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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of How I Found Livingstone, by Sir Henry M. Stanley
+
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+Title: How I Found Livingstone
+
+Author: Sir Henry M. Stanley
+
+Release Date: February, 2004  [EBook #5157]
+[Yes, we are more than one year ahead of schedule]
+[This file was first posted on May 18, 2002]
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+Edition: 10
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+Language: English
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+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK, HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE ***
+
+
+
+
+This eBook was produced by Geoffrey Cowling.
+
+
+
+HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
+Travels, Adventures and Discoveries in Central Africa
+including four months residence with Dr. Livingstone
+
+by
+
+Sir Henry M. Stanley, G.C.B.
+
+Abridged
+
+
+
+CHAPTER. I.
+
+INTRODUCTORY.  MY INSTRUCTIONS TO FIND AND RELIEVE LIVINGSTONE.
+
+
+On the sixteenth day of October, in the year of our Lord one
+thousand eight hundred and sixty-nine, I was in Madrid, fresh from
+the carnage at Valencia.  At 10 A.M. Jacopo, at No.-- Calle de la
+Cruz, handed me a telegram: It read, "Come to Paris on important
+business." The telegram was from Mr. James Gordon Bennett, jun.,
+the young manager of the `New York Herald.'
+
+Down came my pictures from the walls of my apartments on the
+second floor; into my trunks went my books and souvenirs, my
+clothes were hastily collected, some half washed, some from the
+clothes-line half dry, and after a couple of hours of hasty hard
+work my portmanteaus were strapped up and labelled "Paris."
+
+At 3 P.M. I was on my way, and being obliged to stop at Bayonne a
+few hours, did not arrive at Paris until the following night.  I
+went straight to the `Grand Hotel,' and knocked at the door of
+Mr. Bennett's room.
+
+"Come in," I heard a voice say.  Entering, I found Mr. Bennett in
+bed.  "Who are you?" he asked.
+
+"My name is Stanley," I answered.
+
+"Ah, yes! sit down; I have important business on hand for you."
+
+After throwing over his shoulders his robe-de-chambre Mr. Bennett
+asked, "Where do you think Livingstone is?"
+
+"I really do not know, sir."
+
+"Do you think he is alive?"
+
+"He may be, and he may not be," I answered.
+
+"Well, I think he is alive, and that he can be found, and I am
+going to send you to find him."
+
+"What!" said I, "do you really think I can find Dr Livingstone?
+Do you mean me to go to Central Africa?"
+
+"Yes; I mean that you shall go, and find him wherever you may
+hear that he is, and to get what news you can of him, and perhaps"
+--delivering himself thoughtfully and deliberately--"the old man
+may be in want:--take enough with you to help him should he require
+it.  Of course you will act according to your own plans, and do
+what you think best--BUT FIND LIVINGSTONE!"
+
+Said I, wondering at the cool order of sending one to Central
+Africa to search for a man whom I, in common with almost all other
+men, believed to be dead, "Have you considered seriously the
+great expense you are likely, to incur on account of this little
+journey?"
+
+"What will it cost?" he asked abruptly.
+
+"Burton and Speke's journey to Central Africa cost between £3,000
+and £5,000, and I fear it cannot be done under £2,500."
+
+"Well, I will tell you what you will do.  Draw a thousand pounds
+now; and when you have gone through that, draw another thousand,
+and when that is spent, draw another thousand, and when you have
+finished that, draw another thousand, and so on; but, FIND
+LIVINGSTONE."
+
+Surprised but not confused at the order--for I knew that Mr.
+Bennett when once he had made up his mind was not easily drawn
+aside from his purpose--I yet thought, seeing it was such a
+gigantic scheme, that he had not quite considered in his own mind
+the pros and cons of the case; I said, "I have heard that should
+your father die you would sell the `Herald' and retire from
+business."
+
+"Whoever told you that is wrong, for there is not, money enough in
+New York city to buy the `New York Herald.'  My father has made
+it a great paper, but I mean to make it greater.  I mean that it
+shall be a newspaper in the true sense of the word.  I mean that
+it shall publish whatever news will be interesting to the world at
+no matter what cost."
+
+"After that," said I, "I have nothing more to say.  Do you mean
+me to go straight on to Africa to search for Dr. Livingstone?"
+
+"No!  I wish you to go to the inauguration of the Suez Canal
+first, and then proceed up the Nile.  I hear Baker is about
+starting for Upper Egypt.  Find out what you can about his
+expedition, and as you go up describe as well as possible
+whatever is interesting for tourists; and then write up a guide--
+a practical one--for Lower Egypt; tell us about whatever is worth
+seeing and how to see it.
+
+"Then you might as well go to Jerusalem; I hear Captain Warren is
+making some interesting discoveries there.  Then visit
+Constantinople, and find out about that trouble between the Khedive
+and the Sultan.
+
+"Then--let me see--you might as well visit the Crimea and those
+old battle-grounds, Then go across the Caucasus to the Caspian Sea;
+I hear there is a Russian expedition bound for Khiva.  From thence
+you may get through Persia to India; you could write an interesting
+letter from Persepolis.
+
+"Bagdad will be close on your way to India; suppose you go
+there, and write up something about the Euphrates Valley Railway.
+Then, when you have come to India, you can go after Livingstone.
+Probably you will hear by that time that Livingstone is on his
+way to Zanzibar; but if not, go into the interior and find him.
+If alive, get what news of his discoveries you can; and if you
+find he is dead, bring all possible proofs of his being dead.
+That is all.  Good-night, and God be with you."
+
+"Good-night, Sir," I said, "what it is in the power of human
+nature to do I will do; and on such an errand as I go upon, God
+will be with me."
+
+I lodged with young Edward King, who is making such a name in New
+England.  He was just the man who would have delighted to tell the
+journal he was engaged upon what young Mr. Bennett was doing, and
+what errand I was bound upon.
+
+I should have liked to exchange opinions with him upon the probable
+results of my journey, but I dared not do so.  Though oppressed
+with the great task before me, I had to appear as if only going to
+be present at the Suez Canal.  Young King followed me to the
+express train bound for Marseilles, and at the station we parted:
+he to go and read the newspapers at Bowles' Reading-room--I to
+Central Africa and--who knows?
+
+There is no need to recapitulate what I did before going to Central
+Africa.
+
+I went up the Nile and saw Mr. Higginbotham, chief engineer in
+Baker's Expedition, at Philae, and was the means of preventing
+a duel between him and a mad young Frenchman, who wanted to fight
+Mr. Higginbotham with pistols, because that gentleman resented
+the idea of being taken for an Egyptian, through wearing a fez cap.
+I had a talk with Capt. Warren at Jerusalem, and descended one
+of the pits with a sergeant of engineers to see the marks of
+the Tyrian workmen on the foundation-stones of the Temple of Solomon.
+I visited the mosques of Stamboul with the Minister Resident of
+the United States, and the American Consul-General.  I travelled
+over the Crimean battle-grounds with Kinglake's glorious books
+for reference in my hand.  I dined with the widow of General
+Liprandi at Odessa.  I saw the Arabian traveller Palgrave at
+Trebizond, and Baron Nicolay, the Civil Governor of the Caucasus,
+at Tiflis.  I lived with the Russian Ambassador while at Teheran,
+and wherever I went through Persia I received the most hospitable
+welcome from the gentlemen of the Indo-European Telegraph Company;
+and following the examples of many illustrious men, I wrote my
+name upon one of the Persepolitan monuments.  In the month of
+August, 1870, I arrived in India.
+
+On the 12th of October I sailed on the barque 'Polly'  from
+Bombay to Mauritius.  As the 'Polly' was a slow sailer, the
+passage lasted thirty-seven days.  On board this barque was
+a William Lawrence Farquhar--hailing from Leith, Scotland--
+in the capacity of first-mate.  He was an excellent navigator,
+and thinking he might be useful to me, I employed him; his pay
+to begin from the date we should leave Zanzibar for Bagamoyo.
+As there was no opportunity of getting, to Zanzibar direct,
+I took ship to Seychelles.  Three or four days after arriving
+at Mahe, one of the Seychelles group, I was fortunate enough
+to get a passage for myself, William Lawrence Farquhar, and
+an Arab boy from Jerusalem, who was to act as interpreter--
+on board an American whaling vessel, bound for Zanzibar;
+at which port we arrived on the 6th of January, 1871.
+
+I have skimmed over my travels thus far, because these do not
+concern the reader.  They led over many lands, but this book is
+only a narrative of my search after Livingstone, the great
+African traveller.  It is an Icarian flight of journalism, I
+confess; some even have called it Quixotic; but this is a word I
+can now refute, as will be seen before the reader arrives at the
+"Finis."
+
+I have used the word "soldiers" in this book.  The armed escort a
+traveller engages to accompany him into East Africa is composed of
+free black men, natives of Zanzibar, or freed slaves from the
+interior, who call themselves "askari," an Indian name which,
+translated, means "soldiers." They are armed and equipped like
+soldiers, though they engage themselves also as servants; but it
+would be more pretentious in me to call them servants, than to use
+the word "soldiers;" and as I have been more in the habit of
+calling them soldiers than "my watuma"--servants--this habit has
+proved too much to be overcome.  I have therefore allowed the word
+"soldiers " to appear, accompanied, however, with this apology.
+
+But it must be remembered that I am writing a narrative of my own
+adventures and travels, and that until I meet Livingstone, I
+presume the greatest interest is attached to myself, my marches,
+my troubles, my thoughts, and my impressions.  Yet though I may
+sometimes write, "my expedition," or "my caravan," it by no
+means follows that I arrogate to myself this right.  For it must
+be distinctly understood that it is the "`New York Herald'
+Expedition," and that I am only charged with its command by
+Mr. James Gordon Bennett, the proprietor of the `New York Herald,'
+as a salaried employ of that gentleman.
+
+One thing more; I have adopted the narrative form of relating
+the story of the search, on account of the greater interest it
+appears to possess over the diary form, and I think that in this
+manner I avoid the great fault of repetition for which some
+travellers have been severely criticised.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II.  ZANZIBAR.
+
+On the morning of the 6th January, 1871, we were sailing through
+the channel that separates the fruitful island of Zanzibar from
+Africa.  The high lands of the continent loomed like a lengthening
+shadow in the grey of dawn.  The island lay on our left, distant
+but a mile, coming out of its shroud of foggy folds bit by bit as
+the day advanced, until it finally rose clearly into view, as
+fair in appearance as the fairest of the gems of creation.  It
+appeared low, but not flat; there were gentle elevations cropping
+hither and yon above the languid but graceful tops of the
+cocoa-trees that lined the margin of the island, and there were
+depressions visible at agreeable intervals, to indicate where a
+cool gloom might be found by those who sought relief from a hot
+sun.  With the exception of the thin line of sand, over which the
+sap-green water rolled itself with a constant murmur and moan, the
+island seemed buried under one deep stratum of verdure.
+
+The noble bosom of the strait bore several dhows speeding in and
+out of the bay of Zanzibar with bellying sails.  Towards the
+south, above the sea line of the horizon, there appeared the naked
+masts of several large ships, and to the east of these a dense mass
+of white, flat-topped houses.  This was Zanzibar, the capital of the
+island;--which soon resolved itself into a pretty large and compact
+city, with all the characteristics of Arab architecture.  Above
+some of the largest houses lining the bay front of the city
+streamed the blood-red banner of the Sultan, Seyd Burghash, and the
+flags of the American, English, North German Confederation, and
+French Consulates.  In the harbor were thirteen large ships, four
+Zanzibar men-of-war, one English man-of-war--the `Nymphe,' two
+American, one French, one Portuguese, two English, and two German
+merchantmen, besides numerous dhows hailing from Johanna and
+Mayotte of the Comoro Islands, dhows from Muscat and Cutch--traders
+between India, the Persian Gulf, and Zanzibar.
+
+It was with the spirit of true hospitality and courtesy that
+Capt. Francis R. Webb, United States Consul, (formerly of the
+United States Navy), received me.  Had this gentleman not rendered
+me such needful service, I must have condescended to take board and
+lodging at a house known as "Charley's," called after the
+proprietor, a Frenchman, who has won considerable local notoriety
+for harboring penniless itinerants, and manifesting a kindly
+spirit always, though hidden under such a rugged front; or I
+should have been obliged to pitch my double-clothed American drill
+tent on the sandbeach of this tropical island, which was by no
+means a desirable thing.
+
+But Capt. Webb's opportune proposal to make his commodious and
+comfortable house my own; to enjoy myself, with the request that
+I would call for whatever I might require, obviated all unpleasant
+alternatives.
+
+One day's life at Zanzibar made me thoroughly conscious of my
+ignorance respecting African people and things in general.  I
+imagined I had read Burton and Speke through, fairly well, and
+that consequently I had penetrated the meaning, the full
+importance and grandeur, of the work I was about to be engaged upon.
+But my estimates, for instance, based upon book information,
+were simply ridiculous, fanciful images of African attractions
+were soon dissipated, anticipated pleasures vanished, and all
+crude ideas began to resolve themselves into shape.
+
+I strolled through the city.  My general impressions are of
+crooked, narrow lanes, white-washed houses, mortar-plastered
+streets, in the clean quarter;--of seeing alcoves on each side,
+with deep recesses, with a fore-ground of red-turbaned Banyans,
+and a back-ground of flimsy cottons, prints, calicoes, domestics
+and what not; or of floors crowded with ivory tusks; or of dark
+corners with a pile of unginned and loose cotton; or of stores of
+crockery, nails, cheap Brummagem ware, tools, &c., in what I call
+the Banyan quarter;--of streets smelling very strong--in fact,
+exceedingly, malodorous, with steaming yellow and black bodies, and
+woolly heads, sitting at the doors of miserable huts, chatting,
+laughing, bargaining, scolding, with a compound smell of hides,
+tar, filth, and vegetable refuse, in the negro quarter;--of streets
+lined with tall, solid-looking houses, flat roofed, of great carved
+doors with large brass knockers, with baabs sitting cross-legged
+watching the dark entrance to their masters' houses; of a shallow
+sea-inlet, with some dhows, canoes, boats, an odd steam-tub or two,
+leaning over on their sides in a sea of mud which the tide has just
+left behind it; of a place called "M'nazi-Moya," "One Cocoa-tree,"
+whither Europeans wend on evenings with most languid steps, to
+inhale the sweet air that glides over the sea, while the day is
+dying and the red sun is sinking westward; of a few graves of
+dead sailors, who paid the forfeit of their lives upon arrival
+in this land; of a tall house wherein lives Dr. Tozer, "Missionary
+Bishop of Central Africa," and his school of little Africans; and
+of many other things, which got together into such a tangle, that
+I had to go to sleep, lest I should never be able to separate
+the moving images, the Arab from the African; the African from
+the Banyan; the Banyan from the Hindi; the Hindi from the European,
+&c.
+
+Zanzibar is the Bagdad, the Ispahan, the Stamboul, if you like, of
+East Africa.  It is the great mart which invites the ivory traders
+from the African interior.  To this market come the gum-copal, the
+hides, the orchilla weed, the timber, and the black slaves from
+Africa.  Bagdad had great silk bazaars, Zanzibar has her ivory
+bazaars; Bagdad once traded in jewels, Zanzibar trades in
+gum-copal; Stamboul imported Circassian and Georgian slaves;
+Zanzibar imports black beauties from Uhiyow, Ugindo, Ugogo,
+Unyamwezi and Galla.
+
+The same mode of commerce obtains here as in all Mohammedan
+countries--nay, the mode was in vogue long before Moses was born.
+The Arab never changes.  He brought the custom of his forefathers
+with him when he came to live on this island.  He is as much of an
+Arab here as at Muscat or Bagdad; wherever he goes to live he
+carries with him his harem, his religion, his long robe, his shirt,
+his slippers, and his dagger.  If he penetrates Africa, not all the
+ridicule of the negroes can make him change his modes of life.  Yet
+the land has not become Oriental; the Arab has not been able to
+change the atmosphere.  The land is semi-African in aspect; the
+city is but semi-Arabian.
+
+To a new-comer into Africa, the Muscat Arabs of Zanzibar are
+studies.  There is a certain empressement about them which we must
+admire.  They are mostly all travellers.  There are but few of
+them who have not been in many dangerous positions, as they
+penetrated Central Africa in search of the precious ivory; and
+their various experiences have given their features a certain
+unmistakable air of-self-reliance, or of self-sufficiency; there
+is a calm, resolute, defiant, independent air about them, which
+wins unconsciously one's respect.  The stories that some of these
+men could tell, I have often thought, would fill many a book of
+thrilling adventures.
+
+For the half-castes I have great contempt.  They are neither
+black nor white, neither good nor bad, neither to be admired nor
+hated.  They are all things, at all times; they are always
+fawning on the great Arabs, and always cruel to those unfortunates
+brought under their yoke.  If I saw a miserable, half-starved
+negro, I was always sure to be told he belonged to a half-caste.
+Cringing and hypocritical, cowardly and debased, treacherous and
+mean, I have always found him.  He seems to be for ever ready to
+fall down and worship a rich Arab, but is relentless to a poor
+black slave.  When he swears most, you may be sure he lies most,
+and yet this is the breed which is multiplied most at Zanzibar.
+
+The Banyan is a born trader, the beau-ideal of a sharp money-making
+man.  Money flows to his pockets as naturally as water down a
+steep.  No pang of conscience will prevent him from cheating his
+fellow man.  He excels a Jew, and his only rival in a market is a
+Parsee; an Arab is a babe to him.  It is worth money to see him
+labor with all his energy, soul and body, to get advantage by the
+smallest fraction of a coin over a native.  Possibly the native
+has a tusk, and it may weigh a couple of frasilahs, but, though
+the scales indicate the weight, and the native declares solemnly
+that it must be more than two frasilahs, yet our Banyan will
+asseverate and vow that the native knows nothing whatever about it,
+and that the scales are wrong; he musters up courage to lift it--it
+is a mere song, not much more than a frasilah.  "Come," he will say,
+"close, man, take the money and go thy way.  Art thou mad?" If the
+native hesitates, he will scream in a fury; he pushes him about,
+spurns the ivory with contemptuous indifference,--never was such
+ado about nothing; but though he tells the astounded native to be
+up and going, he never intends the ivory shall leave his shop.
+
+The Banyans exercise, of all other classes, most influence on the
+trade of Central Africa.  With the exception of a very few rich
+Arabs, almost all other traders are subject to the pains and
+penalties which usury imposes.  A trader desirous to make a
+journey into the interior, whether for slaves or ivory, gum-copal,
+or orchilla weed, proposes to a Banyan to advance him $5,000, at
+50, 60, or 70 per cent. interest.  The Banyan is safe enough not
+to lose, whether the speculation the trader is engaged upon pays
+or not.  An experienced trader seldom loses, or if he has been
+unfortunate, through no deed of his own, he does not lose credit;
+with the help of the Banyan, he is easily set on his feet again.
+
+We will suppose, for the sake of illustrating how trade with the
+interior is managed, that the Arab conveys by his caravan $5,000's
+worth of goods into the interior.  At Unyanyembe the goods are
+worth $10,000; at Ujiji, they are worth $15,000: they have
+trebled in price.  Five doti, or $7.50, will purchase a slave in
+the markets of Ujiji that will fetch in Zanzibar $30.  Ordinary
+menslaves may be purchased for $6 which would sell for $25 on the
+coast.  We will say he purchases slaves to the full extent of his
+means--after deducting $1,500 expenses of carriage to Ujiji and
+back--viz. $3,500, the slaves--464 in number, at $7-50 per head--
+would realize $13,920 at Zanzibar!  Again, let us illustrate
+trade in ivory.  A merchant takes $5,000 to Ujiji, and after
+deducting $1,500 for expenses to Ujiji, and back to Zanzibar, has
+still remaining $3,500 in cloth and beads, with which he purchases
+ivory.  At Ujiji ivory is bought at $20 the frasilah, or 35 lbs.,
+by which he is enabled with $3,500 to collect 175 frasilahs, which,
+if good ivory, is worth about $60 per frasilah at Zanzibar.
+The merchant thus finds that he has realized $10,500 net profit!
+Arab traders have often done better than this, but they almost
+always have come back with an enormous margin of profit.
+
+The next people to the Banyans_in power in Zanzibar are the
+Mohammedan Hindis.  Really it has been a debateable subject in my
+mind whether the Hindis are not as wickedly determined to cheat in
+trade as the Banyans.  But, if I have conceded the palm to the
+latter, it has been done very reluctantly.  This tribe of Indians
+can produce scores of unconscionable rascals where they can show
+but one honest merchant.  One of the honestest among men, white or
+black, red or yellow, is a Mohammedan Hindi called Tarya Topan.
+Among the Europeans at Zanzibar, he has become a proverb for
+honesty, and strict business integrity.  He is enormously wealthy,
+owns several ships and dhows, and is a prominent man in the
+councils of Seyd Burghash.  Tarya has many children, two or three
+of whom are grown-up sons, whom he has reared up even as he is
+himself.  But Tarya is but a representative of an exceedingly
+small minority.
+
+The Arabs, the Banyans, and the Mohammedan Hindis, represent the
+higher and the middle classes.  These classes own the estates,
+the ships, and the trade.  To these classes bow the half-caste
+and the negro.
+
+The next most important people who go to make up the mixed
+population of this island are the negroes.  They consist of the
+aborigines, Wasawahili, Somalis, Comorines, Wanyamwezi, and a host
+of tribal representatives of Inner Africa.
+
+To a white stranger about penetrating Africa, it is a most
+interesting walk through the negro quarters of the Wanyamwezi and
+the Wasawahili.  For here he begins to learn the necessity of
+admitting that negroes are men, like himself, though of a different
+colour; that they have passions and prejudices, likes and
+dislikes, sympathies and antipathies, tastes and feelings, in
+common with all human nature.  The sooner he perceives this fact,
+and adapts himself accordingly, the easier will be his journey
+among the several races of the interior.  The more plastic his
+nature, the more prosperous will be his travels.
+
+Though I had lived some time among the negroes of our Southern
+States, my education was Northern, and I had met in the United
+States black men whom I was proud to call friends.  I was thus
+prepared to admit any black man, possessing the attributes of true
+manhood or any good qualities, to my friendship, even to a
+brotherhood with myself; and to respect him for such, as much as
+if he were of my own colour and race.  Neither his colour, nor any
+peculiarities of physiognomy should debar him with me from any
+rights he could fairly claim as a man.  "Have these men--these
+black savages from pagan Africa," I asked myself, "the qualities
+which make man loveable among his fellows?  Can these men--these
+barbarians--appreciate kindness or feel resentment like myself?"
+was my mental question as I travelled through their quarters
+and observed their actions.  Need I say, that I was much comforted
+in observing that they were as ready to be influenced by passions,
+by loves and hates, as I was myself; that the keenest observation
+failed to detect any great difference between their nature and my
+own?
+
+The negroes of the island probably number two-thirds of the entire
+population.  They compose the working-class, whether enslaved or
+free.  Those enslaved perform the work required on the plantations,
+the estates, and gardens of the landed proprietors, or perform the
+work of carriers, whether in the country or in the city.  Outside
+the city they may be seen carrying huge loads on their heads, as
+happy as possible, not because they are kindly treated or that
+their work is light, but because it is their nature to be gay and
+light-hearted, because they, have conceived neither joys nor hopes
+which may not be gratified at will, nor cherished any ambition
+beyond their reach, and therefore have not been baffled in their
+hopes nor known disappointment.
+
+Within the city, negro carriers may be heard at all hours, in
+couples, engaged in the transportation of clove-bags, boxes of
+merchandise, &c., from store to "godown" and from "go-down" to
+the beach, singing a kind of monotone chant for the encouragement
+of each other, and for the guiding of their pace as they shuffle
+through the streets with bare feet.  You may recognise these men
+readily, before long, as old acquaintances, by the consistency
+with which they sing the tunes they have adopted.  Several times
+during a day have I heard the same couple pass beneath the windows
+of the Consulate, delivering themselves of the same invariable tune
+and words.  Some might possibly deem the songs foolish and silly,
+but they had a certain attraction for me, and I considered that
+they were as useful as anything else for the purposes they were
+intended.
+
+The town of Zanzibar, situate on the south-western shore of the
+island, contains a population of nearly one hundred thousand
+inhabitants; that of the island altogether I would estimate at not
+more than two hundred thousand inhabitants, including all races.
+
+The greatest number of foreign vessels trading with this port are
+American, principally from New York and Salem.  After the American
+come the German, then come the French and English.  They arrive
+loaded with American sheeting, brandy, gunpowder, muskets, beads,
+English cottons, brass-wire, china-ware, and other notions, and
+depart with ivory, gum-copal, cloves, hides, cowries, sesamum,
+pepper, and cocoa-nut oil.
+
+The value of the exports from this port is estimated at $3,000,000,
+and the imports from all countries at $3,500,000.
+
+The Europeans and Americans residing in the town of Zanzibar are
+either Government officials, independent merchants, or agents for a
+few great mercantile houses in Europe and America.
+
+The climate of Zanzibar is not the most agreeable in the world.  I
+have heard Americans and Europeans condemn it most heartily.  I
+have also seen nearly one-half of the white colony laid up in one
+day from sickness.  A noxious malaria is exhaled from the shallow
+inlet of Malagash, and the undrained filth, the garbage, offal,
+dead mollusks, dead pariah dogs, dead cats, all species of carrion,
+remains of men and beasts unburied, assist to make Zanzibar a most
+unhealthy city; and considering that it it ought to be most healthy,
+nature having pointed out to man the means, and having assisted him
+so far, it is most wonderful that the ruling prince does not obey
+the dictates of reason.
+
+The bay of Zanzibar is in the form of a crescent, and on the
+south-western horn of it is built the city.  On the east Zanzibar
+is bounded almost entirely by the Malagash Lagoon, an inlet of
+the sea.  It penetrates to at least two hundred and fifty yards of
+the sea behind or south of Shangani Point.  Were these two hundred
+and fifty yards cut through by a ten foot ditch, and the inlet
+deepened slightly, Zanzibar would become an island of itself, and
+what wonders would it not effect as to health and salubrity!  I
+have never heard this suggestion made, but it struck me that the
+foreign consuls resident at Zanzibar might suggest this work to the
+Sultan, and so get the credit of having made it as healthy a place
+to live in as any near the equator.  But apropos of this, I
+remember what Capt. Webb, the American Consul, told me on my
+first arrival, when I expressed to him my wonder at the apathy
+and inertness of men born with the indomitable energy which
+characterises Europeans and Americans, of men imbued with the
+progressive and stirring instincts of the white people, who yet
+allow themselves to dwindle into pallid phantoms of their kind,
+into hypochondriacal invalids, into hopeless believers in the
+deadliness of the climate, with hardly a trace of that daring
+and invincible spirit which rules the world.
+
+"Oh," said Capt. Webb, "it is all very well for you to talk
+about energy and all that kind of thing, but I assure you that a
+residence of four or five years on this island, among such people
+as are here, would make you feel that it was a hopeless task to
+resist the influence of the example by which the most energetic
+spirits are subdued, and to which they must submit in time, sooner
+or later.  We were all terribly energetic when we first came here,
+and struggled bravely to make things go on as we were accustomed
+to have them at home, but we have found that we were knocking our
+heads against granite walls to no purpose whatever.  These fellows--
+the Arabs, the Banyans, and the Hindis--you can't make them go
+faster by ever so much scolding and praying, and in a very short
+time you see the folly of fighting against the unconquerable.
+Be patient, and don't fret, that is my advice, or you won't live
+long here."
+
+There were three or four intensely busy men, though, at Zanzibar,
+who were out at all hours of the day.  I know one, an American; I
+fancy I hear the quick pit-pat of his feet on the pavement beneath
+the Consulate, his cheery voice ringing the salutation, "Yambo!"
+to every one he met; and he had lived at Zanzibar twelve years.
+
+I know another, one of the sturdiest of Scotchmen, a most
+pleasant-mannered and unaffected man, sincere in whatever he did
+or said, who has lived at Zanzibar several years, subject to the
+infructuosities of the business he has been engaged in, as well as
+to the calor and ennui of the climate, who yet presents as formidable
+a front as ever to the apathetic native of Zanzibar.  No man can
+charge Capt. H. C.  Fraser, formerly of the Indian Navy, with being
+apathetic.
+
+I might with ease give evidence of the industry of others, but
+they are all my friends, and they are all good.  The American,
+English, German, and French residents have ever treated me with a
+courtesy and kindness I am not disposed to forget.  Taken as a
+body, it would be hard to find a more generous or hospitable colony
+of white men in any part of the world.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III.  ORGANIZATION OF THE EXPEDITION.
+
+
+I was totally ignorant of the interior, and it was difficult at
+first to know, what I needed, in order to take an Expedition into
+Central Africa.  Time was precious, also, and much of it could not
+be devoted to inquiry and investigation.  In a case like this, it
+would have been a godsend, I thought, had either of the three
+gentlemen, Captains Burton, Speke, or Grant, given some information
+on these points; had they devoted a chapter upon, "How to get
+ready an Expedition for Central Africa."  The purpose of this
+chapter, then, is to relate how I set about it, that other
+travellers coming after me may have the benefit of my experience.
+
+These are some of the questions I asked myself, as I tossed on my
+bed at night:--
+
+"How much money is required?"
+
+"How many pagazis, or carriers?
+
+"How many soldiers?"
+
+"How much cloth?"
+
+"How many beads?"
+
+"How much wire?"
+
+"What kinds of cloth are required for the different tribes?"
+
+Ever so many questions to myself brought me no clearer the exact
+point I wished to arrive at.  I scribbled over scores of sheets
+of paper, made estimates, drew out lists of material, calculated
+the cost of keeping one hundred men for one year, at so many yards
+of different kinds of cloth, etc.  I studied Burton, Speke, and
+Grant in vain.  A good deal of geographical, ethnological, and other
+information appertaining to the study of Inner Africa was obtainable,
+but information respecting the organization of an expedition
+requisite before proceeding to Africa, was not in any book.
+The Europeans at Zanzibar knew as little as possible about this
+particular point.  There was not one white man at Zanzibar who
+could tell how many dotis a day a force of one hundred men
+required to buy food for one day on the road.  Neither, indeed,
+was it their business to know.  But what should I do at all, at
+all?  This was a grand question.
+
+I decided it were best to hunt up an Arab merchant who had been
+engaged in the ivory trade, or who was fresh from the interior.
+
+Sheikh Hashid was a man of note and of wealth in Zanzibar.  He had
+himself despatched several caravans into the interior, and was
+necessarily acquainted with several prominent traders who came to
+his house to gossip about their adventures and gains.  He was also
+the proprietor of the large house Capt. Webb occupied; besides,
+he lived across the narrow street which separated his house from
+the Consulate.  Of all men Sheikh Hashid was the man to be
+consulted, and he was accordingly invited to visit me at the
+Consulate.
+
+From the grey-bearded and venerable-looking Sheikh, I elicited
+more information about African currency, the mode of procedure,
+the quantity and quality of stuffs I required, than I had obtained
+from three months' study of books upon Central Africa; and from
+other Arab merchants to whom the ancient Sheikh introduced me,
+I received most valuable suggestions and hints, which enabled me
+at last to organize an Expedition.
+
+The reader must bear in mind that a traveller requires only that
+which is sufficient for travel and exploration that a superfluity
+of goods or means will prove as fatal to him as poverty of
+supplies.  It is on this question of quality and quantity that
+the traveller has first to exercise his judgment and discretion.
+
+My informants gave me to understand that for one hundred men,
+10 doti, or 40 yards of cloth per diem, would suffice for food.
+The proper course to pursue, I found, was to purchase 2,000 doti
+of American sheeting, 1,000 doti of Kaniki, and 650 doti of the
+coloured cloths, such as Barsati, a great favourite in Unyamwezi;
+Sohari, taken in Ugogo; Ismahili, Taujiri, Joho, Shash, Rehani,
+Jamdani or Kunguru-Cutch, blue and pink.  These were deemed amply
+sufficient for the subsistence of one hundred men for twelve
+months.  Two years at this rate would require 4,000 doti = 16,000
+yards of American sheeting; 2,000 doti = 8,000 yards of Kaniki;
+1,300 doti = 5,200 yards of mixed coloured cloths.  This was
+definite and valuable information to me, and excepting the lack
+of some suggestions as to the quality of the sheeting, Kaniki,
+and coloured cloths, I had obtained all I desired upon this point.
+
+Second in importance to the amount of cloth required was the
+quantity and quality of the beads necessary.  Beads, I was told,
+took the place of cloth currency among some tribes of the
+interior.  One tribe preferred white to black beads, brown to
+yellow, red to green, green to white, and so on.  Thus, in
+Unyamwezi, red (sami-sami) beads would readily be taken, where
+all other kinds would be refused; black (bubu) beads, though
+currency in Ugogo, were positively worthless with all other
+tribes; the egg (sungomazzi) beads, though valuable in Ujiji
+and Uguhha, would be refused in all other countries; the white
+(Merikani) beads though good in Ufipa, and some parts of Usagara
+and Ugogo, would certainly be despised in Useguhha and Ukonongo.
+Such being the case, I was obliged to study closely, and calculate
+the probable stay of an expedition in the several countries, so as
+to be sure to provide a sufficiency of each kind, and guard against
+any great overplus.  Burton and Speke, for instance, were obliged
+to throw away as worthless several hundred fundo of beads.
+
+For example, supposing the several nations of Europe had each its
+own currency, without the means of exchange, and supposing a man
+was about to travel through Europe on foot, before starting he
+would be apt to calculate how many days it would take him to
+travel through France; how many through Prussia, Austria, and
+Russia, then to reckon the expense he would be likely to incur
+per day.  If the expense be set down at a napoleon per day, and
+his journey through France would occupy thirty days, the sum
+required forgoing and returning might be properly set down at
+sixty napoleons, in which case, napoleons not being current money
+in Prussia, Austria, or Russia, it would be utterly useless for
+him to burden himself with the weight of a couple of thousand
+napoleons in gold.
+
+My anxiety on this point was most excruciating.  Over and over
+I studied the hard names and measures, conned again and again
+the polysyllables; hoping to be able to arrive some time at an
+intelligible definition of the terms.  I revolved in my mind
+the words Mukunguru, Ghulabio, Sungomazzi,
+Kadunduguru, Mutunda, Samisami, Bubu, Merikani, Hafde, Lunghio-Rega,
+and Lakhio, until I was fairly beside myself.  Finally, however,
+I came to the conclusion that if I reckoned my requirements at
+fifty khete, or five fundo per day, for two years, and if I
+purchased only eleven varieties, I might consider myself safe
+enough.  The purchase was accordingly made, and twenty-two
+sacks of the best species were packed and brought to Capt. Webb's
+house, ready for transportation to Bagamoyo.
+
+After the beads came the wire question.  I discovered, after
+considerable trouble, that Nos. 5 and 6--almost of the thickness
+of telegraph wire--were considered the best numbers for trading
+purposes.  While beads stand for copper coins in Africa, cloth
+measures for silver; wire is reckoned as gold in the countries
+beyond the Tan-ga-ni-ka.*  Ten frasilah, or 350 lbs., of brass-wire,
+my Arab adviser thought, would be ample.
+_________________
+* It will be seen that I differ from Capt. Burton in the spelling
+of this word, as I deem the letter " y  " superfluous.
+________________
+
+Having purchased the cloth, the beads, and the wire, it was with
+no little pride that I surveyed the comely bales and packages lying
+piled up, row above row, in Capt. Webb's capacious store-room.
+Yet my work was not ended, it was but beginning; there were
+provisions, cooking-utensils, boats, rope, twine, tents, donkeys,
+saddles, bagging, canvas, tar, needles, tools, ammunition, guns,
+equipments, hatchets, medicines, bedding, presents for chiefs--in
+short, a thousand things not yet purchased.  The ordeal of
+chaffering and -haggling with steel-hearted Banyans, Hindis, Arabs,
+and half-castes was most trying.  For instance, I purchased
+twenty-two donkeys at Zanzibar.  $40 and $50 were asked, which
+I had to reduce to $15 or $20 by an infinite amount of argument
+worthy, I think, of a nobler cause.  As was my experience with the
+ass-dealers so was it with the petty merchants; even a paper of pins
+was not purchased without a five per cent. reduction from the price
+demanded, involving, of course, a loss of much time and patience.
+
+After collecting the donkeys, I discovered there were no
+pack-saddles to be obtained in Zanzibar.  Donkeys without
+pack-saddles were of no use whatever.  I invented a saddle to
+be manufactured by myself and my white man Farquhar, wholly
+from canvas, rope, and cotton.
+
+Three or four frasilahs of cotton, and ten bolts of canvas were
+required for the saddles.  A specimen saddle was made by myself in
+order to test its efficiency.  A donkey was taken and saddled, and
+a load of 140 lbs. was fastened to it, and though the animal--a
+wild creature of Unyamwezi--struggled and reared frantic ally, not
+a particle gave way.  After this experiment, Farquhar was set to work
+to manufacture twenty-one more after the same pattern.  Woollen
+pads were also purchased to protect the animals from being galled.
+It ought to be mentioned here, perhaps, that the idea of such a
+saddle as I manufactured, was first derived from the Otago saddle,
+in use among the transport-trains of the English army in
+Abyssinia.
+
+A man named John William Shaw--a native of London, England, lately
+third-mate of the American ship `Nevada'--applied to me for work.
+Though his discharge from the `Nevada' was rather suspicious, yet
+he possessed all the requirements of such a man as I needed, and
+was an experienced hand with the palm and needle, could cut canvas
+to fit anything, was a pretty good navigator, ready and willing,
+so far as his professions went..  I saw no reason to refuse his
+services, and he was accordingly engaged at $300 per annum, to rank
+second to William L. Farquhar.  Farquhar was a capital navigator
+and excellent mathematician; was strong, energetic, and clever.
+
+The next thing I was engaged upon was to enlist, arm, and equip,
+a faithful escort of twenty men for the road.  Johari, the chief
+dragoman of the American Consulate, informed me that he knew where
+certain of Speke's "Faithfuls" were yet to be found.  The idea had
+struck me before, that if I could obtain the services of a few men
+acquainted with the ways of white men, and who could induce other
+good men to join the expedition I was organizing, I might consider
+myself fortunate.  More especially had I thought of Seedy Mbarak
+Mombay, commonly called "Bombay," who though his head was
+"woodeny," and his hands" clumsy," was considered to be the
+"faithfulest" of the "Faithfuls."
+
+With the aid of the dragoman Johari, I secured in a few hours the
+services of Uledi (Capt. Grant's former valet), Ulimengo, Baruti,
+Ambari, Mabruki (Muinyi Mabruki--Bull-headed Mabruki, Capt.
+Burton's former unhappy valet)--five of Speke's "Faithfuls."  When I
+asked them if they were willing to join another white man's
+expedition to Ujiji, they replied very readily that they were
+willing to join any brother of "Speke's."  Dr. John Kirk, Her
+Majesty's Consul at Zanzibar, who was present, told them that
+though I was no brother of "Speke's," I spoke his language.  This
+distinction mattered little to them: and I heard them, with great
+delight, declare their readiness to go anywhere with me, or do
+anything I wished.
+
+Mombay, as they called him, or Bombay, as we know him, had gone to
+Pemba, an island lying north of Zanzibar.  Uledi was sure Mombay
+would jump with joy at the prospect of another expedition.  Johari
+was therefore commissioned to write to him at Pemba, to inform him
+of the good fortune in store for him.
+
+On the fourth morning after the letter had been despatched, the
+famous Bombay made his appearance, followed in decent order and
+due rank by the "Faithfuls" of "Speke."  I looked in vain for the
+"woodeny head" and "alligator teeth" with which his former
+master had endowed him.  I saw a slender short man of fifty or
+thereabouts, with a grizzled head, an uncommonly high, narrow
+forehead, with a very large mouth, showing teeth very irregular,
+and wide apart.  An ugly rent in the upper front row of Bombay's
+teeth was made with the clenched fist of Capt. Speke in Uganda
+when his master's patience was worn out, and prompt punishment
+became necessary.  That Capt. Speke had spoiled him with kindness
+was evident, from the fact that Bombay had the audacity to stand
+up for a boxing-match with him.  But these things I only found
+out, when, months afterwards, I was called upon to administer
+punishment to him myself.  But, at his first appearance, I was
+favourably impressed with Bombay, though his face was rugged, his
+mouth large, his eyes small, and his nose flat.
+
+"Salaam aliekum," were the words he greeted me with.  "Aliekum
+salaam," I replied, with all the gravity I could muster.  I then
+informed him I required him as captain of my soldiers to Ujiji.
+His reply was that he was ready to do whatever I told him, go
+wherever I liked in short, be a pattern to servants, and a model
+to soldiers.  He hoped I would give him a uniform, and a good gun,
+both of which were promised.
+
+Upon inquiring for the rest of the "Faithfuls" who accompanied
+Speke into Egypt, I was told that at Zanzibar there were but six.
+Ferrajji, Maktub, Sadik, Sunguru, Manyu, Matajari, Mkata, and
+Almas, were dead; Uledi and Mtamani were in Unyanyembe; Hassan
+had gone to Kilwa, and Ferahan was supposed to be in Ujiji.
+
+Out of the six "Faithfuls," each of whom still retained his medal
+for assisting in the "Discovery of the Sources of the Nile," one,
+poor Mabruki, had met with a sad misfortune, which I feared would
+incapacitate him from active usefulness.
+
+Mabruki the "Bull-headed," owned a shamba (or a house with a garden
+attached to it), of which he was very proud.  Close to him lived a
+neighbour in similar circumstances, who was a soldier of Seyd
+Majid, with whom Mabruki, who was of a quarrelsome disposition, had
+a feud, which culminated in the soldier inducing two or three of
+his comrades to assist him in punishing the malevolent Mabruki, and
+this was done in a manner that only the heart of an African could
+conceive.  They tied the unfortunate fellow by his wrists to a
+branch of a tree, and after indulging their brutal appetite for
+revenge in torturing him, left him to hang in that position for
+two days.   At the expiration of the second day, he was accidentally
+discovered in a most pitiable condition.  His hands had swollen to
+an immense size, and the veins of one hand having been ruptured,
+he had lost its use.  It is needless to say that, when the affair
+came to Seyd Majid's ears, the miscreants were severely punished.
+Dr. Kirk, who attended the poor fellow, succeeded in restoring one
+hand to something of a resemblance of its former shape, but the
+other hand is sadly marred, and its former usefulness gone for
+ever.
+
+However, I engaged Mabruki, despite his deformed hands, his
+ugliness and vanity, because he was one of Speke's "Faithfuls."  For
+if he but wagged his tongue in my service, kept his eyes open, and
+opened his mouth at the proper time, I assured myself I could make
+him useful.
+
+Bombay, my captain of escort, succeeded in getting eighteen more
+free men to volunteer as "askari" (soldiers), men whom he knew
+would not desert, and for whom he declared himself responsible.
+They were an exceedingly fine-looking body of men, far more
+intelligent in appearance than I could ever have believed African
+barbarians could be.  They hailed principally from Uhiyow, others
+from Unyamwezi, some came from Useguhha and Ugindo.
+
+Their wages were set down at $36 each man per annum, or $3 each per
+month.  Each soldier was provided with a flintlock musket, powder
+horn, bullet-pouch, knife, and hatchet, besides enough powder and
+ball for 200 rounds.
+
+Bombay, in consideration of his rank, and previous faithful
+services to Burton, Speke and Grant, was engaged at $80 a year,
+half that sum in advance, a good muzzle-loading rifle, besides, a
+pistol, knife, and hatchet were given to him, while the other five
+"Faithfuls," Ambari, Mabruki, Ulimengo, Baruti, and Uledi, were
+engaged at $40 a year, with proper equipments as soldiers.
+
+Having studied fairly well all the East African travellers' books
+regarding Eastern and Central Africa, my mind had conceived the
+difficulties which would present themselves during the prosecution
+of my search after Dr. Livingstone.
+
+To obviate all of these, as well as human wit could suggest, was
+my constant thought and aim.
+
+"Shall I permit myself, while looking from Ujiji over the waters of
+the Tanganika Lake to the other side, to be balked on the threshold
+of success by the insolence of a King Kannena or the caprice of a
+Hamed bin Sulayyam?" was a question I asked myself.  To guard
+against such a contingency I determined to carry my own boats.
+"Then," I thought, "if I hear of Livingstone being on the
+Tanganika, I can launch my boat and proceed after him."
+
+I procured one large boat, capable of carrying twenty persons,
+with stores and goods sufficient for a cruise, from the American
+Consul, for the sum of $80, and a smaller one from another American
+gentleman for $40.  The latter would hold comfortably six men,
+with suitable stores.
+
+I did not intend to carry the boats whole or bodily, but to strip
+them of their boards, and carry the timbers and thwarts only.  As
+a substitute for the boards, I proposed to cover each boat with a
+double canvas skin well tarred.  The work of stripping them and
+taking them to pieces fell to me.  This little job occupied me
+five days.
+
+I also packed them up, for the pagazis.  Each load was carefully
+weighed, and none exceeded 68 lbs. in weight.  John Shaw excelled
+himself in the workmanship displayed on the canvas boats; when
+finished, they fitted their frames admirably.  The canvas--six
+bolts of English hemp, No. 3--was procured from Ludha Damji,
+who furnished it from the Sultan's storeroom.
+
+An insuperable obstacle to rapid transit in Africa is the want of
+carriers, and as speed was the main object of the Expedition under
+my command, my duty was to lessen this difficulty as much as
+possible.  My carriers could only be engaged after arriving at
+Bagamoyo, on the mainland.  I had over twenty good donkeys ready,
+and I thought a cart adapted for the footpaths of Africa might
+prove an advantage.  Accordingly I had a cart constructed,
+eighteen inches wide and five feet long, supplied with two
+fore-wheels of a light American wagon, more for the purpose of
+conveying the narrow ammunition-boxes.  I estimated that if a
+donkey could carry to Unyanyembe a load of four frasilahs,
+or 140 lbs., he ought to be able to draw eight frasilahs on such
+a cart, which would be equal to the carrying capacity of four
+stout pagazis or carriers.  Events will prove, how my theories
+were borne out by practice.
+
+When my purchases were completed, and I beheld them piled up, tier
+after tier, row upon row, here a mass of cooking-utensils, there
+bundles of rope, tents, saddles, a pile of portmanteaus and boxes,
+containing every imaginable thing, I confess I was rather abashed
+at my own temerity.  Here were at least six tons of material!
+"How will it ever be possible," I thought, "to move all this inert
+mass across the wilderness stretching between the sea, and the
+great lakes of Africa?  Bah, cast all doubts away, man, and have
+at them!  `Sufficient for the day is the evil thereof,' without
+borrowing from the morrow."
+
+The traveller must needs make his way into the African interior
+after a fashion very different from that  to which he has been
+accustomed in other countries.  He requires to take with him just
+what a ship must have when about to sail on a long voyage.  He
+must have his slop chest, his little store of canned dainties,
+and his medicines, besides which, he must have enough guns, powder,
+and ball to be able to make a series of good fights if necessary.
+He must have men to convey these miscellaneous articles; and as a
+man's maximum load does not exceed 70 lbs., to convey 11,000 lbs.
+requires nearly  160 men.
+
+Europe and the Orient, even Arabia and Turkestan, have royal ways
+of travelling compared to Africa.  Specie is received in all those
+countries, by which a traveller may carry his means about with
+him on his own person.  Eastern and Central Africa, however, demand
+a necklace, instead of a cent; two yards of American sheeting,
+instead of half a dollar, or a florin, and a kitindi of thick
+brass-wire, in place of a gold piece.
+
+The African traveller can hire neither wagons nor camels, neither
+horses nor mules, to proceed with him into the interior.  His means
+of conveyance are limited to black and naked men, who demand at
+least $15 a head for every 70 lbs. weight carried only as far as
+Unyanyembe.
+
+One thing amongst others my predecessors omitted to inform men
+bound for Africa, which is of importance, and that is, that no
+traveller should ever think of coming to Zanzibar with his money
+in any other shape than gold coin.  Letters of credit, circular
+notes, and such civilized things I have found to be a century
+ahead of Zanzibar people.
+
+Twenty and twenty-five cents deducted out of every dollar I drew
+on paper is one of the unpleasant, if not unpleasantest things I
+have committed to lasting memory.  For Zanzibar is a spot far
+removed from all avenues of European commerce, and coin is at a
+high premium.  A man may talk and entreat, but though he may have
+drafts, cheques, circular notes, letters of credit, a carte blanche
+to get what he wants, out of every dollar must, be deducted twenty,
+twenty-five and thirty cents, so I was told, and so was my
+experience.  What a pity there is no branch-bank here!
+
+I had intended to have gone into Africa incognito.  But the fact
+that a white man, even an American, was about to enter Africa was
+soon known all over Zanzibar.  This fact was repeated a thousand
+times in the streets, proclaimed in all shop alcoves, and at the
+custom-house.  The native bazaar laid hold of it, and agitated it
+day and night until my departure.  The foreigners, including the
+Europeans, wished to know the pros and cons of my coming in and
+going out.
+
+My answer to all questions, pertinent and impertinent, was, I am
+going to Africa.  Though my card bore the words
+
+     ________________________________________
+    |                                        |
+    |            HENRY M.  STANLEY.          |
+    |                                        |
+    |                                        |
+    |  New York Herald.                      |
+    |________________________________________|
+
+very few, I believe, ever coupled the words `New York Herald'
+with a search after "Doctor Livingstone."  It was not my fault,
+was it?
+
+Ah, me! what hard work it is to start an expedition alone!  What
+with hurrying through the baking heat of the fierce relentless sun
+from shop to shop, strengthening myself with far-reaching and
+enduring patience far the haggling contest with the livid-faced
+Hindi, summoning courage and wit to brow-beat the villainous Goanese,
+and match the foxy Banyan, talking volumes throughout the day,
+correcting estimates, making up accounts, superintending the
+delivery of purchased articles, measuring and weighing them, to see
+that everything was of full measure and weight, overseeing the white
+men Farquhar and Shaw, who were busy on donkey saddles, sails, tents,
+and boats for the Expedition, I felt, when the day was over, as
+though limbs and brain well deserved their rest. Such labours were
+mine unremittingly for a month.
+
+Having bartered drafts on Mr. James Gordon Bennett to the amount
+of several thousand dollars for cloth, beads, wire, donkeys, and
+a thousand necessaries, having advanced pay to the white men, and
+black escort of the Expedition, having fretted Capt. Webb and his
+family more than enough with the din of preparation, and filled
+his house with my goods, there was nothing further to do but to
+leave my formal adieus with the Europeans, and thank the Sultan
+and those gentlemen who had assisted me, before embarking for
+Bagamoyo.
+
+The day before my departure from Zanzibar the American Consul,
+having just habited himself in his black coat, and taking with him
+an extra black hat, in order to be in state apparel, proceeded with
+me to the Sultan's palace.  The prince had been generous to me;
+he had presented me with an Arab horse, had furnished me with
+letters of introduction to his agents, his chief men, and
+representatives in the interior, and in many other ways had
+shown himself well disposed towards me.
+
+The palace is a large, roomy, lofty, square house close to the
+fort, built of coral, and plastered thickly with lime mortar.
+In appearance it is half Arabic and half Italian.  The shutters
+are Venetian blinds painted a vivid green, and presenting a
+striking contrast to the whitewashed walls.  Before the great,
+lofty, wide door were ranged in two crescents several Baluch and
+Persian mercenaries, armed with curved swords and targes of
+rhinoceros hide.  Their dress consisted of a muddy-white cotton
+shirt, reaching to the ancles, girdled with a leather belt thickly
+studded with silver bosses.
+
+As we came in sight a signal was passed to some person inside the
+entrance.  When within twenty yards of the door, the Sultan, who
+was standing waiting, came down the steps, and, passing through the
+ranks, advanced toward us, with his right hand stretched out, and a
+genial smile of welcome on his face.  On our side we raised our
+hats, and shook hands with him, after which, doing according as he
+bade us, we passed forward, and arrived on the highest step near
+the entrance door.  He pointed forward; we bowed and arrived at
+the foot of an unpainted and narrow staircase to turn once more to
+the Sultan.  The Consul, I perceived, was ascending sideways, a
+mode of progression which I saw was intended for a compromise with
+decency and dignity.  At the top of the stairs we waited, with
+our faces towards the up-coming Prince.  Again we were waved
+magnanimously forward, for before us was the reception-hall and
+throne-room.  I noticed, as I marched forward to the furthest end,
+that the room was high, and painted in the Arabic style, that the
+carpet was thick and of Persian fabric, that the furniture consisted
+of a dozen gilt chairs and a chandelier,
+
+We were seated; Ludha Damji, the Banyan collector of customs, a
+venerable-looking old man, with a shrewd intelligent face, sat on
+the right of the Sultan; next to him was the great Mohammedan
+merchant Tarya Topan who had come to be present at the interview,
+not only because he was one of the councillors of His Highness,
+but because he also took a lively interest in this American
+Expedition.  Opposite to Ludha sat Capt. Webb, and next to him
+I was seated, opposite Tarya Topan.  The Sultan sat in a gilt chair
+between the Americans and the councillors.  Johari the dragoman
+stood humbly before the Sultan, expectant and ready to interpret
+what we had to communicate to the Prince.
+
+The Sultan, so far as dress goes, might be taken for a Mingrelian
+gentleman, excepting, indeed, for the turban, whose ample folds in
+alternate colours of red, yellow, brown, and white, encircled his
+head.  His long robe was of dark cloth, cinctured round the waist
+with his rich sword-belt, from which was suspended a gold-hilted
+scimitar, encased in a scabbard also enriched with gold: His legs
+and feet were bare, and had a ponderous look about them, since he
+suffered from that strange curse of Zanzibar--elephantiasis.  His
+feet were slipped into a pair of watta (Arabic for slippers), with
+thick soles and a strong leathern band over the instep.  His light
+complexion and his correct features, which are intelligent and
+regular, bespeak the Arab patrician.  They indicate, however,
+nothing except his high descent and blood; no traits of character
+are visible unless there is just a trace of amiability, and perfect
+contentment with himself and all around.
+
+Such is Prince, or Seyd Burghash, Sultan of Zanzibar and Pemba, and
+the East coast of Africa, from Somali Land to the Mozambique, as he
+appeared to me.
+
+Coffee was served in cups supported by golden finjans, also some
+cocoa-nut milk, and rich sweet sherbet.
+
+The conversation began with the question addressed to the Consul.
+
+"Are you well?"
+
+Consul.--" Yes, thank you.  How is His Highness?"
+
+Highness.--"Quite well!"
+
+Highness to me.--"Are you well?"
+
+Answer.--"Quite well, thanks!"
+
+The Consul now introduces business; and questions about my travels
+follow from His Highness--
+
+"How do you like Persia?"
+
+"Have you seen Kerbela, Bagdad, Masr, Stamboul?"
+
+"Have the Turks many soldiers?"
+
+"How many has Persia?"
+
+"Is Persia fertile?"
+
+"How do you like Zanzibar?"
+
+Having answered each question to his Highness' satisfaction, he
+handed me letters of introduction to his officers at Bagamoyo and
+Kaole, and a general introductory letter to all Arab merchants
+whom I might meet on the road, and concluded his remarks to me,
+with the expressed hope, that on whatever mission I was bound,
+I should be perfectly successful.
+
+We bowed ourselves out of his presence in much the same manner that
+we had bowed ourselves in, he accompanying us to the great entrance
+door.
+
+Mr. Goodhue of Salem, an American merchant long resident in
+Zanzibar, presented me, as I gave him my adieu, with a blooded bay
+horse, imported from the Cape of Good Hope, and worth, at least at
+Zanzibar, $500.
+
+Feb. 4.--By the 4th of February, twenty-eight days from the date
+of my arrival at Zanzibar, the organization and equipment of the
+"`New York Herald' Expedition" was complete; tents and saddles had
+been manufactured, boats and sails were ready.  The donkeys brayed,
+and the horses neighed impatiently for the road.
+
+Etiquette demanded that I should once more present my card to the
+European and American Consuls at Zanzibar, and the word "farewell"
+was said to everybody.
+
+On the fifth day, four dhows were anchored before the American
+Consulate.  Into one were lifted the two horses, into two others
+the donkeys, into the fourth, the largest, the black escort, and
+bulky moneys of the Expedition.
+
+A little before noon we set sail.  The American flag, a present to
+the Expedition by that kind-hearted lady, Mrs. Webb, was raised
+to the mast-head; the Consul, his lady, and exuberant little
+children, Mary and Charley, were on the housetop waving the starry
+banner, hats, and handkerchiefs, a token of farewell to me and
+mine.  Happy people, and good! may their course and ours be
+prosperous, and may God's blessing rest on us all!
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV.  LIFE AT BAGAMOYO.
+
+
+The isle of Zanzibar with its groves of cocoa-nut, mango, clove,
+and cinnamon, and its sentinel islets of Chumbi and French, with
+its whitewashed city and jack-fruit odor, with its harbor and ships
+that tread the deep, faded slowly from view, and looking westward,
+the African continent rose, a similar bank of green verdure to
+that which had just receded till it was a mere sinuous line above
+the horizon, looming in a northerly direction to the sublimity of
+a mountain chain.  The distance across from Zanzibar to Bagamoyo
+may be about twenty-five miles, yet it took the dull and lazy
+dhows ten hours before they dropped anchor on the top of the
+coral reef plainly visible a few feet below the surface of the
+water, within a hundred yards of the beach.
+
+The newly-enlisted soldiers, fond of noise and excitement,
+discharged repeated salvos by way of a salute to the mixed
+crowd of Arabs, Banyans, and Wasawahili, who stood on the beach
+to receive the Musungu (white man), which they did with a general
+stare and a chorus of "Yambo, bana?" (how are you, master?)
+
+In our own land the meeting with a large crowd is rather a tedious
+operation, as our independent citizens insist on an interlacing of
+fingers, and a vigorous shaking thereof before their pride is
+satisfied, and the peaceful manifestation endorsed; but on this
+beach, well lined with spectators, a response of "Yambo, bana!"
+sufficed, except with one who of all there was acknowledged the
+greatest, and who, claiming, like all great men, individual
+attention, came forward to exchange another "Yambo!" on his own
+behalf, and to shake hands.  This personage with a long trailing
+turban, was Jemadar Esau, commander of the Zanzibar force of
+soldiers, police, or Baluch gendarmes stationed at Bagamoyo.
+He had accompanied Speke and Grant a good distance into the
+interior, and they had rewarded him liberally.  He took upon
+himself the responsibility of assisting in the debarkation of
+the Expedition, and unworthy as was his appearance, disgraceful
+as he was in his filth, I here commend him for his influence
+over the rabble to all future East African travellers.
+
+Foremost among those who welcomed us was a Father of the Society
+of St.-Esprit, who with other Jesuits, under Father Superior
+Horner, have established a missionary post of considerable
+influence and merit at Bagamoyo.  We were invited to partake of
+the hospitality of the Mission, to take our meals there, and,
+should we desire it, to pitch our camp on their grounds.  But
+however strong the geniality of the welcome and sincere the
+heartiness of the invitation, I am one of those who prefer
+independence to dependence if it is possible.  Besides, my
+sense of the obligation between host and guest had just had
+a fine edge put upon it by the delicate forbearance of my kind
+host at Zanzibar, who had betrayed no sign of impatience at the
+trouble I was only too conscious of having caused him.  I
+therefore informed the hospitable Padre, that only for one night
+could I suffer myself to be enticed from my camp.
+
+I selected a house near the western outskirts of the town, where
+there is a large open square through which the road from Unyanyembe
+enters.  Had I been at Bagamoyo a month, I could not have bettered
+my location.  My tents were pitched fronting the tembe (house) I
+had chosen, enclosing a small square, where business could be
+transacted, bales looked over, examined, and marked, free from the
+intrusion of curious sightseers.  After driving the twenty-seven
+animals of the Expedition into the enclosure in the rear of the
+house, storing the bales of goods, and placing a cordon of soldiers
+round, I proceeded to the Jesuit Mission, to a late dinner, being
+tired and ravenous, leaving the newly-formed camp in charge of the
+white men and Capt. Bombay.
+
+The Mission is distant from the town a good half mile, to the
+north of it; it is quite a village of itself, numbering some
+fifteen or sixteen houses.  There are more than ten padres engaged
+in the establishment, and as many sisters, and all find plenty of
+occupation in educing from native crania the fire of intelligence.
+Truth compels me to state that they are very successful, having
+over two hundred pupils, boys and girls, in the Mission, and,
+from the oldest to the youngest, they show the impress of the
+useful education they have received.
+
+The dinner furnished to the padres and their guest consisted of as
+many plats as a first-class hotel in Paris usually supplies, and
+cooked with nearly as much skill, though the surroundings were by
+no means equal.  I feel assured also that the padres, besides being
+tasteful in their potages and entrees, do not stultify their ideas
+for lack of that element which Horace, Hafiz, and Byron have
+praised so much.  The champagne--think of champagne Cliquot in East
+Africa!--Lafitte, La Rose, Burgundy, and Bordeaux were of
+first-rate quality, and the meek and lowly eyes of the fathers
+were not a little brightened under the vinous influence.  Ah! those
+fathers understand life, and appreciate its duration.  Their
+festive board drives the African jungle fever from their doors,
+while it soothes the gloom and isolation which strike one with awe,
+as one emerges from the lighted room and plunges into the depths
+of the darkness of an African night, enlivened only by the wearying
+monotone of the frogs and crickets, and the distant ululation of
+the hyena.  It requires somewhat above human effort, unaided by the
+ruby liquid that cheers, to be always suave and polite amid the
+dismalities of native life in Africa.
+
+After the evening meal, which replenished my failing strength, and
+for which I felt the intensest gratitude, the most advanced of the
+pupils came forward, to the number of twenty, with brass instruments,
+thus forming a full band of music.  It rather astonished me to hear
+instrumental sounds issue forth in harmony from such woolly-headed
+youngsters; to hear well-known French music at this isolated port,
+to hear negro boys, that a few months ago knew nothing beyond the
+traditions of their ignorant mothers, stand forth and chant
+Parisian songs about French valor and glory, with all the
+sangfroid of gamins from the purlieus of Saint-Antoine.
+
+I had a most refreshing night's rest, and at dawn I sought out
+my camp, with a will to enjoy the new life now commencing.  On
+counting the animals, two donkeys were missing; and on taking
+notes of my African moneys, one coil of No. 6 wire was not to be
+found.  Everybody had evidently fallen on the ground to sleep,
+oblivious of the fact that on the coast there are many dishonest
+prowlers at night.  Soldiers were despatched to search through
+the town and neighbourhood, and Jemadar Esau was apprised of
+our loss, and stimulated to discover the animals by the promise
+of a reward.  Before night one of the missing donkeys was found
+outside the town nibbling at manioc-leaves, but the other animal
+and the coil of wire were never found.
+
+Among my visitors this first day at Bagamoyo was Ali bin Salim,
+a brother of the famous Sayd bin Salim, formerly Ras Kafilah to
+Burton and Speke, and subsequently to Speke and Grant.  His
+salaams were very profuse, and moreover, his brother was to be my
+agent in Unyamwezi, so that I did not hesitate to accept his offer
+of assistance.  But, alas, for my white face and too trustful
+nature! this Ali bin Salim turned out to be a snake in the grass,
+a very sore thorn in my side.  I was invited to his comfortable
+house to partake of coffee.  I went there: the coffee was good
+though sugarless, his promises were many, but they proved valueless.
+Said he to me, "I am your friend; I wish to serve you., what can
+I do for you?"  Replied I, "I am obliged to you, I need a good
+friend who, knowing the language and Customs of the Wanyamwezi,
+can procure me the pagazis I need and send me off quickly.  Your
+brother is acquainted with the Wasungu (white men), and knows
+that what they promise they make good.  Get me a hundred and
+forty pagazis and I will pay you your price."   With unctuous
+courtesy, the reptile I was now warmly nourishing; said,
+"I do not want anything from you, my friend, for such a slight
+service, rest content and quiet; you shall not stop here fifteen
+days.  To-morrow morning I will come and overhaul your bales to
+see what is needed."  I bade him good morning, elated with the
+happy thought that I was soon to tread the Unyanyembe road.
+
+The reader must be made acquainted with two good and sufficient
+reasons why I was to devote all my energy to lead the Expedition
+as quickly as possible from Bagamoyo.
+
+First, I wished to reach Ujiji before the news reached Livingstone
+that I was in search of him, for my impression of him was that he
+was a man who would try to put as much distance as possible
+between us, rather than make an effort to shorten it, and I should
+have my long journey for nothing.
+
+Second, the Masika, or rainy season, would soon be on me, which, if
+it caught me at Bagamoyo, would prevent my departure until it was
+over, which meant a delay of forty days, and exaggerated as the
+rains were by all men with whom I came in contact, it rained every
+day for forty days without intermission.  This I knew was a thing
+to dread; for I had my memory stored with all kinds of rainy
+unpleasantnesses.  For instance, there was the rain of Virginia and
+its concomitant horrors--wetness, mildew, agues, rheumatics,
+and such like; then there were the English rains, a miserable drizzle
+causing the blue devils; then the rainy season of Abyssinia with the
+flood-gates of the firmament opened, and an universal down-pour of
+rain, enough to submerge half a continent in a few hours; lastly,
+there was the pelting monsoon of India, a steady shut-in-house
+kind of rain.  To which of these rains should I compare this
+dreadful Masika of East Africa?  Did not Burton write much about
+black mud in Uzaramo?  Well, a country whose surface soil is
+called black mud in fine weather, what can it be called when forty
+days' rain beat on it, and feet of pagazis and donkeys make paste
+of it?  These were natural reflections, induced by the circumstances
+of the hour, and I found myself much exercised in mind in consequence.
+
+Ali bin Salim, true to his promise, visited my camp on the morrow,
+with a very important air, and after looking at the pile of cloth
+bales, informed me that I must have them covered with mat-bags.  He
+said he would send a man to have them measured, but he enjoined me
+not to make any bargain for the bags, as he would make it all
+right.
+
+While awaiting with commendable patience the 140 pagazis
+promised by Ali bin Salim we were all employed upon everything
+that thought could suggest needful for crossing the sickly
+maritime region, so that we might make the transit before the
+terrible fever could unnerve us, and make us joyless.  A short
+experience at Bagamoya showed us what we lacked, what was
+superfluous, and what was necessary.  We were visited one night
+by a squall, accompanied by furious rain.  I had $1,500 worth
+of pagazi cloth in my tent. In the morning I looked and lo!
+the drilling had let in rain like a sieve, and every yard of cloth
+was wet. It occupied two days afterwards to dry the cloths, and
+fold them again.  The drill-tent was condemned, and a No. 5
+hemp-canvas tent at onto prepared.  After which I felt convinced
+that my cloth bales, and one year's ammunition, were safe, and
+that I could defy the Masika.
+
+In the hurry of departure from Zanzibar, and in my ignorance of
+how bales should be made, I had submitted to the better judgment
+and ripe experience of one Jetta, a commission merchant, to prepare
+my bales for carriage.  Jetta did not weigh the bales as he made
+them up, but piled the Merikani, Kaniki, Barsati, Jamdani, Joho,
+Ismahili, in alternate layers, and roped the same into bales.
+One or two pagazis came to my camp and began to chaffer; they
+wished to see the bales first, before they would make a final
+bargain.  They tried to raise them up--ugh! ugh! it was of no use,
+and withdrew.  A fine Salter's spring balance was hung up, and a
+bale suspended to the hook; the finger indicated 105 lbs. or
+3 frasilah, which was just 35 lbs. or one frasilah overweight.
+Upon putting all the bales to this test, I perceived that Jetta's
+guess-work, with all his experience, had caused considerable
+trouble to me.
+
+The soldiers were set to work to reopen and repack, which latter
+task is performed in the following manner:--We cut a doti, or four
+yards of Merikani, ordinarily sold at Zanzibar for $2.75 the
+piece of thirty yards, and spread out. We take a piece or bolt
+of good Merikani, and instead of the double fold given it by the
+Nashua and Salem mills, we fold it into three parts, by which the
+folds have a breadth of a foot; this piece forms the first layer,
+and will weigh nine pounds; the second layer consists of six pieces
+of Kaniki, a blue stuff similar to the blouse stuff of France, and
+th blue jeans of America, though much lighter; the third layer is
+formed of the second piece of Merikani, the fourth of six more
+pieces of Kaniki, the fifth of Merikani, the sixth of Kaniki as
+before, and the seventh and last of Merikani.  We have thus four
+pieces of Merikani, which weigh 36 lbs., and 18 pieces of Kaniki
+weighing also 36 lbs., making a total of 72 lbs., or a little
+more than two frasilahs; the cloth is then folded singly over these
+layers, each corner tied to another.  A bundle of coir-rope is
+then brought, and two men, provided with a wooden mallet for
+beating and pressing the bale, proceed to tie it up with as much
+nicety as sailors serve down rigging.
+
+When complete, a bale is a solid mass three feet and a half long,
+a foot deep, and a foot wide.  Of these bales I had to convey
+eighty-two to Unyanyembe, forty of which consisted solely of the
+Merikani and Kaniki.  The other forty-two contained the Merikani
+and coloured cloths, which latter were to serve as honga or tribute
+cloths, and to engage another set of pagazis from Unyanyembe to
+Ujiji, and from Ujiji to the regions beyond.
+
+The fifteenth day asked of me by Ali bin Salim for the procuring
+of the pagazis passed by, and there was not the ghost of a pagazi
+in my camp.  I sent Mabruki the Bullheaded to Ali bin Salim, to
+convey my salaams and express a hope that he had kept his word.
+In half an hour's time Mabruki returned with the reply of the
+Arab, that in a few days he would be able to collect them all;
+but, added Mabruki, slyly, "Bana, I don't believe him.  He said
+aloud to himself, in my hearing, `Why should I get the Musungu
+pagazis?  Seyd Burghash did not send a letter to me, but to the
+Jemadar.  Why should I trouble myself about him?  Let Seyd
+Burghash write me a letter to that purpose, and I will procure
+them within two days."'
+
+To my mind this was a time for action:  Ali bin Salim should see
+that it was ill trifling with a white man in earnest to start.
+I rode down to his house to ask him what he meant.
+
+His reply was, Mabruki had told a lie as black as his face.  He
+had never said anything approaching to such a thing.  He was
+willing to become my slave--to become a pagazi himself.  But here I
+stopped the voluble Ali, and informed him that I could not think of
+employing him in the capacity of a pagazi, neither could I find it
+in my heart to trouble Seyd Burghash to write a direct letter to
+him, or to require of a man who had deceived me once, as Ali bin
+Salim had, any service of any nature whatsoever.  It would be
+better, therefore, if Ali bin Salim would stay away from my
+camp, and not enter it either in person or by proxy.
+
+I had lost fifteen days, for Jemadar Sadur, at Kaole, had never
+stirred from his fortified house in that village in my service,
+save to pay a visit, after the receipt of the Sultan's letter.
+Naranji, custom-house agent at Kaoie, solely under the thumb of
+the great Ludha Damji, had not responded to Ludha's worded request
+that he would procure pagazis, except with winks, nods, and
+promises, and it is but just stated how I fared at the hands of Ali
+bin Salim.  In this extremity I remembered the promise made to me
+by the great merchant of Zanzibar--Tarya Topan--a Mohammedan
+Hindi--that he would furnish me with a letter to a young man named
+Soor Hadji Palloo, who was said to be the best man in Bagamoyo to
+procure a supply of pagazis.
+
+I despatched my Arab interpreter by a dhow to Zanzibar, with a
+very earnest request to Capt. Webb that he would procure from
+Tarya Topan the introductory letter so long delayed.  It was the
+last card in my hand.
+
+On the third day the Arab returned, bringing with him not only
+the letter to Soor Hadji Palloo, but an abundance of good things
+from the ever-hospitable house of Mr. Webb.  In a very short time
+after the receipt of his letter, the eminent young man Soor Hadji
+Palloo came to visit me, and informed me he had been requested by
+Tarya Topan to hire for me one hundred and forty pagazis to
+Unyanyembe in the shortest time possible.  This he said would be
+very expensive, for there were scores of Arabs and Wasawabili
+merchants on the look out for every caravan that came in from the
+interior, and they paid 20 doti, or 80 yards of cloth, to each
+pagazi.  Not willing or able to pay more, many of these merchants
+had been waiting as long as six months before they could get their
+quota.  "If you," continued he, "desire to depart quickly, you
+must pay from 25 to 40 doti, and I can send you off before one
+month is ended.  "In reply, I said, "Here are my cloths for pagazis
+to the amount of $1,750, or 3,500 doti, sufficient to give one
+hundred and forty men 25 doti each.  The most I am willing to pay
+is 25 doti: send one hundred and forty pagazis to Unyanyembe
+with my cloth and wire, and I will make your heart glad with the
+richest present you have ever received."  With a refreshing naivete,
+the "young man" said he did not want any present, he would get
+me my quota of pagazis, and then I could tell the "Wasungu" what
+a good "young man" he was, and consequently the benefit he would
+receive would be an increase of business.  He closed his reply
+with the astounding remark that he had ten pagazis at his house
+already, and if I would be good enough to have four bales of cloth,
+two bags of beads, and twenty coils of wire carried to his house,
+the pagazis could leave Bagamoyo the next day, under charge of
+three soldiers.
+
+"For, he remarked, "it is much better and cheaper to send many
+small caravans than one large one.  Large caravans invite attack,
+or are delayed by avaricious chiefs upon the most trivial pretexts,
+while small ones pass by without notice."
+
+The bales and the beads were duly carried to Soor Hadji Palloo's
+house, and the day passed with me in mentally congratulating myself
+upon my good fortune, in complimenting the young Hindi's talents
+for business, the greatness and influence of Tarya Topan, and the
+goodness of Mr. Webb in thus hastening my departure from Bagamoyo.
+I mentally vowed a handsome present, and a great puff in my book,
+to Soor Hadji Palloo, and it was with a glad heart that I prepared
+these soldiers for their march to Unyayembe.
+
+The task of preparing the first caravan for the Unyanyembe road
+informed me upon several things that have escaped the notice of
+my predecessors in East Africa, a timely knowledge of which would
+have been of infinite service to me at Zanzibar, in the purchase
+and selection of sufficient and proper cloth.
+
+The setting out of the first caravan enlightened me also on the
+subject of honga, or tribute.  Tribute had to be packed by itself,
+all of choice cloth; for the chiefs, besides being avaricious, are
+also very fastidious.  They will not accept the flimsy cloth of the
+pagazi, but a royal and exceedingly high-priced dabwani, Ismahili,
+Rehani, or a Sohari, or dotis of crimson broad cloth.  The tribute
+for the first caravan cost $25.  Having more than one hundred and
+forty pagazis to despatch, this tribute money would finally amount
+to $330 in gold, with a minimum of 25c. on each dollar.  Ponder on
+this, O traveller!  I lay bare these facts for your special instruction.
+
+But before my first caravan was destined to part company with me,
+Soor Hadji Palloo--worthy young man--and I were to come to a
+definite understanding about money matters.  The morning appointed
+for departure Soor Hadji Palloo came to my hut and presented his
+bill, with all the gravity of innocence, for supplying the pagazis
+with twenty-five doti each as their hire to Unyanyembe, begging
+immediate payment in money.  Words fail to express the astonishment
+I naturally felt, that this sharp-looking young man should so soon
+have forgotten the verbal contract entered into between him and
+myself the morning previous, which was to the effect that out of
+the three thousand doti stored in my tent, and bought expressly
+for pagazi hire, each and every man hired for me as carriers from
+Bagamoyo to Unyanyembe, should be paid out of the store there in
+my tent.  when I asked if he remembered the contract, he replied
+in the affirmative: his reasons for breaking it so soon were,
+that he wished to sell his cloths, not mine, and for his cloths
+he should want money, not an exchange.  But I gave him to comprehend
+that as he was procuring pagazis for me, he was to pay my pagazis
+with my cloths; that all the money I expected to pay him, should be
+just such a sum I thought adequate for his trouble as my agent,
+and that only on those terms should he act for me in this or any
+other matter, and that the "Musungu" was not accustomed to eat
+his words.
+
+The preceding paragraph embodies many more words than are contained
+in it.  It embodies a dialogue of an hour, an angry altercation
+of half-an-hour's duration, a vow taken on the part of Soor Hadji
+Palloo, that if I did not take his cloths he should not touch my
+business, many tears, entreaties, woeful penitence, and much else,
+all of which were responded to with, "Do as I want you to do, or do
+nothing.  "Finally came relief, and a happy ending.  Soor Hadji
+Palloo went away with a bright face, taking with him the three
+soldiers' posho (food), and honga (tribute) for the caravan.  Well
+for me that it ended so, and that subsequent quarrels of a similar
+nature terminated so peaceably, otherwise I doubt whether my
+departure from Bagamoyo would have happened so early as it did.
+While I am on this theme, and as it really engrossed every moment
+of my time at Bagamoyo, I may as well be more explicit regarding
+Boor Hadji Palloo and his connection with my business.
+
+Soor Hadji Palloo was a smart young man of business, energetic,
+quick at mental calculation, and seemed to be born for a successful
+salesman.  His eyes were never idle; they wandered over every
+part of my person, over the tent, the bed, the guns, the clothes,
+and having swung clear round, began the silent circle over again.
+His fingers were never at rest, they had a fidgety, nervous
+action at their tips, constantly in the act of feeling something;
+while in the act of talking to me, he would lean over and feel the
+texture of the cloth of my trousers, my coat, or my shoes or
+socks: then he would feel his own light jamdani shirt or dabwain
+loin-cloth, until his eyes casually resting upon a novelty, his
+body would lean forward, and his arm was stretched out with the
+willing fingers.  His jaws also were in perpetual motion, caused by
+vile habits he had acquired of chewing betel-nut and lime, and
+sometimes tobacco and lime.  They gave out a sound similar to that
+of a young shoat, in the act of sucking.  He was a pious
+Mohammedan, and observed the external courtesies and ceremonies
+of the true believers.  He would affably greet me, take off his
+shoes, enter my tent protesting he was not fit to sit in my
+presence, and after being seated, would begin his ever-crooked
+errand.  Of honesty, literal and practical honesty, this youth knew
+nothing; to the pure truth he was an utter stranger; the
+falsehoods he had uttered during his short life seemed already to
+have quenched the bold gaze of innocence from his eyes, to have
+banished the colour of truthfulness from his features, to have
+transformed him--yet a stripling of twenty--into a most accomplished
+rascal, and consummate expert in dishonesty.
+
+During the six weeks I encamped at Bagamoyo, waiting for my quota
+of men, this lad of twenty gave me very much trouble.  He was
+found out half a dozen times a day in dishonesty, yet was in no
+way abashed by it.  He would send in his account of the cloths
+supplied to the pagazis, stating them to be 25 paid to each; on
+sending a man to inquire I would find the greatest number to have
+been 20, and the smallest 12.  Soor Hadji Palloo described the
+cloths to be of first-class quality, Ulyah cloths, worth in the
+market four times more than the ordinary quality given to the
+pagazis, yet a personal examination would prove them to be the
+flimsiest goods sold, such as American sheeting 2 1/2 feet broad,
+and worth $2.75 per 30 yards a piece at Zanzibar, or the most
+inferior Kaniki, which is generally sold at $9 per score.  He
+would personally come to my camp and demand 40 lbs. of Sami-Sami,
+Merikani, and Bubu beads for posho, or caravan rations; an
+inspection of their store before departure from their first camp
+from Bagamoyo would show a deficiency ranging from 5 to 30 lbs.
+Moreover, he cheated in cash-money, such as demanding $4 for
+crossing the Kingani Ferry for every ten pagazis, when the fare
+was $2 for the same number; and an unconscionable number of pice
+(copper coins equal in value to 3/4 of a cent) were required for
+posho.  It was every day for four weeks that this system of
+roguery was carried out. Each day conceived a dozen new schemes;
+every instant of his time he seemed to be devising how to plunder,
+until I was fairly at my wits' end how to thwart him.  Exposure
+before a crowd of his fellows brought no blush of shame to his
+sallow cheeks; he would listen with a mere shrug of the shoulders
+and that was all, which I might interpret any way it pleased me.
+A threat to reduce his present had no effect; a bird in the hand
+was certainly worth two in the bush for him, so ten dollars' worth
+of goods stolen and in his actual possession was of more intrinsic
+value than the promise of $20 in a few days, though it was that of
+a white man.
+
+Readers will of course ask themselves why I did not, after the
+first discovery of these shameless proceedings, close my business
+with him, to which I make reply, that I could not do without him
+unless his equal were forthcoming, that I never felt so thoroughly
+dependent on any one man as I did upon him; without his or his
+duplicate's aid, I must have stayed at Bagamoyo at least six
+months, at the end of which time the Expedition would have become
+valueless, the rumour of it having been blown abroad to the four
+winds.  It was immediate departure that was essential to my
+success--departure from Bagamoyo--after which it might be possible
+for me to control my own future in a great measure.
+
+These troubles were the greatest that I could at this time imagine.
+I have already stated that I had $1,750 worth of pagazis'
+clothes, or 3,500 doti, stored in my tent, and above what my
+bales contained.  Calculating one hundred and forty pagazis at 25
+doti each, I supposed I had enough, yet, though I had been trying
+to teach the young Hindi that the Musungu was not a fool, nor blind
+to his pilfering tricks, though the 3,500 doti were all spent;
+though I had only obtained one hundred and thirty pagazis at 25
+doti each, which in the aggregate amounted to 3,200 doti: Soor
+Hadji Palloo's bill was $1,400 cash extra.  His plea was that he
+had furnished Ulyah clothes for Muhongo 240 doti, equal in value to
+960 of my doti, that the money was spent in ferry pice, in
+presents to chiefs of caravans of tents, guns, red broad cloth, in
+presents to people on the Mrima (coast) to induce them to hunt up
+pagazis.  Upon this exhibition of most ruthless cheating I waxed
+indignant, and declared to him that if he did not run over his bill
+and correct it, he should go without a pice.
+
+But before the bill could be put into proper shape, my words,
+threats, and promises falling heedlessly on a stony brain, a man,
+Kanjee by name, from the store of Tarya Topan, of Zanzibar, had to
+come over, when the bill was finally reduced to $738.  Without any
+disrespect to Tarya Topan, I am unable to decide which is the most
+accomplished rascal, Kanjee, or young Soor Hadji Palloo; in the
+words of a white man who knows them both, "there is not the
+splitting of a straw between them." Kanjee is deep and sly, Soor
+Hadji Palloo is bold and incorrigible.  But peace be to them both,
+may their shaven heads never be covered with the troublous crown
+I wore at Bagamoyo!
+
+My dear friendly reader, do not think, if I speak out my mind in
+this or in any other chapter upon matters seemingly trivial and
+unimportant, that seeming such they should be left unmentioned.
+Every tittle related is a fact, and to knew facts is to receive
+knowledge.
+
+How could I ever recite my experience to you if I did not enter
+upon these miserable details, which sorely distract the stranger
+upon his first arrival?  Had I been a Government official, I had
+but wagged my finger and my quota of pagazis had been furnished
+me within a week; but as an individual arriving without the graces
+of official recognition, armed with no Government influence, I had
+to be patient, bide my time, and chew the cud of irritation
+quietly, but the bread I ate was not all sour, as this was.
+
+The white men, Farquhar and Shaw, were kept steadily at work upon
+water-proof tents of hemp canvas, for I perceived, by the
+premonitory showers of rain that marked the approach of the Masika
+that an ordinary tent of light cloth would subject myself to damp
+and my goods to mildew, and while there was time to rectify all
+errors that had crept into my plans through ignorance or over
+haste, I thought it was not wise to permit things to rectify
+themselves.  Now that I have returned uninjured in health, though
+I have suffered the attacks of twenty-three fevers within the short
+space of thirteen months; I must confess I owe my life, first, to
+the mercy of God; secondly, to the enthusiasm for my work, which
+animated me from the beginning to the end; thirdly, to having
+never ruined my constitution by indulgence in vice and
+intemperance; fourthly, to the energy of my nature; fifthly, to
+a native hopefulness which never died; and, sixthly, to having
+furnished myself with a capacious water and damp proof canvas
+house.  And here, if my experience may be of value, I would
+suggest that travellers, instead of submitting their better
+judgment to the caprices of a tent-maker, who will endeavour to
+pass off a handsomely made fabric of his own, which is unsuited
+to all climes, to use his own judgment, and get the best and
+strongest that money will buy.  In the end it will prove the
+cheapest, and perhaps be the means of saving his life.
+
+On one point I failed,, and lest new and young travellers fall into
+the same error which marred much of my enjoyment, this paragraph
+is written.  One must be extremely careful in his choice of
+weapons, whether for sport or defence.  A traveller should have at
+least three different kinds of guns.  One should be a fowling-piece,
+the second should be a double-barrelled rifle, No. 10 or 12, the
+third should be a magazine-rifle, for defence.  For the fowling-piece
+I would suggest No. 12 bore, with barrels at least four feet in length.
+For the rifle for larger game, I would point out, with due deference
+to old sportsmen, of course, that the best guns for African game
+are the English Lancaster and Reilly rifles; and for a fighting
+weapon, I maintain that the best yet invented is the American
+Winchester repeating rifle, or the "sixteen, shooter" as it is
+called, supplied with the London Eley's ammunition.  If I suggest
+as a fighting weapon the American Winchester, I do not mean that
+the traveller need take it for the purpose of offence, but as
+the beat means of efficient defence, to save his own life against
+African banditti, when attacked, a thing likely to happen any time.
+
+I met a young man soon after returning from the interior, who
+declared his conviction that the "Express," rifle was the most
+perfect weapon ever invented to destroy African game.  Very
+possibly the young man may be right, and that the "Express "
+rifle is all he declares it to be, but he had never practised with
+it against African game, and as I had never tried it, I could not
+combat his assertion: but I could relate my experiences with weapons,
+having all the penetrating powers of the "Express," and could
+inform him that though the bullets penetrated through the animals,
+they almost always failed to bring down the game at the first fire.
+On the other hand, I could inform him, that during the time I
+travelled with Dr. Livingstone the Doctor lent me his heavy Reilly
+rifle with which I seldom failed to bring an animal or two home
+to the camp, and that I found the Fraser shell answer all purposes
+for which it was intended.  The feats related by Capt. Speke and
+Sir Samuel Baker are no longer matter of wonderment to the young
+]sportsman, when he has a Lancaster or a Reilly in his hand.
+After very few trials he can imitate them, if not excel their
+Leeds, provided he has a steady hand.  And it is to forward this
+end that this paragraph is written.  African game require
+"bone-crushers;" for any ordinary carbine possesses sufficient
+penetrative qualities, yet has not he disabling qualities which
+a gun must possess to be useful in the hands of an African explorer.
+
+I had not been long at Bagamoyo before I went over to Mussoudi's
+camp, to visit the "Livingstone caravan" which the British Consul
+had despatched on the first day of November, 1870, to the relief of
+Livingstone.  The number of packages was thirty-five, which required
+as many men to convey them to Unyanyembe.  The men chosen to escort
+this caravan were composed of Johannese and Wahiyow, seven in number.
+Out of the seven, four were slaves.  They lived in clover here--
+thoughtless of the errand they had been sent upon, and careless of
+the consequences.  What these men were doing at Bagamoyo all this
+time I never could conceive, except indulging their own vicious
+propensities.  It would be nonsense to say there were no pagazis;
+because I know there were at least fifteen caravans which had
+started for the interior since the Ramadan (December 15th, 1870).
+Yet Livingstone's caravan had arrived at this little town of Bagamoyo
+November 2nd, and here it had been lying until the 10th February,
+in all, 100 days, for lack of the limited number of thirty-five
+pagazis, a number that might be procured within two days through
+consular influence.
+
+Bagamoyo has a most enjoyable climate.  It is far preferable in
+every sense to that of Zanzibar.  We were able to sleep in the
+open air, and rose refreshed and healthy each morning, to enjoy
+our matutinal bath in the sea; and by the time the sun had risen
+we were engaged in various preparations for our departure for the
+interior.  Our days were enlivened by visits from the Arabs who
+were also bound for Unyanyembe; by comical scenes in the camp;
+sometimes by court-martials held on the refractory; by a
+boxing-match between Farquhar and Shaw, necessitating my prudent
+interference when they waxed too wroth; by a hunting excursion
+now and then to the Kingani plain and river; by social
+conversation with the old Jemadar and his band of Baluches, who
+were never tired of warning me that the Masika was at hand, and of
+advising me that my best course was to hurry on before the season
+for travelling expired.
+
+Among the employees with the Expedition were two Hindi and two
+Goanese.  They had conceived the idea that the African interior
+was an El Dorado, the ground of which was strewn over with ivory
+tusks, and they had clubbed together; while their imaginations
+were thus heated, to embark in a little enterprise of their own.
+Their names were Jako, Abdul Kader, Bunder Salaam, and Aranselar;
+Jako engaged in my service, as carpenter and general help; Abdul
+Kader as a tailor, Bunder Salaam as cook, and Aranselar as chief
+butler.
+
+But Aranselar, with an intuitive eye, foresaw that I was likely to
+prove a vigorous employer, and while there was yet time he devoted
+most of it to conceive how it were possible to withdraw from the
+engagement.  He received permission upon asking for it to go to
+Zanzibar to visit his friends.  Two days afterwards I was informed
+he had blown his right eye out, and received a medical confirmation
+of the fact, and note of the extent of the injury, from Dr.
+Christie, the physician to His Highness Seyd Burghash.  His
+compatriots I imagined were about planning the same thing, but a
+peremptory command to abstain from such folly, issued after they
+had received their advance-pay, sufficed to check any sinister
+designs they may have formed.
+
+A groom was caught stealing from the bales, one night, and the
+chase after him into the country until he vanished out of sight
+into the jungle, was one of the most agreeable diversions which
+occurred to wear away the interval employed in preparing for the
+march.
+
+I had now despatched four caravans into the interior, and the
+fifth, which was to carry the boats and boxes, personal luggage,
+and a few cloth and bead loads, was ready to be led by myself.
+The following is the order of departure of the caravans.
+
+1871. Feb. 6.--Expedition arrived at Bagamoyo.
+
+1871. Feb. 18.--First caravan departs with twenty-four pagazis and
+three soldiers.
+
+1871. Feb. 21.--Second caravan departs with twenty-eight pagazis,
+two chiefs, and two soldiers.
+
+1871. Feb. 25.--Third caravan departs with twenty-two pagazis,
+ten donkeys, one white man, one cook, and three soldiers.
+
+1871. March. 11.--Fourth caravan departs with fifty-five pagazis,
+two chiefs, and three soldiers.
+
+1871. March. 21.--Fifth caravan departs with twenty-eight pagazis,
+twelve soldiers, two white men, one tailor, one cook, one interpreter,
+one gun-bearer, seventeen asses, two horses, and one dog.
+
+Total number, inclusive of all souls, comprised in caravans
+connected with the "New York Herald' Expedition," 192.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V.  THROUGH UKWERE, UKAMI, AND UDOE TO USEGUHHA.
+
+
+Leaving Bagamoyo for the interior.--Constructing a Bridge.--Our
+first troubles.--Shooting Hippopotami.--A first view of the Game
+Land.--Anticipating trouble with the Wagogo.--The dreadful poison-
+flies.--Unlucky adventures while hunting.--The cunning chief of
+Kingaru.--Sudden death of my two horses.--A terrible experience.--
+The city of the "Lion Lord."
+
+
+On the 21st of March, exactly seventy-three days after my arrival
+at Zanzibar, the fifth caravan, led by myself, left the town of
+Bagamoyo for our first journey westward, with "Forward!" for its
+mot du guet.  As the kirangozi unrolled the American flag, and put
+himself at the head of the caravan, and the pagazis, animals,
+soldiers, and idlers were lined for the march, we bade a long
+farewell to the dolce far niente of civilised life, to the blue
+ocean, and to its open road to home, to the hundreds of dusky
+spectators who were there to celebrate our departure with
+repeated salvoes of musketry.
+
+Our caravan is composed of twenty-eight pagazis, including the
+kirangozi, or guide; twelve soldiers under Capt. Mbarak Bombay,
+in charge of seventeen donkeys and their loads; Selim, my
+interpreter, in charge of the donkey and cart and its load; one
+cook and sub, who is also to be tailor and ready hand for all, and
+leads the grey horse; Shaw, once mate of a ship, now transformed
+into rearguard and overseer for the caravan, who is mounted on a
+good riding-donkey, and wearing a canoe-like tepee and sea-boots;
+and lastly, on, the splendid bay horse presented to me by Mr.
+Goodhue, myself, called Bana Mkuba, "the "big master," by my
+people--the vanguard, the reporter, the thinker, and leader of
+the Expedition.
+
+Altogether the Expedition numbers on the day of departure three
+white men, twenty-three soldiers, four supernumeraries, four
+chiefs, and one hundred and fifty-three pagazis, twenty-seven
+donkeys, and one cart, conveying cloth, beads, and wire,
+boat-fixings, tents, cooking utensils and dishes, medicine, powder,
+small shot, musket-balls, and metallic cartridges; instruments and
+small necessaries, such as soap, sugar, tea, coffee, Liebig's
+extract of meat, pemmican, candles, &c., which make a total of 153
+loads.  The weapons of defence which the Expedition possesses
+consist of one double-barrel breech-loading gun, smooth bore; one
+American Winchester rifle, or "sixteen-shooter;" one Henry rifle,
+or "sixteen-shooter;" two Starr's breech-loaders, one Jocelyn
+breech-loader, one elephant rifle, carrying balls eight to the
+pound; two breech-loading revolvers, twenty-four muskets (flint
+locks), six single-barrelled pistols, one battle-axe, two swords,
+two daggers (Persian kummers, purchased at Shiraz by myself),
+one boar-spear, two American axes 4 lbs. each, twenty-four hatchets,
+and twenty-four butcher-knives.
+
+
+The Expedition has been fitted with care; whatever it needed was not
+stinted; everything was provided.  Nothing was done too hurriedly,
+yet everything was purchased, manufactured, collected, and compounded
+with the utmost despatch consistent with efficiency and means.
+Should it fail of success in its errand of rapid transit to Ujiji
+and back, it must simply happen from an accident which could not
+be controlled.  So much for the _personnel_ of the Expedition and
+its purpose, until its _point de mire_ be reached.
+
+We left Bagamoyo the attraction of all the curious, with much eclat,
+and defiled up a narrow lane shaded almost to twilight by the dense
+umbrage of two parallel hedges of mimosas.  We were all in the
+highest spirits.  The soldiers sang, the kirangozi lifted his voice
+into a loud bellowing note, and fluttered the American flag, which
+told all on-lookers, "Lo, a Musungu's caravan!" and my heart, I
+thought, palpitated much too quickly for the sober face of a leader.
+But I could not check it; the enthusiasm of youth still clung to
+me--despite my travels; my pulses bounded with the full glow of
+staple health; behind me were the troubles which had harassed me
+for over two months.  With that dishonest son of a Hindi, Soor
+Hadji Palloo, I had said my last word; of the blatant rabble,
+of Arabs, Banyans, and Baluches I had taken my last look;  with
+the Jesuits of the French Mission I had exchanged farewells,
+and before me beamed the sun of promise as he sped towards the
+Occident.  Loveliness glowed around me.  I saw fertile fields,
+riant vegetation, strange trees--I heard the cry of cricket
+and pee-wit, and sibilant sound of many insects, all of which
+seemed to tell me, "At last you are started."  What could I
+do but lift my face toward the pure-glowing sky, and cry,
+"God be thanked!"
+
+The first camp, Shamba Gonera, we arrived at in 1 hour 30 minutes,
+equal to 3 1/4 miles.  This first, or "little journey," was
+performed very well, "considering," as the Irishman says.
+The boy Selim upset the cart not more than three times.  Zaidi,
+the soldier, only once let his donkey, which carried one bag
+of my clothes and a box of ammunition, lie in a puddle of
+black water.  The clothes have to be re-washed; the
+ammunition-box, thanks to my provision, was waterproof.
+Kamna perhaps knew the art of donkey-driving, but, overjoyful
+at the departure, had sung himself into oblivion of the
+difficulties with which an animal of the pure asinine breed has
+naturally to contend against, such as not knowing the right road,
+and inability to resist the temptation of straying into the depths
+of a manioc field; and the donkey, ignorant of the custom in vogue
+amongst ass-drivers of flourishing sticks before an animal's nose,
+and misunderstanding the direction in which he was required to go,
+ran off at full speed along an opposite road, until his pack got
+unbalanced, and he was fain to come to the earth.  But these
+incidents were trivial, of no importance, and natural to the first
+"little journey" in East Africa.
+
+The soldiers' point of character leaked out just a little.  Bombay
+turned out to be honest and trusty, but slightly disposed to be
+dilatory.  Uledi did more talking than work; while the runaway
+Ferajji and the useless-handed Mabruki Burton turned out to be true
+men and staunch, carrying loads the sight of which would have caused
+the strong-limbed hamals of Stamboul to sigh.
+
+The saddles were excellent, surpassing expectation.  The strong
+hemp canvas bore its one hundred and fifty-pounds' burden with the
+strength of bull hide, and the loading and unloading of
+miscellaneous baggage was performed with systematic despatch.  In
+brief, there was nothing to regret--the success of the journey
+proved our departure to be anything but premature.
+
+The next three days were employed in putting the finishing touches
+to our preparations for the long land journey and our precautions
+against the Masika, which was now ominously near, and in settling
+accounts.
+
+Shamba Gonera means Gonera's Field.  Gonera is a wealthy Indian
+widow, well disposed towards the Wasungu (whites).  She exports
+much cloth, beads, and wire into the far interior, and imports
+in return much ivory.  Her house is after the model of the town
+houses, with long sloping roof and projecting eaves, affording a
+cool shade, under which the pagazis love to loiter.  On its
+southern and eastern side stretch the cultivated fields which
+supply Bagamoyo with the staple grain, matama, of East Africa;
+on the left grow Indian corn, and muhogo, a yam-like root of
+whitish colour, called by some manioc; when dry, it is ground
+and compounded into cakes similar to army slapjacks.  On the
+north, just behind the house, winds a black quagmire, a
+sinuous hollow, which in its deepest parts always contains
+water--the muddy home of the brake-and-rush-loving "kiboko"
+or hippopotamus.  Its banks, crowded with dwarf fan-palm,
+tall water-reeds, acacias, and tiger-grass, afford shelter to
+numerous aquatic birds, pelicans, &c.  After following a
+course north-easterly, it conflows with the Kingani, which,
+at distance of four miles from Gonera's country-house; bends
+eastward into the sea.  To the west, after a mile of cultivation,
+fall and recede in succession the sea-beach of old in lengthy
+parallel waves, overgrown densely with forest grass and marsh
+reeds.  On the spines of these land-swells flourish ebony,
+calabash, and mango.
+
+"Sofari--sofari leo!  Pakia, pakia!"--" A journey--a journey to
+day!  Set out!--set out!" rang the cheery voice of the kirangozi,
+echoed by that of my servant Selim, on the morning of the fourth
+day, which was fixed for our departure in earnest.  As I hurried
+my men to their work, and lent a hand with energy to drop the tents,
+I mentally resolved that, if my caravans a should give me clear
+space, Unyanyembe should be our resting-place before three months
+expired.  By 6 A.M. our early breakfast was despatched, and the
+donkeys and pagazis were defiling from Camp Gonera.  Even at this
+early hour, and in this country place, there was quite a collection
+of curious natives, to whom we gave the parting "Kwaheri " with
+sincerity.  My bay horse was found to be invaluable for the
+service of a quarter-master of a transport-train; for to such was
+I compelled to compare myself.  I could stay behind until the last
+donkey had quitted the camp, and, by a few minutes' gallop, I could
+put myself at the head, leaving Shaw to bring up the rear.
+
+The road was a mere footpath, and led over a soil which, though
+sandy, was of surprising fertility, producing grain and vegetables
+a hundredfold, the sowing and planting of which was done in the
+most unskilful manner.  In their fields, at heedless labor, were
+men and women in the scantiest costumes, compared to which Adam
+and Eve, in their fig-tree apparel, must have been _en grande
+tenue_.  We passed them with serious faces, while they laughed and
+giggled, and pointed their index fingers at this and that, which to
+them seemed so strange and bizarre.
+
+In about half an hour we had left the tall matama and fields of
+water-melons, cucumbers, and manioc; and, crossing a reedy
+slough, were in an open forest of ebony and calabash.  In its
+depths are deer in plentiful numbers, and at night it is visited by
+the hippopotami of the Kingani for the sake of its grass.  In
+another hour we had emerged from the woods, and were looking down
+upon the broad valley of the Kingani, and a scene presented itself
+so utterly different from what my foolish imagination had drawn,
+that I felt quite relieved by the pleasing disappointment.  Here
+was a valley stretching four miles east and west, and about
+eight miles north and south, left with the richest soil to its own
+wild growth of grass--which in civilization would have been a most
+valuable meadow for the rearing of cattle--invested as it was by
+dense forests, darkening the horizon at all points of the compass,
+and folded in by tree-clad ridges.
+
+At the sound of our caravan the red antelope bounded away to our
+right and the left, and frogs hushed their croak.  The sun shone
+hot, and while traversing the valley we experienced a little of
+its real African fervour.  About half way across we came to a
+sluice of stagnant water which, directly in the road of the
+caravan, had settled down into an oozy pond.  The pagazis crossed
+a hastily-constructed bridge, thrown up a long time ago by some
+Washensi Samaritans.  It was an extraordinary affair; rugged tree
+limbs resting on very unsteady forked piles, and it had evidently
+tested the patience of many a loaded Mnyamwezi, as it did those
+porters of our caravan.  Our weaker animals were unloaded, the
+puddle between Bagamoyo and Genera having taught us prudence.
+But this did not occasion much delay; the men worked smartly
+under Shaw's supervision.
+
+The turbid Kingani, famous for its hippopotami, was reached in a
+short time, and we began to thread the jungle along its right bank
+until we were halted point-blank by a narrow sluice having an
+immeasurable depth of black mud.  The difficulty presented by
+this was very grave, though its breadth was barely eight feet;
+the donkeys, and least of all the horses, could not be made to
+traverse two poles like our biped carriers, neither could they be
+driven into the sluice, where they would quickly founder.  The
+only available way of crossing it in safety was by means of a
+bridge, to endure in this conservative land for generations as the
+handiwork of the Wasungu.  So we set to work, there being no help
+for it, with American axes--the first of their kind the strokes of
+which ever rang in this part of the world--to build a bridge.  Be
+sure it was made quickly, for where the civilized white is found,
+a difficulty must vanish.  The bridge was composed of six stout
+trees thrown across, over these were laid crosswise fifteen pack
+saddles, covered again with a thick layer of grass.  All the
+animals crossed it safely, and then for a third time that morning
+the process of wading was performed.  The Kingani flowed northerly
+here, and our course lay down its right bank.  A half mile in that
+direction through a jungle of giant reeds and extravagant climbers
+brought us to the ferry, where the animals had to be again
+unloaded--verily, I wished when I saw its deep muddy waters that I
+possessed the power of Moses with his magic rod, or what would have
+answered my purpose as well, Aladdin's ring, for then I could have
+found myself and party on the opposite side without further trouble;
+but not having either of these gifts I issued orders for an immediate
+crossing, for it was ill wishing sublime things before this most
+mundane prospect.
+
+Kingwere, the canoe paddler, espying us from his brake covert, on
+the opposite side, civilly responded to our halloos, and brought
+his huge hollowed tree skilfully over the whirling eddies of the
+river to where we stood waiting for him.  While one party loaded
+the canoe with our goods, others got ready a long rape to fasten
+around the animals' necks, wherewith to haul them through the
+river to the other bank.  After seeing the work properly
+commenced, I sat down on a condemned canoe to amuse myself with the
+hippopotami by peppering their thick skulls with my No. 12
+smooth-bore.  The Winchester rifle (calibre 44), a present from the
+Hon. Edward Joy Morris--our minister at Constantinople--did no more
+than slightly tap them, causing about as much injury as a boy's
+sling; it was perfect in its accuracy of fire, for ten times in
+succession I struck the tops of their heads between the ears.  One
+old fellow, with the look of a sage, was tapped close to the right
+ear by one of these bullets.  Instead of submerging himself as
+others had done he coolly turned round his head as if to ask, "Why
+this waste of valuable cartridges on us?"  The response to the mute
+inquiry of his sageship was an ounce-and-a-quarter bullet from the
+smooth-bore, which made him bellow with pain, and in a few moments
+he rose up again, tumbling in his death agonies.  As his groans
+were so piteous, I refrained from a useless sacrifice of life,
+and left the amphibious horde in peace.
+
+A little knowledge concerning these uncouth inmates of the African
+waters was gained even during the few minutes we were delayed at
+the ferry.  When undisturbed by foreign sounds, they congregate
+in shallow water on the sand bars, with the fore half of their
+bodies exposed to the warm sunshine, and are in appearance,
+when thus somnolently reposing, very like a herd of enormous
+swine.  When startled by the noise of an intruder, they plunge
+hastily into the depths, lashing the waters into a yellowish
+foam, and scatter themselves below the surface, when presently
+the heads of a few reappear, snorting the water from their
+nostrils, to take a fresh breath and a cautious scrutiny around
+them; when thus, we see but their ears, forehead, eyes and
+nostrils, and as they hastily submerge again it requires a steady
+wrist and a quick hand to shoot them.  I have heard several
+comparisons made of their appearance while floating in this
+manner: some Arabs told me before I had seen them that they looked
+like dead trees carried down the river; others, who in some
+country had seen hogs, thought they resembled them, but to my
+mind they look more like horses when swimming their curved necks
+and pointed ears, their wide eyes and expanded nostrils, favor
+greatly this comparison.
+
+At night they seek the shore, and wander several miles over the
+country, luxuriating among its rank grasses.  To within four miles
+of the town of Bagamoyo (the Kingani is eight miles distant) their
+wide tracks are seen.  Frequently, if not disturbed by the
+startling human voice, they make a raid on the rich corn-stalks of
+the native cultivators, and a dozen of them will in a few minutes
+make a frightful havoc in a large field of this plant.
+Consequently, we were not surprised, while delayed at the ferry,
+to hear the owners of the corn venting loud halloos, like the
+rosy-cheeked farmer boys in England when scaring the crows away
+from the young wheat.
