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diff --git a/old/50546-0.txt b/old/50546-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 951f9fa..0000000 --- a/old/50546-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7587 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of Royal Winchester, by A. G. L'Estrange - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - -Title: Royal Winchester - Wanderings in and about the Ancient Capital of England - -Author: A. G. L'Estrange - -Illustrator: C. G. Harper - -Release Date: November 24, 2015 [EBook #50546] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ROYAL WINCHESTER *** - - - - -Produced by Juliet Sutherland, Fay Dunn and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net - - - - - - - - - -Transcriber’s Note - - -In this plain text version of Royal Winchester: - words in italics are marked with _underscores_ - words printed in a bold Gothic font are marked with =equals signs= - words in small capitals are shown in UPPER CASE. - -Illustrations have been moved near to the text they illustrate. The -page numbers in the List of Illustrations refer to the original -positions. - -Footnotes have been moved to the end of chapters. - -Sidenotes were originally page headings, they have been moved to the -start of paragraphs. These were all printed in italics. - -Inconsistent hyphenation and variant spelling are retained. Quotations -and transcriptions have been left as printed. Minor changes have been -made to punctuation, the other changes that have been made are listed -at the end of the book. - - - - -[Illustration: The Cathedral: West Front. - -WINCHESTER CATHEDRAL.] - - - - - ROYAL - WINCHESTER - - WANDERINGS IN AND ABOUT - THE ANCIENT CAPITAL OF ENGLAND - - BY THE - REV. A. G. L’ESTRANGE, M.A. - - AUTHOR OF - “THE VILLAGE OF PALACES,” - “THE FRIENDSHIPS OF M. R. MITFORD,” ETC., ETC. - - WITH NUMEROUS TEXT AND FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS FROM - ORIGINAL SKETCHES BY C. G. HARPER - - _SECOND EDITION._ - - LONDON: - SPENCER BLACKETT - 35, ST. BRIDE STREET, LUDGATE CIRCUS, E.C. - - (_All rights reserved._) - - - - -Among those who have kindly afforded me information during the progress -of this work are the Very Rev. Dr. Kitchin, Dean of Winchester, the -Rev. Dr. Sewell, Warden of New College, Oxford, the Rev. J. G. Young, -Mr. F. Baigent, Mr. J. H. Round, Mr. T. Stopher, and Mr. C. G. Harper. -I have consulted, among recent works, those of the Misses Bramston and -Leroy, the Rev. H. C. Adams, and Mr. Woodward. - - THE AUTHOR. - - - - -CONTENTS. - - - FIRST DAY. - PAGE - Introduction--The High Street--The Castle--King Arthur - --Historical Reminiscences--Executions--The Civil - War--Charles II.’s Palace--The Westgate--Wyke-- - Littleton--Crawley--Lainston--Sparsholt 1 - - - SECOND DAY. - - “God Begot” House--The High Street--Old Guildhall-- - Butter Cross--King Alfred--The Penthouse--St. - Maurice’s Church--The Bell and Crown--New Guildhall - --Museum--Archives--St. Mary’s Nunnery--St. - John’s Hospital--Soke Prison--St. Giles’ Hill--The - Fair 49 - - - THIRD DAY. - - The City Walls--Danemead--Eastgate--Northgate-- - Westgate--Southgate--Kingsgate--The College-- - Wykeham--Wolvesey--Raleigh 85 - - - FOURTH DAY. - - Jewry Street and the Jews--Hyde Abbey--St. Grimbald - --Destruction of Tombs--Headbourne Worthy-- - King’s Worthy--The Nuns’ Walk 123 - - - FIFTH DAY. - - The Cathedral--Early History--Dagon--St. Swithun - --Æthelwold--The Vocal Cross--Ordeal of Fire-- - Walkelin--Renovation of the Cathedral--Civil War - --Architecture--Nave--Isaak Walton--Relics and - Monuments--De la Roche--Frescoes--Ethelmar-- - Crypt 148 - - - SIXTH DAY. - - The Grenadier--Cathedral Library and Museum--The - Deanery--Pilgrim’s Hall--Precincts--Cheyney Court - --Regulations of the Monastery--North side of the - Cathedral--Early decay of the City--St. Peter’s Street - --Middle Brooks--Old Houses 209 - - - SEVENTH DAY. - - Southgate Street--St. Cross--Dr. Lewis--Regulations-- - St. Catherine’s Hill 243 - - - EIGHTH AND FOLLOWING DAYS. - - Ancient Britons--St. John’s Church--Magdalen Hospital - --Punchbowl--Chilcombe--St. Peter’s Cheesehill-- - Twyford--Monoliths--Brambridge Avenue--Otterbourne - --Compton--“Oliver’s Battery”--Hursley--Tomb - of Keble--Merdon Castle--Farley Mount--The Hampage - Oak--Tichborne 262 - - - INDEX 297 - - - - -LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. - - - PAGE - - THE CATHEDRAL: WEST FRONT, WINCHESTER _Frontispiece_ - - WESTGATE 7 - - CASTLE HALL 29 - - THE EPITAPH OF DR HARPESFELDE 40 - - SPARSHOLT CHURCH 45 - - THE BUTTER CROSS AND PENTHOUSE 49 - - ROYAL OAK PASSAGE 51 - - THE OLD GUILDHALL 55 - - THE GUILDHALL 67 - - SOKE BRIDGE 77 - - TOWERS AND SPIRES OF WINCHESTER 79 - - KINGSGATE 90 - - THE PORTER’S LODGE AND CHEYNEY COURT 92 - - CHAMBER COURT 99 - - THE CLOISTERS 103 - - THE COLLEGE CHAPEL 111 - - CORNER OF A COLLEGE STUDY 115 - - THE TOWER OF THE COLLEGE CHAPEL FROM THE ITCHEN 121 - - CNUT AND EMMA (ÆLFGYFU) PLACING THE CROSS AT HYDE 133 - - WYKEHAM’S TOMB 167 - - A FRAGMENT OF THE CHAPTER HOUSE 169 - - IN THE NORTH TRANSEPT 177 - - KING JAMES 181 - - THE CHOIR FROM THE NAVE 187 - - THE DEANERY 219 - - THE PENTHOUSE 233 - - MIDDLE BROOK 237 - - THE CHURCH OF SAINT CROSS FROM THE WATER MEADOWS 245 - - BEAUFORT TOWER, ST. CROSS 249 - - ST. CATHERINE’S HILL FROM ST. CROSS 259 - - ST. JOHN’S FROM A COTTAGE GARDEN 265 - - CHILCOMBE CHURCH 270 - - A CHILCOMBE TOMBSTONE 271 - - ST. PETER’S CHEESEHILL FROM ABOVE THE STATION 273 - - TWYFORD 278 - - HURSLEY 285 - - FARLEY MOUNT 288 - - - - -ROYAL WINCHESTER - -_WANDERINGS IN AND ABOUT THE ANCIENT CAPITAL OF ENGLAND._ - - - - -FIRST DAY. - -Introduction--The High Street--The Castle--King Arthur--Historical - Reminiscences--Executions--The Civil War--Charles II.’s Palace--The - Westgate--Wyke--Littleton--Crawley--Lainston--Sparsholt. - - -“Would that the George Hotel had an old gable, or even an Elizabethan -window,” I said to myself as I unshouldered my knapsack; “but perhaps -the ordinary visitor thinks more of creature comforts than of artistic -effects.” - -“Is there anything of antiquity about the house?” I inquired, turning -to the waiter. - -“Not that I know of,” was the reply; “but it is a very ancient -establishment. There is a fresco two hundred years old in one of the -rooms,” he added, with a little pride. - -I took out my notebook and pencil, and was shown into a ground-floor -room in the western and earlier part of the hotel to see this -curiosity. Alas! it proved to be nothing but an old paperhanging. - -“Not very remarkable,” I said, carelessly. - -“Indeed, sir!” - -“I am expecting some friends by the next train,” I continued. “We shall -require dinner for three. What can we have?” - -The waiter was pretty well acquainted with the productions of the -culinary department, which had not much charm of novelty, and after -settling that important business, I sallied forth to purchase a -guide-book. This was not the first time I had been at Winchester, and -much of the information it contained was not new to me; but I wished to -refresh my memory on some points, as the friends I was expecting looked -to me to be their _cicerone_ during the few days we were to spend here -together. - -Reading some and skipping more, and glancing at the well-known -illustrations, I thought myself fairly acquainted with the subject, -especially as I had rummaged up something from old books and -manuscripts in London. I wished to stand well with the old gentleman -and his daughter for certain reasons which I shall not mention--because -I may be unsuccessful. Well--we shall see. - -[Sidenote: Arrival.] - -Here they are!--warm greetings--the luggage is lifted down, and by -degrees the small articles which accompany a lady’s travels were -brought in, counted, and arranged. Do the number and variety of them -cause me to hesitate or to reflect that in single blessedness-- - - “When a man’s hat is on his head - His house is thatched and furnishèd”? - -No, not for one moment. - -Conversation soon becomes more connected, and, in due course, allusion -is made to the object of our visit. - -“Now, mind you tell us _everything_ about Winchester,” said Miss -Hertford, with a smiling emphasis, which showed that she intended to be -obeyed. - -“Everything, and some other things,” I replied, submissively; “but -perhaps you under-estimate the extent of the mine which is here beneath -our feet. You are an enchantress, and if you wish to become the idol of -antiquaries, turn Winchester upside down for a few hours.” - -The present “George” is not inspiring architecturally, but still -possesses a fragrance beyond that of mere soups and joints. Here -successive generations have been accommodated and regaled, - - “Have found the warmest welcome at an inn,” - -ever since the days of Edward IV. Had a Visitors Book been kept, what a -rare collection of autographs would it have contained! In the twentieth -year of Henry VIII. we read of the “In of the George” being leased by -the Mayor to one Stephen Boddam, on condition that he pays the rent -fixed and forty shillings towards the new making of the chimney.[1] -The name of the house was taken from the patron saint of England, -pork-dealer, bishop, and dragon-slayer; to whom we find a chapel in -Winchester dedicated in Henry IV.’s time.[2] - -[Sidenote: Sufferings of a Royalist.] - -The stable at the back is the oldest part. It has a dingy aspect, and -an unpleasant association. When Waller was here making demands upon -the citizens in 1643, one Master Say, a son of a Prebendary of the -Cathedral, directed his servant to conceal his horses. Betrayed and -brought before Waller, he was questioned, and his answers being deemed -unsatisfactory, was handed over to the Provost Marshal to extract a -confession. He was forthwith taken into the “eighteen-stall stable,” a -halter was placed round his neck, and, as he still refused information, -he was pulled up and down to the rack until nearly strangled. All the -spectators retired in disgust--they could not stand the sight. - -“How dreadful!” exclaimed Miss Hertford. “Did the poor man die?” - -“It very nearly finished him,” I returned; “but people were pretty -strong in those days. However, he had, as a result, a dangerous -illness.” - -There is no better starting-point than the “George,” in the centre of -the High Street, for exploring Winchester. This was the chief street -in Roman times, and perhaps terminated in such a round arch as we see -at Lincoln. In the palmy days of the city good houses probably adorned -the street. There seems to have been a fashionable tailor here in the -days of John and Henry III. His cut was evidently appreciated, for -he was not only employed by the King, but given wood to repair his -house, Limafelda, the rent of which was a grey pelise for the King. -We may conclude there was also a grand harness maker: for John ordered -the Mayor to give the constable of Corfe Castle a handsome (pulchra) -saddle, with a scarlet saddle-cloth and gilt bridle.[3] - -The scene had greatly changed by Henry VIII.’s time. The houses, mostly -wooden and thatched, had gardens in front of them, of a somewhat Irish -character, for the walls were dilapidated,[4] and they contained -few flowers, but many sweet--pigs. A civic order was now made that -householders should no longer keep “hog-sties” within the boundaries -of the “hie” street. Those were times of darkness--there were no -town-lights, and some apprehension was felt that even the supply of -candles might run short. And so, in the fifteenth year of Henry VIII., -it was ordered by the Winchester “assemble” that the chandlers “should -make” good and well-burning candles, and “should see there was no lack -of them.”[5] In Charles II.’s time the citizens were bidden to hang out -lights while the King was in residence. - -[Sidenote: Westgate.] - -Now let us come to a nearer date, and imagine this street a -hundred years ago. An open drain ran down it, and lines of gables -and overhanging storeys nodded across at each other in grotesque -infirmity. A pretty picture they made, and there was one night in the -year on which they seemed to me to be sadly missing--the fifth of -November--when tar barrels were lit at the Westgate and kicked down the -street by an exulting mob. A grand scene it was of riot and wildfire, -and only wanted the quaint, irregular buildings to complete the effect. - -“When Keats was here in 1819,” said Mr. Hertford, “he found the -place much modernized and ‘improved.’ He says the side streets were -excessively maiden-lady-like; the doorsteps were always fresh from the -flannel, and the knockers had a staid, serious, almost awful quietness -about them. Never did he see such a quiet collection of lions’ and -rams’ heads.”[6] - -[Illustration: West Gate, Winchester.] - -The first object that attracted our attention on our walks was the -Westgate, which crowns the High Street, and is beautiful with its -ivy, arches, and two Decorated windows. There is a warm semi-domestic -character in the fortifications of a town--a charm distinct from that -of the colder grandeur of the Castle and Cathedral. As we approach the -gate, we pass the Star Inn. - -“That unpretentious building,” I said, “stands on holy ground.[7] - -“Graves of unknown age, Roman coins and vases were found there when -digging for the foundations in 1885. It is thought that a palace of -Queen Emma stood on or near its site. There was a hostel named ‘La -Starre’ in Winchester in the reign of Henry IV.” - -[Sidenote: Prisoners.] - -We now approach and stand before the gate. Had we been here in the -fourteenth century--on a Sunday morning--during the fair, we should -have found ourselves surrounded by a chattering crowd, buying bread at -the stalls here erected; while close to us on the left (south), would -have risen a grim tower in haughty grandeur. It stood just in front -of where are now the stairs of the office of the Hampshire Friendly -Society--a slight inequality in the road can be observed over the -foundations. This was a part of the ancient castle, which some say -was built by FitzOsborne at the Conqueror’s command, while others[8] -observe that we have no allusion to it till the days of Henry I. In -Henry II.’s reign it is often mentioned. Some say that previously the -Saxon palace stood here. This palace has been well jolted about by -topographers, most of whom place it in the Square behind the Butter -Cross. The result is that we have here a couple of prisoners, and -do not know where to put them. One of these is Stigand, Bishop of -Winchester, and afterwards archbishop. His treasures were not entirely -in the other world, but he kindly kept a correct account of them, -and wore his key on a chain round his neck, so that on his death in -1070, William had no difficulty in turning his store into the royal -coffers. The other sufferer was a young Saxon of the name of Meaw. It -appears that the Conqueror’s wife, Matilda, was not so busy with her -Bayeux tapestry and _Abbaye aux Dames_ as to forget all about this -aggravating person. He would care nothing for her, and she determined -to be revenged. So she had him shut up somewhere in Winchester, that he -might have leisure to reflect on the advantages of being “willing and -free.” Prisons were not then as they are now--some of the best warmed -and ventilated places--there were no good food and attentive doctors, -and after a short time poor Meaw was beyond the reach both of love and -hatred. - -[Sidenote: The Domesday Book.] - -In this Castle was the “exchequer,” that is, the depository of records -and treasure. Among the valuables it contained for a considerable time -was the celebrated Domesday Book, or a copy of it, which is first -mentioned as the “Liber de Thesauro,” appealed to in a case argued -before Queen Matilda “in the treasury of the Castle of Winchester,”[9] -about the year 1108. The original rolls disappeared at an early date, -perhaps in some conflagration, but the Winton book, that describing -this locality, is a more full copy from them than is the larger -Domesday Book for the whole of England. Authorities differ as to when -this book was removed from Winchester. In the seventh year of Henry -II., there appears a charge in the Pipe Rolls for conveying the “arca” -from Winchester to London, and in the London Record Office there is a -curious chest in which this book was kept at Westminster. It is about -five feet square, formed of iron nearly an inch thick, and strengthened -with heavy girders and studs. This may have been the very ark above -mentioned. - -“In order to see this castle we must ante-date our existence three -hundred years.” - -“I wish we could,” said Mr. Hertford, “then we should have no trouble -about Home Rule or County Councils.” - -“Suppose then,” I proceeded, “we are standing in front of the old tower -I have mentioned, and admiring its handsome mouldings of cut stone. -If we are allowed to enter and explore we shall find beneath it three -subterranean passages radiating in different directions--one to the -east, passing into the town, with a view probably of taking sanctuary -in churches; another to the south, leading towards the hall; and a -third to the west, ending in a sally port outside the town. Passing -through this entrance tower we have on our left an embattled wall -(where the paved walk now runs) meeting the end of the hall,[10] and -on our right another wall (along the course of the iron railing of the -Friendly Society), extending to the State apartments--the site of the -present County Offices. The original Norman Castle--a tower fifty-two -feet square and fourteen thick, which stood where the Jubilee Queen -now sits in front of the hall--was demolished at an early date. The -succeeding castle had round towers, between thirty and forty feet wide, -and from eight to ten thick.[11] Beyond the hall was an inner court, -or ‘pleasaunce,’ with four towers, one at each corner; one is still -visible, and one stood where the officers’ quarters are; one probably -belonging to the Castle, but somewhat distant, and perhaps detached, -was found in the railway cutting. - -[Sidenote: The Castle.] - -“A remarkable, if not fabulous event, took place ‘in the hall of -Winchester Castle’ (or palace) in Edward the Confessor’s time. The -story goes that one of the serving-men in bringing in a dish slipped -one foot, but saved himself with the other. Earl Godwin being in good -spirits, perhaps, at the termination of the almost endless grace, -attempted a joke--a somewhat hazardous venture before the Confessor. -‘So should one brother support the other,’ quoth he. Edward was down -upon him in a moment. ‘So might I have been now assisted by my brother -Alfred, if Earl Godwin had not prevented it.’ The Earl protested that -he had no connection with that murder; ‘might the next morsel be his -last if he had.’ He ate and tried to swallow, but the food and the lie -stuck in his throat, and he fell dead under the table.” - -“I have read, somewhere,” observed Mr. Hertford, “that there is no -truth in that story beyond the fact that the Earl died suddenly at a -banquet here, and was buried in the Cathedral. It has a Norman flavour.” - -We find that Henry II. bought a place in Winchester for his mews, which -remained in the hands of John and Henry III.[12] John in his fifth year -gave to Matthew Wallop “the custody of our house and castle gates and -gaol in Winchester for the service of his keeping at his cost our birds -put in the Castle to be mewed, finding one servant to mew them, and -keep throughout the mewing time. And he shall find three hare hounds -for each season.”[13] John also ordered a Columbarium to be made in the -Castle.[14] - -[Illustration: Castle Hall.] - -While we were admiring the exterior of the hall I thought of the grim -ornaments with which the Castle was once adorned. Here was placed by -Edward I. a quarter of the last native Prince of Wales. Here Queen -Isabella exhibited the head of Earl Despencer. As I was musing, a -labourer came out, and we were enabled to enter the building. - -“Magnificent!” exclaimed Mr. Hertford. “What a length and height; and -look at those tall, blue shafts of Purbeck marble!” - -“Those pillars and aisles,” I replied, “have led some to mistake it for -a church. But although we read of four chapels in the Castle--the chief -of which was to St. Josse--this was not among them. The length is 110 -feet. The old entrance to the hall, the mouldings of which are still -visible, was used towards the end of the last century, and corresponded -with that still existing on the south side.”[15] - -[Sidenote: Arthur’s Table.] - -At the west end are the remains of a daïs, and a curious orifice, -supposed to be for communicating by word of mouth with the State -apartments. Over this, like a large target, hangs the famous “round -table” of King Arthur--a mystery for centuries. In the reign of -Henry III., who was much here, and had his birth-room in the Castle -coloured with fresh green, when there were statues in the porch, -marble pillars, and a painted chamber, there were also here a “Mappa -Mundi” and a “Wheel of Fortune.” The latter seems suggestive, and the -Round Tower, built by Wykeham, at Windsor, and called the Round Table, -may have been taken from this; but we hear nothing of it till Henry -VI.’s reign,[16] and the present painting dates from Henry VIII., who -specially showed the work of art to the Emperor Charles V. Round it -are inscribed the names of Arthur’s knights, and in the centre is a -picture of a king in voluminous robes, much more like a Tudor monarch -than a British warrior.[17] Tradition says that Arthur founded this -Castle. He and his companions, when divested of their French motley, -represent the conflict which raged between the Christian Britons and -the pagan Saxons. It is said that he gained a great victory in this -neighbourhood, and so fondly did the conquered and oppressed natives -recall the memory of their beloved champion, that they fancied he would -come again-- - - “Thence to Britain shall return, - If right prophetic rolls I learn, - Borne on Victory’s spreading plume, - His ancient sceptre to resume, - His knightly table to restore, - And brave the tournaments of yore.” - -Henry VII. was not above superstitious or worldly considerations, and -the legendary foundation of the Castle induced him to bring Elizabeth -to this city to be delivered, and to call his first son Arthur.[18] - -[Sidenote: The Castle.] - -Great improvements were made in the Castle by Henry III., for which -the forest of Bere was mainly contributory. The order is extant in -which the verderers are commanded to sell the underwood and give the -money for the construction of a great hall at the Castle,[19] and oaks -were to be cut for forming the roof.[20] This forest, extending from -Winchester to Southampton, would be able to furnish ample money and -material. The stone for building and repairing the Castle was to be -brought from “Kerebroc,” in the Isle of Wight.[21] - -Twenty-five thousand slates were placed upon the roof, and the queen’s -chamber was panelled with Irish oak. By the time Elizabeth came to the -throne, the Castle was in a somewhat dilapidated state. From a letter -of the Commissioners in 1570, we find that the ditch and rampart on -the west part of the Castle was overgrown with moss and small bushes; -it contained three acres. The Castle green was let, together with the -“old walls and ruinous void romes” there--the lessee to keep it clean -for Sessions and Assizes. The Mayor had lately repaired the roof of the -hall; the Queen had spent much money on its south aisle, but the north -aisle was so greatly decayed that the whole edifice was in danger of -falling. After this report,[22] some repairs were probably undertaken. - -“Do not we see,” I continued, “as we stand and gaze at this splendid -structure, the pomp of history sweep slowly past? Here advance Henry -I. and his bride Matilda of Scotland,[23] and Cœur de Lion returned -from captivity. Henry the Third and the three Edwards were more -frequent in their visits and banquets.[24] Here is the studious young -William of Wykeham, secretary to Sir John de Scures, Constable of the -Castle. What is all this bridal array?--Henry IV. and Joan of Brittany. -Here the warlike Henry V., who may be claimed as a Winchester boy, is -receiving the French ambassadors[25] who came with three hundred men; -and here his gentle son obtains less perishable honours as he lays down -the plan of Eton College on the lines of Wykeham’s foundation. Here -is the bluff and jovial Henry VIII., holding high festival for the -handsome young Emperor Charles V.; and here is melancholy Mary, doating -on her faithless Philip. - -[Sidenote: The Hall.] - -“James I. gave the Castle to Benjamin Tichborne--a name recalling -a recent contest; and Charles II. demolished most of it for the -construction of his more luxurious palace. - -“In Edward the First’s reign the Bishop of St. Andrews though only a -prisoner of war who had opposed the King in Scotland, was confined -here in irons. It was then the rule rather than the exception for such -prisoners to be chained. A Parliament was held here by Isabella and -Mortimer, and a cruel scene then followed the incarceration of Edmund -of Woodstock. He was brought out in front of the main entrance to -the Castle (through the city wall) to be executed. There he was kept -“from morn till dewy eve” in a state of painful suspense, for, to the -credit of all, no one would be induced to do the cruel deed. At last a -prisoner, to save his own life, decapitated him.” - -“I have often wondered,” observed Mr. Hertford, “how any one could be -induced to perform this odious office against the lives of celebrated -men. We know the difficulty there was in the case of Charles I., how -disguises were used and what suspicions there were as to who were the -two executioners.” - -“We have another sensational scene here,” I proceeded, “before the -time of Charles. When James I. came to the throne the Castle Green -was again reddened with blood. Eleven persons, among them Raleigh, -were tried for conspiring against the King and State. Several were -condemned, as were Lord Grey de Wilton and Lord Cobham, who were tried -in this hall. - -“I can see,” I said, “two men pacing up and down here in great mental -perturbation. Three have already suffered on the Green, and Markham -and Lord Grey, having been led forth in all the pomp of woe to -execution, have been respited for a couple of hours and turned into -‘Arthur’s Hall,’ to gain what cold comfort they can from it. Then -Cobham was led forth, and Markham and Grey were brought out to meet -him. Reprieves were given--a great shout from the assembled multitude -rent the air--and the pardoned looked at each other and felt as if they -were alive from the dead. Raleigh saw all this performance from his -prison, and was agreeably surprised to hear that he also was not to be -executed. The Court was in the Castle during this sensational period, -and the ladies were amusing themselves with small games such as ‘Rise -pig and go,’ and ‘One penny follow me.’ Lady Arabella Stuart was with -them in whose behalf the conspiracy was said to have been formed.”[26] - -[Sidenote: Cruel Sentence.] - -We now come to what happened here at the end of the Civil War, when -Charles was within Carisbrooke Castle, in the Isle of Wight. When the -Commissioners left, Hammond, who was in charge of him, dismissed all -the royal attendants. This became known in the neighbourhood, where -the people were Royalists, and caused great indignation. Thereupon a -Captain Burleigh, a man of good family in the island, who had been -captain of one of the King’s ships and afterwards a general of ordnance -in the army, had a drum beaten in Newport, and called upon the people -to take arms and storm the Castle. It was a rash and childish project, -and sensible people held aloof from it. Burleigh probably thought that -he could not be much punished, and no one had yet suffered for treason -in supporting the King. But the Parliament took a new departure. -Hammond arrested him, and sent him a prisoner to Winchester Castle, and -soon a ferocious judge, whose name was Wild, was sent down to condemn -him. Sentence in the usual form was passed, and the unfortunate man -sentenced to be hanged and quartered here. - -Shortly afterwards Charles himself passed a night here on his road from -Hurst Castle to Windsor, whence he took his last journey to London. -Many of the gentry and others came to meet him, and the Mayor and -Corporation prepared an address; but Lieutenant Cobbett warned them, -and having fresh in their memories the tragic end of poor Burleigh, -they desisted and craved forgiveness. - -[Sidenote: Surrender of the Castle.] - -At no period in its history did the Castle occupy so conspicuous -a position as during the Civil War. From 1642 to 1645, there was -frequently a conflict raging here between the red scarf and the buff. -In the first-named year it was in the neglected state into which it -had gradually fallen, and the Cavaliers who took refuge in it, found -it an inadequate place of safety, as there were no cannon on its walls -and Waller’s troops “beset them with musqueteers and Horse, and lay -perdues under the wall so that not a man of them could stir.” At eleven -at night the Cavaliers sounded for a parley--in vain--and the besiegers -next morning, lacking artillery and petards, prepared a quantity of -faggots and tar barrels to burn the Castle gate. Then negotiations -commenced, and it was agreed that Lord Grandison should surrender -the Castle with all arms, horses, and money, the garrison being -granted their lives. A scandalous scene of pillage ensued, contrary -to conditions. The men were stripped of their clothes “four or five -pulling at one cloak like hounds at the leg of a dead horse,” and the -officers were robbed of their purses. Waller left Lord Grandison and -some prisoners in the Castle, under a small guard, but he found means -to escape to the King at Oxford, and suggested to Sir William Ogle that -he should try to rescue the prisoners. Sir Richard Tichborne assisted, -and in three days they were in possession both of the Castle and of -the arms and ammunition of the enemy. Sir William now strengthened the -Castle, and made it “as inaccessible as art could invent,” considering -it the key to the whole Western country. He was assisted by the Mayor -and citizens, and put the defences of the city into a better state -than they had been for years. Soon afterwards the Royalist Western -army of 3,000 Foot and 1,500 Horse entered the town under Lord Hopton. -Winchester was generally a loyal town, but there were some weak-kneed -people there, who replied to the King that “they could not be justly -blamed for endeavouring to secure their lives and to keep their wives -and daughters from rapine and destruction.” - -After the city had been three times plundered by Waller it again -held out for the King, and was finally taken by Cromwell at the end -of September, 1645. He advanced against it with three regiments of -infantry and 2000 cavalry. This strong force and the memory of past -defeats caused the resistance to be half-hearted--indeed, the Mayor -said he would try to bring about a capitulation. After the gate was -fired, the Roundheads entered and the Royalists fled to the Castle, -which was soon surrounded. Mines and batteries were immediately -commenced. “We have cooped up in the Castle 120 Horse and 400 Foot, -and all the malignant gentry and clergy of this Hampshire and Sussex, -with many Papists and Jesuits.” Doctor Curle, the Bishop of Winchester, -remained firm to the King on this trying occasion, and suffered -accordingly. Cromwell gave him permission to leave the city, but he -refused to accept it, and went into the Castle with the soldiers. But -next day, Thursday, when the batteries were placed opposite the walls, -the Bishop thought he would as soon be somewhere else, and sent to -Cromwell to say he would accept his offer. This advance was refused, -and he was told he would be treated as any other prisoner of war. - -[Sidenote: Attack by Cromwell.] - -On Friday the battery of six guns was perfected, and on Saturday -it began to play. Lord Ogle hoisted a red flag of defiance. -Notwithstanding Cromwell’s Puritan views, he did not make Sunday a day -of rest, nor did he keep it holy, though he intermingled prayer and -preaching with battering--firing altogether two hundred cannon balls in -the day. The Royalists replied; sometimes firing into the High Street, -which became unsafe for passengers, and at one time making a sally -and beating the Roundheads from their guns for the moment. But the -storm proved too severe, the red flag was carried away by a shot, and -granadoes did great execution--one breaking through into the hall and -killing three men.[27] A wide breach was made near the “Black Tower” -and the Royalists called out “A parley, a parley for God’s sake! Let us -have articles! Will you not hear us for a parley?” - -We might have expected a more stubborn defence, for the Castle was -strongly fortified. If the besiegers had entered the breach they would -have had six distinct works and a drawbridge to pass over. Moreover -victuals were abundant. - -Cromwell now wrote the following unctuous letter to Fairfax:-- - - “SIR,--This is the addition of another mercy. You see God is not weary - of doing you good. I confess, Sir, His favour to you is as visible - when He comes by His power upon the hearts of your enemies, making - them quit places of strength to you, as when He gives courage to - your soldiers to attempt hard things. His goodness in this is much - to be acknowledged; for the Castle was well manned with six hundred - and eighty Horse and Foot, there being near two hundred gentlemen, - officers and their servants, well victualled with 15 cwt. of cheese, - very great store of wheat and beer, nearly 20 barrels of powder, seven - pieces of cannon; the works were exceeding good and strong. It’s very - likely it would have cost much blood to have gained it by storm. This - is repeated to you that God may have all the praise, for it’s all His - due. Sir, I rest your most humble servant, - - “OLIVER CROMWELL. - “WINCHESTER, _6th October, 1645_.” - -[Sidenote: Cavaliers Disguised.] - -Among the spoil were three or four hogsheads of French wines and a -hundred and twelve hogsheads of strong beer. The Cavaliers felt a -natural reluctance that all this good tipple should go down rebel -throats, and seem to have done their best to prevent such a calamity. -The enemy were by the articles to enter at eight on Monday morning, -but the surrender had to be delayed until after two, owing to the -intoxicated state of the garrison. “Viscount Ogle was as drunk as a -beggar,” writes an eye-witness. “I had come sooner had not my Lord Ogle -and his company been so unwilling to part with their sack and strong -beer, of which they drank so liberally at their farewell that few of -them, as it is their manner, could get up on their horses without -help.” The Bishop and his chaplain came out in their long gowns and -cassocks, and were granted an escort to protect them from insult. Dr. -Curle died a few years later in poverty. - -The Castle was conferred by Parliament on Sir W. Waller, brother-in-law -to Sir Henry Tichborne, to whom it belonged. It had been in the Waller -family, who were connected with the Tichbornes. Waller sold the Hall to -the County and the Castle to the Corporation of Winchester.