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diff --git a/5157-h/5157-h.htm b/5157-h/5157-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..a704d0d --- /dev/null +++ b/5157-h/5157-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,18524 @@ +<?xml version="1.0" encoding="iso-8859-1"?> + +<!DOCTYPE html + PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" + "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd" > + +<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" lang="en"> + <head> + <title> + How I Found Livingstone, by Sir Henry M. Stanley, G.c.b. + </title> + <style type="text/css" xml:space="preserve"> + + body { margin:5%; background:#faebd0; text-align:justify} + P { text-indent: 1em; margin-top: .25em; margin-bottom: .25em; } + H1,H2,H3,H4,H5,H6 { text-align: center; margin-left: 15%; margin-right: 15%; } + hr { width: 50%; text-align: center;} + .foot { margin-left: 20%; margin-right: 20%; text-align: justify; text-indent: -3em; font-size: 90%; } + blockquote {font-size: 97%; font-style: italic; margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%;} + .mynote {background-color: #DDE; color: #000; padding: .5em; margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 95%;} + .toc { margin-left: 10%; margin-bottom: .75em;} + .toc2 { margin-left: 20%;} + div.fig { display:block; margin:0 auto; text-align:center; } + div.middle { margin-left: 20%; margin-right: 20%; text-align: justify; } + .figleft {float: left; margin-left: 0%; margin-right: 1%;} + .figright {float: right; margin-right: 0%; margin-left: 1%;} + .pagenum {display:inline; font-size: 70%; font-style:normal; + margin: 0; padding: 0; position: absolute; right: 1%; + text-align: right;} + pre { font-style: italic; font-size: 90%; margin-left: 10%;} + +</style> + </head> + <body> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + +The Project Gutenberg EBook of How I Found Livingstone, by Henry M. Stanley + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: How I Found Livingstone + +Author: Henry M. Stanley + +Release Date: February, 2004 [EBook #5157] +Last Updated: February 6, 2013 + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE *** + + + + +Produced by Geoffrey Cowling and David Widger + + + + + +</pre> + <div style="height: 8em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h1> + HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE + </h1> + <p> + <br /> + </p> + <h3> + Travels, Adventures and Discoveries in Central Africa including four + months residence with Dr. Livingstone + </h3> + <p> + <br /> + </p> + <h2> + By Sir Henry M. Stanley, G.C.B. + </h2> + <h4> + Abridged + </h4> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <big><b>CONTENTS</b></big> + </p> + <p> + <br /> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0001"> CHAPTER I.— INTRODUCTORY. MY INSTRUCTIONS + TO FIND AND RELIEVE LIVINGSTONE. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0002"> CHAPTER II. — ZANZIBAR. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0003"> CHAPTER III. — ORGANIZATION OF THE + EXPEDITION. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0004"> CHAPTER IV. — LIFE AT BAGAMOYO. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0005"> CHAPTER V. — THROUGH UKWERE, UKAMI, AND + UDOE TO USEGUHHA. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0006"> CHAPTER VI. — TO UGOGO. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0007"> CHAPTER VII. — MARENGA MKALI, UGOGO, AND + UYANZI, TO UNYANYEMBE. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0008"> CHAPTER VIII. — MY LIFE AND TROUBLES DURING + MY RESIDENCE IN UNYAS NYEMBE. I BECOME ENGAGED IN A WAR. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0009"> CHAPTER IX. — MY LIFE AND TROUBLES IN + UNYANYEMBE-(continued). </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0010"> CHAPTER X. — TO MRERA, UKONONGO. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0011"> CHAPTER XI. — THROUGH UKAWENDI, UVINZA, AND + UHHA, TO UJIJI. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0012"> CHAPTER XII. — INTERCOURSE WITH LIVINGSTONE + AT UJIJI </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0013"> CHAPTER XIII. — OUR CRUISE ON THE LAKE + TANGANIKA </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0014"> CHAPTER XIV. — OUR JOURNEY FROM UJIJI TO + UNYANYEMBE. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0015"> CHAPTER XV. — HOMEWARD BOUND.—LIVINGSTONE'S + LAST WORDS—THE FINAL FAREWELL </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0016"> CHAPTER XVI. — VALEDICTORY. </a> + </p> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <br /> <br /> <a name="link2HCH0001" id="link2HCH0001"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER I.— INTRODUCTORY. MY INSTRUCTIONS TO FIND AND RELIEVE + LIVINGSTONE. + </h2> + <p> + On the sixteenth day of October, in the year of our Lord one thousand + eight hundred and sixty-nine, I was in Madrid, fresh from the carnage at + Valencia. At 10 A.M. Jacopo, at No.— Calle de la Cruz, handed me a + telegram: It read, "Come to Paris on important business." The telegram was + from Mr. James Gordon Bennett, jun., the young manager of the 'New York + Herald.' + </p> + <p> + Down came my pictures from the walls of my apartments on the second floor; + into my trunks went my books and souvenirs, my clothes were hastily + collected, some half washed, some from the clothes-line half dry, and + after a couple of hours of hasty hard work my portmanteaus were strapped + up and labelled "Paris." + </p> + <p> + At 3 P.M. I was on my way, and being obliged to stop at Bayonne a few + hours, did not arrive at Paris until the following night. I went straight + to the 'Grand Hotel,' and knocked at the door of Mr. Bennett's room. + </p> + <p> + "Come in," I heard a voice say. Entering, I found Mr. Bennett in bed. "Who + are you?" he asked. + </p> + <p> + "My name is Stanley," I answered. + </p> + <p> + "Ah, yes! sit down; I have important business on hand for you." + </p> + <p> + After throwing over his shoulders his robe-de-chambre Mr. Bennett asked, + "Where do you think Livingstone is?" + </p> + <p> + "I really do not know, sir." + </p> + <p> + "Do you think he is alive?" + </p> + <p> + "He may be, and he may not be," I answered. + </p> + <p> + "Well, I think he is alive, and that he can be found, and I am going to + send you to find him." + </p> + <p> + "What!" said I, "do you really think I can find Dr Livingstone? Do you + mean me to go to Central Africa?" + </p> + <p> + "Yes; I mean that you shall go, and find him wherever you may hear that he + is, and to get what news you can of him, and perhaps"—delivering + himself thoughtfully and deliberately—"the old man may be in want:—take + enough with you to help him should he require it. Of course you will act + according to your own plans, and do what you think best—BUT FIND + LIVINGSTONE!" + </p> + <p> + Said I, wondering at the cool order of sending one to Central Africa to + search for a man whom I, in common with almost all other men, believed to + be dead, "Have you considered seriously the great expense you are likely, + to incur on account of this little journey?" + </p> + <p> + "What will it cost?" he asked abruptly. + </p> + <p> + "Burton and Speke's journey to Central Africa cost between £3,000 and + £5,000, and I fear it cannot be done under £2,500." + </p> + <p> + "Well, I will tell you what you will do. Draw a thousand pounds now; and + when you have gone through that, draw another thousand, and when that is + spent, draw another thousand, and when you have finished that, draw + another thousand, and so on; but, FIND LIVINGSTONE." + </p> + <p> + Surprised but not confused at the order—for I knew that Mr. Bennett + when once he had made up his mind was not easily drawn aside from his + purpose—I yet thought, seeing it was such a gigantic scheme, that he + had not quite considered in his own mind the pros and cons of the case; I + said, "I have heard that should your father die you would sell the + 'Herald' and retire from business." + </p> + <p> + "Whoever told you that is wrong, for there is not, money enough in New + York city to buy the 'New York Herald.' My father has made it a great + paper, but I mean to make it greater. I mean that it shall be a newspaper + in the true sense of the word. I mean that it shall publish whatever news + will be interesting to the world at no matter what cost." + </p> + <p> + "After that," said I, "I have nothing more to say. Do you mean me to go + straight on to Africa to search for Dr. Livingstone?" + </p> + <p> + "No! I wish you to go to the inauguration of the Suez Canal first, and + then proceed up the Nile. I hear Baker is about starting for Upper Egypt. + Find out what you can about his expedition, and as you go up describe as + well as possible whatever is interesting for tourists; and then write up a + guide—a practical one—for Lower Egypt; tell us about whatever + is worth seeing and how to see it. + </p> + <p> + "Then you might as well go to Jerusalem; I hear Captain Warren is making + some interesting discoveries there. Then visit Constantinople, and find + out about that trouble between the Khedive and the Sultan. + </p> + <p> + "Then—let me see—you might as well visit the Crimea and those + old battle-grounds, Then go across the Caucasus to the Caspian Sea; I hear + there is a Russian expedition bound for Khiva. From thence you may get + through Persia to India; you could write an interesting letter from + Persepolis. + </p> + <p> + "Bagdad will be close on your way to India; suppose you go there, and + write up something about the Euphrates Valley Railway. Then, when you have + come to India, you can go after Livingstone. Probably you will hear by + that time that Livingstone is on his way to Zanzibar; but if not, go into + the interior and find him. If alive, get what news of his discoveries you + can; and if you find he is dead, bring all possible proofs of his being + dead. That is all. Good-night, and God be with you." + </p> + <p> + "Good-night, Sir," I said, "what it is in the power of human nature to do + I will do; and on such an errand as I go upon, God will be with me." + </p> + <p> + I lodged with young Edward King, who is making such a name in New England. + He was just the man who would have delighted to tell the journal he was + engaged upon what young Mr. Bennett was doing, and what errand I was bound + upon. + </p> + <p> + I should have liked to exchange opinions with him upon the probable + results of my journey, but I dared not do so. Though oppressed with the + great task before me, I had to appear as if only going to be present at + the Suez Canal. Young King followed me to the express train bound for + Marseilles, and at the station we parted: he to go and read the newspapers + at Bowles' Reading-room—I to Central Africa and—who knows? + </p> + <p> + There is no need to recapitulate what I did before going to Central + Africa. + </p> + <p> + I went up the Nile and saw Mr. Higginbotham, chief engineer in Baker's + Expedition, at Philae, and was the means of preventing a duel between him + and a mad young Frenchman, who wanted to fight Mr. Higginbotham with + pistols, because that gentleman resented the idea of being taken for an + Egyptian, through wearing a fez cap. I had a talk with Capt. Warren at + Jerusalem, and descended one of the pits with a sergeant of engineers to + see the marks of the Tyrian workmen on the foundation-stones of the Temple + of Solomon. I visited the mosques of Stamboul with the Minister Resident + of the United States, and the American Consul-General. I travelled over + the Crimean battle-grounds with Kinglake's glorious books for reference in + my hand. I dined with the widow of General Liprandi at Odessa. I saw the + Arabian traveller Palgrave at Trebizond, and Baron Nicolay, the Civil + Governor of the Caucasus, at Tiflis. I lived with the Russian Ambassador + while at Teheran, and wherever I went through Persia I received the most + hospitable welcome from the gentlemen of the Indo-European Telegraph + Company; and following the examples of many illustrious men, I wrote my + name upon one of the Persepolitan monuments. In the month of August, 1870, + I arrived in India. + </p> + <p> + On the 12th of October I sailed on the barque 'Polly' from Bombay to + Mauritius. As the 'Polly' was a slow sailer, the passage lasted + thirty-seven days. On board this barque was a William Lawrence Farquhar—hailing + from Leith, Scotland—in the capacity of first-mate. He was an + excellent navigator, and thinking he might be useful to me, I employed + him; his pay to begin from the date we should leave Zanzibar for Bagamoyo. + As there was no opportunity of getting, to Zanzibar direct, I took ship to + Seychelles. Three or four days after arriving at Mahe, one of the + Seychelles group, I was fortunate enough to get a passage for myself, + William Lawrence Farquhar, and an Arab boy from Jerusalem, who was to act + as interpreter—on board an American whaling vessel, bound for + Zanzibar; at which port we arrived on the 6th of January, 1871. + </p> + <p> + I have skimmed over my travels thus far, because these do not concern the + reader. They led over many lands, but this book is only a narrative of my + search after Livingstone, the great African traveller. It is an Icarian + flight of journalism, I confess; some even have called it Quixotic; but + this is a word I can now refute, as will be seen before the reader arrives + at the "Finis." + </p> + <p> + I have used the word "soldiers" in this book. The armed escort a traveller + engages to accompany him into East Africa is composed of free black men, + natives of Zanzibar, or freed slaves from the interior, who call + themselves "askari," an Indian name which, translated, means "soldiers." + They are armed and equipped like soldiers, though they engage themselves + also as servants; but it would be more pretentious in me to call them + servants, than to use the word "soldiers;" and as I have been more in the + habit of calling them soldiers than "my watuma"—servants—this + habit has proved too much to be overcome. I have therefore allowed the + word "soldiers" to appear, accompanied, however, with this apology. + </p> + <p> + But it must be remembered that I am writing a narrative of my own + adventures and travels, and that until I meet Livingstone, I presume the + greatest interest is attached to myself, my marches, my troubles, my + thoughts, and my impressions. Yet though I may sometimes write, "my + expedition," or "my caravan," it by no means follows that I arrogate to + myself this right. For it must be distinctly understood that it is the + "'New York Herald' Expedition," and that I am only charged with its + command by Mr. James Gordon Bennett, the proprietor of the 'New York + Herald,' as a salaried employ of that gentleman. + </p> + <p> + One thing more; I have adopted the narrative form of relating the story of + the search, on account of the greater interest it appears to possess over + the diary form, and I think that in this manner I avoid the great fault of + repetition for which some travellers have been severely criticised. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0002" id="link2HCH0002"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER II. — ZANZIBAR. + </h2> + <p> + On the morning of the 6th January, 1871, we were sailing through the + channel that separates the fruitful island of Zanzibar from Africa. The + high lands of the continent loomed like a lengthening shadow in the grey + of dawn. The island lay on our left, distant but a mile, coming out of its + shroud of foggy folds bit by bit as the day advanced, until it finally + rose clearly into view, as fair in appearance as the fairest of the gems + of creation. It appeared low, but not flat; there were gentle elevations + cropping hither and yon above the languid but graceful tops of the + cocoa-trees that lined the margin of the island, and there were + depressions visible at agreeable intervals, to indicate where a cool gloom + might be found by those who sought relief from a hot sun. With the + exception of the thin line of sand, over which the sap-green water rolled + itself with a constant murmur and moan, the island seemed buried under one + deep stratum of verdure. + </p> + <p> + The noble bosom of the strait bore several dhows speeding in and out of + the bay of Zanzibar with bellying sails. Towards the south, above the sea + line of the horizon, there appeared the naked masts of several large + ships, and to the east of these a dense mass of white, flat-topped houses. + This was Zanzibar, the capital of the island;—which soon resolved + itself into a pretty large and compact city, with all the characteristics + of Arab architecture. Above some of the largest houses lining the bay + front of the city streamed the blood-red banner of the Sultan, Seyd + Burghash, and the flags of the American, English, North German + Confederation, and French Consulates. In the harbor were thirteen large + ships, four Zanzibar men-of-war, one English man-of-war—the + 'Nymphe,' two American, one French, one Portuguese, two English, and two + German merchantmen, besides numerous dhows hailing from Johanna and + Mayotte of the Comoro Islands, dhows from Muscat and Cutch—traders + between India, the Persian Gulf, and Zanzibar. + </p> + <p> + It was with the spirit of true hospitality and courtesy that Capt. Francis + R. Webb, United States Consul, (formerly of the United States Navy), + received me. Had this gentleman not rendered me such needful service, I + must have condescended to take board and lodging at a house known as + "Charley's," called after the proprietor, a Frenchman, who has won + considerable local notoriety for harboring penniless itinerants, and + manifesting a kindly spirit always, though hidden under such a rugged + front; or I should have been obliged to pitch my double-clothed American + drill tent on the sandbeach of this tropical island, which was by no means + a desirable thing. + </p> + <p> + But Capt. Webb's opportune proposal to make his commodious and comfortable + house my own; to enjoy myself, with the request that I would call for + whatever I might require, obviated all unpleasant alternatives. + </p> + <p> + One day's life at Zanzibar made me thoroughly conscious of my ignorance + respecting African people and things in general. I imagined I had read + Burton and Speke through, fairly well, and that consequently I had + penetrated the meaning, the full importance and grandeur, of the work I + was about to be engaged upon. But my estimates, for instance, based upon + book information, were simply ridiculous, fanciful images of African + attractions were soon dissipated, anticipated pleasures vanished, and all + crude ideas began to resolve themselves into shape. + </p> + <p> + I strolled through the city. My general impressions are of crooked, narrow + lanes, white-washed houses, mortar-plastered streets, in the clean + quarter;—of seeing alcoves on each side, with deep recesses, with a + fore-ground of red-turbaned Banyans, and a back-ground of flimsy cottons, + prints, calicoes, domestics and what not; or of floors crowded with ivory + tusks; or of dark corners with a pile of unginned and loose cotton; or of + stores of crockery, nails, cheap Brummagem ware, tools, &c., in what I + call the Banyan quarter;—of streets smelling very strong—in + fact, exceedingly, malodorous, with steaming yellow and black bodies, and + woolly heads, sitting at the doors of miserable huts, chatting, laughing, + bargaining, scolding, with a compound smell of hides, tar, filth, and + vegetable refuse, in the negro quarter;—of streets lined with tall, + solid-looking houses, flat roofed, of great carved doors with large brass + knockers, with baabs sitting cross-legged watching the dark entrance to + their masters' houses; of a shallow sea-inlet, with some dhows, canoes, + boats, an odd steam-tub or two, leaning over on their sides in a sea of + mud which the tide has just left behind it; of a place called + "M'nazi-Moya," "One Cocoa-tree," whither Europeans wend on evenings with + most languid steps, to inhale the sweet air that glides over the sea, + while the day is dying and the red sun is sinking westward; of a few + graves of dead sailors, who paid the forfeit of their lives upon arrival + in this land; of a tall house wherein lives Dr. Tozer, "Missionary Bishop + of Central Africa," and his school of little Africans; and of many other + things, which got together into such a tangle, that I had to go to sleep, + lest I should never be able to separate the moving images, the Arab from + the African; the African from the Banyan; the Banyan from the Hindi; the + Hindi from the European, &c. + </p> + <p> + Zanzibar is the Bagdad, the Ispahan, the Stamboul, if you like, of East + Africa. It is the great mart which invites the ivory traders from the + African interior. To this market come the gum-copal, the hides, the + orchilla weed, the timber, and the black slaves from Africa. Bagdad had + great silk bazaars, Zanzibar has her ivory bazaars; Bagdad once traded in + jewels, Zanzibar trades in gum-copal; Stamboul imported Circassian and + Georgian slaves; Zanzibar imports black beauties from Uhiyow, Ugindo, + Ugogo, Unyamwezi and Galla. + </p> + <p> + The same mode of commerce obtains here as in all Mohammedan countries—nay, + the mode was in vogue long before Moses was born. The Arab never changes. + He brought the custom of his forefathers with him when he came to live on + this island. He is as much of an Arab here as at Muscat or Bagdad; + wherever he goes to live he carries with him his harem, his religion, his + long robe, his shirt, his slippers, and his dagger. If he penetrates + Africa, not all the ridicule of the negroes can make him change his modes + of life. Yet the land has not become Oriental; the Arab has not been able + to change the atmosphere. The land is semi-African in aspect; the city is + but semi-Arabian. + </p> + <p> + To a new-comer into Africa, the Muscat Arabs of Zanzibar are studies. + There is a certain empressement about them which we must admire. They are + mostly all travellers. There are but few of them who have not been in many + dangerous positions, as they penetrated Central Africa in search of the + precious ivory; and their various experiences have given their features a + certain unmistakable air of-self-reliance, or of self-sufficiency; there + is a calm, resolute, defiant, independent air about them, which wins + unconsciously one's respect. The stories that some of these men could + tell, I have often thought, would fill many a book of thrilling + adventures. + </p> + <p> + For the half-castes I have great contempt. They are neither black nor + white, neither good nor bad, neither to be admired nor hated. They are all + things, at all times; they are always fawning on the great Arabs, and + always cruel to those unfortunates brought under their yoke. If I saw a + miserable, half-starved negro, I was always sure to be told he belonged to + a half-caste. Cringing and hypocritical, cowardly and debased, treacherous + and mean, I have always found him. He seems to be for ever ready to fall + down and worship a rich Arab, but is relentless to a poor black slave. + When he swears most, you may be sure he lies most, and yet this is the + breed which is multiplied most at Zanzibar. + </p> + <p> + The Banyan is a born trader, the beau-ideal of a sharp money-making man. + Money flows to his pockets as naturally as water down a steep. No pang of + conscience will prevent him from cheating his fellow man. He excels a Jew, + and his only rival in a market is a Parsee; an Arab is a babe to him. It + is worth money to see him labor with all his energy, soul and body, to get + advantage by the smallest fraction of a coin over a native. Possibly the + native has a tusk, and it may weigh a couple of frasilahs, but, though the + scales indicate the weight, and the native declares solemnly that it must + be more than two frasilahs, yet our Banyan will asseverate and vow that + the native knows nothing whatever about it, and that the scales are wrong; + he musters up courage to lift it—it is a mere song, not much more + than a frasilah. "Come," he will say, "close, man, take the money and go + thy way. Art thou mad?" If the native hesitates, he will scream in a fury; + he pushes him about, spurns the ivory with contemptuous indifference,—never + was such ado about nothing; but though he tells the astounded native to be + up and going, he never intends the ivory shall leave his shop. + </p> + <p> + The Banyans exercise, of all other classes, most influence on the trade of + Central Africa. With the exception of a very few rich Arabs, almost all + other traders are subject to the pains and penalties which usury imposes. + A trader desirous to make a journey into the interior, whether for slaves + or ivory, gum-copal, or orchilla weed, proposes to a Banyan to advance him + $5,000, at 50, 60, or 70 per cent. interest. The Banyan is safe enough not + to lose, whether the speculation the trader is engaged upon pays or not. + An experienced trader seldom loses, or if he has been unfortunate, through + no deed of his own, he does not lose credit; with the help of the Banyan, + he is easily set on his feet again. + </p> + <p> + We will suppose, for the sake of illustrating how trade with the interior + is managed, that the Arab conveys by his caravan $5,000's worth of goods + into the interior. At Unyanyembe the goods are worth $10,000; at Ujiji, + they are worth $15,000: they have trebled in price. Five doti, or $7.50, + will purchase a slave in the markets of Ujiji that will fetch in Zanzibar + $30. Ordinary menslaves may be purchased for $6 which would sell for $25 + on the coast. We will say he purchases slaves to the full extent of his + means—after deducting $1,500 expenses of carriage to Ujiji and back—viz. + $3,500, the slaves—464 in number, at $7-50 per head—would + realize $13,920 at Zanzibar! Again, let us illustrate trade in ivory. A + merchant takes $5,000 to Ujiji, and after deducting $1,500 for expenses to + Ujiji, and back to Zanzibar, has still remaining $3,500 in cloth and + beads, with which he purchases ivory. At Ujiji ivory is bought at $20 the + frasilah, or 35 lbs., by which he is enabled with $3,500 to collect 175 + frasilahs, which, if good ivory, is worth about $60 per frasilah at + Zanzibar. The merchant thus finds that he has realized $10,500 net profit! + Arab traders have often done better than this, but they almost always have + come back with an enormous margin of profit. + </p> + <p> + The next people to the Banyans in power in Zanzibar are the Mohammedan + Hindis. Really it has been a debateable subject in my mind whether the + Hindis are not as wickedly determined to cheat in trade as the Banyans. + But, if I have conceded the palm to the latter, it has been done very + reluctantly. This tribe of Indians can produce scores of unconscionable + rascals where they can show but one honest merchant. One of the honestest + among men, white or black, red or yellow, is a Mohammedan Hindi called + Tarya Topan. Among the Europeans at Zanzibar, he has become a proverb for + honesty, and strict business integrity. He is enormously wealthy, owns + several ships and dhows, and is a prominent man in the councils of Seyd + Burghash. Tarya has many children, two or three of whom are grown-up sons, + whom he has reared up even as he is himself. But Tarya is but a + representative of an exceedingly small minority. + </p> + <p> + The Arabs, the Banyans, and the Mohammedan Hindis, represent the higher + and the middle classes. These classes own the estates, the ships, and the + trade. To these classes bow the half-caste and the negro. + </p> + <p> + The next most important people who go to make up the mixed population of + this island are the negroes. They consist of the aborigines, Wasawahili, + Somalis, Comorines, Wanyamwezi, and a host of tribal representatives of + Inner Africa. + </p> + <p> + To a white stranger about penetrating Africa, it is a most interesting + walk through the negro quarters of the Wanyamwezi and the Wasawahili. For + here he begins to learn the necessity of admitting that negroes are men, + like himself, though of a different colour; that they have passions and + prejudices, likes and dislikes, sympathies and antipathies, tastes and + feelings, in common with all human nature. The sooner he perceives this + fact, and adapts himself accordingly, the easier will be his journey among + the several races of the interior. The more plastic his nature, the more + prosperous will be his travels. + </p> + <p> + Though I had lived some time among the negroes of our Southern States, my + education was Northern, and I had met in the United States black men whom + I was proud to call friends. I was thus prepared to admit any black man, + possessing the attributes of true manhood or any good qualities, to my + friendship, even to a brotherhood with myself; and to respect him for + such, as much as if he were of my own colour and race. Neither his colour, + nor any peculiarities of physiognomy should debar him with me from any + rights he could fairly claim as a man. "Have these men—these black + savages from pagan Africa," I asked myself, "the qualities which make man + loveable among his fellows? Can these men—these barbarians—appreciate + kindness or feel resentment like myself?" was my mental question as I + travelled through their quarters and observed their actions. Need I say, + that I was much comforted in observing that they were as ready to be + influenced by passions, by loves and hates, as I was myself; that the + keenest observation failed to detect any great difference between their + nature and my own? + </p> + <p> + The negroes of the island probably number two-thirds of the entire + population. They compose the working-class, whether enslaved or free. + Those enslaved perform the work required on the plantations, the estates, + and gardens of the landed proprietors, or perform the work of carriers, + whether in the country or in the city. Outside the city they may be seen + carrying huge loads on their heads, as happy as possible, not because they + are kindly treated or that their work is light, but because it is their + nature to be gay and light-hearted, because they, have conceived neither + joys nor hopes which may not be gratified at will, nor cherished any + ambition beyond their reach, and therefore have not been baffled in their + hopes nor known disappointment. + </p> + <p> + Within the city, negro carriers may be heard at all hours, in couples, + engaged in the transportation of clove-bags, boxes of merchandise, &c., + from store to "godown" and from "go-down" to the beach, singing a kind of + monotone chant for the encouragement of each other, and for the guiding of + their pace as they shuffle through the streets with bare feet. You may + recognise these men readily, before long, as old acquaintances, by the + consistency with which they sing the tunes they have adopted. Several + times during a day have I heard the same couple pass beneath the windows + of the Consulate, delivering themselves of the same invariable tune and + words. Some might possibly deem the songs foolish and silly, but they had + a certain attraction for me, and I considered that they were as useful as + anything else for the purposes they were intended. + </p> + <p> + The town of Zanzibar, situate on the south-western shore of the island, + contains a population of nearly one hundred thousand inhabitants; that of + the island altogether I would estimate at not more than two hundred + thousand inhabitants, including all races. + </p> + <p> + The greatest number of foreign vessels trading with this port are + American, principally from New York and Salem. After the American come the + German, then come the French and English. They arrive loaded with American + sheeting, brandy, gunpowder, muskets, beads, English cottons, brass-wire, + china-ware, and other notions, and depart with ivory, gum-copal, cloves, + hides, cowries, sesamum, pepper, and cocoa-nut oil. + </p> + <p> + The value of the exports from this port is estimated at $3,000,000, and + the imports from all countries at $3,500,000. + </p> + <p> + The Europeans and Americans residing in the town of Zanzibar are either + Government officials, independent merchants, or agents for a few great + mercantile houses in Europe and America. + </p> + <p> + The climate of Zanzibar is not the most agreeable in the world. I have + heard Americans and Europeans condemn it most heartily. I have also seen + nearly one-half of the white colony laid up in one day from sickness. A + noxious malaria is exhaled from the shallow inlet of Malagash, and the + undrained filth, the garbage, offal, dead mollusks, dead pariah dogs, dead + cats, all species of carrion, remains of men and beasts unburied, assist + to make Zanzibar a most unhealthy city; and considering that it it ought + to be most healthy, nature having pointed out to man the means, and having + assisted him so far, it is most wonderful that the ruling prince does not + obey the dictates of reason. + </p> + <p> + The bay of Zanzibar is in the form of a crescent, and on the south-western + horn of it is built the city. On the east Zanzibar is bounded almost + entirely by the Malagash Lagoon, an inlet of the sea. It penetrates to at + least two hundred and fifty yards of the sea behind or south of Shangani + Point. Were these two hundred and fifty yards cut through by a ten foot + ditch, and the inlet deepened slightly, Zanzibar would become an island of + itself, and what wonders would it not effect as to health and salubrity! I + have never heard this suggestion made, but it struck me that the foreign + consuls resident at Zanzibar might suggest this work to the Sultan, and so + get the credit of having made it as healthy a place to live in as any near + the equator. But apropos of this, I remember what Capt. Webb, the American + Consul, told me on my first arrival, when I expressed to him my wonder at + the apathy and inertness of men born with the indomitable energy which + characterises Europeans and Americans, of men imbued with the progressive + and stirring instincts of the white people, who yet allow themselves to + dwindle into pallid phantoms of their kind, into hypochondriacal invalids, + into hopeless believers in the deadliness of the climate, with hardly a + trace of that daring and invincible spirit which rules the world. + </p> + <p> + "Oh," said Capt. Webb, "it is all very well for you to talk about energy + and all that kind of thing, but I assure you that a residence of four or + five years on this island, among such people as are here, would make you + feel that it was a hopeless task to resist the influence of the example by + which the most energetic spirits are subdued, and to which they must + submit in time, sooner or later. We were all terribly energetic when we + first came here, and struggled bravely to make things go on as we were + accustomed to have them at home, but we have found that we were knocking + our heads against granite walls to no purpose whatever. These fellows—the + Arabs, the Banyans, and the Hindis—you can't make them go faster by + ever so much scolding and praying, and in a very short time you see the + folly of fighting against the unconquerable. Be patient, and don't fret, + that is my advice, or you won't live long here." + </p> + <p> + There were three or four intensely busy men, though, at Zanzibar, who were + out at all hours of the day. I know one, an American; I fancy I hear the + quick pit-pat of his feet on the pavement beneath the Consulate, his + cheery voice ringing the salutation, "Yambo!" to every one he met; and he + had lived at Zanzibar twelve years. + </p> + <p> + I know another, one of the sturdiest of Scotchmen, a most + pleasant-mannered and unaffected man, sincere in whatever he did or said, + who has lived at Zanzibar several years, subject to the infructuosities of + the business he has been engaged in, as well as to the calor and ennui of + the climate, who yet presents as formidable a front as ever to the + apathetic native of Zanzibar. No man can charge Capt. H. C. Fraser, + formerly of the Indian Navy, with being apathetic. + </p> + <p> + I might with ease give evidence of the industry of others, but they are + all my friends, and they are all good. The American, English, German, and + French residents have ever treated me with a courtesy and kindness I am + not disposed to forget. Taken as a body, it would be hard to find a more + generous or hospitable colony of white men in any part of the world. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0003" id="link2HCH0003"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER III. — ORGANIZATION OF THE EXPEDITION. + </h2> + <p> + I was totally ignorant of the interior, and it was difficult at first to + know, what I needed, in order to take an Expedition into Central Africa. + Time was precious, also, and much of it could not be devoted to inquiry + and investigation. In a case like this, it would have been a godsend, I + thought, had either of the three gentlemen, Captains Burton, Speke, or + Grant, given some information on these points; had they devoted a chapter + upon, "How to get ready an Expedition for Central Africa." The purpose of + this chapter, then, is to relate how I set about it, that other travellers + coming after me may have the benefit of my experience. + </p> + <p> + These are some of the questions I asked myself, as I tossed on my bed at + night:— + </p> + <p> + "How much money is required?" + </p> + <p> + "How many pagazis, or carriers? + </p> + <p> + "How many soldiers?" + </p> + <p> + "How much cloth?" + </p> + <p> + "How many beads?" + </p> + <p> + "How much wire?" + </p> + <p> + "What kinds of cloth are required for the different tribes?" + </p> + <p> + Ever so many questions to myself brought me no clearer the exact point I + wished to arrive at. I scribbled over scores of sheets of paper, made + estimates, drew out lists of material, calculated the cost of keeping one + hundred men for one year, at so many yards of different kinds of cloth, + etc. I studied Burton, Speke, and Grant in vain. A good deal of + geographical, ethnological, and other information appertaining to the + study of Inner Africa was obtainable, but information respecting the + organization of an expedition requisite before proceeding to Africa, was + not in any book. The Europeans at Zanzibar knew as little as possible + about this particular point. There was not one white man at Zanzibar who + could tell how many dotis a day a force of one hundred men required to buy + food for one day on the road. Neither, indeed, was it their business to + know. But what should I do at all, at all? This was a grand question. + </p> + <p> + I decided it were best to hunt up an Arab merchant who had been engaged in + the ivory trade, or who was fresh from the interior. + </p> + <p> + Sheikh Hashid was a man of note and of wealth in Zanzibar. He had himself + despatched several caravans into the interior, and was necessarily + acquainted with several prominent traders who came to his house to gossip + about their adventures and gains. He was also the proprietor of the large + house Capt. Webb occupied; besides, he lived across the narrow street + which separated his house from the Consulate. Of all men Sheikh Hashid was + the man to be consulted, and he was accordingly invited to visit me at the + Consulate. + </p> + <p> + From the grey-bearded and venerable-looking Sheikh, I elicited more + information about African currency, the mode of procedure, the quantity + and quality of stuffs I required, than I had obtained from three months' + study of books upon Central Africa; and from other Arab merchants to whom + the ancient Sheikh introduced me, I received most valuable suggestions and + hints, which enabled me at last to organize an Expedition. + </p> + <p> + The reader must bear in mind that a traveller requires only that which is + sufficient for travel and exploration that a superfluity of goods or means + will prove as fatal to him as poverty of supplies. It is on this question + of quality and quantity that the traveller has first to exercise his + judgment and discretion. + </p> + <p> + My informants gave me to understand that for one hundred men, 10 doti, or + 40 yards of cloth per diem, would suffice for food. The proper course to + pursue, I found, was to purchase 2,000 doti of American sheeting, 1,000 + doti of Kaniki, and 650 doti of the coloured cloths, such as Barsati, a + great favourite in Unyamwezi; Sohari, taken in Ugogo; Ismahili, Taujiri, + Joho, Shash, Rehani, Jamdani or Kunguru-Cutch, blue and pink. These were + deemed amply sufficient for the subsistence of one hundred men for twelve + months. Two years at this rate would require 4,000 doti = 16,000 yards of + American sheeting; 2,000 doti = 8,000 yards of Kaniki; 1,300 doti = 5,200 + yards of mixed coloured cloths. This was definite and valuable information + to me, and excepting the lack of some suggestions as to the quality of the + sheeting, Kaniki, and coloured cloths, I had obtained all I desired upon + this point. + </p> + <p> + Second in importance to the amount of cloth required was the quantity and + quality of the beads necessary. Beads, I was told, took the place of cloth + currency among some tribes of the interior. One tribe preferred white to + black beads, brown to yellow, red to green, green to white, and so on. + Thus, in Unyamwezi, red (sami-sami) beads would readily be taken, where + all other kinds would be refused; black (bubu) beads, though currency in + Ugogo, were positively worthless with all other tribes; the egg + (sungomazzi) beads, though valuable in Ujiji and Uguhha, would be refused + in all other countries; the white (Merikani) beads though good in Ufipa, + and some parts of Usagara and Ugogo, would certainly be despised in + Useguhha and Ukonongo. Such being the case, I was obliged to study + closely, and calculate the probable stay of an expedition in the several + countries, so as to be sure to provide a sufficiency of each kind, and + guard against any great overplus. Burton and Speke, for instance, were + obliged to throw away as worthless several hundred fundo of beads. + </p> + <p> + For example, supposing the several nations of Europe had each its own + currency, without the means of exchange, and supposing a man was about to + travel through Europe on foot, before starting he would be apt to + calculate how many days it would take him to travel through France; how + many through Prussia, Austria, and Russia, then to reckon the expense he + would be likely to incur per day. If the expense be set down at a napoleon + per day, and his journey through France would occupy thirty days, the sum + required forgoing and returning might be properly set down at sixty + napoleons, in which case, napoleons not being current money in Prussia, + Austria, or Russia, it would be utterly useless for him to burden himself + with the weight of a couple of thousand napoleons in gold. + </p> + <p> + My anxiety on this point was most excruciating. Over and over I studied + the hard names and measures, conned again and again the polysyllables; + hoping to be able to arrive some time at an intelligible definition of the + terms. I revolved in my mind the words Mukunguru, Ghulabio, Sungomazzi, + Kadunduguru, Mutunda, Samisami, Bubu, Merikani, Hafde, Lunghio-Rega, and + Lakhio, until I was fairly beside myself. Finally, however, I came to the + conclusion that if I reckoned my requirements at fifty khete, or five + fundo per day, for two years, and if I purchased only eleven varieties, I + might consider myself safe enough. The purchase was accordingly made, and + twenty-two sacks of the best species were packed and brought to Capt. + Webb's house, ready for transportation to Bagamoyo. + </p> + <p> + After the beads came the wire question. I discovered, after considerable + trouble, that Nos. 5 and 6—almost of the thickness of telegraph wire—were + considered the best numbers for trading purposes. While beads stand for + copper coins in Africa, cloth measures for silver; wire is reckoned as + gold in the countries beyond the Tan-ga-ni-ka.* Ten frasilah, or 350 lbs., + of brass-wire, my Arab adviser thought, would be ample. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + * It will be seen that I differ from Capt. Burton in the + spelling of this word, as I deem the letter "y" superfluous. +</pre> + <p> + Having purchased the cloth, the beads, and the wire, it was with no little + pride that I surveyed the comely bales and packages lying piled up, row + above row, in Capt. Webb's capacious store-room. Yet my work was not + ended, it was but beginning; there were provisions, cooking-utensils, + boats, rope, twine, tents, donkeys, saddles, bagging, canvas, tar, + needles, tools, ammunition, guns, equipments, hatchets, medicines, + bedding, presents for chiefs—in short, a thousand things not yet + purchased. The ordeal of chaffering and haggling with steel-hearted + Banyans, Hindis, Arabs, and half-castes was most trying. For instance, I + purchased twenty-two donkeys at Zanzibar. $40 and $50 were asked, which I + had to reduce to $15 or $20 by an infinite amount of argument worthy, I + think, of a nobler cause. As was my experience with the ass-dealers so was + it with the petty merchants; even a paper of pins was not purchased + without a five per cent. reduction from the price demanded, involving, of + course, a loss of much time and patience. + </p> + <p> + After collecting the donkeys, I discovered there were no pack-saddles to + be obtained in Zanzibar. Donkeys without pack-saddles were of no use + whatever. I invented a saddle to be manufactured by myself and my white + man Farquhar, wholly from canvas, rope, and cotton. + </p> + <p> + Three or four frasilahs of cotton, and ten bolts of canvas were required + for the saddles. A specimen saddle was made by myself in order to test its + efficiency. A donkey was taken and saddled, and a load of 140 lbs. was + fastened to it, and though the animal—a wild creature of Unyamwezi—struggled + and reared frantic ally, not a particle gave way. After this experiment, + Farquhar was set to work to manufacture twenty-one more after the same + pattern. Woollen pads were also purchased to protect the animals from + being galled. It ought to be mentioned here, perhaps, that the idea of + such a saddle as I manufactured, was first derived from the Otago saddle, + in use among the transport-trains of the English army in Abyssinia. + </p> + <p> + A man named John William Shaw—a native of London, England, lately + third-mate of the American ship 'Nevada'—applied to me for work. + Though his discharge from the 'Nevada' was rather suspicious, yet he + possessed all the requirements of such a man as I needed, and was an + experienced hand with the palm and needle, could cut canvas to fit + anything, was a pretty good navigator, ready and willing, so far as his + professions went.. I saw no reason to refuse his services, and he was + accordingly engaged at $300 per annum, to rank second to William L. + Farquhar. Farquhar was a capital navigator and excellent mathematician; + was strong, energetic, and clever. + </p> + <p> + The next thing I was engaged upon was to enlist, arm, and equip, a + faithful escort of twenty men for the road. Johari, the chief dragoman of + the American Consulate, informed me that he knew where certain of Speke's + "Faithfuls" were yet to be found. The idea had struck me before, that if I + could obtain the services of a few men acquainted with the ways of white + men, and who could induce other good men to join the expedition I was + organizing, I might consider myself fortunate. More especially had I + thought of Seedy Mbarak Mombay, commonly called "Bombay," who though his + head was "woodeny," and his hands "clumsy," was considered to be the + "faithfulest" of the "Faithfuls." + </p> + <p> + With the aid of the dragoman Johari, I secured in a few hours the services + of Uledi (Capt. Grant's former valet), Ulimengo, Baruti, Ambari, Mabruki + (Muinyi Mabruki—Bull-headed Mabruki, Capt. Burton's former unhappy + valet)—five of Speke's "Faithfuls." When I asked them if they were + willing to join another white man's expedition to Ujiji, they replied very + readily that they were willing to join any brother of "Speke's." Dr. John + Kirk, Her Majesty's Consul at Zanzibar, who was present, told them that + though I was no brother of "Speke's," I spoke his language. This + distinction mattered little to them: and I heard them, with great delight, + declare their readiness to go anywhere with me, or do anything I wished. + </p> + <p> + Mombay, as they called him, or Bombay, as we know him, had gone to Pemba, + an island lying north of Zanzibar. Uledi was sure Mombay would jump with + joy at the prospect of another expedition. Johari was therefore + commissioned to write to him at Pemba, to inform him of the good fortune + in store for him. + </p> + <p> + On the fourth morning after the letter had been despatched, the famous + Bombay made his appearance, followed in decent order and due rank by the + "Faithfuls" of "Speke." I looked in vain for the "woodeny head" and + "alligator teeth" with which his former master had endowed him. I saw a + slender short man of fifty or thereabouts, with a grizzled head, an + uncommonly high, narrow forehead, with a very large mouth, showing teeth + very irregular, and wide apart. An ugly rent in the upper front row of + Bombay's teeth was made with the clenched fist of Capt. Speke in Uganda + when his master's patience was worn out, and prompt punishment became + necessary. That Capt. Speke had spoiled him with kindness was evident, + from the fact that Bombay had the audacity to stand up for a boxing-match + with him. But these things I only found out, when, months afterwards, I + was called upon to administer punishment to him myself. But, at his first + appearance, I was favourably impressed with Bombay, though his face was + rugged, his mouth large, his eyes small, and his nose flat. + </p> + <p> + "Salaam aliekum," were the words he greeted me with. "Aliekum salaam," I + replied, with all the gravity I could muster. I then informed him I + required him as captain of my soldiers to Ujiji. His reply was that he was + ready to do whatever I told him, go wherever I liked in short, be a + pattern to servants, and a model to soldiers. He hoped I would give him a + uniform, and a good gun, both of which were promised. + </p> + <p> + Upon inquiring for the rest of the "Faithfuls" who accompanied Speke into + Egypt, I was told that at Zanzibar there were but six. Ferrajji, Maktub, + Sadik, Sunguru, Manyu, Matajari, Mkata, and Almas, were dead; Uledi and + Mtamani were in Unyanyembe; Hassan had gone to Kilwa, and Ferahan was + supposed to be in Ujiji. + </p> + <p> + Out of the six "Faithfuls," each of whom still retained his medal for + assisting in the "Discovery of the Sources of the Nile," one, poor + Mabruki, had met with a sad misfortune, which I feared would incapacitate + him from active usefulness. + </p> + <p> + Mabruki the "Bull-headed," owned a shamba (or a house with a garden + attached to it), of which he was very proud. Close to him lived a + neighbour in similar circumstances, who was a soldier of Seyd Majid, with + whom Mabruki, who was of a quarrelsome disposition, had a feud, which + culminated in the soldier inducing two or three of his comrades to assist + him in punishing the malevolent Mabruki, and this was done in a manner + that only the heart of an African could conceive. They tied the + unfortunate fellow by his wrists to a branch of a tree, and after + indulging their brutal appetite for revenge in torturing him, left him to + hang in that position for two days. At the expiration of the second day, + he was accidentally discovered in a most pitiable condition. His hands had + swollen to an immense size, and the veins of one hand having been + ruptured, he had lost its use. It is needless to say that, when the affair + came to Seyd Majid's ears, the miscreants were severely punished. Dr. + Kirk, who attended the poor fellow, succeeded in restoring one hand to + something of a resemblance of its former shape, but the other hand is + sadly marred, and its former usefulness gone for ever. + </p> + <p> + However, I engaged Mabruki, despite his deformed hands, his ugliness and + vanity, because he was one of Speke's "Faithfuls." For if he but wagged + his tongue in my service, kept his eyes open, and opened his mouth at the + proper time, I assured myself I could make him useful. + </p> + <p> + Bombay, my captain of escort, succeeded in getting eighteen more free men + to volunteer as "askari" (soldiers), men whom he knew would not desert, + and for whom he declared himself responsible. They were an exceedingly + fine-looking body of men, far more intelligent in appearance than I could + ever have believed African barbarians could be. They hailed principally + from Uhiyow, others from Unyamwezi, some came from Useguhha and Ugindo. + </p> + <p> + Their wages were set down at $36 each man per annum, or $3 each per month. + Each soldier was provided with a flintlock musket, powder horn, + bullet-pouch, knife, and hatchet, besides enough powder and ball for 200 + rounds. + </p> + <p> + Bombay, in consideration of his rank, and previous faithful services to + Burton, Speke and Grant, was engaged at $80 a year, half that sum in + advance, a good muzzle-loading rifle, besides, a pistol, knife, and + hatchet were given to him, while the other five "Faithfuls," Ambari, + Mabruki, Ulimengo, Baruti, and Uledi, were engaged at $40 a year, with + proper equipments as soldiers. + </p> + <p> + Having studied fairly well all the East African travellers' books + regarding Eastern and Central Africa, my mind had conceived the + difficulties which would present themselves during the prosecution of my + search after Dr. Livingstone. + </p> + <p> + To obviate all of these, as well as human wit could suggest, was my + constant thought and aim. + </p> + <p> + "Shall I permit myself, while looking from Ujiji over the waters of the + Tanganika Lake to the other side, to be balked on the threshold of success + by the insolence of a King Kannena or the caprice of a Hamed bin + Sulayyam?" was a question I asked myself. To guard against such a + contingency I determined to carry my own boats. "Then," I thought, "if I + hear of Livingstone being on the Tanganika, I can launch my boat and + proceed after him." + </p> + <p> + I procured one large boat, capable of carrying twenty persons, with stores + and goods sufficient for a cruise, from the American Consul, for the sum + of $80, and a smaller one from another American gentleman for $40. The + latter would hold comfortably six men, with suitable stores. + </p> + <p> + I did not intend to carry the boats whole or bodily, but to strip them of + their boards, and carry the timbers and thwarts only. As a substitute for + the boards, I proposed to cover each boat with a double canvas skin well + tarred. The work of stripping them and taking them to pieces fell to me. + This little job occupied me five days. + </p> + <p> + I also packed them up, for the pagazis. Each load was carefully weighed, + and none exceeded 68 lbs. in weight. John Shaw excelled himself in the + workmanship displayed on the canvas boats; when finished, they fitted + their frames admirably. The canvas—six bolts of English hemp, No. 3—was + procured from Ludha Damji, who furnished it from the Sultan's storeroom. + </p> + <p> + An insuperable obstacle to rapid transit in Africa is the want of + carriers, and as speed was the main object of the Expedition under my + command, my duty was to lessen this difficulty as much as possible. My + carriers could only be engaged after arriving at Bagamoyo, on the + mainland. I had over twenty good donkeys ready, and I thought a cart + adapted for the footpaths of Africa might prove an advantage. Accordingly + I had a cart constructed, eighteen inches wide and five feet long, + supplied with two fore-wheels of a light American wagon, more for the + purpose of conveying the narrow ammunition-boxes. I estimated that if a + donkey could carry to Unyanyembe a load of four frasilahs, or 140 lbs., he + ought to be able to draw eight frasilahs on such a cart, which would be + equal to the carrying capacity of four stout pagazis or carriers. Events + will prove, how my theories were borne out by practice. + </p> + <p> + When my purchases were completed, and I beheld them piled up, tier after + tier, row upon row, here a mass of cooking-utensils, there bundles of + rope, tents, saddles, a pile of portmanteaus and boxes, containing every + imaginable thing, I confess I was rather abashed at my own temerity. Here + were at least six tons of material! "How will it ever be possible," I + thought, "to move all this inert mass across the wilderness stretching + between the sea, and the great lakes of Africa? Bah, cast all doubts away, + man, and have at them! 'Sufficient for the day is the evil thereof,' + without borrowing from the morrow." + </p> + <p> + The traveller must needs make his way into the African interior after a + fashion very different from that to which he has been accustomed in other + countries. He requires to take with him just what a ship must have when + about to sail on a long voyage. He must have his slop chest, his little + store of canned dainties, and his medicines, besides which, he must have + enough guns, powder, and ball to be able to make a series of good fights + if necessary. He must have men to convey these miscellaneous articles; and + as a man's maximum load does not exceed 70 lbs., to convey 11,000 lbs. + requires nearly 160 men. + </p> + <p> + Europe and the Orient, even Arabia and Turkestan, have royal ways of + travelling compared to Africa. Specie is received in all those countries, + by which a traveller may carry his means about with him on his own person. + Eastern and Central Africa, however, demand a necklace, instead of a cent; + two yards of American sheeting, instead of half a dollar, or a florin, and + a kitindi of thick brass-wire, in place of a gold piece. + </p> + <p> + The African traveller can hire neither wagons nor camels, neither horses + nor mules, to proceed with him into the interior. His means of conveyance + are limited to black and naked men, who demand at least $15 a head for + every 70 lbs. weight carried only as far as Unyanyembe. + </p> + <p> + One thing amongst others my predecessors omitted to inform men bound for + Africa, which is of importance, and that is, that no traveller should ever + think of coming to Zanzibar with his money in any other shape than gold + coin. Letters of credit, circular notes, and such civilized things I have + found to be a century ahead of Zanzibar people. + </p> + <p> + Twenty and twenty-five cents deducted out of every dollar I drew on paper + is one of the unpleasant, if not unpleasantest things I have committed to + lasting memory. For Zanzibar is a spot far removed from all avenues of + European commerce, and coin is at a high premium. A man may talk and + entreat, but though he may have drafts, cheques, circular notes, letters + of credit, a carte blanche to get what he wants, out of every dollar must, + be deducted twenty, twenty-five and thirty cents, so I was told, and so + was my experience. What a pity there is no branch-bank here! + </p> + <p> + I had intended to have gone into Africa incognito. But the fact that a + white man, even an American, was about to enter Africa was soon known all + over Zanzibar. This fact was repeated a thousand times in the streets, + proclaimed in all shop alcoves, and at the custom-house. The native bazaar + laid hold of it, and agitated it day and night until my departure. The + foreigners, including the Europeans, wished to know the pros and cons of + my coming in and going out. + </p> + <p> + My answer to all questions, pertinent and impertinent, was, I am going to + Africa. Though my card bore the words + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + ________________________________________ + | | + | HENRY M. STANLEY. | + | | + | | + | New York Herald. | + |________________________________________| +</pre> + <p> + very few, I believe, ever coupled the words 'New York Herald' with a + search after "Doctor Livingstone." It was not my fault, was it? + </p> + <p> + Ah, me! what hard work it is to start an expedition alone! What with + hurrying through the baking heat of the fierce relentless sun from shop to + shop, strengthening myself with far-reaching and enduring patience far the + haggling contest with the livid-faced Hindi, summoning courage and wit to + brow-beat the villainous Goanese, and match the foxy Banyan, talking + volumes throughout the day, correcting estimates, making up accounts, + superintending the delivery of purchased articles, measuring and weighing + them, to see that everything was of full measure and weight, overseeing + the white men Farquhar and Shaw, who were busy on donkey saddles, sails, + tents, and boats for the Expedition, I felt, when the day was over, as + though limbs and brain well deserved their rest. Such labours were mine + unremittingly for a month. + </p> + <p> + Having bartered drafts on Mr. James Gordon Bennett to the amount of + several thousand dollars for cloth, beads, wire, donkeys, and a thousand + necessaries, having advanced pay to the white men, and black escort of the + Expedition, having fretted Capt. Webb and his family more than enough with + the din of preparation, and filled his house with my goods, there was + nothing further to do but to leave my formal adieus with the Europeans, + and thank the Sultan and those gentlemen who had assisted me, before + embarking for Bagamoyo. + </p> + <p> + The day before my departure from Zanzibar the American Consul, having just + habited himself in his black coat, and taking with him an extra black hat, + in order to be in state apparel, proceeded with me to the Sultan's palace. + The prince had been generous to me; he had presented me with an Arab + horse, had furnished me with letters of introduction to his agents, his + chief men, and representatives in the interior, and in many other ways had + shown himself well disposed towards me. + </p> + <p> + The palace is a large, roomy, lofty, square house close to the fort, built + of coral, and plastered thickly with lime mortar. In appearance it is half + Arabic and half Italian. The shutters are Venetian blinds painted a vivid + green, and presenting a striking contrast to the whitewashed walls. Before + the great, lofty, wide door were ranged in two crescents several Baluch + and Persian mercenaries, armed with curved swords and targes of rhinoceros + hide. Their dress consisted of a muddy-white cotton shirt, reaching to the + ancles, girdled with a leather belt thickly studded with silver bosses. + </p> + <p> + As we came in sight a signal was passed to some person inside the + entrance. When within twenty yards of the door, the Sultan, who was + standing waiting, came down the steps, and, passing through the ranks, + advanced toward us, with his right hand stretched out, and a genial smile + of welcome on his face. On our side we raised our hats, and shook hands + with him, after which, doing according as he bade us, we passed forward, + and arrived on the highest step near the entrance door. He pointed + forward; we bowed and arrived at the foot of an unpainted and narrow + staircase to turn once more to the Sultan. The Consul, I perceived, was + ascending sideways, a mode of progression which I saw was intended for a + compromise with decency and dignity. At the top of the stairs we waited, + with our faces towards the up-coming Prince. Again we were waved + magnanimously forward, for before us was the reception-hall and + throne-room. I noticed, as I marched forward to the furthest end, that the + room was high, and painted in the Arabic style, that the carpet was thick + and of Persian fabric, that the furniture consisted of a dozen gilt chairs + and a chandelier, + </p> + <p> + We were seated; Ludha Damji, the Banyan collector of customs, a + venerable-looking old man, with a shrewd intelligent face, sat on the + right of the Sultan; next to him was the great Mohammedan merchant Tarya + Topan who had come to be present at the interview, not only because he was + one of the councillors of His Highness, but because he also took a lively + interest in this American Expedition. Opposite to Ludha sat Capt. Webb, + and next to him I was seated, opposite Tarya Topan. The Sultan sat in a + gilt chair between the Americans and the councillors. Johari the dragoman + stood humbly before the Sultan, expectant and ready to interpret what we + had to communicate to the Prince. + </p> + <p> + The Sultan, so far as dress goes, might be taken for a Mingrelian + gentleman, excepting, indeed, for the turban, whose ample folds in + alternate colours of red, yellow, brown, and white, encircled his head. + His long robe was of dark cloth, cinctured round the waist with his rich + sword-belt, from which was suspended a gold-hilted scimitar, encased in a + scabbard also enriched with gold: His legs and feet were bare, and had a + ponderous look about them, since he suffered from that strange curse of + Zanzibar—elephantiasis. His feet were slipped into a pair of watta + (Arabic for slippers), with thick soles and a strong leathern band over + the instep. His light complexion and his correct features, which are + intelligent and regular, bespeak the Arab patrician. They indicate, + however, nothing except his high descent and blood; no traits of character + are visible unless there is just a trace of amiability, and perfect + contentment with himself and all around. + </p> + <p> + Such is Prince, or Seyd Burghash, Sultan of Zanzibar and Pemba, and the + East coast of Africa, from Somali Land to the Mozambique, as he appeared + to me. + </p> + <p> + Coffee was served in cups supported by golden finjans, also some cocoa-nut + milk, and rich sweet sherbet. + </p> + <p> + The conversation began with the question addressed to the Consul. + </p> + <p> + "Are you well?" + </p> + <p> + Consul.—"Yes, thank you. How is His Highness?" + </p> + <p> + Highness.—"Quite well!" + </p> + <p> + Highness to me.—"Are you well?" + </p> + <p> + Answer.—"Quite well, thanks!" + </p> + <p> + The Consul now introduces business; and questions about my travels follow + from His Highness— + </p> + <p> + "How do you like Persia?" + </p> + <p> + "Have you seen Kerbela, Bagdad, Masr, Stamboul?" + </p> + <p> + "Have the Turks many soldiers?" + </p> + <p> + "How many has Persia?" + </p> + <p> + "Is Persia fertile?" + </p> + <p> + "How do you like Zanzibar?" + </p> + <p> + Having answered each question to his Highness' satisfaction, he handed me + letters of introduction to his officers at Bagamoyo and Kaole, and a + general introductory letter to all Arab merchants whom I might meet on the + road, and concluded his remarks to me, with the expressed hope, that on + whatever mission I was bound, I should be perfectly successful. + </p> + <p> + We bowed ourselves out of his presence in much the same manner that we had + bowed ourselves in, he accompanying us to the great entrance door. + </p> + <p> + Mr. Goodhue of Salem, an American merchant long resident in Zanzibar, + presented me, as I gave him my adieu, with a blooded bay horse, imported + from the Cape of Good Hope, and worth, at least at Zanzibar, $500. + </p> + <p> + Feb. 4.—By the 4th of February, twenty-eight days from the date of + my arrival at Zanzibar, the organization and equipment of the "'New York + Herald' Expedition" was complete; tents and saddles had been manufactured, + boats and sails were ready. The donkeys brayed, and the horses neighed + impatiently for the road. + </p> + <p> + Etiquette demanded that I should once more present my card to the European + and American Consuls at Zanzibar, and the word "farewell" was said to + everybody. + </p> + <p> + On the fifth day, four dhows were anchored before the American Consulate. + Into one were lifted the two horses, into two others the donkeys, into the + fourth, the largest, the black escort, and bulky moneys of the Expedition. + </p> + <p> + A little before noon we set sail. The American flag, a present to the + Expedition by that kind-hearted lady, Mrs. Webb, was raised to the + mast-head; the Consul, his lady, and exuberant little children, Mary and + Charley, were on the housetop waving the starry banner, hats, and + handkerchiefs, a token of farewell to me and mine. Happy people, and good! + may their course and ours be prosperous, and may God's blessing rest on us + all! + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0004" id="link2HCH0004"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER IV. — LIFE AT BAGAMOYO. + </h2> + <p> + The isle of Zanzibar with its groves of cocoa-nut, mango, clove, and + cinnamon, and its sentinel islets of Chumbi and French, with its + whitewashed city and jack-fruit odor, with its harbor and ships that tread + the deep, faded slowly from view, and looking westward, the African + continent rose, a similar bank of green verdure to that which had just + receded till it was a mere sinuous line above the horizon, looming in a + northerly direction to the sublimity of a mountain chain. The distance + across from Zanzibar to Bagamoyo may be about twenty-five miles, yet it + took the dull and lazy dhows ten hours before they dropped anchor on the + top of the coral reef plainly visible a few feet below the surface of the + water, within a hundred yards of the beach. + </p> + <p> + The newly-enlisted soldiers, fond of noise and excitement, discharged + repeated salvos by way of a salute to the mixed crowd of Arabs, Banyans, + and Wasawahili, who stood on the beach to receive the Musungu (white man), + which they did with a general stare and a chorus of "Yambo, bana?" (how + are you, master?) + </p> + <p> + In our own land the meeting with a large crowd is rather a tedious + operation, as our independent citizens insist on an interlacing of + fingers, and a vigorous shaking thereof before their pride is satisfied, + and the peaceful manifestation endorsed; but on this beach, well lined + with spectators, a response of "Yambo, bana!" sufficed, except with one + who of all there was acknowledged the greatest, and who, claiming, like + all great men, individual attention, came forward to exchange another + "Yambo!" on his own behalf, and to shake hands. This personage with a long + trailing turban, was Jemadar Esau, commander of the Zanzibar force of + soldiers, police, or Baluch gendarmes stationed at Bagamoyo. He had + accompanied Speke and Grant a good distance into the interior, and they + had rewarded him liberally. He took upon himself the responsibility of + assisting in the debarkation of the Expedition, and unworthy as was his + appearance, disgraceful as he was in his filth, I here commend him for his + influence over the rabble to all future East African travellers. + </p> + <p> + Foremost among those who welcomed us was a Father of the Society of + St.-Esprit, who with other Jesuits, under Father Superior Horner, have + established a missionary post of considerable influence and merit at + Bagamoyo. We were invited to partake of the hospitality of the Mission, to + take our meals there, and, should we desire it, to pitch our camp on their + grounds. But however strong the geniality of the welcome and sincere the + heartiness of the invitation, I am one of those who prefer independence to + dependence if it is possible. Besides, my sense of the obligation between + host and guest had just had a fine edge put upon it by the delicate + forbearance of my kind host at Zanzibar, who had betrayed no sign of + impatience at the trouble I was only too conscious of having caused him. I + therefore informed the hospitable Padre, that only for one night could I + suffer myself to be enticed from my camp. + </p> + <p> + I selected a house near the western outskirts of the town, where there is + a large open square through which the road from Unyanyembe enters. Had I + been at Bagamoyo a month, I could not have bettered my location. My tents + were pitched fronting the tembe (house) I had chosen, enclosing a small + square, where business could be transacted, bales looked over, examined, + and marked, free from the intrusion of curious sightseers. After driving + the twenty-seven animals of the Expedition into the enclosure in the rear + of the house, storing the bales of goods, and placing a cordon of soldiers + round, I proceeded to the Jesuit Mission, to a late dinner, being tired + and ravenous, leaving the newly-formed camp in charge of the white men and + Capt. Bombay. + </p> + <p> + The Mission is distant from the town a good half mile, to the north of it; + it is quite a village of itself, numbering some fifteen or sixteen houses. + There are more than ten padres engaged in the establishment, and as many + sisters, and all find plenty of occupation in educing from native crania + the fire of intelligence. Truth compels me to state that they are very + successful, having over two hundred pupils, boys and girls, in the + Mission, and, from the oldest to the youngest, they show the impress of + the useful education they have received. + </p> + <p> + The dinner furnished to the padres and their guest consisted of as many + plats as a first-class hotel in Paris usually supplies, and cooked with + nearly as much skill, though the surroundings were by no means equal. I + feel assured also that the padres, besides being tasteful in their potages + and entrees, do not stultify their ideas for lack of that element which + Horace, Hafiz, and Byron have praised so much. The champagne—think + of champagne Cliquot in East Africa!—Lafitte, La Rose, Burgundy, and + Bordeaux were of first-rate quality, and the meek and lowly eyes of the + fathers were not a little brightened under the vinous influence. Ah! those + fathers understand life, and appreciate its duration. Their festive board + drives the African jungle fever from their doors, while it soothes the + gloom and isolation which strike one with awe, as one emerges from the + lighted room and plunges into the depths of the darkness of an African + night, enlivened only by the wearying monotone of the frogs and crickets, + and the distant ululation of the hyena. It requires somewhat above human + effort, unaided by the ruby liquid that cheers, to be always suave and + polite amid the dismalities of native life in Africa. + </p> + <p> + After the evening meal, which replenished my failing strength, and for + which I felt the intensest gratitude, the most advanced of the pupils came + forward, to the number of twenty, with brass instruments, thus forming a + full band of music. It rather astonished me to hear instrumental sounds + issue forth in harmony from such woolly-headed youngsters; to hear + well-known French music at this isolated port, to hear negro boys, that a + few months ago knew nothing beyond the traditions of their ignorant + mothers, stand forth and chant Parisian songs about French valor and + glory, with all the sangfroid of gamins from the purlieus of + Saint-Antoine. + </p> + <p> + I had a most refreshing night's rest, and at dawn I sought out my camp, + with a will to enjoy the new life now commencing. On counting the animals, + two donkeys were missing; and on taking notes of my African moneys, one + coil of No. 6 wire was not to be found. Everybody had evidently fallen on + the ground to sleep, oblivious of the fact that on the coast there are + many dishonest prowlers at night. Soldiers were despatched to search + through the town and neighbourhood, and Jemadar Esau was apprised of our + loss, and stimulated to discover the animals by the promise of a reward. + Before night one of the missing donkeys was found outside the town + nibbling at manioc-leaves, but the other animal and the coil of wire were + never found. + </p> + <p> + Among my visitors this first day at Bagamoyo was Ali bin Salim, a brother + of the famous Sayd bin Salim, formerly Ras Kafilah to Burton and Speke, + and subsequently to Speke and Grant. His salaams were very profuse, and + moreover, his brother was to be my agent in Unyamwezi, so that I did not + hesitate to accept his offer of assistance. But, alas, for my white face + and too trustful nature! this Ali bin Salim turned out to be a snake in + the grass, a very sore thorn in my side. I was invited to his comfortable + house to partake of coffee. I went there: the coffee was good though + sugarless, his promises were many, but they proved valueless. Said he to + me, "I am your friend; I wish to serve you., what can I do for you?" + Replied I, "I am obliged to you, I need a good friend who, knowing the + language and Customs of the Wanyamwezi, can procure me the pagazis I need + and send me off quickly. Your brother is acquainted with the Wasungu + (white men), and knows that what they promise they make good. Get me a + hundred and forty pagazis and I will pay you your price." With unctuous + courtesy, the reptile I was now warmly nourishing; said, "I do not want + anything from you, my friend, for such a slight service, rest content and + quiet; you shall not stop here fifteen days. To-morrow morning I will come + and overhaul your bales to see what is needed." I bade him good morning, + elated with the happy thought that I was soon to tread the Unyanyembe + road. + </p> + <p> + The reader must be made acquainted with two good and sufficient reasons + why I was to devote all my energy to lead the Expedition as quickly as + possible from Bagamoyo. + </p> + <p> + First, I wished to reach Ujiji before the news reached Livingstone that I + was in search of him, for my impression of him was that he was a man who + would try to put as much distance as possible between us, rather than make + an effort to shorten it, and I should have my long journey for nothing. + </p> + <p> + Second, the Masika, or rainy season, would soon be on me, which, if it + caught me at Bagamoyo, would prevent my departure until it was over, which + meant a delay of forty days, and exaggerated as the rains were by all men + with whom I came in contact, it rained every day for forty days without + intermission. This I knew was a thing to dread; for I had my memory stored + with all kinds of rainy unpleasantnesses. For instance, there was the rain + of Virginia and its concomitant horrors—wetness, mildew, agues, + rheumatics, and such like; then there were the English rains, a miserable + drizzle causing the blue devils; then the rainy season of Abyssinia with + the flood-gates of the firmament opened, and an universal down-pour of + rain, enough to submerge half a continent in a few hours; lastly, there + was the pelting monsoon of India, a steady shut-in-house kind of rain. To + which of these rains should I compare this dreadful Masika of East Africa? + Did not Burton write much about black mud in Uzaramo? Well, a country + whose surface soil is called black mud in fine weather, what can it be + called when forty days' rain beat on it, and feet of pagazis and donkeys + make paste of it? These were natural reflections, induced by the + circumstances of the hour, and I found myself much exercised in mind in + consequence. + </p> + <p> + Ali bin Salim, true to his promise, visited my camp on the morrow, with a + very important air, and after looking at the pile of cloth bales, informed + me that I must have them covered with mat-bags. He said he would send a + man to have them measured, but he enjoined me not to make any bargain for + the bags, as he would make it all right. + </p> + <p> + While awaiting with commendable patience the 140 pagazis promised by Ali + bin Salim we were all employed upon everything that thought could suggest + needful for crossing the sickly maritime region, so that we might make the + transit before the terrible fever could unnerve us, and make us joyless. A + short experience at Bagamoya showed us what we lacked, what was + superfluous, and what was necessary. We were visited one night by a + squall, accompanied by furious rain. I had $1,500 worth of pagazi cloth in + my tent. In the morning I looked and lo! the drilling had let in rain like + a sieve, and every yard of cloth was wet. It occupied two days afterwards + to dry the cloths, and fold them again. The drill-tent was condemned, and + a No. 5 hemp-canvas tent at onto prepared. After which I felt convinced + that my cloth bales, and one year's ammunition, were safe, and that I + could defy the Masika. + </p> + <p> + In the hurry of departure from Zanzibar, and in my ignorance of how bales + should be made, I had submitted to the better judgment and ripe experience + of one Jetta, a commission merchant, to prepare my bales for carriage. + Jetta did not weigh the bales as he made them up, but piled the Merikani, + Kaniki, Barsati, Jamdani, Joho, Ismahili, in alternate layers, and roped + the same into bales. One or two pagazis came to my camp and began to + chaffer; they wished to see the bales first, before they would make a + final bargain. They tried to raise them up—ugh! ugh! it was of no + use, and withdrew. A fine Salter's spring balance was hung up, and a bale + suspended to the hook; the finger indicated 105 lbs. or 3 frasilah, which + was just 35 lbs. or one frasilah overweight. Upon putting all the bales to + this test, I perceived that Jetta's guess-work, with all his experience, + had caused considerable trouble to me. + </p> + <p> + The soldiers were set to work to reopen and repack, which latter task is + performed in the following manner:—We cut a doti, or four yards of + Merikani, ordinarily sold at Zanzibar for $2.75 the piece of thirty yards, + and spread out. We take a piece or bolt of good Merikani, and instead of + the double fold given it by the Nashua and Salem mills, we fold it into + three parts, by which the folds have a breadth of a foot; this piece forms + the first layer, and will weigh nine pounds; the second layer consists of + six pieces of Kaniki, a blue stuff similar to the blouse stuff of France, + and the blue jeans of America, though much lighter; the third layer is + formed of the second piece of Merikani, the fourth of six more pieces of + Kaniki, the fifth of Merikani, the sixth of Kaniki as before, and the + seventh and last of Merikani. We have thus four pieces of Merikani, which + weigh 36 lbs., and 18 pieces of Kaniki weighing also 36 lbs., making a + total of 72 lbs., or a little more than two frasilahs; the cloth is then + folded singly over these layers, each corner tied to another. A bundle of + coir-rope is then brought, and two men, provided with a wooden mallet for + beating and pressing the bale, proceed to tie it up with as much nicety as + sailors serve down rigging. + </p> + <p> + When complete, a bale is a solid mass three feet and a half long, a foot + deep, and a foot wide. Of these bales I had to convey eighty-two to + Unyanyembe, forty of which consisted solely of the Merikani and Kaniki. + The other forty-two contained the Merikani and coloured cloths, which + latter were to serve as honga or tribute cloths, and to engage another set + of pagazis from Unyanyembe to Ujiji, and from Ujiji to the regions beyond. + </p> + <p> + The fifteenth day asked of me by Ali bin Salim for the procuring of the + pagazis passed by, and there was not the ghost of a pagazi in my camp. I + sent Mabruki the Bullheaded to Ali bin Salim, to convey my salaams and + express a hope that he had kept his word. In half an hour's time Mabruki + returned with the reply of the Arab, that in a few days he would be able + to collect them all; but, added Mabruki, slyly, "Bana, I don't believe + him. He said aloud to himself, in my hearing, 'Why should I get the + Musungu pagazis? Seyd Burghash did not send a letter to me, but to the + Jemadar. Why should I trouble myself about him? Let Seyd Burghash write me + a letter to that purpose, and I will procure them within two days."' + </p> + <p> + To my mind this was a time for action: Ali bin Salim should see that it + was ill trifling with a white man in earnest to start. I rode down to his + house to ask him what he meant. + </p> + <p> + His reply was, Mabruki had told a lie as black as his face. He had never + said anything approaching to such a thing. He was willing to become my + slave—to become a pagazi himself. But here I stopped the voluble + Ali, and informed him that I could not think of employing him in the + capacity of a pagazi, neither could I find it in my heart to trouble Seyd + Burghash to write a direct letter to him, or to require of a man who had + deceived me once, as Ali bin Salim had, any service of any nature + whatsoever. It would be better, therefore, if Ali bin Salim would stay + away from my camp, and not enter it either in person or by proxy. + </p> + <p> + I had lost fifteen days, for Jemadar Sadur, at Kaole, had never stirred + from his fortified house in that village in my service, save to pay a + visit, after the receipt of the Sultan's letter. Naranji, custom-house + agent at Kaoie, solely under the thumb of the great Ludha Damji, had not + responded to Ludha's worded request that he would procure pagazis, except + with winks, nods, and promises, and it is but just stated how I fared at + the hands of Ali bin Salim. In this extremity I remembered the promise + made to me by the great merchant of Zanzibar—Tarya Topan—a + Mohammedan Hindi—that he would furnish me with a letter to a young + man named Soor Hadji Palloo, who was said to be the best man in Bagamoyo + to procure a supply of pagazis. + </p> + <p> + I despatched my Arab interpreter by a dhow to Zanzibar, with a very + earnest request to Capt. Webb that he would procure from Tarya Topan the + introductory letter so long delayed. It was the last card in my hand. + </p> + <p> + On the third day the Arab returned, bringing with him not only the letter + to Soor Hadji Palloo, but an abundance of good things from the + ever-hospitable house of Mr. Webb. In a very short time after the receipt + of his letter, the eminent young man Soor Hadji Palloo came to visit me, + and informed me he had been requested by Tarya Topan to hire for me one + hundred and forty pagazis to Unyanyembe in the shortest time possible. + This he said would be very expensive, for there were scores of Arabs and + Wasawabili merchants on the look out for every caravan that came in from + the interior, and they paid 20 doti, or 80 yards of cloth, to each pagazi. + Not willing or able to pay more, many of these merchants had been waiting + as long as six months before they could get their quota. "If you," + continued he, "desire to depart quickly, you must pay from 25 to 40 doti, + and I can send you off before one month is ended." In reply, I said, "Here + are my cloths for pagazis to the amount of $1,750, or 3,500 doti, + sufficient to give one hundred and forty men 25 doti each. The most I am + willing to pay is 25 doti: send one hundred and forty pagazis to + Unyanyembe with my cloth and wire, and I will make your heart glad with + the richest present you have ever received." With a refreshing naivete, + the "young man" said he did not want any present, he would get me my quota + of pagazis, and then I could tell the "Wasungu" what a good "young man" he + was, and consequently the benefit he would receive would be an increase of + business. He closed his reply with the astounding remark that he had ten + pagazis at his house already, and if I would be good enough to have four + bales of cloth, two bags of beads, and twenty coils of wire carried to his + house, the pagazis could leave Bagamoyo the next day, under charge of + three soldiers. + </p> + <p> + "For," he remarked, "it is much better and cheaper to send many small + caravans than one large one. Large caravans invite attack, or are delayed + by avaricious chiefs upon the most trivial pretexts, while small ones pass + by without notice." + </p> + <p> + The bales and the beads were duly carried to Soor Hadji Palloo's house, + and the day passed with me in mentally congratulating myself upon my good + fortune, in complimenting the young Hindi's talents for business, the + greatness and influence of Tarya Topan, and the goodness of Mr. Webb in + thus hastening my departure from Bagamoyo. I mentally vowed a handsome + present, and a great puff in my book, to Soor Hadji Palloo, and it was + with a glad heart that I prepared these soldiers for their march to + Unyayembe. + </p> + <p> + The task of preparing the first caravan for the Unyanyembe road informed + me upon several things that have escaped the notice of my predecessors in + East Africa, a timely knowledge of which would have been of infinite + service to me at Zanzibar, in the purchase and selection of sufficient and + proper cloth. + </p> + <p> + The setting out of the first caravan enlightened me also on the subject of + honga, or tribute. Tribute had to be packed by itself, all of choice + cloth; for the chiefs, besides being avaricious, are also very fastidious. + They will not accept the flimsy cloth of the pagazi, but a royal and + exceedingly high-priced dabwani, Ismahili, Rehani, or a Sohari, or dotis + of crimson broad cloth. The tribute for the first caravan cost $25. Having + more than one hundred and forty pagazis to despatch, this tribute money + would finally amount to $330 in gold, with a minimum of 25c. on each + dollar. Ponder on this, O traveller! I lay bare these facts for your + special instruction. + </p> + <p> + But before my first caravan was destined to part company with me, Soor + Hadji Palloo—worthy young man—and I were to come to a definite + understanding about money matters. The morning appointed for departure + Soor Hadji Palloo came to my hut and presented his bill, with all the + gravity of innocence, for supplying the pagazis with twenty-five doti each + as their hire to Unyanyembe, begging immediate payment in money. Words + fail to express the astonishment I naturally felt, that this sharp-looking + young man should so soon have forgotten the verbal contract entered into + between him and myself the morning previous, which was to the effect that + out of the three thousand doti stored in my tent, and bought expressly for + pagazi hire, each and every man hired for me as carriers from Bagamoyo to + Unyanyembe, should be paid out of the store there in my tent, when I asked + if he remembered the contract, he replied in the affirmative: his reasons + for breaking it so soon were, that he wished to sell his cloths, not mine, + and for his cloths he should want money, not an exchange. But I gave him + to comprehend that as he was procuring pagazis for me, he was to pay my + pagazis with my cloths; that all the money I expected to pay him, should + be just such a sum I thought adequate for his trouble as my agent, and + that only on those terms should he act for me in this or any other matter, + and that the "Musungu" was not accustomed to eat his words. + </p> + <p> + The preceding paragraph embodies many more words than are contained in it. + It embodies a dialogue of an hour, an angry altercation of half-an-hour's + duration, a vow taken on the part of Soor Hadji Palloo, that if I did not + take his cloths he should not touch my business, many tears, entreaties, + woeful penitence, and much else, all of which were responded to with, "Do + as I want you to do, or do nothing." Finally came relief, and a happy + ending. Soor Hadji Palloo went away with a bright face, taking with him + the three soldiers' posho (food), and honga (tribute) for the caravan. + Well for me that it ended so, and that subsequent quarrels of a similar + nature terminated so peaceably, otherwise I doubt whether my departure + from Bagamoyo would have happened so early as it did. While I am on this + theme, and as it really engrossed every moment of my time at Bagamoyo, I + may as well be more explicit regarding Boor Hadji Palloo and his + connection with my business. + </p> + <p> + Boor Hadji Palloo was a smart young man of business, energetic, quick at + mental calculation, and seemed to be born for a successful salesman. His + eyes were never idle; they wandered over every part of my person, over the + tent, the bed, the guns, the clothes, and having swung clear round, began + the silent circle over again. His fingers were never at rest, they had a + fidgety, nervous action at their tips, constantly in the act of feeling + something; while in the act of talking to me, he would lean over and feel + the texture of the cloth of my trousers, my coat, or my shoes or socks: + then he would feel his own light jamdani shirt or dabwain loin-cloth, + until his eyes casually resting upon a novelty, his body would lean + forward, and his arm was stretched out with the willing fingers. His jaws + also were in perpetual motion, caused by vile habits he had acquired of + chewing betel-nut and lime, and sometimes tobacco and lime. They gave out + a sound similar to that of a young shoat, in the act of sucking. He was a + pious Mohammedan, and observed the external courtesies and ceremonies of + the true believers. He would affably greet me, take off his shoes, enter + my tent protesting he was not fit to sit in my presence, and after being + seated, would begin his ever-crooked errand. Of honesty, literal and + practical honesty, this youth knew nothing; to the pure truth he was an + utter stranger; the falsehoods he had uttered during his short life seemed + already to have quenched the bold gaze of innocence from his eyes, to have + banished the colour of truthfulness from his features, to have transformed + him—yet a stripling of twenty—into a most accomplished rascal, + and consummate expert in dishonesty. + </p> + <p> + During the six weeks I encamped at Bagamoyo, waiting for my quota of men, + this lad of twenty gave me very much trouble. He was found out half a + dozen times a day in dishonesty, yet was in no way abashed by it. He would + send in his account of the cloths supplied to the pagazis, stating them to + be 25 paid to each; on sending a man to inquire I would find the greatest + number to have been 20, and the smallest 12. Soor Hadji Palloo described + the cloths to be of first-class quality, Ulyah cloths, worth in the market + four times more than the ordinary quality given to the pagazis, yet a + personal examination would prove them to be the flimsiest goods sold, such + as American sheeting 2 1/2 feet broad, and worth $2.75 per 30 yards a + piece at Zanzibar, or the most inferior Kaniki, which is generally sold at + $9 per score. He would personally come to my camp and demand 40 lbs. of + Sami-Sami, Merikani, and Bubu beads for posho, or caravan rations; an + inspection of their store before departure from their first camp from + Bagamoyo would show a deficiency ranging from 5 to 30 lbs. Moreover, he + cheated in cash-money, such as demanding $4 for crossing the Kingani Ferry + for every ten pagazis, when the fare was $2 for the same number; and an + unconscionable number of pice (copper coins equal in value to 3/4 of a + cent) were required for posho. It was every day for four weeks that this + system of roguery was carried out. Each day conceived a dozen new schemes; + every instant of his time he seemed to be devising how to plunder, until I + was fairly at my wits' end how to thwart him. Exposure before a crowd of + his fellows brought no blush of shame to his sallow cheeks; he would + listen with a mere shrug of the shoulders and that was all, which I might + interpret any way it pleased me. A threat to reduce his present had no + effect; a bird in the hand was certainly worth two in the bush for him, so + ten dollars' worth of goods stolen and in his actual possession was of + more intrinsic value than the promise of $20 in a few days, though it was + that of a white man. + </p> + <p> + Readers will of course ask themselves why I did not, after the first + discovery of these shameless proceedings, close my business with him, to + which I make reply, that I could not do without him unless his equal were + forthcoming, that I never felt so thoroughly dependent on any one man as I + did upon him; without his or his duplicate's aid, I must have stayed at + Bagamoyo at least six months, at the end of which time the Expedition + would have become valueless, the rumour of it having been blown abroad to + the four winds. It was immediate departure that was essential to my + success—departure from Bagamoyo—after which it might be + possible for me to control my own future in a great measure. + </p> + <p> + These troubles were the greatest that I could at this time imagine. I have + already stated that I had $1,750 worth of pagazis' clothes, or 3,500 doti, + stored in my tent, and above what my bales contained. Calculating one + hundred and forty pagazis at 25 doti each, I supposed I had enough, yet, + though I had been trying to teach the young Hindi that the Musungu was not + a fool, nor blind to his pilfering tricks, though the 3,500 doti were all + spent; though I had only obtained one hundred and thirty pagazis at 25 + doti each, which in the aggregate amounted to 3,200 doti: Soor Hadji + Palloo's bill was $1,400 cash extra. His plea was that he had furnished + Ulyah clothes for Muhongo 240 doti, equal in value to 960 of my doti, that + the money was spent in ferry pice, in presents to chiefs of caravans of + tents, guns, red broad cloth, in presents to people on the Mrima (coast) + to induce them to hunt up pagazis. Upon this exhibition of most ruthless + cheating I waxed indignant, and declared to him that if he did not run + over his bill and correct it, he should go without a pice. + </p> + <p> + But before the bill could be put into proper shape, my words, threats, and + promises falling heedlessly on a stony brain, a man, Kanjee by name, from + the store of Tarya Topan, of Zanzibar, had to come over, when the bill was + finally reduced to $738. Without any disrespect to Tarya Topan, I am + unable to decide which is the most accomplished rascal, Kanjee, or young + Soor Hadji Palloo; in the words of a white man who knows them both, "there + is not the splitting of a straw between them." Kanjee is deep and sly, + Soor Hadji Palloo is bold and incorrigible. But peace be to them both, may + their shaven heads never be covered with the troublous crown I wore at + Bagamoyo! + </p> + <p> + My dear friendly reader, do not think, if I speak out my mind in this or + in any other chapter upon matters seemingly trivial and unimportant, that + seeming such they should be left unmentioned. Every tittle related is a + fact, and to knew facts is to receive knowledge. + </p> + <p> + How could I ever recite my experience to you if I did not enter upon these + miserable details, which sorely distract the stranger upon his first + arrival? Had I been a Government official, I had but wagged my finger and + my quota of pagazis had been furnished me within a week; but as an + individual arriving without the graces of official recognition, armed with + no Government influence, I had to be patient, bide my time, and chew the + cud of irritation quietly, but the bread I ate was not all sour, as this + was. + </p> + <p> + The white men, Farquhar and Shaw, were kept steadily at work upon + water-proof tents of hemp canvas, for I perceived, by the premonitory + showers of rain that marked the approach of the Masika that an ordinary + tent of light cloth would subject myself to damp and my goods to mildew, + and while there was time to rectify all errors that had crept into my + plans through ignorance or over haste, I thought it was not wise to permit + things to rectify themselves. Now that I have returned uninjured in + health, though I have suffered the attacks of twenty-three fevers within + the short space of thirteen months; I must confess I owe my life, first, + to the mercy of God; secondly, to the enthusiasm for my work, which + animated me from the beginning to the end; thirdly, to having never ruined + my constitution by indulgence in vice and intemperance; fourthly, to the + energy of my nature; fifthly, to a native hopefulness which never died; + and, sixthly, to having furnished myself with a capacious water and damp + proof canvas house. And here, if my experience may be of value, I would + suggest that travellers, instead of submitting their better judgment to + the caprices of a tent-maker, who will endeavour to pass off a handsomely + made fabric of his own, which is unsuited to all climes, to use his own + judgment, and get the best and strongest that money will buy. In the end + it will prove the cheapest, and perhaps be the means of saving his life. + </p> + <p> + On one point I failed, and lest new and young travellers fall into the + same error which marred much of my enjoyment, this paragraph is written. + One must be extremely careful in his choice of weapons, whether for sport + or defence. A traveller should have at least three different kinds of + guns. One should be a fowling-piece, the second should be a + double-barrelled rifle, No. 10 or 12, the third should be a + magazine-rifle, for defence. For the fowling-piece I would suggest No. 12 + bore, with barrels at least four feet in length. For the rifle for larger + game, I would point out, with due deference to old sportsmen, of course, + that the best guns for African game are the English Lancaster and Reilly + rifles; and for a fighting weapon, I maintain that the best yet invented + is the American Winchester repeating rifle, or the "sixteen, shooter" as + it is called, supplied with the London Eley's ammunition. If I suggest as + a fighting weapon the American Winchester, I do not mean that the + traveller need take it for the purpose of offence, but as the beat means + of efficient defence, to save his own life against African banditti, when + attacked, a thing likely to happen any time. + </p> + <p> + I met a young man soon after returning from the interior, who declared his + conviction that the "Express," rifle was the most perfect weapon ever + invented to destroy African game. Very possibly the young man may be + right, and that the "Express" rifle is all he declares it to be, but he + had never practised with it against African game, and as I had never tried + it, I could not combat his assertion: but I could relate my experiences + with weapons, having all the penetrating powers of the "Express," and + could inform him that though the bullets penetrated through the animals, + they almost always failed to bring down the game at the first fire. On the + other hand, I could inform him, that during the time I travelled with Dr. + Livingstone the Doctor lent me his heavy Reilly rifle with which I seldom + failed to bring an animal or two home to the camp, and that I found the + Fraser shell answer all purposes for which it was intended. The feats + related by Capt. Speke and Sir Samuel Baker are no longer matter of + wonderment to the young sportsman, when he has a Lancaster or a Reilly in + his hand. After very few trials he can imitate them, if not excel their + Leeds, provided he has a steady hand. And it is to forward this end that + this paragraph is written. African game require "bone-crushers;" for any + ordinary carbine possesses sufficient penetrative qualities, yet has not + he disabling qualities which a gun must possess to be useful in the hands + of an African explorer. + </p> + <p> + I had not been long at Bagamoyo before I went over to Mussoudi's camp, to + visit the "Livingstone caravan" which the British Consul had despatched on + the first day of November, 1870, to the relief of Livingstone. The number + of packages was thirty-five, which required as many men to convey them to + Unyanyembe. The men chosen to escort this caravan were composed of + Johannese and Wahiyow, seven in number. Out of the seven, four were + slaves. They lived in clover here—thoughtless of the errand they had + been sent upon, and careless of the consequences. What these men were + doing at Bagamoyo all this time I never could conceive, except indulging + their own vicious propensities. It would be nonsense to say there were no + pagazis; because I know there were at least fifteen caravans which had + started for the interior since the Ramadan (December 15th, 1870). Yet + Livingstone's caravan had arrived at this little town of Bagamoyo November + 2nd, and here it had been lying until the 10th February, in all, 100 days, + for lack of the limited number of thirty-five pagazis, a number that might + be procured within two days through consular influence. + </p> + <p> + Bagamoyo has a most enjoyable climate. It is far preferable in every sense + to that of Zanzibar. We were able to sleep in the open air, and rose + refreshed and healthy each morning, to enjoy our matutinal bath in the + sea; and by the time the sun had risen we were engaged in various + preparations for our departure for the interior. Our days were enlivened + by visits from the Arabs who were also bound for Unyanyembe; by comical + scenes in the camp; sometimes by court-martials held on the refractory; by + a boxing-match between Farquhar and Shaw, necessitating my prudent + interference when they waxed too wroth; by a hunting excursion now and + then to the Kingani plain and river; by social conversation with the old + Jemadar and his band of Baluches, who were never tired of warning me that + the Masika was at hand, and of advising me that my best course was to + hurry on before the season for travelling expired. + </p> + <p> + Among the employees with the Expedition were two Hindi and two Goanese. + They had conceived the idea that the African interior was an El Dorado, + the ground of which was strewn over with ivory tusks, and they had clubbed + together; while their imaginations were thus heated, to embark in a little + enterprise of their own. Their names were Jako, Abdul Kader, Bunder + Salaam, and Aranselar; Jako engaged in my service, as carpenter and + general help; Abdul Kader as a tailor, Bunder Salaam as cook, and + Aranselar as chief butler. + </p> + <p> + But Aranselar, with an intuitive eye, foresaw that I was likely to prove a + vigorous employer, and while there was yet time he devoted most of it to + conceive how it were possible to withdraw from the engagement. He received + permission upon asking for it to go to Zanzibar to visit his friends. Two + days afterwards I was informed he had blown his right eye out, and + received a medical confirmation of the fact, and note of the extent of the + injury, from Dr. Christie, the physician to His Highness Seyd Burghash. + His compatriots I imagined were about planning the same thing, but a + peremptory command to abstain from such folly, issued after they had + received their advance-pay, sufficed to check any sinister designs they + may have formed. + </p> + <p> + A groom was caught stealing from the bales, one night, and the chase after + him into the country until he vanished out of sight into the jungle, was + one of the most agreeable diversions which occurred to wear away the + interval employed in preparing for the march. + </p> + <p> + I had now despatched four caravans into the interior, and the fifth, which + was to carry the boats and boxes, personal luggage, and a few cloth and + bead loads, was ready to be led by myself. The following is the order of + departure of the caravans. + </p> + <p> + 1871. Feb. 6.—Expedition arrived at Bagamoyo. + </p> + <p> + 1871. Feb. 18.—First caravan departs with twenty-four pagazis and + three soldiers. + </p> + <p> + 1871. Feb. 21.—Second caravan departs with twenty-eight pagazis, two + chiefs, and two soldiers. + </p> + <p> + 1871. Feb. 25.—Third caravan departs with twenty-two pagazis, ten + donkeys, one white man, one cook, and three soldiers. + </p> + <p> + 1871. March. 11.—Fourth caravan departs with fifty-five pagazis, two + chiefs, and three soldiers. + </p> + <p> + 1871. March. 21.—Fifth caravan departs with twenty-eight pagazis, + twelve soldiers, two white men, one tailor, one cook, one interpreter, one + gun-bearer, seventeen asses, two horses, and one dog. + </p> + <p> + Total number, inclusive of all souls, comprised in caravans connected with + the "New York Herald' Expedition," 192. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0005" id="link2HCH0005"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER V. — THROUGH UKWERE, UKAMI, AND UDOE TO USEGUHHA. + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Leaving Bagamoyo for the interior.—Constructing a Bridge.— + Our first troubles.—Shooting Hippopotami.—A first view of + the Game Land.—Anticipating trouble with the Wagogo.—The + dreadful poison—flies.—Unlucky adventures while hunting.— + The cunning chief of Kingaru.—Sudden death of my two + horses.—A terrible experience.—The city of the "Lion + Lord." +</pre> + <p> + On the 21st of March, exactly seventy-three days after my arrival at + Zanzibar, the fifth caravan, led by myself, left the town of Bagamoyo for + our first journey westward, with "Forward!" for its mot du guet. As the + kirangozi unrolled the American flag, and put himself at the head of the + caravan, and the pagazis, animals, soldiers, and idlers were lined for the + march, we bade a long farewell to the dolce far niente of civilised life, + to the blue ocean, and to its open road to home, to the hundreds of dusky + spectators who were there to celebrate our departure with repeated salvoes + of musketry. + </p> + <p> + Our caravan is composed of twenty-eight pagazis, including the kirangozi, + or guide; twelve soldiers under Capt. Mbarak Bombay, in charge of + seventeen donkeys and their loads; Selim, my interpreter, in charge of the + donkey and cart and its load; one cook and sub, who is also to be tailor + and ready hand for all, and leads the grey horse; Shaw, once mate of a + ship, now transformed into rearguard and overseer for the caravan, who is + mounted on a good riding-donkey, and wearing a canoe-like tepee and + sea-boots; and lastly, on, the splendid bay horse presented to me by Mr. + Goodhue, myself, called Bana Mkuba, "the big master," by my people—the + vanguard, the reporter, the thinker, and leader of the Expedition. + </p> + <p> + Altogether the Expedition numbers on the day of departure three white men, + twenty-three soldiers, four supernumeraries, four chiefs, and one hundred + and fifty-three pagazis, twenty-seven donkeys, and one cart, conveying + cloth, beads, and wire, boat-fixings, tents, cooking utensils and dishes, + medicine, powder, small shot, musket-balls, and metallic cartridges; + instruments and small necessaries, such as soap, sugar, tea, coffee, + Liebig's extract of meat, pemmican, candles, &c., which make a total + of 153 loads. The weapons of defence which the Expedition possesses + consist of one double-barrel breech-loading gun, smooth bore; one American + Winchester rifle, or "sixteen-shooter;" one Henry rifle, or + "sixteen-shooter;" two Starr's breech-loaders, one Jocelyn breech-loader, + one elephant rifle, carrying balls eight to the pound; two breech-loading + revolvers, twenty-four muskets (flint locks), six single-barrelled + pistols, one battle-axe, two swords, two daggers (Persian kummers, + purchased at Shiraz by myself), one boar-spear, two American axes 4 lbs. + each, twenty-four hatchets, and twenty-four butcher-knives. + </p> + <p> + The Expedition has been fitted with care; whatever it needed was not + stinted; everything was provided. Nothing was done too hurriedly, yet + everything was purchased, manufactured, collected, and compounded with the + utmost despatch consistent with efficiency and means. Should it fail of + success in its errand of rapid transit to Ujiji and back, it must simply + happen from an accident which could not be controlled. So much for the <i>personnel</i> + of the Expedition and its purpose, until its <i>point de mire</i> be + reached. + </p> + <p> + We left Bagamoyo the attraction of all the curious, with much eclat, and + defiled up a narrow lane shaded almost to twilight by the dense umbrage of + two parallel hedges of mimosas. We were all in the highest spirits. The + soldiers sang, the kirangozi lifted his voice into a loud bellowing note, + and fluttered the American flag, which told all on-lookers, "Lo, a + Musungu's caravan!" and my heart, I thought, palpitated much too quickly + for the sober face of a leader. But I could not check it; the enthusiasm + of youth still clung to me—despite my travels; my pulses bounded + with the full glow of staple health; behind me were the troubles which had + harassed me for over two months. With that dishonest son of a Hindi, Soor + Hadji Palloo, I had said my last word; of the blatant rabble, of Arabs, + Banyans, and Baluches I had taken my last look; with the Jesuits of the + French Mission I had exchanged farewells, and before me beamed the sun of + promise as he sped towards the Occident. Loveliness glowed around me. I + saw fertile fields, riant vegetation, strange trees—I heard the cry + of cricket and pee-wit, and sibilant sound of many insects, all of which + seemed to tell me, "At last you are started." What could I do but lift my + face toward the pure-glowing sky, and cry, "God be thanked!" + </p> + <p> + The first camp, Shamba Gonera, we arrived at in 1 hour 30 minutes, equal + to 3 1/4 miles. This first, or "little journey," was performed very well, + "considering," as the Irishman says. The boy Selim upset the cart not more + than three times. Zaidi, the soldier, only once let his donkey, which + carried one bag of my clothes and a box of ammunition, lie in a puddle of + black water. The clothes have to be re-washed; the ammunition-box, thanks + to my provision, was waterproof. Kamna perhaps knew the art of + donkey-driving, but, overjoyful at the departure, had sung himself into + oblivion of the difficulties with which an animal of the pure asinine + breed has naturally to contend against, such as not knowing the right + road, and inability to resist the temptation of straying into the depths + of a manioc field; and the donkey, ignorant of the custom in vogue amongst + ass-drivers of flourishing sticks before an animal's nose, and + misunderstanding the direction in which he was required to go, ran off at + full speed along an opposite road, until his pack got unbalanced, and he + was fain to come to the earth. But these incidents were trivial, of no + importance, and natural to the first "little journey" in East Africa. + </p> + <p> + The soldiers' point of character leaked out just a little. Bombay turned + out to be honest and trusty, but slightly disposed to be dilatory. Uledi + did more talking than work; while the runaway Ferajji and the + useless-handed Mabruki Burton turned out to be true men and staunch, + carrying loads the sight of which would have caused the strong-limbed + hamals of Stamboul to sigh. + </p> + <p> + The saddles were excellent, surpassing expectation. The strong hemp canvas + bore its one hundred and fifty-pounds' burden with the strength of bull + hide, and the loading and unloading of miscellaneous baggage was performed + with systematic despatch. In brief, there was nothing to regret—the + success of the journey proved our departure to be anything but premature. + </p> + <p> + The next three days were employed in putting the finishing touches to our + preparations for the long land journey and our precautions against the + Masika, which was now ominously near, and in settling accounts. + </p> + <p> + Shamba Gonera means Gonera's Field. Gonera is a wealthy Indian widow, well + disposed towards the Wasungu (whites). She exports much cloth, beads, and + wire into the far interior, and imports in return much ivory. Her house is + after the model of the town houses, with long sloping roof and projecting + eaves, affording a cool shade, under which the pagazis love to loiter. On + its southern and eastern side stretch the cultivated fields which supply + Bagamoyo with the staple grain, matama, of East Africa; on the left grow + Indian corn, and muhogo, a yam-like root of whitish colour, called by some + manioc; when dry, it is ground and compounded into cakes similar to army + slapjacks. On the north, just behind the house, winds a black quagmire, a + sinuous hollow, which in its deepest parts always contains water—the + muddy home of the brake-and-rush-loving "kiboko" or hippopotamus. Its + banks, crowded with dwarf fan-palm, tall water-reeds, acacias, and + tiger-grass, afford shelter to numerous aquatic birds, pelicans, &c. + After following a course north-easterly, it conflows with the Kingani, + which, at distance of four miles from Gonera's country-house; bends + eastward into the sea. To the west, after a mile of cultivation, fall and + recede in succession the sea-beach of old in lengthy parallel waves, + overgrown densely with forest grass and marsh reeds. On the spines of + these land-swells flourish ebony, calabash, and mango. + </p> + <p> + "Sofari—sofari leo! Pakia, pakia!"—"A journey—a journey + to day! Set out!