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+This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements,
+metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be
+in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES.
+
+Procedures for determining public domain status are described in
+the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org.
+
+No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in
+jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize
+this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright
+status under the laws that apply to them.
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+Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for
+eBook #50608 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/50608)
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-The Project Gutenberg EBook of Wide World Magazine, by Various
-
-This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most
-other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions
-whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of
-the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at
-www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have
-to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook.
-
-
-
-Title: Wide World Magazine
- Volume XXII, January, 1909, Number 130
-
-Author: Various
-
-Release Date: December 4, 2015 [EBook #50608]
-
-Language: English
-
-Character set encoding: UTF-8
-
-*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK WIDE WORLD MAGAZINE ***
-
-
-
-
-Produced by Victorian/Edwardian Pictorial Magazines,
-Jonathan Ingram, Wayne Hammond, and the Online Distributed
-Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net
-
-
-
-
-
-
-[Illustration: “‘CRACK! CRACK! CRACK!’ CAME THE ANSWER FROM CUTLER’S
-GUN.”
-
-(SEE PAGE 319.)]
-
-
-
-
-THE WIDE WORLD MAGAZINE.
-
- Vol. XXII. JANUARY, 1909. No. 130.
-
-
-
-
-The Beulah County “War.”
-
-BY H. M. VERNON.
-
- One of the most striking characteristics of the Westerner
- is the high regard in which he holds womankind. Even in the
- roughest mining camps a woman is absolutely safe, and is
- treated with a consideration unknown in many more civilized
- centres. This remarkable story illustrates the Westerner’s
- innate chivalry in a very striking fashion. Sooner than drag
- the name of a young schoolmistress into a quarrel, a resident
- of Three Corners, Montana, allowed himself to be made an
- outlaw, and for weeks defied the population of a whole county
- to arrest him, even when a field gun was brought out to shell
- his fastness. How in his extremity the girl he had befriended
- came to his rescue and put an end to this extraordinary “war”
- is graphically told in the narrative.
-
-
-In the extreme western part of the State of Montana, U.S.A., in the
-County of Beulah, lies a little town called Three Corners. At first
-only a junction on the Rio Grande Railway, from which point countless
-thousands of cattle were shipped to all parts of the world, Three
-Corners grew to be a flourishing place. The wooden shanties, gambling
-“joints,” and dance halls gave way to brick buildings, several banks,
-a school, and other signs of progress, as respectable settlers moved
-farther toward the Golden West. Of course, a part of the old town
-remained, and with it a few of the characters typical of a Western “cow
-town.” Among these was a tall, raw-boned man who had drifted West in
-the ‘eighties, settling at Three Corners and opening a gambling-house.
-His name was “Jim” Cutler. He was a man of very few words, but with
-one great failing--he would shoot first and argue afterwards. Yet this
-gambler, who was known and feared far and wide as a “gun-fighter,”
-was at heart the mildest of men, beloved by all the children in the
-town, to whom he gave coppers galore. Furthermore, Cutler would put up
-with all manner of insult from a man under the influence of liquor,
-or from “Tenderfeet” who did not know their danger. Cutler’s shooting
-propensities were directed solely toward avowed “bad men” or those who
-delighted in being known as bullies. In the course of his altercations
-with such characters this tall, raw-boned man--who could, and did,
-“pull his gun” like a streak of lightning--added to the population of
-the local cemetery with a score of six.
-
-Among the new-comers to Three Corners during the rehabilitation of that
-town was a Hebrew named Moses Goldman. This man, a good-looking fellow
-of some twenty-eight years, hailed from New York. He opened a shop,
-and, with the business ability of his race, soon succeeded in making
-it the principal draper’s establishment of the place. Before long,
-however, reports began to circulate that the handsome young Hebrew was
-not quite so respectful in demeanour towards his lady customers as he
-should have been, and, although highly popular with a certain element,
-the major portion of Three Corners’ female population gave Goldman’s
-shop a wide berth.
-
-One Monday morning Jim Cutler, who had been up all night looking after
-the “game” in his establishment, was just leaving the place when a
-young woman, whom he recognised as the schoolmistress, ran up to
-him and said: “Oh, Mr. Cutler, would you mind walking as far as the
-school-house with me?”
-
-Cutler, somewhat astonished, did so, and was gratefully thanked for
-his trouble. After leaving her he walked slowly back to his rooms,
-wondering why he of all men should have been chosen to escort the
-pretty “school ma’am.”
-
-Some days afterwards Cutler, who passed the school on his way to and
-from the Gem Saloon (his place), saw the mistress deliberately cross
-the street just before reaching Goldman’s shop, and continue on her
-way on the other side. He also saw Goldman come to the door and try
-to attract the girl’s attention. When he reached Goldman, the latter;
-twirling his moustache, remarked, laughingly, “Shy girl, that, eh?”
-Cutler looked at the Hebrew for a moment, and then answered quietly, as
-he moved away, “She ain’t your kind.”
-
-Three weeks after this little episode there was a ball at the City
-Hotel, and, naturally, almost the entire youth and beauty of Three
-Corners “turned out.” The City Hotel was just opposite Cutler’s saloon,
-and at about one o’clock the gambler was sitting in a chair outside his
-place, listening to the music, when the schoolmistress and her mother
-left the hotel on their way home. A moment later a man also quitted the
-building and followed them. Presently he stopped the two ladies and
-attempted to converse with them. The younger of the women apparently
-expostulated with him, and then the two went on, leaving him standing
-at the corner. Cutler recognised the solitary figure as that of
-Goldman, the draper, and drew his own conclusions. Next morning Cutler
-made it his business to leave the Gem Saloon just as the schoolmistress
-was passing, and strode up to her.
-
-“Miss Thurloe,” he said, “you were stopped last night on your way home.
-Can I be of any assistance to you? I know you have only your mother to
-protect you.”
-
-The girl gave him a grateful look, and explained that Goldman had
-repeatedly forced his attentions on her. She had done her best to send
-him about his business, but he continually annoyed her, even going
-so far as to enter the school-house, interrupting lessons and making
-himself generally obnoxious.
-
-Cutler smiled grimly during the girl’s hesitating recital, saw her
-safely to her destination, and then went home for a sleep. At three
-o’clock that afternoon he walked leisurely towards the school-house,
-stopped at the fence just by the rear door, and chatted with the boys,
-it being the recess hour. Suddenly, approaching from the opposite
-direction, he beheld Goldman, who walked straight into the school-house
-without having seen the gambler. The latter waited for a few moments,
-then he also entered the building. Reaching the schoolroom, at the end
-of a short hall, he found the door locked, and promptly threw himself
-against it with all his strength. The door gave way with a crash and
-Cutler leapt in, to see the schoolmistress struggling in the arms of
-Goldman. She was fighting like a tigress, but the Jew’s hand, held
-tightly over her mouth, prevented her crying out. Directly Goldman
-beheld the saloon-keeper he released his prisoner, who sank back
-panting upon a chair, and glared savagely at the new-comer. Cutler,
-ignoring him entirely, walked slowly toward the agitated schoolmistress
-and stood still, waiting for her to speak.
-
-Goldman, however, was the first to do so. “Oh, no wonder I’ve no
-chance,” he burst out, viciously; “Cutler’s as lucky in love as he
-usually is at cards.”
-
-Cutler flushed at the gibe, but he said not a word, waiting for the
-girl to speak. Presently, having in a measure recovered herself, she
-rose and approached the gambler. “Mr. Cutler,” she said, unsteadily,
-“this man has insulted me repeatedly. Just now he tried to kiss me by
-force, and I’m afraid I shall have to give up my position here and
-leave Three Corners.”
-
-In a very gentle voice Cutler asked the girl to leave the room for a
-few minutes. After she had gone he turned toward Goldman, who stood
-looking at him defiantly, his arms folded across his chest.
-
-“If you were a man,” he said, sternly, “I’d drop you where you stand,
-but I’m going to teach you a lesson that’ll do you a heap of good.”
-Then, with a sudden bound, he grasped Goldman by the throat, threw him
-across a desk, and, with a three-foot ruler, administered a thrashing
-such as might be given to a recalcitrant schoolboy, only with somewhat
-greater severity. The punishment over, Cutler picked the man up and,
-dragging him across the floor, threw him bodily out of the building.
-Now Goldman was himself a powerful man, but Cutler’s action had been so
-swift and decisive that the Hebrew had practically no chance to offer
-resistance. Once freed from the gambler’s hold, however, he turned
-and flew at his adversary with clenched fists, snarling furiously.
-Cutler stood quite still, and just as the Hebrew came within the proper
-distance his right fist shot out straight from the shoulder. It landed
-square on Goldman’s jaw, and he dropped like a log.
-
-Several of the school-children, attracted by the noise, now crowded
-round, vastly excited. Cutler, having informed Miss Thurloe that he
-believed she would not be further annoyed, but that he would keep an
-eye on “that fool masher,” walked slowly toward the town, leaving the
-vanquished draper lying where he had fallen.
-
-It has been necessary to explain all this in order that readers of THE
-WIDE WORLD MAGAZINE unfamiliar with the ways of the Far West may better
-understand what follows. I have said that the better element had in a
-manner of speaking driven the original settlers at Three Corners to
-new fields. These new-comers looked upon Cutler as an “undesirable.”
-His reputation as a “man-killer” did not appeal to the emigrants from
-the cultured Eastern States, who would gladly have seen him pack up
-and leave the town. Goldman was quite aware of this, so, directly he
-recovered himself, he asked for and obtained a warrant for Cutler’s
-arrest on a charge of assault. The gambler was arraigned before the
-local magistrate, where he steadfastly refused to give any reason for
-the chastisement he had inflicted upon Goldman. The latter immediately
-realized the advantage of Cutler’s chivalrous reluctance to drag
-a woman’s name into the affair, and so swore that the assault was
-entirely unprovoked and committed out of “pure devilry” on Cutler’s
-part. Cutler was fined fifty dollars and severely admonished by the
-Court. Everyone wondered why this acknowledged “bad man” did not
-promptly wreak vengeance on the Hebrew. The gambler, however, desiring
-to protect the name of the school-teacher, said not a word, but paid
-the fine and went about his business as though nothing had happened.
-
-[Illustration: “HE ADMINISTERED A THRASHING SUCH AS MIGHT BE GIVEN TO A
-RECALCITRANT SCHOOLBOY.”]
-
-Some ten days passed, when, one moonlight evening, Cutler came driving
-down the road leading into Three Corners, behind a fast-trotting
-horse. Just as he reached the end of a long field of corn a report
-rang out and his horse dropped, riddled with shot. Cutler jumped from
-his buggy, whipped out his revolver, and made for the corn-field, from
-which the shot had evidently come. He made a thorough search, but
-the tall corn-stalks afforded a secure hiding-place to the would-be
-assassin--for Cutler had no doubt whatever that the shot had been meant
-for him. Reluctantly giving up his quest, he walked back to his saloon
-and sent several men to remove the dead horse and bring in his buggy.
-The next morning he again made his way to the corn-field, and there,
-just by the fence, he found five discarded cigarette ends of a very
-expensive Egyptian brand which he knew to be smoked by only one man
-in Three Corners--Goldman, the draper. Evidently the man had lain in
-wait for a long time. Cutler next climbed over the fence, and was about
-to return when he saw lying in the path a piece of cloth torn from a
-jacket, and on it a button. It looked as though the would-be murderer,
-in jumping the fence, had caught his coat on the barbed wire; at any
-rate, he had left a damning piece of evidence behind him. With the
-cigarette ends and the fragment of cloth in his pocket, Cutler walked
-leisurely up the road into the town and made direct for the shop of
-Moses Goldman.
-
-The draper was standing on a step-ladder arranging some goods on the
-shelves. When the door opened, ringing a small bell, he turned, and
-seeing Cutler jumped down from the ladder. The gambler looked the man
-straight in the eye. “You miserable cur!” he cried, angrily. “You’d
-shoot a man in the dark, would you?”
-
-Goldman, realizing that Cutler had satisfied himself as to the identity
-of his assailant, made as if to draw a revolver. That was the last
-movement he ever made, for the next instant he dropped dead, shot clean
-through the heart.
-
-The gambler waited for a moment to see if the report of the pistol had
-attracted any attention; then, as no one appeared, he quietly left
-the shop, went over to his saloon, placed two revolvers in his belt,
-and filled his pockets with ammunition. Then, taking up a Winchester
-repeating-rifle, he went to the stable, saddled his horse, and after a
-few words with his bartender rode out of Three Corners in a westerly
-direction.
-
-It was not long after his departure before the entire town was in
-an uproar. Moses Goldman, the energetic draper, had been found
-shot--killed in his own shop by Jim Cutler. The latter had been seen
-entering Goldman’s establishment by several persons, and the shot
-had been heard by people living above the store, who afterwards saw
-Cutler leaving. Sheriff Benson, accompanied by two deputies, promptly
-called at the Gem Saloon, but the officer was a trifle late, for Cutler
-was by that time some miles distant. Lest it should be thought that
-Cutler had made his escape through cowardice it may be best to explain
-at once, perhaps, that this was not the case. The man realized that
-should he be apprehended the name of Miss Thurloe must necessarily
-figure prominently in the matter. Strange as it may seem, this six-foot
-gambler, knowing no better, believed that by “making himself scarce” he
-was protecting that lady’s good name. This was a mistake, undoubtedly,
-but the fact remains that he made it.
-
-It happened that Rufe Benson, Sheriff of Beulah County, was a sworn
-enemy of Cutler’s, for the latter some years before had taken the law
-into his own hands and at the point of his gun liberated a prisoner
-whom he believed to be innocent, and who was eventually proved to be
-so. Benson now formed a posse of some twenty armed men, and there began
-a man-hunt which lasted, so far as this particular posse was concerned,
-for a fortnight. They were then reinforced by a body of “Rangers,”
-some fifty strong, who in turn found it necessary to call to their
-assistance a body of militia. All these officers were ably assisted by
-the citizens and residents of Beulah County, altogether some thousand
-strong, and yet Jim Cutler proved more than their match. Benson’s men
-trailed the fugitive to Kerry’s ranch, some six miles out; from here
-he had gone north-west toward the Rio Grande. He was mounted on a
-thoroughbred--as were all the men, for that matter--but six miles was
-a long start in a case like this, and should the hunted man once reach
-the mountains--well, there might be some trouble in getting at him.
-The telegraph was put into operation, and a circle some ten miles in
-circumference drawn around Cutler. When this cordon closed in, however,
-they failed to find the gambler amongst them, but they _did_ find two
-self-appointed “man-hunters” lying where they had fallen to the deadly
-aim of Jim Cutler’s repeating-rifle.
-
-From every town for miles around amateur detectives joined the hunt,
-but no trace could be found of Cutler beyond the Moulin River, a tiny
-stream only some twenty feet wide, so the rivulet was dammed and the
-water drained off for miles, so as to discover, if possible, whether
-Cutler had ridden up or down stream. While one party of men were doing
-this, others rode in all directions, searched the ranches, and notified
-every town by telegraph to keep a look-out for the slayer of Moses
-Goldman. More and more people joined in the hunt, but for some days,
-in the slang of the West, “there was nothing doing.” Then, early one
-morning, two horsemen came galloping towards Benson’s camp, and one of
-the men, dismounting, delivered a message to the effect that Cutler had
-been seen at McPherson’s ranch, some eleven miles north-west, where
-he had informed Mr. McPherson that he had not the slightest intention
-of taking further life unless driven to it, and that, if Benson would
-call in all his men, he (Cutler) would promise to give himself up in a
-fortnight’s time. (It was afterwards learned that he intended in the
-interval to communicate with Miss Thurloe and arrange a story, leaving
-her name entirely out of the matter.) Benson, however, was on his
-mettle, and so refused to parley with his quarry.
-
-“If Jim Cutler thinks he can defy the law and officers of this county,
-he is mightily mistaken,” he said, “and we’re going to take him, dead
-or alive.” This ultimatum duly reached Cutler through “non-combatant”
-friends, whereupon he smiled grimly. Being now outlawed, it was
-impossible for Cutler’s friends to assist him without making themselves
-amenable to the law, so the hunted man demanded and secured everything
-he required at the point of the pistol.
-
-Within fourteen days thereafter nine men who had attempted to interfere
-with the escaping gambler paid for their foolhardiness with their
-lives, and all the time, little by little, Cutler was getting closer
-to the mountains, whose shelter meant so much to him. Sometimes hidden
-for hours in a haystack, or lying flat under the rafters of a barn
-loft, the fugitive moved on his way. The main body of pursuers often
-got within gun-shot of him, but luck favoured the man, and he always
-managed to find cover just in time. Finally, completely worn out--he
-had ridden two horses to death and abandoned others commandeered for
-the time being--Cutler reached the foot of the scrub hills or little
-range which lay between him and his goal. Here, for the first time, he
-came in contact with a number of the “man-hunters.” “Lon” Masters--a
-noted character in Montana, and himself a dead shot--accompanied by
-eight cowboys, suddenly appeared over a rise in the ground. Cutler, on
-foot, saw them coming. He dropped on one knee and his rifle flew to his
-shoulder. The horsemen drew rein, and Masters, making a trumpet of his
-hands, shouted, “Don’t be a fool, Jim; you’re sure to be caught sooner
-or later. Let me take you, and I’ll promise no harm shall come to you.
-You know my word.”
-
-[Illustration: TABLE ROCK, CUTLER’S STRONGHOLD IN BEULAH COUNTY. _From
-a Photograph._]
-
-“Can’t do it, Lon,” Cutler shouted back. “If they give me ten days
-without interference I’ll give myself up--you know _my_ word.”
-
-“Jim,” responded Masters, “if you don’t drop your gun we shall have to
-fire.”
-
-“Crack! crack! crack!” came the answer from Cutler’s gun, Masters and
-two others of the party being hit. The remainder now urged their horses
-forward, but, as first one and then another rider was “winged” by the
-desperate man in front of them, the remainder decided that they had
-urgent business elsewhere, and rode back for reinforcements.
-
-At last, after a weary night’s climb, Cutler reached the place he had
-been making for. He had not slept more than an hour or two for days,
-and so, secure for a time at least--for no one could climb these hills
-quicker than he had done--the worn-out man dropped in a heap. Cutler’s
-hiding place was a barren ledge, some fifty yards in extent, the only
-approach thereto being the bridle-path by which he had come. Two, or
-at most three, at a time was the only formation in which his pursuers
-could get anywhere near him, and with Cutler’s knowledge of the use
-of firearms this was a ticklish undertaking, to say the least of it.
-Moreover, he could see anyone approaching along the valley for a great
-distance. There was plenty of water a little distance down the path,
-Cutler had sufficient food with him to last for a week, and he felt he
-could “make a get-away” during this time.
-
-The erstwhile gambler awoke when the sun was high in the heavens; he
-felt lame and sore all over. Walking towards the edge of the ledge he
-saw, away in the distance, a large party of horsemen spread out over
-a great area. Cutler went down the path, bathed his face and arms in
-the cool spring water, and took a long drink; then, returning above,
-he sat down and leisurely ate from his store of dried beef, biscuits,
-and corn bread. At midday the approaching horsemen were in full view,
-and Cutler saw that they had come with prairie wagons, containing camp
-paraphernalia, evidently prepared for a siege, for they knew as well as
-he did himself of the hiding-place where he had taken refuge. Soon the
-riders came to a halt and Cutler laughed as he saw others coming from
-all directions, evidently anxious to be “in at the death.” It looked
-rather a big camp to the solitary figure high in the air, but numbers
-meant nothing, only--well, his ammunition would give out sooner or
-later. Then, of course, would come capture--but he wouldn’t look that
-far ahead.
-
-During the afternoon several men approached, one of them displaying a
-white handkerchief, which he waved to and fro. When the men reached
-the bottom of the hill they dismounted and one made his way slowly up,
-shouting now and again, “It’s me, Jim--Joe Ludlow.” Cutler made his
-way down the path and, suddenly coming upon Ludlow, ordered him to
-throw up his hands. The man did so, saying, “Jim, you and I have been
-friends for fifteen years; believe me, I’m unarmed; I want to talk to
-you--trust me.” Thereupon Cutler lowered his rifle, and the two men
-shook hands. Then followed a long confab, during which Ludlow did his
-utmost to get Cutler to surrender. He said Sheriff Benson was prepared
-to starve Cutler out, or get him at all costs. It would only mean loss
-of life and must eventually result in the fugitive’s capture. Ludlow
-said that he, with half-a-dozen “pals,” would assure Cutler a safe
-return to Three Corners, sending Benson and all the rest on ahead. Then
-Cutler could stand his trial, and, with a good lawyer from Butte to
-defend him, would no doubt stand a chance of some sort.
-
-Cutler listened patiently; then he shook his head.
-
-“I know what’s coming to me, Joe,” he said; “they have been after me
-for years in a quiet way. Now they want my life, but they sha’n’t have
-it--at least not until I’ve paved the way with a few of them.”
-
-Ludlow was a very decent sort of fellow, and he tried his utmost to
-convince Cutler that his argument was a good one. Cutler then took
-the man into his confidence, and, Ludlow promising not to say a word
-to those below, he was told the whole story--told of Miss Thurloe’s
-complaints, the episode at the school-house, the shooting of Cutler’s
-horse, and everything.
-
-“Well, I’m jiggered!” cried Ludlow, when the tale was finished. “Why
-didn’t you let us know this in the first place?” He then informed
-the gambler that he would ride back to Three Corners and explain the
-situation to the schoolmistress. She had only to tell her story to the
-judge, he said, and it was a certainty he would interfere in some way.
-Cutler demurred, but Ludlow bluntly told him to “go to h----; he wasn’t
-going to see a good man hounded to death.” With that, turning on his
-heel, he left without another word.
-
-Going back to the camp, Ludlow informed Sheriff Benson that under no
-circumstances ought he to attempt to take Cutler, and asked him to
-await his return from Three Corners. Benson replied, “I want none of
-your conversation, Ludlow; Cutler is a downright murderer, and I mean
-to have him.”
-
-Ludlow, disdaining further argument, rode off at full speed toward the
-little town where all the trouble had occurred.
-
-Not knowing just what card Ludlow had up his sleeve, the sheriff
-decided to make quick work of Cutler’s capture. He therefore sent a
-party of deputies to Malvern, the nearest telegraph station, and in
-the name of the law asked the county militia to send him some men with
-a mountain gun, the property of private individuals who practised
-soldiering as a pastime. Each State in America, it may be said in
-passing, possesses several such regiments, which are available in
-war-time, although in no way a part of the Government organization, and
-having no connection with the State militia. It would have been useless
-to attempt to dislodge Cutler as matters stood, but Benson believed
-that a few shots from a cannon might have the desired effect. When his
-message was received at Malvern it created a sensation. Business was
-for the nonce neglected and everybody--men, women, and children--made
-their way toward the sheriffs camp at Table Hill.
-
-Several attempts were made to parley with Cutler, without success, and
-so three days went by. On the afternoon of the fourth day the refugee
-on the rock was thunderstruck to see a body of soldiers approaching
-from the south, with a field gun hauled by four horses. He did not
-know whether to laugh or to regard this seriously. Surely the officers
-of the law would not resort to bombarding him with a cannon? Soon the
-soldiers reached the camp, and about an hour later Cutler saw that the
-gun, a howitzer, was being trained on the hill where he lay enjoying a
-smoke. There was no chance of his getting away other than by the path
-by which he had come. Behind him there was a sheer drop of hundreds of
-feet into the gully far below. True, he could descend some distance
-down the mountain-side, but if the besiegers really meant business this
-would not help him much. Nothing was done that day, but Cutler kept
-vigilant watch all through the night. He had regularly built a huge
-fire some way down the mountain-side, which was protected by trees to
-some extent, but lit up the path for a considerable distance.
-
-[Illustration: “IF YOU SO MUCH AS WINK YOUR EYE I’LL PUT A HOLE IN
-YOU.”]
-
-The next morning a party numbering a dozen came toward the hill again
-bearing a white flag. They stopped some distance off, one man only
-continuing--Benson, the Sheriff of Beulah County, himself. Cutler
-allowed him to approach much nearer than had Ludlow; then he covered
-the advancing sheriff with his rifle.
-
-“Cutler, if we haven’t rushed this place,” said Benson, “it is only
-because I did not want to sacrifice human lives, knowing full well that
-sooner or later you must give up. I know you are on the square, so I’ve
-come up unarmed, being sure you wouldn’t take advantage of the white
-flag. I’m only doing my duty. I give you this chance to come back with
-me, otherwise I’m afraid they’ll blow this place up and you with it.”
-
-“Regular war, isn’t it?” replied Cutler, smilingly.
-
-“Looks like it,” admitted the sheriff.
-
-“Well, seeing you are trying that game, I’ll just do a little in the
-war line myself,” said Cutler. “You walk up this path towards me, and
-if you so much as wink your eye I’ll put a hole in you that a tramcar
-could go through!”
-
-The sheriff could hardly believe his ears. “Don’t be a fool, Cutler,”
-he said, angrily.
-
-“Never mind about my being a fool; you do as you’re told or I’ll drop
-you quick.”
-
-Benson evidently had no doubts about the matter, for, though beside
-himself with rage, he promptly did as Cutler ordered. The sheriff
-was forced to walk ahead, and no doubt, had his captor been almost
-any other man than Jim Cutler, there would have been one big fight
-on Table Hill, gun or no gun, but Benson knew that Cutler would do
-just as he said he would. Arrived at the top, Benson was forced to
-write a note saying that he was a captive, and that perhaps it would
-be just as well not to fire the cannon in the direction it was now
-trained. Furthermore, one man was to approach the hill with food,
-whisky, and tobacco. The note was then secured to a large stone by the
-aid of Sheriff Benson’s braces, and while Cutler “stood by” Benson
-was ordered to throw this stone toward the deputy in charge of the
-waiting horsemen below. This man, or one of those with him, picked up
-the stone, and read the message to the others. There was a great laugh
-below--plainly heard by the two men on the ledge--and, needless to
-say, the merriment of his assistants did not add to Benson’s peace of
-mind. Cutler now laid his rifle down, first having drawn a six-shooter.
-Then, approaching Benson, he searched him for concealed firearms, but
-the sheriff was unarmed. The latter was now told to sit down and make
-himself comfortable at the opening which led to the path, Cutler being
-thereby able to watch both his prisoner and the approach from below.
-Soon a solitary figure came from the camp, carrying the food “ordered.”
-It was brought as near as Cutler permitted it to be, and then Benson,
-under cover of the rifle, was sent to fetch it. It looked for a moment
-as though there might be a fight after all, but Cutler’s business-like
-demeanour soon caused his prisoner to change his mind.
-
-With the food there was a note, reading, “Are we to wait for you or
-not?” This did not appeal to the sheriff’s sense of humour, and he tore
-the paper into shreds.
-
-Just at sundown a large cloud of dust was noticed in the distance,
-which soon turned out to be a number of mounted men with a wagon, or
-“prairie schooner.” The new-comers were presently merged with those in
-camp, and not long afterwards two men, escorting a woman, rode slowly
-toward Table Hill. Again the white flag was raised, and a voice shouted
-from below, “Hi, Jim, it’s me--Ludlow.”
-
-Cutler permitted his friend to approach, and when he gained the ledge
-Ludlow had a hard struggle to restrain his laughter at the unfortunate
-sheriff’s predicament.
-
-“I’ve brought some news for you, Jim,” said Ludlow. “That school-ma’am
-is a brick, and no mistake. When I told her how things stood, she came
-right to the front, and not only saw Judge Nolan, but drove twenty
-miles to see Governor Hill, and here’s the result.”
-
-Ludlow then handed Sheriff Benson an official communication paroling
-Cutler in his own recognizances pending investigation of Miss Thurloe’s
-story. Western men are nothing if not intensely chivalrous, and, if
-this girl’s story was correct, Cutler, in their estimation, deserved,
-not death, but a medal.
-
-The amazed sheriff scratched his head and Cutler seemed undecided, but
-Ludlow grasped his hand eagerly. “Come on, old fellow, down to the
-sea-level,” he cried. This broke the tension, and all three men smiled.
-
-“There is nothing for me to do but obey this, Cutler,” said the
-sheriff, slowly; “but I’ll tell you straight I don’t feel like doing
-it.”
-
-Ludlow turned to Benson and informed him that Judge Nolan had made
-him a Court officer, the tenure of his office being thirty days, and
-that he would brook no interference from Benson or anyone else. That
-settled it. The trio walked down the path, where Miss Thurloe, with
-tears in her eyes, thanked Cutler for his brave and manly action on her
-behalf. She said that she had reason to believe he would be acquitted,
-and that, as no warrant had been issued for his arrest until after he
-had shot the men who had attempted to stop him, it must be a case of
-self-defence.
-
-Cutler was received with cheers by the crowd in camp--the same men
-who were thirsting for his blood an hour before--and soon everybody
-was seeking the nearest way home, and the scene of action was
-shortly deserted. It is not possible to chronicle that Jim Cutler
-was triumphantly acquitted at his trial. His character went strongly
-against him--that is to say, the fact that he had previously figured in
-“shooting scrapes”--but, nevertheless, his sentence was a comparatively
-light one. The State’s attorney (analogous to counsel for the Crown)
-laid great stress on the fact of Cutler’s having visited Goldman’s
-shop, obviously seeking trouble, when he should have reported the
-attempt on his life to the authorities. He was sentenced to five years
-in the State prison, but was pardoned at the expiration of eleven
-months. He is now living in Butte, the capital of the State of Montana,
-where he has opened a saloon. Miss Thurloe left Three Corners, and is
-believed to be teaching in Pittsburg, U.S.A.
-
-The local newspapers poked much fun at the soldiers who took their
-cannon miles out to bombard what they jocularly called “a one-man
-army”; but all the same they meant business, and had matters not ended
-as they did there would have been a change in the landscape just there,
-for the top of Table Hill would in all probability have been blown to
-pieces, and Jim Cutler with it.
-
-[Illustration]
-
-
-
-
-Photographing a Volcano in Eruption.
-
-BY FRANK DAVEY.
-
- A vivid description of a photographer’s adventures in securing
- pictures of the eruption of Makuaweoweo, in Hawaii. With pen
- and camera Mr. Davey depicts the awe inspiring grandeur of
- the lake of fire in the crater of Mauna Loa, the pyrotechnic
- display afforded by the active cone on the mountain-side, and
- the horrors of night amid the lava-wastes, where death menaced
- the party on every hand.
-
-
-On Tuesday, July 1, 1899, reports reached Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands,
-that the volcano of Makuaweoweo, situated at the summit of Mauna Loa,
-thirteen thousand six hundred and seventy-five feet high, on the island
-of Hawaii, had burst forth with all the fury of years gone by. I was
-anxious to get some photographs of the eruption if possible, and so
-made all the haste I could to get my paraphernalia together and catch
-the steamer _W. H. Hall_, bound for Hawaii.
-
-[Illustration: “PAHOEHOE” LAVA, WHICH APPEARS AS THOUGH IT HAD COOLED
-WHILE FLOWING QUIETLY.
-
-_From a Photograph._]
-
-I left with the intention of reaching the scene of action from the
-Kau side of the island, but when, upon arriving at Kailua, Kona, I
-telegraphed to Mr. N. S. Monsarrat, at Kapapalu, I found that he had a
-house full of guests bent on the same journey, and that all his horses
-had been engaged. Rather than lose time, therefore, I decided to take
-the most difficult route of all--right over the great mountain from the
-Kona side. The obstacles to be overcome may perhaps be imagined when I
-state that Mauna Loa is a volcanic mountain, nearly fourteen thousand
-feet high, and that one has to make one’s way for the entire distance
-over every kind of lava formation.
-
-[Illustration: “A. A.” LAVA, WHICH LOOKS AS THOUGH IT HAD SOLIDIFIED
-WHILE TOSSING LIKE A SEA IN A STORM AND THEN BEEN BROKEN UP BY
-EARTHQUAKES. [_From a Photograph_.]
-
-It was with great difficulty that I managed to get horses and mules
-from the natives, who knew the condition of the country, for the
-animals inevitably get badly knocked about, their legs being terribly
-cut by the lava, which is divided into two classes--“Pahoehoe” and
-“A. A.” The former term is applied to tracts of comparatively smooth
-lava, which appears as though it had cooled while flowing quietly; the
-latter is applied to stretches of broken lava which seem to have cooled
-when tossing like an ocean in a bad storm, and to have afterwards been
-broken up by earthquakes. No words of description can convey an idea
-of its roughness and hardness, which may be faintly realized from an
-inspection of the above photograph.
-
-During the time I was hunting for horses a number of gentlemen arrived
-and expressed their desire to join me in the expedition. I was only too
-pleased to have their company, so five travellers threw in their lot
-with me: Professor Ingalls, Colonel McCarthy, and Messrs. Sterns Buck,
-J. Ballard, and H. C. Klugel. These, with three guides, completed our
-party.
-
-We were up early the next morning. The first part of the journey was
-one of the most delightful rides I ever had. We rode for hours through
-magnificent tropical growths. There were giant ferns, some of which
-must have been thirty or forty feet high and three feet in diameter,
-groves of guavas, coco-nuts, and other fruits, miles of wild mint and
-bright-coloured flowers, and orchids of most delicate shapes.
-
-At dusk we reached the edge of the timber-line, in a drenching rain,
-a downpour such as is experienced only in the tropics, where the rain
-descends in sheets. We ate our supper and then spent the night huddled
-miserably together, trying in vain to keep dry.
-
-We resumed our journey at daybreak, over the most terrible country that
-can be imagined. The sharp edges of the lava cut through our stout
-boots like broken glass, and the poor animals suffered greatly. Still,
-however, we persevered, and finally reached the summit just as it was
-getting dark. Near the centre of the mountain-top an area of about four
-square miles sinks to a depth of one thousand feet. This is the great
-crater of Makuaweoweo, which we had endured so much to see.
-
-As I stood there in the cold, in the midst of those cheerless and
-God-forsaken wastes, I gazed down with speechless awe upon the
-untrammelled frolics of the God of Fire. The tempest-tossed lake of
-molten lava below the rim of the great cauldron was a typical workshop
-of Vulcan. The face of the lake of liquid fire alternated continually
-between black and white, like molten iron in a furnace. Oxidation
-and cooling of the fiery fluid would blacken the surface with a pall
-that covered it in darkest gloom; then a trembling, caused by further
-subterranean outbursts of steam, would break this ice-like oxide into a
-fretwork of tens of thousands of incandescent cracks, lighting up the
-smoke-charged pit with a fierce glare. Another moment, and in different
-parts of the lake geysers of fire of every imaginable colour would rise
-like fountains in a public garden.
-
-[Illustration: THE AUTHOR SURVEYING THE CRATER OF MAKUAWEOWEO FROM A
-PINNACLE OF LAVA.
-
-_From a Photograph._]
-
-The great forbidding-looking walls of this “home of everlasting fire”
-sparkled with the unusual light, and then, as the spouts of flame died
-away, the surface would again turn black, leaving the whole mass to all
-appearances dead.
-
-We found that the worst outbreak was about five thousand feet farther
-down the mountain-side. Some of our party were seized with such a
-sickness of horror at the crater’s edge that they rolled themselves
-up in their blankets and refused to look down upon this fiery
-maelstrom--and that after two days of arduous effort to reach a point
-of view!
-
-When the time came for sleep, another man and I turned into a
-“blowhole” in the lava; it was an immense bubble that had cooled
-and left an opening so that we could crawl in. We little thought
-that there was another hole at the other end, and the piercing wind
-blew through this like a funnel; but we had to stay there, for it is
-dangerous to wander about over the rifts and chasms of jagged lava in
-the darkness. Here, in this strange bed-chamber, we slept, or tried
-to sleep--shivering and shuddering through the chilly solitude of the
-night in those desolate mountain wastes.
-
-[Illustration: THE CRATER OF MAKUAWEOWEO, SHOWING THE AWFUL LAKE OF
-LIQUID FIRE.
-
-_From a Photograph._]
-
-Walking across the congealed masses of lava next morning, one began to
-think that at any moment one was liable to drop through to the very
-gates of Hades and be precipitated to the most horrible of deaths.
-Underneath one was a bottomless abyss of mud, sulphur, and rock; and
-to contemplate being cast into that fearsome-looking lake of fire and
-brimstone was not at all comfortable. The Biblical description of hell
-does not convey even a faint idea of that terrible lake of fire below
-us, which appeared to be fretting and fuming as though anxious to get
-loose and destroy everything in its path. The crater of Makuaweoweo at
-that time, without doubt, afforded the spectator a more awe-inspiring
-display of the forces of Nature than has been granted to man elsewhere
-on earth without the sacrifice of life.
-
-[Illustration: THE AUTHOR AND HIS COMPANIONS AS THEY APPEARED JUST
-BEFORE LEAVING THEIR HORSES TO VISIT THE WORST OUTBREAK.
-
-_From a Photograph._]
-
-Soon after daylight we prepared for the descent to the point that was
-throwing out molten lava at a white heat. It was practically impossible
-to take the horses farther, so we tethered them to stones near the
-yawning depths of Makuaweoweo, and left one of the guides to look after
-them. We were very thirsty, but it was some time before we could find
-water, though snow and ice were plentiful. Farther down, however, we
-discovered water in a deep crack in the lava, filled the canteens,
-and started on our downward journey. I was suffering from mountain
-sickness; my head felt as if it would burst and my stomach was upside
-down. We stumbled along with difficulty for about two miles, when I had
-to get the assistance of Mr. Buck to carry my camera. Two of our party
-who had started out in advance gave it up and returned--they could not
-stand the strain of the rough travelling. This left but four of us,
-with two guides.
-
-Presently we reached a cone where the lava had piled up to the height
-of about one hundred feet, then, bursting out at the side, disappeared
-into the ground, to reappear about a quarter of a mile farther down
-and repeat its action. These cones averaged two hundred feet in width
-at the base and one hundred feet in height, and we passed five “dead”
-ones. A sixth was still smoking, but was not active. Two of the party
-tried to climb to the top of this cone, but were unable to do so.
-
-We then pushed on to cone number seven, which was belching forth huge
-volumes of steam and sulphur. The fumes, most fortunately, were being
-blown away from us. At this stage one of the guides refused to go any
-farther; it was too dangerous, he said, so he proceeded to retrace his
-steps, while we others continued our journey toward cone number eight.
-This was the last and largest, and was, I should estimate, about two
-hundred feet high; in fact, a veritable miniature volcano, spouting
-red-hot lava a hundred feet in the air with a ripping boom that could
-be heard for miles. Boulders that must have weighed a ton were being
-hurled high into the air as if shot from a cannon. Others followed
-to meet those coming down, and as they met they burst like explosive
-shells, scattering molten matter on all sides. This flowed down the
-incline in cascades like water, showing red, yellow, blue, and all the
-colours of the rainbow.
-
-[Illustration: TWO OF THE “DEAD” CONES PASSED BY THE PARTY.
-
-_From a Photograph._]
-
-It is impossible to describe the grandeur of the effect, and a
-knowledge of the force that was causing the display made one feel very
-small indeed. Some of the ejected masses were as large as a horse, and
-when they were belched forth were at a white heat. They went so high
-that they had time to cool and return to the vortex black.
-
-It was three o’clock in the afternoon when we reached this wonderful
-display. It had taken us nine hours to reach the volcano, and we were
-thirsty and well-nigh exhausted. We could not approach very near on
-account of the heat, but I made some photographic exposures, and then
-sat for an hour watching the wonderful sight. As the sun went down the
-magnificence of the scene increased. The ground shook at each explosion
-to such an extent as to make us sick. We found quantities of what is
-known as “Pele’s hair.”[1] It is caused by the wind blowing the liquid
-lava through the air, forming fine threads like human hair.
-
-[Footnote 1: Pele, according to the native legends, is the goddess of
-the volcano, and dwells in the crater.]
-
-As we approached cone number seven on our return journey the wind
-changed, and to our consternation we saw a cloud of sulphur blowing
-right across our path. These masses of vapour are so impregnated with
-sulphur and poisonous gases that it is impossible for any living thing
-to exist among them, and to get caught in their midst means death.
-Alarmed, we started to go around the other side, but found the lava was
-too hot; the surface was cool, but there was living fire beneath, and
-we dared not proceed. We kept on until the lava began to move under our
-feet, and then beat a retreat to face the sulphur again, for it was
-better to be smothered to death than slowly roasted.
-
-[Illustration: CONE “NUMBER SEVEN”--IT WAS ABOUT TWO HUNDRED FEET HIGH,
-A MINIATURE VOLCANO, SPOUTING RED-HOT LAVA AND GIANT BOULDERS WITH A
-ROAR THAT COULD BE HEARD FOR MILES. _From a Photograph._]
-
-We made a number of attempts to pass that deadly barrier of vapour, but
-were forced to return each time, nearly suffocated. It looked as though
-we should soon be choked to death--the fire at the back of us, the
-sulphur in front. Professor Ingalls remarked that we had better make
-the best of our time by taking notes, and then prepare for the worst.
-Just at this critical moment I happened to turn round and saw an arch,
-as it were, in the sulphur smoke, where the wind was blowing it up from
-the ground.
-
-“Look! look!” I shouted, in great excitement. “Run for it!” And how
-we ran! Providence gave us the chance and fear lent us strength, for
-under ordinary circumstances we could never have run as we did, owing
-to the condition of our feet. The danger, however, made us forget the
-pain, and we ran for dear life. We had scarcely got through that arch
-of clear air when down came the cloud again, as though lowered by some
-great power. The only guide who had stayed with us fell exhausted at
-the edge of the vapour-mass. How I managed to drag him along I do not
-know; I hardly realized what I was doing, but I managed to save him.
-
-Once past the danger-point we crawled along at our best pace, for at
-any moment the wind might turn in our direction, when we should be
-again overtaken by that terrible death-cloud. I had left my camera
-behind in our wild flight, but fortunately I saved several plates.
-
-It was now night, and the only light we had was the lurid glare from
-the volcano. Suddenly, as we stumbled painfully along, we came upon
-a man sitting by the side of a dead cone; it was the guide who had
-returned. He said he did not expect to see us alive again, for he had
-seen the deadly smoke blow across the mountain.
-
-If it had not been for the light from the volcano we should undoubtedly
-have perished of cold and thirst, as we should have been compelled to
-stop walking. As it was, we dared not halt for any length of time, or
-we should not have had warmth enough to keep the blood circulating.
-All that night we crawled over that terrible lava. We fell down at
-intervals of about twenty feet, often breaking through the black crust,
-sometimes up to our waists, cutting ourselves on the sharp projections
-until our hands and legs were woefully lacerated. Almost as soon as
-we fell we dropped asleep; then, as we got colder, we would wake up
-and force ourselves on again for a few dozen yards or so, only to fall
-asleep, wake, and struggle up once more. The agony of the situation and
-the pain of our wounds were enough to make a man go insane.
-
-At last it began to get light, but still we had come across no water,
-and that in our canteens had long since been exhausted. Very few
-people, fortunately, know what it means to have their throats and lips
-so swollen and cracked that they are bleeding for want of water. I
-could scarcely speak. We hunted the depths and crevices of the lava,
-sometimes going down ten or fifteen feet, looking for water, only to be
-disappointed again and again. At last I got so weak that Mr. Buck had
-to take my package of plates off my back, where I had tied them.
-
-Suddenly I saw a break in the lava nearly full of beautiful water. I
-pulled Mr. Buck’s arm, pointing to it, and mumbled, “Water.” Slowly he
-pulled off his coat and started to climb down the crack. It was about
-eight feet wide, narrowing to three. I leaned over the side, holding
-the canteen for Mr. Buck to fill. He went down a few feet, and then
-stopped. I motioned to him to fill the bottle, croaking, “Water.” He
-did not look around, but mumbled, “I see no water,” as if in a dream.
-Picking up a piece of lava, I tossed it down and cried hoarsely,
-“_There_ is the water.” But to my astonishment the pebble went down,
-down, down, out of sight, with no sound of a splash, into a fathomless
-abyss. The crevice was so deep that we could not see the bottom, and
-the shock of the discovery made me faint. How Sterns Buck managed to
-return he does not remember; it is a wonder he did not fall, to be
-mangled upon the sharp corners of lava.
-
-I came to my senses dazed and almost bewildered, and Buck and I sat
-motionless for some time staring at each other. After a time we
-scrambled on again until we came upon the guide sitting upon the edge
-of a high crack, eating frozen snow, and tearing at it with his teeth
-like a hungry dog. We followed his example, not without pain, but the
-snow tasted good.
-
-Some of the party who had previously returned met us near the summit
-with coffee. When they saw us coming they got things ready so as to
-make us as comfortable as possible. After washing our lacerated hands
-and feet we took a good sleep, and awoke much refreshed. The journey
-home was, comparatively speaking, easy, but the memory of that night
-amidst the lava will last me to my dying day.
-
-
-
-
-[Illustration: Our Leopard Hunt.]
-
-BY THOMAS B. MARSHALL.
-
- An exciting story told by a former official of the Gold Coast
- Government. With a friend and some natives he went out to shoot
- a marauding leopard. They accomplished their mission, but
- before the day was over one and all of the party had received a
- good deal more than they bargained for.
-
-
-In 1899, while in the service of the Gold Coast Government, and
-stationed at Kumasi, I received orders “per bearer, who will accompany
-you,” to proceed to a point on Volta not far south of where it
-debouches from among the Saraga Hills. “The bearer,” a nice young
-fellow called Strange, was newly arrived in the colony, and his
-pleasant home gossip was not less welcome to me than my information
-about the country we were in was to him. Our rough forest journey,
-then, passed as pleasantly as such journeys can, and by the time we
-arrived at our destination we were the best of friends.
-
-Akroful, a town of about seven hundred inhabitants, was the nearest
-place of any size to the spot where we pitched our camp, and we were
-soon on good terms with its headman, Otibu Daku, and his son, Dansani,
-both of whom put us in the way of some good shooting.
-
-We had been in this place about a fortnight, when we began to be
-annoyed by the depredations of a marauding leopard, who took to
-visiting our live-stock pens, and at last we decided to lie in wait
-for him. I took the first watch until a snake crawled over my legs;
-then I went to bed. It was a harmless one, but it reminded me of the
-need of precaution, so next night found our lair surrounded by a very
-uninviting floor of cactus leaves.
-
-The fourth night after our vigil commenced Strange succeeded in
-wounding our sell-invited guest, and we determined to track him down
-as soon as it was light. Otibu Daku and his son willingly agreed to
-help us; and I took, in addition, two of my own men who would, I
-knew, “stand fire”--Ashong Tawiah, an Accra man, and Nyato, my chief
-steward-boy, a Krooman.
-
-The two Ashantis led the way, Otibu Daku carrying a “long Dane” gun;
-his son, a machete. Tawiah and Nyato also carried machetes, and the
-former, on leaving camp, had picked up a broad-bladed Hausa spear.
-Strange and I each had a repeating rifle and a revolver, for, as Nyato
-told me, “Dem headman, ’e say, plenty tiger lib dem part.”
-
-The trail was easy to follow. There was not much blood, but the
-ground was soft from recent rain. It was rough going, however, and
-the machetes were constantly at work clearing a way. Up and down
-small watersheds, squelching through marshy bottoms, crossing streams
-on fallen trees, we frequently lost the track, but by some sort of
-instinct our guides always found it again.
-
-At last, after descending a more than usually steep incline, we found
-ourselves in a valley of some size. The bush here was very thin, and we
-progressed without difficulty until we came in sight of the inevitable
-stream, the opposite bank of which, rising steeply, evidently formed
-the commencement of the next divide. I was about a dozen yards to
-Strange’s right; the ground was clear of bush between us and the
-stream; and on the nearer bank, his head overhanging the water, lay
-our quarry, clearly dying. But he was not alone. Stretched by his
-side, licking the wound that was letting out his life, lay a fine
-female leopard, evidently his consort. On seeing us she rose to her
-feet, snarling; she abandoned her ministrations and became militant--a
-defender-avenger. Strange fired hastily on sight, and a convulsive
-heave of the prostrate body showed where the bullet struck. With a
-light leap the leopardess cleared her mate, and with long, low springs
-raced down towards my friend. He fired again at thirty yards, wounding
-her, and she swerved slightly and came in my direction. We both fired
-together, whereupon she stopped suddenly, reared straight up, pawing
-the air--then fell backward, stone-dead.
-
-[Illustration: “SHE REARED STRAIGHT UP PAWING THE AIR--THEN FELL
-BACKWARD, STONE-DEAD.”]
-
-Hardly had the double report died away when our attention was attracted
-to a movement on the other side of the stream. Tawiah pointed.
-
-“Oolah! tiger him piccin!” (“Master, the leopard’s cubs”), he cried.
-Slinking away downstream, with long, stealthy strides, their muzzles to
-the ground and tails trailing low, were two half-grown leopards, the
-head of one level with the other’s haunch.
-
-“Tally-ho!” cried Strange, and let fly at them. His one fault as a
-sportsman was a too great eagerness to get the first shot in. The white
-splinters flew from the buttress of a great cotton-wood, and the nearer
-cub, startled as never before, leapt a man’s height from the ground,
-and, coming down, raced away downstream after its companion.
-
-“Come on! We’ll bag the whole family,” said Strange, jumping into the
-stream. Otibu Daku was already across and I was about to follow, when
-I noticed, fluttering up the farther slope, one of those beautiful
-insects called the “dead leaf” butterfly. You will see one fluttering
-along like a fugitive piece of rainbow--then suddenly it will alight on
-a withered branch or heap of dead herbage and disappear, the underside
-of the wings being in shape, colour, and even veining an exact
-imitation of a withered leaf.
-
-I was an enthusiastic collector, and never went out without a folding
-net that could be fixed to any fairly straight stick. Bidding Tawiah
-remain with me, then, I let the others go on after the cubs, and in a
-couple of minutes was in pursuit of my own particular quarry. The slope
-was nearly bare of bush, and I did not have much difficulty in making
-the capture. Placing it in a flat box containing some poison-wax, I
-took my rifle from Tawiah and went on up the hill, leaving him tying up
-a scratch on his leg.
-
-I was not quite easy in my mind. We had been too hasty in concluding
-that the cubs we had seen belonged to the leopards we had shot. They
-had been driven away too easily, and most likely were heading straight
-for their own den, where, at that time of day, the old ones would
-certainly be at home.
-
-I hurried on in the hope of getting some indication of my friend’s
-whereabouts. At the top of the ascent a soft breeze met me, it was
-pleasant and refreshing, but it brought that with it that made me drop
-flat behind a bush and throw my rifle forward. There is no mistaking
-the odour given off by the larger carnivora, and the strength of the
-smell that assailed my nostrils was such as to convince me that my
-first hasty thought--that I had headed off the cubs--was wrong. Such an
-effluvium could come only from a den, and an occupied one at that.
-
-There were three possibilities. It might be the home of the dead
-leopards, of the strange cubs we had seen, or the lair of yet a third
-family. I looked back. Tawiah was not in sight, but I knew he would
-follow. In front, for a hundred yards, the level crest of the ridge
-was covered by a sparse, wand-like growth that was no impediment to
-the view. Beyond the ground fell away again, and just on the edge, and
-rather to my right, stood two enormous cotton-woods, the space between
-them being a labyrinth of roots standing thigh-high from the ground.
-
-To this point, with what speed and silence I could command, I made my
-way. Midway I stopped abruptly to listen. A deep snarling, worrying
-sound filled the air, coming from straight ahead. Reaching the nearest
-root, I looked over. The rapidly falling ground beyond was hidden by a
-far-sweeping buttress from the tree on my left, which, running parallel
-with the one I stood against, made a passage about four feet wide and
-two high. Stealing away to the left, where the nearer root sank below
-the surface, I entered the passage, and, on all fours, reached a point
-midway between the two trees. The noise I had before heard was now very
-distinct, and, blending with it, yet dominating it, came a continuous
-buzzing sound like the far-away roll of a drum. I knew it for the
-purring of a full-grown leopard.
-
-Looking back, I was glad enough to see Tawiah reaching the level. I
-raised a warning hand, and, waiting only to see that he observed me,
-turned, and very cautiously looked over the root in front. From where I
-crouched the ground fell away very steeply and was bare and stony. Then
-began a gentler slope covered with a low scrub and running down into a
-valley similar to, but larger than, the one we had just left. Down the
-centre flowed a stream, the same on whose banks, higher up, we had left
-the dead leopards. I was on a kind of spur, round which the stream made
-a bend away to my right. To my left it lost itself in an expanse of
-shallow water covered with great water-lilies, which merged in its turn
-into the stream of the Volta, half a mile away.
-
-Just where the change of slope began was a great outcrop of rock. About
-a foot above the base, and facing me, was a ragged opening, and in
-this, with both paws hanging over the edge, lounged a fine she-leopard.
-The air hummed with her complacent purr, as, with blinking eyes, she
-watched the rough play of two well-grown cubs. Presently she rolled
-over on her back, and, with downward-hanging head, struck idly with
-a mighty paw at a white butterfly flitting above her. She was the
-personification of soft and sinuous strength.
-
-Suddenly, away to the right, a shot rang out. The purring ceased,
-and instantly the great cat was couched, rigid as a bronze casting.
-Except for the tip of her tail, not a muscle moved. Presently the
-tense expression relaxed, and with a guttural sort of sigh her head
-dropped on to her paws. But only for an instant. The stealthy rustling
-of something approaching reached her ears, and she resumed her alert
-attitude. Then her eyes half closed again, and she seemed to go smooth
-all over. A suave, fawning expression came into her face; her purring
-redoubled; she rolled softly on to her side and gazed intently in the
-direction of the sound. The noise came nearer, and presently, as I
-expected, her mate appeared. He paused for an instant to look back,
-and at that moment Strange’s rifle spoke again, and the leopard sank
-down, biting savagely at his hind-quarters. With one movement as it
-seemed, and with a sort of deep-throated cough, his consort was by his
-side, and then began an awful duet of snarls and growls, rumblings and
-snufflings, with the cubs for chorus.
-
-It was high time for me to take action; a wounded leopard and a
-leopardess with young can make themselves pretty awkward. I aimed at
-the female as being the more dangerous, and was about to pull the
-trigger, when a movement in the valley attracted my attention. One of
-the cubs we had first seen was tearing across the open, making for the
-stream. Some distance behind followed the other, evidently wounded.
-Close upon him ran Dansani, machete in hand. As I looked the cub turned
-and Dansani struck. Nyato was close behind, and level with him, but
-farther out, Otibu Daku stole swiftly with long, bent-kneed strides,
-his “long Dane” gun held across his body. Strange was not in sight.
-
-The foremost cub was nearly at the stream when he raised a howl of
-fear or of warning, I do not know which. On the instant, from a clump
-of bushes on the farther side, there leapt two greyish-white forms.
-Clearing the stream, they charged straight down on the young Ashanti.
-
-All this was photographed on my brain while my finger was on the
-trigger. The scene was blotted out as I fired, and from that moment I
-had enough on my hands to occupy my undivided attention. The leopardess
-was killed outright. The next instant I fired at the male, but one of
-the cubs gave a jump and received the bullet meant for his sire. How
-the brute did it I do not know--for he had a broken thigh-bone--but
-next moment the old leopard was tearing up the slope towards me, and
-very business-like he looked. I fired again and clipped his ear; then
-his claws were hooked on to the root in front of me, and all I could
-do was to smash the butt, pile-driver fashion, down upon his head. He
-seized it in his jaws, and the hard wood cracked like pitch-pine, while
-the wrench nearly tore the weapon from my grasp. He gave me no time to
-reverse it for another shot, or to draw my revolver. Four times did he
-struggle to draw himself up, and but for his broken leg I could not
-have prevented him. Four times, luckily for me, he allowed his fury to
-vent itself on the rifle-butt. The struggle only lasted seconds, but it
-seemed hours, and already the fury of it made my breath come short.
-
-And then the cub decided to take a hand! It had been pacing to and fro,
-snuffing the blood and growling; it then suddenly turned, and dashed
-straight to the scene of combat. A leopard cub by itself is not more
-than a man can manage, but as a reinforcement to an infuriated parent
-it is a serious matter. I heard Tawiah behind me.
-
-“Take the piccin,” I yelled, and put all my strength into an effort to
-thrust my foe back. Instinctively he tried to use his injured leg, and
-this time he lost grip altogether, and his claws scraped down the root,
-making great furrows in the wood. I let him have the gun, and seized my
-revolver in time to plant a couple of bullets in his head as he came up
-again.
-
-Meanwhile Tawiah had accounted for the cub, but he was badly clawed
-down the leg. To my surprise--for I did not remember the brute using
-his claws at all except to hold on by--my coat was ripped, and I had
-several nasty, but not severe, scratches down chest and arms.
-
-Our attention was now diverted to the scene below, and what we saw sent
-us both down the slope as fast as we could race--Tawiah ahead. One cub
-lay dead--Dansani’s victim--and a few paces from it stood the young
-Ashanti, preparing to dodge the foremost of the parent leopards I had
-seen break cover. He sprang aside as it reached him, but the brute
-wheeled as if on a pivot and reared. Then came the crashing report
-of the “long Dane,” a fearful yell, and Dansani reeled away with his
-hands to his head, and fell. The leopard, roaring horribly, rolled over
-and over, apparently broken in two. Its mate, swerving at the report,
-turned and raced straight for Tawiah, who had just reached the level
-ground. I shouted to him to come back to me, thinking that revolver and
-spear together would match the furious brute, but apparently he did
-not understand, for, waving me to follow, he tore off to where, midway
-between him and the advancing leopard, stood a small Dequa palm. His
-object, I learnt afterwards, was to hold the leopard at bay there till
-help arrived. It was a mad idea, for the savage brute was covering
-three yards to one of his.
-
-Just at that moment I caught sight of Strange--hobbling along,
-supported by his rifle, five hundred yards away; there was no help to
-be expected from him. Nyato was rushing on to settle with the remaining
-cub, that, screaming, was alternately dashing towards its wounded dam
-and back to the stream. Otibu Daku was carrying Dansani to the water,
-and the female leopard, her hind quarters straddling like those of a
-frog, with the small of her back blown away and reared on her front
-legs, was rending the air with the most awful yells.
-
-The male passed the tree, and only about forty yards separated him from
-my faithful follower. I ran on. Trusting to luck, I fired two chambers,
-but without success. The distance between them decreased rapidly, and
-Tawiah, seeing the hopelessness of his position, grounded his spear,
-and, gripping it by the middle, backed up the butt with his knee in
-the hope that the brute would impale himself. Then I saw that Strange
-was kneeling, taking aim. He could never hit a running leopard at that
-range, I told myself; it would appear no bigger than a cat to him.
-
-I was twenty yards behind Tawiah, and barely ten separated him from
-the leopard, when a ball of smoke floated away from Strange’s rifle.
-I dared not hope, and Tawiah remained like a rock. Then, suddenly, the
-leopard halted, and--for all the world like a kitten chasing its own
-tail--spun round and round till we could hardly tell one end from the
-other. I sent two bullets as near the centre as I could, and Tawiah,
-charging in, drove his spear in at one side and out at the other. The
-battle was over.
-
-[Illustration: “DANSANI REELED AWAY WITH HIS HANDS TO HIS HEAD, AND
-FELL.”]
-
-We found that Strange’s bullet had pierced the skin of the neck just
-where it joins the head, and had half stunned the animal. But what a
-glorious shot! I paced the distance to him; it was four hundred and
-sixty odd yards! He had made just a little too much allowance for
-speed, but what of that?
-
-Strange, it appeared, had stepped on a loose stone and strained his
-ankle badly. Poor Dansani was horribly mauled. The beast had clawed him
-from the crown of his head to the knee in one awful sweep. Half the
-scalp overhung his face, one eye was destroyed, the muscle of the upper
-arm was in ribbons, and the stroke, glancing from the elbow, had laid
-open his thigh to the knee. A revolver-shot finished his assailant. We
-did what we could for Dansani on the spot, and Nyato and his father
-carried him home on a hastily-constructed litter. Later he recovered,
-but was terribly disfigured.
-
-Tawiah and I took it in turns to help Strange along, and when we
-reached the spot where our first victims lay we found their young ones
-mewling over them. They slunk away, and we did not molest them. The
-cub Nyato had chased allowed self-preservation to triumph over filial
-affection, and got away also. My rifle was utterly ruined. And so ended
-our leopard hunt.
-
-
-
-
-TURTLE-FARMING.
-
-BY H. J. SHEPSTONE.
-
- An interesting description of the way in which turtles are
- “farmed” in various parts of the world. The most up-to-date and
- scientifically-conducted of these curious establishments is
- that of Mr. Hattori, in Japan, where the snapping-turtle, the
- most vicious of his species, is bred and reared.
-
-
-That strange creature, the turtle, is now receiving the attention of
-the farmer, and is being scientifically bred and reared in various
-parts of the world. Indeed, turtle-farming on a large scale is now
-carried on both in Japan and in America, while the great palisade
-enclosures on the shores in the West Indies, where turtles are confined
-until wanted for the London market, may well come under the same
-designation.
-
-Curiously enough, the species of turtle favoured respectively by the
-Japanese, Americans, and by English people are totally different. For
-instance, the Japanese farmer gives his attention to the propagation of
-the snapping-turtle and American to the diamond-backed terrapin, while
-the turtle soup so much prized by the wealthy and sought after by the
-sick in this country is made from the green turtle of the West Indies.
-
-[Illustration: A GROUP OF YOUNG TURTLES JUST HATCHED.
-
-_From a Photograph._]
-
-The terrapin is quite a small creature, rather flat-backed and rounded
-in outline, its scales being marked by independent black patterns
-composed of many geometric figures placed one within another. At one
-time it was found in large quantities in the shallow bays and salt
-marshes along the Atlantic coast from Massachusetts to Texas. The
-discovery that its flesh made a delicious stew and an ideal soup,
-however, resulted in the creature being hunted so vigorously that
-to-day it is exceedingly scarce. Indeed, whereas a terrapin, seven
-inches in length, could be picked up a few years ago for a few cents,
-it would be difficult to secure one to-day for a five-pound note. It
-was this scarcity of the terrapin, and the big demand for it among the
-hotels and restaurants, that have led not a few enterprising men to
-establish farms, where these much-sought-after creatures are bred and
-reared for the market in large numbers.
-
-The terrapin being small, perfectly harmless, and requiring but a
-little pond of salt water to dwell in, there is nothing particularly
-exciting in farming it. Indeed, a terrapin “farm” consists merely of
-a number of small ponds or basins in which the creatures are confined
-according to their age and size. Thus, in the smaller ponds, we
-discover those just hatched from the eggs--curious little things not
-much bigger than a billiard ball. As they breed well, and it is not
-necessary to keep the creature long before it is ready for the _chef_,
-terrapin farming may be described as a fairly remunerative business.
-
-[Illustration: GENERAL VIEW OF MR. HATTORI’S TURTLE-FARM NEAR TOKIO,
-JAPAN.
-
-_From a Photograph._]
-
-[Illustration: THE EMBANKMENT OF A “PARENTS’ POND”--EACH OF THE WIRE
-CIRCLETS HERE SHOWN COVERS A DEPOSIT OF EGGS.
-
-_From a Photo. by M. Ichikawa, Japan._]
-
-Decidedly more up-to-date are the snapping-turtle farms of Mr. Hattori,
-situated just outside Tokio, the capital of Japan. The Japanese people
-will proudly tell you that they are the only turtle farms in the world,
-but, as I have already shown, this is hardly correct. These farms
-were established some few years ago now, and are, without question,
-a great success. On an average, Mr. Hattori supplies to the hotels
-and restaurants of Japan over sixteen thousand turtles a year, while
-another five thousand are shipped to China. So far as the farm itself
-is concerned, it consists of a number of rectangular ponds, large and
-small, the larger ones having an area of fifteen to twenty thousand
-square feet.
-
-[Illustration: YOUNG SNAPPING-TURTLES A FEW DAYS OLD--THEY ARE KEPT IN
-A SEPARATE ENCLOSURE IN ORDER THAT THEIR CANNIBALISTIC ELDERS MAY NOT
-DEVOUR THEM.
-
-_From a Photo. by M. Ichikawa, Japan._]
-
-One or more of the ponds is always reserved for large breeding
-individuals, or “parents,” as they are called, and one of the
-assistants visits this pond twice a day to look out for new deposits
-of eggs. Over these he places a wire basket, with the date marked upon
-it. In one of our photographs a number of these wire baskets may be
-seen, though unfortunately the eggs are not shown, being covered with
-a slight layer of sand, this work being done by the turtle itself.
-The covering serves a twofold purpose--the obvious one of marking the
-place, and, in addition, that of keeping other females from digging in
-the same spot. When hundreds, or even thousands, of these baskets are
-seen along the bank of a “parents’ pond,” the sight is one to gladden
-the heart of an embryologist, to say nothing of the proprietor.
-
-The hatching of the eggs occupies, on an average, sixty days. The
-time, however, may be considerably shortened or lengthened, according
-to whether the summer is hot and the sun pours down its strong rays
-day after day, or whether there is much rain and the heat not great.
-As the turtles lay sixty eggs to the nest at two sittings, it will be
-seen that in a single season many thousands are added to this unique
-establishment, but at least five years must elapse before they are
-large enough for the _chef_.
-
-[Illustration: CHOPPING UP FOOD FOR THE BABY TURTLES.
-
-_From a Photograph._]
-
-One would imagine, remembering the quantities of eggs laid by turtles,
-that they would be very plentiful, but there are few creatures that
-have more enemies. All that the mother turtle does is to deposit her
-eggs on the sand of some island and there leave them to be hatched
-out by the sun. Before this process is accomplished they are often
-destroyed by rats and birds, while very few of those that are hatched
-survive very long. The moment the young turtle emerges from its shell
-it seeks the water, and there crabs and various kinds of fish are ever
-ready to devour it. The young just hatched at the farm under notice are
-put in a pond or ponds by themselves and given finely-chopped meat of a
-fish like the pilchard, while the bigger ones are fed largely on live
-eels. This feeding continues to the end of September. In October the
-snapping-turtle ceases to take food, and finally burrows in the muddy
-bottom of the pond to hibernate, coming out only in April or May.
-
-Snapping-turtle farming is much more exciting than raising the
-American terrapin. The former is a vicious creature and will snap
-at anything--hence its name. Indeed, in disposition it is the very
-opposite of its American brother. It believes most thoroughly in the
-survival of the fittest, and to it the fittest is number one. It is a
-chronic fighter, and inasmuch as its jaws are very strong and, like a
-bulldog, it never knows when to let go, it is a reptile to be either
-mastered or avoided. Indeed, the men at Mr. Hattori’s farm can tell
-many exciting little stories concerning the voracity of this strange
-creature. One farm hand, for instance, is minus a finger, the result of
-not using sufficient care when transferring one of the larger reptiles
-to a new pond.
-
-[Illustration: FEEDING THE EELS WHICH IN TURN PROVIDE FOOD FOR THE
-LARGER TURTLES.
-
-_From a Photo. by M. Ichikawa, Japan._]
-
-Many naturalists have visited this unique farm and, after a close study
-of the turtle and its habits, have confirmed all the bad qualities that
-have been recorded concerning it. In securing its food it shows that
-it possesses no mean intelligence. At one time it crawls slowly and
-silently along with neck outstretched towards an unsuspecting fish,
-springs upon it by a powerful thrust of its hind legs, and snaps it
-up; at another time it drives the fish around the basin and terrifies
-it until it falls an unresisting victim. Again, the reptile may be
-observed buried in the sandy soil of its prison with only its bill and
-eyes protruding. On the approach of a fish the head and long neck dart
-forth from the sand with lightning speed and the prey is caught and
-instantly killed by a savage bite.
-
-In its wild state the snapping-turtle is distinctly a nocturnal animal,
-and does its hunting after sunset, when it emerges from its muddy home
-to look for food. In the presence of danger it becomes bold, defiant,
-and even desperate. When driven to bay it retracts its neck, head, and
-widely-gaping jaws into its shell, awaiting a favourable opportunity
-to thrust them forth slyly and bite savagely. Anything which it has
-seized in its jaws it holds with wonderful tenacity, at the same time
-vigorously scratching the earth with its sharp claws. There is only one
-way to catch the snapping-turtle, and that is to secure it by the tail.
-Some of the men at Mr. Hattori’s farm are very dexterous in seizing
-their victims in this fashion.
-
-A little time ago a Russian officer visited the establishment and
-listened, with some incredulity, to the stories of the voracity of
-the reptiles in the ponds before him. He carried in his hand a stout
-cane, and was told to place it near one of the bigger animals. He did
-so, and was surprised to find that in a few minutes it was bitten
-clean through. Before now the snapping-turtle has been known to bite
-through the flat of an oar. Not only will this turtle catch all kinds
-of fish and frogs and devour them greedily, but it is not averse to
-hunting waterfowl. Mr. Hattori declares that, in addition to raising
-turtles, he could rear ducks and geese as well, but dare not, as the
-reptiles would only kill them. When a snapping-turtle detects a duck it
-cunningly makes its way towards the creature, seizes it by its legs,
-pulls it down under water, and then drags it to the bottom of the pond.
-Here it tears the duck to pieces with the aid of the long claws of its
-fore paws and devours it.
-
-It is this snapping propensity which makes it desirable to keep the
-reptiles in ponds according to their ages; it would not do to put
-those just hatched in the same basin as the bigger ones, as they would
-quickly be eaten. Until they reach their sixth year they are never
-“mixed.” When they reach this age, however, they are capable of taking
-care of themselves and are allowed access to the bigger ponds. By this
-time the turtle has reached maturity and may begin to deposit eggs,
-though it is not at its prime till two or three years later.
-
-[Illustration: WEST INDIAN TURTLES ON BOARD A MAIL STEAMER BOUND FOR
-LONDON--IN SPITE OF EVERY CARE, THE MORTALITY AMONG THEM IS VERY HEAVY.
-[_From a Photograph._]]
-
-What the Japanese epicure prefers are turtles not more than five years
-of age, when the flesh is soft and in desirable condition for the
-making of stews and soups. At this age the snapping-turtle weighs from
-sixty to eighty pounds. Those that are destined for the table are kept
-in a pond to themselves, and taken as required in nets or pulled out of
-the water by their tails. They are then placed in tin boxes or cases
-with air-holes, and sent by train to their destination.
-
-The turtle that is consumed in this country is the green species, from
-the West Indies. The creatures are imported by Mr. T. K. Bellis, who
-will not hesitate to tell you that of edible turtles the green variety
-is the best. Mr. Bellis imports some three thousand turtles a year.
-They arrive in batches of one hundred or more every fortnight by the
-Royal Mail steamers from Kingston, Jamaica, and are obtained from the
-coral reefs lying to the north of the island of Jamaica. Twelve to
-fifteen small schooners are employed in the trade, and upwards of a
-hundred and twenty men.
-
-[Illustration: A CONSIGNMENT OF TURTLES AT A LONDON TERMINUS. [_From a
-Photograph._]]
-
-These fishers of strange “fish” (the turtle’s technical name) stretch
-nets of twine from rock to rock, and the moment the turtle feels itself
-entangled it clings tenaciously to the meshes, and is then hauled to
-the surface. The schooners in due time return to Kingston with from
-eighty to a hundred and fifty of these remarkable creatures, which
-are promptly deposited in palisaded enclosures, flooded at every tide
-by the sea. Here they are fed upon a certain kind of herbage known as
-“turtle grass,” and taken as required. The bringing of these creatures
-overseas is a very delicate business, and frequently sixty out of a
-hundred perish _en route_, in spite of the most elaborate precautions,
-such as the constant spraying of salt water daily on board the mail
-steamer, and the use of foot warmers for the turtles in the railway
-vans from Southampton to Waterloo. Before now, Mr. Bellis has lost
-eighty-eight turtles out of a shipment of a hundred.
-
-This susceptibility to travel is one of the most remarkable things
-about the turtle. If you are anxious to transport him alive it is a
-hundred to one he perishes of cold, but if you do succeed in getting
-him home the difficulty then is to kill him. The vitality of this
-strange sea creature after decapitation is almost beyond belief. Mr.
-Bellis once sent a large turtle to an hotel in Newcastle. The _chef_
-cut the turtle’s head off and hung the body upside down to bleed.
-Twenty-four hours after that turtle knocked down a man cook with one
-blow of its fin! The green turtle is not a vicious creature to handle,
-like its snapping Japanese brother, but its fins are very strong, and
-one blow from them is quite sufficient to break a man’s arm.
-
-Mr. Frank T. Bullen gives a remarkable instance of the tenacious hold
-of the turtle upon life. “On one occasion,” he records, “our men cut
-all the flesh and entrails of a turtle away, leaving only the head
-and tail attached to the shell. Some time had elapsed since the meat
-had been scooped out of the carapace, and no one imagined that any
-life remained in the extremities. But a young Dane, noticing that the
-down-hanging head had its mouth wide open, very foolishly inserted two
-fingers between those horny mandibles. It closed, and our shipmate
-was two fingers short, the edges of the turtle’s jaws had taken them
-clean off, with only the muscular power remaining in the head. Then
-another man tried to cut the horny tail off, but as soon as his keen
-blade touched it on the underside it curled up and gripped his knife so
-firmly that it was nearly an hour before the blade could be withdrawn.”
-Signor Redi, the great zoologist, records how he once cut a turtle’s
-head off and noted that it lived for twenty-three days without a head,
-and another whose brains he removed lived for six months.
-
-The green turtle, the species favoured in this country, is not a
-carnivorous creature, like the snapping-turtle, its food being a
-particular kind of sea grass found on the coral reefs in the West
-Indies. Some time ago Mr. Bellis brought a large quantity of this grass
-to London, with the idea of feeding the creatures in captivity, but
-they refused to take it. In his cellars in the City one can see any
-day a number of these turtles. Here they are kept until a telegram
-arrives from a distant hotel, when away goes the turtle to be turned
-into soup for the forthcoming banquet. Those hotels which do not care
-about the trouble of killing the creature can procure the soup in tins
-and bottles direct from the importer, and it is not surprising to learn
-that large quantities are sold. It requires eight pounds of the best
-turtle-flesh to make one quart of soup.
-
-The green turtle grows to an immense size, but it has been found
-that specimens weighing more than a hundred and fifty pounds are not
-desirable, the flesh becoming coarse as the animal increases in weight.
-The shell of this variety is practically valueless, but the hawksbill
-turtle yields what is popularly known as “tortoiseshell,” and the
-armour covering of a good specimen may be worth eight pounds. Its
-flesh, however, is too coarse for consumption, though here it should
-be added that it is doubtful whether those who occasionally partake
-of green-turtle soup would relish that made from the flesh of the
-snapping-turtle.
-
-It is a notorious fact that turtles grow very slowly and attain a great
-age. Curiously enough, neither Mr. Hattori nor Mr. Bellis can tell to
-what age a snapping or green turtle will live. Mr. Hattori has quite a
-number of turtles that are known to be from thirty to fifty years of
-age, while some of the bigger specimens that arrive at Waterloo for the
-Bellis cellars are, it is believed, twelve to fifteen years old.
-
-[Illustration: TURTLES IN MR. BELLIS’S CELLARS IN THE CITY OF LONDON.
-
-_From a Photo. by Conolly & Goatam._]
-
-
-
-
-[Illustration: SHORT STORIES.]
-
-
-THE AMBASSADOR’S TRUNK.
-
-BY E. A. MORPHY, LATE EDITOR OF THE “STRAITS TIMES,” SINGAPORE.
-
-The circumstances of this little smuggling incident, though known to
-several persons in the Far East, have hitherto been hidden, so to
-speak, under a bushel. In bringing them to the light it should be
-stated that--for obvious reasons--fictitious names have been given to
-the individuals chiefly concerned, but the facts are just as stated.
-
-Far and away the most distinguished passenger on the big German liner
-was the homeward bound Japanese Ambassador. He did not look the part,
-however. He was a squat, unobtrusive little man whose trousers fitted
-him badly, and whose carriage, when he was hampered by European
-clothes, suggested an insignificance that was only partially belied by
-the intelligence of his homely countenance. His appearance reflected no
-radiant blaze of glory, yet he was returning to his native land crowned
-with some of the finest diplomatic achievements of the century.
-
-This statement is due to his Excellency, but it practically dismisses
-him from the story, which mainly concerns his trunk--his trunk No. 23,
-to be precise, for the Ambassador’s trunks were all numbered. There
-must have been half a hundred of them at least; all the same typical
-German steel trunks, but distinguished from other less important trunks
-of the same make insomuch that each one was adorned with two broad
-painted bands of scarlet, which showed out bravely and effectually
-prevented their being mixed up with any ordinary baggage. Apart
-from all other considerations, the wisdom of the Ambassador in thus
-distinctively marking his own trunks lay in the fact that the process
-insured their instant recognition by the Japanese Customs officials, by
-whom they were immune from examination.
-
-This last fact was the one which counted for most with Fritz Vogel,
-steward and trombonist of the liner, as he daily contemplated the
-mountain of luggage and calculated how many Manila cigars one of those
-great red-striped trunks would hold.
-
-[Illustration: “HE DAILY CONTEMPLATED THE MOUNTAIN OF LUGGAGE AND
-CALCULATED HOW MANY MANILA CIGARS ONE OF THOSE GREAT RED-STRIPED TRUNKS
-WOULD HOLD.”]
-
-Carefully packed, he figured it, one might crowd ten thousand cigars
-into each trunk. Ten thousand cigars, at eighty Mexican dollars a
-thousand, meant eighty pounds. Duty at one hundred and fifty per
-cent. _ad valorem_ on eighty pounds would mean a hundred and twenty
-pounds, or, as Fritz Vogel calculated, two thousand four hundred
-marks. Therefore, as the meditative trombonist further worked out
-the possibilities, his Excellency could, by simply loading up a few
-dozen more trunks with cigars at Hong-Kong and getting them passed
-free through the Customs at Yokohama--or at Nagasaki or Kobe for that
-matter--make more in a week than he could hope to earn in a month of
-Sundays by sticking to the thorny paths of diplomacy.
-
-Born west of the Suez, the fertile idea germinated in Vogel’s brain
-all through the dreary wastes of the Canal, and sprouted up green and
-vigorous, despite the withering blasts that pursued the liner down the
-Red Sea and across the Indian Ocean to Colombo. At Singapore it had
-become an obsession. When steaming through the Narrows into the latter
-port, however, on the way to the German mail wharf, Vogel observed
-a red-funnelled Jardine liner at the Messageries wharf, with the
-blue-peter flying.
-
-An hour later the _Laisang_ left for China, carrying a hastily-written
-letter from Fritz Vogel to his friend Max Krebs at Hong-Kong. It
-contained a fair statement of the salient facts in the case, and a
-crude but lucid sketch of one of the pieces of baggage, together with a
-description of the scarlet bands and full measurements. It also stated
-what has not been set forth above--that each of his Excellency’s trunks
-was numbered in large white figures at each end and on the top, and it
-suggested that in the case of any person desiring to have access to
-those trunks whilst they were still on board the liner, Nos. 23, 24,
-27, 32, etc., were the easiest to reach.
