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-The Project Gutenberg EBook of Custis-Lee Mansion, by Murray H. Nelligan
-
-This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most
-other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions
-whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of
-the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at
-www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have
-to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook.
-
-Title: Custis-Lee Mansion
- The Robert E. Lee Memorial, Virginia
-
-Author: Murray H. Nelligan
-
-Release Date: November 29, 2015 [EBook #50570]
-
-Language: English
-
-Character set encoding: UTF-8
-
-*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CUSTIS-LEE MANSION ***
-
-
-
-
-Produced by Stephen Hutcheson, Dave Morgan and the Online
-Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net
-
-
-
-
-
-
- [Illustration: U. S. DEPARTMENT OF THE INTERIOR: March 3, 1849]
-
- UNITED STATES DEPARTMENT OF THE INTERIOR
- Stewart L. Udall, _Secretary_
-
- NATIONAL PARK SERVICE
- Conrad L. Wirth, _Director_
-
-
- _HISTORICAL HANDBOOK NUMBER SIX_
-
-This publication is one of a series of handbooks describing the
-historical and archeological areas in the National Park System
-administered by the National Park Service of the United States
-Department of the Interior. It is printed by the Government Printing
-Office and may be purchased from the Superintendent of Documents,
-Washington 25, D. C. Price 25 cents.
-
-
-
-
- CUSTIS-LEE MANSION
- _The Robert E. Lee Memorial_
- VIRGINIA
-
-
- _by Murray H. Nelligan_
-
- [Illustration: Lee on Traveller]
-
- NATIONAL PARK SERVICE HISTORICAL HANDBOOK SERIES No. 6
- WASHINGTON, D.C., 1950 (_REVISED 1962_)
-
-
-
-
-_The National Park System, of which Custis-Lee Mansion is a unit, is
-dedicated to conserving the scenic, scientific, and historic heritage of
-the United States for the benefit and enjoyment of its people._
-
- [Illustration: NATIONAL PARK SERVICE DEPARTMENT OF THE INTERIOR]
-
-
-
-
- _Contents_
-
-
- _Page_
- History of Arlington to 1861 1
- Arlington from 1861 to 1865 24
- Arlington from 1865 to the Present 26
- Guide to the House and Grounds 28
- Visitor Service and Facilities 46
- Administration 47
- Suggested Readings 48
-
- [Illustration: _General Robert E. Lee in 1865._ From the original
- photograph by Mathew Brady in the National Archives.]
-
- [Illustration: ]
-
-Ever since it was built more than a century ago, the Custis-Lee Mansion
-has dominated the scene across the river from the National Capital. An
-outstanding example of a Greek Revival building of the early nineteenth
-century, its dignity and strength, simplicity and steady grace, now make
-it a most appropriate national memorial to one of America’s greatest
-men, Robert E. Lee.
-
-Built by his father-in-law, George Washington Parke Custis, the adopted
-son of General Washington, the mansion was for many years a principal
-repository of many objects associated with George Washington. As such,
-it greatly influenced Robert E. Lee when the building was his home. Like
-him, it experienced the vicissitudes of war and came to be associated
-with his fame. Now it is maintained by the Nation in his honor, and in
-the years to come will serve as a constant reminder of his nobility and
-greatness.
-
-Many years have passed since General Lee lived in the home at Arlington.
-But so real are the memories evoked by its historic atmosphere, it seems
-little more than yesterday that he left it for the last time. A visit to
-the Custis-Lee Mansion gives a deeper, more personal understanding of
-the life and worth of the man to whose memory it is now dedicated.
-
-
-
-
- _History of Arlington to 1861_
-
-
-ANCESTRY OF GEORGE WASHINGTON PARKE CUSTIS. George Washington Parke
-Custis was born April 30, 1781. His mother was Eleanor (Calvert) Custis,
-a granddaughter of the sixth Lord Baltimore; his father, John Parke
-Custis, the only son of Martha Washington by her first marriage. John
-Parke Custis grew to manhood at Mount Vernon, married Eleanor Calvert in
-1774, and died of camp fever in 1781 while serving as aide to General
-Washington at Yorktown. His death left four children fatherless, so the
-two youngest, George Washington Parke Custis and his sister Eleanor,
-were adopted by the Washingtons and taken to Mount Vernon to be raised
-as their own.
-
-
-HIS EARLY LIFE AT MOUNT VERNON. Only 6 months old when he was taken to
-live at Mount Vernon, it was a remarkable experience for a boy as
-sensitive and gifted as young Custis to grow up on terms of intimacy
-with General Washington, whose affection the fatherless lad reciprocated
-with the deepest love and respect. As far as public duties would allow,
-the General supervised the training and education of the boy, who
-acquired from him the interests and ideals which established the pattern
-of his life. “It is really an enjoyment to be here to witness the
-tranquil happiness that reigns throughout the house,” wrote a guest at
-Mount Vernon in 1799, “except when now and then a little bustle is
-occasioned by the young Squire Custis when he returns from hunting,
-bringing in a ‘valiant deer’, as he terms it, that Grandpa and the
-Colonel will devour: nice venison I assure you.”
-
-
-GEORGE WASHINGTON PARKE CUSTIS MOVES TO ARLINGTON. Custis was 18 when
-the General died in 1799. Mrs. Washington did not long survive her
-husband, and when she died, early in 1802, Custis moved to “Mount
-Washington,” as he first called the Arlington estate. This was a tract
-of nearly 1,100 acres that Custis’ father had bought in 1778 with the
-intention of establishing a family seat convenient to Mount Vernon, but
-in 1802 the only tangible remains of his brief ownership were the
-flourishing willows he had planted along the Potomac.
-
-
-“ARLINGTON HOUSE” BEGUN. When Custis moved into a cottage built by the
-former owners of the property, Arlington consisted mostly of woodland
-and virgin oak forests, with a few cleared fields near the river. His
-first concern was to get the fields under cultivation, using for the
-purpose the mules and farm equipment he had purchased at the sales held
-that year at Mount Vernon to settle the legacies of the several
-Washington heirs. Equally urgent was the need to build a house worthy of
-the furnishings and mementoes which he had inherited or bought at the
-Mount Vernon sales, some of which were deteriorating badly in their
-temporary quarters. To this end, he seems to have obtained building
-plans from George Hadfield, a gifted young architect, who had come from
-England in 1795 to take charge of the construction of the Capitol.
-
-Influenced by the contemporary vogue for classical architecture, Custis
-wanted his house to be in the new style, and the architect’s finished
-design was a simplified Greek Doric portico balanced by extended wings,
-the whole of such sturdiness as to show to advantage when viewed from
-across the river. Since ornamentation would be lost at such a distance,
-the architect largely dispensed with it, relying on good proportions to
-give beauty to his creation. Rooms would be large and have high ceilings
-and tall windows, and their severely plain walls would be perfect for
-displaying the many portraits Custis possessed. Having the rooms open
-into each other would give extensive vistas, framed by pleasing
-semicircular arches.
-
- [Illustration: _Early view of Mount Vernon._]
-
- [Illustration: _George Washington Parke Custis._ From a miniature
- made at Mount Vernon in 1799.]
-
-Though clay for bricks and choice timber were at hand on his estate,
-Custis lacked the money necessary to build his house all at once.
-Therefore he followed the common practice of building the wings first,
-and the main section later. The north wing was built about 1803, and was
-evidently intended to be one great banquet room. By 1804, the south wing
-was completed, containing an office and a large room for entertaining.
-In that year Custis married Mary Lee Fitzhugh. To provide living
-quarters for himself and his bride he had the north wing partitioned
-into three small rooms. With a kitchen and laundry in the basement, the
-young couple had the essentials of living at “Arlington House,” as
-Custis named his new home, after the old family seat on the Eastern
-Shore. At this point, work seems to have been stopped. A visitor
-reported in 1811, “I was struck, on entering the grounds of Mr. Custis,
-at Arlington, ... with several of the most picturesque views. This seat
-is on a superb mount, and his buildings are begun in a stile of superior
-taste and elegance.”
-
-
-ARLINGTON AND THE DEVELOPMENT OF AMERICAN AGRICULTURE. While building
-his house, Custis inaugurated an annual fair designed to improve
-agricultural practices in general, and particularly the breeding of
-fine-wooled sheep. Beginning in 1803, Custis invited the local gentry
-each spring to exhibit their best sheep and homespun cloth at Arlington
-Spring, near the edge of the river. After prizes had been awarded, the
-fair would close with patriotic speeches and a great dinner under the
-tent which had been used by Washington during the Revolution.
