oxford Arms, ii., <a href="#Page_130">130</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Queen's Head, ii., <a href="#Page_116">116</a>, <a href="#Page_117">117</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— St. George's, ii., <a href="#Page_117">117</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Saracen's Head, ii., <a href="#Page_119">119</a>, <a href="#Page_123">123</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Spread Eagle, ii., <a href="#Page_120">120</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Swan with Two Necks, ii., <a href="#Page_133">133</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Tabard, ii., <a href="#Page_114">114</a>, <a href="#Page_121">121</a>, <a href="#Page_166">166</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Three Nuns, ii., <a href="#Page_118">118</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— "Two Swan," ii., <a href="#Page_122">122</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— White Hart, ii., <a href="#Page_115">115</a>, <a href="#Page_123">123</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— White Horse, ii., <a href="#Page_127">127</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Insanitary condition of Old London, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_115">115</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Installation of the Lord Mayor, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_186">186</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Institute, Archæological, ii., <a href="#Page_164">164</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Anthropological, ii., <a href="#Page_163">163</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Introduction of Coffee, first, ii., <a href="#Page_135">135</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Invasion, Danish, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_19">19</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Ireland Yard, ii., <a href="#Page_50">50</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Ironmongers' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_199">199</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Hall, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_222">222</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Islington, ii., <a href="#Page_53">53</a></li></ul> + + +<ul class="index"><li class="ifrst">Jacobite Coffee-houses, ii., <a href="#Page_140">140</a></li> + +<li class="indx">James I. and the Temple, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_144">144</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— II., Grinling Gibbons's statue of, ii., <a href="#Page_60">60</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Jeffreys, Judge, and Temple Church organ, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_145">145</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Jewry Lane, Poor, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_108">108</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Leicester, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_108">108</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Old, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_108">108</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Street, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_108">108</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Jews, ii., <a href="#Page_215">215</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Conversion of, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_108">108</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— disabilities of, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_107">107</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— expulsion of, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_110">110</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Imprisoned in Tower, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_58">58</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— in London, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_106">106</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Money-lending by, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_107">107</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— plundered, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_122">122</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— prejudice against, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_109">109</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— three hundred hanged, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_109">109</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Johnson, Dr., in Fleet Street, ii., <a href="#Page_172">172</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Johnson's Buildings, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_146">146</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Joiners' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_207">207</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Jomsborg, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_225">225</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Jones, Inigo, ii., <a href="#Page_14">14</a>, <a href="#Page_52">52</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Jonson, Ben, ii., <a href="#Page_168">168</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Jousts at Smithfield, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_130">130</a></li> + +<li class="indx"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_234" id="Page_234">{234}</a></span>Junior United Service Club, ii., <a href="#Page_102">102</a></li></ul> + + +<ul class="index"><li class="ifrst">Keep of Tower of London compared with Colchester keep, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_33">33</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Kensington Palace, ii., <a href="#Page_16">16</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Kidderminster Inn, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_174">174</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Killigrew, ii., <a href="#Page_69">69</a></li> + +<li class="indx">King Street, Westminster, Inns in, ii., <a href="#Page_70">70</a></li> + +<li class="indx">King's Bench Walk, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_144">144</a></li> + +<li class="indx">"King's Head" Inn, ii., <a href="#Page_116">116</a></li> + +<li class="indx">"King's House," i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_61">61</a>; ii., <a href="#Page_67">67</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Kings of Essex, capital of, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_12">12</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Kit Cat Club, ii., <a href="#Page_177">177</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Knights Hospitallers, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_140">140</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Templars, imprisonment, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_59">59</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Kontors of the League, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_226">226</a></li></ul> + + +<ul class="index"><li class="ifrst">La Belle Sauvage Yard, ii., <a href="#Page_127">127</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Labelye, builder of Westminster Bridge, ii., <a href="#Page_94">94</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Lacy, Henry de, founder of Lincoln's Inn, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_150">150</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Lady Chapel and printing shop, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_82">82</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_83">83</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Lamb Building, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_147">147</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Charles, ii., <a href="#Page_175">175</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Lambeth Palace, ii., <a href="#Page_17">17</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Lane, Ave Mary, ii., <a href="#Page_215">215</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Chancery, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_133">133</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_153">153</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Inn of Earl of Warwick in Warwick, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_123">123</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Mincing, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_8">8</a>; ii., <a href="#Page_27">27</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— "Poor Jewry," i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_108">108</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Sermon, ii., <a href="#Page_214">214</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Shoe, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_150">150</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Sopars', ii., <a href="#Page_30">30</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Lawyers in the Temple, settlement of, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_140">140</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Leadenhall, ii., <a href="#Page_27">27</a>, <a href="#Page_40">40</a>, <a href="#Page_214">214</a></li> + +<li class="indx">League, The Hanseatic, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_224">224</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Kontors of the, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_226">226</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Learned Societies of London, ii., <a href="#Page_150">150</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Leather-sellers' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_200">200</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_207">207</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Lecture rooms, Coffee-houses as, ii., <a href="#Page_146">146</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Leicester Jewry, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_108">108</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Square, ii., <a href="#Page_216">216</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Lepers, Hospital for, ii., <a href="#Page_7">7</a></li> + +<li class="indx"><i>Liber Albus</i>, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_122">122</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Liberty of the Fleet, ii., <a href="#Page_222">222</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Library, Guildhall, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_183">183</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Life of the City, Church, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_127">127</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Street, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_127">127</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Lincoln's Inn, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_155">155</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_157">157</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_160">160</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_161">161</a>; ii., <a href="#Page_42">42</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Henry de Lacy, founder of, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_150">150</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Literary associations of Covent Garden, ii., <a href="#Page_178">178</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— —— Pall Mall, ii., <a href="#Page_179">179</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— —— St. James' Street, ii., <a href="#Page_180">180</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— —— The Temple, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_146">146</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Club, ii., <a href="#Page_180">180</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Shrines of Old London, ii., <a href="#Page_166">166</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Literature, Royal Society of, ii., <a href="#Page_156">156</a></li> + +<li class="indx">"Little Conduit, The," ii., <a href="#Page_32">32</a></li> + +<li class="indx">"Little Ease," i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_34">34</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_58">58</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— —— at the Guildhall, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_186">186</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Liveries of Citizens, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_192">192</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Lives of the People, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_121">121</a></li> + +<li class="indx">"Lloyd's" Coffee-house, ii., <a href="#Page_139">139</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Locke, John, ii., <a href="#Page_171">171</a></li> + +<li class="indx">"Lock, Rock," ii., <a href="#Page_88">88</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Lombard Street, ii., <a href="#Page_27">27</a>, <a href="#Page_214">214</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— —— Pope born in, ii., <a href="#Page_171">171</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Lombardy merchants, ii., <a href="#Page_26">26</a></li> + +<li class="indx"><i>London's Armory</i>, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_240">240</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Lord Mayor, Installation of the, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_186">186</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Loriners' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_208">208</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Lothbury, ii., <a href="#Page_214">214</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Lovel, Sir Thomas, ii., <a href="#Page_42">42</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Lübeck, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_226">226</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Ludgate, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_11">11</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_24">24</a>; ii., <a href="#Page_213">213</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Lydgate's <i>London's Lickpenny</i>, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_125">125</a></li> + +<li