+
+The caravan in the meanwhile had crossed safely--bales, baggage,
+donkeys, and men.  I had thought to have camped on the bank, so as
+to amuse myself with shooting antelope, and also for the sake of
+procuring their meat, in order to save my goats, of which I had a
+number constituting my live stock of provisions; but, thanks to
+the awe and dread which my men entertained of the hippopotami, I
+was hurried on to the outpost of the Baluch garrison at Bagamoyo,
+a small village called Kikoka, distant four miles from the river.
+
+The western side of the river was a considerable improvement upon
+the eastern.  The plain, slowly heaving upwards, as smoothly as
+the beach of a watering-place, for the distance of a mile, until it
+culminated in a gentle and rounded ridge, presented none of those
+difficulties which troubled us on the other side.  There were none
+of those cataclysms of mire and sloughs of black mud and over-tall
+grasses, none of that miasmatic jungle with its noxious emissions;
+it was just such a scene as one may find before an English
+mansion--a noble expanse of lawn and sward, with boscage sufficient
+to agreeably diversify it. After traversing the open plain, the
+road led through a grove of young ebony trees, where guinea-fowls
+and a hartebeest were seen; it then wound, with all the
+characteristic eccentric curves of a goat-path, up and down a
+succession of land-waves crested by the dark green foliage of the
+mango, and the scantier and lighter-coloured leaves of the enormous
+calabash.  The depressions were filled with jungle of more or less
+density, while here and there opened glades, shadowed even during
+noon by thin groves of towering trees.  At our approach fled in
+terror flocks of green pigeons, jays, ibis, turtledoves, golden
+pheasants, quails and moorhens, with crows and hawks, while now
+and then a solitary pelican winged its way to the distance.
+
+Nor was this enlivening prospect without its pairs of antelope, and
+monkeys which hopped away like Australian kangaroos; these latter
+were of good size, with round bullet heads, white breasts, and long
+tails tufted at the end.
+
+We arrived at Kikoka by  5 P.m., having loaded and unloaded our
+pack animals four times, crossing one deep puddle, a mud sluice,
+and a river, and performed a journey of eleven miles.
+
+The settlement of Kikoka is a collection of straw huts; not built
+after any architectural style, but after a bastard form, invented
+by indolent settlers from the Mrima and Zanzibar for the purpose
+of excluding as much sunshine as possible from the eaves and
+interior.  A sluice and some wells provide them with water, which
+though sweet is not particularly wholesome or appetizing, owing to
+the large quantities of decayed matter which is washed into it by
+the rains, and is then left to corrupt in it. A weak effort has
+been made to clear the neighbourhood for providing a place for
+cultivation, but to the dire task of wood-chopping and
+jungle-clearing the settlers prefer occupying an open glade, which
+they clear of grass, so as to be able to hoe up two or three
+inches of soil, into which they cast their seed, confident of
+return.
+
+The next day was a halt at Kikoka; the fourth caravan,
+consisting solely of Wanyamwezi, proving a sore obstacle to a
+rapid advance.  Maganga, its chief, devised several methods of
+extorting more cloth and presents from me, he having cost already
+more than any three chiefs together; but his efforts were of no
+avail further than obtaining promises of reward if he would hurry
+on to Unyanyembe so that I might find my road clear.
+
+On the 2(7?)th, the Wanyamwezi having started, we broke camp soon
+after at 7 am.  The country was of the same nature as that lying
+between the Kingani and Kikokaa park land, attractive and beautiful
+in every feature.
+
+I rode in advance to secure meat should a chance present itself,
+but not the shadow of vert or venison did I see.  Ever in our
+front--westerly--rolled the land-waves, now rising, now subsiding,
+parallel one with the other, like a ploughed field many times
+magnified.  Each ridge had its knot of jungle or its thin combing
+of heavily foliaged trees, until we arrived close to Rosako, our
+next halting place, when the monotonous wavure of the land
+underwent a change, breaking into independent hummocks clad with
+dense jungle.  On one of these, veiled by an impenetrable jungle
+of thorny acacia, rested Rosako; girt round by its natural
+fortification, neighbouring another village to the north of it
+similarly protected.  Between them sank a valley extremely
+fertile and bountiful in its productions, bisected by a small
+stream, which serves as a drain to the valley or low hills
+surrounding it.
+
+Rosako is the frontier village of Ukwere, while Kikoka is the
+north-western extremity of Uzaramo.  We entered this village, and
+occupied its central portion with our tents and animals.  A
+kitanda, or square light bedstead, without valance, fringe, or any
+superfluity whatever, but nevertheless quite as comfortable as
+with them, was brought to my tent for my use by the village
+chief.  The animals were, immediately after being unloaded,
+driven out to feed, and the soldiers to a man set to work to pile
+the baggage up, lest the rain, which during the Masika season
+always appears imminent, might cause irreparable damage.
+
+Among other experiments which I was about to try in Africa was
+that of a good watch-dog on any unmannerly people who would
+insist upon coming into my tent at untimely hours and endangering
+valuables.  Especially did I wish to try the effect of its bark
+on the mighty Wagogo, who, I was told by certain Arabs, would
+lift the door of the tent and enter whether you wished them or not;
+who would chuckle at the fear they inspired, and say to you,
+"Hi, hi, white man, I never saw the like of you before; are there
+many more like you? where do you come from?"  Also would they
+take hold of your watch and ask you with a cheerful curiosity,
+"What is this for, white man?" to which you of course would reply
+that it was to tell you the hour and minute.  But the Mgogo, proud
+of his prowess, and more unmannerly than a brute, would answer you
+with a snort of insult. I thought of a watch-dog, and procured a
+good one at Bombay not only as a faithful companion, but to
+threaten the heels of just such gentry.
+
+But soon after our arrival at Rosako it was found that the dog,
+whose name was "Omar," given him from his Turkish origin, was
+missing; he had strayed away from the soldiers during a
+rain-squall and had got lost.  I despatched Mabruki Burton back to
+Kikoka to search for him.  On the following morning, just as we
+were about to leave Rosako, the faithful fellow returned with the
+lost dog, having found him at Kikoka.
+
+Previous to our departure on the morning after this, Maganga, chief
+of the fourth caravan, brought me the unhappy report that three of
+his pagazis were sick, and he would like to have some "dowa"--
+medicine.  Though not a doctor, or in any way connected with the
+profession, I had a well-supplied medicine chest--without which no
+traveller in Africa could live--for just such a contingency as was
+now present.  On visiting Maganga's sick men, I found one suffering
+from inflammation of the lungs, another from the mukunguru (African
+intermittent).  They all imagined themselves about to die, and
+called loudly for "Mama!" "Mama!" though they were all grown men.
+It was evident that the fourth caravan could not stir that day, so
+leaving word with Magauga to hurry after me as soon as possible, I
+issued orders for the march of my own.
+
+Excepting in the neighbourhood of the villages which we have passed
+there were no traces of cultivation.  The country extending
+between the several stations is as much a wilderness as the desert
+of Sahara, though it possesses a far more pleasing aspect.  Indeed,
+had the first man at the time of the Creation gazed at his world
+and perceived it of the beauty which belongs to this part of
+Africa, he would have had no cause of complaint.  In the deep
+thickets, set like islets amid a sea of grassy verdure, he would
+have found shelter from the noonday heat, and a safe retirement
+for himself and spouse during the awesome darkness.  In the morning
+he could have walked forth on the sloping sward, enjoyed its
+freshness, and performed his ablutions in one of the many small
+streams flowing at its foot.  His garden of fruit-trees is all that
+is required; the noble forests, deep and cool, are round about
+him, and in their shade walk as many animals as one can desire.
+For days and days let a man walk in any direction, north, south,
+east, and west, and he will behold the same scene.
+
+Earnestly as I wished to hurry on to Unyanyembe, still a
+heart-felt anxiety about the arrival of my goods carried by the
+fourth caravan, served as a drag upon me and before my caravan
+had marched nine miles my anxiety had risen to the highest pitch,
+and caused me to order a camp there and then.  The place selected
+for it was near a long straggling sluice, having an abundance of
+water during the rainy season, draining as it does two extensive
+slopes.  No sooner had we pitched our camp, built a boma of
+thorny acacia, and other tree branches, by stacking them round
+our camp, and driven our animals to grass; than we were made aware
+of the formidable number and variety of the insect tribe, which
+for a time was another source of anxiety, until a diligent
+examination of the several species dispelled it.
+
+As it was a most interesting hunt which I instituted for the
+several specimens of the insects, I here append the record of it
+for what it is worth.  My object in obtaining these specimens was
+to determine whether the genus _Glossina morsitans_ of the
+naturalist, or the tsetse (sometimes called setse) of Livingstone,
+Vardon, and Gumming, said to be deadly to horses, was amongst
+them.  Up to this date I had been nearly two months in East
+Africa, and had as yet seen no tsetse; and my horses, instead of
+becoming emaciated--for such is one of the symptoms of a tsetse
+bite--had considerably improved in condition.  There were three
+different species of flies which sought shelter in my tent, which,
+unitedly, kept up a continual chorus of sounds--one performed the
+basso profondo, another a tenor, and the third a weak contralto.
+The first emanated from a voracious and fierce fly, an inch long,
+having a ventral capacity for blood quite astonishing.
+
+This larger fly was the one chosen for the first inspection,
+which was of the intensest. I permitted one to alight on my
+flannel pyjamas, which I wore while en deshabille in camp.
+No sooner had he alighted than his posterior was raised, his
+head lowered, and his weapons, consisting of four hair-like
+styles, unsheathed from the proboscis-like bag which concealed
+them, and immediately I felt pain like that caused by a dexterous
+lancet-cut or the probe of a fine needle.  I permitted him to
+gorge himself, though my patience and naturalistic interest were
+sorely tried.  I saw his abdominal parts distend with the plenitude
+of the repast until it had swollen to three times its former
+shrunken girth, when he flew away of his own accord laden with blood.
+On rolling up my flannel pyjamas to see the fountain whence the
+fly had drawn the fluid, I discovered it to be a little above the
+left knee, by a crimson bead resting over the incision.  After
+wiping the blood the wound was similar to that caused by a deep
+thrust of a fine needle, but all pain had vanished with the
+departure of the fly.
+
+Having caught a specimen of this fly, I next proceeded to institute
+a comparison between it and the tsetse, as described by Dr.
+Livingstone on pp. 56-57, `Missionary Travels and Researches in
+South Africa' (Murray's edition of 1868).  The points of
+disagreement are many, and such as to make it entirely improbable
+that this fly is the true tsetse, though my men unanimously
+stated that its bite was fatal to horses as well as to donkeys.
+A descriptive abstract of the tsetse would read thus: "Not much
+larger than a common house-fly, nearly of the same brown colour as
+the honey-bee.  After-part of the body has yellow bars across it.
+It has a peculiar buzz, and its bite is death to the horse, ox,
+and dog.  On man the bite has no effect, neither has it on wild
+animals.  When allowed to feed on the hand, it inserts the middle
+prong of three portions into which the proboscis divides, it then
+draws the prong out a little way, and it assumes a crimson colour
+as the mandibles come into brisk operation; a slight itching
+irritation follows the bite."
+
+The fly which I had under inspection is called mabunga by the
+natives.  It is much larger than the common housefly, fully a
+third larger than the common honey-bee, and its colour more
+distinctly marked; its head is black, with a greenish gloss to
+it; the after-part of the body is marked by a white line running
+lengthwise from its junction with the trunk, and on each side of
+this white line are two other lines, one of a crimson colour, the
+other of a light brown.  As for its buzz, there is no peculiarity
+in it, it might be mistaken for that of a honey-bee.  When caught
+it made desperate efforts to get away, but never attempted to bite.
+This fly, along with a score of others, attacked my grey horse,
+and bit it so sorely in the legs that they appeared as if bathed
+in blood.  Hence, I might have been a little vengeful if, with more
+than the zeal of an entomologist, I caused it to disclose whatever
+peculiarities its biting parts possessed.
+
+In order to bring this fly as life-like as possible before my
+readers, I may compare its head to most tiny miniature of an
+elephant's, because it has a black proboscis and a pair of horny
+antennae, which in colour and curve resemble tusks.  The black
+proboscis, however, the simply a hollow sheath, which encloses,
+when not in the act of biting, four reddish and sharp lancets.
+Under the microscope these four lancets differ in thickness, two
+are very thick, the third is slender, but the fourth, of an opal
+colour and almost transparent, is exceedingly fine.  This last must
+be the sucker.  When the fly is about to wound, the two horny
+antennae are made to embrace the part, the lancets are unsheathed,
+and on the instant the incision is performed.  This I consider
+to be the African "horse-fly.'
+
+The second fly, which sang the tenor notes more nearly resembled
+in size and description the tsetse.  It was exceedingly nimble,
+and it occupied three soldiers nearly an hour to capture a specimen;
+and, when it was finally caught, it stung most ravenously the hand,
+and never ceased its efforts to attack until it was pinned through.
+It had three or four white marks across the after-part of its body;
+but the biting parts of this fly consisted of two black antennae
+and an opal coloured style, which folded away under the neck.  When
+about to bite, this style was shot out straight, and the antennae
+embraced it closely.  After death the fly lost its distinctive white
+marks.  Only one of this species did we see at this camp.  The third
+fly, called "chufwa," pitched a weak alto-crescendo note, was a
+third larger than the house fly, and had long wings.  If this insect
+sang the feeblest note, it certainly did the most work, and
+inflicted the most injury.  Horses and donkeys streamed with blood,
+and reared and kicked through the pain.  So determined was it not
+to be driven before it obtained its fill, that it was easily
+despatched; but this dreadful enemy to cattle constantly
+increased in numbers.  The three species above named are, according
+to natives, fatal to cattle; and this may perhaps be the reason
+why such a vast expanse of first-class pasture is without domestic
+cattle of any kind, a few goats only being kept by the villagers.
+This fly I subsequently found to be the "tsetse."
+
+On the second morning, instead of proceeding, I deemed it more
+prudent to await the fourth caravan.  Burton experimented
+sufficiently for me on the promised word of the Banyans of Kaole
+and Zanzibar, and waited eleven months before he received the
+promised articles.  As I did not expect to be much over that time
+on my errand altogether, it would be ruin, absolute and irremediable,
+should I be detained at Unyanyembe so long a time by my caravan.
+Pending its arrival, I sought the pleasures of the chase.  I was
+but a tyro in hunting, I confess, though I had shot a little on the
+plains of America and Persia; yet I considered myself a fair shot,
+and on game ground, and within a reasonable proximity to game, I
+doubted not but I could bring some to camp.
+
+After a march of a mile through the tall grass of the open, we
+gained the glades between the jungles.  Unsuccessful here, after
+ever so much prying into fine hiding-places and lurking corners,
+I struck a trail well traversed by small antelope and hartebeest,
+which we followed.  It led me into a jungle, and down a watercourse
+bisecting it; but, after following it for an hour, I lost it,
+and, in endeavouring to retrace it, lost my way.  However, my
+pocket-compass stood me in good stead; and by it I steered for
+the open plain, in the centre of which stood the camp.  But it was
+terribly hard work--this of plunging through an African jungle,
+ruinous to clothes, and trying to the cuticle.  In order to travel
+quickly, I had donned a pair of flannel pyjamas, and my feet were
+encased in canvas shoes.  As might be expected, before I had gone
+a few paces a branch of the acacia horrida--only one of a
+hundred such annoyances--caught the right leg of my pyjamas at the
+knee, and ripped it almost clean off; succeeding which a stumpy
+kolquall caught me by the shoulder, and another rip was the
+inevitable consequence.  A few yards farther on, a prickly aloetic
+plant disfigured by a wide tear the other leg of my pyjamas, and
+almost immediately I tripped against a convolvulus strong as
+ratline, and was made to measure my length on a bed of thorns.
+It was on all fours, like a hound on a scent, that I was compelled
+to travel; my solar topee getting the worse for wear every minute;
+my skin getting more and more wounded; my clothes at each step
+becoming more and more tattered.  Besides these discomforts, there
+was a pungent, acrid plant which, apart from its strong odorous
+emissions, struck me smartly on the face, leaving a burning effect
+similar to cayenne; and the atmosphere, pent in by the density
+of the jungle, was hot and stifling, and the perspiration transuded
+through every pore, making my flannel tatters feel as if I had
+been through a shower.  When I had finally regained the plain, and
+could breathe free, I mentally vowed that the penetralia of an
+African jungle should not be visited by me again, save under most
+urgent necessity.
+
+The second and third day passed without any news of Maganga.
+Accordingly, Shaw and Bombay were sent to hurry him up by all
+means.  On the fourth morning Shaw and Bombay returned, followed
+by the procrastinating Maganga and his laggard people.  Questions
+only elicited an excuse that his men had been too sick, and he had
+feared to tax their strength before they were quite equal to stand
+the fatigue.  Moreover he suggested that as they would be compelled
+to stay one day more at the camp, I might push on to Kingaru and
+camp there, until his arrival.  Acting upon which suggestion I broke
+camp and started for Kingaru, distant five miles.
+
+On this march the land was more broken, and the caravan first
+encountered jungle, which gave considerable trouble to our cart.
+Pisolitic limestone cropped out in boulders and sheets, and we
+began to imagine ourselves approaching healthy highlands, and as
+if to give confirmation to the thought, to the north and north-west
+loomed the purple cones of Udoe, and topmost of all Dilima Peak,
+about 1,500 feet in height above the sea level.  But soon after
+sinking into a bowl-like valley, green with tall corn, the road
+slightly deviated from north-west to west, the country still
+rolling before us in wavy undulations.
+
+In one of the depressions between these lengthy land-swells stood
+the village of Kingaru, with surroundings significant in their
+aspect of ague and fever.  Perhaps the clouds surcharged with rain,
+and the overhanging ridges and their dense forests dulled by the
+gloom, made the place more than usually disagreeable, but my
+first impressions of the sodden hollow, pent in by those dull
+woods, with the deep gully close by containing pools of stagnant
+water, were by no means agreeable.
+
+Before we could arrange our camp and set the tents up, down poured
+the furious harbinger of the Masika season in torrents sufficient
+to damp the ardor and newborn love for East Africa I had lately
+manifested.  However, despite rain, we worked on until our camp was
+finished and the property was safely stored from weather and thieves,
+and we could regard with resignation the raindrops beating the soil
+into mud of a very tenacious kind, and forming lakelets and rivers
+of our camp-ground.
+
+Towards night, the scene having reached its acme of unpleasantness,
+the rain ceased, and the natives poured into camp from the villages
+in the woods with their vendibles.  Foremost among these, as if in
+duty bound, came the village sultan--lord, chief, or head--bearing
+three measures of matama and half a measure of rice, of which he
+begged, with paternal smiles, my acceptance.  But under his
+smiling mask, bleared eyes, and wrinkled front was visible the soul
+of trickery, which was of the cunningest kind.  Responding under
+the same mask adopted by this knavish elder, I said, "The chief of
+Kingaru has called me a rich sultan.  If I am a rich sultan why
+comes not the chief with a rich present to me, that he might get
+a rich return?"  Said he, with another leer of his wrinkled visage,
+"Kingaru is poor, there is no matama in the village."  To which I
+replied that since there was no matama in the village I would pay
+him half a shukka, or a yard of cloth, which would be exactly
+equivalent to his present; that if he preferred to call his small
+basketful a present, I should be content to call my yard of cloth
+a present.  With which logic he was fain to be satisfied.
+
+April 1st.--To-day the Expedition suffered a loss in the death of
+the grey Arab horse presented by Seyd Burghash, Sultan of Zanzibar.
+The night previous I had noticed that the horse was suffering.
+Bearing in mind what has been so frequently asserted, namely, that
+no horses could live in the interior of Africa because of the tsetse,
+I had him opened, and the stomach, which I believed to be diseased,
+examined.  Besides much undigested matama and grass there were found
+twenty-five short, thick, white worms, sticking like leeches into
+the coating of the stomach, while the intestines were almost alive
+with the numbers of long white worms.  I was satisfied that neither
+man nor beast could long exist with such a mass of corrupting life
+within him.
+
+In order that the dead carcase might not taint the valley, I had
+it buried deep in the ground, about a score of yards from the
+encampment.  From such a slight cause ensued a tremendous uproar
+from Kingaru--chief of the village--who, with his brother-chiefs of
+neighbouring villages, numbering in the aggregate two dozen wattled
+huts, had taken counsel upon the best means of mulcting the Musungu
+of a full doti or two of Merikani, and finally had arrived at the
+conviction that the act of burying a dead horse in their soil without
+"By your leave, sir," was a grievous and fineable fault.  Affecting
+great indignation at the unpardonable omission, he, Kingaru,
+concluded to send to the Musungu four of his young men to say to him
+that "since you have buried your horse in my ground, it is well; let
+him remain there; but you must pay me two doti of Merikani."  For
+reply the messengers were told to say to the chief that I would
+prefer talking the matter over with himself face to face, if he would
+condescend to visit me in my tent once again.  As the village was but
+a stone's throw from our encampment, before many minutes had elapsed
+the wrinkled elder made his appearance at the door of my tent with
+about half the village behind him.
+
+The following dialogue which took place will serve to illustrate
+the tempers of the people with whom I was about to have a year's
+trading intercourse:
+
+White Man.--"Are you the great chief of Kingaru?"
+
+Kingaru.--"Huh-uh.  Yes."
+
+W. M.--"The great, great chief?"
+
+Kingaru.--"Huh-uh.  Yes."
+
+W. M.--" How many soldiers have you?"
+
+Kingaru.--" Why?"
+
+W. M.--"How many fighting men have you?"
+
+Kingaru.--"None."
+
+W. M.--"Oh! I thought you might have a thousand men with you, by
+your going to fine a strong white man, who has plenty of guns and
+soldiers, two doti for burying a dead horse."
+
+Kingaru (rather perplexed).--" No; I have no soldiers.  I have only
+a few young men,"
+
+W. M.--"Why do you come and make trouble, then?"
+
+Kingaru.--"It was not I; it was my brothers who said to me, `Come
+here, come here, Kingaru, see what the white man has done!  Has he
+not taken possession of your soil, in that he has put his horse
+into your ground without your permission?  Come, go to him and see
+by what right.'  Therefore have I come to ask you, who gave you
+permission to use my soil for a burying-ground?"
+
+W. M.  "I want no man's permission to do what is right.  My
+horse died; had I left him to fester and stink in your valley,
+sickness would visit your village, your water would become
+unwholesome, and caravans would not stop here for trade; for
+they would say, `This is an unlucky spot, let us go away.'  But
+enough said: I understand you to say that you do not want him
+buried in your ground; the error I have fallen into is easily put
+right.  This minute my soldiers shall dig him out again, and cover
+up the soil as it was before; and the horse shall be left where he
+died." (Then shouting to Bombay.) "Ho! Bombay, take soldiers
+with jembes to dig my horse out of the ground, drag him to where
+he died, and make everything ready for a march to-morrow morning."
+
+Kingaru, his voice considerably higher, and his head moving to and
+fro with emotion, cries out, "Akuna, akuna, bana!"--"No, no,
+master!  Let not the white man get angry.  The horse is dead, and
+now lies buried; let him remain so, since he is already there,
+and let us be friends again."
+
+The Sheikh of Kingaru being thus brought to his senses, we bid each
+other the friendly "Kwaheri," and I was left alone to ruminate
+over my loss.  Barely half an hour had elapsed, it was 9 P.M.,
+the camp was in a semi-doze, when I heard deep groans issuing from
+one of the animals.  Upon inquiry as to what animal was suffering,
+I was surprised to hear that it was my bay horse.  With a
+bull's-eye lantern, I visited him, and perceived that the pain was
+located in the stomach, but whether it was from some poisonous
+plant he had eaten while out grazing, or from some equine disease,
+I did not know.  He discharged copious quantities of loose matter,
+but there was nothing peculiar in its colour.  The pain was
+evidently very great, for his struggles were very violent.  I was up
+all night, hoping that it was but a temporary effect of some strange
+and noxious plant; but at 6 o'clock the next morning, after a short
+period of great agony, he also died; exactly fifteen hours after his
+companion.  When the stomach was opened, it was found that death
+was caused by the internal rupture of a large cancer, which had
+affected the larger half of the coating of his stomach, and had
+extended an inch or two up the larynx.  The contents of the stomach
+and intestines were deluged with the yellow viscous efflux from the
+cancer.
+
+I was thus deprived of both my horses, and that within the short
+space of fifteen hours.  With my limited knowledge of veterinary
+science, however, strengthened by the actual and positive proofs
+obtained by the dissection of the two stomachs, I can scarcely
+state that horses can live to reach Unyanyembe, or that they can
+travel with ease through this part of East Africa.  But should I
+have occasion at some future day, I should not hesitate to take
+four horses with me, though I should certainly endeavour to
+ascertain previous to purchase whether they, were perfectly sound
+and healthy, and to those travellers who cherish a good horse I
+would say, "Try one," and be not discouraged by my unfortunate
+experiences.
+
+The 1st, 2nd, and 3rd of April passed, and nothing had we heard
+or seen of the ever-lagging fourth caravan.  In the meanwhile
+the list of casualties was being augmented.  Besides the loss
+of this precious time, through the perverseness of the chief
+of the other caravan, and the loss of my two horses, a pagazi
+carrying boat-fixtures improved the opportunity, and deserted.
+Selim was struck down with a severe attack of ague and fever,
+and was soon after followed by the cook, then by the assistant cook
+and tailor, Abdul Kader.  Finally, before the third day was over,
+Bombay had rheumatism, Uledi (Grant's old valet) had a swollen
+throat, Zaidi had the flux, Kingaru had the mukunguru; Khamisi,
+a pagazi, suffered from a weakness of the loins; Farjalla had a
+bilious fever; and before night closed Makoviga was very ill.
+Out of a force of twenty-five men one had deserted, and ten were
+on the sick list, and the presentiment that the ill-looking
+neighbourhood of Kingaru would prove calamitous to me was verified.
+
+On the 4th April Maganga and his people appeared, after being
+heralded by musketry-shots and horn-blowing, the usual signs of an
+approaching caravan in this land.  His sick men were considerably
+improved, but they required one more day of rest at Kingaru.  In
+the afternoon he came to lay siege to my generosity, by giving
+details of Soor Hadji Palloo's heartless cheats upon him; but I
+informed him, that since I had left Bagamoyo, I could no longer be
+generous; we were now in a land where cloth was at a high premium;
+that I had no more cloth than I should need to furnish food for
+myself and men; that he and his caravan had cost me more money
+and trouble than any three caravans I had, as indeed was the case.
+With this counter-statement he was obliged to be content.  But I
+again solved his pecuniary doubts by promising that, if he hurried
+his caravan on to Unyanyembe, be should have no cause of complaint.
+
+The 5th of April saw the fourth caravan vanish for once in our
+front, with a fair promise that, however fast we should follow,
+we should not see them the hither side of Sinbamwenni.
+
+The following morning, in order to rouse my people from the
+sickened torpitude they had lapsed into, I beat an exhilarating
+alarum on a tin pan with an iron ladle, intimating that a sofari
+was about to be undertaken.  This had a very good effect, judging
+from the extraordinary alacrity with which it was responded to.
+Before the sun rose we started.  The Kingaru villagers were out
+with the velocity of hawks for any rags or refuse left behind us.
+
+The long march to Imbiki, fifteen miles, proved that our protracted
+stay at Kingaru had completely demoralized my soldiers and
+pagazis.  Only a few of them had strength enough to reach Imbiki
+before night.  The others, attending the laden donkeys, put in an
+appearance next morning, in a lamentable state of mind and body.
+Khamisi--the pagazi with the weak loins--had deserted, taking with
+him two goats, the property tent, and the whole of Uledi's
+personal wealth, consisting of his visiting dish-dasheh--a long
+shirt of the Arabic pattern, 10 lbs.  of beads, and a few fine
+cloths, which Uledi, in a generous fit, had intrusted to him, while
+he carried the pagazi's load, 70 lbs. of Bubu beads.  This
+defalcation was not to be overlooked, nor should Khamisi be
+permitted to return without an effort to apprehend him.  Accordingly
+Uledi and Ferajji were despatched in pursuit while we rested at
+Imbiki, in order to give the dilapidated soldiers and animals time
+to recruit.
+
+On the 8th we continued our journey, and arrived at Msuwa.  This
+march will be remembered by our caravan as the most fatiguing of all,
+though the distance was but ten miles.  It was one continuous jungle,
+except three interjacent glades of narrow limits, which gave us
+three breathing pauses in the dire task of jungle travelling.  The
+odour emitted from its fell plants was so rank, so pungently acrid,
+and the miasma from its decayed vegetation so dense, that I expected
+every moment to see myself and men drop down in paroxysms of acute
+fever.  Happily this evil was not added to that of loading and
+unloading the frequently falling packs.  Seven soldiers to attend
+seventeen laden donkeys were entirely too small a number while passing
+through a jungle; for while the path is but a foot wide, with a
+wall of thorny plants and creepers bristling on each side, and
+projecting branches darting across it, with knots of spikey twigs
+stiff as spike-nails, ready to catch and hold anything above four
+feet in height, it is but reasonable to suppose that donkeys
+standing four feet high, with loads measuring across from bale to
+bale four feet, would come to grief.  This grief was of frequent
+recurrence here, causing us to pause every few minutes for
+re-arrangements.  So often had this task to be performed, that the
+men got perfectly discouraged, and had to bespoken to sharply
+before they set to work.  By the time I reached Msuwa there was
+nobody with me and the ten donkeys I drove but Mabruk the Little,
+who, though generally stolid, stood to his work like a man.
+Bombay and Uledi were far behind, with the most jaded donkeys.
+Shaw was in charge of the cart, and his experiences were most
+bitter, as he informed me he had expended a whole vocabulary of
+stormy abuse known to sailors, and a new one which he had invented
+ex tempore.  He did not arrive until two o'clock next morning, and
+was completely worn out.
+
+Another halt was fixed at Msuwa, that we and our animals might
+recuperate.  The chief of the village, a white man in everything
+but colour, sent me and mine the fattest broad-tailed sheep of his
+flock, with five measures of matama grain.  The mutton was
+excellent, unapproachable.  For his timely and needful present
+I gave him two doti, and amused him with an exhibition of the
+wonderful mechanism of the Winchester rifle, and my breechloading
+revolvers.
+
+He and his people were intelligent enough to comprehend the utility
+of these weapons at an emergency, and illustrated in expressive
+pantomime the powers they possessed against numbers of people
+armed only with spears and bows, by extending their arms with an
+imaginary gun and describing a clear circle.  "Verily," said
+they, "the Wasungu are far wiser than the Washensi.  What heads
+they have!  What wonderful things they make!  Look at their
+tents, their guns, their time-pieces, their clothes, and that
+little rolling thing (the cart) which carries more than five
+men,---que!"
+
+On the 10th, recovered from the excessive strain of the last march,
+the caravan marched out of Msuwa, accompanied by the hospitable
+villagers as far as their stake defence, receiving their unanimous
+"Kwaheris."  Outside the village the march promised to be less
+arduous than between Imbiki and Msuwa.  After crossing a beautiful
+little plain intersected by a dry gully or mtoni, the route led by
+a few cultivated fields, where the tillers greeted us with one grand
+unwinking stare, as if fascinated.
+
+Soon after we met one of those sights common in part of the world,
+to wit a chain slave-gang, bound east.  The slaves did not appear to
+be in any way down-hearted on the contrary, they seemed imbued with
+the philosophic jollity of the jolly servant of Martin Chuzzlewit.
+Were it not for their chains, it would have been difficult to discover
+master from slave; the physiognomic traits were alike--the mild
+benignity with which we were regarded was equally visible on all faces.
+The chains were ponderous--they might have held elephants captive;
+but as the slaves carried nothing but themselves, their weight could
+not have been insupportable.
+
+The jungle was scant on this march, and though in some places the
+packs met with accidents, they were not such as seriously to
+retard progress.  By 10 A.M. we were in camp in the midst of an
+imposing view of green sward and forest domed by a cloudless sky.
+We had again pitched our camp in the wilderness, and, as is the
+custom of caravans, fired two shots to warn any Washensi having
+grain to sell, that we were willing to trade.
+
+Our next halting-place was Kisemo, distant but eleven miles from
+Msuwa, a village situated in a populous district, having in its
+vicinity no less than five other villages, each fortified by
+stakes and thorny abattis, with as much fierce independence as if
+their petty lords were so many Percys and Douglasses.  Each
+topped a ridge, or a low hummock, with an assumption of defiance of
+the cock-on-its-own-dunghill type.  Between these humble eminences
+and low ridges of land wind narrow vales which are favored with the
+cultivation of matama and Indian corn.  Behind the village flows
+the Ungerengeri River, an impetuous stream during the Masika
+season, capable of overflowing its steep banks, but in the dry
+season it subsides into its proper status, which is that of a small
+stream of very clear sweet water.  Its course from Kisemo is
+south-west, then easterly ; it is the main feeder of the Kingani
+River.
+
+The belles of Kisemo are noted for their vanity in brass wire,
+which is wound in spiral rings round their wrists and ankles, and
+the varieties of style which their hispid heads exhibit; while
+their poor lords, obliged to be contented with dingy torn clouts
+and split ears, show what wide sway Asmodeus holds over this
+terrestrial sphere--for it must have been an unhappy time when the
+hard-besieged husbands finally gave way before their spouses.
+Besides these brassy ornaments on their extremities, and the
+various hair-dressing styles, the women of Kisemo frequently wear
+lengthy necklaces, which run in rivers of colours down their
+bodies.
+
+A more comical picture is seldom presented than that of one of
+these highly-dressed females engaged in the homely and necessary
+task of grinding corn for herself and family.  The grinding
+apparatus consists of two portions: one, a thick pole of hard wood
+about six feet long, answering for a pestle; the other, a
+capacious wooden mortar, three feet in height.
+
+While engaged in setting his tent, Shaw was obliged to move a small
+flat stone, to drive a peg into the ground.  The village chief, who
+saw him do it, rushed up in a breathless fashion, and replaced the
+stone instantly, then stood on it in an impressive manner,
+indicative of the great importance attached to that stone and
+location.  Bombay, seeing Shaw standing in silent wonder at the
+act, volunteered to ask the chief what was the matter.  The Sheikh
+solemnly answered, with a finger pointing downward, "Uganga!"
+Whereupon I implored him to let me see what was under the stone.
+With a graciousness quite affecting he complied.  My curiosity was
+gratified with the sight of a small whittled stick, which pinned
+fast to the ground an insect, the cause of a miscarriage to a young
+female of the village.
+
+During the afternoon, Uledi and Ferajji, who had been despatched
+after the truant Khamisi, returned with him and all the missing
+articles.  Khamisi, soon after leaving the road and plunging into
+the jungle, where he was mentally triumphing in his booty, was met
+by some of the plundering Washensi, who are always on the qui vive
+for stragglers, and unceremoniously taken to their village in the
+woods, and bound to a tree preparatory, to being killed.  Khamisi
+said that he asked them why they tied him up, to which they answered,
+that they were about to kill him, because he was a Mgwana, whom they
+were accustomed to kill as soon as they were caught.  But Uledi and
+Ferajji shortly after coming upon the scene, both well armed, put
+an end to the debates upon Khamisi's fate, by claiming him as
+an absconding pagazi from the Musungu's camp, as well as all the
+articles he possessed at the time of capture.  The robbers did not
+dispute the claim for the pagazi, goats, tent, or any other
+valuable found with him, but intimated that they deserved a reward
+for apprehending him.  The demand being considered just, a reward
+to the extent of two doti and a fundo, or ten necklaces of beads,
+was given.
+
+Khamisi, for his desertion and attempted robbery, could not be
+pardoned without first suffering punishment.  He had asked at
+Bagamoyo, before enlisting in my service, an advance of $5 in
+money, and had received it, and a load of Bubu beads, no heavier
+than a pagazis load, had been given him to carry; he had,
+therefore, no excuse for desertion.  Lest I should overstep
+prudence, however, in punishing him, I convened a court of eight
+pagazis and four soldiers to sit in judgment, and asked them to
+give me their decision as to what should be done.  Their unanimous
+verdict was that he was guilty of a crime almost unknown among the
+Wanyamwezi pagazis, and as it was likely to give bad repute to the
+Wanyamwezi carriers, they therefore sentenced him to be flogged
+with the "Great Master's" donkey whip, which was accordingly
+carried out, to poor Khamisi's crying sorrow.
+
+On the 12th the caravan reached Mussoudi, on the Ungerengeri river.
+Happily for our patient donkeys this march was free from all the
+annoying troubles of the jungle.  Happily for ourselves also, for
+we had no more the care of the packs and the anxiety about
+arriving at camp before night.  The packs once put firmly on the
+backs of our good donkeys, they marched into camp--the road being
+excellent--without a single displacement or cause for one impatient
+word, soon after leaving Kisemo.  A beautiful prospect, glorious in
+its wild nature, fragrant with its numerous flowers and variety of
+sweetly-smelling shrubs, among which I recognised the wild sage,
+the indigo plant, &c., terminated only at the foot of Kira Peak
+and sister cones, which mark the boundaries between Udoe and Ukami,
+yet distant twenty miles.  Those distant mountains formed a not
+unfit background to this magnificent picture of open plain, forest
+patches, and sloping lawns--there was enough of picturesqueness and
+sublimity in the blue mountains to render it one complete whole.
+Suppose a Byron saw some of these scenes, he would be inclined to
+poetize in this manner:
+
+Morn dawns, and with it stern Udoe's hills,
+Dark Urrugum's rocks, and Kira's peak,
+Robed half in mist, bedewed with various rills,
+Arrayed in many a dun and purple streak.
+
+When drawing near the valley of Ungerengeri, granite knobs and
+protuberances of dazzling quartz showed their heads above the
+reddish soil.  Descending the ridge where these rocks were
+prominent, we found ourselves in the sable loam deposit of the
+Ungerengeri, and in the midst of teeming fields of sugar-cane and
+matama, Indian corn, muhogo, and gardens of curry, egg, and
+cucumber plants.  On the banks of the Ungerengeri flourished the
+banana, and overtopping it by seventy feet and more, shot up the
+stately mparamusi, the rival in beauty of the Persian chenar and
+Abyssinian plane.  Its trunk is straight and comely enough for the
+mainmast of a first, class frigate, while its expanding crown of
+leafage is distinguished from all others by its density and vivid
+greenness.  There were a score of varieties of the larger kind of
+trees, whose far-extending branches embraced across the narrow but
+swift river.  The depressions of the valley and the immediate
+neighbourhood of the river were choked with young forests of
+tiger-grass and stiff reeds.
+
+Mussoudi is situated on a higher elevation than the average level
+of the village, and consequently looks down upon its neighbours,
+which number a hundred and more.  It is the western extremity of
+Ukwere.  On the western bank of the Ungerengeri the territory of
+the Wakami commences.  We had to halt one day at Mussoudi because
+the poverty of the people prevented us from procuring the needful
+amount of grain.  The cause of this scantiness in such a fertile
+and populous valley was, that the numerous caravans which had
+preceded us had drawn heavily for their stores for the upmarches.
+
+On the 14th we crossed the Ungerengeri, which here flows southerly
+to the southern extremity of the valley, where it bends easterly
+as far as Kisemo.  After crossing the river here, fordable at all
+times and only twenty yards in breadth, we had another mile of
+the valley with its excessively moist soil and rank growth of
+grass.  It then ascended into a higher elevation, and led through
+a forest of mparamusi, tamarind, tamarisk, acacia, and the blooming
+mimosa.  This ascent was continued for two hours, when we stood
+upon the spine of the largest ridge, where we could obtain free
+views of the wooded plain below and the distant ridges of Kisemo,
+which we had but lately left.  A descent of a few hundred feet
+terminated in a deep but dry mtoni with a sandy bed, on the other
+side of which we had to regain the elevation we had lost, and a
+similar country opened into view until we found a newly-made boma
+with well-built huts of grass rear a pool of water, which we at
+once occupied as a halting-place for the night.  The cart gave us
+considerable trouble; not even our strongest donkey, though it
+carried with ease on its back 196 lbs., could draw the cart with
+a load of only 225 lbs. weight.
+
+Early on the morning of the 15th we broke camp and started for
+Mikeseh.  By 8.30 A.M. we were ascending the southern face of the
+Kira Peak.  When we had gained the height of two hundred feet above
+the level of the surrounding country, we were gratified with a
+magnificent view of a land whose soil knows no Sabbath.
+
+After travelling the spine of a ridge abutting against the southern
+slope of Kira we again descended into the little valley of
+Kiwrima, the first settlement we meet in Udoe, where there is
+always an abundant supply of water.  Two miles west of Kiwrima is
+Mikiseh.
+
+On the 16th we reached Ulagalla after a few hours' march.
+Ulagalla is the name of a district, or a portion of a district,
+lying between the mountains of Uruguru, which bound it southerly,
+and the mountains of Udoe, lying northerly and parallel with them,
+and but ten miles apart.  The principal part of the basin thus
+formed is called Ulagalla.
+
+Muhalleh is the next settlement, and here we found ourselves in
+the territory of the Waseguhha.  On this march we were hemmed in
+by mountains--on our left by those of Uruguru, on our right by
+those of Udoe and Useguhha--a most agreeable and welcome change to
+us after the long miles of monotonous level we had hitherto seen.
+When tired of looking into the depths of the forest that still ran
+on either side of the road, we had but to look up to the mountain's
+base, to note its strange trees, its plants and vari-coloured flowers,
+we had but to raise our heads to vary this pleasant occupation by
+observing the lengthy and sinuous spine of the mountains, and
+mentally report upon their outline, their spurs, their projections
+and ravines, their bulging rocks and deep clefts, and, above all,
+the dark green woods clothing them from summit to base.  And when
+our attention was not required for the mundane task of regarding
+the donkeys' packs, or the pace of the cautious-stepping pagazis,
+it was gratifying to watch the vapours play about the mountain
+summits--to see them fold into fleecy crowns and fantastic clusters,
+dissolve, gather together into a pall that threatened rain, and sail
+away again before the brightening sun.
+
+At Muhalleh was the fourth caravan under Maganga with three more
+sick men, who turned with eager eyes to myself, "the dispenser of
+medicine," as I approached.  Salvos of small arms greeted me, and
+a present of rice and ears of Indian corn for roasting were awaiting
+my acceptance; but, as I told Maganga, I would have preferred to
+hear that his party were eight or ten marches ahead.  At this
+camp, also, we met Salim bin Rashid, bound eastward, with a huge
+caravan carrying three hundred ivory tusks.  This good Arab,
+besides welcoming the new comer with a present of rice, gave me
+news of Livingstone.  He had met the old traveller at Ujiji, had
+lived in the next but to him for two weeks, described him as
+looking old, with long grey moustaches and beard, just recovered
+from severe illness, looking very wan; when fully recovered
+Livingstone intended to visit a country called Manyema by way of
+Marungu.
+
+The valley of the Ungerengeri with Muhalleh exhibits wonderful
+fertility.  Its crops of matama were of the tallest, and its
+Indian corn would rival the best crops ever seen in the Arkansas
+bottoms.  The numerous mountain-fed streams rendered the great
+depth of loam very sloppy, in consequence of which several
+accidents occurred before we reached the camp, such as wetting
+cloth, mildewing tea, watering sugar, and rusting tools;
+but prompt attention to these necessary things saved us from
+considerable loss.
+
+There was a slight difference noticed in the demeanour and bearing
+of the Waseguhha compared with the Wadoe, Wakami, and Wakwere
+heretofore seen.  There was none of that civility we had been
+until now pleased to note: their express desire to barter was
+accompanied with insolent hints that we ought to take their produce
+at their own prices.  If we remonstrated they became angry;
+retorting fiercely, impatient of opposition, they flew into
+a passion, and were glib in threats.  This strange conduct, so
+opposite to that of the calm and gentle Wakwere, may be excellently
+illustrated by comparing the manner of the hot-headed Greek with
+that of the cool and collected German.  Necessity compelled us
+to purchase eatables of them, and, to the credit of the country
+and its productions, be it said, their honey had the peculiar
+flavour of that of famed Hymettus.
+
+Following the latitudinal valley of the Ungerengeri, within two
+hours on the following morning we passed close under the wall of
+the capital of Useguhha--Simbamwenni.  The first view of the
+walled town at the western foot of the Uruguru mountains, with its
+fine valley abundantly beautiful, watered by two rivers, and
+several pellucid streams of water distilled by the dew and
+cloud-enriched heights around, was one that we did not anticipate
+to meet in Eastern Africa.  In Mazanderan, Persia, such a scene
+would have answered our expectations, but here it was totally
+unexpected.  The town may contain a population of 3,000, having
+about 1,000 houses; being so densely crowded, perhaps 5,000 would
+more closely approximate.  The houses in the town are eminently
+African, but of the best type of construction.  The fortifications
+are on an Arabic Persic model--combining Arab neatness with Persian
+plan.  Through a ride of 950 miles in Persia I never met a town
+outside of the great cities better fortified than Simbamwenni.
+In Persia the fortifications were of mud, even those of Kasvin,
+Teheran, Ispahan, and Shiraz; those of Simbamwenni are of stone,
+pierced with two rows of loopholes for musketry.  The area of
+the town is about half a square mile, its plan being quadrangular.
+Well-built towers of stone guard each corner; four gates, one facing
+each cardinal point, and set half way between the several towers,
+permit ingress and egress for its inhabitants.  The gates are
+closed with solid square doors made of African teak, and carved
+with the infinitesimally fine and complicated devices of the Arabs,
+from which I suspect that the doors were made either at Zanzibar
+or on the coast, and conveyed to Simbamwenni plank by plank;
+yet as there is much communication between Bagamoyo and Simbamwenni,
+it is just possible that native artisans are the authors of this
+ornate workmanship, as several doors chiselled and carved in the
+same manner, though not quite so elaborately, were visible in the
+largest houses.  The palace of the Sultan is after the style of
+those on the coast, with long sloping roof, wide eaves, and
+veranda in front.
+
+The Sultana is the eldest daughter of the famous Kisabengo, a name
+infamous throughout the neighbouring countries of Udoe, Ukami,
+Ukwere, Kingaru, Ukwenni, and Kiranga-Wanna, for his kidnapping
+propensities.  Kisabengo was another Theodore on a small scale.
+Sprung from humble ancestry, he acquired distinction for his
+personal strength, his powers of harangue, and his amusing and
+versatile address, by which he gained great ascendency over
+fugitive slaves, and was chosen a leader among them.  Fleeing
+from justice, which awaited him at the hands of the Zanzibar Sultan,
+he arrived in Ukami, which extended at that time from Ukwere to
+Usagara, and here he commenced a career of conquest, the result
+of which was the cession by the Wakami of an immense tract of
+fertile country, in the valley of the Ungerengeri.  On its most
+desirable site, with the river flowing close under the walls,
+he built his capital, and called it Simbamwenni, which means
+"The Lion," or the strongest, City.  In old age the successful
+robber and kidnapper changed his name of Kisabengo, which had
+gained such a notoriety, to Simbamwenni, after his town; and when
+dying, after desiring that his eldest daughter should succeed him,
+he bestowed the name of the town upon her also, which name of
+Simbamwenni the Sultana now retains and is known by.
+
+While crossing a rapid stream, which, as I said before flowed close
+to the walls, the inhabitants of Simbamwenni had a fine chance of
+gratifying their curiosity of seeing the "Great Musungu," whose
+several caravans had preceded him, and who unpardonably, because
+unlicensed, had spread a report of his great wealth and power.
+I was thus the object of a universal stare.  At one time on the
+banks there were considerably over a thousand natives going
+through the several tenses and moods of the verb "to stare,"
+or exhibiting every phase of the substantive, viz.--the stare
+peremptory, insolent, sly, cunning, modest, and casual.  The
+warriors of the Sultana, holding in one hand the spear, the bow,
+and sheaf or musket, embraced with the other their respective
+friends, like so many models of Nisus and Euryalus, Theseus
+and Pirithous, Damon and Pythias, or Achilles and Patroclus,
+to whom they confidentially related their divers opinions upon
+my dress and colour.  The words "Musungu kuba" had as much charm
+for these people as the music of the Pied Piper had for the rats
+of Hamelin, since they served to draw from within the walls across
+their stream so large a portion of the population; and when I
+continued the journey to the Ungerengeri, distant four miles,
+I feared that the Hamelin catastrophe might have to be repeated
+before I could rid myself of them.  But fortunately for my peace
+of mind, they finally proved vincible under the hot sun, and the
+distance we had to go to camp.
+
+As we were obliged to overhaul the luggage, and repair saddles, as
+well as to doctor a few of the animals, whose backs had by this
+time become very sore, I determined to halt here two days.
+Provisions were very plentiful also at Simbamwenni, though
+comparatively dear.
+
+On the second day I was, for the first time, made aware that my
+acclimatization in the ague-breeding swamps of Arkansas was
+powerless against the mukunguru of East Africa.  The premonitory
+symptoms of the African type were felt in my system at 10 A.M.
+First, general lassitude prevailed, with a disposition to
+drowsiness; secondly, came the spinal ache which, commencing from
+the loins, ascended the vertebrae, and extended around the ribs,
+until it reached the shoulders, where it settled into a weary
+pain; thirdly came a chilliness over the whole body, which was
+quickly followed by a heavy head, swimming eyes, and throbbing
+temples, with vague vision, which distorted and transformed all
+objects of sight.  This lasted until 10 P.M., and the mukunguru
+left me, much prostrated in strength.
+
+The remedy, applied for three mornings in succession after the
+attack, was such as my experience in Arkansas had taught me was
+the most powerful corrective, viz., a quantum of fifteen grains
+of quinine, taken in three doses of five grains each, every other
+hour from dawn to meridian--the first dose to be taken immediately
+after the first effect of the purging medicine taken at bedtime the
+night previous.  I may add that this treatment was perfectly
+successful in my case, and in all others which occurred in my
+camp.  After the mukunguru had declared itself, there was no fear,
+with such a treatment of it, of a second attack, until at least
+some days afterwards.
+
+On the third day the camp was visited by the ambassadors of
+Her Highness the Sultana of Simbamwenni, who came as her
+representatives to receive the tribute which she regards herself
+as powerful enough to enforce.  But they, as well as Madame
+Simbamwenni, were informed, that as we knew it was their custom to
+charge owners of caravans but one tribute, and as they remembered
+the Musungu (Farquhar) had paid already, it was not fair that I
+should have to pay again.  The ambassadors replied with a "Ngema"
+(very well), and promised to carry my answer back to their
+mistress.  Though it was by no means "very well " in fact, as it
+will be seen in a subsequent chapter how the female Simbamwenni
+took advantage of an adverse fortune which befell me to pay
+herself.  With this I close the chapter of incidents experienced
+during our transit across the maritime region.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI.  TO UGOGO.
+
+A valley of despond, and hot-bed of malaria.--Myriads of vermin.--
+The Makata swamp.--A sorrowful experience catching a deserter.--A
+far-embracing prospect.--Illness of William Farquhar.-Lake Ugombo.--
+A land of promise.--The great Kisesa.--The plague of earwigs.
+
+
+The distance from Bagamoyo to Simbamwenni we found to be 119 miles,
+and was accomplished in fourteen marches.  But these marches, owing
+to difficulties arising from the Masika season, and more especially
+to the lagging of the fourth caravan under Maganga, extended to
+twenty-nine days, thus rendering our progress very slow indeed--
+but a little more than four miles a-day.  I infer, from what I have
+seen of the travelling, that had I not been encumbered by the sick
+Wanyamwezi porters, I could have accomplished the distance in
+sixteen days.  For it was not the donkeys that proved recreant to
+my confidence; they, poor animals, carrying a weight of 150 lbs.
+each, arrived at Simbamwenni in first-rate order; but it was
+Maganga, composed of greed and laziness, and his weakly-bodied
+tribe, who were ever falling sick.  In dry weather the number of
+marches might have been much reduced.  Of the half-dozen of Arabs
+or so who preceded this Expedition along this route, two
+accomplished the entire distance in eight days.  From the brief
+descriptions given of the country, as it day by day expanded to
+our view, enough may be gleaned to give readers a fair idea of it.
+The elevation of Simbamwenni cannot be much over 1,000 feet above
+the level, the rise of the land having been gradual.  It being
+the rainy season, about which so many ominous statements were
+doled out to us by those ignorant of the character of the country,
+we naturally saw it under its worst aspect; but, even in this
+adverse phase of it, with all its depth of black mud, its
+excessive dew, its dripping and chill grass, its density of rank
+jungle, and its fevers, I look back upon the scene with pleasure,
+for the wealth and prosperity it promises to some civilized nation,
+which in some future time will come and take possession of it.
+A railroad from Bagamoyo to Simbamwenni might be constructed with
+as much ease and rapidity as, and at far less cost than the Union
+Pacific Railway, whose rapid strides day by day towards completion
+the world heard of and admired.  A residence in this part of Africa,
+after a thorough system of drainage had been carried out, would not
+be attended with more discomfort than generally follows upon the
+occupation of new land.  The temperature at this season during the
+day never exceeded 85 degrees Fahrenheit.  The nights were pleasant--
+too cold without a pair of blankets for covering; and, as far as
+Simbamwenni, they were without that pest which is so dreadful on
+the Nebraska and Kansas prairies, the mosquito.  The only annoyances
+I know of that would tell hard on the settler is the determined
+ferocity of the mabungu, or horse-fly; the chufwa, &c., already
+described, which, until the dense forests and jungles were cleared,
+would be certain to render the keeping of domestic cattle
+unremunerative.
+
+Contrary to expectation the Expedition was not able to start at
+the end of two days; the third and the fourth days were passed
+miserably enough in the desponding valley of Ungerengeri.  This
+river, small as it is in the dry seasons, becomes of considerable
+volume and power during the Masika, as we experienced to our
+sorrow.  It serves as a drain to a score of peaks and two long
+ranges of mountains; winding along their base, it is the recipient
+of the cascades seen flashing during the few intervals of sunlight,
+of all the nullahs and ravines which render the lengthy frontage
+of the mountain slopes so rugged and irregular, until it glides
+into the valley of Simbamwenni a formidable body of water,
+opposing a serious obstacle to caravans without means to build
+bridges; added to which was an incessant downfall of rain--such a
+rain as shuts people in-doors and renders them miserable and
+unamiable--a real London rain--an eternal drizzle accompanied
+with mist and fog.  When the sun shone it appeared but a pale
+image of itself, and old pagazis, wise in their traditions
+as old whaling captains, shook their heads ominously at the
+dull spectre, and declared it was doubtful if the rain would cease
+for three weeks yet.
+
+The site of the caravan camp on the hither side of the Ungerengeri
+was a hot-bed of malaria, unpleasant to witness--an abomination to
+memory.  The filth of generations of pagazis had gathered
+innumerable hosts of creeping things.  Armies of black, white, and
+red ants infest the stricken soil; centipedes, like worms, of
+every hue, clamber over shrubs and plants; hanging to the
+undergrowth are the honey-combed nests of yellow-headed wasps with
+stings as harmful as scorpions; enormous beetles, as large as
+full-grown mice, roll dunghills over the ground; of all sorts,
+shapes, sizes, and hues are the myriad-fold vermin with which the
+ground teems; in short, the richest entomological collection could
+not vie in variety and numbers with the species which the four
+walls of my tent enclosed from morning until night.
+
+On the fifth morning, or the 23rd April, the rain gave us a few
+hours' respite, during which we managed to wade through the
+Stygian quagmire reeking with noisomeness to the inundated
+river-bank.  The soldiers commenced at 5 A.M. to convey the
+baggage across from bank to bank over a bridge which was the most
+rustic of the rustic kind.  Only an ignorant African would have
+been satisfied with its small utility as a means to cross a deep
+and rapid body of water.  Even for light-footed Wanyamwezi pagazis
+it was anything but comfortable to traverse.  Only a professional
+tight-rope performer could have carried a load across with ease.
+To travel over an African bridge requires, first, a long leap
+from land to the limb of a tree (which may or may not be covered
+by water), followed by a long jump ashore.  With 70 lbs. weight on
+his back, the carrier finds it difficult enough.  Sometimes he is
+assisted by ropes extemporized from the long convolvuli which hang
+from almost every tree, but not always, these being deemed
+superfluities by the Washensi.
+
+Fortunately the baggage was transferred without a single accident,
+and though the torrent was strong, the donkeys were dragged through
+the flood by vigorous efforts and much objurgation without a
+casualty.  This performance of crossing the Ungerengeri occupied
+fully five hours, though energy, abuse, and fury enough were
+expended for an army.
+
+Reloading and wringing our clothes dry, we set out from the
+horrible neighbourhood of the river, with its reek and filth,
+in a northerly direction, following a road which led up to easy
+and level ground.  Two obtruding hills were thus avoided on our
+left, and after passing them we had shut out the view of the
+hateful valley.
+
+I always found myself more comfortable and lighthearted while
+travelling than when chafing and fretting in camp at delays which
+no effort could avoid, and consequently I fear that some things,
+while on a march, may be tinted somewhat stronger than their
+appearance or merit may properly warrant.  But I thought that the
+view opening before us was much more agreeable than the valley of
+Simbamwenni with all its indescribable fertility.  It was a series
+of glades opening one after another between forest clumps of young
+trees, hemmed in distantly by isolated peaks and scattered
+mountains.  Now and again, as we crested low eminences we caught
+sight of the blue Usagara mountains, bounding the horizon westerly
+and northerly, and looked down upon a vast expanse of plain which
+lay between.
+
+At the foot of the lengthy slope, well-watered by bubbling
+springs and mountain rills, we found a comfortable khambi with
+well-made huts, which the natives call Simbo.  It lies just two
+hours or five miles north-west of the Ungerengeri crossing.  The
+ground is rocky, composed principally of quartzose detritus swept
+down by the constant streams.  In the neighbourhood of these grow
+bamboo, the thickest of which was about two and a half inches in
+diameter; the "myombo," a very shapely tree, with a clean trunk
+like an ash, the "imbite," with large, fleshy leaves like the
+"mtamba," sycamore, plum-tree, the "ugaza," ortamarisk, and the
+"mgungu," a tree containing several wide branches with small
+leaves clustered together in a clump, and the silk-cotton tree.
+
+Though there are no villages or settlements in view of Simbo
+Khambi, there are several clustered within the mountain folds,
+inhabited by Waseguhha somewhat prone to dishonest acts and
+murder.
+
+The long broad plain visible from the eminences crossed between
+the Ungerengeri and Simbo was now before us, and became known to
+sorrowful memory subsequently, as the Makata Valley.  The initial
+march was from Simbo, its terminus at Rehenneko, at the base of the
+Usagara mountains, six marches distant.  The valley commences with
+broad undulations, covered with young forests of bamboo, which grow
+thickly along the streams, the dwarf fan-palm, the stately Palmyra,
+and the mgungu.  These undulations soon become broken by gullies
+containing water, nourishing dense crops of cane reeds and broad-
+bladed grass, and, emerging from this district, wide savannah
+covered with tall grass open into view, with an isolated tree here
+and there agreeably breaking the monotony of the scene.  The Makata
+is a wilderness containing but one village of the Waseguhha
+throughout its broad expanse.  Venison, consequently, abounds
+within the forest clumps, and the kudu, hartebeest, antelope,
+and zebra may be seen at early dawn emerging into the open
+savannahs to feed.  At night, the cyn-hyaena prowls about with
+its hideous clamour seeking for sleeping prey, man or beast.
+
+The slushy mire of the savannahs rendered marching a work of great
+difficulty; its tenacious hold of the feet told terribly on men
+and animals.  A ten-mile march required ten hours, we were
+therefore compelled to camp in the middle of this wilderness, and
+construct a new khambi, a measure which was afterwards adopted by
+half a dozen caravans.
+
+The cart did not arrive until nearly midnight, and with it,
+besides three or four broken-down pagazis, came Bombay with the
+dolorous tale, that having put his load--consisting of the property
+tent, one large American axe, his two uniform coats, his shirts,
+beads and cloth, powder, pistol, and hatchet--on the ground, to go
+and assist the cart out of a quagmire, he had returned to the place
+where he had left it and could not find it, that he believed that
+some thieving Washensi, who always lurk in the rear of caravans to
+pick up stragglers, had decamped with it.  Which dismal tale told
+me at black midnight was not received at all graciously, but rather
+with most wrathful words, all of which the penitent captain received
+as his proper due.  Working myself into a fury,, I enumerated his
+sins to him; he had lost a goat at Muhalleh, he had permitted
+Khamisi to desert with valuable property at Imbiki; he had
+frequently shown culpable negligence in not looking after the
+donkeys, permitting them to be tied up at night without seeing that
+they had water, and in the mornings, when about to march, he
+preferred to sleep until 7 o'clock, rather than wake up early and
+saddle the donkeys, that we might start at 6 o'clock; he had shown
+of late great love for the fire, cowering like a bloodless man
+before it, torpid and apathetic; he had now lost the property-tent
+in the middle of the Masika season, by which carelessness the cloth
+bales would rot and become valueless; he had lost the axe which
+I should want at Ujiji to construct my boat; and finally, he had
+lost a pistol and hatchet, and a flaskful of the best powder.
+Considering all these things, how utterly incompetent he was to
+be captain, I would degrade him from his office and appoint
+Mabruki Burton instead.  Uledi, also, following the example of
+Bombay, instead of being second captain, should give no orders
+to any soldiers in future, but should himself obey those given
+by Mabruki--the said Mabruki being worth a dozen Bombays, and
+two dozen Uledis; and so he was dismissed with orders to return
+at daylight to find the tent, axe, pistol, powder, and hatchet.
+
+The next morning the caravan, thoroughly fatigued with the last
+day's exertions, was obliged to halt.  Bombay was despatched after
+the lost goods; Kingaru, Mabruki the Great, and Mabruki the Little
+were despatched to bring back three doti-worth of grain, on which
+we were to subsist in the wilderness.
+
+Three days passed away and we were still at camp, awaiting, with
+what patience we possessed, the return of the soldiers.  In the
+meantime provisions ran very low, no game could be procured, the
+birds were so wild.  Two days shooting procured but two potfuls
+of birds, consisting of grouse, quail, and pigeons.  Bombay returned
+unsuccessfully from his search after the missing property, and
+suffered deep disgrace.
+
+On the fourth day I despatched Shaw with two more soldiers, to see
+what had become of Kingaru and the two Mabrukis.  Towards night he
+returned completely prostrated, with a violent attack of the
+mukunguru, or ague; but bringing the missing soldiers, who were
+thus left to report for themselves.
+
+With most thankful hearts did we quit our camp, where so much
+anxiety of mind and fretfulness had been suffered, not heeding a
+furious rain, which, after drenching us all night, might have
+somewhat damped our ardor for the march under other circumstances.
+The road for the first mile led over reddish ground, and was
+drained by gentle slopes falling east and west; but, leaving the
+cover of the friendly woods, on whose eastern margin we had been
+delayed so long, we emerged into one of the savannahs, whose soil
+during the rain is as soft as slush and tenacious as thick mortar,
+where we were all threatened with the fate of the famous Arkansas
+traveller, who had sunk so low in one of the many quagmires in
+Arkansas county, that nothing but his tall "stove-pipe" hat was
+left visible.
+
+Shaw was sick, and the whole duty of driving the foundering
+caravan devolved upon myself.  The Wanyamwezi donkeys stuck in
+the mire as if they were rooted to it.  As fast as one was flogged
+from his stubborn position, prone to the depths fell another,
+giving me a Sisyphean labour, which was maddening trader pelting
+rain, assisted by such men as Bombay and Uledi, who could not for
+a whole skin's sake stomach the storm and mire.  Two hours of such
+a task enabled me to drag my caravan over a savannah one mile and
+a half broad; and barely had I finished congratulating myself over
+my success before I was halted by a deep ditch, which, filled with
+rain-water from the inundated savannahs, had become a considerable
+stream, breast-deep, flowing swiftly into the Makata.  Donkeys had
+to be unloaded, led through a torrent, and loaded again on the other
+bank--an operation which consumed a full hour.
+
+Presently, after straggling through a wood clump, barring our
+progress was another stream, swollen into a river.  The bridge
+being swept away, we were obliged to swim and float our baggage
+over, which delayed us two hours more.  Leaving this second
+river-bank, we splashed, waded, occasionally half-swimming, and
+reeled through mire, water-dripping grass and matama stalks,
+along the left bank of the Makata proper, until farther progress
+was effectually prevented for that day by a deep bend of the
+river, which we should be obliged to cross the next day.
+
+Though but six miles were traversed during that miserable day, the
+march occupied ten hours.
+
+Half dead with fatigue, I yet could feel thankful that it was not
+accompanied by fever, which it seemed a miracle to avoid; for if
+ever a district was cursed with the ague, the Makata wilderness
+ranks foremost of those afflicted.  Surely the sight of the
+dripping woods enveloped in opaque mist, of the inundated country
+with lengthy swathes of tiger-grass laid low by the turbid flood,
+of mounds of decaying trees and canes, of the swollen river and the
+weeping sky, was enough to engender the mukunguru!  The well-used
+khambi, and the heaps of filth surrounding it, were enough to
+create a cholera!
+
+The Makata, a river whose breadth during the dry season is but
+forty feet, in the Masika season assumes the breadth, depth, and
+force of an important river.  Should it happen to be an unusually
+rainy season, it inundates the great plain which stretches on
+either side, and converts it into a great lake.  It is the main
+feeder of the Wami river, which empties into the sea between the
+ports of Saadani and Whinde.  About ten miles north-east of the
+Makata crossing, the Great Makata, the Little Makata, a nameless
+creek, and the Rudewa river unite; and the river thus formed
+becomes known as the Wami.  Throughout Usagara the Wami is known
+as the Mukondokwa.  Three of these streams take their rise from
+the crescent-like Usagara range, which bounds the Makata plain south
+and south-westerly; while the Rudewa rises in the northern horn of
+the same range.
+
+So swift was the flow of the Makata, and so much did its unsteady
+bridge, half buried in the water, imperil the safety of the
+property, that its transfer from bank to bank occupied fully five
+hours.  No sooner had we landed every article on the other side,
+undamaged by the water, than the rain poured down in torrents
+that drenched them all, as if they had been dragged through the
+river.  To proceed through the swamp which an hour's rain had
+formed was utterly out of the question.  We were accordingly
+compelled to camp in a place where every hour furnished its quota
+of annoyance.  One of the Wangwana soldiers engaged at Bagamoyo,
+named Kingaru, improved an opportunity to desert with another
+Mgwana's kit.  My two detectives, Uledi (Grant's valet), and
+Sarmean, were immediately despatched in pursuit, both being armed
+with American breech-loaders.  They went about their task with
+an adroitness and celerity which augured well for their success.
+In an hour they returned with the runaway, having found him hidden
+in the house of a Mseguhha chief called Kigondo, who lived about
+a mile from the eastern bank of the river, and who had accompanied
+Uledi and Sarmean to receive his reward, and render an account of
+the incident.
+
+Kigondo said, when he had been seated, "I saw this man carrying
+a bundle, and running hard, by which I knew that he was deserting
+you.  We (my wife and 1) were sitting in our little watch-hut,
+watching our corn; and, as the road runs close by, this man was
+obliged to come close to us.  We called to him when he was near,
+saying, `Master, where are you going so fast?  Are you deserting
+the Musungu, for we know you belong to him, since you bought from
+us yesterday two doti worth of meat?'  'Yes,'  said he, 'I am
+running away; I want to get to Simbamwenni.  If you will take me
+there, I will give you a doti.'  We said to him then, `Come into
+our house, and we will talk it over quietly.  When he was in our
+house in an inner room, we locked him up, and went out again to
+the watch; but leaving word with the women to look out for him.
+We knew that, if you wanted him, you would send askari (soldiers)
+after him.  We had but lit our pipes when we saw two men armed
+with short guns, and having no loads, coming along the road,
+looking now and then on the ground, as if they were looking at
+footmarks.  We knew them to be the men we were expecting; so we
+hailed them, and said, `Masters, what are ye looking for?' \
+They said, 'We are looking for a man who has deserted our master.
+Here are his footsteps.  If you have been long in your hut you
+must have seen him, Can you tell us where he is?'  We said,
+'yes; he is in our house.  If you will come with us, we will
+give him up to you; but your master must give us something for
+catching him.'"
+
+As Kigondo had promised to deliver Kingaru up, there remained
+nothing further to do for Uledi and Sarmean but to take charge of
+their prisoner, and bring him and his captors to my camp on the
+western bank of the Makata.  Kingaru received two dozen lashes,
+and was chained; his captor a doti, besides five khete of red
+coral beads for his wife.
+
+That down-pour of rain which visited us the day we crossed the
+Makata proved the last of the Masika season.  As the first rainfall
+which we had experienced occurred on the 23rd March, and the last
+on the 30th April, its duration was thirty-nine days.  The seers of
+Bagamoyo had delivered their vaticinations concerning this same
+Masika with solemnity.  "For forty days," said they, "rain would
+fall incessantly;" whereas we had but experienced eighteen days'
+rain.  Nevertheless, we were glad that it was over, for we were
+tired of stopping day after day to dry the bales and grease the
+tools and ironware, and of seeing all things of cloth and leather
+rot visibly before our eyes.
+
+The 1st of May found us struggling through the mire and water
+of the Makata with a caravan bodily sick, from the exertion and
+fatigue of crossing so many rivers and wading through marshes.
+Shaw was still suffering from his first mukunguru; Zaidi, a
+soldier, was critically ill with the small-pox; the kichuma-chuma,
+"little irons," had hold of Bombay across the chest, rendering
+him the most useless of the unserviceables; Mabruk Saleem, a
+youth of lusty frame, following the example of Bombay, laid
+himself down on the marshy ground, professing his total inability
+to breast the Makata swamp; Abdul Kader, the Hindi tailor and
+adventurer--the weakliest of mortal bodies--was ever ailing for
+lack of "force," as he expressed it in French, i.e. "strength,"
+ever indisposed to work, shiftless, mock-sick, but ever hungry.
+"Oh! God," was the cry of my tired soul, "were all the men of
+my Expedition like this man I should be compelled to return.
+Solomon was. wise perhaps from inspiration, perhaps from
+observation; I was becoming wise by experience, and I was
+compelled to observe that when mud and wet sapped the physical
+energy of the lazily-inclined, a dog-whip became their backs,
+restoring them to a sound--some-times to an extravagant activity.
+
+For thirty miles from our camp was the Makata plain an extensive
+swamp.  The water was on an average one foot in depth; in some
+places we plunged into holes three, four, and even five feet deep.
+Plash, splash, plash, splash, were the only sounds we heard from
+the commencement of the march until we found the bomas occupying
+the only dry spots along the line of march.  This kind of work
+continued for two days, until we came in sight of the Rudewa river,
+another powerful stream with banks brimful of rushing rain-water.
+Crossing a branch of the Rudewa, and emerging from the dank reedy
+grass crowding the western bank, the view consisted of an immense
+sheet of water topped by clumps of grass tufts and foliage of
+thinly scattered trees, bounded ten or twelve miles off by the
+eastern front of the Usagara mountain range.  The acme of
+discomfort and vexation was realized on the five-mile march from
+the Rudewa branch.  As myself and the Wangwana appeared with the
+loaded donkeys, the pagazis were observed huddled on a mound.  When
+asked if the mound was the camp, they replied "No."  "Why, then,
+do you stop here?"--Ugh! water plenty!!"  "One drew a line across
+his loins to indicate the depth of water before us, another drew a
+line  across his chest, another across his throat another held his
+hand over his head, by which he meant that we should have to swim.
+Swim five miles through a reedy marsh!  It was impossible; it was
+also impossible that such varied accounts could all be correct.
+Without hesitation, therefore, I ordered the Wangwana to proceed
+with the animals.  After three hours of splashing through four
+feet of water we reached dry land, and had traversed the swamp
+of Makata.  But not without the swamp with its horrors having
+left a durable impression upon our minds; no one was disposed
+to forget its fatigues, nor the nausea of travel which it almost
+engendered.  Subsequently, we had to remember its passage still
+more vividly, and to regret that we had undertaken the journey
+during the Masika season, when the animals died from this date
+by twos and threes, almost every day, until but five sickly
+worn-out beasts remained; when the Wangwana, soldiers, and
+pagazis sickened of diseases innumerable; when I myself was
+finally compelled to lie a-bed with an attack of acute dysentery
+which brought me to the verge of the grave.  I suffered more,
+perhaps, than I might have done had I taken the proper medicine,
+but my over-confidence in that compound, called "Collis Brown's
+Chlorodyne," delayed the cure which ultimately resulted from
+a judicious use of Dover's powder. In no one single case of
+diarrhoea or acute dysentery had this "Chlorodyne," about which
+so much has been said, and written, any effect of lessening the
+attack whatever, though I used three bottles.  To the dysentery
+contracted during, the transit of the Makata swamp, only two
+fell victims, and those were a pagazi and my poor little dog
+"Omar," my companion from India.
+
+The only tree of any prominence in the Makata valley was the
+Palmyra palm (Borassus flabelliformis), and this grew in some
+places in numbers sufficient to be called a grove; the fruit was
+not ripe while we passed, otherwise we might have enjoyed it as a
+novelty.  The other vegetation consisted of the several species of
+thorn bush, and the graceful parachute-topped and ever-green
+mimosa.
+
+The 4th of May we were ascending a gentle slope towards the
+important village of Rehenneko, the first village near to which we
+encamped in Usagara.  It lay at the foot of the mountain, and its
+plenitude and mountain air promised us comfort and health.  It was
+a square, compact village, surrounded by a thick wall of mud,
+enclosing cone-topped huts, roofed with bamboo and holcus-stalks;
+and contained a population of about a thousand souls.  It has
+several wealthy and populous neighbours, whose inhabitants are
+independent enough in their manner, but not unpleasantly so.
+The streams are of the purest water, fresh, and pellucid as crystal,
+bubbling over round pebbles and clean gravel, with a music
+delightful to hear to the traveller in search of such a sweetly
+potable element.
+
+The bamboo grows to serviceable size in the neighbourhood of
+Rehenneko, strong enough for tent and banghy poles; and in
+numbers sufficient to supply an army.  The mountain slopes are
+densely wooded with trees that might supply very good timber for
+building purposes.
+
+We rested four days at this pleasant spot, to recruit ourselves,
+and to allow the sick and feeble time to recover a little before
+testing their ability in the ascent of the Usagara mountains.
+
+The 8th of May saw us with our terribly jaded men and animals
+winding up the steep slopes of the first line of hills; gaining
+the summit of which we obtained a view remarkably grand, which
+exhibited as in a master picture the broad valley of the Makata,
+with its swift streams like so many cords of silver, as the
+sunshine played on the unshadowed reaches of water, with its
+thousands of graceful palms adding not a little to the charm of the
+scene, with the great wall of the Uruguru and Uswapanga mountains
+dimly blue, but sublime in their loftiness and immensity--forming a
+fit background to such an extensive, far-embracing prospect.
+
+Turning our faces west, we found ourselves in a mountain world,
+fold rising above fold, peak behind peak, cone jostling cone; away
+to the north, to the west, to the south, the mountain tops rolled
+like so many vitrified waves; not one adust or arid spot was
+visible in all this scene.  The diorama had no sudden changes or
+striking contrasts, for a universal forest of green trees clothed
+every peak, cone, and summit.
+
+To the men this first day's march through the mountain region of
+Usagara was an agreeable interlude after the successive journey
+over the flats and heavy undulations of the maritime region, but
+to the loaded and enfeebled animals it was most trying.  We were
+minus two by the time we had arrived at our camp, but seven miles
+from Rehenneko, our first instalment of the debt we owed to Makata.
+Water, sweet and clear, was abundant in the deep hollows of the
+mountains, flowing sometimes over beds of solid granite, sometimes
+over a rich red sandstone, whose soft substance was soon penetrated
+by the aqueous element, and whose particles were swept away
+constantly to enrich the valley below; and in other ravines it
+dashed,, and roared, miniature thunder, as it leaped over granite
+boulders and quartz rock.
+
+The 9th of May, after another such an up-and-down course, ascending
+hills and descending into the twilight depths of deepening
+valleys, we came suddenly upon the Mukondokwa, and its narrow
+pent-up valley crowded with rank reedy grass, cane, and thorny
+bushes; and rugged tamarisk which grappled for existence with
+monster convolvuli, winding their coils around their trunks with
+such tenacity and strength that the tamarisk seemed grown
+but for their support.
+
+The valley was barely a quarter of a mile broad in some places--
+at others it widened to about a mile.  The hills on either side
+shot up into precipitous slopes, clothed ,with mimosa, acacia,
+and tamarisk, enclosing a river and valley whose curves and
+folds were as various as a serpent's.
+
+Shortly after debouching into the Mukondokwa valley, we struck the
+road traversed by Captains Buxton and Speke in 1857, between Mbumi
+and Kadetamare (the latter place should be called Misonghi,
+Kadetamare being but the name of a chief).  After following the
+left bank of the Mukondokwa, during which our route diverged to
+every point from south-east to west, north and northeast, for
+about an hour, we came to the ford.  Beyond the ford, a short
+half-hour's march, we came to Kiora.
+
+At this filthy village of Kiora, which was well-grounded with
+goat-dung, and peopled with a wonderful number of children for a
+hamlet that did not number twenty families, with a hot sun pouring
+on the limited open space, with a fury that exceeded 128 degrees
+Fahrenheit; which swarmed with flies and insects of known and
+unknown species; I found, as I had been previously informed, the
+third caravan, which had started out of Bagamoyo so well fitted
+and supplied.  The leader, who was no other than the white man
+Farquhar, was sick-a-bed with swollen legs (Bright's disease),
+unable to move.
+
+As he heard my voice, Farquhar staggered out of his tent, so
+changed from my spruce mate who started from Bagamoyo, that I
+hardly knew him at first.  His legs were ponderous, elephantine,
+since his leg-illness was of elephantiasis, or dropsy.  His face
+was of a deathly pallor, for he had not been out of his tent for
+two weeks.
+
+A breezy hill, overlooking the village of Kiora, was chosen by me
+for my camping-ground, and as soon as the tents were pitched, the
+animals attended to, and a boma made of thorn bushes, Farquhar was
+carried up by four men into my tent.  Upon being questioned as to
+the cause of his illness, he said he did not know what had caused
+it.  He had no pain, he thought, anywhere.  I asked, "Do you not
+sometimes feel pain on the right side?"--"Yes, I think I do; but
+I don't know."--" Nor over the left nipple sometimes--a quick
+throbbing, with a shortness of breath?"--" Yes, I think I have.
+I know I breathe quick sometimes." He said his only trouble was
+in the legs, which were swollen to an immense size.  Though he
+had a sound appetite, he yet felt weak in the legs.
+
+From the scant information of the disease and its peculiarities,
+as given by Farquhar himself, I could only make out, by studying
+a little medical book I had with me, that "a swelling of the legs,
+and sometimes of the body, might result from either heart, liver,
+or kidney disease."  But I did not know to what to ascribe the
+disease, unless it was to elephantiasis--a disease most common in
+Zanzibar; nor did I know how to treat it in a man who, could not
+tell me whether he felt pain in his head or in his back, in his
+feet or in his chest.
+
+It was therefore fortunate for me that I overtook him at Kiora;
+though he was about to prove a sore incumbrance to me, for he was
+not able to walk, and the donkey-carriage, after the rough
+experience of the Makata valley, was failing.  I could not possibly
+leave him at Kiora, death would soon overtake him there; but how
+long I could convey a man in such a state, through a country
+devoid of carriage, was a question to be resolved by circumstances.
+
+On the 11th of May, the third and fifth caravans, now united,
+followed up the right bank of the Mukondokwa, through fields of
+holcus, the great Mukondokwa ranges rising in higher altitude as
+we proceeded west, and enfolding us in the narrow river valley round
+about.  We left Muniyi Usagara on our right, and soon after found
+hill-spurs athwart our road, which we were obliged to ascend and
+descend.
+
+A march of eight miles from the ford of Misonghi brought us to
+another ford of the Mukondokwa, where we bid a long adieu to
+Burton's road, which led up to the Goma pass and up the steep
+slopes of Rubeho.  Our road left the right bank and followed the
+left over a country quite the reverse of the Mukondokwa Valley,
+enclosed between mountain ranges.  Fertile soils and spontaneous
+vegetation, reeking with miasma and overpowering from their odour,
+we had exchanged for a drouthy wilderness of aloetic and
+cactaceous plants, where the kolquall and several thorn bushes grew
+paramount.
+
+Instead of the tree-clad heights, slopes and valleys, instead of
+cultivated fields, we saw now the confines of uninhabited wilderness.
+The hill-tops were bared of their bosky crowns, and revealed their
+rocky natures bleached white by rain and sun.  Nguru Peak, the
+loftiest of the Usagara cones, stood right shoulderwards of us
+as we ascended the long slope of dun-grey soil which rose beyond
+the brown Mukondokwa on the left.
+
+At the distance of two miles from the last ford, we found a neat
+khambi, situated close to the river, where it first broke into a
+furious rapid.
+
+The next morning the caravan was preparing for the march, when
+I was informed that the "Bana Mdogo"--little master--Shaw, had not
+yet arrived with the cart, and the men in charge of it.  Late the
+previous night I had despatched one donkey for Shaw, who had said
+he was too ill to walk, and another for the load that was on the
+cart; and had retired satisfied that they would soon arrive.  My
+conclusion, when I learned in the morning that the people had not
+yet come in, was that Shaw was not aware that for five days we
+should have to march through a wilderness totally uninhabited.  I
+therefore despatched Chowpereh, a Mgwana soldier, with the following
+note to him:--"You will, upon receipt of this order pitch the
+cart into the nearest ravine, gully, or river, as well as all the
+extra pack saddles; and come at once, for God's sake, for we must
+not starve here!"
+
+One, two, three, and four hours were passed by me in the utmost
+impatience, waiting, but in vain, for Shaw.  Having a long march
+before us, I could wait no longer, but went to meet his party
+myself.  About a quarter of mile from the ford I met the van of
+the laggards--stout burly Chowpereh--and, O cartmakers, listen!
+he carried the cart on his head--wheels, shafts, body, axle,
+and all complete; he having found that carrying it was much
+easier than drawing it.  The sight was such a damper to my regard
+for it as an experiment, that the cart was wheeled into the
+depths of the tall reeds, and there left.  The central figure was
+Shaw himself, riding at a gait which seemed to leave it doubtful on
+my mind whether he or his animal felt most sleepy.  Upon
+expostulating with him for keeping the caravan so long waiting when
+there was a march on hand, in a most peculiar voice--which he always
+assumed when disposed to be ugly-tempered--he said he had done the
+best he could; but as I had seen the solemn pace at which he
+rode, I felt dubious about his best endeavours; and of course
+there was a little scene, but the young European mtongi of an East
+African expedition must needs sup with the fellows he has chosen.
+
+We arrived at Madete at 4 P.M., minus two donkeys, which had
+stretched their weary limbs in death.  We had crossed the
+Mukondokwa about 3 P.M., and after taking its bearings and course,
+I made sure that its rise took place near a group of mountains
+about forty miles north by west of Nguru Peak.  Our road led
+W.N.W., and at this place finally diverged from the river.
+
+On the 14th, after a march of seven miles over hills whose
+sandstone and granite formation cropped visibly here and there
+above the surface, whose stony and dry aspect seemed reflected
+in every bush and plant, and having gained an altitude of about
+eight hundred feet above the flow of the Mukondokwa, we sighted the
+Lake of Ugombo--a grey sheet of water lying directly at the foot
+of the hill, from whose summit we gazed at the scene.  The view was
+neither beautiful nor pretty, but what I should call refreshing;
+it afforded a pleasant relief to the eyes fatigued from dwelling on
+the bleak country around.  Besides, the immediate neighbourhood of
+the lake was too tame to call forth any enthusiasm; there were no
+grandly swelling mountains, no smiling landscapes--nothing but a
+dun-brown peak, about one thousand feet high above the surface of
+the lake at its western extremity, from which the lake derived its
+name, Ugombo; nothing but a low dun-brown irregular range, running
+parallel with its northern shore at the distance of a mile;
+nothing but a low plain stretching from its western shore far away
+towards the Mpwapwa Mountains and Marenga Mkali, then apparent to
+us from our coign of vantage, from which extensive scene of
+dun-brownness we were glad to rest our eyes on the quiet grey
+water beneath.
+
+Descending from the summit of the range, which bounded the lake
+east for about four hundred feet, we travelled along the northern
+shore.  The time occupied in the journey from the eastern to the
+western extremity was exactly one hour and thirty minutes.
+
+As this side represents its greatest length I conclude that the
+lake is three miles long by two miles greatest breadth.  The
+immediate shores of the lake on all sides, for at least fifty
+feet from the water's edge, is one impassable morass nourishing
+rank reeds and rushes, where the hippopotamus' ponderous form has
+crushed into watery trails the soft composition of the morass
+as he passes from the lake on his nocturnal excursions; the
+lesser animals; such as the "mbogo" (buffalo), the "punda-terra"
+(zebra); the " twiga" (giraffe), the boar, the kudu, the
+hyrax or coney and the antelope; come here also to quench
+their thirst by night.  The surface of the lake swarms with an
+astonishing variety of water-fowl; such as black swan, duck,
+ibis sacra cranes, pelicans; and soaring above on the look-out
+for their prey are fish-eagles and hawks, while the neighbourhood
+is resonant with the loud chirps of the guinea-fowls calling for
+their young, with the harsh cry of the toucan, the cooing of the
+pigeon, and the "to-whit, to-whoo" of the owl.  From the long
+grass in its vicinity also issue the grating and loud cry of
+the florican, woodcock, and grouse.
+
+Being obliged to halt here two days, owing to the desertion of the
+Hindi cooper Jako with one of my best carbines, I improved the
+opportunity of exploring the northern and southern shores of the
+lake.  At the rocky foot of a low, humpy hill on the northern
+side, about fifteen feet above the present surface of the water I
+detected in most distinct and definite lines the agency of waves.
+From its base could be traced clear to the edge of the dank morass
+tiny lines of comminuted shell as plainly marked as the small
+particles which lie in rows on a beech after a receding tide.
+There is no doubt that the wave-marks on the sandstone might have
+been traced much higher by one skilled in geology; it was only
+its elementary character that was visible to me.  Nor do I
+entertain the least doubt, after a two days' exploration of the
+neighbourhood, especially of the low plain at the western end,
+that this Lake of Ugombo is but the tail of what was once a large
+body of water equal in extent to the Tanganika; and, after
+ascending half way up Ugombo Peak, this opinion was confirmed when
+I saw the long-depressed line of plain at its base stretching
+towards the Mpwapwa Mountains thirty miles off, and thence round
+to Marenga Mkali, and covering all that extensive surface of forty
+miles in breadth, and an unknown length.  A depth of twelve feet
+more, I thought, as I gazed upon it, would give the lake a length
+of thirty miles, and a breadth of ten.  A depth of thirty
+feet would increase its length over a hundred miles, and give it a
+breadth of fifty, for such was the level nature of the plain that
+stretched west of Ugombo, and north of Marenga Mkali.  Besides the
+water of the lake partook slightly of the bitter nature of the
+Matamombo creek, distant fifteen miles, and in a still lesser
+degree of that of Marenga Mkali, forty miles off.
+
+Towards the end of the first day of our halt the Hindi cooper Jako
+arrived in camp, alleging as an excuse, that feeling fatigued he
+had fallen asleep in some bushes a few feet from the roadside.
+Having been the cause of our detention in the hungry wilderness of
+Ugombo, I was not in a frame of mind to forgive him; so, to
+prevent any future truant tricks on his part, I was under the
+necessity of including him with the chained gangs of runaways.
+
+Two more of our donkeys died, and to prevent any of the valuable
+baggage being left behind, I was obliged to send Farquhar off on my
+own riding-ass to the village of Mpwapwa, thirty miles off, under
+charge of Mabruki Burton.
+
+To save the Expedition from ruin, I was reluctantly compelled to
+come to the conclusion that it were better for me, for him, and
+concerned, that he be left with some kind chief of a village,
+with a six months' supply of cloth and beads, until he got well,
+than that he make his own recovery impossible.
+
+The 16th of May saw us journeying over the plain which lies
+between Ugombo and Mpwapwa, skirting close, at intervals, a low
+range of trap-rock, out of which had become displaced by some
+violent agency several immense boulders.  On its slopes grew the
+kolquall to a size which I had not seen in Abyssinia.  In the plain
+grew baobab, and immense tamarind, and a variety of thorn.
+
+Within five hours from Ugombo the mountain range deflected towards
+the north-east, while we continued on a north-westerly course,
+heading for the lofty mountain-line of the Mpwapwa.  To our left
+towered to the blue clouds the gigantic Rubeho.  The adoption of
+this new road to Unyanyembe by which we were travelling was now
+explained--we were enabled to avoid the passes and stiff steeps of
+Rubeho, and had nothing worse to encounter than a broad smooth
+plain, which sloped gently to Ugogo.
+
+After a march of fifteen miles we camped at a dry mtoni, called
+Matamombo, celebrated for its pools of bitter.  water of the colour
+of ochre.  Monkeys and rhinoceroses, besides kudus, steinboks, and
+antelopes, were numerous in the vicinity.  At this camp my little
+dog "Omar" died of inflammation of the bowels, almost on the
+threshold of the country--Ugogo--where his faithful watchfulness
+would have been invaluable to me.
+
+The next day's march was also fifteen miles in length, through one
+interminable jungle of thorn-bushes.  Within two miles of the camp,
+the road led up a small river bed, broad as an avenue, clear to the
+khambi of Mpwapwa; which was situated close to a number of streams
+of the purest water.
+
+The following morning found us much fatigued after the long marches
+from Ugombo, and generally disposed to take advantage of the
+precious luxuries Mpwapwa offered to caravans fresh from the
+fly-plagued lands of the Waseguhha and Wadoe.  Sheikh Thani--clever
+but innocently-speaking old Arab--was encamped under the grateful
+umbrage of a huge Mtamba sycamore, and had been regaling himself
+with fresh milk, luscious mutton, and rich bullock humps, ever
+since his arrival here, two days before; and, as he informed me,
+it did not suit his views to quit such a happy abundance so soon
+for the saline nitrous water of Marenga Mkali, with its several
+terekezas, and manifold disagreeables.  "No!" said he to me,
+emphatically, "better stop here two or three days, give your tired
+animals some rest; collect all the pagazis you can, fill your inside
+with fresh milk, sweet potatoes, beef, mutton, ghee, honey, beans,
+matama, maweri, and nuts;--then, Inshallah! we shall go together
+through Ugogo without stopping anywhere."  As the advice tallied
+accurately with my own desired and keen appetite for the good
+things he named, he had not long to wait for my assent to his
+counsel.  "Ugogo," continued he, "is rich with milk and honey--
+rich in flour, beans and almost every eatable thing; and,
+Inshallah! before another week is gone we shall be in Ugogo!"
+
+I had heard from passing caravans so many extremely favourable
+reports respecting Ugogo and its productions that it appeared
+to me a very Land of Promise, and I was most anxious to refresh
+my jaded stomach with some of the precious esculents raised in
+Ugogo; but when I heard that Mpwapwa also furnished some of
+those delicate eatables, and good things, most of the morning
+hours were spent in inducing the slow-witted people to part
+with them; and when, finally, eggs, milk, honey, mutton, ghee,
+ground matama and beans had been collected in sufficient
+quantities to produce a respectable meal, my keenest attention
+and best culinary talents were occupied for a couple of hours
+in converting this crude supply into a breakfast which could be
+accepted by and befit a stomach at once fastidious and famished,
+such as mine was.  The subsequent healthy digestion of it proved
+my endeavours to have been eminently successful.  At the
+termination of this eventful day, the following remark was jotted
+down in my diary: "Thank God!  After fifty-seven days of living
+upon matama porridge and tough goat, I have enjoyed with unctuous
+satisfaction a real breakfast and dinner."
+
+It was in one of the many small villages which are situated upon
+the slopes of the Mpwapwa that a refuge and a home for Farquhar
+was found until he should be enabled by restored health to start
+to join us at Unyanyembe.
+
+Food was plentiful and of sufficient variety to suit the most
+fastidious--cheap also, much cheaper than we had experienced for
+many a day.  Leucole, the chief of the village, with whom
+arrangements for Farquhar's protection and comfort were made, was
+a little old man of mild eye and very pleasing face, and on being
+informed that it was intended to leave the Musungu entirely under
+his charge, suggested that some man should be left to wait on him,
+and interpret his wishes to his people.
+
+As Jako was the only one who could speak English, except Bombay
+and Selim, Jako was appointed, and the chief Leucole was satisfied.
+Six months' provisions of white beads, Merikani and Kaniki cloth,
+together with two doti of handsome cloth to serve as a present to
+Leucole after his recovery, were taken to Farquhar by Bombay,
+together with a Starr's carbine, 300 rounds of cartridge, a set of
+cooking pots, and 3 lbs. of tea.
+
+Abdullah bin Nasib, who was found encamped here with five hundred
+pagazis, and a train of Arab and Wasawahili satellites, who
+revolved around his importance, treated me in somewhat the same
+manner that Hamed bin Sulayman treated Speke at Kasenge.  Followed
+by his satellites, he came (a tall nervous-looking man, of fifty
+or thereabouts) to see me in my camp, and asked me if I wished to
+purchase donkeys.  As all my animals were either sick or moribund,
+I replied very readily in the affirmative, upon which he
+graciously said he would sell me as many as I wanted, and for
+payment I could give him a draft on Zanzibar.  I thought him a very
+considerate and kind person, fully justifying the encomiums
+lavished on him in Burton's `Lake Regions of Central Africa,' and
+accordingly I treated him with the consideration due to so great
+and good a man.  The morrow came, and with it went Abdullah bin
+Nasib, or "Kisesa," as he is called by the Wanyamwezi, with all his
+pagazis, his train of followers, and each and every one of his
+donkeys, towards Bagamoyo, without so much as giving a "Kwaheri,"
+or good-bye.
+
+At this place there are generally to be found from ten to thirty
+pagazis awaiting up-caravans.  I was fortunate enough to secure
+twelve good people, who, upon my arrival at Unyanyembe, without
+an exception, voluntarily engaged themselves as carriers to Ujiji.
+With the formidable marches of Marenga Mkali in front, I felt
+thankful for this happy windfall,, which resolved the difficulties
+I had been anticipating; for I had but ten donkeys left, and four
+of these were so enfeebled that they were worthless as baggage
+animals.
+
+Mpwapwa--so called by the Arabs, who have managed to corrupt almost
+every native word--is called "Mbambwa" by the Wasagara.  It is a
+mountain range rising over 6,000 feet above the sea, bounding on
+the north the extensive plain which commences at Ugombo lake, and
+on the east that part of the plain which is called Marenga Mkali,
+which stretches away beyond the borders of Uhumba.  Opposite
+Mpwapwa, at the distance of thirty miles or so, rises the Anak
+peak of Rubeho, with several other ambitious and tall brethren
+cresting long lines of rectilinear scarps, which ascend from the
+plain of Ugombo and Marenga Mkali as regularly as if they had
+been chiselled out by the hands of generations of masons and
+stonecutters.
+
+Upon looking at Mpwapwa's greenly-tinted slopes, dark with many
+a densely-foliaged tree; its many rills flowing sweet and clear,
+nourishing besides thick patches of gum and thorn bush, giant
+sycamore and parachute-topped mimosa, and permitting my
+imagination to picture sweet views behind the tall cones above,
+I was tempted to brave the fatigue of an ascent to the summit.
+Nor was my love for the picturesque disappointed.  One sweep of the
+eyes embraced hundreds of square miles of plain and mountain, from
+Ugombo Peak away to distant Ugogo, and from Rubeho and Ugogo to
+the dim and purple pasture lands of the wild, untamable Wahumba.
+The plain of Ugombo and its neighbour of Marenga Mkali, apparently
+level as a sea, was dotted here and there with "hillocks dropt in
+Nature's careless haste," which appeared like islands amid the dun
+and green expanse.  Where the jungle was dense the colour was green,
+alternating with dark brown; where the plain appeared denuded of
+bush and brake it had a whity-brown appearance, on which the
+passing clouds now and again cast their deep shadows.  Altogether
+this side of the picture was not inviting; it exhibited too
+plainly the true wilderness in its sternest aspect; but perhaps
+the knowledge that in the bosom of the vast plain before me there
+was not one drop of water but was bitter as nitre, and undrinkable
+as urine, prejudiced me against it, The hunter might consider it
+a paradise, for in its depths were all kinds of game to attract his
+keenest instincts; but to the mere traveller it had a stern outlook.
+Nearer, however, to the base of the Mpwapwa the aspect of the plain
+altered.  At first the jungle thinned, openings in the wood
+appeared, then wide and naked clearings, then extensive fields of
+the hardy holcus, Indian corn, and maweri or bajri, with here and
+there a square tembe or village.  Still nearer ran thin lines of
+fresh young grass, great trees surrounded a patch of alluvial
+meadow.  A broad river-bed, containing several rivulets of water,
+ran through the thirsty fields, conveying the vivifying element
+which in this part of Usagara was so scarce and precious.  Down
+to the river-bed sloped the Mpwapwa, roughened in some places by
+great boulders of basalt, or by rock masses, which had parted from
+a precipitous scarp, where clung the kolquall with a sure hold,
+drawing nourishment where every other green thing failed; clad in
+others by the hardy mimosa, which rose like a sloping bank of
+green verdure almost to the summit.  And, happy sight to me so
+long a stranger to it, there were hundreds of cattle grazing,
+imparting a pleasing animation to the solitude of the deep folds
+of the mountain range.
+
+But the fairest view was obtained by looking northward towards the
+dense group of mountains which buttressed the front range, facing
+towards Rubeho.  It was the home of the winds, which starting here
+and sweeping down the precipitous slopes and solitary peaks on the
+western side, and gathering strength as they rushed through the
+prairie-like Marenga Mkali, howled through Ugogo and Unyamwezi with
+the force of a storm, It was also the home of the dews, where
+sprang the clear springs which cheered by their music the bosky
+dells below, and enriched the populous district of Mpwapwa.
+One felt better, stronger, on this breezy height, drinking in the
+pure air and feasting the eyes on such a varied landscape as it
+presented, on spreading plateaus green as lawns, on smooth rounded
+tops, on mountain vales containing recesses which might charm a
+hermit's soul, on deep and awful ravines where reigned a twilight
+gloom, on fractured and riven precipices, on huge fantastically-worn
+boulders which overtopped them, on picturesque tracts which
+embraced all that was wild, and all that was poetical in Nature.
+
+Mpwapwa, though the traveller from the coast will feel grateful for
+the milk it furnished after being so long deprived of it, will be
+kept in mind as a most remarkable place for earwigs.  In my tent
+they might be counted by thousands; in my slung cot they were
+by hundreds; on my clothes they were by fifties; on my neck
+and head they were by scores.  The several plagues of locusts,
+fleas, and lice sink into utter insignificance compared with this
+fearful one of earwigs.  It is true they did not bite, and they
+did not irritate the cuticle, but what their presence and numbers
+suggested was something so horrible that it drove one nearly
+insane to think of it.  Who will come to East Africa without
+reading the experiences of Burton and Speke?  Who is he that
+having read them will not remember with horror the dreadful
+account given by Speke of his encounters with these pests?
+My intense nervous watchfulness alone, I believe, saved me
+from a like calamity.
+
+Second to the earwigs in importance and in numbers were the white
+ants, whose powers of destructiveness were simply awful.  Mats,
+cloth, portmanteaus, clothes, in short, every article I possessed,
+seemed on the verge of destruction, and, as I witnessed their
+voracity, I felt anxious lest my tent should be devoured while
+I slept.  This was the first khambi since leaving the coast where
+their presence became a matter of anxiety; at all other camping
+places hitherto the red and black ants had usurped our attention,
+but at Mpwapwa the red species were not seen, while the black
+were also very scarce.
+
+After a three days' halt at Mpwapwa I decided of a march to
+Marenga Mkali, which should be uninterrupted until we reached Mvumi
+in Ugogo, where I should be inducted into the art of paying tribute
+to the Wagogo chiefs.  The first march to Kisokweh was purposely
+made short, being barely four miles, in order to enable Sheikh
+Thani, Sheikh Hamed, and five or six Wasawahili caravans to come
+up with me at Chunyo on the confines of Marenga Mkali.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII.  MARENGA MKALI, UGOGO, AND UYANZI, TO UNYANYEMBE.
+
+Mortality amongst the baggage animals.--The contumacious Wagogo--
+Mobs of Maenads.--Tribute paying.--Necessity of prudence.--Oration
+of the guide.--The genuine "Ugogians."--Vituperative power.--A
+surprised chief.--The famous Mizanza.--Killing hyaenas.--The Greeks
+and Romans of Africa.--A critical moment.--The "elephant's back."--
+The wilderness of Ukimbu.--End of the first stage of the search.--
+Arrival at Unyanyembe.
+
+
+The 22nd of May saw Thani and Hamed's caravans united with my own
+at Chunyo, three and a half hours' march from Mpwapwa.  The road
+from the latter place ran along the skirts of the Mpwapwa range;
+at three or four places it crossed outlying spurs that stood
+isolated from the main body of the range.  The last of these hill
+spurs, joined by an elevated cross ridge to the Mpwapwa, shelters
+the tembe of Chunyo, situated on the western face, from the stormy
+gusts that come roaring down the steep slopes.  The water of Chunyo
+is eminently bad, in fact it is its saline-nitrous nature which has
+given the name Marenga Mkali--bitter water--to the wilderness which
+separates Usagara from Ugogo.  Though extremely offensive to the
+palate, Arabs and the natives drink it without fear, and without
+any bad results; but they are careful to withhold their baggage
+animals from the pits.  Being ignorant of its nature, and not
+exactly understanding what precise location was meant by Marenga
+Mkali, I permitted the donkeys to be taken to water, as usual
+after a march; and the consequence was calamitous in the extreme.
+What the fearful swamp of Makata had spared, the waters of
+Marenga Mkali destroyed.  In less than five days after our
+departure from Chunyo or Marenga Mali, five out of the nine donkeys
+left to me at the time--the five healthiest animals--fell victims.
+
+We formed quite an imposing caravan as we emerged from inhospitable
+Chunyo, in number amounting to about four hundred souls.  We were
+strong in guns, flags, horns, sounding drums and noise.  To Sheikh
+Hamed, by permission of Sheikh Thani, and myself was allotted the
+task of guiding and leading this great caravan through dreaded
+Ugogo; which was a most unhappy selection, as will be seen
+hereafter.
+
+Marenga Mali, over thirty miles across, was at last before us.
+This distance had to be traversed within thirty-six hours, so that
+the fatigue of the ordinary march would be more than doubled by this.
+From Chunyo to Ugogo not one drop of water was to be found.  As a
+large caravan, say over two hundred souls, seldom travels over one
+and three-quarter miles per hour, a march of thirty miles would
+require seventeen hours of endurance without water and but little
+rest.  East Africa generally possessing unlimited quantities of
+water, caravans have not been compelled for lack of the element
+to have recourse to the mushok of India and the khirbeh of Egypt.
+Being able to cross the waterless districts by a couple of long
+marches, they content themselves for the time with a small gourdful,
+and with keeping their imaginations dwelling upon the copious
+quantities they will drink upon arrival at the watering-place.
+
+The march through this waterless district was most monotonous,
+and a dangerous fever attacked me, which seemed to eat into my very
+vitals.  The wonders of Africa that bodied themselves forth in the
+shape of flocks of zebras, giraffes, elands, or antelopes,
+galloping over the jungleless plain, had no charm for me; nor
+could they serve to draw my attention from the severe fit of
+sickness which possessed me.  Towards the end of the first march
+I was not able to sit upon the donkey's back; nor would it do,
+when but a third of the way across the wilderness, to halt until
+the next day; soldiers were therefore detailed to carry me in a
+hammock, and, when the terekeza was performed in the afternoon,
+I lay in a lethargic state, unconscious of all things.  With the
+night passed the fever, and, at 3 o'clock in the morning, when the
+march was resumed, I was booted and spurred, and the recognized
+mtongi of my caravan once more.  At 8 A.M. we had performed the
+thirty-two miles.  The wilderness of Marenga Mkali had been passed
+and we had entered Ugogo, which was at once a dreaded land to my
+caravan, and a Land of Promise to myself.
+
+The transition from the wilderness into this Promised Land was
+very gradual and easy.  Very slowly the jungle thinned, the cleared
+land was a long time appearing, and when it had finally appeared,
+there were no signs of cultivation until we could clearly make out
+the herbage and vegetation on some hill slopes to our right running
+parallel with our route, then we saw timber on the hills, and broad
+acreage under cultivation--and, lo! as we ascended a wave of
+reddish earth covered with tall weeds and cane, but a few feet from
+us, and directly across our path, were the fields of matama and
+grain we had been looking for, and Ugogo had been entered an hour
+before.
+
+The view was not such as I expected.  I had imagined a plateau
+several hundred feet higher than Marenga Mkali, and an expansive
+view which should reveal Ugogo and its characteristics at once.
+But instead, while travelling from the tall weeds which covered
+the clearing which had preceded the cultivated parts, we had entered
+into the depths of the taller matama stalks, and, excepting some
+distant hills near Mvumi, where the Great Sultan lived--the first
+of the tribe to whom we should pay tribute--the view was extremely
+limited.
+
+However, in the neighbourhood of the first village a glimpse at
+some of the peculiar features of Ugogo was obtained, and there
+was a vast plain--now flat, now heaving upwards, here level as a
+table, there tilted up into rugged knolls bristling with scores of
+rough boulders of immense size, which lay piled one above another
+as if the children of a Titanic race had been playing at
+house-building.  Indeed, these piles of rounded, angular, and riven
+rock formed miniature hills of themselves; and appeared as if each
+body had been ejected upwards by some violent agency beneath.
+There was one of these in particular, near Mvumi, which was so
+large, and being slightly obscured from view by the outspreading
+branches of a gigantic baobab, bore such a strong resemblance to
+a square tower of massive dimensions, that for a long time I
+cherished the idea that I had discovered something most
+interesting which had strangely escaped the notice of my
+predecessors in East Africa.  A nearer view dispelled the illusion,
+and proved it to be a huge cube of rock, measuring about forty
+feet each way.  The baobabs were also particularly conspicuous on
+this scene, no other kind of tree being visible in the cultivated
+parts.  These had probably been left for two reasons: first, want
+of proper axes for felling trees of such enormous growth;
+secondly, because during a famine the fruit of the baobab furnishes
+a flour which, in the absence of anything better, is said to be
+eatable and nourishing.