-
-Mr. Krebs was a “runner” for a native compradoring firm. He went out
-to the ships to “drum up” business for his employers, who supplied
-anything and everything that a ship could require, from cigarettes to
-engine-oil. In the old days before the Russian War Mr. Vogel had done
-a good deal of trade with Mr. Krebs on the short run between Yokohama
-and Hong-Kong. But the stringent Customs regulations that had ensued
-upon the increased tariffs imposed after the war had practically
-killed the business, save so far as concerned a paltry bit of trading
-with passengers in faked curios, and the occasional disposal of a few
-imitation gems to homeward-bound tourists when the vessel was west of
-Colombo.
-
-Opportunities like the return of an Ambassador to Japan did not occur
-once in a blue moon.
-
-The liner tarried a day and a half over cargo at Singapore, and the
-_Laisang_ got into Hong-Kong nearly twenty-four hours ahead of her. Mr.
-Vogel learned the fact the moment the German liner arrived at the big
-China port, and his heart was filled with sickening apprehension. He
-had been dreaming of trunks full of cigars--German steel trunks with
-red bands, and numbered with big white characters--ever since he left
-Singapore. He had marked off the state-room wherein, until the proper
-psychological moment, the extra trunks--if any--could be stored safely.
-He had mentally arranged every other detail in his projected bid for
-fortune, and had even marked down those of his comrades who should be
-selected as his accomplices. He had counted over, time and time again,
-the round thousand marks that would be his personal profit out of every
-trunk full of cigars he could pass through the Yokohama Customs as
-the baggage of the returning Ambassador. He did all this while still
-faithfully, if mechanically, discharging his onerous duties as steward
-and master of the trombone.
-
-[Illustration: “A NOTE WAS HANDED TO HIM BY A CHINESE MESSENGER.”]
-
-It was not until a few hours after the arrival of the steamer in
-Hong-Kong--hours that felt like ages--that Vogel heard from Krebs. A
-note was handed to him by a Chinese messenger boy, and Vogel opened it
-with feverish impatience. Mr. Krebs wrote with that laconic brevity
-of diction which indicates the resourceful mind. “Will send you one
-trunk.--O. K.,” it read.
-
-Mr. Vogel pondered for a moment whether “O. K.” meant Oscar Krebs or
-“All correct” (American fashion); then he heaved a great sigh of relief
-as he realized that it was all the same.
-
-That evening Mr. Krebs came on board unostentatiously, and a big
-trunk wrapped in rough sacking came with him, and was temporarily
-stowed away by Mr. Vogel in one of the state-rooms which held some of
-the Ambassador’s spare boxes. Thence it was subsequently carried to
-another cabin, where there were some spare things of Mr. Vogel’s. Had
-a hypercritical observer subsequently studied all the trunks in the
-Ambassador’s collection he might have noticed that one of them appeared
-to be the least trifle newer than the rest, but it would have taken
-a Sherlock Holmes to detect the circumstance off-hand. The trunk in
-question was numbered “23.”
-
-In due time the liner arrived at Yokohama, but the mails that had
-been forwarded overland from Nagasaki reached there a day before her.
-Thus it came about that when the Ambassador’s baggage was franked
-through the Custom House and sent up to the Imperial Hotel at Tokio,
-two friends of Messrs. Krebs and Vogel were installed as guests at the
-last-named establishment. Thus also it came about that, thanks to ten
-yen well spent on a porter, the Ambassador’s trunk, No. 23, was whisked
-away to the nether cellars of the hotel the moment it arrived there,
-and--as the Ambassador himself did at an earlier stage--it virtually
-passes out of this story. That is to say, what must have been the ghost
-of the Ambassador’s trunk vanishes from mortal view; but not so the
-real article. When the diplomat’s baggage was supposed to be all in,
-and a count was taken, trunk No. 23 was found to be missing.
-
-The row that ensued was something awful. Telegraphs and telephones were
-called into requisition, and imperative, not to say drastic, orders
-were dispatched to the Customs authorities at Yokohama, to the railway
-authorities at Shimbashi, and to all other authorities everywhere,
-commanding them to instantly produce his Excellency’s missing trunk.
-
-[Illustration: “THEY HAD PASSED IT AND FORWARDED IT, AND GOT A RECEIPT
-FOR IT.”]
-
-The Customs authorities declared they had not got the trunk; they had
-passed it and forwarded it, and got a receipt for it. There could be no
-doubt, from their point of view, that the Ambassador had taken delivery
-of his trunk No. 23. The railway authorities were equally agreed on
-the same point. The baggage was all in special carriages; not a pin
-could have been lost between Yokohama and the Shimbashi station at the
-capital, whence it had been handed over to his Excellency’s servants
-for removal to the hotel. The police authorities were equally certain
-that there had been no hanky-panky business of any kind. It would have
-been impossible for one of the Ambassador’s trunks to go astray or be
-stolen, either in the streets of the seaport or in the capital itself.
-The steamship authorities had a receipt for every article. They knew
-the Ambassador’s trunks, and especial care had been taken of them
-throughout the voyage. Nevertheless, they would again investigate.
-
-Then, Banzai! there came a telegram from the chief purser of the
-liner:--
-
-“_Ambassador’s trunk No. 23 found on board. Must have been left behind
-inadvertently. Forwarding to Tokio at once._”
-
-The little Custom House inspectors looked at the newly-found trunk in
-utter stupefaction.
-
-“Truly,” said they, “we passed this identical trunk not three hours
-ago.”
-
-“_Hayako!_” (Hurry, there!) shouted the head inspector, as they dallied
-over the mystery. “His Excellency waits!”
-
-[Illustration: “THE LITTLE CUSTOM HOUSE INSPECTORS LOOKED AT THE
-NEWLY-FOUND TRUNK IN UTTER STUPEFACTION.”]
-
-The trunk was expressed up to the Imperial Hotel by special train.
-
-Ten minutes later the Director of His Imperial Majesty’s Customs
-at Yokohama ordered a Commission of Inquiry into the matter of the
-registering as received and delivered of one Ambassador’s trunk, No.
-23, when the same had never either been received from the liner or
-delivered to the railway or to any other authorities by His Imperial
-Majesty’s Customs. The matter was also taken in hand by the Imperial
-Railway and by the Tokio and Kanagawa police authorities.
-
-Though a couple of years have passed since these investigations were
-inaugurated, no definite finding in the matter has yet been officially
-published. In certain quarters, however, there is a consensus of
-opinion that such a trunk did really pass through the Yokohama Customs,
-but that it was a phantom one.
-
-Mr. Vogel took away two thousand two hundred yen (two hundred and
-twenty pounds) from Yokohama that trip. At Hong-Kong, nine days later,
-he settled up with Mr. Krebs.
-
-The cigars and trunk had cost nine hundred dollars, while the expenses
-and “commissions” in Japan amounted to a trifle less than three hundred
-dollars. There was a balance of a thousand dollars to divide, and they
-duly divided it.
-
-
-HALF AN HOUR IN A BLAZING FURNACE.
-
-BY GEORGE S. GUY.
-
-One of the most remarkable and appalling experiences possible to
-conceive recently befell a young man named Robert Perry, at Apedale,
-in Staffordshire. Tramping about the country in search of work, he
-arrived one night, utterly tired out, at an ironworks, and unwittingly
-took shelter in an “air furnace,” used for the purpose of reducing
-very large pieces of iron, too large to be dealt with in the ordinary
-way. As it happened, the fire-bars of this particular furnace had been
-taken out, and Perry had no difficulty in creeping through the opening
-and thus making his way inside. Here he had to mount a wall five feet
-in height, and eventually reached the melting chamber, which at the
-time contained about five tons of iron waiting to be smelted. Arrived
-at this point, in blissful ignorance of the dangerous character of the
-place he had selected to sleep in, and appreciating only its dryness
-and seclusion, he lay down to rest. Exactly why he should have selected
-such a strange bedchamber it is impossible to say, but tramps have
-been known to choose even stranger quarters--such as lime-kilns and
-brick-kilns. Anyhow, the fact remains that he went into the furnace
-to sleep. What happened afterwards is told below, from information
-gathered partly from the man himself and partly from other persons who
-figured in his terrible adventure.
-
-After a long walk in the broiling sun Perry arrived at Apedale quite
-exhausted, and set about looking for a snug, dry place where he could
-lie down and have a sleep. During his weary tramp he had been no
-stranger to curious resting-places, and he had spent the previous night
-under a railway arch. Presently he came across the smelting works of
-the Midland Coal, Coke, and Iron Company, and, seeing a furnace which
-he took to be unused, examined it intently. The wide, open front of
-the contrivance looked tempting, and he decided to make its interior
-his abode for the night. Crawling into the opening for some little
-distance, he discovered that he had a wall five feet in height to climb
-over, but scaled it without much trouble. Beyond he found himself in
-pitch-darkness, but clambered cautiously onwards, trying to find a
-comfortable place to lie down. Proceeding up a slope, he reached a sort
-of chamber beyond, where a number of great pieces of iron were lying
-about. Here the weary man lay down, and, being very tired, it did not
-take him long to fall asleep. Let him tell the manner of his awakening
-in his own words.
-
- * * * * *
-
-[Illustration: FIRE-GRATE WHERE PERRY CRAWLED IN.
-
-_From a Photograph._]
-
-I do not exactly know what awoke me, but upon trying to raise myself
-a frightful choking feeling came over me, and I became conscious of
-great heat. Then, like a flash, I realized what a dreadful mistake I
-had made, and what a terrible situation I was in. The furnace was _not_
-disused, and now the workmen had lit it, and I was a prisoner inside!
-For a moment I felt sick with horror, but it did not take me long to
-pull myself together and try to find a way out.
-
-[Illustration: PLAN OF THE FURNACE--THE CROSS DENOTES WHERE PERRY
-SLEPT.]
-
-The whole place was in total darkness. Although I could hear a dull
-roaring somewhere, and feel the waves of heated air and fumes passing
-over me, I could not see the slightest sign of any light. Tremblingly
-I felt up and down the sides of my prison to see if I could find a
-door, but nothing of the kind could I discover. I tried to retreat
-farther into the furnace to get away from that awful heat, but had
-to return and face it again. Now, with a sickening heart, I saw that
-flames were approaching my position. Thinking my end was near at hand,
-I decided at all costs to go down the slope. This meant that I must
-face the fire, which was now licking up towards me, sucked inwards
-by the tremendous draught. Shivering with horror I made the attempt,
-but the heat and flames were unendurable, and beat me back. Then,
-crouching down, I worked myself along the side, thinking this my best
-plan. At last--Heaven alone knows how--I reached the foot of the wall.
-In a half-dazed, choking condition, I tried to climb up, but was met
-by a veritable hurricane of fierce flames, which knocked me down and
-burnt all the hair off my head. Half-blinded, scorched, and with my
-brain benumbed from the effects of the fumes, I still did not quite
-lose heart: something seemed to force me on to make a struggle for
-life. Suddenly, as I lay there gasping in that inferno of heat and
-flame, I heard voices outside, but I could not understand what was
-said. I wondered dully whether, if I called out, the men I could hear
-speaking would hear me, so, in my agony of physical suffering and
-mental distress, I shouted, “O Lord, save me! O Lord, save me!” The
-murmur of voices still went on, but presently one man evidently heard
-my cries, and called out to a “Mr. Phillips” that he thought he heard
-a shout for help. This, however, Mr. Phillips--who seemed to be the
-foreman--ridiculed, and they went on working as before.
-
-I was now on the verge of giving up; my strength seemed to be failing
-me, but I decided to make one final attempt to get on the wall. I am
-glad to say that it was not in vain, and after a desperate struggle I
-succeeded in reaching the top. This seemed to renew my energy, and I
-braced myself for what I knew was my last hope. I gave one horrified
-glance at the furnace below, the flames roaring and leaping madly, and
-then, with all the strength of my fire-scorched lungs, I shrieked out
-once more, “O Lord, save me!”
-
-The men outside stopped work at once.
-
-“Did you hear that?” cried one, excitedly; “I heard it quite distinctly
-that time; someone is shouting out ‘Lord, save me’!” This time Mr.
-Phillips admitted that he _did_ think he heard a noise as if someone
-was calling out, but where could it come from? It was impossible for
-anyone to be in the furnace alive, for the fire had been going for some
-time. Then someone else said, “Open the fire-door and see if you can
-see anything.”
-
-The fire-door! Where was it, I wondered--far away or near at hand?
-Then, to my great joy, I heard them releasing a bolt just a few feet
-from where I was. At last it opened--a place about a foot square--and
-I saw daylight streaming in and then a man’s face. He peered in
-anxiously, but evidently he could not see me, for I was now as black as
-the furnace itself. Then he seemed to half-close the door and I nearly
-swooned away, for this was my last chance.
-
-Desperately I strove to shout, but the heat, flames, and smoke
-prevented my uttering a sound save a choking gasp. Fortunately for
-myself, however, I moved, and the watcher happened to catch sight of
-something about me--probably the whites of my eyes shining in the
-reflected light. “Good God!” he cried. “There’s a man in the furnace!
-Pull the bars out as quickly as you can.”
-
-[Illustration: “I FOUND MYSELF FALLING--RIGHT ON TO THE HUGE FIRE.”]
-
-I did not trouble to think what or where the bars were; I knew only
-that the men had seen me and would do everything in their power to get
-me out. I heard them pulling the bars out in frantic haste, and saw Mr.
-Phillips trying to squeeze himself through the small fire-door.
-
-With my flesh scorching and my breath rapidly failing me in that awful
-whirlwind of heat and flame, I put my arms down for him to catch hold
-of. He seized me by the elbows and told me to jump, but this I could
-not do, for I felt too far gone. With that he gave me a jerk, and I
-found myself falling--right on to the huge fire! The bars were out, and
-the fire was keeping itself together by the pressure of one block of
-coal on another; but when my weight came upon it, it collapsed, sending
-up a rush of flames all around me. To my intense horror, I felt the
-skin on my arms giving way, but the courageous Mr. Phillips did not
-release his hold. His hands were now on my wrists, and, exerting all
-his strength, he pulled me up towards the door.
-
-The pain of my burns was simply fearful, and I could have shrieked with
-agony, but somehow, except for a few moans, I kept quiet.
-
-[Illustration: ROBERT PERRY AS HE APPEARED AFTER HIS DISCHARGE FROM THE
-INFIRMARY.
-
-[_From a Photograph._]]
-
-Presently the foreman succeeded in pulling me out of the small door,
-but I felt as if dead, and as though I was shrivelling up and growing
-smaller. As I lay on the ground, in agonizing pain, I appealed to the
-men to strangle me. Again and again, in semi-delirium, I repeated the
-request: “I’m done for! Strangle me! strangle me!” My whole body seemed
-to be on fire, but my rescuers lost no time. Procuring some oil, they
-saturated me with it, thus, in a measure, soothing the pain. Then they
-got me on to an ambulance and rushed me off to the Chell Infirmary,
-where I received every care and attention.
-
-Never, so long as I live, shall I forget the terrible time I endured
-in the furnace, and my unspeakable joy when I saw Mr. Phillips at the
-fire-door.
-
- * * * * *
-
-I am indebted to Mr. Hill, the general manager of the above-mentioned
-company, for a plan of the furnace. It may be interesting to add that,
-even had Perry contrived to shelter himself from the flames at the
-foot of the wall he mentions, he would very soon have met with a death
-too awful to contemplate, as the molten iron would have flowed down
-and overwhelmed him. The authorities inform me that Perry’s adventure
-is altogether unprecedented in the whole of their experience. At the
-moment when his first cry was heard the furnace had been alight for
-some considerable time, having been started with a large quantity of
-wood and many barrow-loads of hot coal in order to raise the heat
-quickly!
-
-[Illustration: MR. PHILLIPS STANDING BY THE FIRE-DOOR THROUGH WHICH
-PERRY WAS DRAGGED.
-
-[_From a Photograph._]]
-
-
-THE HEADLESS WOMAN.
-
-BY CHARLES NEEDHAM.
-
-I had just recovered from a troublesome throat affection, and under
-the doctor’s orders had moved out of town for a spell of fresh air
-and quieter surroundings, selecting the little village of Canewdon,
-in South-East Essex, as my retreat. I had always had an eye on the
-village, first making its acquaintance whilst yachting off the coast
-and in the River Crouch, where my boat had its permanent berth.
-
-Canewdon is actually little more than a straggling hamlet four miles
-by road to the north of Rochford, and about nine from Southend-on-Sea.
-It required only a very short residence there for me to find that the
-secluded little place considered it had its own corner in history, and
-a very pretty turn in folk-lore and superstition as well. To begin
-with, Canewdon claims King Canute as one of its founders, and its
-domestic romances and tragedies would make a presentable volume in the
-hands of a scribbling antiquary. It had, however, something more than
-mere history, and far less to my liking, for me to feed my imagination
-upon, as I was soon to discover.
-
-[Illustration: THE OLD COTTAGE AT CANEWDON IN WHICH THE AUTHOR RESIDED.
-
-_From a Photograph._]
-
-After a good look round I settled upon a comfortable old cottage, with
-a small garden traversed by a brook, only a very short distance from
-the ancient, square-towered church. Into this, having taken it at a
-very moderate rental, I moved a small amount of furniture, my books,
-and other paraphernalia, and prepared to settle down to the life of
-a hermit for a time. The woman who came from close by to “do” for me
-looked upon me, I fancy, as something of a curiosity, but, for some
-reason I had not then discovered, she seemed a little uneasy at my
-solitary existence. She would remark that I must be lonely, or that it
-was unlikely that I should stop in the place very long. I put all this
-down to a friendly disposition, coupled with a desire to draw me out as
-to my place in the larger world I had dropped from so suddenly.
-
-For the first day or two matters went smoothly enough, and I began to
-feel that my choice of locality had been a lucky and inexpensive one.
-Then something occurred which startled me sufficiently to make me alter
-my opinion.
-
-I always used the little kitchen at meal-times for convenience’ sake,
-and one night I remained there reading until very late, the kitchen
-being lit only by one small lamp at my back. I had just closed my
-book--it was about one o’clock--and was summoning the effort required
-to take me bedwards, when I noticed a very slight movement of the iron
-latch upon the door leading into the back garden. My thoughts naturally
-flew to burglars. The locality was lonely, and no doubt my coming had
-been duly talked over in the village with all the exaggeration and
-surmise an out-of-the-way place is capable of.
-
-I was, of course, considerably startled, and sat watching the latch
-slowly rise, evidently actuated by a very delicate and even pressure
-from without. The door itself was bolted at both top and bottom, and
-when the latch had risen clear of the hasp I fully expected to hear the
-bolts rattle as the person outside put his weight against the door to
-try it. But nothing of the sort happened; the latch, after remaining
-suspended for a moment, fell back again into place as slowly and evenly
-as it had risen.
-
-Startled and puzzled as I was, I still held to my belief that this
-must be a timid attempt at robbery, and that, finding the back door
-locked, the intruder would try the front one also. Nor was I wrong,
-for I had scarcely slipped quietly into the sitting-room and taken up
-my position when the latch there began to rise in precisely the same
-manner. This door possessed only one bolt, and that at the bottom, so
-that the door, an old and ill-fitting one, would show the slightest
-pressure at once. But none was placed upon it, and the latch fell into
-place as evenly and noiselessly as before. By this time I must confess
-to being slightly scared, and when a chair banged heavily on the floor
-and a loud shout of “Who’s that?” brought no sound of a retreating
-shuffle on the cobble-stones outside, I had to summon all my remaining
-courage to unbar and fling open the door. Not a soul or a sound met me
-as I stepped outside. The night was a light one in early September, so
-that a retreating figure could have been followed by the eye for twenty
-or thirty yards. After a careful look round the garden I went to bed
-nonplussed at the weirdness of the whole affair.
-
-The following day brought another intruder--a material one this time.
-I found that during the morning a travelling caravan had taken a pitch
-just outside my hedge; and its owner turned out to be an Oxford man,
-who, with his wife, was leading a vagabond life about the shires. He
-was an extremely well-read man, and we soon got on the best of terms,
-exchanging books and opinions, till he inspanned for pastures new a
-week later. The night before he left I was treated to another queer
-happening.
-
-We had been talking and reading in my tiny sitting-room till about
-eleven o’clock, when my vagabond friend bade me a sleepy “Good night”
-and opened the front door. He had, however, only just put his foot on
-the cobbles when he stepped backwards with a sharp exclamation, and a
-scared look on his face.
-
-“What’s up?” I asked.
-
-“It’s awfully queer,” he replied; “I could have sworn I saw a face
-looking straight at me close to that bush”--he pointed to the privet
-hedge at the left of the door--“but there didn’t seem to be any body to
-it. I’m certainly not drunk, but I may have been dreaming.”
-
-After my recent experience, which I had not thought it worth while
-to mention to such a hard-headed soul as my chance companion, I felt
-anything but comfortable. We were both rather ashamed of our brief
-lapse from common sense, and laughed the incident off as best we might.
-
-The following day found me in all the doubtful glory of my solitude
-once more, and I must confess to having been thankful when an
-invitation reached me that same evening, from friends at Fambridge, for
-a few days’ fishing.
-
-I have never suffered from that popular present-day malady known as
-“nerves,” possibly because of an open-air existence with plenty of
-exercise, but, though I had only been there a short time, the cottage
-and the locality now seemed to have become almost uncanny to me. Had
-I mixed more with the inhabitants, I should have discovered, as I did
-later, that this strange feeling was not without some foundation.
-
-The few days I spent in Fambridge put all thought of the two queer
-incidents out of my mind, which will show that the subsequent events
-were not the outcome of an overtaxed imagination or a course of long
-brooding upon disquieting phenomena.
-
-It must have been about nine o’clock in the evening that my Fambridge
-friend put a little Welsh pony into his governess-car to drive me back
-the four odd miles to my cottage. The night was fine, but there were
-clouds about and no moon, so that objects outside the radius of the
-lamps were hard to distinguish. The pony had already had a fairly hard
-day of it along the coast, but he was a sturdy little beast and pulled
-like a steam-engine, rattling us down to the outskirts of Canewdon in
-excellent time.
-
-We had been bowling along, talking about the day’s sport, and were
-now rapidly nearing a stile leading to a footpath upon the left of
-the road, which takes one by a short cut across a field, over another
-stile, into the churchyard, and so into the village High Street. We
-had barely reached the stile when the pony pulled up short, reared,
-and refused to go another step in that direction. The pony, always a
-strong and willing little chap, had never done such a thing in his life
-before, and my friend was not only puzzled but annoyed. A sound beating
-had no more effect than words of encouragement; there the little beggar
-stuck, his four legs splayed out, the picture of all that was most
-stubborn in nature, whilst we two sat in the car trying to devise some
-plan by which to budge him.
-
-My friend was at last obliged to ask me to take the short cut I have
-just spoken of instead of being driven round by the road the remaining
-mile and a half to my cottage. I was, of course, willing enough. The
-short cut would take me barely ten minutes, and I had very little
-to carry; so, bidding him “Good night,” I jumped out. As I came from
-behind the trap I noticed a tiny flickering light a few yards ahead,
-upon the left-hand side of the road, but it was very dim and did not
-arrest my attention sufficiently to make any impression on the mind. I
-was able to lead the pony round without any difficulty, and when his
-head faced Fambridge he seemed to recover his spirits at once, and the
-red points behind the lamps receded at a rattling pace up the road.
-When these had disappeared I turned again to climb the stile, but
-became at once uneasily conscious of something unusual a little way
-ahead of me.
-
-The spot the pony had refused at was a good deal shadowed by large
-elms, and these, together with the cloudy sky, made the road still
-more obscure. The small light, which I had taken little notice of at
-first--thinking it probably one of the village lights showing through
-the trees--was still ahead; only, instead of being upon the left of
-the road, it was now upon the right. For a few seconds I stood looking
-at it, feeling very much like turning tail and bolting down the road.
-The flame, for it was no other, showed greeny--white against the black
-background and shivered in a strange, eerie way.
-
-The most extraordinary part of the business was that it seemed to come
-from nothing visible, but to appear, as it were, burning in space three
-or four feet above the road.
-
-[Illustration: “THIS MYSTERIOUS SOMETHING TOOK THREE RAPID STRIDES
-ACROSS THE ROAD AND DISAPPEARED.”]
-
-I had, of course, read ghost stories in which “corpse candles” and
-ghostly lights of one sort and another figured largely, but I had never
-expected to come across one, and this could be translated in no other
-way.[2] The close proximity of the churchyard, with the square tower of
-the church itself showing through the trees, added too much colour to
-the scene to my liking; but, scared though I was, a certain fascination
-took hold of me, and I advanced a step or two in order to examine the
-phenomenon at closer range. I had scarcely taken two paces, however,
-when the clouds parted a little, giving a better light beneath the
-trees, and at the same moment the weird flame flickered wildly and
-went out.
-
-[Footnote 2: The light somewhat resembled the _ignis fatuus_, or
-will-o’-the-wisp, but was larger and greener in colour. Moreover, there
-was no pond or marshy ground anywhere near the road.]
-
-But this was not to be the end of my ghostly experience. The stronger
-light brought many roadside objects into prominence, and the moment
-the flame disappeared I became conscious of an indistinct black blotch
-against the lighter background of the hedge. It was, of course, too
-dark for me to be certain of its exact shape, even had I been in a calm
-enough state of mind to take in details; but in any case I was allowed
-only a momentary glimpse, for whilst I stood with the breath caught in
-my throat, this mysterious something took three rapid strides across
-the road and disappeared without a sound into the thick hawthorn hedge
-opposite.
-
-At this stage I must confess to having lost all control of myself.
-Without another look I took to my heels and ran, as though all the
-powers of darkness were behind me.
-
-The scare I had got made me quite oblivious of my direction, but I
-suppose natural instinct guided me, for I found myself at last, almost
-pumped out, trotting into the little High Street of Canewdon by the
-road along which I should have driven, and no doubt in far better time.
-I had no relish, in my then state of mind, for another lonely night in
-the cottage, although it stood only fifty yards away, so I made my way
-to the Chequers, the only inn the village possessed, and asked for a
-bed.
-
-My recent arrival in the place had given me little time to become
-acquainted with the village notables, but I fancy the landlady knew me
-by sight, and no doubt thought the request strange. In any case her
-“Certainly, sir,” was followed by a close scrutiny. “You’re looking
-very queer, sir,” she added; “has anything happened?”
-
-Surrounded by more human elements, I began to feel thoroughly ashamed
-of myself, and rather doubted the wisdom of giving the narrative away;
-but the thought that, perhaps, being a resident, she might be able to
-throw some light upon my weird experience finally decided me to make a
-clean breast of the whole affair; and I promptly did so in the little
-inn-parlour.
-
-I had barely got half-way through the incident upon the road when she
-sat back in her chair, and said in a quiet, almost matter-of-fact
-tone:--
-
-“You’ve seen the headless woman, sir.”
-
-“The headless woman?” I asked, startled. “Who’s she?”
-
-“I may as well tell you,” she replied, “though we don’t talk of it much
-here. Have you noticed a wooden house painted white, and standing alone
-about a hundred yards this way from the stile on the Fambridge road?”
-
-I said that I had, and thought it was a farmhouse.
-
-“Well, so it was till the murder happened,” replied the woman. “The
-story goes that somewhere about forty years ago a farmer there took to
-drink, went mad, and murdered his wife. He didn’t stop at that, either,
-for he cut off her head and buried it, and it wasn’t found till some
-time after the body had had decent burial.”
-
-“So she’s supposed to haunt the place?” I asked.
-
-“There’s no suppose about it, sir,” she replied, very quietly; “a tidy
-few people here have seen her, much the same as you did. My husband
-has, too, by the stile leading into the churchyard. It took him a week
-in bed to get over it. Sometimes it’s just a face, and sometimes just
-a black bundle like a body without a head; but always near one of them
-two stiles, and round about harvest time. Heaven send I never see the
-sight!” she concluded, devoutly.
-
-“I’m not particularly anxious to renew the acquaintance myself,” I
-replied, “but how do you account for the lifting of my latch?”
-
-“Well, I can’t say for certain, sir, but, if my memory serves me, there
-was a gaffer living in your cottage--he’s dead now many a year--who
-used to work at the White House and was there when the murder happened.
-He saw her pretty often in his garden, I’m told, but couldn’t be got to
-speak of it. It may be she walks there too.”
-
-I spent a very mixed kind of night at the inn, and on the following
-day returned to Fambridge and less ghostly company. From here I made
-arrangements for a change of quarters, and from that day to this I have
-not set eyes upon Canewdon, nor have I any inclination to do so.
-
-This strange happening is perhaps too strange for everybody’s
-belief. My “spirituous” state at the time is an opinion largely
-held by chaffing friends; but I ask that three points be taken into
-consideration. I am practically a teetotaller; my imagination is no
-more abnormal than that of most of my fellows; and, lastly, no whisper
-of ghostly visitations in the village had reached my ears prior to the
-narrative as told by the landlady.
-
-The whole affair would make an interesting little piece of
-investigation for the Psychical Research Society.
-
-
-
-
-[Illustration: SOME SAVAGE PASTIMES.]
-
-BY E. WAY ELKINGTON, F.R.G.S.
-
- Savages, big and little, play games like other folk, and some
- of their methods of amusing themselves are very curious indeed.
- Mr. Elkington has made a collection of the least-known and most
- peculiar pastimes, and here describes and illustrates them.
-
-
-Throughout the world there is a peculiar similarity in the games of
-the human race, and undoubtedly they all spring from the same sources,
-being the result of imitation, by children, of the duties and pleasures
-of the elder generation. In the savage races, however, we find them
-in their most primitive and interesting state, and in this article I
-propose to describe a few of the least known and most peculiar--some
-which I have myself witnessed, and others that I have collected from
-well-known travellers.
-
-As with ourselves, it is not only the children who play, and the
-pastimes of their grown-up brothers are equally interesting. Naturally
-the games of the elders require more skill, and in some cases
-considerably more endurance and fortitude. For instance, the whip game,
-played by the red-men of British Guiana, is one that calls forth the
-most enduring qualities of these sturdy natives, and is an ordeal in
-which few Englishmen would care to take part. The origin of it is not
-known; some say that it was originally an act in a burial scene, but
-more probably it is a festival game.
-
-For all functions in Guiana a copious supply of drink is prepared, the
-local name of which is “paiwarie.” This is a native-made fermented
-liquor, which has the desired effect, in its preliminary stages, of
-putting the drinkers into a good humour. After a certain quantity of
-“paiwarie” has been handed round, the players of the whip game, men and
-boys, line up in two rows facing one another; each is provided with a
-whip ornamented with fibre tassels, those of the two end players having
-whistles attached. When all is ready a gentle stamping is commenced,
-which gradually grows louder and louder till the earth begins to throb
-and the players show signs of getting worked up. Then shouts of “Yau,
-au!” are heard, and the now excited players wave their whips and sway
-gently backwards and forwards as they stamp their feet. Presently the
-two end men with the whistles attached to their whips pass down the
-centre of the row, whilst those lined up move slowly in an opposite
-direction. Now the stamping increases and the whistlers whistle at each
-other in wild excitement. Then they begin waving their whips at one
-other, feigning to strike with tremendous force, but finally they come
-down on their opponents’ calves with only a mere touch. After this has
-gone on for some time the two leaders run back to their original places
-at the head of the row, and others go out and do as they have done.
-
-When all the players have gone through this exhibition the real
-business begins; so far it has only been play.
-
-The women now come on to the scene bearing calabashes of wine, which is
-greedily swallowed, and then two of the players challenge each other to
-a real whipping competition.
-
-Silence soon prevails, and the onlookers take up their places ready to
-watch this extraordinary ordeal.
-
-As soon as the challenge has been accepted the two men step out in
-front of the audience and stand facing each other. As a rule they are
-splendidly-built fellows, and as they wear practically no clothing for
-this ceremony, their physical development is very noticeable.
-
-Cautiously they judge their distance, letting the lash of the whip
-just touch their adversary’s calf. When they have thoroughly satisfied
-themselves that they can get a perfect swing, one of them stands
-firmly, half turned away from the other, who immediately swings his
-whip with tremendous force and brings it down on his opponent’s calf
-with a crack like the report of a gun.
-
-[Illustration: THE EXTRAORDINARY “WHIP GAME” OF BRITISH GUIANA--THE
-COMPETITORS SLASH AT ONE ANOTHER’S BARE LEGS IN TURN, OFTEN CUTTING
-DEEP INTO THE FLESH. [_From a Photograph._]]
-
-The man who has received this blow, though it has in all probability
-cut right into his calf, does not flinch, but joins the whipper in a
-wild sort of dance, accompanied by loud shouts of “Yau, au!” Again the
-same man presents his calf to be cut at, again the lash descends, and
-more dancing follows, until it is time for the other man to go through
-the same ordeal. When he has had his share the two adjourn to the hut
-and indulge freely in “paiwarie,” and other players take their places,
-until all the grown-ups have tasted of the delights of the game. The
-younger fry then step forth and challenge each other. Women, of course,
-do not take any active part in this weird performance beyond handing
-round the drinks.
-
-Though this is rather a strenuous game, there are many less painful
-ones with which the children amuse themselves. One of these, called
-the “Jaguar Game,” is similar to our own “Fox and Geese.” A long
-procession of boys line up and grip each other by the shoulders, and
-sway backwards and forwards crying out, “There is no jaguar to-day!”
-Whilst they are singing this merrily, a youngster bears down upon them
-from his hiding-place amongst the onlookers. He comes running along
-on his hands and one leg, the other leg being raised in the air to
-represent the tail of the jaguar. On his appearance the whole line of
-boys is thrown into confusion; they grow wildly excited and swerve and
-sway, and dodge round, always keeping in a long, snake-like line, with
-the foremost boy facing their adversary, the jaguar. It is the jaguar’s
-duty to catch the last one in the row and bear him off to his lair.
-
-Sometimes this game is varied by the jaguar having two young cubs with
-her, who also run on “all threes”; they add greatly to the excitement
-of the sport by snapping, snarling, and generally behaving as young
-cubs should. The game goes on till all the row has been captured.
-
-In the “Monkey Game” laughter reaches its highest point, for this is
-one of the wildest they play; and not only the children indulge in it,
-but the grown-up men sometimes take it into their heads to play it,
-when it assumes a very different aspect. With the children it is pure
-fun, with little or no danger attaching to it.
-
-A crowd of youngsters line up and move about like monkeys who are
-merely enjoying themselves. Suddenly one of them stops and gives vent
-to a shriek of fear; the others take up the cry and immediately break
-their line and run wildly all over the place, chattering excitedly.
-When the simulated panic is at its height the smaller boys spring on to
-the backs of the bigger ones, and are raced about all over the place
-till fatigue puts an end to the fun. When their elders play the “Monkey
-Game,” however, they often become so worked up that they really behave
-like a crowd of monkeys gone stark, staring mad.
-
-Sir Everard F. im Thurn, K.C.M.G., at present Governor of Fiji, to whom
-I am indebted for the photographs of these Guiana games, relates a most
-trying experience he went through during one of these mad frolics. He
-says that the players suddenly burst in amongst the huts, swarmed up
-the roofs, tearing great mouthfuls of thatch away in their flight,
-and then dashed into the rooms, upsetting everything they came across
-and destroying food and furniture. “The old man of the settlement and
-his wife, in real anxiety for their goods, tried to protect what they
-could, tearing it even from out of the ’monkeys’’ hands or throwing
-food to them to distract their attention from more valuable property.
-At last, with the help of two bystanders, the old man secured the more
-violent of the players, and, despite some too genuine scratchings
-and bitings, managed to fasten them by ropes round their loins,
-monkey-wise, to the posts of houses. At last five had been so caught
-and tied in one house; and then, if there had been uproar before, there
-was pandemonium now. The captives screamed and shrieked and yelled;
-they rolled as far as their cords would allow, and tore with their
-teeth everything that came in their way: food, clothes, hammocks, pans,
-and calabashes.... The whole mighty uproar only ceased when all were
-literally too tired to do more.”
-
-This quaint instance of a game running away with its players seems
-strange to us, but probably if a savage saw some of our football
-matches he, too, might think the players had suddenly gone mad.
-
-[Illustration: THE “SHIELD GAME,” IN WHICH THE COMPETITORS ENDEAVOUR TO
-PUSH ONE ANOTHER OVER--TRIBAL DISPUTES ARE OCCASIONALLY SETTLED WITHOUT
-BLOODSHED BY CHOSEN TEAMS. [_From a Photograph._]]
-
-The “Shield Game” is another pastime of the grown-up natives. In this
-each man is provided with a strong shield made of palm-leaf stalks.
-Armed with this he faces his opponent. After much preliminary stamping
-and feigning they close and a mighty struggle commences, in which each
-man endeavours to push his adversary back. It is a kind of tug-of-war
-reversed. Besides being a game, it is often used as a means to settle
-disputes, in which, of course, the strongest man wins. The accompanying
-photograph gives an excellent idea of the pastime. Occasionally when
-tribes fall out a whole line of experts are chosen from each side, and
-the dispute is settled without bloodshed by the success of either side.
-It will be gleaned from this that the quality of “pushfulness” has an
-added value in British Guiana.
-
-To go back to the games of children and also to jump a few thousand
-miles to the west, we find some interesting and curious pastimes among
-the aboriginals of Australia, where the young idea copies the ways of
-its fathers and makes games of their serious ceremonies. Amongst other
-things they play at marriage, taking some of the romantic details prior
-to the ceremony to make their game. In some parts of Australia an
-aboriginal has first to catch his wife before he can marry her, and
-the youngsters have probably heard from their mothers that this was not
-always the easiest thing to do, for there may have been others anxious
-to wed her--provided always that she was a good worker, looks being
-of small account. So the children have taken all these things into
-consideration and made their game from them.
-
-As these aborigines have no proper villages, but live in shelters
-thrown together in the most primitive fashion, the children choose a
-spot in the bush where Nature has made a sort of covering; they then
-congregate and imitate grown-up people, chattering about nothing in
-particular, whilst the young man hovers round in the bush. Suddenly
-he bears down on the players and attempts to abduct one of the girls.
-This arouses the others, who all try to stop him, and one of the young
-gallants attacks the would-be abductor and a mock fight ensues, the
-winner bearing the maiden off in triumph to the bush.
-
-[Illustration: AN AUSTRALIAN ABORIGINAL CORROBOREE
-
-_From a Photo. by permission of the Queensland Government._]
-
-Amongst the men there are few real games; they all seem to take life
-rather seriously, and as soon as they are grown up they devote their
-whole time to obtaining food and taking part in the numerous religious
-ceremonies, some of which are most elaborate and trying functions. To
-us these may appear very like games, but to the aborigines they are
-particularly sacred. Of late years, however, they have turned one or
-two of these ceremonies into dances or corroborees, but probably this
-has been done to amuse the whites and extract money from them--like the
-Maoris, who now dance the “Haka” as if it were a spectacular dance for
-the benefit of the Pakeha. With the coming of civilization and peace
-some phases of its serious import have gone. The photograph given above
-shows Australian aborigines performing the kangaroo dance, which is
-a modified exhibition of one of their ancient ceremonies. It is not
-an exciting affair, nor beautiful, as these savages are not adepts at
-dancing. All they do is to crawl about, stamping and gesticulating,
-whilst the man dressed as a kangaroo goes backwards and forwards and up
-and down the line with a sort of high-stepping action. This kangaroo
-dance at one time had a significant meaning, and was probably danced in
-connection with an old-time legend, but, like many similar ceremonies,
-it is now carried on simply because the ancestors of the present
-generation taught it. This in itself would be quite sufficient to keep
-the most absurd custom alive, for ancestors are held in great reverence
-amongst savages.
-
-One of the most amusing games I have ever witnessed in savage lands was
-in New Zealand, where I saw a crowd of children dancing an imitation
-“Haka.” The “Haka,” when danced seriously by grown-ups, is a most
-awe-inspiring and thrilling exhibition which stirs every nerve in your
-body; but when children dance it, it becomes a grotesque and laughable
-affair. The Maoris, men, women, and children, have a well-developed
-sense of humour, which is more than most savages have, and the word
-“savage” hardly applies to them, for more civilized and Christian
-beings would be hard to find. When white men first came in contact with
-them they found them anything but civilized except in their ideas of
-justice, in which they were able to give us lessons; in hospitality
-even now they can put a white man to shame. However, for the purpose of
-this article I will call them savages.
-
-The children from their earliest days begin to laugh. I do not remember
-ever seeing one cry--and they seem to spend the rest of their days with
-a smile hovering somewhere near their faces, ready at the slightest
-provocation to come out. As the “Haka” is composed of a series of body
-movements, in which facial expression plays a prominent part, the
-children have plenty of scope to caricature the whole performance,
-which they turn into a merry pantomime, stamping and shouting, rolling
-their eyes, and hanging out their tongues in curious imitation of the
-real performers. The girls, too, have their dances, and these are
-really both pretty and interesting, for they are handsome creatures who
-know they are good looking, and enjoy showing themselves off to the
-best advantage, as one can see by the pretty and fascinating movements
-of the various dances they practise. The only thing that mars them is
-their anxiety to make grotesque faces every now and then, but perhaps
-this too is done by way of contrast. The men have the same failing, and
-though their expressions are more savage they do not add to the charm
-of the dances. To perform a dance of welcome in front of a visiting
-tribe, and pull horrible faces at them the while, is hardly likely to
-make the visitors feel at home, but the Maoris understand it, and so do
-not get cross, as you and I might.
-
-[Illustration: MAORI BOYS PERFORMING THE “HAKA.”
-
-_From a Photo. by permission of the New Zealand Government Tourist
-Department._]
-
-In the Solomon Islands, British New Guinea, and the New Hebrides the
-children are also of a playful disposition and have many games which
-resemble ours, such as leap-frog and pick-a-back, whilst the elder
-generation have musical instruments resembling the jews’ harp, the
-fiddle, and the Pandean pipes.
-
-[Illustration: A YOUNG NICOBARESE ISLANDER PLAYING A FLAGEOLET WITH HIS
-NOSE.
-
-_From a Photo. by E. H. Man._]
-
-Certain musical instruments are more or less common all over the world,
-but often the method of playing them differs, as the accompanying
-photograph will show. It represents a young Nicobarese playing a reed
-flageolet with his nose! Lots of people in the most civilized lands
-sing through their noses, but playing through them is, I believe,
-only practised in savage lands. In these same islands the natives
-have a sounding-board which I suppose they would call a musical
-instrument, for it takes the place of the well-known tom-tom used in
-other countries. Here it is beaten to keep time for dancers. It is a
-curiously constructed instrument, resembling a native shield; in fact,
-some travellers have mistaken it for one. Scooped out of the trunk of
-a tree in the same way that ordinary dug-out canoes are made, it is
-about five feet long and two or three feet broad; like a shield, it is
-concave in shape. One of the ends is pointed, and when in use this is
-stuck in the ground diagonally; a stone is placed under the other end
-to raise it. To play it the native plants one foot firmly on the buried
-end whilst he strikes the board with his disengaged foot.
-
-“Musical” entertainments are popular in the Nicobar Islands, and the
-young men vie with each other in composing ditties which they hope will
-become popular and thus make them famous. So far none of these songs
-have been pirated in England, but this does not say that in the islands
-they are not “all the go.” Such tunes are composed to be sung to the
-accompaniment of the sounding-board and dances. These, among the women,
-resemble more than anything else the antics of timid ladies bathing at
-the seaside. The dancing of the men is not much help to the musician
-either, as it consists of a few movements rather like dumb-bell
-exercises for chest development, so that it can be understood that the
-young Nicobarese has no light task before him when he seeks fame in
-composition.
-
-[Illustration: A CURIOUS DANCE POPULAR IN THE NICOBAR ISLANDS.
-
-_From a Photo. by E. H. Man._]
-
-On the West Coast of Africa there is a remarkably interesting dance
-in which the movements of the dancer supply the “music.” For the
-particulars of this dance and for the photograph of the performers I
-have to thank Mr. T. J. Alldridge, some time District Commissioner.
-The native dancing girls wear most fantastic garments. Their bodies
-are covered with a net made of native cotton, from which hang great
-bunches of palm-leaf fibre. Tufts of the same material decorate their
-wrists and waists, and some wear curious knicker-bockers. To these
-latter garments are attached small pieces of hollow iron, from which
-rings are hung, and when the dancer gets in full swing these make a
-curious jingling noise. An accompaniment is also played by other women
-on another quaint instrument called a _sehgura_, which is made out of a
-hollow gourd covered with a net, on which are fixed a number of seeds.
-To produce the sound the ends of the net are held in the two hands and
-tightened and slackened alternately, while rhythmic shaking is now and
-then indulged in to vary the accompaniment.
-
-In this part of the world there are several interesting games of
-chance, for natives are inveterate gamblers and will stake all they
-possess--huts, wearing apparel, and even their wives. One of their
-favourite pastimes is played with a concave board, which is put on the
-ground facing the players, who stand or squat a little way off. They
-then spin a sort of top into and across it until one of them fails to
-send it with sufficient force to carry it to the far end; it is then
-the business of the next man to spin his top with sufficient force to
-drive his opponent’s out, and so beat him.
-
-Gambling seems to be common in all parts of the world; the Eskimo have
-many interesting games where chance and skill are combined. One called
-“nuglutang” is very popular and is played by several men at a time.
-From the centre of the room (generally from the roof) is slung a plate
-of ivory having a hole in its centre. The Eskimos stand away from it,
-and each in turn endeavours to throw a stick through the orifice.
-In one of their games, called “saketan,” they have a curious way of
-“staking.” The game is a sort of roulette; a board is placed on the
-ground, and a small cup with rounded bottom and a lip is spun on to it.
-The man in front of whom the lip stops is the winner, but, unlike most
-winners, he is actually a loser, for he has to go and fetch something
-to pay in as a stake, which the next “winner” takes, but he in turn
-pays in another forfeit in its place for the man who follows. So the
-game goes on until the last man wins, and he appropriates the stakes
-out and out, making himself the only real winner, whereas the first
-player to whom the cup pointed is the only loser in a game which causes
-the wildest excitement whilst the issue is in doubt.
-
-[Illustration: WEST AFRICAN DANCING GIRLS.
-
-_From a Photograph._]
-
-It is a peculiar thing that string games, like some others already
-mentioned, are popular all over the world amongst the coloured races,
-and what is perhaps far more extraordinary is the fact, recently
-discovered, that some of these string figures are made in exactly the
-same way, and are of the same design in places as widely apart as
-America, the South Sea Islands, and Japan. The last photograph, taken
-by Mr. William A. Cunnington, shows a very interesting string figure
-from Central Africa called “Sumbo” (a fishing net), which is by no
-means a simple one.
-
-For the description of this figure and permission to reproduce the
-photograph I have to thank the Secretary of the Anthropological
-Institute.
-
-Besides having tricks of this sort in which the hands only are
-employed, there are many now known which are made with hands and feet,
-and others again are worked round the neck and the hands.
-
-Dr. Haddon has made a particular study of the subject, and has, in
-collaboration with Dr. Rivers, published particulars of many of the
-string tricks performed in various parts of the world.
-
-[Illustration: STRING GAMES ARE POPULAR ALL OVER THE WORLD--HERE IS AN
-INTERESTING FIGURE FROM CENTRAL AFRICA.
-
-_From a Photograph._]
-
-
-
-
-_The Marriage of Lulu._
-
-BY THE REV. A. FORDER, OF JERUSALEM.
-
- The author is a missionary who has travelled extensively in the
- East, and is thoroughly familiar with the wild tribes of the
- desert. In the subjoined narrative he relates the love-story of
- a young Arab girl--a real life romance with the conventional
- happy ending of fiction.
-
-
-It was that time of the day which Orientals call _asr_, between
-four o’clock and sunset--just the time when the Arab chief likes to
-be on hand so that he may receive and welcome any who may seek the
-hospitality and shelter afforded by his simple home, and see for
-himself that sufficient food for man and beast is provided, so that
-both may sup and be satisfied.
-
-On a certain afternoon Sheikh Khaleel sat at his tent door watching the
-sun slowly sink toward the west, wondering, as he pulled at the dying
-embers in his pipe, if it would be his lot to entertain any guest that
-night.
-
-As his sharp eyes looked out from under his shaggy eyebrows he saw
-in the distance a rider mounted on a camel, whose head was directed
-straight for the camp under the chief’s control.
-
-It was not long before both camel and rider stood at the door of the
-guest-tent, and the chief, having tethered the ship of the desert to
-one of the tent-pegs, invited his guest to enter, and at once set about
-preparing the coffee according to Arab custom.
-
-The new arrival, whose name was Abd-el-Thullam (the servant of cruelty)
-was well known to the Arabs for scores of miles round, and a visit from
-him always meant something unusual and of importance, hence the wonder
-of the host and his neighbours at the coming of one with so uninviting
-a name, which was obtained by deeds that gave subject for conversation
-around many a camp-fire after supper. Speculations as to the coming of
-this well-known chief were many, and although not audibly expressed
-filled the minds of all present, and of none more so than the women,
-who were separated from the menfolk only by the coarse goats’-hair
-curtain that divided the tent. Little did the host’s only daughter
-think that she was the cause of this unexpected visitor coming among
-them, or how much his presence meant to her and others.
-
-Arab etiquette forbids any direct asking of questions or quizzing
-into the affairs of a guest, so both before and after supper the
-conversation was upon subjects far away from the one that had brought
-Abd-el-Thullam into the camp of Sheikh Khaleel, and the simple folk of
-the wilderness closed their eyes in sleep without having the faintest
-idea of the object of Abd-el-Thullam’s visit.
-
-With the morning light the camp was astir, both men and women going
-about their daily callings, each one wondering what the day would
-reveal. After the matutinal cup of coffee the guest made known the
-object of his coming, doing so in such forceful and measured language
-as to impress upon the little company of listeners the fact that his
-wishes must be complied with.
-
-Condensed into a few words, the rather lengthy speech of the “servant
-of cruelty” was somewhat as follows: “Sheikh Khaleel, may Allah grant
-you a long life and build your house (grant you sons to perpetuate your
-name and family). To the women of my household I desire to add another,
-for has not our Prophet given us permission to have four wives? Already
-I have three. Now I have come to ask for your daughter, and am ready
-to give the price that you may ask for her. As I am to join a raiding
-party in a few days the matter must be settled at once. May Allah give
-you patience and wisdom.”
-
-The statement was so unexpected that no one could make reply for a
-minute or so. At last the silence was broken by Khaleel saying, “The
-will of Allah be done! What is decreed must come to pass.”
-
-Now, the business of a betrothal and marriage is not usually hurried
-among Arabs, for much talking is necessary to settle the price of the
-bride, and time is needed in which to pay the amount agreed upon, and
-to arrange and comply with the wedding festivities and customs. Hence
-Sheikh Khaleel and his neighbours were surprised in a two-fold way,
-first by the boldness of the request, and secondly by the desire to
-hasten the matter. So, reminding the impatient suitor that “God was
-with the patient ones,” Khaleel bade him wait a while.
-
-But the man desirous of many wives pressed his claim and asked the
-price of the girl, again saying that he was ready to give whatever was
-asked.
-
-All the while Khaleel had been wondering if this was not his chance to
-make a good bargain, although for two reasons he was loath to part with
-his daughter, whose name was Lulu (the pearl). Was she not his only
-daughter--in fact, the only child Allah had spared to him? Moreover,
-although there had been no formal or public betrothal, he knew well
-enough that Lulu’s heart and affections had already been won by a young
-man of his own camp and community. But here was the opportunity to
-drive a good and hard bargain. And what did it matter, after all? It
-was only about a girl, who might any day be taken ill and die; also, he
-might have to get her off at a small return later on if he allowed this
-chance to slip by.
-
-At last Khaleel spoke, making known the terms on which his daughter
-could become the fourth wife of the unwelcome guest. They were as
-follows: a mare, one hundred goats, fifty sheep, and two hundred silver
-medjidiehs (each worth three and fourpence), all to be paid within
-three days, with the stipulation that, should Lulu die before the time
-for taking her to her new home, viz., seven days of feasting, the above
-payment should become the sole property of Chief Khaleel, her father.
-In addition to the above the new son-in-law was to give for five
-successive years one hundred measures of new wheat and fifty of barley.
-
-The terms were received in silence, and anyone glancing at the faces
-of those assembled could gather that each thought the price high, but
-all knew that the visiting chief was rich and well able to pay the fee
-demanded, if he chose to do so.
-
-Nearly the whole day was spent in arguing, persuasion, and calculation,
-but Sheikh Khaleel was immovable, the more so as he saw a chance of
-getting his terms.
-
-Finding that talking was of no avail, Abd-el-Thullam finally consented
-to the terms on condition that, as soon as the purchase price was paid,
-the seven days of wedding festivities should commence. To this Khaleel
-gave his consent, and, although the day was far spent, the prospective
-bridegroom mounted a horse which had been brought for him and rode
-away, leaving the camel on which he had arrived as an earnest of his
-return. For three days the camel was tied before the guest-tent, and
-was only redeemed just in time to save it from being forfeited.
-
-We must now leave the guest-tent and for a time consider some other
-people who were keenly interested in the happenings just related.
-
-First, a word about Lulu. As already stated, she was the only child of
-her father, and, such being the case, she was naturally better cared
-for and more thought of than if there had been rivals in the shape
-of brothers. Her father spared her in many ways the indignities so
-commonly imposed upon females in the East, one distinction between her
-and other girls of the tribe being that her face had not been tattooed.
-
-At the time of our story her age was about fourteen. The bloom of
-youth on her cheek, with the uprightness of figure so common among
-Arab girls, made her queenly in appearance in spite of her oft-patched
-flowing robes.
-
-Among her own kith and kin she reigned supreme, for, having lost her
-mother soon after her birth, she had claimed the nursing and attention
-of most of the women in the camp; hence she was ruled by none and
-spoiled by all.
-
-[Illustration: “FOR THREE DAYS THE CAMEL WAS TIED BEFORE THE
-GUEST-TENT.”
-
-_From a Photograph._]
-
-Some of the youths, too, had paid her attention, and, having grown up
-side by side with her, were more than mere friends. One, whose name was
-Abd-Salaam (the servant of peace), had even found it in his heart to
-love her, which aspiration he knew was not in vain, for on more than
-one occasion Lulu had assured him that when the time came for her to
-become a wife none but the “servant of peace” would suffice.
-
-Now it so happened that all that had passed and been settled in the
-guest-tent between father and visitor was unknown to either Lulu or
-her lover, for the former had been away all day gathering fuel on the
-hill-sides in company with another girl, while Abd-Salaam had gone with
-others to a distant town in charge of some sheep, the day he left the
-camp being the one on which the wife-seeker arrived.
-
-It is customary among the Arabs for the girl who is to be betrothed not
-to be consulted as to any likes or dislikes on her part, and she knows
-nothing about her being traded off to some stranger until informed by
-having the large outer garment of the suitor thrown around her, and
-hearing the announcement that she belongs to him.
-
-The surprise of Lulu, therefore, on her return to the camp may be
-imagined when the scribe of the community approached her and, all
-unawares, covered her with a large camel-hair _abba_, saying, “The name
-of God be with thee, O Lulu. None shall have thee but Abd-el-Thullam.”
-
-Surprised as she was, she threw off the cloak and entered the tent,
-inwardly vowing that none should have her but the constant companion of
-her girlhood. With the liberty allowed her as the chief’s daughter she
-went into the guest-tent, and, with hands clenched and determination
-written on her face, informed her father that her home and lot should
-not be among strangers, and that the hated “servant of cruelty” should
-be no husband of hers. In this way warfare was declared, and the
-probability of trouble in the near future announced.
-
-That night she was sprinkled with sheep’s blood, as a sign that her
-life belonged to another. Next day she was accompanied by the women to
-a spring, and, according to custom, thoroughly washed and purified,
-while on the day following busy fingers worked incessantly making
-a wedding-robe for the supposed bride. Lulu tolerated all these
-formalities in silence, but inwardly decided that, do what they would
-and act as they might, she would never be the bride of the one who was
-to supplant the choice of long ago.
-
-The afternoon of the third day came round, but no suitor with the
-price of the bride had appeared, and it looked as though Lulu would
-be released from her probable marriage, and her father become the
-possessor of a camel for little trouble. Just an hour before sunset,
-however, a cloud of dust in the distance told of the coming of flocks,
-and ere the golden orb disappeared altogether Abd-el-Thullam had
-handed over what was demanded in return for his prospective bride. The
-bleating of the sheep and the clinking of the silver pieces only made
-Lulu vow afresh that no tent of a stranger should shelter her.
-
-The price having been paid in the presence of witnesses, the wedding
-festivities commenced. The firing of old flint-lock guns was the signal
-that announced holiday-keeping for a week. Sheep were killed, bread
-baked in abundance, and coffee-drinking went on continuously. This is a
-time much appreciated by the dwellers of the wilderness, for then they
-are able to satisfy the cravings of hunger and for once in a season eat
-until satisfied.
-
-Whilst the men raced on their horses or fought imaginary battles, the
-women whiled away the hours in dancing, singing, or sipping coffee
-between puffs at their long pipes. So the days passed, and the end of
-the marriage feast approached.
-
-Only Lulu took no part or interest in all that was going on, and as the
-men or women chanted in turn the virtues, praises, and good fortune
-of both bride and bridegroom, it all fell like water on a duck’s back
-so far as the girl-bride was concerned. Inwardly she longed for the
-return of her boy lover, so that he might in some way intervene to stop
-the proceedings, and so win her for himself according to their mutual
-pledge.
-
-But the “servant of peace” did not come, for the demand in the town for
-sheep was poor, and he had to wait many days ere the flock was disposed
-of and he free to return to his goats’-hair home. As time and tide
-wait for no man, neither did the last day of the wedding festivities
-tarry, and all too soon for the greatly-distressed Lulu the seventh day
-dawned, and with it no visible escape from what seemed her inevitable
-fate.
-
-With the constant attention of the women, escape by flight was
-well-nigh impossible, but before noon a probable way of deliverance
-presented itself which Lulu was not slow to grasp. A small company of
-gipsies arrived at the camp, one of whom--an old woman--professed a
-knowledge of drugs, and verified her statements by producing a small
-box of mysterious-looking compounds in powder.
-
-The arrival of the party drew away attention from Lulu, but she engaged
-the attention of the vender of drugs, and elicited from her the fact
-that among her wares was poison. It was only the work of a few minutes
-to exchange cash for a mysterious powder, directions for the use of
-which were imparted to Lulu in an undertone.
-
-As evening drew on preparations were made for the sending away after
-supper of bride and bridegroom. The camel that was to carry Lulu to her
-new home was decorated and made ready, and the torches and tom-toms
-seen to and handed out to those who were to accompany the procession on
-its way to the camp of Abd-el-Thullam. It seemed that nothing remained
-to be done save to partake of supper and start.
-
-[Illustration: “IT WAS ONLY THE WORK OF A FEW MINUTES TO EXCHANGE CASH
-FOR A MYSTERIOUS POWDER.”]
-
-During the serving of the unusually large meal, which occupied the
-attention of the women for a time, Lulu slipped out backwards under
-the rear curtain of the tent and disappeared. Few missed her for a
-time, for all were busy, but when the call was given, “Bring out the
-bride and let her husband claim her,” great was the astonishment, for
-no bride was on hand. One abused the other, and the angry bridegroom
-accused his host of treachery and would have shot him but for the
-interference of others, who reminded him again that Allah was with the
-patient ones.
-
-All denied that the girl was dead, for had they not seen her alive only
-a short time before? She would return soon, they said, and put an end
-to the confusion and mystery.
-
-Meanwhile scouts were sent out around the camp, only to return later
-without tidings of the fugitive. All that night watch was kept, but
-morning dawned without the mystery being solved, and as the day wore
-on speculations were indulged in as to whom the purchase price of
-Lulu belonged, for, although she had now disappeared, she on her part
-had not done anything within the seven days of the feast to cause her
-intended master to claim the price paid for her. The sun set again
-without any light being shed on the disappearance or whereabouts of the
-girl-bride, and Abd-el-Thullam was furious at being balked of his prey,
-swearing by every oath available that he would lose neither wife nor
-purchase price, even if the regaining of one or the other made lifelong
-enmity between the two tribes.
-
-[Illustration: “AN OLD TOMB HEWN IN THE SIDE OF THE CISTERN.”
-
-[_From a Photograph._]]
-
-We must now leave the puzzled company in the guest-tent and see what
-had become of Lulu. After slipping under the tent-cloth, she commenced
-to run as fast as her bare feet would permit her. In her excitement and
-joy at being free she cared little in which direction she fled, and
-although the night was unusually dark, by reason of heavy storm-clouds,
-she sped on over hill and valley until thoroughly tired and exhausted.
-As she rested her weary little frame on the soft herbage of the
-wilderness the solitude and stillness made her nervous and afraid.
-Her trepidation was not lessened by a sudden movement near her--made,
-probably, by a jackal more alarmed than herself.
-
-The fright made her rise quickly and again take to flight, but after
-running a few hundred yards misfortune overtook her, for, without
-warning, she tripped and fell headlong into an old unused cistern quite
-twenty-five feet deep. The fall made her unconscious, and as the pit
-was far from the camp she was safe for that night, while a tangle of
-creepers and thorns over the mouth of the cavity made her fairly secure
-by day.
-
-Here, bruised and unconscious, the poor little bride-to-be lay until
-daybreak, when, with the rising sun, her senses returned to her. Having
-considered her surroundings, she decided to secure herself further by
-creeping into an old tomb hewn in the side of the cistern, where at
-least she could die in peace rather than be the slave of one utterly
-distasteful to her. So, with one last fond thought for her absent
-lover, she swallowed the gipsy’s potion and crawled into the small
-aperture. Here she soon fell into a stupor, caused partly by weariness,
-but mainly by the powder bought from the old drug-vender.
-
-But what had become of the boy-lover all these days that he had not
-returned to the camp and become conversant with all that had happened
-to his little companion?
-
-As already stated, he was delayed by a slack market; but after some
-days he was free to return, and, in charge of two camels, he set out
-for his wilderness home. On the day after Lulu’s escape he was crossing
-the great plain, happy at the prospect of reaching camp before evening.
-Being somewhat religiously inclined, he halted at noonday to pray, and
-soon after remounting was warned to seek shelter from a storm that
-was announced by a sharp crack of thunder. Looking about him he saw a
-cavity in the ground wide and high enough to allow his camels to enter.
-By dint of pulling, coaxing, and beating he forced the beasts in, and
-at last all three found themselves in the same pit into which Lulu had
-fallen the night before.
-
-[Illustration: “HE HALTED AT NOONDAY TO PRAY.”
-
-_From a Photograph._]
-
-[Illustration: “SUDDENLY HE WAS SEEN TO FALL HEAVILY.”]
-
-The heavy rain dripping through the opening above made the youth seek
-better shelter, so he presently crept into the old tomb, and, to his
-amazement, found that it was already occupied by someone apparently
-deep in slumber.
-
-Curiosity made him try to rouse the sleeper, but it was of no use.
-Crawling farther in, it was not long before the amazed camel-boy
-discovered that the insensible girl was his dearly-loved Lulu. Assuring
-himself that she was not dead, and, of course, ignorant of the
-circumstances that had brought her to the cavern, he left her, and,
-taking the best of the two camels, rode off post-haste to carry the
-news of Lulu’s condition to the camp and get help.
-
-The announcement caused a good deal of talk, stir, and excitement,
-which was suddenly put a stop to by Abd-el-Thullam jumping on his mare
-and making off at full speed toward the cavern, hoping to be the first
-to secure his dearly-bought bride.
-
-Others joined in the race, but it seemed as if no one would overtake
-the eager chief, when suddenly he was seen to fall heavily, having been
-thrown to the ground by his mare putting her foot into a hole.
-
-He did not move, and when the others reached him they discovered to
-their consternation that he had broken his neck and was quite dead.
-Instead of a reluctant bride being escorted to the distant camp,
-therefore, the corpse of the unfortunate chief was carried thither.
-
-On reaching the cavern the men found Lulu still deep in the
-drug-induced slumber, and, making a rough litter out of their roomy
-outer garments, they carried her to their camp and laid her on her rude
-bed of heather and dry grass.
-
-Fortunately, the old gipsy-woman had not left the camp, and now, taking
-in the situation, she administered a dose of some concoction that soon
-had the effect of rousing the sleeper and making her able to explain
-her presence in the rock-hewn tomb.
-
-Slowly but surely Lulu regained vigour, and the old youthful spirit
-came again, much to the joy of Abd-Salaam and her father. After a few
-weeks another marriage feast was kept, for there was now no obstacle to
-the wedding of the lovers, the price of the bride having been paid by
-the ill-fated “servant of cruelty.” The affair was hurried this time,
-for the feast was to have a happy ending; love, instead of custom, had
-won the day.
-
-
-
-
-[Illustration: THE BREAKER OF RECORDS.]
-
-BY HERBERT G. PONTING, F.R.G.S
-
- The amusing story of an American who set out to eclipse the
- round-the-world record. The author, himself a globe-trotter of
- many years’ standing, describes him as “the most extraordinary
- man I ever met,” and after reading the narrative we fancy the
- reader will be inclined to agree with him.
-
-
-I met him at Dalny, in August, 1903--the year before war broke out
-between Japan and Russia.
-
-I had been travelling in Manchuria, and had come down from Mukden only
-just in time to catch, by the skin of my teeth, the weekly steamer to
-Japan. The train was more than an hour late, and the drosky that I
-hired at the station--with my luggage piled in anyhow by the Chinese
-porters--had been driven by the dishevelled moujik in charge at a pace
-that laughed at speed limits and scorned such trifling obstacles as
-ruts and holes nearly a foot in depth.
-
-As we tore up to the steamer’s berth at the great wharf, that was later
-to prove of such inestimable value to the Japanese, the driver shouting
-and lashing his three horses into foam, the gangway was on the point of
-being lowered, and I had horrible visions of having to spend a week in
-that most dead of dead-alive towns, in which I already seemed to know
-every house.
-
-With commendable courtesy, however, the officials permitted me to get
-myself and effects on board, and a moment later we were steaming out
-into the fine harbour.
-
-The steamer was the _Mongolia_, which had the misfortune six months
-later to be the first Russian vessel captured by the Japanese.
-
-I was leaning over the rail, watching the hills receding from view,
-when I suddenly felt a tap on my shoulder, and on looking round was
-confronted by a rather sallow-faced, wiry-looking individual of medium
-height, with steel-grey eyes that seemed to pierce through mine clean
-into my brain.
-
-[Illustration: “THE DRIVER SHOUTING AND LASHING HIS THREE HORSES INTO
-FOAM.”]
-
-“Say, d’you speak English?” he asked me.
-
-I admitted that, being an Englishman, I had a moderate command of the
-language.
-
-“Well, I ain’t English, I’m Amur’can,” he replied.
-
-“So I see.”
-
-“Well, say now, how’d you know I was Amur’can?”
-
-“By your accent; one would scarcely make the mistake of taking you for
-anything else.”
-
-“Well, say, you’re smart enough to be an Amur’can, too, at that rate.
-Anyhow, I’m mighty glad to see you, for since I parted with my friend,
-who went to Port Arthur, I ain’t had a chance of hearin’ a language
-that anyone could understand. I’m out to beat the record round the
-world for the _New York_ ----, and if I only make it in Japan I’ll beat
-the previous best by exactly twelve days.”
-
-He then related to me how he had left New York and travelled
-_viâ_ Liverpool, London, Dover, Ostend, Berlin, Moscow, and the
-Trans-Siberian Railway to Dalny; and here he was, bound for Nagasaki,
-Japan, where he would take the train for Yokohama, and thence travel by
-the _Empress of India_ to Vancouver, by the Canadian Pacific Railway to
-Quebec, and from there back to New York.
-
-“I’m going to publish a book on the trip, and I’ve got about enough
-information to fill it already. Say, though, my wife’ll be glad to see
-me back again in New York. She’s a beautiful woman, my wife. She’s
-tall and dark, and has a straight-front figure--a woman can’t be
-fashionable without a straight-front figure--and when she walks she
-leans forward like a kangaroo and does the glide. Ever seen it? I tell
-you, sir, there’s nuthin’ like it; and it takes a New York girl to do
-it properly, and there ain’t many girls in New York as can lick my wife
-at walkin’. I’ll introduce you to her sometime if I ever see you in New
-York, an’ if you don’t say she’s about the slickest thing you ever saw
-in skirts, well, you ain’t much of a judge o’ weather.
-
-“Say, now that I come to look at you, I’ve seen you before, I guess,”
-he rattled on. “Wasn’t you the chap that come rushin’ on to the
-platform at Mukden just as our train was movin’ out of the station?”
-
-I acknowledged that I was. Owing to the impossibility of obtaining any
-reliable information in the town, several miles away, as to the time
-of departure of the trains, I had reached the station, to my great
-chagrin, just in time to see the _train de luxe_ move away from the
-platform. I had thus been compelled to take a slow and very dirty train
-three hours later, and hence the reason of my nearly missing the boat
-at Dalny.
-
-“Looks as if cuttin’ things fine was rather in your line, eh? Say,
-though, you couldn’t take risks like that if you was doin’ a record
-round the world. You nearly missed this boat. I was watchin’ you, and
-if you’d been on my job you’d have perspired like a pig as you was
-drivin’ up to the wharf, with that woolly-faced pirate yellin’ and
-thrashin’ them horses to soapsuds, and the steamer whistle blowin’ and
-the whole durned push hollerin’ and monkeyin’ with the ropes of the
-gangway. You’d have had your heart in your boots, young feller, if
-you’d been on my lay-out and seen how near you came to botchin’ up the
-whole job.
-
-“And talkin’ of botchin’ jobs, if this steamer doesn’t arrive in
-Nagasaki in time to catch the eight o’clock train on Thursday, I’m
-done. That train’ll just give me time to catch the _Empress_ at
-Yokohama. If I miss it there ain’t another boat until the _Gaelic_ for
-San Francisco, nine days later, and as that’s a slower route I’ll be
-fourteen days longer than if I catch the _Empress_. Gee whiz, though,
-it’ll break my wife’s heart if I don’t clip that twelve days off the
-record. She and I figured this whole thing out together months before I
-started.
-
-“Now, this boat’s due to arrive at Nagasaki at eleven o’clock, and
-if she does no better’n that there’s no power on earth can help me;
-the game’s lost. Guess I’ll have to try and square the captain to get
-her into harbour by seven o’clock. If I can’t do that my wife’ll be
-heartbroken; she’s set her heart on this. You ought to see her; she’s
-the finest girl in New York--tall and slender, with dark eyes and hair,
-and she’s got a straight-front figure. But, say, I guess I’ll have to
-try and square the captain; I ain’t a nervous man, but I’m gettin’
-nervous about this.”
-
-With that he took me on one side, where there was no possibility of any
-eavesdropping, and, drawing his watch from his pocket, said, “You see
-that watch? How much do you suppose it’s worth?”
-
-I looked at it closely. It appeared to be a handsome gold-cased,
-centre-seconds hunter, but, after the American fashion, the gold was
-not hallmarked. I confessed that I could form no idea of its value, but
-it appeared to me to be an expensive one.
-
-“It’s a most difficult thing for anyone but an expert to tell the value
-of a watch, and you aren’t the only one to think this is somethin’
-choice,” said my new acquaintance. “Now you’ve got a whole lot to
-learn, and I’m goin’ to put you up to a tip that’ll save you a pile of
-money. There’s not many experts on watches to be met with travellin’,
-and most people would think this worth fifty dollars at least. That’s
-where they’re wrong. I buy these watches by the dozen, and they only
-cost me one dollar and twenty cents each that way. They’re gold-washed,
-but they look like solid gold. I always have one on my chain; it’s no
-good havin’ it anywhere else. It must be on the chain you’re wearin’,
-and when the time comes for business you’ve got to tenderly draw it out
-of your pocket as if it was somethin’ you valued more than your life.
-
-“Now, when I started out from Moscow I bought a second-class ticket,
-and I got into the best unoccupied first-class compartment I saw on the
-train. After a while the conductor comes along to examine the tickets.
-I handed him mine. He couldn’t speak a word of English, but he gave me
-to understand by pretty good actin’ that I’d have to clear out into the
-other end of the train.
-
-“Not bein’ a bad hand at actin’ myself, I was right _in_ it. I gently
-pulled my watch from my pocket--it was one like this I now have on
-me--and showed him clearly that I intended to give it to him when we
-reached Irkutsk if he let me stay where I was. I repeated the word
-Irkutsk several times, each time touchin’ his pocket.
-
-“Well, sirree, you ought to have been there to see his face when he
-caught sight of that watch! His eyes bulged out of his head so you
-could hang your hat on ’em, and to show what he felt like in his heart
-he took hold of my hand and shook it.
-
-“After that he was like a mother to me all the way. Other compartments
-were filled up, but I had mine to myself always. Every time I passed
-him I gave him a wink and tapped my watch-pocket, and he switched on
-the nicest smile he kept in stock.
-
-“Gee whiz, though, comin’ across Siberia the inside of that train was
-hotter’n the gates of Hades, and every day that feller would come to my
-room two or three times to see if he couldn’t do something to make me
-more comfortable.
-
-“At Irkutsk I handed over the watch, and either his joy at receivin’ it
-or his sorrow at partin’ with me was so great that he tried to kiss me.
-
-“Irkutsk is where they change trains, and I met an Englishman on the
-platform who lived in Port Arthur; he was goin’ back there by way of
-Dalny. He had been on a holiday to England, and was comin’ back on
-third-class trains, as he had spent about all his money, and had only
-just enough to skin through third-class. When I found he knew the
-country and could talk Russian, I invited him to come along with me; I
-told him I’d fix things up all right.
-
-“Well, by and by the conductor comes along, same as the other had done.
-There we were, both in a first-class compartment, one with a second
-and the other with a third-class ticket. I didn’t have need to do any
-dumb show this time, for my friend, who spoke the lingo, did all the
-gassin’, and told him there was a nice present waitin’ for him when
-Dalny was reached if we could stay where we were, and when I tenderly
-took another watch out of my pocket and looked at it as though it was
-the only thing I’d ever loved on earth, he was as much overcome with
-joy as number one had been.
-
-“Well, that watch fixed it just as I knew it would. We both stayed
-where we were, and when, at Dalny, I handed it over to the conductor,
-I calculated those two watches, worth two dollars and forty cents, had
-saved me about one hundred and twenty-five dollars.
-
-“That Englishman was as chock-full of knowledge about Manchuria as an
-egg is full of meat, and I got enough information out of him to write
-up the whole trip across Russia and Siberia.
-
-“Now you see the point I’m gettin’ at. There’s more of them watches in
-my bag, besides this one on my chain, and I’d like to see the captain
-of this ship richer by one of ’em, provided he does somethin’ to earn
-such a valuable present as he’ll consider it, until he gets to pryin’
-into the works and askin’ experts’ opinions about it; but by that time
-I’ll be a long way off and it ’ain’t likely as I’ll ever see him again.
-There’s one disadvantage about this game that’s worth remarkin’--you
-can’t play it on the same man twice.
-
-“As soon as I came aboard this ship and found out from the steward
-the time she gets to Nagasaki, I saw another watch would have to go,
-and that the captain o’ the ship would be the fortunate possessor.
-There’s a difficulty in the way, as he can’t speak English; and I can’t
-approach him through the steward, as that would give the captain away,
-but I’ve discovered there’s a Russian lady in the saloon, whom the
-captain’s already gettin’ on with like a house on fire.
-
-“She speaks English with the prettiest accent you ever heard, and I was
-talkin’ to her for half an hour in the harbour before you showed up.
-I’ve already told her what I’m doin’, and got her quite worked up about
-it, an’ I’ve decided she’s the one to work the captain for me. There
-she is now, comin’ out on deck. Excuse me; there’s no time to be lost;
-I’ll get hold of her before the captain sees her.”
-
-As they walked up and down the deck talking animatedly together, I
-could see my new acquaintance was making a deeper impression every
-minute. Once a few sentences reached me, and I chuckled inwardly.
-
-“She’ll be broken-hearted if I fail to make it.... I’ll introduce
-you to her if you come to New York. She’ll like you and you’ll like
-her. She’s tall and dark, with big black eyes, and she’s got a
-straight-front figure and a----” I had to make a guess at the rest, for
-they had turned the corner by the wheel-house before the sentence was
-finished.
-
-I never doubted what the result of his interview would be. Already I
-felt that the arrival of the _Mongolia_ at Nagasaki by seven o’clock
-on Thursday morning was the only thing at present to live for. I was
-completely dominated with enthusiasm for the success of this man’s
-undertaking, and felt certain he would as surely win the Russian lady’s
-sympathy and co-operation in his project as he had already secured mine.
-
-After half an hour he came back to me.
-
-“That little woman’s all right. She’s made o’ good enough clay to be
-Amur’can, an’ says she’ll do everythin’ she can to help me. She’s gone
-to call the captain now.”
-
-Soon she appeared with the captain, talking in the most animated manner
-to him and punctuating every sentence with most expressive gestures.
-
-Then they came together towards us and she said, “I haf ze captain told
-what you say off your great journey, and he tell me it iss impossible
-we come to Nagasaki so early unless he burn extra fifty tons of coal.
-Ze captain say if you pay ze coal he can do it, but if you not pay ze
-coal it iss impossible, but ze captain he like verry much to help you.”
-
-To this my travelling companion made reply, “Madam, will you please
-tell the captain that the cost of the extra fifty tons of coal is but a
-trifle, and I’ll do a good deal more than pay for that. I am so anxious
-to catch that train that if the captain will bring the ship into the
-harbour by seven o’clock I’ll make him a present of my watch.”
-
-The lady interpreted this. The captain shrugged his shoulders, then
-he looked up at the funnel, from which great rolling convolutions of
-thick black smoke were belching, and he let his eye run along the line
-of reek floating lazily in the cobalt astern for many miles--almost,
-it seemed, to where the yellow, sun-baked Manchurian hills were
-disappearing below the horizon--his brows knitted in thought.
-
-Before he had finished his cogitations the would-be breaker of records
-put his hand into the left pocket of his waistcoat and drew out his
-watch. He carefully removed the chamois skin bag, soiled sufficiently
-to show it had long protected the treasure it covered, and holding the
-watch, which looked a perfect beauty as it caught the sun, in the palm
-of his hand, he addressed himself straight to the captain.
-
-“Captain, I _must_ catch that train, and if you’ll help me to do it,
-sir, my watch shall be yours before I leave the ship. Ain’t it a
-beauty?” and he held it out for admiration.