class="indx"><i>Lynn, dun</i>, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_2">2</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Lyon's Inn, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_167">167</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_176">176</a></li></ul> + + +<ul class="index"><li class="ifrst">Macaulay's picture of London, ii., <a href="#Page_55">55</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Mall, the game of, ii., <a href="#Page_63">63</a>, <a href="#Page_64">64</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Malmesbury, Abbot of, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_159">159</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Mandeville, Geoffrey de, Constable of the Tower, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_41">41</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Manners and modes in Coffee-houses, ii., <a href="#Page_148">148</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Manny, Sir Walter de, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_89">89</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Manor of Holeburn, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_150">150</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Mansion, Sir Paul Pindar's, ii., <a href="#Page_123">123</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Manufacture of <i>gunpowder</i> in Tower, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_60">60</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Mariners, St. Clement patron saint of, ii., <a href="#Page_209">209</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Market, Clare, ii., <a href="#Page_216">216</a></li> + +<li class="indx"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_235" id="Page_235">{235}</a></span>Markets of Eastcheap and Westcheap, ii., <a href="#Page_213">213</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Marlborough Club, ii., <a href="#Page_110">110</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— House, ii., <a href="#Page_12">12</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Marriage of Chaucer, ii., <a href="#Page_4">4</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Marylebone Cricket Club, ii., <a href="#Page_110">110</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Masons' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_208">208</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Masques, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_144">144</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Massacre of the Danes, ii., <a href="#Page_208">208</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Massinger, Philip, ii., <a href="#Page_168">168</a>, <a href="#Page_169">169</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Mathematical School, Royal, ii., <a href="#Page_198">198</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Mayor, Installation of the Lord, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_186">186</a></li> + +<li class="indx">May-poles, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_132">132</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Meat Market, Shambles or, ii., <a href="#Page_35">35</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Mediæval London, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_106">106</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Mellitus, first Bishop of London, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_16">16</a></li> + +<li class="indx"><i>Memorials of Brooks's</i>, ii., <a href="#Page_103">103</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Menagerie at the Tower, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_52">52</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Mercers' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_197">197</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Hall, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_218">218</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Merchant Taylors' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_198">198</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— —— Hall, <a href="#Page_1">1</a>., <a href="#Page_179">179</a>, <a href="#Page_219">219</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— —— School, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_94">94</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_104">104</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Merchants, German Hanse, ii., <a href="#Page_187">187</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— of Lombardy, ii., <a href="#Page_26">26</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Hanse, ii., <a href="#Page_27">27</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Merchants' houses, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_123">123</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Mermaid Tavern, ii., <a href="#Page_30">30</a>, <a href="#Page_168">168</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Middle Temple, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_141">141</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_165">165</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— —— Hall, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_143">143</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Temples, Inner and, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_161">161</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Middlesex granted to the citizens, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_23">23</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Midsummer Eve, ii., <a href="#Page_40">40</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Millianers, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_199">199</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Milton, John, born in Bread Street, ii., <a href="#Page_170">170</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Mincing Lane, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_8">8</a>; ii., <a href="#Page_27">27</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Minories, ii., <a href="#Page_38">38</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Mint, Tower, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_64">64</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Mitre Court Buildings, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_147">147</a></li> + +<li class="indx">"Mitre" Inn, ii., <a href="#Page_173">173</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Mob, Tower surprised by, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_53">53</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Modern London founded after the Restoration, ii., <a href="#Page_53">53</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Monastery, destruction of Charterhouse, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_93">93</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Grey Friars, ii., <a href="#Page_195">195</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— in Shoe Lane, Dominicans', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_150">150</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Money-lending by Jews, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_107">107</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Monk, Duke of Albemarle, ii., <a href="#Page_75">75</a></li> + +<li class="indx">"Monk's Head, The," ii., <a href="#Page_58">58</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Monks tortured and executed, i.,<a href="#Page_92">92</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Montagu, Lady Mary Wortley, ii., <a href="#Page_177">177</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Monument of Sir John Beauchamp, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_118">118</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Monuments in the Temple, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_139">139</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— destruction of, ii., <a href="#Page_36">36</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Moorgate, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_25">25</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Moorfields, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_122">122</a></li> + +<li class="indx">More, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_86">86</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Thomas, at Crosby Hall, ii., <a href="#Page_190">190</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Mosaic pavements, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_12">12</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Museums at Coffee-houses, ii., <a href="#Page_146">146</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Musicians' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_208">208</a></li></ul> + + +<ul class="index"><li class="ifrst">"Nag's Head" Inn, Whitcomb Street, ii., <a href="#Page_132">132</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Name Holborn, Origin of the, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_149">149</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Names of Streets, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_123">123</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Narrow and crooked streets, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_112">112</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— and unsavoury streets, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_125">125</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— escape of Richard III., ii., <a href="#Page_189">189</a></li> + +<li class="indx">National Club, ii., <a href="#Page_109">109</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Needlemakers' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_208">208</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Newgate, ii., <a href="#Page_26">26</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Sessions House without, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_164">164</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Newington, playhouse at, ii., <a href="#Page_44">44</a></li> + +<li class="indx">New Inn, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_173">173</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Temple, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_163">163</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Nobility, houses of, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_122">122</a></li> + +<li class="indx">"Nonesuch House," ii., <a href="#Page_24">24</a>, <a href="#Page_91">91</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Norfolk, Duke of, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_96">96</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Norman London, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_21">21</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_26">26</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Well, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_62">62</a></li> + +<li class="indx">North, Sir Edward, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_95">95</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Northburgh, Michael de, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_89">89</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Northumberland Avenue, ii., <a href="#Page_215">215</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Court, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_154">154</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Norway, St. Olaf patron saint of, ii., <a href="#Page_209">209</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Number of Churches in London, ii., <a href="#Page_23">23</a></li></ul> + + +<ul class="index"><li class="ifrst">Office, Rolls, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_153">153</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Old Bailey, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_25">25</a>; ii., <a href="#Page_212">212</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Bridges, ii., <a href="#Page_82">82</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Change, ii., <a href="#Page_32">32</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Exchange, ii., <a href="#Page_214">214</a></li> + +<li class="indx"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_236" id="Page_236">{236}</a></span>—— Inns, ii., <a href="#Page_46">46</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— —— in Westminster, ii., <a href="#Page_70">70</a>, <a href="#Page_71">71</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Jewry, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_108">108</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— London Bridge, houses and shops on, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_112">112</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Prisons, ii., <a href="#Page_221">221</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— St. Paul's, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_116">116</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Spring Garden, ii., <a href="#Page_58">58</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Temple in Holborn, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_153">153</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Theatres, ii., <a href="#Page_167">167</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— time punishments, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_130">130</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Order, Carthusian, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_86">86</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Orderic, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_30">30</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_31">31</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Ordinance of the Staple, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_171">171</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Organ, Temple Church, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_145">145</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Oriental Club, ii., <a href="#Page_106">106</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Origin of the name Holborn, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_149">149</a></li> + +<li class="indx">"Oxford Arms" Inn, ii., <a href="#Page_130">130</a></li></ul> + + +<ul class="index"><li class="ifrst">Pageant of London, ii., <a