+
+The first words I heard in Ugogo were from a Wagogo elder, of
+sturdy form, who in an indolent way tended the flocks, but showed
+a marked interest in the stranger clad in white flannels, with a
+Hawkes' patent cork solar topee on his head, a most unusual thing
+in Ugogo, who came walking past him, and there were "Yambo, Musungu,
+Yambo, bana, bana," delivered with a voice loud enough to make
+itself heard a full mile away.  No sooner had the greeting
+been delivered than the word "Musungu" seemed to electrify his
+entire village; and the people of other villages, situated at
+intervals near the road, noting the excitement that reigned at
+the first, also participated in the general frenzy which seemed
+suddenly to have possessed them.  I consider my progress from the
+first village to Mvumi to have been most triumphant; for I was
+accompanied by a furious mob of men, women, and children, all
+almost as naked as Mother Eve when the world first dawned upon her
+in the garden of Eden, fighting, quarrelling, jostling, staggering
+against each other for the best view of the white man, the like of
+whom was now seen for the first time in this part of Ugogo.  The
+cries of admiration, such as "Hi-le!" which broke often and in
+confused uproar upon my ear, were not gratefully accepted,
+inasmuch as I deemed many of them impertinent.  A respectful
+silence and more reserved behaviour would have won my esteem;
+but, ye powers, who cause etiquette to be observed in Usungu,*
+respectful silence, reserved behaviour, and esteem are terms
+unknown in savage Ugogo.  Hitherto I had compared myself to a
+merchant of Bagdad travelling among the Kurds of Kurdistan, selling
+his wares of Damascus silk, kefiyehs, &c.; but now I was compelled
+to lower my standard, and thought myself not much better than a
+monkey in a zoological collection.  One of my soldiers requested
+them to lessen their vociferous noise; but the evil-minded race
+ordered him to shut up, as a thing unworthy to speak to the Wagogo!
+When I imploringly turned to the Arabs for counsel in this strait,
+old Sheikh Thani, always worldly wise, said, "Heed them not;
+they are dogs who bite besides barking."
+____________________
+* White man's land.
+_____________________
+
+At 9 A.M. we were in our boma, near Mvumi village; but here also
+crowds of Wagogo came to catch a glimpse of the Musungu, whose
+presence was soon made known throughout the district of Mvumi.
+But two hours later I was oblivious of their endeavours to see me;
+for, despite repeated doses of quinine, the mukunguru had sure hold
+of me.
+
+The next day was a march of eight miles, from East Mvumi to West
+Mvumi, where lived the Sultan of the district.  The quantity and
+variety of provisions which arrived at our boma did not belie the
+reports respecting the productions of Ugogo.  Milk, sour and sweet,
+honey, beans, matama, maweri, Indian corn, ghee, pea-nuts, and a
+species of bean-nut very like a large pistachio or an almond,
+water-melons, pumpkins, mush-melons, and cucumbers were brought,
+and readily exchanged for Merikani, Kaniki, and for the white
+Merikani beads and Sami-Sami, or Sam-Sam.  The trade and barter
+which progressed in the camp from morning till night reminded me
+of the customs existing among the Gallas and Abyssinians.
+Eastward, caravans were obliged to despatch men with cloth, to
+purchase from the villagers.  This was unnecessary in Ugogo, where
+the people voluntarily brought every vendible they possessed to
+the camp.  The smallest breadth of white or blue cloth became
+saleable and useful in purchasing provisions--even a loin-cloth
+worn threadbare.
+
+The day after our march was a halt.  We had fixed this day for
+bearing the tribute to the Great Sultan of Mvumi.  Prudent and
+cautious Sheikh Thani early began this important duty, the
+omission of which would have been a signal for war.  Hamed and
+Thani sent two faithful slaves, well up to the eccentricities of
+the Wagogo sultans--well spoken, having glib tongues and the real
+instinct for trade as carried on amongst Orientals.  They bore six
+doti of cloths, viz., one doti of Dabwani Ulyah contributed by
+myself, also one doti of Barsati from me, two doti Merikani Satine
+from Sheikh Thani, and two doti of Kaniki from Sheikh Hamed, as a
+first instalment of the tribute.  The slaves were absent a full
+hour, but having wasted their powers of pleading, in vain, they
+returned with the demand for more, which Sheikh Thani communicated
+to me in this wise:
+
+"Auf! this Sultan is a very bad man--a very bad man indeed;
+he says, the Musungu is a great man, I call him a sultan; the
+Musungu is very rich, for he has several caravans already gone
+past; the Musungu must pay forty doti, and the Arabs must pay
+twelve doti each, for they have rich caravans.  It is of no use
+for you to tell me you are all one caravan, otherwise why so many
+flags and tents?  Go and bring me sixty doti, with less I will
+not be satisfied."
+
+I suggested to Sheikh Thani, upon hearing this exorbitant demand,
+that had I twenty Wasungu* armed with Winchester repeating rifles,
+the Sultan might be obliged to pay tribute to me; but Thani
+prayed and begged me to be cautious lest angry words might
+irritate the Sultan and cause him to demand a double tribute, as he
+was quite capable of doing so; "and if you preferred war," said
+he, "your pagazis would all desert, and leave you and your cloth
+to the small mercy of the Wagogo."  But I hastened to allay his
+fears by telling Bombay, in his presence, that I had foreseen such
+demands on the part of the Wagogo, and that having set aside one
+hundred and twenty doti of honga cloths, I should not consider
+myself a sufferer if the Sultan demanded and I paid forty cloths
+to him; that he must therefore open the honga bale, and permit
+Sheikh Thani to extract such cloths as the Sultan might like.
+
+Sheikh Thani, having put on the cap of consideration and joined
+heads with Hamed and the faithful serviles, thought if I paid
+twelve doti, out of which three should be of Ulyah+  quality,
+that the Sultan might possibly condescend to accept our tribute;
+supposing he was persuaded by the oratorical words of the "Faithfuls,"
+that the Musungu had nothing with him but the mashiwa (boat),
+which would be of no use to him, come what might,--with which
+prudent suggestion the Musungu concurred, seeing its wisdom.
+______________________
+* White men.
++ Best, or superior.
+_____________________
+
+The slaves departed, bearing this time from our boma thirty doti,
+with our best wishes for their success.  In an hour they returned
+with empty hands, but yet unsuccessful.  The Sultan demanded six
+doti of Merikani, and a fundo of bubu, from the Musungu; and from
+the Arabs and other caravans, twelve doti more.  For the third time
+the slaves departed for the Sultan's tembe, carrying with them six
+doti Merikani and a fundo of bubu from myself, and ten doti from
+the Arabs.  Again they returned to us with the Sultan's words,
+"That, as the doti of the Musungu were short measure, and the cloths
+of the Arabs of miserable quality, the Musungu must send three doti
+full measure, and the Arabs five doti of Kaniki."  My three doti
+were at once measured out with the longest fore-arm--according
+to Kigogo measure--and sent off by Bombay; but the Arabs, almost
+in despair, declared they would be ruined if they gave way to such
+demands, and out of the five doti demanded sent only two, with a
+pleading to the Sultan that he would consider what was paid as
+just and fair Muhongo, and not ask any more.  But the Sultan of
+Mvumi was by no means disposed to consider any such proposition,
+but declared he must have three doti, and these to be two of Ulyah
+cloth, and one Kitambi Barsati, which, as he was determined to
+obtain, were sent to him heavy with the deep maledictions of
+Sheikh Hamed and the despairing sighs of sheikh Thani.
+
+Altogether the sultanship of a district in Ugogo must be very
+remunerative, besides being a delightful sinecure, so long as the
+Sultan has to deal with timid Arab merchants who fear to exhibit
+anything approaching to independence and self-reliance, lest they
+might be mulcted in cloth.  In one day from one camp the sultan
+received forty-seven doti, consisting of Merikani, Kaniki, Barsati,
+and Dabwani, equal to $35.25, besides seven doti of superior
+cloths, consisting of Rehani, Sohari, and Daobwani Ulyah, and one
+fundo of Bubu, equal to $14.00, making a total of $49.25--a most
+handsome revenue for a Mgogo chief.
+
+On the 27th May we gladly shook the dust of Mvumi from our feet,
+and continued on our route--ever westward.  Five of my donkeys had
+died the night before, from the effects of the water of Marenga
+Mkali.  Before leaving the camp of Mvumi, I went to look at their
+carcases; but found them to have been clean picked by the
+hyaenas, and the bones taken possession of by an army of
+white-necked crows.
+
+As we passed the numerous villages, and perceived the entire face
+of the land to be one vast field of grain, and counted the people
+halted by scores on the roadside to feast their eyes with a greedy
+stare on the Musungu, I no longer wondered at the extortionate
+demands of the Wagogo.  For it was manifest that they had but to
+stretch out their hands to possess whatever the wealth of a caravan
+consisted of; and I began to think better of the people who,
+knowing well their strength, did not use it--of people who were
+intellectual enough to comprehend that their interest lay in
+permitting the caravans to pass on without attempting any outrage.
+
+Between Mvumi and the nest Sultan's district, that of Matamburu,
+I counted no less than twenty-five villages, scattered over the
+clayey, coloured plain.  Despite the inhospitable nature of
+the plain, it was better cultivated than any part of any other
+country we had seen since leaving Bagamoyo.
+
+When we had at last arrived at our boma of Matamburu, the same
+groups of curious people, the same eager looks, the same
+exclamations of surprise, the same, peals of laughter, at something
+they deemed ludicrous in the Musungu's dress or manner, awaited
+us, as at Mvumi.  The Arabs being "Wakonongo" travellers, whom
+they saw every day, enjoyed a complete immunity from the
+vexations which we had to endure.
+
+The Sultan of Matamburu, a man of herculean form, and massive
+head well set on shoulders that might vie with those of Milo,
+proved to be a very reasonable person.  Not quite so powerful as
+the Sultan of Mvumi, he yet owned a fair share of Ugogo and about
+forty villages, and could, if he chose, have oppressed the
+mercantile souls of my Arab companions, in the same way as he of
+Mvumi.  Four doti of cloth were taken to him as a preliminary
+offering to his greatness, which he said he would accept, if the
+Arabs and Musungu would send him four more.  As his demands were so
+reasonable, this little affair was soon terminated to everybody's
+satisfaction; and soon after, the kirangozi of Sheikh Hamed
+sounded the signal for the morrow's march.
+
+At the orders of the same Sheikh, the kirangozi stood up to speak
+before the assembled caravans.  "Words, words, from the Bana," he
+shouted.  "Give ear, kirangozis!  Listen, children of Unyamwezi!
+The journey is for to-morrow!  The road is crooked and bad, bad!
+The jungle is there, and many Wagogo lie hidden within it!
+Wagogo spear the pagazis, and cut the throats of those who carry
+mutumba (bales) and ushanga (beads)!  The Wagogo have been to our
+camp, they have seen your bales; to-night they seek the jungle:
+to-morrow watch well, O Wanyamwezi!  Keep close together, lag not
+behind!  Kirangozis walk slow, that the weak, the sick, and the
+young may keep up with the strong!  Take two rests on the journey!
+These are the words of the Bana (master).  Do you hear them,
+Wanyamwezi?  (A loud shout in the affirmative from all.)  Do you
+understand them well? (another chorus); then Bas;" having said
+which, the eloquent kirangozi retired into the dark night, and
+his straw hut.
+
+The march to Bihawana, our next camp, was rugged and long, through
+a continuous jungle of gums and thorns, up steep hills and finally
+over a fervid plain, while the sun waxed hotter and hotter as it
+drew near the meridian, until it seemed to scorch all vitality
+from inanimate nature, while the view was one white blaze,
+unbearable to the pained sight, which sought relief from the glare
+in vain.  Several sandy watercourses, on which were impressed many
+a trail of elephants, were also passed on this march.  The slope of
+these stream-beds trended south-east and south.
+
+In the middle of this scorching plain stood the villages of
+Bihawana, almost undistinguishable, from the extreme lowness of
+the huts, which did not reach the height of the tall bleached grass
+which stood smoking in the untempered heat.
+
+Our camp was in a large boma, about a quarter of a mile from the
+Sultan's tembe.  Soon after arriving at the camp, I was visited by
+three Wagogo, who asked me if I had seen a Mgogo on the road with a
+woman and child.  I was about to answer, very innocently, "Yes,"
+when Mabruki--cautious and watchful always for the interests of the
+master--requested me not to answer, as the Wagogo, as customary,
+would charge me with having done away with them, and would require
+their price from me.  Indignant at the imposition they were about
+to practise upon me, I was about to raise my whip to flog them out
+of the camp, when again Mabruki, with a roaring voice, bade me
+beware, for every blow would cost me three or four doti of cloth.
+As I did not care to gratify my anger at such an expense, I was
+compelled to swallow my wrath, and consequently the Wagogo
+escaped chastisement.
+
+We halted for one day at this place, which was a great relief to
+me, as I was suffering severely from intermittent fever, which
+lasted in this case two weeks, and entirely prevented my posting
+my diary in full, as was my custom every evening after a march.
+
+The Sultan of Bihawana, though his subjects were evil-disposed, and
+ready-handed at theft and murder, contented himself with three doti
+as honga.  From this chief I received news of my fourth caravan,
+which had distinguished itself in a fight with some outlawed
+subjects of his; my soldiers had killed two who had attempted,
+after waylaying a couple of my pagazis, to carry away a bale of
+cloth and a bag of beads; coming up in time, the soldiers
+decisively frustrated the attempt.  The Sultan thought that if all
+caravans were as well guarded as mine were, there would be less
+depredations committed on them while on the road; with which I
+heartily agreed.
+
+The next sultan's tembe through whose territory we marched, this
+being on the 30th May, was at Kididimo, but four miles from Bihawna.
+The road led through a flat elongated plain, lying between two
+lengthy hilly ridges, thickly dotted with the giant forms of the
+baobab.  Kididimo is exceedingly bleak in aspect.  Even the faces
+of the Wagogo seemed to have contracted a bleak hue from the general
+bleakness around.  The water of the pits obtained in the
+neighbourhood had an execrable flavor, and two donkeys sickened and
+died in less than an hour from its effects.  Man suffered nausea
+and a general irritability of the system, and accordingly revenged
+himself by cursing the country and its imbecile ruler most heartily.
+The climax came, however, when Bombay reported, after an attempt to
+settle the Muhongo, that the chief's head had grown big since he
+heard that the Musungu had come, and that its "bigness" could not
+be reduced unless he could extract ten doti as tribute.  Though
+the demand was large, I was not in a humour--being feeble, and
+almost nerveless, from repeated attacks of the Mukunguru--to
+dispute the sum: consequently it was paid without many words.
+But the Arabs continued the whole afternoon negotiating, and at
+the end had to pay eight doti each.
+
+Between Kididimo and Nyambwa, the district of the Sultan Pembera
+Pereh, was a broad and lengthy forest and jungle inhabited by the
+elephant, rhinoceros, zebra, deer, antelope, and giraffe.  Starting
+at dawn of the 31st; we entered the jungle, whose dark lines and
+bosky banks were clearly visible from our bower at Kididimo;
+and, travelling for two hours, halted for rest and breakfast, at
+pools of sweet water surrounded by tracts of vivid green verdure,
+which were a great resort for the wild animals of the jungle, whose
+tracks were numerous and recent.  A narrow nullah, shaded deeply
+with foliage, afforded excellent retreats from the glaring
+sunshine.  At meridian, our thirst quenched, our hunger satisfied,
+our gourds refilled, we set out from the shade into the heated blaze
+of hot noon.  The path serpentined in and out of jungle, and thin
+forest, into open tracts of grass bleached white as stubble, into
+thickets of gums and thorns, which emitted an odour as rank as a
+stable; through clumps of wide-spreading mimosa and colonies of
+baobab, through a country teeming with noble game, which, though we
+saw them frequently, were yet as safe from our rifles as if we had
+been on the Indian Ocean.  A terekeza, such as we were now making,
+admits of no delay.  Water we had left behind at noon: until noon
+of the next day not a drop was to be obtained; and unless we
+marched fast and long on this day, raging thirst would demoralize
+everybody.  So for six long weary hours we toiled bravely; and at
+sunset we camped, and still a march of two hours, to be done before
+the sun was an hour high, intervened between us and our camp at
+Nyambwa.  That night the men bivouacked under the trees, surrounded
+by many miles of dense forest, enjoying the cool night unprotected
+by hat or tent, while I groaned and tossed throughout the night in
+a paroxysm of fever.
+
+The morn came; and, while it was yet young, the long caravan, or
+string of caravans, was under way.  It was the same forest,
+admitting, on the narrow line which we threaded, but one man at a
+time.  Its view was as limited.  To our right and left the forest
+was dark and deep.  Above was a riband of glassy sky flecked by
+the floating nimbus.  We heard nothing save a few stray notes from
+a flying bird, or the din of the caravans as the men sang, or
+hummed, or conversed, or shouted, as the thought struck them that
+we were nearing water.  One of my pagazis, wearied and sick, fell,
+and never rose again.  The last of the caravan passed him before
+he died.
+
+At 7 A.M. we were encamped at Nyambwa, drinking the excellent
+water found here with the avidity of thirsty camels.  Extensive
+fields of grain had heralded the neighbourhood of the villages,
+at the sight of which we were conscious that the caravan was
+quickening its pace, as approaching its halting-place.  As the
+Wasungu drew within the populated area, crowds of Wagogo used their
+utmost haste to see them before they passed by.  Young and old of
+both genders pressed about us in a multitude--a very howling mob.
+This excessive demonstrativeness elicited from my sailor overseer
+the characteristic remark, " Well, I declare, these must be the
+genuine Ugogians, for they stare! stare--there is no end to their
+staring.  I'm almost tempted to slap 'em in the face!" In fact,
+the conduct of the Wagogo of Nyambwa was an exaggeration of the
+general conduct of Wagogo.  Hitherto, those we had met had
+contented themselves with staring and shouting; but these outstepped
+all bounds, and my growing anger at their excessive insolence
+vented itself in gripping the rowdiest of them by the neck, and
+before he could recover from his astonishment administering a sound
+thrashing with my dog-whip, which he little relished.  This
+proceeding educed from the tribe of starers all their native power
+of vituperation and abuse, in expressing which they were peculiar.
+Approaching in manner to angry tom-cats, they jerked their words
+with something of a splitting hiss and a half bark.  The ejaculation,
+as near as I can spell it phonetically, was "hahcht" uttered in a
+shrill crescendo tone.  They paced backwards and forwards, asking
+themselves, "Are the Wagoga to be beaten like slaves by this Musungu?
+A Mgogo is a Mgwana (a free man); he is not used to be beaten,--
+hahcht."  But whenever I made motion, flourishing my whip,
+towards them, these mighty braggarts found it convenient to move
+to respectable distances from the irritated Musungu.
+
+Perceiving that a little manliness and show of power was something
+which the Wagogo long needed, and that in this instance it relieved
+me from annoyance, I had recourse to my whip, whose long lash
+cracked like a pistol shot, whenever they overstepped moderation.
+So long as they continued to confine their obtrusiveness to
+staring, and communicating to each other their opinions respecting
+my complexion, and dress, and accoutrements, I philosophically
+resigned myself in silence for their amusement; but when they
+pressed on me, barely allowing me to proceed, a few vigorous and
+rapid slashes right and left with my serviceable thong, soon
+cleared the track.
+
+Pembera Pereh is a queer old man, very small, and would be very
+insignificant were he not the greatest sultan in Ugogo; and
+enjoying a sort of dimediate power over many other tribes.
+Though such an important chief, he is the meanest dressed of
+his subjects,--is always filthy,--ever greasy--eternally foul
+about the mouth; but these are mere eccentricities: as a wise
+judge, he is without parallel, always has a dodge ever ready for
+the abstraction of cloth from the spiritless Arab merchants, who
+trade with Unyanyembe every year; and disposes with ease of a
+judicial case which would overtask ordinary men.
+
+Sheikh Hamed, who was elected guider of the united caravans now
+travelling through Ugogo, was of such a fragile and small make,
+that he might be taken for an imitation of his famous prototype
+"Dapper."  Being of such dimensions, what he lacked for weight
+and size he made up by activity.  No sooner had he arrived in
+camp than his trim dapper form was seen frisking about from side
+to side of the great boma, fidgeting, arranging, disturbing
+everything and everybody.  He permitted no bales or packs to be
+intermingled, or to come into too close proximity to his own;
+he had a favourite mode of stacking his goods, which he would
+see carried out; he had a special eye for the best place for
+his tent, and no one else must trespass on that ground.  One
+would imagine that walking ten or fifteen miles a day, he would
+leave such trivialities to his servants, but no, nothing could
+be right unless he had personally superintended it; in which
+work he was tireless and knew no fatigue.
+
+Another not uncommon peculiarity pertained to Sheikh Hamed; as
+he was not a rich man, he laboured hard to make the most of every
+shukka and doti expended, and each fresh expenditure seemed to
+gnaw his very vitals: he was ready to weep, as he himself
+expressed it, at the high prices of Ugogo, and the extortionate
+demands of its sultans.  For this reason, being the leader of
+the caravans, so far as he was able we were very sure not to
+be delayed in Ugogo, where food was so dear.
+
+The day we arrived at Nyambwa will be remembered by Hamed as long
+as he lives, for the trouble and vexation which he suffered.  His
+misfortunes arose from the fact that, being too busily engaged in
+fidgeting about the camp, he permitted his donkeys to stray into
+the matama fields of Pembera Pereh, the Sultan.  For hours he and
+his servants sought for the stray donkeys, returning towards
+evening utterly unsuccessful, Hamed bewailing, as only an
+Oriental can do, when hard fate visits him with its inflictions,
+the loss of a hundred do dollars worth of Muscat donkeys.
+Sheikh Thani, older, more experienced, and wiser, suggested to
+him that he should notify the Sultan of his loss.  Acting upon
+the sagacious advice, Hamed sent an embassy of two slaves, and
+the information they brought back was, that Pembera Pereh's
+servants had found the two donkeys eating the unripened matama,
+and that unless the Arab who owned them would pay nine doti of
+first-class cloths, he, Pembera Pereh, would surely keep them
+to remunerate him for the matama they had eaten.  Hamed was
+in despair.  Nine doti of first-class cloths, worth $25 in
+Unyanyembe, for half a chukka's worth of grain, was, as he thought,
+an absurd demand; but then if he did not pay it, what would
+become of the hundred dollars' worth of donkeys?  He proceeded to
+the Sultan to show him the absurdity of the damage claim, and to
+endeavour to make him accept one chukka, which would be more than
+double the worth of what grain the donkeys had consumed.  But the
+Sultan was sitting on pombe; he was drunk, which I believe to be
+his normal state--too drunk to attend to business, consequently his
+deputy, a renegade Mnyamwezi, gave ear to the business.  With most
+of the Wagogo chiefs lives a Mnyamwezi, as their right-hand man,
+prime minister, counsellor, executioner, ready man at all things
+save the general good; a sort of harlequin Unyamwezi, who is such
+an intriguing, restless, unsatisfied person, that as soon as one
+hears that this kind of man forms one of and the chief of a Mgogo
+sultan's council, one feels very much tempted to do damage to his
+person.  Most of the extortions practised upon the Arabs are
+suggested by these crafty renegades.  Sheikh Hamed found that
+the Mnyamwezi was far more obdurate than the Sultan--nothing under
+nine doti first-class cloths would redeem the donkeys.  The
+business that day remained unsettled, and the night following
+was, as one may imagine, a very sleepless one to Hamed.  As it
+turned out, however, the loss of the donkeys, the after heavy fine,
+and the sleepless night, proved to be blessings in disguise; for,
+towards midnight, a robber Mgogo visited his camp, and while
+attempting to steal a bale of cloth, was detected in the act
+by the wide-awake and irritated Arab, and was made to vanish
+instantly with a bullet whistling in close proximity to his ear.
+
+From each of the principals of the caravans, the Mnyamwezi had
+received as tribute for his drunken master fifteen doti, and from
+the other six caravans six doti each, altogether fifty-one doti,
+yet on the next morning when we took the road he was not a whit
+disposed to deduct a single cloth from the fine imposed on Hamed,
+and the unfortunate Sheikh was therefore obliged to liquidate the
+claim, or leave his donkeys behind.
+
+After travelling through the corn-fields of Pembera Pereh we
+emerged upon a broad flat plain, as level as the still surface of
+a pond, whence the salt of the Wagogo is obtained.  From Kanyenyi
+on the southern road, to beyond the confines of Uhumba and Ubanarama,
+this saline field extends, containing many large ponds of salt
+bitter water whose low banks are covered with an effervescence
+partaking of the nature of nitrate.  Subsequently, two days
+afterwards, having ascended the elevated ridge which separates
+Ugogo from Uyanzi, I obtained a view of this immense saline plain,
+embracing over a hundred square miles.  I may have been deceived,
+but I imagined I saw large expanses of greyish-blue water,
+which causes me to believe that this salina is but a corner of a
+great salt lake.  The Wahumba, who are numerous, from Nyambwa to
+the Uyanzi border, informed my soldiers that there was a "Maji
+Kuba" away to the north.
+
+Mizanza, our next camp after Nyambwa, is situated in a grove of
+palms, about thirteen miles from the latter place.  Soon after
+arriving I had to bury myself under blankets, plagued with the
+same intermittent fever which first attacked me during the transit
+of Marenga Mkali.  Feeling certain that one day's halt, which would
+enable me to take regular doses of the invaluable sulphate of
+quinine, would cure me, I requested Sheikh Thani to tell Hamed to
+halt on the morrow, as I should be utterly unable to continue thus
+long, under repeated attacks of a virulent disease which was fast
+reducing me into a mere frame of skin and bone.  Hamed, in a hurry
+to arrive at Unyanyembe in order to dispose of his cloth before
+other caravans appeared in the market, replied at first that he
+would not, that he could not, stop for the Musungu.  Upon Thani's
+reporting his answer to me, I requested him to inform Hamed that,
+as the Musungu did not wish to detain him, or any other caravan,
+it was his express wish that Hamed would march and leave him,
+as he was quite strong enough in guns to march through Ugogo
+alone.  Whatever cause modified the Sheikh's resolution and his
+anxiety to depart, Hamed's horn signal for the march was not
+heard that night, and on the morrow he had not gone.
+
+Early in the morning I commenced on my quinine doses; at 6 A.M.
+I took a second dose; before noon I had taken four more--
+altogether, fifty measured grains-the effect of which was
+manifest in the copious perspiration which drenched flannels,
+linen, and blankets.  After noon I arose, devoutly thankful
+that the disease which had clung to me for the last fourteen
+days had at last succumbed to quinine.
+
+On this day the lofty tent, and the American flag which ever flew
+from the centre pole, attracted the Sultan of Mizanza towards it,
+and was the cause of a visit with which he honoured me.  As he was
+notorious among the Arabs for having assisted Manwa Sera in his war
+against Sheikh Sny bin Amer, high eulogies upon whom have been
+written by Burton, and subsequently by Speke, and as he was the
+second most powerful chief in Ugogo, of course he was quite a
+curiosity to me.  As the tent-door was uplifted that he might
+enter, the ancient gentleman was so struck with astonishment at
+the lofty apex, and internal arrangements, that the greasy Barsati
+cloth which formed his sole and only protection against the chills
+of night and the heat of noon, in a fit of abstraction was
+permitted to fall down to his feet, exposing to the Musungu's
+unhallowed gaze the sad and aged wreck of what must once have been
+a towering form.  His son, a youth of about fifteen, attentive to
+the infirmities of his father, hastened with filial duty to remind
+him of his condition, upon which, with an idiotic titter at the
+incident, he resumed his scanty apparel and sat down to wonder and
+gibber out his admiration at the tent and the strange things which
+formed the Musungu's personal baggage and furniture.  After gazing
+in stupid wonder at the table, on which was placed some crockery
+and the few books I carried with me; at the slung hammock, which
+he believed was suspended by some magical contrivance; at the
+portmanteaus which contained my stock of clothes, he ejaculated,
+"Hi-le! the Musungu is a great sultan, who has come from his
+country to see Ugogo."  He then noticed me, and was again wonder-
+struck at my pale complexion and straight hair, and the question
+now propounded was, "How on earth was I white when the sun had
+burned his people's skins into blackness?" Whereupon he was
+shown my cork topee, which he tried on his woolly head, much
+to his own and to our amusement.  The guns were next shown to
+him; the wonderful repeating rifle of the Winchester Company,
+which was fired thirteen times in rapid succession to demonstrate
+its remarkable murderous powers.  If he was astonished before
+he was a thousand times more so now, and expressed his belief
+that the Wagogo could not stand before the Musungu in battle,
+for wherever a Mgogo was seen such a gun would surely kill him.
+Then the other firearms were brought forth, each with its
+peculiar mechanism explained, until, in, a burst of enthusiasm
+at my riches and power, he said he would send me a sheep or goat,
+and that he would be my brother.  I thanked him for the honour,
+and promised to accept whatever he was pleased to send me.  At
+the instigation of Sheikh Thani, who acted as interpreter, who
+said that Wagogo chiefs must not depart with empty hands, I cut
+off a shukka of Kaniki and presented it to him, which, after
+being examined and measured, was refused upon the ground that,
+the Musungu being a great sultan should not demean himself so much
+as to give him only a shukka.  This, after the twelve doti
+received as muhongo from the caravans, I thought, was rather
+sore; but as he was about to present me with a sheep or goat
+another shukka would not matter much.
+
+Shortly after he departed, and true to his promise, I received
+a large, fine sheep, with a broad tail, heavy with fat; but with
+the words, :"That being now his brother, I must send him three
+doti of good cloth." As the price of a sheep is but a doti and
+a half, I refused the sheep and the fraternal honour, upon the
+ground that the gifts were all on one side; and that, as I had
+paid muhongo, and given him a doti of Kaniki as a present, I
+could not, afford to part with any more cloth without an
+adequate return.
+
+During the afternoon one more of my donkeys died, and at night the
+hyaenas came in great numbers to feast upon the carcase.  Ulimengo,
+the chasseur, and best shot of my Wangwana, stole out and succeeded
+in shooting two, which turned out to be some of the largest of
+their kind..  One of them measured six feet from the tip of the
+nose to the extremity of the tail, and three feet around the
+girth.
+
+On the 4th. June we struck camp, and after travelling westward for
+about three miles, passing several ponds of salt water, we headed
+north by west, skirting the range of low hills which separates
+Ugogo from Uyanzi.
+
+After a three hours' march, we halted for a short time at Little
+Mukondoku, to settle tribute with the brother of him who rules at
+Mukondoku Proper.  Three doti satisfied the Sultan, whose
+district contains but two villages, mostly occupied by pastoral
+Wahumba and renegade Wahehe.  The Wahumba live in plastered
+(cow-dung) cone huts, shaped like the tartar tents of Turkestan.
+
+The Wahumba, so far as I have seen them, are a fine and well-formed
+race.  The men are positively handsome, tall, with small heads,
+the posterior parts of which project considerably.  One will look
+in vain for a thick lip or a flat nose amongst them; on the
+contrary, the mouth is exceedingly well cut, delicately small;
+the nose is that of the Greeks, and so universal was the peculiar
+feature, that I at once named them the Greeks of Africa.  Their
+lower limbs have not the heaviness of the Wagogo and other tribes,
+but are long and shapely, clean as those of an antelope.  Their
+necks are long and slender, on which their small heads are poised
+most gracefully.  Athletes from their youth, shepherd bred, and
+intermarrying among themselves, thus keeping the race pure, any
+of them would form a fit subject for the sculptor who would wish
+to immortalize in marble an Antinous, a Hylas, a Daphnis, or an
+Apollo.  The women are as beautiful as the men are handsome.
+They have clear ebon skins, not coal-black, but of an inky hue.
+Their ornaments consist of spiral rings of brass pendent from the
+ears, brass ring collars about the necks, and a spiral cincture
+of brass wire about their loins for the purpose of retaining
+their calf and goat skins, which are folded about their bodies,
+and, depending from the shoulder, shade one half of the bosom,
+and fall to the knees.
+
+The Wahehe may be styled the Romans of Africa.  Resuming our
+march, after a halt of an hour, in foul hours more we arrived at
+Mukondoku Proper.  This extremity of Ugogo is most populous, The
+villages which surround the central tembe, where the Sultan Swaruru
+lives, amount to thirty-six.  The people who flocked from these to
+see the wonderful men whose faces were white, who wore the most
+wonderful things on their persons, and possessed the most wonderful
+weapons; guns which "bum-bummed" as fast as you could count on
+your fingers, formed such a mob of howling savages, that I for an
+instant thought there was something besides mere curiosity which
+caused such commotion, and attracted such numbers to the roadside.
+Halting, I asked what was the matter, and what they wanted, and
+why they made such noise?  One burly rascal, taking my words for
+a declaration of hostilities, promptly drew his bow, but as
+prompt as he had fixed his arrow my faithful Winchester with
+thirteen shots in the magazine was ready and at the shoulder,
+and but waited to see the arrow fly to pour the leaden messengers
+of death into the crowd.  But the crowd vanished as quickly as
+they had come, leaving the burly Thersites, and two or three
+irresolute fellows of his tribe, standing within pistol range
+of my levelled rifle.  Such a sudden dispersion of the mob which,
+but a moment before, was overwhelming in numbers, caused me to
+lower my rifle, and to indulge in a hearty laugh at the disgraceful
+flight of the men-destroyers.  The Arabs, who were as much
+alarmed at their boisterous obtrusiveness, now came up to patch
+a truce, in which they succeeded to everybody's satisfaction.
+A few words of explanation, and the mob came back in greater
+numbers than before; and the Thersites who had been the cause
+of the momentary disturbance was obliged to retire abashed
+before the pressure of public opinion.  A chief now came up,
+whom I afterwards learned was the second man to Swaruru, and
+lectured the people upon their treatment of the "White Stranger."
+
+"Know ye not, Wagogo," shouted he, "that this Musungu is a
+sultan (mtemi--a most high title).  He has not come to Ugogo
+like the Wakonongo (Arabs), to trade in ivory, but to see us,
+and give presents.  Why do you molest him and his people?
+Let them pass in peace.  If you wish to see him, draw near,
+but do not mock him.  The first of you who creates a disturbance,
+let him beware; our great mtemi shall know how you treat his
+friends."  This little bit of oratorical effort on the part of
+the chief was translated to me there and then by the old Sheik
+Thani; which having understood, I bade the Sheikh inform the
+chief that, after I had rested, I should like him to visit me
+in my tent.
+
+Having arrived at the khambi, which always surrounds some great
+baobab in Ugogo, at the distance of about half a mile from the
+tembe of the Sultan, the Wagogo pressed in such great numbers to
+the camp that Sheikh Thani resolved to make an effort to stop or
+mitigate the nuisance.  Dressing himself in his best clothes, he
+went to appeal to the Sultan for protection against his people.
+The Sultan was very much inebriated, and was pleased to say,
+"What is it you want, you thief?  You have come to steal my
+ivory or my cloth.  Go away, thief!"  But the sensible chief,
+whose voice had just been heard reproaching the people for their
+treatment of the Wasungu, beckoned to Thani to come out of the
+tembe, and then proceeded with him towards the khambi.
+
+The camp was in a great uproar; the curious Wagogo monopolized
+almost every foot of ground; there was no room to turn anywhere.
+The Wanyamwezi were quarreling with the Wagogo, the Wasawahili
+servants were clamoring loud that the Wagogo pressed down their
+tents, and that the property of the masters was in danger; while
+I, busy on my diary within my tent, cared not how great was the
+noise and confusion outside as long as it confined itself to the
+Wagogo, Wanyamwezi, and Wangwana.
+
+The presence of the chief in the camp was followed by a deep
+silence that I was prevailed upon to go outside to see what had
+caused it.  The chief's words were few, and to the point.  He said,
+"To your tembes, Wagogo--to your tembes!  Why, do you come to
+trouble the Wakonongo: What have you to do with them?  To
+your tembes: go!  Each Mgogo found in the khambi without meal,
+without cattle to sell, shall pay to the mtemi cloth or cows.
+Away with you!"  Saying which, he snatched up a stick and drove the
+hundreds out of the khambi, who were as obedient to him as so many
+children.  During the two days we halted at Mukondoku we saw no
+more of the mob, and there was peace.
+
+The muhongo of the Sultan Swaruru was settled with few words.  The
+chief who acted for the Sultan as his prime minister having been
+"made glad" with a doti of Rehani Ulyah from me, accepted the usual
+tribute of six doti, only one of which was of first-class cloth.
+
+There remained but one more sultan to whom muhongo must be paid
+after Mukondoku, and this was the Sultan of Kiwyeh, whose
+reputation was so bad that owners of property who had control over
+their pagazis seldom passed by Kiwyeh, preferring the hardships of
+long marches through the wilderness to the rudeness and exorbitant
+demands of the chief of Kiwyeh.  But the pagazis, on whom no burden
+or responsibility fell save that of carrying their loads, who
+could use their legs and show clean heels in the case of a hostile
+outbreak, preferred the march to Kiwyeh to enduring thirst and the
+fatigue of a terekeza.  Often the preference of the pagazis won the
+day, when their employers were timid, irresolute men, like Sheikh
+Hamed.
+
+The 7th of June was the day fixed for our departure from Mukondoku,
+so the day before, the Arabs came to my tent to counsel with me
+as to the route we should adopt.  On calling together the kirangozis
+of the respective caravans and veteran Wanyamwezi pagazis, we
+learned there were three roads leading from Mukondoku to Uyanzi.
+The first was the southern road, and the one generally adopted,
+for the reasons already stated, and led by Kiwyeh.  To this
+Hamed raised objections.  "The Sultan was bad," he said; "he
+sometimes charged a caravan twenty doti; our caravan would
+have to pay about sixty doti.  The Kiwyeh road would not do at
+all.  Besides," he added, "we have to make a terekeza to reach
+Kiwyeh, and then we will not reach it before the day after
+to-morrow."  The second was the central road.  We should arrive
+at Munieka on the morrow; the day after would be a terekeza from
+Mabunguru Nullah to a camp near Unyambogi; two hours the next
+day would bring us to Kiti, where there was plenty of water and
+food.  As neither of the kirangozis or Arabs knew this road, and
+its description came from one of my ancient pagazis, Hamed said he
+did not like to trust the guidance of such a large caravan in the
+hands of an old Mnyamwezi, and would therefore prefer to hear about
+the third road, before rendering his decision.  The third road was
+the northern.  It led past numerous villages of the Wagogo for the
+first two hours; then we should strike a jungle; and a three
+hours' march would then bring us to Simbo, where there was water,
+but no village.  Starting early next morning, we would travel six
+hours when we would arrive at a pool of water.  Here taking a short
+rest, an afternoon march of five hours would bring us within three
+hours of another village.  As this last road was known to many,
+Hamed said, "Sheikh Thani, tell the Sahib that I think this is the
+best road."  Sheikh Thani was told, after he had informed me that,
+as I had marched with them through Ugogo, if they decided upon
+going by Simbo, my caravan would follow.
+
+Immediately after the discussion among the principals respecting
+the merits of the several routes, arose a discussion among the
+pagazis which resulted in an obstinate clamor against the Simbo
+road, for its long terekeza and scant prospects of water, the
+dislike to the Simbo road communicated itself to all the caravans,
+and soon it was magnified by reports of a wilderness reaching from
+Simbo to Kusuri, where there was neither food nor water to be
+obtained.  Hamed's pagazis, and those of the Arab servants, rose
+in a body and declared they could not go on that march, and if
+Hamed insisted upon adopting it they would put their packs down
+and leave him to carry them himself.
+
+Hamed Kimiani, as he was styled by the Arabs, rushed up to Sheikh
+Thani, and declared that he must take the Kiwyeh road, otherwise
+his pagazis would all desert.  Thani replied that all the roads
+were the same to him, that wherever Hamed chose to go, he would
+follow.  They then came to my tent, and informed me of the
+determination at which the Wanyamwezi had arrived.  Calling my
+veteran Mnyamwezi, who had given me the favourable report once
+more to my tent, I bade him give a correct account of the Kiti
+road.  It was so favourable that my reply to Hamed was, that I
+was the master of my caravan, that it was to go wherever I told
+the kirangozi, not where the pagazis chose; that when I told
+them to halt they must halt, and when I commanded a march, a
+march should be made; and that as I fed them well and did not
+overwork them, I should like to see the pagazi or soldier that
+disobeyed me.  "You made up your mind just now that you would take
+the Simbo road, and we were agreed upon it, now your pagazis say
+they will take, the Kiwyeh road, or desert.  Go on the Kiwyeh road
+and pay twenty doti muhongo.  I and my caravan to-morrow morning
+will take the Kiti road, and when you find me in Unyanyembe
+one day ahead of you, you will be sorry you did not take the same
+road."
+
+This resolution of mine had the effect of again changing the
+current of Hamed's thoughts, for he instantly said, "That is the
+best road after all, and as the Sahib is determined to go on it,
+and we have all travelled together through the bad land of the
+Wagogo, Inshallah!  let us all go the same way," and Thani=-good
+old man--not objecting, and Hamed having decided, they both
+joyfully went out of the tent to communicate the news.
+
+On the 7th the caravans--apparently unanimous that the Kiti road
+was to be taken--were led as usual by Hamed's kirangozi.  We had
+barely gone a mile before I perceived that we had left the Simbo
+road, had taken the direction of Kiti, and, by a cunning detour,
+were now fast approaching the defile of the mountain ridge before
+us, which admitted access to the higher plateau of Kiwyeh.
+Instantly halting my caravan, I summoned the veteran who had
+travelled by Kiti, and asked him whether we were not going towards
+Kiwyeh.  He replied that we were.  Calling my pagazis together,
+I bade Bombay tell them that the Musuugu never changed his mind;
+that as I had said my caravan should march by Kiti; to Kiti it
+must go whether the Arabs followed or not.  I then ordered the
+veteran to take up his load and show the kirangozi the proper road
+to Kiti.  The Wanyamwezi pagazis put down their bales, and then
+there was every indication of a mutiny.  The Wangwana soldiers
+were next ordered to load their guns and to flank the caravan, and
+shoot the first pagazis who made an attempt to run away.
+Dismounting, I seized my whip, and, advancing towards the first
+pagazi who had put down his load, I motioned to him to take up his
+load and march.  It was unnecessary to proceed further; without
+an exception, all marched away obediently after the kirangozi.
+I was about bidding farewell to Thani, and Hamed, when Thani said,
+"Stop a bit, Sahib; I have had enough of this child's play; I come
+with you," and his caravan was turned after mine.  Hamed's caravan
+was by this time close to the defile, and he himself was a full
+mile behind it, weeping like a child at what he was pleased to call
+our desertion of him.  Pitying his strait--for he was almost beside
+himself as thoughts of Kiwyeh's sultan, his extortion and rudeness,
+swept across his mind--I advised him to run after his caravan,
+and tell it, as all the rest had taken the other road, to think
+of the Sultan of Kiwyeh.  Before reaching the Kiti defile I was
+aware that Hamed's caravan was following us.
+
+The ascent of the ridge was rugged and steep, thorns of the
+prickliest nature punished us severely, the _acacia horrida_ was
+here more horrid than usual, the gums stretched out their branches,
+and entangled the loads, the mimosa with its umbrella-like top
+served to shade us from the sun, but impeded a rapid advance.
+Steep outcrops of syenite and granite, worn smooth by many feet,
+had to be climbed over, rugged terraces of earth and rock had to
+be ascended, and distant shots resounding through the forest added
+to the alarm and general discontent, and had I not been immediately
+behind my caravan, watchful of every manoeuvre, my Wanyamwezi
+had deserted to a man.  Though the height we ascended was barely
+800 feet above the salina we had just left, the ascent occupied
+two hours.
+
+Having surmounted the plateau and the worst difficulties, we had
+a fair road comparatively, which ran through jungle, forest, and
+small open tracts, which in three hours more brought us to Munieka,
+a small village, surrounded by a clearing richly cultivated by a
+colony of subjects of Swaruru of Mukondoku.
+
+By the time we had arrived at camp everybody had recovered his
+good humour and content except Hamed.  Thani's men happened to set
+his tent too close to Hamed's tree, around which his bales were
+stacked.  Whether the little Sheikh imagined honest old Thani
+capable of stealing one is not known, but it is certain that he
+stormed and raved about the near neighbourhood of his best friend's
+tent, until Thani ordered its removal a hundred yards off.  This
+proceeding even, it seems, did not satisfy Hamed, for it was quite
+midnight--as Thani said--when Hamed came, and kissing his hands
+and feet, on his knees implored forgiveness, which of course Thani,
+being the soul of good-nature, and as large-hearted as any man,
+willingly gave.  Hamed was not satisfied, however, until, with the
+aid of his slaves, he had transported his friend's tent to where it
+had at first been pitched.
+
+The water at Munieka was obtained from a deep depression in a hump
+of syenite, and was as clear as crystal, and' cold as ice-water--a
+luxury we had not experienced since leaving Simbamwenni.
+
+We were now on the borders of Uyanzi, or, as it is better known,
+"Magunda Mkali "--the Hot-ground, or Hot-field.  We had passed the
+village populated by Wagogo, and were about to shake the dust of
+Ugogo from our feet.  We had entered Ugogo full of hopes, believing
+it a most pleasant land--a land flowing with milk and honey.  We
+had been grievously disappointed; it proved to be a land of gall
+and bitterness, full of trouble and vexation of spirit, where
+danger was imminent at every step--where we were exposed to the
+caprice of inebriated sultans.  Is it a wonder, then, that all
+felt happy at such a moment?  With the prospect before us of
+what was believed by many to be a real wilderness, our ardor
+was not abated, but was rather strengthened.  The wilderness
+in Africa proves to be, in many instances, more friendly than
+the populated country.  The kirangozi blew his kudu horn much
+more merrily on this morning than he was accustomed to do while
+in Ugogo.  We were about to enter Magunda Mkali.  At 9 A.M.,
+three hours after leaving Munieka, and two hours since we had
+left the extreme limits of Ugogo, we were halted at Mabunguru
+Nullah.  The Nullah runs southwesterly after leaving its source in
+the chain of hills dividing Ugogo from Magunda Mkali.  During the
+rainy season it must be nearly impassable, owing to the excessive
+slope of its bed.  Traces of the force of the torrent are seen in
+the syenite and basalt boulders which encumber the course.  Their
+rugged angles are worn smooth, and deep basins are excavated where
+the bed is of the rock, which in the dry season serve as reservoirs.
+Though the water contained in them has a slimy and greenish
+appearance, and is well populated with frogs, it is by no means
+unpalatable.
+
+At noon we resumed our march, the Wanyamwezi cheering, shouting,
+and singing, the Wangwana soldiers, servants, and pagazis vieing
+with them in volume of voice and noise-making the dim forest
+through which we were now passing resonant with their voices.
+
+The scenery was much more picturesque than any we had yet seen
+since leaving Bagamoyo.  The ground rose into grander waves--hills
+cropped out here and there--great castles of syenite appeared,
+giving a strange and weird appearance to the forest.  From a
+distance it would almost seem as if we were approaching a bit of
+England as it must have appeared during feudalism; the rocks
+assumed such strange fantastic shapes.  Now they were round
+boulders raised one above another, apparently susceptible to every
+breath of wind; anon, they towered like blunt-pointed obelisks,
+taller than the tallest trees; again they assumed the shape of
+mighty waves, vitrified; here, they were a small heap of fractured
+and riven rock; there, they rose to the grandeur of hills.
+
+By  5 P.M. we had travelled twenty miles, and the signal was
+sounded for a halt.  At 1 A.M., the moon being up, Hamed's horn and
+voice were heard throughout the silent camp awaking his pagazis for
+the march.  Evidently Sheikh Hamed was gone stark mad, otherwise
+why should he be so frantic for the march at such an early hour?
+The dew was falling heavily, and chilled one like frost; and an
+ominous murmur of deep discontent responded to the early call on
+all sides.  Presuming, however, that he had obtained better
+information than we had, Sheikh Thani and I resolved to be governed
+as the events proved him to be right or wrong.
+
+As all were discontented, this night, march was performed in deep
+silence.  The thermometer was at 53°, we being about 4,500 feet
+above the level of the sea.  The pagazis, almost naked, walked
+quickly in order to keep warm, and by so doing many a sore foot
+was made by stumbling against obtrusive roots and rocks, and
+treading on thorns.  At 3 A.M.  we arrived at the village of
+Unyambogi, where we threw ourselves down to rest and sleep until
+dawn should reveal what else was in store for the hard-dealt-with
+caravans.
+
+It was broad daylight when I awoke; the sun was flaring his hot
+beams in my face.  Sheikh Thani came soon after to inform me that
+Hamed had gone to Kiti two hours since; but he, when asked to
+accompany him, positively refused, exclaiming against it as
+folly, and utterly unnecessary.  When my advice was asked by
+Thani, I voted the whole thing as sheer nonsense; and, in turn,
+asked him what a terekeza was for?  Was it not an afternoon march
+to enable caravans to reach water and food?  Thani replied than it
+was.  I then asked him if there was no water or food to be obtained
+in Unyambogi.  Thani replied that he had not taken pains to
+inquire, but was told by the villagers that there was an abundance
+of matamia, hindi, maweri, sheep; goats, and chickens in their
+village at cheap prices, such as were not known in Ugogo.
+
+"Well, then," said I, "if Hamed wants to be a fool, and kill his
+pagazis, why should we?  I have as much cause for haste as Sheikh
+Hamed; but Unyanyembe is far yet, and I am not going to endanger
+my property by playing the madman."
+
+As Thani had reported, we found an abundance of provisions at the
+village, and good sweet water from some pits close by.  A sheep
+cost one chukka; six chickens were also purchased at that price;
+six measures of matama, maweri, or hindi, were procurable for the
+same sum; in short, we were coming, at last, into the land of
+plenty.
+
+On the 10th June we arrived at Kiti after a journey of four hours
+and a half, where we found the irrepressible Hamed halted in sore
+trouble.  He who would be a Caesar, proved to be an irresolute
+Antony.  He had to sorrow over the death of a favourite slave girl,
+the loss of five dish-dashes (Arab shirts), silvered-sleeve and
+gold-embroidered jackets, with which he had thought to enter
+Unyanyembe in state, as became a merchant of his standing, which
+had disappeared with three absconding servants, besides copper
+trays, rice, and pilau dishes, and two bales of cloth with runaway
+Wangwana pagazis.  Selim, my Arab servant, asked him, "What are
+you doing here, Sheikh Hamed?  I thought you were well on the road
+to Unyanyembe."  Said he, "Could I leave Thani, my friend, behind?"
+
+Kiti abounded in cattle and grain, and we were able to obtain food
+at easy rates.  The Wakimbu, emigrants from Ukimbu, near Urori,
+are a quiet race, preferring the peaceful arts of agriculture to
+war; of tending their flocks to conquest.  At the least rumor of
+war they remove their property and family, and emigrate to the
+distant wilderness, where they begin to clear the land, and to
+hunt the elephant for his ivory.  Yet we found them to be a fine
+race, and well armed, and seemingly capable, by their numbers and
+arms, to compete with any tribe.  But here, as elsewhere, disunion
+makes them weak.  They are mere small colonies, each colony ruled
+by its own chief; whereas, were they united, they might make a
+very respectable front before an enemy.
+
+Our next destination was Msalalo, distant fifteen miles from Kiti.
+Hamed, after vainly searching for his runaways and the valuable
+property he had lost, followed us, and tried once more, when he
+saw us encamped at Msalalo, to pass us; but his pagazis failed him,
+the march having been so long.
+
+Welled Ngaraiso was reached on the 15th, after a three and a half
+hours' march.  It is a flourishing little place, where provisions
+were almost twice as cheap as they were at Unyambogi.  Two hours'
+march south is Jiweh la Mkoa, on the old road, towards which the
+road which we have been travelling since leaving Bagamoyo was now
+rapidly leading.
+
+Unyanyembe being near, the pagazis and soldiers having behaved
+excellently during the lengthy marches we had lately made, I
+purchased a bullock for three doti, and had it slaughtered for
+their special benefit.  I also gave each a khete of red beads to
+indulge his appetite for whatever little luxury the country
+afforded.  Milk and honey were plentiful, and three frasilah of
+sweet potatoes were bought for a shukka, equal to about 40 cents of
+our money.
+
+The 13th June brought us to the last village of Magunda Mkali, in
+the district of Jiweh la Singa, after a short march of eight miles
+and three-quarters.  Kusuri--so called by the Arabs--is called
+Konsuli by the Wakimbu who inhabit it.  This is, however, but one
+instance out of many where the Arabs have misnamed or corrupted
+the native names of villages and districts.
+
+Between Ngaraiso and Kusuri we passed the village of Kirurumo, now
+a thriving place, with many a thriving village near it.  As we
+passed it, the people came out to greet the Musungu, whose advent
+had been so long heralded by his loud-mouthed caravans, and whose
+soldiers had helped them win the day in a battle against their
+fractious brothers of Jiweh la Mkoa.
+
+A little further on we came across a large khambi, occupied by
+Sultan bin Mohammed, an Omani Arab of high descent, who, as soon as
+he was notified of my approach, came out to welcome me, and invite
+me to his khambi.  As his harem lodged in his tent, of course I was
+not invited thither; but a carpet outside was ready for his visitor.
+After the usual questions had been asked about my health, the news
+of the road, the latest from Zanzibar and Oman, he asked me if I
+had much cloth with me.  This was a question often asked by owners
+of down caravans, and the reason of it is that the Arabs, in their
+anxiety to make as much as possible of their cloth at the ivory
+ports on the Tanganika and elsewhere, are liable to forget that
+they should retain a portion for the down marches.  As, indeed,
+I had but a bale left of the quantity of cloth retained for
+provisioning my party on the road, when outfitting my caravans
+on the coast, I could unblushingly reply in the negative.
+
+I halted a day at Kusuri to give my caravan a rest, after its
+long series of marches, before venturing on the two days' march
+through the uninhabited wilderness that separates the district of
+Jiweh la Singa Uyanzi from the district of Tura in Unyanyembe.
+Hamed preceded, promising to give Sayd bin Salim notice of my
+coming, and to request him to provide a tembe for me.
+
+On the 15th, having ascertained that Sheikh Thani would be detained
+several days at Kusuri, owing to the excessive number of his people
+who were laid up with that dreadful plague of East Africa, the
+small-pox, I bade him farewell, and my caravan struck out of
+Kusuri once more for the wilderness and the jungle.  A little
+before noon we halted at the Khambi of Mgongo Tembo, or the
+Elephant's Back--so called from a wave of rock whose back, stained
+into dark brownness by atmospheric influences, is supposed by the
+natives to resemble the blue-brown back of this monster of the
+forest.  My caravan had quite an argument with me here, as to
+whether we should make the terekeza on this day or on the next.
+The majority was of the opinion that the next day would be the
+best for a terekeza; but I, being the "bana," consulting my
+own interests, insisted, not without a flourish or two of my
+whip, that the terekeza should be made on this day.
+
+Mgongo Tembo, when Burton and Speke passed by, was a promising
+settlement, cultivating many a fair acre of ground.  But two years
+ago war broke out, for some bold act of its people upon caravans,
+and the Arabs came from Unyanyembe with their Wangwana servants,
+attacked them, burnt the villages, and laid waste the work of
+years.  Since that time Mgongo Tembo has been but blackened wrecks
+of houses, and the fields a sprouting jungle.
+
+A cluster of date palm-trees, overtopping a dense grove close to
+the mtoni of Mgongo Tembo, revived my recollections of Egypt.
+The banks of the stream, with their verdant foliage, presented
+a strange contrast to the brown and dry appearance of the jungle
+which lay on either side.
+
+At 1 P.M.  we resumed our loads and walking staffs, and in a short
+time were en route for the Ngwhalah Mtoni, distant eight and
+three-quarter miles from the khambi.  The sun was hot; like a
+globe of living, seething flame, it flared its heat full on our
+heads; then as it descended towards the west, scorched the air
+before it was inhaled by the lungs which craved it.  Gourds of
+water were emptied speedily to quench the fierce heat that
+burned the throat and lungs.  One pagazi, stricken heavily with the
+small-pox, succumbed, and threw himself down on the roadside to die.
+We never saw him afterwards, for the progress of a caravan on a
+terekeza, is something like that of a ship in a hurricane.  The
+caravan must proceed--woe befall him who lags behind, for hunger
+and thirst will overtake him--so must a ship drive before the
+fierce gale to escape foundering--woe befall him who falls
+overboard!
+
+An abundance of water, good, sweet, and cool, was found in the bed
+of the mtoni in deep stony reservoirs.  Here also the traces of
+furious torrents were clearly visible as at Mabunguru.
+
+The Nghwhalah commences in Ubanarama to the north--a country
+famous for its fine breed of donkeys--and after running south,
+south-south-west, crosses the Unyanyembe road, from which point
+it has more of a westerly turn.
+
+On the 16th we arrived at Madedita, so called from a village which
+was, but is now no more.  Madedita is twelve and a half miles from
+the Nghwhalah Mtoni.  A pool of good water a few hundred yards from
+the roadside is the only supply caravans can obtain, nearer than
+Tura in Unyamwezi.  The tsetse or chufwa-fly, as called by the
+Wasawahili, stung us dreadfully, which is a sign that large game
+visit the pool sometimes, but must not be mistaken for an indication
+that there is any in the immediate neighbourhood of the water.
+A single pool so often frequented by passing caravans, which must
+of necessity halt here, could not be often visited by the animals
+of the forest, who are shy in this part of Africa of the haunts
+of man.
+
+At dawn the neat day we were on the road striding at a quicker
+pace than on most days, since we were about to quit Magunda Mali
+for the more populated and better land of Unyamwezi.  The forest
+held its own for a wearisomely long time, but at the end of two
+hours it thinned, then dwarfed into low jungle, and finally
+vanished altogether, and we had arrived on the soil of Unyamwezi,
+with a broad plain, swelling, subsiding, and receding in lengthy
+and grand undulations in our front to one indefinite horizontal
+line which purpled in the far distance.  The view consisted of
+fields of grain ripening, which followed the contour of the plain,
+and which rustled merrily before the morning breeze that came
+laden with the chills of Usagara.
+
+At 8 A.M. we had arrived at the frontier village of Unyamwezi,
+Eastern Tura, which we invaded without any regard to the
+disposition of the few inhabitants who lived there.  Here we
+found Nondo, a runaway of Speke's, one of those who had sided
+with Baraka against Bombay, who, desiring to engage himself with
+me,  was engaging enough to furnish honey and sherbet to his
+former companions, and lastly to the pagazis.  It was only a short
+breathing pause we made here, having another hour's march to reach
+Central Tura.
+
+The road from Eastern Tura led through vast fields of millet,
+Indian corn, holcus sorghum, maweri, or panicum, or bajri, as
+called by the Arabs; gardens of sweet potatoes, large tracts of
+cucumbers, water-melons, mush-melons, and pea-nuts which grew in
+the deep furrows between the ridges of the holcus.
+
+Some broad-leafed plantain plants were also seen in the
+neighbourhood of the villages, which as we advanced became very
+numerous.  The villages of the Wakimbu are like those of the
+Wagogo, square, flat-roofed, enclosing an open area, which is
+sometimes divided into three or four parts by fences or matama
+stalks.
+
+At central Tura, where we encamped, we had evidence enough of
+the rascality of the Wakimbu of Tura.  Hamed, who, despite his
+efforts to reach Unyanyembe in time to sell his cloths before other
+Arabs came with cloth supplies, was unable to compel his pagazis
+to the double march every day, was also encamped at Central Tura,
+together with the Arab servants who preferred Hamed's imbecile
+haste to Thani's cautious advance.  Our first night in Unyamwezi
+was very exciting indeed.  The Musungu's camp was visited by two
+crawling thieves, but they were soon made aware by the portentous
+click of a trigger that the white man's camp was well guarded.
+
+Hamed's camp was next visited; but here also the restlessness of
+the owner frustrated their attempts, for he was pacing backwards
+and forwards through his camp, with a loaded gun in his hand; and
+the thieves were obliged to relinquish the chance of stealing any
+of his bales.  From Hamed's they proceeded to Hassan's camp (one
+of the Arab servants), where they were successful enough to reach
+and lay hold of a couple of bales; but, unfortunately, they made
+a  noise, which awoke the vigilant and quick-eared slave, who
+snatched his loaded musket, and in a moment had shot one of them
+through the heart.  Such were our experiences of the Wakimbu of
+Tura.
+
+On the 18th the three caravans, Hamed's, Hassan's, and my own,
+left Tura by a road which zig-zagged towards all points through
+the tall matama fields.  In an hour's time we had passed Tura
+Perro, or Western Tura, and had entered the forest again, whence
+the Wakimbu of Tura obtain their honey, and where they excavate
+deep traps for the elephants with which the forest is said to
+abound.  An hour's march from Western Tura brought us to a ziwa,
+or pond.  There were two, situated in the midst of a small open
+mbuga, or plain, which, even at this late season, was yet soft
+from the water which overflows it during the rainy season.
+After resting three hours, we started on the terekeza,
+or afternoon march.
+
+It was one and the same forest that we had entered soon after
+leaving Western Tura, that we travelled through until we reached
+the Kwala Mtoni, or, as Burton has misnamed it on his map, "Kwale."
+The water of this mtoni is contained in large ponds, or deep
+depressions in the wide and crooked gully of Kwala.  In these
+ponds a species of mud-fish, was found, off one of which I made
+a meal, by no means to be despised by one who had not tasted fish
+since leaving Bagamoyo.  Probably, if I had my choice, being, when
+occasion demands it, rather fastidious in my tastes, I would not
+select the mud-fish.
+
+From Tura to the Kwala Mtoni is seventeen and a half miles,
+a distance which, however easy it may be traversed once a
+fortnight, assumes a prodigious length when one has to travel
+it almost every other day, at least, so my pagazis, soldiers,
+and followers found it, and their murmurs were very loud when
+I ordered the signal to be sounded on the march.  Abdul Kader,
+the tailor who had attached himself to me, as a man ready-handed
+at all things, from mending a pair of pants, making a delicate
+entremets, or shooting an elephant, but whom the interior proved
+to be the weakliest of the weakly, unfit for anything except
+eating and drinking---almost succumbed on this march.
+
+Long ago the little stock of goods which Abdul had brought from
+Zanzibar folded in a pocket-handkerchief, and with which he was
+about to buy ivory and slaves, and make his fortune in the famed
+land of Unyamwezi, had disappeared with the great eminent hopes he
+had built on them, like those of Alnaschar the unfortunate owner
+of crockery in the Arabian tale.  He came to me as we prepared for
+the march, with a most dolorous tale about his approaching death,
+which he felt in his bones, and weary back: his legs would barely
+hold him up; in short, he had utterly collapsed--would I take
+mercy on him, and let him depart?  The cause of this extraordinary
+request, so unlike the spirit with which he had left Zanzibar,
+eager to possess the ivory and slaves of Unyamwezi, was that on
+the last long march, two of my donkeys being dead, I had ordered
+that the two saddles which they had carried should be Abdul Kader's
+load to Unyanyembe.  The weight of the saddles was 16 lbs., as
+the spring balance-scale indicated, yet Abdul Kader became
+weary of life, as, he counted the long marches that intervened
+between the mtoni and Unyanyembe.  On the ground he fell prone,
+to kiss my feet, begging me in the name of God to permit him to
+depart.
+
+As I had had some experience of Hindoos, Malabarese, and coolies
+in Abyssinia, I knew exactly how to deal with a case like this.
+Unhesitatingly I granted the request as soon as asked, for as much
+tired as Abdul Kader said he was of life, I was with Abdul Kader's
+worthlessness.  But the Hindi did not want to be left in the
+jungle, he said, but, after arriving in Unyanyembe.  "Oh," said I,
+"then you must reach Unyanyembe first; in the meanwhile you will
+carry those saddles there for the food which you must eat."
+
+As the march to Rubuga was eighteen and three-quarter miles, the
+pagazis walked fast and long without resting.
+
+Rubuga, in the days of Burton, according to his book, was a
+prosperous district.  Even when we passed, the evidences of wealth
+and prosperity which it possessed formerly, were plain enough in
+the wide extent of its grain fields, which stretched to the right
+and left of the Unyanyembe road for many a mile.  But they were
+only evidences of what once were numerous villages, a well-
+cultivated and populous district, rich in herds of cattle and
+stores of grain.  All the villages are burnt down, the people have
+been driven north three or four days from Rubuga, the cattle were
+taken by force, the grain fields were left standing, to be
+overgrown with jungle and rank weeds.  We passed village after
+village that had been burnt, and were mere blackened heaps of
+charred timber and smoked clay; field after field of grain ripe
+years ago was yet standing in the midst of a crop of gums and
+thorns, mimosa and kolquall.
+
+We arrived at the village, occupied by about sixty Wangwana,
+who have settled here to make a living by buying and selling
+ivory.  Food is provided for them in the deserted fields of the
+people of Rubuga.  We were very tired and heated from the long
+march, but the pagazis had all arrived by 3 p.m.
+
+At the Wangwana village we met Amer bin Sultan, the very type of
+an old Arab sheikh, such as we read of in books, with a snowy
+beard, and a clean reverend face, who was returning to Zanzibar
+after a ten years' residence in Unyanyembe.  He presented me with
+a goat; and a goatskin full of rice; a most acceptable gift in a
+place where a goat costs five cloths.
+
+After a day's halt at Rubuga, during which I despatched soldiers
+to notify Sheikh Sayd bin Salim and Sheikh bin Nasib, the two chief
+dignitaries of Unyanyembe, of my coming, on the 21st of June we
+resumed the march for Kigwa, distant five hours.  The road ran
+through another forest similar to that which separated Tura from
+Rubuga, the country rapidly sloping as we proceeded westward.
+Kigwa we found to have been visited by the same vengeance which
+rendered Rubuga such a waste.
+
+The next day, after a three and a half hours' rapid march, we
+crossed the mtoni--which was no mtoni--separating Kigwa from
+Unyanyembe district, and after a short halt to quench our thirst,
+in three and a half hours more arrived at Shiza.  It was a most
+delightful march, though a long one, for its picturesqueness of
+scenery which every few minutes was revealed, and the proofs we
+everywhere saw of the peaceable and industrious disposition of the
+people.  A short half hour from Shiza we beheld the undulating
+plain wherein the Arabs have chosen to situate the central depot
+which commands such wide and extensive field of trade.  The
+lowing of cattle and the bleating of the goats and sheep were
+everywhere heard, giving the country a happy, pastoral aspect.
+
+The Sultan of Shiza desired me to celebrate my arrival in
+Unyanyembe, with a five-gallon jar of pombe, which he brought
+for that purpose.
+
+As the pombe was but stale ale in taste, and milk and water in
+colour, after drinking a small glassful I passed it to the delighted
+soldiers and pagazis.  At my request the Sultan brought a fine fat
+bullock, for which he accepted four and a half doti of Merikani.
+The bullock was immediately slaughtered and served out to the
+caravan as a farewell feast.
+
+No one slept much that night, and long before the dawn the fires
+were lit, and great steaks were broiling, that their stomachs might
+rejoice before parting with the Musungu, whose bounty they had so
+often tasted.  Six rounds of powder were served to each soldier and
+pagazi who owned a gun, to fire away when we should be near the
+Arab houses.  The meanest pagazi had his best cloth about his
+loins, and some were exceedingly brave in gorgeous Ulyah "Coombeesa
+Poonga" and crimson "Jawah," the glossy  "Rehani," and the neat
+"Dabwani."  The soldiers were mustered in new tarbooshes, and the
+long white shirts of the Mrima and the Island.  For this was the
+great and happy day which had been on our tongues ever since quitting
+the coast, for which we had made those noted marches latterly--one
+hundred and seventy-eight and a half miles in sixteen days,
+including pauses--something over eleven miles a day
+
+The signal sounded and the caravan was joyfully off with banners
+flying, and trumpets and horns blaring.  A short two and a half
+hours' march brought us within sight of Kwikuru, which is about
+two miles south of Tabora, the main Arab town; on the outside of
+which we saw a long line of men in clean shirts, whereat we opened
+our charged batteries, and fired a volley of small arms such
+
+as Kwikuru seldom heard before.  The pagazis closed up and adopted
+the swagger of veterans:  the soldiers blazed away uninterruptedly,
+while I, seeing that the Arabs were advancing towards me, left the
+ranks, and held out my hand, which was immediately grasped by Sheikh
+Sayd bin Salim, and then by about two dozen people, and thus our
+entrée into Unyanyembe was effected.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII.  MY LIFE AND TROUBLES DURING MY RESIDENCE IN UNYAS
+               NYEMBE.  I BECOME ENGAGED IN A WAR.
+
+
+I received a noiseless ovation as I walked side by side with the
+governor, Sayd bin Salim, towards his tembe in Kwikuru, or the
+capital.  The Wanyamwezi pagazis were out by hundreds, the
+warriors of Mkasiwa, the sultan, hovered around their chief, the
+children were seen between the legs of their parents, even infants,
+a few months old, slung over their mothers' backs, all paid the
+tribute due to my colour, with one grand concentrated stare.  The
+only persons who talked with me were the Arabs, and aged Mkasiwa,
+ruler of Unyanyembe.
+
+Sayd bin Salim's house was at the north-western corner of the
+inclosure, a stockaded boma of Kwikuru.  We had tea made in a
+silver tea-pot, and a bountiful supply of "dampers" were smoking
+under a silver cover; and to this repast I was invited.  When a
+man has walked eight miles or so without any breakfast, and a hot
+tropical sun has been shining on him for three or four hours, he is
+apt to do justice to a meal, especially if his appetite is
+healthy.  I think I astonished the governor by the dexterous way
+in which I managed to consume eleven cups of his aromatic
+concoction of an Assam herb, and the easy effortless style with
+which I demolished his high tower of "slap jacks," that but a
+minute or so smoked hotly under their silver cover.
+
+For the meal, I thanked the Sheikh, as only an earnest and
+sincerely hungry man, now satisfied, could thank him.  Even if
+I had not spoken, my gratified looks had well informed him, under
+what obligations I had been laid to him.
+
+Out came my pipe and tobacco-pouch.
+
+"My friendly Sheikh, wilt thou smoke?"
+
+"No, thanks!  Arabs never smoke."
+
+"Oh, if you don't, perhaps you would not object to me smoking,
+in order to assist digestion?"
+
+"Ngema--good--go on, master."
+
+Then began the questions, the gossipy, curious, serious, light
+questions:
+
+"How came the master?
+
+"By the Mpwapwa road."
+
+"It is good.  Was the Makata bad?"
+
+"Very bad."
+
+"What news from Zanzibar?"
+
+"Good; Syed Toorkee has possession of Muscat, and Azim bin Ghis
+was slain in the streets."
+
+"Is this true, Wallahi?" (by God.)
+
+"It is true."
+
+"Heh-heh-h!  This is news!"--stroking his beard.
+
+"Have you heard, master, of Suleiman bin Ali?"
+
+"Yes, the Bombay governor sent him to Zanzibar, in a
+man-of-war, and Suleiman bin Ali now lies in the gurayza (fort)."
+
+"Heh, that is very good."
+
+"Did you have to pay much tribute to the Wagogo?"
+
+"Eight times; Hamed Kimiani wished me to go by Kiwyeh, but I
+declined, and struck through the forest to Munieka.  Hamed and
+Thani thought it better to follow me, than brave Kiwyeh by
+themselves."
+
+"Where is that Hajji Abdullah (Captain Burton) that came here,
+and Spiki?" (Speke.)
+
+"Hajji Abdullah!  What Hajji Abdullah?  Ah! Sheikh Burton we call
+him.  Oh, he is a great man now; a balyuz (a consul) at El Scham"
+(Damascus.)
+
+"Heh-heh; balyuz!  Heh, at El Scham!  Is not that near Betlem
+el Kuds?" (Jerusalem.)
+
+"Yes, about four days.  Spiki is dead.  He shot himself by
+accident."
+
+"Ah, ah, Wallah (by God), but this is bad news.  Spiki dead?
+Mash-Allah!  Ough, he was a good man--a good man!  Dead!"
+
+"But where is this Kazeh, Sheikh Sayd?"
+
+Kazeh? Kazeh? I never heard the name before."
+
+"But you were with Burton, and Speke, at Kazeh; you lived
+there several months, when you were all stopping in Unyanyembe;
+it must be close here; somewhere.  Where did Hajji Abdullah and
+Spiki live when they were in Unyanyembe?  Was it not in Musa
+Mzuri's house?"
+
+"That was in Tabora."
+
+"Well, then, where is Kazeh?  I have never seen the man yet who
+could tell me where that place is, and yet the three white men
+have that word down, as the name of the place they lived at when
+you were with them.  You must know where it is."
+
+"Wallahi, bana, I never heard the name; but stop, Kazeh, in
+Kinyamwezi, means 'kingdom.' Perhaps they gave that name to the
+place they stopped at.  But then, I used to call the first house
+Sny bin Amer's house, and Speke lived at Musa Mzuri's house, but
+both houses, as well as all the rest, are in Tabora."
+
+"Thank you, sheikh.  I should like to go and look after my
+people; they must all be wanting food."
+
+"I shall go with you to show you your house.  The tembe is in
+Kwihara, only an hour's walk from Tabora."
+
+On leaving Kwikuru we crossed a low ridge, and soon saw Kwihara
+lying between two low ranges of hills, the northernmost of which
+was terminated westward by the round fortress-like hill of Zimbili.
+There was a cold glare of intense sunshine over the valley,
+probably the effect of an universal bleakness or an autumnal
+ripeness of the grass, unrelieved by any depth of colour to vary
+the universal sameness.  The hills were bleached, or seemed to be,
+under that dazzling sunshine, and clearest atmosphere.  The corn
+had long been cut, and there lay the stubble, and fields,--a browny-
+white expanse; the houses were of mud, and their fiat roofs were of
+mud, and the mud was of a browny-whiteness; the huts were thatched,
+and the stockades around them of barked timber, and these were of
+a browny whiteness.  The cold, fierce, sickly wind from the mountains
+of Usagara sent a deadly chill to our very marrows, yet the intense
+sunshiny glare never changed, a black cow or two, or a tall tree
+here and there, caught the eye for a moment, but they never made
+one forget that the first impression of Kwihara was as of a picture
+without colour, or of food without taste; and if one looked up,
+there was a sky of a pale blue, spotless, and of an awful serenity.
+
+As I approached the tembe of Sayd bin Salim, Sheikh bin Nasib and
+other great Arabs joined us.  Before the great door of the tembe
+the men had stacked the bales, and piled the boxes, and were using
+their tongues at a furious rate, relating to the chiefs and
+soldiers of the first, second, and fourth caravans the many events
+which had befallen them, and which seemed to them the only things
+worth relating.  Outside of their own limited circles they
+evidently cared for nothing.  Then the several chiefs of the other
+caravans had in turn to relate their experiences of the road; and
+the noise of tongues was loud and furious.  But as we approached,
+all this loud-sounding gabble ceased, and my caravan chiefs and
+guides rushed to me to hail me as "master," and to salute me as
+their friend.  One fellow, faithful Baruti, threw himself at my
+feet, the others fired their guns and acted like madmen suddenly
+become frenzied, and a general cry of "welcome" was heard on all
+sides.
+
+"Walk in, master, this is your house, now; here are your men's
+quarters; here you will receive the great Arabs, here is the
+cook-house; here is the store-house; here is the prison for the
+refractory; here are your white man's apartments; and these are
+your own: see, here is the bedroom, here is the gun-room,
+bath-room, &c.;" so Sheikh Sayd talked, as he showed me the
+several places.
+
+On my honour, it was a most comfortable place, this, in Central
+Africa.  One could almost wax poetic, but we will keep such
+ambitious ideas for a future day.  Just now, however, we must
+have the goods stored, and the little army of carriers paid
+off and disbanded.
+
+Bombay was ordered to unlock the strong store-room, to pile the
+bales in regular tiers, the beads in rows one above another, and
+the wire in a separate place.  The boats, canvas, &c., were to be
+placed high above reach of white ants, and the boxes of ammunition
+and powder kegs were to be stored in the gun-room, out of reach of
+danger.  Then a bale of cloth was opened, and each carrier was
+rewarded according to his merits, that each of them might proceed
+home to his friends and neighbours, and tell them how much better
+the white man behaved than the Arabs.
+
+The reports of the leaders of the first, second, and fourth
+caravans were then received, their separate stores inspected, and
+the details and events of their marches heard.  The first caravan
+had been engaged in a war at Kirurumo, and had come out of the
+fight successful, and had reached Unyanyembe without loss of
+anything.  The second had shot a thief in the forest between
+Pembera Pereh and Kididimo; the fourth had lost a bale in the
+jungle of Marenga Mkali, and the porter who carried it had received
+a "very sore head" from a knob stick wielded by one of the
+thieves, who prowl about the jungle near the frontier of Ugogo.
+I was delighted to find that their misfortunes were no more, and
+each leader was then and there rewarded with one handsome cloth,
+and five doti of Merikani.
+
+Just as I began to feel hungry again, came several slaves in
+succession, bearing trays full of good things from the Arabs;
+first an enormous dish of rice, with a bowlful of curried chicken,
+another with a dozen huge wheaten cakes, another with a plateful of
+smoking hot crullers, another with papaws, another with pomegranates
+and lemons; after these came men driving five fat hump backed oxen,
+eight sheep, and ten goats, and another man with a dozen chickens,
+and a dozen fresh eggs.  This was real, practical, noble courtesy,
+munificent hospitality, which quite took my gratitude by storm.
+
+My people, now reduced to twenty-five, were as delighted at the
+prodigal plenitude visible on my tables and in my yard, as I was
+myself.  And as I saw their eyes light up at the unctuous
+anticipations presented to them by their riotous fancies,
+I ordered a bullock to be slaughtered and distributed.
+
+The second day of the arrival of the Expedition in the country
+which I now looked upon as classic ground, since Capts. Burton,
+Speke, and Grant years ago had visited it, and described it, came
+the Arab magnates from Tabora to congratulate me.
+
+Tabora* is the principal Arab settlement in Central Africa.  It
+contains over a thousand huts and tembes, and one may safely
+estimate the population, Arabs, Wangwana, and natives, at five
+thousand people.  Between Tabora and the next settlement, Kwihara,
+rise two rugged hill ridges, separated from each other by a low
+saddle, over the top of which Tabora is always visible from
+Kwihara.
+________________
+* There is no such recognised place as Kazeh.
+________________
+
+They were a fine, handsome body of men, these Arabs.  They mostly
+hailed from Oman: others were Wasawahili; and each of my visitors
+had quite a retinue with him.  At Tabora they live quite luxuriously.
+The plain on which the settlement is situated is exceedingly fertile,
+though naked of trees; the rich pasturage it furnishes permits them
+to keep large herds of cattle and goats, from which they have an
+ample supply of milk, cream, butter, and ghee.  Rice is grown
+everywhere; sweet potatoes, yams, muhogo, holcus sorghum, maize,
+or Indian corn, sesame, millet, field-peas, or vetches, called
+choroko, are cheap, and always procurable.  Around their tembes
+the Arabs cultivate a little wheat for their own purposes, and
+have planted orange, lemon, papaw, and mangoes, which thrive
+here fairly well.  Onions and garlic, chilies, cucumbers, tomatoes,
+and brinjalls, may be procured by the white visitor from the more
+important Arabs, who are undoubted epicureans in their way.  Their
+slaves convey to them from the coast, once a year at least, their
+stores of tea, coffee sugar, spices, jellies, curries, wine,
+brandy, biscuits, sardines, salmon, and such fine cloths and
+articles as they require for their own personal use.  Almost every
+Arab of any eminence is able to show a wealth of Persian carpets,
+and most luxurious bedding, complete tea and coffee-services, and
+magnificently carved dishes of tinned copper and brass lavers.
+Several of them sport gold watches and chains, mostly all a watch
+and chain of some kind.  And, as in Persia, Afghanistan, and
+Turkey, the harems form an essential feature of every Arab's
+household; the sensualism of the Mohammedans is as prominent here
+as in the Orient.
+
+The Arabs who now stood before the front door of my tembe were the
+donors of the good things received the day before.  As in duty
+bound, of course, I greeted Sheikh Sayd first, then Sheikh bin
+Nasib, his Highness of Zanzibar's consul at Karagwa, then I greeted
+the noblest Trojan amongst the Arab population, noblest in bearing,
+noblest in courage and manly worth--Sheikh Khamis bin Abdullah;
+then young Amram bin Mussoud, who is now making war on the king of
+Urori and his fractious people; then handsome, courageous Soud,
+the son of Sayd bin Majid; then dandified Thani bin Abdullah; then
+Mussoud bin Abdullah and his cousin Abdullah bin Mussoud, who own
+the houses where formerly lived Burton and Speke; then old
+Suliman Dowa, Sayd bin Sayf, and the old Hetman of Tabora--Sheikh
+Sultan bin Ali.
+
+As the visit of these magnates, under whose loving protection white
+travellers must needs submit themselves, was only a formal one,
+such as Arab etiquette, ever of the stateliest and truest, impelled
+them to, it is unnecessary to relate the discourse on my health,
+and their wealth, my thanks, and their professions of loyalty, and
+attachment to me.  After having expended our mutual stock of
+congratulations and nonsense, they departed, having stated their
+wish that I should visit them at Tabora and partake of a feast
+which they were about to prepare for me.
+
+Three days afterwards I sallied out of my tembe, escorted by
+eighteen bravely dressed men of my escort, to pay Tabora a
+visit.  On surmounting the saddle over which the road from the
+valley of Kwihara leads to Tabora, the plain on which the Arab
+settlement is situated lay before us, one expanse of dun pasture
+land, stretching from the base bf the hill on our left as far as
+the banks of the northern Gombe, which a few miles beyond Tabora
+heave into purple-coloured hills and blue cones.
+
+Within three-quarters of an hour we were seated on the mud veranda
+of the tembe of Sultan bin Ali, who, because of his age, his
+wealth, and position--being a colonel in Seyd Burghash's unlovely
+army--is looked upon by his countrymen, high and low, as referee
+and counsellor.  His boma or enclosure contains quite a village of
+hive-shaped huts and square tembes.  From here, after being
+presented with a cup of Mocha coffee, and some sherbet, we
+directed our steps towards Khamis bin Abdullah's house, who had,
+in anticipation of my coming, prepared a feast to which he had
+invited his friends and neighbours.  The group of stately Arabs
+in their long white dresses, and jaunty caps, also of a snowy
+white, who stood ready to welcome me to Tabora, produced
+quite an effect on my mind.  I was in time for a council of war
+they were holding--and I was,requested to attend.
+
+Khamis bin Abdullah, a bold and brave man, ever ready to stand up
+for the privileges of the Arabs, and their rights to pass through
+any countries for legitimate trade, is the man who, in Speke's
+`Journal of the Discovery of the Source of the Nile,' is reported
+to have shot Maula, an old chief who sided with Manwa Sera during
+the wars of 1860; and who subsequently, after chasing his
+relentless enemy for five years through Ugogo and Unyamwezi as far
+as Ukonongo, had the satisfaction of beheading him, was now urging
+the Arabs to assert their rights against a chief called Mirambo of
+Uyoweh, in a crisis which was advancing.
+
+This Mirambo of Uyoweh, it seems, had for the last few years been
+in a state of chronic discontent with the policies of the
+neighbouring chiefs.  Formerly a pagazi for an Arab, he had now
+assumed regal power, with the usual knack of unconscionable rascals
+who care not by what means they step into power.  When the
+chief of Uyoweh died, Mirambo, who was head of a gang of robbers
+infesting the forests of Wilyankuru, suddenly entered Uyoweh, and
+constituted himself lord paramount by force.  Some feats of
+enterprise, which he performed to the enrichment of all those who
+recognised his authority, established him firmly in his position.
+This was but a beginning; he carried war through Ugara to Ukonongo,
+through Usagozi to the borders of Uvinza, and after destroying
+the populations over three degrees of latitude, he conceived a
+grievance against Mkasiwa, and against the Arabs, because they
+would not sustain him in his ambitious projects against their
+ally and friend, with whom they were living in peace.
+
+The first outrage which this audacious man committed against the
+Arabs was the halting of an Ujiji-bound caravan, and the demand for
+five kegs of gunpowder, five guns, and five bales of cloth.  This
+extraordinary demand, after expending more than a day in fierce
+controversy, was paid; but the Arabs, if they were surprised at
+the exorbitant black-mail demanded of them, were more than ever
+surprised when they were told to return the way they came; and
+that no Arab caravan should pass through his country to Ujiji
+except over his dead body.
+
+On the return of the unfortunate Arabs to Unyanyembe, they
+reported the facts to Sheikh Sayd bin Salim, the governor of the
+Arab colony.  This old man, being averse to war, of course tried
+every means to induce Mirambo as of old to be satisfied with
+presents; but Mirambo this time was obdurate, and sternly
+determined on war unless the Arabs aided him in the warfare he
+was about to wage against old Mkasiwa, sultan of the Wanyamwezi
+of Unyanyembe.
+
+"This is the status of affairs," said Khamis bin Abdullah.
+"Mirambo says that for years he has been engaged in war against
+the neighbouring Washensi and has come out of it victorious; he
+says this is a great year with him; that he is going to fight
+the Arabs, and the Wanyamwezi of Unyanyembe, and that he shall
+not stop until every Arab is driven from Unyanyembe, and he rules
+over this country in place of Mkasiwa.  Children of Oman, shall
+it be so?  Speak, Salim, son of Sayf, shall we go to meet this
+Mshensi (pagan) or shall we return to our island?"
+
+A murmur of approbation followed the speech of Khamis bin Abdullah,
+the majority of those present being young men eager to punish the
+audacious Mirambo.  Salim, the son of Sayf, an old patriarch, slow
+of speech, tried to appease the passions of the young men, scions
+of the aristocracy of Muscat and Muttrah, and Bedaweens of the
+Desert, but Khamis's bold words had made too deep an impression on
+their minds.
+
+Soud, the handsome Arab whom I have noticed already as the son of
+Sayd the son of Majid, spoke: "My father used to tell me that he
+remembered the days when the Arabs could go through the country
+from Bagamoyo to Ujiji, and from Kilwa to Lunda, and from Usenga
+to Uganda armed with canes.  Those days are gone by.  We have stood
+the insolence of the Wagogo long enough.  Swaruru of Usui just
+takes from us whatever he wants; and now, here is Mirambo, who
+says, after taking more than five bales of cloth as tribute from
+one man, that no Arab caravan shall go to Ujiji, but over his body.
+Are we prepared to give up the ivory of Ujiji, of Urundi, of
+Karagwah, of Uganda, because of this one man?  I say war--war
+until we have got his beard under our feet--war until the whole of
+Uyoweh and Wilyankuru is destroyed--war until we can again travel
+through any part of the country with only our walking canes in
+our hands!"
+
+The universal assent that followed Send's speech proved beyond
+a doubt that we were about to have a war.  I thought of
+Livingstone.  What if he were marching to Unyanyembe directly
+into the war country?
+
+Having found from the Arabs that they intended to finish the war
+quickly--at most within fifteen days, as Uyoweh was only four
+marches distant--I volunteered to accompany them, take my loaded
+caravan with me as far as Mfuto, and there leave it in charge of
+a few guards, and with the rest march on with the Arab army.  And
+my hope was, that it might be possible, after the defeat of Mirambo,
+and his forest banditti--the Ruga-Ruga--to take my Expedition direct
+to Ujiji by the road now closed.  The Arabs were sanguine of
+victory, and I partook of their enthusiasm.
+
+The council of war broke up.  A great dishful of rice and curry,
+in which almonds, citron, raisins, and currants were plentifully
+mixed, was brought in, and it was wonderful how soon we forgot our
+warlike fervor after our attention had been drawn to this royal
+dish.  I, of course, not being a Mohammedan, had a dish of my own,
+of a similar composition, strengthened by platters containing
+roast chicken, and kabobs, crullers, cakes, sweetbread, fruit,
+glasses of sherbet and lemonade, dishes of gum-drops and Muscat
+sweetmeats, dry raisins, prunes, and nuts.  Certainly Khamis bin
+Abdullah proved to me that if he had a warlike soul in him, he
+could also attend to the cultivated tastes acquired under the shade
+of the mangoes on his father's estates in Zanzibar--the island.
+
+After gorging ourselves on these uncommon dainties some of the
+chief Arabs escorted me to other tembes of Tabora.  When we went
+to visit Mussoud bin Abdullah, he showed me the very ground where
+Burton and Speke's house stood--now pulled down and replaced
+by his office--Sny bin Amer's house was also torn down, and the
+fashionable tembe of Unyanyembe, now in vogue, built over
+it,--finely-carved rafters--huge carved doors, brass knockers,
+and lofty airy rooms--a house built for defence and comfort.
+
+The finest house in Unyanyembe belongs to Amram bin Mussoud,
+who paid sixty frasilah of ivory--over $3,000--for it.  Very fair
+houses can be purchased for from twenty to thirty frasilah of
+ivory.  Amram's house is called the "Two Seas"--"Baherein." It is
+one hundred feet in length, and twenty feet high, with walls four
+feet thick, neatly plastered over with mud mortar.  The great door
+is a marvel of carving-work for Unyanyembe artisans.  Each rafter
+within is also carved with fine designs.  Before the front of the
+house is a young plantation of pomegranate trees, which flourish
+here as if they were indigenous to the soil.  A shadoof, such as
+may be seen on the Nile, serves to draw water to irrigate the
+gardens.
+
+Towards evening we walked back to our own finely situated tembe in
+Kwihara, well satisfied with what we had seen at Tabora.  My men
+drove a couple of oxen, and carried three sacks of native rice--a
+most superior kind--the day's presents of hospitality from Khamis
+bin Abdullah.
+
+In Unyanyembe I found the Livingstone caravan, which started off in
+a fright from Bagamoyo upon the rumour that the English Consul was
+coming.  As all the caravans were now halted at Unyanyembe because
+of the now approaching war, I suggested to Sayd bin Salim, that it
+were better that the men of the Livingstone caravan should live
+with mine in my tembe, that I might watch over the white man's
+goods.  Sayd bin Salim agreed with me, and the men and goods were
+at once brought to my tembe.
+
+One day Asmani, who was now chief of Livingstone's caravan, the
+other having died of small-pox, two or three days before, brought
+out a tent to the veranda where, I was sitting writing, and shewed
+me a packet of letters, which to my surprise was marked:
+
+"To Dr. Livingstone,
+" Ujiji,
+"November 1st, 1870.
+
+" Registered letters."
+
+From November 1st, 1870, to February 10, 1871, just one hundred
+days, at Bagamoyo!  A miserable small caravan of thirty-three men
+halting one hundred days at Bagamoyo, only twenty-five miles by
+water from Zanzibar!  Poor Livingstone!  Who knows but he maybe
+suffering for want of these very supplies that were detained so
+long near the sea.  The caravan arrived in Unyanyembe some time
+about the middle of May.  About the latter part of May the first
+disturbances took place.  Had this caravan arrived here in the
+middle of March, or even the middle of April, they might have
+travelled on to Ujiji without trouble.
+
+On the 7th of July, about 2 P.M., I was sitting on the burzani as
+usual; I felt listless and languid, and a drowsiness came over me;
+I did not fall asleep, but the power of my limbs seemed to fail
+me.  Yet the brain was busy; all my life seemed passing in review
+before me; when these retrospective scenes became serious, I
+looked serious; when they were sorrowful, I wept hysterically;
+when they were joyous, I laughed loudly.  Reminiscences of
+yet a young life's battles and hard struggles came surging into
+the mind in quick succession: events of boyhood, of youth, and
+manhood; perils, travels, scenes, joys, and sorrows; loves and
+hates; friendships and indifferences.  My mind followed the
+various and rapid transition of my life's passages; it drew the
+lengthy, erratic, sinuous lines of travel my footsteps had passed
+over.  If I had drawn them on the sandy floor, what enigmatical
+problems they had been to those around me, and what plain,
+readable, intelligent histories they had been to me!
+
+The loveliest feature of all to me was the form of a noble, and
+true man, who called me son.  Of my life in the great pine forests
+of Arkansas, and in Missouri, I retained the most vivid impressions.
+The dreaming days I passed under the sighing pines on the Ouachita's
+shores; the new clearing, the block-house, our faithful black
+servant, the forest deer, and the exuberant life I led, were
+all well remembered.  And I remembered how one day, after we had
+come to live near the Mississipi, I floated down, down, hundreds of
+miles, with a wild fraternity of knurly giants, the boatmen of
+the Mississipi, and how a dear old man welcomed me back, as if
+from the grave.  I remembered also my travels on foot through
+sunny Spain, and France, with numberless adventures in Asia Minor,
+among Kurdish nomads.  I remembered the battle-fields of America
+and the stormy scenes of rampant war.  I remembered gold mines,
+and broad prairies, Indian councils, and much experience in the
+new western lands.  I remembered the shock it gave me to hear
+after my return from a barbarous country of the calamity that
+had overtaken the fond man whom I called father, and the hot
+fitful life that followed it.  Stop!  ************
+
+Dear me; is it the 21st of July?  Yes, Shaw informed me that it
+was the 21st of July after I recovered from my terrible attack
+of fever; the true date was the 14th of July, but I was not
+aware that I had jumped a week, until I met Dr. Livingstone.
+We two together examined the Nautical Almanack, which I brought
+with me.  We found that the Doctor was three weeks out of his
+reckoning, and to my great surprise I was also one week out,
+or one week ahead of the actual date.  The mistake was made by
+my being informed that I had been two weeks sick, and as the day
+I recovered my senses was Friday, and Shaw and the people were
+morally sure that I was in bed two weeks, I dated it on my Diary
+the 21st of July.  However, on the tenth day after the first of my
+illness, I was in excellent trim again, only, however, to see and
+attend to Shaw, who was in turn taken sick.  By the 22nd July
+Shaw was recovered, then Selim was prostrated, and groaned in his
+delirium for four days, but by the 28th we were all recovered, and
+were beginning to brighten up at the prospect of a diversion in the
+shape of a march upon Mirambo's stronghold.
+
+The morning of the 29th I had fifty men loaded with bales, beads,
+and wire, for Ujiji.  When they were mustered for the march
+outside the tembe, the only man absent was Bombay.  While men were
+sent to search for him, others departed to get one more look, and
+one more embrace with their black Delilahs.  Bombay was found some
+time about 2 P.M., his face faithfully depicting the contending
+passions under which he was labouring--sorrow at parting from the
+fleshpots of Unyanyembe--regret at parting from his Dulcinea of
+Tabora--to be, bereft of all enjoyment now, nothing but
+marches--hard, long marches--to go to the war--to be killed,
+perhaps,  Oh!  Inspired by such feelings, no wonder Bombay was
+inclined to be pugnacious when I ordered him to his place, and I
+was in a shocking bad temper for having been kept waiting from
+8 A.M. to 2 P.M.  for him.  There was simply a word and a savage
+look, and my cane was flying around Bombay's shoulders, as if he
+were to be annihilated.  I fancy that the eager fury of my
+onslaught broke his stubbornness more than anything else; for
+before I had struck him a dozen times he was crying for "pardon."
+At that word I ceased belaboring him, for this was the first time
+he had ever uttered that word.  Bombay was conquered at last.
+
+"March!" and the guide led off, followed in solemn order by
+forty-nine of his fellows, every man carrying a heavy load of
+African moneys, besides his gun, hatchet, and stock of ammunition,
+and his ugali-pot.  We presented quite an imposing sight while thus
+marching on in silence and order, with our flags flying, and the
+red blanket robes of the men streaming behind them as the furious
+north-easter blew right on our flank.
+
+The men seemed to feel they were worth seeing, for I noticed that
+several assumed a more martial tread as they felt their royal Joho
+cloth tugging at their necks, as it was swept streaming behind by
+the wind.  Maganga, a tall Mnyamwezi, stalked along like a very
+Goliah about to give battle alone, to Mirambo and his thousand
+warriors.  Frisky Khamisi paced on under his load, imitating a
+lion and there was the rude jester--the incorrigible Ulimengo--
+with a stealthy pace like a cat.  But their silence could not
+last long.  Their, vanity was so much gratified, the red cloaks
+danced so incessantly before their eyes, that it would have
+been a wonder if they could have maintained such serious gravity
+or discontent one half hour longer.
+
+Ulimengo was the first who broke it.  He had constituted himself
+the kirangozi or guide, and was the standard-bearer, bearing the
+American flag, which the men thought would certainly strike terror
+into the hearts of the enemy.  Growing confident first, then
+valorous, then exultant, he suddenly faced the army he was
+leading, and shouted
+
+        "Hoy!  Hoy !
+Chorus.--Hoy!  Hoy!
+
+         Hoy!  Hoy!
+Chorus.--Hoy!  Hoy!
+
+         Hoy!  Hoy!
+Chorus.--Hoy!  Hoy!
+
+         Where are ye going?
+Chorus.--Going to war.
+
+         Against whom?
+Chorus.--Against Mirambo.
+
+         Who is your master?
+Chorus.--The White Man.
+
+         Ough!  Ough!
+Chorus.--Ough!  Ough!
+
+         Hyah!  Hyah!
+Chorus.--Hyah.  Hyah!"
+
+This was the ridiculous song they kept up all day without
+intermission.
+
+We camped the first day at Bomboma's village, situated a mile to
+the south-west of the natural hill fortress of Zimbili.  Bombay
+was quite recovered from his thrashing, and had banished the sullen
+thoughts that had aroused my ire, and the men having behaved
+themselves so well, a five-gallon pot of pombe was brought to
+further nourish the valour, which they one and all thought they
+possessed.
+
+The second day we arrived at Masangi.  I was visited soon
+afterwards by Soud, the son of Sayd bin Majid, who told me the
+Arabs were waiting for me; that they would not march from Mfuto
+until I had arrived.
+
+Eastern Mfuto, after a six hours' march, was reached on the third
+day from Unyanyembe.  Shaw gave in, laid down in the road, and
+declared he was dying.  This news was brought to me about 4 P.M.
+by one of the last stragglers.  I was bound to despatch men to
+carry him to me, into my camp, though every man was well tired
+after the long march.  A reward stimulated half-a-dozen to
+venture into the forest just at dusk to find Shaw, who was
+supposed to be at least three hours away from camp.
+
+About two o'clock in the morning my men returned, having carried
+Shaw on their backs the entire distance.  I was roused up, and had
+him conveyed to my tent.  I examined him, and I assured myself he
+was not suffering from fever of any kind; and in reply to my
+inquiries as to how he felt, he said he could neither walk nor
+ride, that he felt such extreme weakness and lassitude that he was
+incapable of moving further.  After administering a glass of port
+wine to him in a bowlful of sago gruel, we both fell asleep.
+
+We arrived early the following morning at Mfuto, the rendezvous
+of the Arab army.  A halt was ordered the next day, in order to
+make ourselves strong by eating the beeves, which we freely
+slaughtered.
+
+The personnel of our army was as follows:
+
+Sheikh Sayd bin Salim . .  .  .  .  .   25 half caste
+
+  "    Khamis bin Abdullah .  .  .  .  250 slaves
+
+  "    Thani bin Abdullah .  .  .  .    80   "
+
+  "    Mussoud bin Abdullah .  .  .  .  75   "
+
+  "    Abdullah bin Mussoud .  .  .  .  80   "
+
+  "    Ali bin Sayd bin Nasib .  .  .  250   "
+
+  "    Nasir bin Mussoud .  .  .  .  .  50   "
+
+  "    Hamed Kimiami .  .  .  .  .  .   70   "
+
+  "    Hamdam .  .  .  .  .  .   .  .   30   "
+
+
+  "    Sayd bin Habib .  .  .  .  .  .  50   "
+
+  "    Salim bin Sayf .  .  .  .  .    100   "
+
+  "    Sunguru .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  25    "
+
+  "    Sarboko .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  25    "
+
+  "    Soud bin Sayd bin Majid .  . .  50    "
+
+  "    Mohammed bin Mussoud .  .  . .  30    "
+
+  "    Sayd bin Hamed .  .  .  .  .  . 90    "
+
+  "    The 'Herald' Expedition .  . .  50 soldiers
+
+  "    Mkasiwa's Wanyamwezi .  .  .   800    "
+
+  "    Half-castes and Wangwana .  .  125    "
+
+  "    Independent chiefs and their
+       followers .  .  .  .  .  .  .  300    "
+
+These made a total of 2,255, according to numbers given me by
+Thani bin Abdullah, and corroborated by a Baluch in the pay of
+Sheikh bin Nasib.  Of these men 1,500 were armed with guns--
+flint-lock muskets, German and French double-barrels, some
+English Enfields, and American Springfields--besides these muskets,
+they were mostly armed with spears and long knives for the
+purpose of decapitating, and inflicting vengeful gashes in
+the dead bodies.  Powder and ball were plentiful:  some men were
+served a hundred rounds each, my people received each man sixty
+rounds.
+
+As we filed out of the stronghold of Mfuto, with waving banners
+denoting the various commanders, with booming horns, and the roar
+of fifty bass drums, called gomas--with blessings showered on us
+by the mollahs, and happiest predications from the soothsayers,
+astrologers, and the diviners of the Koran--who could have foretold
+that this grand force, before a week passed over its head, would be
+hurrying into that same stronghold of Mfuto, with each man's heart
+in his mouth from fear?
+
+The date of our leaving Mfuto for battle with Mirambo was the
+3rd of August.  All my goods were stored in Mfuto, ready for the
+march to Ujiji, should we be victorious over the African chief,
+but at least for safety, whatever befel us.
+
+Long before we reached Umanda, I was in my hammock in the
+paroxysms of a fierce attack of intermittent fever, which did
+not leave me until late that night.
+
+At Umanda, six hours from Mfuto, our warriors bedaubed themselves
+with the medicine which the wise men had manufactured for them--a
+compound of matama flour mixed with the juices of a herb whose
+virtues were only known to the Waganga of the Wanyamwezi.
+
+At 6 A.M.  on the 4th of August we were once more prepared for the
+road, but before we were marched out of the village, the "manneno,"
+or speech, was delivered by the orator of the Wanyamwezi:
+
+"Words! words! words!  Listen, sons of Mkasiwa, children of
+Unyamwezi! the journey is before you, the thieves of the forest
+are waiting; yes, they are thieves, they cut up your caravans,
+they steal your ivory, they murder your women.  Behold, the Arabs
+are with you, El Wali of the Arab sultan, and the white man are
+with you.  Go, the son of Mkasiwa is with you; fight; kill, take
+slaves, take cloth, take cattle, kill, eat, and fill yourselves!
+Go!"
+
+"A loud, wild shout followed this bold harangue, the gates of the
+village were thrown open, and blue, red, and white-robed soldiers
+were bounding upward like so many gymnasts; firing their guns
+incessantly, in order to encourage themselves with noise, or to
+strike terror into the hearts of those who awaited us within the
+strong enclosure of Zimbizo, Sultan Kolongo's place.
+
+As Zimbizo was distant only five hours from Umanda, at 11 A.M.
+we came in view of it.  We halted on the verge of the cultivated
+area around it and its neighbours within the shadow of the forest.
+Strict orders had been given by the several chiefs to their
+respective commands not to fire, until they were within shooting
+distance of the boma.
+
+Khamis bin Abdullah crept through the forest to the west of the
+village.  The Wanyamwezi took their position before the main
+gateway, aided by the forces of Soud the son of Sayd on the right,
+and the son of Habib on the left, Abdullah, Mussoud, myself, and
+others made ready to attack the eastern gates, which arrangement
+effectually shut them in, with the exception of the northern side.
+
+Suddenly, a volley opened on us as we emerged from the forest
+along the Unyanyembe road, in the direction they had been
+anticipating the sight of an enemy, and immediately the attacking
+forces began their firing in most splendid style.  There were some
+ludicrous scenes of men pretending to fire, then jumping off to one
+side, then forward, then backward, with the agility of hopping
+frogs, but the battle was none the less in earnest.  The
+breech-loaders of my men swallowed my metallic cartridges much
+faster than I liked to see; but happily there was a lull in the
+firing, and we were rushing into the village from the west, the
+south, the north, through the gates and over the tall palings
+that surrounded the village, like so many Merry Andrews; and
+the poor villagers were flying from the enclosure towards the
+mountains, through the northern gate, pursued by the fleetest
+runners of our force, and pelted in the back by bullets from
+breech-loaders and shot-guns.
+
+The village was strongly defended, and not more than twenty dead
+bodies were found in it, the strong thick wooden paling having
+afforded excellent protection against our bullets.
+
+From Zimbizo, after having left a sufficient force within, we
+sallied out, and in an hour had cleared the neighbourhood of the
+enemy, having captured two other villages, which we committed to
+the flames, after gutting them of all valuables.  A few tusks of
+ivory, and about fifty slaves, besides an abundance of grain,
+composed the "loot," which fell to the lot of the Arabs.
+
+On the 5th, a detachment of Arabs and slaves, seven hundred strong,
+scoured the surrounding country, and carried fire and devastation
+up to the boma of Wilyankuru.
+
+On the 6th, Soud bin Sayd and about twenty other young Arabs led
+a force of five hundred men against Wilyankuru itself, where it
+was supposed Mirambo was living.  Another party went out towards
+the low wooded hills, a short distance north of Zimbizo, near
+which place they surprised a youthful forest thief asleep, whose
+head they stretched backwards, and cut it off as though he were a
+goat or a sheep.  Another party sallied out southward, and defeated
+a party of Mirambo's "bush-whackers," news of which came to our
+ears at noon.
+
+In the morning I had gone to Sayd bin Salim's tembe, to represent
+to him how necessary it was to burn the long grass in the forest
+of Zimbizo, lest it might hide any of the enemy; but soon
+afterwards I had been struck down with another attack of
+intermittent fever, and was obliged to turn in and cover myself
+with blankets to produce perspiration; but not, however, till I
+had ordered Shaw and Bombay not to permit any of my men to leave
+the camp.  But I was told soon afterwards by Selim that more than
+one half had gone to the attack on Wilyankuru with Soud bin Sayd.
+
+About 6 P.M. the entire camp of Zimbizo was electrified with the
+news that all the Arabs who had accompanied Soud bin Sayd had
+been killed; and that more than one-half of his party had been
+slain.  Some of my own men returned, and from them I learned
+that Uledi, Grant's former valet, Mabruki Khatalabu
+(Killer of his father), Mabruki (the Little), Baruti of Useguhha,
+and Ferahan had been killed.  I learned also that they had
+succeeded in capturing Wilyankuru in a very short time, that
+Mirambo and his son were there, that as they succeeded in
+effecting an entrance, Mirambo had collected his men, and after
+leaving the village, had formed an ambush in the grass, on each
+side of the road, between Wilyankuru and Zimbizo, and that as the
+attacking party were returning home laden with over a hundred
+tusks of ivory, and sixty bales of cloth, and two or three hundred
+slaves, Mirambo's men suddenly rose up on each side of them, and
+stabbed them with their spears.  The brave Soud had fired his
+double-barrelled gun and shot two men, and was in the act of
+loading again when a spear was launched, which penetrated through
+and through him: all the other Arabs shared the same fate.
