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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d7b82bc --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,4 @@ +*.txt text eol=lf +*.htm text eol=lf +*.html text eol=lf +*.md text eol=lf diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6312041 --- /dev/null +++ b/LICENSE.txt @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements, +metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be +in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES. + +Procedures for determining public domain status are described in +the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org. + +No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in +jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize +this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright +status under the laws that apply to them. diff --git a/README.md b/README.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d1c786e --- /dev/null +++ b/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,2 @@ +Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for +eBook #50600 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/50600) diff --git a/old/50600-0.txt b/old/50600-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 4d418b4..0000000 --- a/old/50600-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3425 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg eBook, How to Make and Set Traps, by J. Harrington -Keene - - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - - - - -Title: How to Make and Set Traps - Including Hints on How to Trap Moles, Weasels, Otter, Rats, Squirrels and Birds; Also How to Cure Skins - - -Author: J. Harrington Keene - - - -Release Date: December 3, 2015 [eBook #50600] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - - -***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HOW TO MAKE AND SET TRAPS*** - - -E-text prepared by Craig Kirkwood, Demian Katz, and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team (http://www.pgdp.net) from page images generously made -available by the Villanova University Digital Library -(http://digital.library.villanova.edu) - - - -Note: Project Gutenberg also has an HTML version of this - file which includes the original illustrations. - See 50600-h.htm or 50600-h.zip: - (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/50600/50600-h/50600-h.htm) - or - (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/50600/50600-h.zip) - - - Images of the original pages are available through - Villanova University Digital Library. See - http://digital.library.villanova.edu/Item/vudl:296237 - - -Transcriber’s note: - - Text enclosed by underscores is in italics (_italics_). - - Text enclosed by equal signs is in bold face (=bold=). - - Figure numbers are not consecutive, with some numbers missing and - other numbers duplicated. - - An additional transcriber’s note is at the end. - - - - - -HOW TO MAKE AND SET TRAPS - -Including Hints on How to Trap Moles, Weasels, Otter, Rats, Squirrels -and Birds. - -Also How to Cure Skins. - -Copiously Illustrated. - -by - -J. HARRINGTON KEENE. - - - - - - - -New York: -Frank Tousey, Publisher, -24 Union Square. - -Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1902, by -Frank Tousey, -in the Office of the Librarian of Congress at Washington, D. C. - - -HOW TO MAKE AND SET TRAPS. - - - - -I. THE MOLE. - - -Dirt has been defined as “matter in the wrong place.” It is very -useful, and, indeed, indispensable, as earth in a garden, but decidedly -unbecoming and dirty when on your face or clothes. In a similar way, -most of the creatures termed “vermin” are in themselves very graceful -and beautiful specimens of the Creator’s handiwork, but when they -encroach on man’s paths of progress and improvement they become -“vermin,” and though all life should be looked upon as a fearful and -wonderful thing, not to be lightly taken from its possessor, they are -then justifiably slain. - -The little gentleman in black velvet--the mole--is a lovely-coated -little fellow, possessing many virtues, such as courage, industry, and -parental affection, but when he once gets into your father’s garden, -which has probably cost money and exceeding care to render it neat -and productive, our little friend is transformed into one of the most -troublesome of “vermin,” and must be relentlessly sacrificed by the -trapper. If this is not done, Master Mole will himself sacrifice the -crops in his efforts to get at the worms, which, as the late Charles -Darwin so conclusively showed, are one of the great regenerating forces -of the land’s fertility. - -Look at rats again. See how lithe and agile they are, how fond of their -young, and provident in storing food for future consumption; yet they -are without a redeeming excellency if, like dirt, they are in the wrong -place--as they are, by the way, pretty certain to be. - -Of the squirrel Mr. Ruskin, in his marvelously eloquent way, has said: -“Of all quadrupeds ... there is none so beautiful or so happy as the -squirrel. Innocent in all his ways, harmless in his food, playful as -a kitten, but without cruelty, and surpassing the dexterity of the -monkey, with the grace of a bird, the little dark-eyed miracle of the -forest goes from branch to branch more like a sunbeam than a living -thing. The chamois is slow to it, and the panther clumsy. It haunts -you, listens for you, hides from you, looks for you, loves you, as if -it were a plaything invented by the angel that walks by your children.” - -Alas! there is a reverse side to this beautiful word-picture of the -great art critic. The gamekeeper will tell you that mischievous Master -“Squiggy” is very fond of birds’ eggs--many a tiny wren, and many a -sweet-voiced blackbird has discovered this also--and that he above all -will often suck the dove-hued eggs of the pheasant. Much, therefore, as -I admire this little creature when he is in his native firtree, I shall -tell you how to catch him alive, so that he may be kept away from doing -harm. - -Again, the brilliant kingfisher, flashing by you like a beam of azure -light, is in his right place near the stickleback pond, but on my trout -river he is “vermin.” The same exposition of the properties of vermin -might be followed out in reference to all the creatures I intend to -hereafter teach you how to capture or destroy. - -So much by way of introduction, and now suppose, as I have above -referred to “the little gentleman in the velvet suit,” we begin with -him. Do not be alarmed at the few items of natural history I am going -to give you in reference to each “varmint.” It is better for you -to know about the funny little ways of the lower creation now than -wait till you are men, and perhaps unable to devote much time to the -acquisition of such knowledge. Besides, there is nothing mean or paltry -in such studies. Why, the great German Heber and our hardly less great -Sir John Lubbock have devoted their lives to ants and such small fry -till marvels of intelligence in these insects have been unfolded to -their wondering vision. Even the wise and mighty King Solomon did -not forget them. Do not despise small things because they are small, -therefore, for are we not ourselves as motes and specks of dust in the -sunbeam in the immensity of God? - -I most, however, return to the mole, or you may accuse me of preaching -a sermon when you were expecting to hear how to catch vermin. - -Well, the scientific name of the mole is Talpa Europæa, and its -distribution is all over Europe. France, Italy, Spain, Portugal, -Germany, Holland, Sweden, and Denmark alike produce it as well as our -own land. The main thing--or one of them--that arrests the attention -on first seeing the mole is the very hand-like fore paws. These -are attached to the body by a short forearm, and suggest immense -strength--which, as a matter of fact, they possess. They are used for -scooping the earth from before and throwing it on one side; and for -this purpose the claws are long and trenchant. The hind feet, which are -comparatively small, serve the purpose of throwing out the earth behind -with incredible quickness. The head also, being sharp-pointed, offers -no opposition to this boring through the soft soil, and the eyes, being -so tiny, are never injured by the soil through which the pointed snout -passes. - -For a long time people failed to discover that the mole possessed eyes, -so rudimentary and hidden are they. They are covered by the soft fur, -and it is to be presumed that as they are of little or no use in the -total darkness of subterranean passages, they serve only to apprise -their owner of the approach of light whenever it may find itself near -the surface of the ground. It sometimes has happened to me to find a -mole strayed from its habitation, I suppose, and on the surface of -the soil. From the experiment of putting an obstacle in front of it, -and its avoidance thereof, I have come to the conclusion that it can -see slightly, though it is evident when you dissect the head that the -organs of hearing are vastly more developed than those of sight. The -sense of smell is perhaps stronger than that of hearing--as one would -infer from the long, pointed, greyhound-like snout; and this should -be borne in mind when setting the trap. If indeed, in the case of any -animal, you are told that the sense of smell is well developed, handle -the ginsnare or trap as little as possible with the naked hand. There -is a distinctive odor in the human hand which animals, whether vermin -or not, seem instantly to recognize. - -[Illustration: Fig. 2.] - -Moles construct a fortress, or habitation, under a hillock or some such -convenient protection as a sort of central position, from which they -proceed outwards through various “runs” or roads in search of food -(see Fig. 2). This fortress has a dome of earth, which is beaten hard -by the creature, and so rendered strong and impervious to rain, snow, -dews, or frost. A in Fig. 2 represents the hollow center, which is also -dry and hard, whilst B B B signify the ramifying tunnels leading into -the galleries of the central fortress, and outwards to the tracts for -feeding and exploration, as well as to the nests of the various pairs -of sexes forming the community. Along these tracts the individuals -travel and obtain their livelihood, never stopping to gossip; for -if, indeed, one mole meets another by chance, one must turn out of -the way into the nearest alley, or there is a “row,” which generally -means death to the weaker--for, let me tell you, Mr. Talpa is a very -pugnacious little man when thwarted. - -Of course, you know that the food of the mole is chiefly comprised -of worms--and speaking of that reminds me of a method I once saw of -catching moles, which was cruel but very singular. I was fishing on the -Colne, near Wraysbury, and I noticed an old man in the field behind me -industriously going over the ground, and here and there drawing out a -live mole by means of what seemed a string. - -I laid down my rod and went over to him, and after a little persuasion -I got to understand the whole bag of tricks. His method was to dig -down to a fresh tunnel and “lay” a lobworm, threaded on a rather small -fish-hook tied on fine brass wire, covering in the hole with leaves -and dirt and securing the wire by a string to a stout peg. The mole, -being almost sure to return, would thus take the bait, and in most -cases get hooked in the mouth. This seems to me, however, a needlessly -cruel way of mole-catching when there are others quite as effectual and -practically painless, and I shall therefore not go any farther into the -particulars necessary for its practice. - -Moles are extremely voracious and, this being so, they crave and enjoy -large quantities of water. I have frequently watched moles descending -by a beaten run to the water--and, indeed, just opposite where I am -writing there is a tiny roadway from a mole hillock to the neighboring -ditch. Should a plentiful supply such as this not be handy, the little -animal sinks a well for himself, beating the interior hard and forming -quite a little shaft, which receives the rain and stores it. I came -across one some time ago which was quite a foot in depth and almost -full. - -I have said that there is a fortress usually built by a colony of -moles in the approximate form of Fig. 2, and so there is. The aim -of the mole-catcher should be if possible to find out where this -central position is and cut off retreat. I have seen the mole-catcher -in Windsor Park dig the moles out on finding out this metropolis of -moles--as it might be fitly called. - -It has been proved that immediately on anything very alarming -occurring, they forsake their explorations and flee into the citadel. -This is how it was done and who did it. - -Monsieur le Court, a French gentleman, very sensibly believing that -there was little else but horror and danger in the tumult and bloodshed -of the great French Revolution, fled from the court where he had waited -on and been the companion of the highest, and secluded himself in the -depth of the country to become the historian and friend of the humble -La Taupe, as the French term the mole. M. Geoffrey St. Hillaire visited -him, and together they watched their opportunity till one of the moles -had penetrated far from the fortress in search of food. - -Le Court then placed straws with little flags on the end out of the -ground at intervals in the passage behind the mole in such a way that -if the creature fled back again it would infallibly knock them down. -With a trumpet buried, leaving the mouth-piece out of the ground, he -blew a blast loud enough to shake the good-nature out of the best toy -of your acquaintance, and instantly one after the other, almost as fast -as a horse can trot, down went the little flags till the central home -was reached. The mole usually builds at the intersection of several of -the roads and not in the habitation. Its nest consists of fibers and -dried grass, straw, etc., and the young seldom number more than five. -Moles will sometimes take the water, but such instances are extremely -rare; there is no reason, however, why it should not be a good swimmer, -its front paws being so spatulous and strong. - -[Illustration: Fig. 3. Fig. 4.] - -Mole trapping is very seldom practiced, except by professionals, who -besides the blood money generally awarded on the production of each -mole’s tail, make a very nice little amount by selling the skins. Still -there is nothing difficult about mole catching, and the most stupid boy -could render himself successful if he observes a little and follows -the directions I am about to give. First, then as to tools, which are -indispensable when one is out for a day’s trap-setting. Fig. 3 shows -an implement which at A consists of an iron heavy spike which is used -for making holes for the insertion of the spring stick of the trap to -be described presently. B is the wooden haft--ash is as good as any; C -is a sort of spatula or little spade for digging into a mole run. Fig. -4 shows a light hatchet or a rather long handle for cutting hazel or -ash-spring sticks, pointing them, etc. - -[Illustration: Fig. 5.] - -Now as to the traps themselves. Fig. 5 shows the iron trap, usually -sold with galvanized uprights and claws. A indicates the spring which, -on the mole by placing its head in the circular orifice of B releasing -the latter, closes the claws to, killing the mole instantly. B, of -course, is a movable tongue of the shape shown at C, and ought to be -tied to the body of the trap in case the mole should by any means -escape, pulling the tongue (C) after it. This is, of course, a very -neat kind of trap, but a dozen of them would come expensive, and -besides, I do not prefer them in actual practice on a large scale, as -they are by no means so likely to be viewed without suspicion by the -mole as are the homespun traps I am going to describe. - -Get a strip of wood (deal is as good as anything) about six inches long -by four broad and half an inch thick, like D, Fig. 6. Bore nine holes -in it, four for the reception of the ends of two half circular hoofs of -wood shown at A, and four smaller ones for the two wires at A2 A2 to -pass through. One largish hole is made in the center, and through this -passes a cord with a knot at the end (C). B shows a piece of wood cut -like a little spatula with a somewhat blunt handle or head (see B2). -This tongue is placed against the knot when the spring hazel stick E -is in position as in Fig. 7. I want you to look carefully at Fig. 6 -because it very nearly explains itself. - -[Illustration: Fig. 6.] - -The whole apparatus is buried in the ground in the run of a mole, and -fastened down by sticks stuck athwart and across, as shown at Fig. 7. -The stick E is thus kept in position by the knot C and the tongue B and -B2. When a mole passes through the circular loops at A A it hits its -nose against B and knocks it out, releasing the knot C, which in turn -releases the bent stick, up this flies, and one of the wires A2 are -bound to catch the hapless Talpa, compressing it so strongly as to kill -it almost instantly. - -[Illustration: Fig. 7.] - -These are the details of how to set the trap. Having found out a run -where the mole-heaps are fresh, or have recently been thrown up, cut -down with the spade end of your tool (Fig. 3) into it, and with your -hands take out the dirt, feeling for and making clear the direction of -the passage each way. Now with the pointed end of Fig. 3 make a hole -slantwise, but not too much so, for the insertion of E (Fig. 6), which -should be a hazel, withy, or ash stick from half an inch in diameter. -Adjust the string of the trap to the top of it, and then set the -tongue, carefully spreading the loops of wire within the hoops. Now, -with the left hand on the trap, and assisted by the knee, bend the -spring stick down, place the trap in its position, and with the right -hand force in some short hazel sticks across and across, as shown in -Fig. 7. This done, your trap is set, and a turf can be broken up and -spread round the top of it, to keep out any light, from the interior -of the run. If my readers have carefully gone through this explanation -with me there is no fear but that they will be able to make and set the -trap--and also catch moles. - -Damp weather, or after a warm shower, is the best time to set these -traps; and as many as twenty or thirty should be systematically set -per day while moles exist and good weather lasts. The straightened -character of the stick will infallibly indicate when the trap is -sprung, and if no mole be caught move it a little farther away, but not -away from the colony entirely, and set again. - -The skins of the moles are in best condition in autumn, and if a -sufficient number be properly cured, and set together by a professional -furrier, a warm and rich garment, either cloak, hat, or waistcoat can -be made. I have a mole-skin waistcoat I have worn for four winters, and -it is far from being worn out yet. Queen Victoria has eight hundred -skins sent annually to Windsor Castle by the Park mole-catcher, for -preparation and making up. I dare say this man catches two or three -thousand moles every year, and yet the number seem not to decline, so -unfailing is the multiplication of these velvety little fellows. - -The professional mole-catcher usually skins his moles in a very summary -manner. Simply passing a very sharp knife round the head, and cutting -off the forefeet, he turns the skin off inside out as I should do -an eel. Indeed, it is a more rapid process than eel-skinning, for I -once had a match with a mole-catcher, which was that I was to skin -six fair-sized eels, while he skinned six moles. I lost, though I am -exceedingly quick with eels, by one eel, much to my annoyance, for -I had loudly boasted of my dexterity. Having skinned his mole as I -described, the mole-catcher then simply stuffs a pledget of hay or -wadding into the skin and leaves it to dry. - -If you have time, however, it is much better to skin the mole by making -an incision down the belly, and taking off the fur as you would do in -the case of a rabbit. It should then be tacked with small tin tacks to -a dry board, the inside toward you, and after removing with a blunt -knife any particles of fat, it should be dressed with a soap made as -follows:--whiting or chalk, 1-1/2 oz.; soft soap, 1 oz.; chloride of -lime, 2 oz. If these ingredients are not handy powdered alum will -serve, though not so well. - -Now, one word in conclusion of this chapter on the mole, and it will -serve as good advice whenever you are trapping. Be quiet; do not go -lumbering all over the ground with the tread of a cart-horse, for it -must be borne in mind that the mole has not only a good perception of -actual sounds, but an exquisite sense of vibration. Like a trout, the -softest tread will in some cases apprise it of danger and cause it to -retire to its citadel. Your object is to catch moles by cutting off -their retreat, for if they are in the central habitation they may not -take the route when next a start is made that you desire and in which -the trap is set. - - - - -II. THE WEASEL, STOAT AND POLECAT. - - -“If we consider the animal creation on a broad scale, the aggregate -of living beings will be found to be the devourers and destroyers of -others.” The editor of Cassel’s Natural History is responsible for this -statement, and it struck me as a forcible and appropriate one for this -chapter on weasels, etc. Without doubt the weasel, next to the rat, -is one of the most destructive of our vermin, preying as it does with -extraordinary ferocity on leverets, chicken, young ducks, pigeons, -rabbits, in fact, on all creatures more timorous than itself. Truly it -is not a very formidable enemy to the farmer in connection with his -granaries and other stores, for it is an inveterate slayer of ruts and -mice, but the gamekeeper cannot tolerate it. Its “treasons, stratagems -and spoils” are, without exception, excessive above all other of the -spoiling mammalia whatsoever. - -Perhaps you doubt the conclusions to which I arrive in reference to -this pretty, brown-backed white-bodied little animal, and there are -some naturalists whose writings seem to clothe it with very different -characteristics. A certain Mademoiselle de Laistre seems to contradict, -in one of her letters, the commonly received opinion that it cannot be -domesticated. She describes with touching minuteness how her weasel -would drink milk out of her hands and fondle with her, showing signs -of satisfaction and enjoyment, which could scarcely be apart from -intelligence. “The little creature,” she says, “can distinguish my -voice amid twenty others, and springs over every one in the room till -it finds me. Nothing can exceed the lively and pleasing way it caresses -me with its two little paws; it frequently pats me on the chin in a -manner that expresses the utmost fondness. This, with a thousand other -kindnesses, convinces me of the sincerity of its attachment. He is -quite aware of my intention when dressed to go out, and then it is with -much difficulty I can rid myself of him. On these occasions he will -conceal himself behind a cabinet near the door and spring on me as I -pass with astonishing quickness.” - -This testimony would seem to rather invest _mustela vulgaris_ with -domestic virtues at least rare in his family, and, sooth to say, there -is a vast crowd of witnesses waiting to be heard, whose report of his -character is far different. The weasel, agile and lithe as he is, is -ferocious to the degree which scorns fear, and there are many instances -wherein he has attacked the absolute viceroy of creation--man. - -I recollect once chasing a weasel with some determination and finding -myself suddenly confronted by some seven or eight others, who ran up my -legs and endeavored to reach my face. Fortunately I beat them off and -killed seven with the stick I carried, but I feel satisfied I should -not have escaped so well if I had not stood my ground and luckily -possessed a stick. - -I have frequently heard of similar experiences, and one I find is -recorded in a cutting from a Scotch newspaper in my scrap-book. - -One night, it appears, the father of Captain Brown, the naturalist, was -returning from Gilmerton, near Edinburgh, by the Dalkeith road. He -observed on the high ground at a considerable distance betwixt him and -Craigmillar Castle a man who was leaping about performing a number of -antic gestures more like those of a madman than of a sane person. After -contemplating this apparently absurd conduct, he thought it might be -some unfortunate maniac, and, climbing over the walls, made directly -towards him. When he got pretty near he saw that the man had been -attacked, and was defending himself against the assaults of a number -of small animals which he at first took for rats, but which, in fact, -turned out on getting closer, to be a colony of from fifteen to twenty -weasels, which the unfortunate man was tearing from him and endeavoring -to keep from his throat. Had he not been a powerful man, capable of -sustaining the extreme fatigue of this singular exertion, he probably -would have succumbed to the repeated efforts made by the ferocious -little creatures to get at his throat. As it was, his hands were much -bitten, and bleeding profusely. - -It further appears that the commencement of the battle was nearly as -follows. He was walking slowly through the park when he happened to -see a weasel. He ran at it, and made several unsuccessful attempts to -strike it with a small cane he held in his hand. On coming near the -rock, he got between it and the animal, and thus cut off retreat. The -weasel squeaked out aloud, when a sortie of the whole colony was made, -and the affray commenced. - -Apropos of this, I have read somewhere of a colony of rats attacking -a condemned criminal in the sewers of Paris--or in a dungeon closely -contiguous--and I can quite believe that hunger and numbers would -render these horrible vermin capable of homicide. - -I do not quite see how any one can pity the members of this weasel -family. Let any one of my boy readers hear the agonized cries of -a pursued rabbit as it finds its relentless foe chasing it with a -determination and persistence quite unequaled, and he will probably -find the American love of fair play prompt him to take the weaker -creature’s part. - -Emphatically I declare it--a weasel never relinquishes its quarry till -the life’s blood has been sucked and the brain extracted and eaten. -Then wasteful as the little tyrant is, the rats may have the remainder, -whilst it seeks for more prey. Its little finger-thick body and black, -venom-leaden eyes seem the incarnation of destructiveness, whilst over -the sharp incisive teeth rows might well be written - - “Ch’entrate lasciate ogni speranza,” - -the terrible epigraph Dante, in his wonderful “Divina Commedia,” saw -inscribed over the portals of the infernal regions. - -Perhaps there is one redeeming feature in all this pitiless ferocity, -and that is the indomitable courage with which the weasel defends its -young against all marauders. It breeds as fast as a rabbit--that is, -two or three, or even more times in a year--and its nest of dried -herbage and undergrowth is generally made in the hollow of some old -tree or wall. Close by the nest may often be found the remains of -putrid mice, rats, birds, etc., which circumstance has suggested to -some naturalists the conclusion that the weasel prefers carrion to -fresh food. This is erroneous. It is true that it hunts, like some -dogs, entirely, or nearly so, by scent, and will even follow the -sightless mole through the interminable windings of its burrow; but -fresh flesh and blood are its delight, and if there be a plentitude -of food it disdains all the grosser parts of its prey with a -fastidiousness worthy of Apicius, the _gourmet_. The weasel generally -produces five or six young ones at a birth. - -[Illustration: Fig. 11.] - -I do not counsel sparing the weasel any more than the rat. The best -place for the gins to be set is underneath a wall whereby the weasel -is known to travel. The best trap unquestionably is the steel trap, or -gin, and the best bait is the inside of a newly-killed rabbit. This -is the concrete essence of my experience. You can scent the bait with -musk, and this addition will often prove of exceeding service. At the -ends of drains, in the hollows of old buildings, in the dry tracts of -ditches, by old trees--all these are likely places and a careful watch -will often discover their tracks. In setting the gin do not allow it -to spring hard as if you expected an elephant of the Jumbo type to -tread on the plate. On the contrary, let it spring very lightly, and -if possible hang the bait up, so that the creature puts a foot on the -plate and so gets caught. A very good sort of trap for open places is a -fall-trap, which may be made at home and is useful for nearly all kinds -of vermin, including even birds (See Fig. 11). Some little explanation -is needed for the complete understanding of this trap. A is a board -hollowed near the letter A to relieve _e_ when the trap falls. B is a -slab of lead or iron cut to admit _a_ and _f_; _h_ is a hinge holding -_c_, which, when adjusted at _g_, impinges on _a_, and so sustains -the slab B. On the little hooks _d_ the bait is fixed, and the weasel -confidently places his foot on _e_. Of course _f_ then springs from -_g_ and down falls the slab, crushing the captive instantly. A stone -slab is quite as useful, if not more so, than lead or iron, and it -is evident that this fall-trap can be set with the greatest ease and -delicacy. - -[Illustration: Fig. 12.] - -The next useful trap is termed “The Fig. 4 Trap,” from its resemblance -to that character, and is shown in the engraving (Fig. 12). This -consists of a large slab of stone, metal, or wood, propped up by three -pieces of wood (A, B and C). If the engraving be carefully examined it -will be seen to consist of a perpendicular A, of a horizontal bar C, -at one end of which is attached the bait D, and of a slanting stick -B. The upright A is usually half an inch square, and cut to a sort of -chisel-shape at top; a notch is also cut in the side of the stretcher -C, as shown in the side diagram _x_, to prevent it slipping down; and -a notch is also cut at the top of B to receive the upright, as well -as in C, to fix it, B being at this latter point of a chisel shape. -It will be obvious to the attentive reader that if this trap be set -carefully, and with a sufficiency of delicacy, a very slight tug at D -will be sufficient to bring down the slab, crushing the animal, or, if -a hollow be made in the ground, imprisoning it. This trap, for nearly -all vermin (of course, except moles), is very cheap and effective; -and for cats--in their wrong places, of course--is remarkably useful, -especially if D represent a sponge, on which tincture of valerian or -oil of rhodium has been sprinkled. One advantage of this trap is that -it is inexpensive, and not likely to be coveted by anybody else. -The gin has, however, preference in my mind over other artificial -traps for weasels, and I counsel all my readers to adopt it as the -surest if their pockets will sustain the initial expense. There is, -however, nothing lost in endeavoring to make your own traps, for such -perseverance implies interest in the pursuit of trapping, and this -necessarily is the central motive towards the acquirement of natural -knowledge. - -There is one method of capturing weasels which I have found very -useful, though it entails the loss of an innocent live bird in many -cases. Form a sort of oblong square with brushwood and close it all -in except two narrow lanes leading to the center, at which point peg -down a young chicken or bird. Set the traps, as closely concealed as -possible at the ends of these lanes, so that neither by ingress nor -egress can the weasel escape without the chance of being caught. Each -trap should be set very lightly, and in some dry ditch near a covert, -or by the side of a wall, or, in fact, in any likely spot recognized by -the trained eye. - -Here is another bad character in the polecat, or foumart, and as it is -the largest of the two, it commonly does most damage, though in saying -this I really am not sure I can place either or them first in this -respect. The weasel and polecat are unmitigated robbers and assassins, -and according to opportunity are given indifferently to bad habits of -the worst character. The polecat is, however, nearly sixteen inches -from that to eighteen inches in length, and its bite is terrific and -sometimes poisonous. Beware, therefore, of it when releasing one caught -in a trap; in fact, as I before impressed on you, “kill it first.” The -body of the polecat has a woolly undercoat of pale yellow, while the -longer hairs are of a deep glossy brown. - -Its habits are very similar to those of the weasel, and it commonly -kills chickens by biting the head off and then sucking the blood, -leaving perhaps a dozen bodies as mementoes of its visitation. I have -known it to catch fish, and I caught one in a trap, set as I supposed -at the time, for an otter. The otter turned out to be a polecat, -however, which measured, exclusive of the tail, fourteen inches. Eels -seemed to be the prey for which it took water, as I had previously -found the remains of several half-eaten on the shore. - -This circumstance was a strange one to me, and altogether exceptional, -until I looked up my natural history books, when I found that Bewick -refers to a similar fact in his “Quadrupeds.” He says:--“During a -severe storm one of these animals was traced in the snow from the side -of a rivulet to its hole at some distance from it.... Its hole was -examined, the foumart taken, and eleven fine eels were discovered as -the fruits of its nocturnal exertions. The marks on the snow were found -to have been made by the motions of the eels while in the creature’s -mouth.” We have no reason for doubting Bewick, but it is certain that -the polecat must have extracted the eels from either beneath stones -or mud, where, during cold weather such as described, it is their -infallible habit to retire in a semi-torpid condition. - -In trapping it use a strong gin, and set very lightly. The baits are -precisely similar to those for the weasel. Be, above all, careful to -use the naked hands as little as possible. - - - - -III. RATS. - - -Rats may, I think, fairly lay claim to being the most mischievous of -all vermin. They are fellows of irreclaimably bad habits, and never -so happy as when devouring or destroying something. Artemus Ward has -placed it on record that “Injins is pisen wherever you meet ’em,” -and the same might be said of rats. In that exquisitely whimsical -poem of Browning’s, “The Pied Piper of Hamelin,” we are told that the -townspeople were plagued emphatically with - - “Rats! - They fought the dogs and killed the cats, - And bit the babies in their cradles, - And ate the cheeses out of the vats, - And licked the soup from the cook’s own ladles. - Split open the kegs of salted sprats, - Made nests inside men’s Sunday hats, - And even spoiled the women’s chats - By drowning their speaking - With shrieking and squeaking - In fifty different sharps and flats.” - -I have not the least doubt but that they did all this and other things -worse; hence I would say with no uncertainty, “Slay all and spare -none,” whenever you get a chance. I do not know of one redeeming -feature in the character of _Mus decumanus_ unless it be good in a pie, -as our friend the Rev. J. G. Wood hints that it is from experimental -trial. - -Hundreds on hundreds of tales relating to its cunning or intelligence -might be cited until you were heartily tired of reading, much less I -of writing. How rats will bite holes in leaden pipes, attack the face -of a sleeping infant--an instance of which I might relate from actual -knowledge--how they devour each other, leaving only the skin turned -inside out as neatly as you could turn a stocking, and last, but far -from least, how they have been trained to perform a drama in pantomime -and various other tricks quite too numerous to refer to here. The rat -is practically omnivorous, and so gets his living where more select -appetites and digestions would starve. “Hit him ’ard, he ain’t a’ got -no friends,” as was said of the pauper boy in “Oliver Twist.” Every -creature’s hand seems turned against him, and we, agreeably to this -bent of nature, will now proceed to compass his destruction by means of -trapping. - -[Illustration: Fig. 8.] - -Unquestionably the best trap is the common iron gin. Everybody knows -what that is like, with its centre plate and formidable rows of teeth -on either side the jaws. I shall therefore spare you a drawing and -description of it, and content myself with simply advising that the -teeth be of the shape shown at Fig. 8--that is, square points fitting -when closed in half circles. Now this form of tooth does not cut -through the limb of the captured animal so readily as the saw-shaped -does, and is preferable on that account. Rats are very prone to gnaw -through a fractured limb and free themselves--they will not do this -nearly so readily, however, if the teeth be of the shape indicated. -This is also the best shape for the capture of other vermin, as we -shall see as these chapters proceed. - -[Illustration: Fig. 9.] - -In all cases a chain about eighteen inches is attached by means of an S -hook in the gin. A swivel should be placed about the middle, and a ring -of about an inch and a quarter should terminate it. A good stout stake, -about eighteen inches long, is also necessary, and ash is particularly -recommendable if it can be procured. If it be trimmed when cut, like -Fig. 9, so that a short piece of branch keeps the ring from slipping -off, so much the better. Another tool which is ever useful when gins -are being set (and that will be pretty frequent with the vermin I shall -speak about) is a hammer shaped something like Fig. 10. You will see -that it has a broad, hatchet-like form to it instead of the claws of -an ordinary hammer, and this is for cutting into the earth, separating -roots, etc. In twenty ways it comes in useful, so I advise my readers -to get one made after this pattern. - -[Illustration: Fig. 10.] - -Be careful in setting your trap to keep your fingers well away from -the teeth, and to do this observe the following method. Place your -right foot upon the spring firmly, and as the jaws fall back, quickly -lift the catch over with your right hand; then, without relaxing -pressure, raise the plate of the trap from underneath until it allows -of the catch to meet the nick in the plate. Set them lightly or hard, -according to the animal to be trapped. Experience will soon enable you -to judge how this should be for a rat. A fine sieve is generally used -by trappers to sift dirt over the trap when set, but you can dispense -with this if you wear gloves. In rat-trapping, by the by, always wear -thick gloves; rats can smell you infallibly. - -You can easily detect a rat-run, and quite as easily tell if it be -fresh or not, by noticing the appearance of the excrement. Having -determined on a fresh run, endeavor so to set your trap that the catch -shall be light, and the whole affair completely hidden from sight, the -pan or plate being baited with whatever seems to have been the recent -food, or food most likely to be got near by the run. For rats in runs -where they come to feed, by walls, rick-sides, or places at which they -appear most, the traps should be set. When the run appear stale or not -much used, they should be shifted to other places. For rats a great -variety of baits may be used, but the best is generally something like -what they are in the habit of feeding upon on farm premises; grain, -with sufficient chaff or cut hay to cover the bottom, meal mixed with -sweet broth or small bits of meat. Rats may be enticed with oils of -aniseed, thyme, and rhodium, and when traps are new and smell of the -shop a few drops should be rubbed inside the bottom of the traps to -take the other smell away. By using a drag of these oils, rubbed on a -herring or a piece of clean rag, rats may be enticed a long way. - -A capital bait for old poaching rats--such as would not hesitate to -kill your spring chickens or young rabbits--is the drawing of game of -any sort, or the young of pigeons or young birds. I have also found -the following a capital dodge to enable one to overcome the cunning -of an old buck rat. Get some sprats and pound them. Put them in glass -bottles and cork and seal, and hang them up in the sun for three weeks -or so, or put them on a dung-hill of moderate heat. This will entirely -decompose and resolve them into an oily substance exceedingly bad -smelling. Pour some of this on a rag and drag it about from a common -center where the trap is, and indeed it is well to drag it after one -as the traps are seen to successively. The trap bait should be roasted -salt fish. A kippered herring does famously, and a few drops of oil of -aniseed can be put on the bait. I have known this to be exceedingly -successful. - -A similar sort of treatment is necessary for the water-rat. There is, -however, but little necessity to use baits if the trap be set under -water at the spot where the creature emerges. The precise place can be -easily seen, and its freshness or staleness as a “run” be determined -in the same way as that of a brown rat. The water-rat is easily -distinguished from its cousin the brown by the tail of the former being -covered with hair and that of the latter with scales, of which there -are 200 rows. It must not be supposed, however, because the water-rat -derives its living from the water chiefly that it is not a destructive -creature inland. A very interesting writer says: “We have seen -water-rats cross a wide meadow, climb the stalks of the dwarf beans, -and after detaching the pods with their teeth, shell the beans in a -most woman-like manner.” They are also said to mount vines and feed on -grapes, and I can verify that they are fond of plums from the following -incident: - -Between my study window and the margin of a stream at the foot of -my garden stand two tall trees of the bullace plum, and this year -they have been unusually full of fruit. I placed a ladder against -one of the trees in order to pick the plums, but rain or some other -interference prevented my doing so at the intended time; thus the -ladder remained for some days. Now I have a large tabby cat, and -besides a good rat-killer she is fond of birds, and strangely enough -will climb trees and spring at a bird within reach, in nine cases out -of ten falling to the ground with her captive in her mouth. As I sat -writing one morning Tabby mounted