-
- [Illustration: “ARLINGTON HOUSE,” AS IT APPEARED FROM ABOUT
- 1804-1816]
-
-By breeding the native stock on his farms with the imported stock he had
-acquired from Mount Vernon, Custis himself developed a hardy race of
-fine-wooled sheep, known as the “Arlington Improved.” Because the wool
-of this breed could be woven into finer cloth than hitherto possible,
-the Arlington sheep were widely diffused throughout the country. Custis
-also sought to correct the primitive agricultural methods which had
-already caused much land in his State to be abandoned because of soil
-erosion. He advocated the establishment of a National Board of
-Agriculture with functions like those of the Department of Agriculture
-today, and he offered one of his outlying properties for use as an
-experimental breeding station. So popular was the Arlington
-Sheepshearing, as it was commonly called, that the idea was quickly
-adopted elsewhere. Though economic conditions forced Custis to
-discontinue the event after 1812, it was one of the primary sources of
-the great program of agricultural improvement in effect today.
-
-
-BIRTH OF MARY ANNA RANDOLPH CUSTIS. Mary Anna Randolph Custis, born in
-1808, was the only one of the four Custis children to survive the first
-year of infancy. Upon her the parents centered their affections and
-hopes. The mother’s natural piety and devotion to her family were
-deepened by the loss of her other children, while the father’s warm and
-generous nature was such that in later years she could not recall ever
-having received an unkind word from him.
-
-
-CUSTIS AND THE WAR OF 1812. During the War of 1812, the British blockade
-of the Chesapeake deprived Custis of much of the income from his other
-estates, so it is doubtful if any building was done at Arlington at this
-time. Convinced that Napoleon threatened the liberties of mankind more
-than England, Custis strongly opposed the war. For this reason he was
-chosen to deliver the funeral oration for General Lingan, a veteran of
-the Revolution who was murdered by the same Baltimore mob which almost
-killed Robert E. Lee’s father, “Light-Horse Harry” Lee. Nevertheless,
-Custis followed the example set by George Washington during the American
-Revolution by forbidding the managers of his plantations to furnish
-supplies to the British; and when British troops approached the National
-Capital in 1814, Custis fought in the ranks at the battle of
-Bladensburg.
-
- [Illustration: _Arlington Spring, scene of the famous
- “Sheepshearings.”_]
-
-
-“ARLINGTON HOUSE” COMPLETED. After the war, Custis resumed work on his
-house, and the large center section and great portico were to have been
-finished in 1817. “A house that any one might see with half an eye,” as
-Robert E. Lee later described it, could not fail to attract attention,
-and “Custis’ Folly” is first mentioned by a traveler in 1818. Although
-the interior was never completed as planned and the rear was left
-unstuccoed, “Arlington House” was soon considered one of the handsomest
-residences about Washington. One early writer describes it as “a
-noble-looking place, having a portico of stately white columns, which,
-as the mansion stands high, with a back ground of dark woods, forms a
-beautiful object in the landscape.”
-
-
-THE MEMORY OF GEORGE WASHINGTON KEPT ALIVE AT ARLINGTON. “Arlington
-House” now became the successor of Mount Vernon as the “Washington
-Treasury,” as Custis termed it. His collection of Washington relics was
-the largest in existence, and it filled the halls and rooms of the
-mansion. The owner of these relics welcomed all who wished to view them,
-and he never tired of entertaining his guests with tales of his early
-years at Mount Vernon. Many distinguished men visited Arlington at one
-time or other—Sam Houston, Daniel Webster, and Andrew Jackson, to name a
-few. One of the most notable was General Lafayette, who twice was a
-guest there when he toured the United States in 1824 and 1825. Custis
-spent much time with the venerable marquis, and used the wealth of
-reminiscenses he gained from the old soldier to write the delightful
-_Conversations With Lafayette_, which was published in a local newspaper
-in 1825. Encouraged by their favorable reception, he then began his own
-_Recollections and Private Memoirs of Washington_, which proved equally
-popular and were widely reprinted in the newspapers of the period.
-
-Even more successful were the dramas Custis wrote at this time, based on
-heroic episodes in the Nation’s past or on inspiring contemporary
-achievements. _The Indian Prophecy_ used an incident in Washington’s
-early life as its theme and established a vogue for Indian plays which
-lasted over 50 years; while the _Rail Road_ was the first one written on
-that subject in America. Others dramatized such events as the battle of
-Baltimore and the launching of a new warship. For 10 years his dramatic
-pieces were staged from Boston to Charleston and did much to develop a
-distinctive American drama.
-
- [Illustration: _An early view of “Arlington House.”_ From an
- engraving made about 1845.]
-
-A man of culture, Custis used all of his abilities to perpetuate the
-memory of Washington. He erected the first monument on the President’s
-birthplace in 1816, wrote poems to celebrate his greatness, and painted
-colorful battle pictures in which the great General was the central
-figure. An accomplished orator, he was tireless in advocating the
-principles of freedom for which Washington had fought, and planned to do
-with his slaves as his foster father had done—free them after they had
-been prepared to shift for themselves. Although he never held an
-elective office, his influence was considerable and for the good.
-
- [Illustration: _The tents used by General Washington during the
- American Revolution were cherished relics at Arlington._ From B. J.
- Lossing, “Arlington House,” _Harper’s Monthly Magazine_, VII (Sept.
- 1853), 444.]
-
-
-HOME LIFE AT ARLINGTON. An equal source of inspiration at “Arlington
-House” was the religious atmosphere of its home life. Mrs. Custis was a
-devout Episcopalian, noted for her simplicity and piety. It was she who
-influenced Robert E. Lee’s Sunday school teacher, Bishop William Meade,
-to enter the ministry. Diligent where her husband was inclined to be
-easy-going, Mrs. Custis was one with him in making Arlington free from
-ostentation.
-
-Kept unspoiled by her parents’ example, Mary Custis was given the
-education deemed necessary for a young lady of her position, and as soon
-as she was old enough herself taught the children of nearby families and
-family servants. Though an only child, she never lacked companionship,
-for usually the house overflowed with relatives and their children. The
-Custises, too, often went visiting, especially to “Ravensworth,”
-formerly the home of Mrs. Custis’ father and now owned by her only
-brother. Here Mary must have played as a child with Robert E. Lee, for
-he and his mother were also related to the Fitzhughs and often visited
-at their estate. The Lees were familiar with Arlington as well, for
-Robert was a favorite with the Custises from boyhood. He and Mary Custis
-are said to have planted some of the trees in the vicinity of the house
-when they were young.
-
- [Illustration: _Title page of the 1830 edition of Curtis’ most
- popular play._]
-
-
-
-
- POCAHONTAS!
- OR,
- THE SETTLERS OF VIRGINIA,
-
-
- A NATIONAL DRAMA,
- IN THREE ACTS.
-
-
- Performed at the Walnut Street Theatre, Philadelphia, twelve nights,
- with great success.
-
-
- WRITTEN BY
- GEORGE WASHINGTON CUSTIS, ESQ.
- Of Arlington House. Author of the Rail Road, Pawnee Chief, &c. &c.
-
-
- PHILADELPHIA EDITION.
- © ALEXANDER, PR.
- :::::::
- 1830.
-
-
-MARRIAGE OF MARY CUSTIS AND ROBERT E. LEE. Childhood friendship turned
-to love by the time Lee graduated from West Point and was assigned to
-duty in the Corps of Engineers. Whenever possible he was at Arlington
-courting Mary Custis, and in the summer of 1830 they became engaged.
-
-The evening of the wedding, June 30, 1831, was one of steady rain, but
-nothing could affect the warmth and happiness inside the friendly
-portals of Arlington. The ceremony was formal and elaborate as befitted
-the union of two of the most prominent families of Virginia. The happy
-couple, surrounded by pretty bridesmaids and uniformed groomsmen, made a
-picturesque scene.
-
- [Illustration: _George Washington Parke Custis._ Engraved from the
- portrait by Gilbert Stuart made about 1825.]
-
-
-THE LEES AT FORT MONROE, 1831 TO 1834. Wedding trips not being customary
-at that time, the young married couple stayed at Arlington until it was
-time for them to go to Fort Monroe where Lee was stationed. At Christmas
-they returned home, and, because of the bad weather, Mrs. Lee remained
-there till spring. Furniture and choice provisions from the Custis farms
-helped to make the Lee’s quarters at the fort more homelike, while Mrs.