href="#Page_193">193</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— of the Streets, ii., <a href="#Page_211">211</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Pageants, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_192">192</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— on the Thames, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_194">194</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Painters' or Painter-stainers' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_208">208</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Palace, Bridewell, ii., <a href="#Page_48">48</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Buckingham, ii., <a href="#Page_15">15</a>, <a href="#Page_16">16</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Cardinal Wolsey's, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_116">116</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Charterhouse, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_94">94</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Greenwich, ii., <a href="#Page_25">25</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Lambeth, ii., <a href="#Page_17">17</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— St. James's, ii., <a href="#Page_7">7</a>, <a href="#Page_61">61</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Savoy, ii., <a href="#Page_3">3</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Westminster, ii., <a href="#Page_1">1</a>, <a href="#Page_2">2</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Whitefriars, ii., <a href="#Page_60">60</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Whitehall, ii., <a href="#Page_9">9</a>, <a href="#Page_11">11</a>, <a href="#Page_13">13</a>, <a href="#Page_56">56</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Palaces, City of, ii., <a href="#Page_215">215</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— of London, ii., <a href="#Page_1">1</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Pall Mall, ii., <a href="#Page_63">63</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— —— Literary Associations of, ii., <a href="#Page_179">179</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Panton Street, ii., <a href="#Page_54">54</a></li> + +<li class="indx">"Papye," ii., <a href="#Page_37">37</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Pardon Churchyard and Chapel, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_88">88</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Paris Garden Stairs, ii., <a href="#Page_44">44</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Parish Clerks' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_129">129</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Park, Hyde, ii., <a href="#Page_66">66</a>, <a href="#Page_67">67</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— St. James's, ii., <a href="#Page_63">63</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Passage, Subterranean, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_62">62</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Paternoster Row, ii., <a href="#Page_215">215</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Patron Saint of Norway, St. Olaf, ii., <a href="#Page_209">209</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— —— of Mariners, ii., <a href="#Page_209">209</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Saints of City Companies, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_196">196</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Pattenmakers' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_209">209</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Paul's Cathedral, St., i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_16">16</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_24">24</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Cross, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_119">119</a>; ii., <a href="#Page_34">34</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— —— Demolition of, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_120">120</a></li> + +<li class="indx">"Paul's School," ii., <a href="#Page_34">34</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Paul's Walk, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_117">117</a>; ii., <a href="#Page_33">33</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Pavements, Mosaic, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_12">12</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Penn, Sir William, ii., <a href="#Page_77">77</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Penthouse, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_125">125</a></li> + +<li class="indx">People, Lives of the, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_121">121</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Pepys, Samuel, ii., <a href="#Page_54">54</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— —— and Christ's Hospital, ii., <a href="#Page_198">198</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— as a dramatic critic, ii., <a href="#Page_70">70</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— as a playgoer, ii., <a href="#Page_67">67</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Pepys's London, ii., <a href="#Page_52">52</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Peter of Colechurch, ii., <a href="#Page_85">85</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Petty France, ii., <a href="#Page_28">28</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Pewterers' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_209">209</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Piccadilly, ii., <a href="#Page_53">53</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Picture of London, Macaulay's, ii., <a href="#Page_55">55</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Pictures at Christ's Hospital, ii., <a href="#Page_200">200</a></li> + +<li class="indx">"Piggin," ii., <a href="#Page_200">200</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Pike Ponds, ii., <a href="#Page_47">47</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Pillory, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_130">130</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Pindar's mansion, Sir Paul, ii., <a href="#Page_123">123</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Place, Duke's, ii., <a href="#Page_40">40</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Plague, Great, ii., <a href="#Page_73">73</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Plaisterers' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_209">209</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Plan of Charterhouse, fifteenth century, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_94">94</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Plantation, Ulster, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_214">214</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Playhouse at Newington, ii., <a href="#Page_44">44</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— near Blackfriars, ii., <a href="#Page_48">48</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— the Rose, ii., <a href="#Page_45">45</a>, <a href="#Page_47">47</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Swan, ii., <a href="#Page_47">47</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Yard, ii., <a href="#Page_50">50</a></li> + +<li class="indx">"Playhouses, Common," ii., <a href="#Page_43">43</a>, <a href="#Page_44">44</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Playing-card Makers' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_209">209</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Plays, ii., <a href="#Page_43">43</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— in Churches, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_129">129</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— in Halls of Inns of Court, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_143">143</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Religious, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_129">129</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Plowden, Edmund, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_143">143</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_145">145</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Plumbers' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_209">209</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Plundered Jews, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_122">122</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Poet-painter, William Blake, The, ii., <a href="#Page_176">176</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Pomerium, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_108">108</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Ponds, Pike, ii., <a href="#Page_47">47</a></li> + +<li class="indx"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_237" id="Page_237">{237}</a></span>"Poor Jewry Lane," i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_108">108</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Pope born in Lombard Street, ii., <a href="#Page_171">171</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Port of London, ii., <a href="#Page_21">21</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Portraits at the Guildhall, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_184">184</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Portreeve, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_22">22</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_23">23</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Portugal Row, Theatre in, ii., <a href="#Page_68">68</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Pottery, Roman, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_5">5</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Poulters' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_210">210</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Poultry, The, ii., <a href="#Page_30">30</a>, <a href="#Page_214">214</a></li> + +<li class="indx">"Pound sterling," i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_232">232</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Prejudice against Jews, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_109">109</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Princes murdered in the Tower, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_36">36</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Printing-house, Richardson's, ii., <a href="#Page_172">172</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Printing-shop, Lady Chapel and, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_82">82</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_83">83</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Prior, John Walford, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_72">72</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— of Charterhouse in 1531, John Houghton, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_91">91</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— of St. Bartholomew, William Bolton, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_76">76</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Priory of Holy Trinity, ii., <a href="#Page_39">39</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— of St. Mary Overie, ii., <a href="#Page_86">86</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Prison, Abbot of Westminster and Monks in, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_59">59</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Fleet, ii., <a href="#Page_222">222</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— for Royalists, Crosby a, ii., <a href="#Page_191">191</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— of Guy Fawkes, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_35">35</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— of Ranulph Flambard, Bishop of Durham, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_39">39</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— of Sir Walter Raleigh, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_35">35</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Subterranean, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_62">62</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Prisoner in St. James's Palace, Charles I. a., ii., <a href="#Page_9">9</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Prisoners in Tower, Scotch, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_59">59</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Royal, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_60">60</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— sent to the Tower, First, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_50">50</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Prisons, Old, ii., <a href="#Page_221">221</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Proceedings, <i>quo warranto</i>, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_216">216</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Projecting storeys of houses, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_114">114</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Promotion of Trade by City Companies, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_197">197</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Puinctel, William, Constable of the Tower, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_45">45</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Punishments, Old-time, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_130">130</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— School, ii., <a href="#Page_202">202</a></li> + +<li class="indx">"Purgatory," St. Bartholomew, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_78">78</a></li></ul> + + +<ul class="index"><li class="ifrst">Quack medicines sold at Coffee-houses, ii., <a href="#Page_144">144</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Queenhithe, ii., <a href="#Page_21">21</a></li> + +<li class="indx">"Queen's Head" Inn, ii., <a href="#Page_116">116</a>, <a href="#Page_117">117</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Quintain, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_132">132</a></li> + +<li class="indx"><i>Quo warranto</i> proceedings, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_216">216</a></li></ul> + + +<ul