her coign of vantage by means of the -ladder, and scaled to the topmost height, enjoying the sunshine, and -not, I fancy, on this occasion waiting for prey. However, good things -come when least expected, and presently Tabby and I both beheld a -large water-rat--unseen by the latter, of course--approach the ladder, -and after peering slyly round, began to mount it, which he did with -remarkable agility. On reaching the first large branch he stepped on -it, and without the least hesitation made for a cluster of the plums -and began his feast. I told you Tabby saw him as well as I, and I would -have given much too if she had not. As Mr. Rat sat absorbed with his -back to her, like a jungle leopard, creeping with silent certainty on -its innocent, unsuspecting prey, Tabby slowly approached, and the -steadfast glare in her greenish eyes was full of a deadly purpose, -which gathered strength as she progressed. Presently, when within three -feet of the still gourmandizing rat, her fell purpose culminated in -a terrific but unerring spring, which tumbled rat and cat out of the -tree to the ground. Habet! alas! he had it, and after a few terrific -crunches of her jaws Tabby rose from the body proudly, with swinging -tail and a victorious air, which as plainly as language conveyed -infinite self-complacency at the death-dealing deed. - -These rats are more clever in boring their tunnels than the brown -species, resembling, in fact, the ingenuity of the mole rather than the -rat. They are much more cleanly also. Should you get an apple or pear -or melon which has been bitten by a brown rat you will instantly detect -it by its peculiar musty odor and taste. The water-rat is, on the -contrary, a much more cleanly animal, and its flesh is not uncommonly -eaten by the French peasants on _maigre_ days. It breeds in the spring, -and again in autumn if the spring litter be very early, bringing forth -five or six at a time. The nest is usually by the side of a river or -stream. In the roots of an old willow tree just opposite my house -I found six nests this year. Not that these rats will not at times -build away from the water. I know of several instances, as a neighbor -was plowing in a dry, chalky field, far removed from any water, he -turned out a water rat that was curiously laid up in an _hybernaculum_ -artificially formed of grass and leaves. At one end lay about a gallon -of potatoes, regularly stowed, on which it was to have supported itself -for the winter. - -When a rat is caught in a gin always be careful to keep your hand at a -distance on releasing it. In fact, do not let it go at all, but kill -it at once. I do not like the idea of letting a suffering animal be -farther tormented by dogs, or even cats. There can be no true sport in -it except, perhaps, to the savage instincts of the dog, and why a human -being should find cruel sport for a dog I cannot tell you. - -The other species, the black rat (_Mus rattus_), is perhaps a more -ancient importation even than the brown. It is, however, scarcer -than either of the others. Its colors are grayish black above and -ash-colored, and beneath it is about seven and a half inches long when -full grown. - -Ferrets are often employed to aid in exterminating the brown rat. The -ferret is of no use whatever for the water-rat, though it is certainly -extremely useful when barns, wood-heaps, and such like erections -are infested. The gun is the thing, in the hands of an experienced -sportsman, to kill them as the ferrets force them to leave their homes, -but a few sharp dogs and a half dozen sharp school-fellows with sticks -will produce very certain destruction. Be careful not to mistake -the head of a ferret coming out of a hole for that of a rat, as once -happened to me in this wise. I was staying at a farm-house, and it was -proposed one fine December morning to try an hour or two’s ferreting. -My school chum, with whom I was staying, possessed some very tame and -good working ferrets, one in particular, a fine brownish dog ferret, by -which he set great store. The great wheat barn was to be laid siege to, -and he being a good shot and older than I, took down his gun and loaded -it preparatory to starting. - -“Jack,” said he to me, “you can shoot, can’t you?” I was but fourteen -then and a school boy, and I fear I answered rather too readily and -without sufficient modesty, “Oh, yes; have you a gun to spare?” Yes, he -had a single-barrel pretty little weapon, and, proud as a cock-robin, I -sallied forth, on mighty shots intent. “Now,” said he, with emphasis, -“stand here; watch that hole, and as soon as you see the _whole_ of a -rat’s body fire away, but be careful not to kill a ferret, which you -may easily do if you fire too hastily.” I recollect I rather scorned -the idea of mistaking a ferret for a rat, and with steadfast attention -prepared to kill the first of the rodents that appeared. It seemed an -age, and then one swiftly popped his head out and bolted past me, my -fire hitting the ground at least a yard behind him. How savage I was! -not to speak of the half sneers of my companions. Next time I would be -ready. Ah! there was a slight movement in the hole, a small nose poked -itself out and then disappeared. I pointed the gun straight for the -hole. Out it came again, and then a brown head swiftly appeared. Bang! -Hurrah! I had killed him. Round came the boys. “Well done,” said my -friend Ted, as he stooped to draw out the murdered wretch. “Why, you -duffing idiot, you’ve killed my best dog ferret!” Moral, do not jump at -conclusions. - - - - -IV. THE OTTER. - - -The otter is one of the most graceful of living creatures, but as a -fisherman and fishculturist, I candidly confess that I look on him as a -detestable nuisance on my river. What says the poet! - - “Nor spears - That bristle on his back defend the perch - From his wide, greedy jaws; nor burnished mail - The yellow carp; nor all his arts can save - Th’ insinuating eel, that hides his head - Beneath the slimy mud; nor yet escapes - The crimson-spotted trout, the river’s pride - And beauty of the stream.” - -This is a faithful picture of the otter’s remorseless and predacious -nature. I caught one the other day in an eel-grate, whither he had -doubtless gone for the eels. The biter was, however, bit, for the rush -of water was too powerful, and on opening the door in the morning I -found him dead and stiff. - -The otter usually kills many more fish than it actually wants for -food, and as otters generally hunt in pairs, it is not uncommon to -find in the morning as many as thirteen or fourteen prime trout--in an -ordinarily plentiful river, of course--killed and only partly eaten. -Like the lord mayor’s jester, however, the otter knows what is good, -or, indeed, best, for it eats away the shoulders of the fish, leaving -the rest to rot or be devoured by rats. - -I have said it is graceful, and so it is, in a remarkable degree. -Let me advise you, if you live in New York, to visit the Zoological -Gardens, in Central Park, and watch the fine sinuous turns and sweeps -as the otter seizes or seeks for its prey. Its body is long and -flexible, and its feet short and webbed, and the adjacent muscles are -of immense muscular power. Its eyes are large, the ears short, and it -is bewhiskered like a Viking. Its coat is double, like that of the -seal. Long glossy hairs form the outer one, and a short waterproof -woolly waistcoat comprises the inner, so that neither cold nor wet -can affect the well-being of this amphibious hunter. In the daytime -it hides itself in its hole, which usually is some feet deep in the -bank, _above_ highwater mark, but at night its depredations commence; -and when the female has young, say five, and the male otter works with -her, as he generally does, I estimate that from thirty to forty fish -per night are, if anything, rather within the number than beyond. Can -any one deny, therefore, that the otter comes within the common-sense -definition of vermin? - -If the otter be taken young, and great kindness and care be shown it, -it may be transferred from the category of vermin into that of “pets,” -and I do not think there is a much more interesting pet in existence, -and I recollect one which used to run about after its master at Eton, -England, some years since. A friend of mine (head river-keeper on a -nobleman’s estate) took a tame one from an old poacher which the latter -had constantly employed to catch fish and bring to him. My friend -tells me that when he caught the poacher he had some sixty fine trout, -scarcely injured, in a bag, all of which had been captured by the otter. - -There are many instances of a similar character referred to in the -natural history books which I cannot produce here. It is sufficient -to say that otter-taming, and even the utilizing of the creature for -fishing purposes, is by no means uncommon. - -The otter is usually hunted with dogs of a particular breed, but I -shall not attempt to describe this species of sport in this place. -There are those who object to hunting on principle, and I am not -bigoted enough to say they are altogether wrong. Certain, however, -it is that otter hunting is remarkably exhilarating, and there is a -great deal of fun to be got out of the mishaps which are sure to ensue -to the hunters as they scamper and splash and rush and dash over the -bowlders, through bush and brier and stream and rivulet, till the wily -brute is either caught or “kenneled.” So far as we are now concerned, -I shall content myself with telling you how to trap this vermin of the -water, and if ever you become possessed of a stream or lake of fish do -not forget that the otter is your chiefest enemy--excepting the human -poacher, of course. - -Now we will presume you are one morning early taking a walk by the side -of your favorite stream. On each side the willows and alders bend over -the water and their roots clutch the banks with rugged fingers, forming -coverts for rats, moorhens, dabchicks, and other small fry, as well as -for the quiet-loving trout. - -Presently, as you attentively note these features, you are aware of -a sort of footpath proceeding from the stream, and on looking closer -you notice that fresh excrement has been left and that footprints of -a dog-like animal are to be seen in the soft earth. Follow this trail -and perchance, ere many steps have been taken, you come upon the -carmine-spotted body of a two-pound trout, minus head and shoulders, or -a pound silver eel with its broadest part eaten away. You now know that -an otter has been at work, and you must vow that he shall die. But how? -Listen. The track is fresh. Good! Procure the largest rabbit-gin you -can, and after attaching it firmly to a stake driven under water, drive -two more sticks under water exactly where the otter comes ashore, and -set it upon them. Do not bait the trap at all, or the otter will not -come near, but simply set it under water, so that when his ottership -comes to bank with his ill-gotten booty he puts his foot on the plate -of the gin. A good plan also, where this one is not practicable, is to -carefully cut up a sod of dirt in the pathway of the otter, and set -the gin very gingerly, covering it up completely with short grass and -a sprinkling of dirt. In any case use gloves, so that your hands are -not smelt, for, strange as it may seem in an animal getting its food by -sight, the sense of smell is exquisitely developed in the otter. When -caught be very careful not to handle him. His teeth are “orful.” - -Daniel, in his “Rural Sports,” says “the trap must be set in and -covered with mud to prevent the otter seeing it. The instant the trap -strikes, the otter plunges into the water with it, when its weight -preventing his rising to the surface soon destroys him.” But I incline -to my own plan in preference. Of course, if the “spoor,” “spraint,” or -“seal” cannot be seen it is advisable to set several traps at intervals -along the bank, covering them lightly with moss. - - - - -V. THE SQUIRREL. - - -At the commencement of this series of articles I referred to the -squirrel, and quoted the words in which Mr. Ruskin describes his -unbounded admiration for this sprightly little fellow. The squirrel -has a very voracious appetite, however, and if he once by accident or -design tastes the luscious richness of pheasant or partridge egg he -becomes a poacher of very extreme character. Game-keepers do not object -to squirrels as a rule, as long as they confine themselves to those -parts of a covert where game are not, though in the case of largely -stocked preserves these parts are not easily found. - -When Master “Squiggy,” however, takes to sucking eggs and teaching his -grandmother and uncles, aunts and cousins, to do the same, then it -becomes a manifest duty to snare him and take him away if you do not -kill him. Of course it is not likely that my boy readers will be called -upon to assist professionally in such a proceeding, but I will briefly -describe how squirrels may be caught alive, for when removed from the -place of mischief they make capital pets after a time of patience and -taming. - -[Illustration: Fig. 1.] - -It is necessary for two to embark in the proceedings that follow. One -is the climber, and he, I need scarcely say, should be a tolerably good -one. A pair of climbing irons are almost indispensable, and I should -certainly advise boys to get them. He is also provided with a long pole -with a loop of fine twisted brass wire attached to it (Fig. 1). - -Now let us term these two warriors A and B. Having spotted a squirrel -and observed him run up a tree, A attaches his irons and prepares to -climb. Before this is done B stands beneath the tree and attracts the -squirrel’s attention, and keeps his eye fixed on him, B never moving -from where he stands. Meanwhile A is gradually approaching from behind -the squirrel, and when he is near enough he slips the loop over the -creature’s head, gives a sharp wrench, and lets the pole, squirrel, and -all drop to the ground to be secured by B. Of course the squirrel is -almost choked, but a firm hand in a thick leather glove soon releases -the frightened animal, and you have to do with him as your pleasure -will. You ought to take a bag with you and instantly pop him into it. -This is the way the men catch squirrels in the country, and is far -better than trapping them so as to cause pain. - -I have thus told you how to catch squirrels without materially hurting -them, and I suppose I may as well tell you how to keep them. Well, -having caught the lively young gentleman, keep him in the dark for a -day or two, only occasionally letting him get a glance of the outer -world. Feed him during this period with beechnuts, chestnuts, and by -all means let him have plenty of water. After a time you may take -away all covering from his cage and let him, like yourself, enjoy the -glories of the sunlight. In a very short space of time his captivity -will cease to be so irksome, especially if for the first week or two -you use him to only seeing yourself near. - -The squirrel, or at least the common red one of our forest, seems -remarkably intelligent, and its humors vary almost as much in -comparison as those of a child. I kept four, having brought them up -from the nest, and their antics and different moods were a source of -continued amusement. Sometimes Tom would quarrel with a sort of mimic -anger with Jill, and Jim and Sam were almost continually finding fault -with each other over poor unfortunate Lady Jill, whose chief misfortune -seemed to be that she preferred Tom to either of the others. The -affection seemed to be returned, for if we gave a piece of potato to -Tom he instantly passed it over to Jill and shared it. Sometimes entire -good-humor would prevail, when the gambols with each other were a very -pretty sight. This was generally on a fine sunny spring morning after a -good meal of nuts. The cage was large, and a sort of leap-frog was kept -up for half an hour, ending by somebody getting Tom’s temper out over -Miss Jill. I never had a bite from either, and this I attribute to my -never handling them unnecessarily, and never being afraid to take hold -of them carefully but firmly. - -Their end was a sad one. I acquired a splendid Persian cat, and the -strangeness of a new habitation made Miss Pussy very spiteful and -bad-tempered. One day I had turned out the four squirrels in order -to clean the cage thoroughly, and they as usual betook themselves out -of the window. With a sudden bound Puss had poor Jill, and with one -scrunch she was dead. Puss then bounded after the others, and they -escaping up a large yew tree I lost sight of all but one forever. What -ultimately became of Jim and Sam I never knew, but Tom would often -show himself in the tree and look down with eyes which seemed to say -mournfully, “Ah, you’ve killed my little wife between you, and I’m -not such a coon as to trust myself within range of her murderers.” -Shortly after this we removed, and thus ended my squirrel-keeping, not, -however, without much regret on my side at least. - - - - -VI. BIRD TRAPPING. - - -Bird-catching has always a fascination for boys, and, indeed, in my -opinion, as a harmless but most interesting pastime, it may be compared -not unfavorably with fishing. - -“But,” I hear some one say, “is it not cruel to catch and imprison or -kill our pretty feathered friends, and if so, is it not wrong to teach -boys cruelty?” I answer emphatically “No” to the first of these, and -that reply does away with the other question. - -It is not cruel to catch the hawk that preys on kindred species, as -does the shark or pike, or the beautiful kingfisher that ruthlessly -slaughters your innocent baby trout, or the weird and ghostly heron, -whose insatiable maw will ever cry, “Give! Give!” like the daughters of -the horseleech, from every inhabited stream, or the bad-mannered crow, -or the mischievous jay with his egg-eating proclivities. - -Then there are some birds, such as pigeons, blackbirds, thrushes, -redwings and plovers, and the water-fowl, such as moorhens, widgeon, -teal, ducks, etc., which are excellent eating, and who shall say that -to kill and eat necessarily implies cruelty? - -“But about the pretty song-birds?” you say. Well, now, what bird -is happier in captivity than your consequential cock bullfinch, or -merry-voiced chaffinch? And are there more annoying birds in existence -to those who live by the soil? If you doubt me, go and ask the gardener -and hear what he says about Chaffy’s and Bully’s work on the fruitbuds. -Then remember what present pleasure the joyous song of the well-fed and -warmly-caged linnet or siskin gives to all; but perchance most of all -to some one whose hours are spent wearily on the bed of pain. - -Of course, catching birds for the mere sake of doing it is wrong, and -pray is not fishing liable to the same objection? To go out for the -mere purpose of bringing home lots of fish, which are afterwards put -to no use, is an abuse of an otherwise harmless sport to which such -great and good men as Izaak Walton, Sir Henry Wotton, Archbishop Paley, -Charles Kingsley, Mr. John Bright, and many others, have been and are -devoted. - -Besides, the methods I shall explain, except for the larger birds of -prey--_vermin_, in fact--need cause no pain to the captured bird, or -if it does, only of the most instant character, which is over when the -bird is dead or caged. The wildest birds require only proper treatment -to render them happy in confinement, and of this fact I was never more -forcibly convinced than when, visiting a very experienced bird-catcher -the other day, I saw a huge tabby tom-cat reposing in the cage of a -cock gold-finch, whose sweet song must have lulled the cat to sleep and -a forgetfulness of its fierce destroying instincts. Hearing it sing, I -could not help recalling Walton’s pious and beautiful reflection anent -the nightingale: “Lord, what music hast Thou provided for Thy saints in -heaven when Thou affordest bad men such music on earth!” - -Finally, in defense of the bird catcher’s art, let me urge the benefit -young people derive from an intimate knowledge of the natural history -of birds and their surroundings. As in fishing the best naturalist in -fish is invariably the best angler, so whether he be scientific or not, -the best ornithologist is, by virtue of his knowledge, inevitably the -most successful bird-catcher. Nothing can conduce to an unaffected love -of nature--the “time vesture” of God, Carlyle terms it--more readily -than close observation of the habits, instincts, and intelligences of -the creatures over which man has been given dominion. - -Birds, the flight of which man, with all his mechanical ingenuity, had -never yet been able to imitate, are of the most beautiful and wonderful -of these, and their capture within the limits I have laid down is a -pastime at once innocent, amusing, instructive and profitable. One word -more. Be gentle boys, and then presently become gentle_men_ in the true -sense of the word, and handle each captive, if it be alive, mercifully, -“as if you loved him,” inflicting no unnecessary pain or discomfort in -any wise. - -Having then in some sort justified bird-catching, if indeed this -was needed, let me say how I intend treating the subject in the few -following chapters. First, with your attention, I will refer to -bird-catching by net; secondly, catching birds by bird-lime; and -thirdly, trapping birds, which latter division will embrace the various -use of the springs, traps, snares, gins, etc., in vogue amongst -professional trappers, game-keepers and others. As the directions -will be severely practical, any one will be able to succeed from -them--assuming, of course, he has the requisite patience. There is -one thing, however, to be borne in mind, that is--there is a Wild -Birds’ Preservation Act, which, inefficient and muddling as it is, is -nevertheless the law of the land, and in it a close time is provided, -during which bird-catching is illegal. - - - - -VII. BIRD-CATCHING BY NET. - - -There are several sorts of nets used for various species of birds, but -for song birds the most common is termed the clap-net, of which Fig. 1 -is an outline representation. In looking carefully at it you will see -I have left one side without netting; this, however, should of course -have a net; consider, therefore, the two sides as similar to that on -which the net is shown. - -[Illustration: Fig. 1.] - -Now the net from which the drawing was taken was somewhat different -from the usual kind. Those ordinarily used are of twine, and netted -diagonally with mesh three quarter inches. - -This one, however, if of silk undressed fishing line, and of half-inch -mesh, netted with a square mesh instead of diamond-shape or diagonal. -At each end of it are attached jointed poles which fit in each other -like joints of a fishing-rod; these are when put together six feet six -inches in length, but the net itself is broader to allow of a certain -amount of bagging. - -If this were not so the birds would be liable to run along underneath -the net and escape, whereas as now arranged they entangle themselves in -the soft silk meshes. Of course silk is not necessary, but it is best -if expense is no object. A twine net will do very well for boys, and -if they have mastered the instructions for netting they need have no -difficulty in making their own. - -The engraving, if carefully looked into, explains itself, but I will, -to further elucidate the matter, tell you how it is laid. First, bear -in mind the net in the cut is now placed on the ground as it should -be laid; this is how to do it. Place both nets spread out as shown, -roughly on the ground (you can measure their proper relative distances -afterward), and drive in the farthest peg (_i. e._, farthest from -bird-catcher), to which is attached both the “top” and “bottom” line -(see cut). Let this peg be firmly driven in, for on it the chief strain -falls. Now plant the peg at the end of the jointed pole farthest from -the bird-catcher (E). The pole is linked to this peg either by means -of two staples or loops of rope attached to both in such a way as to -act as a hinge. Now stretch the bottom between the two jointed poles -as shown, driving the peg in firmly as before. Finally plant the peg -_nearest_ E, having stretched the bottom line tightly throughout. - -Measure now a space of width sufficient to allow the two nets when -drawn over toward each other to fall, covering their _top_ edges about -six inches with each other. Thus, as in the cut, if the net be six feet -six inches broad you must allow twelve feet six inches between them. -Having done this, fix the other net in a manner precisely similar to -its fellow. C on the engraving, as can be seen, is the pull-line, and -it is joined as is shown to a line stretching at right angles between -the four top line ends of the jointed poles. The effect of pulling this -is to bring the nets up and over, both falling in the twelve feet six -inches space, and thus inclosing anything within that space. The birds -are enticed by the cage-birds in the first instance (see cut), and -finally by the play-birds perched on the play-stick (B). - -[Illustration: Fig. 2.] - -The play-bird is a bird of the same kind as those sought to be -captured, which is attached by means of miniature harness (to be -presently shown) to the play-stick, and it being comparatively free it -proves very attractive (see Fig. 2). C is the bird. This stick is of -three parts: A, a piece of wood made like Fig. 3; and B, a piece of -brass tubing beaten flat at one end and placed on the stick, which may -be a hazel or ash twig. A hole is punctured through this tube, and a -peg passed through it holds it in its place, as well as serving as an -axle on which its movements work as prompted by the play-line, which -passes also through A, as shown in Fig. 2. - -[Illustration: Fig. 3.] - -I have said the bird is harnessed and tethered to the stick at C (Fig. -2). This harnessing is perfectly painless to the little fellow, and -consists of a sort of double loop affixed to a swivel (Fig. 6). The -head of the bird is passed through and the loops are drawn down over -and round its wings close to the body. Of course they are drawn and -tied just tight enough to fit the body, and the swivel is attached; -then a piece of fine twine of about a foot and a half in length -connects the play-bird with its stick. The method of using this bird -is as follows: Directly the call-birds--which are cock birds in full -song--have attracted others of their species, the bird-catcher gently -pulls the play line, raising and lowering the stick. This prompts the -play-bird to use its wings in a perfectly natural manner, and the -consequence is, the wild birds becoming bolder at seeing one of their -brethren so apparently unrestrained, venture in the forbidden space, -and with no fear visible at once proceed to exchange civilities. As -soon as the bird-catcher observes the bird well in the reach of the -nets, he pulls swiftly and strongly at C (Fig. 1), and the nets close -over both the play or decoy bird and those he has innocently lured to -their captivity. Now this in no case injures them, and running up, -the bird-catcher places them in a large airy cage opening inwards, -and commonly covers them over with a cloth, lest in the first moments -of restraint they injure themselves against the bars. Two or more -play-birds should be used, so that not one may be over-tired. - -[Illustration: Fig. 6.] - -Thus you have the whole apparatus of “clap”-netting and its use -explained. Now for a few hints as to where to set a net. First, do not -forget to mark the habits of the birds yourself, and so learn where to -find them at all seasons. Larks and linnets are easily found in open -plains and by water brooks, goldfinches come in autumn to feed off the -thistledown, starling swarm as winter comes on and are met with in all -sorts of pastures where some growth of underwood or deciduous trees -are found. For shy birds let your full line be quite forty yards long; -and a good plan for blackbirds, starlings, and other wary birds is to -lay your nets and get behind a hedge or other hiding-place. A little -ingenuity in this way will often procure a goodly stroke of success. -The other morning after a frost I caught fourteen blackbirds close to a -long laurel hedge, hiding myself in a large rhododendron. - -Sometimes hawks, and even birds of a non-preying but quite different -species to your call-bird, are caught in the clap-net. The former -usually pounces down upon or near the poor little play-bird, and thus -the biter is bitten. “Serve him right,” say you; so say I. The other -birds are probably only curious to know what it is all about. - -This kind of net is the best for amateurs, and I shall therefore not -describe that sort which is used by professionals for lark and other -birds at night time, often, I am sorry to say, when it is illegal, and -when partridges and pheasants can be taken. Kingfishers may be caught -by stretching a fine net loosely across an archway of a stream on which -they are known to be, and sparrows may be taken in any numbers from old -thatches, barn, rick, etc., at night in the following manner: - -Stretch your net on two cane poles and let two people carry it upright; -another holds a lantern at about the middle of this net on the outer -side from the barn to be “netted.” Let another, taking a long pole, -buffet about the interior under the eaves and in the nooks and -corners; the birds will then fly out and make for the light, only to -be entangled in the net. Beating the hedgerows at night will produce -the same effect; and, let me tell you, sparrow pudding is not to be -despised. - -Water-birds, such as dabchicks, moorhens, and even ducks, may be -taken by means of nets stretched across ditches and “drawns” which -they frequent. I have especially been successful with those little -nuisances of the fish culturist, the dabchick, or dapper as they are -called in some places, by means of a common dragnet, which I use for -trout catching in spawning time, but as my readers have already the -facilities I have in this direction, I need not say more about that -style of netting. - - - - -VIII. BIRD-CATCHING WITH TRAPS. - - -The word “trap” in the title of this book is intended to be made use -of in a somewhat wide and also narrow sense. Under it I shall include -what would otherwise be called a snare--namely, the “springe,” or -“springle.” On the other hand I shall make use of it in what may seem -a rather restricted sense, inasmuch as that I do not intend to tell -you how to catch birds by means of the “gin,” or steel trap. Mind -you, there are some birds--such as the magpie and crow--which it is -almost impossible to catch in any other manner. For them the deadly, -pain-dealing “gin” is justifiable. For the use of boys, I do not, -however, recommend it in bird-catching; it always maims if it does not -kill outright, and thus, should any of you desire to stuff the bird you -have captured, its injured plight is much against its appearance. - -The springe, as many of you know, is a horse-hair loop fixed to some -immovable object, such as the branch of a tree, etc. Mr. Montagu Brown, -in his “Practical Taxidermy,” thus describes the making of it. “Here,” -he says, “I have a black horsehair about two feet long; I double it, -holding it between the right hand finger and thumb, leaving a little -loose loop about half an inch long; from this point I proceed by an -overhand motion of the thumb to twist it up. On reaching the bottom I -make a small knot to prevent it unrolling, then pushing the knotted end -through the eye of the loop, I thus form a loose noose. I then attach -a piece of wire to the free end by a twisted loop (Fig. 7). With about -half a dozen of these coiled in an oval tin box I am ready to snare any -small bird whose haunt I may discover.” - -[Illustration: Fig. 7.] - -This springe is varied in a variety of ways, but it is remarkably -deadly for nearly all birds. The piece of wire is of course twisted -round a branch or other fixed point, and the noose, for such it is, is -so arranged that the bird pecks through it, and so gets “haltered.” -I always make my springes of silkworm gut, used in fishing, as being -stronger and practically invisible. - -Ducks, moorhens, and dabchicks can be caught with nooses or springes -made of a sufficient number of hairs or strands of gut, and suspended -to a line fixed across the ditches and small streams they are known to -frequent. A springe mounted as shown in Fig. 8 (A in 9) can also be -fixed in the ground, with the noose hanging over the probable spot of -emergence from the water of either of these birds. Their exact “run” -can easily be determined by the freshness of the excrement. Snipes are -to be taken by simply attaching the springe to a bullet and burying -this in the soft oose or mud where snipe are known to feed or run. -Plovers can be taken in a similar way. - -[Illustration: Fig. 8.] - -On the Continent, according to Mr. Box, the following is the method -of using the springe for the capture of thrushes and such birds. The -springes being made, the snarer cuts as many twigs about eighteen -inches in length as he intends hanging springes. There are two methods -of hanging them--in one the twig is bent in the form of figure 6, the -tail end running through a slit cut in the upper part of the twig. The -other way is to sharpen a twig at both ends, and insert the points into -a stem of underwood, thus forming a bow, of which the stem forms the -string below the springe, and hanging from the lower part of the bow is -placed a small branch with three or four berries of the mountain-ash; -this is fixed to the bow by inserting the stalk into a slit in the wood. - -The bird-catcher is provided with a basket, one compartment of which -holds his twigs, bent or straight, another his berries; his springes -being already attached to the twigs, he very rapidly drives his knife -into a lateral branch, and fixes them, taking care that the springe -hangs neatly in the middle of the bow, and that the lower part of -the springe is about three fingers’ breadth from the bottom. By this -arrangement the bird, alighting on the lower side of the bow, and -bending his neck to reach the berries below, places his head in the -noose, finding himself obstructed in his movements, attempts to fly -away, but the treacherous noose tightens around his neck, and he is -found by the sportsman hanging by the neck, a victim of misplaced -confidence. - -[Illustration: Fig. 9.] - -Another adaptation of the springe is shown at Fig. 9. It consists of -a wand of hazel, willow, or any other suitable wood, which is set in -the ground firmly. A short piece of string, hair, or gut connects it -with a cross piece of wood, and to this string also several (two or -more) horse-hair or gut springes are attached, set in precisely the -same manner as shown in Fig. 8. A in Fig. 9 is a piece of wood which -is so cut as to present an arm at right angles to the perpendicular. -This piece of wood is driven in the ground and the wand bent over; -the cross-piece is now placed to the edge of the arm of A, and there -retained as “ticklishly” as possible. - -On this fine setting everything depends. Now get some short grass and -cover up the cross-piece at A, so that it cannot be seen, then arrange -your hair springes on the surface, and strew some crumbs or grains of -rice, wheat, etc. The bird will settle on the cross-piece or on A, and -peck at the crumbs, etc., and then will be caught by the legs or head. -I have had excellent results with this. - -Another springle shown at Fig. 10 is a remarkably good one for -moorhens, or, in fact, any bird having a run, for the description of -which quote “Practical Trapping,” by Moorman (though, indeed, I believe -he got his description from Doucie’s “Rural Sports”). “The wand, or -spring-stick,” he says, “cross-piece and nooses as before, but instead -of the simple crutch use a complete bow with both ends stuck in the -ground. At some distance from this drive in a straight piece of stick; -next procure a piece of stick with a complete fork or crutch at one -end. To set it draw down the spring-stick and pull the cross-piece -under the bow by the top side farthest from the spring-stick. Now hold -it firmly with one hand while you place the forked stick with its -crutch pressing against the opposite upright stick and bring its free -end against the lower end of the cross-piece, and adjust as firmly as -you can. Finally arrange the nooses in such a manner that if one of -them or the crutched stick is touched the latter falls, and releasing -the cross-piece the spring-stick flies up and the bird with it.” (A) -indicates the cross-piece, (B) the forked stick, (C) the adjustment. -(Fig. 10). - -[Illustration: Fig. 10.] - - - - -IX. BIRD-CATCHING WITH TRAPS, ETC. - - -Yet another of the springle traps which I have seen used with very -great success for the capture of flesh-eating birds is shown in Fig. -11. A and B are two sapling oak or ash-trees, growing near each other. -Two holes are bored in A with a large gimlet; at C, in B, a wire loop -is attached, and the loop E is passed through the upper perforation, -as shown. At D a piece of cord with a round knot in it is passed -through after B is bent toward A. F is a piece of wood, the point of -which is shaped like a blunt cone, and this is sustained on the knot -in the position shown by the spring of B, being similar, in fact, to -the tongue of a wooden mole-trap, shown in a previous number. On this -piece of wood is tied a fresh lump of meat, or a pigeon’s egg may be -blown and stuck on. Indeed, any bait may be used, providing it is not -too heavy. The bird, of course, pecks strongly at it through the loop -E, and is instantly caught, or if it attempts to alight, which is often -the case, the noose catches it alive by the legs. My drawing is a rough -one, but sufficiently explains what is meant. - -[Illustration: Fig. 11.] - -I have thus given a brief sketch of what boys can do in bird-catching -with no more expense than a few cents--if we except the net, and that -need not cost much if one is disposed to make it. There are many other -traps which are variously successful. There is, for example, the -trap-cage, which contains on one side a decoy bird, and a very useful -one it is, and easily procured from a bird-fancier. Then there is the -old sieve and string and brick trap, about which no boy needs to be -told. I have taken twenty and thirty wild fowl in a night by baiting -with pieces of sheep’s lights or lungs a large eel-hook. Then again for -kingfishers there is a round spring-trap, which catches them by the -legs, and is cruel therefore. Herons may be taken on a baited hook--the -bait-fish, of course. When all is said and done, however, for general -bird-catching, where sport and not torture is the means here set forth -are decidedly the most satisfactory. - -First and foremost, however, if you would be successful, take this -practical counsel to yourself. Study the natures and habits of the -birds; the droppings and footprints will always indicate a favorite -resort. Why, I took a dozen birds the other day with half a dozen of -Figure 9 traps in less than four hours by simply setting and resetting -in the right places, and then retiring out of sight. - -And not merely out of sight, let me tell the tyro, but out of the -range of the sense of smell. Never get to windward of any birds if -you are intent on catching them. It is a curious fact amongst the -lower animals, especially those brought under domestication, that they -perceive and appreciate at its value against themselves the presence -of man by smell as well as sight. Creatures of prey, from the hatred -with which they are held, seem to possess this faculty in the highest -degree. Were it not so, indeed, the struggle for existence with them -would soon end, and many at least of the species--whether fish, flesh -or fowl--would become extinct as the dodo. - -The bird-lime itself is the next consideration under this heading. I do -not advise any boy to make it himself, but if he nevertheless chooses -to do so, here is a recipe which will produce a very good “lime.” Half -a pint of Linseed-oil should be put into an iron pot and carefully -boiled over the fire for four hours, or, in fact, till it thickens -sufficiently, stirring it repeatedly the while with a stick. The oil is -smooth when it boils. In order to ascertain when it is done take out -the stick and immerse it in water, after which see if it sticks to the -fingers. If it does, the oil is ready to be poured into cold water, -and thereafter placed in little flat tin boxes--the most convenient -receptacles, as they fit in the waistcoat pocket, and can be used as -required. - -Birdlime is also made from holly bark, but according to the directions -given in the “Encyclopædia Britannica” the process is much too -troublesome for boys, and as one can buy birdlime enough to stick -a flock of rooks together for a few pence from a professional -bird-catcher, life may be considered too short for that process at -this time. As I am some distance from a town, much less a professional -bird-catcher, I make mine as above, and find it little if any inferior -to that I have been in the habit of buying. - -During winter time, when frost and snow cover the earth, birdlime is -very useful, for at that time the “clap” net is of very little use. A -good plan then is to sweep a bare place anywhere near a plantation or -wooded garden, or even in the farm-yards, and having anointed a few -dozen wheat ears with the straw attached--or rather, having anointed -the straw for about a foot nearest the ear--to spread them about in the -patch. The birds will attempt to take the ears away, and will so get -limed and drop to the ground. You must very quickly pick them up or you -will lose some, as their struggles not infrequently release them, at -least partially, and they flutter out of reach. - -Sometimes it will be found that a few handfuls of oats, barley or -wheat thrown down where the limed straws are will be of service when -they do not seem to care for the wheat ears themselves. There is the -probability of the little fellows coming in contact with the ears, and -so getting limed. These methods are chiefly applicable, as I have said, -to cold weather. - -A different mode of procedure may be practiced when the weather is -very hot. Cut, say, a hundred twigs of some smooth, thin wood, such as -withy, and after liming, stick them down by the side of any rivulet of -water near woody growths, and of course not near a large tract of water -such as a lake or river. Cover over the stream with brush or fern, so -that the birds can come only by where your limed twigs are placed. I -have had remarkable sport in this way when the