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diff --git a/old/50600-0.txt b/old/50600-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 4d418b4..0000000 --- a/old/50600-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3425 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg eBook, How to Make and Set Traps, by J. Harrington -Keene - - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - - - - -Title: How to Make and Set Traps - Including Hints on How to Trap Moles, Weasels, Otter, Rats, Squirrels and Birds; Also How to Cure Skins - - -Author: J. Harrington Keene - - - -Release Date: December 3, 2015 [eBook #50600] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - - -***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HOW TO MAKE AND SET TRAPS*** - - -E-text prepared by Craig Kirkwood, Demian Katz, and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team (http://www.pgdp.net) from page images generously made -available by the Villanova University Digital Library -(http://digital.library.villanova.edu) - - - -Note: Project Gutenberg also has an HTML version of this - file which includes the original illustrations. - See 50600-h.htm or 50600-h.zip: - (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/50600/50600-h/50600-h.htm) - or - (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/50600/50600-h.zip) - - - Images of the original pages are available through - Villanova University Digital Library. See - http://digital.library.villanova.edu/Item/vudl:296237 - - -Transcriber’s note: - - Text enclosed by underscores is in italics (_italics_). - - Text enclosed by equal signs is in bold face (=bold=). - - Figure numbers are not consecutive, with some numbers missing and - other numbers duplicated. - - An additional transcriber’s note is at the end. - - - - - -HOW TO MAKE AND SET TRAPS - -Including Hints on How to Trap Moles, Weasels, Otter, Rats, Squirrels -and Birds. - -Also How to Cure Skins. - -Copiously Illustrated. - -by - -J. HARRINGTON KEENE. - - - - - - - -New York: -Frank Tousey, Publisher, -24 Union Square. - -Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1902, by -Frank Tousey, -in the Office of the Librarian of Congress at Washington, D. C. - - -HOW TO MAKE AND SET TRAPS. - - - - -I. THE MOLE. - - -Dirt has been defined as “matter in the wrong place.” It is very -useful, and, indeed, indispensable, as earth in a garden, but decidedly -unbecoming and dirty when on your face or clothes. In a similar way, -most of the creatures termed “vermin” are in themselves very graceful -and beautiful specimens of the Creator’s handiwork, but when they -encroach on man’s paths of progress and improvement they become -“vermin,” and though all life should be looked upon as a fearful and -wonderful thing, not to be lightly taken from its possessor, they are -then justifiably slain. - -The little gentleman in black velvet--the mole--is a lovely-coated -little fellow, possessing many virtues, such as courage, industry, and -parental affection, but when he once gets into your father’s garden, -which has probably cost money and exceeding care to render it neat -and productive, our little friend is transformed into one of the most -troublesome of “vermin,” and must be relentlessly sacrificed by the -trapper. If this is not done, Master Mole will himself sacrifice the -crops in his efforts to get at the worms, which, as the late Charles -Darwin so conclusively showed, are one of the great regenerating forces -of the land’s fertility. - -Look at rats again. See how lithe and agile they are, how fond of their -young, and provident in storing food for future consumption; yet they -are without a redeeming excellency if, like dirt, they are in the wrong -place--as they are, by the way, pretty certain to be. - -Of the squirrel Mr. Ruskin, in his marvelously eloquent way, has said: -“Of all quadrupeds ... there is none so beautiful or so happy as the -squirrel. Innocent in all his ways, harmless in his food, playful as -a kitten, but without cruelty, and surpassing the dexterity of the -monkey, with the grace of a bird, the little dark-eyed miracle of the -forest goes from branch to branch more like a sunbeam than a living -thing. The chamois is slow to it, and the panther clumsy. It haunts -you, listens for you, hides from you, looks for you, loves you, as if -it were a plaything invented by the angel that walks by your children.” - -Alas! there is a reverse side to this beautiful word-picture of the -great art critic. The gamekeeper will tell you that mischievous Master -“Squiggy” is very fond of birds’ eggs--many a tiny wren, and many a -sweet-voiced blackbird has discovered this also--and that he above all -will often suck the dove-hued eggs of the pheasant. Much, therefore, as -I admire this little creature when he is in his native firtree, I shall -tell you how to catch him alive, so that he may be kept away from doing -harm. - -Again, the brilliant kingfisher, flashing by you like a beam of azure -light, is in his right place near the stickleback pond, but on my trout -river he is “vermin.” The same exposition of the properties of vermin -might be followed out in reference to all the creatures I intend to -hereafter teach you how to capture or destroy. - -So much by way of introduction, and now suppose, as I have above -referred to “the little gentleman in the velvet suit,” we begin with -him. Do not be alarmed at the few items of natural history I am going -to give you in reference to each “varmint.” It is better for you -to know about the funny little ways of the lower creation now than -wait till you are men, and perhaps unable to devote much time to the -acquisition of such knowledge. Besides, there is nothing mean or paltry -in such studies. Why, the great German Heber and our hardly less great -Sir John Lubbock have devoted their lives to ants and such small fry -till marvels of intelligence in these insects have been unfolded to -their wondering vision. Even the wise and mighty King Solomon did -not forget them. Do not despise small things because they are small, -therefore, for are we not ourselves as motes and specks of dust in the -sunbeam in the immensity of God? - -I most, however, return to the mole, or you may accuse me of preaching -a sermon when you were expecting to hear how to catch vermin. - -Well, the scientific name of the mole is Talpa Europæa, and its -distribution is all over Europe. France, Italy, Spain, Portugal, -Germany, Holland, Sweden, and Denmark alike produce it as well as our -own land. The main thing--or one of them--that arrests the attention -on first seeing the mole is the very hand-like fore paws. These -are attached to the body by a short forearm, and suggest immense -strength--which, as a matter of fact, they possess. They are used for -scooping the earth from before and throwing it on one side; and for -this purpose the claws are long and trenchant. The hind feet, which are -comparatively small, serve the purpose of throwing out the earth behind -with incredible quickness. The head also, being sharp-pointed, offers -no opposition to this boring through the soft soil, and the eyes, being -so tiny, are never injured by the soil through which the pointed snout -passes. - -For a long time people failed to discover that the mole possessed eyes, -so rudimentary and hidden are they. They are covered by the soft fur, -and it is to be presumed that as they are of little or no use in the -total darkness of subterranean passages, they serve only to apprise -their owner of the approach of light whenever it may find itself near -the surface of the ground. It sometimes has happened to me to find a -mole strayed from its habitation, I suppose, and on the surface of -the soil. From the experiment of putting an obstacle in front of it, -and its avoidance thereof, I have come to the conclusion that it can -see slightly, though it is evident when you dissect the head that the -organs of hearing are vastly more developed than those of sight. The -sense of smell is perhaps stronger than that of hearing--as one would -infer from the long, pointed, greyhound-like snout; and this should -be borne in mind when setting the trap. If indeed, in the case of any -animal, you are told that the sense of smell is well developed, handle -the ginsnare or trap as little as possible with the naked hand. There -is a distinctive odor in the human hand which animals, whether vermin -or not, seem instantly to recognize. - -[Illustration: Fig. 2.] - -Moles construct a fortress, or habitation, under a hillock or some such -convenient protection as a sort of central position, from which they -proceed outwards through various “runs” or roads in search of food -(see Fig. 2). This fortress has a dome of earth, which is beaten hard -by the creature, and so rendered strong and impervious to rain, snow, -dews, or frost. A in Fig. 2 represents the hollow center, which is also -dry and hard, whilst B B B signify the ramifying tunnels leading into -the galleries of the central fortress, and outwards to the tracts for -feeding and exploration, as well as to the nests of the various pairs -of sexes forming the community. Along these tracts the individuals -travel and obtain their livelihood, never stopping to gossip; for -if, indeed, one mole meets another by chance, one must turn out of -the way into the nearest alley, or there is a “row,” which generally -means death to the weaker--for, let me tell you, Mr. Talpa is a very -pugnacious little man when thwarted. - -Of course, you know that the food of the mole is chiefly comprised -of worms--and speaking of that reminds me of a method I once saw of -catching moles, which was cruel but very singular. I was fishing on the -Colne, near Wraysbury, and I noticed an old man in the field behind me -industriously going over the ground, and here and there drawing out a -live mole by means of what seemed a string. - -I laid down my rod and went over to him, and after a little persuasion -I got to understand the whole bag of tricks. His method was to dig -down to a fresh tunnel and “lay” a lobworm, threaded on a rather small -fish-hook tied on fine brass wire, covering in the hole with leaves -and dirt and securing the wire by a string to a stout peg. The mole, -being almost sure to return, would thus take the bait, and in most -cases get hooked in the mouth. This seems to me, however, a needlessly -cruel way of mole-catching when there are others quite as effectual and -practically painless, and I shall therefore not go any farther into the -particulars necessary for its practice. - -Moles are extremely voracious and, this being so, they crave and enjoy -large quantities of water. I have frequently watched moles descending -by a beaten run to the water--and, indeed, just opposite where I am -writing there is a tiny roadway from a mole hillock to the neighboring -ditch. Should a plentiful supply such as this not be handy, the little -animal sinks a well for himself, beating the interior hard and forming -quite a little shaft, which receives the rain and stores it. I came -across one some time ago which was quite a foot in depth and almost -full. - -I have said that there is a fortress usually built by a colony of -moles in the approximate form of Fig. 2, and so there is. The aim -of the mole-catcher should be if possible to find out where this -central position is and cut off retreat. I have seen the mole-catcher -in Windsor Park dig the moles out on finding out this metropolis of -moles--as it might be fitly called. - -It has been proved that immediately on anything very alarming -occurring, they forsake their explorations and flee into the citadel. -This is how it was done and who did it. - -Monsieur le Court, a French gentleman, very sensibly believing that -there was little else but horror and danger in the tumult and bloodshed -of the great French Revolution, fled from the court where he had waited -on and been the companion of the highest, and secluded himself in the -depth of the country to become the historian and friend of the humble -La Taupe, as the French term the mole. M. Geoffrey St. Hillaire visited -him, and together they watched their opportunity till one of the moles -had penetrated far from the fortress in search of food. - -Le Court then placed straws with little flags on the end out of the -ground at intervals in the passage behind the mole in such a way that -if the creature fled back again it would infallibly knock them down. -With a trumpet buried, leaving the mouth-piece out of the ground, he -blew a blast loud enough to shake the good-nature out of the best toy -of your acquaintance, and instantly one after the other, almost as fast -as a horse can trot, down went the little flags till the central home -was reached. The mole usually builds at the intersection of several of -the roads and not in the habitation. Its nest consists of fibers and -dried grass, straw, etc., and the young seldom number more than five. -Moles will sometimes take the water, but such instances are extremely -rare; there is no reason, however, why it should not be a good swimmer, -its front paws being so spatulous and strong. - -[Illustration: Fig. 3. Fig. 4.] - -Mole trapping is very seldom practiced, except by professionals, who -besides the blood money generally awarded on the production of each -mole’s tail, make a very nice little amount by selling the skins. Still -there is nothing difficult about mole catching, and the most stupid boy -could render himself successful if he observes a little and follows -the directions I am about to give. First, then as to tools, which are -indispensable when one is out for a day’s trap-setting. Fig. 3 shows -an implement which at A consists of an iron heavy spike which is used -for making holes for the insertion of the spring stick of the trap to -be described presently. B is the wooden haft--ash is as good as any; C -is a sort of spatula or little spade for digging into a mole run. Fig. -4 shows a light hatchet or a rather long handle for cutting hazel or -ash-spring sticks, pointing them, etc. - -[Illustration: Fig. 5.] - -Now as to the traps themselves. Fig. 5 shows the iron trap, usually -sold with galvanized uprights and claws. A indicates the spring which, -on the mole by placing its head in the circular orifice of B releasing -the latter, closes the claws to, killing the mole instantly. B, of -course, is a movable tongue of the shape shown at C, and ought to be -tied to the body of the trap in case the mole should by any means -escape, pulling the tongue (C) after it. This is, of course, a very -neat kind of trap, but a dozen of them would come expensive, and -besides, I do not prefer them in actual practice on a large scale, as -they are by no means so likely to be viewed without suspicion by the -mole as are the homespun traps I am going to describe. - -Get a strip of wood (deal is as good as anything) about six inches long -by four broad and half an inch thick, like D, Fig. 6. Bore nine holes -in it, four for the reception of the ends of two half circular hoofs of -wood shown at A, and four smaller ones for the two wires at A2 A2 to -pass through. One largish hole is made in the center, and through this -passes a cord with a knot at the end (C). B shows a piece of wood cut -like a little spatula with a somewhat blunt handle or head (see B2). -This tongue is placed against the knot when the spring hazel stick E -is in position as in Fig. 7. I want you to look carefully at Fig. 6 -because it very nearly explains itself. - -[Illustration: Fig. 6.] - -The whole apparatus is buried in the ground in the run of a mole, and -fastened down by sticks stuck athwart and across, as shown at Fig. 7. -The stick E is thus kept in position by the knot C and the tongue B and -B2. When a mole passes through the circular loops at A A it hits its -nose against B and knocks it out, releasing the knot C, which in turn -releases the bent stick, up this flies, and one of the wires A2 are -bound to catch the hapless Talpa, compressing it so strongly as to kill -it almost instantly. - -[Illustration: Fig. 7.] - -These are the details of how to set the trap. Having found out a run -where the mole-heaps are fresh, or have recently been thrown up, cut -down with the spade end of your tool (Fig. 3) into it, and with your -hands take out the dirt, feeling for and making clear the direction of -the passage each way. Now with the pointed end of Fig. 3 make a hole -slantwise, but not too much so, for the insertion of E (Fig. 6), which -should be a hazel, withy, or ash stick from half an inch in diameter. -Adjust the string of the trap to the top of it, and then set the -tongue, carefully spreading the loops of wire within the hoops. Now, -with the left hand on the trap, and assisted by the knee, bend the -spring stick down, place the trap in its position, and with the right -hand force in some short hazel sticks across and across, as shown in -Fig. 7. This done, your trap is set, and a turf can be broken up and -spread round the top of it, to keep out any light, from the interior -of the run. If my readers have carefully gone through this explanation -with me there is no fear but that they will be able to make and set the -trap--and also catch moles. - -Damp weather, or after a warm shower, is the best time to set these -traps; and as many as twenty or thirty should be systematically set -per day while moles exist and good weather lasts. The straightened -character of the stick will infallibly indicate when the trap is -sprung, and if no mole be caught move it a little farther away, but not -away from the colony entirely, and set again. - -The skins of the moles are in best condition in autumn, and if a -sufficient number be properly cured, and set together by a professional -furrier, a warm and rich garment, either cloak, hat, or waistcoat can -be made. I have a mole-skin waistcoat I have worn for four winters, and -it is far from being worn out yet. Queen Victoria has eight hundred -skins sent annually to Windsor Castle by the Park mole-catcher, for -preparation and making up. I dare say this man catches two or three -thousand moles every year, and yet the number seem not to decline, so -unfailing is the multiplication of these velvety little fellows. - -The professional mole-catcher usually skins his moles in a very summary -manner. Simply passing a very sharp knife round the head, and cutting -off the forefeet, he turns the skin off inside out as I should do -an eel. Indeed, it is a more rapid process than eel-skinning, for I -once had a match with a mole-catcher, which was that I was to skin -six fair-sized eels, while he skinned six moles. I lost, though I am -exceedingly quick with eels, by one eel, much to my annoyance, for -I had loudly boasted of my dexterity. Having skinned his mole as I -described, the mole-catcher then simply stuffs a pledget of hay or -wadding into the skin and leaves it to dry. - -If you have time, however, it is much better to skin the mole by making -an incision down the belly, and taking off the fur as you would do in -the case of a rabbit. It should then be tacked with small tin tacks to -a dry board, the inside toward you, and after removing with a blunt -knife any particles of fat, it should be dressed with a soap made as -follows:--whiting or chalk, 1-1/2 oz.; soft soap, 1 oz.; chloride of -lime, 2 oz. If these ingredients are not handy powdered alum will -serve, though not so well. - -Now, one word in conclusion of this chapter on the mole, and it will -serve as good advice whenever you are trapping. Be quiet; do not go -lumbering all over the ground with the tread of a cart-horse, for it -must