-Custis’ frequent letters lessened her daughter’s homesickness, as did
-the whimsical, chatty ones her father wrote regularly to his “Dr Son &
-Daughter.” In September of 1832, their first child was born there, a son
-named George Washington Custis Lee, after his grandfather. Christmas
-that year at Arlington was especially happy because of the new baby
-(known familiarly as “Custis” Lee), and because Lee was unexpectedly
-able to be there. The following year passed much the same way.
-
- [Illustration: _Lieutenant and Mrs. Robert E. Lee in 1838._ From the
- portraits by William E. West. U. S. Army Signal Corps photographs.]
-
-
-LEE ON DUTY AT WASHINGTON, 1834 TO 1837. In the autumn of 1834, Lee was
-transferred to Washington and with his family made his home at
-Arlington. Sometimes his work kept him away overnight, but usually each
-morning and afternoon he was to be seen riding between his office and
-home. Lee disliked the office work which kept him in the city until the
-middle of 1837, but life at Arlington was most pleasant. Mrs. Lee’s
-parents idolized their little grandson, and for them Lee felt a growing
-respect and affection. Custis was the nearest link to the first
-President, and associating with him and living in the presence of so
-many of the General’s personal belongings made Washington very close and
-real to the young engineer, an example and influence that steadily
-entered his soul.
-
-Lee fitted easily into the quiet way of life at Arlington. Mrs. Lee and
-her mother cared little for formal social affairs, preferring to be out
-of doors gardening or riding about the estate when not entertaining
-visitors. Mr. Custis was usually busy with his farm, and since he liked
-to hunt, he might often be seen walking or riding about the estate with
-his gun and dogs; evenings he spent with his family by the hearth, or
-retired to his study to work on his literary efforts. Each morning and
-evening the family and servants gathered for prayers, and grace was said
-before each meal. On Sundays the family usually drove into Alexandria to
-church, or held services at home if the roads were bad. Mrs. Lee, like
-her father, was an amateur artist, an interest shared by her husband who
-also occasionally assisted Mr. Custis in his business affairs or put his
-engineering experience to use in making improvements.
-
-Troubles there were, of course. Lee was away on a mission to Ohio and
-Michigan when his second child, a daughter whom they named Mary, was
-born in the summer of 1835. When he returned, he found his wife so
-seriously ill that she was unable to walk for months. This was the first
-of a series of illnesses which were to make her an invalid much of her
-life.
-
-Though this experience saddened Lee at the time, it made his home the
-more dear to him. It was about this time that he wrote to a friend: “The
-Country looks very sweet now, and the hill at Arlington covered with
-verdure, and perfumed by the blossoms of the trees, the flowers of the
-Garden. Honey-Suckles, yellow Jasmine, &c. is more to my taste than at
-any other season of the year. But the brightest flower there blooming is
-my daughter.... [I] hurry home to her every day.”
-
- [Illustration: _View from Arlington about 1837._ From the original
- lithograph in the New York Public Library.]
-
-
-THE LEES AT ST. LOUIS, 1838 TO 1839. In 1837 another son was born, and
-although Lee had received orders to report to St. Louis he was able to
-remain at Arlington until he was assured the mother and baby were doing
-well. Christmas he was home again, remaining there till spring so Mrs.
-Lee and the two boys could return with him to St. Louis. Little Mary
-stayed behind with her grandparents, which may have compensated them
-somewhat for the absence of her parents the following Christmas.
-
-Now a captain, Lee brought his family home in the spring of 1839 for
-Mrs. Lee to await the arrival of their fourth child, though he could not
-remain for the event. Early in July, he heard a new daughter had joined
-the family circle, but not until Christmas did he get to see her.
-
-An incident which probably occurred that winter illustrates the
-seriousness with which Lee viewed his family responsibilities. He and
-8-year-old Custis had gone for a walk one snowy day, the boy following
-behind while his father broke the way. Preoccupied with ploughing
-through the deep snow, the father failed to look behind for some time,
-and when he did, saw that his little son was setting his feet carefully
-in the tracks his father had made, while imitating his every movement.
-“When I saw this,” Lee related afterwards, “I said to myself, ‘It
-behooves me to walk very straight, when the little fellow is already
-following in my tracks’.”
-
-
-LEE AT FORT HAMILTON, N. Y., 1841 TO 1846. Lee did not return to St.
-Louis until the summer of 1840, and then only to finish up his work and
-return home. There his fifth child, a girl, was born the following
-February. Soon after, Lee was sent to Fort Hamilton, N. Y., where he
-remained on duty until 1846. During these years it was customary for his
-family to be with him at New York during the summer and fall months and
-at Arlington the rest of the year, where Lee usually passed the winter.
-Two more children, a boy and a girl, were born in these years. Telling a
-friend about the arrival of the boy, Lee wrote: “About a month ago a
-young Robert E. Lee made his appearance at Arlington, much to the
-surprise and admiration of his brothers and sisters. He has a fine long
-nose like his father, but no whiskers.”
-
-
-WAR WITH MEXICO, 1846 TO 1848. Because war with Mexico seemed imminent
-when Lee went back to Fort Hamilton in the spring of 1846, Mrs. Lee and
-the children remained at Arlington. Hostilities began in May, and in
-August Lee was ordered to report for service in Mexico. Returning home,
-he spent a few days at Arlington arranging his affairs, then said
-goodbye to his family. Twenty-two months passed before he saw it again,
-months of anxiety for those waiting at home, relieved only by his long
-and frequent letters, such as the one he wrote to his two eldest sons
-the day before Christmas, 1846: “I hope good Santa Claus will fill my
-Rob’s stocking to-night: that Mildred’s, Agnes’s, and Anna’s may break
-down with good things. I do not know what he may have for you and Mary,
-but if he only leaves for you one half of what I wish, you will want for
-nothing!”
-
-The war ended early in 1848, and seeing many of the returning volunteers
-enjoy Mr. Custis’ hospitality at Arlington Spring must have made the
-Lees more impatient for the return of their own hero. When Lee finally
-arrived in Washington he missed the carriage sent for him, and so
-procured a horse to ride home. None of those anxiously watching for a
-glimpse of the carriage noticed the lone horseman ascending the hill,
-and not till “Spec,” Lee’s dog, rushed out joyfully barking did they
-realize their soldier was home. Great was the excitement as he greeted
-them in the hall, and his mistaking a friend’s little boy for his own
-added to the hilarity. “Here I am again, my dear Smith,” Lee wrote to
-his brother the next day, “perfectly surrounded by Mary and her precious
-children, who seem to devote themselves to staring at the furrows in my
-face and the white hairs in my head.... I find them too much grown, and
-all well, and I have much cause for thankfulness and gratitude to that
-good God who has once more united us.”
-
- [Illustration: _Robert E. Lee in civilian dress, about 1850._]
-
-
-THE LEES AT ARLINGTON, 1848 TO 1849. The summer of 1848 was a happy one
-at Arlington, for Lee was on duty in Washington and was promoted to
-brevet colonel, so that hereafter he would be titled “Colonel Lee.”
-Toward the end of the year he was assigned to supervise the construction
-of a new fort in Baltimore, but soon after officially taking over the
-project, he returned to Arlington. This was the winter that a guest at
-Arlington observed Lee’s face in quiet repose as he read to his family
-assembled about the table one night, and thought to herself: “You
-certainly look more like a great man than any one I have ever seen.”
-
-Mrs. Lee and her mother made an equally favorable impression on a lady
-who visited Arlington the next spring. “We had tea in the Washington
-teacups, and Mrs. Lee took me into the tangled neglected gardens, full
-of rose-buds, and allowed me to pick my fill of the sweet dainty Bon
-Silene variety, which she told me blossomed all winter. What a view that
-was!... Mrs. Lee had the face of a genius: a wealth of dark hair,
-carelessly put up, gave her fine head the air of one of Romney’s
-portraits. She was most lovely and sympathetic. Her mother, Mrs. Custis,
-was a woman full of character.”
-
-
-THE LEES AT BALTIMORE, 1849 TO 1852. Lee was home for a short time
-during the summer of 1849 to recuperate from a touch of fever, and in
-the autumn his family joined him at Baltimore. There they lived through
-1851, coming home for Christmas and occasional visits. Seldom was the
-family together, however, for their eldest son, Custis, entered West
-Point in 1850, and usually some of the children were at Arlington with
-their grandparents.