[28] - -The Parliaments of England sat occasionally in this Hall for four -hundred years after the Conquest. Since Henry VIII.’s reign county -business has been transacted here, and from Cromwell’s time the Law -Courts have been established, the space being divided, the upper part -devoted to the Crown Court, and the lower to Nisi Prius. Generations -of judges here shivered on the Bench, but at length a successful -demand was made that New Courts should be constructed at the east end, -and that this hall should be only the vestibule and waiting-room. -During a long period the graceful pillars we now behold were portly -and shapeless, encased in cement a foot thick, but in course of time -the witnesses, plaintiffs, and defendants who were kept kicking their -heels here by “the law’s delays” did some good, for they knocked off -the lower part of the cement and the marble became visible. About -fourteen years ago it was determined to try the effect of removing the -incrustation, and the operation having proved successful on one of the -pillars near the door, the rest were soon “translated.” - -[Sidenote: Palace of Charles II.] - -Passing through the south door we found ourselves beside the one -remaining tower, massive in strength and looking down from the height -upon a garden where once ran the castle moat. On our right rises the -high wall of a very different structure--Charles II.’s red brick -palace. The proportions are magnificent and the whole effect worthy -of its great designer, Wren. The main entrance with its six lofty -pillars, acanthus-leaved capitals, and heavy entablature surmounted by -the royal arms is scarcely visible from any point in the town, owing to -the conglomeration of houses below it, but a glimpse can be obtained -from a stable yard in Trafalgar Street, turning out of the High Street. - -Charles II. laid the first stone in 1683. Evelyn writes in that year -that the palace was estimated to cost £35,000, and the surveyor was -purchasing land for a park to be ten miles in circumference. There was -to be a cupola over it visible at sea. After Newmarket was consumed -by fire, the King was more earnest to render Winchester the seat of -his autumnal field diversions. Two years later Evelyn was here, and -observed that £20,000 had been expended on the palace, but his Majesty -(James II.) did not seem to encourage the work. Queen Anne surveyed it -in person, and would have completed it for the Prince of Denmark had -he lived. The first use made of it was for the incarceration of French -prisoners of war in 1756. It must have been at that time a dreadful -place; there were sometimes as many as five thousand prisoners in it. -In 1792 it was occupied by a number of the exiled French clergy,[29] -and a few years later was fitted up as a barrack, for which it has -been ever since used. - -Returning from the Castle to the Westgate we found that the keys of the -Tower were kept at St. John’s Hospital at the other end of the High -Street, and that it was necessary to obtain the permission of the civic -authorities. This caused some delay, but when I returned we entered, -and, ascending the rugged stairs, came to a cell where prisoners were -until lately confined. Proceeding higher we reached the chamber over -the arch--a handsome room with an ancient carved mantel-piece. The -cause of the precautions taken with regard to visitors now become -intelligible; for here are the archives of the city--volumes of records -beginning with Philip and Mary, and piles of ancient vellum rolls. I -observed a fine charter of Elizabeth’s reign, commencing with an etched -portrait of the Queen, as a young girl, and a grandiloquent reference -to Mary and Philip, as sovereigns of England, Scotland, France, Naples, -Jerusalem, and Ireland. The rarest of these old documents were for a -long time thought to be lost, but when, some ten years ago, inquiry was -being made in a solicitor’s office in Peter’s Street, for a charter of -Richard II., one of the clerks said: “Oh, we have a box full of these -old things,” showing some parchments. And here, upon examination, were -found twenty of these ancient records! - -[Sidenote: The City Coffer.] - -In this room is the huge old city chest, nearly ten feet long by four -wide. It has three locks and different keys, and long chains and rings -by which it could be carried about like the Ark of the Israelites. - -“From what we read of the propensities of the Jews,” said Mr. Hertford, -“I should say they would have preferred such an ark as this to their -own.” - -“Well, some of them would, perhaps,” I replied. “Their ark carried the -law and holy things, but this contained the coin, and also the gold and -silver plate of the city.” - -It was heavily drawn upon in Charles I.’s reign for the King’s benefit. -On December 30, 1643, there were taken out for the maintenance of the -army:-- - - One silver ewer, weighing 33 oz. - Three silver bowls, 31 oz. - Two silver wine bowls, 15 oz. - One gilt bowl with cover, 31 oz. - One great silver salt, 28 oz. - One silver tankard, 19 oz. - One silver basin, 74 oz. - -Previously they had sent him £300 raised by sale of plate. - -“Why, the good aldermen could scarcely have left themselves a cup for -drinking the King’s health,” observed Mr. Hertford. - -“Nor had they much wine for that purpose,” I added. “They had sent the -King already a sum of £1,000, and the Roundheads tapped them pretty -freely.” - -This large chest reminds me of another there is at Upham, in which, -when at Marwell Hall near this, a girl playing hide-and-seek concealed -herself. She could not raise the lid, and nothing was known about her -mysterious disappearance until years afterwards when her skeleton was -found--a melancholy treasure. - -Passing through the gate I admired the exterior. There was -machicolation over it for giving assailants a warm reception, perhaps -because there was no ditch in front of it. There was a moat on each -side, but on account of the difference of level, they did not meet -here. Milner says that there was part of a Saxon chapel adhering to -this building. - -As we were about to move on, the magic of history brought a scene -before my mind. Stay! what is that concourse and cavalcade before the -gate? I hear a voice proclaiming-- - -“Let no merchant or other for these sixteen days, within a circuit of -sixteen leagues round the Fair, sell, buy, or set out for sale, any -merchandise in any place but the Fair, under a penalty of forfeiture of -goods to the Bishop.” - -The Mayor is presenting the keys of the gate, but what sour -countenances have he and his fellow citizens! Is not this what took -place in the fourteenth century, on the eve of St. Giles’ fair? - -[Sidenote: The Plague.] - -As it was a fine autumnal day I now strolled right away by myself for a -country walk. Just before me was an obelisk raised to commemorate the -Plague of 1666, when the markets had to be placed outside the town. It -stands upon the very stone on which exchanges were then made, the money -being dropped into a bowl of water to avoid contagion. I saw in large -letters on the obelisk that it was erected by the “Society of Natives,” -somewhat suggestive of oysters, or of some primitive race descended -from them, but I found the reference was to an association formed -immediately after the plague, with the benevolent object of assisting -the widows and orphans of those who had died. - -An old man told me that when at work in a cellar near this, in Newburgh -Street, he found, seven feet down, about a hundred rusty old swords. -He was told they were Saxon, and that if he had sent them to the Queen -he should never have had to do another day’s work, “a consummation,” -according to his views, “devoutly to be wished.” Some of them were sent -to the Museum, but as I could not find them there, I doubted whether -they were really Saxon. - -Proceeding towards the country I saw on my right the Church of St. -Paul’s in course of construction--the work seems to have fallen into -a state of chronic debility. It stands on the foundations of the old -Church of St. Anastasius, and this district which seems fresh and -cheerful is mostly historical from disease. It was depopulated by a -pestilence in 1348, and never until lately recovered. At the end of the -fifteenth century this church, and one with the pleasant name of “St. -Mary’s of the Valley,” were taken down, and Wyke Chapel made the parish -church. - -On the left I passed a red brick building, with some handsome trees -beside it. This was the Union Workhouse--a bright, comfortable-looking -edifice, which ought to cheer the hearts of any farmers and landowners -who are thinking of soon entering it. At the back they will find a -public recreation ground, called “Oram’s Arbour,” with seats, where -they can rest and reflect upon their past fortunes, and bless Oram, -who, having a lease of great length, generously surrendered it on -condition that the ground should be free to the citizens for ever. -There were, forty years ago, on the western side of it, where houses -have been built, a fosse and bank, probably made by the Royalists in -Cromwell’s time, though some have regarded them as a part of the old -British defences of the town. - -[Sidenote: Wyke.] - -Farther on I passed a row of cottages with brightly flowering gardens, -and after continuing up the hill between hedges white with “travellers’ -joy,” for about half a mile, descended beneath overhanging larches, and -came to the village of Wyke, with its little boulevard of pollard lime -trees. Having obtained the keys at an adjoining cottage, I entered the -tiny church beneath the Norman arch, and looked at the East window, -which contains bits of old glass and has coloured scroll work round it. - -The chapel is mentioned by Henry de Blois, but was rebuilt in Henry -VIII.’s reign. Within the chancel is a stone in the wall about eighteen -inches square, in memory of Dr. Harpesfelde, who died in 1550. This -person was a nephew of Johanna, Viscountess Lisle, who bequeathed to -him as a “scholar of Bologna,” twelve pounds, six silver spoons, a -silver cup, and a gown. He was made by Wolsey Commissary-general of -the diocese, and assisted at the enthronement of Gardiner. Towards the -end of his life he lived here, and went about in a horse litter. The -engraver has made his inscription conspicuous by forming the chief -letters very large and inserting the others inside them--an early -suggestion of shorthand. - -[Illustration: THE EPITAPH OF DR. HARPESFELDE. - - HERE LYETH - MR DOCTR HA - RPESEECDE PSON - HERE 1550 APRI III] - -The greater part of the present building is of Henry VIII.’s time. -There are here abundant monuments to the Godwin family. I was somewhat -amused at one, which, after setting forth a long catalogue of virtues, -ended by bidding the exhausted reader--“Blush, if you do not venerate -the name of Thomas Godwin.”[30] - -Just opposite the door there is in the wall a curious little brass, -about a foot high and six inches wide. Many people come to take -rubbings of it. Here is represented St. Christopher carrying the infant -Christ. The saint is wading through a stream, and in his anxiety to -behold the face of his sacred burden seems to have dislocated his neck. -The inscription beneath runs as follows:-- - - =Here lieth will’m Complyn - & Annes his wife yᵉ Whiche - will’m decessid yᵉ xxj day of - mayj yᵉ yere of oure lord - mc.c.c.clxxxxviiii. Also this be - ze dedis yᵗ ze said will’m hath - down to this Church of Wike - yᵗ is to say frest dedycacion - of yᵉ Church xlˢ & to make - newe bellis to yᵉ sam Church - xˡ also gave to yᵉ halloyeng - of yᵉ grettest bell vjˢ. viij. d. - & for yᵉ testimonyall’ of the - dedicacion of yᵉ sam Church - vjˢ viii. d. on whos soules - ihu have mercy Amen.= - -I observed that _z_ is here twice put for _y_--and the fact reminded me -of the pronunciation of the agricultural people here. - -As I left the quaint little sanctuary I found an old labouring man -standing outside gazing at it wistfully in an attitude of meditation. -I was glad to see this. “The poorest,” I thought, “can appreciate the -ancient and the beautiful.” But his reflections were more practical. -As I passed he gave me a curious look, and said, with a twinkle in his -grey eyes-- - -“Richest living about Winchester, zir.” - -“Indeed,” I replied. “How much do you make it?” - -“Eight hundred and fifty, zir.” - -“The rector would be glad to receive half that,” I returned. - -Resuming my walk I soon came in sight of a white cylindrical building -with a globular top, on the high ground of Harestock. As I saw my -agricultural friend trudging after me I stopped to ask him about it. - -“What is that?” I inquired. - -“That? Oh that is a place for looking at the stars. It belongs to -Captain Knight; he is a great astrologer.” - -[Sidenote: Littleton.] - -As I did not want my horoscope cast I passed on, and proceeded along a -hilly road between high banks, where grew the blue scabious and long -spikes of yellow agrimony and mullein, till in two miles I descended -into the village of Littleton. The church has been restored and thus -lost much of its interest, but there is here a dark square font of -massive stone, by which we think we can see the immediate descendants -of the Norman invaders standing to have their children christened. -There is also a brass on the floor in front of the chancel dating from -1493. Opening into the churchyard is an old cottage parsonage, in which -the clergyman formerly lived when he was-- - - “Passing rich on forty pounds a year.” - -On one side was the large, low kitchen with its wide hearth; on the -other, the little room which was the parson’s drawing-room, parlour, -and study.[31] - -Two years ago there was a great conflagration opposite this church, a -number of cottages were burnt, and some of the villagers had narrow -escapes. - -This is three miles from Winchester, and a mile further on I came to -Mr. Carrick Moore’s house, his large stables for racehorses, and a -field laid out with jumps for training steeplechasers. The racecourse -is not far from this on the right. Racing has long been a favourite -amusement at Winchester. In 1634 a cup was provided by the city; and -again in 1705, when Queen Anne was here, the kindly civic chest was -not appealed to in vain. This was an improvement on the old sport -of bull-baiting, for which it had been ordered that two Winchester -butchers should provide two or three times a year one “sufficient -fighting bull,” the other butchers contributing 6d. each a year. - -At this point there is on the left a distant view of the woods of -Mr. Vanderbyl, and passing on along grassy banks, spangled with rock -cistus, I came to a pool at the commencement of Crawley. The village -runs up a hill, at the top of which is the church adjacent to the -beautiful grounds of Crawley Court (Lord Kinnaird). The church is -reached through an avenue of limes: it contains some small Norman -pillars, a brass recording diffusely the virtues of a rector named -Reniger, who died in 1606, and a chest which once performed the double -service of strongbox and communion table. - -From this point I returned to the pool, and taking the road to the -right came in about two miles to the woods of Lainston on the right, -and a double avenue of limes opposite the lodge of Mr. Vanderbyl. A -mile farther on a loftier avenue opens, at the end of which stood -Lainston House. I cannot say that I saw it clearly for the sun dazzled -me, setting directly behind it. - -[Sidenote: A Maid of Honour.] - -Close to the house stand the ruins of Lainston Church, picturesquely -situated in dense woods. Here one fine August morning, in 1744, the -gay Miss Chudleigh was privately married to Hervey, a naval officer, -who became third Earl of Bristol. Notwithstanding this, and her having -two children, she continued to be called “Miss Chudleigh,” and to be a -maid of honour. George II. affected to be in love with her, and even -went so far as to kiss her at a party. Twenty-five years afterwards she -contracted a bigamous marriage with Pierrepont, Duke of Kingston, which -was set aside. She was a prominent figure in Ranelagh Gardens, and her -dress seems to have harmonized with her performances. Walpole says that -on one occasion she appeared at a masquerade as Iphigenia, but “as -naked as Andromeda.”[32] - -[Illustration: _Sparsholt Church._] - -In this vicinity, but lying off the high road and consequently little -visited by strangers, is the scattered village of Sparsholt, with its -two inns, one shop, and post office. It was perhaps a more important -place in ancient days, for Roman relics have been found here. The -church is small; its architecture varies from transitional Norman to -Perpendicular. During the late restorations the tomb of a priest was -opened, and with him were found a chalice and paten of latten, now in -the vicar’s possession. - -The village water supply is obtained from a well of unusual depth. Over -it is placed a large broad wheel, and the ropes by which the buckets -are lowered and raised are coiled round what may be called the axle. -The water drawer steps on the stairs of the wheel to raise the bucket, -and if unused to the treadmill--which no doubt these happy rustics -are--must be well tired before his efforts are crowned with success. - -Down the road is a stile by which one may enter what is locally known -as the “Avenue,” a lovely piece of woodland scenery, abounding in -noble trees. Here we may pleasantly rest for a while, and listen to -the cooing of wood-pigeons or watch squirrels at their merry gambols. -Through this a path leads to the high road, along which, past Harestock -and Wyke, we reach Winchester again. - - -FOOTNOTES: - - [1] Add. MSS. 6036. - - [2] Pat. Rolls, 8 Henry IV. The foundations of a church with two - monoliths in them have been discovered near St. George’s Street. - - [3] Patent and Close Rolls. - - [4] “Every man having a holding or garden bounding on the High Street - shall enclose the same with a sufficient pale or stone wall upon pain - of 20s.” (Edw. VI., Black Book). Thatch was forbidden in this street - in 1652. - - [5] Add. MSS. 6036. - - [6] He adds that there is outside the city a dry chalky down where - the air is worth sixpence a pint. - - [7] It then belonged to the Mayor and Corporation, who had it - repaired. - - [8] See “Historic Winchester,” by Misses Bramston and Leroy. - - [9] “In castello Wincestre apud Wintoniam in thesauro.” Mr. Hubert - Hall thinks that the book was removed soon afterwards to London, but - Mr. Round is of opinion that it remained in Winchester until the last - quarter of the twelfth century. I cannot venture to decide a question - upon which such eminent authorities are at variance. - - [10] In an engraving in my possession, dated 1787, part of this old - wall is seen adhering to the east end of the hall, and the entrance - is in the original place. - - [11] We read of the “Hermits” and “Black” towers. Mr. Stopher informs - me that, judging by the base of the North Tower, uncovered in 1876, - “these towers were some of the finest in the kingdom, with handsome - double plinths.” - - [12] Patent Rolls, 48 Henry III. - - [13] Patent Rolls, 5 John. - - [14] Close Rolls, 7 John. The houses in Winchester, called La Parrok, - were given to Galfro de Hanville, for keeping girfalcons by Henry - III. (6th year, Close Rolls). - - [15] There are traces of round windows near the roof, which have been - walled up, and there are some iron hooks remaining, on which shutters - were hung before glass was permanently inserted. - - [16] Henry V. was here, and at his funeral Arthur’s traditional - bearings, three crowns, were carried. - - [17] The table had twelve legs, and it is supposed that it was made - round to avoid any invidious precedence, and that it was intended for - the feasting of the knights at a tournament. There was generally a - desire to throw some legendary glory around these “solemnities.” The - paint, except on the lines between the segments, has not been touched - since Henry VIII.’s time. - - [18] Some persons think that the legends of King Arthur have been - wrongly attached to this neighbourhood through Winchester, “Gwent,” - being mistaken for the “Gwent” in Monmouthshire. - - [19] Pat. Rolls, 16 Henry III. m 5. There was a hall here previously. - - [20] Pat. 45 Henry III. - - [21] Close Rolls, 6 Henry III. - - [22] Cotton. Titus, B. ii. 242. - - [23] He took her from the Nunnery of St. Mary’s, at Romsey. Rufus - went to court her, but the abbess showed him the convent garden with - the “Romsey roses,” where he saw her attired like a nun. She was - buried in this Cathedral with the inscription “called by the English - Molde the good Queen.” - - [24] Henry III. threw the Winchester jury into the lowest dungeon - of the Castle because they would not find guilty thirty highwaymen, - friends of theirs, whom he condemned to be hanged. - - [25] The King’s spokesman on the occasion was the celebrated - Archbishop Chicheley--originally a poor boy whom Wykeham met on the - road and patronized. - - [26] See notice in “Historic Winchester,” by Misses Bramston and - Leroy. - - [27] There is a ball in the Museum which fell in the Castle Hall. - - [28] An interesting account of “The Civil War in and around - Winchester” has been published by the Rev. G. N. Godwin. - - [29] There is in the Bodleian a book of rules to be observed by these - priests. They were to avoid going out together in large numbers so as - not to attract attention. - - [30] Mr. Baigent has written an interesting little book on Wyke. - - [31] Wyke, Compton, and Chilcombe were given to the monastery to - support commemorative festivals, but Littleton for the entertainment - of guests. - - [32] A picture of her “in Ranelagh costume” was long hanging in the - Chelsea bunhouse. - - - - -SECOND DAY. - -“God Begot” House--The High Street--Old Guildhall--Butter Cross--King - Alfred--The Penthouse--St. Maurice’s Church--The Bell and Crown--New - Guildhall--Museum--Archives--St. Mary’s Nunnery--St. John’s - Hospital--Soke Prison--St. Giles’ Hill--The Fair. - - -[Illustration: THE BUTTER CROSS AND PENTHOUSE.] - -Next morning we started in the opposite direction--eastward down the -High Street. On the left-hand side we soon came to a curiously narrow -street or alley, running beside a large bookseller’s shop, and entering -it saw above us an immense timber-crossed gable, leaning over so as -almost to touch the opposite houses. Further down the alley--in which -the “Royal Oak” public-house, once the “Cross Keys,” is situated--we -still see above us a line of overhanging stories. We can walk round -this block, and return into the High Street by St. Peter’s Street. - -[Illustration: Royal Oak Passage] - -This building, on which is inscribed in large letters “God-begot -House,” is at present occupied by the two establishments of Mr. -Perkins, a draper, and Miss Pamplin, a stationer. From the house of the -former the panelling has been removed, but behind the shop is a small -room with a richly stuccoed ceiling. - -Miss Pamplin showed us over her house with great courtesy. The upper -part is wainscoted with oak. The drawing-room is handsome--low, of -course--and it has many beams in the ceiling, radiating from the -centre. The walls are covered with carved panelling, the most elaborate -part, over the fireplace, exhibiting small round-headed arches with -intricate mouldings, while the opposite wall is adorned with lines -of large rosettes. The bedroom in the roof at the back shows some -curious woodwork; from it there is a good view of the back of this -old-world edifice, with its long-tiled roofs sloping inwards to a -central court. - -[Sidenote: God-begot House.] - -This house, which dates from 1667, is large, and let in apartments. It -stands on the site of the Church of St. Peter’s, in Macellis--that is, -in the shambles--and was surrounded by butchers’ stalls, St. Peter’s -Street having been called Fleshmonger Street. There seems to have been -a house of an ecclesiastical character, called “God-begot,” adjoining -the church, and the privileges of the spot are said to have been -originally granted by Queen Emma, the mother of Edward the Confessor, -to the Priory of St. Swithun. It was a sanctuary--a place of refuge for -the guilty--and many conflicts arose about it between the civil and -ecclesiastical authorities, sometimes men being forcibly dragged out of -it. Strange to say, it was also a manor. A record was kept here; courts -were held, and judgments delivered. - -On the opposite side of the street is the old Guildhall, in front of -which a large clock is held out over the street by an arm of old carved -wood. - -[Illustration: The Old Guildhall.] - -“Why it looks as if it might fall on one’s head,” said Miss Hertford. - -“If you have any fear of that,” I replied, “be assured there is -nothing in it; the case is empty, the works being in the curfew tower -above.” - -“What is the meaning of the three swords over it?” inquired Miss -Hertford. “They remind me of a conjuring trick.” - -“They represent the arms of Paulet, Marquess of Winchester,” I replied; -“to whom the small fee farm-rent of the city, once belonging to the -Crown, is still paid. The most remarkable thing about this clock is -that it is very troublesome, as like other old timepieces, it requires -to be wound up every day.” - -The old Guildhall was behind the figure of Queen Anne on the first -floor, the ground floor belonging to St. John’s Hospital. This division -preserved the fine oak staircase to the hall, which necessarily led up -from a side street. We went up these stairs, and Miss Hertford observed -they were in a very dirty condition, but, as our guide said they were -used every day for winding and lighting the clock, and ringing the bell -in the curfew tower,[33] we were not much surprised. The panelling -in the old Guildhall has been removed to the new one. No mayor and -aldermen now sit here in state, but there are plenty of gowns, robes, -and collars, for the hall has been formed into the show-rooms of Mr. -King’s drapery establishment. - -[Sidenote: The Butter Cross.] - -The next object that claims our attention is the Butter Cross. It dates -from the reign of Henry VI., when a fraternity employed themselves in -erecting such structures. If we recall past times we shall picture -to ourselves here a motley crowd of market people intermixed with -brethren of the cord and gown, and shall hear much noisy bargaining -going forward. Later on, about 1650, we find a more stately gathering. -The guild of merchants were to meet the Mayor every Sunday here to -accompany him to church. This would seem to have been a compulsory, -rather than a voluntary, meeting, and about seventy years earlier we -find people imprisoned for not attending “sermonds.” - -“It is to be regretted that this disinclination continues,” said Miss -Hertford, “but those who frequent the afternoon services at cathedrals, -cannot fail to observe the desire there is to hear the anthem and avoid -the discourse.” - -In a sketch of this Cross, made in the year 1770,[34] we find the -upper niches vacant. The only ancient figure is that of St. Laurence, -who holds what appears to be a sword, but is in reality intended for -a palm branch. This Cross was sold by the City Corporation to Mr. -Dummer, in the middle of the last century, and was in danger of being -removed (as the Bristol Cross actually was); but the good people of -Winchester rose indignantly when they heard of the intended sacrilege, -forcibly drove away the men engaged to do the objectionable work. - -Under the passage which leads from the Cross to the “Square” is the -door to St. Lawrence’s Church, a building curiously inserted among -houses. It reminds us of the way in which Winchester was in olden -times honey-combed with churches and chapels. This is considered to -be the mother church of Winchester, the bishop is inducted here, and -goes into the tower to ring the bell. Most of the present edifice is -modern, but the tower and east window are of the fifteenth century. -Opposite the entrance to this church is a piece of Norman stone-work -with some ornamental carving upon it--the only specimen of the domestic -architecture of that date in Winchester--perhaps a part of the palace -built here by William the Conqueror, which extended up this side of -the High Street,[35] and across to Minster Street and Lane. The -foundations of an ancient tower of “prodigious strength” were found at -the beginning of the present century by a workman digging in Market -Street. - -We are now close to the “Square” where the Saxon palace probably stood. - -[Sidenote: The Name of England.] - -The Saxon period was in one respect the most remarkable in Winchester, -for the city was then the capital of Wessex, and Wessex became the -mother of England. We read in the old chroniclers that Egbert was -crowned in Winchester Cathedral the first King of England, and that at -a Witenagemot or parliament, held by him here in the year 800, it was -determined that the name of England should supersede that of Britain. -Egbert was the first who united the kingdoms of the heptarchy, and the -probability that he changed the name is increased by the fact that -“Anglia,” which is nowhere found in any document anterior to this time, -begins to appear immediately afterwards.[36] - -[Sidenote: Alfred the Great.] - -But the principal figure that the Saxon palace at Winchester brings -before us, is that of Alfred. He deserved the title of Great better -than many who obtained it, for he was not only victorious in battle, -but was essentially a scholar--indeed his successes were mainly the -result of his study and industry. A shade of melancholy seems always -to have hung over his mind, perhaps due to his constant physical -suffering, though he writes:-- - - “To those who eat - Honeycomb it seems more sweet, - If a man before the tear - Of honey, taste of bitter cheer.” - -In the following lines there is a touch of sadness worthy of the author -of Ecclesiastes:-- - - “Why did your songs to me, - World-loving men, - Say joy belongs to me - Ever as then? - - Why did ye lyingly - Think such a thing, - Seeing how flyingly - Wealth may take wing?” - -Many are accustomed to speak despondingly of the degeneracy of the -nineteenth century, but it sounds strange to hear Alfred condemning the -luxury of his time, which we generally regard as semi-civilized. He -looks back regretfully to the good old days:-- - - “When through all the world there were - No great halls of costly care, - No rich feasts of meat and drink - Neither did they heed or think - Of such jewels then unknown - As our lordlings long to own. - Nor did seamen e’er behold - Nor had heard of gems or gold.” - -We may picture Alfred living in his palace here, surrounded by this -rude magnificence, but with a mind far above its allurements. His life -corroborated the saying that religion is best for both worlds. Perhaps -his devotional tendencies came from his father, who had been a monk. -He ever consorted with learned men, and made great improvements, among -others rendering his fleet more efficient. There was great joy in -Winchester in 899 when, after a sea fight between the Saxons and Danes, -two of the marauders’ ships were captured, and the crews brought here -to the King, and hanged on the gallows. - -A copy of an ancient charter giving property to the church of Evesham -is interesting, as it shows Rufus here in 1100, surrounded by the -bishops of London, Lincoln, and Durham, the abbots of Westminster and -St. Albans, the Chancellor, and many other barons of the whole of -England, at the solemn feast of Easter.[37] It was from this that -Rufus started on his unfortunate expedition into the New Forest. - -It is supposed that somewhere in the neighbourhood of the Conqueror’s -palace were the mint and treasury. It is said that the six mints -established by Athelstan were under the site of the Penthouse.[38] As I -had heard of some vaults remaining which I could not find, I went into -one of the shops there to inquire. - -“Well, sir,” replied the owner, “I have some doubts whether there ever -was any mint here; but,” he added, with a comical expression, “I am -quite certain there is none now.” - -The site of the “Penthouse” was originally occupied by the “Draperie.” -Trade guilds existed here from Henry I.’s time, and this became the -Guildhall. Henry III. ordered that this Draperie Street should be the -“Great Street,” as in the time of his father. In Henry VIII.’s reign we -find the Penthouse mentioned as the “Pentisse.” - -“Such shelters were very welcome a hundred years ago,” said Mr. -Hertford, “before umbrellas were used. You know that some have thought -that in ‘under the rose,’ the word should be ‘rows.’” - -[Sidenote: Murder by a Priest.] - -“Close to this,” I continued, “beside the wall of St. Lawrence’s -Church, a murder took place, in the twenty-first year of Richard II., -which brings before us the lawless state of the times. One James -Dyngeley, a priest, struck a man named Walter Pynchon, through the back -to the heart with a baslard. This weapon was a large dagger suspended -to the girdle, and worn by laymen and by some priests, notwithstanding -an ecclesiastical prohibition. Roger, the parson of St. Lawrence, -claimed the prisoner (as an ecclesiastic) for the Bishop of Winchester, -and he was incarcerated in Wolvesey Castle. From this he broke out with -others on the 5th of December, in the fifth year of Henry IV., but -was pardoned by the King for this and other felonies--a proof of the -influence of the Church in those days.”[39] - -The next church we come to is St. Maurice’s, which is modern, the -fifteenth-century tower has a good Norman doorway looking towards the -Cathedral. There are some old registers belonging to this church which -record the burials of men killed in the Soke (across the bridge), -fighting with the Roundheads in the days of Cromwell. There is a -monument here in which the admirers of William Widmore have made him -ridiculous for ever, by calling him “a friend without guile, and an -apothecary without ostentation;” the less excusable, as they say he was -“an honest Englishman.” - -Opposite this church is a passage leading to the “Bell and Crown.” A -hostel of that name has stood here ever since Henry V.’s reign. The -building now on the spot is old, and has been evidently much altered. -The wall of the staircase is spotted over with a small blue pattern. - -“I thought there was a paper on the wall,” said the landlord, “and was -going to have another put over it; but a gentleman said to me, ‘Do no -such thing. Why, that is stencilled! there is not another house in -Winchester can show such decoration.’” - -Stencilling was much used in the last century. - -“I have heard,” said Mr. Hertford, “that the celebrated Miss Mellon -(Duchess of St. Albans) went about when young with her father and a -company of actors who, as occasion offered, acted plays and stencilled -rooms.” - -The work is performed by placing against the wall a thin piece of metal -on which a pattern has been cut, and then brushing paint over it. This -ornamentation is interesting, as showing the transition from frescoes -and panelling to paper-hangings. - -The passage in front of the “Bell and Crown” was formerly a -large archway, on the eastern side of which there was a hall for -entertainments. - -[Illustration: The Guildhall.] - -The new Guildhall is a handsome and conspicuous modern building, and -stands on the site of the old Globe Hotel. Adjoining it is the Free -Library--one of the first established in England. There are some old -pictures in the Council Chamber, especially one of Charles II., by Sir -P. Lely, given by that monarch to the Corporation. There is also one -of the first Marquess of Winchester--a piece of painted board which -may teach some worldly wisdom. William Paulet was made a peer by Henry -VIII., a marquess by Edward VI., and was High Treasurer under Mary and -Elizabeth. How did he accomplish all this? “By being a willow, not an -oak.”[40] - -[Sidenote: Museum.] - -I mounted the staircase to visit the Museum, which is at the top -of the building. The greater part of the treasures it contains are -“prehistoric,” and lent by Lord Northesk during his life. There is here -one of the finest collections in existence of stone axes and arrow -heads, and specimens from barbarous countries of our own day, showing -how they were hafted and fastened with sinews or matting. - -But I felt more interested in the local antiquities. Here is a Roman -pavement, found at the corner of Minster Lane, about a hundred yards -in front of the west gate of the Cathedral. It is only a segment, -and the preservation of it cost £300, which may account for other -remains of this kind being allowed to perish. The depth at which it -was found was ten feet, so that we may conclude it was laid down soon -after the Romans arrived, unless some accidental circumstances led -to accumulations over it. The specimens of Roman pottery show us the -extent of their town here, for some pieces were found in Water Lane, -just over the eastern bridge, while others were dug up in Hyde Street, -on the extreme north-west of the city. - -Opposite these remains we find a brave row of weights and -measures--standard measures for England were first introduced by Edgar -at Winchester. Some good citizens maintain with pardonable vanity -that one of Edgar’s measuring vessels is still here, but that is not -the case. I hoped to be able to hang a story on one of the pegs that -good king had put in the Saxon cups; but no material proof of his -precautions to prevent tippling or cheating remains. The existing -measures date from Henry VII. There is his bushel--a great bronze -basin, bearing his name, with an emblematic Lancastrian rose. At the -one extremity of a yard measure I found the letter H, at the other E, -which I attributed to Henry and Elizabeth of York, who were certainly -at opposite ends of the stick, but I was informed that E stood for the -Tudor Elizabeth. - -[Sidenote: Archives.] - -In glass frames are displayed some of the archives of the city. Here -is a photo of Henry II.’s charter “civibus meis Wint.,” 1160; it has -been said that there was an earlier one. The terms are general, and the -contractions numerous and puzzling to the uninitiated--the whole being -comprised in a piece of vellum not six inches square. The writing, -which was clear in those days, contrasts here with some spidery -cacography of later age. - -This charter raised the Mayor of Winchester above all other civic -officials in England. But at Richard I.’s coronation a dispute arose -between the mayors of London and Winchester as to which should be -Butler, and which Clerk of the Kitchen--the former being the higher -office. The decision was in favour of London, but in compensation the -King gave Winchester a very liberal charter. - -In a list of ancient usages of Winchester, which existed earlier -than the thirteenth century, when this document recording them was -written, we find ordinances about various trades--the “bakere” and the -“brewstere of myste” are specially mentioned. - -“Also everych bakere of ye town that maketh bred to sale shal to the -kynge of custome 11s. the year and to the clerk of the town a peny.” It -goes on to say that he is to make good white bread, and if the weight -is deficient, is to be at the King’s mercy. - -“And also everych cart out of fraunchyse comyng in to town with samown, -shal to the kynge of custome thre pens. - -“Also everych cart out of the fraunchyse shal to the kynge by custome -11 pens and an hafpeny what ffyshe he here to sale. And everych horse -berdene of fresh fysh that cometh in to the town to sale and be out of -franchyse shal to the kynge thre hafpens of custome and of shalt fysh a -hafpeny.” - -The monopolies granted in Winchester to trades unions were -considerable. In 1580 no cobbler was allowed to make “shoes, boots, -buskins, skertoppes, slippers or pantaples;” he was not only to stick -to his last, but to confine himself to repairs. Any infringement of -this rule involved a penalty of 6s. 8d. a pair. Each trade was to carry -on its own business--no intruders allowed. In 1673 a man paid money to -be permitted to live in the city, and in 1728 a barber had to pay to -be allowed to carry on his business. In 1656 it was resolved that the -election of the mayor and aldermen should be by “bullets.” This sounds -alarming; but the order is that one hundred red and white bullets, in -equal proportions, shall be provided, and that the electors shall put -them in privately. - -A copy of the letter Cromwell sent to the Mayor summoning the town to -surrender is preserved here. It runs thus: - - “Sir,--I come not to this city but with a full resolution to save it - and the inhabitants thereof from ruine. I have commanded the Souldyers - upon payne of death that noe wrong bee done; wch I shall strictly - observe, only I expect you give me entrance into the City, without - necessitating mee to force my way, which yf doe then it will be in my - power to save you or it. I expect yor answeare with in halfe an houre, - and rest, your servant, - - “OLIVER CROMWELL.” - -It will be observed that by some oversight or waggish design the word -“not” has been omitted before “in my power.” - -A modern, but not uninteresting object here is a large model of the -Cathedral, carved in wood with a jack-knife, by a shepherd’s boy, -while tending sheep on the Hampshire Downs. It was presented to Dean -Garnier in his 92nd year. - -We were much pleased with the young lady in charge of this collection, -who does her best to answer all the difficult questions put to her. -She told us that her father was an antiquary, and half ruined himself -in publishing archæological works, but that she was not sorry for it. -How refreshing to hear such disinterested sentiments in these grasping -days! Her grandfather was a brewer, and she was glad she had none of -the money he made in such an objectionable trade. - -Just below the Guildhall, on the east, stands a modern brick building, -with two towers, named the Abbey House--recalling memories of the -celebrated nunnery which stood here. It was founded by Alfred’s queen, -Ælwitha, who resided here as a widow. Edburga, his granddaughter, also -lived here and carried her humility so far as to wash the nuns clothes -secretly, much to the increase of their faith. The church of the Abbey -had a lofty tower. - -[Sidenote: St. John’s Hospital.] - -A little lower down we find two buildings facing each other on either -side of the street. The southernmost and more picturesque of the two -is the more modern, and only dates from 1833, previous to which a -draper’s shop occupied the site. Both belong to one foundation--due, -it is said, to St. Birinus--St. John’s Hospital. The northern -establishment (on the left) has a little old chapel, built in the days -of Henry III. As you enter by the gate you see in the east end of the -chapel wall, very high up, an ancient carving of a head surrounded -by a rim; but whether meant for a nimbus or a charger, and whether -representing Our Lord or St. John, I leave for others to decide. - -We find in the Black Book that there were, during Henry VI.’s reign, -the following sculptures in alabaster in the hospital:--A head of John -the Baptist, two images of the same saint and two of Our Lady. Milner -writes: “In the dusthole near the apartments of the widows, amongst -other curious antiques, is seen the figure of John the Baptist’s head -in a dish, being the bust of the holy patron of the house, which -formerly stood over the principal doorway.” - -The court of the hospital is laid out in beautiful swards and beds of -flowers and the houses seem to be pleasant residences. Before 1852 the -land belonged to the Mildmay family, and then the hospital had only -six poor cottages. Some arches are visible and stairs going down into -a kind of kitchen from which an arch, still visible, communicated with -another kitchen or refectory. If we pass through the chapel by the -west door we find two Decorated windows (Henry III.), and enter the -building containing this old chamber with a low arch and two large -hearths. The hall is over the refectory and is a room of magnificent -proportions, having its walls beautifully stuccoed with festoons of -flowers. This would appear to date from the time of Charles II., whose -picture, now in the Guildhall, was formerly here. - -St. John’s became the property of the Knights Templar, and on their -suppression John Devenish refounded it for lame soldiers, poor -pilgrims, and necessitous wayfarers. He had a charitable feeling -towards the footsore. After Henry VIII.’s confiscation it was used for -meetings of the Corporation. We learn from the Black Book that in the -38th Henry VIII. the supper was to be kept at St. John’s as amply as -heretofore. On the Sunday next following the Nativity of St. John the -Baptist, the Mayor was to find a capon and so was the alderman of the -High Street. In order to keep the “banket” up to the mark each of the -benchers was to pay 12d., and each of the “Twenty four” 8d., whether -they were present or not. - -This establishment had been confiscated by Henry VIII., and the -buildings made over to the Corporation for the formation of a new -hall. Various references seem to show that this chamber was now being -slowly completed. In 21st year of Henry VIII. John Brown was to have a -certain tenement in the hold of St. John’s upon condition of his giving -twenty shillings towards building a new chimney there; and in 1560 -the Mayor of Winchester who had been guilty of riding to Southampton -without a servant,[41] and of committing other enormities, was -ordered to glaze the west window of St. John’s Hall. This was not the -present hall, for it has no window looking west, and the chimney was -differently placed. To mend windows seems to have been here a common -and useful civic punishment. - -I may here observe that the clerk who entered the civic transactions in -the Black Book added a new saint to the calendar for he generally calls -this hospital that of St. Jones. - -The High Street here becomes very broad, apparently to accommodate a -Russian gun, but really because the Bridewell and a “dye house” stood -here till the beginning of this century, when it was removed to Hyde -Street. Even the ponderous cannon has not had a quiet time since it -came here, but has been on its travels. It was first placed where it -now stands, but a few years ago the Corporation conceived the idea of -moving it to a more commanding position on the summit of St. Giles’ -hill. They accordingly carried it up, but immediately afterwards a -tumultous assembly, aided, it is said, by some officers, and not -dissimilar from that which saved the Butter Cross, dragged the gun down -again by might and placed it on the site it now occupies.