be borne in mind that the mole has not only a good perception of -actual sounds, but an exquisite sense of vibration. Like a trout, the -softest tread will in some cases apprise it of danger and cause it to -retire to its citadel. Your object is to catch moles by cutting off -their retreat, for if they are in the central habitation they may not -take the route when next a start is made that you desire and in which -the trap is set. - - - - -II. THE WEASEL, STOAT AND POLECAT. - - -“If we consider the animal creation on a broad scale, the aggregate -of living beings will be found to be the devourers and destroyers of -others.” The editor of Cassel’s Natural History is responsible for this -statement, and it struck me as a forcible and appropriate one for this -chapter on weasels, etc. Without doubt the weasel, next to the rat, -is one of the most destructive of our vermin, preying as it does with -extraordinary ferocity on leverets, chicken, young ducks, pigeons, -rabbits, in fact, on all creatures more timorous than itself. Truly it -is not a very formidable enemy to the farmer in connection with his -granaries and other stores, for it is an inveterate slayer of ruts and -mice, but the gamekeeper cannot tolerate it. Its “treasons, stratagems -and spoils” are, without exception, excessive above all other of the -spoiling mammalia whatsoever. - -Perhaps you doubt the conclusions to which I arrive in reference to -this pretty, brown-backed white-bodied little animal, and there are -some naturalists whose writings seem to clothe it with very different -characteristics. A certain Mademoiselle de Laistre seems to contradict, -in one of her letters, the commonly received opinion that it cannot be -domesticated. She describes with touching minuteness how her weasel -would drink milk out of her hands and fondle with her, showing signs -of satisfaction and enjoyment, which could scarcely be apart from -intelligence. “The little creature,” she says, “can distinguish my -voice amid twenty others, and springs over every one in the room till -it finds me. Nothing can exceed the lively and pleasing way it caresses -me with its two little paws; it frequently pats me on the chin in a -manner that expresses the utmost fondness. This, with a thousand other -kindnesses, convinces me of the sincerity of its attachment. He is -quite aware of my intention when dressed to go out, and then it is with -much difficulty I can rid myself of him. On these occasions he will -conceal himself behind a cabinet near the door and spring on me as I -pass with astonishing quickness.” - -This testimony would seem to rather invest _mustela vulgaris_ with -domestic virtues at least rare in his family, and, sooth to say, there -is a vast crowd of witnesses waiting to be heard, whose report of his -character is far different. The weasel, agile and lithe as he is, is -ferocious to the degree which scorns fear, and there are many instances -wherein he has attacked the absolute viceroy of creation--man. - -I recollect once chasing a weasel with some determination and finding -myself suddenly confronted by some seven or eight others, who ran up my -legs and endeavored to reach my face. Fortunately I beat them off and -killed seven with the stick I carried, but I feel satisfied I should -not have escaped so well if I had not stood my ground and luckily -possessed a stick. - -I have frequently heard of similar experiences, and one I find is -recorded in a cutting from a Scotch newspaper in my scrap-book. - -One night, it appears, the father of Captain Brown, the naturalist, was -returning from Gilmerton, near Edinburgh, by the Dalkeith road. He -observed on the high ground at a considerable distance betwixt him and -Craigmillar Castle a man who was leaping about performing a number of -antic gestures more like those of a madman than of a sane person. After -contemplating this apparently absurd conduct, he thought it might be -some unfortunate maniac, and, climbing over the walls, made directly -towards him. When he got pretty near he saw that the man had been -attacked, and was defending himself against the assaults of a number -of small animals which he at first took for rats, but which, in fact, -turned out on getting closer, to be a colony of from fifteen to twenty -weasels, which the unfortunate man was tearing from him and endeavoring -to keep from his throat. Had he not been a powerful man, capable of -sustaining the extreme fatigue of this singular exertion, he probably -would have succumbed to the repeated efforts made by the ferocious -little creatures to get at his throat. As it was, his hands were much -bitten, and bleeding profusely. - -It further appears that the commencement of the battle was nearly as -follows. He was walking slowly through the park when he happened to -see a weasel. He ran at it, and made several unsuccessful attempts to -strike it with a small cane he held in his hand. On coming near the -rock, he got between it and the animal, and thus cut off retreat. The -weasel squeaked out aloud, when a sortie of the whole colony was made, -and the affray commenced. - -Apropos of this, I have read somewhere of a colony of rats attacking -a condemned criminal in the sewers of Paris--or in a dungeon closely -contiguous--and I can quite believe that hunger and numbers would -render these horrible vermin capable of homicide. - -I do not quite see how any one can pity the members of this weasel -family. Let any one of my boy readers hear the agonized cries of -a pursued rabbit as it finds its relentless foe chasing it with a -determination and persistence quite unequaled, and he will probably -find the American love of fair play prompt him to take the weaker -creature’s part. - -Emphatically I declare it--a weasel never relinquishes its quarry till -the life’s blood has been sucked and the brain extracted and eaten. -Then wasteful as the little tyrant is, the rats may have the remainder, -whilst it seeks for more prey. Its little finger-thick body and black, -venom-leaden eyes seem the incarnation of destructiveness, whilst over -the sharp incisive teeth rows might well be written - - “Ch’entrate lasciate ogni speranza,” - -the terrible epigraph Dante, in his wonderful “Divina Commedia,” saw -inscribed over the portals of the infernal regions. - -Perhaps there is one redeeming feature in all this pitiless ferocity, -and that is the indomitable courage with which the weasel defends its -young against all marauders. It breeds as fast as a rabbit--that is, -two or three, or even more times in a year--and its nest of dried -herbage and undergrowth is generally made in the hollow of some old -tree or wall. Close by the nest may often be found the remains of -putrid mice, rats, birds, etc., which circumstance has suggested to -some naturalists the conclusion that the weasel prefers carrion to -fresh food. This is erroneous. It is true that it hunts, like some -dogs, entirely, or nearly so, by scent, and will even follow the -sightless mole through the interminable windings of its burrow; but -fresh flesh and blood are its delight, and if there be a plentitude -of food it disdains all the grosser parts of its prey with a -fastidiousness worthy of Apicius, the _gourmet_. The weasel generally -produces five or six young ones at a birth. - -[Illustration: Fig. 11.] - -I do not counsel sparing the weasel any more than the rat. The best -place for the gins to be set is underneath a wall whereby the weasel -is known to travel. The best trap unquestionably is the steel trap, or -gin, and the best bait is the inside of a newly-killed rabbit. This -is the concrete essence of my experience. You can scent the bait with -musk, and this addition will often prove of exceeding service. At the -ends of drains, in the hollows of old buildings, in the dry tracts of -ditches, by old trees--all these are likely places and a careful watch -will often discover their tracks. In setting the gin do not allow it -to spring hard as if you expected an elephant of the Jumbo type to -tread on the plate. On the contrary, let it spring very lightly, and -if possible hang the bait up, so that the creature puts a foot on the -plate and so gets caught. A very good sort of trap for open places is a -fall-trap, which may be made at home and is useful for nearly all kinds -of vermin, including even birds (See Fig. 11). Some little explanation -is needed for the complete understanding of this trap. A is a board -hollowed near the letter A to relieve _e_ when the trap falls. B is a -slab of lead or iron cut to admit _a_ and _f_; _h_ is a hinge holding -_c_, which, when adjusted at _g_, impinges on _a_, and so sustains -the slab B. On the little hooks _d_ the bait is fixed, and the weasel -confidently places his foot on _e_. Of course _f_ then springs from -_g_ and down falls the slab, crushing the captive instantly. A stone -slab is quite as useful, if not more so, than lead or iron, and it -is evident that this fall-trap can be set with the greatest ease and -delicacy. - -[Illustration: Fig. 12.] - -The next useful trap is termed “The Fig. 4 Trap,” from its resemblance -to that character, and is shown in the engraving (Fig. 12). This -consists of a large slab of stone, metal, or wood, propped up by three -pieces of wood (A, B and C). If the engraving be carefully examined it -will be seen to consist of a perpendicular A, of a horizontal bar C, -at one end of which is attached the bait D, and of a slanting stick -B. The upright A is usually half an inch square, and cut to a sort of -chisel-shape at top; a notch is also cut in the side of the stretcher -C, as shown in the side diagram _x_, to prevent it slipping down; and -a notch is also cut at the top of B to receive the upright, as well -as in C, to fix it, B being at this latter point of a chisel shape. -It will be obvious to the attentive reader that if this trap be set -carefully, and with a sufficiency of delicacy, a very slight tug at D -will be sufficient to bring down the slab, crushing the animal, or, if -a hollow be made in the ground, imprisoning it. This trap, for nearly -all vermin (of course, except moles), is very cheap and effective; -and for cats--in their wrong places, of course--is remarkably useful, -especially if D represent a sponge, on which tincture of valerian or -oil of rhodium has been sprinkled. One advantage of this trap is that -it is inexpensive, and not likely to be coveted by anybody else. -The gin has, however, preference in my mind over other artificial -traps for weasels, and I counsel all my readers to adopt it as the -surest if their pockets will sustain the initial expense. There is, -however, nothing lost in endeavoring to make your own traps, for such -perseverance implies interest in the pursuit of trapping, and this -necessarily is the central motive towards the acquirement of natural -knowledge. - -There is one method of capturing weasels which I have found very -useful, though it entails the loss of an innocent live bird in many -cases. Form a sort of oblong square with brushwood and close it all -in except two narrow lanes leading to the center, at which point peg -down a young chicken or bird. Set the traps, as closely concealed as -possible at the ends of these lanes, so that neither by ingress nor -egress can the weasel escape without the chance of being caught. Each -trap should be set very lightly, and in some dry ditch near a covert, -or by the side of a wall, or, in fact, in any likely spot recognized by -the trained eye. - -Here is another bad character in the polecat, or foumart, and as it is -the largest of the two, it commonly does most damage, though in saying -this I really am not sure I can place either or them first in this -respect. The weasel and polecat are unmitigated robbers and assassins, -and according to opportunity are given indifferently to bad habits of -the worst character. The polecat is, however, nearly sixteen inches -from that to eighteen inches in length, and its bite is terrific and -sometimes poisonous. Beware, therefore, of it when releasing one caught -in a trap; in fact, as I before impressed on you, “kill it first.” The -body of the polecat has a woolly undercoat of pale yellow, while the -longer hairs are of a deep glossy brown. - -Its habits are very similar to those of the weasel, and it commonly -kills chickens by biting the head off and then sucking the blood, -leaving perhaps a dozen bodies as mementoes of its visitation. I have -known it to catch fish, and I caught one in a trap, set as I supposed -at the time, for an otter. The otter turned out to be a polecat, -however, which measured, exclusive of the tail, fourteen inches. Eels -seemed to be the prey for which it took water, as I had previously -found the remains of several half-eaten on the shore. - -This circumstance was a strange one to me, and altogether exceptional, -until I looked up my natural history books, when I found that Bewick -refers to a similar fact in his “Quadrupeds.” He says:--“During a -severe storm one of these animals was traced in the snow from the side -of a rivulet to its hole at some distance from it.... Its hole was -examined, the foumart taken, and eleven fine eels were discovered as -the fruits of its nocturnal exertions. The marks on the snow were found -to have been made by the motions of the eels while in the creature’s -mouth.” We have no reason for doubting Bewick, but it is certain that -the polecat must have extracted the eels from either beneath stones -or mud, where, during cold weather such as described, it is their -infallible habit to retire in a semi-torpid condition. - -In trapping it use a strong gin, and set very lightly. The baits are -precisely similar to those for the weasel. Be, above all, careful to -use the naked hands as little as possible. - - - - -III. RATS. - - -Rats may, I think, fairly lay claim to being the most mischievous of -all vermin. They are fellows of irreclaimably bad habits, and never -so happy as when devouring or destroying something. Artemus Ward has -placed it on record that “Injins is pisen wherever you meet ’em,” -and the same might be said of rats. In that exquisitely whimsical -poem of Browning’s, “The Pied Piper of Hamelin,” we are told that the -townspeople were plagued emphatically with - - “Rats! - They fought the dogs and killed the cats, - And bit the babies in their cradles, - And ate the cheeses out of the vats, - And licked the soup from the cook’s own ladles. - Split open the kegs of salted sprats, - Made nests inside men’s Sunday hats, - And even spoiled the women’s chats - By drowning their speaking - With shrieking and squeaking - In fifty different sharps and flats.” - -I have not the least doubt but that they did all this and other things -worse; hence I would say with no uncertainty, “Slay all and spare -none,” whenever you get a chance. I do not know of one redeeming -feature in the character of _Mus decumanus_ unless it be good in a pie, -as our friend the Rev. J. G. Wood hints that it is from experimental -trial. - -Hundreds on hundreds of tales relating to its cunning or intelligence -might be cited until you were heartily tired of reading, much less I -of writing. How rats will bite holes in leaden pipes, attack the face -of a sleeping infant--an instance of which I might relate from actual -knowledge--how they devour each other, leaving only the skin turned -inside out as neatly as you could turn a stocking, and last, but far -from least, how they have been trained to perform a drama in pantomime -and various other tricks quite too numerous to refer to here. The rat -is practically omnivorous, and so gets his living where more select -appetites and digestions would starve. “Hit him ’ard, he ain’t a’ got -no friends,” as was said of the pauper boy in “Oliver Twist.” Every -creature’s hand seems turned against him, and we, agreeably to this -bent of nature, will now proceed to compass his destruction by means of -trapping. - -[Illustration: Fig. 8.] - -Unquestionably the best trap is the common iron gin. Everybody knows -what that is like, with its centre plate and formidable rows of teeth -on either side the jaws. I shall therefore spare you a drawing and -description of it, and content myself with simply advising that the -teeth be of the shape shown at Fig. 8--that is, square points fitting -when closed in half circles. Now this form of tooth does not cut -through the limb of the captured animal so readily as the saw-shaped -does, and is preferable on that account. Rats are very prone to gnaw -through a fractured limb and free themselves--they will not do this -nearly so readily, however, if the teeth be of the shape indicated. -This is also the best shape for the capture of other vermin, as we -shall see as these chapters proceed. - -[Illustration: Fig. 9.] - -In all cases a chain about eighteen inches is attached by means of an S -hook in the gin. A swivel should be placed about the middle, and a ring -of about an inch and a quarter should terminate it. A good stout stake, -about eighteen inches long, is also necessary, and ash is particularly -recommendable if it can be procured. If it be trimmed when cut, like -Fig. 9, so that a short piece of branch keeps the ring from slipping -off, so much the better. Another tool which is ever useful when gins -are being set (and that will be pretty frequent with the vermin I shall -speak about) is a hammer shaped something like Fig. 10. You will see -that it has a broad, hatchet-like form to it instead of the claws of -an ordinary hammer, and this is for cutting into the earth, separating -roots, etc. In twenty ways it comes in useful, so I advise my readers -to get one made after this pattern. - -[Illustration: Fig. 10.] - -Be careful in setting your trap to keep your fingers well away from -the teeth, and to do this observe the following method. Place your -right foot upon the spring firmly, and as the jaws fall back, quickly -lift the catch over with your right hand; then, without relaxing -pressure, raise the plate of the trap from underneath until it allows -of the catch to meet the nick in the plate. Set them lightly or hard, -according to the animal to be trapped. Experience will soon enable you -to judge how this should be for a rat. A fine sieve is generally used -by trappers to sift dirt over the trap when set, but you can dispense -with this if you wear gloves. In rat-trapping, by the by, always wear -thick gloves; rats can smell you infallibly. - -You can easily detect a rat-run, and quite as easily tell if it be -fresh or not, by noticing the appearance of the excrement. Having -determined on a fresh run, endeavor so to set your trap that the catch -shall be light, and the whole affair completely hidden from sight, the -pan or plate being baited with whatever seems to have been the recent -food, or food most likely to be got near by the run. For rats in runs -where they come to feed, by walls, rick-sides, or places at which they -appear most, the traps should be set. When the run appear stale or not -much used, they should be shifted to other places. For rats a great -variety of baits may be used, but the best is generally something like -what they are in the habit of feeding upon on farm premises; grain, -with sufficient chaff or cut hay to cover the bottom, meal mixed with -sweet broth or small bits of meat. Rats may be enticed with oils of -aniseed, thyme, and rhodium, and when traps are new and smell of the -shop a few drops should be rubbed inside the bottom of the traps to -take the other smell away. By using a drag of these oils, rubbed on a -herring or a piece of clean rag, rats may be enticed a long way. - -A capital bait