-
-Mrs. Custis kept the absent ones informed as to what was going on at
-Arlington. “Your Grandfather is seized with a spirit of improvement
-lately,” she wrote to the lad at West Point in 1851. “He is making new
-steps to the Portico (the old ones having so decayed as to be unsafe)
-and intends paving it with octagon brick tiles which are now being
-burned in the vast brick kilns in Washington.” Later, she reported that
-the steps were finished and the portico floor about to be laid.
-
-Though 70 and often unwell, Mr. Custis’ activity seldom flagged. A
-polished and effective speaker, with a gift for being able to enter into
-the spirit of an occasion, he was well-liked for his personal charm and
-unassuming manner. He was fond of children, and a great favorite with
-the young Lees. Conscious of his advancing years, Custis increased the
-output of his _Recollections of Washington_, that his personal knowledge
-of the General might not be lost. In this he was encouraged by the Lees,
-who also approved his renewed interest in scientific agriculture. While
-strongly advocating the establishment of a department of agriculture in
-the National Government, Custis applied the latest methods of
-fertilizing and cultivation to his own farms so that the land inherited
-by his grandchildren would be fertile, rather than worn-out like that of
-so much of his native State.
-
- [Illustration: _A view of “Arlington House” made in 1853 by the
- historian-artist Benson J. Lossing._ From the original water color
- in the Lee Mansion.]
-
-Christmas in 1851 was typical of the many happy ones celebrated at
-Arlington, and, telling his son at West Point about it, Lee wrote: “[We]
-found your grandfather at the Washington depot, Daniel and the old
-carriage and horses, and young Daniel on the colt Mildred. Your mother,
-grandfather, Mary Eliza, the little people, and the baggage, I thought
-load enough for the carriage, so Rooney and I took our feet in our hands
-and walked over.... The snow impeded the carriage as well as us, and we
-reached here shortly after it. The children were delighted at getting
-back, and passed the evening in devising pleasure for the morrow. They
-were in upon us before day on Christmas morning, to overhaul their
-stockings.... I need not describe to you our amusements, you have
-witnessed them so often; nor the turkey, cold ham, plum-pudding, mince
-pies, etc., at dinner.” “Rooney” was the Lee’s second boy, William Henry
-Fitzhugh.
-
- [Illustration: _George Washington Parke Custis in his old age._ From
- the photograph by Mathew Brady in the collection of Frederick H.
- Meserve, New York.]
-
-
-THE LEES AT WEST POINT, 1852 TO 1855; DEATH OF MRS. CUSTIS. Lee took
-command of West Point in September 1852, where he was shortly joined by
-his family. Mrs. Custis had been well when they left, so the telegram
-which came in April telling of her critical illness was entirely
-unexpected. Mrs. Lee started for home at once, but on arrival found her
-beloved mother dead and her father prostrated by his loss. She at once
-took charge of the household and herself conducted the morning worship
-which had been forgotten in the sorrow and confusion. After breakfast
-she selected a spot for her mother’s grave among the trees a short
-distance from the house. For years, Lee had called Mrs. Custis “Mother,”
-and his grief at her death was almost as great as Mrs. Lee’s. By now the
-religious convictions instilled in him by his mother had been matured by
-his own experiences and the example of those at Arlington, and soon
-after his return from West Point at the end of the term, he and two of
-his daughters were confirmed at Christ Church, Alexandria.
-
-Hoping to divert Mr. Custis, the Lees took him back with them to West
-Point. But not even a trip to Niagara Falls with his son-in-law could
-keep him from worrying about his beloved Arlington, and he soon returned
-home. To ease his loneliness, the Lees came home on brief visits in the
-spring and summer of 1854.
-
-
-LEE IN TEXAS, 1855 TO 1857. Early in 1855, Lee was assigned to a cavalry
-regiment being organized for service on the frontier. Before leaving for
-his new station he made arrangements to have the large unfinished room
-off the main hall, at Arlington, made into a drawing room and to have a
-hot-air furnace installed to heat the house. The “Big Room,” as it was
-called, when finished was very handsome with its marble mantelpieces and
-crystal chandelier, and Mrs. Lee and the girls were proud of its
-appearance when they showed it to Lee on his return for the holidays.
-
-Much of his leave was given over to straightening out the finances of
-Mr. Custis’ other farms, for the old gentleman was now 75 and, though
-active in improving his lands and crops, needed the assistance of his
-son-in-law in managing his business affairs. Lee returned to Texas in
-February 1856, and was unable to be home for Christmas that year. His
-loneliness is apparent in the letter he wrote to Mrs. Lee: “The time is
-approaching when I trust many of you will be assembled around the family
-hearth at dear Arlington, to celebrate another Christmas. Though absent,
-my heart will be in the midst of you, & I shall enjoy in imagination &
-memory, all that is going on. May nothing occur to mar or cloud the
-family fireside, & may each be able to look back with pride & pleasure
-at their deeds of the past year, & with confidence & hope to that in
-prospect. I can do nothing but hope & pray for you all.”
-
-
-DEATH OF MR. CUSTIS. Life at Arlington and for the father far away in
-Texas flowed on quietly during 1857. Although badly crippled by
-rheumatism, Mrs. Lee was able to manage the household and spend much
-time in her garden, while her father occupied himself as usual. But in
-the fall a telegram came to Lee, telling him of Mr. Custis’ death on
-October 10th. Letters from the family told him more of the sad event:
-how Mr. Custis had been ill of pneumonia only 4 days, how he had
-steadily failed, and how on the last day, after embracing his weeping
-daughter and grandchildren and asking to be remembered to his
-son-in-law, had passed away while his rector said the prayers for the
-dying. His last wish had been to be buried by the side of his wife, and
-to that spot his coffin had been borne by the family servants, followed
-by the Lees and a host of relatives and friends.
-
- [Illustration: _Mrs. Robert E. Lee._ This engraving was probably
- made from a photograph taken sometime after 1865.]
-
-
-LEE BECOMES MASTER OF ARLINGTON. It was a saddened household to which
-Lee returned as soon as he could, made more so because Mrs. Lee’s
-illness had progressed to where she was almost incapable of getting
-about the house. He found it necessary to take an extended leave in
-order to take on the management of Mr. Custis’ properties and, as his
-executor, to carry out the terms of his will. This provided that after
-outstanding debts had been paid and legacies given each of the Lee
-girls, the farms were to go to the boys, although Mrs. Lee would have
-possession of Arlington until her death, after which it would pass to
-Custis Lee. All the slaves were to be freed within 5 years.
-
-A large debt had to be paid off before anything else could be done, and
-Lee applied himself to making the farms as productive as possible by
-putting more land under cultivation and planting larger crops. For a
-time, it seemed that it would be impossible for him ever to discharge
-his obligations satisfactorily, but he could still hide his
-discouragement from his children, as when in the autumn of 1858 he came
-upon one of his daughters saying a tearful goodbye to a friend, and said
-cheerfully to the weeping girls: “No tears at Arlington, no tears.”
-Fortunately, by the summer of 1859 he could see some improvement in the
-situation, although much remained to be done.
-
-
-JOHN BROWN’S RAID AND THE IMPENDING CRISIS. One morning in October 1859,
-a young lieutenant, J. E. B. Stuart, who had been a guest at Arlington
-several times, came with orders for Lee to report at once to the
-Secretary of War. There he learned of John Brown’s raid on Harpers Ferry
-and was directed to take command of the forces being sent to quell the
-uprising. This was soon accomplished, and in a short while Lee was home
-again.
-
-Affairs at Arlington were so encouraging that autumn, that Lee expected
-soon to rejoin his regiment in Texas. Therefore, he arranged to have his
-son, Custis, who was now in the Corps of Engineers, transferred to
-Washington where he could supervise the estate. Unlike many army
-officers, Lee had never been away long from his native State, and his
-months of hard work at Arlington had given him a sympathetic
-understanding of the problems faced by his kinsmen and fellow-planters
-and reaffirmed his belief that his first loyalty was to Virginia.
-
-These were his views when he went to Texas in February 1860, and they
-remained unchanged as the discord between the North and South grew more
-intense. Uneasily, he observed the recklessness of the extremists on
-both sides, hoping always that the Union he loved would be preserved.
-Texas seceded in February 1861, and Lee, who had been ordered to report
-to Washington, arrived home at Arlington a month later. “I met Col.