class="index"><li class="ifrst">Races at Smithfield, Horse, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_132">132</a></li> + +<li class="indx">"Rag and Famish," ii., <a href="#Page_103">103</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Rahere, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_67">67</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Rahere's vision, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_67">67</a></li> + +<li class="indx">"Rainbow" in Fleet Street, ii., <a href="#Page_135">135</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Raleigh, Prison of Sir Walter, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_35">35</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Ranelagh, Vauxhall and, ii., <a href="#Page_222">222</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Rawlinson, Daniel, a loyal innkeeper, ii., <a href="#Page_71">71</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Rebuilt after great fire, London, ii., <a href="#Page_80">80</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Refectory, Charterhouse, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_94">94</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Reform Club, ii., <a href="#Page_108">108</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Reforms of Archdeacon Hale, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_103">103</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Relics in the Temple, Treasures and, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_138">138</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Religion, City Companies, their charity and, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_195">195</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Religious plays, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_129">129</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— services of the Corporation, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_183">183</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Renovations of the Tower, Wren's, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_35">35</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Requests, Court of, ii., <a href="#Page_2">2</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Residence of Sir Thomas Gresham, ii., <a href="#Page_37">37</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Restoration of Charles II., Evelyn's description of, ii., <a href="#Page_55">55</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— of St. Bartholomew, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_81">81</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_84">84</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Modern London founded after the, ii., <a href="#Page_53">53</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Rich, Sir Richard, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_78">78</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Richard, Duke of Gloucester, at Crosby Hall, ii., <a href="#Page_190">190</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— I.'s enlargement of the Tower, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_44">44</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— III., Narrow escape of, ii., <a href="#Page_189">189</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Richardson's printing-house, ii., <a href="#Page_172">172</a></li> + +<li class="indx">"Ridings," i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_124">124</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Riots, London, ii., <a href="#Page_221">221</a></li> + +<li class="indx">"Rock Lock," ii., <a href="#Page_88">88</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Rolls Office, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_153">153</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Roman basilica, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_7">7</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— bath, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_7">7</a></li> + +<li class="indx"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_238" id="Page_238">{238}</a></span>—— London, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_6">6-12</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— —— Bridge, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_10">10</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— pottery, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_5">5</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— remains, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_28">28</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— wall, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_11">11</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Rose playhouse, The, ii., <a href="#Page_45">45</a>, <a href="#Page_47">47</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Row, Cooks', ii., <a href="#Page_213">213</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Goldsmiths', ii., <a href="#Page_32">32</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Paternoster, ii., <a href="#Page_215">215</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Royal Asiatic Society, ii., <a href="#Page_158">158</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Chapel, at St. James's Palace, ii., <a href="#Page_12">12</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Exchange, ii., <a href="#Page_28">28</a>, <a href="#Page_217">217</a>, <a href="#Page_218">218</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Geographical Society, ii., <a href="#Page_160">160</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Institution, ii., <a href="#Page_154">154</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Mathematical School, ii., <a href="#Page_198">198</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Prisoners, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_60">60</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Society, ii., <a href="#Page_72">72</a>, <a href="#Page_150">150</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Society of Literature, ii., <a href="#Page_156">156</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Royalists, Crosby a prison for, ii., <a href="#Page_191">191</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Rugge's <i>Diurnal</i>, ii., <a href="#Page_56">56</a></li> + +<li class="indx">"Rummer" in Charing Cross, The, ii., <a href="#Page_179">179</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Russell Street, ii., <a href="#Page_178">178</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Rutland Place, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_96">96</a></li></ul> + + +<ul class="index"><li class="ifrst">Sackville, Thomas, first Earl of Dorset, ii., <a href="#Page_171">171</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Saddlers' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_200">200</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_210">210</a></li> + +<li class="indx">St. Andrew, Holborn, Church of, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_164">164</a>; ii., <a href="#Page_207">207</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— in the Wardrobe, Church of, ii., <a href="#Page_50">50</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Undershaft, ii., <a href="#Page_37">37</a>, <a href="#Page_204">204</a></li> + +<li class="indx">St. Andrew's Hill, ii., <a href="#Page_50">50</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Holborn, ii., <a href="#Page_207">207</a></li> + +<li class="indx">St. Ann's Chapel, Crypt of, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_139">139</a></li> + +<li class="indx">St. Bartholomew the Great, Smithfield, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_66">66</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Restoration of, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_81">81</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_84">84</a></li> + +<li class="indx">St. Bartholomew's Hospital, ii., <a href="#Page_35">35</a>, <a href="#Page_196">196</a></li> + +<li class="indx">St. Bénezet, ii., <a href="#Page_85">85</a></li> + +<li class="indx">St. Bride, Church of, ii., <a href="#Page_6">6</a></li> + +<li class="indx">St. Bruno, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_86">86</a></li> + +<li class="indx">St. Buttolph, Church of, ii., <a href="#Page_38">38</a></li> + +<li class="indx">St. Catherine Cree, ii., <a href="#Page_204">204</a></li> + +<li class="indx">St. Cedd, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_16">16</a></li> + +<li class="indx">St. Clement Danes, ii., <a href="#Page_208">208</a></li> + +<li class="indx">St. Clement, patron saint of mariners, ii., <a href="#Page_209">209</a></li> + +<li class="indx">St. Dunstan's, Stepney, ii., <a href="#Page_204">204</a></li> + +<li class="indx">St. Ethelreda's, Ely Place, ii., <a href="#Page_204">204</a></li> + +<li class="indx">St. George's Inn, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_171">171</a></li> + +<li class="indx">St. Giles', Cripplegate, ii., <a href="#Page_204">204</a></li> + +<li class="indx">St. Helen, Church of, ii., <a href="#Page_41">41</a>, <a href="#Page_184">184</a></li> + +<li class="indx">"St. James's," Addison at the, ii., <a href="#Page_180">180</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Coffee-house, ii., <a href="#Page_137">137</a>, <a href="#Page_141">141</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Palace, ii., <a href="#Page_7">7</a>, <a href="#Page_61">61</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Park, ii., <a href="#Page_63">63</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Square, ii., <a href="#Page_53">53</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Street, Literary associations of, ii., <a href="#Page_180">180</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Swift at the, ii., <a href="#Page_180">180</a></li> + +<li class="indx">St. John, Chapel of, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_36">36</a></li> + +<li class="indx">St. Leonard's Church, ii., <a href="#Page_42">42</a></li> + +<li class="indx">St. Margaret's, Lothbury, Screen in, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_230">230</a></li> + +<li class="indx">St. Martin's le Grand, ii., <a href="#Page_36">36</a></li> + +<li class="indx">St. Mary, Aldermanbury, ii., <a href="#Page_31">31</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Axe, ii., <a href="#Page_37">37</a></li> + +<li class="indx">St. Mary-le-Bow, Church of, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_24">24</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Cheapside, ii., <a href="#Page_210">210</a></li> + +<li class="indx">St. Mary Overie, ii., <a href="#Page_46">46</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— —— Priory, ii., <a href="#Page_86">86</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Woolchurch, ii., <a href="#Page_214">214</a></li> + +<li class="indx">St. Michael-le-Querne, Church of, ii., <a href="#Page_32">32</a></li> + +<li class="indx">St. Olaf, patron saint of Norway, ii., <a href="#Page_209">209</a></li> + +<li class="indx">St. Olave's, Hart Street, ii., <a href="#Page_205">205</a></li> + +<li class="indx">St. Paul's Cathedral, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_16">16</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_24">24</a>; ii., <a href="#Page_23">23</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Camden's description of, ii., <a href="#Page_33">33</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Coffee-house, ii., <a href="#Page_139">139</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Old, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_116">116</a></li> + +<li class="indx">St. Peter ad Vincula, Chapel of, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_42">42</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_49">49</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_57">57</a></li> + +<li class="indx">St. Sepulchre's, near Newgate, ii., <a href="#Page_205">205</a></li> + +<li class="indx">St. Thomas of the Bridge, ii., <a href="#Page_24">24</a></li> + +<li class="indx">St. Thomas's Hospital, ii., <a href="#Page_196">196</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Saints of City Companies, Patron, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_196">196</a></li> + +<li class="indx">"Saladin Tithe," i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_134">134</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Sales at Coffee-houses, ii., <a href="#Page_146">146</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Salisbury House, ii., <a href="#Page_216">216</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Salters' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_199">199</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Hall, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_221">221</a></li> + +<li class="indx">"Saracen's Head" Inn, ii., <a href="#Page_119">119</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— —— on Snow Hill, ii., <a href="#Page_123">123</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Savoy Chapel, ii., <a href="#Page_4">4</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Conference, ii., <a href="#Page_5">5</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Palace of the, ii., <a href="#Page_3">3</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— —— pillaged by Wat Tyler, ii., <a href="#Page_4">4</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Saxon London, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_12">12-21</a></li> + +<li class="indx"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_239" id="Page_239">{239}</a></span>Scaffold on Great Tower Hill, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_64">64</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Scenes in the Guildhall, Historic, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_187">187</a></li> + +<li class="indx">School, Charterhouse, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_102">102</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— —— moved to Godalming, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_104">104</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Merchant Taylors', i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_94">94</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_104">104</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Paul's, ii., <a