-
-All this he said in a manner that carried conviction with it. The lady
-interpreted again, but even that seemed unnecessary. The captain had
-capitulated, and from that moment the result lay in little doubt. The
-success or failure of this man’s trip had hung in the balance, and the
-issue was decided by a five-shilling watch glittering in the sun on the
-deck of a Russian steamer in the Yellow Sea.
-
-Being in the secret, I could feel only admiration at the
-record-breaker’s sang-froid and the clever and dramatic manner in which
-he played his part.
-
-The captain smiled and made a gesture of deprecation, but his eyes told
-us that he meant that watch should be his, and presently he went below
-to give directions to the chief engineer. From that moment the black
-smoke rolled out of the funnel thicker than before, hanging over the
-steamer’s wake clear to the horizon.
-
-The record-breaker contemplated it and the unrippled seas with joy.
-
-We went up into the fo’c’s’le, and as we leaned over the bow and saw
-the speed at which the sharp prow was cleaving the glassy water,
-sending thin feathers of spray high up along the steamer’s trim and
-tapering sides, his enthusiasm knew no bounds, and his praises of
-“God’s country” and his wife became almost dithyrambic.
-
-All next day, as we steamed past the archipelago of rocks and barren
-islands that fringes the coast of Korea, the sea remained calm as a
-pond, and when at half-past six o’clock on Thursday morning we dropped
-anchor off the quarantine station at Nagasaki all doubt seemed to
-be at an end. There was some delay, however, as, though the doctors
-quickly came on board, made their examinations, and gave us a clean
-bill of health, it takes time to get under way again, enter the
-harbour, and take up a berth amongst the shipping this bustling port
-always contains. We anchored at seven-twenty. The record-breaker knew
-nothing about the place, and it is a long way to the station. I knew
-it well, however, and, as I felt as keen on his catching that train as
-he did himself, I chartered a _sampan_ and had all our luggage lowered
-into it, whilst he went up on to the bridge to express his thanks and
-present the watch to the captain. I saw him take it from his pocket
-and make a little speech as he handed it over, and I saw the captain
-bow his thanks. Then he shook hands, and in another moment he was
-beside me and we were being rapidly pulled to the landing-place, or
-_hatoba_.
-
-[Illustration: “’AIN’T IT A BEAUTY?’ AND HE HELD IT OUT FOR
-ADMIRATION.”]
-
-There was not a moment to lose. It was past seven-thirty, and a good
-twenty minutes to the station. Hastily bidding the _sampan_ to wait
-with my luggage, I engaged rickshaws and we were off at full speed. We
-reached the station at seven-fifty-five. Having Japanese money on me I
-paid the rickshaws, whilst he bought his ticket with money he had got
-exchanged by the steamer’s purser.
-
-He hastily shook hands, thanked me, and got into the train just one
-moment before it left.
-
-The watch had _really_ done it, but by actually less than a minute, and
-if I had not been there to help him he would have failed after all. He
-promised to write me from Yokohama, but this he never did. The last I
-saw of him he was waving his hat out of the window to me till the train
-was out of sight.
-
-The last I heard of him was a few weeks later, when I read in an
-American Press telegram that he had won his spurs and had beaten the
-previous best round the world by exactly twelve days.
-
-
-
-
-[Illustration: A White Woman in Cannibal-Land.]
-
-BY ANNIE KER.
-
- Some incidents of a lady’s life in the wilds of New
- Guinea. Miss Ker went out to Papua--as the country is now
- called--attached to a mission, and describes the many strange,
- amusing, and exciting experiences she encountered during her
- seven years’ sojourn among the natives, who, not so very long
- ago, were always fighting and much addicted to cannibalism--a
- practice which still prevails among the wild tribes of the
- unexplored interior.
-
-
-III.
-
-Towards the end of my stay in Papua my special work was translation,
-chiefly of the Scriptures, and there was a big pile of manuscript
-awaiting revision. This was generally done by one of the mission clergy
-and myself, assisted by intelligent natives who possessed a quick ear
-for mistakes. The little boy seen in the first photograph was known
-as “the Pundit,” because, although only fourteen years old, he gave
-us great assistance in the difficult work of translation. He had a
-wonderful memory, and was very discriminating in his choice of words.
-He would sometimes volunteer opinions as to the style of the sacred
-writers, and considered the Prophet Jeremiah, on the whole, “easier”
-than Isaiah--in which I agree with him, so far as concerns rendering
-the books into a native dialect. Perhaps it was for this reason that
-our youthful “Pundit,” when he was baptised and formally discarded his
-heathen name of Bonagadona, chose that of “Jeremiah,” by which imposing
-cognomen he is now known.
-
-Before long the revision work came to a standstill, however, for my
-fellow-reviser had gone far north to a pioneer station called Ambasi.
-It was finally decided that, accompanied by our mission nurse, I should
-take the MSS. to Ambasi and finish the revision there. So we set out on
-our long journey up the coast in the little fourteen-foot schooner. I
-am not a good sailor, and I found the journey very uncomfortable; I was
-only able to admire Nature when we anchored.
-
-[Illustration: “THE PUNDIT”--THIS LITTLE LAD, THOUGH ONLY FOURTEEN
-YEARS OLD, RENDERED THE AUTHORESS GREAT ASSISTANCE IN THE DIFFICULT
-WORK OF TRANSLATING THE SCRIPTURES.
-
-_From a Photograph._]
-
-We spent a very interesting time in Collingwood Bay, where only two
-white women had ever been seen, and that within the year. The women
-here wore strips of tappa cloth from waist to knee, instead of the
-grass skirts of the more eastern tribes, and the houses were of a finer
-and larger type.
-
-The villagers, after they had got over their surprise at seeing us,
-gave us almost too hearty a welcome. We were implored to pull down our
-hair, and great was the astonishment expressed at the sight when we did
-so. They also failed entirely to understand our hairpins, hats, and,
-above all, our long noses and small waists! The Papuans’ methods of
-hairdressing, however, would certainly cause almost equal astonishment
-in civilization. Look, for instance, at the following photograph, which
-depicts the coiffure of a man belonging to the dreaded Doriri tribe,
-a people living inland from Uiaku, whose warlike instincts have not
-yet been subdued. It will be noticed that the hair is allowed to grow
-long, divided into plaits, and elaborately braided until it looks like
-a collection of rope-ends.
-
-[Illustration: A NATIVE OF THE DREADED DORIRI TRIBE--THE HAIR IS
-DIVIDED INTO PLAITS AND BRAIDED, UNTIL IT LOOKS LIKE A COLLECTION OF
-ROPE-ENDS.
-
-_From a Photograph._]
-
-At Wanigera, a few miles away, where a mission station had been in
-existence longer than at Uiaku, we met with a quieter reception,
-though one old woman, after a long look at me, asked a child if I were
-_really_ a woman. I wondered what strange creature she imagined I was,
-for surely, in a white muslin frock, she could hardly have taken me for
-a man!
-
-During our stay at Wanigera a great hunt took place, and some of the
-warriors called on us before setting out. Their ornaments were very
-striking, and the colours almost dazzling. Altogether they looked a
-very fine set of men, and would, no doubt, prove enemies much to be
-dreaded in the day of battle. On this occasion, however, they only
-waged war with the brute creation, and they told us at the close of the
-day that the bag was a very good one.
-
-The interior of the great church on Sunday was a fine sight, being
-filled with from two to three hundred natives, all decked out in
-feathers, shell ornaments, gay tappa cloth, and vivid flowers. Not
-less striking was the almost military precision with which each row
-of worshippers left the building in turn at the close of the service.
-If these natives went in for such amenities of civilization as church
-parades, the spectacle would be a striking one indeed.
-
-In a neighbouring village to Wanigera there is a remarkable tree house,
-prepared by the tribesmen as a place of refuge from marauding enemies.
-From the heights of this arboreal retreat they were able to hurl down
-stones upon the attacking party.
-
-[Illustration: PAPUAN WOMEN DECORATED FOR A DEATH-DANCE.
-
-[_From a Photograph._]]
-
-A fine specimen of Papuan womanhood may be seen in the middle figure
-of the next photograph reproduced. These women are natives of Nonof,
-a village not far from Wanigera. They were profusely ornamented in
-order that they might take part in a dance held after the death of a
-chief. It is almost an unheard-of occurrence for women to don such
-decorations, which are regarded as the exclusive property of the men,
-and it looks as though the ladies were beginning to agitate for equal
-privileges in the way of finery with their lords and masters. A native,
-on being shown my collection of curios, which included some ornaments,
-remarked that I was _me oroto_, or “like a man,” because of my many
-possessions.
-
-[Illustration: PREPARING LIME FOR USE IN BETEL-CHEWING.
-
-[_From a Photograph._]]
-
-The natives of Papua are very much addicted to betel-chewing. Areca
-palms are plentiful up the coast, but pepper-leaf and lime are required
-as well. The lime--which in some districts is prepared from coal--is
-obtained in Collingwood Bay by burning shells. The above photograph
-well illustrates the primitive process in use for slaking the lime
-after the burning of the shells. The lime is then stored, and ladled
-out from a calabash when required.
-
-[Illustration: A HUT IN THE FOREST--OBSERVE THE REMARKABLE ROOF.
-
-[_From a Photograph._]]
-
-Our stay at Wanigera having come to an end, we embarked once more on
-the little schooner and set off again. We anchored each night, for the
-native captain was not very certain of his bearings, and reefs were
-plentiful. On the third day after leaving Wanigera, however, he was
-either influenced by the crew or had a sudden impulse of recklessness,
-for after the sun had set he tried, in the uncertain light, to bring
-the boat into harbour on a particularly reef-bound part of the coast.
-There was a strong wind blowing, and the waves were slapping angrily
-against the sides of the vessel, when suddenly, without a moment’s
-warning, there was a grating shock, and we realized that we had struck
-a reef. It was almost dark by now, and the lights of the settlement
-could be seen two or three miles away.
-
-The captain let go the anchor at once, but the boat began to roll so
-violently that we felt doubtful as to whether the cable would stand
-the strain. Meanwhile the boys scrambled into the dinghy and rowed
-around to investigate our position. Strange though it may seem, no
-harm appeared to have been done to the boat, but we were so surrounded
-by reefs that we did not dare to move from where we were anchored. So
-there we pitched and rolled about all night, though the strength of
-the wind abated later on. What with one thing and another, I felt like
-a very frightened tennis-ball, and I was extremely thankful when, at
-sunrise, we were able to make for the shore, where we spent the day and
-night at the house of a friendly magistrate.
-
-[Illustration: A FISHERMAN’S HOUSE AND CANOE.
-
-[_From a Photograph._]]
-
-We were now only thirty or forty miles from our destination, and the
-next afternoon arrived at Ambasi. No white women had ever been there
-before, and for many days we were visited by parties of natives, all
-eager to see the strange white ladies. Women carrying their babies
-astride on their shoulders, old men leading little boys, and married
-couples, with or without their families, would pay us long visits,
-wanting to know what a sewing-machine was, to look at our bedrooms,
-and, above all, to taste our food. The nurse had her hands full soon
-after she arrived, for the people had great faith in her remedies, and
-patients presented themselves in shoals for treatment. Her pet patients
-appeared to be old men, who became frightfully jealous of one another
-if she appeared to devote more attention to one than another. They
-would glare fiercely at the patient who was being rubbed or otherwise
-treated, and were only partly mollified when their own turn came.
-
-During our stay at Ambasi we dispensed with such luxuries as mirrors
-and sheets, and rolled ourselves in blankets, to sleep contentedly
-in hammocks slung on the veranda. We could not, however, do without
-mosquito nets, for without them rest would have been quite impossible.
-At night we were surrounded by the pale sparks of fireflies, and far
-below, on the beach, the natives’ flaring torches would flicker for
-hours as they fished, standing patiently in the sea. In the early
-morning the sweet notes of a bird would wake us from some lofty tree at
-the edge of the thick forest close by, behind which rose in majesty the
-great Owen Stanley range, standing out distinctly in the clear morning
-air. The highest peak, Mount Albert Edward, over thirteen thousand
-feet high, had not long before been ascended for the first time by a
-magistrate and one of the mission staff.
-
-We could not always keep dry under our roof, which allowed the rain to
-penetrate it in many places. One memorable night I piled nearly all my
-belongings in a heap covered by a mat, and at last sought shelter from
-the prevailing showers under the table, which was, I am glad to say,
-rainproof. But it would not have done to be without rain, for it was
-our only water supply, the spring on the beach being too brackish to
-drink.
-
-The Ope, a small river, was only three miles distant, within easy
-reach of the station by boat or beach. I visited it one Sunday morning,
-taking with me a village boy who knew a little broken English. It was
-a glorious walk on the hard yellow sand, for the tide was out, but the
-return journey was most fatiguing, for the waves had covered the firm
-portion, and at each step I sank ankle-deep in the yielding sand.
-
-When we reached the Ope no canoes were to be seen, except on the
-farther bank. We called and beckoned, and after a time a small boy
-brought one over to us, on which we embarked. There were no paddles,
-a very slender stick being our only means of propelling it, and we
-naturally made poor progress. Our little ferry-man, however, was not
-disconcerted. Kneeling down and putting his right leg overboard he
-obligingly paddled with that, and most successfully.
-
-It was at the place to which I was going that the launch had once been
-wrecked, and where, some years before, the Bishop of New Guinea and
-one of his laymen had spent the night in peril of their lives, after
-escaping from drowning and from a shark. It was with some anxiety,
-therefore, that I looked forward to our arrival.
-
-I am bound to say, however, that no one could now accuse the villagers
-of evil designs on us, for I was presented with a young coconut to
-drink, and saw nothing amiss in the behaviour of the natives, unless a
-request to take down my hair can be regarded as such.
-
-A chief had died the week before, and the dead man seemed to have been
-related to the majority of the people, for many were daubed with light
-yellow clay, which is their form of mourning. The widow herself was
-seated on her husband’s grave, which was situated _inside_ the house.
-There, according to tribal etiquette, she must remain until she had
-finished making her mourning jacket of netted string trimmed with
-“Job’s tears.” I was glad the poor thing had something to occupy her
-mind, for the horror of the situation was increased by the presence of
-two old crones who, one on each side of her, wailed incessantly.
-
-Burial in the house in more settled parts of Papua has been forbidden
-by the Government, and where the missions are located graveyards have
-been set aside and fenced in.
-
-When my work at Ambasi was over the little schooner arrived once more
-to take us back. It was now the calm season, and our progress was
-decidedly slow. The little cabin below, where the nurse and I slept,
-was stuffy in the extreme, and it was delightful to get on deck in the
-early morning, though I was seldom able to do more than lie there with
-a bit of sail or a blanket stretched above to keep off the rays of the
-sun. Then it would become unbearably hot, and I would retreat to the
-airless cabin once more until the cool of the evening approached. All
-day long the sails flapped aimlessly and the blocks thudded loudly on
-the deck, for the breeze was usually too light to help us. Towards
-evening a wind sprang up, but too late to enable us to make for an
-anchorage among the reefs in the treacherous half-light. Matters
-improved as we got farther down the coast, however, and though on the
-last day we saw a waterspout in the distance we met with no mishaps,
-and finally reached our journey’s end in safety.
-
-Though there are marked differences in the Papuans themselves, as well
-as in their dwellings and languages, the time will come, no doubt,
-when, under the influence of the white man, they will abandon their
-primitive Stone Age ways for twentieth-century ones. Then, probably,
-much of their charm will vanish. They may reap many benefits, but, as
-with so many other savage races, it is more than likely that the change
-will not be altogether to their advantage. At any rate, I am glad that
-I have lived with them and known them at home, while they are still
-unspoiled children of Nature.
-
-[Illustration]
-
-
-
-
-[Illustration: My Experiences in Algeria.]
-
-BY THE BARONESS DE BOERIO.
-
- The Baroness’s husband, an officer in the French army, was
- ordered to Algeria, and took his wife and children with him.
- There, located at a tiny post far from civilization, in the
- midst of fierce and unruly tribes, the authoress met with some
- very strange adventures, which she here sets forth in a chatty
- and amusing fashion.
-
-
-II.
-
-Some time after my arrival at Teniet-el-Haad my husband and I, together
-with our first lieutenant and his wife, were invited to a “diffa” given
-in our honour by a Caid named Si Benrajah.
-
-[Illustration: THE FRINGE OF THE DESERT.
-
-_From a Photograph._]
-
-He most politely sent his wagonette to fetch us and was at the door
-of his house to receive us. He was a tall, good-looking man, and
-his costume was exquisite. His _serronal_, or wide trousers, were
-of pale-grey satin cloth, the large pockets on each side richly
-embroidered in silk braid of the same shade. Silver lace covered his
-short bolero, which opened over a shirt which was a mass of green and
-red silk, gold and silver embroidery. Over that again he wore a lovely
-white silk “haik,” which, covering his head-dress and kept in place
-by the “camel cords,” fell round his shoulders, and was then caught
-up in front from the knee to the gold waistbelt by a cerise coloured
-silk handkerchief. Over his shoulders hung his burnous, the outer one
-of fine grey cloth to match the costume, handsomely embroidered at the
-corners and round the hood, the under one of fine white flannel.
-
-He led us majestically into his “drawing-room”--which, alas! bore
-unmistakable traces of the Caid’s various journeys to Paris. There was
-nothing Arab but the lovely carpets and the smell.
-
-A rickety Louis XV. _canapé_, with chairs to match, stood stiffly
-against the walls; their coverings of chintz badly wanted washing.
-An oval table, a walnutwood wardrobe, a washing-stand without the
-accessories, and two big mirrors, whose frames had once been gilded,
-completed the furniture. We here partook of refreshments in the
-unromantic shape of absinthe and lemonade, accompanied by Huntley
-and Palmer’s biscuits and wafers. I was much disappointed, for I had
-hoped to see something more Arab and to eat and drink according to
-the customs of the land. I supposed this was “progress” in Benrajah’s
-idea; at any rate, he looked most satisfied with himself and his
-surroundings. He introduced another Caid to us--the Caid of Biskra, I
-think, who was passing through--a fine, handsome man, whose photograph
-is here reproduced.
-
-[Illustration: THE CAID OF BISKRA.
-
-[_From a Photograph._]]
-
-We breakfasted in a large tent, as Benrajah said it was still too warm
-in the house. Remembering the close, “camelly” sort of smell, I quite
-agreed with him.
-
-As we entered the tent Mme. G----, the lieutenant’s wife, whispered to
-me, “Now, mind you don’t refuse a single dish the Caid offers you. If
-you do you will mortally offend him, especially as it is the first time
-you break bread under his roof, and the ‘diffa’ is in your honour.”
-
-“All right,” I answered, cheerily.
-
-“Bon! bon! bon!” she cried. “Don’t forget, you _must_ eat everything he
-offers you.” She skipped off roaring with laughter, which, at the time,
-I thought very silly of her.
-
-I was again very disappointed by the civilized, European way in which
-we ate. Instead of squatting cross-legged on the ground, eating
-with brotherly love out of the same dish with a wooden spoon or our
-fingers, we sat round a well-laid table, with knives and forks, and
-dinner-napkins embroidered with the Caid’s initials. Everyone and
-everything is getting so horribly civilized nowadays, I reflected,
-sadly.
-
-The repast began with a red-hot liquid in which vermicelli floated.
-It burnt my unaccustomed mouth and I did not fall in love with it,
-but as I had never tasted anything like it before I did not even want
-to refuse when the Caid offered me a second helping. After the soup
-came some boiled chicken, on which the red liquid had been poured. He
-helped me largely--twice. The third course was mutton, with prunes; the
-fourth mutton, with red liquid; the fifth a French _ragoût_, with an
-Arab taste; the sixth was chicken without the red liquid; the seventh
-an Irish stew gone wrong; the eighth--well, perhaps my readers are
-beginning to feel as tired as I did after having partaken twice of all
-these dishes. Indeed, I was beginning to feel very serious, and longed
-ardently for the end of this Gargantuan repast.
-
-After about the twelfth course an Arab in waiting cleared a space on
-the table before the Caid. My hopes were raised to the heights, but,
-alas! only to fall to the lowest depths in a very short space of time.
-Suddenly something knocked my hat on one side, and everyone yelled
-at me. Dazed, I looked round and rubbed my nose into a sheep’s leg.
-Starting back, I met the convulsed and, as I imagined, reproachful
-eye of an enormous sheep lying in a contorted attitude on a big brass
-platter. Si Benrajah turned to me with a gracious smile. “I am much
-honoured, madam,” he said, in perfect French, “in being the first to
-offer you a ‘meshui’ on your arrival in Algeria.”
-
-[Illustration: A TYPICAL ARAB HUT.
-
-[_From a Photograph._]]
-
-A “meshui,” I learnt, is a royal dish, and is only offered to those
-the Arabs delight (or are compelled) to honour. It is simply a whole
-sheep roasted over wood embers, and served uncut on a brass or silver
-platter. It should not be cut with a knife, but torn off with the
-fingers and eaten. If you wish to be particularly polite to a friend
-who is present, you wrench off a piece of flesh and present it with
-your greasy fingers, and he receives it much flattered, returning
-the compliment with _his_ greasy fingers. This style of eating was
-certainly not over-civilized, so I ought to have been better pleased
-than I was. As a matter of fact I felt very bad, and hoped against hope
-that the Caid would forget me.
-
-“You are not yet accustomed to our habits,” he said, kindly. “Take a
-knife and fork and cut off the meat.”
-
-So I cut off a few small bits in a dilatory way, secretly wondering if
-I could not surreptitiously throw them to some lean, hungry dogs who
-were peering into the tent door.
-
-“What silly little bits!” cried Benrajah, laughingly. Then, after well
-licking his brown, henna-stained fingers, he tore off a huge piece and
-offered it to me! A cold perspiration broke out on my forehead, and I
-almost longed for death.
-
-“Eat! eat!” he cried, gaily; and, choking down my despair, I ate.
-
-How could I dare to do otherwise after Mme. G----’s warning? Are not
-the laws of hospitality sacred and to be observed throughout the world?
-But it was terrible tribute to pay to foreign customs, and I felt a
-lesser desire for originality.
-
-“It is good?” inquired the Caid.
-
-“Delicious! delicious!” I answered, with a ghastly green smile.
-
-“Ah! Here is a _comme il faut Roumia_!” he cried, enchanted--and
-promptly tore me off a beautiful brown piece of meat, weighing, I
-should think, about three pounds! My cup of anguish was full, and I
-prayed--yes, actually prayed--to be delivered from that three pounds of
-meat.
-
-And I was.
-
-Crash! The table-cloth was half dragged off, and, amid a rain of knives
-and forks, plates and glasses, my little girl rolled on to the ground.
-I did not lose my presence of mind, but, seizing my pounds of meat,
-all unseen in the commotion I threw them to the lean dogs, who made
-very short work of them. Then my motherly feelings came to the fore,
-and I went to the rescue of my child. It was soon apparent what had
-happened--the poor mite had been given too much wine by the thoughtless
-Mme. G----, and was very seedy for some days afterwards.
-
-It would be reasonable to suppose that the “meshui” was the last of the
-courses, but it disappeared only to give place to the Arab national
-dish, the “couscous.” At sight of the snowy pile of rolled semolina,
-surmounted by more mutton, a feeling of revolt took possession of me.
-I felt I could dare Lucifer himself; and so I refused the couscous,
-although in a cowardly way, by pretending that fresh air was necessary
-for my poor little Renée. Perhaps it was, but if it had not been I
-should have said the same.
-
-I do not think I ever quite forgave Mme. G---- her two practical jokes,
-for practical jokes they were. When I described my sufferings at having
-to eat all the Caid gave me, she laughed herself ill and said, “What
-a ‘blue’ you are!” Which is the French military way of calling you a
-greenhorn.
-
-[Illustration: “I LOOKED ROUND JUST IN TIME TO SEE AN ARAB LOWERING HIS
-GUN.”]
-
-One of my husband’s great amusements in this out-of-the-way garrison
-was to construct a hiding-place, in front of which he fixed the
-carcass of some dead animal, and there, gun in hand, to await the wild
-beasts such as hyenas, jackals, lynxes, and golden foxes, who scented
-from afar the goodly supper awaiting them. On these occasions they
-generally found too much pepper, and often suffered from a mortal
-indigestion. I sometimes accompanied my husband on such expeditions,
-and greatly enjoyed crouching silently in some hidden corner, listening
-to the wailing of an approaching hyena, or the querulous squabbling
-and howling of the shrieking jackals. And then, when the dry sticks
-cracked and the dead leaves rustled quite close to me under their
-stealthy pads, my heart would leap into my mouth for fear they should
-mistake _me_ for their supper. One night whilst thus listening to some
-approaching creature my husband, crouching about twenty yards from me,
-suddenly rose up and called out in Arabic, “Who goes there?” I looked
-round just in time to see an Arab huntsman lowering his gun, which was
-pointed full at _me_. He thought I was a hyena!
-
-During the winter, when the snow lay thick on the ground, I preferred
-staying at home to keep up a huge fire and fabricate hot drinks in
-readiness for the frozen huntsman’s return; it seemed to me more a
-wife’s duty!
-
-Another short incident of my life in Teniet-el-Haad may not be
-uninteresting. My husband had gone to the manœuvres with his Spahis,
-and our _bordj_ was only guarded by about thirty “Tirailleurs
-Algerians.” Then, one day, a terrific storm burst over the land. The
-air was so thick with fine sand that I could not distinguish the trees
-before my windows, and the sun hung in the sky like a lurid orange
-ball, seemingly about to drop. The heat was stifling; one gasped for
-breath, and, although every door and window was hermetically closed,
-the rooms were full of sand.
-
-Presently a terrible clamour arose from the village--shouts, cries,
-screams, gun-shots. Then from the _bordj_ courtyard I heard sharp
-orders given, the clanking of weapons, and finally the sound of a body
-of infantry running. The wind howled and shrieked, the sand-storm grew
-denser and denser, and still the clamour continued in the village.
-I sat in the drawing-room with my little ones around me, wondering
-if it were a serious revolt, and what would happen to us if it were.
-For the district of Teniet-el-Haad was a large one, containing thirty
-thousand Arabs, and we were far from any important garrison, while our
-protectors, all Arab, consisted of thirty “tirailleurs,” and ten Spahis
-belonging to the “Commune Mixte.” Pensively I placed my revolver close
-to my hand, and waited anxiously.
-
-After a few hours the sirocco cleared somewhat, the noise ceased, and
-the tirailleurs returned. The whole affair, they told me, had been got
-up by the mountain Arabs against the Jews, who had been “doing” them.
-So the Arabs had taken the law into their own hands and administered
-justice by repaying themselves a hundred-fold and making off with their
-booty up the mountains, well hidden by the sand-storm. In the scuffle
-a boy and two men were killed, all Jews--so it did not matter, so the
-folks said.
-
-My husband was second captain at Teniet-el-Haad, having given up his
-rank as first captain in the Hussars in order to facilitate his return
-to a regiment. He was therefore the oldest in grade in the 1st Spahis,
-and the earliest vacancy as first captain fell to him. We had been at
-Teniet about ten months when he received orders to take command of the
-Laghouat squadron. It was the beginning of February; snow lay thick and
-deep on the ground up in this high altitude, and the great question
-arose how we were to get to Laghouat. Should we take the short cut by
-carriage across the mountains to Boghar, where the regimental brake
-would meet us and take us on, or go down to Affreville by the rickety
-diligence, train to Medeah, and continue by carriage?
-
-Going by train was a difficulty and an extra expense on account of our
-dogs. We had four--three fox-terriers and a shooting dog. I do not
-know what he called himself, but he had a double-barrelled nose and an
-over-frank and exuberant nature. He and Charleston, the old fox, could
-not bear each other. It was quite impossible to put them together in
-the dog-box, and to pack them separately would have cost as much as
-four times as many children. So, in consideration of their feelings
-and our purse, we decided--oh, irony!--to take the short cut if the
-snow and slush would allow of a carriage travelling along the narrow
-mountain tracks.
-
-We consulted the different French and native authorities, and finally
-decided, if the snow and slush would allow, to take the short cut over
-the mountains. We started off one fine morning at five, in a small
-brake lent by a Caid, who also promised to send us four strong mules
-to an inn some twenty miles off. The first twenty miles were soon
-done, and at half-past seven we were enjoying some good hot coffee,
-whilst our Spahi was unharnessing his team and making inquiries as to
-the whereabouts of the new relay and coachman. Ten minutes after he
-appeared, with a very concerned face. “Mon capitaine, Sidi Belgacun has
-sent two mules no bigger than donkeys, and the boy who drives them is a
-mere baby!”
-
-This sounded cheerful, and with one accord we went out to inspect.
-The Spahi’s account was unfortunately but slightly exaggerated, and
-we stood staring at our tiny steeds with dismay. We had still fifty
-kilometres before us, and the roads for at least twenty-five were
-nothing but cross-country paths. Should we turn back, or try to find
-other horses and go on? I voted emphatically for going on. Aided by the
-Spahi, my husband finally unearthed a man and two horses, and at eight
-o’clock we set off once more.
-
-Everything again went well for ten kilometres; then our misfortunes
-really began. When going up a hill the ground grew soft and the wheels
-of the brake sank in.
-
-“The snow is melting farther on,” remarked the coachman, laconically;
-“the underground springs are overflowing.”
-
-On we went laboriously, our Jehu yelling at the struggling horses,
-whilst the carriage wobbled to and fro in a most alarming fashion.
-“Don’t you think it would do us good to walk a bit?” I suggested. “It
-would make things easier for the horses.”
-
-“It would be safer,” said my husband, who was looking anxious.
-
-So out we got--and two minutes later the whole concern toppled over,
-our boxes, portmanteaux, and packets flying all over the place. The
-horses were plunging and kicking; the coachman, an Italian, and the
-Arab boy were yelling and swearing in their respective languages,
-whilst my husband _exclaimed_ in French (he doesn’t swear, but I am
-sure he would have liked to on this occasion). The scene was so
-unutterably comic that I could not help myself; I laughed until the
-tears rolled down my cheeks. I draw a curtain over the face my better
-half turned on me--scowling was not in it--and although I assured him I
-was really quite as upset as the carriage he has not recovered from my
-frivolity to this day.
-
-The men picked up the carriage and the baggage and put all in order
-and we thought we should get on again, but, alas! the wheels refused
-to move an inch; the more we tried the deeper they sank. After two
-hours of vain endeavour, Peppino, the coachman, suggested sending Ali
-to have a look round the country to see if he could find a village and
-get men with spades to come and dig us out. The boy set off, returning
-later with five stalwart men, who comparatively soon dug us out and
-accompanied us for a few kilometres on our way, pushing and yelling
-when necessary. Then they left us, saying the road was good right up to
-Boghar. It was now past two o’clock, and our lunch loomed very dimly in
-the far distance, having been ordered for twelve o’clock at Boghar.
-
-About three o’clock we saw snow on the side of the road, which again
-grew slushy and soft. My husband and Peppino were obliged to run
-behind, pushing at the wheels at the difficult places, whilst the Arab
-boy cheered on his mules and Peppino’s horses.
-
-The snow got deeper and deeper. Presently we passed a carriage
-abandoned on the side of the road, farther on a dead horse, and again a
-form, which looked terribly human, covered by a white pall.
-
-After a while we came to a wider part. On the right was a sloping
-mountain-side half covered with snow, half with golden narcissus,
-and showing a dry watercourse, dotted about with huge stones. On the
-left was a smooth field of snow, across which wheel marks could be
-distinguished. “We must cross here,” said Peppino, “as someone has
-before us; the snow is doubtless hard, and by whipping up the horses I
-will get you over. The road is impossible.”
-
-My husband was not of the same opinion. He considered the watercourse
-a better road than a snow-field, and the presence of stones made him
-surmise that the bottom was hard.
-
-The matter was hotly discussed, but finally my husband gave in, seeing
-that Peppino knew the road and he did not.
-
-Away we galloped--bump, bump, bump. Then, without warning, there came
-a tremendous crack, and, lo and behold! there we were, sitting in our
-carriage, whilst the horses and Peppino continued with the wheels! It
-was, of course, a terrible dilemma, but again I had to laugh; it was
-really too funny.
-
-My husband and Peppino carried me and the children and perched each of
-us on a stone, where I stood on one leg and cawed like a crow. “One
-should always take misfortunes gaily,” I said. That was the last straw;
-my better half had to laugh, but the smile was rather sickly. Then we
-held a council of war.
-
-Peppino, good man, saved the situation. “I will go back with the horses
-and fetch the carriage we saw abandoned at the side of the road,” he
-said. “I know the owner, and will take the responsibility for borrowing
-it on my own shoulders.”
-
-So off he went, whilst we cawed to one another from stone to stone and
-ate snow, there being nothing else to do. Before long Peppino returned
-triumphantly with the borrowed carriage, the luggage was transferred,
-and we started off again, leaving our first equipage standing
-disconsolately in the snow.
-
-All went well until eight o’clock, although my husband and Peppino had
-constantly to push at the wheels. They both looked ten years older than
-at the start, so lined and weary were their faces. At about eight we
-came to a narrow track, a real road winding round the mountain above a
-fathomless precipice. On each side the snow lay in drifts of five and
-six feet deep, and the centre track showed no sign of previous passage.
-
-We had not gone fifty yards along this road when the horses stopped and
-the wheels disappeared in a drift. Yelling, pushing, and pulling had no
-effect whatever. The horses were then harnessed to the splash-board,
-but their strenuous efforts only resulted in tearing it from the body
-of the carriage.
-
-All this time I was sitting in the snow trying to keep the little
-one warm, and hopefully encouraging the two elder ones, Charlie and
-Renée. From the mountain top came the discordant howling and barking of
-jackals; from the blackness below arose the sad wailing of a hyena. I
-very nearly became tearful.
-
-Peppino again offered his services, and proposed riding off to fetch
-help at a sheikh’s some ten miles away.
-
-“Get into the carriage, wrap yourselves up warmly with everything
-available, and wait,” he said. “In five or six hours I will bring
-assistance.”
-
-There was nothing else to be done, so we made the best of a bad job,
-packed ourselves up, and tried to sleep. The children, of course,
-succeeded at once, as did my husband, worn out with the efforts of the
-day, but I could not. My hunger was great, and I do not think I have
-ever before or since imagined such cold. Talk of African heat; African
-_cold_ has the first place in my memory.
-
-[Illustration: “I KICKED VIGOROUSLY, SHOUTING ‘HENRI!’ AND ‘PEPPINO!’”]
-
-The night was pitch-dark, and it was far from amusing to sit there
-listening to the animals prowling round. A hyena or so came very near
-to our mules, who shivered and snorted for a long time after.
-
-Numbed with cold, I suppose I at last fell asleep. Suddenly I was
-awakened by a great commotion. Then came yelling, the sound of
-horses plunging, and I heard the children shrieking “Mother!” I rose
-precipitately, a light flashed in my face, baby was seized from me, and
-I myself was borne off like an infant by a man who appeared to be a
-giant. He hurried away up the mountain-side without a word, which did
-not at all seem to me the right behaviour of rescuers. Why thus seize
-us and bear us off into the mountains?
-
-We must have been attacked by brigands, and my husband knifed as he
-slept! I kicked vigorously, shouting “Henri!” and “Peppino!” but
-received no answer, and my heart sank. Then I called “Charlie!”
-“Renée!” and to my great joy their voices answered quite close behind
-me. I therefore left off kicking--which, indeed, had no effect on
-my burly captor--and consoled myself with the thought that, though
-apparently a widow, I was not left childless.
-
-After five minutes or so my giant began to shout. Other voices
-answered; then suddenly I was planted on my feet in the inky darkness,
-but almost at once a dozen matches were struck and held to a huge heap
-of dry brushwood. In two seconds we had a royal bonfire, which not only
-warmed us but lit up the country all round.
-
-Brigands or no brigands, I thought, these Arabs were very thoughtful
-fellows.
-
-I asked several times, “Where is my husband?” but they all raised their
-hands and shoulders in vague denial of any knowledge of his existence.
-I was beginning to be really alarmed when his welcome form loomed in
-view astride a mule. I do not think we have ever quite understood how
-he came to miss us in the confusion caused by the headlong arrival of
-our rescuers. He had galloped after us along a road where we had not
-been at all; but, not finding us, had come back, and had been guided by
-the firelight.
-
-After a good warming at the fire we started for the sheikh’s house,
-ten miles off, the children being carried by Arabs on horseback, and I
-astride a mule on a “barda.” On our arrival we found couscous and sour
-milk awaiting us, and--what was far better--some good mattresses spread
-on the ground in a big, white-washed room. At ten next morning we left,
-the kindly sheikh having lent us his wagonette. Peppino had gone back
-with some Arabs to dig out and bring along Carriage Number Two.
-
-[Illustration: THE BARONESS DE BOERIO, WHO HERE DESCRIBES HER
-ADVENTURES IN ALGERIA.
-
-[_From a Photograph._]]
-
-About half-way to Boghar we met the regimental brake coming spanking
-along. The soldier driving told us that at eight o’clock an Arab had
-come to him saying that he was to harness up at once and drive for
-eight miles along the Teniet road, when he would find the Spahis’
-captain, who was stranded with his family at Sheikh ben Shinan’s.
-
-This experience of Arab telegraphy rather astonished us, for we were
-still greenhorns in this respect. Since then nothing of the kind
-surprises us; I have often learnt of distant happenings from the Arabs
-long before our own civilized methods brought me the news. Arabs travel
-a great deal by night, passing on the tidings from one to another--they
-are terrible gossips--so that it is the case of the hare and the
-tortoise. Their signalling is done by movements of the burnous by day
-and fires by night. In each district certain heights are especially
-used for this purpose. Whilst travelling by road on one occasion I
-remember hearing a long hoot-like call, and on looking in the direction
-of the sound I saw an Arab on a hill, evidently signalling with his
-burnous, for he was making regular up-and-down and to-and-fro movements
-with it. Half an hour after we saw another Arab with a huge flock
-of sheep. In the evening, when we arrived at the place we meant to
-camp at, we found ourselves expected by the sheikh, and a hospitable
-couscous prepared. He bade us welcome, saying we were later than he had
-thought. When we inquired how it was he expected us at all, he only
-vouchsafed to say, with half-closed eyes, that he had known we were on
-the road some hours before, and had supposed we would stop the night
-there. Thereupon we remembered the white-robed Arab on the hill and the
-shepherd far away, and began to understand.
-
-
-(_To be concluded._)
-
-
-
-
-[Illustration: “Shot-Gun Jim.”]
-
-BY EDWARD FRANKLIN CAMPBELL.
-
- It is safe to say that few commercial travellers meet with such
- exciting experiences as befell the three “drummers” who figure
- in this narrative. A business trip into the wilds of Arizona
- landed them into as fierce a skirmish with Indian outlaws as
- could well be imagined.
-
-
-Take a young fellow just raw from city life, throw him into the wilds
-of Arizona, and arrange for him to tumble head-first, so to speak, into
-a brisk skirmish with Indians, and he will have something to remember.
-Such was the experience which befell me about 1890.
-
-For some years I had been travelling through California, visiting the
-largest cities and towns, introducing a “line” of goods for a large
-San Francisco importing concern. Such had been my success that nothing
-would suit my firm but to add Arizona to my territory, a proposition I
-made no objection to.
-
-Of late years Arizona has vastly improved, and trouble with the Indians
-has become almost unknown, especially since that notorious warrior,
-Geronimo, was deported to the State of Florida, but up to the ‘nineties
-there was still an occasional flare-up.
-
-Both Geronimo and the villainous “Apache Kid,” a bloodthirsty red-skin
-brigand, figure in this story, the first indirectly and the second very
-prominently.
-
-[Illustration: THE AUTHOR, MR. EDWARD FRANKLIN CAMPBELL.
-
-_From a Photograph._]
-
-Having reached the town of Wilson, in the southern part of the
-territory, I fell in with two fellow-commercial salesmen--Levy,
-representing a large dry-goods concern, and Bates, handling a line of
-boots for a St. Louis house.
-
-Levy imparted the fact that he was going to visit a large mining camp,
-called World City, located some hundred and sixty miles to the north
-and as many miles distant from the railway. Bates said he would join
-Levy provided I would make one of the party.
-
-Although my route did not include this side-trip, I became convinced
-that it would pay me well to visit World City. By sharing expenses with
-Levy and Bates, the trip could be made most reasonably, so I wired my
-house accordingly, and Levy hastened to make arrangements with a local
-celebrity, a Scotchman named McGill, for transportation.
-
-An agreement having been made with McGill, the balance of the day was
-consumed in making preparations for our departure on the following
-morning. There were blankets to buy, for one is never safe without
-them. No matter how hot and burning the day may be, the nights are
-always crisp and chill on the Arizona plains, and one never knows while
-making such a trip when he will land at his destination. Nine chances
-out of ten he will be hours late. Our journey was no exception to the
-rule.
-
-On the following morning I was aroused by McGill. On the wagon, which
-was a heavy four-wheel affair, he had loaded three shoe-sample trunks,
-the property of Bates, and two immense square trunks carried by Levy.
-Beside this there were sundry boxes and bundles of blankets, as well
-as our heavy overcoats and small personal luggage.
-
-After a hasty breakfast of ham and eggs--I generally ordered ham and
-eggs in Arizona because other meats were far from tender in those
-days--we took our places on the wagon. Levy occupied the front seat
-with McGill, while Bates and I sat on top of a huge trunk, slippery and
-uncertain.
-
-Although the animals seemed good and hardy, they were small, and I do
-not think we realized the great weight of the combined load. At the
-wheels we had a pair of small and nimble mules, and as leaders a pair
-of small bay horses, whose looks did not recommend them.
-
-The first day out all went well, and we reached the little town of
-Bonita, a most desolate-looking place. We had travelled less than
-thirty miles.
-
-We drove up to the door of a little adobe building with a thatched
-roof. On the front a crude sign informed the public that it was
-a “General Store.” Another placard indicated that it was also a
-public-house, or “saloon,” as they are called in America.
-
-On entering we found ourselves in a small room with a rough counter
-running down one side, behind which was the smiling face of the
-proprietor, who lived with his wife and two beautiful daughters in the
-one adjoining room--these two rooms constituting the entire building.
-
-We spent the night on the floor of the store, in front of the counter,
-and next morning resumed our journey, hoping to reach the little group
-of buildings known as Standard before night. In my own mind--and I
-think the others believed the same--I did not really expect to reach
-Standard that night, for it was nearly fifty miles distant and our
-animals were far from fresh.
-
-I think it was about ten o’clock in the morning that we saw a cloud of
-dust several miles ahead. In time it proved to be a company of negro
-soldiers, marching to a neighbouring military post.
-
-As they came alongside we could see a number of rifles sticking out of
-the canvas of the great covered wagons which accompanied them. They
-halted, and an officer, whom McGill said was a colonel, came over. He
-saluted us pleasantly and asked laughingly:--
-
-“Are you not afraid to travel in this direction?”
-
-McGill inquired why, whereupon the officer explained that “Apache Kid”
-was out with a small band of warriors, that Geronimo had disappeared
-from the Indian Reservation, and that serious trouble was brewing.
-The troops, he added, were being moved for the purpose of heading off
-“Apache Kid” and his crowd.
-
-The smiling face of the colonel rather misled me. He did not seem
-really serious, and, as I sized up the situation, I believed it quite
-possible that he recognised our party as “tenderfeet,” and desired to
-frighten us.
-
-After the soldiers had become a mere blur in the distance we resumed
-our journey. We had gone but a few miles farther, however, when an
-accident occurred to our wagon. Something gave way--I don’t remember
-what--and it became impossible to proceed. Levy took a look at the
-wagon and declared it was “no good, anyway”; Bates joined in the
-abuse, and McGill lost his temper. Finally, I acted as peacemaker, and
-suggested that something would have to be done as the afternoon was
-advancing. Either we must return to Bonita on foot, abandoning the
-wagon and contents, or McGill would have to take the team back and
-secure another conveyance.
-
-The last alternative being accepted, we drew lots, and it fell to Levy
-to return to Bonita with McGill, while Bates and I remained to look
-after the property.
-
-McGill insisted that with the load off he would be able to haul the
-wagon back to Bonita for repairs, so we set to work and, after a
-struggle with the trunks, got the vehicle in shape to be drawn.
-
-It was with great misgivings that I saw my companions depart. It was
-not to my liking to remain as a guardian of that mass of luggage. Bates
-did not seem to mind it. He simply offered me his last cigar, then
-lighted it himself and sat down on the bare ground.
-
-I think we could see in every direction for twenty miles and more,
-except toward the mountains, which were to the east, some five miles
-distant.
-
-“Well, Bates,” I said, “what are we going to do? It’s getting mighty
-cold. The wind sweeps down from that mountain as if we might get a
-little of the storm brewing up there.”
-
-“That’s no mistake, my boy, and if I am not in error we are going to
-get snow inside of two hours. Most extraordinary for Arizona.”
-
-“Don’t you think we could arrange some shelter with these trunks and
-roll of canvas?”
-
-“Just the thing, my boy. Glad you suggested it.”
-
-So we set to work and built our house, forming our walls by arranging
-the trunks in a square, leaving a small opening to be used as a door.
-On this we spread the great piece of canvas which had been brought
-along to cover the wagon in case of storm, thus making a roof. That
-it might not be carried away by the wind, which was now howling like
-a hurricane, we weighted it with small boulders. With other rocks
-we built a small fireplace and chimney, without and facing our door.
-With the limited supply of wood, which was very scarce--sagebrush and
-gnarled mesquite--we built a small fire in our fireplace, much to our
-joy, for we were now actually blue with the cold.
-
-The sky was now thoroughly overcast with snow-clouds and the snow was
-beginning to fall, settling in miniature drifts beneath the sage bushes.
-
-In removing the trunks from the wagon our labours had been heavy, and
-we realized, as Bates expressed it, “we were twenty miles from nowhere,
-and not a drop of water nearer than Bonita.”
-
-Bates rummaged through the kit for a drink of any kind, but was only
-able to produce a diminutive flask with about one swallow of whisky in
-it. After offering this to me he took it down with a cheering “Here’s
-to you!”
-
-“Don’t throw away that flask, Bates,” I called to him as I saw him
-taking aim at a near-by sage bush. “I may be able to collect a drink
-with that.”
-
-I filled the little flask as full as I could pack it with snow which
-I collected under the bushes, then held it carefully over the fire,
-reducing the snow to water. This barely gave us enough to moisten our
-lips, and I gave it up.
-
-Then we wrapped ourselves up in our blankets and reclined inside our
-improvised house and discussed matters.
-
-“I say, Bates, what did you think of the colonel’s story about Apaches
-being out?” I asked.
-
-“Can’t say. I know if I were an Apache and had a warm wigwam to
-crawl into, the warpath could go to perdition. I’m sure I wouldn’t
-bother with it this kind of weather. You won’t have the pleasure of
-meeting Geronimo, ’Apache Kid,’ nor any other human--and, I might add,
-inhuman--being till the weather lets up.”
-
-“What have you got for protection in case we do run across them?” I
-asked.
-
-“Well, the only protection I have is a pair of boots made by the Sun
-Shoe Company, which I represent. With these on, and a fair start, I
-might outrun them. That’s all I’ve got for protection. What have you
-got?”
-
-“Well,” I said, rather apologetically, “I have a revolver here, but it
-isn’t much good. It might do to fire salutes with, but I’m afraid it
-would not do much execution. The fact is, I’ve not fired the thing for
-some years.”
-
-“Now, look here, my boy. If you should ever shoot me with that thing,
-and I should find it out, I should be quite put out about it,” said
-Bates, with a laugh. “We might as well quit worrying. If the wild and
-woolly Apaches get us, it’s fate. They’ll get us, that’s all. I’m going
-to sleep.”
-
-[Illustration: LOOKING OUT OF BRICK DUST CANYON.
-
-[_From a Photograph._]]
-
-Suiting the action to the word, he rolled over and left me to my dreary
-thoughts. I tried to sleep and did drop into a light slumber, from
-which I was suddenly awakened by a startled exclamation from Bates.
-
-As I opened my eyes he was just going through the doorway on all fours.
-
-“Bring that revolver here,” he called to me.
-
-As quickly as possible I was out after him. He was gazing towards the
-mountains in the distance.
-
-“What has happened?” I asked, in some alarm at the sudden call to arms.
-
-He explained that something had come to the door of our house. He could
-hear it, but only caught a slight glimpse of it as he raised his head,
-for it dashed out of sight immediately. It was evidently an animal of
-some sort, for we found the marks of its feet and claws in the soft
-earth. Whatever it was we never caught sight of it.
-
-We were now thoroughly awake. The weather had cleared, the sun was
-shining warmly and my spirits were beginning to rise.
-
-Far off, down the incline of the plain, we could see the spot known as
-Bonita. Between us and the town all was open, save for some sage bushes
-here and there dotting the view.
-
-Surely McGill should now be on his way back, but not a sign of him
-could we see.
-
-We recalled the fact that we were hungry. Bates rummaged in the
-kit. The net results were a small paper of biscuits and a tin of
-beef--nothing else.
-
-We ate all the biscuits and half of the beef, collected more firewood,
-and, at about six o’clock, discovered the team slowly wending its way
-from Bonita. It was more than an hour before it arrived at our camp.
-
-Another serious matter now confronted us. Either we must stay with our
-improvised camp or, as McGill suggested, make for Brick Dust Canyon, in
-the mountain, where lived a frontiersman named James W. Smith, who had
-a little farm situated on an oasis of productive earth in the midst of
-this vast wilderness of alkali and sand.
-
-Eventually we decided upon the latter alternative, and succeeded in
-loading up and making a start.
-
-For a long time we crept upward, no one riding except McGill, in order
-to relieve the tired animals.
-
-Reaching the summit of the ascent at last, McGill stopped, for we had
-now to descend into a deep canyon.
-
-Daylight had by this time given way to deepest night, and ahead all
-looked black and forbidding. Our driver could not even see the road,
-which was, moreover, obscured by a growth of trees in the canyon.
-
-“Gentlemen,” said McGill, “this rig has no brake to hold it. There is a
-big down-grade here and a sharp turn at the bottom. From there to Jim’s
-house is about a mile. We must manage to stop one of the hind wheels,
-for these mules will never be able to hold the load in check; besides,
-I can’t see the road, and must let the animals take their course.”
-
-We tied the right rear wheel with a stout bit of rope and started
-again, but with this difference--Levy, Bates, and I each lighted
-cigars, which Levy had brought from Bonita, and, puffing vigorously at
-these, walked ahead of the load, endeavouring to pilot McGill by the
-glow of the lighted “stogies.”
-
-There were times when the mules and the locked wheel were insufficient
-to check the wagon to any great extent, on account of the steepness
-of the grade, but at first all went well. It was not long before we
-reached the sharp turn at the bottom. We were greatly in advance of
-McGill now, and, indeed, we could hear nothing of him, so Levy went
-back to investigate and to warn him of the danger ahead. He found
-the wagon halted at a fairly level spot to recuperate the exhausted
-animals. Levy told the Scotsman that he was about to plunge down the
-last and most precipitous piece of road, and urged him to give it up.
-
-McGill was headstrong, however, and insisted upon going ahead, so we
-took up our stand with our cigars, to mark the turn at the bottom, and
-the big vehicle started.
-
-We could hear it gaining speed every moment. Mingled with the rumbling
-of the wagon and the clatter of the animals’ hoofs we heard the shouts
-of McGill, who had now lost all control over his team.
-
-On they came with a rush and a roar, and we, who were lighting the way,
-discovered we were in some danger. At the last moment we sprang back
-into the rocks and brush at the side as the team swept irresistibly on.
-
-The leaders took the turn all right, but the next instant there was a
-crash and a yell from McGill. The wagon had left the road and plunged
-into a tree, the harness gave way, and Bedlam broke loose.
-
-The Scotsman saved his skin by jumping fairly into a bush, while we
-sprang to the animals’ heads to check them. They showed, however, no
-disposition on their part to run away; they knew when they had had
-enough.
-
-Away down in the distance we could see a light, which McGill said was
-at Jim’s house. He would leave us with the animals and seek assistance
-from the house, he told us.
-
-“I shall go across-lots,” he shouted back to us, “by a trail which will
-save a lot of walking.”
-
-For hours Bates, Levy, and I awaited his return in vain. We exhausted
-every topic of conversation we could think of, and at last, tired,
-disgusted, and feeling thoroughly out of sorts, we set off down the
-road, taking the animals with us.
-
-Although we could still see the light, we walked for a long time before
-we actually arrived before a small adobe house, which was surrounded by
-a thick wall some eight feet high. The road led us to a pair of huge
-solid gates, which, being closed, prevented us seeing within. We called
-out, and in a few seconds a voice answered us, and we were conscious of
-someone approaching the gates with a lantern.
-
-This proved to be Jim Smith himself. He seemed to be in a very merry
-mood, for, although we were total strangers, he almost laughed in our
-faces. He had a story to tell, it soon appeared, of a misfortune which
-had befallen our friend McGill.
-
-It seemed that in attempting to take his short cut “across-lots,” the
-Scotsman had struck a cattle trail, which led to a watering-trough set
-beside a newly-dug well, the existence of which he knew nothing of.
-
-By a curious accident, he walked straight into this well and plunged
-into eight feet of water.
-
-It happened that Smith was at that moment bringing some young cattle
-into his walled enclosure, and, hearing the muffled cries of McGill in
-the well, believed they proceeded from a cow in difficulties.
-
-Lantern in hand, he made his way to the well and called out. Judge of
-his surprise when he heard a voice, as from the tomb, growl:--
-
-“I’ve lost my bloomin’ pipe!”
-
-Looking into the well, he discovered McGill clinging to the sides as
-best he could with fingers and nails. It was but a moment’s work to
-throw him a line and bring him out, as sorry and dejected-looking a
-scarecrow as one could imagine. Strange to relate, it was all that Jim
-could do to keep McGill from going back into the well for his cherished
-briar, the loss of which seemed to worry him greatly.
-
-We found the Scotsman in a very bad temper, complaining bitterly of the
-loss of his pipe, which he told us he was smoking at the time of his
-misfortune.
-
-We received a hearty welcome from Jim and his wife. The latter was
-busy soothing their ten-months-old baby to sleep. There they lived, in
-that little one-room house, eating, sleeping, and cooking in the same
-apartment.
-
-[Illustration: “SHOT-GUN JIM.”
-
-_From a Photograph._]
-
-I began to speculate as to where we tired travellers would find a place
-to lay our heads. The house was a solid adobe, without windows. In the
-doorway hung a frame, on which was fastened a strip of canvas in lieu
-of a door.
-
-A hearty meal was prepared by Mrs. Smith, after which we were invited
-to go out and bring in our beds.
-
-On our return we found that Mrs. Smith and the babe were already in
-the huge bed in the corner. Jim was preparing to follow, and we were
-invited to spread our blankets on the floor, which, like the Bonita
-store, was mother earth.
-
-Our sleep was far more restful than on the previous night. At an
-early hour we were awakened by Smith, who seemed to be worried about
-something. I followed him to the door of the house and discovered that
-he was holding a whispered conversation with a stranger, a young fellow
-of about eighteen years. As soon as I approached they stopped speaking
-and I was introduced to the young man, whose name was given as “Hank.”
-
-Suddenly Smith spoke:--
-
-“We might as well tell ’em about it, Hank,” he said. “They’ve got to
-know it sooner or later. Tain’t safe to get out of this place now.
-Besides, your horse is used up.”
-
-I glanced in the direction indicated, and saw a horse covered in
-lather, with drooping head and general dejected appearance. I knew he
-must have had fearful riding to be in this condition.
-
-“Well, you tell ’em, Jim,” replied Hank. “I reckon we’re here, all of
-us, to stay awhile.”
-
-“I can’t afford to remain, Mr. Smith,” I said, thinking that the
-wrecked wagon might be the reason for the conversation. “If the outfit
-will hold together I think we had better go on as soon as possible.”
-
-Smith looked at me with pitying eyes.
-
-“You may never leave this place at all,” he returned, gravely. “This
-young man is the only survivor of a massacre, about ten miles from
-here. ‘Apache Kid’ and his band are, perhaps, at this very moment close
-to our gates.”
-
-Instinctively I glanced at the gates, and noticed for the first time
-that heavy timbers were propped against them.
-
-“Not only that, but McGill has disappeared,” continued Smith. “I think
-he may have gone in search of his pipe. We dare not risk going outside
-the enclosure, and he must get back as best he can.”
-
-Just then the others of our party and Mrs. Smith, with the babe in her
-arms, joined us, having begun to realize that something was amiss.
-
-Then Jim began to organize his forces. First he took an inventory of
-the available arms and ammunition, calling on our party to exhibit such
-weapons as we had about us.
-
-Next Jim brought out a number of guns. There were three excellent
-repeating rifles, with several hundred rounds of ammunition, and an
-old shot-gun, which proved of no value. Next came Jim’s own pet--a
-beautiful double-barrelled shot-gun. With these were several boxes
-of ammunition. Last came a motley array of “six-shooters,” a part of
-which were serviceable and for which there was a limited amount of
-ammunition. Two hand-axes and a small affair for chopping firewood were
-counted as weapons for close quarters.
-
-The whole lot was delivered into the care of Mrs. Smith, who was
-instructed to load the guns and arrange the ammunition conveniently on
-a table brought from the house.
-
-At odd moments the good woman was assembling quantities of food, so
-that, in case of an attack, prolonged or otherwise, we might have her
-services at the ammunition.
-
-Meanwhile Hank had been sent to the top of the house, which had a
-low, flat roof, where he was keeping close watch with a pair of
-field-glasses. He called to Jim that he believed he had discovered
-McGill in the topmost branches of a tree, a long distance up the
-canyon. It appeared that he was making signals, for we soon discovered
-that he occasionally waved a white handkerchief, and he appeared to be
-trying to draw our attention to something to the south.
-
-Presently Hank reported that McGill was climbing down the tree, and in
-a moment he was running down the road towards the house as fast as his
-long legs would carry him. Jim prepared to open one of the gates.
-
-Just then a shot rang out, followed by others. We could hear McGill
-coming full tilt. Jim opened the gate a little way and reported that a
-band of Indians were in close pursuit of the Scotsman.
-
-A moment later, breathless and exhausted, McGill flung himself through
-the open gate, which was speedily secured behind him.
-
-As quickly as possible Jim ran a rough wagon out of a shed and placed
-it alongside of the wall. It was evident now why this latter had been
-built high and strong; the reason for placing the wagon beside it,
-however, was not yet evident to us.
-
-Soon we heard the rush of a score of Indian horses, the whoops and
-yells of their savage riders, and the crack of their rifles.
-
-Their shots did no damage, however, but were sufficiently accurate to
-cause Hank to dodge behind the stone chimney, whence he dropped over
-the edge to the ground.
-
-There was a savage onslaught upon the immense heavy gates, but they
-held firm, being well braced by the timbers. So far not a sound had
-escaped us, and it was evident that the Indians were chagrined that
-they had not made a greater impression.
-
-For a few moments we could hear them in consultation before the gates,
-and presently a voice called out in broken English.
-
-To this no reply was made, nor was any evidence of life vouchsafed from
-our side.
-
-“Now, boys,” whispered Jim, “get ready. They’re going to show their
-heads in a minute--just over there, near the wagon. That is the easiest
-place for them to look over, and I have tried to make it look more
-inviting. So look alive and each pick his game. Don’t miss, or there’ll
-be trouble.”
-
-Next moment five ugly Apache heads bobbed up over the wall
-simultaneously. They were evidently so sure that the place was
-unprotected that four of them, in their enthusiasm, clambered half-way
-on top of the wall before they became aware of the reception that had
-been planned for them.
-
-The volley that followed their appearance was almost like one shot,
-and the four most daring red-skins received the bullets intended for
-them. Two were killed instantly, and partly hung over the wall as they
-doubled up; two others, mortally wounded, slid off the wall and were
-dragged away by their companions. The less venturesome got away with a
-whole skin.
-
-With our volley pandemonium seemed to break loose; the red-skins let
-out a yell that fairly chilled us to the bone. Jim called us to seek
-shelter at the rear of the house.
-
-We were none too soon, for a terrific fire was poured into the
-enclosure by the Indians, who were taking haphazard shots towards us,
-without putting their heads into jeopardy.
-
-[Illustration: “THE VOLLEY FOLLOWING THEIR APPEARANCE WAS ALMOST LIKE
-ONE SHOT.”]
-
-Presently we discovered that one lot of the savages were trying to
-burrow under the gates, and were indeed making some headway. Jim seemed
-to be everywhere at once, using his shot-gun as his sole means of
-defence. The moment a hand was seen in the growing excavation under
-the gate he let drive with his shot-gun, and another Indian was out of
-commission.
-
-I remember I kept a sort of mental tally of the fallen. Hank had told
-me that there were about twenty-three in the band, so I calculated:
-“Four dead on the first attack on the wall; one shot through the hand,
-under the gate. Balance to their credit--eighteen.”
-
-Just then we received an unexpected shock. We saw a curl of smoke
-rising above the gates; the savages were piling brush against them, to
-which they had already set fire. This was a serious matter, which even
-Jim had not calculated upon. He ordered us to lie low while he took a
-look round.
-
-I was so interested to know what he would do that I could not resist
-the temptation to put my head around the corner of the house, and this
-is what I saw.
-
-Jim crept on hands and knees towards the wagon which we had placed
-against the wall. In a moment he had reached it, shot-gun in hand, and
-silently and slowly raised himself into it, gradually straightening out
-with his head and arms just above the wall. Then, quick as a flash, he
-took aim. There was a crash--or rather a double crash, for he had fired
-both barrels--an awful yell from the Indians, and he was speeding back
-to safety.
-
-[Illustration: “I FELT MYSELF BEING DRAGGED OVER.”]
-
-One savage, braver than the rest, took a quick shot at him. The bullet
-did no harm to Jim, but came near being fatal to me, for I had been
-so intent on watching him that I now found that I had unconsciously
-stepped into the open.
-
-Instead of bolting for shelter, I had but one thing in mind--to check
-up the account and see how many “good” Indians there were and how many
-bad ones.
-
-Consequently, in a moment--foolhardy as it may seem--I was on the
-wagon, peering over the wall, taking account of the dead and wounded at
-the gates.
-
-Although Jim’s shot-gun had done fearful execution, there were but two
-who appeared to be actually dead.
-
-Just then something struck me in the face, a hand grasped me from
-over the wall, and I felt myself being dragged over, into the arms of
-the “Apache Kid” himself! Several other savages were running to his
-assistance. All that I can recall is that I thought my last hour had
-come, and struck out blindly with my fists, clinging, as best I could,
-to the wall with my legs.
-
-I am not an experienced boxer, but I had the advantage over my
-assailant, for I was uppermost.
-
-Things seemed to be going badly with me, however, for I felt my hold on
-the wall gradually weakening.
-
-Just at that instant I heard a rush behind me. I was so done up that I
-could only think of more Indians, but in reality it was Levy, Hank, and
-Jim coming to the rescue.
-
-I was grasped from behind and felt that I should be pulled to pieces.
-I let out with my fists with renewed vigour, and landed such a fierce
-tattoo on the face of my captor that he involuntarily sought to protect
-his face with his hands, whereupon Levy, Hank, Jim, and I fell into a
-confused heap over the side of the wagon.
-
-It was a few minutes before they restored me to my senses, and I found
-myself with clothing half torn off, covered with dust, and generally
-bruised.
-
-My first words were:--
-
-“Two killed, three wounded badly; net balance thirteen. That number is
-unlucky. We’ll win!”
-
-“What in the name of common sense are you talking about?” asked Bates,
-who was bending over me.
-
-“Well, there were twenty-three Indians when we started; we killed four
-at first shot, three at the second, and two at the third, besides
-wounding three beyond present help. That leaves thirteen, doesn’t it?”
-
-We were recalled to a sense of our peril by the sound of breaking
-timbers. The gates were being forced!
-
-Through the chinks we could see the Indians working industriously with
-a battering-ram, improvised from the trunk of a tree. At any moment the
-gates might fall, and we knew there would be little hope for us once
-the red-skins gained an entrance.
-
-Jim now sent his wife inside the house for better protection. The
-little babe had, up to this time, been peacefully sleeping on the
-bed, which must now be used to barricade the door of the house.
-Consequently, the little fellow was disturbed as his mother moved the
-huge affair against the opening, and he, too, added to the din of the
-engagement.
-
-“Now, gentlemen,” said Jim, “we’ve got to make a last stand. The gates
-will be down in a minute; they have been greatly weakened by the fire.
-Every one of you to the roof!”
-
-Up to the roof we climbed as a last resort. I think we all realized the
-gravity of the situation.
-
-We stretched ourselves flat, weapons in hand, and waited. It seemed
-ages. We could hear the cries of the infant mingled with the sobs of
-the distracted mother. Bates, who had an abominable voice, tried to
-sing a hymn. Smith told him to be quiet--the situation was trying
-enough without his music.
-
-Presently there came a crash--the gates were down. In rushed the
-red-skins, a fearless crowd. There were just thirteen; I counted them.
-
-“Now, gentlemen, let ’em have it,” called Jim, in a low tone.
-
-Well, we did let them have it; there was no mistake about that. There
-was a blaze from the rifles, Jim’s shot-gun, and the revolvers, and we
-all pumped lead as fast as we could.
-
-When the smoke cleared a little we looked below. There were eight
-red-skins as dead as ever they could be. Three more were crawling away
-on all fours, seriously wounded.
-
-This left two on my record unaccounted for. We soon spied them making
-off over the little hills towards Brick Dust Canyon as fast as their
-legs could carry them.
-
-One of them was “Apache Kid,” the leader. He got off with a whole skin,
-but I’ll wager that he had some marks about his face.
-
-When we got down from the roof we could no longer hear Mrs. Smith or
-the babe, and feared they had been killed by stray bullets. Repeated
-calls failed to bring response.
-
-When we forced an entrance we found her in a dead faint, lying on the
-bed beside the infant, who was chewing his fist and chuckling as if in
-great glee.
-
-Woman-like, Mrs. Smith deferred her swoon till all danger was past.
-
-To the delight of McGill, his miserable briar was recovered that day by
-Jim, who said he did not want the well spoiled, otherwise he would have
-left it there.
-
-“Shot-gun Jim”--for that is how he is always known now, on account of
-his fearful execution with his shot-gun, for it was he who really saved
-the day--has never been troubled by Apaches since. He still insists
-on living in that forsaken spot, forgetful of the terrible scenes of
-carnage and danger he has passed through, working at a copper mine
-which he discovered up beyond Brick Dust Canyon.
-
-
-
-
-[Illustration: A Perilous Mission.]
-
-BY S. F. MARTIN, LATE OF THE ROYAL NIGER COMPANY’S SERVICE.
-
- The modestly-told story of a daring deed. At a time of
- great anxiety, when England and France were on the verge of
- conflict in Africa and the powerful Mohammedan native States
- were watching for an opportunity of throwing off the yoke of
- both countries, Mr. Martin was District Agent of the Royal
- Niger Company at Borgu. He was instructed to secure reliable
- information as to what was happening in the turbulent robber
- kingdom of Kontogora, and he obtained it by the hazardous
- expedient of disguising himself as a Haussa and, taking his
- life in his hands, penetrating right into the enemy’s capital.
- His adventures during this journey are set forth below, though
- the narrative contains barely a hint of the strain of the
- ordeal or the awful fate that would have befallen the author
- had his real identity been suspected.
-
-
-Towards the latter end of 1898, before the conquest of Nigeria, I was
-placed in charge of the interests of the Royal Niger Company, Chartered
-and Limited, in the Borgu district of the Niger Territories. My
-instructions, amongst other things, were to watch events, political and
-otherwise, and to report the same to head-quarters.
-
-It was a time of great stress and no little peril to our West African
-Empire, for not only were the various races of the Territories in a
-state of unrest and hostility to the white man’s domination, but at
-that period we were also at loggerheads with the French, whose troops
-were encroaching on our frontiers from all sides, necessitating a
-special field force being formed, under Colonel (later General Sir
-Frederick) Lugard, to deal with the situation. The native Mohammedan
-States, seeing this, thought to take advantage of the crisis to the
-detriment of both nations.
-
-The most turbulent of all these native States was Kontogora, a town
-lying to the eastward of the Niger River. At the time of which I write
-there were British troops at Jebba, Leabba, Boussa, Roffia, Gomba,
-Lafagon, and Illa, as well as smaller garrisons scattered about, all on
-the Niger. There was a strong force also at Zaria, a large town away to
-the east, some distance south of Kano. The French were prowling about
-in between.
-
-It being reported that Kontogora was preparing to take up arms, I
-determined to find out the facts of the case for myself, as, if this
-State seriously intended causing trouble and gained any successes
-against us, the whole Mohammedan Empire was sure to rise to a man,
-and it would be difficult for us to hold our own, to say nothing of
-expelling the French. My orders were to remain in Boussa, but, having
-weighed the pros and cons very carefully, and decided that it would be
-well within the spirit, if not exactly the letter, of my instructions
-to take the action I intended, I determined to find out in person how
-far this rumour was true and how great the danger really was to our
-Imperial interests. I had mastered the Haussa tongue, the prevailing
-language of those regions, and could hold my own easily with the
-Haussas themselves, my natural aptitude for picking up tongues standing
-me in good stead. Consequently, without informing anyone where I was
-going, beyond leaving word that I was off on a shooting trip, on the
-night of the 17th of November, 1898, I dyed myself from head to foot
-a deep brown, arrayed myself in very shabby Haussa clothes, and set
-off, with my guide, Mama, for Kontogora. I took the name of “Abdu
-Maidowda”--Abdu the dirty. All carriers in Haussaland take nicknames,
-given them by their masters or companions. It is seldom that a white
-man ever knows the real names of his servants.
-
-We tramped all that night, and next morning stopped at a small village
-in the midst of farmlands in the N’gaski Kingdom. The whole country
-hereabouts was bitterly hostile to the white man’s _régime_. The state
-of unrest was manifest everywhere; people went armed to their work in
-the fields, as raids from neighbouring towns seemed to be of frequent
-occurrence. Although the various native kingdoms were quite at one with
-regard to their hatred of the white man, yet amongst themselves they
-were always warring and raiding for slaves--the big towns bullying the
-smaller villages. The main cause of this was the heavy slave tribute
-levied by the Sultan of Sokoto--the great head of the Moslem Church in
-the Sudan--on all his vassal States.
-
-Having rested for a few hours, we set out again about midday. It
-was fiercely hot as we trudged through the guinea-corn fields that
-stretched for miles all around us, and the heat, striking down from
-the fiery sun, that hung directly overhead, made me dizzy. I staggered
-along at times in a kind of hot, sweltering day-dream--seeing things
-that did not exist, and thinking the most absurd thoughts. Once I
-called a halt at a well of very dirty water, flung myself down on my
-hands and knees, and bathed my head and neck for several minutes, Mama
-looking on amused. The people in the fields were gathering in the corn
-in feverish haste, but every now and then they paused long enough to
-question us as to our destination and whence we came. We invariably
-told the same tale--we were travelling to Kontogora from Illorin.
-
-[Illustration: THE AUTHOR, MR. S. F. MARTIN, IN HAUSSA DRESS.
-
-_From a Photograph._]
-
-It must have been about 4 p.m., judging by the sun, when, on that
-second day out, we topped a rise of rocky ground and came face to
-face with the head of a caravan of some thirty people, with a large
-number of goats, coming from the westward. There were several women
-on donkeys, ten armed men on horseback, and the balance consisted of
-carriers. As we stood watching them the caravan halted and one of the
-horsemen came prancing up to us with a great flourishing of his spear.
-He asked us, very roughly, whence we came and whither we were bound.
-Mama answered that we were from Illorin, whither we had taken loads for
-a rich merchant from Kano, and were now bound for Kontogora, where we
-hoped to obtain work, as we understood that the Emir was preparing for
-war on the white man. He then asked our questioner if we might not join
-his caravan, and if he would let us carry a load each in return for our
-food. At this we were taken before the head of the party, who proved
-to be an enormously fat woman. With a wave of the hand she gave her
-consent, and we were forthwith enlisted in the line of coolies.
-
-We pushed on that afternoon to some farmhouses, where we halted for
-the night. The fat lady took up her abode in the headman’s hut, and
-we carriers wandered about to find quarters for ourselves. For the
-most part we slept in the open, beneath a great tree growing outside
-the entrance to the headman’s compound. Mama and I had no intention
-of losing sight of our companions, as we did not wish to let slip
-this excellent chance of getting in to Kontogora, which was also the
-destination of the caravan, without danger of possible discovery.
-The farm people were good enough to give us food and drink, and also
-supplied us with plenty of firewood.
-
-After sitting around the fire for a short time, we coolies one by one
-curled up on our mats (each carried a small grass mat) and, with our
-feet to the fire, slept the dreamless sleep of the utterly weary.
-
-Next morning I was awakened by Mama shaking me by the shoulder. My
-clothes were wet with dew, and I commenced to shiver with cold, cursing
-myself in my sleepy condition for being so foolish as to put myself in
-such a perilous predicament.
-
-As I arose and stretched myself I beheld silent forms passing to
-and fro, and signs that the world was awakening became increasingly
-evident. Then fires were lit and breakfast cooked; but not before we
-had washed our eyes, mouth, and hands, uttering a few words from the
-Koran the while. After partaking of boiled guinea-corn and soup, we
-espied the fat lady preparing to mount her donkey, and, securing our
-loads, took our place in the column that began to form up. Soon we were
-once again trudging through the open country on our way to Kontogora.
-
-[Illustration: “ONE OF THE HORSEMEN CAME PRANCING UP TO US WITH A GREAT
-FLOURISHING OF HIS SPEAR.”]
-
-All along the route I was struck with the apparent haste with which
-the people were gathering in the corn. Our companions told us that the
-Seriki (King) of Kontogora was preparing to wage war on the white man,
-and had ordered his people to get in all their corn at once.
-
-The day before we entered Kontogora we were overtaken by a raiding
-party, who were returning to that place with their spoil--about twenty
-young girls and women, as well as several little children--all tied
-together, each having one wrist made fast to the neck, across the chest.
-
-Their captors were Fulehs and Haussas, on horseback, armed with swords
-and spears, and one or two with guns. Some of the poor captives looked
-terribly emaciated, and could hardly get along. I saw one woman get a
-slash of a hippo hide whip across the face, that sent her reeling to
-the ground, with a great gash on her forehead. The incident stopped
-the whole column for a few minutes, as the woman was fastened to her
-fellow-prisoners by the neck, and, when she fell, prevented them from
-advancing. The whip was then applied freely in all directions. The
-chief of the band ordered the wounded woman’s squirming comrades to
-pick her up and carry her, but they were unable to do so, being too
-utterly worn out, I could see. They were coated in dust from head
-to foot, and the perspiration trickling down their naked skins and
-mingling with the dust made the poor things appear a sorry sight. The
-band had, apparently, captured them at some far-distant spot, and must
-have brought them along at a great pace, judging by the rate they were
-going when they overtook us.
-
-Furious at their inability to pick the woman up, the ruffian in command
-raised his spear and plunged it three times into the body of the
-prostrate woman. He followed this up by actually trampling her under
-his horse’s feet, while I groaned in an agony of horror and impotent
-rage at the ghastly spectacle.
-
-The brute, having satisfied himself that his victim was dead, cut the
-grass rope that bound her to her fellows with a slash of his sword,
-and ordered the party to proceed. They left us at a quick walk--some
-of the poor captives even running in their terror--and were soon out
-of sight over a rise in the ground. Our party followed at a slower
-pace in dead silence, leaving the poor mangled thing by the roadside
-to provide a meal for the vultures and hyenas that would soon be on
-the scene. I for one, however, realized then that no wild beast of the
-desert could compare for utter brutality and lust for blood with the
-human satyrs who overran that land at the time of which I write. For
-miles around, between Kontogora and the Niger, and farther afield to
-the north, south, and east, the smoking ruins of raided villages told
-the ever-repeated tale of death and violence, robbery and rapine, and
-I knew full well what would happen to me should my disguise, by any
-mischance, be penetrated.
-
-About five miles outside Kontogora our caravan was stopped by some
-horsemen who came galloping towards us and drew up across our path.
-They had a long parley with our chiefs before allowing us to proceed,
-and only did so on payment of a toll. These men were scouts, and I
-found out later that the whole country for five miles around the city
-was effectually patrolled, no one being allowed to enter or leave
-without permission. When we finally arrived outside the walls of
-Kontogora it was night, and in the moonlight the scene was beautiful
-and striking. The high castellated ramparts, with watch-towers over the
-gates, looked strange and fantastic in the soft, mysterious light.
-
-As we approached the gate we mingled with the members of another
-caravan. Mama and I were at the tail of the line, about five or six
-from the end. We chose this position to minimize the possibility of
-trouble, although there really seemed little chance of that in such a
-deceptive light. Still, there was just the chance, as we soon found out
-when the head of the caravan reached the gate. Here it was abruptly
-ordered to halt, and the guards held quite a long palaver before it
-was allowed to proceed. At the same time a little incident occurred
-that made my blood run cold for a few minutes. There was a cry of
-“Abokai! Abokai! Kai!” (“Friends! Friends! Halloa, there!”) from the
-gate, and the whole column was soon calling “Aboki! Aboki!” (“Friend!
-Friend!”)--the Haussa manner of hailing anybody. They were shouting,
-it soon appeared, for myself and Mama, and we were speedily hustled
-forward by our companions. When we reached the gate our employer,
-the fat lady merchant who had engaged us, indicated us to the guards
-with a haughty wave of the hand. We could see a crowd of mounted and
-unmounted men in the darkness of the gateway, and one among these, who
-seemed gigantic in the moonlight as he rode forward on a horse equally
-gigantic, curveted up to us. Striking my turban from off my head with
-the tip of his spear, he loudly asked for our names. I answered that we
-were two poor travellers from Illorin, come to offer our services to
-the Emir. He asked us where our belongings were and the money that our
-master had paid us at Illorin. I told him that the white man had met
-us on the road and taken everything, as we were friends of Kontogora.
-At this the captain of the gate gave vent to some extremely sulphurous
-language. Then, with a slight movement of the reins, he caused his
-horse to rear up on his hind legs and, with pawing fore-feet, to burst
-furiously through the crowd of coolies round about us, trampling one
-or two badly. Finally, the caravan was allowed to move on under the
-gate into the town. As we entered, the _mallams_ (priests) were calling
-to prayer, and the long-drawn cry, like an appeal for mercy, floated
-through the night, striking on the air with that strange, indefinable
-sense of mysticism that belongs to the East alone.
-
-We wound in and out, out and in, through the moonlit streets with their
-black shadows, their mud walls, and conical, thatch-roofed houses. Then
-we emerged into the market-place, near which our employer resided.