-Robert E. Lee at Gen. Scott’s office,” one of his army friends wrote in
-his diary, March 5th. “He feels badly at the prospect.” Probably all
-that Lee could tell his old friend was that if Virginia seceded he must
-follow her, and that all he could do was to await developments.
-
-
-LEE RESIGNS FROM THE UNITED STATES ARMY. While Lee watched, helpless,
-events moved rapidly. Fort Sumter was bombarded in April, and in a few
-days Lee heard that his own beloved Virginia had seceded. Great as was
-his pride in the Union, he did not believe that it should be preserved
-by force; moreover, he felt his first allegiance was to his State.
-Though his career be sacrificed and the lives and property of his
-children endangered, he believed he must do his duty as he saw it.
-
-Arlington blazed with lights Friday night, April 19,1861, and was filled
-with relations and friends anxiously discussing the recent events.
-Finding it impossible to think about his problem amid the excitement,
-Colonel Lee went outside and paced back and forth under the trees while
-he pondered his future course. Still undecided, he returned to the house
-and went up to his bedroom. Downstairs, Mrs. Lee and the others waited
-anxiously. Overhead, they could hear Lee’s footsteps as he paced the
-floor, stopping only when he knelt to pray. It was after midnight when
-he finally arrived at a decision and sat down to write his resignation
-from the United States Army. That done, he came down with it in his hand
-to where his wife was waiting. “Well, Mary,” he said quietly, “the
-question is settled. Here is my letter of resignation, and a letter I
-have written to General Scott.”
-
- [Illustration: _“Arlington House” as it appeared a few years before
- the Civil War._ From a sketch by Benson J. Lossing.]
-
-
-THE LEES LEAVE ARLINGTON. Monday morning, Lee said goodbye to his family
-and left for Richmond. Before him were the long, hard years of a bitter
-war from which he would gain unfading glory. But never again would he be
-sheltered by the friendly roof of his old home at Arlington, and only
-once would he have a glimpse of it, and then from a passing train,
-several years after the war.
-
- [Illustration: _A corner of the drawing room, 1956._]
-
- [Illustration: _General Robert E. Lee in 1862._ U. S. Army Signal
- Corps photograph.]
-
-In view of the strategic location of Arlington, Lee urged his wife to go
-to a place of safety, but no preparations had been made to leave when
-word reached Mrs. Lee, early in May, that the Federal forces were soon
-to move into Virginia. Then all was excitement as the family portraits
-were taken from their frames and, with the plate and the most valuable
-Washington relics, sent off for safekeeping. Curtains and carpets were
-packed away in the attic, books and engravings put in closets, and the
-china stored in boxes in the cellar. Most of the furniture had to be
-left behind, but this Mrs. Lee trusted she could recover later. When
-everything was in order, it was time to say farewell to the weeping
-servants, and to leave her home for what was to be the last time.
-
- [Illustration: THE ARLINGTON ESTATE IN 1860
- March 1950 MEM LM 7000
- High-resolution Map]
-
-
- LEGEND
- 1. “Arlington House”
- 2. Ice House
- 3. Stable
- 4. Outbuilding
- 5. Grave of Mary Randolph
- 6. Custis Graves
- 7. Gravel Pit
- 8. Slave Cabins
- 9. Chapel
- 10. Barn
- 11. Overseer’s House
- 12. Apple Orchard
- 13. Arlington Spring
- 14. Slave Cemetery
- 15. Road to Long Bridge
-
-
-
-
- _Arlington from 1861 to 1865_
-
-
-ARLINGTON OCCUPIED BY THE FEDERAL ARMY. Mrs. Lee had been gone only a
-few days when the Federal Army crossed the river and occupied the
-heights opposite the National Capital. Overnight, what had been a quiet
-country estate was transformed into a vast military encampment. New
-roads were cut through the woods and much of it felled to open fields of
-fire for the earthen forts being built a short distance west of the
-house. Guards were posted to protect the house, and when the commanding
-general learned that many articles nevertheless were being stolen, he
-sent the Washington relics, which had been stored in the cellar, to the
-Patent Office for safekeeping, and then established his headquarters
-inside the mansion. Inevitably, the estate suffered greatly, though
-strong efforts were made to prevent wanton destruction, particularly of
-the fine old trees.
-
-
-LEE BECOMES THE HERO OF THE SOUTH. While Arlington was blighted by grim
-war, its former master was engaged in mobilizing the defenses of his
-native State. Before long he was military adviser to the President of
-the Confederacy, Jefferson Davis, and successively commander of the Army
-of Northern Virginia and general in chief of all the Confederate armies.
-The qualities developed by his years in the army and his home life were
-the same that now made him the military champion of the South and its
-greatest hero. His self-discipline rarely deserted him, and his deep
-religious beliefs gave him a humility and simplicity sufficient to
-withstand the greatest discouragements. Even though the odds were
-against him, his splendid presence on the field of battle and his
-kindliness and courtesy to all regardless of rank won him the devotion
-of his officers and men, while his brilliant military leadership gave
-hope and fighting spirit to the entire South. Always he was the knightly
-Christian gentleman, humane and magnanimous whether in victory or
-defeat.
-
- [Illustration: _East front of “Arlington House” in 1864._ From the
- photograph by Brady in the National Archives.]
-
- [Illustration: _Robert E. Lee in the full dress of a Confederate
- General._ From the original photograph made in 1863 by Minnis and
- Cowell, Richmond. U. S. Army Signal Corps photograph.]
-
-
-THE NATIONAL CEMETERY ESTABLISHED AT ARLINGTON, 1864. Early in 1862, the
-army moved away from Arlington for service in the field, but the mansion
-continued to be used as a headquarters. In 1864, the Government levied a
-tax on the Arlington estate. Because Mrs. Lee was unable to appear
-personally to pay the tax as stipulated, payment through her agent was
-refused and the property sold at public auction. In June of that year
-the first burials were made in 200 acres set aside as a national
-cemetery. Work was begun at once to restore the former natural beauty of
-the grounds, and by the end of the war almost all the scars caused by
-its military occupation had been erased. Only the long rows of white
-headboards gleaming among the trees and the desolate house now used only
-for the cemetery office bespoke the bitter strife that had wrought such
-a profound change at Arlington.
-
-
-
-
- _Arlington from 1865 to the Present_
-
-
-LEE’S INFLUENCE HELPS TO RESTORE THE SOUTH AFTER THE WAR. The splendid
-leadership which Lee had given his people during the war did not cease
-at Appomattox. As president of Washington College (afterwards Washington
-and Lee University), he devoted himself to restoring the South
-culturally, economically, and politically. Magnanimous in peace as in
-war, he urged his countrymen to forswear hatred and make the best of
-their situation. By his advice and example he did much to bring about
-the true restoration of the Union, not by force, but by the immeasurably
-stronger bonds of reconciliation and a common loyalty.
-
-For a time General Lee hoped to regain possession of Arlington for his
-wife, but he died in 1870 without having recovered it. Mrs. Lee died 3
-years later, and her son Custis then took legal action to obtain his
-inheritance. In 1882, the case was finally decided in his favor by the
-Supreme Court of the United States, but since thousands of soldiers had
-been buried at Arlington, Custis Lee accepted the offer of the
-Government to buy the property for $150,000.
-
-
-ARLINGTON BECOMES FAMOUS AS THE FORMER HOME OF GENERAL LEE. Originally
-“Arlington House” had been famous for its associations with George
-Washington; but after the Civil War it became even more widely known as
-the former home of General Lee. Though its rooms were empty, thousands
-from all over the country came to see it each year because of the
-universal admiration for its former master. It was in response to this
-sentiment that Representative Louis C. Cramton, of Michigan, sponsored
-the legislation passed by Congress in 1925 which authorized the
-restoration of the mansion as a national memorial.
-
-
-RESTORATION OF THE MANSION. The project of restoring and refurnishing
-the mansion was begun by the War Department in 1928. Structural changes
-made since 1861 were removed and the house refurnished as nearly as
-possible as when occupied by the Lee and Custis families. The original
-furnishings having long since been scattered or lost, few could be
-returned to their old setting, but copies were made of furniture and
-portraits known to have been at Arlington and pieces appropriate to the
-period procured. By 1933, when the mansion was transferred to the
-National Park Service of the Department of the Interior, the major
-portion of the work had been finished. However, the work of restoring
-the mansion to its original condition is a continuing process, as
-structural changes based on historical research are made and more of the
-original furnishings are identified and acquired.