+This sudden attack from an enemy they believed to be conquered
+so demoralized the party that, dropping their spoil, each man
+took to his heels, and after making a wide detour through the
+woods, returned to Zimbizo to repeat the dolorous tale.
+
+The effect of this defeat is indescribable.  It was impossible to
+sleep, from the shrieks of the women whose husbands had fallen.
+All night they howled their lamentations, and sometimes might be
+heard the groans of the wounded who had contrived to crawl through
+the grass unperceived by the enemy.  Fugitives were continually
+coming in throughout the night, but none of my men who were
+reported to be dead, were ever heard of again.
+
+The 7th was a day of distrust, sorrow, and retreat; the Arabs
+accused one another for urging war without expending all peaceful
+means first.  There were stormy councils of war held, wherein
+were some who proposed to return at once to Unyanyembe, and keep
+within their own houses; and Khamis bin Abdullah raved, like an
+insulted monarch, against the abject cowardice of his compatriots.
+These stormy meetings and propositions to retreat were soon known
+throughout the camp, and assisted more than anything else to
+demoralize completely the combined forces of Wanyamwezi and
+slaves.  I sent Bombay to Sayd bin Salim to advise him not to
+think of retreat, as it would only be inviting Mirambo to carry
+the war to Unyanyembe.
+
+After, despatching Bombay with this message, I fell asleep, but
+about 1.30 P.M. I was awakened by Selim saying, "Master, get up,
+they are all running away, and Khamis bin Abdullah is himself
+going."
+
+With the aid of Selim I dressed myself, and staggered towards the
+door.  My first view was of Thani bin Abdullah being dragged away,
+who, when he caught sight of me, shouted out "Bana--quick--Mirambo
+is coming."  He was then turning to run, and putting on his jacket,
+with his eyes almost starting out of their sockets with terror.
+Khamis bin Abdullah was also about departing, he being the last
+Arab to leave.  Two of my men were following him; these Selim
+was ordered to force back with a revolver.  Shaw was saddling
+his donkey with my own saddle, preparatory to giving me the slip,
+and leaving me in the lurch to the tender mercies of Mirambo.
+There were only Bombay, Mabruki Speke, Chanda who was coolly
+eating his dinner, Mabruk Unyauyembe, Mtamani, Juma, and
+Sarmean---only seven out of fifty.  All the others had deserted,
+and were by this time far away, except Uledi (Manwa Sera) and
+Zaidi, whom Selim brought back at the point of a loaded revolver.
+Selim was then told to saddle my donkey, and Bombay to assist
+Shaw to saddle his own.  In a few moments we were on the road,
+the men ever looking back for the coming enemy; they belabored
+the donkeys to some purpose, for they went at a hard trot,
+which caused me intense pain.  I would gladly have lain down
+to die, but life was sweet, and I had not yet given up all
+hope of being able to preserve it to the full and final
+accomplishment of my mission.  My mind was actively at work
+planning and contriving during the long lonely hours of night,
+which we employed to reach Mfuto, whither I found the Arabs had
+retreated.  In the night Shaw tumbled off his donkey, and would
+not rise, though implored to do so.  As I did not despair myself,
+so I did not intend that Shaw should despair.  He was lifted on
+his animal, and a man was placed on each side of him to assist him;
+thus we rode through the darkness.  At midnight we reached Mfuto
+safely, and were at once admitted into the village, from which we
+had issued so valiantly, but to which we were now returned so
+ignominiously.
+
+I found all my men had arrived here before dark.  Ulimengo, the
+bold guide who had exulted in his weapons and in our numbers, and
+was so sanguine of victory, had performed the eleven hours' march
+in six hours; sturdy Chowpereh, whom I regarded as the
+faithfullest of my people, had arrived only half an hour later
+than Ulimengo; and frisky Khamisi, the dandy--the orator--the
+rampant demagogue--yes--he had come third; and Speke's "Faithfuls"
+had proved as cowardly as any poor "nigger" of them all.  Only
+Selim was faithful.
+
+I asked Selim, "Why did you not also run away, and leave your
+master to die?"
+
+"Oh, sir," said the Arab boy, naively, "I was afraid you would
+whip me."
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IX.  MY LIFE AND TROUBLES IN UNYANYEMBE-(continued).
+
+
+It never occurred to the Arab magnates that I had cause of complaint
+against them, or that I had a right to feel aggrieved at their
+conduct, for the base desertion of an ally, who had, as a duty to
+friendship, taken up arms for their sake.  Their "salaams" the next
+morning after the retreat, were given as if nothing had transpired
+to mar the good feeling that had existed  between us.
+
+They were hardly seated, however, before I began to inform them
+that as the war was only between them and Mirambo, and that as
+I was afraid, if they were accustomed to run away after every
+little check, that the war might last a much longer time than I
+could afford to lose; and that as they had deserted their wounded
+on the field, and left their sick friends to take care of
+themselves, they must not consider me in the light of an ally
+any more.  "I am satisfied," said I, "having seen your mode of
+fighting, that the war will not be ended in so short a time as
+you think it will.  It took you five years, I hear, to conquer
+and kill Manwa Sera, you will certainly not conquer Mirambo in
+less than a year.*  I am a white man, accustomed to wars after
+a different style, I know something about fighting, but I never
+saw people run away from an encampment like ours at Zimbizo for
+such slight cause as you had.  By running away, you have invited
+Mirambo to follow you to Unyanyembe; you may be sure he will come."
+__________________
+* The same war is still raging, April, 1874.
+__________________
+
+The Arabs protested one after another that they had not intended
+to have left me, but the Wanyamwezi of Mkasiwa had shouted out
+that the "Musungu" was gone, and the cry had caused a panic among
+their people, which it was impossible to allay.
+
+Later that day the Arabs continued their retreat to Tabora; which
+is twenty-two miles distant from Mfuto.  I determined to proceed
+more leisurely, and on the second day after the flight from
+Zimbizo, the Expedition, with all the stores and baggage, marched
+back to Masangi, and on the third day to Kwihara.
+
+The following extracts from my Diary will serve to show better
+than anything else, my feelings and thoughts about this time,
+after our disgraceful retreat:
+
+Kwihara.  Friday, 11th August, 1871.--Arrived to-day from Zimbili,
+village of Bomboma's.  I am quite disappointed and almost
+disheartened.  But I have one consolation, I have done my duty by
+the Arabs, a duty I thought I owed to the kindness they received
+me with, now, however, the duty is discharged, and I am free to
+pursue my own course.  I feel happy, for some reasons, that the
+duty has been paid at such a slight sacrifice.  Of course if I
+had lost my life in this enterprise, I should have been justly
+punished.  But apart from my duty to the consideration with
+which the Arabs had received me, was the necessity of trying
+every method of reaching Livingstone.  This road which the war
+with Mirambo has closed, is only a month's march from this place,
+and, if the road could be opened with my aid, sooner than without
+it, why should I refuse my aid?  The attempt has been made for
+the second time to Ujiji--both have failed.  I am going to try
+another route; to attempt to go by the north would be folly.
+Mirambo's mother and people, and the Wasui, are between me and
+Ujiji, without including the Watuta, who are his allies, and
+robbers.  The southern route seems to be the most practicable one.
+Very few people know anything of the country south; those whom
+I have questioned concerning it speak of "want of water" and
+robber Wazavira, as serious obstacles; they also say that the
+settlements are few and far between.
+
+But before I can venture to try this new route, I have to employ
+a new set of men, as those whom I took to Mfuto consider their
+engagements at an end, and the fact of five of their number being
+killed rather damps their ardor for travelling.  It is useless to
+hope that Wanyamwezi can be engaged, because it is against their
+custom to go with caravans, as carriers, during war time.  My
+position is most serious.  I have a good excuse for returning to
+the coast, but my conscience will not permit me to do so, after
+so much money has been expended, and so much confidence has been
+placed in me.  In fact, I feel I must die sooner than return.
+
+Saturday, August 12th.--My men, as I supposed they would, have
+gone; they said that I engaged them to go, to Ujiji by Mirambo's
+road.  I have only thirteen left.
+
+With this small body of men, whither can I go?  I have over one
+hundred loads in the storeroom.  Livingstone's caravan is also
+here; his goods consist of seventeen bales of cloth, twelve boxes,
+and six bags of beads.  His men are luxuriating upon the best the
+country affords.
+
+If Livingstone is at Ujiji, he is now locked up with small means of
+escape.  I may consider myself also locked up at Unyamyembe, and
+I suppose cannot go to Ujiji until this war with Mirambo is
+settled.  Livingstone cannot get his goods, for they are here with
+mine.  He cannot return to Zanzibar, and the road to the Nile is
+blocked up.  He might, if he has men and stores, possibly reach
+Baker by travelling northwards, through Urundi, thence through
+Ruanda, Karagwah, Uganda, Unyoro, and Ubari to Gondokoro.  Pagazis
+he cannot obtain, for the sources whence a supply might be
+obtained are closed.  It is an erroneous supposition to think that
+Livingstone, any more than any other energetic man of his calibre,
+can travel through Africa without some sort of an escort,
+and a durable supply of marketable cloth and beads.
+
+I was told to-day by a man that when Livingstone was coming from
+Nyassa Lake towards the Tanganika (the very time that people
+thought him murdered) he was met by Sayd bin Omar's caravan, which
+was bound for Ulamba.  He was travelling with Mohammed bin Gharib.
+This Arab, who was coming from Urunga, met Livingstone at Chi-cumbi's,
+or Kwa-chi-kumbi's, country, and travelled with him afterwards, I
+hear, to Manyuema or Manyema.  Manyuema is forty marches from
+the north of Nyassa.  Livingstone was walking; he was dressed in
+American sheeting.  He had lost all his cloth in Lake Liemba while
+crossing it in a boat.  He had three canoes with him; in one he
+put his cloth, another he loaded with his boxes and some of his
+men, into the third he went himself with two servants and two
+fishermen.  The boat with his cloth was upset.  On leaving Nyassa,
+Livingstone went to Ubisa, thence to Uemba, thence to Urungu.
+Livingstone wore a cap.  He had a breech-loading double-barreled
+rifle with him, which fired fulminating balls.  He was also armed
+with two revolvers.  The Wahiyow with Livingstone told this man
+that their master had many men with him at first, but that
+several had deserted him.
+
+August 13th.--A caravan came in to-day from the seacoast.  They
+reported that William L. Farquhar, whom I left sick at Mpwapwa,
+Usagara, and his cook, were dead.  Farquhar, I was told, died a few
+days after I had entered Ugogo, his cook died a few weeks later.
+My first impulse was for revenge.  I believed that Leukole had
+played me false, and had poisoned him, or that he had been murdered
+in some other manner; but a personal interview with the Msawahili
+who brought the news informing me that Farquhar had succumbed to
+his dreadful illness has done away with that suspicion.  So far
+as I could understand him, Farquhar had in the morning declared
+himself well enough to proceed, but in attempting to rise, had
+fallen backward and died. I was also told that the Wasagara,
+possessing some superstitious notions respecting the dead, had
+ordered Jako to take the body out for burial, that Jako, not
+being able to carry it, had dragged the body to the jungle,
+and there left it naked without the slightest covering of
+earth, or anything else.
+
+"There is one of us gone, Shaw, my boy!  Who will be the next?"
+I remarked that night to my companion.
+
+August 14th.--Wrote some letters to Zanzibar.  Shaw was taken very
+ill last night.
+
+August 19th.  Saturday.--My soldiers are employed stringing beads.
+Shaw is still a-bed.  We hear that Mirambo is coming to Unyanyembe.
+A detachment of Arabs and their slaves have started this morning to
+possess themselves of the powder left there by the redoubtable
+Sheikh Sayd bin Salim, the commander-in-chief of the Arab
+settlements.
+
+August 21st.  Monday.--Shaw still sick.  One hundred fundo of beads
+have been strung.  The Arabs are preparing for another sally
+against Mirambo.  The advance of Mirambo upon Unyanyembe was denied
+by Sayd bin Salim, this morning.
+
+August 22nd.--We were stringing beads this morning, when, about 10
+A.M., we heard a continued firing from the direction of Tabora.
+Rushing out from our work to the front door facing Tabora, we heard
+considerable volleying, and scattered firing, plainly; and
+ascending to the top of my tembe, I saw with my glasses the
+smoke of the guns.  Some of my men who were sent on to ascertain
+the cause came running back with the information that Mirambo had
+attacked Tabora with over two thousand men, and that a force of
+over one thousand Watuta, who had allied themselves with him for
+the sake of plunder, had come suddenly upon Tabora, attacking from
+opposite directions.
+
+Later in the day, or about noon, watching the low saddle over
+which  we could see Tabora, we saw it crowded with fugitives
+from that settlement, who were rushing to our settlement at
+Kwihara for protection.  From these people we heard the sad
+information that the noble Khamis bin Abdullah, his little protege,
+Khamis, Mohammed bin Abdullah, Ibrahim bin Rashid, and Sayf, the
+son of Ali, the son of Sheikh, the son of Nasib, had been slain.
+
+When I inquired into the details of the attack, and the manner of
+the death of these Arabs, I was told that after the first firing
+which warned the inhabitants of Tabora that the enemy was upon
+them, Khamis bin Abdullah and some of the principal Arabs who
+happened to be with him had ascended to the roof of his tembe,
+and with his spyglass he had looked towards the direction of the
+firing.  To his great astonishment he saw the plain around Tabora
+filled with approaching savages, and about two miles off, near
+Kazima, a tent pitched, which he knew to belong to Mirambo, from
+its having been presented to that chief by the Arabs of Tabora
+when they were on good terms with him.
+
+Khamis bin Abdullah descended to his house saying, "Let us go to
+meet him. Arm yourselves, my friends, and come with me." His
+friends advised him strongly sat to go out of his tembe; for so
+long as each Arab kept to his tembe they were more than a match
+for the Ruga Ruga and the Watuta together.  But Khamis broke out
+impatiently with, "Would you advise us to stop in our tembes,
+for fear of this Mshensi (pagan)?  Who goes with me?"  His little
+protege, Khamis,, son of a dead friend, asked to be allowed to be
+his gun-bearer;.  Mohammed bin Abdulluh, Ibrahim bin Rashid, and
+Sayf, the son of Ali, young Arabs of good families, who were
+proud to live with the noble Khamis, also offered to go with him.
+After hastily arming eighty of his slaves, contrary to the advice
+of his prudent friends, he sallied out, and was soon face to face
+with his cunning and determined enemy Mirambo.  This chief, upon
+seeing the Arabs advance towards him, gave orders to retreat slowly.
+Khamis, deceived by this, rushed on with his friends after them.
+Suddenly Mirambo ordered his men to advance upon them in a body,
+and at the sight of the precipitate rush upon their party, Khamis's
+slaves incontinently took to their heels, never even deigning to cast
+a glance behind them, leaving their master to the fate which was now
+overtaking him.  The savages surrounded the five Arabs, and though
+several of them fell before the Arabs' fire, continued to shoot at
+the little party, until Khamis bin Abdullah received a bullet in
+the leg, which brought him to his knees, and, for the first time,
+to the knowledge that his slaves had deserted him.  Though wounded,
+the brave man continued shooting, but he soon afterwards received
+a bullet through the heart.  Little Khamis, upon seeing his adopted
+father's fall, exclaimed: "My father Khamis is dead, I will die
+with him," and continued fighting until he received, shortly
+after, his death wound.  In a few minutes there was not one Arab
+left alive.
+
+Late at night some more particulars arrived of this tragic scene.
+I was told by people who saw the bodies, that the body of Khamis
+bin Abdullah, who was a fine noble, brave, portly man, was found
+with the skin of his forehead, the beard and skin of the lower part
+of his face, the fore part of the nose, the fat over the stomach
+and abdomen, and, lastly, a bit from each heel, cut off, by the
+savage allies of Mirambo.  And in the same condition were found
+the bodies of his adopted son and fallen friends.  The flesh and
+skin thus taken from the bodies was taken, of course, by the
+waganga or medicine men, to make what they deem to be the most
+powerful potion of all to enable men to be strong against
+their enemies.  This potion is mixed up with their ugali and rice,
+and is taken in this manner with the most perfect confidence in its
+efficacy, as an invulnerable protection against bullets and
+missiles of all descriptions.
+
+It was a most sorry scene to witness from our excited settlement
+at Kwihara, almost the whole of Tabora in flames, and to see the
+hundreds of people crowding into Kwihara.
+
+Perceiving that my people were willing to stand by me, I made
+preparations for defence by boring loopholes for muskets into the
+stout clay walls of my tembe.  They were made so quickly, and
+seemed so admirably adapted for the efficient defence of the
+tembe, that my men got quite brave, and Wangwana refugees with
+guns in their hands, driven out of Tabora, asked to be admitted
+into our tembe to assist in its defence.  Livingstone's men were
+also collected, and invited to help defend their master's goods
+against Mirambo's supposed attack.  By night I had one hundred
+and fifty armed men in my courtyard, stationed at every possible
+point where an attack might be expected.  To-morrow Mirambo has
+threatened that he will come to Kwihara.  I hope he will come, and
+if he comes within range of an American rifle, I shall see what
+virtue lies in American lead.
+
+August 23rd.--We have passed a very anxious day in the valley of
+Kwihara.  Our eyes were constantly directed towards unfortunate
+Tabora.  It has been said that three tembes only have stood the
+brunt of the attack.  Abid bin Suliman's house has been destroyed,
+and over two hundred tusks of ivory that belonged to him have become
+the property of the African Bonaparte.  My tembe is in as efficient
+a state of defence as its style and means of defence will allow.
+Rifle-pits surround the house outside, and all native huts that
+obstructed the view have been torn down, and all trees and shrubs
+which might serve as a shelter for any one of the enemy have been
+cut.  Provisions and water enough for six days have been brought.
+I have ammunition enough to last two weeks.  The walls are three
+feet thick, and there are apartments within apartments, so that
+a desperate body of men could fight until the last room had been
+taken.
+
+The Arabs, my neighbours, endeavour to seem brave, but it is
+evident they are about despairing; I have heard it rumoured that
+the Arabs of Kwihara, if Tabora is taken, will start en masse for
+the coast, and give the country up to Mirambo.  If such are their
+intentions, and they are really carried into effect, I shall be
+in a pretty mess.  However, if they do leave me, Mirambo will not
+reap any benefit from my stores, nor from Livingstone's either,
+for I shall burn the whole house, and everything in it.
+
+August 24th.--The American flag is still waving above my house,
+and the Arabs are still in Unyanyembe.
+
+About 10 A.M., a messenger came from Tabora, asking us if we were
+not going to assist them against Mirambo.  I felt very much like
+going out to help them; but after debating long upon the pros and
+cons of it,--asking myself, Was it prudent?  Ought I to go?  What
+will become of the people if I were killed?  Will they not desert
+me again?  What was the fate of Khamis bin Abdullah?--I sent word
+that I would not go; that they ought to feel perfectly at home in
+their tembes against such a force as Mirambo had, that I should
+be glad if they could induce him to come to Kwihara, in which
+case I would try and pick him off.
+
+They say that Mirambo, and his principal officer, carry umbrellas
+over their heads, that he himself has long hair like a Mnyamwezi
+pagazi, and a beard.  If he comes, all the men carrying umbrellas
+will have bullets rained on them in the hope that one lucky bullet
+may hit him.  According to popular ideas, I should make a silver
+bullet, but I have no silver with me.  I might make a gold one.
+
+About, noon I went over to see Sheikh bin Nasib, leaving about
+100 men inside the house to guard it while I was absent.  This old
+fellow is quite a philosopher in his way.  I should call him a
+professor of minor philosophy.  He is generally so sententious--
+fond of aphorisms, and a very deliberate character.  I was
+astonished to find him so despairing.  His aphorisms have
+deserted him, his philosophy has not been able to stand against
+disaster.  He listened to me, more like a moribund, than one
+possessing all the means of defence and offence.
+
+I loaded his two-pounder with ball, and grape, and small slugs of
+iron, and advised him not to fire it until Mirambo's people were at
+his gates.
+
+About 4 p.m. I heard that Mirambo had deported himself to Kazima,
+a place north-west of Tabora a couple of miles.
+
+August 26th.--The Arabs sallied out this morning to attack Kazima,
+but refrained, because Mirambo asked for a day's grace, to eat the
+beef he had stolen from them.  He has asked them impudently to
+come to-morrow morning, at which time he says he will give them
+plenty of fighting,
+
+Kwihara is once more restored to a peaceful aspect, and fugitives
+no longer throng its narrow limits in fear and despair.
+
+August 27th.--Mirambo retreated during the night; and when the
+Arabs went in force to attack his village of Kazima, they found it
+vacant.
+
+The Arabs hold councils of war now-a-days--battle meetings, of
+which they seem to be very fond, but extremely slow to act upon.
+They were about to make friends with the northern Watuta, but
+Mirambo was ahead of them.  They had talked of invading Mirambo's
+territory the second time, but Mirambo invaded  Unyanyembe with
+fire and sword, bringing death to many a household, and he has
+slain the noblest of them all.
+
+The Arabs spend their hours in talking and arguing, while the Ujiji
+and Karagwah roads are more firmly closed than ever.  Indeed many
+of the influential Arabs are talking of returning to Zanzibar;
+saying, "Unyanyembe is ruined."
+
+Meanwhile, with poor success, however, perceiving the impossibility
+of procuring Wanyamwezi pagazis, I am hiring the Wangwana renegades
+living in Unyanyembe to proceed with me to Ujiji, at treble prices.
+Each man is offered 30 doti, ordinary hire of a carrier being only
+from 5 to 10 doti to Ujiji.  I want fifty men.  I intend to leave
+about sixty or seventy loads here under charge of a guard.  I
+shall leave all personal baggage behind, except one small
+portmanteau.
+
+August 28th.--No news to-day of Mirambo.  Shaw is getting strong
+again.
+
+Sheikh bin Nasib called on me to-day, but, except on minor
+philosophy, he had nothing to say.
+
+I have determined, after a study of the country, to lead a flying
+caravan to Ujiji, by a southern road through northern Ukonongo
+and Ukawendi.  Sheikh bin Nasib has been informed to-night of
+this determination.
+
+August 29th.--Shaw got up to-day for a little work.  Alas! all my
+fine-spun plans of proceeding by boat over the Victoria N'Yanza,
+thence down the Nile, have been totally demolished, I fear,
+through this war with Mirambo--this black Bonaparte.  Two months
+have been wasted here already.  The Arabs take such a long time to
+come to a conclusion.  Advice is plentiful, and words are as
+numerous  as the blades of grass in our valley; all that is wanting
+indecision.  The Arabs' hope and stay is dead--Khamis bin Abdullah
+is no more.  Where are the other warriors of whom the Wangwana
+and Wanyamwezi bards sing?  Where is mighty Kisesa--great Abdullah
+bin Nasib?  Where is Sayd, the son of Majid?  Kisesa is in
+Zanzibar, and Sayd, the son of Majid, is in Ujiji, as yet
+ignorant that his son has fallen in the forest of Wilyankuru.
+
+Shaw is improving fast.  I am unsuccessful as yet in procuring
+soldiers.  I almost despair of ever being able to move from here.
+It is such a drowsy, sleepy, slow, dreaming country.  Arabs,
+Wangwana, Wanyamwezi, are all alike--all careless how time flies.
+Their to-morrow means sometimes within a month.  To me it is
+simply maddening.
+
+August 30th.--Shaw will not work.  I cannot get him to stir
+himself.  I have petted him and coaxed him; I have even cooked
+little luxuries for him myself.  And, while I am straining
+every nerve to get ready for Ujiji, Shaw is satisfied with
+looking on listlessly.  What a change from the ready-handed bold
+man he was at Zanzibar!
+
+I sat down by his side to-day with my palm and needle in order
+to encourage him, and to-day, for the first time, I told him of
+the real nature of my mission.  I told him that I did not care
+about the geography of the country half as much as I cared about
+FINDING LIVINGSTONE!  I told him, for the first time,
+"Now, my dear Shaw, you think probably that I have been sent here
+to find the depth of the Tanganika.  Not a bit of it, man; I was
+told to find Livingstone.  It is to find Livingstone I am here.
+It is to find Livingstone I am going.  Don't you see, old fellow,
+the importance of the mission; don't you see what reward you will
+get from Mr. Bennett, if you will help me?  I am sure, if ever you
+come to New York, you will never be in want of a fifty-dollar bill.
+So shake yourself; jump about; look lively.  Say you will not die;
+that is half the battle.  Snap your fingers at the fever.  I will
+guarantee the fever won't kill you.  I have medicine enough for a
+regiment here!"
+
+His eyes lit up a little, but the light that shone in them shortly
+faded, and died.  I was quite disheartened.  I made some strong
+punch, to put fire in his veins, that I might see life in him.
+I put sugar, and eggs, and seasoned it with lemon and spice.
+"Drink, Shaw," said I, "and forget your infirmities.  You are not
+sick, dear fellow; it is only ennui you are feeling.  Look at
+Selim there.  Now, I will bet any amount, that he will not die;
+that I will carry him home safe to his friends!  I will carry you
+home also, if you will, let me!"
+
+September 1st:--According to Thani bin Abdullah whom I visited
+to-day, at his tembe in Maroro, Mirambo lost two hundred men in
+the attack upon Tabora, while the Arabs' losses were, five Arabs,
+thirteen freemen and eight slaves, besides three tembes, and over
+one hundred small huts burned, two hundred and eighty ivory
+tusks, and sixty cows and bullocks captured.
+
+September 3rd.--Received a packet of letters and newspapers from
+Capt. Webb, at Zanzibar.  What a good thing it is that one's
+friends, even in far America, think of the absent one in Africa!
+They tell me, that no one dreams of my being in Africa yet!
+
+I applied to Sheikh bin Nasib to-day to permit Livingstone's
+caravan to go under my charge to Ujiji, but he would not listen
+to it.  He says he feels certain I am going to my death.
+
+September 4th.--Shaw is quite well to-day, he says.  Selim is down
+with the fever.  My force is gradually increasing, though some of
+my old soldiers are falling off.  Umgareza is blind; Baruti has
+the small-pox very badly; Sadala has the intermittent.
+
+September 5th.--Baruti died this morning.  He was one of my best
+soldiers; and was one of those men who accompanied Speke to Egypt.
+Baruti is number seven of those who have died since leaving
+Zanzibar.
+
+To-day my ears have been poisoned with the reports of the Arabs,
+about the state of the country I am about to travel through.
+"The roads are bad; they are all stopped; the Ruga-Ruga are out
+in the forests; the Wakonongo are coming from the south to help
+Mirambo; the Washensi are at war, one tribe against another."
+My men are getting dispirited, they have imbibed the fears of the
+Arabs and the Wanyamwezi.  Bombay begins to feel that I had better
+go back to the coast, and try again some other time.
+
+We buried Baruti under the shade of the banyan-tree, a few yards
+west of my tembe.  The grave was made four and a half feet deep
+and three feet wide.  At the bottom on one side a narrow trench was
+excavated, into which the body was rolled on his side, with his
+face turned towards Mecca.  The body was dressed in a doti and
+a half of new American sheeting.  After it was placed properly
+in its narrow bed, a sloping roof of sticks, covered over with
+matting and old canvas, was made, to prevent the earth from
+falling over the body.  The grave was then filled, the soldiers
+laughing merrily.  On the top of the grave was planted a small
+shrub, and into a small hole made with the hand, was poured
+water lest he might feel thirsty--they said--on his way to
+Paradise; water was then sprinkled all ever the grave, and
+the gourd broken.  This ceremony being ended, the men recited
+the Arabic Fat-hah, after which they left the grave of their
+dead comrade to think no more of him,
+
+September 7th.--An Arab named Mohammed presented me to-day with a
+little boy-slave, called "Ndugu M'hali" (my brother's wealth).
+As I did not like the name, I called the chiefs of my caravan
+together, and asked them to give him a better name.  One suggested
+"Simba" (a lion), another said he thought "Ngombe" (a cow)
+would suit the boy-child, another thought he ought to be called
+"Mirambo," which raised a loud laugh.  Bombay thought "Bombay
+Mdogo" would suit my black-skinned infant very well.  Ulimengo,
+however, after looking at his quick eyes, and noting his celerity
+of movement, pronounced the name Ka-lu-la as the best for him,
+"because," said he, "just look at his eyes, so bright look at his
+form, so slim! watch his movements, how quick!  Yes, Kalulu is his
+name.""Yes, bana," said the others, "let it be Kalulu."
+
+"Kalulu" is a Kisawahili term for the young of the blue-buck
+(perpusilla) antelope.
+
+"Well, then," said I, water being brought in a huge tin pan,
+Selim, who was willing to stand godfather, holding him over the
+water, "let his name henceforth be Kalulu, and let no man take it
+from him," and thus it was that the little black boy of Mohammed's
+came to be called Kalulu.
+
+The Expedition is increasing in numbers.
+
+We had quite an alarm before dark.  Much firing was heard at
+Tabora, which led us to anticipate an attack on Kwihara.  It
+turned out, however, to be a salute fired in honour of the arrival
+of Sultan Kitambi to pay a visit to Mkasiwa, Sultan of Unyanyembe.
+
+September 8th.--Towards night Sheikh bin Nasib received a letter
+from an Arab at Mfuto, reporting that an attack was made on that
+place by Mirambo and his Watuta allies.  It also warned him to bid
+the people of Kwihara hold themselves in readiness, because if
+Mirambo succeeded in storming Mfuto, he would march direct on
+Kwihara.
+
+September 9th.--Mirambo was defeated with severe loss yesterday,
+in his attack upon Mfuto.  He was successful in an assault he made
+upon a small Wanyamwezi village, but when he attempted to storm
+Mfuto, he was repulsed with severe loss, losing three of his
+principal men.  Upon withdrawing his forces from the attack, the
+inhabitants sallied out, and followed him to the forest of Umanda,
+where he was again utterly routed, himself ingloriously flying
+from the field.
+
+The heads of his chief men slain in the attack were brought to
+Kwikuru, the boma of Mkasiwa.
+
+September 14th.--The Arab boy Selim is delirious from constant
+fever.  Shaw is sick again.  These two occupy most of my time.
+I am turned into a regular nurse, for I have no one to assist
+me in attending upon them.  If I try to instruct Abdul Kader
+in the art of being useful, his head is so befogged with the
+villainous fumes of Unyamwezi tobacco, that he wanders bewildered
+about, breaking dishes, and upsetting cooked dainties, until
+I get so exasperated that my peace of mind is broken completely
+for a full hour.  If I ask Ferajji, my now formally constituted
+cook, to assist, his thick wooden head fails to receive an idea,
+and I am thus obliged to play the part of chef de cuisine.
+
+September 15th.--The third month of my residence in Unyanyembe is
+almost finished, and I am still here, but I hope to be gone before
+the 23rd inst.
+
+All last night, until nine A.M. this morning, my soldiers danced
+and sang to the names of their dead comrades, whose bones now
+bleach in the forests of Wilyankuru.  Two or three huge pots of
+pombe failed to satisfy the raging thirst which the vigorous
+exercise they were engaged in, created.  So, early this
+morning, I was called upon to contribute a shukka for another
+potful of the potent liquor.
+
+To-day I was busy selecting the loads for each soldier and
+pagazi.  In order to lighten their labor as much as possible, I
+reduced each load from 70 lbs. to 50 lbs., by which I hope to be
+enabled to make some long marches.  I have been able to engage ten
+pagazis during the last two or three days.
+
+I have two or three men still very sick, and it is almost useless
+to expect that they will be able to carry anything, but I
+am in hopes that other men may be engaged to take their places
+before the actual day of departure, which now seems to be drawing
+near rapidly.
+
+September 16th.--We have almost finished our work--on the fifth day
+from this--God willing--we shall march. I engaged two more pagazis
+besides two guides, named Asmani and Mabruki.  If vastness of the
+human form could terrify any one, certainly Asmani's appearance
+is well calculated to produce that effect.  He stands considerably
+over six feet without shoes, and has shoulders broad enough for two
+ordinary men.
+
+To-morrow I mean to give the people a farewell feast, to celebrate
+our departure from this forbidding and unhappy country.
+
+September 17th.--The banquet is ended.  I slaughtered two bullocks,
+and had a barbacue; three sheep, two goats, and fifteen chickens,
+120 lbs. of rice, twenty large loaves of bread made of Indian
+corn-flour, one hundred eggs, 10 lbs. of butter, and five gallons
+of sweet-milk, were the contents of which the banquet was formed.
+The men invited their friends and neighbours, and about one hundred
+women and children partook of it.
+
+After the banquet was ended, the pombe, or native beer, was brought
+in in five gallon pots, and the people commenced their dance,
+which continues even now as I write.
+
+September 19th.--I had a slight attack of fever to-day, which has
+postponed our departure.  Selim and Shaw are both recovered.
+
+About 8 P.M. Sheik bin Nasib came to me imploring me not to go
+away to-morrow, because I was so sick.  Thani Sakhburi suggested
+to me that I might stay another month.  In answer, I told them
+that white men are not accustomed to break their words.  I had
+said I would go, and I intended to go.
+
+Sheikh bin Nasib gave up all hope of inducing me to remain another
+day, and he has gone away, with a promise to write to Seyd Burghash
+to tell him how obstinate I am; and that I am determined to be
+killed.  This was a parting shot.
+
+About 10 P.M. the fever had gone.  All were asleep in the tembe
+but myself, and an unutterable loneliness came on me as I reflected
+on my position, and my intentions, and felt the utter lack of
+sympathy with me in all around.  It requires more nerve than I
+possess, to dispel all the dark presentiments that come upon the
+mind.  But probably what I call presentiments are simply the
+impress on the mind of the warnings which these false-hearted Arabs
+have repeated so often.  This melancholy and loneliness I feel,
+may probably have their origin from the same cause.  The single
+candle, which barely lights up the dark shade that fills the
+corners of my room, is but a poor incentive to cheerfulness.
+I feel as though I were imprisoned between stone walls.  But why
+should I feel as if baited by these stupid, slow-witted Arabs and
+their warnings and croakings?  I fancy a suspicion haunts my
+mind, as I write, that there lies some motive behind all this.
+I wonder if these Arabs tell me all these things to keep me here,
+in the hope that I might be induced another time to assist them
+in their war with Mirambo!  If they think so, they are much
+mistaken, for I have taken a solemn, enduring oath, an oath to be
+kept while the least hope of life remains in me, not to be tempted
+to break the resolution I have formed, never to give up the search,
+until I find Livingstone alive, or find his dead body; and never
+to return home without the strongest possible proofs that he is
+alive, or that he is dead.  No living man, or living men, shall
+stop me, only death can prevent me.  But death--not even this;
+I shall not die, I will not die, I cannot die!  And something
+tells me, I do not know what it is--perhaps it is the ever-
+living hopefulness of my own nature, perhaps it is the natural
+presumption born out of an abundant and glowing vitality, or
+the outcome of an overweening confidence in oneself--anyhow and
+everyhow, something tells me to-night I shall find him, and--write
+it larger--FIND HIM!  FIND HIM!  Even the words are inspiring.
+I feel more happy.  Have I uttered a prayer?  I shall sleep
+calmly to-night.
+
+I have felt myself compelled to copy out of my Diary the above
+notes, as they explain, written as they are on the spot, the
+vicissitudes of my "Life at Unyanyembe."  To me they appear
+to explain far better than any amount of descriptive writing,
+even of the most graphic, the nature of the life I led.  There
+they are, unexaggerated, in their literality, precisely as I
+conceived them at the time they happened.  They speak of fevers
+without number to myself and men, they relate our dangers, and
+little joys, our annoyances and our pleasures, as they occurred.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER X.  TO MRERA, UKONONGO.
+
+Departure from Unyanyembe.--The expedition reorganized.-Bombay.--
+Mr. Shaw returns sick to Unyanyembe.--A noble forest.-The fever
+described.--Happiness of the camp.--A park-land.--Herds of game
+and noble sport.--A mutiny.--Punishment of the ringleaders.
+Elephants.--Arrival at Mrera
+
+The 20th of September had arrived.  This was the day I had decided
+to cut loose from those who tormented me with their doubts, their
+fears, and beliefs, and commence the march to Ujiji by a southern
+route.  I was very weak from the fever that had attacked me the
+day before, and it was a most injudicious act to commence a march
+under such circumstances.  But I had boasted to Sheikh bin Nasib
+that a white man never breaks his word, and my reputation as a
+white man would have been ruined had I stayed behind, or postponed
+the march, in consequence of feebleness.
+
+I mustered the entire caravan outside the tembe, our flags and
+streamers were unfurled, the men had their loads resting on the
+walls, there was considerable shouting, and laughing, and negroidal
+fanfaronnade.  The Arabs had collected from curiosity's sake to see
+us off--all except Sheikh bin Nasib, whom I had offended by my
+asinine opposition to his wishes.  The old Sheikh took to his bed,
+but sent his son to bear me a last morsel of Philosophic
+sentimentality, which I was to treasure up as the last words of
+the patriarchal Sheikh, the son of Nasib, the son of Ali, the son
+of Sayf.  Poor Sheikh! if thou hadst only known what was at the
+bottom of this stubbornness--this ass-like determination to proceed
+the wrong way--what wouldst thou then have said, 0 Sheikh?  But the
+Sheikh comforted himself with the thought that I might know what I
+was about better than he did, which is most likely, only neither
+he nor any other Arab will ever know exactly the motive that
+induced me to march at all westward--when the road to the east was
+ever so much easier.
+
+My braves whom I had enlisted for a rapid march somewhere, out of
+Unyanyembe, were named as follows:--
+
+1.  John William Shaw, London, England.
+
+2.  Selim Heshmy, Arab.
+
+3.  Seedy Mbarak Mombay, Zanzibar.
+
+4.  Mabruki Spoke, ditto.
+
+5.  Ulimengo, ditto
+
+6.  Ambari, ditto.
+
+7.  Uledi, ditto.
+
+8.  Asmani, ditto.
+
+9.  Sarmean, ditto.
+
+10.  Kamna, ditto.
+
+11.  Zaidi, ditto.
+
+12.  Khamisi, ditto.
+
+13.  Chowpereh, Bagamoyo.
+
+14.  Kingaru, ditto.
+
+15.  Belali, ditto.
+
+16.  Ferous, Unyanyembe.
+
+17.  Rojab,  Bagamoyo.
+
+18.  Mabruk Unyanyembe, Unyanyembe.
+
+19.  Mtamani, ditto.
+
+20.  Chanda, Maroro.
+
+21.  Sadala, Zanzibar.
+
+22.  Kombo, ditto.
+
+23.  Saburi the Great, Maroro.
+
+24.  Saburi the Little, ditto.
+
+25.  Marora, ditto.
+
+26.  Ferajji (the cook), Zanzibar.
+
+27.  Mabruk Saleem, Zanzibar.
+
+28.  Baraka, ditto.
+
+29.  Ibrahim, Maroro.
+
+30.  Mabruk Ferous, ditto.
+
+31.  Baruti, Bagamoyo.
+
+32.  Umgareza, Zanzibar.
+
+33.  Hamadi (the guide), ditto.
+
+34.  Asmani,   ditto,    ditto.
+
+35.  Mabruk,   ditto     ditto.
+
+36.  Hamdallah (the guide), Tabora.
+
+37.  Jumah, Zanzibar.
+
+38.  Maganga, Mkwenkwe.
+
+39.  Muccadum, Tabora.
+
+40.  Dasturi, ditto.
+
+41.  Tumayona, Ujiji.
+
+42.  Mparamoto, Ujiji.
+
+43.  Wakiri, ditto.
+
+44.  Mufu, ditto.
+
+45.  Mpepo, ditto.
+
+46.  Kapingu, Ujiji.
+
+47.  Mashishanga, ditto.
+
+48.  Muheruka, ditto.
+
+49.  Missossi, ditto.
+
+50.  Tufum Byah, ditto.
+
+51.  Majwara (boy), Uganda.
+
+52.  Belali (boy), Uemba.
+
+53.  Kalulu (boy), Lunda.
+
+54.  Abdul Kader (tailor), Malabar.
+
+
+These are the men and boys whom I had chosen to be my companions
+on the apparently useless mission of seeking for the lost traveller,
+David Livingstone.  The goods with which I had burdened them,
+consisted of 1,000 doti, or 4,000 yds. of cloth, six bags of beads,
+four loads of ammunition, one tent, one bed and clothes, one box of
+medicine, sextant and books, two loads of tea, coffee, and sugar,
+one load of flour and candles, one load of canned meats, sardines,
+and miscellaneous necessaries, and one load of cooking utensils.
+
+The men were all in their places except Bombay.  Bombay had gone;
+he could not be found.  I despatched a man to hunt him up.  He
+was found weeping in the arms of his Delilah.
+
+"Why did you go away, Bombay, when you knew I intended to go, and
+was waiting?"
+
+"Oh, master, I was saying good-bye to my missis."
+
+" Oh, indeed?"
+
+"Yes, master; you no do it, when you go away?
+
+"Silence, sir."
+
+"Oh! all right."
+
+"What is the matter with you, Bombay?"
+
+"Oh, nuffin."
+
+As I saw he was in a humour to pick a quarrel with me before those
+Arabs who had congregated outside of my tembe to witness my departure;
+and as I was not in a humour to be balked by anything that might turn
+up, the consequence was, that I was obliged to thrash Bombay, an
+operation which soon cooled his hot choler, but brought down on my
+head a loud chorus of remonstrances from my pretended Arab friends--
+"Now, master, don't, don't--stop it, master: the poor man knows
+better than you what he and you may expect on the road you are now
+taking."
+
+If anything was better calculated to put me in a rage than Bombay's
+insolence before a crowd it was this gratuitous interference with
+what I considered my own especial business; but I restrained
+myself, though I told them, in a loud voice, that I did not choose
+to be interfered with, unless they wished to quarrel with me.
+
+"No, no, bana," they all exclaimed; "we do not wish to quarrel
+with you.  In the name of God! go on your way in peace."
+
+"Fare you well, then," said I, shaking hands with them.
+
+"Farewell, master, farewell.  We wish you, we are sure, all
+success, and God be with you, and guide you!"
+
+"March!"
+
+A parting salute was fired; the flags were raised up by the
+guides, each pagazi rushed for his load, and in a short time,
+with songs and shouts, the head of the Expedition had filed
+round the western end of my tembe along the road to Ugunda.
+
+"Now, Mr. Shaw, I am waiting, sir.  Mount your donkey, if you
+cannot walk."
+
+"Please, Mr. Stanley, I am afraid I cannot go."
+
+Why?"
+
+"I don't know, I am sure.  I feel very weak."
+
+"So am I weak.  It was but late last night, as you know, that the
+fever left me.  Don't back out before these Arabs; remember you
+are a white man.  Here, Selim, Mabruki, Bombay, help Mr. Shaw on
+his donkey, and walk by him."
+
+"Oh, bana, bans," said the Arabs, "don't take him.  Do you not see
+he is sick?  "
+
+" You keep away; nothing will prevent me from taking him.  He
+shall go."
+
+"Go on, Bombay."
+
+The last of my party had gone.  The tembe, so lately a busy
+scene, had already assumed a naked, desolate appearance.
+I turned towards the Arabs, lifted my hat, and said again,
+"Farewell," then faced about for the south, followed by my
+four young gun-bearers, Selim, Kalulu, Majwara, and Belali.
+
+After half an hour's march the scenery became more animated.
+Shaw began to be amused.  Bombay had forgotten our quarrel,
+and assured me, if I could pass Mirambo's country, I should
+"catch the Tanganika;" Mabruki Burton also believed we should.
+Selim was glad to leave Unyanyembe, where he had suffered so much
+from fever; and there was a something in the bold aspect of the
+hills which cropped upward--above fair valleys, that enlivened
+and encouraged me to proceed.
+
+In an hour and a half, we arrived at our camp in the Kinyamwezi
+village of Mkwenkwe, the birthplace--of our famous chanter Maganga.
+
+My tent was pitched, the goods were stored in one of the tembes;
+but one-half the men had returned to Kwihara, to take one more
+embrace of their wives and concubines.
+
+Towards night I was attacked once again with the intermittent
+fever.  Before morning it had departed, leaving me terribly
+prostrated with weakness.  I had heard the men conversing with each
+other over their camp-fires upon the probable prospects of the next
+day.  It was a question with them whether I should continue the
+march.  Mostly all were of opinion that, since the master was
+sick, there would be no march.  A superlative obstinacy, however,
+impelled me on, merely to spite their supine souls; but when I
+sallied out of my tent to call them to get ready, I found that
+at least twenty were missing; and Livingstone's letter-carrier,
+"Kaif-Halek"--or, How-do-ye-do?--had not arrived with Dr.
+Livingstone's letter-bag.
+
+Selecting twenty of the strongest and faithfulest men I despatched
+them back to Unyanyembe in search of the missing men; and Selim
+was sent to Sheikh bin Nasib to borrow, or buy, a long slave-chain.
+
+Towards night my twenty detectives returned with nine of the
+missing men.  The Wajiji had deserted in a body, and they could
+not be found.  Selim also returned with a strong chain, capable of
+imprisoning within the collars attached to it at least ten men.
+Kaif-Halek also appeared with the letter-bag which he was to convey
+to Livingstone under my escort.  The men were then addressed, and
+the slave-chain exhibited to them.  I told them that I was the
+first white man who had taken a slave-chain with him on his travels;
+but, as they were all so frightened of accompanying me, I was obliged
+to make use of it, as it was the only means of keeping them together.
+The good need never fear being chained by me--only the deserters,
+the thieves, who received their hire and presents, guns and
+ammunition, and then ran away.
+
+I would not put any one this time in chains; but whoever
+deserted after this day, I should halt, and not continue the march
+till I found him, after which he should march to Ujiji with the
+slave-chain round his neck.  "Do you hear?"--"Yes," was the
+answer.  "Do you understand?"--" Yes."
+
+We broke up camp at 6 P.M., and took the road for Inesuka, at which
+place we arrived at 8 P.M.
+
+When we were about commencing the march the next morning, it was
+discovered that two more had deserted.  Baraka and Bombay were at
+once despatched to Unyanyembe to bring back the two missing
+men--Asmani and Kingaru--with orders not to return without them.
+This was the third time that the latter had deserted, as the reader
+may remember.  While the pursuit was being effected we halted at
+the village of Inesuka, more for the sake of Shaw than any one
+else.
+
+In the evening the incorrigible deserters were brought back, and,
+as I had threatened, were well flogged and chained, to secure them
+against further temptation.  Bombay and Baraka had a picturesque
+story to relate of the capture; and, as I was in an exceedingly
+good humour, their services were rewarded with a fine cloth each.
+
+On the following morning another carrier had absconded, taking with
+him his hire of fifteen new cloths and a gun but to halt anywhere
+near Unyanyembe any longer was a danger that could be avoided only
+by travelling without stoppages towards the southern jungle-lands.
+It will be remembered I had in my train the redoubtable Abdul
+Kader, the tailor, he who had started from Bagamoyo with such
+bright anticipations of the wealth of ivory to be obtained in the
+great interior of Africa.  On this morning, daunted by the reports
+of the dangers ahead, Abdul Kader craved to be discharged.  He
+vowed he was sick, and unable to proceed any further.  As I was
+pretty well tired of him, I paid him off in cloth, and permitted
+him to go.
+
+About half way to Kasegera Mabruk Saleem was suddenly taken sick.
+I treated him with a grain of calomel, and a couple of ounces of
+brandy.  As he was unable to walk, I furnished him with a donkey.
+Another man named Zaidi was ill with a rheumatic fever; and Shaw
+tumbled twice off the animal he was riding, and required an
+infinite amount of coaxing to mount again.  Verily, my expedition
+was pursued by adverse fortunes, and it seemed as if the Fates had
+determined upon our return.  It really appeared as if everything
+was going to wreck and ruin.  If I were only fifteen days from
+Unyanyembe, thought I, I should be saved!
+
+Kasegera was a scene of rejoicing the afternoon and evening of our
+arrival.  Absentees had just returned from the coast, and the
+youths were brave in their gaudy bedizenment, their new barsatis,
+their soharis, and long cloths of bright new kaniki, with which
+they had adorned themselves behind some bush before they had
+suddenly appeared dressed in all this finery.  The women "Hi-hi'ed"
+like maenads, and the "Lu-lu-lu'ing" was loud, frequent, and
+fervent the whole of that afternoon.  Sylphlike damsels looked up
+to the youthful heroes with intensest admiration on their
+features; old women coddled and fondled them; staff-using,
+stooping-backed patriarchs blessed them.  This is fame in Unyamwezi!
+All the fortunate youths had to use their tongues until the wee
+hours of next morning had arrived, relating all the wonders they
+had seen near the Great Sea, and in the "Unguja," the island of
+Zanzibar; of how they saw great white men's ships, and numbers of
+white men, of their perils and trials during their journey through
+the land of the fierce Wagogo, and divers other facts, with which
+the reader and I are by this time well acquainted.
+
+On the 24th we struck camp, and marched through a forest of imbiti
+wood in a S.S.W. direction, and in about three hours came to Kigandu.
+
+On arriving before this village, which is governed by a daughter
+of Mkasiwa, we were informed we could not enter unless we paid
+toll.  As we would not pay toll, we were compelled to camp in a
+ruined, rat-infested boma, situated a mile to the left of Kigandu,
+being well scolded by the cowardly natives for deserting Mkasiwa
+in his hour of extremity.  We were accused of running away from
+the war.
+
+Almost on the threshold of our camp Shaw, in endeavouring to
+dismount, lost his stirrups, and fell prone on his face.  The
+foolish fellow actually, laid on the ground in the hot sun a
+full hour; and when I coldly asked him if he did not feel
+rather uncomfortable, he sat up, and wept like a child.
+
+"Do you wish to go back, Mr. Shaw?"
+
+"If you please.  I do not believe I can go any farther; and
+if you would only be kind enough, I should like to return very
+much."
+
+"Well, Mr.  Shaw, I have come to the conclusion that it is best,
+you should return.  My patience is worn out.  I have endeavoured
+faithfully to lift you above these petty miseries which you
+nourish so devotedly.  You are simply suffering from hypochondria.
+You imagine yourself sick, and nothing, evidently, will persuade
+you that you are not.  Mark my words--to return to Unyanyembe,
+is to DIE!  Should you happen to fall sick in Kwihara who knows
+how to administer medicine to you?  Supposing you are delirious,
+how can any of the soldiers know what you want, or what is
+beneficial and necessary for you?  Once again, I repeat, if you
+return, you DIE!"
+
+"Ah, dear me; I wish I had never ventured to come!  I thought
+life in Africa was so different from this.  I would rather go
+back if you will permit me."
+
+The next day was a halt, and arrangements were made for the
+transportation of Shaw back to Kwihara.  A strong litter was made,
+and four stout pagazis were hired at Kigandu to carry him.  Bread
+was baked, a canteen was filled with cold tea, and a leg of a kid
+was roasted for his sustenance while on the road.
+
+The night before we parted we spent together.  Shaw played some
+tunes on an accordion which I had purchased for him at Zanzibar;
+but, though it was only a miserable ten-dollar affair, I thought
+the homely tunes evoked from the instrument that night were divine
+melodies.  The last tune played before retiring was "Home, sweet
+Home."
+
+The morning of the 27th we were all up early:  There was considerable
+vis in our movements.  A long, long march lay before us that day;
+but then I was to leave behind all the sick and ailing.  Only
+those who were healthy, and could march fast and long, were to
+accompany me.  Mabruk Saleem I left in charge of a native doctor,
+who was to medicate him for a gift of cloth which I gave him in
+advance.
+
+The horn sounded to get ready.  Shaw was lifted in his litter on
+the shoulders of his carriers.  My men formed two ranks; the
+flags were lifted; and between these two living rows, and under
+those bright streamers, which were to float over the waters of
+the Tanganika before he should see them again, Shaw was borne
+away towards the north; while we filed off to the south, with
+quicker and more elastic steps, as if we felt an incubus had
+been taken from us.
+
+We ascended a ridge bristling with syenite boulders of massive
+size, appearing above a forest of dwarf trees.  The view which we
+saw was similar to that we had often seen elsewhere.  An
+illimitable forest stretching in grand waves far beyond the ken of
+vision--ridges, forest-clad, rising gently one above another until
+they receded in the dim purple-blue distance --with a warm haze
+floating above them, which, though clear enough in our
+neighbourhood, became impenetrably blue in the far distance.
+Woods, woods, woods, leafy branches, foliage globes, or
+parachutes, green, brown, or sere in colour, forests one above
+another, rising, falling, and receding--a very leafy ocean.  The
+horizon, at all points, presents the same view, there may be an
+indistinct outline of a hill far away, or here and there a tall
+tree higher than the rest conspicuous in its outlines against the
+translucent sky--with this exception it is the same--the same clear
+sky dropping into the depths of the forest, the same outlines, the
+same forest, the same horizon, day after day, week after week; we
+hurry to the summit of a ridge, expectant of a change, but the
+wearied eyes, after wandering over the vast expanse, return to the
+immediate surroundings, satiated with the eversameness of such
+scenes.  Carlyle, somewhere in his writings, says, that though the
+Vatican is great, it is but the chip of an eggshell compared to the
+star-fretted dome where Arcturus and Orion glance for ever; and I
+say that, though the grove of Central Park, New York, is grand
+compared to the thin groves seen in other great cities, that though
+the Windsor and the New Forests may be very fine and noble in
+England, yet they are but fagots of sticks compared to these
+eternal forests of Unyamwezi.
+
+We marched three hours, and then halted for refreshments.  I
+perceived that the people were very tired, not yet inured to a
+series of long marches, or rather, not in proper trim for earnest,
+hard work after our long rest in Kwihara.  When we resumed our
+march again there were several manifestations of bad temper and
+weariness.  But a few good-natured remarks about their laziness
+put them on their mettle, and we reached Ugunda at 2 P.M. after
+another four hours' spurt.
+
+Ugunda is a very large village in the district of Ugunda, which
+adjoins the southern frontier of Unyanyembe.  The village probably
+numbers four hundred families, or two thousand souls.  It is well
+protected by a tall and strong palisade of three-inch timber.
+Stages have been erected at intervals above the palisades with
+miniature embrasures in the timber, for the muskets of the
+sharpshooters, who take refuge within these box-like stages to
+pick out the chiefs of an attacking force.  An inner ditch, with
+the sand or soil thrown up three or four feet high against the
+palings, serves as protection for the main body of the defenders,
+who kneel in the ditch, and are thus enabled to withstand a very
+large force.  For a mile or two outside the village all obstructions
+are  cleared, and the besieged are thus warned by sharp-eyed watchers
+to be prepared for the defence before the enemy approaches within
+musket range.  Mirambo withdrew his force of robbers from before
+this strongly-defended village after two or three ineffectual attempts
+to storm it, and the Wagunda have been congratulating themselves
+ever since, upon having driven away the boldest marauder that
+Unyamwezi has seen for generations.
+
+The Wagunda have about three thousand acres under cultivation
+around their principal village, and this area suffices to produce
+sufficient grain not only for their own consumption, but also for
+the many caravans which pass by this way for Ufipa and Marungu.
+
+However brave the Wagunda may be within the strong enclosure with
+which they have surrounded their principal village, they are not
+exempt from the feeling of insecurity which fills the soul of a
+Mnyamwezi during war-time.  At this place the caravans are
+accustomed to recruit their numbers from the swarms of pagazis who
+volunteer to accompany them to the distant ivory regions south;
+but I could not induce a soul to follow me, so great was their
+fear of Mirambo and his Ruga-Raga.  They were also full of rumors
+of wars ahead.  It was asserted that Mbogo was advancing towards
+Ugunda with a thousand Wakonongo, that the Wazavira had attacked a
+caravan four months previously, that Simba was scouring the country
+with a band of ferocious mercenaries, and much more of the same
+nature and to the same intent.
+
+On the 28th we arrived at a small snug village embosomed within the
+forest called Benta, three hours and a quarter from Ugunda.  The
+road led through the cornfields of the Wagunda, and then entered
+the clearings around the villages of Kisari, within one of which we
+found the proprietor of a caravan who was drumming up carriers for
+Ufipa.  He had been halted here two months, and he made strenuous
+exertions to induce my men to join his caravan, a proceeding that
+did not tend to promote harmony between us.  A few days afterwards
+I found, on my return, that he had given up the idea of proceeding
+south.  Leaving Kisari, we marched through a thin jungle of black
+jack, over sun-cracked ground with here and there a dried-up pool,
+the bottom of which was well tramped by elephant and rhinoceros.
+Buffalo and zebra tracks were now frequent, and we were buoyed up
+with the hope that before long we should meet game.
+
+Benta was well supplied with Indian corn and a grain which the
+natives called choroko, which I take to be vetches.  I purchased
+a large supply of choroko for my own personal use, as I found it
+to be a most healthy food.  The corn was stored on the flat roofs
+of the tembes in huge boxes made out of the bark of the mtundu-tree.
+The largest box I have ever seen in Africa was seen here.  It might
+be taken for a Titan's hat-box; it was seven feet in diameter, and
+ten feet in height.
+
+On the 29th, after travelling in a S.W. by S. direction, we
+reached Kikuru.  The march lasted for five hours over sun-cracked
+plains, growing the black jack, and ebony, and dwarf shrubs, above
+which numerous ant-hills of light chalky-coloured earth appeared
+like sand dunes.
+
+The mukunguru, a Kisawahili term for fever, is frequent in this
+region of extensive forests and flat plains, owing to the imperfect
+drainage provided by nature for them.  In the dry season there
+is nothing very offensive in the view of the country.  The burnt
+grass gives rather a sombre aspect to the country, covered with
+the hard-baked tracks of animals which haunt these plains during
+the latter part of the rainy season.  In the forest numbers of
+trees lie about in the last stages of decay, and working
+away with might and main on the prostrate trunks may be seen
+numberless insects of various species.  Impalpably, however, the
+poison of the dead and decaying vegetation is inhaled into the
+system with a result sometimes as fatal as that which is said to
+arise from the vicinity of the Upas-tree.
+
+The first evil results experienced from the presence of malaria are
+confined bowels and an oppressive languor, excessive drowsiness,
+and a constant disposition to yawn.  The tongue assumes a
+yellowish, sickly hue, coloured almost to blackness; even the
+teeth become yellow, and are coated with an offensive matter.
+The eyes of the patient sparkle lustrously, and become suffused
+with water.  These are sure symptoms of the incipient fever which
+shortly will rage through the system.
+
+Sometimes this fever is preceded by a violent shaking fit, during
+which period blankets may be heaped on the patient's form, with
+but little amelioration of the deadly chill he feels.  It is then
+succeeded by an unusuall/y/ severe headache, with excessive pains
+about the loins and spinal column, which presently will spread
+over the shoulder-blades, and, running up the neck, find a final
+lodgment in the back and front of the head.  Usually, however, the
+fever is not preceded by a chill, but after languor and torpitude
+have seized him, with excessive heat and throbbing temples, the
+loin and spinal column ache, and raging thirst soon possesses him.
+The brain becomes crowded with strange fancies, which sometimes
+assume most hideous shapes.  Before the darkened vision of the
+suffering man, float in a seething atmosphere, figures of created
+and uncreated reptiles, which are metamorphosed every instant into
+stranger shapes and designs, growing every moment more confused,
+more complicated, more hideous and terrible.  Unable to bear longer
+the distracting scene, he makes an effort and opens, his eyes,
+and dissolves the delirious dream, only, however, to glide again
+unconsciously into another dream-land where another unreal inferno
+is dioramically revealed, and new agonies suffered.  Oh! the many
+many hours, that I have groaned under the terrible incubi which
+the fits of real delirium evoke.  Oh! the racking anguish of body
+that a traveller in Africa must undergo!  Oh! the spite, the
+fretfulness, the vexation which the horrible phantasmagoria of
+diabolisms induce!  The utmost patience fails to appease, the most
+industrious attendance fails to gratify, the deepest humility
+displeases.  During these terrible transitions, which induce
+fierce distraction, Job himself would become irritable, insanely
+furious, and choleric.  A man in such a state regards himself as
+the focus of all miseries.  When recovered, he feels chastened,
+becomes urbane and ludicrously amiable, he conjures up fictitious
+delights from all things which, but yesterday, possessed for him
+such awful portentous aspects.  His men he regards with love and
+friendship; whatever is trite he views with ecstasy.  Nature appears
+charming; in the dead woods and monotonous forest his mind becomes
+overwhelmed with delight.  I speak for myself, as a careful
+analysation of the attack, in all its severe, plaintive, and silly
+phases, appeared to me.  I used to amuse myself with taking notes
+of the humorous and the terrible, the fantastic and exaggerated
+pictures that were presented to me--even while suffering the
+paroxysms induced by fever.
+
+We arrived at a large pool, known as the Ziwani, after a four
+hours' march in a S.S.W. direction, the 1st of October.  We
+discovered an old half-burnt khambi, sheltered by a magnificent
+mkuyu (sycamore), the giant of the forests of Unyamwezi, which
+after an hour we transformed into a splendid camp.
+
+If I recollect rightly, the stem of the tree measured thirty-eight
+feet in circumference.  It is the finest tree of its kind I have
+seen in Africa.  A regiment might with perfect ease have reposed
+under this enormous dome of foliage during a noon halt.  The
+diameter of the shadow it cast on the ground was one hundred and
+twenty feet.  The healthful vigor that I was enjoying about this
+time enabled me to regard my surroundings admiringly.  A feeling
+of comfort and perfect contentment took possession of me, such as
+I knew not while fretting at Unyanyembe, wearing my life away in
+inactivity.  I talked with my people as to my friends and equals.
+We argued with each other about our prospects in quite a
+companionable, sociable vein.
+
+When daylight was dying, and the sun was sinking down rapidly over
+the western horizon, vividly painting the sky with the colours of
+gold and silver, saffron, and opal, when its rays and gorgeous
+tints were reflected upon the tops of the everlasting forest, with
+the quiet and holy calm of heaven resting upon all around, and
+infusing even into the untutored minds of those about me the
+exquisite enjoyments of such a life as we were now leading in the
+depths of a great expanse of forest, the only and sole human
+occupants of it--this was the time, after our day's work was ended,
+and the camp was in a state of perfect security, when we all would
+produce our pipes, and could best enjoy the labors which we had
+performed, and the contentment which follows a work well done.
+
+Outside nothing is heard beyond the cry of a stray florican,
+or guinea-fowl, which has lost her mate, or the hoarse croaking
+of the frogs in the pool hard by, or the song of the crickets
+which seems to lull the day to rest; inside our camp are heard
+the gurgles of the gourd pipes as the men inhale the blue ether,
+which I also love.  I am contented and happy, stretched on my
+carpet under the dome of living foliage, smoking my short
+meerschaum, indulging in thoughts--despite the beauty of the still
+grey light of the sky; and of the air of serenity which prevails
+around--of home and friends in distant America, and these thoughts
+soon change to my work--yet incomplete--to the man who to me is
+yet a myth, who, for all I know, may be dead, or may be near or
+far from me tramping through just such a forest, whose tops I
+see bound the view outside my camp.  We are both on the same soil,
+perhaps in the same forest--who knows?--yet is he to me so far
+removed that he might as well be in his own little cottage of Ulva.
+Though I am even now ignorant of his very existence, yet I feel
+a certain complacency, a certain satisfaction which would be
+difficult to describe.  Why is man so feeble, and weak, that he
+must tramp, tramp hundreds of miles to satisfy the doubts his
+impatient and uncurbed mind feels?  Why cannot my form accompany
+the bold flights of my mind and satisfy the craving I feel to
+resolve the vexed question that ever rises to my lips--"Is he
+alive?"  O soul of mine, be patient, thou hast a felicitous
+tranquillity, which other men might envy thee!  Sufficient for
+the hour is the consciousness thou hast that thy mission is a
+holy one!  Onward, and be hopeful!
+
+Monday, the 2nd of October, found us traversing the forest and
+plain that extends from the Ziwani to Manyara, which occupied us
+six and a half hours.  The sun was intensely hot; but the mtundu
+and miombo trees grew at intervals, just enough to admit free
+growth to each tree, while the blended foliage formed a grateful
+shade.  The path was clear and easy, the tamped and firm red soil
+offered no obstructions.  The only provocation we suffered was
+from the attacks of the tsetse, or panga (sword) fly, which swarmed
+here.  We knew we were approaching an extensive habitat of game,
+and we were constantly on the alert for any specimens that might
+be inhabiting these forests.
+
+While we were striding onward, at the rate of nearly three miles
+an hour, the caravan I perceived sheered off from the road,
+resuming it about fifty yards ahead of something on the road,
+to which the attention of the men was directed.  On coming up,
+I found the object to be the dead body of a man, who had fallen
+a victim to that fearful scourge of Africa, the small-pox.
+He was one of Oseto's gang of marauders, or guerillas, in the
+service of Mkasiwa of Unyanyembe, who were hunting these forests
+for the guerillas of Mirambo.  They had been returning from
+Ukonongo from a raid they had instituted against the Sultan
+of Mbogo, and they had left their comrade to perish in the road.
+He had apparently been only one day dead.
+
+Apropos of this, it was a frequent thing with us to discover a
+skeleton or a skull on the roadside.  Almost every day we saw
+one, sometimes two, of these relics of dead, and forgotten
+humanity.
+
+Shortly after this we emerged from the forest, and entered a
+mbuga, or plain, in which we saw a couple of giraffes, whose long
+necks were seen towering above a bush they had been nibbling at.
+This sight was greeted with a shout; for we now knew we had
+entered the game country, and that near the Gombe creek, or river,
+where we intended to halt, we should see plenty of these animals.
+
+A walk of three hours over this hot plain brought us to the
+cultivated fields of Manyara.  Arriving before the village-gate,
+we were forbidden to enter, as the country was throughout in a
+state of war, and it behoved them to be very careful of admitting
+any party, lest the villagers might be compromised.  We were, however,
+directed to a khambi to the right of the village, near some pools
+of clear water, where we discovered some half dozen ruined huts,
+which looked very uncomfortable to tired people.
+
+After we had built our camp, the kirangozi was furnished with some
+cloths to purchase food from the village for the transit of a
+wilderness in front of us, which was said to extend nine marches,
+or 135 miles.  He was informed that the Mtemi had strictly
+prohibited his people from selling any grain whatever.
+
+This evidently was a case wherein the exercise of a little
+diplomacy could only be effective; because it would detain us
+several days here, if we were compelled to send men back to Kikuru
+for provisions.  Opening a bale of choice goods, I selected two
+royal cloths, and told Bombay to carry them to him, with the
+compliments and friendship of the white man.  The Sultan sulkily
+refused them, and bade him return to the white man and tell him
+not to bother him.  Entreaties were of no avail, he would not
+relent; and the men, in exceedingly bad temper, and hungry, were
+obliged to go to bed supperless.  The words of Njara, a slave-
+trader, and parasite of the great Sheikh bin Nasib, recurred to me.
+"Ah, master, master, you will find the people will be too much
+for you, and that you will have to return.  The Wa-manyara are
+bad, the Wakonongo are very bad, the Wazavira are the worst
+of all.  You have come to this country at a bad time.  It
+is war everywhere."  And, indeed, judging from the tenor of the
+conversations around our camp-fires, it seemed but too evident.
+There was every prospect of a general decamp of all my people.
+However, I told them not to be discouraged; that I would get
+food for them in the morning.
+
+The bale of choice cloths was opened again next morning, and
+four royal cloths were this time selected, and two dotis of Merikani,
+and Bombay was again despatched, burdened with compliments, and
+polite words.
+
+It was necessary to be very politic with a man who was so surly,
+and too powerful to make an enemy of.  What if he made up his mind
+to imitate the redoubtable Mirambo, King of Uyoweh!  The effect of
+my munificent liberality was soon seen in the abundance of provender
+which came to my camp.  Before an hour went by, there came boxes
+full of choroko, beans, rice, matama or dourra, and Indian corn,
+carried on the heads of a dozen villagers, and shortly after the
+Mtemi himself came, followed by about thirty musketeers and
+twenty spearmen, to visit the first white man ever seen on this
+road.  Behind these warriors came a liberal gift, fully equal in
+value to that sent to him, of several large gourds of honey, fowls,
+goats, and enough vetches and beans to supply my men with four
+days' food.
+
+I met the chief at the gate of my camp, and bowing profoundly,
+invited him to my tent, which I had arranged as well as my
+circumstances would permit, for this reception.  My Persian carpet
+and bear skin were spread out, and a broad piece of bran-new
+crimson cloth covered my kitanda, or bedstead.
+
+The chief, a tall robust man, and his chieftains, were invited to
+seat themselves.  They cast a look of such gratified surprise at
+myself, at my face, my clothes, and guns, as is almost impossible
+to describe.  They looked at me intently for a few seconds, and
+then at each other, which ended in an uncontrollable burst of
+laughter, and repeated snappings of the fingers.  They spoke the
+Kinyamwezi language, and my interpreter Maganga was requested to
+inform the chief of the great delight I felt in seeing them.
+After a short period expended in interchanging compliments,
+and a competitive excellence at laughing at one another, their
+chief desired me to show him my guns.  The "sixteen-shooter,"
+the Winchester rifle, elicited a thousand flattering observations
+from the excited man; and the tiny deadly revolvers, whose beauty
+and workmanship they thought were superhuman, evoked such
+gratified eloquence that I was fain to try something else.
+The double-barrelled guns fired with heavy charges of power,
+caused them to jump up in affected alarm, and then to subside into
+their seats convulsed with laughter.  As the enthusiasm of my
+guests increased, they seized each other's index fingers, screwed
+them, and pulled at them until I feared they would end in their
+dislocation.  After having explained to them the difference
+between white men and Arabs, I pulled out my medicine chest,
+which evoked another burst of rapturous sighs at the cunning
+neatness of the array of vials.  He asked what they meant.
+
+"Dowa," I replied sententiously, a word which may be
+interpreted--medicine.
+
+"Oh-h, oh-h," they murmured admiringly.  I succeeded, before long,
+in winning unqualified admiration, and my superiority, compared to
+the best of the Arabs they had seen, was but too evident.  "Dowa,
+dowa," they added.
+
+"Here," said I, uncorking a vial of medicinal brandy, "is the
+Kisungu pombe " (white man's beer); "take a spoonful and try
+it," at the same time handing it.
+
+"Hacht, hacht, oh, hacht,! what! eh! what strong beer the
+white men have!  Oh, how my throat burns!"
+
+"Ah, but it is good," said I, "a little of it makes men feel
+strong, and good; but too much of it makes men bad, and they die."
+
+"Let me have some," said one of the chiefs; "and me," " and me,"
+"and me," as soon as each had tasted.
+
+"I next produced a bottle of concentrated ammonia, which as I
+explained was for snake bites, and head-aches; the Sultan
+immediately complained he had a head-ache, and must have a little.
+Telling him to close his eyes, I suddenly uncorked the bottle, and
+presented it to His Majesty's nose.  The effect was magical, for he
+fell back as if shot, and such contortions as his features
+underwent are indescribable.  His chiefs roared with laughter,
+and clapped their hands, pinched each other, snapped their fingers,
+and committed many other ludicrous things.  I verily believe if such
+a scene were presented on any stage in the world the effect of it
+would be visible instantaneously on the audience; that had they
+seen it as I saw it, they would have laughed themselves to
+hysteria and madness.  Finally the Sultan recovered himself, great
+tears rolling down his cheeks, and his features quivering with
+laughter, then he slowly uttered the word "kali,"--hot, strong,
+quick, or ardent medicine.  He required no more, but the other
+chiefs pushed forward to get one wee sniff, which they no sooner
+had, than all went into paroxysms of uncontrollable laughter.
+The entire morning was passed in this state visit, to the mutual
+satisfaction of all concerned.  "Oh," said the Sultan at parting,
+"these white men know everything, the Arabs are dirt compared to them!"
+
+That night Hamdallah, one of the guides, deserted, carrying with
+him his hire (27 doti), and a gun.  It was useless to follow him
+in the morning, as it would have detained me many more days than
+I could afford; but I mentally vowed that Mr. Hamdallah should
+work out those 27 doti of cloths before I reached the coast.
+
+Wednesday, October 4th, saw us travelling to the Gombe River,
+which is 4 h. 15 m.  march from Manyara.
+
+We had barely left the waving cornfields of my friend Ma-manyara
+before we came in sight of a herd of noble zebra; two hours
+afterwards we had entered a grand and noble expanse of park
+land, whose glorious magnificence and vastness of prospect,
+with a far-stretching carpet of verdure darkly flecked here
+and there by miniature clumps of jungle, with spreading trees
+growing here and there, was certainly one of the finest scenes
+to be seen in Africa.  Added to which, as I surmounted one of
+the numerous small knolls, I saw herds after herds of buffalo
+and zebra, giraffe and antelope, which sent the blood coursing
+through my veins in the excitement of the moment, as when I first
+landed on African soil.  We crept along the plain noiselessly to
+our camp on the banks of the sluggish waters of the Gombe. '
+
+Here at last was the hunter's Paradise!  How petty and
+insignificant appeared my hunts after small antelope and wild boar
+what a foolish waste of energies those long walks through damp
+grasses and through thorny jungles!  Did I not well remember '
+my first bitter experience in African jungles when in the maritime
+region!   But this--where is the nobleman's park that can match
+this scene?  Here is a soft, velvety expanse of young grass,
+grateful shade under those spreading clumps; herds of large and
+varied game browsing within easy rifle range.  Surely I must
+feel amply compensated now for the long southern detour I have
+made, when such a prospect as this opens to the view!  No
+thorny jungles and rank smelling swamps are here to daunt the
+hunter, and to sicken his aspirations after true sport!  No
+hunter could aspire after a nobler field to display his prowess.
+
+Having settled the position of the camp, which overlooked one of
+the pools found in the depression of the Gombe creek, I took my
+double-barrelled smooth-bore, and sauntered off to the park-land.
+Emerging from behind a clump, three fine plump spring-bok were
+seen browsing on the young grass just within one hundred yards.
+I knelt down and fired; one unfortunate antelope bounded upward
+instinctively, and fell dead.  Its companions sprang high into
+the air, taking leaps about twelve feet in length, as if they
+were quadrupeds practising gymnastics, and away they vanished,
+rising up like India-rubber balls; until a knoll hid them from
+view.  My success was hailed with loud shouts by the soldiers;
+who came running out from the camp as soon as they heard the
+reverberation of the gun, and my gun-bearer had his knife at
+the beast's throat, uttering a fervent "Bismillah!" as he
+almost severed the head from the body.
+
+Hunters were now directed to proceed east and north to procure
+meat, because in each caravan it generally happens that there are
+fundi, whose special trade it is to hunt for meat for the camp.
+Some of these are experts in stalking, but often find themselves
+in dangerous positions, owing to the near approach necessary,
+before they can fire their most inaccurate weapons with any certainty.
+
+After luncheon, consisting of spring-bok steak, hot corn-cake, and
+a cup of delicious Mocha coffee, I strolled towards the south-west,
+accompanied by Kalulu and Majwara, two boy gun-bearers.  The tiny
+perpusilla started up like rabbits from me as I stole along through
+the underbrush; the honey-bird hopped from tree to tree chirping
+its call, as if it thought I was seeking the little sweet treasure,
+the hiding-place of which it only knew; but no! I neither desired
+perpusilla nor the honey.  I was on the search for something great
+this day.  Keen-eyed fish-eagles and bustards poised on trees above
+the sinuous Gombe thought, and probably with good reason that I was
+after them; judging by the ready flight with which both species
+disappeared as they sighted my approach.  Ah, no! nothing but
+hartebeest, zebra, giraffe, eland, and buffalo this day!  After
+following the Gombe's course for about a mile, delighting my eyes
+with long looks at the broad and lengthy reaches of water to which
+I was so long a stranger, I came upon a scene which delighted the
+innermost recesses of my soul; five, six, seven, eight, ten
+zebras switching their beautiful striped bodies, and biting one
+another, within about one hundred and fifty yards.  The scene was
+so pretty, so romantic, never did I so thoroughly realize that I
+was in Central Africa.  I felt momentarily proud that I owned such
+a vast domain, inhabited with such noble beasts.  Here I possessed,
+within reach of a leaden ball, any one I chose of the beautiful
+animals, the pride of the African forests!  It was at my option to
+shoot any of them!  Mine they were without money or without
+price; yet, knowing this, twice I dropped my rifle, loth to wound
+the royal beasts, but--crack!  and a royal one was on his back
+battling the air with his legs.  Ah, it was such a pity! but,
+hasten, draw the keen sharp-edged knife across the beautiful
+stripes which fold around the throat; and--what an ugly gash!
+it is done, and 1 have a superb animal at my feet.  Hurrah!
+I shall taste of Ukonongo zebra to-night.
+
+I thought a spring-bok and zebra enough for one day's sport,
+especially after a long march.  The Gombe, a long stretch of
+deep water, winding in and out of green groves, calm, placid,
+with lotus leaves lightly resting on its: surface, all pretty,
+picturesque, peaceful as a summer's dream, looked very inviting
+for a bath.  I sought out the most shady spot under a wide-
+spreading mimosa, from which the ground sloped smooth as a lawn,
+to the still, clear water.  I ventured to undress, and had already
+stepped in to my ancles in the water, and had brought my hands
+together for a glorious dive, when my attention was attracted by
+an enormously long body which shot into view, occupying the spot
+beneath the surface that I was about to explore by a "header."
+Great heavens, it was a crocodile!  I sprang backward instinctively,
+and this proved my salvation, for the monster turned away with the
+most disappointed look, and I was left to congratulate myself upon
+my narrow escape from his jaws, and to register a vow never to be
+tempted again by the treacherous calm of an African river.
+
+As soon as I had dressed I turned away from the now repulsive
+aspect of the stream.  In strolling through the jungle, towards
+my camp, I detected the forms of two natives looking sharply about
+them, and, after bidding my young attendants to preserve perfect
+quiet, I crept on towards them, and, by the aid of a thick clump
+of underbush, managed to arrive within a few feet of the natives
+undetected.  Their mere presence in the immense forest, unexplained,
+was a cause of uneasiness in the then disturbed state of the country,
+and my intention was to show myself suddenly to them, and note its
+effect, which, if it betokened anything hostile to the Expedition,
+could without difficulty be settled at once, with the aid of my
+double-barrelled smooth-bore.
+
+As I arrived on one side of this bush, the two suspicious-looking
+natives arrived on the other side, and we were separated by only
+a few feet.  I made a bound, and we were face to face.  The natives
+cast a glance at the sudden figure of a white man, and seemed
+petrified for a moment, but then, recovering themselves, they
+shrieked out, "Bana, bana, you don't know us.  We are Wakonongo,
+who came to your camp to accompany you to Mrera, and we are
+looking for honey."
+
+"Oh, to be sure, you are the Wakonongo.  Yes--Yes.  Ah, it is all
+right now, I thought you might be Ruga-Ruga."
+
+So the two parties, instead of being on hostile terms with each
+other, burst out laughing.  The Wakonongo enjoyed it very much,
+and laughed heartily as they proceeded on their way to search
+for the wild honey.  On a piece of bark they carried a little
+fire with which they smoked the bees out from their nest in the
+great mtundu-trees.
+
+The adventures of the day were over; the azure of the sky had
+changed to a dead grey; the moon was appearing just over the
+trees; the water of the Gombe was like a silver belt; hoarse
+frogs bellowed their notes loudly by the margin of the creek;
+the fish-eagles uttered their dirge-like cries as they were
+perched high on the tallest tree; elands snorted their warning
+to the herds in the forest; stealthy forms of the carnivora stole
+through the dark woods outside of our camp.  Within the high
+inclosure of bush and thorn, which we had raised around our camp,
+all was jollity, laughter, and radiant, genial comfort.  Around
+every camp-fire dark forms of men were seen squatted: one man
+gnawed at a luscious bone; another sucked the rich marrow in a
+zebra's leg-bone; another turned the stick, garnished with huge
+kabobs, to the bright blaze; another held a large rib over a
+flame; there were others busy stirring industriously great black
+potfuls of ugali, and watching anxiously the meat simmering, and
+the soup bubbling, while the fire-light flickered and danced
+bravely, and cast a bright glow over the naked forms of the men,
+and gave a crimson tinge to the tall tent that rose in the centre
+of the camp, like a temple sacred to some mysterious god; the
+fires cast their reflections upon the massive arms of the trees,
+as they branched over our camp, and, in the dark gloom of their
+foliage, the most fantastic shadows were visible.  Altogether
+it was a wild, romantic, and impressive scene.  But little recked
+my men for shadows and moonlight, for crimson tints, and temple-
+like tents--they were all busy relating their various experiences,
+and gorging themselves with the rich meats our guns had obtained
+for us.  One was telling how he had stalked a wild boar, and the
+furious onset the wounded animal made on him, causing him to drop
+his gun, and climb a tree, and the terrible grunt of the beast he
+well remembered, and the whole welkin rang with the peals of
+laughter which his mimic powers evoked.  Another had shot a
+buffalo-calf, and another had bagged a hartebeest; the Wakonongo
+related their laughable rencontre with me in the woods, and were
+lavish in their description of the stores of honey to be found
+in the woods; and all this time Selim and his youthful subs were
+trying their sharp teeth on the meat of a young pig which one
+of the hunters had shot, but which nobody else would eat, because
+of the Mohammedan aversion to pig, which they had acquired during
+their transformation from negro savagery to the useful docility
+of the Zanzibar freed-man.
+
+We halted the two following days, and made frequent raids on the
+herds of this fine country.  The first day I was fairly successful
+again in the sport.  I bagged a couple of antelopes, a kudu
+(A. strepsiceros) with fine twisting horns, and a pallah-buck
+(A. melampus), a reddish-brown animal, standing about three and
+a half feet, with broad posteriors.  I might have succeeded in
+getting dozens of animals had I any of those accurate, heavy
+rifles manufactured by Lancaster, Reilly, or Blissett, whose every
+shot tells.  But my weapons, save my light smoothbore, were unfit
+for African game.  My weapons were more for men.  With the Winchester
+rifle, and the Starr's carbine, I was able to hit anything within
+two hundred yards, but the animals, though wounded, invariably
+managed to escape the knife, until I was disgusted with the pea-
+bullets.  What is wanted for this country is a heavy bore--No. 10
+or 12 is the real bone-crusher--that will drop every animal shot
+in its tracks, by which all fatigue and disappointment are avoided.
+Several times during these two days was I disappointed after most
+laborious stalking and creeping along the ground.  Once I came
+suddenly upon an eland while I had a Winchester rifle in my hand--
+the eland and myself mutually astonished--at not more than
+twenty-five yards apart.  I fired at its chest, and bullet, true
+to its aim, sped far into the internal parts, and the blood spouted
+from the wound: in a few minutes he was far away, and I was too
+much disappointed to follow him.  All love of the chase seemed to be
+dying away before these several mishaps.  What were two antelopes
+for one day's sport to the thousands that browsed over the plain?
+
+The animals taken to camp during our three days' sport were two
+buffaloes, two wild boar, three hartebeest, one zebra, and one
+pallah; besides which, were shot eight guinea-fowls, three
+florican, two fish-eagles, one pelican, and one of the men caught
+a couple of large silurus fish.  In the meantime the people had
+cut, sliced, and dried this bounteous store of meat for our transit
+through the long wilderness before us.
+
+Saturday the 7th day of October, we broke up camp, to the great
+regret of the meat-loving, gormandizing Wangwana.  They delegated
+Bombay early in the morning to speak to me, and entreat of me to
+stop one day longer.  It was ever the case; they had always an
+unconquerable aversion to work, when in presence of meat.  Bombay
+was well scolded for bearing any such request to me after two
+days' rest, during which time they had been filled to repletion
+with meat.  And Bombay was by no means in the best of humour;
+flesh-pots full of meat were more to his taste than a constant
+tramping, and its consequent fatigues.  I saw his face settle into
+sulky ugliness, and his great nether lip hanging down limp, which
+meant as if expressed in so many words, "Well, get them to move
+yourself, you wicked hard man!  I shall not help you."
+
+An ominous silence followed my order to the kirangozi to sound the
+horn, and the usual singing and chanting were not heard.  The men
+turned sullenly to their bales, and Asmani, the gigantic guide,
+our fundi, was heard grumblingly to say he was sorry he had
+engaged to guide me to the Tanganika.  However, they started,
+though reluctantly.  I stayed behind with my gunbearers, to drive
+the stragglers on.  In about half an hour I sighted the caravan at
+a dead stop, with the bales thrown on the ground, and the men
+standing in groups conversing angrily and excitedly.
+
+Taking my double-barrelled gun from Selim's shoulder, I selected a
+dozen charges of buck-shot, and slipping two of them into the
+barrels, and adjusting my revolvers in order for handy work, I
+walked on towards them.  I noticed that the men seized their guns,
+as I advanced.  When within thirty yards of the groups, I
+discovered the heads of two men appear above an anthill on my left,
+with the barrels of their guns carelessly pointed toward the road.
+
+I halted, threw the barrel of my gun into the hollow of the left
+hand, and then, taking a deliberate aim at them, threatened to blow
+their heads off if they did not come forward to talk to me.  These
+two men were, gigantic Asmani and his sworn companion Mabruki, the
+guides of Sheikh bin Nasib.  As it was dangerous not to comply
+with such an order, they presently came, but, keeping my eye on
+Asmani, I saw him move his fingers to the trigger of his gun, and
+bring his gun to a "ready."  Again I lifted my gun, and threatened
+him with instant death, if he did not drop his gun.
+
+Asmani came on in a sidelong way with a smirking smile on his
+face, but in his eyes shone the lurid light of murder, as plainly
+as ever it shone in a villain's eyes.  Mabruki sneaked to my rear,
+deliberately putting powder in the pan of his musket, but sweeping
+the gun sharply round, I planted the muzzle of it at about two
+feet from his wicked-looking face, and ordered him to drop his gun
+instantly.  He let it fall from his hand quickly, and giving him a
+vigorous poke in the breast with my gun, which sent him reeling
+away a few feet from me, I faced round to Asmani, and ordered him
+to put his gun down, accompanying it with a nervous movement of my
+gun, pressing gently on the trigger at the same time.  Never was a
+man nearer his death than was Asmani during those few moments.  I
+was reluctant to shed his blood, and I was willing to try all
+possible means to avoid doing so; but if I did not succeed in
+cowing this ruffian, authority was at an end.  The truth was, they
+feared to proceed further on the road, and the only possible way
+of inducing them to move was by an overpowering force, and exercise
+of my power and will in this instance, even though he might pay the
+penalty of his disobedience with death.  As I was beginning to feel
+that Asmani had passed his last moment on earth, as he was lifting
+his gun to his shoulder, a form came up from behind him, and swept
+his gun aside with an impatient, nervous movement, and I heard
+Mabruki Burton say in horror-struck accents:
+
+"Man, how dare you point your gun, at the master?"  Mabruki then
+threw himself at my feet, and endeavoured to kiss them and
+entreated me not to punish him.  "It was all over now," he said;
+"there would be no more quarreling, they would all go as far as
+the Tanganika, without any more noise; and Inshallah!" said he,
+"we shall find the old Musungu * at Ujiji."
+
+*Livingstone
+
+"Speak, men, freedmen, shall we not?--shall we not go to the
+Tanganika without any more trouble? tell the master with one
+voice."
+
+"Ay Wallah!  Ay Wallah!  Bana yango!  Hamuna manneno mgini!"
+which literally translated means, "Yes by God!  Yes by God!
+my master!  There are no other words," said each man loudly.
+
+"Ask the master's pardon, man, or go thy way," said Mabruki
+peremptorily, to Asmani: which Asmani did, to the gratification
+of us all.
+
+It remained for me only to extend a general pardon to all except
+to Bombay and Ambari, the instigators of the mutiny, which was now
+happily quelled.  For Bombay could have by a word, as my captain,
+nipped all manifestation of bad temper at the outset, had he been
+so disposed.  But no, Bombay was more averse to marching
+than the cowardliest of his fellows, not because he was cowardly,
+but because he loved indolence.
+
+Again the word was given to march, and each man, with astonishing
+alacrity, seized his load, and filed off quickly out of sight.
+
+While on this subject, I may as well give here a sketch of each of
+the principal men whose names must often appear in the following
+chapters.  According to rank, they consist of Bombay, Mabruki
+Burton, Asmani the guide, Chowpereh, Ulimengo, Khamisi, Ambari,
+Jumah, Ferajji the cook, Maganga the Mnyamwezi, Selim the Arab boy,
+and youthful Kalulu a gunbearer.
+
+Bombay has received an excellent character from Burton and Speke.
+"Incarnation of honesty" Burton grandly terms him.  The truth is,
+Bombay was neither very honest nor very dishonest, i.e., he did
+not venture to steal much.  He sometimes contrived cunningly, as
+he distributed the meat, to hide a very large share for his own use.
+This peccadillo of his did not disturb me much; he deserved as
+captain a larger share than the others.  He required to be closely
+watched, and when aware that this was the case, he seldom ventured
+to appropriate more cloth than I would have freely given him,
+had he asked for it.  As a personal servant, or valet, he would
+have been unexceptionable, but as a captain or jemadar over his
+fellows, he was out of his proper sphere.  It was too much
+brain-work, and was too productive of anxiety to keep him in
+order.  At times he was helplessly imbecile in his movements,
+forgot every order the moment it was given him, consistently
+broke or lost some valuable article, was fond of argument, and
+addicted to bluster.  He thinks Hajji Abdullah one of the wickedest
+white men born, because he saw him pick up men's skulls and put
+them in sacks, as if he was about to prepare a horrible medicine
+with them.  He wanted to know whether his former master had written
+down all he himself did, and when told that Burton had not said
+anything, in his books upon the Lake Regions, upon collecting
+skulls at Kilwa, thought I would be doing a good work if I
+published this important fact.* Bombay intends to make a
+pilgrimage to visit Speke's grave some day.
+________________________
+*I find upon returning to England, that Capt. Burton has informed
+the world of this "wicked and abominable deed," in his book upon
+Zanzibar, and that the interesting collection may be seen at the
+Royal College of Surgeons, London.
+_________________________
+
+Mabruki, "Ras-bukra Mabruki," Bull-headed Mabruki, as Burton calls
+him, is a sadly abused man in my opinion.  Mabruki, though stupid,
+is faithful.  He is entirely out of his element as valet, he might
+as well be clerk.  As a watchman he is invaluable, as a second
+captain or fundi, whose duty it is to bring up stragglers,
+he is superexcellent.  He is ugly and vain, but he is no coward.
+
+Asmani the guide is a large fellow, standing over six feet, with
+the neck and shoulders of a Hercules.  Besides being guide, he is
+a fundi, sometimes called Fundi Asmani, or hunter.  A very
+superstitious man, who takes great care of his gun, and talismanic
+plaited cord, which he has dipped in the blood of all the animals
+he has ever shot.  He is afraid of lions, and will never venture
+out where lions are known to be.  All other animals he regards as
+game, and is indefatigable in their pursuit.  He is seldom seen
+without an apologetic or a treacherous smile on his face.  He could
+draw a knife across a man's throat and still smile.
+
+Chowpereh is a sturdy short man of thirty or thereabouts; very
+good-natured, and humorous.  When Chowpereh speaks in his dry Mark
+Twain style, the whole camp laughs.  I never quarrel with Chowpereh,
+never did quarrel with him.  A kind word given to Chowpereh is sure
+to be reciprocated with a good deed.  He is the strongest, the
+healthiest, the amiablest, the faithfulest of all.  He is the
+embodiment of a good follower.
+
+Khamisi is a neat, cleanly boy of twenty, or thereabouts, active,
+loud-voiced, a boaster, and the cowardliest of the cowardly.  He
+will steal at every opportunity.  He clings to his gun most
+affectionately; is always excessively anxious if a screw gets
+loose, or if a flint will not strike fire, yet I doubt that he
+would be able to fire his gun at an enemy from excessive
+trembling.  Khamisi would rather trust his safety to his feet,
+which are small, and well shaped.
+
+Ambari is a man of about forty.  He is one of the "Faithfuls"
+of Speke, and one of my Faithfuls.  He would not run away from
+me except when in the presence of an enemy, and imminent personal
+danger.  He is clever in his way, but is not sufficiently clever
+to enact the part of captain--could take charge of a small party,
+and give a very good account of them.  Is lazy, and an admirer of
+good living--abhors marching, unless he has nothing to carry but
+his gun.
+
+Jumah is the best abused man of the party, because he has
+old-womanish ways with him, yet in his old-womanish ways he is
+disposed to do the best he can for me, though he will not carry a
+pound in weight without groaning terribly at his hard fate.  To me
+he is sentimental and pathetic; to the unimportant members of the
+caravan he is stern and uncompromising.  But the truth is, that I
+could well dispense with Jumah's presence: he was one of the
+incorrigible inutiles, eating far more than he was worth; besides
+being an excessively grumbling and querulous fool.
+
+Ulimengo, a strong stalwart fellow of thirty, was the maddest and
+most hare-brained of my party.  Though an arrant coward, he was a
+consummate boaster.  But though a devotee of pleasure and fun, he
+was not averse from work.  With one hundred men such as he, I could
+travel through Africa provided there was no fighting to do.  It
+will be remembered that he was the martial coryphaeus who led my
+little army to war against Mirambo, chanting the battle-song of
+the Wangwana; and that I stated, that when the retreat was determined
+upon, he was the first of my party to reach the stronghold of Mfuto.
+He is a swift runner, and a fair hunter.  I have been indebted to
+him on several occasions for a welcome addition to my larder.
+
+Ferajji, a former dish-washer to Speke, was my cook.  He was
+promoted to this office upon the defection of Bunder Salaam, and
+the extreme non-fitness of Abdul Kader.  For cleaning dishes, the
+first corn-cob, green twig, a bunch of leaves or grass, answered
+Ferajji's purposes in the absence of a cloth.  If I ordered a
+plate, and I pointed out a black, greasy, sooty thumbmark to him,
+a rub of a finger Ferajji thought sufficient to remove all
+objections.  If I hinted that a spoon was rather dirty, Ferajji
+fancied that with a little saliva, and a rub of his loin cloth, the
+most fastidious ought to be satisfied.  Every pound of meat, and
+every three spoonfuls of musk or porridge I ate in Africa,
+contained at least ten grains of sand.  Ferajji was considerably
+exercised at a threat I made to him that on arrival at Zanzibar,
+I would get the great English doctor there to open my stomach,
+and count every grain of sand found in it, for each grain of which
+Ferajji should be charged one dollar.  The consciousness that my
+stomach must contain a large number, for which the forfeits would
+be heavy, made him feel very sad at times.  Otherwise, Ferajji was
+a good cook, most industrious, if not accomplished.  He could
+produce a cup of tea, and three or four hot pancakes, within ten
+minutes after a halt was ordered, for which I was most grateful,
+as I was almost always hungry after a long march.  Ferajji sided
+with Baraka against Bombay in Unyoro, and when Speke took Bombay's
+side of the question, Ferajji, out of love for Baraka, left Speke's
+service, and so forfeited his pay.
+
+Maganga was a Mnyamwezi, a native of Mkwenkwe, a strong, faithful
+servant, an excellent pagazi, with an irreproachable temper.  He
+it was who at all times, on the march, started the wildly exuberant
+song of the Wanyamwezi porters, which, no matter how hot the sun,
+or how long the march, was sure to produce gaiety and animation
+among the people.  At such times all hands sang, sang with voices
+that could be heard miles away, which made the great forests ring
+with the sounds, which startled every animal big or little, for
+miles around.  On approaching a village the temper of whose people
+might be hostile to us, Maganga would commence his song, with the
+entire party joining in the chorus, by which mode we knew whether
+the natives were disposed to be friendly or hostile.  If hostile,
+or timid, the gates would at once be closed, and dark faces would
+scowl at us from the interior; if friendly, they rushed outside of
+their gates to welcome us, or to exchange friendly remarks.
+
+An important member of the Expedition was Selim, the young Arab.
+Without some one who spoke good Arabic, I could not have obtained
+the friendship of the chief Arabs in Unyanyembe; neither could I
+have well communicated with them, for though I understood Arabic,
+I could not speak it.
+
+I have already related how Kalulu came to be in my service, and
+how he came to bear his present name.  I soon found how apt and
+quick he was to learn, in consequence of which, he was promoted
+to the rank of personal attendant.  Even Selim could not vie with
+Kalulu in promptness and celerity, or in guessing my wants at the
+table.  His little black eyes were constantly roving over the
+dishes, studying out the problem of what was further necessary,
+or had become unnecessary.
+
+We arrived at the Ziwani, in about 4 h. 30 m. from the time of
+our quitting the scene which had well-nigh witnessed a sanguinary
+conflict.  The Ziwani, or pool, contained no water, not a drop,
+until the parched tongues of my people warned them that they must
+proceed and excavate for water.  This excavation was performed (by
+means of strong hard sticks sharply pointed) in the dry hard-caked
+bottom.  After digging to a depth of six feet their labours were
+rewarded with the sight of a few drops of muddy liquid percolating
+through the sides, which were eagerly swallowed to relieve their
+raging thirst.  Some voluntarily started with buckets, gourds,
+and canteens south to a deserted clearing called the "Tongoni"
+in Ukamba, and in about three hours returned with a plentiful
+supply for immediate use, of good and clear water.
+
+In 1 h. 30 m. we arrived at this Tongoni, or deserted clearing of
+the Wakamba.  Here were three or four villages burnt, and an
+extensive clearing desolate, the work of the Wa-Ruga-Raga of Mirambo.
+Those of the inhabitants who were left, after the spoliation and
+complete destruction of the flourishing settlement, emigrated
+westerly to Ugara.  A large herd of buffalo now slake their thirst
+at the pool which supplied the villages of Ukamba with water.
+
+Great masses of iron haematite cropped up above the surfaces in
+these forests.  Wild fruit began to be abundant; the wood-apple
+and tamarind and a small plum-like fruit, furnished us with many
+an agreeable repast.
+
+The honey-bird is very frequent in these forests of Ukonongo.
+Its cry is a loud, quick chirrup.  The Wakonongo understand how
+to avail themselves of its guidance to the sweet treasure of honey
+which the wild bees have stored in the cleft of some great tree.
+Daily, the Wakonongo who had joined our caravan brought me immense
+cakes of honey-comb, containing delicious white and red honey.
+The red honey-comb generally contains large numbers of dead bees,
+but our exceedingly gluttonous people thought little of these.
+They not only ate the honey-bees, but they also ate a good deal of
+the wax.
+
+As soon as the honey-bird descries the traveller, he immediately
+utters a series of wild, excited cries, hops about from twig to
+twig, and from branch to branch, then hops to another tree,
+incessantly repeating his chirruping call.  The native, understanding
+the nature of the little bird, unhesitatingly follows him; but
+perhaps his steps are too slow for the impatient caller, upon which
+he flies back, urging him louder, more impatient cries, to hasten,
+and then darts swiftly forward, as if he would show how quickly he
+could go to the honey-store, until at last the treasure is reached,
+the native has applied fire to the bees' nest, and secured the honey,
+while the little bird preens himself, and chirrups in triumphant
+notes, as if he were informing the biped that without his aid he
+never could have found the honey.
+
+Buffalo gnats and tsetse were very troublesome on this march,
+owing to the numerous herds of game in the vicinity.
+
+On the 9th of October we made a long march in a southerly direction,
+and formed our camp in the centre of a splendid grove of trees.
+The water was very scarce on the road.  The Wamrima and Wanyamwezi
+are not long able to withstand thirst.  When water is plentiful
+they slake their thirst at every stream and pool; when it is scarce,
+as it is here and in the deserts of Marenga and Magunda Mkali,
+long afternoon-marches are made; the men previously, however, filling
+their gourds, so as to enable them to reach the water early next
+morning.  Selim was never able to endure thirst.  It mattered not
+how much of the precious liquid he carried, he generally drank it
+all before reaching camp, and he consequently suffered during the
+night.  Besides this, he endangered his life by quaffing from every
+muddy pool; and on this day he began to complain that he discharged
+blood, which I took to be an incipient stage of dysentery.
+
+During these marches, ever since quitting Ugunda, a favourite topic
+at the camp-fires were the Wa-Ruga-Ruga, and their atrocities, and
+a possible encounter that we might have with these bold rovers of
+the forest.  I verily believe that a sudden onset of half a dozen
+of Mirambo's people would have set the whole caravan arunning.
+
+We reached Marefu the next day, after a short three hours' march.
+We there found an embassy sent by the Arabs of Unyanyembe, to the
+Southern Watuta, bearing presents of several bales, in charge of
+Hassan the Mseguhha.  This valiant leader and diplomatist had halted
+here some ten days because of wars and rumours of wars in his front.
+It was said that Mbogo, Sultan of Mboga in Ukonongo, was at war
+with the brother of Manwa Sera, and as Mbogo was a large district
+of Ukonongo only two days' march from Marefu; fear of being involved
+in it was deterring old Hassan from proceeding.  He advised me also
+not to proceed, as it was impossible to be able to do so without
+being embroiled in the conflict.  I informed him that I intended
+to proceed on my way, and take my chances, and graciously offered
+him my escort as far as the frontier of Ufipa, from which he could
+easily and safely continue on his way to the Watuta, but he
+declined it.
+
+We had now been travelling fourteen days in a south-westerly
+direction, having made a little more than one degree of latitude.
+I had intended to have gone a little further south, because it was
+such a good road, also since by going further south we should have
+labored under no fear of meeting Mirambo; but the report of this
+war in our front, only two days off, compelled me, in the interest
+of the Expedition, to strike across towards the Tanganika, an a
+west-by-north course through the forest, travelling, when it was
+advantageous, along elephant tracks and local paths.  This new plan
+was adopted after consulting with Asmani, the guide.  We were now
+in Ukonongo, having entered this district when we crossed the Gombe
+creek.  The next day after arriving at Marefu we plunged westward,
+in view of the villagers, and the Arab ambassador, who kept
+repeating until the last moment that we should "certainly catch
+it."
+
+We marched eight hours through a forest, where the forest peach,
+or the "mbembu," is abundant.  The tree that bears this fruit is
+very like a pear-tree, and is very productive.  I saw one tree,
+upon which I estimated there were at least six or seven bushels.
+I ate numbers of the peaches on this day.  So long as this fruit
+can be produced, a traveller in these regions need not fear starvation.
+
+At the base of a graceful hilly cone we found a village called
+Utende, the inhabitants of which were in a state of great alarm,
+as we suddenly appeared on the ridge above them.  Diplomacy urged
+me to send forward a present of one doti to the Sultan, who, however,
+would not accept it, because he happened to be drunk with pombe,
+and was therefore disposed to be insolent.  Upon being informed
+that he would refuse any present, unless he received four more
+cloths, I immediately ordered a strong boma to be constructed on
+the summits of a little hill, near enough to a plentiful supply of
+water, and quietly again packed up the present in the bale.  I
+occupied a strategically chosen position, as I could have swept
+the face of the hill, and the entire space between its base and the
+village of Watende.  Watchmen were kept on the look-out all night;
+but we were fortunately not troubled until the morning; when a
+delegation of the principal men came to ask if I intended to depart
+without having made a present to the chief.  I replied to them that
+I did not intend passing through any country without making
+friends with the chief; and if their chief would accept a good
+cloth from me, I would freely give it to him.  Though they
+demurred at the amount of the present at first, the difference
+between us was finally ended by my adding a fundo of red beads--
+sami-sami--for the chief's wife.
+
+From the hill and ridge of Utende sloped a forest for miles and
+miles westerly, which was terminated by a grand and smooth-topped
+ridge rising 500 or 600 feet above the plain.
+
+A four hours' march, on the 12th of October, brought us to a
+nullah similar to the Gombe, which, during the wet season, flows
+to the Gombe River, and thence into the Malagarazi River.
+
+A little before camping we saw a herd of nimba, or pallah; I had
+the good fortune to shoot one, which was a welcome addition to our
+fast diminishing store of dried meats, prepared in our camp on the
+Gombe.  By the quantity of bois de vaches, we judged buffaloes
+were plentiful here, as well as elephant and rhinoceros.  The
+feathered species were well represented by ibis, fish-eagles,
+pelicans, storks, cranes, several snowy spoon-bills, and
+flamingoes.
+
+From the nullah, or mtoni, we proceeded to Mwaru, the principal
+village of the district of Mwaru, the chief of which is Ka-mirambo.
+Our march lay over desolated clearings once occupied by Ka-mirambo's
+people, but who were driven away by Mkasiwa some ten years ago,
+during his warfare against Manwa Sera.  Niongo, the brother of the
+latter, now waging war against Mbogo, had passed through Mwaru the
+day before we arrived, after being defeated by his enemy.
+
+The hilly ridge that bounded the westward horizon, visible from
+Utende, was surmounted on this day.  The western slope trends
+south-west, and is drained by the River Mrera, which empties into
+the Malagarazi River.  We perceived the influence of the Tanganika,
+even here, though we were yet twelve or fifteen marches from the
+lake.  The jungles increased in density, and the grasses became
+enormously tall; these points reminded us of the maritime districts
+of Ukwere and Ukami.
+
+We heard from a caravan at this place, just come from Ufipa, that a
+white man was reported to be in "Urua," whom I supposed to mean
+Livingstone.
+
+Upon leaving Mwaru we entered the district of Mrera, a chief who
+once possessed great power and influence over this region.  Wars,
+however, have limited his possessions to three or four villages
+snugly embosomed within a jungle, whose outer rim is so dense that
+it serves like a stone wall to repel invaders.  There were nine
+bleached skulls, stuck on the top of as many poles, before the
+principal gate of entrance, which told us of existing feuds between
+the Wakonongo and the Wazavira.  This latter tribe dwelt in a
+country a few marches west of us; whose territory we should have
+to avoid, unless we sought another opportunity to distinguish
+ourselves in battle with the natives.  The Wazavira, we were told
+by the Wakonongo of Mrera, were enemies to all Wangwana.