href="#Page_34">34</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Punishments, ii., <a href="#Page_202">202</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Royal Mathematical, ii., <a href="#Page_198">198</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Schoolmaster, Ejection of Charterhouse, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_103">103</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Science, British Association for the Advancement of, ii., <a href="#Page_158">158</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Scotch prisoners in Tower, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_59">59</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Screen in St. Margaret's, Lothbury, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_230">230</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Scriveners' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_210">210</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Scrope's Inn, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_176">176</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Sculpture in the Temple, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_135">135</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Seal of Bishops of London, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_236">236</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Sebert, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_16">16</a></li> + +<li class="indx">See of London, Arms of the City and, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_233">233</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Sergeants-at-Law, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_142">142</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Sermon Lane, ii., <a href="#Page_214">214</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Sessions House, without Newgate, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_164">164</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Settlement at Westminster, Roman, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_11">11</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— of lawyers in the Temple, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_140">140</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Shakespeare, ii., <a href="#Page_45">45</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— in London, ii., <a href="#Page_26">26</a>, <a href="#Page_37">37</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Shakespeare's house in Blackfriars, ii., <a href="#Page_50">50</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Shambles, or meat market, ii., <a href="#Page_35">35</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Shipwrights' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_211">211</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Shirley, James, ii., <a href="#Page_171">171</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Shoe Lane, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_150">150</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Shops on Old London Bridge, houses and, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_112">112</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Shoreditch, ii., <a href="#Page_42">42</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Site of Celtic London, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_2">2</a></li> + +<li class="indx"><i>Six Clerks Inn</i>, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_174">174</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Skating on the Thames, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_131">131</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Skinners' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_196">196</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_199">199</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Hall, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_221">221</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Smithfield, Cloth Fair, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_116">116</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— horse races at, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_132">132</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— jousts at, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_130">130</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Societies of London, Learned, ii., <a href="#Page_150">150</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Society, Anthropological, ii., <a href="#Page_162">162</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Ethnological, ii., <a href="#Page_161">161</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Geological, ii., <a href="#Page_155">155</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— of Antiquaries, ii., <a href="#Page_150">150</a>, <a href="#Page_153">153</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— of Arts, Royal, ii., <a href="#Page_154">154</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— of Literature, Royal, ii., <a href="#Page_156">156</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Royal, ii., <a href="#Page_150">150</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Royal Asiatic, ii., <a href="#Page_156">156</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Royal Geographical, ii., <a href="#Page_160">160</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Royal Statistical, ii., <a href="#Page_160">160</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Sopars' Lane, ii., <a href="#Page_30">30</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Southampton House, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_154">154</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Southwark Bridge, ii., <a href="#Page_82">82</a>, <a href="#Page_97">97</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Inns at, ii., <a href="#Page_114">114</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Spectacle-makers' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_211">211</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Spencer, Sir John, ii., <a href="#Page_190">190</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Spenser, Edmund, born in East Smithfield, ii., <a href="#Page_171">171</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Spittle Croft, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_89">89</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Spoliation of the Companies, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_214">214</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Sports of London youths, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_131">131</a></li> + +<li class="indx">"Spread Eagle" Inn, ii., <a href="#Page_120">120</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Square, St. James's, ii., <a href="#Page_53">53</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Leicester, ii., <a href="#Page_216">216</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Stairs, Paris Garden, ii., <a href="#Page_44">44</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Thames, ii., <a href="#Page_22">22</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Standard, The, ii., <a href="#Page_31">31</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Staple Inn, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_116">116</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_153">153</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_160">160</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_170">170</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_171">171</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Ordinance of the, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_171">171</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Stationers' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_212">212</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Statistical Society, Royal, ii., <a href="#Page_160">160</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Statue of James II., Grinling Gibbons's, ii., <a href="#Page_60">60</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Steel-yard, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_227">227</a>; ii., <a href="#Page_21">21</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Guildhall of the, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_230">230</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Stepney, ii., <a href="#Page_53">53</a></li> + +<li class="indx">"Sterling, a pound," i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_232">232</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Stone, London, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_7">7</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_28">28</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_126">126</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Stow, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_8">8</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_11">11</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_13">13</a>; ii., <a href="#Page_41">41</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Stow's <i>Survey</i>, ii., <a href="#Page_25">25</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Strand, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_126">126</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Street, Artillery, ii., <a href="#Page_212">212</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Bread, ii., <a href="#Page_30">30</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Broad, ii., <a href="#Page_36">36</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Burleigh, ii., <a href="#Page_215">215</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Candlewick, ii., <a href="#Page_213">213</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Cannon, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_116">116</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Coleman, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_18">18</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Downing, ii., <a href="#Page_54">54</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Ermin, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_7">7</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Essex, ii., <a href="#Page_215">215</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Fenchurch, ii., <a href="#Page_214">214</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Fludyer, ii., <a href="#Page_54">54</a></li> + +<li class="indx"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_240" id="Page_240">{240}</a></span>—— Jewry, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_108">108</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Lombard, ii., <a href="#Page_27">27</a>, <a href="#Page_214">214</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Panton, ii., <a href="#Page_54">54</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Tooley, ii., <a href="#Page_209">209</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Watling, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_6">6</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Streets, Life of the, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_127">127</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Names of, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_123">123</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Narrow and crooked, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_112">112</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Narrow and unsavoury, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_125">125</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Pageant of the, ii., <a href="#Page_211">211</a></li> + +<li class="indx">"Sublime Society of Beef Steaks," ii., <a href="#Page_100">100</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Subterranean passage, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_62">62</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— prison, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_62">62</a></li> + +<li class="indx">"Sun" Inn, ii., <a href="#Page_70">70</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Surprised by mob, Tower, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_53">53</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Surrender of London to William I., i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_30">30</a></li> + +<li class="indx"><i>Survey</i>, Stow's, ii., <a href="#Page_25">25</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Sutton, Thomas, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_98">98</a></li> + +<li class="indx">"Swans, Game of," i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_204">204</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Swan-marking, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_204">204</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Swan playhouse, ii., <a href="#Page_47">47</a></li> + +<li class="indx">"Swan with Two Necks," Lad Lane, ii., <a href="#Page_133">133</a></li> + +<li class="indx">"Sweating" coin, Clipping or, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_109">109</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Swift at the "St. James's," ii., <a href="#Page_180">180</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Sword in the City Arms, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_235">235</a></li></ul> + + +<ul class="index"><li class="ifrst">Tabard Inn, ii., <a href="#Page_46">46</a>, <a href="#Page_114">114</a>, <a href="#Page_166">166</a></li> + +<li class="indx">"Tabard" Inn in Gracechurch Street, ii., <a href="#Page_120">120</a>, <a href="#Page_121">121</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Tacitus, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_6">6</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_7">7</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Tallow Chandlers' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_212">212</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Tanfield Court, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_146">146</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Tavern, Mermaid, ii., <a href="#Page_30">30</a>, <a href="#Page_168">168</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Taverns and Inns, ii., <a href="#Page_70">70</a>, <a href="#Page_113">113</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Templars, the, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_139">139</a></li> + +<li