-
- [Illustration: _Robert E. Lee in 1869 when President of Washington
- College, Lexington, Va._ From the Brady photograph, U. S. Army
- Signal Corps.]
-
-
-
-
- _Guide to the House and Grounds_
-
-
-THE OLD ARLINGTON ESTATE. Arlington was but one of several estates
-totaling more than 15,000 acres owned by George Washington Parke Custis,
-father-in-law of General Lee. Since the former’s income was largely
-derived from two large farms on the Pamunkey River in New Kent County,
-Va., he kept Arlington mainly as a gentleman’s country estate after the
-English fashion. The greater part of Arlington was taken up by “the
-Park,” a virgin woodland of ancient oaks and beautiful groves of walnut,
-chestnut, and elm trees, extending from the Georgetown and Alexandria
-Road at the foot of the hill clear to the western edge of the estate.
-
-On the level land lying between the road and Potomac River was “the
-Farm,” consisting of an orchard and several large cultivated fields and
-pastures. Here was grown most of the grain and vegetables required by
-the Arlington household and the large number of slaves, the surplus
-being sold in the Washington markets. In the southeast corner of the
-farm was the Arlington landing, where the barge which hauled produce to
-market was kept, as well as the schooner _Lady of the Lake_, used to
-carry goods to and from the distant farms. Here also docked the
-steamboats _Arlington Belle_ and the _G. W. P. Custis_, which annually
-ferried thousands from the city to the famed Arlington Spring, for half
-a century a favorite picnic spot for Georgetown and Washington
-residents. For their convenience the hospitable owner erected pavilions
-for dining and dancing, requiring only that no liquor be used. Custis
-considered himself primarily a farmer, and spent most of each day riding
-or walking about the estate supervising the work being done. After he
-died in 1857 and the management of the estate was taken over by Col.
-Robert E. Lee, the area under cultivation was considerably enlarged.
-
-Arlington originally had been part of a tract of 6,000 acres granted in
-1669 by Governor William Berkeley of Virginia to a ship’s captain, named
-Robert Howsing, in payment for transporting settlers to the colony.
-Howsing soon sold his grant to John Alexander, after whom Alexandria,
-Va., is named, reportedly for six hogsheads of tobacco. The land
-remained in the Alexander family until 1778, when John Parke Custis
-bought 1,100 acres from Gerard Alexander with the intention of
-establishing a family seat. He died, however, before he had done
-anything with the property, whereupon it passed to his son, George
-Washington Parke Custis, who developed it as described.
-
-
-THE MANSION. For all its imposing appearance when seen at a distance,
-the real size of the mansion is not apparent until seen close at hand.
-The central part of the building is 2 stories high, 60 feet wide, and 40
-feet deep. One-story wings, each 40 feet long and 25 feet wide, extend
-to the north and south, making the length of the entire building 140
-feet. In the rear are still lower wings for service and a conservatory.
-
- [Illustration: _“Arlington House” from a sketch made before 1861,
- though not published until 1875._]
-
-Although the wings with their tall recessed windows and balustrade are
-quite pleasing, the magnificent portico is the salient architectural
-feature of the mansion, one of the earliest and best-known examples of
-Greek Doric porticos in America. This extends 25 feet from the front of
-the house and has 8 columns 23 feet high and somewhat over 5 feet thick
-at the base. Early authorities differ as to whether the portico was
-derived from the smaller, well-proportioned Greek temple at Athens known
-as the Theseum, or the larger, more imposing temple of Neptune at
-Paestum, Italy. There is no doubt, however, as to the effectiveness of
-the architectural style chosen, for no other would have had the strength
-and massiveness necessary to make the building impressive when viewed
-from across the river. Yet for all its simplicity and solidity, the
-proportions of the mansion are so refined as to make it an outstanding
-example of Greek Classic Revival architecture of the early nineteenth
-century.
-
-The building is of the most solid construction throughout. All the walls
-and most of the foundations are of brick, as are the columns of the
-portico. All of the brickwork exposed to the weather is protected by
-hard stucco plaster scored with lines in imitation of cut stone. Joists,
-studs, and rafters are of hewn timber and are neatly mortised together
-or pinned with wooden pegs, scarcely any nails being used. Doors,
-cornices, and other woodwork are of pine. The main roof is supported by
-great barnlike trusses which span the entire width of the center section
-and originally was covered with wooden shingles, now replaced by slate.
-At one time the portico columns were painted to look like marble, but
-later were made white for better contrast with the warm buff or ochre
-color of the remainder of the house. Well constructed to begin with, the
-deterioration inevitable in any old building was entirely corrected when
-the War Department restored the building. Careful maintenance now
-assures a long and useful future for the Custis-Lee Mansion.
-
-
-THE CONSERVATORY. Because flowers were important in the life of the
-Arlington household, it is most appropriate that present-day visitors
-enter the mansion through the conservatory. Both Mrs. Lee and her
-mother, Mrs. Custis, were devoted to their gardens and used flowers for
-decorations throughout the house. Called the “conservatory,” or
-“greenhouse,” and sometimes the “camellia house,” by those who lived
-there, this was the room in which they grew their favorite flowers and
-plants during the winter months or started young ones for transplanting
-outdoors. The floor of the conservatory has been restored, but the
-woodwork and most of the windows are original.
-
- [Illustration: _The conservatory._]
-
-
-THE OFFICE AND STUDY. The management of a large estate like Arlington
-required an office where business could be transacted and records kept,
-and this long, narrow room was used as such by both Mr. Custis and
-Colonel Lee. Here the former worked on his literary efforts and carried
-on an extensive correspondence concerning agricultural matters and the
-life of General Washington. In his old age Mr. Custis also used it as
-his “painting room,” for in 1852 he wrote to a fellow artist: “I have an
-excellent studio fitted up in the South wing of the House, with a first
-rate light, ... a stove & everything comfortable.”
-
- [Illustration: MEASURED DRAWINGS OF THE MANSION]
-
- [Illustration: _The office and study._]
-
-The desk in the corner was used by Lee during the years 1848 to 1852,
-while supervising the construction of Fort Carroll, near Baltimore, Md.
-Also of interest is his traveling chess set and the plain pine stand
-which Mrs. Lee gave to her personal maid, Selina Gray, whose descendants
-returned it to the house.
-
-
-THE DINING ROOM. “The House will be a very showy handsome building when
-completed,” wrote a lady visiting Arlington in 1804. “The room we were
-in was 24 feet square & 18 feet high,” she continued. No doubt she was
-describing the present dining room, for here the Custises entertained
-their numerous guests before the large central section of the house was
-built. Later, Mr. Custis used it as a studio, and after his wife’s
-death, in 1853, it became Mrs. Lee’s “morning room,” where she answered
-her mail and managed the affairs of her household. Here Mrs. Lee was
-engaged in copying a portrait of her infant grandson when, in May 1861,
-she was informed that the Federal Army was soon to occupy Arlington and
-that she must leave at once.
-
-The dining room has been restored to its earliest use. Most of the
-woodwork and windows are original, while the molding, plaster, and the
-beautiful door to the study are entirely so. An interesting
-architectural feature is the great semicircular arch at the north end of
-the room, reminiscent of the villas Architect George Hadfield saw in
-Italy during the years he studied there.
-
-
-THE DRAWING ROOM. The drawing room remained unfinished for many years,
-not even being plastered, probably because Mr. Custis lacked the
-necessary funds. During these years it was known as the “big room” and
-in it were stored old furniture and the finished canvasses of Mr.
-Custis. On rainy days the Lee children often used it as a playroom. When
-Colonel Lee went to Texas, in 1855, he left instructions for its
-“renovation”—plastering the walls, installing a crystal chandelier, and
-painting the walls and woodwork. He also ordered marble mantels for the
-fireplaces. Mrs. Lee supervised the progress of the work in her
-husband’s absence, and the result must have been most pleasing, for a
-young lady who saw it in 1856 describes it as “a beautiful & noble
-drawing room, very handsomely furnished and hung too with paintings.”
-
- [Illustration: _The dining room._]
-
-The most valuable paintings were taken away by Mrs. Lee in 1861, but
-copies have been made for the restoration of this room. The sofa is
-original, as is the music cabinet near the piano. The woodwork and walls
-are finished off as Colonel Lee had them done in 1855.