-Entering her compound, we put down our loads, and, seating ourselves,
-awaited our wages. Mama and I were the first to be paid. We were handed
-one string apiece of cowrie shells--equivalent to one shilling each,
-at that time and place. We haggled over this like true-born carriers
-for fully half an hour, and, as the fat lady’s head slave refused to
-budge, accepted what we got with a blessing--and promptly received
-another five hundred cowries for our good nature. The Haussa will often
-do this, for, as much as he fears a curse, by so much does he value
-a blessing. A great many rogues take advantage of this trait in the
-native character.
-
-Having been paid off, Mama and I left the compound rejoicing. Here we
-were, in the very heart of Kontogora--scatheless! We wandered into the
-market-place, where some people were still loitering, and decided to
-sleep in one of the stalls and begin our investigations in the morning.
-
-It was many hours before I got to sleep, as my feet ached fearfully and
-were badly torn and blistered. During the march I had alternately gone
-barefoot and in sandals to rest them, and at times I got badly knocked
-about when carrying the leathers in my hand. Several times during the
-night bands of young Haussas passed through the market-place, shouting
-and laughing, boasting what they were going to do to the Turawa (white
-man).
-
-Four batches of labourers passed through also, between the time we
-retired and dawn, dragging dead horses out of the town. Tom-toms
-were going all the night; at times the whole air quivered with the
-rhythmical sounds. The quaint tinkling of the Haussa guitar rose
-and fell at intervals, and from time to time the weird notes of the
-“ghoghie,” or native fiddle, could be heard from the compounds. A
-spirit of excitement and revel seemed to pervade the whole town.
-
-Next morning we loitered about until the market began to fill, when we
-bought some food. We then repaired to the Galadima’s residence, and
-enlisted in the army of labourers that were employed in repairing the
-walls of the town. Many of these labourers were slaves, sent by the
-various chiefs and big men; others belonged to the Emir himself. About
-four hundred of us were dispatched to the north wall. Here some made
-bricks out of the soft clay; others, including myself, stood on the
-wall and laid them, and yet others passed those already dried up to us
-on the wall.
-
-While working in this way I gathered a lot of information. Raiding
-parties had been out all the week, I learned, and spies and runners
-from Zaria brought in news every day concerning the movements of the
-white men in that city. Bands of armed men were continually bringing
-in slaves from the ruined villages in the surrounding country. It was
-said that N’gaski and Kontogora would join forces, attack the whites in
-Zaria, and drive them out. Dandugnsu and Ridjion, neighbouring towns,
-had promised their support in the campaign. I also learnt that orders
-had come in from the Sultan of Sokoto that the Emir was not to commence
-a war against the white man, but to remain on the defensive. The Emir
-of Kontogora had replied that he was quite prepared to meet all comers,
-from whatever direction--a pretty broad hint to Sokoto, I thought.
-One fellow laying bricks told Mama that the man who killed Lieutenant
-Thomson at Bida, in the late Niger Sudan campaign undertaken by the
-Chartered Company against the Fulehs of Bida and Illorin, was now in
-the town and was considered a very great hero.
-
-About midday an order came for some twenty men to repair to the Emir’s
-compound. I was chosen as one of the gang, together with Mama. So
-off we marched. When we arrived we found that a horse and a cow had
-died, and were to be dragged out of the town and thrown into the moat
-under the walls. Tying up the hind legs with grass rope, we hauled the
-carcasses through the streets and out by one of the gates and dumped
-them into the ditch. Having finished our unpleasant task, we trudged
-back to the north wall and recommenced laying bricks.
-
-One swaggering youngster had annoyed me very much all the morning. He
-was an overseer amongst the men, and apparently one of the wealthy
-young bloods of the town. Shortly after my return from removing the
-dead horse this youth strutted up to me and started cursing me roundly
-in Haussa, saying that I was more like a woman than a man and that
-my work was no good. Finally, raising his hand, he struck me in the
-mouth. Forgetting myself completely for the moment, I stepped up to the
-fellow, who promptly drew his sword. Without any trouble I disarmed
-him; then, catching him by the neck, I shook him like a rat and dropped
-him into the ditch on the far side of the wall.
-
-For a moment there was dead silence; next a chorus of applause and
-laughter broke out. But Mama plucked me by the sleeve. “Go,” he said,
-in a low tone; “I will meet you to-night, an hour after sundown, at the
-place we slept in last night.”
-
-[Illustration: “I SHOOK HIM LIKE A RAT AND DROPPED HIM INTO THE DITCH.”]
-
-Divining my danger, I slipped away and mingled with the crowd, nobody
-venturing to interfere. I passed down some side streets that zigzagged
-about confusingly, wandered in the outskirts of the town for an hour or
-more, and then made my way to the market-place, which I found swarming
-with people.
-
-Buying some boiled guinea-corn, I sat down outside a stall and munched
-my lunch. The woman who sold me the food was a garrulous old person,
-but perfectly good-natured. She asked me all about myself, and I
-told her that I had come from Zaria, where I had fled through fear
-of the white men. She informed me that I had nothing to fear from
-them; were it not for their guns they would be quite harmless. Then
-I asked her when it was that Kontogora intended setting out to drive
-the Turawa from Zaria. “Go round the blacksmiths’ shops and inquire at
-the smithies,” was all the answer I could get. I thought the idea a
-good one, and, bidding my new friend “Good day,” I sauntered through
-the crowded market-place, stopping at various booths. In one of these
-some blacksmiths were hard at work, making arrow and spear heads from
-bits of iron and tin. As I stood looking at them I gathered, from
-the conversation that was going on around, that some of the Emir’s
-sons were expected to arrive in Kontogora that day, and that they were
-bringing some of the white men’s guns with them that were taken at
-Hella, when Lieutenant Keating’s party was massacred. Here was a bit
-of news worth having! The conversation turning on matters that did not
-interest me, I strolled on until I arrived at the head blacksmith’s
-shop, near the Emir’s compound, where I watched the hammers pounding
-the red-hot metal. I could see that the whole town was busy making
-arms, which boded ill for the whites.
-
-Suddenly I heard a shout of “Gashi! Gashi!” (“There he is! There
-he is!”). Then there was a rush of feet, and a flash of swords in
-upraised arms. Evidently my pursuers had found me out. I backed
-into the blacksmith’s shop, followed by a yelling crowd, and caught
-a momentary glimpse of my tormentor of the morning. Then, without
-warning, something was thrown over my head, and I was dragged violently
-backwards, flung to the ground, and stunned by a succession of heavy
-blows.
-
-When I came to my senses I found myself being hauled unceremoniously to
-my feet, my arms bound firmly. In this ignominious state I was dragged
-amid curses and cuffs through the town, a yelling crowd of bloodthirsty
-ruffians surrounding me. They hauled me through a doorway into a
-compound surrounded with high walls, on into a big building, through
-many rooms and passages, and ultimately down some rough steps into
-a filthy, stinking dungeon, reeking of mould and damp. Here, with a
-violent push, I was flung headlong to the bottom, where I lay helpless
-in absolute darkness.
-
-The air was damp and chill, and the place was infested with all manner
-of loathsome crawling things; I could hear them tick-ticking and
-scuffling along the floor and walls. Shortly after my entry some filthy
-thing touched my fingers, and I shook it off with a yell. It was a
-dread place, and drove all hope of saving my life clean out of me.
-
-How long I lay there I do not know; it was long enough, at any rate,
-for a sharp attack of fever to seize me and run its course. It racked
-my bones; I tossed and turned on the slimy floor, groaning aloud
-in my discomfort. The hot fever-blood throbbed in my head; my eyes
-and face burned, and my body became parched and dry. I moaned for
-water--oh, for one drop of cool water! At one time I thought I saw
-the door open and Mama enter and loose my bonds, but it was only a
-vision of my disordered brain. Finally I sank into unconsciousness. I
-awoke--drenched in a profuse perspiration--with men’s voices sounding
-round about me. A figure was standing over me holding a lamp--an
-earthenware, ewer-shaped vessel with a cotton dip--which gave a
-wavering yellow radiance and cast grim dancing shadows on the walls. I
-could see that the door was ajar, and a pale light was stealing into
-the horrible place from outside. Roughly I was dragged to my feet. I
-staggered a bit, but soon steadied myself, and--pushed, cursed, and
-beaten--I accompanied my captors up the steps and out into the light of
-day again, or, rather, of evening. One glorious breath of the upper air
-repaid me for all that I had suffered in that black hole of Kontogora.
-I did not care now if they were leading me out to kill me; I was not
-going to die like a rat in that horrible pit.
-
-As we emerged from the compound we were joined by a chattering,
-mocking, hostile crowd of men, women, and children. Every now and then
-one of the latter would strike me with a stick, my guards making no
-effort to protect me. At last we entered the Emir’s compound and I was
-taken into his presence. He was seated on a dais covered with mats and
-a leopard skin, and was talking in a low monotone to some men lying
-round about him on the floor of the chamber.
-
-The young blood that I had flung over the wall, and who was the cause
-of all my troubles, stepped out and told the King what I had done,
-asking leave to kill me then and there. Next, to my astonishment, Mama
-stepped out of the crowd and told the Emir plainly that he and I had
-come all the way from Illorin to serve him, and had intended craving
-his permission that morning had not my tormentor interfered and sought
-a quarrel with me, in which he had got thrown over the wall for his
-pains. Subsequently, through treachery, continued my faithful guide,
-my enemy had had me taken and flung into prison without the Emir’s
-knowledge.
-
-The Emir, who seemed a decent sort of old man, listened patiently
-to his two petitioners. Then, advising my enemy to calm himself, he
-told one of his retainers to question me. I thanked Heaven that the
-simpleness of my disguise and my grip of the Haussa tongue precluded
-any very great possibility of detection. The Emir, before my questioner
-started, informed the assembled crowd that, were I proved to be a rebel
-and a traitor, he would hand me over to my enemy to do what he wished
-with.
-
-My inquisitor was a type of the grovelling bully. He tried to put
-one or two posers to me, but got more than he expected in return;
-and I actually got a smile out of the Emir, which elicited the loud
-and flattering applause of the retainers, when I suggested that my
-questioner was behaving very like a traitor himself in trying to cast
-a slur on the character of one of the Emir’s most faithful subjects.
-I told that monarch that I had come all the way from Illorin to serve
-him, and this was the way I was being treated--dragged, beaten and
-bleeding, before him from a dungeon, and bound like a common slave.
-Suddenly the Emir asked me how many white men there were in Borgu;
-I told him about one hundred thousand, and more to come. He seemed
-greatly impressed, as well he might be. I then craved permission to
-enter his service, and he inquired if I could ride. I told him to try
-me. This he agreed to do. If I could ride and prove myself worthy of
-entering his service he said he would pardon my imprudence of yesterday
-and make me a member of his bodyguard.
-
-My bonds were cut, and as these fell from me the pain of the blood
-returning to my swollen, half-numbed hands was excruciating. I managed,
-however, to keep a brave face. We retired from the Emir’s presence
-and waited outside under a great shady tree, where, eventually, a
-fiercely-pawing stallion was brought up, and I was ordered to mount.
-This I did, the brute biting, kicking, and plunging all the time. I
-had to get into one of those horrible native saddles that box you
-up completely, fore and aft. Once mounted, I let the horse do as he
-pleased, and he led me a terrible dance, rearing and plunging about,
-dashing first to one side and then another. As he was in the midst
-of his attempts to buck me off, the Emir appeared and stood watching
-the tussle with interest. As a matter of fact, the horse had not much
-chance when once I was on his back, for I had had a great deal of
-experience of the Haussa beast, and knew his ways. He soon grew tired,
-and within half an hour was quite submissive. I used no stick, but just
-sat quietly in the saddle. To my surprise and delight the Emir told
-me that the horse was mine, and that I was to come to see him on the
-morrow, about noon. I thanked him gratefully and rode off, Mama walking
-by my stirrup.
-
-After a consultation we agreed that it would be dangerous to remain
-in the town any longer, as our enemies were bound to try to get the
-better of us, sooner or later. We therefore arranged that Mama should
-leave the town at once, and make for Boussa as best he could, on foot;
-I would leave that night. We then parted, and I was left alone in the
-midst of the enemy.
-
-At sundown I rode through the south gate, but was immediately stopped
-by the guard. I told them that I came by order of the Emir, but they
-demanded proof. This was distinctly awkward, for, of course, I had no
-proof to give. I therefore resolved upon a bold stroke. I requested
-the chief to ride with me, telling him I would give him in confidence
-all the proof he would require. Unsuspectingly he rode up alongside.
-Leaning over towards him, I suddenly gripped him by the throat with
-both hands, at the same time ramming my heels into my horse’s sides.
-The startled animal leapt forward, wrenching my opponent from the
-saddle with a jerk, and I swung him across my horse’s withers, where I
-held him--my right hand on his throat, my left gripping his left knee,
-bending him backwards like a bow. In this fashion we flew along the
-path by which two days before I had entered the robber city on foot.
-
-A howl of execration and a clatter of hoofs followed us, and a shower
-of arrows and spears fell harmlessly on either side of me. When we had
-gone about a quarter of a mile I slid my hapless prisoner off on to his
-head, intending to stun him. My horse, feeling the relief, went away at
-renewed speed, and I had no difficulty in outdistancing my pursuers,
-especially as they stopped to see to their unconscious chief. I met one
-party of traders coming into the town, but they stood aside to let me
-thunder past, not doubting that I was an emissary of the Emir on some
-urgent business. The moon was just rising as I topped a low ridge, and
-all the world was soon bathed in a soft and silvery veil of light.
-Kontogora was far behind in the plain, the thousand conical roofs away
-in the distance looking strangely unreal.
-
-As I drew near the five mile radius I began to wonder how I was going
-to get through the line of scouts. Capture now would mean death in
-some horrible form or other; at all costs I must not be taken alive.
-Suddenly I heard a shout far away on my right, and in the dim light
-saw a body of horsemen coming my way. Touching my mount with my
-heels I again gave him his head, and he flew like the wind, with
-ever-increasing speed. The pace was terrific and absolutely foolhardy
-in that light, although the road was fairly good. I expected every
-moment to be pitched head foremost to the ground, but the surefooted
-beast kept on without a stumble. The shouts and thunder of hoofs behind
-grew fainter and fainter, until at last, to my infinite relief, they
-entirely died away. Still, however, I kept on. Here and there, when
-the road passed through a village or beside a farm, frightened figures
-would slink away into the shadows and a startled cur would burst into
-a violent fit of barking, as I clattered by on my panting steed, now
-reeking and white with sweat.
-
-[Illustration: “IN THIS FASHION WE FLEW ALONG THE PATH.”]
-
-I rode fast all through the night, my horse showing splendid spirit
-and pluck, and at sunrise halted on the banks of a river. Leaving my
-hard-ridden beast to cool a little first, I then watered him and,
-cutting some guinea-corn stalks from a patch near by, gave him a good
-feed, munching some myself at the same time and quenching my thirst at
-the river. Then, after about two hours’ rest, I proceeded, but at a
-lesser speed.
-
-I rode all that day and well into the night, finally resting by the
-pool where I had cooled my heated brow on the way to Kontogora. After
-some hours’ halt I pushed on again, obtaining food at farmhouses
-on the way, and next evening, utterly weary, arrived at the Niger
-opposite Boussa. My journey was over; I was safe at last! Arriving at
-my quarters in the Niger Company’s compound, I flung myself down on my
-camp bed just as I was and slept for sixteen hours.
-
-The faithful Mama turned up four days later. He went to Yauri, a
-friendly State, coming down river by canoe. For his services I
-presented him with the Emir of Kontogora’s horse.
-
-During all the years that have gone by since my secret trip to
-Kontogora and my subsequent escape I have never regretted having run
-the double risk of disobeying orders on the one hand and risking my
-life on the other. I had been instructed to get news and I got it--not
-the idle tales of paid spies, but a record of sights seen and things
-heard with my own eyes and ears.
-
-[Illustration]
-
-
-
-
-_A Voyage on an Ice-Floe._
-
-BY DR. WILFRED T. GRENFELL, C.M.G.
-
-
- Dr. Grenfell may be described as the “Good Angel of Labrador,”
- having for years devoted himself to ministering to the hardy
- toilers who live in that grim land of snow, ice, and fog. In
- this enthralling story he describes how, while on an errand of
- mercy, he and his dog-team got adrift in the open sea on a tiny
- cake of ice; how he killed three of the dogs to provide himself
- with warm clothing; how he made a flagstaff out of their bones;
- and how he was finally rescued when hope was well-nigh dead.
-
-
-It was Easter Sunday, but still winter with us, and everything was
-covered with snow and ice. Immediately after morning service word
-came from our hospital to say that messengers with a large team of
-dogs had come from sixty miles to the southward to get a doctor for a
-very urgent case--that of a young man on whom we had operated about a
-fortnight before for an acute bone disease in the thigh.
-
-[Illustration: THE AUTHOR, DR. WILFRED T. GRENFELL, C.M.G.
-
-_From a Photo. by De Youngs, New York._]
-
-There was obviously no time to be lost, so, having packed up the
-necessary instruments, dressings, and drugs, and fitted out the sleigh
-with my best dogs, I left at once, the messengers following me with
-their own team.
-
-Late in April there is always a risk of getting wet through on the ice,
-so that I was prepared with a spare outfit, which included, besides a
-change of garments, snow-shoes, rifle, compass, an axe, and oilskin
-over clothes.
-
-My dogs, being a powerful team, would not be held back, and though I
-managed to wait twice for the other sleigh I had reached a village
-about twenty miles on the journey before nightfall, had fed the dogs,
-and was gathering one or two people for prayers, when they caught me up.
-
-During the night the wind shifted to the north-east. This brought in
-fog and rain, softened the snow, and made travelling very bad, besides
-sending a heavy sea into the bay. Our drive next morning would be
-somewhat over forty miles--the first ten miles across a wide arm of the
-sea, on salt-water ice.
-
-In order not to be separated too long from my friends, I sent them
-ahead two hours before me, appointing a rendezvous at a log shanty we
-had built in the woods for a half-way house. There is no one living
-along all that lengthy coast-line, and so, in case of accident, we keep
-dry clothes, food, and drugs at the hut.
-
-The first rain of the year was falling when I left, and I was obliged
-to keep on what we call the “ballicaters,” or ice barricades, much
-farther up the bay than I had expected. The sea of the night before had
-smashed up the ponderous covering of ice right to the land-wash, and
-great gaping chasms between the enormous blocks, which we call “pans,”
-made it impossible to get off. As soon as I topped the first hill
-outside the village I could see that half a mile out it was all clear
-water.
-
-An island which lies off about three miles in the bay had preserved a
-bridge of ice, however, and by crossing a few cracks I managed to reach
-this island. The arm of the bay beyond this point is only about four
-miles straight across. This would bring me to a rocky promontory and
-would save some miles on the round. As far as the eye could see the ice
-seemed good, though it was very rough. Obviously it had been smashed up
-by the sea, and packed in again by the strong wind from the north-east,
-but I judged it had frozen solid together again.
-
-I set off to cross this stretch, and all went well till I was about a
-quarter of a mile from the landing-point. Then the wind suddenly fell,
-and I noticed I was travelling over loose “sish” ice, almost of the
-consistency of porridge; by stabbing down, I could drive my whip-handle
-clean through it. This “sish” ice consists of the tiny fragments made
-by large pans pounding together on the heaving sea.
-
-So strongly did the breeze now come off-shore, and so quickly did
-the packed mass, relieved of the wind pressure, begin to scatter,
-that already I could not see one floe larger than ten feet square. I
-realized at once that retreat was absolutely impossible; the only thing
-to be done was to make a dash for it and try to reach the shore.
-
-There was not a moment to lose, so I tore off my oilskins, threw myself
-out on my hands and knees by the side of the _komatik_ to give a larger
-base to hold, and shouted to the dogs to go ahead.
-
-Before we had gone twenty yards, the animals, divining their peril,
-hesitated for a moment, and the _komatik_ instantly sank into the
-slush. It then became necessary for the dogs to pull, and they promptly
-began to sink in also. Earlier in the season the father of the very man
-I was going to operate on had been drowned by his dogs tangling their
-traces around him in the “slob.” This unpleasant fact now flashed into
-my mind, and I managed to loosen my sheath-knife, scramble forward,
-find the traces in the water, and cut them, meanwhile taking a turn
-with the leader’s trace around my wrist.
-
-There was a pan of ice some twenty-five yards away, about the size of a
-dining-table, and on to this the leader very shortly climbed. The other
-dogs, however, were hopelessly bogged in the slushy ice and water.
-
-[Illustration: “ONE OF THE DOGS GOT ON TO MY SHOULDERS, PUSHING ME
-FARTHER DOWN IN THE ICE.”]
-
-Gradually I hauled myself along the leader’s line towards the pan,
-till he suddenly turned round and slipped out of his harness. It was
-impossible to make any progress through the “sish” ice by swimming, so
-I lay there helplessly, thinking it would soon be over, and wondering
-if anyone would ever know how the tragedy happened. Suddenly I saw the
-trace of another big dog, who had himself fallen through just before
-he reached the pan. Along this I hauled myself, using the animal as a
-bow anchor, but much bothered by the other dogs, one of which, in his
-struggle for life, got on to my shoulders, pushing me farther down in
-the ice. Presently, however, I passed my living anchor, and soon, with
-my dogs around me, I lay on the little piece of ice. I had to help the
-dogs on to it, though they were able to work their way to me through
-the lane of water that I had made.
-
-We were safe for the moment, yet it was obvious that we must be drowned
-before long if we remained on this little fragment, so, taking off my
-moccasins, coat, gloves, and cap, and everything that I could spare, I
-tied my knife and moccasins separately on to the backs of the dogs. My
-only hope of life seemed to be to get ashore at once. Had I been able
-to divine the long drift before me, I might have saved, in the same way
-as I saved my knife, a small bag of food. The moccasins, made of tanned
-sealskin, came right up to my thigh, and, as they were filled with
-water, I thought they accounted for my being able to make no progress.
-
-Taking the long traces from all the dogs but the two lightest, I gave
-them the full length of the lines, tied the near ends around my own
-wrists, and tried to make the animals go ahead. Nothing would induce
-them to move, however, and though I threw them off the pan two or
-three times, they always struggled back on to it. Fortunately, I had
-with me a small black spaniel, a featherweight, with large furry paws,
-something like snow-shoes, who will retrieve for me. I threw a piece
-of ice for him, and he managed to get over the “slob” after it, on to
-another pan about twenty yards away. The other dogs followed him and
-after much painful struggling all of them got on but one.
-
-Taking all the run I could get on my little pan, I made a rush,
-slithering with the impetus along the surface till once more I sank
-through. After a tough fight I was able to haul myself by the long
-traces on to this new pan. I had taken care this time to tie the
-harnesses, to which I was holding, under the dogs’ bellies, so that
-they could not slip them off. But the pan I was now on was still not
-enough to bear us, and so this exhausting process had to be repeated
-immediately to avoid sinking with it.
-
-I now realized, much to my dismay, that though we had been working
-towards the land we had been losing ground all the time, for the
-off-shore wind had now driven us a hundred yards farther out. The
-widening gap was full of pounded ice, which rose to the surface as the
-pressure lessened. Through this no man could possibly make his way.
-
-I was now resting on a floe about ten feet by twenty, which, when I
-came to examine it, was not ice at all, but simply snow-covered “slob,”
-frozen into a mass, and which I feared would very soon break up in the
-general turmoil and the heavy sea, which was continually increasing as
-the ice drove offshore before the wind.
-
-At first we drifted in the direction of a rocky point on which a heavy
-surf was breaking, and I made up my mind, if there was clear water in
-the surf, to try to swim for the land. But suddenly we struck a rock,
-a large piece broke off the already small pan, and what was left swung
-around in the backwash and went right off to sea. I saw then that my
-pan was about a foot thick.
-
-There was nothing now for it but to hope for rescue. Alas! there was no
-possibility of being seen by human eyes. As I have already mentioned,
-no one lives round this big bay. It was just possible, however, that
-the people on the other _komatik_, knowing I was alone and had failed
-to keep my tryst, would, perhaps, come back to look for me. This,
-however, they did not do.
-
-Meanwhile the westerly wind--our coldest wind at this time of the
-year--was rising rapidly. It was very tantalizing, as I stood there
-with next to nothing on, the wind going through me, and every stitch
-soaked in ice-water, to see my _komatik_ some fifty yards away. It was
-still above water, packed with food, hot tea in a Thermos bottle, dry
-clothing, matches, wood, and everything for making a fire to attract
-attention, if I should drive out far enough for someone to see me--and
-yet it was quite beyond my reach.
-
-It is easy to see a black object on the ice in the day-time, for its
-gorgeous whiteness shows off the least thing. But, alas! the tops of
-bushes and large pieces of kelp have so often deceived those looking
-out that the watcher hesitates a long time before he takes action.
-Moreover, within our memory no man has ever been thus adrift on the bay
-ice. The chances were one in a thousand that I would be seen at all,
-and, even if I were, I should probably be mistaken for a fragment of
-driftwood or kelp.
-
-To keep from freezing I took my long moccasins, strung out some line,
-split the legs, and made a kind of jacket, which preserved my back from
-the wind down as far as the waist.
-
-I had not drifted more than half a mile before I saw my poor _komatik_
-disappear through the ice, which was every minute loosening up into
-small pans. The loss of the sledge seemed like that of a friend, and
-one more tie with home and safety lost.
-
-By midday I had passed the island and was moving out into the
-ever-widening bay. It was scarcely safe to stir on the pan for fear of
-breaking it, and yet I saw I must have the skins of some of my dogs--of
-which there were eight on the pan--if I was to live the night out.
-There was now from three to five miles of ice between me and the north
-side of the bay, so I could plainly see there was no hope of being
-picked up that day, even if seen, for no boat could get out.
-
-Unwinding the sealskin traces from my waist, around which I had them
-coiled to keep the dogs from eating them, I made a slip-knot and passed
-it over the first dog’s head, tied it round my foot close to its neck,
-threw him on his back, and stabbed him to the heart. Poor beast! I
-loved him like a friend, but we could not all hope to live. In fact, at
-that time I had no hope that any of us would, but it seemed better to
-die fighting.
-
-In the same way I sacrificed two more large dogs, receiving a couple of
-bites in the process, though I fully expected that the pan would break
-up in the struggle. A short shrift seemed to me better than a long
-one, and I envied the dead dogs, whose troubles were over so quickly.
-Indeed, I began to debate in my mind whether, if once I passed into
-the open sea, it would not be better by far to use my faithful knife
-on myself than to die by inches. There seemed no horror whatever in
-the thought; I seemed fully to sympathize with the Japanese view of
-_hara-kiri_. Working, however, saved me from dangerous philosophizing.
-By the time I had skinned the dogs and strung the skins together with
-some rope unravelled from the harnesses I was ten miles on my way and
-it was already getting dark.
-
-Away to the northward I could now see a single light in the little
-village where I had slept the night before. One could not help
-picturing them sitting down to tea, little thinking that there was
-anyone watching them, for I had told them not to expect me back for
-four days. I could also see the peaceful little school-house on the
-hill, where many times I had gathered the people for prayer.
-
-[Illustration: THE AUTHOR’S DOG TEAM.
-
-_From a Photograph._]
-
-I had now frayed out some rope into oakum and mixed it with some fat
-from the intestines of my dogs, with the idea of making a flare. But
-I discovered that my match-box, which was always chained to me, had
-leaked, and my precious matches were in pulp. Had I been able to make
-a light, it would have looked so unearthly out there on the ice that I
-felt sure they would have seen me. However, I kept the matches, hoping
-that I might be able to dry them if I lived through the night. While
-working at the dead dogs, about every five minutes I would stand up and
-wave my hands towards the land. I had no flag and I could not spare my
-shirt, for, wet as it was, it was better than nothing in that freezing
-wind, and, anyhow, it was nearly dark.
-
-Unfortunately, the coves in among the cliffs are so placed that only
-for a very narrow space can the people in any house see the sea.
-Indeed, most of them cannot see the sea at all, so that whether it was
-possible for anyone to see me I could not tell, even supposing it had
-been daylight.
-
-Not daring to take any snow from the surface of my pan to break the
-wind with, I piled up the carcasses of the dogs. Moreover, I could now
-sit down on the skin rug without finding myself in a pool of water,
-thawed out by my own heat. During these hours I had continually taken
-off all my things, wrung them out, swung them in the wind, and put on
-first one and then the other inside, hoping that what heat there was
-in my body would thus serve to dry them. In this I had been fairly
-successful.
-
-My feet were the most trouble, for they immediately got wet again on
-account of my thin moccasins being easily soaked through on the snow. I
-suddenly thought of the way in which the Lapps, who tend our reindeer,
-manage to dry socks. They carry grass with them, which they ravel up
-and put into the shoe. Into this they put their feet, and then pack the
-rest with more grass, tying up the top with a binder. The ropes of the
-harness for our dogs are carefully “served” all over with two layers
-of flannel, in order to make them soft against the animal’s sides. So,
-as soon as I could sit down, I started with my trusty knife to rip up
-the flannel. Though my fingers were more or less frozen, I was able to
-ravel out the rope, put it into my shoes, and use my wet socks inside
-my knicker-bockers, where, though damp, they served to break the wind.
-Then, tying the narrow strips of flannel together, I bound up the tops
-of the moccasins, Lapp fashion, and carried the bandage on up over my
-knee, making a ragged though most excellent puttee.
-
-In order to run easily and fast with our dogs in the spring of the
-year, when the weather is usually warm, we wear very light clothing;
-thus we do not perspire at midday and freeze at night. It chanced
-that I had recently opened a box of football garments which I had not
-seen for twenty years. I had found my old Oxford University running
-“shorts,” and a pair of Richmond Football Club stockings of red,
-yellow, and black, exactly as I wore them twenty years ago. These,
-with a flannel shirt and sweater, were all I now had left. Coat, hat,
-gloves, oilskins--everything else--were gone, and I stood there in
-that odd costume exactly as I stood in the old days on a football
-field. These garments, being very light, dried all the quicker until
-afternoon; then nothing would dry any more, everything freezing stiff.
-
-My occupation till what seemed like midnight was unravelling rope, and
-with this I padded out my knickers inside and my shirt as well, though
-it was a clumsy job, for I could not see what I was doing. Now, getting
-my largest dog, as big as a wolf and weighing ninety-two pounds, I made
-him lie down in order that I could cuddle around him. I then piled the
-three skins so that I could lie on one edge, while the other came just
-over my shoulders and head.
-
-My own breath, collecting inside the newly-flayed skin, must have had
-a soporific effect, for I was soon fast asleep. One hand I had plunged
-down inside the curled-up dog, but the other hand, being gloveless, had
-frozen, and I suddenly woke, shivering enough, I thought, to break my
-pan. What I took to be the sun was just rising, but I soon found it was
-the moon, and then I knew it was about half past twelve. The dog was
-having an excellent time; he had not been cuddled up so warmly all the
-winter. He resented my moving with low growls, till he found it wasn’t
-another dog.
-
-The wind was steadily driving me now towards the open sea, where, short
-of a miracle, I could expect nothing but death.
-
-Still I had only this hope--that my pan would probably be opposite
-another village, called Goose Cove, at daylight, and might possibly
-be seen from there. I knew that the _komatiks_ would be starting at
-daybreak over the hills for a parade of Orangemen about twenty miles
-away. I might, therefore, be seen as they climbed the hills, though the
-cove does not open seaward. So I lay down and went to sleep again.
-
-I woke some time later with a sudden thought in my mind that I must
-have a flag to signal with. So I set to work at once in the dark to
-disarticulate the legs of my dead dogs, which were now frozen stiff,
-and seemed to offer the only chance of forming a pole to carry a flag.
-
-Cold as it was, I determined to sacrifice my shirt for that purpose
-with the first streak of daylight. It took a long time in the dark to
-get the legs off, and when I had patiently marled them together with
-old harness rope they formed the heaviest and crookedest flag-post it
-has ever been my lot to see. Still it had the advantage of not being so
-cold to hold, because the skin on the paws made it unnecessary to hold
-the frozen meat with my bare hands.
-
-What had awakened me this time, I found, was that the pan had swung
-around and the shelter made by my dogs’ bodies was on the wrong side,
-for, though there was a very light air, the evaporation it caused
-from my wet clothes made quite a difference. I had had no food since
-six o’clock the morning before, when I had porridge and bread and
-butter. I had, however, a rubber band on instead of one of my garters,
-and I chewed that for twenty-four hours. It saved me from thirst and
-hunger, oddly enough. I did not drink from the ice of my pan, for it
-was salt-water snow and ice. Moreover, in the night the salt water had
-lapped up over the edges, for the pan was on a level with the sea. From
-time to time I heard the cracking and grinding of the newly formed
-“slob,” and it seemed that my little floe must inevitably soon go to
-pieces.
-
-At last the sun really did rise, and the time came for the sacrifice
-of my shirt. I stripped, and, much to my surprise and pleasure, did
-not find it was half so cold as I had anticipated. I now reformed my
-dog-skins, with the raw side out, so that they made a kind of coat,
-quite rivalling Joseph’s. But with the rising of the sun the frost
-came out of the joints of my dogs’ legs, and the friction--caused, I
-suppose, by waving it--made my flag-pole almost tie itself in knots.
-Still, I could raise it three or four feet above my head, which seemed
-very important.
-
-Now, however, I found that, instead of having drifted as far as I had
-reckoned, I was only off some cliffs called Ireland Head, near which
-there is a little village looking seaward, whence I should certainly
-have been seen had the time been summer. But as I had myself, earlier
-in the season, been night-bound at the place, I had learnt there was
-not a single soul living there in the winter. The people had all, as
-usual, migrated to their winter houses up the bay, where they get
-together for schooling and social purposes.
-
-It was impossible to wave so heavy a flag as mine all the time, and
-yet I dared not sit down, for that might be the exact moment someone
-would be in a position to see me from the hills. The only thing in my
-mind was how long I could stand up, and how long go on waving that pole
-at the cliffs. Once or twice I thought I saw men against their snowy
-faces, which I judged were about five or six miles from me. In reality,
-however, all the time I knew in my heart of hearts that the black
-specks were only trees. Once, also, I thought I saw a boat approaching.
-A glittering object kept appearing and disappearing on the water, but
-it was merely a small piece of ice sparkling in the sun as it rose on
-the surface.
-
-Physically I felt as well as ever I did in my life, and with the hope
-of a long sunny day I felt sure I was good to last another twenty-four
-hours if my ice-raft would only hold out. I determined to kill a big
-Eskimo dog I had at midday and drink his blood (only a few days before
-I had been reading an account of the sustaining properties of dogs’
-blood in Dr. Nansen’s book) if I survived the battle with him.
-
-I could not help feeling, even then, my ludicrous position, and I
-thought if I ever got ashore again I would have to laugh at myself
-standing hour after hour waving my shirt at those lofty cliffs, which
-seemed to assume a kind of sardonic grin, so that I could almost
-imagine they were laughing at me. I thought of the good breakfast my
-colleagues were enjoying just at the back of those same cliffs, and of
-the snug fire and comfortable room which we call our study.
-
-I can honestly say that from first to last not a single sensation
-of fear entered my mind, even when struggling in the “slob” ice. It
-all seemed so natural; I had been through the ice half-a-dozen times
-before. Now I merely felt sleepy, and the idea was very strong in my
-mind that I should soon reach the solution of the mysteries that I had
-been preaching about for so many years.
-
-It was a perfect morning, a cobalt sky and an ultramarine sea, a golden
-sun, and an almost wasteful extravagance of crimson pouring over hills
-of purest snow, which caught and reflected its glories from every peak
-and crag. Between me and their feet lay miles of rough ice, bordered
-with the black “slob” formed during the night. Lastly, there was my
-poor little pan in the fore-ground, bobbing up and down on the edge
-of the open sea, stained with blood, and littered with carcasses and
-_débris_. It was smaller than last night; the edges, beating against
-the new ice around, had heaped themselves up in fragments that, owing
-to its diminutive size, it could ill spare. I also noticed that the new
-ice from the water melted under the dogs’ bodies had also been formed
-at the expense of its thickness. Five dogs and myself in a coloured
-football costume and a blood-smeared dog-skin cloak, with a grey
-flannel shirt on a pole of frozen dogs’ legs, completed the picture.
-
-The sun was almost hot by now, and I was conscious of a surplus of heat
-in my skin cloak. I began to look longingly at one of my remaining
-dogs, for an appetite will rise even on an ice pan. The idea of eating
-made me think of fire, so once again I inspected my matches. Alas! the
-heads had entirely soaked off them all, except three or four blue-top
-wax matches which were in a paste. These I now laid out to dry, and
-I searched around on my snow pan to see if I could get a bit of
-transparent ice with which to make a burning-glass, for I was pretty
-sure that, with all the unravelled tow stuffed into my nether garments
-and the fat of the dead dogs, I could make smoke enough to be seen if I
-could only get a light.
-
-I had found a piece which it seemed might answer the purpose, and
-had gone back to wave my flag, which I did every two minutes, when
-suddenly, for the second time, I thought I saw the glitter of an oar.
-It did not seem possible, however, for it must be remembered that it
-was not water that lay between me and the land, but “slob” ice, which,
-a mile or two inshore of me, was very heavy. Even if people had seen
-me, I did not think they could get through, though I knew all of them
-would be trying. Moreover, there was no smoke rising on the land to
-give me hope that I had been seen. There had been no gun flashes in the
-night, and I felt sure that, had anyone seen me, there would have been
-a bonfire on every hill to encourage me to keep going. So I gave it up
-and went on with my work. But the next time I went back to my flag it
-seemed very distinct, and though it kept disappearing as we rose and
-fell on the surface, my readers can well imagine I kept my eyes in that
-direction. Through my dark spectacles having been lost, however, I was
-already partly snow-blind.
-
-I waved the flag as high as I could raise it in a direction to be
-broadside towards those places where I thought people might have gone
-out around the ice after ducks, which is their main occupation a little
-later in the year. I hoped that they might then see my flag and come
-straight on for me. At last, beside the glitter of a white oar, I made
-out the black speck of a hull. I knew then if the pan held out for
-another hour that I should be all right.
-
-With that strange perversity of the human intellect, the first thing I
-thought of when I realized that a rescue boat was under way was what
-trophies I could carry with my luggage from the pan! I pictured the
-dog-bone flagstaff adorning my study--the dogs intervened, however, and
-ate it later on--and I thought of preserving my ragged puttees in my
-museum.
-
-I could see that my rescuers were frantically waving, and when they
-came within shouting distance I heard someone shout, “Don’t get
-excited; keep on the pan, where you are.” As a matter of fact, they
-were infinitely more excited than I. Already it seemed just as natural
-to me now to be saved as half an hour before it seemed inevitable that
-I should be lost. Had my rescuers only known, as I did, the sensations
-of a bath in the ice when you cannot dry yourself afterwards, they need
-not have expected me to throw myself into the water.
-
-At last the boat came up, crashing into my pan with such violence
-that I was glad enough to catch hold of the bow, being more or less
-acquainted by now with the frail constitution of my floe, and being
-well aware it was not adapted for collisions. Moreover, I felt for the
-pan, for it had been a good and faithful friend to me.
-
-A hearty handshake all round and a warm cup of tea--thoughtfully packed
-in a kettle--inside, and we hoisted in my remaining dogs and instantly
-started back, for even then a change of wind might have penned the boat
-with ice, which would have cost us dearly. Indeed, the men thought we
-could not return, and we started for an island, in which direction the
-way was all open.
-
-[Illustration: “I COULD SEE THAT MY RESCUERS WERE FRANTICALLY WAVING.”]
-
-There were not only five Newfoundland fishermen at the oars, but five
-men with Newfoundland muscles in their backs and arms and five as brave
-hearts as ever beat in the bodies of human beings. So we presently
-changed our course and forced our way through to the shore.
-
-To my intense astonishment they told me that the night before four
-men had been out on a point of land, from which the bay is visible,
-cutting some dead harp seals out from a store. The ice had been
-extraordinarily hard, and it had taken them till seven o’clock at night
-to cut out twenty-four seals. Just at the very moment before they left
-for home, my pan of ice had drifted out clear of the island called
-Hare Island, and one of them, with his keen fisherman’s eyes, had seen
-something unusual. They at once returned to their village, saying there
-was a man on a pan, but they had been discredited, for the people there
-thought it could only be the top of some tree.
-
-All the time I had been driving along I knew well that there was one
-man on the coast who had a good spy-glass, and that he had twelve
-children, among them some of the hardiest young men on the coast. Many
-times my thoughts had wandered to him, for his sons are everywhere,
-hunting seals and everything else. It was his sons, and another man
-with them, who saw me, and were now with him in the boat. The owner
-of the spy-glass told me he got up instantly in the middle of tea on
-hearing the news, and hurried over the cliff to the look-out with his
-glass. Immediately, dark as it was, he made out that there really was
-a man out on the ice. Indeed, he saw me wave my hands every now and
-again towards the shore. By a process of reasoning very easy on so
-unfrequented a shore, they immediately knew who it was, but tried to
-argue themselves out of their conviction. They went down at once to
-try and launch a boat, but found it absolutely impossible. Miles of
-ice lay between them and me, the heavy sea was hurling great blocks on
-the land-wash, and night was already falling, with the wind blowing
-hard on shore. These brave fellows, however, did not sit down idly.
-The whole village was aroused, messengers dispatched at once along the
-coast, and look-outs told off to all the favourable points, so that
-while I considered myself a laughing-stock, waving my flag at those
-irresponsive cliffs, there were really men’s eyes watching from them
-all the time.
-
-Every soul in the village was on the beach as we neared the shore,
-and everybody wanted to shake hands when I landed. Even with the grip
-that one after another gave me, some no longer trying to keep back
-the tears, I did not find out that my hands were frost-bitten--a fact
-I have not been slow to appreciate since. A weird sight I must have
-looked as I stepped ashore--tied up in rags stuffed out with oakum,
-wrapped in the blood-stained skins of dogs, with no hat, coat, or
-gloves, and only a short pair of knickers on! It must have seemed to
-some of them as if the Old Man of the Sea had landed.
-
-No time was wasted before a pot of tea was exactly where I wanted it to
-be, and some hot stew was locating itself where I had intended an hour
-before that the blood of one of my remaining dogs should have gone.
-
-Rigged out in the warm garments that fishermen wear, I started with a
-large team as hard as I could race for hospital, for I had learnt that
-the news had gone over that I was lost. It was soon painfully impressed
-upon me that I could not much enjoy the ride; I had to be hauled like a
-log up the hills, my feet being frost-bitten so that I could not walk.
-Had I guessed this before I might have avoided much trouble.
-
-We all love life, and I was glad to be back once more with a new
-lease of it before me. My colleague soon had me “fixed up,” and I was
-presently enjoying a really refreshing sleep.
-
-[Illustration: THE AUTHOR AS HE APPEARED AFTER HIS TERRIBLE EXPERIENCE
-ON THE ICE FLOE, SHOWING THE FLAG-STAFF MADE OF DOGS’ BONES.
-
-_From a Photograph._]
-
-(Copyright, 1908, by Fleming H. Revell Company.)
-
-
-
-
-THE WIDE WORLD: In Other Magazines.
-
-
-UNIQUE POST-OFFICE IN NEBRASKA.
-
-[Illustration]
-
-Some years ago, a traveller recounting his experiences of the early
-days of the city of Nebraska, U.S.A., says that on arriving at the odd
-collection of shanties that then represented the beginnings of the
-city, he inquired for the post-office, and was referred to an old chap
-sitting on a log. Of this man he further inquired where he could find
-the post-office, as he expected a letter. The old chap removed his
-sombrero, and, fumbling inside it, produced the expected letter. Since
-then Nebraska has grown into considerable importance as the capital of
-the State of Nebraska.--“THE CAPTAIN.”
-
-
-CURIOUS FISHING SUPERSTITIONS.
-
-In British Columbia the Indians ceremoniously go out to meet the
-first salmon, and in flattering voices try to win their favour by
-calling them all chiefs. Every spring in California the Karaks used
-to dance for salmon. Meanwhile one of their number secluded himself
-in the mountains and fasted for ten days. Upon his return he solemnly
-approached the river, took the first salmon of the catch, ate some
-of it, and with the remainder lighted a sacrificial fire. The same
-Indians laboriously climbed to the mountain-top after the poles for
-the spearing-booth, being convinced that if they were gathered where
-the salmon were watching no fish would be caught. In Japan, among
-the primitive race of the Ainos, even the women left at home are not
-allowed to talk, lest the fish may hear and disapprove, while the first
-fish is always brought in through a window instead of a door, so that
-other fish may not see.--“TIT-BITS.”
-
-
-FLEMISH FISHERWOMEN.
-
-On the coasts of Holland, Belgium, and Northern France fisherwomen
-are a familiar sight, with their great hand-nets and quaint costumes.
-Many of the towns have distinctive costumes by which their women
-can be recognised anywhere. Those of Maria-Kirke, near Ostend, wear
-trousers and loose blouses, while their heads and shoulders are covered
-by shawls. They carry their nets into the sea, and scoop up vast
-quantities of shrimps and prawns, with an occasional crab or lobster
-and many small fish. They often wade out till the water is up to their
-necks, and they remain for hours at a time in water above their knees,
-rarely returning until their baskets are full.--“WOMAN’S LIFE.”
-
-
-CANADA FOR THE SPORTSMAN.
-
-Canada is an ideal country for the sportsman. Notwithstanding its rapid
-commercial development, it still has thousands of miles of wild and
-unexplored land, where man has seldom or never trodden. Even in the
-Eastern provinces, within a very short distance of civilization, wild
-animals of many kinds--moose, caribou, elk, deer, and even bears--still
-abound. From the Atlantic coast to the Pacific slope, from the
-international boundary line north to the Arctic circle, Canada offers
-magnificent opportunities to the sportsman, whatever his tastes may
-be; big and small game-shooting, fishing, camping, canoeing.--“FRY’S
-MAGAZINE.”
-
-
-THE GEESE OF NIEDER-MÖRLEN.
-
-In the little Hessean village of Nieder-Mörlen, between Giessen and
-Frankfort, a strange scene may be witnessed every evening at half-past
-five. Some two thousand geese, which have spent the day on the river’s
-bank below the village, at a given signal from their leaders make their
-way homewards with much pomp and circumstance and raucous noise. The
-strangest part of the proceeding is seen when they reach the village
-street and, without any guidance or driving, waddle each into its
-own yard for the night. Like so many squads they break off in their
-dozens from the main body, knowing instinctively their owners’ door,
-and with solemn gait enter in as though conscious of their own innate
-cleverness.--Mr. A.H. Ross, in “THE STRAND MAGAZINE.”
-
-[Illustration]
-
-
-
-
-Odds and Ends.
-
-A Wonderful Balanced Rock--What a Lightning Flash Did--The Sea
-Captain’s House, etc.
-
-
-Near Dome Rock, Colorado, thirty-two miles up Platte Canyon from
-Denver, is situated one of the most wonderful balanced rocks in the
-world. This rock, as will be seen from the illustration, is poised
-with very little of its surface touching the ground. The most peculiar
-feature about the boulder is the fact that it does not rest on a flat
-surface of soft earth, but is perched out on an incline with a very
-steep angle. The slope on which it stands, moreover, is of smooth,
-solid rock, too slippery for anyone to walk up, and how the boulder
-maintains its position is a mystery.
-
-[Illustration: A WONDERFUL BALANCED ROCK--IT IS PERCHED ON A STEEP
-SLOPE OF SMOOTH, SLIPPERY ROCK, AND HOW IT MAINTAINS ITS POSITION IS A
-MYSTERY.
-
-_From a Photo. by J. R. Bauer._]
-
-Church bells and church plate, as related in a recent WIDE WORLD
-article, are not the only kinds of buried treasure of which there are
-traditions in Worcestershire. Mr. J.W. Willis Bund, in his “Civil War
-in Worcestershire,” says: “There is hardly a family who possessed a
-landed estate at the time of the Civil War that has not some legend
-of concealed treasure. For instance, the Berkeleys, of Spetchley,
-say their butler, to save the family plate, hid it under one of the
-elms in the avenue. The butler was wounded, and tried with his last
-breath to confide his secret to a member of the family, but could get
-no further than ’plate,’ ‘elm,’ ‘avenue,’ and died; so that the plate
-remains hidden to this day.” The occasion upon which the Berkeley
-plate was hidden was the sack and burning of their family mansion
-at Spetchley, upon the eve of the Battle of Worcester, by the Scots
-troops who accompanied Charles II. from the North. Sir Robert Berkeley
-was a devoted Royalist and had suffered much for the King, and members
-of his family were serving in the Royal army; but the Scots, who had
-fought upon both sides, were not careful to distinguish between friend
-and foe. The only portion of Spetchley which escaped the flames was
-the stabling. Here Cromwell made his head-quarters, and after the war
-Judge Berkeley converted the building into a house and lived there
-for many years. The elm avenue in Spetchley Park, where the plate was
-buried, still exists, and is one of the finest in Worcestershire. For
-the photograph given above we are indebted to the courtesy of Mr. T.
-Duckworth, of the Worcester Victoria Institute.
-
-[Illustration: THE ELM AVENUE IN SPETCHLEY PARK, WORCESTERSHIRE--A
-FAITHFUL BUTLER, AT THE TIME OF THE CIVIL WAR, BURIED THE FAMILY PLATE
-UNDER ONE OF THE TREES TO SAVE IT FROM THE ENEMY, BUT DIED BEFORE HE
-COULD REVEAL THE SECRET OF THE HIDING-PLACE.
-
-_From a Photograph._]
-
-The curious little building seen in the next photograph stands at the
-end of a private walk on the shores of the River Orwell, in Suffolk.
-It is known as the “Cat House,” for the reason that, in the “good old
-times,” a white cat used to be exhibited at a window visible from the
-river as a signal to smugglers, who flourished in the locality. When
-the animal was shown, the “Free-Traders,” as the contrabandists were
-euphemistically called, knew that the coast was clear, and promptly
-sailed up and landed their cargo, secure from the attentions of the
-“preventives.” Near “Cat House” is Downham Reach, which was the scene
-of some of Margaret Catchpole’s most exciting adventures.
-
-[Illustration: THE “CAT HOUSE,” NEAR IPSWICH, SO CALLED BECAUSE A WHITE
-CAT WAS EXHIBITED AT THE WINDOW AS A SIGNAL TO SMUGGLERS.
-
-_From a Photo. by Frith & Co._]
-
-[Illustration: THIS TERRIFIC OIL FIRE, STARTED BY A LIGHTNING FLASH,
-DID A HUNDRED AND FIFTY THOUSAND DOLLARS’ WORTH OF DAMAGE.
-
-_From a Photograph._]
-
-The accompanying photograph depicts a terrific oil fire, which
-occurred on the night of June 23rd, 1908, at Warren, Pennsylvania.
-The conflagration started through a tank being struck by lightning,
-and in a very short time twenty-five oil-holders, large and small,
-together with the wax-house, were destroyed. The fire burned for nearly
-twenty-four hours, and its fierceness is almost impossible to conceive.
-The total loss incurred was something like one hundred and fifty
-thousand dollars.
-
-The extraordinary-looking dwelling seen in the next picture was
-built to exactly resemble a steamship’s bridge, with chart-room and
-other appurtenances all complete. This curious erection is situated
-at Algorta, near Bilbao, in the North of Spain, and is called
-“Casa-Barco,” or “house-boat.” It was probably built by a retired
-sea-captain, who felt like a fish out of water until he had provided
-for himself the same environment to which he had been used during
-his active career at sea. One can imagine the old gentleman taking
-his evening walk to and fro along the lofty bridge, scanning the
-surrounding country with a sailor’s eye, and half inclined now and then
-to ring for “more speed,” or to send an order down the tube to the
-steersman.
-
-[Illustration: A HOUSE BUILT TO RESEMBLE A STEAMSHIP’S BRIDGE.
-
-_From a Photograph._]
-
-The cat seen in the next photograph was the pet of the crew of the
-ill-fated whaler _Windward_, which was wrecked in Baffin’s Bay last
-season. After the disaster pussy had a long, cold voyage in the open
-boats in which the ship-wrecked men pulled--amidst ice-bergs, snow,
-and tossing seas--for over five hundred miles, encountering dangers
-and adventures galore, till after three weeks of fearful exposure and
-hardship they were picked up by the whaler _Morning_, in which the
-correspondent who sent us the picture was a passenger. “Pussy then
-made up for her sufferings by making her home in my bunk,” he writes.
-“During the cold nights of the Arctic autumn I found her a very good
-substitute for a hot-water bottle.”
-
-[Illustration: A CAT WHICH MADE A FIVE-HUNDRED-MILE VOYAGE IN AN OPEN
-BOAT IN THE ARCTIC OCEAN.
-
-_From a Photograph._]
-
-[Illustration: ANOTHER REMARKABLE ROCK--IT IS AN ALMOST PERFECT GLOBE,
-AND THOUGH IT PROBABLY WEIGHS TWENTY TONS FOUR STRONG MEN CAN SET IT
-SPINNING ON ITS BASE.
-
-_From a Photograph._]
-
-On the foreshore of the Mata Beach, Mangapai, New Zealand, stands the
-remarkable rock shown above. It is an almost perfect sphere of hard
-blue rock, shot with white quartz, of an entirely different formation
-from any other known rocks in the district. The mystery is, of course,
-to know how it reached its present position on the soft sandstone of
-the beach. Popular opinion is that in distant ages it was shot from a
-volcano, since extinct. The rock, which probably weighs twenty tons,
-rests in a cup like depression in the sandstone formation on which it
-stands, and is so nicely poised that four strong men, encircling it
-with their arms and all pushing one way, can set it spinning on its
-base.
-
-[Illustration: THE BULL-THROWER SEIZING THE ANIMAL BY THE TAIL.
-
-_From a Photograph._]
-
-[Illustration: OVER! THE BULL GOES CRASHING TO EARTH AMID A CLOUD OF
-DUST.
-
-_From a Photograph_]
-
-The two snapshots reproduced above illustrate striking phases of an
-exciting Mexican pastime--that of flooring bulls with the hand from
-horseback! The rider, galloping after the bull, seizes it by the tail
-and, passing his leg over the tail for the sake of leverage, pulls the
-poor beast round sideways until it trips and goes crashing to earth
-amidst a cloud of dust. Needless to say, the bull-thrower needs a
-strong hand and steady nerves, or he may find himself in trouble.
-
-[Illustration: THE MAP-CONTENTS OF “THE WIDE WORLD MAGAZINE,” WHICH
-SHOWS AT A GLANCE THE LOCALITY OF EACH ARTICLE AND NARRATIVE OF
-ADVENTURE IN THIS NUMBER.]
-
-
-[Transcriber’s Note:
-
-Inconsistent spelling and hyphenation are as in the original.]
-
-
-
-
-
-End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Wide World Magazine, by Various
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-
- </style>
- </head>
-<body>
-
-
-<pre>
-
-The Project Gutenberg EBook of Wide World Magazine, by Various
-
-This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most
-other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions
-whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of
-the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at
-www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have
-to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook.
-
-
-
-Title: Wide World Magazine
- Volume XXII, January, 1909, Number 130
-
-Author: Various
-
-Release Date: December 4, 2015 [EBook #50608]
-
-Language: English
-
-Character set encoding: UTF-8
-
-*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK WIDE WORLD MAGAZINE ***
-
-
-
-
-Produced by Victorian/Edwardian Pictorial Magazines,
-Jonathan Ingram, Wayne Hammond, and the Online Distributed
-Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net
-
-
-
-
-
-
-</pre>
-
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="coverpage" src="images/cover.jpg"
-alt="" />
-<p class="copy">The cover image was created by the transcriber and is placed in the public domain.</p>
-</div>
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-
-<!-- Autogenerated TOC. Modify or delete as required. -->
-
-<h2>Table of Contents</h2>
-
-<table>
- <tr>
- <th class="tdr" colspan="2">Page</th>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td><a href="#The_Wide_World_Magazine">The Wide World Magazine.</a></td>
- <td class="tdr">315</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td><a href="#The_Beulah_County_War">The Beulah County “War.”</a></td>
- <td class="tdr">315</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td><a href="#Photographing_a_Volcano_in_Eruption">Photographing a Volcano in Eruption.</a></td>
- <td class="tdr">323</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td><a href="#Our_Leopard_Hunt">Our Leopard Hunt.</a></td>
- <td class="tdr">331</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td><a href="#TURTLE-FARMING">Turtle-farming.</a></td>
- <td class="tdr">336</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td><a href="#SHORT">Short Stories.</a></td>
- <td class="tdr">343</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td><a href="#SOME_SAVAGE_PASTIMES">Some Savage Pastimes.</a></td>
- <td class="tdr">354</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td><a href="#The_Marriage_of_Lulu">The Marriage of Lulu.</a></td>
- <td class="tdr">361</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td><a href="#THE_BREAKER">The Breaker of Records.</a></td>
- <td class="tdr">367</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td><a href="#A_White_Woman_in">A White Woman in Cannibal-Land.</a></td>
- <td class="tdr">372</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td><a href="#My_Experiences">My Experiences in Algeria.</a></td>
- <td class="tdr">377</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td><a href="#Shot-Gun_Jim">“Shot-Gun Jim.”</a></td>
- <td class="tdr">385</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td><a href="#A_Perilous_Mission">A Perilous Mission.</a></td>
- <td class="tdr">394</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td><a href="#A_Voyage_on_an_Ice-Floe">A Voyage on an Ice-Floe.</a></td>
- <td class="tdr">403</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td><a href="#THE_WIDE_WORLD_In_Other_Magazines">The Wide World: In Other Magazines.</a></td>
- <td class="tdr">411</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td><a href="#Odds_and_Ends">Odds and Ends.</a></td>
- <td class="tdr">412</td>
- </tr>
-</table>
-
-<!-- End Autogenerated TOC. -->
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a href="images/i001.jpg">
-<img src="images/i001.jpg"
-alt="" /></a>
-<p class="caption">“‘CRACK! CRACK! CRACK!’ CAME THE ANSWER FROM CUTLER’S GUN.”</p>
-<p class="center">(<a href="#Page_319">SEE PAGE 319.</a>)
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_315">315</span></p>
-</div>
-
-<h1 id="The_Wide_World_Magazine"><span class="smcap">The Wide World Magazine.</span></h1>
-
-<p class="table w100">
-<span class="tcell tdl">Vol. XXII.</span>
-<span class="tcell tdc">JANUARY, 1909.</span>
-<span class="tcell tdr">No. 130.</span>
-</p>
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-<h2 id="The_Beulah_County_War">The Beulah County “War.”<br />
-
-<span class="smcap medium">By H. M. Vernon.</span></h2>
-
-<blockquote>
-
-<p>One of the most striking characteristics of the Westerner is the high regard in which he holds
-womankind. Even in the roughest mining camps a woman is absolutely safe, and is treated with a
-consideration unknown in many more civilized centres. This remarkable story illustrates the
-Westerner’s innate chivalry in a very striking fashion. Sooner than drag the name of a young
-schoolmistress into a quarrel, a resident of Three Corners, Montana, allowed himself to be made an
-outlaw, and for weeks defied the population of a whole county to arrest him, even when a field gun
-was brought out to shell his fastness. How in his extremity the girl he had befriended came to his
-rescue and put an end to this extraordinary “war” is graphically told in the narrative.</p></blockquote>
-
-<div>
-<img class="drop-cap" src="images/i.jpg" alt="I" />
-</div>
-
-<p class="drop-cap"><span class="upper-case">In</span> the extreme western part of the
-State of Montana, U.S.A., in the
-County of Beulah, lies a little town
-called Three Corners. At first only
-a junction on the Rio Grande Railway,
-from which point countless thousands of
-cattle were shipped to all parts of the world,
-Three Corners grew to be a flourishing place.
-The wooden shanties, gambling “joints,” and
-dance halls gave way to brick buildings, several
-banks, a school, and other signs of progress, as
-respectable settlers moved farther toward the
-Golden West. Of course, a part of the old town
-remained, and with it a few of the characters
-typical of a Western “cow town.” Among
-these was a tall, raw-boned man who had drifted
-West in the ‘eighties, settling at Three Corners
-and opening a gambling-house. His name was
-“Jim” Cutler. He was a man of very few
-words, but with one great failing&mdash;he would
-shoot first and argue afterwards. Yet this gambler,
-who was known and feared far and wide as a
-“gun-fighter,” was at heart the mildest of men,
-beloved by all the children in the town, to whom
-he gave coppers galore. Furthermore, Cutler
-would put up with all manner of insult from a
-man under the influence of liquor, or from
-“Tenderfeet” who did not know their danger.
-Cutler’s shooting propensities were directed
-solely toward avowed “bad men” or those who
-delighted in being known as bullies. In the
-course of his altercations with such characters
-this tall, raw-boned man&mdash;who could, and did,
-“pull his gun” like a streak of lightning&mdash;added
-to the population of the local cemetery with a
-score of six.</p>
-
-<p>Among the new-comers to Three Corners
-during the rehabilitation of that town was a
-Hebrew named Moses Goldman. This man, a
-good-looking fellow of some twenty-eight years,
-hailed from New York. He opened a shop, and,
-with the business ability of his race, soon succeeded
-in making it the principal draper’s establishment
-of the place. Before long, however,
-reports began to circulate that the handsome
-young Hebrew was not quite so respectful in
-demeanour towards his lady customers as he
-should have been, and, although highly popular
-with a certain element, the major portion of
-Three Corners’ female population gave Goldman’s
-shop a wide berth.</p>
-
-<p>One Monday morning Jim Cutler, who had
-been up all night looking after the “game” in
-his establishment, was just leaving the place
-when a young woman, whom he recognised as
-the schoolmistress, ran up to him and said:
-“Oh, Mr. Cutler, would you mind walking as
-far as the school-house with me?”</p>
-
-<p>Cutler, somewhat astonished, did so, and was
-gratefully thanked for his trouble. After leaving
-her he walked slowly back to his rooms, wondering
-why he of all men should have been
-chosen to escort the pretty “school ma’am.”</p>
-
-<p>Some days afterwards Cutler, who passed the
-school on his way to and from the Gem Saloon
-(his place), saw the mistress deliberately cross
-the street just before reaching Goldman’s shop,
-and continue on her way on the other side. He
-also saw Goldman come to the door and try to
-attract the girl’s attention. When he reached
-Goldman, the latter; twirling his moustache,
-remarked, laughingly, “Shy girl, that, eh?”
-Cutler looked at the Hebrew for a moment, and
-then answered quietly, as he moved away, “She
-ain’t your kind.”</p>
-
-<p>Three weeks after this little episode there was
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_316">316</span>
-a ball at the City Hotel, and, naturally, almost
-the entire youth and beauty of Three Corners
-“turned out.” The City Hotel was just opposite
-Cutler’s saloon, and at about one o’clock the
-gambler was sitting in a chair outside his place,
-listening to the music, when the schoolmistress
-and her mother left the hotel on their way home.
-A moment later a man also quitted the building
-and followed them. Presently he stopped the
-two ladies and attempted to converse with them.
-The younger of the women apparently expostulated
-with him, and then the two went on,
-leaving him standing at the corner. Cutler
-recognised the solitary figure as that of
-Goldman, the draper, and drew his own conclusions.
-Next morning Cutler made it his
-business to leave the Gem Saloon just as the
-schoolmistress was passing, and strode up to
-her.</p>
-
-<p>“Miss Thurloe,” he said, “you were stopped
-last night on your way home. Can I be of any
-assistance to you? I know you have only your
-mother to protect you.”</p>
-
-<p>The girl gave him a grateful look, and
-explained that Goldman had repeatedly forced
-his attentions on her. She had done her best
-to send him about his business, but he continually
-annoyed her, even going so far as to
-enter the school-house, interrupting lessons and
-making himself generally obnoxious.</p>
-
-<p>Cutler smiled grimly during the girl’s hesitating
-recital, saw her safely to her destination, and
-then went home for a sleep. At three o’clock
-that afternoon he walked leisurely towards the
-school-house, stopped at the fence just by the
-rear door, and chatted with the boys, it being
-the recess hour. Suddenly, approaching from
-the opposite direction, he beheld Goldman, who
-walked straight into the school-house without
-having seen the gambler. The latter waited for
-a few moments, then he also entered the building.
-Reaching the schoolroom, at the end of
-a short hall, he found the door locked, and
-promptly threw himself against it with all his
-strength. The door gave way with a crash and
-Cutler leapt in, to see the schoolmistress
-struggling in the arms of Goldman. She was
-fighting like a tigress, but the Jew’s hand, held
-tightly over her mouth, prevented her crying
-out. Directly Goldman beheld the saloon-keeper
-he released his prisoner, who sank back
-panting upon a chair, and glared savagely at
-the new-comer. Cutler, ignoring him entirely,
-walked slowly toward the agitated schoolmistress
-and stood still, waiting for her to speak.</p>
-
-<p>Goldman, however, was the first to do so.
-“Oh, no wonder I’ve no chance,” he burst out,
-viciously; “Cutler’s as lucky in love as he
-usually is at cards.”</p>
-
-<p>Cutler flushed at the gibe, but he said not a
-word, waiting for the girl to speak. Presently,
-having in a measure recovered herself, she rose
-and approached the gambler. “Mr. Cutler,”
-she said, unsteadily, “this man has insulted me
-repeatedly. Just now he tried to kiss me by
-force, and I’m afraid I shall have to give up my
-position here and leave Three Corners.”</p>
-
-<p>In a very gentle voice Cutler asked the girl
-to leave the room for a few minutes. After she
-had gone he turned toward Goldman, who
-stood looking at him defiantly, his arms folded
-across his chest.</p>
-
-<p>“If you were a man,” he said, sternly, “I’d
-drop you where you stand, but I’m going to
-teach you a lesson that’ll do you a heap of
-good.” Then, with a sudden bound, he grasped
-Goldman by the throat, threw him across a
-desk, and, with a three-foot ruler, administered a
-thrashing such as might be given to a recalcitrant
-schoolboy, only with somewhat greater severity.
-The punishment over, Cutler picked the man
-up and, dragging him across the floor, threw
-him bodily out of the building. Now Goldman
-was himself a powerful man, but Cutler’s action
-had been so swift and decisive that the Hebrew
-had practically no chance to offer resistance.
-Once freed from the gambler’s hold, however,
-he turned and flew at his adversary with
-clenched fists, snarling furiously. Cutler stood
-quite still, and just as the Hebrew came within
-the proper distance his right fist shot out
-straight from the shoulder. It landed square on
-Goldman’s jaw, and he dropped like a log.</p>
-
-<p>Several of the school-children, attracted by
-the noise, now crowded round, vastly excited.
-Cutler, having informed Miss Thurloe that he
-believed she would not be further annoyed,
-but that he would keep an eye on “that fool
-masher,” walked slowly toward the town, leaving
-the vanquished draper lying where he had fallen.</p>
-
-<p>It has been necessary to explain all this in
-order that readers of <span class="smcap">The Wide World
-Magazine</span> unfamiliar with the ways of the
-Far West may better understand what follows.
-I have said that the better element had in a
-manner of speaking driven the original settlers
-at Three Corners to new fields. These new-comers
-looked upon Cutler as an “undesirable.”
-His reputation as a “man-killer” did not appeal
-to the emigrants from the cultured Eastern
-States, who would gladly have seen him pack up
-and leave the town. Goldman was quite aware
-of this, so, directly he recovered himself, he
-asked for and obtained a warrant for Cutler’s
-arrest on a charge of assault. The gambler was
-arraigned before the local magistrate, where he
-steadfastly refused to give any reason for the
-chastisement he had inflicted upon Goldman.
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_317">317</span>
-The latter immediately realized the advantage
-of Cutler’s chivalrous reluctance to drag a
-woman’s name into the affair, and so swore
-that the assault was entirely unprovoked and
-committed out of “pure devilry” on Cutler’s
-part. Cutler was fined fifty dollars
-and severely admonished by the
-Court. Everyone wondered why
-this acknowledged “bad man” did
-not promptly wreak vengeance on
-the Hebrew. The gambler, however,
-desiring to protect the name
-of the school-teacher, said not a word, but paid
-the fine and went about his business as though
-nothing had happened.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a href="images/i004.jpg">
-<img src="images/i004.jpg"
-alt="" /></a>
-<p class="caption">“HE ADMINISTERED A THRASHING SUCH AS MIGHT BE GIVEN TO A RECALCITRANT SCHOOLBOY.”</p>
-</div>
-
-<p>Some ten days passed, when, one moonlight
-evening, Cutler came driving down the road
-leading into Three Corners, behind a fast-trotting
-horse. Just as he reached the end of a long
-field of corn a report rang out and his horse
-dropped, riddled with shot. Cutler jumped
-from his buggy, whipped out his revolver,
-and made for the corn-field, from which the
-shot had evidently come. He made a thorough
-search, but the tall corn-stalks afforded a secure
-hiding-place to the would-be assassin&mdash;for Cutler
-had no doubt whatever that the shot had been
-meant for him. Reluctantly giving up his quest,
-he walked back to his saloon and sent several
-men to remove the dead horse and bring in his
-buggy. The next morning he again made his
-way to the corn-field, and there, just by the
-fence, he found five discarded cigarette ends of
-a very expensive Egyptian brand which he knew
-to be smoked by only one man in Three
-Corners&mdash;Goldman, the draper. Evidently the
-man had lain in wait for a long time. Cutler
-next climbed over the fence, and was about to
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_318">318</span>
-return when he saw lying in the path a piece of
-cloth torn from a jacket, and on it a button. It
-looked as though the would-be murderer, in
-jumping the fence, had caught his coat on the
-barbed wire; at any rate, he had left a damning
-piece of evidence behind him. With the
-cigarette ends and the fragment of cloth in his
-pocket, Cutler walked leisurely up the road into
-the town and made direct for the shop of Moses
-Goldman.</p>
-
-<p>The draper was standing on a step-ladder
-arranging some goods on the shelves. When
-the door opened, ringing a small bell, he turned,
-and seeing Cutler jumped down from the ladder.
-The gambler looked the man straight in the eye.
-“You miserable cur!” he cried, angrily. “You’d
-shoot a man in the dark, would you?”</p>
-
-<p>Goldman, realizing that Cutler had satisfied
-himself as to the identity of his assailant, made
-as if to draw a revolver. That was the last
-movement he ever made, for the next instant he
-dropped dead, shot clean through the heart.</p>
-
-<p>The gambler waited for a moment to see if
-the report of the pistol had attracted any attention;
-then, as no one appeared, he quietly left
-the shop, went over to his saloon, placed two
-revolvers in his belt, and filled his pockets with
-ammunition. Then, taking up a Winchester
-repeating-rifle, he went to the stable, saddled
-his horse, and after a few words with his bartender
-rode out of Three Corners in a westerly
-direction.</p>
-
-<p>It was not long after his departure before
-the entire town was in an uproar. Moses
-Goldman, the energetic draper, had been
-found shot&mdash;killed in his own shop by Jim
-Cutler. The latter had been seen entering
-Goldman’s establishment by several persons,
-and the shot had been heard by people living
-above the store, who afterwards saw Cutler
-leaving. Sheriff Benson, accompanied by two
-deputies, promptly called at the Gem Saloon,
-but the officer was a trifle late, for Cutler was by
-that time some miles distant. Lest it should be
-thought that Cutler had made his escape through
-cowardice it may be best to explain at once,
-perhaps, that this was not the case. The man
-realized that should he be apprehended the
-name of Miss Thurloe must necessarily figure
-prominently in the matter. Strange as it may
-seem, this six-foot gambler, knowing no better,
-believed that by “making himself scarce” he
-was protecting that lady’s good name. This was
-a mistake, undoubtedly, but the fact remains
-that he made it.</p>
-
-<p>It happened that Rufe Benson, Sheriff of
-Beulah County, was a sworn enemy of Cutler’s,
-for the latter some years before had taken the law
-into his own hands and at the point of his gun
-liberated a prisoner whom he believed to be
-innocent, and who was eventually proved to be
-so. Benson now formed a posse of some twenty
-armed men, and there began a man-hunt which
-lasted, so far as this particular posse was concerned,
-for a fortnight. They were then reinforced
-by a body of “Rangers,” some fifty
-strong, who in turn found it necessary to call to
-their assistance a body of militia. All these
-officers were ably assisted by the citizens and
-residents of Beulah County, altogether some
-thousand strong, and yet Jim Cutler proved
-more than their match. Benson’s men trailed
-the fugitive to Kerry’s ranch, some six miles
-out; from here he had gone north-west toward
-the Rio Grande. He was mounted on a thoroughbred&mdash;as
-were all the men, for that matter&mdash;but
-six miles was a long start in a case like this, and
-should the hunted man once reach the mountains&mdash;well,
-there might be some trouble in
-getting at him. The telegraph was put into
-operation, and a circle some ten miles in circumference
-drawn around Cutler. When this cordon
-closed in, however, they failed to find the
-gambler amongst them, but they <i>did</i> find two
-self-appointed “man-hunters” lying where they
-had fallen to the deadly aim of Jim Cutler’s
-repeating-rifle.</p>
-
-<p>From every town for miles around amateur
-detectives joined the hunt, but no trace could
-be found of Cutler beyond the Moulin River,
-a tiny stream only some twenty feet wide, so the
-rivulet was dammed and the water drained off
-for miles, so as to discover, if possible, whether
-Cutler had ridden up or down stream. While
-one party of men were doing this, others rode
-in all directions, searched the ranches, and
-notified every town by telegraph to keep a look-out
-for the slayer of Moses Goldman. More
-and more people joined in the hunt, but for
-some days, in the slang of the West, “there was
-nothing doing.” Then, early one morning, two
-horsemen came galloping towards Benson’s camp,
-and one of the men, dismounting, delivered a
-message to the effect that Cutler had been seen
-at McPherson’s ranch, some eleven miles north-west,
-where he had informed Mr. McPherson
-that he had not the slightest intention of taking
-further life unless driven to it, and that, if
-Benson would call in all his men, he (Cutler)
-would promise to give himself up in a fortnight’s
-time. (It was afterwards learned that he
-intended in the interval to communicate with
-Miss Thurloe and arrange a story, leaving her
-name entirely out of the matter.) Benson,
-however, was on his mettle, and so refused
-to parley with his quarry.</p>
-
-<p>“If Jim Cutler thinks he can defy the law
-and officers of this county, he is mightily
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_319">319</span>
-mistaken,” he said, “and we’re going to take
-him, dead or alive.” This ultimatum duly
-reached Cutler through “non-combatant”
-friends, whereupon he smiled grimly. Being
-now outlawed, it was impossible for Cutler’s
-friends to assist him without making themselves
-amenable to the law, so the hunted man
-demanded and secured everything he required
-at the point of the pistol.</p>
-
-<p>Within fourteen days thereafter nine men who
-had attempted to interfere with the escaping
-gambler paid for their foolhardiness with their
-lives, and all the time, little by little, Cutler was
-getting closer to the mountains, whose shelter
-meant so much to him. Sometimes hidden for
-hours in a haystack, or lying flat under the
-rafters of a barn loft, the fugitive moved on his
-way. The main body of pursuers often got
-within gun-shot of him, but luck favoured the
-man, and he always managed to find cover just
-in time. Finally, completely worn out&mdash;he had
-ridden two horses to death and abandoned
-others commandeered for the time being&mdash;Cutler
-reached the foot of the scrub hills or
-little range which lay between him and his goal.
-Here, for the first time, he came in contact
-with a number of the “man-hunters.” “Lon”
-Masters&mdash;a noted character in Montana, and
-himself a dead shot&mdash;accompanied by eight
-cowboys, suddenly appeared over a rise in the
-ground. Cutler, on foot, saw them coming.
-He dropped on one knee and his rifle flew to
-his shoulder. The horsemen drew rein, and
-Masters, making a trumpet of his hands,
-shouted, “Don’t be a fool, Jim; you’re sure to
-be caught sooner or later. Let me take you, and
-I’ll promise no harm shall come to you. You
-know my word.”</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a href="images/i006.jpg">
-<img src="images/i006.jpg"
-alt="" /></a>
-<p class="caption">TABLE ROCK, CUTLER’S STRONGHOLD IN BEULAH COUNTY.<br />
-<i>From a Photograph.</i></p>
-</div>
-
-<p>“Can’t do it, Lon,” Cutler shouted back. “If
-they give me ten days without interference I’ll
-give myself up&mdash;you know <i>my</i> word.”</p>
-
-<p>“Jim,” responded Masters, “if you don’t
-drop your gun we shall have to fire.”</p>
-
-<p>“Crack! crack! crack!” came the answer
-from Cutler’s gun, Masters and two others of
-the party being hit. The remainder now urged
-their horses forward, but, as first one and then
-another rider was “winged” by the desperate
-man in front of them, the remainder decided
-that they had urgent business elsewhere, and
-rode back for reinforcements.</p>
-
-<p>At last, after a weary night’s climb, Cutler
-reached the place he had been making for. He
-had not slept more than an hour or two for
-days, and so, secure for a time at least&mdash;for no
-one could climb these hills quicker than he had
-done&mdash;the worn-out man dropped in a heap.
-Cutler’s hiding place was a barren ledge, some
-fifty yards in extent, the only approach thereto
-being the bridle-path by which he had come.
-Two, or at most three, at a time was the only
-formation in which his pursuers could get anywhere
-near him, and with Cutler’s knowledge
-of the use of firearms this was a ticklish undertaking,
-to say the least of it. Moreover, he
-could see anyone approaching along the valley
-for a great distance. There was plenty of water
-a little distance down the path, Cutler had
-sufficient food with him to last for a week, and
-he felt he could “make a get-away” during
-this time.</p>
-
-<p>The erstwhile gambler awoke when the sun
-was high in the heavens; he felt lame and sore
-all over. Walking towards the edge of the
-ledge he saw, away in the distance, a large
-party of horsemen spread out over a great area.