birds have been coming -to drink during the forenoon and afternoon. - -I tried an experiment for rooks with bird-lime some little time ago. We -all know that in winter, during a thaw, rooks will frequent pastures -in great numbers, especially if cattle be present. About fifty yards -to the west of where I am now sitting is a long waterside pasture, -and thousands of rooks could be seen digging right lustily. Rooks are -too strong and wily to be limed in the usual way with bristles or -twigs, so I made some paper cones--funnel-shaped, you know, like the -grocers use for packing sugar--and anointed the inside with bird-lime, -sticking also a few grains of wheat round the inner side. The result -was ridiculous in the extreme. After scattering a few grains of corn -about and placing about a dozen of these limed brown-paper funnels -in a likely manner, I retired to a distance, and with my field-glass -watched. A flock soon found out the scattered grain, and one after the -other the cones were inspected, but for some time no one ventured to -do more. Presently, however, after the loose grain was apparently all -eaten, one of the wily birds had the temerity to poke his head inside a -cone. The result was much to his evident surprise, for the cone stuck -tight, and there he was tumbling and attempting to fly with a foolscap -on which blindfolded him, and which stuck tight enough to allow me -time to go up and release the poor fellow. I did not kill him, for -old rook pie is by no means palatable. I tried this plan for a heron -which continually frequented a little pond wherein my last year’s trout -are kept, but did not succeed in capturing him, though he took both -the cone and fish used for a bait away somehow. Anyhow it has most -thoroughly frightened my gentleman, for I have not seen him since. - -One fine morning some time since I had a delightful ramble with a -quaint old character living hereabouts who gets his living by mole -and bird catching. Old “Twiddle” he is familiarly called. One faculty -he has, and that is a natural love for nature’s works and a gift of -observation which has, perhaps almost unknown to himself, forced him -into being a natural naturalist, if I may so use the expression. -He can tell any bird on the wing by its flight, he knows all the -fancies--some of them old, imagined fancies--of bees, each fly as it -flits from the water’s edge has a name, though far from being that -given it by science. No matter for that; a rose by any other name would -smell as sweet and old Twiddle can tell something of its life-history. -Well, Twiddle and I started on our ramble, and this was how he was -equipped. A cage containing a beautiful little cock gold-finch duly -and comfortably furnished with food and water, and protected from the -sharp though clear air of the bright November day by means of an old -silk handkerchief. Some dozen or two of prepared bristles, a small box -of birdlime, and a “dummy” or stuffed gold-finch set up on a branch of -wood with one end sharpened so that the latter could be stuck in the -ground and then the bird retained in any position deemed desirable. -The bristles were of the best shoemaker’s kind, and, were arranged in -bunches of three on a stout carpet-needle. - -By the by I have improved on these by substituting a fish-hook -straightened (see Fig. 6). To do this take an ordinary eel-hook and -make it red-hot in the gas or candle flame, holding it the while by -means of a pair of pliers. It can be readily straightened after this, -whether hot or cold, as the heating softens the wire. The utility of -the barb lies in the fact that the bird cannot by any chance fly away -with the bristle or lose it for you in its struggles, because of the -barb’s holding power when thrust into the branch of a tree, etc. - -But to return. Chatting about this and that we journeyed along till -after old Twiddle had craned his neck over a ledge to regard the -other side of a field he announced our walk for the present ended. -On creeping through a hole in the hedge this field turned out to be -a piece of evidently waste water meadow, so-called because the crops -are, as it were, manured with water from the neighboring river, and -a perfect little forest of thistles with their downy heads swaying -in the breeze indicated the probable presence of the goldfinch. Some -thorn-trees grew in a row down the center of the field, and hither and -thither the sparrows flitted amongst their branches busily chattering -the news of sparrowdom. But I saw no finches. “Twiddle,” said I, “where -are the goldfinches?” “Ye’ll see where they be, sir, presently,” he -answered, setting down the caged bird near the largest of the thorns. -“Now, Billy,” he added, speaking to the bird, “crow away,” and with -that he removed the handkerchief. Billy needed no second bidding, and -his little throat quivered and trembled with the glad song which came -thrilling forth. - -Twiddle now placed the dummy bird just beneath a branch of the thorn -close to the cage and so as to be easily seen, and all around it and -round the cage the bristles carefully limed were stuck. All was now -ready. We retired behind the hedge where we could see and not be seen. - -Presently the singing was answered and we saw a gold-finch hopping -about amongst the branches of the thorn. Suddenly it caught sight of -the dummy bird and with a pleased swiftness flew towards it. In another -second it had touched a limed bristle and was rolling over and over -hopelessly liming its wings with every fresh bristle it touched. - -Very carefully the little chap was dusted with a little fine earth -to mitigate the stickiness and placed in another cage which the -bird-catcher always carries for the wild birds. It is flat and long and -well supplied with food and water; in the upper part of it is a hole -sufficiently large to admit the hand, and to the two edges of this hole -is tacked the leg of an old stocking, which falls inwards. Then the -bird can easily be placed inside, but cannot escape, because the folds -of the stocking fold together. - -We caught five there and, as the market value of the birds was about -twenty-five cents, Twiddle, it must be owned, had a very profitable -morning’s work. Let me express a hope that my readers may be so -successful. - - * * * * * - - - - -The Art of Stretching and Curing Skins. - - -The market value of skins are greatly affected by the care used in -skinning and curing. We take the following from The Trapper’s Guide, -the best known authority on these matters: - -In drying skins it is important that they should be stretched tight -like a strained drum head. This can be done after a fashion by simply -nailing them flat on a wide board or a barn door. But this method, -besides being impracticable on a large scale in the woods (where most -skins have to be cured) is objectionable, because it exposes only one -side of the pelt to the air. The stretchers that are generally approved -and used by good trappers, are of three kinds, adapted to the skins of -different classes of animals, and shall call them the board-stretcher, -the bow-stretcher, and the hoop-stretcher, and will describe them, -indicating the different animals to which each is adapted. - - * * * * * - -THE BOARD-STRETCHER.--This contrivance is made in the following manner: -Prepare a board of bass-wood or other light material, two feet three -inches long, three inches and a half wide at one end, and two inches -and an eighth at the other, and three-eighths of an inch thick. Chamfer -it from the center to the sides almost to an edge. Round and chamfer -the small end about an inch up on the sides. Split this board through -the center with a knife or saw. Finally, prepare a wedge of the same -length and thickness, one inch wide at the large end, and tapering -to three-eighths of an inch at the small end, to be driven between -the halves of the board. This is a stretcher suitable for a mink or a -marten. Two larger sizes, with similar proportions, are required for -the larger animals. The largest size, suitable for the full grown otter -or wolf, should be five feet and a half long, seven inches wide at the -large end when fully spread by the wedge, and six inches at the small -end. An intermediate size is required for the fisher, raccoon, fox, and -some other animals, the proportions of which can be easily figured out. - -These stretchers require that the skin of the animal should not be -ripped through the belly, but should be stripped off whole. This is -done in the following manner: Commence with the knife at the hind feet, -and slit down to the vent. Cut around the vent, and strip the skin from -the bone of the tail with the help of the thumb nail or a split slick. -Make no other slits in the skin, except in the case of the otter, whose -tail requires to be split, spread, and tacked on to the board. Peel -the skin from the body by drawing it over itself, leaving the fur side -inward. - -In this condition the skin should be drawn on to the split board, (with -the back on one side and the belly on the other) to its utmost length, -and fastened with tacks or by notches cut in the edge of the board, and -then the wedge should be driven between the two halves. Finally, make -all fast by a tack at the root of the tail, and another on the opposite -side. The skin is then stretched to its utmost capacity, as a boot-leg -is stretched by the shoe-maker’s “tree,” and it may be hung away in the -proper place, by a hole in one end of the stretcher, and left to dry. - -A modification of this kind of stretcher, often used in curing the -skins of the muskrat and other small animals, is a simple board, -without split or wedge, three-sixteenths of an inch thick, twenty -inches long, six inches wide at the large end, and tapering to five and -a half inches at six inches from the small end, chamfered and rounded -as in the other cases. The animal should be skinned as before directed, -and the skin drawn tightly on to the board and fastened with about four -tacks. Sets of these boards, sufficient for a muskrat campaign, can -easily be made and transported. They are very light and take up but -little room in packing, thirty-two of them making but six inches in -thickness. - - * * * * * - -THE BOW STRETCHER.--The most common way of treating the muskrat is to -cut off its feet with a hatchet, and rip with a knife from between the -two teeth in the lower jaw, down the belly, about two inches below -where the fore-legs come out. Then the skin is started by cutting -around the lips, eyes, and ears, and is stripped over the body with -the fur side inward. Finally a stick of birch, water-beech, ironwood, -hickory, or elm, an inch in diameter at the butt, and three feet and a -half long, is bent into the shape of an oxbow and shoved into the skin, -which is drawn tight, and fastened by splitting down a sliver in the -bow and drawing the skin of the lip into it. - -This method is too common to be easily abolished, and is tolerable when -circumstances make it necessary; but the former method of stretching -by a tapering board, in the case of muskrats as well as other small -animals, is much the best. Skins treated in that way keep their proper -shape, and pack better than those stretched on bows, and in the long -run boards are more economical than bows, as a set of them can be used -many times, and will last several years, whereas bows are seldom used -more than once, being generally broken in taking out. - - * * * * * - -THE HOOP STRETCHER.--The skins of large animals, such as the beaver and -the bear, are best dried by spreading them, at full size, in a hoop. -For this purpose, a stick of hickory or other flexible wood should be -cut, long enough to entirely surround the skin when bent. (If a single -stick long enough is not at hand, two smaller ones can be spliced -together.) The ends should be brought around, lapped, and tied with a -string or a withe of bark. The skin should be taken from the animal by -ripping from the lower front teeth to the vent, and peeling around the -lips, eyes, and ears, but without ripping up the legs. It should then -be placed inside the hoop and fastened at opposite sides, with twine -or bark, till all loose parts are taken up, and the whole stretched so -that it is nearly round and as tight as a drum-head. When it is dry it -may be taken from the hoop, and is ready for packing and transportation. - -This is the proper method of treating the skin of the deer. Some prefer -it for the wolf and raccoon. In many cases the trapper may take his -choice between the hoop and the board method. One or the other methods -will be found satisfactory for curing all kinds of skins. - - - - -Dressing and Tanning Skins and Furs. - - - * * * * * - -DRESSING SKINS WITH FUR WOOL ON.--The cheapest and readiest as well as -the best method of dressing skins for use with the hair or wool on, is -to first scrape off all the fat with a knife rather blunt on the edge, -so as not to cut holes into the hide, upon a round smooth log. The log -for convenience sake should have a couple of legs in one end, like a -tressle; the other end should rest upon the ground. - -After the fat is well cleaned off, take the brains of the animal, or -the brains of any other recently killed, and work them thoroughly -into the hide. This renders the hide pliable. Then to preserve from -the ravages of insects scatter on it some powdered alum and a little -saltpeter. If the hair side has become greasy, a little weak lye will -take it out. Sheep-skins may be dressed in the same way, though the -wool should be cleaned with soapsuds before using the brains. Another -way, but more expensive, is to use a paste made of the yolk of eggs and -whiting instead of brains, working it in the same way, letting it dry -and brushing off the whiting. Then add the powdered alum as before. -Deer-skins and even small calf-skins are often tawed as the process -is called with the hair on for garments. If it is desired to give the -deer-skin a yellow color, yellow ocher or chrome yellow may be used in -combination with the brains or yolks of eggs and afterwards brushed off. - -If it is simply desired to preserve skins until they are sold, it is -only necessary to dry them thoroughly. If the weather should be damp -and warm, salt the flesh side slightly with fine salt. - - * * * * * - -WITHOUT THE WOOL OR HAIR.--Sheep-skin, deer-skin, dog-skin, calf-skin, -&c., for gloves, &c., are also tawed, but the hair must be taken off. -The skins are first soaked in warm water, scraped on the flesh side to -get off fat, and hung in a warm room until they begin to give a slight -smell of hartshorn. The wool or fur then comes off rapidly. The hair -side should now be thoroughly scraped against the hair. The skin is -next soaked two or three weeks in weak lime water, changing the water -two or three times. Then they are brought out again, scraped smooth -and trimmed. Then rinsed in clean water, then soaked in wheat bran -and water for two or three weeks. After this they are well stirred -around in pickle of alum, salt and water. Then they are thrown again -into the bran and water for two or three days. Then stretched and -dried somewhat in a warm room. After this they are soaked in warm -water and then worked or trodden on in a trough or pail filled with -yolk of eggs, salt, alum, flour and water, beaten to a froth. They are -finally stretched and dried in an airy room, and last of all smoothed -with a warm smoothing iron. This makes the beautiful leather we see in -gloves, military trimmings, &c. The proportions for the egg paste are -as follows: 3-1/2 pounds salt, 8 pounds alum, 21 pounds wheat flour and -yolks of nine dozen eggs. Make a paste with water, dissolving first the -alum and salt. A little of this paste is used as wanted with a great -deal of water. - -Chamois skin and deer skins not wanted for gloves are similarly -treated up to the point of treating with egg paste. Instead of using -this process, they are oiled on the hair side with very clean animal -oil, rolled into balls and thrown into the trough of a fulling mill, -well beaten two or three hours, aired, re-oiled, beaten again and the -process repeated a third time. They are then put into a warm room -until they begin to give out a decided smell, then scoured in weak -lye to take out superfluous grease. Here the intention is merely to -get a thick felt-like skin of good color, a nicely grained surface is -not required as in gloves. The skins are finally rinsed, wrung out, -stretched and dried, and when nearly dry, slightly rub with a smooth, -hard, round stick. - -These are the fine processes. A dried skin oiled so as to become smooth -and pliable will retain the hair or wool a considerable time. - -Or it may be made more durable where the color of the flesh side is no -object by scraping, washing in soapsuds and then putting directly into -the tan pit. For ordinary purposes rabbit, squirrel and other small -skins can be efficiently preserved with the hair by the application of -powdered alum and fine salt, put on them when fresh, or if not fresh -by dampening them first. Squirrel skins when wanted without the hair -will tan very well in wheat bran tea, the fat and hair having been -previously removed by soaking in lime-water and scraping. Old tea -leaves afford tannin enough for small skins, but they give a color -not nearly so pleasant as bran. Almost any of the barks afford tannin -enough for small skins--willow, pine, poplar, hemlock of course, -sumach, etc. - - - - -Coloring or Dyeing Skins and Furs. - - -Furs are dyed by dealers, to suit some fashion, to conceal defects or -to pass off inferior furs for better ones. - -The best way is to brush the dye over the fur with a good sponge, -brushing with the hair. As a matter of course, you can only dye them -of a darker color than they are, and retain the handsome lustrous look -peculiar to fur. They may be bleached, but the process leaves the fur -looking like coarse flax or even hemp. - - * * * * * - -BLUE.--Sulphate of indigo, (soluble indigo, sold by all druggists,) -is the readiest and best to get a blue with. Furs are never dyed blue -for sale, for that would be spoiling a white fur, but sheep-skins are. -The skin should be dipped several times in a bath of hot alum water, -allowed to drain, and then dipped into a solution of sulphate of indigo -and water, with a few drops of sulphuric acid added, this gives a pale -blue. Aniline blue is very fine, and dyeing with it is very simple. A -solution of the color in water is made, a hot solution, and the skin -put in all at once, (if a part of the skin is put in first that part -will be darkest, so quick is the absorption of these colors). Fancy -sheep-skin mats are colored blue, red, green, and yellow, and have a -ready sale when they are new. - - * * * * * - -BLACK.--The best black is obtained by first dyeing the skin a -blue. Then boil one-quarter pound gall nuts, powdered, and one and -one-quarter ounces of logwood, in three gallons of water. If the flesh -side is to be blue, while the fur or wool is another, this decoction -must be sponged on. - -Get the wool or hair thoroughly impregnated with this and then add -one-quarter pound copperas to the dye and go over the fur or wool -many times with the sponge. The process above given will answer -without previous blueing, but the black is not so brilliant. Another -“home-made” dye which will answer for dyeing clothes a black, as well -as sheep-skins, is this: Just make a bath of eight ounces of bichromate -of potash, six ounces alum, four ounces fustic; boil in water enough to -cover five pounds of yarn, cloth or a single sheep-skin. Make another -bath of four pounds of logwood, four ounces each bar wood and fustic, -or eight ounces fustic; same amount of boiling water as last. Stir the -goods well around in the first bath, keeping the water hot for an hour; -then work it in the second bath the same length of time. Take them and -wring them; then, adding one-quarter pound of copperas to the last -bath, put the goods in again and give them a good stirring. This is a -good black dye for wool goods or furs, but not for silks or cottons. - - * * * * * - -RED.--Furs of course are never dyed red, at least in this country. -Sheep-skins might be dyed with madder or cochineal, but in the former -case, the skin would of necessity be boiled with the dye, as that is -necessary in using madder. Cochineal would be expensive and require -much working, while as brilliant reds and purples may be got from the -aniline colors, dissolved in moderately warm water, the skum taken -off, and skin dipped. These colors are the cheapest, too, as they go -very far. But always have the wool as free from grease as possible by -working in weak hot lye or hot soapsuds. - - * * * * * - -YELLOW.--Can be got on sheep-skins with black oak bark, (quercitron -bark) old fustic, annotta, and Persian (also called French) berries. -The skin should be previously dipped into a hot bath of alum, cream of -tartar or spirit of tin, about two ounces to the gallon. About one-half -pound of annotta, or a pound of the other articles, are enough for a -single skin. If you wish to use fustic, be particular to ask for old -fustic, as what is known in the trade as young fustic, is a different -article and gives a different color. There is also now an aniline -yellow which works like the other colors. - - * * * * * - -GREEN.--Dye first blue as explained above, then pass through a yellow -dye, until you get the shade required. An alum bath, cream of tartar, -or spirits of tin, as above, must be used before the blue is given. - - * * * * * - -PRESERVATION OF FURS.--While in use furs should be occasionally combed. -When not wanted, dry them first, then let them cool, and mix among -them bitter apples from the druggists, in small muslin bags, sewing -them in several folds of linen, carefully turned in at the edges and -kept from damp. Camphor or pepper used in the same manner, will have a -similar effect. Well cleaned furs are much less liable to be attacked -by moths, than those affording rich repasts of dried flesh, though no -furs are absolutely safe without great watchfulness. Wrapping well in -good brown paper and keeping in a tight paper box, are all helps to the -preservation of furs. Sunshine and fresh air kill the fur and wool moth -grub. Therefore taking out the furs occasionally and airing, sunning -and beating them is necessary. - - * * * * * - -TO TAN MUSKRAT SKINS WITH THE FUR ON.--First for soaking, to 10 gallons -of cold soft water add 8 parts of wheat bran, 1/2 pint of old soap, 1 -ounce of borax; by adding 2 ounces of sulphuric acid, the soaking may -be done in one-half the time. If the hides have not been salted, add a -pint of salt. Green hides should not be soaked more than 8 or 10 hours. -Dry ones should soak till very soft. - -For tan liquor, to ten gallons warm soft water add 1/2 bushel bran; -stir well and let stand in a warm room till it ferments. Then add -slowly 2-1/2 pounds sulphuric acid; stir all the while. Muskrat hides -should remain in about 4 hours. Then take out and rub with a fleshing -knife--an old chopping knife with the edge taken off will do. Then work -it over a beam until entirely dry. - - - - -Some Additional Valuable Miscellaneous Information Useful Alike to the -Hunter, Trapper and Angler. - - - * * * * * - -HINTS TO TRAPPERS.--The skins of animals trapped are always valued -higher than those shot, as shot not only make holes, but frequently -plow along the skin, making furrows, as well as shaving off the fur. -To realize the utmost for skins they must be taken care of, and also -cleaned and prepared properly. Newhouse gives these general rules -derived from experience. - -1. Be careful to visit your traps often enough, so that the skin will -not have time to get tainted. - -2. As soon as possible after the animal is dead and dry, attend to the -skinning and curing. - -3. Scrape off all superfluous flesh and fat, and be careful not to go -so deep as to cut the fiber of the skin. - -4. Never dry a skin by the fire or in the sun, but in a cool, shady -place, sheltered from rain. If you use a barn door for a stretcher (as -boys sometimes do), nail the skin on the inside of the door. - -5. Never use preparations of any kind in curing skins, nor even wash -them in water, but simply stretch and dry them as they are taken from -the animal. - - * * * * * - -TO DRESS BEAVER SKINS.--You must rip the skin the same as you would a -sheep. Stretch it in all ways as much as possible; then it is to be -dressed with equal parts of rock salt and alum dissolved in water, and -made about as thick as cream, by stirring in coarse flour. This should -be spread on nearly half an inch thick, and scraped off when dry, and -repeated if one time is not enough. This same process of dressing -applies likewise to otter skins. - - * * * * * - -TO TRAP QUAIL.--A quail trap may be any kind of coop, supported by a -figure 4. The spindle of the figure must either be so made as to hold -grain, or, what is better, some grains of wheat or buckwheat are strung -over a strong thread with the aid of a needle, and tied to the spindle. -Quails and prairie hens easily enter a trap when the ground is covered -with snow. At other times it is rather difficult to catch them. - - * * * * * - -TO TRAP WILD TURKEY.--A wild turkey trap is made by first digging a -ditch; then over one end is built a rude structure of logs, covered at -the top. - -The structure should not be tight, but, of course, sufficiently close -not to let the birds through. Indian corn is scattered about and in the -ditch, and inside of the pen. The turkeys follow up corn in the ditch, -and emerge from it on the inside. Once there, the silly birds never -think of descending into the ditch, but walk round and round the pen, -looking through the chinks of the logs for escape that way. To make all -sure, the ditch should end about the centre of the pen, and a bridge -of sticks, grass and earth should be built over the ditch, just inside -of the pen, and close to the logs; otherwise, in going around the bird -might step inside the ditch, and once there, it would follow the light -and thereby reach the outside of the pen. - - * * * * * - -TO CATCH MUSKRATS WITHOUT TRAPS.--It is a mystery to many how muskrats, -beavers, and other animals, are able to remain so long under water, -apparently without breathing, especially in winter. The way they -manage is, they take in a good breath at starting, and then remain -under water as long as possible. Then they rise up to the ice and -breathe out the air in their lungs, which remains in a bubble against -the lower part of the ice. - -The water near the ice is highly charged with oxygen, which it readily -imparts to the air breathed out. After a time, this air is taken back -in the lungs, and the animal again goes under the water, repeating -this process from time to time. In this way they can travel almost any -distance, and live almost any length of time under the ice. The hunter -takes advantage of this habit of the muskrat in the following manner. -When the marshes and ponds where the muskrat abounds are first frozen -over, and the ice is thin and clear, on striking into their houses -with his hatchet, for the purpose of setting his trap, he frequently -sees a whole family plunge into the water and swim away under the ice. -Following one for some distance, he sees him come up to recover his -breath, in the manner above described. After the animal has breathed -against the ice, and before he has time to take his bubble in again, -the hunter strikes with his hatchet directly over him, and drives him -away from his breath. In this case he drowns in swimming a few rods, -and the hunter, cutting a hole in the ice, takes him out. - - * * * * * - -BLEACHING WOOL ON TANNED PELTS.--Put an old pot or other iron vessel in -the bottom of a hogshead, and in the vessel a roll of brimstone. Fasten -near the top a stick or two to place the skin on. The wool must be wet -when hung on the sticks. Heat an old iron red hot, or take live coals -to start the brimstone. When it is burning briskly, cover the hogshead -tight to keep the smoke in. If not white enough, repeat the process. - -The Esquimaux mode of tanning is very simple, and the material employed -the cheapest and cost accessible of any used in the art, viz: the urine -of man and beast. The skins are prepared in the fur, and softened and -tanned in urine, which is usually kept in tubs in the porches of their -huts, for use in dressing deer, seal and other skins. They show great -skill in the preparation of whale, seal and deer skins, and these, on -the whole, are equal to the best oil skins made in England. It imparts -to them firmness and durability, and makes them waterproof. The boots -worn by the Esquimaux are generally made from seal or walrus hides, and -resist the encroachments of water. - - * * * * * - -HAWK AND OWL TRAPS.--To catch hawks or owls, take a pole 20 feet long, -to be set a short distance from the house or barn or on the poultry -house. Split the top so as to admit the base of a common steel trap, -which should be made fast. When both trap and pole are set you may be -sure of game of some kind. These birds naturally light on high objects, -such as dead branches of trees or tops of stacks, and one should use -judgment about the place where he puts the traps. An open field near -the chicken yard is probably the best. - - * * * * * - -DOMESTIC MANUFACTURE OF FURS.--The skins of raccoons, minks, muskrats, -rabbits, foxes, deer, cats, dogs, woodchucks and skunks are all -valuable. Handsome robes may be made from the skins of the last two -animals, and the writer has seen fur coats made from the skins of -woodchucks, well tanned, dyed and trimmed, which were elegant as well -as comfortable, and no one but a connoisseur would be able to guess -their origin. Of the finer and nicer furs, beautiful collars, muffs, -cuffs, caps, gloves and trimmings may be made with a little ingenuity -and perseverance; and who would not feel a greater satisfaction in -wearing a nice article, from the fact that it was something of their -own manufacture--a product of their own taste and genius? - -Very handsome floor-mats are made by tanning sheep pelts and dyeing -them some bright color, which is done with very little trouble; the art -of dyeing is now so familiar to almost every household. Furs may be -dyed as easily as woolen goods, notwithstanding the impression that it -is an art known only to the trade. Any dye that will color woolens will -also dye furs, only care must be taken not to have the dye too hot, or -the texture of the skin will be injured. - -The mode of tanning usually followed by city furriers is to rub the -skins well with rancid butter, then tread them thoroughly in a tub or -vat, after which a large quantity of sawdust is mixed with them, and -the process of treading continued until all the grease is absorbed, -when they are finished off by beating, working and rubbing with chalk -and potter’s clay, whipping and brushing. An old trapper practiced this -method with small skins, first washing with a suds of soap and sal-soda -to free them from grease, then rinsing in clear water to cleanse them -from the suds, then rubbing as dry as possible, after which they were -put in a mixture of two ounces of salt to a quart of water, added -to three quarts of milk or bran-water containing one ounce of best -sulphuric acid, and stirred briskly for forty or fifty minutes; from -this they are taken dripping into a strong solution of sal-soda and -stirred till they will no longer foam; they are then hung to dry, when -they are very soft and pliable. - -A very good and simple process in use among farmers is to sprinkle the -flesh side, after scraping it well, with equal parts of pulverized alum -and salt, or washing it well with a strong solution of the same, then -folding the flesh side together and rolling it compactly, in which -state it should remain for eight or ten days; then it is opened, -sprinkled with bran or sawdust to absorb the moisture, and rolled up -again, and after remaining twenty-four hours, the process is completed -by a thorough rubbing and manipulation, on which the pliability -depends. Skins, when taken off, should be freed from grease or flesh -by thorough scraping, when they may be dried, and left to await the -leisure of the owner. Previous to tanning they must be well soaked and -wrung dry. - -It is no extravagance to assert that every farmer’s family may furnish -their own fur collars, gloves, robes, and other articles of dress and -ornament, with trifling expense, from the resources within their own -reach; but from want of more knowledge on the subject valuable skins -are wasted or disposed of for a mere fraction of their real value, -and articles of apparel that should be made from them are bought at -extravagant prices of fur dealers. - - * * * * * - -INDIAN MODE OF TANNING BUFFALO SKINS.--The hard and incessant labor -that is necessary to properly “Indian tan” a robe is not easily to -realize unless one may see the work go on day by day from the first -step, which is to spread out the pelt or undressed hide upon the -ground, where it is pinned fast by means of wooden pins driven through -little cuts in the edge of the robe into the earth. The flesh side of -the robe, being uppermost, is then worked over by two and sometimes -three squaws. The tools used are very rude, some being simply provided -with sharp stones or buffalo bones. Others, more wealthy, have a -something that much resembles a drawing-knife or shave of the cooper. -The work in hand is to free the hide from every particle of flesh, and -to reduce the thickness of the robe nearly one half, and sometimes even -more. - -This fleshing, as it is termed, having been thoroughly accomplished, -the hide is thoroughly moistened with water in which the buffalo -brains have been steeped. For ten days the hide is kept damp with this -brain water. Once each day the hide is taken up and every portion of -it rubbed and re-rubbed by the squaws, who do not have recourse to -anything like a rubbing-board, but use their hands until it would seem -as if the skin would soon be worn off. There seems to be no definite -rule as to the length of time which the robe shall occupy in curing. -The squaw labors until the hide becomes a robe, which may require the -work of one week or two, sometimes even more; but I think that ten days -may be considered as the average time which it takes to properly cure a -robe. - - * * * * * - -TO DRESS DEER SKINS.--Put the skin into the liquid while warm, viz: -eight quarts rain water to one pint soft soap. Warm it. Then punch the -hide, or work it with a soft stick, and let it lay one day. It is then -to be taken out and wrung--rolled between two logs--or even a wringing -machine will be better. Then stretch it until it is dry, in the sun is -best, or by a hot fire. Then oil it thoroughly with any oil convenient. - -It should then be treated to the same bath of suds (heated quite warm), -and lay another day. Then pull it out and dry as before. Any oil will -do, but good fresh butter is better than anything else. When the skin -is dry rub it with ochre, which will give it a splendid yellow color. - - * * * * * - -TANNING AND BUFFING FOR DEER SKIN GLOVES.--For each skin take a bucket -of water and put into it 1 quart of lime; let the skin or skins lay in -from 3 to 4 days; then rinse in clean water, hair and grain; then soak -them in cold water to get out the glue; now scour or pound in good soap -suds for half an hour; after which take white vitriol, alum and salt, -one tablespoon of each to a skin; this will be dissolved in sufficient -water to cover the skin and remain in it for 24 hours; wring out as dry -as convenient, and spread on with a brush 1/2 pint of currier’s oil, -and hang in the sun about two days; after which you will scour out the -oil with soap suds, and hang out again until perfectly dry; then pull -and work them until they are soft; and if a reasonable time does not -make them soft, scour out in suds again as before, until complete. - -The oil may be saved by pouring or taking it from the top of the suds, -if left standing a short time. The buff color is given by spreading -yellow ochre evenly over the surface of the skin, when finished, -rubbing it in well with a brush. - - * * * * * - -DYEING FOR BUCKSKIN, (Buff.)--5 parts of whiting to 2 parts of ochre -(yellow), and mix them with water to a paste; make into cakes and dry. -When a dressed skin is dry, rub one of the balls over the surface; -rub the powder in. Take a piece of sand-paper and raise a nap on the -leather by going over it. (Black.)--Take clear logwood; after it is -dry use copperas water to blacken it. Be careful and not use too much. -(Dark Brown.)--5 pounds of oak bark; 4 pounds of fustic; 14 ounces of -logwood. Use alum water (strong) to make it strike in. (Drab.)--Mix -blue clay with soft soap; add blue vitriol to shade the color. It can -be made any shade you wish. - - * * * * * - -DYEING FOR MOROCCO AND SHEEP LEATHER.--The following colors may be -imparted to leather, according to the various uses for which it is -intended. (Blue.)--Blue is given by steeping the subject a day in urine -and indigo, then boiling it with alum; or it may be given by tempering -the indigo with red wine, and washing the skins therewith. - -(Another.)--Boil elderberries or dwarf elder, then smear and wash -the skins therewith and wring them out; then boil the elderberries -as before in a solution of alum water, and wet the skins in the -same manner once or twice; dry them, and they will be very blue. -(Red.)--Red is given by washing the skin and laying them two hours -in galls, then wringing them out, dipping them in a liquor made with -ligustrum, alum and verdigris; in water, and lastly in a dye made of -Brazil wood boiled with lye. (Purple.)--Purple is given by wetting the -skins with a solution of roche alum in warm water, and when dry, again -rubbing them with the hand with a decoction of logwood in cold water. -(Green.)--Green is given by smearing the skin with sap green and alum -water, boiled. (Dark Green.)--Dark green is given with steel filings -and sal ammoniac, steeped in urine till soft, then smeared over the -skin, which is to be dried in the shade. (Yellow.)--Yellow is given -by smearing the skin over with aloes and linseed oil, dissolved and -strained, or by infusing it in weld. (Light Orange.)--Orange color is -given by smearing it with fustic berries boiled in alum water, or, -for a deep orange, with turmeric. (Sky color.)--Sky color is given -with indigo steeped in boiling water, and the next morning warmed and -smeared over the skin. - - * * * * * - -OPERATION OF TANNING.--The first operation is to soak the hide, as no -hide can be properly tanned unless it has been soaked and broken on a -fleshing beam. If the hide has not been salted add a little salt and -soak it in soft water. In order to be thoroughly soaked, green hides -should remain in this liquor from 9 to 12 days; of coarse the lime -varies with the thickness of the hide. The following liquor is used -to remove hair or wool, viz: 10 gallons cold water (soft), 8 quarts -slacked lime, and same quantity of wood ashes. Soak until the hair or -wool will pull off easily. - -As it frequently happens it is desirable to cure the hide and keep the -hair clean, the following paste should be made, viz: equal parts of -lime and hard-wood ashes, (lime should be slacked,) and made into a -paste with soft water. This should be spread on the flesh side of the -hide and the skin rolled up, flesh side in, and placed in a tub, just -covering it with water. It should remain 10 days, or until the hair -will pull out easily, then scrape off with a knife. - - * * * * * - -TO DEODERIZE SKUNK SKINS.--To deoderize skunk skins or articles for -clothing scented, hold them over a fire of red cedar boughs, and -sprinkle with chloride of lime; or wrap them in green hemlock boughs -when they are to be had, and in 24 hours they will be cleansed. - - * * * * * - -HOW TO SHOOT SNIPE.--To the beginner no bird is more puzzling, and, -therefore, more difficult to shoot. Its flight is most uncertain, most -variable, and most irregular--rising at one time as evenly as a lark, -and flying close to the ground with scarcely the slightest deviation -from a straight line; at another, springing from the ground as if -fired from a gun, and then flying in a zig-zag course to the right or -left, and, indeed, in every direction; and sometimes, again, rising -to a great height, and then going straight away with the rapidity of -lightning. And yet, with all these apparent difficulties, when the -knack is once acquired, it becomes comparatively easy--indeed, is -reduced almost to a certainty. The great art in this kind of shooting -is coolness, and to avoid too much hurry. And, in this, as in every -other kind of shooting, the first sight is the best; the moment you -are “well on” your bird, the trigger should be pulled. In cross shots, -fire well before your bird. Contrary to the usual practice, you should -always walk down wind; the reason for this is that snipe always rise -against it. Sometimes snipe are very wild, and at others will lie until -they are almost trodden upon. If there be much wind, your best chance -is to “down with them” as soon as they rise from the ground, or you -have little hope of getting a bag. - - * * * * * - -PRESEVERATIVES FOR SKINS.--The best material for the preseveration of -skins of animals consists in powdered arsenious acid, or the common -arsenic of the shops. This may be used in two ways: either applied in -dry powder on the moist skin, or, still better, mixed with alcohol or -water to the consistency of molasses, and put on with a brush. Some -camphor may be added to the alcoholic solution, and a little strychnine -will undoubtedly increase its efficacy. There are no satisfactory -substitutes for arsenic, but, in its entire absence, corrosive -sublimate, camphor, alum, etc., may be employed. - -Many persons prefer the arsenical soap to the pure arsenic. This is -composed of the following ingredients, arsenic, 1 ounce; white soap, 1 -ounce; carbonate of potash, 1 dram; water, 6 drams; camphor, 2 drams. -Cut the soap into thin slices, and melt over a slow fire with the -water, stirring it continually; when dissolved, remove from the fire, -and add the potash and arsenic by degrees; dissolve the camphor in a -little alcohol, and when the mixture is nearly cold, stir it in. - -The proper materials for stuffing out skins will depend much upon the -size of the animal. For small birds and quadrupeds, cotton will be -found most convenient; for the larger, tow; for those still larger, -dry grass, straw, sawdust, bran, or other vegetable substances, may -be used. Whatever substance be used, care must be taken to have it -perfectly dry. Under no circumstances should animal matter, as hair, -wool, or feathers, be employed. - -The bills and loral region, as well as the legs and feet of birds, -and the ears, lips and toes of mammals, may, as most exposed to the -ravages of insects, be washed with an alcoholic solution of strychnine -applied with a brush to the dried skin; this will be an almost certain -safeguard against injury. - - * * * * * - -FISHING WITH NATURAL FLY.