+
+In a narrow strip of marsh between Mwaru and Mrera, we saw a small
+herd of wild elephants.  It was the first time I had ever seen
+these animals in their native wildness, and my first impressions
+of them I shall not readily forget.  I am induced to think that
+the elephant deserves the title of "king of beasts."  His huge form,
+the lordly way in which he stares at an intruder on his domain,
+and his whole appearance indicative of conscious might, afford
+good grounds for his claim to that title.  This herd, as we passed
+it at the distance of a mile, stopped to survey the caravan as it
+passed: and, after having satisfied their curiosity, the elephants
+trooped into the forest which bounded the marshy plain southward,
+as if caravans were every-day things to them, whilst they--the free
+and unconquerable lords of the forest and the marsh--had nothing
+in common with the cowardly bipeds, who never found courage to face
+them in fair combat.  The destruction which a herd makes in a forest
+is simply tremendous.  When the trees are young whole swathes may
+be found uprooted and prostrate, which mark the track of the
+elephants as they "trampled their path through wood and brake."
+
+The boy Selim was so ill at this place that I was compelled to
+halt the caravan for him for two days.  He seemed to be affected
+with a disease in the limbs, which caused him to sprawl, and
+tremble most painfully, besides suffering from an attack of acute
+dysentery.  But constant attendance and care soon brought him round
+again; and on the third day he was able to endure the fatigue of
+riding.
+
+I was able to shoot several animals during our stay at Mrera.  The
+forest outside of the cultivation teems with noble animals.  Zebra,
+giraffe, elephant, and rhinoceros are most common; ptarmigan and
+guinea-fowl were also plentiful.
+
+The warriors of Mrera are almost all armed with muskets, of which
+they take great care.  They were very importunate in their demands
+for flints, bullets, and powder, which I always made it a point to
+refuse, lest at any moment a fracas occurring they might use the
+ammunition thus supplied to my own disadvantage.  The men of this
+village were an idle set, doing little but hunting, gaping,
+gossiping, and playing like great boys.  During the interval of
+my stay at Mrera I employed a large portion of my time in mending
+my shoes, and patching up the great rents in my clothes, which
+the thorn species, during the late marches, had almost destroyed.
+Westward, beyond Mrera, was a wilderness, the transit of which we
+were warned would occupy nine days hence arose the necessity to
+purchase a large supply of grain, which, ere attempting the great
+uninhabited void in our front, was to be ground and sifted.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XI.  THROUGH UKAWENDI, UVINZA, AND UHHA, TO UJIJI.
+
+Happy auspices,--Ant-hills.--The water-shed of the Tanganika Lion.
+--The king of Kasera.--The home of the lion and the leopard.--
+A donkey frightens a leopard--Sublime scenes in Kawendi,--Starvation
+imminent.--Amenities of travel in Africa.--Black-mailers.--The
+stormy children of Uhha.--News of a white man.--Energetic
+marches--Mionvu, chief of tribute-takers.--An escape at
+midnight.--Toiling through the jungles.--The Lake Mountains.--
+First view of the Tanganika.--Arrival at Ujiji,--The happy meeting
+with Livingstone.
+
+
+We bade farewell to Mrera on the 17th of October, to continue our
+route north-westward.  All the men and I were firm friends now;
+all squabbling had long ceased.  Bombay and I had forgotten our
+quarrel; the kirangozi and myself were ready to embrace, so loving
+and affectionate were the terms upon which we stood towards one
+another.  Confidence returned to all hearts--for now, as Mabruk
+Unyanyembe said, "we could smell the fish of the Tanganika."
+Unyanyembe, with all its disquietude, was far behind.  We could
+snap our fingers at that terrible Mirambo and his unscrupulous
+followers, and by-and-by, perhaps, we may be able to laugh at
+the timid seer who always prophesied portentous events--Sheikh,
+the son of Nasib.  We laughed joyously, as we glided in Indian
+file through the young forest jungle beyond the clearing of Mrera,
+and boasted of our prowess.  Oh! we were truly brave that morning!
+
+Emerging from the jungle, we entered a thin forest, where numerous
+ant-hills were seen like so many sand-dunes.  I imagine that these
+ant-hills were formed during a remarkably wet season, when,
+possibly, the forest-clad plain was inundated.  I have seen the
+ants at work by thousands, engaged in the work of erecting their
+hills in other districts suffering from inundation.  What a
+wonderful system of cells these tiny insects construct!  A perfect
+labyrinth--cell within cell, room within room, hall within hall--an
+exhibition of engineering talents and high architectural capacity--a
+model city, cunningly contrived for safety and comfort!
+
+Emerging after a short hour's march out of the forest, we welcome
+the sight of a murmuring translucent stream, swiftly flowing
+towards the north-west, which we regard with the pleasure which
+only men who have for a long time sickened themselves with that
+potable liquid of the foulest kind, found in salinas, mbugas,
+pools, and puddle holes, can realize.  Beyond this stream rises a
+rugged and steep ridge, from the summit of which our eyes are
+gladdened with scenes that are romantic, animated and picturesque.
+They form an unusual feast to eyes sated with looking into the
+depths of forests, at towering stems of trees, and at tufted crowns
+of foliage.  We have now before us scores of cones, dotting the
+surface of a plain which extends across Southern Ukonongo to the
+territory of the Wafipa, and which reaches as far as the Rikwa Plain.
+The immense prospect before which we are suddenly ushered is most
+varied; exclusive of conical hills and ambitious flat-topped and
+isolated mountains, we are in view of the watersheds of the Rungwa
+River, which empties into the Tanganika south of where we stand,
+and of the Malagarazi River, which the Tanganika receives, a
+degree or so north of this position.  A single but lengthy
+latitudinal ridge serves as a dividing line to the watershed of the
+Rungwa and Malagarazi; and a score of miles or so further west of
+this ridge rises another, which runs north and south.
+
+We camped on this day in the jungle, close to a narrow ravine with
+a marshy bottom, through the oozy, miry contents of which the
+waters from the watershed of the Rungwa slowly trickled southward
+towards the Rikwa Plain.  This was only one of many ravines,
+however, some of which were several hundred yards broad, others
+were but a few yards in width, the bottoms of which were most
+dangerous quagmires, overgrown with dense tall reeds and papyrus.
+Over the surface of these great depths of mud were seen hundreds
+of thin threads of slimy ochre-coloured water, which swarmed with
+animalculae.  By-and-by, a few miles south of the base of this
+ridge (which I call Kasera, from the country which it cuts in
+halves), these several ravines converge and debouch into the broad,
+[marshy?], oozy, spongy  "river" of Usense, which trends in a
+south-easterly direction; after which, gathering the contents of
+the watercourses from the north and northeast into its own broader
+channel, it soon becomes a stream of some breadth and consequence,
+and meets a river flowing from the east, from the direction of
+Urori, with which it conflows in the Rikwa Plain, and empties about
+sixty rectilineal miles further west into the Tanganika Lake.  The
+Rungwa River, I am informed, is considered as a boundary line
+between the country of Usowa on the north, and Ufipa on the south.
+
+We had barely completed the construction of our camp defences when
+some of the men were heard challenging a small party of natives
+which advanced towards our camp, headed by a man who, from his
+garb and head-dress, we knew was from Zanzibar.  After interchanging
+the customary salutations, I was informed that this party was an
+embassy from Simba ("Lion"), who ruled over Kasera, in Southern
+Unyamwezi.  Simba, I was told, was the son of Mkasiwa, King of
+Unyanyembe, and was carrying on war with the Wazavira, of whom I was
+warned to beware.  He had heard such reports of my greatness that he
+was sorry I did not take his road to Ukawendi, that he might have
+had the opportunity of seeing me, and making friends with me; but
+in the absence of a personal visit Simba had sent this embassy to
+overtake me, in the hope that I would present him with a token of
+my friendship in the shape of cloth.  Though I was rather taken
+aback by the demand, still it was politic in me to make this powerful
+chief my friend, lest on my return from the search after Livingstone
+he and I might fall out.  And since it was incumbent on me to make
+a present, for the sake of peace, it was necessary to exhibit my
+desire for peace by giving--if I gave at all--a royal present.
+The ambassador conveyed from me to Simba, or the "Lion" of Kasera,
+two gorgeous cloths, and two other doti consisting of Merikani
+and Kaniki; and, if I might believe the ambassador, I had made
+Simba a friend for ever.
+
+On the 18th of October, breaking camp at the usual hour, we
+continued our march north-westward by a road which zig-zagged
+along the base of the Kasera mountains, and which took us into
+all kinds of difficulties.  We traversed at least a dozen marshy
+ravines, the depth of mire and water in which caused the utmost
+anxiety.  I sunk up to my neck in deep holes in the Stygian ooze
+caused by elephants, and had to tramp through the oozy beds of
+the Rungwa sources with any clothes wet and black with mud and slime.
+Decency forbade that I should strip; and the hot sun would also
+blister my body.  Moreover, these morasses were too frequent to lose
+time in undressing and dressing, and, as each man was weighted with
+his own proper load, it would have been cruel to compel the men to
+bear me across.  Nothing remained, therefore, but to march on, all
+encumbered as I was with my clothing and accoutrements, into these
+several marshy watercourses, with all the philosophical stoicism
+that my nature could muster for such emergencies.  But it was very
+uncomfortable, to say the least of it.
+
+We soon entered the territory of the dreaded Wazavira, but no
+enemy was in sight.  Simba, in his wars, had made clean work of
+the northern part of Uzavira, and we encountered nothing worse than
+a view of the desolated country, which must have been once--judging
+from the number of burnt huts and debris of ruined villages--extremely
+populous.  A young jungle was sprouting up vigorously in their
+fields, and was rapidly becoming the home of wild denizens of the
+forest.  In one of the deserted and ruined villages, I found
+quarters for the Expedition, which were by no means uncomfortable.
+I shot three brace of guinea-fowl in the neighbourhood of Misonghi,
+the deserted village we occupied, and Ulimengo, one of my hunters,
+bagged an antelope, called the "mbawala," for whose meat some of
+the Wanyamwezi have a superstitious aversion.  I take this species
+of antelope, which stands about three and a half feet high, of a
+reddish hide, head long, horns short, to be the "Nzoe" antelope
+discovered by Speke in Uganda, and whose Latin designation is,
+according to Dr. Sclater, Tragelaphus Spekii."  It has a short
+bushy tail, and long hair along the spine.
+
+A long march in a west-by-north direction, lasting six hours,
+through a forest where the sable antelope was seen, and which was
+otherwise prolific with game, brought us to a stream which ran by
+the base of a lofty conical hill, on whose slopes flourished quite
+a forest of feathery bamboo.
+
+On the 20th, leaving our camp, which lay between the stream and
+the conical hill above mentioned, and surmounting a low ridge which
+sloped from the base of the hill-cone, we were greeted with another
+picturesque view, of cones and scarped mountains, which heaved
+upward in all directions.  A march of nearly five hours through
+this picturesque country brought us to the Mpokwa River, one of
+the tributaries of the Rungwa, and to a village lately deserted
+by the Wazavira.  The huts were almost all intact, precisely as
+they were left by their former inhabitants.  In the gardens were
+yet found vegetables, which, after living so long on meat, were
+most grateful to us.  On the branches of trees still rested the
+Lares and Penates of the Wazavira, in the shape of large and
+exceedingly well-made earthen pots.
+
+In the neighbouring river one of my men succeeded, in few minutes,
+in catching sixty fish of the silurus species the hand alone.  A
+number of birds hovered about stream , such as the white-headed
+fish-eagle and the kingfisher, enormous, snowy spoonbills, ibis,
+martins, &c.  This river issued from a mountain clump eight miles
+or so north of the village of Mpokwa, and comes flowing down a narrow
+thread of water, sinuously winding amongst tall reeds and dense
+brakes on either side-the home of hundreds of antelopes and buffaloes.
+South of Mpokwa, the valley broadens, and the mountains deflect
+eastward and westward, and beyond this point commences the plain
+known as the Rikwa, which, during the Masika is inundated, but which,
+in the dry season, presents the same bleached aspect that plains in
+Africa generally do when the grass has ripened.
+
+Travelling up along the right bank of the Mpokwa, on the 21st we
+came to the head of the stream, and the sources of the Mpokwa,
+issuing out of deep defiles enclosed by lofty ranges.  The
+mbawala and the buffalo were plentiful.
+
+On the 22nd, after a march of four hours and a half, we came to the
+beautiful stream of Mtambu--the water of which was sweet, and clear
+as crystal, and flowed northward.  We saw for the first time the
+home of the lion and the leopard.  Hear what Freiligrath says of
+the place:
+
+Where the thorny brake and thicket
+  Densely fill the interspace
+Of the trees, through whose thick branches
+  Never sunshine lights the place,
+There the lion dwells, a monarch,
+  Mightiest among the brutes;
+There his right to reign supremest
+  Never one his claim disputes.
+There he layeth down to slumber,
+  Having slain and ta'en his fill;
+There he roameth, there be croucheth,
+  As it suits his lordly will.
+
+We camped but a few yards from just such a place as the poet
+describes.  The herd-keeper who attended the goats and donkeys,
+soon after our arrival in camp, drove the animals to water, and
+in order to obtain it they travelled through a tunnel in the brake,
+caused by elephants and rhinoceros.  They had barely entered the
+dark cavernous passage, when a black-spotted leopard sprang, and
+fastened its fangs in the neck of one of the donkeys, causing it,
+from the pain, to bray hideously.  Its companions set up such a
+frightful chorus, and so lashed their heels in the air at the
+feline marauder, that the leopard bounded away through the brake,
+as if in sheer dismay at the noisy cries which the attack had
+provoked.  The donkey's neck exhibited some frightful wounds, but
+the animal was not dangerously hurt.
+
+Thinking that possibly I might meet with an adventure with a
+lion or a leopard in that dark belt of tall trees, under whose
+impenetrable shade grew the dense thicket that formed such
+admirable coverts for the carnivorous species, I took a stroll
+along the awesome place with the gunbearer, Kalulu, carrying an
+extra gun, and a further supply of ammunition.  We crept
+cautiously along, looking keenly into the deep dark dens, the
+entrances of which were revealed to us, as we journeyed, expectant
+every moment to behold the reputed monarch of the brake and
+thicket, bound forward to meet us, and I took a special delight
+in picturing, in my imagination, the splendor and majesty of the
+wrathful brute, as he might stand before me.  I peered closely
+into every dark opening, hoping to see the deadly glitter of the
+great angry eyes, and the glowering menacing front of the lion as
+he would regard me.  But, alas! after an hour's search for adventure,
+I had encountered nothing, and I accordingly waxed courageous, and
+crept into one of these leafy, thorny caverns, and found myself
+shortly standing under a canopy of foliage that was held above my
+head fully a hundred feet by the shapely and towering stems of the
+royal mvule.  Who can imagine the position?  A smooth lawn-like glade;
+a dense and awful growth of impenetrable jungle around us; those
+stately natural pillars--a glorious phalanx of royal trees, bearing
+at such sublime heights vivid green masses of foliage, through which
+no single sun-ray penetrated, while at our feet babbled the primeval
+brook, over smooth pebbles, in soft tones befitting the sacred quiet
+of the scene!  Who could have desecrated this solemn, holy harmony of
+nature?  But just as I was thinking it impossible that any man could
+be tempted to disturb the serene solitude of the place, I saw a
+monkey perched high on a branch over my head, contemplating, with
+something of an awe-struck look, the strange intruders beneath.
+Well, I could not help it, I laughed--laughed loud and long, until
+I was hushed by the chaos of cries and strange noises which seemed
+to respond to my laughing.  A troop of monkeys, hidden in the
+leafy depths above, had been rudely awakened, and, startled by
+the noise I made, were hurrying away from the scene with a dreadful
+clamor of cries and shrieks.
+
+Emerging again into the broad sunlight, I strolled further in
+search of something to shoot.  Presently, I saw, feeding quietly
+in the forest which bounded the valley of the Mtambu on the left,
+a huge, reddish-coloured wild boar, armed with most horrid tusks.
+Leaving Kalulu crouched down behind a tree, and my solar helmet
+behind another close by--that I might more safely stalk the
+animal--I advanced towards him some forty yards, and after taking
+a deliberate aim, fired at his fore shoulder.  As if nothing had hurt
+him whatever, the animal made a furious bound, and then stood with
+his bristles erected, and tufted tail, curved over the back--a most
+formidable brute in appearance.  While he was thus listening, and
+searching the neighbourhood with his keen, small eyes, I planted
+another shot in his chest, which ploughed its way through his body.
+Instead of falling, however, as I expected he would, he charged
+furiously in the direction the bullet had come, and as he rushed
+past me, another ball was fired, which went right through him; but
+still he kept on, until, within six or seven yards from the trees
+behind which Kalulu was crouching down on one side, and the helmet
+was resting behind another, he suddenly halted, and then dropped.
+But as I was about to advance on him with my knife to cut his throat,
+he suddenly started up; his eyes had caught sight of the little boy
+Kalulu, and were then, almost immediately afterwards, attracted by
+the sight of the snowy helmet.  These strange objects on either side
+of him proved too much for the boar, for, with a terrific grunt,
+he darted on one side into a thick brake, from which it was
+impossible to oust him, and as it was now getting late, and the camp
+was about three miles away, I was reluctantly obliged to return
+without the meat.
+
+On our way to camp we were accompanied by a large animal which
+persistently followed us on our left.  It was too dark to see
+plainly, but a large form was visible, if not very clearly
+defined.  It must have been a lion, unless it was the ghost of
+the dead boar.
+
+That night, about 11 P.M., we were startled by the roar of a lion,
+in close proximity to the camp.  Soon it was joined by another,
+and another still, and the novelty of the thing kept me awake.
+I peered through the gate of the camp, and endeavoured to sight
+a rifle--my little Winchester, in the accuracy of which I had
+perfect confidence; but, alas! for the cartridges, they might have
+been as well filled with sawdust for all the benefit I derived from
+them.  Disgusted with the miserable ammunition, I left the lions
+alone, and turned in, with their roaring as a lullaby.
+
+That terrestrial paradise for the hunter, the valley of the pellucid
+Mtambu, was deserted by us the next morning for the settlement
+commonly known to the Wakawendi as Imrera's, with as much unconcern
+as though it were a howling desert.  The village near which we
+encamped was called Itaga, in the district of Rusawa.  As soon as
+we had crossed the River Mtambu we had entered Ukawendi, commonly
+called "Kawendi" by the natives of the country.
+
+The district of Rusawa is thickly populated.  The people are quiet
+and well-disposed to strangers, though few ever come to this region
+from afar.  One or two Wasawahili traders visit it every year or so
+from Pumburu and Usowa; but very little ivory being obtained
+from the people, the long distance between the settlements serves
+to deter the regular trader from venturing hither.
+
+If caravans arrive here, the objective point to them is the
+district of Pumburu, situated south-westerly one day's good
+marching, or, say, thirty statute miles from Imrera; or they
+make for Usowa, on the Tanganika, via Pumburu, Katuma, Uyombeh,
+and Ugarawah.  Usowa is quite an important district on the Tanganika,
+populous and flourishing.  This was the road we had intended to
+adopt after leaving Imrera, but the reports received at the latter
+place forbade such a venture.  For Mapunda, the Sultan of Usowa,
+though a great friend to Arab traders, was at war with the colony
+of the Wazavira, who we must remember were driven from Mpokwa
+and vicinity in Utanda, and who were said to have settled between
+Pumburu and Usowa.
+
+It remained for us, like wise, prudent men, having charge of a
+large and valuable Expedition on our hands, to decide what to do,
+and what route to adopt, now that we had approached much nearer to
+Ujiji than we were to Unyanyembe.  I suggested that we should make
+direct for the Tanganika by compass, trusting to no road or guide,
+but to march direct west until we came to the Tanganika, and then
+follow the lake shore on foot until we came to Ujiji.  For it ever
+haunted my mind, that, if Dr. Livingstone should hear of my coming,
+which he might possibly do if I travelled along any known road, he
+would leave, and that my search for him would consequently be a
+"stern chase."  But my principal men thought it better that we should
+now boldly turn our faces north, and march for the Malagarazi, which
+was said to be a large river flowing from the east to the Tanganika.
+But none of my men knew the road to the Malagarazi, neither could
+guides be hired from Sultan Imrera.  We were, however, informed that
+the Malagarazi was but two days' march from Imrera.  I thought it
+safe, in such a case, to provision my men with three days' rations.
+The village of Itaga is situated in a deep mountain hollow, finely
+overlooking a large extent of cultivation.  The people grow sweet
+potatoes, manioc--out of which tapioca is made--beans, and the
+holcus.  Not one chicken could be purchased for love or money,
+and, besides grain, only a lean, scraggy specimen of a goat, a
+long time ago imported form Uvinza, was procurable.
+
+October the 25th will be remembered by me as a day of great troubles;
+in fact, a series of troubles began from this date.  We struck an
+easterly road in order to obtain a passage to the lofty plateau which
+bounded the valley of Imrera on the west and on the north.  We camped,
+after a two and a half hours' march, at its foot.  The defile promised
+a feasible means of ascent to the summit of the plateau, which rose
+upward in a series of scarps a thousand feet above the valley of
+Imrera.
+
+While ascending that lofty arc of mountains which bounded westerly
+and northerly the basin of Imrera, extensive prospects southward and
+eastward were revealed.  The character of the scenery at Ukawendi is
+always animated and picturesque, but never sublime.  The folds of this
+ridge contained  several ruins of bomas, which seemed to have been
+erected during war time.
+
+The mbemba fruit was plentiful along this march, and every few minutes
+I could see from the rear one or two men hastening to secure a treasure
+of it which they discovered on the ground.
+
+A little before reaching the camp I had a shot at a leopard, but
+failed to bring him down as he bounded away.  At night the lions
+roared as at the Mtambu River.
+
+A lengthy march under the deep twilight shadows of a great forest,
+which protected us from the hot sunbeams, brought us, on the next
+day, to a camp newly constructed by a party of Arabs from Ujiji, who
+had advanced thus far on their road to Unyanyembe, but, alarmed at
+the  reports of the war between Mirambo and the Arabs, had
+returned.  Our route was along the right bank of the Rugufu, a
+broad sluggish stream, well choked with the matete reeds and the
+papyrus.  The tracks and the bois de vaches of buffaloes were
+numerous, and there were several indications of rhinoceros being
+near.  In a deep clump of timber near this river we discovered a
+colony of bearded and leonine-looking monkeys.
+
+As we were about leaving our camp on the morning of the 28th a herd
+of buffalo walked deliberately into view.  Silence was quickly
+restored, but not before the animals, to their great surprise, had
+discovered the danger which confronted them.  We commenced stalking
+them, but we soon heard the thundering sound of their gallop,
+after which it becomes a useless task to follow them, with a long
+march in a wilderness before one.
+
+The road led on this day over immense sheets of sandstone and iron
+ore.  The water was abominable, and scarce, and famine began to
+stare us in the face.  We travelled for six hours, and had yet seen
+no sign of cultivation anywhere.  According to my map we were yet
+two long marches from the Malagarazi--if Captain Burton had correctly
+laid down the position of the river; according to the natives'
+account, we should have arrived at the Malagarazi on this day.
+
+On the 29th we left our camp, and after a few minutes, we were in
+view of the sublimest, but ruggedest, scenes we had yet beheld in
+Africa.  The country was cut up in all directions by deep, wild,
+and narrow ravines trending in all directions, but generally
+toward the north-west, while on either side rose enormous square
+masses of naked rock (sandstone), sometimes towering, and rounded,
+sometimes pyramidal, sometimes in truncated cones, sometimes in
+circular ridges, with sharp, rugged, naked backs, with but little
+vegetation anywhere visible, except it obtained a precarious tenure
+in the fissured crown of some gigantic hill-top, whither some soil
+had fallen, or at the base of the reddish ochre scarps which
+everywhere lifted their fronts to our view.
+
+A long series of descents down rocky gullies, wherein we were
+environed by threatening masses of disintegrated rock, brought us
+to a dry, stony ravine, with mountain heights looming above us a
+thousand feet high.  This ravine we followed, winding around in all
+directions, but which gradually widened, however, into a broad
+plain, with a western trend.  The road, leaving this, struck across
+a low ridge to the north; and we were in view of deserted
+settlements where the villages were built on frowning castellated
+masses of rock.  Near an upright mass of rock over seventy feet
+high, and about fifty yards in diameter, which dwarfed the gigantic
+sycamore close to it, we made our camp, after five hours and thirty
+minutes' continuous and rapid marching.
+
+The people were very hungry; they had eaten every scrap of meat,
+and every grain they possessed, twenty hours before, and there was
+no immediate prospect of food.  I had but a pound and a half of flour
+left, and this would not have sufficed to begin to feed a force of
+over forty-five people; but I had something like thirty pounds of
+tea, and twenty pounds of sugar left, and I at once, as soon as we
+arrived at camp, ordered every kettle to be filled and placed on
+the fire, and then made tea for all; giving each man a quart of a
+hot, grateful beverage; well sweetened.  Parties stole out also
+into the depths: of the jungle to search for wild fruit, and soon
+returned laden with baskets of the wood-peach and tamarind fruit,
+which though it did not satisfy, relieved them.  That night, before
+going to sleep, the Wangwana set up a loud prayer to "Allah" to
+give them food.
+
+We rose betimes in the morning, determined to travel on until food
+could be procured, or we dropped down from sheer fatigue and
+weakness.  Rhinoceros' tracks abounded, and buffalo seemed to be
+plentiful, but we never beheld a living thing.  We crossed scores
+of short steeps, and descended as often into the depths of dry,
+stony gullies, and then finally entered a valley, bounded on one
+side by a triangular mountain with perpendicular sides, and on the
+other by a bold group, a triplet of hills.  While marching down
+this valley--which soon changed its dry, bleached aspect to a vivid
+green--we saw a forest in the distance, and shortly found ourselves
+in corn-fields.  Looking keenly around for a village, we descried
+it on the summit of the lofty triangular hill on our right.  A loud
+exultant shout was raised at the discovery.  The men threw down their
+packs, and began to clamour for food.  Volunteers were asked to
+come forward to take cloth, and scale the heights to obtain it from
+the village, at any price.  While three or four sallied off we rested
+on the ground, quite worn out.  In about an hour the foraging party
+returned with the glorious tidings that food was plentiful; that the
+village we saw was called, "Welled Nzogera's"--the son of Nzogera--by
+which, of course, we knew that we were in Uvinza, Nzogera being the
+principal chief in Uvinza.  We were further informed that Nzogera,
+the father, was at war with Lokanda-Mire, about some salt-pans in
+the valley of the Malagarazi, and that it would be difficult to go
+to Ujiji by the usual road, owing to this war; but, for a
+consideration, the son of Nzogera was willing to supply us with
+guides, who would take us safely, by a northern road, to Ujiji.
+
+Everything auguring well for our prospects, we encamped to enjoy
+the good cheer, for which our troubles and privations, during the
+transit of the Ukawendi forests and jungles, had well prepared us.
+
+I am now going to extract from my Diary of the march, as, without
+its aid, I deem it impossible to relate fully our various
+experiences, so as to show them properly as they occurred to us;
+and as these extracts were written and recorded at the close of
+each day, they possess more interest, in my opinion, than a cold
+relation of facts, now toned down in memory.
+
+October 31st. Tuesday.--Our road led E.N.E. for a considerable
+time after leaving the base of the triangular mountain whereon the
+son of Nzogera has established his stronghold, in order to avoid a
+deep and impassable portion of marsh, that stood between us and the
+direct route to the Malagarazi River.  The valley sloped rapidly
+to this marsh, which received in its broad bosom the drainage of
+three extensive ranges.  Soon we turned our faces northwest, and
+prepared to cross the marsh; and the guides informed us, as we
+halted on its eastern bank, of a terrible catastrophe which
+occurred a few yards above where we were preparing to cross.
+They told of an Arab and his caravan, consisting of thirty-five
+slaves, who had suddenly sunk out of sight, and who were never
+more heard of.  This marsh, as it appeared to us, presented a
+breadth of some hundreds of yards, on which grew a close network
+of grass, with much decayed matter mixed up with it.  In the
+centre of this, and underneath it, ran a broad, deep, and rapid
+stream.  As the guides proceeded across, the men stole after
+them with cautious footsteps.  As they arrived near the centre
+we began to see this unstable grassy bridge, so curiously provided
+by nature for us, move up and down in heavy languid undulations,
+like the swell of the sea after a storm.  Where the two asses of
+the Expedition moved, the grassy waves rose a foot high; but suddenly
+one unfortunate animal plunged his feet through, and as he was
+unable to rise, he soon made a deep hollow, which was rapidly filling
+with water.  With the aid of ten men, however, we were enabled to
+lift him bodily up and land him on a firmer part, and guiding them
+both across rapidly, the entire caravan crossed without accident.
+
+On arriving at the other side, we struck off to the north, and
+found ourselves in a delightful country, in every way suitable
+for agriculturists.  Great rocks rose here and there, but in their
+fissures rose stately trees, under whose umbrage nestled the
+villages of the people.  We found the various village elders greedy
+for cloth, but the presence of the younger son of Nzogera's men
+restrained their propensity for extortion.  Goats and sheep were
+remarkably cheap, and in good condition; and, consequently, to
+celebrate our arrival near the Malagarazi, a flock of eight goats
+was slaughtered, and distributed to the men.
+
+November 1st.--Striking north-west, after leaving our camp, and
+descending the slope of a mountain, we soon beheld the anxiously
+looked-for Malagarazi, a narrow but deep stream, flowing through
+a valley pent in by lofty mountains.  Fish-eating birds lined the
+trees on its banks; villages were thickly scattered about.  Food
+was abundant and cheap.
+
+After travelling along the left bank of the river a few miles, we
+arrived at the settlements recognizing Kiala as their ruler.  I had
+anticipated we should be able at once to cross the river, but
+difficulties arose.  We were told to camp, before any negotiations
+could be entered into.  When we demurred, we were informed we might
+cross the river if we wished, but we should not be assisted by any
+Mvinza.
+
+Being compelled to halt for this day, the tent was pitched in the
+middle of one of the villages, and the bales were stored in one of
+the huts, with four soldiers to guard them.  After despatching an
+embassy to Kiala, eldest son of the great chief Nzogera, to
+request permission to cross the river as a peaceable caravan, Kiala
+sent word that the white man should cross his river after the
+payment of fifty-six cloths!  Fifty-six cloths signified a bale
+nearly!
+
+Here was another opportunity for diplomacy.  Bombay and Asmani
+were empowered to treat with Kiala about the honga, but it was not
+to exceed twenty-five doti.  At 6 A.M., having spoken for seven
+hours, the two men returned, with the demand for thirteen doti for
+Nzogera, and ten doti for Kiala.  Poor Bombay was hoarse, but
+Asmani still smiled; and I relented, congratulating myself that
+the preposterous demand, which was simply robbery, was no worse.
+
+Three hours later another demand was made.  Kiala had been visited
+by a couple of chiefs from his father; and the chiefs being told
+that a white man was at the ferry, put in a claim for a couple of
+guns and a keg of gunpowder.  But here my patience was exhausted,
+and I declared that they should have to take them by force, for I
+would never consent to be robbed and despoiled after any such
+fashion.
+
+Until 11 P.M., Bombay and Asmani were negotiating about this extra
+demand, arguing, quarreling, threatening, until Bombay declared
+they would talk him mad if it lasted much longer.  I told Bombay
+to take two cloths, one for each chief, and, if they did not
+consider it enough, then I should fight.  The present was taken,
+and the negotiations were terminated at midnight.
+
+November 2nd.--Ihata Island, one and a half hour west of Kiala's.
+We arrived before the Island of Ihata, on the left bank of the
+Malagarazi, at 5 p.m.; the morning having been wasted in puerile
+talk with the owner of the canoes at the ferry.  The final demand
+for ferriage across was eight yards of cloth and four fundo* of
+sami-sami, or red beads; which was at once paid.  Four men, with
+their loads, were permitted to cross in the small, unshapely, and
+cranky canoes.  When the boatmen had discharged their canoes of
+their passengers and cargoes, they were ordered to halt on the
+other side, and, to my astonishment, another demand was made.  The
+ferrymen had found that two fundo of these were of short measure,
+and two fundo more must be paid, otherwise the contract for
+ferrying us across would be considered null and void.  So two fundo
+more were added, but not without demur and much "talk," which in
+these lands is necessary.
+
+** 4 fundo == 40 necklaces; 1 fundo being 10 necklaces.
+
+Three times the canoes went backwards and forwards, when, lo!
+another demand was made, with the usual clamour and fierce wordy
+dispute; this time for five khete # for the man who guided us to
+the ferry, a shukka of cloth for a babbler, who had attached
+himself to the old-womanish Jumah, who did nothing but babble and
+increase the clamor.  These demands were also settled.
+
+# Necklaces.
+
+About sunset we endeavoured to cross the donkeys.  "Simba," a fine
+wild Kinyamwezi donkey, went in first, with a rope attached to his
+neck.  He had arrived at the middle of the stream when we saw
+him begin to struggle--a crocodile had seized him by the throat.
+The poor animal's struggles were terrific.  Chowpereh was dragging
+on the rope with all his might, but to no use, for the donkey sank,
+and we saw no more of him.  The depth of the river at this place was
+about fifteen feet.  We had seen the light-brown heads, the glittering
+eyes, and the ridgy backs, hovering about the vicinity, but we had
+never thought that the reptiles would advance so near such an exciting
+scene as the vicinity of the ferry presented during the crossing.
+Saddened a little by this loss, we resumed our work, and by 7 P.M.
+we were all across, excepting Bombay and the only donkey now left,
+which was to be brought across in the morning, when the crocodiles
+should have deserted the river.
+
+November 3rd.--What contention have we not been a witness to these
+last three days!  What anxiety have we not suffered ever since our
+arrival in Uvinza!  The Wavinza are worse than the Wagogo, and their
+greed is more insatiable.  We got the donkey across with the aid of
+a mganga, or medicine man, who spat some chewed leaves of a tree
+which grows close to the stream over him.  He informed me he could
+cross the river at any time, day or night, after rubbing his body
+with these chewed leaves, which he believed to be a most potent medicine.
+
+About 10 A.M. appeared from the direction of Ujiji a caravan of
+eighty Waguhha, a tribe which occupies a tract of country on the
+south-western side of the Lake Tanganika.  We asked the news, and
+were told a white man had just arrived at Ujiji from Manyuema.
+This news startled us all.
+
+"A white man?" we asked.
+
+"Yes, a white man," they replied.
+
+"How is he dressed?"
+
+"Like the master," they answered, referring to me.
+
+"Is he young, or old?"
+
+"He is old.  He has white hair on his face, and is sick."
+
+"Where has he come from?"
+
+"From a very far country away beyond Uguhha, called Manyuema."
+
+"Indeed! and is he stopping at Ujiji now?"
+
+"Yes, we saw him about eight days ago."
+
+"Do you think he will stop there until we see him?"
+
+"Sigue" (don't know).
+
+"Was he ever at Ujiji before?"
+
+"Yes, he went away a long time ago."
+
+Hurrah!  This is Livingstone!  He must be Livingstone!  He can be
+no other; but still;--he may be some one else--some one from the
+West Coast--or perhaps he is Baker!  No; Baker has no white hair
+on his face.  But we must now march quick, lest he hears we are
+coming, and runs away.
+
+I addressed my men, and asked them if they were willing to march
+to Ujiji without a single halt, and then promised them, if they
+acceded to my wishes, two doti each man.  All answered in the
+affirmative, almost as much rejoiced as I was myself.  But I was
+madly rejoiced; intensely eager to resolve the burning question,
+"Is it Dr. David Livingstone?"  God grant me patience, but I do
+wish there was a railroad, or, at least, horses in this country.
+
+We set out at once from the banks of the Malagarazi, accompanied
+by two guides furnished us by Usenge, the old man of the ferry,
+who, now that we had crossed, showed himself more amiably disposed
+to us.  We arrived at the village of Isinga, Sultan Katalambula,
+after a little over an hour's march across a saline plain, but
+which as we advanced into the interior became fertile and productive.
+
+November 4th.--Started early with great caution, maintaining deep
+silence.  The guides were sent forward, one two hundred yards ahead
+of the other, that we might be warned in time.  The first part of
+the march was through a thin jungle of dwarf trees, which got thinner
+and thinner until finally it vanished altogether, and we had
+entered Uhha--a plain country.  Villages were visible by the score
+among the tall bleached stalks of dourra and maize.  Sometimes three,
+sometimes five, ten, or twenty beehive-shaped huts formed a village.
+The Wahha were evidently living in perfect security, for not one
+village amongst them all was surrounded with the customary
+defence of an African village.  A narrow dry ditch formed the only
+boundary between Uhha and Uvinza.  On entering Uhha, all danger
+from Makumbi vanished.
+
+We halted at Kawanga, the chief of which lost no time in making us
+understand that he was the great Mutware of Kimenyi under the king,
+and that he was the tribute gatherer for his Kiha majesty.  He
+declared that he was the only one in Kimenyi--an eastern division
+of Uhha--who could demand tribute; and that it would be very
+satisfactory to him, and a saving of trouble to ourselves, if we
+settled his claim of twelve doti of good cloths at once.  We did
+not think it the best way of proceeding, knowing as we did the
+character of the native African; so we at once proceeded to
+diminish this demand; but, after six hours' hot argument, the
+Mutware only reduced it by two.  This claim was then settled,
+upon the understanding that we should be allowed to travel through
+Uhha as far as the Rusugi River without being further mulcted.
+
+November 5th.--Leaving Kawanga early in the morning and
+continuing our march over the boundless plains, which were bleached
+white by the hot equatorial sun, we were marching westward full of
+pleasant anticipations that we were nearing the end of our
+troubles, joyfully congratulating ourselves that within five days
+we should see that which I had come so far from civilisation, and
+through so many difficulties, to see, and were about passing a
+cluster of villages, with all the confidence which men possess
+against whom no one had further claim or a word to say, when I
+noticed two men darting from a group of natives who were watching
+us, and running towards the head of the Expedition, with the object,
+evidently, of preventing further progress.
+
+The caravan stopped, and I walked forward to ascertain the cause
+from the two natives.  I was greeted politely by the two Wahha
+with the usual "Yambos," and was then asked, "Why does the white
+man pass by the village of the King of Uhha without salutation
+and a gift?  Does not the white man know there lives a king in Uhha,
+to whom the Wangwana and Arabs pay something for right of passage?"
+
+"Why, we paid last night to the chief of Kawanga, who informed us
+that he was the man deputed by the King of Uhha to collect the
+toll."
+
+"How much did you pay?"
+
+"Ten doti of good cloth."
+
+"Are you sure?"
+
+"Quite sure.  If you ask him, he will tell you so."
+
+"Well," said one of the Wahha, a fine, handsome, intelligent-looking
+youth, "it is our duty to the king to halt you here until we find out
+the truth of this.  Will you walk to our village, and rest yourselves
+under the shade of our trees until we can send messengers to Kawanga?"
+
+"No; the sun is but an hour high, and we have far to travel;
+but, in order to show you we do not seek to pass through your
+country without doing that which is right, we will rest where we
+now stand, and we will send with your messengers two of our
+soldiers, who will show you the man to whom we paid the cloth."
+
+The messengers departed; but, in the meantime, the handsome youth,
+who turned out to be the nephew of the King, whispered some order
+to a lad, who immediately hastened away, with the speed of an
+antelope, to the cluster of villages which we had just passed.  The
+result of this errand, as we saw in a short time, was the approach
+of a body of warriors, about fifty in number, headed by a tall,
+fine-looking man, who was dressed in a crimson robe called Joho,
+two ends of which were tied in a knot over the left shoulder; a
+new piece of American sheeting was folded like a turban around his
+head, and a large curved piece of polished ivory was suspended to
+his neck.  He and his people were all armed with spears, and bows
+and arrows, and their advance was marked with a deliberation that
+showed they felt confidence in any issue that might transpire.
+
+We were halted on the eastern side of the Pombwe stream, near the
+village of Lukomo, in Kimenyi, Uhha.  The gorgeously-dressed chief
+was a remarkable man in appearance.  His face was oval in form,
+high cheek-bones, eyes deeply sunk, a prominent and bold forehead,
+a fine nose, and a well-cut mouth; he was tall in figure, and
+perfectly symmetrical.
+
+When near to us, he hailed me with the words,
+
+"Yambo, bana?--How do you do, master?" in quite a cordial
+tone.
+
+I replied cordially also, "Yambo, mutware?--How do you do, chief?"
+
+We, myself and men, interchanged "Yambos" with his warriors; and
+there was nothing in our first introduction to indicate that the
+meeting was of a hostile character.
+
+The chief seated himself, his haunches resting on his heels, laying
+down his bow and arrows by his side; his men did likewise.
+
+I seated myself on a bale, and each of my men sat down on their
+loads, forming quite a semicircle.  The Wahha slightly outnumbered
+my party; but, while they were only armed with bows and arrows,
+spears, and knob-sticks, we were armed with rifles, muskets,
+revolvers, pistols, and hatchets.
+
+All were seated, and deep silence was maintained by the assembly.
+The great plains around us were as still in this bright noon as if
+they were deserted of all living creatures.  Then the chief
+spoke:
+
+"I am Mionvu, the great Mutware of Kimenyi, and am next to the
+King, who lives yonder," pointing to a large village near some
+naked hills about ten miles to the north.  "I have come to talk
+with the white man.  It has always been the custom of the Arabs
+and the Wangwana to make a present to the King when they pass
+through his country.  Does not the white man mean to pay the King's
+dues?  Why does the white man halt in the road?  Why will he not
+enter the village of Lukomo, where there is food and shade--where
+we can discuss this thing quietly?  Does the white man mean to fight?
+I know well he is stronger than we are.  His men have guns, and the
+Wahha have but bows and arrows, and spears; but Uhha is large, and
+our villages are many.  Let him look about him everywhere--all is Uhha,
+and our country extends much further than he can see or walk in a
+day.  The King of Uhha is strong; yet he wishes friendship only
+with the white man.  Will the white man have war or peace?"
+
+A deep murmur of assent followed this speech of Mionvu from his
+people, and disapprobation, blended with a certain uneasiness;
+from my men.  When about replying, the words of General Sherman,
+which I heard him utter to the chiefs of the Arapahoes and
+Cheyennes at North Platte, in 1867, came to my mind; and
+something of their spirit I embodied in my reply to Mionvu,
+Mutware of Kimenyi.
+
+"Mionvu, the great Mutware, asks me if I have come for war.
+When did Mionvu ever hear of white men warring against black men?
+Mionvu must understand that the white men are different from the
+black.  White men do not leave their country to fight the black
+people, neither do they come here to buy ivory or slaves.  They
+come to make friends with black people; they come to search for
+rivers; and lakes, and mountains; they come to discover what countries,
+what peoples, what rivers, what lakes, what forests, what plains,
+what mountains and hills are in your country; to know the
+different animals that are in the land of the black people, that,
+when they go back, they may tell the white kings, and men, and
+children, what they have seen and heard in the land so far from
+them.  The white people are different from the Arabs and Wangwana;
+the white people know everything, and are very strong.  When they
+fight, the Arabs and the Wangwana run away.  We have great guns
+which thunder,, and when they shoot the earth trembles; we have
+guns which carry bullets further than you can see:  even with these
+little things" (pointing to my revolvers) "I could kill ten men
+quicker than you could count.  We are stronger than the Wahha.
+Mionvu has spoken the truth, yet we do not wish to fight.  I could
+kill Mionvu now, yet I talk to him as to a friend.  I wish to be a
+friend to Mionvu, and to all black people.  Will Mionvu say what
+I can do for him?"
+
+As these words were translated to him--imperfectly, I suppose,
+but still, intelligibly--the face of the Wahha showed how well
+they appreciated them.  Once or twice I thought I detected something
+like fear, but my assertions that I desired peace and friendship
+with them soon obliterated all such feelings.
+
+Mionvu replied:
+
+"The white man tells me he is friendly.  Why does he not come to
+our village?  Why does he stop on the road?  The sun is hot.
+Mionvu will not speak here any more.  If the white man is a friend
+he will come to the village."
+
+"We must stop now.  It is noon.  You have broken our march.  We
+will go and camp in your village," I said, at the same time rising
+and pointing to the men to take up their loads.
+
+We were compelled to camp; there was no help for it; the messengers
+had not returned from Kawanga.  Having arrived in his village,
+Mionvu had cast himself at full length under the scanty shade
+afforded by a few trees within the boma.  About 2 P.M. the
+messengers returned, saying it was true the chief of Kawanga had
+taken ten cloths; not, however for the King of Uhha, but for
+himself!
+
+Mionvu, who evidently was keen-witted, and knew perfectly what he
+was about, now roused himself, and began to make miniature faggots
+of thin canes, ten in each faggot, and shortly he presented ten
+of these small bundles, which together contained one hundred, to me,
+saying each stick represented a cloth, and the amount of the "honga"
+required by the King of Uhha was ONE HUNDRED CLOTHS!--nearly two bales!
+
+Recovering from our astonishment, which was almost indescribable,
+we offered TEN.
+
+"Ten! to the King of Uhha!  Impossible.  You do not stir from
+Lukomo until you pay us one hundred!" exclaimed Mionvu, in a
+significant manner.
+
+I returned no answer, but went to my hut, which Mionvu had cleared
+for my use, and Bombay, Asmani, Mabruki, and Chowpereh were invited--
+to come to me for consultation.  Upon my asking them if we could not
+fight our way through Uhha, they became terror-stricken, and Bombay,
+in imploring accents, asked me to think well what I was about to do,
+because it was useless to enter on a war with the Wahha.  "Uhha is
+all a plain country; we cannot hide anywhere.  Every village will
+rise all about us, and how can forty-five men fight thousands of
+people?  They would kill us all in a few minutes, and how would you
+ever reach Ujiji if you died?  Think of it, my dear master, and do
+not throw your life away for a few rags of cloth."
+
+"Well, but, Bombay, this is robbery.  Shall we submit to be robbed?
+Shall we give this fellow everything he asks?  He might as well ask
+me for all the cloth, and all my guns, without letting him see that
+we can fight.  I can kill Mionvu and his principal men myself, and
+you can slay all those howlers out there without much trouble.
+If Mionvu and his principal were dead we should not be troubled much,
+and we could strike south to the Mala-garazi, and go west to Ujiji."
+
+ "No, no, dear master, don't think of it for a moment.  If we went
+ neat the Malagarazi we should come across Lokanda-Mira."
+
+ "Well, then, we will go north."
+
+ "Up that way Uhha extends far; and beyond Uhha are the Watuta."
+
+ "Well, then, say what we shall do.  We must do something; but we
+ must not be robbed."
+
+ "Pay Mionvu what he asks, and let us go away from here.  This is
+ the last place we shall have to pay.  And in four days we shall be
+ in Ujiji."
+
+ "Did Mionvu tell you that this is the last time we would have to
+ pay?"
+
+ "He did, indeed."
+
+ "What do you say, Asmani ?  Shall we fight or pay?"  Asmani's
+ face wore the usual smile, but he replied,
+
+ "I am afraid we must pay.  This is positively the last time."
+
+ "And you, Chowpereh?"
+
+ "Pay, bana; it is better to get along quietly in this country.
+ If we were strong enough they would pay us.  Ah, if we had only
+ two hundred guns, how these Wahha would run!"
+
+ "What do you say, Mabruki?"
+
+ "Ah, master, dear master; it is very hard, and these people are
+ great robbers.  I would like to chop their heads off, all; so I
+ would.  But you had better pay.  This is the last time; and what
+ are one hundred cloths to you?"
+
+ "Well, then, Bombay and Asmani, go to Mionvu, and offer him twenty.
+ If he will not take twenty, give him thirty.  If he refuses thirty,
+ give him forty; then go up to eighty, slowly.  Make plenty of talk;
+ not one doti more.  I swear to you I will shoot Mionvu if he demands
+ more than eighty.  Go, and remember to be wise."
+
+ I will cut the matter short.  At 9 P.M. sixty-four doti were
+ handed over to Mionvu, for the King of Uhha; six doti for
+ himself, and five doti for his sub; altogether seventy-five doti--
+ a bale and a quarter!  No sooner had we paid than they began to
+ fight amongst themselves over the booty, and I was in hopes that
+ the factions would proceed to battle, that I might have good excuse
+ for leaving them, and plunging south to the jungle that I believed
+ existed there, by which means, under its friendly cover, we might
+ strike west.  But no, it was only a verbose war, which portended
+ nothing more than a noisy clamor.
+
+ November 6th.--At dawn we were on the road, very silent and sad.
+ Our stock of cloth was much diminished; we had nine bales left,
+ sufficient to have taken us to the Atlantic Ocean--aided by the
+ beads, which were yet untouched--if we practised economy.  If I
+ met many more like Mionvu I had not enough to take me to Ujiji,
+ and, though we were said to be so near, Livingstone seemed to me
+ to be just as far as ever.
+
+ We crossed the Pombwe, and then struck across a slowly-undulating
+ plain rising gradually to mountains on our right, and on our left
+ sinking towards the valley of the Malagarazi, which river was
+ about twenty miles away.  Villages rose to our view everywhere.
+ Food was cheap, milk was plentiful, and the butter good.
+
+ After a four hours' march, we crossed the Kanengi River, and
+ entered the boma of Kahirigi, inhabited by several Watusi and Wahha.
+ Here, we were told, lived the King of Uhha's brother.  This
+ announcement was anything but welcome, and I began to suspect I had
+ fallen into another hornets' nest.  We had not rested two hours
+ before two Wangwana entered my tent, who were slaves of Thani bin
+ Abdullah, our dandified friend of Unyanyembe.  These men came, on
+ the part of the king's brother, to claim the HONGA !  The king's
+ brother, demanded thirty doti!  Half a bale!  Merciful Providence!
+ What shall I do?
+
+ We had been told by Mionvu that the honga of Uhha was settled--and
+ now here is another demand from the King's brother!  It is the
+ second time the lie has been told, and we have twice been deceived.
+ We shall be deceived no more.
+
+ These two men informed us there were five more chiefs, living but
+ two hours from each other, who would exact tribute, or black-mail,
+ like those we had seen.  Knowing this much, I felt a certain calm.
+ It was far better to know the worst at once.  Five more chiefs with
+ their demands would assuredly ruin us.  In view of which, what is
+ to be done?  How am I to reach Livingstone, without being beggared?
+
+ Dismissing the men, I called Bombay, and told him to assist Asmani
+ in settling the honga--" as cheaply as possible."  I then lit my
+ pipe, put on the cap of consideration, and began to think.  Within
+ half an hour, I had made a plan, which was to be attempted to be
+ put in execution that very night.
+
+ I summoned the two slaves of Thani bin Abdullah, after the honga
+ had been settled to everybody's satisfaction--though the profoundest
+ casuistries and diplomatic arguments failed to reduce it lower than
+ twenty-six doti--and began asking them about the possibility of
+ evading the tribute-taking Wahha ahead.
+
+ This rather astonished them at first, and they declared it to be
+ impossible; but, finally, after being pressed, they replied, that
+ one of their number should guide us at midnight, or a little after,
+ into the jungle which grew on the frontiers of Uhha and Uvinza.  By
+ keeping a direct west course through this jungle until we came to
+ Ukaranga we might be enabled--we were told--to travel through Uhha
+ without further trouble.  If I were willing to pay the guide
+ twelve doti, and if I were able to impose silence on my people
+ while passing through the sleeping village, the guide was positive
+ I could reach Ujiji without paying another doti.  It is needless to
+ add, that I accepted the proffered assistance at such a price with
+ joy.
+
+ But there was much to be done.  Provisions were to be purchased,
+ sufficient to last four days, for the tramp through the jungle,
+ and men were at once sent with cloth to purchase grain at any price.
+ Fortune favoured us, for before 8 P.M. we had enough for six days.
+
+ November 7th.--I did not go to sleep at all last night, but a
+ little after midnight, as the moon was beginning to show itself,
+ by gangs of four, the men stole quietly out of the village; and
+ by 3 A.M. the entire Expedition was outside the boma, and not the
+ slightest alarm had been made.  After a signal to the new guide,
+ the Expedition began to move in a southern direction along the
+ right bank of the Kanengi River.  After an hour's march in this
+ direction, we struck west, across the grassy plain, and maintained
+ it, despite the obstacles we encountered, which were sore enough to
+ naked men.  The bright moon lighted our path: dark clouds now and
+ then cast immense long shadows over the deserted and silent plains,
+ and the moonbeans were almost obscured, and at such times our
+ position seemed awful--
+
+ Till the moon.
+ Rising in clouded majesty, at length,
+ Apparent queen, unveiled her peerless light,
+ And o'er the dark her silver mantle threw.
+
+ Bravely toiled the men, without murmur, though their legs were
+ bleeding from the cruel grass.  "Ambrosial morn" at last appeared,
+ with all its beautiful and lovely features.  Heaven was born anew
+ to us, with comforting omens and cheery promise.  The men, though
+ fatigued at the unusual travel, sped forward with quicker, pace as
+ daylight broke, until, at 8 A.M., we sighted the swift Rusugi River,
+ when a halt was ordered in a clump of jungle near it, for breakfast
+ and rest.  Both banks of the river were alive with buffalo, eland,
+ and antelope, but, though the sight was very tempting, we did not
+ fire, because we dared not.  The report of a gun would have alarmed
+ the whole country.  I preferred my coffee, and the contentment which
+ my mind experienced at our success.
+
+ An hour after we had rested, some natives, carrying salt from the
+ Malagarazi, were seen coming up the right bank of the river.  When
+ abreast of our hiding-place, they detected us, and dropping their
+ salt-bags, they took to their heels at once, shouting out as they
+ ran, to alarm some villages that appeared about four miles north of
+ us.  The men were immediately ordered to take up their loads, and
+ in a few minutes we had crossed the Rusugi, and were making direct
+ for a bamboo jungle that appeared in our front.  On, on, we kept
+ steadily until, at 1 P.M., we sighted the little lake of Musunya,
+ as wearied as possible with our nine hours march.
+
+ Lake Musunya is one of the many circular basins found in this part
+ of Uhha.  There was quite a group of them.  The more correct term
+ of these lakes would be immense pools.  In the Masika season, Lake
+ Musunya must extend to three or four miles in length by two in breadth.
+ It swarms with hippopotami, and its shores abound with noble game.
+
+ We were very quiet, as may be imagined, in our bivouac; neither
+ tent nor hut was raised, nor was fire kindled, so that, in case of
+ pursuit, we could move off without delay.  I kept my Winchester
+ rifle (the gift of my friend Mr. Morris, and a rare gift it was
+ for such a crisis) with its magazine full, and two hundred
+ cartridges in a bag slung over my shoulders.  Each soldier's gun
+ was also ready and loaded, and we retired to sleep our fatigues
+ off with a feeling of perfect security.
+
+ November 8th.--Long before dawn appeared, we were on the march, and,
+ as daylight broke, we emerged from the bamboo jungle, and struck
+ across the naked plain of Uhha, once more passing several large
+ pools by the way--far-embracing prospects of undulating country,
+ with here and there a characteristic clump of trees relieving the
+ general nudity of the whole.  Hour after hour we toiled on,
+ across the rolling land waves, the sun shining with all its wonted
+ African fervor, but with its heat slightly tempered by the
+ welcome breezes, which came laden with the fragrance of young
+ grass, and perfume of strange flowers of various hues, that flecked
+ the otherwise pale-green sheet which extended so far around us.
+
+ We arrived at the Rugufu River--not the Ukawendi Rugufu, but the
+ northern stream of that name, a tributary of the Malagarazi.  It
+ was a broad shallow stream, and sluggish, with an almost imperceptible
+ flow south-west.  While we halted in the deep shade afforded by a
+ dense clump of jungle, close to the right bank, resting awhile before
+ continuing our journey.  I distinctly heard a sound as of distant
+ thunder in the west.  Upon asking if it were thunder, I was told it
+ was Kabogo.
+
+ "Kabogo? what is that?"
+
+ "It is a great mountain on the other side of the Tanganika, full
+ of deep holes, into which the water rolls; and when there is wind
+ on the Tanganika, there is a sound like mvuha (thunder).  Many
+ boats have been lost there, and it is a custom with Arabs and
+ natives to throw cloth--Merikani and Kaniki--and especially white
+ (Merikani) beads, to appease the mulungu (god) of the lake.
+ Those who throw beads generally get past without trouble,
+ but those who do not throw beads into the lake get lost, and are
+ drowned.  Oh, it is a dreadful place!"  This story was told me by
+ the ever-smiling guide Asmani, and was corroborated by other
+ former mariners of the lake whom I had with me.
+
+ At the least, this place where we halted for dinner, on the banks
+ of the Rugufu River, is eighteen and a half hours, or forty-six
+ miles, from Ujiji; and, as Kabogo is said to be near Uguhha, it
+ must be over sixty miles from Ujiji; therefore the sound of the
+ thundering surf, which is said to roll into the caves of Kabogo,
+ was heard by us at a distance of over one hundred miles away from
+ them.
+
+ Continuing our journey for three hours longer, through thin
+ forests, over extensive beds of primitive rock, among fields of
+ large boulders thickly strewn about, passing by numerous herds
+ of buffalo, giraffe, and zebra, over a quaking quagmire which
+ resembled peat, we arrived at the small stream of Sunuzzi, to a
+ camping place only a mile removed from a large settlement of Wahha.
+ But we were buried in the depths of a great forest--no road was in
+ the vicinity, no noise was made, deep silence was preserved; nor
+ were fires lit.  We might therefore rest tranquilly secure, certain
+ that we should not be disturbed.  To-morrow morning the kirangozi
+ has promised we shall be out of Uhha, and if we travel on to
+ Niamtaga, in Ukaranga, the same day, the next day would see us
+ in Ujiji.
+
+ Patience, my soul!  A few hours more, then the end of all this
+ will be known!  I shall be face to face with that "white man with
+ the white hairs on his face, whoever he is!"
+
+ November 9th.--Two hours before dawn we left our camp on the Sunuzzi
+ River, and struck through the forest in a north-by-west direction,
+ having muzzled our goats previously, lest, by their bleating, they
+ might betray us.  This was a mistake which might have ended
+ tragically, for just as the eastern sky began to assume a pale
+ greyish tint, we emerged from the jungle on the high road.  The
+ guide thought we had passed Uhha, and set up a shout which was
+ echoed by every member of the caravan, and marched onward with
+ new vigor and increased energy, when plump we came to the outskirts
+ of a village, the inhabitants of which were beginning to stir.
+ Silence was called for at once, and the Expedition halted
+ immediately.  I walked forward to the front to advise with the guide.
+ He did not know what to do.  There was no time to consider, so I
+ ordered the goats to be slaughtered and left on the road, and the
+ guide to push on boldly through the village.  The chickens also had
+ their throats cut; after which the Expedition resumed the march
+ quickly and silently, led by the guide, who had orders to plunge
+ into the jungle south of the road.  I stayed until the last man
+ had disappeared; then, after preparing my Winchester, brought up
+ the rear, followed by my gunbearers with their stock of ammunition.
+ As we were about disappearing beyond the last hut, a man darted out
+ of his hut, and uttered an exclamation of alarm, and loud voices
+ were heard as if in dispute.  But in a short time we were in the
+ depths of the jungle, hurrying away from the road in a southern
+ direction, and edging slightly westward.  Once I thought we were
+ pursued, and I halted behind a tree to check our foes if they
+ persisted in following us; but a few minutes proved to me that we
+ were not pursued, After half-an-hour's march we again turned our
+ faces westward.  It was broad daylight now, and our eyes were
+ delighted with most picturesque and sequestered little valleys,
+ where wild fruit-trees grew, and rare flowers blossomed, and
+ tiny brooks tumbled over polished pebbles--where all was bright
+ and beautiful--until, finally, wading through one pretty pure
+ streamlet, whose soft murmurs we took for a gentle welcome, we
+ passed the boundary of wicked Uhha, and had entered Ukaranga!--
+ an event that was hailed with extravagant shouts of joy.
+
+ Presently we found the smooth road, and we trod gaily with
+ elastic steps, with limbs quickened for the march which we all
+ knew to be drawing near its end.  What cared we now for the
+ difficulties we had encountered--for the rough and cruel forests,
+ for the thorny thickets and hurtful grass, for the jangle of all
+ savagedom, of which we had been the joyless audience!  To-morrow!
+ Ay, the great day draws nigh, and we may well laugh and sing while
+ in this triumphant mood.  We have been sorely tried; we have been
+ angry with each other when vexed by troubles, but we forget all
+ these now, and there is no face but is radiant with the happiness
+ we have all deserved.
+
+ We made a short halt at noon, for rest and refreshment.  I was
+ shown the hills from which the Tanganika could be seen, which
+ bounded the valley of the Liuche on the east.  I could not contain
+ myself at the sight of them.  Even with this short halt I was
+ restless and unsatisfied.  We resumed the march again.  I spurred
+ my men forward with the promise that to-morrow should see their reward.
+
+ We were in sight of the villages of the Wakaranga; the people
+ caught sight of us, and manifested considerable excitement.  I sent
+ men ahead to reassure them, and they came forward to greet us.  This
+ was so new and welcome to us, so different from the turbulent Wavinza
+ and the black-mailers of Uhha, that we were melted.  But we had
+ no time to loiter by the way to indulge our joy.  I was impelled onward
+ by my almost uncontrollable feelings.  I wished to resolve my doubts
+ and fears.  Was HE still there?  Had HE heard of my coming?  Would HE
+ fly?
+
+ How beautiful Ukaranga appears!  The green hills are crowned by
+ clusters of straw-thatched cones.  The hills rise and fall; here
+ denuded and cultivated, there in pasturage, here timbered, yonder
+ swarming with huts.  The country has somewhat the aspect of Maryland.
+
+ We cross the Mkuti, a glorious little river!  We ascend the opposite
+ bank, and stride through the forest like men who have done a deed
+ of which they may be proud.  We have already travelled nine hours,
+ and the sun is sinking rapidly towards the west; yet, apparently,
+ we are not fatigued.
+
+ We reach the outskirts of Niamtaga, and we hear drums beat.  The
+ people are flying into the woods; they desert their villages, for
+ they take us to be Ruga-Ruga--the forest thieves of Mirambo, who,
+ after conquering the Arabs of Unyanyembe, are coming to fight the
+ Arabs of Ujiji.  Even the King flies from his village, and every
+ man, woman, and child, terror-stricken, follows him.  We enter
+ into it and quietly take possession.  Finally, the word is bruited
+ about that we are Wangwana, from Unyanyembe.
+
+ "Well, then, is Mirambo dead?" they ask.
+
+ "No," we answer.
+
+ "Well, how did you come to Ukaranga?"
+
+ "By way of Ukonongo, Ukawendi, and Uhha."
+
+ " Oh--hi-le!" Then they laugh heartily at their fright, and begin
+ to make excuses.  The King is introduced to me, and he says he had
+ only gone to the woods in order to attack us again--he meant to have
+ come back and killed us all, if we had been Ruga-Ruga.  But then we
+ know the poor King was terribly frightened, and would never have
+ dared to return, had we been RugaRuga--not he.  We are not, however,
+ in a mood to quarrel with him about an idiomatic phrase peculiar
+ to him, but rather take him by the hand and shake it well, and say
+ we are so very glad to see him.  And he shares in our pleasure,
+ and immediately three of the fattest sheep, pots of beer, flour,
+ and honey are brought to us as a gift, and I make him happier still
+ with two of the finest cloths I have in my bales; and thus a
+ friendly pact is entered into between us.
+
+ While I write my Diary of this day's proceedings, I tell my
+ servant to lay out my new flannel suit, to oil my boots, to
+ chalk my helmet, and fold a new puggaree around it, that I may
+ make as presentable an appearance as possible before the white
+ man with the grey beard, and before the Arabs of Ujiji; for the
+ clothes I have worn through jungle and forest are in tatters.
+ Good-night; only let one day come again, and we shall see what
+ we shall see.
+
+ November 10th. Friday.--The 236th day from Bagamoyo on the Sea,
+ and the 51st day from Unyanyembe.  General direction to Ujiji,
+ west-by-south.  Time of march, six hours.
+
+ It is a happy, glorious morning.  The air is fresh and cool.
+ The sky lovingly smiles on the earth and her children.  The deep
+ woods are crowned in bright vernal leafage; the water of the Mkuti,
+ rushing under the emerald shade afforded by the bearded banks,
+ seems to challenge us for the race to Ujiji, with its continuous
+ brawl.
+
+ We are all outside the village cane fence, every man of us looking
+ as spruce, as neat, and happy as when we embarked on the dhows at
+ Zanzibar, which seems to us to have been ages ago--we have witnessed
+ and experienced so much.
+
+ "Forward!"
+
+ "Ay Wallah, ay Wallah, bana yango!" and the lighthearted braves
+ stride away at a rate which must soon bring us within view of
+ Ujiji.  We ascend a hill overgrown with bamboo, descend into a
+ ravine through which dashes an impetuous little torrent, ascend
+ another short hill, then, along a smooth footpath running across
+ the slope of a long ridge, we push on as only eager, lighthearted
+ men can do.
+
+ In two hours I am warned to prepare for a view of the Tanganika,
+ for, from the top of a steep mountain the kirangozi says I can see
+ it.  I almost vent the feeling of my heart in cries.  But wait, we
+ must behold it first.  And we press forward and up the hill
+ breathlessly, lest the grand scene hasten away.  We are at last on
+ the summit.  Ah! not yet can it be seen.  A little further on--just
+ yonder, oh! there it is--a silvery gleam.  I merely catch sight of
+ it between the trees, and--but here it is at last!  True--THE TANGANIKA!
+ and there are the blue-black mountains of Ugoma and Ukaramba.  An
+ immense broad sheet, a burnished bed of silver--lucid canopy of
+ blue above--lofty mountains are its valances, palm forests form its
+ fringes!  The Tanganika!--Hurrah! and the men respond to the
+ exultant cry of the Anglo-Saxon with the lungs of Stentors, and the
+ great forests and the hills seem to share in our triumph.
+
+ "Was this the place where Burton and Speke stood, Bombay, when they
+ saw the lake first?"
+
+ "I don't remember, master; it was somewhere about here, I think."
+
+ "Poor fellows!  The one was half-paralyzed, the other half-blind,"
+ said Sir Roderick Murchison, when he described Burton and Spoke's
+ arrival in view of the Tanganika.
+
+ And I?  Well, I am so happy that, were I quite paralyzed and
+ blinded, I think that at this supreme moment I could take up my
+ bed and walk, and all blindness would cease at once.  Fortunately,
+ however, I am quite well; I have not suffered a day's sickness
+ since the day I left Unyanyembe.  How much would Shaw be willing
+ to give to be in my place now?  Who is happiest--he revelling in
+ the luxuries of Unyanyembe, or I, standing on the summit of this
+ mountain, looking down with glad eyes and proud heart on the
+ Tanganika?
+
+ We are descending the western slope of the mountain, with the
+ valley of the Liuche before us.  Something like an hour before
+ noon we have gained the thick matete brake, which grows on both
+ banks of the river; we wade through the clear stream, arrive on
+ the other side, emerge out of the brake, and the gardens of the
+ Wajiji are around us--a perfect marvel of vegetable wealth.
+ Details escape my hasty and partial observation.  I am almost
+ overpowered with my own emotions.  I notice the graceful palms,
+ neat plots, green with vegetable plants, and small villages
+ surrounded with frail fences of the matete-cane.
+
+ We push on rapidly, lest the news of our coming might reach the
+ people of Ujiji before we come in sight, and are ready for them.
+ We halt at a little brook, then ascend the long slope of a naked
+ ridge, the very last of the myriads we have crossed.  This alone
+ prevents us from seeing the lake in all its vastness.  We arrive
+ at the summit, travel across and arrive at its western rim, and--
+ pause, reader--the port of Ujiji is below us, embowered in the
+ palms, only five hundred yards from us!
+
+ At this grand moment we do not think of the hundreds of miles we
+ have marched, or of the hundreds of hills that we have ascended
+ and descended, or of the many forests we have traversed, or of the
+ jungles and thickets that annoyed us, or of the fervid salt plains
+ that blistered our feet, or of the hot suns that scorched us, nor
+ of the dangers and difficulties, now happily surmounted!
+
+ At last the sublime hour has arrived;--our dreams, our hopes, and
+ anticipations are now about to be realised!  Our hearts and our
+ feelings are with our eyes, as we peer into the palms and try to
+ make out in which hut or house lives the "white man with the grey
+ beard" we heard about when we were at the Malagarazi.
+
+ "Unfurl the flags, and load your guns!"
+
+ "We will, master, we will, master!" respond the men eagerly.
+
+ "One, two, three,--fire!"
+
+ A volley from nearly fifty guns roars like a salute from a
+ battery of artillery : we shall note its effect presently on
+ the peaceful-looking village below.
+
+ "Now, kirangozi, hold the white man's flag up high, and let the
+ Zanzibar flag bring up the rear.  And you men keep close together,
+ and keep firing until we halt in the market-place, or before the
+ white man's house.  You have said to me often that you could smell
+ the fish of the Tanganika--I can smell the fish of the Tanganika
+ now.  There are fish, and beer, and a long rest waiting for you.
+ MARCH!"
+
+ Before we had gone a hundred yards our repeated volleys had the
+ effect desired.  We had awakened Ujiji to the knowledge that a
+ caravan was coming, and the people were witnessed rushing up in
+ hundreds to meet us.  The mere sight of the flags informed every
+ one immediately that we were a caravan, but the American flag
+ borne aloft by gigantic Asmani, whose face was one vast smile on
+ this day, rather staggered them at first.  However, many of the
+ people who now approached us, remembered the flag.  They had seen
+ it float above the American Consulate, and from the mast-head of
+ many a ship in the harbor of Zanzibar, and they were soon heard
+ welcoming the beautiful flag with cries of "Bindera Kisungu!"--a
+ white man's flag!  "Bindera Merikani!"--the American flag!
+
+ Then we were surrounded by them: by Wajiji, Wanyamwezi, Wangwana,
+ Warundi, Waguhha, Wamanyuema, and Arabs, and were almost
+ deafened with the shouts of "Yambo, yambo, bana!  Yambo, bana!
+ Yambo, bana!" To all and each of my men the welcome was given.
+
+ We were now about three hundred yards from the village of Ujiji,
+ and the crowds are dense about me.  Suddenly I hear a voice on
+ my right say,
+
+ "Good morning, sir!"
+
+ Startled at hearing this greeting in the midst of such a crowd of
+ black people, I turn sharply around in search of the man, and see
+ him at my side, with the blackest of faces, but animated and
+ joyous--a man dressed in a long white shirt, with a turban of
+ American sheeting around his woolly head, and I ask:
+
+ "Who the mischief are you?"
+
+ "I am Susi, the servant of Dr. Livingstone," said be, smiling,
+ and showing a gleaming row of teeth.
+
+ "What!  Is Dr. Livingstone here?"
+
+ "Yes, sir."
+
+ "In this village?"
+
+ "Yes, sir."
+
+ "Are you sure?"
+
+ "Sure, sure, sir.  Why, I leave him just now.""
+
+ "Good morning, sir," said another voice.
+
+ "Hallo," said I, "is this another one?"
+
+ "Yes, sir."
+
+ "Well, what is your name?"
+
+ "My name is Chumah, sir."
+
+ "What! are you Chumah, the friend of Wekotani?"
+
+ "Yes, sir."
+
+ "And is the-Doctor well?"
+
+ " Not very well, sir."
+
+ "Where has he been so long?"
+
+ "In Manyuema."
+
+ "Now, you Susi, run, and tell the Doctor I am coming."
+
+ "Yes, sir," and off he darted like a madman.
+
+ But by this time we were within two hundred yards of the village,
+ and the multitude was getting denser, and almost preventing our
+ march.  Flags and streamers were out; Arabs and Wangwana were
+ pushing their way through the natives in order to greet us, for
+ according to their account, we belonged to them.  But the great
+ wonder of all was, "How did you come from Unyanyembe?"
+
+ Soon Susi came running back, and asked me my name; he had told
+ the Doctor I was coming, but the Doctor was too surprised to believe
+ him, and when the Doctor asked him my name, Susi was rather staggered.
+
+ But, during Susi's absence, the news had been conveyed to the
+ Doctor that it was surely a white man that was coming, whose guns
+ were firing, and whose flag could be seen; and the great Arab
+ magnates of Ujiji--Mohammed bin Sali, Sayd bin Majid, Abid bin
+ Suliman, Mohammed bin Gharib, and others--had gathered together
+ before the Doctor's house, and the Doctor had come out from his
+ veranda to discuss the matter and await my arrival.
+
+ In the meantime, the head of the Expedition had halted, and the
+ kirangozi was out of the ranks, holding his flag aloft, and Selim
+ said to me, "I see the Doctor, sir.  Oh, what an old man!  He has
+ got a white beard."  And I--what would I not have given for a bit
+ of friendly wilderness, where, unseen, I might vent my joy in some
+ mad freak, such as idiotically biting my hand; turning a somersault,
+ or slashing at trees, in order to allay those exciting feelings
+ that were well-nigh uncontrollable.  My heart beats fast, but I must
+ not let my face betray my emotions, lest it shall detract from the
+ dignity of a white man appearing under such extraordinary circumstances.
+
+ So I did that which I thought was most dignified.  I pushed back
+ the crowds, and, passing from the rear, walked down a living avenue
+ of people, until I came in front of the semicircle of Arabs, before
+ which stood the "white man with the grey beard."
+
+ As I advanced slowly towards him I noticed he was pale, that he
+ looked wearied and wan, that he had grey whiskers and moustache,
+ that he wore a bluish cloth cap with a faded gold band on a red
+ ground round it, and that he had on a red-sleeved waistcoat, and a
+ pair of grey tweed trousers.
+
+ I would have run to him, only I was a coward in the presence of
+ such a mob--would have embraced him, but that I did not know how
+ he would receive me; so I did what moral cowardice and false pride
+ suggested was the best thing--walked deliberately to him, took off
+ my hat, and said:
+
+ "DR. LIVINGSTONE, I PRESUME?"
+
+ "Yes," said he, with a kind, cordial smile, lifting his cap slightly.
+
+ I replaced my hat on my head, and he replaced his cap, and we
+ both grasped hands.  I then said aloud:
+
+ "I thank God, Doctor, I have been permitted to see you."
+
+ He answered, "I feel thankful that I am here to welcome you."
+
+ I turned to the Arabs, took off my hat to them in response to the
+ saluting chorus of "Yambos" I received, and the Doctor introduced
+ them to me by name.  Then, oblivious of the crowds, oblivious of
+ the men who shared with me my dangers, we--Livingstone and I--
+ turned our faces towards his house.  He pointed to the veranda,
+ or rather, mud platform, under the broad overhanging eaves; he
+ pointed to his own particular seat, which I saw his age and
+ experience in Africa had suggested, namely, a straw mat, with a
+ goatskin over it, and another skin nailed against the wall to
+ protect his back from contact with the cold mud.  I protested
+ against taking this seat, which so much more befitted him than I,
+ but the Doctor would not yield: I must take it.
+
+ We were seated--the Doctor and I--with our backs to the wall.
+ The Arabs took seats on our left.  More than a thousand natives
+ were in our front, filling the whole square densely, indulging
+ their curiosity, and discussing the fact of two white men meeting
+ at Ujiji--one just come from Manyuema, in the west, the other from
+ Unyanyembe, in the east.
+
+ Conversation began.  What about?  I declare I have forgotten.
+ Oh! we mutually asked questions of one another, such as
+ "How did you come here?" and "Where have you been all this long
+ time?--the world has believed you to be dead.  "Yes, that was the
+ way it began: but whatever the Doctor informed me, and that which
+ I communicated to him, I cannot correctly report, for I found myself
+ gazing at him, conning the wonderful figure and face of the man at
+ whose side I now sat in Central Africa.  Every hair of his head
+ and beard, every wrinkle of his face, the wanness of his features,
+ and the slightly wearied look he wore, were all imparting
+ intelligence to me--the knowledge I craved for so much ever since
+ I heard the words, "Take what you want, but find Livingstone."
+ What I saw was deeply interesting intelligence to me, and unvarnished
+ truth.  I was listening and reading at the same time.  What did these
+ dumb witnesses relate to me?
+
+ Oh, reader, had you been at my side on this day in Ujiji, how
+ eloquently could be told the nature of this man's work!  Had you
+ been there but to see and hear!  His lips gave me the details; lips
+ that never lie.  I cannot repeat what he said; I was too much
+ engrossed to take my note-book out, and begin to stenograph his story.
+ He had so much to say that he began at the end, seemingly oblivious
+ of the fact that five or six years had to be accounted for.  But his
+ account was oozing out; it was growing fast into grand proportions--
+ into a most marvellous history of deeds.
+
+ The Arabs rose up, with a delicacy I approved, as if they intuitively
+ knew that we ought to be left to ourselves.  I sent Bombay with them
+ to give them the news they also wanted so much to know about the
+ affairs at Unyanyembe.  Sayd bin Majid was the father of the gallant
+ young man whom I saw at Masangi, and who fought with me at Zimbizo,
+ and who soon afterwards was killed by Mirambo's Ruga-Ruga in the
+ forest of Wilyankuru; and, knowing that I had been there, he
+ earnestly desired to hear the tale of the fight; but they had all
+ friends at Unyanyembe, and it was but natural that they should be
+ anxious to hear of what concerned them.
+
+ After giving orders to Bombay and Asmani for the provisioning of
+ the men of the Expedition, I called "Kaif-Halek," or "How-do-ye-do,"
+ and introduced him to Dr. Livingstone as one of the soldiers in
+ charge of certain goods left at Unyanyembe, whom I had compelled
+ to accompany me to Ujiji, that he might deliver in person to his
+ master the letter-bag with which he had been entrusted.  This was
+ that famous letter-bag marked "Nov. 1st, 1870," which was now
+ delivered into the Doctor's hands 365 days after it left Zanzibar!
+ How long, I wonder, had it remained at Unyanyembe had I not been
+ despatched into Central Africa in search of the great traveller?
+
+ The Doctor kept the letter-bag on his knee, then, presently, opened
+ it, looked at the letters contained there, and read one or two of
+ his children's letters, his face in the meanwhile lighting up.
+
+ He asked me to tell him the news.  "No, Doctor," said I, "read your
+ letters first, which I am sure you must be impatient to read."
+
+ "Ah," said he, "I have waited years for letters, and I have been
+ taught patience.  I can surely afford to wait a few hours longer.
+ No, tell me the general news: how is the world getting along?
+
+ "You probably know much already.  Do you know that the Suez Canal
+ is a fact--is opened, and a regular trade carried on between Europe
+ and India through it?"
+
+ "I did not hear about the opening of it.  Well, that is grand news!
+ What else?"
+
+ Shortly I found myself enacting the part of an annual periodical
+ to him.  There was no need of exaggeration of any penny-a-line
+ news, or of any sensationalism.  The world had witnessed and
+ experienced much the last few years.  The Pacific Railroad had been
+ completed <1869>; Grant had been elected President of the United States;
+ Egypt had been flooded with savans: the Cretan rebellion had
+ terminated <1866-1868>; a Spanish revolution had driven Isabella
+ from the throne of Spain, and a Regent had been appointed: General
+ Prim was assassinated; a Castelar had electrified Europe with his
+ advanced ideas upon the liberty of worship; Prussia had humbled Denmark,
+ and annexed Schleswig-Holstein <1864>, and her armies were now around
+ Paris; the "Man of Destiny" was a prisoner at Wilhelmshohe;
+ the Queen of Fashion and the Empress of the French was a fugitive;
+ and the child born in the purple had lost for ever the Imperial
+ crown intended for his head; the Napoleon dynasty was extinguished
+ by the Prussians, Bismarck and Von Moltke; and France, the proud
+ empire, was humbled to the dust.
+
+ What could a man have exaggerated of these facts?  What a budget
+ of news it was to one who had emerged from the depths of the
+ primeval forests of Manyuema!  The reflection of the dazzling
+ light of civilisation was cast on him while Livingstone was thus
+ listening in wonder to one of the most exciting pages of history
+ ever repeated.  How the puny deeds of barbarism paled before
+ these!  Who could tell under what new phases of uneasy life Europe
+ was labouring even then, while we, two of her lonely children,
+ rehearsed the tale of her late woes and glories?  More worthily,
+ perhaps, had the tongue of a lyric Demodocus recounted them; but,
+ in the absence of the poet, the newspaper correspondent performed
+ his part as well and truthfully as he could.
+
+ Not long after the Arabs had departed, a dishful of hot hashed-meat
+ cakes was sent to us by Sayd bin Majid, and a curried chicken was
+ received from Mohammed bin Sali, and Moeni Kheri sent a dishful of
+ stewed goat-meat and rice; and thus presents of food came in
+ succession, and as fast as they were brought we set to.  I had a
+ healthy, stubborn digestion--the exercise I had taken had put it in
+ prime order; but Livingstone--he had been complaining that he had
+ no appetite, that his stomach refused everything but a cup of tea
+ now and then--he ate also--ate like a vigorous, hungry man; and,
+ as he vied with me in demolishing the pancakes, he kept repeating,
+ "You have brought me new life.  You have brought me new life."
+
+ "Oh, by George!" I said, "I have forgotten something.  Hasten,
+ Selim, and bring that bottle; you know which and bring me the silver
+ goblets.  I brought this bottle on purpose for this event, which
+ I hoped would come to pass, though often it seemed useless to expect
+ it."
+
+ Selim knew where the bottle was, and he soon returned with it--a
+ bottle of Sillery champagne; and, handing the Doctor a silver
+ goblet brimful of the exhilarating wine, and pouring a small
+ quantity into my own, I said,
+
+ "Dr. Livingstone, to your very good health, sir."
+
+ "And to yours!" he responded, smilingly.
+
+ And the champagne I had treasured for this happy meeting was drunk
+ with hearty good wishes to each other.
+
+ But we kept on talking and talking, and prepared food was being
+ brought to us all that afternoon; and we kept on eating each time
+ it was brought, until I had eaten even to repletion, and the Doctor
+ was obliged to confess that he had eaten enough.  Still, Halimah,
+ the female cook of the Doctor's establishment, was in a state of
+ the greatest excitement.  She had been protruding her head out of
+ the cookhouse to make sure that there were really two white men
+ sitting down in the veranda, when there used to be only one, who
+ would not, because he could not, eat anything; and she had been
+ considerably exercised in her mind about this fact.  She was
+ afraid the Doctor did not properly appreciate her culinary
+ abilities; but now she was amazed at the extraordinary quantity
+ of food eaten, and she was in a state of delightful excitement.
+ We could hear her tongue rolling off a tremendous volume of
+ clatter to the wondering crowds who halted before the kitchen
+ to hear the current of news with which she edified them.  Poor,
+ faithful soul!  While we listened to the noise of her furious
+ gossip, the Doctor related her faithful services, and the
+ terrible anxiety she evinced when the guns first announced
+ the  arrival of another white man in Ujiji; how she had been
+ flying about in a state cf the utmost excitement, from the kitchen
+ into his presence, and out again into the square, asking all sorts
+ of questions; how she was in despair at the scantiness of the
+ general larder and treasury of the strange household; how she
+ was anxious to make up for their poverty by a grand appearance--
+ to make up a sort of Barmecide feast to welcome the white man.
+ "Why," said she, "is he not one of us?  Does he not bring plenty
+ of cloth and beads?  Talk about the Arabs!  Who are they that
+ they should be compared to white men?  Arabs, indeed!"
+
+ The Doctor and I conversed upon many things, especially upon his
+ own immediate troubles, and his disappointments, upon his arrival
+ in Ujiji, when told that all his goods had been sold, and he was
+ reduced to poverty.  He had but twenty cloths or so left of the
+ stock he had deposited with the man called Sherif, the half-caste
+ drunken tailor, who was sent by the Consul in charge of the goods.
+ Besides which he had been suffering from an attack of dysentery,
+ and his condition was most deplorable.  He was but little improved
+ on this day, though he had eaten well, and already began to feel
+ stronger and better.
+
+ This day, like all others, though big with happiness to me, at last
+ was fading away.  While sitting with our faces looking to the east,
+ as Livingstone had been sitting for days preceding my arrival, we
+ noted the dark shadows which crept up above the grove of palms
+ beyond the village, and above the rampart of mountains which we had
+ crossed that day, now looming through the fast approaching
+ darkness; and we listened, with our hearts full of gratitude to
+ the Great Giver of Good and Dispenser of all Happiness, to the
+ sonorous thunder of the surf of the Tanganika, and to the chorus
+ which the night insects sang.  Hours passed, and we were still
+ sitting there with our minds busy upon the day's remarkable events,
+ when I remembered that the traveller had not yet read his letters.
+
+ "Doctor," I said, "you had better read your letters.  I will not
+ keep you up any longer."
+
+ "Yes," he answered, "it is getting late; and I will go and read
+ my friends' letters.  Good-night, and God bless you."
+
+ "Good-night, my dear Doctor; and let me hope that your news will
+ be such as you desire."
+
+ I have now related, by means of my Diary, "How I found Livingstone,"
+ as recorded on the evening of that great day.  I have been averse
+ to reduce it by process of excision and suppression, into a mere
+ cold narrative, because, by so doing, I would be unable to record
+ what feelings swayed each member of the Expedition as well as myself
+ during the days preceding the discovery of the lost traveller, and
+ more especially the day it was the good fortune of both Livingstone
+ and myself to clasp each other's hands in the strong friendship
+ which was born in that hour we thus strangely met.  The aged
+ traveller, though cruelly belied, contrary to all previous expectation,
+ received me as a friend; and the cordial warmth with which he accepted
+ my greeting; the courtesy with which he tendered to me a shelter
+ in his own house; the simple candour of his conversation; graced
+ by unusual modesty of manner, and meekness of spirit, wrought in me
+ such a violent reaction in his favor, that when the parting
+ "good-night" was uttered, I felt a momentary vague fear lest the
+ fulness of joy which I experienced that evening would be diminished
+ by some envious fate, before the morrow's sun should rise above Ujiji.
+
+
+
+ CHAPTER XII.   INTERCOURSE WITH LIVINGSTONE AT UJIJI--
+LIVINGSTONE'S OWN STORY OF HIS JOURNEYS,
+HIS TROUBLES, AND DISAPPOINTMENTS.
+
+ "If there is love between us, inconceivably delicious, and
+ profitable will our intercourse be; if not, your time is lost,
+ and you will only annoy me.  I shall seem to you stupid, and the
+ reputation I have false.  All my good is magnetic, and I educate
+ not by lessons, but by going about my business."--Emerson's
+ 'Representative Men'.
+
+
+ I woke up early next morning with a sudden start.  The room was
+ strange!  It was a house, and not my tent!  Ah, yes! I recollected
+ I had discovered Livingstone, and I was in his house.  I listened,
+ that the knowledge dawning on me might be confirmed by the sound
+ of his voice.  I heard nothing but the sullen roar of the surf.
+
+ I lay quietly in bed.  Bed!  Yes, it was a primitive four-poster,
+ with the leaves of the palm-tree spread upon it instead of down,
+ and horsehair and my bearskin spread over this serving me in place
+ of linen.  I began to put myself under rigid mental cross-examination,
+and to an analyzation of my position.
+
+"What was I sent for?"
+
+"To find Livingstone."
+
+"Have you found him?"
+
+"Yes, of course; am I not in his house?  Whose compass is that
+hanging on a peg there?  Whose clothes, whose boots, are those?
+Who reads those newspapers, those 'Saturday  Reviews' and numbers
+of 'Punch' lying on the floor?"
+
+"Well, what are you going to do now?"
+
+"I shall tell him this morning who sent me, and what brought me
+here.  I will then ask him to write a letter to Mr. Bennett, and
+to give what news he can spare.  I did not come here to rob him of
+his news.  Sufficient for me is it that I have found him.  It is a
+complete success so far.  But it will be a greater one if he gives
+me letters for Mr. Bennett, and an acknowledgment that he has seen
+me."
+
+"Do you think he will do so?"
+
+"Why not?  I have come here to do him a service.  He has no goods.
+I have.  He has no men with him.  I have.  If I do a friendly part
+by  him, will he not do a friendly part by me?  What says the poet?--
+
+         Nor hope to find
+A friend, but who has found a friend in thee.
+All like the purchase; few the price will pay
+And this makes friends such wonders here below.
+
+I have paid the purchase, by coming so far to do him a service.
+But I think, from what I have seen of him last night, that he is
+not such a niggard and misanthrope as I was led to believe.  He
+exhibited considerable emotion, despite the monosyllabic greeting,
+when he shook my hand.  If he were a man to feel annoyance at any
+person coming after him, he would not have received me as he did,
+nor would he ask me to live with him, but he would have surlily
+refused to see me, and told me to mind my own business.  Neither
+does he mind my nationality;
+for 'here,' said he, 'Americans and Englishmen are the same
+people.  We speak the same language and have the same ideas.'
+Just so, Doctor; I agree with you.  Here at least, Americans
+and Englishmen shall be brothers, and, whatever I can do
+for you, you may command me freely."
+
+I dressed myself quietly, intending to take a stroll along the
+Tanganika before the Doctor should rise; opened the door, which
+creaked horribly  on its hinges, and walked out to the veranda.
+
+"Halloa, Doctor!--you up already?  I hope you have slept well? "
+
+"Good-morning, Mr. Stanley!  I am glad to see you.  I hope you
+rested well.  I sat up late reading my  letters.  You have brought
+me good and bad news.  But sit down.  "He made a place for me by
+his side.  "Yes, many of my  friends are dead.  My eldest son has
+met with a sad accident--that is, my boy Tom; my second son, Oswell,
+is at college studying medicine, and is doing well I am told.  Agnes,
+my eldest daughter, has been enjoying herself in a yacht, with `Sir
+Paraffine'  Young and his family.  Sir Roderick, also, is well, and
+expresses a hope that he will soon see me.  You have brought me
+quite a budget."
+
+The man was not an apparition, then, and yesterday's scenes were
+not the result of a dream! and I gazed on him intently, for thus
+I was assured he had not run away, which was the great fear that
+constantly haunted me as I was journeying to Ujiji.
+
+"Now, Doctor," said I, "you are, probably, wondering why I came
+here?"
+
+"It is true," said he; "I have been wondering.  I thought you,
+at first, an emissary of the French Government, in the place of
+Lieutenant Le Saint, who died a few miles above Gondokoro.  I heard
+you had boats, plenty of men, and stores, and I really believed
+you were some French officer, until I saw the American flag; and,
+to tell you the truth, I was rather glad it was so, because I could
+not have talked to him in French; and if he did not know English,
+we had been a pretty pair of white men in Ujiji!  I did not like
+to ask you yesterday, because I thought it was none of my business."
+
+Well," said I, laughing, "for your sake I am glad that I am an
+American, and not a Frenchman, and that we can understand each
+other perfectly without an interpreter.  I see that the Arabs are
+wondering that you, an Englishman, and I, an American, understand
+each other.  We must take care not to tell them that the English
+and Americans have fought, and that there are `Alabama' claims left
+unsettled, and that we have such people as Fenians in America, who
+hate you.  But, seriously, Doctor--now don't be frightened when I
+tell you that I have come after--YOU!"
+
+"After me?"
+
+"Yes."
+
+"How?"
+
+"Well.  You have heard of the `New York Herald?'"
+
+"Oh--who has not heard of that newspaper?"
+
+"Without his father's knowledge or consent, Mr. James Gordon Bennett,
+son of Mr. James Gordon Bennett, the proprietor of the `Herald,' has
+commissioned me to find you--to get whatever news of your discoveries
+you like to give--and to assist you, if I can, with means."
+
+"Young Mr. Bennett told you to come after me, to find me out,
+and help me!  It is no wonder, then, you praised Mr. Bennett so
+much last night."
+
+"I know him--I am proud to say--to be just what I say he is.
+He is an ardent, generous, and true man."
+
+"Well, indeed!  I am very much obliged to him; and it makes me
+feel proud to think that you Americans think so much of me.  You
+have just come in the proper time; for I was beginning to think
+that I should have to beg from the Arabs.  Even they are in want
+of cloth, and there are but few beads in Ujiji.  That fellow Sherif
+has robbed me of all.  I wish I could embody my thanks to Mr. Bennett
+in suitable words; but if I fail to do so, do not, I beg of you,
+believe me the less grateful."
+
+"And now, Doctor, having disposed of this little affair, Ferajji
+shall bring breakfast; if you have no objection."
+
+"You have given me an appetite," he said.
+
+"Halimah is my cook, but she never can tell the difference between
+tea and coffee."
+
+Ferajji, the cook, was ready as usual with excellent tea, and a
+dish of smoking cakes; "dampers," as the Doctor called them.  I
+never did care much for this kind of a cake fried in a pan, but
+they were necessary to the Doctor, who had nearly lost all his
+teeth from the hard fare of Lunda.  He had been compelled to
+subsist on green ears of Indian corn; there was no meat in that
+district; and the effort to gnaw at the corn ears had loosened all
+his teeth.  I preferred the corn scones of Virginia, which, to my
+mind, were the nearest approach to palatable bread obtainable in
+Central Africa.
+
+The Doctor said he had thought me a most luxurious and rich man,
+when he saw my great bath-tub carried on the shoulders of one of
+my men; but he thought me still more luxurious this morning, when
+my knives and forks, and plates, and cups, saucers, silver spoons,
+and silver teapot were brought forth shining and bright, spread on
+a rich Persian carpet, and observed that I was well attended to by
+my yellow and ebon Mercuries.
+
+This was the beginning of our life at Ujiji.  I knew him not as
+a friend before my arrival.  He was only an object to me--a great
+item for a daily newspaper, as much as other subjects in which the
+voracious news-loving public delight in.  I had gone over
+battlefields, witnessed revolutions, civil wars, rebellions,
+emeutes and massacres; stood close to the condemned murderer to
+record his last struggles and last sighs; but never had I been
+called to record anything that moved me so much as this man's woes
+and sufferings, his privations and disappointments, which now were
+poured into my ear.  Verily did I begin to perceive that "the
+Gods above do with just eyes survey the affairs of men."  I began
+to recognize the hand of an overruling and kindly Providence.
+
+The following are singular facts worthy for reflection.  I was,
+commissioned for the duty of discovering Livingstone sometime in
+October, 1869.  Mr. Bennett was ready with the money, and I was
+ready for the journey.  But, observe, reader, that I did not
+proceed directly upon the search mission.  I had many tasks to
+fulfil before proceeding with it, and many thousand miles to
+travel over.  Supposing that I had gone direct to Zanzibar from
+Paris, seven or eight months afterwards, perhaps, I should have
+found myself at Ujiji, but Livingstone would not have been found
+there then; he was on the Lualaba; and I should have had to
+follow him on his devious tracks through the primeval forests of
+Manyuema, and up along the crooked course of the Lualaba for
+hundreds of miles.  The time taken by me in travelling up the
+Nile, back to Jerusalem, then to Constantinople, Southern Russia,
+the Caucasus, and Persia, was employed by Livingstone in fruitful
+discoveries west of the Tanganika.  Again, consider that I arrived
+at Unyanyembe in the latter part of June, and that owing to a war I
+was delayed three months at Unyanyembe, leading a fretful, peevish
+and impatient life.  But while I was thus fretting myself, and
+being delayed by a series of accidents, Livingstone was being forced
+back to Ujiji in the same month.  It took him from June to October
+to march to Ujiji.  Now, in September, I broke loose from the
+thraldom which accident had imposed on me, and hurried southward
+to Ukonongo, then westward to Kawendi, then northward to Uvinza,
+then westward to Ujiji, only about three weeks after the Doctor's
+arrival, to find him resting under the veranda of his house with
+his face turned eastward, the direction from which I was coming.
+Had I gone direct from Paris on the search I might have lost him;
+had I been enabled to have gone direct to Ujiji from Unyanyembe
+I might have lost him.
+
+The days came and went peacefully and happily, under the palms of
+Ujiji.  My companion was improving in health and spirits.  Life
+had been brought back to him; his fading vitality was restored,
+his enthusiasm for his work was growing up again into a height
+that was compelling him to desire to be up and doing.  But what
+could he do, with five men and fifteen or twenty cloths?
+
+"Have you seen the northern head of the Tangannka, Doctor?" I
+asked one day.
+
+"No; I did try to go there, but the Wajiji were doing their best
+to fleece me, as they did both Burton and Speke, and I had not a
+great deal of cloth.  If I had gone to the head of the Tanganika,
+I could not have gone, to Manyuema.  The central line of drainage
+was the most important, and that is the Lualaba.  Before this line
+the question whether there is a connection between the Tanganika
+and the Albert N'Yanza sinks into insignificance.  The great line
+of drainage is the river flowing from latitude 11 degrees south,
+which I followed for over seven degrees northward.  The Chambezi,
+the name given to its most southern extremity, drains a large tract
+of country south of the southernmost source of the Tanganika;
+it must, therefore, be the most important.  I have not the least
+doubt, myself, but that this lake is the Upper Tanganika, and
+the Albert N'Yanza of Baker is the Lower Tanganika, which are
+connected by a river flowing from the upper to the lower.  This
+is my belief, based upon reports of the Arabs, and a test I
+made of the flow with water-plants.  But I really never gave
+it much thought."
+
+"Well, if I were you, Doctor, before leaving Ujiji, I should
+explore it, and resolve the doubts upon the subject; lest,
+after you leave here, you should not return by this way.
+The Royal Geographical Society attach much importance to
+this supposed connection, and declare you are the only man
+who can settle it.  If I can be of any service to you, you
+may command me.  Though I did not come to Africa as an
+explorer, I have a good deal of curiosity upon the subject,
+and should be willing to accompany you.  I have with me about
+twenty men who understand rowing we have plenty of guns, cloth,
+and beads; and if we can get a canoe from the Arabs we can
+manage the thing easily."
+
+"Oh, we can get a canoe from Sayd bin Majid.  This man has been
+very kind to me, and if ever there was an Arab gentleman, he is
+one."
+
+"Then it is settled, is it, that we go?"
+
+"I am ready, whenever you are."
+
+"I am at your command.  Don't you hear my men call you the
+`Great Master,' and me the `Little Master?' It would never
+do for the `Little Master' to command."
+
+By this time Livingstone was becoming known to me.  I defy any
+one to be in his society long without thoroughly fathoming him,
+for in him there is no guile, and what is apparent on the surface
+is the thing that is in him.  I simply write down my own opinion
+of the man as I have seen him, not as he represents himself; as
+I know him to be, not as I have heard of him.  I lived with him
+from the 10th November, 1871, to the 14th March, 1872; witnessed
+his conduct in the camp, and on the march, and my feelings for
+him are those of unqualified admiration.  The camp is the best
+place to discover a man's weaknesses, where, if he is flighty
+or wrong-headed, he is sure to develop his hobbies and weak side.
+I think it possible, however, that Livingstone, with an
+unsuitable companion, might feel annoyance.  I know I should do
+so very readily, if a man's character was of that oblique
+nature that it was an impossibility to travel in his company.
+I have seen men, in whose company I felt nothing but a thraldom,
+which it was a duty to my own self-respect to cast off as soon
+as possible; a feeling of utter incompatibility, with whose
+nature mine could never assimilate.  But Livingstone was a
+character that I venerated, that called forth all my enthusiasm,
+that evoked nothing but sincerest admiration.
+
+Dr. Livingstone is about sixty years old, though after he was
+restored to health he appeared more like a man who had not passed
+his fiftieth year.  His hair has a brownish colour yet, but is here
+and there streaked with grey lines over the temples; his whiskers
+and moustache are very grey.  He shaves his chin daily.  His eyes,
+which are hazel, are remarkably bright; he has a sight keen as a
+hawk's.  His teeth alone indicate the weakness of age; the hard
+fare of Lunda has made havoc in their lines.  His form, which
+soon assumed a stoutish appearance, is a little over the ordinary
+height with the slightest possible bow in the shoulders.  When
+walking he has a firm but heavy tread, like that of an overworked
+or fatigued man.  He is accustomed to wear a naval cap with a
+semicircular peak, by which he has been identified throughout
+Africa.  His dress, when first I saw him, exhibited traces of
+patching and repairing, but was scrupulously clean.
+
+I was led to believe that Livingstone possessed a splenetic,
+misanthropic temper; some have said that he is garrulous, that
+he is demented; that he has utterly changed from the David
+Livingstone whom people knew as the reverend missionary ; that
+he takes no notes or observations but such as those which no other
+person could read but himself; and it was reported, before I
+proceeded to Central Africa, that he was married to an African
+princess.
+
+I respectfully beg to differ with all and each of the above
+statements.  I grant he is not an angel, but he approaches to that
+being as near as the nature of a living man will allow.  I never
+saw any spleen or misanthropy in him--as for being garrulous, Dr.
+Livingstone is quite the reverse: he is reserved, if anything;
+and to the man who says Dr. Livingstone is changed, all I can say
+is, that he never could have known him, for it is notorious that
+the Doctor has a fund of quiet humour, which he exhibits at all
+times whenever he is among friends.  I must also beg leave to
+correct the gentleman who informed me that Livingstone takes
+no notes or observations.  The huge Letts's Diary which I
+carried home to his daughter is full of notes, and there are
+no less than a score of sheets within it filled with observations
+which he took during the last trip he made to Manyuema alone;
+and in the middle of the book there is sheet after sheet,
+column after column, carefully written, of figures alone.
+A large letter which I received from him has been sent to
+Sir Thomas MacLear, and this contains nothing but observations.
+During the four months I was with him, I noticed him every evening
+making most careful notes; and a large tin box that he has with
+him contains numbers of field note-books, the contents of which I
+dare say will see the light some time.  His maps also evince great
+care and industry.  As to the report of his African marriage, it is
+unnecessary to say more than that it is untrue, and it is utterly
+beneath a gentleman to hint at such a thing in connection with the
+name of David Livingstone.
+
+There is a good-natured abandon about Livingstone which was not
+lost on me.  Whenever he began to laugh, there was a contagion
+about it, that compelled me to imitate him.  It was such a laugh
+as Herr Teufelsdrockh's--a laugh of the whole man from head to heel.
+If he told a story, he related it in such a way as to convince one
+of its truthfulness; his face was so lit up by the sly fun it
+contained, that I was sure the story was worth relating, and
+worth listening to.
+
+The wan features which had shocked me at first meeting, the heavy
+step which told of age and hard travel, the grey beard and bowed
+shoulders, belied the man.  Underneath that well-worn exterior
+lay an endless fund of high spirits and inexhaustible humour;
+that rugged frame of his enclosed a young and most exuberant soul.
+Every day I heard innumerable jokes and pleasant anecdotes;
+interesting hunting stories, in which his friends Oswell, Webb,
+Vardon, and Gorden Cumming were almost always the chief actors.
+I was not sure, at first, but this joviality, humour, and
+abundant animal spirits were the result of a joyous hysteria;
+but as I found they continued while I was with him, I am obliged
+to think them natural.
+
+Another thing which specially attracted my attention was his
+wonderfully retentive memory.  If we remember the many years he
+has spent in Africa, deprived of books, we may well think it an
+uncommon memory that can recite whole poems from Byron, Burns,
+Tennyson, Longfellow, Whittier, and Lowell.  The reason of this
+may be found, perhaps, in the fact, that he has lived all his
+life almost, we may say, within himself.  Zimmerman, a great
+student of human nature, says on this subject "The unencumbered
+mind recalls all that it has read, all that pleased the eye,
+and delighted the ear; and reflecting on every idea which
+either observation, or experience, or discourse has produced,
+gains new information by every reflection.  The intellect
+contemplates all the former scenes of life; views by
+anticipation those that are yet to come; and blends all ideas
+of past and future in the actual enjoyment of the present
+moment."  He has lived in a world which revolved inwardly,
+out of which he seldom awoke except to attend to the immediate
+practical necessities of himself and people; then relapsed again
+into the same happy inner world, which he must have peopled with
+his own friends, relations, acquaintances, familiar readings,
+ideas, and associations; so that wherever he might be, or by
+whatsoever he was surrounded, his own world always possessed
+more attractions to his cultured mind than were yielded by
+external circumstances.
+
+The study of Dr. Livingstone would not be complete if we did not
+take the religious side of his character into consideration.  His
+religion is not of the theoretical kind, but it is a constant,
+earnest, sincere practice.  It is neither demonstrative nor loud,
+but manifests itself in a quiet, practical way, and is always at
+work.  It is not aggressive, which sometimes is troublesome, if
+not impertinent.  In him, religion exhibits its loveliest features;
+it governs his conduct not only towards his servants, but towards
+the natives, the bigoted Mohammedans, and all who come in contact
+with him.  Without it, Livingstone, with his ardent temperament,
+his enthusiasm, his high spirit and courage, must have become
+uncompanionable, and a hard master.  Religion has tamed him, and
+made him a Christian gentleman: the crude and wilful have been
+refined and subdued; religion has made him the most companionable
+of men and indulgent of masters--a man whose society is pleasurable.
+
+In Livingstone I have seen many amiable traits.  His gentleness
+never forsakes him; his hopefulness never deserts him.  No
+harassing anxieties, distraction of mind, long separation from home
+and kindred, can make him complain.  He thinks "all will come out
+right at last;" he has such faith in the goodness of Providence.
+The sport of adverse circumstances, the plaything of the miserable
+beings sent to him from Zanzibar--he has been baffled and
+worried, even almost to the grave, yet he will not desert the
+charge imposed upon him by his friend, Sir Roderick Murchison.
+To the stern dictates of duty, alone, has he sacrificed his home
+and ease, the pleasures, refinements, and luxuries of civilized
+life.  His is the Spartan heroism, the inflexibility of the Roman,
+the enduring resolution of the Anglo-Saxon--never to relinquish his
+work, though his heart yearns for home; never to surrender his
+obligations until he can write Finis to his work.
+
+But you may take any point in Dr. Livingstone's character, and
+analyse it carefully, and I would challenge any man to find a
+fault in it.  He is sensitive, I know; but so is any man of a high
+mind and generous nature.  He is sensitive on the point of being
+doubted or being criticised.  An extreme love of truth is one of
+his strongest characteristics, which proves him to be a man of
+strictest principles, and conscientious scruples; being such, he
+is naturally sensitive, and shrinks from any attacks on the
+integrity of his observations, and the accuracy of his reports.
+He is conscious of having laboured in the course of geography and
+science with zeal and industry, to have been painstaking, and as
+exact as circumstances would allow.  Ordinary critics seldom take
+into consideration circumstances, but, utterly regardless of the
+labor expended in obtaining the least amount of geographical
+information in a new land, environed by inconceivable dangers and
+difficulties, such as Central Africa presents, they seem to take
+delight in rending to tatters, and reducing to nil, the fruits of
+long years of labor, by sharply-pointed shafts of ridicule and
+sneers.