class="indx">"Temple, Associates of the," i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_136">136</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Temple, Authors of the, ii., <a href="#Page_174">174</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Church consecrated by Heraclius, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_133">133</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— —— desecration of, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_145">145</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— —— effigies in, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_136">136</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— —— organ, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_145">145</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Fires at the, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_144">144</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Garden, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_142">142</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Hall, Inner, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_139">139</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— —— Middle, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_143">143</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— in Holborn, Old, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_153">153</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Inner, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_141">141</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— James I. and the, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_144">144</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Literary Associations of the, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_146">146</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Middle, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_141">141</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_165">165</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Monuments in the, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_139">139</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— New, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_163">163</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Settlement of lawyers in the, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_140">140</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Sculpture in the, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_135">135</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— The, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_133">133-148</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Treasures and relics in the, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_138">138</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Wooden houses near, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_116">116</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Temples, Inner and Middle, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_161">161</a></li> + +<li class="indx"><i>Teutonicorum, Gilda</i>, ii., <a href="#Page_27">27</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Thames, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_4">4</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Coins found in the, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_10">10</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Ferries, ii., <a href="#Page_23">23</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Ford across, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_4">4</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Pageants on the, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_195">195</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Skating on the, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_131">131</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— "Stairs," ii., <a href="#Page_22">22</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Thames' watermen, ii., <a href="#Page_22">22</a>, <a href="#Page_167">167</a></li> + +<li class="indx">"Thatched House" Club, ii., <a href="#Page_180">180</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Theatre, Cockpit, ii., <a href="#Page_59">59</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Dorset Gardens, ii., <a href="#Page_68">68</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Drury Lane, ii., <a href="#Page_68">68</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Duke's House, ii., <a href="#Page_67">67</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Globe, ii., <a href="#Page_45">45</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— in Portugal Row, ii., <a href="#Page_68">68</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— King's House, ii., <a href="#Page_67">67</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Theatres, Old, ii., <a href="#Page_44">44</a>, <a href="#Page_167">167</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Thorney, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_12">12</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Three hundred Jews hanged, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_109">109</a></li> + +<li class="indx">"Three Nuns" Inn, ii., <a href="#Page_118">118</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Tuns" at Charing Cross, ii., <a href="#Page_71">71</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Tilt Yard, ii., <a href="#Page_58">58</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Timber, Early Castles of earth and, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_49">49</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Tin-plate Workers' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_212">212</a></li> + +<li class="indx">"Tithe, Saladin," i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_134">134</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Tooley Street, ii., <a href="#Page_209">209</a></li> + +<li class="indx">"Tour, The Grand," ii., <a href="#Page_66">66</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Tower, Gundulf, architect of, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_32">32</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_33">33</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— of London, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_27">27-65</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— keep compared with Colchester keep, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_33">33</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Wren's renovations of, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_35">35</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Town of London, a walled, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_110">110</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Trade and commerce, ii., <a href="#Page_186">186</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— City Companies; their promotion of, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_196">196</a></li> + +<li class="indx">"Traitors' Gate," i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_51">51</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_65">65</a>; ii., <a href="#Page_24">24</a>, <a href="#Page_90">90</a></li> + +<li class="indx"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_241" id="Page_241">{241}</a></span>Travellers' Club, ii., <a href="#Page_104">104</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Treasures and relics in the Temple, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_138">138</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Troubles, Civil War, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_102">102</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Turners' or "Wood-potters'" Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_212">212</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Turnmill Brook, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_149">149</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Twelfth century house, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_112">112</a></li> + +<li class="indx">"Two Swan" Inn yard, ii., <a href="#Page_122">122</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Tyler, Wat, Savoy Palace pillaged by, ii., <a href="#Page_4">4</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Wat, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_235">235</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Tylers' and Bricklayers' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_212">212</a></li></ul> + + +<ul class="index"><li class="ifrst">Ulster Plantation, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_214">214</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Undershaft, St. Andrew, ii., <a href="#Page_37">37</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Union Club, ii., <a href="#Page_104">104</a></li> + +<li class="indx">United Service Club, ii., <a href="#Page_101">101</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— University Club, ii., <a href="#Page_104">104</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Unsavoury Streets, Narrow and, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_125">125</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Upholders' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_212">212</a></li></ul> + + +<ul class="index"><li class="ifrst">Vandyke's Studio in Blackfriars, ii., <a href="#Page_49">49</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Vauxhall, ii., <a href="#Page_58">58</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— and Ranelagh, ii., <a href="#Page_222">222</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Viaduct, Holborn, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_149">149</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Vikings, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_225">225</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Vintners' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_197">197</a>, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_199">199</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Hall, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_222">222</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Vintry, ii., <a href="#Page_28">28</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Vision of Rahere, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_67">67</a></li></ul> + +<ul class="index"><li class="ifrst">Wadlow, Simon, ii., <a href="#Page_56">56</a></li> + + +<li class="indx">Walbrook, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_5">5</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Walden, Roger de, builds chantry chapel of St. Bartholomew, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_72">72</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Walford, Prior John, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_72">72</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Walk, King's Bench, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_144">144</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Paul's, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_117">117</a>; ii., <a href="#Page_33">33</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Walled Town, London a, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_110">110</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Walls, London, ii., <a href="#Page_212">212</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— of London, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_122">122</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Roman, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_11">11</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Walton, Izaac, ii., <a href="#Page_171">171</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Walworth, Sir William, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_235">235</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Wardrobe, Church of St. Andrew in the, ii., <a href="#Page_50">50</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Court, ii., <a href="#Page_50">50</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Warwick Lane, Inn of Earl of Warwick in, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_123">123</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Wash House Court, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_94">94</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Water-engineer, Peter Corbis, ii., <a href="#Page_91">91</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Waterloo Bridge, ii., <a href="#Page_97">97</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Watermen, Thames', ii., <a href="#Page_22">22</a>, <a href="#Page_167">167</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Watling Street, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_6">6</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Wax Chandlers' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_212">212</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Weavers' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_213">213</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Westcheap, ii., <a href="#Page_30">30</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— markets of Eastcheap and, ii., <a href="#Page_213">213</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Westminster, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_126">126</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— abbot and monks of, in prison, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_59">59</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Axe Yard, ii., <a href="#Page_54">54</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Bridge, ii., <a href="#Page_94">94</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Hall, ii., <a href="#Page_2">2</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Old inns in, ii., <a href="#Page_70">70</a>, <a href="#Page_71">71</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Palace of, ii., <a href="#Page_1">1</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Roman settlement at, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_111">111</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Wheelwrights' Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_213">213</a></li> + +<li class="indx">"Wherries," ii., <a href="#Page_22">22</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Whist