for old poaching rats--such as would not hesitate to -kill your spring chickens or young rabbits--is the drawing of game of -any sort, or the young of pigeons or young birds. I have also found -the following a capital dodge to enable one to overcome the cunning -of an old buck rat. Get some sprats and pound them. Put them in glass -bottles and cork and seal, and hang them up in the sun for three weeks -or so, or put them on a dung-hill of moderate heat. This will entirely -decompose and resolve them into an oily substance exceedingly bad -smelling. Pour some of this on a rag and drag it about from a common -center where the trap is, and indeed it is well to drag it after one -as the traps are seen to successively. The trap bait should be roasted -salt fish. A kippered herring does famously, and a few drops of oil of -aniseed can be put on the bait. I have known this to be exceedingly -successful. - -A similar sort of treatment is necessary for the water-rat. There is, -however, but little necessity to use baits if the trap be set under -water at the spot where the creature emerges. The precise place can be -easily seen, and its freshness or staleness as a “run” be determined -in the same way as that of a brown rat. The water-rat is easily -distinguished from its cousin the brown by the tail of the former being -covered with hair and that of the latter with scales, of which there -are 200 rows. It must not be supposed, however, because the water-rat -derives its living from the water chiefly that it is not a destructive -creature inland. A very interesting writer says: “We have seen -water-rats cross a wide meadow, climb the stalks of the dwarf beans, -and after detaching the pods with their teeth, shell the beans in a -most woman-like manner.” They are also said to mount vines and feed on -grapes, and I can verify that they are fond of plums from the following -incident: - -Between my study window and the margin of a stream at the foot of -my garden stand two tall trees of the bullace plum, and this year -they have been unusually full of fruit. I placed a ladder against -one of the trees in order to pick the plums, but rain or some other -interference prevented my doing so at the intended time; thus the -ladder remained for some days. Now I have a large tabby cat, and -besides a good rat-killer she is fond of birds, and strangely enough -will climb trees and spring at a bird within reach, in nine cases out -of ten falling to the ground with her captive in her mouth. As I sat -writing one morning Tabby mounted her coign of vantage by means of the -ladder, and scaled to the topmost height, enjoying the sunshine, and -not, I fancy, on this occasion waiting for prey. However, good things -come when least expected, and presently Tabby and I both beheld a -large water-rat--unseen by the latter, of course--approach the ladder, -and after peering slyly round, began to mount it, which he did with -remarkable agility. On reaching the first large branch he stepped on -it, and without the least hesitation made for a cluster of the plums -and began his feast. I told you Tabby saw him as well as I, and I would -have given much too if she had not. As Mr. Rat sat absorbed with his -back to her, like a jungle leopard, creeping with silent certainty on -its innocent, unsuspecting prey, Tabby slowly approached, and the -steadfast glare in her greenish eyes was full of a deadly purpose, -which gathered strength as she progressed. Presently, when within three -feet of the still gourmandizing rat, her fell purpose culminated in -a terrific but unerring spring, which tumbled rat and cat out of the -tree to the ground. Habet! alas! he had it, and after a few terrific -crunches of her jaws Tabby rose from the body proudly, with swinging -tail and a victorious air, which as plainly as language conveyed -infinite self-complacency at the death-dealing deed. - -These rats are more clever in boring their tunnels than the brown -species, resembling, in fact, the ingenuity of the mole rather than the -rat. They are much more cleanly also. Should you get an apple or pear -or melon which has been bitten by a brown rat you will instantly detect -it by its peculiar musty odor and taste. The water-rat is, on the -contrary, a much more cleanly animal, and its flesh is not uncommonly -eaten by the French peasants on _maigre_ days. It breeds in the spring, -and again in autumn if the spring litter be very early, bringing forth -five or six at a time. The nest is usually by the side of a river or -stream. In the roots of an old willow tree just opposite my house -I found six nests this year. Not that these rats will not at times -build away from the water. I know of several instances, as a neighbor -was plowing in a dry, chalky field, far removed from any water, he -turned out a water rat that was curiously laid up in an _hybernaculum_ -artificially formed of grass and leaves. At one end lay about a gallon -of potatoes, regularly stowed, on which it was to have supported itself -for the winter. - -When a rat is caught in a gin always be careful to keep your hand at a -distance on releasing it. In fact, do not let it go at all, but kill -it at once. I do not like the idea of letting a suffering animal be -farther tormented by dogs, or even cats. There can be no true sport in -it except, perhaps, to the savage instincts of the dog, and why a human -being should find cruel sport for a dog I cannot tell you. - -The other species, the black rat (_Mus rattus_), is perhaps a more -ancient importation even than the brown. It is, however, scarcer -than either of the others. Its colors are grayish black above and -ash-colored, and beneath it is about seven and a half inches long when -full grown. - -Ferrets are often employed to aid in exterminating the brown rat. The -ferret is of no use whatever for the water-rat, though it is certainly -extremely useful when barns, wood-heaps, and such like erections -are infested. The gun is the thing, in the hands of an experienced -sportsman, to kill them as the ferrets force them to leave their homes, -but a few sharp dogs and a half dozen sharp school-fellows with sticks -will produce very certain destruction. Be careful not to mistake -the head of a ferret coming out of a hole for that of a rat, as once -happened to me in this wise. I was staying at a farm-house, and it was -proposed one fine December morning to try an hour or two’s ferreting. -My school chum, with whom I was staying, possessed some very tame and -good working ferrets, one in particular, a fine brownish dog ferret, by -which he set great store. The great wheat barn was to be laid siege to, -and he being a good shot and older than I, took down his gun and loaded -it preparatory to starting. - -“Jack,” said he to me, “you can shoot, can’t you?” I was but fourteen -then and a school boy, and I fear I answered rather too readily and -without sufficient modesty, “Oh, yes; have you a gun to spare?” Yes, he -had a single-barrel pretty little weapon, and, proud as a cock-robin, I -sallied forth, on mighty shots intent. “Now,” said he, with emphasis, -“stand here; watch that hole, and as soon as you see the _whole_ of a -rat’s body fire away, but be careful not to kill a ferret, which you -may easily do if you fire too hastily.” I recollect I rather scorned -the idea of mistaking a ferret for a rat, and with steadfast attention -prepared to kill the first of the rodents that appeared. It seemed an -age, and then one swiftly popped his head out and bolted past me, my -fire hitting the ground at least a yard behind him. How savage I was! -not to speak of the half sneers of my companions. Next time I would be -ready. Ah! there was a slight movement in the hole, a small nose poked -itself out and then disappeared. I pointed the gun straight for the -hole. Out it came again, and then a brown head swiftly appeared. Bang! -Hurrah! I had killed him. Round came the boys. “Well done,” said my -friend Ted, as he stooped to draw out the murdered wretch. “Why, you -duffing idiot, you’ve killed my best dog ferret!” Moral, do not jump at -conclusions. - - - - -IV. THE OTTER. - - -The otter is one of the most graceful of living creatures, but as a -fisherman and fishculturist, I candidly confess that I look on him as a -detestable nuisance on my river. What says the poet! - - “Nor spears - That bristle on his back defend the perch - From his wide, greedy jaws; nor burnished mail - The yellow carp; nor all his arts can save - Th’ insinuating eel, that hides his head - Beneath the slimy mud; nor yet escapes - The crimson-spotted trout, the river’s pride - And beauty of the stream.” - -This is a faithful picture of the otter’s remorseless and predacious -nature. I caught one the other day in an eel-grate, whither he had -doubtless gone for the eels. The biter was, however, bit, for the rush -of water was too powerful, and on opening the door in the morning I -found him dead and stiff. - -The otter usually kills many more fish than it actually wants for -food, and as otters generally hunt in pairs, it is not uncommon to -find in the morning as many as thirteen or fourteen prime trout--in an -ordinarily plentiful river, of course--killed and only partly eaten. -Like the lord mayor’s jester, however, the otter knows what is good, -or, indeed, best, for it eats away the shoulders of the fish, leaving -the rest to rot or be devoured by rats. - -I have said it is graceful, and so it is, in a remarkable degree. -Let me advise you, if you live in New York, to visit the Zoological -Gardens, in Central Park, and watch the fine sinuous turns and sweeps -as the otter seizes or seeks for its prey. Its body is long and -flexible, and its feet short and webbed, and the adjacent muscles are -of immense muscular power. Its eyes are large, the ears short, and it -is bewhiskered like a Viking. Its coat is double, like that of the -seal. Long glossy hairs form the outer one, and a short waterproof -woolly waistcoat comprises the inner, so that neither cold nor wet -can affect the well-being of this amphibious hunter. In the daytime -it hides itself in its hole, which usually is some feet deep in the -bank, _above_ highwater mark, but at night its depredations commence; -and when the female has young, say five, and the male otter works with -her, as he generally does, I estimate that from thirty to forty fish -per night are, if anything, rather within the number than beyond. Can -any one deny, therefore, that the otter comes within the common-sense -definition of vermin? - -If the otter be taken young, and great kindness and care be shown it, -it may be transferred from the category of vermin into that of “pets,” -and I do not think there is a much more interesting pet in existence, -and I recollect one which used to run about after its master at Eton, -England, some years since. A friend of mine (head river-keeper on a -nobleman’s estate) took a tame one from an old poacher which the latter -had constantly employed to catch fish and bring to him. My friend -tells me that when he caught the poacher he had some sixty fine trout, -scarcely injured, in a bag, all of which had been captured by the otter. - -There are many instances of a similar character referred to in the -natural history books which I cannot produce here. It is sufficient -to say that otter-taming, and even the utilizing of the creature for -fishing purposes, is by no means uncommon. - -The otter is usually hunted with dogs of a particular breed, but I -shall not attempt to describe this species of sport in this place. -There are those who object to hunting on principle, and I am not -bigoted enough to say they are altogether wrong. Certain, however, -it is that otter hunting is remarkably exhilarating, and there is a -great deal of fun to be got out of the mishaps which are sure to ensue -to the hunters as they scamper and splash and rush and dash over the -bowlders, through bush and brier and stream and rivulet, till the wily -brute is either caught or “kenneled.” So far as we are now concerned, -I shall content myself with telling you how to trap this vermin of the -water, and if ever you become possessed of a stream or lake of fish do -not forget that the otter is your chiefest enemy--excepting the human -poacher, of course. - -Now we will presume you are one morning early taking a walk by the side -of your favorite stream. On each side the willows and alders bend over -the water and their roots clutch the banks with rugged fingers, forming -coverts for rats, moorhens, dabchicks, and other small fry, as well as -for the quiet-loving trout. - -Presently, as you attentively note these features, you are aware of -a sort of footpath proceeding from the stream, and on looking closer -you notice that fresh excrement has been left and that footprints of -a dog-like animal are to be seen in the soft earth. Follow this trail -and perchance, ere many steps have been taken, you come upon the -carmine-spotted body of a two-pound trout, minus head and shoulders, or -a pound silver eel with its broadest part eaten away. You now know that -an otter has been at work, and you must vow that he shall die. But how? -Listen. The track is fresh. Good! Procure the largest rabbit-gin you -can, and after attaching it firmly to a stake driven under water, drive -two more sticks under water exactly where the otter comes ashore, and -set it upon them. Do not bait the trap at all, or the otter will not -come near, but simply set it under water, so that when his ottership -comes to bank with his ill-gotten booty he puts his foot on the plate -of the gin. A good plan also, where this one is not practicable, is to -carefully cut up a sod of dirt in the pathway of the otter, and set -the gin very gingerly, covering it up completely with short grass and -a sprinkling of dirt. In any case use gloves, so that your hands are -not smelt, for, strange as it may seem in an animal getting its food by -sight, the sense of smell is exquisitely developed in the otter. When -caught be very careful not to handle him. His teeth are “orful.” - -Daniel, in his “Rural Sports,” says “the trap must be set in and -covered with mud to prevent the otter seeing it. The instant the trap -strikes, the otter plunges into the water with it, when its weight -preventing his rising to the surface soon destroys him.” But I incline -to my own plan in preference. Of course, if the “spoor,” “spraint,” or -“seal” cannot be seen it is advisable to set several traps at intervals -along the bank, covering them lightly with moss. - - - - -V. THE SQUIRREL. - - -At the commencement of this series of articles I referred to the -squirrel, and quoted the words in which Mr. Ruskin describes his -unbounded admiration for this sprightly little fellow. The squirrel -has a very voracious appetite, however, and if he once by accident or -design tastes the luscious richness of pheasant or partridge egg he -becomes a poacher of very extreme character. Game-keepers do not object -to squirrels as a rule, as long as they confine themselves to those -parts of a covert where game are not, though in the case of largely -stocked preserves these parts are not easily found. - -When Master “Squiggy,” however, takes to sucking eggs and teaching his -grandmother and uncles, aunts and cousins, to do the same, then it -becomes a manifest duty to snare him and take him away if you do not -kill him. Of course it is not likely that my boy readers will be called -upon to assist professionally in such a proceeding, but I will briefly -describe how squirrels may be caught alive, for when removed from the -place of mischief they make capital pets after a time of patience and -taming. - -[Illustration: Fig. 1.] - -It is necessary for two to embark in the proceedings that follow. One -is the climber, and he, I need scarcely say, should be a tolerably good -one. A pair of climbing irons are almost indispensable, and I should -certainly advise boys to get them. He is also provided with a long pole -with a loop of fine twisted brass wire attached to it (Fig. 1). - -Now let us term these two warriors A and B. Having spotted a squirrel -and observed him run up a tree, A attaches his irons and prepares to -climb. Before this is done B stands beneath the tree and attracts the -squirrel’s attention, and keeps his eye fixed on him, B never moving -from where he stands. Meanwhile A is gradually approaching from behind -the squirrel, and when he is near enough he slips the loop over the -creature’s head, gives a sharp wrench, and lets the pole, squirrel, and -all drop to the ground to be secured by B. Of course the squirrel is -almost choked, but a firm hand in a thick leather glove soon releases -the frightened animal, and you have to do with him as your pleasure -will. You ought to take a bag with you and instantly pop him into it. -This is the way the men catch squirrels in the country, and is far -better than trapping them so as to cause pain. - -I have thus told you how to catch squirrels without materially hurting -them, and I suppose I may as well tell you how to keep them. Well, -having caught the lively young gentleman, keep him in the dark for a -day or two, only occasionally letting him get a glance of the outer -world. Feed him during this period with beechnuts, chestnuts, and by -all means let him have plenty of water. After a time you may take -away all covering from his cage and let him, like yourself, enjoy the -glories of the sunlight. In a very short space of time his captivity -will cease to be so irksome, especially if for the first week or two -you use him to only seeing yourself near. - -The squirrel, or at least the common red one of our forest, seems -remarkably intelligent, and its humors vary almost as much in -comparison as those of a child. I kept four, having brought them up -from the nest, and their antics and different moods were a source of -continued amusement. Sometimes Tom would quarrel with a sort of mimic -anger with Jill, and Jim and Sam were almost continually finding fault -with each other over poor unfortunate Lady Jill, whose chief misfortune -seemed to be that she preferred Tom to either of the others. The -affection seemed to be returned, for if we gave a piece of potato to -Tom he instantly passed it over to Jill and shared it. Sometimes entire -good-humor would prevail, when the gambols with each other were a very -pretty sight. This was generally on a fine sunny spring morning after a -good meal of nuts. The cage was large, and a sort of leap-frog was kept -up for half an hour, ending by somebody getting Tom’s temper out over -Miss Jill. I never had a bite from either, and this I attribute to my -never handling them unnecessarily, and never being afraid to take hold -of them carefully but firmly. - -Their end was a sad one. I acquired a splendid Persian cat, and the -strangeness of a new habitation made Miss Pussy very spiteful and -bad-tempered. One day I had turned out the four squirrels in order -to clean the cage thoroughly, and they as usual betook themselves out -of the window. With a sudden bound Puss had poor Jill, and with one -scrunch she was dead. Puss then bounded after the others, and they -escaping up a large yew tree I lost sight of all but one forever. What -ultimately became of Jim and Sam I never knew, but Tom would often -show himself in the tree and look down with eyes which seemed to say -mournfully, “Ah, you’ve killed my little wife between you, and I’m -not such a coon as to trust myself within range of her murderers.” -Shortly after this we removed, and thus ended my squirrel-keeping, not, -however, without much regret on my side at least. - - - - -VI. BIRD