[42] - -Close to the bridge on the left-hand side where are Mr. Dance’s house -and grounds, stood anciently the Dominican friary, founded by De la -Roche, with its “Elysian garden.” Just here was also the Eastgate, a -high castellated building, which must have formed a handsome entrance -to the town in this direction. It was removed at the end of the last -century. - -Beneath Bridge Street are the remains of a many-arched bridge said to -have been built by St. Swithun. - -[Sidenote: Soke Bridge.] - -[Illustration: _Soke Bridge._] - -Passing over Soke Bridge, and proceeding straight on, we came, in a few -hundred yards, to a public-house built of wood and apparently sinking -under the weight of years, but which bore the name of “The Rising Sun.” -Through the open door I saw beams and passages of ancient irregularity, -and as the landlady, a bright looking woman, was standing just inside I -asked her whether she knew anything of the history of the house which -bore such proofs of antiquity. - -“You _would_ say it was old,” she replied, “if you saw the vaults there -are downstairs.” - -I answered that we were strangers, and should like to see them. She -speedily lighted a candle and led the way down into a chamber about -twenty feet square and eight high. A wide flight of broken stairs led -up to the street, while on the other side of the vault was an arch -with a square window on either side leading to a chamber beyond. There -had evidently been stone mullions and iron bars--the irons of the door -hinges remain. - -This was the prison of the Soke belonging to the Bishop of Winchester, -and in ancient times the stocks stood just outside. I expressed the -interest I took in these remains of the past. - -“Yes, sir,” replied our guide, who was not quite so visionary, “and it -is a nice place for keeping beer barrels--it is so cool.” - -This part of the town was called the Soke, not, as I at first -supposed, because of its low position near the river, but from -the Saxon _soc_ or liberty, which instead of signifying that the -people here were unusually free, meant that the Bishop of Winchester -had license to do whatever he liked to them. Nearly opposite this -establishment are some new houses, and when their foundations were -being laid, a Roman urn was found, sixteen feet beneath the ground. - -[Sidenote:Panoramic View.] - -[Illustration: Towers and Spires of Winchester.] - -Continuing our walk we made our way up the hill, now terraced and -tastefully planted. Less than ten years ago it was covered with little -garden allotments belonging to the citizens. On reaching the upper -ground--a sort of down--a magnificent view opened over the whole of -Winchester. We walked over to the south-east corner, and took up our -position on a seat close to the iron fence. From there we could take -a general survey. In a hollow about two miles to the east we saw the -trees about Chilcombe; on the summit of the down due east was a clump -of trees on St. Catherine’s hill; a square tower more to the north -on the lower ground was that of St. Cross; from this approaching -Winchester, first comes the college, then the old walls of Wolvesey, -then the Cathedral, the best and most compact view of it. Nearly over -the College on the top of the hill is the clump of firs on the site of -Cromwell’s battery, looking lower than our position, but really being -higher, and over the Cathedral is the long red brick front of Charles -II.’s palace. Truly, we have here Winchester in a nutshell. - -In a description of the prospect from this point, written a hundred and -fifty years since, mention is made of the beautiful gardens, and in -prints dated 1723 and 1736 we find that two-thirds of the space within -the walls of Winchester were laid out for horticulture and adorned with -large trees. - -[Sidenote: The Fair.] - -Passing over to the northern side of the down we came to a burial -ground. The grave-digger told us that in the southern and older part of -it, he was often obstructed by the foundations of the old chapel--that -dedicated to St. Giles,[43] a hermit saint whose shrine is always -outside mediæval cities. Hard by, an old farm-house still exists called -Palm Hall, a corruption of Pavilionis Aula--the tent used by the judges -at the famous fair which was held here annually at the end of August. -This fair extended round this point and southwards even down the slope -and was the greatest but one in England. We find, in the Close Rolls, -King John giving directions that wax, pepper, and cinnamon, should -be here bought for him; and Henry III. (15) commands the sheriffs of -Gloucestershire and Worcestershire to allow wares to be brought to this -fair, and at another time orders that the barons (freemen?) should -proceed to Winton with their merchandise, and not fear the hostility -of the Earl of Salisbury.[44] Guards were placed as well as toll -collectors upon the roads for seven leagues round, within which circuit -and at Southampton no business was allowed. The right of holding the -fair was granted by Rufus to Bishop Walkelin for three days in the year -to assist him in building the Cathedral, and the time was gradually -extended, till in Henry II.’s reign it lasted sixteen days. The Bishop -had the jurisdiction, and the tolls went to the priory of St. Swithun, -Hyde Abbey, and other places. - -Now let us enter the fair. There is a palisading all round it and -only two gates. It looks something between an industrial exhibition -and a cattle show. Each kind of ware has a separate locality. Here is -the “Draperie” and the “Pottery”--there is the “Spicery.” Here is the -street of the “Flemings,” “Limoges,” and “Genoese,” and other nations. -Even the Bishop has a stall. There are birds, apes, ferrets, and -bears. Here are the dynamiters--dreadful name--very harmless people, -vendors of brass pots. Moving among all these we picture to ourselves -a number of foreign merchants in rich costumes, Jews in strange hats, -the Bishop’s officials in gay liveries, and a crowd of hard-featured, -bare-footed peasants. - -At sunset the Marshal rides through the fair and orders all stalls to -be closed. No one is to have any fire at night except a lamp or mortar. -The justiciaries seem to have had some good privileges. They might -enter at what day or hour they pleased into the city, and taste one by -one all the casks of wine for sale there. They might also send their -servants to take loaves from all the bakers and bring them to the -pavilion. There they were weighed, and if short, woe betide the baker! -his bread was forfeited, and he himself fined or put in the pillory. -The tolls seemed heavy on fancy articles. A load of hay or corn was -only ½d., and a cask of wine or a cart-load of fish or leather 4d., -but an ape or falcon or bear was also 4d. - -The fair continued down till about twenty years since. The neighbouring -Magdalen or “Morn” fair lasted four years longer. Dean Kitchin writes: -“As the city grew stronger and the fair weaker, it slid down St. Giles’ -hill and entered the town where its noisy ghost still holds revel once -a year.” - -[Sidenote: Execution.] - -On the brow of St. Giles’ hill, Waltheof, Earl of Northumberland, was -beheaded by order of the Conqueror. He had conspired with some other -Saxons against the Norman invaders, and was betrayed by his wife--a -niece of William’s. - -At dawn he was conducted through the city from the Castle, “arrayed in -all the badges of his earl’s rank.” After distributing memorial gifts -to a few of his friends who accompanied him, he was engaged in prayer -so long that the executioners became tired and told him to hasten. He -then begged to be allowed to say the Lord’s prayer, but, being overcome -and halting in the middle of it, the headsman would wait no longer -and the axe fell. It was said that after his head was off it finished -the sentence, “Deliver us from evil.” This probably was thought by -those who were surprised to see the lips move, as they often do, after -decapitation.[45] - - -FOOTNOTES: - - [33] This was the first place where the curfew was established. - - [34] Add. MSS. 6,768, British Museum. - - [35] Of the eleven streets mentioned in the Winton Domesday book, - only two--“Mensterstret” and “Colobrockstret” retain their names. - - [36] Archbishop Trench. The name may have been more or less in use - before. - - [37] Harl. MSS. 66. - - [38] Though one destroyed in Henry II.’s reign seems to have been - near the Westgate. One existed in Henry III.’s reign. - - [39] Pat. Rolls, 5 Henry V., p. 2. - - [40] The Corporation of Winchester used to send this accommodating - Marquess presents of sack and sugar-loaves. - - [41] There was great anxiety that the Mayor should keep up his - dignity. He was not to be seen without his gown unless he was going - into the country, and his wife was to wear a scarlet gown. In 1584 it - was decreed that “no citizen that hath been bayliff of the city shall - wear in the street hose or stockings of white, green, yellow, redde, - blewe, weggett or oringe color.” - - [42] Among the Tanner MSS. 76 in the Bodleian there is a curious - account (about 1600) of the devil appearing to four women who were - in Winchester gaol. He came to the windows like a fire and shook - the gratings, and on another occasion was like “a great black thing - with great eyes.” The women screamed, and the keeper ran in but saw - nothing. He observed however, that one of the candles he held in his - hands blew out, and the other burnt blue, and that the devil had left - an “unsavoury” odour in the room. - - [43] This chapel was burnt down in 1231. Perhaps both it and St. - Catherine’s were originally of wood. A curious old dagger and spear - head were found where the new house on the hill was built. - - [44] Pat. Rolls, 4 Henry III. - - [45] A horrible execution took place in Winchester in 1259. Walter de - Scoteneye was torn to pieces by horses for the murder of W. de Clare. - - - - -THIRD DAY. - -The City Walls--Danemead--Eastgate--Northgate--Westgate--Southgate-- - Kingsgate--The College--Wykeham--Wolvesey--Raleigh. - - -From the Roman occupation, and perhaps from an earlier date, Winchester -has been a fortified town. Long after that time, people were slow in -laying to heart the saying in Plutarch that a city which contains men -who can fight has no need of walls. - -The modern defences seem to have been chiefly raised in the time of -John and Henry III.,[46] just before Winchester ceased to be the -royal city of England. In the first year of John an inexpensive way -was discovered of obtaining land to make the fosse. Andrew Clerk, of -Winchester, gladly gave ground for the purpose, on condition that he -should have confiscated lands “which had belonged to Aaron the Jew, -in Shortenestret, and a messuage near it in which Bona the Jewess -lived.”[47] In the patents during Henry’s reign “murage,” that is, -money for wall-building, is often mentioned.[48] - -We now pass down the High Street in the same direction that we took -yesterday, and, after reaching the site of the Eastgate, cross the -bridge, as we cannot walk close to the river on the western side. We -pass down Water Lane, where a Roman urn was discovered a short time -since; and, crossing the river by the mill, come to Durngate Terrace, -marking the site of a postern in the walls. This gate was made for foot -passengers in 1259. It was ordered to be entirely closed during the -plague in 1603, whence we conclude this was a squalid part of the town. - -[Sidenote: Danemead.] - -Thence as we proceeded up the City Road we found the modern walls -largely studded with pieces of old cut stone. The foundations of the -city walls ran close to the houses on our right, and a gentleman we -met told us that during some excavations he had seen a part of them -uncovered six feet in thickness. On the left we soon came to Trinity -Church, a handsome new structure, and on the right, beside Newman’s -the grocer’s, there is a gate leading to some sheds in the famous -meadow called Danemead. Farther on we found a turning on the right, -and walking up it a few yards came to the Steam Laundry, which stands -on the western edge of this field. Sceptics maintain that Dane is a -corruption of Dene, and signifies low-lying ground, but we cannot -afford to give up the old story. Tradition says that here Athelstan sat -on the city wall to see the combat between Guy, Earl of Warwick, and -the gigantic Dane, Colbrand: Rudborne luxuriates in the conflict, and -records all the mighty cuts and blows and their results with as much -detail as if he were a Homer or a reporter at a modern prize fight. - -But there seems about the whole affair much hollowness and “sounding -brass.” Guy cuts off Colbrand’s head, and the Danes, seeing their -champion dead, run away, and are pursued. We wonder whether Rudborne -had been reading about David and Goliath. He was a monk of Winchester -in the fifteenth century, and as he says that Colbrand’s axe was laid -up before the high altar, and could in his day be seen in the vestry of -the Cathedral, so we may assume there was here some celebrated Dane of -the name of Colbrand. - -Further up the City Road the deep fosse before the walls can be traced -in the slope of “Hyde Abbey Bowling Green,” and in the garden of a -ladies school called Fossedyke House. In the centre of the cross roads -here formed by Jewry Street, Hyde Street, and the City Road, stood the -Northgate. This structure was at length considered, as Temple Bar has -been in our times, to be a hindrance to traffic. Some people went so -far as to say that their lives had been endangered by carriages when -crossing its narrow bridge. Purchasers of hay and straw said that the -arches of the North and South gates were so low that they could not -obtain a full load for their money. Antiquaries have never been able to -offer much resistance to commercial interests, and so in 1771 an order -was made for the removal of the time-honoured obstacles. - -[Sidenote: Towers of the Wall.] - -The foundations of the walls now cross the road and run on our left, -a fragment of them behind Westbury Villa can still be seen from the -street; and if we look upwards we shall observe among the branches of -the trees a round tower, which a patriotic citizen, Mr. Budden, has -built to mark the foundations of one of the towers of the wall.[49] We -now pass down Sussex Street, and turning to the left and then right, -enter Tower Street. At the end of the last century the picturesque -ruins of the wall, among shrubs and ash trees, ran here on the right -to the Westgate. Passing through the gate, already described, we make -for the barracks, where the Castle formed part of the city wall; and, -crossing the railway, walk in front of the pretty gardens and houses -of St. James’ Terrace, and just before recrossing the line see the -entrance to the new cemetery on our right. - -Then we proceed down St. James’ Lane (called sometimes Barnes Lane), at -the end of which in Southgate Street, just beyond St. Thomas’ Church, -stood, till 1771, the Southgate with its bridge. The city wall then -ran down between St. Swithun Street and Canon Street. Some portions -of it three feet thick can still be seen about four yards behind the -cottages, half way down the northern side of the latter street. There -was formerly a postern for the friary somewhere here. - -[Illustration: King’s Gate.] - -The Kingsgate is an interesting relic. There is a little chapel (to St. -Swithun) over it, as there was over the Northgate and Eastgate. In the -porter’s lodge, at the entrance to the close, the city wall can be seen -over six feet thick. - -[Sidenote: Excommunication.] - -The Kingsgate was the scene of some remarkable events in the middle of -the thirteenth century. Henry III. wished to appoint the uncle of the -Queen to the bishopric of Winchester, but the monks sturdily refused. -For five years the conflict lasted--the chapter suffered stripes, -imprisonment, and starvation while insisting that William de Raley and -no other should be the bishop. But when this prelate came to Winchester -at Christmas he found the city gates closed against him. He made a -circuit of the walls barefoot, and at last stopped at Kingsgate, the -nearest point to the Cathedral, and there “preaching” pronounced a -general interdict and excommunication upon all the Cathedral and Church -authorities, the Mayor, bailiffs, and clerks, and others, who opposed -his entrance. He then withdrew to France, but was soon afterwards -received to his diocese in peace. Fifteen years after this occurrence -there was a rebellion in Winchester against the clerical and other -governing bodies, and in the tumult the Kingsgate was partly burnt, and -some of the servants of the monastery were murdered. - -At this time the chapel over the gate was destroyed, but the whole was -soon afterwards restored. The chapel in which service is now performed -was rebuilt at a later date. - -Beside the gate of the precincts a “Druidical” monolith can be seen -placed upright in the ground. Passing back through the Kingsgate we can -see the line of the wall continuing along the little garden of the -head-master, and here is a pretty bit for the artist.[50] - -[Illustration: THE PORTER’S LODGE AND CHEYNEY COURT.] - -Nearly opposite we saw a number of college boys streaming into a small -confectioner’s shop. Inside sat a young lady in a cage. I had always -felt that the fair possessed potent charms, but I never before knew -of one who was obliged to be protected in this way. We soon learned, -however, that the wire was put up for the preservation of other -sweets, and because some of the boys had been studying Dr. Smiles’ work -on “Self-help.” - -[Sidenote: Sustern Spytal.] - -On the same side we came to one of the College houses, with an iron -railing in front of it; this was the site of the ancient nunnery,[51] -the Sustern Spytal. Here were afterwards the “Commoners,” or boys not -on the foundation, and now are class-rooms. It has been said that there -was no fosse along this part of the city wall; but in the French map of -1650, one is marked as existing. The question is doubtful. - -[Sidenote: Wykeham.] - -And now we arrive at the famous College, and, as in duty bound, pay a -passing tribute to its founder. Wykeham was of yeoman birth, of comely -person, and had a strain of noble blood in him, from his mother’s -family. He was educated at a little old school on St. Giles’ slope, -which boasted that it had numbered among its pupils Athelwolf and -Alfred the Great. No doubt, he attended to his lessons, for we find -him while still a youth, appointed to be secretary to the Governor of -the Castle. This was the happy accident in Wykeham’s life; without -it, though he had a genius for architecture and geometry, and was a -rare draughtsman, he might have remained in obscurity. The governor, -De Scures, knew Bishop Edington--himself a builder--and both knew -the King. They introduced Wykeham to him, and from that moment, at -twenty-three years of age, his career was assured. - -“He was one of those men,” observed Mr. Hertford, “whom fortune carries -to the top of the ladder without asking them to walk up the rounds.” - -“So it appears,” I continued. “He took, as many of his day, the -priest’s office that he might eat a piece of bread, and soon had -it richly buttered. Not only did he become ‘a pretty considerable -pluralist’ and a bishop, he was also made Surveyor of the King’s -castles and palaces, Keeper of the Privy Seal, Secretary to the King, -and Chancellor. In short, he was the leading spirit in the country, and -‘everything was done by him, and without him nothing.’” - -“But I have read somewhere that he had a fall,” said Mr. Hertford, -“and was obliged to appeal to Alice Perrers. Imagine the grave bishop -in his long robes, bowing down to Edward’s impudent little favourite! -Perhaps his words were golden on this occasion, for she said she would -go and see whether a spark of love for her remained in the old king. -And the spark did remain, and its light was sufficient to guide Wykeham -back to his temporalities.” - -“Well,” I replied, “that story has been questioned, but, at any rate, -he only wanted his own, and that for a good purpose. His pet college -was in danger of suffering, and though the building was not commenced -he had appointed a warden and scholars. When the college was finished, -he began the transformation of the Cathedral and had done good work -upon it before he closed his eyes. He left 2,500 marks to carry it on. -Until the last few years of his life he planned everything himself, -and employed no architect. He is considered to be the father of the -Perpendicular style, and was national as opposed to Papal in his -architecture and his politics. Altogether he laid out upon building -what would now be equal to half a million. For such brilliant success, -learning and integrity were indispensably requisite, and he summed up -his estimate of them in his famous motto ‘Manners makyth man.’” - -Beneath the great and good deeds of Wykeham, we may here mention a -little kindly act, not less indicative of a noble character. When he -had purchased Dummers Mead from St. Swithun’s Monastery for the site of -his College, a tailor claimed a part of it and took legal proceedings. -The man failed to establish his right, and was condemned to pay the -heavy costs, which would have ruined him. Wykeham generously defrayed -them. - -[Sidenote: Relics of Wykeham.] - -There are preserved in a curious vaulted strongroom over the College -sacristy, among other manuscripts, a modest pedigree, tracing Henry -VII.’s descent from Adam, a Life of St. Thomas à Becket deposited here -by Wykeham,[52] and a roll of the household expenses of the founder in -1394.[53] But if we wish to see his most interesting relics we must -go to New College, Oxford. Judging from what remains there, we might -almost conclude that Wykeham was a giant in stature as well as in -mind.[54] There we find a pair of large crimson silk gloves, with I. -H. S. amid golden rays, worked on their backs. His ring is about an -inch wide, of great solidity, with the crucifixion embossed on the -gold at each side. The stone, about the size of a sovereign, is in -the shape of a heart and colourless, probably rock crystal. This was -doubtless a thumb ring, but it is large even for that. His mitre case -is an extraordinary structure, made of thick stamped leather, girded -with iron bands and locked at the top. It is a foot wide and nearly two -feet high, in shape resembling a beehive. From the strength of the case -we should expect valuable contents. But no; the fragments of the mitre -show it to have been little superior to a stage “property.” Its rods -adorned with trefoil leaves are of silver gilt, but the “jewels” are -plentiful and spurious. The tissue bearing the I. H. S. was worked with -seed pearls. The purfling which went round the brow of the mitre was of -brass, with sham gems, alternated with small squares of silver brightly -enamelled with figures of men, animals, and flowers. - -The most costly of these “jocalia” is the central piece of a morse or -clasp for the cope. It is about two inches wide, and is called a Mary -crowned, being in the form of an old-fashioned M, like a horseshoe.[55] -It is surrounded with pearls, emeralds, and garnets. In the centre -stand two little figures in gold, Mary and an angel, and between them -is a vase of garnet, from which springs a lily with emerald leaves and -flowers of pearls. - -Behind a glass in New College Chapel is Wykeham’s crozier; a -magnificent work of silver adorned with pinnacles and other ornaments, -and especially rich in scriptural figures in enamel. - -At Oxford is, also, the only letter extant, written by -Wykeham--purchased at Sir Edward Dering’s sale. It is in the clerkly -hand, adopted by penmen of the time, and the lines, now much faded, -are a foot long, but so few that the whole writing is scarcely an inch -wide. The letter, thus short and long, was written from Shene,[56] to -Lord Cobham, in 1367, when he was on an embassy to the Pope, of whose -whereabouts Wykeham seems doubtful. It is in French, and signed - -[Illustration: William de Wykeham] - -Among these curiosities is the ivory horn of a fish called a narwhal, -which seems out of place in the collection, unless it be considered -emblematic of the vocation of the first preachers of Christianity. -It probably belonged to Wykeham, and is sixty-five inches long, the -pointed end--supposed to be an antidote for poison--having been cut -off. When Lord Leicester was Chancellor of Oxford in 1569, he asked the -College to give him this horn. They made a compromise, and by sending -him this prized extremity were allowed to keep the rest. - -[Sidenote: The College.] - -We enter the first court, and look with veneration at the kneeling -figure of Wykeham. Here was impressed by a master-mind the prototype -of our public schools. The prelate chose the site outside the walls -of Winchester, in the Soke, which extended round the south-east of -the city, so that the College might be entirely in the Bishop of -Winchester’s jurisdiction. As early as 1373, he engaged a schoolmaster -at Winchester, and three years later had a warden and seventy scholars. - -[Illustration: _Chamber Court._] - -The buildings we see, with the exception of the Chantry Chapel and -schoolroom and tower, are those erected by Wykeham. In March, 1393, the -warden, fellows, and scholars, took possession of their new magnificent -abode, marching in a triumphal procession, headed by a cross-bearer, -and chanting songs of praise. Nevertheless, the accommodation would -not have seemed liberal in our days. Three fellows had only one room; -the seventy scholars had six chambers, and those below fourteen years -slept two in a bed. These were in the inner quadrangle. The outer -quadrangle must then have formed a somewhat unpoetical entrance to the -abode of the muses, although the warden and head-master lived in it. In -the front of it, built partly for defence, were the brewery, bakehouse, -and malt-rooms; on the west side, the stables; and on the east, the -slaughter-houses. - -[Sidenote: Cloisters.] - -[Illustration: _The Cloisters._] - -The Cloisters were built by Wykeham’s steward; and I should like to -have walked their “studious pale” at my leisure, and to have spent some -time in musing over the past. These arches, this pavement, and this -clean roof of chestnut or Irish oak, have been present to the mind and -eye of many a learned man as he here mused upon the great master works -of the Greeks and Romans. And after his ambition had been kindled, and -his breast inspired for a brief period, he had laid him down to rest, -and left nothing to inform us that he ever lived, except a tablet on -these silent walls. I can conjure up the pensive figure of Henry VI., -who was often here, and attended the chapel services. He presented the -College with a chalice, cruets, and tabernacle, all of gold, and gave -the little boys some pocket-money, which, no doubt, was more valued -by them.[57] - -Here are brasses to some of the fellows who died in the sixteenth -century. We see that John Watts (Watto), reached the patriarchal age of -a hundred years. Some are commemorated in Latin verses--the solemnity -of death could not prevent a poetaster from punning on the name of -Lark, and one John Clerk, who on earth “distilled rosy liquors,” is -now “rejoicing in living waters.” But we are also reminded of younger -and gayer scenes, of spirits full of hope looking forward joyously to -years of expected happiness. The walls are scored with the names of -these aspirants, most of them afterwards unknown--for studious boys -rarely mark themselves upon wood and stone--but we see here “Thos. Ken, -1646,” the celebrated bishop, whose glorious hymns, “Awake, my soul,” -and “Glory to Thee, my God, this night,” first appeared in a Manual of -Prayers he composed for Winchester College. - -Alas! as I look through these arches to the grassy enclosure, I see -some small tombstones to the memory of boys not destined even to feel -the disappointments of life. The rosebud has fallen upon the sod! The -thought is too melancholy, let us change to something cheerful--and -look at those young girls on the sward, sketching the little old chapel -which stands in the centre with all its pristine beauty. It dates from -1430. There is a fine stained east window in it which has old figures -in the lower part. Over the chapel--intended for private masses--is an -apartment, now used for a library. The whole is a little _bijou_. - -The large schoolroom, built by Warden Nicholas in 1687, is now used -merely for concerts and other entertainments. But the great grim -signboard still remains, warning the festive company that they must -learn, leave, or be whipped! This unpleasant notification is impressed -by a representation of a sword, and something which looks alarmingly -like a pitchfork, but is really meant for a rod. In these days of -competitive examinations, it seems strange to be told that the army -is to be the last refuge for dunces. This work of art is older than -the building; its scholastic designer remains among the great unknown. -Prominent here among other names, is that of Herbert Stewart, painted -with ink in letters of heroic size.[58] - -The height of the Hall gives it a magnificent appearance, while the old -oak in the panelling, benches, tables, and roof, make it sombre and -venerable. Some old pieces of wood, about six inches square, were shown -us, which are still used by the foundation boys for plates at breakfast -and supper. In early times the hall was warmed by a fire in the centre. - -[Sidenote: The Portraits.] - -Over the high table there is a full-length portrait of William of -Wykeham. It is on oak, but scarcely looks as old as the days of -Holbein. All we can hope is that there was some likeness of Wykeham -of which it is a copy. There is also here a picture of Bishop Morley -with rosy cheeks, pointed beard, and a somewhat cynical expression. He -was in exile with Charles II., and returned with him, and, to judge by -the carmine here freely used, had shared in his master’s good living. -Beneath this, by way of contrast, I suppose, hangs the lantern face -of Bishop Fox--dark, close-shaven, ascetic--not altogether unlike his -patron Henry VII. He was the man who collected the bones out of the -crypt, and placed them in the chests. - -On the wall of the passage to the kitchen there is the picture of the -“Trusty Servant,” almost as well known as the College itself. The Latin -verse dates from 1560; the figure, from Queen Anne. - -“I remember that at first sight I thought it was intended for the -devil,” said Mr. Hertford, “and I am not sure that the designer was not -a plagiarist in this respect. I have seen valentines like it.” - -“But when we read the lines,” I replied, “we find the intention is to -represent virtues, not vices. The cloven feet are to signify celerity, -not bestiality; the ‘porker’s snout’ contentment, not greediness; and -the donkey’s head patience, not stupidity; the formidable weapons -and bundle of implements he carries are for defensive and industrial -purposes. This combination of man and beast has a moral as well as a -comic side, and has much taken the public fancy.” - -When we were opposite this picture, the porter recited with some -dramatic power the description of this model domestic:-- - - “A trusty servant’s portrait would you see, - The emblematic figure well survey: - The porker’s snout--not nice in diet shows; - The padlock shut--no secrets he’ll disclose; - Patient the ass, his master’s wrath to bear, - Swiftness in errand--the stag’s feet declare; - Loaded his left hand, apt to labour with, - The vest his neatness; open hand his faith; - Girt with his sword--his shield upon his arm, - Himself and master he’ll protect from harm.” - -We pitied the man who rehearsed these hackneyed lines to every -visitor, but hoped that to his ear they had a musical, or perhaps, as -Shakespeare says, a silver sound. - -[Sidenote: Brasses.] - -In the College Chapel we have the original roof, and the brasses are -exact reproductions of those formerly existing here; which, though -carefully stored, were stolen when the pavement was undergoing repair -some twenty years ago. Fortunately a boy with the suitable name of -Freshfield had kept rubbings of them, and by these they have been -restored. Warden Nicholas, though not a man of puritanical views, -removed the screen. - -[Illustration: The College Chapel] - -The College was visited by Charles I., and when reverses came it was -still safe, for Nicholas Love, the regicide, son of a warden of that -name, exerted himself for its preservation, and Colonel Nathaniel -Fiennes, who was an old Wykehamist, when Cromwell took possession of -Winchester, placed a guard at the gates of the College to prevent any -depredations. - -Poetic memories cluster richly around these old walls. Ken has been -mentioned, and Otway should not be forgotten, but time ripened more -abundant fruit. There was Young, to whom so many wise reflections came -when-- - - “Night, sable goddess! from her ebon throne - In rayless majesty now stretches forth - Her leaden sceptre o’er a slumbering world.” - -and whose lines, “Procrastination is the thief of time,” “At thirty -man suspects himself a fool,” and “All men think all men mortal but -themselves,” have become household words. Then there was “Tom Warton,” -of whom Johnson said that he was the only man of genius he knew that -had no heart. In one sense the remark was perhaps true. Although he -was eminently sociable and genial, he seems, from his writings, to -have been free from those amorous perplexities in which most poets are -involved. But he had a fine imagination, great power of expression, and -a considerable vein of humour. Next came poor Collins, who died insane. -His father, a hatter, determined, like Sugden the barber, to give his -son the very best education. Collins was a strange, fantastical fellow, -though not unworthy of the feather he wore in his cap. He became a demi -of Magdalen College, Oxford, and wrote three odes--to Evening, to the -Passions, and on the Death of Thompson--never surpassed in the English -language. Truly the tree of knowledge was here hung with golden fruit. -Many other eminent men have issued hence to adorn the Church and -State, whose solid acquirements must not cause us to undervalue the -gifts of Sydney Smith, another Wykehamist, who “could make not only the -guests and servants, but even the portraits laugh.” - -[Sidenote: School Fare.] - -Warton in his panegyric on ale, and in the affection he practically -showed for it, may have been influenced by the remembrance of the -joyous drinks of his school life. He says:-- - - “Let the tender swain - Each morn regale with nerve-relaxing tea - Companion meet for languor-loving nymphs;” - -and adds that he prefers a “material breakfast,” consisting of a crust -and tankard of ale. As late as seventy years ago the boys continued -to have beer for breakfast, indeed that, and that only, was allowed -them liberally. Winchester seems to have been long in forgetting the -good old Saxon times when each alderman consumed two gallons of beer -at a sitting. As for the boys’ dinner, what between fagging, and the -seniors having the first cut at the joint, the juniors often had -none--vegetables, never. When the square bits of board were their only -plates, they were certainly not indulged with gravy. No wonder that -they heartily sang the “Dulce Domum” in the college meads when the -time came for them to disperse for their summer holidays. - -[Illustration: _Corner of a College Study._] - -Passing on down College Street, and admiring some Virginian creepers, -more bright than Henry VII.’s stained glass, we soon came to the large -gates of Wolvesey Castle. There was a fortress here in Saxon times, -built, it is said, by Cynegils, and made over by his son to the bishops -of Winchester. There is a mystery about the name. Some think it means -Wolf’s Island. Milner says the name came from Edgar having required -a Welsh prince to find 300 wolves’ heads and deposit them here every -year. These animals were then great pests, and when Alfred wrote -requesting the Archbishop of Rheims to permit St. Grimbald to come -over, he sent him a present of wolf hounds. The prelate acceding, says -that the saint is “not a dumb dog, but able to bark and drive away evil -spirits.” - -The earlier castle which stood on this site had a literary celebrity. -Here Alfred’s scribes compiled the Anglo-Saxon Chronicle, assisted -by the King himself. He ordered the precious volume to be kept at -Wolvesey--it is now in Corpus Christi College, Cambridge. This was the -first English prose book. - -The structure of which we now see the ruins was built by Bishop -de Blois, brother of King Stephen, out of the materials of the -former castle, and of the Saxon palace in the square. It was not long -constructed before it was used in a manner which showed that the -bishop’s weapons were not entirely spiritual. - -[Sidenote: Burning of Winchester.] - -In 1141, during the civil wars, the southern part of the city, -including the Bishop’s palace and the Cathedral, supported King -Stephen, while the northern, containing the best houses and Royal -Castle, held out for the Empress Matilda. A storm of fire-balls poured -forth from Wolvesey Castle, destroying the Abbey of St. Mary, twenty -churches, large private buildings, the suburb of Hyde, and the splendid -monastery there situated. Fighting and firing raged in the heart of the -city for seven weeks! The Northern party were at last driven into the -Royal Castle, and the water cut off. The Empress now adopted a clever -expedient; she kept out of sight, caused a report to be circulated -that she was dead, and had preparations made for her funeral. Her body -was enclosed in lead like a corpse, and was thus allowed to be carried -out in a horse-litter through the besiegers’ camp. Once safely in the -open country she soon was out of her coffin and into her saddle, and, -bestriding her good steed, galloped off towards Devizes. Stephen, upon -his obtaining the castle, prepared it for vigorous defence, but before -he was ready heard an army was collecting against him and took to -flight. The monks of Hyde Abbey maintained that during this conflict -Bishop de Blois intentionally fired from Wolvesey upon their monastery. - -The war which devastated the country at this time greatly interfered -with agriculture, and a synod was convened at Winchester, at which -it was resolved, “that plough and husbandman should have the same -privileges of sanctuary with churches,” and the whole assembly, with -torches in their hands, pronounced a blazing excommunication against -any one who injured an agriculturist. - -Wolvesey saw Henry II.