--This consists in fishing with the natural -flies, grasshoppers, etc., which are found on the banks of the -rivers or lakes where you are fishing. It is practiced with a long -rod, running tackle, and fine line. When learning this system of -angling, begin by fishing close under the banks, gradually increasing -your distance until you can throw your live bait across the stream, -screening yourself behind a tree, a bush, or a cluster of weeds, -otherwise you will not have the satisfaction of lifting a single fish -out of the water. In rivers where immense quantities of weeds grow in -the summer, so as almost to check the current, you must fish where the -stream runs most rapidly, taking care that in throwing your line into -those parts you do not entangle it among the weeds. Draw out only as -much line as will let the fly touch the surface, and if the wind is at -your back it will be of no material service to you in carrying the fly -lightly over the water. In such places the water is generally still, -and your bait must, if possible, be dropped with no more noise than the -living fly would make if it fell into the water. - -Keep the top of your rod a little elevated, and frequently raise and -depress it and move it to and fro very gently, in order that the fly -by its shifting about may deceive the fish and tempt them to make a -bite. The instant your bait is taken, strike smartly, and if the fish -is not so large as to overstrain and snap your tackle, haul it out -immediately, as you may scare away many while trying to secure one. -There are very many baits which may be used with success in natural fly -fishing, of which, however, we shall content ourselves with enumerating -some of the most usual and useful. - -Wasps, hornets and bumble bees are esteemed good baits for dace, eels, -roach, bream and chub; they should be dried in an oven over the fire, -and if not overdone, they will keep a long while. - - * * * * * - -HOW TO SELECT FURS.--In purchasing furs, a sure test of what dealers -call a “prime” fur is the length and density of the down next the skin; -this can be readily determined by blowing a brisk current of air from -the mouth against the set of fur. If the fibers open readily, exposing -the skin to the view, reject the article; but if the down is so dense -that the breath cannot penetrate it, or at most shows but a small -portion of the skin, the article may be accepted. - - * * * * * - -TO CLEAN FURS.--Strip the fur articles of their stuffing and binding, -and lay them as much as possible in a flat position. They must then be -subjected to a very brisk brushing, with a stiff clothes brush; after -that, any moth-eaten parts must be cut out, and be neatly replaced by -new bits of fur to match. Sable, chinchilla, squirrel, fitch, etc., -should be treated as follows: Warm a quantity of new bran in a pan, -taking care that it does not burn, to prevent which it must be actively -stirred. When well warmed, rub it thoroughly into the fur with the -hand. Repeat this two or three times; then shake the fur, and give -it another sharp brushing until free from dust. White furs, ermine, -etc., may be cleaned as follows: Lay the fur on the table, and rub it -well with bran made moist with warm water; rub until quite dry, and -afterward with dry bran. The wet bran should be put on with flannel, -and the dry with a piece of book-muslin. - -The light furs, in addition to the above, should be well rubbed with -magnesia, or a piece of book-muslin after the bran process. Furs are -usually much improved by stretching, which may be managed as follows: -to a pint of soft water add three ounces of salt; dissolve; with this -solution sponge the inside of the skin (taking care not to wet the -fur) until it becomes thoroughly saturated; then lay it carefully on -a board with the fur side downward, in its natural disposition, then -stretch as much as it will bear, to the required shape, and fasten with -small tacks. The drying may be quickened by placing the skin a little -distance from the fire or stove. - - * * * * * - -FISHING WITH ARTIFICIAL FLY.--Artificial fly fishing consists in the -use of imitations of these flies and of other fancy flies, and is -unquestionably the most scientific mode of angling, requiring great -tact and practice to make the flies with neatness and to use them -successfully, and calling forth as it does so much more skill than the -ordinary method of bottom fishing, it merits its superior reputation. - -It possesses many advantages over bottom fishing, but at the same time -it has its disadvantages; it is much more cleanly in its preparations, -inasmuch as it does not require the angler to grub for clay and work up -a quantity of ground baits, and is not so toilsome in its practice, for -the only encumbrances which the fly fisher has are simply a light rod, -a book of flies and whatever fish he may chance to catch; but there are -several kinds of fish which will not rise at a fly, and even those that -do will not be lured from their quiet retreat during very wet or cold -weather. It would be well if the young angler could go out for some -little time with an old experienced hand, to observe and imitate his -movements as closely as possible. - - * * * * * - -TO PREPARE SHEEP SKINS FOR MATS.--Make a strong lather with hot water -and let it stand till cold; wash the fresh skin in it, carefully -squeezing out all the dirt from the wool; wash it in cold water till -all the soap is taken out. Dissolve a pound each of salt and alum in -two gallons of hot water, and put the skin into a tub sufficient to -cover it; let it soak for twelve hours, and hang it over a pole to -drain. When well drained stretch it carefully on a board to dry, and -stretch several times while drying. Before it is quite dry, sprinkle on -the flesh side one ounce each of finely pulverized alum and saltpetre, -rubbing it in well. - -Try if the wool be firm on the skin; if not, let it remain a day or -two, then rub again with alum; fold the flesh sides together and hang -in the shade for two or three days, turning them over each day till -quite dry. Scrape the flesh side with a blunt knife, and rub it with -pumice or rotten stone. - - * * * * * - -TO TAN SHEEP SKINS.--Sheep skins, which are used for a variety of -purposes, such as gloves, book-covers, etc., and which when dyed, are -converted into mock Morocco leather, are dressed as follows: They are -first to be soaked in water and handled, to separate all impurities, -which may be scraped off by a blunt knife on a beam. They are then to -be hung up in a close, warm room to putrefy. This putrefaction loosens -the wool, and causes the exudation of an oily and slimy matter, all -which are to be removed by the knife. The skins are now to be steeped -in milk of lime, to harden and thicken; here they remain for 1 month -or 6 weeks, according to circumstances, and when taken out, they are -to be smoothed on the fleshy side with a sharp knife. They are now to -be steeped in a bath of bran and water, where they undergo a partial -fermentation, and become thinner in their substance. - -The skins, which are now called pelts, are to be immersed in a solution -of alum and common salt in water; in the proportion of 120 skins to -three pounds of alum and five pounds of salt. They are to be much -agitated in this compound saline bath, in order to become firm and -tough. From this bath they are to be removed to another, composed -of bran and water, where they remain until quite pliant by a slight -fermentation. To give their upper surface a gloss, they are to be -trodden in a wooden tub, with a solution of yolks of eggs in water, -previously well beaten up. When this solution has become transparent, -it is a proof that the skins have absorbed the glazing matter. The pelt -may now be said to be converted into leather, which is to be drained -from moisture, hung upon hooks in a warm apartment to dry, and smoothed -over with warm hand-irons. - - * * * * * - -TO TRAP YOUNG MINK.--MINK BREEDING.--Adult minks are almost untamable, -but young ones readily submit to handling, and are easily domesticated. -The time to secure young minks is in May and June, when they begin -to run with their dams. The streams must be quietly watched for mink -trails, and these tracked to the nest. - -When they leave the hole the old one may be shot, and the young ones -secured, or they may be dug out. Those who own a breeding stock of -minks ask high prices for them; but trappers represent to us that it -is an easy matter to get the wild young ones. _Habits._--A successful -breeder says that he does not attempt to tame the wild mink, but only -aims to supply for it in a small space all the necessities of its -natural instincts. He says the mating season commences about the first -of March, and lasts two weeks, never varying much from that date. - -The female carries her young about six weeks. In the minkery, where -diet, water, temperature, etc., are similar with each animal, there is -so little difference in the time of mating and time of bearing young in -different animals, that five out of six litters dropped last spring, -were born within twelve hours of each other. The young are blind from -four to five weeks, but are very active, and playful as kittens. The -mother weans them at from eight to ten weeks old. At four weeks the -mother begins to feed them meat; this they learn to suck before they -have teeth to eat it. - -The nests in which the young are born are lined by the mother with some -soft material, and are made in the hollow of some old stump, or between -the projecting roots of some old tree, and always where it is perfectly -dry. The nest is located near pure running water, which the mother -visits twice every twenty-four hours. She feeds her young on frogs, -fish, birds, mice, crabs, etc., etc. The mink is from birth a pattern -of neatness and cleanliness, and as soon as a nest begins to get foul -and offensive, she takes one of the young in her mouth, and depositing -it in a clean, suitable place, builds a nest about it, and then brings -the balance of the litter. She feeds and cares for them until they are -three and a half or four months old. When the young are weaned, about -the 10th of July, she builds her nest near the water, in which the -young soon learn to play. There are usually four in a litter, though -the number ranges from two to six. Towards fall the mother separates -them into pairs. One pair--or if the number be odd, the odd one--is -left in the nest; the other pair or pairs, she places them often half a -mile from each other, and then seeks new quarters for herself. - -The young soon separate, and each one catches his own frogs, etc. They -do not pair, but the male is a sort of rover and free-lover. Minks are -unsociable, petulant, vicious in play, savage in war. Late in the fall -they establish regular runaways from one stream to another, and usually -under brush-fallen trees, weeds swale, and under banks--anywhere, in -fact, where they can avoid the sunshine, and escape the chances of -observation. The mink is a sure prophet, and just before hard winter -begins, he lays by a store of food for the winter in safe places near -his winter nests, of which he has several. As the snows fall he burrows -under the snow, where he remains until about February, when his supply -of food is exhausted, and he is forced to seek further for food. - - * * * * * - -MANAGEMENT OF.--Mink being by nature solitary, wandering creatures, -being seldom seen in company except during the breeding season, are, -therefore, impossible to be reared successfully, if large numbers are -kept constantly together, therefore their inclosure should be a large -one. - -The male and female should be permitted to be together frequently from -the middle of February until the middle of March. At all other times -keep them entirely separate. The young mink make their appearance about -the first of May. When wild in the woods they will seldom vary five -days from this time, but when kept in confinement there is greater -variation. About this season they should have plenty of fine hay, which -they will carry into their boxes to make nests. A box three or four -feet long and eighteen inches wide is the shape they prefer. It should -be placed as far as possible from the water to prevent the mink from -carrying water and mud into it. - -The young mink when first born are small and delicate, destitute of any -kind of fur, and much resembling young rats. If the old mink is tame -the young ones may be taken out of the nest and handled when they are -three weeks old. They will soon learn to drink milk, and may feed every -day. At five weeks old they may be taken from the mother and put into a -pen by themselves, when they will soon become very playful and pretty, -and make much better mothers than they would if allowed to run with the -old ones. - -The shelter should be in the shape of a long box, 5 or 6 feet wide, -and 3 or 4 feet high, set upon legs, and with a good floor and roof. -Divide it into separate compartments, 6 feet long (or longer would be -better,) the front of each apartment to be furnished with a swinging -door of strong wire screen, with the hinges at the top, and a button or -some kind of fastener at the bottom. A trough 6 inches square, made by -nailing three boards together, should run the whole length of the pen -on the back side; one end of the trough should be made several inches -lower than the other, so that the water can be drawn off. With this -arrangement, the water can be turned in at one end of the trough, and -drawn off and changed as often as desired. The lower end of the trough -should be a little deeper than the other, to prevent the water from -running over. Each apartment is furnished with a box 3 feet long and -eighteen inches wide. On one side of the box and near one end is made a -round hole, 2-1/2 inches in diameter, and provided with a sliding cover -so that by means of a stick it can be opened or closed from the outside. - -This is so the mink can be shut up when the pen is being cleaned -out. On the top of the box and at the other end should be a door -large enough to put in hay for the nest and take out the young. It is -necessary that they have abundance of pure, soft water, fresh air, -desirable shade and plenty of exercise. These conditions secure to the -mink a good quality of dark fur and good health. Brush, weeds, etc., -are allowed to grow in the yard, but not near enough the wall to admit -of their climbing up and out. - -In addition to the above directions for breeding mink, we give the -following experience of a gentleman in Vermont: “I purchased one -female and her litter of five, two males and four females in all, and -constructed a building of rough boards, 10 by 4 feet, for a minkery. -It had a floor tight enough to prevent the escape of the animals, was -properly ventilated, and divided into six apartments, one of which is -an ante-room in which to step from the outside and close the door. -Water is supplied by a lead pipe running in at one side through all the -rooms, and out at the other into a trough where small fish are kept, -and occasionally given to the minks. - -“They were kept together until December the 18th, when the males were -put in an apartment by themselves. On the 10th of March each male was -put in with a female, each pair separate, and after a couple of days, -one of the males was put in with another female, and finally with the -third. They were separated about the 1st of April, each female being -kept alone and supplied with a suitable box, with warm material for a -nest. When it was supposed they were about to bring forth their young, -they were disturbed as little as possible; anything to excite them at -this time, should be avoided, for when irritated, they will sometimes -eat their young. The first female put with the perfect male, brought -forth seven, one of which disappeared after they began to crawl around -out of their nest. The other two females had each a pair, all of which -(but the one mentioned) are now alive, fine, fat, sleek fellows, and -fully grown. They are very easily kept, being fed once a day upon warm -milk with wheat bread crumbs--a quart sufficing for the whole lot, and -once upon fresh meat, care being taken not to over-feed. - -“Any kind of meat and offal that is not too fat will answer. They are -very fond of beef liver, chickens’ heads and entrails, woodchucks -(being careful not to give them the gall or the liver, which is -poisonous), rats, mice, etc. They are more easily cared for than one -hog and much more cheaply kept. Nothing was paid out for meat for them -until after 1st July, when a contract was made with a butcher to leave -a bullock’s head once a week. I am confident that the increase of the -minkery would have been fully one-third more if both the males had -been perfect. I intend to keep them in pairs hereafter. They are not -easily handled, but struggle when caught against their will and exude -the thick fetid substance from glands near the vent. They will bite -severely, but can be handled safely with thick buckskin gloves.” - -[Illustration: THE END.] - - * * * * * - -USEFUL AND INSTRUCTIVE BOOKS. - -HOW TO KEEP AND MANAGE PETS--Giving complete information as to the -manner and method of raising, keeping, taming, breeding, and managing -all kinds of pets; also giving full instructions for making cages, -etc. Fully explained by 28 illustrations, making it the most complete -book of the kind ever published. Price 10 cents. Address Frank Tousey, -publisher, New York. - -HOW TO DO ELECTRICAL TRICKS.--Containing a large collection of -instructive and highly amusing electrical tricks, together with -illustrations. By A. Anderson. Price 10 cents. For sale by all -newsdealers, or sent, post-paid, upon receipt of the price. Address -Frank Tousey, Publisher, New York. - -HOW TO WRITE LETTERS--A wonderful little book, telling you how to write -to your sweetheart, your father, mother, sister, brother, employer; -and, in fact, everybody and anybody you wish to write to. Every young -man and every young lady in the land should have this book. It is for -sale by all newsdealers. Price 10 cents, or sent from this office on -receipt of price. Address Frank Tousey, publisher, New York. - -HOW TO DO PUZZLES--Containing over 300 interesting puzzles and -conundrums with key to same. A complete book. Fully illustrated. By -A. Anderson. Price 10 cents. For sale by all newsdealers, or sent, -post-paid, upon receipt of the price. Address Frank Tousey, Publisher, -New York. - -HOW TO DO 40 TRICKS WITH CARDS--Containing deceptive Card Tricks -as performed by leading conjurers and magicians. Arranged for home -amusement. Fully illustrated. Price 10 cents. Address Frank Tousey, -publisher, New York. - -HOW TO MAKE A MAGIC LANTERN--Containing description of the lantern, -together with its history and invention. Also full directions for its -use and for painting slides. Handsomely illustrated, by John Allen. -Price 10 cents. For sale by all newsdealers in the United States and -Canada, or will be sent to your address, post-paid, on receipt of -price. Address Frank Tousey, publisher, New York. - -HOW TO BECOME AN ACTOR--Containing complete instructions how to make up -for various characters on the stage; together with the duties of the -Stage Manager, Prompter, Scenic Artist and Property Man. By a prominent -Stage Manager. Price 10 cents. Address Frank Tousey, publisher, N. Y. - - * * * * * - -BUY A COPY OF “WILD WEST WEEKLY” CONTAINING - -Stories of Western Life - -By AN OLD SCOUT - -_32 Pages of Splendid Reading Matter. Beautifully Illuminated Covers. -A New One Issued Every Friday. Price 5 Cents._ - -This library gives the daring adventures of a plucky boy among the -cowboys, Indians, miners and soldiers of the Far West. They are the -most dashing romances ever written, and will hold your interest from -beginning to end. - -SEE HOW YOU LIKE THEM - -Glance Over This List: - -No. - -90 Young Wild West’s Indian Scout; or, Arietta and the Pawnee Maiden. - -91 Young Wild West and the “Salted” Mine; or, The Double Game for a -Million. - -92 Young Wild West’s Overland Route; or, The Masked Band of Death Pass. - -93 Young Wild West’s Iron Grip; or, Settling the Cowboy Feud. - -94 Young Wild West’s Last Chance; or, Arietta’s Narrow Escape. - -95 Young Wild West and the Gold Grabbers; or, The Fight for the Widow’s -Claim. - -96 Young Wild West and the Branded Band; or, The Scourge of Skeleton -Skit. - -97 Young Wild West’s Double Danger; or, The Sign of the Secret Seven. - -98 Young Wild West and the Renegade Rustlers; or, Saved by the Sorrel -Stallion. - -99 Young Wild West’s Fandango; or, Arietta Among the Mexicans. - -100 Young Wild West and the Double Deuce; or, The Domino Gang of Denver. - -101 Young Wild West on the Prairie; or, The Trail That Had No End. - -102 Young Wild West and “Missouri Mike”; or, The Worst Man in Wyoming. - -103 Young Wild West at the Golden Gate; or, a Business Trip to ’Frisco. - -104 Young Wild West and the Redskin Raiders; or, Arietta’s Leap for -Life. - -_For sale by all newsdealers or sent to any address on receipt of -price, 5 cents per copy, in money or postage stamps._ - -FRANK TOUSEY, Publisher, 24 Union Square, N. Y. - - * * * * * - -ARE YOU READING - -“Work AND Win” - -IT CONTAINS - -The Great Fred Fearnot Stories - - ISSUED EVERY FRIDAY - 32 PAGES PRICE 5 CENTS - HANDSOME COLORED COVERS - -Each number details the interesting, humorous and startling adventures -of two bright, independent boys. They see everything in life, enjoy -plenty fun and do all the good they can. Don’t miss these stories. - -THEY ARE FINE - -Read the Following Titles: - -No. - -294 Fred Fearnot’s Wall Street Game; or, Fighting the Bucket Shops. - -295 Fred Fearnot’s Society Circus; or, The Fun That Built a -School-House. - -296 Fred Fearnot’s Wonderful Courage; or, The Mistake of the Train -Robber. - -297 Fred Fearnot’s Friend from India, and the Wonderful Things He Did. - -298 Fred Fearnot and the Poor Widow; or, Making a Mean Man Do Right. - -299 Fred Fearnot’s Cowboys; or, Tackling the Ranch Raiders. - -300 Fred Fearnot and the Money Lenders; or, Breaking Up a Swindling -Gang. - -301 Fred Fearnot’s Gun Club; or, Shooting for a Diamond Cup. - -302 Fred Fearnot and the Braggart; or, Having Fun with an Egotist. - -303 Fred Fearnot’s Fire Brigade; or, Beating the Insurance Frauds. - -304 Fred Fearnot’s Temperance Lectures; or, Fighting Rum and Ruin. - -305 Fred Fearnot and the “Cattle Queen”; or, A Desperate Woman’s Game. - -306 Fred Fearnot and the Boomers; or, The Game that Failed. - -_For sale by all newsdealers or sent to any address on receipt of -price, 5 cents per copy, in money or postage stamps._ - -FRANK TOUSEY, Publisher, 24 Union Square, N. Y. - - * * * * * - -USEFUL AND INSTRUCTIVE BOOKS. - -HOW TO DO THE BLACK ART--Containing a complete description of the -mysteries of Magic and Sleight-of-Hand, together with many wonderful -experiments. By A. Anderson. Illustrated. Price 10 cents. Address Frank -Tousey, publisher, N. Y. - -HOW TO BE A DETECTIVE--By Old King Brady, the world known detective. In -which he lays down some valuable and sensible rules for beginners, and -also relates some adventures and experiences of well-known detectives. -Price 10 cents. For sale by all newsdealers in the United States and -Canada, or sent to your address, post-paid, on receipt of price. -Address Frank Tousey, publisher, New York. - -HOW TO BECOME A CONJURER--Containing tricks with Dominoes, Dice, Cups -and Balls, Hats, etc. Embracing 36 illustrations. By A. Anderson. Price -10 cents. Address Frank Tousey, publisher, New York. - -HOW TO DO MECHANICAL TRICKS--Containing complete instructions for -performing over sixty Mechanical Tricks. By A. Anderson. Fully -illustrated. Price 10 cents. For sale by all newsdealers, or we will -send it by mail, postage free, upon receipt of price. Address Frank -Tousey, Publisher, N. Y. - -HOW TO DO SIXTY TRICKS WITH CARDS--Embracing all of the latest and most -deceptive card tricks with illustrations. By A. Anderson. Price 10 -cents. For sale by all newsdealers, or we will send it to you by mail, -postage free, upon receipt of price. Address Frank Tousey, Publisher, -N. Y. - -HOW TO MAKE ELECTRICAL MACHINES--Containing full directions for making -electrical machines, induction coils, dynamos, and many novel toys to -be worked by electricity. By R. A. R. Bennett. Fully illustrated. Price -10 cents. For sale by all newsdealers in the United States and Canada, -or will be sent to your address, post-paid, on receipt of price. -Address Frank Tousey, publisher, New York. - -HOW TO BECOME A BOWLER--A complete manual of bowling. Containing full -instructions for playing all the standard American and German games, -together with rules and systems of sporting in use by the principal -bowling clubs in the United States. By Bartholomew Batterson. Price 10 -cents. For sale by all newsdealers in the United States and Canada, or -sent to your address, postage free, on receipt of the price. Address -Frank Tousey, publisher, New York. - - * * * * * - -OUR TEN CENT HAND BOOKS. - -USEFUL, INSTRUCTIVE AND AMUSING. - -Containing valuable information on almost every subject, such as -=Writing=, =Speaking=, =Dancing=, =Cooking=; also =Rules of Etiquette=, -=The Art of Ventriloquism=, =Gymnastic Exercises=, and =The Science of -Self-Defense=, =etc.=, =etc.= - -1 Napoleon’s Oraculum and Dream Book. - -2 How to Do Tricks. - -3 How to Flirt. - -4 How to Dance. - -5 How to Make Love. - -6 How to Become an Athlete. - -7 How to Keep Birds. - -8 How to Become a Scientist. - -9 How to Become a Ventriloquist. - -10 How to Box. - -11 How to Write Love Letters. - -12 How to Write Letters to Ladies. - -13 How to Do It; or, Book of Etiquette. - -14 How to Make Candy. - -15 How to Become Rich. - -16 How to Keep a Window Garden. - -17 How to Dress. - -18 How to Become Beautiful. - -19 Frank Tousey’s U. S. Distance Tables, Pocket Companion and Guide. - -20 How to Entertain an Evening Party. - -21 How to Hunt and Fish. - -22 How to Do Second Sight. - -23 How to Explain Dreams. - -24 How to Write Letters to Gentlemen. - -25 How to Become a Gymnast. - -26 How to Row, Sail and Build a Boat. - -27 How to Recite and Book of Recitations. - -28 How to Tell Fortunes. - -29 How to Become an Inventor. - -30 How to Cook. - -31 How to Become a Speaker. - -32 How to Ride a Bicycle. - -33 How to Behave. - -34 How to Fence. - -35 How to Play Games. - -36 How to Solve Conundrums. - -37 How to Keep House. - -38 How to Become Your Own Doctor. - -39 How to Raise Dogs, Poultry, Pigeons and Rabbits. - -40 How to Make and Set Traps. - -41 The Boys of New York End Men’s Joke Book. - -42 The Boys of New York Stump Speaker. - -43 How to Become a Magician. - -44 How to Write in an Album. - -45 The Boys of New York Minstrel Guide and Joke Book. - -46 How to Make and Use Electricity. - -47 How to Break, Ride and Drive a Horse. - -48 How to Build and Sail Canoes. - -49 How to Debate. - -50 How to Stuff Birds and Animals. - -51 How to Do Tricks with Cards. - -52 How to Play Cards. - -53 How to Write Letters. - -54 How to Keep and Manage Pets. - -55 How to Collect Stamps and Coins. - -56 How to Become an Engineer. - -57 How to Make Musical Instruments. - -58 How to Become a Detective. - -59 How to Make a Magic Lantern. - -60 How to Become a Photographer. - -61 How to Become a Bowler. - -62 How to Become a West Point Military Cadet. - -63 How to Become a Naval Cadet. - -64 How to Make Electrical Machines. - -65 Muldoon’s Jokes. - -66 How to Do Puzzles. - -67 How to Do Electrical Tricks. - -68 How to Do Chemical Tricks. - -69 How to Do Sleight of Hand. - -70 How to Make Magic Toys. - -71 How to Do Mechanical Tricks. - -72 How to Do Sixty Tricks with Cards. - -73 How to Do Tricks with Numbers. - -74 How to Write Letters Correctly. - -75 How to Become a Conjuror. - -76 How to Tell Fortunes by the Hand. - -77 How to Do Forty Tricks with Cards. - -78 How to Do the Black Art. - -79 How to Become an Actor - -80 Gus Williams’ Joke Book. - -All the above books are for sale by newsdealers throughout the United -States and Canada, or they will be sent, post-paid, to your address, on -receipt of 10c. each. - -_Send Your Name and Address for Our Latest Illustrated Catalogue._ - -FRANK TOUSEY, Publisher, - -24 UNION SQUARE, NEW YORK. - - - - - * * * * * - - - - -Transcriber’s note: - -Illustrations have been moved to paragraph breaks near where they are -mentioned. - -Punctuation has been made consistent. - -Variations in spelling and hyphenation were retained as they appear in -the original publication, except that obvious typographical errors -have been corrected. - -Changes have been made as follows: - -The notation 1 2 for fractions has been changed to 1/2. - -p. 11: muste la changed to mustela (invest _mustela vulgaris_) - -p. 30: 5 changed to 6 [(Fig. 6). The] - -p. 39: Fig. 6 referenced here does not exist. - - - -***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HOW TO MAKE AND SET TRAPS*** - - -******* This file should be named 50600-0.txt or 50600-0.zip ******* - - -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: -http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/5/0/6/0/50600 - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. Special rules, set forth in the General Terms of Use part -of this license, apply to copying and distributing Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic works to protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm -concept and trademark. 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Harrington -Keene</h1> -<p>This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States -and most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no -restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it -under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this -eBook or online at <a -href="http://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a>. If you are not -located in the United States, you'll have to check the laws of the -country where you are located before using this ebook.</p> -<p>Title: How to Make and Set Traps</p> -<p> Including Hints on How to Trap Moles, Weasels, Otter, Rats, Squirrels and Birds; Also How to Cure Skins</p> -<p>Author: J. Harrington Keene</p> -<p>Release Date: December 3, 2015 [eBook #50600]</p> -<p>Language: English</p> -<p>Character set encoding: UTF-8</p> -<p>***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HOW TO MAKE AND SET TRAPS***</p> -<p> </p> -<h4>E-text prepared by Craig Kirkwood, Demian Katz,<br /> - and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team<br /> - (<a href="http://www.pgdp.net">http://www.pgdp.net</a>)<br /> - from page images generously made available by<br /> - Villanova University Digital Library<br /> - (<a href="http://digital.library.villanova.edu">http://digital.library.villanova.edu</a>)</h4> -<p> </p> -<table border="0" style="background-color: #ccccff;margin: 0 auto;" cellpadding="10"> - <tr> - <td valign="top"> - Note: - </td> - <td> - Images of the original pages are available through - Villanova University Digital Library. See - <a href="http://digital.library.villanova.edu/Item/vudl:296237"> - http://digital.library.villanova.edu/Item/vudl:296237</a> - </td> - </tr> -</table> -<p> </p> -<div class="transnote"> -<h2 style="margin-top: 0em">Transcriber’s Note:</h2> - -<p>The Table of Contents was created by the transcriber and placed in -the public domain.</p> - -<p>Figure numbers are not consecutive, -with some numbers missing and other numbers duplicated.</p> - -<p><a href="#TN_end">Additional Transcriber’s Notes</a> are at the -end.</p> -</div> -<p> </p> -<hr class="full" /> -<p> </p> -<p> </p> -<p> </p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 536px;"> -<img id="coverpage" src="images/cover.jpg" width="536" height="850" alt="" /> -</div> - - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<div class="chapter"></div><!--Page break for ePub--> - -<div class="boxit"> -<p class="center xlargefont boldfont">TABLE OF CONTENTS</p> -<p class="hangindent"><a href="#I_THE_MOLE">I. THE MOLE.</a></p> -<p class="hangindent"><a href="#II_THE_WEASEL_STOAT_AND_POLECAT">II. THE WEASEL, STOAT AND POLECAT.</a></p> -<p class="hangindent"><a href="#III_RATS">III. RATS.</a></p> -<p class="hangindent"><a href="#IV_THE_OTTER">IV. THE OTTER.</a></p> -<p class="hangindent"><a href="#V_THE_SQUIRREL">V. THE SQUIRREL.</a></p> -<p class="hangindent"><a href="#VI_BIRD_TRAPPING">VI. BIRD TRAPPING.</a></p> -<p class="hangindent"><a href="#VII_BIRD-CATCHING_BY_NET">VII. BIRD-CATCHING BY NET.</a></p> -<p class="hangindent"><a href="#VIII_BIRD-CATCHING_WITH_TRAPS">VIII. BIRD-CATCHING WITH TRAPS.</a></p> -<p class="hangindent"><a href="#IX_BIRD-CATCHING_WITH_TRAPS_ETC">IX. BIRD-CATCHING WITH TRAPS, ETC.</a></p> -<p class="hangindent"><a href="#The_Art_of_Stretching_and_Curing_Skins">The Art of Stretching and Curing Skins.</a></p> -<p class="hangindent"><a href="#Dressing_and_Tanning_Skins_and_Furs">Dressing and Tanning Skins and Furs.</a></p> -<p class="hangindent"><a href="#Coloring_or_Dyeing_Skins_and_Furs">Coloring or Dyeing Skins and Furs.</a></p> -<p class="hangindent"><a href="#Some_Additional_Valuable_Miscellaneous_Information">Some Additional Valuable Miscellaneous Information Useful Alike to the Hunter, Trapper and Angler.</a></p> -</div> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<div class="chapter"></div><!--Page break for ePub--> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_1">[1]</a></span></p> - - - - -<h1>How to Make and Set Traps</h1> - - -<p class="center boldfont" style="margin-top:2em"> Including Hints on How to Trap</p> - -<p class="center xlargefont boldfont"> Moles, Weasels, Otter, Rats, Squirrels and Birds.</p> - -<p class="center xlargefont boldfont" style="margin-top:2em"> ALSO HOW TO CURE SKINS.</p> - -<p class="center xxlargefont" style="margin-top:1em"> COPIOUSLY ILLUSTRATED.</p> - -<p class="center largefont boldfont" style="margin-top:2em"> By J. HARRINGTON KEENE.</p> - -<p class="center" style="margin-top:2em"> <span class="smcap">New York</span>:<br /> - FRANK TOUSEY, Publisher,<br /> - <span class="smcap">24 Union Square</span>. -</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<div class="chapter"></div><!--Page break for ePub--> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_2">[2]</a></span></p> - -<p class="center">Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1902, by</p> - -<p class="center">FRANK TOUSEY,</p> - -<p class="center">in the Office of the Librarian of Congress at Washington, D. C.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<div class="chapter"></div><!--Page break for ePub--> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_3">[3]</a></span></p> - -<p class="center xxlargefont boldfont">HOW TO MAKE AND SET TRAPS.</p> - - -<h2 class="no-break"><a id="I_THE_MOLE">I.<br /><span class="chapterfont">THE MOLE.</span></a></h2> - - -<p>Dirt has been defined as “matter in the wrong place.” -It is very useful, and, indeed, indispensable, as earth in -a garden, but decidedly unbecoming and dirty when on your -face or clothes. In a similar way, most of the creatures -termed “vermin” are in themselves very graceful and beautiful -specimens of the Creator’s handiwork, but when they -encroach on man’s paths of progress and improvement -they become “vermin,” and though all life should be looked -upon as a fearful and wonderful thing, not to be lightly -taken from its possessor, they are then justifiably slain.</p> - -<p>The little gentleman in black velvet—the mole—is a lovely-coated -little fellow, possessing many virtues, such as -courage, industry, and parental affection, but when he once -gets into your father’s garden, which has probably cost -money and exceeding care to render it neat and productive, -our little friend is transformed into one of the most troublesome -of “vermin,” and must be relentlessly sacrificed by -the trapper. If this is not done, Master Mole will himself -sacrifice the crops in his efforts to get at the worms, which, -as the late Charles Darwin so conclusively showed, are one -of the great regenerating forces of the land’s fertility.</p> - -<p>Look at rats again. See how lithe and agile they are, -how fond of their young, and provident in storing food for -future consumption; yet they are without a redeeming excellency -if, like dirt, they are in the wrong place—as they -are, by the way, pretty certain to be.</p> - -<p>Of the squirrel Mr. Ruskin, in his marvelously eloquent -way, has said: “Of all quadrupeds ... there is none -so beautiful or so happy as the squirrel. Innocent in all his -ways, harmless in his food, playful as a kitten, but without<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_4">[4]</a></span> -cruelty, and surpassing the dexterity of the monkey, with -the grace of a bird, the little dark-eyed miracle of the forest -goes from branch to branch more like a sunbeam than a living -thing. The chamois is slow to it, and the panther clumsy. -It haunts you, listens for you, hides from you, looks for you, -loves you, as if it were a plaything invented by the angel that -walks by your children.”</p> - -<p>Alas! there is a reverse side to this beautiful word-picture -of the great art critic. The gamekeeper will tell you that -mischievous Master “Squiggy” is very fond of birds’ eggs—many -a tiny wren, and many a sweet-voiced blackbird has -discovered this also—and that he above all will often suck -the dove-hued eggs of the pheasant. Much, therefore, as I -admire this little creature when he is in his native firtree, -I shall tell you how to catch him alive, so that he may -be kept away from doing harm.</p> - -<p>Again, the brilliant kingfisher, flashing by you like a beam -of azure light, is in his right place near the stickleback -pond, but on my trout river he is “vermin.” The same exposition -of the properties of vermin might be followed out in -reference to all the creatures I intend to hereafter teach you -how to capture or destroy.</p> - -<p>So much by way of introduction, and now suppose, as I -have above referred to “the little gentleman in the velvet -suit,” we begin with him. Do not be alarmed at the few -items of natural history I am going to give you in reference -to each “varmint.” It is better for you to know about the -funny little ways of the lower creation now than wait till -you are men, and perhaps unable to devote much time to -the acquisition of such knowledge. Besides, there is nothing -mean or paltry in such studies. Why, the great German -Heber and our hardly less great Sir John Lubbock have devoted -their lives to ants and such small fry till marvels of -intelligence in these insects have been unfolded to their -wondering vision. Even the wise and mighty King Solomon -did not forget them. Do not despise small things because -they are small, therefore, for are we not ourselves as motes -and specks of dust in the sunbeam in the immensity of God?</p> - -<p>I most, however, return to the mole, or you may accuse -me of preaching a sermon when you were expecting to hear -how to catch vermin.</p> - -<p>Well, the scientific name of the mole is Talpa Europæa, -and its distribution is all over Europe. France, Italy, Spain, -Portugal, Germany, Holland, Sweden, and Denmark alike -produce it as well as our own land. The main thing—or one -of them—that arrests the attention on first seeing the mole is -the very hand-like fore paws. These are attached to the -body by a short forearm, and suggest immense strength—which,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_5">[5]</a></span> -as a matter of fact, they possess. They are used for -scooping the earth from before and throwing it on one side; -and for this purpose the claws are long and trenchant. The -hind feet, which are comparatively small, serve the purpose -of throwing out the earth behind with incredible quickness. -The head also, being sharp-pointed, offers no opposition to -this boring through the soft soil, and the eyes, being so tiny, -are never injured by the soil through which the pointed snout -passes.</p> - -<p>For a long time people failed to discover that the mole -possessed eyes, so rudimentary and hidden are they. They -are covered by the soft fur, and it is to be presumed that -as they are of little or no use in the total darkness of subterranean -passages, they serve only to apprise their owner -of the approach of light whenever it may find itself near the -surface of the ground. It sometimes has happened to me to -find a mole strayed from its habitation, I suppose, and on -the surface of the soil. From the experiment of putting an -obstacle in front of it, and its avoidance thereof, I have come -to the conclusion that it can see slightly, though it is evident -when you dissect the head that the organs of hearing -are vastly -more developed -than those -of sight. -The sense -of smell is -perhaps -stronger -than that -of hearing—as -one -would infer from the long, pointed, greyhound-like snout; -and this should be borne in mind when setting the trap. If -indeed, in the case of any animal, you are told that the sense -of smell is well developed, handle the ginsnare or trap as little -as possible with the naked hand. There is a distinctive -odor in the human hand which animals, whether vermin or -not, seem instantly to recognize.</p> - -<div id="Fig_2" class="figright" style="width: 450px;"> -<img src="images/i005.jpg" width="450" height="189" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p class="center">Fig. 2.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>Moles construct a fortress, or habitation, under a hillock -or some such convenient protection as a sort of central position, -from which they proceed outwards through various -“runs” or roads in search of food (see <a href="#Fig_2">Fig. 2</a>). This fortress -has a dome of earth, which is beaten hard by the creature, -and so rendered strong and impervious to rain, snow, -dews, or frost. <span class="smcap">A</span> in <a href="#Fig_2">Fig. 2</a> represents the hollow center, -which is also dry and hard, whilst <span class="smcap">B B B</span> signify the ramifying<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_6">[6]</a></span> -tunnels leading into the galleries of the central fortress, -and outwards to the tracts for feeding and exploration, as -well as to the nests of the various pairs of sexes forming -the community. Along these tracts the individuals travel -and obtain their livelihood, never stopping to gossip; for if, -indeed, one mole meets another by chance, one must turn -out of the way into the nearest alley, or there is a “row,” -which generally means death to the weaker—for, let me -tell you, Mr. Talpa is a very pugnacious little man when -thwarted.