played at Coffee-houses, ii., <a href="#Page_138">138</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Whitefriars Palace, ii., <a href="#Page_60">60</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Whitehall, ii., <a href="#Page_57">57</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Banqueting House, ii., <a href="#Page_14">14</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Floods at, ii., <a href="#Page_57">57</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Palace of, ii., <a href="#Page_9">9</a>, <a href="#Page_11">11</a>, <a href="#Page_13">13</a>, <a href="#Page_56">56</a>, <a href="#Page_57">57</a></li> + +<li class="indx">"White Hart" Inn, ii., <a href="#Page_115">115</a>, <a href="#Page_123">123</a></li> + +<li class="indx">"White Horse" Inn, ii., <a href="#Page_127">127</a></li> + +<li class="indx">White Tower, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_34">34</a></li> + +<li class="indx">"White's" Chocolate-house, ii., <a href="#Page_137">137</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Club, ii., <a href="#Page_101">101</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Whittington, Sir Richard, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_178">178</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Wild-fowl in St. James's Park, ii., <a href="#Page_63">63</a></li> + +<li class="indx">William I., Charter of, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_22">22</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_29">29</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— surrender of London to, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_30">30</a></li> + +<li class="indx">"Will's" Coffee-house in Russell Street, ii., <a href="#Page_137">137</a>, <a href="#Page_141">141</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Winchester House, ii., <a href="#Page_46">46</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— House of Marquis of, ii., <a href="#Page_36">36</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Windows in the Guildhall, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_189">189</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Witham, Somersetshire, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_87">87</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Wolsey, Cardinal, ii., <a href="#Page_13">13</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Wolsey's Palace, Cardinal, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_116">116</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Wooden houses near Temple, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_116">116</a></li> + +<li class="indx"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_242" id="Page_242">{242}</a></span>—— —— at Cripplegate, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_115">115</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Woodwork in City Churches, Carved, ii., <a href="#Page_207">207</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Woolcombers, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_213">213</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Woolmen's Company, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_213">213</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Wren, Sir Christopher, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_43">43</a>; ii., <a href="#Page_205">205</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Wren's building, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_144">144</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— churches destroyed, ii., <a href="#Page_206">206</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— renovations of the Tower, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_35">35</a></li></ul> + + +<ul class="index"><li class="ifrst">Yard, Glasshouse, ii., <a href="#Page_49">49</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Ireland, ii., <a href="#Page_50">50</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Playhouse, ii., <a href="#Page_50">50</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Tilt, ii., <a href="#Page_58">58</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Westminster, Axe, ii., <a href="#Page_54">54</a></li> + +<li class="indx">York House, ii., <a href="#Page_13">13</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Youths, Sports of London, i., <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28742/28742-h/28742-h.htm#Page_131">131</a></li></ul> + +<ul class="index"><li class="ifrst">Zoological collections, ii., <a href="#Page_63">63</a></li></ul> + + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/image_042.jpg" width="125" height="119" alt="" /> +</div> + +<hr class="chap" /> + +<p class='center'>Bemrose & Sons Limited, Printers, Derby and London.</p> + +<hr class="full" /> + +<div class="footnotes"><p class='p3'>FOOTNOTES:</p> + +<div class="footnote"> + +<p><a name="Footnote_1_1" id="Footnote_1_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_1_1"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> Thomas Dekker, the pamphleteer and dramatist, describes the +Exchange as it was in 1607, when "at every turn a man is put in mind of +Babel, there is such a confusion of languages"; and as late as 1644 the +picturesque dresses of the foreign merchants appear in an engraving by +Hollar.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"> + +<p><a name="Footnote_2_2" id="Footnote_2_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_2_2"><span class="label">[2]</span></a> Camden speaks of "this so stately building," and in his terse fashion +conveys the effect of the interior: "The west part, as also the Cross-yle, are +spacious, high-built, and goodly to be seene by reason of the huge Pillars and +a right beautiful arched Roof of stone."</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"> + +<p><a name="Footnote_3_3" id="Footnote_3_3"></a><a href="#FNanchor_3_3"><span class="label">[3]</span></a> This is Stow's figure. Camden gives the measurement as 534 feet.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"> + +<p><a name="Footnote_4_4" id="Footnote_4_4"></a><a href="#FNanchor_4_4"><span class="label">[4]</span></a> The name survives in Pike Gardens, Bankside.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"> + +<p><a name="Footnote_5_5" id="Footnote_5_5"></a><a href="#FNanchor_5_5"><span class="label">[5]</span></a> See the "Bear-house" near the "Play-house" (<i>i.e.</i>, the Rose) in +Norden's plan, 1593.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"> + +<p><a name="Footnote_6_6" id="Footnote_6_6"></a><a href="#FNanchor_6_6"><span class="label">[6]</span></a> <i>Cal. State Papers</i>, 1603-10, p. 367.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"> + +<p><a name="Footnote_7_7" id="Footnote_7_7"></a><a href="#FNanchor_7_7"><span class="label">[7]</span></a> During the time that the Jacobites were formidable, and long after, +it was firmly believed that the Old Pretender was brought into this room +as a baby in a warming pan, and plans of the room were common to show +how the fraud was committed.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"> + +<p><a name="Footnote_8_8" id="Footnote_8_8"></a><a href="#FNanchor_8_8"><span class="label">[8]</span></a> <i>Rariora</i>, vol. i., p. 17.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"> + +<p><a name="Footnote_9_9" id="Footnote_9_9"></a><a href="#FNanchor_9_9"><span class="label">[9]</span></a> Originally the crosses were of a blue colour, but Dr. Creighton says +that the colour was changed to red before the plague of 1603.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"> + +<p><a name="Footnote_10_10" id="Footnote_10_10"></a><a href="#FNanchor_10_10"><span class="label">[10]</span></a> A full account of the fire and of the rebuilding of the city has still +to be written, and the materials for the latter are to hand in the remarkable +"Fire Papers" in the British Museum. I have long desired to work on +this congenial subject, but having been prevented by other duties from +doing so, I hope that some London expert will be induced to give the +public a general idea of the contents of these valuable collections.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"> + +<p><a name="Footnote_11_11" id="Footnote_11_11"></a><a href="#FNanchor_11_11"><span class="label">[11]</span></a> <i>Cf. Cathedral Churches of Great Britain.</i> (Dent & Co.)</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"> + +<p><a name="Footnote_12_12" id="Footnote_12_12"></a><a href="#FNanchor_12_12"><span class="label">[12]</span></a> <i>Cf.</i> Mr. Philip Norman's notes on a recent lecture by Mr. Arthur +Keen. <i>Architect</i>, December 27th, 1907.</p></div></div> + +<hr class="full" /> + + +<h2><a name="Selected_from_the_Catalogue_of" id="Selected_from_the_Catalogue_of">Selected from the Catalogue of</a><br /> +BEMROSE & SONS Ltd.</h2> + +<hr class="tb" /> + +<p class='center u' style="font-size: x-large;"><b>Memorials of the Counties of England.</b></p> + +<p class='center'><i>Beautifully Illustrated. Demy 8vo, cloth extra, gilt top.<br /> +Price <b>15/-</b> each net.</i></p> + + +<p><b>MEMORIALS OF OLD OXFORDSHIRE.</b></p> + +<p>Edited by the Rev. <span class="smcap">P. H. Ditchfield</span>, M.A., F.S.A. Dedicated by kind +permission to the Right Hon. the Earl of Jersey, G.C.B., G.C.M.G.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>"This beautiful book contains an exhaustive history of 'the wondrous Oxford,' to which so many +distinguished scholars and politicians look back with affection. We must refer the reader to the +volume itself ... and only wish that we had space to quote extracts from its interesting pages."—<i>Spectator.</i></p></div> + + +<p><b>MEMORIALS OF OLD DEVONSHIRE.</b></p> + +<p>Edited by <span class="smcap">F. J. Snell</span>, M.A. Dedicated by kind permission to the Right +Hon. Viscount Ebrington.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>"A fascinating volume, which will be prized by thoughtful Devonians wherever they may be +found ... richly illustrated, some rare engravings being represented."—<i>North Devon Journal.</i></p></div> + + +<p><b>MEMORIALS OF OLD HEREFORDSHIRE.</b></p> + +<p>Edited by the Rev. <span class="smcap">Compton Reade</span>, M.A. Dedicated by kind permission to +Sir John G. Cotterell, Bart.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>"Another of these interesting volumes like the 'Memorials of Old Devonshire,' which we noted +a week or two ago, containing miscellaneous papers on the history, topography, and families of the +county by competent writers, with photographs and other illustrations."—<i>Times.</i></p></div> + + +<p><b>MEMORIALS OF OLD HERTFORDSHIRE.</b></p> + +<p>Edited by <span class="smcap">Percy Cross Standing</span>. Dedicated by kind permission to the +Right Hon. the Earl of Clarendon, G.C.B.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>"The book, which contains some magnificent illustrations, will be warmly welcomed by all +lovers of our county and its entertaining history."—<i>West Herts and Watford Observer.</i></p> + +<p>"The volume as a whole is an admirable and informing one, and all Hertfordshire folk should +possess it, if only as a partial antidote to the suburbanism which threatens to overwhelm their +beautiful county."—<i>Guardian.</i></p></div> + + +<p><b>MEMORIALS OF OLD HAMPSHIRE.</b></p> + +<p>Edited by the Rev. <span class="smcap">G. E. Jeans</span>, M.A., F.S.A. Dedicated by kind permission +to His Grace the Duke of Wellington, K.G.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>"'Memorials of the Counties of England' is worthily carried on in this interesting and readable +volume."—<i>Scotsman.</i></p></div> + + +<p><b>MEMORIALS OF OLD SOMERSET.</b></p> + +<p>Edited by <span class="smcap">F. J. Snell</span>, M.A. Dedicated by kind permission to the Most +Hon. the Marquis of Bath.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>"In these pages, as in a mirror, the whole life of the county, legendary, romantic, historical, comes +into view, for in truth the book is written with a happy union of knowledge and enthusiasm—a fine bit +of glowing mosaic put together by fifteen writers into a realistic picture of the county."—<i>Standard.</i></p></div> + + +<p><b>MEMORIALS OF OLD WILTSHIRE.</b></p> + +<p>Edited by <span class="smcap">Alice Dryden</span>.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>"The admirable series of County Memorials ... will, it is safe to say, include no volume of +greater interest than that devoted to Wiltshire."—<i>Daily Telegraph.</i></p></div> + + +<p><b>MEMORIALS OF OLD SHROPSHIRE.</b></p> + +<p>Edited by the Rev. <span class="smcap">Thomas Auden</span>, M.A., F.S.A.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>"Quite the best volume which has appeared so far in a series that has throughout maintained +a very high level."—<i>Tribune.</i></p></div> + + +<p><b>MEMORIALS OF OLD KENT.</b></p> + +<p>Edited by the Rev. <span class="smcap">P. H. Ditchfield</span>, M.A., F.S.A., and <span class="smcap">George Clinch</span>, +F.G.S. Dedicated by special permission to the Rt. Hon. Lord Northbourne, +F.S.A.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>"A very delightful addition to a delightful series. Kent, rich in honour and tradition as in +beauty, is a fruitful subject of which the various contributors have taken full advantage, archæology, +topography, and gossip being pleasantly combined to produce a volume both attractive and +valuable."—<i>Standard.</i></p></div> + + +<p><b>MEMORIALS OF OLD DERBYSHIRE.</b></p> + +<p>Edited by the Rev. <span class="smcap">J. Charles Cox</span>, LL.D., F.S.A. Dedicated by kind permission +to His Grace the Duke of Devonshire, K.G.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>"A valuable addition to our county history, and will possess a peculiar fascination for all who +devote their attention to historical, archæological, or antiquarian research, and probably to a much +wider circle."—<i>Derbyshire Advertiser.</i></p></div> + + +<p><b>MEMORIALS OF OLD DORSET.</b></p> + +<p>Edited by the Rev. <span class="smcap">Thomas Perkins</span>, M.A., and the Rev. <span class="smcap">Herbert Pentin</span>, +M.A. Dedicated by kind permission to the Right Hon. Lord Eustace Cecil, +F.R.G.S.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>"The volume, in fine, forms a noteworthy accession to the valuable series of books in which it +appears."—<i>Scotsman.</i></p></div> + + +<p><b>MEMORIALS OF OLD WARWICKSHIRE.</b></p> + +<p>Edited by <span class="smcap">Alice Dryden</span>.