--who had been crowned at Winchester--in one of -his worst moments. After the murder of À Becket he found a great storm -of public feeling raised against him, and felt no longer safe. On the -6th of August he passed through Winchester, and visited this grim -old Norman castle, where Henry de Blois was dying, and here he heard -the bishop’s last words of bitter reproach, as he foretold the great -calamities which Divine vengeance would pour upon the murderer of the -Archbishop. From this Henry hurried to Wales and to the subjugation of -Ireland. As late as Leland’s time this was “a castelle, or palace well -tow’red,” and it was a residence till the Civil War. - -[Sidenote: Raleigh.] - -Here, in Henry VIII.’s time, Bishop Fox, as a blind and aged man, was -interrogated about Prince Arthur, who was born here, and gave very -interesting and lucid replies. Here Mary first saw Philip. Here took -place the famous trial of Raleigh before Popham and others, during -which the apartments of the warden and fellows of the College were -requisitioned for the judges, sheriffs, and principal lawyers. The -fine old sailor kept a very cheerful countenance, we are told, though -so unwell and feeble that he was accommodated with a seat. He was -charged with attempting to induce foreign enemies to invade the King’s -dominions; with attempting to restore the Romish religion; and to -place on the throne Arabella Stuart, whom he was to meet in Jersey. -The celebrated Coke was the Crown counsel against him, and indulged in -virulent and coarse invectives, calling him a terrible and detestable -traitor. - -“He hath a Spanish heart. You are an odious man. See with what a ---- -forehead he defends his faults. His treason tends not only to the -destruction of our souls, but to the loss of our goods, lands, and -lives. This is the man who would take away the King and his cubs.” - -Raleigh sometimes smiled during this tirade. The last accusation was -the only one which moved him, and he said, referring to it, that Coke -was a base slave. “Humble, but not prostrate,” he answered for himself; -“showing love of life rather than fear of death.” The charges against -him were on the authority of only one man, his former friend, Lord -Cobham. Raleigh quoted Scripture, that “in the mouth of two or three -witnesses shall every word be established,” and demanded that Cobham -should be brought face to face with him. This was refused. He said that -in the Tower he got a poor fellow to throw up an apple with a letter -tied to it to Cobham, who said, in reply, that he had wronged him. But -all was of no avail, and Popham condemned Raleigh to be hanged till -half dead, and then cut down, quartered, and disembowelled. He left -the court without showing any signs of dismay. This account is the -more interesting and valuable, as it comes from the pen of Sir Thomas -Overbury, an estimable man, poisoned by Carr, who afterwards married -his wife. - -Raleigh, though he remained afterwards thirteen years in the Tower, -until his unfortunate and dishonest expedition, was finally executed -under this sentence passed at Winchester. - -[Sidenote: Wolvesey.] - -All is now peaceful enough at Wolvesey. Time has gnawed the walls, the -Roundheads destroyed the defences, and Bishop Morley peeled the whole -to erect the new palace which now stands beside these sad remains. -The string courses in the walls seem to be a continuation of Roman -architecture, and we observe two good Norman windows and a couple of -imperfect arches; the outside of the keep can still be recognized and -the refectory. But nearly all the interior is in a confused state of -disintegration, and the man who can call the ruins picturesque must -have a happy imagination. Morley’s palace, now used for school classes, -is uninteresting; so is the chapel, though, as a builder who had to -repair the roof assured me, the wood there, the east window and south -wall existed in the days of the castle. - -[Illustration: The Tower of the College Chapel from the Itchen.] - -Leaving Wolvesey, we continued by the line of the city wall, and marked -in places the insertion of Roman tiles. There is little here to recall -the conflicts of men, but much, in the dark fruit-laden boughs, to -make us reflect on the generosity of nature and on piping times, when -every man can sit happily beneath his own vine and fig-tree. And now -we continue our walk by the smooth river and by cottage gardens bright -with everlastings and “gipsy roses” (scabious), till we find ourselves -again on the site of the Eastgate from which we started. - - -FOOTNOTES: - - [46] Called of Winchester from having been born there. - - [47] These town ditches were let to different parties, the grass - being of some value. In the Black Book we find, in Henry IV.’s reign, - a grant by the Mayor of Winchester, giving to the Abbot and Convent - of the Church of St. Barnabas, of Hyde, a certain part of a ditch - called Walldych, extending from the Northern Bridge to a certain - place called the Bowe, where flows Kyngesbroke. The convent to resign - all claim to the fishing in the ditch, and give free ingress to a - certain part at the end of the bridge called Northbrigge, for nets - and all instruments for cleaning. - - [48] In the Pat. Rolls, 43 Ed. III., there is an order for towers and - walls to be repaired. - - [49] Near this, at the commencement of the Andover Road, a Roman coin - of the year 340 was found at a depth of sixteen feet. The staple - grounds were within the walls here. - - [50] The monks of St. Swithun had “Viridaria” or pleasure grounds - outside the precincts. - - [51] Founded by the brethren of St. Swithun’s for fifteen nursing - sisters. - - [52] Wykeham seems to have had a peculiar reverence for St. Thomas - à Becket. The election of scholars into New College and Winchester - School was to take place every year between the festival of the - Translation of St. Thomas à Becket (July 7), and the 1st of October. - - [53] There are here also three Anglo-Saxon charters, and in the - Audit-room some fifteenth-century tapestries and the coats of mail - worn by the warden’s escort. - - [54] His father’s name was John Longe, perhaps from his stature. - - [55] Does this similarity account for the proverbial good luck of the - horse shoe? - - [56] That is, Richmond, where Wykeham improved the palace. - - [57] When Henry VI. founded Eton on the plan of Winchester, - Wayneflete (the headmaster here and afterwards bishop) migrated with - five fellows to the new foundation. - - [58] Wykehamists are proud of this gallant soldier who fell recently, - fighting in the Soudan, and have erected a memorial gateway in his - honour. - - - - -FOURTH DAY. - -Jewry Street and the Jews--Hyde Abbey--St. Grimbald--Destruction of - Tombs--Headbourne Worthy--King’s Worthy--The Nun’s Walk. - - -The west side of the George Hotel is in Jewry Street, the _ghetto_, a -name recalling the wealth, rapacity, and persecutions of this peculiar -people. They managed to obtain property and to increase in this city, -apparently in the thirteenth century, previous to which this street was -called Scowertene Street. In 1232 a story was circulated that a boy had -been tortured and murdered by them. - -“Invented, perhaps, by their debtors,” suggested Mr. Hertford. - -In Henry III.’s reign there was an order that the Jews in Winchester -should be taxed according to their ability, as in London; but when the -barons sacked the town they are said to have extirpated them. In 1268, -however, one of them was made a member of the Merchants’ Guild here, -the only fact, as far as I know, that corroborates the statement of -Richard of Devizes, that “Winchester alone, the people being prudent, -spared its vermin.” We have seen what became of “Aaron’s land,” and -that of the “son of Abraham” did not escape confiscation, for we find -that in Edward I.’s reign--“Thomas de Palmere was granted a messuage in -the great street of Winchester, valued at four shillings a year. It had -belonged to Benedict, son of Abraham the Jew, and had been forfeited -to the King.”[59] At a Parliament, held here in 1290, the Jews were -expelled from the country. - -Proceeding up the street, we pass on the right-hand side the old stable -in which “Master Say” was tortured in the time of the Civil War. A -little farther on, if we look up over the shops on the other side, we -shall plainly trace the outlines of a large building. This was once the -city gaol, built by James I., rebuilt in 1771, and the central portion -of it, where there is now an ironmonger’s shop, was the governor’s -house about twenty years since, and boasted a haunted chamber, in -which one of the debtors committed suicide. It was afterwards used for -the Museum until the Guildhall was built in 1873, and the gaol and -bridewell were removed to the Romsey Road. Farther on stands the Corn -Exchange and Cattle Market. - -[Sidenote: Hyde Street.] - -Crossing the City Road we went straight on into Hyde Street, which -seems like a continuation of Jewry Street. On the right Fossedyke House -commemorates the city walls and ditch. Farther on I noticed a relic -of the past--a small shop with a gable, very low rooms, and windows -scarcely more than a foot high. Two steps descended into it, a proof of -age--as either the soil outside has risen, or the owner has been, like -the Irishman, “raising his roof.” On the other side, we came to the -large malthouse of Mr. Dear, with walls of cut stone, formerly a barn -belonging to Hyde Abbey. - -Opposite, we see through a side street the “Soldiers’ Home.” This -was about fifty years ago the celebrated school of Mr. Richards, at -which were Deans Garnier and Gaisford, Lord Liverpool, George Canning, -Wolfe the poet, and perhaps Disraeli who was at a boarding school in -Winchester. It was afterwards the Museum, and is now used for Salvation -meetings. The Army has been “bombarding” Winchester for some time, and -now marches through the streets with Salvation guernseys, hallelujah -bonnets, and scarves white, red, and blue, to the music of drums, -trumpets, and cymbals. All this noise and dramatic show is attractive: -whether it makes people religious I cannot say, but it promotes the -cause of teetotalism. I went one day from curiosity to a “free and -easy” at the Corn Exchange, and observed that the congregation were -mostly men. Their attention was kept by the variations in the service, -by “knee-drill,” singing on the knees, clapping the hands, and singing -with the eyes shut. The preacher, an eloquent man, said they wanted -money to build a barrack in Parchment Street, which was to be somewhat -larger than the Cathedral! (a titter.) He added that some considered -that the Salvationists could do nothing right, nothing properly. -They even thought they could not make a collection properly, and he -was almost inclined to agree with them, when he saw the miserable -contributions there were last Sunday. - -[Sidenote: Hyde Abbey.] - -A Roman urn was found in this street; and in turning to the right, -down Alfred Place I noticed a corner-stone of a “Druidical” character. -In a few yards, we came to the little church of St. Bartholomew, with -a Norman entrance arch, rich in zig-zag--one-third restored. Here is -a stoup, and the lancet windows in the nave are in their original -positions. Close beside the churchyard is a building with an arch, -apparently the entrance to the monastery. On either side of the arch -is a head, much decayed, but the drawn-back hair can be traced, and the -crowns of Alfred and his son Edward, it is supposed. These carvings -seem older than the arch, which is only Tudor. In the massive wall -of an adjoining garden a low window was pointed out to me, now half -hidden in the soil; and until lately there was an arch visible beside -it, which is now walled up. Passing through the gate into the farmyard -I came to the stream which rises at Headbourne Worthy, and here runs -under a very primitive arch, which has some of the old monastery wall -still remaining on it. The rivulet flows round the black fence of the -Steam Laundry into a street, called from it, Upper Brooks. - -I found that the road past the monastery ended immediately, and learned -that the reason of this was that for a short time the Bridewell, for -which the ruins of Hyde Abbey were despoiled, stood till late years at -the termination. - -This information I obtained from a mechanic whom we met with. I was -desirous of obtaining local information, and asked him if there were -more ruins here. - -“Well, sir, I think there’s some of the old tackle up there,” he -replied, pointing in the direction of the barn. - -“Do you belong to this place?” I said. - -“Yes, sir,” he replied; “and for forty years I belonged to the devil.” - -I stared at him, for he was a most respectable-looking man. - -“Yes, sir, I did,” he continued. “But what a difference it makes to -a man when he has his eyes opened! I never used to pray. I used to -eat and drink and work, and go once a week to the organ-loft of St. -Bartholomew’s there, and have a sing, and thought that was all that was -necessary. How differently I feel now!” - -“Much better, no doubt,” I returned. “Have any ancient remains been -discovered here?” - -“Something less than twenty years ago a man was digging about the site -of this bridewell wherever they would let him. He was a long time at -it, but he had read books, and knew exactly where to go. He was a -strange sort of man, fond of bones and coffins, which he found and put -into the church.” - -[Sidenote: King Alfred.] - -Hyde Abbey, called the New Minster, previous to Norman times went on -its travels like the other Winchester institutions. It was founded by -Alfred close to the northern side of the Cathedral. He bought ground -for the chapel and dormitory, and perhaps built them, but left the -main work to be completed by his son. It was called the Monastery of -St. Grimbald. When Alfred went to Rome with St. Swithun, he stopped -for some days on his way at the convent of St. Bertin, in France, and -there sat, a lovely and studious child, at the feet of Grimbald. He -not only profited by the religious teaching, but conceived a great -affection for this gracious president, and sent for him to superintend -his new foundation. Grimbald came in 885, and the King and Archbishop -Ethred received him “as an angel.” A meeting was called, and Grimbald -made an effective speech, strongly condemning the sins of unchastity, -covetousness, lying, murder, and theft. He also spoke of pride and -gluttony, “through which our first parent was driven from his flowery -abode.” Alfred followed with a speech commending study to his nobility, -who were very illiterate at the time. - -Learning was then at a low ebb in England owing to the ravages of the -Danes, and in Winchester the churches had been despoiled, the priests -murdered, the nuns outraged, and Christianity nearly abolished. Alfred -resolved to reinstate it, and Grimbald was to teach the children of the -thanes as well as to give advice about the proposed monastery. - -Alfred died fifteen years after Grimbald’s arrival in England, and the -Annals tell us he was buried “becomingly, and with kingly honour in -the royal city of Winchester, in the church of St. Peter’s. His tomb -is still extant, made of the most precious porphyry marble.” Although -unwilling to say a word against the good monks of Hyde, I fear that it -must be admitted they were now guilty of a little trickery. The canons -of St. Swithun “foolishly thought they saw the disembodied spirit of -King Alfred moving about their habitation,” and I am afraid we must -conclude that some of the monks of Hyde, to obtain the valuable body of -the King, dressed themselves up as the ghost and frightened the poor -canons. Thus the corpse was transferred to the New Minster.[60] - -The monastery soon obtained another melancholy acquisition. The -building was finished in 903, and, Ponthieu in Picardy having been -ravaged, the inhabitants fled, and nobles and religious people came -swarming like bees to St. Grimbald, and brought with them the bones of -the sacred confessor St. Josse--a British prince. Grimbald received -this consignment with great honour, with a brilliant retinue of clergy, -and an immense concourse of the faithful. Miracles soon appeared, and -the dry bones brought life and livelihood into the monastery. At the -dedication of the basilica to the Sacred Trinity, St. Mary, St. Peter, -and St. Paul, there was a brilliant assembly, and farms were bestowed -by the King and nobles. Queen Emma afterwards gave the head of St. -Valentine. - -Grimbald, “a good singer and most learned in holy Scripture,” had a -conflict with the old scholars at Oxford, and was not well pleased at -the impartial manner in which Alfred decided it. As he became old he -withdrew himself, and lived privately in this Abbey at Winchester, -intent only upon psalms and hymns, and unwilling to speak of anything -secular. - -[Sidenote: Sword and Gown.] - -The New Monastery fared badly after the battle of Hastings. The Abbot -at this time was unfortunately an uncle of Harold. When he heard of -the Norman invasion he persuaded twelve stalwart brethren to take -the Saxon helmet, and, raising twenty additional men, marched to -Hastings with his little company. They took the sword in place of the -crucifix, and used it with such effect that they became conspicuous in -the conflict. The Abbot fell close to Harold. Perhaps their costume -attracted attention, they may have had gown and sword, but at any rate -William’s attention was attracted to them, and he determined to take -vengeance on an establishment whose members gave him so much trouble. -He confiscated some fifteen manors belonging to them--about 17,000 -acres of land, and he built his palace in such a position as greatly -to inconvenience them, shutting up the communication by St. Lawrence’s -into the High Street. - -It now became clearly recognized that the New Monastery was too much -confined, it was so close to St. Swithun’s that the ringing and singing -were “like sweet bells jangled.” The monks resolved to move outside the -city to Hyde Mead, though the ground in that locality was so springy -that they had to bring a quantity of clay, and to cover it, in some -places, four feet deep. The old site was given to St. Swithun’s, which -in return gave some land and some additional days at St. Giles’ fair. -In 1110 the fraternity moved in solemn procession, with all their -worldly goods, consisting mainly of the cross of Cnut, body of Alfred, -and some other old bones, into what promised to be a peaceful abode. - -[Sidenote: Treasures of Hyde.] - -But thirty years afterwards, on the occasion of the conflict between -Stephen and Matilda, the establishment was destroyed, as I have already -said, by Bishop de Blois sending fire balls at it out of Wolvesey. From -the representations now made to the Pope we learn how magnificently -adorned the church was, and how successful had been the miracles -there wrought. The flames melted the gold and silver, and the bishop -compelled the monks to give him the precious ashes, especially those of -the great cross, given by Cnut, which contained sixty pounds of silver, -and fifteen of gold, that king’s revenue for a year. - -[Illustration: CNUT AND EMMA (ÆLFGYFU) PLACING THE CROSS AT HYDE. - -(_From an Anglo-Saxon MS._)] - -There were three diadems of gold and precious stones worth £118, two -images adorned with gold and gems, worth £49. Of silver there were many -other valuables, the seal of the house, two patens, a vase for holy -water, and two lavers, nobly adorned with gold and gems, said to be of -Solomonic work, perhaps in imitation of those in the Jewish temple, -and worth £35. De Blois had endowed his hospital of St. Cross out of -the spoil, and the whole amount of damages claimed was not less than -£4,862, which might be multiplied by twenty to form a right estimate of -it at present. - -In consequence of the complaints sent to the Pope, the warlike bishop -had to make some restitution. But it was not till twenty-six years -afterwards (1167) that a goldsmith’s copy of the cross[61] was executed -and presented to the Convent. The restoration of the buildings was -gradual, and in 1312 part was still in ruins. - -Hyde Abbey, though planned by St. Grimbald with such excellent -intentions, was not free from the weakness inherent in all human -institutions. There was from 1182 such a flow of miracles from the -altar of St. Barnabas there that the monastery was sometimes spoken of -as if dedicated to that saint. Crowds of poor, sick, and infirm people -congregated there, and as the place declined in morality it grew in -celebrity, so that in 1390 William of Wykeham authorized the abbot to -use a mitre, ring and pastoral staff. - -In 1507 the vices attendant on wealth and luxury became so conspicuous -as to require rebuke. The good monks were making free use of the -taverns, and were bringing into the monastery women who were not of a -saintly character. The last abbot of Hyde, John Salcot, was “a great -cleark, and singularly learned in divinity.” He became Bishop of -Bangor, and then of Salisbury, and his principles were of the willow -pattern. At Windsor he tried three reformers, and condemned them to -be burnt, and burnt they were; but under Edward VI. he himself became -a reformer, and gave the Duke of Somerset several church manors. In -Mary’s reign he averred that his compliance with Edward’s wishes had -been caused by threats and from fear of his life, and sentenced Hooper -and Rogers and three others to the stake, where they were burned. - -[Sidenote: Spoliation.] - -Wriothesley writes in 1538, being the chief acting commissioner here: -“About three o’clock a.m., we made an end of the shrine of Winchester. -We think the silver will amount to near two thousand marks. Going to -bedsward we viewed the altar. Such a piece of work it is that we think -we shall not rid of it before Monday or Tuesday morning. Which done -we intend both at Hyde and St. Mary’s to sweep away all the rotten -bones, called relics, which we may not omit lest it should be thought -we came more for the treasure than for avoiding the abominations of -idolatry.” Wriothesley was granted several of the richest manors of -Hyde, and having a lease of the site, pulled down the abbey and sold -the materials. He made over the site to the Bethell family. The lands -he left to his children, but a failure of male descent, which no doubt -the Roman Catholics regarded as a judgment, caused the abbey manors -to be distributed to many families. Some of them went to Lady Rachel -Russell, a daughter of Thomas, Earl of Southampton. She lived much at -Stratton, where her letters were written. - -In 1788 the magistrates of Hampshire bought the site of the abbey to -erect a bridewell. Dr. Milner writes: “At almost every stroke of the -mattock or spade some ancient sepulchre or other was violated, the -venerable contents of which were treated with marked indignity.” A -crozier, patens, chalices, and rings, and “fantastic capitals” were now -found, stone coffins were broken and bones scattered. Three superior -coffins were found in front of the altar, and a slab, probably the base -of a statue of Alfred, which is now at Corby Castle, in Cumberland. It -is impossible to determine what relics were then destroyed. - -The bones found in 1867 lie under a stone marked simply with a cross, -beneath the east window of St. Bartholomew’s Church. They belonged -to five persons, supposed to be Alfred, his queen and two sons, and -St. Grimbald. The four first mentioned were found in a chalk vault, -at the east end of the church of Hyde Monastery. The bones of St. -Grimbald were in another chalk vault, under the chancel, near the north -transept, which extended where there is now a timber yard, on the east -side of the present church. In Milner’s time, the ruins of the church -nearly covered a meadow. St. Bartholomew’s was probably like the -church at Battle, built for the tenants and servants of the abbey. -The cut stones, with which its walls are studded, give it a chequered -or chessboard appearance, and suggest the spoliation of some earlier -building. But a portion at least, of the church existed long before -the destruction of the abbey. The alternation of squares of stone and -flintwork is an example of what was in times past a favourite device, -now known by architects as “diaper work.” - -[Sidenote: Walk to Headbourne.] - -Returning into Hyde Street, my friends went home; and I, walking on -towards the country, came to some pretty outskirts of Winchester. Here -are bright villas, covered with flowering rose-trees, and a thatched -cottage swathed in ivy. The road gradually becomes overshadowed on -both sides by beeches and elms, which soon give place on the left to -corn-fields, dotted over with children “gleazing,” while on the right -appears the long wall and fine plantations of Abbots Barton--an old -monastic farm. - -Just before coming to Headbourne Worthy, I passed two semi-detached -cottages of red brick, with ornamental windows. These cheerful -dwellings stand on a site of dark memory. Two years ago, a hayrick -was here, under which a couple of young sailors, tramping along the -road, took refuge at night from a storm. Though in this uncomfortable -position, they managed to quarrel about money--with which neither -was well provided--and at last the discussion grew so hot that the -elder--twenty-seven years of age--pursued the younger, a boy of -eighteen round the rick, with an open knife in his hand. The latter -cried aloud, but the wind and rain prevented his being heard, except by -a dog at a neighbouring cottage, who raised his voice in vain. At last -the deed was done, and the murderer took three shillings from the body, -which he covered up with hay. He then made off, but was captured and -executed. - -[Sidenote: A Winchester Scholar.] - -I now descend a hill between high grassy banks, and reach Headbourne -Worthy--the stately designation only signifying a village. The church -has a somewhat modern appearance outside, but, according to some, has -Saxon portions. At the west end, we find a small Norman arch leading -into the vestry, where there is a bas-relief, almost obliterated, of -the Crucifixion and two Marys, larger than life. It is supposed that -these figures were originally on the outer wall of the church, and that -the room in which they now are, in which an upper floor and piscina -are traceable, was a chapel built round them. There is in the church -a handsome piscina and some sedilia. But the chief pride of the little -sanctuary is a brass, said to be in a certain sense unique. It dates -from 1434, and is in memory of a boy who died when one of the scholars -at “New College” in Winchester. He stands here, with closely-cut -hair and a gown fastened down the front, giving a good idea of the -appearance of the scholars of that day. A scroll proceeds out of his -mouth, with the words, “Misericordiam Dm̄ inetm̄ cantabo,” which is -supposed to mean that he will sing the school chants eternally. - -I returned the keys to a small house, a few yards off, in the garden of -which I observed some of the finest “everlastings” I had seen in this -country. Beside it ran a grass-carpeted lane, down which a pedestrian -wishing to return to Winchester in a mile, and able to face an easy -fence, might turn to the right across a field and walk beside a bank -gay with knopweed, fleabane, and St. John’s wort, until he reached the -Nuns’ Walk. I, however, continued up the hill, and, passing a red-brick -house, with four splendid lignums in front of it, came to King’s -Worthy--once Crown property as the name denotes. - -There is nothing remarkable about the church, except a Norman arch at -the west entrance. The tombstones outside are sadly gay with wreaths -and floral crosses. Short-lived they are, for the fences not being -perfect cows stray in, and, unable to read of the virtues of the -deceased, munch up and trample on the offerings in a most unsentimental -manner. The body of the boy Parker, of whose murder I have spoken, -having been refused, as I was told, burial at Headbourne, was interred -here on the south-west side, and a headstone raised to his memory by -subscription. - -Crossing the graveyard to return home, I found myself in a field, where -stand two elms of immense height and girth. Then--in and out--under old -ivy-mantled trees--over a stile, and under the railway arch, I come -into a large oozy field, which eyebright loves, and where sleek cattle -are grazing; then I reach the clear Itchen, dozing and gleaming in the -sun. Here I am beside the river of Isaak Walton. I fancy that I can -see on the bank opposite, the quaint figure of the piscatorial draper, -who was always ready to exchange his yard stick for his fishing-rod, -and whose writing flows along as clearly and smoothly as the stream he -gazed on. Those who wish to know something of his bodily presence may -look at his statue by Miss Grant. - -[Sidenote: Brooks.] - -Awaking from my reverie, I cross by a plank bridge the rivulet which -passes Headbourne Church and rises just above it. This stream, which -accompanies the Nuns’ Walk, is said by some old writers to have been -conducted into Winchester by Æthelwold. It was evidently turned -artificially, perhaps by that eminent man; whoever directed it seems to -have raised the Nuns’ Walk to bank up the stream. - -Another rivulet running close beside it, drawn from the Itchen and -used for irrigation, is called the Mill Stream, from an old mill which -stood near: both flow in old water courses, as the willows along them -testify. I crossed over to the last mentioned, which was set with the -spears of bulrushes and gemmed with blue forget-me-nots, and walked on -beside it upon fronds of silver weed, gathering watercresses at times, -which seemed refreshing under the hot sun, till I crossed back into -the Nuns’ Walk. It is difficult to understand why this name was given -to the path, perhaps from its beauty; for it was far from the nunnery, -though close to Hyde Monastery. If the nuns frequented it, they must -have met the monks here. Let us hope on these trying occasions they -kept their eyes rivetted on their books, or “commercing with the -skies.” In the earlier period, however, the brethren were canons and -mostly married. Would that we could picture here the stately figure of -Bishop Æthelwold, whom their worldliness so deeply grieved! - -Continuing along the walk by the clear stream, and occasionally -startling a trout, which shot under the shade of the bank, I passed -Abbots Barton farm, with its mullioned windows and old sun-dial. -Farther on, I came to three little boys, fishing with landing -nets--would that Gainsborough could have seen that group! I asked them -whether they were successful; to which they replied-- - -“Oh, yes, we have caught several minnows, and some dog-fish.” - -“Dog-fish? What may they be?” - -“Some call them trotters,” they returned, and showed me the can in -which their take had been deposited; but although I looked attentively, -I could see nothing. They assured me, however, that they were there -safe enough, and I was glad they enjoyed the sport, though I could not -say much for the fry. - -[Sidenote: The Monster Trout.] - -Trudging on in the chequered light which the sunshine cast through the -glossy leaves of witch elms, I came to a man feeding ducks. It was one -o’clock, and he was eating his dinner of bread and cucumber, with -a clasp knife. Every minute he was throwing in pieces of bread, and -watching their scrambles. I stopped as I was passing. He looked at me -with a smile, and said-- - -“I think they are getting nearly as much as I am.” - -“You seem very liberal to them,” I replied. - -“Yes; but they ought not to be here. This is a nursery, and they eat -the small fish.” - -“Are there any large fish in the stream?” I inquired. - -“Oh, yes, very often; but I take them out and put them into the river. -The Itchen is the place for the large fish.” - -“What sized fish have you there?” - -“I have seen trout there of six or eight pounds, but one was caught -a few weeks ago that weighed sixteen pounds; and you can see it now, -stuffed, at Mr. Chalkley’s, near the Butter Cross.” - -“He must have been an old fellow.” - -“Oh, very. I should say, twenty years. I had known him in the upper -water for three years; but one time, when the hatch was open, he got -into the lower water and was then, in fact, in the town. Plenty of -people went out to try to catch him, but he escaped them for eighteen -months; but at last was taken off his guard.” - -“Have you any other fish here?” - -“There are a few perch in the river, but we don’t want them; there -ought to be none at all in it. Lower down, at Twyford, there are some -grayling; and at Bishopstoke, some salmon-ladders have been placed to -lead them up here, but they will not come.” - -The capture of the large trout to which he alluded had made quite a -sensation in Winchester. Not only was it stuffed and exhibited, but -its portrait was taken. It seems remarkable that though the fish had -been hooked so often, there were no barbs found in its mouth--this is -generally the case, they come out by some kindly provision of nature. -I need scarcely say that this veteran, when cooked, was not found -particularly tender. - -[Sidenote: Brooks.] - -To the east of the walk on which I stood, a rich pasture land extended, -looking very tempting for a stroll. It is divided into two farms--one -entered under the Hyde arch; the other by the Mill, at the farther end -of the town. The ground is intersected with dykes and rivulets, and -especially by one large clear stream, which enjoys the unsuitable name -of the Black Ditch. This feeds the “middle and lower brooks,” being led -along the streets so called. The “upper brook” street is supplied by -the stream which has travelled beside us from Headbourne, and, being -spring water, is thought better than the rest. My impression is that -the work of Æthelwold consisted in making the small canals or “brooks,” -which flow into the town from a few yards behind the City Road, and -perhaps some cutting across the meadow, and that the Headbourne stream -was banked up at a later period, after the building of Hyde Monastery, -through which it took a remarkably convenient course. - -The southern part of this pasture land was the scene of the famous -combat between Guy and Colbrand. Passing by some cottages covered with -ivy, and some gardens flaming with phlox, I found myself back at St. -Bartholomew’s Church. - - -FOOTNOTES: - - [59] Charter Rolls, 8 Ed. I. - - [60] The Cathedral was often called the Church of St. Swithun. - - [61] Malmsbury calls it an image of the crucifixion, with great - weight of gold, silver, and gems. - - - - -FIFTH DAY. - -The Cathedral--Early History--Dagon--St. Swithun--Æthelwold--The Vocal - Cross--Ordeal of Fire--Walkelin--Renovation of the Cathedral--Civil - War--Architecture--Nave--Isaak Walton--Relics and Monuments--De la - Roche--Frescoes--Ethelmar--Crypt. - - -Fifteen years ago I visited Winchester, and attended service in the -Cathedral. A verger, with the usual courtesy of his kind, showed -me into one of the “misery” stalls, and I found myself very happy -therein. The music was delightful. The boys’ voices seemed to waft me -up to heaven, and the bass sent me down below the earth. The latter -performance by one of commanding stature, who possessed something -worthy of being called an “organ,” greatly impressed me. As I was -passing out I observed to the verger, “That bass man is very grand.” - -“Oh, yes, sir,” he replied; “if you were to hear him hollow out, -‘Judge me,’ you would say it was the finest thing in the world.” - -“That is a somewhat modern experience,” observed Mr. Hertford. “Let us -hear something about the early history of the Cathedral.” - -“As early as you please,” I replied. “Warton tells us that ‘many -reputable historians report that this city was founded by Ludor Rous -Hudibras 892 years before Christ.’” - -“The name Hudibras,” returned Mr. Hertford, “suggests that they -belonged to the comic school.” - -[Sidenote: The Britons.] - -“Or poetic,” I continued, “Warton was poet-laureate, and his brother -was head-master here. But there is no doubt that the site on which this -Cathedral stands was of prehistoric sanctity. Hard by at the southern -gate of the Close we find in the road two Druidical monoliths. Was not -this a place where the long-haired, skin-clad Britons came to lay their -offerings? Did not some mighty chieftain repose here beneath a rude -dolmen? Below the crypt there is a well which reminds us of the holy -wells--such as that of Madron in Cornwall--changed by the early Church -from pagan to Christian veneration. - -“A wave of the wand of the great magician, Time, brings us to Roman -days. On the south and west are red-roofed villas, with spreading -courts. Close to us, on the east, stand the old temple of Concord, -and the new one to Apollo--low buildings, but large, and girdled by -pillars, with acanthus-leaved capitals, such as those we see to-day -lying on the grass at Silchester. Here pass the stately processions of -white-robed “flamens,” who here placed their principal British college. -But side by side with these time-honoured and worn-out institutions -grew up the Christian Church. King Lucius on his conversion gave to it -the possessions of these old priests, extending 2,000 paces on every -side of the city. He built a little house, with an oratory, dormitory, -and refectory, and placed in it monks of the order of St. Mark the -Evangelist. But his greatest work here was the construction of the -Church of St. Amphibalus, two hundred and nine paces long, eighty wide -and ninety high.[62]” - -“Paces?” interrupted Mr. Hertford, “what a stupendous structure! and -very ‘airy’ I should think. Are you sure that it was not built for the -marines?” - -“Large as it was,” I continued, “Lucius’s voice would have filled -it. We are told that when he became Bishop of Coire, in Switzerland, -he chose a rock for his pulpit--his finger-marks remain there to -prove it--and held forth so vehemently that he was heard twelve miles -off--about as far as thunder would be audible.” - -“You have evidently been among some of those jesting monks,” he said. - -“Oh, no; what I have narrated about Winchester is from no goliard, but -from Rudborne, a Benedictine of the place; a ‘sad’ fellow truly, but in -the older and better sense.” - -[Sidenote: The Saxons.] - -After a great destruction of monks and buildings during the Diocletian -persecution, the brethren rebuilt and re-entered their church--of -which Constans, son of Constantine, and afterwards Emperor, was then -high-priest--and had peace for two hundred and ten years. Then came, in -500, the terrible Cerdic, against whom King Arthur fought so valiantly. -He defeated the natives in a great battle where is now the New Forest, -and entered the city. The monks were slaughtered, and an image of Dagon -set up in the Christian church. We can scarcely picture the barbaric -scenes when this prince of the Saxons was crowned, and buried, in this -heathen temple. - -Why does Rudborne call this the temple of the Philistine god Dagon? -Perhaps it was merely a term of contempt, to signify an outlandish -deity. But we know that Dagon had a fish’s tail, and might it be that -the Saxons arriving by sea, invested their figure of Woden here with -some of the merman’s attributes? It is a curious coincidence--nothing -more--that the Roman pavement in the Museum, found in Minster Lane, -about a hundred yards from the west entrance of the Cathedral, is -ornamented with representations of dolphins.