</p> - -<p>Of course, you know that the food of the mole is chiefly -comprised of worms—and speaking of that reminds me of a -method I once saw of catching moles, which was cruel but -very singular. I was fishing on the Colne, near Wraysbury, -and I noticed an old man in the field behind me industriously -going over the ground, and here and there drawing out a -live mole by means of what seemed a string.</p> - -<p>I laid down my rod and went over to him, and after a -little persuasion I got to understand the whole bag of -tricks. His method was to dig down to a fresh tunnel and -“lay” a lobworm, threaded on a rather small fish-hook tied -on fine brass wire, covering in the hole with leaves and dirt -and securing the wire by a string to a stout peg. The mole, -being almost sure to return, would thus take the bait, and -in most cases get hooked in the mouth. This seems to me, -however, a needlessly cruel way of mole-catching when -there are others quite as effectual and practically painless, -and I shall therefore not go any farther into the particulars -necessary for its practice.</p> - -<p>Moles are extremely voracious and, this being so, they -crave and enjoy large quantities of water. I have frequently -watched moles descending by a beaten run to the -water—and, indeed, just opposite where I am writing there -is a tiny roadway from a mole hillock to the neighboring -ditch. Should a plentiful supply such as this not be handy, -the little animal sinks a well for himself, beating the interior -hard and forming quite a little shaft, which receives -the rain and stores it. I came across one some time ago -which was quite a foot in depth and almost full.</p> - -<p>I have said that there is a fortress usually built by a colony -of moles in the approximate form of <a href="#Fig_2">Fig. 2</a>, and so there -is. The aim of the mole-catcher should be if possible to find -out where this central position is and cut off retreat. I have -seen the mole-catcher in Windsor Park dig the moles out -on finding out this metropolis of moles—as it might be fitly -called.</p> - -<p>It has been proved that immediately on anything very -alarming occurring, they forsake their explorations and<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_7">[7]</a></span> -flee into the citadel. This is how it was done and who did -it.</p> - -<p>Monsieur le Court, a French gentleman, very sensibly believing -that there was little else but horror and danger in -the tumult and bloodshed of the great French Revolution, -fled from the court where he had waited on and been the -companion of the highest, and secluded himself in the depth -of the country to become the historian and friend of the humble -La Taupe, as the French term the mole. M. Geoffrey St. -Hillaire visited him, and together they watched their opportunity -till one of the moles had penetrated far from the fortress -in search of food.</p> - -<p>Le Court then placed straws with little flags on the end out -of the ground at intervals in the passage behind the mole in -such a way that if the creature fled back again it would infallibly -knock them down. With a trumpet buried, leaving -the mouth-piece out of the ground, -he blew a blast loud enough to shake -the good-nature out of the best toy of -your acquaintance, and instantly one -after the other, almost as fast as a -horse can trot, down went the little -flags till the central home was reached. -The mole usually builds at the intersection -of several of the roads and not -in the habitation. Its nest consists of -fibers and dried grass, straw, etc., -and the young seldom number more -than five. Moles will sometimes take -the water, but such instances are extremely -rare; there is no reason, however, -why it should not be a good -swimmer, its front paws being so -spatulous and strong.</p> - -<div id="Fig_3" class="figleft" style="width: 200px;"> -<img src="images/i007.jpg" width="200" height="529" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p class="center">Fig. 3. <span style="padding-left:4em">Fig. 4.</span></p></div> -</div> - -<p>Mole trapping is very seldom practiced, -except by professionals, who besides -the blood money generally -awarded on the production of each -mole’s tail, make a very nice little -amount by selling the skins. Still -there is nothing difficult about mole -catching, and the most stupid boy -could render himself successful if he observes a little and -follows the directions I am about to give. First, then as to -tools, which are indispensable when one is out for a day’s -trap-setting. <a href="#Fig_3">Fig. 3</a> shows an implement which at A consists -of an iron heavy spike which is used for making holes -for the insertion of the spring stick of the trap to be described<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_8">[8]</a></span> -presently. B is the wooden haft—ash is as good as any; C -is a sort of spatula or little spade for digging into a mole -run. <a href="#Fig_3">Fig. 4</a> shows a light hatchet or a rather long handle -for cutting hazel or ash-spring sticks, pointing them, etc.</p> - -<div id="Fig_5" class="figleft" style="width: 120px;"> -<img src="images/i008a.jpg" width="120" height="406" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p class="center">Fig. 5.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>Now as to the traps themselves. <a href="#Fig_5">Fig. 5</a> shows -the iron trap, usually sold with galvanized uprights -and claws. A indicates the spring which, -on the mole by placing its head in the circular -orifice of B releasing the latter, closes the claws -to, killing the mole instantly. B, of course, is a -movable tongue of the shape shown at C, and -ought to be tied to the body of the trap in case -the mole should by any means escape, pulling -the tongue (C) after it. This is, of course, a -very neat kind of trap, but a dozen of them -would come expensive, and besides, I do not -prefer them in actual practice on a large scale, -as they are by no means so likely to be viewed -without suspicion by the mole as are the homespun -traps I am going to describe.</p> - -<p>Get a strip of wood (deal is as good as anything) -about six inches long by four broad and -half an inch thick, like <span class="smcap">D</span>, <a href="#Fig_6">Fig. 6</a>. Bore nine -holes in it, four for the reception of the ends of two half circular -hoofs of wood shown at A, and four smaller ones for -the two wires at -<span class="smcap">A</span>2 <span class="smcap">A</span>2 to pass -through. One -largish hole is -made in the center, -and through -this passes a -cord with a knot -at the end (<span class="smcap">C</span>). -<span class="smcap">B</span> shows a piece -of wood cut like -a little spatula -with a somewhat -blunt handle or -head (see <span class="smcap">B</span>2). -This tongue is -placed against -the knot when -the spring hazel -stick <span class="smcap">E</span> is in position -as in <a href="#Fig_7">Fig. 7</a>. I want you to look carefully at <a href="#Fig_6">Fig. 6</a> because -it very nearly explains itself.</p> - -<div id="Fig_6" class="figright" style="width: 450px;"> -<img src="images/i008b.jpg" width="450" height="385" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p class="center">Fig. 6.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The whole apparatus is buried in the ground in the run<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_9">[9]</a></span> -of a mole, and fastened down by sticks stuck athwart and -across, as shown at <a href="#Fig_7">Fig. 7</a>. The stick <span class="smcap">E</span> is thus kept in position -by the knot <span class="smcap">C</span> and the tongue <span class="smcap">B</span> and <span class="smcap">B</span>2. When a mole -passes through the circular loops at <span class="smcap">A A</span> it hits its nose -against <span class="smcap">B</span> and knocks it out, releasing the knot <span class="smcap">C</span>, which in -turn releases the bent stick, up this flies, and one of the wires -<span class="smcap">A</span>2 are bound to catch the hapless Talpa, compressing it so -strongly as to kill it almost instantly.</p> - -<div id="Fig_7" class="figright" style="width: 400px;"> -<img src="images/i009.jpg" width="400" height="172" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p class="center">Fig. 7.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>These are the -details of how to -set the trap. -Having found -out a run where -the mole-heaps -are fresh, or have -recently been -thrown up, cut -down with the -spade end of your -tool (<a href="#Fig_3">Fig. 3</a>) into it, and with your hands take out the dirt, -feeling for and making clear the direction of the passage each -way. Now with the pointed end of <a href="#Fig_3">Fig. 3</a> make a hole slantwise, -but not too much so, for the insertion of <span class="smcap">E</span> (<a href="#Fig_6">Fig. 6</a>), -which should be a hazel, withy, or ash stick from half an inch -in diameter. Adjust the string of the trap to the top of it, -and then set the tongue, carefully spreading the loops of wire -within the hoops. Now, with the left hand on the trap, and -assisted by the knee, bend the spring stick down, place the -trap in its position, and with the right hand force in some -short hazel sticks across and across, as shown in <a href="#Fig_7">Fig. 7</a>. This -done, your trap is set, and a turf can be broken up and spread -round the top of it, to keep out any light, from the interior -of the run. If my readers have carefully gone through this -explanation with me there is no fear but that they will be -able to make and set the trap—and also catch moles.</p> - -<p>Damp weather, or after a warm shower, is the best time -to set these traps; and as many as twenty or thirty should -be systematically set per day while moles exist and good -weather lasts. The straightened character of the stick will -infallibly indicate when the trap is sprung, and if no mole -be caught move it a little farther away, but not away from -the colony entirely, and set again.</p> - -<p>The skins of the moles are in best condition in autumn, -and if a sufficient number be properly cured, and set together -by a professional furrier, a warm and rich garment, either -cloak, hat, or waistcoat can be made. I have a mole-skin -waistcoat I have worn for four winters, and it is far from being -worn out yet. Queen Victoria has eight hundred skins<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_10">[10]</a></span> -sent annually to Windsor Castle by the Park mole-catcher, -for preparation and making up. I dare say this man catches -two or three thousand moles every year, and yet the number -seem not to decline, so unfailing is the multiplication of -these velvety little fellows.</p> - -<p>The professional mole-catcher usually skins his moles in a -very summary manner. Simply passing a very sharp knife -round the head, and cutting off the forefeet, he turns the -skin off inside out as I should do an eel. Indeed, it is a -more rapid process than eel-skinning, for I once had a match -with a mole-catcher, which was that I was to skin six fair-sized -eels, while he skinned six moles. I lost, though I -am exceedingly quick with eels, by one eel, much to my annoyance, -for I had loudly boasted of my dexterity. Having -skinned his mole as I described, the mole-catcher then -simply stuffs a pledget of hay or wadding into the skin and -leaves it to dry.</p> - -<p>If you have time, however, it is much better to skin the -mole by making an incision down the belly, and taking off -the fur as you would do in the case of a rabbit. It should -then be tacked with small tin tacks to a dry board, the inside -toward you, and after removing with a blunt knife any -particles of fat, it should be dressed with a soap made as -follows:—whiting or chalk, <span class="nowrap">1 <span class="fnum">1</span>/<span class="fden">2</span></span> oz.; soft soap, 1 oz.; -chloride of lime, 2 oz. If these ingredients are not handy -powdered alum will serve, though not so well.</p> - -<p>Now, one word in conclusion of this chapter on the mole, -and it will serve as good advice whenever you are trapping. -Be quiet; do not go lumbering all over the ground with the -tread of a cart-horse, for it must be borne in mind that the -mole has not only a good perception of actual sounds, but -an exquisite sense of vibration. Like a trout, the softest -tread will in some cases apprise it of danger and cause it to -retire to its citadel. Your object is to catch moles by cutting -off their retreat, for if they are in the central habitation -they may not take the route when next a start is made that -you desire and in which the trap is set.</p> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<div class="chapter"></div><!--Page break for ePub--> - -<h2><a id="II_THE_WEASEL_STOAT_AND_POLECAT">II.<br /><span class="chapterfont">THE WEASEL, STOAT AND POLECAT.</span></a></h2> - - -<p>“If we consider the animal creation on a broad scale, the -aggregate of living beings will be found to be the devourers -and destroyers of others.” The editor of Cassel’s Natural -History is responsible for this statement, and it struck me -as a forcible and appropriate one for this chapter on weasels, -etc. Without doubt the weasel, next to the rat, is one of the -most destructive of our vermin, preying as it does with extraordinary<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_11">[11]</a></span> -ferocity on leverets, chicken, young ducks, pigeons, -rabbits, in fact, on all creatures more timorous than -itself. Truly it is not a very formidable enemy to the -farmer in connection with his granaries and other stores, for -it is an inveterate slayer of ruts and mice, but the gamekeeper -cannot tolerate it. Its “treasons, stratagems and -spoils” are, without exception, excessive above all other of -the spoiling mammalia whatsoever.</p> - -<p>Perhaps you doubt the conclusions to which I arrive in -reference to this pretty, brown-backed white-bodied little -animal, and there are some naturalists whose writings seem -to clothe it with very different characteristics. A certain -Mademoiselle de Laistre seems to contradict, in one of her -letters, the commonly received opinion that it cannot be domesticated. -She describes with touching minuteness how -her weasel would drink milk out of her hands and fondle with -her, showing signs of satisfaction and enjoyment, which could -scarcely be apart from intelligence. “The little creature,” -she says, “can distinguish my voice amid twenty others, and -springs over every one in the room till it finds me. Nothing -can exceed the lively and pleasing way it caresses me with its -two little paws; it frequently pats me on the chin in a manner -that expresses the utmost fondness. This, with a thousand -other kindnesses, convinces me of the sincerity of its -attachment. He is quite aware of my intention when dressed -to go out, and then it is with much difficulty I can rid myself -of him. On these occasions he will conceal himself behind a -cabinet near the door and spring on me as I pass with astonishing -quickness.”</p> - -<p>This testimony would seem to rather invest <i lang="la" xml:lang="la"><a id="Ref_11">mustela</a> vulgaris</i> -with domestic virtues at least rare in his family, and, -sooth to say, there is a vast crowd of witnesses waiting to be -heard, whose report of his character is far different. The -weasel, agile and lithe as he is, is ferocious to the degree -which scorns fear, and there are many instances wherein he -has attacked the absolute viceroy of creation—man.</p> - -<p>I recollect once chasing a weasel with some determination -and finding myself suddenly confronted by some seven or -eight others, who ran up my legs and endeavored to reach -my face. Fortunately I beat them off and killed seven with -the stick I carried, but I feel satisfied I should not have -escaped so well if I had not stood my ground and luckily -possessed a stick.</p> - -<p>I have frequently heard of similar experiences, and one I -find is recorded in a cutting from a Scotch newspaper in my -scrap-book.</p> - -<p>One night, it appears, the father of Captain Brown, the -naturalist, was returning from Gilmerton, near Edinburgh,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_12">[12]</a></span> -by the Dalkeith road. He observed on the high ground at -a considerable distance betwixt him and Craigmillar Castle -a man who was leaping about performing a number of antic -gestures more like those of a madman than of a sane person. -After contemplating this apparently absurd conduct, -he thought it might be some unfortunate maniac, and, -climbing over the walls, made directly towards him. When -he got pretty near he saw that the man had been attacked, -and was defending himself against the assaults of a number -of small animals which he at first took for rats, but which, -in fact, turned out on getting closer, to be a colony of from -fifteen to twenty weasels, which the unfortunate man was -tearing from him and endeavoring to keep from his throat. -Had he not been a powerful man, capable of sustaining the -extreme fatigue of this singular exertion, he probably would -have succumbed to the repeated efforts made by the ferocious -little creatures to get at his throat. As it was, his -hands were much bitten, and bleeding profusely.</p> - -<p>It further appears that the commencement of the battle -was nearly as follows. He was walking slowly through the -park when he happened to see a weasel. He ran at it, and -made several unsuccessful attempts to strike it with a small -cane he held in his hand. On coming near the rock, he got -between it and the animal, and thus cut off retreat. The -weasel squeaked out aloud, when a sortie of the whole colony -was made, and the affray commenced.</p> - -<p>Apropos of this, I have read somewhere of a colony of -rats attacking a condemned criminal in the sewers of Paris—or -in a dungeon closely contiguous—and I can quite believe -that hunger and numbers would render these horrible -vermin capable of homicide.</p> - -<p>I do not quite see how any one can pity the members of -this weasel family. Let any one of my boy readers hear the -agonized cries of a pursued rabbit as it finds its relentless foe -chasing it with a determination and persistence quite unequaled, -and he will probably find the American love of fair -play prompt him to take the weaker creature’s part.</p> - -<p>Emphatically I declare it—a weasel never relinquishes its -quarry till the life’s blood has been sucked and the brain extracted -and eaten. Then wasteful as the little tyrant is, the -rats may have the remainder, whilst it seeks for more prey. -Its little finger-thick body and black, venom-leaden eyes -seem the incarnation of destructiveness, whilst over the -sharp incisive teeth rows might well be written</p> - -<p class="center">“Ch’entrate lasciate ogni speranza,” -</p> - -<p>the terrible epigraph Dante, in his wonderful “Divina Commedia,” -saw inscribed over the portals of the infernal -regions.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_13">[13]</a></span></p> - -<p>Perhaps there is one redeeming feature in all this pitiless -ferocity, and that is the indomitable courage with which -the weasel defends its young against all marauders. It -breeds as fast as a rabbit—that is, two or three, or even -more times in a year—and its nest of dried herbage and undergrowth -is generally made in the hollow of some old tree -or wall. Close by the nest may often be found the remains -of putrid mice, rats, birds, etc., which circumstance has -suggested to some naturalists the conclusion that the weasel -prefers carrion to fresh food. This is erroneous. It is true -that it hunts, like some dogs, entirely, or nearly so, by scent, -and will even follow the sightless mole through the interminable -windings of its burrow; but fresh flesh and blood -are its delight, and if there be a plentitude of food it disdains -all the grosser parts of its prey with a fastidiousness worthy -of Apicius, the <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">gourmet</i>. The weasel generally produces -five or six young ones at a birth.</p> - -<div id="Fig_11" class="figright" style="width: 450px;"> -<img src="images/i013.jpg" width="450" height="285" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p class="center">Fig. 11.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>I do not -counsel -sparing the -weasel any -more than -the rat. The -best place -for the gins -to be set is -underneath -a wall -whereby the -weasel is -known to -travel. The -best trap -unquestionably -is the steel trap, or gin, and the best bait is the -inside of a newly-killed rabbit. This is the concrete essence -of my experience. You can scent the bait with musk, -and this addition will often prove of exceeding service. At -the ends of drains, in the hollows of old buildings, in the -dry tracts of ditches, by old trees—all these are likely places -and a careful watch will often discover their tracks. In setting -the gin do not allow it to spring hard as if you expected -an elephant of the Jumbo type to tread on the plate. On -the contrary, let it spring very lightly, and if possible hang -the bait up, so that the creature puts a foot on the plate and -so gets caught. A very good sort of trap for open places is -a fall-trap, which may be made at home and is useful for -nearly all kinds of vermin, including even birds (See <a href="#Fig_11">Fig. 11</a>).<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_14">[14]</a></span> -Some little explanation is needed for the complete understanding -of this trap. <span class="smcap">A</span> is a board hollowed near the letter -<span class="smcap">A</span> to relieve <em>e</em> when the trap falls. <span class="smcap">B</span> is a slab of lead or -iron cut to admit <em>a</em> and <em>f</em>; <em>h</em> is a hinge holding <em>c</em>, which, -when adjusted at <em>g</em>, impinges on <em>a</em>, and so sustains the slab -<span class="smcap">B</span>. On the little hooks <em>d</em> the bait is fixed, and the weasel -confidently places his foot on <em>e</em>. Of course <em>f</em> then springs -from <em>g</em> and down falls the slab, crushing the captive instantly. -A stone slab is quite as useful, if not more so, than -lead or iron, and it is evident that this fall-trap can be set -with the greatest ease and delicacy.</p> - -<div id="Fig_12" class="figright" style="width: 450px;"> -<img src="images/i014.jpg" width="450" height="294" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p class="center">Fig. 12.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The next useful trap is termed “The Fig. 4 Trap,” from -its resemblance to that character, and is shown in the engraving -(<a href="#Fig_12">Fig. 12</a>). This consists of a large slab of stone, -metal, or wood, propped up by three pieces of wood (<span class="smcap">A</span>, <span class="smcap">B</span> and -<span class="smcap">C</span>). If the engraving be carefully examined it will be seen to -consist of -a perpendicular -<span class="smcap">A</span>, -of a horizontal -bar -<span class="smcap">C</span>, at one -end of -which is -attached -the bait <span class="smcap">D</span>, -and of a -slanting -stick <span class="smcap">B</span>. -The upright -<span class="smcap">A</span> is -usually -half an -inch square, and cut to a sort of chisel-shape at top; a notch -is also cut in the side of the stretcher <span class="smcap">C</span>, as shown in the -side diagram <em>x</em>, to prevent it slipping down; and a notch is -also cut at the top of <span class="smcap">B</span> to receive the upright, as well as in -<span class="smcap">C</span>, to fix it, <span class="smcap">B</span> being at this latter point of a chisel shape. It -will be obvious to the attentive reader that if this trap be set -carefully, and with a sufficiency of delicacy, a very slight -tug at <span class="smcap">D</span> will be sufficient to bring down the slab, crushing -the animal, or, if a hollow be made in the ground, imprisoning -it. This trap, for nearly all vermin (of course, except -moles), is very cheap and effective; and for cats—in their -wrong places, of course—is remarkably useful, especially if -<span class="smcap">D</span> represent a sponge, on which tincture of valerian or oil of -rhodium has been sprinkled. One advantage of this trap is -that it is inexpensive, and not likely to be coveted by anybody<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_15">[15]</a></span> -else. The gin has, however, preference in my mind -over other artificial traps for weasels, and I counsel all my -readers to adopt it as the surest if their pockets will sustain -the initial expense. There is, however, nothing lost in endeavoring -to make your own traps, for such perseverance -implies interest in the pursuit of trapping, and this necessarily -is the central motive towards the acquirement of natural -knowledge.</p> - -<p>There is one method of capturing weasels which I have -found very useful, though it entails the loss of an innocent -live bird in many cases. Form a sort of oblong square with -brushwood and close it all in except two narrow lanes leading -to the center, at which point peg down a young chicken -or bird. Set the traps, as closely concealed as possible at -the ends of these lanes, so that neither by ingress nor egress -can the weasel escape without the chance of being caught. -Each trap should be set very lightly, and in some dry ditch -near a covert, or by the side of a wall, or, in fact, in any -likely spot recognized by the trained eye.</p> - -<p>Here is another bad character in the polecat, or foumart, -and as it is the largest of the two, it commonly does most -damage, though in saying this I really am not sure I can -place either or them first in this respect. The weasel and -polecat are unmitigated robbers and assassins, and according -to opportunity are given indifferently to bad habits of the -worst character. The polecat is, however, nearly sixteen inches -from that to eighteen inches in length, and its bite is -terrific and sometimes poisonous. Beware, therefore, of it -when releasing one caught in a trap; in fact, as I before impressed -on you, “kill it first.” The body of the polecat has -a woolly undercoat of pale yellow, while the longer hairs are -of a deep glossy brown.</p> - -<p>Its habits are very similar to those of the weasel, and it -commonly kills chickens by biting the head off and then sucking -the blood, leaving perhaps a dozen bodies as mementoes -of its visitation. I have known it to catch fish, and I caught -one in a trap, set as I supposed at the time, for an otter. -The otter turned out to be a polecat, however, which measured, -exclusive of the tail, fourteen inches. Eels seemed to -be the prey for which it took water, as I had previously found -the remains of several half-eaten on the shore.</p> - -<p>This circumstance was a strange one to me, and altogether -exceptional, until I looked up my natural history books, -when I found that Bewick refers to a similar fact in his -“Quadrupeds.” He says:—“During a severe storm one of -these animals was traced in the snow from the side of a rivulet -to its hole at some distance from it.... Its -hole was examined, the foumart taken, and eleven fine eels<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_16">[16]</a></span> -were discovered as the fruits of its nocturnal exertions. The -marks on the snow were found to have been made by the -motions of the eels while in the creature’s mouth.” We -have no reason for doubting Bewick, but it is certain that -the polecat must have extracted the eels from either beneath -stones or mud, where, during cold weather such as described, -it is their infallible habit to retire in a semi-torpid condition.</p> - -<p>In trapping it use a strong gin, and set very lightly. The -baits are precisely similar to those for the weasel. Be, -above all, careful to use the naked hands as little as possible.</p> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<div class="chapter"></div><!--Page break for ePub--> -<h2><a id="III_RATS">III.<br /><span class="chapterfont">RATS.</span></a></h2> - - -<p>Rats may, I think, fairly lay claim to being the most mischievous -of all vermin. They are fellows of irreclaimably -bad habits, and never so happy as when devouring or destroying -something. Artemus Ward has placed it on record -that “Injins is pisen wherever you meet ’em,” and the same -might be said of rats. In that exquisitely whimsical -poem of Browning’s, “The Pied Piper of Hamelin,” we are -told that the townspeople were plagued emphatically with</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="stanza"> -<div class="indenttwo">“Rats!</div> -<div class="indentbase">They fought the dogs and killed the cats,</div> -<div class="indentone">And bit the babies in their cradles,</div> -<div class="indentbase">And ate the cheeses out of the vats,</div> -<div class="indentone">And licked the soup from the cook’s own ladles.</div> -<div class="indentbase">Split open the kegs of salted sprats,</div> -<div class="indentbase">Made nests inside men’s Sunday hats,</div> -<div class="indentbase">And even spoiled the women’s chats</div> -<div class="indentone">By drowning their speaking</div> -<div class="indentone">With shrieking and squeaking</div> -<div class="indentbase">In fifty different sharps and flats.”</div> -</div></div></div> - -<p>I have not the least doubt but that they did all this and -other things worse; hence I would say with no uncertainty, -“Slay all and spare none,” whenever you get a chance. I -do not know of one redeeming feature in the character of -<i lang="la" xml:lang="la">Mus decumanus</i> unless it be good in a pie, as our friend -the Rev. J. G. Wood hints that it is from experimental trial.</p> - -<p>Hundreds on hundreds of tales relating to its cunning or -intelligence might be cited until you were heartily tired of -reading, much less I of writing. How rats will bite holes -in leaden pipes, attack the face of a sleeping infant—an instance -of which I might relate from actual knowledge—how -they devour each other, leaving only the skin turned inside -out as neatly as you could turn a stocking, and last, but far<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_17">[17]</a></span> -from least, how they have been trained to perform a drama -in pantomime and various other tricks quite too numerous -to refer to here. The rat is practically omnivorous, and so -gets his living where more select appetites and digestions -would starve. “Hit him ’ard, he ain’t a’ got no friends,” -as was said of the pauper boy in “Oliver Twist.” Every -creature’s hand seems turned against him, and we, agreeably -to this bent of nature, will now proceed to compass his destruction -by means of trapping.</p> - -<div id="Fig_8" class="figright" style="width: 400px;"> -<img src="images/i017a.jpg" width="400" height="82" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p class="center">Fig. 8.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>Unquestionably the best trap is the common iron gin. -Everybody knows what that is like, with its centre plate -and formidable rows of teeth on either side the jaws. I shall -therefore spare you a drawing and description of it, and content -myself with simply advising that the teeth be of the -shape shown at <a href="#Fig_8">Fig. 8</a>—that is, square points fitting when -closed in half -circles. Now -this form of -tooth does -not cut -through the -limb of the -captured animal so readily as the saw-shaped does, and is -preferable on that account. Rats are very prone to gnaw -through a fractured limb and free themselves—they will not -do this nearly so readily, however, if the teeth be of the -shape indicated. This is also the best shape for the capture -of other vermin, as we shall see as these chapters -proceed.</p> - -<div id="Fig_9" class="figleft" style="width: 120px;"> -<img src="images/i017b.jpg" width="120" height="459" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p class="center">Fig. 9.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>In all cases a chain about eighteen inches is attached -by means of an S hook in the gin. A swivel -should be placed about the middle, and a ring of -about an inch and a quarter should terminate it. A -good stout stake, about eighteen inches long, is -also necessary, and ash is particularly recommendable -if it can be procured. If it be trimmed when -cut, like <a href="#Fig_9">Fig. 9</a>, so that a short piece of branch -keeps the ring from slipping off, so much the better. -Another tool which is ever useful when gins are -being set (and that will be pretty frequent with the -vermin I shall speak about) is a hammer shaped -something like <a href="#Fig_10">Fig. 10</a>. You will see that it has a -broad, hatchet-like form to it instead of the claws -of an ordinary hammer, and this is for cutting into the earth, -separating roots, etc. In twenty ways it comes in useful, so -I advise my readers to get one made after this pattern.</p> - -<div id="Fig_10" class="figleft" style="width: 400px;"> -<img src="images/i018.jpg" width="400" height="178" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p class="center">Fig. 10.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>Be careful in setting your trap to keep your fingers well -away from the teeth, and to do this observe the following<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_18">[18]</a></span> -method. Place your right foot upon the spring firmly, and -as the jaws fall back, quickly lift the catch over with your -right hand; then, without relaxing pressure, raise the plate -of the trap from underneath until it allows of the catch to -meet the nick in the plate. Set them lightly or hard, according -to the animal to be trapped. Experience will soon -enable you to judge how this should be for a rat. A fine -sieve is generally -used by trappers to -sift dirt over the -trap when set, but -you can dispense -with this if you wear -gloves. In rat-trapping, -by the by, -always wear thick -gloves; rats can -smell you infallibly.</p> - -<p>You can easily detect a rat-run, and quite as easily tell if -it be fresh or not, by noticing the appearance of the excrement. -Having determined on a fresh run, endeavor so to -set your trap that the catch shall be light, and the whole affair -completely hidden from sight, the pan or plate being -baited with whatever seems to have been the recent food, or -food most likely to be got near by the run. For rats in runs -where they come to feed, by walls, rick-sides, or places at -which they appear most, the traps should be set. When -the run appear stale or not much used, they should be -shifted to other places. For rats a great variety of baits -may be used, but the best is generally something like what -they are in the habit of feeding upon on farm premises; -grain, with sufficient chaff or cut hay to cover the bottom, -meal mixed with sweet broth or small bits of meat. Rats -may be enticed with oils of aniseed, thyme, and rhodium, -and when traps are new and smell of the shop a few drops -should be rubbed inside the bottom of the traps to take the -other smell away. By using a drag of these oils, rubbed on -a herring or a piece of clean rag, rats may be enticed a long -way.</p> - -<p>A capital bait for old poaching rats—such as would not -hesitate to kill your spring chickens or young rabbits—is -the drawing of game of any sort, or the young of pigeons or -young birds. I have also found the following a capital -dodge to enable one to overcome the cunning of an old buck -rat. Get some sprats and pound them. Put them in glass -bottles and cork and seal, and hang them up in the sun for -three weeks or so, or put them on a dung-hill of moderate -heat. This will entirely decompose and resolve them into an<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_19">[19]</a></span> -oily substance exceedingly bad smelling. Pour some of this -on a rag and drag it about from a common center where the -trap is, and indeed it is well to drag it after one as the traps -are seen to successively. The trap bait should be roasted -salt fish. A kippered herring does famously, and a few drops -of oil of aniseed can be put on the bait. I have known this -to be exceedingly successful.</p> - -<p>A similar sort of treatment is necessary for the water-rat. -There is, however, but little necessity to use baits if the trap -be set under water at the spot where the creature emerges. -The precise place can be easily seen, and its freshness or -staleness as a “run” be determined in the same way as that -of a brown rat. The water-rat is easily distinguished from -its cousin the brown by the tail of the former being covered -with hair and that of the latter with scales, of which there are -200 rows. It must not be supposed, however, because -the water-rat derives its living from the water chiefly that it -is not a destructive creature inland. A very interesting -writer says: “We have seen water-rats cross a wide meadow, -climb the stalks of the dwarf beans, and after detaching the -pods with their teeth, shell the beans in a most woman-like -manner.” They are also said to mount vines and feed on -grapes, and I can verify that they are fond of plums from -the following incident:</p> - -<p>Between my study window and the margin of a stream at -the foot of my garden stand two tall trees of the bullace plum, -and this year they have been unusually full of fruit. I placed -a ladder against one of the trees in order to pick the plums, -but rain or some other interference prevented my doing so at -the intended time; thus the ladder remained for some days. -Now I have a large tabby cat, and besides a good rat-killer -she is fond of birds, and strangely enough will climb trees -and spring at a bird within reach, in nine cases out of ten -falling to the ground with her captive in her mouth. As I sat -writing one morning Tabby mounted her coign of vantage by -means of the ladder, and scaled to the topmost height, enjoying -the sunshine, and not, I fancy, on this occasion waiting -for prey. However, good things come when least expected, -and presently Tabby and I both beheld a large water-rat—unseen -by the latter, of course—approach the ladder, -and after peering slyly round, began to mount it, which he -did with remarkable agility. On reaching the first large -branch he stepped on it, and without the least hesitation made -for a cluster of the plums and began his feast. I told you -Tabby saw him as well as I, and I would have given much -too if she had not. As Mr. Rat sat absorbed with his back -to her, like a jungle leopard, creeping with silent certainty -on its innocent, unsuspecting prey, Tabby slowly approached,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_20">[20]</a></span> -and the steadfast glare in her greenish eyes was full of a deadly -purpose, which gathered strength as she progressed. Presently, -when within three feet of the still gourmandizing rat, -her fell purpose culminated in a terrific but unerring spring, -which tumbled rat and cat out of the tree to the ground. -Habet! alas! he had it, and after a few terrific crunches of -her jaws Tabby rose from the body proudly, with swinging -tail and a victorious air, which as plainly as language conveyed -infinite self-complacency at the death-dealing deed.</p> - -<p>These rats are more clever in boring their tunnels than the -brown species, resembling, in fact, the ingenuity of the mole -rather than the rat. They are much more cleanly also. -Should you get an apple or pear or melon which has been -bitten by a brown rat you will instantly detect it by its peculiar -musty odor and taste. The water-rat is, on the contrary, -a much more cleanly animal, and its flesh is not uncommonly -eaten by the French peasants on <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">maigre</i> days. -It breeds in the spring, and again in autumn if the spring -litter be very early, bringing forth five or six at a time. The -nest is usually by the side of a river or stream. In the roots -of an old willow tree just opposite my house I found six nests -this year. Not that these rats will not at times build away -from the water. I know of several instances, as a neighbor -was plowing in a dry, chalky field, far removed from any -water, he turned out a water rat that was curiously laid up -in an <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">hybernaculum</i> artificially formed of grass and leaves. -At one end lay about a gallon of potatoes, regularly stowed, -on which it was to have supported itself for the winter.</p> - -<p>When a rat is caught in a gin always be careful to keep -your hand at a distance on releasing it. In fact, do not let -it go at all, but kill it at once. I do not like the idea of letting -a suffering animal be farther tormented by dogs, or even -cats. There can be no true sport in it except, perhaps, to -the savage instincts of the dog, and why a human being -should find cruel sport for a dog I cannot tell you.</p> - -<p>The other species, the black rat (<i lang="la" xml:lang="la">Mus rattus</i>), is perhaps -a more ancient importation even than the brown. It is, -however, scarcer than either of the others. Its colors are -grayish black above and ash-colored, and beneath it is about -seven and a half inches long when full grown.</p> - -<p>Ferrets are often employed to aid in exterminating the -brown rat. The ferret is of no use whatever for the water-rat, -though it is certainly extremely useful when barns, wood-heaps, -and such like erections are infested. The gun is the -thing, in the hands of an experienced sportsman, to kill them -as the ferrets force them to leave their homes, but a few sharp -dogs and a half dozen sharp school-fellows with sticks will -produce very certain destruction. Be careful not to mistake<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_21">[21]</a></span> -the head of a ferret coming out of a hole for that of a -rat, as once happened to me in this wise. I was staying at -a farm-house, and it was proposed one fine December morning -to try an hour or two’s ferreting. My school chum, with -whom I was staying, possessed some very tame and good -working ferrets, one in particular, a fine brownish dog ferret, -by which he set great store. The great wheat barn was to -be laid siege to, and he being a good shot and older than I, -took down his gun and loaded it preparatory to starting.