TRAPPING. - - -Bird-catching has always a fascination for boys, and, indeed, in my -opinion, as a harmless but most interesting pastime, it may be compared -not unfavorably with fishing. - -“But,” I hear some one say, “is it not cruel to catch and imprison or -kill our pretty feathered friends, and if so, is it not wrong to teach -boys cruelty?” I answer emphatically “No” to the first of these, and -that reply does away with the other question. - -It is not cruel to catch the hawk that preys on kindred species, as -does the shark or pike, or the beautiful kingfisher that ruthlessly -slaughters your innocent baby trout, or the weird and ghostly heron, -whose insatiable maw will ever cry, “Give! Give!” like the daughters of -the horseleech, from every inhabited stream, or the bad-mannered crow, -or the mischievous jay with his egg-eating proclivities. - -Then there are some birds, such as pigeons, blackbirds, thrushes, -redwings and plovers, and the water-fowl, such as moorhens, widgeon, -teal, ducks, etc., which are excellent eating, and who shall say that -to kill and eat necessarily implies cruelty? - -“But about the pretty song-birds?” you say. Well, now, what bird -is happier in captivity than your consequential cock bullfinch, or -merry-voiced chaffinch? And are there more annoying birds in existence -to those who live by the soil? If you doubt me, go and ask the gardener -and hear what he says about Chaffy’s and Bully’s work on the fruitbuds. -Then remember what present pleasure the joyous song of the well-fed and -warmly-caged linnet or siskin gives to all; but perchance most of all -to some one whose hours are spent wearily on the bed of pain. - -Of course, catching birds for the mere sake of doing it is wrong, and -pray is not fishing liable to the same objection? To go out for the -mere purpose of bringing home lots of fish, which are afterwards put -to no use, is an abuse of an otherwise harmless sport to which such -great and good men as Izaak Walton, Sir Henry Wotton, Archbishop Paley, -Charles Kingsley, Mr. John Bright, and many others, have been and are -devoted. - -Besides, the methods I shall explain, except for the larger birds of -prey--_vermin_, in fact--need cause no pain to the captured bird, or -if it does, only of the most instant character, which is over when the -bird is dead or caged. The wildest birds require only proper treatment -to render them happy in confinement, and of this fact I was never more -forcibly convinced than when, visiting a very experienced bird-catcher -the other day, I saw a huge tabby tom-cat reposing in the cage of a -cock gold-finch, whose sweet song must have lulled the cat to sleep and -a forgetfulness of its fierce destroying instincts. Hearing it sing, I -could not help recalling Walton’s pious and beautiful reflection anent -the nightingale: “Lord, what music hast Thou provided for Thy saints in -heaven when Thou affordest bad men such music on earth!” - -Finally, in defense of the bird catcher’s art, let me urge the benefit -young people derive from an intimate knowledge of the natural history -of birds and their surroundings. As in fishing the best naturalist in -fish is invariably the best angler, so whether he be scientific or not, -the best ornithologist is, by virtue of his knowledge, inevitably the -most successful bird-catcher. Nothing can conduce to an unaffected love -of nature--the “time vesture” of God, Carlyle terms it--more readily -than close observation of the habits, instincts, and intelligences of -the creatures over which man has been given dominion. - -Birds, the flight of which man, with all his mechanical ingenuity, had -never yet been able to imitate, are of the most beautiful and wonderful -of these, and their capture within the limits I have laid down is a -pastime at once innocent, amusing, instructive and profitable. One word -more. Be gentle boys, and then presently become gentle_men_ in the true -sense of the word, and handle each captive, if it be alive, mercifully, -“as if you loved him,” inflicting no unnecessary pain or discomfort in -any wise. - -Having then in some sort justified bird-catching, if indeed this -was needed, let me say how I intend treating the subject in the few -following chapters. First, with your attention, I will refer to -bird-catching by net; secondly, catching birds by bird-lime; and -thirdly, trapping birds, which latter division will embrace the various -use of the springs, traps, snares, gins, etc., in vogue amongst -professional trappers, game-keepers and others. As the directions -will be severely practical, any one will be able to succeed from -them--assuming, of course, he has the requisite patience. There is -one thing, however, to be borne in mind, that is--there is a Wild -Birds’ Preservation Act, which, inefficient and muddling as it is, is -nevertheless the law of the land, and in it a close time is provided, -during which bird-catching is illegal. - - - - -VII. BIRD-CATCHING BY NET. - - -There are several sorts of nets used for various species of birds, but -for song birds the most common is termed the clap-net, of which Fig. 1 -is an outline representation. In looking carefully at it you will see -I have left one side without netting; this, however, should of course -have a net; consider, therefore, the two sides as similar to that on -which the net is shown. - -[Illustration: Fig. 1.] - -Now the net from which the drawing was taken was somewhat different -from the usual kind. Those ordinarily used are of twine, and netted -diagonally with mesh three quarter inches. - -This one, however, if of silk undressed fishing line, and of half-inch -mesh, netted with a square mesh instead of diamond-shape or diagonal. -At each end of it are attached jointed poles which fit in each other -like joints of a fishing-rod; these are when put together six feet six -inches in length, but the net itself is broader to allow of a certain -amount of bagging. - -If this were not so the birds would be liable to run along underneath -the net and escape, whereas as now arranged they entangle themselves in -the soft silk meshes. Of course silk is not necessary, but it is best -if expense is no object. A twine net will do very well for boys, and -if they have mastered the instructions for netting they need have no -difficulty in making their own. - -The engraving, if carefully looked into, explains itself, but I will, -to further elucidate the matter, tell you how it is laid. First, bear -in mind the net in the cut is now placed on the ground as it should -be laid; this is how to do it. Place both nets spread out as shown, -roughly on the ground (you can measure their proper relative distances -afterward), and drive in the farthest peg (_i. e._, farthest from -bird-catcher), to which is attached both the “top” and “bottom” line -(see cut). Let this peg be firmly driven in, for on it the chief strain -falls. Now plant the peg at the end of the jointed pole farthest from -the bird-catcher (E). The pole is linked to this peg either by means -of two staples or loops of rope attached to both in such a way as to -act as a hinge. Now stretch the bottom between the two jointed poles -as shown, driving the peg in firmly as before. Finally plant the peg -_nearest_ E, having stretched the bottom line tightly throughout. - -Measure now a space of width sufficient to allow the two nets when -drawn over toward each other to fall, covering their _top_ edges about -six inches with each other. Thus, as in the cut, if the net be six feet -six inches broad you must allow twelve feet six inches between them. -Having done this, fix the other net in a manner precisely similar to -its fellow. C on the engraving, as can be seen, is the pull-line, and -it is joined as is shown to a line stretching at right angles between -the four top line ends of the jointed poles. The effect of pulling this -is to bring the nets up and over, both falling in the twelve feet six -inches space, and thus inclosing anything within that space. The birds -are enticed by the cage-birds in the first instance (see cut), and -finally by the play-birds perched on the play-stick (B). - -[Illustration: Fig. 2.] - -The play-bird is a bird of the same kind as those sought to be -captured, which is attached by means of miniature harness (to be -presently shown) to the play-stick, and it being comparatively free it -proves very attractive (see Fig. 2). C is the bird. This stick is of -three parts: A, a piece of wood made like Fig. 3; and B, a piece of -brass tubing beaten flat at one end and placed on the stick, which may -be a hazel or ash twig. A hole is punctured through this tube, and a -peg passed through it holds it in its place, as well as serving as an -axle on which its movements work as prompted by the play-line, which -passes also through A, as shown in Fig. 2. - -[Illustration: Fig. 3.] - -I have said the bird is harnessed and tethered to the stick at C (Fig. -2). This harnessing is perfectly painless to the little fellow, and -consists of a sort of double loop affixed to a swivel (Fig. 6). The -head of the bird is passed through and the loops are drawn down over -and round its wings close to the body. Of course they are drawn and -tied just tight enough to fit the body, and the swivel is attached; -then a piece of fine twine of about a foot and a half in length -connects the play-bird with its stick. The method of using this bird -is as follows: Directly the call-birds--which are cock birds in full -song--have attracted others of their species, the bird-catcher gently -pulls the play line, raising and lowering the stick. This prompts the -play-bird to use its wings in a perfectly natural manner, and the -consequence is, the wild birds becoming bolder at seeing one of their -brethren so apparently unrestrained, venture in the forbidden space, -and with no fear visible at once proceed to exchange civilities. As -soon as the bird-catcher observes the bird well in the reach of the -nets, he pulls swiftly and strongly at C (Fig. 1), and the nets close -over both the play or decoy bird and those he has innocently lured to -their captivity. Now this in no case injures them, and running up, -the bird-catcher places them in a large airy cage opening inwards, -and commonly covers them over with a cloth, lest in the first moments -of restraint they injure themselves against the bars. Two or more -play-birds should be used, so that not one may be over-tired. - -[Illustration: Fig. 6.] - -Thus you have the whole apparatus of “clap”-netting and its use -explained. Now for a few hints as to where to set a net. First, do not -forget to mark the habits of the birds yourself, and so learn where to -find them at all seasons. Larks and linnets are easily found in open -plains and by water brooks, goldfinches come in autumn to feed off the -thistledown, starling swarm as winter comes on and are met with in all -sorts of pastures where some growth of underwood or deciduous trees -are found. For shy birds let your full line be quite forty yards long; -and a good plan for blackbirds, starlings, and other wary birds is to -lay your nets and get behind a hedge or other hiding-place. A little -ingenuity in this way will often procure a goodly stroke of success. -The other morning after a frost I caught fourteen blackbirds close to a -long laurel hedge, hiding myself in a large rhododendron. - -Sometimes hawks, and even birds of a non-preying but quite different -species to your call-bird, are caught in the clap-net. The former -usually pounces down upon or near the poor little play-bird, and thus -the biter is bitten. “Serve him right,” say you; so say I. The other -birds are probably only curious to know what it is all about. - -This kind of net is the best for amateurs, and I shall therefore not -describe that sort which is used by professionals for lark and other -birds at night time, often, I am sorry to say, when it is illegal, and -when partridges and pheasants can be taken. Kingfishers may be caught -by stretching a fine net loosely across an archway of a stream on which -they are known to be, and sparrows may be taken in any numbers from old -thatches, barn, rick, etc., at night in the following manner: - -Stretch your net on two cane poles and let two people carry it upright; -another holds a lantern at about the middle of this net on the outer -side from the barn to be “netted.” Let another, taking a long pole, -buffet about the interior under the eaves and in the nooks and -corners; the birds will then fly out and make for the light, only to -be entangled in the net. Beating the hedgerows at night will produce -the same effect; and, let me tell you, sparrow pudding is not to be -despised. - -Water-birds, such as dabchicks, moorhens, and even ducks, may be -taken by means of nets stretched across ditches and “drawns” which -they frequent. I have especially been successful with those little -nuisances of the fish culturist, the dabchick, or dapper as they are -called in some places, by means of a common dragnet, which I use for -trout catching in spawning time, but as my readers have already the -facilities I have in this direction, I need not say more about that -style of netting. - - - - -VIII. BIRD-CATCHING WITH TRAPS. - - -The word “trap” in the title of this book is intended to be made use -of in a somewhat wide and also narrow sense. Under it I shall include -what would otherwise be called a snare--namely, the “springe,” or -“springle.” On the other hand I shall make use of it in what may seem -a rather restricted sense, inasmuch as that I do not intend to tell -you how to catch birds by means of the “gin,” or steel trap. Mind -you, there are some birds--such as the magpie and crow--which it is -almost impossible to catch in any other manner. For them the deadly, -pain-dealing “gin” is justifiable. For the use of boys, I do not, -however, recommend it in bird-catching; it always maims if it does not -kill outright, and thus, should any of you desire to stuff the bird you -have captured, its injured plight is much against its appearance. - -The springe, as many of you know, is a horse-hair loop fixed to some -immovable object, such as the branch of a tree, etc. Mr. Montagu Brown, -in his “Practical Taxidermy,” thus describes the making of it. “Here,” -he says, “I have a black horsehair about two feet long; I double it, -holding it between the right hand finger and thumb, leaving a little -loose loop about half an inch long; from this point I proceed by an -overhand motion of the thumb to twist it up. On reaching the bottom I -make a small knot to prevent it unrolling, then pushing the knotted end -through the eye of the loop, I thus form a loose noose. I then attach -a piece of wire to the free end by a twisted loop (Fig. 7). With about -half a dozen of these coiled in an oval tin box I am ready to snare any -small bird whose haunt I may discover.” - -[Illustration: Fig. 7.] - -This springe is varied in a variety of ways, but it is remarkably -deadly for nearly all birds. The piece of wire is of course twisted -round a branch or other fixed point, and the noose, for such it is, is -so arranged that the bird pecks through it, and so gets “haltered.” -I always make my springes of silkworm gut, used in fishing, as being -stronger and practically invisible. - -Ducks, moorhens, and dabchicks can be caught with nooses or springes -made of a sufficient number of hairs or strands of gut, and suspended -to a line fixed across the ditches and small streams they are known to -frequent. A springe mounted as shown in Fig. 8 (A in 9) can also be -fixed in the ground, with the noose hanging over the probable spot of -emergence from the water of either of these birds. Their exact “run” -can easily be determined by the freshness of the excrement. Snipes are -to be taken by simply attaching the springe to a bullet and burying -this in the soft oose or mud where snipe are known to feed or run. -Plovers can be taken in a similar way. - -[Illustration: Fig. 8.] - -On the Continent, according to Mr. Box, the following is the method -of using the springe for the capture of thrushes and such birds. The -springes being made, the snarer cuts as many twigs about eighteen -inches in length as he intends hanging springes. There are two methods -of hanging them--in one the twig is bent in the form of figure 6, the -tail end running through a slit cut in the upper part of the twig. The -other way is to sharpen a twig at both ends, and insert the points into -a stem of underwood, thus forming a bow, of which the stem forms the -string below the springe, and hanging from the lower part of the bow is -placed a small branch with three or four berries of the mountain-ash; -this is fixed to the bow by inserting the stalk into a slit in the wood. - -The bird-catcher is provided with a basket, one compartment of which -holds his twigs, bent or straight, another his berries; his springes -being already attached to the twigs, he very rapidly drives his knife -into a lateral branch, and fixes them, taking care that the springe -hangs neatly in the middle of the bow, and that the lower part of -the springe is about three fingers’ breadth from the bottom. By this -arrangement the bird, alighting on the lower side of the bow, and -bending his neck to reach the berries below, places his head in the -noose, finding himself obstructed in his movements, attempts to fly -away, but the treacherous noose tightens around his neck, and he is -found by the sportsman hanging by the neck, a victim of misplaced -confidence. - -[Illustration: Fig. 9.] - -Another adaptation of the springe is shown at Fig. 9. It consists of -a wand of hazel, willow, or any other suitable wood, which is set in -the ground firmly. A short piece of string, hair, or gut connects it -with a cross piece of wood, and to this string also several (two or -more) horse-hair or gut springes are attached, set in precisely the -same manner as shown in Fig. 8. A in Fig. 9 is a piece of wood which -is so cut as to present an arm at right angles to the perpendicular. -This piece of wood is driven in the ground and the wand bent over; -the cross-piece is now placed to the edge of the arm of A, and there -retained as “ticklishly” as possible. - -On this fine setting everything depends. Now get some short grass and -cover up the cross-piece at A, so that it cannot be seen, then arrange -your hair springes on the surface, and strew some crumbs or grains of -rice, wheat, etc. The bird will settle on the cross-piece or on A, and -peck at the crumbs, etc., and then will be caught by the legs or head. -I have had excellent results with this. - -Another springle shown at Fig. 10 is a remarkably good one for -moorhens, or, in fact, any bird having a run, for the description of -which quote “Practical Trapping,” by Moorman (though, indeed, I believe -he got his description from Doucie’s “Rural Sports”). “The wand, or -spring-stick,” he says, “cross-piece and nooses as before, but instead -of the simple crutch use a complete bow with both ends stuck in the -ground. At some distance from this drive in a straight piece of stick; -next procure a piece of stick with a complete fork or crutch at one -end. To set it draw down the spring-stick and pull the cross-piece -under the bow by the top side farthest from the spring-stick. Now hold -it firmly with one hand while you place the forked stick with its -crutch pressing against the opposite upright stick and bring its free -end against the lower end of the cross-piece, and adjust as firmly as -you can. Finally arrange the nooses in such a manner that if one of -them or the crutched stick is touched the latter falls, and releasing -the cross-piece the spring-stick flies up and the bird with it.” (A) -indicates the cross-piece, (B) the forked stick, (C) the adjustment. -(Fig. 10). - -[Illustration: Fig. 10.] - - - - -IX. BIRD-CATCHING WITH TRAPS, ETC. - - -Yet another of the springle traps which I have seen used with very -great success for the capture of flesh-eating birds is shown in Fig. -11. A and B are two sapling oak or ash-trees, growing near each other. -Two holes are bored in A with a large gimlet; at C, in B, a wire loop -is attached, and the loop E is passed through the upper perforation, -as shown. At D a piece of cord with a round knot in it is passed -through after B is bent toward A. F is a piece of wood, the point of -which is shaped like a blunt cone, and this is sustained on the knot -in the position shown by the spring of B, being similar, in fact, to -the tongue of a wooden mole-trap, shown in a previous number. On this -piece of wood is tied a fresh lump of meat, or a pigeon’s egg may be -blown and stuck on. Indeed, any bait may be used, providing it is not -too heavy. The bird, of course, pecks strongly at it through the loop -E, and is instantly caught, or if it attempts to alight, which is often -the case, the noose catches it alive by the legs. My drawing is a rough -one, but sufficiently explains what is meant. - -[Illustration: Fig. 11.] - -I have thus given a brief sketch of what boys can do in bird-catching -with no more expense than a few cents--if we except the net, and that -need not cost much if one is disposed to make it. There are many other -traps which are variously successful. There is, for example, the -trap-cage, which contains on one side a decoy bird, and a very useful -one it is, and easily procured from a bird-fancier. Then there is the -old sieve and string and brick trap, about which no boy needs to be -told. I have taken twenty and thirty wild fowl in a night by baiting -with pieces of sheep’s lights or lungs a large eel-hook. Then again for -kingfishers there is a round spring-trap, which catches them by the -legs, and is cruel therefore. Herons may be taken on a baited hook--the -bait-fish, of course. When all is said and done, however, for general -bird-catching, where sport and not torture is the means here set forth -are decidedly the most satisfactory. - -First and foremost, however, if you would be successful, take this -practical counsel to yourself. Study the natures and habits of the -birds; the droppings and footprints will always indicate a favorite -resort. Why, I took a dozen birds the other day with half a dozen of -Figure 9 traps in less than four hours by simply setting and resetting -in the right places, and then retiring out of sight. - -And not merely out of sight, let me tell the tyro, but out of the -range of the sense of smell. Never get to windward of any birds if -you are intent on catching them. It is a curious fact amongst the -lower animals, especially those brought under domestication, that they -perceive and appreciate at its value against themselves the presence -of man by smell as well as sight. Creatures of prey, from the hatred -with which they are held, seem to possess this faculty in the highest -degree. Were it not so, indeed, the struggle for existence with them -would soon end, and many at least of the species--whether fish, flesh -or fowl--would become extinct as the dodo. - -The bird-lime itself is the next consideration under this heading. I do -not advise any boy to make it himself, but if he nevertheless chooses -to do so, here is a recipe which will produce a very good “lime.” Half -a pint of Linseed-oil should be put into an iron pot and carefully -boiled over the fire for four hours, or, in fact, till it thickens -sufficiently, stirring it repeatedly the while with a stick. The oil is -smooth when it boils. In order to ascertain when it is done take out -the stick and immerse it in water, after which see if it sticks to the -fingers. If it does, the oil is ready to be poured into cold water, -and thereafter placed in little flat tin boxes--the most convenient -receptacles, as they fit in the waistcoat pocket, and can be used as -required. - -Birdlime is also made from holly bark, but according to the directions -given in the “Encyclopædia Britannica” the process is much too -troublesome for boys, and as one can buy birdlime enough to stick -a flock of rooks together for a few pence from a professional -bird-catcher, life may be considered too short for that process at -this time. As I am some distance from a town, much less a professional -bird-catcher, I make mine as above, and find it little if any inferior -to that I have been in the habit of buying. - -During winter time, when frost and snow cover the earth, birdlime is -very useful, for at that time the “clap” net is of very little use. A -good plan then is to sweep a bare place anywhere near a plantation or -wooded garden, or even in the farm-yards, and having anointed a few -dozen wheat ears with the straw attached--or rather, having anointed -the straw for about a foot nearest the ear--to spread them about in the -patch. The birds will attempt to take the ears away, and will so get -limed and drop to the ground. You must very quickly pick them up or you -will lose some, as their struggles not infrequently release them, at -least partially, and they flutter out of reach. - -Sometimes it will be found that a few handfuls of oats, barley or -wheat thrown down where the limed straws are will be of service when -they do not seem to care for the wheat ears themselves. There is the -probability of the little fellows coming in contact with the ears, and -so getting limed. These methods are chiefly applicable, as I have said, -to cold weather. - -A different mode of procedure may be practiced when the weather is -very hot. Cut, say, a hundred twigs of some smooth, thin wood, such as -withy, and after liming, stick them down by the side of any rivulet of -water near woody growths, and of course not near a large tract of water -such as a lake or river. Cover over the stream with brush or fern, so -that the birds can come only by where your limed twigs are placed. I -have had remarkable sport in this way when the birds have been coming -to drink during the forenoon and afternoon. - -I tried an experiment for rooks with bird-lime some little time ago. We -all know that in winter, during a thaw, rooks will frequent pastures -in great numbers, especially if cattle be present. About fifty yards -to the west of where I am now sitting is a long waterside pasture, -and thousands of rooks could be seen digging right lustily. Rooks are -too strong and wily to be limed in the usual way with bristles or -twigs, so I made some paper cones--funnel-shaped, you know, like the -grocers use for packing sugar--and anointed the inside with bird-lime, -sticking also a few grains of wheat round the inner side. The result -was ridiculous in the extreme. After scattering a few grains of corn -about and placing about a dozen of these limed brown-paper funnels -in a likely manner, I retired to a distance, and with my field-glass -watched. A flock soon found out the scattered grain, and one after the -other the cones were inspected, but for some time no one ventured to -do more. Presently, however, after the loose grain was apparently all -eaten, one of the wily birds had the temerity to poke his head inside a -cone. The result was much to his evident surprise, for the cone stuck -tight, and there he was tumbling and attempting to fly with a foolscap -on which blindfolded him, and which stuck tight enough to allow me -time to go up and release the poor fellow. I did not kill him, for -old rook pie is by no means palatable. I tried this plan for a heron -which continually frequented a little pond wherein my last year’s trout -are kept, but did not succeed in capturing him, though he took both -the cone and fish used for a bait away somehow. Anyhow it has most -thoroughly frightened my gentleman, for I have not seen him since. - -One fine morning some time since I had a delightful ramble with a -quaint old character living hereabouts who gets his living by mole -and bird catching. Old “Twiddle” he is familiarly called. One faculty -he has, and that is a natural love for nature’s works and a gift of -observation which has, perhaps almost unknown to himself, forced him -into being a natural naturalist, if I may so use the expression. -He can tell any bird on the wing by its flight, he knows all the -fancies--some of them old, imagined fancies--of bees, each fly as it -flits from the water’s edge has a name, though far from being that -given it by science. No matter for that; a rose by any other name would -smell as sweet and old Twiddle can tell something of its life-history. -Well, Twiddle and I started on our ramble, and this was how he was -equipped. A cage containing a beautiful little cock gold-finch duly -and comfortably furnished with food and water, and protected from the -sharp though clear air of the bright November day by means of an old -silk handkerchief. Some dozen or two of prepared bristles, a small box -of birdlime, and a “dummy” or stuffed gold-finch set up on a branch of -wood with one end sharpened so that the latter could be stuck in the -ground and then the bird retained in any position deemed desirable. -The bristles were of the best shoemaker’s kind, and, were arranged in -bunches of three on a stout carpet-needle. - -By the by I have improved on these by substituting a fish-hook -straightened (see Fig. 6). To do this take an ordinary eel-hook and -make it red-hot in the gas or candle flame, holding it the while by -means of a pair of pliers. It can be readily straightened after this, -whether hot or cold, as the heating softens the wire. The utility of -the barb lies in the fact that the bird cannot by any chance fly away -with the bristle or lose it for you in its struggles, because of the -barb’s holding power when thrust into the branch of a tree, etc. - -But to return. Chatting about this and that we journeyed along till -after old Twiddle had craned his neck over a ledge to regard the -other side of a field he announced our walk for the present ended. -On creeping through a hole in the hedge this field turned out to be -a piece of evidently waste water meadow, so-called because the crops -are, as it were, manured with water from the neighboring river, and -a perfect little forest of thistles with their downy heads swaying -in the breeze indicated the probable presence of the goldfinch. Some -thorn-trees grew in a row down the center of the field, and hither and -thither the sparrows flitted amongst their branches busily chattering -the news of sparrowdom. But I saw no finches. “Twiddle,” said I, “where -are the goldfinches?” “Ye’ll see where they be, sir, presently,” he -answered, setting down the caged bird near the largest of the thorns. -“Now, Billy,” he added, speaking to the bird, “crow away,” and with -that he removed the handkerchief. Billy needed no second bidding, and -his little throat quivered and trembled with the glad song which came -thrilling forth. - -Twiddle now placed the dummy bird just beneath a branch of the thorn -close to the cage and so as to be easily seen, and all around it and -round the cage the bristles carefully limed were stuck. All was now -ready. We retired behind the hedge where we could see and not be seen. - -Presently the singing was answered and we saw a gold-finch hopping -about amongst the branches of the thorn. Suddenly it caught sight of -the dummy bird and with a pleased swiftness flew towards it. In another -second it had touched a limed bristle and was rolling over and over -hopelessly liming its wings with every fresh bristle it touched. - -Very carefully the little chap was dusted with a little fine earth -to mitigate the stickiness and placed in another cage which the -bird-catcher always carries for the wild birds. It is flat and long and -well supplied with food and water; in the upper part of it is a hole -sufficiently large to admit the hand, and to the two edges of this hole -is tacked the leg of an old stocking, which falls inwards. Then the -bird can easily be placed inside, but cannot escape, because the folds -of the stocking fold together. - -We caught five there and, as the market value of the birds was about -twenty-five cents, Twiddle, it must be owned, had a very profitable -morning’s work. Let me express a hope that my readers may be so -successful. - - * * * * * - - - - -The Art of Stretching and Curing Skins. - - -The market value of skins are greatly affected by the care used in -skinning and curing. We take the following from The Trapper’s Guide, -the best known authority on these matters: - -In drying skins it is important that they should be stretched tight -like a strained drum head. This can be done after a fashion by simply -nailing them flat on a wide board or a barn door. But this method, -besides being impracticable on a large scale in the woods (where most -skins have to be cured) is objectionable, because it exposes only one -side of the pelt to the air. The stretchers that are generally approved -and used by good trappers, are of three kinds, adapted to the skins of -different classes of animals, and shall call them the board-stretcher, -the bow-stretcher, and the hoop-stretcher, and will describe them, -indicating the different animals to which each is adapted. - - * * * * * - -THE BOARD-STRETCHER.--This contrivance is made in the following manner: -Prepare a board of bass-wood or other light material, two feet three -inches long, three inches and a half wide at one end, and two inches -and an eighth at the other, and three-eighths of an inch thick. Chamfer -it from the center to the sides almost to an edge. Round and chamfer -the small end about an inch up on the sides. Split this board through -the center with a knife or saw. Finally, prepare a wedge of the same -length and thickness, one inch wide at the large end, and tapering -to three-eighths of an inch at the small end, to be driven between -the halves of the board. This is a stretcher suitable for a mink or a -marten. Two larger sizes, with similar proportions, are required for -the larger animals. The largest size, suitable for the full grown otter -or wolf, should be five feet and a half long, seven inches wide at the -large end when fully spread by the wedge, and six inches at the small -end. An intermediate size is required for the fisher, raccoon, fox, and -some other animals, the proportions of which can be easily figured out. - -These stretchers require that the skin of the animal should not be -ripped through the belly, but should be stripped off whole. This is -done in the following manner: Commence with the knife at the hind feet, -and slit down to the vent. Cut around the vent, and strip the skin from -the bone of the tail with the help of the thumb nail or a split slick. -Make no other slits in the skin, except in the case of the otter, whose -tail requires to be split, spread, and tacked on to the board. Peel -the skin from the body by drawing it over itself, leaving the fur side -inward. - -In this condition the skin should be drawn on to the split board, (with -the back on one side and the belly on the other) to its utmost length, -and fastened with tacks or by notches cut in the edge of the board, and -then the wedge should be driven between the two halves. Finally, make -all fast by a tack at the root of the tail, and another on the opposite -side. The skin is then stretched to its utmost capacity, as a boot-leg -is stretched by the shoe-maker’s “tree,” and it may be hung away in the -proper place, by a hole in one end of the stretcher, and left to dry. - -A modification of this kind of stretcher, often used in curing the -skins of the muskrat and other small animals, is a simple board, -without split or wedge, three-sixteenths of an inch thick, twenty -inches long, six inches wide at the large end, and tapering to five and -a half inches at six inches from the small end, chamfered and rounded -as in the other cases. The animal should be skinned as before directed, -and the skin drawn tightly on to the board and fastened with about four -tacks. Sets of these boards, sufficient for a muskrat campaign, can -easily be made and transported. They are very light and take up but -little room in packing, thirty-two of them making but six inches in -thickness. - - * * * * * - -THE BOW STRETCHER.--The most common way of treating the muskrat is to -cut off its feet with a hatchet, and rip with a knife from between the -two teeth in the lower jaw, down the belly, about two inches below -where the fore-legs come out. Then the skin is started by cutting -around the lips, eyes, and ears, and is stripped over the body with -the fur side inward. Finally a stick of birch, water-beech, ironwood, -hickory, or elm, an inch in diameter at the butt, and three feet and a -half long, is bent into the shape of an oxbow and shoved into the skin, -which is drawn tight, and fastened by splitting down a sliver in the -bow and drawing the skin of the lip into it. - -This method is too common to be easily abolished, and is tolerable when -circumstances make it necessary; but the former method of stretching -by a tapering board, in the case of muskrats as well as other small -animals, is much the best. Skins treated in that way keep their proper -shape, and pack better than those stretched on bows, and in the long -run boards are more economical than bows, as a set of them can be used -many times, and will last several years, whereas bows are seldom used -more than once, being generally broken in taking out. - - * * * * * - -THE HOOP STRETCHER.--The skins of large animals, such as the beaver and -the bear, are best dried by spreading them, at full size, in a hoop. -For this purpose, a stick of hickory or other flexible wood should be -cut, long enough to entirely surround the skin when bent. (If a single -stick long enough is not at hand, two smaller ones can be spliced -together.) The ends should be brought around, lapped, and tied with a -string or a withe of bark. The skin should be taken from the animal by -ripping from the lower front teeth to the vent, and peeling around the -lips, eyes, and ears, but without ripping up the legs. It should then -be placed inside the hoop and fastened at opposite sides, with twine -or bark, till all loose parts are taken up, and the whole stretched so -that it is nearly round and as tight as a drum-head. When it is dry it -may be taken from the hoop, and is ready for packing and transportation. - -This is the proper method of treating the skin of the deer. Some prefer -it for the wolf and raccoon. In many cases the trapper may take his -choice between the hoop and the board method. One or the other methods -will be found satisfactory for curing all kinds of skins. - - - - -Dressing and Tanning Skins and Furs. - - - * * * * * - -DRESSING SKINS WITH FUR WOOL ON.