[63] - -“I am glad we have come to the Saxons,” said Mr. Hertford, “there is -something interesting about them. They lived in a fitful light. The -sun of civilization was struggling through the clouds of primitive -darkness. Literature was springing into life, with that centralization -which begets great achievements.” - -“A hundred and forty-two years after Cerdic we reach the light,” I -continued. “Cynegils destroyed this heathen temple and began to refound -Winchester Church, which his successor, Cenwalh, finished about the -middle of the seventh century. He dedicated it to St. Birinus, who had -been sent over by Pope Honorius. Hedda translated the bishopric of -the West Saxons from Dorchester to Winchester, and brought hither the -bones of Birinus, by means of which the neighbourhood soon began to be -blessed or cursed with miracles.” - -[Sidenote: St. Swithun.] - -We now reach the days of St. Swithun, who in his lifetime came down -upon the Church in showers not of water, but of gold. He induced -Athelwolf, Alfred’s father, to give tithes of the Crown lands, and the -grant was confirmed here by the King, in a grand ceremony before the -high altar of “St. Peter’s.” Swithun (a native of the place) was first -Prior and then Bishop of Winchester, and well deserved remembrance. -He moulded the mind of Alfred, and persuaded Ethelbald to put away -his mother-in-law, whom, by some eccentricity, he had married. From -feelings of humility, or fearing that his body would be utilized after -his death, Swithun ordered that he should be buried outside the church -on the west; where, writes Rudborne, “a little chapel can be seen on -the north of the Cathedral.” (This chapel, which has disappeared, was -probably not built until many years after the interment.) - -Æthelwold was a pillar of the Church. He repaired the nunnery founded -here by Alfred’s queen, and purchased the sites of Ely, Peterborough, -and the “Thorney” isle, on which the “Minster of the West” stands. He -rebuilt the Cathedral of St. Swithun--upon plans apparently of that -saint--assisting in the good work not only as an architect, but also as -a manual labourer. Great opposition was made to him by the “adversary,” -but he was supported by power from above. One day a great post fell -upon him breaking nearly all the ribs on one side of his body, and -but for his falling into a pit he would have been crushed altogether. -Another day one of the monks who were working on the highest part of -the church fell from the top to the bottom, but as soon as he touched -the earth and made the sign of the cross, he ascended in the sight -of all up to the place where he had stood, took up his trowel, and -continued his work as if nothing had happened! - -[Sidenote: The Saxon Cathedral.] - -The church thus miraculously raised is represented by Wolstan, who saw -it, as a wondrous edifice. It was built with “Dædalion” ingenuity. -There were so many buildings with altars round the nave that the -visitor would become confused, and not be able to find his way about. -A tower was added, detached, and so lofty that its golden beaks -(gargoyles) caught the rays of the rising sun and, with a little -stretch of imagination, “made perpetual day.” The crypts were like the -church, so large and intricate, that “a man in them could not find his -way out and did not know where he was.” The latter statement was true -in one sense, as the occupants were mostly kings and bishops, who were -brought in to be buried. - -Wolstan is grand upon the organ; indeed, he works it a little too hard. -He says that it sometimes sounded like thunder, and was heard all over -the city. Whatever its modulations may have been, it must have been -powerful, for there were twelve pairs of bellows, worked by “the arms -of seventy men with great labour and perspiration.” This instrument had -forty “musæ,” notes, I suppose, and was played by two of the brethren. - -The tower was surmounted by a rod with golden balls, which shone in the -moonbeams as if they were “stars upon earth.” On the top of all was a -splendid weather-cock. It was fitting that such a building should be -presided over by a brave bird. - -“The Winchester monk himself seems to have crowed pretty loudly over -it,” observed Mr. Hertford. - -Æthelwold had the body of Birinus, which Hedda had buried simply and -respectably, taken up and wrapped in sheets of silver and gold. He -was also conveniently admonished by a dream to move the body of St. -Swithun, and a curious Saxon account of this direction is extant.[64] -The saint, in shining light and full canonicals, appeared to an old -smith, and told him to send to Æthelwold to remove his bones. - -“Oh! sire,” replied the smith, “he will not believe my word.” - -“Then,” quoth the saint, “let him go to my burial-place and draw up a -ring out of the coffin, and if the ring yields at the first tug then -wot he of a truth that I sent thee to him.” - -[Sidenote: Miracles.] - -The smith was still afraid, but when the saint had appeared three times -to him he went to the tomb and took hold of the ring, which came out of -the stone at once. But it was some years after this, before the cures -wrought led to Æthelwold’s translating the body. The bishop took it -out of the “poor tomb,” where it had rested for 110 years, and had it -placed in a sheet of gold. He made this translation the occasion for -a great demonstration, by which a vast crowd of people was collected; -and the relics which had produced nothing in the days of the secular -canons, now, under the care of the monks became the source of countless -miracles--not much to the credit of the latter custodians. Within the -ten days succeeding its removal, two hundred persons were healed, and -afterwards sometimes eighteen a day. The graveyard was so covered with -the diseased lying about that it was almost impossible to reach the -church. - -“I should not have attempted it,” interposed Mr. Hertford. - -“Well; it would have been worth seeing,” I replied, “for it was hung -round from one end to the other with crutches and cripples’ stools, and -even so they could not put half of them up.” - -“It is difficult to suppose,” said Mr. Hertford, thoughtfully, “that -all the money that was given for pretended miracles was paid for -nothing. Persons whose constitutions or disorders were of a nervous -character probably received some benefit. Their spirits would be raised -by their anticipations and the brilliance of the scene. Some recovered -from natural causes, and those who grew worse soon died, or were not -inclined to be profane in their sufferings. You remember the remark of -Diogenes?” - -“I have read some things he said,” I returned, “and some attributed to -him which he did not say.” - -“He was visiting a temple,” continued Mr. Hertford, “and was shown the -offerings made by those who had been cured. ‘Yes,’ he replied to the -priest; ‘but if those who had not been cured had offered gifts, they -would have been far more numerous.’” - -It is said that the transference of St. Swithun’s body, which had lain -between the old wooden tower and the church, was delayed by forty days’ -rain--and hence the proverb. The postponement may seem strange, as the -tomb was but a few feet from the church; but it was a main object to -have a great concourse of people. - -And let me here notice a coincidence. We know that in the early -centuries sun worship was much intermingled with Christianity; we have -traces of it in our “Sunday,” in the orientation of churches, and -several observances. - -It has been maintained that the Elias of Scripture--the great herald -and harbinger--in some way represented the sun, Helios, and in modern -Greece that luminary is personified, and St. Elias is supposed to -preside over the rainfall. The churches to this saint stand on the -sites of ancient temples to Apollo, and here at Winchester we have a -cathedral close to the site of a temple of Apollo, dedicated to St. -Swithun, who regulates the weather. - -Æthelwold acquired the reputation of being a prophet, in a manner which -does not reflect much credit upon some of his friends. During Lent he -preached a powerful sermon on mortification, telling the people to -abstain from meat, courtship, and other pleasant things. On hearing -this, some wild fellow among the crowd made a profane jest, and the -bishop, in reply, said that he foresaw his approaching death. Next -morning the offender was found really dead, “his throat cut by the -devil.” - -Many bodies of the great were moved by this bishop, and, in turn, after -he himself had been buried, he was taken up and made to work. - -[Sidenote: The Monks’ Success.] - -In these days of Dunstan there was great activity in ecclesiastical -affairs, a great conflict between the priests and monks. The authority -of the Pope, which had not been hitherto fully recognized by the -English Church, was now established. We are told that the canons -of Winchester shirked the trouble of chanting, consumed in country -residences the goods of the Church, and deputed their duties to -poorly-paid vicars. “The Golden History” states that the canons were -in the habit of turning off the wives they had illicitly taken, and -taking others, and were guilty of gluttony and drunkenness. Such were -the charges made against them by the monks, and the King turned out -the canons of the old and new monasteries (St. Swithun’s and Hyde); -but it may be observed that in the early English Church marriage of -priests was not forbidden. We read that at the New Monastery all the -canons were in 968 called on to take the Benedictine habit, “and robes -and cowls were brought into the choir,” Dunstan having established the -Benedictines in England. But the old clergy were not without friends, -and determined not to yield without a struggle. A great meeting was -held in the refectory of the old monastery. All the magnates of the -country came to support the dispossessed canons; on the other side -were Oswald, Archbishop of York, Æthelwold, Bishop of Winchester, and -the monks. Dunstan sat next to King Edgar, who had his back to the -wall, whereon was a cross, placed there it is remarked, in the days of -Ethelred, when the canons first succeeded the slaughtered monks. The -temporal lords now promised that the canons would reform their manners, -and begged for their restitution. Edgar was moved by their “sighs and -tears,” and was about to consent, when Dunstan’s genius, heaven-born or -not, came to the assistance of the monks. A voice suddenly came from -an image on the cross behind Edgar, “Let this not be; ye have judged -well. Ye may not change for the better.” Edgar and Dunstan alone heard -the voice. They were struck dumb, and fell to the ground. The voice was -then heard a second time: “Arise, fear not, for justice and peace have -kissed each other in the monks.” - -“It is evident that the speaker, whoever he was, had no sense of the -ludicrous,” said Mr. Hertford. - -“We are led,” I added, “to think of the peculiar orifice there is in -the Castle Hall just behind the daïs.” - -[Sidenote: Cathedral Treasures.] - -When the Danes obtained the sovereignty the butter-boat of the monks -was still safe. Cnut enriched the Cathedral with a mass of gold and -silver and of jewels, the brilliance of which “frightened strangers.” -His own crown, either in his lifetime, or more probably after his body -had lain in State before the high altar, was placed on the head of the -Saviour, on the Cross which stood here. He gave a splendid shrine for -Birinus, and a silver candelabrum with six branches. A magnificent -golden cross, two large images of gold and silver, and shrines for -relics were also bestowed.[65] Much of this munificence was suggested -by his queen, Emma, who was a devotee.[66] She had Alwyn, a relation -of her own, made Bishop of Winchester. Perhaps her partiality for -this monastery caused some jealousy, for after her son, Edward the -Confessor, had been crowned here in 1042, she was accused of being -improperly familiar with the bishop, of consenting to the death of her -son, Alfred and of opposing Edward’s accession. The King himself came -down here in disguise to watch her, and soon her treasury in Winchester -was seized, and she was compelled to retire to the convent of Wherwell. -We are told that she felt greatly her reduced circumstances, “because -the worst part of poverty was that it made people contemptible.” A -memorable, if not legendary, scene is now recorded by Rudborne. “Emma -the Lady,” once the “Flower of Normandy,” demands to have her innocence -tried by walking over red-hot ploughshares. The day draws near. She -spends the night in prayers and tears, and in visiting the tomb of St. -Swithun: the saint bids her be of good courage. Next morning a crowd -of clergy and laity collect in the Cathedral; the King is in his State -robes. Nine dreadful red-hot ploughshares are brought forth. The Queen -advances and addresses the King. “My lord and son, I, Emma, that bore -you, accused before you of crimes against you and Alfred, my son, and -of base conduct with Alwyn the bishop, call God to witness in my person -whether I have had in my mind any of these things attributed to me.” -She then throws off her outer robe and takes off her shoes. A tremor of -terror passes through the vast multitude, and the cry rends the air, -“St. Swithun, save her!” Rudborne does not minimize it; he says that -it was so loud that the saint must have come then or never. “Heaven -suffers violence, and St. Swithun is dragged down by force”--such are -his words. Thus encouraged, the Queen advances between two bishops, -and walks over the ploughshares, with her eyes turned towards heaven, -exclaiming, “God, who delivered Susannah from the wicked old men, and -the boys from the furnace, deliver me, for the sake of St. Swithun.” -She seemed to be walking “on roses,” and so little did she feel the -fire that when all was over she asked when the trial was to begin! - -[Sidenote: Ordeal by Fire.] - -We cannot spoil the prettiest picture in Winchester’s history by a -suggestion of falsehood or over-colouring. One of the ploughshares is -said to have been afterwards found; and, as to the feat, there was no -difficulty, for was she not treading on ground radiant with miracles? - -Under the Conqueror and Rufus the Cathedral was rebuilt, with the -exception of the tower, by his kinsman, Walkelin. This bishop was an -estimable man, and possessed such an unusual disposition that, although -ascetic himself, he was tolerant to others. Never was he known to speak -a harsh word, and, it is said, that he loved the monks “as if they were -divinities.” The man who built this great edifice, and much of whose -work still remains, neither ate fish nor flesh. - -“The vegetarians ought to be proud of him,” observed Mr. Hertford. - -“And the teetotalers,” I continued, “will be glad to hear that he very -seldom touched wine or beer. His end was sad. Rufus demanded £200 -from him, and he knowing that he could not obtain that sum without -oppressing the poor or despoiling the Church, prayed that he might -die; and we are told that ten days afterwards his prayer was granted, -but we hear no details about it. His brother Simeon, at one time prior -here, was of an equally genial disposition. Being shocked at the sight -of the monks devouring meat on the fast days, he ordered some fish to -be exquisitely cooked and set before them. The brethren relished the -dish so much that they said they never wished to eat meat any more, and -by this savoury device the worthy prior enabled them to indulge their -appetites without endangering their souls.” - -How it must have grieved the soul of Walkelin to be associated with -such a creature as Ralph Flambard, who was a contrast to him in -everything! When the King went abroad the entire government of the -country was committed to these two opposing spirits. Flambard was -unscrupulous and ingenious, and but for the injury done to religion -there would seem to have been something almost comic in his career. -Rufus, whose chaplain he was, never tired of heaping promotion upon one -as unprincipled as himself. He was made Abbot of Hyde at Winchester, -Bishop of Chichester, and Bishop of Lincoln. Many of the churches under -his supervision were without priests or ministrations, and such were -his exactions from rich and poor that they “did not care whether they -were dead or alive.” This genius was thrown into prison by Henry I. -when he came to the throne, but was too slippery for him: soon made his -escape, and was over in Normandy abetting Duke Robert, who had a right -to the English crown, and managing affairs so skilfully that upon a -temporary reconciliation between the brothers, Flambard was received -back and made Bishop of Durham. - -[Sidenote: Scandals.] - -A few years later the bishop’s misdoings became so notorious that -reports of them reached Rome, and the Pope’s legate, John de Crema, -was directed to visit the diocese and make inquiries. Flambard was -equal to the occasion. He received the legate with great ceremony, and -entertained him at a sumptuous banquet. While the bowl was flowing, -he introduced him to his niece, whom he instructed to do her best to -captivate him. John, who it seems had not the gifts of St. Anthony, was -soon “with love and wine at once oppressed,” fell into the trap, and -finally arranged with the fair deceiver to come to his room. She kept -her promise only too faithfully. But scarcely had she entered when in -rushed the bishop with a crowd of priests and acolytes carrying lamps -and goblets, and calling out “Benedicite, benedicite! we congratulate -you on your marriage--drink--we drink your health!” The legate was -overwhelmed with confusion. Before daybreak he was up and off on his -way to Rome leaving the gay bishop and his peccadilloes to take care of -themselves.[67] - -The history of this Cathedral has not been entirely one of peace. In -1188 armed men were brought into it, who, at the instigation of certain -nobles, “not afraid to lift their hands against God’s anointed, dragged -forth some of God’s servants.” In 1274, Andrew, Prior of Winchester, -came here with a body of armed men. Sentinels were placed by the -bishop to prevent their entering, and the prior made an attack on the -third day. The bishop called his adherents together, barricaded the -Cathedral, and excommunicated the prior. The King hearing of this -immediately sent down justiciaries, and cooled by terms of imprisonment -the “anger in celestial minds.” - -[Sidenote: Construction.] - -By the time two hundred and fifty years had elapsed, Walkelin’s -nave had become somewhat dilapidated, and Bishop Edington undertook -its renovation. He built the west porch and one of the westernmost -windows in the south aisle and two in the north. Wykeham carried on -the good work for ten years, till his death in 1404, having commenced -it as a septuagenarian. He finished the south aisle and began the -north, and left 500 marks to glaze the windows. His work was that of -adaptation--pulling down the triforium and casing the pillars. Portions -of the old Norman pillars, then concealed by chapels, can still be seen -near the stairs to the choir. - -[Illustration: Wykeham’s Tomb] - -The work of construction was finished by Cardinal Beaufort and -Bishop Wayneflete. We now come to a less pleasing subject for -consideration--the work of demolition. - -“Thomas did us more harm than Oliver”--such is the saying at -Winchester. Among the spoils which the creatures of the former -catalogued here for Henry VIII., we find:-- - - “_Imprimus._ The nether part of the high altar being of plate of gold - garnished with stones. The front above being of broidery work and - pearls, and above that a table of images of silver and gilt, garnished - with stones. - - “_Item._ Above that altar a great cross and an image of plate of gold. - - “_Item._ Behind the high altar, St. Swithun’s shrine, being of plate - of silver and gilt, garnished with stones. - - “_Item._ In the body of the Church a great cross and an image of - Christ and Mary and John, being of plate silver, partly gilt. - - “The treasures of gold are-- - - Five crosses garnished with silver. - One pair of candlesticks. - Three chalices--one with stones. - Four Pontifical rings. - Two saints’ arms in plate of gold.[68] - St. Philip’s foot in plate of gold and stones. - A book of the four Evangelists written all with gold and the outer - side of plate of gold.” - - -[Sidenote: Demolition.] - -[Illustration: A Fragment of the Chapter House.] - -Bishop Horne, who died in 1580, and was buried near Bishop Edington’s -chantry, was a detrimental reformer. To make himself conspicuous in -taking what appeared to be the winning side he did a great amount -of damage to the Cathedral, not only removing crucifix, images, and -paintings, but actually knocking down the cloisters and chapter-house. -A few arches on the back of the Deanery still remain sad memorials of -these buildings, and of his misdirected zeal. - -[Sidenote: Civil War.] - -Much damage, but of a more petty character, was done here by the -Roundhead soldiery during the Civil War. In the middle of December, -1642, the city, having been taken by Waller, was pillaged and the -Cathedral doors burst open. “As if they meant to invade God Himself -as well as His profession,” writes Mercurius, “they enter the Church -with colours flying, drums beating, matches fired; and that all might -have their part in so horrid an attempt, some of their troops of horse -also accompanied them in their march, and rode up through the body of -the church and choir until they came to the altar: there they begin -their work, they rudely plucked down the table and break the rail, -and afterwards carried it to an alehouse; they set it on fire, and -in that fire burnt the books of Common Prayer, and all the singing -books belonging to the choir; they throw down the organ and break the -stones of the Old and New Testament, curiously cut out in carved work, -beautified with colours, and set round about the top of the stalls of -the choir; from hence they turn to the monuments of the dead, some they -utterly demolish, others they deface. They begin with Bishop Fox’s -chapel which they utterly deface, they break all the glass windows of -this chapel not because they had any pictures in them, but because they -were of coloured glass, they demolished and overturned the monuments of -Cardinal Beaufort, they deface the monument of William of Wayneflet, -Bishop of Winchester, Lord Chancellor of England, and founder of -Magdalen College, Oxford. From thence they go into Queen Mary’s Chapel, -so called because in it she was married to King Philip of Spain; here -they break the communion table in pieces, and the velvet chair whereon -she sat when she was married.” After speaking of the chests containing -the bones of kings and others, the narrative proceeds: “But these -monsters of men to whom nothing is holy, nothing sacred, did not stick -to profane and violate these cabinets of the dead, and to scatter -their bones all over the pavement of the church; for on the north side -of the choir they threw down the chests wherein were deposited the -bones of the bishops; the like they did to the bones of William Rufus, -of Queen Emma, of Harthacnut, and of Edward the Confessor, and were -going on to practise the same impiety on the bones of all the rest of -the West Saxon kings. But the outcry of the people detesting so great -inhumanity, caused some of their commanders to come in amongst them -and to restrain their madness. Those windows which they could not -reach with their weapons they broke by throwing at them the bones of -kings and saints. They broke off the swords from the brass statues -of James I. and Charles I., which then stood at the entrance to the -choir, breaking also the cross on the globe in the hand of Charles I., -and hacked and hewed the crown on the head of it, swearing they would -bring him back to his Parliament.... After all this, as if what they -had already done were all too little, they go on in their horrible -wickedness, they seize upon all the communion plate, the Bibles and -service books, rich hangings, large cushions of velvet, all the pulpit -cloths, some whereof were of cloth of silver, some of cloth of gold. -And now, having ransacked the church, and defied God in His own house -and the king in his own statue, having violated the urns of the dead, -having abused the bones and scattered the ashes of deceased monarchs, -bishops, saints, and confessors, they return in triumph bearing their -spoils with them. The troopers (because they were the most conspicuous) -ride through the streets in surplices with such hoods and tippets -as they found, and that they might boast to the world how glorious -a victory they had achieved they hold out their trophies to all -spectators, for the troopers thus clad in the priests’ vestments, rode -carrying Common Prayer books in one hand and some broken organ pipes, -together with the mangled pieces of carved work in the other.”[69] - -“The last part of your narrative makes me feel melancholy,” said Miss -Hertford. “Let us go into the fresh air and see the Cathedral which has -survived these Goths and Vandals.” - -[Sidenote: The Square.] - -We accordingly made our way down the High Street, and proceeded -through the passage by the Butter Cross. Passing through the Square, -we stopped before entering the graveyard to visit Mr. Chalkley’s, the -taxidermist’s--which may be regarded as a kind of “dead-alive” place. -Here are the beautiful remains of natives of many sunny climes. Can we -suppose that such little beings with cherub wings and voices are-- - - “Denied in heaven the souls they held on earth”? - -Opposite we observed the Mechanics Institute, on the site of -which--then at the south side of the Market--there was, until 1790, -an anomalous building--a butchery below, a theatre above. There were -plenty of stalls here, containing, not cushions, but meat, and along -them and at the corners stood strong oaken columns, while hooks for -joints were fastened into the rafters which supported the floor of the -theatre. Warton humorously describes this strange combination-- - - “Divided only by one flight of stairs - The monarch swaggers and the butcher swears! - Quick the transition when the curtain drops - From meek Monimia’s moans to mutton chops! - While for Lothario’s loss Lavinia cries, - Old women scold and dealers d---- your eyes. - Cleavers and scimitars give blow for blow, - And heroes bleed above and sheep below! - Cow-horns and trumpets mix their martial tones, - Kidneys and kings, mouthing and marrow bones.” - -The fashionable patrons of the drama must have been shocked not only -at the sight of the butchers’ business, but also at that of the -iron fastenings of various heights and sizes to hold the hands and -feet of vagrants during flogging, all of which were placed close to -the entrance of the theatre. The cries of suffering culprits would -have formed a discordant accompaniment to the harmonies of the -orchestra.[70] - -We now approach the Cathedral, through the avenue of tall lime trees. -Enthusiasts say they were planted by Charles II., and let us hope that -was the case, for he is the last monarch around whom there is any halo -of romance. He had certainly a design to connect the Palace with the -Cathedral by means of an avenue. But the tradition which points to one -of the larger elms on the south side of the Cathedral as having been -planted by his hand, appears to me more credible. - -[Sidenote: West Front.] - -“What an immense west window,” exclaimed Mr. Hertford. “It seems to -monopolize all the façade and to be out of proportion to the stone-work -around it--a very large picture in a very narrow frame.” - -“This was the work of Bishop Edington,” I observed, “begun about 1345. -He did not like the ‘dim religious light’ of the Middle Ages.” - -What a different front did the Norman knights here behold; something -as stern and cold as their own iron armour. A vast blank face of -masonry rose before them, broken only by a few plain, round-headed -windows, without even a pane of glass to reflect the setting sun.[71] -There is proof from excavations, and some remains in the wall of the -garden on the south, that some kind of portico was commenced in front -of the present façade, with a tower forty feet square at either end, -but that the work was abandoned a few feet above ground. The interior -was also severe. The pillars indeed were about the same size and height -as those we now see--their Norman terminations still remain under the -roof--and the eight westernmost on the south side have not been even -re-cased, but only slightly chiselled into rounder form. But they -did not originally break into graceful fans upon the vaulting, nor -were there between them lofty arches crowned with ornamental windows. -No; the spaces were occupied by three tiers of low, round arches, -producing a monotonous effect, such as we still see in the transepts. -The vaulting of the side aisles was also low and heavy, supporting the -deep triforium gallery. The whole structure had a Spartan simplicity -and strength characteristic of a rude age. It terminated eastward in -an apse under the place where now glows the stained-glass window of -Bishop Fox.[72] - -[Illustration: _In the North Transept._] - -Such was the building to which the body of Rufus “dropping blood” -was brought by night in a peasant’s cart, and where it was buried -with little lamentation. Seven years afterwards the great tower fell, -because, as the monks thought, it could not bear to have such a wicked -man buried under it. - -[Sidenote: The Nave.] - -On entering, the full effect of the great length and height is -felt.[73] We seem to be looking down a lofty avenue in some primeval -forest. This is the most beautiful nave in England or in the world, 250 -feet long and 77 feet high. Truly this pile was not raised by the - - “lore - Of nicely calculated less or more;” - -but by men-- - - “With a far look in their immortal eyes.” - -High in front of us under the eastern gable stands the glorious window -erected by Bishop Fox, in the reign of Henry VII., when the staining of -glass reached a supreme excellence never before or afterwards attained. -It would appear from the fragments in the aisle windows that they were -all at one time coloured, but the Roundheads smashed them, and the -pieces collected were placed in the west window, where they form a sort -of farrago or confusion--an edifying emblem of the destructive results -of revolution.[74] - -[Illustration: King James] - -On either side just within the main entrance stands the figure of a -king. They have a somewhat Ethiopian appearance and I took them for -the sovereigns of Arabia and Saba. But they really represent the First -James and Charles. They seem to be handling their sceptres in a very -formidable manner, as if they had still Waller’s rabble in front of -them; and we read that they had swords, which were broken off by the -rebels. These figures have a family likeness to that at Charing -Cross, which was by the same man, Le Soeur. They were placed by Charles -I. in front of the rood screen of Inigo Jones. That monarch “of blessed -memory” also moved the organ to the side, so that an uninterrupted view -could be obtained up the Cathedral. - -[Sidenote: The Font.] - -On the right-hand side stands the celebrated font--a heavy mass of -black basalt, supposed to be Byzantine, and of the same character as -that at East Meon. The figures on it have a little the appearance -of marionettes, and there is, in truth, some unreality about the -representation which records the miracles of St. Nicholas. A monk -has written an account of the events here brought before us--how St. -Nicholas saved three virgins from disgrace, stilled a storm, restored a -sailor to life, healed the sick, and saved three condemned men. Death -itself could not stop the saint’s beneficence, for after his decease -he restored a child who had fallen overboard with a golden cup. Behind -the font on the wall of the north aisle are memorials to two remarkable -women. Miss Austen is still thought by some of the old school to be the -queen of novelists, and the fact that her works are still published -proves their merit. - -“I like ‘Pride and Prejudice’ very much,” said Miss Hertford. - -The other lady here commemorated, Mrs. Montagu, was a Shakspearian, -lived among the learned and eminent, and founded the Blue Stocking Club. - -“I remember well the house she built,” replied Mr. Hertford; “it stood -like a respectable old country house in its garden in Portman Square, -and has been enlarged into Lord Portman’s mansion. She covered her -drawing-room walls with feathers, as Cowper writes:-- - - “‘The birds put off their every hue - To dress a house for Montagu.’ - -What a gay May-day the sweeps had with their ribbons, flowers, and -feasting in the good lady’s time! We read on this tablet that she -had ‘the united advantages of beauty, wit, judgment, reputation, and -riches.’” - -“What a happy woman!” exclaimed Miss Hertford. “I once heard a girl -asked which she would rather be--handsome, clever, or rich. The -questioner never imagined that any one could be all three.” - -Higher up on the same side, near the stairs, is a memorial to Boles, -the Royalist “Collonell of a Ridgment of Foot who did _wounders_ at the -Battle of Edgehill.” No doubt he did, for when finally he was, with -eighty men, surrounded by five thousand rebels in the church at Alton, -he held out for six hours, and after killing six or seven with his own -sword was himself slain with sixty of his men. - -“Winchester is rich in monuments,” I said. “It preceded Westminster as -the burial-place of the great and has, with that exception, more human -interest than any other sacred edifice in England.” - -[Sidenote: Wykeham’s Chantry.] - -On the opposite side of the Nave stands the Chantry of Wykeham, of -great height and beautiful elaboration.[75] It happens by design or -accident that if we supposed our Lord’s body to be lying on the cross -of the original Cathedral, the site of this monument would correspond -with the wound in His side. This was the favourite spot at which -Wykeham prayed when a boy, before an altar to the Virgin; and here he -built his tomb, on which his figure has reposed for nearly five hundred -years, and where it may remain for five hundred more. The good he did -was not destined to be “interred with his bones,” and the line on the -resting-place of Wren, whose truth impresses the reader, might without -impropriety have been also engraved here-- - - “Si monumentum quæras, circumspice.” - -It is the rare privilege of Winchester to have here, face to face in the -Palace and Cathedral, two of the most important works of these great -master builders. - -Higher up the nave is the Chantry of Bishop Edington, earlier and less -ornamental than that of Wykeham. He is the prelate who was offered the -Archbishopric of Canterbury and made the shrewd and sportive reply, -“If Canterbury is the higher rank, Winchester is the better manger.” -The date is placed in a fanciful way at the end of the inscription “M -thrice C with LXV and I.” - -On the bishop’s vestment there is a curious emblem of a cruciform -shape, called a Fylfot or Suastika. It is stated to signify submission -to the will of God, and to have been a symbol prior to Christianity. - -[Sidenote: Tomb of Rufus.] - -From this point we wander into the Choir, and admire the tall carved -spires of oak, blackened by the airs of six centuries. A verger turns -up the seats to show us the quaint carvings of an age when humour did -not seem distasteful in churches--here is a pig playing the fiddle, -another chanting, and a third blowing the trumpet. In the centre of the -pavement lies the sphinx of the Cathedral--rude, archaic, enigmatical. -It has been surmised to be the tomb of some royal Saxon, or of -Bishop de Blois. Winchester men continue to swear it is that of -Rufus, who was “buried in the choir,” but that king’s bones seem, from -an inscription on one of the neighbouring coffers, to have been chested -and perched up by Fox. Everything about it is a puzzle. The rebels in -the Civil War broke it open and found a silver chalice, a gold ring, -and pieces of cloth of gold, within it. This has led to the supposition -that De Blois rested here. In 1868 it was again opened, and one of the -vergers told me he had handled the bones, had seen beside them the -arrow-head with which the king was killed, and had remarked what an -excellent set of teeth he possessed. Remains of cloth of gold and other -tissues were discovered, and seven gold Norman braids finely worked, as -we can see in the library, where they are preserved.[76] - -[Illustration: The Choir from the Nave.] - -The altar screen must have been most effective when the figures -remained. Dean Kitchin has given a tantalizing account of it, and -during the Civil War a wall was built before it. But throughout the -last century, the niches were filled with modern vases, the gift of an -excellent prebendary, Master Harris, whose zeal was greater than his -taste. - -Leaving the learned to fight the dusty battle of Rufus and De Blois, -we make our way to the iron gate, and each deposit the silver obolus -to admit us to the realms of the departed. Here a group of visitors is -waiting, and we look up at the interesting Norman work in the south -transept. There are good reasons for supposing that the transepts were -not built continuously--a change of plan can be traced--and it would -seem that there was at one time an intention of placing a couple of -towers at the end of each transept. The great central tower also was -erected later--after Walkelin’s death. - -[Sidenote: Isaak Walton.] - -Just before me stands an old oak settle, perhaps nearly coeval with -the transept. How many generations of monks have sat on it and warmed -their withered hands over a pan of charcoal! I could almost imagine -that on certain days their ghosts may perambulate their old haunts, -and seat themselves here again. In the centre of the transept lies -Bishop Wilberforce. On the east side is Prior Silkstede’s Chapel, as -it is called. It is now a vestry, and here Isaak Walton is literally -trodden under foot. In answer to my inquiries, the verger pulled up -the matting and showed his slab inscribed with Bishop Ken’s[77] verses. -They are not worthy of the author of the morning and evening hymns. -They inform us that he lived-- - - “Full ninety years and past - But now he hath begun - That which will ne’er be done. - Crowned with eternal Blisse - We wish our souls with his.” - -Isaak was an erect, hale old man to the last. He was a theologian, and -we hear that to atone for long neglect, a statue to him is about to be -placed on the screen, beside the saintly Fishermen. - -“I wish that Andrews, Bishop of Winchester, had been buried here,” -said Mr. Hertford, “and that we had an epitaph on him by Milton. The -elegiacs he wrote on his death were as beautiful as ‘Lycidas.’” - -And now all are ready, and we advance along the aisle behind the choir, -and come in sight of the “presbytery screen,” some arches surmounted by -coffers, which look like small locomotives on a railway viaduct. All -this was the work of Fox, who was bishop in the reigns of the Henrys -(VII. and VIII.). He built the clerestory and vaulting of this part. -We look up at the roof and remark the bosses exhibiting the Tudor arms -and other heraldic emblems dear to Fox; while beyond, in the vaulting -of Bishop Lucy, the devices are more scriptural, including not only -the instruments of the Passion, but the faces of Pilate and his better -half, and Peter’s sword with Malchus’ ear upon it. - -The bones of the Saxon kings and bishops buried in the Cathedral, had -been well dried and preserved, having been placed in stone coffins -pierced with holes. Fox piously collected them into these chests, on -which he inscribed the venerated names of their owners.[78] He hoisted -them up, having great confidence in the safety gained by elevation, and -his trust was justified, with regard to his window in the gable and his -statue above it, but in respect of these chests, he did not rightly -measure the height to which mob violence might attain. After the storm -had passed away, the bones were collected and replaced, but no one knew -what remains were stored in any particular chest. A small set of bones -has been thought to have belonged to Queen Emma. There are twelve -names, and as late as 1845, the confused contents were all safe; but by -1873, one of the twelve skulls was gone. - -“Purloined, perchance, by some over-zealous phrenologist, whose -principles were not more sound than his theories,” said Mr. Hertford. - -[Sidenote: Fox’s Chantry.] - -We now come to Fox’s Chantry, and admire the diversified stone carving -of the exterior. It is most refined and in the best taste, while the -figure of Death stretched beneath it is in the worst, and reminds us of -the skull and cross-bones, with which headstones were formerly adorned. -We enter, and think we can see the dark ascetic bishop kneeling in -his little stone study, for hither when blind, in his old age, he -was led daily for prayer. His memory will ever be cherished lovingly -here, and in Oxford, where he founded Corpus Christi College. Through -this chantry, we reach the Feretory (from _feretra_, biers). Here, in -ancient times, the gold and silver shrines of Birinus, Swithun, and -other saints, the head of St. Just, and one of the feet of St. Philip, -stood upon a platform higher than the present one, and reflected a -holy light upon the worshippers in the choir. The contents of the -feretory are now not so brilliant, though interesting. Here lies a -prostrate giant--a figure of Bishop Edington--which was once perched -up over the west front, but becoming dilapidated, was replaced by that -of Wykeham. Here is the lid, or side of a reliquary chest (1309) with -sacred subjects painted on its panels. The other remains are melancholy -to behold, heads and portions of the bodies of statues found about the -Cathedral. - -“It looks like an old curiosity shop, or a sculptor’s studio,” observed -Miss Hertford. - -“And it reminds me,” chimed in her father, “of a story I heard about -some country labourers, who had been visiting the British Museum. When -asked how they liked it, they said, ‘Very much, but some had no arms, -some had no legs, and some had no heads. The butler, however, was very -kind, and told us it was intended to represent a railway accident.’” - -On the other side of this feretory is Gardiner’s Chantry. He is -generally associated in our minds with fire and faggot, but when we -first read of him, he was a young man at Paris, chiefly remarkable for -his skill in mixing salads. How unfortunate that he did not confine -himself to this cooler occupation!