</p> - -<p>“Jack,” said he to me, “you can shoot, can’t you?” I -was but fourteen then and a school boy, and I fear I answered -rather too readily and without sufficient modesty, -“Oh, yes; have you a gun to spare?” Yes, he had a single-barrel -pretty little weapon, and, proud as a cock-robin, I -sallied forth, on mighty shots intent. “Now,” said he, -with emphasis, “stand here; watch that hole, and as soon -as you see the <em>whole</em> of a rat’s body fire away, but be careful -not to kill a ferret, which you may easily do if you fire too -hastily.” I recollect I rather scorned the idea of mistaking -a ferret for a rat, and with steadfast attention prepared to -kill the first of the rodents that appeared. It seemed an -age, and then one swiftly popped his head out and bolted past -me, my fire hitting the ground at least a yard behind him. -How savage I was! not to speak of the half sneers of my -companions. Next time I would be ready. Ah! there was -a slight movement in the hole, a small nose poked itself out -and then disappeared. I pointed the gun straight for the -hole. Out it came again, and then a brown head swiftly -appeared. Bang! Hurrah! I had killed him. Round came -the boys. “Well done,” said my friend Ted, as he stooped -to draw out the murdered wretch. “Why, you duffing idiot, -you’ve killed my best dog ferret!” Moral, do not jump at -conclusions.</p> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<div class="chapter"></div><!--Page break for ePub--> -<h2><a id="IV_THE_OTTER">IV.<br /><span class="chapterfont">THE OTTER.</span></a></h2> - - -<p>The otter is one of the most graceful of living creatures, -but as a fisherman and fishculturist, I candidly confess that -I look on him as a detestable nuisance on my river. What -says the poet!</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="stanza"> -<div class="indentthree">“Nor spears</div> -<div class="indentbase">That bristle on his back defend the perch</div> -<div class="indentbase">From his wide, greedy jaws; nor burnished mail</div> -<div class="indentbase">The yellow carp; nor all his arts can save</div> -<div class="indentbase">Th’ insinuating eel, that hides his head</div> -<div class="indentbase">Beneath the slimy mud; nor yet escapes</div> -<div class="indentbase">The crimson-spotted trout, the river’s pride</div> -<div class="indentbase">And beauty of the stream.”</div> -</div></div></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_22">[22]</a></span></p> - -<p>This is a faithful picture of the otter’s remorseless and predacious -nature. I caught one the other day in an eel-grate, -whither he had doubtless gone for the eels. The biter was, -however, bit, for the rush of water was too powerful, and -on opening the door in the morning I found him dead and -stiff.</p> - -<p>The otter usually kills many more fish than it actually -wants for food, and as otters generally hunt in pairs, it is -not uncommon to find in the morning as many as thirteen -or fourteen prime trout—in an ordinarily plentiful river, of -course—killed and only partly eaten. Like the lord mayor’s -jester, however, the otter knows what is good, or, indeed, -best, for it eats away the shoulders of the fish, leaving -the rest to rot or be devoured by rats.</p> - -<p>I have said it is graceful, and so it is, in a remarkable degree. -Let me advise you, if you live in New York, to visit -the Zoological Gardens, in Central Park, and watch the fine -sinuous turns and sweeps as the otter seizes or seeks for its -prey. Its body is long and flexible, and its feet short and -webbed, and the adjacent muscles are of immense muscular -power. Its eyes are large, the ears short, and it is bewhiskered -like a Viking. Its coat is double, like that of the -seal. Long glossy hairs form the outer one, and a short -waterproof woolly waistcoat comprises the inner, so that -neither cold nor wet can affect the well-being of this amphibious -hunter. In the daytime it hides itself in its hole, -which usually is some feet deep in the bank, <em>above</em> highwater -mark, but at night its depredations commence; and -when the female has young, say five, and the male otter -works with her, as he generally does, I estimate that from -thirty to forty fish per night are, if anything, rather within -the number than beyond. Can any one deny, therefore, -that the otter comes within the common-sense definition of -vermin?</p> - -<p>If the otter be taken young, and great kindness and care -be shown it, it may be transferred from the category of vermin -into that of “pets,” and I do not think there is a much -more interesting pet in existence, and I recollect one which -used to run about after its master at Eton, England, some -years since. A friend of mine (head river-keeper on a nobleman’s -estate) took a tame one from an old poacher which -the latter had constantly employed to catch fish and bring to -him. My friend tells me that when he caught the poacher he -had some sixty fine trout, scarcely injured, in a bag, all of -which had been captured by the otter.</p> - -<p>There are many instances of a similar character referred -to in the natural history books which I cannot produce here. -It is sufficient to say that otter-taming, and even the utilizing<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_23">[23]</a></span> -of the creature for fishing purposes, is by no means uncommon.</p> - -<p>The otter is usually hunted with dogs of a particular -breed, but I shall not attempt to describe this species of -sport in this place. There are those who object to hunting -on principle, and I am not bigoted enough to say they are -altogether wrong. Certain, however, it is that otter hunting -is remarkably exhilarating, and there is a great deal of -fun to be got out of the mishaps which are sure to ensue to -the hunters as they scamper and splash and rush and dash -over the bowlders, through bush and brier and stream and -rivulet, till the wily brute is either caught or “kenneled.” -So far as we are now concerned, I shall content myself -with telling you how to trap this vermin of the water, and -if ever you become possessed of a stream or lake of fish do -not forget that the otter is your chiefest enemy—excepting -the human poacher, of course.</p> - -<p>Now we will presume you are one morning early taking a -walk by the side of your favorite stream. On each side the -willows and alders bend over the water and their roots -clutch the banks with rugged fingers, forming coverts for -rats, moorhens, dabchicks, and other small fry, as well as -for the quiet-loving trout.</p> - -<p>Presently, as you attentively note these features, you are -aware of a sort of footpath proceeding from the stream, and -on looking closer you notice that fresh excrement has been -left and that footprints of a dog-like animal are to be seen -in the soft earth. Follow this trail and perchance, ere many -steps have been taken, you come upon the carmine-spotted -body of a two-pound trout, minus head and shoulders, or a -pound silver eel with its broadest part eaten away. You now -know that an otter has been at work, and you must vow that -he shall die. But how? Listen. The track is fresh. Good! -Procure the largest rabbit-gin you can, and after attaching -it firmly to a stake driven under water, drive two more -sticks under water exactly where the otter comes ashore, -and set it upon them. Do not bait the trap at all, or the -otter will not come near, but simply set it under water, so -that when his ottership comes to bank with his ill-gotten -booty he puts his foot on the plate of the gin. A good plan -also, where this one is not practicable, is to carefully cut up -a sod of dirt in the pathway of the otter, and set the gin -very gingerly, covering it up completely with short grass -and a sprinkling of dirt. In any case use gloves, so that -your hands are not smelt, for, strange as it may seem in an -animal getting its food by sight, the sense of smell is exquisitely -developed in the otter. When caught be very careful -not to handle him. His teeth are “orful.”</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_24">[24]</a></span></p> - -<p>Daniel, in his “Rural Sports,” says “the trap must be set -in and covered with mud to prevent the otter seeing it. The -instant the trap strikes, the otter plunges into the water with -it, when its weight preventing his rising to the surface soon -destroys him.” But I incline to my own plan -in preference. Of course, if the “spoor,” -“spraint,” or “seal” cannot be seen it is advisable -to set several traps at intervals along -the bank, covering them lightly with moss.</p> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<div class="chapter"></div><!--Page break for ePub--> -<h2><a id="V_THE_SQUIRREL">V.<br /><span class="chapterfont">THE SQUIRREL.</span></a></h2> - - -<p>At the commencement of this series of articles -I referred to the squirrel, and quoted the -words in which Mr. Ruskin describes his unbounded -admiration for this sprightly little fellow. -The squirrel has a very voracious appetite, -however, and if he once by accident or design -tastes the luscious richness of pheasant or partridge -egg he becomes a poacher of very extreme -character. Game-keepers do not object -to squirrels as a rule, as long as they confine -themselves to those parts of a covert where -game are not, though in the case of largely -stocked preserves these parts are not easily -found.</p> - -<p>When Master “Squiggy,” however, takes to -sucking eggs and teaching his grandmother -and uncles, aunts and cousins, to do the same, -then it becomes a manifest duty to snare him -and take him away if you do not kill him. Of -course it is not likely that my boy readers will -be called upon to assist professionally in such a -proceeding, but I will briefly describe how squirrels -may be caught alive, for when removed -from the place of mischief they make capital -pets after a time of patience and taming.</p> - -<div id="Fig_1" class="figleft" style="width: 77px;"> -<img src="images/i024.jpg" width="77" height="650" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p class="center">Fig. 1.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>It is necessary for two to embark in the proceedings -that follow. One is the climber, and -he, I need scarcely say, should be a tolerably -good one. A pair of climbing irons are almost -indispensable, and I should certainly advise -boys to get them. He is also provided with a -long pole with a loop of fine twisted brass wire -attached to it (<a href="#Fig_1">Fig. 1</a>).</p> - -<p>Now let us term these two warriors <span class="smcap">A</span> and <span class="smcap">B</span>. Having -spotted a squirrel and observed him run up a tree, A attaches -his irons and prepares to climb. Before this is done <span class="smcap">B</span> stands<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_25">[25]</a></span> -beneath the tree and attracts the squirrel’s attention, and -keeps his eye fixed on him, <span class="smcap">B</span> never moving from where he -stands. Meanwhile <span class="smcap">A</span> is gradually approaching from behind -the squirrel, and when he is near enough he slips the loop -over the creature’s head, gives a sharp wrench, and lets the -pole, squirrel, and all drop to the ground to be secured by -<span class="smcap">B</span>. Of course the squirrel is almost choked, but a firm hand -in a thick leather glove soon releases the frightened animal, -and you have to do with him as your pleasure will. You -ought to take a bag with you and instantly pop him into it. -This is the way the men catch squirrels in the country, and -is far better than trapping them so as to cause pain.</p> - -<p>I have thus told you how to catch squirrels without materially -hurting them, and I suppose I may as well tell you -how to keep them. Well, having caught the lively young -gentleman, keep him in the dark for a day or two, only -occasionally letting him get a glance of the outer world. -Feed him during this period with beechnuts, chestnuts, and -by all means let him have plenty of water. After a time -you may take away all covering from his cage and let him, -like yourself, enjoy the glories of the sunlight. In a very -short space of time his captivity will cease to be so irksome, -especially if for the first week or two you use him -to only seeing yourself near.</p> - -<p>The squirrel, or at least the common red one of our forest, -seems remarkably intelligent, and its humors vary almost -as much in comparison as those of a child. I kept -four, having brought them up from the nest, and their -antics and different moods were a source of continued amusement. -Sometimes Tom would quarrel with a sort of mimic -anger with Jill, and Jim and Sam were almost continually -finding fault with each other over poor unfortunate Lady -Jill, whose chief misfortune seemed to be that she preferred -Tom to either of the others. The affection seemed -to be returned, for if we gave a piece of potato to Tom he -instantly passed it over to Jill and shared it. Sometimes -entire good-humor would prevail, when the gambols with -each other were a very pretty sight. This was generally -on a fine sunny spring morning after a good meal of nuts. -The cage was large, and a sort of leap-frog was kept up -for half an hour, ending by somebody getting Tom’s temper -out over Miss Jill. I never had a bite from either, -and this I attribute to my never handling them unnecessarily, -and never being afraid to take hold of them carefully -but firmly.</p> - -<p>Their end was a sad one. I acquired a splendid Persian -cat, and the strangeness of a new habitation made Miss -Pussy very spiteful and bad-tempered. One day I had turned<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_26">[26]</a></span> -out the four squirrels in order to clean the cage thoroughly, -and they as usual betook themselves out of the window. -With a sudden bound Puss had poor Jill, and with -one scrunch she was dead. Puss then bounded after the -others, and they escaping up a large yew tree I lost sight of -all but one forever. What ultimately became of Jim and -Sam I never knew, but Tom would often show himself in -the tree and look down with eyes which seemed to say mournfully, -“Ah, you’ve killed my little wife between you, and -I’m not such a coon as to trust myself within range of her -murderers.” Shortly after this we removed, and thus ended -my squirrel-keeping, not, however, without much regret on -my side at least.</p> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<div class="chapter"></div><!--Page break for ePub--> -<h2><a id="VI_BIRD_TRAPPING">VI.<br /><span class="chapterfont">BIRD TRAPPING.</span></a></h2> - - -<p>Bird-catching has always a fascination for boys, and, indeed, -in my opinion, as a harmless but most interesting -pastime, it may be compared not unfavorably with fishing.</p> - -<p>“But,” I hear some one say, “is it not cruel to catch and -imprison or kill our pretty feathered friends, and if so, is it -not wrong to teach boys cruelty?” I answer emphatically -“No” to the first of these, and that reply does away with -the other question.</p> - -<p>It is not cruel to catch the hawk that preys on kindred -species, as does the shark or pike, or the beautiful kingfisher -that ruthlessly slaughters your innocent baby trout, or -the weird and ghostly heron, whose insatiable maw will ever -cry, “Give! Give!” like the daughters of the horseleech, -from every inhabited stream, or the bad-mannered crow, or -the mischievous jay with his egg-eating proclivities.</p> - -<p>Then there are some birds, such as pigeons, blackbirds, -thrushes, redwings and plovers, and the water-fowl, such as -moorhens, widgeon, teal, ducks, etc., which are excellent -eating, and who shall say that to kill and eat necessarily -implies cruelty?</p> - -<p>“But about the pretty song-birds?” you say. Well, now, -what bird is happier in captivity than your consequential -cock bullfinch, or merry-voiced chaffinch? And are there -more annoying birds in existence to those who live by the -soil? If you doubt me, go and ask the gardener and hear -what he says about Chaffy’s and Bully’s work on the fruitbuds. -Then remember what present pleasure the joyous -song of the well-fed and warmly-caged linnet or siskin gives -to all; but perchance most of all to some one whose hours -are spent wearily on the bed of pain.</p> - -<p>Of course, catching birds for the mere sake of doing it is<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_27">[27]</a></span> -wrong, and pray is not fishing liable to the same objection? -To go out for the mere purpose of bringing home lots of fish, -which are afterwards put to no use, is an abuse of an otherwise -harmless sport to which such great and good men as -Izaak Walton, Sir Henry Wotton, Archbishop Paley, Charles -Kingsley, Mr. John Bright, and many others, have been and -are devoted.</p> - -<p>Besides, the methods I shall explain, except for the larger -birds of prey—<em>vermin</em>, in fact—need cause no pain to the -captured bird, or if it does, only of the most instant character, -which is over when the bird is dead or caged. The -wildest birds require only proper treatment to render them -happy in confinement, and of this fact I was never more -forcibly convinced than when, visiting a very experienced -bird-catcher the other day, I saw a huge tabby tom-cat reposing -in the cage of a cock gold-finch, whose sweet song -must have lulled the cat to sleep and a forgetfulness of its -fierce destroying instincts. Hearing it sing, I could not help -recalling Walton’s pious and beautiful reflection anent the -nightingale: “Lord, what music hast Thou provided for Thy -saints in heaven when Thou affordest bad men such music on -earth!”</p> - -<p>Finally, in defense of the bird catcher’s art, let me urge the -benefit young people derive from an intimate knowledge of -the natural history of birds and their surroundings. As in -fishing the best naturalist in fish is invariably the best angler, -so whether he be scientific or not, the best ornithologist is, -by virtue of his knowledge, inevitably the most successful -bird-catcher. Nothing can conduce to an unaffected love of -nature—the “time vesture” of God, Carlyle terms it—more -readily than close observation of the habits, instincts, and intelligences -of the creatures over which man has been given -dominion.</p> - -<p>Birds, the flight of which man, with all his mechanical ingenuity, -had never yet been able to imitate, are of the -most beautiful and wonderful of these, and their capture within -the limits I have laid down is a pastime at once innocent, -amusing, instructive and profitable. One word more. Be -gentle boys, and then presently become gentle<em>men</em> in the true -sense of the word, and handle each captive, if it be alive, mercifully, -“as if you loved him,” inflicting no unnecessary pain -or discomfort in any wise.</p> - -<p>Having then in some sort justified bird-catching, if indeed -this was needed, let me say how I intend treating the subject -in the few following chapters. First, with your attention, -I will refer to bird-catching by net; secondly, catching -birds by bird-lime; and thirdly, trapping birds, which latter division -will embrace the various use of the springs, traps, snares,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_28">[28]</a></span> -gins, etc., in vogue amongst professional trappers, game-keepers -and others. As the directions will be severely practical, -any one will be able to succeed from them—assuming, -of course, he has the requisite patience. There is one thing, -however, to be borne in mind, that is—there is a Wild Birds’ -Preservation Act, which, inefficient and muddling as it is, is -nevertheless the law of the land, and in it a close time is -provided, during which bird-catching is illegal.</p> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<div class="chapter"></div><!--Page break for ePub--> -<h2><a id="VII_BIRD-CATCHING_BY_NET">VII.<br /><span class="chapterfont">BIRD-CATCHING BY NET.</span></a></h2> - - -<p>There are several sorts of nets used for various species of -birds, but for song birds the most common is termed the -clap-net, of -which <a href="#Fig_a1">Fig. 1</a> is -an outline representation. -In -looking carefully -at it you will -see I have left -one side without -netting; -this, however, -should of course -have a net; -consider, therefore, -the two -sides as similar -to that on which -the net is -shown.</p> - -<div id="Fig_a1" class="figleft" style="width: 400px;"> -<img src="images/i028.jpg" width="400" height="549" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p class="center">Fig. 1.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>Now the net -from which the -drawing was -taken was -somewhat different -from the -usual kind. -Those ordinarily -used are of -twine, and netted -diagonally -with mesh three -quarter inches.</p> - -<p>This one, however, if of silk undressed fishing line, -and of half-inch mesh, netted with a square mesh instead of -diamond-shape or diagonal. At each end of it are attached<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_29">[29]</a></span> -jointed poles which fit in each other like joints of a fishing-rod; -these are when put together six feet six inches in -length, but the net itself is broader to allow of a certain -amount of bagging.</p> - -<p>If this were not so the birds would be liable to run along -underneath the net and escape, whereas as now arranged -they entangle themselves in the soft silk meshes. Of course -silk is not necessary, but it is best if expense is no object. A -twine net will do very well for boys, and if they have mastered -the instructions for netting they -need have no difficulty in making -their own.</p> - -<p>The engraving, if carefully looked -into, explains itself, but I will, to further -elucidate the matter, tell you how -it is laid. First, bear in mind the -net in the cut is now placed on the -ground as it should be laid; this is -how to do it. Place both nets spread -out as shown, roughly on the ground -(you can measure their proper relative -distances afterward), and drive in -the farthest peg (<i lang="la" xml:lang="la">i. e.</i>, farthest from -bird-catcher), to which is attached -both the “top” and “bottom” line -(see cut). Let this peg be firmly -driven in, for on it the chief strain -falls. Now plant the peg at the end -of the jointed pole farthest from the -bird-catcher (<span class="smcap">E</span>). The pole is linked -to this peg either by means of two -staples or loops of rope attached to -both in such a way as to act as a -hinge. Now stretch the bottom between -the two jointed poles as shown, -driving the peg in firmly as before. -Finally plant the peg <em>nearest</em> <span class="smcap">E</span>, having -stretched the bottom line tightly -throughout.</p> - -<p>Measure now a space of width sufficient -to allow the two nets when -drawn over toward each other to fall, -covering their <em>top</em> edges about six inches with each other. -Thus, as in the cut, if the net be six feet six inches broad -you must allow twelve feet six inches between them. Having -done this, fix the other net in a manner precisely similar -to its fellow. C on the engraving, as can be seen, is the -pull-line, and it is joined as is shown to a line stretching<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_30">[30]</a></span> -at right angles between the four top line ends of the jointed -poles. The effect of pulling this is to bring the nets up and -over, both falling in the twelve feet six inches space, and -thus inclosing anything within that space. The birds are -enticed by the cage-birds in the first instance (see cut), and -finally by the play-birds perched on the play-stick (<span class="smcap">B</span>).</p> - -<div id="Fig_a2" class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> -<img src="images/i029.jpg" width="600" height="179" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p class="center">Fig. 2.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The play-bird is a bird of the same kind as those sought to -be captured, which is attached by means of miniature harness -(to be presently shown) to the play-stick, and it being -comparatively free it proves very attractive (see <a href="#Fig_a2">Fig. 2</a>). C -is the bird. This stick is of three parts: A, a piece of -wood made like <a href="#Fig_a3">Fig. 3</a>; and <span class="smcap">B</span>, a piece of brass tubing beaten -flat at one -end and placed -on the -stick, which -may be a hazel -or ash -twig. A hole -is punctured -through this tube, and a peg passed through it holds it in -its place, as well as serving as an axle on which its movements -work as prompted by the play-line, which passes also -through <span class="smcap">A</span>, as shown in <a href="#Fig_a2">Fig. 2</a>.</p> - -<div id="Fig_a3" class="figleft" style="width: 400px;"> -<img src="images/i030.jpg" width="400" height="99" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p class="center">Fig. 3.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>I have said the bird is harnessed and tethered to the stick -at <span class="smcap">C</span> (<a href="#Fig_a2">Fig. 2</a>). This harnessing is perfectly painless to the -little fellow, and consists of a sort of double loop affixed to a -<a id="Ref_6">swivel</a> (<a href="#Fig_a6">Fig. 6</a>). The head of the bird is passed through and -the loops are drawn down over and round its wings close to -the body. Of course they are drawn and tied just tight -enough to fit the body, and the swivel is attached; then a -piece of fine twine of about a foot and a half in length connects -the play-bird with its stick. The method of using this -bird is as follows: Directly the call-birds—which are cock -birds in full song—have attracted others of their species, the -bird-catcher gently pulls the play line, raising and lowering -the stick. This prompts the play-bird to use its wings in a -perfectly natural manner, and the consequence is, the wild -birds becoming bolder at seeing one of their brethren so apparently -unrestrained, venture in the forbidden space, and -with no fear visible at once proceed to exchange civilities. -As soon as the bird-catcher observes the bird well in the -reach of the nets, he pulls swiftly and strongly at <span class="smcap">C</span> (<a href="#Fig_a1">Fig. 1</a>), -and the nets close over both the play or decoy bird and those -he has innocently lured to their captivity. Now this in no -case injures them, and running up, the bird-catcher places -them in a large airy cage opening inwards, and commonly -covers them over with a cloth, lest in the first moments of<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_31">[31]</a></span> -restraint they injure themselves against the bars. Two or -more play-birds should be used, so that not one may be over-tired.</p> - -<div id="Fig_a6" class="figright" style="width: 300px;"> -<img src="images/i031.jpg" width="300" height="364" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p class="center">Fig. 6.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>Thus you have the whole apparatus of “clap”-netting and -its use explained. Now for a few hints as to where to set a -net. First, do not forget to mark the habits of the birds -yourself, and so learn where to find them at all seasons. -Larks and linnets are easily -found in open plains and by -water brooks, goldfinches -come in autumn to feed off -the thistledown, starling -swarm as winter comes on -and are met with in all sorts -of pastures where some -growth of underwood or -deciduous trees are found. -For shy birds let your full -line be quite forty yards -long; and a good plan for -blackbirds, starlings, and -other wary birds is to lay -your nets and get behind a -hedge or other hiding-place. -A little ingenuity in this way -will often procure a goodly -stroke of success. The other -morning after a frost I caught fourteen blackbirds close to a -long laurel hedge, hiding myself in a large rhododendron.</p> - -<p>Sometimes hawks, and even birds of a non-preying but -quite different species to your call-bird, are caught in the -clap-net. The former usually pounces down upon or near -the poor little play-bird, and thus the biter is bitten. “Serve -him right,” say you; so say I. The other birds are probably -only curious to know what it is all about.</p> - -<p>This kind of net is the best for amateurs, and I shall -therefore not describe that sort which is used by professionals -for lark and other birds at night time, often, I am sorry -to say, when it is illegal, and when partridges and pheasants -can be taken. Kingfishers may be caught by stretching a -fine net loosely across an archway of a stream on which they -are known to be, and sparrows may be taken in any numbers -from old thatches, barn, rick, etc., at night in the following -manner:</p> - -<p>Stretch your net on two cane poles and let two people -carry it upright; another holds a lantern at about the middle -of this net on the outer side from the barn to be “netted.” -Let another, taking a long pole, buffet about the interior<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_32">[32]</a></span> -under the eaves and in the nooks and corners; the -birds will then fly out and make for the light, only to be entangled -in the net. Beating the hedgerows at night will -produce the same effect; and, let me tell you, sparrow pudding -is not to be despised.</p> - -<p>Water-birds, such as dabchicks, moorhens, and even ducks, -may be taken by means of nets stretched across ditches and -“drawns” which they frequent. I have especially been successful -with those little nuisances of the fish culturist, the -dabchick, or dapper as they are called in some places, by -means of a common dragnet, which I use for trout catching -in spawning time, but as my readers have already the facilities -I have in this direction, I need not say more about that -style of netting.</p> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<div class="chapter"></div><!--Page break for ePub--> -<h2><a id="VIII_BIRD-CATCHING_WITH_TRAPS">VIII.<br /><span class="chapterfont">BIRD-CATCHING WITH TRAPS.</span></a></h2> - - -<p>The word “trap” in the title of this book is intended to -be made use of in a somewhat wide and also narrow sense. -Under it I shall include what would otherwise be called a -snare—namely, the “springe,” or “springle.” On the other -hand I shall make use of it in what may seem a rather restricted -sense, inasmuch as that I do not intend to tell you -how to catch birds by means of the “gin,” or steel trap. -Mind you, there are some birds—such as the magpie and -crow—which it is almost impossible to catch in any other -manner. For them the deadly, pain-dealing “gin” is justifiable. -For the use of boys, I do not, however, recommend -it in bird-catching; it always maims if it does not kill outright, -and thus, should any of you desire to stuff the bird you -have captured, its injured plight is much against its appearance.</p> - -<p>The springe, as many of you know, is a horse-hair loop -fixed to some immovable object, such as the branch of a tree, -etc. Mr. Montagu Brown, in his “Practical Taxidermy,” -thus describes the making of it. “Here,” he says, “I have -a black horsehair about two feet long; I double it, holding -it between the right hand finger and thumb, leaving a little -loose loop about half an inch long; from this point I proceed -by an overhand motion of the thumb to twist it up. On -reaching the bottom I make a small knot to prevent it -unrolling, then pushing the knotted end through the eye of -the loop, I thus form a loose noose. I then attach a piece of -wire to the free end by a twisted loop (<a href="#Fig_a7">Fig. 7</a>). With about -half a dozen of these coiled in an oval tin box I am ready -to snare any small bird whose haunt I may discover.”</p> - -<div id="Fig_a7" class="figright" style="width: 200px;"> -<img src="images/i033a.jpg" width="200" height="186" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p class="center">Fig. 7.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>This springe is varied in a variety of ways, but it is remarkably<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_33">[33]</a></span> -deadly for nearly all birds. The piece of wire is -of course twisted round a branch or other fixed point, and -the noose, for such it is, is so arranged that the bird pecks -through it, and so gets “haltered.” I always make my -springes of silkworm gut, used in fishing, as being stronger -and practically invisible.</p> - -<p>Ducks, moorhens, and dabchicks can be caught with nooses -or springes made of a sufficient number -of hairs or strands of gut, and suspended -to a line fixed across the ditches and -small streams they are known to frequent. -A springe mounted as shown in -<a href="#Fig_a8">Fig. 8</a> (<span class="smcap">A</span> in <a href="#Fig_a9">9</a>) can also be fixed in the -ground, with the noose hanging over the -probable spot of emergence from the -water of either of these birds. Their -exact “run” can easily be determined -by the freshness of the excrement. Snipes are to be taken -by simply attaching the springe to a bullet and burying this -in the soft oose or mud where snipe are known to feed or -run. Plovers can be taken in a similar way.</p> - -<div id="Fig_a8" class="figleft" style="width: 275px;"> -<img src="images/i033b.jpg" width="275" height="265" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p class="center">Fig. 8.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>On the Continent, according to -Mr. Box, the following is the -method of using the springe for -the capture of thrushes and such -birds. The springes being made, -the snarer cuts as many twigs -about eighteen inches in length as -he intends hanging springes. -There are two methods of hanging -them—in one the twig is bent in -the form of figure 6, the tail end -running through a slit cut in the -upper part of the twig. The other -way is to sharpen a twig at both ends, and insert the -points into a stem of underwood, thus forming a bow, of -which the stem forms the string below the springe, and hanging -from the lower part of the bow is placed a small branch -with three or four berries of the mountain-ash; this is fixed -to the bow by inserting the stalk into a slit in the wood.</p> - -<p>The bird-catcher is provided with a basket, one compartment -of which holds his twigs, bent or straight, another his -berries; his springes being already attached to the twigs, -he very rapidly drives his knife into a lateral branch, and -fixes them, taking care that the springe hangs neatly in the -middle of the bow, and that the lower part of the springe is -about three fingers’ breadth from the bottom. By this arrangement -the bird, alighting on the lower side of the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_34">[34]</a></span> -bow, and bending his neck to reach the berries below, -places his head in the noose, finding himself obstructed in -his movements, attempts to fly away, but the treacherous -noose tightens around his neck, and he is found by the -sportsman -hanging by the -neck, a victim of -misplaced confidence.</p> - -<div id="Fig_a9" class="figleft" style="width: 400px;"> -<img src="images/i034a.jpg" width="400" height="187" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p class="center">Fig. 9.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>Another adaptation -of the -springe is shown -at <a href="#Fig_a9">Fig. 9</a>. It -consists of a -wand of hazel, -willow, or any other suitable wood, which is set in the -ground firmly. A short piece of string, hair, or gut connects -it with a cross piece of wood, and to this string also -several (two or more) horse-hair or gut springes are attached, -set in precisely the same manner as shown in <a href="#Fig_a8">Fig. 8</a>. -<span class="smcap">A</span> in <a href="#Fig_a9">Fig. 9</a> is a piece of wood which is so cut as to present -an arm at right angles to the perpendicular. This piece -of wood is driven in the ground and the wand bent over; the -cross-piece is now placed to the edge of the arm of <span class="smcap">A</span>, and -there retained as “ticklishly” as possible.</p> - -<p>On this fine setting everything depends. Now get some -short grass and cover up the cross-piece at <span class="smcap">A</span>, so that it cannot -be seen, then arrange your hair springes on the surface, -and strew some crumbs or grains of rice, wheat, etc. The -bird will settle on the cross-piece or on <span class="smcap">A</span>, and peck at the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_35">[35]</a></span> -crumbs, etc., and then will be caught by the legs or head. I -have had excellent results with this.</p> - -<p>Another springle shown at <a href="#Fig_a10">Fig. 10</a> is a remarkably good -one for moorhens, or, in fact, any bird having a run, for the -description of which quote -“Practical Trapping,” by Moorman -(though, indeed, I believe -he got his description from -Doucie’s “Rural Sports”). -“The wand, or spring-stick,” he -says, “cross-piece and nooses -as before, but instead of the -simple crutch use a complete -bow with both ends stuck in -the ground. At some distance -from this drive in a straight -piece of stick; next procure a -piece of stick with a complete -fork or crutch at one end. To -set it draw down the spring-stick -and pull the cross-piece -under the bow by the top side -farthest from the spring-stick. -Now hold it firmly with one -hand while you place the forked -stick with its crutch pressing -against the opposite upright -stick and bring its free end -against the lower end of the -cross-piece, and adjust as firmly -as you can. Finally arrange -the nooses in such a manner -that if one of them or the -crutched stick is touched the -latter falls, and releasing the -cross-piece the spring-stick flies -up and the bird with it.” (<span class="smcap">A</span>) -indicates the cross-piece, (<span class="smcap">B</span>) -the forked stick, (<span class="smcap">C</span>) the adjustment. -(<a href="#Fig_a10">Fig. 10</a>).</p> - -<div id="Fig_a10" class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> -<img src="images/i034b.jpg" width="600" height="349" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p class="center">Fig. 10.</p></div> -</div> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<div class="chapter"></div><!--Page break for ePub--> -<h2><a id="IX_BIRD-CATCHING_WITH_TRAPS_ETC">IX.<br /><span class="chapterfont">BIRD-CATCHING WITH TRAPS, ETC.</span></a></h2> - - -<p>Yet another of the springle traps which I have seen used -with very great success for the capture of flesh-eating birds -is shown in <a href="#Fig_a11">Fig. 11</a>. A and <span class="smcap">B</span> are two sapling oak or ash-trees, -growing near each other. Two holes are bored in <span class="smcap">A</span> -with a large gimlet; at <span class="smcap">C</span>, in <span class="smcap">B</span>, a wire loop is attached, and<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_36">[36]</a></span> -the loop <span class="smcap">E</span> is passed through the upper perforation, as -shown. At <span class="smcap">D</span> a piece of cord with a round knot in it is -passed through after <span class="smcap">B</span> is bent toward <span class="smcap">A</span>. F is a piece of -wood, the point of which is shaped like a blunt cone, and -this is sustained on the knot in the position shown by the -spring of <span class="smcap">B</span>, being similar, in fact, to the tongue of a wooden -mole-trap, shown in a previous number. On this piece of -wood is tied a fresh lump of meat, or a pigeon’s egg may be -blown and stuck on. Indeed, any bait may be used, providing -it is not too heavy. The bird, of course, pecks strongly -at it through the loop <span class="smcap">E</span>, and is instantly caught, or if it -attempts to alight, which is often the case, the noose catches -it alive by the legs. My drawing is a rough one, but sufficiently -explains what is meant.</p> - -<div id="Fig_a11" class="figleft" style="width: 245px;"> -<img src="images/i035.jpg" width="245" height="650" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p class="center">Fig. 11.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>I have thus given a brief sketch of what boys can do in -bird-catching with no more expense than a few cents—if we -except the net, and that need not cost much if one is disposed -to make it. There are many other traps which are -variously successful. There is, for example, the trap-cage, -which contains on one side a decoy bird, and a very useful -one it is, and easily procured from a bird-fancier. Then -there is the old sieve and string and brick trap, about which -no boy needs to be told. I have taken twenty and thirty -wild fowl in a night by baiting with pieces of sheep’s lights -or lungs a large eel-hook. Then again for kingfishers there -is a round spring-trap, which catches them by the legs, and -is cruel therefore. Herons may be taken on a baited hook—the -bait-fish, of course. When all is said and done, however, -for general bird-catching, where sport and not torture -is the means here set forth are decidedly the most satisfactory.</p> - -<p>First and foremost, however, if you would be successful, -take this practical counsel to yourself. Study the natures -and habits of the birds; the droppings and footprints will -always indicate a favorite resort. Why, I took a dozen birds -the other day with half a dozen of <a href="#Fig_a9">Figure 9</a> traps in less than -four hours by simply setting and resetting in the right -places, and then retiring out of sight.</p> - -<p>And not merely out of sight, let me tell the tyro, but out -of the range of the sense of smell. Never get to windward of -any birds if you are intent on catching them. It is a curious -fact amongst the lower animals, especially those brought -under domestication, that they perceive and appreciate at its -value against themselves the presence of man by smell as -well as sight. Creatures of prey, from the hatred with which -they are held, seem to possess this faculty in the highest -degree. Were it not so, indeed, the struggle for existence -with them would soon end, and many at least of the species<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_37">[37]</a></span>—whether -fish, flesh or fowl—would become extinct as the -dodo.</p> - -<p>The bird-lime itself is the next consideration under this -heading. I do not advise any boy to make it himself, but -if he nevertheless chooses to do so, here is a recipe which will -produce a very good “lime.” Half a pint of Linseed-oil -should be put into an iron pot and carefully boiled over the -fire for four hours, or, in fact, till it thickens sufficiently, -stirring it repeatedly the while with a stick. The oil is -smooth when it boils. In order to ascertain when it is done -take out the stick and immerse it in water, after which see -if it sticks to the fingers. If it does, the oil is ready to be -poured into cold water, and thereafter placed in little flat -tin boxes—the most convenient receptacles, as they fit in -the waistcoat pocket, and can be used as required.