--The cheapest and readiest as well as -the best method of dressing skins for use with the hair or wool on, is -to first scrape off all the fat with a knife rather blunt on the edge, -so as not to cut holes into the hide, upon a round smooth log. The log -for convenience sake should have a couple of legs in one end, like a -tressle; the other end should rest upon the ground. - -After the fat is well cleaned off, take the brains of the animal, or -the brains of any other recently killed, and work them thoroughly -into the hide. This renders the hide pliable. Then to preserve from -the ravages of insects scatter on it some powdered alum and a little -saltpeter. If the hair side has become greasy, a little weak lye will -take it out. Sheep-skins may be dressed in the same way, though the -wool should be cleaned with soapsuds before using the brains. Another -way, but more expensive, is to use a paste made of the yolk of eggs and -whiting instead of brains, working it in the same way, letting it dry -and brushing off the whiting. Then add the powdered alum as before. -Deer-skins and even small calf-skins are often tawed as the process -is called with the hair on for garments. If it is desired to give the -deer-skin a yellow color, yellow ocher or chrome yellow may be used in -combination with the brains or yolks of eggs and afterwards brushed off. - -If it is simply desired to preserve skins until they are sold, it is -only necessary to dry them thoroughly. If the weather should be damp -and warm, salt the flesh side slightly with fine salt. - - * * * * * - -WITHOUT THE WOOL OR HAIR.--Sheep-skin, deer-skin, dog-skin, calf-skin, -&c., for gloves, &c., are also tawed, but the hair must be taken off. -The skins are first soaked in warm water, scraped on the flesh side to -get off fat, and hung in a warm room until they begin to give a slight -smell of hartshorn. The wool or fur then comes off rapidly. The hair -side should now be thoroughly scraped against the hair. The skin is -next soaked two or three weeks in weak lime water, changing the water -two or three times. Then they are brought out again, scraped smooth -and trimmed. Then rinsed in clean water, then soaked in wheat bran -and water for two or three weeks. After this they are well stirred -around in pickle of alum, salt and water. Then they are thrown again -into the bran and water for two or three days. Then stretched and -dried somewhat in a warm room. After this they are soaked in warm -water and then worked or trodden on in a trough or pail filled with -yolk of eggs, salt, alum, flour and water, beaten to a froth. They are -finally stretched and dried in an airy room, and last of all smoothed -with a warm smoothing iron. This makes the beautiful leather we see in -gloves, military trimmings, &c. The proportions for the egg paste are -as follows: 3-1/2 pounds salt, 8 pounds alum, 21 pounds wheat flour and -yolks of nine dozen eggs. Make a paste with water, dissolving first the -alum and salt. A little of this paste is used as wanted with a great -deal of water. - -Chamois skin and deer skins not wanted for gloves are similarly -treated up to the point of treating with egg paste. Instead of using -this process, they are oiled on the hair side with very clean animal -oil, rolled into balls and thrown into the trough of a fulling mill, -well beaten two or three hours, aired, re-oiled, beaten again and the -process repeated a third time. They are then put into a warm room -until they begin to give out a decided smell, then scoured in weak -lye to take out superfluous grease. Here the intention is merely to -get a thick felt-like skin of good color, a nicely grained surface is -not required as in gloves. The skins are finally rinsed, wrung out, -stretched and dried, and when nearly dry, slightly rub with a smooth, -hard, round stick. - -These are the fine processes. A dried skin oiled so as to become smooth -and pliable will retain the hair or wool a considerable time. - -Or it may be made more durable where the color of the flesh side is no -object by scraping, washing in soapsuds and then putting directly into -the tan pit. For ordinary purposes rabbit, squirrel and other small -skins can be efficiently preserved with the hair by the application of -powdered alum and fine salt, put on them when fresh, or if not fresh -by dampening them first. Squirrel skins when wanted without the hair -will tan very well in wheat bran tea, the fat and hair having been -previously removed by soaking in lime-water and scraping. Old tea -leaves afford tannin enough for small skins, but they give a color -not nearly so pleasant as bran. Almost any of the barks afford tannin -enough for small skins--willow, pine, poplar, hemlock of course, -sumach, etc. - - - - -Coloring or Dyeing Skins and Furs. - - -Furs are dyed by dealers, to suit some fashion, to conceal defects or -to pass off inferior furs for better ones. - -The best way is to brush the dye over the fur with a good sponge, -brushing with the hair. As a matter of course, you can only dye them -of a darker color than they are, and retain the handsome lustrous look -peculiar to fur. They may be bleached, but the process leaves the fur -looking like coarse flax or even hemp. - - * * * * * - -BLUE.--Sulphate of indigo, (soluble indigo, sold by all druggists,) -is the readiest and best to get a blue with. Furs are never dyed blue -for sale, for that would be spoiling a white fur, but sheep-skins are. -The skin should be dipped several times in a bath of hot alum water, -allowed to drain, and then dipped into a solution of sulphate of indigo -and water, with a few drops of sulphuric acid added, this gives a pale -blue. Aniline blue is very fine, and dyeing with it is very simple. A -solution of the color in water is made, a hot solution, and the skin -put in all at once, (if a part of the skin is put in first that part -will be darkest, so quick is the absorption of these colors). Fancy -sheep-skin mats are colored blue, red, green, and yellow, and have a -ready sale when they are new. - - * * * * * - -BLACK.--The best black is obtained by first dyeing the skin a -blue. Then boil one-quarter pound gall nuts, powdered, and one and -one-quarter ounces of logwood, in three gallons of water. If the flesh -side is to be blue, while the fur or wool is another, this decoction -must be sponged on. - -Get the wool or hair thoroughly impregnated with this and then add -one-quarter pound copperas to the dye and go over the fur or wool -many times with the sponge. The process above given will answer -without previous blueing, but the black is not so brilliant. Another -“home-made” dye which will answer for dyeing clothes a black, as well -as sheep-skins, is this: Just make a bath of eight ounces of bichromate -of potash, six ounces alum, four ounces fustic; boil in water enough to -cover five pounds of yarn, cloth or a single sheep-skin. Make another -bath of four pounds of logwood, four ounces each bar wood and fustic, -or eight ounces fustic; same amount of boiling water as last. Stir the -goods well around in the first bath, keeping the water hot for an hour; -then work it in the second bath the same length of time. Take them and -wring them; then, adding one-quarter pound of copperas to the last -bath, put the goods in again and give them a good stirring. This is a -good black dye for wool goods or furs, but not for silks or cottons. - - * * * * * - -RED.--Furs of course are never dyed red, at least in this country. -Sheep-skins might be dyed with madder or cochineal, but in the former -case, the skin would of necessity be boiled with the dye, as that is -necessary in using madder. Cochineal would be expensive and require -much working, while as brilliant reds and purples may be got from the -aniline colors, dissolved in moderately warm water, the skum taken -off, and skin dipped. These colors are the cheapest, too, as they go -very far. But always have the wool as free from grease as possible by -working in weak hot lye or hot soapsuds. - - * * * * * - -YELLOW.--Can be got on sheep-skins with black oak bark, (quercitron -bark) old fustic, annotta, and Persian (also called French) berries. -The skin should be previously dipped into a hot bath of alum, cream of -tartar or spirit of tin, about two ounces to the gallon. About one-half -pound of annotta, or a pound of the other articles, are enough for a -single skin. If you wish to use fustic, be particular to ask for old -fustic, as what is known in the trade as young fustic, is a different -article and gives a different color. There is also now an aniline -yellow which works like the other colors. - - * * * * * - -GREEN.--Dye first blue as explained above, then pass through a yellow -dye, until you get the shade required. An alum bath, cream of tartar, -or spirits of tin, as above, must be used before the blue is given. - - * * * * * - -PRESERVATION OF FURS.--While in use furs should be occasionally combed. -When not wanted, dry them first, then let them cool, and mix among -them bitter apples from the druggists, in small muslin bags, sewing -them in several folds of linen, carefully turned in at the edges and -kept from damp. Camphor or pepper used in the same manner, will have a -similar effect. Well cleaned furs are much less liable to be attacked -by moths, than those affording rich repasts of dried flesh, though no -furs are absolutely safe without great watchfulness. Wrapping well in -good brown paper and keeping in a tight paper box, are all helps to the -preservation of furs. Sunshine and fresh air kill the fur and wool moth -grub. Therefore taking out the furs occasionally and airing, sunning -and beating them is necessary. - - * * * * * - -TO TAN MUSKRAT SKINS WITH THE FUR ON.--First for soaking, to 10 gallons -of cold soft water add 8 parts of wheat bran, 1/2 pint of old soap, 1 -ounce of borax; by adding 2 ounces of sulphuric acid, the soaking may -be done in one-half the time. If the hides have not been salted, add a -pint of salt. Green hides should not be soaked more than 8 or 10 hours. -Dry ones should soak till very soft. - -For tan liquor, to ten gallons warm soft water add 1/2 bushel bran; -stir well and let stand in a warm room till it ferments. Then add -slowly 2-1/2 pounds sulphuric acid; stir all the while. Muskrat hides -should remain in about 4 hours. Then take out and rub with a fleshing -knife--an old chopping knife with the edge taken off will do. Then work -it over a beam until entirely dry. - - - - -Some Additional Valuable Miscellaneous Information Useful Alike to the -Hunter, Trapper and Angler. - - - * * * * * - -HINTS TO TRAPPERS.--The skins of animals trapped are always valued -higher than those shot, as shot not only make holes, but frequently -plow along the skin, making furrows, as well as shaving off the fur. -To realize the utmost for skins they must be taken care of, and also -cleaned and prepared properly. Newhouse gives these general rules -derived from experience. - -1. Be careful to visit your traps often enough, so that the skin will -not have time to get tainted. - -2. As soon as possible after the animal is dead and dry, attend to the -skinning and curing. - -3. Scrape off all superfluous flesh and fat, and be careful not to go -so deep as to cut the fiber of the skin. - -4. Never dry a skin by the fire or in the sun, but in a cool, shady -place, sheltered from rain. If you use a barn door for a stretcher (as -boys sometimes do), nail the skin on the inside of the door. - -5. Never use preparations of any kind in curing skins, nor even wash -them in water, but simply stretch and dry them as they are taken from -the animal. - - * * * * * - -TO DRESS BEAVER SKINS.--You must rip the skin the same as you would a -sheep. Stretch it in all ways as much as possible; then it is to be -dressed with equal parts of rock salt and alum dissolved in water, and -made about as thick as cream, by stirring in coarse flour. This should -be spread on nearly half an inch thick, and scraped off when dry, and -repeated if one time is not enough. This same process of dressing -applies likewise to otter skins. - - * * * * * - -TO TRAP QUAIL.--A quail trap may be any kind of coop, supported by a -figure 4. The spindle of the figure must either be so made as to hold -grain, or, what is better, some grains of wheat or buckwheat are strung -over a strong thread with the aid of a needle, and tied to the spindle. -Quails and prairie hens easily enter a trap when the ground is covered -with snow. At other times it is rather difficult to catch them. - - * * * * * - -TO TRAP WILD TURKEY.--A wild turkey trap is made by first digging a -ditch; then over one end is built a rude structure of logs, covered at -the top. - -The structure should not be tight, but, of course, sufficiently close -not to let the birds through. Indian corn is scattered about and in the -ditch, and inside of the pen. The turkeys follow up corn in the ditch, -and emerge from it on the inside. Once there, the silly birds never -think of descending into the ditch, but walk round and round the pen, -looking through the chinks of the logs for escape that way. To make all -sure, the ditch should end about the centre of the pen, and a bridge -of sticks, grass and earth should be built over the ditch, just inside -of the pen, and close to the logs; otherwise, in going around the bird -might step inside the ditch, and once there, it would follow the light -and thereby reach the outside of the pen. - - * * * * * - -TO CATCH MUSKRATS WITHOUT TRAPS.--It is a mystery to many how muskrats, -beavers, and other animals, are able to remain so long under water, -apparently without breathing, especially in winter. The way they -manage is, they take in a good breath at starting, and then remain -under water as long as possible. Then they rise up to the ice and -breathe out the air in their lungs, which remains in a bubble against -the lower part of the ice. - -The water near the ice is highly charged with oxygen, which it readily -imparts to the air breathed out. After a time, this air is taken back -in the lungs, and the animal again goes under the water, repeating -this process from time to time. In this way they can travel almost any -distance, and live almost any length of time under the ice. The hunter -takes advantage of this habit of the muskrat in the following manner. -When the marshes and ponds where the muskrat abounds are first frozen -over, and the ice is thin and clear, on striking into their houses -with his hatchet, for the purpose of setting his trap, he frequently -sees a whole family plunge into the water and swim away under the ice. -Following one for some distance, he sees him come up to recover his -breath, in the manner above described. After the animal has breathed -against the ice, and before he has time to take his bubble in again, -the hunter strikes with his hatchet directly over him, and drives him -away from his breath. In this case he drowns in swimming a few rods, -and the hunter, cutting a hole in the ice, takes him out. - - * * * * * - -BLEACHING WOOL ON TANNED PELTS.--Put an old pot or other iron vessel in -the bottom of a hogshead, and in the vessel a roll of brimstone. Fasten -near the top a stick or two to place the skin on. The wool must be wet -when hung on the sticks. Heat an old iron red hot, or take live coals -to start the brimstone. When it is burning briskly, cover the hogshead -tight to keep the smoke in. If not white enough, repeat the process. - -The Esquimaux mode of tanning is very simple, and the material employed -the cheapest and cost accessible of any used in the art, viz: the urine -of man and beast. The skins are prepared in the fur, and softened and -tanned in urine, which is usually kept in tubs in the porches of their -huts, for use in dressing deer, seal and other skins. They show great -skill in the preparation of whale, seal and deer skins, and these, on -the whole, are equal to the best oil skins made in England. It imparts -to them firmness and durability, and makes them waterproof. The boots -worn by the Esquimaux are generally made from seal or walrus hides, and -resist the encroachments of water. - - * * * * * - -HAWK AND OWL TRAPS.--To catch hawks or owls, take a pole 20 feet long, -to be set a short distance from the house or barn or on the poultry -house. Split the top so as to admit the base of a common steel trap, -which should be made fast. When both trap and pole are set you may be -sure of game of some kind. These birds naturally light on high objects, -such as dead branches of trees or tops of stacks, and one should use -judgment about the place where he puts the traps. An open field near -the chicken yard is probably the best. - - * * * * * - -DOMESTIC MANUFACTURE OF FURS.--The skins of raccoons, minks, muskrats, -rabbits, foxes, deer, cats, dogs, woodchucks and skunks are all -valuable. Handsome robes may be made from the skins of the last two -animals, and the writer has seen fur coats made from the skins of -woodchucks, well tanned, dyed and trimmed, which were elegant as well -as comfortable, and no one but a connoisseur would be able to guess -their origin. Of the finer and nicer furs, beautiful collars, muffs, -cuffs, caps, gloves and trimmings may be made with a little ingenuity -and perseverance; and who would not feel a greater satisfaction in -wearing a nice article, from the fact that it was something of their -own manufacture--a product of their own taste and genius? - -Very handsome floor-mats are made by tanning sheep pelts and dyeing -them some bright color, which is done with very little trouble; the art -of dyeing is now so familiar to almost every household. Furs may be -dyed as easily as woolen goods, notwithstanding the impression that it -is an art known only to the trade. Any dye that will color woolens will -also dye furs, only care must be taken not to have the dye too hot, or -the texture of the skin will be injured. - -The mode of tanning usually followed by city furriers is to rub the -skins well with rancid butter, then tread them thoroughly in a tub or -vat, after which a large quantity of sawdust is mixed with them, and -the process of treading continued until all the grease is absorbed, -when they are finished off by beating, working and rubbing with chalk -and potter’s clay, whipping and brushing. An old trapper practiced this -method with small skins, first washing with a suds of soap and sal-soda -to free them from grease, then rinsing in clear water to cleanse them -from the suds, then rubbing as dry as possible, after which they were -put in a mixture of two ounces of salt to a quart of water, added -to three quarts of milk or bran-water containing one ounce of best -sulphuric acid, and stirred briskly for forty or fifty minutes; from -this they are taken dripping into a strong solution of sal-soda and -stirred till they will no longer foam; they are then hung to dry, when -they are very soft and pliable. - -A very good and simple process in use among farmers is to sprinkle the -flesh side, after scraping it well, with equal parts of pulverized alum -and salt, or washing it well with a strong solution of the same, then -folding the flesh side together and rolling it compactly, in which -state it should remain for eight or ten days; then it is opened, -sprinkled with bran or sawdust to absorb the moisture, and rolled up -again, and after remaining twenty-four hours, the process is completed -by a thorough rubbing and manipulation, on which the pliability -depends. Skins, when taken off, should be freed from grease or flesh -by thorough scraping, when they may be dried, and left to await the -leisure of the owner. Previous to tanning they must be well soaked and -wrung dry. - -It is no extravagance to assert that every farmer’s family may furnish -their own fur collars, gloves, robes, and other articles of dress and -ornament, with trifling expense, from the resources within their own -reach; but from want of more knowledge on the subject valuable skins -are wasted or disposed of for a mere fraction of their real value, -and articles of apparel that should be made from them are bought at -extravagant prices of fur dealers. - - * * * * * - -INDIAN MODE OF TANNING BUFFALO SKINS.