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_320">320</span>
-Cutler went down the path, bathed his face and
-arms in the cool spring water, and took a long
-drink; then, returning above, he sat down and
-leisurely ate from his store of dried beef,
-biscuits, and corn bread. At midday the
-approaching horsemen were in full view, and
-Cutler saw that they had come with prairie
-wagons, containing camp paraphernalia,
-evidently prepared for a siege, for they knew as
-well as he did himself of the hiding-place where
-he had taken refuge. Soon the riders came to a
-halt and Cutler laughed as he saw others coming
-from all directions, evidently anxious to be
-“in at the death.” It looked rather a big camp
-to the solitary figure high in the air, but
-numbers meant nothing, only&mdash;well, his ammunition
-would give out sooner or later. Then,
-of course, would come capture&mdash;but he wouldn’t
-look that far ahead.</p>
-
-<p>During the afternoon several men approached,
-one of them displaying a white handkerchief,
-which he waved to and fro. When the men
-reached the bottom of the hill they dismounted
-and one made his way slowly up, shouting now
-and again, “It’s me, Jim&mdash;Joe Ludlow.” Cutler
-made his way down the path and, suddenly
-coming upon Ludlow, ordered him to throw up
-his hands. The man did so, saying, “Jim, you
-and I have been friends for fifteen years; believe
-me, I’m unarmed; I want to talk to you&mdash;trust
-me.” Thereupon Cutler lowered his rifle, and
-the two men shook hands. Then followed a
-long confab, during which Ludlow did his
-utmost to get Cutler to surrender. He said
-Sheriff Benson was prepared to starve Cutler
-out, or get him at all costs. It would only
-mean loss of life and must eventually result in
-the fugitive’s capture. Ludlow said that he, with
-half-a-dozen “pals,” would assure Cutler a safe
-return to Three Corners, sending Benson and
-all the rest on ahead. Then Cutler could stand
-his trial, and, with a good lawyer from Butte to
-defend him, would no doubt stand a chance of
-some sort.</p>
-
-<p>Cutler listened patiently; then he shook his
-head.</p>
-
-<p>“I know what’s coming to me, Joe,” he said;
-“they have been after me for years in a quiet
-way. Now they want my life, but they sha’n’t
-have it&mdash;at least not until I’ve paved the way
-with a few of them.”</p>
-
-<p>Ludlow was a very decent sort of fellow, and
-he tried his utmost to convince Cutler that his
-argument was a good one. Cutler then took
-the man into his confidence, and, Ludlow
-promising not to say a word to those below, he
-was told the whole story&mdash;told of Miss Thurloe’s
-complaints, the episode at the school-house, the
-shooting of Cutler’s horse, and everything.</p>
-
-<p>“Well, I’m jiggered!” cried Ludlow, when
-the tale was finished. “Why didn’t you let us
-know this in the first place?” He then informed
-the gambler that he would ride back to
-Three Corners and explain the situation to the
-schoolmistress. She had only to tell her story
-to the judge, he said, and it was a certainty he
-would interfere in some way. Cutler demurred,
-but Ludlow bluntly told him to “go to h&mdash;&mdash;;
-he wasn’t going to see a good man hounded to
-death.” With that, turning on his heel, he left
-without another word.</p>
-
-<p>Going back to the camp, Ludlow informed
-Sheriff Benson that under no circumstances
-ought he to attempt to take Cutler, and asked
-him to await his return from Three Corners.
-Benson replied, “I want none of your conversation,
-Ludlow; Cutler is a downright murderer,
-and I mean to have him.”</p>
-
-<p>Ludlow, disdaining further argument, rode off
-at full speed toward the little town where all the
-trouble had occurred.</p>
-
-<p>Not knowing just what card Ludlow had up
-his sleeve, the sheriff decided to make quick
-work of Cutler’s capture. He therefore sent a
-party of deputies to Malvern, the nearest telegraph
-station, and in the name of the law asked
-the county militia to send him some men with
-a mountain gun, the property of private
-individuals who practised soldiering as a pastime.
-Each State in America, it may be said in
-passing, possesses several such regiments, which
-are available in war-time, although in no way
-a part of the Government organization, and
-having no connection with the State militia. It
-would have been useless to attempt to dislodge
-Cutler as matters stood, but Benson believed
-that a few shots from a cannon might have the
-desired effect. When his message was received
-at Malvern it created a sensation. Business was
-for the nonce neglected and everybody&mdash;men,
-women, and children&mdash;made their way toward
-the sheriffs camp at Table Hill.</p>
-
-<p>Several attempts were made to parley with
-Cutler, without success, and so three days went
-by. On the afternoon of the fourth day the
-refugee on the rock was thunderstruck to see a
-body of soldiers approaching from the south,
-with a field gun hauled by four horses. He did
-not know whether to laugh or to regard this
-seriously. Surely the officers of the law would
-not resort to bombarding him with a cannon?
-Soon the soldiers reached the camp, and about
-an hour later Cutler saw that the gun, a howitzer,
-was being trained on the hill where he lay
-enjoying a smoke. There was no chance of his
-getting away other than by the path by which he
-had come. Behind him there was a sheer drop
-of hundreds of feet into the gully far below.
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_321">321</span>
-True, he could descend some distance down the
-mountain-side, but if the besiegers really meant
-business this would not help him much.
-Nothing was done that day, but Cutler kept
-vigilant watch all through the night. He had
-regularly built a huge fire some way down the
-mountain-side, which was protected by trees to
-some extent, but
-lit up the path
-for a considerable
-distance.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a href="images/i008.jpg">
-<img src="images/i008.jpg"
-alt="" /></a>
-<p class="caption">“IF YOU SO MUCH AS WINK YOUR EYE I’LL PUT A HOLE IN YOU.”</p>
-</div>
-
-<p>The next
-morning a party
-numbering a
-dozen came toward
-the hill
-again bearing a
-white flag. They
-stopped some
-distance off, one
-man only continuing&mdash;Benson,
-the Sheriff of
-Beulah County,
-himself. Cutler
-allowed him to
-approach much
-nearer than had
-Ludlow; then
-he covered the
-advancing sheriff
-with his rifle.</p>
-
-<p>“Cutler, if we
-haven’t rushed
-this place,” said
-Benson, “it is
-only because I
-did not want to
-sacrifice human
-lives, knowing
-full well that
-sooner or later
-you must give
-up. I know you
-are on the
-square, so I’ve
-come up unarmed,
-being
-sure you wouldn’t
-take advantage of
-the white flag. I’m only doing my duty. I give
-you this chance to come back with me, otherwise
-I’m afraid they’ll blow this place up and
-you with it.”</p>
-
-<p>“Regular war, isn’t it?” replied Cutler,
-smilingly.</p>
-
-<p>“Looks like it,” admitted the sheriff.</p>
-
-<p>“Well, seeing you are trying that game, I’ll
-just do a little in the war line myself,” said
-Cutler. “You walk up this path towards me,
-and if you so much as wink your eye I’ll put a
-hole in you that a tramcar could go through!”</p>
-
-<p>The sheriff could hardly believe his ears.
-“Don’t be a fool, Cutler,” he said, angrily.</p>
-
-<p>“Never mind about my being a fool; you
-do as you’re told or I’ll drop you quick.”</p>
-
-<p>Benson evidently
-had no
-doubts about
-the matter, for,
-though beside
-himself with
-rage, he promptly
-did as Cutler
-ordered. The
-sheriff was forced
-to walk ahead,
-and no doubt,
-had his captor
-been almost any
-other man than
-Jim Cutler, there
-would have been
-one big fight on
-Table Hill, gun
-or no gun, but
-Benson knew
-that Cutler would
-do just as he
-said he would.
-Arrived at the
-top, Benson was
-forced to write a
-note saying that
-he was a captive,
-and that perhaps
-it would be just
-as well not to fire
-the cannon in
-the direction it
-was now trained.
-Furthermore, one
-man was to
-approach the
-hill with food,
-whisky, and tobacco.
-The note
-was then secured
-to a large stone by
-the aid of Sheriff Benson’s braces, and while
-Cutler “stood by” Benson was ordered to throw
-this stone toward the deputy in charge of the waiting
-horsemen below. This man, or one of those
-with him, picked up the stone, and read the
-message to the others. There was a great laugh
-below&mdash;plainly heard by the two men on the
-ledge&mdash;and, needless to say, the merriment of
-his assistants did not add to Benson’s peace of
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_322">322</span>
-mind. Cutler now laid his rifle down, first
-having drawn a six-shooter. Then, approaching
-Benson, he searched him for concealed firearms,
-but the sheriff was unarmed. The latter
-was now told to sit down and make himself
-comfortable at the opening which led to the
-path, Cutler being thereby able to watch
-both his prisoner and the approach from
-below. Soon a solitary figure came from
-the camp, carrying the food “ordered.” It
-was brought as near as Cutler permitted it to
-be, and then Benson, under cover of the rifle,
-was sent to fetch it. It looked for a moment as
-though there might be a fight after all, but
-Cutler’s business-like demeanour soon caused
-his prisoner to change his mind.</p>
-
-<p>With the food there was a note, reading,
-“Are we to wait for you or not?” This did
-not appeal to the sheriff’s sense of humour, and
-he tore the paper into shreds.</p>
-
-<p>Just at sundown a large cloud of dust was
-noticed in the distance, which soon turned out
-to be a number of mounted men with a wagon,
-or “prairie schooner.” The new-comers were
-presently merged with those in camp, and not
-long afterwards two men, escorting a woman,
-rode slowly toward Table Hill. Again the
-white flag was raised, and a voice shouted from
-below, “Hi, Jim, it’s me&mdash;Ludlow.”</p>
-
-<p>Cutler permitted his friend to approach, and
-when he gained the ledge Ludlow had a hard
-struggle to restrain his laughter at the unfortunate
-sheriff’s predicament.</p>
-
-<p>“I’ve brought some news for you, Jim,” said
-Ludlow. “That school-ma’am is a brick, and
-no mistake. When I told her how things stood,
-she came right to the front, and not only saw
-Judge Nolan, but drove twenty miles to see
-Governor Hill, and here’s the result.”</p>
-
-<p>Ludlow then handed Sheriff Benson an
-official communication paroling Cutler in his
-own recognizances pending investigation of
-Miss Thurloe’s story. Western men are
-nothing if not intensely chivalrous, and, if this
-girl’s story was correct, Cutler, in their estimation,
-deserved, not death, but a medal.</p>
-
-<p>The amazed sheriff scratched his head and
-Cutler seemed undecided, but Ludlow grasped
-his hand eagerly. “Come on, old fellow, down
-to the sea-level,” he cried. This broke the
-tension, and all three men smiled.</p>
-
-<p>“There is nothing for me to do but obey
-this, Cutler,” said the sheriff, slowly; “but I’ll
-tell you straight I don’t feel like doing it.”</p>
-
-<p>Ludlow turned to Benson and informed him
-that Judge Nolan had made him a Court officer,
-the tenure of his office being thirty days, and
-that he would brook no interference from
-Benson or anyone else. That settled it. The
-trio walked down the path, where Miss Thurloe,
-with tears in her eyes, thanked Cutler for his
-brave and manly action on her behalf. She
-said that she had reason to believe he would be
-acquitted, and that, as no warrant had been
-issued for his arrest until after he had shot the
-men who had attempted to stop him, it must be
-a case of self-defence.</p>
-
-<p>Cutler was received with cheers by the crowd
-in camp&mdash;the same men who were thirsting for
-his blood an hour before&mdash;and soon everybody
-was seeking the nearest way home, and the
-scene of action was shortly deserted. It is not
-possible to chronicle that Jim Cutler was
-triumphantly acquitted at his trial. His
-character went strongly against him&mdash;that is to
-say, the fact that he had previously figured in
-“shooting scrapes”&mdash;but, nevertheless, his
-sentence was a comparatively light one. The
-State’s attorney (analogous to counsel for the
-Crown) laid great stress on the fact of
-Cutler’s having visited Goldman’s shop,
-obviously seeking trouble, when he should have
-reported the attempt on his life to the authorities.
-He was sentenced to five years in the State
-prison, but was pardoned at the expiration of
-eleven months. He is now living in Butte, the
-capital of the State of Montana, where he has
-opened a saloon. Miss Thurloe left Three
-Corners, and is believed to be teaching in
-Pittsburg, U.S.A.</p>
-
-<p>The local newspapers poked much fun at the
-soldiers who took their cannon miles out to
-bombard what they jocularly called “a one-man
-army”; but all the same they meant business, and
-had matters not ended as they did there would
-have been a change in the landscape just there,
-for the top of Table Hill would in all probability
-have been blown to pieces, and Jim Cutler with it.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a href="images/i009.jpg">
-<img src="images/i009.jpg"
-alt="" /></a>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_323">323</span></div>
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-<h2 id="Photographing_a_Volcano_in_Eruption">Photographing a Volcano in Eruption.<br />
-
-<span class="smcap medium">By Frank Davey.</span></h2>
-
-<blockquote>
-
-<p>A vivid description of a photographer’s adventures in securing pictures of the eruption of Makuaweoweo,
-in Hawaii. With pen and camera Mr. Davey depicts the awe inspiring grandeur of the lake of fire in
-the crater of Mauna Loa, the pyrotechnic display afforded by the active cone on the mountain-side, and
-the horrors of night amid the lava-wastes, where death menaced the party on every hand.</p></blockquote>
-
-<div>
-<img class="drop-cap" src="images/o.jpg" alt="O" />
-</div>
-
-<p class="drop-cap"><span class="upper-case">On</span> Tuesday, July 1, 1899, reports
-reached Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands,
-that the volcano of Makuaweoweo,
-situated at the summit of Mauna
-Loa, thirteen thousand six hundred
-and seventy-five feet high, on the island of
-Hawaii, had burst forth with all the fury of
-years gone by. I was anxious to get some
-photographs of the eruption if possible, and so
-made all the haste I could to get my paraphernalia
-together and catch the steamer <i>W. H.
-Hall</i>, bound for Hawaii.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a href="images/i010.jpg">
-<img src="images/i010.jpg"
-alt="" /></a>
-<p class="caption">“PAHOEHOE” LAVA, WHICH APPEARS AS THOUGH IT HAD COOLED WHILE FLOWING QUIETLY.<br />
-<i>From a Photograph.</i></p>
-</div>
-
-<p>I left with the intention of reaching the scene
-of action from the Kau side of the island, but
-when, upon arriving at Kailua, Kona, I telegraphed
-to Mr. N. S. Monsarrat, at Kapapalu,
-I found that he had a house full of guests bent
-on the same journey, and that all his horses had
-been engaged. Rather than lose time, therefore,
-I decided to take the most difficult route
-of all&mdash;right over the great mountain from the
-Kona side. The obstacles to be overcome may
-perhaps be imagined when I state that Mauna
-Loa is a volcanic mountain, nearly fourteen
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_324">324</span>
-thousand feet high, and that one has to make
-one’s way for the entire distance over every kind
-of lava formation.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a href="images/i011.jpg">
-<img src="images/i011.jpg"
-alt="" /></a>
-<p class="caption">“A. A.” LAVA, WHICH LOOKS AS THOUGH IT HAD SOLIDIFIED WHILE TOSSING LIKE A SEA IN A STORM AND THEN BEEN BROKEN
-UP BY EARTHQUAKES.<br />
-[<i>From a Photograph</i>.]</p>
-</div>
-
-<p>It was with great difficulty that I managed to
-get horses and mules from the natives, who knew
-the condition of the country, for the animals
-inevitably get badly knocked about, their legs
-being terribly cut by the lava, which is divided
-into two classes&mdash;“Pahoehoe” and “A. A.”
-The former term is applied to tracts of comparatively
-smooth lava, which appears as though
-it had cooled while flowing quietly; the latter is
-applied to stretches of broken lava which seem to
-have cooled when tossing like an ocean in a bad
-storm, and to have afterwards been broken up
-by earthquakes. No words of description can
-convey an idea of its roughness and hardness,
-which may be faintly realized from an inspection
-of the above photograph.</p>
-
-<p>During the time I was hunting for horses a
-number of gentlemen arrived and expressed
-their desire to join me in the expedition. I was
-only too pleased to have their company, so five
-travellers threw in their lot with me: Professor
-Ingalls, Colonel McCarthy, and Messrs. Sterns
-Buck, J. Ballard, and H. C. Klugel. These,
-with three guides, completed our party.</p>
-
-<p>We were up early the next morning. The
-first part of the journey was one of the most
-delightful rides I ever had. We rode for hours
-through magnificent tropical growths. There
-were giant ferns, some of which must have been
-thirty or forty feet high and three feet in
-diameter, groves of guavas, coco-nuts, and other
-fruits, miles of wild mint and bright-coloured
-flowers, and orchids of most delicate shapes.</p>
-
-<p>At dusk we reached the edge of the timber-line,
-in a drenching rain, a downpour such as is
-experienced only in the tropics, where the rain
-descends in sheets. We ate our supper and
-then spent the night huddled miserably together,
-trying in vain to keep dry.</p>
-
-<p>We resumed our journey at daybreak, over the
-most terrible country that can be imagined. The
-sharp edges of the lava cut through our stout
-boots like broken glass, and the poor animals
-suffered greatly. Still, however, we persevered,
-and finally reached the summit just as it was
-getting dark. Near the centre of the mountain-top
-an area of about four square miles sinks to
-a depth of one thousand feet. This is the great
-crater of Makuaweoweo, which we had endured
-so much to see.</p>
-
-<p>As I stood there in the cold, in the midst of
-those cheerless and God-forsaken wastes, I gazed
-down with speechless awe upon the untrammelled
-frolics of the God of Fire. The tempest-tossed
-lake of molten lava below the rim of the great
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_325">325</span>
-cauldron was a typical workshop of Vulcan.
-The face of the lake of liquid fire alternated
-continually between black and white, like molten
-iron in a furnace. Oxidation and cooling of the
-fiery fluid would blacken the surface with a
-pall that covered it in darkest gloom; then
-a trembling, caused by further subterranean
-outbursts of steam, would break this ice-like
-oxide into a fretwork of tens of thousands of
-incandescent cracks, lighting up the smoke-charged
-pit with a fierce glare. Another
-moment, and in different parts of the lake
-geysers of fire of every imaginable colour would
-rise like fountains in a public garden.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a href="images/i012.jpg">
-<img src="images/i012.jpg"
-alt="" /></a>
-<p class="caption">THE AUTHOR SURVEYING THE CRATER OF MAKUAWEOWEO FROM A PINNACLE OF LAVA.<br />
-<i>From a Photograph.</i></p>
-</div>
-
-<p>The great forbidding-looking walls of this
-“home of everlasting fire” sparkled with the
-unusual light, and then, as the spouts of flame
-died away, the surface would again turn black,
-leaving the whole mass to all appearances dead.</p>
-
-<p>We found that the worst outbreak was about
-five thousand feet farther down the mountain-side.
-Some of our party were seized with such
-a sickness of horror at the crater’s edge that
-they rolled themselves up in their blankets and
-refused to look down upon this fiery maelstrom&mdash;and
-that after two days of arduous
-effort to reach a point of view!</p>
-
-<p>When the time came for sleep, another man
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_326">326</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_327">327</span>
-and I turned into a “blowhole” in the lava; it
-was an immense bubble that had cooled and
-left an opening so that we could crawl in. We
-little thought that there was another hole at the
-other end, and the piercing wind blew through
-this like a funnel; but we had to stay there, for
-it is dangerous to wander about over the rifts
-and chasms of jagged lava in the darkness.
-Here, in this strange bed-chamber, we slept, or
-tried to sleep&mdash;shivering and shuddering through
-the chilly solitude of the night in those desolate
-mountain wastes.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a href="images/i013.jpg">
-<img src="images/i013.jpg"
-alt="" /></a>
-<p class="caption">THE CRATER OF MAKUAWEOWEO, SHOWING THE AWFUL LAKE OF LIQUID FIRE.<br />
-<i>From a Photograph.</i></p>
-</div>
-
-<p>Walking across the congealed masses of lava
-next morning, one began to think that at any
-moment one was liable to drop through to the
-very gates of Hades and be precipitated to the
-most horrible of deaths. Underneath one was
-a bottomless abyss of mud, sulphur, and rock;
-and to contemplate being cast into that fearsome-looking
-lake of fire and brimstone was not
-at all comfortable. The Biblical description of
-hell does not convey even a faint idea of that
-terrible lake of fire below us, which appeared to
-be fretting and fuming as though anxious to get
-loose and destroy everything in its path. The
-crater of Makuaweoweo at that time, without
-doubt, afforded the spectator a more awe-inspiring
-display of the forces of Nature than
-has been granted to man elsewhere on earth
-without the sacrifice of life.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a href="images/i014.jpg">
-<img src="images/i014.jpg"
-alt="" /></a>
-<p class="caption">THE AUTHOR AND HIS COMPANIONS AS THEY APPEARED JUST BEFORE LEAVING THEIR HORSES TO VISIT THE WORST OUTBREAK.<br />
-<i>From a Photograph.</i></p>
-</div>
-
-<p>Soon after daylight we prepared for the
-descent to the point that was throwing out
-molten lava at a white heat. It was practically
-impossible to take the horses farther, so we
-tethered them to stones near the yawning depths
-of Makuaweoweo, and left one of the guides to
-look after them. We were very thirsty, but it was
-some time before we could find water, though
-snow and ice were plentiful. Farther down,
-however, we discovered water in a deep crack
-in the lava, filled the canteens, and started on
-our downward journey. I was suffering from
-mountain sickness; my head felt as if it would
-burst and my stomach was upside down. We
-stumbled along with difficulty for about two
-miles, when I had to get the assistance of Mr.
-Buck to carry my camera. Two of our party
-who had started out in advance gave it up and
-returned&mdash;they could not stand the strain of the
-rough travelling. This left but four of us, with
-two guides.</p>
-
-<p>Presently we reached a cone where the lava
-had piled up to the height of about one hundred
-feet, then, bursting out at the side, disappeared
-into the ground, to reappear about a quarter of
-a mile farther down and repeat its action. These
-cones averaged two hundred feet in width at the
-base and one hundred feet in height, and we
-passed five “dead” ones. A sixth was still
-smoking, but was not active. Two of the party
-tried to climb to the top of this cone, but were
-unable to do so.</p>
-
-<p>We then pushed on to cone number seven,
-which was belching forth huge volumes of steam
-and sulphur. The fumes, most fortunately,
-were being blown away from us. At this stage
-one of the guides refused to go any farther; it
-was too dangerous, he said, so he proceeded to
-retrace his steps, while we others continued our
-journey toward cone number eight. This was
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_328">328</span>
-the last and largest, and was, I should estimate,
-about two hundred feet high; in fact, a veritable
-miniature volcano, spouting red-hot lava a
-hundred feet in the air with a ripping boom that
-could be heard for miles. Boulders that must
-have weighed a ton were being hurled high into
-the air as if shot from a cannon. Others followed
-to meet those coming down, and as they met
-they burst like explosive shells, scattering molten
-matter on all sides. This flowed down the
-incline in cascades like water, showing red,
-yellow, blue, and all the colours of the rainbow.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a href="images/i015.jpg">
-<img src="images/i015.jpg"
-alt="" /></a>
-<p class="caption">TWO OF THE “DEAD” CONES PASSED BY THE PARTY.<br />
-<i>From a Photograph.</i></p>
-</div>
-
-<p>It is impossible to describe the grandeur of
-the effect, and a knowledge of the force that
-was causing the display made one feel very
-small indeed. Some of the ejected masses were
-as large as a horse, and when they were belched
-forth were at a white heat. They went so high
-that they had time to cool and return to the
-vortex black.</p>
-
-<p>It was three o’clock in the afternoon when we
-reached this wonderful display. It had taken
-us nine hours to reach the volcano, and we were
-thirsty and well-nigh exhausted. We could not
-approach very near on account of the heat, but
-I made some photographic exposures, and then
-sat for an hour watching the wonderful sight.
-As the sun went down the magnificence of the
-scene increased. The ground shook at each
-explosion to such an extent as to make us sick.
-We found quantities of what is known as “Pele’s
-hair.”<a id="FNanchor_1" href="#Footnote_1" class="fnanchor">1</a> It is caused by the wind blowing the
-liquid lava through the air, forming fine threads
-like human hair.</p>
-
-<div class="footnote">
-
-<p><a id="Footnote_1" href="#FNanchor_1" class="label">1</a>
-Pele, according to the native legends, is the goddess of the
-volcano, and dwells in the crater.</p></div>
-
-<p>As we approached cone number seven on our
-return journey the wind changed, and to our
-consternation we saw a cloud of sulphur blowing
-right across our path. These masses of vapour
-are so impregnated with sulphur and poisonous
-gases that it is impossible for any living thing to
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_329">329</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_330">330</span>
-exist among them, and to get caught in their
-midst means death. Alarmed, we started to go
-around the other side, but found the lava was
-too hot; the surface was cool, but there was
-living fire beneath, and we dared not proceed.
-We kept on until the lava began to move under
-our feet, and then beat a retreat to face the
-sulphur again, for it was better to be smothered
-to death than slowly roasted.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a href="images/i016.jpg">
-<img src="images/i016.jpg"
-alt="" /></a>
-<p class="caption">CONE “NUMBER SEVEN”&mdash;IT WAS ABOUT TWO HUNDRED FEET HIGH, A MINIATURE VOLCANO, SPOUTING RED-HOT LAVA AND GIANT BOULDERS WITH A ROAR THAT COULD
-BE HEARD FOR MILES.<br />
-<i>From a Photograph.</i></p>
-</div>
-
-<p>We made a number of attempts to pass that
-deadly barrier of vapour, but were forced to
-return each time, nearly suffocated. It looked
-as though we should soon be choked to death&mdash;the
-fire at the back of us, the sulphur in front.
-Professor Ingalls remarked that we had better
-make the best of our time by taking notes, and
-then prepare for the worst. Just at this critical
-moment I happened to turn round and saw an
-arch, as it were, in the sulphur smoke, where the
-wind was blowing it up from the ground.</p>
-
-<p>“Look! look!” I shouted, in great excitement.
-“Run for it!” And how we ran!
-Providence gave us the chance and fear lent us
-strength, for under ordinary circumstances we
-could never have run as we did, owing to the
-condition of our feet. The danger, however,
-made us forget the pain, and we ran for dear life.
-We had scarcely got through that arch of clear
-air when down came the cloud again, as though
-lowered by some great power. The only guide
-who had stayed with us fell exhausted at the
-edge of the vapour-mass. How I managed to
-drag him along I do not know; I hardly realized
-what I was doing, but I managed to save him.</p>
-
-<p>Once past the danger-point we crawled along
-at our best pace, for at any moment the wind
-might turn in our direction, when we should be
-again overtaken by that terrible death-cloud. I
-had left my camera behind in our wild flight,
-but fortunately I saved several plates.</p>
-
-<p>It was now night, and the only light we had
-was the lurid glare from the volcano. Suddenly,
-as we stumbled painfully along, we came upon a
-man sitting by the side of a dead cone; it was
-the guide who had returned. He said he did
-not expect to see us alive again, for he had seen
-the deadly smoke blow across the mountain.</p>
-
-<p>If it had not been for the light from the
-volcano we should undoubtedly have perished of
-cold and thirst, as we should have been compelled
-to stop walking. As it was, we dared not
-halt for any length of time, or we should not
-have had warmth enough to keep the blood
-circulating. All that night we crawled over
-that terrible lava. We fell down at intervals of
-about twenty feet, often breaking through the
-black crust, sometimes up to our waists, cutting
-ourselves on the sharp projections until our
-hands and legs were woefully lacerated. Almost
-as soon as we fell we dropped asleep; then, as
-we got colder, we would wake up and force ourselves
-on again for a few dozen yards or so, only
-to fall asleep, wake, and struggle up once more.
-The agony of the situation and the pain of our
-wounds were enough to make a man go insane.</p>
-
-<p>At last it began to get light, but still we had
-come across no water, and that in our canteens
-had long since been exhausted. Very few
-people, fortunately, know what it means to have
-their throats and lips so swollen and cracked that
-they are bleeding for want of water. I could
-scarcely speak. We hunted the depths and
-crevices of the lava, sometimes going down ten
-or fifteen feet, looking for water, only to be
-disappointed again and again. At last I got so
-weak that Mr. Buck had to take my package of
-plates off my back, where I had tied them.</p>
-
-<p>Suddenly I saw a break in the lava nearly full
-of beautiful water. I pulled Mr. Buck’s arm,
-pointing to it, and mumbled, “Water.” Slowly
-he pulled off his coat and started to climb down
-the crack. It was about eight feet wide, narrowing
-to three. I leaned over the side, holding
-the canteen for Mr. Buck to fill. He went
-down a few feet, and then stopped. I
-motioned to him to fill the bottle, croaking,
-“Water.” He did not look around, but mumbled,
-“I see no water,” as if in a dream. Picking up
-a piece of lava, I tossed it down and cried
-hoarsely, “<i>There</i> is the water.” But to my
-astonishment the pebble went down, down,
-down, out of sight, with no sound of a splash,
-into a fathomless abyss. The crevice was so
-deep that we could not see the bottom, and the
-shock of the discovery made me faint. How
-Sterns Buck managed to return he does not
-remember; it is a wonder he did not fall, to be
-mangled upon the sharp corners of lava.</p>
-
-<p>I came to my senses dazed and almost
-bewildered, and Buck and I sat motionless for
-some time staring at each other. After a time
-we scrambled on again until we came upon the
-guide sitting upon the edge of a high crack,
-eating frozen snow, and tearing at it with his
-teeth like a hungry dog. We followed his
-example, not without pain, but the snow tasted
-good.</p>
-
-<p>Some of the party who had previously returned
-met us near the summit with coffee. When
-they saw us coming they got things ready so as
-to make us as comfortable as possible. After
-washing our lacerated hands and feet we took a
-good sleep, and awoke much refreshed. The
-journey home was, comparatively speaking, easy,
-but the memory of that night amidst the lava
-will last me to my dying day.
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_331">331</span></p>
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="Our_Leopard_Hunt" src="images/i018.jpg"
-alt="Our Leopard Hunt." />
-<p class="center"><span class="smcap medium">By Thomas B. Marshall.</span></p>
-</div>
-
-<blockquote>
-
-<p>An exciting story told by a former official of the Gold Coast Government. With a friend and some
-natives he went out to shoot a marauding leopard. They accomplished their mission, but before the
-day was over one and all of the party had received a good deal more than they bargained for.</p></blockquote>
-
-<div>
-<img class="drop-cap" src="images/i.jpg" alt="I" />
-</div>
-
-<p class="drop-cap"><span class="upper-case">In</span> 1899, while in the service of
-the Gold Coast Government, and
-stationed at Kumasi, I received
-orders “per bearer, who will accompany
-you,” to proceed to a point on
-Volta not far south of where it
-debouches from among the Saraga Hills.
-“The bearer,” a nice young fellow called
-Strange, was newly arrived in the colony, and
-his pleasant home gossip was not less welcome
-to me than my information about the country
-we were in was to him. Our rough forest
-journey, then, passed as pleasantly as such
-journeys can, and by the time we arrived at our
-destination we were the best of friends.</p>
-
-<p>Akroful, a town of about seven hundred
-inhabitants, was the nearest place of any size to
-the spot where we pitched our camp, and we
-were soon on good terms with its headman,
-Otibu Daku, and his son, Dansani, both of
-whom put us in the way of some good shooting.</p>
-
-<p>We had been in this place about a fortnight,
-when we began to be annoyed by the depredations
-of a marauding leopard, who took to
-visiting our live-stock pens, and at last we
-decided to lie in wait for him. I took the first
-watch until a snake crawled over my legs; then
-I went to bed. It was a harmless one, but it
-reminded me of the need of precaution, so next
-night found our lair surrounded by a very
-uninviting floor of cactus leaves.</p>
-
-<p>The fourth night after our vigil commenced
-Strange succeeded in wounding our sell-invited
-guest, and we determined to track him down as
-soon as it was light. Otibu Daku and his son
-willingly agreed to help us; and I took, in
-addition, two of my own men who would, I
-knew, “stand fire”&mdash;Ashong Tawiah, an Accra
-man, and Nyato, my chief steward-boy, a
-Krooman.</p>
-
-<p>The two Ashantis led the way, Otibu Daku
-carrying a “long Dane” gun; his son, a
-machete. Tawiah and Nyato also carried
-machetes, and the former, on leaving camp, had
-picked up a broad-bladed Hausa spear. Strange
-and I each had a repeating rifle and a revolver,
-for, as Nyato told me, “Dem headman, ’e say,
-plenty tiger lib dem part.”</p>
-
-<p>The trail was easy to follow. There was not
-much blood, but the ground was soft from
-recent rain. It was rough going, however, and
-the machetes were constantly at work clearing
-a way. Up and down small watersheds,
-squelching through marshy bottoms, crossing
-streams on fallen trees, we frequently lost the
-track, but by some sort of instinct our guides
-always found it again.</p>
-
-<p>At last, after descending a more than usually
-steep incline, we found ourselves in a valley of
-some size. The bush here was very thin, and
-we progressed without difficulty until we came
-in sight of the inevitable stream, the opposite
-bank of which, rising steeply, evidently formed
-the commencement of the next divide. I was
-about a dozen yards to Strange’s right; the
-ground was clear of bush between us and the
-stream; and on the nearer bank, his head overhanging
-the water, lay our quarry, clearly dying.
-But he was not alone. Stretched by his side,
-licking the wound that was letting out his life,
-lay a fine female leopard, evidently his consort.
-On seeing us she rose to her feet, snarling;
-she abandoned her ministrations and became
-militant&mdash;a defender-avenger. Strange fired
-hastily on sight, and a convulsive heave of the
-prostrate body showed where the bullet struck.
-With a light leap the leopardess cleared her
-mate, and with long, low springs raced down
-towards my friend. He fired again at thirty
-yards, wounding her, and she swerved slightly
-and came in my direction. We both fired
-together, whereupon she stopped suddenly,
-reared straight up, pawing the air&mdash;then fell
-backward, stone-dead.
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_332">332</span></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a href="images/i019.jpg">
-<img src="images/i019.jpg"
-alt="" /></a>
-<p class="caption">“SHE REARED STRAIGHT UP PAWING THE AIR&mdash;THEN FELL BACKWARD, STONE-DEAD.”</p>
-</div>
-
-<p>Hardly had the double report died away
-when our attention was attracted to a movement
-on the other side of the stream. Tawiah
-pointed.</p>
-
-<p>“Oolah! tiger him piccin!” (“Master, the
-leopard’s cubs”), he cried. Slinking away downstream,
-with long, stealthy strides, their muzzles
-to the ground and tails trailing low, were two
-half-grown leopards, the head of one level with
-the other’s haunch.</p>
-
-<p>“Tally-ho!” cried Strange, and let fly at
-them. His one fault as a sportsman was a
-too great eagerness to get the first shot in.
-The white splinters flew from the buttress of a
-great cotton-wood, and the nearer cub, startled
-as never before, leapt a man’s height from the
-ground, and, coming down, raced away downstream
-after its companion.</p>
-
-<p>“Come on! We’ll bag the whole family,”
-said Strange, jumping into the stream. Otibu
-Daku was already across and I was about to
-follow, when I noticed, fluttering up the farther
-slope, one of those beautiful insects called the
-“dead leaf” butterfly. You will see one fluttering
-along like a fugitive piece of rainbow&mdash;then
-suddenly it will alight on a withered branch or
-heap of dead herbage and disappear, the underside
-of the wings being in shape, colour, and
-even veining an exact imitation of a withered
-leaf.</p>
-
-<p>I was an enthusiastic collector, and never
-went out without a folding net that could be
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_333">333</span>
-fixed to any fairly straight stick. Bidding
-Tawiah remain with me, then, I let the others
-go on after the cubs, and in a couple of minutes
-was in pursuit of my own particular quarry.
-The slope was nearly bare of bush, and I did
-not have much difficulty in making the capture.
-Placing it in a flat box containing some poison-wax,
-I took my rifle from Tawiah and went on up
-the hill, leaving him tying up a scratch on his leg.</p>
-
-<p>I was not quite easy in my mind. We had
-been too hasty in concluding that the cubs we
-had seen belonged to the leopards we had shot.
-They had been driven away too easily, and most
-likely were heading straight for their own den,
-where, at that time of day, the old ones would
-certainly be at home.</p>
-
-<p>I hurried on in the hope of getting some
-indication of my friend’s whereabouts. At the
-top of the ascent a soft breeze met me, it was
-pleasant and refreshing, but it brought that with
-it that made me drop flat behind a bush and
-throw my rifle forward. There is no mistaking
-the odour given off by the larger carnivora, and
-the strength of the smell that assailed my
-nostrils was such as to convince me that my
-first hasty thought&mdash;that I had headed off the
-cubs&mdash;was wrong. Such an effluvium could come
-only from a den, and an occupied one at that.</p>
-
-<p>There were three possibilities. It might be
-the home of the dead leopards, of the strange
-cubs we had seen, or the lair of yet a third
-family. I looked back. Tawiah was not in
-sight, but I knew he would follow. In front, for
-a hundred yards, the level crest of the ridge
-was covered by a sparse, wand-like growth that
-was no impediment to the view. Beyond the
-ground fell away again, and just on the edge,
-and rather to my right, stood two enormous
-cotton-woods, the space between them being a
-labyrinth of roots standing thigh-high from the
-ground.</p>
-
-<p>To this point, with what speed and silence I
-could command, I made my way. Midway
-I stopped abruptly to listen. A deep snarling,
-worrying sound filled the air, coming from
-straight ahead. Reaching the nearest root, I
-looked over. The rapidly falling ground
-beyond was hidden by a far-sweeping buttress
-from the tree on my left, which, running
-parallel with the one I stood against, made
-a passage about four feet wide and two high.
-Stealing away to the left, where the nearer root
-sank below the surface, I entered the passage,
-and, on all fours, reached a point midway
-between the two trees. The noise I had before
-heard was now very distinct, and, blending with
-it, yet dominating it, came a continuous buzzing
-sound like the far-away roll of a drum. I knew
-it for the purring of a full-grown leopard.</p>
-
-<p>Looking back, I was glad enough to see
-Tawiah reaching the level. I raised a warning
-hand, and, waiting only to see that he observed
-me, turned, and very cautiously looked over
-the root in front. From where I crouched
-the ground fell away very steeply and
-was bare and stony. Then began a gentler
-slope covered with a low scrub and running
-down into a valley similar to, but larger than,
-the one we had just left. Down the centre
-flowed a stream, the same on whose banks,
-higher up, we had left the dead leopards. I
-was on a kind of spur, round which the stream
-made a bend away to my right. To my left it
-lost itself in an expanse of shallow water covered
-with great water-lilies, which merged in its turn
-into the stream of the Volta, half a mile away.</p>
-
-<p>Just where the change of slope began was a
-great outcrop of rock. About a foot above the
-base, and facing me, was a ragged opening, and
-in this, with both paws hanging over the edge,
-lounged a fine she-leopard. The air hummed
-with her complacent purr, as, with blinking
-eyes, she watched the rough play of two well-grown
-cubs. Presently she rolled over on her
-back, and, with downward-hanging head, struck
-idly with a mighty paw at a white butterfly
-flitting above her. She was the personification
-of soft and sinuous strength.</p>
-
-<p>Suddenly, away to the right, a shot rang out.
-The purring ceased, and instantly the great cat
-was couched, rigid as a bronze casting. Except
-for the tip of her tail, not a muscle moved.
-Presently the tense expression relaxed, and
-with a guttural sort of sigh her head dropped
-on to her paws. But only for an instant.
-The stealthy rustling of something approaching
-reached her ears, and she resumed
-her alert attitude. Then her eyes half closed
-again, and she seemed to go smooth all over.
-A suave, fawning expression came into her face;
-her purring redoubled; she rolled softly on to
-her side and gazed intently in the direction of
-the sound. The noise came nearer, and
-presently, as I expected, her mate appeared.
-He paused for an instant to look back, and
-at that moment Strange’s rifle spoke again, and
-the leopard sank down, biting savagely at his
-hind-quarters. With one movement as it
-seemed, and with a sort of deep-throated cough,
-his consort was by his side, and then began an
-awful duet of snarls and growls, rumblings and
-snufflings, with the cubs for chorus.</p>
-
-<p>It was high time for me to take action; a
-wounded leopard and a leopardess with young
-can make themselves pretty awkward. I aimed
-at the female as being the more dangerous, and
-was about to pull the trigger, when a movement
-in the valley attracted my attention. One of
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_334">334</span>
-the cubs we had first seen was tearing across the
-open, making for the stream. Some distance
-behind followed the other, evidently wounded.
-Close upon him ran Dansani, machete in hand.
-As I looked the cub turned and Dansani struck.
-Nyato was close behind, and level with him,
-but farther out, Otibu Daku stole swiftly with
-long, bent-kneed strides, his “long Dane” gun
-held across his body. Strange was not in sight.</p>
-
-<p>The foremost cub was nearly at the stream
-when he raised a howl of fear or of warning, I
-do not know which. On the instant, from a
-clump of bushes on the farther side, there leapt
-two greyish-white forms. Clearing the stream, they
-charged straight down on the young Ashanti.</p>
-
-<p>All this was photographed on my brain while
-my finger was on the trigger. The scene was
-blotted out as I fired, and from that moment I
-had enough on my hands to occupy my
-undivided attention. The leopardess was
-killed outright. The next instant I fired at
-the male, but one of the cubs gave a jump
-and received the bullet meant for his sire.
-How the brute did it I do not know&mdash;for he
-had a broken thigh-bone&mdash;but next moment the
-old leopard was tearing up the slope towards me,
-and very business-like he looked. I fired again
-and clipped his ear; then his claws were hooked
-on to the root in front of me, and all I could
-do was to smash the butt, pile-driver fashion,
-down upon his head. He seized it in his jaws,
-and the hard wood cracked like pitch-pine,
-while the wrench nearly tore the weapon from
-my grasp. He gave me no time to reverse
-it for another shot, or to draw my revolver.
-Four times did he struggle to draw himself up,
-and but for his broken leg I could not have
-prevented him. Four times, luckily for me, he
-allowed his fury to vent itself on the rifle-butt.
-The struggle only lasted seconds, but it seemed
-hours, and already the fury of it made my
-breath come short.</p>
-
-<p>And then the cub decided to take a hand!
-It had been pacing to and fro, snuffing the
-blood and growling; it then suddenly turned,
-and dashed straight to the scene of combat. A
-leopard cub by itself is not more than a man
-can manage, but as a reinforcement to an
-infuriated parent it is a serious matter. I heard
-Tawiah behind me.</p>
-
-<p>“Take the piccin,” I yelled, and put all my
-strength into an effort to thrust my foe back.
-Instinctively he tried to use his injured leg, and
-this time he lost grip altogether, and his claws
-scraped down the root, making great furrows
-in the wood. I let him have the gun, and
-seized my revolver in time to plant a couple of
-bullets in his head as he came up again.</p>
-
-<p>Meanwhile Tawiah had accounted for the
-cub, but he was badly clawed down the leg.
-To my surprise&mdash;for I did not remember the
-brute using his claws at all except to hold on by&mdash;my
-coat was ripped, and I had several nasty,
-but not severe, scratches down chest and arms.</p>
-
-<p>Our attention was now diverted to the scene
-below, and what we saw sent us both down the
-slope as fast as we could race&mdash;Tawiah ahead.
-One cub lay dead&mdash;Dansani’s victim&mdash;and a few
-paces from it stood the young Ashanti, preparing
-to dodge the foremost of the parent
-leopards I had seen break cover. He sprang
-aside as it reached him, but the brute wheeled
-as if on a pivot and reared. Then came the
-crashing report of the “long Dane,” a fearful
-yell, and Dansani reeled away with his hands
-to his head, and fell. The leopard, roaring
-horribly, rolled over and over, apparently broken
-in two. Its mate, swerving at the report,
-turned and raced straight for Tawiah, who had
-just reached the level ground. I shouted
-to him to come back to me, thinking that
-revolver and spear together would match the
-furious brute, but apparently he did not understand,
-for, waving me to follow, he tore off to
-where, midway between him and the advancing
-leopard, stood a small Dequa palm. His
-object, I learnt afterwards, was to hold the
-leopard at bay there till help arrived. It was a
-mad idea, for the savage brute was covering
-three yards to one of his.</p>
-
-<p>Just at that moment I caught sight of Strange&mdash;hobbling
-along, supported by his rifle, five
-hundred yards away; there was no help to be
-expected from him. Nyato was rushing on to
-settle with the remaining cub, that, screaming,
-was alternately dashing towards its wounded
-dam and back to the stream. Otibu Daku was
-carrying Dansani to the water, and the female
-leopard, her hind quarters straddling like those
-of a frog, with the small of her back blown away
-and reared on her front legs, was rending the
-air with the most awful yells.</p>
-
-<p>The male passed the tree, and only about
-forty yards separated him from my faithful
-follower. I ran on. Trusting to luck, I fired
-two chambers, but without success. The distance
-between them decreased rapidly, and
-Tawiah, seeing the hopelessness of his position,
-grounded his spear, and, gripping it by the
-middle, backed up the butt with his knee in the
-hope that the brute would impale himself. Then
-I saw that Strange was kneeling, taking aim.
-He could never hit a running leopard at that
-range, I told myself; it would appear no bigger
-than a cat to him.</p>
-
-<p>I was twenty yards behind Tawiah, and barely
-ten separated him from the leopard, when a
-ball of smoke floated away from Strange’s rifle.
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_335">335</span>
-I dared not hope, and Tawiah remained like a
-rock. Then, suddenly, the leopard halted, and&mdash;for
-all the world like a kitten chasing its own
-tail&mdash;spun round and round till we could hardly
-tell one end from the other. I sent two bullets
-as near the centre as I could, and Tawiah,
-charging in, drove his spear in at one side and
-out at the other. The battle was over.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a href="images/i022.jpg">
-<img src="images/i022.jpg"
-alt="" /></a>
-<p class="caption">“DANSANI REELED AWAY WITH HIS HANDS TO HIS HEAD, AND FELL.”</p>
-</div>
-
-<p>We found that Strange’s bullet had pierced
-the skin of the neck just where it joins the head,
-and had half stunned the animal. But what a
-glorious shot! I paced the distance to him; it
-was four hundred and sixty odd yards! He had
-made just a little too much allowance for speed,
-but what of that?</p>
-
-<p>Strange, it appeared, had stepped on a loose
-stone and strained his ankle badly. Poor
-Dansani was horribly mauled. The beast had
-clawed him from the crown of his head to the
-knee in one awful sweep. Half the scalp overhung
-his face, one eye was destroyed, the
-muscle of the upper arm was in ribbons, and
-the stroke, glancing from the elbow, had laid
-open his thigh to the knee. A revolver-shot
-finished his assailant. We did what we could
-for Dansani on the spot, and Nyato and his father
-carried him home on a hastily-constructed litter.
-Later he recovered, but was terribly disfigured.</p>
-
-<p>Tawiah and I took it in turns to help Strange
-along, and when we reached the spot where our
-first victims lay we found their young ones
-mewling over them. They slunk away, and we
-did not molest them. The cub Nyato had
-chased allowed self-preservation to triumph over
-filial affection, and got away also. My rifle was
-utterly ruined. And so ended our leopard hunt.
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_336">336</span></p>
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-<h2 id="TURTLE-FARMING">TURTLE-FARMING.<br />
-
-<span class="smcap medium">By H. J. Shepstone.</span></h2>
-
-<blockquote>
-
-<p>An interesting description of the way in which turtles are “farmed” in various parts of the world.
-The most up-to-date and scientifically-conducted of these curious establishments is that of Mr. Hattori,
-in Japan, where the snapping-turtle, the most vicious of his species, is bred and reared.</p></blockquote>
-
-<div>
-<img class="drop-cap" src="images/t.jpg" alt="T" />
-</div>
-
-<p class="drop-cap"><span class="upper-case">That</span> strange creature, the turtle, is
-now receiving the attention of the
-farmer, and is being scientifically
-bred and reared in various parts of
-the world. Indeed, turtle-farming
-on a large scale is now carried on both in Japan
-and in America, while the great palisade enclosures
-on the shores in the West Indies,
-where turtles are confined until wanted for the
-London market, may well come under the same
-designation.</p>
-
-<p>Curiously enough, the species of turtle
-favoured respectively by the Japanese, Americans,
-and by English people are totally different.
-For instance, the Japanese
-farmer gives his attention
-to the propagation of the
-snapping-turtle and
-American to the
-diamond-backed
-terrapin, while
-the turtle soup
-so much prized
-by the wealthy
-and sought after
-by the sick in this
-country is made
-from the green
-turtle of the
-West Indies.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a href="images/i023.jpg">
-<img src="images/i023.jpg"
-alt="" /></a>
-<p class="caption">A GROUP OF YOUNG TURTLES JUST HATCHED.<br />
-<i>From a Photograph.</i></p>
-</div>
-
-<p>The terrapin
-is quite a small
-creature, rather
-flat-backed and
-rounded in outline,
-its scales
-being marked
-by independent
-black patterns
-composed of many geometric
-figures placed one
-within another. At one
-time it was found in
-large quantities in the shallow bays and salt
-marshes along the Atlantic coast from Massachusetts
-to Texas. The discovery that its flesh
-made a delicious stew and an ideal soup,
-however, resulted in the creature being hunted
-so vigorously that to-day it is exceedingly scarce.
-Indeed, whereas a terrapin, seven inches in
-length, could be picked up a few years ago for a
-few cents, it would be difficult to secure one
-to-day for a five-pound note. It was this
-scarcity of the terrapin, and the big demand for
-it among the hotels and restaurants, that have
-led not a few enterprising men to establish farms,
-where these much-sought-after creatures are
-bred and reared for the
-market in large numbers.</p>
-
-<p>The terrapin being
-small, perfectly harmless,
-and requiring
-but a little pond
-of salt water to
-dwell in, there
-is nothing particularly
-exciting
-in farming it.
-Indeed, a terrapin
-“farm” consists
-merely of a
-number of small
-ponds or basins
-in which the
-creatures are
-confined according
-to their age
-and size. Thus,
-in the smaller
-ponds, we discover
-those just
-hatched from
-the eggs&mdash;curious little
-things not much bigger
-than a billiard ball. As
-they breed well, and it is
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_337">337</span>
-not necessary to keep the creature long before
-it is ready for the <i>chef</i>, terrapin farming may be
-described as a fairly remunerative business.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a href="images/i024a.jpg">
-<img src="images/i024a.jpg"
-alt="" /></a>
-<p class="caption">GENERAL VIEW OF MR. HATTORI’S TURTLE-FARM NEAR TOKIO, JAPAN.<br />
-<i>From a Photograph.</i></p>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a href="images/i024b.jpg">
-<img src="images/i024b.jpg"
-alt="" /></a>
-<p class="caption">THE EMBANKMENT OF A “PARENTS’ POND”&mdash;EACH OF THE WIRE CIRCLETS HERE SHOWN COVERS A DEPOSIT OF EGGS.<br />
-<i>From a Photo. by M. Ichikawa, Japan.</i></p>
-</div>
-
-<p>Decidedly more up-to-date are the snapping-turtle
-farms of Mr. Hattori, situated just outside
-Tokio, the capital of Japan. The Japanese
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_338">338</span>
-people will proudly tell you that
-they are the only turtle farms in
-the world, but, as I have already
-shown, this is hardly correct.
-These farms were established
-some few years ago now, and are,
-without question, a great success.
-On an average, Mr. Hattori supplies
-to the hotels and restaurants
-of Japan over sixteen thousand
-turtles a year, while another five
-thousand are shipped to China.
-So far as the farm itself is concerned,
-it consists of a number of
-rectangular ponds, large and
-small, the larger ones having an
-area of fifteen to twenty thousand
-square feet.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a href="images/i025a.jpg">
-<img src="images/i025a.jpg"
-alt="" /></a>
-<p class="caption">YOUNG SNAPPING-TURTLES A FEW DAYS OLD&mdash;THEY
-ARE KEPT IN A SEPARATE ENCLOSURE
-IN ORDER THAT THEIR CANNIBALISTIC ELDERS
-MAY NOT DEVOUR THEM.<br />
-<i>From a Photo. by M. Ichikawa, Japan.</i></p>
-</div>
-
-<p>One or more of the ponds is
-always reserved for large breeding
-individuals, or “parents,” as they
-are called, and one of the assistants
-visits this pond twice a day
-to look out for new deposits of
-eggs. Over these he places a wire
-basket, with the date marked
-upon it. In one of our photographs
-a number of these wire
-baskets may be seen, though
-unfortunately the eggs are not
-shown, being covered with a slight layer of sand,
-this work being done by the turtle itself. The
-covering serves a twofold purpose&mdash;the obvious
-one of marking the place, and, in addition,
-that of keeping other females from
-digging in the same spot. When
-hundreds, or even thousands, of these
-baskets are seen along the bank of a
-“parents’ pond,” the sight is one to
-gladden the heart of an embryologist,
-to say nothing of the proprietor.</p>
-
-<p>The hatching of the eggs occupies,
-on an average, sixty days. The time,
-however, may be considerably shortened
-or lengthened, according to
-whether the summer is hot and the sun
-pours down its strong rays day after
-day, or whether there is much rain and
-the heat not great. As the turtles lay
-sixty eggs to the nest at two sittings, it
-will be seen that in a single season many
-thousands are added to this unique
-establishment, but at least five years must elapse
-before they are large enough for the <i>chef</i>.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a href="images/i025b.jpg">
-<img src="images/i025b.jpg"
-alt="" /></a>
-<p class="caption">CHOPPING UP FOOD FOR THE BABY TURTLES.<br />
-<i>From a Photograph.</i>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_339">339</span></p>
-</div>
-
-<p>One would imagine, remembering the quantities
-of eggs laid by turtles, that they would be
-very plentiful, but there are few creatures that
-have more enemies. All that the mother turtle
-does is to deposit her eggs on the sand of some
-island and there leave them to be hatched out
-by the sun. Before this process is accomplished
-they are often destroyed by rats and birds,
-while very few of those that are hatched survive
-very long. The moment the young turtle
-emerges from its shell it seeks the water, and
-there crabs and various kinds of fish are ever
-ready to devour it. The young just hatched at
-the farm under notice are put in a pond or
-ponds by themselves and given finely-chopped
-meat of a fish like the pilchard, while the bigger
-ones are fed largely on live eels. This feeding
-continues to the end of September. In October
-the snapping-turtle ceases to take food, and
-finally burrows in the muddy bottom of the
-pond to hibernate, coming out only in April or
-May.</p>
-
-<p>Snapping-turtle farming is much more exciting
-than raising the American terrapin. The former
-is a vicious creature and will snap at
-anything&mdash;hence its name. Indeed, in disposition
-it is the very opposite of its American brother.
-It believes most thoroughly in the survival of
-the fittest, and to it the fittest is number one.
-It is a chronic fighter, and inasmuch as its jaws
-are very strong and, like a bulldog, it never knows
-when to let go, it is a reptile to be either mastered
-or avoided. Indeed, the men at Mr. Hattori’s
-farm can tell many exciting little stories concerning
-the voracity of this strange creature.
-One farm hand, for instance, is minus a finger,
-the result of not using sufficient care when
-transferring one of the larger reptiles to a new
-pond.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a href="images/i026.jpg">
-<img src="images/i026.jpg"
-alt="" /></a>
-<p class="caption">FEEDING THE EELS WHICH IN TURN PROVIDE FOOD FOR THE LARGER TURTLES.<br />
-<i>From a Photo. by M. Ichikawa, Japan.</i></p>
-</div>
-
-<p>Many naturalists have visited this unique
-farm and, after a close study of the turtle and
-its habits, have confirmed all the bad qualities
-that have been recorded concerning it. In
-securing its food it shows that it possesses no
-mean intelligence. At one time it crawls slowly
-and silently along with neck outstretched towards
-an unsuspecting fish, springs upon it by a
-powerful thrust of its hind legs, and snaps it up;
-at another time it drives the fish around the
-basin and terrifies it until it falls an unresisting
-victim. Again, the reptile may be observed
-buried in the sandy soil of its prison with only
-its bill and eyes protruding. On the approach
-of a fish the head and long neck dart forth from
-the sand with lightning speed and the prey is
-caught and instantly killed by a savage bite.</p>
-
-<p>In its wild state the snapping-turtle is distinctly
-a nocturnal animal, and does its hunting
-after sunset, when it emerges from its muddy
-home to look for food. In the presence of
-danger it becomes bold, defiant, and even
-desperate. When driven to bay it retracts
-its neck, head, and widely-gaping jaws into
-its shell, awaiting a favourable opportunity
-to thrust them forth slyly and bite savagely.
-Anything which it has seized in its jaws it
-holds with wonderful tenacity, at the same time
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_340">340</span>
-vigorously scratching the earth with its sharp
-claws. There is only one way to catch the
-snapping-turtle, and that is to secure it by the
-tail. Some of the men at Mr. Hattori’s farm
-are very dexterous in seizing their victims in
-this fashion.</p>
-
-<p>A little time ago a Russian officer visited
-the establishment and listened, with some
-incredulity, to the stories of the voracity of the
-reptiles in the ponds before him. He carried
-in his hand a stout cane, and was told to place
-it near one of the bigger animals. He did so,
-and was surprised to find that in a few minutes
-it was bitten clean through. Before now the
-snapping-turtle has been known to bite through
-the flat of an oar. Not only will this turtle
-catch all kinds of fish and frogs and devour
-them greedily, but it is not averse to hunting
-waterfowl. Mr. Hattori declares that, in addition
-to raising turtles, he could rear ducks and geese
-as well, but dare not, as the reptiles would only
-kill them. When a snapping-turtle detects a
-duck it cunningly makes its way towards the
-creature, seizes it by its legs, pulls it down under
-water, and then drags it to the bottom of the
-pond. Here it tears the duck to pieces with
-the aid of the long claws of its fore paws and
-devours it.</p>
-
-<p>It is this snapping propensity which makes it
-desirable to keep the reptiles in ponds according
-to their ages; it would not do to put those just
-hatched in the same basin as the bigger ones,
-as they would quickly be eaten. Until they
-reach their sixth year they are never “mixed.”
-When they reach this age, however, they are
-capable of taking care of themselves and are
-allowed access to the bigger ponds. By this
-time the turtle has reached maturity and may
-begin to deposit eggs, though it is not at its
-prime till two or three years later.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a href="images/i027.jpg">
-<img src="images/i027.jpg"
-alt="" /></a>
-<p class="caption">WEST INDIAN TURTLES ON BOARD A MAIL STEAMER BOUND FOR LONDON&mdash;IN SPITE OF EVERY CARE, THE MORTALITY
-AMONG THEM IS VERY HEAVY.<br />
-[<i>From a Photograph.</i>]</p>
-</div>
-
-<p>What the Japanese epicure prefers are turtles
-not more than five years of age, when the flesh
-is soft and in desirable condition for the making
-of stews and soups. At this age the snapping-turtle
-weighs from sixty to eighty pounds.
-Those that are destined for the table are kept
-in a pond to themselves, and taken as required
-in nets or pulled out of the water by their tails.
-They are then placed in tin boxes or cases with
-air-holes, and sent by train to their destination.</p>
-
-<p>The turtle that is consumed in this country is
-the green species, from the West Indies. The
-creatures are imported by Mr. T. K. Bellis, who
-will not hesitate to tell you that of edible turtles
-the green variety is the best. Mr. Bellis
-imports some three thousand turtles a year.
-They arrive in batches of one hundred or more
-every fortnight by the Royal Mail steamers from
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_341">341</span>
-Kingston, Jamaica, and are obtained from the
-coral reefs lying to the north of the island of
-Jamaica. Twelve to fifteen small schooners are
-employed in the trade, and upwards of a
-hundred and twenty men.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a href="images/i028.jpg">
-<img src="images/i028.jpg"
-alt="" /></a>
-<p class="caption">A CONSIGNMENT OF TURTLES AT A LONDON TERMINUS.<br />
-[<i>From a Photograph.</i>]</p>
-</div>
-
-<p>These fishers of strange “fish” (the turtle’s
-technical name) stretch nets of twine from rock
-to rock, and the moment the turtle feels itself
-entangled it clings tenaciously to the meshes,
-and is then hauled to the surface. The
-schooners in due time return to Kingston with
-from eighty to a hundred and fifty of these
-remarkable creatures, which are promptly
-deposited in palisaded enclosures, flooded at
-every tide by the sea. Here they are fed upon
-a certain kind of herbage known as “turtle
-grass,” and taken as required. The bringing of
-these creatures overseas is a very delicate
-business, and frequently sixty out of a hundred
-perish <i>en route</i>, in spite of the most elaborate
-precautions, such as the constant spraying of
-salt water daily on board the mail steamer, and
-the use of foot warmers for the turtles in the
-railway vans from Southampton to Waterloo.
-Before now, Mr. Bellis has lost eighty-eight
-turtles out of a shipment of a hundred.</p>
-
-<p>This susceptibility to travel is one of the most
-remarkable things about the turtle. If you are
-anxious to transport him alive it is a hundred
-to one he perishes of cold, but if you do succeed
-in getting him home the difficulty then is to kill
-him. The vitality of this strange sea creature
-after decapitation is almost beyond belief. Mr.
-Bellis once sent a large turtle to an hotel in
-Newcastle. The <i>chef</i> cut the turtle’s head off and
-hung the body upside down to bleed. Twenty-four
-hours after that turtle knocked down a man
-cook with one blow of its fin! The green turtle
-is not a vicious creature to handle, like its
-snapping Japanese brother, but its fins are very
-strong, and one blow from them is quite sufficient
-to break a man’s arm.</p>
-
-<p>Mr. Frank T. Bullen gives a remarkable
-instance of the tenacious hold of the turtle upon
-life. “On one occasion,” he records, “our men
-cut all the flesh and entrails of a turtle away,
-leaving only the head and tail attached to the
-shell. Some time had elapsed since the meat
-had been scooped out of the carapace, and no
-one imagined that any life remained in the
-extremities. But a young Dane, noticing that
-the down-hanging head had its mouth wide open,
-very foolishly inserted two fingers between those
-horny mandibles. It closed, and our shipmate
-was two fingers short, the edges of the turtle’s
-jaws had taken them clean off, with only the
-muscular power remaining in the head. Then
-another man tried to cut the horny tail off, but
-as soon as his keen blade touched it on the
-underside it curled up and gripped his knife so
-firmly that it was nearly an hour before the
-blade could be withdrawn.” Signor Redi, the
-great zoologist, records how he once cut a turtle’s
-head off and noted that it lived for twenty-three
-days without a head, and another whose brains
-he removed lived for six months.</p>
-
-<p>The green turtle, the species favoured in this
-country, is not a carnivorous creature, like the
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_342">342</span>
-snapping-turtle, its food being a particular kind
-of sea grass found on the coral reefs in the West
-Indies. Some time ago Mr. Bellis brought a
-large quantity of this grass to London, with the
-idea of feeding the creatures in captivity, but
-they refused to take it. In his cellars in the
-City one can see any day a number of these
-turtles. Here they are kept until a telegram
-arrives from a distant hotel, when away goes the
-turtle to be turned into soup for the forthcoming
-banquet. Those hotels which do not care about
-the trouble of killing the creature can procure
-the soup in tins and bottles direct from the
-importer, and it is not surprising to learn that
-large quantities are sold. It requires eight
-pounds of the best turtle-flesh to make one
-quart of soup.</p>
-
-<p>The green turtle grows to an immense size,
-but it has been found that specimens weighing
-more than a hundred and fifty pounds are not
-desirable, the flesh becoming coarse as the
-animal increases in weight. The shell of this
-variety is practically valueless, but the hawksbill
-turtle yields what is popularly known as
-“tortoiseshell,” and the armour covering of a
-good specimen may be worth eight pounds. Its
-flesh, however, is too coarse for consumption,
-though here it should be added that it is doubtful
-whether those who occasionally partake of
-green-turtle soup would relish that made from
-the flesh of the snapping-turtle.</p>
-
-<p>It is a notorious fact that turtles grow very
-slowly and attain a great age. Curiously
-enough, neither Mr. Hattori nor Mr. Bellis can
-tell to what age a snapping or green turtle will
-live. Mr. Hattori has quite a number of turtles
-that are known to be from thirty to fifty years of
-age, while some of the bigger specimens that
-arrive at Waterloo for the Bellis cellars are, it is
-believed, twelve to fifteen years old.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a href="images/i029.jpg">
-<img src="images/i029.jpg"
-alt="" /></a>
-<p class="caption">TURTLES IN MR. BELLIS’S CELLARS IN THE CITY OF LONDON.<br />
-<i>From a Photo. by Conolly &amp; Goatam.</i>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_343">343</span></p>
-</div>
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="SHORT" src="images/i030a.jpg"
-alt="SHORT STORIES." />
-</div>
-
-<h3>THE AMBASSADOR’S TRUNK.<br />
-
-<span class="smcap medium">By E. A. Morphy, late Editor of the “Straits Times,” Singapore.</span></h3>
-
-<div>
-<img class="drop-cap" src="images/t.jpg" alt="T" />
-</div>
-
-<p class="drop-cap"><span class="upper-case">The</span> circumstances of this little smuggling
-incident, though known to
-several persons in the Far East,
-have hitherto been hidden, so to
-speak, under a bushel. In bringing
-them to the light it should be stated that&mdash;for
-obvious reasons&mdash;fictitious names have been
-given to the individuals
-chiefly concerned, but
-the facts are just as
-stated.</p>
-
-<p>Far and away the most
-distinguished passenger
-on the big German liner
-was the homeward bound
-Japanese Ambassador.
-He did not look the
-part, however. He was a
-squat, unobtrusive little
-man whose trousers fitted
-him badly, and whose
-carriage, when he was
-hampered by European
-clothes, suggested an insignificance
-that was only
-partially belied by the
-intelligence of his homely
-countenance. His appearance
-reflected no radiant
-blaze of glory, yet he
-was returning to his
-native land crowned with
-some of the finest diplomatic
-achievements of the
-century.</p>
-
-<p>This statement is due
-to his Excellency, but
-it practically dismisses him from the story,
-which mainly concerns his trunk&mdash;his trunk
-No. 23, to be precise, for the Ambassador’s
-trunks were all numbered. There must have
-been half a hundred of them at least; all the
-same typical German steel trunks, but distinguished
-from other less important trunks of
-the same make insomuch
-that each one was adorned
-with two broad painted
-bands of scarlet, which
-showed out bravely and
-effectually prevented their
-being mixed up with any
-ordinary baggage. Apart
-from all other considerations,
-the wisdom of the
-Ambassador in thus distinctively
-marking his
-own trunks lay in the fact
-that the process insured
-their instant recognition
-by the Japanese Customs
-officials, by whom they
-were immune from examination.</p>
-
-<p>This last fact was the
-one which counted for
-most with Fritz Vogel,
-steward and trombonist
-of the liner, as he daily
-contemplated the mountain
-of luggage and calculated
-how many Manila
-cigars one of those
-great red-striped trunks
-would hold.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a href="images/i030b.jpg">
-<img src="images/i030b.jpg"
-alt="" /></a>
-<p class="caption">“HE DAILY CONTEMPLATED THE MOUNTAIN OF LUGGAGE
-AND CALCULATED HOW MANY MANILA CIGARS ONE OF
-THOSE GREAT RED-STRIPED TRUNKS WOULD HOLD.”
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_344">344</span></p>
-</div>
-
-<p>Carefully packed, he figured it, one might
-crowd ten thousand cigars into each trunk.
-Ten thousand cigars, at eighty Mexican dollars a
-thousand, meant eighty pounds. Duty at one
-hundred and fifty per cent. <i>ad valorem</i> on eighty
-pounds would mean a hundred and twenty
-pounds, or, as Fritz Vogel calculated, two
-thousand four hundred marks. Therefore, as the
-meditative trombonist further worked out the
-possibilities, his Excellency could, by simply
-loading up a few dozen more trunks with cigars
-at Hong-Kong and getting them passed free
-through the Customs at Yokohama&mdash;or at
-Nagasaki or Kobe for that matter&mdash;make more
-in a week than he could hope to earn in a
-month of Sundays by sticking to the thorny
-paths of diplomacy.</p>
-
-<p>Born west of the Suez, the fertile idea
-germinated in Vogel’s brain all through the
-dreary wastes of the Canal, and sprouted up
-green and vigorous, despite the withering blasts
-that pursued the liner down the Red Sea and
-across the Indian Ocean to Colombo. At
-Singapore it had become an obsession. When
-steaming through the Narrows into the latter
-port, however, on the way to the German mail
-wharf, Vogel observed a red-funnelled Jardine
-liner at the Messageries wharf, with the blue-peter
-flying.</p>
-
-<p>An hour later the <i>Laisang</i> left for China,
-carrying a hastily-written letter from Fritz Vogel
-to his friend Max Krebs at Hong-Kong. It
-contained a fair statement of the salient facts
-in the case, and a crude but lucid sketch of one
-of the pieces of baggage, together with a description
-of the scarlet bands and full measurements.
-It also stated what has not been set forth above&mdash;that
-each of his Excellency’s trunks was numbered
-in large white figures at each end and on
-the top, and it suggested that in the case of any
-person desiring to have access to those trunks
-whilst they were still on board the liner, Nos.
-23, 24, 27, 32, etc., were the easiest to reach.</p>
-
-<p>Mr. Krebs was a “runner” for a native compradoring
-firm. He went out to the ships to
-“drum up” business for his employers, who
-supplied anything and everything that a ship
-could require, from cigarettes to engine-oil. In
-the old days before the Russian War Mr. Vogel
-had done a good deal of trade with Mr. Krebs
-on the short run between Yokohama and Hong-Kong.
-But the stringent Customs regulations
-that had ensued upon the increased tariffs
-imposed after the war had practically killed the
-business, save so far as concerned a paltry bit
-of trading with passengers in faked curios, and
-the occasional disposal of a few imitation gems
-to homeward-bound tourists when the vessel
-was west of Colombo.</p>
-
-<p>Opportunities like the return of an Ambassador
-to Japan did not occur once in a blue moon.</p>
-
-<p>The liner tarried a day and a half over cargo
-at Singapore, and the <i>Laisang</i> got into Hong-Kong
-nearly twenty-four hours ahead of her.
-Mr. Vogel learned the fact the moment the
-German liner arrived at the big China port, and
-his heart was filled with sickening apprehension.
-He had been dreaming of trunks full of cigars&mdash;German
-steel trunks with red bands, and
-numbered with big white characters&mdash;ever since
-he left Singapore. He had marked off the state-room
-wherein, until the proper psychological
-moment, the extra trunks&mdash;if any&mdash;could be
-stored safely. He had mentally arranged every
-other detail in his projected bid for fortune, and
-had even marked down those of his comrades who
-should be selected as his accomplices. He had
-counted over, time and time again, the round
-thousand marks that would be his personal
-profit out of every trunk full of cigars he could
-pass through the Yokohama Customs as the
-baggage of the returning Ambassador. He
-did all this while still faithfully, if mechanically,
-discharging his onerous duties as steward and
-master of the trombone.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a href="images/i031.jpg">
-<img src="images/i031.jpg"
-alt="" /></a>
-<p class="caption">“A NOTE WAS HANDED TO HIM BY A CHINESE MESSENGER.”</p>
-</div>
-
-<p>It was not until a few hours after the arrival
-of the steamer in Hong-Kong&mdash;hours that felt
-like ages&mdash;that Vogel heard from Krebs. A
-note was handed to him by a Chinese messenger
-boy, and Vogel opened it with feverish impatience.
-Mr. Krebs wrote with that laconic
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_345">345</span>
-brevity of diction which indicates the resourceful
-mind. “Will send you one trunk.&mdash;O. K.,”
-it read.</p>
-
-<p>Mr. Vogel pondered for a moment whether
-“O. K.” meant Oscar Krebs or “All correct”
-(American fashion); then he heaved a great
-sigh of relief as he realized that it was all the
-same.</p>
-
-<p>That evening Mr. Krebs came on board
-unostentatiously, and a big trunk wrapped in
-rough sacking came with him, and was temporarily
-stowed
-away by Mr.
-Vogel in one of
-the state-rooms
-which held
-some of the
-Ambassador’s
-spare boxes.
-Thence it was
-subsequently
-carried to
-another cabin,
-where there
-were some spare
-things of Mr.
-Vogel’s. Had a
-hypercritical
-observer subsequently
-studied
-all the trunks
-in the Ambassador’s
-collection
-he might
-have noticed
-that one of them appeared to be the least trifle
-newer than the rest, but it would have taken a
-Sherlock Holmes to detect the circumstance off-hand.
-The trunk in question was numbered
-“23.”</p>
-
-<p>In due time the liner arrived at Yokohama,
-but the mails that had been forwarded overland
-from Nagasaki reached there a day before her.
-Thus it came about that when the Ambassador’s
-baggage was franked through the Custom House
-and sent up to the Imperial Hotel at Tokio, two
-friends of Messrs. Krebs and Vogel were installed
-as guests at the last-named establishment. Thus
-also it came about that, thanks to ten yen well
-spent on a porter, the Ambassador’s trunk,
-No. 23, was whisked away to the nether cellars
-of the hotel the moment it arrived there, and&mdash;as
-the Ambassador himself did at an earlier stage&mdash;it
-virtually passes out of this story. That is
-to say, what must have been the ghost of the
-Ambassador’s trunk vanishes from mortal view;
-but not so the real article. When the diplomat’s
-baggage was supposed to be all in, and a count
-was taken, trunk No. 23 was found to be missing.</p>
-
-<p>The row that ensued was something awful.
-Telegraphs and telephones were called into
-requisition, and imperative, not to say drastic,
-orders were dispatched to the Customs authorities
-at Yokohama, to the railway authorities at
-Shimbashi, and to all other authorities everywhere,
-commanding them to instantly produce
-his Excellency’s missing trunk.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a href="images/i032.jpg">
-<img src="images/i032.jpg"
-alt="" /></a>
-<p class="caption">“THEY HAD PASSED IT AND FORWARDED IT, AND GOT A RECEIPT FOR IT.”</p>
-</div>
-
-<p>The Customs authorities declared they had
-not got the trunk; they had passed it and forwarded
-it, and got a receipt for it. There could
-be no doubt,
-from their point
-of view, that the
-Ambassador
-had taken delivery
-of his
-trunk No. 23.
-The railway
-authorities were
-equally agreed
-on the same
-point. The baggage
-was all in
-special carriages;
-not a
-pin could have
-been lost between
-Yokohama
-and the
-Shimbashi
-station at the
-capital, whence
-it had been
-handed over to
-his Excellency’s servants for removal to the
-hotel. The police authorities were equally
-certain that there had been no hanky-panky
-business of any kind. It would have
-been impossible for one of the Ambassador’s
-trunks to go astray or be stolen, either in the
-streets of the seaport or in the capital itself.
-The steamship authorities had a receipt for every
-article. They knew the Ambassador’s trunks, and
-especial care had been taken of them throughout
-the voyage. Nevertheless, they would again
-investigate.</p>
-
-<p>Then, Banzai! there came a telegram from
-the chief purser of the liner:&mdash;</p>
-
-<p>“<i>Ambassador’s trunk No. 23 found on board.
-Must have been left behind inadvertently. Forwarding
-to Tokio at once.</i>”</p>
-
-<p>The little Custom House inspectors looked
-at the newly-found trunk in utter stupefaction.</p>
-
-<p>“Truly,” said they, “we passed this identical
-trunk not three hours ago.”</p>
-
-<p>“<i>Hayako!</i>” (Hurry, there!) shouted the head
-inspector, as they dallied over the mystery.
-“His Excellency waits!”
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_346">346</span></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a href="images/i033.jpg">
-<img src="images/i033.jpg"
-alt="" /></a>
-<p class="caption">“THE LITTLE CUSTOM HOUSE INSPECTORS LOOKED AT THE NEWLY-FOUND
-TRUNK IN UTTER STUPEFACTION.”</p>
-</div>
-
-<p>The trunk was expressed up to the Imperial
-Hotel by special train.</p>
-
-<p>Ten minutes later the Director of His Imperial
-Majesty’s Customs at Yokohama ordered
-a Commission of Inquiry into the matter
-of the registering as received and delivered
-of one Ambassador’s trunk,
-No. 23, when the same had never
-either been received from the liner or
-delivered to the railway or to any other
-authorities by His Imperial Majesty’s
-Customs. The matter was also taken
-in hand by the Imperial Railway and
-by the Tokio and Kanagawa police
-authorities.</p>
-
-<p>Though a couple of years have passed
-since these investigations were inaugurated,
-no definite finding in the matter
-has yet been officially published. In
-certain quarters, however, there is a consensus
-of opinion that such a trunk did
-really pass through the Yokohama
-Customs, but that it was a phantom one.</p>
-
-<p>Mr. Vogel took away two thousand
-two hundred yen (two hundred and
-twenty pounds) from Yokohama that trip.
-At Hong-Kong, nine days later, he settled
-up with Mr. Krebs.</p>
-
-<p>The cigars and trunk had cost nine
-hundred dollars, while the expenses
-and “commissions” in Japan amounted
-to a trifle less than three hundred dollars.
-There was a balance of a thousand dollars to
-divide, and they duly divided it.</p>
-
-<h3>HALF AN HOUR IN A BLAZING FURNACE.<br />
-
-<span class="smcap medium">By George S. Guy.</span></h3>
-
-<p>One of the most remarkable and appalling
-experiences possible to conceive recently befell
-a young man named Robert Perry, at Apedale,
-in Staffordshire. Tramping about the country
-in search of work, he arrived one night, utterly
-tired out, at an ironworks, and unwittingly took
-shelter in an “air furnace,” used for the purpose
-of reducing very large pieces of iron, too large
-to be dealt with in the ordinary way. As it
-happened, the fire-bars of this particular furnace
-had been taken out, and Perry had no difficulty
-in creeping through the opening and thus
-making his way inside. Here he had to mount
-a wall five feet in height, and eventually reached
-the melting chamber, which at the time contained
-about five tons of iron waiting to be
-smelted. Arrived at this point, in blissful
-ignorance of the dangerous character of the
-place he had selected to sleep in, and appreciating
-only its dryness and seclusion, he lay
-down to rest. Exactly why he should have
-selected such a strange bedchamber it is impossible
-to say, but tramps have been known to
-choose even stranger quarters&mdash;such as lime-kilns
-and brick-kilns. Anyhow, the fact remains
-that he went into the furnace to sleep. What
-happened afterwards is told below, from information
-gathered partly from the man himself and
-partly from other persons who figured in his
-terrible adventure.</p>
-
-<p>After a long walk in the broiling sun Perry
-arrived at Apedale quite exhausted, and set
-about looking for a snug, dry place where he
-could lie down and have a sleep. During his
-weary tramp he had been no stranger to curious
-resting-places, and he had spent the previous
-night under a railway arch. Presently he came
-across the smelting works of the Midland Coal,
-Coke, and Iron Company, and, seeing a furnace
-which he took to be unused, examined it
-intently. The wide, open front of the contrivance
-looked tempting, and he decided to
-make its interior his abode for the night.
-Crawling into the opening for some little distance,
-he discovered that he had a wall five feet
-in height to climb over, but scaled it without
-much trouble. Beyond he found himself in
-pitch-darkness, but clambered cautiously onwards,
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_347">347</span>
-trying to find
-a comfortable place
-to lie down. Proceeding
-up a slope,
-he reached a sort
-of chamber beyond,
-where a number of
-great pieces of iron
-were lying about.
-Here the weary man
-lay down, and,
-being very tired, it
-did not take him
-long to fall asleep.