</p> - -<p>Birdlime is also made from holly bark, but according to -the directions given in the “Encyclopædia Britannica” the -process is much too troublesome for boys, and as one can -buy birdlime enough to stick a flock of rooks together for a -few pence from a professional bird-catcher, life may be considered -too short for that process at this time. As I am some -distance from a town, much less a professional bird-catcher, -I make mine as above, and find it little if any inferior to that -I have been in the habit of buying.</p> - -<p>During winter time, when frost and snow cover the earth, -birdlime is very useful, for at that time the “clap” net is of -very little use. A good plan then is to sweep a bare place -anywhere near a plantation or wooded garden, or even in the -farm-yards, and having anointed a few dozen wheat ears with -the straw attached—or rather, having anointed the straw for -about a foot nearest the ear—to spread them about in the -patch. The birds will attempt to take the ears away, and -will so get limed and drop to the ground. You must very -quickly pick them up or you will lose some, as their struggles -not infrequently release them, at least partially, and they -flutter out of reach.</p> - -<p>Sometimes it will be found that a few handfuls of oats, -barley or wheat thrown down where the limed straws are -will be of service when they do not seem to care for the wheat -ears themselves. There is the probability of the little fellows -coming in contact with the ears, and so getting limed. -These methods are chiefly applicable, as I have said, to cold -weather.</p> - -<p>A different mode of procedure may be practiced when the -weather is very hot. Cut, say, a hundred twigs of some -smooth, thin wood, such as withy, and after liming, stick -them down by the side of any rivulet of water near woody -growths, and of course not near a large tract of water such<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_38">[38]</a></span> -as a lake or river. Cover over the stream with brush or fern, -so that the birds can come only by where your limed twigs -are placed. I have had remarkable sport in this way when -the birds have been coming to drink during the forenoon -and afternoon.</p> - -<p>I tried an experiment for rooks with bird-lime some little -time ago. We all know that in winter, during a thaw, rooks -will frequent pastures in great numbers, especially if cattle -be present. About fifty yards to the west of where I am now -sitting is a long waterside pasture, and thousands of rooks -could be seen digging right lustily. Rooks are too strong -and wily to be limed in the usual way with bristles or twigs, -so I made some paper cones—funnel-shaped, you know, like -the grocers use for packing sugar—and anointed the inside -with bird-lime, sticking also a few grains of wheat round the -inner side. The result was ridiculous in the extreme. After -scattering a few grains of corn about and placing about a -dozen of these limed brown-paper funnels in a likely manner, -I retired to a distance, and with my field-glass watched. A -flock soon found out the scattered grain, and one after the -other the cones were inspected, but for some time no one -ventured to do more. Presently, however, after the loose -grain was apparently all eaten, one of the wily birds had the -temerity to poke his head inside a cone. The result was -much to his evident surprise, for the cone stuck tight, and -there he was tumbling and attempting to fly with a foolscap -on which blindfolded him, and which stuck tight enough to -allow me time to go up and release the poor fellow. I did -not kill him, for old rook pie is by no means palatable. I -tried this plan for a heron which continually frequented a -little pond wherein my last year’s trout are kept, but did not -succeed in capturing him, though he took both the cone and -fish used for a bait away somehow. Anyhow it has most -thoroughly frightened my gentleman, for I have not seen -him since.</p> - -<p>One fine morning some time since I had a delightful ramble -with a quaint old character living hereabouts who gets -his living by mole and bird catching. Old “Twiddle” he is -familiarly called. One faculty he has, and that is a natural -love for nature’s works and a gift of observation which has, -perhaps almost unknown to himself, forced him into being a -natural naturalist, if I may so use the expression. He can -tell any bird on the wing by its flight, he knows all the -fancies—some of them old, imagined fancies—of bees, each -fly as it flits from the water’s edge has a name, though far -from being that given it by science. No matter for that; a -rose by any other name would smell as sweet and old Twiddle -can tell something of its life-history. Well, Twiddle and<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_39">[39]</a></span> -I started on our ramble, and this was how he was equipped. -A cage containing a beautiful little cock gold-finch duly and -comfortably furnished with food and water, and protected -from the sharp though clear air of the bright November day -by means of an old silk handkerchief. Some dozen or two -of prepared bristles, a small box of birdlime, and a “dummy” -or stuffed gold-finch set up on a branch of wood with -one end sharpened so that the latter could be stuck in the -ground and then the bird retained in any position deemed -desirable. The bristles were of the best shoemaker’s kind, -and, were arranged in bunches of three on a stout carpet-needle.</p> - -<p>By the by I have improved on these by substituting a fish-hook -straightened (see <a id="Ref_6a">Fig. 6</a>). To do this take an ordinary -eel-hook and make it red-hot in the gas or candle flame, -holding it the while by means of a pair of pliers. It can be -readily straightened after this, whether hot or cold, as the -heating softens the wire. The utility of the barb lies in the -fact that the bird cannot by any chance fly away with the -bristle or lose it for you in its struggles, because of the -barb’s holding power when thrust into the branch of a tree, -etc.</p> - -<p>But to return. Chatting about this and that we journeyed -along till after old Twiddle had craned his neck over a ledge -to regard the other side of a field he announced our walk for -the present ended. On creeping through a hole in the hedge -this field turned out to be a piece of evidently waste water -meadow, so-called because the crops are, as it were, manured -with water from the neighboring river, and a perfect little -forest of thistles with their downy heads swaying in the -breeze indicated the probable presence of the goldfinch. -Some thorn-trees grew in a row down the center of the field, -and hither and thither the sparrows flitted amongst their -branches busily chattering the news of sparrowdom. But I -saw no finches. “Twiddle,” said I, “where are the goldfinches?” -“Ye’ll see where they be, sir, presently,” he answered, -setting down the caged bird near the largest of the -thorns. “Now, Billy,” he added, speaking to the bird, “crow -away,” and with that he removed the handkerchief. Billy -needed no second bidding, and his little throat quivered and -trembled with the glad song which came thrilling forth.</p> - -<p>Twiddle now placed the dummy bird just beneath a branch -of the thorn close to the cage and so as to be easily seen, -and all around it and round the cage the bristles carefully -limed were stuck. All was now ready. We retired behind -the hedge where we could see and not be seen.</p> - -<p>Presently the singing was answered and we saw a gold-finch -hopping about amongst the branches of the thorn.<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_40">[40]</a></span> -Suddenly it caught sight of the dummy bird and with a -pleased swiftness flew towards it. In another second it had -touched a limed bristle and was rolling over and over hopelessly -liming its wings with every fresh bristle it touched.</p> - -<p>Very carefully the little chap was dusted with a little fine -earth to mitigate the stickiness and placed in another cage -which the bird-catcher always carries for the wild birds. It -is flat and long and well supplied with food and water; in -the upper part of it is a hole sufficiently large to admit the -hand, and to the two edges of this hole is tacked the leg of -an old stocking, which falls inwards. Then the bird can -easily be placed inside, but cannot escape, because the folds -of the stocking fold together.</p> - -<p>We caught five there and, as the market value of the birds -was about twenty-five cents, Twiddle, it must be owned, had -a very profitable morning’s work. Let me express a hope -that my readers may be so successful.</p> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<div class="chapter"></div><!--Page break for ePub--> -<h2><a id="The_Art_of_Stretching_and_Curing_Skins">The Art of Stretching and Curing Skins.</a></h2> - - -<p>The market value of skins are greatly affected by the care -used in skinning and curing. We take the following from -The Trapper’s Guide, the best known authority on these -matters:</p> - -<p>In drying skins it is important that they should be stretched -tight like a strained drum head. This can be done after -a fashion by simply nailing them flat on a wide board or a -barn door. But this method, besides being impracticable on -a large scale in the woods (where most skins have to be -cured) is objectionable, because it exposes only one side of -the pelt to the air. The stretchers that are generally approved -and used by good trappers, are of three kinds, adapted -to the skins of different classes of animals, and shall call -them the board-stretcher, the bow-stretcher, and the hoop-stretcher, -and will describe them, indicating the different -animals to which each is adapted.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><span class="smcap">The Board-Stretcher.</span>—This contrivance is made in the -following manner: Prepare a board of bass-wood or other -light material, two feet three inches long, three inches and a -half wide at one end, and two inches and an eighth at the -other, and three-eighths of an inch thick. Chamfer it from the -center to the sides almost to an edge. Round and chamfer the -small end about an inch up on the sides. Split this board -through the center with a knife or saw. Finally, prepare a -wedge of the same length and thickness, one inch wide at -the large end, and tapering to three-eighths of an inch at the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_41">[41]</a></span> -small end, to be driven between the halves of the board. -This is a stretcher suitable for a mink or a marten. Two -larger sizes, with similar proportions, are required for the -larger animals. The largest size, suitable for the full grown -otter or wolf, should be five feet and a half long, seven -inches wide at the large end when fully spread by the wedge, -and six inches at the small end. An intermediate size is required -for the fisher, raccoon, fox, and some other animals, -the proportions of which can be easily figured out.</p> - -<p>These stretchers require that the skin of the animal should -not be ripped through the belly, but should be stripped off -whole. This is done in the following manner: Commence -with the knife at the hind feet, and slit down to the vent. -Cut around the vent, and strip the skin from the bone of the -tail with the help of the thumb nail or a split slick. Make no -other slits in the skin, except in the case of the otter, whose -tail requires to be split, spread, and tacked on to the board. -Peel the skin from the body by drawing it over itself, leaving -the fur side inward.</p> - -<p>In this condition the skin should be drawn on to the split -board, (with the back on one side and the belly on the other) -to its utmost length, and fastened with tacks or by notches -cut in the edge of the board, and then the wedge should be -driven between the two halves. Finally, make all fast by a -tack at the root of the tail, and another on the opposite side. -The skin is then stretched to its utmost capacity, as a boot-leg -is stretched by the shoe-maker’s “tree,” and it may be -hung away in the proper place, by a hole in one end of the -stretcher, and left to dry.</p> - -<p>A modification of this kind of stretcher, often used in curing -the skins of the muskrat and other small animals, is a -simple board, without split or wedge, three-sixteenths of an -inch thick, twenty inches long, six inches wide at the large -end, and tapering to five and a half inches at six inches from -the small end, chamfered and rounded as in the other cases. -The animal should be skinned as before directed, and the -skin drawn tightly on to the board and fastened with about -four tacks. Sets of these boards, sufficient for a muskrat -campaign, can easily be made and transported. They are -very light and take up but little room in packing, thirty-two -of them making but six inches in thickness.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><span class="smcap">The Bow Stretcher.</span>—The most common way of treating -the muskrat is to cut off its feet with a hatchet, and rip with -a knife from between the two teeth in the lower jaw, down -the belly, about two inches below where the fore-legs come -out. Then the skin is started by cutting around the lips, -eyes, and ears, and is stripped over the body with the fur -side inward. Finally a stick of birch, water-beech, ironwood,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_42">[42]</a></span> -hickory, or elm, an inch in diameter at the butt, and -three feet and a half long, is bent into the shape of an oxbow -and shoved into the skin, which is drawn tight, and -fastened by splitting down a sliver in the bow and drawing -the skin of the lip into it.</p> - -<p>This method is too common to be easily abolished, and is -tolerable when circumstances make it necessary; but the -former method of stretching by a tapering board, in the case -of muskrats as well as other small animals, is much the -best. Skins treated in that way keep their proper shape, and -pack better than those stretched on bows, and in the long -run boards are more economical than bows, as a set of them -can be used many times, and will last several years, whereas -bows are seldom used more than once, being generally broken -in taking out.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><span class="smcap">The Hoop Stretcher.</span>—The skins of large animals, such -as the beaver and the bear, are best dried by spreading -them, at full size, in a hoop. For this purpose, a stick of -hickory or other flexible wood should be cut, long enough to -entirely surround the skin when bent. (If a single stick long -enough is not at hand, two smaller ones can be spliced together.) -The ends should be brought around, lapped, and -tied with a string or a withe of bark. The skin should be -taken from the animal by ripping from the lower front teeth -to the vent, and peeling around the lips, eyes, and ears, but -without ripping up the legs. It should then be placed inside -the hoop and fastened at opposite sides, with twine or -bark, till all loose parts are taken up, and the whole -stretched so that it is nearly round and as tight as a drum-head. -When it is dry it may be taken from the hoop, and is -ready for packing and transportation.</p> - -<p>This is the proper method of treating the skin of the deer. -Some prefer it for the wolf and raccoon. In many cases the -trapper may take his choice between the hoop and the board -method. One or the other methods will be found satisfactory -for curing all kinds of skins.</p> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<div class="chapter"></div><!--Page break for ePub--> -<h2><a id="Dressing_and_Tanning_Skins_and_Furs">Dressing and Tanning Skins and Furs.</a></h2> - - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><span class="smcap">Dressing Skins with Fur Wool on.</span>—The cheapest and -readiest as well as the best method of dressing skins for use -with the hair or wool on, is to first scrape off all the fat with -a knife rather blunt on the edge, so as not to cut holes into -the hide, upon a round smooth log. The log for convenience -sake should have a couple of legs in one end, like a tressle; -the other end should rest upon the ground.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_43">[43]</a></span></p> - -<p>After the fat is well cleaned off, take the brains of the animal, -or the brains of any other recently killed, and work them -thoroughly into the hide. This renders the hide pliable. Then -to preserve from the ravages of insects scatter on it some -powdered alum and a little saltpeter. If the hair side has become -greasy, a little weak lye will take it out. Sheep-skins -may be dressed in the same way, though the wool should be -cleaned with soapsuds before using the brains. Another way, -but more expensive, is to use a paste made of the yolk of eggs -and whiting instead of brains, working it in the same way, -letting it dry and brushing off the whiting. Then add the -powdered alum as before. Deer-skins and even small calf-skins -are often tawed as the process is called with the hair -on for garments. If it is desired to give the deer-skin a yellow -color, yellow ocher or chrome yellow may be used in combination -with the brains or yolks of eggs and afterwards -brushed off.</p> - -<p>If it is simply desired to preserve skins until they are sold, -it is only necessary to dry them thoroughly. If the weather -should be damp and warm, salt the flesh side slightly with -fine salt.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><span class="smcap">Without the Wool or Hair.</span>—Sheep-skin, deer-skin, dog-skin, -calf-skin, &c., for gloves, &c., are also tawed, but the -hair must be taken off. The skins are first soaked in warm -water, scraped on the flesh side to get off fat, and hung in a -warm room until they begin to give a slight smell of hartshorn. -The wool or fur then comes off rapidly. The hair side -should now be thoroughly scraped against the hair. The skin -is next soaked two or three weeks in weak lime water, -changing the water two or three times. Then they are brought -out again, scraped smooth and trimmed. Then rinsed in clean -water, then soaked in wheat bran and water for two or three -weeks. After this they are well stirred around in pickle of -alum, salt and water. Then they are thrown again into the -bran and water for two or three days. Then stretched and -dried somewhat in a warm room. After this they are soaked -in warm water and then worked or trodden on in a trough or -pail filled with yolk of eggs, salt, alum, flour and water, -beaten to a froth. They are finally stretched and dried in an -airy room, and last of all smoothed with a warm smoothing -iron. This makes the beautiful leather we see in gloves, -military trimmings, &c. The proportions for the egg paste -are as follows: <span class="nowrap">3 <span class="fnum">1</span>/<span class="fden">2</span></span> pounds salt, 8 pounds alum, 21 pounds -wheat flour and yolks of nine dozen eggs. Make a paste -with water, dissolving first the alum and salt. A little of -this paste is used as wanted with a great deal of water.</p> - -<p>Chamois skin and deer skins not wanted for gloves are -similarly treated up to the point of treating with egg paste.<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_44">[44]</a></span> -Instead of using this process, they are oiled on the hair side -with very clean animal oil, rolled into balls and thrown into -the trough of a fulling mill, well beaten two or three hours, -aired, re-oiled, beaten again and the process repeated a third -time. They are then put into a warm room until they begin -to give out a decided smell, then scoured in weak lye to take -out superfluous grease. Here the intention is merely to get -a thick felt-like skin of good color, a nicely grained surface -is not required as in gloves. The skins are finally rinsed, -wrung out, stretched and dried, and when nearly dry, slightly -rub with a smooth, hard, round stick.</p> - -<p>These are the fine processes. A dried skin oiled so as to -become smooth and pliable will retain the hair or wool a considerable -time.</p> - -<p>Or it may be made more durable where the color of the -flesh side is no object by scraping, washing in soapsuds and -then putting directly into the tan pit. For ordinary purposes -rabbit, squirrel and other small skins can be efficiently -preserved with the hair by the application of powdered alum -and fine salt, put on them when fresh, or if not fresh by -dampening them first. Squirrel skins when wanted without -the hair will tan very well in wheat bran tea, the fat and -hair having been previously removed by soaking in lime-water -and scraping. Old tea leaves afford tannin enough -for small skins, but they give a color not nearly so pleasant -as bran. Almost any of the barks afford tannin enough for -small skins—willow, pine, poplar, hemlock of course, sumach, -etc.</p> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<div class="chapter"></div><!--Page break for ePub--> -<h2><a id="Coloring_or_Dyeing_Skins_and_Furs">Coloring or Dyeing Skins and Furs.</a></h2> - - -<p>Furs are dyed by dealers, to suit some fashion, to conceal -defects or to pass off inferior furs for better ones.</p> - -<p>The best way is to brush the dye over the fur with a good -sponge, brushing with the hair. As a matter of course, you -can only dye them of a darker color than they are, and retain -the handsome lustrous look peculiar to fur. They may -be bleached, but the process leaves the fur looking like -coarse flax or even hemp.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><span class="smcap">Blue.</span>—Sulphate of indigo, (soluble indigo, sold by all -druggists,) is the readiest and best to get a blue with. Furs -are never dyed blue for sale, for that would be spoiling a -white fur, but sheep-skins are. The skin should be dipped -several times in a bath of hot alum water, allowed to drain, -and then dipped into a solution of sulphate of indigo and -water, with a few drops of sulphuric acid added, this gives a -pale blue. Aniline blue is very fine, and dyeing with it is<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_45">[45]</a></span> -very simple. A solution of the color in water is made, a -hot solution, and the skin put in all at once, (if a part of the -skin is put in first that part will be darkest, so quick is the -absorption of these colors). Fancy sheep-skin mats are -colored blue, red, green, and yellow, and have a ready sale -when they are new.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><span class="smcap">Black.</span>—The best black is obtained by first dyeing the -skin a blue. Then boil one-quarter pound gall nuts, powdered, -and one and one-quarter ounces of logwood, in three -gallons of water. If the flesh side is to be blue, while the -fur or wool is another, this decoction must be sponged on.</p> - -<p>Get the wool or hair thoroughly impregnated with this -and then add one-quarter pound copperas to the dye and go -over the fur or wool many times with the sponge. The -process above given will answer without previous blueing, -but the black is not so brilliant. Another “home-made” -dye which will answer for dyeing clothes a black, as well as -sheep-skins, is this: Just make a bath of eight ounces of bichromate -of potash, six ounces alum, four ounces fustic; -boil in water enough to cover five pounds of yarn, cloth or -a single sheep-skin. Make another bath of four pounds of -logwood, four ounces each bar wood and fustic, or eight ounces -fustic; same amount of boiling water as last. Stir the goods -well around in the first bath, keeping the water hot for an -hour; then work it in the second bath the same length of -time. Take them and wring them; then, adding one-quarter -pound of copperas to the last bath, put the goods in again -and give them a good stirring. This is a good black dye -for wool goods or furs, but not for silks or cottons.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><span class="smcap">Red.</span>—Furs of course are never dyed red, at least in this -country. Sheep-skins might be dyed with madder or cochineal, -but in the former case, the skin would of necessity -be boiled with the dye, as that is necessary in using madder. -Cochineal would be expensive and require much working, -while as brilliant reds and purples may be got from the aniline -colors, dissolved in moderately warm water, the skum -taken off, and skin dipped. These colors are the cheapest, -too, as they go very far. But always have the wool as free -from grease as possible by working in weak hot lye or hot -soapsuds.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><span class="smcap">Yellow.</span>—Can be got on sheep-skins with black oak bark, -(quercitron bark) old fustic, annotta, and Persian (also called -French) berries. The skin should be previously dipped -into a hot bath of alum, cream of tartar or spirit of tin, about -two ounces to the gallon. About one-half pound of annotta, -or a pound of the other articles, are enough for a single skin. -If you wish to use fustic, be particular to ask for old fustic, -as what is known in the trade as young fustic, is a different<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_46">[46]</a></span> -article and gives a different color. There is also now an -aniline yellow which works like the other colors.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><span class="smcap">Green.</span>—Dye first blue as explained above, then pass -through a yellow dye, until you get the shade required. An -alum bath, cream of tartar, or spirits of tin, as above, must -be used before the blue is given.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><span class="smcap">Preservation of Furs.</span>—While in use furs should be occasionally -combed. When not wanted, dry them first, then let -them cool, and mix among them bitter apples from the druggists, -in small muslin bags, sewing them in several folds of linen, -carefully turned in at the edges and kept from damp. Camphor -or pepper used in the same manner, will have a similar -effect. Well cleaned furs are much less liable to be attacked -by moths, than those affording rich repasts of dried -flesh, though no furs are absolutely safe without great watchfulness. -Wrapping well in good brown paper and keeping -in a tight paper box, are all helps to the preservation of furs. -Sunshine and fresh air kill the fur and wool moth grub. -Therefore taking out the furs occasionally and airing, sunning -and beating them is necessary.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><span class="smcap">To Tan Muskrat Skins With the Fur On.</span>—First for -soaking, to 10 gallons of cold soft water add 8 parts of wheat -bran, <span class="fnum">1</span>/<span class="fden">2</span> pint of old soap, 1 ounce of borax; by adding 2 -ounces of sulphuric acid, the soaking may be done in one-half -the time. If the hides have not been salted, add a pint -of salt. Green hides should not be soaked more than 8 -or 10 hours. Dry ones should soak till very soft.</p> - -<p>For tan liquor, to ten gallons warm soft water add <span class="fnum">1</span>/<span class="fden">2</span> -bushel bran; stir well and let stand in a warm room till it -ferments. Then add slowly <span class="nowrap">2 <span class="fnum">1</span>/<span class="fden">2</span></span> pounds sulphuric acid; stir -all the while. Muskrat hides should remain in about 4 hours. -Then take out and rub with a fleshing knife—an old chopping -knife with the edge taken off will do. Then work it -over a beam until entirely dry.</p> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<div class="chapter"></div><!--Page break for ePub--> -<h2><a id="Some_Additional_Valuable_Miscellaneous_Information">Some Additional Valuable Miscellaneous Information -Useful Alike to the Hunter, -Trapper and Angler.</a></h2> - - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><span class="smcap">Hints to Trappers.</span>—The skins of animals trapped are -always valued higher than those shot, as shot not only make -holes, but frequently plow along the skin, making furrows, -as well as shaving off the fur. To realize the utmost for -skins they must be taken care of, and also cleaned and prepared -properly. Newhouse gives these general rules derived -from experience.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_47">[47]</a></span></p> - -<p>1. Be careful to visit your traps often enough, so that the -skin will not have time to get tainted.</p> - -<p>2. As soon as possible after the animal is dead and dry, -attend to the skinning and curing.</p> - -<p>3. Scrape off all superfluous flesh and fat, and be careful -not to go so deep as to cut the fiber of the skin.</p> - -<p>4. Never dry a skin by the fire or in the sun, but in a cool, -shady place, sheltered from rain. If you use a barn door for -a stretcher (as boys sometimes do), nail the skin on the inside -of the door.</p> - -<p>5. Never use preparations of any kind in curing skins, nor -even wash them in water, but simply stretch and dry them as -they are taken from the animal.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><span class="smcap">To Dress Beaver Skins.</span>—You must rip the skin the same -as you would a sheep. Stretch it in all ways as much as possible; -then it is to be dressed with equal parts of rock salt -and alum dissolved in water, and made about as thick as -cream, by stirring in coarse flour. This should be spread on -nearly half an inch thick, and scraped off when dry, and repeated -if one time is not enough. This same process of dressing -applies likewise to otter skins.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><span class="smcap">To Trap Quail.</span>—A quail trap may be any kind of coop, -supported by a figure 4. The spindle of the figure must -either be so made as to hold grain, or, what is better, some -grains of wheat or buckwheat are strung over a strong -thread with the aid of a needle, and tied to the spindle. -Quails and prairie hens easily enter a trap when the ground -is covered with snow. At other times it is rather difficult -to catch them.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><span class="smcap">To Trap Wild Turkey.</span>—A wild turkey trap is made by -first digging a ditch; then over one end is built a rude structure -of logs, covered at the top.</p> - -<p>The structure should not be tight, but, of course, sufficiently -close not to let the birds through. Indian corn is -scattered about and in the ditch, and inside of the pen. The -turkeys follow up corn in the ditch, and emerge from it on -the inside. Once there, the silly birds never think of descending -into the ditch, but walk round and round the pen, -looking through the chinks of the logs for escape that way. -To make all sure, the ditch should end about the centre of -the pen, and a bridge of sticks, grass and earth should be -built over the ditch, just inside of the pen, and close to the -logs; otherwise, in going around the bird might step inside -the ditch, and once there, it would follow the light and thereby -reach the outside of the pen.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><span class="smcap">To Catch Muskrats Without Traps.</span>—It is a mystery to -many how muskrats, beavers, and other animals, are able to -remain so long under water, apparently without breathing,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_48">[48]</a></span> -especially in winter. The way they manage is, they take in a -good breath at starting, and then remain under water as long -as possible. Then they rise up to the ice and breathe out the -air in their lungs, which remains in a bubble against the -lower part of the ice.</p> - -<p>The water near the ice is highly charged with oxygen, -which it readily imparts to the air breathed out. After a -time, this air is taken back in the lungs, and the animal -again goes under the water, repeating this process from time -to time. In this way they can travel almost any distance, -and live almost any length of time under the ice. The hunter -takes advantage of this habit of the muskrat in the following -manner. When the marshes and ponds where the muskrat -abounds are first frozen over, and the ice is thin and clear, -on striking into their houses with his hatchet, for the purpose -of setting his trap, he frequently sees a whole family -plunge into the water and swim away under the ice. Following -one for some distance, he sees him come up to recover -his breath, in the manner above described. After the animal -has breathed against the ice, and before he has time to take -his bubble in again, the hunter strikes with his hatchet directly -over him, and drives him away from his breath. In this -case he drowns in swimming a few rods, and the hunter, cutting -a hole in the ice, takes him out.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><span class="smcap">Bleaching Wool on Tanned Pelts.</span>—Put an old pot or -other iron vessel in the bottom of a hogshead, and in the -vessel a roll of brimstone. Fasten near the top a stick or -two to place the skin on. The wool must be wet when hung -on the sticks. Heat an old iron red hot, or take live coals -to start the brimstone. When it is burning briskly, cover -the hogshead tight to keep the smoke in. If not white -enough, repeat the process.</p> - -<p>The Esquimaux mode of tanning is very simple, and the -material employed the cheapest and cost accessible of any -used in the art, viz: the urine of man and beast. The skins -are prepared in the fur, and softened and tanned in urine, -which is usually kept in tubs in the porches of their huts, -for use in dressing deer, seal and other skins. They show -great skill in the preparation of whale, seal and deer skins, -and these, on the whole, are equal to the best oil skins made -in England. It imparts to them firmness and durability, and -makes them waterproof. The boots worn by the Esquimaux -are generally made from seal or walrus hides, and resist -the encroachments of water.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><span class="smcap">Hawk and Owl Traps.</span>—To catch hawks or owls, take a -pole 20 feet long, to be set a short distance from the house -or barn or on the poultry house. Split the top so as to admit -the base of a common steel trap, which should be made fast.<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_49">[49]</a></span> -When both trap and pole are set you may be sure of game of -some kind. These birds naturally light on high objects, such -as dead branches of trees or tops of stacks, and one should -use judgment about the place where he puts the traps. An -open field near the chicken yard is probably the best.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><span class="smcap">Domestic Manufacture of Furs.</span>—The skins of raccoons, -minks, muskrats, rabbits, foxes, deer, cats, dogs, woodchucks -and skunks are all valuable. Handsome robes may be made -from the skins of the last two animals, and the writer has -seen fur coats made from the skins of woodchucks, well tanned, -dyed and trimmed, which were elegant as well as comfortable, -and no one but a connoisseur would be able to guess -their origin. Of the finer and nicer furs, beautiful collars, -muffs, cuffs, caps, gloves and trimmings may be made with -a little ingenuity and perseverance; and who would not feel -a greater satisfaction in wearing a nice article, from the fact -that it was something of their own manufacture—a product -of their own taste and genius?</p> - -<p>Very handsome floor-mats are made by tanning sheep -pelts and dyeing them some bright color, which is done with -very little trouble; the art of dyeing is now so familiar to -almost every household. Furs may be dyed as easily as -woolen goods, notwithstanding the impression that it is an -art known only to the trade. Any dye that will color woolens -will also dye furs, only care must be taken not to have -the dye too hot, or the texture of the skin will be injured.</p> - -<p>The mode of tanning usually followed by city furriers is to -rub the skins well with rancid butter, then tread them thoroughly -in a tub or vat, after which a large quantity of sawdust -is mixed with them, and the process of treading continued -until all the grease is absorbed, when they are finished -off by beating, working and rubbing with chalk and potter’s -clay, whipping and brushing. An old trapper practiced this -method with small skins, first washing with a suds of soap -and sal-soda to free them from grease, then rinsing in clear -water to cleanse them from the suds, then rubbing as dry as -possible, after which they were put in a mixture of two -ounces of salt to a quart of water, added to three quarts of -milk or bran-water containing one ounce of best sulphuric -acid, and stirred briskly for forty or fifty minutes; from this -they are taken dripping into a strong solution of sal-soda -and stirred till they will no longer foam; they are then hung -to dry, when they are very soft and pliable.</p> - -<p>A very good and simple process in use among farmers is -to sprinkle the flesh side, after scraping it well, with equal -parts of pulverized alum and salt, or washing it well with a -strong solution of the same, then folding the flesh side together -and rolling it compactly, in which state it should remain<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_50">[50]</a></span> -for eight or ten days; then it is opened, sprinkled with -bran or sawdust to absorb the moisture, and rolled up again, -and after remaining twenty-four hours, the process is completed -by a thorough rubbing and manipulation, on which the -pliability depends. Skins, when taken off, should be freed -from grease or flesh by thorough scraping, when they may be -dried, and left to await the leisure of the owner. Previous -to tanning they must be well soaked and wrung dry.</p> - -<p>It is no extravagance to assert that every farmer’s family -may furnish their own fur collars, gloves, robes, and other -articles of dress and ornament, with trifling expense, from -the resources within their own reach; but from want of more -knowledge on the subject valuable skins are wasted or disposed -of for a mere fraction of their real value, and articles -of apparel that should be made from them are bought at extravagant -prices of fur dealers.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><span class="smcap">Indian Mode of Tanning Buffalo Skins.</span>—The hard and -incessant labor that is necessary to properly “Indian tan” -a robe is not easily to realize unless one may see the work go -on day by day from the first step, which is to spread out the -pelt or undressed hide upon the ground, where it is pinned -fast by means of wooden pins driven through little cuts in -the edge of the robe into the earth. The flesh side of the -robe, being uppermost, is then worked over by two and -sometimes three squaws. The tools used are very rude, some -being simply provided with sharp stones or buffalo bones. -Others, more wealthy, have a something that much resembles -a drawing-knife or shave of the cooper. The work in -hand is to free the hide from every particle of flesh, and to -reduce the thickness of the robe nearly one half, and sometimes -even more.</p> - -<p>This fleshing, as it is termed, having been thoroughly accomplished, -the hide is thoroughly moistened with water in -which the buffalo brains have been steeped. For ten days -the hide is kept damp with this brain water. Once each day -the hide is taken up and every portion of it rubbed and re-rubbed -by the squaws, who do not have recourse to anything -like a rubbing-board, but use their hands until it would seem -as if the skin would soon be worn off. There seems to be -no definite rule as to the length of time which the robe shall -occupy in curing. The squaw labors until the hide becomes -a robe, which may require the work of one week or two, -sometimes even more; but I think that ten days may be considered -as the average time which it takes to properly cure a -robe.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><span class="smcap">To Dress Deer Skins.</span>—Put the skin into the liquid while -warm, viz: eight quarts rain water to one pint soft soap. -Warm it. Then punch the hide, or work it with a soft stick,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_51">[51]</a></span> -and let it lay one day. It is then to be taken out and wrung—rolled -between two logs—or even a wringing machine will -be better. Then stretch it until it is dry, in the sun is best, -or by a hot fire. Then oil it thoroughly with any oil convenient.</p> - -<p>It should then be treated to the same bath of suds (heated -quite warm), and lay another day. Then pull it out and dry -as before. Any oil will do, but good fresh butter is better -than anything else. When the skin is dry rub it with ochre, -which will give it a splendid yellow color.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><span class="smcap">Tanning and Buffing for Deer Skin Gloves.</span>—For -each skin take a bucket of water and put into it 1 quart of -lime; let the skin or skins lay in from 3 to 4 days; then -rinse in clean water, hair and grain; then soak them in cold -water to get out the glue; now scour or pound in good soap -suds for half an hour; after which take white vitriol, alum -and salt, one tablespoon of each to a skin; this will be dissolved -in sufficient water to cover the skin and remain in it -for 24 hours; wring out as dry as convenient, and spread on -with a brush <span class="fnum">1</span>/<span class="fden">2</span> pint of currier’s oil, and hang in the sun -about two days; after which you will scour out the oil -with soap suds, and hang out again until perfectly dry; -then pull and work them until they are soft; and if a reasonable -time does not make them soft, scour out in suds -again as before, until complete.</p> - -<p>The oil may be saved by pouring or taking it from the top -of the suds, if left standing a short time. The buff color is -given by spreading yellow ochre evenly over the surface of -the skin, when finished, rubbing it in well with a brush.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><span class="smcap">Dyeing for Buckskin</span>, (Buff.)—5 parts of whiting to 2 -parts of ochre (yellow), and mix them with water to a paste; -make into cakes and dry. When a dressed skin is dry, rub -one of the balls over the surface; rub the powder in. Take -a piece of sand-paper and raise a nap on the leather by going -over it. (Black.)—Take clear logwood; after it is dry use -copperas water to blacken it. Be careful and not use too -much. (Dark Brown.)—5 pounds of oak bark; 4 pounds -of fustic; 14 ounces of logwood. Use alum water (strong) -to make it strike in. (Drab.)