--The hard and incessant labor -that is necessary to properly “Indian tan” a robe is not easily to -realize unless one may see the work go on day by day from the first -step, which is to spread out the pelt or undressed hide upon the -ground, where it is pinned fast by means of wooden pins driven through -little cuts in the edge of the robe into the earth. The flesh side of -the robe, being uppermost, is then worked over by two and sometimes -three squaws. The tools used are very rude, some being simply provided -with sharp stones or buffalo bones. Others, more wealthy, have a -something that much resembles a drawing-knife or shave of the cooper. -The work in hand is to free the hide from every particle of flesh, and -to reduce the thickness of the robe nearly one half, and sometimes even -more. - -This fleshing, as it is termed, having been thoroughly accomplished, -the hide is thoroughly moistened with water in which the buffalo -brains have been steeped. For ten days the hide is kept damp with this -brain water. Once each day the hide is taken up and every portion of -it rubbed and re-rubbed by the squaws, who do not have recourse to -anything like a rubbing-board, but use their hands until it would seem -as if the skin would soon be worn off. There seems to be no definite -rule as to the length of time which the robe shall occupy in curing. -The squaw labors until the hide becomes a robe, which may require the -work of one week or two, sometimes even more; but I think that ten days -may be considered as the average time which it takes to properly cure a -robe. - - * * * * * - -TO DRESS DEER SKINS.--Put the skin into the liquid while warm, viz: -eight quarts rain water to one pint soft soap. Warm it. Then punch the -hide, or work it with a soft stick, and let it lay one day. It is then -to be taken out and wrung--rolled between two logs--or even a wringing -machine will be better. Then stretch it until it is dry, in the sun is -best, or by a hot fire. Then oil it thoroughly with any oil convenient. - -It should then be treated to the same bath of suds (heated quite warm), -and lay another day. Then pull it out and dry as before. Any oil will -do, but good fresh butter is better than anything else. When the skin -is dry rub it with ochre, which will give it a splendid yellow color. - - * * * * * - -TANNING AND BUFFING FOR DEER SKIN GLOVES.--For each skin take a bucket -of water and put into it 1 quart of lime; let the skin or skins lay in -from 3 to 4 days; then rinse in clean water, hair and grain; then soak -them in cold water to get out the glue; now scour or pound in good soap -suds for half an hour; after which take white vitriol, alum and salt, -one tablespoon of each to a skin; this will be dissolved in sufficient -water to cover the skin and remain in it for 24 hours; wring out as dry -as convenient, and spread on with a brush 1/2 pint of currier’s oil, -and hang in the sun about two days; after which you will scour out the -oil with soap suds, and hang out again until perfectly dry; then pull -and work them until they are soft; and if a reasonable time does not -make them soft, scour out in suds again as before, until complete. - -The oil may be saved by pouring or taking it from the top of the suds, -if left standing a short time. The buff color is given by spreading -yellow ochre evenly over the surface of the skin, when finished, -rubbing it in well with a brush. - - * * * * * - -DYEING FOR BUCKSKIN, (Buff.)--5 parts of whiting to 2 parts of ochre -(yellow), and mix them with water to a paste; make into cakes and dry. -When a dressed skin is dry, rub one of the balls over the surface; -rub the powder in. Take a piece of sand-paper and raise a nap on the -leather by going over it. (Black.)--Take clear logwood; after it is -dry use copperas water to blacken it. Be careful and not use too much. -(Dark Brown.)--5 pounds of oak bark; 4 pounds of fustic; 14 ounces of -logwood. Use alum water (strong) to make it strike in. (Drab.)--Mix -blue clay with soft soap; add blue vitriol to shade the color. It can -be made any shade you wish. - - * * * * * - -DYEING FOR MOROCCO AND SHEEP LEATHER.--The following colors may be -imparted to leather, according to the various uses for which it is -intended. (Blue.)--Blue is given by steeping the subject a day in urine -and indigo, then boiling it with alum; or it may be given by tempering -the indigo with red wine, and washing the skins therewith. - -(Another.)--Boil elderberries or dwarf elder, then smear and wash -the skins therewith and wring them out; then boil the elderberries -as before in a solution of alum water, and wet the skins in the -same manner once or twice; dry them, and they will be very blue. -(Red.)--Red is given by washing the skin and laying them two hours -in galls, then wringing them out, dipping them in a liquor made with -ligustrum, alum and verdigris; in water, and lastly in a dye made of -Brazil wood boiled with lye. (Purple.)--Purple is given by wetting the -skins with a solution of roche alum in warm water, and when dry, again -rubbing them with the hand with a decoction of logwood in cold water. -(Green.)--Green is given by smearing the skin with sap green and alum -water, boiled. (Dark Green.)--Dark green is given with steel filings -and sal ammoniac, steeped in urine till soft, then smeared over the -skin, which is to be dried in the shade. (Yellow.)--Yellow is given -by smearing the skin over with aloes and linseed oil, dissolved and -strained, or by infusing it in weld. (Light Orange.)--Orange color is -given by smearing it with fustic berries boiled in alum water, or, -for a deep orange, with turmeric. (Sky color.)--Sky color is given -with indigo steeped in boiling water, and the next morning warmed and -smeared over the skin. - - * * * * * - -OPERATION OF TANNING.--The first operation is to soak the hide, as no -hide can be properly tanned unless it has been soaked and broken on a -fleshing beam. If the hide has not been salted add a little salt and -soak it in soft water. In order to be thoroughly soaked, green hides -should remain in this liquor from 9 to 12 days; of coarse the lime -varies with the thickness of the hide. The following liquor is used -to remove hair or wool, viz: 10 gallons cold water (soft), 8 quarts -slacked lime, and same quantity of wood ashes. Soak until the hair or -wool will pull off easily. - -As it frequently happens it is desirable to cure the hide and keep the -hair clean, the following paste should be made, viz: equal parts of -lime and hard-wood ashes, (lime should be slacked,) and made into a -paste with soft water. This should be spread on the flesh side of the -hide and the skin rolled up, flesh side in, and placed in a tub, just -covering it with water. It should remain 10 days, or until the hair -will pull out easily, then scrape off with a knife. - - * * * * * - -TO DEODERIZE SKUNK SKINS.--To deoderize skunk skins or articles for -clothing scented, hold them over a fire of red cedar boughs, and -sprinkle with chloride of lime; or wrap them in green hemlock boughs -when they are to be had, and in 24 hours they will be cleansed. - - * * * * * - -HOW TO SHOOT SNIPE.--To the beginner no bird is more puzzling, and, -therefore, more difficult to shoot. Its flight is most uncertain, most -variable, and most irregular--rising at one time as evenly as a lark, -and flying close to the ground with scarcely the slightest deviation -from a straight line; at another, springing from the ground as if -fired from a gun, and then flying in a zig-zag course to the right or -left, and, indeed, in every direction; and sometimes, again, rising -to a great height, and then going straight away with the rapidity of -lightning. And yet, with all these apparent difficulties, when the -knack is once acquired, it becomes comparatively easy--indeed, is -reduced almost to a certainty. The great art in this kind of shooting -is coolness, and to avoid too much hurry. And, in this, as in every -other kind of shooting, the first sight is the best; the moment you -are “well on” your bird, the trigger should be pulled. In cross shots, -fire well before your bird. Contrary to the usual practice, you should -always walk down wind; the reason for this is that snipe always rise -against it. Sometimes snipe are very wild, and at others will lie until -they are almost trodden upon. If there be much wind, your best chance -is to “down with them” as soon as they rise from the ground, or you -have little hope of getting a bag. - - * * * * * - -PRESEVERATIVES FOR SKINS.--The best material for the preseveration of -skins of animals consists in powdered arsenious acid, or the common -arsenic of the shops. This may be used in two ways: either applied in -dry powder on the moist skin, or, still better, mixed with alcohol or -water to the consistency of molasses, and put on with a brush. Some -camphor may be added to the alcoholic solution, and a little strychnine -will undoubtedly increase its efficacy. There are no satisfactory -substitutes for arsenic, but, in its entire absence, corrosive -sublimate, camphor, alum, etc., may be employed. - -Many persons prefer the arsenical soap to the pure arsenic. This is -composed of the following ingredients, arsenic, 1 ounce; white soap, 1 -ounce; carbonate of potash, 1 dram; water, 6 drams; camphor, 2 drams. -Cut the soap into thin slices, and melt over a slow fire with the -water, stirring it continually; when dissolved, remove from the fire, -and add the potash and arsenic by degrees; dissolve the camphor in a -little alcohol, and when the mixture is nearly cold, stir it in. - -The proper materials for stuffing out skins will depend much upon the -size of the animal. For small birds and quadrupeds, cotton will be -found most convenient; for the larger, tow; for those still larger, -dry grass, straw, sawdust, bran, or other vegetable substances, may -be used. Whatever substance be used, care must be taken to have it -perfectly dry. Under no circumstances should animal matter, as hair, -wool, or feathers, be employed. - -The bills and loral region, as well as the legs and feet of birds, -and the ears, lips and toes of mammals, may, as most exposed to the -ravages of insects, be washed with an alcoholic solution of strychnine -applied with a brush to the dried skin; this will be an almost certain -safeguard against injury. - - * * * * * - -FISHING WITH NATURAL FLY.--This consists in fishing with the natural -flies, grasshoppers, etc., which are found on the banks of the -rivers or lakes where you are fishing. It is practiced with a long -rod, running tackle, and fine line. When learning this system of -angling, begin by fishing close under the banks, gradually increasing -your distance until you can throw your live bait across the stream, -screening yourself behind a tree, a bush, or a cluster of weeds, -otherwise you will not have the satisfaction of lifting a single fish -out of the water. In rivers where immense quantities of weeds grow in -the summer, so as almost to check the current, you must fish where the -stream runs most rapidly, taking care that in throwing your line into -those parts you do not entangle it among the weeds. Draw out only as -much line as will let the fly touch the surface, and if the wind is at -your back it will be of no material service to you in carrying the fly -lightly over the water. In such places the water is generally still, -and your bait must, if possible, be dropped with no more noise than the -living fly would make if it fell into the water. - -Keep the top of your rod a little elevated, and frequently raise and -depress it and move it to and fro very gently, in order that the fly -by its shifting about may deceive the fish and tempt them to make a -bite. The instant your bait is taken, strike smartly, and if the fish -is not so large as to overstrain and snap your tackle, haul it out -immediately, as you may scare away many while trying to secure one. -There are very many baits which may be used with success in natural fly -fishing, of which, however, we shall content ourselves with enumerating -some of the most usual and useful. - -Wasps, hornets and bumble bees are esteemed good baits for dace, eels, -roach, bream and chub; they should be dried in an oven over the fire, -and if not overdone, they will keep a long while. - - * * * * * - -HOW TO SELECT FURS.--In purchasing furs, a sure test of what dealers -call a “prime” fur is the length and density of the down next the skin; -this can be readily determined by blowing a brisk current of air from -the mouth against the set of fur. If the fibers open readily, exposing -the skin to the view, reject the article; but if the down is so dense -that the breath cannot penetrate it, or at most shows but a small -portion of the skin, the article may be accepted. - - * * * * * - -TO CLEAN FURS.--Strip the fur articles of their stuffing and binding, -and lay them as much as possible in a flat position. They must then be -subjected to a very brisk brushing, with a stiff clothes brush; after -that, any moth-eaten parts must be cut out, and be neatly replaced by -new bits of fur to match. Sable, chinchilla, squirrel, fitch, etc., -should be treated as follows: Warm a quantity of new bran in a pan, -taking care that it does not burn, to prevent which it must be actively -stirred. When well warmed, rub it thoroughly into the fur with the -hand. Repeat this two or three times; then shake the fur, and give -it another sharp brushing until free from dust. White furs, ermine, -etc., may be cleaned as follows: Lay the fur on the table, and rub it -well with bran made moist with warm water; rub until quite dry, and -afterward with dry bran. The wet bran should be put on with flannel, -and the dry with a piece of book-muslin. - -The light furs, in addition to the above, should be well rubbed with -magnesia, or a piece of book-muslin after the bran process. Furs are -usually much improved by stretching, which may be managed as follows: -to a pint of soft water add three ounces of salt; dissolve; with this -solution sponge the inside of the skin (taking care not to wet the -fur) until it becomes thoroughly saturated; then lay it carefully on -a board with the fur side downward, in its natural disposition, then -stretch as much as it will bear, to the required shape, and fasten with -small tacks. The drying may be quickened by placing the skin a little -distance from the fire or stove. - - * * * * * - -FISHING WITH ARTIFICIAL FLY.--Artificial fly fishing consists in the -use of imitations of these flies and of other fancy flies, and is -unquestionably the most scientific mode of angling, requiring great -tact and practice to make the flies with neatness and to use them -successfully, and calling forth as it does so much more skill than the -ordinary method of bottom fishing, it merits its superior reputation. - -It possesses many advantages over bottom fishing, but at the same time -it has its disadvantages; it is much more cleanly in its preparations, -inasmuch as it does not require the angler to grub for clay and work up -a quantity of ground baits, and is not so toilsome in its practice, for -the only encumbrances which the fly fisher has are simply a light rod, -a book of flies and whatever fish he may chance to catch; but there are -several kinds of fish which will not rise at a fly, and even those that -do will not be lured from their quiet retreat during very wet or cold -weather. It would be well if the young angler could go out for some -little time with an old experienced hand, to observe and imitate his -movements as closely as possible. - - * * * * * - -TO PREPARE SHEEP SKINS FOR MATS.--Make a strong lather with hot water -and let it stand till cold; wash the fresh skin in it, carefully -squeezing out all the dirt from the wool; wash it in cold water till -all the soap is taken out. Dissolve a pound each of salt and alum in -two gallons of hot water, and put the skin into a tub sufficient to -cover it; let it soak for twelve hours, and hang it over a pole to -drain. When well drained stretch it carefully on a board to dry, and -stretch several times while drying. Before it is quite dry, sprinkle on -the flesh side one ounce each of finely pulverized alum and saltpetre, -rubbing it in well. - -Try if the wool be firm on the skin; if not, let it remain a day or -two, then rub again with alum; fold the flesh sides together and hang -in the shade for two or three days, turning them over each day till -quite dry. Scrape the flesh side with a blunt knife, and rub it with -pumice or rotten stone. - - * * * * * - -TO TAN SHEEP SKINS.--Sheep skins, which are used for a variety of -purposes, such as gloves, book-covers, etc., and which when dyed, are -converted into mock Morocco leather, are dressed as follows: They are -first to be soaked in water and handled, to separate all impurities, -which may be scraped off by a blunt knife on a beam. They are then to -be hung up in a close, warm room to putrefy. This putrefaction loosens -the wool, and causes the exudation of an oily and slimy matter, all -which are to be removed by the knife. The skins are now to be steeped -in milk of lime, to harden and thicken; here they remain for 1 month -or 6 weeks, according to circumstances, and when taken out, they are -to be smoothed on the fleshy side with a sharp knife. They are now to -be steeped in a bath of bran and water, where they undergo a partial -fermentation, and become thinner in their substance. - -The skins, which are now called pelts, are to be immersed in a solution -of alum and common salt in water; in the proportion of 120 skins to -three pounds of alum and five pounds of salt. They are to be much -agitated in this compound saline bath, in order to become firm and -tough. From this bath they are to be removed to another, composed -of bran and water, where they remain until quite pliant by a slight -fermentation. To give their upper surface a gloss, they are to be -trodden in a wooden tub, with a solution of yolks of eggs in water, -previously well beaten up. When this solution has become transparent, -it is a proof that the skins have absorbed the glazing matter. The pelt -may now be said to be converted into leather, which is to be drained -from moisture, hung upon hooks in a warm apartment to dry, and smoothed -over with warm hand-irons. - - * * * * * - -TO TRAP YOUNG MINK.--MINK BREEDING.