+
+Livingstone no doubt may be mistaken in some of his conclusions
+about certain points in the geography of Central Africa, but he
+is not so dogmatic and positive a man as to refuse conviction.
+He certainly demands, when arguments in contra are used in
+opposition to him, higher authority than abstract theory.  His
+whole life is a testimony against its unreliability, and his
+entire labor of years were in vain if theory can be taken in
+evidence against personal observation and patient investigation.
+
+The reluctance he manifests to entertain suppositions,
+possibilities regarding the nature, form, configuration of concrete
+immutable matter like the earth, arises from the fact, that a man
+who commits himself to theories about such an untheoretical subject
+as Central Africa is deterred from bestirring himself to prove them
+by the test of exploration.  His opinion of such a man is, that he
+unfits himself for his duty, that he is very likely to become a
+slave to theory--a voluptuous fancy, which would master him.
+
+It is his firm belief, that a man who rests his sole knowledge of
+the geography of Africa on theory, deserves to be discredited.  It
+has been the fear of being discredited and criticised and so made
+to appear before the world as a man who spent so many valuable
+years in Africa for the sake of burdening the geographical mind
+with theory that has detained him so long in Africa, doing his
+utmost to test the value of the main theory which clung to him,
+and would cling to him until he proved or disproved it.
+
+This main theory is his belief that in the broad and mighty
+Lualaba he has discovered the head waters of the Nile.  His grounds
+for believing this are of such nature and weight as to compel him
+to despise the warning that years are advancing on him, and his
+former iron constitution is failing.  He believes his speculations
+on this point will be verified; he believes he is strong enough
+to pursue his explorations until he can return to his country,
+with the announcement that the Lualaba is none other than the Nile.
+
+On discovering that the insignificant stream called the Chambezi,
+which rises between 10 degrees S. and 12 degrees S., flowed
+westerly, and then northerly through several lakes, now under
+the names of the Chambezi, then as the Luapula, and then as the
+Lualaba, and that it still continued its flow towards the north
+for over 7 degrees, Livingstone became firmly of the opinion that
+the river whose current he followed was the Egyptian Nile.  Failing
+at lat. 4 degrees S. to pursue his explorations further without
+additional supplies, he determined to return to Ujiji to obtain them.
+
+And now, having obtained them, he intends to return to the point
+where he left off work.  He means to follow that great river until
+it is firmly established what name shall eventually be given the
+noble water-way whose course he has followed through so many sick
+toilings and difficulties.  To all entreaties to come home, to all
+the glowing temptations which home and innumerable friends offer,
+he returns the determined answer:--
+
+"No; not until my work is ended."
+
+I have often heard our servants discuss our respective merits.
+"Your master," say my servants to Livingstone's, "is a good man--
+a very good man; he does not beat you, for he has a kind heart;
+but ours--oh! he is sharp--hot as fire"--"mkali sana, kana moto."
+From being hated and thwarted in every possible way by the Arabs
+and half-castes upon first arrival in Ujiji, he has, through
+his uniform kindness and mild, pleasant temper, won all hearts.
+I observed that universal respect was paid to him.  Even
+the Mohammedans never passed his house without calling to pay
+their compliments, and to say, "The blessing of God rest on
+you."  Each Sunday morning he gathers his little flock around him,
+and reads prayers and a chapter from the Bible, in a natural,
+unaffected, and sincere tone; and afterwards delivers a short
+address in the Kisawahili language, about the subject read to them,
+which is listened to with interest and attention.
+
+There is another point in Livingstone's character about which
+readers of his books, and students of his travels, would like to
+know, and that is his ability to withstand the dreadful climate of
+Central Africa, and the consistent energy with which he follows up
+his explorations.  His consistent energy is native to him and to
+his race.  He is a very fine example of the perseverance,
+doggedness, and tenacity which characterise the Anglo-Saxon
+spirit; but his ability to withstand the climate is due not only
+to the happy constitution with which he was born, but to the
+strictly temperate life he has ever led.  A drunkard and a man of
+vicious habits could never have withstood the climate of Central
+Africa.
+
+The second day after my arrival in Ujiji I asked the Doctor if he
+did not feel a desire, sometimes, to visit his country, and take
+a little rest after his six years' explorations; and the answer
+he gave me fully reveals the man.  Said he:
+
+"I should like very much to go home and see my children once
+again, but I cannot bring my heart to abandon the task I have
+undertaken, when it is so nearly completed.  It only requires
+six or seven months more to trace the true source that I have
+discovered with Petherick's branch of the White Nile, or with
+the Albert N'Yanza of Sir Samuel Baker, which is the lake
+called by the natives `Chowambe.'  Why should I go home before
+my task is ended, to have to come back again to do what I can
+very well do now?"
+
+"And why?" I asked, "did you come so far back without finishing
+the task which you say you have got to do?"
+
+"Simply because I was forced.  My men would not budge a step
+forward.  They mutinied, and formed a secret resolution--if I still
+insisted upon going on--to raise a disturbance in the country, and
+after they had effected it to abandon me; in which case I should
+have been killed.  It was dangerous to go any further.  I had
+explored six hundred miles of the watershed, had traced all the
+principal streams which discharge their waters into the central
+line of drainage, but when about starting to explore the last
+hundred miles the hearts of my people failed them, and they set
+about frustrating me in every possible way.  Now, having returned
+seven hundred miles to get a new supply of stores, and another
+escort, I find myself destitute of even the means to live but for
+a few weeks, and sick in mind and body."
+
+Here I may pause to ask any brave man how he would have comported
+himself in such a crisis.  Many would have been in exceeding hurry
+to get home to tell the news of the continued explorations and
+discoveries, and to relieve the anxiety of the sorrowing family
+and friends awaiting their return.  Enough surely had been
+accomplished towards the solution of the problem that had exercised
+the minds of his scientific associates of the Royal Geograpical
+Society.  It was no negative exploration, it was hard, earnest
+labor of years, self-abnegation, enduring patience, and exalted
+fortitude, such as ordinary men fail to exhibit.
+
+Suppose Livingstone had hurried to the coast after he had
+discovered Lake Bangweolo, to tell the news to the geographical
+world; then had returned to discover Moero, and run away again;
+then went back once more only to discover Kamolondo, and to race
+back again.  This would not be in accordance with Livingstone's
+character.  He must not only discover the Chambezi, Lake
+Bangweolo, Luapula River, Lake Moero, Lualaba River, and Lake
+Kamolondo, but he must still tirelessly urge his steps forward to
+put the final completion to the grand lacustrine river system.  Had
+he followed the example of ordinary explorers, he would have been
+running backwards and forwards to tell the news, instead of
+exploring; and he might have been able to write a volume upon the
+discovery of each lake, and earn much money thereby.  They are
+no few months' explorations that form the contents of his books.
+His `Missionary Travels' embraces a period of sixteen years; his
+book on the Zambezi, five years; and if the great traveller lives
+to come home, his third book, the grandest of all, must contain the
+records of eight or nine years.
+
+It is a principle with Livingstone to do well what he undertakes to
+do; and in the consciousness that he is doing it, despite the
+yearning for his home which is sometimes overpowering, he finds,
+to a certain extent, contentment, if not happiness.  To men
+differently constituted, a long residence amongst the savages
+of Africa would be contemplated with horror, yet Livingstone's mind
+can find pleasure and food for philosophic studies.  The wonders of
+primeval nature, the great forests and sublime mountains, the
+perennial streams and sources of the great lakes, the marvels of
+the earth, the splendors of the tropic sky by day and by night--
+all terrestrial and celestial phenomena are manna to a man of
+such self-abnegation and devoted philanthropic spirit.  He can
+be charmed with the primitive simplicity of Ethiop's dusky
+children, with whom he has spent so many years of his life;
+he has a sturdy faith in their capabilities; sees virtue
+in them where others see nothing but savagery; and wherever
+he has gone among them, he has sought to elevate a people
+that were apparently forgotten of God and Christian man.
+
+One night I took out my note-book, and prepared to take down
+from his own lips what he had to say about his travels; and
+unhesitatingly he related his experiences, of which the following
+is a summary:
+
+Dr. David Livingstone left the Island of Zanzibar in March, 1866.
+On the 7th of the following month he departed from Mikindany Bay
+for the interior, with an expedition consisting of twelve Sepoys
+from Bombay, nine men from Johanna, of the Comoro Islands, seven
+liberated slaves, and two Zambezi men, taking them as an
+experiment; six camels, three buffaloes, two mules, and three
+donkeys.  He had thus thirty men with him, twelve of whom, viz.,
+the Sepoys, were to act as guards for the Expedition.  They were
+mostly armed with the Enfield rifles presented to the Doctor by
+the Bombay Government.  The baggage of the expedition consisted
+of ten bales of cloth and two bags of beads, which were to serve
+as the currency by which they would be enabled to purchase the
+necessaries of life in the countries the Doctor intended to visit.
+Besides the cumbrous moneys, they carried several boxes of
+instruments, such as chronometers, air thermometers, sextant,
+and artificial horizon, boxes containing clothes, medicines,
+and personal necessaries.  The expedition travelled up the left
+bank of the Rovuma River, a rout/e/ as full of difficulties as
+any that could be chosen.  For miles Livingstone and his party
+had to cut their way with their axes through the dense and
+almost impenetrable jungles which lined the river's banks.
+The road was a mere footpath, leading in the most erratic fashion
+into and through the dense vegetation, seeking the easiest outlet
+from it without any regard to the course it ran.  The pagazis
+were able to proceed easily enough; but the camels, on account
+of their enormous height, could not advance a step without the
+axes of the party clearing the way.  These tools of foresters
+were almost always required; but the advance of the expedition
+was often retarded by the unwillingness of the Sepoys and
+Johanna men to work.
+
+Soon after the departure of the expedition from the coast,
+the murmurings and complaints of these men began, and upon every
+occasion and at every opportunity they evinced a decided
+hostility to an advance.  In order to prevent the progress of the
+Doctor, and in hopes that it would compel him to return to the
+coast, these men so cruelly treated the animals that before long
+there was not one left alive.  But as this scheme failed, they set
+about instigating the natives against the white men, whom they
+accused most wantonly of strange practices.  As this plan was most
+likely to succeed, and as it was dangerous to have such men with
+him, the Doctor arrived at the conclusion that it was best to
+discharge them, and accordingly sent the Sepoys back to the coast;
+but not without having first furnished them with the means of
+subsistence on their journey to the coast.  These men were such a
+disreputable set that the natives spoke of them as the Doctor's
+slaves.  One of their worst sins was the custom of giving their
+guns and ammunition to carry to the first woman or boy they met,
+whom they impressed for that purpose by such threats or promises
+as they were totally unable to perform, and unwarranted in making.
+An hour's marching was sufficient to fatigue them, after which
+they lay down on the road to bewail their hard fate, and concoct
+new schemes to frustrate their leader's purposes.  Towards night
+they generally made their appearance at the camping-ground with
+the looks of half-dead men. Such men naturally made but a poor
+escort; for, had the party been attacked by a wandering tribe
+of natives of any strength, the Doctor could have made no defence,
+and no other alternative would have been left to him but to
+surrender and be ruined.
+
+The Doctor and his little party arrived on the 18th July, 1866,
+at a village belonging to a chief of the Wahiyou, situate eight
+days' march south of the Rovuma, and overlooking the watershed
+of the Lake Nyassa.  The territory lying between the Rovuma River
+and this Wahiyou village was an uninhabited wilderness, during
+the transit of which Livingstone and his expedition suffered
+considerably from hunger and desertion of men.
+
+Early in August, 1866, the Doctor came to the country of Mponda,
+a chief who dwelt near the Lake Nyassa.  On the road thither, two
+of the liberated slaves deserted him.  Here also, Wekotani, a
+protege of the Doctor, insisted upon his discharge, alleging as
+an excuse--an excuse which the Doctor subsequently found to be
+untrue--that he had found his brother.  He also stated that his
+family lived on the east side of the Nyassa Lake.  He further
+stated that Mponda's favourite wife was his sister.  Perceiving
+that Wekotani was unwilling to go with him further, the Doctor
+took him to Mponda, who now saw and heard of him for the first
+time, and, having furnished the ungrateful boy with enough cloth
+and beads to keep him until his "big brother" should call for him,
+left him with the chief, after first assuring himself that he
+would receive honourable treatment from him.  The Doctor also
+gave Wekotanti writing-paper--as he could read and write, being
+accomplishments acquired at Bombay, where he had been put to
+school--so that, should he at any time feel disposed, he might
+write to his English friends, or to himself.  The Doctor further
+enjoined him not to join in any of the slave raids usually made
+by his countrymen, the men of Nyassa, on their neighbours.  Upon
+finding that his application for a discharge was successful,
+Wekotani endeavoured to induce Chumah, another protege of the
+Doctor's, and a companion, or chum, of Wekotani, to leave the
+Doctor's service and proceed with him, promising, as a bribe,
+a wife and plenty of pombe from his "big brother."  Chumah, upon
+referring the matter to the Doctor, was advised not to go, as he
+(the Doctor) strongly suspected that Wekotani wanted only to make
+him his slave.  Chumah wisely withdrew from his tempter.  From
+Mponda's, the Doctor proceeded to the heel of the Nyassa, to the
+village of a Babisa chief, who required medicine for a skin
+disease.  With his usual kindness, he stayed at this chief's
+village to treat his malady.
+
+While here, a half-caste Arab arrived from the western shore of the
+lake, and reported that he had been plundered by a band of Mazitu,
+at a place which the Doctor and Musa, chief of the Johanna men,
+were very well aware was at least 150 miles north-north-west of
+where they were then stopping.  Musa, however, for his own reasons
+--which will appear presently--eagerly listened to the Arab's tale,
+and gave full credence to it.  Having well digested its horrible
+details, he came to the Doctor to give him the full benefit of what
+he had heard with such willing ears.  The traveller patiently
+listened to the narrative, which lost nothing of its portentous
+significance through Musa's relation, and then asked Musa if he
+believed it.  "Yes," answered Musa, readily; "he tell me true,
+true.  I ask him good, and he tell me true, true."  The Doctor,
+however, said he did not believe it, for the Mazitu would not have
+been satisfied with merely plundering a man, they would have
+murdered him; but suggested, in order to allay the fears of his
+Moslem subordinate, that they should both proceed to the chief
+with whom they were staying, who, being a sensible man, would be
+able to advise them as to the probability or improbability of the
+tale being correct.  Together, they proceeded to the Babisa chief,
+who, when he had heard the Arab's story, unhesitatingly denounced
+the Arab as a liar, and his story without the least foundation in
+fact; giving as a reason that, if the Mazitu had been lately in
+that vicinity, he should have heard of it soon enough.
+
+But Musa broke out with "No, no, Doctor; no, no, no; I no want to
+go to Mazitu.  I no want Mazitu to kill me.  I want to see my
+father, my mother, my child, in Johanna.  I want no Mazitu."
+These are Musa's words _ipsissima verba_.
+
+To which the Doctor replied, "I don't want the Mazitu to kill me
+either; but, as you are afraid of them, I promise to go straight
+west until we get far past the beat of the Mazitu."
+
+Musa was not satisfied, but kept moaning and sorrowing, saying,
+"If we had two hundred guns with us I would go; but our small
+party of men they will attack by night, and kill all."
+
+The Doctor repeated his promise, "But I will not go near them;
+I will go west."
+
+As soon as he turned his face westward, Musa and the Johanna men
+ran away in a body.
+
+The Doctor says, in commenting upon Musa's conduct, that he felt
+strongly tempted to shoot Musa and another ringleader, but was,
+nevertheless, glad that he did not soil his hands with their vile
+blood.  A day or two afterwards, another of his men--Simon Price by
+name--came to the Doctor with the same tale about the Mazitu, but,
+compelled by the scant number of his people to repress all such
+tendencies to desertion and faint-heartedness, the Doctor silenced
+him at once, and sternly forbade him to utter the name of the
+Mazitu any more.
+
+Had the natives not assisted him, he must have despaired of ever
+being able to penetrate the wild and unexplored interior which he
+was now about to tread.  "Fortunately," as the Doctor says with
+unction, "I was in a country now, after leaving the shores of
+Nyassa, which the foot of the slave-trader has not trod; it was a
+new and virgin land, and of course, as I have always found in such
+cases, the natives were really good and hospitable, and for very
+small portions of cloth my baggage was conveyed from village to
+village by them."  In many other ways the traveller, in his
+extremity, was kindly treated by the yet unsophisticated and
+innocent natives.
+
+On leaving this hospitable region in the early part of December,
+1866, the Doctor entered a country where the Mazitu had exercised
+their customary marauding propensities.  The land was swept clean
+of provisions and cattle, and the people had emigrated to other
+countries, beyond the bounds of those ferocious plunderers.
+Again the Expedition was besieged by pinching hunger from which
+they suffered; they had recourse to the wild fruits which some
+parts of the country furnished.  At intervals the condition of
+the hard-pressed band was made worse by the heartless desertion
+of some of its members, who more than once departed with the
+Doctor's personal kit, changes of clothes, linen, &c.  With more
+or less misfortunes constantly dogging his footsteps, he traversed
+in safety the countries of the Babisa, Bobemba, Barungu, Ba-ulungu,
+and Lunda.
+
+In the country of Lunda lives the famous Cazembe, who was first
+made known to Europeans by Dr. Lacerda, the Portuguese traveller.
+Cazembe is a most intelligent prince; he is a tall, stalwart man,
+who wears a peculiar kind of dress, made of crimson print, in the
+form of a prodigious kilt.  In this state dress, King Cazembe
+received Dr. Livingstone, surrounded by his chiefs and body-guards.
+A chief, who had been deputed by the King and elders to discover
+all about the white man, then stood up before the assembly, and
+in a loud voice gave the result of the inquiry he had instituted.
+He had heard that the white man had come to look for waters,
+for rivers, and seas; though he could not understand what the
+white man could want with such things, he had no doubt that the
+object was good.  Then Cazembe asked what the Doctor proposed
+doing, and where he thought of going.  The Doctor replied that
+he had thought of proceeding south, as he had heard of lakes
+and rivers being in that direction.  Cazembe asked, "What can you
+want to go there for?  The water is close here.  There is plenty
+of large water in this neighbourhood."  Before breaking up the
+assembly, Cazembe gave orders to let the white man go where he
+would through his country undisturbed and unmolested.  He was the
+first Englishman he had seen, he said, and he liked him.
+
+Shortly after his introduction to the King, the Queen entered the
+large house, surrounded by a body-guard of Amazons with spears.
+She was a fine, tall, handsome young woman, and evidently thought
+she was about to make an impression upon the rustic white man, for
+she had clothed herself after a most royal fashion, and was armed
+with a ponderous spear.  But her appearance--so different from what
+the Doctor had imagined--caused him to laugh, which entirely
+spoiled the effect intended; for the laugh of the Doctor was so
+contagious, that she herself was the first to imitate it, and the
+Amazons, courtier-like, followed suit.  Much disconcerted by this,
+the Queen ran back, followed by her obedient damsels--a retreat
+most undignified and unqueenlike, compared with her majestic advent
+into the Doctor's presence.  But Livingstone will have much to say
+about his reception at this court, and about this interesting King
+and Queen; and who can so well relate the scenes he witnessed, and
+which belong exclusively to him, as he himself?
+
+Soon after his arrival in the country of Lunda, or Londa, and
+before he had entered the district ruled over by Cazembe, he had
+crossed a river called the Chambezi, which was quite an important
+stream.  The similarity of the name with that large and noble
+river south, which will be for ever connected with his name, misled
+Livingstone at that time, and he, accordingly, did not pay to it
+the attention it deserved, believing that the Chambezi was but the
+head-waters of the Zambezi, and consequently had no bearing or
+connection with the sources of the river of Egypt, of which he was
+in search.  His fault was in relying too implicitly upon the
+correctness of Portuguese information.  This error it cost him
+many months of tedious labour and travel to rectify.
+
+From the beginning of 1867--the time of his arrival at Cazembe's--
+till the middle of March, 1869--the time of his arrival at Ujiji--
+he was mostly engaged in correcting the errors and misrepresentations
+of the Portuguese travellers.  The Portuguese, in speaking of the
+River Chambezi, invariably spoke of it as "our own Zambezi,"--
+that is, the Zambezi which flows through the Portuguese
+possessions of the Mozambique.  "In going to Cazembe from
+Nyassa," said they, "you will cross our own Zambezi."  Such
+positive and reiterated information--given not only orally, but
+in their books and maps--was naturally confusing.  When the Doctor
+perceived that what he saw and what they described were at
+variance, out of a sincere wish to be correct, and lest he might
+have been mistaken himself, he started to retravel the ground he
+had travelled before.  Over and over again he traversed the several
+countries watered by the several rivers of the complicated water
+system, like an uneasy spirit.  Over and over again he asked the
+same questions from the different peoples he met, until he was
+obliged to desist, lest they might say, "The man is mad; he has
+got water on the brain!"
+
+But his travels and tedious labours in Lunda and the adjacent
+countries have established beyond doubt--first, that the Chambezi
+is a totally distinct river from the Zambezi of the Portuguese;
+and, secondly, that the Chambezi, starting from about latitude
+11 degrees south, is no other than the most southerly feeder of
+the great Nile; thus giving that famous river a length of over
+2,000 miles of direct latitude; making it, second to the
+Mississippi, the longest river in the world.  The real and true
+name of the Zambezi is Dombazi.  When Lacerda and his Portuguese
+successors, coming to Cazembe, crossed the Chambezi, and heard
+its name, they very naturally set it down as "our own Zambezi,"
+and, without further inquiry, sketched it as running in that
+direction.
+
+During his researches in that region, so pregnant in discoveries,
+Livingstone came to a lake lying north-east of Cazembe, which the
+natives call Liemba, from the country of that name which bordered
+it on the east and south.  In tracing the lake north, he found it
+to be none other than the Tanganika, or the south-eastern extremity
+of it, which looks, on the Doctor's map, very much like an outline
+of Italy.  The latitude of the southern end of this great.body of
+water is about 8 degrees 42 minutes south, which thus gives it a
+length, from north to south, of 360 geographical miles.  From the
+southern extremity of the Tanganika he crossed Marungu, and came
+in sight of Lake Moero.  Tracing this lake, which is about sixty
+miles in length, to its southern head, he found a river, called
+the Luapula, entering it from that direction.  Following the Luapula
+south, he found it issue from the large lake of Bangweolo, which
+is nearly as large in superficial area as the Tanganika.  In
+exploring for the waters which discharged themselves into the
+lake, he found that by far the most important of these feeders
+was the Chambezi; so that he had thus traced the Chambezi
+from its source to Lake Bangweolo, and the issue from its northern
+head, under the name of Luapula, and found it enter Lake Moero.
+Again he returned to Cazembe's, well satisfied that the river
+running north through three degrees of latitude could
+not be the river running south under the name of Zambezi, though
+there might be a remarkable resemblance in their names.
+
+At Cazembe's he found an old white-bearded half-caste named
+Mohammed bin Sali, who was kept as a kind of prisoner at large by
+the King because of certain suspicious circumstances attending his
+advent and stay in the country.  Through Livingstone's influence
+Mohammed bin Sali obtained his release.  On the road to Ujiji he
+had bitter cause to regret having exerted himself in the
+half-caste's behalf.  He turned out to be a most ungrateful wretch,
+who poisoned the minds of the Doctor's few followers, and
+ingratiated himself with them by selling the favours of his
+concubines to them, by which he reduced them to a kind of bondage
+under him.  The Doctor was deserted by all but two, even faithful
+Susi and Chumah deserted him for the service of Mohammed bin Sali.
+But they soon repented, and returned to their allegiance.  From
+the day he had the vile old man in his company manifold and
+bitter misfortunes followed the Doctor up to his arrival at
+Ujiji in March, 1869.
+
+From the date of his arrival until the end of June, 1869, he
+remained at Ujiji, whence he dated those letters which, though the
+outside world still doubted his being alive, satisfied the minds of
+the Royal Geographical people, and his intimate friends, that he
+still existed, and that Musa'a tale was the false though ingenious
+fabrication of a cowardly deserter.  It was during this time that
+the thought occurred to him of sailing around the Lake Tanganika,
+but the Arabs and natives were so bent upon fleecing him that, had
+he undertaken it, the remainder or his goods would not have enabled
+him to explore the central line of drainage, the initial point of
+which he found far south of Cazembe's in about latitude 11 degrees,
+in the river called Chambezi.
+
+In the days when tired Captain Burton was resting in Ujiji,
+after his march from the coast near Zanzibar, the land to which
+Livingstone, on his departure from Ujiji, bent his steps was
+unknown to the Arabs save by vague report.  Messrs. Burton and
+Speke never heard of it, it seems.  Speke, who was the geographer
+of Burton's Expedition, heard of a place called Urua, which he
+placed on his map, according to the general direction indicated by
+the Arabs; but the most enterprising of the Arabs, in their search
+after ivory, only touched the frontiers of Rua, as, the natives
+and Livingstone call it; for Rua is an immense country, with a
+length of six degrees of latitude, and as yet an undefined breadth
+from east to west.
+
+At the end of June, 1869, Livingstone quitted Ujiji and crossed
+over to Uguhha, on the western shore, for his last and greatest
+series of explorations; the result of which was the further
+discovery of a lake of considerable magnitude connected with Moero
+by the large river called the Lualaba, and which was a
+continuation of the chain of lakes he had previously discovered.
+
+From the port of Uguhha he set off, in company with a body of
+traders, in an almost direct westerly course, for the country of
+Urua.  Fifteen days' march brought them to Bambarre, the first
+important ivory depot in Manyema, or, as the natives pronounce it,
+Manyuema.  For nearly six months he was detained at Bambarre from
+ulcers in the feet, which discharged bloody ichor as soon as he
+set them on the ground.  When recovered, he set off in a northerly
+direction, and after several days came to a broad lacustrine river,
+called the Lualaba, flowing northward and westward, and in some
+places southward, in a most confusing way.  The river was from one
+to three miles broad.  By exceeding pertinacity he contrived to
+follow its erratic course, until he saw the Lualaba enter the narrow,
+long lake of Kamolondo, in about latitude 6 degrees 30 minutes.
+Retracing this to the south, he came to the point where he had
+seen the Luapula enter Lake Moero.
+
+One feels quite enthusiastic when listening to Livingstone's
+description of the beauties of Moero scenery.  Pent in on all sides
+by high mountains, clothed to the edges with the rich vegetation
+of the tropics, the Moero discharges its superfluous waters through
+a deep rent in the bosom of the mountains.  The impetuous and grand
+river roars through the chasm with the thunder of a cataract, but
+soon after leaving its confined and deep bed it expands into the
+calm and broad Lualaba, stretching over miles of ground.  After
+making great bends west and south-west, and then curving northward,
+it enters Kamolondo.  By the natives it is called the Lualaba, but
+the Doctor, in order to distinguish it from other rivers of the same
+name, has given it the name of "Webb's River," after Mr. Webb,
+the wealthy proprietor of Newstead Abbey, whom the Doctor
+distinguishes as one of his oldest and most consistent friends.
+Away to the south-west from Kamolondo is another large lake, which
+discharges its waters by the important River Loeki, or Lomami,
+into the great Lualaba.  To this lake, known as Chebungo by the
+natives, Dr. Livingstone has given the name of "Lincoln," to be
+hereafter distinguished on maps and in books as Lake Lincoln,
+in memory of Abraham Lincoln, our murdered President.  This was
+done from the vivid impression produced on his mind by hearing
+a portion of his inauguration speech read from an English pulpit,
+which related to the causes that induced him to issue his
+Emancipation Proclamation, by which memorable deed 4,000,000 of
+slaves were for ever freed.  To the memory of the man whose
+labours on behalf of the negro race deserves the commendation of
+all good men, Livingstone has contributed a monument more durable
+than brass or stone.
+
+Entering Webb's River from the south-south-west, a little north
+of Kamolondo, is a large river called Lufira, but the streams,
+that discharge themselves from the watershed into the Lualaba are
+so numerous that the Doctor's map would not contain them, so he has
+left all out except the most important.  Continuing his way north,
+tracing the Lualaba through its manifold and crooked curves as far
+as latitude 4 degrees south, he came to where he heard of another
+lake, to the north, into which it ran.  But here you may come to
+a dead halt, and read what lies beyond this spot thus .  .  .  .
+This was the furthermost point, whence he was compelled to return
+on the weary road to Ujiji, a distance of 700 miles.
+
+In this brief sketch of Dr. Livingstone's wonderful travels it is
+to be hoped the most superficial reader, as well as the student of
+geography, comprehends this grand system of lakes connected
+together by Webb's River.  To assist him, let him glance at the
+map accompanying this book.  He will then have a fair idea of what
+Dr. Livingstone has been doing during these long years, and what
+additions he has made to the study of African geography.  That
+this river, distinguished under several titles, flowing from one
+lake into another in a northerly direction, with all its great
+crooked bends and sinuosities, is the Nile--the true Nile--the
+Doctor has not the least doubt.  For a long time he entertained
+great scepticism, because of its deep bends and curves west,
+and south-west even; but having traced it from its head waters,
+the Chambezi, through 7 degrees of latitude--that is, from
+11 degrees S. to lat. 4 degrees N.--he has been compelled to come
+to the conclusion that it can be no other river than the Nile.
+He had thought it was the Congo; but has discovered the sources
+of the Congo to be the Kassai and the Kwango, two rivers which
+rise on the western side of the Nile watershed, in about the
+latitude of Bangweolo; and he was told of another river called
+the Lubilash, which rose from the north, and ran west.  But the
+Lualaba, the Doctor thinks, cannot be the Congo, from its great
+size and body, and from its steady and continued flow northward
+through a broad and extensive valley, bounded by enormous
+mountains westerly and easterly.  The altitude of the most
+northerly point to which the Doctor traced the wonderful river
+was a little in excess of 2,000 feet; so that, though Baker
+makes out his lake to be 2,700 feet above the sea, yet the
+Bahr Ghazal, through which Petherick's branch of the White Nile
+issues into the Nile, is but 2,000 feet; in which case there is
+a possibility that the Lualaba may be none other than Petherick's
+branch.
+
+It is well known that trading stations for ivory have been
+established for about 500 miles up Petherick's branch.  We must
+remember this fact when told that Gondokoro, in lat. 4 degrees N.,
+is 2,000 feet above the sea, and lat. 4 degrees S., where the
+halt was made, is only a little over 2,000 feet above the sea.
+That the two rivers said to be 2,000 feet above the sea, separated
+from each other by 8 degrees of latitude, are one and the same
+river, may among some men be regarded as a startling statement.
+But we must restrain mere expressions of surprise, and take
+into consideration that this mighty and broad Lualaba is a
+lacustrine river broader than the Mississippi; that at intervals
+the body of water forms extensive lakes; then, contracting into
+a broad river, it again forms a lake, and so on, to lat. 4 degrees;
+and even beyond this point the Doctor hears of a large lake again
+north.
+
+We must wait also until the altitudes of the two rivers, the
+Lualaba, where the Doctor halted, and the southern point on the
+Bahr Ghazal, where Petherick has been, are known with perfect
+accuracy.
+
+Now, for the sake of argument, suppose we give this nameless lake
+a length of 6 degrees of latitude, as it may be the one discovered
+by Piaggia, the Italian traveller, from which Petherick's branch
+of the White Nile issues out through reedy marshes, into the Bahr
+Ghazal, thence into the White Nile, south of Gondokoro.  By this
+method we can suppose the rivers one; for if the lake extends
+over so many degrees of latitude, the necessity of explaining the
+differences of altitude that must naturally exist between two
+points of a river 8 degrees of latitude apart, would be obviated.
+
+Also, Livingstone's instruments for observation and taking
+altitudes may have been in error; and this is very likely to
+have been the case, subjected as they have been to rough handling
+during nearly six years of travel.  Despite the apparent
+difficulty of the altitude, there is another strong reason for
+believing Webb's River, or the Lualaba, to be the Nile.  The
+watershed of this river, 600 miles of which Livingstone has
+travelled, is drained from a valley which lies north and south
+between lofty eastern and western ranges.
+
+This valley, or line of drainage, while it does not receive the
+Kassai and the Kwango, receives rivers flowing from a great
+distance west, for instance, the important tributaries Lufira
+and Lomami, and large rivers from the east, such as the Lindi
+and Luamo; and, while the most intelligent Portuguese travellers
+and traders state that the Kassai, the Kwango, and Lubilash are
+the head waters of the Congo River, no one has yet started the
+supposition that the grand river flowing north, and known by
+the natives as the Lualaba, is the Congo.
+
+This river may be the Congo, or, perhaps, the Niger.  If the
+Lualaba is only 2,000 feet above the sea, and the Albert N'Yanza
+2,700 feet, the Lualaba cannot enter that lake.  If the Bahr Ghazal
+does not extend by an arm for eight degrees above Gondokoro, then
+the Lualaba cannot be the Nile.  But it would be premature to
+dogmatise on the subject.  Livingstone will clear up the point
+himself; and if he finds it to be the Congo, will be the first to
+admit his error.
+
+Livingstone admits the Nile sources have not been found, though he
+has traced the Lualaba through seven degrees of latitude flowing
+north; and, though he has not a particle of doubt of its being the
+Nile, not yet can the Nile question be said to be resolved and
+ended.  For two reasons:
+
+1.  He has heard of the existence of four fountains, two of which
+gave birth to a river flowing north, Webb's River, or the Lualaba,
+and to a river flowing south, which is the Zambezi.  He has
+repeatedly heard of these fountains from the natives.  Several
+times he has been within 100 and 200 miles from them, but something
+always interposed to prevent his going to see them.  According to
+those who have seen them, they rise on either side of a mound or
+level, which contains no stones.  Some have called it an ant-hill.
+One of these fountains is said to be so large that a man, standing
+on one side, cannot be seen from the other.  These fountains must
+be discovered, and their position taken.  The Doctor does not suppose
+them to be south of the feeders of Lake Bangweolo.  In his letter to
+the 'Herald' he says "These four full-grown gushing fountains,
+rising so near each other, and giving origin to four large rivers,
+answer in a certain degree to the description given of the
+unfathomable fountains of the Nile, by the secretary of Minerva,
+in the city of Sais, in Egypt, to the father of all travellers--
+Herodotus."
+
+For the information of such readers as may not have the original
+at hand, I append the following from Cary's translation of
+Herodotus: <II.28>
+
+<Jul 2001 The History of Herodotus V1 by Herodotus/ Macaulay
+[1hofhxxx.xxx]2707>
+
+***
+  With respect to the sources of the Nile, no man of all the
+  Egyptians, Libyans, or Grecians, with whom I have conversed,
+  ever pretended to know anything, except the registrar* of Minerva's
+
+<*the secretary of the treasury of the goddess Neith, or Athena
+as Herodotus calls her:
+ho grammatiste:s to:n hiro:n xre:mato:n te:s Athe:naie:s>
+
+  treasury at Sais, in Egypt.  He, indeed, seemed to be trifling
+  with me when he said he knew perfectly well; yet his account was
+  as follows: "That there are two mountains, rising into a sharp
+  peak, situated between the city of Syene, in Thebais, and
+  Elephantine.  The names of these mountains are the one Crophi,
+  the other Mophi; that the sources of the Nile, which are bottomless,
+  flow from between these mountains and that half of the water flows
+  over Egypt and to the north, the other half over Ethiopia and the
+  south.  That the fountains of the Nile are bottomless, he said,
+  Psammitichus, king of Egypt, proved by experiment: for, having
+  caused a line to be twisted many thousand fathoms in length, he
+  let it down, but could not find a bottom."  Such, then, was the
+  opinion the registrar gave, if, indeed, he spoke the real truth;
+  proving, in my opinion, that there are strong whirlpools and an
+  eddy here, so that the water beating against the rocks, a
+  sounding-line, when let down, cannot reach the bottom.  I was
+  unable to learn anything more from any one else.  But thus much
+  I learnt by carrying my researches as far as possible, having gone
+  and made my own observations as far as Elephantine, and beyond
+  that obtaining information from hearsay.  As one ascends the river,
+  above the city of Elephantine, the country is steep; here,
+  therefore; it is necessary to attach a rope on both sides of a boat,
+  as one does with an ox in a plough, and so proceed; but if
+  the rope should happen to break, the boat is carried away by the
+  force of the stream.  This kind of country lasts for a four-days'
+  passage, and the Nile here winds as much as the Maeander.  There
+  are twelve schoeni, which it is necessary to sail through in
+  this manner; and after that you will come to a level plain, where
+  the Nile flows round an island; its name is Tachompso.  Ethiopians
+  inhabit the country immediately above Elephantine, and one half
+  of the island; the other half is inhabited by Egyptians.  Near to
+  this island lies a vast lake, on the borders of which Ethiopian
+  nomades dwell.  After sailing through this lake you will come to
+  the channel of the Nile, which flows into it: then you will have
+  to land and travel forty days by the side of the river, for sharp
+  rocks rise in the Nile, and there are many sunken ones, through
+  which it is not possible to navigate a boat.  Having passed this
+  country in the forty days, you must go on board another boat, and
+  sail for twelve days; and then you will arrive at a large city,
+  called Meroe; this city is said to be the capital of all
+  Ethiopia.  The inhabitants worship no other gods than Jupiter and
+  Bacchus; but these they honour with great magnificence.  They
+  have also an oracle of Jupiter; and they make war whenever that
+  god bids them by an oracular warning, and against whatever
+  country he bids them.  Sailing from this city, you will arrive at
+  the country of the Automoli, in a space of time equal to that
+  which you took in coming from Elephantine to the capital of the
+  Ethiopians.  These Automoli are called by the name of Asmak,
+  which, in the language of Greece, signifies "those that stand at
+  the left hand of the king."  These, to the number of two hundred and
+  forty thousand of the Egyptian war-tribe, revolted to the
+  Ethiopians on the following occasion.  In the reign of King
+  Psammitichus garrisons were stationed at Elephantine against the
+  Ethiopians, and another at the Pelusian Daphnae against the
+  Arabians and Syrians, and another at Marea against Libya; and even
+  in my time garrisons of the Persians are stationed in the same
+  places as they were in the time of Psammitichus, for they
+  maintain guards at Elephantine and Daphnae.  Now, these Egyptians,
+  after they had been on duty three years, were not relieved;
+  therefore, having consulted together and come to an unanimous
+  resolution, they all revolted from Psammitichus, and went to
+  Ethiopia.  Psammitichus, hearing of this, pursued them; and when
+  he overtook them he entreated them by many arguments, and adjured
+  them not to forsake the gods of their fathers, and their
+  children and wives But one of them is reported to have uncovered
+  [        ] and to have said, that wheresoever these were there they
+
+<<"which it is said that one of them pointed to his privy member and
+said that wherever this was, there would they have both children and
+wives"-- Macaulay tr.; published edition censors>>
+
+  should find both children and wives."  These men, when they arrived
+  in Ethiopia, offered their services to the king of the Ethiopians,
+  who made them the following recompense.  There were certain
+  Ethiopians disaffected towards him; these he bade them expel,
+  and take possession of their land.  By the settlement of these men
+  among the Ethiopians, the Ethiopians became more civilized, and
+  learned the manners of the Egyptians.
+
+  Now, for a voyage and land journey of four months, the Nile is
+  known, in addition to the part f the stream that is in Egypt; for,
+  upon computation, so many months are known to be spent by a
+  person who travels from Elephantine to the Automoli.  This river
+  flows from the west and the setting of the sun; but beyond this no
+  one is able to speak with certainty, for the rest of the country
+  is desert by reason of the excessive heat.  But I have heard the
+  following account from certain Cyrenaeans, who say that they went
+  to the oracle of Ammon, and had a conversation with Etearchus, King
+  of the Ammonians, and that, among other subjects, they happened to
+  discourse about the Nile--that nobody knew its sources; whereupon
+  Etearchus said that certain Nasamonians once came to him--this
+  nation is Lybian, and inhabits the Syrtis, and the country for no
+  great distance eastward of the Syrtis--and that when these
+  Nasamonians arrived, and were asked if they could give any
+  further formation touching the deserts of Libya, they answered,
+  that there were some daring youths amongst them, sons of powerful
+  men; and that they, having reached man's estate, formed many
+  other extravagant plans, and, moreover, chose five of their number
+  by lot to explore the deserts of Libya, to see if they could make
+  any further discovery than those who had penetrated the farthest.
+  (For, as respects the parts of Libya along the Northern Sea,
+  beginning from Egypt to the promontory of Solois, where is the
+  extremity of Libya, Libyans and various nations of Libyans reach
+  all along it, except those parts which are occupied by Grecians
+  and Phoenicians; but as respects the parts above the sea, and
+  those nations which reach down to the sea, in the upper parts
+  Libya is infested by wild beasts; and all beyond that is sand,
+  dreadfully short of water, and utterly desolate.)  They further
+  related, "that when the young men deputed by their companions
+  set out, well furnished with water and provisions, they passed
+  first through the inhabited country; and having traversed this,
+  they came to the region infested by wild beasts; and after this
+  they crossed the desert, making their way towards the west; and
+  when they had traversed much sandy ground, during a journey of
+  many days, they at length saw some trees growing in a plain; and
+  that they approached and began to gather the fruit that grew on
+  the trees; and while they were gathering, some diminutive men,
+  less than men of middle stature, came up, and having seized them
+  carried them away; and that the Nasamonians did not at all understand
+  their language, nor those who carried them off the language of
+  the Nasamonians.  However, they conducted them through vast
+  morasses, and when they had passed these, they came to a city in
+  which all the inhabitants were of the same size as their conductors,
+  and black in colour: and by the city flowed a great river, running
+  from the west to the east, and that crocodiles were seen in it."
+  Thus far I have set forth the account of Etearchus the Ammonian;
+  to which may be added, as the Cyrenaeans assured me, "that he said
+  the Nasamonians all returned safe to their own country, and that
+  the men whom they came to were all necromancers."  Etearchus also
+  conjectured that this river, which flows by their city, is the Nile;
+  and reason so evinces: for the Nile flows from Libya, and intersects
+  it in the middle; and (as I conjecture, inferring things unknown
+  from things known) it sets out from a point corresponding with the
+  Ister.  For the Ister, beginning from the Celts, and the city of
+  Pyrene, divides Europe in its course; but the Celts are beyond
+  the pillars of Hercules, and border on the territories of the
+  Cynesians, who lie in the extremity of Europe to the westward;
+  and the Ister terminates by flowing through all Europe into the
+  Euxine Sea, where a Milesian colony is settled in Istria.  Now
+  the Ister, as it flows through a well-peopled country, is generally
+  known; but no one is able to speak about the sources of the Nile,
+  because Libya, through which it flows, is uninhabited and desolate.
+  Respecting this stream, therefore, as far as I was able to reach by
+  inquiry, I have already spoken.  It however discharges itself into
+  Egypt; and Egypt lies, as near as may be, opposite to the
+  mountains of Cilicia; from whence to Sinope, on the Euxine Sea,
+  is a five days' journey in a straight line to an active man; and
+  Sinope is opposite to the Ister, where it discharges itself into
+  the sea.  So I think that the Nile, traversing the whole of Libya,
+  may be properly compared with the Ister.  Such, then, is the
+  account that I am able to give respecting the Nile.
+***
+<end of Herodotus's account)
+***
+
+2.  Webb's River must be traced to its connection with some portion
+of the old Nile.
+
+When these two things have been accomplished, then, and not till
+then, can the mystery of the Nile be explained.  The two countries
+through which the marvellous lacustrine river, the Lualaba, flows,
+with its manifold lakes and broad expanse of water, are Rua (the
+Uruwwa of Speke) and Manyuema.  For the first time Europe is made
+aware that between the Tanganika and the known sources of the Congo
+there exist teeming millions of the negro race, who never saw, or
+heard of the white people who make such a noisy and busy stir
+outside of Africa.  Upon the minds of those who had the good
+fortune to see the first specimen of these remarkable white races
+in Dr. Livingstone, he seems to have made a favourable impression,
+though, through misunderstanding his object, and coupling him with
+the Arabs, who make horrible work there, his life was sought after
+more than once.  These two extensive countries, Rua and Manyuema,
+are populated by true heathens, governed, not as the sovereignties
+of Karagwah, Urundi, and Uganda, by despotic kings, but each
+village by its own sultan or lord.  Thirty miles outside of their
+own immediate settlements, the most intelligent of these small
+chiefs seem to know nothing.  Thirty miles from the Lualaba, there
+were but few people who had ever heard of the great river.  Such
+ignorance among the natives of their own country naturally
+increased the labours of Livingstone.  Compared with these, all
+tribes and nations in Africa with whom Livingstone came in contact
+may be deemed civilized, yet, in the arts of home manufacture,
+these wild people of Manyuema were far superior to any he had
+seen.  Where other tribes and nations contented themselves with
+hides and skins of animals thrown negligently over their shoulders,
+the people of Manyuema manufactured a cloth from fine grass, which
+may favorably compare with the finest grass cloth of India.  They
+also know the art of dy/e/ing them in various colours--black, yellow,
+and purple.  The Wangwana, or freed-men of Zanzibar, struck with
+the beauty of the fabric, eagerly exchange their cotton cloths
+for fine grass cloth; and on almost every black man from Manyuema
+I have seen this native cloth converted into elegantly made damirs
+(Arabic)--short jackets.  These countries are also very rich in ivory.
+The fever for going to Manyuema to exchange tawdry beads for its
+precious tusks is of the same kind as that which impelled men to go
+to the gulches and placers of California, Colorado, Montana, and
+Idaho; after nuggets to Australia, and diamonds to Cape Colony.
+Manyuema is at present the El Dorado of the Arab and the Wamrima
+tribes.  It is only about four years since that the first Arab
+returned from Manyuema, with such wealth of ivory, and reports
+about the fabulous quantities found there, that ever since the
+old beaten tracks of Karagwah, Uganda, Ufipa, and Marungu have
+been comparatively deserted.  The people of Manyuema, ignorant
+of the value of the precious article, reared their huts upon
+ivory stanchions.  Ivory pillars were common sights in Manyuema,
+and, hearing of these, one can no longer, wonder at the ivory
+palace of Solomon.  For generations they have used ivory tusks
+as door-posts and supports to the eaves, until they had become
+perfectly rotten and worthless.  But the advent of the Arabs
+soon taught them the value of the article.  It has now risen
+considerably in price, though still fabulously cheap.  At
+Zanzibar the value of ivory per frasilah of 35 lbs. weight
+is from $50 to $60, according to its quality.  In Unyanyembe
+it is about $1-10 per pound, but in Manyuema, it may be
+purchased for from half a cent to 14 cent's worth of copper
+per pound of ivory.  The Arabs, however, have the knack of
+spoiling markets by their rapacity and cruelty.  With muskets,
+a small party of Arabs is invincible against such people as
+those of Manyuema, who, until lately, never heard the sound of
+a gun.  The discharge of a musket inspires mortal terror in them,
+and it is almost impossible to induce them to face the muzzle
+of a gun.  They believe that the Arabs have stolen the lightning,
+and that against such people the bow and arrow can have little
+effect.  They are by no means devoid of courage, and they have
+often declared that, were it not for the guns, not one Arab would
+leave the country alive; this tends to prove that they would
+willingly engage in fight with the strangers who had made
+themselves so detestable, were it not that the startling explosion
+of gunpowder inspires them with terror.
+
+Into what country soever the Arabs enter, they contrive to render
+their name and race abominated.  But the mainspring of it all is
+not the Arab's nature, colour, or name, but simply the slave-trade.
+So long as the slave-trade is permitted to be kept up at Zanzibar,
+so long will these otherwise enterprising people, the Arabs,
+kindle gainst them the hatred of the natives throughout Africa.
+
+On the main line of travel from Zanzibar into the interior of
+Africa these acts of cruelty are unknown, for the very good
+reason that the natives having been armed with guns, and taught
+how to use those weapons, are by no means loth to do so whenever
+an opportunity presents itself.  When, too late, they have perceived
+their folly in selling guns to the natives, the Arabs now begin
+to vow vengeance on the person who will in future sell a gun to
+a native.  But they are all guilty of the same mistake, and it is
+strange they did not perceive that it was folly when they were
+doing so.
+
+In former days the Arab, when protected by his slave escort, armed
+with guns, could travel through Useguhha, Urori, Ukonongo, Ufipa,
+Karagwah, Unyoro, and Uganda, with only a stick in his hand; now,
+however, it is impossible for him or any one else to do so.  Every
+step he takes, armed or unarmed, is fraught with danger.  The
+Waseguhha, near the coast, detain him, and demand the tribute,
+or give him the option of war; entering Ugogo, he is subjected
+every day to the same oppressive demand, or to the fearful alternative.
+The Wanyamwezi also show their readiness to take the same advantage;
+the road to Karagwah is besieged with difficulties; the terrible
+Mirambo stands in the way, defeats their combined forces with ease,
+and makes raids even to the doors of their houses in Unyanyembe;
+and should they succeed in passing Mirambo, a chief--Swaruru--
+stands before them who demands tribute by the bale, and against
+whom it is useless to contend.
+
+These remarks have reference to the slave-trade inaugurated in
+Manyuema by the Arabs.  Harassed on the road between Zanzibar and
+Unyanyembe by minatory natives, who with bloody hands are ready
+to avenge the slightest affront, the Arabs have refrained from
+kidnapping between the Tanganika and the sea; but in Manyuema,
+where the natives are timid, irresolute, and divided into small
+weak tribes, they recover their audacity, and exercise their
+kidnapping propensities unchecked.
+
+The accounts which the Doctor brings from that new region are most
+deplorable.  He was an unwilling spectator of a horrible deed--a
+massacre committed on the inhabitants of a populous district who
+had assembled in the market-place on the banks of the Lualaba, as
+they had been accustomed to do for ages.  It seems that the
+Wamanyuema are very fond of marketing, believing it to be the
+summum bonum of human enjoyment.  They find endless pleasure in
+chaffering with might and main for the least mite of their currency--
+the last bead; and when they gain the point to which their peculiar
+talents are devoted, they feel intensely happy.  The women are
+excessively fond of this marketing, and, as they are very beautiful,
+the market place must possess considerable attractions for the male
+sex.  It was on such a day amidst such a scene, that Tagamoyo, a
+half-caste Arab, with his armed slave escort, commenced an
+indiscriminate massacre by firing volley after volley into the dense
+mass of human beings.  It is supposed that there were about 2,000
+present, and at the first sound of the firing these poor people all
+made a rush for their canoes.  In the fearful hurry to avoid being
+shot, the canoes were paddled away by the first fortunate few who
+got possession of them; those that were not so fortunate sprang
+into the deep waters of the Lualaba, and though many of them became
+an easy prey to the voracious crocodiles which swarmed to the scene,
+the majority received their deaths from the bullets of the
+merciless Tagamoyo and his villanous band.  The Doctor believes,
+as do the Arabs themselves, that about 400 people, mostly women
+and children, lost their lives, while many more were made slaves.
+This outrage is only one of many such he has unwillingly
+witnessed, and he is utterly unable to describe the feelings
+of loathing he feels for the inhuman perpetrators.
+
+Slaves from Manyuema command a higher price than those of any
+other country, because of their fine forms and general docility.
+The women, the Doctor said repeatedly, are remarkably pretty
+creatures, and have nothing, except the hair, in common with
+the negroes of the West Coast.  They are of very light colour,
+have fine noses, well-cut and not over-full lips, while the
+prognathous jaw is uncommon.  These women are eagerly sought
+after as wives by the half-castes of the East Coast, and even
+the pure Omani Arabs do not disdain to take them in marriage.
+
+To the north of Manyuema, Livingstone came to the light-
+complexioned race, of the colour of Portuguese, or our own
+Louisiana quadroons, who are very fine people, and singularly
+remarkable for commercial "'cuteness" and sagacity.  The women
+are expert divers for oysters, which are found in great abundance
+in the Lualaba.
+
+Rua, at a place called Katanga, is rich in copper.  The copper-mines
+of this place have been worked for ages.  In the bed of a stream,
+gold has been found, washed down in pencil-shaped pieces or in
+particles as large as split peas.  Two Arabs have gone thither
+to prospect for this metal; but, as they are ignorant of the art
+of gulch-mining, it is scarcely possible that they will succeed.
+From these highly important and interesting discoveries, Dr.
+Livingstone was turned back, when almost on the threshold of
+success, by the positive refusal of his men to accompany him further.
+They were afraid to go on unless accompanied by a large force of
+men; and, as these were not procurable in Manyuema, the Doctor
+reluctantly turned his face towards Ujiji.
+
+It was a long and weary road back.  The journey had now no
+interest for him.  He had travelled the road before when going
+westward, full of high hopes and aspirations, impatient to reach
+the goal which promised him rest from his labors--now, returning
+unsuccessful, baffled, and thwarted, when almost in sight of the
+end, and having to travel the same path back on foot, with
+disappointed expectations and defeated hopes preying on his mind,
+no wonder that the old brave spirit almost succumbed, and the
+strong constitution almost went to wreck.
+
+Livingstone arrived at Ujiji, October 16th, almost at death's door.
+On the way he had been trying to cheer himself up, since he had
+found it impossible to contend against the obstinacy of his men,
+with, "It won't take long; five or six months more; it matters
+not since it cannot be helped.  I have got my goods in Ujiji, and
+can hire other people, and make a new start again."  These are the
+words and hopes by which he tried to delude himself into the idea
+that all would be right yet; but imagine the shock he must have
+suffered, when he found that the man to whom was entrusted his
+goods for safe keeping had sold every bale for ivory.
+
+The evening of the day Livingstone had returned to Ujiji, Susi
+and Chuma, two of his most faithful men, were seen crying bitterly.
+The Doctor asked of them what ailed them, and was then informed,
+for the first time, of the evil tidings that awaited him.
+
+Said they, "All our things are sold, sir; Sherif has sold
+everything for ivory."
+
+Later in the evening, Sherif came to see him, and shamelessly
+offered his hand, but Livingstone repulsed him, saying he could not
+shake hands with a thief.  As an excuse, Sherif said he had divined
+on the Koran, and that this had told him the Hakim (Arabic for
+Doctor) was dead.
+
+Livingstone was now destitute; he had just enough to keep him and
+his men alive for about a month, when he would be forced to beg
+from the Arabs.
+
+The Doctor further stated, that when Speke gives the altitude of
+the Tanganika at only 1,800 feet above the sea, Speke must have
+fallen into that error by a frequent writing of the Anne Domini,
+a mere slip of the pen; for the altitude, as he makes it out,
+is 2,800 feet by boiling point, and a little over 3,000 feet by
+barometer.
+
+The Doctor's complaints were many because slaves were sent to him,
+in charge of goods, after he had so often implored the people at
+Zanzibar to send him freemen.  A very little effort on the part of
+those entrusted with the despatch of supplies to him might have
+enabled them to procure good and faithful freemen; but if they
+contented themselves, upon the receipt of a letter from Dr.
+Livingstone, with sending to Ludha Damji for men, it is no longer
+a matter of wonder that dishonest and incapable slaves were sent
+forward.  It is no new fact that the Doctor has discovered when
+he states that a negro freeman is a hundred times more capable
+and trustworthy than a slave.  Centuries ago Eumaeus, the herdsman,
+said to Ulysses:
+
+Jove fixed it certain, that whatever day
+Makes man a slave, takes half his worth away.
+
+We passed several happy days at Ujiji, and it was time we were now
+preparing for our cruise on the Tanganika.  Livingstone was
+improving every day under the different diet which my cook furnished
+him.  I could give him no such suppers as that which Jupiter and
+Mercury received at the cottage of Baucis and Philemon.  We had no
+berries of chaste Minerva, pickled cherries, endive, radishes,
+dried figs, dates, fragrant apples, and grapes; but we had cheese,
+and butter which I made myself, new-laid eggs, chickens, roast
+mutton, fish from the lake, rich curds and cream, wine from the
+Guinea-palm, egg-plants, cucumbers, sweet potatoes, pea-nuts,
+and beans, white honey from Ukaranga, luscious singwe--a plum-like
+fruit--from the forests of Ujiji, and corn scones and dampers,
+in place of wheaten bread.
+
+During the noontide heats we sat under our veranda discussing our
+various projects, and in the early morning and evening we sought
+the shores of the lake--promenading up and down the beach to breathe
+the cool breezes which ruffled the surface of the water, and rolled
+the unquiet surf far up on the smooth and whitened shore.
+
+It was the dry season, and we had most lovely weather; the
+temperature never was over 80 degrees in the shade.
+
+The market-place overlooking the broad silver water afforded us
+amusement and instruction.  Representatives of most of the tribes
+dwelling near the lake were daily found there.  There were the
+agricultural and pastoral Wajiji, with their flocks and herds;
+there were the fishermen from Ukaranga and Kaole, from beyond
+Bangwe, and even from Urundi, with their whitebait, which they
+called dogara, the silurus, the perch, and other fish; there were
+the palm-oil merchants, principally from Ujiji and Urundi, with
+great five-gallon pots full of reddish oil, of the consistency of
+butter; there were the salt merchants from the salt-plains of
+Uvinza and Uhha; there were the ivory merchants from Uvira and
+Usowa; there were the canoe-makers from Ugoma and Urundi; there
+were the cheap-Jack pedlers from Zanzibar, selling flimsy prints,
+and brokers exchanging blue mutunda beads for sami-sami, and
+sungomazzi, and sofi.  The sofi beads are like pieces of thick
+clay-pipe stem about half an inch long, and are in great demand
+here.  Here were found Waguhha, Wamanyuema, Wagoma, Wavira,
+Wasige, Warundi, Wajiji, Waha, Wavinza, Wasowa, Wangwana, Wakawendi,
+Arabs, and Wasawahili, engaged in noisy chaffer and barter.
+Bareheaded, and almost barebodied, the youths made love to the
+dark-skinned and woolly-headed Phyllises, who knew not how to
+blush at the ardent gaze of love, as their white sisters; old
+matrons gossiped, as the old women do everywhere; the children
+played, and laughed, and struggled, as children of our own lands;
+and the old men, leaning on their spears or bows, were just as
+garrulous in the Place de Ujiji as aged elders in other climes.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIII.  OUR CRUISE ON THE LAKE TANGANIKA--
+               EXPLORATION OF THE NORTH-END OF THE LAKE--
+               THE RUSIZI IS DISCOVERED TO ENTER INTO THE LAKE--
+               RETURN TO UJIJI.
+
+"I distinctly deny that `any misleading by my instructions
+from the Royal Geographical Society as to the position of the
+White Nile' made me unconscious of the vast importance of
+ascertaining the direction of the Rusizi River.  The fact is,
+we did our best to reach it, and we failed."--Burton's Zanzibar.
+
+"The universal testimony of the natives to the Rusizi River
+being an influent is the most conclusive argument that it does
+run out of the lake."--Speke.
+
+"I therefore claim for Lake Tanganika the honour of being the
+SOUTHERNMOST RESERVOIR OF THE NILE, until some more positive
+evidence, by actual observation, shall otherwise determine it."--
+Findlay, R.G.S.
+
+
+Had Livingstone and myself, after making up our minds to visit
+the northern head of the Lake Tanganika, been compelled by the
+absurd demands or fears of a crew of Wajiji to return to
+Unyanyembe without having resolved the problem of the Rusizi River,
+we had surely deserved to be greeted by everybody at home with a
+universal giggling and cackling.  But Capt. Burton's failure to
+settle it, by engaging Wajiji, and that ridiculous savage chief
+Kannena, had warned us of the negative assistance we could expect
+from such people for the solution of a geographical problem.  We
+had enough good sailors with us, who were entirely under our
+commands.  Could we but procure the loan of a canoe, we thought
+all might be well.
+
+Upon application to Sayd bin Majid, he at once generously
+permitted us to use his canoe for any service for which we might
+require it.  After engaging two Wajiji guides at two doti each,
+we prepared to sail from the port of Ujiji, in about a week or
+so after my entrance into Ujiji.
+
+I have already stated how it was that the Doctor and I undertook
+the exploration of the northern half of the Tanganika and the River
+Rusizi, about which so much had been said and written.
+
+Before embarking on this enterprise, Dr. Livingstone had not
+definitely made up his mind which course he should take, as his
+position was truly deplorable.  His servants consisted of Susi,
+Chumah, Hamoydah, Gardner, and Halimah, the female cook and wife of
+Hamoydah; to these was added Kaif-Halek, the man whom I compelled
+to follow me from Unyanyembe to deliver the Livingstone letters to
+his master.
+
+Whither could Dr. Livingstone march with these few men, and the
+few table-cloths and beads that remained to him from the store
+squandered by the imbecile Sherif?  This was a puzzling question.
+Had Dr. Livingstone been in good health, his usual hardihood and
+indomitable spirit had answered it in a summary way.  He might
+have borrowed some cloth from Sayd bin Majid at an exorbitant
+price, sufficient to bring him to Unyanyembe and the sea-coast.
+But how long would he have been compelled to sit down at Ujiji,
+waiting and waiting for the goods that were said to be at
+Unyanyembe, a prey to high expectations, hoping day after day
+that the war would end--hoping week after week to hear that
+his goods were coming?  Who knows how long his weak health had
+borne up against the several disappointments to which he would be
+subjected?
+
+Though it was with all due deference to Dr. Livingstone's vast
+experience as a traveller, I made bold to suggest the following
+courses to him, either of which he could adopt:
+
+Ist. To go home, and take the rest he so well deserved and, as he
+appeared then, to be so much in need of.
+
+2nd. To proceed to Unyanyembe, receive his goods, and enlist
+pagazis sufficient to enable him to travel anywhere, either to
+Manyuema or Rua, and settle the Nile problem, which he said he
+was in a fair way of doing.
+
+3rd. To proceed to Unyanyembe, receive his caravan, enlist men,
+and try to join Sir Samuel Baker, either by going to Muanza, and
+sailing through Ukerewe or Victoria N'Yanza in my boats--which I
+should put up--to Mtesa's palace at Uganda, thus passing by
+Mirambo and Swaruru of Usui, who would rob him if he took the
+usual caravan road to Uganda; thence from Mtesa to Kamrasi,
+King of Unyoro, where he would of course hear of the great white
+man who was said to be with a large force of men at Gondokoro.
+
+4th. To proceed to Unyanyembe, receive his caravan, enlist men,
+and return to Ujiji, and back to Manyuema by way of Uguhha.
+
+5th. To proceed by way of the Rusizi through Ruanda, and so on
+to Itara, Unyoro, and Baker.
+
+For either course, whichever he thought most expedient, I and my
+men would assist him as escort and carriers, to the best of our
+ability.  If he should elect to go home, I informed him I should
+be proud to escort him, and consider myself subject to his
+commands--travelling only when he desired, and camping only when
+he gave the word.
+
+6th. The last course which I suggested to him, was to permit me to
+escort him to Unyanyembe, where he could receive his own goods,
+and where I could deliver up to him a large supply of first-class
+cloth and beads, guns and ammunition, cooking utensils, clothing,
+boats, tents, &c., and where he could rest in a comfortable house,
+while I would hurry down to the coast, organise a new expedition
+composed of fifty or sixty faithful men, well armed, by whom I
+could send an additional supply of needful luxuries in the shape
+of creature comforts.
+
+After long consideration, he resolved to adopt the last course,
+as it appeared to him to be the most feasible one, and the best,
+though he did not hesitate to comment upon the unaccountable apathy
+of his agent at Zanzibar, which had caused him so much trouble and
+vexation, and weary marching of hundreds of miles.
+
+Our ship--though nothing more than a cranky canoe hollowed out of
+a noble mvule tree of Ugoma--was an African Argo bound on a nobler
+enterprise than its famous Grecian prototype.  We were bound upon
+no mercenary errand, after no Golden Fleece, but perhaps to
+discover a highway for commerce which should bring the ships of
+the Nile up to Ujiji, Usowa, and far Marungu.  We did not know
+what we might discover on our voyage to the northern head of
+the Tanganika; we supposed that we should find the Rusizi to be
+an effluent of the Tanganika, flowing down to the Albert or the
+Victoria N'Yanza.  We were told by natives and Arabs that the
+Rusizi ran out of the lake.
+
+Sayd bin Majid had stated that his canoe would carry twenty-five
+men, and 3,500 lbs. of ivory.  Acting upon this information, we
+embarked twenty-five men, several of whom had stored away bags of
+salt for the purposes of trade with the natives; but upon pushing
+off from the shore near Ujiji, we discovered the boat was too
+heavily laden, and was down to the gunwale.  Returning in-shore,
+we disembarked six men, and unloaded the bags of salt, which left
+us with sixteen rowers, Selim, Ferajji the cook, and the two
+Wajiji guides.
+
+Having thus properly trimmed our boat we again pushed off, and
+steered her head for Bangwe Island, which was distant four or
+five miles from the Bunder of Ujiji.  While passing this island
+the guides informed us that the Arabs and Wajiji took shelter on
+it during an incursion of the Watuta--which took place some years
+ago--when they came and invaded Ujiji, and massacred several of
+the inhabitants.  Those who took refuge on the island were the
+only persons who escaped the fire and sword with which the Watuta
+had visited Ujiji.
+
+After passing the island and following the various bends and
+indentations of the shore, we came in sight of the magnificent bay
+of Kigoma, which strikes one at once as being an excellent harbor
+from the variable winds which blow over the Tanganika.  About
+10 A.M. we drew in towards the village of Kigoma, as the east wind
+was then rising, and threatened to drive us to sea.  With those
+travelling parties who are not in much hurry Kigoma is always
+the first port for canoes bound north from Ujiji.  The next
+morning at dawn we struck tent, stowed baggage, cooked, and
+drank coffee, and set off northward again.
+
+The lake was quite calm; its waters, of a dark-green colour,
+reflected the serene blue sky above.  The hippopotami came up
+to breathe in alarmingly close proximity to our canoe, and then
+plunged their heads again, as if they were playing hide-and-seek
+with us.  Arriving opposite the high wooded hills of Bemba, and
+being a mile from shore, we thought it a good opportunity to sound
+the depth of the water, whose colour seemed to indicate great depth.
+We found thirty-five fathoms at this place.
+
+Our canoeing of this day was made close in-shore, with a range of
+hills, beautifully wooded and clothed with green grass, sloping
+abruptly, almost precipitously, into the depths of the fresh-water
+sea, towering immediately above us, and as we rounded the several
+capes or points, roused high expectations of some new wonder, or
+some exquisite picture being revealed as the deep folds disclosed
+themselves to us.  Nor were we disappointed.  The wooded hills with
+a wealth of boscage of beautiful trees, many of which were in
+bloom, and crowned with floral glory, exhaling an indescribably
+sweet fragrance, lifting their heads in varied contour--one
+pyramidal, another a truncated cone; one table-topped, another
+ridgy, like the steep roof of a church; one a glorious heave with
+an even outline, another jagged and savage-interested us
+considerably; and the pretty pictures, exquisitely pretty, at
+the head of the several bays, evoked many an exclamation of
+ admiration.  It was the most natural thing in the world that
+I should feel deepest admiration for these successive pictures
+of quiet scenic beauty, but the Doctor had quite as much to say
+about them as I had myself, though, as one might imagine, satiated
+with pictures of this kind far more beautiful--far more wonderful--
+he should long ago have expended all his powers of admiring scenes
+in nature.
+
+From Bagamoyo to Ujiji I had seen nothing to compare to them--none
+of these fishing settlements under the shade of a grove of palms
+and plantains, banians and mimosa, with cassava gardens to the
+right and left of palmy forests, and patches of luxuriant grain
+looking down upon a quiet bay, whose calm waters at the early morn
+reflected the beauties of the hills which sheltered them from the
+rough and boisterous tempests that so often blew without.
+
+The fishermen evidently think themselves comfortably situated.
+The lake affords them all the fish they require, more than enough
+to eat, and the industrious a great deal to sell.  The steep slopes
+of the hills, cultivated by the housewives, contribute plenty of
+grain, such as dourra and Indian corn, besides cassava, ground-nuts
+or peanuts, and sweet potatoes.  The palm trees afford oil, and the
+plantains an abundance of delicious fruit.  The ravines and deep
+gullies supply them with the tall shapely trees from which they
+cut out their canoes.  Nature has supplied them bountifully with
+all that a man's heart or stomach can desire.  It is while looking
+at what seems both externally and internally complete and perfect
+happiness that the thought occurs--how must these people sigh,
+when driven across the dreary wilderness that intervenes between
+the lake country and the sea-coast, for such homes as these!--
+those unfortunates who, bought by the Arabs for a couple of doti,
+are taken away to Zanzibar to pick cloves, or do hamal work!
+
+As we drew near Niasanga, our second camp, the comparison between
+the noble array of picturesque hills and receding coves, with
+their pastoral and agricultural scenes, and the shores of old
+Pontus, was very great.  A few minutes before we hauled our canoe
+ashore, two little incidents occurred.  I shot an enormous
+dog-faced monkey, which measured from nose to end of tail 4 feet
+9 inches; the face was 8 1/2 inches long, its body weighed
+about 100 lbs.  It had no mane or tuft at end of tail, but
+the body was covered with long wiry hair.  Numbers of these
+specimens were seen, as well as of the active cat-headed and
+long-tailed smaller ones.  The other was the sight of a large
+lizard, about 2 ft. 6 in. long, which waddled into cover before
+we had well noticed it.  The Doctor thought it to be the Monitor
+terrestris.
+
+We encamped under a banian tree; our surroundings were the now
+light-grey waters of the Tanganika, an amphitheatral range of
+hills, and the village of Niasanga, situated at the mouth of the
+rivulet Niasanga, with its grove of palms, thicket of plantains,
+and plots of grain and cassava fields.  Near our tent were about
+half-a-dozen canoes, large and small, belonging to the villagers.
+Our tent door fronted the glorious expanse of fresh water,
+inviting the breeze, and the views of distant Ugoma and Ukaramba,
+and the Island of Muzimu, whose ridges appeared of a deep-blue
+colour.  At our feet were the clean and well-washed pebbles, borne
+upward into tiny lines and heaps by the restless surf.  A search
+amongst these would reveal to us the material of the mountain
+heaps which rose behind and on our right and left; there was schist,
+conglomerate sandstone, a hard white clay, an ochreish clay
+containing much iron, polished quartz, &c.  Looking out of our tent,
+we could see a line on each side of us of thick tall reeds, which
+form something like a hedge between the beach and the cultivated
+area around Niasanga.  Among birds seen here, the most noted were
+the merry wagtails, which are regarded as good omens and
+messengers of peace by the natives, and any harm done unto them
+is quickly resented, and is fineable.  Except to the mischievously
+inclined, they offer no inducement to commit violence.  On landing,
+they flew to meet us, balancing themselves in the air in front,
+within easy reach of our hands.  The other birds were crows,
+turtle-doves, fish-hawks, kingfishers, ibis nigra and ibis
+religiosa, flocks of whydah birds, geese, darters, paddy birds,
+kites, and eagles.
+
+At this place the Doctor suffered from dysentery--it is his only
+weak point, he says; and, as I afterwards found, it is a frequent
+complaint with him.  Whatever disturbed his mind, or any
+irregularity in eating, was sure to end in an attack of dysentery,
+which had lately become of a chronic character.
+
+The third day of our journey on the Tanganika brought us to Zassi
+River and village, after a four hours' pull.  Along the line of
+road the mountains rose 2,000 and 2,500 feet above the waters of
+the lake.  I imagined the scenery getting more picturesque and
+animated at every step, and thought it by far lovelier than
+anything seen near Lake George or on the Hudson.  The cosy nooks
+at the head of the many small bays constitute most admirable
+pictures, filled in as they are with the ever-beautiful feathery
+palms and broad green plantain fronds.  These nooks have all been
+taken possession of by fishermen, and their conically beehive-
+shaped huts always peep from under the frondage.  The shores are
+thus extremely populous; every terrace, small plateau, and bit of
+level ground is occupied.
+
+Zassi is easily known by a group of conical hills which rise near
+by, and are called Kirassa.  Opposite to these, at the distance of
+about a mile from shore, we sounded, and obtained 35 fathoms, as on
+the previous day.  Getting out a mile further, I let go the whole
+length of my line, 115 fathoms, and obtained no bottom.  In drawing
+it up again the line parted, and I lost the lead, with three-fourths
+of the line.  The Doctor stated, apropos of this, that he had
+sounded opposite the lofty Kabogo, south of Ujiji, and obtained the
+great depth of 300 fathoms.  He also lost his lead and 100 fathoms
+of his line, but he had nearly 900 fathoms left, and this was in
+the canoes.  We hope to use this long sounding line in going across
+from the eastern to the western shore.
+
+On the fourth day we arrived at Nyabigma, a sandy island in
+Urundi.  We had passed the boundary line between Ujiji and Urundi
+half-an-hour before arriving at Nyabigma.  The Mshala River is
+considered by both nations to be the proper divisional line;
+though there are parties of Warundi who have emigrated beyond the
+frontier into Ujiji; for instance, the Mutware and villagers of
+populous Kagunga, distant an hour north from Zassi.  There are also
+several small parties of Wajiji, who have taken advantage of the
+fine lands in the deltas of the Kasokwe, Namusinga, and Luaba
+Rivers, the two first of which enter the Tanganika in this bay,
+near the head of which Nyabigma is situated.
+
+From Nyabigma, a pretty good view of the deep curve in the great
+mountain range which stretches from Cape Kazinga and terminates at
+Cape Kasofu, may be obtained--a distance of twenty or twenty-five
+miles.  It is a most imposing scene, this great humpy, ridgy, and
+irregular line of mountains.  Deep ravines and chasms afford outlets
+to the numerous streams and rivers which take their rise in the
+background; the pale fleecy ether almost always shrouds its summit.
+From its base extends a broad alluvial plain, rich beyond description,
+teeming with palms and plantains, and umbrageous trees.  Villages
+are seen in clusters everywhere.  Into this alluvial plain run the
+Luaba, or Ruaba River, on the north side of Cape Kitunda, and the
+Kasokwe, Namusinga, and Mshala Rivers, on the south side of the cape.
+All the deltas of rivers emptying into the Tanganika are hedged
+in on all sides with a thick growth of matete, a gigantic species
+of grass, and papyrus.  In some deltas, as that of Luaba and
+Kasokwe, morasses have been formed, in which the matete and papyrus
+jungle is impenetrable.  In the depths of them are quiet and deep
+pools, frequented by various aquatic birds, such as geese, ducks,
+snipes, widgeons, kingfishers and ibis, cranes and storks, and
+pelicans.  To reach their haunts is, however, a work of great
+difficulty to the sportsman in quest of game; a work often
+attended with great danger, from the treacherous nature of these
+morasses, as well as from the dreadful attacks of fever which,
+in these regions, invariably follow wet feet and wet clothes.
+
+At Nyabigma we prepared, by distributing ten rounds of ammunition
+to each of our men, for a tussle with the Warundi of two stages
+ahead, should they invite it by a too forward exhibition of their
+prejudice to strangers.
+
+At dawn of the fifth day we quitted the haven of Nyabigma Island,
+and in less than an hour had arrived off Cape Kitunda.  This cape
+is a low platform of conglomerate sandstone, extending for about
+eight miles from the base of the great mountain curve which gives
+birth to the Luaba and its sister streams.  Crossing the deep bay,
+at the head of which is the delta of the Luaba, we came to Cape
+Kasofu.  Villages are numerous in this vicinity.  From hence we
+obtained a view of a series of points or capes, Kigongo, Katunga,
+and Buguluka, all of which we passed before coming to a halt at
+the pretty position of Mukungu.
+
+At Mukungu, where we stopped on the fifth day, we were asked for
+honga, or tribute.  The cloth and beads upon which we subsisted
+during our lake voyage were mine, but the Doctor, being the elder
+of the two, more experienced, and the "big man" of the party, had
+the charge of satisfying all such demands.  Many and many a time
+had I gone through the tedious and soul-wearying task of settling
+the honga, and I was quite curious to see how the great traveller
+would perform the work.
+
+The Mateko (a man inferior to a Mutware) of Mukungu asked for two
+and a half doti.  This was the extent of the demand, which he made
+known to us a little after dark.  The Doctor asked if nothing had
+been brought to us.  He was answered, "No, it was too late to get
+anything now; but, if we paid the honga, the Mateko would be ready
+to give us something when we came back."  Livingstone, upon hearing
+this, smiled, and the Mateko being then and there in front of him,
+he said to him.  "Well, if you can't get us anything now, and
+intend to give something when we return, we had better keep the
+honga until then."  The Mateko was rather taken aback at this,
+and demurred to any such proposition.  Seeing that he was
+dissatisfied, we urged him to bring one sheep--one little sheep--
+for our stomachs were nearly empty, having been waiting more than
+half a day for it.  The appeal was successful, for the old man
+hastened, and brought us a lamb and a three-gallon pot of sweet
+but strong zogga, or palm toddy, and in return the Doctor
+gave him two and a half doti of cloth.  The lamb was killed, and,
+our digestions being good, its flesh agreed with us; but, alas,
+for the effects of zogga, or palm toddy!  Susi, the invaluable
+adjunct of Dr. Livingstone, and Bombay, the headman of my
+caravan, were the two charged with watching the canoe; but, having
+imbibed too freely of this intoxicating toddy, they slept heavily,
+and in the morning the Doctor and I had to regret the loss of
+several valuable and indispensable things; among which may be
+mentioned the Doctor's 900-fathom sounding-line, 500 rounds of pin,
+rim, and central-fire cartridges for my arms, and ninety musket
+bullets, also belonging to me.  Besides these, which were
+indispensable in hostile Warundi, a large bag of flour and the
+Doctor's entire stock of white sugar were stolen.  This was the
+third time that my reliance in Bombay's trustworthiness resulted
+in a great loss to me, and for the ninety-ninth time I had to
+regret bitterly having placed such entire confidence in Speke's
+loud commendation of him.  It was only the natural cowardice of
+ignorant thieves that prevented the savages from taking the boat
+and its entire contents, together with Bombay and Susi as slaves.
+I can well imagine the joyful surprise which must have been
+called forth at the sight and exquisite taste of the Doctor's
+sugar, and the wonder with which they must have regarded the
+strange ammunition of the Wasungu.  It is to be sincerely hoped
+that they did not hurt themselves with the explosive bullets and
+rim cartridges through any ignorance of the nature of the deadly
+contents; in which ease the box and its contents would prove a
+very Pandora's casket.
+
+Much grieved at our loss, we set off on the sixth day at the usual
+hour on our watery journey.  We coasted close to the several low
+headlands formed by the rivers Kigwena, Kikuma, and Kisunwe; and
+when any bay promised to be interesting, steered the canoe
+according to its indentations.  While travelling on the water--each
+day brought forth similar scenes--on our right rose the mountains
+of Urundi, now and then disclosing the ravines through which the
+several rivers and streams issued into the great lake; at their
+base were the alluvial plains, where flourished the oil-palm and
+grateful plantain, while scores of villages were grouped under
+their shade.  Now and then we passed long narrow strips of pebbly
+or sandy beach, whereon markets were improvised for selling fish,
+and the staple products of the respective communities.  Then we
+passed broad swampy morasses, formed by the numerous streams
+which the mountains discharged, where the matete and papyrus
+flourished.  Now the mountains approached to the water, their sides
+descending abruptly to the water's edge; then they receded into
+deep folds, at the base of which was sure to be seen an alluvial
+plain from one to eight miles broad.  Almost constantly we
+observed canoes being punted vigorously close to the surf,
+in fearless defiance of a catastrophe, such as a capsize and
+gobbling-up by voracious crocodiles.  Sometimes we sighted a canoe
+a short distance ahead of us; whereupon our men, with song and
+chorus, would exert themselves to the utmost to overtake it.
+Upon observing our efforts, the natives would bend themselves to
+their tasks, and paddling standing and stark naked, give us ample
+opportunities for studying at our leisure comparative anatomy.
+Or we saw a group of fishermen lazily reclining in _puris naturalibus_
+on the beach, regarding with curious eye the canoes as they passed
+their neighbourhood; then we passed a flotilla of canoes, their
+owners sitting quietly in their huts, busily plying the rod and
+hook, or casting their nets, or a couple of men arranging their
+long drag nets close in shore for a haul; or children sporting
+fearlessly in the water, with their mothers looking on approvingly
+from under the shade of a tree, from which I infer that there are
+not many crocodiles in the lake, except in the neighbourhood of
+the large rivers.
+
+After passing the low headland of Kisunwe, formed by the Kisunwe
+River, we came in view of Murembwe Cape, distant about four or five
+miles: the intervening ground being low land, a sandy and pebbly
+beach.  Close to the beach are scores of villages, while the
+crowded shore indicates the populousness of the place beyond.
+About half way between Cape Kisunwe and Murembwe, is a cluster of
+villages called Bikari, which has a mutware who is in the habit of
+taking honga.  As we were rendered unable to cope for any length
+of time with any mischievously inclined community, all villages
+having a bad reputation with the Wajiji were avoided by us.
+But even the Wajiji guides were sometimes mistaken, and led us
+more than once into dangerous places.  The guides evidently had
+no objections to halt at Bikari, as it was the second camp from
+Mukungu; because with them a halt in the cool shade of plaintains
+was infinitely preferable to sitting like carved pieces of wood
+in a cranky canoe.  But before they stated their objections and
+preferences, the Bikari people called to us in a loud voice to
+come ashore, threatening us with the vengeance of the great Wami
+if we did not halt.  As the voices were anything but siren-like,
+we obstinately refused to accede to the request.  Finding threats
+of no avail, they had recourse to stones, and, accordingly, flung
+them at us in a most hearty manner.  As one came within a foot of
+my arm, I suggested that a bullet be sent in return in close
+proximity to their feet; but Livingstone, though he said nothing,
+yet showed plainly enough that he did not quite approve of this.
+As these demonstrations of hostility were anything but welcome,
+and as we saw signs of it almost every time we came opposite a
+village, we kept on our way until we came to Murembwe Point,
+which, being a delta of a river of the same name, was well
+protected by a breadth of thorny jungle, spiky cane, and a thick
+growth of reed and papyrus, from which the boldest Mrundi might
+well shrink, especially if he called to mind that beyond this
+inhospitable swamp were the guns of the strangers his like had
+so rudely challenged.  We drew our canoe ashore here, and, on
+a limited area of clean sand, Ferajji, our rough-and-ready cook,
+lit his fire, and manufactured for us a supply of most delicious
+Mocha coffee.  Despite the dangers which still beset us, we were
+quite happy, and seasoned our meal with a little moral philosophy,
+which lifted us unconsciously into infinitely superior beings to
+the pagans by whom we were surrounded--upon whom we now looked down,
+under the influence of Mocha coffee and moral philosophy, with
+calm contempt, not unmixed with a certain amount of compassion.
+The Doctor related some experiences he had had among people of
+similar disposition, but did not fail to ascribe them, with the
+wisdom of a man of ripe experiences, to the unwise conduct of
+the Arabs and half-castes; in this opinion I unreservedly concur.
+
+From Murembwe Point, having finished our coffee and ended our
+discourse on ethics, we proceeded on our voyage, steering for Cape
+Sentakeyi, which, though it was eight or ten miles away, we hoped
+to make before dark.  The Wangwana pulled with right good will, but
+ten hours went by, and night was drawing near, and we were still
+far from Sentakeyi.  As it was a fine moonlight night, and we were
+fully alive to the dangerous position in which we might find
+ourselves, they consented to pull an hour or two more.  About 1 P.M.,
+we pulled in shore for a deserted spot--a clean shelf of sand,
+about thirty feet long by ten deep, from which a clay bank rose
+about ten or twelve feet above, while on each side there were
+masses of disintegrated rock.  Here we thought, that by preserving
+some degree of silence, we might escape observation, and consequent
+annoyance, for a few hours, when, being rested, we might continue
+our journey.  Our kettle was boiling for tea, and the men had built
+a little fire for themselves, and had filled their black earthen pot
+with water for porridge, when our look-outs perceived dark forms
+creeping towards our bivouac.  Being hailed, they at once came
+forward, and saluted us with the native "Wake."  Our guides
+explained that we were Wangwana, and intended to camp until morning,
+when, if they had anything to sell, we should be glad to trade with
+them.  They said they were rejoiced to hear this, and after they had
+exchanged a few words more--during which time we observed that they
+were taking mental notes of the camp--they went away.  Upon leaving,
+they promised to return in the morning with food, and make friends
+with us.  While drinking our tea, the look-outs warned us of the
+approach of a second party, which went through the same process of
+saluting and observing as the first had done.  These also went away,
+over-exuberant, as I thought, and were shortly succeeded by a
+third party, who came and went as the others had.  From all this we
+inferred that the news was spreading rapidly through the villages
+about, and we had noticed two canoes passing backwards and forwards
+with rather more haste than we deemed usual or necessary.  We had
+good cause to be suspicious; it is not customary for people (at
+least, between Ujiji and Zanzibar) to be about visiting and
+saluting after dark, under any pretence; it is not permitted to
+persons to prowl about camp after dark without being shot at; and
+this going backward and forward, this ostentatious exuberance of
+joy at the arrival of a small party of Wangwana, which in many
+parts of Urundi would be regarded as a very common event, was
+altogether very suspicious.  While the Doctor and I were arriving
+at the conclusion that these movements were preliminary to or
+significant of hostility, a fourth body, very boisterous and loud,
+came and visited us.  Our supper had been by this time despatched,
+and we thought it high time to act.  The fourth party having gone
+with extravagant manifestations of delight, the men were hurried
+into the canoe, and, when all were seated, and the look-outs embarked,
+we quietly pushed off, but not a moment too soon.  As the canoe
+was gliding from the darkened light that surrounded us, I called
+the Doctor's attention to several dark forms; some of whom were
+crouching behind the rocks on our right, and others scrambling
+over them to obtain good or better positions; at the same time
+people were approaching from the left of our position, in the
+same suspicious way; and directly a voice hailed us from the
+top of the clay bank overhanging the sandy shelf where we had
+lately been resting.  "Neatly done," cried the Doctor, as we
+were shooting through the water, leaving the discomfited
+would-be robbers behind us.  Here, again, my hand was stayed from
+planting a couple of good shots, as a warning to them in future
+from molesting strangers, by the more presence of the Doctor,
+who, as I thought, if it were actually necessary, would not
+hesitate to give the word.
+
+After pulling six hours more, during which we had rounded Cape
+Sentakeyi, we stopped at the small fishing village of Mugeyo, where
+we were permitted to sleep unmolested.  At dawn we continued our
+journey, and about 8 A.M. arrived at the village of the friendly
+Mutware of Magala.  We had pulled for eighteen hours at a stretch,
+which, at the rate of two miles and a half per hour, would make
+forty-five miles.  Taking bearings from our camp at Cape Magala,
+one of the most prominent points in travelling north from Ujiji, we
+found that the large island of Muzimu, which had been in sight ever
+since rounding Cape Bangwe, near Ujiji Bunder, bore about
+south-south-west, and that the western shore had considerably
+approached to the eastern; the breadth of the lake being at this
+point about eight or ten miles.  We had a good view of the western
+highlands, which seemed to be of an average height, about 3,000
+feet above the lake.  Luhanga Peak, rising a little to the north of
+west from Magala, might be about 500 feet higher; and Sumburizi, a
+little north of Luhanga, where lived Mruta, Sultan of Uvira, the
+country opposite to this part of Urundi, about 300 feet higher
+than the neighbouring heights.  Northward from Magala Cape the lake
+streamed away between two chains of mountains; both meeting in a
+point about thirty miles north of us.
+
+The Warundi of Magala were very civil, and profound starers.  They
+flocked around the tent door, and most pertinaciously gazed on us,
+as if we were subjects of most intense interest, but liable to
+sudden and eternal departure.  The Mutware came to see us late in
+the afternoon, dressed with great pomp.  He turned out to be a boy
+whom I had noticed in the crowd of gazers for his good looks and
+fine teeth, which he showed, being addicted to laughing
+continually.  There was no mistaking him, though he was now
+decorated with many ivory ornaments, with necklaces, and with
+heavy brass bracelets and iron wire anklets.  Our admiration of
+him was reciprocated; and, in return for our two doti of cloth and
+a fundo of samsam, he gave a fine fat and broad-tailed sheep,
+and a pot of milk.  In our condition both were extremely acceptable.
+
+At Magala we heard of a war raging between Mukamba, for whose
+country we were bound, and Warumashanya, a Sultan of an adjoining
+district; and we were advised that, unless we intended to assist
+one of these chiefs against the other, it would be better for us to
+return.  But, as we had started to solve the problem of the Rusizi
+River, such considerations had no weight with us.
+
+On the eighth morning from leaving Ujiji we bade farewell to the
+hospitable people of Magala, and set off for Mukamba's country,
+which was in view.  Soon after passing the boundary between Urundi
+proper, and what is known as Usige, a storm from the south-west
+arose; and the fearful yawing of our canoe into the wave trough
+warned us from proceeding further; so we turned her head for Kisuka
+village, about four miles north, where Mugere, in Usige, begins.
+
+At Kisuka a Mgwana living with Mukamba came to see us, and gave us
+details of the war between Mukamba and Warumashanya, from which it
+seemed that these two chiefs were continually at loggerheads.  It
+is a tame way of fighting, after all.  One chief makes a raid into
+the other's country, and succeeds in making off with a herd of
+cattle, killing one or two men who have been surprised.  Weeks, or
+perhaps months elapse before the other retaliates, and effects a
+capture in a similar way, and then a balance is struck in which
+neither is the gainer.  Seldom do they attack each other with
+courage and hearty goodwill, the constitution of the African
+being decidedly against any such energetic warfare.
+
+This Mgwana, further, upon being questioned, gave us information
+far more interesting, viz., about the Rusizi.  He told us
+positively, with the air of a man who knew all about it, and as
+if anybody who doubted him might well be set down as an egregious
+ass, that the Rusizi River flowed out of the lake, away to Suna's
+(Mtesa's) country.  "Where else could it flow to?" he asked.  The
+Doctor was inclined to believe it, or, perhaps he was more inclined
+to let it rest as stated until our own eyes should confirm it.  I
+was more inclined to doubt, as I told the Doctor; first, it was
+too good to be true; second, the fellow was too enthusiastic upon
+a subject that could not possibly interest him.  His "Barikallahs"
+and "Inshallahs" were far too fervid; his answers too much in
+accordance with our wishes.  The Doctor laid great stress on the
+report of a Mgwana he met far south, who stated that the grandfather
+or father of Rumanika, present King of Karagwah, had thought of
+excavating the bed of the Kitangule River, in order that his canoes
+might go to Ujiji to open a trade.  From this, I imagine, coinciding
+as it did with his often-expressed and present firm belief that the
+waters of the Tanganika had an outlet somewhere, the Doctor was
+partial to the report of the Mgwana; but as we proceed we shall see
+how all this will end.
+
+On the ninth morning from Ujiji, about two hours after sunrise, we
+passed the broad delta of the Mugere, a river which gives its name
+also to the district on the eastern shore ruled over by Mukamba.
+We had come directly opposite the most southern of its three
+mouths, when we found quite a difference in the colour of the water.
+An almost straight line, drawn east and west from the mouth would
+serve well to mark off the difference that existed between the waters.
+On the south side was pure water of a light green, on the north side
+it was muddy, and the current could be distinctly seen flowing north.
+Soon after passing the first mouth we came to a second, and then a
+third mouth, each only a few yards broad, but each discharging
+sufficient water to permit our following the line of the currents
+several rods north beyond the respective mouths.
+
+Beyond the third mouth of the Mugere a bend disclosed itself, with
+groups of villages beyond on its bank.  These were Mukamba's, and
+in one of them lived Mukamba, the chief.  The natives had yet never
+seen a white man, and, of course, as soon as we landed we were
+surrounded by a large concourse, all armed with long spears--the
+only weapon visible amongst them save a club-stick, and here and
+there a hatchet.
+
+We were shown into a hut, which the Doctor and I shared between
+us.  What followed on that day I have but a dim recollection,
+having been struck down by fever--the first since leaving
+Unyanyembe.  I dimly recollect trying to make out what age Mukamba
+might be, and noting that he was good-looking withal, and
+kindly-disposed towards us.  And during the intervals of agony and
+unconsciousness, I saw, or fancied I saw, Livingstone's form moving
+towards me, and felt, or fancied I felt, Livingstone's hand
+tenderly feeling my hot head and limbs.  I had suffered several
+fevers between Bagamoyo and Unyanyembe, without anything or anybody
+to relieve me of the tedious racking headache and pain, or to
+illumine the dark and gloomy prospect which must necessarily
+surround the bedside of the sick and solitary traveller.  But
+though this fever, having enjoyed immunity from it for three
+months, was more severe than usual, I did not much regret its
+occurrence, since I became the recipient of the very tender and
+fatherly kindness of the good man whose companion I now found
+myself.
+
+The next morning, having recovered slightly from the fever, when
+Mukamba came with a present of an ox, a sheep, and a goat, I was
+able to attend to the answers which he gave to the questions about
+the Rusizi River and the head of the lake.  The ever cheerful and
+enthusiastic Mgwana was there also, and he was not a whit abashed,
+when, through him, the chief told us that the Rusizi, joined by
+the Ruanda, or Luanda, at a distance of two days' journey by
+water, or one day by land from the head of the lake, flowed INTO
+the lake.
+
+Thus our hopes, excited somewhat by the positive and repeated
+assurances that the river flowed out away towards Karagwah,
+collapsed as speedily as they were raised.
+
+We paid Mukamba the honga, consisting of nine doti and nine fundo
+of samsam, lunghio, muzurio n'zige.  The printed handkerchiefs,
+which I had in abundance at Unyanyembe, would have gone well here.
+After receiving his present, the chief introduced his son, a tall
+youth of eighteen or thereabouts, to the Doctor, as a would-be son
+of the Doctor; but, with a good-natured laugh, the Doctor scouted
+all such relationship with him, as it was instituted only for the
+purpose of drawing more cloth out of him.  Mukamba took it in good
+part, and did not insist on getting more.
+
+Our second evening at Mukamba's, Susi, the Doctor's servant, got
+gloriously drunk, through the chief's liberal and profuse gifts
+of pombe.  Just at dawn neat morning I was awakened by hearing
+several sharp, crack-like sounds.  I listened, and I found the
+noise was in our hut.  It was caused by the Doctor, who, towards
+midnight, had felt some one come and lie down by his side on the
+same bed, and, thinking it was me, he had kindly made room, and
+laid down on the edge of the bed.  But in the morning, feeling
+rather cold, he had been thoroughly awakened, and, on rising on
+his elbow to see who his bed-fellow was, he discovered, to his
+great astonishment, that it was no other than his black servant,
+Susi, who taking possession of his blankets, and folding them about
+himself most selfishly, was occupying almost the whole bed.  The
+Doctor, with that gentleness characteristic of him, instead of
+taking a rod, had contented himself with slapping Susi on the back,
+saying, "Get up, Susi, will you?  You are in my bed.  How dare you,
+sir, get drunk in this way, after I have told you so often not to.
+Get up.  You won't?  Take that, and that, and that."  Still Susi
+slept and grunted; so the slapping continued, until even Susi's
+thick hide began to feel it, and he was thoroughly awakened to the
+sense of his want of devotion and sympathy for his master in the
+usurping of even his master's bed.  Susi looked very much
+crestfallen after this exposé of his infirmity before the "little
+master," as I was called.
+
+The next day at dusk--Mukamba having come to bid us good-bye, and
+requested that as soon as we reached his brother Ruhinga, whose
+country was at the head of the lake, we would send our canoe back
+for him, and that in the meanwhile we should leave two of our men
+with him, with their guns, to help defend him in case Warumashanya
+should attack him as soon as we were gone--we embarked and pulled
+across.  In nine hours we had arrived at the head of the lake in
+Mugihewa, the country of Ruhinga; Mukamba's elder brother.  In
+looking back to where we had come from we perceived that we had
+made a diagonal cut across from south-east to north-west, instead
+of having made a direct east and west course; or, in other words,
+from Mugere--which was at least ten miles from the northernmost
+point of the eastern shore--we had come to Mugihewa, situated at
+the northernmost point of the western shore.  Had we continued
+along the eastern shore, and so round the northern side of the lake,
+we should have passed by Mukanigi, the country of Warumashanya,
+and Usumbura of Simveh, his ally and friend.  But by making a
+diagonal course, as just described, we had arrived at the extreme
+head of the lake without any difficulty.
+
+The country in which we now found ourselves, Mugihewa, is situated
+in the delta of the Rusizi River.  It is an extremely flat
+country, the highest part of which is not ten feet above the lake,
+with numerous depressions in it overgrown with the rankest of
+matete-grass and the tallest of papyrus, and pond-like hollows,
+filled with stagnant water, which emit malaria wholesale.  Large
+herds of cattle are reared on it; for where the ground is not
+covered with marshy plants it produces rich, sweet grass.  The sheep
+and goats, especially the former, are always in good condition; and
+though they are not to be compared with English or American sheep,
+they are the finest I have seen in Africa.  Numerous villages are
+seen on this land because the intervening spaces are not occupied
+with the rank and luxuriant jungle common in other parts of Africa.
+Were it not for the Euphorbia kolquall of Abyssinia--which some
+chief has caused to be planted as a defence round the villages--
+one might see from one end of Mugihewa to the other.  The waters
+along the head of the lake, from the western to the eastern shores,
+swarm with crocodiles.  From the banks, I counted ten heads of
+crocodiles, and the Rusizi, we were told, was full of them.
+
+Ruhinga, who came to see us soon after we had taken up our quarters
+in his village, was a most amiable man, who always contrived to see
+something that excited his risibility; though older by five or
+six years perhaps--he said he was a hundred years old--than Mukamba,
+he was not half so dignified, nor regarded with so much admiration
+by his people as his younger brother.  Ruhinga had a better
+knowledge, however, of the country than Mukamba, and an admirable
+memory, and was able to impart his knowledge of the country
+intelligently.  After he had done the honours as chief to us--
+presented us with an ox and a sheep, milk and honey--we were not
+backward in endeavouring to elicit as much information as possible
+out of him.
+
+The summary of the information derived from Ruhinga may be stated
+as follows:
+
+The country bordering the head of the lake from Urundi proper,
+on the eastern shore, to Uvira on the western, is divided into the
+following districts:
+1st. Mugere, governed by Mukamba, through which issued into the lake
+the small rivers of Mugere and Mpanda.
+2nd. Mukanigi, governed by Warumashanya, which occupied the whole
+of the north-eastern head of the lake, through which issued into
+the lake the small rivers of Karindwa and Mugera wa Kanigi.
+3rd. On the eastern half of the district, at the head of the lake,
+was Usumbura, governed by Simveh, ally and friend of Warumashanya,
+extending to the eastern bank of the Rusizi.
+4th. Commencing from the western bank of the Rusizi, to the extreme
+north-western head of the lake, was Mugihewa--Ruhinga's country.
+5th. From Uvira on the west, running north past Mugihewa, and
+overlapping it on the north side as far as the hills of Chamati,
+was Ruwenga, also a country governed by Mukamba.  Beyond Ruwenga,
+from the hills of Chamati to the Ruanda River, was the country of
+Chamati.  West of Ruwenga, comprising all the mountains for two
+days' journey in that direction, was Uashi.  These are the
+smaller sub-divisions of what is commonly known as Ruwenga and
+Usige.  Ruwenga comprises the countries of Ruwenga and Mugihewa;
+Usige, the countries of Usumbura, Mukanigi, and Mugere.  But all
+these countries are only part and parcel of Urundi, which
+comprises all that country bordering the lake from Mshala River,
+on the eastern shore, to Uvira, on the western, extending over
+ten days' journey direct north from the head of the lake, and
+one month in a northeastern direction to Murukuko, the capital
+of Mwezi, Sultan of all Urundi.  Direct north of Urundi is Ruanda;
+also a very large country.
+
+The Rusizi River--according to Ruhinga--rose near a lake called
+Kivo, which he said is as long as from Mugihawa to Mugere, and
+as broad as from Mugihewa to Warumashanya's country, or, say
+eighteen miles in length by about eight in breadth.  The lake is
+surrounded by mountains on the western and northern sides: on the
+south-western side of one of these mountains issues the Rusizi--at
+first a small rapid stream; but as it proceeds towards the lake it
+receives the rivers Kagunissi, Kaburan, Mohira, Nyamagana,
+Nyakagunda, Ruviro, Rofubu, Kavimvira, Myove, Ruhuha, Mukindu,
+Sange, Rubirizi, Kiriba, and, lastly, the Ruanda River, which seems
+to be the largest of them all.  Kivo Lake is so called from the
+country in which it is situated.  On one side is Mutumbi (probably
+the Utumbi of Speke and Baker), on the west is Ruanda; on the east
+is Urundi.  The name of the chief of Kivo is Kwansibura.
+
+After so many minute details about the River Rusizi, it only
+remained for us to see it.  On the second morning of our arrival
+at Mugihewa we mustered ten strong paddlers, and set out to explore
+the head of the lake and the mouth of the Rusizi.  We found that
+the northern head of the lake was indented with seven broad bays,
+each from one and a half to three miles broad; that long broad
+spits of sand, overgrown with matete, separated each bay from the
+other.  The first, starting from west to east, at the broadest part,
+to the extreme southern point of Mugihewa, was about three miles
+broad, and served as a line of demarcation between Mukamba's district
+of Ruwenga and Mugihewa of Ruhinga; it was also two miles deep.
+The second bay was a mile from the southern extremity of Mugihewa
+to Ruhinga's village at the head of the bay, and it was a mile
+across to another spit of sand which was terminated by a small
+island.  The third bay stretched for nearly a mile to a long spit,
+at the end of which was another island, one and a quarter mile
+in length, and was the western side of the fourth bay, at the
+head of which was the delta of the Rusizi.  This fourth bay, at
+its base, was about three miles in depth, and penetrated half
+a mile further inland than any other.  Soundings indicated six
+feet deep, and the same depth was kept to within a few hundred
+yards of the principal mouth of the Rusizi.  The current was
+very sluggish; not more than a mile an hour.  Though we
+constantly kept our binocular searching for the river, we
+could not see the main channel until within 200 yards of it,
+and then only by watching by what outlet the fishing; canoes came
+out.  The bay at this point had narrowed from two miles to about
+200 yards in breadth.  Inviting a canoe to show us the way, a
+small flotilla of canoes preceded us, from the sheer curiosity
+of their owners.  We followed, and in a few minutes were ascending
+the stream, which was very rapid, though but about ten yards wide,
+and very shallow; not more than two feet deep.  We ascended about
+half a mile, the current being very strong, from six to eight miles
+an hour, and quite far enough to observe the nature of the stream
+at its embouchure.  We could see that it widened and spread out in
+a myriad of channels, rushing by isolated clumps of sedge and
+matete grass; and that it had the appearance of a swamp.  We had
+ascended the central, or main channel.  The western channel was
+about eight yards broad.  We observed, after we had returned to
+the bay, that the easternmost channel was about six yards broad,
+and about ten feet deep, but very sluggish.  We had thus examined
+each of its three mouths, and settled all doubts as to the Rusizi
+being an effluent or influent.  It was not necessary to ascend
+higher, there being nothing about the river itself to repay
+exploration of it.
+
+The question, "Was the Rusizi an effluent or an influent?" was
+answered for ever.  There was now no doubt any more on that point.
+In size it was not to be compared with the Malagarazi River,
+neither is it, or can it be, navigable for anything but the smallest
+canoes.  The only thing remarkable about it is that it abounds in
+crocodiles, but not one hippopotamus was seen; which may be taken
+as another evidence of its shallowness.  The bays to the east of
+the Rusizi are of the same conformation as those on the west.
+Carefully judging from the width of the several bays from point
+to point, and of the several spits which separate them, the breadth
+of the lake may be said to be about twelve or fourteen miles.  Had
+we contented ourselves with simply looking at the conformation,
+and the meeting of the eastern and western ranges, we should have
+said that the lake ended in a point, as Captain Speke has sketched
+it on his map.  But its exploration dissolved that idea.  Chamati
+Hill is the extreme northern termination of the western range,
+and seems, upon a superficial examination, to abut against the Ramata
+mountains of the eastern range, which are opposite Chamati; but a
+valley about a mile in breadth separates the two ranges, and
+through this valley the Rusizi flows towards the lake.*  Though
+Chamati terminates the western range, the eastern range continues
+for miles beyond, north-westerly.  After its issue from this broad
+gorge, the Rusizi runs seemingly in a broad and mighty stream,
+through a wide alluvial plain, its own formation, in a hundred
+channels, until, approaching the lake, it flows into it by three
+channels only, as above described.
+______________
+*  After the patient investigation of the North end of the Lake,
+and satisfying ourselves by personal observation that the Rusizi
+ran into the Lake, the native rumor which Sir Samuel Baker brought
+home that the Tanganika and the Albert N'Yanza have a water
+connection still finds many believers!
+______________
+
+I should not omit to state here, that though the Doctor and I have
+had to contend against the strong current of the Rusizi River, as
+it flowed swift and strong INTO the Tanganika, the Doctor still
+adheres to the conviction that, whatever part the Rusizi plays,
+there must be an outlet to the Tanganika somewhere, from the fact
+that all fresh-water lakes have outlets, The Doctor is able to state
+his opinions and reasons far better than I can find for him; and,
+lest I misconstrue the subject, I shall leave it until he has an
+opportunity to explain them himself; which his great knowledge of
+Africa will enable him to do with advantage.
+
+One thing is evident to me, and I believe to the Doctor, that Sir
+Samuel Baker will have to curtail the Albert N'Yanza by one, if
+not two degrees of latitude.  That well-known traveller has drawn
+his lake far into the territory of the Warundi, while Ruanda has
+been placed on the eastern side; whereas a large portion of it,
+if not all, should be placed north of what he has designated on
+his map as Usige.  The information of such an intelligent man as
+Ruhinga is not to be despised; for, if Lake Albert came within a
+hundred miles of the Tanganika, he would surely have heard of its
+existence, even if he had not seen it himself.  Originally he came
+from Mutumbi, and he has travelled from that country into Mugihewa,
+the district he now governs.  He has seen Mwezi, the great King of
+Urundi, and describes him as a man about forty years old, and as a
+very good man.
+
+Our work was now done; there was nothing more to detain us at
+Mugihewa.  Ruhinga had been exceedingly kind, and given us one
+ox after another to butcher and eat.  Mukamba had done the same.
+Their women had supplied us with an abundance of milk and butter,
+and we had now bounteous supplies of both.
+
+The Doctor had taken a series of observations for latitude and
+longitude; and Mugihewa was made out to be in 3 degrees 19 minutes
+S. latitude.