-Let him tell the
-manner of his
-awakening in his
-own words.</p>
-
-<hr class="tb" />
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a href="images/i034a.jpg">
-<img src="images/i034a.jpg"
-alt="" /></a>
-<p class="caption">FIRE-GRATE WHERE PERRY CRAWLED IN.<br />
-<i>From a Photograph.</i></p>
-</div>
-
-<p>I do not exactly
-know what awoke
-me, but upon trying
-to raise myself a
-frightful choking
-feeling came over
-me, and I became
-conscious of great
-heat. Then, like a
-flash, I realized what
-a dreadful mistake
-I had made, and
-what a terrible
-situation I was in.
-The furnace was <i>not</i>
-disused, and now
-the workmen had lit it, and I was a prisoner
-inside! For a moment I felt sick with horror,
-but it did not take me long to pull myself
-together and try to find a way out.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a href="images/i034b.jpg">
-<img src="images/i034b.jpg"
-alt="" /></a>
-<p class="caption">PLAN OF THE FURNACE&mdash;THE CROSS DENOTES WHERE PERRY SLEPT.</p>
-</div>
-
-<p>The whole place was in total darkness.
-Although I could hear a dull roaring somewhere,
-and feel the waves of heated air and
-fumes passing over me, I could not see the
-slightest sign of any light. Tremblingly I felt
-up and down the
-sides of my prison
-to see if I could find
-a door, but nothing
-of the kind could I
-discover. I tried to
-retreat farther into
-the furnace to get
-away from that awful
-heat, but had to
-return and face it
-again. Now, with
-a sickening heart,
-I saw that flames
-were approaching
-my position. Thinking
-my end was near
-at hand, I decided
-at all costs to go
-down the slope.
-This meant that I
-must face the fire,
-which was now licking
-up towards me,
-sucked inwards by
-the tremendous
-draught. Shivering
-with horror I made
-the attempt, but the
-heat and flames were
-unendurable, and
-beat me back. Then,
-crouching down, I
-worked myself along
-the side, thinking
-this my best plan. At last&mdash;Heaven alone
-knows how&mdash;I reached the foot of the wall.
-In a half-dazed, choking condition, I tried to
-climb up, but was met by a veritable hurricane
-of fierce flames, which knocked me down and
-burnt all the hair off my head. Half-blinded,
-scorched, and with my brain benumbed from
-the effects of the fumes, I still did not quite
-lose heart: something seemed to force me on
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_348">348</span>
-to make a struggle for life. Suddenly, as I
-lay there gasping in that inferno of heat
-and flame, I heard voices outside, but I
-could not understand what was said. I wondered
-dully whether, if I called out, the men
-I could hear speaking would hear me, so,
-in my agony of physical suffering and mental
-distress, I shouted, “O Lord, save me! O
-Lord, save me!” The murmur of voices still
-went on, but presently one man evidently heard
-my cries, and called out to a “Mr. Phillips”
-that he thought he heard a shout for help. This,
-however, Mr. Phillips&mdash;who seemed to be the
-foreman&mdash;ridiculed, and they went on working
-as before.</p>
-
-<p>I was now on the verge of giving up; my
-strength seemed to be failing me, but I decided
-to make one final attempt to get on the wall.
-I am glad to say that it was not in vain, and
-after a desperate struggle I succeeded in reaching
-the top. This seemed to renew my energy,
-and I braced myself for what I knew was my
-last hope. I gave one horrified glance at the
-furnace below, the flames
-roaring and leaping madly,
-and then, with all the strength
-of my fire-scorched lungs, I
-shrieked out once more, “O
-Lord, save me!”</p>
-
-<p>The men outside stopped
-work at once.</p>
-
-<p>“Did you hear that?”
-cried one, excitedly; “I
-heard it quite distinctly that
-time; someone is shouting
-out ‘Lord, save me’!” This
-time Mr. Phillips admitted
-that he <i>did</i> think he heard
-a noise as if someone was
-calling out, but where could
-it come from? It was impossible
-for anyone to be in
-the furnace alive, for the fire
-had been going for some
-time. Then someone else
-said, “Open the fire-door
-and see if you can see anything.”</p>
-
-<p>The fire-door! Where
-was it, I wondered&mdash;far away
-or near at hand? Then, to
-my great joy, I heard them
-releasing a bolt just a few
-feet from where I was. At
-last it opened&mdash;a place about
-a foot square&mdash;and I saw
-daylight streaming in and
-then a man’s face. He peered
-in anxiously, but evidently
-he could not see me, for I was now as black
-as the furnace itself. Then he seemed to half-close
-the door and I nearly swooned away, for
-this was my last chance.</p>
-
-<p>Desperately I strove to shout, but the heat,
-flames, and smoke prevented my uttering a
-sound save a choking gasp. Fortunately for
-myself, however, I moved, and the watcher
-happened to catch sight of something about me&mdash;probably
-the whites of my eyes shining in
-the reflected light. “Good God!” he cried.
-“There’s a man in the furnace! Pull the bars
-out as quickly as you can.”</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a href="images/i035.jpg">
-<img src="images/i035.jpg"
-alt="" /></a>
-<p class="caption">“I FOUND MYSELF FALLING&mdash;RIGHT ON TO THE HUGE FIRE.”
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_349">349</span></p>
-</div>
-
-<p>I did not trouble to
-think what or where
-the bars were; I knew
-only that the men had
-seen me and would do
-everything in their power
-to get me out. I heard
-them pulling the bars
-out in frantic haste,
-and saw Mr. Phillips
-trying to squeeze himself
-through the small
-fire-door.</p>
-
-<p>With my flesh scorching
-and my breath
-rapidly failing me in
-that awful whirlwind of
-heat and flame, I put
-my arms down for him
-to catch hold of. He
-seized me by the elbows
-and told me to jump,
-but this I could not do,
-for I felt too far gone.
-With that he gave me
-a jerk, and I found
-myself falling&mdash;right on
-to the huge fire! The
-bars were out, and the
-fire was keeping itself together by the pressure
-of one block of coal on another; but when
-my weight came upon it, it collapsed, sending
-up a rush of flames
-all around me. To
-my intense horror, I
-felt the skin on my
-arms giving way, but
-the courageous Mr.
-Phillips did not
-release his hold. His
-hands were now on
-my wrists, and, exerting
-all his strength, he
-pulled me up towards
-the door.</p>
-
-<p>The pain of my
-burns was simply fearful,
-and I could have
-shrieked with agony,
-but somehow, except
-for a few moans, I
-kept quiet.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a href="images/i036a.jpg">
-<img src="images/i036a.jpg"
-alt="" /></a>
-<p class="caption">ROBERT PERRY AS HE APPEARED AFTER HIS DISCHARGE FROM
-THE INFIRMARY.<br />
-[<i>From a Photograph.</i>]</p>
-</div>
-
-<p>Presently the foreman
-succeeded in
-pulling me out of the
-small door, but I felt
-as if dead, and as
-though I was shrivelling
-up and growing
-smaller. As I lay on
-the ground, in agonizing
-pain, I appealed to the
-men to strangle me.
-Again and again, in semi-delirium,
-I repeated the
-request: “I’m done for!
-Strangle me! strangle
-me!” My whole body
-seemed to be on fire,
-but my rescuers lost no
-time. Procuring some
-oil, they saturated me
-with it, thus, in a measure,
-soothing the pain. Then
-they got me on to an
-ambulance and rushed
-me off to the Chell
-Infirmary, where I received
-every care and
-attention.</p>
-
-<p>Never, so long as I
-live, shall I forget the
-terrible time I endured
-in the furnace, and my
-unspeakable joy when I
-saw Mr. Phillips at the
-fire-door.</p>
-
-<hr class="tb" />
-
-<p>I am indebted to Mr. Hill, the general
-manager of the above-mentioned company, for
-a plan of the furnace. It may be interesting
-to add that, even had
-Perry contrived to
-shelter himself from
-the flames at the foot
-of the wall he mentions,
-he would very
-soon have met with a
-death too awful to
-contemplate, as the
-molten iron would
-have flowed down and
-overwhelmed him. The
-authorities inform me
-that Perry’s adventure
-is altogether unprecedented
-in the whole of
-their experience. At
-the moment when his
-first cry was heard the
-furnace had been alight
-for some considerable
-time, having been
-started with a large
-quantity of wood and
-many barrow-loads of
-hot coal in order to
-raise the heat quickly!</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a href="images/i036b.jpg">
-<img src="images/i036b.jpg"
-alt="" /></a>
-<p class="caption">MR. PHILLIPS STANDING BY THE FIRE-DOOR THROUGH WHICH PERRY
-WAS DRAGGED.<br />
-[<i>From a Photograph.</i>]
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_350">350</span></p>
-</div>
-
-<h3>THE HEADLESS WOMAN.<br />
-
-<span class="smcap medium">By Charles Needham.</span></h3>
-
-<p>I had just recovered from a troublesome
-throat affection, and under the doctor’s orders
-had moved out of town for a spell of fresh air
-and quieter surroundings, selecting the little
-village of Canewdon, in South-East Essex, as my
-retreat. I had always had an eye on the village,
-first making its acquaintance whilst yachting off
-the coast and in the River Crouch, where my
-boat had its permanent berth.</p>
-
-<p>Canewdon is actually little more than a straggling
-hamlet four miles by road to the north of
-Rochford, and about nine from Southend-on-Sea.
-It required only a very short residence
-there for me to find that the secluded little place
-considered it had its own corner in history, and
-a very pretty turn in folk-lore and superstition as
-well. To begin with, Canewdon claims King
-Canute as one of its founders, and its domestic
-romances and tragedies would make a presentable
-volume in the hands of a scribbling
-antiquary. It had, however, something more
-than mere history, and far less to my liking, for
-me to feed my imagination upon, as I was soon
-to discover.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a href="images/i037.jpg">
-<img src="images/i037.jpg"
-alt="" /></a>
-<p class="caption">THE OLD COTTAGE AT CANEWDON IN WHICH THE AUTHOR RESIDED.<br />
-<i>From a Photograph.</i></p>
-</div>
-
-<p>After a good look round I settled upon a
-comfortable old cottage, with a small garden
-traversed by a brook, only a very short distance
-from the ancient, square-towered church. Into
-this, having taken it at a very moderate rental,
-I moved a small amount of furniture, my books,
-and other paraphernalia, and prepared to settle
-down to the life of a hermit for a time. The
-woman who came from close by to “do” for
-me looked upon me, I fancy, as something of a
-curiosity, but, for some reason I had not then
-discovered, she seemed a little uneasy at my
-solitary existence. She would remark that I
-must be lonely, or that it was unlikely that I
-should stop in the place very long. I put all
-this down to a friendly disposition, coupled with
-a desire to draw me out as to my place in the
-larger world I had dropped from so suddenly.</p>
-
-<p>For the first day or two matters went
-smoothly enough, and I began to feel that
-my choice of locality had been a lucky and
-inexpensive one. Then something occurred
-which startled me sufficiently to make me alter
-my opinion.</p>
-
-<p>I always used the little kitchen at meal-times
-for convenience’ sake, and one night I remained
-there reading until very late, the kitchen being
-lit only by one small lamp at my back. I had
-just closed my book&mdash;it was about one o’clock&mdash;and
-was summoning the effort required to take
-me bedwards, when I noticed a very slight
-movement of the iron latch upon the door
-leading into the back garden. My thoughts
-naturally flew to burglars. The locality was
-lonely, and no doubt my coming had been duly
-talked over in the village with all the exaggeration
-and surmise an out-of-the-way place is
-capable of.</p>
-
-<p>I was, of course, considerably startled, and
-sat watching the latch slowly rise, evidently
-actuated by a very delicate and even pressure
-from without. The door itself was bolted at
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_351">351</span>
-both top and bottom, and when the latch had
-risen clear of the hasp I fully expected to hear
-the bolts rattle as the person outside put his
-weight against the door to try it. But nothing
-of the sort happened; the latch, after remaining
-suspended for a moment, fell back again into
-place as slowly and evenly as it had risen.</p>
-
-<p>Startled and puzzled as I was, I still held to
-my belief that this must be a timid attempt at
-robbery, and that, finding the back door locked,
-the intruder would try the front one also. Nor
-was I wrong, for I had scarcely slipped quietly
-into the sitting-room and taken up my position
-when the latch there began to rise in precisely
-the same manner. This door possessed only
-one bolt, and that at the bottom, so that
-the door, an old and ill-fitting one, would
-show the slightest pressure at once. But
-none was placed upon it, and the latch fell
-into place as evenly and noiselessly as before.
-By this time I must confess to being slightly
-scared, and when a chair banged heavily on the
-floor and a loud shout of “Who’s that?”
-brought no sound of a retreating shuffle on the
-cobble-stones outside, I had to summon all my
-remaining courage to unbar and fling open the
-door. Not a soul or a sound met me as I
-stepped outside. The night was a light one in
-early September, so that a retreating figure could
-have been followed by the eye for twenty or
-thirty yards. After a careful look round the
-garden I went to bed nonplussed at the
-weirdness of the whole affair.</p>
-
-<p>The following day brought another intruder&mdash;a
-material one this time. I found that during
-the morning a travelling caravan had taken a
-pitch just outside my hedge; and its owner
-turned out to be an Oxford man, who, with his
-wife, was leading a vagabond life about the
-shires. He was an extremely well-read man,
-and we soon got on the best of terms, exchanging
-books and opinions, till he inspanned for pastures
-new a week later. The night before he left I
-was treated to another queer happening.</p>
-
-<p>We had been talking and reading in my tiny
-sitting-room till about eleven o’clock, when my
-vagabond friend bade me a sleepy “Good night”
-and opened the front door. He had, however,
-only just put his foot on the cobbles when he
-stepped backwards with a sharp exclamation,
-and a scared look on his face.</p>
-
-<p>“What’s up?” I asked.</p>
-
-<p>“It’s awfully queer,” he replied; “I could
-have sworn I saw a face looking straight at me
-close to that bush”&mdash;he pointed to the privet
-hedge at the left of the door&mdash;“but there didn’t
-seem to be any body to it. I’m certainly not
-drunk, but I may have been dreaming.”</p>
-
-<p>After my recent experience, which I had not
-thought it worth while to mention to such a
-hard-headed soul as my chance companion, I
-felt anything but comfortable. We were both
-rather ashamed of our brief lapse from common
-sense, and laughed the incident off as best we
-might.</p>
-
-<p>The following day found me in all the doubtful
-glory of my solitude once more, and I must
-confess to having been thankful when an invitation
-reached me that same evening, from friends
-at Fambridge, for a few days’ fishing.</p>
-
-<p>I have never suffered from that popular
-present-day malady known as “nerves,” possibly
-because of an open-air existence with plenty of
-exercise, but, though I had only been there a
-short time, the cottage and the locality now
-seemed to have become almost uncanny to me.
-Had I mixed more with the inhabitants, I
-should have discovered, as I did later, that this
-strange feeling was not without some foundation.</p>
-
-<p>The few days I spent in Fambridge put all
-thought of the two queer incidents out of my
-mind, which will show that the subsequent
-events were not the outcome of an overtaxed
-imagination or a course of long brooding upon
-disquieting phenomena.</p>
-
-<p>It must have been about nine o’clock in the
-evening that my Fambridge friend put a little
-Welsh pony into his governess-car to drive me
-back the four odd miles to my cottage. The
-night was fine, but there were clouds about and
-no moon, so that objects outside the radius of
-the lamps were hard to distinguish. The pony
-had already had a fairly hard day of it along the
-coast, but he was a sturdy little beast and pulled
-like a steam-engine, rattling us down to the outskirts
-of Canewdon in excellent time.</p>
-
-<p>We had been bowling along, talking about the
-day’s sport, and were now rapidly nearing a stile
-leading to a footpath upon the left of the road,
-which takes one by a short cut across a field,
-over another stile, into the churchyard, and so
-into the village High Street. We had barely
-reached the stile when the pony pulled up short,
-reared, and refused to go another step in that
-direction. The pony, always a strong and
-willing little chap, had never done such a thing
-in his life before, and my friend was not only
-puzzled but annoyed. A sound beating had no
-more effect than words of encouragement; there
-the little beggar stuck, his four legs splayed out,
-the picture of all that was most stubborn in
-nature, whilst we two sat in the car trying to
-devise some plan by which to budge him.</p>
-
-<p>My friend was at last obliged to ask me to
-take the short cut I have just spoken of instead
-of being driven round by the road the remaining
-mile and a half to my cottage. I was, of course,
-willing enough. The short cut would take me
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_352">352</span>
-barely ten minutes, and I had very little to
-carry; so, bidding him “Good night,” I jumped
-out. As I came from behind the trap I noticed
-a tiny flickering light a few yards ahead, upon
-the left-hand side of the road, but it was very
-dim and did not arrest my attention sufficiently
-to make any impression on the mind. I was
-able to lead the pony round without any
-difficulty, and when his head faced Fambridge
-he seemed to recover his spirits at once, and
-the red points behind the lamps receded at a
-rattling pace up the road. When these had
-disappeared I turned again to climb the stile,
-but became at once uneasily
-conscious of something
-unusual a little way
-ahead of me.</p>
-
-<p>The spot the pony had
-refused at was a good
-deal shadowed by large
-elms, and these, together
-with the cloudy sky,
-made the road still more
-obscure. The small light,
-which I had taken little
-notice of at first&mdash;thinking
-it probably one of
-the village lights showing
-through the trees&mdash;was
-still ahead; only, instead
-of being upon the left of
-the road, it was now upon
-the right. For a few
-seconds I stood looking
-at it, feeling very much
-like turning tail and bolting
-down the road. The
-flame, for it was no other,
-showed greeny&mdash;white
-against the black background
-and shivered in
-a strange, eerie way.</p>
-
-<p>The most extraordinary
-part of the business
-was that it seemed to
-come from nothing
-visible, but to appear,
-as it were, burning in
-space three or four feet
-above the road.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a href="images/i039.jpg">
-<img src="images/i039.jpg"
-alt="" /></a>
-<p class="caption">“THIS MYSTERIOUS SOMETHING TOOK THREE RAPID STRIDES ACROSS THE ROAD AND
-DISAPPEARED.”</p>
-</div>
-
-<p>I had, of course, read
-ghost stories in which
-“corpse candles” and
-ghostly lights of one
-sort and another
-figured largely, but I
-had never expected to
-come across one, and
-this could be translated
-in no other way.<a id="FNanchor_2" href="#Footnote_2" class="fnanchor">2</a> The close proximity of the
-churchyard, with the square tower of the church
-itself showing through the trees, added too
-much colour to the scene to my liking; but,
-scared though I was, a certain fascination took
-hold of me, and I advanced a step or two in
-order to examine the phenomenon at closer
-range. I had scarcely taken two paces, however,
-when the clouds parted a little, giving a
-better light beneath the trees, and at the same
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_353">353</span>
-moment the weird flame flickered wildly and
-went out.</p>
-
-<div class="footnote">
-
-<p><a id="Footnote_2" href="#FNanchor_2" class="label">2</a>
-The light somewhat resembled the <i>ignis fatuus</i>, or will-o’-the-wisp,
-but was larger and greener in colour. Moreover, there was
-no pond or marshy ground anywhere near the road.</p></div>
-
-<p>But this was not to be the end of my ghostly
-experience. The stronger light brought many
-roadside objects into prominence, and the
-moment the flame disappeared I became conscious
-of an indistinct black blotch against the
-lighter background of the hedge. It was, of
-course, too dark for me to be certain of its
-exact shape, even had I been in a calm enough
-state of mind to take in details; but in any case
-I was allowed only a momentary glimpse, for
-whilst I stood with the breath caught in my
-throat, this mysterious something took three
-rapid strides across the road and disappeared
-without a sound into the thick hawthorn hedge
-opposite.</p>
-
-<p>At this stage I must confess to having lost all
-control of myself. Without another look I took
-to my heels and ran, as though all the powers of
-darkness were behind me.</p>
-
-<p>The scare I had got made me quite oblivious
-of my direction, but I suppose natural instinct
-guided me, for I found myself at last, almost
-pumped out, trotting into the little High Street
-of Canewdon by the road along which I should
-have driven, and no doubt in far better time.
-I had no relish, in my then state of mind, for
-another lonely night in the cottage, although it
-stood only fifty yards away, so I made my way
-to the Chequers, the only inn the village possessed,
-and asked for a bed.</p>
-
-<p>My recent arrival in the place had given me
-little time to become acquainted with the village
-notables, but I fancy the landlady knew me by
-sight, and no doubt thought the request strange.
-In any case her “Certainly, sir,” was followed
-by a close scrutiny. “You’re looking very queer,
-sir,” she added; “has anything happened?”</p>
-
-<p>Surrounded by more human elements, I began
-to feel thoroughly ashamed of myself, and rather
-doubted the wisdom of giving the narrative away;
-but the thought that, perhaps, being a resident,
-she might be able to throw some light upon my
-weird experience finally decided me to make a
-clean breast of the whole affair; and I promptly
-did so in the little inn-parlour.</p>
-
-<p>I had barely got half-way through the incident
-upon the road when she sat back in her chair,
-and said in a quiet, almost matter-of-fact
-tone:&mdash;</p>
-
-<p>“You’ve seen the headless woman, sir.”</p>
-
-<p>“The headless woman?” I asked, startled.
-“Who’s she?”</p>
-
-<p>“I may as well tell you,” she replied, “though
-we don’t talk of it much here. Have you noticed
-a wooden house painted white, and standing
-alone about a hundred yards this way from the
-stile on the Fambridge road?”</p>
-
-<p>I said that I had, and thought it was a farmhouse.</p>
-
-<p>“Well, so it was till the murder happened,”
-replied the woman. “The story goes that somewhere
-about forty years ago a farmer there took
-to drink, went mad, and murdered his wife. He
-didn’t stop at that, either, for he cut off her head
-and buried it, and it wasn’t found till some time
-after the body had had decent burial.”</p>
-
-<p>“So she’s supposed to haunt the place?” I
-asked.</p>
-
-<p>“There’s no suppose about it, sir,” she
-replied, very quietly; “a tidy few people here
-have seen her, much the same as you did. My
-husband has, too, by the stile leading into the
-churchyard. It took him a week in bed to get
-over it. Sometimes it’s just a face, and sometimes
-just a black bundle like a body without a
-head; but always near one of them two stiles,
-and round about harvest time. Heaven send I
-never see the sight!” she concluded, devoutly.</p>
-
-<p>“I’m not particularly anxious to renew the
-acquaintance myself,” I replied, “but how do
-you account for the lifting of my latch?”</p>
-
-<p>“Well, I can’t say for certain, sir, but, if my
-memory serves me, there was a gaffer living in
-your cottage&mdash;he’s dead now many a year&mdash;who
-used to work at the White House and was there
-when the murder happened. He saw her pretty
-often in his garden, I’m told, but couldn’t be
-got to speak of it. It may be she walks there
-too.”</p>
-
-<p>I spent a very mixed kind of night at the inn,
-and on the following day returned to Fambridge
-and less ghostly company. From here I made
-arrangements for a change of quarters, and from
-that day to this I have not set eyes upon
-Canewdon, nor have I any inclination to do so.</p>
-
-<p>This strange happening is perhaps too strange
-for everybody’s belief. My “spirituous” state
-at the time is an opinion largely held by chaffing
-friends; but I ask that three points be taken
-into consideration. I am practically a teetotaller;
-my imagination is no more abnormal
-than that of most of my fellows; and, lastly, no
-whisper of ghostly visitations in the village had
-reached my ears prior to the narrative as told
-by the landlady.</p>
-
-<p>The whole affair would make an interesting
-little piece of investigation for the Psychical
-Research Society.
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_354">354</span></p>
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="SOME_SAVAGE_PASTIMES" src="images/i041.jpg"
-alt="SOME SAVAGE PASTIMES" />
-<h2><span class="hidden">SOME SAVAGE PASTIMES.<br /></span>
-<span class="smcap medium">By E. Way Elkington</span>, F.R.G.S.</h2>
-</div>
-
-<blockquote>
-
-<p>Savages, big and little, play games like
-other folk, and some of their methods
-of amusing themselves are very curious
-indeed. Mr. Elkington has made a
-collection of the least-known and most
-peculiar pastimes, and here describes
-and illustrates them.</p></blockquote>
-
-<div>
-<img class="drop-cap" src="images/t.jpg" alt="T" />
-</div>
-
-<p class="drop-cap"><span class="upper-case">Throughout</span> the world there is
-a peculiar similarity in the games of
-the human race, and undoubtedly
-they all spring from the same sources,
-being the result of imitation, by
-children, of the duties and pleasures of the
-elder generation. In the savage races, however,
-we find them in their most primitive and
-interesting state, and in this article I propose
-to describe a few of the least known and most
-peculiar&mdash;some which I have myself witnessed,
-and others that I have collected from well-known
-travellers.</p>
-
-<p>As with ourselves, it is not only the children
-who play, and the pastimes of their grown-up
-brothers are equally interesting. Naturally
-the games of the elders require more skill, and
-in some cases considerably more endurance and
-fortitude. For instance, the whip game, played
-by the red-men of British Guiana, is one that
-calls forth the most enduring qualities of these
-sturdy natives, and is an ordeal in which few
-Englishmen would care to take part. The
-origin of it is not known; some say that it was
-originally an act in a burial scene, but more
-probably it is a festival game.</p>
-
-<p>For all functions in Guiana a copious supply
-of drink is prepared, the local name of which is
-“paiwarie.” This is a native-made fermented
-liquor, which has the desired effect, in its preliminary
-stages, of putting the drinkers into a good
-humour. After a certain quantity of “paiwarie”
-has been handed round, the players of the whip
-game, men and boys, line up in two rows facing
-one another; each is provided with a whip ornamented
-with fibre tassels, those of the two end
-players having whistles attached. When all is
-ready a gentle stamping is commenced, which
-gradually grows louder and louder till the earth
-begins to throb and the players show signs of
-getting worked up. Then shouts of “Yau,
-au!” are heard, and the now excited players
-wave their whips and sway gently backwards
-and forwards as they stamp their feet. Presently
-the two end men with the whistles attached
-to their whips pass down the centre of
-the row, whilst those lined up move slowly
-in an opposite direction. Now the stamping
-increases and the whistlers whistle at each
-other in wild excitement. Then they begin
-waving their whips at one other, feigning to
-strike with tremendous force, but finally they
-come down on their opponents’ calves with only
-a mere touch. After this has gone on for some
-time the two leaders run back to their original
-places at the head of the row, and others go out
-and do as they have done.</p>
-
-<p>When all the players have gone through this
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_355">355</span>
-exhibition the real business begins; so far it has
-only been play.</p>
-
-<p>The women now come on to the scene
-bearing calabashes of wine, which is greedily
-swallowed, and then two of the players challenge
-each other to a real whipping competition.</p>
-
-<p>Silence soon prevails, and the onlookers take
-up their places ready to watch this extraordinary
-ordeal.</p>
-
-<p>As soon as the challenge has been accepted
-the two men step out in front of the audience
-and stand facing each other. As a rule they
-are splendidly-built fellows, and as they wear
-practically no clothing for this ceremony, their
-physical development is very noticeable.</p>
-
-<p>Cautiously they judge their distance, letting
-the lash of the whip just touch their adversary’s
-calf. When they have thoroughly satisfied
-themselves that they can get a perfect swing,
-one of them stands firmly, half turned away
-from the other, who immediately swings his
-whip with tremendous force and brings it down
-on his opponent’s calf with a crack like the report
-of a gun.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a href="images/i042.jpg">
-<img src="images/i042.jpg"
-alt="" /></a>
-<p class="caption">THE EXTRAORDINARY “WHIP GAME” OF BRITISH GUIANA&mdash;THE COMPETITORS SLASH AT ONE ANOTHER’S BARE LEGS IN
-TURN, OFTEN CUTTING DEEP INTO THE FLESH.<br />
-[<i>From a Photograph.</i>]</p>
-</div>
-
-<p>The man who has received this blow, though
-it has in all probability cut right into his calf,
-does not flinch, but joins the whipper in a wild
-sort of dance, accompanied by loud shouts of
-“Yau, au!” Again the same man presents his
-calf to be cut at, again the lash descends, and
-more dancing follows, until it is time for the
-other man to go through the same ordeal. When
-he has had his share the two adjourn to the hut
-and indulge freely in “paiwarie,” and other
-players take their places, until all the grown-ups
-have tasted of the delights of the game. The
-younger fry then step forth and challenge each
-other. Women, of course, do not take any active
-part in this weird performance beyond handing
-round the drinks.</p>
-
-<p>Though this is rather a strenuous game, there
-are many less painful ones with which the
-children amuse themselves. One of these,
-called the “Jaguar Game,” is similar to our own
-“Fox and Geese.” A long procession of boys
-line up and grip each other by the shoulders,
-and sway backwards and forwards crying out,
-“There is no jaguar to-day!” Whilst they are
-singing this merrily, a youngster bears down upon
-them from his hiding-place amongst the onlookers.
-He comes running along on his hands and one
-leg, the other leg being raised in the air to
-represent the tail of the jaguar. On his appearance
-the whole line of boys is thrown into
-confusion; they grow wildly excited and swerve
-and sway, and dodge round, always keeping in a
-long, snake-like line, with the foremost boy facing
-their adversary, the jaguar. It is the jaguar’s
-duty to catch the last one in the row and bear
-him off to his lair.</p>
-
-<p>Sometimes this game is varied by the jaguar
-having two young cubs with her, who also run
-on “all threes”; they add greatly to the excitement
-of the sport by snapping, snarling, and
-generally behaving as young cubs should. The
-game goes on till all the row has been captured.
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_356">356</span></p>
-
-<p>In the “Monkey Game” laughter reaches its
-highest point, for this is one of the wildest they
-play; and not only the children indulge in it,
-but the grown-up men sometimes take it into
-their heads to play it, when it assumes a very
-different aspect. With the children it is pure
-fun, with little or no danger attaching to it.</p>
-
-<p>A crowd of youngsters line up and move
-about like monkeys who are merely enjoying
-themselves. Suddenly one of them stops and
-gives vent to a shriek of fear; the others take
-up the cry and immediately break their line
-and run wildly all over the place, chattering
-excitedly. When the simulated panic is at its
-height the smaller boys spring on to the backs of
-the bigger ones,
-and are raced about
-all over the place
-till fatigue puts an
-end to the fun.
-When their elders
-play the “Monkey
-Game,” however,
-they often become
-so worked up that
-they really behave
-like a crowd of
-monkeys gone
-stark, staring mad.</p>
-
-<p>Sir Everard F. im
-Thurn, K.C.M.G.,
-at present Governor
-of Fiji, to whom I
-am indebted for
-the photographs of
-these Guiana
-games, relates a
-most trying experience
-he went
-through during one
-of these mad frolics.
-He says that the
-players suddenly
-burst in amongst the huts, swarmed up the
-roofs, tearing great mouthfuls of thatch away in
-their flight, and then dashed into the rooms,
-upsetting everything they came across and
-destroying food and furniture. “The old man
-of the settlement and his wife, in real anxiety
-for their goods, tried to protect what they
-could, tearing it even from out of the
-’monkeys’’ hands or throwing food to them
-to distract their attention from more valuable
-property. At last, with the help of two bystanders,
-the old man secured the more violent
-of the players, and, despite some too genuine
-scratchings and bitings, managed to fasten them
-by ropes round their loins, monkey-wise, to the
-posts of houses. At last five had been so caught
-and tied in one house; and then, if there had
-been uproar before, there was pandemonium
-now. The captives screamed and shrieked and
-yelled; they rolled as far as their cords would
-allow, and tore with their teeth everything that
-came in their way: food, clothes, hammocks,
-pans, and calabashes.... The whole mighty
-uproar only ceased when all were literally too
-tired to do more.”</p>
-
-<p>This quaint instance of a game running away
-with its players seems strange to us, but
-probably if a savage saw some of our football
-matches he, too, might think the players had
-suddenly gone mad.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a href="images/i043.jpg">
-<img src="images/i043.jpg"
-alt="" /></a>
-<p class="caption">THE “SHIELD GAME,” IN WHICH THE COMPETITORS ENDEAVOUR TO PUSH ONE
-ANOTHER OVER&mdash;TRIBAL DISPUTES ARE OCCASIONALLY SETTLED WITHOUT
-BLOODSHED BY CHOSEN TEAMS.<br />
-[<i>From a Photograph.</i>]</p>
-</div>
-
-<p>The “Shield Game” is another pastime of the
-grown-up natives.
-In this each man
-is provided with a
-strong shield made
-of palm-leaf stalks.
-Armed with this
-he faces his opponent.
-After much
-preliminary stamping
-and feigning
-they close and a
-mighty struggle
-commences, in
-which each man
-endeavours to push
-his adversary back.
-It is a kind of tug-of-war
-reversed.
-Besides being a
-game, it is often
-used as a means
-to settle disputes,
-in which, of course,
-the strongest man
-wins. The accompanying
-photograph
-gives an
-excellent idea of
-the pastime. Occasionally when tribes fall out a
-whole line of experts are chosen from each side,
-and the dispute is settled without bloodshed by
-the success of either side. It will be gleaned
-from this that the quality of “pushfulness” has
-an added value in British Guiana.</p>
-
-<p>To go back to the games of children and also
-to jump a few thousand miles to the west, we
-find some interesting and curious pastimes
-among the aboriginals of Australia, where the
-young idea copies the ways of its fathers and
-makes games of their serious ceremonies.
-Amongst other things they play at marriage,
-taking some of the romantic details prior to the
-ceremony to make their game. In some parts
-of Australia an aboriginal has first to catch his
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_357">357</span>
-wife before he can marry her, and the youngsters
-have probably heard from their mothers that
-this was not always the easiest thing to do,
-for there may have been others anxious to wed
-her&mdash;provided always that she was a good
-worker, looks being of small account. So the
-children have taken all these things into consideration
-and made their game from them.</p>
-
-<p>As these aborigines have no proper villages,
-but live in shelters thrown together in the most
-primitive fashion, the children choose a spot in
-the bush where Nature has made a sort of
-covering; they then congregate and imitate
-grown-up people, chattering about nothing in
-particular, whilst the young man hovers round in
-the bush. Suddenly he bears down on the
-players and attempts to abduct one of the girls.
-This arouses the others, who all try to stop him,
-and one of the young gallants attacks the would-be
-abductor and a mock fight ensues, the
-winner bearing the maiden off in triumph to
-the bush.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a href="images/i044.jpg">
-<img src="images/i044.jpg"
-alt="" /></a>
-<p class="caption">AN AUSTRALIAN ABORIGINAL CORROBOREE<br />
-<i>From a Photo. by permission of the Queensland Government.</i></p>
-</div>
-
-<p>Amongst the men there are few real games;
-they all seem to take life rather seriously, and
-as soon as they are grown up they devote their
-whole time to obtaining food and taking part in
-the numerous religious ceremonies, some of
-which are most elaborate and trying functions.
-To us these may appear very like games, but to
-the aborigines they are particularly sacred. Of late
-years, however, they have turned one or two of
-these ceremonies into dances or corroborees,
-but probably this has been done to amuse the
-whites and extract money from them&mdash;like the
-Maoris, who now dance the “Haka” as if it were a
-spectacular dance for the benefit of the Pakeha.
-With the coming of civilization and peace
-some phases of its serious import have gone.
-The photograph given above shows Australian
-aborigines performing the kangaroo dance,
-which is a modified exhibition of one of their
-ancient ceremonies. It is not an exciting affair,
-nor beautiful, as these savages are not adepts
-at dancing. All they do is to crawl about,
-stamping and gesticulating, whilst the man
-dressed as a kangaroo goes backwards and forwards
-and up and down the line with a sort of
-high-stepping action. This kangaroo dance at
-one time had a significant meaning, and was
-probably danced in connection with an old-time
-legend, but, like many similar ceremonies,
-it is now carried on simply because the
-ancestors of the present generation taught it.
-This in itself would be quite sufficient to keep
-the most absurd custom alive, for ancestors are
-held in great reverence amongst savages.</p>
-
-<p>One of the most amusing games I have ever
-witnessed in savage lands was in New Zealand,
-where I saw a crowd of children dancing an
-imitation “Haka.” The “Haka,” when danced
-seriously by grown-ups, is a most awe-inspiring
-and thrilling exhibition which stirs every
-nerve in your body; but when children
-dance it, it becomes a grotesque and laughable
-affair. The Maoris, men, women, and
-children, have a well-developed sense of
-humour, which is more than most savages have,
-and the word “savage” hardly applies to them,
-for more civilized and Christian beings would be
-hard to find. When white men first came in
-contact with them they found them anything
-but civilized except in their ideas of justice, in
-which they were able to give us lessons; in
-hospitality even now they can put a white man
-to shame. However, for the purpose of this
-article I will call them savages.</p>
-
-<p>The children from their earliest days begin to
-laugh. I do not remember ever seeing one cry&mdash;and
-they seem to spend the rest of their days
-with a smile hovering somewhere near their
-faces, ready at the slightest provocation to come
-out. As the “Haka” is composed of a series
-of body movements, in which facial expression
-plays a prominent part, the children have plenty
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_358">358</span>
-of scope to caricature the whole performance,
-which they turn into a merry pantomime,
-stamping and shouting, rolling their eyes,
-and hanging out their tongues in curious
-imitation of the real performers. The girls,
-too, have their dances, and
-these are really both pretty
-and interesting, for they are
-handsome creatures who
-know they are good looking,
-and enjoy showing themselves
-off to the best advantage, as
-one can see by the pretty and
-fascinating movements of the
-various dances they practise.
-The only thing that mars
-them is their anxiety to make
-grotesque faces every now
-and then, but perhaps this
-too is done by way of contrast.
-The men have the
-same failing, and though their
-expressions are more savage
-they do not add to the charm
-of the dances. To perform
-a dance of welcome in front
-of a visiting tribe, and pull
-horrible faces at them the
-while, is hardly likely to make
-the visitors feel at home, but
-the Maoris understand it,
-and so do not get cross, as
-you and I might.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a href="images/i045a.jpg">
-<img src="images/i045a.jpg"
-alt="" /></a>
-<p class="caption">MAORI BOYS PERFORMING THE “HAKA.”<br />
-<i>From a Photo. by permission of the New Zealand Government Tourist Department.</i></p>
-</div>
-
-<p>In the Solomon Islands, British New Guinea,
-and the New Hebrides the children are also of
-a playful disposition and have many games
-which resemble ours, such as leap-frog and
-pick-a-back, whilst the elder generation have
-musical instruments resembling
-the jews’ harp, the
-fiddle, and the Pandean
-pipes.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a href="images/i045b.jpg">
-<img src="images/i045b.jpg"
-alt="" /></a>
-<p class="caption">A YOUNG NICOBARESE ISLANDER PLAYING A
-FLAGEOLET WITH HIS NOSE.<br />
-<i>From a Photo. by E. H. Man.</i></p>
-</div>
-
-<p>Certain musical instruments
-are more or less
-common all over the world,
-but often the method of
-playing them differs, as the
-accompanying photograph
-will show. It represents a
-young Nicobarese playing a
-reed flageolet with his nose!
-Lots of people in the most
-civilized lands sing through
-their noses, but playing
-through them is, I believe,
-only practised in savage
-lands. In these same islands
-the natives have a sounding-board
-which I suppose they
-would call a musical instrument,
-for it takes the place
-of the well-known tom-tom
-used in other countries. Here
-it is beaten to keep time for
-dancers. It is a curiously
-constructed instrument,
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_359">359</span>
-resembling a native shield; in fact, some
-travellers have mistaken it for one. Scooped
-out of the trunk of a tree in the same way that
-ordinary dug-out canoes are made, it is about
-five feet long and two or three feet broad;
-like a shield, it is concave in shape. One of
-the ends is pointed, and when in use this
-is stuck in the ground diagonally; a stone
-is placed under the other end to raise it. To
-play it the native plants one foot firmly on the
-buried end whilst he strikes the board with his
-disengaged foot.</p>
-
-<p>“Musical” entertainments are popular in
-the Nicobar Islands, and the young men vie
-with each other in composing ditties which
-they hope will become popular and thus make
-them famous. So far none of these songs have
-been pirated in England, but this does not say
-that in the islands they are not “all the go.”
-Such tunes are composed to be sung to the
-accompaniment of the sounding-board and
-dances. These, among the women, resemble
-more than anything else the antics of timid
-ladies bathing at the seaside. The dancing of
-the men is not much help to the musician
-either, as it consists of a few movements rather
-like dumb-bell exercises for chest development,
-so that it can be understood that the young
-Nicobarese has no light task before him when
-he seeks fame in composition.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a href="images/i046.jpg">
-<img src="images/i046.jpg"
-alt="" /></a>
-<p class="caption">A CURIOUS DANCE POPULAR IN THE NICOBAR ISLANDS.<br />
-<i>From a Photo. by E. H. Man.</i></p>
-</div>
-
-<p>On the West Coast of Africa there is a remarkably
-interesting dance in which the movements
-of the dancer supply the “music.” For
-the particulars of this dance and for the photograph
-of the performers I have to thank Mr.
-T. J. Alldridge, some time District Commissioner.
-The native dancing girls wear most
-fantastic garments. Their bodies are covered
-with a net made of native cotton, from which
-hang great bunches of palm-leaf fibre. Tufts
-of the same material decorate their wrists
-and waists, and some wear curious knicker-bockers.
-To these latter garments are attached
-small pieces of hollow iron, from which rings
-are hung, and when the dancer gets in full
-swing these make a curious jingling noise. An
-accompaniment is also played by other women
-on another quaint instrument called a <i>sehgura</i>,
-which is made out of a hollow gourd covered
-with a net, on which are fixed a number of
-seeds. To produce the sound the ends of the
-net are held in the two hands and tightened
-and slackened alternately, while rhythmic
-shaking is now and then indulged in to vary
-the accompaniment.</p>
-
-<p>In this part of the world there are several
-interesting games of chance, for natives are
-inveterate gamblers and will stake all they
-possess&mdash;huts, wearing apparel, and even their
-wives. One of their favourite pastimes is
-played with a concave board, which is put on
-the ground facing the players, who stand or
-squat a little way off. They then spin a sort of
-top into and across it until one of them fails to
-send it with sufficient force to carry it to the
-far end; it is then the business of the next
-man to spin his top with sufficient force to drive
-his opponent’s out, and so beat him.</p>
-
-<p>Gambling seems to be common in all parts of
-the world; the Eskimo have many interesting
-games where chance and skill are combined.
-One called “nuglutang” is very popular and is
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_360">360</span>
-played by several
-men at a time.
-From the centre
-of the room
-(generally from
-the roof) is slung
-a plate of ivory
-having a hole in
-its centre. The
-Eskimos stand
-away from it, and
-each in turn endeavours
-to throw
-a stick through
-the orifice. In one
-of their games,
-called “saketan,”
-they have a
-curious way of
-“staking.” The
-game is a sort of
-roulette; a board
-is placed on the
-ground, and a
-small cup with
-rounded bottom
-and a lip is spun
-on to it. The
-man in front of
-whom the lip
-stops is the winner,
-but, unlike most
-winners, he is actually
-a loser, for he
-has to go and fetch something to pay in as a
-stake, which the next “winner” takes, but he
-in turn pays in another forfeit in its place for
-the man who follows. So the game goes on
-until the last man wins,
-and he appropriates the
-stakes out and out, making
-himself the only real
-winner, whereas the first
-player to whom the cup
-pointed is the only loser
-in a game which causes
-the wildest excitement
-whilst the issue is in
-doubt.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a href="images/i047a.jpg">
-<img src="images/i047a.jpg"
-alt="" /></a>
-<p class="caption">WEST AFRICAN DANCING GIRLS.<br />
-<i>From a Photograph.</i></p>
-</div>
-
-<p>It is a peculiar thing that
-string games, like some
-others already mentioned,
-are popular all
-over the world
-amongst the
-coloured races,
-and what is perhaps
-far more extraordinary
-is the
-fact, recently discovered,
-that some
-of these string
-figures are made
-in exactly the same
-way, and are of
-the same design
-in places as widely
-apart as America,
-the South Sea
-Islands, and
-Japan. The last
-photograph, taken
-by Mr. William
-A. Cunnington,
-shows a very
-interesting string
-figure from Central
-Africa called
-“Sumbo” (a fishing
-net), which
-is by no means a
-simple one.</p>
-
-<p>For the description
-of this figure
-and permission to
-reproduce the
-photograph I have to thank the Secretary of
-the Anthropological Institute.</p>
-
-<p>Besides having tricks of this sort in which the
-hands only are employed, there are many now
-known which are made
-with hands and feet, and
-others again are worked
-round the neck and the
-hands.</p>
-
-<p>Dr. Haddon has made
-a particular study of the
-subject, and has, in
-collaboration with Dr.
-Rivers, published particulars
-of many of the
-string tricks performed
-in various parts of the
-world.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a href="images/i047b.jpg">
-<img src="images/i047b.jpg"
-alt="" /></a>
-<p class="caption">STRING GAMES ARE POPULAR ALL OVER THE
-WORLD&mdash;HERE IS AN INTERESTING FIGURE FROM
-CENTRAL AFRICA.<br />
-<i>From a Photograph.</i>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_361">361</span></p>
-</div>
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-<h2 id="The_Marriage_of_Lulu"><i>The Marriage of Lulu.</i><br />
-
-<span class="smcap medium">By the Rev. A. Forder, of Jerusalem.</span></h2>
-
-<blockquote>
-
-<p>The author is a missionary who has travelled extensively in the East, and is thoroughly familiar
-with the wild tribes of the desert. In the subjoined narrative he relates the love-story of a young
-Arab girl&mdash;a real life romance with the conventional happy ending of fiction.</p></blockquote>
-
-<div>
-<img class="drop-cap" src="images/i.jpg" alt="I" />
-</div>
-
-<p class="drop-cap"><span class="upper-case">It</span> was that time of the day which
-Orientals call <i>asr</i>, between four
-o’clock and sunset&mdash;just the time
-when the Arab chief likes to be on
-hand so that he may receive and
-welcome any who may seek the hospitality and
-shelter afforded by his simple home, and see
-for himself that sufficient food for man and
-beast is provided, so that both may sup and be
-satisfied.</p>
-
-<p>On a certain afternoon Sheikh Khaleel sat
-at his tent door watching the sun slowly sink
-toward the west, wondering, as he pulled at the
-dying embers in his pipe, if it would be his lot
-to entertain any guest that night.</p>
-
-<p>As his sharp eyes looked out from under his
-shaggy eyebrows he saw in the distance a rider
-mounted on a camel, whose head was directed
-straight for the camp under the chief’s control.</p>
-
-<p>It was not long before both camel and rider
-stood at the door of the guest-tent, and the
-chief, having tethered the ship of the desert to
-one of the tent-pegs, invited his guest to enter,
-and at once set about preparing the coffee
-according to Arab custom.</p>
-
-<p>The new arrival, whose name was Abd-el-Thullam
-(the servant of cruelty) was well
-known to the Arabs for scores of miles round,
-and a visit from him always meant something
-unusual and of importance, hence the wonder
-of the host and his neighbours at the coming
-of one with so uninviting a name, which was
-obtained by deeds that gave subject for conversation
-around many a camp-fire after supper.
-Speculations as to the coming of this well-known
-chief were many, and although not audibly
-expressed filled the minds of all present, and
-of none more so than the women, who were
-separated from the menfolk only by the coarse
-goats’-hair curtain that divided the tent. Little
-did the host’s only daughter think that she was
-the cause of this unexpected visitor coming
-among them, or how much his presence meant
-to her and others.</p>
-
-<p>Arab etiquette forbids any direct asking of
-questions or quizzing into the affairs of a guest,
-so both before and after supper the conversation
-was upon subjects far away from the one that
-had brought Abd-el-Thullam into the camp of
-Sheikh Khaleel, and the simple folk of the
-wilderness closed their eyes in sleep without
-having the faintest idea of the object of Abd-el-Thullam’s
-visit.</p>
-
-<p>With the morning light the camp was astir,
-both men and women going about their daily
-callings, each one wondering what the day would
-reveal. After the matutinal cup of coffee the
-guest made known the object of his coming,
-doing so in such forceful and measured language
-as to impress upon the little company of
-listeners the fact that his wishes must be complied
-with.</p>
-
-<p>Condensed into a few words, the rather
-lengthy speech of the “servant of cruelty” was
-somewhat as follows: “Sheikh Khaleel, may
-Allah grant you a long life and build your
-house (grant you sons to perpetuate your name
-and family). To the women of my household I
-desire to add another, for has not our Prophet
-given us permission to have four wives? Already
-I have three. Now I have come to ask for
-your daughter, and am ready to give the price
-that you may ask for her. As I am to join a
-raiding party in a few days the matter must be
-settled at once. May Allah give you patience
-and wisdom.”</p>
-
-<p>The statement was so unexpected that no one
-could make reply for a minute or so. At last
-the silence was broken by Khaleel saying, “The
-will of Allah be done! What is decreed must
-come to pass.”</p>
-
-<p>Now, the business of a betrothal and marriage
-is not usually hurried among Arabs, for much
-talking is necessary to settle the price of the
-bride, and time is needed in which to pay the
-amount agreed upon, and to arrange and comply
-with the wedding festivities and customs.
-Hence Sheikh Khaleel and his neighbours were
-surprised in a two-fold way, first by the boldness
-of the request, and secondly by the desire to
-hasten the matter. So, reminding the impatient
-suitor that “God was with the patient ones,”
-Khaleel bade him wait a while.</p>
-
-<p>But the man desirous of many wives pressed
-his claim and asked the price of the girl, again
-saying that he was ready to give whatever was
-asked.</p>
-
-<p>All the while Khaleel had been wondering if
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_362">362</span>
-this was not his chance to make a good bargain,
-although for two reasons he was loath to part
-with his daughter, whose name was Lulu (the
-pearl). Was she not his only daughter&mdash;in fact,
-the only child Allah had spared to him? Moreover,
-although there had been no formal or
-public betrothal, he knew well enough that
-Lulu’s heart and affections had already been
-won by a young man of his own camp and
-community. But here was the opportunity to
-drive a good and hard bargain. And what did
-it matter, after all? It was only about a girl,
-who might any day be taken ill and die; also,
-he might have to get her off at a small return
-later on if he allowed this chance to slip by.</p>
-
-<p>At last Khaleel spoke, making known the
-terms on which his daughter could become the
-fourth wife of the unwelcome guest. They were
-as follows: a mare, one hundred goats, fifty
-sheep, and two hundred silver medjidiehs (each
-worth three and fourpence), all to be paid
-within three days, with the stipulation that,
-should Lulu die before the time for taking her
-to her new home, viz., seven days of feasting,
-the above payment should become the sole
-property of Chief Khaleel, her father. In
-addition to the above the new son-in-law was
-to give for five successive years one hundred
-measures of new wheat and fifty of barley.</p>
-
-<p>The terms were received in silence, and anyone
-glancing at the faces of those assembled
-could gather that each thought the price high,
-but all knew that the visiting chief was rich and
-well able to pay the fee demanded, if he chose
-to do so.</p>
-
-<p>Nearly the whole day
-was spent in arguing, persuasion,
-and calculation,
-but Sheikh Khaleel was
-immovable, the more so
-as he saw a chance of
-getting his terms.</p>
-
-<p>Finding that talking was
-of no avail, Abd-el-Thullam
-finally consented to
-the terms on condition
-that, as soon as the purchase
-price was paid, the
-seven days of wedding
-festivities should commence.
-To this Khaleel
-gave his consent, and,
-although the day was far
-spent, the prospective
-bridegroom mounted a
-horse which had been
-brought for him and rode
-away, leaving the camel
-on which he had arrived
-as an earnest of his return. For three days the
-camel was tied before the guest-tent, and was
-only redeemed just in time to save it from being
-forfeited.</p>
-
-<p>We must now leave the guest-tent and for
-a time consider some other people who were
-keenly interested in the happenings just related.</p>
-
-<p>First, a word about Lulu. As already stated,
-she was the only child of her father, and, such
-being the case, she was naturally better cared
-for and more thought of than if there had been
-rivals in the shape of brothers. Her father
-spared her in many ways the indignities so
-commonly imposed upon females in the East,
-one distinction between her and other girls of
-the tribe being that her face had not been
-tattooed.</p>
-
-<p>At the time of our story her age was about
-fourteen. The bloom of youth on her cheek,
-with the uprightness of figure so common among
-Arab girls, made her queenly in appearance in
-spite of her oft-patched flowing robes.</p>
-
-<p>Among her own kith and kin she reigned
-supreme, for, having lost her mother soon after
-her birth, she had claimed the nursing and
-attention of most of the women in the camp;
-hence she was ruled by none and spoiled by all.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a href="images/i049.jpg">
-<img src="images/i049.jpg"
-alt="" /></a>
-<p class="caption">“FOR THREE DAYS THE CAMEL WAS TIED BEFORE THE GUEST-TENT.”<br />
-<i>From a Photograph.</i></p>
-</div>
-
-<p>Some of the youths, too, had paid her
-attention, and, having grown up side by side
-with her, were more than mere friends. One,
-whose name was Abd-Salaam (the servant of
-peace), had even found it in his heart to love
-her, which aspiration he knew was not in vain,
-for on more than one occasion Lulu had assured
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_363">363</span>
-him that when the time came for her to become
-a wife none but the “servant of peace” would
-suffice.</p>
-
-<p>Now it so happened that all that had passed
-and been settled in the guest-tent between father
-and visitor was unknown to either Lulu or her
-lover, for the former had been away all day
-gathering fuel on the hill-sides in company with
-another girl, while Abd-Salaam had gone with
-others to a distant town in charge of some
-sheep, the day he left the camp being the one
-on which the wife-seeker arrived.</p>
-
-<p>It is customary among the Arabs for the girl
-who is to be betrothed not to be consulted as
-to any likes or dislikes on her part, and she
-knows nothing about her being traded off to
-some stranger until informed by having the large
-outer garment of the suitor thrown around her,
-and hearing the announcement that she belongs
-to him.</p>
-
-<p>The surprise of Lulu, therefore, on her return
-to the camp may be imagined when the scribe
-of the community approached her and, all
-unawares, covered her with a large camel-hair
-<i>abba</i>, saying, “The name of God be with thee,
-O Lulu. None shall have thee but Abd-el-Thullam.”</p>
-
-<p>Surprised as she was, she threw off the cloak
-and entered the tent, inwardly vowing that none
-should have her but the constant companion of
-her girlhood. With the liberty allowed her as
-the chief’s daughter she went into the guest-tent,
-and, with hands clenched and determination
-written on her face, informed her father that her
-home and lot should not be among strangers,
-and that the hated “servant of cruelty” should
-be no husband of hers. In this way warfare was
-declared, and the probability of trouble in the
-near future announced.</p>
-
-<p>That night she was sprinkled with sheep’s
-blood, as a sign that her life belonged to another.
-Next day she was accompanied by the women
-to a spring, and, according to custom, thoroughly
-washed and purified, while on the day following
-busy fingers worked incessantly making a
-wedding-robe for the supposed bride. Lulu
-tolerated all these formalities in silence, but
-inwardly decided that, do what they would and
-act as they might, she would never be the bride
-of the one who was to supplant the choice of
-long ago.</p>
-
-<p>The afternoon of the third day came round,
-but no suitor with the price of the bride had
-appeared, and it looked as though Lulu would
-be released from her probable marriage, and
-her father become the possessor of a camel
-for little trouble. Just an hour before sunset,
-however, a cloud of dust in the distance told of
-the coming of flocks, and ere the golden orb
-disappeared altogether Abd-el-Thullam had
-handed over what was demanded in return for
-his prospective bride. The bleating of the
-sheep and the clinking of the silver pieces only
-made Lulu vow afresh that no tent of a stranger
-should shelter her.</p>
-
-<p>The price having been paid in the presence
-of witnesses, the wedding festivities commenced.
-The firing of old flint-lock guns was the signal
-that announced holiday-keeping for a week.
-Sheep were killed, bread baked in abundance,
-and coffee-drinking went on continuously. This
-is a time much appreciated by the dwellers of
-the wilderness, for then they are able to satisfy
-the cravings of hunger and for once in a season
-eat until satisfied.</p>
-
-<p>Whilst the men raced on their horses or
-fought imaginary battles, the women whiled
-away the hours in dancing, singing, or sipping
-coffee between puffs at their long pipes. So the
-days passed, and the end of the marriage feast
-approached.</p>
-
-<p>Only Lulu took no part or interest in all that
-was going on, and as the men or women
-chanted in turn the virtues, praises, and good
-fortune of both bride and bridegroom, it all fell
-like water on a duck’s back so far as the girl-bride
-was concerned. Inwardly she longed for
-the return of her boy lover, so that he might
-in some way intervene to stop the proceedings,
-and so win her for himself according to their
-mutual pledge.</p>
-
-<p>But the “servant of peace” did not come,
-for the demand in the town for sheep was poor,
-and he had to wait many days ere the flock was
-disposed of and he free to return to his goats’-hair
-home. As time and tide wait for no man,
-neither did the last day of the wedding festivities
-tarry, and all too soon for the greatly-distressed
-Lulu the seventh day dawned, and with it no
-visible escape from what seemed her inevitable
-fate.</p>
-
-<p>With the constant attention of the women,
-escape by flight was well-nigh impossible, but
-before noon a probable way of deliverance
-presented itself which Lulu was not slow to
-grasp. A small company of gipsies arrived at
-the camp, one of whom&mdash;an old woman&mdash;professed
-a knowledge of drugs, and verified
-her statements by producing a small box of
-mysterious-looking compounds in powder.</p>
-
-<p>The arrival of the party drew away attention
-from Lulu, but she engaged the attention of the
-vender of drugs, and elicited from her the fact
-that among her wares was poison. It was only
-the work of a few minutes to exchange cash for
-a mysterious powder, directions for the use of
-which were imparted to Lulu in an undertone.</p>
-
-<p>As evening drew on preparations were made
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_364">364</span>
-for the sending away after supper of bride
-and bridegroom. The camel that was to carry
-Lulu to her new home was decorated and made
-ready, and the torches and tom-toms seen to and
-handed out to those who were to accompany
-the procession on its way to the camp of Abd-el-Thullam.
-It seemed that nothing remained to
-be done save to partake of supper and start.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a href="images/i051.jpg">
-<img src="images/i051.jpg"
-alt="" /></a>
-<p class="caption">“IT WAS ONLY THE WORK OF A FEW MINUTES TO EXCHANGE CASH FOR A
-MYSTERIOUS POWDER.”</p>
-</div>
-
-<p>During the serving of the unusually large
-meal, which occupied the attention of the women
-for a time, Lulu slipped out backwards under
-the rear curtain
-of the tent and
-disappeared.
-Few missed her
-for a time, for
-all were busy,
-but when the
-call was given,
-“Bring out the
-bride and let
-her husband
-claim her,” great
-was the astonishment,
-for no
-bride was on
-hand. One
-abused the
-other, and the
-angry bridegroom
-accused
-his host of
-treachery and
-would have shot
-him but for the
-interference of
-others, who reminded
-him
-again that Allah
-was with the
-patient ones.</p>
-
-<p>All denied
-that the girl was
-dead, for had
-they not seen
-her alive only a
-short time before?
-She would
-return soon,
-they said, and
-put an end to
-the confusion and mystery.</p>
-
-<p>Meanwhile scouts were
-sent out around the camp,
-only to return later without
-tidings of the fugitive. All
-that night watch was kept,
-but morning dawned without
-the mystery being
-solved, and as the day wore on speculations
-were indulged in as to whom the purchase price
-of Lulu belonged, for, although she had now
-disappeared, she on her part had not done
-anything within the seven days of the feast to
-cause her intended master to claim the price
-paid for her. The sun set again without any
-light being shed on the disappearance or whereabouts
-of the girl-bride, and Abd-el-Thullam
-was furious at being balked of his prey, swearing
-by every oath available that he would lose
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_365">365</span>
-neither wife nor purchase price, even if the
-regaining of one or the other made lifelong
-enmity between the two tribes.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a href="images/i052a.jpg">
-<img src="images/i052a.jpg"
-alt="" /></a>
-<p class="caption">“AN OLD TOMB HEWN IN THE SIDE OF THE CISTERN.”<br />
-[<i>From a Photograph.</i>]</p>
-</div>
-
-<p>We must now leave the puzzled company in
-the guest-tent and see what had become of Lulu.
-After slipping under the tent-cloth, she commenced
-to run as fast as her bare feet would
-permit her. In her excitement and joy at being
-free she cared little in which direction she fled,
-and although the night was unusually dark, by
-reason of heavy storm-clouds, she sped on over
-hill and valley until thoroughly tired and exhausted.
-As she rested her weary little
-frame on the soft herbage of the wilderness
-the solitude and stillness made her nervous
-and afraid. Her trepidation was not lessened
-by a sudden movement near her&mdash;made,
-probably, by a jackal more alarmed than
-herself.</p>
-
-<p>The fright made her rise quickly and again
-take to flight, but after running a few hundred
-yards misfortune overtook her, for, without
-warning, she tripped and fell headlong into
-an old unused cistern quite twenty-five feet
-deep. The fall made her unconscious, and
-as the pit was far from the camp she was
-safe for that night, while a tangle of creepers
-and thorns over the mouth of the cavity
-made her fairly secure by day.</p>
-
-<p>Here, bruised and unconscious, the poor
-little bride-to-be lay until daybreak, when, with
-the rising sun, her senses returned to her.
-Having considered her surroundings, she
-decided to secure herself further by creeping
-into an old tomb hewn in the side of the
-cistern, where at least she could
-die in peace rather than be the
-slave of one utterly distasteful to
-her. So, with one last fond
-thought for her absent lover, she
-swallowed the gipsy’s potion and
-crawled into the small aperture.
-Here she soon fell into a stupor,
-caused partly by weariness, but
-mainly by the powder bought
-from the old drug-vender.</p>
-
-<p>But what had become of the
-boy-lover all these days that he
-had not returned to the camp
-and become conversant with all
-that had happened to his little
-companion?</p>
-
-<p>As already stated, he was
-delayed by a slack market; but
-after some days he was free to
-return, and, in charge of two
-camels, he set out for his wilderness
-home. On the day after Lulu’s
-escape he was crossing the great
-plain, happy at the prospect of reaching camp
-before evening. Being somewhat religiously
-inclined, he halted at noonday to pray, and soon
-after remounting was warned to seek shelter from
-a storm that was announced by a sharp crack of
-thunder. Looking about him he saw a cavity
-in the ground wide and high enough to allow
-his camels to enter. By dint of pulling, coaxing,
-and beating he forced the beasts in, and at last
-all three found themselves in the same pit into
-which Lulu had fallen the night before.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a href="images/i052b.jpg">
-<img src="images/i052b.jpg"
-alt="" /></a>
-<p class="caption">“HE HALTED AT NOONDAY TO PRAY.”<br />
-<i>From a Photograph.</i>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_366">366</span></p>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a href="images/i053.jpg">
-<img src="images/i053.jpg"
-alt="" /></a>
-<p class="caption">“SUDDENLY HE WAS SEEN TO FALL HEAVILY.”</p>
-</div>
-
-<p>The heavy rain dripping through the opening
-above made the youth seek better shelter, so he
-presently crept into the old tomb, and, to his
-amazement, found that it was already occupied
-by someone apparently deep in slumber.</p>
-
-<p>Curiosity made him try to rouse the sleeper,
-but it was of no use. Crawling farther in, it was
-not long before the amazed camel-boy discovered
-that the insensible girl was his dearly-loved
-Lulu. Assuring himself that she was not dead,
-and, of course, ignorant of the circumstances
-that had brought her to the cavern, he left her,
-and, taking the best of the two camels, rode off
-post-haste to carry the news of Lulu’s condition
-to the camp and get help.</p>
-
-<p>The announcement
-caused a
-good deal of talk,
-stir, and excitement,
-which was
-suddenly put a
-stop to by Abd-el-Thullam
-jumping
-on his mare
-and making off at
-full speed toward
-the cavern, hoping
-to be the
-first to secure his
-dearly-bought
-bride.</p>
-
-<p>Others joined
-in the race, but
-it seemed as if
-no one would
-overtake the
-eager chief, when
-suddenly he was
-seen to fall
-heavily, having
-been thrown to
-the ground by
-his mare putting
-her foot into a
-hole.</p>
-
-<p>He did not
-move, and
-when the others
-reached him they discovered to their consternation
-that he had broken his neck and was
-quite dead. Instead of a reluctant bride being
-escorted to the distant camp, therefore, the corpse
-of the unfortunate chief was carried thither.</p>
-
-<p>On reaching the cavern the men found Lulu
-still deep in the drug-induced slumber, and,
-making a rough litter out of their roomy outer
-garments, they carried her to their camp and laid
-her on her rude bed of heather and dry grass.</p>
-
-<p>Fortunately, the old gipsy-woman had not left
-the camp, and now, taking in the situation, she
-administered a dose of some concoction that
-soon had the effect of rousing the sleeper and
-making her able to explain her presence in the
-rock-hewn tomb.</p>
-
-<p>Slowly but surely Lulu regained vigour, and
-the old youthful spirit came again, much to the
-joy of Abd-Salaam and her father. After a few
-weeks another marriage feast was kept, for there
-was now no obstacle to the wedding of the lovers,
-the price of the bride having been paid by the
-ill-fated “servant of cruelty.” The affair was hurried
-this time, for the feast was to have a happy ending;
-love, instead of custom, had won the day.
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_367">367</span></p>
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="THE_BREAKER" src="images/i054a.jpg"
-alt="THE BREAKER OF RECORDS." />
-<h2><span class="hidden">THE BREAKER OF RECORDS.<br /></span>
-<span class="smcap medium">By Herbert G. Ponting</span>, F.R.G.S</h2>
-</div>
-
-<blockquote>
-
-<p>The amusing story of an American who set out to eclipse the round-the-world record. The author,
-himself a globe-trotter of many years’ standing, describes him as “the most extraordinary man I ever
-met,” and after reading the narrative we fancy the reader will be inclined to agree with him.</p></blockquote>
-
-<div>
-<img class="drop-cap" src="images/i.jpg" alt="I" />
-</div>
-
-<p class="drop-cap"><span class="upper-case">I met</span> him at Dalny, in August,
-1903&mdash;the year before war broke
-out between Japan and Russia.</p>
-
-<p>I had been travelling in Manchuria,
-and had come down from
-Mukden only just in time to catch, by the skin
-of my teeth, the weekly steamer to Japan. The
-train was more than an hour late, and the
-drosky that I hired at the station&mdash;with my
-luggage piled in anyhow by the Chinese porters&mdash;had
-been driven by the dishevelled moujik in
-charge at a pace that laughed at speed limits
-and scorned such trifling obstacles as ruts and
-holes nearly a foot in depth.</p>
-
-<p>As we tore up to the steamer’s berth at the
-great wharf, that was later to prove of such
-inestimable value to the Japanese, the driver
-shouting and lashing his three horses into foam,
-the gangway was on the point of being lowered,
-and I had horrible visions of having to spend a
-week in that most dead of dead-alive towns, in
-which I already seemed to know every house.</p>
-
-<p>With commendable courtesy, however, the
-officials permitted me to get myself and effects
-on board, and a moment later we were steaming
-out into the fine harbour.</p>
-
-<p>The steamer was the <i>Mongolia</i>, which had
-the misfortune six months later to be the first
-Russian vessel captured by the Japanese.</p>
-
-<p>I was leaning over the rail, watching the hills
-receding from view, when I suddenly felt a tap
-on my shoulder, and on looking round was confronted
-by a rather sallow-faced, wiry-looking
-individual of medium height, with steel-grey
-eyes that seemed to pierce through mine clean
-into my brain.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a href="images/i054b.jpg">
-<img src="images/i054b.jpg"
-alt="" /></a>
-<p class="caption">“THE DRIVER SHOUTING AND LASHING HIS THREE HORSES INTO FOAM.”
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_368">368</span></p>
-</div>
-
-<p>“Say, d’you speak English?” he asked me.</p>
-
-<p>I admitted that, being an Englishman, I had
-a moderate command of the language.</p>
-
-<p>“Well, I ain’t English, I’m Amur’can,” he
-replied.</p>
-
-<p>“So I see.”</p>
-
-<p>“Well, say now, how’d you know I was
-Amur’can?”</p>
-
-<p>“By your accent; one would scarcely
-make the mistake of taking you for anything
-else.”</p>
-
-<p>“Well, say, you’re smart enough to be an
-Amur’can, too, at that rate. Anyhow, I’m
-mighty glad to see you, for since I parted with
-my friend, who went to Port Arthur, I ain’t had
-a chance of hearin’ a language that anyone could
-understand. I’m out to beat the record round
-the world for the <i>New York</i> &mdash;&mdash;, and if I only
-make it in Japan I’ll beat the previous best by
-exactly twelve days.”</p>
-
-<p>He then related to me how he had left New
-York and travelled <i>vi&acirc;</i> Liverpool, London,
-Dover, Ostend, Berlin, Moscow, and the Trans-Siberian
-Railway to Dalny; and here he was,
-bound for Nagasaki, Japan, where he would
-take the train for Yokohama, and thence travel
-by the <i>Empress of India</i> to Vancouver, by the
-Canadian Pacific Railway to Quebec, and from
-there back to New York.</p>
-
-<p>“I’m going to publish a book on the trip, and
-I’ve got about enough information to fill it
-already. Say, though, my wife’ll be glad to see
-me back again in New York. She’s a beautiful
-woman, my wife. She’s tall and dark, and has
-a straight-front figure&mdash;a woman can’t be
-fashionable without a straight-front figure&mdash;and
-when she walks she leans forward like a
-kangaroo and does the glide. Ever seen it?
-I tell you, sir, there’s nuthin’ like it; and it
-takes a New York girl to do it properly, and
-there ain’t many girls in New York as can lick
-my wife at walkin’. I’ll introduce you to her
-sometime if I ever see you in New York, an’ if
-you don’t say she’s about the slickest thing you
-ever saw in skirts, well, you ain’t much of a
-judge o’ weather.</p>
-
-<p>“Say, now that I come to look at you, I’ve
-seen you before, I guess,” he rattled on.
-“Wasn’t you the chap that come rushin’ on to
-the platform at Mukden just as our train was
-movin’ out of the station?”</p>
-
-<p>I acknowledged that I was. Owing to the
-impossibility of obtaining any reliable information
-in the town, several miles away, as to
-the time of departure of the trains, I had reached
-the station, to my great chagrin, just in time to
-see the <i>train de luxe</i> move away from the
-platform. I had thus been compelled to take
-a slow and very dirty train three hours later,
-and hence the reason of my nearly missing the
-boat at Dalny.</p>
-
-<p>“Looks as if cuttin’ things fine was rather in
-your line, eh? Say, though, you couldn’t take
-risks like that if you was doin’ a record round
-the world. You nearly missed this boat. I
-was watchin’ you, and if you’d been on my job
-you’d have perspired like a pig as you was
-drivin’ up to the wharf, with that woolly-faced
-pirate yellin’ and thrashin’ them horses to soapsuds,
-and the steamer whistle blowin’ and the
-whole durned push hollerin’ and monkeyin’
-with the ropes of the gangway. You’d have
-had your heart in your boots, young feller, if
-you’d been on my lay-out and seen how near
-you came to botchin’ up the whole job.</p>
-
-<p>“And talkin’ of botchin’ jobs, if this steamer
-doesn’t arrive in Nagasaki in time to catch the
-eight o’clock train on Thursday, I’m done.
-That train’ll just give me time to catch the
-<i>Empress</i> at Yokohama. If I miss it there ain’t
-another boat until the <i>Gaelic</i> for San Francisco,
-nine days later, and as that’s a slower route I’ll
-be fourteen days longer than if I catch the
-<i>Empress</i>. Gee whiz, though, it’ll break my wife’s
-heart if I don’t clip that twelve days off the
-record. She and I figured this whole thing out
-together months before I started.</p>
-
-<p>“Now, this boat’s due to arrive at Nagasaki at
-eleven o’clock, and if she does no better’n that
-there’s no power on earth can help me; the
-game’s lost. Guess I’ll have to try and square
-the captain to get her into harbour by seven
-o’clock. If I can’t do that my wife’ll be heartbroken;
-she’s set her heart on this. You ought
-to see her; she’s the finest girl in New York&mdash;tall
-and slender, with dark eyes and hair, and
-she’s got a straight-front figure. But, say, I
-guess I’ll have to try and square the captain; I
-ain’t a nervous man, but I’m gettin’ nervous
-about this.”</p>
-
-<p>With that he took me on one side, where
-there was no possibility of any eavesdropping,
-and, drawing his watch from his pocket, said,
-“You see that watch? How much do you
-suppose it’s worth?”</p>
-
-<p>I looked at it closely. It appeared to be a
-handsome gold-cased, centre-seconds hunter, but,
-after the American fashion, the gold was not hallmarked.
-I confessed that I could form no idea
-of its value, but it appeared to me to be an
-expensive one.</p>
-
-<p>“It’s a most difficult thing for anyone but an
-expert to tell the value of a watch, and you
-aren’t the only one to think this is somethin’
-choice,” said my new acquaintance. “Now
-you’ve got a whole lot to learn, and I’m goin’ to
-put you up to a tip that’ll save you a pile of
-money. There’s not many experts on watches
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_369">369</span>
-to be met with travellin’, and most people would
-think this worth fifty dollars at least. That’s
-where they’re wrong. I buy these watches by
-the dozen, and they only cost me one dollar
-and twenty cents each that way. They’re gold-washed,
-but they look like solid gold. I always
-have one on my chain; it’s no good havin’ it
-anywhere else. It must be on the chain you’re
-wearin’, and when the time comes for business
-you’ve got to tenderly draw it out of your pocket
-as if it was somethin’ you valued more than
-your life.</p>
-
-<p>“Now, when I started out from Moscow I
-bought a second-class ticket, and I got into the
-best unoccupied first-class compartment I saw
-on the train. After a while the conductor
-comes along to examine the tickets. I handed
-him mine. He couldn’t speak a word of English,
-but he gave me to understand by pretty good
-actin’ that I’d have to clear out into the other
-end of the train.</p>
-
-<p>“Not bein’ a bad hand at actin’ myself, I was
-right <i>in</i> it. I gently pulled my watch from my
-pocket&mdash;it was one like this I now have on me&mdash;and
-showed him clearly that I intended to
-give it to him when we reached Irkutsk if he let
-me stay where I was. I repeated the word
-Irkutsk several times, each time touchin’ his
-pocket.</p>
-
-<p>“Well, sirree, you ought to have been there
-to see his face when he caught sight of that
-watch! His eyes bulged out of his head so you
-could hang your hat on ’em, and to show what
-he felt like in his heart he took hold of my hand
-and shook it.</p>
-
-<p>“After that he was like a mother to me all
-the way. Other compartments were filled up,
-but I had mine to myself always. Every time I
-passed him I gave him a wink and tapped my
-watch-pocket, and he switched on the nicest
-smile he kept in stock.</p>
-
-<p>“Gee whiz, though, comin’ across Siberia
-the inside of that train was hotter’n the gates of
-Hades, and every day that feller would come to
-my room two or three times to see if he couldn’t
-do something to make me more comfortable.</p>
-
-<p>“At Irkutsk I handed over the watch, and
-either his joy at receivin’ it or his sorrow at
-partin’ with me was so great that he tried to
-kiss me.</p>
-
-<p>“Irkutsk is where they change trains, and I
-met an Englishman on the platform who lived
-in Port Arthur; he was goin’ back there by
-way of Dalny. He had been on a holiday to
-England, and was comin’ back on third-class
-trains, as he had spent about all his money,
-and had only just enough to skin through
-third-class. When I found he knew the country
-and could talk Russian, I invited him to come
-along with me; I told him I’d fix things up all
-right.</p>
-
-<p>“Well, by and by the conductor comes along,
-same as the other had done. There we were,
-both in a first-class compartment, one with a
-second and the other with a third-class ticket.
-I didn’t have need to do any dumb show this
-time, for my friend, who spoke the lingo, did all
-the gassin’, and told him there was a nice
-present waitin’ for him when Dalny was reached
-if we could stay where we were, and when I
-tenderly took another watch out of my pocket
-and looked at it as though it was the only thing
-I’d ever loved on earth, he was as much overcome
-with joy as number one had been.</p>
-
-<p>“Well, that watch fixed it just as I knew it
-would. We both stayed where we were, and
-when, at Dalny, I handed it over to the conductor,
-I calculated those two watches, worth
-two dollars and forty cents, had saved me about
-one hundred and twenty-five dollars.</p>
-
-<p>“That Englishman was as chock-full of
-knowledge about Manchuria as an egg is full of
-meat, and I got enough information out of him
-to write up the whole trip across Russia and
-Siberia.</p>
-
-<p>“Now you see the point I’m gettin’ at.
-There’s more of them watches in my bag, besides
-this one on my chain, and I’d like to see the
-captain of this ship richer by one of ’em, provided
-he does somethin’ to earn such a valuable
-present as he’ll consider it, until he gets to
-pryin’ into the works and askin’ experts’
-opinions about it; but by that time I’ll be a
-long way off and it ’ain’t likely as I’ll ever
-see him again. There’s one disadvantage
-about this game that’s worth remarkin’&mdash;you
-can’t play it on the same man twice.</p>
-
-<p>“As soon as I came aboard this ship and
-found out from the steward the time she gets
-to Nagasaki, I saw another watch would have
-to go, and that the captain o’ the ship would
-be the fortunate possessor. There’s a difficulty
-in the way, as he can’t speak English; and I
-can’t approach him through the steward, as
-that would give the captain away, but I’ve
-discovered there’s a Russian lady in the saloon,
-whom the captain’s already gettin’ on with like
-a house on fire.</p>
-
-<p>“She speaks English with the prettiest accent
-you ever heard, and I was talkin’ to her for half
-an hour in the harbour before you showed up.
-I’ve already told her what I’m doin’, and got her
-quite worked up about it, an’ I’ve decided she’s
-the one to work the captain for me. There she
-is now, comin’ out on deck. Excuse me; there’s
-no time to be lost; I’ll get hold of her before the
-captain sees her.”</p>
-
-<p>As they walked up and down the deck talking
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_370">370</span>
-animatedly together, I could see my new acquaintance
-was making a deeper impression
-every minute. Once a few sentences reached
-me, and I chuckled inwardly.</p>
-
-<p>“She’ll be broken-hearted if I fail to make it....
-I’ll introduce you to her if you come to
-New York. She’ll like you and you’ll like her.