—set out!" rang the cheery voice of the kirangozi, + echoed by that of my servant Selim, on the morning of the fourth day, + which was fixed for our departure in earnest. As I hurried my men to their + work, and lent a hand with energy to drop the tents, I mentally resolved + that, if my caravans a should give me clear space, Unyanyembe should be + our resting-place before three months expired. By 6 A.M. our early + breakfast was despatched, and the donkeys and pagazis were defiling from + Camp Gonera. Even at this early hour, and in this country place, there was + quite a collection of curious natives, to whom we gave the parting + "Kwaheri" with sincerity. My bay horse was found to be invaluable for the + service of a quarter-master of a transport-train; for to such was I + compelled to compare myself. I could stay behind until the last donkey had + quitted the camp, and, by a few minutes' gallop, I could put myself at the + head, leaving Shaw to bring up the rear. + </p> + <p> + The road was a mere footpath, and led over a soil which, though sandy, was + of surprising fertility, producing grain and vegetables a hundredfold, the + sowing and planting of which was done in the most unskilful manner. In + their fields, at heedless labor, were men and women in the scantiest + costumes, compared to which Adam and Eve, in their fig-tree apparel, must + have been <i>en grande tenue</i>. We passed them with serious faces, while + they laughed and giggled, and pointed their index fingers at this and + that, which to them seemed so strange and bizarre. + </p> + <p> + In about half an hour we had left the tall matama and fields of + water-melons, cucumbers, and manioc; and, crossing a reedy slough, were in + an open forest of ebony and calabash. In its depths are deer in plentiful + numbers, and at night it is visited by the hippopotami of the Kingani for + the sake of its grass. In another hour we had emerged from the woods, and + were looking down upon the broad valley of the Kingani, and a scene + presented itself so utterly different from what my foolish imagination had + drawn, that I felt quite relieved by the pleasing disappointment. Here was + a valley stretching four miles east and west, and about eight miles north + and south, left with the richest soil to its own wild growth of grass—which + in civilization would have been a most valuable meadow for the rearing of + cattle—invested as it was by dense forests, darkening the horizon at + all points of the compass, and folded in by tree-clad ridges. + </p> + <p> + At the sound of our caravan the red antelope bounded away to our right and + the left, and frogs hushed their croak. The sun shone hot, and while + traversing the valley we experienced a little of its real African fervour. + About half way across we came to a sluice of stagnant water which, + directly in the road of the caravan, had settled down into an oozy pond. + The pagazis crossed a hastily-constructed bridge, thrown up a long time + ago by some Washensi Samaritans. It was an extraordinary affair; rugged + tree limbs resting on very unsteady forked piles, and it had evidently + tested the patience of many a loaded Mnyamwezi, as it did those porters of + our caravan. Our weaker animals were unloaded, the puddle between Bagamoyo + and Genera having taught us prudence. But this did not occasion much + delay; the men worked smartly under Shaw's supervision. + </p> + <p> + The turbid Kingani, famous for its hippopotami, was reached in a short + time, and we began to thread the jungle along its right bank until we were + halted point-blank by a narrow sluice having an immeasurable depth of + black mud. The difficulty presented by this was very grave, though its + breadth was barely eight feet; the donkeys, and least of all the horses, + could not be made to traverse two poles like our biped carriers, neither + could they be driven into the sluice, where they would quickly founder. + The only available way of crossing it in safety was by means of a bridge, + to endure in this conservative land for generations as the handiwork of + the Wasungu. So we set to work, there being no help for it, with American + axes—the first of their kind the strokes of which ever rang in this + part of the world—to build a bridge. Be sure it was made quickly, + for where the civilized white is found, a difficulty must vanish. The + bridge was composed of six stout trees thrown across, over these were laid + crosswise fifteen pack saddles, covered again with a thick layer of grass. + All the animals crossed it safely, and then for a third time that morning + the process of wading was performed. The Kingani flowed northerly here, + and our course lay down its right bank. A half mile in that direction + through a jungle of giant reeds and extravagant climbers brought us to the + ferry, where the animals had to be again unloaded—verily, I wished + when I saw its deep muddy waters that I possessed the power of Moses with + his magic rod, or what would have answered my purpose as well, Aladdin's + ring, for then I could have found myself and party on the opposite side + without further trouble; but not having either of these gifts I issued + orders for an immediate crossing, for it was ill wishing sublime things + before this most mundane prospect. + </p> + <p> + Kingwere, the canoe paddler, espying us from his brake covert, on the + opposite side, civilly responded to our halloos, and brought his huge + hollowed tree skilfully over the whirling eddies of the river to where we + stood waiting for him. While one party loaded the canoe with our goods, + others got ready a long rape to fasten around the animals' necks, + wherewith to haul them through the river to the other bank. After seeing + the work properly commenced, I sat down on a condemned canoe to amuse + myself with the hippopotami by peppering their thick skulls with my No. 12 + smooth-bore. The Winchester rifle (calibre 44), a present from the Hon. + Edward Joy Morris—our minister at Constantinople—did no more + than slightly tap them, causing about as much injury as a boy's sling; it + was perfect in its accuracy of fire, for ten times in succession I struck + the tops of their heads between the ears. One old fellow, with the look of + a sage, was tapped close to the right ear by one of these bullets. Instead + of submerging himself as others had done he coolly turned round his head + as if to ask, "Why this waste of valuable cartridges on us?" The response + to the mute inquiry of his sageship was an ounce-and-a-quarter bullet from + the smooth-bore, which made him bellow with pain, and in a few moments he + rose up again, tumbling in his death agonies. As his groans were so + piteous, I refrained from a useless sacrifice of life, and left the + amphibious horde in peace. + </p> + <p> + A little knowledge concerning these uncouth inmates of the African waters + was gained even during the few minutes we were delayed at the ferry. When + undisturbed by foreign sounds, they congregate in shallow water on the + sand bars, with the fore half of their bodies exposed to the warm + sunshine, and are in appearance, when thus somnolently reposing, very like + a herd of enormous swine. When startled by the noise of an intruder, they + plunge hastily into the depths, lashing the waters into a yellowish foam, + and scatter themselves below the surface, when presently the heads of a + few reappear, snorting the water from their nostrils, to take a fresh + breath and a cautious scrutiny around them; when thus, we see but their + ears, forehead, eyes and nostrils, and as they hastily submerge again it + requires a steady wrist and a quick hand to shoot them. I have heard + several comparisons made of their appearance while floating in this + manner: some Arabs told me before I had seen them that they looked like + dead trees carried down the river; others, who in some country had seen + hogs, thought they resembled them, but to my mind they look more like + horses when swimming their curved necks and pointed ears, their wide eyes + and expanded nostrils, favor greatly this comparison. + </p> + <p> + At night they seek the shore, and wander several miles over the country, + luxuriating among its rank grasses. To within four miles of the town of + Bagamoyo (the Kingani is eight miles distant) their wide tracks are seen. + Frequently, if not disturbed by the startling human voice, they make a + raid on the rich corn-stalks of the native cultivators, and a dozen of + them will in a few minutes make a frightful havoc in a large field of this + plant. Consequently, we were not surprised, while delayed at the ferry, to + hear the owners of the corn venting loud halloos, like the rosy-cheeked + farmer boys in England when scaring the crows away from the young wheat. + </p> + <p> + The caravan in the meanwhile had crossed safely—bales, baggage, + donkeys, and men. I had thought to have camped on the bank, so as to amuse + myself with shooting antelope, and also for the sake of procuring their + meat, in order to save my goats, of which I had a number constituting my + live stock of provisions; but, thanks to the awe and dread which my men + entertained of the hippopotami, I was hurried on to the outpost of the + Baluch garrison at Bagamoyo, a small village called Kikoka, distant four + miles from the river. + </p> + <p> + The western side of the river was a considerable improvement upon the + eastern. The plain, slowly heaving upwards, as smoothly as the beach of a + watering-place, for the distance of a mile, until it culminated in a + gentle and rounded ridge, presented none of those difficulties which + troubled us on the other side. There were none of those cataclysms of mire + and sloughs of black mud and over-tall grasses, none of that miasmatic + jungle with its noxious emissions; it was just such a scene as one may + find before an English mansion—a noble expanse of lawn and sward, + with boscage sufficient to agreeably diversify it. After traversing the + open plain, the road led through a grove of young ebony trees, where + guinea-fowls and a hartebeest were seen; it then wound, with all the + characteristic eccentric curves of a goat-path, up and down a succession + of land-waves crested by the dark green foliage of the mango, and the + scantier and lighter-coloured leaves of the enormous calabash. The + depressions were filled with jungle of more or less density, while here + and there opened glades, shadowed even during noon by thin groves of + towering trees. At our approach fled in terror flocks of green pigeons, + jays, ibis, turtledoves, golden pheasants, quails and moorhens, with crows + and hawks, while now and then a solitary pelican winged its way to the + distance. + </p> + <p> + Nor was this enlivening prospect without its pairs of antelope, and + monkeys which hopped away like Australian kangaroos; these latter were of + good size, with round bullet heads, white breasts, and long tails tufted + at the end. + </p> + <p> + We arrived at Kikoka by 5 P.M., having loaded and unloaded our pack + animals four times, crossing one deep puddle, a mud sluice, and a river, + and performed a journey of eleven miles. + </p> + <p> + The settlement of Kikoka is a collection of straw huts; not built after + any architectural style, but after a bastard form, invented by indolent + settlers from the Mrima and Zanzibar for the purpose of excluding as much + sunshine as possible from the eaves and interior. A sluice and some wells + provide them with water, which though sweet is not particularly wholesome + or appetizing, owing to the large quantities of decayed matter which is + washed into it by the rains, and is then left to corrupt in it. A weak + effort has been made to clear the neighbourhood for providing a place for + cultivation, but to the dire task of wood-chopping and jungle-clearing the + settlers prefer occupying an open glade, which they clear of grass, so as + to be able to hoe up two or three inches of soil, into which they cast + their seed, confident of return. + </p> + <p> + The next day was a halt at Kikoka; the fourth caravan, consisting solely + of Wanyamwezi, proving a sore obstacle to a rapid advance. Maganga, its + chief, devised several methods of extorting more cloth and presents from + me, he having cost already more than any three chiefs together; but his + efforts were of no avail further than obtaining promises of reward if he + would hurry on to Unyanyembe so that I might find my road clear. + </p> + <p> + On the 2(7?)th, the Wanyamwezi having started, we broke camp soon after at + 7 am. The country was of the same nature as that lying between the Kingani + and Kikokaa park land, attractive and beautiful in every feature. + </p> + <p> + I rode in advance to secure meat should a chance present itself, but not + the shadow of vert or venison did I see. Ever in our front—westerly—rolled + the land-waves, now rising, now subsiding, parallel one with the other, + like a ploughed field many times magnified. Each ridge had its knot of + jungle or its thin combing of heavily foliaged trees, until we arrived + close to Rosako, our next halting place, when the monotonous wavure of the + land underwent a change, breaking into independent hummocks clad with + dense jungle. On one of these, veiled by an impenetrable jungle of thorny + acacia, rested Rosako; girt round by its natural fortification, + neighbouring another village to the north of it similarly protected. + Between them sank a valley extremely fertile and bountiful in its + productions, bisected by a small stream, which serves as a drain to the + valley or low hills surrounding it. + </p> + <p> + Rosako is the frontier village of Ukwere, while Kikoka is the + north-western extremity of Uzaramo. We entered this village, and occupied + its central portion with our tents and animals. A kitanda, or square light + bedstead, without valance, fringe, or any superfluity whatever, but + nevertheless quite as comfortable as with them, was brought to my tent for + my use by the village chief. The animals were, immediately after being + unloaded, driven out to feed, and the soldiers to a man set to work to + pile the baggage up, lest the rain, which during the Masika season always + appears imminent, might cause irreparable damage. + </p> + <p> + Among other experiments which I was about to try in Africa was that of a + good watch-dog on any unmannerly people who would insist upon coming into + my tent at untimely hours and endangering valuables. Especially did I wish + to try the effect of its bark on the mighty Wagogo, who, I was told by + certain Arabs, would lift the door of the tent and enter whether you + wished them or not; who would chuckle at the fear they inspired, and say + to you, "Hi, hi, white man, I never saw the like of you before; are there + many more like you? where do you come from?" Also would they take hold of + your watch and ask you with a cheerful curiosity, "What is this for, white + man?" to which you of course would reply that it was to tell you the hour + and minute. But the Mgogo, proud of his prowess, and more unmannerly than + a brute, would answer you with a snort of insult. I thought of a + watch-dog, and procured a good one at Bombay not only as a faithful + companion, but to threaten the heels of just such gentry. + </p> + <p> + But soon after our arrival at Rosako it was found that the dog, whose name + was "Omar," given him from his Turkish origin, was missing; he had strayed + away from the soldiers during a rain-squall and had got lost. I despatched + Mabruki Burton back to Kikoka to search for him. On the following morning, + just as we were about to leave Rosako, the faithful fellow returned with + the lost dog, having found him at Kikoka. + </p> + <p> + Previous to our departure on the morning after this, Maganga, chief of the + fourth caravan, brought me the unhappy report that three of his pagazis + were sick, and he would like to have some "dowa"—medicine. Though + not a doctor, or in any way connected with the profession, I had a + well-supplied medicine chest—without which no traveller in Africa + could live—for just such a contingency as was now present. On + visiting Maganga's sick men, I found one suffering from inflammation of + the lungs, another from the mukunguru (African intermittent). They all + imagined themselves about to die, and called loudly for "Mama!" "Mama!" + though they were all grown men. It was evident that the fourth caravan + could not stir that day, so leaving word with Magauga to hurry after me as + soon as possible, I issued orders for the march of my own. + </p> + <p> + Excepting in the neighbourhood of the villages which we have passed there + were no traces of cultivation. The country extending between the several + stations is as much a wilderness as the desert of Sahara, though it + possesses a far more pleasing aspect. Indeed, had the first man at the + time of the Creation gazed at his world and perceived it of the beauty + which belongs to this part of Africa, he would have had no cause of + complaint. In the deep thickets, set like islets amid a sea of grassy + verdure, he would have found shelter from the noonday heat, and a safe + retirement for himself and spouse during the awesome darkness. In the + morning he could have walked forth on the sloping sward, enjoyed its + freshness, and performed his ablutions in one of the many small streams + flowing at its foot. His garden of fruit-trees is all that is required; + the noble forests, deep and cool, are round about him, and in their shade + walk as many animals as one can desire. For days and days let a man walk + in any direction, north, south, east, and west, and he will behold the + same scene. + </p> + <p> + Earnestly as I wished to hurry on to Unyanyembe, still a heart-felt + anxiety about the arrival of my goods carried by the fourth caravan, + served as a drag upon me and before my caravan had marched nine miles my + anxiety had risen to the highest pitch, and caused me to order a camp + there and then. The place selected for it was near a long straggling + sluice, having an abundance of water during the rainy season, draining as + it does two extensive slopes. No sooner had we pitched our camp, built a + boma of thorny acacia, and other tree branches, by stacking them round our + camp, and driven our animals to grass; than we were made aware of the + formidable number and variety of the insect tribe, which for a time was + another source of anxiety, until a diligent examination of the several + species dispelled it. + </p> + <p> + As it was a most interesting hunt which I instituted for the several + specimens of the insects, I here append the record of it for what it is + worth. My object in obtaining these specimens was to determine whether the + genus <i>Glossina morsitans</i> of the naturalist, or the tsetse + (sometimes called setse) of Livingstone, Vardon, and Gumming, said to be + deadly to horses, was amongst them. Up to this date I had been nearly two + months in East Africa, and had as yet seen no tsetse; and my horses, + instead of becoming emaciated—for such is one of the symptoms of a + tsetse bite—had considerably improved in condition. There were three + different species of flies which sought shelter in my tent, which, + unitedly, kept up a continual chorus of sounds—one performed the + basso profondo, another a tenor, and the third a weak contralto. The first + emanated from a voracious and fierce fly, an inch long, having a ventral + capacity for blood quite astonishing. + </p> + <p> + This larger fly was the one chosen for the first inspection, which was of + the intensest. I permitted one to alight on my flannel pyjamas, which I + wore while en deshabille in camp. No sooner had he alighted than his + posterior was raised, his head lowered, and his weapons, consisting of + four hair-like styles, unsheathed from the proboscis-like bag which + concealed them, and immediately I felt pain like that caused by a + dexterous lancet-cut or the probe of a fine needle. I permitted him to + gorge himself, though my patience and naturalistic interest were sorely + tried. I saw his abdominal parts distend with the plenitude of the repast + until it had swollen to three times its former shrunken girth, when he + flew away of his own accord laden with blood. On rolling up my flannel + pyjamas to see the fountain whence the fly had drawn the fluid, I + discovered it to be a little above the left knee, by a crimson bead + resting over the incision. After wiping the blood the wound was similar to + that caused by a deep thrust of a fine needle, but all pain had vanished + with the departure of the fly. + </p> + <p> + Having caught a specimen of this fly, I next proceeded to institute a + comparison between it and the tsetse, as described by Dr. Livingstone on + pp. 56-57, 'Missionary Travels and Researches in South Africa' (Murray's + edition of 1868). The points of disagreement are many, and such as to make + it entirely improbable that this fly is the true tsetse, though my men + unanimously stated that its bite was fatal to horses as well as to + donkeys. A descriptive abstract of the tsetse would read thus: "Not much + larger than a common house-fly, nearly of the same brown colour as the + honey-bee. After-part of the body has yellow bars across it. It has a + peculiar buzz, and its bite is death to the horse, ox, and dog. On man the + bite has no effect, neither has it on wild animals. When allowed to feed + on the hand, it inserts the middle prong of three portions into which the + proboscis divides, it then draws the prong out a little way, and it + assumes a crimson colour as the mandibles come into brisk operation; a + slight itching irritation follows the bite." + </p> + <p> + The fly which I had under inspection is called mabunga by the natives. It + is much larger than the common housefly, fully a third larger than the + common honey-bee, and its colour more distinctly marked; its head is + black, with a greenish gloss to it; the after-part of the body is marked + by a white line running lengthwise from its junction with the trunk, and + on each side of this white line are two other lines, one of a crimson + colour, the other of a light brown. As for its buzz, there is no + peculiarity in it, it might be mistaken for that of a honey-bee. When + caught it made desperate efforts to get away, but never attempted to bite. + This fly, along with a score of others, attacked my grey horse, and bit it + so sorely in the legs that they appeared as if bathed in blood. Hence, I + might have been a little vengeful if, with more than the zeal of an + entomologist, I caused it to disclose whatever peculiarities its biting + parts possessed. + </p> + <p> + In order to bring this fly as life-like as possible before my readers, I + may compare its head to most tiny miniature of an elephant's, because it + has a black proboscis and a pair of horny antennae, which in colour and + curve resemble tusks. The black proboscis, however, the simply a hollow + sheath, which encloses, when not in the act of biting, four reddish and + sharp lancets. Under the microscope these four lancets differ in + thickness, two are very thick, the third is slender, but the fourth, of an + opal colour and almost transparent, is exceedingly fine. This last must be + the sucker. When the fly is about to wound, the two horny antennae are + made to embrace the part, the lancets are unsheathed, and on the instant + the incision is performed. This I consider to be the African "horse-fly." + </p> + <p> + The second fly, which sang the tenor notes more nearly resembled in size + and description the tsetse. It was exceedingly nimble, and it occupied + three soldiers nearly an hour to capture a specimen; and, when it was + finally caught, it stung most ravenously the hand, and never ceased its + efforts to attack until it was pinned through. It had three or four white + marks across the after-part of its body; but the biting parts of this fly + consisted of two black antennae and an opal coloured style, which folded + away under the neck. When about to bite, this style was shot out straight, + and the antennae embraced it closely. After death the fly lost its + distinctive white marks. Only one of this species did we see at this camp. + The third fly, called "chufwa," pitched a weak alto-crescendo note, was a + third larger than the house fly, and had long wings. If this insect sang + the feeblest note, it certainly did the most work, and inflicted the most + injury. Horses and donkeys streamed with blood, and reared and kicked + through the pain. So determined was it not to be driven before it obtained + its fill, that it was easily despatched; but this dreadful enemy to cattle + constantly increased in numbers. The three species above named are, + according to natives, fatal to cattle; and this may perhaps be the reason + why such a vast expanse of first-class pasture is without domestic cattle + of any kind, a few goats only being kept by the villagers. This fly I + subsequently found to be the "tsetse." + </p> + <p> + On the second morning, instead of proceeding, I deemed it more prudent to + await the fourth caravan. Burton experimented sufficiently for me on the + promised word of the Banyans of Kaole and Zanzibar, and waited eleven + months before he received the promised articles. As I did not expect to be + much over that time on my errand altogether, it would be ruin, absolute + and irremediable, should I be detained at Unyanyembe so long a time by my + caravan. Pending its arrival, I sought the pleasures of the chase. I was + but a tyro in hunting, I confess, though I had shot a little on the plains + of America and Persia; yet I considered myself a fair shot, and on game + ground, and within a reasonable proximity to game, I doubted not but I + could bring some to camp. + </p> + <p> + After a march of a mile through the tall grass of the open, we gained the + glades between the jungles. Unsuccessful here, after ever so much prying + into fine hiding-places and lurking corners, I struck a trail well + traversed by small antelope and hartebeest, which we followed. It led me + into a jungle, and down a watercourse bisecting it; but, after following + it for an hour, I lost it, and, in endeavouring to retrace it, lost my + way. However, my pocket-compass stood me in good stead; and by it I + steered for the open plain, in the centre of which stood the camp. But it + was terribly hard work—this of plunging through an African jungle, + ruinous to clothes, and trying to the cuticle. In order to travel quickly, + I had donned a pair of flannel pyjamas, and my feet were encased in canvas + shoes. As might be expected, before I had gone a few paces a branch of the + acacia horrida—only one of a hundred such annoyances—caught + the right leg of my pyjamas at the knee, and ripped it almost clean off; + succeeding which a stumpy kolquall caught me by the shoulder, and another + rip was the inevitable consequence. A few yards farther on, a prickly + aloetic plant disfigured by a wide tear the other leg of my pyjamas, and + almost immediately I tripped against a convolvulus strong as ratline, and + was made to measure my length on a bed of thorns. It was on all fours, + like a hound on a scent, that I was compelled to travel; my solar topee + getting the worse for wear every minute; my skin getting more and more + wounded; my clothes at each step becoming more and more tattered. Besides + these discomforts, there was a pungent, acrid plant which, apart from its + strong odorous emissions, struck me smartly on the face, leaving a burning + effect similar to cayenne; and the atmosphere, pent in by the density of + the jungle, was hot and stifling, and the perspiration transuded through + every pore, making my flannel tatters feel as if I had been through a + shower. When I had finally regained the plain, and could breathe free, I + mentally vowed that the penetralia of an African jungle should not be + visited by me again, save under most urgent necessity. + </p> + <p> + The second and third day passed without any news of Maganga. Accordingly, + Shaw and Bombay were sent to hurry him up by all means. On the fourth + morning Shaw and Bombay returned, followed by the procrastinating Maganga + and his laggard people. Questions only elicited an excuse that his men had + been too sick, and he had feared to tax their strength before they were + quite equal to stand the fatigue. Moreover he suggested that as they would + be compelled to stay one day more at the camp, I might push on to Kingaru + and camp there, until his arrival. Acting upon which suggestion I broke + camp and started for Kingaru, distant five miles. + </p> + <p> + On this march the land was more broken, and the caravan first encountered + jungle, which gave considerable trouble to our cart. Pisolitic limestone + cropped out in boulders and sheets, and we began to imagine ourselves + approaching healthy highlands, and as if to give confirmation to the + thought, to the north and north-west loomed the purple cones of Udoe, and + topmost of all Dilima Peak, about 1,500 feet in height above the sea + level. But soon after sinking into a bowl-like valley, green with tall + corn, the road slightly deviated from north-west to west, the country + still rolling before us in wavy undulations. + </p> + <p> + In one of the depressions between these lengthy land-swells stood the + village of Kingaru, with surroundings significant in their aspect of ague + and fever. Perhaps the clouds surcharged with rain, and the overhanging + ridges and their dense forests dulled by the gloom, made the place more + than usually disagreeable, but my first impressions of the sodden hollow, + pent in by those dull woods, with the deep gully close by containing pools + of stagnant water, were by no means agreeable. + </p> + <p> + Before we could arrange our camp and set the tents up, down poured the + furious harbinger of the Masika season in torrents sufficient to damp the + ardor and newborn love for East Africa I had lately manifested. However, + despite rain, we worked on until our camp was finished and the property + was safely stored from weather and thieves, and we could regard with + resignation the raindrops beating the soil into mud of a very tenacious + kind, and forming lakelets and rivers of our camp-ground. + </p> + <p> + Towards night, the scene having reached its acme of unpleasantness, the + rain ceased, and the natives poured into camp from the villages in the + woods with their vendibles. Foremost among these, as if in duty bound, + came the village sultan—lord, chief, or head—bearing three + measures of matama and half a measure of rice, of which he begged, with + paternal smiles, my acceptance. But under his smiling mask, bleared eyes, + and wrinkled front was visible the soul of trickery, which was of the + cunningest kind. Responding under the same mask adopted by this knavish + elder, I said, "The chief of Kingaru has called me a rich sultan. If I am + a rich sultan why comes not the chief with a rich present to me, that he + might get a rich return?" Said he, with another leer of his wrinkled + visage, "Kingaru is poor, there is no matama in the village." To which I + replied that since there was no matama in the village I would pay him half + a shukka, or a yard of cloth, which would be exactly equivalent to his + present; that if he preferred to call his small basketful a present, I + should be content to call my yard of cloth a present. With which logic he + was fain to be satisfied. + </p> + <p> + April 1st.—To-day the Expedition suffered a loss in the death of the + grey Arab horse presented by Seyd Burghash, Sultan of Zanzibar. The night + previous I had noticed that the horse was suffering. Bearing in mind what + has been so frequently asserted, namely, that no horses could live in the + interior of Africa because of the tsetse, I had him opened, and the + stomach, which I believed to be diseased, examined. Besides much + undigested matama and grass there were found twenty-five short, thick, + white worms, sticking like leeches into the coating of the stomach, while + the intestines were almost alive with the numbers of long white worms. I + was satisfied that neither man nor beast could long exist with such a mass + of corrupting life within him. + </p> + <p> + In order that the dead carcase might not taint the valley, I had it buried + deep in the ground, about a score of yards from the encampment. From such + a slight cause ensued a tremendous uproar from Kingaru—chief of the + village—who, with his brother-chiefs of neighbouring villages, + numbering in the aggregate two dozen wattled huts, had taken counsel upon + the best means of mulcting the Musungu of a full doti or two of Merikani, + and finally had arrived at the conviction that the act of burying a dead + horse in their soil without "By your leave, sir," was a grievous and + fineable fault. Affecting great indignation at the unpardonable omission, + he, Kingaru, concluded to send to the Musungu four of his young men to say + to him that "since you have buried your horse in my ground, it is well; + let him remain there; but you must pay me two doti of Merikani." For reply + the messengers were told to say to the chief that I would prefer talking + the matter over with himself face to face, if he would condescend to visit + me in my tent once again. As the village was but a stone's throw from our + encampment, before many minutes had elapsed the wrinkled elder made his + appearance at the door of my tent with about half the village behind him. + </p> + <p> + The following dialogue which took place will serve to illustrate the + tempers of the people with whom I was about to have a year's trading + intercourse: + </p> + <p> + White Man.—"Are you the great chief of Kingaru?" + </p> + <p> + Kingaru.—"Huh-uh. Yes." + </p> + <p> + W. M.—"The great, great chief?" + </p> + <p> + Kingaru.—"Huh-uh. Yes." + </p> + <p> + W. M.—"How many soldiers have you?" + </p> + <p> + Kingaru.—" Why?" + </p> + <p> + W. M.—"How many fighting men have you?" + </p> + <p> + Kingaru.—"None." + </p> + <p> + W. M.—"Oh! I thought you might have a thousand men with you, by your + going to fine a strong white man, who has plenty of guns and soldiers, two + doti for burying a dead horse." + </p> + <p> + Kingaru (rather perplexed).—"No; I have no soldiers. I have only a + few young men." + </p> + <p> + W. M.—"Why do you come and make trouble, then?" + </p> + <p> + Kingaru.—"It was not I; it was my brothers who said to me, 'Come + here, come here, Kingaru, see what the white man has done! Has he not + taken possession of your soil, in that he has put his horse into your + ground without your permission? Come, go to him and see by what right.' + Therefore have I come to ask you, who gave you permission to use my soil + for a burying-ground?" + </p> + <p> + W. M. "I want no man's permission to do what is right. My horse died; had + I left him to fester and stink in your valley, sickness would visit your + village, your water would become unwholesome, and caravans would not stop + here for trade; for they would say, 'This is an unlucky spot, let us go + away.' But enough said: I understand you to say that you do not want him + buried in your ground; the error I have fallen into is easily put right. + This minute my soldiers shall dig him out again, and cover up the soil as + it was before; and the horse shall be left where he died." (Then shouting + to Bombay.) "Ho! Bombay, take soldiers with jembes to dig my horse out of + the ground, drag him to where he died, and make everything ready for a + march to-morrow morning." + </p> + <p> + Kingaru, his voice considerably higher, and his head moving to and fro + with emotion, cries out, "Akuna, akuna, bana!"—"No, no, master! Let + not the white man get angry. The horse is dead, and now lies buried; let + him remain so, since he is already there, and let us be friends again." + </p> + <p> + The Sheikh of Kingaru being thus brought to his senses, we bid each other + the friendly "Kwaheri," and I was left alone to ruminate over my loss. + Barely half an hour had elapsed, it was 9 P.M., the camp was in a + semi-doze, when I heard deep groans issuing from one of the animals. Upon + inquiry as to what animal was suffering, I was surprised to hear that it + was my bay horse. With a bull's-eye lantern, I visited him, and perceived + that the pain was located in the stomach, but whether it was from some + poisonous plant he had eaten while out grazing, or from some equine + disease, I did not know. He discharged copious quantities of loose matter, + but there was nothing peculiar in its colour. The pain was evidently very + great, for his struggles were very violent. I was up all night, hoping + that it was but a temporary effect of some strange and noxious plant; but + at 6 o'clock the next morning, after a short period of great agony, he + also died; exactly fifteen hours after his companion. When the stomach was + opened, it was found that death was caused by the internal rupture of a + large cancer, which had affected the larger half of the coating of his + stomach, and had extended an inch or two up the larynx. The contents of + the stomach and intestines were deluged with the yellow viscous efflux + from the cancer. + </p> + <p> + I was thus deprived of both my horses, and that within the short space of + fifteen hours. With my limited knowledge of veterinary science, however, + strengthened by the actual and positive proofs obtained by the dissection + of the two stomachs, I can scarcely state that horses can live to reach + Unyanyembe, or that they can travel with ease through this part of East + Africa. But should I have occasion at some future day, I should not + hesitate to take four horses with me, though I should certainly endeavour + to ascertain previous to purchase whether they, were perfectly sound and + healthy, and to those travellers who cherish a good horse I would say, + "Try one," and be not discouraged by my unfortunate experiences. + </p> + <p> + The 1st, 2nd, and 3rd of April passed, and nothing had we heard or seen of + the ever-lagging fourth caravan. In the meanwhile the list of casualties + was being augmented. Besides the loss of this precious time, through the + perverseness of the chief of the other caravan, and the loss of my two + horses, a pagazi carrying boat-fixtures improved the opportunity, and + deserted. Selim was struck down with a severe attack of ague and fever, + and was soon after followed by the cook, then by the assistant cook and + tailor, Abdul Kader. Finally, before the third day was over, Bombay had + rheumatism, Uledi (Grant's old valet) had a swollen throat, Zaidi had the + flux, Kingaru had the mukunguru; Khamisi, a pagazi, suffered from a + weakness of the loins; Farjalla had a bilious fever; and before night + closed Makoviga was very ill. Out of a force of twenty-five men one had + deserted, and ten were on the sick list, and the presentiment that the + ill-looking neighbourhood of Kingaru would prove calamitous to me was + verified. + </p> + <p> + On the 4th April Maganga and his people appeared, after being heralded by + musketry-shots and horn-blowing, the usual signs of an approaching caravan + in this land. His sick men were considerably improved, but they required + one more day of rest at Kingaru. In the afternoon he came to lay siege to + my generosity, by giving details of Soor Hadji Palloo's heartless cheats + upon him; but I informed him, that since I had left Bagamoyo, I could no + longer be generous; we were now in a land where cloth was at a high + premium; that I had no more cloth than I should need to furnish food for + myself and men; that he and his caravan had cost me more money and trouble + than any three caravans I had, as indeed was the case. With this + counter-statement he was obliged to be content. But I again solved his + pecuniary doubts by promising that, if he hurried his caravan on to + Unyanyembe, he should have no cause of complaint. + </p> + <p> + The 5th of April saw the fourth caravan vanish for once in our front, with + a fair promise that, however fast we should follow, we should not see them + the hither side of Sinbamwenni. + </p> + <p> + The following morning, in order to rouse my people from the sickened + torpitude they had lapsed into, I beat an exhilarating alarum on a tin pan + with an iron ladle, intimating that a sofari was about to be undertaken. + This had a very good effect, judging from the extraordinary alacrity with + which it was responded to. Before the sun rose we started. The Kingaru + villagers were out with the velocity of hawks for any rags or refuse left + behind us. + </p> + <p> + The long march to Imbiki, fifteen miles, proved that our protracted stay + at Kingaru had completely demoralized my soldiers and pagazis. Only a few + of them had strength enough to reach Imbiki before night. The others, + attending the laden donkeys, put in an appearance next morning, in a + lamentable state of mind and body. Khamisi—the pagazi with the weak + loins—had deserted, taking with him two goats, the property tent, + and the whole of Uledi's personal wealth, consisting of his visiting + dish-dasheh—a long shirt of the Arabic pattern, 10 lbs. of beads, + and a few fine cloths, which Uledi, in a generous fit, had intrusted to + him, while he carried the pagazi's load, 70 lbs. of Bubu beads. This + defalcation was not to be overlooked, nor should Khamisi be permitted to + return without an effort to apprehend him. Accordingly Uledi and Ferajji + were despatched in pursuit while we rested at Imbiki, in order to give the + dilapidated soldiers and animals time to recruit. + </p> + <p> + On the 8th we continued our journey, and arrived at Msuwa. This march will + be remembered by our caravan as the most fatiguing of all, though the + distance was but ten miles. It was one continuous jungle, except three + interjacent glades of narrow limits, which gave us three breathing pauses + in the dire task of jungle travelling. The odour emitted from its fell + plants was so rank, so pungently acrid, and the miasma from its decayed + vegetation so dense, that I expected every moment to see myself and men + drop down in paroxysms of acute fever. Happily this evil was not added to + that of loading and unloading the frequently falling packs. Seven soldiers + to attend seventeen laden donkeys were entirely too small a number while + passing through a jungle; for while the path is but a foot wide, with a + wall of thorny plants and creepers bristling on each side, and projecting + branches darting across it, with knots of spikey twigs stiff as + spike-nails, ready to catch and hold anything above four feet in height, + it is but reasonable to suppose that donkeys standing four feet high, with + loads measuring across from bale to bale four feet, would come to grief. + This grief was of frequent recurrence here, causing us to pause every few + minutes for re-arrangements. So often had this task to be performed, that + the men got perfectly discouraged, and had to bespoken to sharply before + they set to work. By the time I reached Msuwa there was nobody with me and + the ten donkeys I drove but Mabruk the Little, who, though generally + stolid, stood to his work like a man. Bombay and Uledi were far behind, + with the most jaded donkeys. Shaw was in charge of the cart, and his + experiences were most bitter, as he informed me he had expended a whole + vocabulary of stormy abuse known to sailors, and a new one which he had + invented ex tempore. He did not arrive until two o'clock next morning, and + was completely worn out. + </p> + <p> + Another halt was fixed at Msuwa, that we and our animals might recuperate. + The chief of the village, a white man in everything but colour, sent me + and mine the fattest broad-tailed sheep of his flock, with five measures + of matama grain. The mutton was excellent, unapproachable. For his timely + and needful present I gave him two doti, and amused him with an exhibition + of the wonderful mechanism of the Winchester rifle, and my breechloading + revolvers. + </p> + <p> + He and his people were intelligent enough to comprehend the utility of + these weapons at an emergency, and illustrated in expressive pantomime the + powers they possessed against numbers of people armed only with spears and + bows, by extending their arms with an imaginary gun and describing a clear + circle. "Verily," said they, "the Wasungu are far wiser than the Washensi. + What heads they have! What wonderful things they make! Look at their + tents, their guns, their time-pieces, their clothes, and that little + rolling thing (the cart) which carries more than five men,—-que!" + </p> + <p> + On the 10th, recovered from the excessive strain of the last march, the + caravan marched out of Msuwa, accompanied by the hospitable villagers as + far as their stake defence, receiving their unanimous "Kwaheris." Outside + the village the march promised to be less arduous than between Imbiki and + Msuwa. After crossing a beautiful little plain intersected by a dry gully + or mtoni, the route led by a few cultivated fields, where the tillers + greeted us with one grand unwinking stare, as if fascinated. + </p> + <p> + Soon after we met one of those sights common in part of the world, to wit + a chain slave-gang, bound east. The slaves did not appear to be in any way + down-hearted on the contrary, they seemed imbued with the philosophic + jollity of the jolly servant of Martin Chuzzlewit. Were it not for their + chains, it would have been difficult to discover master from slave; the + physiognomic traits were alike—the mild benignity with which we were + regarded was equally visible on all faces. The chains were ponderous—they + might have held elephants captive; but as the slaves carried nothing but + themselves, their weight could not have been insupportable. + </p> + <p> + The jungle was scant on this march, and though in some places the packs + met with accidents, they were not such as seriously to retard progress. By + 10 A.M. we were in camp in the midst of an imposing view of green sward + and forest domed by a cloudless sky. We had again pitched our camp in the + wilderness, and, as is the custom of caravans, fired two shots to warn any + Washensi having grain to sell, that we were willing to trade. + </p> + <p> + Our next halting-place was Kisemo, distant but eleven miles from Msuwa, a + village situated in a populous district, having in its vicinity no less + than five other villages, each fortified by stakes and thorny abattis, + with as much fierce independence as if their petty lords were so many + Percys and Douglasses. Each topped a ridge, or a low hummock, with an + assumption of defiance of the cock-on-its-own-dunghill type. Between these + humble eminences and low ridges of land wind narrow vales which are + favored with the cultivation of matama and Indian corn. Behind the village + flows the Ungerengeri River, an impetuous stream during the Masika season, + capable of overflowing its steep banks, but in the dry season it subsides + into its proper status, which is that of a small stream of very clear + sweet water. Its course from Kisemo is south-west, then easterly; it is + the main feeder of the Kingani River. + </p> + <p> + The belles of Kisemo are noted for their vanity in brass wire, which is + wound in spiral rings round their wrists and ankles, and the varieties of + style which their hispid heads exhibit; while their poor lords, obliged to + be contented with dingy torn clouts and split ears, show what wide sway + Asmodeus holds over this terrestrial sphere—for it must have been an + unhappy time when the hard-besieged husbands finally gave way before their + spouses. Besides these brassy ornaments on their extremities, and the + various hair-dressing styles, the women of Kisemo frequently wear lengthy + necklaces, which run in rivers of colours down their bodies. + </p> + <p> + A more comical picture is seldom presented than that of one of these + highly-dressed females engaged in the homely and necessary task of + grinding corn for herself and family. The grinding apparatus consists of + two portions: one, a thick pole of hard wood about six feet long, + answering for a pestle; the other, a capacious wooden mortar, three feet + in height. + </p> + <p> + While engaged in setting his tent, Shaw was obliged to move a small flat + stone, to drive a peg into the ground. The village chief, who saw him do + it, rushed up in a breathless fashion, and replaced the stone instantly, + then stood on it in an impressive manner, indicative of the great + importance attached to that stone and location. Bombay, seeing Shaw + standing in silent wonder at the act, volunteered to ask the chief what + was the matter. The Sheikh solemnly answered, with a finger pointing + downward, "Uganga!" Whereupon I implored him to let me see what was under + the stone. With a graciousness quite affecting he complied. My curiosity + was gratified with the sight of a small whittled stick, which pinned fast + to the ground an insect, the cause of a miscarriage to a young female of + the village. + </p> + <p> + During the afternoon, Uledi and Ferajji, who had been despatched after the + truant Khamisi, returned with him and all the missing articles. Khamisi, + soon after leaving the road and plunging into the jungle, where he was + mentally triumphing in his booty, was met by some of the plundering + Washensi, who are always on the qui vive for stragglers, and + unceremoniously taken to their village in the woods, and bound to a tree + preparatory, to being killed. Khamisi said that he asked them why they + tied him up, to which they answered, that they were about to kill him, + because he was a Mgwana, whom they were accustomed to kill as soon as they + were caught. But Uledi and Ferajji shortly after coming upon the scene, + both well armed, put an end to the debates upon Khamisi's fate, by + claiming him as an absconding pagazi from the Musungu's camp, as well as + all the articles he possessed at the time of capture. The robbers did not + dispute the claim for the pagazi, goats, tent, or any other valuable found + with him, but intimated that they deserved a reward for apprehending him. + The demand being considered just, a reward to the extent of two doti and a + fundo, or ten necklaces of beads, was given. + </p> + <p> + Khamisi, for his desertion and attempted robbery, could not be pardoned + without first suffering punishment. He had asked at Bagamoyo, before + enlisting in my service, an advance of $5 in money, and had received it, + and a load of Bubu beads, no heavier than a pagazis load, had been given + him to carry; he had, therefore, no excuse for desertion. Lest I should + overstep prudence, however, in punishing him, I convened a court of eight + pagazis and four soldiers to sit in judgment, and asked them to give me + their decision as to what should be done. Their unanimous verdict was that + he was guilty of a crime almost unknown among the Wanyamwezi pagazis, and + as it was likely to give bad repute to the Wanyamwezi carriers, they + therefore sentenced him to be flogged with the "Great Master's" donkey + whip, which was accordingly carried out, to poor Khamisi's crying sorrow. + </p> + <p> + On the 12th the caravan reached Mussoudi, on the Ungerengeri river. + Happily for our patient donkeys this march was free from all the annoying + troubles of the jungle. Happily for ourselves also, for we had no more the + care of the packs and the anxiety about arriving at camp before night. The + packs once put firmly on the backs of our good donkeys, they marched into + camp—the road being excellent—without a single displacement or + cause for one impatient word, soon after leaving Kisemo. A beautiful + prospect, glorious in its wild nature, fragrant with its numerous flowers + and variety of sweetly-smelling shrubs, among which I recognised the wild + sage, the indigo plant, &c., terminated only at the foot of Kira Peak + and sister cones, which mark the boundaries between Udoe and Ukami, yet + distant twenty miles. Those distant mountains formed a not unfit + background to this magnificent picture of open plain, forest patches, and + sloping lawns—there was enough of picturesqueness and sublimity in + the blue mountains to render it one complete whole. Suppose a Byron saw + some of these scenes, he would be inclined to poetize in this manner: + </p> + <p> + Morn dawns, and with it stern Udoe's hills, Dark Urrugum's rocks, and + Kira's peak, Robed half in mist, bedewed with various rills, Arrayed in + many a dun and purple streak. + </p> + <p> + When drawing near the valley of Ungerengeri, granite knobs and + protuberances of dazzling quartz showed their heads above the reddish + soil. Descending the ridge where these rocks were prominent, we found + ourselves in the sable loam deposit of the Ungerengeri, and in the midst + of teeming fields of sugar-cane and matama, Indian corn, muhogo, and + gardens of curry, egg, and cucumber plants. On the banks of the + Ungerengeri flourished the banana, and overtopping it by seventy feet and + more, shot up the stately mparamusi, the rival in beauty of the Persian + chenar and Abyssinian plane. Its trunk is straight and comely enough for + the mainmast of a first, class frigate, while its expanding crown of + leafage is distinguished from all others by its density and vivid + greenness. There were a score of varieties of the larger kind of trees, + whose far-extending branches embraced across the narrow but swift river. + The depressions of the valley and the immediate neighbourhood of the river + were choked with young forests of tiger-grass and stiff reeds. + </p> + <p> + Mussoudi is situated on a higher elevation than the average level of the + village, and consequently looks down upon its neighbours, which number a + hundred and more. It is the western extremity of Ukwere. On the western + bank of the Ungerengeri the territory of the Wakami commences. We had to + halt one day at Mussoudi because the poverty of the people prevented us + from procuring the needful amount of grain. The cause of this scantiness + in such a fertile and populous valley was, that the numerous caravans + which had preceded us had drawn heavily for their stores for the + upmarches. + </p> + <p> + On the 14th we crossed the Ungerengeri, which here flows southerly to the + southern extremity of the valley, where it bends easterly as far as + Kisemo. After crossing the river here, fordable at all times and only + twenty yards in breadth, we had another mile of the valley with its + excessively moist soil and rank growth of grass. It then ascended into a + higher elevation, and led through a forest of mparamusi, tamarind, + tamarisk, acacia, and the blooming mimosa. This ascent was continued for + two hours, when we stood upon the spine of the largest ridge, where we + could obtain free views of the wooded plain below and the distant ridges + of Kisemo, which we had but lately left. A descent of a few hundred feet + terminated in a deep but dry mtoni with a sandy bed, on the other side of + which we had to regain the elevation we had lost, and a similar country + opened into view until we found a newly-made boma with well-built huts of + grass rear a pool of water, which we at once occupied as a halting-place + for the night. The cart gave us considerable trouble; not even our + strongest donkey, though it carried with ease on its back 196 lbs., could + draw the cart with a load of only 225 lbs. weight. + </p> + <p> + Early on the morning of the 15th we broke camp and started for Mikeseh. By + 8.30 A.M. we were ascending the southern face of the Kira Peak. When we + had gained the height of two hundred feet above the level of the + surrounding country, we were gratified with a magnificent view of a land + whose soil knows no Sabbath. + </p> + <p> + After travelling the spine of a ridge abutting against the southern slope + of Kira we again descended into the little valley of Kiwrima, the first + settlement we meet in Udoe, where there is always an abundant supply of + water. Two miles west of Kiwrima is Mikiseh. + </p> + <p> + On the 16th we reached Ulagalla after a few hours' march. Ulagalla is the + name of a district, or a portion of a district, lying between the + mountains of Uruguru, which bound it southerly, and the mountains of Udoe, + lying northerly and parallel with them, and but ten miles apart. The + principal part of the basin thus formed is called Ulagalla. + </p> + <p> + Muhalleh is the next settlement, and here we found ourselves in the + territory of the Waseguhha. On this march we were hemmed in by mountains—on + our left by those of Uruguru, on our right by those of Udoe and Useguhha—a + most agreeable and welcome change to us after the long miles of monotonous + level we had hitherto seen. When tired of looking into the depths of the + forest that still ran on either side of the road, we had but to look up to + the mountain's base, to note its strange trees, its plants and + vari-coloured flowers, we had but to raise our heads to vary this pleasant + occupation by observing the lengthy and sinuous spine of the mountains, + and mentally report upon their outline, their spurs, their projections and + ravines, their bulging rocks and deep clefts, and, above all, the dark + green woods clothing them from summit to base. And when our attention was + not required for the mundane task of regarding the donkeys' packs, or the + pace of the cautious-stepping pagazis, it was gratifying to watch the + vapours play about the mountain summits—to see them fold into fleecy + crowns and fantastic clusters, dissolve, gather together into a pall that + threatened rain, and sail away again before the brightening sun. + </p> + <p> + At Muhalleh was the fourth caravan under Maganga with three more sick men, + who turned with eager eyes to myself, "the dispenser of medicine," as I + approached. Salvos of small arms greeted me, and a present of rice and + ears of Indian corn for roasting were awaiting my acceptance; but, as I + told Maganga, I would have preferred to hear that his party were eight or + ten marches ahead. At this camp, also, we met Salim bin Rashid, bound + eastward, with a huge caravan carrying three hundred ivory tusks. This + good Arab, besides welcoming the new comer with a present of rice, gave me + news of Livingstone. He had met the old traveller at Ujiji, had lived in + the next but to him for two weeks, described him as looking old, with long + grey moustaches and beard, just recovered from severe illness, looking + very wan; when fully recovered Livingstone intended to visit a country + called Manyema by way of Marungu. + </p> + <p> + The valley of the Ungerengeri with Muhalleh exhibits wonderful fertility. + Its crops of matama were of the tallest, and its Indian corn would rival + the best crops ever seen in the Arkansas bottoms. The numerous + mountain-fed streams rendered the great depth of loam very sloppy, in + consequence of which several accidents occurred before we reached the + camp, such as wetting cloth, mildewing tea, watering sugar, and rusting + tools; but prompt attention to these necessary things saved us from + considerable loss. + </p> + <p> + There was a slight difference noticed in the demeanour and bearing of the + Waseguhha compared with the Wadoe, Wakami, and Wakwere heretofore seen. + There was none of that civility we had been until now pleased to note: + their express desire to barter was accompanied with insolent hints that we + ought to take their produce at their own prices. If we remonstrated they + became angry; retorting fiercely, impatient of opposition, they flew into + a passion, and were glib in threats. This strange conduct, so opposite to + that of the calm and gentle Wakwere, may be excellently illustrated by + comparing the manner of the hot-headed Greek with that of the cool and + collected German. Necessity compelled us to purchase eatables of them, + and, to the credit of the country and its productions, be it said, their + honey had the peculiar flavour of that of famed Hymettus. + </p> + <p> + Following the latitudinal valley of the Ungerengeri, within two hours on + the following morning we passed close under the wall of the capital of + Useguhha—Simbamwenni. The first view of the walled town at the + western foot of the Uruguru mountains, with its fine valley abundantly + beautiful, watered by two rivers, and several pellucid streams of water + distilled by the dew and cloud-enriched heights around, was one that we + did not anticipate to meet in Eastern Africa. In Mazanderan, Persia, such + a scene would have answered our expectations, but here it was totally + unexpected. The town may contain a population of 3,000, having about 1,000 + houses; being so densely crowded, perhaps 5,000 would more closely + approximate. The houses in the town are eminently African, but of the best + type of construction. The fortifications are on an Arabic Persic model—combining + Arab neatness with Persian plan. Through a ride of 950 miles in Persia I + never met a town outside of the great cities better fortified than + Simbamwenni. In Persia the fortifications were of mud, even those of + Kasvin, Teheran, Ispahan, and Shiraz; those of Simbamwenni are of stone, + pierced with two rows of loopholes for musketry. The area of the town is + about half a square mile, its plan being quadrangular. Well-built towers + of stone guard each corner; four gates, one facing each cardinal point, + and set half way between the several towers, permit ingress and egress for + its inhabitants. The gates are closed with solid square doors made of + African teak, and carved with the infinitesimally fine and complicated + devices of the Arabs, from which I suspect that the doors were made either + at Zanzibar or on the coast, and conveyed to Simbamwenni plank by plank; + yet as there is much communication between Bagamoyo and Simbamwenni, it is + just possible that native artisans are the authors of this ornate + workmanship, as several doors chiselled and carved in the same manner, + though not quite so elaborately, were visible in the largest houses. The + palace of the Sultan is after the style of those on the coast, with long + sloping roof, wide eaves, and veranda in front. + </p> + <p> + The Sultana is the eldest daughter of the famous Kisabengo, a name + infamous throughout the neighbouring countries of Udoe, Ukami, Ukwere, + Kingaru, Ukwenni, and Kiranga-Wanna, for his kidnapping propensities. + Kisabengo was another Theodore on a small scale. Sprung from humble + ancestry, he acquired distinction for his personal strength, his powers of + harangue, and his amusing and versatile address, by which he gained great + ascendency over fugitive slaves, and was chosen a leader among them. + Fleeing from justice, which awaited him at the hands of the Zanzibar + Sultan, he arrived in Ukami, which extended at that time from Ukwere to + Usagara, and here he commenced a career of conquest, the result of which + was the cession by the Wakami of an immense tract of fertile country, in + the valley of the Ungerengeri. On its most desirable site, with the river + flowing close under the walls, he built his capital, and called it + Simbamwenni, which means "The Lion," or the strongest, City. In old age + the successful robber and kidnapper changed his name of Kisabengo, which + had gained such a notoriety, to Simbamwenni, after his town; and when + dying, after desiring that his eldest daughter should succeed him, he + bestowed the name of the town upon her also, which name of Simbamwenni the + Sultana now retains and is known by. + </p> + <p> + While crossing a rapid stream, which, as I said before flowed close to the + walls, the inhabitants of Simbamwenni had a fine chance of gratifying + their curiosity of seeing the "Great Musungu," whose several caravans had + preceded him, and who unpardonably, because unlicensed, had spread a + report of his great wealth and power. I was thus the object of a universal + stare. At one time on the banks there were considerably over a thousand + natives going through the several tenses and moods of the verb "to stare," + or exhibiting every phase of the substantive, viz.—the stare + peremptory, insolent, sly, cunning, modest, and casual. The warriors of + the Sultana, holding in one hand the spear, the bow, and sheaf or musket, + embraced with the other their respective friends, like so many models of + Nisus and Euryalus, Theseus and Pirithous, Damon and Pythias, or Achilles + and Patroclus, to whom they confidentially related their divers opinions + upon my dress and colour. The words "Musungu kuba" had as much charm for + these people as the music of the Pied Piper had for the rats of Hamelin, + since they served to draw from within the walls across their stream so + large a portion of the population; and when I continued the journey to the + Ungerengeri, distant four miles, I feared that the Hamelin catastrophe + might have to be repeated before I could rid myself of them. But + fortunately for my peace of mind, they finally proved vincible under the + hot sun, and the distance we had to go to camp. + </p> + <p> + As we were obliged to overhaul the luggage, and repair saddles, as well as + to doctor a few of the animals, whose backs had by this time become very + sore, I determined to halt here two days. Provisions were very plentiful + also at Simbamwenni, though comparatively dear. + </p> + <p> + On the second day I was, for the first time, made aware that my + acclimatization in the ague-breeding swamps of Arkansas was powerless + against the mukunguru of East Africa. The premonitory symptoms of the + African type were felt in my system at 10 A.M. First, general lassitude + prevailed, with a disposition to drowsiness; secondly, came the spinal + ache which, commencing from the loins, ascended the vertebrae, and + extended around the ribs, until it reached the shoulders, where it settled + into a weary pain; thirdly came a chilliness over the whole body, which + was quickly followed by a heavy head, swimming eyes, and throbbing + temples, with vague vision, which distorted and transformed all objects of + sight. This lasted until 10 P.M., and the mukunguru left me, much + prostrated in strength. + </p> + <p> + The remedy, applied for three mornings in succession after the attack, was + such as my experience in Arkansas had taught me was the most powerful + corrective, viz., a quantum of fifteen grains of quinine, taken in three + doses of five grains each, every other hour from dawn to meridian—the + first dose to be taken immediately after the first effect of the purging + medicine taken at bedtime the night previous. I may add that this + treatment was perfectly successful in my case, and in all others which + occurred in my camp. After the mukunguru had declared itself, there was no + fear, with such a treatment of it, of a second attack, until at least some + days afterwards. + </p> + <p> + On the third day the camp was visited by the ambassadors of Her Highness + the Sultana of Simbamwenni, who came as her representatives to receive the + tribute which she regards herself as powerful enough to enforce. But they, + as well as Madame Simbamwenni, were informed, that as we knew it was their + custom to charge owners of caravans but one tribute, and as they + remembered the Musungu (Farquhar) had paid already, it was not fair that I + should have to pay again. The ambassadors replied with a "Ngema" (very + well), and promised to carry my answer back to their mistress. Though it + was by no means "very well" in fact, as it will be seen in a subsequent + chapter how the female Simbamwenni took advantage of an adverse fortune + which befell me to pay herself. With this I close the chapter of incidents + experienced during our transit across the maritime region. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0006" id="link2HCH0006"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER VI. — TO UGOGO. + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + A valley of despond, and hot-bed of malaria.—Myriads of + vermin.—The Makata swamp.—A sorrowful experience catching + a deserter.—A far-embracing prospect.—Illness of William + Farquhar.-Lake Ugombo.—A land of promise.—The great + Kisesa.—The plague of earwigs. +</pre> + <p> + The distance from Bagamoyo to Simbamwenni we found to be 119 miles, and + was accomplished in fourteen marches. But these marches, owing to + difficulties arising from the Masika season, and more especially to the + lagging of the fourth caravan under Maganga, extended to twenty-nine days, + thus rendering our progress very slow indeed—but a little more than + four miles a-day. I infer, from what I have seen of the travelling, that + had I not been encumbered by the sick Wanyamwezi porters, I could have + accomplished the distance in sixteen days. For it was not the donkeys that + proved recreant to my confidence; they, poor animals, carrying a weight of + 150 lbs. each, arrived at Simbamwenni in first-rate order; but it was + Maganga, composed of greed and laziness, and his weakly-bodied tribe, who + were ever falling sick. In dry weather the number of marches might have + been much reduced. Of the half-dozen of Arabs or so who preceded this + Expedition along this route, two accomplished the entire distance in eight + days. From the brief descriptions given of the country, as it day by day + expanded to our view, enough may be gleaned to give readers a fair idea of + it. The elevation of Simbamwenni cannot be much over 1,000 feet above the + level, the rise of the land having been gradual. It being the rainy + season, about which so many ominous statements were doled out to us by + those ignorant of the character of the country, we naturally saw it under + its worst aspect; but, even in this adverse phase of it, with all its + depth of black mud, its excessive dew, its dripping and chill grass, its + density of rank jungle, and its fevers, I look back upon the scene with + pleasure, for the wealth and prosperity it promises to some civilized + nation, which in some future time will come and take possession of it. A + railroad from Bagamoyo to Simbamwenni might be constructed with as much + ease and rapidity as, and at far less cost than the Union Pacific Railway, + whose rapid strides day by day towards completion the world heard of and + admired. A residence in this part of Africa, after a thorough system of + drainage had been carried out, would not be attended with more discomfort + than generally follows upon the occupation of new land. The temperature at + this season during the day never exceeded 85 degrees Fahrenheit. The + nights were pleasant—too cold without a pair of blankets for + covering; and, as far as Simbamwenni, they were without that pest which is + so dreadful on the Nebraska and Kansas prairies, the mosquito. The only + annoyances I know of that would tell hard on the settler is the determined + ferocity of the mabungu, or horse-fly; the chufwa, &c., already + described, which, until the dense forests and jungles were cleared, would + be certain to render the keeping of domestic cattle unremunerative. + </p> + <p> + Contrary to expectation the Expedition was not able to start at the end of + two days; the third and the fourth days were passed miserably enough in + the desponding valley of Ungerengeri. This river, small as it is in the + dry seasons, becomes of considerable volume and power during the Masika, + as we experienced to our sorrow. It serves as a drain to a score of peaks + and two long ranges of mountains; winding along their base, it is the + recipient of the cascades seen flashing during the few intervals of + sunlight, of all the nullahs and ravines which render the lengthy frontage + of the mountain slopes so rugged and irregular, until it glides into the + valley of Simbamwenni a formidable body of water, opposing a serious + obstacle to caravans without means to build bridges; added to which was an + incessant downfall of rain—such a rain as shuts people in-doors and + renders them miserable and unamiable—a real London rain—an + eternal drizzle accompanied with mist and fog. When the sun shone it + appeared but a pale image of itself, and old pagazis, wise in their + traditions as old whaling captains, shook their heads ominously at the + dull spectre, and declared it was doubtful if the rain would cease for + three weeks yet. + </p> + <p> + The site of the caravan camp on the hither side of the Ungerengeri was a + hot-bed of malaria, unpleasant to witness—an abomination to memory. + The filth of generations of pagazis had gathered innumerable hosts of + creeping things. Armies of black, white, and red ants infest the stricken + soil; centipedes, like worms, of every hue, clamber over shrubs and + plants; hanging to the undergrowth are the honey-combed nests of + yellow-headed wasps with stings as harmful as scorpions; enormous beetles, + as large as full-grown mice, roll dunghills over the ground; of all sorts, + shapes, sizes, and hues are the myriad-fold vermin with which the ground + teems; in short, the richest entomological collection could not vie in + variety and numbers with the species which the four walls of my tent + enclosed from morning until night. + </p> + <p> + On the fifth morning, or the 23rd April, the rain gave us a few hours' + respite, during which we managed to wade through the Stygian quagmire + reeking with noisomeness to the inundated river-bank. The soldiers + commenced at 5 A.M. to convey the baggage across from bank to bank over a + bridge which was the most rustic of the rustic kind. Only an ignorant + African would have been satisfied with its small utility as a means to + cross a deep and rapid body of water. Even for light-footed Wanyamwezi + pagazis it was anything but comfortable to traverse. Only a professional + tight-rope performer could have carried a load across with ease. To travel + over an African bridge requires, first, a long leap from land to the limb + of a tree (which may or may not be covered by water), followed by a long + jump ashore. With 70 lbs. weight on his back, the carrier finds it + difficult enough. Sometimes he is assisted by ropes extemporized from the + long convolvuli which hang from almost every tree, but not always, these + being deemed superfluities by the Washensi. + </p> + <p> + Fortunately the baggage was transferred without a single accident, and + though the torrent was strong, the donkeys were dragged through the flood + by vigorous efforts and much objurgation without a casualty. This + performance of crossing the Ungerengeri occupied fully five hours, though + energy, abuse, and fury enough were expended for an army. + </p> + <p> + Reloading and wringing our clothes dry, we set out from the horrible + neighbourhood of the river, with its reek and filth, in a northerly + direction, following a road which led up to easy and level ground. Two + obtruding hills were thus avoided on our left, and after passing them we + had shut out the view of the hateful valley. + </p> + <p> + I always found myself more comfortable and lighthearted while travelling + than when chafing and fretting in camp at delays which no effort could + avoid, and consequently I fear that some things, while on a march, may be + tinted somewhat stronger than their appearance or merit may properly + warrant. But I thought that the view opening before us was much more + agreeable than the valley of Simbamwenni with all its indescribable + fertility. It was a series of glades opening one after another between + forest clumps of young trees, hemmed in distantly by isolated peaks and + scattered mountains. Now and again, as we crested low eminences we caught + sight of the blue Usagara mountains, bounding the horizon westerly and + northerly, and looked down upon a vast expanse of plain which lay between. + </p> + <p> + At the foot of the lengthy slope, well-watered by bubbling springs and + mountain rills, we found a comfortable khambi with well-made huts, which + the natives call Simbo. It lies just two hours or five miles north-west of + the Ungerengeri crossing. The ground is rocky, composed principally of + quartzose detritus swept down by the constant streams. In the + neighbourhood of these grow bamboo, the thickest of which was about two + and a half inches in diameter; the "myombo," a very shapely tree, with a + clean trunk like an ash, the "imbite," with large, fleshy leaves like the + "mtamba," sycamore, plum-tree, the "ugaza," ortamarisk, and the "mgungu," + a tree containing several wide branches with small leaves clustered + together in a clump, and the silk-cotton tree. + </p> + <p> + Though there are no villages or settlements in view of Simbo Khambi, there + are several clustered within the mountain folds, inhabited by Waseguhha + somewhat prone to dishonest acts and murder. + </p> + <p> + The long broad plain visible from the eminences crossed between the + Ungerengeri and Simbo was now before us, and became known to sorrowful + memory subsequently, as the Makata Valley. The initial march was from + Simbo, its terminus at Rehenneko, at the base of the Usagara mountains, + six marches distant. The valley commences with broad undulations, covered + with young forests of bamboo, which grow thickly along the streams, the + dwarf fan-palm, the stately Palmyra, and the mgungu. These undulations + soon become broken by gullies containing water, nourishing dense crops of + cane reeds and broad-bladed grass, and, emerging from this district, wide + savannah covered with tall grass open into view, with an isolated tree + here and there agreeably breaking the monotony of the scene. The Makata is + a wilderness containing but one village of the Waseguhha throughout its + broad expanse. Venison, consequently, abounds within the forest clumps, + and the kudu, hartebeest, antelope, and zebra may be seen at early dawn + emerging into the open savannahs to feed. At night, the cyn-hyaena prowls + about with its hideous clamour seeking for sleeping prey, man or beast. + </p> + <p> + The slushy mire of the savannahs rendered marching a work of great + difficulty; its tenacious hold of the feet told terribly on men and + animals. A ten-mile march required ten hours, we were therefore compelled + to camp in the middle of this wilderness, and construct a new khambi, a + measure which was afterwards adopted by half a dozen caravans. + </p> + <p> + The cart did not arrive until nearly midnight, and with it, besides three + or four broken-down pagazis, came Bombay with the dolorous tale, that + having put his load—consisting of the property tent, one large + American axe, his two uniform coats, his shirts, beads and cloth, powder, + pistol, and hatchet—on the ground, to go and assist the cart out of + a quagmire, he had returned to the place where he had left it and could + not find it, that he believed that some thieving Washensi, who always lurk + in the rear of caravans to pick up stragglers, had decamped with it. Which + dismal tale told me at black midnight was not received at all graciously, + but rather with most wrathful words, all of which the penitent captain + received as his proper due. Working myself into a fury, I enumerated his + sins to him; he had lost a goat at Muhalleh, he had permitted Khamisi to + desert with valuable property at Imbiki; he had frequently shown culpable + negligence in not looking after the donkeys, permitting them to be tied up + at night without seeing that they had water, and in the mornings, when + about to march, he preferred to sleep until 7 o'clock, rather than wake up + early and saddle the donkeys, that we might start at 6 o'clock; he had + shown of late great love for the fire, cowering like a bloodless man + before it, torpid and apathetic; he had now lost the property-tent in the + middle of the Masika season, by which carelessness the cloth bales would + rot and become valueless; he had lost the axe which I should want at Ujiji + to construct my boat; and finally, he had lost a pistol and hatchet, and a + flaskful of the best powder. Considering all these things, how utterly + incompetent he was to be captain, I would degrade him from his office and + appoint Mabruki Burton instead. Uledi, also, following the example of + Bombay, instead of being second captain, should give no orders to any + soldiers in future, but should himself obey those given by Mabruki—the + said Mabruki being worth a dozen Bombays, and two dozen Uledis; and so he + was dismissed with orders to return at daylight to find the tent, axe, + pistol, powder, and hatchet. + </p> + <p> + The next morning the caravan, thoroughly fatigued with the last day's + exertions, was obliged to halt. Bombay was despatched after the lost + goods; Kingaru, Mabruki the Great, and Mabruki the Little were despatched + to bring back three doti-worth of grain, on which we were to subsist in + the wilderness. + </p> + <p> + Three days passed away and we were still at camp, awaiting, with what + patience we possessed, the return of the soldiers. In the meantime + provisions ran very low, no game could be procured, the birds were so + wild. Two days shooting procured but two potfuls of birds, consisting of + grouse, quail, and pigeons. Bombay returned unsuccessfully from his search + after the missing property, and suffered deep disgrace. + </p> + <p> + On the fourth day I despatched Shaw with two more soldiers, to see what + had become of Kingaru and the two Mabrukis. Towards night he returned + completely prostrated, with a violent attack of the mukunguru, or ague; + but bringing the missing soldiers, who were thus left to report for + themselves. + </p> + <p> + With most thankful hearts did we quit our camp, where so much anxiety of + mind and fretfulness had been suffered, not heeding a furious rain, which, + after drenching us all night, might have somewhat damped our ardor for the + march under other circumstances. The road for the first mile led over + reddish ground, and was drained by gentle slopes falling east and west; + but, leaving the cover of the friendly woods, on whose eastern margin we + had been delayed so long, we emerged into one of the savannahs, whose soil + during the rain is as soft as slush and tenacious as thick mortar, where + we were all threatened with the fate of the famous Arkansas traveller, who + had sunk so low in one of the many quagmires in Arkansas county, that + nothing but his tall "stove-pipe" hat was left visible. + </p> + <p> + Shaw was sick, and the whole duty of driving the foundering caravan + devolved upon myself. The Wanyamwezi donkeys stuck in the mire as if they + were rooted to it. As fast as one was flogged from his stubborn position, + prone to the depths fell another, giving me a Sisyphean labour, which was + maddening trader pelting rain, assisted by such men as Bombay and Uledi, + who could not for a whole skin's sake stomach the storm and mire. Two + hours of such a task enabled me to drag my caravan over a savannah one + mile and a half broad; and barely had I finished congratulating myself + over my success before I was halted by a deep ditch, which, filled with + rain-water from the inundated savannahs, had become a considerable stream, + breast-deep, flowing swiftly into the Makata. Donkeys had to be unloaded, + led through a torrent, and loaded again on the other bank—an + operation which consumed a full hour. + </p> + <p> + Presently, after straggling through a wood clump, barring our progress was + another stream, swollen into a river. The bridge being swept away, we were + obliged to swim and float our baggage over, which delayed us two hours + more. Leaving this second river-bank, we splashed, waded, occasionally + half-swimming, and reeled through mire, water-dripping grass and matama + stalks, along the left bank of the Makata proper, until farther progress + was effectually prevented for that day by a deep bend of the river, which + we should be obliged to cross the next day. + </p> + <p> + Though but six miles were traversed during that miserable day, the march + occupied ten hours. + </p> + <p> + Half dead with fatigue, I yet could feel thankful that it was not + accompanied by fever, which it seemed a miracle to avoid; for if ever a + district was cursed with the ague, the Makata wilderness ranks foremost of + those afflicted. Surely the sight of the dripping woods enveloped in + opaque mist, of the inundated country with lengthy swathes of tiger-grass + laid low by the turbid flood, of mounds of decaying trees and canes, of + the swollen river and the weeping sky, was enough to engender the + mukunguru! The well-used khambi, and the heaps of filth surrounding it, + were enough to create a cholera! + </p> + <p> + The Makata, a river whose breadth during the dry season is but forty feet, + in the Masika season assumes the breadth, depth, and force of an important + river. Should it happen to be an unusually rainy season, it inundates the + great plain which stretches on either side, and converts it into a great + lake. It is the main feeder of the Wami river, which empties into the sea + between the ports of Saadani and Whinde. About ten miles north-east of the + Makata crossing, the Great Makata, the Little Makata, a nameless creek, + and the Rudewa river unite; and the river thus formed becomes known as the + Wami. Throughout Usagara the Wami is known as the Mukondokwa. Three of + these streams take their rise from the crescent-like Usagara range, which + bounds the Makata plain south and south-westerly; while the Rudewa rises + in the northern horn of the same range. + </p> + <p> + So swift was the flow of the Makata, and so much did its unsteady bridge, + half buried in the water, imperil the safety of the property, that its + transfer from bank to bank occupied fully five hours. No sooner had we + landed every article on the other side, undamaged by the water, than the + rain poured down in torrents that drenched them all, as if they had been + dragged through the river. To proceed through the swamp which an hour's + rain had formed was utterly out of the question. We were accordingly + compelled to camp in a place where every hour furnished its quota of + annoyance. One of the Wangwana soldiers engaged at Bagamoyo, named + Kingaru, improved an opportunity to desert with another Mgwana's kit. My + two detectives, Uledi (Grant's valet), and Sarmean, were immediately + despatched in pursuit, both being armed with American breech-loaders. They + went about their task with an adroitness and celerity which augured well + for their success. In an hour they returned with the runaway, having found + him hidden in the house of a Mseguhha chief called Kigondo, who lived + about a mile from the eastern bank of the river, and who had accompanied + Uledi and Sarmean to receive his reward, and render an account of the + incident. + </p> + <p> + Kigondo said, when he had been seated, "I saw this man carrying a bundle, + and running hard, by which I knew that he was deserting you. We (my wife + and 1) were sitting in our little watch-hut, watching our corn; and, as + the road runs close by, this man was obliged to come close to us. We + called to him when he was near, saying, 'Master, where are you going so + fast? Are you deserting the Musungu, for we know you belong to him, since + you bought from us yesterday two doti worth of meat?' 'Yes,' said he, 'I + am running away; I want to get to Simbamwenni. If you will take me there, + I will give you a doti.' We said to him then, 'Come into our house, and we + will talk it over quietly. When he was in our house in an inner room, we + locked him up, and went out again to the watch; but leaving word with the + women to look out for him. We knew that, if you wanted him, you would send + askari (soldiers) after him. We had but lit our pipes when we saw two men + armed with short guns, and having no loads, coming along the road, looking + now and then on the ground, as if they were looking at footmarks. We knew + them to be the men we were expecting; so we hailed them, and said, + 'Masters, what are ye looking for?' \ They said, 'We are looking for a man + who has deserted our master. Here are his footsteps. If you have been long + in your hut you must have seen him, Can you tell us where he is?' We said, + 'yes; he is in our house. If you will come with us, we will give him up to + you; but your master must give us something for catching him.'" + </p> + <p> + As Kigondo had promised to deliver Kingaru up, there remained nothing + further to do for Uledi and Sarmean but to take charge of their prisoner, + and bring him and his captors to my camp on the western bank of the + Makata. Kingaru received two dozen lashes, and was chained; his captor a + doti, besides five khete of red coral beads for his wife. + </p> + <p> + That down-pour of rain which visited us the day we crossed the Makata + proved the last of the Masika season. As the first rainfall which we had + experienced occurred on the 23rd March, and the last on the 30th April, + its duration was thirty-nine days. The seers of Bagamoyo had delivered + their vaticinations concerning this same Masika with solemnity. "For forty + days," said they, "rain would fall incessantly;" whereas we had but + experienced eighteen days' rain. Nevertheless, we were glad that it was + over, for we were tired of stopping day after day to dry the bales and + grease the tools and ironware, and of seeing all things of cloth and + leather rot visibly before our eyes. + </p> + <p> + The 1st of May found us struggling through the mire and water of the + Makata with a caravan bodily sick, from the exertion and fatigue of + crossing so many rivers and wading through marshes. Shaw was still + suffering from his first mukunguru; Zaidi, a soldier, was critically ill + with the small-pox; the kichuma-chuma, "little irons," had hold of Bombay + across the chest, rendering him the most useless of the unserviceables; + Mabruk Saleem, a youth of lusty frame, following the example of Bombay, + laid himself down on the marshy ground, professing his total inability to + breast the Makata swamp; Abdul Kader, the Hindi tailor and adventurer—the + weakliest of mortal bodies—was ever ailing for lack of "force," as + he expressed it in French, i.e. "strength," ever indisposed to work, + shiftless, mock-sick, but ever hungry. "Oh! God," was the cry of my tired + soul, "were all the men of my Expedition like this man I should be + compelled to return." Solomon was wise perhaps from inspiration, perhaps + from observation; I was becoming wise by experience, and I was compelled + to observe that when mud and wet sapped the physical energy of the + lazily-inclined, a dog-whip became their backs, restoring them to a sound—some-times + to an extravagant activity. + </p> + <p> + For thirty miles from our camp was the Makata plain an extensive swamp. + The water was on an average one foot in depth; in some places we plunged + into holes three, four, and even five feet deep. Plash, splash, plash, + splash, were the only sounds we heard from the commencement of the march + until we found the bomas occupying the only dry spots along the line of + march. This kind of work continued for two days, until we came in sight of + the Rudewa river, another powerful stream with banks brimful of rushing + rain-water. Crossing a branch of the Rudewa, and emerging from the dank + reedy grass crowding the western bank, the view consisted of an immense + sheet of water topped by clumps of grass tufts and foliage of thinly + scattered trees, bounded ten or twelve miles off by the eastern front of + the Usagara mountain range. The acme of discomfort and vexation was + realized on the five-mile march from the Rudewa branch. As myself and the + Wangwana appeared with the loaded donkeys, the pagazis were observed + huddled on a mound. When asked if the mound was the camp, they replied + "No." "Why, then, do you stop here?"—"Ugh! water plenty!!" One drew + a line across his loins to indicate the depth of water before us, another + drew a line across his chest, another across his throat another held his + hand over his head, by which he meant that we should have to swim. Swim + five miles through a reedy marsh! It was impossible; it was also + impossible that such varied accounts could all be correct. Without + hesitation, therefore, I ordered the Wangwana to proceed with the animals. + After three hours of splashing through four feet of water we reached dry + land, and had traversed the swamp of Makata. But not without the swamp + with its horrors having left a durable impression upon our minds; no one + was disposed to forget its fatigues, nor the nausea of travel which it + almost engendered. Subsequently, we had to remember its passage still more + vividly, and to regret that we had undertaken the journey during the + Masika season, when the animals died from this date by twos and threes, + almost every day, until but five sickly worn-out beasts remained; when the + Wangwana, soldiers, and pagazis sickened of diseases innumerable; when I + myself was finally compelled to lie a-bed with an attack of acute + dysentery which brought me to the verge of the grave. I suffered more, + perhaps, than I might have done had I taken the proper medicine, but my + over-confidence in that compound, called "Collis Brown's Chlorodyne," + delayed the cure which ultimately resulted from a judicious use of Dover's + powder. In no one single case of diarrhoea or acute dysentery had this + "Chlorodyne," about which so much has been said, and written, any effect + of lessening the attack whatever, though I used three bottles. To the + dysentery contracted during, the transit of the Makata swamp, only two + fell victims, and those were a pagazi and my poor little dog "Omar," my + companion from India. + </p> + <p> + The only tree of any prominence in the Makata valley was the Palmyra palm + (Borassus flabelliformis), and this grew in some places in numbers + sufficient to be called a grove; the fruit was not ripe while we passed, + otherwise we might have enjoyed it as a novelty. The other vegetation + consisted of the several species of thorn bush, and the graceful + parachute-topped and ever-green mimosa. + </p> + <p> + The 4th of May we were ascending a gentle slope towards the important + village of Rehenneko, the first village near to which we encamped in + Usagara. It lay at the foot of the mountain, and its plenitude and + mountain air promised us comfort and health. It was a square, compact + village, surrounded by a thick wall of mud, enclosing cone-topped huts, + roofed with bamboo and holcus-stalks; and contained a population of about + a thousand souls. It has several wealthy and populous neighbours, whose + inhabitants are independent enough in their manner, but not unpleasantly + so. The streams are of the purest water, fresh, and pellucid as crystal, + bubbling over round pebbles and clean gravel, with a music delightful to + hear to the traveller in search of such a sweetly potable element. + </p> + <p> + The bamboo grows to serviceable size in the neighbourhood of Rehenneko, + strong enough for tent and banghy poles; and in numbers sufficient to + supply an army. The mountain slopes are densely wooded with trees that + might supply very good timber for building purposes. + </p> + <p> + We rested four days at this pleasant spot, to recruit ourselves, and to + allow the sick and feeble time to recover a little before testing their + ability in the ascent of the Usagara mountains. + </p> + <p> + The 8th of May saw us with our terribly jaded men and animals winding up + the steep slopes of the first line of hills; gaining the summit of which + we obtained a view remarkably grand, which exhibited as in a master + picture the broad valley of the Makata, with its swift streams like so + many cords of silver, as the sunshine played on the unshadowed reaches of + water, with its thousands of graceful palms adding not a little to the + charm of the scene, with the great wall of the Uruguru and Uswapanga + mountains dimly blue, but sublime in their loftiness and immensity—forming + a fit background to such an extensive, far-embracing prospect. + </p> + <p> + Turning our faces west, we found ourselves in a mountain world, fold + rising above fold, peak behind peak, cone jostling cone; away to the + north, to the west, to the south, the mountain tops rolled like so many + vitrified waves; not one adust or arid spot was visible in all this scene. + The diorama had no sudden changes or striking contrasts, for a universal + forest of green trees clothed every peak, cone, and summit. + </p> + <p> + To the men this first day's march through the mountain region of Usagara + was an agreeable interlude after the successive journey over the flats and + heavy undulations of the maritime region, but to the loaded and enfeebled + animals it was most trying. We were minus two by the time we had arrived + at our camp, but seven miles from Rehenneko, our first instalment of the + debt we owed to Makata. Water, sweet and clear, was abundant in the deep + hollows of the mountains, flowing sometimes over beds of solid granite, + sometimes over a rich red sandstone, whose soft substance was soon + penetrated by the aqueous element, and whose particles were swept away + constantly to enrich the valley below; and in other ravines it dashed, and + roared, miniature thunder, as it leaped over granite boulders and quartz + rock. + </p> + <p> + The 9th of May, after another such an up-and-down course, ascending hills + and descending into the twilight depths of deepening valleys, we came + suddenly upon the Mukondokwa, and its narrow pent-up valley crowded with + rank reedy grass, cane, and thorny bushes; and rugged tamarisk which + grappled for existence with monster convolvuli, winding their coils around + their trunks with such tenacity and strength that the tamarisk seemed + grown but for their support. + </p> + <p> + The valley was barely a quarter of a mile broad in some places—at + others it widened to about a mile. The hills on either side shot up into + precipitous slopes, clothed with mimosa, acacia, and tamarisk, enclosing a + river and valley whose curves and folds were as various as a serpent's. + </p> + <p> + Shortly after debouching into the Mukondokwa valley, we struck the road + traversed by Captains Buxton and Speke in 1857, between Mbumi and + Kadetamare (the latter place should be called Misonghi, Kadetamare being + but the name of a chief). After following the left bank of the Mukondokwa, + during which our route diverged to every point from south-east to west, + north and northeast, for about an hour, we came to the ford. Beyond the + ford, a short half-hour's march, we came to Kiora. + </p> + <p> + At this filthy village of Kiora, which was well-grounded with goat-dung, + and peopled with a wonderful number of children for a hamlet that did not + number twenty families, with a hot sun pouring on the limited open space, + with a fury that exceeded 128 degrees Fahrenheit; which swarmed with flies + and insects of known and unknown species; I found, as I had been + previously informed, the third caravan, which had started out of Bagamoyo + so well fitted and supplied. The leader, who was no other than the white + man Farquhar, was sick-a-bed with swollen legs (Bright's disease), unable + to move. + </p> + <p> + As he heard my voice, Farquhar staggered out of his tent, so changed from + my spruce mate who started from Bagamoyo, that I hardly knew him at first. + His legs were ponderous, elephantine, since his leg-illness was of + elephantiasis, or dropsy. His face was of a deathly pallor, for he had not + been out of his tent for two weeks. + </p> + <p> + A breezy hill, overlooking the village of Kiora, was chosen by me for my + camping-ground, and as soon as the tents were pitched, the animals + attended to, and a boma made of thorn bushes, Farquhar was carried up by + four men into my tent. Upon being questioned as to the cause of his + illness, he said he did not know what had caused it. He had no pain, he + thought, anywhere. I asked, "Do you not sometimes feel pain on the right + side?"—"Yes, I think I do; but I don't know."—"Nor over the + left nipple sometimes—a quick throbbing, with a shortness of + breath?"—"Yes, I think I have. I know I breathe quick sometimes." He + said his only trouble was in the legs, which were swollen to an immense + size. Though he had a sound appetite, he yet felt weak in the legs. + </p> + <p> + From the scant information of the disease and its peculiarities, as given + by Farquhar himself, I could only make out, by studying a little medical + book I had with me, that "a swelling of the legs, and sometimes of the + body, might result from either heart, liver, or kidney disease." But I did + not know to what to ascribe the disease, unless it was to elephantiasis—a + disease most common in Zanzibar; nor did I know how to treat it in a man + who, could not tell me whether he felt pain in his head or in his back, in + his feet or in his chest. + </p> + <p> + It was therefore fortunate for me that I overtook him at Kiora; though he + was about to prove a sore incumbrance to me, for he was not able to walk, + and the donkey-carriage, after the rough experience of the Makata valley, + was failing. I could not possibly leave him at Kiora, death would soon + overtake him there; but how long I could convey a man in such a state, + through a country devoid of carriage, was a question to be resolved by + circumstances. + </p> + <p> + On the 11th of May, the third and fifth caravans, now united, followed up + the right bank of the Mukondokwa, through fields of holcus, the great + Mukondokwa ranges rising in higher altitude as we proceeded west, and + enfolding us in the narrow river valley round about. We left Muniyi + Usagara on our right, and soon after found hill-spurs athwart our road, + which we were obliged to ascend and descend. + </p> + <p> + A march of eight miles from the ford of Misonghi brought us to another + ford of the Mukondokwa, where we bid a long adieu to Burton's road, which + led up to the Goma pass and up the steep slopes of Rubeho. Our road left + the right bank and followed the left over a country quite the reverse of + the Mukondokwa Valley, enclosed between mountain ranges. Fertile soils and + spontaneous vegetation, reeking with miasma and overpowering from their + odour, we had exchanged for a drouthy wilderness of aloetic and cactaceous + plants, where the kolquall and several thorn bushes grew paramount. + </p> + <p> + Instead of the tree-clad heights, slopes and valleys, instead of + cultivated fields, we saw now the confines of uninhabited wilderness. The + hill-tops were bared of their bosky crowns, and revealed their rocky + natures bleached white by rain and sun. Nguru Peak, the loftiest of the + Usagara cones, stood right shoulderwards of us as we ascended the long + slope of dun-grey soil which rose beyond the brown Mukondokwa on the left. + </p> + <p> + At the distance of two miles from the last ford, we found a neat khambi, + situated close to the river, where it first broke into a furious rapid. + </p> + <p> + The next morning the caravan was preparing for the march, when I was + informed that the "Bana Mdogo"—little master—Shaw, had not yet + arrived with the cart, and the men in charge of it. Late the previous + night I had despatched one donkey for Shaw, who had said he was too ill to + walk, and another for the load that was on the cart; and had retired + satisfied that they would soon arrive. My conclusion, when I learned in + the morning that the people had not yet come in, was that Shaw was not + aware that for five days we should have to march through a wilderness + totally uninhabited. I therefore despatched Chowpereh, a Mgwana soldier, + with the following note to him:—"You will, upon receipt of this + order pitch the cart into the nearest ravine, gully, or river, as well as + all the extra pack saddles; and come at once, for God's sake, for we must + not starve here!" + </p> + <p> + One, two, three, and four hours were passed by me in the utmost + impatience, waiting, but in vain, for Shaw. Having a long march before us, + I could wait no longer, but went to meet his party myself. About a quarter + of mile from the ford I met the van of the laggards—stout burly + Chowpereh—and, O cartmakers, listen! he carried the cart on his head—wheels, + shafts, body, axle, and all complete; he having found that carrying it was + much easier than drawing it. The sight was such a damper to my regard for + it as an experiment, that the cart was wheeled into the depths of the tall + reeds, and there left. The central figure was Shaw himself, riding at a + gait which seemed to leave it doubtful on my mind whether he or his animal + felt most sleepy. Upon expostulating with him for keeping the caravan so + long waiting when there was a march on hand, in a most peculiar voice—which + he always assumed when disposed to be ugly-tempered—he said he had + done the best he could; but as I had seen the solemn pace at which he + rode, I felt dubious about his best endeavours; and of course there was a + little scene, but the young European mtongi of an East African expedition + must needs sup with the fellows he has chosen. + </p> + <p> + We arrived at Madete at 4 P.M., minus two donkeys, which had stretched + their weary limbs in death. We had crossed the Mukondokwa about 3 P.M., + and after taking its bearings and course, I made sure that its rise took + place near a group of mountains about forty miles north by west of Nguru + Peak. Our road led W.N.W., and at this place finally diverged from the + river. + </p> + <p> + On the 14th, after a march of seven miles over hills whose sandstone and + granite formation cropped visibly here and there above the surface, whose + stony and dry aspect seemed reflected in every bush and plant, and having + gained an altitude of about eight hundred feet above the flow of the + Mukondokwa, we sighted the Lake of Ugombo—a grey sheet of water + lying directly at the foot of the hill, from whose summit we gazed at the + scene. The view was neither beautiful nor pretty, but what I should call + refreshing; it afforded a pleasant relief to the eyes fatigued from + dwelling on the bleak country around. Besides, the immediate neighbourhood + of the lake was too tame to call forth any enthusiasm; there were no + grandly swelling mountains, no smiling landscapes—nothing but a + dun-brown peak, about one thousand feet high above the surface of the lake + at its western extremity, from which the lake derived its name, Ugombo; + nothing but a low dun-brown irregular range, running parallel with its + northern shore at the distance of a mile; nothing but a low plain + stretching from its western shore far away towards the Mpwapwa Mountains + and Marenga Mkali, then apparent to us from our coign of vantage, from + which extensive scene of dun-brownness we were glad to rest our eyes on + the quiet grey water beneath. + </p> + <p> + Descending from the summit of the range, which bounded the lake east for + about four hundred feet, we travelled along the northern shore. The time + occupied in the journey from the eastern to the western extremity was + exactly one hour and thirty minutes. + </p> + <p> + As this side represents its greatest length I conclude that the lake is + three miles long by two miles greatest breadth. The immediate shores of + the lake on all sides, for at least fifty feet from the water's edge, is + one impassable morass nourishing rank reeds and rushes, where the + hippopotamus' ponderous form has crushed into watery trails the soft + composition of the morass as he passes from the lake on his nocturnal + excursions; the lesser animals; such as the "mbogo" (buffalo), the + "punda-terra" (zebra); the "twiga" (giraffe), the boar, the kudu, the + hyrax or coney and the antelope; come here also to quench their thirst by + night. The surface of the lake swarms with an astonishing variety of + water-fowl; such as black swan, duck, ibis sacra cranes, pelicans; and + soaring above on the look-out for their prey are fish-eagles and hawks, + while the neighbourhood is resonant with the loud chirps of the + guinea-fowls calling for their young, with the harsh cry of the toucan, + the cooing of the pigeon, and the "to-whit, to-whoo" of the owl. From the + long grass in its vicinity also issue the grating and loud cry of the + florican, woodcock, and grouse. + </p> + <p> + Being obliged to halt here two days, owing to the desertion of the Hindi + cooper Jako with one of my best carbines, I improved the opportunity of + exploring the northern and southern shores of the lake. At the rocky foot + of a low, humpy hill on the northern side, about fifteen feet above the + present surface of the water I detected in most distinct and definite + lines the agency of waves. From its base could be traced clear to the edge + of the dank morass tiny lines of comminuted shell as plainly marked as the + small particles which lie in rows on a beech after a receding tide. There + is no doubt that the wave-marks on the sandstone might have been traced + much higher by one skilled in geology; it was only its elementary + character that was visible to me. Nor do I entertain the least doubt, + after a two days' exploration of the neighbourhood, especially of the low + plain at the western end, that this Lake of Ugombo is but the tail of what + was once a large body of water equal in extent to the Tanganika; and, + after ascending half way up Ugombo Peak, this opinion was confirmed when I + saw the long-depressed line of plain at its base stretching towards the + Mpwapwa Mountains thirty miles off, and thence round to Marenga Mkali, and + covering all that extensive surface of forty miles in breadth, and an + unknown length. A depth of twelve feet more, I thought, as I gazed upon + it, would give the lake a length of thirty miles, and a breadth of ten. A + depth of thirty feet would increase its length over a hundred miles, and + give it a breadth of fifty, for such was the level nature of the plain + that stretched west of Ugombo, and north of Marenga Mkali. Besides the + water of the lake partook slightly of the bitter nature of the Matamombo + creek, distant fifteen miles, and in a still lesser degree of that of + Marenga Mkali, forty miles off. + </p> + <p> + Towards the end of the first day of our halt the Hindi cooper Jako arrived + in camp, alleging as an excuse, that feeling fatigued he had fallen asleep + in some bushes a few feet from the roadside. Having been the cause of our + detention in the hungry wilderness of Ugombo, I was not in a frame of mind + to forgive him; so, to prevent any future truant tricks on his part, I was + under the necessity of including him with the chained gangs of runaways. + </p> + <p> + Two more of our donkeys died, and to prevent any of the valuable baggage + being left behind, I was obliged to send Farquhar off on my own riding-ass + to the village of Mpwapwa, thirty miles off, under charge of Mabruki + Burton. + </p> + <p> + To save the Expedition from ruin, I was reluctantly compelled to come to + the conclusion that it were better for me, for him, and concerned, that he + be left with some kind chief of a village, with a six months' supply of + cloth and beads, until he got well, than that he make his own recovery + impossible. + </p> + <p> + The 16th of May saw us journeying over the plain which lies between Ugombo + and Mpwapwa, skirting close, at intervals, a low range of trap-rock, out + of which had become displaced by some violent agency several immense + boulders. On its slopes grew the kolquall to a size which I had not seen + in Abyssinia. In the plain grew baobab, and immense tamarind, and a + variety of thorn. + </p> + <p> + Within five hours from Ugombo the mountain range deflected towards the + north-east, while we continued on a north-westerly course, heading for the + lofty mountain-line of the Mpwapwa. To our left towered to the blue clouds + the gigantic Rubeho. The adoption of this new road to Unyanyembe by which + we were travelling was now explained—we were enabled to avoid the + passes and stiff steeps of Rubeho, and had nothing worse to encounter than + a broad smooth plain, which sloped gently to Ugogo. + </p> + <p> + After a march of fifteen miles we camped at a dry mtoni, called Matamombo, + celebrated for its pools of bitter water of the colour of ochre. Monkeys + and rhinoceroses, besides kudus, steinboks, and antelopes, were numerous + in the vicinity. At this camp my little dog "Omar" died of inflammation of + the bowels, almost on the threshold of the country—Ugogo—where + his faithful watchfulness would have been invaluable to me. + </p> + <p> + The next day's march was also fifteen miles in length, through one + interminable jungle of thorn-bushes. Within two miles of the camp, the + road led up a small river bed, broad as an avenue, clear to the khambi of + Mpwapwa; which was situated close to a number of streams of the purest + water. + </p> + <p> + The following morning found us much fatigued after the long marches from + Ugombo, and generally disposed to take advantage of the precious luxuries + Mpwapwa offered to caravans fresh from the fly-plagued lands of the + Waseguhha and Wadoe. Sheikh Thani—clever but innocently-speaking old + Arab—was encamped under the grateful umbrage of a huge Mtamba + sycamore, and had been regaling himself with fresh milk, luscious mutton, + and rich bullock humps, ever since his arrival here, two days before; and, + as he informed me, it did not suit his views to quit such a happy + abundance so soon for the saline nitrous water of Marenga Mkali, with its + several terekezas, and manifold disagreeables. "No!" said he to me, + emphatically, "better stop here two or three days, give your tired animals + some rest; collect all the pagazis you can, fill your inside with fresh + milk, sweet potatoes, beef, mutton, ghee, honey, beans, matama, maweri, + and nuts;—then, Inshallah! we shall go together through Ugogo + without stopping anywhere." As the advice tallied accurately with my own + desired and keen appetite for the good things he named, he had not long to + wait for my assent to his counsel. "Ugogo," continued he, "is rich with + milk and honey—rich in flour, beans and almost every eatable thing; + and, Inshallah! before another week is gone we shall be in Ugogo!" + </p> + <p> + I had heard from passing caravans so many extremely favourable reports + respecting Ugogo and its productions that it appeared to me a very Land of + Promise, and I was most anxious to refresh my jaded stomach with some of + the precious esculents raised in Ugogo; but when I heard that Mpwapwa also + furnished some of those delicate eatables, and good things, most of the + morning hours were spent in inducing the slow-witted people to part with + them; and when, finally, eggs, milk, honey, mutton, ghee, ground matama + and beans had been collected in sufficient quantities to produce a + respectable meal, my keenest attention and best culinary talents were + occupied for a couple of hours in converting this crude supply into a + breakfast which could be accepted by and befit a stomach at once + fastidious and famished, such as mine was. The subsequent healthy + digestion of it proved my endeavours to have been eminently successful. At + the termination of this eventful day, the following remark was jotted down + in my diary: "Thank God! After fifty-seven days of living upon matama + porridge and tough goat, I have enjoyed with unctuous satisfaction a real + breakfast and dinner." + </p> + <p> + It was in one of the many small villages which are situated upon the + slopes of the Mpwapwa that a refuge and a home for Farquhar was found + until he should be enabled by restored health to start to join us at + Unyanyembe. + </p> + <p> + Food was plentiful and of sufficient variety to suit the most fastidious—cheap + also, much cheaper than we had experienced for many a day. Leucole, the + chief of the village, with whom arrangements for Farquhar's protection and + comfort were made, was a little old man of mild eye and very pleasing + face, and on being informed that it was intended to leave the Musungu + entirely under his charge, suggested that some man should be left to wait + on him, and interpret his wishes to his people. + </p> + <p> + As Jako was the only one who could speak English, except Bombay and Selim, + Jako was appointed, and the chief Leucole was satisfied. Six months' + provisions of white beads, Merikani and Kaniki cloth, together with two + doti of handsome cloth to serve as a present to Leucole after his + recovery, were taken to Farquhar by Bombay, together with a Starr's + carbine, 300 rounds of cartridge, a set of cooking pots, and 3 lbs. of + tea. + </p> + <p> + Abdullah bin Nasib, who was found encamped here with five hundred pagazis, + and a train of Arab and Wasawahili satellites, who revolved around his + importance, treated me in somewhat the same manner that Hamed bin Sulayman + treated Speke at Kasenge. Followed by his satellites, he came (a tall + nervous-looking man, of fifty or thereabouts) to see me in my camp, and + asked me if I wished to purchase donkeys. As all my animals were either + sick or moribund, I replied very readily in the affirmative, upon which he + graciously said he would sell me as many as I wanted, and for payment I + could give him a draft on Zanzibar. I thought him a very considerate and + kind person, fully justifying the encomiums lavished on him in Burton's + 'Lake Regions of Central Africa,' and accordingly I treated him with the + consideration due to so great and good a man. The morrow came, and with it + went Abdullah bin Nasib, or "Kisesa," as he is called by the Wanyamwezi, + with all his pagazis, his train of followers, and each and every one of + his donkeys, towards Bagamoyo, without so much as giving a "Kwaheri," or + good-bye. + </p> + <p> + At this place there are generally to be found from ten to thirty pagazis + awaiting up-caravans. I was fortunate enough to secure twelve good people, + who, upon my arrival at Unyanyembe, without an exception, voluntarily + engaged themselves as carriers to Ujiji. With the formidable marches of + Marenga Mkali in front, I felt thankful for this happy windfall, which + resolved the difficulties I had been anticipating; for I had but ten + donkeys left, and four of these were so enfeebled that they were worthless + as baggage animals. + </p> + <p> + Mpwapwa—so called by the Arabs, who have managed to corrupt almost + every native word—is called "Mbambwa" by the Wasagara. It is a + mountain range rising over 6,000 feet above the sea, bounding on the north + the extensive plain which commences at Ugombo lake, and on the east that + part of the plain which is called Marenga Mkali, which stretches away + beyond the borders of Uhumba. Opposite Mpwapwa, at the distance of thirty + miles or so, rises the Anak peak of Rubeho, with several other ambitious + and tall brethren cresting long lines of rectilinear scarps, which ascend + from the plain of Ugombo and Marenga Mkali as regularly as if they had + been chiselled out by the hands of generations of masons and stonecutters. + </p> + <p> + Upon looking at Mpwapwa's greenly-tinted slopes, dark with many a + densely-foliaged tree; its many rills flowing sweet and clear, nourishing + besides thick patches of gum and thorn bush, giant sycamore and + parachute-topped mimosa, and permitting my imagination to picture sweet + views behind the tall cones above, I was tempted to brave the fatigue of + an ascent to the summit. Nor was my love for the picturesque disappointed. + One sweep of the eyes embraced hundreds of square miles of plain and + mountain, from Ugombo Peak away to distant Ugogo, and from Rubeho and + Ugogo to the dim and purple pasture lands of the wild, untamable Wahumba. + The plain of Ugombo and its neighbour of Marenga Mkali, apparently level + as a sea, was dotted here and there with "hillocks dropt in Nature's + careless haste," which appeared like islands amid the dun and green + expanse. Where the jungle was dense the colour was green, alternating with + dark brown; where the plain appeared denuded of bush and brake it had a + whity-brown appearance, on which the passing clouds now and again cast + their deep shadows. Altogether this side of the picture was not inviting; + it exhibited too plainly the true wilderness in its sternest aspect; but + perhaps the knowledge that in the bosom of the vast plain before me there + was not one drop of water but was bitter as nitre, and undrinkable as + urine, prejudiced me against it, The hunter might consider it a paradise, + for in its depths were all kinds of game to attract his keenest instincts; + but to the mere traveller it had a stern outlook. Nearer, however, to the + base of the Mpwapwa the aspect of the plain altered. At first the jungle + thinned, openings in the wood appeared, then wide and naked clearings, + then extensive fields of the hardy holcus, Indian corn, and maweri or + bajri, with here and there a square tembe or village. Still nearer ran + thin lines of fresh young grass, great trees surrounded a patch of + alluvial meadow. A broad river-bed, containing several rivulets of water, + ran through the thirsty fields, conveying the vivifying element which in + this part of Usagara was so scarce and precious. Down to the river-bed + sloped the Mpwapwa, roughened in some places by great boulders of basalt, + or by rock masses, which had parted from a precipitous scarp, where clung + the kolquall with a sure hold, drawing nourishment where every other green + thing failed; clad in others by the hardy mimosa, which rose like a + sloping bank of green verdure almost to the summit. And, happy sight to me + so long a stranger to it, there were hundreds of cattle grazing, imparting + a pleasing animation to the solitude of the deep folds of the mountain + range. + </p> + <p> + But the fairest view was obtained by looking northward towards the dense + group of mountains which buttressed the front range, facing towards + Rubeho. It was the home of the winds, which starting here and sweeping + down the precipitous slopes and solitary peaks on the western side, and + gathering strength as they rushed through the prairie-like Marenga Mkali, + howled through Ugogo and Unyamwezi with the force of a storm, It was also + the home of the dews, where sprang the clear springs which cheered by + their music the bosky dells below, and enriched the populous district of + Mpwapwa. One felt better, stronger, on this breezy height, drinking in the + pure air and feasting the eyes on such a varied landscape as it presented, + on spreading plateaus green as lawns, on smooth rounded tops, on mountain + vales containing recesses which might charm a hermit's soul, on deep and + awful ravines where reigned a twilight gloom, on fractured and riven + precipices, on huge fantastically-worn boulders which overtopped them, on + picturesque tracts which embraced all that was wild, and all that was + poetical in Nature. + </p> + <p> + Mpwapwa, though the traveller from the coast will feel grateful for the + milk it furnished after being so long deprived of it, will be kept in mind + as a most remarkable place for earwigs. In my tent they might be counted + by thousands; in my slung cot they were by hundreds; on my clothes they + were by fifties; on my neck and head they were by scores. The several + plagues of locusts, fleas, and lice sink into utter insignificance + compared with this fearful one of earwigs. It is true they did not bite, + and they did not irritate the cuticle, but what their presence and numbers + suggested was something so horrible that it drove one nearly insane to + think of it. Who will come to East Africa without reading the experiences + of Burton and Speke? Who is he that having read them will not remember + with horror the dreadful account given by Speke of his encounters with + these pests? My intense nervous watchfulness alone, I believe, saved me + from a like calamity. + </p> + <p> + Second to the earwigs in importance and in numbers were the white ants, + whose powers of destructiveness were simply awful. Mats, cloth, + portmanteaus, clothes, in short, every article I possessed, seemed on the + verge of destruction, and, as I witnessed their voracity, I felt anxious + lest my tent should be devoured while I slept. This was the first khambi + since leaving the coast where their presence became a matter of anxiety; + at all other camping places hitherto the red and black ants had usurped + our attention, but at Mpwapwa the red species were not seen, while the + black were also very scarce. + </p> + <p> + After a three days' halt at Mpwapwa I decided of a march to Marenga Mkali, + which should be uninterrupted until we reached Mvumi in Ugogo, where I + should be inducted into the art of paying tribute to the Wagogo chiefs. + The first march to Kisokweh was purposely made short, being barely four + miles, in order to enable Sheikh Thani, Sheikh Hamed, and five or six + Wasawahili caravans to come up with me at Chunyo on the confines of + Marenga Mkali. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0007" id="link2HCH0007"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER VII. — MARENGA MKALI, UGOGO, AND UYANZI, TO UNYANYEMBE. + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Mortality amongst the baggage animals.—The contumacious + Wagogo—Mobs of Maenads.—Tribute paying.—Necessity of + prudence.—Oration of the guide.—The genuine "Ugogians."— + Vituperative power.—A surprised chief.—The famous + Mizanza.—Killing hyaenas.—The Greeks and Romans of + Africa.—A critical moment.—The "elephant's back."—The + wilderness of Ukimbu.—End of the first stage of the + search.—Arrival at Unyanyembe. +</pre> + <p> + The 22nd of May saw Thani and Hamed's caravans united with my own at + Chunyo, three and a half hours' march from Mpwapwa. The road from the + latter place ran along the skirts of the Mpwapwa range; at three or four + places it crossed outlying spurs that stood isolated from the main body of + the range. The last of these hill spurs, joined by an elevated cross ridge + to the Mpwapwa, shelters the tembe of Chunyo, situated on the western + face, from the stormy gusts that come roaring down the steep slopes. The + water of Chunyo is eminently bad, in fact it is its saline-nitrous nature + which has given the name Marenga Mkali—bitter water—to the + wilderness which separates Usagara from Ugogo. Though extremely offensive + to the palate, Arabs and the natives drink it without fear, and without + any bad results; but they are careful to withhold their baggage animals + from the pits. Being ignorant of its nature, and not exactly understanding + what precise location was meant by Marenga Mkali, I permitted the donkeys + to be taken to water, as usual after a march; and the consequence was + calamitous in the extreme. What the fearful swamp of Makata had spared, + the waters of Marenga Mkali destroyed. In less than five days after our + departure from Chunyo or Marenga Mali, five out of the nine donkeys left + to me at the time—the five healthiest animals—fell victims. + </p> + <p> + We formed quite an imposing caravan as we emerged from inhospitable + Chunyo, in number amounting to about four hundred souls. We were strong in + guns, flags, horns, sounding drums and noise. To Sheikh Hamed, by + permission of Sheikh Thani, and myself was allotted the task of guiding + and leading this great caravan through dreaded Ugogo; which was a most + unhappy selection, as will be seen hereafter. + </p> + <p> + Marenga Mali, over thirty miles across, was at last before us. This + distance had to be traversed within thirty-six hours, so that the fatigue + of the ordinary march would be more than doubled by this. From Chunyo to + Ugogo not one drop of water was to be found. As a large caravan, say over + two hundred souls, seldom travels over one and three-quarter miles per + hour, a march of thirty miles would require seventeen hours of endurance + without water and but little rest. East Africa generally possessing + unlimited quantities of water, caravans have not been compelled for lack + of the element to have recourse to the mushok of India and the khirbeh of + Egypt. Being able to cross the waterless districts by a couple of long + marches, they content themselves for the time with a small gourdful, and + with keeping their imaginations dwelling upon the copious quantities they + will drink upon arrival at the watering-place. + </p> + <p> + The march through this waterless district was most monotonous, and a + dangerous fever attacked me, which seemed to eat into my very vitals. The + wonders of Africa that bodied themselves forth in the shape of flocks of + zebras, giraffes, elands, or antelopes, galloping over the jungleless + plain, had no charm for me; nor could they serve to draw my attention from + the severe fit of sickness which possessed me. Towards the end of the + first march I was not able to sit upon the donkey's back; nor would it do, + when but a third of the way across the wilderness, to halt until the next + day; soldiers were therefore detailed to carry me in a hammock, and, when + the terekeza was performed in the afternoon, I lay in a lethargic state, + unconscious of all things. With the night passed the fever, and, at 3 + o'clock in the morning, when the march was resumed, I was booted and + spurred, and the recognized mtongi of my caravan once more. At 8 A.M. we + had performed the thirty-two miles. The wilderness of Marenga Mkali had + been passed and we had entered Ugogo, which was at once a dreaded land to + my caravan, and a Land of Promise to myself. + </p> + <p> + The transition from the wilderness into this Promised Land was very + gradual and easy. Very slowly the jungle thinned, the cleared land was a + long time appearing, and when it had finally appeared, there were no signs + of cultivation until we could clearly make out the herbage and vegetation + on some hill slopes to our right running parallel with our route, then we + saw timber on the hills, and broad acreage under cultivation—and, + lo! as we ascended a wave of reddish earth covered with tall weeds and + cane, but a few feet from us, and directly across our path, were the + fields of matama and grain we had been looking for, and Ugogo had been + entered an hour before. + </p> + <p> + The view was not such as I expected. I had imagined a plateau several + hundred feet higher than Marenga Mkali, and an expansive view which should + reveal Ugogo and its characteristics at once. But instead, while + travelling from the tall weeds which covered the clearing which had + preceded the cultivated parts, we had entered into the depths of the + taller matama stalks, and, excepting some distant hills near Mvumi, where + the Great Sultan lived—the first of the tribe to whom we should pay + tribute—the view was extremely limited. + </p> + <p> + However, in the neighbourhood of the first village a glimpse at some of + the peculiar features of Ugogo was obtained, and there was a vast plain—now + flat, now heaving upwards, here level as a table, there tilted up into + rugged knolls bristling with scores of rough boulders of immense size, + which lay piled one above another as if the children of a Titanic race had + been playing at house-building. Indeed, these piles of rounded, angular, + and riven rock formed miniature hills of themselves; and appeared as if + each body had been ejected upwards by some violent agency beneath. There + was one of these in particular, near Mvumi, which was so large, and being + slightly obscured from view by the outspreading branches of a gigantic + baobab, bore such a strong resemblance to a square tower of massive + dimensions, that for a long time I cherished the idea that I had + discovered something most interesting which had strangely escaped the + notice of my predecessors in East Africa. A nearer view dispelled the + illusion, and proved it to be a huge cube of rock, measuring about forty + feet each way. The baobabs were also particularly conspicuous on this + scene, no other kind of tree being visible in the cultivated parts. These + had probably been left for two reasons: first, want of proper axes for + felling trees of such enormous growth; secondly, because during a famine + the fruit of the baobab furnishes a flour which, in the absence of + anything better, is said to be eatable and nourishing. + </p> + <p> + The first words I heard in Ugogo were from a Wagogo elder, of sturdy form, + who in an indolent way tended the flocks, but showed a marked interest in + the stranger clad in white flannels, with a Hawkes' patent cork solar + topee on his head, a most unusual thing in Ugogo, who came walking past + him, and there were "Yambo, Musungu, Yambo, bana, bana," delivered with a + voice loud enough to make itself heard a full mile away. No sooner had the + greeting been delivered than the word "Musungu" seemed to electrify his + entire village; and the people of other villages, situated at intervals + near the road, noting the excitement that reigned at the first, also + participated in the general frenzy which seemed suddenly to have possessed + them. I consider my progress from the first village to Mvumi to have been + most triumphant; for I was accompanied by a furious mob of men, women, and + children, all almost as naked as Mother Eve when the world first dawned + upon her in the garden of Eden, fighting, quarrelling, jostling, + staggering against each other for the best view of the white man, the like + of whom was now seen for the first time in this part of Ugogo. The cries + of admiration, such as "Hi-le!" which broke often and in confused uproar + upon my ear, were not gratefully accepted, inasmuch as I deemed many of + them impertinent. A respectful silence and more reserved behaviour would + have won my esteem; but, ye powers, who cause etiquette to be observed in + Usungu,* respectful silence, reserved behaviour, and esteem are terms + unknown in savage Ugogo. Hitherto I had compared myself to a merchant of + Bagdad travelling among the Kurds of Kurdistan, selling his wares of + Damascus silk, kefiyehs, &c.; but now I was compelled to lower my + standard, and thought myself not much better than a monkey in a zoological + collection. One of my soldiers requested them to lessen their vociferous + noise; but the evil-minded race ordered him to shut up, as a thing + unworthy to speak to the Wagogo! When I imploringly turned to the Arabs + for counsel in this strait, old Sheikh Thani, always worldly wise, said, + "Heed them not; they are dogs who bite besides barking." ———— + * White man's land. ———— + </p> + <p> + At 9 A.M. we were in our boma, near Mvumi village; but here also crowds of + Wagogo came to catch a glimpse of the Musungu, whose presence was soon + made known throughout the district of Mvumi. But two hours later I was + oblivious of their endeavours to see me; for, despite repeated doses of + quinine, the mukunguru had sure hold of me. + </p> + <p> + The next day was a march of eight miles, from East Mvumi to West Mvumi, + where lived the Sultan of the district. The quantity and variety of + provisions which arrived at our boma did not belie the reports respecting + the productions of Ugogo. Milk, sour and sweet, honey, beans, matama, + maweri, Indian corn, ghee, pea-nuts, and a species of bean-nut very like a + large pistachio or an almond, water-melons, pumpkins, mush-melons, and + cucumbers were brought, and readily exchanged for Merikani, Kaniki, and + for the white Merikani beads and Sami-Sami, or Sam-Sam. The trade and + barter which progressed in the camp from morning till night reminded me of + the customs existing among the Gallas and Abyssinians. Eastward, caravans + were obliged to despatch men with cloth, to purchase from the villagers. + This was unnecessary in Ugogo, where the people voluntarily brought every + vendible they possessed to the camp. The smallest breadth of white or blue + cloth became saleable and useful in purchasing provisions—even a + loin-cloth worn threadbare. + </p> + <p> + The day after our march was a halt. We had fixed this day for bearing the + tribute to the Great Sultan of Mvumi. Prudent and cautious Sheikh Thani + early began this important duty, the omission of which would have been a + signal for war. Hamed and Thani sent two faithful slaves, well up to the + eccentricities of the Wagogo sultans—well spoken, having glib + tongues and the real instinct for trade as carried on amongst Orientals. + They bore six doti of cloths, viz., one doti of Dabwani Ulyah contributed + by myself, also one doti of Barsati from me, two doti Merikani Satine from + Sheikh Thani, and two doti of Kaniki from Sheikh Hamed, as a first + instalment of the tribute. The slaves were absent a full hour, but having + wasted their powers of pleading, in vain, they returned with the demand + for more, which Sheikh Thani communicated to me in this wise: + </p> + <p> + "Auf! this Sultan is a very bad man—a very bad man indeed; he says, + the Musungu is a great man, I call him a sultan; the Musungu is very rich, + for he has several caravans already gone past; the Musungu must pay forty + doti, and the Arabs must pay twelve doti each, for they have rich + caravans. It is of no use for you to tell me you are all one caravan, + otherwise why so many flags and tents? Go and bring me sixty doti, with + less I will not be satisfied." + </p> + <p> + I suggested to Sheikh Thani, upon hearing this exorbitant demand, that had + I twenty Wasungu* armed with Winchester repeating rifles, the Sultan might + be obliged to pay tribute to me; but Thani prayed and begged me to be + cautious lest angry words might irritate the Sultan and cause him to + demand a double tribute, as he was quite capable of doing so; "and if you + preferred war," said he, "your pagazis would all desert, and leave you and + your cloth to the small mercy of the Wagogo." But I hastened to allay his + fears by telling Bombay, in his presence, that I had foreseen such demands + on the part of the Wagogo, and that having set aside one hundred and + twenty doti of honga cloths, I should not consider myself a sufferer if + the Sultan demanded and I paid forty cloths to him; that he must therefore + open the honga bale, and permit Sheikh Thani to extract such cloths as the + Sultan might like. + </p> + <p> + Sheikh Thani, having put on the cap of consideration and joined heads with + Hamed and the faithful serviles, thought if I paid twelve doti, out of + which three should be of Ulyah+ quality, that the Sultan might possibly + condescend to accept our tribute; supposing he was persuaded by the + oratorical words of the "Faithfuls," that the Musungu had nothing with him + but the mashiwa (boat), which would be of no use to him, come what might,—with + which prudent suggestion the Musungu concurred, seeing its wisdom. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + * White men. + + + Best, or superior. +</pre> + <p> + The slaves departed, bearing this time from our boma thirty doti, with our + best wishes for their success. In an hour they returned with empty hands, + but yet unsuccessful. The Sultan demanded six doti of Merikani, and a + fundo of bubu, from the Musungu; and from the Arabs and other caravans, + twelve doti more. For the third time the slaves departed for the Sultan's + tembe, carrying with them six doti Merikani and a fundo of bubu from + myself, and ten doti from the Arabs. Again they returned to us with the + Sultan's words, "That, as the doti of the Musungu were short measure, and + the cloths of the Arabs of miserable quality, the Musungu must send three + doti full measure, and the Arabs five doti of Kaniki." My three doti were + at once measured out with the longest fore-arm—according to Kigogo + measure—and sent off by Bombay; but the Arabs, almost in despair, + declared they would be ruined if they gave way to such demands, and out of + the five doti demanded sent only two, with a pleading to the Sultan that + he would consider what was paid as just and fair Muhongo, and not ask any + more. But the Sultan of Mvumi was by no means disposed to consider any + such proposition, but declared he must have three doti, and these to be + two of Ulyah cloth, and one Kitambi Barsati, which, as he was determined + to obtain, were sent to him heavy with the deep maledictions of Sheikh + Hamed and the despairing sighs of sheikh Thani. + </p> + <p> + Altogether the sultanship of a district in Ugogo must be very + remunerative, besides being a delightful sinecure, so long as the Sultan + has to deal with timid Arab merchants who fear to exhibit anything + approaching to independence and self-reliance, lest they might be mulcted + in cloth. In one day from one camp the sultan received forty-seven doti, + consisting of Merikani, Kaniki, Barsati, and Dabwani, equal to $35.25, + besides seven doti of superior cloths, consisting of Rehani, Sohari, and + Daobwani Ulyah, and one fundo of Bubu, equal to $14.00, making a total of + $49.25—a most handsome revenue for a Mgogo chief. + </p> + <p> + On the 27th May we gladly shook the dust of Mvumi from our feet, and + continued on our route—ever westward. Five of my donkeys had died + the night before, from the effects of the water of Marenga Mkali. Before + leaving the camp of Mvumi, I went to look at their carcases; but found + them to have been clean picked by the hyaenas, and the bones taken + possession of by an army of white-necked crows. + </p> + <p> + As we passed the numerous villages, and perceived the entire face of the + land to be one vast field of grain, and counted the people halted by + scores on the roadside to feast their eyes with a greedy stare on the + Musungu, I no longer wondered at the extortionate demands of the Wagogo. + For it was manifest that they had but to stretch out their hands to + possess whatever the wealth of a caravan consisted of; and I began to + think better of the people who, knowing well their strength, did not use + it—of people who were intellectual enough to comprehend that their + interest lay in permitting the caravans to pass on without attempting any + outrage. + </p> + <p> + Between Mvumi and the nest Sultan's district, that of Matamburu, I counted + no less than twenty-five villages, scattered over the clayey, coloured + plain. Despite the inhospitable nature of the plain, it was better + cultivated than any part of any other country we had seen since leaving + Bagamoyo. + </p> + <p> + When we had at last arrived at our boma of Matamburu, the same groups of + curious people, the same eager looks, the same exclamations of surprise, + the same, peals of laughter, at something they deemed ludicrous in the + Musungu's dress or manner, awaited us, as at Mvumi. The Arabs being + "Wakonongo" travellers, whom they saw every day, enjoyed a complete + immunity from the vexations which we had to endure. + </p> + <p> + The Sultan of Matamburu, a man of herculean form, and massive head well + set on shoulders that might vie with those of Milo, proved to be a very + reasonable person. Not quite so powerful as the Sultan of Mvumi, he yet + owned a fair share of Ugogo and about forty villages, and could, if he + chose, have oppressed the mercantile souls of my Arab companions, in the + same way as he of Mvumi. Four doti of cloth were taken to him as a + preliminary offering to his greatness, which he said he would accept, if + the Arabs and Musungu would send him four more. As his demands were so + reasonable, this little affair was soon terminated to everybody's + satisfaction; and soon after, the kirangozi of Sheikh Hamed sounded the + signal for the morrow's march. + </p> + <p> + At the orders of the same Sheikh, the kirangozi stood up to speak before + the assembled caravans. "Words, words, from the Bana," he shouted. "Give + ear, kirangozis! Listen, children of Unyamwezi! The journey is for + to-morrow! The road is crooked and bad, bad! The jungle is there, and many + Wagogo lie hidden within it! Wagogo spear the pagazis, and cut the throats + of those who carry mutumba (bales) and ushanga (beads)! The Wagogo have + been to our camp, they have seen your bales; to-night they seek the + jungle: to-morrow watch well, O Wanyamwezi! Keep close together, lag not + behind! Kirangozis walk slow, that the weak, the sick, and the young may + keep up with the strong! Take two rests on the journey! These are the + words of the Bana (master). Do you hear them, Wanyamwezi? (A loud shout in + the affirmative from all.) Do you understand them well? (another chorus); + then Bas;" having said which, the eloquent kirangozi retired into the dark + night, and his straw hut. + </p> + <p> + The march to Bihawana, our next camp, was rugged and long, through a + continuous jungle of gums and thorns, up steep hills and finally over a + fervid plain, while the sun waxed hotter and hotter as it drew near the + meridian, until it seemed to scorch all vitality from inanimate nature, + while the view was one white blaze, unbearable to the pained sight, which + sought relief from the glare in vain. Several sandy watercourses, on which + were impressed many a trail of elephants, were also passed on this march. + The slope of these stream-beds trended south-east and south. + </p> + <p> + In the middle of this scorching plain stood the villages of Bihawana, + almost undistinguishable, from the extreme lowness of the huts, which did + not reach the height of the tall bleached grass which stood smoking in the + untempered heat. + </p> + <p> + Our camp was in a large boma, about a quarter of a mile from the Sultan's + tembe. Soon after arriving at the camp, I was visited by three Wagogo, who + asked me if I had seen a Mgogo on the road with a woman and child. I was + about to answer, very innocently, "Yes," when Mabruki—cautious and + watchful always for the interests of the master—requested me not to + answer, as the Wagogo, as customary, would charge me with having done away + with them, and would require their price from me. Indignant at the + imposition they were about to practise upon me, I was about to raise my + whip to flog them out of the camp, when again Mabruki, with a roaring + voice, bade me beware, for every blow would cost me three or four doti of + cloth. As I did not care to gratify my anger at such an expense, I was + compelled to swallow my wrath, and consequently the Wagogo escaped + chastisement. + </p> + <p> + We halted for one day at this place, which was a great relief to me, as I + was suffering severely from intermittent fever, which lasted in this case + two weeks, and entirely prevented my posting my diary in full, as was my + custom every evening after a march. + </p> + <p> + The Sultan of Bihawana, though his subjects were evil-disposed, and + ready-handed at theft and murder, contented himself with three doti as + honga. From this chief I received news of my fourth caravan, which had + distinguished itself in a fight with some outlawed subjects of his; my + soldiers had killed two who had attempted, after waylaying a couple of my + pagazis, to carry away a bale of cloth and a bag of beads; coming up in + time, the soldiers decisively frustrated the attempt. The Sultan thought + that if all caravans were as well guarded as mine were, there would be + less depredations committed on them while on the road; with which I + heartily agreed. + </p> + <p> + The next sultan's tembe through whose territory we marched, this being on + the 30th May, was at Kididimo, but four miles from Bihawna. The road led + through a flat elongated plain, lying between two lengthy hilly ridges, + thickly dotted with the giant forms of the baobab. Kididimo is exceedingly + bleak in aspect. Even the faces of the Wagogo seemed to have contracted a + bleak hue from the general bleakness around. The water of the pits + obtained in the neighbourhood had an execrable flavor, and two donkeys + sickened and died in less than an hour from its effects. Man suffered + nausea and a general irritability of the system, and accordingly revenged + himself by cursing the country and its imbecile ruler most heartily. The + climax came, however, when Bombay reported, after an attempt to settle the + Muhongo, that the chief's head had grown big since he heard that the + Musungu had come, and that its "bigness" could not be reduced unless he + could extract ten doti as tribute. Though the demand was large, I was not + in a humour—being feeble, and almost nerveless, from repeated + attacks of the Mukunguru—to dispute the sum: consequently it was + paid without many words. But the Arabs continued the whole afternoon + negotiating, and at the end had to pay eight doti each. + </p> + <p> + Between Kididimo and Nyambwa, the district of the Sultan Pembera Pereh, + was a broad and lengthy forest and jungle inhabited by the elephant, + rhinoceros, zebra, deer, antelope, and giraffe. Starting at dawn of the + 31st; we entered the jungle, whose dark lines and bosky banks were clearly + visible from our bower at Kididimo; and, travelling for two hours, halted + for rest and breakfast, at pools of sweet water surrounded by tracts of + vivid green verdure, which were a great resort for the wild animals of the + jungle, whose tracks were numerous and recent. A narrow nullah, shaded + deeply with foliage, afforded excellent retreats from the glaring + sunshine. At meridian, our thirst quenched, our hunger satisfied, our + gourds refilled, we set out from the shade into the heated blaze of hot + noon. The path serpentined in and out of jungle, and thin forest, into + open tracts of grass bleached white as stubble, into thickets of gums and + thorns, which emitted an odour as rank as a stable; through clumps of + wide-spreading mimosa and colonies of baobab, through a country teeming + with noble game, which, though we saw them frequently, were yet as safe + from our rifles as if we had been on the Indian Ocean. A terekeza, such as + we were now making, admits of no delay. Water we had left behind at noon: + until noon of the next day not a drop was to be obtained; and unless we + marched fast and long on this day, raging thirst would demoralize + everybody. So for six long weary hours we toiled bravely; and at sunset we + camped, and still a march of two hours, to be done before the sun was an + hour high, intervened between us and our camp at Nyambwa. That night the + men bivouacked under the trees, surrounded by many miles of dense forest, + enjoying the cool night unprotected by hat or tent, while I groaned and + tossed throughout the night in a paroxysm of fever. + </p> + <p> + The morn came; and, while it was yet young, the long caravan, or string of + caravans, was under way. It was the same forest, admitting, on the narrow + line which we threaded, but one man at a time. Its view was as limited. To + our right and left the forest was dark and deep. Above was a riband of + glassy sky flecked by the floating nimbus. We heard nothing save a few + stray notes from a flying bird, or the din of the caravans as the men + sang, or hummed, or conversed, or shouted, as the thought struck them that + we were nearing water. One of my pagazis, wearied and sick, fell, and + never rose again. The last of the caravan passed him before he died. + </p> + <p> + At 7 A.M. we were encamped at Nyambwa, drinking the excellent water found + here with the avidity of thirsty camels. Extensive fields of grain had + heralded the neighbourhood of the villages, at the sight of which we were + conscious that the caravan was quickening its pace, as approaching its + halting-place. As the Wasungu drew within the populated area, crowds of + Wagogo used their utmost haste to see them before they passed by. Young + and old of both genders pressed about us in a multitude—a very + howling mob. This excessive demonstrativeness elicited from my sailor + overseer the characteristic remark, "Well, I declare, these must be the + genuine Ugogians, for they stare! stare—there is no end to their + staring. I'm almost tempted to slap 'em in the face!" In fact, the conduct + of the Wagogo of Nyambwa was an exaggeration of the general conduct of + Wagogo. Hitherto, those we had met had contented themselves with staring + and shouting; but these outstepped all bounds, and my growing anger at + their excessive insolence vented itself in gripping the rowdiest of them + by the neck, and before he could recover from his astonishment + administering a sound thrashing with my dog-whip, which he little + relished. This proceeding educed from the tribe of starers all their + native power of vituperation and abuse, in expressing which they were + peculiar. Approaching in manner to angry tom-cats, they jerked their words + with something of a splitting hiss and a half bark. The ejaculation, as + near as I can spell it phonetically, was "hahcht" uttered in a shrill + crescendo tone. They paced backwards and forwards, asking themselves, "Are + the Wagoga to be beaten like slaves by this Musungu? A Mgogo is a Mgwana + (a free man); he is not used to be beaten,—hahcht." But whenever I + made motion, flourishing my whip, towards them, these mighty braggarts + found it convenient to move to respectable distances from the irritated + Musungu. + </p> + <p> + Perceiving that a little manliness and show of power was something which + the Wagogo long needed, and that in this instance it relieved me from + annoyance, I had recourse to my whip, whose long lash cracked like a + pistol shot, whenever they overstepped moderation. So long as they + continued to confine their obtrusiveness to staring, and communicating to + each other their opinions respecting my complexion, and dress, and + accoutrements, I philosophically resigned myself in silence for their + amusement; but when they pressed on me, barely allowing me to proceed, a + few vigorous and rapid slashes right and left with my serviceable thong, + soon cleared the track. + </p> + <p> + Pembera Pereh is a queer old man, very small, and would be very + insignificant were he not the greatest sultan in Ugogo; and enjoying a + sort of dimediate power over many other tribes. Though such an important + chief, he is the meanest dressed of his subjects,—is always filthy,—ever + greasy—eternally foul about the mouth; but these are mere + eccentricities: as a wise judge, he is without parallel, always has a + dodge ever ready for the abstraction of cloth from the spiritless Arab + merchants, who trade with Unyanyembe every year; and disposes with ease of + a judicial case which would overtask ordinary men. + </p> + <p> + Sheikh Hamed, who was elected guider of the united caravans now travelling + through Ugogo, was of such a fragile and small make, that he might be + taken for an imitation of his famous prototype "Dapper." Being of such + dimensions, what he lacked for weight and size he made up by activity. No + sooner had he arrived in camp than his trim dapper form was seen frisking + about from side to side of the great boma, fidgeting, arranging, + disturbing everything and everybody. He permitted no bales or packs to be + intermingled, or to come into too close proximity to his own; he had a + favourite mode of stacking his goods, which he would see carried out; he + had a special eye for the best place for his tent, and no one else must + trespass on that ground. One would imagine that walking ten or fifteen + miles a day, he would leave such trivialities to his servants, but no, + nothing could be right unless he had personally superintended it; in which + work he was tireless and knew no fatigue. + </p> + <p> + Another not uncommon peculiarity pertained to Sheikh Hamed; as he was not + a rich man, he laboured hard to make the most of every shukka and doti + expended, and each fresh expenditure seemed to gnaw his very vitals: he + was ready to weep, as he himself expressed it, at the high prices of + Ugogo, and the extortionate demands of its sultans. For this reason, being + the leader of the caravans, so far as he was able we were very sure not to + be delayed in Ugogo, where food was so dear. + </p> + <p> + The day we arrived at Nyambwa will be remembered by Hamed as long as he + lives, for the trouble and vexation which he suffered. His misfortunes + arose from the fact that, being too busily engaged in fidgeting about the + camp, he permitted his donkeys to stray into the matama fields of Pembera + Pereh, the Sultan. For hours he and his servants sought for the stray + donkeys, returning towards evening utterly unsuccessful, Hamed bewailing, + as only an Oriental can do, when hard fate visits him with its + inflictions, the loss of a hundred do dollars worth of Muscat donkeys. + Sheikh Thani, older, more experienced, and wiser, suggested to him that he + should notify the Sultan of his loss. Acting upon the sagacious advice, + Hamed sent an embassy of two slaves, and the information they brought back + was, that Pembera Pereh's servants had found the two donkeys eating the + unripened matama, and that unless the Arab who owned them would pay nine + doti of first-class cloths, he, Pembera Pereh, would surely keep them to + remunerate him for the matama they had eaten. Hamed was in despair. Nine + doti of first-class cloths, worth $25 in Unyanyembe, for half a chukka's + worth of grain, was, as he thought, an absurd demand; but then if he did + not pay it, what would become of the hundred dollars' worth of donkeys? He + proceeded to the Sultan to show him the absurdity of the damage claim, and + to endeavour to make him accept one chukka, which would be more than + double the worth of what grain the donkeys had consumed. But the Sultan + was sitting on pombe; he was drunk, which I believe to be his normal state—too + drunk to attend to business, consequently his deputy, a renegade + Mnyamwezi, gave ear to the business. With most of the Wagogo chiefs lives + a Mnyamwezi, as their right-hand man, prime minister, counsellor, + executioner, ready man at all things save the general good; a sort of + harlequin Unyamwezi, who is such an intriguing, restless, unsatisfied + person, that as soon as one hears that this kind of man forms one of and + the chief of a Mgogo sultan's council, one feels very much tempted to do + damage to his person. Most of the extortions practised upon the Arabs are + suggested by these crafty renegades. Sheikh Hamed found that the Mnyamwezi + was far more obdurate than the Sultan—nothing under nine doti + first-class cloths would redeem the donkeys. The business that day + remained unsettled, and the night following was, as one may imagine, a + very sleepless one to Hamed. As it turned out, however, the loss of the + donkeys, the after heavy fine, and the sleepless night, proved to be + blessings in disguise; for, towards midnight, a robber Mgogo visited his + camp, and while attempting to steal a bale of cloth, was detected in the + act by the wide-awake and irritated Arab, and was made to vanish instantly + with a bullet whistling in close proximity to his ear. + </p> + <p> + From each of the principals of the caravans, the Mnyamwezi had received as + tribute for his drunken master fifteen doti, and from the other six + caravans six doti each, altogether fifty-one doti, yet on the next morning + when we took the road he was not a whit disposed to deduct a single cloth + from the fine imposed on Hamed, and the unfortunate Sheikh was therefore + obliged to liquidate the claim, or leave his donkeys behind. + </p> + <p> + After travelling through the corn-fields of Pembera Pereh we emerged upon + a broad flat plain, as level as the still surface of a pond, whence the + salt of the Wagogo is obtained. From Kanyenyi on the southern road, to + beyond the confines of Uhumba and Ubanarama, this saline field extends, + containing many large ponds of salt bitter water whose low banks are + covered with an effervescence partaking of the nature of nitrate. + Subsequently, two days afterwards, having ascended the elevated ridge + which separates Ugogo from Uyanzi, I obtained a view of this immense + saline plain, embracing over a hundred square miles. I may have been + deceived, but I imagined I saw large expanses of greyish-blue water, which + causes me to believe that this salina is but a corner of a great salt + lake. The Wahumba, who are numerous, from Nyambwa to the Uyanzi border, + informed my soldiers that there was a "Maji Kuba" away to the north. + </p> + <p> + Mizanza, our next camp after Nyambwa, is situated in a grove of palms, + about thirteen miles from the latter place. Soon after arriving I had to + bury myself under blankets, plagued with the same intermittent fever which + first attacked me during the transit of Marenga Mkali. Feeling certain + that one day's halt, which would enable me to take regular doses of the + invaluable sulphate of quinine, would cure me, I requested Sheikh Thani to + tell Hamed to halt on the morrow, as I should be utterly unable to + continue thus long, under repeated attacks of a virulent disease which was + fast reducing me into a mere frame of skin and bone. Hamed, in a hurry to + arrive at Unyanyembe in order to dispose of his cloth before other + caravans appeared in the market, replied at first that he would not, that + he could not, stop for the Musungu. Upon Thani's reporting his answer to + me, I requested him to inform Hamed that, as the Musungu did not wish to + detain him, or any other caravan, it was his express wish that Hamed would + march and leave him, as he was quite strong enough in guns to march + through Ugogo alone. Whatever cause modified the Sheikh's resolution and + his anxiety to depart, Hamed's horn signal for the march was not heard + that night, and on the morrow he had not gone. + </p> + <p> + Early in the morning I commenced on my quinine doses; at 6 A.M. I took a + second dose; before noon I had taken four more—altogether, fifty + measured grains-the effect of which was manifest in the copious + perspiration which drenched flannels, linen, and blankets. After noon I + arose, devoutly thankful that the disease which had clung to me for the + last fourteen days had at last succumbed to quinine. + </p> + <p> + On this day the lofty tent, and the American flag which ever flew from the + centre pole, attracted the Sultan of Mizanza towards it, and was the cause + of a visit with which he honoured me. As he was notorious among the Arabs + for having assisted Manwa Sera in his war against Sheikh Sny bin Amer, + high eulogies upon whom have been written by Burton, and subsequently by + Speke, and as he was the second most powerful chief in Ugogo, of course he + was quite a curiosity to me. As the tent-door was uplifted that he might + enter, the ancient gentleman was so struck with astonishment at the lofty + apex, and internal arrangements, that the greasy Barsati cloth which + formed his sole and only protection against the chills of night and the + heat of noon, in a fit of abstraction was permitted to fall down to his + feet, exposing to the Musungu's unhallowed gaze the sad and aged wreck of + what must once have been a towering form. His son, a youth of about + fifteen, attentive to the infirmities of his father, hastened with filial + duty to remind him of his condition, upon which, with an idiotic titter at + the incident, he resumed his scanty apparel and sat down to wonder and + gibber out his admiration at the tent and the strange things which formed + the Musungu's personal baggage and furniture. After gazing in stupid + wonder at the table, on which was placed some crockery and the few books I + carried with me; at the slung hammock, which he believed was suspended by + some magical contrivance; at the portmanteaus which contained my stock of + clothes, he ejaculated, "Hi-le! the Musungu is a great sultan, who has + come from his country to see Ugogo." He then noticed me, and was again + wonder-struck at my pale complexion and straight hair, and the question + now propounded was, "How on earth was I white when the sun had burned his + people's skins into blackness?" Whereupon he was shown my cork topee, + which he tried on his woolly head, much to his own and to our amusement. + The guns were next shown to him; the wonderful repeating rifle of the + Winchester Company, which was fired thirteen times in rapid succession to + demonstrate its remarkable murderous powers. If he was astonished before + he was a thousand times more so now, and expressed his belief that the + Wagogo could not stand before the Musungu in battle, for wherever a Mgogo + was seen such a gun would surely kill him. Then the other firearms were + brought forth, each with its peculiar mechanism explained, until, in, a + burst of enthusiasm at my riches and power, he said he would send me a + sheep or goat, and that he would be my brother. I thanked him for the + honour, and promised to accept whatever he was pleased to send me. At the + instigation of Sheikh Thani, who acted as interpreter, who said that + Wagogo chiefs must not depart with empty hands, I cut off a shukka of + Kaniki and presented it to him, which, after being examined and measured, + was refused upon the ground that, the Musungu being a great sultan should + not demean himself so much as to give him only a shukka. This, after the + twelve doti received as muhongo from the caravans, I thought, was rather + sore; but as he was about to present me with a sheep or goat another + shukka would not matter much. + </p> + <p> + Shortly after he departed, and true to his promise, I received a large, + fine sheep, with a broad tail, heavy with fat; but with the words: "That + being now his brother, I must send him three doti of good cloth." As the + price of a sheep is but a doti and a half, I refused the sheep and the + fraternal honour, upon the ground that the gifts were all on one side; and + that, as I had paid muhongo, and given him a doti of Kaniki as a present, + I could not, afford to part with any more cloth without an adequate + return. + </p> + <p> + During the afternoon one more of my donkeys died, and at night the hyaenas + came in great numbers to feast upon the carcase. Ulimengo, the chasseur, + and best shot of my Wangwana, stole out and succeeded in shooting two, + which turned out to be some of the largest of their kind.. One of them + measured six feet from the tip of the nose to the extremity of the tail, + and three feet around the girth. + </p> + <p> + On the 4th. June we struck camp, and after travelling westward for about + three miles, passing several ponds of salt water, we headed north by west, + skirting the range of low hills which separates Ugogo from Uyanzi. + </p> + <p> + After a three hours' march, we halted for a short time at Little + Mukondoku, to settle tribute with the brother of him who rules at + Mukondoku Proper. Three doti satisfied the Sultan, whose district contains + but two villages, mostly occupied by pastoral Wahumba and renegade Wahehe. + The Wahumba live in plastered (cow-dung) cone huts, shaped like the tartar + tents of Turkestan. + </p> + <p> + The Wahumba, so far as I have seen them, are a fine and well-formed race. + The men are positively handsome, tall, with small heads, the posterior + parts of which project considerably. One will look in vain for a thick lip + or a flat nose amongst them; on the contrary, the mouth is exceedingly + well cut, delicately small; the nose is that of the Greeks, and so + universal was the peculiar feature, that I at once named them the Greeks + of Africa. Their lower limbs have not the heaviness of the Wagogo and + other tribes, but are long and shapely, clean as those of an antelope. + Their necks are long and slender, on which their small heads are poised + most gracefully. Athletes from their youth, shepherd bred, and + intermarrying among themselves, thus keeping the race pure, any of them + would form a fit subject for the sculptor who would wish to immortalize in + marble an Antinous, a Hylas, a Daphnis, or an Apollo. The women are as + beautiful as the men are handsome. They have clear ebon skins, not + coal-black, but of an inky hue. Their ornaments consist of spiral rings of + brass pendent from the ears, brass ring collars about the necks, and a + spiral cincture of brass wire about their loins for the purpose of + retaining their calf and goat skins, which are folded about their bodies, + and, depending from the shoulder, shade one half of the bosom, and fall to + the knees. + </p> + <p> + The Wahehe may be styled the Romans of Africa. Resuming our march, after a + halt of an hour, in foul hours more we arrived at Mukondoku Proper. This + extremity of Ugogo is most populous, The villages which surround the + central tembe, where the Sultan Swaruru lives, amount to thirty-six. The + people who flocked from these to see the wonderful men whose faces were + white, who wore the most wonderful things on their persons, and possessed + the most wonderful weapons; guns which "bum-bummed" as fast as you could + count on your fingers, formed such a mob of howling savages, that I for an + instant thought there was something besides mere curiosity which caused + such commotion, and attracted such numbers to the roadside. Halting, I + asked what was the matter, and what they wanted, and why they made such + noise? One burly rascal, taking my words for a declaration of hostilities, + promptly drew his bow, but as prompt as he had fixed his arrow my faithful + Winchester with thirteen shots in the magazine was ready and at the + shoulder, and but waited to see the arrow fly to pour the leaden + messengers of death into the crowd. But the crowd vanished as quickly as + they had come, leaving the burly Thersites, and two or three irresolute + fellows of his tribe, standing within pistol range of my levelled rifle. + Such a sudden dispersion of the mob which, but a moment before, was + overwhelming in numbers, caused me to lower my rifle, and to indulge in a + hearty laugh at the disgraceful flight of the men-destroyers. The Arabs, + who were as much alarmed at their boisterous obtrusiveness, now came up to + patch a truce, in which they succeeded to everybody's satisfaction. A few + words of explanation, and the mob came back in greater numbers than + before; and the Thersites who had been the cause of the momentary + disturbance was obliged to retire abashed before the pressure of public + opinion. A chief now came up, whom I afterwards learned was the second man + to Swaruru, and lectured the people upon their treatment of the "White + Stranger." + </p> + <p> + "Know ye not, Wagogo," shouted he, "that this Musungu is a sultan (mtemi—a + most high title). He has not come to Ugogo like the Wakonongo (Arabs), to + trade in ivory, but to see us, and give presents. Why do you molest him + and his people? Let them pass in peace. If you wish to see him, draw near, + but do not mock him. The first of you who creates a disturbance, let him + beware; our great mtemi shall know how you treat his friends." This little + bit of oratorical effort on the part of the chief was translated to me + there and then by the old Sheik Thani; which having understood, I bade the + Sheikh inform the chief that, after I had rested, I should like him to + visit me in my tent. + </p> + <p> + Having arrived at the khambi, which always surrounds some great baobab in + Ugogo, at the distance of about half a mile from the tembe of the Sultan, + the Wagogo pressed in such great numbers to the camp that Sheikh Thani + resolved to make an effort to stop or mitigate the nuisance. Dressing + himself in his best clothes, he went to appeal to the Sultan for + protection against his people. The Sultan was very much inebriated, and + was pleased to say, "What is it you want, you thief? You have come to + steal my ivory or my cloth. Go away, thief!" But the sensible chief, whose + voice had just been heard reproaching the people for their treatment of + the Wasungu, beckoned to Thani to come out of the tembe, and then + proceeded with him towards the khambi. + </p> + <p> + The camp was in a great uproar; the curious Wagogo monopolized almost + every foot of ground; there was no room to turn anywhere. The Wanyamwezi + were quarreling with the Wagogo, the Wasawahili servants were clamoring + loud that the Wagogo pressed down their tents, and that the property of + the masters was in danger; while I, busy on my diary within my tent, cared + not how great was the noise and confusion outside as long as it confined + itself to the Wagogo, Wanyamwezi, and Wangwana. + </p> + <p> + The presence of the chief in the camp was followed by a deep silence that + I was prevailed upon to go outside to see what had caused it. The chief's + words were few, and to the point. He said, "To your tembes, Wagogo—to + your tembes! Why, do you come to trouble the Wakonongo: What have you to + do with them? To your tembes: go! Each Mgogo found in the khambi without + meal, without cattle to sell, shall pay to the mtemi cloth or cows. Away + with you!" Saying which, he snatched up a stick and drove the hundreds out + of the khambi, who were as obedient to him as so many children. During the + two days we halted at Mukondoku we saw no more of the mob, and there was + peace. + </p> + <p> + The muhongo of the Sultan Swaruru was settled with few words. The chief + who acted for the Sultan as his prime minister having been "made glad" + with a doti of Rehani Ulyah from me, accepted the usual tribute of six + doti, only one of which was of first-class cloth. + </p> + <p> + There remained but one more sultan to whom muhongo must be paid after + Mukondoku, and this was the Sultan of Kiwyeh, whose reputation was so bad + that owners of property who had control over their pagazis seldom passed + by Kiwyeh, preferring the hardships of long marches through the wilderness + to the rudeness and exorbitant demands of the chief of Kiwyeh. But the + pagazis, on whom no burden or responsibility fell save that of carrying + their loads, who could use their legs and show clean heels in the case of + a hostile outbreak, preferred the march to Kiwyeh to enduring thirst and + the fatigue of a terekeza. Often the preference of the pagazis won the + day, when their employers were timid, irresolute men, like Sheikh Hamed. + </p> + <p> + The 7th of June was the day fixed for our departure from Mukondoku, so the + day before, the Arabs came to my tent to counsel with me as to the route + we should adopt. On calling together the kirangozis of the respective + caravans and veteran Wanyamwezi pagazis, we learned there were three roads + leading from Mukondoku to Uyanzi. The first was the southern road, and the + one generally adopted, for the reasons already stated, and led by Kiwyeh. + To this Hamed raised objections. "The Sultan was bad," he said; "he + sometimes charged a caravan twenty doti; our caravan would have to pay + about sixty doti. The Kiwyeh road would not do at all. Besides," he added, + "we have to make a terekeza to reach Kiwyeh, and then we will not reach it + before the day after to-morrow." The second was the central road. We + should arrive at Munieka on the morrow; the day after would be a terekeza + from Mabunguru Nullah to a camp near Unyambogi; two hours the next day + would bring us to Kiti, where there was plenty of water and food. As + neither of the kirangozis or Arabs knew this road, and its description + came from one of my ancient pagazis, Hamed said he did not like to trust + the guidance of such a large caravan in the hands of an old Mnyamwezi, and + would therefore prefer to hear about the third road, before rendering his + decision. The third road was the northern. It led past numerous villages + of the Wagogo for the first two hours; then we should strike a jungle; and + a three hours' march would then bring us to Simbo, where there was water, + but no village. Starting early next morning, we would travel six hours + when we would arrive at a pool of water. Here taking a short rest, an + afternoon march of five hours would bring us within three hours of another + village. As this last road was known to many, Hamed said, "Sheikh Thani, + tell the Sahib that I think this is the best road." Sheikh Thani was told, + after he had informed me that, as I had marched with them through Ugogo, + if they decided upon going by Simbo, my caravan would follow. + </p> + <p> + Immediately after the discussion among the principals respecting the + merits of the several routes, arose a discussion among the pagazis which + resulted in an obstinate clamor against the Simbo road, for its long + terekeza and scant prospects of water, the dislike to the Simbo road + communicated itself to all the caravans, and soon it was magnified by + reports of a wilderness reaching from Simbo to Kusuri, where there was + neither food nor water to be obtained. Hamed's pagazis, and those of the + Arab servants, rose in a body and declared they could not go on that + march, and if Hamed insisted upon adopting it they would put their packs + down and leave him to carry them himself. + </p> + <p> + Hamed Kimiani, as he was styled by the Arabs, rushed up to Sheikh Thani, + and declared that he must take the Kiwyeh road, otherwise his pagazis + would all desert. Thani replied that all the roads were the same to him, + that wherever Hamed chose to go, he would follow. They then came to my + tent, and informed me of the determination at which the Wanyamwezi had + arrived. Calling my veteran Mnyamwezi, who had given me the favourable + report once more to my tent, I bade him give a correct account of the Kiti + road. It was so favourable that my reply to Hamed was, that I was the + master of my caravan, that it was to go wherever I told the kirangozi, not + where the pagazis chose; that when I told them to halt they must halt, and + when I commanded a march, a march should be made; and that as I fed them + well and did not overwork them, I should like to see the pagazi or soldier + that disobeyed me. "You made up your mind just now that you would take the + Simbo road, and we were agreed upon it, now your pagazis say they will + take, the Kiwyeh road, or desert. Go on the Kiwyeh road and pay twenty + doti muhongo. I and my caravan to-morrow morning will take the Kiti road, + and when you find me in Unyanyembe one day ahead of you, you will be sorry + you did not take the same road." + </p> + <p> + This resolution of mine had the effect of again changing the current of + Hamed's thoughts, for he instantly said, "That is the best road after all, + and as the Sahib is determined to go on it, and we have all travelled + together through the bad land of the Wagogo, Inshallah! let us all go the + same way," and Thani=-good old man—not objecting, and Hamed having + decided, they both joyfully went out of the tent to communicate the news. + </p> + <p> + On the 7th the caravans—apparently unanimous that the Kiti road was + to be taken—were led as usual by Hamed's kirangozi. We had barely + gone a mile before I perceived that we had left the Simbo road, had taken + the direction of Kiti, and, by a cunning detour, were now fast approaching + the defile of the mountain ridge before us, which admitted access to the + higher plateau of Kiwyeh. Instantly halting my caravan, I summoned the + veteran who had travelled by Kiti, and asked him whether we were not going + towards Kiwyeh. He replied that we were. Calling my pagazis together, I + bade Bombay tell them that the Musuugu never changed his mind; that as I + had said my caravan should march by Kiti; to Kiti it must go whether the + Arabs followed or not. I then ordered the veteran to take up his load and + show the kirangozi the proper road to Kiti. The Wanyamwezi pagazis put + down their bales, and then there was every indication of a mutiny. The + Wangwana soldiers were next ordered to load their guns and to flank the + caravan, and shoot the first pagazis who made an attempt to run away. + Dismounting, I seized my whip, and, advancing towards the first pagazi who + had put down his load, I motioned to him to take up his load and march. It + was unnecessary to proceed further; without an exception, all marched away + obediently after the kirangozi. I was about bidding farewell to Thani, and + Hamed, when Thani said, "Stop a bit, Sahib; I have had enough of this + child's play; I come with you," and his caravan was turned after mine. + Hamed's caravan was by this time close to the defile, and he himself was a + full mile behind it, weeping like a child at what he was pleased to call + our desertion of him. Pitying his strait—for he was almost beside + himself as thoughts of Kiwyeh's sultan, his extortion and rudeness, swept + across his mind—I advised him to run after his caravan, and tell it, + as all the rest had taken the other road, to think of the Sultan of + Kiwyeh. Before reaching the Kiti defile I was aware that Hamed's caravan + was following us. + </p> + <p> + The ascent of the ridge was rugged and steep, thorns of the prickliest + nature punished us severely, the <i>acacia horrida</i> was here more + horrid than usual, the gums stretched out their branches, and entangled + the loads, the mimosa with its umbrella-like top served to shade us from + the sun, but impeded a rapid advance. Steep outcrops of syenite and + granite, worn smooth by many feet, had to be climbed over, rugged terraces + of earth and rock had to be ascended, and distant shots resounding through + the forest added to the alarm and general discontent, and had I not been + immediately behind my caravan, watchful of every manoeuvre, my Wanyamwezi + had deserted to a man. Though the height we ascended was barely 800 feet + above the salina we had just left, the ascent occupied two hours. + </p> + <p> + Having surmounted the plateau and the worst difficulties, we had a fair + road comparatively, which ran through jungle, forest, and small open + tracts, which in three hours more brought us to Munieka, a small village, + surrounded by a clearing richly cultivated by a colony of subjects of + Swaruru of Mukondoku. + </p> + <p> + By the time we had arrived at camp everybody had recovered his good humour + and content except Hamed. Thani's men happened to set his tent too close + to Hamed's tree, around which his bales were stacked. Whether the little + Sheikh imagined honest old Thani capable of stealing one is not known, but + it is certain that he stormed and raved about the near neighbourhood of + his best friend's tent, until Thani ordered its removal a hundred yards + off. This proceeding even, it seems, did not satisfy Hamed, for it was + quite midnight—as Thani said—when Hamed came, and kissing his + hands and feet, on his knees implored forgiveness, which of course Thani, + being the soul of good-nature, and as large-hearted as any man, willingly + gave. Hamed was not satisfied, however, until, with the aid of his slaves, + he had transported his friend's tent to where it had at first been + pitched. + </p> + <p> + The water at Munieka was obtained from a deep depression in a hump of + syenite, and was as clear as crystal, and' cold as ice-water—a + luxury we had not experienced since leaving Simbamwenni. + </p> + <p> + We were now on the borders of Uyanzi, or, as it is better known, "Magunda + Mkali "—the Hot-ground, or Hot-field. We had passed the village + populated by Wagogo, and were about to shake the dust of Ugogo from our + feet. We had entered Ugogo full of hopes, believing it a most pleasant + land—a land flowing with milk and honey. We had been grievously + disappointed; it proved to be a land of gall and bitterness, full of + trouble and vexation of spirit, where danger was imminent at every step—where + we were exposed to the caprice of inebriated sultans. Is it a wonder, + then, that all felt happy at such a moment? With the prospect before us of + what was believed by many to be a real wilderness, our ardor was not + abated, but was rather strengthened. The wilderness in Africa proves to + be, in many instances, more friendly than the populated country. The + kirangozi blew his kudu horn much more merrily on this morning than he was + accustomed to do while in Ugogo. We were about to enter Magunda Mkali. At + 9 A.M., three hours after leaving Munieka, and two hours since we had left + the extreme limits of Ugogo, we were halted at Mabunguru Nullah. The + Nullah runs southwesterly after leaving its source in the chain of hills + dividing Ugogo from Magunda Mkali. During the rainy season it must be + nearly impassable, owing to the excessive slope of its bed. Traces of the + force of the torrent are seen in the syenite and basalt boulders which + encumber the course. Their rugged angles are worn smooth, and deep basins + are excavated where the bed is of the rock, which in the dry season serve + as reservoirs. Though the water contained in them has a slimy and greenish + appearance, and is well populated with frogs, it is by no means + unpalatable. + </p> + <p> + At noon we resumed our march, the Wanyamwezi cheering, shouting, and + singing, the Wangwana soldiers, servants, and pagazis vieing with them in + volume of voice and noise-making the dim forest through which we were now + passing resonant with their voices. + </p> + <p> + The scenery was much more picturesque than any we had yet seen since + leaving Bagamoyo. The ground rose into grander waves—hills cropped + out here and there—great castles of syenite appeared, giving a + strange and weird appearance to the forest. From a distance it would + almost seem as if we were approaching a bit of England as it must have + appeared during feudalism; the rocks assumed such strange fantastic + shapes. Now they were round boulders raised one above another, apparently + susceptible to every breath of wind; anon, they towered like blunt-pointed + obelisks, taller than the tallest trees; again they assumed the shape of + mighty waves, vitrified; here, they were a small heap of fractured and + riven rock; there, they rose to the grandeur of hills. + </p> + <p> + By 5 P.M. we had travelled twenty miles, and the signal was sounded for a + halt. At 1 A.M., the moon being up, Hamed's horn and voice were heard + throughout the silent camp awaking his pagazis for the march. Evidently + Sheikh Hamed was gone stark mad, otherwise why should he be so frantic for + the march at such an early hour? The dew was falling heavily, and chilled + one like frost; and an ominous murmur of deep discontent responded to the + early call on all sides. Presuming, however, that he had obtained better + information than we had, Sheikh Thani and I resolved to be governed as the + events proved him to be right or wrong. + </p> + <p> + As all were discontented, this night, march was performed in deep silence. + The thermometer was at 53°, we being about 4,500 feet above the level of + the sea. The pagazis, almost naked, walked quickly in order to keep warm, + and by so doing many a sore foot was made by stumbling against obtrusive + roots and rocks, and treading on thorns. At 3 A.M. we arrived at the + village of Unyambogi, where we threw ourselves down to rest and sleep + until dawn should reveal what else was in store for the hard-dealt-with + caravans. + </p> + <p> + It was broad daylight when I awoke; the sun was flaring his hot beams in + my face. Sheikh Thani came soon after to inform me that Hamed had gone to + Kiti two hours since; but he, when asked to accompany him, positively + refused, exclaiming against it as folly, and utterly unnecessary. When my + advice was asked by Thani, I voted the whole thing as sheer nonsense; and, + in turn, asked him what a terekeza was for? Was it not an afternoon march + to enable caravans to reach water and food? Thani replied than it was. I + then asked him if there was no water or food to be obtained in Unyambogi. + Thani replied that he had not taken pains to inquire, but was told by the + villagers that there was an abundance of matamia, hindi, maweri, sheep; + goats, and chickens in their village at cheap prices, such as were not + known in Ugogo. + </p> + <p> + "Well, then," said I, "if Hamed wants to be a fool, and kill his pagazis, + why should we? I have as much cause for haste as Sheikh Hamed; but + Unyanyembe is far yet, and I am not going to endanger my property by + playing the madman." + </p> + <p> + As Thani had reported, we found an abundance of provisions at the village, + and good sweet water from some pits close by. A sheep cost one chukka; six + chickens were also purchased at that price; six measures of matama, + maweri, or hindi, were procurable for the same sum; in short, we were + coming, at last, into the land of plenty. + </p> + <p> + On the 10th June we arrived at Kiti after a journey of four hours and a + half, where we found the irrepressible Hamed halted in sore trouble. He + who would be a Caesar, proved to be an irresolute Antony. He had to sorrow + over the death of a favourite slave girl, the loss of five dish-dashes + (Arab shirts), silvered-sleeve and gold-embroidered jackets, with which he + had thought to enter Unyanyembe in state, as became a merchant of his + standing, which had disappeared with three absconding servants, besides + copper trays, rice, and pilau dishes, and two bales of cloth with runaway + Wangwana pagazis. Selim, my Arab servant, asked him, "What are you doing + here, Sheikh Hamed? I thought you were well on the road to Unyanyembe." + Said he, "Could I leave Thani, my friend, behind?" + </p> + <p> + Kiti abounded in cattle and grain, and we were able to obtain food at easy + rates. The Wakimbu, emigrants from Ukimbu, near Urori, are a quiet race, + preferring the peaceful arts of agriculture to war; of tending their + flocks to conquest. At the least rumor of war they remove their property + and family, and emigrate to the distant wilderness, where they begin to + clear the land, and to hunt the elephant for his ivory. Yet we found them + to be a fine race, and well armed, and seemingly capable, by their numbers + and arms, to compete with any tribe. But here, as elsewhere, disunion + makes them weak. They are mere small colonies, each colony ruled by its + own chief; whereas, were they united, they might make a very respectable + front before an enemy. + </p> + <p> + Our next destination was Msalalo, distant fifteen miles from Kiti. Hamed, + after vainly searching for his runaways and the valuable property he had + lost, followed us, and tried once more, when he saw us encamped at + Msalalo, to pass us; but his pagazis failed him, the march having been so + long. + </p> + <p> + Welled Ngaraiso was reached on the 15th, after a three and a half hours' + march. It is a flourishing little place, where provisions were almost + twice as cheap as they were at Unyambogi. Two hours' march south is Jiweh + la Mkoa, on the old road, towards which the road which we have been + travelling since leaving Bagamoyo was now rapidly leading. + </p> + <p> + Unyanyembe being near, the pagazis and soldiers having behaved excellently + during the lengthy marches we had lately made, I purchased a bullock for + three doti, and had it slaughtered for their special benefit. I also gave + each a khete of red beads to indulge his appetite for whatever little + luxury the country afforded. Milk and honey were plentiful, and three + frasilah of sweet potatoes were bought for a shukka, equal to about 40 + cents of our money. + </p> + <p> + The 13th June brought us to the last village of Magunda Mkali, in the + district of Jiweh la Singa, after a short march of eight miles and + three-quarters. Kusuri—so called by the Arabs—is called + Konsuli by the Wakimbu who inhabit it. This is, however, but one instance + out of many where the Arabs have misnamed or corrupted the native names of + villages and districts. + </p> + <p> + Between Ngaraiso and Kusuri we passed the village of Kirurumo, now a + thriving place, with many a thriving village near it. As we passed it, the + people came out to greet the Musungu, whose advent had been so long + heralded by his loud-mouthed caravans, and whose soldiers had helped them + win the day in a battle against their fractious brothers of Jiweh la Mkoa. + </p> + <p> + A little further on we came across a large khambi, occupied by Sultan bin + Mohammed, an Omani Arab of high descent, who, as soon as he was notified + of my approach, came out to welcome me, and invite me to his khambi. As + his harem lodged in his tent, of course I was not invited thither; but a + carpet outside was ready for his visitor. After the usual questions had + been asked about my health, the news of the road, the latest from Zanzibar + and Oman, he asked me if I had much cloth with me. This was a question + often asked by owners of down caravans, and the reason of it is that the + Arabs, in their anxiety to make as much as possible of their cloth at the + ivory ports on the Tanganika and elsewhere, are liable to forget that they + should retain a portion for the down marches. As, indeed, I had but a bale + left of the quantity of cloth retained for provisioning my party on the + road, when outfitting my caravans on the coast, I could unblushingly reply + in the negative. + </p> + <p> + I halted a day at Kusuri to give my caravan a rest, after its long series + of marches, before venturing on the two days' march through the + uninhabited wilderness that separates the district of Jiweh la Singa + Uyanzi from the district of Tura in Unyanyembe. Hamed preceded, promising + to give Sayd bin Salim notice of my coming, and to request him to provide + a tembe for me. + </p> + <p> + On the 15th, having ascertained that Sheikh Thani would be detained + several days at Kusuri, owing to the excessive number of his people who + were laid up with that dreadful plague of East Africa, the small-pox, I + bade him farewell, and my caravan struck out of Kusuri once more for the + wilderness and the jungle. A little before noon we halted at the Khambi of + Mgongo Tembo, or the Elephant's Back—so called from a wave of rock + whose back, stained into dark brownness by atmospheric influences, is + supposed by the natives to resemble the blue-brown back of this monster of + the forest. My caravan had quite an argument with me here, as to whether + we should make the terekeza on this day or on the next. The majority was + of the opinion that the next day would be the best for a terekeza; but I, + being the "bana," consulting my own interests, insisted, not without a + flourish or two of my whip, that the terekeza should be made on this day. + </p> + <p> + Mgongo Tembo, when Burton and Speke passed by, was a promising settlement, + cultivating many a fair acre of ground. But two years ago war broke out, + for some bold act of its people upon caravans, and the Arabs came from + Unyanyembe with their Wangwana servants, attacked them, burnt the + villages, and laid waste the work of years. Since that time Mgongo Tembo + has been but blackened wrecks of houses, and the fields a sprouting + jungle. + </p> + <p> + A cluster of date palm-trees, overtopping a dense grove close to the mtoni + of Mgongo Tembo, revived my recollections of Egypt. The banks of the + stream, with their verdant foliage, presented a strange contrast to the + brown and dry appearance of the jungle which lay on either side. + </p> + <p> + At 1 P.M. we resumed our loads and walking staffs, and in a short time + were en route for the Ngwhalah Mtoni, distant eight and three-quarter + miles from the khambi. The sun was hot; like a globe of living, seething + flame, it flared its heat full on our heads; then as it descended towards + the west, scorched the air before it was inhaled by the lungs which craved + it. Gourds of water were emptied speedily to quench the fierce heat that + burned the throat and lungs. One pagazi, stricken heavily with the + small-pox, succumbed, and threw himself down on the roadside to die. We + never saw him afterwards, for the progress of a caravan on a terekeza, is + something like that of a ship in a hurricane. The caravan must proceed—woe + befall him who lags behind, for hunger and thirst will overtake him—so + must a ship drive before the fierce gale to escape foundering—woe + befall him who falls overboard! + </p> + <p> + An abundance of water, good, sweet, and cool, was found in the bed of the + mtoni in deep stony reservoirs. Here also the traces of furious torrents + were clearly visible as at Mabunguru. + </p> + <p> + The Nghwhalah commences in Ubanarama to the north—a country famous + for its fine breed of donkeys—and after running south, + south-south-west, crosses the Unyanyembe road, from which point it has + more of a westerly turn. + </p> + <p> + On the 16th we arrived at Madedita, so called from a village which was, + but is now no more. Madedita is twelve and a half miles from the Nghwhalah + Mtoni. A pool of good water a few hundred yards from the roadside is the + only supply caravans can obtain, nearer than Tura in Unyamwezi. The tsetse + or chufwa-fly, as called by the Wasawahili, stung us dreadfully, which is + a sign that large game visit the pool sometimes, but must not be mistaken + for an indication that there is any in the immediate neighbourhood of the + water. A single pool so often frequented by passing caravans, which must + of necessity halt here, could not be often visited by the animals of the + forest, who are shy in this part of Africa of the haunts of man. + </p> + <p> + At dawn the neat day we were on the road striding at a quicker pace than + on most days, since we were about to quit Magunda Mali for the more + populated and better land of Unyamwezi. The forest held its own for a + wearisomely long time, but at the end of two hours it thinned, then + dwarfed into low jungle, and finally vanished altogether, and we had + arrived on the soil of Unyamwezi, with a broad plain, swelling, subsiding, + and receding in lengthy and grand undulations in our front to one + indefinite horizontal line which purpled in the far distance. The view + consisted of fields of grain ripening, which followed the contour of the + plain, and which rustled merrily before the morning breeze that came laden + with the chills of Usagara. + </p> + <p> + At 8 A.M. we had arrived at the frontier village of Unyamwezi, Eastern + Tura, which we invaded without any regard to the disposition of the few + inhabitants who lived there. Here we found Nondo, a runaway of Speke's, + one of those who had sided with Baraka against Bombay, who, desiring to + engage himself with me, was engaging enough to furnish honey and sherbet + to his former companions, and lastly to the pagazis. It was only a short + breathing pause we made here, having another hour's march to reach Central + Tura. + </p> + <p> + The road from Eastern Tura led through vast fields of millet, Indian corn, + holcus sorghum, maweri, or panicum, or bajri, as called by the Arabs; + gardens of sweet potatoes, large tracts of cucumbers, water-melons, + mush-melons, and pea-nuts which grew in the deep furrows between the + ridges of the holcus. + </p> + <p> + Some broad-leafed plantain plants were also seen in the neighbourhood of + the villages, which as we advanced became very numerous. The villages of + the Wakimbu are like those of the Wagogo, square, flat-roofed, enclosing + an open area, which is sometimes divided into three or four parts by + fences or matama stalks. + </p> + <p> + At central Tura, where we encamped, we had evidence enough of the + rascality of the Wakimbu of Tura. Hamed, who, despite his efforts to reach + Unyanyembe in time to sell his cloths before other Arabs came with cloth + supplies, was unable to compel his pagazis to the double march every day, + was also encamped at Central Tura, together with the Arab servants who + preferred Hamed's imbecile haste to Thani's cautious advance. Our first + night in Unyamwezi was very exciting indeed. The Musungu's camp was + visited by two crawling thieves, but they were soon made aware by the + portentous click of a trigger that the white man's camp was well guarded. + </p> + <p> + Hamed's camp was next visited; but here also the restlessness of the owner + frustrated their attempts, for he was pacing backwards and forwards + through his camp, with a loaded gun in his hand; and the thieves were + obliged to relinquish the chance of stealing any of his bales. From + Hamed's they proceeded to Hassan's camp (one of the Arab servants), where + they were successful enough to reach and lay hold of a couple of bales; + but, unfortunately, they made a noise, which awoke the vigilant and + quick-eared slave, who snatched his loaded musket, and in a moment had + shot one of them through the heart. Such were our experiences of the + Wakimbu of Tura. + </p> + <p> + On the 18th the three caravans, Hamed's, Hassan's, and my own, left Tura + by a road which zig-zagged towards all points through the tall matama + fields. In an hour's time we had passed Tura Perro, or Western Tura, and + had entered the forest again, whence the Wakimbu of Tura obtain their + honey, and where they excavate deep traps for the elephants with which the + forest is said to abound. An hour's march from Western Tura brought us to + a ziwa, or pond. There were two, situated in the midst of a small open + mbuga, or plain, which, even at this late season, was yet soft from the + water which overflows it during the rainy season. After resting three + hours, we started on the terekeza, or afternoon march. + </p> + <p> + It was one and the same forest that we had entered soon after leaving + Western Tura, that we travelled through until we reached the Kwala Mtoni, + or, as Burton has misnamed it on his map, "Kwale." The water of this mtoni + is contained in large ponds, or deep depressions in the wide and crooked + gully of Kwala. In these ponds a species of mud-fish, was found, off one + of which I made a meal, by no means to be despised by one who had not + tasted fish since leaving Bagamoyo. Probably, if I had my choice, being, + when occasion demands it, rather fastidious in my tastes, I would not + select the mud-fish. + </p> + <p> + From Tura to the Kwala Mtoni is seventeen and a half miles, a distance + which, however easy it may be traversed once a fortnight, assumes a + prodigious length when one has to travel it almost every other day, at + least, so my pagazis, soldiers, and followers found it, and their murmurs + were very loud when I ordered the signal to be sounded on the march. Abdul + Kader, the tailor who had attached himself to me, as a man ready-handed at + all things, from mending a pair of pants, making a delicate entremets, or + shooting an elephant, but whom the interior proved to be the weakliest of + the weakly, unfit for anything except eating and drinking—-almost + succumbed on this march. + </p> + <p> + Long ago the little stock of goods which Abdul had brought from Zanzibar + folded in a pocket-handkerchief, and with which he was about to buy ivory + and slaves, and make his fortune in the famed land of Unyamwezi, had + disappeared with the great eminent hopes he had built on them, like those + of Alnaschar the unfortunate owner of crockery in the Arabian tale. He + came to me as we prepared for the march, with a most dolorous tale about + his approaching death, which he felt in his bones, and weary back: his + legs would barely hold him up; in short, he had utterly collapsed—would + I take mercy on him, and let him depart? The cause of this extraordinary + request, so unlike the spirit with which he had left Zanzibar, eager to + possess the ivory and slaves of Unyamwezi, was that on the last long + march, two of my donkeys being dead, I had ordered that the two saddles + which they had carried should be Abdul Kader's load to Unyanyembe. The + weight of the saddles was 16 lbs., as the spring balance-scale indicated, + yet Abdul Kader became weary of life, as, he counted the long marches that + intervened between the mtoni and Unyanyembe. On the ground he fell prone, + to kiss my feet, begging me in the name of God to permit him to depart. + </p> + <p> + As I had had some experience of Hindoos, Malabarese, and coolies in + Abyssinia, I knew exactly how to deal with a case like this. + Unhesitatingly I granted the request as soon as asked, for as much tired + as Abdul Kader said he was of life, I was with Abdul Kader's + worthlessness. But the Hindi did not want to be left in the jungle, he + said, but, after arriving in Unyanyembe. "Oh," said I, "then you must + reach Unyanyembe first; in the meanwhile you will carry those saddles + there for the food which you must eat." + </p> + <p> + As the march to Rubuga was eighteen and three-quarter miles, the pagazis + walked fast and long without resting. + </p> + <p> + Rubuga, in the days of Burton, according to his book, was a prosperous + district. Even when we passed, the evidences of wealth and prosperity + which it possessed formerly, were plain enough in the wide extent of its + grain fields, which stretched to the right and left of the Unyanyembe road + for many a mile. But they were only evidences of what once were numerous + villages, a well-cultivated and populous district, rich in herds of cattle + and stores of grain. All the villages are burnt down, the people have been + driven north three or four days from Rubuga, the cattle were taken by + force, the grain fields were left standing, to be overgrown with jungle + and rank weeds. We passed village after village that had been burnt, and + were mere blackened heaps of charred timber and smoked clay; field after + field of grain ripe years ago was yet standing in the midst of a crop of + gums and thorns, mimosa and kolquall. + </p> + <p> + We arrived at the village, occupied by about sixty Wangwana, who have + settled here to make a living by buying and selling ivory. Food is + provided for them in the deserted fields of the people of Rubuga. We were + very tired and heated from the long march, but the pagazis had all arrived + by 3 p.m. + </p> + <p> + At the Wangwana village we met Amer bin Sultan, the very type of an old + Arab sheikh, such as we read of in books, with a snowy beard, and a clean + reverend face, who was returning to Zanzibar after a ten years' residence + in Unyanyembe. He presented me with a goat; and a goatskin full of rice; a + most acceptable gift in a place where a goat costs five cloths. + </p> + <p> + After a day's halt at Rubuga, during which I despatched soldiers to notify + Sheikh Sayd bin Salim and Sheikh bin Nasib, the two chief dignitaries of + Unyanyembe, of my coming, on the 21st of June we resumed the march for + Kigwa, distant five hours. The road ran through another forest similar to + that which separated Tura from Rubuga, the country rapidly sloping as we + proceeded westward. Kigwa we found to have been visited by the same + vengeance which rendered Rubuga such a waste. + </p> + <p> + The next day, after a three and a half hours' rapid march, we crossed the + mtoni—which was no mtoni—separating Kigwa from Unyanyembe + district, and after a short halt to quench our thirst, in three and a half + hours more arrived at Shiza. It was a most delightful march, though a long + one, for its picturesqueness of scenery which every few minutes was + revealed, and the proofs we everywhere saw of the peaceable and + industrious disposition of the people. A short half hour from Shiza we + beheld the undulating plain wherein the Arabs have chosen to situate the + central depot which commands such wide and extensive field of trade. The + lowing of cattle and the bleating of the goats and sheep were everywhere + heard, giving the country a happy, pastoral aspect. + </p> + <p> + The Sultan of Shiza desired me to celebrate my arrival in Unyanyembe, with + a five-gallon jar of pombe, which he brought for that purpose. + </p> + <p> + As the pombe was but stale ale in taste, and milk and water in colour, + after drinking a small glassful I passed it to the delighted soldiers and + pagazis. At my request the Sultan brought a fine fat bullock, for which he + accepted four and a half doti of Merikani. The bullock was immediately + slaughtered and served out to the caravan as a farewell feast. + </p> + <p> + No one slept much that night, and long before the dawn the fires were lit, + and great steaks were broiling, that their stomachs might rejoice before + parting with the Musungu, whose bounty they had so often tasted. Six + rounds of powder were served to each soldier and pagazi who owned a gun, + to fire away when we should be near the Arab houses. The meanest pagazi + had his best cloth about his loins, and some were exceedingly brave in + gorgeous Ulyah "Coombeesa Poonga" and crimson "Jawah," the glossy + "Rehani," and the neat "Dabwani." The soldiers were mustered in new + tarbooshes, and the long white shirts of the Mrima and the Island. For + this was the great and happy day which had been on our tongues ever since + quitting the coast, for which we had made those noted marches latterly—one + hundred and seventy-eight and a half miles in sixteen days, including + pauses—something over eleven miles a day. + </p> + <p> + The signal sounded and the caravan was joyfully off with banners flying, + and trumpets and horns blaring. A short two and a half hours' march + brought us within sight of Kwikuru, which is about two miles south of + Tabora, the main Arab town; on the outside of which we saw a long line of + men in clean shirts, whereat we opened our charged batteries, and fired a + volley of small arms such as Kwikuru seldom heard before. The pagazis + closed up and adopted the swagger of veterans: the soldiers blazed away + uninterruptedly, while I, seeing that the Arabs were advancing towards me, + left the ranks, and held out my hand, which was immediately grasped by + Sheikh Sayd bin Salim, and then by about two dozen people, and thus our + entrée into Unyanyembe was effected. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0008" id="link2HCH0008"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER VIII. — MY LIFE AND TROUBLES DURING MY RESIDENCE IN UNYAS + NYEMBE. I BECOME ENGAGED IN A WAR. + </h2> + <p> + I received a noiseless ovation as I walked side by side with the governor, + Sayd bin Salim, towards his tembe in Kwikuru, or the capital. The + Wanyamwezi pagazis were out by hundreds, the warriors of Mkasiwa, the + sultan, hovered around their chief, the children were seen between the + legs of their parents, even infants, a few months old, slung over their + mothers' backs, all paid the tribute due to my colour, with one grand + concentrated stare. The only persons who talked with me were the Arabs, + and aged Mkasiwa, ruler of Unyanyembe. + </p> + <p> + Sayd bin Salim's house was at the north-western corner of the inclosure, a + stockaded boma of Kwikuru. We had tea made in a silver tea-pot, and a + bountiful supply of "dampers" were smoking under a silver cover; and to + this repast I was invited. When a man has walked eight miles or so without + any breakfast, and a hot tropical sun has been shining on him for three or + four hours, he is apt to do justice to a meal, especially if his appetite + is healthy. I think I astonished the governor by the dexterous way in + which I managed to consume eleven cups of his aromatic concoction of an + Assam herb, and the easy effortless style with which I demolished his high + tower of "slap jacks," that but a minute or so smoked hotly under their + silver cover. + </p> + <p> + For the meal, I thanked the Sheikh, as only an earnest and sincerely + hungry man, now satisfied, could thank him. Even if I had not spoken, my + gratified looks had well informed him, under what obligations I had been + laid to him. + </p> + <p> + Out came my pipe and tobacco-pouch. + </p> + <p> + "My friendly Sheikh, wilt thou smoke?" + </p> + <p> + "No, thanks! Arabs never smoke." + </p> + <p> + "Oh, if you don't, perhaps you would not object to me smoking, in order to + assist digestion?" + </p> + <p> + "Ngema—good—go on, master." + </p> + <p> + Then began the questions, the gossipy, curious, serious, light questions: + </p> + <p> + "How came the master? + </p> + <p> + "By the Mpwapwa road." + </p> + <p> + "It is good. Was the Makata bad?" + </p> + <p> + "Very bad." + </p> + <p> + "What news from Zanzibar?" + </p> + <p> + "Good; Syed Toorkee has possession of Muscat, and Azim bin Ghis was slain + in the streets." + </p> + <p> + "Is this true, Wallahi?" (by God.) + </p> + <p> + "It is true." + </p> + <p> + "Heh-heh-h! This is news!"—stroking his beard. + </p> + <p> + "Have you heard, master, of Suleiman bin Ali?" + </p> + <p> + "Yes, the Bombay governor sent him to Zanzibar, in a man-of-war, and + Suleiman bin Ali now lies in the gurayza (fort)." + </p> + <p> + "Heh, that is very good." + </p> + <p> + "Did you have to pay much tribute to the Wagogo?" + </p> + <p> + "Eight times; Hamed Kimiani wished me to go by Kiwyeh, but I declined, and + struck through the forest to Munieka. Hamed and Thani thought it better to + follow me, than brave Kiwyeh by themselves." + </p> + <p> + "Where is that Hajji Abdullah (Captain Burton) that came here, and Spiki?" + (Speke.) + </p> + <p> + "Hajji Abdullah! What Hajji Abdullah? Ah! Sheikh Burton we call him. Oh, + he is a great man now; a balyuz (a consul) at El Scham" (Damascus.) + </p> + <p> + "Heh-heh; balyuz! Heh, at El Scham! Is not that near Betlem el Kuds?" + (Jerusalem.) + </p> + <p> + "Yes, about four days. Spiki is dead. He shot himself by accident." + </p> + <p> + "Ah, ah, Wallah (by God), but this is bad news. Spiki dead? Mash-Allah! + Ough, he was a good man—a good man! Dead!" + </p> + <p> + "But where is this Kazeh, Sheikh Sayd?" + </p> + <p> + "Kazeh? Kazeh? I never heard the name before." + </p> + <p> + "But you were with Burton, and Speke, at Kazeh; you lived there several + months, when you were all stopping in Unyanyembe; it must be close here; + somewhere. Where did Hajji Abdullah and Spiki live when they were in + Unyanyembe? Was it not in Musa Mzuri's house?" + </p> + <p> + "That was in Tabora." + </p> + <p> + "Well, then, where is Kazeh? I have never seen the man yet who could tell + me where that place is, and yet the three white men have that word down, + as the name of the place they lived at when you were with them. You must + know where it is." + </p> + <p> + "Wallahi, bana, I never heard the name; but stop, Kazeh, in Kinyamwezi, + means 'kingdom.' Perhaps they gave that name to the place they stopped at. + But then, I used to call the first house Sny bin Amer's house, and Speke + lived at Musa Mzuri's house, but both houses, as well as all the rest, are + in Tabora." + </p> + <p> + "Thank you, sheikh. I should like to go and look after my people; they + must all be wanting food." + </p> + <p> + "I shall go with you to show you your house. The tembe is in Kwihara, only + an hour's walk from Tabora." + </p> + <p> + On leaving Kwikuru we crossed a low ridge, and soon saw Kwihara lying + between two low ranges of hills, the northernmost of which was terminated + westward by the round fortress-like hill of Zimbili. There was a cold + glare of intense sunshine over the valley, probably the effect of an + universal bleakness or an autumnal ripeness of the grass, unrelieved by + any depth of colour to vary the universal sameness. The hills were + bleached, or seemed to be, under that dazzling sunshine, and clearest + atmosphere. The corn had long been cut, and there lay the stubble, and + fields,—a browny-white expanse; the houses were of mud, and their + fiat roofs were of mud, and the mud was of a browny-whiteness; the huts + were thatched, and the stockades around them of barked timber, and these + were of a browny whiteness. The cold, fierce, sickly wind from the + mountains of Usagara sent a deadly chill to our very marrows, yet the + intense sunshiny glare never changed, a black cow or two, or a tall tree + here and there, caught the eye for a moment, but they never made one + forget that the first impression of Kwihara was as of a picture without + colour, or of food without taste; and if one looked up, there was a sky of + a pale blue, spotless, and of an awful serenity. + </p> + <p> + As I approached the tembe of Sayd bin Salim, Sheikh bin Nasib and other + great Arabs joined us. Before the great door of the tembe the men had + stacked the bales, and piled the boxes, and were using their tongues at a + furious rate, relating to the chiefs and soldiers of the first, second, + and fourth caravans the many events which had befallen them, and which + seemed to them the only things worth relating. Outside of their own + limited circles they evidently cared for nothing. Then the several chiefs + of the other caravans had in turn to relate their experiences of the road; + and the noise of tongues was loud and furious. But as we approached, all + this loud-sounding gabble ceased, and my caravan chiefs and guides rushed + to me to hail me as "master," and to salute me as their friend. One + fellow, faithful Baruti, threw himself at my feet, the others fired their + guns and acted like madmen suddenly become frenzied, and a general cry of + "welcome" was heard on all sides. + </p> + <p> + "Walk in, master, this is your house, now; here are your men's quarters; + here you will receive the great Arabs, here is the cook-house; here is the + store-house; here is the prison for the refractory; here are your white + man's apartments; and these are your own: see, here is the bedroom, here + is the gun-room, bath-room, &c.;" so Sheikh Sayd talked, as he showed + me the several places. + </p> + <p> + On my honour, it was a most comfortable place, this, in Central Africa. + One could almost wax poetic, but we will keep such ambitious ideas for a + future day. Just now, however, we must have the goods stored, and the + little army of carriers paid off and disbanded. + </p> + <p> + Bombay was ordered to unlock the strong store-room, to pile the bales in + regular tiers, the beads in rows one above another, and the wire in a + separate place. The boats, canvas, &c., were to be placed high above + reach of white ants, and the boxes of ammunition and powder kegs were to + be stored in the gun-room, out of reach of danger. Then a bale of cloth + was opened, and each carrier was rewarded according to his merits, that + each of them might proceed home to his friends and neighbours, and tell + them how much better the white man behaved than the Arabs. + </p> + <p> + The reports of the leaders of the first, second, and fourth caravans were + then received, their separate stores inspected, and the details and events + of their marches heard. The first caravan had been engaged in a war at + Kirurumo, and had come out of the fight successful, and had reached + Unyanyembe without loss of anything. The second had shot a thief in the + forest between Pembera Pereh and Kididimo; the fourth had lost a bale in + the jungle of Marenga Mkali, and the porter who carried it had received a + "very sore head" from a knob stick wielded by one of the thieves, who + prowl about the jungle near the frontier of Ugogo. I was delighted to find + that their misfortunes were no more, and each leader was then and there + rewarded with one handsome cloth, and five doti of Merikani. + </p> + <p> + Just as I began to feel hungry again, came several slaves in succession, + bearing trays full of good things from the Arabs; first an enormous dish + of rice, with a bowlful of curried chicken, another with a dozen huge + wheaten cakes, another with a plateful of smoking hot crullers, another + with papaws, another with pomegranates and lemons; after these came men + driving five fat hump backed oxen, eight sheep, and ten goats, and another + man with a dozen chickens, and a dozen fresh eggs. This was real, + practical, noble courtesy, munificent hospitality, which quite took my + gratitude by storm. + </p> + <p> + My people, now reduced to twenty-five, were as delighted at the prodigal + plenitude visible on my tables and in my yard, as I was myself. And as I + saw their eyes light up at the unctuous anticipations presented to them by + their riotous fancies, I ordered a bullock to be slaughtered and + distributed. + </p> + <p> + The second day of the arrival of the Expedition in the country which I now + looked upon as classic ground, since Capts. Burton, Speke, and Grant years + ago had visited it, and described it, came the Arab magnates from Tabora + to congratulate me. + </p> + <p> + Tabora* is the principal Arab settlement in Central Africa. It contains + over a thousand huts and tembes, and one may safely estimate the + population, Arabs, Wangwana, and natives, at five thousand people. Between + Tabora and the next settlement, Kwihara, rise two rugged hill ridges, + separated from each other by a low saddle, over the top of which Tabora is + always visible from Kwihara. ________________ * There is no such + recognised place as Kazeh. ________________ + </p> + <p> + They were a fine, handsome body of men, these Arabs. They mostly hailed + from Oman: others were Wasawahili; and each of my visitors had quite a + retinue with him. At Tabora they live quite luxuriously. The plain on + which the settlement is situated is exceedingly fertile, though naked of + trees; the rich pasturage it furnishes permits them to keep large herds of + cattle and goats, from which they have an ample supply of milk, cream, + butter, and ghee. Rice is grown everywhere; sweet potatoes, yams, muhogo, + holcus sorghum, maize, or Indian corn, sesame, millet, field-peas, or + vetches, called choroko, are cheap, and always procurable. Around their + tembes the Arabs cultivate a little wheat for their own purposes, and have + planted orange, lemon, papaw, and mangoes, which thrive here fairly well. + Onions and garlic, chilies, cucumbers, tomatoes, and brinjalls, may be + procured by the white visitor from the more important Arabs, who are + undoubted epicureans in their way. Their slaves convey to them from the + coast, once a year at least, their stores of tea, coffee sugar, spices, + jellies, curries, wine, brandy, biscuits, sardines, salmon, and such fine + cloths and articles as they require for their own personal use. Almost + every Arab of any eminence is able to show a wealth of Persian carpets, + and most luxurious bedding, complete tea and coffee-services, and + magnificently carved dishes of tinned copper and brass lavers. Several of + them sport gold watches and chains, mostly all a watch and chain of some + kind. And, as in Persia, Afghanistan, and Turkey, the harems form an + essential feature of every Arab's household; the sensualism of the + Mohammedans is as prominent here as in the Orient. + </p> + <p> + The Arabs who now stood before the front door of my tembe were the donors + of the good things received the day before. As in duty bound, of course, I + greeted Sheikh Sayd first, then Sheikh bin Nasib, his Highness of + Zanzibar's consul at Karagwa, then I greeted the noblest Trojan amongst + the Arab population, noblest in bearing, noblest in courage and manly + worth—Sheikh Khamis bin Abdullah; then young Amram bin Mussoud, who + is now making war on the king of Urori and his fractious people; then + handsome, courageous Soud, the son of Sayd bin Majid; then dandified Thani + bin Abdullah; then Mussoud bin Abdullah and his cousin Abdullah bin + Mussoud, who own the houses where formerly lived Burton and Speke; then + old Suliman Dowa, Sayd bin Sayf, and the old Hetman of Tabora—Sheikh + Sultan bin Ali. + </p> + <p> + As the visit of these magnates, under whose loving protection white + travellers must needs submit themselves, was only a formal one, such as + Arab etiquette, ever of the stateliest and truest, impelled them to, it is + unnecessary to relate the discourse on my health, and their wealth, my + thanks, and their professions of loyalty, and attachment to me. After + having expended our mutual stock of congratulations and nonsense, they + departed, having stated their wish that I should visit them at Tabora and + partake of a feast which they were about to prepare for me. + </p> + <p> + Three days afterwards I sallied out of my tembe, escorted by eighteen + bravely dressed men of my escort, to pay Tabora a visit. On surmounting + the saddle over which the road from the valley of Kwihara leads to Tabora, + the plain on which the Arab settlement is situated lay before us, one + expanse of dun pasture land, stretching from the base of the hill on our + left as far as the banks of the northern Gombe, which a few miles beyond + Tabora heave into purple-coloured hills and blue cones. + </p> + <p> + Within three-quarters of an hour we were seated on the mud veranda of the + tembe of Sultan bin Ali, who, because of his age, his wealth, and position—being + a colonel in Seyd Burghash's unlovely army—is looked upon by his + countrymen, high and low, as referee and counsellor. His boma or enclosure + contains quite a village of hive-shaped huts and square tembes. From here, + after being presented with a cup of Mocha coffee, and some sherbet, we + directed our steps towards Khamis bin Abdullah's house, who had, in + anticipation of my coming, prepared a feast to which he had invited his + friends and neighbours. The group of stately Arabs in their long white + dresses, and jaunty caps, also of a snowy white, who stood ready to + welcome me to Tabora, produced quite an effect on my mind. I was in time + for a council of war they were holding—and I was requested to + attend. + </p> + <p> + Khamis bin Abdullah, a bold and brave man, ever ready to stand up for the + privileges of the Arabs, and their rights to pass through any countries + for legitimate trade, is the man who, in Speke's 'Journal of the Discovery + of the Source of the Nile,' is reported to have shot Maula, an old chief + who sided with Manwa Sera during the wars of 1860; and who subsequently, + after chasing his relentless enemy for five years through Ugogo and + Unyamwezi as far as Ukonongo, had the satisfaction of beheading him, was + now urging the Arabs to assert their rights against a chief called Mirambo + of Uyoweh, in a crisis which was advancing. + </p> + <p> + This Mirambo of Uyoweh, it seems, had for the last few years been in a + state of chronic discontent with the policies of the neighbouring chiefs. + Formerly a pagazi for an Arab, he had now assumed regal power, with the + usual knack of unconscionable rascals who care not by what means they step + into power. When the chief of Uyoweh died, Mirambo, who was head of a gang + of robbers infesting the forests of Wilyankuru, suddenly entered Uyoweh, + and constituted himself lord paramount by force. Some feats of enterprise, + which he performed to the enrichment of all those who recognised his + authority, established him firmly in his position. This was but a + beginning; he carried war through Ugara to Ukonongo, through Usagozi to + the borders of Uvinza, and after destroying the populations over three + degrees of latitude, he conceived a grievance against Mkasiwa, and against + the Arabs, because they would not sustain him in his ambitious projects + against their ally and friend, with whom they were living in peace. + </p> + <p> + The first outrage which this audacious man committed against the Arabs was + the halting of an Ujiji-bound caravan, and the demand for five kegs of + gunpowder, five guns, and five bales of cloth. This extraordinary demand, + after expending more than a day in fierce controversy, was paid; but the + Arabs, if they were surprised at the exorbitant black-mail demanded of + them, were more than ever surprised when they were told to return the way + they came; and that no Arab caravan should pass through his country to + Ujiji except over his dead body. + </p> + <p> + On the return of the unfortunate Arabs to Unyanyembe, they reported the + facts to Sheikh Sayd bin Salim, the governor of the Arab colony. This old + man, being averse to war, of course tried every means to induce Mirambo as + of old to be satisfied with presents; but Mirambo this time was obdurate, + and sternly determined on war unless the Arabs aided him in the warfare he + was about to wage against old Mkasiwa, sultan of the Wanyamwezi of + Unyanyembe. + </p> + <p> + "This is the status of affairs," said Khamis bin Abdullah. "Mirambo says + that for years he has been engaged in war against the neighbouring + Washensi and has come out of it victorious; he says this is a great year + with him; that he is going to fight the Arabs, and the Wanyamwezi of + Unyanyembe, and that he shall not stop until every Arab is driven from + Unyanyembe, and he rules over this country in place of Mkasiwa. Children + of Oman, shall it be so? Speak, Salim, son of Sayf, shall we go to meet + this Mshensi (pagan) or shall we return to our island?" + </p> + <p> + A murmur of approbation followed the speech of Khamis bin Abdullah, the + majority of those present being young men eager to punish the audacious + Mirambo. Salim, the son of Sayf, an old patriarch, slow of speech, tried + to appease the passions of the young men, scions of the aristocracy of + Muscat and Muttrah, and Bedaweens of the Desert, but Khamis's bold words + had made too deep an impression on their minds. + </p> + <p> + Soud, the handsome Arab whom I have noticed already as the son of Sayd the + son of Majid, spoke: "My father used to tell me that he remembered the + days when the Arabs could go through the country from Bagamoyo to Ujiji, + and from Kilwa to Lunda, and from Usenga to Uganda armed with canes. Those + days are gone by. We have stood the insolence of the Wagogo long enough. + Swaruru of Usui just takes from us whatever he wants; and now, here is + Mirambo, who says, after taking more than five bales of cloth as tribute + from one man, that no Arab caravan shall go to Ujiji, but over his body. + Are we prepared to give up the ivory of Ujiji, of Urundi, of Karagwah, of + Uganda, because of this one man? I say war—war until we have got his + beard under our feet—war until the whole of Uyoweh and Wilyankuru is + destroyed—war until we can again travel through any part of the + country with only our walking canes in our hands!" + </p> + <p> + The universal assent that followed Send's speech proved beyond a doubt + that we were about to have a war. I thought of Livingstone. What if he + were marching to Unyanyembe directly into the war country? + </p> + <p> + Having found from the Arabs that they intended to finish the war quickly—at + most within fifteen days, as Uyoweh was only four marches distant—I + volunteered to accompany them, take my loaded caravan with me as far as + Mfuto, and there leave it in charge of a few guards, and with the rest + march on with the Arab army. And my hope was, that it might be possible, + after the defeat of Mirambo, and his forest banditti—the Ruga-Ruga—to + take my Expedition direct to Ujiji by the road now closed. The Arabs were + sanguine of victory, and I partook of their enthusiasm. + </p> + <p> + The council of war broke up. A great dishful of rice and curry, in which + almonds, citron, raisins, and currants were plentifully mixed, was brought + in, and it was wonderful how soon we forgot our warlike fervor after our + attention had been drawn to this royal dish. I, of course, not being a + Mohammedan, had a dish of my own, of a similar composition, strengthened + by platters containing roast chicken, and kabobs, crullers, cakes, + sweetbread, fruit, glasses of sherbet and lemonade, dishes of gum-drops + and Muscat sweetmeats, dry raisins, prunes, and nuts. Certainly Khamis bin + Abdullah proved to me that if he had a warlike soul in him, he could also + attend to the cultivated tastes acquired under the shade of the mangoes on + his father's estates in Zanzibar—the island. + </p> + <p> + After gorging ourselves on these uncommon dainties some of the chief Arabs + escorted me to other tembes of Tabora. When we went to visit Mussoud bin + Abdullah, he showed me the very ground where Burton and Speke's house + stood—now pulled down and replaced by his office—Sny bin + Amer's house was also torn down, and the fashionable tembe of Unyanyembe, + now in vogue, built over it,—finely-carved rafters—huge carved + doors, brass knockers, and lofty airy rooms—a house built for + defence and comfort. + </p> + <p> + The finest house in Unyanyembe belongs to Amram bin Mussoud, who paid + sixty frasilah of ivory—over $3,000—for it. Very fair houses + can be purchased for from twenty to thirty frasilah of ivory. Amram's + house is called the "Two Seas"—"Baherein." It is one hundred feet in + length, and twenty feet high, with walls four feet thick, neatly plastered + over with mud mortar. The great door is a marvel of carving-work for + Unyanyembe artisans. Each rafter within is also carved with fine designs. + Before the front of the house is a young plantation of pomegranate trees, + which flourish here as if they were indigenous to the soil. A shadoof, + such as may be seen on the Nile, serves to draw water to irrigate the + gardens. + </p> + <p> + Towards evening we walked back to our own finely situated tembe in + Kwihara, well satisfied with what we had seen at Tabora. My men drove a + couple of oxen, and carried three sacks of native rice—a most + superior kind—the day's presents of hospitality from Khamis bin + Abdullah. + </p> + <p> + In Unyanyembe I found the Livingstone caravan, which started off in a + fright from Bagamoyo upon the rumour that the English Consul was coming. + As all the caravans were now halted at Unyanyembe because of the now + approaching war, I suggested to Sayd bin Salim, that it were better that + the men of the Livingstone caravan should live with mine in my tembe, that + I might watch over the white man's goods. Sayd bin Salim agreed with me, + and the men and goods were at once brought to my tembe. + </p> + <p> + One day Asmani, who was now chief of Livingstone's caravan, the other + having died of small-pox, two or three days before, brought out a tent to + the veranda where, I was sitting writing, and shewed me a packet of + letters, which to my surprise was marked: + </p> + <p> + "To Dr. Livingstone, + </p> + <p> + "Ujiji, + </p> + <p> + "November 1st, 1870. + </p> + <p> + "Registered letters." + </p> + <p> + From November 1st, 1870, to February 10, 1871, just one hundred days, at + Bagamoyo! A miserable small caravan of thirty-three men halting one + hundred days at Bagamoyo, only twenty-five miles by water from Zanzibar! + Poor Livingstone! Who knows but he maybe suffering for want of these very + supplies that were detained so long near the sea. The caravan arrived in + Unyanyembe some time about the middle of May. About the latter part of May + the first disturbances took place. Had this caravan arrived here in the + middle of March, or even the middle of April, they might have travelled on + to Ujiji without trouble. + </p> + <p> + On the 7th of July, about 2 P.M., I was sitting on the burzani as usual; I + felt listless and languid, and a drowsiness came over me; I did not fall + asleep, but the power of my limbs seemed to fail me. Yet the brain was + busy; all my life seemed passing in review before me; when these + retrospective scenes became serious, I looked serious; when they were + sorrowful, I wept hysterically; when they were joyous, I laughed loudly. + Reminiscences of yet a young life's battles and hard struggles came + surging into the mind in quick succession: events of boyhood, of youth, + and manhood; perils, travels, scenes, joys, and sorrows; loves and hates; + friendships and indifferences. My mind followed the various and rapid + transition of my life's passages; it drew the lengthy, erratic, sinuous + lines of travel my footsteps had passed over. If I had drawn them on the + sandy floor, what enigmatical problems they had been to those around me, + and what plain, readable, intelligent histories they had been to me! + </p> + <p> + The loveliest feature of all to me was the form of a noble, and true man, + who called me son. Of my life in the great pine forests of Arkansas, and + in Missouri, I retained the most vivid impressions. The dreaming days I + passed under the sighing pines on the Ouachita's shores; the new clearing, + the block-house, our faithful black servant, the forest deer, and the + exuberant life I led, were all well remembered. And I remembered how one + day, after we had come to live near the Mississipi, I floated down, down, + hundreds of miles, with a wild fraternity of knurly giants, the boatmen of + the Mississipi, and how a dear old man welcomed me back, as if from the + grave. I remembered also my travels on foot through sunny Spain, and + France, with numberless adventures in Asia Minor, among Kurdish nomads. I + remembered the battle-fields of America and the stormy scenes of rampant + war. I remembered gold mines, and broad prairies, Indian councils, and + much experience in the new western lands. I remembered the shock it gave + me to hear after my return from a barbarous country of the calamity that + had overtaken the fond man whom I called father, and the hot fitful life + that followed it. Stop! ************ + </p> + <p> + Dear me; is it the 21st of July? Yes, Shaw informed me that it was the + 21st of July after I recovered from my terrible attack of fever; the true + date was the 14th of July, but I was not aware that I had jumped a week, + until I met Dr. Livingstone. We two together examined the Nautical + Almanack, which I brought with me. We found that the Doctor was three + weeks out of his reckoning, and to my great surprise I was also one week + out, or one week ahead of the actual date. The mistake was made by my + being informed that I had been two weeks sick, and as the day I recovered + my senses was Friday, and Shaw and the people were morally sure that I was + in bed two weeks, I dated it on my Diary the 21st of July. However, on the + tenth day after the first of my illness, I was in excellent trim again, + only, however, to see and attend to Shaw, who was in turn taken sick. By + the 22nd July Shaw was recovered, then Selim was prostrated, and groaned + in his delirium for four days, but by the 28th we were all recovered, and + were beginning to brighten up at the prospect of a diversion in the shape + of a march upon Mirambo's stronghold. + </p> + <p> + The morning of the 29th I had fifty men loaded with bales, beads, and + wire, for Ujiji. When they were mustered for the march outside the tembe, + the only man absent was Bombay. While men were sent to search for him, + others departed to get one more look, and one more embrace with their + black Delilahs. Bombay was found some time about 2 P.M., his face + faithfully depicting the contending passions under which he was labouring—sorrow + at parting from the fleshpots of Unyanyembe—regret at parting from + his Dulcinea of Tabora—to be, bereft of all enjoyment now, nothing + but marches—hard, long marches—to go to the war—to be + killed, perhaps, Oh! Inspired by such feelings, no wonder Bombay was + inclined to be pugnacious when I ordered him to his place, and I was in a + shocking bad temper for having been kept waiting from 8 A.M. to 2 P.M. for + him. There was simply a word and a savage look, and my cane was flying + around Bombay's shoulders, as if he were to be annihilated. I fancy that + the eager fury of my onslaught broke his stubbornness more than anything + else; for before I had struck him a dozen times he was crying for + "pardon." At that word I ceased belaboring him, for this was the first + time he had ever uttered that word. Bombay was conquered at last. + </p> + <p> + "March!" and the guide led off, followed in solemn order by forty-nine of + his fellows, every man carrying a heavy load of African moneys, besides + his gun, hatchet, and stock of ammunition, and his ugali-pot. We presented + quite an imposing sight while thus marching on in silence and order, with + our flags flying, and the red blanket robes of the men streaming behind + them as the furious north-easter blew right on our flank. + </p> + <p> + The men seemed to feel they were worth seeing, for I noticed that several + assumed a more martial tread as they felt their royal Joho cloth tugging + at their necks, as it was swept streaming behind by the wind. Maganga, a + tall Mnyamwezi, stalked along like a very Goliah about to give battle + alone, to Mirambo and his thousand warriors. Frisky Khamisi paced on under + his load, imitating a lion and there was the rude jester—the + incorrigible Ulimengo—with a stealthy pace like a cat. But their + silence could not last long. Their vanity was so much gratified, the red + cloaks danced so incessantly before their eyes, that it would have been a + wonder if they could have maintained such serious gravity or discontent + one half hour longer. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> +Ulimengo was the first who broke it. He had constituted himself the +kirangozi or guide, and was the standard-bearer, bearing the American +flag, which the men thought would certainly strike terror into the +hearts of the enemy. Growing confident first, then valorous, then +exultant, he suddenly faced the army he was leading, and shouted + + "Hoy! Hoy! +Chorus.—Hoy! Hoy! + + Hoy! Hoy! +Chorus.—Hoy! Hoy! + + Hoy! Hoy! +Chorus.—Hoy! Hoy! + + Where are ye going? +Chorus.—Going to war. + + Against whom? +Chorus.—Against Mirambo. + + Who is your master? +Chorus.—The White Man. + + Ough! Ough! +Chorus.—Ough! Ough! + + Hyah! Hyah! +Chorus.—Hyah. Hyah!" +</pre> + <p> + This was the ridiculous song they kept up all day without intermission. + </p> + <p> + We camped the first day at Bomboma's village, situated a mile to the + south-west of the natural hill fortress of Zimbili. Bombay was quite + recovered from his thrashing, and had banished the sullen thoughts that + had aroused my ire, and the men having behaved themselves so well, a + five-gallon pot of pombe was brought to further nourish the valour, which + they one and all thought they possessed. + </p> + <p> + The second day we arrived at Masangi. I was visited soon afterwards by + Soud, the son of Sayd bin Majid, who told me the Arabs were waiting for + me; that they would not march from Mfuto until I had arrived. + </p> + <p> + Eastern Mfuto, after a six hours' march, was reached on the third day from + Unyanyembe. Shaw gave in, laid down in the road, and declared he was + dying. This news was brought to me about 4 P.M. by one of the last + stragglers. I was bound to despatch men to carry him to me, into my camp, + though every man was well tired after the long march. A reward stimulated + half-a-dozen to venture into the forest just at dusk to find Shaw, who was + supposed to be at least three hours away from camp. + </p> + <p> + About two o'clock in the morning my men returned, having carried Shaw on + their backs the entire distance. I was roused up, and had him conveyed to + my tent. I examined him, and I assured myself he was not suffering from + fever of any kind; and in reply to my inquiries as to how he felt, he said + he could neither walk nor ride, that he felt such extreme weakness and + lassitude that he was incapable of moving further. After administering a + glass of port wine to him in a bowlful of sago gruel, we both fell asleep. + </p> + <p> + We arrived early the following morning at Mfuto, the rendezvous of the + Arab army. A halt was ordered the next day, in order to make ourselves + strong by eating the beeves, which we freely slaughtered. + </p> + <p> + The personnel of our army was as follows: + </p> + <p> + Sheikh Sayd bin Salim...... 25 half caste + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + " Khamis bin Abdullah.... 250 slaves + + " Thani bin Abdullah.... 80 " + + " Mussoud bin Abdullah.... 75 " + + " Abdullah bin Mussoud.... 80 " + + " Ali bin Sayd bin Nasib... 250 " + + " Nasir bin Mussoud..... 50 " + + " Hamed Kimiami...... 70 " + + " Hamdam........ 30 " +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + " Sayd bin Habib...... 50 " + + " Salim bin Sayf..... 100 " + + " Sunguru........ 25 " + + " Sarboko........ 25 " + + " Soud bin Sayd bin Majid... 50 " + + " Mohammed bin Mussoud.... 30 " + + " Sayd bin Hamed...... 90 " + + " The 'Herald' Expedition... 50 soldiers + + " Mkasiwa's Wanyamwezi... 800 " + + " Half-castes and Wangwana.. 125 " + + " Independent chiefs and their + followers....... 