+
+On the 7th December, early in the morning, we left Mugihewa, and
+rowing past the southern extremity of the Katangara Islands, we
+approached the highlands of Uashi near the boundary line between
+Mukamba's country and Uvira.  The boundary line is supposed to be
+a wide ravine, in the depths of which is a grove of tall, beautiful,
+and straight-stemmed trees, out of which the natives make their canoes.
+
+Passing Kanyamabengu River, which issues into the lake close to the
+market-ground of Kirabula, the extreme point of Burton and Speke's
+explorations of the Tanganika, we steered south along the western
+shore of the lake for half an hour longer to Kavimba, where we
+halted to cook breakfast.
+
+The village where lived Mruta, the King of Uvira, was in sight of
+our encampment, and as we observed parties of men ascending and
+descending the mountains much more often than we thought augured
+good to ourselves, we determined to continue on our course south.
+Besides, there was a party of disconsolate-looking Wajiji here,
+who had been plundered only a few days before our arrival, for
+attempting, as the Wavira believed, to evade the honga payment.
+Such facts as these, and our knowledge of the general state of
+insecurity in the country, resulting from the many wars in which
+the districts of the Tanganika were engaged, determined us not to
+halt at Kavimba.
+
+We embarked quickly in our boat before the Wavira had collected
+themselves, and headed south against a strong gale, which came
+driving down on us from the south-west.  After a hard pull of about
+two hours in the teeth of the storm, which was rapidly rising, we
+pointed the head of the boat into a little quiet cove, almost
+hidden in tall reeds, and disembarked for the night.
+
+Cognizant of the dangers which surrounded us, knowing, that savage
+and implacable man was the worst enemy we had to fear, we employed
+our utmost energies in the construction of a stout fence of thorn
+bushes, and then sat down to supper after our work was done, and
+turned in to sleep; but not before we had posted watchmen to guard
+our canoe, lest the daring thieves of Uvira might abstract it, in
+which case we should have been in a pretty plight, and in most
+unenviable distress.
+
+At daybreak, leaving Kukumba Point after our humble breakfast of
+coffee, cheese, and dourra cakes was despatched, we steered south
+once more.  Our fires had attracted the notice of the sharp-eyed
+and suspicious fishermen of Kukumba; but our precautions and the
+vigilant watch we had set before retiring, had proved an effectual
+safeguard against the Kivira thieves.
+
+The western shores of the lake as we proceeded were loftier, and
+more bold than the wooded heights of Urundi and bearded knolls of
+Ujiji.  A back ridge--the vanguard of the mountains which rise
+beyond--disclosed itself between the serrated tops of the front
+line of mountains, which rose to a height of from 2,500 to 3,000
+feet above the lake.  Within the folds of the front line of
+mountains rise isolated hills of considerable magnitude, precipitous
+and abrupt, but scenically very picturesque.  The greater part of
+these hills have the rounded and smooth top, or are tabularly
+summited.  The ridge enfolding these hills shoots out, at intervals,
+promontorial projections of gradual sloping outlines, which on the
+map I have designated capes, or points.  When rounding these points,
+up went our compasses for the taking of bearings, and observing
+the directions of all prominent objects of interest.  Often these
+capes are formed by the alluvial plains, through which we may be
+sure a river will be found flowing.  These pretty alluvial plains,
+enfolded on the south, the west, and the north by a grand mountain
+arc, present most luxurious and enchanting scenery.  The vegetation
+seems to be of spontaneous growth.  Groups of the Elaeis Guineansis
+palm embowering some dun-brown village; an array of majestic,
+superb growth of mvule trees; a broad extent covered with vivid
+green sorghum stalks; parachute-like tops of mimosa; a line of white
+sand, on which native canoes are drawn far above the reach of the
+plangent, uneasy surf; fishermen idly reclining in the shade of a
+tree;--these are the scenes which reveal themselves to us as we
+voyage in our canoe on the Tanganika.  When wearied with the romance
+of wild tropic scenes such as these, we have but to lift our eyes
+to the great mountain tops looming darkly and grandly on our right;
+to watch the light pencilling of the cirrus, brushing their summits,
+as it is drifted toward the north by the rising wind: to watch the
+changing forms which the clouds assume, from the fleecy horizontal
+bars of the cirrus, to the denser, gloomier cumulus, prognosticator
+of storm and rain, which soon settles into a portentous group--Alps
+above Alps, one above another--and we know the storm which was
+brewing is at hand, and that it is time to seek shelter.
+
+Passing Muikamba, we saw several groves of the tall mvule tree.
+As far as Bemba the Wabembe occupy the mountain summits, while
+the Wavira cultivate the alluvial plains along the base and lower
+slopes of the mountain.  At Bemba we halted to take in pieces of
+pipe-clay, in accordance with the superstition of the Wajiji, who
+thought us certain of safe passage and good fortune if we complied
+with the ancient custom.
+
+Passing Ngovi, we came to a deep bend, which curved off to Cape
+Kabogi at the distance of ten miles.  About two-thirds of the way
+we arrived at a group of islets, three in number, all very steep
+and rocky; the largest about 300 feet in length at the base, and
+about 200 feet in breadth.  Here we made preparations to halt for
+the night.  The inhabitants of the island were a gorgeously-feathered
+old cock, which was kept as a propitiatory offering to the spirit
+of the island, a sickly yellow-looking thrush, a hammer-headed
+stork, and two fish-hawks, who, finding we had taken possession of
+what had been religiously reserved for them, took flight to the
+most western island, where from their perches they continued
+to eye us most solemnly.  As these islands were with difficulty
+pronounced by us as Kavunvweh, the Doctor, seeing that they were
+the only objects we were likely to discover, named them the
+"'New York Herald' Islets;" and, in confirmation of the new
+designation given them, shook hands with me upon it.  Careful
+dead-reckoning settled them to be in lat. 3 degrees 41 minutes S.
+
+The summit of the largest island was well adapted to take bearings,
+and we improved the opportunity, as most extensive views of the
+broad and lengthy lake and surrounding lines of imposing mountains
+were attainable.  The Ramata Hills were clearly visible, and bore
+N.N.E. from it; Katanga Cape, S.E. by S.; Sentakeyi, E.S.E.;
+Magala, E. by N.; south-western point of Muzimu bore S., northern
+point of Muzimu island, S.S.E.
+
+At dawn on the 9th December we prepared to resume our voyage.
+Once or twice in the night we had been visited by fishermen, but
+our anxious watchfulness prevented any marauding.  It seemed to me,
+however, that the people of the opposite shore, who were our
+visitors, were eagerly watching an opportunity to pounce upon
+our canoe, or take us bodily for a prey; and our men were
+considerably affected by these thoughts, if we may judge from
+the hearty good-will with which they rowed away from our late
+encampment.
+
+Arriving at Cape Kabogi, we came to the territory of the Wasansi.
+We knew we were abreast of a different tribe by the greeting
+"Moholo," which a group of fishermen gave us; as that of the
+Wavira was "Wake," like that of Urundi, Usige, and Uhha.
+
+We soon sighted Cape Luvumba--a sloping projection of a mountain
+ridge which shot far into the lake.  As a storm was brewing, we
+steered for a snug little cove that appeared before a village;
+and, drawing our canoe from the water, began to set the tent, and
+make other preparations for passing the night.
+
+As the natives appeared quiet and civil enough, we saw no reason
+to suspect that they entertained any hostility to Arabs and
+Wangwana.  Accordingly we had our breakfast cooked, and as usual
+laid down for an afternoon nap.  I soon fell asleep, and was
+dreaming away in my tent, in happy oblivion of the strife and
+contention that had risen since I had gone to sleep, when I heard
+a voice hailing me with, "Master, master! get up, quick.  Here
+is a fight going to begin!"  I sprang up, and snatching my revolver
+belt from the gun-stand, walked outside.  Surely, there appeared to
+be considerable animus between the several factions; between a
+noisy, vindictive-looking set of natives of the one part, and our
+people of the other part.  Seven or eight of our people had taken
+refuge behind the canoe, and had their loaded guns half pointing at
+the passionate mob, which was momentarily increasing in numbers,
+but I could not see the Doctor anywhere.
+
+"Where is the Doctor?" I asked.
+
+"He has gone over that hill, sir, with his compass," said Selim.
+
+"Anybody with him?"
+
+"Susi and Chumah."
+
+"You, Bombay, send two men off to warn the Doctor, and tell him
+to hurry up here."
+
+But just at this period the Doctor and his two men appeared on the
+brow of the hill, looking down in a most complacent manner upon the
+serio-comic scene that the little basin wherein we were encamped
+presented.  For, indeed, despite the serious aspect of it, there
+was much that was comical blended with it--in a naked young man
+who--perfectly drunk, barely able to stand on his feet--was beating
+the ground with his only loin-cloth, screaming and storming away
+like a madman; declaring by this, and by that, in his own choice
+language, that no Mgwana or Arab should halt one moment on the
+sacred soil of Usansi.  His father, the Sultan, was as inebriated
+as himself, though not quite so violent in his behaviour.  In the
+meantime the Doctor arrived upon the scene, and Selim had slipped
+my Winchester rifle, with the magazine full of cartridges, into my
+hand.  The Doctor calmly asked what was the matter, and was
+answered by the Wajiji guides that the people wished us to leave,
+as they were on hostile terms with the Arabs, because the eldest
+son of the Sultan of Muzimu, the large island nearly opposite, had
+been beaten to death by a Baluch, named Khamis, at Ujiji, because
+the young fellow had dared look into his harem, and ever since
+peace had been broken between the Wasansi and Arabs.
+
+After consulting with the guides, the Doctor and I came to the
+conclusion that it were better that we should endeavour to pacify
+the Sultan by a present, rather than take offence at a drunken boy's
+extravagant freak.  In his insane fury he had attempted to slash at
+one of my men with a billhook he carried.  This had been taken as
+a declaration of hostilities, and the soldiers were ready enough
+to engage in war; but there was no necessity to commence fighting
+with a drunken mob, who could have been cleared off the ground
+with our revolvers alone had we desired it.
+
+The Doctor, baring his arm, said to them that he was not a Mgwana,
+or an Arab; but a white man; that Arabs and Wangwana had no such
+colour as we had.  We were white men, different people altogether
+from those whom they were accustomed to see: that no black men
+had ever suffered injury from white men.  This seemed to produce
+great effect, for after a little gentle persuasion the drunken
+youth, and his no less inebriate sire, were induced to sit down
+to talk quietly.  In their conversation with us, they frequently
+referred to Mombo, the son of Kisesa, Sultan of Muzimu, who was
+brutally murdered.  "Yes, brutally murdered!" they exclaimed
+several times, in their own tongue; illustrating, by a faithful
+pantomime, how the unfortunate youth had died.
+
+Livingstone continued talking with them in a mild, paternal way,
+and their loud protestations against Arab cruelty were about to
+subside, when the old Sultan suddenly rose up and began to pace
+about in an excited manner, and in one of his perambulations
+deliberately slashed his leg with the sharp blade of his spear,
+and then exclaimed that the Wangwana had wounded him!
+
+At this cry one half of the mob hastily took to flight, but one
+old woman, who carried a strong staff with a carved lizard's body
+on its top, commenced to abuse the chief with all the power of her
+voluble tongue, charging him with a desire to have them all killed,
+and other women joined in with her in advising him to be quiet,
+and accept the present we were willing to give.
+
+But it is evident that there was little needed to cause all men
+present in that little hollow to begin a most sanguinary strife.
+The gentle, patient bearing of the Doctor had more effect than
+anything else in making all forbear bloodshed, while there was
+left the least chance of an amicable settlement, and in the end
+it prevailed.  The Sultan and his son were both sent on their way
+rejoicing.
+
+While the Doctor conversed with them, and endeavoured to calm their
+fierce passions, I had the tent struck, and the canoes launched,
+and the baggage stowed, and when the negotiations had concluded
+amicably, I begged the Doctor to jump into the boat, as this
+apparent peace was simply a lull before a storm; besides, said I,
+there are two or three cowardly creatures in the boat, who, in
+case of another disturbance, would not scruple to leave both of us
+here.
+
+From Cape Luvumba, about 4.30 P.M. we commenced pulling across;
+at 8 P.M. we were abreast of Cape Panza, the northern extremity
+of the island of Muzimu; at 6 A.M. we were southward of Bikari,
+and pulling for Mukungu, in Urundi, at which place we arrived at
+10 A.M., having been seventeen hours and a half in crossing the
+lake, which, computing at two miles an hour, may be said to be
+thirty-five miles direct breadth, and a little more than
+forty-three miles from Cape Luvumba.
+
+On the 11th of December, after seven hours' pulling, we arrived at
+picturesque Zassi again; on the 12th, at the pretty cove of Niasanga;
+and at 11 A.M. we had rounded past Bangwe, and Ujiji was before us.
+
+We entered the port very quietly, without the usual firing of
+guns, as we were short of powder and ball.  As we landed, our
+soldiers and the Arab magnates came to the water's edge to greet
+us.
+
+Mabruki had a rich budget to relate to us, of what had occurred
+during our absence.  This faithful man, left behind in charge of
+Livingstone's house, had done most excellently.  Kalulu had scalded
+himself, and had a frightful raw sore on his chest in consequence.
+Mabruki had locked up Marora in chains for wounding one of the
+asses.  Bilali, the stuttering coward, a bully of women, had
+caused a tumult in the market-place, and had been sharply
+belaboured with the stick by Mabruki.  And, above all most
+welcome, was a letter I received from the American Consul at
+Zanzibar, dated June 11th, containing telegrams from Paris as late
+as April 22nd of the same year!  Poor Livingstone exclaimed, "And
+I have none.  What a pleasant thing it is to have a real and good
+friend!"
+
+Our voyage on the Tanganika had lasted twenty-eight days, during
+which time we had traversed over 300 miles of water.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIV.  OUR JOURNEY FROM UJIJI TO UNYANYEMBE.
+
+
+We felt quite at home when we sat down on our black bear-skin, gay
+Persian carpet and clean new mats, to rest with our backs to the
+wall, sipping our tea with the air of comfortable men, and chat
+over the incidents of the "picnic," as Livingstone persisted in
+calling our journey to the Rusizi.  It seemed as if old times,
+which we loved to recall, had come back again, though our house
+was humble enough in its aspect, and our servants were only naked
+barbarians; but it was near this house that I had met him--
+Livingstone--after that eventful march from Unyanyembe; it was on
+this same veranda that I listened to that wonderful story of his
+about those far, enchanting regions west of the Lake Tanganika;
+it was in this same spot that I first became acquainted with him;
+and ever since my admiration has been growing for him, and I feel
+elated when he informs me that he must go to Unyanyembe under my
+escort, and at my expense.  The old mud walls and the bare rafters,
+and the ancient thatched roof, and this queer-looking old veranda,
+will have an historical interest for me while I live, and so, while
+I can, I have taken pains and immortalized the humble old building
+by a sketch.
+
+I have just said that my admiration for Livingstone has been
+growing.  This is true.  The man that I was about to interview
+so calmly and complacently, as I would interview any prominent
+man with the view of specially delineating his nature, or detailing
+his opinions, has conquered me.  I had intended to interview him,
+report in detail what he said, picture his life and his figure,
+then bow him my "au revoir," and march back.  That he was specially
+disagreeable and brusque in his manner, which would make me quarrel
+with him immediately, was firmly fixed in my mind.
+
+But Livingstone--true, noble Christian, generous-hearted, frank
+man--acted like a hero, invited me to his house, said he was glad
+to see me, and got well on purpose to prove the truth of his
+statement, "You have brought new life unto me;" and when I fell
+sick with the remittent fever, hovering between life and death,
+he attended me like a father, and we have now been together for
+more than a month.
+
+Can you wonder, then, that I like this man, whose face is the
+reflex of his nature, whose heart is essentially all goodness,
+whose aims are so high, that I break out impetuously sometimes:
+"But your family, Doctor, they would like to see you, oh! so much.
+Let me tempt you to come home with me.  I promise to carry you
+every foot of the way to the coast.  You shall have the finest
+donkey to ride that is in Unyanyembe.  Your wants--you have but
+to hint them, and they shall be satisfied.  Let the sources of
+the Nile go--do you come home and rest; then, after a year's rest,
+and restored health, you can return and finish what you have to do."
+
+But ever the answer was, "No, I should like to see my family
+very much indeed.  My children's letters affect me intensely;
+but I must not go home; I must finish my task.  It is only the
+want of supplies that has detained me.  I should have finished
+the discovery of the Nile by this, by tracing it to its connection
+with either Baker's Lake, or Petherick's branch of the Nile.  If
+I had only gone one month further, I could have said, 'the work
+is done."'
+
+Some of these men who had turned the Doctor back from his
+interesting discoveries were yet in Ujiji, and had the Government
+Enfield rifles in their hands, which they intended to retain until
+their wages had been paid to them; but as they had received $60
+advance each at Zanzibar from the English Consul, with the
+understanding entered into by contract that they should follow
+their master wherever he required them to go; and as they had
+not only not gone where they were required to proceed with him,
+but had baffled and thwarted him, it was preposterous that a few
+men should triumph over the Doctor, by keeping the arms given to
+him by the Bombay Government.  I had listened to the Arab
+sheikhs, friends of the Doctor, advising them in mild tones to give
+them up; I had witnessed the mutineer's stubbornness; and it was
+then, on the burzani of Sayd bin Majid's house, that I took
+advantage to open my mind on the subject, not only for the
+benefit of the stubborn slaves, but also for the benefit of the
+Arabs; and to tell them that it was well that I had found
+Livingstone alive, for if they had but injured a hair of his head,
+I should have gone back to the coast, to return with a party which
+would enable me to avenge him.  I had been waiting to see
+Livingstone's guns returned to him every day, hoping that I should
+not have to use force; but when a month or more had elapsed, and
+still the arms had not been returned, I applied for permission to
+take them, which was granted.  Susi, the gallant servant of Dr.
+Livingstone, was immediately despatched with about a dozen armed
+men to recover them, and in a few minutes we had possession of them
+without further trouble.
+
+The Doctor had resolved to accompany me to Unyanyembe, in order to
+meet his stores, which had been forwarded from Zanzibar, November
+1st, 1870.  As I had charge of the escort, it was my duty to
+study well the several routes to Unyanyembe from Ujiji.  I was
+sufficiently aware of the difficulties and the responsibilities
+attached to me while escorting such a man.  Besides, my own
+personal feelings were involved in the case.  If Livingstone
+came to any harm through any indiscretion of mine while he was
+with me, it would immediately be said, "Ah! had he not
+accompanied Stanley, he would have been alive now."
+
+I took out my chart--the one I had made myself--in which I had
+perfect faith, and I sketched out a route which would enable us
+to reach Unyanyembe without paying a single cloth as tribute,
+and without encountering any worse thing than a jungle, by which
+we could avoid all the Wavinza and the plundering Wahha.  This
+peaceable, secure route led by water, south, along the coast of
+Ukaranga and Ukawendi, to Cape Tongwe.  Arriving at Cape Tongwe,
+I should be opposite the village of Itaga, Sultan Imrera, in the
+district of Rusawa of Ukawendi; after which we should strike my
+old road, which I had traversed from Unyanyembe, when bound for
+Ujiji.  I explained it to the Doctor, and he instantly recognised
+its feasibility and security; and if I struck Imrera, as I
+proposed to do, it would demonstrate whether my chart was correct
+or not.
+
+We arrived at Ujiji from our tour of discovery, north of the
+Tanganika, December 13th; and from this date the Doctor commenced
+writing his letters to his numerous friends, and to copy into his
+mammoth Letts's Diary, from his field books, the valuable
+information he had acquired during his years of travel south and
+west of the Tanganika.  I sketched him while sitting in his
+shirt-sleeves in the veranda, with his Letts's Diary on his knee;
+and the likeness on the frontispiece is an admirable portrait of
+him, because the artist who has assisted me, has with an intuitive
+eye, seen the defects in my own sketch; and by this I am enabled
+to restore him to the reader's view exactly as I saw him--as he
+pondered on what he had witnessed during his long marches.
+
+Soon after my arrival at Ujiji, he had rushed to his paper, and
+indited a letter to James Gordon Bennett, Esq., wherein he
+recorded his thanks; and after he had finished it, I asked him
+to add the word "Junior" to it, as it was young Mr. Bennett to
+whom he was indebted.  I thought the letter admirable, and
+requested the Doctor not to add another word to it.  The feelings
+of his heart had found expression in the grateful words he had
+written; and if I judged Mr. Bennett rightly, I knew he would
+be satisfied with it.  For it was not the geographical news he
+cared so much about, as the grand fact of Livingstone's being
+alive or dead.
+
+In this latter part of December he was writing letters to his
+children, to Sir Roderick Murchison, and to Lord Granville.
+He had intended to have written to the Earl of Clarendon, but
+it was my sad task to inform him of the death of that
+distinguished nobleman.
+
+In the meantime I was preparing the Expedition for its return
+march to Unyanyembe, apportioning the bales and luggage, the
+Doctor's large tin boxes, and my own among my own men; for I
+had resolved upon permitting the Doctor's men to march as
+passengers, because they had so nobly performed their duty
+to their master.
+
+Sayd bin Majid had left, December 12, for Mirambo's country,
+to give the black Bonaparte battle for the murder of his son
+Soud in the forests of Wilyankuru; and he had taken with him 300
+stout fellows, armed with guns, from Ujiji.  The stout-hearted
+old chief was burning with rage and resentment, and a fine warlike
+figure he made with his 7-foot gun.  Before we had departed for
+the Rusizi, I had wished him bon voyage, and expressed a hope
+that he would rid the Central African world of the tyrant Mirambo.
+
+On the 20th of December the rainy season was ushered in with heavy
+rain, thunder, lightning, and hail; the thermometer falling to
+66 degrees Fahrenheit.  The evening of this day I was attacked with
+urticaria, or "nettle rash," for the third time since arriving in
+Africa, and I suffered a woeful sickness; and it was the forerunner
+of an attack of remittent fever, which lasted four days.  This is
+the malignant type, which has proved fatal to so many African
+travellers on the Zambezi, the White Nile, the Congo, and the Niger.
+The head throbs, the pulses bound, the heart struggles painfully,
+while the sufferer's thoughts are in a strange world, such only as
+a sick man's fancy can create.  This was the fourth attack of
+fever since the day I met Livingstone.  The excitement of the
+march, and the high hope which my mind constantly nourished,
+had kept my body almost invincible against an attack of fever
+while advancing towards Ujiji; but two weeks after the great event
+had transpired my energies were relaxed, my mind was perfectly
+tranquil, and I became a victim.
+
+Christmas came, and the Doctor and I had resolved upon the blessed
+and time-honoured day being kept as we keep it in Anglo-Saxon
+lands, with a feast such as Ujiji could furnish us.  The fever had
+quite gone from me the night before, and on Christmas morning,
+though exceedingly weak, I was up and dressed, and lecturing
+Ferajji, the cook, upon the importance of this day to white men,
+and endeavouring to instil into the mind of the sleek and pampered
+animal some cunning secrets of the culinary art.  Fat broad-tailed
+sheep, goats, zogga and pombe, eggs, fresh milk, plantains, singwe,
+fine cornflour, fish, onions, sweet potatoes, &c., &c., were
+procured in the Ujiji market, and from good old Moeni Kheri.
+But, alas! for my weakness.  Ferajji spoiled the roast, and our
+custard was burned--the dinner was a failure.  That the fat-brained
+rascal escaped a thrashing was due only to my inability to lift
+my hands for punishment; but my looks were dreadful and alarming,
+and capable of annihilating any one except Ferajji.  The stupid,
+hard-headed cook only chuckled, and I believe he had the subsequent
+gratification of eating the pies, custards, and roast that his
+carelessness had spoiled for European palates.
+
+Sayd bin Majid, previous to his departure, had left orders that
+we should be permitted to use his canoe for our homeward trip,
+and Moeni Kheri kindly lent his huge vessel for the same purpose.
+The Expedition, now augmented by the Doctor and his five servants,
+and their luggage, necessitated the employment of another canoe.
+We had our flocks of milch-goats and provision of fat sheep for
+the jungle of Ukawendi, the transit of which I was about to attempt.
+Good Halimah, Livingstone's cook, had made ready a sackful of fine
+flour, such as she only could prepare in her fond devotion for her
+master.  Hamoydah, her husband, also had freely given his
+assistance and attention to this important article of food.
+I purchased a donkey for the Doctor, the only one available in
+Ujiji, lest the Doctor might happen to suffer on the long march
+from his ancient enemy.  In short, we were luxuriously furnished
+with food, sheep, goats, cheese, cloth, donkeys, and canoes,
+sufficient to convey us a long distance; we needed nothing more.
+
+The 27th of December has arrived; it is the day of our departure
+from Ujiji.  I was probably about to give an eternal farewell to
+the port whose name will for ever be sacred in my memory.  The
+canoes--great lumbering hollow trees--are laden with good things;
+the rowers are in their places; the flag of England is hoisted at
+the stern of the Doctor's canoe; the flag of America waves and
+rustles joyously above mine; and I cannot look at them without
+feeling a certain pride that the two Anglo-Saxon nations are
+represented this day on this great inland sea, in the face of
+wild nature and barbarism.
+
+We are escorted to our boats by the great Arab merchants, by the
+admiring children of Unyamwezi, by the freemen of Zanzibar, by
+wondering Waguhha and Wajiji, by fierce Warundi, who are on this
+day quiet, even sorrowful, that the white men are going-"Whither?"
+they all ask.
+
+At 8 A.M. we start, freely distributing our farewells as the
+Arabs and quidnuncs wave their hands.  On the part of one or two
+of them there was an attempt to say something sentimental and
+affecting, especially by the convicted sinner Mohammed bin Sali;
+but though outwardly I manifested no disapprobation of his words,
+or of the emphatic way in which he shook my hand, I was not sorry
+to see the last of him, after his treachery to Livingstone in
+1869.  I was earnestly requested to convey to Unyanyembe "Mengi
+salaams" to everybody, but had I done so, as he evidently desired
+me to do, I would not have been surprised at being regarded by all
+as hopelessly imbecile.
+
+We pushed off from the clayey bank at the foot of the market-place,
+while the land party, unencumbered with luggage, under the
+leadership of gigantic Asmani and Bombay, commenced their journey
+southward along the shores of the lake.  We had arranged to meet them
+at the mouth of every river to transport them across from bank to bank.
+
+The Doctor being in Sayd bin Majid's boat, which was a third or so
+shorter than the one under my command, took the lead, with the
+British flag, held aloft by a bamboo, streaming behind like a
+crimson meteor.  My boat-manned by Wajiji sailors, whom we had
+engaged to take the canoes back from Tongwe Cape to Ujiji Bunder--
+came astern, and had a much taller flagstaff, on which was hoisted
+the ever-beautiful Stars and Stripes.  Its extreme height drew from
+the Doctor--whose patriotism and loyalty had been excited--the remark
+that he would cut down the tallest palmyra for his flagstaff, as it
+was not fitting that the British flag should be so much lower than
+that of the United States.
+
+Our soldiers were not a whit behind us in lightheartedness at the
+thought of going to Unyanyembe.  They struck up the exhilarating
+song of the Zanzibar boatmen, with the ecstatic chorus--
+
+Kinan de re re Kitunga,
+
+rowing away like madmen, until they were compelled to rest from
+sheer exhaustion, while the perspiration exuded from the pores of
+their bodies in streams.  When refreshed, they bent back to their
+oars, raising the song of the Mrima--
+
+O mama, re de mi Ky,
+
+which soon impelled them to an extravagant effort again, It was
+by this series of ferocious spurts, racing, shouting, singing,
+perspiring, laughing, groaning, and puffing, that our people vented
+their joyous feelings, as the thought filled their minds that we
+were homeward bound, and that by the route I had adopted between
+us and Unyanyembe there was not the least danger.
+
+  We have given the Waha, the slip! ha, ha!
+  The Wavinza will trouble us no more! ho! ho!
+Mionvu can get no more cloth from us! hy,by!
+And Kiala will see us no more---never more! he, he!
+
+they shouted with wild bursts of laughter, seconded by tremendous
+and rapid strokes with their oars, which caused the stiff old
+canoes to quiver from stem to stern.
+
+Our party ashore seemed to partake of our excitement, and joined
+in the wild refrain of the mad African song.  We watched them
+urging their steps forward to keep pace with us, as we rounded
+the capes and points, and rowed across the bays whose margins were
+sedge, and rush, and reed; the tiny and agile Kalulu, little
+Bilali, and Majwara were seen racing the herds of goats, sheep,
+and donkeys which belonged to the caravan, and the animals even
+seemed to share the general joy.
+
+Nature, also--proud, wild nature-0-with the lofty azure dome
+upheaved into infinity--with her breadth and depth of vivid
+greenness and enormous vastness on our left--with her immense
+sheet of bright, glancing water--with her awful and intense
+serenity--she partook of and added to our joy.
+
+About 10 A.M. we arrived at Kirindo's, an old chief, noted for his
+singular kindness to Dr. Livingstone, while he bore animosity to
+the Arabs.  To the Arabs this was unaccountable--to the Doctor it
+was plain: he had but spoken kind and sincere words, while all the
+Arabs spoke to him as if he were not even a man, least of all a
+chief.
+
+Kirindo's place is at the mouth of the Liuche, which is very wide;
+the river oozes out through a forest of eschinomenae (pith tree).
+This was a rendezvous agreed upon between shore and lake parties,
+that the canoes might all cross to the other side, distant a mile
+and a half.  The mouth of the Liuche forms the Bay of Ukaranga,
+so named because on the other side, whither we were about to cross
+our party, was situated the village of Ukaranga, a few hundred yards
+from the lake.  All the baggage was taken out of the largest canoe,
+and stowed snugly in the smaller one, and a few select oarsmen
+having taken seats, pushed off with the Doctor on board, who was
+to superintend pitching the encampment at Ukaranga; while I remained
+behind to bind the fractious and ill-natured donkeys, and stow
+them away in the bottom of the large canoe, that no danger of
+upsetting might be incurred, and a consequent gobbling-up by
+hungry crocodiles, which were all about us waiting their opportunity.
+The flock of goats were then embarked, and as many of our people
+as could be got in.  About thirty still remained behind with myself,
+for whom my canoe was to return.
+
+We all arrived safe at Ukaranga, though we got dangerously near
+a herd of hippopotami.  The crossing of the wide mouth (the Liuche
+being then in flood) was effected in about four hours.
+
+The next day, in the same order as on our departure from Ujiji,
+we pursued our way south, the lake party keeping as closely as
+possible to the shore, yet, when feasible, wind and weather
+permitting, we struck off boldly across the numerous small bays
+which indent the shores of the Tanganika.  The shores were
+beautifully green, the effect of the late rains; the waters of
+the lake were a faithful reflex of the blue firmament above.
+The hippopotami were plentiful.  Those noticed on this day were
+coloured with reddish rings round the base of their ears and on the
+neck.  One monster, coming up rather late, was surprised by the
+canoe making full for him, and in great fright took a tremendous
+dive which showed the whole length of his body.  Half way between
+the mouth of the Malagarazi and that of the Liuche we saw a camp
+on shore--that of Mohammed bin Gharib, a Msawahili, who figured
+often in Livingstone's verbal narrative to me of his adventures
+and travels as one of the kindest and best of the Moslems in
+Central Africa.  He appeared to me a kindly disposed man, with
+a face seldom seen, having the stamp of an unusual characteristic
+on it--that of sincerity.
+
+The vegetation of the shores as we proceeded was truly tropical,
+each curve revealed new beauties.  With the soft chalky stone, of
+which most of the cliffs and bluffs are made, seen as we neared
+the mouth of the Malagarazi, the surf has played strange freaks.
+
+We arrived at the mouth of the Malagarazi about P.M., having rowed
+eighteen miles from Ukaranga.  The shore party arrived, very much
+fatigued, about 5 P.M.
+
+The next day was employed in crossing the caravan across the broad
+mouth of the Malagarazi to our camp, a couple of miles north of the
+river.  This is a river which a civilised community would find of
+immense advantage for shortening the distance between the Tanganika
+and the coast.  Nearly one hundred miles might be performed by
+this river, which is deep enough at all seasons to allow navigation
+as far as Kiala, in Uvinza, whence a straight road might be easily
+made to Unyanyembe.  Missionaries also might reap the same benefit
+from it for conversion-tours to Uvinza, Uhha, and Ugala.  Pursuing
+our way on the 30th, and rounding the picturesque capes of
+Kagongo, Mviga and Kivoe, we came, after about three hours'
+rowing, in sight of villages at the mouth of the swift and turbid
+Rugufu.  Here we had again to transport the caravan ever the
+crocodile-infested mouth of the river.
+
+On the morning of the 31st we sent a canoe with men to search for
+food in the two or three villages that were visible on the other
+side.  Four doti purchased just sufficient for four days for our
+caravan of forty-eight persons.  We then got under weigh, having
+informed the kirangozi that Urimba was our destination, and bidding
+him keep as closely as possible to the lake shore, where it was
+practicable, but if not, to make the best he could of it.  From the
+debouchement of the Rugufu, the headwaters of which we had crossed
+on our random route to Ujiji, to Urimba, a distance of six days by
+water, there are no villages, and consequently no food.  The shore
+party, however, before leaving Ujiji, had eight days' rations,
+and on this morning four days', distributed to each person,
+and therefore was in no danger of starvation should the mountain
+headlands, now unfolding, abrupt and steep, one after another,
+prevent them from communicating with us.  It must be understood
+that such a journey as this had never been attempted before by
+any Arab or Msawahili, and every step taken was in sheer
+ignorance of where the road would lead the men ashore.  Rounding
+Kivoe's steep promontory, whose bearded ridge and rugged slope,
+wooded down to the water's edge, whose exquisite coves and quiet
+recesses, might well have evoked a poetical effusion to one so
+inclined, we dared the chopping waves of Kivoe's bay, and stood
+direct for the next cape, Mizohazy, behind which, owing to wind
+and wave, we were compelled to halt for the night.
+
+After Mizohazy is the bold cape of Kabogo--not the terrible Kabogo
+around whose name mystery has been woven by the superstitious
+natives--not the Kabogo whose sullen thunder and awful roar were
+heard when crossing the Rugufu on our flight from the Wahha---but
+a point in Ukaranga, on whose hard and uninviting rocks many a
+canoe has been wrecked.  We passed close to its forbidding walls,
+thankful for the calm of the Tanganika.  Near Kabogo are some very
+fine mvule trees, well adapted for canoe building, and there are no
+loud-mouthed natives about to haggle for the privilege of cutting
+them.
+
+Along the water's edge, and about three feet above it, was observed
+very clearly on the smooth face of the rocky slopes of Kabogo
+the high-water mark of the lake.  This went to show that the
+Tanganika, during the rainy season, rises about three feet above
+its dry season level, and that, during the latter season,
+evaporation reduces it to its normal level.  The number of rivers
+which we passed on this journey enabled me to observe whether, as
+I was told, there was any current setting north.  It was apparent
+to me that, while the south-west, south, or south-east winds blew,
+the brown flood of the rivers swept north; but it happened that,
+while passing, once or twice, the mouths of rivers, after a puff
+from the north-west and north, that the muddied waters were seen
+southward of the mouths; from which I conclude that there is no
+current in the Tanganika except such as is caused by the fickle
+wind.
+
+Finding a snug nook of a bay at a place called Sigunga, we put in
+for lunch.  An island at the mouth of the bay suggested to our
+minds that this was a beautiful spot for a mission station; the
+grandly sloping hills in the background, with an undulating shelf
+of land well-wooded between them and the bay, added to the
+attractions of such a spot.  The island, capable of containing
+quite a large village, and perfectly defensible, might, for
+prudence' sake, contain the mission and its congregation; the
+landlocked bay would protect their fishery and trade vessels;
+more than sustain a hundred times the number of the population
+of the island.  Wood for building their canoes and houses is
+close at hand; the neighbouring country would afford game in
+abundance; and the docile and civil people of Ukaranga but
+wait religious shepherds.
+
+From beautiful Sigunga, after a brief halt, we set off, and,
+after three hours, arrived at the mouth of the River Uwelasia.
+Hippopotami and crocodiles being numerous; we amused ourselves by
+shooting at them, having also a hope of attracting the attention
+of our shore party, the sound of whose guns we had not heard
+since leaving the Rugufu.
+
+On the 3rd of January we left Uwelasia, and, passing by Cape
+Herembe, were in the bay of Tongwe.  This bay is about twenty-
+five miles broad, and stretches from Cape Herembe to Cape Tongwe.
+Finding themselves so near their destination, Urimba being
+but six miles from Herembe Point, the men of both boats bent
+themselves to their oars, and, with shouts, songs, and laughter,
+encouraged each other to do their utmost.  The flags of the two
+great Anglo-Saxon nations rippled and played in the soft breeze,
+sometimes drawing near caressingly together, again bending away,
+like two lovers coy to unite.  The tight little boat of the Doctor
+would keep ahead, and the crimson and crossed flag of England would
+wave before me, and it seemed to say to the beautiful laggard
+astern, "Come on, come on; England leads the way."  But was it not
+England's place to be in the front here?  She won the right to it
+by discovering the Tanganika; America came but second.
+
+Urimba, though a large district of Kawendi, has a village of
+the same name peopled by refugees from Yombeh, who found the
+delta of the Loajeri, though the unhealthiest of spots--equal
+to that of the Rusizi--far preferable to the neighbourhood of
+Sultan Pumburu, of Southern Kawendi.  A good chase by the victors
+seems to have given a shock to their systems, for they are very
+timid and distrustful of strangers, and would by no means permit
+us to enter their village, of which, to say the truth, I was very
+glad, after a glance at the reeking corruption on which they were
+encamped.  In the immediate neighbourhood--nay, for a couple of
+miles on either side--I should suppose that to a white man it were
+death to sleep a single night.  Leading the way south of the
+village, I found a fit camping-place at the extreme south-east
+corner of Tongwe Bay, about a mile and a half due west of the
+lofty peak of Kivanga, or Kakungu.  By an observation taken by
+the Doctor, we found ourselves to be in latitude 5 degrees 54
+minutes south.
+
+None of the natives had heard of our shore party, and, as the
+delta of the Loajeri and Mogambazi extended for about fifteen miles,
+and withal was the most impassable of places, being perfectly flat,
+overgrown with the tallest of matete, eschinomenae, and thorny
+bush, and flooded with water, it was useless to fatigue our men
+searching for the shore party in such an inhospitable country.
+No provisions were procurable, for the villages were in a state of
+semi-starvation, the inhabitants living from hand to mouth on what
+reluctant Fortune threw into their nets.
+
+The second day of our arrival at Urimba I struck off into the
+interior with my gun-bearer, Kalulu, carrying the Doctor's
+splendid double-barreled rifle (a Reilly, No. 12), on the search
+for venison.  After walking about a mile I came to a herd of
+zebras.  By creeping on all-fours I managed to come within one
+hundred yards of them; but I was in a bad spot--low prickly shrubs;
+and tsetse flies alighting on the rifle-sight, biting my nose,
+and dashing into my eyes, completely disconcerted me; and, to add
+to my discontent, my efforts to disengage myself from the thorns,
+alarmed the zebras, which all stood facing the suspicious object in
+the bush.  I fired at the breast of one, but, as might be expected,
+missed.  The zebras galloped away to about three hundred yards
+off, and I dashed into the open, and, hastily cocking the left-hand
+trigger, aimed at a proud fellow trotting royally before his
+fellows, and by good chance sent a bullet through his heart.
+A fortunate shot also brought down a huge goose, which had a sharp
+horny spur on the fore part of each wing.  This supply of meat
+materially contributed towards the provisioning of the party for
+the transit of the unknown land that lay between us and Mrera,
+in Rusawa, Kawendi.
+
+It was not until the third day of our arrival at our camp at
+Urimba that our shore party arrived.  They had perceived our
+immense flag hoisted on a twenty-feet long bamboo above the
+tallest tree near our camp as they surmounted the sharp lofty ridge
+behind Nerembe, fifteen miles off, and had at first taken it for a
+huge bird; but there were sharp eyes in the crowd, and, guided by
+it, they came to camp, greeted as only lost and found men are
+greeted.
+
+I suffered from another attack of fever at this camp, brought on by
+the neighbourhood of the vile delta, the look of which sickened the
+very heart in me.
+
+On the 7th of January we struck camp, and turned our faces eastward,
+and for me, home!  Yet regretfully!  There had been enough
+happiness and pleasure, and pleasantest of social companionship
+found on the shores of the lake for me.  I had seen enough lovely
+scenes which, siren-like, invited one to quiet rest; gentle scenes,
+where there was neither jar nor tumult, neither strife nor defeat,
+neither hope nor disappointment, but rest-a drowsy, indolent,
+yet pleasant rest.  And only a few drawbacks to these.  There was
+fever; there were no books, no newspapers, no wife of my own race
+and blood, no theatres, no hotels, no restaurants, no East River
+oysters, no mince-pies, neither buckwheat cakes, nor anything much
+that was good for a cultivated palate to love.  So, in turning to say
+farewell to the then placid lake and the great blue mountains, that
+grew bluer as they receded on either hand, I had the courage to
+utter that awful word tearlessly, and without one sigh.
+
+Our road led up through the valley of the Loajeri, after leaving
+its delta, a valley growing ever narrower, until it narrowed into
+a ravine choked by the now roaring, bellowing river, whose
+resistless rush seemed to affect the very air we breathed.  It was
+getting oppressive, this narrowing ravine, and opportunely the
+road breasted a knoll, then a terrace, then a hill, and lastly a
+mountain, where we halted to encamp.  As we prepared to select a
+camping-place, the Doctor silently pointed forward, and suddenly
+a dead silence reigned everywhere.  The quinine which I had taken
+in the morning seemed to affect me in every crevice of my brain;
+but a bitter evil remained, and, though I trembled under the heavy
+weight of the Reilly rifle, I crept forward to where the Doctor
+was pointing.  I found myself looking down a steep ravine, on the
+other bank of which a fine buffalo cow was scrambling upward.  She
+had just reached the summit, and was turning round to survey her
+enemy, when I succeeded in planting a shot just behind the shoulder
+blade, and close to the spine, evoking from her a deep bellow of pain.
+"She is shot! she is shot!" exclaimed the Doctor; "that is a sure sign
+you have hit her."  And the men even raised a shout at the prospect
+of meat.  A second, planted in her spine, brought her to her knees,
+and a third ended her.  We thus had another supply of provisions,
+which, cut up and dried over a fire, as the Wangwana are accustomed
+to do, would carry them far over the unpeopled wilderness before
+us.  For the Doctor and myself, we had the tongue, the hump, and
+a few choice pieces salted down, and in a few days had prime
+corned beef.  It is not inapt to state that the rifle had more
+commendations bestowed on it than the hunter by the Wangwana.
+
+The next day we continued the march eastward, under the guidance
+of our kirangozi; but it was evident, by the road he led us,
+that he knew nothing of the country, though, through his
+volubility, he had led us to believe that he knew all about Ngondo,
+Yombeh, and Pumburu's districts.  When recalled from the head of
+the caravan, we were about to descend into the rapid Loajeri, and
+beyond it were three ranges of impassable mountains, which we were
+to cross in a north-easterly direction; quite out of our road.
+After consulting with the Doctor, I put myself at the head of the
+caravan, and following the spine of the ridge, struck off due east,
+regardless of how the road ran.  At intervals a travelled road
+crossed our path, and, after following it a while, we came to the
+ford of the Loajeri.  The Loajeri rises south and south-east of
+Kakungu Peak.  We made the best we could of the road after crossing
+the river, until we reached the main path that runs from Karah to
+Ngondo and Pumburu, in Southern Kawendi.
+
+On the 9th, soon after leaving camp, we left the travelled path,
+and made for a gap in the are of hills before us, as Pumburu was
+at war with the people of Manya Msenge, a district of northern
+Kawendi.  The country teemed with game, the buffaloes and zebras
+were plentiful.  Among the conspicuous trees were the hyphene and
+borassus palm trees, and a tree bearing a fruit about the size of
+a 600-pounder cannon-ball, called by some natives "mabyah,"*
+according to the Doctor, the seeds of which are roasted and eaten.
+They are not to be recommended as food to Europeans.
+_________________
+* In the Kisawahili tongue, "mabyah," "mbyah, "byah," mean bad,
+unpleasant.
+_________________
+
+On the 10th, putting myself at the head of my men, with my
+compass in hand, I led the way east for three hours.  A beautiful
+park-land was revealed to us; but the grass was very tall, and
+the rainy season, which had commenced in earnest, made my work
+excessively disagreeable.  Through this tall grass, which was as
+high as my throat, I had to force my way, compass in hand, to
+lead the Expedition, as there was not the least sign of a road,
+and we were now in an untravelled country.  We made our camp on
+a beautiful little stream flowing north; one of the feeders of
+the Rugufu River.
+
+The 11th still saw me plunging through the grass, which showered
+drops of rain on me every time I made a step forward.  In two
+hours we crossed a small stream, with slippery syenitic rocks in
+its bed, showing the action of furious torrents.  Mushrooms were
+in abundance, and very large.  In crossing, an old pagazi of
+Unyamwezi, weather-beaten, uttered, in a deplorable tone, "My
+kibuyu is dead;" by which he meant that he had slipped, and in
+falling had broken his gourd, which in Kisawahili is "kibuyu."
+
+On the eastern bank we halted for lunch, and, after an hour and
+a half's march, arrived at another stream, which I took to be the
+Mtambu, at first from the similarity of the land, though my map
+informed me that it was impossible.  The scenery around was very
+similar, and to the north we had cited a similar tabular hill to
+the "Magdala" Mount I had discovered north of Imrera, while going
+to the Malagarazi.  Though we had only travelled three and a half
+hours the Doctor was very tired as the country was exceedingly
+rough.
+
+The next day, crossing several ranges, with glorious scenes of
+surpassing beauty everywhere around us, we came in view of a
+mighty and swift torrent, whose bed was sunk deep between enormous
+lofty walls of sandstone rock, where it roared and brawled with
+the noise of a little Niagara.
+
+Having seen our camp prepared on a picturesque knoll, I thought I
+would endeavour to procure some meat, which this interesting region
+seemed to promise.  I sallied out with my little Winchester along
+the banks of the river eastward.  I travelled for an hour or two,
+the prospect getting more picturesque and lovely, and then went up
+a ravine which looked very promising.  Unsuccessful, I strode up
+the bank, and my astonishment may be conceived when I found
+myself directly in front of an elephant, who had his large broad
+ears held out like studding sails--the colossal monster, the
+incarnation of might of the African world.  Methought when I saw
+his trunk stretched forward, like a warning finger, that I heard a
+voice say, "Siste, Venator!"  But whether it did not proceed from
+my imagination or--No; I believe it proceeded from Kalulu, who
+must have shouted, "Tembo, tembo! bana yango!" "Lo! an elephant!
+an elephant, my master!"
+
+For the young rascal had fled as soon as he had witnessed the awful
+colossus in such close vicinage.  Recovering from my astonishment,
+I thought it prudent to retire also--especially, with a pea-shooter
+loaded with treacherous sawdust cartridges in my hand.  As I
+looked behind, I saw him waving his trunk, which I understood to
+mean, "Good-bye, young fellow; it is lucky for you you went in
+time, for I was going to pound you to a jelly."
+
+As I was congratulating myself, a wasp darted fiercely at me and
+planted its sting in my neck, and for that afternoon my
+anticipated pleasures were dispelled.  Arriving at camp I found
+the men grumbling; their provisions were ended, and there was no
+prospect for three days, at least, of procuring any.  With the
+improvidence usual with the gluttons, they had eaten their rations
+of grain, all their store of zebra and dried buffalo meat, and were
+now crying out that they were famished.
+
+The tracks of animals were numerous, but it being the rainy season
+the game was scattered everywhere; whereas, had we travelled
+during the dry season through these forests our larders might have
+been supplied fresh each day.
+
+Some time about 6 P.M., as the Doctor and I were taking our tea
+outside the tent, a herd of elephants, twelve in number, passed
+about 800 yards off.  Our fundi, Asmani and Mabruki Kisesa, were
+immediately despatched in pursuit.  I would have gone myself with
+the heavy Reilly rifle, only I was too much fatigued.  We soon
+heard their guns firing, and hoped they were successful, as a
+plentiful supply of meat might then have been procured, while we
+ourselves would have secured one of the elephant's feet for a nice
+delicate roast; but within an hour they returned unsuccessful,
+having only drawn blood, some of which they exhibited to us on a
+leaf.
+
+It requires a very good rifle to kill an African elephant.  A No.
+8 bore with a Frazer's shell, planted in the temple, I believe,
+would drop an elephant each shot.  Faulkner makes some
+extraordinary statements, about walking up in front of an elephant
+and planting a bullet in his forehead, killing him instantly.  The
+tale, however, is so incredible that I would prefer not to believe
+it; especially when he states that the imprint of the muzzle of
+his rifle was on the elephant's trunk.  African travellers--
+especially those with a taste for the chase--are too fond of
+relating that which borders on the incredible for ordinary men to
+believe them.  Such stories must be taken with a large grain
+of salt, for the sake of the amusement they afford to readers at
+home.  In future, whenever I hear a man state how he broke the back
+of an antelope at 600 yards, I shall incline to believe a cipher
+had been added by a slip of the pen, or attribute it to a
+typographical error, for this is almost an impossible feat in an
+African forest.  It may be done once, but it could never be done
+twice running.  An antelope makes a very small target at 600 yards
+distance; but, then, all these stories belong by right divine to
+the chasseur who travels to Africa for the sake only of sport.
+
+On the 13th we continued our march across several ridges; and the
+series of ascents and descents revealed to us valleys and mountains
+never before explored streams; rushing northward, swollen by the
+rains, and grand primeval forests, in whose twilight shade no white
+man ever walked before.
+
+On the 14th the same scenes were witnessed--an unbroken series
+of longitudinal ridges, parallel one with another and with Lake
+Tanganika.  Eastward the faces of these ridges present abrupt
+scarps and terraces, rising from deep valleys, while the western
+declivities have gradual slopes.  These are the peculiar features
+of Ukawendi, the eastern watershed of the Tanganika.
+
+In one of these valleys on this day we came across a colony of
+reddish-bearded monkeys, whose howls, or bellowing, rang amongst
+the cliffs as they discovered the caravan.  I was not able to
+approach them, for they scrambled up trees and barked their
+defiance at me, then bounded to the ground as I still persisted
+in advancing; and they would have soon drawn me in pursuit if I
+had not suddenly remembered that my absence was halting the
+Expedition.
+
+About noon we sighted our Magdala--the grand towering mount whose
+upright frowning mass had attracted our eyes, as it lifted itself
+from above the plain in all its grandeur, when we were hurrying
+along the great ridge of Rusawa towards the "Crocodile" River.
+We recognised the old, mystic beauty of the tree-clad plain around
+it.  Then it was bleached, and a filmy haze covered it lovingly;
+now it was vivid greenness.  Every vegetable, plant, herb and
+tree, had sprung into quick life--the effect of the rains.  Rivers
+that ran not in those hot summer days now fumed and rushed
+impetuously between thick belts of mighty timber, brawling
+hoarsely in the glades.  We crossed many of these streams,
+all of which are feeders of the Rugufu.
+
+Beautiful, bewitching Ukawendi!  By what shall I gauge the
+loveliness of the wild, free, luxuriant, spontaneous nature
+within its boundaries?  By anything in Europe?  No.  By anything
+in Asia?  Where?  India, perhaps.  Yes; or say Mingrelia and
+Imeritia.  For there we have foaming rivers; we have picturesque
+hillocks; we have bold hills, ambitious mountains, and
+broad forests, with lofty solemn rows of trees, with clean
+straight stems, through which you can see far, lengthy vistas,
+as you see here.  Only in Ukawendi you can almost behold the growth
+of vegetation; the earth is so generous, nature so kind and
+loving, that without entertaining any aspiration for a residence,
+or a wish to breathe the baleful atmosphere longer than is
+absolutely necessary, one feels insensibly drawn towards it, as
+the thought creeps into his mind, that though all is foul beneath
+the captivating, glamorous beauty of the land, the foulness might
+be removed by civilized people, and the whole region made as
+healthy as it is productive.  Even while staggering under the
+pressure of the awful sickness, with mind getting more and more
+embittered, brain sometimes reeling with the shock of the
+constantly recurring fevers--though I knew how the malaria, rising
+out of that very fairness, was slowly undermining my constitution,
+and insidiously sapping the powers of mind and body--I regarded
+the alluring face of the land with a fatuous love, and felt a
+certain sadness steal over me as each day I was withdrawing myself
+from it, and felt disposed to quarrel with the fate that seemed
+to eject me out of Ukawendi.
+
+On the ninth day of our march from the shores of the Tanganika we
+again perceived our "Magdala Mount," rising like a dark cloud to
+the north-east, by which I knew that we were approaching Imrera,
+and that our Icarian attempt to cross the uninhabited jungle of
+Ukawendi would soon be crowned with success.  Against the
+collective counsel of the guides, and hypothetical suggestions of
+the tired and hungry souls of our Expedition, I persisted in being
+guided only by the compass and my chart.  The guides strenuously
+strove to induce me to alter my course and strike in a south-west
+direction, which, had I listened to them, would have undoubtedly
+taken me to South-western Ukonongo, or North-eastern Ufipa.
+The veteran and experienced soldiers asked mournfully if I were
+determined to kill them with famine, as the road I should have
+taken was north-east; but I preferred putting my trust in the
+compass.  No sun shone upon us as we threaded our way through
+the primeval forest, by clumps of jungle, across streams, up
+steep ridges, and down into deep valleys.  A thick haze covered
+the forests; rain often pelted us; the firmament was an
+unfathomable depth of grey vapour.  The Doctor had perfect
+confidence in me, and I held on my way.
+
+As soon as we arrived at our camp the men scattered themselves
+through the forest to search for food.  A grove of singwe trees was
+found close by.  Mushrooms grew in abundance, and these sufficed to
+appease the gnawing hunger from which the people suffered.  Had it
+not been such rainy weather I should have been enabled to procure
+game for the camp; but the fatigue which I suffered, and the fever
+which enervated me, utterly prevented me from moving out of the camp
+after we once came to a halt.  The fear of lions, which were
+numerous in our vicinity, whose terrible roaring was heard by day
+and by night, daunted the hunters so much, that though I offered
+five doti of cloth for every animal brought to camp, none dared
+penetrate the gloomy glades, or awesome belts of timber, outside
+the friendly defence of the camp.
+
+The morning of the tenth day I assured the people that we were
+close to food; cheered the most amiable of them with promise of
+abundant provender, and hushed the most truculent knaves with a
+warning not to tempt my patience too much, lest we came to angry
+blows; and then struck away east by north through the forest,
+with the almost exhausted Expedition dragging itself weakly and
+painfully behind me.  It was a most desperate position certainly,
+and I pitied the poor people far more than they pitied themselves;
+and though I fumed and stormed in their presence when they
+were disposed to lie down and give up, never was a man further
+from doing them injury.  I was too proud of them; but under the
+circumstances it was dangerous--nay, suicidal--to appear doubtful
+or dubious of the road.  The mere fact that I still held on my way
+according to the Doctor's little pearly monitor (the compass) had
+a grand moral effect on them, and though they demurred in
+plaintive terms and with pinched faces, they followed my
+footsteps with a trustfulness which quite affected me.
+
+For long miles we trudged over smooth sloping sward, with a vision
+of forest and park-land beauty on our right and left, and in front
+of us such as is rarely seen.  At a pace that soon left the main
+body of the Expedition far behind, I strode on with a few gallant
+fellows, who, despite their heavy loads, kept pace with me.  After
+a couple of hours we were ascending the easy slope of a ridge,
+which promised to decide in a few minutes the truth or the
+inaccuracy of my chart.  Presently we arrived at the eastern
+edge of the ridge, and about five miles away, and 1,000 feet below
+the high plateau on which we stood, we distinguished the valley of
+Imrera!
+
+By noon we were in our old camp.  The natives gathered round,
+bringing supplies of food, and to congratulate us upon having gone
+to Ujiji and returned.  But it was long before the last member of
+the Expedition arrived.  The Doctor's feet were very sore,
+bleeding from the weary march.  His shoes were in a very worn-out
+state, and he had so cut and slashed them with a knife to ease his
+blistered feet, that any man of our force would have refused them
+as a gift, no matter how ambitious he might be to encase his feet
+a la Wasungu.
+
+Asmani, the guide, was very much taken aback when he discovered
+that the tiny compass knew the way better than he did, and he
+declared it as his solemn opinion that it could not lie.  He
+suffered much in reputation from having contested the palm with
+the "little thing," and ever afterwards his boasted knowledge
+of the country was considerably doubted.
+
+After halting a day to recruit ourselves, we continued our journey
+on the 18th January, 1872, towards Unyanyembe.  A few miles beyond
+Imrera, Asmani lost the road again, and I was obliged to show it to
+him, by which I gained additional honour and credit as a leader and
+guide.  My shoes were very bad, and it was difficult to decide
+whose were the worst in condition, the Doctor's or mine.  A great
+change had come upon the face of the land since I had passed
+northward en route to Ujiji.  The wild grapes now hung in clusters
+along the road; the corn ears were advanced enough to pluck and
+roast for food; the various plants shed their flowers; and the
+deep woods and grasses of the country were greener than ever.
+
+On the 19th we arrived at Mpokwa's deserted village.  The Doctor's
+feet were very much chafed and sore by the marching.  He had
+walked on foot all the way from Urimba, though he owned a donkey;
+while I, considerably to my shame be it said, had ridden
+occasionally to husband my strength,: that I might be enabled
+to hunt after arrival at camp.
+
+Two huts were cleared for our use, but, just as we had made
+ourselves comfortable, our sharp-eyed fellows had discovered
+several herds of game in the plain west of Mpokwa.  Hastily
+devouring a morsel of corn-bread with coffee, I hastened away,
+with Bilali for a gunbearer, taking with me the famous Reilly
+rifle of the Doctor and a supply of Fraser's shells.  After
+plunging through a deep stream, and getting wet again, and pushing
+my way through a dense brake, I arrived at a thin belt of forest,
+through which I was obliged to crawl, and, in half an hour, I had
+arrived within one hundred and forty yards of a group of zebras,
+which were playfully biting each other under the shade of a large
+tree.  Suddenly rising up, I attracted their attention; but the
+true old rifle was at my shoulder, and "crack--crack" went both
+barrels, and two fine zebras, a male and female, fell dead under
+the tree where they had stood.  In a few seconds their throats
+were cut, and after giving the signal of my success, I was soon
+surrounded by a dozen of my men, who gave utterance to their
+delight by fulsome compliments to the merits of the rifle, though
+very few to me.  When I returned to camp with the meat I received
+the congratulations of the Doctor, which I valued far higher, as
+he knew from long experience what shooting was.
+
+When the eatable portions of the two zebras were hung to the scale,
+we found, according to the Doctor's own figures, that we had 719
+lbs. of good meat, which, divided among forty-four men, gave a
+little over 16 lbs. to each person.  Bombay, especially, was very
+happy, as he had dreamed a dream wherein I figured prominently as
+shooting animals down right and left; and, when he had seen me
+depart with that wonderful Reilly rifle he had not entertained
+a doubt of my success, and, accordingly, had commanded the men
+to be ready to go after me, as soon as they should hear the
+reports of the gun.
+
+The following is quoted from my Diary:
+
+January  20th, 1872.--To-day was a halt.  On going out for a hunt
+I saw a herd of eleven giraffes.  After crossing Mpokwa stream I
+succeeded in getting within one hundred and fifty yards of one of
+them, and fired at it; but, though it was wounded, I did not
+succeed in dropping it, though I desired the skin of one of them
+very much.
+
+In the afternoon I went out to the east of the village, and came
+to a herd of six giraffes.  I wounded one of them, but it got off,
+despite my efforts.
+
+What remarkable creatures they are!  How beautiful their large
+limpid eyes!  I could have declared on oath that both shots had
+been a success, but they sheered off with the stately movements
+of a clipper about to tack.  When they ran they had an ungainly,
+dislocated motion, somewhat like the contortions of an Indian
+nautch or a Theban danseuse--a dreamy, undulating movement, which
+even the tail, with its long fringe of black hair, seemed to
+partake of.
+
+The Doctor, who knew how to console an ardent but disappointed
+young hunter, attributed my non-success to shooting with leaden
+balls, which were too soft to penetrate the thick hide of the
+giraffes, and advised me to melt my zinc canteens with which to
+harden the lead.  It was not the first time that I had cause to
+think the Doctor an admirable travelling companion; none knew so
+well how to console one for bad luck none knew so well how to
+elevate one in his own mind.  If I killed a zebra, did not his
+friend Oswell--the South African hunter--and himself long ago
+come to the conclusion that zebra meat was the finest in Africa?
+If I shot a buffalo cow, she was sure to be the best of her kind,
+and her horns were worth while carrying home as specimens; and was
+she not fat?  If I returned without anything, the game was very
+wild, or the people had made a noise, and the game had been
+frightened; and who could stalk animals already alarmed?  Indeed,
+he was a most considerate companion, and, knowing him to be
+literally truthful, I was proud of his praise when successful,
+and when I failed I was easily consoled.
+
+Ibrahim, the old pagazi whose feelings had been so lacerated in
+Ukawendi, when his ancient kibuyu broke, before leaving Ujiji
+invested his cloth in a slave from Manyuema, who bore the name
+of "Ulimengo," which signifies the "World."  As we approached Mpokwa,
+Ulimengo absconded with all his master's property, consisting of a
+few cloths and a bag of salt, which he had thought of taking to
+Unyanyembe for trade.  Ibrahim was inconsolable, and he kept
+lamenting his loss daily in such lugubrious tones that the people,
+instead of sympathizing, laughed at him.  I asked him why he
+purchased such a slave, and, while he was with him, why he did not
+feed him?  Replied he, tartly, "Was he not my slave?  Was not the
+cloth with which I bought him mine?  If the cloth was my own,
+could I not purchase what I liked?  Why do you talk so?"
+
+Ibrahim's heart was made glad this evening by the return of
+Ulimengo with the salt and the cloth, and the one-eyed old man
+danced with his great joy, and came in all haste to impart to me
+the glad news.  "Lo, the `World' has come back.  Sure.  My salt
+and my cloth are with him also.  Sure."  To which I replied,
+that he had better feed him in future, as slaves required food
+as well as their masters.
+
+From 10 P.M. to midnight the Doctor was employed in taking
+observations from the star Canopus, the result of which was that
+he ascertained Mpokwa, district of Utanda, Ukonongo, to be in S.
+latitude 6 degrees 18 minutes 40 seconds.  On comparing it with
+its position as laid down in my map by dead reckoning, I found
+we differed by three miles; I having !aid it down at 6 degrees
+15 minutes south latitude.
+
+The day following was a halt.  The Doctor's feet were so inflamed
+and sore that he could not bear his shoes on.  My heels were also
+raw, and I viciously cut large circles out of my shoes to enable
+me to move about.
+
+Having converted my zinc canteens into bullets, and provided
+myself with a butcher and gun-bearer, I set out for the lovely
+park-land and plain west of Mpokwa stream, with the laudable
+resolution to obtain something; and seeing nothing in the plain,
+I crossed over a ridge, and came to a broad basin covered with
+tall grass, with clumps here and there of hyphene palm, with a
+stray mimosa or so scattered about.  Nibbling off the branches
+of the latter, I saw a group of giraffes, and then began stalking
+them through the grass, taking advantage of the tall grass-grown
+ant-hills that I might approach the wary beasts before their great
+eyes could discover me.  I contrived to come within 175 yards, by
+means of one of these curious hummocks; but beyond it no man could
+crawl without being observed--the grass was so thin and short.  I
+took a long breath, wiped my perspiring brow, and sat down for a
+while; my black assistants also, like myself, were almost breathless
+with the exertion, and the high expectations roused by the near
+presence of the royal beasts.  I toyed lovingly with the heavy
+Reilly, saw to my cartridges, and then stood up and turned, with
+my rifle ready; took one good, long, steady aim; then lowered it
+again to arrange the sights, lifted it up once more--dropped it.
+A giraffe half turned his body; for the last time I lifted it,
+took one quick sight at the region of the heart, and fired.
+He staggered, reeled, then made a short gallop; but the blood
+was spouting from the wound in a thick stream, and before he had
+gone 200 yards he came to a dead halt, with his ears drawn back,
+and allowed me to come within twenty yards of him, when, receiving
+a zinc bullet through the head, he fell dead.
+
+"Allah ho, akhbar!" cried Khamisi, my butcher, fervently.
+"This is meat, master!"
+
+I was rather saddened than otherwise at seeing the noble animal
+stretched before me.  If I could have given him his life back I
+think I should have done so.  I thought it a great pity that such
+splendid animals, so well adapted for the service of man in Africa,
+could not be converted to some other use than that of food.
+Horses, mules, and donkeys died in these sickly regions; but what
+a blessing for Africa would it be if we could tame the giraffes and
+zebras for the use of explorers and traders!  Mounted on a zebra,
+a man would be enabled to reach Ujiji in one month from Bagamoyo;
+whereas it took me over seven months to travel that distance!
+
+The dead giraffe measured 16 feet 9 inches from his right fore-hoof
+to the top of his head, and was one of the largest size, though
+some have been found to measure over 17 feet.  He was spotted all
+over with large black, nearly round, patches.
+
+I left Khamisi in charge of the dead beast, while I returned to
+camp to send off men to cut it up, and convey the meat to our
+village.  But Khamisi climbed a tree for fear of the lions, and the
+vultures settled on it, so that when the men arrived on the spot,
+the eyes, the tongue, and a great part of the posteriors were eaten
+up.  What remained weighed as follows, when brought in and hung to
+the scales:
+
+1 hind leg .  .  .  .  134 lbs.
+
+1  "       .  .  .  .  136  "
+
+1 fore leg .  .  .  .  160  "
+
+I   "      .  .  .  .  160  "
+
+Ribs .  .  .  .  .  .  158  "
+
+Neck .  .  .  .  .  .   74  "
+
+Rump .  .  .  .  .  .   87  "
+
+Breast  .  .  .  .  .    46  "
+
+Liver   .  .  .  .  .    20  "
+
+Lungs   .  .  .  .  .    12  "
+
+Heart   .  .  .  .  .     6  "
+
+Total weight of eatable portions .  .  993 lbs.
+
+Skin and head, 181 lbs.
+
+The three days following I suffered from a severe attack of fever,
+and was unable to stir from bed.  I applied my usual remedies for
+it, which consisted of colocynth and quinine; but experience has
+shown me that an excessive use of the same cathartic weakens its
+effect, and that it would be well for travellers to take with them
+different medicines to cause proper action in the liver, such as
+colocynth, calomel, resin of jalap, Epsom salts; and that no
+quinine should be taken until such medicines shall have prepared
+the system for its reception.
+
+The Doctor's prescription for fever consists of 3 grains
+of resin of jalap, and 2 grains of calomel, with tincture of
+cardamoms put in just enough to prevent irritation of the
+stomach--made into the form of a pill--which is to be taken as
+soon as one begins to feel the excessive languor and weariness
+which is the sure forerunner of the African type of fever.  An
+hour or two later a cup of coffee, unsugared and without milk,
+ought to be taken, to cause a quicker action.  The Doctor also
+thinks that quinine should be taken with the pill; but my
+experience--though it weighs nothing against what he has endured--
+has proved to me that quinine is useless until after the medicine
+has taken effect.  My stomach could never bear quinine unless
+subsequent to the cathartic.  A well-known missionary at
+Constantinople recommends travellers to take 3 grains of
+tartar-emetic for the ejection of the bilious matter in the
+stomach; but the reverend doctor possibly forgets that much more
+of the system is disorganized than the stomach; and though in
+one or two cases of a slight attack, this remedy may have proved
+successful, it is altogether too violent for an enfeebled man
+in Africa.  I have treated myself faithfully after this method
+three or four times; but I could not conscientiously recommend it.
+For cases of urticaria, I could recommend taking 3 grains of
+tartar-emetic; but then a stomach-pump would answer the purpose
+as well.
+
+On the 27th we set out for Misonghi.  About half-way I saw the
+head of the Expedition on the run, and the motive seemed to be
+communicated quickly, man after man, to those behind, until my
+donkey commenced to kick, and lash behind with his heels.  In a
+second, I was made aware of the cause of this excitement, by a
+cloud of wild bees buzzing about my head, three or four of which
+settled on my face, and stung me frightfully.  We raced madly for
+about half a mile, behaving in as wild a manner as the poor
+bestung animals.
+
+As this was an unusually long march, I doubted if the Doctor could
+march it, because his feet were so sore, so I determined to send
+four men back with the kitanda; but the stout old hero refused to
+be carried, and walked all the way to camp after a march of
+eighteen miles.  He had been stung dreadfully in the head and
+in the face; the bees had settled in handfuls in his hair; but,
+after partaking of a cup of warm tea and some food, he was as
+cheerful as if he had never travelled a mile.
+
+At Mrera, Central Ukonongo, we halted a day to grind grain, and
+to prepare the provision we should need during the transit of
+the wilderness between Mrera and Manyara.
+
+On the 31st of January, at Mwaru, Sultan Ka-mirambo, we met a
+caravan under the leadership of a slave of Sayd bin Habib, who
+came to visit us in our camp, which was hidden in a thick clump
+of jungle.  After he was seated, and had taken his coffee,
+I asked,
+
+"What is thy news, my friend, that thou bast brought from
+Unyanyembe?"
+
+"My news is good, master."
+
+"How goes the war?"
+
+"Ah, Mirambo is where?  He eats the hides even.  He
+is famished.  Sayd bin Habib, my master, hath possession of
+Kirira.  The Arabs are thundering at the gates of Wilyankuru.
+Sayd bin Majid, who came from Ujiji to Usagozi in twenty days,
+hath taken and slain `Moto' (Fire), the King.  Simba of Kasera
+hath taken up arms for the defence of his father, Mkasiwa of
+Unyanyembe.  The chief of Ugunda hath sent five hundred men
+to the field.  Ough--Mirambo is where?  In a month he will
+be dead of hunger."
+
+"Great and good news truly, my friend."
+
+"Yes-in the name of God."
+
+"And whither art thou bound with thy caravan?"
+
+"Sayd, the son of Majid, who came from Ujiji, hath told us of
+the road that the white man took, that he had arrived at Ujiji
+safely, and that he was on his way back to Unyanyembe.  So we
+have thought that if the white man could go there, we could also.
+Lo, the Arabs come by the hundred by the white man's road, to
+get the ivory from Ujiji.
+
+"I am that white man."
+
+"You?"
+
+« Yes."
+
+" Why it was reported that you were dead--that you fought with
+the Wazavira."
+
+"Ah, my friend, these are the words of Njara, the son of Khamis.
+See" (pointing to Livingstone), "this is the white man, my
+father *, whom I saw at Ujiji.  He is going with me to Unyanyembe
+to get his cloth, after which he will return to the great waters."
+__________________
+** It is a courteous custom in Africa to address elderly people as
+" Baba," (Father.)
+__________________
+
+"Wonderful!--thou sayest truly."
+
+"What has thou to tell me of the white man at Unyanyembe?"
+
+"Which white man?"
+
+"The white man I left in the house of Sayd, the son of Salim--my
+house--at Kwihara."
+
+" He is dead."
+
+" Dead!"
+
+"True."
+
+"You do not mean to say the white man is dead?"
+
+"True--he is dead."
+
+"How long ago?"
+
+"Many months now."
+
+"What did he die of?"
+
+"Homa (fever)."
+
+"Any more of my people dead?"
+
+"I know not."
+
+" Enough." I looked sympathetically at the Doctor, and he replied,
+
+"I told you so.  When you described him to me as a drunken man,
+I knew he could not live.  Men who have been habitual drunkards
+cannot live in this country, any more than men who have become
+slaves to other vices.  I attribute the deaths that occurred in
+my expedition on the Zambezi to much the same cause."
+
+"Ah, Doctor, there are two of us gone.  I shall be the third,
+if this fever lasts much longer."
+
+"Oh no, not at all.  If you would have died from fever, you would
+have died at Ujiji when you had that severe attack of remittent.
+Don't think of it.  Your fever now is only the result of exposure
+to wet.  I never travel during the wet season.  This time I have
+travelled because I was anxious, and I did not wish to detain you
+at Ujiji."
+
+"Well, there is nothing like a good friend at one's back in this
+country to encourage him, and keep his spirits up.  Poor Shaw!
+I am sorry--very sorry for him.  How many times have I not
+endeavoured to cheer him up!  But there was no life in him.
+And among the last words I said to him, before parting, were,
+`Remember, if you return to Unyanyembe, you die!'"
+
+We also obtained news from the chief of Sayd bin Habib's caravan
+that several packets of letters and newspapers, and boxes, had
+arrived for me from Zanzibar by my messengers and Arabs; that
+Selim, the son of Sheikh Hashid of Zanzibar, was amongst the
+latest arrivals in Unyanyembe.  The Doctor also reminded me with
+the utmost good-nature that, according to his accounts, he had
+a stock of jellies and crackers, soups, fish, and potted ham,
+besides cheese, awaiting him in Unyanyembe, and that he would
+be delighted to share his good things; whereupon I was greatly
+cheered, and, during the repeated attacks of fever I suffered
+about this time, my imagination loved to dwell upon the luxuries
+at Unyanyembe.  I pictured myself devouring the hams and crackers
+and jellies like a madman.  I lived on my raving fancies.  My poor
+vexed brain rioted on such homely things as wheaten bread and
+butter, hams, bacon, caviare, and I would have thought no price
+too high to pay for them.  Though so far away and out of the pale
+of Europe and America, it was a pleasure to me, during the _athumia_
+or despondency into which I was plunged by ever recurring fevers,
+to dwell upon them.  I wondered that people who had access to such
+luxuries should ever get sick, and become tired of life.  I thought
+that if a wheaten loaf with a nice pat of fresh butter were
+presented to me, I would be able, though dying, to spring up and
+dance a wild fandango.
+
+Though we lacked the good things of this life above named, we
+possessed salted giraffe and pickled zebra tongues; we had ugali
+made by Halimah herself; we had sweet potatoes, tea, coffee,
+dampers, or slap jacks; but I was tired of them.  My enfeebled
+stomach, harrowed and irritated with medicinal compounds, with
+ipecac, colocynth, tartar-emetic, quinine, and such things,
+protested against the coarse food.  "Oh, for a wheaten loaf!"
+my soul cried in agony.  "Five hundred dollars for one loaf
+of bread!"
+
+The Doctor, somehow or another, despite the incessant rain, the
+dew, fog, and drizzle, the marching, and sore feet, ate like a
+hero, and I manfully, sternly, resolved to imitate the persevering
+attention he paid to the welfare of his gastric powers; but I
+miserably failed.
+
+Dr. Livingstone possesses all the attainments of a traveller.
+His knowledge is great about everything concerning Africa--the
+rocks, the trees, the fruits, and their virtues, are known to him.
+He is also full of philosophic reflections upon ethnological
+matter.  With camp-craft, with its cunning devices, he is au fait.
+His bed is luxurious as a spring mattress.  Each night he has
+it made under his own supervision.  First, he has two straight
+poles cut, three or four inches in diameter; which are laid
+parallel one with another, at the distance of two feet; across
+these poles are laid short sticks, saplings, three feet long, and
+over them is laid a thick pile of grass; then comes a piece of
+waterproof canvas and blankets--and thus a bed has been
+improvised fit for a king.
+
+It was at Livingstone's instigation I purchased milch goats, by
+which, since leaving Ujiji, we have had a supply of fresh milk
+for our tea and coffee three times a day.  Apropos of this, we
+are great drinkers of these welcome stimulants; we seldom halt
+drinking until we have each had six or seven cups.  We have also
+been able to provide ourselves with music, which, though harsh,
+is better than none.  I mean the musical screech of parrots from
+Manyuema.
+
+Half-way between Mwaru--Kamirambo's village--and the deserted
+Tongoni of Ukamba, I carved the Doctor's initials and my own on
+a large tree, with the date February 2nd.  I have been twice
+guilty of this in Africa once when we were famishing in Southern
+Uvinza I inscribed the date, my initials, and the word "Starving,"
+in large letters on the trunk of a sycamore.
+
+In passing through the forest of Ukamba, we saw the bleached skull
+of an unfortunate victim to the privations of travel.  Referring to
+it, the Doctor remarked that he could never pass through an African
+forest, with its solemn stillness and serenity, without wishing to
+be buried quietly under the dead leaves, where he would be sure to
+rest undisturbed.  In England there was no elbow-room, the graves
+were often desecrated; and ever since he had buried his wife in
+the woods of Shupanga he had sighed for just such a spot, where his
+weary bones would receive the eternal rest they coveted.
+
+The same evening, when the tent door was down, and the interior
+was made cheerful by the light of a paraffin candle, the Doctor
+related to me some incidents respecting the career and the death
+of his eldest son, Robert.  Readers of Livingstone's first book,
+`South Africa,' without which no boy should be, will probably
+recollect the dying Sebituane's regard for the little boy
+"Robert."  Mrs. Livingstone and family were taken to the Cape of
+Good Hope, and thence sent to England, where Robert was put in the
+charge of a tutor; but wearied of inactivity, when he was about
+eighteen, he left Scotland and came to Natal, whence he endeavoured
+to reach his father.  Unsuccessful in his attempt, he took ship and
+sailed for New York, and enlisted in the Northern Army, in a New
+Hampshire regiment of Volunteers, discarding his own name of Robert
+Moffatt Livingstone, and taking that of Rupert Vincent that his
+tutor, who seems to have been ignorant of his duties to the youth,
+might not find him.  From one of the battles before Richmond, he
+was conveyed to a North Carolina hospital, where he died from his
+wounds.
+
+On the 7th of February we arrived at the Gombe, and camped near
+one of its largest lakes.  This lake is probably several miles in
+length, and swarms with hippopotami and crocodiles.
+
+From this camp I despatched Ferajji, the cook, and Chowpereh to
+Unyanyembe, to bring the letters and medicines that were sent to
+me from Zanzibar, and meet us at Ugunda, while the next day we moved
+to our old quarters on the Gombe, where we were first introduced to
+the real hunter's paradise in Central Africa.  The rain had
+scattered the greater number of the herds, but there was plenty of
+game in the vicinity.  Soon after breakfast I took Khamisi and
+Kalulu with me for a hunt.  After a long walk we arrived near a
+thin jungle, where I discovered the tracks of several animals--boar,
+antelope, elephant, rhinoceros, hippopotamus, and an unusual
+number of imprints of the lion's paw.  Suddenly I heard Khamisi
+say, "Master, master!  here is a `simba!' (lion);" and he came
+up to me trembling with excitement and fear--for the young fellow
+was an arrant coward--to point out the head of a beast, which could
+be seen just above the tall grass, looking steadily towards us.
+It immediately afterwards bounded from side to side, but the grass
+was so high that it was impossible to tell exactly what it was.
+Taking advantage of a tree in my front, I crept quietly onwards,
+intending to rest the heavy rifle against it, as I was so weak
+from the effects of several fevers that I felt myself utterly
+incapable of supporting my rifle for a steady aim.  But my
+surprise was great when I cautiously laid it against the tree,
+and then directed its muzzle to the spot where I had seen him
+stand.  Looking further away--to where the grass was thin and
+scant--I saw the animal bound along at a great rate, and that
+it was a lion: the noble monarch of the forest was in full
+flight!  From that moment I ceased to regard him as the
+"mightiest among the brutes;" or his roar as anything more
+fearful in broad daylight than a sucking dove's.
+
+The next day was also a halt, and unable to contain my longing
+for the chase, where there used to be such a concourse of game
+of all kinds, soon after morning coffee, and after despatching
+a couple of men with presents to my friend Ma-manyara, of
+ammonia-bottle memory, I sauntered out once more for the park.
+Not five hundred yards from the camp, myself and men were suddenly
+halted by hearing in our immediate vicinity, probably within
+fifty yards or so, a chorus of roars, issuing from a triplet
+of lions.  Instinctively my fingers raised the two hammers, as
+I expected a general onset on me; for though one lion might fly,
+it was hardly credible that three should.  While looking keenly
+about I detected, within easy rifle-shot, a fine hartebeest,
+trembling and cowering behind a tree, as if it expected the fangs
+of the lion in its neck.  Though it had its back turned to me, I
+thought a bullet might plough its way to a vital part, and without
+a moment's hesitation I aimed and fired.  The animal gave a
+tremendous jump, as if it intended to take a flying leap through
+the tree; but recovering itself it dashed through the underbrush
+in a different direction from that in which I supposed the lions
+to be, and I never saw it again, though I knew I had struck it
+from the bloody trail it left; neither did I see nor hear anything
+more of the lions.  I searched far and wide over the park-land for
+prey of some kind, but was compelled to return unsuccessful to camp.
+
+Disgusted with my failure, we started a little after noon for
+Manyara, at which place we were hospitably greeted by my friend,
+who had sent men to tell me that his white brother must not halt
+in the woods but must come to his village.  "We received a present
+of honey and food from the chief, which was most welcome to us in
+our condition.  Here was an instance of that friendly disposition
+among Central African chiefs when they have not been spoiled by
+the Arabs, which Dr. Livingstone found among the Babisa and
+Ba-ulungu, and in Manyuema.  I received the same friendly
+recognition from all the chiefs, from Imrera, in Ukawendi,
+to Unyanyembe, as I did from Ma-manyara.
+
+On the 14th we arrived at Ugunda, and soon after we had established
+ourselves comfortably in a hut which the chief lent us for our use,
+in came Ferajji and Chowpereh, bringing with them Sarmean and Uledi
+Manwa Sera, who, it will be recollected, were the two soldiers sent
+to Zanzibar with letters and who should Sarmean have in charge but
+the deserter Hamdallah, who decamped at Manyara, as we were going
+to Ujiji.  This fellow, it seems, had halted at Kigandu, and had
+informed the chief and the doctor of the village that he had been
+sent by the white man to take back the cloth left there for the
+cure of Mabruk Saleem; and the simple chief had commanded it to
+be given up to him upon his mere word, in consequence of which
+the sick man had died.
+
+Upon Sarmean's arrival in Unyanyembe from Zanzibar, about fifty
+days after the Expedition had departed for Ujiji the news he
+received was that the white man (Shaw) was dead; and that a man
+called Hamdallah, who had engaged himself as one of my guides,
+but who had shortly after returned, was at Unyanyembe.  He had
+left him unmolested until the appearance of Ferajji and his
+companion, when they at once, in a body, made a descent on his
+hut and secured him.  With the zeal which always distinguished
+him in my service, Sarmean had procured a forked pole, between
+the prongs of which the neck of the absconder was placed; and
+a cross stick, firmly lashed, effectually prevented him from
+relieving himself of the incumbrance attached to him so
+deftly.
+
+There were no less than seven packets of letters and newspapers
+from Zanzibar, which had been collecting during my absence from
+Unyanyembe.  These had been intrusted at various times to the
+chiefs of caravans, who had faithfully delivered them at my
+tembe, according to their promise to the Consul.  There was one
+packet for me, which contained two or three letters for
+Dr. Livingstone, to whom, of course, they were at once transferred,
+with my congratulations.  In the same packet there was also a
+letter to me from the British Consul at Zanzibar requesting me
+to take charge of Livingstone's goods and do the best I could
+to forward them on to him, dated 25th September, 1871, five days
+after I left Unyanyembe on my apparently hopeless task.
+
+"Well, Doctor," said I to Livingstone, "the English Consul
+requests me to do all I can to push forward your goods to you.
+I am sorry that I did not get the authority sooner, for I should
+have attempted it; but in the absence of these instructions I
+have done the best I could by pushing you towards the goods.
+The mountain has not been able to advance towards Mohammed,
+but Mohammed has been compelled to advance towards the mountain."
+
+But Dr. Livingstone was too deeply engrossed in his own letters
+from home, which were just a year old.
+
+I received good and bad news from New York, but the good news was
+subsequent, and wiped out all feelings that might have been evoked
+had I received the bad only.  But the newspapers, nearly a hundred
+of them, New York, Boston, and London journals, were full of most
+wonderful news.  The Paris Commune was in arms against the National
+Assembly; the Tuileries, the Louvre, and the ancient city Lutetia
+Parisiorum had been set in flames by the blackguards of
+Saint-Antoine!  French troops massacring and murdering men,
+women, and children; rampant diabolism, and incarnate revenge were
+at work in the most beautiful city in the world!  Fair women
+converted into demons, and dragged by ruffianly soldiery through
+the streets to universal execration and pitiless death; children
+of tender age pinned to the earth and bayoneted; men innocent or
+not, shot, cut, stabbed, slashed, destroyed--a whole city given
+up to the summa injuria of an infuriate, reckless, and brutal army!
+Oh France!  Oh Frenchmen!  Such things are unknown even in the
+heart of barbarous Central Africa.  We spurned the newspapers with
+our feet; and for relief to sickened hearts gazed on the comic side
+of our world, as illustrated in the innocent pages of `Punch.'
+Poor 'Punch!' good-hearted, kindly-natured `Punch!' a traveller's
+benison on thee!  Thy jokes were as physic; thy innocent satire
+was provocative of hysteric mirth.
+
+Our doors were crowded with curious natives, who looked with
+indescribable wonder at the enormous sheets.  I heard them repeat
+the words, "Khabari Kisungu"--white man's news--often, and heard
+them discussing the nature of such a quantity of news, and
+expressing their belief that the "Wasungu" were "mbyah sana,"
+and very  "mkali;" by which they meant to say that the white men
+were very wicked, and very smart and clever though the term
+wicked is often employed to express high admiration.
+
+On the fourth day from Ugunda, or the 18th of February, and the
+fifty-third day from Ujiji, we made our appearance with flags
+flying and guns firing in the valley of Kwihara, and when the
+Doctor and myself passed through the portals of my old quarters
+I formally welcomed him to Unyanyembe and to my house.
+
+Since the day I had left the Arabs, sick and, weary almost with
+my life, but, nevertheless, imbued with the high hope that my
+mission would succeed, 131 days had elapsed--with what vicissitudes
+of fortune the reader well knows--during which time I had journeyed
+over 1,200 miles.
+
+The myth after which I travelled through the wilderness proved to
+be a fact; and never was the fact more apparent than when the
+Living Man walked with me arm in arm to my old room, and I said
+to him, "Doctor, we are at last HOME!"
+
+
+CHAPTER XV. HOMEWARD BOUND.--LIVINGSTONE'S LAST WORDS
+            THE FINAL FAREWELL
+
+
+
+Unyanyembe was now to me a terrestrial Paradise.  Livingstone was
+no less happy; he was in comfortable quarters, which were a palace
+compared to his hut in Ujiji.  Our store-rooms were full of the
+good things of this life, besides cloth, beads, wire, and the
+thousand and one impedimenta and paraphernalia of travel with which
+I had loaded over one hundred and fifty men at Bagamoyo.  I had
+seventy-four loads of miscellaneous things, the most valuable of
+which were now to be turned over to Livingstone, for his march back
+to the sources of the Nile.
+
+It was a great day with, us when, with hammer and chisel, I broke
+open the Doctor's boxes, that we might feast our famished stomachs
+on the luxuries which were to redeem us from the effect of the
+cacotrophic dourra and maize food we had been subjected to in the
+wilderness.  I conscientiously believed that a diet on potted ham,
+crackers, and jellies would make me as invincible as Talus, and
+that I only required a stout flail to be able to drive the mighty
+Wagogo into the regions of annihiliation, should they dare even to
+wink in a manner I disapproved.
+
+The first box opened contained three tins of biscuits, six tins
+of potted hams--tiny things, not much larger than thimbles, which,
+when opened, proved to be nothing more than a table-spoonful of
+minced meat plentifully seasoned with pepper: the Doctor's stores
+fell five hundred degrees below zero in my estimation.  Next were
+brought out five pots of jam, one of which was opened--this was also
+a delusion.  The stone jars weighed a pound, and in each was found
+a little over a tea-spoonful of jam.  Verily, we began to think our
+hopes and expectations had been raised to too high a pitch.  Three
+bottles of curry were next produced--but who cares for curry?
+Another box was opened, and out tumbled a fat dumpy Dutch cheese,
+hard as a brick, but sound and good; though it is bad for the
+liver in Unyamwezi.  Then another cheese was seen, but this was
+all eaten up--it was hollow and a fraud.  The third box contained
+nothing but two sugar loaves;  the fourth, candles; the fifth,
+bottles of salt, Harvey, Worcester, and Reading sauces, essence
+of anchovies, pepper, and mustard.  Bless me! what food were these
+for the revivifying of a moribund such as I was!  The sixth box
+contained four shirts, two pairs of stout shoes, some stockings and
+shoe-strings, which delighted the Doctor so much when he tried them
+on that he exclaimed, "Richard is himself again!"  "That man," said
+I, "whoever he is, is a friend, indeed."  "Yes, that is my friend
+Waller."
+
+The five other boxes contained potted meat and soups;  but the
+twelfth, containing one dozen bottles of medicinal brandy, was
+gone;and a strict cross-examination of Asmani, the head man of
+Livingstone's caravan, elicited the fact, that not only was one
+case of brandy missing, but also two bales of cloth and four bags
+of the most valuable beads in Africa--sami-sami--which are as gold
+with the natives.
+
+I was grievously disappointed after the stores had been examined;
+everything proved to be deceptions in my jaundiced eyes.  Out of
+the tins of biscuits when opened, there was only one sound box;
+the whole of which would not make one full meal.  The soups--who
+cared for meat soups in Africa?  Are there no bullocks, and sheep,
+and goats in the land, from which far better soup can be made than
+any that was ever potted?  Peas, or any other kind of vegetable
+soup, would have been a luxury; but chicken and game soups!--what
+nonsense!
+
+I then overhauled my own stores.  I found some fine old brandy
+and one bottle of champagne still left; though it was evident,
+in looking at the cloth bales, that dishonesty had been at work;
+and some person happened to suggest Asmani--the head man sent by
+Dr. Kirk in charge of Livingstone's goods--as the guilty party.
+Upon his treasures being examined, I found eight or ten coloured
+cloths, with the mark of my own agent at Zanzibar on them.  As he
+was unable to give a clear account of how they came in his box,
+they were at once confiscated, and distributed among the most
+deserving of the Doctor's people.  Some of the watchmen also
+accused him of having entered into my store-room, and of having
+abstracted two or three gorah of domestics from my bales,
+and of having, some days afterwards, snatched the keys from the
+hands of one of my men, and broken them, lest other people might
+enter, and find evidences of his guilt.  As Asmani was proved to
+be another of the "moral idiots," Livingstone discharged him on
+the spot.  Had we not arrived so soon at Unyanyembe, it is probable
+that the entire stock sent from Zanzibar had in time disappeared.
+
+Unyanyembe being rich in fruits, grain, and cattle, we determined
+to have our Christmas dinner over again in style, and, being
+fortunately in pretty good health, I was enabled to superintend
+its preparation.  Never was such prodigality seen in a tembe of
+Unyamwezi as was seen in ours, nor were ever such delicacies
+provided.
+
+There were but few Arabs in Unyanyembe when we arrived, as they
+were investing the stronghold of Mirambo.  About a week after our
+return, "the little mannikin," Sheikh Sayd bin Salim--El Wali--who
+was the commander-in-chief of their forces, came to Kwihara from
+the front.  But the little Sheikh was in no great hurry to greet
+the man he had wronged so much.  As soon as we heard of his arrival
+we took the opportunity to send men immediately after the goods
+which were forwarded to the Wali's care soon after Livingstone's
+departure for Mikindany Bay.  The first time we sent men for them
+the governor declared himself too sick to attend to such matters,
+but the second day they were surrendered, with a request that the
+Doctor would not be very angry at their condition, as the white
+ants had destroyed everything.
+
+The stores this man had detained at Unyanyembe were in a most sorry
+state.  The expenses were prepaid for their carriage to Ujiji, but
+the goods had been purposely detained at this place by Sayd bin
+Salim since 1867 that he might satisfy his appetite for liquor,
+and probably fall heir to two valuable guns that were known to be
+with them.  The white ants had not only eaten up bodily the box
+in which the guns were packed, but they had also eaten the gunstocks.
+The barrels were corroded, and the locks were quite destroyed.
+The brandy bottles, most singular to relate, had also fallen a prey
+to the voracious and irresistible destroyers the white ants--and,
+by some unaccountable means, they had imbibed the potent Hennessy,
+and replaced the corks with corn-cobs.  The medicines had also
+vanished, and the zinc pots in which they had been snugly packed
+up were destroyed by corrosion.  Two bottles of brandy and one small
+zinc case of medicines only were saved out of the otherwise utter
+wreck.
+
+I also begged the Doctor to send to Sheikh Sayd, and ask him if he
+had received the two letters despatched by him upon his first
+arrival at Ujiji for Dr. Kirk and Lord Clarendon; and if he had
+forwarded them to the coast, as he was desired to do.  The reply
+to the messengers was in the affirmative; and, subsequently, I
+obtained the same answer in the presence of the Doctor,
+
+On the 222nd of February, the pouring rain, which had dogged us
+the entire distance from Ujiji, ceased, and we had now beautiful
+weather; and while I prepared for the homeward march, the Doctor
+was busy writing his letters, and entering his notes into his
+journal, which I was to take to his family.  When not thus
+employed, we paid visits to the Arabs at Tabora, by whom we were
+both received with that bounteous hospitality for which they are
+celebrated.
+
+Among the goods turned over by me to Dr. Livingstone, while
+assorting such cloths as I wished to retain for my homeward trip,
+were--
+
+                                      Doti.   Yards.
+
+First-class American sheeting .  .  .  285  =  1140
+
+  "         Kaniki (blue stuff) .  .  .  16  =   64
+
+Medium        "    (blue stuff) .  .  .  60  =  240
+
+  "          Dabwani cloth   .  .  .  .  41  =   64
+
+             Barsati cloths .  .  .  .   28  =  112
+
+             Printed handkerchiefs .  .  70  =  280
+
+Medium Rehani cloth   .  .  .  .  .     127  =  508
+
+  "    Ismahili  "           .  .  .  .  20  =   80
+
+  "    Sohari    "  .  .  .  .  .        20  =   80
+
+4 pieces fine Kungura (red check)        22  =   88
+
+4 gorah Rehani .  .  .  .  .  .  .        8  =   32
+
+Total number of cloths .                697  =  2788
+
+Besides:
+
+Cloth, 2788 yards.
+
+Assorted beads, 16 sacks, weight = 992 lbs.
+
+Brass wire, Nos.  5 and 6; 10 fraslilah = 350 lbs.
+
+1 canvas tent, waterproof.
+
+1 air-bed.
+
+1 boat (canvas}
+
+1 bag of tools, carpenter's.
+
+1 rip saw.
+
+2 barrels of tar.
+
+12 sheets of ship's copper = 60 lbs.
+
+Clothes.
+
+1 Jocelyn breech-loader (metallic cartridge).
+
+1 Starr's       "           "         "
+
+1 Henry  (16-shooter)       "         "
+
+1 revolver.
+
+200 rounds revolver ammunition.
+
+2000  "      Jocelyn and Starrs ammunition.
+
+1500  "      Henry rifle ammunition.
+
+Cooking utensils, medicine chest, books, sextant, canvas bags, &c.,
+&c., &c.
+
+The above made a total of about forty loads.  Many things in the
+list would have brought fancy prices in Unyanyembe, especially
+the carbines and ammunition, the saw, carpenter's tools the beads,
+and wire.  Out of the thirty-three loads which were stored for him
+in my tembe--the stock sent to Livingstone, Nov. 1,1870--but few
+of them would be available for his return trip to Rua and Manyuema.
+The 696 doti of cloth which were left to him formed the only
+marketable articles of value he possessed; and in Manyuema, where
+the natives manufactured their own cloth, such an article would be
+considered a drug; while my beads and wire, with economy, would
+suffice to keep him and his men over two years in those regions.
+His own cloth, and what I gave him, made in the aggregate 1,393
+doti, which, at 2 doti per day for food, were sufficient to keep
+him and sixty men 696 days.  He had thus four years' supplies.
+The only articles he lacked to make a new and completely fitted-up
+expedition were the following, a list of which he and I drew up;--
+
+A few tins of American wheat-flour.
+    "   "     soda crackers.
+    "   "     preserved fruits
+A few tins of salmon,
+10 lbs.  Hyson tea.
+Some sewing thread and needles.
+1 dozen official envelopes.
+`Nautical Almanac' for 1872 and 1873.
+1 blank journal.
+1 chronometer, stopped.
+1 chain for refractory people.
+
+With the articles just named he would have a total of seventy
+loads, but without carriers they were an incumbrance to him; for,
+with only the nine men which he now had, he could go nowhere with
+such a splendid assortment of goods.  I was therefore commissioned
+to enlist,--as soon as I reached Zanzibar,--fifty freemen, arm them
+with a gun and hatchet each man, besides accoutrements, and to
+purchase two thousand bullets, one thousand flints, and ten kegs of
+gunpowder.  The men were to act as carriers, to follow wherever
+Livingstone might desire to go.  For, without men, he was simply
+tantalized with the aspirations roused in him by the knowledge
+that he had abundance of means, which were irrealizable without
+carriers.  All the wealth of London and New York piled before him
+were totally unavailable to him without the means of locomotion.
+No Mnyamwezi engages himself as carrier during war-time.  You who
+have read the diary of my  'Life in Unyanyembe' know what stubborn
+Conservatives the Wanyamwezi are.  A duty lay yet before me which
+I owed to my illustrious companion, and that was to hurry to the
+coast as if on a matter of life and death--act for him in the matter
+of enlisting men as if he were there himself--to work for him with
+the same zeal as I would for myself--not to halt or rest until his
+desires should be gratified, And this I vowed to do; but it was
+a death-blow to my project of going down the Nile, and getting
+news of Sir S. Baker.
+
+The Doctor's task of writing his letters was ended.  He delivered
+into my hand twenty letters for Great Britain, six for Bombay,
+two for New York, and one for Zanzibar.  The two letters for New
+York were for James Gordon Bennett, junior, as he alone, not his
+father, was responsible for the Expedition sent under my command.
+I beg the reader's pardon for republishing one of these letters
+here, as its spirit and style indicate the man, the mere knowledge
+of whose life or death was worth a costly Expedition.
+
+Ujiji, on Tanganika, East Africa, November, 1871.
+
+James Gordon Bennett, Jr., Esq.
+
+My Dear Sir,--It is in general somewhat difficult to write to one
+we have never seen--it feels so much like addressing an abstract
+idea--but the presence of your representative, Mr. H. M. Stanley,
+in this distant region takes away the strangeness I should otherwise
+have felt, and in writing to thank you for the extreme kindness
+that prompted you to send him, I feel quite at home.
+
+If I explain the forlorn condition in which he found me you will
+easily perceive that I have good reason to use very strong
+expressions of gratitude.  I came to Ujiji off a tramp of between
+four hundred and five hundred miles, beneath a blazing vertical
+sun, having been baffled, worried, defeated and forced to return,
+when almost in sight of the end of the geographical part of my
+mission, by a number of half-caste Moslem slaves sent to me from
+Zanzibar, instead of men.  The sore heart made still sorer by the
+woeful sights I had seen of man's inhumanity to man racked and
+told on the bodily frame, and depressed it beyond measure.  I
+thought that I was dying on my feet.  It is not too much to say
+that almost every step of the weary sultry way was in pain, and
+I reached Ujiji a mere ruckle of bones.
+
+There I found that some five hundred pounds' sterling worth of
+goods which I had ordered from Zanzibar had unaccountably been
+entrusted to a drunken half-caste Moslem tailor, who, after
+squandering them for sixteen months on the way to Ujiji; finished
+up by selling off all that remained for slaves and ivory for himself.
+He had "divined" on the Koran and found that I was dead.  He had
+also written to the Governor of Unyanyembe that he had sent slaves
+after me to Manyuema, who returned and reported my decease, and
+begged permission to sell off the few goods that his drunken
+appetite had spared.
+
+He, however, knew perfectly well, from men who had seen me, that
+I was alive, and waiting for the goods and men; but as for morality,
+he is evidently an idiot, and there being no law here except that
+of the dagger or musket, I had to sit down in great weakness,
+destitute of everything save a few barter cloths and beads, which
+I had taken the precaution to leave here in case of extreme need.
+
+The near prospect of beggary among Ujijians made me miserable.
+
+I could not despair, because I laughed so much at a friend who,
+on reaching the mouth of the Zambezi, said that he was tempted
+to despair on breaking the photograph of his wife.  We could have
+no success after that.  Afterward the idea of despair had to me
+such a strong smack of the ludicrous that it was out of the
+question.
+
+Well, when I had got to about the lowest verge, vague rumors of
+an English visitor reached me.  I thought of myself as the man
+who went down from Jerusalem to Jericho; but neither priest, Levite,
+nor Samaritan could possibly pass my way.  Yet the good Samaritan
+was close at hand, and one of my people rushed up at the top of
+his speed, and, in great excitement, gasped out, "An Englishman
+coming!  I see him!" and off he darted to meet him.
+
+An American flag, the first ever seen in these parts, at the head
+of a caravan, told me the nationality of the stranger.
+
+I am as cold and non-demonstrative as we islanders are usually
+reputed to be; but your kindness made my frame thrill.  It was,
+indeed, overwhelming, and I said in my soul, "Let the richest
+blessings descend from the Highest on you and yours!"
+
+The news Mr. Stanley had to tell was thrilling.  The mighty
+political changes on the Continent; the success of the Atlantic
+cables; the election of General Grant, and many other topics'
+riveted my attention for days together, and had an immediate and
+beneficial effect on my health.  I had been without news from
+home for years save what I could glean from a few 'Saturday
+Reviews' and 'Punch' of 1868.  The appetite revived, and in a
+week I began to feel strong again.
+
+Mr. Stanley brought a most kind and encouraging despatch from
+Lord Clarendon (whose loss I sincerely deplore), the first I have
+received from the Foreign Office since 1866, and information that
+the British Government had kindly sent a thousand pounds sterling
+to my aid.  Up to his arrival I was not aware of any pecuniary
+aid.  I came unsalaried, but this want is now happily repaired,
+and I am anxious that you and all my friends should know that,
+though uncheered by letter, I have stuck to the task which my
+friend Sir Roderick Murchison set me with "John Bullish" tenacity,
+believing that all would come right at last.
+
+The watershed of South Central Africa is over seven hundred wiles
+in length.  The fountains thereon are almost innumerable--that is,
+it would take a man's lifetime to count them.  From the watershed
+they converge into four large rivers, and these again into two
+mighty streams in the great Nile valley, which begins in ten degrees
+to twelve degrees south latitude.  It was long ere light dawned on
+the ancient problem and gave me a clear idea of the drainage.  I had
+to feel my way, and every step of the way, and was, generally,
+groping in the dark--for who cared where the rivers ran?  "We drank
+our fill and let the rest run by."
+
+The Portuguese who visited Cazembe asked for slaves and ivory, and
+heard of nothing else.  I asked about the waters, questioned and
+cross-questioned, until I was almost afraid of being set down as
+afflicted with hydrocephalus.
+
+My last work, in which I have been greatly hindered from want of
+suitable attendants, was following the central line of drainage
+down through the country of the cannibals, called Manyuema, or,
+shortly Manyema.  This line of drainage has four large lakes in
+it.  The fourth I was near when obliged to turn.  It is from one
+to three miles broad, and never can be reached at any point, or
+at any time of the year.  Two western drains, the Lufira, or Bartle
+Frere's River, flow into it at Lake Kamolondo.  Then the great
+River Lomame flows through Lake Lincoln into it too, and seems
+to form the western arm of the Nile, on which Petherick traded.
+
+Now, I knew about six hundred miles of the watershed, and
+unfortunately the seventh hundred is the most interesting of the
+whole; for in it, if I am not mistaken, four fountains arise from
+an earthen mound, and the last of the four becomes, at no great
+distance off, a large river.
+
+Two of these run north to Egypt, Lufira and Lomame, and two run
+south into inner Ethiopia, as the Leambaye, or Upper Zambezi, and
+the Kaful.
+
+Are not these the sources of the Nile mentioned by the Secretary
+of Minerva, in the city of Sais, to Herodotus?
+
+I have heard of them so often, and at great distances off, that I
+cannot doubt their existence, and in spite of the sore longing for
+home that seizes me every time I think of my family, I wish to
+finish up by their rediscovery.
+
+Five hundred pounds sterling worth of goods have again
+unaccountably been entrusted to slaves, and have been over a year
+on the way, instead of four months.  I must go where they lie at
+your expense, ere I can put the natural completion to my work.
+
+And if my disclosures regarding the terrible Ujijian slavery
+should lead to the suppression of the East Coast slave trade, I
+shall regard that as a greater matter by far than the discovery
+of all the Nile sources together.  Now that you have done with
+domestic slavery for ever, lend us your powerful aid toward this
+great object.  This fine country is blighted, as with a curse from
+above, in order that the slavery privileges of the petty Sultan
+of Zanzibar may not be infringed, and the rights of the Crown of
+Portugal, which are mythical, should be kept in abeyance till some
+future time when Africa will become another India to Portuguese
+slave-traders.
+
+I conclude by again thanking you most cordially for your great
+generosity, and am,
+
+Gratefully yours,
+
+David Livingstone.
+
+
+To the above letter I have nothing to add--it speaks for itself;
+but I then thought it was the best evidence of my success.  For
+my own part, I cared not one jot or tittle about his discoveries,
+except so far as it concerned the newspaper which commissioned me
+for the "search."  It is true I felt curious as to the result of his
+travels; but, since he confessed that he had not completed what he
+had begun, I felt considerable delicacy to ask for more than he
+could afford to give.  His discoveries were the fruits of of
+his own labours--to him they belonged--by their publication he
+hoped to obtain his reward, which he desired to settle on his
+children.  Yet Livingstone had a higher and nobler ambition than
+the mere pecuniary sum he would receive: he followed the
+dictates of duty.  Never was such a willing slave to that abstract
+virtue.  His inclinations impelled him home, the fascinations of
+which it required the sternest resolves to resist.  With every
+foot of new ground he travelled over he forged a chain of sympathy
+which should hereafter bind the Christian nations in bonds of love
+and charity to the Heathen of the African tropics.  If he were
+able to complete this chain of love--by actual discovery and
+description of them to embody such peoples and nations as still
+live in darkness, so as to attract the good and charitable of his
+own land to bestir themselves for their redemption and salvation--
+this, Livingstone would consider an ample reward.