--he would at least have received -the blessings of epicures. Why should we recall the ghastly past? -Gardiner’s violent Catholicism was partly from jealousy of Cranmer. Had -he been made archbishop, he might have been a reformer; for there was -a time when he was in Rome brow-beating the Pope, on behalf of Anne -Boleyn. - -[Sidenote: Death’s Effigy.] - -The only good act the rebels did in the Cathedral was done here; they -knocked the head off the wretched figure of Death, which had been -placed, I suppose, as a companion in misery for that in Fox’s Chantry -opposite. Perhaps the poet Young, had these scarecrows, which he knew -well, in his mind, when he wrote-- - - “Who can take - Death’s portrait true? The tyrant never sat.” - -The mob would, doubtless, have turned out Gardiner’s remains had not -some pious Catholics put a skull and bones above them, which were -mistaken for the bishop’s. They would have been glad to have put -him again to destructive work, not indeed, destroying heretics, but -breaking to pieces the saints in the stained-glass windows. In this -chantry there is still to be seen a portion of one of the round pillars -of the Norman apse. - -Returning through Fox’s Chantry, and proceeding eastward, we enter the -large retro-choir built in the beautiful Early English style by Bishop -de Lucy about seventy years after Walkelin’s time. It is erected on -piles, so we may be thankful it has stood so long. Immediately at the -back of the feretory, we see an arch leading to “the holy hole”--or, as -some of our companions called it, “the ’oly ’ole”--in which interments -formerly took place. An attempt was made to enter it in 1789, but -the masonry had fallen down and the enterprise was relinquished. The -Edwardian canopies over it are charming. The area in which we stand -is studded with tombs. There are two splendid chantries here--one of -Bishop Wayneflete, the founder of Magdalen College, Oxford; and the -other, of Cardinal Beaufort. Wayneflete is represented as grasping -his heart.[79] Both monuments have suffered. Wayneflete’s head was so -much damaged that a new one was lately given him. Beaufort’s figure -is supposed not to be original, and “a horse-load of pinnacles” -had by Milner’s time[80] fallen or been knocked off this canopy of -“bewildering” embellishment. - -An old gentleman of our company inquired whether Cardinal Beaufort -was a Roman Catholic, and I could see by his countenance that the -affirmative answer he received greatly altered his opinion of that -eminent man. - -[Sidenote: Altar Tombs.] - -The other monuments are “altar tombs,” comparatively insignificant, -being only two or three feet above the pavement. But to our eyes they -seemed a promising array, and proved disappointing. We had read that -among others Prior William of Basynge, Sir Arnald de Gaveston, Prior -Silkstede and Bishop Courtenay were lying here. On the first we came -to, that of Basynge, I deciphered the pleasant announcement that -whoever prays for him shall obtain a hundred and forty-five days’ -indulgence. - -“That seems,” observed Mr. Hertford, “as if he was not so anxious about -the souls of others as about his own.” - -The ledger-stone which bears this inscription is the only genuine part -of the tomb. - -Then we come to the line of four tombs extending from the Edwardian -Arcade to the Lady Chapel. First, there is the goodly figure of Bishop -Sumner, whose snow-white marble looks out of place among the dark tones -of distant centuries; he is not buried here. Next to this is a tomb of -some bishop of the fifteenth century, not that of Silkstede--a nearly -perfect skeleton in black serge and funeral boots was found in it. Then -we come to the only ancient knight who makes a figure in the Cathedral. -He is in armour, with his legs crossed, which denotes some rank. Surely -this is Sir Arnald de Gaveston, the Gascon knight who saved Edward I.’s -life. When he died the King sent cloth of gold for his funeral. - -But no, he was buried in the north transept. This is supposed to -represent William de Foix. - -“Whoever he is Time has pulled him by the nose a little,” said Mr. -Hertford; “but he always loves to deride the greatness of man.” - -“He would have had a better excuse,” I returned, “had he treated the -delightful ‘Piers’ in this unhandsome manner.”[81] - -“Why, not one of these tombs has the ring of truth about it,” said Mr. -Hertford, discontentedly. - -[Sidenote: Peter de la Roche.] - -“Well this last one next the Lady Chapel is genuine,” I replied. “It is -that of Bishop de Lucy, but was long asserted by an easy and patriotic -error to be that of Lucius, the British king. The occupant of the -tomb immediately to the north of Bishop Sumner is unknown, but to the -north-east lies Petrus de Rupibus. Few would understand without a -teacher that this meant Peter de la Roche, but in that age the manner -in which names were Latinized raises a suspicion that some jesters were -engaged in the work. Thus we find Montagu rendered ‘de Monte acuto;’ -and in this Cathedral we have the grave of ‘Johannes de Pontissara,’ -_i.e._, John Sawbridge.”[82] - -“Much more mellifluous,” observed Mr. Hertford. “But one might almost -say to them as Quince said to Bottom in the ass’s head, ‘Bless me! thou -art translated.’” - -“Peter de la Roche,” I continued, “was a native of Poictiers, and had -served in youth under Richard Cœur de Lion. He became Henry III.’s -guardian and tutor, and seemed at one time to have all the kingly power -at his command. As a bishop he supported the Papal authority against -the national party, which was represented by Hubert de Burgh. When -unsuccessful he ‘took the cross’--went to the Crusades. Afterwards he -returned, presented the monastery with one of the feet of St. Philip, -and was able to entertain Henry sumptuously at Wolvesey Castle. He -became the head of the Government, founded the Dominican Convent at -the Eastgate, and built (or suggested)[83] Netley Abbey, and the great -North ‘Solomon’s’ porch at Westminster. On the southern wall of this -area is a monument to Sir John Cloberry--representing him as a kind of -‘fat boy,’ with a long curly wig. He was an officer under Monk, and -contributed to bring about the Restoration. His house was in Parchment -Street.” - -Further on, at the extreme east, we come to Bishop Langton’s Chantry -(he died in 1500). This and the next chapel is beautifully enriched -with oak carving. Next to this we enter the Lady Chapel, by building -which Priors Hunton and Silkstede made this the longest cathedral in -England. - -[Sidenote: Mary and Philip.] - -A gleam of gold and jewellery comes to us here from 1554. We were -told that in this Lady Chapel Mary and Philip were married, but there -is no doubt that the ceremony was performed before the high altar, -which seemed the proper place. The chair in which Mary sat is here, -and has originated the claim of the chapel. It is small, with a low -back--a faldistorium--of a form not then uncommon, but was brave with -brass nails, gilding, and velvet. It has now a shabby and melancholy -appearance, like the performances of the sovereign who sat in it; the -horse-hair is coming out, and no wonder, for nearly every second lady -visitor poses in it as the queen of the moment. - -But let us look at something better. The light of love is in the eyes -of the gloomy bride, and is even slightly reflected from the dark, -underhung visage of the king. All the nobility are gathered from the -whole of England. The Queen in cloth of gold, with the sword borne -before her, sweeps up with a long retinue from the west entrance, and -takes her place on the “Mount,” beneath the rood loft. On her left is -Philip, also in cloth of gold, having beside him a large number of -nobles of Spain. Golden hangings glow in the choir, and at the altar -stand six bishops with their crosiers. But with all this brilliancy -none could fail to see the dark cloud of popular discontent lowering in -the sky, and alas! the golden apparel concealed a sad and a false heart. - -In this Lady Chapel, which has such high pretensions, the remains of -some old frescoes (Silkstede’s) long covered with paint and plaster, -are still visible. There are twenty-four separate designs, all in -honour of the Virgin. In one place a young man puts a gold ring on the -Virgin’s finger to keep it till he sees his lady-love. When he returns -for it he finds it will not come off. He does not attribute this to -the trickery of the monks, but to the intervention of the Virgin, and -forthwith jilts his sweetheart and takes the cowl. In another design -a painter accustomed to represent the devil “as ugly as he knew him -to be,” is executing on a high wall, a figure of Our Lady, with the -devil under her feet. His artistic work is stopped by a dragon-like -fiend pulling down his scaffolding, when lo! the Virgin he has just -painted holds out her hand to him and supports him till assistance -arrives. Here also we have John Damascen, a celebrated writer of the -eighth century, condemned by Saracen Caliph to lose his right hand. The -peccant member is cut off, and hung up in the market-place, but on its -being taken down and applied to the wrist with prayers to the Virgin, -it is reunited. - -“What absurd stories,” said Miss Hertford. “I wonder how even a child -could have believed them.” - -“I did not credit them,” I replied, “but now that I see framed on the -wall that wonderful restoration of these indistinct outlines, I may -think that the miraculous power of the Virgin is still present in her -chapel.” - -[Sidenote: Rebuses.] - -Those who deem that a person guilty of a pun should suffer imprisonment -will not look with much appreciation on the humour attempted on the -vaulting of this and the last-named chapels. All that can be said in -its behalf is that it has the flavour of a bygone age. These rebuses -seem to us puerile. There might be a temptation to represent Silkstede -by a skein and a horse; and as Winchester was often called Winton, and -famous for its wine, there might be something juicy in symbolizing it -by a vine issuing from a tun. But here we have a musical note termed -“long,” coming out of a tun for Langton, and some can see a hen making -a similar egress for Hunton. The dragon issuing from a tun refers to -Proverbs xxiii. 31, 32: “Look not upon the wine when it is red, when it -giveth his colour in the cup.... At last it biteth like a serpent and -stingeth like an adder.” - -We might be surprised that, when Fox put up the panelling here, he -did not insert his own name in a similarly humorous manner. Reynard -was a known ecclesiastical emblem, but not a complimentary one--in a -church carving we find him preaching to a flock of geese. Our austere -bishop would have been shocked at such a representative; he chose the -self-sacrificing pelican.[84] - -“Playing with words was much in fashion even at a later epoch,” said -Mr. Hertford. “Not a few of our great families have punning mottoes as -‘Ver non semper viret’ for Vernon, ‘Cavendo tutus’ for Cavendish, and -so on.” - -“I do not dislike the little conceits here,” I replied; “it shows that -the ascetic monks had something fresh and green left in them. Perhaps -that fine Chantrey monument is not so much out of place here as some -suppose. Bishop North was a good Christian and a good cricketer. It -is said that sometimes while he was in the field hitting away, his -chaplain was in the tent bowling hard questions at the candidates for -ordination.” - -Our guide now took us into the next or northernmost chapel, dedicated -to the “Guardian Angels.” - -“There is nothing of much interest here?” I observed, looking around. - -“No, sir,” he replied, “except the window.” - -“There is nothing remarkable in that?” - -“No; except that it was put up by a remarkable man,” he returned, -warmly; “the best dean we could possibly have--generous to rich and -poor; and yet,” he added, with a twinkle, “he left a good bit, £50,000.” - -The dean of whom the verger spoke so enthusiastically lived to be -ninety-six. His son became a dean, lived to be seventy, and died before -his father. Expectant heirs, take note. - -[Sidenote: Ethelmar.] - -Passing westward to the north presbytery aisle we find an old-fashioned -dumpy ship carved over the grave of Harthacnut.[85] Hard by lies the -heart of Ethelmar, the half-brother of Henry III. When the bishop, -after landing at Dover, came to Winchester, the King, who was much at -this city, went out to meet him with a grand procession. Ethelmar seems -to have been an avaricious young man;[86] he was scarcely elected when -he had a conflict with the Archbishop of Canterbury, and also with the -monks of St. Swithun. He deposed the prior here because he refused -to give an account of some property, and the lawsuit between him and -the monks was so serious that they mortgaged the church of Winchester -for 7,000 marks--about £5,000. Afterwards Ethelmar paid off a part of -this, and the monks gave him the Isle of Portland and other property as -compensation. When the Barons held a parliament here in 1258, Ethelmar -was obliged to fly from the country. He died in Paris when only -thirty-four, and sent over his heart, which perhaps the monks did not -much appreciate. But it proved a “golden heart” to them in producing -miracles. When the steps of the altar were being lowered it was found -beneath them in a golden cup by a workman, who kept the cup and placed -the heart in this north aisle. - -We now dive down into the crypt, and find it of grand dimensions, -propped with pillars such as we have just seen a specimen of in -Gardiner’s Chantry. There is still a controversy as to whether this is -Saxon or Norman work. It seems strange that Walkelin should have made -no use of the extensive excavations and foundations of the previous -building, but history asserts that the old high altar remained after -the new Cathedral was finished, and the best authority considers that -this edifice was entirely new. The well in the crypt is thought to -have existed previously, as it is not symmetrically placed with regard -to the pillars. There is still water in it, I was told. Until lately -the floor was much obstructed by earth--sixteen loads have been lately -removed. When James Ellis paid his visit about the middle of the last -century, he found “at the end of the crypt a chapel, but the extent -of it I could not examine, as it was locked up and used as a wine -vault.”[87] - -[Sidenote: Frescoes.] - -In the Chapel of the Holy Sepulchre, just under the organ, there are -some fine frescoes of the thirteenth century in fair preservation, and -in the north transept, especially in the north-east corner, there are -traces of colour and patterns, and a large but somewhat faint fresco -apparently representing some monarch. On the ancient rood screen there -were carved and painted figures, and the spires of the stalls were gilt -until the last century. - -As we passed down the Cathedral the sun was setting, and the effect of -the rays falling through the vast west window was magnificent. - -Near the entrance on the north side there is a remarkable door of -grille work, thought to be of the eleventh or twelfth century, perhaps -the oldest specimen in England. It was formerly near the choir, and the -object was, it is said, to keep unsavoury and diseased pilgrims at a -safe distance. - -“Perhaps some of them were like the pilgrims in the East at the present -day,” said Mr. Hertford; “it was not always easy to determine ‘where -the dirt ended and the saint began.’” - - -FOOTNOTES: - - [62] He says that the monastery at this time extended all round the - church; but it is difficult to understand his description, except - that the palace and chief offices were on the south. - - [63] Rudborne is supposed to have put Dagon for Woden, but he had - mentioned the latter just before. - - [64] “Gloucester Fragment,” published by the Rev. S. Earle. - - [65] Edred gave a great gold cross and figures to the monastery. - - [66] Cnut patronized poets, and made verses himself, which at that - time showed religious tendencies. Emma, “The Rose of Normandy,” was - celebrated for her beauty; she was called by the English Ælfgifu. It - is remarkable that at the time when she was married at Winchester to - her first husband, Ethelred, the massacre of the Danes was plotted - here. - - [67] “Chronicle of a Monk of Winchester.” - - [68] Athelstan had given the head of St. Just. - - [69] After reading such accounts we can understand the Recorder of - Winchester being suspended in 1657, because among other offences he - did not reprove a man for saying that “if all writings and pens were - at liberty it would make the Protector as black as the blackest devil - in hell.” - - [70] The cost of whipcord for these operations figures in the City - Rolls. The sufferers were stripped to the waist, and the irons for - the women were fixed lower than for the men, to avoid injury to the - breasts; after 1790 the old theatre was used partly as a store, - partly as a lock-up or watch-house. In the reign of Henry VIII. the - pillory and cage were in the “Square.” - - [71] There is now here a balcony whence the bishops bestowed their - blessings on festivals. - - [72] The cross and two figures of Mary and St. John in silver and - gold, given by Stigand, then stood over the rood screen, which was - just at the top of the stairs. The space between it and the present - screen was occupied by chapels, and afterwards by vestries, removed - in Charles I.’s time. - - [73] This Cathedral, measuring 556 feet from the western entrance to - the end of the Lady Chapel, is the longest in England or on this side - of the Alps. It is inferior in area only to two English cathedrals, - York and Lincoln. - - [74] Two figures of the Perpendicular period remain in the west - window. A little of the glass in Fox’s east gable window is of later - date. - - [75] Colonel Nathaniel Fiennes stood with a drawn sword to preserve - Wykeham’s Chantry when Cromwell took Winchester. - - [76] Rufus was extravagant in dress, and resented a present of boots - which only cost 3s. - - [77] He was a Fellow of the College and a Canon of Winchester. Ken - was brother-in-law of Walton. - - [78] That is, approximately, for when long before, De Blois moved - many of these from the crypt, he found no inscriptions and went by - hearsay. - - [79] A physical representation of the exhortation, “Lift up your - hearts!” He ordered five thousand Masses to be said for himself and - his friends. - - [80] At the end of the last century. - - [81] Piers Gaveston, favourite of Edward II., is by some thought to - have been a son of Sir Arnald. But it has been said that he was of - low origin, and even an Italian. Courtenay’s coffin was found lately - in the well of the crypt, and is now in the choir. - - [82] A bishop in the fourteenth century who founded, to the south of - Wolvesey Castle and east of the College, the College of St. Elizabeth - of Hungary. Slight traces remain. - - [83] Also “God’s House” at Portsmouth, the priory of Selborne, and - Titchfield Abbey. - - [84] He chose this which is carved in his Chantry and elsewhere on - account of his great veneration for the holy Sacrament. Hence also he - gave the name of Corpus Christi to his college at Oxford, which keeps - up this chantry. - - [85] Cnut’s remains are said to have been found in the Cathedral in - 1766. - - [86] He lived in princely style. We read of his parks and cargoes - of wine. He fined the Southampton citizens 100s. for selling goods - during St. Giles’ fair. - - [87] Add. MSS. 6768. In this crypt are some askew arches, the art of - forming which is said to be lost. Another peculiarity is that the - east end descends as in Glasgow Cathedral. - - - - -SIXTH DAY. - -The Grenadier--Cathedral Library and Museum--The Deanery--Pilgrim’s - Hall--Precincts--Cheyney Court--Regulations of the Monastery--North - side of the Cathedral--Early decay of the City--St. Peter’s - Street--Middle Brooks--Old Houses. - - -This day was to be devoted to visiting the Cathedral library and -precincts, and to taking a stroll about the streets of the city. - -We again entered the lime-tree avenue and looked across the burial -ground. A great improvement had been carried out within the last three -years. When I was last here it was crowded with tombstones bending over -to each other in various stages of decay, now it presents a pleasant -sward as smooth as a bowling-green. There is a headstone close to -the path recording the gallantry of twenty-three persons who died in -an attempt to save the property of their master from destruction by -fire. Near the south-west angle of the ground there is a better-known -memorial to a less heroic man, who owes his immortality to the -drollery of his epitaph. It runs as follows:-- - - “IN MEMORY OF - THOMAS THETCHER, - A GRENADIER IN THE NORTH REGT. - OF THE HANTS MILITIA, WHO DIED OF A - VIOLENT FEVER CONTRACTED BY DRINKING - SMALL BEER WHEN HOT, THE 12TH OF MAY, - 1764. AGED 26 YEARS. - - “In grateful remembrance of whose universal - goodwill towards his Comrades, this Stone - is placed here at their expense, as a Small - testimony of their regard and concern. - - “‘Here sleeps in peace a Hampshire Grenadier - Who caught his death by drinking cold small Beer; - Soldiers be wise from his untimely fall - And when ye’re hot drink Strong, or none at all.’ - - “This Memorial being Decay’d was restored - by the Officers of the Garrison, A.D. 1781-- - - “‘An honest Soldier never is forgot - Whether he die by Musket or by Pot.’” - -There seems to have been a great desire among soldiers to commemorate -this hero, or the moral of his death, for the stone was replaced again -in 1802. - -As we left this spot I recalled the memory of the Saxon, St. Brinstan, -who was fond of walking here. He was an excellent man, but of a -somewhat melancholy turn of mind. Every day he washed the feet of the -poor, and every night he would pace up and down among the tombs saying -the _Placebo_ and _Dirige_; and we are told that on one occasion when -he finished by saying with emphasis “Requiescat in pace,” a chorus as -from a multitude of voices came from the sepulchres pronouncing a loud -“Amen.” - -“A pious invention,” said Mr. Hertford, “unless, indeed, some of the -monks were playing him a trick.” - -[Sidenote: Roman Pavements.] - -“Close to this,” I observed, “was found the Roman pavement in the -Museum, about ten feet underground. Another pavement, part of which can -be seen in front of the Deanery, was discovered (1880) in one of the -western gardens of Dome Alley. The distance between them was small, but -the difference of depth (four feet) would seem to indicate two periods -of construction. We seldom realize that the Romans were here three or -four hundred years.” - -In the wall bounding the graveyard on the south we noticed an archway. -This led down some steps still remaining into a vaulted crypt (dating -from 1400), where dozens of skeletons have been found. The Dean -discovered last autumn some Perpendicular groining, and massive -buttresses which have probably supported a chapel where masses were -“sayable.” - -We now made for the “Slype” Gate, at the south-west corner of the -Cathedral, beside which there is a fanciful inscription:-- - - ILL PREC - AC ATOR - H VI - AMBULA. - -It appears that the public were accustomed to make the Cathedral a -thoroughfare, and therefore it was thought desirable (about 1630) to -open this slype passage and to put up this notice. But as those who -tramped through the sacred edifice on business were unlettered porters -and labourers, this enigmatical Latin caution could have been of little -use. We, however, obeyed the direction, and as we passed, found some -more dislocated verses on the opposite wall giving a similar injunction -in a rhyme between the words _choro_ and _foro_. - -“Look at the valerian and harebells on the Cathedral wall,” said Miss -Hertford. “How prettily they mark out the architectural lines in blue -and red.” - -After reaching the south entrance we made for the adjacent transept, -and found at the end of it an old fourteenth-century door and a -flight of oaken stairs leading to the Library. As I was mounting -up I remembered how on my last visit I was conducted by a tall, -handsome man, the principal verger and, I think, also librarian. He -was remarkably courteous and well informed. On inquiring for him now -I heard that he was no more! He had light curly hair, and I should -have thought him a young man had he not told me that he had been -sworn in as a special constable with Louis Napoleon at the time of -the Chartist alarms. Lately I saw an extract from _The Echo_, in -which the writer remarked that the vergers he had met performed their -duties in a perfunctory way, “mere gabblers,” except one at Winchester -Cathedral. My thoughts immediately turned to this man, but I must say -that the other vergers here seem fully to appreciate the beauties and -antiquities of the place. - -[Sidenote: Cathedral Library.] - -This “library” was built after Bishop Morley’s death as a receptacle -for his bequeathed books. It might be called a treasury or museum. Here -are two Anglo-Saxon Charters (854, 957). They begin in Latin, but the -writer seems to have become tired, and to have lapsed into his native -Anglo-Saxon towards the end. One is attested by Alfred when a boy. -How interesting they would have been if they contained autographs, -but it was the custom then for the scribe to insert the names with -crosses against them, as we should now for illiterate persons. There -is a poetical complexion about these documents much in keeping with -Anglo-Saxon taste. The first one, after stating that “Christ reigns -for ever,” says that “It is plain to all mortals that all things that -are seen have an end, and those not seen are eternal. Therefore I -Adulf through the clemency of the High Throned King of....”[88] The -other commences: “Now by vicissitudes doth the fragility of human life -wither, and the circling roll of ages come to nought.” The Saxons had -imagination, they mingled poetry with piety; thus we read here, “In the -name of Him who in the book of everlasting life in heaven has written -down those with whom in life He is well pleased. I Athulf,” &c. - -[Sidenote: Rare Manuscripts.] - -As we look at these old parchments we think we can see again the hands -of the long-buried monks, can enter again their spacious monastery, of -which we have read such glowing descriptions. There was a scriptorium, -or writing establishment, founded in it by St. Swithun, and rare work -was executed here--witness that splendid specimen of illumination in -gold and colours, called the “Benedictional of St. Athelwold,” made for -that bishop.[89] Coming to a later time we have here preserved the Book -of Zacharias of the twelfth century. But the greatest treat for the -eyes of the bibliophilist is the large folio Vulgate of that date. It -took the monks of St. Swithun’s eighty years to complete it; the work -progressed as slowly as the building of a cathedral. The writing is -beautiful, the illuminating as brilliant as if freshly done--the gold -and deep blue we especially admired. Quaint were the designs and ideas -of that age. Here is Elijah as he goes up to heaven, drawn by two red -horses, throwing off not only his mantle, but the rest of his clothes, -perhaps the monk thought they would be superfluous, whilst Elisha below -is catching a blue tunic he has cast down.[90] This work has been -bound by Dean Garnier in three volumes. It fell at some period into -the hands of the Philistines, who cut out several of the beautiful -illustrations. - -There is an amusing story in connection with this fine manuscript. -Henry II. showed with regard to it a spirit in advance of his age. He -solicited and terrified the monks of St. Swithun’s into giving it up to -him, and then made it a handsome present to his favourite monastery at -Witham. - -“Like the man who was so much moved with a charity sermon that he put -his neighbour’s purse on the plate,” suggested Mr. Hertford. - -“But one of the Winchester brethren,” I added, “hearing of the -splendours of Witham, went to pay the abbey a visit, and there saw -their own Vulgate. Explanations followed, and the monks of Witham -returned the book.” - -[Sidenote: Relics.] - -The curiosities are not limited to books.[91] Here are four rings--one -with a large square sapphire, found in the disputed tomb of Rufus or -De Blois. Another with an oval sapphire belonged to Fox; and a third -was Gardiner’s, engraved with a helmeted head, not unsuitable to -such a belligerent bishop. Here is the rusty ring, about three inches -wide, which the Dean lately found when excavating on the site of St. -Swithun’s tomb--it may be that of the smith’s dream. In a case at the -other end of the room are other treasures. Here are coins and a silver -penny of Cnut, found on the north-west of the Cathedral. Would it could -speak and tell us the strange language it has heard, and the scenes -it has witnessed as it passed about among churls, thanes, and monks! -Here is a case of relics found in “Rufus’s” tomb, containing some of -the seven braids of Norman pattern which were found in it. One is well -preserved. How exquisitely delicate! It is not a quarter of an inch in -width. They embroidered finely then, and we hear that the young swells -of the period were almost effeminate in their attire. Silken robes with -gold borders descending to the feet must have looked quite “Celestial.” - -We emerged from the Cathedral by the south door. The green sward -before us did not exist before Henry VIII.’s time, as the space was -filled by a “garth” surrounded with cloisters. The inferiority of -the ornamentation of the Cathedral on this side when compared with -the other is due to the junction with these buildings. Bishop Horne -destroyed them, because he wished to be in keeping with the times. -Cromwell demolished nine prebendal houses and the deanery. - -We now passed through the tunnel at the extremity of the south -transept, and proceeding beyond the eastern end of the Cathedral saw -a wall in front of us bounding the precincts, and in it a small arch -now filled up. Through this we fancy we can see the piquant figure of -Nell Gwynne passing, for it is said to have been made to enable her to -have access to the Deanery, where Charles was wont to stay. When Ken -was a prebendary here he stoutly refused to give up his house to her, -and it is one of many instances of Charles’ good humour that when the -bishopric of Bath and Wells fell vacant, he appointed “the good little -man who refused his lodging to poor Nell.” There was a small building -(long removed) put up for her to the south of the Deanery, called Nell -Gwynne’s Tower, but she had a house through the arch above mentioned. -Until lately its broad staircases were the admiration of the people in -Colebrook Street, but it has disappeared within the last few years, and -its site is occupied by an establishment of chimney sweeps! Thus:-- - - “Golden lads and lasses must - Like chimney-sweepers come to dust.” - -Returning to the cloisters’ site we observe on the east some ruinous -remains of the chapter-house. It was twenty-five or thirty feet wide -by twice that in length, an ancient form which existed before the more -beautiful circular chapter-houses were adopted. - -[Illustration: The Deanery] - -On the south of this stands the Deanery, entered by three remarkably -acute arches of Henry III.’s time. Under these the Dean has placed, for -the benefit of the public, some of the Roman tesselated pavement found -in 1880 in Dome Alley. The wayfarer can also see in the red-brick wing -on the east the handsome Perpendicular window which once stood at the -end of the prior’s hall. The Deanery has been almost entirely built -inside this hall. It may surprise some to hear that this magnificent -building, dating from 1460, still exists in a perfect state. Of the -rooms constructed in it the largest is the drawing-room, thirty -feet long and fourteen high, with old mullioned and trefoil-headed -windows. The height of the hall was about forty feet, and the length -nearly seventy. In the bedrooms the carved roof timbers and corbels, -with heads cut on them, are in wonderful preservation. The wing -of red brick, of which I have spoken, was built for Charles II.’s -accommodation; and in his time the Deanery staircase seems to have been -constructed, where there was formerly a courtyard in the house. The -prior’s hall could be easily restored, and if the work were effected in -the time of the present dean, it would form a suitable memorial of the -taste and learning of that eminent antiquary. - -Evelyn records an edifying conversation which took place in this house -when he was here shortly after the death of Charles II. James was then -here:-- - -“His Majesty was talking with the bishop concerning miracles and the -Saludadors in Spain, who would creep into heated ovens without hurt. -His Majesty said he doubted about miracles. The bishop added a miracle -wrought in Winchester to his certain knowledge--a poor miserably sick -and decrepit child (long kept unbaptized) recovered immediately after -baptism--as also the salutary effect of King Charles’ blood in healing -one that was blind. They then spoke of second sight. The King spoke of -relics which had effected cures, especially a piece of our Saviour’s -Cross, which had healed a gentleman’s rotten nose by only touching. -The bishop blessed the King for insisting on having the negroes in the -plantations christened.” - -The Deanery faces the Close, which formerly had the pleasant name of -“Mirabel,” and we crossed it to the Pilgrims’ Hall. - -[Sidenote: Ornaments.] - -The northern part of this building is now the dean’s stable--the form -of it can therefore be well seen. The commencement of the massive beams -supporting the roof is visible in the lower part of the stable, while -in the loft the arches themselves remain adorned with heads. These -carvings are much injured by time--one of the faces seems to represent -a nun or priest, and another with a curly beard, perhaps a king. This -woodwork dates from 1280, and we hope its fine effect was appreciated -by the travellers who occupied and had fires lit in it. The other half -of the building is in the adjoining house (Canon Durst’s) where the -beams are still visible, but without carving. The latter residence was -built by Warden Nicholas about two hundred years ago, and has over the -staircase some fine festoons of large flowers in stucco. - -Crossing over to the western side of the precincts we find No. 10 to -be an old thirteenth-century building, said to have been part of the -convent refectory.[92] Beneath it there is still a kitchen, a grand -hall with three round pillars and a groined roof. The massive oak -dresser-board remains resting on two carved stone supports. Though -worked almost into holes, its hardness has preserved it to be a -curious relic. When Richard Cœur de Lion returned from his foreign -imprisonment, the grand coronation dinner was here prepared for him.