300 " +</pre> + <p> + These made a total of 2,255, according to numbers given me by Thani bin + Abdullah, and corroborated by a Baluch in the pay of Sheikh bin Nasib. Of + these men 1,500 were armed with guns—flint-lock muskets, German and + French double-barrels, some English Enfields, and American Springfields—besides + these muskets, they were mostly armed with spears and long knives for the + purpose of decapitating, and inflicting vengeful gashes in the dead + bodies. Powder and ball were plentiful: some men were served a hundred + rounds each, my people received each man sixty rounds. + </p> + <p> + As we filed out of the stronghold of Mfuto, with waving banners denoting + the various commanders, with booming horns, and the roar of fifty bass + drums, called gomas—with blessings showered on us by the mollahs, + and happiest predications from the soothsayers, astrologers, and the + diviners of the Koran—who could have foretold that this grand force, + before a week passed over its head, would be hurrying into that same + stronghold of Mfuto, with each man's heart in his mouth from fear? + </p> + <p> + The date of our leaving Mfuto for battle with Mirambo was the 3rd of + August. All my goods were stored in Mfuto, ready for the march to Ujiji, + should we be victorious over the African chief, but at least for safety, + whatever befel us. + </p> + <p> + Long before we reached Umanda, I was in my hammock in the paroxysms of a + fierce attack of intermittent fever, which did not leave me until late + that night. + </p> + <p> + At Umanda, six hours from Mfuto, our warriors bedaubed themselves with the + medicine which the wise men had manufactured for them—a compound of + matama flour mixed with the juices of a herb whose virtues were only known + to the Waganga of the Wanyamwezi. + </p> + <p> + At 6 A.M. on the 4th of August we were once more prepared for the road, + but before we were marched out of the village, the "manneno," or speech, + was delivered by the orator of the Wanyamwezi: + </p> + <p> + "Words! words! words! Listen, sons of Mkasiwa, children of Unyamwezi! the + journey is before you, the thieves of the forest are waiting; yes, they + are thieves, they cut up your caravans, they steal your ivory, they murder + your women. Behold, the Arabs are with you, El Wali of the Arab sultan, + and the white man are with you. Go, the son of Mkasiwa is with you; fight; + kill, take slaves, take cloth, take cattle, kill, eat, and fill + yourselves! Go!" + </p> + <p> + A loud, wild shout followed this bold harangue, the gates of the village + were thrown open, and blue, red, and white-robed soldiers were bounding + upward like so many gymnasts; firing their guns incessantly, in order to + encourage themselves with noise, or to strike terror into the hearts of + those who awaited us within the strong enclosure of Zimbizo, Sultan + Kolongo's place. + </p> + <p> + As Zimbizo was distant only five hours from Umanda, at 11 A.M. we came in + view of it. We halted on the verge of the cultivated area around it and + its neighbours within the shadow of the forest. Strict orders had been + given by the several chiefs to their respective commands not to fire, + until they were within shooting distance of the boma. + </p> + <p> + Khamis bin Abdullah crept through the forest to the west of the village. + The Wanyamwezi took their position before the main gateway, aided by the + forces of Soud the son of Sayd on the right, and the son of Habib on the + left, Abdullah, Mussoud, myself, and others made ready to attack the + eastern gates, which arrangement effectually shut them in, with the + exception of the northern side. + </p> + <p> + Suddenly, a volley opened on us as we emerged from the forest along the + Unyanyembe road, in the direction they had been anticipating the sight of + an enemy, and immediately the attacking forces began their firing in most + splendid style. There were some ludicrous scenes of men pretending to + fire, then jumping off to one side, then forward, then backward, with the + agility of hopping frogs, but the battle was none the less in earnest. The + breech-loaders of my men swallowed my metallic cartridges much faster than + I liked to see; but happily there was a lull in the firing, and we were + rushing into the village from the west, the south, the north, through the + gates and over the tall palings that surrounded the village, like so many + Merry Andrews; and the poor villagers were flying from the enclosure + towards the mountains, through the northern gate, pursued by the fleetest + runners of our force, and pelted in the back by bullets from + breech-loaders and shot-guns. + </p> + <p> + The village was strongly defended, and not more than twenty dead bodies + were found in it, the strong thick wooden paling having afforded excellent + protection against our bullets. + </p> + <p> + From Zimbizo, after having left a sufficient force within, we sallied out, + and in an hour had cleared the neighbourhood of the enemy, having captured + two other villages, which we committed to the flames, after gutting them + of all valuables. A few tusks of ivory, and about fifty slaves, besides an + abundance of grain, composed the "loot," which fell to the lot of the + Arabs. + </p> + <p> + On the 5th, a detachment of Arabs and slaves, seven hundred strong, + scoured the surrounding country, and carried fire and devastation up to + the boma of Wilyankuru. + </p> + <p> + On the 6th, Soud bin Sayd and about twenty other young Arabs led a force + of five hundred men against Wilyankuru itself, where it was supposed + Mirambo was living. Another party went out towards the low wooded hills, a + short distance north of Zimbizo, near which place they surprised a + youthful forest thief asleep, whose head they stretched backwards, and cut + it off as though he were a goat or a sheep. Another party sallied out + southward, and defeated a party of Mirambo's "bush-whackers," news of + which came to our ears at noon. + </p> + <p> + In the morning I had gone to Sayd bin Salim's tembe, to represent to him + how necessary it was to burn the long grass in the forest of Zimbizo, lest + it might hide any of the enemy; but soon afterwards I had been struck down + with another attack of intermittent fever, and was obliged to turn in and + cover myself with blankets to produce perspiration; but not, however, till + I had ordered Shaw and Bombay not to permit any of my men to leave the + camp. But I was told soon afterwards by Selim that more than one half had + gone to the attack on Wilyankuru with Soud bin Sayd. + </p> + <p> + About 6 P.M. the entire camp of Zimbizo was electrified with the news that + all the Arabs who had accompanied Soud bin Sayd had been killed; and that + more than one-half of his party had been slain. Some of my own men + returned, and from them I learned that Uledi, Grant's former valet, + Mabruki Khatalabu (Killer of his father), Mabruki (the Little), Baruti of + Useguhha, and Ferahan had been killed. I learned also that they had + succeeded in capturing Wilyankuru in a very short time, that Mirambo and + his son were there, that as they succeeded in effecting an entrance, + Mirambo had collected his men, and after leaving the village, had formed + an ambush in the grass, on each side of the road, between Wilyankuru and + Zimbizo, and that as the attacking party were returning home laden with + over a hundred tusks of ivory, and sixty bales of cloth, and two or three + hundred slaves, Mirambo's men suddenly rose up on each side of them, and + stabbed them with their spears. The brave Soud had fired his + double-barrelled gun and shot two men, and was in the act of loading again + when a spear was launched, which penetrated through and through him: all + the other Arabs shared the same fate. This sudden attack from an enemy + they believed to be conquered so demoralized the party that, dropping + their spoil, each man took to his heels, and after making a wide detour + through the woods, returned to Zimbizo to repeat the dolorous tale. + </p> + <p> + The effect of this defeat is indescribable. It was impossible to sleep, + from the shrieks of the women whose husbands had fallen. All night they + howled their lamentations, and sometimes might be heard the groans of the + wounded who had contrived to crawl through the grass unperceived by the + enemy. Fugitives were continually coming in throughout the night, but none + of my men who were reported to be dead, were ever heard of again. + </p> + <p> + The 7th was a day of distrust, sorrow, and retreat; the Arabs accused one + another for urging war without expending all peaceful means first. There + were stormy councils of war held, wherein were some who proposed to return + at once to Unyanyembe, and keep within their own houses; and Khamis bin + Abdullah raved, like an insulted monarch, against the abject cowardice of + his compatriots. These stormy meetings and propositions to retreat were + soon known throughout the camp, and assisted more than anything else to + demoralize completely the combined forces of Wanyamwezi and slaves. I sent + Bombay to Sayd bin Salim to advise him not to think of retreat, as it + would only be inviting Mirambo to carry the war to Unyanyembe. + </p> + <p> + After, despatching Bombay with this message, I fell asleep, but about 1.30 + P.M. I was awakened by Selim saying, "Master, get up, they are all running + away, and Khamis bin Abdullah is himself going." + </p> + <p> + With the aid of Selim I dressed myself, and staggered towards the door. My + first view was of Thani bin Abdullah being dragged away, who, when he + caught sight of me, shouted out "Bana—quick—Mirambo is + coming." He was then turning to run, and putting on his jacket, with his + eyes almost starting out of their sockets with terror. Khamis bin Abdullah + was also about departing, he being the last Arab to leave. Two of my men + were following him; these Selim was ordered to force back with a revolver. + Shaw was saddling his donkey with my own saddle, preparatory to giving me + the slip, and leaving me in the lurch to the tender mercies of Mirambo. + There were only Bombay, Mabruki Speke, Chanda who was coolly eating his + dinner, Mabruk Unyauyembe, Mtamani, Juma, and Sarmean—-only seven + out of fifty. All the others had deserted, and were by this time far away, + except Uledi (Manwa Sera) and Zaidi, whom Selim brought back at the point + of a loaded revolver. Selim was then told to saddle my donkey, and Bombay + to assist Shaw to saddle his own. In a few moments we were on the road, + the men ever looking back for the coming enemy; they belabored the donkeys + to some purpose, for they went at a hard trot, which caused me intense + pain. I would gladly have lain down to die, but life was sweet, and I had + not yet given up all hope of being able to preserve it to the full and + final accomplishment of my mission. My mind was actively at work planning + and contriving during the long lonely hours of night, which we employed to + reach Mfuto, whither I found the Arabs had retreated. In the night Shaw + tumbled off his donkey, and would not rise, though implored to do so. As I + did not despair myself, so I did not intend that Shaw should despair. He + was lifted on his animal, and a man was placed on each side of him to + assist him; thus we rode through the darkness. At midnight we reached + Mfuto safely, and were at once admitted into the village, from which we + had issued so valiantly, but to which we were now returned so + ignominiously. + </p> + <p> + I found all my men had arrived here before dark. Ulimengo, the bold guide + who had exulted in his weapons and in our numbers, and was so sanguine of + victory, had performed the eleven hours' march in six hours; sturdy + Chowpereh, whom I regarded as the faithfullest of my people, had arrived + only half an hour later than Ulimengo; and frisky Khamisi, the dandy—the + orator—the rampant demagogue—yes—he had come third; and + Speke's "Faithfuls" had proved as cowardly as any poor "nigger" of them + all. Only Selim was faithful. + </p> + <p> + I asked Selim, "Why did you not also run away, and leave your master to + die?" + </p> + <p> + "Oh, sir," said the Arab boy, naively, "I was afraid you would whip me." + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0009" id="link2HCH0009"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER IX. — MY LIFE AND TROUBLES IN UNYANYEMBE-(continued). + </h2> + <p> + It never occurred to the Arab magnates that I had cause of complaint + against them, or that I had a right to feel aggrieved at their conduct, + for the base desertion of an ally, who had, as a duty to friendship, taken + up arms for their sake. Their "salaams" the next morning after the + retreat, were given as if nothing had transpired to mar the good feeling + that had existed between us. + </p> + <p> + They were hardly seated, however, before I began to inform them that as + the war was only between them and Mirambo, and that as I was afraid, if + they were accustomed to run away after every little check, that the war + might last a much longer time than I could afford to lose; and that as + they had deserted their wounded on the field, and left their sick friends + to take care of themselves, they must not consider me in the light of an + ally any more. "I am satisfied," said I, "having seen your mode of + fighting, that the war will not be ended in so short a time as you think + it will. It took you five years, I hear, to conquer and kill Manwa Sera, + you will certainly not conquer Mirambo in less than a year.* I am a white + man, accustomed to wars after a different style, I know something about + fighting, but I never saw people run away from an encampment like ours at + Zimbizo for such slight cause as you had. By running away, you have + invited Mirambo to follow you to Unyanyembe; you may be sure he will + come." __________________ * The same war is still raging, April, 1874. + __________________ + </p> + <p> + The Arabs protested one after another that they had not intended to have + left me, but the Wanyamwezi of Mkasiwa had shouted out that the "Musungu" + was gone, and the cry had caused a panic among their people, which it was + impossible to allay. + </p> + <p> + Later that day the Arabs continued their retreat to Tabora; which is + twenty-two miles distant from Mfuto. I determined to proceed more + leisurely, and on the second day after the flight from Zimbizo, the + Expedition, with all the stores and baggage, marched back to Masangi, and + on the third day to Kwihara. + </p> + <p> + The following extracts from my Diary will serve to show better than + anything else, my feelings and thoughts about this time, after our + disgraceful retreat: + </p> + <p> + Kwihara. Friday, 11th August, 1871.—Arrived to-day from Zimbili, + village of Bomboma's. I am quite disappointed and almost disheartened. But + I have one consolation, I have done my duty by the Arabs, a duty I thought + I owed to the kindness they received me with, now, however, the duty is + discharged, and I am free to pursue my own course. I feel happy, for some + reasons, that the duty has been paid at such a slight sacrifice. Of course + if I had lost my life in this enterprise, I should have been justly + punished. But apart from my duty to the consideration with which the Arabs + had received me, was the necessity of trying every method of reaching + Livingstone. This road which the war with Mirambo has closed, is only a + month's march from this place, and, if the road could be opened with my + aid, sooner than without it, why should I refuse my aid? The attempt has + been made for the second time to Ujiji—both have failed. I am going + to try another route; to attempt to go by the north would be folly. + Mirambo's mother and people, and the Wasui, are between me and Ujiji, + without including the Watuta, who are his allies, and robbers. The + southern route seems to be the most practicable one. Very few people know + anything of the country south; those whom I have questioned concerning it + speak of "want of water" and robber Wazavira, as serious obstacles; they + also say that the settlements are few and far between. + </p> + <p> + But before I can venture to try this new route, I have to employ a new set + of men, as those whom I took to Mfuto consider their engagements at an + end, and the fact of five of their number being killed rather damps their + ardor for travelling. It is useless to hope that Wanyamwezi can be + engaged, because it is against their custom to go with caravans, as + carriers, during war time. My position is most serious. I have a good + excuse for returning to the coast, but my conscience will not permit me to + do so, after so much money has been expended, and so much confidence has + been placed in me. In fact, I feel I must die sooner than return. + </p> + <p> + Saturday, August 12th.—My men, as I supposed they would, have gone; + they said that I engaged them to go, to Ujiji by Mirambo's road. I have + only thirteen left. + </p> + <p> + With this small body of men, whither can I go? I have over one hundred + loads in the storeroom. Livingstone's caravan is also here; his goods + consist of seventeen bales of cloth, twelve boxes, and six bags of beads. + His men are luxuriating upon the best the country affords. + </p> + <p> + If Livingstone is at Ujiji, he is now locked up with small means of + escape. I may consider myself also locked up at Unyamyembe, and I suppose + cannot go to Ujiji until this war with Mirambo is settled. Livingstone + cannot get his goods, for they are here with mine. He cannot return to + Zanzibar, and the road to the Nile is blocked up. He might, if he has men + and stores, possibly reach Baker by travelling northwards, through Urundi, + thence through Ruanda, Karagwah, Uganda, Unyoro, and Ubari to Gondokoro. + Pagazis he cannot obtain, for the sources whence a supply might be + obtained are closed. It is an erroneous supposition to think that + Livingstone, any more than any other energetic man of his calibre, can + travel through Africa without some sort of an escort, and a durable supply + of marketable cloth and beads. + </p> + <p> + I was told to-day by a man that when Livingstone was coming from Nyassa + Lake towards the Tanganika (the very time that people thought him + murdered) he was met by Sayd bin Omar's caravan, which was bound for + Ulamba. He was travelling with Mohammed bin Gharib. This Arab, who was + coming from Urunga, met Livingstone at Chi-cumbi's, or Kwa-chi-kumbi's, + country, and travelled with him afterwards, I hear, to Manyuema or + Manyema. Manyuema is forty marches from the north of Nyassa. Livingstone + was walking; he was dressed in American sheeting. He had lost all his + cloth in Lake Liemba while crossing it in a boat. He had three canoes with + him; in one he put his cloth, another he loaded with his boxes and some of + his men, into the third he went himself with two servants and two + fishermen. The boat with his cloth was upset. On leaving Nyassa, + Livingstone went to Ubisa, thence to Uemba, thence to Urungu. Livingstone + wore a cap. He had a breech-loading double-barreled rifle with him, which + fired fulminating balls. He was also armed with two revolvers. The Wahiyow + with Livingstone told this man that their master had many men with him at + first, but that several had deserted him. + </p> + <p> + August 13th.—A caravan came in to-day from the seacoast. They + reported that William L. Farquhar, whom I left sick at Mpwapwa, Usagara, + and his cook, were dead. Farquhar, I was told, died a few days after I had + entered Ugogo, his cook died a few weeks later. My first impulse was for + revenge. I believed that Leukole had played me false, and had poisoned + him, or that he had been murdered in some other manner; but a personal + interview with the Msawahili who brought the news informing me that + Farquhar had succumbed to his dreadful illness has done away with that + suspicion. So far as I could understand him, Farquhar had in the morning + declared himself well enough to proceed, but in attempting to rise, had + fallen backward and died. I was also told that the Wasagara, possessing + some superstitious notions respecting the dead, had ordered Jako to take + the body out for burial, that Jako, not being able to carry it, had + dragged the body to the jungle, and there left it naked without the + slightest covering of earth, or anything else. + </p> + <p> + "There is one of us gone, Shaw, my boy! Who will be the next?" I remarked + that night to my companion. + </p> + <p> + August 14th.—Wrote some letters to Zanzibar. Shaw was taken very ill + last night. + </p> + <p> + August 19th. Saturday.—My soldiers are employed stringing beads. + Shaw is still a-bed. We hear that Mirambo is coming to Unyanyembe. A + detachment of Arabs and their slaves have started this morning to possess + themselves of the powder left there by the redoubtable Sheikh Sayd bin + Salim, the commander-in-chief of the Arab settlements. + </p> + <p> + August 21st. Monday.—Shaw still sick. One hundred fundo of beads + have been strung. The Arabs are preparing for another sally against + Mirambo. The advance of Mirambo upon Unyanyembe was denied by Sayd bin + Salim, this morning. + </p> + <p> + August 22nd.—We were stringing beads this morning, when, about 10 + A.M., we heard a continued firing from the direction of Tabora. Rushing + out from our work to the front door facing Tabora, we heard considerable + volleying, and scattered firing, plainly; and ascending to the top of my + tembe, I saw with my glasses the smoke of the guns. Some of my men who + were sent on to ascertain the cause came running back with the information + that Mirambo had attacked Tabora with over two thousand men, and that a + force of over one thousand Watuta, who had allied themselves with him for + the sake of plunder, had come suddenly upon Tabora, attacking from + opposite directions. + </p> + <p> + Later in the day, or about noon, watching the low saddle over which we + could see Tabora, we saw it crowded with fugitives from that settlement, + who were rushing to our settlement at Kwihara for protection. From these + people we heard the sad information that the noble Khamis bin Abdullah, + his little protege, Khamis, Mohammed bin Abdullah, Ibrahim bin Rashid, and + Sayf, the son of Ali, the son of Sheikh, the son of Nasib, had been slain. + </p> + <p> + When I inquired into the details of the attack, and the manner of the + death of these Arabs, I was told that after the first firing which warned + the inhabitants of Tabora that the enemy was upon them, Khamis bin + Abdullah and some of the principal Arabs who happened to be with him had + ascended to the roof of his tembe, and with his spyglass he had looked + towards the direction of the firing. To his great astonishment he saw the + plain around Tabora filled with approaching savages, and about two miles + off, near Kazima, a tent pitched, which he knew to belong to Mirambo, from + its having been presented to that chief by the Arabs of Tabora when they + were on good terms with him. + </p> + <p> + Khamis bin Abdullah descended to his house saying, "Let us go to meet him. + Arm yourselves, my friends, and come with me." His friends advised him + strongly sat to go out of his tembe; for so long as each Arab kept to his + tembe they were more than a match for the Ruga Ruga and the Watuta + together. But Khamis broke out impatiently with, "Would you advise us to + stop in our tembes, for fear of this Mshensi (pagan)? Who goes with me?" + His little protege, Khamis, son of a dead friend, asked to be allowed to + be his gun-bearer. Mohammed bin Abdulluh, Ibrahim bin Rashid, and Sayf, + the son of Ali, young Arabs of good families, who were proud to live with + the noble Khamis, also offered to go with him. After hastily arming eighty + of his slaves, contrary to the advice of his prudent friends, he sallied + out, and was soon face to face with his cunning and determined enemy + Mirambo. This chief, upon seeing the Arabs advance towards him, gave + orders to retreat slowly. Khamis, deceived by this, rushed on with his + friends after them. Suddenly Mirambo ordered his men to advance upon them + in a body, and at the sight of the precipitate rush upon their party, + Khamis's slaves incontinently took to their heels, never even deigning to + cast a glance behind them, leaving their master to the fate which was now + overtaking him. The savages surrounded the five Arabs, and though several + of them fell before the Arabs' fire, continued to shoot at the little + party, until Khamis bin Abdullah received a bullet in the leg, which + brought him to his knees, and, for the first time, to the knowledge that + his slaves had deserted him. Though wounded, the brave man continued + shooting, but he soon afterwards received a bullet through the heart. + Little Khamis, upon seeing his adopted father's fall, exclaimed: "My + father Khamis is dead, I will die with him," and continued fighting until + he received, shortly after, his death wound. In a few minutes there was + not one Arab left alive. + </p> + <p> + Late at night some more particulars arrived of this tragic scene. I was + told by people who saw the bodies, that the body of Khamis bin Abdullah, + who was a fine noble, brave, portly man, was found with the skin of his + forehead, the beard and skin of the lower part of his face, the fore part + of the nose, the fat over the stomach and abdomen, and, lastly, a bit from + each heel, cut off, by the savage allies of Mirambo. And in the same + condition were found the bodies of his adopted son and fallen friends. The + flesh and skin thus taken from the bodies was taken, of course, by the + waganga or medicine men, to make what they deem to be the most powerful + potion of all to enable men to be strong against their enemies. This + potion is mixed up with their ugali and rice, and is taken in this manner + with the most perfect confidence in its efficacy, as an invulnerable + protection against bullets and missiles of all descriptions. + </p> + <p> + It was a most sorry scene to witness from our excited settlement at + Kwihara, almost the whole of Tabora in flames, and to see the hundreds of + people crowding into Kwihara. + </p> + <p> + Perceiving that my people were willing to stand by me, I made preparations + for defence by boring loopholes for muskets into the stout clay walls of + my tembe. They were made so quickly, and seemed so admirably adapted for + the efficient defence of the tembe, that my men got quite brave, and + Wangwana refugees with guns in their hands, driven out of Tabora, asked to + be admitted into our tembe to assist in its defence. Livingstone's men + were also collected, and invited to help defend their master's goods + against Mirambo's supposed attack. By night I had one hundred and fifty + armed men in my courtyard, stationed at every possible point where an + attack might be expected. To-morrow Mirambo has threatened that he will + come to Kwihara. I hope he will come, and if he comes within range of an + American rifle, I shall see what virtue lies in American lead. + </p> + <p> + August 23rd.—We have passed a very anxious day in the valley of + Kwihara. Our eyes were constantly directed towards unfortunate Tabora. It + has been said that three tembes only have stood the brunt of the attack. + Abid bin Suliman's house has been destroyed, and over two hundred tusks of + ivory that belonged to him have become the property of the African + Bonaparte. My tembe is in as efficient a state of defence as its style and + means of defence will allow. Rifle-pits surround the house outside, and + all native huts that obstructed the view have been torn down, and all + trees and shrubs which might serve as a shelter for any one of the enemy + have been cut. Provisions and water enough for six days have been brought. + I have ammunition enough to last two weeks. The walls are three feet + thick, and there are apartments within apartments, so that a desperate + body of men could fight until the last room had been taken. + </p> + <p> + The Arabs, my neighbours, endeavour to seem brave, but it is evident they + are about despairing; I have heard it rumoured that the Arabs of Kwihara, + if Tabora is taken, will start en masse for the coast, and give the + country up to Mirambo. If such are their intentions, and they are really + carried into effect, I shall be in a pretty mess. However, if they do + leave me, Mirambo will not reap any benefit from my stores, nor from + Livingstone's either, for I shall burn the whole house, and everything in + it. + </p> + <p> + August 24th.—The American flag is still waving above my house, and + the Arabs are still in Unyanyembe. + </p> + <p> + About 10 A.M., a messenger came from Tabora, asking us if we were not + going to assist them against Mirambo. I felt very much like going out to + help them; but after debating long upon the pros and cons of it,—asking + myself, Was it prudent? Ought I to go? What will become of the people if I + were killed? Will they not desert me again? What was the fate of Khamis + bin Abdullah?—I sent word that I would not go; that they ought to + feel perfectly at home in their tembes against such a force as Mirambo + had, that I should be glad if they could induce him to come to Kwihara, in + which case I would try and pick him off. + </p> + <p> + They say that Mirambo, and his principal officer, carry umbrellas over + their heads, that he himself has long hair like a Mnyamwezi pagazi, and a + beard. If he comes, all the men carrying umbrellas will have bullets + rained on them in the hope that one lucky bullet may hit him. According to + popular ideas, I should make a silver bullet, but I have no silver with + me. I might make a gold one. + </p> + <p> + About, noon I went over to see Sheikh bin Nasib, leaving about 100 men + inside the house to guard it while I was absent. This old fellow is quite + a philosopher in his way. I should call him a professor of minor + philosophy. He is generally so sententious—fond of aphorisms, and a + very deliberate character. I was astonished to find him so despairing. His + aphorisms have deserted him, his philosophy has not been able to stand + against disaster. He listened to me, more like a moribund, than one + possessing all the means of defence and offence. + </p> + <p> + I loaded his two-pounder with ball, and grape, and small slugs of iron, + and advised him not to fire it until Mirambo's people were at his gates. + </p> + <p> + About 4 p.m. I heard that Mirambo had deported himself to Kazima, a place + north-west of Tabora a couple of miles. + </p> + <p> + August 26th.—The Arabs sallied out this morning to attack Kazima, + but refrained, because Mirambo asked for a day's grace, to eat the beef he + had stolen from them. He has asked them impudently to come to-morrow + morning, at which time he says he will give them plenty of fighting. + </p> + <p> + Kwihara is once more restored to a peaceful aspect, and fugitives no + longer throng its narrow limits in fear and despair. + </p> + <p> + August 27th.—Mirambo retreated during the night; and when the Arabs + went in force to attack his village of Kazima, they found it vacant. + </p> + <p> + The Arabs hold councils of war now-a-days—battle meetings, of which + they seem to be very fond, but extremely slow to act upon. They were about + to make friends with the northern Watuta, but Mirambo was ahead of them. + They had talked of invading Mirambo's territory the second time, but + Mirambo invaded Unyanyembe with fire and sword, bringing death to many a + household, and he has slain the noblest of them all. + </p> + <p> + The Arabs spend their hours in talking and arguing, while the Ujiji and + Karagwah roads are more firmly closed than ever. Indeed many of the + influential Arabs are talking of returning to Zanzibar; saying, + "Unyanyembe is ruined." + </p> + <p> + Meanwhile, with poor success, however, perceiving the impossibility of + procuring Wanyamwezi pagazis, I am hiring the Wangwana renegades living in + Unyanyembe to proceed with me to Ujiji, at treble prices. Each man is + offered 30 doti, ordinary hire of a carrier being only from 5 to 10 doti + to Ujiji. I want fifty men. I intend to leave about sixty or seventy loads + here under charge of a guard. I shall leave all personal baggage behind, + except one small portmanteau. + </p> + <p> + August 28th.—No news to-day of Mirambo. Shaw is getting strong + again. + </p> + <p> + Sheikh bin Nasib called on me to-day, but, except on minor philosophy, he + had nothing to say. + </p> + <p> + I have determined, after a study of the country, to lead a flying caravan + to Ujiji, by a southern road through northern Ukonongo and Ukawendi. + Sheikh bin Nasib has been informed to-night of this determination. + </p> + <p> + August 29th.—Shaw got up to-day for a little work. Alas! all my + fine-spun plans of proceeding by boat over the Victoria N'Yanza, thence + down the Nile, have been totally demolished, I fear, through this war with + Mirambo—this black Bonaparte. Two months have been wasted here + already. The Arabs take such a long time to come to a conclusion. Advice + is plentiful, and words are as numerous as the blades of grass in our + valley; all that is wanting indecision. The Arabs' hope and stay is dead—Khamis + bin Abdullah is no more. Where are the other warriors of whom the Wangwana + and Wanyamwezi bards sing? Where is mighty Kisesa—great Abdullah bin + Nasib? Where is Sayd, the son of Majid? Kisesa is in Zanzibar, and Sayd, + the son of Majid, is in Ujiji, as yet ignorant that his son has fallen in + the forest of Wilyankuru. + </p> + <p> + Shaw is improving fast. I am unsuccessful as yet in procuring soldiers. I + almost despair of ever being able to move from here. It is such a drowsy, + sleepy, slow, dreaming country. Arabs, Wangwana, Wanyamwezi, are all alike—all + careless how time flies. Their to-morrow means sometimes within a month. + To me it is simply maddening. + </p> + <p> + August 30th.—Shaw will not work. I cannot get him to stir himself. I + have petted him and coaxed him; I have even cooked little luxuries for him + myself. And, while I am straining every nerve to get ready for Ujiji, Shaw + is satisfied with looking on listlessly. What a change from the + ready-handed bold man he was at Zanzibar! + </p> + <p> + I sat down by his side to-day with my palm and needle in order to + encourage him, and to-day, for the first time, I told him of the real + nature of my mission. I told him that I did not care about the geography + of the country half as much as I cared about FINDING LIVINGSTONE! I told + him, for the first time, "Now, my dear Shaw, you think probably that I + have been sent here to find the depth of the Tanganika. Not a bit of it, + man; I was told to find Livingstone. It is to find Livingstone I am here. + It is to find Livingstone I am going. Don't you see, old fellow, the + importance of the mission; don't you see what reward you will get from Mr. + Bennett, if you will help me? I am sure, if ever you come to New York, you + will never be in want of a fifty-dollar bill. So shake yourself; jump + about; look lively. Say you will not die; that is half the battle. Snap + your fingers at the fever. I will guarantee the fever won't kill you. I + have medicine enough for a regiment here!" + </p> + <p> + His eyes lit up a little, but the light that shone in them shortly faded, + and died. I was quite disheartened. I made some strong punch, to put fire + in his veins, that I might see life in him. I put sugar, and eggs, and + seasoned it with lemon and spice. "Drink, Shaw," said I, "and forget your + infirmities. You are not sick, dear fellow; it is only ennui you are + feeling. Look at Selim there. Now, I will bet any amount, that he will not + die; that I will carry him home safe to his friends! I will carry you home + also, if you will, let me!" + </p> + <p> + September 1st:—According to Thani bin Abdullah whom I visited + to-day, at his tembe in Maroro, Mirambo lost two hundred men in the attack + upon Tabora, while the Arabs' losses were, five Arabs, thirteen freemen + and eight slaves, besides three tembes, and over one hundred small huts + burned, two hundred and eighty ivory tusks, and sixty cows and bullocks + captured. + </p> + <p> + September 3rd.—Received a packet of letters and newspapers from + Capt. Webb, at Zanzibar. What a good thing it is that one's friends, even + in far America, think of the absent one in Africa! They tell me, that no + one dreams of my being in Africa yet! + </p> + <p> + I applied to Sheikh bin Nasib to-day to permit Livingstone's caravan to go + under my charge to Ujiji, but he would not listen to it. He says he feels + certain I am going to my death. + </p> + <p> + September 4th.—Shaw is quite well to-day, he says. Selim is down + with the fever. My force is gradually increasing, though some of my old + soldiers are falling off. Umgareza is blind; Baruti has the small-pox very + badly; Sadala has the intermittent. + </p> + <p> + September 5th.—Baruti died this morning. He was one of my best + soldiers; and was one of those men who accompanied Speke to Egypt. Baruti + is number seven of those who have died since leaving Zanzibar. + </p> + <p> + To-day my ears have been poisoned with the reports of the Arabs, about the + state of the country I am about to travel through. "The roads are bad; + they are all stopped; the Ruga-Ruga are out in the forests; the Wakonongo + are coming from the south to help Mirambo; the Washensi are at war, one + tribe against another." My men are getting dispirited, they have imbibed + the fears of the Arabs and the Wanyamwezi. Bombay begins to feel that I + had better go back to the coast, and try again some other time. + </p> + <p> + We buried Baruti under the shade of the banyan-tree, a few yards west of + my tembe. The grave was made four and a half feet deep and three feet + wide. At the bottom on one side a narrow trench was excavated, into which + the body was rolled on his side, with his face turned towards Mecca. The + body was dressed in a doti and a half of new American sheeting. After it + was placed properly in its narrow bed, a sloping roof of sticks, covered + over with matting and old canvas, was made, to prevent the earth from + falling over the body. The grave was then filled, the soldiers laughing + merrily. On the top of the grave was planted a small shrub, and into a + small hole made with the hand, was poured water lest he might feel thirsty—they + said—on his way to Paradise; water was then sprinkled all ever the + grave, and the gourd broken. This ceremony being ended, the men recited + the Arabic Fat-hah, after which they left the grave of their dead comrade + to think no more of him. + </p> + <p> + September 7th.—An Arab named Mohammed presented me to-day with a + little boy-slave, called "Ndugu M'hali" (my brother's wealth). As I did + not like the name, I called the chiefs of my caravan together, and asked + them to give him a better name. One suggested "Simba" (a lion), another + said he thought "Ngombe" (a cow) would suit the boy-child, another thought + he ought to be called "Mirambo," which raised a loud laugh. Bombay thought + "Bombay Mdogo" would suit my black-skinned infant very well. Ulimengo, + however, after looking at his quick eyes, and noting his celerity of + movement, pronounced the name Ka-lu-la as the best for him, "because," + said he, "just look at his eyes, so bright look at his form, so slim! + watch his movements, how quick! Yes, Kalulu is his name." "Yes, bana," + said the others, "let it be Kalulu." + </p> + <p> + "Kalulu" is a Kisawahili term for the young of the blue-buck (perpusilla) + antelope. + </p> + <p> + "Well, then," said I, water being brought in a huge tin pan, Selim, who + was willing to stand godfather, holding him over the water, "let his name + henceforth be Kalulu, and let no man take it from him," and thus it was + that the little black boy of Mohammed's came to be called Kalulu. + </p> + <p> + The Expedition is increasing in numbers. + </p> + <p> + We had quite an alarm before dark. Much firing was heard at Tabora, which + led us to anticipate an attack on Kwihara. It turned out, however, to be a + salute fired in honour of the arrival of Sultan Kitambi to pay a visit to + Mkasiwa, Sultan of Unyanyembe. + </p> + <p> + September 8th.—Towards night Sheikh bin Nasib received a letter from + an Arab at Mfuto, reporting that an attack was made on that place by + Mirambo and his Watuta allies. It also warned him to bid the people of + Kwihara hold themselves in readiness, because if Mirambo succeeded in + storming Mfuto, he would march direct on Kwihara. + </p> + <p> + September 9th.—Mirambo was defeated with severe loss yesterday, in + his attack upon Mfuto. He was successful in an assault he made upon a + small Wanyamwezi village, but when he attempted to storm Mfuto, he was + repulsed with severe loss, losing three of his principal men. Upon + withdrawing his forces from the attack, the inhabitants sallied out, and + followed him to the forest of Umanda, where he was again utterly routed, + himself ingloriously flying from the field. + </p> + <p> + The heads of his chief men slain in the attack were brought to Kwikuru, + the boma of Mkasiwa. + </p> + <p> + September 14th.—The Arab boy Selim is delirious from constant fever. + Shaw is sick again. These two occupy most of my time. I am turned into a + regular nurse, for I have no one to assist me in attending upon them. If I + try to instruct Abdul Kader in the art of being useful, his head is so + befogged with the villainous fumes of Unyamwezi tobacco, that he wanders + bewildered about, breaking dishes, and upsetting cooked dainties, until I + get so exasperated that my peace of mind is broken completely for a full + hour. If I ask Ferajji, my now formally constituted cook, to assist, his + thick wooden head fails to receive an idea, and I am thus obliged to play + the part of chef de cuisine. + </p> + <p> + September 15th.—The third month of my residence in Unyanyembe is + almost finished, and I am still here, but I hope to be gone before the + 23rd inst. + </p> + <p> + All last night, until nine A.M. this morning, my soldiers danced and sang + to the names of their dead comrades, whose bones now bleach in the forests + of Wilyankuru. Two or three huge pots of pombe failed to satisfy the + raging thirst which the vigorous exercise they were engaged in, created. + So, early this morning, I was called upon to contribute a shukka for + another potful of the potent liquor. + </p> + <p> + To-day I was busy selecting the loads for each soldier and pagazi. In + order to lighten their labor as much as possible, I reduced each load from + 70 lbs. to 50 lbs., by which I hope to be enabled to make some long + marches. I have been able to engage ten pagazis during the last two or + three days. + </p> + <p> + I have two or three men still very sick, and it is almost useless to + expect that they will be able to carry anything, but I am in hopes that + other men may be engaged to take their places before the actual day of + departure, which now seems to be drawing near rapidly. + </p> + <p> + September 16th.—We have almost finished our work—on the fifth + day from this—God willing—we shall march. I engaged two more + pagazis besides two guides, named Asmani and Mabruki. If vastness of the + human form could terrify any one, certainly Asmani's appearance is well + calculated to produce that effect. He stands considerably over six feet + without shoes, and has shoulders broad enough for two ordinary men. + </p> + <p> + To-morrow I mean to give the people a farewell feast, to celebrate our + departure from this forbidding and unhappy country. + </p> + <p> + September 17th.—The banquet is ended. I slaughtered two bullocks, + and had a barbacue; three sheep, two goats, and fifteen chickens, 120 lbs. + of rice, twenty large loaves of bread made of Indian corn-flour, one + hundred eggs, 10 lbs. of butter, and five gallons of sweet-milk, were the + contents of which the banquet was formed. The men invited their friends + and neighbours, and about one hundred women and children partook of it. + </p> + <p> + After the banquet was ended, the pombe, or native beer, was brought in in + five gallon pots, and the people commenced their dance, which continues + even now as I write. + </p> + <p> + September 19th.—I had a slight attack of fever to-day, which has + postponed our departure. Selim and Shaw are both recovered. + </p> + <p> + About 8 P.M. Sheik bin Nasib came to me imploring me not to go away + to-morrow, because I was so sick. Thani Sakhburi suggested to me that I + might stay another month. In answer, I told them that white men are not + accustomed to break their words. I had said I would go, and I intended to + go. + </p> + <p> + Sheikh bin Nasib gave up all hope of inducing me to remain another day, + and he has gone away, with a promise to write to Seyd Burghash to tell him + how obstinate I am; and that I am determined to be killed. This was a + parting shot. + </p> + <p> + About 10 P.M. the fever had gone. All were asleep in the tembe but myself, + and an unutterable loneliness came on me as I reflected on my position, + and my intentions, and felt the utter lack of sympathy with me in all + around. It requires more nerve than I possess, to dispel all the dark + presentiments that come upon the mind. But probably what I call + presentiments are simply the impress on the mind of the warnings which + these false-hearted Arabs have repeated so often. This melancholy and + loneliness I feel, may probably have their origin from the same cause. The + single candle, which barely lights up the dark shade that fills the + corners of my room, is but a poor incentive to cheerfulness. I feel as + though I were imprisoned between stone walls. But why should I feel as if + baited by these stupid, slow-witted Arabs and their warnings and + croakings? I fancy a suspicion haunts my mind, as I write, that there lies + some motive behind all this. I wonder if these Arabs tell me all these + things to keep me here, in the hope that I might be induced another time + to assist them in their war with Mirambo! If they think so, they are much + mistaken, for I have taken a solemn, enduring oath, an oath to be kept + while the least hope of life remains in me, not to be tempted to break the + resolution I have formed, never to give up the search, until I find + Livingstone alive, or find his dead body; and never to return home without + the strongest possible proofs that he is alive, or that he is dead. No + living man, or living men, shall stop me, only death can prevent me. But + death—not even this; I shall not die, I will not die, I cannot die! + And something tells me, I do not know what it is—perhaps it is the + ever-living hopefulness of my own nature, perhaps it is the natural + presumption born out of an abundant and glowing vitality, or the outcome + of an overweening confidence in oneself—anyhow and everyhow, + something tells me to-night I shall find him, and—write it larger—FIND + HIM! FIND HIM! Even the words are inspiring. I feel more happy. Have I + uttered a prayer? I shall sleep calmly to-night. + </p> + <p> + I have felt myself compelled to copy out of my Diary the above notes, as + they explain, written as they are on the spot, the vicissitudes of my + "Life at Unyanyembe." To me they appear to explain far better than any + amount of descriptive writing, even of the most graphic, the nature of the + life I led. There they are, unexaggerated, in their literality, precisely + as I conceived them at the time they happened. They speak of fevers + without number to myself and men, they relate our dangers, and little + joys, our annoyances and our pleasures, as they occurred. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0010" id="link2HCH0010"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER X. — TO MRERA, UKONONGO. + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Departure from Unyanyembe.—The expedition reorganized.— + Bombay.—Mr. Shaw returns sick to Unyanyembe.—A noble + forest.-The fever described.—Happiness of the camp.—A + park-land.—Herds of game and noble sport.—A mutiny.— + Punishment of the ringleaders. Elephants.—Arrival at Mrera +</pre> + <p> + The 20th of September had arrived. This was the day I had decided to cut + loose from those who tormented me with their doubts, their fears, and + beliefs, and commence the march to Ujiji by a southern route. I was very + weak from the fever that had attacked me the day before, and it was a most + injudicious act to commence a march under such circumstances. But I had + boasted to Sheikh bin Nasib that a white man never breaks his word, and my + reputation as a white man would have been ruined had I stayed behind, or + postponed the march, in consequence of feebleness. + </p> + <p> + I mustered the entire caravan outside the tembe, our flags and streamers + were unfurled, the men had their loads resting on the walls, there was + considerable shouting, and laughing, and negroidal fanfaronnade. The Arabs + had collected from curiosity's sake to see us off—all except Sheikh + bin Nasib, whom I had offended by my asinine opposition to his wishes. The + old Sheikh took to his bed, but sent his son to bear me a last morsel of + Philosophic sentimentality, which I was to treasure up as the last words + of the patriarchal Sheikh, the son of Nasib, the son of Ali, the son of + Sayf. Poor Sheikh! if thou hadst only known what was at the bottom of this + stubbornness—this ass-like determination to proceed the wrong way—what + wouldst thou then have said, 0 Sheikh? But the Sheikh comforted himself + with the thought that I might know what I was about better than he did, + which is most likely, only neither he nor any other Arab will ever know + exactly the motive that induced me to march at all westward—when the + road to the east was ever so much easier. + </p> + <p> + My braves whom I had enlisted for a rapid march somewhere, out of + Unyanyembe, were named as follows:— + </p> + <p> + 1. John William Shaw, London, England. + </p> + <p> + 2. Selim Heshmy, Arab. + </p> + <p> + 3. Seedy Mbarak Mombay, Zanzibar. + </p> + <p> + 4. Mabruki Spoke, ditto. + </p> + <p> + 5. Ulimengo, ditto + </p> + <p> + 6. Ambari, ditto. + </p> + <p> + 7. Uledi, ditto. + </p> + <p> + 8. Asmani, ditto. + </p> + <p> + 9. Sarmean, ditto. + </p> + <p> + 10. Kamna, ditto. + </p> + <p> + 11. Zaidi, ditto. + </p> + <p> + 12. Khamisi, ditto. + </p> + <p> + 13. Chowpereh, Bagamoyo. + </p> + <p> + 14. Kingaru, ditto. + </p> + <p> + 15. Belali, ditto. + </p> + <p> + 16. Ferous, Unyanyembe. + </p> + <p> + 17. Rojab, Bagamoyo. + </p> + <p> + 18. Mabruk Unyanyembe, Unyanyembe. + </p> + <p> + 19. Mtamani, ditto. + </p> + <p> + 20. Chanda, Maroro. + </p> + <p> + 21. Sadala, Zanzibar. + </p> + <p> + 22. Kombo, ditto. + </p> + <p> + 23. Saburi the Great, Maroro. + </p> + <p> + 24. Saburi the Little, ditto. + </p> + <p> + 25. Marora, ditto. + </p> + <p> + 26. Ferajji (the cook), Zanzibar. + </p> + <p> + 27. Mabruk Saleem, Zanzibar. + </p> + <p> + 28. Baraka, ditto. + </p> + <p> + 29. Ibrahim, Maroro. + </p> + <p> + 30. Mabruk Ferous, ditto. + </p> + <p> + 31. Baruti, Bagamoyo. + </p> + <p> + 32. Umgareza, Zanzibar. + </p> + <p> + 33. Hamadi (the guide), ditto. + </p> + <p> + 34. Asmani, ditto, ditto. + </p> + <p> + 35. Mabruk, ditto ditto. + </p> + <p> + 36. Hamdallah (the guide), Tabora. + </p> + <p> + 37. Jumah, Zanzibar. + </p> + <p> + 38. Maganga, Mkwenkwe. + </p> + <p> + 39. Muccadum, Tabora. + </p> + <p> + 40. Dasturi, ditto. + </p> + <p> + 41. Tumayona, Ujiji. + </p> + <p> + 42. Mparamoto, Ujiji. + </p> + <p> + 43. Wakiri, ditto. + </p> + <p> + 44. Mufu, ditto. + </p> + <p> + 45. Mpepo, ditto. + </p> + <p> + 46. Kapingu, Ujiji. + </p> + <p> + 47. Mashishanga, ditto. + </p> + <p> + 48. Muheruka, ditto. + </p> + <p> + 49. Missossi, ditto. + </p> + <p> + 50. Tufum Byah, ditto. + </p> + <p> + 51. Majwara (boy), Uganda. + </p> + <p> + 52. Belali (boy), Uemba. + </p> + <p> + 53. Kalulu (boy), Lunda. + </p> + <p> + 54. Abdul Kader (tailor), Malabar. + </p> + <p> + These are the men and boys whom I had chosen to be my companions on the + apparently useless mission of seeking for the lost traveller, David + Livingstone. The goods with which I had burdened them, consisted of 1,000 + doti, or 4,000 yds. of cloth, six bags of beads, four loads of ammunition, + one tent, one bed and clothes, one box of medicine, sextant and books, two + loads of tea, coffee, and sugar, one load of flour and candles, one load + of canned meats, sardines, and miscellaneous necessaries, and one load of + cooking utensils. + </p> + <p> + The men were all in their places except Bombay. Bombay had gone; he could + not be found. I despatched a man to hunt him up. He was found weeping in + the arms of his Delilah. + </p> + <p> + "Why did you go away, Bombay, when you knew I intended to go, and was + waiting?" + </p> + <p> + "Oh, master, I was saying good-bye to my missis." + </p> + <p> + "Oh, indeed?" + </p> + <p> + "Yes, master; you no do it, when you go away? + </p> + <p> + "Silence, sir." + </p> + <p> + "Oh! all right." + </p> + <p> + "What is the matter with you, Bombay?" + </p> + <p> + "Oh, nuffin." + </p> + <p> + As I saw he was in a humour to pick a quarrel with me before those Arabs + who had congregated outside of my tembe to witness my departure; and as I + was not in a humour to be balked by anything that might turn up, the + consequence was, that I was obliged to thrash Bombay, an operation which + soon cooled his hot choler, but brought down on my head a loud chorus of + remonstrances from my pretended Arab friends—"Now, master, don't, + don't—stop it, master: the poor man knows better than you what he + and you may expect on the road you are now taking." + </p> + <p> + If anything was better calculated to put me in a rage than Bombay's + insolence before a crowd it was this gratuitous interference with what I + considered my own especial business; but I restrained myself, though I + told them, in a loud voice, that I did not choose to be interfered with, + unless they wished to quarrel with me. + </p> + <p> + "No, no, bana," they all exclaimed; "we do not wish to quarrel with you. + In the name of God! go on your way in peace." + </p> + <p> + "Fare you well, then," said I, shaking hands with them. + </p> + <p> + "Farewell, master, farewell. We wish you, we are sure, all success, and + God be with you, and guide you!" + </p> + <p> + "March!" + </p> + <p> + A parting salute was fired; the flags were raised up by the guides, each + pagazi rushed for his load, and in a short time, with songs and shouts, + the head of the Expedition had filed round the western end of my tembe + along the road to Ugunda. + </p> + <p> + "Now, Mr. Shaw, I am waiting, sir. Mount your donkey, if you cannot walk." + </p> + <p> + "Please, Mr. Stanley, I am afraid I cannot go." + </p> + <p> + "Why?" + </p> + <p> + "I don't know, I am sure. I feel very weak." + </p> + <p> + "So am I weak. It was but late last night, as you know, that the fever + left me. Don't back out before these Arabs; remember you are a white man. + Here, Selim, Mabruki, Bombay, help Mr. Shaw on his donkey, and walk by + him." + </p> + <p> + "Oh, bana, bans," said the Arabs, "don't take him. Do you not see he is + sick?" + </p> + <p> + "You keep away; nothing will prevent me from taking him. He shall go." + </p> + <p> + "Go on, Bombay." + </p> + <p> + The last of my party had gone. The tembe, so lately a busy scene, had + already assumed a naked, desolate appearance. I turned towards the Arabs, + lifted my hat, and said again, "Farewell," then faced about for the south, + followed by my four young gun-bearers, Selim, Kalulu, Majwara, and Belali. + </p> + <p> + After half an hour's march the scenery became more animated. Shaw began to + be amused. Bombay had forgotten our quarrel, and assured me, if I could + pass Mirambo's country, I should "catch the Tanganika;" Mabruki Burton + also believed we should. Selim was glad to leave Unyanyembe, where he had + suffered so much from fever; and there was a something in the bold aspect + of the hills which cropped upward—above fair valleys, that enlivened + and encouraged me to proceed. + </p> + <p> + In an hour and a half, we arrived at our camp in the Kinyamwezi village of + Mkwenkwe, the birthplace—of our famous chanter Maganga. + </p> + <p> + My tent was pitched, the goods were stored in one of the tembes; but + one-half the men had returned to Kwihara, to take one more embrace of + their wives and concubines. + </p> + <p> + Towards night I was attacked once again with the intermittent fever. + Before morning it had departed, leaving me terribly prostrated with + weakness. I had heard the men conversing with each other over their + camp-fires upon the probable prospects of the next day. It was a question + with them whether I should continue the march. Mostly all were of opinion + that, since the master was sick, there would be no march. A superlative + obstinacy, however, impelled me on, merely to spite their supine souls; + but when I sallied out of my tent to call them to get ready, I found that + at least twenty were missing; and Livingstone's letter-carrier, + "Kaif-Halek"—or, How-do-ye-do?—had not arrived with Dr. + Livingstone's letter-bag. + </p> + <p> + Selecting twenty of the strongest and faithfulest men I despatched them + back to Unyanyembe in search of the missing men; and Selim was sent to + Sheikh bin Nasib to borrow, or buy, a long slave-chain. + </p> + <p> + Towards night my twenty detectives returned with nine of the missing men. + The Wajiji had deserted in a body, and they could not be found. Selim also + returned with a strong chain, capable of imprisoning within the collars + attached to it at least ten men. Kaif-Halek also appeared with the + letter-bag which he was to convey to Livingstone under my escort. The men + were then addressed, and the slave-chain exhibited to them. I told them + that I was the first white man who had taken a slave-chain with him on his + travels; but, as they were all so frightened of accompanying me, I was + obliged to make use of it, as it was the only means of keeping them + together. The good need never fear being chained by me—only the + deserters, the thieves, who received their hire and presents, guns and + ammunition, and then ran away. + </p> + <p> + I would not put any one this time in chains; but whoever deserted after + this day, I should halt, and not continue the march till I found him, + after which he should march to Ujiji with the slave-chain round his neck. + "Do you hear?"—"Yes," was the answer. "Do you understand?"—"Yes." + </p> + <p> + We broke up camp at 6 P.M., and took the road for Inesuka, at which place + we arrived at 8 P.M. + </p> + <p> + When we were about commencing the march the next morning, it was + discovered that two more had deserted. Baraka and Bombay were at once + despatched to Unyanyembe to bring back the two missing men—Asmani + and Kingaru—with orders not to return without them. This was the + third time that the latter had deserted, as the reader may remember. While + the pursuit was being effected we halted at the village of Inesuka, more + for the sake of Shaw than any one else. + </p> + <p> + In the evening the incorrigible deserters were brought back, and, as I had + threatened, were well flogged and chained, to secure them against further + temptation. Bombay and Baraka had a picturesque story to relate of the + capture; and, as I was in an exceedingly good humour, their services were + rewarded with a fine cloth each. + </p> + <p> + On the following morning another carrier had absconded, taking with him + his hire of fifteen new cloths and a gun but to halt anywhere near + Unyanyembe any longer was a danger that could be avoided only by + travelling without stoppages towards the southern jungle-lands. It will be + remembered I had in my train the redoubtable Abdul Kader, the tailor, he + who had started from Bagamoyo with such bright anticipations of the wealth + of ivory to be obtained in the great interior of Africa. On this morning, + daunted by the reports of the dangers ahead, Abdul Kader craved to be + discharged. He vowed he was sick, and unable to proceed any further. As I + was pretty well tired of him, I paid him off in cloth, and permitted him + to go. + </p> + <p> + About half way to Kasegera Mabruk Saleem was suddenly taken sick. I + treated him with a grain of calomel, and a couple of ounces of brandy. As + he was unable to walk, I furnished him with a donkey. Another man named + Zaidi was ill with a rheumatic fever; and Shaw tumbled twice off the + animal he was riding, and required an infinite amount of coaxing to mount + again. Verily, my expedition was pursued by adverse fortunes, and it + seemed as if the Fates had determined upon our return. It really appeared + as if everything was going to wreck and ruin. If I were only fifteen days + from Unyanyembe, thought I, I should be saved! + </p> + <p> + Kasegera was a scene of rejoicing the afternoon and evening of our + arrival. Absentees had just returned from the coast, and the youths were + brave in their gaudy bedizenment, their new barsatis, their soharis, and + long cloths of bright new kaniki, with which they had adorned themselves + behind some bush before they had suddenly appeared dressed in all this + finery. The women "Hi-hi'ed" like maenads, and the "Lu-lu-lu'ing" was + loud, frequent, and fervent the whole of that afternoon. Sylphlike damsels + looked up to the youthful heroes with intensest admiration on their + features; old women coddled and fondled them; staff-using, stooping-backed + patriarchs blessed them. This is fame in Unyamwezi! All the fortunate + youths had to use their tongues until the wee hours of next morning had + arrived, relating all the wonders they had seen near the Great Sea, and in + the "Unguja," the island of Zanzibar; of how they saw great white men's + ships, and numbers of white men, of their perils and trials during their + journey through the land of the fierce Wagogo, and divers other facts, + with which the reader and I are by this time well acquainted. + </p> + <p> + On the 24th we struck camp, and marched through a forest of imbiti wood in + a S.S.W. direction, and in about three hours came to Kigandu. + </p> + <p> + On arriving before this village, which is governed by a daughter of + Mkasiwa, we were informed we could not enter unless we paid toll. As we + would not pay toll, we were compelled to camp in a ruined, rat-infested + boma, situated a mile to the left of Kigandu, being well scolded by the + cowardly natives for deserting Mkasiwa in his hour of extremity. We were + accused of running away from the war. + </p> + <p> + Almost on the threshold of our camp Shaw, in endeavouring to dismount, + lost his stirrups, and fell prone on his face. The foolish fellow + actually, laid on the ground in the hot sun a full hour; and when I coldly + asked him if he did not feel rather uncomfortable, he sat up, and wept + like a child. + </p> + <p> + "Do you wish to go back, Mr. Shaw?" + </p> + <p> + "If you please. I do not believe I can go any farther; and if you would + only be kind enough, I should like to return very much." + </p> + <p> + "Well, Mr. Shaw, I have come to the conclusion that it is best, you should + return. My patience is worn out. I have endeavoured faithfully to lift you + above these petty miseries which you nourish so devotedly. You are simply + suffering from hypochondria. You imagine yourself sick, and nothing, + evidently, will persuade you that you are not. Mark my words—to + return to Unyanyembe, is to DIE! Should you happen to fall sick in Kwihara + who knows how to administer medicine to you? Supposing you are delirious, + how can any of the soldiers know what you want, or what is beneficial and + necessary for you? Once again, I repeat, if you return, you DIE!" + </p> + <p> + "Ah, dear me; I wish I had never ventured to come! I thought life in + Africa was so different from this. I would rather go back if you will + permit me." + </p> + <p> + The next day was a halt, and arrangements were made for the transportation + of Shaw back to Kwihara. A strong litter was made, and four stout pagazis + were hired at Kigandu to carry him. Bread was baked, a canteen was filled + with cold tea, and a leg of a kid was roasted for his sustenance while on + the road. + </p> + <p> + The night before we parted we spent together. Shaw played some tunes on an + accordion which I had purchased for him at Zanzibar; but, though it was + only a miserable ten-dollar affair, I thought the homely tunes evoked from + the instrument that night were divine melodies. The last tune played + before retiring was "Home, sweet Home." + </p> + <p> + The morning of the 27th we were all up early: There was considerable vis + in our movements. A long, long march lay before us that day; but then I + was to leave behind all the sick and ailing. Only those who were healthy, + and could march fast and long, were to accompany me. Mabruk Saleem I left + in charge of a native doctor, who was to medicate him for a gift of cloth + which I gave him in advance. + </p> + <p> + The horn sounded to get ready. Shaw was lifted in his litter on the + shoulders of his carriers. My men formed two ranks; the flags were lifted; + and between these two living rows, and under those bright streamers, which + were to float over the waters of the Tanganika before he should see them + again, Shaw was borne away towards the north; while we filed off to the + south, with quicker and more elastic steps, as if we felt an incubus had + been taken from us. + </p> + <p> + We ascended a ridge bristling with syenite boulders of massive size, + appearing above a forest of dwarf trees. The view which we saw was similar + to that we had often seen elsewhere. An illimitable forest stretching in + grand waves far beyond the ken of vision—ridges, forest-clad, rising + gently one above another until they receded in the dim purple-blue + distance—with a warm haze floating above them, which, though clear + enough in our neighbourhood, became impenetrably blue in the far distance. + Woods, woods, woods, leafy branches, foliage globes, or parachutes, green, + brown, or sere in colour, forests one above another, rising, falling, and + receding—a very leafy ocean. The horizon, at all points, presents + the same view, there may be an indistinct outline of a hill far away, or + here and there a tall tree higher than the rest conspicuous in its + outlines against the translucent sky—with this exception it is the + same—the same clear sky dropping into the depths of the forest, the + same outlines, the same forest, the same horizon, day after day, week + after week; we hurry to the summit of a ridge, expectant of a change, but + the wearied eyes, after wandering over the vast expanse, return to the + immediate surroundings, satiated with the eversameness of such scenes. + Carlyle, somewhere in his writings, says, that though the Vatican is + great, it is but the chip of an eggshell compared to the star-fretted dome + where Arcturus and Orion glance for ever; and I say that, though the grove + of Central Park, New York, is grand compared to the thin groves seen in + other great cities, that though the Windsor and the New Forests may be + very fine and noble in England, yet they are but fagots of sticks compared + to these eternal forests of Unyamwezi. + </p> + <p> + We marched three hours, and then halted for refreshments. I perceived that + the people were very tired, not yet inured to a series of long marches, or + rather, not in proper trim for earnest, hard work after our long rest in + Kwihara. When we resumed our march again there were several manifestations + of bad temper and weariness. But a few good-natured remarks about their + laziness put them on their mettle, and we reached Ugunda at 2 P.M. after + another four hours' spurt. + </p> + <p> + Ugunda is a very large village in the district of Ugunda, which adjoins + the southern frontier of Unyanyembe. The village probably numbers four + hundred families, or two thousand souls. It is well protected by a tall + and strong palisade of three-inch timber. Stages have been erected at + intervals above the palisades with miniature embrasures in the timber, for + the muskets of the sharpshooters, who take refuge within these box-like + stages to pick out the chiefs of an attacking force. An inner ditch, with + the sand or soil thrown up three or four feet high against the palings, + serves as protection for the main body of the defenders, who kneel in the + ditch, and are thus enabled to withstand a very large force. For a mile or + two outside the village all obstructions are cleared, and the besieged are + thus warned by sharp-eyed watchers to be prepared for the defence before + the enemy approaches within musket range. Mirambo withdrew his force of + robbers from before this strongly-defended village after two or three + ineffectual attempts to storm it, and the Wagunda have been congratulating + themselves ever since, upon having driven away the boldest marauder that + Unyamwezi has seen for generations. + </p> + <p> + The Wagunda have about three thousand acres under cultivation around their + principal village, and this area suffices to produce sufficient grain not + only for their own consumption, but also for the many caravans which pass + by this way for Ufipa and Marungu. + </p> + <p> + However brave the Wagunda may be within the strong enclosure with which + they have surrounded their principal village, they are not exempt from the + feeling of insecurity which fills the soul of a Mnyamwezi during war-time. + At this place the caravans are accustomed to recruit their numbers from + the swarms of pagazis who volunteer to accompany them to the distant ivory + regions south; but I could not induce a soul to follow me, so great was + their fear of Mirambo and his Ruga-Raga. They were also full of rumors of + wars ahead. It was asserted that Mbogo was advancing towards Ugunda with a + thousand Wakonongo, that the Wazavira had attacked a caravan four months + previously, that Simba was scouring the country with a band of ferocious + mercenaries, and much more of the same nature and to the same intent. + </p> + <p> + On the 28th we arrived at a small snug village embosomed within the forest + called Benta, three hours and a quarter from Ugunda. The road led through + the cornfields of the Wagunda, and then entered the clearings around the + villages of Kisari, within one of which we found the proprietor of a + caravan who was drumming up carriers for Ufipa. He had been halted here + two months, and he made strenuous exertions to induce my men to join his + caravan, a proceeding that did not tend to promote harmony between us. A + few days afterwards I found, on my return, that he had given up the idea + of proceeding south. Leaving Kisari, we marched through a thin jungle of + black jack, over sun-cracked ground with here and there a dried-up pool, + the bottom of which was well tramped by elephant and rhinoceros. Buffalo + and zebra tracks were now frequent, and we were buoyed up with the hope + that before long we should meet game. + </p> + <p> + Benta was well supplied with Indian corn and a grain which the natives + called choroko, which I take to be vetches. I purchased a large supply of + choroko for my own personal use, as I found it to be a most healthy food. + The corn was stored on the flat roofs of the tembes in huge boxes made out + of the bark of the mtundu-tree. The largest box I have ever seen in Africa + was seen here. It might be taken for a Titan's hat-box; it was seven feet + in diameter, and ten feet in height. + </p> + <p> + On the 29th, after travelling in a S.W. by S. direction, we reached + Kikuru. The march lasted for five hours over sun-cracked plains, growing + the black jack, and ebony, and dwarf shrubs, above which numerous + ant-hills of light chalky-coloured earth appeared like sand dunes. + </p> + <p> + The mukunguru, a Kisawahili term for fever, is frequent in this region of + extensive forests and flat plains, owing to the imperfect drainage + provided by nature for them. In the dry season there is nothing very + offensive in the view of the country. The burnt grass gives rather a + sombre aspect to the country, covered with the hard-baked tracks of + animals which haunt these plains during the latter part of the rainy + season. In the forest numbers of trees lie about in the last stages of + decay, and working away with might and main on the prostrate trunks may be + seen numberless insects of various species. Impalpably, however, the + poison of the dead and decaying vegetation is inhaled into the system with + a result sometimes as fatal as that which is said to arise from the + vicinity of the Upas-tree. + </p> + <p> + The first evil results experienced from the presence of malaria are + confined bowels and an oppressive languor, excessive drowsiness, and a + constant disposition to yawn. The tongue assumes a yellowish, sickly hue, + coloured almost to blackness; even the teeth become yellow, and are coated + with an offensive matter. The eyes of the patient sparkle lustrously, and + become suffused with water. These are sure symptoms of the incipient fever + which shortly will rage through the system. + </p> + <p> + Sometimes this fever is preceded by a violent shaking fit, during which + period blankets may be heaped on the patient's form, with but little + amelioration of the deadly chill he feels. It is then succeeded by an + unusually severe headache, with excessive pains about the loins and spinal + column, which presently will spread over the shoulder-blades, and, running + up the neck, find a final lodgment in the back and front of the head. + Usually, however, the fever is not preceded by a chill, but after languor + and torpitude have seized him, with excessive heat and throbbing temples, + the loin and spinal column ache, and raging thirst soon possesses him. The + brain becomes crowded with strange fancies, which sometimes assume most + hideous shapes. Before the darkened vision of the suffering man, float in + a seething atmosphere, figures of created and uncreated reptiles, which + are metamorphosed every instant into stranger shapes and designs, growing + every moment more confused, more complicated, more hideous and terrible. + Unable to bear longer the distracting scene, he makes an effort and opens, + his eyes, and dissolves the delirious dream, only, however, to glide again + unconsciously into another dream-land where another unreal inferno is + dioramically revealed, and new agonies suffered. Oh! the many many hours, + that I have groaned under the terrible incubi which the fits of real + delirium evoke. Oh! the racking anguish of body that a traveller in Africa + must undergo! Oh! the spite, the fretfulness, the vexation which the + horrible phantasmagoria of diabolisms induce! The utmost patience fails to + appease, the most industrious attendance fails to gratify, the deepest + humility displeases. During these terrible transitions, which induce + fierce distraction, Job himself would become irritable, insanely furious, + and choleric. A man in such a state regards himself as the focus of all + miseries. When recovered, he feels chastened, becomes urbane and + ludicrously amiable, he conjures up fictitious delights from all things + which, but yesterday, possessed for him such awful portentous aspects. His + men he regards with love and friendship; whatever is trite he views with + ecstasy. Nature appears charming; in the dead woods and monotonous forest + his mind becomes overwhelmed with delight. I speak for myself, as a + careful analysation of the attack, in all its severe, plaintive, and silly + phases, appeared to me. I used to amuse myself with taking notes of the + humorous and the terrible, the fantastic and exaggerated pictures that + were presented to me—even while suffering the paroxysms induced by + fever. + </p> + <p> + We arrived at a large pool, known as the Ziwani, after a four hours' march + in a S.S.W. direction, the 1st of October. We discovered an old half-burnt + khambi, sheltered by a magnificent mkuyu (sycamore), the giant of the + forests of Unyamwezi, which after an hour we transformed into a splendid + camp. + </p> + <p> + If I recollect rightly, the stem of the tree measured thirty-eight feet in + circumference. It is the finest tree of its kind I have seen in Africa. A + regiment might with perfect ease have reposed under this enormous dome of + foliage during a noon halt. The diameter of the shadow it cast on the + ground was one hundred and twenty feet. The healthful vigor that I was + enjoying about this time enabled me to regard my surroundings admiringly. + A feeling of comfort and perfect contentment took possession of me, such + as I knew not while fretting at Unyanyembe, wearing my life away in + inactivity. I talked with my people as to my friends and equals. We argued + with each other about our prospects in quite a companionable, sociable + vein. + </p> + <p> + When daylight was dying, and the sun was sinking down rapidly over the + western horizon, vividly painting the sky with the colours of gold and + silver, saffron, and opal, when its rays and gorgeous tints were reflected + upon the tops of the everlasting forest, with the quiet and holy calm of + heaven resting upon all around, and infusing even into the untutored minds + of those about me the exquisite enjoyments of such a life as we were now + leading in the depths of a great expanse of forest, the only and sole + human occupants of it—this was the time, after our day's work was + ended, and the camp was in a state of perfect security, when we all would + produce our pipes, and could best enjoy the labors which we had performed, + and the contentment which follows a work well done. + </p> + <p> + Outside nothing is heard beyond the cry of a stray florican, or + guinea-fowl, which has lost her mate, or the hoarse croaking of the frogs + in the pool hard by, or the song of the crickets which seems to lull the + day to rest; inside our camp are heard the gurgles of the gourd pipes as + the men inhale the blue ether, which I also love. I am contented and + happy, stretched on my carpet under the dome of living foliage, smoking my + short meerschaum, indulging in thoughts—despite the beauty of the + still grey light of the sky; and of the air of serenity which prevails + around—of home and friends in distant America, and these thoughts + soon change to my work—yet incomplete—to the man who to me is + yet a myth, who, for all I know, may be dead, or may be near or far from + me tramping through just such a forest, whose tops I see bound the view + outside my camp. We are both on the same soil, perhaps in the same forest—who + knows?—yet is he to me so far removed that he might as well be in + his own little cottage of Ulva. Though I am even now ignorant of his very + existence, yet I feel a certain complacency, a certain satisfaction which + would be difficult to describe. Why is man so feeble, and weak, that he + must tramp, tramp hundreds of miles to satisfy the doubts his impatient + and uncurbed mind feels? Why cannot my form accompany the bold flights of + my mind and satisfy the craving I feel to resolve the vexed question that + ever rises to my lips—"Is he alive?" O soul of mine, be patient, + thou hast a felicitous tranquillity, which other men might envy thee! + Sufficient for the hour is the consciousness thou hast that thy mission is + a holy one! Onward, and be hopeful! + </p> + <p> + Monday, the 2nd of October, found us traversing the forest and plain that + extends from the Ziwani to Manyara, which occupied us six and a half + hours. The sun was intensely hot; but the mtundu and miombo trees grew at + intervals, just enough to admit free growth to each tree, while the + blended foliage formed a grateful shade. The path was clear and easy, the + tamped and firm red soil offered no obstructions. The only provocation we + suffered was from the attacks of the tsetse, or panga (sword) fly, which + swarmed here. We knew we were approaching an extensive habitat of game, + and we were constantly on the alert for any specimens that might be + inhabiting these forests. + </p> + <p> + While we were striding onward, at the rate of nearly three miles an hour, + the caravan I perceived sheered off from the road, resuming it about fifty + yards ahead of something on the road, to which the attention of the men + was directed. On coming up, I found the object to be the dead body of a + man, who had fallen a victim to that fearful scourge of Africa, the + small-pox. He was one of Oseto's gang of marauders, or guerillas, in the + service of Mkasiwa of Unyanyembe, who were hunting these forests for the + guerillas of Mirambo. They had been returning from Ukonongo from a raid + they had instituted against the Sultan of Mbogo, and they had left their + comrade to perish in the road. He had apparently been only one day dead. + </p> + <p> + Apropos of this, it was a frequent thing with us to discover a skeleton or + a skull on the roadside. Almost every day we saw one, sometimes two, of + these relics of dead, and forgotten humanity. + </p> + <p> + Shortly after this we emerged from the forest, and entered a mbuga, or + plain, in which we saw a couple of giraffes, whose long necks were seen + towering above a bush they had been nibbling at. This sight was greeted + with a shout; for we now knew we had entered the game country, and that + near the Gombe creek, or river, where we intended to halt, we should see + plenty of these animals. + </p> + <p> + A walk of three hours over this hot plain brought us to the cultivated + fields of Manyara. Arriving before the village-gate, we were forbidden to + enter, as the country was throughout in a state of war, and it behoved + them to be very careful of admitting any party, lest the villagers might + be compromised. We were, however, directed to a khambi to the right of the + village, near some pools of clear water, where we discovered some half + dozen ruined huts, which looked very uncomfortable to tired people. + </p> + <p> + After we had built our camp, the kirangozi was furnished with some cloths + to purchase food from the village for the transit of a wilderness in front + of us, which was said to extend nine marches, or 135 miles. He was + informed that the Mtemi had strictly prohibited his people from selling + any grain whatever. + </p> + <p> + This evidently was a case wherein the exercise of a little diplomacy could + only be effective; because it would detain us several days here, if we + were compelled to send men back to Kikuru for provisions. Opening a bale + of choice goods, I selected two royal cloths, and told Bombay to carry + them to him, with the compliments and friendship of the white man. The + Sultan sulkily refused them, and bade him return to the white man and tell + him not to bother him. Entreaties were of no avail, he would not relent; + and the men, in exceedingly bad temper, and hungry, were obliged to go to + bed supperless. The words of Njara, a slave-trader, and parasite of the + great Sheikh bin Nasib, recurred to me. "Ah, master, master, you will find + the people will be too much for you, and that you will have to return. The + Wa-manyara are bad, the Wakonongo are very bad, the Wazavira are the worst + of all. You have come to this country at a bad time. It is war + everywhere." And, indeed, judging from the tenor of the conversations + around our camp-fires, it seemed but too evident. There was every prospect + of a general decamp of all my people. However, I told them not to be + discouraged; that I would get food for them in the morning. + </p> + <p> + The bale of choice cloths was opened again next morning, and four royal + cloths were this time selected, and two dotis of Merikani, and Bombay was + again despatched, burdened with compliments, and polite words. + </p> + <p> + It was necessary to be very politic with a man who was so surly, and too + powerful to make an enemy of. What if he made up his mind to imitate the + redoubtable Mirambo, King of Uyoweh! The effect of my munificent + liberality was soon seen in the abundance of provender which came to my + camp. Before an hour went by, there came boxes full of choroko, beans, + rice, matama or dourra, and Indian corn, carried on the heads of a dozen + villagers, and shortly after the Mtemi himself came, followed by about + thirty musketeers and twenty spearmen, to visit the first white man ever + seen on this road. Behind these warriors came a liberal gift, fully equal + in value to that sent to him, of several large gourds of honey, fowls, + goats, and enough vetches and beans to supply my men with four days' food. + </p> + <p> + I met the chief at the gate of my camp, and bowing profoundly, invited him + to my tent, which I had arranged as well as my circumstances would permit, + for this reception. My Persian carpet and bear skin were spread out, and a + broad piece of bran-new crimson cloth covered my kitanda, or bedstead. + </p> + <p> + The chief, a tall robust man, and his chieftains, were invited to seat + themselves. They cast a look of such gratified surprise at myself, at my + face, my clothes, and guns, as is almost impossible to describe. They + looked at me intently for a few seconds, and then at each other, which + ended in an uncontrollable burst of laughter, and repeated snappings of + the fingers. They spoke the Kinyamwezi language, and my interpreter + Maganga was requested to inform the chief of the great delight I felt in + seeing them. After a short period expended in interchanging compliments, + and a competitive excellence at laughing at one another, their chief + desired me to show him my guns. The "sixteen-shooter," the Winchester + rifle, elicited a thousand flattering observations from the excited man; + and the tiny deadly revolvers, whose beauty and workmanship they thought + were superhuman, evoked such gratified eloquence that I was fain to try + something else. The double-barrelled guns fired with heavy charges of + power, caused them to jump up in affected alarm, and then to subside into + their seats convulsed with laughter. As the enthusiasm of my guests + increased, they seized each other's index fingers, screwed them, and + pulled at them until I feared they would end in their dislocation. After + having explained to them the difference between white men and Arabs, I + pulled out my medicine chest, which evoked another burst of rapturous + sighs at the cunning neatness of the array of vials. He asked what they + meant. + </p> + <p> + "Dowa," I replied sententiously, a word which may be interpreted—medicine. + </p> + <p> + "Oh-h, oh-h," they murmured admiringly. I succeeded, before long, in + winning unqualified admiration, and my superiority, compared to the best + of the Arabs they had seen, was but too evident. "Dowa, dowa," they added. + </p> + <p> + "Here," said I, uncorking a vial of medicinal brandy, "is the Kisungu + pombe" (white man's beer); "take a spoonful and try it," at the same time + handing it. + </p> + <p> + "Hacht, hacht, oh, hacht! what! eh! what strong beer the white men have! + Oh, how my throat burns!" + </p> + <p> + "Ah, but it is good," said I, "a little of it makes men feel strong, and + good; but too much of it makes men bad, and they die." + </p> + <p> + "Let me have some," said one of the chiefs; "and me," "and me," "and me," + as soon as each had tasted. + </p> + <p> + "I next produced a bottle of concentrated ammonia, which as I explained + was for snake bites, and head-aches; the Sultan immediately complained he + had a head-ache, and must have a little. Telling him to close his eyes, I + suddenly uncorked the bottle, and presented it to His Majesty's nose. The + effect was magical, for he fell back as if shot, and such contortions as + his features underwent are indescribable. His chiefs roared with laughter, + and clapped their hands, pinched each other, snapped their fingers, and + committed many other ludicrous things. I verily believe if such a scene + were presented on any stage in the world the effect of it would be visible + instantaneously on the audience; that had they seen it as I saw it, they + would have laughed themselves to hysteria and madness. Finally the Sultan + recovered himself, great tears rolling down his cheeks, and his features + quivering with laughter, then he slowly uttered the word 'kali,'—hot, + strong, quick, or ardent medicine. He required no more, but the other + chiefs pushed forward to get one wee sniff, which they no sooner had, than + all went into paroxysms of uncontrollable laughter. The entire morning was + passed in this state visit, to the mutual satisfaction of all concerned. + 'Oh,' said the Sultan at parting, 'these white men know everything, the + Arabs are dirt compared to them!'" + </p> + <p> + That night Hamdallah, one of the guides, deserted, carrying with him his + hire (27 doti), and a gun. It was useless to follow him in the morning, as + it would have detained me many more days than I could afford; but I + mentally vowed that Mr. Hamdallah should work out those 27 doti of cloths + before I reached the coast. + </p> + <p> + Wednesday, October 4th, saw us travelling to the Gombe River, which is 4 + h. 15 m. march from Manyara. + </p> + <p> + We had barely left the waving cornfields of my friend Ma-manyara before we + came in sight of a herd of noble zebra; two hours afterwards we had + entered a grand and noble expanse of park land, whose glorious + magnificence and vastness of prospect, with a far-stretching carpet of + verdure darkly flecked here and there by miniature clumps of jungle, with + spreading trees growing here and there, was certainly one of the finest + scenes to be seen in Africa. Added to which, as I surmounted one of the + numerous small knolls, I saw herds after herds of buffalo and zebra, + giraffe and antelope, which sent the blood coursing through my veins in + the excitement of the moment, as when I first landed on African soil. We + crept along the plain noiselessly to our camp on the banks of the sluggish + waters of the Gombe. + </p> + <p> + Here at last was the hunter's Paradise! How petty and insignificant + appeared my hunts after small antelope and wild boar what a foolish waste + of energies those long walks through damp grasses and through thorny + jungles! Did I not well remember ' my first bitter experience in African + jungles when in the maritime region! But this—where is the + nobleman's park that can match this scene? Here is a soft, velvety expanse + of young grass, grateful shade under those spreading clumps; herds of + large and varied game browsing within easy rifle range. Surely I must feel + amply compensated now for the long southern detour I have made, when such + a prospect as this opens to the view! No thorny jungles and rank smelling + swamps are here to daunt the hunter, and to sicken his aspirations after + true sport! No hunter could aspire after a nobler field to display his + prowess. + </p> + <p> + Having settled the position of the camp, which overlooked one of the pools + found in the depression of the Gombe creek, I took my double-barrelled + smooth-bore, and sauntered off to the park-land. Emerging from behind a + clump, three fine plump spring-bok were seen browsing on the young grass + just within one hundred yards. I knelt down and fired; one unfortunate + antelope bounded upward instinctively, and fell dead. Its companions + sprang high into the air, taking leaps about twelve feet in length, as if + they were quadrupeds practising gymnastics, and away they vanished, rising + up like India-rubber balls; until a knoll hid them from view. My success + was hailed with loud shouts by the soldiers; who came running out from the + camp as soon as they heard the reverberation of the gun, and my gun-bearer + had his knife at the beast's throat, uttering a fervent "Bismillah!" as he + almost severed the head from the body. + </p> + <p> + Hunters were now directed to proceed east and north to procure meat, + because in each caravan it generally happens that there are fundi, whose + special trade it is to hunt for meat for the camp. Some of these are + experts in stalking, but often find themselves in dangerous positions, + owing to the near approach necessary, before they can fire their most + inaccurate weapons with any certainty. + </p> + <p> + After luncheon, consisting of spring-bok steak, hot corn-cake, and a cup + of delicious Mocha coffee, I strolled towards the south-west, accompanied + by Kalulu and Majwara, two boy gun-bearers. The tiny perpusilla started up + like rabbits from me as I stole along through the underbrush; the + honey-bird hopped from tree to tree chirping its call, as if it thought I + was seeking the little sweet treasure, the hiding-place of which it only + knew; but no! I neither desired perpusilla nor the honey. I was on the + search for something great this day. Keen-eyed fish-eagles and bustards + poised on trees above the sinuous Gombe thought, and probably with good + reason that I was after them; judging by the ready flight with which both + species disappeared as they sighted my approach. Ah, no! nothing but + hartebeest, zebra, giraffe, eland, and buffalo this day! After following + the Gombe's course for about a mile, delighting my eyes with long looks at + the broad and lengthy reaches of water to which I was so long a stranger, + I came upon a scene which delighted the innermost recesses of my soul; + five, six, seven, eight, ten zebras switching their beautiful striped + bodies, and biting one another, within about one hundred and fifty yards. + The scene was so pretty, so romantic, never did I so thoroughly realize + that I was in Central Africa. I felt momentarily proud that I owned such a + vast domain, inhabited with such noble beasts. Here I possessed, within + reach of a leaden ball, any one I chose of the beautiful animals, the + pride of the African forests! It was at my option to shoot any of them! + Mine they were without money or without price; yet, knowing this, twice I + dropped my rifle, loth to wound the royal beasts, but—crack! and a + royal one was on his back battling the air with his legs. Ah, it was such + a pity! but, hasten, draw the keen sharp-edged knife across the beautiful + stripes which fold around the throat; and—what an ugly gash! it is + done, and 1 have a superb animal at my feet. Hurrah! I shall taste of + Ukonongo zebra to-night. + </p> + <p> + I thought a spring-bok and zebra enough for one day's sport, especially + after a long march. The Gombe, a long stretch of deep water, winding in + and out of green groves, calm, placid, with lotus leaves lightly resting + on its surface, all pretty, picturesque, peaceful as a summer's dream, + looked very inviting for a bath. I sought out the most shady spot under a + wide-spreading mimosa, from which the ground sloped smooth as a lawn, to + the still, clear water. I ventured to undress, and had already stepped in + to my ancles in the water, and had brought my hands together for a + glorious dive, when my attention was attracted by an enormously long body + which shot into view, occupying the spot beneath the surface that I was + about to explore by a "header." Great heavens, it was a crocodile! I + sprang backward instinctively, and this proved my salvation, for the + monster turned away with the most disappointed look, and I was left to + congratulate myself upon my narrow escape from his jaws, and to register a + vow never to be tempted again by the treacherous calm of an African river. + </p> + <p> + As soon as I had dressed I turned away from the now repulsive aspect of + the stream. In strolling through the jungle, towards my camp, I detected + the forms of two natives looking sharply about them, and, after bidding my + young attendants to preserve perfect quiet, I crept on towards them, and, + by the aid of a thick clump of underbush, managed to arrive within a few + feet of the natives undetected. Their mere presence in the immense forest, + unexplained, was a cause of uneasiness in the then disturbed state of the + country, and my intention was to show myself suddenly to them, and note + its effect, which, if it betokened anything hostile to the Expedition, + could without difficulty be settled at once, with the aid of my + double-barrelled smooth-bore. + </p> + <p> + As I arrived on one side of this bush, the two suspicious-looking natives + arrived on the other side, and we were separated by only a few feet. I + made a bound, and we were face to face. The natives cast a glance at the + sudden figure of a white man, and seemed petrified for a moment, but then, + recovering themselves, they shrieked out, "Bana, bana, you don't know us. + We are Wakonongo, who came to your camp to accompany you to Mrera, and we + are looking for honey." + </p> + <p> + "Oh, to be sure, you are the Wakonongo. Yes—Yes. Ah, it is all right + now, I thought you might be Ruga-Ruga." + </p> + <p> + So the two parties, instead of being on hostile terms with each other, + burst out laughing. The Wakonongo enjoyed it very much, and laughed + heartily as they proceeded on their way to search for the wild honey. On a + piece of bark they carried a little fire with which they smoked the bees + out from their nest in the great mtundu-trees. + </p> + <p> + The adventures of the day were over; the azure of the sky had changed to a + dead grey; the moon was appearing just over the trees; the water of the + Gombe was like a silver belt; hoarse frogs bellowed their notes loudly by + the margin of the creek; the fish-eagles uttered their dirge-like cries as + they were perched high on the tallest tree; elands snorted their warning + to the herds in the forest; stealthy forms of the carnivora stole through + the dark woods outside of our camp. Within the high inclosure of bush and + thorn, which we had raised around our camp, all was jollity, laughter, and + radiant, genial comfort. Around every camp-fire dark forms of men were + seen squatted: one man gnawed at a luscious bone; another sucked the rich + marrow in a zebra's leg-bone; another turned the stick, garnished with + huge kabobs, to the bright blaze; another held a large rib over a flame; + there were others busy stirring industriously great black potfuls of + ugali, and watching anxiously the meat simmering, and the soup bubbling, + while the fire-light flickered and danced bravely, and cast a bright glow + over the naked forms of the men, and gave a crimson tinge to the tall tent + that rose in the centre of the camp, like a temple sacred to some + mysterious god; the fires cast their reflections upon the massive arms of + the trees, as they branched over our camp, and, in the dark gloom of their + foliage, the most fantastic shadows were visible. Altogether it was a + wild, romantic, and impressive scene. But little recked my men for shadows + and moonlight, for crimson tints, and temple-like tents—they were + all busy relating their various experiences, and gorging themselves with + the rich meats our guns had obtained for us. One was telling how he had + stalked a wild boar, and the furious onset the wounded animal made on him, + causing him to drop his gun, and climb a tree, and the terrible grunt of + the beast he well remembered, and the whole welkin rang with the peals of + laughter which his mimic powers evoked. Another had shot a buffalo-calf, + and another had bagged a hartebeest; the Wakonongo related their laughable + rencontre with me in the woods, and were lavish in their description of + the stores of honey to be found in the woods; and all this time Selim and + his youthful subs were trying their sharp teeth on the meat of a young pig + which one of the hunters had shot, but which nobody else would eat, + because of the Mohammedan aversion to pig, which they had acquired during + their transformation from negro savagery to the useful docility of the + Zanzibar freed-man. + </p> + <p> + We halted the two following days, and made frequent raids on the herds of + this fine country. The first day I was fairly successful again in the + sport. I bagged a couple of antelopes, a kudu (A. strepsiceros) with fine + twisting horns, and a pallah-buck (A. melampus), a reddish-brown animal, + standing about three and a half feet, with broad posteriors. I might have + succeeded in getting dozens of animals had I any of those accurate, heavy + rifles manufactured by Lancaster, Reilly, or Blissett, whose every shot + tells. But my weapons, save my light smoothbore, were unfit for African + game. My weapons were more for men. With the Winchester rifle, and the + Starr's carbine, I was able to hit anything within two hundred yards, but + the animals, though wounded, invariably managed to escape the knife, until + I was disgusted with the pea-bullets. What is wanted for this country is a + heavy bore—No. 10 or 12 is the real bone-crusher—that will + drop every animal shot in its tracks, by which all fatigue and + disappointment are avoided. Several times during these two days was I + disappointed after most laborious stalking and creeping along the ground. + Once I came suddenly upon an eland while I had a Winchester rifle in my + hand—the eland and myself mutually astonished—at not more than + twenty-five yards apart. I fired at its chest, and bullet, true to its + aim, sped far into the internal parts, and the blood spouted from the + wound: in a few minutes he was far away, and I was too much disappointed + to follow him. All love of the chase seemed to be dying away before these + several mishaps. What were two antelopes for one day's sport to the + thousands that browsed over the plain? + </p> + <p> + The animals taken to camp during our three days' sport were two buffaloes, + two wild boar, three hartebeest, one zebra, and one pallah; besides which, + were shot eight guinea-fowls, three florican, two fish-eagles, one + pelican, and one of the men caught a couple of large silurus fish. In the + meantime the people had cut, sliced, and dried this bounteous store of + meat for our transit through the long wilderness before us. + </p> + <p> + Saturday the 7th day of October, we broke up camp, to the great regret of + the meat-loving, gormandizing Wangwana. They delegated Bombay early in the + morning to speak to me, and entreat of me to stop one day longer. It was + ever the case; they had always an unconquerable aversion to work, when in + presence of meat. Bombay was well scolded for bearing any such request to + me after two days' rest, during which time they had been filled to + repletion with meat. And Bombay was by no means in the best of humour; + flesh-pots full of meat were more to his taste than a constant tramping, + and its consequent fatigues. I saw his face settle into sulky ugliness, + and his great nether lip hanging down limp, which meant as if expressed in + so many words, "Well, get them to move yourself, you wicked hard man! I + shall not help you." + </p> + <p> + An ominous silence followed my order to the kirangozi to sound the horn, + and the usual singing and chanting were not heard. The men turned sullenly + to their bales, and Asmani, the gigantic guide, our fundi, was heard + grumblingly to say he was sorry he had engaged to guide me to the + Tanganika. However, they started, though reluctantly. I stayed behind with + my gunbearers, to drive the stragglers on. In about half an hour I sighted + the caravan at a dead stop, with the bales thrown on the ground, and the + men standing in groups conversing angrily and excitedly. + </p> + <p> + Taking my double-barrelled gun from Selim's shoulder, I selected a dozen + charges of buck-shot, and slipping two of them into the barrels, and + adjusting my revolvers in order for handy work, I walked on towards them. + I noticed that the men seized their guns, as I advanced. When within + thirty yards of the groups, I discovered the heads of two men appear above + an anthill on my left, with the barrels of their guns carelessly pointed + toward the road. + </p> + <p> + I halted, threw the barrel of my gun into the hollow of the left hand, and + then, taking a deliberate aim at them, threatened to blow their heads off + if they did not come forward to talk to me. These two men were, gigantic + Asmani and his sworn companion Mabruki, the guides of Sheikh bin Nasib. As + it was dangerous not to comply with such an order, they presently came, + but, keeping my eye on Asmani, I saw him move his fingers to the trigger + of his gun, and bring his gun to a "ready." Again I lifted my gun, and + threatened him with instant death, if he did not drop his gun. + </p> + <p> + Asmani came on in a sidelong way with a smirking smile on his face, but in + his eyes shone the lurid light of murder, as plainly as ever it shone in a + villain's eyes. Mabruki sneaked to my rear, deliberately putting powder in + the pan of his musket, but sweeping the gun sharply round, I planted the + muzzle of it at about two feet from his wicked-looking face, and ordered + him to drop his gun instantly. He let it fall from his hand quickly, and + giving him a vigorous poke in the breast with my gun, which sent him + reeling away a few feet from me, I faced round to Asmani, and ordered him + to put his gun down, accompanying it with a nervous movement of my gun, + pressing gently on the trigger at the same time. Never was a man nearer + his death than was Asmani during those few moments. I was reluctant to + shed his blood, and I was willing to try all possible means to avoid doing + so; but if I did not succeed in cowing this ruffian, authority was at an + end. The truth was, they feared to proceed further on the road, and the + only possible way of inducing them to move was by an overpowering force, + and exercise of my power and will in this instance, even though he might + pay the penalty of his disobedience with death. As I was beginning to feel + that Asmani had passed his last moment on earth, as he was lifting his gun + to his shoulder, a form came up from behind him, and swept his gun aside + with an impatient, nervous movement, and I heard Mabruki Burton say in + horror-struck accents: + </p> + <p> + "Man, how dare you point your gun, at the master?" Mabruki then threw + himself at my feet, and endeavoured to kiss them and entreated me not to + punish him. "It was all over now," he said; "there would be no more + quarreling, they would all go as far as the Tanganika, without any more + noise; and Inshallah!" said he, "we shall find the old Musungu * at + Ujiji." + </p> + <p> + *Livingstone + </p> + <p> + "Speak, men, freedmen, shall we not?—shall we not go to the + Tanganika without any more trouble? tell the master with one voice." + </p> + <p> + "Ay Wallah! Ay Wallah! Bana yango! Hamuna manneno mgini!" which literally + translated means, "Yes by God! Yes by God! my master! There are no other + words," said each man loudly. + </p> + <p> + "Ask the master's pardon, man, or go thy way," said Mabruki peremptorily, + to Asmani: which Asmani did, to the gratification of us all. + </p> + <p> + It remained for me only to extend a general pardon to all except to Bombay + and Ambari, the instigators of the mutiny, which was now happily quelled. + For Bombay could have by a word, as my captain, nipped all manifestation + of bad temper at the outset, had he been so disposed. But no, Bombay was + more averse to marching than the cowardliest of his fellows, not because + he was cowardly, but because he loved indolence. + </p> + <p> + Again the word was given to march, and each man, with astonishing + alacrity, seized his load, and filed off quickly out of sight. + </p> + <p> + While on this subject, I may as well give here a sketch of each of the + principal men whose names must often appear in the following chapters. + According to rank, they consist of Bombay, Mabruki Burton, Asmani the + guide, Chowpereh, Ulimengo, Khamisi, Ambari, Jumah, Ferajji the cook, + Maganga the Mnyamwezi, Selim the Arab boy, and youthful Kalulu a + gunbearer. + </p> + <p> + Bombay has received an excellent character from Burton and Speke. + "Incarnation of honesty" Burton grandly terms him. The truth is, Bombay + was neither very honest nor very dishonest, i.e., he did not venture to + steal much. He sometimes contrived cunningly, as he distributed the meat, + to hide a very large share for his own use. This peccadillo of his did not + disturb me much; he deserved as captain a larger share than the others. He + required to be closely watched, and when aware that this was the case, he + seldom ventured to appropriate more cloth than I would have freely given + him, had he asked for it. As a personal servant, or valet, he would have + been unexceptionable, but as a captain or jemadar over his fellows, he was + out of his proper sphere. It was too much brain-work, and was too + productive of anxiety to keep him in order. At times he was helplessly + imbecile in his movements, forgot every order the moment it was given him, + consistently broke or lost some valuable article, was fond of argument, + and addicted to bluster. He thinks Hajji Abdullah one of the wickedest + white men born, because he saw him pick up men's skulls and put them in + sacks, as if he was about to prepare a horrible medicine with them. He + wanted to know whether his former master had written down all he himself + did, and when told that Burton had not said anything, in his books upon + the Lake Regions, upon collecting skulls at Kilwa, thought I would be + doing a good work if I published this important fact. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + * Bombay intends to make a pilgrimage to visit Speke's grave + some day. + + ** I find upon returning to England, that Capt. Burton has + informed the world of this "wicked and abominable deed," in + his book upon Zanzibar, and that the interesting collection + may be seen at the Royal College of Surgeons, London. +</pre> + <p> + Mabruki, "Ras-bukra Mabruki," Bull-headed Mabruki, as Burton calls him, is + a sadly abused man in my opinion. Mabruki, though stupid, is faithful. He + is entirely out of his element as valet, he might as well be clerk. As a + watchman he is invaluable, as a second captain or fundi, whose duty it is + to bring up stragglers, he is superexcellent. He is ugly and vain, but he + is no coward. + </p> + <p> + Asmani the guide is a large fellow, standing over six feet, with the neck + and shoulders of a Hercules. Besides being guide, he is a fundi, sometimes + called Fundi Asmani, or hunter. A very superstitious man, who takes great + care of his gun, and talismanic plaited cord, which he has dipped in the + blood of all the animals he has ever shot. He is afraid of lions, and will + never venture out where lions are known to be. All other animals he + regards as game, and is indefatigable in their pursuit. He is seldom seen + without an apologetic or a treacherous smile on his face. He could draw a + knife across a man's throat and still smile. + </p> + <p> + Chowpereh is a sturdy short man of thirty or thereabouts; very + good-natured, and humorous. When Chowpereh speaks in his dry Mark Twain + style, the whole camp laughs. I never quarrel with Chowpereh, never did + quarrel with him. A kind word given to Chowpereh is sure to be + reciprocated with a good deed. He is the strongest, the healthiest, the + amiablest, the faithfulest of all. He is the embodiment of a good + follower. + </p> + <p> + Khamisi is a neat, cleanly boy of twenty, or thereabouts, active, + loud-voiced, a boaster, and the cowardliest of the cowardly. He will steal + at every opportunity. He clings to his gun most affectionately; is always + excessively anxious if a screw gets loose, or if a flint will not strike + fire, yet I doubt that he would be able to fire his gun at an enemy from + excessive trembling. Khamisi would rather trust his safety to his feet, + which are small, and well shaped. + </p> + <p> + Ambari is a man of about forty. He is one of the "Faithfuls" of Speke, and + one of my Faithfuls. He would not run away from me except when in the + presence of an enemy, and imminent personal danger. He is clever in his + way, but is not sufficiently clever to enact the part of captain—could + take charge of a small party, and give a very good account of them. Is + lazy, and an admirer of good living—abhors marching, unless he has + nothing to carry but his gun. + </p> + <p> + Jumah is the best abused man of the party, because he has old-womanish + ways with him, yet in his old-womanish ways he is disposed to do the best + he can for me, though he will not carry a pound in weight without groaning + terribly at his hard fate. To me he is sentimental and pathetic; to the + unimportant members of the caravan he is stern and uncompromising. But the + truth is, that I could well dispense with Jumah's presence: he was one of + the incorrigible inutiles, eating far more than he was worth; besides + being an excessively grumbling and querulous fool. + </p> + <p> + Ulimengo, a strong stalwart fellow of thirty, was the maddest and most + hare-brained of my party. Though an arrant coward, he was a consummate + boaster. But though a devotee of pleasure and fun, he was not averse from + work. With one hundred men such as he, I could travel through Africa + provided there was no fighting to do. It will be remembered that he was + the martial coryphaeus who led my little army to war against Mirambo, + chanting the battle-song of the Wangwana; and that I stated, that when the + retreat was determined upon, he was the first of my party to reach the + stronghold of Mfuto. He is a swift runner, and a fair hunter. I have been + indebted to him on several occasions for a welcome addition to my larder. + </p> + <p> + Ferajji, a former dish-washer to Speke, was my cook. He was promoted to + this office upon the defection of Bunder Salaam, and the extreme + non-fitness of Abdul Kader. For cleaning dishes, the first corn-cob, green + twig, a bunch of leaves or grass, answered Ferajji's purposes in the + absence of a cloth. If I ordered a plate, and I pointed out a black, + greasy, sooty thumbmark to him, a rub of a finger Ferajji thought + sufficient to remove all objections. If I hinted that a spoon was rather + dirty, Ferajji fancied that with a little saliva, and a rub of his loin + cloth, the most fastidious ought to be satisfied. Every pound of meat, and + every three spoonfuls of musk or porridge I ate in Africa, contained at + least ten grains of sand. Ferajji was considerably exercised at a threat I + made to him that on arrival at Zanzibar, I would get the great English + doctor there to open my stomach, and count every grain of sand found in + it, for each grain of which Ferajji should be charged one dollar. The + consciousness that my stomach must contain a large number, for which the + forfeits would be heavy, made him feel very sad at times. Otherwise, + Ferajji was a good cook, most industrious, if not accomplished. He could + produce a cup of tea, and three or four hot pancakes, within ten minutes + after a halt was ordered, for which I was most grateful, as I was almost + always hungry after a long march. Ferajji sided with Baraka against Bombay + in Unyoro, and when Speke took Bombay's side of the question, Ferajji, out + of love for Baraka, left Speke's service, and so forfeited his pay. + </p> + <p> + Maganga was a Mnyamwezi, a native of Mkwenkwe, a strong, faithful servant, + an excellent pagazi, with an irreproachable temper. He it was who at all + times, on the march, started the wildly exuberant song of the Wanyamwezi + porters, which, no matter how hot the sun, or how long the march, was sure + to produce gaiety and animation among the people. At such times all hands + sang, sang with voices that could be heard miles away, which made the + great forests ring with the sounds, which startled every animal big or + little, for miles around. On approaching a village the temper of whose + people might be hostile to us, Maganga would commence his song, with the + entire party joining in the chorus, by which mode we knew whether the + natives were disposed to be friendly or hostile. If hostile, or timid, the + gates would at once be closed, and dark faces would scowl at us from the + interior; if friendly, they rushed outside of their gates to welcome us, + or to exchange friendly remarks. + </p> + <p> + An important member of the Expedition was Selim, the young Arab. Without + some one who spoke good Arabic, I could not have obtained the friendship + of the chief Arabs in Unyanyembe; neither could I have well communicated + with them, for though I understood Arabic, I could not speak it. + </p> + <p> + I have already related how Kalulu came to be in my service, and how he + came to bear his present name. I soon found how apt and quick he was to + learn, in consequence of which, he was promoted to the rank of personal + attendant. Even Selim could not vie with Kalulu in promptness and + celerity, or in guessing my wants at the table. His little black eyes were + constantly roving over the dishes, studying out the problem of what was + further necessary, or had become unnecessary. + </p> + <p> + We arrived at the Ziwani, in about 4 h. 30 m. from the time of our + quitting the scene which had well-nigh witnessed a sanguinary conflict. + The Ziwani, or pool, contained no water, not a drop, until the parched + tongues of my people warned them that they must proceed and excavate for + water. This excavation was performed (by means of strong hard sticks + sharply pointed) in the dry hard-caked bottom. After digging to a depth of + six feet their labours were rewarded with the sight of a few drops of + muddy liquid percolating through the sides, which were eagerly swallowed + to relieve their raging thirst. Some voluntarily started with buckets, + gourds, and canteens south to a deserted clearing called the "Tongoni" in + Ukamba, and in about three hours returned with a plentiful supply for + immediate use, of good and clear water. + </p> + <p> + In 1 h. 30 m. we arrived at this Tongoni, or deserted clearing of the + Wakamba. Here were three or four villages burnt, and an extensive clearing + desolate, the work of the Wa-Ruga-Raga of Mirambo. Those of the + inhabitants who were left, after the spoliation and complete destruction + of the flourishing settlement, emigrated westerly to Ugara. A large herd + of buffalo now slake their thirst at the pool which supplied the villages + of Ukamba with water. + </p> + <p> + Great masses of iron haematite cropped up above the surfaces in these + forests. Wild fruit began to be abundant; the wood-apple and tamarind and + a small plum-like fruit, furnished us with many an agreeable repast. + </p> + <p> + The honey-bird is very frequent in these forests of Ukonongo. Its cry is a + loud, quick chirrup. The Wakonongo understand how to avail themselves of + its guidance to the sweet treasure of honey which the wild bees have + stored in the cleft of some great tree. Daily, the Wakonongo who had + joined our caravan brought me immense cakes of honey-comb, containing + delicious white and red honey. The red honey-comb generally contains large + numbers of dead bees, but our exceedingly gluttonous people thought little + of these. They not only ate the honey-bees, but they also ate a good deal + of the wax. + </p> + <p> + As soon as the honey-bird descries the traveller, he immediately utters a + series of wild, excited cries, hops about from twig to twig, and from + branch to branch, then hops to another tree, incessantly repeating his + chirruping call. The native, understanding the nature of the little bird, + unhesitatingly follows him; but perhaps his steps are too slow for the + impatient caller, upon which he flies back, urging him louder, more + impatient cries, to hasten, and then darts swiftly forward, as if he would + show how quickly he could go to the honey-store, until at last the + treasure is reached, the native has applied fire to the bees' nest, and + secured the honey, while the little bird preens himself, and chirrups in + triumphant notes, as if he were informing the biped that without his aid + he never could have found the honey. + </p> + <p> + Buffalo gnats and tsetse were very troublesome on this march, owing to the + numerous herds of game in the vicinity. + </p> + <p> + On the 9th of October we made a long march in a southerly direction, and + formed our camp in the centre of a splendid grove of trees. The water was + very scarce on the road. The Wamrima and Wanyamwezi are not long able to + withstand thirst. When water is plentiful they slake their thirst at every + stream and pool; when it is scarce, as it is here and in the deserts of + Marenga and Magunda Mkali, long afternoon-marches are made; the men + previously, however, filling their gourds, so as to enable them to reach + the water early next morning. Selim was never able to endure thirst. It + mattered not how much of the precious liquid he carried, he generally + drank it all before reaching camp, and he consequently suffered during the + night. Besides this, he endangered his life by quaffing from every muddy + pool; and on this day he began to complain that he discharged blood, which + I took to be an incipient stage of dysentery. + </p> + <p> + During these marches, ever since quitting Ugunda, a favourite topic at the + camp-fires were the Wa-Ruga-Ruga, and their atrocities, and a possible + encounter that we might have with these bold rovers of the forest. I + verily believe that a sudden onset of half a dozen of Mirambo's people + would have set the whole caravan arunning. + </p> + <p> + We reached Marefu the next day, after a short three hours' march. We there + found an embassy sent by the Arabs of Unyanyembe, to the Southern Watuta, + bearing presents of several bales, in charge of Hassan the Mseguhha. This + valiant leader and diplomatist had halted here some ten days because of + wars and rumours of wars in his front. It was said that Mbogo, Sultan of + Mboga in Ukonongo, was at war with the brother of Manwa Sera, and as Mbogo + was a large district of Ukonongo only two days' march from Marefu; fear of + being involved in it was deterring old Hassan from proceeding. He advised + me also not to proceed, as it was impossible to be able to do so without + being embroiled in the conflict. I informed him that I intended to proceed + on my way, and take my chances, and graciously offered him my escort as + far as the frontier of Ufipa, from which he could easily and safely + continue on his way to the Watuta, but he declined it. + </p> + <p> + We had now been travelling fourteen days in a south-westerly direction, + having made a little more than one degree of latitude. I had intended to + have gone a little further south, because it was such a good road, also + since by going further south we should have labored under no fear of + meeting Mirambo; but the report of this war in our front, only two days + off, compelled me, in the interest of the Expedition, to strike across + towards the Tanganika, an a west-by-north course through the forest, + travelling, when it was advantageous, along elephant tracks and local + paths. This new plan was adopted after consulting with Asmani, the guide. + We were now in Ukonongo, having entered this district when we crossed the + Gombe creek. The next day after arriving at Marefu we plunged westward, in + view of the villagers, and the Arab ambassador, who kept repeating until + the last moment that we should "certainly catch it." + </p> + <p> + We marched eight hours through a forest, where the forest peach, or the + "mbembu," is abundant. The tree that bears this fruit is very like a + pear-tree, and is very productive. I saw one tree, upon which I estimated + there were at least six or seven bushels. I ate numbers of the peaches on + this day. So long as this fruit can be produced, a traveller in these + regions need not fear starvation. + </p> + <p> + At the base of a graceful hilly cone we found a village called Utende, the + inhabitants of which were in a state of great alarm, as we suddenly + appeared on the ridge above them. Diplomacy urged me to send forward a + present of one doti to the Sultan, who, however, would not accept it, + because he happened to be drunk with pombe, and was therefore disposed to + be insolent. Upon being informed that he would refuse any present, unless + he received four more cloths, I immediately ordered a strong boma to be + constructed on the summits of a little hill, near enough to a plentiful + supply of water, and quietly again packed up the present in the bale. I + occupied a strategically chosen position, as I could have swept the face + of the hill, and the entire space between its base and the village of + Watende. Watchmen were kept on the look-out all night; but we were + fortunately not troubled until the morning; when a delegation of the + principal men came to ask if I intended to depart without having made a + present to the chief. I replied to them that I did not intend passing + through any country without making friends with the chief; and if their + chief would accept a good cloth from me, I would freely give it to him. + Though they demurred at the amount of the present at first, the difference + between us was finally ended by my adding a fundo of red beads—sami-sami—for + the chief's wife. + </p> + <p> + From the hill and ridge of Utende sloped a forest for miles and miles + westerly, which was terminated by a grand and smooth-topped ridge rising + 500 or 600 feet above the plain. + </p> + <p> + A four hours' march, on the 12th of October, brought us to a nullah + similar to the Gombe, which, during the wet season, flows to the Gombe + River, and thence into the Malagarazi River. + </p> + <p> + A little before camping we saw a herd of nimba, or pallah; I had the good + fortune to shoot one, which was a welcome addition to our fast diminishing + store of dried meats, prepared in our camp on the Gombe. By the quantity + of bois de vaches, we judged buffaloes were plentiful here, as well as + elephant and rhinoceros. The feathered species were well represented by + ibis, fish-eagles, pelicans, storks, cranes, several snowy spoon-bills, + and flamingoes. + </p> + <p> + From the nullah, or mtoni, we proceeded to Mwaru, the principal village of + the district of Mwaru, the chief of which is Ka-mirambo. Our march lay + over desolated clearings once occupied by Ka-mirambo's people, but who + were driven away by Mkasiwa some ten years ago, during his warfare against + Manwa Sera. Niongo, the brother of the latter, now waging war against + Mbogo, had passed through Mwaru the day before we arrived, after being + defeated by his enemy. + </p> + <p> + The hilly ridge that bounded the westward horizon, visible from Utende, + was surmounted on this day. The western slope trends south-west, and is + drained by the River Mrera, which empties into the Malagarazi River. We + perceived the influence of the Tanganika, even here, though we were yet + twelve or fifteen marches from the lake. The jungles increased in density, + and the grasses became enormously tall; these points reminded us of the + maritime districts of Ukwere and Ukami. + </p> + <p> + We heard from a caravan at this place, just come from Ufipa, that a white + man was reported to be in "Urua," whom I supposed to mean Livingstone. + </p> + <p> + Upon leaving Mwaru we entered the district of Mrera, a chief who once + possessed great power and influence over this region. Wars, however, have + limited his possessions to three or four villages snugly embosomed within + a jungle, whose outer rim is so dense that it serves like a stone wall to + repel invaders. There were nine bleached skulls, stuck on the top of as + many poles, before the principal gate of entrance, which told us of + existing feuds between the Wakonongo and the Wazavira. This latter tribe + dwelt in a country a few marches west of us; whose territory we should + have to avoid, unless we sought another opportunity to distinguish + ourselves in battle with the natives. The Wazavira, we were told by the + Wakonongo of Mrera, were enemies to all Wangwana. + </p> + <p> + In a narrow strip of marsh between Mwaru and Mrera, we saw a small herd of + wild elephants. It was the first time I had ever seen these animals in + their native wildness, and my first impressions of them I shall not + readily forget. I am induced to think that the elephant deserves the title + of "king of beasts." His huge form, the lordly way in which he stares at + an intruder on his domain, and his whole appearance indicative of + conscious might, afford good grounds for his claim to that title. This + herd, as we passed it at the distance of a mile, stopped to survey the + caravan as it passed: and, after having satisfied their curiosity, the + elephants trooped into the forest which bounded the marshy plain + southward, as if caravans were every-day things to them, whilst they—the + free and unconquerable lords of the forest and the marsh—had nothing + in common with the cowardly bipeds, who never found courage to face them + in fair combat. The destruction which a herd makes in a forest is simply + tremendous. When the trees are young whole swathes may be found uprooted + and prostrate, which mark the track of the elephants as they "trampled + their path through wood and brake." + </p> + <p> + The boy Selim was so ill at this place that I was compelled to halt the + caravan for him for two days. He seemed to be affected with a disease in + the limbs, which caused him to sprawl, and tremble most painfully, besides + suffering from an attack of acute dysentery. But constant attendance and + care soon brought him round again; and on the third day he was able to + endure the fatigue of riding. + </p> + <p> + I was able to shoot several animals during our stay at Mrera. The forest + outside of the cultivation teems with noble animals. Zebra, giraffe, + elephant, and rhinoceros are most common; ptarmigan and guinea-fowl were + also plentiful. + </p> + <p> + The warriors of Mrera are almost all armed with muskets, of which they + take great care. They were very importunate in their demands for flints, + bullets, and powder, which I always made it a point to refuse, lest at any + moment a fracas occurring they might use the ammunition thus supplied to + my own disadvantage. The men of this village were an idle set, doing + little but hunting, gaping, gossiping, and playing like great boys. During + the interval of my stay at Mrera I employed a large portion of my time in + mending my shoes, and patching up the great rents in my clothes, which the + thorn species, during the late marches, had almost destroyed. Westward, + beyond Mrera, was a wilderness, the transit of which we were warned would + occupy nine days hence arose the necessity to purchase a large supply of + grain, which, ere attempting the great uninhabited void in our front, was + to be ground and sifted. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0011" id="link2HCH0011"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XI. — THROUGH UKAWENDI, UVINZA, AND UHHA, TO UJIJI. + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Happy auspices,—Ant-hills.—The water-shed of the Tanganika + Lion.—The king of Kasera.—The home of the lion and the + leopard.—A donkey frightens a leopard—Sublime scenes in + Kawendi,—Starvation imminent.—Amenities of travel in + Africa.—Black-mailers.—The stormy children of Uhha.—News + of a white man.—Energetic marches—Mionvu, chief of + tribute-takers.—An escape at midnight.—Toiling through the + jungles.—The Lake Mountains.—First view of the Tanganika.— + Arrival at Ujiji,—The happy meeting with Livingstone. +</pre> + <p> + We bade farewell to Mrera on the 17th of October, to continue our route + north-westward. All the men and I were firm friends now; all squabbling + had long ceased. Bombay and I had forgotten our quarrel; the kirangozi and + myself were ready to embrace, so loving and affectionate were the terms + upon which we stood towards one another. Confidence returned to all hearts—for + now, as Mabruk Unyanyembe said, "we could smell the fish of the + Tanganika." Unyanyembe, with all its disquietude, was far behind. We could + snap our fingers at that terrible Mirambo and his unscrupulous followers, + and by-and-by, perhaps, we may be able to laugh at the timid seer who + always prophesied portentous events—Sheikh, the son of Nasib. We + laughed joyously, as we glided in Indian file through the young forest + jungle beyond the clearing of Mrera, and boasted of our prowess. Oh! we + were truly brave that morning! + </p> + <p> + Emerging from the jungle, we entered a thin forest, where numerous + ant-hills were seen like so many sand-dunes. I imagine that these + ant-hills were formed during a remarkably wet season, when, possibly, the + forest-clad plain was inundated. I have seen the ants at work by + thousands, engaged in the work of erecting their hills in other districts + suffering from inundation. What a wonderful system of cells these tiny + insects construct! A perfect labyrinth—cell within cell, room within + room, hall within hall—an exhibition of engineering talents and high + architectural capacity—a model city, cunningly contrived for safety + and comfort! + </p> + <p> + Emerging after a short hour's march out of the forest, we welcome the + sight of a murmuring translucent stream, swiftly flowing towards the + north-west, which we regard with the pleasure which only men who have for + a long time sickened themselves with that potable liquid of the foulest + kind, found in salinas, mbugas, pools, and puddle holes, can realize. + Beyond this stream rises a rugged and steep ridge, from the summit of + which our eyes are gladdened with scenes that are romantic, animated and + picturesque. They form an unusual feast to eyes sated with looking into + the depths of forests, at towering stems of trees, and at tufted crowns of + foliage. We have now before us scores of cones, dotting the surface of a + plain which extends across Southern Ukonongo to the territory of the + Wafipa, and which reaches as far as the Rikwa Plain. The immense prospect + before which we are suddenly ushered is most varied; exclusive of conical + hills and ambitious flat-topped and isolated mountains, we are in view of + the watersheds of the Rungwa River, which empties into the Tanganika south + of where we stand, and of the Malagarazi River, which the Tanganika + receives, a degree or so north of this position. A single but lengthy + latitudinal ridge serves as a dividing line to the watershed of the Rungwa + and Malagarazi; and a score of miles or so further west of this ridge + rises another, which runs north and south. + </p> + <p> + We camped on this day in the jungle, close to a narrow ravine with a + marshy bottom, through the oozy, miry contents of which the waters from + the watershed of the Rungwa slowly trickled southward towards the Rikwa + Plain. This was only one of many ravines, however, some of which were + several hundred yards broad, others were but a few yards in width, the + bottoms of which were most dangerous quagmires, overgrown with dense tall + reeds and papyrus. Over the surface of these great depths of mud were seen + hundreds of thin threads of slimy ochre-coloured water, which swarmed with + animalculae. By-and-by, a few miles south of the base of this ridge (which + I call Kasera, from the country which it cuts in halves), these several + ravines converge and debouch into the broad, [marshy?], oozy, spongy + "river" of Usense, which trends in a south-easterly direction; after + which, gathering the contents of the watercourses from the north and + northeast into its own broader channel, it soon becomes a stream of some + breadth and consequence, and meets a river flowing from the east, from the + direction of Urori, with which it conflows in the Rikwa Plain, and empties + about sixty rectilineal miles further west into the Tanganika Lake. The + Rungwa River, I am informed, is considered as a boundary line between the + country of Usowa on the north, and Ufipa on the south. + </p> + <p> + We had barely completed the construction of our camp defences when some of + the men were heard challenging a small party of natives which advanced + towards our camp, headed by a man who, from his garb and head-dress, we + knew was from Zanzibar. After interchanging the customary salutations, I + was informed that this party was an embassy from Simba ("Lion"), who ruled + over Kasera, in Southern Unyamwezi. Simba, I was told, was the son of + Mkasiwa, King of Unyanyembe, and was carrying on war with the Wazavira, of + whom I was warned to beware. He had heard such reports of my greatness + that he was sorry I did not take his road to Ukawendi, that he might have + had the opportunity of seeing me, and making friends with me; but in the + absence of a personal visit Simba had sent this embassy to overtake me, in + the hope that I would present him with a token of my friendship in the + shape of cloth. Though I was rather taken aback by the demand, still it + was politic in me to make this powerful chief my friend, lest on my return + from the search after Livingstone he and I might fall out. And since it + was incumbent on me to make a present, for the sake of peace, it was + necessary to exhibit my desire for peace by giving—if I gave at all—a + royal present. The ambassador conveyed from me to Simba, or the "Lion" of + Kasera, two gorgeous cloths, and two other doti consisting of Merikani and + Kaniki; and, if I might believe the ambassador, I had made Simba a friend + for ever. + </p> + <p> + On the 18th of October, breaking camp at the usual hour, we continued our + march north-westward by a road which zig-zagged along the base of the + Kasera mountains, and which took us into all kinds of difficulties. We + traversed at least a dozen marshy ravines, the depth of mire and water in + which caused the utmost anxiety. I sunk up to my neck in deep holes in the + Stygian ooze caused by elephants, and had to tramp through the oozy beds + of the Rungwa sources with any clothes wet and black with mud and slime. + Decency forbade that I should strip; and the hot sun would also blister my + body. Moreover, these morasses were too frequent to lose time in + undressing and dressing, and, as each man was weighted with his own proper + load, it would have been cruel to compel the men to bear me across. + Nothing remained, therefore, but to march on, all encumbered as I was with + my clothing and accoutrements, into these several marshy watercourses, + with all the philosophical stoicism that my nature could muster for such + emergencies. But it was very uncomfortable, to say the least of it. + </p> + <p> + We soon entered the territory of the dreaded Wazavira, but no enemy was in + sight. Simba, in his wars, had made clean work of the northern part of + Uzavira, and we encountered nothing worse than a view of the desolated + country, which must have been once—judging from the number of burnt + huts and debris of ruined villages—extremely populous. A young + jungle was sprouting up vigorously in their fields, and was rapidly + becoming the home of wild denizens of the forest. In one of the deserted + and ruined villages, I found quarters for the Expedition, which were by no + means uncomfortable. I shot three brace of guinea-fowl in the + neighbourhood of Misonghi, the deserted village we occupied, and Ulimengo, + one of my hunters, bagged an antelope, called the "mbawala," for whose + meat some of the Wanyamwezi have a superstitious aversion. I take this + species of antelope, which stands about three and a half feet high, of a + reddish hide, head long, horns short, to be the "Nzoe" antelope discovered + by Speke in Uganda, and whose Latin designation is, according to Dr. + Sclater, "Tragelaphus Spekii." It has a short bushy tail, and long hair + along the spine. + </p> + <p> + A long march in a west-by-north direction, lasting six hours, through a + forest where the sable antelope was seen, and which was otherwise prolific + with game, brought us to a stream which ran by the base of a lofty conical + hill, on whose slopes flourished quite a forest of feathery bamboo. + </p> + <p> + On the 20th, leaving our camp, which lay between the stream and the + conical hill above mentioned, and surmounting a low ridge which sloped + from the base of the hill-cone, we were greeted with another picturesque + view, of cones and scarped mountains, which heaved upward in all + directions. A march of nearly five hours through this picturesque country + brought us to the Mpokwa River, one of the tributaries of the Rungwa, and + to a village lately deserted by the Wazavira. The huts were almost all + intact, precisely as they were left by their former inhabitants. In the + gardens were yet found vegetables, which, after living so long on meat, + were most grateful to us. On the branches of trees still rested the Lares + and Penates of the Wazavira, in the shape of large and exceedingly + well-made earthen pots. + </p> + <p> + In the neighbouring river one of my men succeeded, in few minutes, in + catching sixty fish of the silurus species the hand alone. A number of + birds hovered about stream, such as the white-headed fish-eagle and the + kingfisher, enormous, snowy spoonbills, ibis, martins, &c. This river + issued from a mountain clump eight miles or so north of the village of + Mpokwa, and comes flowing down a narrow thread of water, sinuously winding + amongst tall reeds and dense brakes on either side-the home of hundreds of + antelopes and buffaloes. South of Mpokwa, the valley broadens, and the + mountains deflect eastward and westward, and beyond this point commences + the plain known as the Rikwa, which, during the Masika is inundated, but + which, in the dry season, presents the same bleached aspect that plains in + Africa generally do when the grass has ripened. + </p> + <p> + Travelling up along the right bank of the Mpokwa, on the 21st we came to + the head of the stream, and the sources of the Mpokwa, issuing out of deep + defiles enclosed by lofty ranges. The mbawala and the buffalo were + plentiful. + </p> + <p> + On the 22nd, after a march of four hours and a half, we came to the + beautiful stream of Mtambu—the water of which was sweet, and clear + as crystal, and flowed northward. We saw for the first time the home of + the lion and the leopard. Hear what Freiligrath says of the place: + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Where the thorny brake and thicket + Densely fill the interspace + Of the trees, through whose thick branches + Never sunshine lights the place, + There the lion dwells, a monarch, + Mightiest among the brutes; + There his right to reign supremest + Never one his claim disputes. + There he layeth down to slumber, + Having slain and ta'en his fill; + There he roameth, there be croucheth, + As it suits his lordly will. +</pre> + <p> + We camped but a few yards from just such a place as the poet describes. + The herd-keeper who attended the goats and donkeys, soon after our arrival + in camp, drove the animals to water, and in order to obtain it they + travelled through a tunnel in the brake, caused by elephants and + rhinoceros. They had barely entered the dark cavernous passage, when a + black-spotted leopard sprang, and fastened its fangs in the neck of one of + the donkeys, causing it, from the pain, to bray hideously. Its companions + set up such a frightful chorus, and so lashed their heels in the air at + the feline marauder, that the leopard bounded away through the brake, as + if in sheer dismay at the noisy cries which the attack had provoked. The + donkey's neck exhibited some frightful wounds, but the animal was not + dangerously hurt. + </p> + <p> + Thinking that possibly I might meet with an adventure with a lion or a + leopard in that dark belt of tall trees, under whose impenetrable shade + grew the dense thicket that formed such admirable coverts for the + carnivorous species, I took a stroll along the awesome place with the + gunbearer, Kalulu, carrying an extra gun, and a further supply of + ammunition. We crept cautiously along, looking keenly into the deep dark + dens, the entrances of which were revealed to us, as we journeyed, + expectant every moment to behold the reputed monarch of the brake and + thicket, bound forward to meet us, and I took a special delight in + picturing, in my imagination, the splendor and majesty of the wrathful + brute, as he might stand before me. I peered closely into every dark + opening, hoping to see the deadly glitter of the great angry eyes, and the + glowering menacing front of the lion as he would regard me. But, alas! + after an hour's search for adventure, I had encountered nothing, and I + accordingly waxed courageous, and crept into one of these leafy, thorny + caverns, and found myself shortly standing under a canopy of foliage that + was held above my head fully a hundred feet by the shapely and towering + stems of the royal mvule. Who can imagine the position? A smooth lawn-like + glade; a dense and awful growth of impenetrable jungle around us; those + stately natural pillars—a glorious phalanx of royal trees, bearing + at such sublime heights vivid green masses of foliage, through which no + single sun-ray penetrated, while at our feet babbled the primeval brook, + over smooth pebbles, in soft tones befitting the sacred quiet of the + scene! Who could have desecrated this solemn, holy harmony of nature? But + just as I was thinking it impossible that any man could be tempted to + disturb the serene solitude of the place, I saw a monkey perched high on a + branch over my head, contemplating, with something of an awe-struck look, + the strange intruders beneath. Well, I could not help it, I laughed—laughed + loud and long, until I was hushed by the chaos of cries and strange noises + which seemed to respond to my laughing. A troop of monkeys, hidden in the + leafy depths above, had been rudely awakened, and, startled by the noise I + made, were hurrying away from the scene with a dreadful clamor of cries + and shrieks. + </p> + <p> + Emerging again into the broad sunlight, I strolled further in search of + something to shoot. Presently, I saw, feeding quietly in the forest which + bounded the valley of the Mtambu on the left, a huge, reddish-coloured + wild boar, armed with most horrid tusks. Leaving Kalulu crouched down + behind a tree, and my solar helmet behind another close by—that I + might more safely stalk the animal—I advanced towards him some forty + yards, and after taking a deliberate aim, fired at his fore shoulder. As + if nothing had hurt him whatever, the animal made a furious bound, and + then stood with his bristles erected, and tufted tail, curved over the + back—a most formidable brute in appearance. While he was thus + listening, and searching the neighbourhood with his keen, small eyes, I + planted another shot in his chest, which ploughed its way through his + body. Instead of falling, however, as I expected he would, he charged + furiously in the direction the bullet had come, and as he rushed past me, + another ball was fired, which went right through him; but still he kept + on, until, within six or seven yards from the trees behind which Kalulu + was crouching down on one side, and the helmet was resting behind another, + he suddenly halted, and then dropped. But as I was about to advance on him + with my knife to cut his throat, he suddenly started up; his eyes had + caught sight of the little boy Kalulu, and were then, almost immediately + afterwards, attracted by the sight of the snowy helmet. These strange + objects on either side of him proved too much for the boar, for, with a + terrific grunt, he darted on one side into a thick brake, from which it + was impossible to oust him, and as it was now getting late, and the camp + was about three miles away, I was reluctantly obliged to return without + the meat. + </p> + <p> + On our way to camp we were accompanied by a large animal which + persistently followed us on our left. It was too dark to see plainly, but + a large form was visible, if not very clearly defined. It must have been a + lion, unless it was the ghost of the dead boar. + </p> + <p> + That night, about 11 P.M., we were startled by the roar of a lion, in + close proximity to the camp. Soon it was joined by another, and another + still, and the novelty of the thing kept me awake. I peered through the + gate of the camp, and endeavoured to sight a rifle—my little + Winchester, in the accuracy of which I had perfect confidence; but, alas! + for the cartridges, they might have been as well filled with sawdust for + all the benefit I derived from them. Disgusted with the miserable + ammunition, I left the lions alone, and turned in, with their roaring as a + lullaby. + </p> + <p> + That terrestrial paradise for the hunter, the valley of the pellucid + Mtambu, was deserted by us the next morning for the settlement commonly + known to the Wakawendi as Imrera's, with as much unconcern as though it + were a howling desert. The village near which we encamped was called + Itaga, in the district of Rusawa. As soon as we had crossed the River + Mtambu we had entered Ukawendi, commonly called "Kawendi" by the natives + of the country. + </p> + <p> + The district of Rusawa is thickly populated. The people are quiet and + well-disposed to strangers, though few ever come to this region from afar. + One or two Wasawahili traders visit it every year or so from Pumburu and + Usowa; but very little ivory being obtained from the people, the long + distance between the settlements serves to deter the regular trader from + venturing hither. + </p> + <p> + If caravans arrive here, the objective point to them is the district of + Pumburu, situated south-westerly one day's good marching, or, say, thirty + statute miles from Imrera; or they make for Usowa, on the Tanganika, via + Pumburu, Katuma, Uyombeh, and Ugarawah. Usowa is quite an important + district on the Tanganika, populous and flourishing. This was the road we + had intended to adopt after leaving Imrera, but the reports received at + the latter place forbade such a venture. For Mapunda, the Sultan of Usowa, + though a great friend to Arab traders, was at war with the colony of the + Wazavira, who we must remember were driven from Mpokwa and vicinity in + Utanda, and who were said to have settled between Pumburu and Usowa. + </p> + <p> + It remained for us, like wise, prudent men, having charge of a large and + valuable Expedition on our hands, to decide what to do, and what route to + adopt, now that we had approached much nearer to Ujiji than we were to + Unyanyembe. I suggested that we should make direct for the Tanganika by + compass, trusting to no road or guide, but to march direct west until we + came to the Tanganika, and then follow the lake shore on foot until we + came to Ujiji. For it ever haunted my mind, that, if Dr. Livingstone + should hear of my coming, which he might possibly do if I travelled along + any known road, he would leave, and that my search for him would + consequently be a "stern chase." But my principal men thought it better + that we should now boldly turn our faces north, and march for the + Malagarazi, which was said to be a large river flowing from the east to + the Tanganika. But none of my men knew the road to the Malagarazi, neither + could guides be hired from Sultan Imrera. We were, however, informed that + the Malagarazi was but two days' march from Imrera. I thought it safe, in + such a case, to provision my men with three days' rations. The village of + Itaga is situated in a deep mountain hollow, finely overlooking a large + extent of cultivation. The people grow sweet potatoes, manioc—out of + which tapioca is made—beans, and the holcus. Not one chicken could + be purchased for love or money, and, besides grain, only a lean, scraggy + specimen of a goat, a long time ago imported form Uvinza, was procurable. + </p> + <p> + October the 25th will be remembered by me as a day of great troubles; in + fact, a series of troubles began from this date. We struck an easterly + road in order to obtain a passage to the lofty plateau which bounded the + valley of Imrera on the west and on the north. We camped, after a two and + a half hours' march, at its foot. The defile promised a feasible means of + ascent to the summit of the plateau, which rose upward in a series of + scarps a thousand feet above the valley of Imrera. + </p> + <p> + While ascending that lofty arc of mountains which bounded westerly and + northerly the basin of Imrera, extensive prospects southward and eastward + were revealed. The character of the scenery at Ukawendi is always animated + and picturesque, but never sublime. The folds of this ridge contained + several ruins of bomas, which seemed to have been erected during war time. + </p> + <p> + The mbemba fruit was plentiful along this march, and every few minutes I + could see from the rear one or two men hastening to secure a treasure of + it which they discovered on the ground. + </p> + <p> + A little before reaching the camp I had a shot at a leopard, but failed to + bring him down as he bounded away. At night the lions roared as at the + Mtambu River. + </p> + <p> + A lengthy march under the deep twilight shadows of a great forest, which + protected us from the hot sunbeams, brought us, on the next day, to a camp + newly constructed by a party of Arabs from Ujiji, who had advanced thus + far on their road to Unyanyembe, but, alarmed at the reports of the war + between Mirambo and the Arabs, had returned. Our route was along the right + bank of the Rugufu, a broad sluggish stream, well choked with the matete + reeds and the papyrus. The tracks and the bois de vaches of buffaloes were + numerous, and there were several indications of rhinoceros being near. In + a deep clump of timber near this river we discovered a colony of bearded + and leonine-looking monkeys. + </p> + <p> + As we were about leaving our camp on the morning of the 28th a herd of + buffalo walked deliberately into view. Silence was quickly restored, but + not before the animals, to their great surprise, had discovered the danger + which confronted them. We commenced stalking them, but we soon heard the + thundering sound of their gallop, after which it becomes a useless task to + follow them, with a long march in a wilderness before one. + </p> + <p> + The road led on this day over immense sheets of sandstone and iron ore. + The water was abominable, and scarce, and famine began to stare us in the + face. We travelled for six hours, and had yet seen no sign of cultivation + anywhere. According to my map we were yet two long marches from the + Malagarazi—if Captain Burton had correctly laid down the position of + the river; according to the natives' account, we should have arrived at + the Malagarazi on this day. + </p> + <p> + On the 29th we left our camp, and after a few minutes, we were in view of + the sublimest, but ruggedest, scenes we had yet beheld in Africa. The + country was cut up in all directions by deep, wild, and narrow ravines + trending in all directions, but generally toward the north-west, while on + either side rose enormous square masses of naked rock (sandstone), + sometimes towering, and rounded, sometimes pyramidal, sometimes in + truncated cones, sometimes in circular ridges, with sharp, rugged, naked + backs, with but little vegetation anywhere visible, except it obtained a + precarious tenure in the fissured crown of some gigantic hill-top, whither + some soil had fallen, or at the base of the reddish ochre scarps which + everywhere lifted their fronts to our view. + </p> + <p> + A long series of descents down rocky gullies, wherein we were environed by + threatening masses of disintegrated rock, brought us to a dry, stony + ravine, with mountain heights looming above us a thousand feet high. This + ravine we followed, winding around in all directions, but which gradually + widened, however, into a broad plain, with a western trend. The road, + leaving this, struck across a low ridge to the north; and we were in view + of deserted settlements where the villages were built on frowning + castellated masses of rock. Near an upright mass of rock over seventy feet + high, and about fifty yards in diameter, which dwarfed the gigantic + sycamore close to it, we made our camp, after five hours and thirty + minutes' continuous and rapid marching. + </p> + <p> + The people were very hungry; they had eaten every scrap of meat, and every + grain they possessed, twenty hours before, and there was no immediate + prospect of food. I had but a pound and a half of flour left, and this + would not have sufficed to begin to feed a force of over forty-five + people; but I had something like thirty pounds of tea, and twenty pounds + of sugar left, and I at once, as soon as we arrived at camp, ordered every + kettle to be filled and placed on the fire, and then made tea for all; + giving each man a quart of a hot, grateful beverage; well sweetened. + Parties stole out also into the depths: of the jungle to search for wild + fruit, and soon returned laden with baskets of the wood-peach and tamarind + fruit, which though it did not satisfy, relieved them. That night, before + going to sleep, the Wangwana set up a loud prayer to "Allah" to give them + food. + </p> + <p> + We rose betimes in the morning, determined to travel on until food could + be procured, or we dropped down from sheer fatigue and weakness. + Rhinoceros' tracks abounded, and buffalo seemed to be plentiful, but we + never beheld a living thing. We crossed scores of short steeps, and + descended as often into the depths of dry, stony gullies, and then finally + entered a valley, bounded on one side by a triangular mountain with + perpendicular sides, and on the other by a bold group, a triplet of hills. + While marching down this valley—which soon changed its dry, bleached + aspect to a vivid green—we saw a forest in the distance, and shortly + found ourselves in corn-fields. Looking keenly around for a village, we + descried it on the summit of the lofty triangular hill on our right. A + loud exultant shout was raised at the discovery. The men threw down their + packs, and began to clamour for food. Volunteers were asked to come + forward to take cloth, and scale the heights to obtain it from the + village, at any price. While three or four sallied off we rested on the + ground, quite worn out. In about an hour the foraging party returned with + the glorious tidings that food was plentiful; that the village we saw was + called, "Welled Nzogera's"—the son of Nzogera—by which, of + course, we knew that we were in Uvinza, Nzogera being the principal chief + in Uvinza. We were further informed that Nzogera, the father, was at war + with Lokanda-Mire, about some salt-pans in the valley of the Malagarazi, + and that it would be difficult to go to Ujiji by the usual road, owing to + this war; but, for a consideration, the son of Nzogera was willing to + supply us with guides, who would take us safely, by a northern road, to + Ujiji. + </p> + <p> + Everything auguring well for our prospects, we encamped to enjoy the good + cheer, for which our troubles and privations, during the transit of the + Ukawendi forests and jungles, had well prepared us. + </p> + <p> + I am now going to extract from my Diary of the march, as, without its aid, + I deem it impossible to relate fully our various experiences, so as to + show them properly as they occurred to us; and as these extracts were + written and recorded at the close of each day, they possess more interest, + in my opinion, than a cold relation of facts, now toned down in memory. + </p> + <p> + October 31st. Tuesday.—Our road led E.N.E. for a considerable time + after leaving the base of the triangular mountain whereon the son of + Nzogera has established his stronghold, in order to avoid a deep and + impassable portion of marsh, that stood between us and the direct route to + the Malagarazi River. The valley sloped rapidly to this marsh, which + received in its broad bosom the drainage of three extensive ranges. Soon + we turned our faces northwest, and prepared to cross the marsh; and the + guides informed us, as we halted on its eastern bank, of a terrible + catastrophe which occurred a few yards above where we were preparing to + cross. They told of an Arab and his caravan, consisting of thirty-five + slaves, who had suddenly sunk out of sight, and who were never more heard + of. This marsh, as it appeared to us, presented a breadth of some hundreds + of yards, on which grew a close network of grass, with much decayed matter + mixed up with it. In the centre of this, and underneath it, ran a broad, + deep, and rapid stream. As the guides proceeded across, the men stole + after them with cautious footsteps. As they arrived near the centre we + began to see this unstable grassy bridge, so curiously provided by nature + for us, move up and down in heavy languid undulations, like the swell of + the sea after a storm. Where the two asses of the Expedition moved, the + grassy waves rose a foot high; but suddenly one unfortunate animal plunged + his feet through, and as he was unable to rise, he soon made a deep + hollow, which was rapidly filling with water. With the aid of ten men, + however, we were enabled to lift him bodily up and land him on a firmer + part, and guiding them both across rapidly, the entire caravan crossed + without accident. + </p> + <p> + On arriving at the other side, we struck off to the north, and found + ourselves in a delightful country, in every way suitable for + agriculturists. Great rocks rose here and there, but in their fissures + rose stately trees, under whose umbrage nestled the villages of the + people. We found the various village elders greedy for cloth, but the + presence of the younger son of Nzogera's men restrained their propensity + for extortion. Goats and sheep were remarkably cheap, and in good + condition; and, consequently, to celebrate our arrival near the + Malagarazi, a flock of eight goats was slaughtered, and distributed to the + men. + </p> + <p> + November 1st.—Striking north-west, after leaving our camp, and + descending the slope of a mountain, we soon beheld the anxiously + looked-for Malagarazi, a narrow but deep stream, flowing through a valley + pent in by lofty mountains. Fish-eating birds lined the trees on its + banks; villages were thickly scattered about. Food was abundant and cheap. + </p> + <p> + After travelling along the left bank of the river a few miles, we arrived + at the settlements recognizing Kiala as their ruler. I had anticipated we + should be able at once to cross the river, but difficulties arose. We were + told to camp, before any negotiations could be entered into. When we + demurred, we were informed we might cross the river if we wished, but we + should not be assisted by any Mvinza. + </p> + <p> + Being compelled to halt for this day, the tent was pitched in the middle + of one of the villages, and the bales were stored in one of the huts, with + four soldiers to guard them. After despatching an embassy to Kiala, eldest + son of the great chief Nzogera, to request permission to cross the river + as a peaceable caravan, Kiala sent word that the white man should cross + his river after the payment of fifty-six cloths! Fifty-six cloths + signified a bale nearly! + </p> + <p> + Here was another opportunity for diplomacy. Bombay and Asmani were + empowered to treat with Kiala about the honga, but it was not to exceed + twenty-five doti. At 6 A.M., having spoken for seven hours, the two men + returned, with the demand for thirteen doti for Nzogera, and ten doti for + Kiala. Poor Bombay was hoarse, but Asmani still smiled; and I relented, + congratulating myself that the preposterous demand, which was simply + robbery, was no worse. + </p> + <p> + Three hours later another demand was made. Kiala had been visited by a + couple of chiefs from his father; and the chiefs being told that a white + man was at the ferry, put in a claim for a couple of guns and a keg of + gunpowder. But here my patience was exhausted, and I declared that they + should have to take them by force, for I would never consent to be robbed + and despoiled after any such fashion. + </p> + <p> + Until 11 P.M., Bombay and Asmani were negotiating about this extra demand, + arguing, quarreling, threatening, until Bombay declared they would talk + him mad if it lasted much longer. I told Bombay to take two cloths, one + for each chief, and, if they did not consider it enough, then I should + fight. The present was taken, and the negotiations were terminated at + midnight. + </p> + <p> + November 2nd.—Ihata Island, one and a half hour west of Kiala's. We + arrived before the Island of Ihata, on the left bank of the Malagarazi, at + 5 p.m.; the morning having been wasted in puerile talk with the owner of + the canoes at the ferry. The final demand for ferriage across was eight + yards of cloth and four fundo* of sami-sami, or red beads; which was at + once paid. Four men, with their loads, were permitted to cross in the + small, unshapely, and cranky canoes. When the boatmen had discharged their + canoes of their passengers and cargoes, they were ordered to halt on the + other side, and, to my astonishment, another demand was made. The ferrymen + had found that two fundo of these were of short measure, and two fundo + more must be paid, otherwise the contract for ferrying us across would be + considered null and void. So two fundo more were added, but not without + demur and much "talk," which in these lands is necessary. + </p> + <p> + ** 4 fundo == 40 necklaces; 1 fundo being 10 necklaces. + </p> + <p> + Three times the canoes went backwards and forwards, when, lo! another + demand was made, with the usual clamour and fierce wordy dispute; this + time for five khete # for the man who guided us to the ferry, a shukka of + cloth for a babbler, who had attached himself to the old-womanish Jumah, + who did nothing but babble and increase the clamor. These demands were + also settled. + </p> + <p> + # Necklaces. + </p> + <p> + About sunset we endeavoured to cross the donkeys. "Simba," a fine wild + Kinyamwezi donkey, went in first, with a rope attached to his neck. He had + arrived at the middle of the stream when we saw him begin to struggle—a + crocodile had seized him by the throat. The poor animal's struggles were + terrific. Chowpereh was dragging on the rope with all his might, but to no + use, for the donkey sank, and we saw no more of him. The depth of the + river at this place was about fifteen feet. We had seen the light-brown + heads, the glittering eyes, and the ridgy backs, hovering about the + vicinity, but we had never thought that the reptiles would advance so near + such an exciting scene as the vicinity of the ferry presented during the + crossing. Saddened a little by this loss, we resumed our work, and by 7 + P.M. we were all across, excepting Bombay and the only donkey now left, + which was to be brought across in the morning, when the crocodiles should + have deserted the river. + </p> + <p> + November 3rd.—What contention have we not been a witness to these + last three days! What anxiety have we not suffered ever since our arrival + in Uvinza! The Wavinza are worse than the Wagogo, and their greed is more + insatiable. We got the donkey across with the aid of a mganga, or medicine + man, who spat some chewed leaves of a tree which grows close to the stream + over him. He informed me he could cross the river at any time, day or + night, after rubbing his body with these chewed leaves, which he believed + to be a most potent medicine. + </p> + <p> + About 10 A.M. appeared from the direction of Ujiji a caravan of eighty + Waguhha, a tribe which occupies a tract of country on the south-western + side of the Lake Tanganika. We asked the news, and were told a white man + had just arrived at Ujiji from Manyuema. This news startled us all. + </p> + <p> + "A white man?" we asked. + </p> + <p> + "Yes, a white man," they replied. + </p> + <p> + "How is he dressed?" + </p> + <p> + "Like the master," they answered, referring to me. + </p> + <p> + "Is he young, or old?" + </p> + <p> + "He is old. He has white hair on his face, and is sick." + </p> + <p> + "Where has he come from?" + </p> + <p> + "From a very far country away beyond Uguhha, called Manyuema." + </p> + <p> + "Indeed! and is he stopping at Ujiji now?" + </p> + <p> + "Yes, we saw him about eight days ago." + </p> + <p> + "Do you think he will stop there until we see him?" + </p> + <p> + "Sigue" (don't know). + </p> + <p> + "Was he ever at Ujiji before?" + </p> + <p> + "Yes, he went away a long time ago." + </p> + <p> + Hurrah! This is Livingstone! He must be Livingstone! He can be no other; + but still;—he may be some one else—some one from the West + Coast—or perhaps he is Baker! No; Baker has no white hair on his + face. But we must now march quick, lest he hears we are coming, and runs + away. + </p> + <p> + I addressed my men, and asked them if they were willing to march to Ujiji + without a single halt, and then promised them, if they acceded to my + wishes, two doti each man. All answered in the affirmative, almost as much + rejoiced as I was myself. But I was madly rejoiced; intensely eager to + resolve the burning question, "Is it Dr. David Livingstone?" God grant me + patience, but I do wish there was a railroad, or, at least, horses in this + country. + </p> + <p> + We set out at once from the banks of the Malagarazi, accompanied by two + guides furnished us by Usenge, the old man of the ferry, who, now that we + had crossed, showed himself more amiably disposed to us. We arrived at the + village of Isinga, Sultan Katalambula, after a little over an hour's march + across a saline plain, but which as we advanced into the interior became + fertile and productive. + </p> + <p> + November 4th.—Started early with great caution, maintaining deep + silence. The guides were sent forward, one two hundred yards ahead of the + other, that we might be warned in time. The first part of the march was + through a thin jungle of dwarf trees, which got thinner and thinner until + finally it vanished altogether, and we had entered Uhha—a plain + country. Villages were visible by the score among the tall bleached stalks + of dourra and maize. Sometimes three, sometimes five, ten, or twenty + beehive-shaped huts formed a village. The Wahha were evidently living in + perfect security, for not one village amongst them all was surrounded with + the customary defence of an African village. A narrow dry ditch formed the + only boundary between Uhha and Uvinza. On entering Uhha, all danger from + Makumbi vanished. + </p> + <p> + We halted at Kawanga, the chief of which lost no time in making us + understand that he was the great Mutware of Kimenyi under the king, and + that he was the tribute gatherer for his Kiha majesty. He declared that he + was the only one in Kimenyi—an eastern division of Uhha—who + could demand tribute; and that it would be very satisfactory to him, and a + saving of trouble to ourselves, if we settled his claim of twelve doti of + good cloths at once. We did not think it the best way of proceeding, + knowing as we did the character of the native African; so we at once + proceeded to diminish this demand; but, after six hours' hot argument, the + Mutware only reduced it by two. This claim was then settled, upon the + understanding that we should be allowed to travel through Uhha as far as + the Rusugi River without being further mulcted. + </p> + <p> + November 5th.—Leaving Kawanga early in the morning and continuing + our march over the boundless plains, which were bleached white by the hot + equatorial sun, we were marching westward full of pleasant anticipations + that we were nearing the end of our troubles, joyfully congratulating + ourselves that within five days we should see that which I had come so far + from civilisation, and through so many difficulties, to see, and were + about passing a cluster of villages, with all the confidence which men + possess against whom no one had further claim or a word to say, when I + noticed two men darting from a group of natives who were watching us, and + running towards the head of the Expedition, with the object, evidently, of + preventing further progress. + </p> + <p> + The caravan stopped, and I walked forward to ascertain the cause from the + two natives. I was greeted politely by the two Wahha with the usual + "Yambos," and was then asked, "Why does the white man pass by the village + of the King of Uhha without salutation and a gift? Does not the white man + know there lives a king in Uhha, to whom the Wangwana and Arabs pay + something for right of passage?" + </p> + <p> + "Why, we paid last night to the chief of Kawanga, who informed us that he + was the man deputed by the King of Uhha to collect the toll." + </p> + <p> + "How much did you pay?" + </p> + <p> + "Ten doti of good cloth." + </p> + <p> + "Are you sure?" + </p> + <p> + "Quite sure. If you ask him, he will tell you so." + </p> + <p> + "Well," said one of the Wahha, a fine, handsome, intelligent-looking + youth, "it is our duty to the king to halt you here until we find out the + truth of this. Will you walk to our village, and rest yourselves under the + shade of our trees until we can send messengers to Kawanga?" + </p> + <p> + "No; the sun is but an hour high, and we have far to travel; but, in order + to show you we do not seek to pass through your country without doing that + which is right, we will rest where we now stand, and we will send with + your messengers two of our soldiers, who will show you the man to whom we + paid the cloth." + </p> + <p> + The messengers departed; but, in the meantime, the handsome youth, who + turned out to be the nephew of the King, whispered some order to a lad, + who immediately hastened away, with the speed of an antelope, to the + cluster of villages which we had just passed. The result of this errand, + as we saw in a short time, was the approach of a body of warriors, about + fifty in number, headed by a tall, fine-looking man, who was dressed in a + crimson robe called Joho, two ends of which were tied in a knot over the + left shoulder; a new piece of American sheeting was folded like a turban + around his head, and a large curved piece of polished ivory was suspended + to his neck. He and his people were all armed with spears, and bows and + arrows, and their advance was marked with a deliberation that showed they + felt confidence in any issue that might transpire. + </p> + <p> + We were halted on the eastern side of the Pombwe stream, near the village + of Lukomo, in Kimenyi, Uhha. The gorgeously-dressed chief was a remarkable + man in appearance. His face was oval in form, high cheek-bones, eyes + deeply sunk, a prominent and bold forehead, a fine nose, and a well-cut + mouth; he was tall in figure, and perfectly symmetrical. + </p> + <p> + When near to us, he hailed me with the words, + </p> + <p> + "Yambo, bana?—How do you do, master?" in quite a cordial tone. + </p> + <p> + I replied cordially also, "Yambo, mutware?—How do you do, chief?" + </p> + <p> + We, myself and men, interchanged "Yambos" with his warriors; and there was + nothing in our first introduction to indicate that the meeting was of a + hostile character. + </p> + <p> + The chief seated himself, his haunches resting on his heels, laying down + his bow and arrows by his side; his men did likewise. + </p> + <p> + I seated myself on a bale, and each of my men sat down on their loads, + forming quite a semicircle. The Wahha slightly outnumbered my party; but, + while they were only armed with bows and arrows, spears, and knob-sticks, + we were armed with rifles, muskets, revolvers, pistols, and hatchets. + </p> + <p> + All were seated, and deep silence was maintained by the assembly. The + great plains around us were as still in this bright noon as if they were + deserted of all living creatures. Then the chief spoke: + </p> + <p> + "I am Mionvu, the great Mutware of Kimenyi, and am next to the King, who + lives yonder," pointing to a large village near some naked hills about ten + miles to the north. "I have come to talk with the white man. It has always + been the custom of the Arabs and the Wangwana to make a present to the + King when they pass through his country. Does not the white man mean to + pay the King's dues? Why does the white man halt in the road? Why will he + not enter the village of Lukomo, where there is food and shade—where + we can discuss this thing quietly? Does the white man mean to fight? I + know well he is stronger than we are. His men have guns, and the Wahha + have but bows and arrows, and spears; but Uhha is large, and our villages + are many. Let him look about him everywhere—all is Uhha, and our + country extends much further than he can see or walk in a day. The King of + Uhha is strong; yet he wishes friendship only with the white man. Will the + white man have war or peace?" + </p> + <p> + A deep murmur of assent followed this speech of Mionvu from his people, + and disapprobation, blended with a certain uneasiness; from my men. When + about replying, the words of General Sherman, which I heard him utter to + the chiefs of the Arapahoes and Cheyennes at North Platte, in 1867, came + to my mind; and something of their spirit I embodied in my reply to + Mionvu, Mutware of Kimenyi. + </p> + <p> + "Mionvu, the great Mutware, asks me if I have come for war. When did + Mionvu ever hear of white men warring against black men? Mionvu must + understand that the white men are different from the black. White men do + not leave their country to fight the black people, neither do they come + here to buy ivory or slaves. They come to make friends with black people; + they come to search for rivers; and lakes, and mountains; they come to + discover what countries, what peoples, what rivers, what lakes, what + forests, what plains, what mountains and hills are in your country; to + know the different animals that are in the land of the black people, that, + when they go back, they may tell the white kings, and men, and children, + what they have seen and heard in the land so far from them. The white + people are different from the Arabs and Wangwana; the white people know + everything, and are very strong. When they fight, the Arabs and the + Wangwana run away. We have great guns which thunder, and when they shoot + the earth trembles; we have guns which carry bullets further than you can + see: even with these little things" (pointing to my revolvers) "I could + kill ten men quicker than you could count. We are stronger than the Wahha. + Mionvu has spoken the truth, yet we do not wish to fight. I could kill + Mionvu now, yet I talk to him as to a friend. I wish to be a friend to + Mionvu, and to all black people. Will Mionvu say what I can do for him?" + </p> + <p> + As these words were translated to him—imperfectly, I suppose, but + still, intelligibly—the face of the Wahha showed how well they + appreciated them. Once or twice I thought I detected something like fear, + but my assertions that I desired peace and friendship with them soon + obliterated all such feelings. + </p> + <p> + Mionvu replied: + </p> + <p> + "The white man tells me he is friendly. Why does he not come to our + village? Why does he stop on the road? The sun is hot. Mionvu will not + speak here any more. If the white man is a friend he will come to the + village." + </p> + <p> + "We must stop now. It is noon. You have broken our march. We will go and + camp in your village," I said, at the same time rising and pointing to the + men to take up their loads. + </p> + <p> + We were compelled to camp; there was no help for it; the messengers had + not returned from Kawanga. Having arrived in his village, Mionvu had cast + himself at full length under the scanty shade afforded by a few trees + within the boma. About 2 P.M. the messengers returned, saying it was true + the chief of Kawanga had taken ten cloths; not, however for the King of + Uhha, but for himself! + </p> + <p> + Mionvu, who evidently was keen-witted, and knew perfectly what he was + about, now roused himself, and began to make miniature faggots of thin + canes, ten in each faggot, and shortly he presented ten of these small + bundles, which together contained one hundred, to me, saying each stick + represented a cloth, and the amount of the "honga" required by the King of + Uhha was ONE HUNDRED CLOTHS!—nearly two bales! + </p> + <p> + Recovering from our astonishment, which was almost indescribable, we + offered TEN. + </p> + <p> + "Ten! to the King of Uhha! Impossible. You do not stir from Lukomo until + you pay us one hundred!" exclaimed Mionvu, in a significant manner. + </p> + <p> + I returned no answer, but went to my hut, which Mionvu had cleared for my + use, and Bombay, Asmani, Mabruki, and Chowpereh were invited—to come + to me for consultation. Upon my asking them if we could not fight our way + through Uhha, they became terror-stricken, and Bombay, in imploring + accents, asked me to think well what I was about to do, because it was + useless to enter on a war with the Wahha. "Uhha is all a plain country; we + cannot hide anywhere. Every village will rise all about us, and how can + forty-five men fight thousands of people? They would kill us all in a few + minutes, and how would you ever reach Ujiji if you died? Think of it, my + dear master, and do not throw your life away for a few rags of cloth." + </p> + <p> + "Well, but, Bombay, this is robbery. Shall we submit to be robbed? Shall + we give this fellow everything he asks? He might as well ask me for all + the cloth, and all my guns, without letting him see that we can fight. I + can kill Mionvu and his principal men myself, and you can slay all those + howlers out there without much trouble. If Mionvu and his principal were + dead we should not be troubled much, and we could strike south to the + Mala-garazi, and go west to Ujiji." + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + "No, no, dear master, don't think of it for a moment. If we went + neat the Malagarazi we should come across Lokanda-Mira." + + "Well, then, we will go north." + + "Up that way Uhha extends far; and beyond Uhha are the Watuta." + + "Well, then, say what we shall do. We must do something; but we + must not be robbed." + + "Pay Mionvu what he asks, and let us go away from here. This is + the last place we shall have to pay. And in four days we shall be + in Ujiji." + + "Did Mionvu tell you that this is the last time we would have to + pay?" + + "He did, indeed." + + "What do you say, Asmani? Shall we fight or pay?" Asmani's + face wore the usual smile, but he replied, + + "I am afraid we must pay. This is positively the last time." + + "And you, Chowpereh?" + + "Pay, bana; it is better to get along quietly in this country. + If we were strong enough they would pay us. Ah, if we had only + two hundred guns, how these Wahha would run!" + + "What do you say, Mabruki?" + + "Ah, master, dear master; it is very hard, and these people are + great robbers. I would like to chop their heads off, all; so I + would. But you had better pay. This is the last time; and what + are one hundred cloths to you?" + + "Well, then, Bombay and Asmani, go to Mionvu, and offer him twenty. + If he will not take twenty, give him thirty. If he refuses thirty, + give him forty; then go up to eighty, slowly. Make plenty of talk; + not one doti more. I swear to you I will shoot Mionvu if he demands + more than eighty. Go, and remember to be wise." + + I will cut the matter short. At 9 P.M. sixty-four doti were + handed over to Mionvu, for the King of Uhha; six doti for + himself, and five doti for his sub; altogether seventy-five doti— + a bale and a quarter! No sooner had we paid than they began to + fight amongst themselves over the booty, and I was in hopes that + the factions would proceed to battle, that I might have good excuse + for leaving them, and plunging south to the jungle that I believed + existed there, by which means, under its friendly cover, we might + strike west. But no, it was only a verbose war, which portended + nothing more than a noisy clamor. + + November 6th.—At dawn we were on the road, very silent and sad. + Our stock of cloth was much diminished; we had nine bales left, + sufficient to have taken us to the Atlantic Ocean—aided by the + beads, which were yet untouched—if we practised economy. If I + met many more like Mionvu I had not enough to take me to Ujiji, + and, though we were said to be so near, Livingstone seemed to me + to be just as far as ever. + + We crossed the Pombwe, and then struck across a slowly-undulating + plain rising gradually to mountains on our right, and on our left + sinking towards the valley of the Malagarazi, which river was + about twenty miles away. Villages rose to our view everywhere. + Food was cheap, milk was plentiful, and the butter good. + + After a four hours' march, we crossed the Kanengi River, and + entered the boma of Kahirigi, inhabited by several Watusi and Wahha. + Here, we were told, lived the King of Uhha's brother. This + announcement was anything but welcome, and I began to suspect I had + fallen into another hornets' nest. We had not rested two hours + before two Wangwana entered my tent, who were slaves of Thani bin + Abdullah, our dandified friend of Unyanyembe. These men came, on + the part of the king's brother, to claim the HONGA! The king's + brother, demanded thirty doti! Half a bale! Merciful Providence! + What shall I do? + + We had been told by Mionvu that the honga of Uhha was settled—and + now here is another demand from the King's brother! It is the + second time the lie has been told, and we have twice been deceived. + We shall be deceived no more. + + These two men informed us there were five more chiefs, living but + two hours from each other, who would exact tribute, or black-mail, + like those we had seen. Knowing this much, I felt a certain calm. + It was far better to know the worst at once. Five more chiefs with + their demands would assuredly ruin us. In view of which, what is + to be done? How am I to reach Livingstone, without being beggared? + + Dismissing the men, I called Bombay, and told him to assist Asmani + in settling the honga—"as cheaply as possible." I then lit my + pipe, put on the cap of consideration, and began to think. Within + half an hour, I had made a plan, which was to be attempted to be + put in execution that very night. + + I summoned the two slaves of Thani bin Abdullah, after the honga + had been settled to everybody's satisfaction—though the profoundest + casuistries and diplomatic arguments failed to reduce it lower than + twenty-six doti—and began asking them about the possibility of + evading the tribute-taking Wahha ahead. + + This rather astonished them at first, and they declared it to be + impossible; but, finally, after being pressed, they replied, that + one of their number should guide us at midnight, or a little after, + into the jungle which grew on the frontiers of Uhha and Uvinza. By + keeping a direct west course through this jungle until we came to + Ukaranga we might be enabled—we were told—to travel through Uhha + without further trouble. If I were willing to pay the guide + twelve doti, and if I were able to impose silence on my people + while passing through the sleeping village, the guide was positive + I could reach Ujiji without paying another doti. It is needless to + add, that I accepted the proffered assistance at such a price with + joy. + + But there was much to be done. Provisions were to be purchased, + sufficient to last four days, for the tramp through the jungle, + and men were at once sent with cloth to purchase grain at any price. + Fortune favoured us, for before 8 P.M. we had enough for six days. + + November 7th.—I did not go to sleep at all last night, but a + little after midnight, as the moon was beginning to show itself, + by gangs of four, the men stole quietly out of the village; and + by 3 A.M. the entire Expedition was outside the boma, and not the + slightest alarm had been made. After a signal to the new guide, + the Expedition began to move in a southern direction along the + right bank of the Kanengi River. After an hour's march in this + direction, we struck west, across the grassy plain, and maintained + it, despite the obstacles we encountered, which were sore enough to + naked men. The bright moon lighted our path: dark clouds now and + then cast immense long shadows over the deserted and silent plains, + and the moonbeans were almost obscured, and at such times our + position seemed awful— + + Till the moon. + Rising in clouded majesty, at length, + Apparent queen, unveiled her peerless light, + And o'er the dark her silver mantle threw. + + Bravely toiled the men, without murmur, though their legs were + bleeding from the cruel grass. "Ambrosial morn" at last appeared, + with all its beautiful and lovely features. Heaven was born anew + to us, with comforting omens and cheery promise. The men, though + fatigued at the unusual travel, sped forward with quicker, pace as + daylight broke, until, at 8 A.M., we sighted the swift Rusugi River, + when a halt was ordered in a clump of jungle near it, for breakfast + and rest. Both banks of the river were alive with buffalo, eland, + and antelope, but, though the sight was very tempting, we did not + fire, because we dared not. The report of a gun would have alarmed + the whole country. I preferred my coffee, and the contentment which + my mind experienced at our success. + + An hour after we had rested, some natives, carrying salt from the + Malagarazi, were seen coming up the right bank of the river. When + abreast of our hiding-place, they detected us, and dropping their + salt-bags, they took to their heels at once, shouting out as they + ran, to alarm some villages that appeared about four miles north of + us. The men were immediately ordered to take up their loads, and + in a few minutes we had crossed the Rusugi, and were making direct + for a bamboo jungle that appeared in our front. On, on, we kept + steadily until, at 1 P.M., we sighted the little lake of Musunya, + as wearied as possible with our nine hours march. + + Lake Musunya is one of the many circular basins found in this part + of Uhha. There was quite a group of them. The more correct term + of these lakes would be immense pools. In the Masika season, Lake + Musunya must extend to three or four miles in length by two in breadth. + It swarms with hippopotami, and its shores abound with noble game. + + We were very quiet, as may be imagined, in our bivouac; neither + tent nor hut was raised, nor was fire kindled, so that, in case of + pursuit, we could move off without delay. I kept my Winchester + rifle (the gift of my friend Mr. Morris, and a rare gift it was + for such a crisis) with its magazine full, and two hundred + cartridges in a bag slung over my shoulders. Each soldier's gun + was also ready and loaded, and we retired to sleep our fatigues + off with a feeling of perfect security. + + November 8th.—Long before dawn appeared, we were on the march, and, + as daylight broke, we emerged from the bamboo jungle, and struck + across the naked plain of Uhha, once more passing several large + pools by the way—far-embracing prospects of undulating country, + with here and there a characteristic clump of trees relieving the + general nudity of the whole. Hour after hour we toiled on, + across the rolling land waves, the sun shining with all its wonted + African fervor, but with its heat slightly tempered by the + welcome breezes, which came laden with the fragrance of young + grass, and perfume of strange flowers of various hues, that flecked + the otherwise pale-green sheet which extended so far around us. + + We arrived at the Rugufu River—not the Ukawendi Rugufu, but the + northern stream of that name, a tributary of the Malagarazi. It + was a broad shallow stream, and sluggish, with an almost imperceptible + flow south-west. While we halted in the deep shade afforded by a + dense clump of jungle, close to the right bank, resting awhile before + continuing our journey. I distinctly heard a sound as of distant + thunder in the west. Upon asking if it were thunder, I was told it + was Kabogo. + + "Kabogo? what is that?" + + "It is a great mountain on the other side of the Tanganika, full + of deep holes, into which the water rolls; and when there is wind + on the Tanganika, there is a sound like mvuha (thunder). Many + boats have been lost there, and it is a custom with Arabs and + natives to throw cloth—Merikani and Kaniki—and especially white + (Merikani) beads, to appease the mulungu (god) of the lake. + Those who throw beads generally get past without trouble, + but those who do not throw beads into the lake get lost, and are + drowned. Oh, it is a dreadful place!" This story was told me by + the ever-smiling guide Asmani, and was corroborated by other + former mariners of the lake whom I had with me. + + At the least, this place where we halted for dinner, on the banks + of the Rugufu River, is eighteen and a half hours, or forty-six + miles, from Ujiji; and, as Kabogo is said to be near Uguhha, it + must be over sixty miles from Ujiji; therefore the sound of the + thundering surf, which is said to roll into the caves of Kabogo, + was heard by us at a distance of over one hundred miles away from + them. + + Continuing our journey for three hours longer, through thin + forests, over extensive beds of primitive rock, among fields of + large boulders thickly strewn about, passing by numerous herds + of buffalo, giraffe, and zebra, over a quaking quagmire which + resembled peat, we arrived at the small stream of Sunuzzi, to a + camping place only a mile removed from a large settlement of Wahha. + But we were buried in the depths of a great forest—no road was in + the vicinity, no noise was made, deep silence was preserved; nor + were fires lit. We might therefore rest tranquilly secure, certain + that we should not be disturbed. To-morrow morning the kirangozi + has promised we shall be out of Uhha, and if we travel on to + Niamtaga, in Ukaranga, the same day, the next day would see us + in Ujiji. + + Patience, my soul! A few hours more, then the end of all this + will be known! I shall be face to face with that "white man with + the white hairs on his face, whoever he is!" + + November 9th.—Two hours before dawn we left our camp on the Sunuzzi + River, and struck through the forest in a north-by-west direction, + having muzzled our goats previously, lest, by their bleating, they + might betray us. This was a mistake which might have ended + tragically, for just as the eastern sky began to assume a pale + greyish tint, we emerged from the jungle on the high road. The + guide thought we had passed Uhha, and set up a shout which was + echoed by every member of the caravan, and marched onward with + new vigor and increased energy, when plump we came to the outskirts + of a village, the inhabitants of which were beginning to stir. + Silence was called for at once, and the Expedition halted + immediately. I walked forward to the front to advise with the guide. + He did not know what to do. There was no time to consider, so I + ordered the goats to be slaughtered and left on the road, and the + guide to push on boldly through the village. The chickens also had + their throats cut; after which the Expedition resumed the march + quickly and silently, led by the guide, who had orders to plunge + into the jungle south of the road. I stayed until the last man + had disappeared; then, after preparing my Winchester, brought up + the rear, followed by my gunbearers with their stock of ammunition. + As we were about disappearing beyond the last hut, a man darted out + of his hut, and uttered an exclamation of alarm, and loud voices + were heard as if in dispute. But in a short time we were in the + depths of the jungle, hurrying away from the road in a southern + direction, and edging slightly westward. Once I thought we were + pursued, and I halted behind a tree to check our foes if they + persisted in following us; but a few minutes proved to me that we + were not pursued, After half-an-hour's march we again turned our + faces westward. It was broad daylight now, and our eyes were + delighted with most picturesque and sequestered little valleys, + where wild fruit-trees grew, and rare flowers blossomed, and + tiny brooks tumbled over polished pebbles—where all was bright + and beautiful—until, finally, wading through one pretty pure + streamlet, whose soft murmurs we took for a gentle welcome, we + passed the boundary of wicked Uhha, and had entered Ukaranga!— + an event that was hailed with extravagant shouts of joy. + + Presently we found the smooth road, and we trod gaily with + elastic steps, with limbs quickened for the march which we all + knew to be drawing near its end. What cared we now for the + difficulties we had encountered—for the rough and cruel forests, + for the thorny thickets and hurtful grass, for the jangle of all + savagedom, of which we had been the joyless audience! To-morrow! + Ay, the great day draws nigh, and we may well laugh and sing while + in this triumphant mood. We have been sorely tried; we have been + angry with each other when vexed by troubles, but we forget all + these now, and there is no face but is radiant with the happiness + we have all deserved. + + We made a short halt at noon, for rest and refreshment. I was + shown the hills from which the Tanganika could be seen, which + bounded the valley of the Liuche on the east. I could not contain + myself at the sight of them. Even with this short halt I was + restless and unsatisfied. We resumed the march again. I spurred + my men forward with the promise that to-morrow should see their reward. + + We were in sight of the villages of the Wakaranga; the people + caught sight of us, and manifested considerable excitement. I sent + men ahead to reassure them, and they came forward to greet us. This + was so new and welcome to us, so different from the turbulent Wavinza + and the black-mailers of Uhha, that we were melted. But we had + no time to loiter by the way to indulge our joy. I was impelled onward + by my almost uncontrollable feelings. I wished to resolve my doubts + and fears. Was HE still there? Had HE heard of my coming? Would HE + fly? + + How beautiful Ukaranga appears! The green hills are crowned by + clusters of straw-thatched cones. The hills rise and fall; here + denuded and cultivated, there in pasturage, here timbered, yonder + swarming with huts. The country has somewhat the aspect of Maryland. + + We cross the Mkuti, a glorious little river! We ascend the opposite + bank, and stride through the forest like men who have done a deed + of which they may be proud. We have already travelled nine hours, + and the sun is sinking rapidly towards the west; yet, apparently, + we are not fatigued. + + We reach the outskirts of Niamtaga, and we hear drums beat. The + people are flying into the woods; they desert their villages, for + they take us to be Ruga-Ruga—the forest thieves of Mirambo, who, + after conquering the Arabs of Unyanyembe, are coming to fight the + Arabs of Ujiji. Even the King flies from his village, and every + man, woman, and child, terror-stricken, follows him. We enter + into it and quietly take possession. Finally, the word is bruited + about that we are Wangwana, from Unyanyembe. + + "Well, then, is Mirambo dead?" they ask. + + "No," we answer. + + "Well, how did you come to Ukaranga?" + + "By way of Ukonongo, Ukawendi, and Uhha." + + "Oh—hi-le!" Then they laugh heartily at their fright, and begin + to make excuses. The King is introduced to me, and he says he had + only gone to the woods in order to attack us again—he meant to have + come back and killed us all, if we had been Ruga-Ruga. But then we + know the poor King was terribly frightened, and would never have + dared to return, had we been RugaRuga—not he. We are not, however, + in a mood to quarrel with him about an idiomatic phrase peculiar + to him, but rather take him by the hand and shake it well, and say + we are so very glad to see him. And he shares in our pleasure, + and immediately three of the fattest sheep, pots of beer, flour, + and honey are brought to us as a gift, and I make him happier still + with two of the finest cloths I have in my bales; and thus a + friendly pact is entered into between us. + + While I write my Diary of this day's proceedings, I tell my + servant to lay out my new flannel suit, to oil my boots, to + chalk my helmet, and fold a new puggaree around it, that I may + make as presentable an appearance as possible before the white + man with the grey beard, and before the Arabs of Ujiji; for the + clothes I have worn through jungle and forest are in tatters. + Good-night; only let one day come again, and we shall see what + we shall see. + + November 10th. Friday.—The 236th day from Bagamoyo on the Sea, + and the 51st day from Unyanyembe. General direction to Ujiji, + west-by-south. Time of march, six hours. + + It is a happy, glorious morning. The air is fresh and cool. + The sky lovingly smiles on the earth and her children. The deep + woods are crowned in bright vernal leafage; the water of the Mkuti, + rushing under the emerald shade afforded by the bearded banks, + seems to challenge us for the race to Ujiji, with its continuous + brawl. + + We are all outside the village cane fence, every man of us looking + as spruce, as neat, and happy as when we embarked on the dhows at + Zanzibar, which seems to us to have been ages ago—we have witnessed + and experienced so much. + + "Forward!" + + "Ay Wallah, ay Wallah, bana yango!" and the lighthearted braves + stride away at a rate which must soon bring us within view of + Ujiji. We ascend a hill overgrown with bamboo, descend into a + ravine through which dashes an impetuous little torrent, ascend + another short hill, then, along a smooth footpath running across + the slope of a long ridge, we push on as only eager, lighthearted + men can do. + + In two hours I am warned to prepare for a view of the Tanganika, + for, from the top of a steep mountain the kirangozi says I can see + it. I almost vent the feeling of my heart in cries. But wait, we + must behold it first. And we press forward and up the hill + breathlessly, lest the grand scene hasten away. We are at last on + the summit. Ah! not yet can it be seen. A little further on—just + yonder, oh! there it is—a silvery gleam. I merely catch sight of + it between the trees, and—but here it is at last! True—THE TANGANIKA! + and there are the blue-black mountains of Ugoma and Ukaramba. An + immense broad sheet, a burnished bed of silver—lucid canopy of + blue above—lofty mountains are its valances, palm forests form its + fringes! The Tanganika!—Hurrah! and the men respond to the + exultant cry of the Anglo-Saxon with the lungs of Stentors, and the + great forests and the hills seem to share in our triumph. + + "Was this the place where Burton and Speke stood, Bombay, when they + saw the lake first?" + + "I don't remember, master; it was somewhere about here, I think." + + "Poor fellows! The one was half-paralyzed, the other half-blind," + said Sir Roderick Murchison, when he described Burton and Spoke's + arrival in view of the Tanganika. + + And I? Well, I am so happy that, were I quite paralyzed and + blinded, I think that at this supreme moment I could take up my + bed and walk, and all blindness would cease at once. Fortunately, + however, I am quite well; I have not suffered a day's sickness + since the day I left Unyanyembe. How much would Shaw be willing + to give to be in my place now? Who is happiest—he revelling in + the luxuries of Unyanyembe, or I, standing on the summit of this + mountain, looking down with glad eyes and proud heart on the + Tanganika? + + We are descending the western slope of the mountain, with the + valley of the Liuche before us. Something like an hour before + noon we have gained the thick matete brake, which grows on both + banks of the river; we wade through the clear stream, arrive on + the other side, emerge out of the brake, and the gardens of the + Wajiji are around us—a perfect marvel of vegetable wealth. + Details escape my hasty and partial observation. I am almost + overpowered with my own emotions. I notice the graceful palms, + neat plots, green with vegetable plants, and small villages + surrounded with frail fences of the matete-cane. + + We push on rapidly, lest the news of our coming might reach the + people of Ujiji before we come in sight, and are ready for them. + We halt at a little brook, then ascend the long slope of a naked + ridge, the very last of the myriads we have crossed. This alone + prevents us from seeing the lake in all its vastness. We arrive + at the summit, travel across and arrive at its western rim, and— + pause, reader—the port of Ujiji is below us, embowered in the + palms, only five hundred yards from us! + + At this grand moment we do not think of the hundreds of miles we + have marched, or of the hundreds of hills that we have ascended + and descended, or of the many forests we have traversed, or of the + jungles and thickets that annoyed us, or of the fervid salt plains + that blistered our feet, or of the hot suns that scorched us, nor + of the dangers and difficulties, now happily surmounted! + + At last the sublime hour has arrived;—our dreams, our hopes, and + anticipations are now about to be realised! Our hearts and our + feelings are with our eyes, as we peer into the palms and try to + make out in which hut or house lives the "white man with the grey + beard" we heard about when we were at the Malagarazi. + + "Unfurl the flags, and load your guns!" + + "We will, master, we will, master!" respond the men eagerly. + + "One, two, three,—fire!" + + A volley from nearly fifty guns roars like a salute from a + battery of artillery: we shall note its effect presently on + the peaceful-looking village below. + + "Now, kirangozi, hold the white man's flag up high, and let the + Zanzibar flag bring up the rear. And you men keep close together, + and keep firing until we halt in the market-place, or before the + white man's house. You have said to me often that you could smell + the fish of the Tanganika—I can smell the fish of the Tanganika + now. There are fish, and beer, and a long rest waiting for you. + MARCH!" + + Before we had gone a hundred yards our repeated volleys had the + effect desired. We had awakened Ujiji to the knowledge that a + caravan was coming, and the people were witnessed rushing up in + hundreds to meet us. The mere sight of the flags informed every + one immediately that we were a caravan, but the American flag + borne aloft by gigantic Asmani, whose face was one vast smile on + this day, rather staggered them at first. However, many of the + people who now approached us, remembered the flag. They had seen + it float above the American Consulate, and from the mast-head of + many a ship in the harbor of Zanzibar, and they were soon heard + welcoming the beautiful flag with cries of "Bindera Kisungu!"—a + white man's flag! "Bindera Merikani!"—the American flag! + + Then we were surrounded by them: by Wajiji, Wanyamwezi, Wangwana, + Warundi, Waguhha, Wamanyuema, and Arabs, and were almost + deafened with the shouts of "Yambo, yambo, bana! Yambo, bana! + Yambo, bana!" To all and each of my men the welcome was given. + + We were now about three hundred yards from the village of Ujiji, + and the crowds are dense about me. Suddenly I hear a voice on + my right say, + + "Good morning, sir!" + + Startled at hearing this greeting in the midst of such a crowd of + black people, I turn sharply around in search of the man, and see + him at my side, with the blackest of faces, but animated and + joyous—a man dressed in a long white shirt, with a turban of + American sheeting around his woolly head, and I ask: + + "Who the mischief are you?" + + "I am Susi, the servant of Dr. Livingstone," said be, smiling, + and showing a gleaming row of teeth. + + "What! Is Dr. Livingstone here?" + + "Yes, sir." + + "In this village?" + + "Yes, sir." + + "Are you sure?" + + "Sure, sure, sir. Why, I leave him just now." + + "Good morning, sir," said another voice. + + "Hallo," said I, "is this another one?" + + "Yes, sir." + + "Well, what is your name?" + + "My name is Chumah, sir." + + "What! are you Chumah, the friend of Wekotani?" + + "Yes, sir." + + "And is the-Doctor well?" + + "Not very well, sir." + + "Where has he been so long?" + + "In Manyuema." + + "Now, you Susi, run, and tell the Doctor I am coming." + + "Yes, sir," and off he darted like a madman. + + But by this time we were within two hundred yards of the village, + and the multitude was getting denser, and almost preventing our + march. Flags and streamers were out; Arabs and Wangwana were + pushing their way through the natives in order to greet us, for + according to their account, we belonged to them. But the great + wonder of all was, "How did you come from Unyanyembe?" + + Soon Susi came running back, and asked me my name; he had told + the Doctor I was coming, but the Doctor was too surprised to believe + him, and when the Doctor asked him my name, Susi was rather staggered. + + But, during Susi's absence, the news had been conveyed to the + Doctor that it was surely a white man that was coming, whose guns + were firing, and whose flag could be seen; and the great Arab + magnates of Ujiji—Mohammed bin Sali, Sayd bin Majid, Abid bin + Suliman, Mohammed bin Gharib, and others—had gathered together + before the Doctor's house, and the Doctor had come out from his + veranda to discuss the matter and await my arrival. + + In the meantime, the head of the Expedition had halted, and the + kirangozi was out of the ranks, holding his flag aloft, and Selim + said to me, "I see the Doctor, sir. Oh, what an old man! He has + got a white beard." And I—what would I not have given for a bit + of friendly wilderness, where, unseen, I might vent my joy in some + mad freak, such as idiotically biting my hand; turning a somersault, + or slashing at trees, in order to allay those exciting feelings + that were well-nigh uncontrollable. My heart beats fast, but I must + not let my face betray my emotions, lest it shall detract from the + dignity of a white man appearing under such extraordinary circumstances. + + So I did that which I thought was most dignified. I pushed back + the crowds, and, passing from the rear, walked down a living avenue + of people, until I came in front of the semicircle of Arabs, before + which stood the "white man with the grey beard." + + As I advanced slowly towards him I noticed he was pale, that he + looked wearied and wan, that he had grey whiskers and moustache, + that he wore a bluish cloth cap with a faded gold band on a red + ground round it, and that he had on a red-sleeved waistcoat, and a + pair of grey tweed trousers. + + I would have run to him, only I was a coward in the presence of + such a mob—would have embraced him, but that I did not know how + he would receive me; so I did what moral cowardice and false pride + suggested was the best thing—walked deliberately to him, took off + my hat, and said: + + "DR. LIVINGSTONE, I PRESUME?" + + "Yes," said he, with a kind, cordial smile, lifting his cap slightly. + + I replaced my hat on my head, and he replaced his cap, and we + both grasped hands. I then said aloud: + + "I thank God, Doctor, I have been permitted to see you." + + He answered, "I feel thankful that I am here to welcome you." + + I turned to the Arabs, took off my hat to them in response to the + saluting chorus of "Yambos" I received, and the Doctor introduced + them to me by name. Then, oblivious of the crowds, oblivious of + the men who shared with me my dangers, we—Livingstone and I— + turned our faces towards his house. He pointed to the veranda, + or rather, mud platform, under the broad overhanging eaves; he + pointed to his own particular seat, which I saw his age and + experience in Africa had suggested, namely, a straw mat, with a + goatskin over it, and another skin nailed against the wall to + protect his back from contact with the cold mud. I protested + against taking this seat, which so much more befitted him than I, + but the Doctor would not yield: I must take it. + + We were seated—the Doctor and I—with our backs to the wall. + The Arabs took seats on our left. More than a thousand natives + were in our front, filling the whole square densely, indulging + their curiosity, and discussing the fact of two white men meeting + at Ujiji—one just come from Manyuema, in the west, the other from + Unyanyembe, in the east. + + Conversation began. What about? I declare I have forgotten. + Oh! we mutually asked questions of one another, such as + "How did you come here?" and "Where have you been all this long + time?—the world has believed you to be dead." Yes, that was the + way it began: but whatever the Doctor informed me, and that which + I communicated to him, I cannot correctly report, for I found myself + gazing at him, conning the wonderful figure and face of the man at + whose side I now sat in Central Africa. Every hair of his head + and beard, every wrinkle of his face, the wanness of his features, + and the slightly wearied look he wore, were all imparting + intelligence to me—the knowledge I craved for so much ever since + I heard the words, "Take what you want, but find Livingstone." + What I saw was deeply interesting intelligence to me, and unvarnished + truth. I was listening and reading at the same time. What did these + dumb witnesses relate to me? + + Oh, reader, had you been at my side on this day in Ujiji, how + eloquently could be told the nature of this man's work! Had you + been there but to see and hear! His lips gave me the details; lips + that never lie. I cannot repeat what he said; I was too much + engrossed to take my note-book out, and begin to stenograph his story. + He had so much to say that he began at the end, seemingly oblivious + of the fact that five or six years had to be accounted for. But his + account was oozing out; it was growing fast into grand proportions— + into a most marvellous history of deeds. + + The Arabs rose up, with a delicacy I approved, as if they intuitively + knew that we ought to be left to ourselves. I sent Bombay with them + to give them the news they also wanted so much to know about the + affairs at Unyanyembe. Sayd bin Majid was the father of the gallant + young man whom I saw at Masangi, and who fought with me at Zimbizo, + and who soon afterwards was killed by Mirambo's Ruga-Ruga in the + forest of Wilyankuru; and, knowing that I had been there, he + earnestly desired to hear the tale of the fight; but they had all + friends at Unyanyembe, and it was but natural that they should be + anxious to hear of what concerned them. + + After giving orders to Bombay and Asmani for the provisioning of + the men of the Expedition, I called "Kaif-Halek," or "How-do-ye-do," + and introduced him to Dr. Livingstone as one of the soldiers in + charge of certain goods left at Unyanyembe, whom I had compelled + to accompany me to Ujiji, that he might deliver in person to his + master the letter-bag with which he had been entrusted. This was + that famous letter-bag marked "Nov. 1st, 1870," which was now + delivered into the Doctor's hands 365 days after it left Zanzibar! + How long, I wonder, had it remained at Unyanyembe had I not been + despatched into Central Africa in search of the great traveller? + + The Doctor kept the letter-bag on his knee, then, presently, opened + it, looked at the letters contained there, and read one or two of + his children's letters, his face in the meanwhile lighting up. + + He asked me to tell him the news. "No, Doctor," said I, "read your + letters first, which I am sure you must be impatient to read." + + "Ah," said he, "I have waited years for letters, and I have been + taught patience. I can surely afford to wait a few hours longer. + No, tell me the general news: how is the world getting along? + + "You probably know much already. Do you know that the Suez Canal + is a fact—is opened, and a regular trade carried on between Europe + and India through it?" + + "I did not hear about the opening of it. Well, that is grand news! + What else?" + + Shortly I found myself enacting the part of an annual periodical + to him. There was no need of exaggeration of any penny-a-line + news, or of any sensationalism. The world had witnessed and + experienced much the last few years. The Pacific Railroad had been + completed (1869); Grant had been elected President of the United States; + Egypt had been flooded with savans: the Cretan rebellion had + terminated (1866-1868); a Spanish revolution had driven Isabella + from the throne of Spain, and a Regent had been appointed: General + Prim was assassinated; a Castelar had electrified Europe with his + advanced ideas upon the liberty of worship; Prussia had humbled Denmark, + and annexed Schleswig-Holstein <1864>, and her armies were now around + Paris; the "Man of Destiny" was a prisoner at Wilhelmshohe; + the Queen of Fashion and the Empress of the French was a fugitive; + and the child born in the purple had lost for ever the Imperial + crown intended for his head; the Napoleon dynasty was extinguished + by the Prussians, Bismarck and Von Moltke; and France, the proud + empire, was humbled to the dust. + + What could a man have exaggerated of these facts? What a budget + of news it was to one who had emerged from the depths of the + primeval forests of Manyuema! The reflection of the dazzling + light of civilisation was cast on him while Livingstone was thus + listening in wonder to one of the most exciting pages of history + ever repeated. How the puny deeds of barbarism paled before + these! Who could tell under what new phases of uneasy life Europe + was labouring even then, while we, two of her lonely children, + rehearsed the tale of her late woes and glories? More worthily, + perhaps, had the tongue of a lyric Demodocus recounted them; but, + in the absence of the poet, the newspaper correspondent performed + his part as well and truthfully as he could. + + Not long after the Arabs had departed, a dishful of hot hashed-meat + cakes was sent to us by Sayd bin Majid, and a curried chicken was + received from Mohammed bin Sali, and Moeni Kheri sent a dishful of + stewed goat-meat and rice; and thus presents of food came in + succession, and as fast as they were brought we set to. I had a + healthy, stubborn digestion—the exercise I had taken had put it in + prime order; but Livingstone—he had been complaining that he had + no appetite, that his stomach refused everything but a cup of tea + now and then—he ate also—ate like a vigorous, hungry man; and, + as he vied with me in demolishing the pancakes, he kept repeating, + "You have brought me new life. You have brought me new life." + + "Oh, by George!" I said, "I have forgotten something. Hasten, + Selim, and bring that bottle; you know which and bring me the silver + goblets. I brought this bottle on purpose for this event, which + I hoped would come to pass, though often it seemed useless to expect + it." + + Selim knew where the bottle was, and he soon returned with it—a + bottle of Sillery champagne; and, handing the Doctor a silver + goblet brimful of the exhilarating wine, and pouring a small + quantity into my own, I said, + + "Dr. Livingstone, to your very good health, sir." + + "And to yours!" he responded, smilingly. + + And the champagne I had treasured for this happy meeting was drunk + with hearty good wishes to each other. + + But we kept on talking and talking, and prepared food was being + brought to us all that afternoon; and we kept on eating each time + it was brought, until I had eaten even to repletion, and the Doctor + was obliged to confess that he had eaten enough. Still, Halimah, + the female cook of the Doctor's establishment, was in a state of + the greatest excitement. She had been protruding her head out of + the cookhouse to make sure that there were really two white men + sitting down in the veranda, when there used to be only one, who + would not, because he could not, eat anything; and she had been + considerably exercised in her mind about this fact. She was + afraid the Doctor did not properly appreciate her culinary + abilities; but now she was amazed at the extraordinary quantity + of food eaten, and she was in a state of delightful excitement. + We could hear her tongue rolling off a tremendous volume of + clatter to the wondering crowds who halted before the kitchen + to hear the current of news with which she edified them. Poor, + faithful soul! While we listened to the noise of her furious + gossip, the Doctor related her faithful services, and the + terrible anxiety she evinced when the guns first announced + the arrival of another white man in Ujiji; how she had been + flying about in a state cf the utmost excitement, from the kitchen + into his presence, and out again into the square, asking all sorts + of questions; how she was in despair at the scantiness of the + general larder and treasury of the strange household; how she + was anxious to make up for their poverty by a grand appearance— + to make up a sort of Barmecide feast to welcome the white man. + "Why," said she, "is he not one of us? Does he not bring plenty + of cloth and beads? Talk about the Arabs! Who are they that + they should be compared to white men? Arabs, indeed!" + + The Doctor and I conversed upon many things, especially upon his + own immediate troubles, and his disappointments, upon his arrival + in Ujiji, when told that all his goods had been sold, and he was + reduced to poverty. He had but twenty cloths or so left of the + stock he had deposited with the man called Sherif, the half-caste + drunken tailor, who was sent by the Consul in charge of the goods. + Besides which he had been suffering from an attack of dysentery, + and his condition was most deplorable. He was but little improved + on this day, though he had eaten well, and already began to feel + stronger and better. + + This day, like all others, though big with happiness to me, at last + was fading away. While sitting with our faces looking to the east, + as Livingstone had been sitting for days preceding my arrival, we + noted the dark shadows which crept up above the grove of palms + beyond the village, and above the rampart of mountains which we had + crossed that day, now looming through the fast approaching + darkness; and we listened, with our hearts full of gratitude to + the Great Giver of Good and Dispenser of all Happiness, to the + sonorous thunder of the surf of the Tanganika, and to the chorus + which the night insects sang. Hours passed, and we were still + sitting there with our minds busy upon the day's remarkable events, + when I remembered that the traveller had not yet read his letters. + + "Doctor," I said, "you had better read your letters. I will not + keep you up any longer." + + "Yes," he answered, "it is getting late; and I will go and read + my friends' letters. Good-night, and God bless you." + + "Good-night, my dear Doctor; and let me hope that your news will + be such as you desire." + + I have now related, by means of my Diary, "How I found Livingstone," + as recorded on the evening of that great day. I have been averse + to reduce it by process of excision and suppression, into a mere + cold narrative, because, by so doing, I would be unable to record + what feelings swayed each member of the Expedition as well as myself + during the days preceding the discovery of the lost traveller, and + more especially the day it was the good fortune of both Livingstone + and myself to clasp each other's hands in the strong friendship + which was born in that hour we thus strangely met. The aged + traveller, though cruelly belied, contrary to all previous expectation, + received me as a friend; and the cordial warmth with which he accepted + my greeting; the courtesy with which he tendered to me a shelter + in his own house; the simple candour of his conversation; graced + by unusual modesty of manner, and meekness of spirit, wrought in me + such a violent reaction in his favor, that when the parting + "good-night" was uttered, I felt a momentary vague fear lest the + fulness of joy which I experienced that evening would be diminished + by some envious fate, before the morrow's sun should rise above Ujiji. +</pre> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0012" id="link2HCH0012"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XII. — INTERCOURSE WITH LIVINGSTONE AT UJIJI + </h2> + <h3> + LIVINGSTONE'S OWN STORY OF HIS JOURNEYS, HIS TROUBLES, AND + DISAPPOINTMENTS. + </h3> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + "If there is love between us, inconceivably delicious, and + profitable will our intercourse be; if not, your time is lost, + and you will only annoy me. I shall seem to you stupid, and the + reputation I have false. All my good is magnetic, and I educate + not by lessons, but by going about my business."—Emerson's + 'Representative Men'. +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + I woke up early next morning with a sudden start. The room was + strange! It was a house, and not my tent! Ah, yes! I recollected + I had discovered Livingstone, and I was in his house. I listened, + that the knowledge dawning on me might be confirmed by the sound + of his voice. I heard nothing but the sullen roar of the surf. + + I lay quietly in bed. Bed! Yes, it was a primitive four-poster, + with the leaves of the palm-tree spread upon it instead of down, + and horsehair and my bearskin spread over this serving me in place + of linen. I began to put myself under rigid mental cross-examination, +and to an analyzation of my position. +</pre> + <p> + "What was I sent for?" + </p> + <p> + "To find Livingstone." + </p> + <p> + "Have you found him?" + </p> + <p> + "Yes, of course; am I not in his house? Whose compass is that hanging on a + peg there? Whose clothes, whose boots, are those? Who reads those + newspapers, those 'Saturday Reviews' and numbers of 'Punch' lying on the + floor?" + </p> + <p> + "Well, what are you going to do now?" + </p> + <p> + "I shall tell him this morning who sent me, and what brought me here. I + will then ask him to write a letter to Mr. Bennett, and to give what news + he can spare. I did not come here to rob him of his news. Sufficient for + me is it that I have found him. It is a complete success so far. But it + will be a greater one if he gives me letters for Mr. Bennett, and an + acknowledgment that he has seen me." + </p> + <p> + "Do you think he will do so?" + </p> + <p> + "Why not? I have come here to do him a service. He has no goods. I have. + He has no men with him. I have. If I do a friendly part by him, will he + not do a friendly part by me? What says the poet?— + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Nor hope to find + A friend, but who has found a friend in thee. + All like the purchase; few the price will pay + And this makes friends such wonders here below. +</pre> + <p> + I have paid the purchase, by coming so far to do him a service. But I + think, from what I have seen of him last night, that he is not such a + niggard and misanthrope as I was led to believe. He exhibited considerable + emotion, despite the monosyllabic greeting, when he shook my hand. If he + were a man to feel annoyance at any person coming after him, he would not + have received me as he did, nor would he ask me to live with him, but he + would have surlily refused to see me, and told me to mind my own business. + Neither does he mind my nationality; for 'here,' said he, 'Americans and + Englishmen are the same people. We speak the same language and have the + same ideas.' Just so, Doctor; I agree with you. Here at least, Americans + and Englishmen shall be brothers, and, whatever I can do for you, you may + command me freely." + </p> + <p> + I dressed myself quietly, intending to take a stroll along the Tanganika + before the Doctor should rise; opened the door, which creaked horribly on + its hinges, and walked out to the veranda. + </p> + <p> + "Halloa, Doctor!