-She’s tall and dark, with big black eyes, and
-she’s got a straight-front figure and a&mdash;&mdash;” I
-had to make a guess at the rest, for they had
-turned the corner by the wheel-house before the
-sentence was finished.</p>
-
-<p>I never doubted what the result of his interview
-would be. Already I felt that the arrival
-of the <i>Mongolia</i> at Nagasaki by seven o’clock on
-Thursday morning was the only thing at present
-to live for. I was completely dominated with
-enthusiasm for the success of this man’s undertaking,
-and felt certain he would as surely win
-the Russian lady’s sympathy and co-operation in
-his project as he had already secured mine.</p>
-
-<p>After half an hour he came back to me.</p>
-
-<p>“That little woman’s all right. She’s made
-o’ good enough clay to be Amur’can, an’ says
-she’ll do everythin’ she can to help me. She’s
-gone to call the captain now.”</p>
-
-<p>Soon she appeared with the captain, talking in
-the most animated manner to him and punctuating
-every sentence with most expressive gestures.</p>
-
-<p>Then they came together towards us and she
-said, “I haf ze captain told what you say off
-your great journey, and he tell me it iss impossible
-we come to Nagasaki so early unless
-he burn extra fifty tons of coal. Ze captain say
-if you pay ze coal he can do it, but if you not
-pay ze coal it iss impossible, but ze captain he
-like verry much to help you.”</p>
-
-<p>To this my travelling companion made reply,
-“Madam, will you please tell the captain that
-the cost of the extra fifty tons of coal is but a
-trifle, and I’ll do a good deal more than pay for
-that. I am so anxious to catch that train that
-if the captain will bring the ship into the harbour
-by seven o’clock I’ll make him a present
-of my watch.”</p>
-
-<p>The lady interpreted this. The captain
-shrugged his shoulders, then he looked up at
-the funnel, from which great rolling convolutions
-of thick black smoke were belching, and he let
-his eye run along the line of reek floating lazily
-in the cobalt astern for many miles&mdash;almost, it
-seemed, to where the yellow, sun-baked Manchurian
-hills were disappearing below the
-horizon&mdash;his brows knitted in thought.</p>
-
-<p>Before he had finished his cogitations the
-would-be breaker of records put his hand into
-the left pocket of his waistcoat and drew out
-his watch. He carefully removed the chamois
-skin bag, soiled sufficiently to show it had long
-protected the treasure it covered, and holding
-the watch, which looked a perfect beauty as it
-caught the sun, in the palm of his hand, he
-addressed himself straight to the captain.</p>
-
-<p>“Captain, I <i>must</i> catch that train, and if
-you’ll help me to do it, sir, my watch shall be
-yours before I leave the ship. Ain’t it a beauty?”
-and he held it out for admiration.</p>
-
-<p>All this he said in a manner that carried
-conviction with it. The lady interpreted again,
-but even that seemed unnecessary. The captain
-had capitulated, and from that moment the
-result lay in little doubt. The success or failure
-of this man’s trip had hung in the balance, and
-the issue was decided by a five-shilling watch
-glittering in the sun on the deck of a Russian
-steamer in the Yellow Sea.</p>
-
-<p>Being in the secret, I could feel only admiration
-at the record-breaker’s sang-froid and the
-clever and dramatic manner in which he played
-his part.</p>
-
-<p>The captain smiled and made a gesture of
-deprecation, but his eyes told us that he meant
-that watch should be his, and presently he went
-below to give directions to the chief engineer.
-From that moment the black smoke rolled out
-of the funnel thicker than before, hanging over
-the steamer’s wake clear to the horizon.</p>
-
-<p>The record-breaker contemplated it and the
-unrippled seas with joy.</p>
-
-<p>We went up into the fo’c’s’le, and as we
-leaned over the bow and saw the speed at which
-the sharp prow was cleaving the glassy water,
-sending thin feathers of spray high up along the
-steamer’s trim and tapering sides, his enthusiasm
-knew no bounds, and his praises of
-“God’s country” and his wife became almost
-dithyrambic.</p>
-
-<p>All next day, as we steamed past the archipelago
-of rocks and barren islands that fringes the
-coast of Korea, the sea remained calm as a
-pond, and when at half-past six o’clock on
-Thursday morning we dropped anchor off the
-quarantine station at Nagasaki all doubt seemed
-to be at an end. There was some delay, however,
-as, though the doctors quickly came on
-board, made their examinations, and gave us a
-clean bill of health, it takes time to get under
-way again, enter the harbour, and take up
-a berth amongst the shipping this bustling port
-always contains. We anchored at seven-twenty.
-The record-breaker knew nothing about the
-place, and it is a long way to the station. I
-knew it well, however, and, as I felt as keen on
-his catching that train as he did himself, I
-chartered a <i>sampan</i> and had all our luggage
-lowered into it, whilst he went up on to the
-bridge to express his thanks and present the
-watch to the captain. I saw him take it from
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_371">371</span>
-his pocket and make a little speech as he handed
-it over, and I saw the captain bow his thanks.
-Then he shook hands, and in another moment
-he was beside me and we were being rapidly
-pulled to the landing-place, or <i>hatoba</i>.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a href="images/i058.jpg">
-<img src="images/i058.jpg"
-alt="" /></a>
-<p class="caption">“’AIN’T IT A BEAUTY?’ AND HE HELD IT OUT FOR ADMIRATION.”</p>
-</div>
-
-<p>There was not a moment to lose. It was
-past seven-thirty, and a good twenty minutes to
-the station. Hastily bidding the <i>sampan</i> to
-wait with my luggage, I engaged rickshaws and
-we were off at full speed. We reached the
-station at seven-fifty-five. Having Japanese
-money on me I paid the rickshaws, whilst he
-bought his ticket with money he had got
-exchanged by the steamer’s purser.</p>
-
-<p>He hastily shook hands, thanked me, and got
-into the train just one moment before it left.</p>
-
-<p>The watch had <i>really</i> done it, but by actually
-less than a minute, and if I had not been there
-to help him he would have failed after all. He
-promised to write me from Yokohama, but this
-he never did. The last I saw of him he was
-waving his hat out of the window to me till the
-train was out of sight.</p>
-
-<p>The last I heard of him was a few weeks
-later, when I read in an American Press telegram
-that he had won his spurs and had beaten
-the previous best round the world by exactly
-twelve days.
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_372">372</span></p>
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="A_White_Woman_in" src="images/i059a.jpg"
-alt="" />
-<h2><span class="hidden">A White Woman in Cannibal-Land.<br /></span>
-
-<span class="smcap medium">By Annie Ker.</span></h2>
-</div>
-
-<blockquote>
-
-<p>Some incidents of a lady’s life in the wilds of New Guinea. Miss Ker went out to Papua&mdash;as the
-country is now called&mdash;attached to a mission, and describes the many strange, amusing, and
-exciting experiences she encountered during her seven years’ sojourn among the natives, who,
-not so very long ago, were always fighting and much addicted to cannibalism&mdash;a practice which
-still prevails among the wild tribes of the unexplored interior.</p></blockquote>
-
-<h3>III.</h3>
-
-<div>
-<img class="drop-cap" src="images/t.jpg" alt="T" />
-</div>
-
-<p class="drop-cap"><span class="upper-case">Towards</span> the end of my stay in
-Papua my special work was translation,
-chiefly of the Scriptures, and
-there was a big pile of manuscript
-awaiting revision. This was generally
-done by one of the mission clergy and myself,
-assisted by intelligent natives who possessed a
-quick ear for mistakes. The little boy seen in
-the first photograph was known as “the Pundit,”
-because, although only fourteen years old, he
-gave us great assistance in the difficult work of
-translation. He had a
-wonderful memory, and
-was very discriminating
-in his choice of words.
-He would sometimes
-volunteer opinions as to
-the style of the sacred
-writers, and considered
-the Prophet Jeremiah,
-on the whole, “easier”
-than Isaiah&mdash;in which I
-agree with him, so far
-as concerns rendering
-the books into a native
-dialect. Perhaps it was
-for this reason that our
-youthful “Pundit,” when
-he was baptised and
-formally discarded his
-heathen name of Bonagadona,
-chose that of
-“Jeremiah,” by which
-imposing cognomen he
-is now known.</p>
-
-<p>Before long the revision work came to a
-standstill, however, for my fellow-reviser had
-gone far north to a pioneer station called
-Ambasi. It was finally decided that, accompanied
-by our mission nurse, I should take the
-MSS. to Ambasi and finish the revision there.
-So we set out on our long journey up the coast
-in the little fourteen-foot schooner. I am not
-a good sailor, and I found the journey very
-uncomfortable; I was only able to admire
-Nature when we anchored.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a href="images/i059b.jpg">
-<img src="images/i059b.jpg"
-alt="" /></a>
-<p class="caption">“THE PUNDIT”&mdash;THIS LITTLE LAD, THOUGH ONLY FOURTEEN
-YEARS OLD, RENDERED THE AUTHORESS GREAT ASSISTANCE
-IN THE DIFFICULT WORK OF TRANSLATING THE SCRIPTURES.<br />
-<i>From a Photograph.</i></p>
-</div>
-
-<p>We spent a very interesting time in Collingwood
-Bay, where only two white women had
-ever been seen, and that within the year. The
-women here wore strips of tappa cloth from
-waist to knee, instead of
-the grass skirts of the
-more eastern tribes, and
-the houses were of a
-finer and larger type.</p>
-
-<p>The villagers, after
-they had got over their
-surprise at seeing us,
-gave us almost too hearty
-a welcome. We were
-implored to pull down
-our hair, and great was
-the astonishment expressed
-at the sight when
-we did so. They also
-failed entirely to understand
-our hairpins, hats,
-and, above all, our long
-noses and small waists!
-The Papuans’ methods
-of hairdressing, however,
-would certainly cause
-almost equal astonishment
-in civilization.
-Look, for instance, at the following photograph,
-which depicts the coiffure of a man
-belonging to the dreaded Doriri tribe, a people
-living inland from Uiaku, whose warlike instincts
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_373">373</span>
-have not yet been subdued.
-It will be noticed
-that the hair is allowed
-to grow long, divided
-into plaits, and elaborately
-braided until it
-looks like a collection of
-rope-ends.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a href="images/i060a.jpg">
-<img src="images/i060a.jpg"
-alt="" /></a>
-<p class="caption">A NATIVE OF THE DREADED DORIRI TRIBE&mdash;THE HAIR IS
-DIVIDED INTO PLAITS AND BRAIDED, UNTIL IT LOOKS LIKE A
-COLLECTION OF ROPE-ENDS.<br />
-<i>From a Photograph.</i></p>
-</div>
-
-<p>At Wanigera, a few
-miles away, where a
-mission station had been
-in existence longer than
-at Uiaku, we met with a
-quieter reception, though
-one old woman, after a
-long look at me, asked a
-child if I were <i>really</i>
-a woman. I wondered
-what strange creature
-she imagined I was, for
-surely, in a white muslin
-frock, she could hardly
-have taken me for a
-man!</p>
-
-<p>During our stay at
-Wanigera a great hunt
-took place, and some
-of the warriors called on
-us before setting out.
-Their ornaments were
-very striking, and the colours almost dazzling.
-Altogether they looked a very fine set of men,
-and would, no doubt, prove enemies much to
-be dreaded in the day of battle. On this
-occasion, however, they only waged war with the
-brute creation, and they
-told us at the close of
-the day that the bag was
-a very good one.</p>
-
-<p>The interior of the
-great church on Sunday
-was a fine sight, being
-filled with from two to
-three hundred natives,
-all decked out in feathers,
-shell ornaments, gay
-tappa cloth, and vivid
-flowers. Not less striking
-was the almost military
-precision with which
-each row of worshippers
-left the building in turn
-at the close of the
-service. If these natives
-went in for such amenities
-of civilization as
-church parades, the
-spectacle would be a
-striking one indeed.</p>
-
-<p>In a neighbouring
-village to Wanigera there
-is a remarkable tree
-house, prepared by the
-tribesmen as a place of
-refuge from marauding
-enemies. From the heights of this arboreal
-retreat they were able to hurl down stones upon
-the attacking party.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a href="images/i060b.jpg">
-<img src="images/i060b.jpg"
-alt="" /></a>
-<p class="caption">PAPUAN WOMEN DECORATED FOR A DEATH-DANCE.<br />
-[<i>From a Photograph.</i>]</p>
-</div>
-
-<p>A fine specimen of Papuan womanhood may
-be seen in the middle figure of the next photograph
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_374">374</span>
-reproduced. These women are natives of
-Nonof, a village not far from Wanigera. They
-were profusely ornamented in order that they
-might take part in a dance held after the death
-of a chief. It is almost an unheard-of occurrence
-for women to don such decorations, which are
-regarded as the exclusive property of the men,
-and it looks as though the ladies were beginning
-to agitate for equal privileges in the way of
-finery with their lords and masters. A native,
-on being shown my collection of curios, which
-included some ornaments, remarked that I was
-<i>me oroto</i>, or “like a man,” because of my many
-possessions.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a href="images/i061a.jpg">
-<img src="images/i061a.jpg"
-alt="" /></a>
-<p class="caption">PREPARING LIME FOR USE IN BETEL-CHEWING.<br />
-[<i>From a Photograph.</i>]</p>
-</div>
-
-<p>The natives of Papua are very much addicted
-to betel-chewing. Areca palms are plentiful up
-the coast, but pepper-leaf and lime are required
-as well. The lime&mdash;which in some districts is
-prepared from coal&mdash;is obtained in Collingwood
-Bay by burning shells. The above photograph
-well illustrates the primitive process in use for
-slaking the lime after the burning of the shells.
-The lime is then stored, and ladled out from a
-calabash when required.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a href="images/i061b.jpg">
-<img src="images/i061b.jpg"
-alt="" /></a>
-<p class="caption">A HUT IN THE FOREST&mdash;OBSERVE THE REMARKABLE ROOF.<br />
-[<i>From a Photograph.</i>]</p>
-</div>
-
-<p>Our stay at Wanigera having come to an end,
-we embarked once more on the little schooner
-and set off again. We anchored each night, for
-the native captain was not very certain of his
-bearings, and reefs were plentiful. On the third
-day after leaving Wanigera, however, he was
-either influenced by the crew or had a sudden
-impulse of recklessness, for after the sun had
-set he tried, in the uncertain light, to bring the
-boat into harbour on a particularly reef-bound
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_375">375</span>
-part of the coast. There was a strong wind
-blowing, and the waves were slapping angrily
-against the sides of the vessel, when suddenly,
-without a moment’s warning, there was a grating
-shock, and we realized that we had struck a reef.
-It was almost dark by now, and the lights of the
-settlement could be seen two or three miles
-away.</p>
-
-<p>The captain let go the anchor at once, but the
-boat began to roll so violently that we felt doubtful
-as to whether the cable would stand the strain.
-Meanwhile the boys scrambled into the dinghy
-and rowed around to investigate our position.
-Strange though it may seem, no harm appeared
-to have been done to the boat, but we were so
-surrounded by reefs that we did not dare to
-move from where we were anchored. So there
-we pitched and rolled about all night, though
-the strength of the wind abated later on.
-What with one thing and another, I felt like a
-very frightened tennis-ball, and I was extremely
-thankful when, at sunrise, we were able to make
-for the shore, where we spent the day and night
-at the house of a friendly magistrate.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a href="images/i062.jpg">
-<img src="images/i062.jpg"
-alt="" /></a>
-<p class="caption">A FISHERMAN’S HOUSE AND CANOE.<br />
-[<i>From a Photograph.</i>]</p>
-</div>
-
-<p>We were now only thirty or forty miles from
-our destination, and the next afternoon arrived
-at Ambasi. No white women had ever been
-there before, and for many days we were visited
-by parties of natives, all eager to see the strange
-white ladies. Women carrying their babies
-astride on their shoulders, old men leading little
-boys, and married couples, with or without their
-families, would pay us long visits, wanting to
-know what a sewing-machine was, to look at our
-bedrooms, and, above all, to taste our food.
-The nurse had her hands full soon after she
-arrived, for the people had great faith in her
-remedies, and patients presented themselves in
-shoals for treatment. Her pet patients appeared
-to be old men, who became frightfully jealous of
-one another if she appeared to devote more
-attention to one than another. They would
-glare fiercely at the patient who was being
-rubbed or otherwise treated, and were only
-partly mollified when their own turn came.</p>
-
-<p>During our stay at Ambasi we dispensed with
-such luxuries as mirrors and sheets, and rolled
-ourselves in blankets, to sleep contentedly in
-hammocks slung on the veranda. We could
-not, however, do without mosquito nets, for
-without them rest would have been quite
-impossible. At night we were surrounded by
-the pale sparks of fireflies, and far below, on the
-beach, the natives’ flaring torches would flicker
-for hours as they fished, standing patiently in
-the sea. In the early morning the sweet notes
-of a bird would wake us from some lofty
-tree at the edge of the thick forest close by,
-behind which rose in majesty the great Owen
-Stanley range, standing out distinctly in the
-clear morning air. The highest peak, Mount
-Albert Edward, over thirteen thousand feet
-high, had not long before been ascended for
-the first time by a magistrate and one of the
-mission staff.</p>
-
-<p>We could not always keep dry under our
-roof, which allowed the rain to penetrate it in
-many places. One memorable night I piled
-nearly all my belongings in a heap covered by a
-mat, and at last sought shelter from the prevailing
-showers under the table, which was, I am
-glad to say, rainproof. But it would not have
-done to be without rain, for it was our only
-water supply, the spring on the beach being too
-brackish to drink.</p>
-
-<p>The Ope, a small river, was only three miles
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_376">376</span>
-distant, within easy reach of the station by boat
-or beach. I visited it one Sunday morning,
-taking with me a village boy who knew a little
-broken English. It was a glorious walk on the
-hard yellow sand, for the tide was out, but the
-return journey was most fatiguing, for the waves
-had covered the firm portion, and at each step I
-sank ankle-deep in the yielding sand.</p>
-
-<p>When we reached the Ope no canoes were to
-be seen, except on the farther bank. We called
-and beckoned, and after a time a small boy
-brought one over to us, on which we embarked.
-There were no paddles, a very slender stick
-being our only means of propelling it, and we
-naturally made poor progress. Our little ferry-man,
-however, was not disconcerted. Kneeling
-down and putting his right leg overboard he
-obligingly paddled with that, and most successfully.</p>
-
-<p>It was at the place to which I was going that
-the launch had once been wrecked, and where,
-some years before, the Bishop of New Guinea
-and one of his laymen had spent the night in
-peril of their lives, after escaping from drowning
-and from a shark. It was with some anxiety,
-therefore, that I looked forward to our arrival.</p>
-
-<p>I am bound to say, however, that no one
-could now accuse the villagers of evil designs
-on us, for I was presented with a young coconut
-to drink, and saw nothing amiss in the
-behaviour of the natives, unless a request to
-take down my hair can be regarded as such.</p>
-
-<p>A chief had died the week before, and the
-dead man seemed to have been related to the
-majority of the people, for many were daubed
-with light yellow clay, which is their form of
-mourning. The widow herself was seated on
-her husband’s grave, which was situated <i>inside</i>
-the house. There, according to tribal etiquette,
-she must remain until she had finished making
-her mourning jacket of netted string trimmed
-with “Job’s tears.” I was glad the poor thing
-had something to occupy her mind, for the
-horror of the situation was increased by the
-presence of two old crones who, one on each
-side of her, wailed incessantly.</p>
-
-<p>Burial in the house in more settled parts of
-Papua has been forbidden by the Government,
-and where the missions are located graveyards
-have been set aside and fenced in.</p>
-
-<p>When my work at Ambasi was over the little
-schooner arrived once more to take us back. It
-was now the calm season, and our progress was
-decidedly slow. The little cabin below, where
-the nurse and I slept, was stuffy in the extreme,
-and it was delightful to get on deck in the early
-morning, though I was seldom able to do more
-than lie there with a bit of sail or a blanket
-stretched above to keep off the rays of the sun.
-Then it would become unbearably hot, and I
-would retreat to the airless cabin once more
-until the cool of the evening approached. All
-day long the sails flapped aimlessly and the
-blocks thudded loudly on the deck, for the
-breeze was usually too light to help us. Towards
-evening a wind sprang up, but too late to enable
-us to make for an anchorage among the reefs in
-the treacherous half-light. Matters improved as
-we got farther down the coast, however, and
-though on the last day we saw a waterspout in
-the distance we met with no mishaps, and
-finally reached our journey’s end in safety.</p>
-
-<p>Though there are marked differences in the
-Papuans themselves, as well as in their dwellings
-and languages, the time will come, no doubt,
-when, under the influence of the white man,
-they will abandon their primitive Stone Age
-ways for twentieth-century ones. Then,
-probably, much of their charm will vanish.
-They may reap many benefits, but, as with so
-many other savage races, it is more than likely
-that the change will not be altogether to their
-advantage. At any rate, I am glad that I have
-lived with them and known them at home,
-while they are still unspoiled children of
-Nature.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img src="images/i063.jpg"
-alt="" />
-</div>
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_377">377</span></p>
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="My_Experiences" src="images/i064a.jpg"
-alt="" />
-<h2><span class="hidden">My Experiences in Algeria.<br /></span>
-
-<span class="smcap medium">By the Baroness de Boerio.</span></h2>
-</div>
-
-<blockquote>
-
-<p>The Baroness’s husband, an officer in the French army, was ordered to Algeria, and took his wife
-and children with him. There, located at a tiny post far from civilization, in the midst of fierce and
-unruly tribes, the authoress met with some very strange adventures, which she here sets forth in a
-chatty and amusing fashion.</p></blockquote>
-
-<h3>II.</h3>
-
-<div>
-<img class="drop-cap" src="images/s.jpg" alt="S" />
-</div>
-
-<p class="drop-cap"><span class="upper-case">Some</span> time after my arrival at Teniet-el-Haad
-my husband and I, together
-with our first lieutenant and his wife,
-were invited to a “diffa” given in
-our honour by a Caid named Si
-Benrajah.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a href="images/i064b.jpg">
-<img src="images/i064b.jpg"
-alt="" /></a>
-<p class="caption">THE FRINGE OF THE DESERT.<br />
-<i>From a Photograph.</i></p>
-</div>
-
-<p>He most politely sent his wagonette to fetch
-us and was at the door of his house to receive
-us. He was a tall, good-looking man, and his
-costume was exquisite. His <i>serronal</i>, or wide
-trousers, were of pale-grey satin cloth, the large
-pockets on each side richly embroidered in silk
-braid of the same shade. Silver lace covered
-his short bolero, which opened over a shirt
-which was a mass of green and red silk, gold
-and silver embroidery. Over that again he
-wore a lovely white silk “haik,” which, covering
-his head-dress and kept in place by the “camel
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_378">378</span>
-cords,” fell round his shoulders, and was then
-caught up in front from the knee to the gold
-waistbelt by a cerise coloured silk handkerchief.
-Over his shoulders hung his burnous, the outer
-one of fine grey cloth to match the costume,
-handsomely embroidered at the corners and
-round the hood, the under one of fine white
-flannel.</p>
-
-<p>He led us majestically
-into his “drawing-room”&mdash;which,
-alas! bore unmistakable
-traces of the
-Caid’s various journeys
-to Paris. There was
-nothing Arab but the
-lovely carpets and the
-smell.</p>
-
-<p>A rickety Louis XV.
-<i>canap&eacute;</i>, with chairs to
-match, stood stiffly
-against the walls; their
-coverings of chintz
-badly wanted washing.
-An oval table, a walnutwood
-wardrobe, a
-washing-stand without
-the accessories, and
-two big mirrors, whose
-frames had once been
-gilded, completed the
-furniture. We here
-partook of refreshments
-in the unromantic
-shape of absinthe
-and lemonade, accompanied
-by Huntley and
-Palmer’s biscuits and
-wafers. I was much
-disappointed, for I had
-hoped to see something
-more Arab and
-to eat and drink according
-to the customs
-of the land. I supposed
-this was “progress”
-in Benrajah’s
-idea; at any rate, he
-looked most satisfied
-with himself and his
-surroundings. He introduced
-another Caid to us&mdash;the Caid of
-Biskra, I think, who was passing through&mdash;a
-fine, handsome man, whose photograph is here
-reproduced.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a href="images/i065.jpg">
-<img src="images/i065.jpg"
-alt="" /></a>
-<p class="caption">THE CAID OF BISKRA.<br />
-[<i>From a Photograph.</i>]</p>
-</div>
-
-<p>We breakfasted in a large tent, as Benrajah
-said it was still too warm in the house. Remembering
-the close, “camelly” sort of smell, I quite
-agreed with him.</p>
-
-<p>As we entered the tent Mme. G&mdash;&mdash;, the
-lieutenant’s wife, whispered to me, “Now, mind
-you don’t refuse a single dish the Caid offers
-you. If you do you will mortally offend him,
-especially as it is the first time you break bread
-under his roof, and the ‘diffa’ is in your honour.”</p>
-
-<p>“All right,” I answered, cheerily.</p>
-
-<p>“Bon! bon! bon!”
-she cried. “Don’t
-forget, you <i>must</i> eat
-everything he offers
-you.” She skipped off
-roaring with laughter,
-which, at the time, I
-thought very silly of
-her.</p>
-
-<p>I was again very disappointed
-by the civilized,
-European way in
-which we ate. Instead
-of squatting
-cross-legged on the
-ground, eating with
-brotherly love out of
-the same dish with a
-wooden spoon or our
-fingers, we sat round a
-well-laid table, with
-knives and forks, and
-dinner-napkins embroidered
-with the
-Caid’s initials. Everyone
-and everything is
-getting so horribly civilized
-nowadays, I reflected,
-sadly.</p>
-
-<p>The repast began
-with a red-hot liquid
-in which vermicelli
-floated. It burnt my
-unaccustomed mouth
-and I did not fall in
-love with it, but as I
-had never tasted anything
-like it before I
-did not even want to
-refuse when the Caid
-offered me a second
-helping. After the
-soup came some boiled
-chicken, on which the
-red liquid had been poured. He helped me
-largely&mdash;twice. The third course was mutton,
-with prunes; the fourth mutton, with red
-liquid; the fifth a French <i>rago&ucirc;t</i>, with an Arab
-taste; the sixth was chicken without the red
-liquid; the seventh an Irish stew gone wrong;
-the eighth&mdash;well, perhaps my readers are
-beginning to feel as tired as I did after having
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_379">379</span>
-partaken twice of all these dishes. Indeed, I
-was beginning to feel very serious, and longed
-ardently for the end of this Gargantuan repast.</p>
-
-<p>After about the twelfth course an Arab in
-waiting cleared a space on the table before the
-Caid. My hopes were raised to the heights,
-but, alas! only to fall to the lowest depths in a
-very short space of time. Suddenly something
-knocked my hat on one side, and everyone
-yelled at me. Dazed, I looked round and
-rubbed my nose into a sheep’s leg. Starting
-back, I met the convulsed and, as I imagined,
-reproachful eye of an enormous sheep lying in
-a contorted attitude on a big brass platter.
-Si Benrajah
-turned to me with
-a gracious smile.
-“I am much
-honoured, madam,”
-he said, in
-perfect French,
-“in being the
-first to offer you
-a ‘meshui’ on
-your arrival in
-Algeria.”</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a href="images/i066.jpg">
-<img src="images/i066.jpg"
-alt="" /></a>
-<p class="caption">A TYPICAL ARAB HUT.<br />
-[<i>From a Photograph.</i>]</p>
-</div>
-
-<p>A “meshui,” I
-learnt, is a royal
-dish, and is only
-offered to those
-the Arabs delight
-(or are compelled)
-to honour.
-It is simply a
-whole sheep
-roasted over
-wood embers,
-and served uncut
-on a brass or
-silver platter. It
-should not be cut
-with a knife, but
-torn off with the
-fingers and eaten.
-If you wish to be
-particularly polite to a friend who is present,
-you wrench off a piece of flesh and present it
-with your greasy fingers, and he receives it
-much flattered, returning the compliment with
-<i>his</i> greasy fingers. This style of eating was
-certainly not over-civilized, so I ought to have
-been better pleased than I was. As a matter
-of fact I felt very bad, and hoped against hope
-that the Caid would forget me.</p>
-
-<p>“You are not yet accustomed to our habits,”
-he said, kindly. “Take a knife and fork and
-cut off the meat.”</p>
-
-<p>So I cut off a few small bits in a dilatory way,
-secretly wondering if I could not surreptitiously
-throw them to some lean, hungry dogs who were
-peering into the tent door.</p>
-
-<p>“What silly little bits!” cried Benrajah,
-laughingly. Then, after well licking his brown,
-henna-stained fingers, he tore off a huge piece
-and offered it to me! A cold perspiration broke
-out on my forehead, and I almost longed for
-death.</p>
-
-<p>“Eat! eat!” he cried, gaily; and, choking
-down my despair, I ate.</p>
-
-<p>How could I dare to do otherwise after
-Mme. G&mdash;&mdash;’s warning? Are not the laws
-of hospitality sacred and to be observed
-throughout the world? But it was terrible
-tribute to pay to
-foreign customs,
-and I felt a lesser
-desire for originality.</p>
-
-<p>“It is good?”
-inquired the Caid.</p>
-
-<p>“Delicious!
-delicious!” I
-answered, with a
-ghastly green
-smile.</p>
-
-<p>“Ah! Here
-is a <i>comme il faut
-Roumia</i>!” he
-cried, enchanted&mdash;and
-promptly
-tore me off a
-beautiful brown
-piece of meat,
-weighing, I should
-think, about three
-pounds! My cup
-of anguish was
-full, and I prayed&mdash;yes,
-actually
-prayed&mdash;to be
-delivered from
-that three pounds
-of meat.</p>
-
-<p>And I was.</p>
-
-<p>Crash! The table-cloth was half dragged off,
-and, amid a rain of knives and forks, plates and
-glasses, my little girl rolled on to the ground.
-I did not lose my presence of mind, but, seizing
-my pounds of meat, all unseen in the commotion
-I threw them to the lean dogs, who made very
-short work of them. Then my motherly feelings
-came to the fore, and I went to the rescue of my
-child. It was soon apparent what had happened&mdash;the
-poor mite had been given too much
-wine by the thoughtless Mme. G&mdash;&mdash;, and
-was very seedy for some days afterwards.</p>
-
-<p>It would be reasonable to suppose that the
-“meshui” was the last of the courses, but it
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_380">380</span>
-disappeared only to give place to the Arab
-national dish, the “couscous.” At sight of the
-snowy pile of rolled semolina, surmounted by
-more mutton, a feeling of revolt took possession
-of me. I felt I could dare Lucifer himself;
-and so I refused the couscous, although in a
-cowardly way, by pretending that fresh air was
-necessary for my poor little Ren&eacute;e. Perhaps it
-was, but if it had not been I should have said
-the same.</p>
-
-<p>I do not think I ever quite forgave Mme.
-G&mdash;&mdash; her two practical jokes, for practical
-jokes they were. When I described my sufferings
-at having to eat all the Caid gave me, she
-laughed herself ill and said, “What a ‘blue’ you
-are!” Which is the French military way of
-calling you a greenhorn.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a href="images/i067.jpg">
-<img src="images/i067.jpg"
-alt="" /></a>
-<p class="caption">“I LOOKED ROUND JUST IN TIME TO SEE AN ARAB LOWERING HIS GUN.”</p>
-</div>
-
-<p>One of my husband’s great amusements in
-this out-of-the-way garrison was to construct a
-hiding-place, in front of which he fixed the
-carcass of some dead animal, and there, gun in
-hand, to await the wild beasts such as hyenas,
-jackals, lynxes, and golden foxes, who scented
-from afar the goodly supper awaiting them.
-On these occasions they generally found too
-much pepper, and often suffered from a mortal
-indigestion. I sometimes accompanied my
-husband on such expeditions, and greatly
-enjoyed crouching silently in some hidden
-corner, listening to the wailing of an approaching
-hyena, or the querulous squabbling and
-howling of the shrieking jackals. And then,
-when the dry sticks cracked and the dead leaves
-rustled quite close to me under their stealthy
-pads, my heart would leap into my mouth for
-fear they should mistake <i>me</i> for their supper.
-One night whilst thus listening to some
-approaching creature my husband, crouching
-about twenty yards from me, suddenly rose
-up and called out in Arabic, “Who goes
-there?” I looked round just in time to see an
-Arab huntsman lowering his gun, which was
-pointed full at <i>me</i>. He thought I was a hyena!</p>
-
-<p>During the winter, when the snow lay thick
-on the ground, I preferred staying at home to
-keep up a huge fire and fabricate hot drinks in
-readiness for the frozen huntsman’s return; it
-seemed to me more a wife’s duty!</p>
-
-<p>Another short incident of my life in Teniet-el-Haad
-may not be uninteresting. My husband
-had gone to the manœuvres with his Spahis, and
-our <i>bordj</i> was only guarded by about thirty
-“Tirailleurs Algerians.” Then, one day, a
-terrific storm burst over the land. The air
-was so thick with fine sand that I could not
-distinguish the trees before my windows, and the
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_381">381</span>
-sun hung in the sky like a lurid orange ball,
-seemingly about to drop. The heat was stifling;
-one gasped for breath, and, although every door
-and window was hermetically closed, the rooms
-were full of sand.</p>
-
-<p>Presently a terrible clamour arose from the
-village&mdash;shouts, cries, screams, gun-shots. Then
-from the <i>bordj</i> courtyard I heard sharp orders
-given, the clanking of weapons, and finally the
-sound of a body of infantry running. The wind
-howled and shrieked, the sand-storm grew
-denser and denser, and still the clamour continued
-in the village. I sat in the drawing-room
-with my little ones around me, wondering if it
-were a serious revolt, and what would happen to
-us if it were. For the district of Teniet-el-Haad
-was a large one, containing thirty thousand
-Arabs, and we were far from any important
-garrison, while our protectors, all Arab, consisted
-of thirty “tirailleurs,” and ten Spahis
-belonging to the “Commune Mixte.” Pensively
-I placed my revolver close to my hand,
-and waited anxiously.</p>
-
-<p>After a few hours the sirocco cleared somewhat,
-the noise ceased, and the tirailleurs
-returned. The whole affair, they told me, had
-been got up by the mountain Arabs against the
-Jews, who had been “doing” them. So the
-Arabs had taken the law into their own hands
-and administered justice by repaying themselves
-a hundred-fold and making off with their booty
-up the mountains, well hidden by the sand-storm.
-In the scuffle a boy and two men were
-killed, all Jews&mdash;so it did not matter, so the
-folks said.</p>
-
-<p>My husband was second captain at Teniet-el-Haad,
-having given up his rank as first captain
-in the Hussars in order to facilitate his return to
-a regiment. He was therefore the oldest in
-grade in the 1st Spahis, and the earliest vacancy
-as first captain fell to him. We had been at
-Teniet about ten months when he received
-orders to take command of the Laghouat
-squadron. It was the beginning of February;
-snow lay thick and deep on the ground up in
-this high altitude, and the great question arose
-how we were to get to Laghouat. Should we
-take the short cut by carriage across the mountains
-to Boghar, where the regimental brake
-would meet us and take us on, or go down to
-Affreville by the rickety diligence, train to
-Medeah, and continue by carriage?</p>
-
-<p>Going by train was a difficulty and an extra
-expense on account of our dogs. We had four&mdash;three
-fox-terriers and a shooting dog. I do
-not know what he called himself, but he had a
-double-barrelled nose and an over-frank and
-exuberant nature. He and Charleston, the old
-fox, could not bear each other. It was quite
-impossible to put them together in the dog-box,
-and to pack them separately would have cost as
-much as four times as many children. So, in
-consideration of their feelings and our purse, we
-decided&mdash;oh, irony!&mdash;to take the short cut if
-the snow and slush would allow of a carriage
-travelling along the narrow mountain tracks.</p>
-
-<p>We consulted the different French and native
-authorities, and finally decided, if the snow and
-slush would allow, to take the short cut over
-the mountains. We started off one fine
-morning at five, in a small brake lent by a Caid,
-who also promised to send us four strong mules
-to an inn some twenty miles off. The first
-twenty miles were soon done, and at half-past
-seven we were enjoying some good hot coffee,
-whilst our Spahi was unharnessing his team and
-making inquiries as to the whereabouts of the
-new relay and coachman. Ten minutes after
-he appeared, with a very concerned face. “Mon
-capitaine, Sidi Belgacun has sent two mules no
-bigger than donkeys, and the boy who drives
-them is a mere baby!”</p>
-
-<p>This sounded cheerful, and with one accord
-we went out to inspect. The Spahi’s account was
-unfortunately but slightly exaggerated, and we
-stood staring at our tiny steeds with dismay. We
-had still fifty kilometres before us, and the roads
-for at least twenty-five were nothing but cross-country
-paths. Should we turn back, or try to
-find other horses and go on? I voted emphatically
-for going on. Aided by the Spahi,
-my husband finally unearthed a man and two
-horses, and at eight o’clock we set off once
-more.</p>
-
-<p>Everything again went well for ten kilometres;
-then our misfortunes really began. When going
-up a hill the ground grew soft and the wheels
-of the brake sank in.</p>
-
-<p>“The snow is melting farther on,” remarked
-the coachman, laconically; “the underground
-springs are overflowing.”</p>
-
-<p>On we went laboriously, our Jehu yelling at
-the struggling horses, whilst the carriage wobbled
-to and fro in a most alarming fashion. “Don’t
-you think it would do us good to walk a bit?”
-I suggested. “It would make things easier for
-the horses.”</p>
-
-<p>“It would be safer,” said my husband, who
-was looking anxious.</p>
-
-<p>So out we got&mdash;and two minutes later the
-whole concern toppled over, our boxes, portmanteaux,
-and packets flying all over the place.
-The horses were plunging and kicking; the
-coachman, an Italian, and the Arab boy
-were yelling and swearing in their respective
-languages, whilst my husband <i>exclaimed</i> in
-French (he doesn’t swear, but I am sure he
-would have liked to on this occasion). The
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_382">382</span>
-scene was so unutterably comic that I could not
-help myself; I laughed until the tears rolled
-down my cheeks. I draw a curtain over the
-face my better half turned on me&mdash;scowling was
-not in it&mdash;and although I assured him I was
-really quite as upset as the carriage he has not
-recovered from my frivolity to this day.</p>
-
-<p>The men picked up the carriage and the
-baggage and put all in order and we thought we
-should get on again, but, alas! the wheels refused
-to move an inch; the more we tried the deeper
-they sank. After two hours of vain endeavour,
-Peppino, the coachman, suggested sending Ali
-to have a look round the country to see if he
-could find a village and get men with spades
-to come and dig us out. The boy set off,
-returning later with five stalwart men, who
-comparatively soon dug us out and accompanied
-us for a few kilometres on our way,
-pushing and yelling when necessary. Then
-they left us, saying the road was good right up
-to Boghar. It was now past two o’clock, and
-our lunch loomed very dimly in the far distance,
-having been ordered for twelve o’clock at Boghar.</p>
-
-<p>About three o’clock we saw snow on the side
-of the road, which again grew slushy and soft.
-My husband and Peppino were obliged to run
-behind, pushing at the wheels at the difficult
-places, whilst the Arab boy cheered on his mules
-and Peppino’s horses.</p>
-
-<p>The snow got deeper and deeper. Presently
-we passed a carriage abandoned on the side of
-the road, farther on a dead horse, and again a
-form, which looked terribly human, covered by
-a white pall.</p>
-
-<p>After a while we came to a wider part. On
-the right was a sloping mountain-side half
-covered with snow, half with golden narcissus,
-and showing a dry watercourse, dotted about with
-huge stones. On the left was a smooth field
-of snow, across which wheel marks could be
-distinguished. “We must cross here,” said
-Peppino, “as someone has before us; the snow
-is doubtless hard, and by whipping up the horses
-I will get you over. The road is impossible.”</p>
-
-<p>My husband was not of the same opinion.
-He considered the watercourse a better road
-than a snow-field, and the presence of stones
-made him surmise that the bottom was hard.</p>
-
-<p>The matter was hotly discussed, but finally
-my husband gave in, seeing that Peppino knew
-the road and he did not.</p>
-
-<p>Away we galloped&mdash;bump, bump, bump.
-Then, without warning, there came a tremendous
-crack, and, lo and behold! there we were, sitting
-in our carriage, whilst the horses and Peppino
-continued with the wheels! It was, of course,
-a terrible dilemma, but again I had to laugh; it
-was really too funny.</p>
-
-<p>My husband and Peppino carried me and the
-children and perched each of us on a stone,
-where I stood on one leg and cawed like a crow.
-“One should always take misfortunes gaily,”
-I said. That was the last straw; my better half
-had to laugh, but the smile was rather sickly.
-Then we held a council of war.</p>
-
-<p>Peppino, good man, saved the situation.
-“I will go back with the horses and fetch the
-carriage we saw abandoned at the side of the
-road,” he said. “I know the owner, and will
-take the responsibility for borrowing it on my
-own shoulders.”</p>
-
-<p>So off he went, whilst we cawed to one
-another from stone to stone and ate snow,
-there being nothing else to do. Before long
-Peppino returned triumphantly with the borrowed
-carriage, the luggage was transferred, and we
-started off again, leaving our first equipage
-standing disconsolately in the snow.</p>
-
-<p>All went well until eight o’clock, although my
-husband and Peppino had constantly to push at
-the wheels. They both looked ten years older
-than at the start, so lined and weary were their
-faces. At about eight we came to a narrow
-track, a real road winding round the mountain
-above a fathomless precipice. On each side
-the snow lay in drifts of five and six feet deep,
-and the centre track showed no sign of previous
-passage.</p>
-
-<p>We had not gone fifty yards along this road
-when the horses stopped and the wheels disappeared
-in a drift. Yelling, pushing, and pulling
-had no effect whatever. The horses were then
-harnessed to the splash-board, but their strenuous
-efforts only resulted in tearing it from the body
-of the carriage.</p>
-
-<p>All this time I was sitting in the snow trying
-to keep the little one warm, and hopefully
-encouraging the two elder ones, Charlie and
-Ren&eacute;e. From the mountain top came the discordant
-howling and barking of jackals; from
-the blackness below arose the sad wailing of a
-hyena. I very nearly became tearful.</p>
-
-<p>Peppino again offered his services, and proposed
-riding off to fetch help at a sheikh’s some
-ten miles away.</p>
-
-<p>“Get into the carriage, wrap yourselves up
-warmly with everything available, and wait,” he
-said. “In five or six hours I will bring assistance.”</p>
-
-<p>There was nothing else to be done, so we
-made the best of a bad job, packed ourselves
-up, and tried to sleep. The children, of course,
-succeeded at once, as did my husband, worn
-out with the efforts of the day, but I could not.
-My hunger was great, and I do not think I have
-ever before or since imagined such cold. Talk
-of African heat; African <i>cold</i> has the first place
-in my memory.
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_383">383</span></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a href="images/i070.jpg">
-<img src="images/i070.jpg"
-alt="" /></a>
-<p class="caption">“I KICKED VIGOROUSLY, SHOUTING ‘HENRI!’ AND ‘PEPPINO!’”</p>
-</div>
-
-<p>The night was pitch-dark, and it was far from
-amusing to sit there listening to the animals
-prowling round. A hyena or so came very near
-to our mules, who shivered and snorted for a
-long time after.</p>
-
-<p>Numbed with cold, I suppose I at last fell
-asleep. Suddenly I was awakened by a great
-commotion. Then came yelling, the sound of
-horses plunging, and I heard the children
-shrieking “Mother!” I rose precipitately, a
-light flashed in my face, baby was seized from
-me, and I myself was borne off like an infant
-by a man who appeared to be a giant. He
-hurried away up the mountain-side without a
-word, which did not at all seem to me the right
-behaviour of rescuers. Why thus seize us and
-bear us off into the mountains?</p>
-
-<p>We must have been attacked by brigands, and
-my husband knifed as he slept! I kicked
-vigorously, shouting “Henri!” and “Peppino!”
-but received no answer, and my heart sank. Then
-I called “Charlie!” “Ren&eacute;e!” and to my great
-joy their voices answered quite close behind me.
-I therefore left off kicking&mdash;which, indeed, had
-no effect on my burly captor&mdash;and consoled
-myself with the thought that, though apparently
-a widow, I was not left childless.</p>
-
-<p>After five minutes or so my giant began to
-shout. Other voices answered; then suddenly
-I was planted on my feet in the inky darkness,
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_384">384</span>
-but almost at once a dozen matches were struck
-and held to a huge heap of dry brushwood. In
-two seconds we had a royal bonfire, which not
-only warmed us but lit up the country all round.</p>
-
-<p>Brigands or no brigands, I thought, these
-Arabs were very thoughtful fellows.</p>
-
-<p>I asked several times, “Where is my husband?”
-but they all raised their hands and
-shoulders in vague denial of any knowledge of
-his existence. I
-was beginning to
-be really alarmed
-when his welcome
-form loomed in
-view astride a mule.
-I do not think we
-have ever quite
-understood how he
-came to miss us in
-the confusion
-caused by the headlong
-arrival of our
-rescuers. He had
-galloped after us
-along a road where
-we had not been at
-all; but, not finding
-us, had come
-back, and had been
-guided by the firelight.</p>
-
-<p>After a good
-warming at the fire
-we started for the
-sheikh’s house, ten
-miles off, the children
-being carried
-by Arabs on horseback,
-and I astride
-a mule on a “barda.”
-On our arrival we
-found couscous and
-sour milk awaiting
-us, and&mdash;what was
-far better&mdash;some good mattresses spread on the
-ground in a big, white-washed room. At ten
-next morning we left, the kindly sheikh having
-lent us his wagonette. Peppino had gone back
-with some Arabs to dig out and bring along
-Carriage Number Two.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a href="images/i071.jpg">
-<img src="images/i071.jpg"
-alt="" /></a>
-<p class="caption">THE BARONESS DE BOERIO, WHO HERE DESCRIBES HER ADVENTURES
-IN ALGERIA.<br />
-[<i>From a Photograph.</i>]</p>
-</div>
-
-<p>About half-way to Boghar we met the
-regimental brake coming spanking along. The
-soldier driving told us that at eight o’clock an
-Arab had come to him saying that he was to
-harness up at once and drive for eight miles
-along the Teniet road, when he would find the
-Spahis’ captain, who was stranded with his
-family at Sheikh ben Shinan’s.</p>
-
-<p>This experience of Arab telegraphy rather
-astonished us, for we were still greenhorns in
-this respect. Since then nothing of the kind
-surprises us; I have often learnt of distant
-happenings from the Arabs long before our own
-civilized methods brought me the news. Arabs
-travel a great deal
-by night, passing
-on the tidings from
-one to another&mdash;they
-are terrible
-gossips&mdash;so that it
-is the case of the
-hare and the tortoise.
-Their signalling
-is done by
-movements of the
-burnous by day and
-fires by night. In
-each district certain
-heights are especially
-used for this
-purpose. Whilst
-travelling by road
-on one occasion I
-remember hearing
-a long hoot-like call,
-and on looking in
-the direction of the
-sound I saw an Arab
-on a hill, evidently
-signalling with his
-burnous, for he was
-making regular up-and-down
-and to-and-fro
-movements
-with it. Half an hour
-after we saw another
-Arab with a huge
-flock of sheep. In
-the evening, when
-we arrived at the place we meant to camp at, we
-found ourselves expected by the sheikh, and a
-hospitable couscous prepared. He bade us
-welcome, saying we were later than he had
-thought. When we inquired how it was he expected
-us at all, he only vouchsafed to say, with half-closed
-eyes, that he had known we were on the
-road some hours before, and had supposed we
-would stop the night there. Thereupon we remembered
-the white-robed Arab on the hill and
-the shepherd far away, and began to understand.</p>
-
-<p class="caption">(<i>To be concluded.</i>)
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_385">385</span></p>
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="Shot-Gun_Jim" src="images/i072a.jpg"
-alt="Shot-Gun Jim." />
-<h2><span class="hidden">“Shot-Gun Jim.”<br /></span>
-<span class="smcap medium">By Edward Franklin Campbell.</span></h2>
-</div>
-
-<blockquote>
-
-<p>It is safe to say that few commercial travellers meet with such exciting experiences as befell the
-three “drummers” who figure in this narrative. A business trip into the wilds of Arizona landed
-them into as fierce a skirmish with Indian outlaws as could well be imagined.</p></blockquote>
-
-<div>
-<img class="drop-cap" src="images/t.jpg" alt="T" />
-</div>
-
-<p class="drop-cap"><span class="upper-case">Take</span> a young fellow just raw from
-city life, throw him into the wilds
-of Arizona, and arrange for him to
-tumble head-first, so to speak, into
-a brisk skirmish with Indians, and
-he will have something to remember. Such
-was the experience which befell me about 1890.</p>
-
-<p>For some years I had been travelling through
-California, visiting the
-largest cities and towns,
-introducing a “line” of
-goods for a large San
-Francisco importing
-concern. Such had been
-my success that nothing
-would suit my firm but
-to add Arizona to my
-territory, a proposition
-I made no objection to.</p>
-
-<p>Of late years Arizona
-has vastly improved, and
-trouble with the Indians
-has become almost unknown,
-especially since
-that notorious warrior,
-Geronimo, was deported
-to the State of Florida,
-but up to the ‘nineties
-there was still an occasional
-flare-up.</p>
-
-<p>Both Geronimo and
-the villainous “Apache
-Kid,” a bloodthirsty red-skin
-brigand, figure in
-this story, the first indirectly
-and the second
-very prominently.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a href="images/i072b.jpg">
-<img src="images/i072b.jpg"
-alt="" /></a>
-<p class="caption">THE AUTHOR, MR. EDWARD FRANKLIN CAMPBELL.<br />
-<i>From a Photograph.</i></p>
-</div>
-
-<p>Having reached the
-town of Wilson, in the
-southern part of the
-territory, I fell in with two fellow-commercial
-salesmen&mdash;Levy, representing a large dry-goods
-concern, and Bates, handling a line of boots for
-a St. Louis house.</p>
-
-<p>Levy imparted the fact that he was going to
-visit a large mining camp, called World City,
-located some hundred and sixty miles to the
-north and as many miles distant from the railway.
-Bates said he would join Levy provided
-I would make one of the party.</p>
-
-<p>Although my route did not include this side-trip,
-I became convinced that it would pay me
-well to visit World City. By sharing expenses
-with Levy and Bates, the
-trip could be made most
-reasonably, so I wired
-my house accordingly,
-and Levy hastened to
-make arrangements
-with a local celebrity,
-a Scotchman named
-McGill, for transportation.</p>
-
-<p>An agreement having
-been made with McGill,
-the balance of the day
-was consumed in making
-preparations for our
-departure on the following
-morning. There
-were blankets to buy,
-for one is never safe
-without them. No
-matter how hot and
-burning the day may
-be, the nights are always
-crisp and chill on the
-Arizona plains, and one
-never knows while making
-such a trip when he
-will land at his destination.
-Nine chances out
-of ten he will be hours
-late. Our journey was
-no exception to the rule.</p>
-
-<p>On the following morning I was aroused by
-McGill. On the wagon, which was a heavy
-four-wheel affair, he had loaded three shoe-sample
-trunks, the property of Bates, and two
-immense square trunks carried by Levy. Beside
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_386">386</span>
-this there were sundry boxes and bundles of
-blankets, as well as our heavy overcoats and
-small personal luggage.</p>
-
-<p>After a hasty breakfast of ham and eggs&mdash;I
-generally ordered ham and eggs in Arizona
-because other meats were far from tender in
-those days&mdash;we took our places on the wagon.
-Levy occupied the front seat with McGill, while
-Bates and I sat on top of a huge trunk, slippery
-and uncertain.</p>
-
-<p>Although the animals seemed good and hardy,
-they were small, and I do not think we realized
-the great weight of the combined load. At the
-wheels we had a pair of small and nimble mules,
-and as leaders a pair of small bay horses, whose
-looks did not recommend them.</p>
-
-<p>The first day out all went well, and we reached
-the little town of Bonita, a most desolate-looking
-place. We had travelled less than thirty miles.</p>
-
-<p>We drove up to the door of a little adobe
-building with a thatched roof. On the front a
-crude sign informed the public that it was a
-“General Store.” Another placard indicated
-that it was also a public-house, or “saloon,” as
-they are called in America.</p>
-
-<p>On entering we found ourselves in a small
-room with a rough counter running down one
-side, behind which was the smiling face of the
-proprietor, who lived with his wife and two
-beautiful daughters in the one adjoining room&mdash;these
-two rooms constituting the entire building.</p>
-
-<p>We spent the night on the floor of the store,
-in front of the counter, and next morning
-resumed our journey, hoping to reach the little
-group of buildings known as Standard before
-night. In my own mind&mdash;and I think the
-others believed the same&mdash;I did not really
-expect to reach Standard that night, for it was
-nearly fifty miles distant and our animals were
-far from fresh.</p>
-
-<p>I think it was about ten o’clock in the morning
-that we saw a cloud of dust several miles ahead.
-In time it proved to be a company of negro
-soldiers, marching to a neighbouring military
-post.</p>
-
-<p>As they came alongside we could see a
-number of rifles sticking out of the canvas of
-the great covered wagons which accompanied
-them. They halted, and an officer, whom
-McGill said was a colonel, came over. He
-saluted us pleasantly and asked laughingly:&mdash;</p>
-
-<p>“Are you not afraid to travel in this direction?”</p>
-
-<p>McGill inquired why, whereupon the officer
-explained that “Apache Kid” was out with a
-small band of warriors, that Geronimo had
-disappeared from the Indian Reservation, and
-that serious trouble was brewing. The troops,
-he added, were being moved for the purpose of
-heading off “Apache Kid” and his crowd.</p>
-
-<p>The smiling face of the colonel rather misled
-me. He did not seem really serious, and, as I
-sized up the situation, I believed it quite possible
-that he recognised our party as “tenderfeet,”
-and desired to frighten us.</p>
-
-<p>After the soldiers had become a mere blur in
-the distance we resumed our journey. We had
-gone but a few miles farther, however, when an
-accident occurred to our wagon. Something
-gave way&mdash;I don’t remember what&mdash;and it
-became impossible to proceed. Levy took a
-look at the wagon and declared it was “no good,
-anyway”; Bates joined in the abuse, and McGill
-lost his temper. Finally, I acted as peacemaker,
-and suggested that something would have to be
-done as the afternoon was advancing. Either
-we must return to Bonita on foot, abandoning the
-wagon and contents, or McGill would have to
-take the team back and secure another conveyance.</p>
-
-<p>The last alternative being accepted, we drew
-lots, and it fell to Levy to return to Bonita with
-McGill, while Bates and I remained to look after
-the property.</p>
-
-<p>McGill insisted that with the load off he would
-be able to haul the wagon back to Bonita for
-repairs, so we set to work and, after a struggle
-with the trunks, got the vehicle in shape to be
-drawn.</p>
-
-<p>It was with great misgivings that I saw my
-companions depart. It was not to my liking to
-remain as a guardian of that mass of luggage.
-Bates did not seem to mind it. He simply
-offered me his last cigar, then lighted it himself
-and sat down on the bare ground.</p>
-
-<p>I think we could see in every direction for
-twenty miles and more, except toward the
-mountains, which were to the east, some five
-miles distant.</p>
-
-<p>“Well, Bates,” I said, “what are we going to
-do? It’s getting mighty cold. The wind
-sweeps down from that mountain as if we might
-get a little of the storm brewing up there.”</p>
-
-<p>“That’s no mistake, my boy, and if I am not
-in error we are going to get snow inside of two
-hours. Most extraordinary for Arizona.”</p>
-
-<p>“Don’t you think we could arrange some
-shelter with these trunks and roll of canvas?”</p>
-
-<p>“Just the thing, my boy. Glad you suggested
-it.”</p>
-
-<p>So we set to work and built our house, forming
-our walls by arranging the trunks in a square,
-leaving a small opening to be used as a door.
-On this we spread the great piece of canvas
-which had been brought along to cover the
-wagon in case of storm, thus making a roof.
-That it might not be carried away by the wind,
-which was now howling like a hurricane, we
-weighted it with small boulders. With other
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_387">387</span>
-rocks we built a small fireplace and chimney,
-without and facing our door. With the limited
-supply of wood, which was very scarce&mdash;sagebrush
-and gnarled mesquite&mdash;we built a small
-fire in our fireplace, much to our joy, for we
-were now actually blue with the cold.</p>
-
-<p>The sky was now thoroughly overcast with
-snow-clouds and the snow was beginning to fall,
-settling in miniature drifts beneath the sage
-bushes.</p>
-
-<p>In removing the trunks from the wagon our
-labours had been heavy, and we realized, as
-Bates expressed it, “we were twenty miles
-from nowhere, and not a drop of water nearer
-than Bonita.”</p>
-
-<p>Bates rummaged through the kit for a drink
-of any kind, but was only able to produce a
-diminutive flask with about one swallow of
-whisky in it. After offering this to me he took
-it down with a cheering “Here’s to you!”</p>
-
-<p>“Don’t throw away that flask, Bates,” I
-called to him as I saw him taking aim at a near-by
-sage bush. “I may be able to collect a
-drink with that.”</p>
-
-<p>I filled the little flask as full as I could
-pack it with snow which I collected under the
-bushes, then held it carefully over the fire,
-reducing the snow to water. This barely gave
-us enough to moisten our lips, and I gave it up.</p>
-
-<p>Then we wrapped ourselves up in our blankets
-and reclined inside our improvised house and
-discussed matters.</p>
-
-<p>“I say, Bates, what did you think of the
-colonel’s story about Apaches being out?” I
-asked.</p>
-
-<p>“Can’t say. I know if I were an Apache
-and had a warm wigwam to crawl into, the
-warpath could go to perdition. I’m sure I
-wouldn’t bother with it this kind of weather.
-You won’t have the pleasure of meeting Geronimo,
-’Apache Kid,’ nor any other human&mdash;and,
-I might add, inhuman&mdash;being till the
-weather lets up.”</p>
-
-<p>“What have you got for protection in case
-we do run across them?” I asked.</p>
-
-<p>“Well, the only protection I have is a pair of
-boots made by the Sun Shoe Company, which I
-represent. With these on, and a fair start, I
-might outrun them. That’s all I’ve got for
-protection. What have you got?”</p>
-
-<p>“Well,” I said, rather apologetically, “I have
-a revolver here, but it isn’t much good. It
-might do to fire salutes with, but I’m afraid it
-would not do much execution. The fact is,
-I’ve not fired the thing for some years.”</p>
-
-<p>“Now, look here, my boy. If you should
-ever shoot me with that thing, and I should
-find it out, I should be quite put out about it,”
-said Bates, with a laugh. “We might as well
-quit worrying. If the wild and woolly Apaches
-get us, it’s fate. They’ll get us, that’s all. I’m
-going to sleep.”</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a href="images/i074.jpg">
-<img src="images/i074.jpg"
-alt="" /></a>
-<p class="caption">LOOKING OUT OF BRICK DUST CANYON.<br />
-[<i>From a Photograph.</i>]</p>
-</div>
-
-<p>Suiting the action to the word, he rolled over
-and left me to my dreary thoughts. I tried to
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_388">388</span>
-sleep and did drop into a light slumber, from
-which I was suddenly awakened by a startled
-exclamation from Bates.</p>
-
-<p>As I opened my eyes he was just going
-through the doorway on all fours.</p>
-
-<p>“Bring that revolver here,” he called to
-me.</p>
-
-<p>As quickly as possible I was out after him.
-He was gazing towards the mountains in the
-distance.</p>
-
-<p>“What has happened?” I asked, in some
-alarm at the sudden call to arms.</p>
-
-<p>He explained that something had come to the
-door of our house. He could hear it, but only
-caught a slight glimpse of it as he raised his
-head, for it dashed out of sight immediately.
-It was evidently an animal of some sort, for we
-found the marks of its feet and claws in the soft
-earth. Whatever it was we never caught sight
-of it.</p>
-
-<p>We were now thoroughly awake. The weather
-had cleared, the sun was shining warmly and
-my spirits were beginning to rise.</p>
-
-<p>Far off, down the incline of the plain, we
-could see the spot known as Bonita. Between
-us and the town all was open, save for some
-sage bushes here and there dotting the
-view.</p>
-
-<p>Surely McGill should now be on his way
-back, but not a sign of him could we see.</p>
-
-<p>We recalled the fact that we were hungry.
-Bates rummaged in the kit. The net results
-were a small paper of biscuits and a tin of beef&mdash;nothing
-else.</p>
-
-<p>We ate all the biscuits and half of the beef,
-collected more firewood, and, at about six
-o’clock, discovered the team slowly wending
-its way from Bonita. It was more than an hour
-before it arrived at our camp.</p>
-
-<p>Another serious matter now confronted us.
-Either we must stay with our improvised camp
-or, as McGill suggested, make for Brick Dust
-Canyon, in the mountain, where lived a
-frontiersman named James W. Smith, who had
-a little farm situated on an oasis of productive
-earth in the midst of this vast wilderness of
-alkali and sand.</p>
-
-<p>Eventually we decided upon the latter alternative,
-and succeeded in loading up and making
-a start.</p>
-
-<p>For a long time we crept upward, no one
-riding except McGill, in order to relieve the
-tired animals.</p>
-
-<p>Reaching the summit of the ascent at last,
-McGill stopped, for we had now to descend
-into a deep canyon.</p>
-
-<p>Daylight had by this time given way to
-deepest night, and ahead all looked black and
-forbidding. Our driver could not even see the
-road, which was, moreover, obscured by a
-growth of trees in the canyon.</p>
-
-<p>“Gentlemen,” said McGill, “this rig has no
-brake to hold it. There is a big down-grade
-here and a sharp turn at the bottom. From
-there to Jim’s house is about a mile. We must
-manage to stop one of the hind wheels, for these
-mules will never be able to hold the load in
-check; besides, I can’t see the road, and must
-let the animals take their course.”</p>
-
-<p>We tied the right rear wheel with a stout bit
-of rope and started again, but with this difference&mdash;Levy,
-Bates, and I each lighted cigars, which
-Levy had brought from Bonita, and, puffing
-vigorously at these, walked ahead of the load,
-endeavouring to pilot McGill by the glow of the
-lighted “stogies.”</p>
-
-<p>There were times when the mules and the
-locked wheel were insufficient to check the
-wagon to any great extent, on account of the
-steepness of the grade, but at first all went well.
-It was not long before we reached the sharp
-turn at the bottom. We were greatly in advance
-of McGill now, and, indeed, we could hear
-nothing of him, so Levy went back to investigate
-and to warn him of the danger ahead. He
-found the wagon halted at a fairly level spot to
-recuperate the exhausted animals. Levy told
-the Scotsman that he was about to plunge down
-the last and most precipitous piece of road, and
-urged him to give it up.</p>
-
-<p>McGill was headstrong, however, and insisted
-upon going ahead, so we took up our stand with
-our cigars, to mark the turn at the bottom, and
-the big vehicle started.</p>
-
-<p>We could hear it gaining speed every moment.
-Mingled with the rumbling of the wagon and the
-clatter of the animals’ hoofs we heard the shouts
-of McGill, who had now lost all control over his
-team.</p>
-
-<p>On they came with a rush and a roar, and we,
-who were lighting the way, discovered we were
-in some danger. At the last moment we sprang
-back into the rocks and brush at the side as the
-team swept irresistibly on.</p>
-
-<p>The leaders took the turn all right, but the
-next instant there was a crash and a yell from
-McGill. The wagon had left the road and
-plunged into a tree, the harness gave way, and
-Bedlam broke loose.</p>
-
-<p>The Scotsman saved his skin by jumping fairly
-into a bush, while we sprang to the animals’
-heads to check them. They showed, however,
-no disposition on their part to run away; they
-knew when they had had enough.</p>
-
-<p>Away down in the distance we could see a
-light, which McGill said was at Jim’s house.
-He would leave us with the animals and seek
-assistance from the house, he told us.
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_389">389</span></p>
-
-<p>“I shall go across-lots,” he shouted back to
-us, “by a trail which will save a lot of walking.”</p>
-
-<p>For hours Bates, Levy, and I awaited his
-return in vain. We exhausted every topic of
-conversation we could think of, and at last,
-tired, disgusted, and feeling thoroughly out of
-sorts, we set off down the road, taking the
-animals with us.</p>
-
-<p>Although we could still see the light, we
-walked for a long time before we actually
-arrived before a small adobe
-house, which was surrounded
-by a thick wall some eight feet
-high. The road led us to a
-pair of huge solid gates, which,
-being closed, prevented us seeing
-within. We called out,
-and in a few seconds a voice
-answered us, and we were conscious
-of someone approaching
-the gates with a lantern.</p>
-
-<p>This proved to be Jim Smith
-himself. He seemed to be in
-a very merry mood, for,
-although we were total
-strangers, he almost laughed
-in our faces. He had a story
-to tell, it soon appeared, of a
-misfortune which had befallen
-our friend McGill.</p>
-
-<p>It seemed that in attempting
-to take his short cut
-“across-lots,” the Scotsman
-had struck a cattle trail, which
-led to a watering-trough set
-beside a newly-dug well, the
-existence of which he knew
-nothing of.</p>
-
-<p>By a curious accident, he
-walked straight into this well and
-plunged into eight feet of water.</p>
-
-<p>It happened that Smith was at that moment
-bringing some young cattle into his walled
-enclosure, and, hearing the muffled cries of
-McGill in the well, believed they proceeded from
-a cow in difficulties.</p>
-
-<p>Lantern in hand, he made his way to the well
-and called out. Judge of his surprise when he
-heard a voice, as from the tomb, growl:&mdash;</p>
-
-<p>“I’ve lost my bloomin’ pipe!”</p>
-
-<p>Looking into the well, he discovered McGill
-clinging to the sides as best he could with fingers
-and nails. It was but a moment’s work to
-throw him a line and bring him out, as sorry
-and dejected-looking a scarecrow as one could
-imagine. Strange to relate, it was all that Jim
-could do to keep McGill from going back into
-the well for his cherished briar, the loss of which
-seemed to worry him greatly.</p>
-
-<p>We found the Scotsman in a very bad temper,
-complaining bitterly of the loss of his pipe,
-which he told us he was smoking at the time
-of his misfortune.</p>
-
-<p>We received a hearty welcome from Jim
-and his wife. The latter was busy soothing
-their ten-months-old baby to sleep. There
-they lived, in that little one-room house, eating,
-sleeping, and cooking in the same apartment.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a href="images/i076.jpg">
-<img src="images/i076.jpg"
-alt="" /></a>
-<p class="caption">“SHOT-GUN JIM.”<br />
-<i>From a Photograph.</i></p>
-</div>
-
-<p>I began to speculate as to where we tired
-travellers would find a place to
-lay our heads. The house was
-a solid adobe, without windows.
-In the doorway hung a frame,
-on which was fastened a strip
-of canvas in lieu of a door.</p>
-
-<p>A hearty meal was prepared
-by Mrs. Smith, after which we
-were invited to go out and
-bring in our beds.</p>
-
-<p>On our return we found
-that Mrs. Smith and the babe
-were already in the huge bed
-in the corner. Jim was preparing
-to follow, and we were
-invited to spread our blankets
-on the floor, which, like the
-Bonita store, was mother earth.</p>
-
-<p>Our sleep was far more restful
-than on the previous night.
-At an early hour we were
-awakened by Smith, who
-seemed to be worried about
-something. I followed him to
-the door of the house and discovered
-that he was holding a
-whispered conversation with a
-stranger, a young fellow of
-about eighteen years. As soon
-as I approached they stopped
-speaking and I was introduced
-to the young man, whose name was given as
-“Hank.”</p>
-
-<p>Suddenly Smith spoke:&mdash;</p>
-
-<p>“We might as well tell ’em about it, Hank,”
-he said. “They’ve got to know it sooner or
-later. Tain’t safe to get out of this place now.
-Besides, your horse is used up.”</p>
-
-<p>I glanced in the direction indicated, and saw
-a horse covered in lather, with drooping head and
-general dejected appearance. I knew he must
-have had fearful riding to be in this condition.</p>
-
-<p>“Well, you tell ’em, Jim,” replied Hank.
-“I reckon we’re here, all of us, to stay awhile.”</p>
-
-<p>“I can’t afford to remain, Mr. Smith,” I said,
-thinking that the wrecked wagon might be the
-reason for the conversation. “If the outfit will
-hold together I think we had better go on as
-soon as possible.”
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_390">390</span></p>
-
-<p>Smith looked at me with pitying eyes.</p>
-
-<p>“You may never leave this place at all,” he
-returned, gravely. “This young man is the
-only survivor of a massacre, about ten miles
-from here. ‘Apache Kid’ and his band are,
-perhaps, at this very moment close to our gates.”</p>
-
-<p>Instinctively I glanced at the gates, and
-noticed for the first time that heavy timbers
-were propped against them.</p>
-
-<p>“Not only that, but McGill has disappeared,”
-continued Smith. “I think he may have gone in
-search of his pipe. We dare not risk going
-outside the enclosure, and he must get back as
-best he can.”</p>
-
-<p>Just then the others of our party and
-Mrs. Smith, with the babe in her arms, joined
-us, having begun to realize that something was
-amiss.</p>
-
-<p>Then Jim began to organize his forces. First
-he took an inventory of the available arms and
-ammunition, calling on our party to exhibit such
-weapons as we had about us.</p>
-
-<p>Next Jim brought out a number of guns.
-There were three excellent repeating rifles, with
-several hundred rounds of ammunition, and an
-old shot-gun, which proved of no value. Next
-came Jim’s own pet&mdash;a beautiful double-barrelled
-shot-gun. With these were several
-boxes of ammunition. Last came a motley
-array of “six-shooters,” a part of which were
-serviceable and for which there was a limited
-amount of ammunition. Two hand-axes and a
-small affair for chopping firewood were counted
-as weapons for close quarters.</p>
-
-<p>The whole lot was delivered into the care of
-Mrs. Smith, who was instructed to load the guns
-and arrange the ammunition conveniently on a
-table brought from the house.</p>
-
-<p>At odd moments the good woman was
-assembling quantities of food, so that, in case
-of an attack, prolonged or otherwise, we might
-have her services at the ammunition.</p>
-
-<p>Meanwhile Hank had been sent to the top of
-the house, which had a low, flat roof, where he
-was keeping close watch with a pair of field-glasses.
-He called to Jim that he believed he
-had discovered McGill in the topmost branches
-of a tree, a long distance up the canyon. It
-appeared that he was making signals, for we
-soon discovered that he occasionally waved a
-white handkerchief, and he appeared to be trying
-to draw our attention to something to the
-south.</p>
-
-<p>Presently Hank reported that McGill was
-climbing down the tree, and in a moment he
-was running down the road towards the house
-as fast as his long legs would carry him. Jim
-prepared to open one of the gates.</p>
-
-<p>Just then a shot rang out, followed by others.
-We could hear McGill coming full tilt. Jim
-opened the gate a little way and reported that
-a band of Indians were in close pursuit of the
-Scotsman.</p>
-
-<p>A moment later, breathless and exhausted,
-McGill flung himself through the open gate,
-which was speedily secured behind him.</p>
-
-<p>As quickly as possible Jim ran a rough wagon
-out of a shed and placed it alongside of the
-wall. It was evident now why this latter had
-been built high and strong; the reason for
-placing the wagon beside it, however, was not
-yet evident to us.</p>
-
-<p>Soon we heard the rush of a score of Indian
-horses, the whoops and yells of their savage
-riders, and the crack of their rifles.</p>
-
-<p>Their shots did no damage, however, but were
-sufficiently accurate to cause Hank to dodge
-behind the stone chimney, whence he dropped
-over the edge to the ground.</p>
-
-<p>There was a savage onslaught upon the
-immense heavy gates, but they held firm, being
-well braced by the timbers. So far not a
-sound had escaped us, and it was evident that
-the Indians were chagrined that they had not
-made a greater impression.</p>
-
-<p>For a few moments we could hear them in
-consultation before the gates, and presently a
-voice called out in broken English.</p>
-
-<p>To this no reply was made, nor was any
-evidence of life vouchsafed from our side.</p>
-
-<p>“Now, boys,” whispered Jim, “get ready.
-They’re going to show their heads in a minute&mdash;just
-over there, near the wagon. That is the
-easiest place for them to look over, and I have
-tried to make it look more inviting. So look
-alive and each pick his game. Don’t miss, or
-there’ll be trouble.”</p>
-
-<p>Next moment five ugly Apache heads bobbed
-up over the wall simultaneously. They were
-evidently so sure that the place was unprotected
-that four of them, in their enthusiasm, clambered
-half-way on top of the wall before they became
-aware of the reception that had been planned
-for them.</p>
-
-<p>The volley that followed their appearance was
-almost like one shot, and the four most daring
-red-skins received the bullets intended for them.
-Two were killed instantly, and partly hung over
-the wall as they doubled up; two others, mortally
-wounded, slid off the wall and were dragged
-away by their companions. The less venturesome
-got away with a whole skin.</p>
-
-<p>With our volley pandemonium seemed to
-break loose; the red-skins let out a yell that
-fairly chilled us to the bone. Jim called us to
-seek shelter at the rear of the house.</p>
-
-<p>We were none too soon, for a terrific fire was
-poured into the enclosure by the Indians, who
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_391">391</span>
-were taking haphazard shots towards us, without
-putting their heads into jeopardy.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a href="images/i078.jpg">
-<img src="images/i078.jpg"
-alt="" /></a>
-<p class="caption">“THE VOLLEY FOLLOWING THEIR APPEARANCE WAS ALMOST LIKE ONE SHOT.”</p>
-</div>
-
-<p>Presently we discovered that one lot of the
-savages were trying to burrow under the gates,
-and were indeed making some headway. Jim
-seemed to be everywhere at once, using his
-shot-gun as his sole means of defence. The
-moment a hand was seen in the growing excavation
-under the gate he let drive with his
-shot-gun, and another Indian was out of
-commission.</p>
-
-<p>I remember I kept a sort of mental tally of
-the fallen. Hank had told me that there were
-about twenty-three in the band, so I calculated:
-“Four dead on the first attack on the wall;
-one shot through the hand, under the gate.
-Balance to their credit&mdash;eighteen.”</p>
-
-<p>Just then we received an unexpected shock.
-We saw a curl of smoke rising above the gates;
-the savages were piling brush against them, to
-which they had already set fire. This was a
-serious matter, which even Jim had not calculated
-upon. He ordered us to lie low while he
-took a look round.</p>
-
-<p>I was so interested to know what he would
-do that I could not resist the temptation to put
-my head around the corner of the house, and
-this is what I saw.</p>
-
-<p>Jim crept on hands and knees towards the
-wagon which we had placed against the wall.
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_392">392</span>
-In a moment he had reached it, shot-gun in
-hand, and silently and slowly raised himself into
-it, gradually straightening out with his head and
-arms just above the wall. Then, quick as a
-flash, he took aim. There was a crash&mdash;or
-rather a double crash, for he had fired both
-barrels&mdash;an awful yell from the Indians, and he
-was speeding back to safety.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a href="images/i079.jpg">
-<img src="images/i079.jpg"
-alt="" /></a>
-<p class="caption">“I FELT MYSELF BEING DRAGGED OVER.”</p>
-</div>
-
-<p>One savage, braver than the rest, took a quick
-shot at him. The bullet did no harm to Jim,
-but came near being fatal to me, for I had been
-so intent on watching him that I now found
-that I had unconsciously stepped into the open.</p>
-
-<p>Instead of bolting for shelter, I had but one
-thing in mind&mdash;to check up the account and
-see how many “good” Indians there were and
-how many bad ones.</p>
-
-<p>Consequently, in a moment&mdash;foolhardy as it
-may seem&mdash;I was on the wagon, peering over
-the wall, taking account of the dead and
-wounded at the gates.</p>
-
-<p>Although Jim’s shot-gun had done fearful
-execution, there were but two who appeared to
-be actually dead.</p>
-
-<p>Just then something struck me in the face, a
-hand grasped me from over the wall, and I felt
-myself being dragged over, into the arms of the
-“Apache Kid” himself! Several other savages
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_393">393</span>
-were running to his assistance. All that I can
-recall is that I thought my last hour had come,
-and struck out blindly with my fists, clinging, as
-best I could, to the wall with my legs.</p>
-
-<p>I am not an experienced boxer, but I had the
-advantage over my assailant, for I was uppermost.</p>
-
-<p>Things seemed to be going badly with me,
-however, for I felt my hold on the wall gradually
-weakening.</p>
-
-<p>Just at that instant I heard a rush behind me.
-I was so done up that I could only think of
-more Indians, but in reality it was Levy, Hank,
-and Jim coming to the rescue.</p>
-
-<p>I was grasped from behind and felt that I
-should be pulled to pieces. I let out with my
-fists with renewed vigour, and landed such a
-fierce tattoo on the face of my captor that he
-involuntarily sought to protect his face with his
-hands, whereupon Levy, Hank, Jim, and I fell
-into a confused heap over the side of the
-wagon.</p>
-
-<p>It was a few minutes before they restored me
-to my senses, and I found myself with clothing
-half torn off, covered with dust, and generally
-bruised.</p>
-
-<p>My first words were:&mdash;</p>
-
-<p>“Two killed, three wounded badly; net
-balance thirteen. That number is unlucky.
-We’ll win!”</p>
-
-<p>“What in the name of common sense are you
-talking about?” asked Bates, who was bending
-over me.</p>
-
-<p>“Well, there were twenty-three Indians when
-we started; we killed four at first shot, three at
-the second, and two at the third, besides
-wounding three beyond present help. That
-leaves thirteen, doesn’t it?”</p>
-
-<p>We were recalled to a sense of our peril by
-the sound of breaking timbers. The gates were
-being forced!</p>
-
-<p>Through the chinks we could see the Indians
-working industriously with a battering-ram,
-improvised from the trunk of a tree. At any
-moment the gates might fall, and we knew there
-would be little hope for us once the red-skins
-gained an entrance.</p>
-
-<p>Jim now sent his wife inside the house for
-better protection. The little babe had, up to this
-time, been peacefully sleeping on the bed, which
-must now be used to barricade the door of the
-house. Consequently, the little fellow was
-disturbed as his mother moved the huge affair
-against the opening, and he, too, added to the
-din of the engagement.</p>
-
-<p>“Now, gentlemen,” said Jim, “we’ve got to
-make a last stand. The gates will be down in
-a minute; they have been greatly weakened by
-the fire. Every one of you to the roof!”</p>
-
-<p>Up to the roof we climbed as a last resort.
-I think we all realized the gravity of the
-situation.</p>
-
-<p>We stretched ourselves flat, weapons in hand,
-and waited. It seemed ages. We could hear
-the cries of the infant mingled with the sobs of
-the distracted mother. Bates, who had an
-abominable voice, tried to sing a hymn. Smith
-told him to be quiet&mdash;the situation was trying
-enough without his music.</p>
-
-<p>Presently there came a crash&mdash;the gates were
-down. In rushed the red-skins, a fearless crowd.