-
-
-THE HALL. A long hall extending from the front to the back was a common
-feature of Virginia houses of the period, because of the cooling draft
-of air it provided during hot weather. For this reason it was usually
-furnished with sofas and chairs and used as a summer parlor. The Lees
-and Custises would sit and converse here on warm summer evenings, or
-perhaps read the latest English novel aloud to each other. “The puss has
-appropriated the sofa in the parlor to himself, while I occupy that in
-the hall,” Mr. Custis observed humorously in a letter to his wife in
-1831.
-
-Characteristic of the Greek temples from which the mansion was adapted
-are the tall narrow doors at each end of the hall. The graceful round
-arches at the west end are typical of George Hadfield’s architectural
-work. High on the walls at this end are the spirited hunting frescoes
-painted by Mr. Custis himself. Elk and deer horns represent the
-collection of antlers begun by him when a lad at Mount Vernon. Suspended
-from the ceiling in the middle of the hall is a replica of the famous
-Mount Vernon lantern, the original of which hung here for more than 50
-years. On the walls are copies of portraits once at Arlington, including
-one of George Washington painted by Mr. Custis.
-
- [Illustration: _The drawing room._]
-
-
-THE FAMILY PARLOR. From an early date three arches have divided the
-large room north of the hall into a family parlor and a small dining
-room. Originally, there were doors and a fanlight in the center arch,
-while those on the outside were filled in with lath and plaster,
-probably to make the rooms easier to heat. The twin Carrara marble
-mantels are original, and are said to have been ordered by Mr. Custis
-from Italy.
-
-The family parlor was the favorite gathering place of the Lees and
-Custises, who entertained most of their guests in it even after the
-drawing room was completed. Here the family passed the winter evenings
-reading or listening to Mr. Custis’ interesting stories of his boyhood
-at Mount Vernon. Each Christmas it was the family custom to kindle the
-great yule log in the fireplace with the remains of that from the
-previous year. The wedding of Mary Custis and Robert E. Lee took place
-in this room.
-
- [Illustration: _The family parlor._]
-
-
-THE FAMILY DINING ROOM. Small and informal, the family dining room was
-used as such from the time the center section of the house was built
-until the Lees departed in 1861. Arlington was noted for its
-hospitality, and seldom was there a meal at which some guests were not
-present. When he was at home, it was Colonel Lee’s custom to gather
-rosebuds in the garden each morning and place one beside the plate of
-each of his daughters, the youngest getting the smallest bud, and so on
-up to the eldest.
-
-Over the mantel hangs a portrait of Mr. Custis, copied from the original
-in the Corcoran Gallery of Art, Washington, D. C. On the mantel is a
-statuette, “The Three Graces,” said to have been imported from Italy by
-Mr. Custis about 1855. Among the dishes in the cupboard are two custard
-cups, a Wedgewood cream pitcher, and several other pieces which were
-originally at Arlington.
-
-
-THE UPPER HALL. The simple staircase which ascends to the upper hall is
-typical of those in houses of classic revival style of architecture,
-since their temple prototypes had no second floor and hence no stairs.
-That the one in the mansion was carefully planned by the architect,
-however, is shown by the ingenious way in which one window serves to
-light the stair landing and the closet off it, as well as the hall
-below.
-
-Like the one below, the upper hall was originally furnished with several
-long sofas for use as a sitting room during warm weather. At such times
-the lower part of the great window at the west end was opened wide in
-order to increase the movement of air.
-
- [Illustration: _The family dining room as seen from the family
- parlor._]
-
- [Illustration: _The family dining room._]
-
-
-THE LEE BEDROOM. This pleasant room was occupied by Mrs. Lee before and
-after her marriage. According to tradition, six of her seven children
-were born in the small dressing room on its west side. Mrs. Lee’s toilet
-and serving case, resembling a miniature lectern and bearing her
-initials “M. C. L.,” sits on the bureau next to the door of the dressing
-room. On the mantel is an engraving of Mrs. Lee made at Arlington in
-1858. This is believed to be the room in which Colonel Lee arrived at
-his decision to resign his commission in the United States Army.
-
-
-THE BOYS’ BEDROOM. This bedroom was occupied by the three Lee
-sons—Custis, Robert, and William Henry Fitzhugh, otherwise known as
-“Rooney.” The floor, mantel, woodwork, and plaster cornice in this room
-are original. The mahogany washstand was at Arlington prior to 1861.
-
- [Illustration: _The main staircase._]
-
- [Illustration: _The bedroom of Colonel and Mrs. Lee._]
-
-Next to the boys’ room is a small chamber originally divided by a
-partition into dressing rooms for the adjoining bedrooms. In 1857, Mrs.
-Lee had the partition removed and a doorway made into the hall in order
-to provide more space for guests. Since the room was too small for a
-bed, a cot was set up whenever additional sleeping quarters were needed.
-The washstand and the Duncan Phyfe side chair are original Arlington
-pieces.
-
-
-ROOM OF MARY LEE AND “MARKIE.” Mary Lee, eldest of the Lee daughters,
-occupied this room from her earliest days. Occasionally, she shared it
-with one of her sisters, but more often with Martha Williams, known
-affectionately as “Markie,” a cousin of both Colonel and Mrs. Lee.
-Markie’s mother died in 1843, and her father was killed 3 years later
-during the war with Mexico. Although Markie lived with her grandparents
-in Georgetown, she was at Arlington so much of the time as to be almost
-a member of the household, leading another guest to observe, in 1856,
-that “Markie’s room commands a beautiful view of the river & of
-Washington.” Markie and her father were both talented artists and
-several of their paintings embellished the house.
-
- [Illustration: _Miss Mary Lee’s room._]
-
-
-THE LEE GIRLS’ BEDROOM. This large, sunny bedroom was occupied by Agnes,
-Annie, and Mildred Lee. Although it is not one of the original Arlington
-furnishings, the miniature mahogany bureau on the table against the west
-wall is noteworthy as having been owned by Anne Hill Carter Lee, mother
-of Robert E. Lee.
-
-
-THE PLAYROOM. The small room next to the girls’ bedroom served various
-purposes. When the girls were young it was their playroom. Later it was
-probably a dressing room, as indicated by the original shelves and coat
-pegs. It was also used by Annie Lee for the Sunday school she conducted
-for the children of the family servants. According to tradition, the
-miniature secretary at the back of the room was a childhood possession
-of Mr. Custis’ sister, Nellie, who gave it to Mrs. Lee when she was
-little. Later it was given by Lee to his goddaughter, Nannie Randolph
-Heth.
-
- [Illustration: _The playroom._]
-
- [Illustration: _Custis bedroom._]
-
-
-THE OUTER HALL. Visitors return to the first floor by the steep service
-stairway, intended primarily for the convenience of members of the
-family and servants. Like the second floor hall, the stairwell is
-painted as it was originally—a light peach. Beyond is the outer hall,
-originally the serving pantry for the nearby dining room. Here in its
-old location stands the walnut cupboard to which each night at bedtime
-Colonel Lee is said to have come for a glass of milk, brought there from
-the dairy room under the south wing.
-
-
-THE CUSTIS ROOMS. An inner hall gave private access to the two small
-rooms in the north wing occupied by Mr. and Mrs. Custis in the years
-before the main part of the house was completed. Later they were
-probably used for guest rooms until such time as the size of the Lee
-family and the Custises’ advancing years made it advisable for them to
-reoccupy their old suite. In the larger room is the bed Custis bought
-about 1805; in the smaller room, under the window, is a small mahogany
-candle stand once owned by Martha Washington and later part of the
-Arlington furnishings.
-
-The wooden mantelpiece in the sitting room is the oldest one in the
-house, and its disproportionate size indicates that it was made for the
-large unused chimney breast in the inner hall.
-
- [Illustration: _The wooden mantelpiece in the Custis bedroom is the
- oldest in the house, dating from its earliest years._]
-
-
-THE SCHOOLROOM. This may have been Mrs. Lee’s bedroom when she was a
-little girl and her parents occupied the adjoining rooms. After the main
-part of the house was built, it was used as a sewing room and a
-schoolroom for the Lee children and those of the house servants. The old
-terrestrial globe is one of the most interesting original objects in the
-mansion, having been found tucked away in the attic under the eaves by
-workmen repairing the roof some years ago. The small pine table on which
-it stands is also an original piece. Over the globe is a framed
-photograph of Comdr. Sidney Smith Lee, brother of Robert E. Lee. The
-walls and woodwork, like those of most of the rooms, have been restored
-to their original color.