—you up already? I hope you have slept well?" + </p> + <p> + "Good-morning, Mr. Stanley! I am glad to see you. I hope you rested well. + I sat up late reading my letters. You have brought me good and bad news. + But sit down." He made a place for me by his side. "Yes, many of my + friends are dead. My eldest son has met with a sad accident—that is, + my boy Tom; my second son, Oswell, is at college studying medicine, and is + doing well I am told. Agnes, my eldest daughter, has been enjoying herself + in a yacht, with 'Sir Paraffine' Young and his family. Sir Roderick, also, + is well, and expresses a hope that he will soon see me. You have brought + me quite a budget." + </p> + <p> + The man was not an apparition, then, and yesterday's scenes were not the + result of a dream! and I gazed on him intently, for thus I was assured he + had not run away, which was the great fear that constantly haunted me as I + was journeying to Ujiji. + </p> + <p> + "Now, Doctor," said I, "you are, probably, wondering why I came here?" + </p> + <p> + "It is true," said he; "I have been wondering. I thought you, at first, an + emissary of the French Government, in the place of Lieutenant Le Saint, + who died a few miles above Gondokoro. I heard you had boats, plenty of + men, and stores, and I really believed you were some French officer, until + I saw the American flag; and, to tell you the truth, I was rather glad it + was so, because I could not have talked to him in French; and if he did + not know English, we had been a pretty pair of white men in Ujiji! I did + not like to ask you yesterday, because I thought it was none of my + business." + </p> + <p> + "Well," said I, laughing, "for your sake I am glad that I am an American, + and not a Frenchman, and that we can understand each other perfectly + without an interpreter. I see that the Arabs are wondering that you, an + Englishman, and I, an American, understand each other. We must take care + not to tell them that the English and Americans have fought, and that + there are 'Alabama' claims left unsettled, and that we have such people as + Fenians in America, who hate you. But, seriously, Doctor—now don't + be frightened when I tell you that I have come after—YOU!" + </p> + <p> + "After me?" + </p> + <p> + "Yes." + </p> + <p> + "How?" + </p> + <p> + "Well. You have heard of the 'New York Herald?'" + </p> + <p> + "Oh—who has not heard of that newspaper?" + </p> + <p> + "Without his father's knowledge or consent, Mr. James Gordon Bennett, son + of Mr. James Gordon Bennett, the proprietor of the 'Herald,' has + commissioned me to find you—to get whatever news of your discoveries + you like to give—and to assist you, if I can, with means." + </p> + <p> + "Young Mr. Bennett told you to come after me, to find me out, and help me! + It is no wonder, then, you praised Mr. Bennett so much last night." + </p> + <p> + "I know him—I am proud to say—to be just what I say he is. He + is an ardent, generous, and true man." + </p> + <p> + "Well, indeed! I am very much obliged to him; and it makes me feel proud + to think that you Americans think so much of me. You have just come in the + proper time; for I was beginning to think that I should have to beg from + the Arabs. Even they are in want of cloth, and there are but few beads in + Ujiji. That fellow Sherif has robbed me of all. I wish I could embody my + thanks to Mr. Bennett in suitable words; but if I fail to do so, do not, I + beg of you, believe me the less grateful." + </p> + <p> + "And now, Doctor, having disposed of this little affair, Ferajji shall + bring breakfast; if you have no objection." + </p> + <p> + "You have given me an appetite," he said. + </p> + <p> + "Halimah is my cook, but she never can tell the difference between tea and + coffee." + </p> + <p> + Ferajji, the cook, was ready as usual with excellent tea, and a dish of + smoking cakes; "dampers," as the Doctor called them. I never did care much + for this kind of a cake fried in a pan, but they were necessary to the + Doctor, who had nearly lost all his teeth from the hard fare of Lunda. He + had been compelled to subsist on green ears of Indian corn; there was no + meat in that district; and the effort to gnaw at the corn ears had + loosened all his teeth. I preferred the corn scones of Virginia, which, to + my mind, were the nearest approach to palatable bread obtainable in + Central Africa. + </p> + <p> + The Doctor said he had thought me a most luxurious and rich man, when he + saw my great bath-tub carried on the shoulders of one of my men; but he + thought me still more luxurious this morning, when my knives and forks, + and plates, and cups, saucers, silver spoons, and silver teapot were + brought forth shining and bright, spread on a rich Persian carpet, and + observed that I was well attended to by my yellow and ebon Mercuries. + </p> + <p> + This was the beginning of our life at Ujiji. I knew him not as a friend + before my arrival. He was only an object to me—a great item for a + daily newspaper, as much as other subjects in which the voracious + news-loving public delight in. I had gone over battlefields, witnessed + revolutions, civil wars, rebellions, emeutes and massacres; stood close to + the condemned murderer to record his last struggles and last sighs; but + never had I been called to record anything that moved me so much as this + man's woes and sufferings, his privations and disappointments, which now + were poured into my ear. Verily did I begin to perceive that "the Gods + above do with just eyes survey the affairs of men." I began to recognize + the hand of an overruling and kindly Providence. + </p> + <p> + The following are singular facts worthy for reflection. I was, + commissioned for the duty of discovering Livingstone sometime in October, + 1869. Mr. Bennett was ready with the money, and I was ready for the + journey. But, observe, reader, that I did not proceed directly upon the + search mission. I had many tasks to fulfil before proceeding with it, and + many thousand miles to travel over. Supposing that I had gone direct to + Zanzibar from Paris, seven or eight months afterwards, perhaps, I should + have found myself at Ujiji, but Livingstone would not have been found + there then; he was on the Lualaba; and I should have had to follow him on + his devious tracks through the primeval forests of Manyuema, and up along + the crooked course of the Lualaba for hundreds of miles. The time taken by + me in travelling up the Nile, back to Jerusalem, then to Constantinople, + Southern Russia, the Caucasus, and Persia, was employed by Livingstone in + fruitful discoveries west of the Tanganika. Again, consider that I arrived + at Unyanyembe in the latter part of June, and that owing to a war I was + delayed three months at Unyanyembe, leading a fretful, peevish and + impatient life. But while I was thus fretting myself, and being delayed by + a series of accidents, Livingstone was being forced back to Ujiji in the + same month. It took him from June to October to march to Ujiji. Now, in + September, I broke loose from the thraldom which accident had imposed on + me, and hurried southward to Ukonongo, then westward to Kawendi, then + northward to Uvinza, then westward to Ujiji, only about three weeks after + the Doctor's arrival, to find him resting under the veranda of his house + with his face turned eastward, the direction from which I was coming. Had + I gone direct from Paris on the search I might have lost him; had I been + enabled to have gone direct to Ujiji from Unyanyembe I might have lost + him. + </p> + <p> + The days came and went peacefully and happily, under the palms of Ujiji. + My companion was improving in health and spirits. Life had been brought + back to him; his fading vitality was restored, his enthusiasm for his work + was growing up again into a height that was compelling him to desire to be + up and doing. But what could he do, with five men and fifteen or twenty + cloths? + </p> + <p> + "Have you seen the northern head of the Tangannka, Doctor?" I asked one + day. + </p> + <p> + "No; I did try to go there, but the Wajiji were doing their best to fleece + me, as they did both Burton and Speke, and I had not a great deal of + cloth. If I had gone to the head of the Tanganika, I could not have gone, + to Manyuema. The central line of drainage was the most important, and that + is the Lualaba. Before this line the question whether there is a + connection between the Tanganika and the Albert N'Yanza sinks into + insignificance. The great line of drainage is the river flowing from + latitude 11 degrees south, which I followed for over seven degrees + northward. The Chambezi, the name given to its most southern extremity, + drains a large tract of country south of the southernmost source of the + Tanganika; it must, therefore, be the most important. I have not the least + doubt, myself, but that this lake is the Upper Tanganika, and the Albert + N'Yanza of Baker is the Lower Tanganika, which are connected by a river + flowing from the upper to the lower. This is my belief, based upon reports + of the Arabs, and a test I made of the flow with water-plants. But I + really never gave it much thought." + </p> + <p> + "Well, if I were you, Doctor, before leaving Ujiji, I should explore it, + and resolve the doubts upon the subject; lest, after you leave here, you + should not return by this way. The Royal Geographical Society attach much + importance to this supposed connection, and declare you are the only man + who can settle it. If I can be of any service to you, you may command me. + Though I did not come to Africa as an explorer, I have a good deal of + curiosity upon the subject, and should be willing to accompany you. I have + with me about twenty men who understand rowing we have plenty of guns, + cloth, and beads; and if we can get a canoe from the Arabs we can manage + the thing easily." + </p> + <p> + "Oh, we can get a canoe from Sayd bin Majid. This man has been very kind + to me, and if ever there was an Arab gentleman, he is one." + </p> + <p> + "Then it is settled, is it, that we go?" + </p> + <p> + "I am ready, whenever you are." + </p> + <p> + "I am at your command. Don't you hear my men call you the 'Great Master,' + and me the 'Little Master?' It would never do for the 'Little Master' to + command." + </p> + <p> + By this time Livingstone was becoming known to me. I defy any one to be in + his society long without thoroughly fathoming him, for in him there is no + guile, and what is apparent on the surface is the thing that is in him. I + simply write down my own opinion of the man as I have seen him, not as he + represents himself; as I know him to be, not as I have heard of him. I + lived with him from the 10th November, 1871, to the 14th March, 1872; + witnessed his conduct in the camp, and on the march, and my feelings for + him are those of unqualified admiration. The camp is the best place to + discover a man's weaknesses, where, if he is flighty or wrong-headed, he + is sure to develop his hobbies and weak side. I think it possible, + however, that Livingstone, with an unsuitable companion, might feel + annoyance. I know I should do so very readily, if a man's character was of + that oblique nature that it was an impossibility to travel in his company. + I have seen men, in whose company I felt nothing but a thraldom, which it + was a duty to my own self-respect to cast off as soon as possible; a + feeling of utter incompatibility, with whose nature mine could never + assimilate. But Livingstone was a character that I venerated, that called + forth all my enthusiasm, that evoked nothing but sincerest admiration. + </p> + <p> + Dr. Livingstone is about sixty years old, though after he was restored to + health he appeared more like a man who had not passed his fiftieth year. + His hair has a brownish colour yet, but is here and there streaked with + grey lines over the temples; his whiskers and moustache are very grey. He + shaves his chin daily. His eyes, which are hazel, are remarkably bright; + he has a sight keen as a hawk's. His teeth alone indicate the weakness of + age; the hard fare of Lunda has made havoc in their lines. His form, which + soon assumed a stoutish appearance, is a little over the ordinary height + with the slightest possible bow in the shoulders. When walking he has a + firm but heavy tread, like that of an overworked or fatigued man. He is + accustomed to wear a naval cap with a semicircular peak, by which he has + been identified throughout Africa. His dress, when first I saw him, + exhibited traces of patching and repairing, but was scrupulously clean. + </p> + <p> + I was led to believe that Livingstone possessed a splenetic, misanthropic + temper; some have said that he is garrulous, that he is demented; that he + has utterly changed from the David Livingstone whom people knew as the + reverend missionary; that he takes no notes or observations but such as + those which no other person could read but himself; and it was reported, + before I proceeded to Central Africa, that he was married to an African + princess. + </p> + <p> + I respectfully beg to differ with all and each of the above statements. I + grant he is not an angel, but he approaches to that being as near as the + nature of a living man will allow. I never saw any spleen or misanthropy + in him—as for being garrulous, Dr. Livingstone is quite the reverse: + he is reserved, if anything; and to the man who says Dr. Livingstone is + changed, all I can say is, that he never could have known him, for it is + notorious that the Doctor has a fund of quiet humour, which he exhibits at + all times whenever he is among friends. I must also beg leave to correct + the gentleman who informed me that Livingstone takes no notes or + observations. The huge Letts's Diary which I carried home to his daughter + is full of notes, and there are no less than a score of sheets within it + filled with observations which he took during the last trip he made to + Manyuema alone; and in the middle of the book there is sheet after sheet, + column after column, carefully written, of figures alone. A large letter + which I received from him has been sent to Sir Thomas MacLear, and this + contains nothing but observations. During the four months I was with him, + I noticed him every evening making most careful notes; and a large tin box + that he has with him contains numbers of field note-books, the contents of + which I dare say will see the light some time. His maps also evince great + care and industry. As to the report of his African marriage, it is + unnecessary to say more than that it is untrue, and it is utterly beneath + a gentleman to hint at such a thing in connection with the name of David + Livingstone. + </p> + <p> + There is a good-natured abandon about Livingstone which was not lost on + me. Whenever he began to laugh, there was a contagion about it, that + compelled me to imitate him. It was such a laugh as Herr Teufelsdrockh's—a + laugh of the whole man from head to heel. If he told a story, he related + it in such a way as to convince one of its truthfulness; his face was so + lit up by the sly fun it contained, that I was sure the story was worth + relating, and worth listening to. + </p> + <p> + The wan features which had shocked me at first meeting, the heavy step + which told of age and hard travel, the grey beard and bowed shoulders, + belied the man. Underneath that well-worn exterior lay an endless fund of + high spirits and inexhaustible humour; that rugged frame of his enclosed a + young and most exuberant soul. Every day I heard innumerable jokes and + pleasant anecdotes; interesting hunting stories, in which his friends + Oswell, Webb, Vardon, and Gorden Cumming were almost always the chief + actors. I was not sure, at first, but this joviality, humour, and abundant + animal spirits were the result of a joyous hysteria; but as I found they + continued while I was with him, I am obliged to think them natural. + </p> + <p> + Another thing which specially attracted my attention was his wonderfully + retentive memory. If we remember the many years he has spent in Africa, + deprived of books, we may well think it an uncommon memory that can recite + whole poems from Byron, Burns, Tennyson, Longfellow, Whittier, and Lowell. + The reason of this may be found, perhaps, in the fact, that he has lived + all his life almost, we may say, within himself. Zimmerman, a great + student of human nature, says on this subject "The unencumbered mind + recalls all that it has read, all that pleased the eye, and delighted the + ear; and reflecting on every idea which either observation, or experience, + or discourse has produced, gains new information by every reflection. The + intellect contemplates all the former scenes of life; views by + anticipation those that are yet to come; and blends all ideas of past and + future in the actual enjoyment of the present moment." He has lived in a + world which revolved inwardly, out of which he seldom awoke except to + attend to the immediate practical necessities of himself and people; then + relapsed again into the same happy inner world, which he must have peopled + with his own friends, relations, acquaintances, familiar readings, ideas, + and associations; so that wherever he might be, or by whatsoever he was + surrounded, his own world always possessed more attractions to his + cultured mind than were yielded by external circumstances. + </p> + <p> + The study of Dr. Livingstone would not be complete if we did not take the + religious side of his character into consideration. His religion is not of + the theoretical kind, but it is a constant, earnest, sincere practice. It + is neither demonstrative nor loud, but manifests itself in a quiet, + practical way, and is always at work. It is not aggressive, which + sometimes is troublesome, if not impertinent. In him, religion exhibits + its loveliest features; it governs his conduct not only towards his + servants, but towards the natives, the bigoted Mohammedans, and all who + come in contact with him. Without it, Livingstone, with his ardent + temperament, his enthusiasm, his high spirit and courage, must have become + uncompanionable, and a hard master. Religion has tamed him, and made him a + Christian gentleman: the crude and wilful have been refined and subdued; + religion has made him the most companionable of men and indulgent of + masters—a man whose society is pleasurable. + </p> + <p> + In Livingstone I have seen many amiable traits. His gentleness never + forsakes him; his hopefulness never deserts him. No harassing anxieties, + distraction of mind, long separation from home and kindred, can make him + complain. He thinks "all will come out right at last;" he has such faith + in the goodness of Providence. The sport of adverse circumstances, the + plaything of the miserable beings sent to him from Zanzibar—he has + been baffled and worried, even almost to the grave, yet he will not desert + the charge imposed upon him by his friend, Sir Roderick Murchison. To the + stern dictates of duty, alone, has he sacrificed his home and ease, the + pleasures, refinements, and luxuries of civilized life. His is the Spartan + heroism, the inflexibility of the Roman, the enduring resolution of the + Anglo-Saxon—never to relinquish his work, though his heart yearns + for home; never to surrender his obligations until he can write Finis to + his work. + </p> + <p> + But you may take any point in Dr. Livingstone's character, and analyse it + carefully, and I would challenge any man to find a fault in it. He is + sensitive, I know; but so is any man of a high mind and generous nature. + He is sensitive on the point of being doubted or being criticised. An + extreme love of truth is one of his strongest characteristics, which + proves him to be a man of strictest principles, and conscientious + scruples; being such, he is naturally sensitive, and shrinks from any + attacks on the integrity of his observations, and the accuracy of his + reports. He is conscious of having laboured in the course of geography and + science with zeal and industry, to have been painstaking, and as exact as + circumstances would allow. Ordinary critics seldom take into consideration + circumstances, but, utterly regardless of the labor expended in obtaining + the least amount of geographical information in a new land, environed by + inconceivable dangers and difficulties, such as Central Africa presents, + they seem to take delight in rending to tatters, and reducing to nil, the + fruits of long years of labor, by sharply-pointed shafts of ridicule and + sneers. + </p> + <p> + Livingstone no doubt may be mistaken in some of his conclusions about + certain points in the geography of Central Africa, but he is not so + dogmatic and positive a man as to refuse conviction. He certainly demands, + when arguments in contra are used in opposition to him, higher authority + than abstract theory. His whole life is a testimony against its + unreliability, and his entire labor of years were in vain if theory can be + taken in evidence against personal observation and patient investigation. + </p> + <p> + The reluctance he manifests to entertain suppositions, possibilities + regarding the nature, form, configuration of concrete immutable matter + like the earth, arises from the fact, that a man who commits himself to + theories about such an untheoretical subject as Central Africa is deterred + from bestirring himself to prove them by the test of exploration. His + opinion of such a man is, that he unfits himself for his duty, that he is + very likely to become a slave to theory—a voluptuous fancy, which + would master him. + </p> + <p> + It is his firm belief, that a man who rests his sole knowledge of the + geography of Africa on theory, deserves to be discredited. It has been the + fear of being discredited and criticised and so made to appear before the + world as a man who spent so many valuable years in Africa for the sake of + burdening the geographical mind with theory that has detained him so long + in Africa, doing his utmost to test the value of the main theory which + clung to him, and would cling to him until he proved or disproved it. + </p> + <p> + This main theory is his belief that in the broad and mighty Lualaba he has + discovered the head waters of the Nile. His grounds for believing this are + of such nature and weight as to compel him to despise the warning that + years are advancing on him, and his former iron constitution is failing. + He believes his speculations on this point will be verified; he believes + he is strong enough to pursue his explorations until he can return to his + country, with the announcement that the Lualaba is none other than the + Nile. + </p> + <p> + On discovering that the insignificant stream called the Chambezi, which + rises between 10 degrees S. and 12 degrees S., flowed westerly, and then + northerly through several lakes, now under the names of the Chambezi, then + as the Luapula, and then as the Lualaba, and that it still continued its + flow towards the north for over 7 degrees, Livingstone became firmly of + the opinion that the river whose current he followed was the Egyptian + Nile. Failing at lat. 4 degrees S. to pursue his explorations further + without additional supplies, he determined to return to Ujiji to obtain + them. + </p> + <p> + And now, having obtained them, he intends to return to the point where he + left off work. He means to follow that great river until it is firmly + established what name shall eventually be given the noble water-way whose + course he has followed through so many sick toilings and difficulties. To + all entreaties to come home, to all the glowing temptations which home and + innumerable friends offer, he returns the determined answer:— + </p> + <p> + "No; not until my work is ended." + </p> + <p> + I have often heard our servants discuss our respective merits. "Your + master," say my servants to Livingstone's, "is a good man—a very + good man; he does not beat you, for he has a kind heart; but ours—oh! + he is sharp—hot as fire"—"mkali sana, kana moto." From being + hated and thwarted in every possible way by the Arabs and half-castes upon + first arrival in Ujiji, he has, through his uniform kindness and mild, + pleasant temper, won all hearts. I observed that universal respect was + paid to him. Even the Mohammedans never passed his house without calling + to pay their compliments, and to say, "The blessing of God rest on you." + Each Sunday morning he gathers his little flock around him, and reads + prayers and a chapter from the Bible, in a natural, unaffected, and + sincere tone; and afterwards delivers a short address in the Kisawahili + language, about the subject read to them, which is listened to with + interest and attention. + </p> + <p> + There is another point in Livingstone's character about which readers of + his books, and students of his travels, would like to know, and that is + his ability to withstand the dreadful climate of Central Africa, and the + consistent energy with which he follows up his explorations. His + consistent energy is native to him and to his race. He is a very fine + example of the perseverance, doggedness, and tenacity which characterise + the Anglo-Saxon spirit; but his ability to withstand the climate is due + not only to the happy constitution with which he was born, but to the + strictly temperate life he has ever led. A drunkard and a man of vicious + habits could never have withstood the climate of Central Africa. + </p> + <p> + The second day after my arrival in Ujiji I asked the Doctor if he did not + feel a desire, sometimes, to visit his country, and take a little rest + after his six years' explorations; and the answer he gave me fully reveals + the man. Said he: + </p> + <p> + "I should like very much to go home and see my children once again, but I + cannot bring my heart to abandon the task I have undertaken, when it is so + nearly completed. It only requires six or seven months more to trace the + true source that I have discovered with Petherick's branch of the White + Nile, or with the Albert N'Yanza of Sir Samuel Baker, which is the lake + called by the natives 'Chowambe.' Why should I go home before my task is + ended, to have to come back again to do what I can very well do now?" + </p> + <p> + "And why?" I asked, "did you come so far back without finishing the task + which you say you have got to do?" + </p> + <p> + "Simply because I was forced. My men would not budge a step forward. They + mutinied, and formed a secret resolution—if I still insisted upon + going on—to raise a disturbance in the country, and after they had + effected it to abandon me; in which case I should have been killed. It was + dangerous to go any further. I had explored six hundred miles of the + watershed, had traced all the principal streams which discharge their + waters into the central line of drainage, but when about starting to + explore the last hundred miles the hearts of my people failed them, and + they set about frustrating me in every possible way. Now, having returned + seven hundred miles to get a new supply of stores, and another escort, I + find myself destitute of even the means to live but for a few weeks, and + sick in mind and body." + </p> + <p> + Here I may pause to ask any brave man how he would have comported himself + in such a crisis. Many would have been in exceeding hurry to get home to + tell the news of the continued explorations and discoveries, and to + relieve the anxiety of the sorrowing family and friends awaiting their + return. Enough surely had been accomplished towards the solution of the + problem that had exercised the minds of his scientific associates of the + Royal Geograpical Society. It was no negative exploration, it was hard, + earnest labor of years, self-abnegation, enduring patience, and exalted + fortitude, such as ordinary men fail to exhibit. + </p> + <p> + Suppose Livingstone had hurried to the coast after he had discovered Lake + Bangweolo, to tell the news to the geographical world; then had returned + to discover Moero, and run away again; then went back once more only to + discover Kamolondo, and to race back again. This would not be in + accordance with Livingstone's character. He must not only discover the + Chambezi, Lake Bangweolo, Luapula River, Lake Moero, Lualaba River, and + Lake Kamolondo, but he must still tirelessly urge his steps forward to put + the final completion to the grand lacustrine river system. Had he followed + the example of ordinary explorers, he would have been running backwards + and forwards to tell the news, instead of exploring; and he might have + been able to write a volume upon the discovery of each lake, and earn much + money thereby. They are no few months' explorations that form the contents + of his books. His 'Missionary Travels' embraces a period of sixteen years; + his book on the Zambezi, five years; and if the great traveller lives to + come home, his third book, the grandest of all, must contain the records + of eight or nine years. + </p> + <p> + It is a principle with Livingstone to do well what he undertakes to do; + and in the consciousness that he is doing it, despite the yearning for his + home which is sometimes overpowering, he finds, to a certain extent, + contentment, if not happiness. To men differently constituted, a long + residence amongst the savages of Africa would be contemplated with horror, + yet Livingstone's mind can find pleasure and food for philosophic studies. + The wonders of primeval nature, the great forests and sublime mountains, + the perennial streams and sources of the great lakes, the marvels of the + earth, the splendors of the tropic sky by day and by night—all + terrestrial and celestial phenomena are manna to a man of such + self-abnegation and devoted philanthropic spirit. He can be charmed with + the primitive simplicity of Ethiop's dusky children, with whom he has + spent so many years of his life; he has a sturdy faith in their + capabilities; sees virtue in them where others see nothing but savagery; + and wherever he has gone among them, he has sought to elevate a people + that were apparently forgotten of God and Christian man. + </p> + <p> + One night I took out my note-book, and prepared to take down from his own + lips what he had to say about his travels; and unhesitatingly he related + his experiences, of which the following is a summary: + </p> + <p> + Dr. David Livingstone left the Island of Zanzibar in March, 1866. On the + 7th of the following month he departed from Mikindany Bay for the + interior, with an expedition consisting of twelve Sepoys from Bombay, nine + men from Johanna, of the Comoro Islands, seven liberated slaves, and two + Zambezi men, taking them as an experiment; six camels, three buffaloes, + two mules, and three donkeys. He had thus thirty men with him, twelve of + whom, viz., the Sepoys, were to act as guards for the Expedition. They + were mostly armed with the Enfield rifles presented to the Doctor by the + Bombay Government. The baggage of the expedition consisted of ten bales of + cloth and two bags of beads, which were to serve as the currency by which + they would be enabled to purchase the necessaries of life in the countries + the Doctor intended to visit. Besides the cumbrous moneys, they carried + several boxes of instruments, such as chronometers, air thermometers, + sextant, and artificial horizon, boxes containing clothes, medicines, and + personal necessaries. The expedition travelled up the left bank of the + Rovuma River, a route as full of difficulties as any that could be chosen. + For miles Livingstone and his party had to cut their way with their axes + through the dense and almost impenetrable jungles which lined the river's + banks. The road was a mere footpath, leading in the most erratic fashion + into and through the dense vegetation, seeking the easiest outlet from it + without any regard to the course it ran. The pagazis were able to proceed + easily enough; but the camels, on account of their enormous height, could + not advance a step without the axes of the party clearing the way. These + tools of foresters were almost always required; but the advance of the + expedition was often retarded by the unwillingness of the Sepoys and + Johanna men to work. + </p> + <p> + Soon after the departure of the expedition from the coast, the murmurings + and complaints of these men began, and upon every occasion and at every + opportunity they evinced a decided hostility to an advance. In order to + prevent the progress of the Doctor, and in hopes that it would compel him + to return to the coast, these men so cruelly treated the animals that + before long there was not one left alive. But as this scheme failed, they + set about instigating the natives against the white men, whom they accused + most wantonly of strange practices. As this plan was most likely to + succeed, and as it was dangerous to have such men with him, the Doctor + arrived at the conclusion that it was best to discharge them, and + accordingly sent the Sepoys back to the coast; but not without having + first furnished them with the means of subsistence on their journey to the + coast. These men were such a disreputable set that the natives spoke of + them as the Doctor's slaves. One of their worst sins was the custom of + giving their guns and ammunition to carry to the first woman or boy they + met, whom they impressed for that purpose by such threats or promises as + they were totally unable to perform, and unwarranted in making. An hour's + marching was sufficient to fatigue them, after which they lay down on the + road to bewail their hard fate, and concoct new schemes to frustrate their + leader's purposes. Towards night they generally made their appearance at + the camping-ground with the looks of half-dead men. Such men naturally + made but a poor escort; for, had the party been attacked by a wandering + tribe of natives of any strength, the Doctor could have made no defence, + and no other alternative would have been left to him but to surrender and + be ruined. + </p> + <p> + The Doctor and his little party arrived on the 18th July, 1866, at a + village belonging to a chief of the Wahiyou, situate eight days' march + south of the Rovuma, and overlooking the watershed of the Lake Nyassa. The + territory lying between the Rovuma River and this Wahiyou village was an + uninhabited wilderness, during the transit of which Livingstone and his + expedition suffered considerably from hunger and desertion of men. + </p> + <p> + Early in August, 1866, the Doctor came to the country of Mponda, a chief + who dwelt near the Lake Nyassa. On the road thither, two of the liberated + slaves deserted him. Here also, Wekotani, a protege of the Doctor, + insisted upon his discharge, alleging as an excuse—an excuse which + the Doctor subsequently found to be untrue—that he had found his + brother. He also stated that his family lived on the east side of the + Nyassa Lake. He further stated that Mponda's favourite wife was his + sister. Perceiving that Wekotani was unwilling to go with him further, the + Doctor took him to Mponda, who now saw and heard of him for the first + time, and, having furnished the ungrateful boy with enough cloth and beads + to keep him until his "big brother" should call for him, left him with the + chief, after first assuring himself that he would receive honourable + treatment from him. The Doctor also gave Wekotanti writing-paper—as + he could read and write, being accomplishments acquired at Bombay, where + he had been put to school—so that, should he at any time feel + disposed, he might write to his English friends, or to himself. The Doctor + further enjoined him not to join in any of the slave raids usually made by + his countrymen, the men of Nyassa, on their neighbours. Upon finding that + his application for a discharge was successful, Wekotani endeavoured to + induce Chumah, another protege of the Doctor's, and a companion, or chum, + of Wekotani, to leave the Doctor's service and proceed with him, + promising, as a bribe, a wife and plenty of pombe from his "big brother." + Chumah, upon referring the matter to the Doctor, was advised not to go, as + he (the Doctor) strongly suspected that Wekotani wanted only to make him + his slave. Chumah wisely withdrew from his tempter. From Mponda's, the + Doctor proceeded to the heel of the Nyassa, to the village of a Babisa + chief, who required medicine for a skin disease. With his usual kindness, + he stayed at this chief's village to treat his malady. + </p> + <p> + While here, a half-caste Arab arrived from the western shore of the lake, + and reported that he had been plundered by a band of Mazitu, at a place + which the Doctor and Musa, chief of the Johanna men, were very well aware + was at least 150 miles north-north-west of where they were then stopping. + Musa, however, for his own reasons—which will appear presently—eagerly + listened to the Arab's tale, and gave full credence to it. Having well + digested its horrible details, he came to the Doctor to give him the full + benefit of what he had heard with such willing ears. The traveller + patiently listened to the narrative, which lost nothing of its portentous + significance through Musa's relation, and then asked Musa if he believed + it. "Yes," answered Musa, readily; "he tell me true, true. I ask him good, + and he tell me true, true." The Doctor, however, said he did not believe + it, for the Mazitu would not have been satisfied with merely plundering a + man, they would have murdered him; but suggested, in order to allay the + fears of his Moslem subordinate, that they should both proceed to the + chief with whom they were staying, who, being a sensible man, would be + able to advise them as to the probability or improbability of the tale + being correct. Together, they proceeded to the Babisa chief, who, when he + had heard the Arab's story, unhesitatingly denounced the Arab as a liar, + and his story without the least foundation in fact; giving as a reason + that, if the Mazitu had been lately in that vicinity, he should have heard + of it soon enough. + </p> + <p> + But Musa broke out with "No, no, Doctor; no, no, no; I no want to go to + Mazitu. I no want Mazitu to kill me. I want to see my father, my mother, + my child, in Johanna. I want no Mazitu." These are Musa's words <i>ipsissima + verba</i>. + </p> + <p> + To which the Doctor replied, "I don't want the Mazitu to kill me either; + but, as you are afraid of them, I promise to go straight west until we get + far past the beat of the Mazitu." + </p> + <p> + Musa was not satisfied, but kept moaning and sorrowing, saying, "If we had + two hundred guns with us I would go; but our small party of men they will + attack by night, and kill all." + </p> + <p> + The Doctor repeated his promise, "But I will not go near them; I will go + west." + </p> + <p> + As soon as he turned his face westward, Musa and the Johanna men ran away + in a body. + </p> + <p> + The Doctor says, in commenting upon Musa's conduct, that he felt strongly + tempted to shoot Musa and another ringleader, but was, nevertheless, glad + that he did not soil his hands with their vile blood. A day or two + afterwards, another of his men—Simon Price by name—came to the + Doctor with the same tale about the Mazitu, but, compelled by the scant + number of his people to repress all such tendencies to desertion and + faint-heartedness, the Doctor silenced him at once, and sternly forbade + him to utter the name of the Mazitu any more. + </p> + <p> + Had the natives not assisted him, he must have despaired of ever being + able to penetrate the wild and unexplored interior which he was now about + to tread. "Fortunately," as the Doctor says with unction, "I was in a + country now, after leaving the shores of Nyassa, which the foot of the + slave-trader has not trod; it was a new and virgin land, and of course, as + I have always found in such cases, the natives were really good and + hospitable, and for very small portions of cloth my baggage was conveyed + from village to village by them." In many other ways the traveller, in his + extremity, was kindly treated by the yet unsophisticated and innocent + natives. + </p> + <p> + On leaving this hospitable region in the early part of December, 1866, the + Doctor entered a country where the Mazitu had exercised their customary + marauding propensities. The land was swept clean of provisions and cattle, + and the people had emigrated to other countries, beyond the bounds of + those ferocious plunderers. Again the Expedition was besieged by pinching + hunger from which they suffered; they had recourse to the wild fruits + which some parts of the country furnished. At intervals the condition of + the hard-pressed band was made worse by the heartless desertion of some of + its members, who more than once departed with the Doctor's personal kit, + changes of clothes, linen, &c. With more or less misfortunes + constantly dogging his footsteps, he traversed in safety the countries of + the Babisa, Bobemba, Barungu, Ba-ulungu, and Lunda. + </p> + <p> + In the country of Lunda lives the famous Cazembe, who was first made known + to Europeans by Dr. Lacerda, the Portuguese traveller. Cazembe is a most + intelligent prince; he is a tall, stalwart man, who wears a peculiar kind + of dress, made of crimson print, in the form of a prodigious kilt. In this + state dress, King Cazembe received Dr. Livingstone, surrounded by his + chiefs and body-guards. A chief, who had been deputed by the King and + elders to discover all about the white man, then stood up before the + assembly, and in a loud voice gave the result of the inquiry he had + instituted. He had heard that the white man had come to look for waters, + for rivers, and seas; though he could not understand what the white man + could want with such things, he had no doubt that the object was good. + Then Cazembe asked what the Doctor proposed doing, and where he thought of + going. The Doctor replied that he had thought of proceeding south, as he + had heard of lakes and rivers being in that direction. Cazembe asked, + "What can you want to go there for? The water is close here. There is + plenty of large water in this neighbourhood." Before breaking up the + assembly, Cazembe gave orders to let the white man go where he would + through his country undisturbed and unmolested. He was the first + Englishman he had seen, he said, and he liked him. + </p> + <p> + Shortly after his introduction to the King, the Queen entered the large + house, surrounded by a body-guard of Amazons with spears. She was a fine, + tall, handsome young woman, and evidently thought she was about to make an + impression upon the rustic white man, for she had clothed herself after a + most royal fashion, and was armed with a ponderous spear. But her + appearance—so different from what the Doctor had imagined—caused + him to laugh, which entirely spoiled the effect intended; for the laugh of + the Doctor was so contagious, that she herself was the first to imitate + it, and the Amazons, courtier-like, followed suit. Much disconcerted by + this, the Queen ran back, followed by her obedient damsels—a retreat + most undignified and unqueenlike, compared with her majestic advent into + the Doctor's presence. But Livingstone will have much to say about his + reception at this court, and about this interesting King and Queen; and + who can so well relate the scenes he witnessed, and which belong + exclusively to him, as he himself? + </p> + <p> + Soon after his arrival in the country of Lunda, or Londa, and before he + had entered the district ruled over by Cazembe, he had crossed a river + called the Chambezi, which was quite an important stream. The similarity + of the name with that large and noble river south, which will be for ever + connected with his name, misled Livingstone at that time, and he, + accordingly, did not pay to it the attention it deserved, believing that + the Chambezi was but the head-waters of the Zambezi, and consequently had + no bearing or connection with the sources of the river of Egypt, of which + he was in search. His fault was in relying too implicitly upon the + correctness of Portuguese information. This error it cost him many months + of tedious labour and travel to rectify. + </p> + <p> + From the beginning of 1867—the time of his arrival at Cazembe's—till + the middle of March, 1869—the time of his arrival at Ujiji—he + was mostly engaged in correcting the errors and misrepresentations of the + Portuguese travellers. The Portuguese, in speaking of the River Chambezi, + invariably spoke of it as "our own Zambezi,"—that is, the Zambezi + which flows through the Portuguese possessions of the Mozambique. "In + going to Cazembe from Nyassa," said they, "you will cross our own + Zambezi." Such positive and reiterated information—given not only + orally, but in their books and maps—was naturally confusing. When + the Doctor perceived that what he saw and what they described were at + variance, out of a sincere wish to be correct, and lest he might have been + mistaken himself, he started to retravel the ground he had travelled + before. Over and over again he traversed the several countries watered by + the several rivers of the complicated water system, like an uneasy spirit. + Over and over again he asked the same questions from the different peoples + he met, until he was obliged to desist, lest they might say, "The man is + mad; he has got water on the brain!" + </p> + <p> + But his travels and tedious labours in Lunda and the adjacent countries + have established beyond doubt—first, that the Chambezi is a totally + distinct river from the Zambezi of the Portuguese; and, secondly, that the + Chambezi, starting from about latitude 11 degrees south, is no other than + the most southerly feeder of the great Nile; thus giving that famous river + a length of over 2,000 miles of direct latitude; making it, second to the + Mississippi, the longest river in the world. The real and true name of the + Zambezi is Dombazi. When Lacerda and his Portuguese successors, coming to + Cazembe, crossed the Chambezi, and heard its name, they very naturally set + it down as "our own Zambezi," and, without further inquiry, sketched it as + running in that direction. + </p> + <p> + During his researches in that region, so pregnant in discoveries, + Livingstone came to a lake lying north-east of Cazembe, which the natives + call Liemba, from the country of that name which bordered it on the east + and south. In tracing the lake north, he found it to be none other than + the Tanganika, or the south-eastern extremity of it, which looks, on the + Doctor's map, very much like an outline of Italy. The latitude of the + southern end of this great body of water is about 8 degrees 42 minutes + south, which thus gives it a length, from north to south, of 360 + geographical miles. From the southern extremity of the Tanganika he + crossed Marungu, and came in sight of Lake Moero. Tracing this lake, which + is about sixty miles in length, to its southern head, he found a river, + called the Luapula, entering it from that direction. Following the Luapula + south, he found it issue from the large lake of Bangweolo, which is nearly + as large in superficial area as the Tanganika. In exploring for the waters + which discharged themselves into the lake, he found that by far the most + important of these feeders was the Chambezi; so that he had thus traced + the Chambezi from its source to Lake Bangweolo, and the issue from its + northern head, under the name of Luapula, and found it enter Lake Moero. + Again he returned to Cazembe's, well satisfied that the river running + north through three degrees of latitude could not be the river running + south under the name of Zambezi, though there might be a remarkable + resemblance in their names. + </p> + <p> + At Cazembe's he found an old white-bearded half-caste named Mohammed bin + Sali, who was kept as a kind of prisoner at large by the King because of + certain suspicious circumstances attending his advent and stay in the + country. Through Livingstone's influence Mohammed bin Sali obtained his + release. On the road to Ujiji he had bitter cause to regret having exerted + himself in the half-caste's behalf. He turned out to be a most ungrateful + wretch, who poisoned the minds of the Doctor's few followers, and + ingratiated himself with them by selling the favours of his concubines to + them, by which he reduced them to a kind of bondage under him. The Doctor + was deserted by all but two, even faithful Susi and Chumah deserted him + for the service of Mohammed bin Sali. But they soon repented, and returned + to their allegiance. From the day he had the vile old man in his company + manifold and bitter misfortunes followed the Doctor up to his arrival at + Ujiji in March, 1869. + </p> + <p> + From the date of his arrival until the end of June, 1869, he remained at + Ujiji, whence he dated those letters which, though the outside world still + doubted his being alive, satisfied the minds of the Royal Geographical + people, and his intimate friends, that he still existed, and that Musa'a + tale was the false though ingenious fabrication of a cowardly deserter. It + was during this time that the thought occurred to him of sailing around + the Lake Tanganika, but the Arabs and natives were so bent upon fleecing + him that, had he undertaken it, the remainder or his goods would not have + enabled him to explore the central line of drainage, the initial point of + which he found far south of Cazembe's in about latitude 11 degrees, in the + river called Chambezi. + </p> + <p> + In the days when tired Captain Burton was resting in Ujiji, after his + march from the coast near Zanzibar, the land to which Livingstone, on his + departure from Ujiji, bent his steps was unknown to the Arabs save by + vague report. Messrs. Burton and Speke never heard of it, it seems. Speke, + who was the geographer of Burton's Expedition, heard of a place called + Urua, which he placed on his map, according to the general direction + indicated by the Arabs; but the most enterprising of the Arabs, in their + search after ivory, only touched the frontiers of Rua, as, the natives and + Livingstone call it; for Rua is an immense country, with a length of six + degrees of latitude, and as yet an undefined breadth from east to west. + </p> + <p> + At the end of June, 1869, Livingstone quitted Ujiji and crossed over to + Uguhha, on the western shore, for his last and greatest series of + explorations; the result of which was the further discovery of a lake of + considerable magnitude connected with Moero by the large river called the + Lualaba, and which was a continuation of the chain of lakes he had + previously discovered. + </p> + <p> + From the port of Uguhha he set off, in company with a body of traders, in + an almost direct westerly course, for the country of Urua. Fifteen days' + march brought them to Bambarre, the first important ivory depot in + Manyema, or, as the natives pronounce it, Manyuema. For nearly six months + he was detained at Bambarre from ulcers in the feet, which discharged + bloody ichor as soon as he set them on the ground. When recovered, he set + off in a northerly direction, and after several days came to a broad + lacustrine river, called the Lualaba, flowing northward and westward, and + in some places southward, in a most confusing way. The river was from one + to three miles broad. By exceeding pertinacity he contrived to follow its + erratic course, until he saw the Lualaba enter the narrow, long lake of + Kamolondo, in about latitude 6 degrees 30 minutes. Retracing this to the + south, he came to the point where he had seen the Luapula enter Lake + Moero. + </p> + <p> + One feels quite enthusiastic when listening to Livingstone's description + of the beauties of Moero scenery. Pent in on all sides by high mountains, + clothed to the edges with the rich vegetation of the tropics, the Moero + discharges its superfluous waters through a deep rent in the bosom of the + mountains. The impetuous and grand river roars through the chasm with the + thunder of a cataract, but soon after leaving its confined and deep bed it + expands into the calm and broad Lualaba, stretching over miles of ground. + After making great bends west and south-west, and then curving northward, + it enters Kamolondo. By the natives it is called the Lualaba, but the + Doctor, in order to distinguish it from other rivers of the same name, has + given it the name of "Webb's River," after Mr. Webb, the wealthy + proprietor of Newstead Abbey, whom the Doctor distinguishes as one of his + oldest and most consistent friends. Away to the south-west from Kamolondo + is another large lake, which discharges its waters by the important River + Loeki, or Lomami, into the great Lualaba. To this lake, known as Chebungo + by the natives, Dr. Livingstone has given the name of "Lincoln," to be + hereafter distinguished on maps and in books as Lake Lincoln, in memory of + Abraham Lincoln, our murdered President. This was done from the vivid + impression produced on his mind by hearing a portion of his inauguration + speech read from an English pulpit, which related to the causes that + induced him to issue his Emancipation Proclamation, by which memorable + deed 4,000,000 of slaves were for ever freed. To the memory of the man + whose labours on behalf of the negro race deserves the commendation of all + good men, Livingstone has contributed a monument more durable than brass + or stone. + </p> + <p> + Entering Webb's River from the south-south-west, a little north of + Kamolondo, is a large river called Lufira, but the streams, that discharge + themselves from the watershed into the Lualaba are so numerous that the + Doctor's map would not contain them, so he has left all out except the + most important. Continuing his way north, tracing the Lualaba through its + manifold and crooked curves as far as latitude 4 degrees south, he came to + where he heard of another lake, to the north, into which it ran. But here + you may come to a dead halt, and read what lies beyond this spot thus.... + This was the furthermost point, whence he was compelled to return on the + weary road to Ujiji, a distance of 700 miles. + </p> + <p> + In this brief sketch of Dr. Livingstone's wonderful travels it is to be + hoped the most superficial reader, as well as the student of geography, + comprehends this grand system of lakes connected together by Webb's River. + To assist him, let him glance at the map accompanying this book. He will + then have a fair idea of what Dr. Livingstone has been doing during these + long years, and what additions he has made to the study of African + geography. That this river, distinguished under several titles, flowing + from one lake into another in a northerly direction, with all its great + crooked bends and sinuosities, is the Nile—the true Nile—the + Doctor has not the least doubt. For a long time he entertained great + scepticism, because of its deep bends and curves west, and south-west + even; but having traced it from its head waters, the Chambezi, through 7 + degrees of latitude—that is, from 11 degrees S. to lat. 4 degrees N.—he + has been compelled to come to the conclusion that it can be no other river + than the Nile. He had thought it was the Congo; but has discovered the + sources of the Congo to be the Kassai and the Kwango, two rivers which + rise on the western side of the Nile watershed, in about the latitude of + Bangweolo; and he was told of another river called the Lubilash, which + rose from the north, and ran west. But the Lualaba, the Doctor thinks, + cannot be the Congo, from its great size and body, and from its steady and + continued flow northward through a broad and extensive valley, bounded by + enormous mountains westerly and easterly. The altitude of the most + northerly point to which the Doctor traced the wonderful river was a + little in excess of 2,000 feet; so that, though Baker makes out his lake + to be 2,700 feet above the sea, yet the Bahr Ghazal, through which + Petherick's branch of the White Nile issues into the Nile, is but 2,000 + feet; in which case there is a possibility that the Lualaba may be none + other than Petherick's branch. + </p> + <p> + It is well known that trading stations for ivory have been established for + about 500 miles up Petherick's branch. We must remember this fact when + told that Gondokoro, in lat. 4 degrees N., is 2,000 feet above the sea, + and lat. 4 degrees S., where the halt was made, is only a little over + 2,000 feet above the sea. That the two rivers said to be 2,000 feet above + the sea, separated from each other by 8 degrees of latitude, are one and + the same river, may among some men be regarded as a startling statement. + But we must restrain mere expressions of surprise, and take into + consideration that this mighty and broad Lualaba is a lacustrine river + broader than the Mississippi; that at intervals the body of water forms + extensive lakes; then, contracting into a broad river, it again forms a + lake, and so on, to lat. 4 degrees; and even beyond this point the Doctor + hears of a large lake again north. + </p> + <p> + We must wait also until the altitudes of the two rivers, the Lualaba, + where the Doctor halted, and the southern point on the Bahr Ghazal, where + Petherick has been, are known with perfect accuracy. + </p> + <p> + Now, for the sake of argument, suppose we give this nameless lake a length + of 6 degrees of latitude, as it may be the one discovered by Piaggia, the + Italian traveller, from which Petherick's branch of the White Nile issues + out through reedy marshes, into the Bahr Ghazal, thence into the White + Nile, south of Gondokoro. By this method we can suppose the rivers one; + for if the lake extends over so many degrees of latitude, the necessity of + explaining the differences of altitude that must naturally exist between + two points of a river 8 degrees of latitude apart, would be obviated. + </p> + <p> + Also, Livingstone's instruments for observation and taking altitudes may + have been in error; and this is very likely to have been the case, + subjected as they have been to rough handling during nearly six years of + travel. Despite the apparent difficulty of the altitude, there is another + strong reason for believing Webb's River, or the Lualaba, to be the Nile. + The watershed of this river, 600 miles of which Livingstone has travelled, + is drained from a valley which lies north and south between lofty eastern + and western ranges. + </p> + <p> + This valley, or line of drainage, while it does not receive the Kassai and + the Kwango, receives rivers flowing from a great distance west, for + instance, the important tributaries Lufira and Lomami, and large rivers + from the east, such as the Lindi and Luamo; and, while the most + intelligent Portuguese travellers and traders state that the Kassai, the + Kwango, and Lubilash are the head waters of the Congo River, no one has + yet started the supposition that the grand river flowing north, and known + by the natives as the Lualaba, is the Congo. + </p> + <p> + This river may be the Congo, or, perhaps, the Niger. If the Lualaba is + only 2,000 feet above the sea, and the Albert N'Yanza 2,700 feet, the + Lualaba cannot enter that lake. If the Bahr Ghazal does not extend by an + arm for eight degrees above Gondokoro, then the Lualaba cannot be the + Nile. But it would be premature to dogmatise on the subject. Livingstone + will clear up the point himself; and if he finds it to be the Congo, will + be the first to admit his error. + </p> + <p> + Livingstone admits the Nile sources have not been found, though he has + traced the Lualaba through seven degrees of latitude flowing north; and, + though he has not a particle of doubt of its being the Nile, not yet can + the Nile question be said to be resolved and ended. For two reasons: + </p> + <p> + 1. He has heard of the existence of four fountains, two of which gave + birth to a river flowing north, Webb's River, or the Lualaba, and to a + river flowing south, which is the Zambezi. He has repeatedly heard of + these fountains from the natives. Several times he has been within 100 and + 200 miles from them, but something always interposed to prevent his going + to see them. According to those who have seen them, they rise on either + side of a mound or level, which contains no stones. Some have called it an + ant-hill. One of these fountains is said to be so large that a man, + standing on one side, cannot be seen from the other. These fountains must + be discovered, and their position taken. The Doctor does not suppose them + to be south of the feeders of Lake Bangweolo. In his letter to the + 'Herald' he says "These four full-grown gushing fountains, rising so near + each other, and giving origin to four large rivers, answer in a certain + degree to the description given of the unfathomable fountains of the Nile, + by the secretary of Minerva, in the city of Sais, in Egypt, to the father + of all travellers—Herodotus." + </p> + <p> + For the information of such readers as may not have the original at hand, + I append the following from Cary's translation of Herodotus: (II.28) + </p> + <p> + (Jul 2001 The History of Herodotus V1 by Herodotus; Macaulay) + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> +*** With respect to the sources of the Nile, no man of all the + Egyptians, Libyans, or Grecians, with whom I have conversed, + ever pretended to know anything, except the registrar* of Minerva's +</pre> + <p> + *the secretary of the treasury of the goddess Neith, or Athena as + Herodotus calls her: ho grammatiste:s to:n hiro:n xre:mato:n te:s + Athe:naie:s> + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + treasury at Sais, in Egypt. He, indeed, seemed to be trifling + with me when he said he knew perfectly well; yet his account was + as follows: "That there are two mountains, rising into a sharp + peak, situated between the city of Syene, in Thebais, and + Elephantine. The names of these mountains are the one Crophi, + the other Mophi; that the sources of the Nile, which are bottomless, + flow from between these mountains and that half of the water flows + over Egypt and to the north, the other half over Ethiopia and the + south. That the fountains of the Nile are bottomless, he said, + Psammitichus, king of Egypt, proved by experiment: for, having + caused a line to be twisted many thousand fathoms in length, he + let it down, but could not find a bottom." Such, then, was the + opinion the registrar gave, if, indeed, he spoke the real truth; + proving, in my opinion, that there are strong whirlpools and an + eddy here, so that the water beating against the rocks, a + sounding-line, when let down, cannot reach the bottom. I was + unable to learn anything more from any one else. But thus much + I learnt by carrying my researches as far as possible, having gone + and made my own observations as far as Elephantine, and beyond + that obtaining information from hearsay. As one ascends the river, + above the city of Elephantine, the country is steep; here, + therefore; it is necessary to attach a rope on both sides of a boat, + as one does with an ox in a plough, and so proceed; but if + the rope should happen to break, the boat is carried away by the + force of the stream. This kind of country lasts for a four-days' + passage, and the Nile here winds as much as the Maeander. There + are twelve schoeni, which it is necessary to sail through in + this manner; and after that you will come to a level plain, where + the Nile flows round an island; its name is Tachompso. Ethiopians + inhabit the country immediately above Elephantine, and one half + of the island; the other half is inhabited by Egyptians. Near to + this island lies a vast lake, on the borders of which Ethiopian + nomades dwell. After sailing through this lake you will come to + the channel of the Nile, which flows into it: then you will have + to land and travel forty days by the side of the river, for sharp + rocks rise in the Nile, and there are many sunken ones, through + which it is not possible to navigate a boat. Having passed this + country in the forty days, you must go on board another boat, and + sail for twelve days; and then you will arrive at a large city, + called Meroe; this city is said to be the capital of all + Ethiopia. The inhabitants worship no other gods than Jupiter and + Bacchus; but these they honour with great magnificence. They + have also an oracle of Jupiter; and they make war whenever that + god bids them by an oracular warning, and against whatever + country he bids them. Sailing from this city, you will arrive at + the country of the Automoli, in a space of time equal to that + which you took in coming from Elephantine to the capital of the + Ethiopians. These Automoli are called by the name of Asmak, + which, in the language of Greece, signifies "those that stand at + the left hand of the king." These, to the number of two hundred and + forty thousand of the Egyptian war-tribe, revolted to the + Ethiopians on the following occasion. In the reign of King + Psammitichus garrisons were stationed at Elephantine against the + Ethiopians, and another at the Pelusian Daphnae against the + Arabians and Syrians, and another at Marea against Libya; and even + in my time garrisons of the Persians are stationed in the same + places as they were in the time of Psammitichus, for they + maintain guards at Elephantine and Daphnae. Now, these Egyptians, + after they had been on duty three years, were not relieved; + therefore, having consulted together and come to an unanimous + resolution, they all revolted from Psammitichus, and went to + Ethiopia. Psammitichus, hearing of this, pursued them; and when + he overtook them he entreated them by many arguments, and adjured + them not to forsake the gods of their fathers, and their + children and wives But one of them is reported to have uncovered + [ ] and to have said, that wheresoever these were there they +</pre> + <p> + ["which it is said that one of them pointed to his privy member and said + that wherever this was, there would they have both children and wives"—Macaulay + tr.; published edition censors] + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + should find both children and wives." These men, when they arrived + in Ethiopia, offered their services to the king of the Ethiopians, + who made them the following recompense. There were certain + Ethiopians disaffected towards him; these he bade them expel, + and take possession of their land. By the settlement of these men + among the Ethiopians, the Ethiopians became more civilized, and + learned the manners of the Egyptians. + + Now, for a voyage and land journey of four months, the Nile is + known, in addition to the part f the stream that is in Egypt; for, + upon computation, so many months are known to be spent by a + person who travels from Elephantine to the Automoli. This river + flows from the west and the setting of the sun; but beyond this no + one is able to speak with certainty, for the rest of the country + is desert by reason of the excessive heat. But I have heard the + following account from certain Cyrenaeans, who say that they went + to the oracle of Ammon, and had a conversation with Etearchus, King + of the Ammonians, and that, among other subjects, they happened to + discourse about the Nile—that nobody knew its sources; whereupon + Etearchus said that certain Nasamonians once came to him—this + nation is Lybian, and inhabits the Syrtis, and the country for no + great distance eastward of the Syrtis—and that when these + Nasamonians arrived, and were asked if they could give any + further formation touching the deserts of Libya, they answered, + that there were some daring youths amongst them, sons of powerful + men; and that they, having reached man's estate, formed many + other extravagant plans, and, moreover, chose five of their number + by lot to explore the deserts of Libya, to see if they could make + any further discovery than those who had penetrated the farthest. + (For, as respects the parts of Libya along the Northern Sea, + beginning from Egypt to the promontory of Solois, where is the + extremity of Libya, Libyans and various nations of Libyans reach + all along it, except those parts which are occupied by Grecians + and Phoenicians; but as respects the parts above the sea, and + those nations which reach down to the sea, in the upper parts + Libya is infested by wild beasts; and all beyond that is sand, + dreadfully short of water, and utterly desolate.) They further + related, "that when the young men deputed by their companions + set out, well furnished with water and provisions, they passed + first through the inhabited country; and having traversed this, + they came to the region infested by wild beasts; and after this + they crossed the desert, making their way towards the west; and + when they had traversed much sandy ground, during a journey of + many days, they at length saw some trees growing in a plain; and + that they approached and began to gather the fruit that grew on + the trees; and while they were gathering, some diminutive men, + less than men of middle stature, came up, and having seized them + carried them away; and that the Nasamonians did not at all understand + their language, nor those who carried them off the language of + the Nasamonians. However, they conducted them through vast + morasses, and when they had passed these, they came to a city in + which all the inhabitants were of the same size as their conductors, + and black in colour: and by the city flowed a great river, running + from the west to the east, and that crocodiles were seen in it." + Thus far I have set forth the account of Etearchus the Ammonian; + to which may be added, as the Cyrenaeans assured me, "that he said + the Nasamonians all returned safe to their own country, and that + the men whom they came to were all necromancers." Etearchus also + conjectured that this river, which flows by their city, is the Nile; + and reason so evinces: for the Nile flows from Libya, and intersects + it in the middle; and (as I conjecture, inferring things unknown + from things known) it sets out from a point corresponding with the + Ister. For the Ister, beginning from the Celts, and the city of + Pyrene, divides Europe in its course; but the Celts are beyond + the pillars of Hercules, and border on the territories of the + Cynesians, who lie in the extremity of Europe to the westward; + and the Ister terminates by flowing through all Europe into the + Euxine Sea, where a Milesian colony is settled in Istria. Now + the Ister, as it flows through a well-peopled country, is generally + known; but no one is able to speak about the sources of the Nile, + because Libya, through which it flows, is uninhabited and desolate. + Respecting this stream, therefore, as far as I was able to reach by + inquiry, I have already spoken. It however discharges itself into + Egypt; and Egypt lies, as near as may be, opposite to the + mountains of Cilicia; from whence to Sinope, on the Euxine Sea, + is a five days' journey in a straight line to an active man; and + Sinope is opposite to the Ister, where it discharges itself into + the sea. So I think that the Nile, traversing the whole of Libya, + may be properly compared with the Ister. Such, then, is the + account that I am able to give respecting the Nile. + *** (end of Herodotus's account) *** +</pre> + <p> + 2. Webb's River must be traced to its connection with some portion of the + old Nile. + </p> + <p> + When these two things have been accomplished, then, and not till then, can + the mystery of the Nile be explained. The two countries through which the + marvellous lacustrine river, the Lualaba, flows, with its manifold lakes + and broad expanse of water, are Rua (the Uruwwa of Speke) and Manyuema. + For the first time Europe is made aware that between the Tanganika and the + known sources of the Congo there exist teeming millions of the negro race, + who never saw, or heard of the white people who make such a noisy and busy + stir outside of Africa. Upon the minds of those who had the good fortune + to see the first specimen of these remarkable white races in Dr. + Livingstone, he seems to have made a favourable impression, though, + through misunderstanding his object, and coupling him with the Arabs, who + make horrible work there, his life was sought after more than once. These + two extensive countries, Rua and Manyuema, are populated by true heathens, + governed, not as the sovereignties of Karagwah, Urundi, and Uganda, by + despotic kings, but each village by its own sultan or lord. Thirty miles + outside of their own immediate settlements, the most intelligent of these + small chiefs seem to know nothing. Thirty miles from the Lualaba, there + were but few people who had ever heard of the great river. Such ignorance + among the natives of their own country naturally increased the labours of + Livingstone. Compared with these, all tribes and nations in Africa with + whom Livingstone came in contact may be deemed civilized, yet, in the arts + of home manufacture, these wild people of Manyuema were far superior to + any he had seen. Where other tribes and nations contented themselves with + hides and skins of animals thrown negligently over their shoulders, the + people of Manyuema manufactured a cloth from fine grass, which may + favorably compare with the finest grass cloth of India. They also know the + art of dyeing them in various colours—black, yellow, and purple. The + Wangwana, or freed-men of Zanzibar, struck with the beauty of the fabric, + eagerly exchange their cotton cloths for fine grass cloth; and on almost + every black man from Manyuema I have seen this native cloth converted into + elegantly made damirs (Arabic)—short jackets. These countries are + also very rich in ivory. The fever for going to Manyuema to exchange + tawdry beads for its precious tusks is of the same kind as that which + impelled men to go to the gulches and placers of California, Colorado, + Montana, and Idaho; after nuggets to Australia, and diamonds to Cape + Colony. Manyuema is at present the El Dorado of the Arab and the Wamrima + tribes. It is only about four years since that the first Arab returned + from Manyuema, with such wealth of ivory, and reports about the fabulous + quantities found there, that ever since the old beaten tracks of Karagwah, + Uganda, Ufipa, and Marungu have been comparatively deserted. The people of + Manyuema, ignorant of the value of the precious article, reared their huts + upon ivory stanchions. Ivory pillars were common sights in Manyuema, and, + hearing of these, one can no longer, wonder at the ivory palace of + Solomon. For generations they have used ivory tusks as door-posts and + supports to the eaves, until they had become perfectly rotten and + worthless. But the advent of the Arabs soon taught them the value of the + article. It has now risen considerably in price, though still fabulously + cheap. At Zanzibar the value of ivory per frasilah of 35 lbs. weight is + from $50 to $60, according to its quality. In Unyanyembe it is about $1-10 + per pound, but in Manyuema, it may be purchased for from half a cent to 14 + cent's worth of copper per pound of ivory. The Arabs, however, have the + knack of spoiling markets by their rapacity and cruelty. With muskets, a + small party of Arabs is invincible against such people as those of + Manyuema, who, until lately, never heard the sound of a gun. The discharge + of a musket inspires mortal terror in them, and it is almost impossible to + induce them to face the muzzle of a gun. They believe that the Arabs have + stolen the lightning, and that against such people the bow and arrow can + have little effect. They are by no means devoid of courage, and they have + often declared that, were it not for the guns, not one Arab would leave + the country alive; this tends to prove that they would willingly engage in + fight with the strangers who had made themselves so detestable, were it + not that the startling explosion of gunpowder inspires them with terror. + </p> + <p> + Into what country soever the Arabs enter, they contrive to render their + name and race abominated. But the mainspring of it all is not the Arab's + nature, colour, or name, but simply the slave-trade. So long as the + slave-trade is permitted to be kept up at Zanzibar, so long will these + otherwise enterprising people, the Arabs, kindle gainst them the hatred of + the natives throughout Africa. + </p> + <p> + On the main line of travel from Zanzibar into the interior of Africa these + acts of cruelty are unknown, for the very good reason that the natives + having been armed with guns, and taught how to use those weapons, are by + no means loth to do so whenever an opportunity presents itself. When, too + late, they have perceived their folly in selling guns to the natives, the + Arabs now begin to vow vengeance on the person who will in future sell a + gun to a native. But they are all guilty of the same mistake, and it is + strange they did not perceive that it was folly when they were doing so. + </p> + <p> + In former days the Arab, when protected by his slave escort, armed with + guns, could travel through Useguhha, Urori, Ukonongo, Ufipa, Karagwah, + Unyoro, and Uganda, with only a stick in his hand; now, however, it is + impossible for him or any one else to do so. Every step he takes, armed or + unarmed, is fraught with danger. The Waseguhha, near the coast, detain + him, and demand the tribute, or give him the option of war; entering + Ugogo, he is subjected every day to the same oppressive demand, or to the + fearful alternative. The Wanyamwezi also show their readiness to take the + same advantage; the road to Karagwah is besieged with difficulties; the + terrible Mirambo stands in the way, defeats their combined forces with + ease, and makes raids even to the doors of their houses in Unyanyembe; and + should they succeed in passing Mirambo, a chief—Swaruru—stands + before them who demands tribute by the bale, and against whom it is + useless to contend. + </p> + <p> + These remarks have reference to the slave-trade inaugurated in Manyuema by + the Arabs. Harassed on the road between Zanzibar and Unyanyembe by + minatory natives, who with bloody hands are ready to avenge the slightest + affront, the Arabs have refrained from kidnapping between the Tanganika + and the sea; but in Manyuema, where the natives are timid, irresolute, and + divided into small weak tribes, they recover their audacity, and exercise + their kidnapping propensities unchecked. + </p> + <p> + The accounts which the Doctor brings from that new region are most + deplorable. He was an unwilling spectator of a horrible deed—a + massacre committed on the inhabitants of a populous district who had + assembled in the market-place on the banks of the Lualaba, as they had + been accustomed to do for ages. It seems that the Wamanyuema are very fond + of marketing, believing it to be the summum bonum of human enjoyment. They + find endless pleasure in chaffering with might and main for the least mite + of their currency—the last bead; and when they gain the point to + which their peculiar talents are devoted, they feel intensely happy. The + women are excessively fond of this marketing, and, as they are very + beautiful, the market place must possess considerable attractions for the + male sex. It was on such a day amidst such a scene, that Tagamoyo, a + half-caste Arab, with his armed slave escort, commenced an indiscriminate + massacre by firing volley after volley into the dense mass of human + beings. It is supposed that there were about 2,000 present, and at the + first sound of the firing these poor people all made a rush for their + canoes. In the fearful hurry to avoid being shot, the canoes were paddled + away by the first fortunate few who got possession of them; those that + were not so fortunate sprang into the deep waters of the Lualaba, and + though many of them became an easy prey to the voracious crocodiles which + swarmed to the scene, the majority received their deaths from the bullets + of the merciless Tagamoyo and his villanous band. The Doctor believes, as + do the Arabs themselves, that about 400 people, mostly women and children, + lost their lives, while many more were made slaves. This outrage is only + one of many such he has unwillingly witnessed, and he is utterly unable to + describe the feelings of loathing he feels for the inhuman perpetrators. + </p> + <p> + Slaves from Manyuema command a higher price than those of any other + country, because of their fine forms and general docility. The women, the + Doctor said repeatedly, are remarkably pretty creatures, and have nothing, + except the hair, in common with the negroes of the West Coast. They are of + very light colour, have fine noses, well-cut and not over-full lips, while + the prognathous jaw is uncommon. These women are eagerly sought after as + wives by the half-castes of the East Coast, and even the pure Omani Arabs + do not disdain to take them in marriage. + </p> + <p> + To the north of Manyuema, Livingstone came to the light-complexioned race, + of the colour of Portuguese, or our own Louisiana quadroons, who are very + fine people, and singularly remarkable for commercial "'cuteness" and + sagacity. The women are expert divers for oysters, which are found in + great abundance in the Lualaba. + </p> + <p> + Rua, at a place called Katanga, is rich in copper. The copper-mines of + this place have been worked for ages. In the bed of a stream, gold has + been found, washed down in pencil-shaped pieces or in particles as large + as split peas. Two Arabs have gone thither to prospect for this metal; + but, as they are ignorant of the art of gulch-mining, it is scarcely + possible that they will succeed. From these highly important and + interesting discoveries, Dr. Livingstone was turned back, when almost on + the threshold of success, by the positive refusal of his men to accompany + him further. They were afraid to go on unless accompanied by a large force + of men; and, as these were not procurable in Manyuema, the Doctor + reluctantly turned his face towards Ujiji. + </p> + <p> + It was a long and weary road back. The journey had now no interest for + him. He had travelled the road before when going westward, full of high + hopes and aspirations, impatient to reach the goal which promised him rest + from his labors—now, returning unsuccessful, baffled, and thwarted, + when almost in sight of the end, and having to travel the same path back + on foot, with disappointed expectations and defeated hopes preying on his + mind, no wonder that the old brave spirit almost succumbed, and the strong + constitution almost went to wreck. + </p> + <p> + Livingstone arrived at Ujiji, October 16th, almost at death's door. On the + way he had been trying to cheer himself up, since he had found it + impossible to contend against the obstinacy of his men, with, "It won't + take long; five or six months more; it matters not since it cannot be + helped. I have got my goods in Ujiji, and can hire other people, and make + a new start again." These are the words and hopes by which he tried to + delude himself into the idea that all would be right yet; but imagine the + shock he must have suffered, when he found that the man to whom was + entrusted his goods for safe keeping had sold every bale for ivory. + </p> + <p> + The evening of the day Livingstone had returned to Ujiji, Susi and Chuma, + two of his most faithful men, were seen crying bitterly. The Doctor asked + of them what ailed them, and was then informed, for the first time, of the + evil tidings that awaited him. + </p> + <p> + Said they, "All our things are sold, sir; Sherif has sold everything for + ivory." + </p> + <p> + Later in the evening, Sherif came to see him, and shamelessly offered his + hand, but Livingstone repulsed him, saying he could not shake hands with a + thief. As an excuse, Sherif said he had divined on the Koran, and that + this had told him the Hakim (Arabic for Doctor) was dead. + </p> + <p> + Livingstone was now destitute; he had just enough to keep him and his men + alive for about a month, when he would be forced to beg from the Arabs. + </p> + <p> + The Doctor further stated, that when Speke gives the altitude of the + Tanganika at only 1,800 feet above the sea, Speke must have fallen into + that error by a frequent writing of the Anne Domini, a mere slip of the + pen; for the altitude, as he makes it out, is 2,800 feet by boiling point, + and a little over 3,000 feet by barometer. + </p> + <p> + The Doctor's complaints were many because slaves were sent to him, in + charge of goods, after he had so often implored the people at Zanzibar to + send him freemen. A very little effort on the part of those entrusted with + the despatch of supplies to him might have enabled them to procure good + and faithful freemen; but if they contented themselves, upon the receipt + of a letter from Dr. Livingstone, with sending to Ludha Damji for men, it + is no longer a matter of wonder that dishonest and incapable slaves were + sent forward. It is no new fact that the Doctor has discovered when he + states that a negro freeman is a hundred times more capable and + trustworthy than a slave. Centuries ago Eumaeus, the herdsman, said to + Ulysses: + </p> + <p> + Jove fixed it certain, that whatever day Makes man a slave, takes half his + worth away. + </p> + <p> + We passed several happy days at Ujiji, and it was time we were now + preparing for our cruise on the Tanganika. Livingstone was improving every + day under the different diet which my cook furnished him. I could give him + no such suppers as that which Jupiter and Mercury received at the cottage + of Baucis and Philemon. We had no berries of chaste Minerva, pickled + cherries, endive, radishes, dried figs, dates, fragrant apples, and + grapes; but we had cheese, and butter which I made myself, new-laid eggs, + chickens, roast mutton, fish from the lake, rich curds and cream, wine + from the Guinea-palm, egg-plants, cucumbers, sweet potatoes, pea-nuts, and + beans, white honey from Ukaranga, luscious singwe—a plum-like fruit—from + the forests of Ujiji, and corn scones and dampers, in place of wheaten + bread. + </p> + <p> + During the noontide heats we sat under our veranda discussing our various + projects, and in the early morning and evening we sought the shores of the + lake—promenading up and down the beach to breathe the cool breezes + which ruffled the surface of the water, and rolled the unquiet surf far up + on the smooth and whitened shore. + </p> + <p> + It was the dry season, and we had most lovely weather; the temperature + never was over 80 degrees in the shade. + </p> + <p> + The market-place overlooking the broad silver water afforded us amusement + and instruction. Representatives of most of the tribes dwelling near the + lake were daily found there. There were the agricultural and pastoral + Wajiji, with their flocks and herds; there were the fishermen from + Ukaranga and Kaole, from beyond Bangwe, and even from Urundi, with their + whitebait, which they called dogara, the silurus, the perch, and other + fish; there were the palm-oil merchants, principally from Ujiji and + Urundi, with great five-gallon pots full of reddish oil, of the + consistency of butter; there were the salt merchants from the salt-plains + of Uvinza and Uhha; there were the ivory merchants from Uvira and Usowa; + there were the canoe-makers from Ugoma and Urundi; there were the + cheap-Jack pedlers from Zanzibar, selling flimsy prints, and brokers + exchanging blue mutunda beads for sami-sami, and sungomazzi, and sofi. The + sofi beads are like pieces of thick clay-pipe stem about half an inch + long, and are in great demand here. Here were found Waguhha, Wamanyuema, + Wagoma, Wavira, Wasige, Warundi, Wajiji, Waha, Wavinza, Wasowa, Wangwana, + Wakawendi, Arabs, and Wasawahili, engaged in noisy chaffer and barter. + Bareheaded, and almost barebodied, the youths made love to the + dark-skinned and woolly-headed Phyllises, who knew not how to blush at the + ardent gaze of love, as their white sisters; old matrons gossiped, as the + old women do everywhere; the children played, and laughed, and struggled, + as children of our own lands; and the old men, leaning on their spears or + bows, were just as garrulous in the Place de Ujiji as aged elders in other + climes. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0013" id="link2HCH0013"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XIII. — OUR CRUISE ON THE LAKE TANGANIKA + </h2> + <h3> + EXPLORATION OF THE NORTH-END OF THE LAKE— THE RUSIZI IS DISCOVERED + TO ENTER INTO THE LAKE—RETURN TO UJIJI. + </h3> + <p> + "I distinctly deny that 'any misleading by my instructions from the Royal + Geographical Society as to the position of the White Nile' made me + unconscious of the vast importance of ascertaining the direction of the + Rusizi River. The fact is, we did our best to reach it, and we failed."—Burton's + Zanzibar. + </p> + <p> + "The universal testimony of the natives to the Rusizi River being an + influent is the most conclusive argument that it does run out of the + lake."—Speke. + </p> + <p> + "I therefore claim for Lake Tanganika the honour of being the SOUTHERNMOST + RESERVOIR OF THE NILE, until some more positive evidence, by actual + observation, shall otherwise determine it."—Findlay, R.G.S. + </p> + <p> + Had Livingstone and myself, after making up our minds to visit the + northern head of the Lake Tanganika, been compelled by the absurd demands + or fears of a crew of Wajiji to return to Unyanyembe without having + resolved the problem of the Rusizi River, we had surely deserved to be + greeted by everybody at home with a universal giggling and cackling. But + Capt. Burton's failure to settle it, by engaging Wajiji, and that + ridiculous savage chief Kannena, had warned us of the negative assistance + we could expect from such people for the solution of a geographical + problem. We had enough good sailors with us, who were entirely under our + commands. Could we but procure the loan of a canoe, we thought all might + be well. + </p> + <p> + Upon application to Sayd bin Majid, he at once generously permitted us to + use his canoe for any service for which we might require it. After + engaging two Wajiji guides at two doti each, we prepared to sail from the + port of Ujiji, in about a week or so after my entrance into Ujiji. + </p> + <p> + I have already stated how it was that the Doctor and I undertook the + exploration of the northern half of the Tanganika and the River Rusizi, + about which so much had been said and written. + </p> + <p> + Before embarking on this enterprise, Dr. Livingstone had not definitely + made up his mind which course he should take, as his position was truly + deplorable. His servants consisted of Susi, Chumah, Hamoydah, Gardner, and + Halimah, the female cook and wife of Hamoydah; to these was added + Kaif-Halek, the man whom I compelled to follow me from Unyanyembe to + deliver the Livingstone letters to his master. + </p> + <p> + Whither could Dr. Livingstone march with these few men, and the few + table-cloths and beads that remained to him from the store squandered by + the imbecile Sherif? This was a puzzling question. Had Dr. Livingstone + been in good health, his usual hardihood and indomitable spirit had + answered it in a summary way. He might have borrowed some cloth from Sayd + bin Majid at an exorbitant price, sufficient to bring him to Unyanyembe + and the sea-coast. But how long would he have been compelled to sit down + at Ujiji, waiting and waiting for the goods that were said to be at + Unyanyembe, a prey to high expectations, hoping day after day that the war + would end—hoping week after week to hear that his goods were coming? + Who knows how long his weak health had borne up against the several + disappointments to which he would be subjected? + </p> + <p> + Though it was with all due deference to Dr. Livingstone's vast experience + as a traveller, I made bold to suggest the following courses to him, + either of which he could adopt: + </p> + <p> + Ist. To go home, and take the rest he so well deserved and, as he appeared + then, to be so much in need of. + </p> + <p> + 2nd. To proceed to Unyanyembe, receive his goods, and enlist pagazis + sufficient to enable him to travel anywhere, either to Manyuema or Rua, + and settle the Nile problem, which he said he was in a fair way of doing. + </p> + <p> + 3rd. To proceed to Unyanyembe, receive his caravan, enlist men, and try to + join Sir Samuel Baker, either by going to Muanza, and sailing through + Ukerewe or Victoria N'Yanza in my boats—which I should put up—to + Mtesa's palace at Uganda, thus passing by Mirambo and Swaruru of Usui, who + would rob him if he took the usual caravan road to Uganda; thence from + Mtesa to Kamrasi, King of Unyoro, where he would of course hear of the + great white man who was said to be with a large force of men at Gondokoro. + </p> + <p> + 4th. To proceed to Unyanyembe, receive his caravan, enlist men, and return + to Ujiji, and back to Manyuema by way of Uguhha. + </p> + <p> + 5th. To proceed by way of the Rusizi through Ruanda, and so on to Itara, + Unyoro, and Baker. + </p> + <p> + For either course, whichever he thought most expedient, I and my men would + assist him as escort and carriers, to the best of our ability. If he + should elect to go home, I informed him I should be proud to escort him, + and consider myself subject to his commands—travelling only when he + desired, and camping only when he gave the word. + </p> + <p> + 6th. The last course which I suggested to him, was to permit me to escort + him to Unyanyembe, where he could receive his own goods, and where I could + deliver up to him a large supply of first-class cloth and beads, guns and + ammunition, cooking utensils, clothing, boats, tents, &c., and where + he could rest in a comfortable house, while I would hurry down to the + coast, organise a new expedition composed of fifty or sixty faithful men, + well armed, by whom I could send an additional supply of needful luxuries + in the shape of creature comforts. + </p> + <p> + After long consideration, he resolved to adopt the last course, as it + appeared to him to be the most feasible one, and the best, though he did + not hesitate to comment upon the unaccountable apathy of his agent at + Zanzibar, which had caused him so much trouble and vexation, and weary + marching of hundreds of miles. + </p> + <p> + Our ship—though nothing more than a cranky canoe hollowed out of a + noble mvule tree of Ugoma—was an African Argo bound on a nobler + enterprise than its famous Grecian prototype. We were bound upon no + mercenary errand, after no Golden Fleece, but perhaps to discover a + highway for commerce which should bring the ships of the Nile up to Ujiji, + Usowa, and far Marungu. We did not know what we might discover on our + voyage to the northern head of the Tanganika; we supposed that we should + find the Rusizi to be an effluent of the Tanganika, flowing down to the + Albert or the Victoria N'Yanza. We were told by natives and Arabs that the + Rusizi ran out of the lake. + </p> + <p> + Sayd bin Majid had stated that his canoe would carry twenty-five men, and + 3,500 lbs. of ivory. Acting upon this information, we embarked twenty-five + men, several of whom had stored away bags of salt for the purposes of + trade with the natives; but upon pushing off from the shore near Ujiji, we + discovered the boat was too heavily laden, and was down to the gunwale. + Returning in-shore, we disembarked six men, and unloaded the bags of salt, + which left us with sixteen rowers, Selim, Ferajji the cook, and the two + Wajiji guides. + </p> + <p> + Having thus properly trimmed our boat we again pushed off, and steered her + head for Bangwe Island, which was distant four or five miles from the + Bunder of Ujiji. While passing this island the guides informed us that the + Arabs and Wajiji took shelter on it during an incursion of the Watuta—which + took place some years ago—when they came and invaded Ujiji, and + massacred several of the inhabitants. Those who took refuge on the island + were the only persons who escaped the fire and sword with which the Watuta + had visited Ujiji. + </p> + <p> + After passing the island and following the various bends and indentations + of the shore, we came in sight of the magnificent bay of Kigoma, which + strikes one at once as being an excellent harbor from the variable winds + which blow over the Tanganika. About 10 A.M. we drew in towards the + village of Kigoma, as the east wind was then rising, and threatened to + drive us to sea. With those travelling parties who are not in much hurry + Kigoma is always the first port for canoes bound north from Ujiji. The + next morning at dawn we struck tent, stowed baggage, cooked, and drank + coffee, and set off northward again. + </p> + <p> + The lake was quite calm; its waters, of a dark-green colour, reflected the + serene blue sky above. The hippopotami came up to breathe in alarmingly + close proximity to our canoe, and then plunged their heads again, as if + they were playing hide-and-seek with us. Arriving opposite the high wooded + hills of Bemba, and being a mile from shore, we thought it a good + opportunity to sound the depth of the water, whose colour seemed to + indicate great depth. We found thirty-five fathoms at this place. + </p> + <p> + Our canoeing of this day was made close in-shore, with a range of hills, + beautifully wooded and clothed with green grass, sloping abruptly, almost + precipitously, into the depths of the fresh-water sea, towering + immediately above us, and as we rounded the several capes or points, + roused high expectations of some new wonder, or some exquisite picture + being revealed as the deep folds disclosed themselves to us. Nor were we + disappointed. The wooded hills with a wealth of boscage of beautiful + trees, many of which were in bloom, and crowned with floral glory, + exhaling an indescribably sweet fragrance, lifting their heads in varied + contour—one pyramidal, another a truncated cone; one table-topped, + another ridgy, like the steep roof of a church; one a glorious heave with + an even outline, another jagged and savage-interested us considerably; and + the pretty pictures, exquisitely pretty, at the head of the several bays, + evoked many an exclamation of admiration. It was the most natural thing in + the world that I should feel deepest admiration for these successive + pictures of quiet scenic beauty, but the Doctor had quite as much to say + about them as I had myself, though, as one might imagine, satiated with + pictures of this kind far more beautiful—far more wonderful—he + should long ago have expended all his powers of admiring scenes in nature. + </p> + <p> + From Bagamoyo to Ujiji I had seen nothing to compare to them—none of + these fishing settlements under the shade of a grove of palms and + plantains, banians and mimosa, with cassava gardens to the right and left + of palmy forests, and patches of luxuriant grain looking down upon a quiet + bay, whose calm waters at the early morn reflected the beauties of the + hills which sheltered them from the rough and boisterous tempests that so + often blew without. + </p> + <p> + The fishermen evidently think themselves comfortably situated. The lake + affords them all the fish they require, more than enough to eat, and the + industrious a great deal to sell. The steep slopes of the hills, + cultivated by the housewives, contribute plenty of grain, such as dourra + and Indian corn, besides cassava, ground-nuts or peanuts, and sweet + potatoes. The palm trees afford oil, and the plantains an abundance of + delicious fruit. The ravines and deep gullies supply them with the tall + shapely trees from which they cut out their canoes. Nature has supplied + them bountifully with all that a man's heart or stomach can desire. It is + while looking at what seems both externally and internally complete and + perfect happiness that the thought occurs—how must these people + sigh, when driven across the dreary wilderness that intervenes between the + lake country and the sea-coast, for such homes as these!—those + unfortunates who, bought by the Arabs for a couple of doti, are taken away + to Zanzibar to pick cloves, or do hamal work! + </p> + <p> + As we drew near Niasanga, our second camp, the comparison between the + noble array of picturesque hills and receding coves, with their pastoral + and agricultural scenes, and the shores of old Pontus, was very great. A + few minutes before we hauled our canoe ashore, two little incidents + occurred. I shot an enormous dog-faced monkey, which measured from nose to + end of tail 4 feet 9 inches; the face was 8 1/2 inches long, its body + weighed about 100 lbs. It had no mane or tuft at end of tail, but the body + was covered with long wiry hair. Numbers of these specimens were seen, as + well as of the active cat-headed and long-tailed smaller ones. The other + was the sight of a large lizard, about 2 ft. 6 in. long, which waddled + into cover before we had well noticed it. The Doctor thought it to be the + Monitor terrestris. + </p> + <p> + We encamped under a banian tree; our surroundings were the now light-grey + waters of the Tanganika, an amphitheatral range of hills, and the village + of Niasanga, situated at the mouth of the rivulet Niasanga, with its grove + of palms, thicket of plantains, and plots of grain and cassava fields. + Near our tent were about half-a-dozen canoes, large and small, belonging + to the villagers. Our tent door fronted the glorious expanse of fresh + water, inviting the breeze, and the views of distant Ugoma and Ukaramba, + and the Island of Muzimu, whose ridges appeared of a deep-blue colour. At + our feet were the clean and well-washed pebbles, borne upward into tiny + lines and heaps by the restless surf. A search amongst these would reveal + to us the material of the mountain heaps which rose behind and on our + right and left; there was schist, conglomerate sandstone, a hard white + clay, an ochreish clay containing much iron, polished quartz, &c. + Looking out of our tent, we could see a line on each side of us of thick + tall reeds, which form something like a hedge between the beach and the + cultivated area around Niasanga. Among birds seen here, the most noted + were the merry wagtails, which are regarded as good omens and messengers + of peace by the natives, and any harm done unto them is quickly resented, + and is fineable. Except to the mischievously inclined, they offer no + inducement to commit violence. On landing, they flew to meet us, balancing + themselves in the air in front, within easy reach of our hands. The other + birds were crows, turtle-doves, fish-hawks, kingfishers, ibis nigra and + ibis religiosa, flocks of whydah birds, geese, darters, paddy birds, + kites, and eagles. + </p> + <p> + At this place the Doctor suffered from dysentery—it is his only weak + point, he says; and, as I afterwards found, it is a frequent complaint + with him. Whatever disturbed his mind, or any irregularity in eating, was + sure to end in an attack of dysentery, which had lately become of a + chronic character. + </p> + <p> + The third day of our journey on the Tanganika brought us to Zassi River + and village, after a four hours' pull. Along the line of road the + mountains rose 2,000 and 2,500 feet above the waters of the lake. I + imagined the scenery getting more picturesque and animated at every step, + and thought it by far lovelier than anything seen near Lake George or on + the Hudson. The cosy nooks at the head of the many small bays constitute + most admirable pictures, filled in as they are with the ever-beautiful + feathery palms and broad green plantain fronds. These nooks have all been + taken possession of by fishermen, and their conically beehive-shaped huts + always peep from under the frondage. The shores are thus extremely + populous; every terrace, small plateau, and bit of level ground is + occupied. + </p> + <p> + Zassi is easily known by a group of conical hills which rise near by, and + are called Kirassa. Opposite to these, at the distance of about a mile + from shore, we sounded, and obtained 35 fathoms, as on the previous day. + Getting out a mile further, I let go the whole length of my line, 115 + fathoms, and obtained no bottom. In drawing it up again the line parted, + and I lost the lead, with three-fourths of the line. The Doctor stated, + apropos of this, that he had sounded opposite the lofty Kabogo, south of + Ujiji, and obtained the great depth of 300 fathoms. He also lost his lead + and 100 fathoms of his line, but he had nearly 900 fathoms left, and this + was in the canoes. We hope to use this long sounding line in going across + from the eastern to the western shore. + </p> + <p> + On the fourth day we arrived at Nyabigma, a sandy island in Urundi. We had + passed the boundary line between Ujiji and Urundi half-an-hour before + arriving at Nyabigma. The Mshala River is considered by both nations to be + the proper divisional line; though there are parties of Warundi who have + emigrated beyond the frontier into Ujiji; for instance, the Mutware and + villagers of populous Kagunga, distant an hour north from Zassi. There are + also several small parties of Wajiji, who have taken advantage of the fine + lands in the deltas of the Kasokwe, Namusinga, and Luaba Rivers, the two + first of which enter the Tanganika in this bay, near the head of which + Nyabigma is situated. + </p> + <p> + From Nyabigma, a pretty good view of the deep curve in the great mountain + range which stretches from Cape Kazinga and terminates at Cape Kasofu, may + be obtained—a distance of twenty or twenty-five miles. It is a most + imposing scene, this great humpy, ridgy, and irregular line of mountains. + Deep ravines and chasms afford outlets to the numerous streams and rivers + which take their rise in the background; the pale fleecy ether almost + always shrouds its summit. From its base extends a broad alluvial plain, + rich beyond description, teeming with palms and plantains, and umbrageous + trees. Villages are seen in clusters everywhere. Into this alluvial plain + run the Luaba, or Ruaba River, on the north side of Cape Kitunda, and the + Kasokwe, Namusinga, and Mshala Rivers, on the south side of the cape. All + the deltas of rivers emptying into the Tanganika are hedged in on all + sides with a thick growth of matete, a gigantic species of grass, and + papyrus. In some deltas, as that of Luaba and Kasokwe, morasses have been + formed, in which the matete and papyrus jungle is impenetrable. In the + depths of them are quiet and deep pools, frequented by various aquatic + birds, such as geese, ducks, snipes, widgeons, kingfishers and ibis, + cranes and storks, and pelicans. To reach their haunts is, however, a work + of great difficulty to the sportsman in quest of game; a work often + attended with great danger, from the treacherous nature of these morasses, + as well as from the dreadful attacks of fever which, in these regions, + invariably follow wet feet and wet clothes. + </p> + <p> + At Nyabigma we prepared, by distributing ten rounds of ammunition to each + of our men, for a tussle with the Warundi of two stages ahead, should they + invite it by a too forward exhibition of their prejudice to strangers. + </p> + <p> + At dawn of the fifth day we quitted the haven of Nyabigma Island, and in + less than an hour had arrived off Cape Kitunda. This cape is a low + platform of conglomerate sandstone, extending for about eight miles from + the base of the great mountain curve which gives birth to the Luaba and + its sister streams. Crossing the deep bay, at the head of which is the + delta of the Luaba, we came to Cape Kasofu. Villages are numerous in this + vicinity. From hence we obtained a view of a series of points or capes, + Kigongo, Katunga, and Buguluka, all of which we passed before coming to a + halt at the pretty position of Mukungu. + </p> + <p> + At Mukungu, where we stopped on the fifth day, we were asked for honga, or + tribute. The cloth and beads upon which we subsisted during our lake + voyage were mine, but the Doctor, being the elder of the two, more + experienced, and the "big man" of the party, had the charge of satisfying + all such demands. Many and many a time had I gone through the tedious and + soul-wearying task of settling the honga, and I was quite curious to see + how the great traveller would perform the work. + </p> + <p> + The Mateko (a man inferior to a Mutware) of Mukungu asked for two and a + half doti. This was the extent of the demand, which he made known to us a + little after dark. The Doctor asked if nothing had been brought to us. He + was answered, "No, it was too late to get anything now; but, if we paid + the honga, the Mateko would be ready to give us something when we came + back." Livingstone, upon hearing this, smiled, and the Mateko being then + and there in front of him, he said to him. "Well, if you can't get us + anything now, and intend to give something when we return, we had better + keep the honga until then." The Mateko was rather taken aback at this, and + demurred to any such proposition. Seeing that he was dissatisfied, we + urged him to bring one sheep—one little sheep—for our stomachs + were nearly empty, having been waiting more than half a day for it. The + appeal was successful, for the old man hastened, and brought us a lamb and + a three-gallon pot of sweet but strong zogga, or palm toddy, and in return + the Doctor gave him two and a half doti of cloth. The lamb was killed, + and, our digestions being good, its flesh agreed with us; but, alas, for + the effects of zogga, or palm toddy! Susi, the invaluable adjunct of Dr. + Livingstone, and Bombay, the headman of my caravan, were the two charged + with watching the canoe; but, having imbibed too freely of this + intoxicating toddy, they slept heavily, and in the morning the Doctor and + I had to regret the loss of several valuable and indispensable things; + among which may be mentioned the Doctor's 900-fathom sounding-line, 500 + rounds of pin, rim, and central-fire cartridges for my arms, and ninety + musket bullets, also belonging to me. Besides these, which were + indispensable in hostile Warundi, a large bag of flour and the Doctor's + entire stock of white sugar were stolen. This was the third time that my + reliance in Bombay's trustworthiness resulted in a great loss to me, and + for the ninety-ninth time I had to regret bitterly having placed such + entire confidence in Speke's loud commendation of him. It was only the + natural cowardice of ignorant thieves that prevented the savages from + taking the boat and its entire contents, together with Bombay and Susi as + slaves. I can well imagine the joyful surprise which must have been called + forth at the sight and exquisite taste of the Doctor's sugar, and the + wonder with which they must have regarded the strange ammunition of the + Wasungu. It is to be sincerely hoped that they did not hurt themselves + with the explosive bullets and rim cartridges through any ignorance of the + nature of the deadly contents; in which ease the box and its contents + would prove a very Pandora's casket. + </p> + <p> + Much grieved at our loss, we set off on the sixth day at the usual hour on + our watery journey. We coasted close to the several low headlands formed + by the rivers Kigwena, Kikuma, and Kisunwe; and when any bay promised to + be interesting, steered the canoe according to its indentations. While + travelling on the water—each day brought forth similar scenes—on + our right rose the mountains of Urundi, now and then disclosing the + ravines through which the several rivers and streams issued into the great + lake; at their base were the alluvial plains, where flourished the + oil-palm and grateful plantain, while scores of villages were grouped + under their shade. Now and then we passed long narrow strips of pebbly or + sandy beach, whereon markets were improvised for selling fish, and the + staple products of the respective communities. Then we passed broad swampy + morasses, formed by the numerous streams which the mountains discharged, + where the matete and papyrus flourished. Now the mountains approached to + the water, their sides descending abruptly to the water's edge; then they + receded into deep folds, at the base of which was sure to be seen an + alluvial plain from one to eight miles broad. Almost constantly we + observed canoes being punted vigorously close to the surf, in fearless + defiance of a catastrophe, such as a capsize and gobbling-up by voracious + crocodiles. Sometimes we sighted a canoe a short distance ahead of us; + whereupon our men, with song and chorus, would exert themselves to the + utmost to overtake it. Upon observing our efforts, the natives would bend + themselves to their tasks, and paddling standing and stark naked, give us + ample opportunities for studying at our leisure comparative anatomy. Or we + saw a group of fishermen lazily reclining in <i>puris naturalibus</i> on + the beach, regarding with curious eye the canoes as they passed their + neighbourhood; then we passed a flotilla of canoes, their owners sitting + quietly in their huts, busily plying the rod and hook, or casting their + nets, or a couple of men arranging their long drag nets close in shore for + a haul; or children sporting fearlessly in the water, with their mothers + looking on approvingly from under the shade of a tree, from which I infer + that there are not many crocodiles in the lake, except in the + neighbourhood of the large rivers. + </p> + <p> + After passing the low headland of Kisunwe, formed by the Kisunwe River, we + came in view of Murembwe Cape, distant about four or five miles: the + intervening ground being low land, a sandy and pebbly beach. Close to the + beach are scores of villages, while the crowded shore indicates the + populousness of the place beyond. About half way between Cape Kisunwe and + Murembwe, is a cluster of villages called Bikari, which has a mutware who + is in the habit of taking honga. As we were rendered unable to cope for + any length of time with any mischievously inclined community, all villages + having a bad reputation with the Wajiji were avoided by us. But even the + Wajiji guides were sometimes mistaken, and led us more than once into + dangerous places. The guides evidently had no objections to halt at + Bikari, as it was the second camp from Mukungu; because with them a halt + in the cool shade of plaintains was infinitely preferable to sitting like + carved pieces of wood in a cranky canoe. But before they stated their + objections and preferences, the Bikari people called to us in a loud voice + to come ashore, threatening us with the vengeance of the great Wami if we + did not halt. As the voices were anything but siren-like, we obstinately + refused to accede to the request. Finding threats of no avail, they had + recourse to stones, and, accordingly, flung them at us in a most hearty + manner. As one came within a foot of my arm, I suggested that a bullet be + sent in return in close proximity to their feet; but Livingstone, though + he said nothing, yet showed plainly enough that he did not quite approve + of this. As these demonstrations of hostility were anything but welcome, + and as we saw signs of it almost every time we came opposite a village, we + kept on our way until we came to Murembwe Point, which, being a delta of a + river of the same name, was well protected by a breadth of thorny jungle, + spiky cane, and a thick growth of reed and papyrus, from which the boldest + Mrundi might well shrink, especially if he called to mind that beyond this + inhospitable swamp were the guns of the strangers his like had so rudely + challenged. We drew our canoe ashore here, and, on a limited area of clean + sand, Ferajji, our rough-and-ready cook, lit his fire, and manufactured + for us a supply of most delicious Mocha coffee. Despite the dangers which + still beset us, we were quite happy, and seasoned our meal with a little + moral philosophy, which lifted us unconsciously into infinitely superior + beings to the pagans by whom we were surrounded—upon whom we now + looked down, under the influence of Mocha coffee and moral philosophy, + with calm contempt, not unmixed with a certain amount of compassion. The + Doctor related some experiences he had had among people of similar + disposition, but did not fail to ascribe them, with the wisdom of a man of + ripe experiences, to the unwise conduct of the Arabs and half-castes; in + this opinion I unreservedly concur. + </p> + <p> + From Murembwe Point, having finished our coffee and ended our discourse on + ethics, we proceeded on our voyage, steering for Cape Sentakeyi, which, + though it was eight or ten miles away, we hoped to make before dark. The + Wangwana pulled with right good will, but ten hours went by, and night was + drawing near, and we were still far from Sentakeyi. As it was a fine + moonlight night, and we were fully alive to the dangerous position in + which we might find ourselves, they consented to pull an hour or two more. + About 1 P.M., we pulled in shore for a deserted spot—a clean shelf + of sand, about thirty feet long by ten deep, from which a clay bank rose + about ten or twelve feet above, while on each side there were masses of + disintegrated rock. Here we thought, that by preserving some degree of + silence, we might escape observation, and consequent annoyance, for a few + hours, when, being rested, we might continue our journey. Our kettle was + boiling for tea, and the men had built a little fire for themselves, and + had filled their black earthen pot with water for porridge, when our + look-outs perceived dark forms creeping towards our bivouac. Being hailed, + they at once came forward, and saluted us with the native "Wake." Our + guides explained that we were Wangwana, and intended to camp until + morning, when, if they had anything to sell, we should be glad to trade + with them. They said they were rejoiced to hear this, and after they had + exchanged a few words more—during which time we observed that they + were taking mental notes of the camp—they went away. Upon leaving, + they promised to return in the morning with food, and make friends with + us. While drinking our tea, the look-outs warned us of the approach of a + second party, which went through the same process of saluting and + observing as the first had done. These also went away, over-exuberant, as + I thought, and were shortly succeeded by a third party, who came and went + as the others had. From all this we inferred that the news was spreading + rapidly through the villages about, and we had noticed two canoes passing + backwards and forwards with rather more haste than we deemed usual or + necessary. We had good cause to be suspicious; it is not customary for + people (at least, between Ujiji and Zanzibar) to be about visiting and + saluting after dark, under any pretence; it is not permitted to persons to + prowl about camp after dark without being shot at; and this going backward + and forward, this ostentatious exuberance of joy at the arrival of a small + party of Wangwana, which in many parts of Urundi would be regarded as a + very common event, was altogether very suspicious. While the Doctor and I + were arriving at the conclusion that these movements were preliminary to + or significant of hostility, a fourth body, very boisterous and loud, came + and visited us. Our supper had been by this time despatched, and we + thought it high time to act. The fourth party having gone with extravagant + manifestations of delight, the men were hurried into the canoe, and, when + all were seated, and the look-outs embarked, we quietly pushed off, but + not a moment too soon. As the canoe was gliding from the darkened light + that surrounded us, I called the Doctor's attention to several dark forms; + some of whom were crouching behind the rocks on our right, and others + scrambling over them to obtain good or better positions; at the same time + people were approaching from the left of our position, in the same + suspicious way; and directly a voice hailed us from the top of the clay + bank overhanging the sandy shelf where we had lately been resting. "Neatly + done," cried the Doctor, as we were shooting through the water, leaving + the discomfited would-be robbers behind us. Here, again, my hand was + stayed from planting a couple of good shots, as a warning to them in + future from molesting strangers, by the more presence of the Doctor, who, + as I thought, if it were actually necessary, would not hesitate to give + the word. + </p> + <p> + After pulling six hours more, during which we had rounded Cape Sentakeyi, + we stopped at the small fishing village of Mugeyo, where we were permitted + to sleep unmolested. At dawn we continued our journey, and about 8 A.M. + arrived at the village of the friendly Mutware of Magala. We had pulled + for eighteen hours at a stretch, which, at the rate of two miles and a + half per hour, would make forty-five miles. Taking bearings from our camp + at Cape Magala, one of the most prominent points in travelling north from + Ujiji, we found that the large island of Muzimu, which had been in sight + ever since rounding Cape Bangwe, near Ujiji Bunder, bore about + south-south-west, and that the western shore had considerably approached + to the eastern; the breadth of the lake being at this point about eight or + ten miles. We had a good view of the western highlands, which seemed to be + of an average height, about 3,000 feet above the lake. Luhanga Peak, + rising a little to the north of west from Magala, might be about 500 feet + higher; and Sumburizi, a little north of Luhanga, where lived Mruta, + Sultan of Uvira, the country opposite to this part of Urundi, about 300 + feet higher than the neighbouring heights. Northward from Magala Cape the + lake streamed away between two chains of mountains; both meeting in a + point about thirty miles north of us. + </p> + <p> + The Warundi of Magala were very civil, and profound starers. They flocked + around the tent door, and most pertinaciously gazed on us, as if we were + subjects of most intense interest, but liable to sudden and eternal + departure. The Mutware came to see us late in the afternoon, dressed with + great pomp. He turned out to be a boy whom I had noticed in the crowd of + gazers for his good looks and fine teeth, which he showed, being addicted + to laughing continually. There was no mistaking him, though he was now + decorated with many ivory ornaments, with necklaces, and with heavy brass + bracelets and iron wire anklets. Our admiration of him was reciprocated; + and, in return for our two doti of cloth and a fundo of samsam, he gave a + fine fat and broad-tailed sheep, and a pot of milk. In our condition both + were extremely acceptable. + </p> + <p> + At Magala we heard of a war raging between Mukamba, for whose country we + were bound, and Warumashanya, a Sultan of an adjoining district; and we + were advised that, unless we intended to assist one of these chiefs + against the other, it would be better for us to return. But, as we had + started to solve the problem of the Rusizi River, such considerations had + no weight with us. + </p> + <p> + On the eighth morning from leaving Ujiji we bade farewell to the + hospitable people of Magala, and set off for Mukamba's country, which was + in view. Soon after passing the boundary between Urundi proper, and what + is known as Usige, a storm from the south-west arose; and the fearful + yawing of our canoe into the wave trough warned us from proceeding + further; so we turned her head for Kisuka village, about four miles north, + where Mugere, in Usige, begins. + </p> + <p> + At Kisuka a Mgwana living with Mukamba came to see us, and gave us details + of the war between Mukamba and Warumashanya, from which it seemed that + these two chiefs were continually at loggerheads. It is a tame way of + fighting, after all. One chief makes a raid into the other's country, and + succeeds in making off with a herd of cattle, killing one or two men who + have been surprised. Weeks, or perhaps months elapse before the other + retaliates, and effects a capture in a similar way, and then a balance is + struck in which neither is the gainer. Seldom do they attack each other + with courage and hearty goodwill, the constitution of the African being + decidedly against any such energetic warfare. + </p> + <p> + This Mgwana, further, upon being questioned, gave us information far more + interesting, viz., about the Rusizi. He told us positively, with the air + of a man who knew all about it, and as if anybody who doubted him might + well be set down as an egregious ass, that the Rusizi River flowed out of + the lake, away to Suna's (Mtesa's) country. "Where else could it flow to?" + he asked. The Doctor was inclined to believe it, or, perhaps he was more + inclined to let it rest as stated until our own eyes should confirm it. I + was more inclined to doubt, as I told the Doctor; first, it was too good + to be true; second, the fellow was too enthusiastic upon a subject that + could not possibly interest him. His "Barikallahs" and "Inshallahs" were + far too fervid; his answers too much in accordance with our wishes. The + Doctor laid great stress on the report of a Mgwana he met far south, who + stated that the grandfather or father of Rumanika, present King of + Karagwah, had thought of excavating the bed of the Kitangule River, in + order that his canoes might go to Ujiji to open a trade. From this, I + imagine, coinciding as it did with his often-expressed and present firm + belief that the waters of the Tanganika had an outlet somewhere, the + Doctor was partial to the report of the Mgwana; but as we proceed we shall + see how all this will end. + </p> + <p> + On the ninth morning from Ujiji, about two hours after sunrise, we passed + the broad delta of the Mugere, a river which gives its name also to the + district on the eastern shore ruled over by Mukamba. We had come directly + opposite the most southern of its three mouths, when we found quite a + difference in the colour of the water. An almost straight line, drawn east + and west from the mouth would serve well to mark off the difference that + existed between the waters. On the south side was pure water of a light + green, on the north side it was muddy, and the current could be distinctly + seen flowing north. Soon after passing the first mouth we came to a + second, and then a third mouth, each only a few yards broad, but each + discharging sufficient water to permit our following the line of the + currents several rods north beyond the respective mouths. + </p> + <p> + Beyond the third mouth of the Mugere a bend disclosed itself, with groups + of villages beyond on its bank. These were Mukamba's, and in one of them + lived Mukamba, the chief. The natives had yet never seen a white man, and, + of course, as soon as we landed we were surrounded by a large concourse, + all armed with long spears—the only weapon visible amongst them save + a club-stick, and here and there a hatchet. + </p> + <p> + We were shown into a hut, which the Doctor and I shared between us. What + followed on that day I have but a dim recollection, having been struck + down by fever—the first since leaving Unyanyembe. I dimly recollect + trying to make out what age Mukamba might be, and noting that he was + good-looking withal, and kindly-disposed towards us. And during the + intervals of agony and unconsciousness, I saw, or fancied I saw, + Livingstone's form moving towards me, and felt, or fancied I felt, + Livingstone's hand tenderly feeling my hot head and limbs. I had suffered + several fevers between Bagamoyo and Unyanyembe, without anything or + anybody to relieve me of the tedious racking headache and pain, or to + illumine the dark and gloomy prospect which must necessarily surround the + bedside of the sick and solitary traveller. But though this fever, having + enjoyed immunity from it for three months, was more severe than usual, I + did not much regret its occurrence, since I became the recipient of the + very tender and fatherly kindness of the good man whose companion I now + found myself. + </p> + <p> + The next morning, having recovered slightly from the fever, when Mukamba + came with a present of an ox, a sheep, and a goat, I was able to attend to + the answers which he gave to the questions about the Rusizi River and the + head of the lake. The ever cheerful and enthusiastic Mgwana was there + also, and he was not a whit abashed, when, through him, the chief told us + that the Rusizi, joined by the Ruanda, or Luanda, at a distance of two + days' journey by water, or one day by land from the head of the lake, + flowed INTO the lake. + </p> + <p> + Thus our hopes, excited somewhat by the positive and repeated assurances + that the river flowed out away towards Karagwah, collapsed as speedily as + they were raised. + </p> + <p> + We paid Mukamba the honga, consisting of nine doti and nine fundo of + samsam, lunghio, muzurio n'zige. The printed handkerchiefs, which I had in + abundance at Unyanyembe, would have gone well here. After receiving his + present, the chief introduced his son, a tall youth of eighteen or + thereabouts, to the Doctor, as a would-be son of the Doctor; but, with a + good-natured laugh, the Doctor scouted all such relationship with him, as + it was instituted only for the purpose of drawing more cloth out of him. + Mukamba took it in good part, and did not insist on getting more. + </p> + <p> + Our second evening at Mukamba's, Susi, the Doctor's servant, got + gloriously drunk, through the chief's liberal and profuse gifts of pombe. + Just at dawn neat morning I was awakened by hearing several sharp, + crack-like sounds. I listened, and I found the noise was in our hut. It + was caused by the Doctor, who, towards midnight, had felt some one come + and lie down by his side on the same bed, and, thinking it was me, he had + kindly made room, and laid down on the edge of the bed. But in the + morning, feeling rather cold, he had been thoroughly awakened, and, on + rising on his elbow to see who his bed-fellow was, he discovered, to his + great astonishment, that it was no other than his black servant, Susi, who + taking possession of his blankets, and folding them about himself most + selfishly, was occupying almost the whole bed. The Doctor, with that + gentleness characteristic of him, instead of taking a rod, had contented + himself with slapping Susi on the back, saying, "Get up, Susi, will you? + You are in my bed. How dare you, sir, get drunk in this way, after I have + told you so often not to. Get up. You won't? Take that, and that, and + that." Still Susi slept and grunted; so the slapping continued, until even + Susi's thick hide began to feel it, and he was thoroughly awakened to the + sense of his want of devotion and sympathy for his master in the usurping + of even his master's bed. Susi looked very much crestfallen after this + exposé of his infirmity before the "little master," as I was called. + </p> + <p> + The next day at dusk—Mukamba having come to bid us good-bye, and + requested that as soon as we reached his brother Ruhinga, whose country + was at the head of the lake, we would send our canoe back for him, and + that in the meanwhile we should leave two of our men with him, with their + guns, to help defend him in case Warumashanya should attack him as soon as + we were gone—we embarked and pulled across. In nine hours we had + arrived at the head of the lake in Mugihewa, the country of Ruhinga; + Mukamba's elder brother. In looking back to where we had come from we + perceived that we had made a diagonal cut across from south-east to + north-west, instead of having made a direct east and west course; or, in + other words, from Mugere—which was at least ten miles from the + northernmost point of the eastern shore—we had come to Mugihewa, + situated at the northernmost point of the western shore. Had we continued + along the eastern shore, and so round the northern side of the lake, we + should have passed by Mukanigi, the country of Warumashanya, and Usumbura + of Simveh, his ally and friend. But by making a diagonal course, as just + described, we had arrived at the extreme head of the lake without any + difficulty. + </p> + <p> + The country in which we now found ourselves, Mugihewa, is situated in the + delta of the Rusizi River. It is an extremely flat country, the highest + part of which is not ten feet above the lake, with numerous depressions in + it overgrown with the rankest of matete-grass and the tallest of papyrus, + and pond-like hollows, filled with stagnant water, which emit malaria + wholesale. Large herds of cattle are reared on it; for where the ground is + not covered with marshy plants it produces rich, sweet grass. The sheep + and goats, especially the former, are always in good condition; and though + they are not to be compared with English or American sheep, they are the + finest I have seen in Africa. Numerous villages are seen on this land + because the intervening spaces are not occupied with the rank and + luxuriant jungle common in other parts of Africa. Were it not for the + Euphorbia kolquall of Abyssinia—which some chief has caused to be + planted as a defence round the villages—one might see from one end + of Mugihewa to the other. The waters along the head of the lake, from the + western to the eastern shores, swarm with crocodiles. From the banks, I + counted ten heads of crocodiles, and the Rusizi, we were told, was full of + them. + </p> + <p> + Ruhinga, who came to see us soon after we had taken up our quarters in his + village, was a most amiable man, who always contrived to see something + that excited his risibility; though older by five or six years perhaps—he + said he was a hundred years old—than Mukamba, he was not half so + dignified, nor regarded with so much admiration by his people as his + younger brother. Ruhinga had a better knowledge, however, of the country + than Mukamba, and an admirable memory, and was able to impart his + knowledge of the country intelligently. After he had done the honours as + chief to us—presented us with an ox and a sheep, milk and honey—we + were not backward in endeavouring to elicit as much information as + possible out of him. + </p> + <p> + The summary of the information derived from Ruhinga may be stated as + follows: + </p> + <p> + The country bordering the head of the lake from Urundi proper, on the + eastern shore, to Uvira on the western, is divided into the following + districts: 1st. Mugere, governed by Mukamba, through which issued into the + lake the small rivers of Mugere and Mpanda. 