[93] - -“There must have been then great commotion in this hall, and -considerable execution,” said Mr. Hertford, “if the culinary work in -those days approached that of the ‘kokery’ in the days of Richard II., -with all its ornamental devices.” - -“Let us dream on,” I replied; “but good authorities consider that -this ground-floor was only made a kitchen in the seventeenth century; -and that these buildings of the monastery did not form part of the -Refectory, though close to its site.” - -By the kindness of Miss Heberden we were allowed to inspect this -interesting house, and having viewed the kitchen, ascended by a fine -old oak staircase to a spacious room, now used as a bedroom, lined -with that small square panelling which dates from the seventeenth -century. Here are long, low, many-mullioned windows, with stained -glass, representing the arms of Fox, Wykeham, and others. Over the -mantel-piece is an elaborate piece of oak carving. In the south gable -end there is a beautiful rose window, traces of a larger one, and of -the original entrance--the present door being in an old window. On the -east are Early English windows. - -[Sidenote: Dome Alley.] - -Close to this house there is a road running westward. This is Dome -Alley. On either side of it stand red brick houses, some two hundred -years old, half concealed in luxuriant ivy. We observed grapes and -other ornamental designs on the leaden pipes; on the right hand side -the “Rose and Crown,” and on the left the “Cross Keys.” It appears that -emblematic ornaments representing the Church and King went alternately -along the fronts of the houses. - -“I suppose the ‘Rose and Crown’ represented the English monarchy?” said -Miss Hertford. - -“The rose,” I replied, “was an ancient emblem of England; some have -supposed the name Albion came not from the chalk cliffs, but from the -white rose which flowers freely over the country.” - -Adjoining the Close gateway we observed a large building with gables -of “timber-crossed antiquity,” and found that beneath them was an -apartment where the bishop’s “Cheyney” Court was held. Here are a -curious old beam in the ceiling, and the royal arms, which were over -the judge. This was the Court for the Soke, the prison of which we had -already seen. Old men remember the last case tried here--a corn dispute -from West Meon. The judge sat on the side near the porter’s lodge. The -overhanging gables may be earlier than Elizabeth; the rooms beneath -them have been used for Cathedral purposes. - -From this point we made a little excursion, passing under Kingsgate, -with its chapel and ancient doors, into Kingsgate Street to look at -the red-brick gables of Mr. Toye’s house--dating from about 1600. -About seven years ago some excavations were made through St. Swithun’s -Street, the Kingsgate, and Kingsgate Street, which brought to light the -stratum of a road at a depth of five feet. This must have belonged to -some epoch of considerable civilization, perhaps even to that of Alfred -and the saint who gave the name. The floor of the porter’s lodge at the -Close Gate is three steps below the present surface. - -[Sidenote: Monks’ Fare.] - -Hence we retraced our steps through the precincts; and here, as we -stand on the ground for centuries trodden by religious men whose “good -deeds have been interred with their bones,” let me call attention to -the little that remains concerning them, if it be merely their domestic -arrangements. Dean Kitchin has with great perseverance and success -deciphered a roll of regulations for the monastery in the fourteenth -century, which had been rendered indistinct by the thumbing of many -monks, and by a libation of their beer. Here we find directions as to -dietary. The prior was to provide beer, bread, salt, wine, butter, and -cheese. Nearly every day there was to be a large maynard of cheese (32 -lbs.), and the anniversary of the deposition of the body of St. Swithun -was to be honoured with an additional cheese, so that the monks of Hyde -as well of St. Swithun might celebrate the day; and on the Translation -of the saint’s body sufficient cheese was to be provided for those -monks and other religious and lay people. The cheese was to be really -good, if not it was to be returned. Psalm singing was regarded as -thirsty work. The precentor and his men were to have a puncard (cask) -of ale every Saturday, and another to cheer them whenever they sang -the melancholy “Placebo,” or funeral service. They were to have a -pitcher of wine as well as a puncard of good ale whenever they did -the great O. At first we might suppose that this was synonymous with -“doing the heavy,” but the dean tells us that, on the contrary, it -generally meant doing nothing at all. But here it signified singing -before the great festivals certain short prayers, beginning with “O,” -the first of which was “O Sapientia.” On the Deposition of the body -of St. Æthelwold, the keeper of the refectory was to carry round at -dinner time the “Cup of St. Æthelwold,” first to the brethren in the -refectory, then into the infirmary to the sick, and then to the table -of the bled (a considerable number), and finally to the prior and such -honoured guests as were with him. It is said that they were all to kiss -the goblet; but we should have thought that the old conventuals would -scarcely have expressed such sentiments as-- - - “Drink to me only with thine eyes, - And I will pledge with mine, - Or leave a kiss within the cup, - And I’ll not ask for wine.” - -Moreover a pitcher of wine was to accompany the cup which apparently -was exhausted before the end of the ceremony. The refectorarius was to -have a second pitcher for himself, and we might suppose he wrote this -order, for he spells the word in a very hickupy manner, “pichicherum.” - -Wykeham found the monastery in a disorderly state. Some of the monks -were guilty of grave irregularities. He gave them strict statutes. -Wearing ornaments was forbidden, and also hunting. - -“Hunting!” exclaimed Mr. Hertford. “How I should like to have seen them -flying along in their gowns. Think of the jumps!” - -“Wykeham did not like the sight,” I replied; “it was, I suppose, not -an uncommon one, for we find in Henry III.’s reign complaints that the -dogs of the Abbot of Hyde and Abbess of St. Mary’s were committing -depredations in the King’s forests.” - -[Sidenote: Swithun’s Tomb.] - -Hence we made for the north side of the Cathedral, where we passed -through the iron gate to walk on the grass. Close to the Cathedral on -the north-west near a water drain, I observed that the ground had been -recently moved, and the sod was broken, revealing a piece of wall. This -was, in fact, the site where St. Swithun had by his own desire been -humbly buried, “so that the sun might not shine upon him.” Since the -translation of his body the earth here had not been moved until two -years ago, when in digging, several coffins of chalk and stone were -found with bones, and also the mysterious ring already mentioned. - -Proceeding towards the east we noticed the doorway into the north -transept by which the pilgrims entered to have their squint through the -grille gate. Beyond the north transept another cut in the grass showed -a wall of great solidity--probably part of the foundations of the “New -Minster,” whose monks moved to Hyde. This wall, lately discovered, -was traced northwards to a point where a stone has been placed in the -grass, and two other stones show the building was square. The old Saxon -church might have been here--some fragments stood above ground in the -beginning of the last century. - -We here saw close to us a pointed arch standing alone. It formerly led -to some of the prior’s premises. To the north of it I saw a line of -small, dilapidated houses, bearing the pretentious name of “Paternoster -Row,” which, I fear, does not always awaken religious feelings in the -hearts of authors. Some of these dwellings were very old, and boasted -a little external ornamentation. In the doorway of one of them sat an -aged woman sunning herself. Her features were finely chiselled, and she -had a profusion of white glossy hair. She must have been handsome when -young, and was still - - “Bearing through winter - The joys of the spring.” - -I asked her if she could tell us the age of her house. - -“No, I cannot, sir,” she replied, “but it must be very old from the -way it is built. There are five doors to this room. Pray walk in.” - -We complied, and found a very neat little apartment with tables covered -with ornaments, and a brave show of glass. There was a beam across the -ceiling, which I could touch with my hand. - -“You can see at the back how old the houses are. Some of the cottages -in the corner have lately been taken down,” she added. - -[Sidenote: Bourne.] - -We passed with her out of the back door, and saw some very dilapidated -tiled gables. What surprised me most was to find that a clear stream of -water, about a yard wide, flowed under these houses. This, then, was -the “fishful” rivulet of Æthelwold, the Lourtebourne, which he brought -from Headbourne Worthy (by a lower channel, I think, than that by the -Nuns’ Walk), to cleanse and refresh the monastery.[94] It was covered -here with tombstones. I crossed by one, taken of course from the -neighbouring graveyard, which commemorated some of the Henley family -who lived in the seventeenth century. Stones of this kind, as well as -monoliths, are utilized here, for stone is scarce about Winchester. The -flight of stairs up to Morestead Church, which stands above the road -two or three miles from this is formed of tombstones. - -“I hope that they have been steps to heaven in every sense,” said Mr. -Hertford. - -We left the little dwelling very favourably impressed with the old -lady, and were surprised and sorry when we heard that she was obliged -to be in receipt of parish relief.[95] - -Passing by Bishop Morley’s almshouses for matrons we regained the High -Street, and we now proposed to make a circuit to look at the streets on -the other side. - -[Sidenote: Decay.] - -Winchester declined greatly in Henry III.’s time, and Edward I. removed -the royal residence to London, and although at Wykeham’s solicitation -Edward III. made it one of the chief wool marts in England, he added -another disappointment when he removed the “staple” to Calais. From a -dismal complaint presented to Henry VI. by the inhabitants, it would -appear that the greater part of the town was then almost a heap of -ruins. It states that the “Desolation of the saide powere Citee is -so grete and yerelye fallyng for there is such decaye that withowte -graciose comforte of the kynge oure Soweraigne Lord the Maire and -the Bailiffs must of necessitee cesse to delyver uppe the citee and -the keyes into the Kynges Handes.” Seventeen parish churches and 997 -houses were void, and within eighty years Jewry Street had fallen from -eighty houses to two, Fleshmonger Street from 140 to two, Colebroke -Street from 160 to sixteen, Calpe Street from 100 to six, Gold Street -(Southgate Street) from 140 to eight, Gar Street from 100 to none. -In its palmy days, soon after the Conquest, the city extended to St. -Cross, Wyke, Worthy, and Magdalen Hill, and in Henry I.’s reign the -population was about 20,000, but so greatly did it decrease that all -the progress of this century has only just brought it back to that -number. It is said that there were once 173 churches and chapels here, -probably an over-statement. - -In Edward III.’s time there were 44, among them All Saints in -Vineis,[96] St. Nicholas extra Pisces, St. Martin’s in Fosseto, and St. -Peter’s in Macellis. Now there are eight; Bishop Fox disestablished -many because there were no funds to sustain the clergy. - -[Illustration: The Penthouse.] - -Proceeding up the High Street, we crossed into St. Peter’s Street by -“God Begot” House. This was a fashionable quarter in the Stuart days. -The Royal Hotel stands on a site where was a nunnery twenty years -since. We come to the office of the Probate Court, a new looking -building, which has old walls. At the south side of it we see a leaden -pipe with E.G. 1684, on it--supposed to stand for Eleanor Gwynne. An -old staircase remains at the top of this house. The original building -was much larger, the centre has been taken down, but the other wing -remains. We may gain some idea of how handsome it once was by looking -at the next ivy-mantled mansion--a structure of about the same date, -with a fine staircase. - -We now come to the Roman Catholic Chapel, and examine the arched -entrance--the only relic remaining of Magdalen Hospital, founded 1174. -In the porch I called attention to the “Druidical” stone. - -“But some say that the monoliths in this Itchen valley have more -connection with drifts than with Druids,” observed Mr. Hertford. - -“Yes, and take away the poor things’ character,” I replied. “Why should -we try to dive into the mud and gravel that lie beneath our fancies?” - -Close by, standing back in a garden, is the “White House,” which is -also of Stuart date, and has a handsome staircase and panelled room. -All these houses were probably occupied by Charles II.’s courtiers. -Milner says that the Duchess of Portsmouth had a house at the south end -of this street. - -[Sidenote: Middle Brooks.] - -[Illustration: Middle Brook.] - -From the end of Peter’s Street we turned down the City Road, and -passing by “Upper Brooks,” where there are more monoliths, soon -entered, on the right hand, Middle Brooks--so called from the stream -flowing along it, which in the memory of old people ran down its -centre. Here we came to a remarkable edifice, built of flints, and -of a somewhat “gingerbread” character--a miniature castle with two -towers. It forms a couple of houses, and the tenant of the nearer -one told us that the building was called the Hermitage. It is nearly -one hundred years old, and formed out of the materials of Swathling -House,[97] which belonged to Mr. Erle, and stood between Winchester -and Southampton. The front room, which we were invited to enter, is -lined with panelling--covered with paint, I regret to say, for it is -of walnut wood--and in some places adorned with gold and colours. -Round the ceiling there is a “tongue and udder” moulding, and there is -also carving round the door. The young tenant pointed out to us an old -engraving on canvas, “The Bloody Sentence of Christ,” which, he said, -had been two hundred years in his family. There was a note beneath it -to say it had been taken from a stone in Vienna. - -Proceeding on towards the High Street we came to a row of houses with -overhanging stories and huge dark beams. It had a central archway and -heavy oaken door, and seems to have originally formed one large house. -Antiquaries owe a great debt of gratitude to the owner, Mr. Buckingham, -for preserving this relic of the past when pressure was put upon him -to demolish it. There is much “wattle and dab” work in the walls, and -in an upper front room of the northernmost house there is herringbone -work and a fine chalk mantelpiece with mouldings and entablature. Chalk -becomes hard from exposure, and will last almost for ever if protected -from the weather. Cut stone can be seen here in the back wall, and -also in a house beyond the yard fence, whence it has been conjectured -that this was a monastery or important structure--could it have been -connected with the Franciscan monastery, usually placed in Lower -Brooks? A cannon ball, found two feet below the floor of one of the -back rooms, is in Mr. Buckingham’s possession. It probably came from -the Castle or Cromwell’s battery. - -[Sidenote: Coins.] - -Before these houses were repaired, two years since, some of the -panelling inside them was beautifully carved, and there still remains -ornamental tracery on the outside of some of the windows, but much has -been removed. What was more remarkable was the discovery of numerous -coins about the panelling, as if some of them had accidently slipped -behind it. Among them were a Roman coin and a Spanish, some leaden -coins and medals, and a token of the Corporation of Southampton made of -brass, with three roses on the obverse. - -On our way back we met an aged man with a light blue coat and an oblong -silver badge, with something like a shamrock upon it. The wearer of -this gay apparel belonged to “Christ’s Hospital” (1607), near the -Cathedral. The brethren’s house looked as bright as their coats, with -scarlet virginian and blue clematis. - - * * * * * - -As the next day was Sunday, which is no day for excursions, and we had -pretty well explored the principal part of Winchester, my friends now -took their departure. They said that they had enjoyed their visit. -With me the time had passed rapidly. I tried to make a favourable -impression, and am vain enough to think I succeeded, especially on one -occasion while Mr. Hertford was deeply studying the guide-book. - -On Sunday morning I felt lonely. I sauntered down the High Street. -There were many young fellows standing about who had evidently come in -from the country. Some looked very gay, wearing sunflowers in their -buttonholes, and talking to their sweethearts. This sight made me feel -still more forlorn. - -I went to the invisible Church--I mean St. Lawrence’s--which cannot -be seen from the outside. The sermon pleased me. I remember that the -preacher said: “Some men put on their religion on Sundays with their -best coat, and when the day is done take off their religion and their -coat, and hang them up until next Sunday.” - - -FOOTNOTES: - - [88] The boundaries of Wansborough are given here with much - quaintness and particularity. “From the Stone to the Eden, from - the Eden to the Lent, from the Lent to the great Thorn.... From - the hollow thorn to the hoar stone, from the hoar stone to the - hollow pan.... From the crooked link to the cat-holes, from the old - treestead to the crooked apple-tree.” - - [89] In the possession of the Duke of Devonshire. - - [90] The Carmelites would not have been pleased with this - representation, as they think the first of their white gowns was - thrown down by Elijah, and the black stripes they wear are to show - where it was singed by the wheels of fire. - - [91] Tradition said, as late as 1650, that the Domesday Book was kept - in a vault or in a chapel called Domus Dei, in the Cathedral. If so - it was only there just after its compilation. The earlier Domesday - book, or Dombroc, of Alfred, was kept here or at Wolvesey. - - [92] The refectory, which was forty feet long, stood on the - south-west of the cloisters. The “vocal” crucifix was at the east end - of it. In 1798 there were, according to Milner, four round-headed - windows in the north wall. - - [93] There could have been no lack of money on this occasion, for the - King found £900,000 in gold and silver besides jewels in the treasury - at Winchester. - - [94] It passed through the dormitory, cloisters, buttery, malthouse, - kitchen, and quadrangle. - - [95] In the street just by the back of this house two shells were - found, probably some of Waller’s “granadoes.” - - [96] Winchester was celebrated for its imported and native wine. - - [97] In which the celebrated Admiral Lord Hawke died. - - - - -SEVENTH DAY. - -Southgate Street--St. Cross--Dr. Lewis--Regulations--St. Catherine’s - Hill. - - -This day I proceeded in the direction of the Hospital of St. Cross, -which is one mile from Winchester. On my way down Southgate Street I -passed, on my right, the profusely decorated and almost flamboyant -modern Church of St. Thomas. It contains some of the sepulchral slabs -of the older church to that saint, which stood beside the graveyard -on the east side of the road. That building had some architectural -beauties, but had long lapsed into a state of dilapidation. In Henry -III.’s time the Sheriff of Southampton was ordered to have an image -of the “Majesty of the Lord” made and placed beyond the altar in that -church. - -A few yards beyond this I passed the site of the old Southgate, and -then came to the “Friary”--the site upon which the Augustine hermits -established themselves in the thirteenth century. This order is best -known to London men, from Austin Friars in the City. - -Next I came to “St. Michael’s,” the rectory of the parish. Just behind -it stands the church, but it has been rebuilt, and presents nothing of -interest except a round thirteenth-century sun-dial not eight inches -wide. In former times a spring rose just above the church, and in the -winter flooded it on its way down. The rector keeps the doors of the -church always open, and, like many others, has suffered for his good -nature. A short time since the poor-box was broken open and robbed, and -the only melancholy consolation was, that there was not much in it. - -[Sidenote: St. Cross.] - -A line of bright villas extends here on the right side, and I soon -reached the graveyard of St. Faith’s, another deceased church. Even -in the time of Henry III. it was in a weakly state, for we find beech -trees given to prop its foundations. The only relic of it remaining, is -the Norman font and bell, which are preserved at St. Cross. - -[Illustration: The Church of Saint Cross from the Water Meadows.] - -Here I am now at my destination. I pass through the village of -Sparkford,[98] and stand before the ancient structure founded by Bishop -de Blois for the (much needed) health of his soul and for the repose -of the kings of England. He endowed it from his private revenues, as -well as from gifts of rectories and from the spoils of Hyde Abbey, -which consisted of 500 pounds weight of silver, 30 marks of gold, -and three crowns of gold, with thorns of gold set with diamonds. The -revenue was originally £250 a year, but had risen to £300 in Wykeham’s -time. - -The management of the hospital was originally delegated to the -brethren of the Hospital of St. John of Jerusalem, saving to the -Bishop of Winchester canonical jurisdiction, but Henry II. gave the -administration entirely into the hands of the bishops. - -On the tower over the archway are four heads--those of Henry IV., -“time-honoured” Lancaster, Beaufort, and Catherine Swinford. Catherine -here finds herself in good company. She was, as most know, a pretty -governess, whom John of Gaunt’s wife had the temerity to engage, with -the result that her husband had several natural children, among them -Cardinal Beaufort. Over these heads are three canopied niches for -statues--the idea being evidently taken from those on the tower of the -College. In the centre was the Virgin, and by her side the Cardinal; -but we observe that though he is on his knees he is too grand to take -off his hat to her. When the figure of the Virgin fell, some years -since, it was not replaced. - -How well I remember the day when I first stood before this gateway as -a tired wayfarer, and demanded the pilgrim’s right. I was promptly -provided with half a pint of fair small beer and half a slice of bread. -I observed that the drinking-horn was set in silver, and, in answer to -a question, was informed-- - -“Two of the cups have been set in silver to commemorate the fact that -the Prince of Wales and Crown Prince of Germany drank out of them. The -other cups are not set; we keep these for the upper classes.” - -I had not then heard of the fate of the “Hampshire Grenadier,” and -much cheered by the refreshment and the fragrance of royalty, marched -into the courtyard, and admired the long row of chimneys--twenty feet -high--made thus when they first succeeded holes in the roof. I wished I -could see the thatch that the chapel had for two hundred years. Seeing -an old gownsman standing about I accosted him, and asked if he would be -so good as to show me over the hospital. - -“Hospital!” he replied, sharply. “There ain’t no hospital here. That’s -where everybody makes a mistake. When any of the brethren are ill we -have to send to Winchester for a doctor.” - -[Illustration: Beaufort Tower, Saint Cross.] - -“Well--the institution” I substituted. - -He seemed satisfied with the correction. I found that there were -several persons waiting to be conducted, and that our guide was a -“character.” He was deaf, his speech was indistinct from the loss of -teeth, and he in every respect came up to the requisite qualification -of being decayed. - -The original foundation was for the board and lodging of thirteen -men, poor and infirm, and for receiving daily at dinner a hundred -men[99]--the most indigent that could be found--who were to be allowed -to carry away the remains of their food and beer. - -“Walk this way,” said our guide, hobbling on in front of us. “Oh! I -won’t go too fast for you.” - -He led us into the church, where we gazed up at rows of Norman zig-zag -until we felt quite giddy. Some think the painting here a little -overdone, but it gives some idea of how the severity of the Norman -style was softened by colours. A few traces of the old designs are -still visible in some places on the walls, and in À Becket’s Chapel -there are remains of a series depicting the scenes in his life. There -is also a large fresco, even more faded, representing the Descent from -the Cross. - -“We have heard,” said an inquiring lady, who seemed to take a great -interest in everything, “that there is a beautiful triple arch here. -Can we see it?” - -“No, ma’am, you cannot,” replied our scrupulous guide; “but you will -be able to do so when we come to it. This is Major Lowth’s seat,” he -added, pointing to one comfortably cushioned. - -“Who is he?” inquired the lady. “Where do you say he sits?” - -“Nowhere, ma’am. He does not sit anywhere now. He is gone to heaven, -ma’am--at least, I hope so. He was one of the trustees.” - -We found the triple arch outside at the back of the church. It was very -pretty--one arch bisecting another. - -The fourteenth-century stained glass in the windows particularly -attracted my attention. In one, St. Swithun appears in a purple -robe; in another, De Blois figures in red and green. In the South -Chapel there is some wood carving of the Italian school, and very -fine; and some other that is certainly of the British school, and not -admirable--names cut on the desks, one of which dated 1575, shows that -chanting and mischievous habits survived the Reformation. - -Our attention was also drawn to the stone with the half-obliterated -“Have Mynde” on it, and to the window whence the sick witnessed the -elevation of the Host. - -[Sidenote: Handsome Donation.] - -We observed on some of the tiles on the floor of the church the -enigmatical letters, “Z. O.” On inquiry, we found this apparently -cabalistic sign, was in memory of the munificence of an anonymous -benefactor, who thus signed his letters. About twenty-five years ago a -gentleman came to visit the hospital, and seeing some men at work in -the church, observed to them that it was a most interesting building. - -“Yes, sir,” replied one of them; “but it is sadly out of repair.” - -Shortly afterwards a letter arrived from the Isle of Wight, telling -the Master to go to a certain bank in Winchester, and he would receive -£500 from Z. O. And soon £250 came in the same way. Many were the -surmises as to who was the mysterious donor; some thought from certain -indications that he was one of the royal family. - -“We want a few more of that sort,” observed our guide, significantly. - -The church, which is partly paved with fifteenth-century tiles, -contains many sepulchral memorials. There is a fine brass to the -left of the altar to Campeden, one of the masters and a friend of -Wykeham’s. The tomb of Petrus de Sancta Maria, who died in 1295, was -opened some time since, and the features were found perfect; but as has -happened in other cases, crumbled into dust in sight of those present. -Wood says there was an old cross here, dated 1450, to John Newles, -“squyer and servant more than xxx yere unto Harry Beauford, bishop and -cardinal, whose soulys God convey to his Mother dere unto the bliss of -Heaven.” - -In front of the altar there is a large slab to William Lewis. He was -elected from Hart Hall at Oxford to the Society of Oriel, in 1608, -and made provost by the favour of Welshmen. There are conflicting -statements about his character. Cromwell’s party say that his amours -were so extraordinary that he was obliged to fly from the country to -escape the officers of justice; but the Royalists maintain that he was -an excellent man, learned in theology, who went abroad to serve the -King. Anthony Wood, in his “Fasti Oxonienses,” says that “he was made -a D.D. by command of the King.” He went as Buckingham’s chaplain--with -a sinecure office, I should think--to the siege of Rochelle, of which -he wrote an account. He was Master of St. Cross; but on the defeat -of Charles was succeeded by Lisle the regicide, who sat in the Long -Parliament for Winchester. - -Lisle’s widow was beheaded in the Market Place in Winchester, for -harbouring fugitives from Sedgemoor.[100] After his promotion to the -Upper House, another regicide, Cooke, became Master, and after his -execution, Lewis returned and ended his life here in peace. - -[Sidenote: Hall of St. Cross.] - -Our guide now directed us to the hall--built in 1440--and here called -attention to the Minstrels’ Gallery, the fine original roof, the -mysterious triptych painting, and the central hearth whence in olden -times the smoke ascended through a hole in the roof. This aperture was -long preserved, and on “gaudy days”--of which there are five in the -year--a charcoal fire is still lit there for “Auld Lang Syne.” On those -days there is a grand roast of half an ox, minus the leg, and each man -has five pounds of meat, a mince-pie, and plum pudding. - -“And who sits in that chair?” asked the inquiring lady, indicating the -principal one at the table. - -“Nobody, ma’am,” he replied, “at present. But on gaudy days the Master -sits in it.” - -“Is he one of the brethren?” - -“God bless your soul, no, ma’am,” he returned; “he’s a minister of the -gospel.” - -We were shown Cardinal Beaufort’s rude wooden salt-cellars and -candlesticks, and in the kitchen his battered round pewter dish, which -gave us no great idea of his splendour; but probably he was doing the -humble when he stayed here. - -Thence we went over to the eastern side of the quadrangle, where there -is a cloister supporting some decayed apartments--perhaps erected by De -Blois. Here is a table of Purbeck marble, said to have been used in the -Castle, and which as it is not round enough for King Arthur, is usually -attributed to King Stephen. - -“Would you like to see the nunnery?” inquired our guide. - -We were not aware that there was one, but found that it consisted of -some upper rooms for three nurses. On asking what there was to see in -it, and being told, “Well! there is a floor,” none of us felt very -enthusiastic about it. And so I left this interesting spot--not to -return for fifteen years. Farewell, most conscientious of guides! I am -afraid, alas! that thou art “not sitting anywhere now.” I hope thou too -art in heaven. - -On this, my next visit, our conductor was a man of the modern school, -intelligent and energetic, but not so humorous. I went the same round, -and heard little more--except that an American gentleman, who had -been two months in England studying stained glass, had heard of the -ancient windows here just as he was going on board the steamer to -return, had retraced his steps, and said when he saw them that he was -well repaid for his journey. Our guide also spoke of the silver cross -the brethren wear. It seems when any one of them dies it is put on a -red velvet cushion, which is laid on his breast in the coffin, and then -before burial it is taken off and the Master fastens it to the gown -of the next brother. Instances have been known where, by mistake, the -cross has been left on the corpse, and there was a brother who was now -wearing one which had been exhumed. - -[Sidenote: The Brew.] - -Only when we came to look at the black jacks and talk of the beer -was our informant slightly at fault. The founder, thinking that his -bedesmen would be thirsty souls, ordered each to have daily with -his meat and salad mortrell (bread and milk) a gallon and a half of -good small beer. Considering this and the free drinks given at the -lodge--now reduced to two gallons a day--we may suppose that brewing -was a principal industry in the hospital. No beer is now made here or -supplied to the men. Our guide told us that about seven years ago the -brethren’s wives lived in the village, and that a question was asked, -which they preferred--their beer or their wives. To some this might -have been puzzling; but the gallant Knights of St. Cross answered -without hesitation in favour of their better halves. This raised them -greatly in my estimation; but it appears that, in truth, their wives, -or in default of them, housekeepers, have been allowed to live here -as far back as most people can remember, and the allowance of beer -was stopped, because some of the men took too much of it, and others -preferred stronger stuff, being of the monkish opinion that-- - - “Drinkere stalum - Non fecit malum”-- - -and exchanged it in the village. So they were glad to take money -instead. - -The greater part of the building here is due to Cardinal Beaufort--the -gateway, hall, master’s house, and all the lodgings on the west side. -He called the hospital the “Almshouse of Noble Poverty,” and provided -an endowment by which some brethren who had “seen better days” should -be added to the thirteen of the De Blois foundation. A distinction -between the two classes is kept up, the Beaufort men wearing red gowns, -but there are very few of them. I heard that a clergyman was here a -few years since, but resigned his place. Provision was made for the -maintenance of eleven servants and fourteen horses. The present revenue -is about £6,000 a year.[101] - -[Sidenote: St. Catherine’s Hill.] - -On leaving the hospital, instead of returning as I came, I went to the -right through a gate and over a stream; and, following a northerly -path across the fields by the engine house, crossed the Itchen to St. -Catherine’s Hill, which I saw rising close to me. There was formerly -a chapel on it, the tower of which was blown down in 1268, but the -building was there in Henry VIII.’s time. - -[Illustration: St. Catharine’s Hill from St. Cross.] - -A splendid view opened as I climbed the height. On the summit I -inspected the mismaze. It is fancifully said to have been cut by -the boy who wrote “Dulce Domum.” But when we consider the Cerne -Giant and the White Horse we shall consider it due to the vicinity -of the monastery, and made by the monks for amusement or penance. It -is not a labyrinth properly so-called, because if you enter at one -end you cannot fail to reach the other. I saw some children, who had -been playing “touch wood” in the neighbouring clump of pines, walking -through it, and they said it could be done in four minutes. - -Here I stand within a magic circle--a line of circumvallation which -transports me to a past when there was a wild population here that -threw up intrenchments to protect themselves and their cattle from -attack. The large circuit of this embankment shows that the habitations -around the neighbourhood were not sparse; for we may be sure that -when they had to throw up the earth with their hands, they would not -make it larger than necessary, and when they lived much on game they -did not require great space for cattle. These remains are especially -interesting in connection with the many “Druidical” monoliths found -about this part of the country. - -[Sidenote: Origin of Winchester.] - -We may say that this was the original site of Winchester. When the -people became powerful and more constantly centralized, they settled on -the lower ground, as at Bristol and Salisbury. Some twenty miles to the -south-east there is a fortified height known as “Old Winchester hill,” -and so-called from a tradition that the town at first stood upon its -summit. - -While descending on the turf among the harebells (hairbells?) I found -a specimen of the blue gentian. What a study is every flower--how -beautifully is it finished inside and outside! I thought of the “lilies -of the field.” Solomon and his array! How would he have looked with his -robes reversed? - -I made my way to the river, and walked along it in a path fringed with -golden ragwort, then passed through the millyard, crossed the river, -and continued along its margin till I reached the cottage gardens, and -emerged close to the bridge at the end of High Street. - - -FOOTNOTES: - - [98] Best known to many for the scene in “Henry Dunbar.” - - [99] The “Hundred Mennes Hall” is now used as a barn. - - [100] She is said to have been “a respectable lady.” The jury - hesitated, but Jeffreys insisted. James was swift upon rebels. He - wanted his brother Charles to hang Milton. - - [101] On the walls are the names of several masters. R. Buteshall was - master in 1346. Roger Sherborne and Henry Compton both became bishops. - - - - -EIGHTH AND FOLLOWING DAYS. - -Ancient Britons--St. John’s Church--Magdalen - Hospital--Punchbowl--Chilcombe--St. Peter’s - Cheesehill--Twyford--Monoliths--Brambridge - Avenue--Otterbourne--Compton--“Oliver’s Battery”--Hursley--Tomb of - Keble--Merdon Castle--Farley Mount--The Hampage Oak--Tichborne. - - -Chilcombe!--in the Domesday Book Ciltecumbe--what a deliciously Celtic -name! It reminds us of the time when “Gwent” also was only a group of -beehive huts. We can see such in Cornwall at the present day. - -“Gwent” (whence Venta Belgarum[102] and Winchester) signified an -opening. A river beneath a grassy hill was a cheering sight to the -early inhabitant of Britain. The chalk downs here afforded a clear -expanse by which he could reach the interior of the country without -any fear of losing his way among trees or being attacked by wild -beasts. The forests then abounded with large stags, wolves, bears, and -wild oxen. - -[Sidenote: The Itchen.] - -No doubt the choice of the site was partly determined by the -convenience of the Itchen. On its breast we see successively the canoes -and coracles of the Britons, the galleys of the Romans, and the royal -ships of the Saxons and Danes, with their many oars, pictured sails, -and formidable figure-heads. In the time of the Normans it became more -crowded, and without it the Cathedral could not have been built, as the -stone came from quarries in the Isle of Wight. Even Wykeham obtained -materials from this source, and the river must have presented a busy -scene in the palmy days of the fair, when merchandise was arriving from -distant shores. The river was afterwards disused, obstructed apparently -by the construction of mills, for when the city was in a dilapidated -condition in Henry VIII.’s time, the Mayor and Corporation suggested -that the mills should be “pulled up, so that barges might come to the -city as formerly.” In recent times a canal has been made, called “the -navigable Itchen,” a name which, as we look at its silent and deserted -course, seems to have a sound of mockery. - -Chilcombe is a large parish, and reaches nearly into Winchester. -Cynegils in the seventh century gave it to the monastery. But on the -high ground above Chilcombe Lodge, the present parsonage, was lately -found a curiosity which carries back our retrospect far beyond all such -modern history. In sinking a well an aërolite was discovered imbedded -forty feet in the chalk! Can we imagine the time when this bolt fell -hissing into the sea, and lodged upon some of the shellfish, whose -remains formed these white rocks? The “everlasting” hills did not then -exist, and the most important inhabitants of the earth were huge and -hideous lizards. Does the thought occur to us that in the cycles of -ages the time may return - - “When all the bloomy flush of life is fled”?-- - -if it does let us banish it. - -Crossing Soke Bridge and passing Water Lane I came, on the same side, -to St. John’s Street. Close to this, on the slope of St. Giles’ hill -was the original school where Alfred was instructed. We find, in -the Close Rolls, King John ordered William of Cornhill, to make one -“Jeffery” attend school at Winchester, and provide him with necessaries -for the purpose. - -[Sidenote: St. John’s.] - -[Illustration: St John’s from a Cottage Garden] - -Proceeding along the street I came to the Church of St. John. It -has no chancel, and is nearly square--would have been perfectly so, -only for the road which passes it. This was the old Roman road from -Canterbury, and this was the first church pilgrims came to in the -suburbs of Winchester, hence we find a Decorated niche outside the -east wall in which stood a figure of the Virgin for their benefit. -Inside the church are many little niches, a very pretty triple one has -just been discovered near the altar. There are also two “squints.” The -tower, which may be partly Saxon, is a mass of chalk six feet thick. -There were at one time some frescoes on the north wall, in which the -devil was a principal character, but for more than twenty years they -have been decently plastered up, and there is nothing now to offend the -eyes of the worshipper unless it be the large crucifix over the rood -screen. A new stained east window has lately been inserted in memory of -a curate who died here at the early age of twenty-five. He took great -interest in the church, and bravely continued his work until within -four months of his death. The centre of the window contains what I was -told was a good likeness of him.[103] - -Near the end of the street I came to an ancient wooden cottage with -heavy beams, which had formerly been the “Blue Ball.” Opposite -stands “St. John’s Croft,” a large red-brick edifice, adorned with -wood-carving on its porch, and with some cut stone bosses from Magdalen -Hospital. A few yards behind this there is a row of four brick-and-tile -cottages--the last remains of that celebrated foundation. - -[Sidenote: Morn Hill.] - -Passing in front of St. John’s Croft I came to a pathway on a bank -beside the high road, and soon, as I proceeded up the hill, a fine view -opened on the left over the valley and the rich fields through which -the Itchen meanders--and then the country on the right became visible, -and I reached a breezy down spangled with harebells and eyebright. Here -I came to Victoria Hospital; and on the right hand, about a hundred -yards this side of the farmhouse beyond it, stood the Magdalen (“Morn”) -Leper Hospital. I am able to speak with certainty, for a lady told me -that an old gentleman, who died twenty years ago, pointed out the spot -to her and showed her some tiles that had fallen from the roof. A well -was lately found in the field opposite. I am sorry to say that this -establishment was badly treated in 1643 by the Royalist soldiers, who -burned the gates and consumed the provisions. - -A picture of the four pointed arches and lofty windows which stood -here at the end of the last century can be seen in the Winchester -Museum. It is interesting now that every vestige of this hospital -has disappeared--except the archway in the Roman Catholic Chapel in -St. Peter’s Street--to read in the Harleian Manuscripts (328) of the -ornaments it once possessed--the silver pix and cups, the vestments and -books, the green carpet powdered with birds and roses, the Spanish -cloth, given by William of Basing, and the standards to be carried on -Rogation days. This hospital was founded in 1174 by Bishop Toclyve, -whose signature to a document is a great curiosity in the British -Museum. The ruins were removed at the beginning of this century, as -they had become an harbour for mendicants not belonging to religious -orders. - -The distance is about a mile and a half from the Butter Cross, and this -seems to have been thought anciently, as it is now, a safe position for -the location of infectious and contagious diseases. - -Returning, and passing the Victoria Hospital a few hundred yards, I -struck right across the downs and saw on my left five mounds, which -brought other sad memories of disease, for here the bodies of those -who died of the plague were thrown into pits. It was on these downs -that King John hypocritically fell down on his knees before the Pope’s -prelates. Here they, weeping, raised him up, and all proceeded to the -Cathedral singing the Fiftieth Psalm.