—Mix blue clay with soft soap; -add blue vitriol to shade the color. It can be made any shade -you wish.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><span class="smcap">Dyeing for Morocco and Sheep Leather.</span>—The following -colors may be imparted to leather, according to the various -uses for which it is intended. (Blue.)—Blue is given by -steeping the subject a day in urine and indigo, then boiling -it with alum; or it may be given by tempering the indigo -with red wine, and washing the skins therewith.</p> - -<p>(Another.)—Boil elderberries or dwarf elder, then smear<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_52">[52]</a></span> -and wash the skins therewith and wring them out; then boil -the elderberries as before in a solution of alum water, and -wet the skins in the same manner once or twice; dry them, -and they will be very blue. (Red.)—Red is given by washing -the skin and laying them two hours in galls, then wringing -them out, dipping them in a liquor made with ligustrum, -alum and verdigris; in water, and lastly in a dye made of -Brazil wood boiled with lye. (Purple.)—Purple is given by -wetting the skins with a solution of roche alum in warm -water, and when dry, again rubbing them with the hand -with a decoction of logwood in cold water. (Green.)—Green -is given by smearing the skin with sap green and alum -water, boiled. (Dark Green.)—Dark green is given with -steel filings and sal ammoniac, steeped in urine till soft, -then smeared over the skin, which is to be dried in the shade. -(Yellow.)—Yellow is given by smearing the skin over with -aloes and linseed oil, dissolved and strained, or by infusing -it in weld. (Light Orange.)—Orange color is given by -smearing it with fustic berries boiled in alum water, or, for -a deep orange, with turmeric. (Sky color.)—Sky color is -given with indigo steeped in boiling water, and the next -morning warmed and smeared over the skin.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><span class="smcap">Operation of Tanning.</span>—The first operation is to soak the -hide, as no hide can be properly tanned unless it has been -soaked and broken on a fleshing beam. If the hide has not -been salted add a little salt and soak it in soft water. In -order to be thoroughly soaked, green hides should remain in -this liquor from 9 to 12 days; of coarse the lime varies with -the thickness of the hide. The following liquor is used to -remove hair or wool, viz: 10 gallons cold water (soft), 8 -quarts slacked lime, and same quantity of wood ashes. Soak -until the hair or wool will pull off easily.</p> - -<p>As it frequently happens it is desirable to cure the hide -and keep the hair clean, the following paste should be made, -viz: equal parts of lime and hard-wood ashes, (lime should -be slacked,) and made into a paste with soft water. This -should be spread on the flesh side of the hide and the skin -rolled up, flesh side in, and placed in a tub, just covering it -with water. It should remain 10 days, or until the hair will -pull out easily, then scrape off with a knife.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><span class="smcap">To Deoderize Skunk Skins.</span>—To deoderize skunk skins or -articles for clothing scented, hold them over a fire of red -cedar boughs, and sprinkle with chloride of lime; or wrap -them in green hemlock boughs when they are to be had, and -in 24 hours they will be cleansed.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><span class="smcap">How to Shoot Snipe.</span>—To the beginner no bird is more -puzzling, and, therefore, more difficult to shoot. Its flight -is most uncertain, most variable, and most irregular—rising<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_53">[53]</a></span> -at one time as evenly as a lark, and flying close to the -ground with scarcely the slightest deviation from a straight -line; at another, springing from the ground as if fired from -a gun, and then flying in a zig-zag course to the right or left, -and, indeed, in every direction; and sometimes, again, rising -to a great height, and then going straight away with the -rapidity of lightning. And yet, with all these apparent difficulties, -when the knack is once acquired, it becomes comparatively -easy—indeed, is reduced almost to a certainty. -The great art in this kind of shooting is coolness, and to -avoid too much hurry. And, in this, as in every other kind -of shooting, the first sight is the best; the moment you are -“well on” your bird, the trigger should be pulled. In cross -shots, fire well before your bird. Contrary to the usual practice, -you should always walk down wind; the reason for this -is that snipe always rise against it. Sometimes snipe are -very wild, and at others will lie until they are almost trodden -upon. If there be much wind, your best chance is to “down -with them” as soon as they rise from the ground, or you -have little hope of getting a bag.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><span class="smcap">Preseveratives for Skins.</span>—The best material for the -preseveration of skins of animals consists in powdered arsenious -acid, or the common arsenic of the shops. This -may be used in two ways: either applied in dry powder on -the moist skin, or, still better, mixed with alcohol or water -to the consistency of molasses, and put on with a brush. -Some camphor may be added to the alcoholic solution, and a -little strychnine will undoubtedly increase its efficacy. There -are no satisfactory substitutes for arsenic, but, in its entire -absence, corrosive sublimate, camphor, alum, etc., may be -employed.</p> - -<p>Many persons prefer the arsenical soap to the pure arsenic. -This is composed of the following ingredients, arsenic, 1 -ounce; white soap, 1 ounce; carbonate of potash, 1 dram; -water, 6 drams; camphor, 2 drams. Cut the soap into thin -slices, and melt over a slow fire with the water, stirring it -continually; when dissolved, remove from the fire, and add -the potash and arsenic by degrees; dissolve the camphor in -a little alcohol, and when the mixture is nearly cold, stir -it in.</p> - -<p>The proper materials for stuffing out skins will depend -much upon the size of the animal. For small birds and -quadrupeds, cotton will be found most convenient; for the -larger, tow; for those still larger, dry grass, straw, sawdust, -bran, or other vegetable substances, may be used. Whatever -substance be used, care must be taken to have it perfectly -dry. Under no circumstances should animal matter, -as hair, wool, or feathers, be employed.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_54">[54]</a></span></p> - -<p>The bills and loral region, as well as the legs and feet of -birds, and the ears, lips and toes of mammals, may, as most -exposed to the ravages of insects, be washed with an alcoholic -solution of strychnine applied with a brush to the dried -skin; this will be an almost certain safeguard against injury.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><span class="smcap">Fishing with Natural Fly.</span>—This consists in fishing -with the natural flies, grasshoppers, etc., which are found -on the banks of the rivers or lakes where you are fishing. -It is practiced with a long rod, running tackle, and fine line. -When learning this system of angling, begin by fishing close -under the banks, gradually increasing your distance until -you can throw your live bait across the stream, screening -yourself behind a tree, a bush, or a cluster of weeds, otherwise -you will not have the satisfaction of lifting a single fish -out of the water. In rivers where immense quantities of -weeds grow in the summer, so as almost to check the current, -you must fish where the stream runs most rapidly, taking -care that in throwing your line into those parts you do not -entangle it among the weeds. Draw out only as much line -as will let the fly touch the surface, and if the wind is at -your back it will be of no material service to you in carrying -the fly lightly over the water. In such places the water is -generally still, and your bait must, if possible, be dropped -with no more noise than the living fly would make if it fell -into the water.</p> - -<p>Keep the top of your rod a little elevated, and frequently -raise and depress it and move it to and fro very gently, in -order that the fly by its shifting about may deceive the fish -and tempt them to make a bite. The instant your bait is -taken, strike smartly, and if the fish is not so large as to -overstrain and snap your tackle, haul it out immediately, as -you may scare away many while trying to secure one. There -are very many baits which may be used with success in -natural fly fishing, of which, however, we shall content ourselves -with enumerating some of the most usual and useful.</p> - -<p>Wasps, hornets and bumble bees are esteemed good baits -for dace, eels, roach, bream and chub; they should be dried -in an oven over the fire, and if not overdone, they will keep -a long while.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><span class="smcap">How to Select Furs.</span>—In purchasing furs, a sure test of -what dealers call a “prime” fur is the length and density of -the down next the skin; this can be readily determined by -blowing a brisk current of air from the mouth against the -set of fur. If the fibers open readily, exposing the skin to -the view, reject the article; but if the down is so dense that -the breath cannot penetrate it, or at most shows but a small -portion of the skin, the article may be accepted.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_55">[55]</a></span></p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><span class="smcap">To Clean Furs.</span>—Strip the fur articles of their stuffing -and binding, and lay them as much as possible in a flat position. -They must then be subjected to a very brisk brushing, -with a stiff clothes brush; after that, any moth-eaten parts -must be cut out, and be neatly replaced by new bits of fur -to match. Sable, chinchilla, squirrel, fitch, etc., should be -treated as follows: Warm a quantity of new bran in a pan, -taking care that it does not burn, to prevent which it must -be actively stirred. When well warmed, rub it thoroughly -into the fur with the hand. Repeat this two or three times; -then shake the fur, and give it another sharp brushing until -free from dust. White furs, ermine, etc., may be cleaned as -follows: Lay the fur on the table, and rub it well with bran -made moist with warm water; rub until quite dry, and afterward -with dry bran. The wet bran should be put on with -flannel, and the dry with a piece of book-muslin.</p> - -<p>The light furs, in addition to the above, should be well -rubbed with magnesia, or a piece of book-muslin after the -bran process. Furs are usually much improved by stretching, -which may be managed as follows: to a pint of soft -water add three ounces of salt; dissolve; with this solution -sponge the inside of the skin (taking care not to wet the fur) -until it becomes thoroughly saturated; then lay it carefully -on a board with the fur side downward, in its natural disposition, -then stretch as much as it will bear, to the required -shape, and fasten with small tacks. The drying may be -quickened by placing the skin a little distance from the fire -or stove.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><span class="smcap">Fishing with Artificial Fly.</span>—Artificial fly fishing consists -in the use of imitations of these flies and of other fancy -flies, and is unquestionably the most scientific mode of -angling, requiring great tact and practice to make the flies -with neatness and to use them successfully, and calling -forth as it does so much more skill than the ordinary method -of bottom fishing, it merits its superior reputation.</p> - -<p>It possesses many advantages over bottom fishing, but at -the same time it has its disadvantages; it is much more cleanly -in its preparations, inasmuch as it does not require the angler -to grub for clay and work up a quantity of ground baits, and -is not so toilsome in its practice, for the only encumbrances -which the fly fisher has are simply a light rod, a book of flies -and whatever fish he may chance to catch; but there are -several kinds of fish which will not rise at a fly, and even -those that do will not be lured from their quiet retreat during -very wet or cold weather. It would be well if the young -angler could go out for some little time with an old experienced -hand, to observe and imitate his movements as closely -as possible.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_56">[56]</a></span></p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><span class="smcap">To Prepare Sheep Skins for Mats.</span>—Make a strong -lather with hot water and let it stand till cold; wash the fresh -skin in it, carefully squeezing out all the dirt from the wool; -wash it in cold water till all the soap is taken out. Dissolve -a pound each of salt and alum in two gallons of hot water, -and put the skin into a tub sufficient to cover it; let it soak -for twelve hours, and hang it over a pole to drain. When -well drained stretch it carefully on a board to dry, and stretch -several times while drying. Before it is quite dry, sprinkle -on the flesh side one ounce each of finely pulverized alum -and saltpetre, rubbing it in well.</p> - -<p>Try if the wool be firm on the skin; if not, let it remain -a day or two, then rub again with alum; fold the flesh sides -together and hang in the shade for two or three days, turning -them over each day till quite dry. Scrape the flesh side -with a blunt knife, and rub it with pumice or rotten stone.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><span class="smcap">To Tan Sheep Skins.</span>—Sheep skins, which are used for a -variety of purposes, such as gloves, book-covers, etc., and -which when dyed, are converted into mock Morocco leather, -are dressed as follows: They are first to be soaked in water -and handled, to separate all impurities, which may be -scraped off by a blunt knife on a beam. They are then to -be hung up in a close, warm room to putrefy. This putrefaction -loosens the wool, and causes the exudation of an oily -and slimy matter, all which are to be removed by the knife. -The skins are now to be steeped in milk of lime, to harden -and thicken; here they remain for 1 month or 6 weeks, -according to circumstances, and when taken out, they are -to be smoothed on the fleshy side with a sharp knife. They -are now to be steeped in a bath of bran and water, where -they undergo a partial fermentation, and become thinner in -their substance.</p> - -<p>The skins, which are now called pelts, are to be immersed -in a solution of alum and common salt in water; in the proportion -of 120 skins to three pounds of alum and five pounds -of salt. They are to be much agitated in this compound saline -bath, in order to become firm and tough. From this bath they -are to be removed to another, composed of bran and water, -where they remain until quite pliant by a slight fermentation. -To give their upper surface a gloss, they are to be trodden in -a wooden tub, with a solution of yolks of eggs in water, previously -well beaten up. When this solution has become transparent, -it is a proof that the skins have absorbed the glazing -matter. The pelt may now be said to be converted into -leather, which is to be drained from moisture, hung upon -hooks in a warm apartment to dry, and smoothed over with -warm hand-irons.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><span class="smcap">To Trap Young Mink.</span>—<span class="smcap">Mink Breeding.</span>—Adult minks<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_57">[57]</a></span> -are almost untamable, but young ones readily submit to -handling, and are easily domesticated. The time to secure -young minks is in May and June, when they begin to run with -their dams. The streams must be quietly watched for mink -trails, and these tracked to the nest.</p> - -<p>When they leave the hole the old one may be shot, and -the young ones secured, or they may be dug out. Those -who own a breeding stock of minks ask high prices for -them; but trappers represent to us that it is an easy matter -to get the wild young ones. <em>Habits.</em>—A successful breeder -says that he does not attempt to tame the wild mink, but -only aims to supply for it in a small space all the necessities -of its natural instincts. He says the mating season commences -about the first of March, and lasts two weeks, never -varying much from that date.</p> - -<p>The female carries her young about six weeks. In the -minkery, where diet, water, temperature, etc., are similar -with each animal, there is so little difference in the time of -mating and time of bearing young in different animals, that -five out of six litters dropped last spring, were born within -twelve hours of each other. The young are blind from four -to five weeks, but are very active, and playful as kittens. -The mother weans them at from eight to ten weeks old. At -four weeks the mother begins to feed them meat; this they -learn to suck before they have teeth to eat it.</p> - -<p>The nests in which the young are born are lined by the -mother with some soft material, and are made in the hollow -of some old stump, or between the projecting roots of some -old tree, and always where it is perfectly dry. The nest is -located near pure running water, which the mother visits -twice every twenty-four hours. She feeds her young on frogs, -fish, birds, mice, crabs, etc., etc. The mink is from birth a -pattern of neatness and cleanliness, and as soon as a nest -begins to get foul and offensive, she takes one of the young -in her mouth, and depositing it in a clean, suitable place, -builds a nest about it, and then brings the balance of the litter. -She feeds and cares for them until they are three and a -half or four months old. When the young are weaned, about -the 10th of July, she builds her nest near the water, in which -the young soon learn to play. There are usually four in a -litter, though the number ranges from two to six. Towards -fall the mother separates them into pairs. One pair—or if -the number be odd, the odd one—is left in the nest; the other -pair or pairs, she places them often half a mile from each -other, and then seeks new quarters for herself.</p> - -<p>The young soon separate, and each one catches his own -frogs, etc. They do not pair, but the male is a sort of rover -and free-lover. Minks are unsociable, petulant, vicious in<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_58">[58]</a></span> -play, savage in war. Late in the fall they establish regular -runaways from one stream to another, and usually under -brush-fallen trees, weeds swale, and under banks—anywhere, -in fact, where they can avoid the sunshine, and escape the -chances of observation. The mink is a sure prophet, and -just before hard winter begins, he lays by a store of food for -the winter in safe places near his winter nests, of which he -has several. As the snows fall he burrows under the snow, -where he remains until about February, when his supply of -food is exhausted, and he is forced to seek further for food.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><span class="smcap">Management of.</span>—Mink being by nature solitary, wandering -creatures, being seldom seen in company except during -the breeding season, are, therefore, impossible to be reared -successfully, if large numbers are kept constantly together, -therefore their inclosure should be a large one.</p> - -<p>The male and female should be permitted to be together -frequently from the middle of February until the middle of -March. At all other times keep them entirely separate. -The young mink make their appearance about the first of -May. When wild in the woods they will seldom vary five -days from this time, but when kept in confinement there is -greater variation. About this season they should have -plenty of fine hay, which they will carry into their boxes to -make nests. A box three or four feet long and eighteen -inches wide is the shape they prefer. It should be placed as -far as possible from the water to prevent the mink from carrying -water and mud into it.</p> - -<p>The young mink when first born are small and delicate, -destitute of any kind of fur, and much resembling young -rats. If the old mink is tame the young ones may be taken -out of the nest and handled when they are three weeks old. -They will soon learn to drink milk, and may feed every day. -At five weeks old they may be taken from the mother and put -into a pen by themselves, when they will soon become very -playful and pretty, and make much better mothers than they -would if allowed to run with the old ones.</p> - -<p>The shelter should be in the shape of a long box, 5 or 6 -feet wide, and 3 or 4 feet high, set upon legs, and with a -good floor and roof. Divide it into separate compartments, -6 feet long (or longer would be better,) the front of each -apartment to be furnished with a swinging door of strong -wire screen, with the hinges at the top, and a button or some -kind of fastener at the bottom. A trough 6 inches square, -made by nailing three boards together, should run the -whole length of the pen on the back side; one end of the -trough should be made several inches lower than the other, -so that the water can be drawn off. With this arrangement, -the water can be turned in at one end of the trough, and<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_59">[59]</a></span> -drawn off and changed as often as desired. The lower end -of the trough should be a little deeper than the other, to prevent -the water from running over. Each apartment is furnished -with a box 3 feet long and eighteen inches wide. On -one side of the box and near one end is made a round hole, -<span class="nowrap">2 <span class="fnum">1</span>/<span class="fden">2</span></span> inches in diameter, and provided with a sliding cover -so that by means of a stick it can be opened or closed from -the outside.</p> - -<p>This is so the mink can be shut up when the pen is being -cleaned out. On the top of the box and at the other end -should be a door large enough to put in hay for the nest and -take out the young. It is necessary that they have abundance -of pure, soft water, fresh air, desirable shade and -plenty of exercise. These conditions secure to the mink a -good quality of dark fur and good health. Brush, weeds, -etc., are allowed to grow in the yard, but not near enough -the wall to admit of their climbing up and out.</p> - -<p>In addition to the above directions for breeding mink, we -give the following experience of a gentleman in Vermont: -“I purchased one female and her litter of five, two males and -four females in all, and constructed a building of rough -boards, 10 by 4 feet, for a minkery. It had a floor tight -enough to prevent the escape of the animals, was properly -ventilated, and divided into six apartments, one of which is -an ante-room in which to step from the outside and close the -door. Water is supplied by a lead pipe running in at one -side through all the rooms, and out at the other into a -trough where small fish are kept, and occasionally given to -the minks.</p> - -<p>“They were kept together until December the 18th, when -the males were put in an apartment by themselves. On the -10th of March each male was put in with a female, each pair -separate, and after a couple of days, one of the males was put -in with another female, and finally with the third. They were -separated about the 1st of April, each female being kept -alone and supplied with a suitable box, with warm material -for a nest. When it was supposed they were about to bring -forth their young, they were disturbed as little as possible; -anything to excite them at this time, should be avoided, for -when irritated, they will sometimes eat their young. The -first female put with the perfect male, brought forth seven, -one of which disappeared after they began to crawl around -out of their nest. The other two females had each a pair, all -of which (but the one mentioned) are now alive, fine, fat, -sleek fellows, and fully grown. They are very easily kept, -being fed once a day upon warm milk with wheat bread -crumbs—a quart sufficing for the whole lot, and once upon -fresh meat, care being taken not to over-feed.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_60">[60]</a></span></p> - -<p>“Any kind of meat and offal that is not too fat will answer. -They are very fond of beef liver, chickens’ heads and entrails, -woodchucks (being careful not to give them the gall -or the liver, which is poisonous), rats, mice, etc. They are -more easily cared for than one hog and much more cheaply -kept. Nothing was paid out for meat for them until after -1st July, when a contract was made with a butcher to leave -a bullock’s head once a week. I am confident that the increase -of the minkery would have been fully one-third more -if both the males had been perfect. I intend to keep them -in pairs hereafter. They are not easily handled, but struggle -when caught against their will and exude the thick fetid -substance from glands near the vent. They will bite severely, -but can be handled safely with thick buckskin gloves.”</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> -<img src="images/i060.jpg" width="550" height="156" alt="THE END." /> -</div> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<div class="chapter"></div><!--Page break for ePub--> - -<div class="boxad"> - -<p class="center xlargefont boldfont">USEFUL AND INSTRUCTIVE BOOKS.</p> - -<p class="hangindent">HOW TO KEEP AND MANAGE PETS—Giving complete -information as to the manner and method of raising, -keeping, taming, breeding, and managing all kinds of -pets; also giving full instructions for making cages, -etc. Fully explained by 28 illustrations, making it the -most complete book of the kind ever published. Price -10 cents. Address Frank Tousey, publisher, New York.</p> - -<p class="hangindent">HOW TO DO ELECTRICAL TRICKS.—Containing a -large collection of instructive and highly amusing -electrical tricks, together with illustrations. By A. -Anderson. Price 10 cents. For sale by all newsdealers, -or sent, post-paid, upon receipt of the price. Address -Frank Tousey, Publisher, New York.</p> - -<p class="hangindent">HOW TO WRITE LETTERS—A wonderful little book, -telling you how to write to your sweetheart, your -father, mother, sister, brother, employer; and, in fact, -everybody and anybody you wish to write to. Every -young man and every young lady in the land should -have this book. It is for sale by all newsdealers. Price -10 cents, or sent from this office on receipt of price. -Address Frank Tousey, publisher, New York.</p> - -<p class="hangindent">HOW TO DO PUZZLES—Containing over 300 interesting -puzzles and conundrums with key to same. A complete -book. Fully illustrated. By A. Anderson. Price -10 cents. For sale by all newsdealers, or sent, post-paid, -upon receipt of the price. Address Frank Tousey, -Publisher, New York.</p> - -<p class="hangindent">HOW TO DO 40 TRICKS WITH CARDS—Containing -deceptive Card Tricks as performed by leading conjurers -and magicians. Arranged for home amusement. -Fully illustrated. Price 10 cents. Address Frank -Tousey, publisher, New York.</p> - -<p class="hangindent">HOW TO MAKE A MAGIC LANTERN—Containing -description of the lantern, together with its history -and invention. Also full directions for its use and for -painting slides. Handsomely illustrated, by John Allen. -Price 10 cents. For sale by all newsdealers in the -United States and Canada, or will be sent to your address, -post-paid, on receipt of price. Address Frank -Tousey, publisher, New York.</p> - -<p class="hangindent">HOW TO BECOME AN ACTOR—Containing complete -instructions how to make up for various characters on -the stage; together with the duties of the Stage Manager, -Prompter, Scenic Artist and Property Man. By -a prominent Stage Manager. Price 10 cents. Address -Frank Tousey, publisher, N. Y.</p> -</div> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<div class="chapter"></div><!--Page break for ePub--> - -<div class="boxad"> -<p class="sansseriffont xlargefont boldfont center">BUY A COPY OF</p> -<p class="sansseriffont xxlargefont boldfont center">“WILD WEST WEEKLY”</p> -<p class="largefont center">CONTAINING</p> - -<p class="sansseriffont xlargefont boldfont center">Stories of Western Life</p> - -<p class="sansseriffont xlargefont boldfont center">By AN OLD SCOUT</p> - -<p class="xlargefont boldfont center"><em>32 Pages of Splendid Reading Matter. Beautifully -Illuminated Covers. A New One -Issued Every Friday. Price 5 Cents.</em></p> - -<p>This library gives the daring adventures of a plucky boy -among the cowboys, Indians, miners and soldiers of the Far West. -They are the most dashing romances ever written, and will hold -your interest from beginning to end.</p> - -<p class="sansseriffont largefont boldfont center">SEE HOW YOU LIKE THEM</p> - -<p class="sansseriffont largefont boldfont center">Glance Over This List:</p> - -<p>No.</p> - -<p class="aditem2">90 Young Wild West’s Indian Scout; or, Arietta and the Pawnee Maiden.</p> - -<p class="aditem2">91 Young Wild West and the “Salted” Mine; or, The Double Game for a Million.</p> - -<p class="aditem2">92 Young Wild West’s Overland Route; or, The Masked Band of Death Pass.</p> - -<p class="aditem2">93 Young Wild West’s Iron Grip; or, Settling the Cowboy Feud.</p> - -<p class="aditem2">94 Young Wild West’s Last Chance; or, Arietta’s Narrow Escape.</p> - -<p class="aditem2">95 Young Wild West and the Gold Grabbers; or, The Fight for the Widow’s Claim.</p> - -<p class="aditem2">96 Young Wild West and the Branded Band; or, The Scourge of Skeleton Skit.</p> - -<p class="aditem2">97 Young Wild West’s Double Danger; or, The Sign of the Secret Seven.</p> - -<p class="aditem2">98 Young Wild West and the Renegade Rustlers; or, Saved by the Sorrel Stallion.</p> - -<p class="aditem2">99 Young Wild West’s Fandango; or, Arietta Among the Mexicans.</p> - -<p class="aditem3">100 Young Wild West and the Double Deuce; or, The Domino Gang of Denver.</p> - -<p class="aditem3">101 Young Wild West on the Prairie; or, The Trail That Had No End.</p> - -<p class="aditem3">102 Young Wild West and “Missouri Mike”; or, The Worst Man in Wyoming.</p> - -<p class="aditem3">103 Young Wild West at the Golden Gate; or, a Business Trip to ’Frisco.</p> - -<p class="aditem3">104 Young Wild West and the Redskin Raiders; or, Arietta’s Leap for Life.</p> - -<p><em>For sale by all newsdealers or sent to any address on receipt of -price, 5 cents per copy, in money or postage stamps.</em></p> - -<p class="largefont boldfont center">FRANK TOUSEY, Publisher, 24 Union Square, N. Y.</p> -</div> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<div class="chapter"></div><!--Page break for ePub--> - -<div class="boxad"> -<p class="xlargefont boldfont center">ARE YOU READING</p> - -<p class="xxlargefont boldfont center">“Work <span class="smcap">AND</span> Win”</p> - -<p class="largefont center">IT CONTAINS</p> - -<p class="xlargefont boldfont center">The Great Fred Fearnot Stories</p> - -<p class="largefont boldfont center"> -ISSUED EVERY FRIDAY<br /> -32 PAGES <span style="padding-left:5em">PRICE 5 CENTS</span><br /> -HANDSOME COLORED COVERS<br /> -</p> - -<p>Each number details the interesting, humorous and startling -adventures of two bright, independent boys. They see everything -in life, enjoy plenty fun and do all the good they can. Don’t miss -these stories.</p> - -<p class="largefont boldfont center">THEY ARE FINE</p> - -<p class="largefont boldfont center">Read the Following Titles:</p> - -<p>No.</p> - -<p class="aditem3">294 Fred Fearnot’s Wall Street Game; or, Fighting the Bucket Shops.</p> - -<p class="aditem3">295 Fred Fearnot’s Society Circus; or, The Fun That Built a School-House.</p> - -<p class="aditem3">296 Fred Fearnot’s Wonderful Courage; or, The Mistake of the Train Robber.</p> - -<p class="aditem3">297 Fred Fearnot’s Friend from India, and the Wonderful Things He Did.</p> - -<p class="aditem3">298 Fred Fearnot and the Poor Widow; or, Making a Mean Man Do Right.</p> - -<p class="aditem3">299 Fred Fearnot’s Cowboys; or, Tackling the Ranch Raiders.</p> - -<p class="aditem3">300 Fred Fearnot and the Money Lenders; or, Breaking Up a Swindling Gang.</p> - -<p class="aditem3">301 Fred Fearnot’s Gun Club; or, Shooting for a Diamond Cup.</p> - -<p class="aditem3">302 Fred Fearnot and the Braggart; or, Having Fun with an Egotist.</p> - -<p class="aditem3">303 Fred Fearnot’s Fire Brigade; or, Beating the Insurance Frauds.</p> - -<p class="aditem3">304 Fred Fearnot’s Temperance Lectures; or, Fighting Rum and Ruin.</p> - -<p class="aditem3">305 Fred Fearnot and the “Cattle Queen”; or, A Desperate Woman’s Game.</p> - -<p class="aditem3">306 Fred Fearnot and the Boomers; or, The Game that Failed.</p> - -<p><em>For sale by all newsdealers or sent to any address on receipt of -price, 5 cents per copy, in money or postage stamps.</em></p> - -<p class="largefont boldfont center">FRANK TOUSEY, Publisher, 24 Union Square, N. Y.</p> -</div> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<div class="chapter"></div><!--Page break for ePub--> - -<div class="boxad"> -<p class="center xlargefont boldfont">USEFUL AND INSTRUCTIVE BOOKS.</p> - -<p class="hangindent">HOW TO DO THE BLACK ART—Containing a complete -description of the mysteries of Magic and Sleight-of-Hand, -together with many wonderful experiments. By -A. Anderson. Illustrated. Price 10 cents. Address -Frank Tousey, publisher, N. Y.</p> - -<p class="hangindent">HOW TO BE A DETECTIVE—By Old King Brady, the -world known detective. In which he lays down some -valuable and sensible rules for beginners, and also relates -some adventures and experiences of well-known -detectives. Price 10 cents. For sale by all newsdealers -in the United States and Canada, or sent to your -address, post-paid, on receipt of price. Address Frank -Tousey, publisher, New York.</p> - -<p class="hangindent">HOW TO BECOME A CONJURER—Containing tricks -with Dominoes, Dice, Cups and Balls, Hats, etc. Embracing -36 illustrations. By A. Anderson. Price 10 -cents. Address Frank Tousey, publisher, New York.</p> - -<p class="hangindent">HOW TO DO MECHANICAL TRICKS—Containing complete -instructions for performing over sixty Mechanical -Tricks. By A. Anderson. Fully illustrated. Price -10 cents. For sale by all newsdealers, or we will send -it by mail, postage free, upon receipt of price. Address -Frank Tousey, Publisher, N. Y.</p> - -<p class="hangindent">HOW TO DO SIXTY TRICKS WITH CARDS—Embracing -all of the latest and most deceptive card tricks -with illustrations. By A. Anderson. Price 10 cents. -For sale by all newsdealers, or we will send it to you -by mail, postage free, upon receipt of price. Address -Frank Tousey, Publisher, N. Y.</p> - -<p class="hangindent">HOW TO MAKE ELECTRICAL MACHINES—Containing -full directions for making electrical machines, induction -coils, dynamos, and many novel toys to be -worked by electricity. By R. A. R. Bennett. Fully illustrated. -Price 10 cents. For sale by all newsdealers -in the United States and Canada, or will be sent to your -address, post-paid, on receipt of price. Address Frank -Tousey, publisher, New York.</p> - -<p class="hangindent">HOW TO BECOME A BOWLER—A complete manual of -bowling. Containing full instructions for playing all -the standard American and German games, together -with rules and systems of sporting in use by the principal -bowling clubs in the United States. By Bartholomew -Batterson. Price 10 cents. For sale by all -newsdealers in the United States and Canada, or sent -to your address, postage free, on receipt of the price. -Address Frank Tousey, publisher, New York.</p> -</div> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<div class="chapter"></div><!--Page break for ePub--> - -<div class="boxad1"> -<p class="sansseriffont xxlargefont boldfont center">OUR TEN CENT HAND BOOKS.</p> - -<p class="largefont boldfont center">USEFUL, INSTRUCTIVE AND AMUSING.</p> - -<p>Containing valuable information on almost every subject, such as -<b>Writing</b>, <b>Speaking</b>, <b>Dancing</b>, <b>Cooking</b>; also <b>Rules of Etiquette</b>, <b>The Art -of Ventriloquism</b>, <b>Gymnastic Exercises</b>, and <b>The Science of Self-Defense</b>, -<b>etc.</b>, <b>etc.</b></p> - -<p class="aditem1">1 Napoleon’s Oraculum and Dream Book.</p> - -<p class="aditem1">2 How to Do Tricks.</p> - -<p class="aditem1">3 How to Flirt.</p> - -<p class="aditem1">4 How to Dance.</p> - -<p class="aditem1">5 How to Make Love.</p> - -<p class="aditem1">6 How to Become an Athlete.</p> - -<p class="aditem1">7 How to Keep Birds.</p> - -<p class="aditem1">8 How to Become a Scientist.</p> - -<p class="aditem1">9 How to Become a Ventriloquist.</p> - -<p class="aditem2">10 How to Box.</p> - -<p class="aditem2">11 How to Write Love Letters.</p> - -<p class="aditem2">12 How to Write Letters to Ladies.</p> - -<p class="aditem2">13 How to Do It; or, Book of Etiquette.</p> - -<p class="aditem2">14 How to Make Candy.</p> - -<p class="aditem2">15 How to Become Rich.</p> - -<p class="aditem2">16 How to Keep a Window Garden.</p> - -<p class="aditem2">17 How to Dress.</p> - -<p class="aditem2">18 How to Become Beautiful.</p> - -<p class="aditem2">19 Frank Tousey’s U. S. Distance Tables, Pocket Companion and Guide.</p> - -<p class="aditem2">20 How to Entertain an Evening Party.</p> - -<p class="aditem2">21 How to Hunt and Fish.</p> - -<p class="aditem2">22 How to Do Second Sight.</p> - -<p class="aditem2">23 How to Explain Dreams.</p> - -<p class="aditem2">24 How to Write Letters to Gentlemen.</p> - -<p class="aditem2">25 How to Become a Gymnast.</p> - -<p class="aditem2">26 How to Row, Sail and Build a Boat.</p> - -<p class="aditem2">27 How to Recite and Book of Recitations.</p> - -<p class="aditem2">28 How to Tell Fortunes.</p> - -<p class="aditem2">29 How to Become an Inventor.</p> - -<p class="aditem2">30 How to Cook.</p> - -<p class="aditem2">31 How to Become a Speaker.</p> - -<p class="aditem2">32 How to Ride a Bicycle.</p> - -<p class="aditem2">33 How to Behave.</p> - -<p class="aditem2">34 How to Fence.</p> - -<p class="aditem2">35 How to Play Games.</p> - -<p class="aditem2">36 How to Solve Conundrums.</p> - -<p class="aditem2">37 How to Keep House.</p> - -<p class="aditem2">38 How to Become Your Own Doctor.</p> - -<p class="aditem2">39 How to Raise Dogs, Poultry, Pigeons and Rabbits.</p> - -<p class="aditem2">40 How to Make and Set Traps.</p> - -<p class="aditem2">41 The Boys of New York End Men’s Joke Book.</p> - -<p class="aditem2">42 The Boys of New York Stump Speaker.</p> - -<p class="aditem2">43 How to Become a Magician.</p> - -<p class="aditem2">44 How to Write in an Album.</p> - -<p class="aditem2">45 The Boys of New York Minstrel Guide and Joke Book.</p> - -<p class="aditem2">46 How to Make and Use Electricity.</p> - -<p class="aditem2">47 How to Break, Ride and Drive a Horse.</p> - -<p class="aditem2">48 How to Build and Sail Canoes.</p> - -<p class="aditem2">49 How to Debate.</p> - -<p class="aditem2">50 How to Stuff Birds and Animals.</p> - -<p class="aditem2">51 How to Do Tricks with Cards.</p> - -<p class="aditem2">52 How to Play Cards.</p> - -<p class="aditem2">53 How to Write Letters.</p> - -<p class="aditem2">54 How to Keep and Manage Pets.</p> - -<p class="aditem2">55 How to Collect Stamps and Coins.</p> - -<p class="aditem2">56 How to Become an Engineer.</p> - -<p class="aditem2">57 How to Make Musical Instruments.</p> - -<p class="aditem2">58 How to Become a Detective.</p> - -<p class="aditem2">59 How to Make a Magic Lantern.</p> - -<p class="aditem2">60 How to Become a Photographer.</p> - -<p class="aditem2">61 How to Become a Bowler.</p> - -<p class="aditem2">62 How to Become a West Point Military Cadet.</p> - -<p class="aditem2">63 How to Become a Naval Cadet.</p> - -<p class="aditem2">64 How to Make Electrical Machines.</p> - -<p class="aditem2">65 Muldoon’s Jokes.</p> - -<p class="aditem2">66 How to Do Puzzles.</p> - -<p class="aditem2">67 How to Do Electrical Tricks.</p> - -<p class="aditem2">68 How to Do Chemical Tricks.</p> - -<p class="aditem2">69 How to Do Sleight of Hand.</p> - -<p class="aditem2">70 How to Make Magic Toys.</p> - -<p class="aditem2">71 How to Do Mechanical Tricks.</p> - -<p class="aditem2">72 How to Do Sixty Tricks with Cards.</p> - -<p class="aditem2">73 How to Do Tricks with Numbers.</p> - -<p class="aditem2">74 How to Write Letters Correctly.</p> - -<p class="aditem2">75 How to Become a Conjuror.</p> - -<p class="aditem2">76 How to Tell Fortunes by the Hand.</p> - -<p class="aditem2">77 How to Do Forty Tricks with Cards.</p> - -<p class="aditem2">78 How to Do the Black Art.</p> - -<p class="aditem2">79 How to Become an Actor</p> - -<p class="aditem2">80 Gus Williams’ Joke Book.</p> - -<p>All the above books are for sale by newsdealers throughout the -United States and Canada, or they will be sent, post-paid, to your -address, on receipt of 10c. each.</p> - -<p><em>Send Your Name and Address for Our Latest Illustrated Catalogue.</em></p> - -<p class="xlargefont boldfont center">FRANK TOUSEY, Publisher,</p> - -<p class="sansseriffont largefont boldfont center">24 UNION SQUARE, NEW YORK.</p> -</div> - -<p> </p> -<hr class="tb" /> -<p> </p> -<p> </p> - -<div class="chapter"></div><!--Page break for ePub--> - -<div class="transnote"> -<h2 id="TN_end" style="margin-top: 0em">Transcriber’s Note:</h2> - -<p>Illustrations have been moved to paragraph breaks near where they are -mentioned.</p> - -<p>Punctuation has been made consistent.</p> - -<p>Variations in spelling and hyphenation were retained as they appear in -the original publication, except that obvious typographical errors -have been corrected.</p> - -<p>Changes have been made as follows:</p> - -<p>The notation 1 2 for fractions has been changed to <span class="fnum">1</span>/<span class="fden">2</span>.</p> - -<p>p. <a href="#Ref_11">11</a>: muste la changed to mustela (invest <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">mustela vulgaris</i>)</p> - -<p>p. <a href="#Ref_6">30</a>: 5 changed to 6 [(Fig. 6). The]</p> - -<p>p. <a href="#Ref_6a">39</a>: Fig. 6 referenced here does not exist.</p> -</div> - -<p> </p> -<hr class="full" /> -<p>***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HOW TO MAKE AND SET TRAPS***</p> -<p>******* This file should be named 50600-h.htm or 50600-h.zip *******</p> -<p>This and all associated files of various formats will be found in:<br /> -<a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/5/0/6/0/50600">http://www.gutenberg.org/5/0/6/0/50600</a></p> -<p> -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed.</p> - -<p>Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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