-There were just thirteen; I counted them.</p>
-
-<p>“Now, gentlemen, let ’em have it,” called
-Jim, in a low tone.</p>
-
-<p>Well, we did let them have it; there was no
-mistake about that. There was a blaze from
-the rifles, Jim’s shot-gun, and the revolvers, and
-we all pumped lead as fast as we could.</p>
-
-<p>When the smoke cleared a little we looked
-below. There were eight red-skins as dead as
-ever they could be. Three more were crawling
-away on all fours, seriously wounded.</p>
-
-<p>This left two on my record unaccounted for.
-We soon spied them making off over the little
-hills towards Brick Dust Canyon as fast as their
-legs could carry them.</p>
-
-<p>One of them was “Apache Kid,” the leader.
-He got off with a whole skin, but I’ll wager that
-he had some marks about his face.</p>
-
-<p>When we got down from the roof we could
-no longer hear Mrs. Smith or the babe, and
-feared they had been killed by stray bullets.
-Repeated calls failed to bring response.</p>
-
-<p>When we forced an entrance we found her in
-a dead faint, lying on the bed beside the infant,
-who was chewing his fist and chuckling as if in
-great glee.</p>
-
-<p>Woman-like, Mrs. Smith deferred her swoon
-till all danger was past.</p>
-
-<p>To the delight of McGill, his miserable briar
-was recovered that day by Jim, who said he did
-not want the well spoiled, otherwise he would
-have left it there.</p>
-
-<p>“Shot-gun Jim”&mdash;for that is how he is always
-known now, on account of his fearful execution
-with his shot-gun, for it was he who really saved
-the day&mdash;has never been troubled by Apaches
-since. He still insists on living in that forsaken
-spot, forgetful of the terrible scenes of carnage
-and danger he has passed through, working at a
-copper mine which he discovered up beyond
-Brick Dust Canyon.
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_394">394</span></p>
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="A_Perilous_Mission" src="images/i081.jpg"
-alt="A Perilous Mission." />
-<h2><span class="hidden">A Perilous Mission.<br /></span>
-<span class="smcap medium">By S. F. Martin, late of the Royal Niger Company’s Service.</span></h2>
-</div>
-
-<blockquote>
-
-<p>The modestly-told story of a daring deed. At a time of great anxiety, when England and France were
-on the verge of conflict in Africa and the powerful Mohammedan native States were watching for an
-opportunity of throwing off the yoke of both countries, Mr. Martin was District Agent of the Royal Niger
-Company at Borgu. He was instructed to secure reliable information as to what was happening in the
-turbulent robber kingdom of Kontogora, and he obtained it by the hazardous expedient of disguising himself
-as a Haussa and, taking his life in his hands, penetrating right into the enemy’s capital. His adventures
-during this journey are set forth below, though the narrative contains barely a hint of the strain of
-the ordeal or the awful fate that would have befallen the author had his real identity been suspected.</p></blockquote>
-
-<div>
-<img class="drop-cap" src="images/t.jpg" alt="T" />
-</div>
-
-<p class="drop-cap"><span class="upper-case">Towards</span> the latter end of 1898,
-before the conquest of Nigeria, I
-was placed in charge of the interests
-of the Royal Niger Company,
-Chartered and Limited, in the
-Borgu district of the Niger Territories. My
-instructions, amongst other things, were to
-watch events, political and otherwise, and to
-report the same to head-quarters.</p>
-
-<p>It was a time of great stress and no little
-peril to our West African Empire, for not only
-were the various races of the Territories in a
-state of unrest and hostility to the white man’s
-domination, but at that period we were also at
-loggerheads with the French, whose troops were
-encroaching on our frontiers from all sides,
-necessitating a special field force being formed,
-under Colonel (later General Sir Frederick)
-Lugard, to deal with the situation. The native
-Mohammedan States, seeing this, thought to take
-advantage of the crisis to the detriment of both
-nations.</p>
-
-<p>The most turbulent of all these native States
-was Kontogora, a town lying to the eastward of
-the Niger River. At the time of which I write
-there were British troops at Jebba, Leabba,
-Boussa, Roffia, Gomba, Lafagon, and Illa, as
-well as smaller garrisons scattered about, all on
-the Niger. There was a strong force also at
-Zaria, a large town away to the east, some distance
-south of Kano. The French were prowling
-about in between.</p>
-
-<p>It being reported that Kontogora was preparing
-to take up arms, I determined to find out
-the facts of the case for myself, as, if this State
-seriously intended causing trouble and gained
-any successes against us, the whole Mohammedan
-Empire was sure to rise to a man, and it would
-be difficult for us to hold our own, to say
-nothing of expelling the French. My orders
-were to remain in Boussa, but, having weighed
-the pros and cons very carefully, and decided
-that it would be well within the spirit, if not
-exactly the letter, of my instructions to take the
-action I intended, I determined to find out in
-person how far this rumour was true and how
-great the danger really was to our Imperial
-interests. I had mastered the Haussa tongue,
-the prevailing language of those regions, and
-could hold my own easily with the Haussas
-themselves, my natural aptitude for picking up
-tongues standing me in good stead. Consequently,
-without informing anyone where I
-was going, beyond leaving word that I was off
-on a shooting trip, on the night of the 17th of
-November, 1898, I dyed myself from head to
-foot a deep brown, arrayed myself in very
-shabby Haussa clothes, and set off, with my
-guide, Mama, for Kontogora. I took the name
-of “Abdu Maidowda”&mdash;Abdu the dirty. All
-carriers in Haussaland take nicknames, given
-them by their masters or companions. It is
-seldom that a white man ever knows the real
-names of his servants.</p>
-
-<p>We tramped all that night, and next morning
-stopped at a small village in the midst of farmlands
-in the N’gaski Kingdom. The whole
-country hereabouts was bitterly hostile to the
-white man’s <i>r&eacute;gime</i>. The state of unrest
-was manifest everywhere; people went armed
-to their work in the fields, as raids from
-neighbouring towns seemed to be of frequent
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_395">395</span>
-occurrence. Although the various native kingdoms
-were quite at one with regard to their
-hatred of the white man, yet amongst themselves
-they were always warring and raiding for slaves&mdash;the
-big towns bullying the smaller villages.
-The main cause of this was the heavy slave
-tribute levied by the Sultan of Sokoto&mdash;the
-great head of the Moslem Church in the Sudan&mdash;on
-all his vassal States.</p>
-
-<p>Having rested for a few hours, we set out
-again about midday. It was fiercely hot as
-we trudged through the guinea-corn fields that
-stretched for miles all around us, and the heat,
-striking down from the fiery sun, that hung
-directly overhead, made me dizzy. I staggered
-along at times in a
-kind of hot, sweltering
-day-dream&mdash;seeing
-things that did
-not exist, and thinking
-the most absurd
-thoughts. Once I
-called a halt at a well
-of very dirty water,
-flung myself down on
-my hands and knees,
-and bathed my head
-and neck for several
-minutes, Mama looking
-on amused. The
-people in the fields
-were gathering in the
-corn in feverish haste,
-but every now and
-then they paused long
-enough to question
-us as to our destination
-and whence we
-came. We invariably
-told the same tale&mdash;we
-were travelling to
-Kontogora from
-Illorin.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a href="images/i082.jpg">
-<img src="images/i082.jpg"
-alt="" /></a>
-<p class="caption">THE AUTHOR, MR. S. F. MARTIN, IN HAUSSA DRESS.<br />
-<i>From a Photograph.</i></p>
-</div>
-
-<p>It must have been
-about 4 p.m., judging
-by the sun, when, on
-that second day out,
-we topped a rise of rocky ground and came face
-to face with the head of a caravan of some thirty
-people, with a large number of goats, coming
-from the westward. There were several women
-on donkeys, ten armed men on horseback, and
-the balance consisted of carriers. As we stood
-watching them the caravan halted and one of
-the horsemen came prancing up to us with a
-great flourishing of his spear. He asked us, very
-roughly, whence we came and whither we were
-bound. Mama answered that we were from
-Illorin, whither we had taken loads for a rich
-merchant from Kano, and were now bound for
-Kontogora, where we hoped to obtain work, as
-we understood that the Emir was preparing for
-war on the white man. He then asked our
-questioner if we might not join his caravan, and
-if he would let us carry a load each in return for
-our food. At this we were taken before the
-head of the party, who proved to be an enormously
-fat woman. With a wave of the hand
-she gave her consent, and we were forthwith
-enlisted in the line of coolies.</p>
-
-<p>We pushed on that afternoon to some farmhouses,
-where we halted for the night. The fat
-lady took up her abode in the headman’s hut,
-and we carriers wandered about to find quarters
-for ourselves. For
-the most part we slept
-in the open, beneath
-a great tree growing
-outside the entrance
-to the headman’s
-compound. Mama
-and I had no intention
-of losing sight
-of our companions,
-as we did not wish
-to let slip this excellent
-chance of getting
-in to Kontogora,
-which was also the
-destination of the
-caravan, without
-danger of possible
-discovery. The farm
-people were good
-enough to give us
-food and drink, and
-also supplied us with
-plenty of firewood.</p>
-
-<p>After sitting around
-the fire for a short
-time, we coolies one
-by one curled up on
-our mats (each
-carried a small grass
-mat) and, with our
-feet to the fire, slept
-the dreamless sleep of the utterly weary.</p>
-
-<p>Next morning I was awakened by Mama
-shaking me by the shoulder. My clothes were
-wet with dew, and I commenced to shiver with
-cold, cursing myself in my sleepy condition for
-being so foolish as to put myself in such a
-perilous predicament.</p>
-
-<p>As I arose and stretched myself I beheld
-silent forms passing to and fro, and signs that
-the world was awakening became increasingly
-evident. Then fires were lit and breakfast
-cooked; but not before we had washed our
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_396">396</span>
-eyes, mouth, and hands, uttering a few words
-from the Koran the while. After partaking of
-boiled guinea-corn and soup, we espied the
-fat lady preparing to mount her donkey, and,
-securing our loads, took our place in the column
-that began to form up. Soon we were once
-again trudging through the open country on our
-way to Kontogora.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a href="images/i083.jpg">
-<img src="images/i083.jpg"
-alt="" /></a>
-<p class="caption">“ONE OF THE HORSEMEN CAME PRANCING UP TO US WITH A GREAT FLOURISHING OF HIS SPEAR.”</p>
-</div>
-
-<p>All along the route I was struck with the
-apparent haste with which the people were
-gathering in the corn. Our companions told us
-that the Seriki (King) of Kontogora was preparing
-to wage war on the white man, and had
-ordered his people to get in all their corn at
-once.</p>
-
-<p>The day before we entered Kontogora we
-were overtaken by a raiding party, who were
-returning to that place with their spoil&mdash;about
-twenty young girls and women, as well as several
-little children&mdash;all tied together, each having one
-wrist made fast to the neck, across the chest.</p>
-
-<p>Their captors were Fulehs and Haussas, on
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_397">397</span>
-horseback, armed with swords and spears, and
-one or two with guns. Some of the poor captives
-looked terribly emaciated, and could hardly
-get along. I saw one woman get a slash of a
-hippo hide whip across the face, that sent her
-reeling to the ground, with a great gash on her
-forehead. The incident stopped the whole
-column for a few minutes, as the woman was
-fastened to her fellow-prisoners by the neck,
-and, when she fell, prevented them from advancing.
-The whip was then applied freely in all
-directions. The chief of the band ordered the
-wounded woman’s squirming comrades to pick
-her up and carry her, but they were unable to
-do so, being too utterly worn out, I could see.
-They were coated in dust from head to foot,
-and the perspiration trickling down their naked
-skins and mingling with the dust made the
-poor things appear a sorry sight. The band
-had, apparently, captured them at some far-distant
-spot, and must have brought them along
-at a great pace, judging by the rate they were
-going when they overtook us.</p>
-
-<p>Furious at their inability to pick the woman
-up, the ruffian in command raised his spear
-and plunged it three times into the body of the
-prostrate woman. He followed this up by
-actually trampling her under his horse’s feet,
-while I groaned in an agony of horror and
-impotent rage at the ghastly spectacle.</p>
-
-<p>The brute, having satisfied himself that his
-victim was dead, cut the grass rope that bound
-her to her fellows with a slash of his sword, and
-ordered the party to proceed. They left us at
-a quick walk&mdash;some of the poor captives even
-running in their terror&mdash;and were soon out of
-sight over a rise in the ground. Our party
-followed at a slower pace in dead silence, leaving
-the poor mangled thing by the roadside to
-provide a meal for the vultures and hyenas that
-would soon be on the scene. I for one, however,
-realized then that no wild beast of the desert
-could compare for utter brutality and lust for
-blood with the human satyrs who overran that
-land at the time of which I write. For miles
-around, between Kontogora and the Niger, and
-farther afield to the north, south, and east, the
-smoking ruins of raided villages told the ever-repeated
-tale of death and violence, robbery
-and rapine, and I knew full well what would
-happen to me should my disguise, by any
-mischance, be penetrated.</p>
-
-<p>About five miles outside Kontogora our
-caravan was stopped by some horsemen who
-came galloping towards us and drew up across
-our path. They had a long parley with our
-chiefs before allowing us to proceed, and only
-did so on payment of a toll. These men were
-scouts, and I found out later that the whole
-country for five miles around the city was
-effectually patrolled, no one being allowed to
-enter or leave without permission. When we
-finally arrived outside the walls of Kontogora it
-was night, and in the moonlight the scene was
-beautiful and striking. The high castellated
-ramparts, with watch-towers over the gates, looked
-strange and fantastic in the soft, mysterious light.</p>
-
-<p>As we approached the gate we mingled with
-the members of another caravan. Mama and I
-were at the tail of the line, about five or six
-from the end. We chose this position to minimize
-the possibility of trouble, although there
-really seemed little chance of that in such a
-deceptive light. Still, there was just the chance,
-as we soon found out when the head of the
-caravan reached the gate. Here it was abruptly
-ordered to halt, and the guards held quite a
-long palaver before it was allowed to proceed.
-At the same time a little incident occurred that
-made my blood run cold for a few minutes.
-There was a cry of “Abokai! Abokai! Kai!”
-(“Friends! Friends! Halloa, there!”) from
-the gate, and the whole column was soon calling
-“Aboki! Aboki!” (“Friend! Friend!”)&mdash;the
-Haussa manner of hailing anybody.
-They were shouting, it soon appeared, for
-myself and Mama, and we were speedily
-hustled forward by our companions. When
-we reached the gate our employer, the fat
-lady merchant who had engaged us, indicated
-us to the guards with a haughty wave of the
-hand. We could see a crowd of mounted and
-unmounted men in the darkness of the gateway,
-and one among these, who seemed gigantic in
-the moonlight as he rode forward on a horse
-equally gigantic, curveted up to us. Striking
-my turban from off my head with the tip of
-his spear, he loudly asked for our names. I
-answered that we were two poor travellers from
-Illorin, come to offer our services to the Emir.
-He asked us where our belongings were and the
-money that our master had paid us at Illorin.
-I told him that the white man had met us on
-the road and taken everything, as we were
-friends of Kontogora. At this the captain of
-the gate gave vent to some extremely sulphurous
-language. Then, with a slight movement of the
-reins, he caused his horse to rear up on his
-hind legs and, with pawing fore-feet, to burst
-furiously through the crowd of coolies round
-about us, trampling one or two badly. Finally,
-the caravan was allowed to move on under the
-gate into the town. As we entered, the <i>mallams</i>
-(priests) were calling to prayer, and the long-drawn
-cry, like an appeal for mercy, floated
-through the night, striking on the air with that
-strange, indefinable sense of mysticism that
-belongs to the East alone.
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_398">398</span></p>
-
-<p>We wound in and out, out and in, through
-the moonlit streets with their black shadows,
-their mud walls, and conical, thatch-roofed
-houses. Then we emerged into the market-place,
-near which our employer resided. Entering
-her compound, we put down our loads,
-and, seating ourselves, awaited our wages.
-Mama and I were the first to be paid. We were
-handed one string apiece of cowrie shells&mdash;equivalent
-to one shilling each, at that time
-and place. We haggled over this like true-born
-carriers for fully half an hour, and, as the fat
-lady’s head slave refused to budge, accepted
-what we got with a blessing&mdash;and promptly
-received another five hundred cowries for our
-good nature. The Haussa will often do this,
-for, as much as he fears a curse, by so much
-does he value a blessing. A great many rogues
-take advantage of this trait in the native character.</p>
-
-<p>Having been paid off, Mama and I left the
-compound rejoicing. Here we were, in the very
-heart of Kontogora&mdash;scatheless! We wandered
-into the market-place, where some people were
-still loitering, and decided to sleep in one of the
-stalls and begin our investigations in the morning.</p>
-
-<p>It was many hours before I got to sleep, as
-my feet ached fearfully and were badly torn and
-blistered. During the march I had alternately
-gone barefoot and in sandals to rest them, and
-at times I got badly knocked about when carrying
-the leathers in my hand. Several times
-during the night bands of young Haussas passed
-through the market-place, shouting and laughing,
-boasting what they were going to do to the
-Turawa (white man).</p>
-
-<p>Four batches of labourers passed through
-also, between the time we retired and dawn,
-dragging dead horses out of the town. Tom-toms
-were going all the night; at times the
-whole air quivered with the rhythmical sounds.
-The quaint tinkling of the Haussa guitar rose
-and fell at intervals, and from time to time the
-weird notes of the “ghoghie,” or native fiddle,
-could be heard from the compounds. A spirit
-of excitement and revel seemed to pervade the
-whole town.</p>
-
-<p>Next morning we loitered about until the
-market began to fill, when we bought some
-food. We then repaired to the Galadima’s
-residence, and enlisted in the army of labourers
-that were employed in repairing the walls of the
-town. Many of these labourers were slaves,
-sent by the various chiefs and big men; others
-belonged to the Emir himself. About four
-hundred of us were dispatched to the north
-wall. Here some made bricks out of the soft
-clay; others, including myself, stood on the
-wall and laid them, and yet others passed those
-already dried up to us on the wall.</p>
-
-<p>While working in this way I gathered a lot of
-information. Raiding parties had been out all
-the week, I learned, and spies and runners
-from Zaria brought in news every day concerning
-the movements of the white men in
-that city. Bands of armed men were continually
-bringing in slaves from the ruined
-villages in the surrounding country. It was
-said that N’gaski and Kontogora would join
-forces, attack the whites in Zaria, and drive
-them out. Dandugnsu and Ridjion, neighbouring
-towns, had promised their support in
-the campaign. I also learnt that orders had
-come in from the Sultan of Sokoto that the
-Emir was not to commence a war against the
-white man, but to remain on the defensive.
-The Emir of Kontogora had replied that he was
-quite prepared to meet all comers, from whatever
-direction&mdash;a pretty broad hint to Sokoto, I
-thought. One fellow laying bricks told Mama
-that the man who killed Lieutenant Thomson
-at Bida, in the late Niger Sudan campaign
-undertaken by the Chartered Company against
-the Fulehs of Bida and Illorin, was now in the
-town and was considered a very great hero.</p>
-
-<p>About midday an order came for some twenty
-men to repair to the Emir’s compound. I was
-chosen as one of the gang, together with Mama.
-So off we marched. When we arrived we found
-that a horse and a cow had died, and were to
-be dragged out of the town and thrown into the
-moat under the walls. Tying up the hind legs
-with grass rope, we hauled the carcasses through
-the streets and out by one of the gates and
-dumped them into the ditch. Having finished
-our unpleasant task, we trudged back to the
-north wall and recommenced laying bricks.</p>
-
-<p>One swaggering youngster had annoyed me
-very much all the morning. He was an overseer
-amongst the men, and apparently one
-of the wealthy young bloods of the town.
-Shortly after my return from removing the dead
-horse this youth strutted up to me and started
-cursing me roundly in Haussa, saying that I
-was more like a woman than a man and that
-my work was no good. Finally, raising his
-hand, he struck me in the mouth. Forgetting
-myself completely for the moment, I stepped up
-to the fellow, who promptly drew his sword.
-Without any trouble I disarmed him; then,
-catching him by the neck, I shook him like a
-rat and dropped him into the ditch on the far
-side of the wall.</p>
-
-<p>For a moment there was dead silence; next a
-chorus of applause and laughter broke out.
-But Mama plucked me by the sleeve. “Go,”
-he said, in a low tone; “I will meet you to-night,
-an hour after sundown, at the place we
-slept in last night.”
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_399">399</span></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a href="images/i086.jpg">
-<img src="images/i086.jpg"
-alt="" /></a>
-<p class="caption">“I SHOOK HIM LIKE A RAT AND DROPPED HIM INTO THE DITCH.”</p>
-</div>
-
-<p>Divining my danger, I slipped away and
-mingled with the crowd, nobody venturing to
-interfere. I passed down some side streets that
-zigzagged about confusingly, wandered in the
-outskirts of the town for an hour or more, and
-then made my way to the market-place, which
-I found swarming with people.</p>
-
-<p>Buying some boiled guinea-corn, I sat down
-outside a stall and munched my lunch. The
-woman who sold me the food was a garrulous old
-person, but perfectly good-natured. She asked
-me all about myself, and I told her that
-I had come from Zaria, where I had fled
-through fear of the white men. She informed
-me that I had nothing to fear from them;
-were it not for their guns they would be quite
-harmless. Then I asked her when it was that
-Kontogora intended setting out to drive the
-Turawa from Zaria. “Go round the blacksmiths’
-shops and inquire at the smithies,” was all the
-answer I could get. I thought the idea a good
-one, and, bidding my new friend “Good day,”
-I sauntered through the crowded market-place,
-stopping at various booths. In one of these
-some blacksmiths were hard at work, making
-arrow and spear heads from bits of iron and tin.
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_400">400</span>
-As I stood looking at them I gathered, from the
-conversation that was going on around, that some
-of the Emir’s sons were expected to arrive in
-Kontogora that day, and that they were bringing
-some of the white men’s guns with them that were
-taken at Hella, when Lieutenant Keating’s party
-was massacred. Here was a bit of news worth
-having! The conversation turning on matters
-that did not interest me, I strolled on until I
-arrived at the head blacksmith’s shop, near the
-Emir’s compound, where I watched the hammers
-pounding the red-hot metal. I could see that
-the whole town was busy making arms, which
-boded ill for the whites.</p>
-
-<p>Suddenly I heard a shout of “Gashi! Gashi!”
-(“There he is! There he is!”). Then there was
-a rush of feet, and a flash of swords in upraised
-arms. Evidently my pursuers had found me
-out. I backed into the blacksmith’s shop,
-followed by a yelling crowd, and caught a
-momentary glimpse of my tormentor of the
-morning. Then, without warning, something
-was thrown over my head, and I was dragged
-violently backwards, flung to the ground, and
-stunned by a succession of heavy blows.</p>
-
-<p>When I came to my senses I found myself
-being hauled unceremoniously to my feet, my
-arms bound firmly. In this ignominious state I
-was dragged amid curses and cuffs through the
-town, a yelling crowd of bloodthirsty ruffians
-surrounding me. They hauled me through a
-doorway into a compound surrounded with high
-walls, on into a big building, through many
-rooms and passages, and ultimately down some
-rough steps into a filthy, stinking dungeon,
-reeking of mould and damp. Here, with a
-violent push, I was flung headlong to the
-bottom, where I lay helpless in absolute
-darkness.</p>
-
-<p>The air was damp and chill, and the place
-was infested with all manner of loathsome
-crawling things; I could hear them tick-ticking
-and scuffling along the floor and walls. Shortly
-after my entry some filthy thing touched my
-fingers, and I shook it off with a yell. It was
-a dread place, and drove all hope of saving my
-life clean out of me.</p>
-
-<p>How long I lay there I do not know; it was
-long enough, at any rate, for a sharp attack
-of fever to seize me and run its course. It
-racked my bones; I tossed and turned on the
-slimy floor, groaning aloud in my discomfort.
-The hot fever-blood throbbed in my head;
-my eyes and face burned, and my body became
-parched and dry. I moaned for water&mdash;oh,
-for one drop of cool water! At one time I
-thought I saw the door open and Mama enter
-and loose my bonds, but it was only a vision
-of my disordered brain. Finally I sank into
-unconsciousness. I awoke&mdash;drenched in a profuse
-perspiration&mdash;with men’s voices sounding
-round about me. A figure was standing over me
-holding a lamp&mdash;an earthenware, ewer-shaped
-vessel with a cotton dip&mdash;which gave a wavering
-yellow radiance and cast grim dancing shadows
-on the walls. I could see that the door was ajar,
-and a pale light was stealing into the horrible
-place from outside. Roughly I was dragged
-to my feet. I staggered a bit, but soon steadied
-myself, and&mdash;pushed, cursed, and beaten&mdash;I
-accompanied my captors up the steps and out
-into the light of day again, or, rather, of evening.
-One glorious breath of the upper air repaid me
-for all that I had suffered in that black hole of
-Kontogora. I did not care now if they were
-leading me out to kill me; I was not going to
-die like a rat in that horrible pit.</p>
-
-<p>As we emerged from the compound we were
-joined by a chattering, mocking, hostile crowd
-of men, women, and children. Every now and
-then one of the latter would strike me with a
-stick, my guards making no effort to protect me.
-At last we entered the Emir’s compound and I
-was taken into his presence. He was seated on
-a dais covered with mats and a leopard skin,
-and was talking in a low monotone to some men
-lying round about him on the floor of the
-chamber.</p>
-
-<p>The young blood that I had flung over the
-wall, and who was the cause of all my troubles,
-stepped out and told the King what I had done,
-asking leave to kill me then and there. Next,
-to my astonishment, Mama stepped out of the
-crowd and told the Emir plainly that he and I
-had come all the way from Illorin to serve him,
-and had intended craving his permission that
-morning had not my tormentor interfered and
-sought a quarrel with me, in which he had got
-thrown over the wall for his pains. Subsequently,
-through treachery, continued my faithful
-guide, my enemy had had me taken and
-flung into prison without the Emir’s knowledge.</p>
-
-<p>The Emir, who seemed a decent sort of old
-man, listened patiently to his two petitioners.
-Then, advising my enemy to calm himself, he
-told one of his retainers to question me. I
-thanked Heaven that the simpleness of my disguise
-and my grip of the Haussa tongue precluded
-any very great possibility of detection.
-The Emir, before my questioner started, informed
-the assembled crowd that, were I proved
-to be a rebel and a traitor, he would hand me
-over to my enemy to do what he wished with.</p>
-
-<p>My inquisitor was a type of the grovelling
-bully. He tried to put one or two posers to
-me, but got more than he expected in return;
-and I actually got a smile out of the Emir,
-which elicited the loud and flattering applause
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_401">401</span>
-of the retainers, when I suggested that my questioner
-was behaving very like a traitor himself
-in trying to cast a slur on the character of one
-of the Emir’s most faithful subjects. I told that
-monarch that I had come all the way from
-Illorin to serve him, and this was the way I was
-being treated&mdash;dragged, beaten and bleeding,
-before him from a dungeon, and bound like a
-common slave. Suddenly the Emir asked me
-how many white men there were in Borgu; I
-told him about one hundred thousand, and more
-to come. He seemed greatly impressed, as well
-he might be. I then craved permission to enter
-his service, and he inquired if I could ride. I
-told him to try me. This he agreed to do. If
-I could ride and prove myself worthy of entering
-his service he said he would pardon my
-imprudence of yesterday and make me a
-member of his bodyguard.</p>
-
-<p>My bonds were cut, and as these fell from me
-the pain of the blood returning to my swollen,
-half-numbed hands was excruciating. I managed,
-however, to keep a brave face. We retired from
-the Emir’s presence and waited outside under a
-great shady tree, where, eventually, a fiercely-pawing
-stallion was brought up, and I was
-ordered to mount. This I did, the brute biting,
-kicking, and plunging all the time. I had to
-get into one of those horrible native saddles that
-box you up completely, fore and aft. Once
-mounted, I let the horse do as he pleased, and
-he led me a terrible dance, rearing and plunging
-about, dashing first to one side and then
-another. As he was in the midst of his attempts
-to buck me off, the Emir appeared and stood
-watching the tussle with interest. As a matter
-of fact, the horse had not much chance when
-once I was on his back, for I had had a great
-deal of experience of the Haussa beast, and
-knew his ways. He soon grew tired, and within
-half an hour was quite submissive. I used no
-stick, but just sat quietly in the saddle. To my
-surprise and delight the Emir told me that the
-horse was mine, and that I was to come to see
-him on the morrow, about noon. I thanked
-him gratefully and rode off, Mama walking by
-my stirrup.</p>
-
-<p>After a consultation we agreed that it would
-be dangerous to remain in the town any longer,
-as our enemies were bound to try to get the
-better of us, sooner or later. We therefore
-arranged that Mama should leave the town at
-once, and make for Boussa as best he could, on
-foot; I would leave that night. We then parted,
-and I was left alone in the midst of the enemy.</p>
-
-<p>At sundown I rode through the south gate,
-but was immediately stopped by the guard. I
-told them that I came by order of the Emir, but
-they demanded proof. This was distinctly
-awkward, for, of course, I had no proof to
-give. I therefore resolved upon a bold stroke.
-I requested the chief to ride with me, telling
-him I would give him in confidence all the
-proof he would require. Unsuspectingly he
-rode up alongside. Leaning over towards him,
-I suddenly gripped him by the throat with both
-hands, at the same time ramming my heels into
-my horse’s sides. The startled animal leapt
-forward, wrenching my opponent from the
-saddle with a jerk, and I swung him across my
-horse’s withers, where I held him&mdash;my right
-hand on his throat, my left gripping his left
-knee, bending him backwards like a bow. In
-this fashion we flew along the path by which
-two days before I had entered the robber city
-on foot.</p>
-
-<p>A howl of execration and a clatter of hoofs
-followed us, and a shower of arrows and spears
-fell harmlessly on either side of me. When we
-had gone about a quarter of a mile I slid my
-hapless prisoner off on to his head, intending to
-stun him. My horse, feeling the relief, went
-away at renewed speed, and I had no difficulty
-in outdistancing my pursuers, especially as they
-stopped to see to their unconscious chief. I
-met one party of traders coming into the town,
-but they stood aside to let me thunder past, not
-doubting that I was an emissary of the Emir
-on some urgent business. The moon was just
-rising as I topped a low ridge, and all the world
-was soon bathed in a soft and silvery veil of
-light. Kontogora was far behind in the plain,
-the thousand conical roofs away in the distance
-looking strangely unreal.</p>
-
-<p>As I drew near the five mile radius I began
-to wonder how I was going to get through the
-line of scouts. Capture now would mean death
-in some horrible form or other; at all costs I
-must not be taken alive. Suddenly I heard a
-shout far away on my right, and in the dim light
-saw a body of horsemen coming my way.
-Touching my mount with my heels I again gave
-him his head, and he flew like the wind, with
-ever-increasing speed. The pace was terrific
-and absolutely foolhardy in that light, although
-the road was fairly good. I expected every
-moment to be pitched head foremost to the
-ground, but the surefooted beast kept on without
-a stumble. The shouts and thunder of
-hoofs behind grew fainter and fainter, until at
-last, to my infinite relief, they entirely died
-away. Still, however, I kept on. Here and
-there, when the road passed through a village
-or beside a farm, frightened figures would slink
-away into the shadows and a startled cur would
-burst into a violent fit of barking, as I clattered
-by on my panting steed, now reeking and white
-with sweat.
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_402">402</span></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a href="images/i089a.jpg">
-<img src="images/i089a.jpg"
-alt="" /></a>
-<p class="caption">“IN THIS FASHION WE FLEW ALONG THE PATH.”</p>
-</div>
-
-<p>I rode fast all through the night, my horse
-showing splendid spirit and pluck, and at sunrise
-halted on the banks of a river. Leaving
-my hard-ridden beast to cool a little first, I then
-watered him and, cutting some guinea-corn
-stalks from a patch near by, gave him a good
-feed, munching some myself at the same time
-and quenching my thirst at the river. Then,
-after about two hours’ rest, I proceeded, but at
-a lesser speed.</p>
-
-<p>I rode all that day and well into the night,
-finally resting by the pool where I had cooled
-my heated brow on the way to Kontogora.
-After some hours’ halt I pushed on again,
-obtaining food at farmhouses on the way, and
-next evening, utterly weary, arrived at the Niger
-opposite Boussa. My journey was over; I was
-safe at last! Arriving at my quarters in the
-Niger Company’s compound, I flung myself
-down on my camp bed just as I was and slept
-for sixteen hours.</p>
-
-<p>The faithful Mama turned up four days later.
-He went to Yauri, a friendly State, coming down
-river by canoe. For his services I presented
-him with the Emir of Kontogora’s horse.</p>
-
-<p>During all the years that have gone by since
-my secret trip to Kontogora and my subsequent
-escape I have never regretted having run the
-double risk of disobeying orders on the one
-hand and risking my life on the other. I
-had been instructed to get news and I got
-it&mdash;not the idle tales of paid spies, but a record
-of sights seen and things heard with my own
-eyes and ears.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a href="images/i089b.jpg">
-<img src="images/i089b.jpg"
-alt="" /></a>
-</div>
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_403">403</span></p>
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-<h2 id="A_Voyage_on_an_Ice-Floe"><i>A Voyage on an Ice-Floe.</i><br />
-
-<span class="smcap medium">By Dr. Wilfred T. Grenfell</span>, C.M.G.</h2>
-
-<blockquote>
-
-<p>Dr. Grenfell may be described as the “Good Angel of Labrador,” having for years devoted himself to
-ministering to the hardy toilers who live in that grim land of snow, ice, and fog. In this enthralling
-story he describes how, while on an errand of mercy, he and his dog-team got adrift in the open
-sea on a tiny cake of ice; how he killed three of the dogs to provide himself with warm clothing; how
-he made a flagstaff out of their bones; and how he was finally rescued when hope was well-nigh dead.</p></blockquote>
-
-<div>
-<img class="drop-cap" src="images/i.jpg" alt="I" />
-</div>
-
-<p class="drop-cap"><span class="upper-case">It</span> was Easter Sunday, but still
-winter with us, and everything was
-covered with snow and ice. Immediately
-after morning service word
-came from our hospital to say that
-messengers with a large team of dogs had
-come from sixty miles to the southward to
-get a doctor for a very urgent case&mdash;that of a
-young man on whom we had operated about
-a fortnight before for an acute bone disease
-in the thigh.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a href="images/i090.jpg">
-<img src="images/i090.jpg"
-alt="" /></a>
-<p class="caption">THE AUTHOR, DR. WILFRED T. GRENFELL, C.M.G.<br />
-<i>From a Photo. by De Youngs, New York.</i></p>
-</div>
-
-<p>There was obviously no
-time to be lost, so, having
-packed up the necessary instruments,
-dressings, and
-drugs, and fitted out the sleigh
-with my best dogs, I left at
-once, the messengers following
-me with their own team.</p>
-
-<p>Late in April there is
-always a risk of getting wet
-through on the ice, so that I
-was prepared with a spare
-outfit, which included, besides
-a change of garments, snow-shoes,
-rifle, compass, an axe,
-and oilskin over clothes.</p>
-
-<p>My dogs, being a powerful
-team, would not be held back,
-and though I managed to
-wait twice for the other
-sleigh I had reached a
-village about twenty miles
-on the journey before nightfall,
-had fed the dogs, and
-was gathering one or two
-people for prayers, when they caught me up.</p>
-
-<p>During the night the wind shifted to the
-north-east. This brought in fog and rain,
-softened the snow, and made travelling very
-bad, besides sending a heavy sea into the bay.
-Our drive next morning would be somewhat
-over forty miles&mdash;the first ten miles across a
-wide arm of the sea, on salt-water ice.</p>
-
-<p>In order not to be separated too long from
-my friends, I sent them ahead two hours before
-me, appointing a rendezvous at a log shanty we
-had built in the woods for a half-way house.
-There is no one living along all that lengthy
-coast-line, and so, in case of accident, we keep
-dry clothes, food, and drugs at the hut.</p>
-
-<p>The first rain of the year was falling when I
-left, and I was obliged to keep on what we call
-the “ballicaters,” or ice barricades, much farther
-up the bay than I had expected. The sea of
-the night before had smashed up the ponderous
-covering of ice right to the land-wash, and great
-gaping chasms between the
-enormous blocks, which we
-call “pans,” made it impossible
-to get off. As soon as
-I topped the first hill outside
-the village I could see
-that half a mile out it was all
-clear water.</p>
-
-<p>An island which lies off
-about three miles in the bay
-had preserved a bridge of
-ice, however, and by crossing
-a few cracks I managed to
-reach this island. The arm
-of the bay beyond this point
-is only about four miles
-straight across. This would
-bring me to a rocky promontory
-and would save
-some miles on the round. As
-far as the eye could see the
-ice seemed good, though it
-was very rough. Obviously
-it had been smashed up by
-the sea, and packed in again
-by the strong wind from the
-north-east, but I judged it had frozen solid
-together again.</p>
-
-<p>I set off to cross this stretch, and all went
-well till I was about a quarter of a mile from the
-landing-point. Then the wind suddenly fell,
-and I noticed I was travelling over loose “sish”
-ice, almost of the consistency of porridge; by
-stabbing down, I could drive my whip-handle
-clean through it. This “sish” ice consists
-of the tiny fragments made by large pans
-pounding together on the heaving sea.
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_404">404</span></p>
-
-<p>So strongly did the breeze now come off-shore,
-and so quickly did the packed mass, relieved of
-the wind pressure, begin to scatter, that already
-I could not see one floe larger than ten feet
-square. I realized at once that retreat was
-absolutely impossible; the only thing to be done
-was to make a dash for it and try to reach the
-shore.</p>
-
-<p>There was not a moment to lose, so I tore
-off my oilskins, threw myself out on my hands
-and knees by the side of the <i>komatik</i> to give a
-larger base to hold, and shouted to the dogs to
-go ahead.</p>
-
-<p>Before we had gone twenty yards, the animals,
-divining their peril, hesitated for a moment, and
-the <i>komatik</i> instantly sank into the slush. It
-then became necessary for the dogs to pull, and
-they promptly began to sink in also. Earlier
-in the season the father of the very man I was
-going to operate on had been drowned by his
-dogs tangling their traces around him in the
-“slob.” This unpleasant fact now flashed into
-my mind, and I managed to loosen my sheath-knife,
-scramble forward, find the traces in the
-water, and cut them, meanwhile taking a turn
-with the leader’s trace around my wrist.</p>
-
-<p>There was a pan of ice some twenty-five
-yards away, about the size of a dining-table, and
-on to this the leader very shortly climbed.
-The other dogs, however, were hopelessly
-bogged in the slushy ice and water.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a href="images/i091.jpg">
-<img src="images/i091.jpg"
-alt="" /></a>
-<p class="caption">“ONE OF THE DOGS GOT ON TO MY SHOULDERS, PUSHING ME
-FARTHER DOWN IN THE ICE.”</p>
-</div>
-
-<p>Gradually I hauled myself along the leader’s
-line towards the pan, till he suddenly turned
-round and slipped out of his harness. It was
-impossible to make any progress through the
-“sish” ice by swimming, so I lay there helplessly,
-thinking it would soon be over, and
-wondering if anyone would ever know how the
-tragedy happened. Suddenly I saw the trace of
-another big dog, who had himself fallen through
-just before he reached the pan. Along this I
-hauled myself, using the animal as a bow anchor,
-but much bothered by the other dogs, one of
-which, in his struggle for life, got on to my
-shoulders, pushing me farther down in the ice.
-Presently, however, I passed my living anchor,
-and soon, with my dogs around me, I lay on the
-little piece of ice. I had to help the dogs on to
-it, though they were able to work their way to
-me through the lane of water that I had
-made.</p>
-
-<p>We were safe for the moment, yet it
-was obvious that we must be drowned
-before long if we remained on this
-little fragment, so, taking off my
-moccasins, coat, gloves, and cap, and
-everything that I could spare, I tied my knife
-and moccasins separately on to the backs of
-the dogs. My only hope of life seemed to be to
-get ashore at once. Had I been able to divine
-the long drift before me, I might have saved, in
-the same way as I saved my knife, a small bag
-of food. The moccasins, made of tanned sealskin,
-came right up to my thigh, and, as they
-were filled with water, I thought they accounted
-for my being able to make no progress.</p>
-
-<p>Taking the long traces from all the dogs but
-the two lightest, I gave them the full length of
-the lines, tied the near ends around my own
-wrists, and tried to make the animals go ahead.
-Nothing would induce them to move, however,
-and though I threw them off the pan two or
-three times, they always struggled back on to it.
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_405">405</span>
-Fortunately, I had with me a small black
-spaniel, a featherweight, with large furry paws,
-something like snow-shoes, who will retrieve for
-me. I threw a piece of ice for him, and he
-managed to get over the “slob” after it, on to
-another pan about twenty yards away. The
-other dogs followed him and after much painful
-struggling all of them got on but one.</p>
-
-<p>Taking all the run I could get on my little
-pan, I made a rush, slithering with the impetus
-along the surface till once more I sank through.
-After a tough fight I was able to haul myself
-by the long traces on to this new pan. I had
-taken care this time to tie the harnesses, to
-which I was holding, under the dogs’ bellies, so
-that they could not slip them off. But the pan
-I was now on was still not enough to bear us,
-and so this exhausting process had to be
-repeated immediately to avoid sinking with it.</p>
-
-<p>I now realized, much to my dismay, that
-though we had been working towards the land
-we had been losing ground all the time, for the
-off-shore wind had now driven us a hundred
-yards farther out. The widening gap was full
-of pounded ice, which rose to the surface as the
-pressure lessened. Through this no man could
-possibly make his way.</p>
-
-<p>I was now resting on a floe about ten feet by
-twenty, which, when I came to examine it, was
-not ice at all, but simply snow-covered “slob,”
-frozen into a mass, and which I feared would
-very soon break up in the general turmoil and
-the heavy sea, which was continually increasing
-as the ice drove offshore before the wind.</p>
-
-<p>At first we drifted in the direction of a rocky
-point on which a heavy surf was breaking, and I
-made up my mind, if there was clear water in
-the surf, to try to swim for the land. But
-suddenly we struck a rock, a large piece broke
-off the already small pan, and what was left
-swung around in the backwash and went right
-off to sea. I saw then that my pan was
-about a foot thick.</p>
-
-<p>There was nothing now for it but to hope for
-rescue. Alas! there was no possibility of
-being seen by human eyes. As I have already
-mentioned, no one lives round this big bay. It
-was just possible, however, that the people on
-the other <i>komatik</i>, knowing I was alone and had
-failed to keep my tryst, would, perhaps, come
-back to look for me. This, however, they
-did not do.</p>
-
-<p>Meanwhile the westerly wind&mdash;our coldest
-wind at this time of the year&mdash;was rising rapidly.
-It was very tantalizing, as I stood there with
-next to nothing on, the wind going through me,
-and every stitch soaked in ice-water, to see my
-<i>komatik</i> some fifty yards away. It was still
-above water, packed with food, hot tea in a
-Thermos bottle, dry clothing, matches, wood,
-and everything for making a fire to attract
-attention, if I should drive out far enough for
-someone to see me&mdash;and yet it was quite beyond
-my reach.</p>
-
-<p>It is easy to see a black object on the ice in
-the day-time, for its gorgeous whiteness shows
-off the least thing. But, alas! the tops of
-bushes and large pieces of kelp have so often
-deceived those looking out that the watcher
-hesitates a long time before he takes action.
-Moreover, within our memory no man has ever
-been thus adrift on the bay ice. The chances
-were one in a thousand that I would be seen at
-all, and, even if I were, I should probably be
-mistaken for a fragment of driftwood or kelp.</p>
-
-<p>To keep from freezing I took my long
-moccasins, strung out some line, split the legs,
-and made a kind of jacket, which preserved my
-back from the wind down as far as the waist.</p>
-
-<p>I had not drifted more than half a mile before
-I saw my poor <i>komatik</i> disappear through the
-ice, which was every minute loosening up into
-small pans. The loss of the sledge seemed
-like that of a friend, and one more tie with home
-and safety lost.</p>
-
-<p>By midday I had passed the island and was
-moving out into the ever-widening bay. It was
-scarcely safe to stir on the pan for fear of
-breaking it, and yet I saw I must have the skins
-of some of my dogs&mdash;of which there were eight
-on the pan&mdash;if I was to live the night out.
-There was now from three to five miles of ice
-between me and the north side of the bay, so I
-could plainly see there was no hope of being
-picked up that day, even if seen, for no boat
-could get out.</p>
-
-<p>Unwinding the sealskin traces from my waist,
-around which I had them coiled to keep the
-dogs from eating them, I made a slip-knot and
-passed it over the first dog’s head, tied it round
-my foot close to its neck, threw him on his back,
-and stabbed him to the heart. Poor beast! I
-loved him like a friend, but we could not all
-hope to live. In fact, at that time I had no
-hope that any of us would, but it seemed better
-to die fighting.</p>
-
-<p>In the same way I sacrificed two more large
-dogs, receiving a couple of bites in the process,
-though I fully expected that the pan would
-break up in the struggle. A short shrift seemed
-to me better than a long one, and I envied the
-dead dogs, whose troubles were over so quickly.
-Indeed, I began to debate in my mind whether,
-if once I passed into the open sea, it would not
-be better by far to use my faithful knife on myself
-than to die by inches. There seemed
-no horror whatever in the thought; I seemed
-fully to sympathize with the Japanese view of
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_406">406</span>
-<i>hara-kiri</i>. Working, however, saved me from
-dangerous philosophizing. By the time I had
-skinned the dogs and strung the skins together
-with some rope unravelled from the harnesses I
-was ten miles on my way and it was already
-getting dark.</p>
-
-<p>Away to the northward I could now see a
-single light in the little village where I had slept
-the night before. One could not help picturing
-them sitting down to tea, little thinking that
-there was anyone watching them, for I had told
-them not to expect me back for four days. I
-could also see the peaceful little school-house on
-the hill, where many times I had gathered the
-people for prayer.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a href="images/i093.jpg">
-<img src="images/i093.jpg"
-alt="" /></a>
-<p class="caption">THE AUTHOR’S DOG TEAM.<br />
-<i>From a Photograph.</i></p>
-</div>
-
-<p>I had now frayed out some rope into oakum
-and mixed it with some fat from the intestines
-of my dogs, with the idea of making a flare.
-But I discovered that my match-box, which was
-always chained to me, had leaked, and my
-precious matches were in pulp. Had I been
-able to make a light, it would have looked so
-unearthly out there on the ice that I felt sure
-they would have seen me. However, I kept the
-matches, hoping that I might be able to dry
-them if I lived through the night. While working
-at the dead dogs, about every five minutes I
-would stand up and wave my hands towards the
-land. I had no flag and I could not spare my
-shirt, for, wet as it was, it was better than
-nothing in that freezing wind, and, anyhow, it
-was nearly dark.</p>
-
-<p>Unfortunately, the coves in among the cliffs
-are so placed that only for a very narrow
-space can the people in any house see the sea.
-Indeed, most of them cannot see the sea at all,
-so that whether it was possible for anyone to see
-me I could not tell, even supposing it had been
-daylight.</p>
-
-<p>Not daring to take any snow from the surface
-of my pan to break the wind with, I piled up the
-carcasses of the dogs. Moreover, I could now
-sit down on the skin rug without finding myself
-in a pool of water, thawed out by my own heat.
-During these hours I had continually taken off
-all my things, wrung them out, swung them in
-the wind, and put on first one and then the other
-inside, hoping that what heat there was in my
-body would thus serve to dry them. In this I
-had been fairly successful.</p>
-
-<p>My feet were the most trouble, for they immediately
-got wet again on account of my thin
-moccasins being easily soaked through on the
-snow. I suddenly thought of the way in which
-the Lapps, who tend our reindeer, manage to
-dry socks. They carry grass with them, which
-they ravel up and put into the shoe. Into this
-they put their feet, and then pack the rest with
-more grass, tying up the top with a binder. The
-ropes of the harness for our dogs are carefully
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_407">407</span>
-“served” all over with two layers of flannel, in
-order to make them soft against the animal’s
-sides. So, as soon as I could sit down, I started
-with my trusty knife to rip up the flannel.
-Though my fingers were more or less frozen, I
-was able to ravel out the rope, put it into my
-shoes, and use my wet socks inside my knicker-bockers,
-where, though damp, they served to
-break the wind. Then, tying the narrow strips
-of flannel together, I bound up the tops of the
-moccasins, Lapp fashion, and carried the bandage
-on up over my knee, making a ragged
-though most excellent puttee.</p>
-
-<p>In order to run easily and fast with our dogs
-in the spring of the year, when the weather is
-usually warm, we wear very light clothing; thus
-we do not perspire at midday and freeze at
-night. It chanced that I had recently opened
-a box of football garments which I had not seen
-for twenty years. I had found my old Oxford
-University running “shorts,” and a pair of
-Richmond Football Club stockings of red,
-yellow, and black, exactly as I wore them twenty
-years ago. These, with a flannel shirt and
-sweater, were all I now had left. Coat, hat,
-gloves, oilskins&mdash;everything else&mdash;were gone, and
-I stood there in that odd costume exactly as I
-stood in the old days on a football field. These
-garments, being very light, dried all the quicker
-until afternoon; then nothing would dry any
-more, everything freezing stiff.</p>
-
-<p>My occupation till what seemed like midnight
-was unravelling rope, and with this I padded
-out my knickers inside and my shirt as well,
-though it was a clumsy job, for I could not see
-what I was doing. Now, getting my largest dog,
-as big as a wolf and weighing ninety-two pounds,
-I made him lie down in order that I could
-cuddle around him. I then piled the three
-skins so that I could lie on one edge, while the
-other came just over my shoulders and head.</p>
-
-<p>My own breath, collecting inside the newly-flayed
-skin, must have had a soporific effect, for
-I was soon fast asleep. One hand I had
-plunged down inside the curled-up dog, but the
-other hand, being gloveless, had frozen, and I
-suddenly woke, shivering enough, I thought, to
-break my pan. What I took to be the sun
-was just rising, but I soon found it was the
-moon, and then I knew it was about half past
-twelve. The dog was having an excellent time;
-he had not been cuddled up so warmly all the
-winter. He resented my moving with low
-growls, till he found it wasn’t another dog.</p>
-
-<p>The wind was steadily driving me now towards
-the open sea, where, short of a miracle, I could
-expect nothing but death.</p>
-
-<p>Still I had only this hope&mdash;that my pan would
-probably be opposite another village, called
-Goose Cove, at daylight, and might possibly be
-seen from there. I knew that the <i>komatiks</i>
-would be starting at daybreak over the hills for
-a parade of Orangemen about twenty miles away.
-I might, therefore, be seen as they climbed the
-hills, though the cove does not open seaward.
-So I lay down and went to sleep again.</p>
-
-<p>I woke some time later with a sudden thought
-in my mind that I must have a flag to signal
-with. So I set to work at once in the dark to
-disarticulate the legs of my dead dogs, which
-were now frozen stiff, and seemed to offer the
-only chance of forming a pole to carry a flag.</p>
-
-<p>Cold as it was, I determined to sacrifice my
-shirt for that purpose with the first streak of
-daylight. It took a long time in the dark to get
-the legs off, and when I had patiently marled
-them together with old harness rope they formed
-the heaviest and crookedest flag-post it has ever
-been my lot to see. Still it had the advantage
-of not being so cold to hold, because the skin on
-the paws made it unnecessary to hold the frozen
-meat with my bare hands.</p>
-
-<p>What had awakened me this time, I found,
-was that the pan had swung around and the
-shelter made by my dogs’ bodies was on the
-wrong side, for, though there was a very light air,
-the evaporation it caused from my wet clothes
-made quite a difference. I had had no food
-since six o’clock the morning before, when I had
-porridge and bread and butter. I had, however,
-a rubber band on instead of one of my garters,
-and I chewed that for twenty-four hours. It
-saved me from thirst and hunger, oddly enough.
-I did not drink from the ice of my pan,
-for it was salt-water snow and ice. Moreover,
-in the night the salt water had lapped up over
-the edges, for the pan was on a level with the
-sea. From time to time I heard the cracking
-and grinding of the newly formed “slob,” and it
-seemed that my little floe must inevitably soon
-go to pieces.</p>
-
-<p>At last the sun really did rise, and the time
-came for the sacrifice of my shirt. I stripped,
-and, much to my surprise and pleasure, did not
-find it was half so cold as I had anticipated.
-I now reformed my dog-skins, with the raw side
-out, so that they made a kind of coat, quite
-rivalling Joseph’s. But with the rising of the
-sun the frost came out of the joints of my dogs’
-legs, and the friction&mdash;caused, I suppose, by
-waving it&mdash;made my flag-pole almost tie itself
-in knots. Still, I could raise it three or four
-feet above my head, which seemed very
-important.</p>
-
-<p>Now, however, I found that, instead of having
-drifted as far as I had reckoned, I was only off
-some cliffs called Ireland Head, near which
-there is a little village looking seaward, whence
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_408">408</span>
-I should certainly have been seen had the time
-been summer. But as I had myself, earlier in
-the season, been night-bound at the place, I had
-learnt there was not a single soul living there
-in the winter. The people had all, as usual,
-migrated to their winter houses up the bay,
-where they get together for schooling and social
-purposes.</p>
-
-<p>It was impossible to wave so heavy a flag as
-mine all the time, and yet I dared not sit down,
-for that might be the exact moment someone
-would be in a position to see me from the hills.
-The only thing in my mind was how long I
-could stand up, and how long go on waving that
-pole at the cliffs. Once or twice I thought I
-saw men against their snowy faces, which I
-judged were about five or six miles from me.
-In reality, however, all the time I knew in my
-heart of hearts that the black specks were only
-trees. Once, also, I thought I saw a boat
-approaching. A glittering object kept appearing
-and disappearing on the water, but it was
-merely a small piece of ice sparkling in the sun
-as it rose on the surface.</p>
-
-<p>Physically I felt as well as ever I did in my
-life, and with the hope of a long sunny day I
-felt sure I was good to last another twenty-four
-hours if my ice-raft would only hold out. I
-determined to kill a big Eskimo dog I had at
-midday and drink his blood (only a few days
-before I had been reading an account of the
-sustaining properties of dogs’ blood in Dr.
-Nansen’s book) if I survived the battle with
-him.</p>
-
-<p>I could not help feeling, even then, my
-ludicrous position, and I thought if I ever got
-ashore again I would have to laugh at myself
-standing hour after hour waving my shirt at
-those lofty cliffs, which seemed to assume a
-kind of sardonic grin, so that I could almost
-imagine they were laughing at me. I thought
-of the good breakfast my colleagues were enjoying
-just at the back of those same cliffs, and of
-the snug fire and comfortable room which we
-call our study.</p>
-
-<p>I can honestly say that from first to last
-not a single sensation of fear entered my mind,
-even when struggling in the “slob” ice. It all
-seemed so natural; I had been through the ice
-half-a-dozen times before. Now I merely felt
-sleepy, and the idea was very strong in my mind
-that I should soon reach the solution of the
-mysteries that I had been preaching about for
-so many years.</p>
-
-<p>It was a perfect morning, a cobalt sky and
-an ultramarine sea, a golden sun, and an
-almost wasteful extravagance of crimson pouring
-over hills of purest snow, which caught
-and reflected its glories from every peak
-and crag. Between me and their feet lay
-miles of rough ice, bordered with the black
-“slob” formed during the night. Lastly,
-there was my poor little pan in the fore-ground,
-bobbing up and down on the edge
-of the open sea, stained with blood, and littered
-with carcasses and <i>d&eacute;bris</i>. It was smaller than
-last night; the edges, beating against the new
-ice around, had heaped themselves up in fragments
-that, owing to its diminutive size, it
-could ill spare. I also noticed that the new ice
-from the water melted under the dogs’ bodies
-had also been formed at the expense of its thickness.
-Five dogs and myself in a coloured football
-costume and a blood-smeared dog-skin cloak,
-with a grey flannel shirt on a pole of frozen dogs’
-legs, completed the picture.</p>
-
-<p>The sun was almost hot by now, and I was
-conscious of a surplus of heat in my skin cloak.
-I began to look longingly at one of my remaining
-dogs, for an appetite will rise even on an
-ice pan. The idea of eating made me think
-of fire, so once again I inspected my matches.
-Alas! the heads had entirely soaked off them
-all, except three or four blue-top wax matches
-which were in a paste. These I now laid out to
-dry, and I searched around on my snow pan to
-see if I could get a bit of transparent ice with
-which to make a burning-glass, for I was pretty
-sure that, with all the unravelled tow stuffed into
-my nether garments and the fat of the dead
-dogs, I could make smoke enough to be seen if
-I could only get a light.</p>
-
-<p>I had found a piece which it seemed might
-answer the purpose, and had gone back to wave
-my flag, which I did every two minutes, when
-suddenly, for the second time, I thought I saw
-the glitter of an oar. It did not seem possible,
-however, for it must be remembered that it was
-not water that lay between me and the land, but
-“slob” ice, which, a mile or two inshore of me,
-was very heavy. Even if people had seen me,
-I did not think they could get through, though I
-knew all of them would be trying. Moreover,
-there was no smoke rising on the land to give
-me hope that I had been seen. There had been
-no gun flashes in the night, and I felt sure that,
-had anyone seen me, there would have been a
-bonfire on every hill to encourage me to keep
-going. So I gave it up and went on with my
-work. But the next time I went back to my
-flag it seemed very distinct, and though it kept
-disappearing as we rose and fell on the surface,
-my readers can well imagine I kept my eyes in
-that direction. Through my dark spectacles
-having been lost, however, I was already partly
-snow-blind.</p>
-
-<p>I waved the flag as high as I could raise it in
-a direction to be broadside towards those places
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_409">409</span>
-where I thought people might have gone out
-around the ice after ducks, which is their main
-occupation a little later in the year. I hoped
-that they might then see my flag and come
-straight on for me. At last, beside the glitter of
-a white oar, I made out the black speck of a
-hull. I knew then if the pan held out for
-another hour that I should be all right.</p>
-
-<p>With that strange perversity of the human
-intellect, the first thing I thought of when I
-realized that a rescue
-boat was under way was
-what trophies I could
-carry with my luggage
-from the pan! I pictured
-the dog-bone flagstaff
-adorning my study&mdash;the
-dogs intervened,
-however, and ate it later
-on&mdash;and I thought of preserving
-my ragged puttees
-in my museum.</p>
-
-<p>I could see that my
-rescuers were frantically
-waving, and when they
-came within shouting
-distance I heard someone
-shout, “Don’t get
-excited; keep on the
-pan, where you are.” As
-a matter of fact, they
-were infinitely more
-excited than I. Already
-it seemed just as natural
-to me now to be saved
-as half an hour before
-it seemed inevitable that
-I should be lost. Had
-my rescuers only known,
-as I did, the sensations
-of a bath in the ice
-when you cannot dry
-yourself afterwards, they
-need not have expected
-me to throw myself into
-the water.</p>
-
-<p>At last the boat came
-up, crashing into my pan
-with such violence that
-I was glad enough to
-catch hold of the bow,
-being more or less
-acquainted by now with the frail constitution
-of my floe, and being well aware it was
-not adapted for collisions. Moreover, I felt for
-the pan, for it had been a good and faithful
-friend to me.</p>
-
-<p>A hearty handshake all round and a warm cup
-of tea&mdash;thoughtfully packed in a kettle&mdash;inside,
-and we hoisted in my remaining dogs and
-instantly started back, for even then a change of
-wind might have penned the boat with ice,
-which would have cost us dearly. Indeed, the
-men thought we could not return, and we
-started for an island, in which direction the way
-was all open.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a href="images/i096.jpg">
-<img src="images/i096.jpg"
-alt="" /></a>
-<p class="caption">“I COULD SEE THAT MY RESCUERS WERE FRANTICALLY WAVING.”</p>
-</div>
-
-<p>There were not only five Newfoundland
-fishermen at the oars, but five men with Newfoundland
-muscles in their backs and arms and
-five as brave hearts as ever beat in the bodies
-of human beings. So we presently changed our
-course and forced our way through to the shore.</p>
-
-<p>To my intense astonishment they told me
-that the night before four men had been out on
-a point of land, from which the bay is visible,
-cutting some dead harp seals out from a store.
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_410">410</span>
-The ice had been extraordinarily hard, and it
-had taken them till seven o’clock at night to cut
-out twenty-four seals. Just at the very moment
-before they left for home, my pan of ice had
-drifted out clear of the island called Hare Island,
-and one of them, with his keen fisherman’s eyes,
-had seen something unusual. They at once
-returned to their village, saying there was a man
-on a pan, but they had been discredited, for
-the people there thought it could only be
-the top of some tree.</p>
-
-<p>All the time I had been driving along I knew
-well that there was one man on the coast who
-had a good spy-glass, and that he had twelve
-children, among them some of the hardiest
-young men on the coast. Many times my
-thoughts had wandered to him, for his sons are
-everywhere, hunting seals and everything else.
-It was his sons, and another man with them, who
-saw me, and were now with him in the boat.
-The owner of the spy-glass told me he got up
-instantly in the middle of tea on hearing the news,
-and hurried over the cliff to the look-out with
-his glass. Immediately, dark as it was, he made
-out that there really
-was a man out on
-the ice. Indeed, he
-saw me wave my
-hands every now and
-again towards the
-shore. By a process
-of reasoning very
-easy on so unfrequented
-a shore, they
-immediately knew
-who it was, but tried
-to argue themselves
-out of their conviction.
-They went
-down at once to try
-and launch a boat,
-but found it absolutely
-impossible.
-Miles of ice lay between
-them and me,
-the heavy sea was
-hurling great blocks
-on the land-wash,
-and night was already
-falling, with the wind
-blowing hard on
-shore. These brave
-fellows, however, did
-not sit down idly.
-The whole village
-was aroused,
-messengers dispatched at once along the coast,
-and look-outs told off to all the favourable
-points, so that while I considered myself a
-laughing-stock, waving my flag at those irresponsive
-cliffs, there were really men’s eyes watching
-from them all the time.</p>
-
-<p>Every soul in the village was on the beach as
-we neared the shore, and everybody wanted to
-shake hands when I landed. Even with the
-grip that one after another gave me, some no
-longer trying to keep back the tears, I did not
-find out that my hands were frost-bitten&mdash;a fact
-I have not been slow to appreciate since. A
-weird sight I must have looked as I stepped
-ashore&mdash;tied up in rags stuffed out with oakum,
-wrapped in the blood-stained skins of dogs, with
-no hat, coat, or gloves, and only a short pair of
-knickers on! It must have seemed to some of
-them as if the Old Man of the Sea had landed.</p>
-
-<p>No time was wasted before a pot of tea was
-exactly where I wanted it to be, and some hot
-stew was locating itself where I had intended
-an hour before that the blood of one of my
-remaining dogs should have gone.</p>
-
-<p>Rigged out in the
-warm garments that
-fishermen wear, I
-started with a large
-team as hard as I
-could race for hospital,
-for I had learnt
-that the news had
-gone over that I was
-lost. It was soon
-painfully impressed
-upon me that I could
-not much enjoy the
-ride; I had to be
-hauled like a log up
-the hills, my feet
-being frost-bitten so
-that I could not
-walk. Had I guessed
-this before I might
-have avoided much
-trouble.</p>
-
-<p>We all love life,
-and I was glad to be
-back once more with
-a new lease of it
-before me. My colleague
-soon had me
-“fixed up,” and I
-was presently enjoying
-a really refreshing
-sleep.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a href="images/i097.jpg">
-<img src="images/i097.jpg"
-alt="" /></a>
-<p class="caption">THE AUTHOR AS HE APPEARED AFTER HIS TERRIBLE EXPERIENCE ON
-THE ICE FLOE, SHOWING THE FLAG-STAFF MADE OF DOGS’ BONES.<br />
-<i>From a Photograph.</i></p>
-</div>
-
-<p class="copy">(Copyright, 1908, by Fleming H. Revell Company.)
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_411">411</span></p>
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-<h2 id="THE_WIDE_WORLD_In_Other_Magazines">THE WIDE WORLD: In Other Magazines.</h2>
-
-<h3>UNIQUE POST-OFFICE IN NEBRASKA.</h3>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a href="images/i098a.jpg">
-<img src="images/i098a.jpg"
-alt="" /></a>
-<p class="caption"></p>
-</div>
-
-<p class="drop"><span class="upper-case">Some</span> years ago, a traveller recounting his experiences
-of the early days of the city of Nebraska,
-U.S.A., says that on arriving at the odd collection of
-shanties that then represented the beginnings of the city,
-he inquired for the post-office, and was referred to an
-old chap sitting on a log. Of this man he further
-inquired where he could find the post-office, as he
-expected a letter. The old chap removed his sombrero,
-and, fumbling inside it, produced the expected
-letter. Since then Nebraska has grown into considerable
-importance as the capital of the State of
-Nebraska.&mdash;“<span class="small">THE CAPTAIN.</span>”</p>
-
-<h3>CURIOUS FISHING SUPERSTITIONS.</h3>
-
-<p class="drop"><span class="upper-case">In</span> British Columbia the Indians ceremoniously
-go out to meet the first salmon, and in flattering
-voices try to win their favour by calling them all
-chiefs. Every spring in California the Karaks used
-to dance for salmon. Meanwhile one of their number
-secluded himself in the mountains and fasted for ten
-days. Upon his return he solemnly approached the
-river, took the first salmon of the catch, ate some of
-it, and with the remainder lighted a sacrificial fire.
-The same Indians laboriously climbed to the mountain-top
-after the poles for the spearing-booth, being
-convinced that if they were gathered where the salmon
-were watching no fish would be caught. In Japan,
-among the primitive race of the Ainos, even the
-women left at home are not allowed to talk, lest the
-fish may hear and disapprove, while the first fish is
-always brought in through a window instead of a
-door, so that other fish may not see.&mdash;“<span class="small">TIT-BITS.</span>”</p>
-
-<h3>FLEMISH FISHERWOMEN.</h3>
-
-<p class="drop"><span class="upper-case">On</span> the coasts of Holland, Belgium, and Northern
-France fisherwomen are a familiar sight, with
-their great hand-nets and quaint costumes. Many
-of the towns have distinctive costumes by which
-their women can be recognised anywhere. Those of
-Maria-Kirke, near Ostend, wear trousers and loose
-blouses, while their heads and shoulders are covered by
-shawls. They carry their nets into the sea, and scoop
-up vast quantities of shrimps and prawns, with an occasional
-crab or lobster and many small fish. They often wade
-out till the water is up to their necks, and they remain
-for hours at a time in water above their knees, rarely
-returning until their baskets are full.&mdash;“<span class="small">WOMAN’S LIFE.</span>”</p>
-
-<h3>CANADA FOR THE SPORTSMAN.</h3>
-
-<p class="drop"><span class="upper-case">Canada</span> is an ideal country for the sportsman. Notwithstanding
-its rapid commercial development, it
-still has thousands of miles of wild and unexplored land,
-where man has seldom or never trodden. Even in the
-Eastern provinces, within a very short distance of civilization,
-wild animals of many kinds&mdash;moose, caribou, elk,
-deer, and even bears&mdash;still abound. From the Atlantic
-coast to the Pacific slope, from the international boundary
-line north to the Arctic circle, Canada offers magnificent
-opportunities to the sportsman, whatever his tastes may
-be; big and small game-shooting, fishing, camping,
-canoeing.&mdash;“<span class="small">FRY’S MAGAZINE.</span>”</p>
-
-<h3>THE GEESE OF NIEDER-M&Ouml;RLEN.</h3>
-
-<p class="drop"><span class="upper-case">In</span> the little Hessean village of Nieder-M&ouml;rlen, between
-Giessen and Frankfort, a strange scene may be
-witnessed every evening at half-past five. Some two
-thousand geese, which have spent the day on the river’s
-bank below the village, at a given signal from their
-leaders make their way homewards with much pomp and
-circumstance and raucous noise. The strangest part of
-the proceeding is seen when they reach the village street
-and, without any guidance or driving, waddle each into
-its own yard for the night. Like so many squads they
-break off in their dozens from the main body, knowing
-instinctively their owners’ door, and with solemn gait
-enter in as though conscious of their own innate cleverness.&mdash;Mr.
-A.H. Ross, in “<span class="small">THE STRAND MAGAZINE</span>.”</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a href="images/i098b.jpg">
-<img src="images/i098b.jpg"
-alt="" /></a>
-<p class="caption">
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_412">412</span></p>
-</div>
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-<h2 id="Odds_and_Ends">Odds and Ends.<br />
-
-<span class="medium">A Wonderful Balanced Rock&mdash;What a Lightning Flash Did&mdash;The Sea Captain’s House, etc.</span></h2>
-
-<div>
-<img class="drop-cap" src="images/n.jpg" alt="N" />
-</div>
-
-<p class="drop-cap"><span class="upper-case">Near</span> Dome Rock, Colorado, thirty-two
-miles up Platte Canyon from
-Denver, is situated one of the most
-wonderful balanced rocks in the
-world. This rock, as will be seen
-from the illustration, is poised with very little
-of its surface touching the ground. The most
-peculiar feature about the boulder is the
-fact that it does not rest on a flat surface of
-soft earth, but is perched out on an incline with
-a very steep angle. The slope on which it
-stands, moreover, is of smooth, solid rock, too
-slippery for anyone to walk up, and how the
-boulder maintains its position is a mystery.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a href="images/i099.jpg">
-<img src="images/i099.jpg"
-alt="" /></a>
-<p class="caption">A WONDERFUL BALANCED ROCK&mdash;IT IS PERCHED ON A STEEP SLOPE OF SMOOTH, SLIPPERY ROCK, AND HOW IT MAINTAINS
-ITS POSITION IS A MYSTERY.<br />
-<i>From a Photo. by J. R. Bauer.</i></p>
-</div>
-
-<p>Church bells and church plate, as related in a
-recent <span class="smcap">Wide World</span> article, are not the only
-kinds of buried treasure of which there are
-traditions in Worcestershire. Mr. J.W. Willis
-Bund, in his “Civil War in Worcestershire,”
-says: “There is hardly a family who possessed
-a landed estate at the time of the Civil War
-that has not some legend of concealed treasure.
-For instance, the Berkeleys, of Spetchley, say
-their butler, to save the family plate, hid it
-under one of the elms in the avenue. The
-butler was wounded, and tried with his last
-breath to confide his secret to a member of
-the family, but could get no further than
-’plate,’ ‘elm,’ ‘avenue,’ and died; so that
-the plate remains hidden to this day.” The
-occasion upon which the Berkeley plate was
-hidden was the sack and burning of their
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_413">413</span>
-family mansion at Spetchley, upon the eve
-of the Battle of Worcester, by the Scots troops
-who accompanied Charles II. from the North.
-Sir Robert Berkeley was a devoted Royalist and
-had suffered much for
-the King, and members
-of his family were serving
-in the Royal army; but
-the Scots, who had fought
-upon both sides, were
-not careful to distinguish
-between friend and foe.
-The only portion of
-Spetchley which escaped
-the flames was the
-stabling. Here Cromwell
-made his head-quarters,
-and after the war Judge
-Berkeley converted the
-building into a house
-and lived there for many
-years. The elm avenue
-in Spetchley Park,
-where the plate was
-buried, still exists, and
-is one of the finest in
-Worcestershire. For the
-photograph given above
-we are indebted to
-the courtesy of Mr. T.
-Duckworth, of the
-Worcester Victoria Institute.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a href="images/i100a.jpg">
-<img src="images/i100a.jpg"
-alt="" /></a>
-<p class="caption">THE ELM AVENUE IN SPETCHLEY PARK, WORCESTERSHIRE&mdash;A FAITHFUL BUTLER, AT THE TIME OF THE
-CIVIL WAR, BURIED THE FAMILY PLATE UNDER ONE OF THE TREES TO SAVE IT FROM THE ENEMY, BUT
-DIED BEFORE HE COULD REVEAL THE SECRET OF THE HIDING-PLACE.<br />
-<i>From a Photograph.</i></p>
-</div>
-
-<p>The curious little
-building seen in the
-next photograph
-stands at the end of
-a private walk on the
-shores of the River
-Orwell, in Suffolk. It
-is known as the “Cat
-House,” for the
-reason that, in the
-“good old times,” a
-white cat used to be
-exhibited at a window
-visible from the river
-as a signal to smugglers,
-who flourished
-in the locality. When
-the animal was shown,
-the “Free-Traders,”
-as the contrabandists
-were euphemistically
-called, knew that the
-coast was clear, and
-promptly sailed up
-and landed their
-cargo, secure from
-the attentions of the “preventives.” Near
-“Cat House” is Downham Reach, which was
-the scene of some of Margaret Catchpole’s most
-exciting adventures.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a href="images/i100b.jpg">
-<img src="images/i100b.jpg"
-alt="" /></a>
-<p class="caption">THE “CAT HOUSE,” NEAR IPSWICH, SO CALLED BECAUSE A WHITE CAT WAS EXHIBITED AT THE
-WINDOW AS A SIGNAL TO SMUGGLERS.<br />
-<i>From a Photo. by Frith &amp; Co.</i>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_414">414</span></p>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a href="images/i101.jpg">
-<img src="images/i101.jpg"
-alt="" /></a>
-<p class="caption">THIS TERRIFIC OIL FIRE, STARTED BY A LIGHTNING FLASH, DID A HUNDRED AND FIFTY THOUSAND DOLLARS’ WORTH
-OF DAMAGE.<br />
-<i>From a Photograph.</i></p>
-</div>
-
-<p>The accompanying photograph depicts a
-terrific oil fire, which occurred on the night
-of June 23rd, 1908, at Warren, Pennsylvania.
-The conflagration started through a tank being
-struck by lightning, and in a very short time
-twenty-five oil-holders, large and small, together
-with the wax-house, were destroyed. The fire
-burned for nearly twenty-four hours, and its
-fierceness is almost impossible to conceive.
-The total loss incurred was something like one
-hundred and fifty thousand dollars.</p>
-
-<p>The extraordinary-looking dwelling seen in
-the next picture was built to exactly resemble
-a steamship’s bridge, with chart-room and other
-appurtenances all complete. This curious erection
-is situated at Algorta, near Bilbao, in the
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_415">415</span>
-North of Spain, and is called “Casa-Barco,”
-or “house-boat.” It was
-probably built by a retired sea-captain,
-who felt like a fish out of
-water until he had provided for
-himself the same environment to
-which he had been used during his
-active career at sea. One can
-imagine the old gentleman taking
-his evening walk to and fro along
-the lofty bridge, scanning the surrounding
-country with a sailor’s
-eye, and half inclined now and
-then to ring for “more speed,” or
-to send an order down the tube to
-the steersman.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a href="images/i102a.jpg">
-<img src="images/i102a.jpg"
-alt="" /></a>
-<p class="caption">A HOUSE BUILT TO RESEMBLE A STEAMSHIP’S
-BRIDGE.<br />
-<i>From a Photograph.</i></p>
-</div>
-
-<p>The cat seen in the next photograph
-was the pet of the crew of
-the ill-fated whaler <i>Windward</i>,
-which was wrecked in Baffin’s Bay
-last season. After the disaster
-pussy had a long, cold voyage in
-the open boats in which the ship-wrecked
-men pulled&mdash;amidst ice-bergs,
-snow, and tossing seas&mdash;for
-over five hundred miles, encountering
-dangers and adventures galore,
-till after three weeks of fearful
-exposure and hardship they were
-picked up by the whaler <i>Morning</i>,
-in which the correspondent who
-sent us the picture was a passenger.
-“Pussy then made up for
-her sufferings by making her home
-in my bunk,” he writes. “During
-the cold nights of the Arctic autumn
-I found her a very good substitute for
-a hot-water bottle.”</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a href="images/i102b.jpg">
-<img src="images/i102b.jpg"
-alt="" /></a>
-<p class="caption">A CAT WHICH MADE A FIVE-HUNDRED-MILE VOYAGE IN AN OPEN BOAT IN THE
-ARCTIC OCEAN.<br />
-<i>From a Photograph.</i></p>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a href="images/i102c.jpg">
-<img src="images/i102c.jpg"
-alt="" /></a>
-<p class="caption">ANOTHER REMARKABLE ROCK&mdash;IT IS AN ALMOST PERFECT
-GLOBE, AND THOUGH IT PROBABLY WEIGHS
-TWENTY TONS FOUR STRONG MEN CAN SET IT SPINNING
-ON ITS BASE.<br />
-<i>From a Photograph.</i></p>
-</div>
-
-<p>On the foreshore of the Mata Beach,
-Mangapai, New Zealand, stands the
-remarkable rock shown above. It is an
-almost perfect sphere of hard blue
-rock, shot with white quartz, of an
-entirely different formation from any
-other known rocks in the district. The
-mystery is, of course, to know how
-it reached its present position on
-the soft sandstone of the beach.
-Popular opinion is that in distant ages
-it was shot from a volcano, since
-extinct. The rock, which probably
-weighs twenty tons, rests in a cup like
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_416">416</span>
-depression in the sandstone formation on which
-it stands, and is so nicely poised that four strong
-men, encircling it with their arms and all pushing
-one way, can set it spinning on its base.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<div class="tcell">
-<a href="images/i103a.jpg">
-<img src="images/i103a.jpg"
-alt="" /></a>
-<p class="caption">THE BULL-THROWER SEIZING THE ANIMAL BY THE TAIL.<br />
-<i>From a Photograph.</i></p>
-</div>
-
-<div class="tcell">
-<a href="images/i103b.jpg">
-<img src="images/i103b.jpg"
-alt="" /></a>
-<p class="caption">OVER! THE BULL GOES CRASHING TO EARTH AMID A
-CLOUD OF DUST.<br />
-<i>From a Photograph</i></p>
-</div>
-</div>
-
-<p>The two snapshots reproduced above illustrate
-striking phases of an exciting Mexican pastime&mdash;that
-of flooring bulls with the hand from horseback!
-The rider, galloping after the bull, seizes
-it by the tail and, passing his leg over the tail
-for the sake of leverage, pulls the poor beast
-round sideways until it trips and goes crashing to
-earth amidst a cloud of dust. Needless to say,
-the bull-thrower needs a strong hand and steady
-nerves, or he may find himself in trouble.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a href="images/i103c-lrg.jpg">
-<img src="images/i103c.jpg"
-alt="" /></a>
-<p class="caption">THE MAP-CONTENTS OF “THE WIDE WORLD MAGAZINE,” WHICH SHOWS AT A GLANCE THE LOCALITY OF EACH ARTICLE AND
-NARRATIVE OF ADVENTURE IN THIS NUMBER.</p>
-</div>
-
-<div class="transnote">
-<h3>Transcriber's Note:</h3>
-
-<p>Inconsistent spelling and hyphenation are as in the original.</p>
-</div>
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-<pre>
-
-
-
-
-
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