-
- [Illustration: _The schoolroom._]
-
- [Illustration: _The winter kitchen._]
-
-
-THE WINTER KITCHEN. The huge fireplace in the winter kitchen under the
-north wing helped to warm the rooms above during the cold months of the
-year. The portion of the room beyond the chimney was used as a laundry.
-
-
-THE WINE CELLAR. A quarterly return from one of Mr. Custis’ estates,
-dated 1822, lists “2 hogsheads of cider, 2 barrels of A[pple] Brandy” as
-having been sent to Arlington. It was probably stored in this cool, dark
-room, together with the scuppernong wine made from grapes grown along
-the edge of the garden north of the mansion. Here also were kept the
-choicer vintages used for entertaining.
-
-
-THE SERVANTS’ QUARTERS. Two low buildings which harmonize
-architecturally with the main house form two sides of the court in the
-rear of the mansion. That on the north had a summer kitchen in the
-basement, its other rooms being occupied by the family servants. Perhaps
-because dampness made it unhealthy, the basement was filled in some
-years before 1861, but it is now restored to its original condition. The
-well between this building and the house is original, though the stone
-coping and roof are a restoration.
-
- [Illustration: _The north servants’ quarters and the well._]
-
-The corresponding building to the south was familiarly known as
-“Selina’s House,” because its western end was occupied by Mrs. Lee’s
-personal maid, Selina Gray, and her family. The middle room was the
-smokehouse, and on the east end was the storeroom where nonperishable
-household provisions were kept. The small panels over the doors were
-originally painted by Mr. Custis, the one in the center depicting
-General Washington’s war horse and the others, American eagles. Old
-photographs show similar panels decorating the north quarters, but these
-have long since weathered away.
-
- [Illustration: _The Custis-Lee Mansion as seen from the west._]
-
-
-THE GARDENS. The flower garden originally occupied the large level plot
-south of the mansion. Gravel paths divided the area into flower beds,
-and in the center stood a wooden arbor almost covered with yellow
-jasmine and honeysuckle. Mr. Custis had laid out the garden in his early
-years, but the responsibility for its care was soon assumed by Mrs.
-Custis, who loved flowers. Mrs. Lee acquired her mother’s interest in
-gardening and had her own flower beds, while each of her daughters, as
-soon as they were old enough, were given small plots in which to grow
-their favorite blooms. Roses of different species predominated, the
-Cherokee being a favorite of Mrs. Custis’, but there were also many
-other kinds of flowers and plants. It was the family custom to exchange
-seeds and plants with friends and relatives, thus adding to the variety
-of lovely blooms at Arlington.
-
-North of the mansion, on the site of the present rose garden, was the
-“kitchen garden” where the vegetables used by the household were grown.
-Here were strawberry and asparagus beds, tomato vines and many other
-vegetables, as well as a number of fruit trees. The gardens were very
-important to the Lees, and in June of 1860 Robert E. Lee wrote to his
-daughter Annie, saying, “I was very glad to receive, my Sweet Annie,
-your letter ... to hear that the garden, trees, and hill at Arlington
-looked beautiful....” The building at the north end is not an original
-structure, though it stands on the site of an earlier outbuilding.
-
-
-THE GRAVE OF MARY RANDOLPH. The grave of Mary Randolph, believed to have
-been Mrs. Lee’s godmother, is a short distance from the northeast corner
-of the mansion, down the Custis walk which here approximates the course
-of the old carriage driveway. Mrs. Randolph was related to both the
-Custises and the Lees and was well known in the early part of the
-nineteenth century as the author of an extremely popular cookbook, _The
-Virginia Housewife_. She and her husband, David Meade Randolph, were
-often at Arlington, the latter being the inventor of a special
-waterproof stucco used on part of the exterior of the mansion. Mrs.
-Randolph died in 1828 and was the first person buried at Arlington. The
-ivy growing on the brick enclosure about her tomb is said to have been
-planted by Mr. and Mrs. Custis.
-
-
-THE CUSTIS GRAVES. A few hundred yards southwest of the mansion,
-Doubleday Walk passes a small plot enclosed by an iron fence. Here
-beneath the beautiful trees in the spot selected by Mrs. Lee are the
-graves of her mother and father. Colonel Lee ordered the marble
-monuments from New York, specifying that a wreath of lilies of the
-valley and heartsease should be carved on the one for Mrs. Custis’
-grave. He also supervised their erection.
-
-
-
-
- _Visitor Service and Facilities_
-
-
-The mansion is located in Arlington National Cemetery and is reached by
-way of Arlington Memorial Bridge. Bus service is available via Arlington
-Memorial Bridge to the main gate of the cemetery. Automobiles use the
-same approach and may be parked near the mansion. Visiting hours,
-October through March, are from 9:30 a. m. to 4:30 p. m.; April through
-September, 9:30 a. m. to 6 p. m. There is a small admission charge,
-which is waived for children and educational groups.
-
-
-
-
- _Administration_
-
-
-Custis-Lee Mansion National Memorial is administered by the National
-Capital Parks of the National Park Service, United States Department of
-the Interior. Other national memorials administered by the National
-Capital Parks are: The Lincoln Memorial, the Thomas Jefferson Memorial,
-the Washington Monument, the Lincoln Museum, and the House Where Lincoln
-Died. Communications should be addressed to the Superintendent, National
-Capital Parks, Interior Building, Washington 25, D. C.
-
-
-
-
- _Suggested Readings_
-
-
- Alexander, E. P. _Military Memoirs of a Confederate._ Charles
- Scribner’s Sons, New York, N. Y. 1907.
-
- Custis, George Washington Parke. _The Recollections and Private
- Memoirs of Washington._ Derby and Jackson, New York, N. Y. 1860.
-
- Craven, Avery (Ed.). _To Markie: The Letters of Robert E. Lee to
- Martha Custis._ Harvard University Press, Cambridge, Mass. 1934.
-
- Fishwick, Marshall. _General Lee’s Photographer._ University of North
- Carolina Press, Chapel Hill, N. C. 1954.
-
- Freeman, Douglas Southall. _R. E. Lee: A Biography._ 4 Vols.
- Scribner’s Sons, New York, N. Y.
-
- Jones, J. W. _Personal Reminiscences, Anecdotes, and Letters of Robert
- E. Lee._ D. Appleton & Co., New York, N. Y. 1875.
-
- Lee, Capt. Robert E. _Recollections and Letters of Gen. Robert E.
- Lee._ Garden City Publishing Co., New York, N. Y. 1924.
-
- Lowther, Minnie Kendall. _Mount Vernon—Its Children, Its Romances, Its
- Allied Families and Mansions._ John C. Winston Co., Philadelphia, Pa.
- 1932.
-
- MacDonald, Rose Mortimer. _Mrs. Robert E. Lee._ Ginn & Co., New York,
- N. Y.
-
- Tobert, Allice Coyle. _Eleanor Calvert and Her Circle._
- William-Frederick Press, New York, N. Y. 1950.
-
-
-
-
- NATIONAL PARK SERVICE
- HISTORICAL HANDBOOK SERIES
-
-
-(Price lists of National Park Service publications may be obtained from
- the Superintendent of Documents,
- Washington 25, D.C.)
-
-
- Antietam
- Bandelier
- Chalmette
- Chickamauga and Chattanooga Battlefields
- Custer Battlefield
- Custis-Lee Mansion, the Robert E. Lee Memorial
- Fort Laramie
- Fort McHenry
- Fort Necessity
- Fort Pulaski
- Fort Raleigh
- Fort Sumter
- George Washington Birthplace
- Gettysburg
- Guilford Courthouse
- Hopewell Village
- Independence
- Jamestown, Virginia
- Kings Mountain
- The Lincoln Museum and the House Where Lincoln Died
- Manassas (Bull Run)
- Montezuma Castle
- Morristown, a Military Capital of the Revolution
- Ocmulgee
- Petersburg Battlefields
- Saratoga
- Scotts Bluff
- Shiloh
- Statue of Liberty
- Vanderbilt Mansion
- Vicksburg
- Yorktown
-
-
- [Illustration: Sketch of Robert E. Lee]
-
-
-
-
- Transcriber’s Notes
-
-
-—Silently corrected a few typos.
-
-—Retained publication information from the printed edition: this eBook
- is public-domain in the country of publication.
-
-—In the text versions only, text in italics is delimited by
- _underscores_.
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
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