+
+"A delirious and fatuous enterprise, a Quixotic scheme!" some will
+say.  Not it, my friends; for as sure as the sun shines on both
+Christian and Infidel, civilised and Pagan, the day of enlightenment
+will come; and, though Livingstone, the Apostle of Africa, may not
+behold it himself, nor we younger men, not yet our children, the
+Hereafter will see it, and posterity will recognise the daring
+pioneer of its civilization.
+
+The following items are extracted in their entirety from my Diary:
+
+March 12th.--The Arabs have sent me as many as forty-five letters
+to carry to the coast.  I am turned courier in my latter days;
+but the reason is that no regularly organized caravans are permitted
+to leave Unyanyembe now, because of the war with Mirambo.  What if
+I had stayed all this time at Unyanyembe waiting for the war to end!
+It is my opinion that, the Arabs will not be able to conquer Mirambo
+under nine months yet.
+
+To-night the natives have gathered themselves together to give me
+a farewell dance in front of my house.  I find them to be the
+pagazis of Singiri, chief of Mtesa's caravan.  My men joined in,
+and, captivated by the music despite myself, I also struck in, and
+performed the "light fantastic," to the intense admiration of my
+braves, who were delighted to see their master unbend a little from
+his usual stiffness.
+
+It is a wild dance altogether.  The music is lively, and evoked
+from the sonorous sound of four drums, which are arranged before
+the bodies of four men, who stand in the centre of the weird
+circle.  Bombay, as ever comical, never so much at home as when in
+the dance of the Mrima, has my water-bucket on his head; Chowpereh--
+the sturdy, the nimble, sure-footed Chowpereh--has an axe in his
+hand, and wears a goatskin on his head; Baraka has my bearskin,
+and handles a spear; Mabruki, the "Bull-headed," has entered into
+the spirit of the thing, and steps up and down like a solemn
+elephant; Ulimengo has a gun, and is a fierce Drawcansir, and you
+would imagine he was about to do battle to a hundred thousand,
+so ferocious is he in appearance; Khamisi and Kamna are before
+the drummers, back to back, kicking up ambitiously at the stars;
+Asmani,--the embodiment of giant strength,--a towering Titan,--
+has also a gun, with which he is dealing blows in the air, as if
+he were Thor, slaying myriads with his hammer.  The scruples and
+passions of us all are in abeyance; we are contending demons under
+the heavenly light of the stars, enacting only the part of a weird
+drama, quickened into action and movement by the appalling energy
+and thunder of the drums.
+
+The warlike music is ended, and another is started.  The choragus
+has fallen on his knees, and dips his head two or three times in an
+excavation in the ground, and a choir, also on their knees, repeat
+in dolorous tones the last words of a slow and solemn refrain.  The
+words are literally translated:--
+
+Choragus.  Oh-oh-oh! the white man is going home!
+
+Choir.     Oh-oh-oh! going home!
+                     Going home, oh-oh-oh!
+
+Choragus.  To the happy island on the sea,
+           Where the beads are plenty, oh-oh-oh!
+
+Choir.     Oh-oh-oh! where the beads are plenty,
+                     Oh-oh-oh!
+
+Choragus.  While Singiri has kept us, oh, very long
+           From our homes very long, oh-oh-oh.!
+
+Choir      From our homes, oh-oh-oh!
+                      Oh-oh-oh!
+
+Choragus.  And we have had no food for very long--
+           We are half-starved, oh, for so long!
+                      Bana Singiri!
+
+Choir.     For so very long, oh-oh-oh!
+                       Bana Singiri-Singiri!
+                            Singiri! oh, Singiri
+
+Choragus.  Mirambo has gone to war
+           To fight against the Arabs;
+           The Arabs and Wangwana
+           Have gone to fight Mirambo!
+
+Choir      Oh-oh-oh! to fight Mirambo!
+
+                        Oh, Mirambo! Mirambo
+                        Oh, to fight Mirambo!
+
+Choragus.  But the white man will make us glad,
+           He is going home!  For he is going home,
+           And he will make us glad!  Sh-sh-sh!
+
+Choir.     The white man will make us glad!  Sh-sh-sh
+                        Sh-----sh-h-h-----sh-h-h-h-h-h!
+                        Um-m--mu---um-m-m----sh!
+
+This is the singular farewell which I received from the Wanyamwezi
+of Singiri, and for its remarkable epic beauty(?), rhythmic
+excellence(?), and impassioned force(?), I have immortalised it in
+the pages of this book, as one of the most wonderful productions of
+the chorus-loving children of Unyamwezi.
+
+March 13th.--The last day of my stay with Livingstone has come
+and gone, and the last night we shall be together is present, and
+I cannot evade the morrow!  I feel as though I would rebel against
+the fate which drives me away from him.  The minutes beat fast,
+and grow into hours.
+
+Our door is closed, and we are both of us busy with our own
+thoughts.  What his thoughts are I know not.  Mine are sad.  My
+days seem to have been spent in an Elysian field; otherwise, why
+should I so keenly regret the near approach of the parting hour?
+Have I not been battered by successive fevers, prostrate with
+agony day after day lately?  Have I not raved and stormed in
+madness?  Have I not clenched my fists in fury, and fought with
+the wild strength of despair when in delirium?  Yet, I regret to
+surrender the pleasure I have felt in this man's society, though
+so dearly purchased.
+
+I cannot resist the sure advance of time, which flies this night
+as if it mocked me, and gloated on the misery it created!
+Be it so!
+
+How many times have I not suffered the pang of parting with
+friends!  I wished to linger longer, but the inevitable would
+come--Fate sundered us.  This is the same regretful feeling, only
+it is more poignant, and the farewell may be forever!  FOREVER?
+And "FOR EVER," echo the reverberations of a woful whisper.
+
+I have noted down all he has said to-night; but the reader shall
+not share it with me.  It is mine!
+
+I am as jealous as he is himself of his Journal; and I have
+written in German text, and in round hand, on either side of it,
+on the waterproof canvas cover, "POSITTVELY NOT TO BE OPENED;"
+to which he has affixed his signature.  I have stenographed every
+word he has said to me respecting the equable distribution of
+certain curiosities among his friends and children, and his last
+wish about "his" dear old friend, Sir Roderick Murchison, because
+he has been getting anxious about him ever since we received the
+newspapers at Ugunda, when we read that the old man was suffering
+from a paralytic stroke.  I must be sure to send him the news, as
+soon as I get to Aden; and I have promised that he will receive
+the message from me quicker than anything was ever received in
+Central Africa.
+
+"To-morrow night, Doctor, you will be alone!"
+
+"Yes; the house will look as though a death had taken place.
+You had better stop until the rains, which are now near,
+are over."
+
+"I would to God I could, my dear Doctor; but every day I stop
+here, now that there is no necessity for me to stay longer, keeps
+you from your work and home."
+
+"I know; but consider your health--you are not fit to travel.
+What is it?  Only a few weeks longer.  You will travel to the
+coast just as quickly when the rains are over as you will by
+going now.  The plains will be inundated between here and the
+coast."
+
+"You think so; but I will reach the coast in forty days; if
+not in forty, I will in fifty--certain.  The thought that I
+am doing you an important service will spur me on."
+
+March 14th.--At dawn we were up, the bales and baggage were taken
+outside of the building, and the men prepared themselves for the
+first march towards home.
+
+We had a sad breakfast together.  I could not eat, my heart was
+too full; neither did my companion seem to have an appetite.  We
+found something to do which kept us longer together.  At 8 o'clock
+I was not gone, and I had thought to have been off at 5 A.M.
+
+"Doctor," said I, "I will leave two men with you, who will stop
+to-day and to-morrow with you, for it may be that you have
+forgotten something in the hurry of my departure.  I will halt a
+day at Tura, on the frontier of Unyamwezi, for your last word,
+and your last wish; and now we must part--there is no help for it.
+Good-bye."
+
+"Oh, I am coming with you a little way.  I must see you off on
+the road."
+
+"Thank you.  Now, my men, Home!  Kirangozi, lift the flag, and
+MARCH!"
+
+The house looked desolate--it faded from our view.  Old times,
+and the memories of my aspirations and kindling hopes, came strong
+on me.  The old hills round about, that I once thought tame and
+uninteresting, had become invested with histories and reminiscences
+for me.  On that burzani I have sat hour after hour, dreaming, and
+hoping, and sighing.  On that col I stood, watching the battle and
+the destruction of Tabora.  Under that roof I have sickened and
+been delirious, and cried out like a child at the fate that
+threatened my mission.  Under that banian tree lay my dead comrade--
+poor Shaw; I would have given a fortune to have had him by my side
+at this time.  From that house I started on my journey to Ujiji;
+to it I returned as to a friend, with a newer and dearer companion;
+and now I leave all.  Already it all appears like a strange dream.
+
+We walked side by side; the men lifted their voices into a song.
+I took long looks at Livingstone, to impress his features
+thoroughly on my memory.
+
+"The thing is, Doctor, so far as I can understand it, you do not
+intend to return home until you have satisfied yourself about the
+`Sources of the Nile.' When you have satisfied yourself, you will
+come home and satisfy others.  Is it not so?"
+
+"That is it, exactly.  When your men come back, I shall immediately
+start for Ufipa; then, crossing the Rungwa River, I shall strike
+south, and round the extremity of the Tanganika.  Then, a south-east
+course will take me to Chicumbi's, on the Luapula.  On crossing
+the Luapula, I shall go direct west to the copper-mines of Katanga.
+Eight days south of Katanga, the natives declare the fountains to be.
+When I have found them, I shall return by Katanga to the underground
+houses of Rua.  From the caverns, ten days north-east will take
+me to Lake Kamolondo.  I shall be able to travel from the lake, in
+your boat, up the River Lufira, to Lake Lincoln.  Then, coming down
+again, I can proceed north, by the Lualaba, to the fourth lake--
+which, I think, will explain the whole problem; and I will probably
+find that it is either Chowambe (Baker's lake), or Piaggia's lake.
+
+"And how long do you think this little journey will take you?"
+
+"A year and a half, at the furthest, from the day I leave
+Unyanyembe."
+
+"Suppose you say two years; contingencies might arise, you know.
+It will be well for me to hire these new men for two years; the
+day of their engagement to begin from their arrival at Unyanyembe."
+
+"Yes, that will do excellently well."
+
+"Now, my dear Doctor, the best friends must part.  You have come
+far enough; let me beg of you to turn back."
+
+"Well, I will say this to you: you have done what few men could
+do--far better than some great travellers I know.  And I am grateful
+to you for what you have done for me.  God guide you safe home, and
+bless you, my friend."
+
+"And may God bring you safe back to us all, my dear friend.
+Farewell!"
+
+"Farewell!"
+
+We wrung each other's hands, and I had to tear myself away before
+I unmanned myself; but Susi, and Chumah, and Hamoydah--the Doctor's
+faithful fellows--they must all shake and kiss my hands before I
+could quite turn away.  I betrayed myself!
+
+"Good-bye, Doctor--dear friend!"
+
+"Good-bye!"
+
+The FAREWELL between Livingstone and myself had been spoken.  We
+were parted, he to whatever fate Destiny had yet in store for him,
+to battling against difficulties, to many, many days of marching
+through wildernesses, with little or nothing much to sustain him
+save his own high spirit, and enduring faith in God--"who would
+bring all things right at last;" and I to that which Destiny
+may have in store for me.
+
+But though I may live half a century longer, I shall never forget
+that parting scene in Central Africa.  I shall never cease to think
+of the sad tones of that sorrowful word Farewell, how they
+permeated through every core of my heart, how they clouded my
+eyes, and made me wish unutterable things which could never be.
+
+An audacious desire to steal one embrace from the dear old man came
+over me, and almost unmanned me.  I felt tempted to stop with him
+and assist him, on his long return march to the fountain region,
+but these things were not to be, any more than many other
+impulsive wishes, and despite the intensified emotions which filled
+both of us, save by silent tears, and a tremulous parting word,
+we did not betray our stoicism of manhood and race.
+
+I assumed a gruff voice, and ordered the Expedition to march,
+and I resolutely turned my face toward the eastern sky.  But ever
+and anon my eyes would seek that deserted figure of an old man in
+grey clothes, who with bended head and slow steps was returning to
+his solitude, the very picture of melancholy, and each time I saw
+him--as the plain was wide and clear of obstructions--I felt my
+eyes stream, and my heart swell with a vague, indefinable feeling
+of foreboding and sorrow.
+
+I thought of his lonely figure sitting day after day on the
+burzani of his house, by which all caravans from the coast would
+have to pass, and of the many, many times he would ask the
+new-comers whether they had passed any men coming along the road
+for him, and I thought as each day passed, and his stores and
+letters had not arrived how be would grieve at the lengthening
+delay.  I then felt strong again, as I felt that so long as I
+should be doing service for Livingstone, I was not quite parted
+from him, and by doing the work effectively and speedily the
+bond of friendship between us would be strengthened.  Such
+thoughts spurred me to the resolution to march so quickly for
+the coast, that Arabs in after time should marvel at the speed
+with which the white man's caravan travelled from Unyanyembe
+to Zanzibar.
+
+I took one more look at him; he was standing near the gate of
+Kwikuru with his servants near him.  I waved a handkerchief to him,
+as a final token of farewell, and he responded to it by lifting
+his cap.  It was the last opportunity, for we soon surmounted the
+crest of a land-wave, and began the descent into the depression on
+the other side, and I NEVER saw him more.
+
+God grant, dear reader, that if ever you take to travelling in
+Central Africa, you find as good and true a man, for your
+companion, as I found in noble David Livingstone.  For four months
+and four days he and I occupied the same house, or, the same tent,
+and I never had one feeling of resentment against him, nor did he
+show any against me, and the longer I lived with him the more did
+my admiration and reverence for him increase.
+
+What were Livingstone's thoughts during the time which elapsed
+between my departure for the coast, and the arrival of his
+supplies, may be gathered from a letter which he wrote on the 2nd
+of July to Mr. John F. Webb, American Consul at Zanzibar.
+
+  I have been waiting up here like Simeon Stylites on his pillar,
+  and counting every day, and conjecturing each step taken by our
+  friend towards the coast, wishing and praying that no sickness
+  might lay him up, no accident befall him, and no unlooked-for
+  combinations of circumstances render his kind intentions vain
+  or fruitless.  Mr. Stanley had got over the tendency to the
+  continued form of fever which is the most dangerous, and was
+  troubled only with the intermittent form, which is comparatively
+  safe, or I would not have allowed him, but would have accompanied
+  him to Zanzibar.  I did not tell himself so; nor did I say what I
+  thought, that he really did a very plucky thing in going through
+  the Mirambo war in spite of the remonstrances of all the Arabs,
+  and from Ujiji guiding me back to Unyanyembe.  The war, as it
+  is called, is still going on.  The danger lay not so much in
+  the actual fighting as in the universal lawlessness the war
+  engendered.
+
+I am not going to inflict on the reader a repetition of our march
+back, except to record certain incidents which occurred to us as we
+journeyed to the coast.
+
+March 17th.--We came to the Kwalah River.  The first rain of the
+Masika season fell on this day; I shall be mildewed before I reach
+the coast.  Last year's Masika began at Bagamoyo, March 23rd, and
+ended 30th April.
+
+The next day I halted the Expedition at Western Tura, on the
+Unyamwezi frontier, and on the 20th arrived at Eastern Tura; when,
+soon after, we heard a loud report of a gun, and Susi and Hamoydah,
+the Doctor's servants, with Uredi, and another of my men, appeared
+with a letter for "Sir Thomas MacLear, Observatory, Cape of Good
+Hope," and one for myself, which read as follows:
+
+Kwihara, March 15, 1872.
+
+Dear Stanley,
+
+If you can telegraph on your arrival in London, be particular,
+please, to say how Sir Roderick is.  You put the matter exactly
+yesterday, when you said that I was "not yet satisfied about the
+Sources; but as soon as I shall be satisfied, I shall return and
+give satisfactory reasons fit for other people."  This is just as
+it stands.
+
+I wish I could give you a better word than the Scotch one to "put
+a stout heart to a stey brae"--(a steep ascent)--for you will do
+that; and I am thankful that, before going away, the fever had
+changed into the intermittent, or safe form.  I would not have
+let you go, but with great concern, had you still been troubled
+with the continued type.  I feel comfortable in commending you
+to the guardianship of the good Lord and Father of all.
+
+I am gratefully yours,
+
+David Livingstone.
+
+I have worked as hard as I could copying observations made in one
+line of march from Kabuire, back again to Cazembe, and on to Lake
+Baugweolo, and am quite tired out.  My large figures fill six
+sheets of foolscap, and many a day will elapse ere I take to
+copying again.  I did my duty when ill at Ujiji in 1869, and am
+not to blame, though they grope a little in the dark at home.
+Some Arab letters have come, and I forward them to you.
+
+D. L.
+
+March 16, 1872.
+
+P.S.--I have written a note this morning to Mr. Murray,
+50, Albemarle Street, the publisher, to help you, if necessary,
+in sending the Journal by book post, or otherwise, to Agnes.
+If you call on him you will find him a frank gentleman.  A pleasant
+journey to you.
+
+
+David Livingstone.
+
+To Henry M. Stanley, Esq.,
+Wherever he may be found.
+
+
+Several Wangwana arrived at Tura to join our returning Expedition,
+as they were afraid to pass through Ugogo by themselves; others
+were reported coming; but as all were sufficiently warned at
+Unyanyembe that the departure of the caravan would take place
+positively on the 14th, I was not disposed to wait longer.
+
+As we were leaving Tura, on the 21st, Susi and Hamoydah were sent
+back to the Doctor, with last words from me, while we continued our
+march to Nghwhalah River.
+
+Two days afterwards we arrived before the village of Ngaraisa,
+into which the head of the caravan attempted to enter but the
+angry Wakimbu forcibly ejected them.
+
+On the 24th, we encamped in the jungle, in what is called the
+"tongoni," or clearing.
+
+This region was at one period in a most flourishing state; the
+soil is exceedingly fertile; the timber is large, and would be
+valuable near the coast; and, what is highly appreciated in
+Africa, there is an abundance of water.  We camped near a smooth,
+broad hump of syenite, at one end of which rose, upright and grand,
+a massive square rock, which towered above several small trees in
+the vicinity; at the other end stood up another singular rock,
+which was loosened at the base.
+
+The members of the Expedition made use of the great sheet of rock
+to grind their grain; a common proceeding in these lands where
+villages are not near, or when the people are hostile.
+
+On the 27th of March we entered Kiwyeh.  At dawn, when leaving
+Mdaburu River, the solemn warning had been given that we were
+about entering Ugogo; and as we left Kaniyaga village, with
+trumpet-like blasts of the guide's horn, we filed into the depths
+of an expanse of rustling Indian corn.  The ears were ripe enough
+for parching and roasting, and thus was one anxiety dispelled
+by its appearance; for generally, in early March, caravans
+suffer from famine, which overtakes both natives and strangers.
+
+We soon entered the gum-tree districts, and we knew we were in
+Ugogo.  The forests of this country are chiefly composed of the
+gum and thorn species--mimosa and tamarisk, with often a variety
+of wild fruit trees.  The grapes were plentiful, though they were
+not quite ripe; and there was also a round, reddish fruit with the
+sweetness of the Sultana grape, with leaves like a gooseberry-bush.
+There was another about the size of an apricot, which was
+excessively bitter.
+
+Emerging from the entangled thorn jungle, the extensive settlements
+of Kiwyeh came into view; and to the east of the chief's village
+we found a camping place under the shade of a group of colossal
+baobab.
+
+We had barely encamped when we heard the booming, bellowing war
+horns sounding everywhere, and we espied messengers darting swiftly
+in every direction giving the alarm of war.  When first informed
+that the horns were calling the people to arm themselves, and
+prepare for war, I half suspected that an attack was about to be
+made on the Expedition; but the words "Urugu, warugu" (thief!
+thieves!)--bandied about, declared the cause.  Mukondoku, the chief
+of the populous district two days to the north-east, where we
+experienced some excitement when westward-bound, was marching to
+attack the young Mtemi, Kiwyeh, and Kiwyeh's soldiers were called
+to the fight.  The men rushed to their villages, and in a short
+time we saw them arrayed in full fighting costume.  Feathers of the
+ostrich and the eagle waved over their fronts, or the mane of the
+zebra surrounded their heads; their knees and ankles were hung
+with little bells; joho robes floated behind, from their necks;
+spears, assegais, knob-sticks, and bows were flourished over their
+heads, or held in their right hands, as if ready for hurling.  On
+each flank of a large body which issued from the principal village,
+and which came at a uniform swinging double-quick, the ankle and
+knee bells all chiming in admirable unison, were a cloud of
+skirmishers, consisting of the most enthusiastic, who exercised
+themselves in mimic war as they sped along.  Column after column,
+companies, and groups from every village hurried on past our camp
+until, probably, there were nearly a thousand soldiers gone to the
+war.  This scene gave me a better idea than anything else of the
+weakness of even the largest caravans which travelled between
+Zanzibar and Unyanyembe.
+
+At night the warriors returned from the forest; the alarm proved
+to be without foundation.  At first it was generally reported that
+the invaders were Wahehe, or the Wadirigo, as that tribe are
+scornfully called from their thieving propensities.  The Wahehe
+frequently make a foray upon the fat cattle of Ugogo.  They travel
+from their own country in the south-east, and advance through the
+jungle, and when about to approach the herds, stoop down, covering
+their bodies with their shields of bull-hide.  Having arrived
+between the cattle and the herdsmen, they suddenly rise up and
+begin to switch the cattle heartily, and, having started them off
+into the jungle in the care of men already detailed for the work,
+they turn about, and plant their shields before them, to fight
+the aroused shepherds.
+
+On the 30th we arrived at Khonze, which is remarkable for the
+mighty globes of foliage which the giant sycamores and baobabs put
+forth above the plain.  The chief of Khonze boasts of four tembes,
+out of which he could muster in the aggregate fifty armed men;
+yet this fellow, instigated by the Wanyamwezi residents, prepared
+to resist our advance, because I only sent him three doti--twelve
+yards of cloth--as honga.
+
+We were halted, waiting the return of a few friendly Wagogo
+travellers who had joined us, and who were asked to assist Bombay
+in the negotiation of the tribute, when the Wagogo returned to us
+at breathless speed, and shouted out to me, "Why do you halt here?
+Do you wish to die?  These pagans will not take the tribute, but
+they boast that they will eat up all your cloth."
+
+The renegade Wanyamwezi who had married into Wagogo families were
+always our bane in this country.  As the chief of Khonze came up
+I ordered the men to load their guns, and I loaded my own
+ostentatiously in his presence, and then strode up to him, and
+asked if he had come to take the cloth by force, or if he were
+going to accept quietly what I would give him.  As the Mnyamwezi
+who caused this show of hostilities was beginning to speak, I
+caught him by the throat, and threatened to make his nose flatter
+if he attempted to speak again in my presence, and to shoot him
+first, if we should be forced to fight.  The rascal was then pushed
+away into the rear.  The chief, who was highly amused with this
+proceeding, laughed loudly at the discomfiture of the parasite,
+and in a short time he and I had settled the tribute to our mutual
+satisfaction, and we parted great friends.  The Expedition arrived
+at Sanza that night.
+
+On the 31st we came to Kanyenyi, to the great Mtemi--Magomba's--
+whose son and heir is Mtundu M'gondeh.  As we passed by the tembe
+of the great Sultan, the msagira, or chief counsellor, a pleasant
+grey-haired man, was at work making a thorn fence around a patch
+of young corn.  He greeted the caravan with a sonorous "Yambo,"
+and, putting himself at its head, he led the way to our camp.
+When introduced to me he was very cordial in his manner.
+He was offered a kiti-stool and began to talk very affably.
+He remembered my predecessors, Burton, Speke, and Grant, very well;
+declared me to be much younger than any of them; and, recollecting
+that one of the white men used to drink asses' milk (Burton?),
+offered to procure me some.  The way I drank it seemed to give
+him very great satisfaction.
+
+His son, Unamapokera, was a tall man of thirty or thereabouts,
+and he conceived a great friendship for me, and promised that the
+tribute should be very light, and that he would send a man to show
+me the way to Myumi, which was a village on the frontier of Kanyenyi,
+by which I would be enabled to avoid the rapacious Kisewah, who was
+in the habit of enforcing large tribute from caravans.
+
+With the aid of Unamapokera and his father, we contrived to be
+mulcted very lightly, for we only paid ten doti, while Burton was
+compelled to pay sixty doti or two hundred and forty yards of cloth.
+
+On the 1st of April, rising early, we reached Myumi after a four
+hours' march; then plunged into the jungle, and, about 2 P.M.
+arrived at a large ziwa, or pond, situate in the middle of a
+jungle; and on the next day, at 10 A.M., reached the fields of
+Mapanga.  We were passing the village of Mapanga to a resting-place
+beyond the village, where we might breakfast and settle the honga,
+when a lad rushed forward to meet us, and asked us where we were
+going.  Having received a reply that we were going to a
+camping-place, he hastened on ahead, and presently we heard him
+talking to some men in a field on our right.
+
+In the meantime, we had found a comfortable shady place, and had
+come to a halt; the men were reclining on the ground, or standing
+up near their respective loads; Bombay was about opening a bale,
+when we heard a great rush of men, and loud shouts, and,
+immediately after, out rushed from the jungle near by a body of
+forty or fifty armed men, who held their spears above their
+heads, or were about to draw their bows, with a chief at their
+head, all uttering such howls of rage as only savages can, which
+sounded like a long-drawn "Hhaat-uh--Hhaat-uhh-uhh," which meant,
+unmistakably, "You will, will you?  No, you will not!"--at once
+determined, defiant, and menacing.
+
+I had suspected that the voices I heard boded no good to us,
+and I had accordingly prepared my weapons and cartridges.  Verily,
+what a fine chance for adventure this was!  One spear flung at us,
+or one shot fired into this minatory mob of savages, and the
+opposing' bands had been plunged into a fatal conflict!  There
+would have been no order of battle, no pomp of war, but a murderous
+strife, a quick firing of breech-loaders, and volleys from
+flint-lock muskets, mixed with the flying of spears and twanging
+of bows, the cowardly running away at once, pursued by yelping
+savages; and who knows how it all would have terminated?  Forty
+spears against forty guns--but how many guns would not have
+decamped?  Perhaps all, and I should have been left with my
+boy gunbearers to have my jugular deliberately severed, or
+to be decapitated, leaving my head to adorn a tall pole in
+the centre of a Kigogo village, like poor Monsieur Maizan's
+at Dege la Mhora, in Uzaramo.  Happy end of an Expedition!
+And the Doctor's Journal lost for ever--the fruits of six
+years' labor!
+
+But in this land it will not do to fight unless driven to the very
+last extremity.  No belligerent Mungo Park can be successful in
+Ugogo unless he has a sufficient force of men with him.  With five
+hundred Europeans one could traverse Africa from north to south,
+by tact, and the moral effect that such a force would inspire.
+Very little fighting would be required.
+
+Without rising from the bale on which I was seated, I requested the
+kirangozi to demand an explanation of their furious hubbub and
+threatening aspect; if they were come to rob us.
+
+"No," said the chief; "we do not want to stop the road, or to
+rob you; but we want the tribute."
+
+"But don't you see us halted, and the bale opened to send it to
+you?  We have come so far from your village that after the tribute
+is settled we can proceed on our way, as the day is yet young."
+
+The chief burst into a loud laugh, and was joined by ourselves.
+He evidently felt ashamed of his conduct for he voluntarily offered
+the explanation, that as he and his men were cutting wood to make
+a new fence for his village, a lad came up to him, and said that
+a caravan of Wangwana were about passing through the country
+without stopping to explain who they were.  We were soon very
+good friends.  He begged of me to make rain for him, as his crops
+were suffering, and no rain had fallen for months.  I told him that
+though white people were very great and clever people, much
+superior to the Arabs, yet we could not make rain.  Though very
+much disappointed, he did not doubt my statement, and after
+receiving his honga, which was very light, he permitted us to go
+on our way, and even accompanied us some distance to show us the
+road.
+
+At 3 P.M. we entered a thorny jungle; and by 5 P.M. we had
+arrived at Muhalata, a district lorded over by the chief Nyamzaga.
+A Mgogo, of whom I made a friend, proved very staunch.  He belonged
+to Mulowa, a country to the S.S.E., and south of Kulabi; and was
+active in promoting my interests by settling the tribute, with
+the assistance of Bombay, for me.  When, on the next day, we passed
+through Kulabi on our way to Mvumi, and the Wagogo were about to
+stop us for the honga, he took upon himself the task of relieving
+us from further toll, by stating we were from Ugogo or Kanyenyi.
+The chief simply nodded his head, and we passed on.  It seems that
+the Wagogo do not exact blackmail of those caravans who intend only
+to trade in their own country, or have no intention of passing
+beyond their own frontier.
+
+Leaving Kulabi, we traversed a naked, red, loamy plain, over which
+the wind from the heights of Usagara, now rising a bluish-black
+jumble of mountains in our front, howled most fearfully.  With
+clear, keen, incisive force, the terrible blasts seemed to
+penetrate through an through our bodies, as though we were but
+filmy gauze.  Manfully battling against this mighty "peppo "--
+storm--we passed through Mukamwa's, and crossing a broad sandy
+bed of a stream, we entered the territory of Mvumi, the last
+tribute-levying chief of Ugogo.
+
+The 4th of April, after sending Bombay and my friendly Mgogo
+with eight doti, or thirty-two yards of cloth, as a farewell
+tribute to the Sultan, we struck off through the jungle, and in
+five hours we were on the borders of the wilderness of "Marenga
+Mkali"--the "hard," bitter or brackish, water.
+
+From our camp I despatched three men to Zanzibar with letters to
+the American Consul, and telegraphic despatches for the `Herald,'
+with a request to the Consul that he would send the men back with
+a small case or two containing such luxuries as hungry, worn-out,
+and mildewed men would appreciate.  The three messengers were
+charged not to halt for anything--rain or no rain, river or
+inundation--as if they did not hurry up we should catch them
+before they reached the coast.  With a fervent "Inshallah, bana,"
+they departed.
+
+On the 5th, with a loud, vigorous, cheery "Hurrah!" we plunged
+into the depths of the wilderness, which, with its eternal silence
+and solitude, was far preferable to the jarring, inharmonious
+discord of the villages of the Wagogo.  For nine hours we held on
+our way, starting with noisy shouts the fierce rhinoceros, the
+timid quagga, and the herds of antelopes which crowd the jungles
+of this broad salina.  On the 7th, amid a pelting rain, we entered
+Mpwapwa, where my Scotch assistant, Farquhar, died.  We had
+performed the extraordinary march of 338 English statute miles
+from the 14th of March to the 7th of April, or within twenty-four
+days, inclusive of halts, which was a little over fourteen miles
+a day.
+
+Leukole, the chief of Mpwapwa, with whom I left Farquhar, gave the
+following account of the death of the latter:--
+
+"The white man seemed to be improving after you left him, until
+the, fifth day, when, while attempting to rise and walk out of his
+tent, he fell back; from that minute he got worse and worse, and
+in the afternoon he died, like one going to sleep.  His legs and
+abdomen had swollen considerably, and something, I think, broke
+within him when he fell, for he cried out like a man who was very
+much hurt, and his servant said, `The master says he is dying.'
+
+"We had him carried out under a large tree, and after covering him
+with leaves, there left him.  His servant took possession of his
+things, his rifle, clothes, and blanket, and moved off to the tembe
+of a Mnyamwezi, near Kisokweh, where he lived for three months,
+when he also died.  Before he died he sold his master's rifle to an
+Arab going to Unyanyembe for ten doti (forty yards of cloth).
+That is all I know about it."
+
+He subsequently showed me the hollow into which the dead body
+of Farquhar was thrown, but I could not find a vestige of his
+bones, though we looked sharply about that we might make a decent
+grave for them.  Before we left Unyanyembe fifty men were
+employed two days carrying rocks, with which I built up a solid
+enduring pile around Shaw's grave eight feet long and five feet
+broad, which Dr. Livingstone said would last hundreds of years,
+as the grave of the first white man who died in Unyamwezi.
+But though we could not discover any remains of the unfortunate
+Farquhar, we collected a large quantity of stones, and managed
+to raise a mound near the banks of the stream to commemorate
+the spot where his body was laid.
+
+It was not until we had entered the valley of the Mukondokwa River
+that we experienced anything like privation or hardship from the
+Masika.  Here the torrents thundered and roared; the river was a
+mighty brown flood, sweeping downward with, an almost resistless
+flow.  The banks were brimful, and broad nullahs were full of
+water, and the fields were inundated, and still the rain came
+surging down in a shower, that warned us of what we might expect
+during our transit of the sea-coast region.  Still we urged our
+steps onward like men to whom every moment was precious--as if a
+deluge was overtaking us.  Three times we crossed this awful flood
+at the fords by means of ropes tied to trees from bank to bank,
+and arrived at Kadetamare on the 11th, a most miserable, most
+woe-begone set of human beings; and camped on a hill opposite
+Mount Kibwe, which rose on the right of the river--one of the
+tallest peaks of the range.
+
+On the 12th of April, after six hours of the weariest march I had
+ever undergone, we arrived at the mouth of the Mukondokwa Pass,
+out of which the river debouches into the Plain of Makata.  We knew
+that it was an unusual season, for the condition of the country,
+though bad enough the year before, was as nothing compared to this
+year.  Close to the edge of the foaming, angry flood lay our route,
+dipping down frequently into deep ditches, wherein we found
+ourselves sometimes up to the waist in water, and sometimes up
+to the throat.  Urgent necessity impelled us onward, lest we might
+have to camp at one of these villages until the end of the monsoon
+rains; so we kept on, over marshy bottoms, up to the knees in mire,
+under jungly tunnels dripping with wet, then into sloughs arm-pit
+deep.  Every channel seemed filled to overflowing, yet down the
+rain poured, beating the surface of the river into yellowish foam,
+pelting us until we were almost breathless.  Half a day's battling
+against such difficulties brought us, after crossing the river,
+once again to the dismal village of Mvumi.
+
+We passed the night fighting swarms of black and voracious
+mosquitoes, and in heroic endeavours to win repose in sleep,
+in which we were partly successful, owing to the utter weariness
+of our bodies.
+
+On the 13th we struck out of the village of Mvumi.  It had rained
+the whole night, and the morning brought no cessation.  Mile after
+mile we traversed, over fields covered by the inundation, until we
+came to a branch river-side once again, where the river was narrow,
+and too deep to ford in the middle.  We proceeded to cut a tree
+down, and so contrived that it should fall right across the stream.
+Over this fallen tree the men, bestriding it, cautiously moved
+before them their bales and boxes; but one young fellow,
+Rojab--through over-zeal, or in sheer madness--took up the Doctor's
+box which contained his letters and Journal of his discoveries on
+his head, and started into the river.  I had been the first to
+arrive on the opposite bank, in order to superintend the crossing;
+when I caught sight of this man walking in the river with the most
+precious box of all on his head.  Suddenly he fell into a deep
+hole, and the man and box went almost out of sight, while I was in
+an agony at the fate which threatened the despatches.  Fortunately,
+he recovered himself and stood up, while I shouted to him, with
+a loaded revolver pointed at his head, "Look out!  Drop that bog,
+and I'll shoot you."
+
+All the men halted in their work while they gazed at their
+comrade who was thus imperilled by bullet and flood.  The man
+himself seemed to regard the pistol with the greatest awe, and
+after a few desperate efforts succeeded in getting the box safely
+ashore.  As the articles within were not damaged, Rojab escaped
+punishment, with a caution not to touch the bog again on any
+account, and it was transferred to the keeping of the sure-footed
+and perfect pagazi, Maganga.
+
+From this stream, in about an hour, we came to the main river,
+but one look at its wild waters was enough.  We worked hard to
+construct a raft, but after cutting down four trees and lashing
+the green logs together, and pushing them into the whirling
+current, we saw them sink like lead.  We then tied together all
+the strong rope in our possession, and made a line 180 feet long,
+with one end of which tied round his body, Chowpereh was sent across
+to lash it to a tree.  He was carried far down the stream; but
+being an excellent swimmer, he succeeded in his attempt.  The bales
+were lashed around the middle, and, heaved into the stream, were
+dragged through the river to the opposite bank, as well as the
+tent, and such things as could not be injured much by the water.
+Several of the men, as well as myself, were also dragged through
+the water; each of the boys being attended by the best swimmers;
+but when we came to the letter-boxes and valuables, we could suggest
+no means to take them over.  Two camps were accordingly made, one
+on each side of the stream; the one on the bank which I had just
+left occupying an ant-hill of considerable height; while my party
+had to content itself with a flat, miry marsh.  An embankment of
+soil, nearly a foot high, was thrown up in a circle thirty feet
+in diameter, in the centre of which my tent was pitched, and
+around it booths were erected.
+
+It was an extraordinary and novel position that we found ourselves
+in.  Within twenty feet of our camp was a rising river, with flat,
+low banks; above us was a gloomy, weeping sky; surrounding us on
+three sides was an immense forest, on whose branches we heard the
+constant, pattering rain; beneath our feet was a great depth of mud,
+black and loathsome; add to these the thought that the river might
+overflow, and sweep us to utter destruction.
+
+In the morning the river was still rising, and an inevitable doom
+seemed to hang over us.  There was yet time to act--to bring over
+the people, with the most valuable effects of the Expedition--as
+I considered Dr. Livingstone's Journal and letters, and my own
+papers, of far greater value than anything else.  While looking at
+the awful river an idea struck me that I might possibly carry the
+boxes across, one at a time, by cutting two slender poles, and
+tying cross sticks to them, making a kind of hand-barrow, on which
+a box might rest when lashed to it.  Two men swimming across, at
+the same time holding on to the rope, with the ends of the poles
+resting on the men's shoulders, I thought, would be enabled to
+convey over a 70 lb. box with ease.  In a short time one of these
+was made, and six couples of the strongest swimmers were prepared,
+and stimulated with a rousing glass of stiff grog each man, with
+a promise of cloth to each also if they succeeded in getting
+everything ashore undamaged by the water.  When I saw with what
+ease they dragged themselves across, the barrow on their
+shoulders, I wondered that I had not thought of the plan before.
+Within an hour of the first couple had gone over, the entire
+Expedition was safe on the eastern bank; and at once breaking
+camp, we marched north through the swampy forest, which in some
+places was covered with four feet of water.  Seven hours'
+constant splashing brought us to Rehenneko, after experiencing
+several queer accidents.  We were now on the verge only of the
+inundated plain of the Makata, which, even with the last year's
+rain, was too horrible to think of undertaking again in cold blood.
+
+We were encamped ten days on a hill near Rehenneko, or until the
+25th, when, the rain having entirely ceased, we resolved to
+attempt the crossing of the Makata.  The bales of cloth had all
+been distributed as presents to the men for their work, except a
+small quantity which I retained for the food of my own mess.
+
+But we should have waited a month longer, for the inundation had
+not abated four inches.  However, after we once struggled up to our
+necks in water it was use less to turn back.  For two marches of
+eight hours each we plunged through slush, mire, deep sloughs,
+water up to our necks, and muddy cataclysms, swam across nullahs,
+waded across gullies, and near sunset of the second day arrived on
+the banks of the Makata River.  My people are not likely to
+forget that night; not one of them was able to sleep until it was
+long past midnight, because of the clouds of mosquitoes, which
+threatened to eat us all up; and when the horn sounded for the
+march of another day, there was not one dissentient amongst them.
+
+It was 5 A.M. when we began the crossing of the Makata River, but
+beyond it for six miles stretched one long lake, the waters of
+which flowed gently towards the Wami.  This was the confluence of
+the streams: four rivers were here gathered into one.  The natives
+of Kigongo warned us not to attempt it, as the water was over our
+heads; but I had only to give a hint to the men, and we set on our
+way.  Even the water--we were getting quite amphibious--was better
+than the horrible filth and piles of decaying vegetation which
+were swept against the boma of the village.
+
+We were soon up to our armpits, then the water shallowed to the
+knee, then we stepped up to the neck, and waded on tiptoe,
+supporting the children above the water; and the same experiences
+occurred as those which we suffered the day before, until we were
+halted on the edge of the Little Makata, which raced along at the
+rate of eight knots an hour; but it was only fifty yards wide,
+and beyond it rose a high bank, and dry park-lands which extended
+as far as Simbo.  We had no other option than to swim it; but it
+was a slow operation, the current was so swift and strong.
+Activity and zeal, high rewards, presents of money, backed by the
+lively feeling that we were nearing home, worked wonders, and in
+a couple of hours we were beyond the Makata.
+
+Cheery and hopeful, we sped along the dry, smooth path that now
+lay before us, with the ardor and vivacity of heroes, and the
+ease and power of veterans, We rolled three ordinary marches
+into one that day, and long before night arrived at Simbo.
+
+On the 29th we crossed the Ungerengeri, and as we came to
+Simbamwenni-the "Lion City" of Useguhha--lo! what a change!
+The flooded river had swept the entire front wall of the
+strongly-walled city away, and about fifty houses had been
+destroyed by the torrent.  Villages of Waruguru, on the slopes
+of the Uruguru Mountains--Mkambaku range--had also suffered
+disastrously.  If one-fourth of the reports we heard were true,
+at least a hundred people must have perished.
+
+The Sultana had fled, and the stronghold of Kimbengo was no more!
+A deep canal that he had caused to be excavated when alive, to
+bring a branch of the Ungerengeri near his city--which was his glory
+and boast--proved the ruin of Simbamwenni.  After the destruction
+of the place the river had formed a new bed, about 300 yards from
+the city.  But what astonished us most were the masses of debris
+which seemed to be piled everywhere, and the great numbers of trees
+that were prostrate; and they all seemed to lie in the same direction,
+as if a strong wind had come from the south-west.  The aspect of
+the Ungerengeri valley was completely changed--from a Paradise
+it was converted into a howling waste.
+
+We continued our march until we reached Ulagalla, and it was
+evident, as we advanced, that an unusual storm had passed over
+the land, for the trees in some places seemed to lie in swathes.
+
+A most fatiguing and long march brought us to Mussoudi, on the
+eastern bank of the Ungerengeri; but long before we reached it we
+realized that a terrific destruction of human life and property
+had occurred.  The extent and nature of the calamity may be
+imagined, when I state that nearly ONE HUNDRED VILLAGES, according
+to Mussoudi's report, were swept away.
+
+Mussoudi, the Diwan, says that the inhabitants had gone to rest
+as usual--as they had done ever since he had settled in the valley,
+twenty-five years ago--when, in the middle of the night, they heard
+a roar like many thunders, which woke them up to the fact that
+death was at work in the shape of an enormous volume of water,
+that, like a wall, came down, tearing the tallest trees
+with it, carrying away scores of villages at one fell, sure swoop
+into utter destruction.  The scene six days after the event--when
+the river has subsided into its normal breadth and depth during
+the monsoons--is simply awful.  Wherever we look, we find something
+very suggestive of the devastation that has visited the country;
+fields of corn are covered with many feet of sand and debris; the
+sandy bed the river has deserted is about a mile wide; and there
+are but three villages standing of all that I noticed when en route
+to Unyanyembe.  When I asked Mussoudi where the people had gone to,
+he replied, "God has taken most of them, but some have gone to
+Udoe."  The surest blow ever struck at the tribe of the Wakami
+was indeed given by the hand of God; and, to use the words of
+the Diwan, "God's power is wonderful, and who can resist Him!"
+
+I again resort to my Diary, and extract the following:
+
+April 30th.--Passing Msuwa, we travelled hurriedly through the
+jungle which saw such hard work with us when going to Unyanyembe.
+What dreadful odors and indescribable loathing this jungle
+produces!  It is so dense that a tiger could not crawl through
+it; it is so impenetrable that an elephant could not force his
+way!  Were a bottleful of concentrated miasma, such as we inhale
+herein, collected, what a deadly poison, instantaneous in its
+action, undiscoverable in its properties, would it be!  I think
+it would act quicker than chloroform, be as fatal as prussic
+acid.
+
+Horrors upon horrors are in it.  Boas above our heads,
+snakes and scorpions under our feet.  Land-crabs, terrapins,
+and iguanas move about in our vicinity.  Malaria is in the air
+we breathe; the road is infested with "hotwater" ants, which
+bite our legs until we dance and squirm about like madmen.
+Yet, somehow, we are fortunate enough to escape annihilation,
+and many another traveller might also.  Yet here, in verity,
+are the ten plagues of Egypt, through which a traveller in
+these regions must run the gauntlet:
+
+1.  Plague of boas.            |   7.  Suffocation from the
+2.  Red ants, or "hot-water."  |       density of the jungle.
+3   Scorpions.                 |   8.  Stench.
+4.  Thorns and spear cacti.    |   9.  Thorns in the road.
+5.  Numerous impediments.      |  10.  Miasma.
+6   Black mud knee-deep.       |
+
+May 1st. Kingaru Hera.--We heard news of a great storm having
+raged at Zanzibar, which has destroyed every house and every
+ship,--so the story runs;--and the same destruction has visited
+Bagamoyo and Whinde, they say.  But I am by this time pretty
+well acquainted with the exaggerative tendency of the African.
+It is possible that serious loss has been sustained, from the
+evidences of the effects of the storm in the interior.  I hear,
+also, that there are white men at Bagamoyo, who are about starting
+into the country to look after me (?).  Who would look after me,
+I cannot imagine.  I think they must have some confused idea of
+my Expedition; though, how they came to know that I was looking
+for any man I cannot conceive, because I never told a soul until
+I reached Unyanyembe.
+
+May 2nd. Rosako.--I had barely arrived at the village before the
+three men I despatched from Mvumi, Ugogo, entered, bringing with
+them from the generous American Consul a few bottles of champagne,
+a few pots of jam, and two boxes of Boston crackers.  These were
+most welcome after my terrible experiences in the Makata Valley.
+Inside one of these boxes, carefully put up by the Consul,
+were four numbers of the 'Herald'; one of which contained my
+correspondence from Unyanyembe, wherein were some curious
+typographical errors, especially in figures and African names.
+I suppose my writing was wretched, owing to my weakness.  In
+another are several extracts from various newspapers, in which
+I learn that many editors regard the Expedition into Africa as
+a myth.  Alas! it has been a terrible, earnest fact with me;
+nothing but hard, conscientious work, privation, sickness,
+and almost death.  Eighteen men have paid the forfeit of their
+lives in the undertaking.  It certainly is not a myth--the death
+of my two white assistants; they, poor fellows, found their fate
+in the inhospitable regions of the interior.
+
+One of my letters received from Zanzibar by my messengers states
+that there is an expedition at Bagamoyo called the "Livingstone
+Search and Relief Expedition."  What will the leaders of it do now?
+Livingstone is found and relieved already.  Livingstone says he
+requires nothing more.  It is a misfortune that they did not start
+earlier; then they might with propriety proceed, and be welcomed.
+
+May 4th.---Arrived at Kingwere's Ferry, but we were unable to
+attract the attention of the canoe paddler.  Between our camp and
+Bagamoyo we have an inundated plain that is at least four miles
+broad.  The ferrying of our Expedition across this broad watery
+waste will occupy considerable time.
+
+May 5th.--Kingwere, the canoe proprietor, came about 11 A.M.
+from his village at Gongoni, beyond the watery plain.  By his
+movements I am fain to believe him to be a descendant of some
+dusky King Log, for I have never seen in all this land the
+attributes and peculiarities of that royal personage so
+faithfully illustrated as in Kingwere.  He brought two canoes
+with him, short, cranky things, in which only twelve of us
+could embark at a time.  It was 3 o'clock in the afternoon
+before we arrived at Gongoni village.
+
+May 6th.--After impressing Kingwere with the urgent necessity of
+quick action on his part, with a promise of an extra five-dollar
+gold piece, I had the satisfaction to behold the last man reach
+my camp at 3.30 p.m.
+
+An hour later, and we are en route, at a pace that I never saw
+equalled at any time by my caravan.  Every man's feelings are
+intensified, for there is an animated, nay, headlong, impetuosity
+about their movements that indicates but too well what is going on
+in their minds.  Surely, my own are a faithful index to their
+feelings; and I do not feel a whit too proud to acknowledge the
+great joy that possesses me.  I feel proud to think that I have
+been successful; but, honestly, I do not feel so elated at that
+as at the hope that to-morrow I shall sit before a table bounteous
+with the good things of this life.  How I will glory in the hams,
+and potatoes, and good bread!  What a deplorable state of mind,
+is it not?  Ah, my friend, wait till you are reduced to a
+skeleton by gaunt famine and coarse, loathsome food--until you
+have waded a Makata swamp, and marched 525 miles in thirty-five
+days through such weather as we have had--then you will think
+such pabula, food fit for gods!
+
+Happy are we that,--after completing our mission, after the hurry
+and worry of the march, after the anxiety and vexation suffered
+from fractious tribes, after tramping for the last fifteen days
+through mire and Stygian marsh,--we near Beulah's peace and rest!
+Can we do otherwise than express our happiness by firing away
+gunpowder until our horns are emptied--than shout our "hurrahs"
+until we are hoarse--than, with the hearty, soul-inspiring
+"Yambos," greet every mother's son fresh from the sea?  Not so,
+think the Wangwana soldiers; and I so sympathize with them that
+I permit them to act their maddest without censure.
+
+At sunset we enter the town of Bagamoyo.  "More pilgrims come to
+town," were the words heard in Beulah.  "The white man has come to
+town," were the words we heard in Bagamoyo.  And we shall cross the
+water tomorrow to Zanzibar, and shall enter the golden gate; we
+shall see nothing, smell nothing, taste nothing that is offensive
+to the stomach any more!
+
+The kirangozi blows his horn, and gives forth blasts potential as
+Astolpho's, as the natives and Arabs throng around us.  And that
+bright flag, whose stars have waved over the waters of the great
+lake in Central Africa, which promised relief to the harassed
+Livingstone when in distress at Ujiji, returns to the sea once
+again--torn, it is true, but not dishonoured--tattered, but not
+disgraced.
+
+As we reached the middle of the town, I saw on the steps of a
+large white house a white man, in flannels and helmet similar
+to that I wore.  I thought myself rather akin to white men in
+general, and I walked up to him.  He advanced towards me, and
+we shook hands--did everything but embrace.
+
+"Won't you walk in?" said he.
+
+"Thanks."
+
+"What will you have to drink--beer, stout, brandy?  Eh, by George!
+I congratulate you on your splendid success," said he, impetuously.
+
+I knew him immediately.  He was an Englishman.  He was Lieut.
+William Henn, R.N., chief of the Livingstone Search and Relief
+Expedition, about to be despatched by the Royal Geographical
+Society to find and relieve Livingstone.  The former chief,
+as the Expedition was at first organized, was Lieut. Llewellyn
+S. Dawson, who, as soon as he heard from my men that I had found
+Livingstone, had crossed over to Zanzibar, and, after consultation
+with Dr. John Kirk, had resigned.  He had now nothing further to
+do with it, the command having formally devolved on Lieut. Henn.
+A Mr. Charles New, also, missionary from Mombasah, had joined
+the expedition, but he had resigned too.  So now there were left
+but Lieut. Henn and Mr. Oswell Livingstone, second son of the
+Doctor.
+
+"Is Mr. Oswell Livingstone here?" I asked, with considerable
+surprise.
+
+"Yes; he will be here directly."
+
+"What are you going to do now?" I asked.
+
+"I don't think it worth my while to go now.  You have taken
+the wind out of our sails completely.  If you have relieved
+him, I don't see the use of my going.  Do you?"
+
+"Well, it depends.  You know your own orders best.  If you have
+come only to find and relieve him, I can tell you truly he is
+found and relieved, and that he wants nothing more than a few
+canned meats, and some other little things which I dare say you
+have not got.  I have his list in his own handwriting with me.
+But his son must go anyhow, and I can get men easily enough for
+him."
+
+"Well, if he is relieved, it is of no use my going."
+
+
+At this time in walked a slight, young, gentlemanly man, with
+light complexion, light hair, dark, lustrous eyes, who was
+introduced to me as Mr. Oswell Livingstone.  The introduction was
+hardly necessary, for in his features there was much of what were
+the specialities of his father.  There was an air of quiet
+resolution about him, and in the greeting which he gave me he
+exhibited rather a reticent character; but I attributed that to
+a receptive nature, which augured well for the future.
+
+"I was telling Lieut. Henn that, whether he goes or not, you must
+go to your father, Mr. Livingstone."
+
+"Oh, I mean to go."
+
+"Yes, that's right.  I will furnish you with men and what stores
+your father needs.  My men will take you to Unyanyembe without
+any difficulty.  They know the road well, and that is a great
+advantage.  They know how to deal with the negro chiefs, and you
+will have no need to trouble your head about them, but march.
+The great thing that is required is speed.  Your father will be
+waiting for the things."
+
+"I will march them fast enough, if that is all."
+
+"Oh, they will be going up light, and they can easily make long
+marches."
+
+It was settled, then.  Henn made up his mind that, as the Doctor
+had been relieved, he was not wanted; but, before formally
+resigning, he intended to consult with Dr. Kirk, and for that
+purpose he would cross over to Zanzibar the next day with the
+`Herald' Expedition.
+
+At 2 A.M. I retired to sleep on a comfortable bed.  There was a
+great smell of newness about certain articles in the bedroom, such
+as haversacks, knapsacks, portmanteaus, leather gun-cases, &c.
+Evidently the new Expedition had some crudities about it; but a
+journey into the interior would soon have lessened the stock of
+superfluities, which all new men at first load themselves with.
+
+Ah! what a sigh of relief was that I gave, as I threw myself
+on my bed, at the thought that, "Thank God! my marching was
+ended."
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVI.  VALEDICTORY.
+
+At 5 P.M., on the 7th of May, 1872, the dhow which conveyed my
+Expedition back to Zanzibar arrived in the harbor, and the men,
+delighted to find themselves once more so near their homes, fired
+volley after volley, the American flag was hoisted up, and we soon
+saw the house-roofs and wharves lined with spectators, many of whom
+were Europeans, with glasses levelled at us.
+
+We drew ashore slowly; but a boat putting off to take us to land,
+we stepped into it, and I was soon in presence of my friend
+the Consul, who heartily welcomed me back to Zanzibar; and soon
+after was introduced to the Rev. Charles New, who was but a day
+or two previous to my arrival an important member of the English
+Search Expedition--a small, slight man in appearance, who, though
+he looked weakly, had a fund of energy or nervousness in him which
+was almost too great for such a body.  He also heartily congratulated
+me.
+
+After a bounteous dinner, to which I did justice in a manner that
+astonished my new friends, Lieut. Dawson called to see me, and
+said:
+
+"Mr. Stanley, let me congratulate you, sir."
+
+Lieut. Dawson then went on to state how he envied me my success;
+how I had "taken the wind out of his sails" (a nautical phrase
+similar to that used by Lieut. Henn); how, when he heard from my
+men that Dr. Livingstone had been found, he at once crossed over
+from Bagamoyo to Zanzibar, and, after a short talk with Dr. Kirk,
+at once resigned.
+
+"But do you not think, Mr. Dawson, you have been rather too hasty
+in tendering your resignation, from the more verbal report of my
+men?"
+
+"Perhaps," said he; "but I heard that Mr. Webb had received a
+letter from you, and that you and Livingstone had discovered that
+the Rusizi ran into the lake--that you had the Doctor's letters
+and despatches with you."
+
+"Yes; but you acquired all this information from my men; you
+have seen nothing yourself.  You have therefore resigned before
+you had personal evidence of the fact."
+
+"Well, Dr. Livingstone is relieved and found, as Mr. Henn tells
+me, is he not?"
+
+"Yes, that is true enough.  He is well supplied; he only requires
+a few little luxuries, which I am going to send him by an
+expedition of fifty freemen.  Dr. Livingstone is found and
+relieved, most certainly; and I have all the letters and
+despatches which he could possibly send to his friends."
+
+"But don't you think I did perfectly right?"
+
+"Hardly--though, perhaps, it would come to the same thing in
+the end.  Any more cloth and beads than he has already would
+be an incumbrance.  Still, you have your orders from the Royal
+Geographical Society.  I have not seen those yet, and I am not
+prepared to judge what your best course would have been.  But
+I think you did wrong in resigning before you saw me; for then
+you would have had, probably, a legitimate excuse for resigning.
+I should have held on to the Expedition until I had consulted
+with those who sent me; though, in such an event as this, the
+order would be, perhaps, to `Come home.'"
+
+"As it has turned out, though, don't you think I did right?"
+
+"Most certainly it would be useless for you to go to search for
+and relieve Livingstone now, because he has already been sought,
+found, and relieved; but perhaps you had other orders."
+
+"Only, if I went into the country, I was then to direct my
+attention to exploration; but the primary object having been
+forestalled by you, I am compelled to return home.  The Admiralty
+granted me leave of absence only for the search, and never said
+anything about exploration."
+
+That evening I despatched a boy over to the English Consulate
+with letters from the great traveller for Dr. Kirk and Mr. Oswell
+Livingstone.
+
+I was greeted warmly by the American and German residents,
+who could not have shown warmer feeling than if Dr. Livingstone had
+been a near and dear relation of their own.  Capt. H. A. Fraser
+and Dr. James Christie were also loud in their praises.  It seems
+that both of these gentlemen had attempted to despatch a private
+expedition to the relief of their countryman, but through some
+means it had failed.  They had contributed the sum of $500 to
+effect this laudable object; but the man to whom they had
+entrusted its command had been engaged by another for a different
+purpose, at a higher sum.  But, instead of feeling annoyed that
+I had performed what they had intended to do, they were among my
+most enthusiastic admirers.
+
+The next day I received a call from Dr. Kirk, who warmly
+congratulated me upon my success.  Bishop Tozer also came,
+and thanked me for tie service I had rendered to Dr. Livingstone.
+
+On this day I also discharged my men, and re-engaged twenty of
+them to return to the "Great Master."  Bombay, though in the
+interior he had scorned the idea of money rewards, and though he
+had systematically, in my greatest need, endeavoured to baffle me
+in every way, received, besides his pay, a present of $50, and
+each man, according to his merits, from $20 to $50.  For this was
+a day to bury all animosities, and condone all offences.  They,
+poor people, had only acted according to their nature, and I
+remembered that from Ujiji to the coast they had all behaved
+admirably.
+
+I saw I was terribly emaciated and changed when I presented myself
+before a full-length mirror.  All confirmed my opinion that I was
+much older in my appearance, and that my hair had become grey.
+Capt. Fraser had said, when I hailed him, "You have the advantage
+of me, sir!" and until I mentioned my name he did not know me.
+Even then he jocosely remarked that he believed that it was
+another Tichborne affair.  I was so different that identity was
+almost lost, even during the short period of thirteen
+months; that is, from March 23rd, 1871, to May  7th, 1872.
+
+Lieut. Henn the morning after my arrival formally resigned, and
+the Expedition was from this time in the hands of Mr. Oswell
+Livingstone, who made up his mind to sell the stores, retaining
+such as would be useful to his father.
+
+After disbanding my Expedition, I set about preparing another,
+according to Dr. Livingstone's request.  What the English
+Expedition lacked I purchased out of the money advanced by Mr.
+Oswell Livingstone.  The guns, fifty in number, were also
+furnished out of the stores of the English Expedition by him;
+and so were the ammunition, the honga cloth, for the tribute
+to the Wagogo, and the cloth for provisioning the force.
+Mr. Livingstone worked hard in the interests of his father
+and assisted me to the utmost of his ability.  He delivered
+over to me, to be packed up, `Nautical Almanacs' for 1872, 1873,
+1874; also a chronometer, which formerly belonged to Dr.
+Livingstone.  All these things, besides a journal, envelopes,
+note-books, writing-paper, medicines, canned fruits and fish,
+a little wine, some tea, cutlery and table ware, newspapers,
+and private letters and despatches, were packed up in air-tight
+tin boxes, as well as 100 lbs. of fine American flour, and some
+boxes of soda biscuits.
+
+Until the 19th of May it was understood that Mr. Oswell
+Livingstone would take charge of the caravan to his father;
+but about this date he changed his mind, and surprised me with
+a note stating he had decided not to go to Unyanyembe, for
+reasons he thought just and sufficient.
+
+Under these circumstances, my duty was to follow out the
+instructions of Dr. Livingstone, in procuring a good and
+efficient leader to take charge of the caravan as far as
+Unyanyembe.
+
+In a few hours I succeeded in obtaining an Arab highly recommended
+from Sheikh Hashid, whom I engaged at an advance of $100.  The
+young Arab, though not remarkably bright, seemed honest and able,
+but I left his further employment after reaching Unyanyembe to Dr.
+Livingstone, who would be able to decide then whether he was quite
+trustworthy.
+
+The next day I collected the men of the new Livingstone Expedition
+together, and as it was dangerous to allow them to wander about the
+city, I locked them up in a courtyard, and fed them there, until
+every soul, fifty seven in number, answered to their names.
+
+In the meantime, through the American Consul's assistance, I
+obtained the services of Johari, the chief dragoman of the
+American Consulate, who was charged with the conduct of the party
+across the inundated plain of the Kingani, and who was enjoined on
+no account to return until the Expedition had started on its march
+from the western bank of the Kingani River.  Mr. Oswell Livingstone
+generously paid him a douceur for the promise of doing
+his work thoroughly.
+
+A dhow having been brought to anchor before the American Consulate,
+I then addressed my old companions, saying, "You are now about to
+return to Unyanyembe, to the `Great Master'.  You know him; you
+know he is a good man, and has a kind heart.  He is different from
+me; he will not beat you, as I have done.  But you know I have
+rewarded you all--how I have made you all rich in cloth and money.
+You know how, when you behaved yourselves well, I was your friend.
+I gave you plenty to eat and plenty to wear.  When you were sick
+I looked after you.  If I was so good to you, the `Great Master'
+will be much more so.  He has a pleasant voice, and speaks kind.
+When did you ever see him lift his hand against an offender?
+When you were wicked, he did not speak to you in anger--he spoke
+to you in tones of sorrow.  Now, will you promise me that you
+will follow him--do what he tells you, obey him in all things,
+and not desert him?"
+
+"We will, we will, my master!" they all cried, fervently.
+
+"Then there is one thing more.  I want to shake hands with you
+all before you go--and we part for ever;" and they all rushed
+up at once, and a vigorous shake was interchanged with each man.
+
+"Now, let every man take up his load!"
+
+In a short time I marched them out into the street, and to the
+beach; saw them all on board, and the canvas hoisted, and the
+dhow speeding westward on her way to Bagamoyo.
+
+I felt strange and lonely, somehow.  My dark friends, who had
+travelled over so many hundreds of miles, and shared so many
+dangers with me, were gone, and I--was left behind.  How many
+of their friendly faces shall I see again?
+
+On the 29th, the steamer `Africa,' belonging to the German
+Consulate, was chartered by a party of five of us, and we
+departed from Zanzibar to Seychelles, with the good wishes
+of almost all the European residents on the island.
+
+We arrived at Seychelles on the 9th of June, about twelve hours
+after the French mail had departed for Aden.  As there is only
+monthly communication between Mahe (Seychelles) and Aden, we
+were compelled to remain on the island of Mahe one month.
+
+My life in Mahe is among the most agreeable things connected with
+my return from Africa.  I found my companions estimable gentlemen,
+and true Christians.  Mr. Livingstone exhibited many amiable traits
+of character, and proved himself to be a studious, thoughtful,
+earnest man.  When at last the French steamer came from Mauritius,
+there was not one of our party who did not regret leaving the
+beautiful island, and the hospitable British officers who were
+stationed there.  The Civil Commissioner, Mr. Hales Franklyn,
+and Dr. Brooks, did their utmost to welcome the wanderer, and
+I take this opportunity to acknowledge the many civilities
+I personally received from them.
+
+At Aden, the passengers from the south were transferred on board
+the French mail steamer, the `Mei-kong,' en route from China to
+Marseilles.  At the latter port I was received with open arms by
+Dr. Hosmer and the representative of the `Daily Telegraph,' and
+was then told how men regarded the results of the Expedition;
+but it was not until I arrived in England that I realised it.
+
+Mr. Bennett, who originated and sustained the enterprise, now
+crowned it by one of the most generous acts that could be
+conceived.  I had promised Dr. Livingstone, that twenty-four hours
+after I saw his letters to Mr. Bennett published in the London
+journals, I would post his letters to his family and friends in
+England.  In order to permit me to keep my plighted word, and in
+order that there might be no delay in the delivery of his family
+letters, Mr. Bennett's agent telegraphed to New York the 'Herald'
+letters I had received from Dr. Livingstone at an expense of
+nearly £2,000.
+
+And now, dear reader, the time has come for you and I to part.
+Let us hope that it is not final.  A traveller finds himself
+compelled to repeat the regretful parting word often.  During
+the career recorded in the foregoing book, I have bidden many
+farewells; to the Wagogo, with their fierce effrontery; to Mionvu,
+whose blackmailing once so affected me; to the Wavinza, whose noisy
+clatter promised to provoke dire hostilities; to the inhospitable
+Warundi; to the Arab slave-traders and half-castes; to all
+fevers, remittent, and intermittent; to the sloughs and swamps
+of Makata; to the brackish waters and howling wastes; to my own
+dusky friends and followers, and to the hero-traveller and
+Christian gentleman, David Livingstone.  It is with kindliest
+wishes to all who have followed my footsteps on these pages that
+I repeat once more--Farewell.
+
+
+
+CONCLUDING CHAPTER.
+
+
+The following correspondence, and especially the last letter,
+which was accompanied by a beautiful and valuable gold snuff-box
+set with brilliants, will be treasured by me as among the
+pleasantest results of my undertaking.
+
+H. M. S.
+
+Foreign Office, August 1.
+
+Sir,
+I am directed by Earl Granville to acknowledge the receipt of a
+packet containing letters and despatches from Dr. Livingstone,
+which you were good enough to deliver to her Majesty's ambassador
+at Paris for transmission to this department; and I am to convey
+to you his Lordship's thanks for taking charge of these interesting
+documents.
+
+I am, Sir,
+
+Your most obedient humble servant,
+ENFIELD.
+
+Henry M. Stanley, Esq.,
+`New York Herald Bureau,'
+46, Fleet Street, London,
+
+------ooo----
+
+
+
+London, August 2.
+
+Henry M. Stanley, Esq., has handed to me to-day the diary of Dr.
+Livingstone, my father, sealed and signed by my father, with
+instructions written on the outside, signed by my father, for the
+care of which, and for all his actions concerning and to my
+father, our very best thanks are due.  We have not the slightest
+reason to doubt that this is my father's journal, and I certify
+that the letters he has brought home are my father's letters,
+and no others.
+
+Tom S. Livingstone
+
+------------oooo-------
+
+August 2, 1872.
+
+Sir,
+I was not aware until you mentioned it that there was any doubt as
+to the authenticity of Dr. Livingstone's despatches, which you
+delivered to Lord Lyons on the 31st of July.  But, in consequence
+of what you said I have inquired into the matter, and I find that
+Mr. Hammond, the Under-Secretary of the Foreign Office, and Mr.
+Wylde, the head of the Consular and Slave Trade Department, have
+not the slightest doubt as to the genuineness of the papers which
+have been received from Lord Lyons, and which are being printed.
+
+I cannot omit this opportunity, of expressing to you my admiration
+of the qualities which have enabled you to achieve the object of
+your mission, and to attain a result which has been hailed with so
+much enthusiasm both in the United States and in this country.
+
+I am, Sir,
+
+Your obedient,
+
+GRANVILLE.
+
+Henry Stanley, Esq.
+
+
+-------------oooo-------
+
+Foreign Office, August 27.
+
+SIR,
+
+I have great satisfaction in conveying to you, by command of the
+Queen, her Majesty's high appreciation of the prudence and zeal
+which you have displayed in opening a communication with Dr.
+Livingstone, and relieving her Majesty from the anxiety which,
+in common with her subjects, she had felt in regard to the fate
+of that distinguished traveller.
+
+The Queen desires me to express her thanks for the service you have
+thus rendered, together with her Majesty's congratulations on your
+having so successfully carried on the mission which you fearlessly
+undertook.  Her Majesty also desires me to request your acceptance
+of the memorial which accompanies this letter.
+
+I am, Sir,
+
+Your most obedient humble servant,
+
+GRANVILLE
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+GLOSSARY.
+
+Boma .  .  .  .  .  .  .   enclosure.
+
+Bubu .  .  .  .  .  .  .   black beads.
+
+Diwan   .  .  .  .  .  .   elder, chief, or magistrate.
+
+Doti    .  .  .  .  .  .   four yards of cloth.
+
+Dowa    .  .  .  .  .  .   medicine.
+
+Fundo  .  .  .  .  .  .    ten necklaces, or ten khetes.
+
+Ghulabio  .  .  .  .  .    a species of bead.
+
+Hafde     .  .  .  .  .    a species of bead.
+
+Hamal     .  .  .  .  .    carrier.
+
+Honga     .  .  .  .  .    tribute.
+
+Ismahili  .  .  .  .  .    a native name for a particular kind of cloth.
+
+Kadunguru .  .  .  .  .    a brick-coloured species of bead.
+
+Kaif-Halek   .  .  .  .    "How do you do?"
+
+Kaniki       .  .  .  .    a blue cloth manufactured in India.
+
+Knambi       .  .  .  .    camp.
+
+Khete       .  .   .  .    one necklace, or a tenth of a fundo.
+
+Kichuma-chuma  .   .  .    "Little Irons," a disease of the liver.
+
+Kirangozi   .  .  .  .      guide.
+
+Kitambi     .  .  .  .      a cloth.
+
+Kiti    .   .  .  .  .      stool.
+
+Lakhio   .  .  .  .  .      a pink-coloured species of bead.
+
+Lunghio  .  .  .  .  .      blue beads.
+
+Lunghio mbamba .  .  .      small blue beads.
+
+Lunghio rega   .  .  .      large blue beads.
+
+M        .  .  .  .  .      a prefix to denote a person of any
+                            country as M-jiji, a native of Jiji.
+
+Manyapara   .  .  .  .      elder, or sub-chief.
+
+Matama   .  .  .  .  .      Holcus sorghum, or the Arabic dourra.
+
+Mbembu   .  .  .  .  .      forest peach
+
+Merikani .  .  .  .  .      unbleached domestics manufactured in
+                            America.
+
+Mganga   .  .  .  .  .      a medicine man, or magic doctor,
+
+Miezi-Mungu .  .  .  .      a Kisawahili term for "God."
+
+Mtemi       .  .  .  .      a term synonymous with king
+
+Mtoni    .  .  .  .  .      nullah.
+
+Muhongo  .  .  .  .  .      tribute.
+
+Mulungu  .  .  .  .  .      a native term for "God."
+
+Mukunguru   .  .  .  .      intermittent fever.
+
+Mvuha    .  .  .  .  .      thunder.
+
+Ngombe   .  .  .  .  .      a cow.
+
+Pagazi   .  .  .  .  .      a porter, or carrier.
+
+Posho    .  .  .  .  .      food.
+
+Sami-Sami   .  .  .  .      the name of red beads
+
+Shamba   .  .  .  .  .      a field.
+
+Shasr    .  .  .  .  .      a muslin cloth.
+
+Sheikh   .  .  .  .  .      a title of courtesy given to an elderly
+                            man.
+
+Shukka   .  .  .  .  .      two yards of cloth.
+
+Sohari   .  .  .  .  .      a kind of coloured cloth.
+
+Sungomazzi  .  .  .  .      large glass or china beads of the size
+                            of marbles.
+
+Toujiri  .  .  .  .  .      the name for a particular kind of cloth.
+
+U        .  .  .  .  .      a prefix to denote the country: thus
+                            U-jiji signifies the country of Jiji.
+
+Uganga   .  .  .  .  .      medicine.
+
+Wa-      .  .  .  .  .     a prefix to denote persons: thus Wa-jiji
+                            would signify people of Jiji.
+
+Washeni  .  .  .  .  .     a term of contempt applied to the natives.
+
+Yambo    .  .  .  .  .     "How are you?"
+
+Ziwa     .  .  .  .  .     a pool, or lake,
+
+Ziwari   .  .  .  .  .     a pond.
+
+
+
+
+APPENDIX.
+
+List of Camps from Bagamoyo to Ujiji and back to the Sea.
+
+
+THROUGH UKWERE, UKAMI, AND UDOE TO USEGUHHA.
+
+From Bagamoyo to--     h.  m.
+Shamba Gonera .  .  .  1  30
+Kikoka .  .  .   .  .   3  40
+Rosako .  .  .  .   .  5   0
+Kingaru   .  .  .   .  6   0
+Imbiki .  .  .  .   .  4  30
+Msuwa  .  .  .  .   .  4  30
+
+From Msuwa to--        h.  m.
+Kisemo  .  .  .  .  .  4  30
+Mussoudi   .  .  .  .  4  20
+Mikeseh    .  .  .  .  7   0
+Muhalleh  .  .  .   .  6  45
+Simbamwenni  .  .   .  3   0
+
+TO UGOGO.
+
+USEGUHA,
+Ungerengeri River to-- h.  m
+Simbo   .  .  .  .  .  2   0
+Camp in plain .  .  .  4  10
+Makata River  .  .  .  2  30
+
+USAGARA.
+Camp west of Makata.   0   5
+Camp in plain .  .  .  4  30
+Camp  "   "   .  .  .  2   0
+Rehenneko  .  .  .  .  3  15
+Rehenneko to--         h.  m.
+Camp on mountain .  .  3  30
+Kiora   .  .  .  .  .  3  40
+Camp on river .  .  .  4  50
+Madete  .  .  .  .  .  2  30
+Lake Ugombo.  .  .  .  3   0
+Matamombo .  .  .   .  6   0
+Mpwapwa . .  .  .   .  7   0
+Kisokweh  .  .  .   .  2   0
+Chunyo .  .  .  .   .  1  30
+
+
+FROM UGOGO TO UNYANYEMBE,
+
+From Marenga Mkali to--h.  m.
+Mvumi, Little Ugogo   12  30
+Mvumi, Great Ugogo     4   0
+Matamburu  "   "   .   4   0
+Bihawana   "   "   .   4   0
+Kididimo   "   "   .   2   0
+Pembera Pereh  "   .  10   0
+Mizanza    "   "   .   5  30
+Mukondoku  "   "   .   6  30
+Munieka    "   "   .   5   0
+Mabunguru Mtoni  .
+       Uyanzi          8   0
+Kiti, Uyanzi .  .  .   6  30
+Msalalo   .  .  .  .   6  30
+
+From Msalalo to--      h.  m.
+Welled Ngaraiso .  .   3  30
+Kusuri .  .  .  .  .   3  15
+Mgongo Tembo .  .  .   3  30
+  "      "   Mtoni .   3  30
+Nghwhalah Mtoni .  .   2  40
+Madedita     .  .  .   2  30
+Central Tura, Unyam-
+   wezi   .  .  .  .   3   0
+Kwala River  .  .  .   7   0
+Rubuga    .  .  .  .   7  15
+Kigwa     .  .  .  .   5   0
+Shiza     .  .  .  .   7   0
+Kwihara   .  .  .  .   3   0
+
+
+UNYANYEMBE TO MRERA, UKONONG0.
+
+
+UNYAMWEZI.
+From Kwihara to--      h.  m.
+Mkwenkwe    .  .  .    1  30
+Inesuka     .  .  .    2   0
+Kasegera    .  .  .    3   0
+Kigandu     .  .  .    2  45
+Ugunda      .  .  .    7   0
+Benta       .  .  .    3  15
+Kikuru      .  .  .    5   0
+Ziwani      .  .  .    4   0
+Manyara     .  .  .    6  30
+
+UKONONG0.
+From Manyara to--      h.  m
+Gombe River .  .  .    4  15
+Ziwani   .  .  .  .    5  20
+Tongoni  .  .  .  .    1  30
+Camp     .  .  .  .    5  15
+Marefu   .  .  .  .    3   0
+Utende   .  .  .  .    7  15
+Mtoni    .  .  .  .    4   0
+Mwaru    .  .  .  .    5  15
+Mrera .  .  .  .  .    5  13
+
+
+FROM MRERA, UKONONGO TO UJIJI.
+
+
+
+UKONONGO,              h.  m.
+
+From Mrera to Mtoni .  4  30
+Misonghi   .  .  .  .  4  30
+Mtoni   .  .  .  .  .  6   0
+Mpokwa in Utanda .  .  4  45
+Mtoni      .  .  .  .  3   0
+
+UKAWENDI.              h.  m
+
+Mtambu River .  .  .   4  30
+Imrera    .  .  .  .   4  20
+Rusawa Mts.  .  .  .   2  30
+Mtoni     .  .  .  .   4   0
+Mtoni     .  .  .  .   5   0
+Camp in Forest .  .  . 6   0
+Camp in Forest .  .  . 5  30
+
+UVINZA
+Welled Nzogera .  .  . 2  30
+Camp in Forest .  .  . 4  15
+Siala [Kiala?] on the
+   Malagarazi  .  .  . 2  45
+Ihata Island in the
+   Malagarazi  .  .  . 1  30
+Katalambula    .  .  . 1  45
+
+UHHA
+Kawanga in Uhha .  .   5  30
+Lukomo    .  .  .  .   1   0
+Kahirigi  .  .  .  .   4   0
+Rusugi River .  .  .   5   0
+Lake Musunya .  .  .   4   0
+Rugufu River .  .  .   4  30
+Sunuzzi  "   .  .  .   3   0
+Niamtaga Ukaranga  .   9  30
+
+UJIJI.
+Port of Ujiji   .  .   6   0
+
+
+
+
+
+INDEX
+
+Abdul Kader, tailor of the Expedition; retirement of,
+Abdullah bin Nasib,
+Acacia Horrida,
+African bridges,
+Ali bin Salim,
+Ambari,
+Amer bin Sultan, type of an old Arab Sheikh,
+Amram bin Mussood,
+Ant-hills, remarkable,
+Ants, white, destructiveness of,
+Arabs, antipathy to, as slave-traders, in Africa,
+Aranselar, chief butler of the Expedition,
+Asmani, giant statue of;
+    his murderous deportment,
+
+Baba (Father), term of courtesy in addressing elderly persons,
+Bagamoyo, French Mission Station at; life at; climate of,
+Bambarre, ivory depot,
+Bana Mikuba, the "Big Master,'
+Bangwe Island,
+Bangweolo Lake,
+Banyans, keen trading of;
+  their influence on African trade,
+Baobab, fruit of the,
+Baruti, one of Speke's Faithfuls,
+   death of,
+Beads as currency in the Interior,
+Bees, attack of, on the caravan,
+Bemba, wooded hills of,
+Bennet, Mr. James Gordon;
+   generous act of, in respect
+   to Dr. Livingstone's letters,
+Benta forest,
+Bihawana,
+Bikari, cluster of villages,
+"Bombay," or Mombay,
+Bomboma's village,
+Borassus flabelliformis, or Palmyra palm,
+Brooks, Dr.,
+Buffalo gnats,
+----herd,
+Bunder Salaam, cook of the Expedition,
+Burial ceremonies,
+Burton, Capt., experience of Bunyans,
+Bustard,
+
+Cazembe, King; his Queen and her Amazons,
+Chamati Hill,
+Chambezi, drainage of,
+Chambezi, Livingstone's difficulty about the,
+"Charley's" lodging-house at Zanzibar, kindly spirit of its
+landlord,
+Chowpereh, Mgwana soldier, ,
+Christie, Dr., physician to Seyd Burghash
+Chufwa fly,
+Chuma, Dr. Livingstone's servant,
+Cloth as currency in the interior,
+Comorines,
+Corn-grinding women of Kisemo,
+Crocodile, narrow escape of author from,
+
+`Daily Telegraph,' representative of, at Aden,
+Dawson, Lieut., visit from, conversation as to his resigning
+command of the Search Expedition
+Dhows,
+Dilima Peaks,
+Dogara, or whitebait,
+Donkeys, equipment of; fine breed of, in Ubanarama,
+"Dowa," medicine,
+
+Earwigs, plague of, at Mpwapwa,
+Elephantiasis common in Zanzibar,
+Elephants, herd of; difficulty of shooting,
+Emancipation Proclamation of Ahraham Lincoln,
+Esau, Jemadar,
+
+Farquhar, W. L.;
+   his death; account of,
+Faulkner, Mr., incredible statements of,
+Ferajji,
+Fire-arms, what most suitable to the traveller
+Fish-eagle,
+Forest peach,
+Forest scenery of Unyarnwezi,
+Foreign Office, letters from,
+Franklyn, Mr. Hales,
+Fraser, Capt.,
+Freiligrath's description of the lion's habitat,
+French Mlissionaries, practical character of; Mission Station
+   at Bagamoyo,
+
+Giraffes, difficulty of killing,
+Glossina mortisans, or tsetse fly
+Goma Pass;
+Granville, Lord, letter from, conveying the thanks of Queen
+  Victoria and the announcement of the Royal present,
+Goodhue, Mr., or "Bana Mkuba,"
+
+Haematite,
+Half-castes, contemptible character
+Halimah, Dr. Livingstone's cook,
+Hassan, the Mseguhha,
+Henn Lieut, his meeting with the author; resigns the leadership
+Herembe, Cape,
+Herodotus, his account of the Nile sources,
+Hindis, Mohammedan, cheating character of,
+Hippopotami
+Honey-bird; habits of,
+Honga, or tribute ,
+Hosmer, Dr.,
+Hunters Paradise, the,
+Hyaenas,
+
+Ibrahim bin Rashid slain,
+Ihata Island,
+Imbiki,
+Itage village,
+
+Jako, employe of the Expedition,
+Jesuit Mission at Pagamoyo,
+Jiweh la Singa district,
+Johari, dragoman,
+Jumah,
+Jungle of Msuwa, its horrors,
+
+Kabogi, Cape,
+Kabogo Mountain, singular phenomenon of,
+Kadetamare, or Misonghi, village, .
+Kahirigi, boma of,
+Kaif-Halek or "How-do-ye-do," the letter carrier,
+Kalulu, the boy-slave,
+Kamolondo Lake,
+Kanengi River,
+Kaniyaga village
+Kanjee,
+Kanyamabengu River,
+Kanyenyi,
+Kayeh, a myth,
+Kasera ridge,
+Katanga, copper mines of,
+Katangara Islands,
+Kavimba,
+Khamis bin Abdullah; his death,
+Khamisi, desertion of; his narrow escape; flogged for
+        desertion; precis of character,
+Khonze, remarkable globes of foliage at
+Kiala, chief,
+Kigoma Bay,
+Kigonda, chief,
+Kigwena River,
+Kikoka village,
+Kikuma River,
+Kingari River,
+----    Valley,
+Kingaru village
+Kingwere, the canoe paddler
+Kiora village,; Peak
+Kirindo, chief,
+Kirurumo village,
+Kisabengo, chief, a minor Theodore,
+Kisemo village; belles of,
+Kisuka village,
+Kisunwe River,
+Kitanda or bedstead,
+Kitii defile,
+Kitunda Cape,
+Kiwyeh, Sultan of; village,
+Kiwrima Valley,
+Kolquall or candelabra tree,
+Kudu,
+Kukumba Point,
+Kulabi,
+Kusuri or Konsuli,
+Kwala Mtoni,
+Kwikuru,
+
+Lares and Penates of the Wazavira,
+Leukole's account of Farquhar's death,
+Liemba, Lake,
+Lincoln, Abraham, lake named after, by Livingstone,
+Lion and leopard, home of the; Freiligrath's description of,
+Liuche, valley of the,
+Livingstone, Dr., the author's first interview with, at Ujiji;
+     his anxiety for news; the low ebb of his resources;
+     his early rising; took the author for an emissary of the
+     French Government; his hard fare; his suffering and privations;
+     revival of his enthusiasm; his guileless character;
+     his physical appearance, ; absurd report of his marriage,
+     his general character and careful observations; sensitiveness
+     of criticism; amiable traits of his character, and his Spartan
+     heroism; his high spirits, inexhaustible humour, and retentive
+     memory; sincerity of his religion; ability to withstand the
+     African climate, due to his temperate life; his determination
+     to complete his task, spite of all difficulties, completeness
+     of his discoveries; summary of his experiences; interview with
+     King Cazembe; difficulty as to the Chambezi; discovery of Lake
+     Liemba; investigation of the Luapula; intervention in behalf of
+     Mahomed bin Sali repaid by base ingratitude; exploration of Uguhha;
+     sufferings at Bambarre, discovery of the Lualaba, description of
+     the beauties of Moero scenery; admiration of Abraham Lincoln;
+     his belief that the Lualaba or Webb's River is the true Nile;
+     his admission that the Nile sources have not been found;
+     his opinion as to the account of Herodotus; thwarted by the
+     cowardice of his men; return to Ujiji; dishonesty of Sherif;
+     destitute condition of the Doctor, his complaint of the Zanzibar
+     people not sending him freemen; improvement of his health from
+     more generous diet, contemplated cruise on the Tanganika; start
+     from Ujiji; liability to dysentery; manner of dealing with demands
+     for honga; loss of stores, &c., from Bombay's intoxication
+     his unwillingness to retaliate on the hostile natives, his
+     tenderness in sickness, disturbed in bed by his servant Susi in
+     a state of intoxication; his opinion that the Tanganika must have
+     an outlet; names the Kavunvweh islands the "New York Herald
+     Islets,"; his coolness at the hostility of the Wasansi, calms
+     them down by his gentle bearing and conversation; his resolve
+     to finish his task, ; complaint of Dr. Kirk's sending only slaves;
+     resolves to accompany the author to Unyanyembe; his sufferings on
+     the road; at Mpokwa's village, ; his value as a travelling companion;
+     stung by wild bees; his qualifications as a traveller,
+     peaceful recollections of his wife's grave, his relation of
+     incidents of the life of his son Robert; arrival at Ugundo,
+     letters from Dr. Kirk and home; welcome to Unyanyembe; in
+     comfortable quarters and in possession of stores; wreck of the
+     stores detained by Sayd bin Salim; in possession of four years'
+     store of supplies; his letter to Mr. Bennett, jun.; probable
+     results of his perseverance in African discovery; his last day
+     with the author; his intentions as to the future; the parting
+     farewell,
+Livingstone, Mr. Oswell, introduction to; equipment of his proposed
+    expedition; determines to resign,
+Livingstone, Robert Moffatt, incidents of his life,
+Lizard, large,
+Loeki or Lomani River,
+Lualaba or "Webb's River" of Livingstone; thought by him to be the
+    true Nile,
+Luapula River,
+Lubilash River,
+Ludha Damji,
+Lufira River,
+Luhanga Peak,
+Lukomo village,
+Luvumba Cape,
+
+Mabruki, cruel treatment of;
+Mabunguru Nullah,
+Madedita,
+Magala, Mutware of,
+Maganga,
+Magunda Mkali,
+Mahommed bin Sali, his release by Livingstone and subsequent
+      ingratitude,
+Maizun, Mons.,
+Makata Valley; River; Plain,
+Makumbi, chief,
+Malagash, Inlet,
+Malagarazi River,
+Manyuema country, people of; the El Dorado of the Arabs; sought
+      as slaves,
+Maganga,
+Marefu,
+Marenga Mkali,
+Masangi,
+Masika, or rainy season,
+Matamombo,
+Mazitu, marauding propensities of,
+Mbawala, species of antelope,
+Mbembu, or forest peach,
+Mdaburu River,
+Medicine for daubing warriors,
+Mfuto, Eastern,
+Mgongo Tembo, or "Elephant's Back,"
+Mgwana,
+Mikiseh,
+Mionvu, Mutware of Kimenyi,
+Mirambo; defeated at Mfuto,
+Misonghi, deserted village,
+Mizanza,
+Mkuti River,
+Mkuyu, gigantic sycamore,
+Moero Lake; beauty of the scenery,
+Mohammed bin Abdulla slain,
+Mohammed bin Gharib,
+Monkeys, troop of,
+Morris, Hon. E. J.,
+Mpokwa River,
+Mponda, chief,
+Mpwapwh, its fruitfulness;
+      Mountains,
+Mrera, chief,
+---, warriors of,
+Msuwa,
+Mtemi, chief,
+Mud-fish,
+Mugere River,
+Mugeyo village,
+Mugihewa territory,
+Mukamba, chief,
+Mukondoku, chief,
+Mukondokwa Range; Pass; River,
+Mukungu,
+Mukunguru, African intermittent fever,
+Munieka,
+Muniyi Usagara,
+Murembwe Cape; Point,
+Musa, chief of the Johanna men,
+Muscat Arabs of Zanzibar,
+Mussoudi, the Diwan's account of an extraordinary flood,
+Musunya Lake,
+Muzimu Island,
+Mvumi village,
+Mwaru,
+Myombo tree,
+Mussoud bin Abdhullah,
+Mussoudi; beautiful prospect at,
+
+"Nazi-Moya" at Zanzibar,
+Negroes of Zanzibar; character of,
+New, Rev. Charles, introduction to,
+"New York Herald" Islets,
+Ngaraiso village,
+Nghwhalah River,
+Nguru Peak,
+Niamtaga,
+Niasanga village,
+Niongo,
+Nondo, Spoke's runaway,
+Nyabigma Island,
+Nyambwa,
+Nzoe, antelope of Speke,
+
+"Omar," Mr. Stanley's watchdog; death of,
+
+Pallah buck,
+Pembera Pereh, Sultan,
+Perpusilla, the,
+Piaggia, the Italian traveller,
+Pisolitic limestone,
+Pottery, native, of the Wazavira,
+Price, Simon, Dr. Livingstone's servant,
+
+Queen Victoria, letter conveying the thanks of Her Majesty and
+the announcement of the Royal present,
+
+Rehenneko village,
+Rosako village,
+Rua country; people,
+Rubeho Slopes; Peak,
+Rubuga,
+Rudewa River,
+Rugufu Lake,
+Ruhinga, chief,
+Rusizi River; problem of; delta of,
+
+Said bin Majid,
+Salim bin Rashid,
+Sultana of Simbamwenni,
+Sami-sami, red beads,
+Sayf, son of Ali, slain,
+Sayd bin Salim's house,
+Selim, interpreter,
+----, the Arab boy,
+Seyd Burghash, Sultan of Zanzibar,
+Sitting on pombe,
+Sentakeyi, Cape,
+Shaw, J. W.; leaves the expedition,
+Shamba Gonera, or, "Gonera's Field," good disposition of the
+        Indian widow towards the whites; appearance of the place,
+        trade, &c.,
+Sheikh Sayd bin Selim,
+-----  Hamed,
+-----  Hassid,
+-----  Khamis bin Abdullah,
+-----  bin Nasib,
+-----  Sulton bin Ali,
+-----  Thani,
+Sherif, Dr. Livingstone's servant; dishonesty of,
+Shiza,
+Sigunga,
+Simbamwenni; desolation of by flood,
+----------, Sultana of,
+Simba, ruler of Kasera,
+Simbo,
+Simbo, Khambi,
+Singwe, a plum-like fruit,
+Slave-gang, chained,
+Sofi beads,
+Somalis;
+Soor Hadji Palloo,
+Soud, the Arab,
+----, son of Sayd bin Majid,
+----, bin Sayd, his attack on Wilyankura; his death,
+Speke, Capt., his "Faithfuls"; treatment of "Bombay" by;
+       error of, as to altitude of Tanganika,
+Stanley, Mr., start from Bombay; landing at Zanzibar; hospitable
+      reception by Capt. Webb; impressions of the city;
+      organization of the Expedition; visit to the Sultan; departure
+      from Zanzibar; landing at Bagamoyo; troublesome experiences;
+      visit to the "Livingstone caravan"; preparations for departure
+      into the interior, difficulties with employes; chase after a
+      thief, despatch of four caravans; departure of the fifth caravan,
+      led by himself; members composing it and outfit; the start,
+      first camp; Shamba Gonera; crossing the Kingani; hippopotami
+      shooting; Kikoka village; halt at Rosako; "Omar" watchdog,
+      missing; formidable number of insects, the tsetse-fly; game
+      hunting; difficulty of penetrating an African jungle; camp at
+      Kingaru; the grey Arab horse, and offence given by its interment;
+      interview with the king of Kingaru; loss of the re maiming horse
+      from cancer; desertion and sickness; appearance of Maganga's
+      caravan march to Imbiki; reach Msuwa, perils of the jungle,
+      astonishment of the chief; chained slave-gang; halt at
+      Kisemo; belle of; narrow escape of Khamisi; flogged for
+      desertion; reach Mussoudi; beautiful prospect; cross the
+      Ungerengeri start for Mikeseh; Ulagalla and Muhalleh;
+      overtake Maganga's caravan; meet with Selim bin Rashid,
+      news of Livingstone; pass town of Simbamwenni; its
+      fortifications; curiosity of the inhabitants; two
+      days' halt and overhaul of the luggage, attack of ague;
+      visit of ambassadors of the Sultana of Simbamwenni;
+      wretched encampment on the Ungerengeri; difficulty of
+      crossing the river; Makata Valley; loss of Bombay's
+      equipage,; difficulties of the Makata Valley; escape
+      and capture of Kingaru; emerge from the swamp Makata,
+      attack of dysentery, halt at Reheneko; ascent of the
+      Usagara Mountains; Mukondokwa Valley and River; Kiora;
+      camp at, illness of Farquhar; ford of the Mukondokwa
+      River; Madete, Lake of Ugombe; departure from Ugombo;
+      camp at Matamombo, death of of the dog "Omar"; Sheikh
+      Thani in clover at Mpwapwa, a good breakfast and
+      dinner, Farquhar left to be nursed; twelve pagazis
+      engaged, abundance of earwigs and white ants; Chunyo,
+      badness of the water; Marenga Mkali waterless district;
+      attack of fever; Ugogo; frantic conduct of the population;
+      West Mvumi; the Sultan's exorbitant demand of honda;
+      Matamburu, reasonableness of the Sultan of; Bihiwana;
+      attack of intermittent fever; Kididimo, bleak aspect
+      and bad water; Nyambwa, demonstrativeness of the people;
+      Mizanza; benefit from quinine; visit from the Sultan;
+      Little Mukondoku; Mukondoku Proper; commotion and
+      cowardice; uproar in the camp; debate as to route;
+      threatened mutiny; Munieka; Mabunguru Nullah;
+      Unyambogi; Kiti, Msalalo; Ngaraiso, Kirurumo,
+      greeting from the villagers; interview with Sultan
+      bin Mahommed; halt at Kusuri, and Mgongo Tembo;
+      Nghwhalah Mtoni, abundance of sweet, water;
+      Madedita, tsete-fly troublesome; reach Unyamwezi
+      territory at Eastern Tura, cultivated region;
+      Nondo, Speke's runaway; Central Tura, attempted night
+      robbery, a thief shot dead; pass  Western Tura; Kwala
+      Mtoni, mud-fish; illness of the tailor, Abdul Kader,
+      he wishes to give up his post; Rubuga, desolation of,
+      since Burton's visit; meeting with Amer bin Sultan,
+      Kigwa, wasted condition of; Shiza, pastoral aspect of,
+      visit from the Sultan; rejoicings in camp on reaching
+      Unyanyembe territory; life in Unyanyembe; breakfast and
+      gossip with Sayd bin Salim; Kazeh, a myth; leave Kwikuru;
+      in comfortable quarters; visit from the Tabora Arab magnates;
+      Tabora, chief Arab settlement in central Africa; attend a
+      council of war, feast at the close of the council; return
+      to Kwihara; the Livingstone caravan's halt of 100 days;
+      attack of fever; preparations for the march; warlike
+      demonstration; Eastern Mfuto, illness of Shaw,
+      personnel of the army; Umanda, medicine daubing;
+      war harangue; Zimbizo, attack on the village; fate
+      of Soud bin Sayd and his Arabs; retreat and stormy
+      councils of war; further retreat of the Arabs to Tabora,
+      serious position of the Expedition; intelligence
+      of Livingstone; news of death of Farquhar; illness
+      of Shaw, attack of Mirambo on Tabora; Khamis bin
+      Abdullah, &c., slain; preparations for Mirambo's threatened
+      attack on Kwihara; visit to Sheikh bin Nassib; retreat
+      of Mirambo, determination to lead a flying caravan
+      to Ujiji; apathy of Shaw, visit to Thani bin Abdullah,
+      arrival of letters; death of Baruti, evil reports by
+      the Arabs; present of a boy-slave; defeat of Mirambo at
+      Mfuto; nursing experiences: farewell feast at Unyanyembe;
+      march to Ujiji commenced by southern route; list of "braves"
+      of the Expedition; Bombay's tender passion; the start;
+      Shaw shows the white feather; Kinyamwezi village, attack
+      of fever; arrest of runaways, threat of slave-chain;
+      Inesuka, further desertions, punishment, withdrawal of
+      Abdul Kader, the tailor; sickness in camp, adverse
+      appearances; Kasegara, rejoicings at; Kigandu, Shaw's
+      by-play; his withdrawal; beauty of Unyamwezi forest
+      scenery; Ugunda; Benta; Kikuru, the mukunguru or fever;
+      camp at Ziwani; gigantic sycamore; Manyara, cultivated
+      region; difficulty of buying provisions; visit of Mtemi;
+      his astonishment at the author's medicine-chest; Gombe
+      River, its beautiful neighbourhood; narrow escape from a
+      crocodile, suspicious-looking natives; a peaceful camp-scene;
+      symptoms of revolt at starting onwards; murderous aspect of
+      Asmani and Mabruki; the march- resumed; sketch of the principal
+      men of the Expedition; Ziwani (pool), waterless condition of;
+      Tongoni, abundance of honey-birds; Marefu, rumours of war in
+      our front; march through a forest abounding with peach-trees;
+      Utende village; Mwaru, supposed report of Livingstone, Mrera's
+      district, wild elephants; Selim falls ill, start from Mrera
+      north-westward; confidence restored in the camp, remarkable
+      ant-hills; camp in the jungle; embassy from Simba; Uzavira,
+      ruined neighbourhood of; Misonghi; Mpokwa River, deserted
+      village near; Mtambu stream, its beauty; attack by a leopard;
+      shot at a wild boar; proximity of lions; Itaga village,
+      beginning of troubles, shortness of provisions, "Welled
+      Nzogera's" village, abundant supplies; crossing a marsh;
+      reach the Malagarazi; heavy exaction of the chief Kiala;
+      island of Ihata, fresh demands for ferriage; donkey seized
+      by crocodile; Uvinza, news of Livingstone, departure from
+      the Malagarazi; country of Uhha; halt at Kawanga; halt on
+      the Pombwe stream, interview with Mionvu; exorbitant demand
+      of honga; cross the Kanengi River; more claims of honga;
+      departure by stealth; Kanengi River; cross the Rusugi;
+      Lake Musunya, Rugufu River, Kabogo Mountain, singular
+      phenomenon of; Sunuzzi River; enter Ukaranga; beauty
+      of the landscape; Mkute River, Niamtaga, alarm of the
+      people; first view of the Tanganika,  Port of Ujiji in
+      view; salute announcing the approach of the caravan; meeting
+      with Susi, the servant of Dr. Livingstone; excitement of
+      the inhabitants; appearance of the Doctor; the introduction;
+      conversation; the over-due letter-bag, 365 days from Zanzibar;
+      budget of news; intercourse with Livingstone; suggestions
+      as to his future course; start with Livingstone for cruise
+      on the Tanganika; pass Bangwe Island; wooded hills of Bemba;
+      camp at Niasanga; Nyabigma Island; Mukungu; loss of valuables
+      from Bombay's intoxication; hostile demonstrations of the Bikari
+      people; bivouac on the shore disturbed by natives; round
+      Cape Sentakeyi, and sleep at Mugeyo; Magala, hospitality of
+      the people, visit of the Mutware of; rumours of wars;
+      Kisiku, native report as to the Rusizi River; Mugere, delta
+      of the; visit Mukamba, attacked by fever and experience
+      Livingstone's tenderness; Susi's drunken fit; Mugihewa
+      territory on the delta of the Rusizi; visit of the chief
+      Ruhinga, his geographical information; exploration
+      of the Rusizi debouchure: Kukubma Point, enchanting scenery
+      near; halt at Bemba, superstition of the Wajiji; `New York
+      Herald Islets,' so named by Livingstone; Cape Luvumba
+      hostile aspect of the Wasansi, return to Ujiji, domestic
+      and foreign news; at home with Livingstone; preparations
+      for march to Unyanyembe; attack of fever; Christmas-day
+      at Ujiji; the departure; meet with Mohammed bin Gharib;
+      Sirgunga, beautiful aspect of; sport at Urimba; homeward bound;
+      an elephant herd; Ukawendi, luxuriance of its vegetation;
+      painful march to Imrera; a giraffe shot; severe attack of
+      fever, the Doctor's prescription; the caravan attacked by
+      bees; Mrera, meeting with caravan sent by Sayd bin Habid,
+      exchange of news, encounter a lion; Ugunda, the deserter
+      Hamdallah retaken; receipt of letters and newspapers;
+      welcome to Unyanyembe; stores found tampered with;
+      a second Christmas celebration, four years' stores of
+     supplies turned over to the Doctor, commission to enlist
+     at Zanzibar fifty freemen as his carriers; farewell dance
+     of natives; choragic adieu of the Wanyamwezi; last night
+     with Livingstone; the last walk in his company, the farewell;
+     a letter from the Doctor; Ngaraiso, hostility of the Wakimbu,
+     enter Ugogo; warlike demonstrations, march of warriors
+     arrayed for the fight;  Khonze, its gigantic tree-foliage;
+     determined mode of dealing with the chief successfull;
+     Kanyenyi, cordial reception by the Msagira of; Mapanga,
+     hostile demonstration; asked to act as rain-maker; Kulabi,
+     suffer from a "peppo"; Marenga Mkali; Mpwapwa, death of
+     Farquhar; Mukondokwa valley, experience of the Masika;
+     Makata plain, battling with the floods; Mvumi village,
+     fighting with mosquitoes; the Doctor's despatches in danger;
+     a perilous ford; ten days' camp at Rehenneko, difficulties
+     of the march to the Makata River; arrive at Simbo, cross the
+     Unkerengere, and reach Simbamwenni, its desolated aspect;
+     Ulagalla, extraordinary devastation by flood; Msuwa, horrors
+     of its jungle; Kingaru Hera, news of the Zanzibar storm;
+     Rosako, welcome consignment from the American Consul;
+     ill-natured criticisms, information as to the "Livingstone
+     Search and Relief Expedition"; Ringweare's ferry, a watery waste,
+     four miles broad; welcome to Bagamoyo; meeting with Lieut. Henn;
+     introduction to Mr. Oswell Livingstone; the march ended;
+     welcome at Zanzibar, the American Consul and Rev. C. New;
+     congratulation of Lieut. Dawson; discussion as to his resignation;
+     visit from Dr. Kirk and Bishop Tozer, change in the  author's
+     appearance on his return; preparations for Mr. O. Livingstone's
+     Expedition, his resignation, selection of an Arab leader,
+     farewell to old travelling companions; departure from
+     Zanzibar in the `Africa'; reach Seychelles, a month's delay
+     at Mahe, agreeable intercourse; reach England via Aden and
+     Marseilles.
+Sultan bin Mohammed,
+Sultan of Zanzibar, Mr. Stanley's interview with,
+Sunuzzi stream,
+Susi, Dr. Livingstone's servant,
+Swaruru, Sultan,
+Sycamore, gigantic,
+
+Tabora,
+Tagamoyo, massacre of the Wamanyuema by,
+Tanganika Lake, first visit to; cruise on, with Dr. Livingstone,
+Tarya Topan, integrity of
+Thani bin Abdullah, ,
+Tongoni, deserted clearing,
+Tozer, Bp., his residence at Zanzibar; his congratulations at
+           the author's success,
+Trade, mode of conducting, in Africa,
+Tsetse fly,
+Tura, Eastern; Central, ;
+          Western or Tura Perro;
+
+Udoe, cones of,
+"Uganga," or charm,
+Ugombo, Lake; Peak, Plain,
+Ugunda village,
+Uhha, king of,
+Ujiji, port of,
+Ukaranga territory, its beautiful aspect,
+Ukawendi country, scenery of,
+Ulagalla district,
+Ulimengo, absconding slave,
+Unamapokera, friendliness of,
+Ungerengeri River; Valley,
+Urundi Mountains,
+Unyamwezi forest scenery, beauty of; territory,
+Unyambogi,
+Urimba, camp at,
+Usagara Mountains,
+Utende village,
+Uwelasia River,
+Uyanzi, Magunda Mkali; or "Hot Field,"
+Uyoweh, Mirambo of,
+Uzavira, village in,
+
+Waganga, or medicine men; filthy war-potion, concocted by,
+Wagogo tribe, villages of,
+Wagtails regarded as birds of good omen,
+Waguhha tribe,
+Wagunda tribe,
+Wahumba tribe,
+Wajiji tribe,
+Wakimbu of Tura, rascality of,
+------- tribe; villages of,
+Wakonongo,
+Wamanyuema, fondness of, for marketing,
+Wangwana village,
+------- tribe, gormandizing of the,
+Wanyamwezi tribe, their superstitious aversion to antelope meat,
+War, council of, at Tabora,
+Warfare, tame mode of conducting,
+Wa-Ruga-Ruga,
+Wasawahili tribe,
+Wasansi tribe,
+Waseguhha tribe,
+Washenshi tribe,
+Wasungu tribe,
+Wavinza tribe, greed of
+Wavira tribe,
+Webb, Capt. F. R., U.S. Consul, his hospitality and courtesy,
+----, Mr. of Newstead Abbey, river named after him,
+----, Mrs.,
+Wagogo, cool impudence of the,
+Wilderness, African, more favourable to the traveller than
+      the populated country,
+Wild-boar shooting,
+Wilyankuru, attack on,
+Wire, high valve of, in the interior,
+
+Zanzibar city view of, from the bay, harbor
+         "Charley's" lodging house, ; character of the street
+         and population, trade, "M'nazi Moya"; house of Bishop
+         Tozer, mart of the interior, mode of commerce unchanged
+         for ages; population; filth and unhealthiness of;
+         inertness induced by climate of; Palace of the Sultan,
+----- Island; its aspect from the sea,
+Zassi River and village,
+Zebra,
+Zimbizo, attack on the village,
+Zimmerman on the benefit of an unencumbered mind,
+Ziwo, or pond,
+Ziwani (pool),
+Zogga, palm toddy,
+
+
+
+
+The end of the Project Gutenberg eBook  How I Found Livingstone
+
+
+
+
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