--Adult minks are almost untamable, -but young ones readily submit to handling, and are easily domesticated. -The time to secure young minks is in May and June, when they begin -to run with their dams. The streams must be quietly watched for mink -trails, and these tracked to the nest. - -When they leave the hole the old one may be shot, and the young ones -secured, or they may be dug out. Those who own a breeding stock of -minks ask high prices for them; but trappers represent to us that it -is an easy matter to get the wild young ones. _Habits._--A successful -breeder says that he does not attempt to tame the wild mink, but only -aims to supply for it in a small space all the necessities of its -natural instincts. He says the mating season commences about the first -of March, and lasts two weeks, never varying much from that date. - -The female carries her young about six weeks. In the minkery, where -diet, water, temperature, etc., are similar with each animal, there is -so little difference in the time of mating and time of bearing young in -different animals, that five out of six litters dropped last spring, -were born within twelve hours of each other. The young are blind from -four to five weeks, but are very active, and playful as kittens. The -mother weans them at from eight to ten weeks old. At four weeks the -mother begins to feed them meat; this they learn to suck before they -have teeth to eat it. - -The nests in which the young are born are lined by the mother with some -soft material, and are made in the hollow of some old stump, or between -the projecting roots of some old tree, and always where it is perfectly -dry. The nest is located near pure running water, which the mother -visits twice every twenty-four hours. She feeds her young on frogs, -fish, birds, mice, crabs, etc., etc. The mink is from birth a pattern -of neatness and cleanliness, and as soon as a nest begins to get foul -and offensive, she takes one of the young in her mouth, and depositing -it in a clean, suitable place, builds a nest about it, and then brings -the balance of the litter. She feeds and cares for them until they are -three and a half or four months old. When the young are weaned, about -the 10th of July, she builds her nest near the water, in which the -young soon learn to play. There are usually four in a litter, though -the number ranges from two to six. Towards fall the mother separates -them into pairs. One pair--or if the number be odd, the odd one--is -left in the nest; the other pair or pairs, she places them often half a -mile from each other, and then seeks new quarters for herself. - -The young soon separate, and each one catches his own frogs, etc. They -do not pair, but the male is a sort of rover and free-lover. Minks are -unsociable, petulant, vicious in play, savage in war. Late in the fall -they establish regular runaways from one stream to another, and usually -under brush-fallen trees, weeds swale, and under banks--anywhere, in -fact, where they can avoid the sunshine, and escape the chances of -observation. The mink is a sure prophet, and just before hard winter -begins, he lays by a store of food for the winter in safe places near -his winter nests, of which he has several. As the snows fall he burrows -under the snow, where he remains until about February, when his supply -of food is exhausted, and he is forced to seek further for food. - - * * * * * - -MANAGEMENT OF.--Mink being by nature solitary, wandering creatures, -being seldom seen in company except during the breeding season, are, -therefore, impossible to be reared successfully, if large numbers are -kept constantly together, therefore their inclosure should be a large -one. - -The male and female should be permitted to be together frequently from -the middle of February until the middle of March. At all other times -keep them entirely separate. The young mink make their appearance about -the first of May. When wild in the woods they will seldom vary five -days from this time, but when kept in confinement there is greater -variation. About this season they should have plenty of fine hay, which -they will carry into their boxes to make nests. A box three or four -feet long and eighteen inches wide is the shape they prefer. It should -be placed as far as possible from the water to prevent the mink from -carrying water and mud into it. - -The young mink when first born are small and delicate, destitute of any -kind of fur, and much resembling young rats. If the old mink is tame -the young ones may be taken out of the nest and handled when they are -three weeks old. They will soon learn to drink milk, and may feed every -day. At five weeks old they may be taken from the mother and put into a -pen by themselves, when they will soon become very playful and pretty, -and make much better mothers than they would if allowed to run with the -old ones. - -The shelter should be in the shape of a long box, 5 or 6 feet wide, -and 3 or 4 feet high, set upon legs, and with a good floor and roof. -Divide it into separate compartments, 6 feet long (or longer would be -better,) the front of each apartment to be furnished with a swinging -door of strong wire screen, with the hinges at the top, and a button or -some kind of fastener at the bottom. A trough 6 inches square, made by -nailing three boards together, should run the whole length of the pen -on the back side; one end of the trough should be made several inches -lower than the other, so that the water can be drawn off. With this -arrangement, the water can be turned in at one end of the trough, and -drawn off and changed as often as desired. The lower end of the trough -should be a little deeper than the other, to prevent the water from -running over. Each apartment is furnished with a box 3 feet long and -eighteen inches wide. On one side of the box and near one end is made a -round hole, 2-1/2 inches in diameter, and provided with a sliding cover -so that by means of a stick it can be opened or closed from the outside. - -This is so the mink can be shut up when the pen is being cleaned -out. On the top of the box and at the other end should be a door -large enough to put in hay for the nest and take out the young. It is -necessary that they have abundance of pure, soft water, fresh air, -desirable shade and plenty of exercise. These conditions secure to the -mink a good quality of dark fur and good health. Brush, weeds, etc., -are allowed to grow in the yard, but not near enough the wall to admit -of their climbing up and out. - -In addition to the above directions for breeding mink, we give the -following experience of a gentleman in Vermont: “I purchased one -female and her litter of five, two males and four females in all, and -constructed a building of rough boards, 10 by 4 feet, for a minkery. -It had a floor tight enough to prevent the escape of the animals, was -properly ventilated, and divided into six apartments, one of which is -an ante-room in which to step from the outside and close the door. -Water is supplied by a lead pipe running in at one side through all the -rooms, and out at the other into a trough where small fish are kept, -and occasionally given to the minks. - -“They were kept together until December the 18th, when the males were -put in an apartment by themselves. On the 10th of March each male was -put in with a female, each pair separate, and after a couple of days, -one of the males was put in with another female, and finally with the -third. They were separated about the 1st of April, each female being -kept alone and supplied with a suitable box, with warm material for a -nest. When it was supposed they were about to bring forth their young, -they were disturbed as little as possible; anything to excite them at -this time, should be avoided, for when irritated, they will sometimes -eat their young. The first female put with the perfect male, brought -forth seven, one of which disappeared after they began to crawl around -out of their nest. The other two females had each a pair, all of which -(but the one mentioned) are now alive, fine, fat, sleek fellows, and -fully grown. They are very easily kept, being fed once a day upon warm -milk with wheat bread crumbs--a quart sufficing for the whole lot, and -once upon fresh meat, care being taken not to over-feed. - -“Any kind of meat and offal that is not too fat will answer. They are -very fond of beef liver, chickens’ heads and entrails, woodchucks -(being careful not to give them the gall or the liver, which is -poisonous), rats, mice, etc. They are more easily cared for than one -hog and much more cheaply kept. Nothing was paid out for meat for them -until after 1st July, when a contract was made with a butcher to leave -a bullock’s head once a week. I am confident that the increase of the -minkery would have been fully one-third more if both the males had -been perfect. I intend to keep them in pairs hereafter. They are not -easily handled, but struggle when caught against their will and exude -the thick fetid substance from glands near the vent. They will bite -severely, but can be handled safely with thick buckskin gloves.” - -[Illustration: THE END.] - - * * * * * - -USEFUL AND INSTRUCTIVE BOOKS. - -HOW TO KEEP AND MANAGE PETS--Giving complete information as to the -manner and method of raising, keeping, taming, breeding, and managing -all kinds of pets; also giving full instructions for making cages, -etc. Fully explained by 28 illustrations, making it the most complete -book of the kind ever published. Price 10 cents. Address Frank Tousey, -publisher, New York. - -HOW TO DO ELECTRICAL TRICKS.--Containing a large collection of -instructive and highly amusing electrical tricks, together with -illustrations. By A. Anderson. Price 10 cents. For sale by all -newsdealers, or sent, post-paid, upon receipt of the price. Address -Frank Tousey, Publisher, New York. - -HOW TO WRITE LETTERS--A wonderful little book, telling you how to write -to your sweetheart, your father, mother, sister, brother, employer; -and, in fact, everybody and anybody you wish to write to. Every young -man and every young lady in the land should have this book. It is for -sale by all newsdealers. Price 10 cents, or sent from this office on -receipt of price. Address Frank Tousey, publisher, New York. - -HOW TO DO PUZZLES--Containing over 300 interesting puzzles and -conundrums with key to same. A complete book. Fully illustrated. By -A. Anderson. Price 10 cents. For sale by all newsdealers, or sent, -post-paid, upon receipt of the price. Address Frank Tousey, Publisher, -New York. - -HOW TO DO 40 TRICKS WITH CARDS--Containing deceptive Card Tricks -as performed by leading conjurers and magicians. Arranged for home -amusement. Fully illustrated. Price 10 cents. Address Frank Tousey, -publisher, New York. - -HOW TO MAKE A MAGIC LANTERN--Containing description of the lantern, -together with its history and invention. Also full directions for its -use and for painting slides. Handsomely illustrated, by John Allen. -Price 10 cents. For sale by all newsdealers in the United States and -Canada, or will be sent to your address, post-paid, on receipt of -price. Address Frank Tousey, publisher, New York. - -HOW TO BECOME AN ACTOR--Containing complete instructions how to make up -for various characters on the stage; together with the duties of the -Stage Manager, Prompter, Scenic Artist and Property Man. By a prominent -Stage Manager. Price 10 cents. Address Frank Tousey, publisher, N. Y. - - * * * * * - -BUY A COPY OF “WILD WEST WEEKLY” CONTAINING - -Stories of Western Life - -By AN OLD SCOUT - -_32 Pages of Splendid Reading Matter. Beautifully Illuminated Covers. -A New One Issued Every Friday. Price 5 Cents._ - -This library gives the daring adventures of a plucky boy among the -cowboys, Indians, miners and soldiers of the Far West. They are the -most dashing romances ever written, and will hold your interest from -beginning to end. - -SEE HOW YOU LIKE THEM - -Glance Over This List: - -No. - -90 Young Wild West’s Indian Scout; or, Arietta and the Pawnee Maiden. - -91 Young Wild West and the “Salted” Mine; or, The Double Game for a -Million. - -92 Young Wild West’s Overland Route; or, The Masked Band of Death Pass. - -93 Young Wild West’s Iron Grip; or, Settling the Cowboy Feud. - -94 Young Wild West’s Last Chance; or, Arietta’s Narrow Escape. - -95 Young Wild West and the Gold Grabbers; or, The Fight for the Widow’s -Claim. - -96 Young Wild West and the Branded Band; or, The Scourge of Skeleton -Skit. - -97 Young Wild West’s Double Danger; or, The Sign of the Secret Seven. - -98 Young Wild West and the Renegade Rustlers; or, Saved by the Sorrel -Stallion. - -99 Young Wild West’s Fandango; or, Arietta Among the Mexicans. - -100 Young Wild West and the Double Deuce; or, The Domino Gang of Denver. - -101 Young Wild West on the Prairie; or, The Trail That Had No End. - -102 Young Wild West and “Missouri Mike”; or, The Worst Man in Wyoming. - -103 Young Wild West at the Golden Gate; or, a Business Trip to ’Frisco. - -104 Young Wild West and the Redskin Raiders; or, Arietta’s Leap for -Life. - -_For sale by all newsdealers or sent to any address on receipt of -price, 5 cents per copy, in money or postage stamps._ - -FRANK TOUSEY, Publisher, 24 Union Square, N. Y. - - * * * * * - -ARE YOU READING - -“Work AND Win” - -IT CONTAINS - -The Great Fred Fearnot Stories - - ISSUED EVERY FRIDAY - 32 PAGES PRICE 5 CENTS - HANDSOME COLORED COVERS - -Each number details the interesting, humorous and startling adventures -of two bright, independent boys. They see everything in life, enjoy -plenty fun and do all the good they can. Don’t miss these stories. - -THEY ARE FINE - -Read the Following Titles: - -No. - -294 Fred Fearnot’s Wall Street Game; or, Fighting the Bucket Shops. - -295 Fred Fearnot’s Society Circus; or, The Fun That Built a -School-House. - -296 Fred Fearnot’s Wonderful Courage; or, The Mistake of the Train -Robber. - -297 Fred Fearnot’s Friend from India, and the Wonderful Things He Did. - -298 Fred Fearnot and the Poor Widow; or, Making a Mean Man Do Right. - -299 Fred Fearnot’s Cowboys; or, Tackling the Ranch Raiders. - -300 Fred Fearnot and the Money Lenders; or, Breaking Up a Swindling -Gang. - -301 Fred Fearnot’s Gun Club; or, Shooting for a Diamond Cup. - -302 Fred Fearnot and the Braggart; or, Having Fun with an Egotist. - -303 Fred Fearnot’s Fire Brigade; or, Beating the Insurance Frauds. - -304 Fred Fearnot’s Temperance Lectures; or, Fighting Rum and Ruin. - -305 Fred Fearnot and the “Cattle Queen”; or, A Desperate Woman’s Game. - -306 Fred Fearnot and the Boomers; or, The Game that Failed. - -_For sale by all newsdealers or sent to any address on receipt of -price, 5 cents per copy, in money or postage stamps._ - -FRANK TOUSEY, Publisher, 24 Union Square, N. Y. - - * * * * * - -USEFUL AND INSTRUCTIVE BOOKS. - -HOW TO DO THE BLACK ART--Containing a complete description of the -mysteries of Magic and Sleight-of-Hand, together with many wonderful -experiments. By A. Anderson. Illustrated. Price 10 cents. Address Frank -Tousey, publisher, N. Y. - -HOW TO BE A DETECTIVE--By Old King Brady, the world known detective. In -which he lays down some valuable and sensible rules for beginners, and -also relates some adventures and experiences of well-known detectives. -Price 10 cents. For sale by all newsdealers in the United States and -Canada, or sent to your address, post-paid, on receipt of price. -Address Frank Tousey, publisher, New York. - -HOW TO BECOME A CONJURER--Containing tricks with Dominoes, Dice, Cups -and Balls, Hats, etc. Embracing 36 illustrations. By A. Anderson. Price -10 cents. Address Frank Tousey, publisher, New York. - -HOW TO DO MECHANICAL TRICKS--Containing complete instructions for -performing over sixty Mechanical Tricks. By A. Anderson. Fully -illustrated. Price 10 cents. For sale by all newsdealers, or we will -send it by mail, postage free, upon receipt of price. Address Frank -Tousey, Publisher, N. Y. - -HOW TO DO SIXTY TRICKS WITH CARDS--Embracing all of the latest and most -deceptive card tricks with illustrations. By A. Anderson. Price 10 -cents. For sale by all newsdealers, or we will send it to you by mail, -postage free, upon receipt of price. Address Frank Tousey, Publisher, -N. Y. - -HOW TO MAKE ELECTRICAL MACHINES--Containing full directions for making -electrical machines, induction coils, dynamos, and many novel toys to -be worked by electricity. By R. A. R. Bennett. Fully illustrated. Price -10 cents. For sale by all newsdealers in the United States and Canada, -or will be sent to your address, post-paid, on receipt of price. -Address Frank Tousey, publisher, New York. - -HOW TO BECOME A BOWLER--A complete manual of bowling. Containing full -instructions for playing all the standard American and German games, -together with rules and systems of sporting in use by the principal -bowling clubs in the United States. By Bartholomew Batterson. Price 10 -cents. For sale by all newsdealers in the United States and Canada, or -sent to your address, postage free, on receipt of the price. Address -Frank Tousey, publisher, New York. - - * * * * * - -OUR TEN CENT HAND BOOKS. - -USEFUL, INSTRUCTIVE AND AMUSING. - -Containing valuable information on almost every subject, such as -=Writing=, =Speaking=, =Dancing=, =Cooking=; also =Rules of Etiquette=, -=The Art of Ventriloquism=, =Gymnastic Exercises=, and =The Science of -Self-Defense=, =etc.=, =etc.= - -1 Napoleon’s Oraculum and Dream Book. - -2 How to Do Tricks. - -3 How to Flirt. - -4 How to Dance. - -5 How to Make Love. - -6 How to Become an Athlete. - -7 How to Keep Birds. - -8 How to Become a Scientist. - -9 How to Become a Ventriloquist. - -10 How to Box. - -11 How to Write Love Letters. - -12 How to Write Letters to Ladies. - -13 How to Do It; or, Book of Etiquette. - -14 How to Make Candy. - -15 How to Become Rich. - -16 How to Keep a Window Garden. - -17 How to Dress. - -18 How to Become Beautiful. - -19 Frank Tousey’s U. S. Distance Tables, Pocket Companion and Guide. - -20 How to Entertain an Evening Party. - -21 How to Hunt and Fish. - -22 How to Do Second Sight. - -23 How to Explain Dreams. - -24 How to Write Letters to Gentlemen. - -25 How to Become a Gymnast. - -26 How to Row, Sail and Build a Boat. - -27 How to Recite and Book of Recitations. - -28 How to Tell Fortunes. - -29 How to Become an Inventor. - -30 How to Cook. - -31 How to Become a Speaker. - -32 How to Ride a Bicycle. - -33 How to Behave. - -34 How to Fence. - -35 How to Play Games. - -36 How to Solve Conundrums. - -37 How to Keep House. - -38 How to Become Your Own Doctor. - -39 How to Raise Dogs, Poultry, Pigeons and Rabbits. - -40 How to Make and Set Traps. - -41 The Boys of New York End Men’s Joke Book. - -42 The Boys of New York Stump Speaker. - -43 How to Become a Magician. - -44 How to Write in an Album. - -45 The Boys of New York Minstrel Guide and Joke Book. - -46 How to Make and Use Electricity. - -47 How to Break, Ride and Drive a Horse. - -48 How to Build and Sail Canoes. - -49 How to Debate. - -50 How to Stuff Birds and Animals. - -51 How to Do Tricks with Cards. - -52 How to Play Cards. - -53 How to Write Letters. - -54 How to Keep and Manage Pets. - -55 How to Collect Stamps and Coins. - -56 How to Become an Engineer. - -57 How to Make Musical Instruments. - -58 How to Become a Detective. - -59 How to Make a Magic Lantern. - -60 How to Become a Photographer. - -61 How to Become a Bowler. - -62 How to Become a West Point Military Cadet. - -63 How to Become a Naval Cadet. - -64 How to Make Electrical Machines. - -65 Muldoon’s Jokes. - -66 How to Do Puzzles. - -67 How to Do Electrical Tricks. - -68 How to Do Chemical Tricks. - -69 How to Do Sleight of Hand. - -70 How to Make Magic Toys. - -71 How to Do Mechanical Tricks. - -72 How to Do Sixty Tricks with Cards. - -73 How to Do Tricks with Numbers. - -74 How to Write Letters Correctly. - -75 How to Become a Conjuror. - -76 How to Tell Fortunes by the Hand. - -77 How to Do Forty Tricks with Cards. - -78 How to Do the Black Art. - -79 How to Become an Actor - -80 Gus Williams’ Joke Book. - -All the above books are for sale by newsdealers throughout the United -States and Canada, or they will be sent, post-paid, to your address, on -receipt of 10c. each. - -_Send Your Name and Address for Our Latest Illustrated Catalogue._ - -FRANK TOUSEY, Publisher, - -24 UNION SQUARE, NEW YORK. - - - - - * * * * * - - - - -Transcriber’s note: - -Illustrations have been moved to paragraph breaks near where they are -mentioned. - -Punctuation has been made consistent. - -Variations in spelling and hyphenation were retained as they appear in -the original publication, except that obvious typographical errors -have been corrected. - -Changes have been made as follows: - -The notation 1 2 for fractions has been changed to 1/2. - -p. 11: muste la changed to mustela (invest _mustela vulgaris_) - -p. 30: 5 changed to 6 [(Fig. 6). 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