[104] - -[Sidenote: Longwood.] - -Looking southwards I saw under me the Petersfield road, to which I -descended, and walked on it right away for more than a mile to visit -the Punchbowl, a circular hollow in the downs, almost capacious enough -for that thirsty Dutchman who drank the Zuyder Zee. From thence, if -I had desired, I might have marched on for three or four miles to -the beautiful woods of Longwood. I well remember having once walked -through them on a summer evening, when the sunshine was casting a -chequered glow through the oaks and beeches--such scenes are not easily -forgotten. Lord Northesk still retains the old family mansion, though a -handsome new residence has been built beside it. - -[Sidenote: Chilcombe.] - -On this occasion I was not so enterprising, so returning nearly to -where I took the road, I turned to the left towards Chilcombe, which -I saw lying in a nook among the hills shaded with large trees. This -hamlet is still nearly as small as it was in the time of the ancient -Britons. After reaching and passing by the half-dozen cottages which -compose it, the road decreased to a lane, and became steep as I -approached the church. This was truly the “church in the wilderness.” -There was no house near it at which I could obtain the key, so I had to -turn back to the village. On my way I met some little children playing, -one of whom, a girl of about twelve, regarded me through her dark eyes -with undisguised curiosity. - -“Can you tell me who has the key of the church?” I inquired. - -“The clerk has it,” she replied; “but he’s dead.” - -[Illustration: Chilcombe Church.] - -This answer well-nigh threw me into despair; but I determined to -inquire at some neighbouring cottages. At one where I applied, the fair -occupant also gave me a vague reply, saying that, “If it’s anywhere, -Mrs. Solomons has it.” I observed that this little dwelling was in a -very decrepit state. The ceiling, which a tall man might reach, was -innocent of plaster, and made a sad exhibition of “ribs and trucks.” - -“This seems to be an old house,” I said. - -“Oh yes, sir, very,” she responded. “It has been for a long time -falling down through the chimney,” she added, pointing to the wide -hearth. - -Following her advice, I went to the former parsonage, close at hand, -which I reached under a snow-white mass of fragrant clematis. There I -obtained what I required and returned to the church. - -[Illustration: A CHILCOMBE TOMBSTONE.] - -This tiny sanctuary has a wooden bellcot for a tower, and the smallest -east window I ever saw, inserted within the original Norman opening. -There are three Norman arches here, some fifteenth-century tiles, and -an old flat monumental slab, from which all but a large cross has been -worn off by the feet of generations. And this is all that remains of -the nine churches which once adorned Chilcombe! - -The lane leading to the church gradually dwindles to a footpath and -crosses the downs to Morestead--a pleasant walk. I met some boys coming -along it, carrying wallets full of nuts, with which the wayside abounds. - -On my return I diverged to the right along a green bridle path, and -thus made a circuit of the hamlet. - -Before reaching Winchester (two miles) I passed a large tree standing -up quite dead, a piteous skeleton, shining and bleaching in the sun. -It had been struck with lightning, I was told. I never before saw -such a sight; but in Australia, where the settlers pay the natives to -ring-bark the trees, you may see forests of them raising up their bare -arms to heaven, as if appealing against the treatment they had received. - -[Illustration: Saint Peter Cheesehill from above the Station.] - -Passing Chilcombe Lodge, with its cypresses, I came to an old inn -called “The Brewers Arms,” and was told that a hostel formerly called -“The Drum” had stood on this site for four hundred years. Close to -it is the church of St. Peter’s Cheesehill. The people call it -“Chisel”; it is named from gravel like the Chesil Beach near Weymouth. -The church is square like St. John’s. It contains some handsome chalk -niches, with heads carved under them, and there is a curious grating -high up in the west wall for those in the adjoining house to hear the -service. - -[Sidenote: Twyford.] - -A pleasant walk leads from the bridge along the bank of the river -to Twyford--three miles distant--but I started in that direction -through Southgate Street, which is part of the Southampton Road. After -passing St. Cross and proceeding on for about a half-mile, I came to -a bifurcation and a signpost, and took the lower road to the left, -walking by grassy banks golden with fleabane. I crossed the Itchen, -and soon a branch of that river--fringed with a line of wild foliage, -purple willow-herb and hemp agrimony. Then I reached Twyford Lodge, the -residence of Colonel Bates, and farther on took the right-hand turning -to the church. It is modern except the window, but stands on a ring -of prehistoric monoliths, preserving the old sanctity of the place. -The graveyard is adorned with some magnificent coniferæ, specimens -of the Wellingtonia, deodara, picea pinsapo, cypress, and cedar; but -the pride of the whole is an immense yew-tree which rises in the -centre in ancient majesty. It is of great girth, and withal as sound -as a bell, and it is cut into the form of one--or, I might say, of -Robinson Crusoe’s umbrella. Go beneath it and gaze up into its maze of -branches--a wondrous sight! - -On leaving this shrubbery I turned round to the left, and, had I -desired, I could have walked through “silken grass,” across a couple -of fields, to the railway station, passing by the woods round Shawford -Park (Sir Charles Frederick’s), and over the river, which is here -divided into three parts.[105] But I sat down to rest upon a seat -placed by some fairy godmother at the first bridge, and looked down -into the Itchen, where the long green foliage was waving like the hair -of water nymphs. Does not Tennyson speak of our life swaying “like -those long mosses in the stream”? I seemed to be looking down into a -clear agate and the liquid murmur was only broken at intervals by the -jumping of a trout. - -Before me lay two elephantine blocks of stone, brought by some of our -unknown predecessors. I amused myself with conjuring up pictures of the -past, and thinking that here-- - - “Sage beneath the spreading oak, - Sat the Druid hoary chief.” - -and while I fancied I could still hear his low chanting, my mind -wandered off to reflect that this neighbourhood is sacred to a real -modern “druid.” There was a celebrated school at Twyford and among its -pupils was Pope. His satiric talent brought, as usual, disgrace, for he -was sent away for writing a squib on the master, who had become a Roman -Catholic. - -Returning to the church, I regained the high road, and immediately on -my right saw a large red-brick house, which had an air of old-fashioned -importance. I was anxious to find Shipley House, where Franklin, as a -guest of Bishop Shipley, wrote his life. I could find no one to inquire -from, but soon a labouring man came along, and I asked him if this was -Shipley House. - -“No, sir,” he replied, “this is Twyford House. Shipley House is nearly -a mile further on.” - -I was surprised to hear this. - -“Is it an old house?” I said. - -“Oh yes, sir--it was built in 1860.” - -This then was not the object of my search, and I found that the mansion -I was looking at was the old Shipley House. - -[Illustration: Twyford. Queen of Hampshire Villages.] - -Passing by a school on the left, and entering the street of the little -town, I saw in the centre of it a blacksmith’s shop with another -megalith in front of it. Dean Kitchin has given the great stones, -with which this place abounds, their full weight, and considers that -Twyford may be so called from Tuesco, the deity we commemorate on -Tuesday. Further on I came to a brewery, evidently not for small beer, -for it had a triumphal arch with a profusion of embellishments which -must irritate the feelings of good teetotalers. There are besides -these new structures some timber-crossed cottages in the village, with -old-fashioned hollyhocks, blue campanulas, and masses of phlox. Before -leaving, I may observe, that this “Queen of Hampshire villages” ought -to be in high favour with the fair sex as many of them have become -Young by residing in it. - -Proceeding straight on into the country, I came to the Manor farm -with several old arches in front of it, suggestive of a monastery. A -little beyond this is the lodge of the present Shipley House, with two -tall cypresses (Lawsonianæ) in front of it. Then, coming to another -finger-post, I took the beautiful road to Brambridge,[106] overhung on -both sides with trees. And now a long wall of gravel and mortar skirts -my right along Brambridge Park.[107] The avenue here is said to be the -finest in Hampshire. It consists of four rows of lime-trees. The double -line on each side is a study for an artist, the outer branches drooping -down and resting on the ground, while the inner, being close together, -have been drawn up, so that they rise on either side like the columns -of a cathedral. The house belonged to the Fitzherbert family, and it -is locally supposed that George IV. was privately married in the old -chapel attached to it. - -Turning round the park on the right, I again crossed the river, -or rather canal, saw a pretty cascade caused by the old lock, and -soon reached the little old church of Otterbourne--forsaken and -neglected--standing in the midst of a yard full of mouldering -gravestones. Many a large and handsome monument--thought much of in -its day--is here entirely concealed in ivy; as completely obscured -and lost to view as those to whose memory it was erected. Proceeding -to the north, I entered the village of Otterbourne, with its neat new -brick cottages and large green common. In its centre some children -were playing round a large horse-chestnut tree, whose leaves had been -touched by the rosy fingers of autumn. At the right-hand corner is an -old house of comfortable dimensions, covered with a variety of climbing -plants. This is the quiet village home of Miss Yonge, the authoress of -the “Heir of Redclyffe.” - -[Sidenote: Compton.] - -From this point I regained the Southampton Road, and in about a mile -turned up to the left to visit Compton, which consists of a few -picturesque tiled cottages. The tiny church stood in a bed of luxuriant -grass. The fine old oak porch was taken down by some Vandals fifty -years ago, and the present unsightly one substituted. Lately some of -the parishioners wanted the rector to have a new door, a request he -happily withstood, saying he was proud of the existing one, which is -of great age and of massive oak. On the lock can be seen the marks of -the axe with which it was rudely shaped. The entrance arch is Norman, -adorned with half-a-dozen lines of zigzag carving. There is, as at -St. Bartholomew’s, a kind of reflected arch behind it. This church is -an anomaly, inasmuch as it has no foundation; it merely stands on the -chalk, of which the dressings of the window are also made. Towards -the altar there is on the wall a fresco representing a bishop with a -crozier standing beside the gable of a church, perhaps intended for the -Cathedral. A stone coffin, containing the skeleton of a giant measuring -six feet to his shoulders, was found here in front of the altar. - -This church stands only a few hundred yards from the Southampton Road, -by which I returned (2 miles) to Winchester. - -Now for a round of fourteen miles. Passing through the Westgate, I -turned to the left by the barracks and crossed the railway cutting, -proceeding on the road which leads toward the magnificent Norman -church of Romsey, which is twelve miles distant. On the left I soon -came to the Catholic Cemetery, with its high wall, built in 1829. It -contains many tombstones whose inscriptions are worn away by age; one -preserved by lying flat under the turf is to a member of the Tichborne -family, dated 1637. Farther on, upon the right, behind a beautiful belt -of trees and some bright flowers stands concealed the grim arch of the -County Gaol. Nearly opposite is the Infirmary. Farther on, I passed a -large school and waterworks; these buildings are handsome, and of red -brick. - -[Sidenote: Oliver’s Battery.] - -I continued on up the long ascent known as “Sleeper’s Hill.” The -country people tell you that here seven men fell asleep in a field when -the Cathedral was commenced, awoke when it was finished, and, after -going to inspect it, came back to their cold bed and crumbled into -dust. In about a mile I saw a clump of dark fir-trees on the left, -standing on a spot called “Oliver’s Battery.” (Any one wishing to visit -it should take the first turning to the downs, for you cannot cross the -fields farther on.) - -This entrenchment was really constructed by Hopton, though named after -Cromwell. On this ground, the highest near Winchester, we stand in -the centre of a grand panoramic scene. Below lies the city--its red -houses, green trees, and grey Cathedral. It looked more formidable -when this camp was made; the castle stood at its head, and the long -wall extended down, crowned at intervals with round towers. There were -no suburbs then, and it seemed among the surrounding pastures like “a -quaint old mosaic in a ring of emeralds.” After leaving the “Noll” and -rejoining the road, I continued towards Hursley, and observed on the -right a monumental structure just peeping over the hill. On inquiring I -found that this was not a memorial to a hero, but to a horse! As I go -down hill with fine plantations skirting the road, I observe that I am -in the country of yew-trees, which here replace the “hedgerow elms,” -generally characteristic of England. Sweet marjoram and masses of wild -foliage rise on either side, and above it gleam in rich profusion the -scarlet clusters of the “dogwood.” On the left is a hill prettily -dotted with small yews and junipers. - -[Illustration: Hursley.] - -The church of Hursley is large and handsome, and the graveyard -beautifully adorned. Inside, at the west end, we found a brass, not -much larger than an octavo page, recording the name of John Wolkland, -who was keeper of the neighbouring Castle of Merdon in the fifteenth -century. Close to it rose a large stone slab, commemorative of many -members of the Cromwell family. Richard Cromwell, the Protector’s son, -married one of the Major family here, and became possessed of the -manor. At his death the place was purchased from the daughters by Sir -W. Heathcote, who took down the old mansion, saying, I am told, that -“the roof which harboured a Cromwell was not fit to shelter an honest -man.” These reminiscences of fame and decay are somewhat melancholy. A -brass corresponding to that of Wolkland has a sweeter sound. It bears -the following inscription:-- - - =“If ever chaste or honneste godly lyfe - Myghte merit prayse of eber lastyng fame, - forget not then that worthy Sternhold’s wife - Our hobbies make[108] Ane Horswell cald by name - frome whome alas, to sone for hers here lefte - hath God her soule and deth her lyfe byreft. - Anno 1559.”= - -Sternhold lived in the neighbouring village of Slackstead. He was Groom -of the Robes to Henry VIII. - -[Sidenote: Keble.] - -Passing through the southern door into the graveyard, we find in the -grass two flat stones side by side with crosses on them and the name -of Keble with that of his wife. He was vicar of this parish. Although -we see here the cold and polished granite under which he lies, we feel -that there is no man more truly alive among us. He lives in our hearts -and memories--on our tables, and in our churches. A friend of mine--a -clergyman who passed early to his rest--was accustomed to play and sing -every night with his family that inspiring hymn, “Sun of my soul.” This -large and handsome church is Keble’s monument, for it was built out of -the proceeds of “The Christian Year.” - -From this I return back a short distance to “Standon Gate,” where a -turnpike stood, to visit Merdon Castle. I pass up a steep hill between -nut-trees to the keeper’s Swiss châlet. Entering the enclosure, I find -vast grassy mounds standing about on all sides, covering the ruins of -the walls and towers. In one place over the deep fosse a huge tower -of flint masonry remains, the upper part of which is concealed in -ivy. This castle was built by De Blois in 1138, and fell to decay in -the fourteenth century. A tragic scene took place on this spot at an -earlier date. At “Meretune” King Cynewulf was murdered by Cynehard in -784. The former had deposed the brother of the latter, who was soon -afterwards murdered, and Cynehard determined to be revenged. He lay in -wait for some time among these woods until his victim should come here -with few attendants to visit his mistress. Then he surrounded the house -and killed him. - -[Sidenote: Farley Mount.] - -[Illustration: Farley Mount. - -UNDERNEATH LIES BURIED A HORSE THE PROPERTY OF PAULET Sᵀ. JOHN, ESQᴿᴱ. -THAT IN THE MONTH OF SEPTEMBER 1733 LEAPED INTO A CHALKPIT TWENTY FIVE -FEET DEEP A FOXHUNTING WITH HIS MASTER ON HIS BACK AND IN OCTOBER 1734 -HE WON THE HUNTER’S PLATE ON WORTHY DOWNS AND WAS RODE BY HIS OWNER AND -ENTERED IN THE NAME OF “BEWARE CHALK PIT”. - -THE ABOVE BEING THE WORDS OF THE ORIGINAL INSCRIPTION WERE RESTORED BY -THE Rᵀ. HON. SIR WILLIAM HEATHCOTE, BARONET SEP. A.D. 1870] - -After leaving Merdon I took another turning to see the monument on -Farley Mount. It is in the form of a pyramid, and stands on such a high -point of the downs that Salisbury spire is visible from it in clear -weather. Inside there is a room where wayfarers and picnic parties may -rest and be thankful. On the wall we read that the horse of Paulet St. -John leaped into a chalk pit and not only was unhurt, but won the plate -at a race the next year! - -Many a good man is overlooked in this world for want of a “horse.” This -animal not only bore its master nobly during life, but has carried -his name to posterity after death. Thus in Olympic times did Aura -immortalize the Corinthian Phidolas, who raised a statue in her honour. - -The sun was sinking like a ball of fire before I left this spot, and -the shadow of the pyramid was lengthening into a spire on the smooth -down. Descending, I walked along a wire-netting put up to circumscribe -the “bunnies” who swarm in this neighbourhood, and then came to Crab -Wood. Thence I reached, by the old Roman highway, Tegg Down, where the -soldiers were practising at targets, and soon was back on the main road -near “Oliver’s Battery.” - -The ancient “Gwent” was surrounded by a sea of foliage. Only in one -direction was there an opening--over the chalk downs westward. This -vast forest was part of the great Andreds wood which clothed the chief -part of Kent, Sussex, and Hampshire. Different districts in it had -local names. Southwards from Winchester it came to be called Bere -Forest, and afterwards Waltham Chase. Roman roads from “Venta Belgarum” -pierced it in several directions. - -There is a story about part of it connected with the building of the -Cathedral. Bishop Walkelin found himself in want of timber, and applied -to the Conqueror to let him have as much timber as he could carry out -of Hanepinges Wood in four days and nights. William at once granted -the request. The astute bishop then collected all the woodmen in the -neighbourhood, and they managed to cut and carry the whole wood within -the appointed time. When the King returned to Winchester and went into -the district he exclaimed--“Am I bewitched, or have I lost my senses? -Why I thought I had a most delightful wood here?” - -The cause of the clearance was explained to him, and he was angry; but -Walkelin pacified him by falling on his knees and offering to resign -his bishopric. “I was too lavish a donor, and thou wast too grasping a -receiver,” he finally replied. - -[Sidenote: Hampage Oak.] - -There is a tradition that one tree was spared in this general -clearance--an oak under which St. Augustine had preached. I was anxious -to see this venerable relic, and inquired where Hanepinges Wood was. -No one could give me any information. At last I came to a man upon whom -the light seemed suddenly to break. - -“Hanepinges? It must be ‘Hampage.’ There is the Hampage oak, to the -south-east, near Itchen Abbas. It is rather more than five miles off.” - -Wishing to make a round, I walked again to King’s Worthy, and, keeping -to the right, passed on my left hand Miss Turner’s handsome new -residence; and, on my right, a fine old house with a kind of tower, -which I heard, to my surprise, had been the old parsonage. A little -further on a larger house with a long façade is that of King’s Worthy -Park. - -A road pleasantly fringed with trees leads to the Itchen Abbas station. -By taking the train I might have saved four miles of my walk. - -Near this point, a little to the left, on a hill, a Roman pavement -was discovered some years ago. It was a fine specimen, adorned with -the heads of Medusa, Venus, Neptune, Mercury, and Mars. A house was -built over it for its protection, but was not kept in repair, the rain -came in, the mice and the tourists arrived, and when I saw it there -was little left; what there is has now been earthed up. Thus what had -lasted nearly two thousand years was destroyed shortly after it was -found. - -From Itchen Abbas station I made my way to the Plough Inn--a little -distance in front towards Easton--and passed over the river fringed -with its “long purples.” Then I entered Avington Park, through a wood -of lofty trees, and obtained, across a sheet of water, a view of the -house. - -This mansion stands on the site of one of old renown, which belonged to -the princely Brydges, Dukes of Chandos; and where the “Merry Monarch,” -when sojourning at Winchester, often came and held high carnival. It -was graced or disgraced by a lady of note; for the first Brydges, being -a man of courage, married that Countess of Shrewsbury, who, disguised -as a page, held a horse for Buckingham while he killed her husband in -a duel. The last Duke of Chandos built the present house, and also -the brick church--to which we soon came--in memory of his wife. Their -daughter, a descendant of Mary Tudor, Henry VIII.’s sister, became -Duchess of Buckingham, and her son sold this property to Mr. Shelley, -the present owner’s father. - -Nearly opposite the church is a handsome sarcophagus to the late -Mr. Shelley. The plantations around the domain are magnificent, the -avenue being two miles in length. After leaving the church I came -to a baker’s shop, and saw a pretty person standing in the doorway -with “_Goodchild_” inscribed in large letters over her. This seemed -promising, so I asked her if she could tell me where to find St. -Augustine’s Oak. - -“Oh, you mean the Gospel oak?”[109] she replied. “You must go through -the wicket-gate a few yards above this, and keep along the line of the -fence for about a mile. None of the children here know it. I doubt -whether any of the villagers do. I am sorry I cannot accompany you, but -I am engaged.” - -I thanked her. Old Syrus says that a pleasant companion is as good as a -carriage, but as I had no such conveyance on this occasion, I trudged -on in solitary silence. Following the instructions given, I soon came -to a line of lime-trees, between which and the fence I walked for half -a mile. I began to fear that I might miss the tree, and go on for an -indefinite distance. There was no one to inquire of, and nothing to -break the stillness save when a wood-pigeon was heard cooing, or, -startled by my approach, burst out of a tree with great commotion. Thus -I tramped on, over turf sweet with thyme and starry with cinquefoil. -I felt so lonely that I was glad to see a squirrel which ran along -the top of the railing beside me, and would stop now and then as if -looking back to see if I was following. Was it-- - - “Sent by some spirit to mortals good, - Or the unseen genius of the wood.” - -I know not, but soon he reached a tree up which he ran, and lo! behind -it stood the Hampage Oak. It was a mere shell about twelve feet high, -and kept together with an iron hoop, but duly honoured by having an -iron fence round it. Among the green, luxuriant trees it looked like an -emblem of death. I observed that it stood in the centre where two green -alleys crossed. It may have been in this state of decay for centuries, -for oak is very durable, and Augustine may actually have preached under -it. I should think, from its standing on the cross roads, that Saxon -“moots,” or meetings, may have been held here, and the chief man may -have taken up his position under it. - -[Sidenote: Tichborne.] - -Returning to the main road, I proceeded through the village to -Tichborne, about three miles farther on--the name has become so -celebrated that I could not omit it.[110] About a mile beyond it lies -Cheriton, where the engagement took place between the Royalists and -Roundheads, which ended in the former being defeated and pursued all -through a dreadful night. - -The name of Tichborne is supposed to have sprung from the soil, or, -I should say, from the stream which winds along the park. The church -in the village is most interesting. It retains high oaken pews, many -of them enriched with carving. One side is entirely occupied by the -Tichborne chapel, in which generations have been laid to rest, but the -earliest memorial is a brass dated 1569. There is a curious little old -effigy of a baby in a red frock, and a very handsome monument of marble -or alabaster to the Tichborne and his wife of the time of James I. - -There is a piece of ground near the house which, by the unpleasant -name of the “Crawls,” commemorates a most noble action. The lady of -Tichborne in Henry I.’s reign was famed for her liberality, and, when -aged and dying, wished to establish a dole of bread to be given to -all comers on every Lady Day. Her husband, who perhaps misliked such -indiscriminate charity, replied that she should have as much land for -the purpose as she could herself walk round while a torch was burning. -Nothing daunted, she rose from her bed, commenced her pilgrimage, and -on her hands and knees actually encircled several acres before her -flame expired. The dole of 1,900 loaves continued to the end of the -last century, when old Sir Roger’s misgivings were justified, and as a -substitute money was given to the parish poor. There can be no doubt -about the substantial character of the gift, but a few regard the story -of the “Crawls” as somewhat airy, and even connect the name with our -old friends the crows. - -A magnificent festival was held here lately when the present baronet -came of age. It lasted three days, and at night the avenue of -enormous elms and beeches shone with thousands of variegated lamps. -Rich and poor were entertained, and many old Winchester people said, -and deliberately too, that they did not think there ever was a more -splendid spectacle. - - -FOOTNOTES: - - [102] The Belgæ came to this country two hundred years before Cæsar. - - [103] Nearly opposite this church stands a large old building, - now let in several tenements. It is called by the people in the - neighbourhood “St. John’s Barracks,” or “Mundy’s Buildings.” The - edifice is supposed to have been at different times a barrack and a - workhouse. In one tenement there are remains of an oak staircase with - an ornamental balustrade, and in another there is in an upper room a - good chalk chimneypiece. - - [104] He was absolved in the chapter house. - - [105] One is the disused canal, another has a cascade. - - [106] Two miles from Twyford. - - [107] Since writing the above a Roman pottery kiln has been - discovered about eight miles beyond Brambridge, on the property of - Admiral Murray-Aynsley. It can be reached by train, being a mile and - a half from the Botley station in the direction of Shidfield. - - [108] Mate. She married secondly one of the Hobbys who held this - manor. - - [109] It is supposed a Gospel was read here during the perambulation - of the bounds. - - [110] A turning north leads to Hampage from the Alresford (Magdalen) - road, by which road Tichborne is about six miles from Winchester. - - - - -THE END. - - - - -INDEX. - - - A. - - Aaron, 124 - - Abbey House, 72 - - Abbots Barton, 139 - - Ælwitha, 72 - - Æthelwold, 143, 147, 153, 156 - - Æthelwold’s Cup, 228, 231 - - Alfred, 59, 61, 93, 114, 126-7 - - Alfred Place, 126 - - Amphibalus, 150 - - Anastasius, St., 38 - - Andover Road, 89 - - Andrew, 166 - - Andrews, St., 21 - - Andrews, Bishop, 191 - - Anglia, 59 - - Anglo-Saxon, 114 - - Anne, 33 - - Apollo, Temple of, 149, 158 - - Arca, 12 - - Arcade, 197 - - Archives, 70 - - Arthur, King, 17, 16, 151 - - Arthur, Prince, 18, 119 - - Arthur’s Table, 17 - - Athelstan, 62, 87 - - Athelwolf, 93, 153 - - Augustine, St., 290 - - Augustine Oak, 293 - - Austen Friars, 183 - - Avington Park, 292 - - - B. - - Baigent, Mr., 40 - - Bartholomew’s, St., Church, 126 - - Basynge, W. de, 197, 268 - - Bates, Col., 275 - - Beaufort, 171, 196, 247, 256 - - Becket, St., T. à, 96, 118, 251 - - “Bell and Crown,” 64 - - Benedictional, 215 - - Benedictines, 159 - - Bere Forest, 18, 290 - - Bertin, St., 129 - - Birinus, St., 73, 193, 152, 155 - - Black Book, 74, 87 - - Blois, De, 114, 118, 135, 189, 216 - - “Blue Ball,” 266 - - Boles, 184 - - Boleyn, A., 195 - - Brambridge, 279 - - Bramston, Miss, 11, 206 - - Brewers Arms, 272 - - Bridge Street, 77 - - Brinstan, St., 211 - - Bristol Cross, 58 - - Britons, 39 - - Brooks, Upper, 127, 239 - - Brooks, Middle, 239 - - Brydges, 292 - - Budden, Mr., 89 - - Buckingham, Duke of, 254 - - Buckingham, Mr., 240 - - Burleigh, Capt., 23 - - Butter Cross, 57, 145, 173 - - - C. - - Cage, 92 - - Campeden, 253 - - Canning, 125 - - Canon Street, 89 - - Carmelites, 215 - - Castle, 12, 14, 19, 27, 31 - - Catherine’s, St., Hill, 260 - - Cerdic, 151 - - Cerne, 260 - - Chalkley, Mr., 145, 173 - - Chandos, Duke of, 292 - - Chapter House, 221 - - Charles I., 21, 23, 24, 35, 109, 172, 180 - - Charles II., 6, 17, 20, 65, 175, 221 - - Charles’s palace, 21, 32 - - Charters, 213 - - Cheesehill, 272 - - Cheriton, 294 - - Chesil, 275 - - Cheyney Court, 225 - - Chicheley, 20 - - Chilcombe, 262 - - Christ’s Hospital, 241 - - Chudleigh, Miss, 47 - - Clerk, A., 85 - - Clerk, J., 105 - - Cloberry, 200 - - Cloisters, 169, 218 - - Cnut, 132, 161 - - Cobbett, 24 - - Cobham, Lord, 22, 98 - - Coire, 150 - - Coke, 119 - - Colbrand, 87, 147 - - Collins, 112 - - Commoners, 93 - - Compton, 280 - - Concord, Temple of, 149 - - Constans, 151 - - Cooke, John, 255 - - Corby Castle, 138 - - Corfe Castle, 6 - - Cornhill, W. of, 264 - - Corpus Christi, 114 - - Courtenay, Bishop, 198 - - Courts (Law), 32 - - Crawley, 44 - - Crab Wood, 289 - - Crema, J. de, 165 - - Cromwell, 26, 28, 71, 168 - - Cromwell’s family, 284 - - Cross, St., 243 - - Crypt, 211 - - Curle, 26 - - Cynegils, 114, 152, 264 - - Cynehard, 287 - - Cynewulf, 287 - - - D. - - Dagon, 151 - - Damascen, 202 - - Dance, 76 - - Danemead, 87 - - Danes, 61, 129, 161 - - Deanery, 221 - - Dear, Mr., 125 - - Despencer, Earl, 16 - - Devenish, 74 - - Diogenes, 157 - - Disraeli, 125 - - Dome Alley, 221, 225 - - Domesday Book, 12, 216 - - Dominican Convent, 76, 200 - - Draperie, 62 - - Druidical stones, 91, 126, 149, 276 - - Dummer, Mr., 58 - - “Dunbar, Henry,” 244 - - Dunstan, 159 - - Durngate, 86 - - Durst, Canon, 223 - - Dyngeley, 63 - - - E. - - Eastgate, 76 - - Edburga, 72 - - Edington, 94, 167, 175, 186, 194 - - Edgar, 66, 160 - - Edmund, 21 - - Edward the Confessor, 14, 162, 171 - - Edward I., 16, 21, 124, 232 - - Edward III., 20, 94, 235 - - Edward IV., 4 - - Edward VI., 6, 136 - - Egbert, 59 - - Elijah, 215 - - Elias, 158 - - Ely, 153 - - Elizabeth, Queen, 19, 34, 69 - - Elizabeth, St., 199 - - Ellis, 207 - - Emma, Queen, 10, 53, 131, 162, 171, 193 - - Ethelbald, 153 - - Ethelmar, 205 - - Ethelred, 160 - - Eton, 20, 105 - - Evelyn, 33 - - Evesham, 61 - - Exchequer, 12 - - - F. - - Fair, 10, 36, 81 - - Fairfax, 28 - - Faith’s, St., 244 - - Farley Mount, 288 - - Fiennes, 109, 185 - - Fitzherbert, 279 - - FitzOsborne, 10 - - Flambard, 165 - - Fleshmonger Street, 53 - - Foix, 198 - - Font, 183 - - Fossedyke House, 88, 125 - - Fox, 107, 203, 179, 189, 192, 216, 235 - - Franklin, 277 - - Frederick, 276 - - French prisoners, 33 - - Freshfield, Mr., 109 - - Friary, 243 - - - G. - - Gaol, 124 - - Gardiner, 40, 125, 194, 217 - - Garnier, 72, 205, 215 - - Gaisford, 125 - - Gaveston, 197 - - George II., 47 - - George IV., 280 - - George Hotel, 1, 4 - - George, St., Street, 4 - - Giles, St., 76, 80, 93, 132, 264 - - God-begot House, 50, 235 - - Godwin, Earl, 14 - - Godwin family, 40 - - Gold Street, 235 - - Grandison, 25 - - Grant, Miss, 142 - - Grenadier, 210 - - Grille, 207 - - Grimbald, St., 129, 138 - - Guildhall, 53, 54, 65, 124 - - Guilds, 62, 123 - - Guy of Warwick, 87, 147 - - Gwent, 18, 262, 289 - - Gwynne, 218, 236 - - - H. - - Hall (Castle), 13, 16, 19, 22 - - Hall, Mr. H., 12 - - Hammond, 23 - - Hampage, 291 - - Hampshire Friendly Society, 10, 13 - - Harestock, 48 - - Harold, 131 - - Harpesfelde, 39, 40 - - Harthacnut, 171, 205 - - Harris, 189 - - Heberden, Miss, 224 - - Heathcote, 284 - - Headbourne, 139 - - Hedda, 152 - - Henry I., 11, 20 - - Henry II., 11, 12, 15, 69, 118, 216, 247 - - Henry III., 5, 15, 17, 20, 74, 103, 205, 229, 243 - - Henry IV., 4, 10, 20, 63 - - Henry V., 17, 20, 64 - - Henry VI., 17, 20, 57, 73, 102, 232 - - Henry VII., 18, 69, 96, 180 - - Henry VIII., 4, 6, 20, 39, 119, 168, 192, 263 - - Hervey, 47 - - High Street, 5, 9 - - Hooper, 137 - - Hopton, 25, 282 - - Horne, 169 - - Hudibras, 149 - - Hursley, 283 - - Hyde Abbey, 118, 127, 128, 136, 138, 229, 247 - - Hyde Mead, 132 - - Hyde Street, 66 - - - I. - - Itchen, 143, 236, 259, 263 - - Isabella, Queen, 21 - - - J. - - James I., 21, 172, 180 - - James II., 222 - - James’, St., Lane, 89 - - James’ Terrace, 89 - - Jewry Street, 123 - - Jews, 35, 85 - - John, King, 5, 15, 264, 268 - - John’s, St., Barracks, 266 - - John’s, St., Croft, 266 - - John’s, St., Hospital, 54, 73, 247, 289 - - John’s, St., Street, 264 - - Johnson, 112 - - Jones, Inigo, 183 - - Josse, St., 16, 130 - - Just, St., 193 - - - K. - - Keble, 285 - - Ken, Bishop, 105, 109, 190, 218 - - Kerebroc, 19 - - Keats, 9 - - King, Mr., 57 - - Kingsgate, 226 - - Kings Worthy, 141, 291 - - Kingston, Duke of, 47 - - Kinnaird, Lord, 44 - - Kitchin, Dean, 83, 189, 226, 278 - - - L. - - Lady Chapel, 200 - - Lainston, 44 - - Langton, Bishop, 200 - - Lark, 105 - - Laurence’s, St., 57, 63, 242 - - Laurence’s, St., Passage, 132 - - Leicester, Lord, 101 - - Leroy, Miss, 11, 206 - - Leland, 118 - - Lewis, W., 254 - - Library, 213 - - Library, Free, 65 - - Limafelda, 5 - - Lincoln, 5 - - Lisle, 39, 254, 255 - - Liverpool, Lord, 125 - - Longwood, 209 - - Lourtebourne, 231 - - Love, Nicholas, 109 - - Lucius, 150, 198 - - Lucy, Bishop de, 192, 198 - - - M. - - Madron, 149 - - Magdalen Fair, 83 - - Magdalen Hospital, 236, 266 - - Malchus, 192 - - Mark, St., 150 - - Market Street, 59 - - Markham, 22 - - Mary, Queen, 20, 119, 136, 171, 200 - - Mary, St., 117, 229 - - Matilda, 11, 20, 117, 132 - - Maurice’s, St., 63 - - Measures, Standard, 66 - - Mechanics’ Institute, 173 - - Mellon, Miss, 64 - - Merdon Castle, 283, 287 - - Mercurius, 170 - - Mews, Royal, 15 - - Michael’s, St., 244 - - Milner, 138, 196 - - Minster Lane, 66 - - Minster Street, 59 - - Mirabel, 222 - - Montagu, Mrs., 184 - - Morestead, 231, 272 - - Morley, 107, 121, 122, 213, 232 - - Museum, British, 268 - - Museum, Winchester, 65, 152, 211, 267 - - - N. - - Narwhal, 100 - - Natives, Society of, 37 - - Netley Abbey, 200 - - New College, 96 - - New Forest, 62 - - Newburgh Street, 37 - - Newmarket, 33 - - Newles, 254 - - Newport, 23 - - Nicholas, Warden, 106, 109, 223 - - Nicholas, St., 183 - - Noble poverty, 258 - - Northesk, Lord, 65, 269 - - Northgate, 88 - - Nuns’ Walk, 143 - - - O. - - Obelisk, 37 - - Ogle, 25, 27, 31 - - Oliver’s Battery, 282 - - Oram, 38 - - Oswald, 160 - - Otterbourne, 280 - - Otway, 109 - - Overbury, 120 - - - P. - - Palm Hall, 81 - - Palmere, 124 - - Pamplin, Miss, 50 - - Parchment Street, 200 - - Parker, 142 - - Parliaments, 31 - - Paternoster Row, 230 - - Paul’s, St., 38 - - Paulet, Lord, 54, 65 - - Pavement, 152, 211 - - Penthouse, 62 - - Perkins, Mr., 50 - - Perrers, Alice, 94 - - Peter’s, St., Street, 34, 53, 239 - - Peterborough, 153 - - Petrus, 254 - - Phidolas, 289 - - Philip, 20, 34, 119, 200 - - Philip, St., 200 - - Pilgrim’s Hall, 223 - - Pillory, 175 - - Plague mounds, 268 - - Plutarch, 85 - - Ponthieu, 130 - - Pope, 277 - - Popham, 120 - - Portland Isle, 206 - - Prior’s Hall, 231 - - Punchbowl, 268 - - - R. - - Raleigh, 22, 119 - - Raley, 91 - - Ranelagh, 47 - - Rebuses, 203 - - Refectory, 223 - - Reniger, 44 - - Rheims, 114 - - Richard I., 20, 22, 69, 199 - - Richard II., 63 - - Richards, Mr., 125 - - Rings, 216, 229 - - “Rising Sun,” 78 - - Roche, P. de la, 199 - - Rogers, 137 - - Roman Catholics, 236, 282 - - Roman kiln, 279 - - Roman pavement, 291 - - Roman road, 265 - - Romans, 5, 66 - - Round, Mr., 12 - - Round Tower, 17 - - Rose, 225 - - Royal Hotel, 236 - - “Royal Oak,” 50 - - Rudborne, 87, 151, 153 - - Rufus, 20, 61, 81, 163, 164, 171, 179, 189, 216, 217 - - Russell, Lady R., 137 - - Russian cannon, 76 - - - S. - - Salcot, 136 - - Salisbury, Earl of, 81 - - Saludadors, 222 - - Salvation Army, 126 - - Saracen, 202 - - Sawbridge, 199 - - Saxon palace, 11 - - Saxons, 152 - - Say, Master, 4, 124 - - Scoteneye, 84 - - Scowertene Street, 123 - - Scures, Sir J. de, 20, 94 - - Sepulchre, Holy, 207 - - Shelley, Mr., 292 - - Shipley House, 277 - - Shrewsbury, Countess of, 292 - - Silchester, 150 - - Silkstede, 201 - - Simeon, 164 - - Sleepers’ Hill, 282 - - Slype, 212 - - Smith, Sydney, 113 - - Sparkford, 244 - - Sparsholt, 47 - - Soke, 78, 101, 226 - - Soldiers’ Home, 125 - - Solomons, Mrs., 270 - - Southgate, 88, 89 - - Square, The, 58, 59 - - Star, The, 10 - - Stencilling, 64 - - Stephen, 114, 115, 132 - - Stephen’s Table, 256 - - Sternhold, 284 - - Stewart, Herbert, 106 - - Stigand, 11 - - Streets, Ancient, 58 - - Stuart, Lady A., 23 - - Suastika, 186 - - Sumner, Bishop, 197 - - Sustern Spytal, 93 - - Swathling House, 239 - - Swinford, C., 247 - - Swithun, St., 129, 215, 227, 229 - - Swords, Ancient, 37 - - Syrus, 293 - - - T. - - Templars, 74 - - Tennyson, Lord, 276 - - Thatch, 6 - - Tichborne, 294 - - Tichborne, Mr., 282 - - Tichborne, Sir B., 21 - - Tichborne, Sir H., 31 - - Tichborne, Sir R., 25 - - Thomas’, St., Church, 89, 243 - - Toclyve, 268 - - Tower, 179 - - Tower Street, 89 - - Towers, Castle, 14 - - Toye, Mr., 224 - - Trafalgar Street, 33 - - Trusty Servant, 107 - - Tudor, Mary, 292 - - Tuesco, 278 - - Twyford, 146, 275 - - - V. - - Vanderbyl, Mr., 44 - - Valentine, St., 131 - - Venta Belgarum, 290 - - Vergers, 213 - - Victoria Hospital, 267 - - Vulgate, 215 - - - W. - - Wales, Prince of, 16, 248 - - Walkelin, 81, 163, 290 - - Waller, 4, 24, 26, 31 - - Walls, 79 - - Wansborough, 214 - - Waltheof, Earl of, 83 - - Walton, I., 190 - - Water Lane, 66, 86 - - Warton, 112, 149 - - Watts, 105 - - Wayneflete, 105, 168, 171, 190 - - Wessex, 59 - - Westbury Villa, 88 - - Westgate, 9, 34, 36, 89 - - Westminster, 153 - - White House, 236 - - Witham, 216 - - Widmore, 64 - - Wight, 263 - - Wilberforce, 190 - - William I., 11 - - Wilton, Grey de, 22 - - Wolfe, 125 - - Wolkland, 284 - - Wolsey, 39 - - Wolstan, 154 - - Wolvesey, 63, 114, 122 - - Workhouse, 38 - - Wriothesley, 137 - - Wyke, 38, 39 - - Wykeham, 17, 20, 93, 98, 107, 136, 137, 167, 185, 229 - - - Y. - - Yonge, Miss, 280 - - Young, 109 - - - Z. - - Z. O., 253 - - - - -UNWIN BROTHERS, THE GRESHAM PRESS, CHILWORTH AND LONDON. - - - - -Transcriber’s Note - -The following changes have been made: - -References to footnotes 15 (page 16) and 73 (page 179) have been -inserted, as they were missing in the original. - -On page 31 “farewill” has been changed to “farewell” in “at their -farewell”. - -On page 260 a repetition of the word “the” has been removed from -“the Cerne Giant”. - -Some entries in the Index have been changed to match the spelling -in the body of the book: - Page 297 “Athlewulf” has been changed to “Athelwolf” - Page 297 “Basyng” has been changed to “Basynge” - Page 299 “Fiernes” has been changed to “Fiennes” - Page 299 “FitzHerbert” has been changed to “Fitzherbert” - Page 300 “Harpesfield” has been changed to “Harpesfelde” - Page 300 “James’s, St.” has been changed to “James’ St.” - Page 300 “James, Terrace” has been changed to “James’, Terrace” - Page 302 “Roches, P. de” has been changed to “Roche, P. de la” - Page 302 “Rudbourne” has been changed to “Rudborne” - Page 303 “Thomas’s, St.” has been changed to “Thomas’ St.” - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Royal Winchester, by A. 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