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>"Worthy of an honoured place on our shelves. It is also one of the best, if not the best, volume +in a series of exceptional interest and usefulness."—<i>Birmingham Gazette.</i></p></div> + + +<p><b>MEMORIALS OF OLD NORFOLK.</b></p> + +<p>Edited by the Rev. <span class="smcap">H. J. Dukinfield Astley</span>, M.A., Litt.D., F.R.Hist.S. +Dedicated by kind permission to the Right Hon. Viscount Coke, C.M.G., C.V.O.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>"This latest contribution to the history and archæology of Norfolk deserves a foremost place +among local works.... The tasteful binding, good print, and paper are everything that can be +desired."—<i>Eastern Daily Press.</i></p></div> + + +<p><b>MEMORIALS OF OLD LONDON.</b> Two vols. Price <b>25/-</b> net. Edited by +the Rev. <span class="smcap">P. H. Ditchfield</span>, M.A., F.S.A.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p><span class="smcap">Contents</span>: Celtic, Roman, Saxon, and Norman London, by the Rev. W. J. Loftie, F.S.A.—The +Tower of London, by Harold Sands, F.S.A.—St. Bartholomew's Church, Smithfield, by +J. Tavenor-Perry.—The Charterhouse, by the Rev. A. G. B. Atkinson, M.A.—Glimpses of Mediæval +London, by G. Clinch, F.G.S.—The Palaces of London, by the Rev. R. S. Mylne, LL.D., F.S.A.—The +Temple, by the Rev. H. G. Woods, D.D., Master.—The Inns of Court, by E. Williams—The +Guildhall, by C. Welsh, F.S.A.—The City Companies, by the Editor.—The Kontor of the Hanse, by +J. Tavenor-Perry.—The Arms of London, by J. Tavenor-Perry.—Elizabethan London, by +T. Fairman Ordish, F.S.A.—The London of Pepys, by H. B. Wheatley, F.S.A.—The Thames +and its Bridges, by J. Tavenor-Perry.—The Old Inns of London, by Philip Norman, LL.D.—London +Clubs, by Sir Edward Brabrook, C.B., F.S.A.—The Coffee Houses, by G. L. Apperson.—Learned +Societies of London, by Sir Edward Brabrook, C.B., F.S.A.—Literary Shrines, by +Mrs. Lang.—Crosby Hall, by the Editor.—The Pageant of London; with some account of the City +Churches, Christ's Hospital, etc., by the Editor.</p></div> + + +<p><b>MEMORIALS OF OLD ESSEX.</b> Edited by <span class="smcap">A. Clifton Kelway</span>, F.R.Hist.S.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>Among the contributors are: Guy Maynard, Francis W. Reader, Rev. J. Charles +Cox, LL.D., F.S.A., C. Forbes, T. Grose Lloyd, C. Fell Smith, Alfred Kingston, Miller +Christy, F.L.S., W. W. Porteous, E. Bertram Smith, Thomas Fforster, Edward Smith, and +the Editor.</p></div> + + +<p class='center'><i>The following volumes are in preparation:—</i></p> + +<p><b>MEMORIALS OF OLD SUFFOLK.</b> Edited by <span class="smcap">Vincent B. Redstone</span>, +F.R.Hist.S.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>Among the contributors will be: F. Seymour Stevenson, M.A., Rev. J. Charles Cox, LL.D., +F.S.A., L. P. Steele Hutton, Rev. Rowland Maitland, B.A., B. J. Balding, P. Turner, +H. J. Hitchcock, and the Editor.</p></div> + + +<p><b>MEMORIALS OF OLD SUSSEX.</b> Edited by <span class="smcap">Percy D. Mundy</span>.</p> + + +<p><b>MEMORIALS OF OLD LANCASHIRE.</b> Two vols. Price <b>25/-</b> net. +Edited by <span class="smcap">Lieut.-Colonel Fishwick</span>, F.S.A.</p> + + +<p><b>MEMORIALS OF OLD YORKSHIRE.</b> Edited by <span class="smcap">T. M. Fallow</span>, +M.A., F.S.A.</p> + + +<p><b>MEMORIALS OF OLD GLOUCESTERSHIRE.</b> Edited by <span class="smcap">P. W. P. +Phillimore</span>, M.A., B.C.L.</p> + + +<p><b>MEMORIALS OF OLD LINCOLNSHIRE.</b> Edited by <span class="smcap">Canon Hudson</span>, M.A.</p> + + +<p><b>MEMORIALS OF OLD NOTTINGHAMSHIRE.</b> Edited by <span class="smcap">P. W. P. +Phillimore</span>, M.A., B.C.L.</p> + + +<p><b>MEMORIALS OF NORTH WALES.</b> Edited by <span class="smcap">E. Alfred Jones</span>.</p> + + +<p><b>MEMORIALS OF OLD MANXLAND.</b> Edited by the Rev. <span class="smcap">John Quine</span>, M.A.</p> + + +<p><b>MEMORIALS OF SOUTH WALES.</b> Edited by <span class="smcap">E. Alfred Jones</span>.</p> + + +<p><b>MEMORIALS OF OLD STAFFORDSHIRE.</b> Edited by the Rev. <span class="smcap">W. Beresford</span>.</p> + + +<p><b>MEMORIALS OF OLD MONMOUTHSHIRE.</b> Edited by <span class="smcap">Colonel +Bradney</span>, F.S.A., and <span class="smcap">J. Kyrle Fletcher</span>.</p> + + +<p><b>MEMORIALS OF OLD WORCESTERSHIRE.</b> Edited by <span class="smcap">F. B. Andrews</span>, +F.R.I.B.A.</p> + + +<p><b>MEMORIALS OF OLD LEICESTERSHIRE.</b> Edited by <span class="smcap">Alice Dryden</span>.</p> + + +<p><b>MEMORIALS OF OLD CHESHIRE.</b> Edited by the <span class="smcap">Ven. the Archdeacon +of Chester</span>, and the Rev. <span class="smcap">P. H. Ditchfield</span>, M.A., F.S.A.</p> + + +<p><b>OLD ENGLISH GOLD PLATE.</b></p> + +<p>By <span class="smcap">E. Alfred Jones</span>. With numerous Illustrations of existing specimens +of Old English Gold Plate, which by reason of their great rarity and +historic value deserve publication in book form. The examples are from +the collections of Plate belonging to His Majesty the King, the Dukes of +Devonshire, Newcastle, Norfolk, Portland, and Rutland, the Marquis of +Ormonde, the Earls of Craven, Derby, and Yarborough, Earl Spencer, Lord +Fitzhardinge, Lord Waleran, Mr. Leopold de Rothschild, the Colleges of +Oxford and Cambridge, &c. Royal 4to, buckram, gilt top. Price <b>21/-</b> net.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>"Pictures, descriptions, and introduction make a book that must rank high in the estimation of +students of its subject, and of the few who are well off enough to be collectors in this Corinthian field +of luxury."—<i>Scotsman.</i></p></div> + + +<p><b>LONGTON HALL PORCELAIN.</b></p> + +<p>Being further information relating to this interesting fabrique, by the late +<span class="smcap">William Bemrose</span>, F.S.A., author of <i>Bow, Chelsea and Derby Porcelain</i>. Illustrated +with 27 Coloured Art Plates, 21 Collotype Plates, and numerous line +and half-tone Illustrations in the text. Bound in handsome "Longton-blue" +cloth cover, suitably designed. Price <b>42/-</b> net.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>"This magnificent work on the famous Longton Hall ware will be indispensable to the +collector."—<i>Bookman.</i></p> + +<p>"The collector will find Mr. Bemrose's explanations of the technical features which characterize +the Longton Hall pottery of great assistance in identifying specimens, and he will be aided thereto by +the many well-selected illustrations."—<i>Athenæum.</i></p></div> + + +<p><b>THE VALUES OF OLD ENGLISH SILVER & SHEFFIELD +PLATE, FROM THE FIFTEENTH TO THE NINETEENTH +CENTURIES.</b></p> + +<p>By <span class="smcap">J. W. Caldicott</span>. Edited by <span class="smcap">J. Starkie Gardner</span>, F.S.A. 3,000 +Selected Auction Sale Records; 1,600 Separate Valuations; 660 Articles. +Illustrated with 87 Collotype Plates. 300 pages. Royal 4to Cloth. Price +<b>42/-</b> net.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>"A most comprehensive and abundantly illustrated volume.... Enables even the most inexperienced +to form a fair opinion of the value either of a single article or a collection, while as a +reference and reminder it must prove of great value to an advanced student."—<i>Daily Telegraph.</i></p></div> + + +<p><b>HISTORY OF OLD ENGLISH PORCELAIN AND ITS +MANUFACTURES.</b></p> + +<p>With an Artistic, Industrial and Critical Appreciation of their Productions. +By <span class="smcap">M. L. Solon</span>, the well-known Potter-Artist and Collector. In one +handsome volume. Royal 8vo, well printed in clear type on good paper, and +beautifully illustrated with 20 full-page Coloured Collotype and Photo-Chromotype +Plates and 48 Collotype Plates on Tint. Artistically bound. +Price <b>52/6</b> net.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>"Mr. Solon writes not only with the authority of the master of technique, but likewise with that +of the accomplished artist, whose exquisite creations command the admiration of the connoisseurs of +to-day."—<i>Athenæum.</i></p></div> + + +<p><b>MANX CROSSES; or The Inscribed and Sculptured Monuments +of the Isle of Man, from about the end of the Fifth to +the beginning of the Thirteenth Century.</b></p> + +<p>By <span class="smcap">P. M. C. Kermode</span>, F.S.A.Scot., &c. The illustrations are from drawings +specially prepared by the Author, founded upon rubbings, and carefully +compared with photographs and with the stones themselves. In one handsome +Quarto Volume 11<sup>1</sup>/<sub>8</sub> in. by 8<sup>5</sup>/<sub>8</sub> in., printed on Van Gelder hand-made +paper, bound in full buckram, gilt top, with special design on the side. +Price <b>63/-</b> net. The edition is limited to 400 copies.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>"We have now a complete account of the subject in this very handsome volume, which Manx +patriotism, assisted by the appreciation of the public in general, will, we hope, make a success."—<i>Spectator.</i></p></div> + + +<p><b>DERBYSHIRE CHARTERS IN PUBLIC AND PRIVATE +LIBRARIES AND MUNIMENT ROOMS.</b></p> + +<p>Compiled, with Preface and Indexes, for Sir Henry Howe Bemrose, Kt., by +<span class="smcap">Isaac Herbert Jeayes</span>, Assistant Keeper in the Department of MSS., +British Museum. Royal 8vo, cloth, gilt top. Price <b>42/-</b> net.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>"The book must always prove of high value to investigators in its own recondite field of research, +and would form a suitable addition to any historical library."—<i>Scotsman.</i></p></div> + + +<p><b>SOME DORSET MANOR HOUSES, WITH THEIR LITERARY +AND HISTORICAL ASSOCIATIONS.</b></p> + +<p>By <span class="smcap">Sidney Heath</span>, with a fore-word by R. Bosworth Smith, of Bingham's +Melcombe. Illustrated with forty drawings by the Author, in addition to +numerous rubbings of Sepulchral Brasses by W. de C. Prideaux, reproduced +by permission of the Dorset Natural History and Antiquarian Field Club. +Dedicated by kind permission to the most Hon. the Marquis of Salisbury. +Royal 4to, cloth, bevelled edges. Price <b>30/-</b> net.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>"Dorset is rich in old-world manor houses; and in this large, attractive volume twenty are +dealt with in pleasant, descriptive and antiquarian chapters, fully illustrated with pen-and-ink +drawings by Mr. Heath and rubbings from brasses by W. de C. Prideaux."—<i>Times.</i></p></div> + + +<p><b>THE CHURCH PLATE OF THE DIOCESE OF BANGOR.</b></p> + +<p>By <span class="smcap">E. Alfred Jones</span>. With Illustrations of about one hundred pieces of +Old Plate, including a pre-Reformation Silver Chalice, hitherto unknown; +a Mazer Bowl, a fine Elizabethan Domestic Cup and Cover, a Tazza of the +same period, several Elizabethan Chalices, and other important Plate from +James I. to Queen Anne. Demy 4to, buckram. Price <b>21/-</b> net.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>"This handsome volume is the most interesting book on Church Plate hitherto issued."—<i>Athenæum.</i></p></div> + + +<p><b>THE OLD CHURCH PLATE OF THE ISLE OF MAN.</b></p> + +<p>By <span class="smcap">E. Alfred Jones</span>. With many illustrations, including a pre-Reformation +Silver Chalice and Paten, an Elizabethan Beaker, and other important +pieces of Old Silver Plate and Pewter. Crown 4to, buckram. Price <b>10/6</b> +net.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>"A beautifully illustrated descriptive account of the many specimens of Ecclesiastical Plate to +be found in the Island."—<i>Manchester Courier.</i></p></div> + + +<p><b>GARDEN CITIES IN THEORY AND PRACTICE.</b></p> + +<p>By <span class="smcap">A. R. Sennett</span>, A.M.I.C.E., &c. Large Crown 8vo. Two vols., +attractively bound in cloth, with 400 Plates, Plans and Illustrations. Price +<b>21/-</b> net.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>"... What Mr. Sennett has to say here deserves, and will no doubt command, the careful +consideration of those who govern the future fortunes of the Garden City."—<i>Bookseller.</i></p></div> + + +<p><b>DERBY: ITS RISE AND PROGRESS.</b></p> + +<p>By <span class="smcap">A. W. Davison</span>, illustrated with 12 plates and two maps. Crown 8vo, +cloth. Price <b>5/-</b>.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>"A volume with which Derby and its people should be well satisfied."—<i>Scotsman.</i></p></div> + + +<p><b>THE CORPORATION PLATE AND INSIGNIA OF OFFICE +OF THE CITIES AND TOWNS OF ENGLAND AND WALES.</b></p> + +<p>By the late <span class="smcap">Llewellynn Jewitt</span>, F.S.A. Edited and completed with large +additions by <span class="smcap">W. H. St. John Hope</span>, M.A. Fully illustrated, 2 vols., Crown +4to, buckram, <b>84/-</b> net. Large paper, 2 vols., Royal 4to, <b>105/-</b> net.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>"It is difficult to praise too highly the careful research and accurate information throughout these +two handsome quartos."—<i>Athenæum.</i></p></div> + + +<p><b>THE RELIQUARY: AN ILLUSTRATED MAGAZINE FOR +ANTIQUARIES, ARTISTS, AND COLLECTORS.</b></p> + +<p>A Quarterly Journal and Review devoted to the study of primitive industries, +mediæval handicrafts, the evolution of ornament, religious symbolism, +survival of the past in the present, and ancient art generally. Edited by the +Rev. <span class="smcap">J. Charles Cox</span>, LL.D., F.S.A. New Series. Vols. 1 to 13, Super +Royal 8vo, buckram, price <b>12/-</b> each net. Special terms for sets.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>"Of permanent interest to all who take an interest in the many and wide branches of which it +furnishes not only information and research, but also illumination in pictorial form."—<i>Scotsman.</i></p></div> + +<hr class="full" /> + +<p class='center'> +<span class="smcap">London: Bemrose & Sons Ltd., 4 Snow Hill, E.C.;<br /> +And Derby.</span><br /> +</p> + +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<div>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 48187 ***</div> +</body> +</html> + diff --git a/48187/48187-h/images/cover.jpg b/48187-h/images/cover.jpg Binary files differindex 3792b7b..3792b7b 100644 --- a/48187/48187-h/images/cover.jpg +++ b/48187-h/images/cover.jpg diff --git a/48187/48187-h/images/drop-a.png b/48187-h/images/drop-a.png Binary files differindex 10eedad..10eedad 100644 --- a/48187/48187-h/images/drop-a.png +++ b/48187-h/images/drop-a.png diff --git a/48187/48187-h/images/drop-f.png b/48187-h/images/drop-f.png Binary files differindex 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