2nd. Mukanigi, governed by + Warumashanya, which occupied the whole of the north-eastern head of the + lake, through which issued into the lake the small rivers of Karindwa and + Mugera wa Kanigi. 3rd. On the eastern half of the district, at the head of + the lake, was Usumbura, governed by Simveh, ally and friend of + Warumashanya, extending to the eastern bank of the Rusizi. 4th. Commencing + from the western bank of the Rusizi, to the extreme north-western head of + the lake, was Mugihewa—Ruhinga's country. 5th. From Uvira on the + west, running north past Mugihewa, and overlapping it on the north side as + far as the hills of Chamati, was Ruwenga, also a country governed by + Mukamba. Beyond Ruwenga, from the hills of Chamati to the Ruanda River, + was the country of Chamati. West of Ruwenga, comprising all the mountains + for two days' journey in that direction, was Uashi. These are the smaller + sub-divisions of what is commonly known as Ruwenga and Usige. Ruwenga + comprises the countries of Ruwenga and Mugihewa; Usige, the countries of + Usumbura, Mukanigi, and Mugere. But all these countries are only part and + parcel of Urundi, which comprises all that country bordering the lake from + Mshala River, on the eastern shore, to Uvira, on the western, extending + over ten days' journey direct north from the head of the lake, and one + month in a northeastern direction to Murukuko, the capital of Mwezi, + Sultan of all Urundi. Direct north of Urundi is Ruanda; also a very large + country. + </p> + <p> + The Rusizi River—according to Ruhinga—rose near a lake called + Kivo, which he said is as long as from Mugihawa to Mugere, and as broad as + from Mugihewa to Warumashanya's country, or, say eighteen miles in length + by about eight in breadth. The lake is surrounded by mountains on the + western and northern sides: on the south-western side of one of these + mountains issues the Rusizi—at first a small rapid stream; but as it + proceeds towards the lake it receives the rivers Kagunissi, Kaburan, + Mohira, Nyamagana, Nyakagunda, Ruviro, Rofubu, Kavimvira, Myove, Ruhuha, + Mukindu, Sange, Rubirizi, Kiriba, and, lastly, the Ruanda River, which + seems to be the largest of them all. Kivo Lake is so called from the + country in which it is situated. On one side is Mutumbi (probably the + Utumbi of Speke and Baker), on the west is Ruanda; on the east is Urundi. + The name of the chief of Kivo is Kwansibura. + </p> + <p> + After so many minute details about the River Rusizi, it only remained for + us to see it. On the second morning of our arrival at Mugihewa we mustered + ten strong paddlers, and set out to explore the head of the lake and the + mouth of the Rusizi. We found that the northern head of the lake was + indented with seven broad bays, each from one and a half to three miles + broad; that long broad spits of sand, overgrown with matete, separated + each bay from the other. The first, starting from west to east, at the + broadest part, to the extreme southern point of Mugihewa, was about three + miles broad, and served as a line of demarcation between Mukamba's + district of Ruwenga and Mugihewa of Ruhinga; it was also two miles deep. + The second bay was a mile from the southern extremity of Mugihewa to + Ruhinga's village at the head of the bay, and it was a mile across to + another spit of sand which was terminated by a small island. The third bay + stretched for nearly a mile to a long spit, at the end of which was + another island, one and a quarter mile in length, and was the western side + of the fourth bay, at the head of which was the delta of the Rusizi. This + fourth bay, at its base, was about three miles in depth, and penetrated + half a mile further inland than any other. Soundings indicated six feet + deep, and the same depth was kept to within a few hundred yards of the + principal mouth of the Rusizi. The current was very sluggish; not more + than a mile an hour. Though we constantly kept our binocular searching for + the river, we could not see the main channel until within 200 yards of it, + and then only by watching by what outlet the fishing; canoes came out. The + bay at this point had narrowed from two miles to about 200 yards in + breadth. Inviting a canoe to show us the way, a small flotilla of canoes + preceded us, from the sheer curiosity of their owners. We followed, and in + a few minutes were ascending the stream, which was very rapid, though but + about ten yards wide, and very shallow; not more than two feet deep. We + ascended about half a mile, the current being very strong, from six to + eight miles an hour, and quite far enough to observe the nature of the + stream at its embouchure. We could see that it widened and spread out in a + myriad of channels, rushing by isolated clumps of sedge and matete grass; + and that it had the appearance of a swamp. We had ascended the central, or + main channel. The western channel was about eight yards broad. We + observed, after we had returned to the bay, that the easternmost channel + was about six yards broad, and about ten feet deep, but very sluggish. We + had thus examined each of its three mouths, and settled all doubts as to + the Rusizi being an effluent or influent. It was not necessary to ascend + higher, there being nothing about the river itself to repay exploration of + it. + </p> + <p> + The question, "Was the Rusizi an effluent or an influent?" was answered + for ever. There was now no doubt any more on that point. In size it was + not to be compared with the Malagarazi River, neither is it, or can it be, + navigable for anything but the smallest canoes. The only thing remarkable + about it is that it abounds in crocodiles, but not one hippopotamus was + seen; which may be taken as another evidence of its shallowness. The bays + to the east of the Rusizi are of the same conformation as those on the + west. Carefully judging from the width of the several bays from point to + point, and of the several spits which separate them, the breadth of the + lake may be said to be about twelve or fourteen miles. Had we contented + ourselves with simply looking at the conformation, and the meeting of the + eastern and western ranges, we should have said that the lake ended in a + point, as Captain Speke has sketched it on his map. But its exploration + dissolved that idea. Chamati Hill is the extreme northern termination of + the western range, and seems, upon a superficial examination, to abut + against the Ramata mountains of the eastern range, which are opposite + Chamati; but a valley about a mile in breadth separates the two ranges, + and through this valley the Rusizi flows towards the lake.* Though Chamati + terminates the western range, the eastern range continues for miles + beyond, north-westerly. After its issue from this broad gorge, the Rusizi + runs seemingly in a broad and mighty stream, through a wide alluvial + plain, its own formation, in a hundred channels, until, approaching the + lake, it flows into it by three channels only, as above described. + ______________ * After the patient investigation of the North end of the + Lake, and satisfying ourselves by personal observation that the Rusizi ran + into the Lake, the native rumor which Sir Samuel Baker brought home that + the Tanganika and the Albert N'Yanza have a water connection still finds + many believers! ______________ + </p> + <p> + I should not omit to state here, that though the Doctor and I have had to + contend against the strong current of the Rusizi River, as it flowed swift + and strong INTO the Tanganika, the Doctor still adheres to the conviction + that, whatever part the Rusizi plays, there must be an outlet to the + Tanganika somewhere, from the fact that all fresh-water lakes have + outlets, The Doctor is able to state his opinions and reasons far better + than I can find for him; and, lest I misconstrue the subject, I shall + leave it until he has an opportunity to explain them himself; which his + great knowledge of Africa will enable him to do with advantage. + </p> + <p> + One thing is evident to me, and I believe to the Doctor, that Sir Samuel + Baker will have to curtail the Albert N'Yanza by one, if not two degrees + of latitude. That well-known traveller has drawn his lake far into the + territory of the Warundi, while Ruanda has been placed on the eastern + side; whereas a large portion of it, if not all, should be placed north of + what he has designated on his map as Usige. The information of such an + intelligent man as Ruhinga is not to be despised; for, if Lake Albert came + within a hundred miles of the Tanganika, he would surely have heard of its + existence, even if he had not seen it himself. Originally he came from + Mutumbi, and he has travelled from that country into Mugihewa, the + district he now governs. He has seen Mwezi, the great King of Urundi, and + describes him as a man about forty years old, and as a very good man. + </p> + <p> + Our work was now done; there was nothing more to detain us at Mugihewa. + Ruhinga had been exceedingly kind, and given us one ox after another to + butcher and eat. Mukamba had done the same. Their women had supplied us + with an abundance of milk and butter, and we had now bounteous supplies of + both. + </p> + <p> + The Doctor had taken a series of observations for latitude and longitude; + and Mugihewa was made out to be in 3 degrees 19 minutes S. latitude. + </p> + <p> + On the 7th December, early in the morning, we left Mugihewa, and rowing + past the southern extremity of the Katangara Islands, we approached the + highlands of Uashi near the boundary line between Mukamba's country and + Uvira. The boundary line is supposed to be a wide ravine, in the depths of + which is a grove of tall, beautiful, and straight-stemmed trees, out of + which the natives make their canoes. + </p> + <p> + Passing Kanyamabengu River, which issues into the lake close to the + market-ground of Kirabula, the extreme point of Burton and Speke's + explorations of the Tanganika, we steered south along the western shore of + the lake for half an hour longer to Kavimba, where we halted to cook + breakfast. + </p> + <p> + The village where lived Mruta, the King of Uvira, was in sight of our + encampment, and as we observed parties of men ascending and descending the + mountains much more often than we thought augured good to ourselves, we + determined to continue on our course south. Besides, there was a party of + disconsolate-looking Wajiji here, who had been plundered only a few days + before our arrival, for attempting, as the Wavira believed, to evade the + honga payment. Such facts as these, and our knowledge of the general state + of insecurity in the country, resulting from the many wars in which the + districts of the Tanganika were engaged, determined us not to halt at + Kavimba. + </p> + <p> + We embarked quickly in our boat before the Wavira had collected + themselves, and headed south against a strong gale, which came driving + down on us from the south-west. After a hard pull of about two hours in + the teeth of the storm, which was rapidly rising, we pointed the head of + the boat into a little quiet cove, almost hidden in tall reeds, and + disembarked for the night. + </p> + <p> + Cognizant of the dangers which surrounded us, knowing, that savage and + implacable man was the worst enemy we had to fear, we employed our utmost + energies in the construction of a stout fence of thorn bushes, and then + sat down to supper after our work was done, and turned in to sleep; but + not before we had posted watchmen to guard our canoe, lest the daring + thieves of Uvira might abstract it, in which case we should have been in a + pretty plight, and in most unenviable distress. + </p> + <p> + At daybreak, leaving Kukumba Point after our humble breakfast of coffee, + cheese, and dourra cakes was despatched, we steered south once more. Our + fires had attracted the notice of the sharp-eyed and suspicious fishermen + of Kukumba; but our precautions and the vigilant watch we had set before + retiring, had proved an effectual safeguard against the Kivira thieves. + </p> + <p> + The western shores of the lake as we proceeded were loftier, and more bold + than the wooded heights of Urundi and bearded knolls of Ujiji. A back + ridge—the vanguard of the mountains which rise beyond—disclosed + itself between the serrated tops of the front line of mountains, which + rose to a height of from 2,500 to 3,000 feet above the lake. Within the + folds of the front line of mountains rise isolated hills of considerable + magnitude, precipitous and abrupt, but scenically very picturesque. The + greater part of these hills have the rounded and smooth top, or are + tabularly summited. The ridge enfolding these hills shoots out, at + intervals, promontorial projections of gradual sloping outlines, which on + the map I have designated capes, or points. When rounding these points, up + went our compasses for the taking of bearings, and observing the + directions of all prominent objects of interest. Often these capes are + formed by the alluvial plains, through which we may be sure a river will + be found flowing. These pretty alluvial plains, enfolded on the south, the + west, and the north by a grand mountain arc, present most luxurious and + enchanting scenery. The vegetation seems to be of spontaneous growth. + Groups of the Elaeis Guineansis palm embowering some dun-brown village; an + array of majestic, superb growth of mvule trees; a broad extent covered + with vivid green sorghum stalks; parachute-like tops of mimosa; a line of + white sand, on which native canoes are drawn far above the reach of the + plangent, uneasy surf; fishermen idly reclining in the shade of a tree;—these + are the scenes which reveal themselves to us as we voyage in our canoe on + the Tanganika. When wearied with the romance of wild tropic scenes such as + these, we have but to lift our eyes to the great mountain tops looming + darkly and grandly on our right; to watch the light pencilling of the + cirrus, brushing their summits, as it is drifted toward the north by the + rising wind: to watch the changing forms which the clouds assume, from the + fleecy horizontal bars of the cirrus, to the denser, gloomier cumulus, + prognosticator of storm and rain, which soon settles into a portentous + group—Alps above Alps, one above another—and we know the storm + which was brewing is at hand, and that it is time to seek shelter. + </p> + <p> + Passing Muikamba, we saw several groves of the tall mvule tree. As far as + Bemba the Wabembe occupy the mountain summits, while the Wavira cultivate + the alluvial plains along the base and lower slopes of the mountain. At + Bemba we halted to take in pieces of pipe-clay, in accordance with the + superstition of the Wajiji, who thought us certain of safe passage and + good fortune if we complied with the ancient custom. + </p> + <p> + Passing Ngovi, we came to a deep bend, which curved off to Cape Kabogi at + the distance of ten miles. About two-thirds of the way we arrived at a + group of islets, three in number, all very steep and rocky; the largest + about 300 feet in length at the base, and about 200 feet in breadth. Here + we made preparations to halt for the night. The inhabitants of the island + were a gorgeously-feathered old cock, which was kept as a propitiatory + offering to the spirit of the island, a sickly yellow-looking thrush, a + hammer-headed stork, and two fish-hawks, who, finding we had taken + possession of what had been religiously reserved for them, took flight to + the most western island, where from their perches they continued to eye us + most solemnly. As these islands were with difficulty pronounced by us as + Kavunvweh, the Doctor, seeing that they were the only objects we were + likely to discover, named them the "'New York Herald' Islets;" and, in + confirmation of the new designation given them, shook hands with me upon + it. Careful dead-reckoning settled them to be in lat. 3 degrees 41 minutes + S. + </p> + <p> + The summit of the largest island was well adapted to take bearings, and we + improved the opportunity, as most extensive views of the broad and lengthy + lake and surrounding lines of imposing mountains were attainable. The + Ramata Hills were clearly visible, and bore N.N.E. from it; Katanga Cape, + S.E. by S.; Sentakeyi, E.S.E.; Magala, E. by N.; south-western point of + Muzimu bore S., northern point of Muzimu island, S.S.E. + </p> + <p> + At dawn on the 9th December we prepared to resume our voyage. Once or + twice in the night we had been visited by fishermen, but our anxious + watchfulness prevented any marauding. It seemed to me, however, that the + people of the opposite shore, who were our visitors, were eagerly watching + an opportunity to pounce upon our canoe, or take us bodily for a prey; and + our men were considerably affected by these thoughts, if we may judge from + the hearty good-will with which they rowed away from our late encampment. + </p> + <p> + Arriving at Cape Kabogi, we came to the territory of the Wasansi. We knew + we were abreast of a different tribe by the greeting "Moholo," which a + group of fishermen gave us; as that of the Wavira was "Wake," like that of + Urundi, Usige, and Uhha. + </p> + <p> + We soon sighted Cape Luvumba—a sloping projection of a mountain + ridge which shot far into the lake. As a storm was brewing, we steered for + a snug little cove that appeared before a village; and, drawing our canoe + from the water, began to set the tent, and make other preparations for + passing the night. + </p> + <p> + As the natives appeared quiet and civil enough, we saw no reason to + suspect that they entertained any hostility to Arabs and Wangwana. + Accordingly we had our breakfast cooked, and as usual laid down for an + afternoon nap. I soon fell asleep, and was dreaming away in my tent, in + happy oblivion of the strife and contention that had risen since I had + gone to sleep, when I heard a voice hailing me with, "Master, master! get + up, quick. Here is a fight going to begin!" I sprang up, and snatching my + revolver belt from the gun-stand, walked outside. Surely, there appeared + to be considerable animus between the several factions; between a noisy, + vindictive-looking set of natives of the one part, and our people of the + other part. Seven or eight of our people had taken refuge behind the + canoe, and had their loaded guns half pointing at the passionate mob, + which was momentarily increasing in numbers, but I could not see the + Doctor anywhere. + </p> + <p> + "Where is the Doctor?" I asked. + </p> + <p> + "He has gone over that hill, sir, with his compass," said Selim. + </p> + <p> + "Anybody with him?" + </p> + <p> + "Susi and Chumah." + </p> + <p> + "You, Bombay, send two men off to warn the Doctor, and tell him to hurry + up here." + </p> + <p> + But just at this period the Doctor and his two men appeared on the brow of + the hill, looking down in a most complacent manner upon the serio-comic + scene that the little basin wherein we were encamped presented. For, + indeed, despite the serious aspect of it, there was much that was comical + blended with it—in a naked young man who—perfectly drunk, + barely able to stand on his feet—was beating the ground with his + only loin-cloth, screaming and storming away like a madman; declaring by + this, and by that, in his own choice language, that no Mgwana or Arab + should halt one moment on the sacred soil of Usansi. His father, the + Sultan, was as inebriated as himself, though not quite so violent in his + behaviour. In the meantime the Doctor arrived upon the scene, and Selim + had slipped my Winchester rifle, with the magazine full of cartridges, + into my hand. The Doctor calmly asked what was the matter, and was + answered by the Wajiji guides that the people wished us to leave, as they + were on hostile terms with the Arabs, because the eldest son of the Sultan + of Muzimu, the large island nearly opposite, had been beaten to death by a + Baluch, named Khamis, at Ujiji, because the young fellow had dared look + into his harem, and ever since peace had been broken between the Wasansi + and Arabs. + </p> + <p> + After consulting with the guides, the Doctor and I came to the conclusion + that it were better that we should endeavour to pacify the Sultan by a + present, rather than take offence at a drunken boy's extravagant freak. In + his insane fury he had attempted to slash at one of my men with a billhook + he carried. This had been taken as a declaration of hostilities, and the + soldiers were ready enough to engage in war; but there was no necessity to + commence fighting with a drunken mob, who could have been cleared off the + ground with our revolvers alone had we desired it. + </p> + <p> + The Doctor, baring his arm, said to them that he was not a Mgwana, or an + Arab; but a white man; that Arabs and Wangwana had no such colour as we + had. We were white men, different people altogether from those whom they + were accustomed to see: that no black men had ever suffered injury from + white men. This seemed to produce great effect, for after a little gentle + persuasion the drunken youth, and his no less inebriate sire, were induced + to sit down to talk quietly. In their conversation with us, they + frequently referred to Mombo, the son of Kisesa, Sultan of Muzimu, who was + brutally murdered. "Yes, brutally murdered!" they exclaimed several times, + in their own tongue; illustrating, by a faithful pantomime, how the + unfortunate youth had died. + </p> + <p> + Livingstone continued talking with them in a mild, paternal way, and their + loud protestations against Arab cruelty were about to subside, when the + old Sultan suddenly rose up and began to pace about in an excited manner, + and in one of his perambulations deliberately slashed his leg with the + sharp blade of his spear, and then exclaimed that the Wangwana had wounded + him! + </p> + <p> + At this cry one half of the mob hastily took to flight, but one old woman, + who carried a strong staff with a carved lizard's body on its top, + commenced to abuse the chief with all the power of her voluble tongue, + charging him with a desire to have them all killed, and other women joined + in with her in advising him to be quiet, and accept the present we were + willing to give. + </p> + <p> + But it is evident that there was little needed to cause all men present in + that little hollow to begin a most sanguinary strife. The gentle, patient + bearing of the Doctor had more effect than anything else in making all + forbear bloodshed, while there was left the least chance of an amicable + settlement, and in the end it prevailed. The Sultan and his son were both + sent on their way rejoicing. + </p> + <p> + While the Doctor conversed with them, and endeavoured to calm their fierce + passions, I had the tent struck, and the canoes launched, and the baggage + stowed, and when the negotiations had concluded amicably, I begged the + Doctor to jump into the boat, as this apparent peace was simply a lull + before a storm; besides, said I, there are two or three cowardly creatures + in the boat, who, in case of another disturbance, would not scruple to + leave both of us here. + </p> + <p> + From Cape Luvumba, about 4.30 P.M. we commenced pulling across; at 8 P.M. + we were abreast of Cape Panza, the northern extremity of the island of + Muzimu; at 6 A.M. we were southward of Bikari, and pulling for Mukungu, in + Urundi, at which place we arrived at 10 A.M., having been seventeen hours + and a half in crossing the lake, which, computing at two miles an hour, + may be said to be thirty-five miles direct breadth, and a little more than + forty-three miles from Cape Luvumba. + </p> + <p> + On the 11th of December, after seven hours' pulling, we arrived at + picturesque Zassi again; on the 12th, at the pretty cove of Niasanga; and + at 11 A.M. we had rounded past Bangwe, and Ujiji was before us. + </p> + <p> + We entered the port very quietly, without the usual firing of guns, as we + were short of powder and ball. As we landed, our soldiers and the Arab + magnates came to the water's edge to greet us. + </p> + <p> + Mabruki had a rich budget to relate to us, of what had occurred during our + absence. This faithful man, left behind in charge of Livingstone's house, + had done most excellently. Kalulu had scalded himself, and had a frightful + raw sore on his chest in consequence. Mabruki had locked up Marora in + chains for wounding one of the asses. Bilali, the stuttering coward, a + bully of women, had caused a tumult in the market-place, and had been + sharply belaboured with the stick by Mabruki. And, above all most welcome, + was a letter I received from the American Consul at Zanzibar, dated June + 11th, containing telegrams from Paris as late as April 22nd of the same + year! Poor Livingstone exclaimed, "And I have none. What a pleasant thing + it is to have a real and good friend!" + </p> + <p> + Our voyage on the Tanganika had lasted twenty-eight days, during which + time we had traversed over 300 miles of water. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0014" id="link2HCH0014"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XIV. — OUR JOURNEY FROM UJIJI TO UNYANYEMBE. + </h2> + <p> + We felt quite at home when we sat down on our black bear-skin, gay Persian + carpet and clean new mats, to rest with our backs to the wall, sipping our + tea with the air of comfortable men, and chat over the incidents of the + "picnic," as Livingstone persisted in calling our journey to the Rusizi. + It seemed as if old times, which we loved to recall, had come back again, + though our house was humble enough in its aspect, and our servants were + only naked barbarians; but it was near this house that I had met him—Livingstone—after + that eventful march from Unyanyembe; it was on this same veranda that I + listened to that wonderful story of his about those far, enchanting + regions west of the Lake Tanganika; it was in this same spot that I first + became acquainted with him; and ever since my admiration has been growing + for him, and I feel elated when he informs me that he must go to + Unyanyembe under my escort, and at my expense. The old mud walls and the + bare rafters, and the ancient thatched roof, and this queer-looking old + veranda, will have an historical interest for me while I live, and so, + while I can, I have taken pains and immortalized the humble old building + by a sketch. + </p> + <p> + I have just said that my admiration for Livingstone has been growing. This + is true. The man that I was about to interview so calmly and complacently, + as I would interview any prominent man with the view of specially + delineating his nature, or detailing his opinions, has conquered me. I had + intended to interview him, report in detail what he said, picture his life + and his figure, then bow him my "au revoir," and march back. That he was + specially disagreeable and brusque in his manner, which would make me + quarrel with him immediately, was firmly fixed in my mind. + </p> + <p> + But Livingstone—true, noble Christian, generous-hearted, frank man—acted + like a hero, invited me to his house, said he was glad to see me, and got + well on purpose to prove the truth of his statement, "You have brought new + life unto me;" and when I fell sick with the remittent fever, hovering + between life and death, he attended me like a father, and we have now been + together for more than a month. + </p> + <p> + Can you wonder, then, that I like this man, whose face is the reflex of + his nature, whose heart is essentially all goodness, whose aims are so + high, that I break out impetuously sometimes: "But your family, Doctor, + they would like to see you, oh! so much. Let me tempt you to come home + with me. I promise to carry you every foot of the way to the coast. You + shall have the finest donkey to ride that is in Unyanyembe. Your wants—you + have but to hint them, and they shall be satisfied. Let the sources of the + Nile go—do you come home and rest; then, after a year's rest, and + restored health, you can return and finish what you have to do." + </p> + <p> + But ever the answer was, "No, I should like to see my family very much + indeed. My children's letters affect me intensely; but I must not go home; + I must finish my task. It is only the want of supplies that has detained + me. I should have finished the discovery of the Nile by this, by tracing + it to its connection with either Baker's Lake, or Petherick's branch of + the Nile. If I had only gone one month further, I could have said, 'the + work is done."' + </p> + <p> + Some of these men who had turned the Doctor back from his interesting + discoveries were yet in Ujiji, and had the Government Enfield rifles in + their hands, which they intended to retain until their wages had been paid + to them; but as they had received $60 advance each at Zanzibar from the + English Consul, with the understanding entered into by contract that they + should follow their master wherever he required them to go; and as they + had not only not gone where they were required to proceed with him, but + had baffled and thwarted him, it was preposterous that a few men should + triumph over the Doctor, by keeping the arms given to him by the Bombay + Government. I had listened to the Arab sheikhs, friends of the Doctor, + advising them in mild tones to give them up; I had witnessed the + mutineer's stubbornness; and it was then, on the burzani of Sayd bin + Majid's house, that I took advantage to open my mind on the subject, not + only for the benefit of the stubborn slaves, but also for the benefit of + the Arabs; and to tell them that it was well that I had found Livingstone + alive, for if they had but injured a hair of his head, I should have gone + back to the coast, to return with a party which would enable me to avenge + him. I had been waiting to see Livingstone's guns returned to him every + day, hoping that I should not have to use force; but when a month or more + had elapsed, and still the arms had not been returned, I applied for + permission to take them, which was granted. Susi, the gallant servant of + Dr. Livingstone, was immediately despatched with about a dozen armed men + to recover them, and in a few minutes we had possession of them without + further trouble. + </p> + <p> + The Doctor had resolved to accompany me to Unyanyembe, in order to meet + his stores, which had been forwarded from Zanzibar, November 1st, 1870. As + I had charge of the escort, it was my duty to study well the several + routes to Unyanyembe from Ujiji. I was sufficiently aware of the + difficulties and the responsibilities attached to me while escorting such + a man. Besides, my own personal feelings were involved in the case. If + Livingstone came to any harm through any indiscretion of mine while he was + with me, it would immediately be said, "Ah! had he not accompanied + Stanley, he would have been alive now." + </p> + <p> + I took out my chart—the one I had made myself—in which I had + perfect faith, and I sketched out a route which would enable us to reach + Unyanyembe without paying a single cloth as tribute, and without + encountering any worse thing than a jungle, by which we could avoid all + the Wavinza and the plundering Wahha. This peaceable, secure route led by + water, south, along the coast of Ukaranga and Ukawendi, to Cape Tongwe. + Arriving at Cape Tongwe, I should be opposite the village of Itaga, Sultan + Imrera, in the district of Rusawa of Ukawendi; after which we should + strike my old road, which I had traversed from Unyanyembe, when bound for + Ujiji. I explained it to the Doctor, and he instantly recognised its + feasibility and security; and if I struck Imrera, as I proposed to do, it + would demonstrate whether my chart was correct or not. + </p> + <p> + We arrived at Ujiji from our tour of discovery, north of the Tanganika, + December 13th; and from this date the Doctor commenced writing his letters + to his numerous friends, and to copy into his mammoth Letts's Diary, from + his field books, the valuable information he had acquired during his years + of travel south and west of the Tanganika. I sketched him while sitting in + his shirt-sleeves in the veranda, with his Letts's Diary on his knee; and + the likeness on the frontispiece is an admirable portrait of him, because + the artist who has assisted me, has with an intuitive eye, seen the + defects in my own sketch; and by this I am enabled to restore him to the + reader's view exactly as I saw him—as he pondered on what he had + witnessed during his long marches. + </p> + <p> + Soon after my arrival at Ujiji, he had rushed to his paper, and indited a + letter to James Gordon Bennett, Esq., wherein he recorded his thanks; and + after he had finished it, I asked him to add the word "Junior" to it, as + it was young Mr. Bennett to whom he was indebted. I thought the letter + admirable, and requested the Doctor not to add another word to it. The + feelings of his heart had found expression in the grateful words he had + written; and if I judged Mr. Bennett rightly, I knew he would be satisfied + with it. For it was not the geographical news he cared so much about, as + the grand fact of Livingstone's being alive or dead. + </p> + <p> + In this latter part of December he was writing letters to his children, to + Sir Roderick Murchison, and to Lord Granville. He had intended to have + written to the Earl of Clarendon, but it was my sad task to inform him of + the death of that distinguished nobleman. + </p> + <p> + In the meantime I was preparing the Expedition for its return march to + Unyanyembe, apportioning the bales and luggage, the Doctor's large tin + boxes, and my own among my own men; for I had resolved upon permitting the + Doctor's men to march as passengers, because they had so nobly performed + their duty to their master. + </p> + <p> + Sayd bin Majid had left, December 12, for Mirambo's country, to give the + black Bonaparte battle for the murder of his son Soud in the forests of + Wilyankuru; and he had taken with him 300 stout fellows, armed with guns, + from Ujiji. The stout-hearted old chief was burning with rage and + resentment, and a fine warlike figure he made with his 7-foot gun. Before + we had departed for the Rusizi, I had wished him bon voyage, and expressed + a hope that he would rid the Central African world of the tyrant Mirambo. + </p> + <p> + On the 20th of December the rainy season was ushered in with heavy rain, + thunder, lightning, and hail; the thermometer falling to 66 degrees + Fahrenheit. The evening of this day I was attacked with urticaria, or + "nettle rash," for the third time since arriving in Africa, and I suffered + a woeful sickness; and it was the forerunner of an attack of remittent + fever, which lasted four days. This is the malignant type, which has + proved fatal to so many African travellers on the Zambezi, the White Nile, + the Congo, and the Niger. The head throbs, the pulses bound, the heart + struggles painfully, while the sufferer's thoughts are in a strange world, + such only as a sick man's fancy can create. This was the fourth attack of + fever since the day I met Livingstone. The excitement of the march, and + the high hope which my mind constantly nourished, had kept my body almost + invincible against an attack of fever while advancing towards Ujiji; but + two weeks after the great event had transpired my energies were relaxed, + my mind was perfectly tranquil, and I became a victim. + </p> + <p> + Christmas came, and the Doctor and I had resolved upon the blessed and + time-honoured day being kept as we keep it in Anglo-Saxon lands, with a + feast such as Ujiji could furnish us. The fever had quite gone from me the + night before, and on Christmas morning, though exceedingly weak, I was up + and dressed, and lecturing Ferajji, the cook, upon the importance of this + day to white men, and endeavouring to instil into the mind of the sleek + and pampered animal some cunning secrets of the culinary art. Fat + broad-tailed sheep, goats, zogga and pombe, eggs, fresh milk, plantains, + singwe, fine cornflour, fish, onions, sweet potatoes, &c., &c., + were procured in the Ujiji market, and from good old Moeni Kheri. But, + alas! for my weakness. Ferajji spoiled the roast, and our custard was + burned—the dinner was a failure. That the fat-brained rascal escaped + a thrashing was due only to my inability to lift my hands for punishment; + but my looks were dreadful and alarming, and capable of annihilating any + one except Ferajji. The stupid, hard-headed cook only chuckled, and I + believe he had the subsequent gratification of eating the pies, custards, + and roast that his carelessness had spoiled for European palates. + </p> + <p> + Sayd bin Majid, previous to his departure, had left orders that we should + be permitted to use his canoe for our homeward trip, and Moeni Kheri + kindly lent his huge vessel for the same purpose. The Expedition, now + augmented by the Doctor and his five servants, and their luggage, + necessitated the employment of another canoe. We had our flocks of + milch-goats and provision of fat sheep for the jungle of Ukawendi, the + transit of which I was about to attempt. Good Halimah, Livingstone's cook, + had made ready a sackful of fine flour, such as she only could prepare in + her fond devotion for her master. Hamoydah, her husband, also had freely + given his assistance and attention to this important article of food. I + purchased a donkey for the Doctor, the only one available in Ujiji, lest + the Doctor might happen to suffer on the long march from his ancient + enemy. In short, we were luxuriously furnished with food, sheep, goats, + cheese, cloth, donkeys, and canoes, sufficient to convey us a long + distance; we needed nothing more. + </p> + <p> + The 27th of December has arrived; it is the day of our departure from + Ujiji. I was probably about to give an eternal farewell to the port whose + name will for ever be sacred in my memory. The canoes—great + lumbering hollow trees—are laden with good things; the rowers are in + their places; the flag of England is hoisted at the stern of the Doctor's + canoe; the flag of America waves and rustles joyously above mine; and I + cannot look at them without feeling a certain pride that the two + Anglo-Saxon nations are represented this day on this great inland sea, in + the face of wild nature and barbarism. + </p> + <p> + We are escorted to our boats by the great Arab merchants, by the admiring + children of Unyamwezi, by the freemen of Zanzibar, by wondering Waguhha + and Wajiji, by fierce Warundi, who are on this day quiet, even sorrowful, + that the white men are going-"Whither?" they all ask. + </p> + <p> + At 8 A.M. we start, freely distributing our farewells as the Arabs and + quidnuncs wave their hands. On the part of one or two of them there was an + attempt to say something sentimental and affecting, especially by the + convicted sinner Mohammed bin Sali; but though outwardly I manifested no + disapprobation of his words, or of the emphatic way in which he shook my + hand, I was not sorry to see the last of him, after his treachery to + Livingstone in 1869. I was earnestly requested to convey to Unyanyembe + "Mengi salaams" to everybody, but had I done so, as he evidently desired + me to do, I would not have been surprised at being regarded by all as + hopelessly imbecile. + </p> + <p> + We pushed off from the clayey bank at the foot of the market-place, while + the land party, unencumbered with luggage, under the leadership of + gigantic Asmani and Bombay, commenced their journey southward along the + shores of the lake. We had arranged to meet them at the mouth of every + river to transport them across from bank to bank. + </p> + <p> + The Doctor being in Sayd bin Majid's boat, which was a third or so shorter + than the one under my command, took the lead, with the British flag, held + aloft by a bamboo, streaming behind like a crimson meteor. My boat-manned + by Wajiji sailors, whom we had engaged to take the canoes back from Tongwe + Cape to Ujiji Bunder—came astern, and had a much taller flagstaff, + on which was hoisted the ever-beautiful Stars and Stripes. Its extreme + height drew from the Doctor—whose patriotism and loyalty had been + excited—the remark that he would cut down the tallest palmyra for + his flagstaff, as it was not fitting that the British flag should be so + much lower than that of the United States. + </p> + <p> + Our soldiers were not a whit behind us in lightheartedness at the thought + of going to Unyanyembe. They struck up the exhilarating song of the + Zanzibar boatmen, with the ecstatic chorus— + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Kinan de re re Kitunga, +</pre> + <p> + rowing away like madmen, until they were compelled to rest from sheer + exhaustion, while the perspiration exuded from the pores of their bodies + in streams. When refreshed, they bent back to their oars, raising the song + of the Mrima— + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + O mama, re de mi Ky, +</pre> + <p> + which soon impelled them to an extravagant effort again, It was by this + series of ferocious spurts, racing, shouting, singing, perspiring, + laughing, groaning, and puffing, that our people vented their joyous + feelings, as the thought filled their minds that we were homeward bound, + and that by the route I had adopted between us and Unyanyembe there was + not the least danger. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + We have given the Waha, the slip! ha, ha! + The Wavinza will trouble us no more! ho! ho! + Mionvu can get no more cloth from us! by,by! + And Kiala will see us no more—-never more! he, he! +</pre> + <p> + they shouted with wild bursts of laughter, seconded by tremendous and + rapid strokes with their oars, which caused the stiff old canoes to quiver + from stem to stern. + </p> + <p> + Our party ashore seemed to partake of our excitement, and joined in the + wild refrain of the mad African song. We watched them urging their steps + forward to keep pace with us, as we rounded the capes and points, and + rowed across the bays whose margins were sedge, and rush, and reed; the + tiny and agile Kalulu, little Bilali, and Majwara were seen racing the + herds of goats, sheep, and donkeys which belonged to the caravan, and the + animals even seemed to share the general joy. + </p> + <p> + Nature, also—proud, wild nature-0-with the lofty azure dome upheaved + into infinity—with her breadth and depth of vivid greenness and + enormous vastness on our left—with her immense sheet of bright, + glancing water—with her awful and intense serenity—she partook + of and added to our joy. + </p> + <p> + About 10 A.M. we arrived at Kirindo's, an old chief, noted for his + singular kindness to Dr. Livingstone, while he bore animosity to the + Arabs. To the Arabs this was unaccountable—to the Doctor it was + plain: he had but spoken kind and sincere words, while all the Arabs spoke + to him as if he were not even a man, least of all a chief. + </p> + <p> + Kirindo's place is at the mouth of the Liuche, which is very wide; the + river oozes out through a forest of eschinomenae (pith tree). This was a + rendezvous agreed upon between shore and lake parties, that the canoes + might all cross to the other side, distant a mile and a half. The mouth of + the Liuche forms the Bay of Ukaranga, so named because on the other side, + whither we were about to cross our party, was situated the village of + Ukaranga, a few hundred yards from the lake. All the baggage was taken out + of the largest canoe, and stowed snugly in the smaller one, and a few + select oarsmen having taken seats, pushed off with the Doctor on board, + who was to superintend pitching the encampment at Ukaranga; while I + remained behind to bind the fractious and ill-natured donkeys, and stow + them away in the bottom of the large canoe, that no danger of upsetting + might be incurred, and a consequent gobbling-up by hungry crocodiles, + which were all about us waiting their opportunity. The flock of goats were + then embarked, and as many of our people as could be got in. About thirty + still remained behind with myself, for whom my canoe was to return. + </p> + <p> + We all arrived safe at Ukaranga, though we got dangerously near a herd of + hippopotami. The crossing of the wide mouth (the Liuche being then in + flood) was effected in about four hours. + </p> + <p> + The next day, in the same order as on our departure from Ujiji, we pursued + our way south, the lake party keeping as closely as possible to the shore, + yet, when feasible, wind and weather permitting, we struck off boldly + across the numerous small bays which indent the shores of the Tanganika. + The shores were beautifully green, the effect of the late rains; the + waters of the lake were a faithful reflex of the blue firmament above. The + hippopotami were plentiful. Those noticed on this day were coloured with + reddish rings round the base of their ears and on the neck. One monster, + coming up rather late, was surprised by the canoe making full for him, and + in great fright took a tremendous dive which showed the whole length of + his body. Half way between the mouth of the Malagarazi and that of the + Liuche we saw a camp on shore—that of Mohammed bin Gharib, a + Msawahili, who figured often in Livingstone's verbal narrative to me of + his adventures and travels as one of the kindest and best of the Moslems + in Central Africa. He appeared to me a kindly disposed man, with a face + seldom seen, having the stamp of an unusual characteristic on it—that + of sincerity. + </p> + <p> + The vegetation of the shores as we proceeded was truly tropical, each + curve revealed new beauties. With the soft chalky stone, of which most of + the cliffs and bluffs are made, seen as we neared the mouth of the + Malagarazi, the surf has played strange freaks. + </p> + <p> + We arrived at the mouth of the Malagarazi about P.M., having rowed + eighteen miles from Ukaranga. The shore party arrived, very much fatigued, + about 5 P.M. + </p> + <p> + The next day was employed in crossing the caravan across the broad mouth + of the Malagarazi to our camp, a couple of miles north of the river. This + is a river which a civilised community would find of immense advantage for + shortening the distance between the Tanganika and the coast. Nearly one + hundred miles might be performed by this river, which is deep enough at + all seasons to allow navigation as far as Kiala, in Uvinza, whence a + straight road might be easily made to Unyanyembe. Missionaries also might + reap the same benefit from it for conversion-tours to Uvinza, Uhha, and + Ugala. Pursuing our way on the 30th, and rounding the picturesque capes of + Kagongo, Mviga and Kivoe, we came, after about three hours' rowing, in + sight of villages at the mouth of the swift and turbid Rugufu. Here we had + again to transport the caravan ever the crocodile-infested mouth of the + river. + </p> + <p> + On the morning of the 31st we sent a canoe with men to search for food in + the two or three villages that were visible on the other side. Four doti + purchased just sufficient for four days for our caravan of forty-eight + persons. We then got under weigh, having informed the kirangozi that + Urimba was our destination, and bidding him keep as closely as possible to + the lake shore, where it was practicable, but if not, to make the best he + could of it. From the debouchement of the Rugufu, the headwaters of which + we had crossed on our random route to Ujiji, to Urimba, a distance of six + days by water, there are no villages, and consequently no food. The shore + party, however, before leaving Ujiji, had eight days' rations, and on this + morning four days', distributed to each person, and therefore was in no + danger of starvation should the mountain headlands, now unfolding, abrupt + and steep, one after another, prevent them from communicating with us. It + must be understood that such a journey as this had never been attempted + before by any Arab or Msawahili, and every step taken was in sheer + ignorance of where the road would lead the men ashore. Rounding Kivoe's + steep promontory, whose bearded ridge and rugged slope, wooded down to the + water's edge, whose exquisite coves and quiet recesses, might well have + evoked a poetical effusion to one so inclined, we dared the chopping waves + of Kivoe's bay, and stood direct for the next cape, Mizohazy, behind + which, owing to wind and wave, we were compelled to halt for the night. + </p> + <p> + After Mizohazy is the bold cape of Kabogo—not the terrible Kabogo + around whose name mystery has been woven by the superstitious natives—not + the Kabogo whose sullen thunder and awful roar were heard when crossing + the Rugufu on our flight from the Wahha—-but a point in Ukaranga, on + whose hard and uninviting rocks many a canoe has been wrecked. We passed + close to its forbidding walls, thankful for the calm of the Tanganika. + Near Kabogo are some very fine mvule trees, well adapted for canoe + building, and there are no loud-mouthed natives about to haggle for the + privilege of cutting them. + </p> + <p> + Along the water's edge, and about three feet above it, was observed very + clearly on the smooth face of the rocky slopes of Kabogo the high-water + mark of the lake. This went to show that the Tanganika, during the rainy + season, rises about three feet above its dry season level, and that, + during the latter season, evaporation reduces it to its normal level. The + number of rivers which we passed on this journey enabled me to observe + whether, as I was told, there was any current setting north. It was + apparent to me that, while the south-west, south, or south-east winds + blew, the brown flood of the rivers swept north; but it happened that, + while passing, once or twice, the mouths of rivers, after a puff from the + north-west and north, that the muddied waters were seen southward of the + mouths; from which I conclude that there is no current in the Tanganika + except such as is caused by the fickle wind. + </p> + <p> + Finding a snug nook of a bay at a place called Sigunga, we put in for + lunch. An island at the mouth of the bay suggested to our minds that this + was a beautiful spot for a mission station; the grandly sloping hills in + the background, with an undulating shelf of land well-wooded between them + and the bay, added to the attractions of such a spot. The island, capable + of containing quite a large village, and perfectly defensible, might, for + prudence' sake, contain the mission and its congregation; the landlocked + bay would protect their fishery and trade vessels; more than sustain a + hundred times the number of the population of the island. Wood for + building their canoes and houses is close at hand; the neighbouring + country would afford game in abundance; and the docile and civil people of + Ukaranga but wait religious shepherds. + </p> + <p> + From beautiful Sigunga, after a brief halt, we set off, and, after three + hours, arrived at the mouth of the River Uwelasia. Hippopotami and + crocodiles being numerous; we amused ourselves by shooting at them, having + also a hope of attracting the attention of our shore party, the sound of + whose guns we had not heard since leaving the Rugufu. + </p> + <p> + On the 3rd of January we left Uwelasia, and, passing by Cape Herembe, were + in the bay of Tongwe. This bay is about twenty-five miles broad, and + stretches from Cape Herembe to Cape Tongwe. Finding themselves so near + their destination, Urimba being but six miles from Herembe Point, the men + of both boats bent themselves to their oars, and, with shouts, songs, and + laughter, encouraged each other to do their utmost. The flags of the two + great Anglo-Saxon nations rippled and played in the soft breeze, sometimes + drawing near caressingly together, again bending away, like two lovers coy + to unite. The tight little boat of the Doctor would keep ahead, and the + crimson and crossed flag of England would wave before me, and it seemed to + say to the beautiful laggard astern, "Come on, come on; England leads the + way." But was it not England's place to be in the front here? She won the + right to it by discovering the Tanganika; America came but second. + </p> + <p> + Urimba, though a large district of Kawendi, has a village of the same name + peopled by refugees from Yombeh, who found the delta of the Loajeri, + though the unhealthiest of spots—equal to that of the Rusizi—far + preferable to the neighbourhood of Sultan Pumburu, of Southern Kawendi. A + good chase by the victors seems to have given a shock to their systems, + for they are very timid and distrustful of strangers, and would by no + means permit us to enter their village, of which, to say the truth, I was + very glad, after a glance at the reeking corruption on which they were + encamped. In the immediate neighbourhood—nay, for a couple of miles + on either side—I should suppose that to a white man it were death to + sleep a single night. Leading the way south of the village, I found a fit + camping-place at the extreme south-east corner of Tongwe Bay, about a mile + and a half due west of the lofty peak of Kivanga, or Kakungu. By an + observation taken by the Doctor, we found ourselves to be in latitude 5 + degrees 54 minutes south. + </p> + <p> + None of the natives had heard of our shore party, and, as the delta of the + Loajeri and Mogambazi extended for about fifteen miles, and withal was the + most impassable of places, being perfectly flat, overgrown with the + tallest of matete, eschinomenae, and thorny bush, and flooded with water, + it was useless to fatigue our men searching for the shore party in such an + inhospitable country. No provisions were procurable, for the villages were + in a state of semi-starvation, the inhabitants living from hand to mouth + on what reluctant Fortune threw into their nets. + </p> + <p> + The second day of our arrival at Urimba I struck off into the interior + with my gun-bearer, Kalulu, carrying the Doctor's splendid double-barreled + rifle (a Reilly, No. 12), on the search for venison. After walking about a + mile I came to a herd of zebras. By creeping on all-fours I managed to + come within one hundred yards of them; but I was in a bad spot—low + prickly shrubs; and tsetse flies alighting on the rifle-sight, biting my + nose, and dashing into my eyes, completely disconcerted me; and, to add to + my discontent, my efforts to disengage myself from the thorns, alarmed the + zebras, which all stood facing the suspicious object in the bush. I fired + at the breast of one, but, as might be expected, missed. The zebras + galloped away to about three hundred yards off, and I dashed into the + open, and, hastily cocking the left-hand trigger, aimed at a proud fellow + trotting royally before his fellows, and by good chance sent a bullet + through his heart. A fortunate shot also brought down a huge goose, which + had a sharp horny spur on the fore part of each wing. This supply of meat + materially contributed towards the provisioning of the party for the + transit of the unknown land that lay between us and Mrera, in Rusawa, + Kawendi. + </p> + <p> + It was not until the third day of our arrival at our camp at Urimba that + our shore party arrived. They had perceived our immense flag hoisted on a + twenty-feet long bamboo above the tallest tree near our camp as they + surmounted the sharp lofty ridge behind Nerembe, fifteen miles off, and + had at first taken it for a huge bird; but there were sharp eyes in the + crowd, and, guided by it, they came to camp, greeted as only lost and + found men are greeted. + </p> + <p> + I suffered from another attack of fever at this camp, brought on by the + neighbourhood of the vile delta, the look of which sickened the very heart + in me. + </p> + <p> + On the 7th of January we struck camp, and turned our faces eastward, and + for me, home! Yet regretfully! There had been enough happiness and + pleasure, and pleasantest of social companionship found on the shores of + the lake for me. I had seen enough lovely scenes which, siren-like, + invited one to quiet rest; gentle scenes, where there was neither jar nor + tumult, neither strife nor defeat, neither hope nor disappointment, but + rest-a drowsy, indolent, yet pleasant rest. And only a few drawbacks to + these. There was fever; there were no books, no newspapers, no wife of my + own race and blood, no theatres, no hotels, no restaurants, no East River + oysters, no mince-pies, neither buckwheat cakes, nor anything much that + was good for a cultivated palate to love. So, in turning to say farewell + to the then placid lake and the great blue mountains, that grew bluer as + they receded on either hand, I had the courage to utter that awful word + tearlessly, and without one sigh. + </p> + <p> + Our road led up through the valley of the Loajeri, after leaving its + delta, a valley growing ever narrower, until it narrowed into a ravine + choked by the now roaring, bellowing river, whose resistless rush seemed + to affect the very air we breathed. It was getting oppressive, this + narrowing ravine, and opportunely the road breasted a knoll, then a + terrace, then a hill, and lastly a mountain, where we halted to encamp. As + we prepared to select a camping-place, the Doctor silently pointed + forward, and suddenly a dead silence reigned everywhere. The quinine which + I had taken in the morning seemed to affect me in every crevice of my + brain; but a bitter evil remained, and, though I trembled under the heavy + weight of the Reilly rifle, I crept forward to where the Doctor was + pointing. I found myself looking down a steep ravine, on the other bank of + which a fine buffalo cow was scrambling upward. She had just reached the + summit, and was turning round to survey her enemy, when I succeeded in + planting a shot just behind the shoulder blade, and close to the spine, + evoking from her a deep bellow of pain. "She is shot! she is shot!" + exclaimed the Doctor; "that is a sure sign you have hit her." And the men + even raised a shout at the prospect of meat. A second, planted in her + spine, brought her to her knees, and a third ended her. We thus had + another supply of provisions, which, cut up and dried over a fire, as the + Wangwana are accustomed to do, would carry them far over the unpeopled + wilderness before us. For the Doctor and myself, we had the tongue, the + hump, and a few choice pieces salted down, and in a few days had prime + corned beef. It is not inapt to state that the rifle had more + commendations bestowed on it than the hunter by the Wangwana. + </p> + <p> + The next day we continued the march eastward, under the guidance of our + kirangozi; but it was evident, by the road he led us, that he knew nothing + of the country, though, through his volubility, he had led us to believe + that he knew all about Ngondo, Yombeh, and Pumburu's districts. When + recalled from the head of the caravan, we were about to descend into the + rapid Loajeri, and beyond it were three ranges of impassable mountains, + which we were to cross in a north-easterly direction; quite out of our + road. After consulting with the Doctor, I put myself at the head of the + caravan, and following the spine of the ridge, struck off due east, + regardless of how the road ran. At intervals a travelled road crossed our + path, and, after following it a while, we came to the ford of the Loajeri. + The Loajeri rises south and south-east of Kakungu Peak. We made the best + we could of the road after crossing the river, until we reached the main + path that runs from Karah to Ngondo and Pumburu, in Southern Kawendi. + </p> + <p> + On the 9th, soon after leaving camp, we left the travelled path, and made + for a gap in the are of hills before us, as Pumburu was at war with the + people of Manya Msenge, a district of northern Kawendi. The country teemed + with game, the buffaloes and zebras were plentiful. Among the conspicuous + trees were the hyphene and borassus palm trees, and a tree bearing a fruit + about the size of a 600-pounder cannon-ball, called by some natives + "mabyah,"* according to the Doctor, the seeds of which are roasted and + eaten. They are not to be recommended as food to Europeans. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + * In the Kisawahili tongue, "mabyah," "mbyah, "byah," mean + bad, unpleasant. +</pre> + <p> + On the 10th, putting myself at the head of my men, with my compass in + hand, I led the way east for three hours. A beautiful park-land was + revealed to us; but the grass was very tall, and the rainy season, which + had commenced in earnest, made my work excessively disagreeable. Through + this tall grass, which was as high as my throat, I had to force my way, + compass in hand, to lead the Expedition, as there was not the least sign + of a road, and we were now in an untravelled country. We made our camp on + a beautiful little stream flowing north; one of the feeders of the Rugufu + River. + </p> + <p> + The 11th still saw me plunging through the grass, which showered drops of + rain on me every time I made a step forward. In two hours we crossed a + small stream, with slippery syenitic rocks in its bed, showing the action + of furious torrents. Mushrooms were in abundance, and very large. In + crossing, an old pagazi of Unyamwezi, weather-beaten, uttered, in a + deplorable tone, "My kibuyu is dead;" by which he meant that he had + slipped, and in falling had broken his gourd, which in Kisawahili is + "kibuyu." + </p> + <p> + On the eastern bank we halted for lunch, and, after an hour and a half's + march, arrived at another stream, which I took to be the Mtambu, at first + from the similarity of the land, though my map informed me that it was + impossible. The scenery around was very similar, and to the north we had + cited a similar tabular hill to the "Magdala" Mount I had discovered north + of Imrera, while going to the Malagarazi. Though we had only travelled + three and a half hours the Doctor was very tired as the country was + exceedingly rough. + </p> + <p> + The next day, crossing several ranges, with glorious scenes of surpassing + beauty everywhere around us, we came in view of a mighty and swift + torrent, whose bed was sunk deep between enormous lofty walls of sandstone + rock, where it roared and brawled with the noise of a little Niagara. + </p> + <p> + Having seen our camp prepared on a picturesque knoll, I thought I would + endeavour to procure some meat, which this interesting region seemed to + promise. I sallied out with my little Winchester along the banks of the + river eastward. I travelled for an hour or two, the prospect getting more + picturesque and lovely, and then went up a ravine which looked very + promising. Unsuccessful, I strode up the bank, and my astonishment may be + conceived when I found myself directly in front of an elephant, who had + his large broad ears held out like studding sails—the colossal + monster, the incarnation of might of the African world. Methought when I + saw his trunk stretched forward, like a warning finger, that I heard a + voice say, "Siste, Venator!" But whether it did not proceed from my + imagination or—No; I believe it proceeded from Kalulu, who must have + shouted, "Tembo, tembo! bana yango!" "Lo! an elephant! an elephant, my + master!" + </p> + <p> + For the young rascal had fled as soon as he had witnessed the awful + colossus in such close vicinage. Recovering from my astonishment, I + thought it prudent to retire also—especially, with a pea-shooter + loaded with treacherous sawdust cartridges in my hand. As I looked behind, + I saw him waving his trunk, which I understood to mean, "Good-bye, young + fellow; it is lucky for you you went in time, for I was going to pound you + to a jelly." + </p> + <p> + As I was congratulating myself, a wasp darted fiercely at me and planted + its sting in my neck, and for that afternoon my anticipated pleasures were + dispelled. Arriving at camp I found the men grumbling; their provisions + were ended, and there was no prospect for three days, at least, of + procuring any. With the improvidence usual with the gluttons, they had + eaten their rations of grain, all their store of zebra and dried buffalo + meat, and were now crying out that they were famished. + </p> + <p> + The tracks of animals were numerous, but it being the rainy season the + game was scattered everywhere; whereas, had we travelled during the dry + season through these forests our larders might have been supplied fresh + each day. + </p> + <p> + Some time about 6 P.M., as the Doctor and I were taking our tea outside + the tent, a herd of elephants, twelve in number, passed about 800 yards + off. Our fundi, Asmani and Mabruki Kisesa, were immediately despatched in + pursuit. I would have gone myself with the heavy Reilly rifle, only I was + too much fatigued. We soon heard their guns firing, and hoped they were + successful, as a plentiful supply of meat might then have been procured, + while we ourselves would have secured one of the elephant's feet for a + nice delicate roast; but within an hour they returned unsuccessful, having + only drawn blood, some of which they exhibited to us on a leaf. + </p> + <p> + It requires a very good rifle to kill an African elephant. A No. 8 bore + with a Frazer's shell, planted in the temple, I believe, would drop an + elephant each shot. Faulkner makes some extraordinary statements, about + walking up in front of an elephant and planting a bullet in his forehead, + killing him instantly. The tale, however, is so incredible that I would + prefer not to believe it; especially when he states that the imprint of + the muzzle of his rifle was on the elephant's trunk. African travellers—especially + those with a taste for the chase—are too fond of relating that which + borders on the incredible for ordinary men to believe them. Such stories + must be taken with a large grain of salt, for the sake of the amusement + they afford to readers at home. In future, whenever I hear a man state how + he broke the back of an antelope at 600 yards, I shall incline to believe + a cipher had been added by a slip of the pen, or attribute it to a + typographical error, for this is almost an impossible feat in an African + forest. It may be done once, but it could never be done twice running. An + antelope makes a very small target at 600 yards distance; but, then, all + these stories belong by right divine to the chasseur who travels to Africa + for the sake only of sport. + </p> + <p> + On the 13th we continued our march across several ridges; and the series + of ascents and descents revealed to us valleys and mountains never before + explored streams; rushing northward, swollen by the rains, and grand + primeval forests, in whose twilight shade no white man ever walked before. + </p> + <p> + On the 14th the same scenes were witnessed—an unbroken series of + longitudinal ridges, parallel one with another and with Lake Tanganika. + Eastward the faces of these ridges present abrupt scarps and terraces, + rising from deep valleys, while the western declivities have gradual + slopes. These are the peculiar features of Ukawendi, the eastern watershed + of the Tanganika. + </p> + <p> + In one of these valleys on this day we came across a colony of + reddish-bearded monkeys, whose howls, or bellowing, rang amongst the + cliffs as they discovered the caravan. I was not able to approach them, + for they scrambled up trees and barked their defiance at me, then bounded + to the ground as I still persisted in advancing; and they would have soon + drawn me in pursuit if I had not suddenly remembered that my absence was + halting the Expedition. + </p> + <p> + About noon we sighted our Magdala—the grand towering mount whose + upright frowning mass had attracted our eyes, as it lifted itself from + above the plain in all its grandeur, when we were hurrying along the great + ridge of Rusawa towards the "Crocodile" River. We recognised the old, + mystic beauty of the tree-clad plain around it. Then it was bleached, and + a filmy haze covered it lovingly; now it was vivid greenness. Every + vegetable, plant, herb and tree, had sprung into quick life—the + effect of the rains. Rivers that ran not in those hot summer days now + fumed and rushed impetuously between thick belts of mighty timber, + brawling hoarsely in the glades. We crossed many of these streams, all of + which are feeders of the Rugufu. + </p> + <p> + Beautiful, bewitching Ukawendi! By what shall I gauge the loveliness of + the wild, free, luxuriant, spontaneous nature within its boundaries? By + anything in Europe? No. By anything in Asia? Where? India, perhaps. Yes; + or say Mingrelia and Imeritia. For there we have foaming rivers; we have + picturesque hillocks; we have bold hills, ambitious mountains, and broad + forests, with lofty solemn rows of trees, with clean straight stems, + through which you can see far, lengthy vistas, as you see here. Only in + Ukawendi you can almost behold the growth of vegetation; the earth is so + generous, nature so kind and loving, that without entertaining any + aspiration for a residence, or a wish to breathe the baleful atmosphere + longer than is absolutely necessary, one feels insensibly drawn towards + it, as the thought creeps into his mind, that though all is foul beneath + the captivating, glamorous beauty of the land, the foulness might be + removed by civilized people, and the whole region made as healthy as it is + productive. Even while staggering under the pressure of the awful + sickness, with mind getting more and more embittered, brain sometimes + reeling with the shock of the constantly recurring fevers—though I + knew how the malaria, rising out of that very fairness, was slowly + undermining my constitution, and insidiously sapping the powers of mind + and body—I regarded the alluring face of the land with a fatuous + love, and felt a certain sadness steal over me as each day I was + withdrawing myself from it, and felt disposed to quarrel with the fate + that seemed to eject me out of Ukawendi. + </p> + <p> + On the ninth day of our march from the shores of the Tanganika we again + perceived our "Magdala Mount," rising like a dark cloud to the north-east, + by which I knew that we were approaching Imrera, and that our Icarian + attempt to cross the uninhabited jungle of Ukawendi would soon be crowned + with success. Against the collective counsel of the guides, and + hypothetical suggestions of the tired and hungry souls of our Expedition, + I persisted in being guided only by the compass and my chart. The guides + strenuously strove to induce me to alter my course and strike in a + south-west direction, which, had I listened to them, would have + undoubtedly taken me to South-western Ukonongo, or North-eastern Ufipa. + The veteran and experienced soldiers asked mournfully if I were determined + to kill them with famine, as the road I should have taken was north-east; + but I preferred putting my trust in the compass. No sun shone upon us as + we threaded our way through the primeval forest, by clumps of jungle, + across streams, up steep ridges, and down into deep valleys. A thick haze + covered the forests; rain often pelted us; the firmament was an + unfathomable depth of grey vapour. The Doctor had perfect confidence in + me, and I held on my way. + </p> + <p> + As soon as we arrived at our camp the men scattered themselves through the + forest to search for food. A grove of singwe trees was found close by. + Mushrooms grew in abundance, and these sufficed to appease the gnawing + hunger from which the people suffered. Had it not been such rainy weather + I should have been enabled to procure game for the camp; but the fatigue + which I suffered, and the fever which enervated me, utterly prevented me + from moving out of the camp after we once came to a halt. The fear of + lions, which were numerous in our vicinity, whose terrible roaring was + heard by day and by night, daunted the hunters so much, that though I + offered five doti of cloth for every animal brought to camp, none dared + penetrate the gloomy glades, or awesome belts of timber, outside the + friendly defence of the camp. + </p> + <p> + The morning of the tenth day I assured the people that we were close to + food; cheered the most amiable of them with promise of abundant provender, + and hushed the most truculent knaves with a warning not to tempt my + patience too much, lest we came to angry blows; and then struck away east + by north through the forest, with the almost exhausted Expedition dragging + itself weakly and painfully behind me. It was a most desperate position + certainly, and I pitied the poor people far more than they pitied + themselves; and though I fumed and stormed in their presence when they + were disposed to lie down and give up, never was a man further from doing + them injury. I was too proud of them; but under the circumstances it was + dangerous—nay, suicidal—to appear doubtful or dubious of the + road. The mere fact that I still held on my way according to the Doctor's + little pearly monitor (the compass) had a grand moral effect on them, and + though they demurred in plaintive terms and with pinched faces, they + followed my footsteps with a trustfulness which quite affected me. + </p> + <p> + For long miles we trudged over smooth sloping sward, with a vision of + forest and park-land beauty on our right and left, and in front of us such + as is rarely seen. At a pace that soon left the main body of the + Expedition far behind, I strode on with a few gallant fellows, who, + despite their heavy loads, kept pace with me. After a couple of hours we + were ascending the easy slope of a ridge, which promised to decide in a + few minutes the truth or the inaccuracy of my chart. Presently we arrived + at the eastern edge of the ridge, and about five miles away, and 1,000 + feet below the high plateau on which we stood, we distinguished the valley + of Imrera! + </p> + <p> + By noon we were in our old camp. The natives gathered round, bringing + supplies of food, and to congratulate us upon having gone to Ujiji and + returned. But it was long before the last member of the Expedition + arrived. The Doctor's feet were very sore, bleeding from the weary march. + His shoes were in a very worn-out state, and he had so cut and slashed + them with a knife to ease his blistered feet, that any man of our force + would have refused them as a gift, no matter how ambitious he might be to + encase his feet a la Wasungu. + </p> + <p> + Asmani, the guide, was very much taken aback when he discovered that the + tiny compass knew the way better than he did, and he declared it as his + solemn opinion that it could not lie. He suffered much in reputation from + having contested the palm with the "little thing," and ever afterwards his + boasted knowledge of the country was considerably doubted. + </p> + <p> + After halting a day to recruit ourselves, we continued our journey on the + 18th January, 1872, towards Unyanyembe. A few miles beyond Imrera, Asmani + lost the road again, and I was obliged to show it to him, by which I + gained additional honour and credit as a leader and guide. My shoes were + very bad, and it was difficult to decide whose were the worst in + condition, the Doctor's or mine. A great change had come upon the face of + the land since I had passed northward en route to Ujiji. The wild grapes + now hung in clusters along the road; the corn ears were advanced enough to + pluck and roast for food; the various plants shed their flowers; and the + deep woods and grasses of the country were greener than ever. + </p> + <p> + On the 19th we arrived at Mpokwa's deserted village. The Doctor's feet + were very much chafed and sore by the marching. He had walked on foot all + the way from Urimba, though he owned a donkey; while I, considerably to my + shame be it said, had ridden occasionally to husband my strength, that I + might be enabled to hunt after arrival at camp. + </p> + <p> + Two huts were cleared for our use, but, just as we had made ourselves + comfortable, our sharp-eyed fellows had discovered several herds of game + in the plain west of Mpokwa. Hastily devouring a morsel of corn-bread with + coffee, I hastened away, with Bilali for a gunbearer, taking with me the + famous Reilly rifle of the Doctor and a supply of Fraser's shells. After + plunging through a deep stream, and getting wet again, and pushing my way + through a dense brake, I arrived at a thin belt of forest, through which I + was obliged to crawl, and, in half an hour, I had arrived within one + hundred and forty yards of a group of zebras, which were playfully biting + each other under the shade of a large tree. Suddenly rising up, I + attracted their attention; but the true old rifle was at my shoulder, and + "crack—crack" went both barrels, and two fine zebras, a male and + female, fell dead under the tree where they had stood. In a few seconds + their throats were cut, and after giving the signal of my success, I was + soon surrounded by a dozen of my men, who gave utterance to their delight + by fulsome compliments to the merits of the rifle, though very few to me. + When I returned to camp with the meat I received the congratulations of + the Doctor, which I valued far higher, as he knew from long experience + what shooting was. + </p> + <p> + When the eatable portions of the two zebras were hung to the scale, we + found, according to the Doctor's own figures, that we had 719 lbs. of good + meat, which, divided among forty-four men, gave a little over 16 lbs. to + each person. Bombay, especially, was very happy, as he had dreamed a dream + wherein I figured prominently as shooting animals down right and left; + and, when he had seen me depart with that wonderful Reilly rifle he had + not entertained a doubt of my success, and, accordingly, had commanded the + men to be ready to go after me, as soon as they should hear the reports of + the gun. + </p> + <p> + The following is quoted from my Diary: + </p> + <p> + January 20th, 1872.—To-day was a halt. On going out for a hunt I saw + a herd of eleven giraffes. After crossing Mpokwa stream I succeeded in + getting within one hundred and fifty yards of one of them, and fired at + it; but, though it was wounded, I did not succeed in dropping it, though I + desired the skin of one of them very much. + </p> + <p> + In the afternoon I went out to the east of the village, and came to a herd + of six giraffes. I wounded one of them, but it got off, despite my + efforts. + </p> + <p> + What remarkable creatures they are! How beautiful their large limpid eyes! + I could have declared on oath that both shots had been a success, but they + sheered off with the stately movements of a clipper about to tack. When + they ran they had an ungainly, dislocated motion, somewhat like the + contortions of an Indian nautch or a Theban danseuse—a dreamy, + undulating movement, which even the tail, with its long fringe of black + hair, seemed to partake of. + </p> + <p> + The Doctor, who knew how to console an ardent but disappointed young + hunter, attributed my non-success to shooting with leaden balls, which + were too soft to penetrate the thick hide of the giraffes, and advised me + to melt my zinc canteens with which to harden the lead. It was not the + first time that I had cause to think the Doctor an admirable travelling + companion; none knew so well how to console one for bad luck none knew so + well how to elevate one in his own mind. If I killed a zebra, did not his + friend Oswell—the South African hunter—and himself long ago + come to the conclusion that zebra meat was the finest in Africa? If I shot + a buffalo cow, she was sure to be the best of her kind, and her horns were + worth while carrying home as specimens; and was she not fat? If I returned + without anything, the game was very wild, or the people had made a noise, + and the game had been frightened; and who could stalk animals already + alarmed? Indeed, he was a most considerate companion, and, knowing him to + be literally truthful, I was proud of his praise when successful, and when + I failed I was easily consoled. + </p> + <p> + Ibrahim, the old pagazi whose feelings had been so lacerated in Ukawendi, + when his ancient kibuyu broke, before leaving Ujiji invested his cloth in + a slave from Manyuema, who bore the name of "Ulimengo," which signifies + the "World." As we approached Mpokwa, Ulimengo absconded with all his + master's property, consisting of a few cloths and a bag of salt, which he + had thought of taking to Unyanyembe for trade. Ibrahim was inconsolable, + and he kept lamenting his loss daily in such lugubrious tones that the + people, instead of sympathizing, laughed at him. I asked him why he + purchased such a slave, and, while he was with him, why he did not feed + him? Replied he, tartly, "Was he not my slave? Was not the cloth with + which I bought him mine? If the cloth was my own, could I not purchase + what I liked? Why do you talk so?" + </p> + <p> + Ibrahim's heart was made glad this evening by the return of Ulimengo with + the salt and the cloth, and the one-eyed old man danced with his great + joy, and came in all haste to impart to me the glad news. "Lo, the 'World' + has come back. Sure. My salt and my cloth are with him also. Sure." To + which I replied, that he had better feed him in future, as slaves required + food as well as their masters. + </p> + <p> + From 10 P.M. to midnight the Doctor was employed in taking observations + from the star Canopus, the result of which was that he ascertained Mpokwa, + district of Utanda, Ukonongo, to be in S. latitude 6 degrees 18 minutes 40 + seconds. On comparing it with its position as laid down in my map by dead + reckoning, I found we differed by three miles; I having laid it down at 6 + degrees 15 minutes south latitude. + </p> + <p> + The day following was a halt. The Doctor's feet were so inflamed and sore + that he could not bear his shoes on. My heels were also raw, and I + viciously cut large circles out of my shoes to enable me to move about. + </p> + <p> + Having converted my zinc canteens into bullets, and provided myself with a + butcher and gun-bearer, I set out for the lovely park-land and plain west + of Mpokwa stream, with the laudable resolution to obtain something; and + seeing nothing in the plain, I crossed over a ridge, and came to a broad + basin covered with tall grass, with clumps here and there of hyphene palm, + with a stray mimosa or so scattered about. Nibbling off the branches of + the latter, I saw a group of giraffes, and then began stalking them + through the grass, taking advantage of the tall grass-grown ant-hills that + I might approach the wary beasts before their great eyes could discover + me. I contrived to come within 175 yards, by means of one of these curious + hummocks; but beyond it no man could crawl without being observed—the + grass was so thin and short. I took a long breath, wiped my perspiring + brow, and sat down for a while; my black assistants also, like myself, + were almost breathless with the exertion, and the high expectations roused + by the near presence of the royal beasts. I toyed lovingly with the heavy + Reilly, saw to my cartridges, and then stood up and turned, with my rifle + ready; took one good, long, steady aim; then lowered it again to arrange + the sights, lifted it up once more—dropped it. A giraffe half turned + his body; for the last time I lifted it, took one quick sight at the + region of the heart, and fired. He staggered, reeled, then made a short + gallop; but the blood was spouting from the wound in a thick stream, and + before he had gone 200 yards he came to a dead halt, with his ears drawn + back, and allowed me to come within twenty yards of him, when, receiving a + zinc bullet through the head, he fell dead. + </p> + <p> + "Allah ho, akhbar!" cried Khamisi, my butcher, fervently. "This is meat, + master!" + </p> + <p> + I was rather saddened than otherwise at seeing the noble animal stretched + before me. If I could have given him his life back I think I should have + done so. I thought it a great pity that such splendid animals, so well + adapted for the service of man in Africa, could not be converted to some + other use than that of food. Horses, mules, and donkeys died in these + sickly regions; but what a blessing for Africa would it be if we could + tame the giraffes and zebras for the use of explorers and traders! Mounted + on a zebra, a man would be enabled to reach Ujiji in one month from + Bagamoyo; whereas it took me over seven months to travel that distance! + </p> + <p> + The dead giraffe measured 16 feet 9 inches from his right fore-hoof to the + top of his head, and was one of the largest size, though some have been + found to measure over 17 feet. He was spotted all over with large black, + nearly round, patches. + </p> + <p> + I left Khamisi in charge of the dead beast, while I returned to camp to + send off men to cut it up, and convey the meat to our village. But Khamisi + climbed a tree for fear of the lions, and the vultures settled on it, so + that when the men arrived on the spot, the eyes, the tongue, and a great + part of the posteriors were eaten up. What remained weighed as follows, + when brought in and hung to the scales: + </p> + <p> + 1 hind leg.... 134 lbs. + </p> + <p> + 1 " .... 136 " + </p> + <p> + 1 fore leg.... 160 " + </p> + <p> + I " .... 160 " + </p> + <p> + Ribs...... 158 " + </p> + <p> + Neck...... 74 " + </p> + <p> + Rump...... 87 " + </p> + <p> + Breast..... 46 " + </p> + <p> + Liver..... 20 " + </p> + <p> + Lungs..... 12 " + </p> + <p> + Heart..... 6 " + </p> + <p> + Total weight of eatable portions.. 993 lbs. + </p> + <p> + Skin and head, 181 lbs. + </p> + <p> + The three days following I suffered from a severe attack of fever, and was + unable to stir from bed. I applied my usual remedies for it, which + consisted of colocynth and quinine; but experience has shown me that an + excessive use of the same cathartic weakens its effect, and that it would + be well for travellers to take with them different medicines to cause + proper action in the liver, such as colocynth, calomel, resin of jalap, + Epsom salts; and that no quinine should be taken until such medicines + shall have prepared the system for its reception. + </p> + <p> + The Doctor's prescription for fever consists of 3 grains of resin of + jalap, and 2 grains of calomel, with tincture of cardamoms put in just + enough to prevent irritation of the stomach—made into the form of a + pill—which is to be taken as soon as one begins to feel the + excessive languor and weariness which is the sure forerunner of the + African type of fever. An hour or two later a cup of coffee, unsugared and + without milk, ought to be taken, to cause a quicker action. The Doctor + also thinks that quinine should be taken with the pill; but my experience—though + it weighs nothing against what he has endured—has proved to me that + quinine is useless until after the medicine has taken effect. My stomach + could never bear quinine unless subsequent to the cathartic. A well-known + missionary at Constantinople recommends travellers to take 3 grains of + tartar-emetic for the ejection of the bilious matter in the stomach; but + the reverend doctor possibly forgets that much more of the system is + disorganized than the stomach; and though in one or two cases of a slight + attack, this remedy may have proved successful, it is altogether too + violent for an enfeebled man in Africa. I have treated myself faithfully + after this method three or four times; but I could not conscientiously + recommend it. For cases of urticaria, I could recommend taking 3 grains of + tartar-emetic; but then a stomach-pump would answer the purpose as well. + </p> + <p> + On the 27th we set out for Misonghi. About half-way I saw the head of the + Expedition on the run, and the motive seemed to be communicated quickly, + man after man, to those behind, until my donkey commenced to kick, and + lash behind with his heels. In a second, I was made aware of the cause of + this excitement, by a cloud of wild bees buzzing about my head, three or + four of which settled on my face, and stung me frightfully. We raced madly + for about half a mile, behaving in as wild a manner as the poor bestung + animals. + </p> + <p> + As this was an unusually long march, I doubted if the Doctor could march + it, because his feet were so sore, so I determined to send four men back + with the kitanda; but the stout old hero refused to be carried, and walked + all the way to camp after a march of eighteen miles. He had been stung + dreadfully in the head and in the face; the bees had settled in handfuls + in his hair; but, after partaking of a cup of warm tea and some food, he + was as cheerful as if he had never travelled a mile. + </p> + <p> + At Mrera, Central Ukonongo, we halted a day to grind grain, and to prepare + the provision we should need during the transit of the wilderness between + Mrera and Manyara. + </p> + <p> + On the 31st of January, at Mwaru, Sultan Ka-mirambo, we met a caravan + under the leadership of a slave of Sayd bin Habib, who came to visit us in + our camp, which was hidden in a thick clump of jungle. After he was + seated, and had taken his coffee, I asked, + </p> + <p> + "What is thy news, my friend, that thou bast brought from Unyanyembe?" + </p> + <p> + "My news is good, master." + </p> + <p> + "How goes the war?" + </p> + <p> + "Ah, Mirambo is where? He eats the hides even. He is famished. Sayd bin + Habib, my master, hath possession of Kirira. The Arabs are thundering at + the gates of Wilyankuru. Sayd bin Majid, who came from Ujiji to Usagozi in + twenty days, hath taken and slain 'Moto' (Fire), the King. Simba of Kasera + hath taken up arms for the defence of his father, Mkasiwa of Unyanyembe. + The chief of Ugunda hath sent five hundred men to the field. Ough—Mirambo + is where? In a month he will be dead of hunger." + </p> + <p> + "Great and good news truly, my friend." + </p> + <p> + "Yes-in the name of God." + </p> + <p> + "And whither art thou bound with thy caravan?" + </p> + <p> + "Sayd, the son of Majid, who came from Ujiji, hath told us of the road + that the white man took, that he had arrived at Ujiji safely, and that he + was on his way back to Unyanyembe. So we have thought that if the white + man could go there, we could also. Lo, the Arabs come by the hundred by + the white man's road, to get the ivory from Ujiji. + </p> + <p> + "I am that white man." + </p> + <p> + "You?" + </p> + <p> + "Yes." + </p> + <p> + "Why it was reported that you were dead—that you fought with the + Wazavira." + </p> + <p> + "Ah, my friend, these are the words of Njara, the son of Khamis. See" + (pointing to Livingstone), "this is the white man, my father *, whom I saw + at Ujiji. He is going with me to Unyanyembe to get his cloth, after which + he will return to the great waters." + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + * It is a courteous custom in Africa to address elderly + people as "Baba," (Father.) +</pre> + <p> + "Wonderful!—thou sayest truly." + </p> + <p> + "What has thou to tell me of the white man at Unyanyembe?" + </p> + <p> + "Which white man?" + </p> + <p> + "The white man I left in the house of Sayd, the son of Salim—my + house—at Kwihara." + </p> + <p> + "He is dead." + </p> + <p> + "Dead!" + </p> + <p> + "True." + </p> + <p> + "You do not mean to say the white man is dead?" + </p> + <p> + "True—he is dead." + </p> + <p> + "How long ago?" + </p> + <p> + "Many months now." + </p> + <p> + "What did he die of?" + </p> + <p> + "Homa (fever)." + </p> + <p> + "Any more of my people dead?" + </p> + <p> + "I know not." + </p> + <p> + "Enough." I looked sympathetically at the Doctor, and he replied, + </p> + <p> + "I told you so. When you described him to me as a drunken man, I knew he + could not live. Men who have been habitual drunkards cannot live in this + country, any more than men who have become slaves to other vices. I + attribute the deaths that occurred in my expedition on the Zambezi to much + the same cause." + </p> + <p> + "Ah, Doctor, there are two of us gone. I shall be the third, if this fever + lasts much longer." + </p> + <p> + "Oh no, not at all. If you would have died from fever, you would have died + at Ujiji when you had that severe attack of remittent. Don't think of it. + Your fever now is only the result of exposure to wet. I never travel + during the wet season. This time I have travelled because I was anxious, + and I did not wish to detain you at Ujiji." + </p> + <p> + "Well, there is nothing like a good friend at one's back in this country + to encourage him, and keep his spirits up. Poor Shaw! I am sorry—very + sorry for him. How many times have I not endeavoured to cheer him up! But + there was no life in him. And among the last words I said to him, before + parting, were, 'Remember, if you return to Unyanyembe, you die!'" + </p> + <p> + We also obtained news from the chief of Sayd bin Habib's caravan that + several packets of letters and newspapers, and boxes, had arrived for me + from Zanzibar by my messengers and Arabs; that Selim, the son of Sheikh + Hashid of Zanzibar, was amongst the latest arrivals in Unyanyembe. The + Doctor also reminded me with the utmost good-nature that, according to his + accounts, he had a stock of jellies and crackers, soups, fish, and potted + ham, besides cheese, awaiting him in Unyanyembe, and that he would be + delighted to share his good things; whereupon I was greatly cheered, and, + during the repeated attacks of fever I suffered about this time, my + imagination loved to dwell upon the luxuries at Unyanyembe. I pictured + myself devouring the hams and crackers and jellies like a madman. I lived + on my raving fancies. My poor vexed brain rioted on such homely things as + wheaten bread and butter, hams, bacon, caviare, and I would have thought + no price too high to pay for them. Though so far away and out of the pale + of Europe and America, it was a pleasure to me, during the <i>athumia</i> + or despondency into which I was plunged by ever recurring fevers, to dwell + upon them. I wondered that people who had access to such luxuries should + ever get sick, and become tired of life. I thought that if a wheaten loaf + with a nice pat of fresh butter were presented to me, I would be able, + though dying, to spring up and dance a wild fandango. + </p> + <p> + Though we lacked the good things of this life above named, we possessed + salted giraffe and pickled zebra tongues; we had ugali made by Halimah + herself; we had sweet potatoes, tea, coffee, dampers, or slap jacks; but I + was tired of them. My enfeebled stomach, harrowed and irritated with + medicinal compounds, with ipecac, colocynth, tartar-emetic, quinine, and + such things, protested against the coarse food. "Oh, for a wheaten loaf!" + my soul cried in agony. "Five hundred dollars for one loaf of bread!" + </p> + <p> + The Doctor, somehow or another, despite the incessant rain, the dew, fog, + and drizzle, the marching, and sore feet, ate like a hero, and I manfully, + sternly, resolved to imitate the persevering attention he paid to the + welfare of his gastric powers; but I miserably failed. + </p> + <p> + Dr. Livingstone possesses all the attainments of a traveller. His + knowledge is great about everything concerning Africa—the rocks, the + trees, the fruits, and their virtues, are known to him. He is also full of + philosophic reflections upon ethnological matter. With camp-craft, with + its cunning devices, he is au fait. His bed is luxurious as a spring + mattress. Each night he has it made under his own supervision. First, he + has two straight poles cut, three or four inches in diameter; which are + laid parallel one with another, at the distance of two feet; across these + poles are laid short sticks, saplings, three feet long, and over them is + laid a thick pile of grass; then comes a piece of waterproof canvas and + blankets—and thus a bed has been improvised fit for a king. + </p> + <p> + It was at Livingstone's instigation I purchased milch goats, by which, + since leaving Ujiji, we have had a supply of fresh milk for our tea and + coffee three times a day. Apropos of this, we are great drinkers of these + welcome stimulants; we seldom halt drinking until we have each had six or + seven cups. We have also been able to provide ourselves with music, which, + though harsh, is better than none. I mean the musical screech of parrots + from Manyuema. + </p> + <p> + Half-way between Mwaru—Kamirambo's village—and the deserted + Tongoni of Ukamba, I carved the Doctor's initials and my own on a large + tree, with the date February 2nd. I have been twice guilty of this in + Africa once when we were famishing in Southern Uvinza I inscribed the + date, my initials, and the word "Starving," in large letters on the trunk + of a sycamore. + </p> + <p> + In passing through the forest of Ukamba, we saw the bleached skull of an + unfortunate victim to the privations of travel. Referring to it, the + Doctor remarked that he could never pass through an African forest, with + its solemn stillness and serenity, without wishing to be buried quietly + under the dead leaves, where he would be sure to rest undisturbed. In + England there was no elbow-room, the graves were often desecrated; and + ever since he had buried his wife in the woods of Shupanga he had sighed + for just such a spot, where his weary bones would receive the eternal rest + they coveted. + </p> + <p> + The same evening, when the tent door was down, and the interior was made + cheerful by the light of a paraffin candle, the Doctor related to me some + incidents respecting the career and the death of his eldest son, Robert. + Readers of Livingstone's first book, 'South Africa,' without which no boy + should be, will probably recollect the dying Sebituane's regard for the + little boy "Robert." Mrs. Livingstone and family were taken to the Cape of + Good Hope, and thence sent to England, where Robert was put in the charge + of a tutor; but wearied of inactivity, when he was about eighteen, he left + Scotland and came to Natal, whence he endeavoured to reach his father. + Unsuccessful in his attempt, he took ship and sailed for New York, and + enlisted in the Northern Army, in a New Hampshire regiment of Volunteers, + discarding his own name of Robert Moffatt Livingstone, and taking that of + Rupert Vincent that his tutor, who seems to have been ignorant of his + duties to the youth, might not find him. From one of the battles before + Richmond, he was conveyed to a North Carolina hospital, where he died from + his wounds. + </p> + <p> + On the 7th of February we arrived at the Gombe, and camped near one of its + largest lakes. This lake is probably several miles in length, and swarms + with hippopotami and crocodiles. + </p> + <p> + From this camp I despatched Ferajji, the cook, and Chowpereh to + Unyanyembe, to bring the letters and medicines that were sent to me from + Zanzibar, and meet us at Ugunda, while the next day we moved to our old + quarters on the Gombe, where we were first introduced to the real hunter's + paradise in Central Africa. The rain had scattered the greater number of + the herds, but there was plenty of game in the vicinity. Soon after + breakfast I took Khamisi and Kalulu with me for a hunt. After a long walk + we arrived near a thin jungle, where I discovered the tracks of several + animals—boar, antelope, elephant, rhinoceros, hippopotamus, and an + unusual number of imprints of the lion's paw. Suddenly I heard Khamisi + say, "Master, master! here is a 'simba!' (lion);" and he came up to me + trembling with excitement and fear—for the young fellow was an + arrant coward—to point out the head of a beast, which could be seen + just above the tall grass, looking steadily towards us. It immediately + afterwards bounded from side to side, but the grass was so high that it + was impossible to tell exactly what it was. Taking advantage of a tree in + my front, I crept quietly onwards, intending to rest the heavy rifle + against it, as I was so weak from the effects of several fevers that I + felt myself utterly incapable of supporting my rifle for a steady aim. But + my surprise was great when I cautiously laid it against the tree, and then + directed its muzzle to the spot where I had seen him stand. Looking + further away—to where the grass was thin and scant—I saw the + animal bound along at a great rate, and that it was a lion: the noble + monarch of the forest was in full flight! From that moment I ceased to + regard him as the "mightiest among the brutes;" or his roar as anything + more fearful in broad daylight than a sucking dove's. + </p> + <p> + The next day was also a halt, and unable to contain my longing for the + chase, where there used to be such a concourse of game of all kinds, soon + after morning coffee, and after despatching a couple of men with presents + to my friend Ma-manyara, of ammonia-bottle memory, I sauntered out once + more for the park. Not five hundred yards from the camp, myself and men + were suddenly halted by hearing in our immediate vicinity, probably within + fifty yards or so, a chorus of roars, issuing from a triplet of lions. + Instinctively my fingers raised the two hammers, as I expected a general + onset on me; for though one lion might fly, it was hardly credible that + three should. While looking keenly about I detected, within easy + rifle-shot, a fine hartebeest, trembling and cowering behind a tree, as if + it expected the fangs of the lion in its neck. Though it had its back + turned to me, I thought a bullet might plough its way to a vital part, and + without a moment's hesitation I aimed and fired. The animal gave a + tremendous jump, as if it intended to take a flying leap through the tree; + but recovering itself it dashed through the underbrush in a different + direction from that in which I supposed the lions to be, and I never saw + it again, though I knew I had struck it from the bloody trail it left; + neither did I see nor hear anything more of the lions. I searched far and + wide over the park-land for prey of some kind, but was compelled to return + unsuccessful to camp. + </p> + <p> + Disgusted with my failure, we started a little after noon for Manyara, at + which place we were hospitably greeted by my friend, who had sent men to + tell me that his white brother must not halt in the woods but must come to + his village. We received a present of honey and food from the chief, which + was most welcome to us in our condition. Here was an instance of that + friendly disposition among Central African chiefs when they have not been + spoiled by the Arabs, which Dr. Livingstone found among the Babisa and + Ba-ulungu, and in Manyuema. I received the same friendly recognition from + all the chiefs, from Imrera, in Ukawendi, to Unyanyembe, as I did from + Mamanyara. + </p> + <p> + On the 14th we arrived at Ugunda, and soon after we had established + ourselves comfortably in a hut which the chief lent us for our use, in + came Ferajji and Chowpereh, bringing with them Sarmean and Uledi Manwa + Sera, who, it will be recollected, were the two soldiers sent to Zanzibar + with letters and who should Sarmean have in charge but the deserter + Hamdallah, who decamped at Manyara, as we were going to Ujiji. This + fellow, it seems, had halted at Kigandu, and had informed the chief and + the doctor of the village that he had been sent by the white man to take + back the cloth left there for the cure of Mabruk Saleem; and the simple + chief had commanded it to be given up to him upon his mere word, in + consequence of which the sick man had died. + </p> + <p> + Upon Sarmean's arrival in Unyanyembe from Zanzibar, about fifty days after + the Expedition had departed for Ujiji the news he received was that the + white man (Shaw) was dead; and that a man called Hamdallah, who had + engaged himself as one of my guides, but who had shortly after returned, + was at Unyanyembe. He had left him unmolested until the appearance of + Ferajji and his companion, when they at once, in a body, made a descent on + his hut and secured him. With the zeal which always distinguished him in + my service, Sarmean had procured a forked pole, between the prongs of + which the neck of the absconder was placed; and a cross stick, firmly + lashed, effectually prevented him from relieving himself of the + incumbrance attached to him so deftly. + </p> + <p> + There were no less than seven packets of letters and newspapers from + Zanzibar, which had been collecting during my absence from Unyanyembe. + These had been intrusted at various times to the chiefs of caravans, who + had faithfully delivered them at my tembe, according to their promise to + the Consul. There was one packet for me, which contained two or three + letters for Dr. Livingstone, to whom, of course, they were at once + transferred, with my congratulations. In the same packet there was also a + letter to me from the British Consul at Zanzibar requesting me to take + charge of Livingstone's goods and do the best I could to forward them on + to him, dated 25th September, 1871, five days after I left Unyanyembe on + my apparently hopeless task. + </p> + <p> + "Well, Doctor," said I to Livingstone, "the English Consul requests me to + do all I can to push forward your goods to you. I am sorry that I did not + get the authority sooner, for I should have attempted it; but in the + absence of these instructions I have done the best I could by pushing you + towards the goods. The mountain has not been able to advance towards + Mohammed, but Mohammed has been compelled to advance towards the + mountain." + </p> + <p> + But Dr. Livingstone was too deeply engrossed in his own letters from home, + which were just a year old. + </p> + <p> + I received good and bad news from New York, but the good news was + subsequent, and wiped out all feelings that might have been evoked had I + received the bad only. But the newspapers, nearly a hundred of them, New + York, Boston, and London journals, were full of most wonderful news. The + Paris Commune was in arms against the National Assembly; the Tuileries, + the Louvre, and the ancient city Lutetia Parisiorum had been set in flames + by the blackguards of Saint-Antoine! French troops massacring and + murdering men, women, and children; rampant diabolism, and incarnate + revenge were at work in the most beautiful city in the world! Fair women + converted into demons, and dragged by ruffianly soldiery through the + streets to universal execration and pitiless death; children of tender age + pinned to the earth and bayoneted; men innocent or not, shot, cut, + stabbed, slashed, destroyed—a whole city given up to the summa + injuria of an infuriate, reckless, and brutal army! Oh France! Oh + Frenchmen! Such things are unknown even in the heart of barbarous Central + Africa. We spurned the newspapers with our feet; and for relief to + sickened hearts gazed on the comic side of our world, as illustrated in + the innocent pages of 'Punch.' Poor 'Punch!' good-hearted, kindly-natured + 'Punch!' a traveller's benison on thee! Thy jokes were as physic; thy + innocent satire was provocative of hysteric mirth. + </p> + <p> + Our doors were crowded with curious natives, who looked with indescribable + wonder at the enormous sheets. I heard them repeat the words, "Khabari + Kisungu"—white man's news—often, and heard them discussing the + nature of such a quantity of news, and expressing their belief that the + "Wasungu" were "mbyah sana," and very "mkali;" by which they meant to say + that the white men were very wicked, and very smart and clever though the + term wicked is often employed to express high admiration. + </p> + <p> + On the fourth day from Ugunda, or the 18th of February, and the + fifty-third day from Ujiji, we made our appearance with flags flying and + guns firing in the valley of Kwihara, and when the Doctor and myself + passed through the portals of my old quarters I formally welcomed him to + Unyanyembe and to my house. + </p> + <p> + Since the day I had left the Arabs, sick and, weary almost with my life, + but, nevertheless, imbued with the high hope that my mission would + succeed, 131 days had elapsed—with what vicissitudes of fortune the + reader well knows—during which time I had journeyed over 1,200 + miles. + </p> + <p> + The myth after which I travelled through the wilderness proved to be a + fact; and never was the fact more apparent than when the Living Man walked + with me arm in arm to my old room, and I said to him, "Doctor, we are at + last HOME!" + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0015" id="link2HCH0015"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XV. — HOMEWARD BOUND.—LIVINGSTONE'S LAST WORDS—THE + FINAL FAREWELL + </h2> + <p> + Unyanyembe was now to me a terrestrial Paradise. Livingstone was no less + happy; he was in comfortable quarters, which were a palace compared to his + hut in Ujiji. Our store-rooms were full of the good things of this life, + besides cloth, beads, wire, and the thousand and one impedimenta and + paraphernalia of travel with which I had loaded over one hundred and fifty + men at Bagamoyo. I had seventy-four loads of miscellaneous things, the + most valuable of which were now to be turned over to Livingstone, for his + march back to the sources of the Nile. + </p> + <p> + It was a great day with, us when, with hammer and chisel, I broke open the + Doctor's boxes, that we might feast our famished stomachs on the luxuries + which were to redeem us from the effect of the cacotrophic dourra and + maize food we had been subjected to in the wilderness. I conscientiously + believed that a diet on potted ham, crackers, and jellies would make me as + invincible as Talus, and that I only required a stout flail to be able to + drive the mighty Wagogo into the regions of annihilation, should they dare + even to wink in a manner I disapproved. + </p> + <p> + The first box opened contained three tins of biscuits, six tins of potted + hams—tiny things, not much larger than thimbles, which, when opened, + proved to be nothing more than a table-spoonful of minced meat plentifully + seasoned with pepper: the Doctor's stores fell five hundred degrees below + zero in my estimation. Next were brought out five pots of jam, one of + which was opened—this was also a delusion. The stone jars weighed a + pound, and in each was found a little over a tea-spoonful of jam. Verily, + we began to think our hopes and expectations had been raised to too high a + pitch. Three bottles of curry were next produced—but who cares for + curry? Another box was opened, and out tumbled a fat dumpy Dutch cheese, + hard as a brick, but sound and good; though it is bad for the liver in + Unyamwezi. Then another cheese was seen, but this was all eaten up—it + was hollow and a fraud. The third box contained nothing but two sugar + loaves; the fourth, candles; the fifth, bottles of salt, Harvey, + Worcester, and Reading sauces, essence of anchovies, pepper, and mustard. + Bless me! what food were these for the revivifying of a moribund such as I + was! The sixth box contained four shirts, two pairs of stout shoes, some + stockings and shoe-strings, which delighted the Doctor so much when he + tried them on that he exclaimed, "Richard is himself again!" "That man," + said I, "whoever he is, is a friend, indeed." "Yes, that is my friend + Waller." + </p> + <p> + The five other boxes contained potted meat and soups; but the twelfth, + containing one dozen bottles of medicinal brandy, was gone; and a strict + cross-examination of Asmani, the head man of Livingstone's caravan, + elicited the fact, that not only was one case of brandy missing, but also + two bales of cloth and four bags of the most valuable beads in Africa—sami-sami—which + are as gold with the natives. + </p> + <p> + I was grievously disappointed after the stores had been examined; + everything proved to be deceptions in my jaundiced eyes. Out of the tins + of biscuits when opened, there was only one sound box; the whole of which + would not make one full meal. The soups—who cared for meat soups in + Africa? Are there no bullocks, and sheep, and goats in the land, from + which far better soup can be made than any that was ever potted? Peas, or + any other kind of vegetable soup, would have been a luxury; but chicken + and game soups!—what nonsense! + </p> + <p> + I then overhauled my own stores. I found some fine old brandy and one + bottle of champagne still left; though it was evident, in looking at the + cloth bales, that dishonesty had been at work; and some person happened to + suggest Asmani—the head man sent by Dr. Kirk in charge of + Livingstone's goods—as the guilty party. Upon his treasures being + examined, I found eight or ten coloured cloths, with the mark of my own + agent at Zanzibar on them. As he was unable to give a clear account of how + they came in his box, they were at once confiscated, and distributed among + the most deserving of the Doctor's people. Some of the watchmen also + accused him of having entered into my store-room, and of having abstracted + two or three gorah of domestics from my bales, and of having, some days + afterwards, snatched the keys from the hands of one of my men, and broken + them, lest other people might enter, and find evidences of his guilt. As + Asmani was proved to be another of the "moral idiots," Livingstone + discharged him on the spot. Had we not arrived so soon at Unyanyembe, it + is probable that the entire stock sent from Zanzibar had in time + disappeared. + </p> + <p> + Unyanyembe being rich in fruits, grain, and cattle, we determined to have + our Christmas dinner over again in style, and, being fortunately in pretty + good health, I was enabled to superintend its preparation. Never was such + prodigality seen in a tembe of Unyamwezi as was seen in ours, nor were + ever such delicacies provided. + </p> + <p> + There were but few Arabs in Unyanyembe when we arrived, as they were + investing the stronghold of Mirambo. About a week after our return, "the + little mannikin," Sheikh Sayd bin Salim—El Wali—who was the + commander-in-chief of their forces, came to Kwihara from the front. But + the little Sheikh was in no great hurry to greet the man he had wronged so + much. As soon as we heard of his arrival we took the opportunity to send + men immediately after the goods which were forwarded to the Wali's care + soon after Livingstone's departure for Mikindany Bay. The first time we + sent men for them the governor declared himself too sick to attend to such + matters, but the second day they were surrendered, with a request that the + Doctor would not be very angry at their condition, as the white ants had + destroyed everything. + </p> + <p> + The stores this man had detained at Unyanyembe were in a most sorry state. + The expenses were prepaid for their carriage to Ujiji, but the goods had + been purposely detained at this place by Sayd bin Salim since 1867 that he + might satisfy his appetite for liquor, and probably fall heir to two + valuable guns that were known to be with them. The white ants had not only + eaten up bodily the box in which the guns were packed, but they had also + eaten the gunstocks. The barrels were corroded, and the locks were quite + destroyed. The brandy bottles, most singular to relate, had also fallen a + prey to the voracious and irresistible destroyers the white ants—and, + by some unaccountable means, they had imbibed the potent Hennessy, and + replaced the corks with corn-cobs. The medicines had also vanished, and + the zinc pots in which they had been snugly packed up were destroyed by + corrosion. Two bottles of brandy and one small zinc case of medicines only + were saved out of the otherwise utter wreck. + </p> + <p> + I also begged the Doctor to send to Sheikh Sayd, and ask him if he had + received the two letters despatched by him upon his first arrival at Ujiji + for Dr. Kirk and Lord Clarendon; and if he had forwarded them to the + coast, as he was desired to do. The reply to the messengers was in the + affirmative; and, subsequently, I obtained the same answer in the presence + of the Doctor, + </p> + <p> + On the 222nd of February, the pouring rain, which had dogged us the entire + distance from Ujiji, ceased, and we had now beautiful weather; and while I + prepared for the homeward march, the Doctor was busy writing his letters, + and entering his notes into his journal, which I was to take to his + family. When not thus employed, we paid visits to the Arabs at Tabora, by + whom we were both received with that bounteous hospitality for which they + are celebrated. + </p> + <p> + Among the goods turned over by me to Dr. Livingstone, while assorting such + cloths as I wished to retain for my homeward trip, were— + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Doti. Yards. +</pre> + <p> + First-class American sheeting... 285 = 1140 + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + " Kaniki (blue stuff)... 16 = 64 +</pre> + <p> + Medium " (blue stuff)... 60 = 240 + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + " Dabwani cloth.... 41 = 64 + + Barsati cloths.... 28 = 112 + + Printed handkerchiefs.. 70 = 280 +</pre> + <p> + Medium Rehani cloth..... 127 = 508 + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + " Ismahili " .... 20 = 80 + + " Sohari "..... 20 = 80 +</pre> + <p> + 4 pieces fine Kungura (red check) 22 = 88 + </p> + <p> + 4 gorah Rehani....... 8 = 32 + </p> + <p> + Total number of cloths. 697 = 2788 + </p> + <p> + Besides: + </p> + <p> + Cloth, 2788 yards. + </p> + <p> + Assorted beads, 16 sacks, weight = 992 lbs. + </p> + <p> + Brass wire, Nos. 5 and 6; 10 fraslilah = 350 lbs. + </p> + <p> + 1 canvas tent, waterproof. + </p> + <p> + 1 air-bed. + </p> + <p> + 1 boat (canvas} + </p> + <p> + 1 bag of tools, carpenter's. + </p> + <p> + 1 rip saw. + </p> + <p> + 2 barrels of tar. + </p> + <p> + 12 sheets of ship's copper = 60 lbs. + </p> + <p> + Clothes. + </p> + <p> + 1 Jocelyn breech-loader (metallic cartridge). + </p> + <p> + 1 Starr's " " " + </p> + <p> + 1 Henry (16-shooter) " " + </p> + <p> + 1 revolver. + </p> + <p> + 200 rounds revolver ammunition. + </p> + <p> + 2000 " Jocelyn and Starrs ammunition. + </p> + <p> + 1500 " Henry rifle ammunition. + </p> + <p> + Cooking utensils, medicine chest, books, sextant, canvas bags, &c., + &c., &c. + </p> + <p> + The above made a total of about forty loads. Many things in the list would + have brought fancy prices in Unyanyembe, especially the carbines and + ammunition, the saw, carpenter's tools the beads, and wire. Out of the + thirty-three loads which were stored for him in my tembe—the stock + sent to Livingstone, Nov. 1,1870—but few of them would be available + for his return trip to Rua and Manyuema. The 696 doti of cloth which were + left to him formed the only marketable articles of value he possessed; and + in Manyuema, where the natives manufactured their own cloth, such an + article would be considered a drug; while my beads and wire, with economy, + would suffice to keep him and his men over two years in those regions. His + own cloth, and what I gave him, made in the aggregate 1,393 doti, which, + at 2 doti per day for food, were sufficient to keep him and sixty men 696 + days. He had thus four years' supplies. The only articles he lacked to + make a new and completely fitted-up expedition were the following, a list + of which he and I drew up;— + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> +A few tins of American wheat-flour. " " soda crackers. + " " preserved fruits +A few tins of salmon, 10 lbs. Hyson tea. Some sewing thread and needles. +1 dozen official envelopes. 'Nautical Almanac' for 1872 and 1873. 1 +blank journal. 1 chronometer, stopped. 1 chain for refractory people. +</pre> + <p> + With the articles just named he would have a total of seventy loads, but + without carriers they were an incumbrance to him; for, with only the nine + men which he now had, he could go nowhere with such a splendid assortment + of goods. I was therefore commissioned to enlist,—as soon as I + reached Zanzibar,—fifty freemen, arm them with a gun and hatchet + each man, besides accoutrements, and to purchase two thousand bullets, one + thousand flints, and ten kegs of gunpowder. The men were to act as + carriers, to follow wherever Livingstone might desire to go. For, without + men, he was simply tantalized with the aspirations roused in him by the + knowledge that he had abundance of means, which were irrealizable without + carriers. All the wealth of London and New York piled before him were + totally unavailable to him without the means of locomotion. No Mnyamwezi + engages himself as carrier during war-time. You who have read the diary of + my 'Life in Unyanyembe' know what stubborn Conservatives the Wanyamwezi + are. A duty lay yet before me which I owed to my illustrious companion, + and that was to hurry to the coast as if on a matter of life and death—act + for him in the matter of enlisting men as if he were there himself—to + work for him with the same zeal as I would for myself—not to halt or + rest until his desires should be gratified, And this I vowed to do; but it + was a death-blow to my project of going down the Nile, and getting news of + Sir S. Baker. + </p> + <p> + The Doctor's task of writing his letters was ended. He delivered into my + hand twenty letters for Great Britain, six for Bombay, two for New York, + and one for Zanzibar. The two letters for New York were for James Gordon + Bennett, junior, as he alone, not his father, was responsible for the + Expedition sent under my command. I beg the reader's pardon for + republishing one of these letters here, as its spirit and style indicate + the man, the mere knowledge of whose life or death was worth a costly + Expedition. + </p> + <p> + Ujiji, on Tanganika, East Africa, November, 1871. + </p> + <p> + James Gordon Bennett, Jr., Esq. + </p> + <p> + My Dear Sir,—It is in general somewhat difficult to write to one we + have never seen—it feels so much like addressing an abstract idea—but + the presence of your representative, Mr. H. M. Stanley, in this distant + region takes away the strangeness I should otherwise have felt, and in + writing to thank you for the extreme kindness that prompted you to send + him, I feel quite at home. + </p> + <p> + If I explain the forlorn condition in which he found me you will easily + perceive that I have good reason to use very strong expressions of + gratitude. I came to Ujiji off a tramp of between four hundred and five + hundred miles, beneath a blazing vertical sun, having been baffled, + worried, defeated and forced to return, when almost in sight of the end of + the geographical part of my mission, by a number of half-caste Moslem + slaves sent to me from Zanzibar, instead of men. The sore heart made still + sorer by the woeful sights I had seen of man's inhumanity to man racked + and told on the bodily frame, and depressed it beyond measure. I thought + that I was dying on my feet. It is not too much to say that almost every + step of the weary sultry way was in pain, and I reached Ujiji a mere + ruckle of bones. + </p> + <p> + There I found that some five hundred pounds' sterling worth of goods which + I had ordered from Zanzibar had unaccountably been entrusted to a drunken + half-caste Moslem tailor, who, after squandering them for sixteen months + on the way to Ujiji; finished up by selling off all that remained for + slaves and ivory for himself. He had "divined" on the Koran and found that + I was dead. He had also written to the Governor of Unyanyembe that he had + sent slaves after me to Manyuema, who returned and reported my decease, + and begged permission to sell off the few goods that his drunken appetite + had spared. + </p> + <p> + He, however, knew perfectly well, from men who had seen me, that I was + alive, and waiting for the goods and men; but as for morality, he is + evidently an idiot, and there being no law here except that of the dagger + or musket, I had to sit down in great weakness, destitute of everything + save a few barter cloths and beads, which I had taken the precaution to + leave here in case of extreme need. + </p> + <p> + The near prospect of beggary among Ujijians made me miserable. + </p> + <p> + I could not despair, because I laughed so much at a friend who, on + reaching the mouth of the Zambezi, said that he was tempted to despair on + breaking the photograph of his wife. We could have no success after that. + Afterward the idea of despair had to me such a strong smack of the + ludicrous that it was out of the question. + </p> + <p> + Well, when I had got to about the lowest verge, vague rumors of an English + visitor reached me. I thought of myself as the man who went down from + Jerusalem to Jericho; but neither priest, Levite, nor Samaritan could + possibly pass my way. Yet the good Samaritan was close at hand, and one of + my people rushed up at the top of his speed, and, in great excitement, + gasped out, "An Englishman coming! I see him!" and off he darted to meet + him. + </p> + <p> + An American flag, the first ever seen in these parts, at the head of a + caravan, told me the nationality of the stranger. + </p> + <p> + I am as cold and non-demonstrative as we islanders are usually reputed to + be; but your kindness made my frame thrill. It was, indeed, overwhelming, + and I said in my soul, "Let the richest blessings descend from the Highest + on you and yours!" + </p> + <p> + The news Mr. Stanley had to tell was thrilling. The mighty political + changes on the Continent; the success of the Atlantic cables; the election + of General Grant, and many other topics' riveted my attention for days + together, and had an immediate and beneficial effect on my health. I had + been without news from home for years save what I could glean from a few + 'Saturday Reviews' and 'Punch' of 1868. The appetite revived, and in a + week I began to feel strong again. + </p> + <p> + Mr. Stanley brought a most kind and encouraging despatch from Lord + Clarendon (whose loss I sincerely deplore), the first I have received from + the Foreign Office since 1866, and information that the British Government + had kindly sent a thousand pounds sterling to my aid. Up to his arrival I + was not aware of any pecuniary aid. I came unsalaried, but this want is + now happily repaired, and I am anxious that you and all my friends should + know that, though uncheered by letter, I have stuck to the task which my + friend Sir Roderick Murchison set me with "John Bullish" tenacity, + believing that all would come right at last. + </p> + <p> + The watershed of South Central Africa is over seven hundred wiles in + length. The fountains thereon are almost innumerable—that is, it + would take a man's lifetime to count them. From the watershed they + converge into four large rivers, and these again into two mighty streams + in the great Nile valley, which begins in ten degrees to twelve degrees + south latitude. It was long ere light dawned on the ancient problem and + gave me a clear idea of the drainage. I had to feel my way, and every step + of the way, and was, generally, groping in the dark—for who cared + where the rivers ran? "We drank our fill and let the rest run by." + </p> + <p> + The Portuguese who visited Cazembe asked for slaves and ivory, and heard + of nothing else. I asked about the waters, questioned and + cross-questioned, until I was almost afraid of being set down as afflicted + with hydrocephalus. + </p> + <p> + My last work, in which I have been greatly hindered from want of suitable + attendants, was following the central line of drainage down through the + country of the cannibals, called Manyuema, or, shortly Manyema. This line + of drainage has four large lakes in it. The fourth I was near when obliged + to turn. It is from one to three miles broad, and never can be reached at + any point, or at any time of the year. Two western drains, the Lufira, or + Bartle Frere's River, flow into it at Lake Kamolondo. Then the great River + Lomame flows through Lake Lincoln into it too, and seems to form the + western arm of the Nile, on which Petherick traded. + </p> + <p> + Now, I knew about six hundred miles of the watershed, and unfortunately + the seventh hundred is the most interesting of the whole; for in it, if I + am not mistaken, four fountains arise from an earthen mound, and the last + of the four becomes, at no great distance off, a large river. + </p> + <p> + Two of these run north to Egypt, Lufira and Lomame, and two run south into + inner Ethiopia, as the Leambaye, or Upper Zambezi, and the Kaful. + </p> + <p> + Are not these the sources of the Nile mentioned by the Secretary of + Minerva, in the city of Sais, to Herodotus? + </p> + <p> + I have heard of them so often, and at great distances off, that I cannot + doubt their existence, and in spite of the sore longing for home that + seizes me every time I think of my family, I wish to finish up by their + rediscovery. + </p> + <p> + Five hundred pounds sterling worth of goods have again unaccountably been + entrusted to slaves, and have been over a year on the way, instead of four + months. I must go where they lie at your expense, ere I can put the + natural completion to my work. + </p> + <p> + And if my disclosures regarding the terrible Ujijian slavery should lead + to the suppression of the East Coast slave trade, I shall regard that as a + greater matter by far than the discovery of all the Nile sources together. + Now that you have done with domestic slavery for ever, lend us your + powerful aid toward this great object. This fine country is blighted, as + with a curse from above, in order that the slavery privileges of the petty + Sultan of Zanzibar may not be infringed, and the rights of the Crown of + Portugal, which are mythical, should be kept in abeyance till some future + time when Africa will become another India to Portuguese slave-traders. + </p> + <p> + I conclude by again thanking you most cordially for your great generosity, + and am, + </p> + <p> + Gratefully yours, + </p> + <p> + David Livingstone. + </p> + <p> + To the above letter I have nothing to add—it speaks for itself; but + I then thought it was the best evidence of my success. For my own part, I + cared not one jot or tittle about his discoveries, except so far as it + concerned the newspaper which commissioned me for the "search." It is true + I felt curious as to the result of his travels; but, since he confessed + that he had not completed what he had begun, I felt considerable delicacy + to ask for more than he could afford to give. His discoveries were the + fruits of of his own labours—to him they belonged—by their + publication he hoped to obtain his reward, which he desired to settle on + his children. Yet Livingstone had a higher and nobler ambition than the + mere pecuniary sum he would receive: he followed the dictates of duty. + Never was such a willing slave to that abstract virtue. His inclinations + impelled him home, the fascinations of which it required the sternest + resolves to resist. With every foot of new ground he travelled over he + forged a chain of sympathy which should hereafter bind the Christian + nations in bonds of love and charity to the Heathen of the African + tropics. If he were able to complete this chain of love—by actual + discovery and description of them to embody such peoples and nations as + still live in darkness, so as to attract the good and charitable of his + own land to bestir themselves for their redemption and salvation—this, + Livingstone would consider an ample reward. + </p> + <p> + "A delirious and fatuous enterprise, a Quixotic scheme!" some will say. + Not it, my friends; for as sure as the sun shines on both Christian and + Infidel, civilised and Pagan, the day of enlightenment will come; and, + though Livingstone, the Apostle of Africa, may not behold it himself, nor + we younger men, not yet our children, the Hereafter will see it, and + posterity will recognise the daring pioneer of its civilization. + </p> + <p> + The following items are extracted in their entirety from my Diary: + </p> + <p> + March 12th.—The Arabs have sent me as many as forty-five letters to + carry to the coast. I am turned courier in my latter days; but the reason + is that no regularly organized caravans are permitted to leave Unyanyembe + now, because of the war with Mirambo. What if I had stayed all this time + at Unyanyembe waiting for the war to end! It is my opinion that, the Arabs + will not be able to conquer Mirambo under nine months yet. + </p> + <p> + To-night the natives have gathered themselves together to give me a + farewell dance in front of my house. I find them to be the pagazis of + Singiri, chief of Mtesa's caravan. My men joined in, and, captivated by + the music despite myself, I also struck in, and performed the "light + fantastic," to the intense admiration of my braves, who were delighted to + see their master unbend a little from his usual stiffness. + </p> + <p> + It is a wild dance altogether. The music is lively, and evoked from the + sonorous sound of four drums, which are arranged before the bodies of four + men, who stand in the centre of the weird circle. Bombay, as ever comical, + never so much at home as when in the dance of the Mrima, has my + water-bucket on his head; Chowpereh—the sturdy, the nimble, + sure-footed Chowpereh—has an axe in his hand, and wears a goatskin + on his head; Baraka has my bearskin, and handles a spear; Mabruki, the + "Bull-headed," has entered into the spirit of the thing, and steps up and + down like a solemn elephant; Ulimengo has a gun, and is a fierce + Drawcansir, and you would imagine he was about to do battle to a hundred + thousand, so ferocious is he in appearance; Khamisi and Kamna are before + the drummers, back to back, kicking up ambitiously at the stars; Asmani,—the + embodiment of giant strength,—a towering Titan,—has also a + gun, with which he is dealing blows in the air, as if he were Thor, + slaying myriads with his hammer. The scruples and passions of us all are + in abeyance; we are contending demons under the heavenly light of the + stars, enacting only the part of a weird drama, quickened into action and + movement by the appalling energy and thunder of the drums. + </p> + <p> + The warlike music is ended, and another is started. The choragus has + fallen on his knees, and dips his head two or three times in an excavation + in the ground, and a choir, also on their knees, repeat in dolorous tones + the last words of a slow and solemn refrain. The words are literally + translated:— + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Choragus. Oh-oh-oh! the white man is going home! + + Choir. Oh-oh-oh! going home! + Going home, oh-oh-oh! + + Choragus. To the happy island on the sea, + Where the beads are plenty, oh-oh-oh! + + Choir. Oh-oh-oh! where the beads are plenty, + Oh-oh-oh! + + Choragus. While Singiri has kept us, oh, very long + From our homes very long, oh-oh-oh.! + + Choir From our homes, oh-oh-oh! + Oh-oh-oh! + + Choragus. And we have had no food for very long— + We are half-starved, oh, for so long! + Bana Singiri! + + Choir. For so very long, oh-oh-oh! + Bana Singiri-Singiri! + Singiri! oh, Singiri + + Choragus. Mirambo has gone to war + To fight against the Arabs; + The Arabs and Wangwana + Have gone to fight Mirambo! + + Choir Oh-oh-oh! to fight Mirambo! + + Oh, Mirambo! Mirambo + Oh, to fight Mirambo! + + Choragus. But the white man will make us glad, + He is going home! For he is going home, + And he will make us glad! Sh-sh-sh! + + Choir. The white man will make us glad! Sh-sh-sh + Sh——-sh-h-h——-sh-h-h-h-h-h! + Um-m—mu—-um-m-m——sh! +</pre> + <p> + This is the singular farewell which I received from the Wanyamwezi of + Singiri, and for its remarkable epic beauty(?), rhythmic excellence(?), + and impassioned force(?), I have immortalised it in the pages of this + book, as one of the most wonderful productions of the chorus-loving + children of Unyamwezi. + </p> + <p> + March 13th.—The last day of my stay with Livingstone has come and + gone, and the last night we shall be together is present, and I cannot + evade the morrow! I feel as though I would rebel against the fate which + drives me away from him. The minutes beat fast, and grow into hours. + </p> + <p> + Our door is closed, and we are both of us busy with our own thoughts. What + his thoughts are I know not. Mine are sad. My days seem to have been spent + in an Elysian field; otherwise, why should I so keenly regret the near + approach of the parting hour? Have I not been battered by successive + fevers, prostrate with agony day after day lately? Have I not raved and + stormed in madness? Have I not clenched my fists in fury, and fought with + the wild strength of despair when in delirium? Yet, I regret to surrender + the pleasure I have felt in this man's society, though so dearly + purchased. + </p> + <p> + I cannot resist the sure advance of time, which flies this night as if it + mocked me, and gloated on the misery it created! Be it so! + </p> + <p> + How many times have I not suffered the pang of parting with friends! I + wished to linger longer, but the inevitable would come—Fate sundered + us. This is the same regretful feeling, only it is more poignant, and the + farewell may be forever! FOREVER? And "FOR EVER," echo the reverberations + of a woful whisper. + </p> + <p> + I have noted down all he has said to-night; but the reader shall not share + it with me. It is mine! + </p> + <p> + I am as jealous as he is himself of his Journal; and I have written in + German text, and in round hand, on either side of it, on the waterproof + canvas cover, "POSITTVELY NOT TO BE OPENED;" to which he has affixed his + signature. I have stenographed every word he has said to me respecting the + equable distribution of certain curiosities among his friends and + children, and his last wish about "his" dear old friend, Sir Roderick + Murchison, because he has been getting anxious about him ever since we + received the newspapers at Ugunda, when we read that the old man was + suffering from a paralytic stroke. I must be sure to send him the news, as + soon as I get to Aden; and I have promised that he will receive the + message from me quicker than anything was ever received in Central Africa. + </p> + <p> + "To-morrow night, Doctor, you will be alone!" + </p> + <p> + "Yes; the house will look as though a death had taken place. You had + better stop until the rains, which are now near, are over." + </p> + <p> + "I would to God I could, my dear Doctor; but every day I stop here, now + that there is no necessity for me to stay longer, keeps you from your work + and home." + </p> + <p> + "I know; but consider your health—you are not fit to travel. What is + it? Only a few weeks longer. You will travel to the coast just as quickly + when the rains are over as you will by going now. The plains will be + inundated between here and the coast." + </p> + <p> + "You think so; but I will reach the coast in forty days; if not in forty, + I will in fifty—certain. The thought that I am doing you an + important service will spur me on." + </p> + <p> + March 14th.—At dawn we were up, the bales and baggage were taken + outside of the building, and the men prepared themselves for the first + march towards home. + </p> + <p> + We had a sad breakfast together. I could not eat, my heart was too full; + neither did my companion seem to have an appetite. We found something to + do which kept us longer together. At 8 o'clock I was not gone, and I had + thought to have been off at 5 A.M. + </p> + <p> + "Doctor," said I, "I will leave two men with you, who will stop to-day and + to-morrow with you, for it may be that you have forgotten something in the + hurry of my departure. I will halt a day at Tura, on the frontier of + Unyamwezi, for your last word, and your last wish; and now we must part—there + is no help for it. Good-bye." + </p> + <p> + "Oh, I am coming with you a little way. I must see you off on the road." + </p> + <p> + "Thank you. Now, my men, Home! Kirangozi, lift the flag, and MARCH!" + </p> + <p> + The house looked desolate—it faded from our view. Old times, and the + memories of my aspirations and kindling hopes, came strong on me. The old + hills round about, that I once thought tame and uninteresting, had become + invested with histories and reminiscences for me. On that burzani I have + sat hour after hour, dreaming, and hoping, and sighing. On that col I + stood, watching the battle and the destruction of Tabora. Under that roof + I have sickened and been delirious, and cried out like a child at the fate + that threatened my mission. Under that banian tree lay my dead comrade—poor + Shaw; I would have given a fortune to have had him by my side at this + time. From that house I started on my journey to Ujiji; to it I returned + as to a friend, with a newer and dearer companion; and now I leave all. + Already it all appears like a strange dream. + </p> + <p> + We walked side by side; the men lifted their voices into a song. I took + long looks at Livingstone, to impress his features thoroughly on my + memory. + </p> + <p> + "The thing is, Doctor, so far as I can understand it, you do not intend to + return home until you have satisfied yourself about the 'Sources of the + Nile.' When you have satisfied yourself, you will come home and satisfy + others. Is it not so?" + </p> + <p> + "That is it, exactly. When your men come back, I shall immediately start + for Ufipa; then, crossing the Rungwa River, I shall strike south, and + round the extremity of the Tanganika. Then, a south-east course will take + me to Chicumbi's, on the Luapula. On crossing the Luapula, I shall go + direct west to the copper-mines of Katanga. Eight days south of Katanga, + the natives declare the fountains to be. When I have found them, I shall + return by Katanga to the underground houses of Rua. From the caverns, ten + days north-east will take me to Lake Kamolondo. I shall be able to travel + from the lake, in your boat, up the River Lufira, to Lake Lincoln. Then, + coming down again, I can proceed north, by the Lualaba, to the fourth lake—which, + I think, will explain the whole problem; and I will probably find that it + is either Chowambe (Baker's lake), or Piaggia's lake. + </p> + <p> + "And how long do you think this little journey will take you?" + </p> + <p> + "A year and a half, at the furthest, from the day I leave Unyanyembe." + </p> + <p> + "Suppose you say two years; contingencies might arise, you know. It will + be well for me to hire these new men for two years; the day of their + engagement to begin from their arrival at Unyanyembe." + </p> + <p> + "Yes, that will do excellently well." + </p> + <p> + "Now, my dear Doctor, the best friends must part. You have come far + enough; let me beg of you to turn back." + </p> + <p> + "Well, I will say this to you: you have done what few men could do—far + better than some great travellers I know. And I am grateful to you for + what you have done for me. God guide you safe home, and bless you, my + friend." + </p> + <p> + "And may God bring you safe back to us all, my dear friend. Farewell!" + </p> + <p> + "Farewell!" + </p> + <p> + We wrung each other's hands, and I had to tear myself away before I + unmanned myself; but Susi, and Chumah, and Hamoydah—the Doctor's + faithful fellows—they must all shake and kiss my hands before I + could quite turn away. I betrayed myself! + </p> + <p> + "Good-bye, Doctor—dear friend!" + </p> + <p> + "Good-bye!" + </p> + <p> + The FAREWELL between Livingstone and myself had been spoken. We were + parted, he to whatever fate Destiny had yet in store for him, to battling + against difficulties, to many, many days of marching through wildernesses, + with little or nothing much to sustain him save his own high spirit, and + enduring faith in God—"who would bring all things right at last;" + and I to that which Destiny may have in store for me. + </p> + <p> + But though I may live half a century longer, I shall never forget that + parting scene in Central Africa. I shall never cease to think of the sad + tones of that sorrowful word Farewell, how they permeated through every + core of my heart, how they clouded my eyes, and made me wish unutterable + things which could never be. + </p> + <p> + An audacious desire to steal one embrace from the dear old man came over + me, and almost unmanned me. I felt tempted to stop with him and assist + him, on his long return march to the fountain region, but these things + were not to be, any more than many other impulsive wishes, and despite the + intensified emotions which filled both of us, save by silent tears, and a + tremulous parting word, we did not betray our stoicism of manhood and + race. + </p> + <p> + I assumed a gruff voice, and ordered the Expedition to march, and I + resolutely turned my face toward the eastern sky. But ever and anon my + eyes would seek that deserted figure of an old man in grey clothes, who + with bended head and slow steps was returning to his solitude, the very + picture of melancholy, and each time I saw him—as the plain was wide + and clear of obstructions—I felt my eyes stream, and my heart swell + with a vague, indefinable feeling of foreboding and sorrow. + </p> + <p> + I thought of his lonely figure sitting day after day on the burzani of his + house, by which all caravans from the coast would have to pass, and of the + many, many times he would ask the new-comers whether they had passed any + men coming along the road for him, and I thought as each day passed, and + his stores and letters had not arrived how he would grieve at the + lengthening delay. I then felt strong again, as I felt that so long as I + should be doing service for Livingstone, I was not quite parted from him, + and by doing the work effectively and speedily the bond of friendship + between us would be strengthened. Such thoughts spurred me to the + resolution to march so quickly for the coast, that Arabs in after time + should marvel at the speed with which the white man's caravan travelled + from Unyanyembe to Zanzibar. + </p> + <p> + I took one more look at him; he was standing near the gate of Kwikuru with + his servants near him. I waved a handkerchief to him, as a final token of + farewell, and he responded to it by lifting his cap. It was the last + opportunity, for we soon surmounted the crest of a land-wave, and began + the descent into the depression on the other side, and I NEVER saw him + more. + </p> + <p> + God grant, dear reader, that if ever you take to travelling in Central + Africa, you find as good and true a man, for your companion, as I found in + noble David Livingstone. For four months and four days he and I occupied + the same house, or, the same tent, and I never had one feeling of + resentment against him, nor did he show any against me, and the longer I + lived with him the more did my admiration and reverence for him increase. + </p> + <p> + What were Livingstone's thoughts during the time which elapsed between my + departure for the coast, and the arrival of his supplies, may be gathered + from a letter which he wrote on the 2nd of July to Mr. John F. Webb, + American Consul at Zanzibar. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + I have been waiting up here like Simeon Stylites on his pillar, + and counting every day, and conjecturing each step taken by our + friend towards the coast, wishing and praying that no sickness + might lay him up, no accident befall him, and no unlooked-for + combinations of circumstances render his kind intentions vain + or fruitless. Mr. Stanley had got over the tendency to the + continued form of fever which is the most dangerous, and was + troubled only with the intermittent form, which is comparatively + safe, or I would not have allowed him, but would have accompanied + him to Zanzibar. I did not tell himself so; nor did I say what I + thought, that he really did a very plucky thing in going through + the Mirambo war in spite of the remonstrances of all the Arabs, + and from Ujiji guiding me back to Unyanyembe. The war, as it + is called, is still going on. The danger lay not so much in + the actual fighting as in the universal lawlessness the war + engendered. +</pre> + <p> + I am not going to inflict on the reader a repetition of our march back, + except to record certain incidents which occurred to us as we journeyed to + the coast. + </p> + <p> + March 17th.—We came to the Kwalah River. The first rain of the + Masika season fell on this day; I shall be mildewed before I reach the + coast. Last year's Masika began at Bagamoyo, March 23rd, and ended 30th + April. + </p> + <p> + The next day I halted the Expedition at Western Tura, on the Unyamwezi + frontier, and on the 20th arrived at Eastern Tura; when, soon after, we + heard a loud report of a gun, and Susi and Hamoydah, the Doctor's + servants, with Uredi, and another of my men, appeared with a letter for + "Sir Thomas MacLear, Observatory, Cape of Good Hope," and one for myself, + which read as follows: + </p> + <p> + Kwihara, March 15, 1872. + </p> + <p> + Dear Stanley, + </p> + <p> + If you can telegraph on your arrival in London, be particular, please, to + say how Sir Roderick is. You put the matter exactly yesterday, when you + said that I was "not yet satisfied about the Sources; but as soon as I + shall be satisfied, I shall return and give satisfactory reasons fit for + other people." This is just as it stands. + </p> + <p> + I wish I could give you a better word than the Scotch one to "put a stout + heart to a stey brae"—(a steep ascent)—for you will do that; + and I am thankful that, before going away, the fever had changed into the + intermittent, or safe form. I would not have let you go, but with great + concern, had you still been troubled with the continued type. I feel + comfortable in commending you to the guardianship of the good Lord and + Father of all. + </p> + <p> + I am gratefully yours, + </p> + <p> + David Livingstone. + </p> + <p> + I have worked as hard as I could copying observations made in one line of + march from Kabuire, back again to Cazembe, and on to Lake Baugweolo, and + am quite tired out. My large figures fill six sheets of foolscap, and many + a day will elapse ere I take to copying again. I did my duty when ill at + Ujiji in 1869, and am not to blame, though they grope a little in the dark + at home. Some Arab letters have come, and I forward them to you. + </p> + <p> + D. L. + </p> + <p> + March 16, 1872. + </p> + <p> + P.S.—I have written a note this morning to Mr. Murray, 50, Albemarle + Street, the publisher, to help you, if necessary, in sending the Journal + by book post, or otherwise, to Agnes. If you call on him you will find him + a frank gentleman. A pleasant journey to you. + </p> + <p> + David Livingstone. + </p> + <p> + To Henry M. Stanley, Esq., Wherever he may be found. + </p> + <p> + Several Wangwana arrived at Tura to join our returning Expedition, as they + were afraid to pass through Ugogo by themselves; others were reported + coming; but as all were sufficiently warned at Unyanyembe that the + departure of the caravan would take place positively on the 14th, I was + not disposed to wait longer. + </p> + <p> + As we were leaving Tura, on the 21st, Susi and Hamoydah were sent back to + the Doctor, with last words from me, while we continued our march to + Nghwhalah River. + </p> + <p> + Two days afterwards we arrived before the village of Ngaraisa, into which + the head of the caravan attempted to enter but the angry Wakimbu forcibly + ejected them. + </p> + <p> + On the 24th, we encamped in the jungle, in what is called the "tongoni," + or clearing. + </p> + <p> + This region was at one period in a most flourishing state; the soil is + exceedingly fertile; the timber is large, and would be valuable near the + coast; and, what is highly appreciated in Africa, there is an abundance of + water. We camped near a smooth, broad hump of syenite, at one end of which + rose, upright and grand, a massive square rock, which towered above + several small trees in the vicinity; at the other end stood up another + singular rock, which was loosened at the base. + </p> + <p> + The members of the Expedition made use of the great sheet of rock to grind + their grain; a common proceeding in these lands where villages are not + near, or when the people are hostile. + </p> + <p> + On the 27th of March we entered Kiwyeh. At dawn, when leaving Mdaburu + River, the solemn warning had been given that we were about entering + Ugogo; and as we left Kaniyaga village, with trumpet-like blasts of the + guide's horn, we filed into the depths of an expanse of rustling Indian + corn. The ears were ripe enough for parching and roasting, and thus was + one anxiety dispelled by its appearance; for generally, in early March, + caravans suffer from famine, which overtakes both natives and strangers. + </p> + <p> + We soon entered the gum-tree districts, and we knew we were in Ugogo. The + forests of this country are chiefly composed of the gum and thorn species—mimosa + and tamarisk, with often a variety of wild fruit trees. The grapes were + plentiful, though they were not quite ripe; and there was also a round, + reddish fruit with the sweetness of the Sultana grape, with leaves like a + gooseberry-bush. There was another about the size of an apricot, which was + excessively bitter. + </p> + <p> + Emerging from the entangled thorn jungle, the extensive settlements of + Kiwyeh came into view; and to the east of the chief's village we found a + camping place under the shade of a group of colossal baobab. + </p> + <p> + We had barely encamped when we heard the booming, bellowing war horns + sounding everywhere, and we espied messengers darting swiftly in every + direction giving the alarm of war. When first informed that the horns were + calling the people to arm themselves, and prepare for war, I half + suspected that an attack was about to be made on the Expedition; but the + words "Urugu, warugu" (thief! thieves!)—bandied about, declared the + cause. Mukondoku, the chief of the populous district two days to the + north-east, where we experienced some excitement when westward-bound, was + marching to attack the young Mtemi, Kiwyeh, and Kiwyeh's soldiers were + called to the fight. The men rushed to their villages, and in a short time + we saw them arrayed in full fighting costume. Feathers of the ostrich and + the eagle waved over their fronts, or the mane of the zebra surrounded + their heads; their knees and ankles were hung with little bells; joho + robes floated behind, from their necks; spears, assegais, knob-sticks, and + bows were flourished over their heads, or held in their right hands, as if + ready for hurling. On each flank of a large body which issued from the + principal village, and which came at a uniform swinging double-quick, the + ankle and knee bells all chiming in admirable unison, were a cloud of + skirmishers, consisting of the most enthusiastic, who exercised themselves + in mimic war as they sped along. Column after column, companies, and + groups from every village hurried on past our camp until, probably, there + were nearly a thousand soldiers gone to the war. This scene gave me a + better idea than anything else of the weakness of even the largest + caravans which travelled between Zanzibar and Unyanyembe. + </p> + <p> + At night the warriors returned from the forest; the alarm proved to be + without foundation. At first it was generally reported that the invaders + were Wahehe, or the Wadirigo, as that tribe are scornfully called from + their thieving propensities. The Wahehe frequently make a foray upon the + fat cattle of Ugogo. They travel from their own country in the south-east, + and advance through the jungle, and when about to approach the herds, + stoop down, covering their bodies with their shields of bull-hide. Having + arrived between the cattle and the herdsmen, they suddenly rise up and + begin to switch the cattle heartily, and, having started them off into the + jungle in the care of men already detailed for the work, they turn about, + and plant their shields before them, to fight the aroused shepherds. + </p> + <p> + On the 30th we arrived at Khonze, which is remarkable for the mighty + globes of foliage which the giant sycamores and baobabs put forth above + the plain. The chief of Khonze boasts of four tembes, out of which he + could muster in the aggregate fifty armed men; yet this fellow, instigated + by the Wanyamwezi residents, prepared to resist our advance, because I + only sent him three doti—twelve yards of cloth—as honga. + </p> + <p> + We were halted, waiting the return of a few friendly Wagogo travellers who + had joined us, and who were asked to assist Bombay in the negotiation of + the tribute, when the Wagogo returned to us at breathless speed, and + shouted out to me, "Why do you halt here? Do you wish to die? These pagans + will not take the tribute, but they boast that they will eat up all your + cloth." + </p> + <p> + The renegade Wanyamwezi who had married into Wagogo families were always + our bane in this country. As the chief of Khonze came up I ordered the men + to load their guns, and I loaded my own ostentatiously in his presence, + and then strode up to him, and asked if he had come to take the cloth by + force, or if he were going to accept quietly what I would give him. As the + Mnyamwezi who caused this show of hostilities was beginning to speak, I + caught him by the throat, and threatened to make his nose flatter if he + attempted to speak again in my presence, and to shoot him first, if we + should be forced to fight. The rascal was then pushed away into the rear. + The chief, who was highly amused with this proceeding, laughed loudly at + the discomfiture of the parasite, and in a short time he and I had settled + the tribute to our mutual satisfaction, and we parted great friends. The + Expedition arrived at Sanza that night. + </p> + <p> + On the 31st we came to Kanyenyi, to the great Mtemi—Magomba's—whose + son and heir is Mtundu M'gondeh. As we passed by the tembe of the great + Sultan, the msagira, or chief counsellor, a pleasant grey-haired man, was + at work making a thorn fence around a patch of young corn. He greeted the + caravan with a sonorous "Yambo," and, putting himself at its head, he led + the way to our camp. When introduced to me he was very cordial in his + manner. He was offered a kiti-stool and began to talk very affably. He + remembered my predecessors, Burton, Speke, and Grant, very well; declared + me to be much younger than any of them; and, recollecting that one of the + white men used to drink asses' milk (Burton?), offered to procure me some. + The way I drank it seemed to give him very great satisfaction. + </p> + <p> + His son, Unamapokera, was a tall man of thirty or thereabouts, and he + conceived a great friendship for me, and promised that the tribute should + be very light, and that he would send a man to show me the way to Myumi, + which was a village on the frontier of Kanyenyi, by which I would be + enabled to avoid the rapacious Kisewah, who was in the habit of enforcing + large tribute from caravans. + </p> + <p> + With the aid of Unamapokera and his father, we contrived to be mulcted + very lightly, for we only paid ten doti, while Burton was compelled to pay + sixty doti or two hundred and forty yards of cloth. + </p> + <p> + On the 1st of April, rising early, we reached Myumi after a four hours' + march; then plunged into the jungle, and, about 2 P.M. arrived at a large + ziwa, or pond, situate in the middle of a jungle; and on the next day, at + 10 A.M., reached the fields of Mapanga. We were passing the village of + Mapanga to a resting-place beyond the village, where we might breakfast + and settle the honga, when a lad rushed forward to meet us, and asked us + where we were going. Having received a reply that we were going to a + camping-place, he hastened on ahead, and presently we heard him talking to + some men in a field on our right. + </p> + <p> + In the meantime, we had found a comfortable shady place, and had come to a + halt; the men were reclining on the ground, or standing up near their + respective loads; Bombay was about opening a bale, when we heard a great + rush of men, and loud shouts, and, immediately after, out rushed from the + jungle near by a body of forty or fifty armed men, who held their spears + above their heads, or were about to draw their bows, with a chief at their + head, all uttering such howls of rage as only savages can, which sounded + like a long-drawn "Hhaat-uh—Hhaat-uhh-uhh," which meant, + unmistakably, "You will, will you? No, you will not!"—at once + determined, defiant, and menacing. + </p> + <p> + I had suspected that the voices I heard boded no good to us, and I had + accordingly prepared my weapons and cartridges. Verily, what a fine chance + for adventure this was! One spear flung at us, or one shot fired into this + minatory mob of savages, and the opposing' bands had been plunged into a + fatal conflict! There would have been no order of battle, no pomp of war, + but a murderous strife, a quick firing of breech-loaders, and volleys from + flint-lock muskets, mixed with the flying of spears and twanging of bows, + the cowardly running away at once, pursued by yelping savages; and who + knows how it all would have terminated? Forty spears against forty guns—but + how many guns would not have decamped? Perhaps all, and I should have been + left with my boy gunbearers to have my jugular deliberately severed, or to + be decapitated, leaving my head to adorn a tall pole in the centre of a + Kigogo village, like poor Monsieur Maizan's at Dege la Mhora, in Uzaramo. + Happy end of an Expedition! And the Doctor's Journal lost for ever—the + fruits of six years' labor! + </p> + <p> + But in this land it will not do to fight unless driven to the very last + extremity. No belligerent Mungo Park can be successful in Ugogo unless he + has a sufficient force of men with him. With five hundred Europeans one + could traverse Africa from north to south, by tact, and the moral effect + that such a force would inspire. Very little fighting would be required. + </p> + <p> + Without rising from the bale on which I was seated, I requested the + kirangozi to demand an explanation of their furious hubbub and threatening + aspect; if they were come to rob us. + </p> + <p> + "No," said the chief; "we do not want to stop the road, or to rob you; but + we want the tribute." + </p> + <p> + "But don't you see us halted, and the bale opened to send it to you? We + have come so far from your village that after the tribute is settled we + can proceed on our way, as the day is yet young." + </p> + <p> + The chief burst into a loud laugh, and was joined by ourselves. He + evidently felt ashamed of his conduct for he voluntarily offered the + explanation, that as he and his men were cutting wood to make a new fence + for his village, a lad came up to him, and said that a caravan of Wangwana + were about passing through the country without stopping to explain who + they were. We were soon very good friends. He begged of me to make rain + for him, as his crops were suffering, and no rain had fallen for months. I + told him that though white people were very great and clever people, much + superior to the Arabs, yet we could not make rain. Though very much + disappointed, he did not doubt my statement, and after receiving his + honga, which was very light, he permitted us to go on our way, and even + accompanied us some distance to show us the road. + </p> + <p> + At 3 P.M. we entered a thorny jungle; and by 5 P.M. we had arrived at + Muhalata, a district lorded over by the chief Nyamzaga. A Mgogo, of whom I + made a friend, proved very staunch. He belonged to Mulowa, a country to + the S.S.E., and south of Kulabi; and was active in promoting my interests + by settling the tribute, with the assistance of Bombay, for me. When, on + the next day, we passed through Kulabi on our way to Mvumi, and the Wagogo + were about to stop us for the honga, he took upon himself the task of + relieving us from further toll, by stating we were from Ugogo or Kanyenyi. + The chief simply nodded his head, and we passed on. It seems that the + Wagogo do not exact blackmail of those caravans who intend only to trade + in their own country, or have no intention of passing beyond their own + frontier. + </p> + <p> + Leaving Kulabi, we traversed a naked, red, loamy plain, over which the + wind from the heights of Usagara, now rising a bluish-black jumble of + mountains in our front, howled most fearfully. With clear, keen, incisive + force, the terrible blasts seemed to penetrate through an through our + bodies, as though we were but filmy gauze. Manfully battling against this + mighty "peppo"—storm—we passed through Mukamwa's, and crossing + a broad sandy bed of a stream, we entered the territory of Mvumi, the last + tribute-levying chief of Ugogo. + </p> + <p> + The 4th of April, after sending Bombay and my friendly Mgogo with eight + doti, or thirty-two yards of cloth, as a farewell tribute to the Sultan, + we struck off through the jungle, and in five hours we were on the borders + of the wilderness of "Marenga Mkali"—the "hard," bitter or brackish, + water. + </p> + <p> + From our camp I despatched three men to Zanzibar with letters to the + American Consul, and telegraphic despatches for the 'Herald,' with a + request to the Consul that he would send the men back with a small case or + two containing such luxuries as hungry, worn-out, and mildewed men would + appreciate. The three messengers were charged not to halt for anything—rain + or no rain, river or inundation—as if they did not hurry up we + should catch them before they reached the coast. With a fervent + "Inshallah, bana," they departed. + </p> + <p> + On the 5th, with a loud, vigorous, cheery "Hurrah!" we plunged into the + depths of the wilderness, which, with its eternal silence and solitude, + was far preferable to the jarring, inharmonious discord of the villages of + the Wagogo. For nine hours we held on our way, starting with noisy shouts + the fierce rhinoceros, the timid quagga, and the herds of antelopes which + crowd the jungles of this broad salina. On the 7th, amid a pelting rain, + we entered Mpwapwa, where my Scotch assistant, Farquhar, died. We had + performed the extraordinary march of 338 English statute miles from the + 14th of March to the 7th of April, or within twenty-four days, inclusive + of halts, which was a little over fourteen miles a day. + </p> + <p> + Leukole, the chief of Mpwapwa, with whom I left Farquhar, gave the + following account of the death of the latter:— + </p> + <p> + "The white man seemed to be improving after you left him, until the, fifth + day, when, while attempting to rise and walk out of his tent, he fell + back; from that minute he got worse and worse, and in the afternoon he + died, like one going to sleep. His legs and abdomen had swollen + considerably, and something, I think, broke within him when he fell, for + he cried out like a man who was very much hurt, and his servant said, 'The + master says he is dying.' + </p> + <p> + "We had him carried out under a large tree, and after covering him with + leaves, there left him. His servant took possession of his things, his + rifle, clothes, and blanket, and moved off to the tembe of a Mnyamwezi, + near Kisokweh, where he lived for three months, when he also died. Before + he died he sold his master's rifle to an Arab going to Unyanyembe for ten + doti (forty yards of cloth). That is all I know about it." + </p> + <p> + He subsequently showed me the hollow into which the dead body of Farquhar + was thrown, but I could not find a vestige of his bones, though we looked + sharply about that we might make a decent grave for them. Before we left + Unyanyembe fifty men were employed two days carrying rocks, with which I + built up a solid enduring pile around Shaw's grave eight feet long and + five feet broad, which Dr. Livingstone said would last hundreds of years, + as the grave of the first white man who died in Unyamwezi. But though we + could not discover any remains of the unfortunate Farquhar, we collected a + large quantity of stones, and managed to raise a mound near the banks of + the stream to commemorate the spot where his body was laid. + </p> + <p> + It was not until we had entered the valley of the Mukondokwa River that we + experienced anything like privation or hardship from the Masika. Here the + torrents thundered and roared; the river was a mighty brown flood, + sweeping downward with, an almost resistless flow. The banks were brimful, + and broad nullahs were full of water, and the fields were inundated, and + still the rain came surging down in a shower, that warned us of what we + might expect during our transit of the sea-coast region. Still we urged + our steps onward like men to whom every moment was precious—as if a + deluge was overtaking us. Three times we crossed this awful flood at the + fords by means of ropes tied to trees from bank to bank, and arrived at + Kadetamare on the 11th, a most miserable, most woe-begone set of human + beings; and camped on a hill opposite Mount Kibwe, which rose on the right + of the river—one of the tallest peaks of the range. + </p> + <p> + On the 12th of April, after six hours of the weariest march I had ever + undergone, we arrived at the mouth of the Mukondokwa Pass, out of which + the river debouches into the Plain of Makata. We knew that it was an + unusual season, for the condition of the country, though bad enough the + year before, was as nothing compared to this year. Close to the edge of + the foaming, angry flood lay our route, dipping down frequently into deep + ditches, wherein we found ourselves sometimes up to the waist in water, + and sometimes up to the throat. Urgent necessity impelled us onward, lest + we might have to camp at one of these villages until the end of the + monsoon rains; so we kept on, over marshy bottoms, up to the knees in + mire, under jungly tunnels dripping with wet, then into sloughs arm-pit + deep. Every channel seemed filled to overflowing, yet down the rain + poured, beating the surface of the river into yellowish foam, pelting us + until we were almost breathless. Half a day's battling against such + difficulties brought us, after crossing the river, once again to the + dismal village of Mvumi. + </p> + <p> + We passed the night fighting swarms of black and voracious mosquitoes, and + in heroic endeavours to win repose in sleep, in which we were partly + successful, owing to the utter weariness of our bodies. + </p> + <p> + On the 13th we struck out of the village of Mvumi. It had rained the whole + night, and the morning brought no cessation. Mile after mile we traversed, + over fields covered by the inundation, until we came to a branch + river-side once again, where the river was narrow, and too deep to ford in + the middle. We proceeded to cut a tree down, and so contrived that it + should fall right across the stream. Over this fallen tree the men, + bestriding it, cautiously moved before them their bales and boxes; but one + young fellow, Rojab—through over-zeal, or in sheer madness—took + up the Doctor's box which contained his letters and Journal of his + discoveries on his head, and started into the river. I had been the first + to arrive on the opposite bank, in order to superintend the crossing; when + I caught sight of this man walking in the river with the most precious box + of all on his head. Suddenly he fell into a deep hole, and the man and box + went almost out of sight, while I was in an agony at the fate which + threatened the despatches. Fortunately, he recovered himself and stood up, + while I shouted to him, with a loaded revolver pointed at his head, "Look + out! Drop that bog, and I'll shoot you." + </p> + <p> + All the men halted in their work while they gazed at their comrade who was + thus imperilled by bullet and flood. The man himself seemed to regard the + pistol with the greatest awe, and after a few desperate efforts succeeded + in getting the box safely ashore. As the articles within were not damaged, + Rojab escaped punishment, with a caution not to touch the bog again on any + account, and it was transferred to the keeping of the sure-footed and + perfect pagazi, Maganga. + </p> + <p> + From this stream, in about an hour, we came to the main river, but one + look at its wild waters was enough. We worked hard to construct a raft, + but after cutting down four trees and lashing the green logs together, and + pushing them into the whirling current, we saw them sink like lead. We + then tied together all the strong rope in our possession, and made a line + 180 feet long, with one end of which tied round his body, Chowpereh was + sent across to lash it to a tree. He was carried far down the stream; but + being an excellent swimmer, he succeeded in his attempt. The bales were + lashed around the middle, and, heaved into the stream, were dragged + through the river to the opposite bank, as well as the tent, and such + things as could not be injured much by the water. Several of the men, as + well as myself, were also dragged through the water; each of the boys + being attended by the best swimmers; but when we came to the letter-boxes + and valuables, we could suggest no means to take them over. Two camps were + accordingly made, one on each side of the stream; the one on the bank + which I had just left occupying an ant-hill of considerable height; while + my party had to content itself with a flat, miry marsh. An embankment of + soil, nearly a foot high, was thrown up in a circle thirty feet in + diameter, in the centre of which my tent was pitched, and around it booths + were erected. + </p> + <p> + It was an extraordinary and novel position that we found ourselves in. + Within twenty feet of our camp was a rising river, with flat, low banks; + above us was a gloomy, weeping sky; surrounding us on three sides was an + immense forest, on whose branches we heard the constant, pattering rain; + beneath our feet was a great depth of mud, black and loathsome; add to + these the thought that the river might overflow, and sweep us to utter + destruction. + </p> + <p> + In the morning the river was still rising, and an inevitable doom seemed + to hang over us. There was yet time to act—to bring over the people, + with the most valuable effects of the Expedition—as I considered Dr. + Livingstone's Journal and letters, and my own papers, of far greater value + than anything else. While looking at the awful river an idea struck me + that I might possibly carry the boxes across, one at a time, by cutting + two slender poles, and tying cross sticks to them, making a kind of + hand-barrow, on which a box might rest when lashed to it. Two men swimming + across, at the same time holding on to the rope, with the ends of the + poles resting on the men's shoulders, I thought, would be enabled to + convey over a 70 lb. box with ease. In a short time one of these was made, + and six couples of the strongest swimmers were prepared, and stimulated + with a rousing glass of stiff grog each man, with a promise of cloth to + each also if they succeeded in getting everything ashore undamaged by the + water. When I saw with what ease they dragged themselves across, the + barrow on their shoulders, I wondered that I had not thought of the plan + before. Within an hour of the first couple had gone over, the entire + Expedition was safe on the eastern bank; and at once breaking camp, we + marched north through the swampy forest, which in some places was covered + with four feet of water. Seven hours' constant splashing brought us to + Rehenneko, after experiencing several queer accidents. We were now on the + verge only of the inundated plain of the Makata, which, even with the last + year's rain, was too horrible to think of undertaking again in cold blood. + </p> + <p> + We were encamped ten days on a hill near Rehenneko, or until the 25th, + when, the rain having entirely ceased, we resolved to attempt the crossing + of the Makata. The bales of cloth had all been distributed as presents to + the men for their work, except a small quantity which I retained for the + food of my own mess. + </p> + <p> + But we should have waited a month longer, for the inundation had not + abated four inches. However, after we once struggled up to our necks in + water it was use less to turn back. For two marches of eight hours each we + plunged through slush, mire, deep sloughs, water up to our necks, and + muddy cataclysms, swam across nullahs, waded across gullies, and near + sunset of the second day arrived on the banks of the Makata River. My + people are not likely to forget that night; not one of them was able to + sleep until it was long past midnight, because of the clouds of + mosquitoes, which threatened to eat us all up; and when the horn sounded + for the march of another day, there was not one dissentient amongst them. + </p> + <p> + It was 5 A.M. when we began the crossing of the Makata River, but beyond + it for six miles stretched one long lake, the waters of which flowed + gently towards the Wami. This was the confluence of the streams: four + rivers were here gathered into one. The natives of Kigongo warned us not + to attempt it, as the water was over our heads; but I had only to give a + hint to the men, and we set on our way. Even the water—we were + getting quite amphibious—was better than the horrible filth and + piles of decaying vegetation which were swept against the boma of the + village. + </p> + <p> + We were soon up to our armpits, then the water shallowed to the knee, then + we stepped up to the neck, and waded on tiptoe, supporting the children + above the water; and the same experiences occurred as those which we + suffered the day before, until we were halted on the edge of the Little + Makata, which raced along at the rate of eight knots an hour; but it was + only fifty yards wide, and beyond it rose a high bank, and dry park-lands + which extended as far as Simbo. We had no other option than to swim it; + but it was a slow operation, the current was so swift and strong. Activity + and zeal, high rewards, presents of money, backed by the lively feeling + that we were nearing home, worked wonders, and in a couple of hours we + were beyond the Makata. + </p> + <p> + Cheery and hopeful, we sped along the dry, smooth path that now lay before + us, with the ardor and vivacity of heroes, and the ease and power of + veterans, We rolled three ordinary marches into one that day, and long + before night arrived at Simbo. + </p> + <p> + On the 29th we crossed the Ungerengeri, and as we came to Simbamwenni-the + "Lion City" of Useguhha—lo! what a change! The flooded river had + swept the entire front wall of the strongly-walled city away, and about + fifty houses had been destroyed by the torrent. Villages of Waruguru, on + the slopes of the Uruguru Mountains—Mkambaku range—had also + suffered disastrously. If one-fourth of the reports we heard were true, at + least a hundred people must have perished. + </p> + <p> + The Sultana had fled, and the stronghold of Kimbengo was no more! A deep + canal that he had caused to be excavated when alive, to bring a branch of + the Ungerengeri near his city—which was his glory and boast—proved + the ruin of Simbamwenni. After the destruction of the place the river had + formed a new bed, about 300 yards from the city. But what astonished us + most were the masses of debris which seemed to be piled everywhere, and + the great numbers of trees that were prostrate; and they all seemed to lie + in the same direction, as if a strong wind had come from the south-west. + The aspect of the Ungerengeri valley was completely changed—from a + Paradise it was converted into a howling waste. + </p> + <p> + We continued our march until we reached Ulagalla, and it was evident, as + we advanced, that an unusual storm had passed over the land, for the trees + in some places seemed to lie in swathes. + </p> + <p> + A most fatiguing and long march brought us to Mussoudi, on the eastern + bank of the Ungerengeri; but long before we reached it we realized that a + terrific destruction of human life and property had occurred. The extent + and nature of the calamity may be imagined, when I state that nearly ONE + HUNDRED VILLAGES, according to Mussoudi's report, were swept away. + </p> + <p> + Mussoudi, the Diwan, says that the inhabitants had gone to rest as usual—as + they had done ever since he had settled in the valley, twenty-five years + ago—when, in the middle of the night, they heard a roar like many + thunders, which woke them up to the fact that death was at work in the + shape of an enormous volume of water, that, like a wall, came down, + tearing the tallest trees with it, carrying away scores of villages at one + fell, sure swoop into utter destruction. The scene six days after the + event—when the river has subsided into its normal breadth and depth + during the monsoons—is simply awful. Wherever we look, we find + something very suggestive of the devastation that has visited the country; + fields of corn are covered with many feet of sand and debris; the sandy + bed the river has deserted is about a mile wide; and there are but three + villages standing of all that I noticed when en route to Unyanyembe. When + I asked Mussoudi where the people had gone to, he replied, "God has taken + most of them, but some have gone to Udoe." The surest blow ever struck at + the tribe of the Wakami was indeed given by the hand of God; and, to use + the words of the Diwan, "God's power is wonderful, and who can resist + Him!" + </p> + <p> + I again resort to my Diary, and extract the following: + </p> + <p> + April 30th.—Passing Msuwa, we travelled hurriedly through the jungle + which saw such hard work with us when going to Unyanyembe. What dreadful + odors and indescribable loathing this jungle produces! It is so dense that + a tiger could not crawl through it; it is so impenetrable that an elephant + could not force his way! Were a bottleful of concentrated miasma, such as + we inhale herein, collected, what a deadly poison, instantaneous in its + action, undiscoverable in its properties, would it be! I think it would + act quicker than chloroform, be as fatal as prussic acid. + </p> + <p> + Horrors upon horrors are in it. Boas above our heads, snakes and scorpions + under our feet. Land-crabs, terrapins, and iguanas move about in our + vicinity. Malaria is in the air we breathe; the road is infested with + "hotwater" ants, which bite our legs until we dance and squirm about like + madmen. Yet, somehow, we are fortunate enough to escape annihilation, and + many another traveller might also. Yet here, in verity, are the ten + plagues of Egypt, through which a traveller in these regions must run the + gauntlet: + </p> + <p> + 1. Plague of boas. | 7. Suffocation from the 2. Red ants, or "hot-water." + | density of the jungle. 3 Scorpions. | 8. Stench. 4. Thorns and spear + cacti. | 9. Thorns in the road. 5. Numerous impediments. | 10. Miasma. 6 + Black mud knee-deep. | + </p> + <p> + May 1st. Kingaru Hera.—We heard news of a great storm having raged + at Zanzibar, which has destroyed every house and every ship,—so the + story runs;—and the same destruction has visited Bagamoyo and + Whinde, they say. But I am by this time pretty well acquainted with the + exaggerative tendency of the African. It is possible that serious loss has + been sustained, from the evidences of the effects of the storm in the + interior. I hear, also, that there are white men at Bagamoyo, who are + about starting into the country to look after me (?). Who would look after + me, I cannot imagine. I think they must have some confused idea of my + Expedition; though, how they came to know that I was looking for any man I + cannot conceive, because I never told a soul until I reached Unyanyembe. + </p> + <p> + May 2nd. Rosako.—I had barely arrived at the village before the + three men I despatched from Mvumi, Ugogo, entered, bringing with them from + the generous American Consul a few bottles of champagne, a few pots of + jam, and two boxes of Boston crackers. These were most welcome after my + terrible experiences in the Makata Valley. Inside one of these boxes, + carefully put up by the Consul, were four numbers of the 'Herald'; one of + which contained my correspondence from Unyanyembe, wherein were some + curious typographical errors, especially in figures and African names. I + suppose my writing was wretched, owing to my weakness. In another are + several extracts from various newspapers, in which I learn that many + editors regard the Expedition into Africa as a myth. Alas! it has been a + terrible, earnest fact with me; nothing but hard, conscientious work, + privation, sickness, and almost death. Eighteen men have paid the forfeit + of their lives in the undertaking. It certainly is not a myth—the + death of my two white assistants; they, poor fellows, found their fate in + the inhospitable regions of the interior. + </p> + <p> + One of my letters received from Zanzibar by my messengers states that + there is an expedition at Bagamoyo called the "Livingstone Search and + Relief Expedition." What will the leaders of it do now? Livingstone is + found and relieved already. Livingstone says he requires nothing more. It + is a misfortune that they did not start earlier; then they might with + propriety proceed, and be welcomed. + </p> + <p> + May 4th.—-Arrived at Kingwere's Ferry, but we were unable to attract + the attention of the canoe paddler. Between our camp and Bagamoyo we have + an inundated plain that is at least four miles broad. The ferrying of our + Expedition across this broad watery waste will occupy considerable time. + </p> + <p> + May 5th.—Kingwere, the canoe proprietor, came about 11 A.M. from his + village at Gongoni, beyond the watery plain. By his movements I am fain to + believe him to be a descendant of some dusky King Log, for I have never + seen in all this land the attributes and peculiarities of that royal + personage so faithfully illustrated as in Kingwere. He brought two canoes + with him, short, cranky things, in which only twelve of us could embark at + a time. It was 3 o'clock in the afternoon before we arrived at Gongoni + village. + </p> + <p> + May 6th.—After impressing Kingwere with the urgent necessity of + quick action on his part, with a promise of an extra five-dollar gold + piece, I had the satisfaction to behold the last man reach my camp at 3.30 + p.m. + </p> + <p> + An hour later, and we are en route, at a pace that I never saw equalled at + any time by my caravan. Every man's feelings are intensified, for there is + an animated, nay, headlong, impetuosity about their movements that + indicates but too well what is going on in their minds. Surely, my own are + a faithful index to their feelings; and I do not feel a whit too proud to + acknowledge the great joy that possesses me. I feel proud to think that I + have been successful; but, honestly, I do not feel so elated at that as at + the hope that to-morrow I shall sit before a table bounteous with the good + things of this life. How I will glory in the hams, and potatoes, and good + bread! What a deplorable state of mind, is it not? Ah, my friend, wait + till you are reduced to a skeleton by gaunt famine and coarse, loathsome + food—until you have waded a Makata swamp, and marched 525 miles in + thirty-five days through such weather as we have had—then you will + think such pabula, food fit for gods! + </p> + <p> + Happy are we that,—after completing our mission, after the hurry and + worry of the march, after the anxiety and vexation suffered from fractious + tribes, after tramping for the last fifteen days through mire and Stygian + marsh,—we near Beulah's peace and rest! Can we do otherwise than + express our happiness by firing away gunpowder until our horns are emptied—than + shout our "hurrahs" until we are hoarse—than, with the hearty, + soul-inspiring "Yambos," greet every mother's son fresh from the sea? Not + so, think the Wangwana soldiers; and I so sympathize with them that I + permit them to act their maddest without censure. + </p> + <p> + At sunset we enter the town of Bagamoyo. "More pilgrims come to town," + were the words heard in Beulah. "The white man has come to town," were the + words we heard in Bagamoyo. And we shall cross the water tomorrow to + Zanzibar, and shall enter the golden gate; we shall see nothing, smell + nothing, taste nothing that is offensive to the stomach any more! + </p> + <p> + The kirangozi blows his horn, and gives forth blasts potential as + Astolpho's, as the natives and Arabs throng around us. And that bright + flag, whose stars have waved over the waters of the great lake in Central + Africa, which promised relief to the harassed Livingstone when in distress + at Ujiji, returns to the sea once again—torn, it is true, but not + dishonoured—tattered, but not disgraced. + </p> + <p> + As we reached the middle of the town, I saw on the steps of a large white + house a white man, in flannels and helmet similar to that I wore. I + thought myself rather akin to white men in general, and I walked up to + him. He advanced towards me, and we shook hands—did everything but + embrace. + </p> + <p> + "Won't you walk in?" said he. + </p> + <p> + "Thanks." + </p> + <p> + "What will you have to drink—beer, stout, brandy? Eh, by George! I + congratulate you on your splendid success," said he, impetuously. + </p> + <p> + I knew him immediately. He was an Englishman. He was Lieut. William Henn, + R.N., chief of the Livingstone Search and Relief Expedition, about to be + despatched by the Royal Geographical Society to find and relieve + Livingstone. The former chief, as the Expedition was at first organized, + was Lieut. Llewellyn S. Dawson, who, as soon as he heard from my men that + I had found Livingstone, had crossed over to Zanzibar, and, after + consultation with Dr. John Kirk, had resigned. He had now nothing further + to do with it, the command having formally devolved on Lieut. Henn. A Mr. + Charles New, also, missionary from Mombasah, had joined the expedition, + but he had resigned too. So now there were left but Lieut. Henn and Mr. + Oswell Livingstone, second son of the Doctor. + </p> + <p> + "Is Mr. Oswell Livingstone here?" I asked, with considerable surprise. + </p> + <p> + "Yes; he will be here directly." + </p> + <p> + "What are you going to do now?" I asked. + </p> + <p> + "I don't think it worth my while to go now. You have taken the wind out of + our sails completely. If you have relieved him, I don't see the use of my + going. Do you?" + </p> + <p> + "Well, it depends. You know your own orders best. If you have come only to + find and relieve him, I can tell you truly he is found and relieved, and + that he wants nothing more than a few canned meats, and some other little + things which I dare say you have not got. I have his list in his own + handwriting with me. But his son must go anyhow, and I can get men easily + enough for him." + </p> + <p> + "Well, if he is relieved, it is of no use my going." + </p> + <p> + At this time in walked a slight, young, gentlemanly man, with light + complexion, light hair, dark, lustrous eyes, who was introduced to me as + Mr. Oswell Livingstone. The introduction was hardly necessary, for in his + features there was much of what were the specialities of his father. There + was an air of quiet resolution about him, and in the greeting which he + gave me he exhibited rather a reticent character; but I attributed that to + a receptive nature, which augured well for the future. + </p> + <p> + "I was telling Lieut. Henn that, whether he goes or not, you must go to + your father, Mr. Livingstone." + </p> + <p> + "Oh, I mean to go." + </p> + <p> + "Yes, that's right. I will furnish you with men and what stores your + father needs. My men will take you to Unyanyembe without any difficulty. + They know the road well, and that is a great advantage. They know how to + deal with the negro chiefs, and you will have no need to trouble your head + about them, but march. The great thing that is required is speed. Your + father will be waiting for the things." + </p> + <p> + "I will march them fast enough, if that is all." + </p> + <p> + "Oh, they will be going up light, and they can easily make long marches." + </p> + <p> + It was settled, then. Henn made up his mind that, as the Doctor had been + relieved, he was not wanted; but, before formally resigning, he intended + to consult with Dr. Kirk, and for that purpose he would cross over to + Zanzibar the next day with the 'Herald' Expedition. + </p> + <p> + At 2 A.M. I retired to sleep on a comfortable bed. There was a great smell + of newness about certain articles in the bedroom, such as haversacks, + knapsacks, portmanteaus, leather gun-cases, &c. Evidently the new + Expedition had some crudities about it; but a journey into the interior + would soon have lessened the stock of superfluities, which all new men at + first load themselves with. + </p> + <p> + Ah! what a sigh of relief was that I gave, as I threw myself on my bed, at + the thought that, "Thank God! my marching was ended." + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0016" id="link2HCH0016"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XVI. — VALEDICTORY. + </h2> + <p> + At 5 P.M., on the 7th of May, 1872, the dhow which conveyed my Expedition + back to Zanzibar arrived in the harbor, and the men, delighted to find + themselves once more so near their homes, fired volley after volley, the + American flag was hoisted up, and we soon saw the house-roofs and wharves + lined with spectators, many of whom were Europeans, with glasses levelled + at us. + </p> + <p> + We drew ashore slowly; but a boat putting off to take us to land, we + stepped into it, and I was soon in presence of my friend the Consul, who + heartily welcomed me back to Zanzibar; and soon after was introduced to + the Rev. Charles New, who was but a day or two previous to my arrival an + important member of the English Search Expedition—a small, slight + man in appearance, who, though he looked weakly, had a fund of energy or + nervousness in him which was almost too great for such a body. He also + heartily congratulated me. + </p> + <p> + After a bounteous dinner, to which I did justice in a manner that + astonished my new friends, Lieut. Dawson called to see me, and said: + </p> + <p> + "Mr. Stanley, let me congratulate you, sir." + </p> + <p> + Lieut. Dawson then went on to state how he envied me my success; how I had + "taken the wind out of his sails" (a nautical phrase similar to that used + by Lieut. Henn); how, when he heard from my men that Dr. Livingstone had + been found, he at once crossed over from Bagamoyo to Zanzibar, and, after + a short talk with Dr. Kirk, at once resigned. + </p> + <p> + "But do you not think, Mr. Dawson, you have been rather too hasty in + tendering your resignation, from the more verbal report of my men?" + </p> + <p> + "Perhaps," said he; "but I heard that Mr. Webb had received a letter from + you, and that you and Livingstone had discovered that the Rusizi ran into + the lake—that you had the Doctor's letters and despatches with you." + </p> + <p> + "Yes; but you acquired all this information from my men; you have seen + nothing yourself. You have therefore resigned before you had personal + evidence of the fact." + </p> + <p> + "Well, Dr. Livingstone is relieved and found, as Mr. Henn tells me, is he + not?" + </p> + <p> + "Yes, that is true enough. He is well supplied; he only requires a few + little luxuries, which I am going to send him by an expedition of fifty + freemen. Dr. Livingstone is found and relieved, most certainly; and I have + all the letters and despatches which he could possibly send to his + friends." + </p> + <p> + "But don't you think I did perfectly right?" + </p> + <p> + "Hardly—though, perhaps, it would come to the same thing in the end. + Any more cloth and beads than he has already would be an incumbrance. + Still, you have your orders from the Royal Geographical Society. I have + not seen those yet, and I am not prepared to judge what your best course + would have been. But I think you did wrong in resigning before you saw me; + for then you would have had, probably, a legitimate excuse for resigning. + I should have held on to the Expedition until I had consulted with those + who sent me; though, in such an event as this, the order would be, + perhaps, to 'Come home.'" + </p> + <p> + "As it has turned out, though, don't you think I did right?" + </p> + <p> + "Most certainly it would be useless for you to go to search for and + relieve Livingstone now, because he has already been sought, found, and + relieved; but perhaps you had other orders." + </p> + <p> + "Only, if I went into the country, I was then to direct my attention to + exploration; but the primary object having been forestalled by you, I am + compelled to return home. The Admiralty granted me leave of absence only + for the search, and never said anything about exploration." + </p> + <p> + That evening I despatched a boy over to the English Consulate with letters + from the great traveller for Dr. Kirk and Mr. Oswell Livingstone. + </p> + <p> + I was greeted warmly by the American and German residents, who could not + have shown warmer feeling than if Dr. Livingstone had been a near and dear + relation of their own. Capt. H. A. Fraser and Dr. James Christie were also + loud in their praises. It seems that both of these gentlemen had attempted + to despatch a private expedition to the relief of their countryman, but + through some means it had failed. They had contributed the sum of $500 to + effect this laudable object; but the man to whom they had entrusted its + command had been engaged by another for a different purpose, at a higher + sum. But, instead of feeling annoyed that I had performed what they had + intended to do, they were among my most enthusiastic admirers. + </p> + <p> + The next day I received a call from Dr. Kirk, who warmly congratulated me + upon my success. Bishop Tozer also came, and thanked me for tie service I + had rendered to Dr. Livingstone. + </p> + <p> + On this day I also discharged my men, and re-engaged twenty of them to + return to the "Great Master." Bombay, though in the interior he had + scorned the idea of money rewards, and though he had systematically, in my + greatest need, endeavoured to baffle me in every way, received, besides + his pay, a present of $50, and each man, according to his merits, from $20 + to $50. For this was a day to bury all animosities, and condone all + offences. They, poor people, had only acted according to their nature, and + I remembered that from Ujiji to the coast they had all behaved admirably. + </p> + <p> + I saw I was terribly emaciated and changed when I presented myself before + a full-length mirror. All confirmed my opinion that I was much older in my + appearance, and that my hair had become grey. Capt. Fraser had said, when + I hailed him, "You have the advantage of me, sir!" and until I mentioned + my name he did not know me. Even then he jocosely remarked that he + believed that it was another Tichborne affair. I was so different that + identity was almost lost, even during the short period of thirteen months; + that is, from March 23rd, 1871, to May 7th, 1872. + </p> + <p> + Lieut. Henn the morning after my arrival formally resigned, and the + Expedition was from this time in the hands of Mr. Oswell Livingstone, who + made up his mind to sell the stores, retaining such as would be useful to + his father. + </p> + <p> + After disbanding my Expedition, I set about preparing another, according + to Dr. Livingstone's request. What the English Expedition lacked I + purchased out of the money advanced by Mr. Oswell Livingstone. The guns, + fifty in number, were also furnished out of the stores of the English + Expedition by him; and so were the ammunition, the honga cloth, for the + tribute to the Wagogo, and the cloth for provisioning the force. Mr. + Livingstone worked hard in the interests of his father and assisted me to + the utmost of his ability. He delivered over to me, to be packed up, + 'Nautical Almanacs' for 1872, 1873, 1874; also a chronometer, which + formerly belonged to Dr. Livingstone. All these things, besides a journal, + envelopes, note-books, writing-paper, medicines, canned fruits and fish, a + little wine, some tea, cutlery and table ware, newspapers, and private + letters and despatches, were packed up in air-tight tin boxes, as well as + 100 lbs. of fine American flour, and some boxes of soda biscuits. + </p> + <p> + Until the 19th of May it was understood that Mr. Oswell Livingstone would + take charge of the caravan to his father; but about this date he changed + his mind, and surprised me with a note stating he had decided not to go to + Unyanyembe, for reasons he thought just and sufficient. + </p> + <p> + Under these circumstances, my duty was to follow out the instructions of + Dr. Livingstone, in procuring a good and efficient leader to take charge + of the caravan as far as Unyanyembe. + </p> + <p> + In a few hours I succeeded in obtaining an Arab highly recommended from + Sheikh Hashid, whom I engaged at an advance of $100. The young Arab, + though not remarkably bright, seemed honest and able, but I left his + further employment after reaching Unyanyembe to Dr. Livingstone, who would + be able to decide then whether he was quite trustworthy. + </p> + <p> + The next day I collected the men of the new Livingstone Expedition + together, and as it was dangerous to allow them to wander about the city, + I locked them up in a courtyard, and fed them there, until every soul, + fifty seven in number, answered to their names. + </p> + <p> + In the meantime, through the American Consul's assistance, I obtained the + services of Johari, the chief dragoman of the American Consulate, who was + charged with the conduct of the party across the inundated plain of the + Kingani, and who was enjoined on no account to return until the Expedition + had started on its march from the western bank of the Kingani River. Mr. + Oswell Livingstone generously paid him a douceur for the promise of doing + his work thoroughly. + </p> + <p> + A dhow having been brought to anchor before the American Consulate, I then + addressed my old companions, saying, "You are now about to return to + Unyanyembe, to the 'Great Master'. You know him; you know he is a good + man, and has a kind heart. He is different from me; he will not beat you, + as I have done. But you know I have rewarded you all—how I have made + you all rich in cloth and money. You know how, when you behaved yourselves + well, I was your friend. I gave you plenty to eat and plenty to wear. When + you were sick I looked after you. If I was so good to you, the 'Great + Master' will be much more so. He has a pleasant voice, and speaks kind. + When did you ever see him lift his hand against an offender? When you were + wicked, he did not speak to you in anger—he spoke to you in tones of + sorrow. Now, will you promise me that you will follow him—do what he + tells you, obey him in all things, and not desert him?" + </p> + <p> + "We will, we will, my master!" they all cried, fervently. + </p> + <p> + "Then there is one thing more. I want to shake hands with you all before + you go—and we part for ever;" and they all rushed up at once, and a + vigorous shake was interchanged with each man. + </p> + <p> + "Now, let every man take up his load!" + </p> + <p> + In a short time I marched them out into the street, and to the beach; saw + them all on board, and the canvas hoisted, and the dhow speeding westward + on her way to Bagamoyo. + </p> + <p> + I felt strange and lonely, somehow. My dark friends, who had travelled + over so many hundreds of miles, and shared so many dangers with me, were + gone, and I—was left behind. How many of their friendly faces shall + I see again? + </p> + <p> + On the 29th, the steamer 'Africa,' belonging to the German Consulate, was + chartered by a party of five of us, and we departed from Zanzibar to + Seychelles, with the good wishes of almost all the European residents on + the island. + </p> + <p> + We arrived at Seychelles on the 9th of June, about twelve hours after the + French mail had departed for Aden. As there is only monthly communication + between Mahe (Seychelles) and Aden, we were compelled to remain on the + island of Mahe one month. + </p> + <p> + My life in Mahe is among the most agreeable things connected with my + return from Africa. I found my companions estimable gentlemen, and true + Christians. Mr. Livingstone exhibited many amiable traits of character, + and proved himself to be a studious, thoughtful, earnest man. When at last + the French steamer came from Mauritius, there was not one of our party who + did not regret leaving the beautiful island, and the hospitable British + officers who were stationed there. The Civil Commissioner, Mr. Hales + Franklyn, and Dr. Brooks, did their utmost to welcome the wanderer, and I + take this opportunity to acknowledge the many civilities I personally + received from them. + </p> + <p> + At Aden, the passengers from the south were transferred on board the + French mail steamer, the 'Mei-kong,' en route from China to Marseilles. At + the latter port I was received with open arms by Dr. Hosmer and the + representative of the 'Daily Telegraph,' and was then told how men + regarded the results of the Expedition; but it was not until I arrived in + England that I realised it. + </p> + <p> + Mr. Bennett, who originated and sustained the enterprise, now crowned it + by one of the most generous acts that could be conceived. I had promised + Dr. Livingstone, that twenty-four hours after I saw his letters to Mr. + Bennett published in the London journals, I would post his letters to his + family and friends in England. In order to permit me to keep my plighted + word, and in order that there might be no delay in the delivery of his + family letters, Mr. Bennett's agent telegraphed to New York the 'Herald' + letters I had received from Dr. Livingstone at an expense of nearly + £2,000. + </p> + <p> + And now, dear reader, the time has come for you and I to part. Let us hope + that it is not final. A traveller finds himself compelled to repeat the + regretful parting word often. During the career recorded in the foregoing + book, I have bidden many farewells; to the Wagogo, with their fierce + effrontery; to Mionvu, whose blackmailing once so affected me; to the + Wavinza, whose noisy clatter promised to provoke dire hostilities; to the + inhospitable Warundi; to the Arab slave-traders and half-castes; to all + fevers, remittent, and intermittent; to the sloughs and swamps of Makata; + to the brackish waters and howling wastes; to my own dusky friends and + followers, and to the hero-traveller and Christian gentleman, David + Livingstone. It is with kindliest wishes to all who have followed my + footsteps on these pages that I repeat once more—Farewell. + </p> + <p> + CONCLUDING CHAPTER. + </p> + <p> + The following correspondence, and especially the last letter, which was + accompanied by a beautiful and valuable gold snuff-box set with + brilliants, will be treasured by me as among the pleasantest results of my + undertaking. + </p> + <p> + H. M. S. + </p> + <p> + Foreign Office, August 1. + </p> + <p> + Sir, I am directed by Earl Granville to acknowledge the receipt of a + packet containing letters and despatches from Dr. Livingstone, which you + were good enough to deliver to her Majesty's ambassador at Paris for + transmission to this department; and I am to convey to you his Lordship's + thanks for taking charge of these interesting documents. + </p> + <p> + I am, Sir, + </p> + <p> + Your most obedient humble servant, ENFIELD. + </p> + <p> + Henry M. Stanley, Esq., 'New York Herald Bureau,' 46, Fleet Street, + London, + </p> + <p> + ———ooo—— + </p> + <p> + London, August 2. + </p> + <p> + Henry M. Stanley, Esq., has handed to me to-day the diary of Dr. + Livingstone, my father, sealed and signed by my father, with instructions + written on the outside, signed by my father, for the care of which, and + for all his actions concerning and to my father, our very best thanks are + due. We have not the slightest reason to doubt that this is my father's + journal, and I certify that the letters he has brought home are my + father's letters, and no others. + </p> + <p> + Tom S. Livingstone + </p> + <p> + ——————oooo———- + </p> + <p> + August 2, 1872. + </p> + <p> + Sir, I was not aware until you mentioned it that there was any doubt as to + the authenticity of Dr. Livingstone's despatches, which you delivered to + Lord Lyons on the 31st of July. But, in consequence of what you said I + have inquired into the matter, and I find that Mr. Hammond, the + Under-Secretary of the Foreign Office, and Mr. Wylde, the head of the + Consular and Slave Trade Department, have not the slightest doubt as to + the genuineness of the papers which have been received from Lord Lyons, + and which are being printed. + </p> + <p> + I cannot omit this opportunity, of expressing to you my admiration of the + qualities which have enabled you to achieve the object of your mission, + and to attain a result which has been hailed with so much enthusiasm both + in the United States and in this country. + </p> + <p> + I am, Sir, + </p> + <p> + Your obedient, + </p> + <p> + GRANVILLE. + </p> + <p> + Henry Stanley, Esq. + </p> + <p> + ——————-oooo———- + </p> + <p> + Foreign Office, August 27. + </p> + <p> + SIR, + </p> + <p> + I have great satisfaction in conveying to you, by command of the Queen, + her Majesty's high appreciation of the prudence and zeal which you have + displayed in opening a communication with Dr. Livingstone, and relieving + her Majesty from the anxiety which, in common with her subjects, she had + felt in regard to the fate of that distinguished traveller. + </p> + <p> + The Queen desires me to express her thanks for the service you have thus + rendered, together with her Majesty's congratulations on your having so + successfully carried on the mission which you fearlessly undertook. Her + Majesty also desires me to request your acceptance of the memorial which + accompanies this letter. + </p> + <p> + I am, Sir, + </p> + <p> + Your most obedient humble servant, + </p> + <p> + GRANVILLE + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + GLOSSARY. + + Boma....... enclosure. + + Bubu....... black beads. + + Diwan...... elder, chief, or magistrate. + + Doti...... four yards of cloth. + + Dowa...... medicine. + + Fundo...... ten necklaces, or ten khetes. + + Ghulabio..... a species of bead. + + Hafde ..... a species of bead. + + Hamal ..... carrier. + + Honga ..... tribute. + + Ismahili..... a native name for a particular kind of cloth. + + Kadunguru..... a brick-coloured species of bead. + + Kaif-Halek.... "How do you do?" + + Kaniki .... a blue cloth manufactured in India. + + Knambi .... camp. + + Khete .... one necklace, or a tenth of a fundo. + + Kichuma-chuma... "Little Irons," a disease of the liver. + + Kirangozi.... guide. + + Kitambi .... a cloth. + + Kiti..... stool. + + Lakhio..... a pink-coloured species of bead. + + Lunghio..... blue beads. + + Lunghio mbamba... small blue beads. + + Lunghio rega... large blue beads. + + M ..... a prefix to denote a person of any + country as M-jiji, a native of Jiji. + + Manyapara.... elder, or sub-chief. + + Matama..... Holcus sorghum, or the Arabic dourra. + + Mbembu..... forest peach + + Merikani..... unbleached domestics manufactured in + America. + + Mganga..... a medicine man, or magic doctor, + + Miezi-Mungu.... a Kisawahili term for "God." + + Mtemi .... a term synonymous with king + + Mtoni..... nullah. + + Muhongo..... tribute. + + Mulungu..... a native term for "God." + + Mukunguru.... intermittent fever. + + Mvuha..... thunder. + + Ngombe..... a cow. + + Pagazi..... a porter, or carrier. + + Posho..... food. + + Sami-Sami.... the name of red beads + + Shamba..... a field. + + Shasr..... a muslin cloth. + + Sheikh..... a title of courtesy given to an elderly + man. + + Shukka..... two yards of cloth. + + Sohari..... a kind of coloured cloth. + + Sungomazzi.... large glass or china beads of the size + of marbles. + + Toujiri..... the name for a particular kind of cloth. + + U ..... a prefix to denote the country: thus + U-jiji signifies the country of Jiji. + + Uganga..... medicine. + + Wa- ..... a prefix to denote persons: thus Wa-jiji + would signify people of Jiji. + + Washeni..... a term of contempt applied to the natives. + + Yambo..... "How are you?" + + Ziwa ..... a pool, or lake, + + Ziwari..... a pond. +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + APPENDIX. + + List of Camps from Bagamoyo to Ujiji and back to the Sea. +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + THROUGH UKWERE, UKAMI, AND UDOE TO USEGUHHA. + + From Bagamoyo to— h. m. + Shamba Gonera... 1 30 + Kikoka..... 3 40 + Rosako..... 5 0 + Kingaru.... 6 0 + Imbiki..... 4 30 + Msuwa..... 4 30 + + From Msuwa to— h. m. + Kisemo..... 4 30 + Mussoudi.... 4 20 + Mikeseh.... 7 0 + Muhalleh.... 6 45 + Simbamwenni... 3 0 + + TO UGOGO. + + USEGUHA, + Ungerengeri River to— h. m + Simbo..... 2 0 + Camp in plain... 4 10 + Makata River... 2 30 + + USAGARA. + Camp west of Makata. 0 5 + Camp in plain... 4 30 + Camp " "... 2 0 + Rehenneko.... 3 15 + Rehenneko to— h. m. + Camp on mountain.. 3 30 + Kiora..... 3 40 + Camp on river... 4 50 + Madete..... 2 30 + Lake Ugombo.... 3 0 + Matamombo.... 6 0 + Mpwapwa..... 7 0 + Kisokweh.... 2 0 + Chunyo..... 1 30 +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + FROM UGOGO TO UNYANYEMBE, + + From Marenga Mkali to—h. m. + Mvumi, Little Ugogo 12 30 + Mvumi, Great Ugogo 4 0 + Matamburu " ". 4 0 + Bihawana " ". 4 0 + Kididimo " ". 2 0 + Pembera Pereh ". 10 0 + Mizanza " ". 5 30 + Mukondoku " ". 6 30 + Munieka " ". 5 0 + Mabunguru Mtoni. + Uyanzi 8 0 + Kiti, Uyanzi... 6 30 + Msalalo.... 6 30 + + From Msalalo to— h. m. + Welled Ngaraiso.. 3 30 + Kusuri..... 3 15 + Mgongo Tembo... 3 30 + " " Mtoni. 3 30 + Nghwhalah Mtoni.. 2 40 + Madedita ... 2 30 + Central Tura, Unyam- + wezi.... 3 0 + Kwala River... 7 0 + Rubuga.... 7 15 + Kigwa .... 5 0 + Shiza .... 7 0 + Kwihara.... 3 0 +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + UNYANYEMBE TO MRERA, UKONONG0. +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + UNYAMWEZI. + From Kwihara to— h. m. + Mkwenkwe... 1 30 + Inesuka ... 2 0 + Kasegera... 3 0 + Kigandu ... 2 45 + Ugunda ... 7 0 + Benta ... 3 15 + Kikuru ... 5 0 + Ziwani ... 4 0 + Manyara ... 6 30 + + UKONONG0. + From Manyara to— h. m + Gombe River... 4 15 + Ziwani.... 5 20 + Tongoni.... 1 30 + Camp .... 5 15 + Marefu.... 3 0 + Utende.... 7 15 + Mtoni.... 4 0 + Mwaru.... 5 15 + Mrera..... 5 13 +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + FROM MRERA, UKONONGO TO UJIJI. +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + UKONONGO, h. m. + + From Mrera to Mtoni. 4 30 + Misonghi.... 4 30 + Mtoni..... 6 0 + Mpokwa in Utanda.. 4 45 + Mtoni .... 3 0 + + UKAWENDI. h. m + + Mtambu River... 4 30 + Imrera.... 4 20 + Rusawa Mts.... 2 30 + Mtoni .... 4 0 + Mtoni .... 5 0 + Camp in Forest... 6 0 + Camp in Forest... 5 30 + + UVINZA + Welled Nzogera... 2 30 + Camp in Forest... 4 15 + Siala [Kiala?] on the + Malagarazi... 2 45 + Ihata Island in the + Malagarazi... 1 30 + Katalambula... 1 45 + + UHHA + Kawanga in Uhha.. 5 30 + Lukomo.... 1 0 + Kahirigi.... 4 0 + Rusugi River... 5 0 + Lake Musunya... 4 0 + Rugufu River... 4 30 + Sunuzzi "... 3 0 + Niamtaga Ukaranga. 9 30 + + UJIJI. + Port of Ujiji.. 6 0 +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + INDEX + + Abdul Kader, tailor of the Expedition; retirement of, + Abdullah bin Nasib, + Acacia Horrida, + African bridges, + Ali bin Salim, + Ambari, + Amer bin Sultan, type of an old Arab Sheikh, + Amram bin Mussood, + Ant-hills, remarkable, + Ants, white, destructiveness of, + Arabs, antipathy to, as slave-traders, in Africa, + Aranselar, chief butler of the Expedition, + Asmani, giant statue of; + his murderous deportment, + + Baba (Father), term of courtesy in addressing elderly persons, + Bagamoyo, French Mission Station at; life at; climate of, + Bambarre, ivory depot, + Bana Mikuba, the "Big Master,' + Bangwe Island, + Bangweolo Lake, + Banyans, keen trading of; + their influence on African trade, + Baobab, fruit of the, + Baruti, one of Speke's Faithfuls, + death of, + Beads as currency in the Interior, + Bees, attack of, on the caravan, + Bemba, wooded hills of, + Bennet, Mr. James Gordon; + generous act of, in respect + to Dr. Livingstone's letters, + Benta forest, + Bihawana, + Bikari, cluster of villages, + "Bombay," or Mombay, + Bomboma's village, + Borassus flabelliformis, or Palmyra palm, + Brooks, Dr., + Buffalo gnats, + ——herd, + Bunder Salaam, cook of the Expedition, + Burial ceremonies, + Burton, Capt., experience of Bunyans, + Bustard, + + Cazembe, King; his Queen and her Amazons, + Chamati Hill, + Chambezi, drainage of, + Chambezi, Livingstone's difficulty about the, + "Charley's" lodging-house at Zanzibar, kindly spirit of its + landlord, + Chowpereh, Mgwana soldier,, + Christie, Dr., physician to Seyd Burghash + Chufwa fly, + Chuma, Dr. Livingstone's servant, + Cloth as currency in the interior, + Comorines, + Corn-grinding women of Kisemo, + Crocodile, narrow escape of author from, + + 'Daily Telegraph,' representative of, at Aden, + Dawson, Lieut., visit from, conversation as to his resigning + command of the Search Expedition + Dhows, + Dilima Peaks, + Dogara, or whitebait, + Donkeys, equipment of; fine breed of, in Ubanarama, + "Dowa," medicine, + + Earwigs, plague of, at Mpwapwa, + Elephantiasis common in Zanzibar, + Elephants, herd of; difficulty of shooting, + Emancipation Proclamation of Ahraham Lincoln, + Esau, Jemadar, + + Farquhar, W. L.; + his death; account of, + Faulkner, Mr., incredible statements of, + Ferajji, + Fire-arms, what most suitable to the traveller + Fish-eagle, + Forest peach, + Forest scenery of Unyarnwezi, + Foreign Office, letters from, + Franklyn, Mr. Hales, + Fraser, Capt., + Freiligrath's description of the lion's habitat, + French Mlissionaries, practical character of; Mission Station + at Bagamoyo, + + Giraffes, difficulty of killing, + Glossina mortisans, or tsetse fly + Goma Pass; + Granville, Lord, letter from, conveying the thanks of Queen + Victoria and the announcement of the Royal present, + Goodhue, Mr., or "Bana Mkuba." + + Haematite, + Half-castes, contemptible character + Halimah, Dr. Livingstone's cook, + Hassan, the Mseguhha, + Henn Lieut, his meeting with the author; resigns the leadership + Herembe, Cape, + Herodotus, his account of the Nile sources, + Hindis, Mohammedan, cheating character of, + Hippopotami + Honey-bird; habits of, + Honga, or tribute, + Hosmer, Dr., + Hunters Paradise, the, + Hyaenas, + + Ibrahim bin Rashid slain, + Ihata Island, + Imbiki, + Itage village, + + Jako, employe of the Expedition, + Jesuit Mission at Pagamoyo, + Jiweh la Singa district, + Johari, dragoman, + Jumah, + Jungle of Msuwa, its horrors, + + Kabogi, Cape, + Kabogo Mountain, singular phenomenon of, + Kadetamare, or Misonghi, village,. + Kahirigi, boma of, + Kaif-Halek or "How-do-ye-do," the letter carrier, + Kalulu, the boy-slave, + Kamolondo Lake, + Kanengi River, + Kaniyaga village + Kanjee, + Kanyamabengu River, + Kanyenyi, + Kayeh, a myth, + Kasera ridge, + Katanga, copper mines of, + Katangara Islands, + Kavimba, + Khamis bin Abdullah; his death, + Khamisi, desertion of; his narrow escape; flogged for + desertion; precis of character, + Khonze, remarkable globes of foliage at + Kiala, chief, + Kigoma Bay, + Kigonda, chief, + Kigwena River, + Kikoka village, + Kikuma River, + Kingari River, + —— Valley, + Kingaru village + Kingwere, the canoe paddler + Kiora village,; Peak + Kirindo, chief, + Kirurumo village, + Kisabengo, chief, a minor Theodore, + Kisemo village; belles of, + Kisuka village, + Kisunwe River, + Kitanda or bedstead, + Kitii defile, + Kitunda Cape, + Kiwyeh, Sultan of; village, + Kiwrima Valley, + Kolquall or candelabra tree, + Kudu, + Kukumba Point, + Kulabi, + Kusuri or Konsuli, + Kwala Mtoni, + Kwikuru, + + Lares and Penates of the Wazavira, + Leukole's account of Farquhar's death, + Liemba, Lake, + Lincoln, Abraham, lake named after, by Livingstone, + Lion and leopard, home of the; Freiligrath's description of, + Liuche, valley of the, + Livingstone, Dr., the author's first interview with, at Ujiji; + his anxiety for news; the low ebb of his resources; + his early rising; took the author for an emissary of the + French Government; his hard fare; his suffering and privations; + revival of his enthusiasm; his guileless character; + his physical appearance,; absurd report of his marriage, + his general character and careful observations; sensitiveness + of criticism; amiable traits of his character, and his Spartan + heroism; his high spirits, inexhaustible humour, and retentive + memory; sincerity of his religion; ability to withstand the + African climate, due to his temperate life; his determination + to complete his task, spite of all difficulties, completeness + of his discoveries; summary of his experiences; interview with + King Cazembe; difficulty as to the Chambezi; discovery of Lake + Liemba; investigation of the Luapula; intervention in behalf of + Mahomed bin Sali repaid by base ingratitude; exploration of Uguhha; + sufferings at Bambarre, discovery of the Lualaba, description of + the beauties of Moero scenery; admiration of Abraham Lincoln; + his belief that the Lualaba or Webb's River is the true Nile; + his admission that the Nile sources have not been found; + his opinion as to the account of Herodotus; thwarted by the + cowardice of his men; return to Ujiji; dishonesty of Sherif; + destitute condition of the Doctor, his complaint of the Zanzibar + people not sending him freemen; improvement of his health from + more generous diet, contemplated cruise on the Tanganika; start + from Ujiji; liability to dysentery; manner of dealing with demands + for honga; loss of stores, &c., from Bombay's intoxication + his unwillingness to retaliate on the hostile natives, his + tenderness in sickness, disturbed in bed by his servant Susi in + a state of intoxication; his opinion that the Tanganika must have + an outlet; names the Kavunvweh islands the "New York Herald + Islets,"; his coolness at the hostility of the Wasansi, calms + them down by his gentle bearing and conversation; his resolve + to finish his task,; complaint of Dr. Kirk's sending only slaves; + resolves to accompany the author to Unyanyembe; his sufferings on + the road; at Mpokwa's village,; his value as a travelling companion; + stung by wild bees; his qualifications as a traveller, + peaceful recollections of his wife's grave, his relation of + incidents of the life of his son Robert; arrival at Ugundo, + letters from Dr. Kirk and home; welcome to Unyanyembe; in + comfortable quarters and in possession of stores; wreck of the + stores detained by Sayd bin Salim; in possession of four years' + store of supplies; his letter to Mr. Bennett, jun.; probable + results of his perseverance in African discovery; his last day + with the author; his intentions as to the future; the parting + farewell, + Livingstone, Mr. Oswell, introduction to; equipment of his proposed + expedition; determines to resign, + Livingstone, Robert Moffatt, incidents of his life, + Lizard, large, + Loeki or Lomani River, + Lualaba or "Webb's River" of Livingstone; thought by him to be the + true Nile, + Luapula River, + Lubilash River, + Ludha Damji, + Lufira River, + Luhanga Peak, + Lukomo village, + Luvumba Cape, + + Mabruki, cruel treatment of; + Mabunguru Nullah, + Madedita, + Magala, Mutware of, + Maganga, + Magunda Mkali, + Mahommed bin Sali, his release by Livingstone and subsequent + ingratitude, + Maizun, Mons., + Makata Valley; River; Plain, + Makumbi, chief, + Malagash, Inlet, + Malagarazi River, + Manyuema country, people of; the El Dorado of the Arabs; sought + as slaves, + Maganga, + Marefu, + Marenga Mkali, + Masangi, + Masika, or rainy season, + Matamombo, + Mazitu, marauding propensities of, + Mbawala, species of antelope, + Mbembu, or forest peach, + Mdaburu River, + Medicine for daubing warriors, + Mfuto, Eastern, + Mgongo Tembo, or "Elephant's Back," + Mgwana, + Mikiseh, + Mionvu, Mutware of Kimenyi, + Mirambo; defeated at Mfuto, + Misonghi, deserted village, + Mizanza, + Mkuti River, + Mkuyu, gigantic sycamore, + Moero Lake; beauty of the scenery, + Mohammed bin Abdulla slain, + Mohammed bin Gharib, + Monkeys, troop of, + Morris, Hon. E. J., + Mpokwa River, + Mponda, chief, + Mpwapwh, its fruitfulness; + Mountains, + Mrera, chief, + —-, warriors of, + Msuwa, + Mtemi, chief, + Mud-fish, + Mugere River, + Mugeyo village, + Mugihewa territory, + Mukamba, chief, + Mukondoku, chief, + Mukondokwa Range; Pass; River, + Mukungu, + Mukunguru, African intermittent fever, + Munieka, + Muniyi Usagara, + Murembwe Cape; Point, + Musa, chief of the Johanna men, + Muscat Arabs of Zanzibar, + Mussoudi, the Diwan's account of an extraordinary flood, + Musunya Lake, + Muzimu Island, + Mvumi village, + Mwaru, + Myombo tree, + Mussoud bin Abdhullah, + Mussoudi; beautiful prospect at, + + "Nazi-Moya" at Zanzibar, + Negroes of Zanzibar; character of, + New, Rev. Charles, introduction to, + "New York Herald" Islets, + Ngaraiso village, + Nghwhalah River, + Nguru Peak, + Niamtaga, + Niasanga village, + Niongo, + Nondo, Spoke's runaway, + Nyabigma Island, + Nyambwa, + Nzoe, antelope of Speke, + + "Omar," Mr. Stanley's watchdog; death of, + + Pallah buck, + Pembera Pereh, Sultan, + Perpusilla, the, + Piaggia, the Italian traveller, + Pisolitic limestone, + Pottery, native, of the Wazavira, + Price, Simon, Dr. Livingstone's servant, + + Queen Victoria, letter conveying the thanks of Her Majesty and + the announcement of the Royal present, + + Rehenneko village, + Rosako village, + Rua country; people, + Rubeho Slopes; Peak, + Rubuga, + Rudewa River, + Rugufu Lake, + Ruhinga, chief, + Rusizi River; problem of; delta of, + + Said bin Majid, + Salim bin Rashid, + Sultana of Simbamwenni, + Sami-sami, red beads, + Sayf, son of Ali, slain, + Sayd bin Salim's house, + Selim, interpreter, + ——, the Arab boy, + Seyd Burghash, Sultan of Zanzibar, + Sitting on pombe, + Sentakeyi, Cape, + Shaw, J. W.; leaves the expedition, + Shamba Gonera, or, "Gonera's Field," good disposition of the + Indian widow towards the whites; appearance of the place, + trade, &c., + Sheikh Sayd bin Selim, + ——- Hamed, + ——- Hassid, + ——- Khamis bin Abdullah, + ——- bin Nasib, + ——- Sulton bin Ali, + ——- Thani, + Sherif, Dr. Livingstone's servant; dishonesty of, + Shiza, + Sigunga, + Simbamwenni; desolation of by flood, + —————, Sultana of, + Simba, ruler of Kasera, + Simbo, + Simbo, Khambi, + Singwe, a plum-like fruit, + Slave-gang, chained, + Sofi beads, + Somalis; + Soor Hadji Palloo, + Soud, the Arab, + ——, son of Sayd bin Majid, + ——, bin Sayd, his attack on Wilyankura; his death, + Speke, Capt., his "Faithfuls"; treatment of "Bombay" by; + error of, as to altitude of Tanganika, + Stanley, Mr., start from Bombay; landing at Zanzibar; hospitable + reception by Capt. Webb; impressions of the city; + organization of the Expedition; visit to the Sultan; departure + from Zanzibar; landing at Bagamoyo; troublesome experiences; + visit to the "Livingstone caravan"; preparations for departure + into the interior, difficulties with employes; chase after a + thief, despatch of four caravans; departure of the fifth caravan, + led by himself; members composing it and outfit; the start, + first camp; Shamba Gonera; crossing the Kingani; hippopotami + shooting; Kikoka village; halt at Rosako; "Omar" watchdog, + missing; formidable number of insects, the tsetse-fly; game + hunting; difficulty of penetrating an African jungle; camp at + Kingaru; the grey Arab horse, and offence given by its interment; + interview with the king of Kingaru; loss of the re maiming horse + from cancer; desertion and sickness; appearance of Maganga's + caravan march to Imbiki; reach Msuwa, perils of the jungle, + astonishment of the chief; chained slave-gang; halt at + Kisemo; belle of; narrow escape of Khamisi; flogged for + desertion; reach Mussoudi; beautiful prospect; cross the + Ungerengeri start for Mikeseh; Ulagalla and Muhalleh; + overtake Maganga's caravan; meet with Selim bin Rashid, + news of Livingstone; pass town of Simbamwenni; its + fortifications; curiosity of the inhabitants; two + days' halt and overhaul of the luggage, attack of ague; + visit of ambassadors of the Sultana of Simbamwenni; + wretched encampment on the Ungerengeri; difficulty of + crossing the river; Makata Valley; loss of Bombay's + equipage,; difficulties of the Makata Valley; escape + and capture of Kingaru; emerge from the swamp Makata, + attack of dysentery, halt at Reheneko; ascent of the + Usagara Mountains; Mukondokwa Valley and River; Kiora; + camp at, illness of Farquhar; ford of the Mukondokwa + River; Madete, Lake of Ugombe; departure from Ugombo; + camp at Matamombo, death of of the dog "Omar"; Sheikh + Thani in clover at Mpwapwa, a good breakfast and + dinner, Farquhar left to be nursed; twelve pagazis + engaged, abundance of earwigs and white ants; Chunyo, + badness of the water; Marenga Mkali waterless district; + attack of fever; Ugogo; frantic conduct of the population; + West Mvumi; the Sultan's exorbitant demand of honda; + Matamburu, reasonableness of the Sultan of; Bihiwana; + attack of intermittent fever; Kididimo, bleak aspect + and bad water; Nyambwa, demonstrativeness of the people; + Mizanza; benefit from quinine; visit from the Sultan; + Little Mukondoku; Mukondoku Proper; commotion and + cowardice; uproar in the camp; debate as to route; + threatened mutiny; Munieka; Mabunguru Nullah; + Unyambogi; Kiti, Msalalo; Ngaraiso, Kirurumo, + greeting from the villagers; interview with Sultan + bin Mahommed; halt at Kusuri, and Mgongo Tembo; + Nghwhalah Mtoni, abundance of sweet, water; + Madedita, tsete-fly troublesome; reach Unyamwezi + territory at Eastern Tura, cultivated region; + Nondo, Speke's runaway; Central Tura, attempted night + robbery, a thief shot dead; pass Western Tura; Kwala + Mtoni, mud-fish; illness of the tailor, Abdul Kader, + he wishes to give up his post; Rubuga, desolation of, + since Burton's visit; meeting with Amer bin Sultan, + Kigwa, wasted condition of; Shiza, pastoral aspect of, + visit from the Sultan; rejoicings in camp on reaching + Unyanyembe territory; life in Unyanyembe; breakfast and + gossip with Sayd bin Salim; Kazeh, a myth; leave Kwikuru; + in comfortable quarters; visit from the Tabora Arab magnates; + Tabora, chief Arab settlement in central Africa; attend a + council of war, feast at the close of the council; return + to Kwihara; the Livingstone caravan's halt of 100 days; + attack of fever; preparations for the march; warlike + demonstration; Eastern Mfuto, illness of Shaw, + personnel of the army; Umanda, medicine daubing; + war harangue; Zimbizo, attack on the village; fate + of Soud bin Sayd and his Arabs; retreat and stormy + councils of war; further retreat of the Arabs to Tabora, + serious position of the Expedition; intelligence + of Livingstone; news of death of Farquhar; illness + of Shaw, attack of Mirambo on Tabora; Khamis bin + Abdullah, &c., slain; preparations for Mirambo's threatened + attack on Kwihara; visit to Sheikh bin Nassib; retreat + of Mirambo, determination to lead a flying caravan + to Ujiji; apathy of Shaw, visit to Thani bin Abdullah, + arrival of letters; death of Baruti, evil reports by + the Arabs; present of a boy-slave; defeat of Mirambo at + Mfuto; nursing experiences: farewell feast at Unyanyembe; + march to Ujiji commenced by southern route; list of "braves" + of the Expedition; Bombay's tender passion; the start; + Shaw shows the white feather; Kinyamwezi village, attack + of fever; arrest of runaways, threat of slave-chain; + Inesuka, further desertions, punishment, withdrawal of + Abdul Kader, the tailor; sickness in camp, adverse + appearances; Kasegara, rejoicings at; Kigandu, Shaw's + by-play; his withdrawal; beauty of Unyamwezi forest + scenery; Ugunda; Benta; Kikuru, the mukunguru or fever; + camp at Ziwani; gigantic sycamore; Manyara, cultivated + region; difficulty of buying provisions; visit of Mtemi; + his astonishment at the author's medicine-chest; Gombe + River, its beautiful neighbourhood; narrow escape from a + crocodile, suspicious-looking natives; a peaceful camp-scene; + symptoms of revolt at starting onwards; murderous aspect of + Asmani and Mabruki; the march- resumed; sketch of the principal + men of the Expedition; Ziwani (pool), waterless condition of; + Tongoni, abundance of honey-birds; Marefu, rumours of war in + our front; march through a forest abounding with peach-trees; + Utende village; Mwaru, supposed report of Livingstone, Mrera's + district, wild elephants; Selim falls ill, start from Mrera + north-westward; confidence restored in the camp, remarkable + ant-hills; camp in the jungle; embassy from Simba; Uzavira, + ruined neighbourhood of; Misonghi; Mpokwa River, deserted + village near; Mtambu stream, its beauty; attack by a leopard; + shot at a wild boar; proximity of lions; Itaga village, + beginning of troubles, shortness of provisions, "Welled + Nzogera's" village, abundant supplies; crossing a marsh; + reach the Malagarazi; heavy exaction of the chief Kiala; + island of Ihata, fresh demands for ferriage; donkey seized + by crocodile; Uvinza, news of Livingstone, departure from + the Malagarazi; country of Uhha; halt at Kawanga; halt on + the Pombwe stream, interview with Mionvu; exorbitant demand + of honga; cross the Kanengi River; more claims of honga; + departure by stealth; Kanengi River; cross the Rusugi; + Lake Musunya, Rugufu River, Kabogo Mountain, singular + phenomenon of; Sunuzzi River; enter Ukaranga; beauty + of the landscape; Mkute River, Niamtaga, alarm of the + people; first view of the Tanganika, Port of Ujiji in + view; salute announcing the approach of the caravan; meeting + with Susi, the servant of Dr. Livingstone; excitement of + the inhabitants; appearance of the Doctor; the introduction; + conversation; the over-due letter-bag, 365 days from Zanzibar; + budget of news; intercourse with Livingstone; suggestions + as to his future course; start with Livingstone for cruise + on the Tanganika; pass Bangwe Island; wooded hills of Bemba; + camp at Niasanga; Nyabigma Island; Mukungu; loss of valuables + from Bombay's intoxication; hostile demonstrations of the Bikari + people; bivouac on the shore disturbed by natives; round + Cape Sentakeyi, and sleep at Mugeyo; Magala, hospitality of + the people, visit of the Mutware of; rumours of wars; + Kisiku, native report as to the Rusizi River; Mugere, delta + of the; visit Mukamba, attacked by fever and experience + Livingstone's tenderness; Susi's drunken fit; Mugihewa + territory on the delta of the Rusizi; visit of the chief + Ruhinga, his geographical information; exploration + of the Rusizi debouchure: Kukubma Point, enchanting scenery + near; halt at Bemba, superstition of the Wajiji; 'New York + Herald Islets,' so named by Livingstone; Cape Luvumba + hostile aspect of the Wasansi, return to Ujiji, domestic + and foreign news; at home with Livingstone; preparations + for march to Unyanyembe; attack of fever; Christmas-day + at Ujiji; the departure; meet with Mohammed bin Gharib; + Sirgunga, beautiful aspect of; sport at Urimba; homeward bound; + an elephant herd; Ukawendi, luxuriance of its vegetation; + painful march to Imrera; a giraffe shot; severe attack of + fever, the Doctor's prescription; the caravan attacked by + bees; Mrera, meeting with caravan sent by Sayd bin Habid, + exchange of news, encounter a lion; Ugunda, the deserter + Hamdallah retaken; receipt of letters and newspapers; + welcome to Unyanyembe; stores found tampered with; + a second Christmas celebration, four years' stores of + supplies turned over to the Doctor, commission to enlist + at Zanzibar fifty freemen as his carriers; farewell dance + of natives; choragic adieu of the Wanyamwezi; last night + with Livingstone; the last walk in his company, the farewell; + a letter from the Doctor; Ngaraiso, hostility of the Wakimbu, + enter Ugogo; warlike demonstrations, march of warriors + arrayed for the fight; Khonze, its gigantic tree-foliage; + determined mode of dealing with the chief successfull; + Kanyenyi, cordial reception by the Msagira of; Mapanga, + hostile demonstration; asked to act as rain-maker; Kulabi, + suffer from a "peppo"; Marenga Mkali; Mpwapwa, death of + Farquhar; Mukondokwa valley, experience of the Masika; + Makata plain, battling with the floods; Mvumi village, + fighting with mosquitoes; the Doctor's despatches in danger; + a perilous ford; ten days' camp at Rehenneko, difficulties + of the march to the Makata River; arrive at Simbo, cross the + Unkerengere, and reach Simbamwenni, its desolated aspect; + Ulagalla, extraordinary devastation by flood; Msuwa, horrors + of its jungle; Kingaru Hera, news of the Zanzibar storm; + Rosako, welcome consignment from the American Consul; + ill-natured criticisms, information as to the "Livingstone + Search and Relief Expedition"; Ringweare's ferry, a watery waste, + four miles broad; welcome to Bagamoyo; meeting with Lieut. Henn; + introduction to Mr. Oswell Livingstone; the march ended; + welcome at Zanzibar, the American Consul and Rev. C. New; + congratulation of Lieut. Dawson; discussion as to his resignation; + visit from Dr. Kirk and Bishop Tozer, change in the author's + appearance on his return; preparations for Mr. O. Livingstone's + Expedition, his resignation, selection of an Arab leader, + farewell to old travelling companions; departure from + Zanzibar in the 'Africa'; reach Seychelles, a month's delay + at Mahe, agreeable intercourse; reach England via Aden and + Marseilles. + Sultan bin Mohammed, + Sultan of Zanzibar, Mr. Stanley's interview with, + Sunuzzi stream, + Susi, Dr. Livingstone's servant, + Swaruru, Sultan, + Sycamore, gigantic, + + Tabora, + Tagamoyo, massacre of the Wamanyuema by, + Tanganika Lake, first visit to; cruise on, with Dr. Livingstone, + Tarya Topan, integrity of + Thani bin Abdullah,, + Tongoni, deserted clearing, + Tozer, Bp., his residence at Zanzibar; his congratulations at + the author's success, + Trade, mode of conducting, in Africa, + Tsetse fly, + Tura, Eastern; Central,; + Western or Tura Perro; + + Udoe, cones of, + "Uganga," or charm, + Ugombo, Lake; Peak, Plain, + Ugunda village, + Uhha, king of, + Ujiji, port of, + Ukaranga territory, its beautiful aspect, + Ukawendi country, scenery of, + Ulagalla district, + Ulimengo, absconding slave, + Unamapokera, friendliness of, + Ungerengeri River; Valley, + Urundi Mountains, + Unyamwezi forest scenery, beauty of; territory, + Unyambogi, + Urimba, camp at, + Usagara Mountains, + Utende village, + Uwelasia River, + Uyanzi, Magunda Mkali; or "Hot Field," + Uyoweh, Mirambo of, + Uzavira, village in, + + Waganga, or medicine men; filthy war-potion, concocted by, + Wagogo tribe, villages of, + Wagtails regarded as birds of good omen, + Waguhha tribe, + Wagunda tribe, + Wahumba tribe, + Wajiji tribe, + Wakimbu of Tura, rascality of, + ———- tribe; villages of, + Wakonongo, + Wamanyuema, fondness of, for marketing, + Wangwana village, + ———- tribe, gormandizing of the, + Wanyamwezi tribe, their superstitious aversion to antelope meat, + War, council of, at Tabora, + Warfare, tame mode of conducting, + Wa-Ruga-Ruga, + Wasawahili tribe, + Wasansi tribe, + Waseguhha tribe, + Washenshi tribe, + Wasungu tribe, + Wavinza tribe, greed of + Wavira tribe, + Webb, Capt. F. R., U.S. Consul, his hospitality and courtesy, + ——, Mr. of Newstead Abbey, river named after him, + ——, Mrs., + Wagogo, cool impudence of the, + Wilderness, African, more favourable to the traveller than + the populated country, + Wild-boar shooting, + Wilyankuru, attack on, + Wire, high valve of, in the interior, + + Zanzibar city view of, from the bay, harbor + "Charley's" lodging house,; character of the street + and population, trade, "M'nazi Moya"; house of Bishop + Tozer, mart of the interior, mode of commerce unchanged + for ages; population; filth and unhealthiness of; + inertness induced by climate of; Palace of the Sultan, + ——- Island; its aspect from the sea, + Zassi River and village, + Zebra, + Zimbizo, attack on the village, + Zimmerman on the benefit of an unencumbered mind, + Ziwo, or pond, + Ziwani (pool), + Zogga, palm toddy, +</pre> + <div style="height: 6em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + + + + + +End of Project Gutenberg's How I Found Livingstone, by Henry M. 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