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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d7b82bc --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,4 @@ +*.txt text eol=lf +*.htm text eol=lf +*.html text eol=lf +*.md text eol=lf diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6312041 --- /dev/null +++ b/LICENSE.txt @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements, +metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be +in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES. + +Procedures for determining public domain status are described in +the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org. + +No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in +jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize +this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright +status under the laws that apply to them. diff --git a/README.md b/README.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..86a2c45 --- /dev/null +++ b/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,2 @@ +Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for +eBook #51595 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/51595) diff --git a/old/51595-0.txt b/old/51595-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index a7c3ee4..0000000 --- a/old/51595-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9164 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of Stirring Incidents In The Life of a British -Soldier, by Thomas Faughnan - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - -Title: Stirring Incidents In The Life of a British Soldier - -Author: Thomas Faughnan - -Release Date: March 29, 2016 [EBook #51595] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK STIRRING INCIDENTS--BRITISH SOLDIER *** - - - - -Produced by Brian Coe, Chris Pinfield, and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive/Canadian Libraries) - - - - - - - - [Illustration: - Yours faithfully, - Thomas Faughnan.] - - - - -STIRRING INCIDENTS - -IN THE LIFE OF - -A BRITISH SOLDIER. - -An Autobiography. - -BY - -THOMAS FAUGHNAN, - -_Late Colour-Sergeant, 2nd Battalion, 6th Royal Regiment_. - -"Faithful unto Death." - -THIRD EDITION. - - - TORONTO: - HUNTER, ROSE AND COMPANY. - 1881. - - -Entered according to the Act of the Parliament of Canada, in the year -one thousand eight hundred and seventy-nine, by THOMAS FAUGHNAN, in the -office of the Minister of Agriculture. - - - PRINTED AND BOUND BY - HUNTER, ROSE & CO., - TORONTO. - - - - -TO HIS EXCELLENCY - -The Right Honourable the Marquis of Lorne, - -K.T., G.C.M.G., - -GOVERNOR-GENERAL OF THE DOMINION OF CANADA, - -THIS STORY - -Of a British Soldier's Life - -IS, BY SPECIAL PERMISSION, RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED, - -BY HIS HUMBLE AND OBEDIENT SERVANT, - -THOMAS FAUGHNAN. - - - - -PREFACE. - - -In laying the history of my life and travels before the public, I deem -it right to state that I am past the middle age; this I feel compelled -to mention, because it is my opinion that no man should write a history -of himself until he has set foot upon the border land where the past and -the future begin to blend. When the past has receded so far that he can -behold it as in a picture, and his share in it as the history of a -soldier who has fought for his Queen and country, and had many narrow -escapes of death. But, thank God, I have been spared thus far to confess -my faults, and my good deeds look miserably poor in my own eyes; indeed, -I would no more claim a reward for them than expect a captain's -commission. - -The countries and incidents described in this work will be found I -trust, interesting to all classes of persons. The history of a soldier's -life and travels is always an entertaining and instructive one. Many -books on the lives of officers have been written by learned men -containing much information, and highly useful to the scholar, but they -do not interest the mass of common readers. Others, again, pass so -rapidly from place to place, and are so general in their description, -the reader gets but very imperfect ideas from reading them. These -extremes the writer has endeavoured to avoid. It has been my object to -select the most important events of my life, and to describe them in a -plain and familiar style. I have not indulged in learned dissertations, -my common, old-fashioned Irish school education being too limited to -give that classical finish to the work which a learned writer would have -done. Indeed, it has not been my intention to write a book for the -learned or critical, but to give to the public a volume written in a -homely style, by a non-commissioned officer, to instruct and interest -the family and the common reader, as well as my comrades. If, while -dilating on the exploits of my comrades in arms, I have omitted to pay -proper respect to gallant foes, it is because I know that history will -supply the deficiency. Time will gild with glory a Trojan defence, fitly -closed by a successful retreat across a burning bridge, under a heavy -fire. But come along, dear reader, and try whether in my first chapter I -cannot be a boy again, in such a way that my reader will gladly linger a -little in the meadows of childhood, ere we pass to riper years and -stirring battle-fields. - - - - -CONTENTS. - - -CHAPTER I. - PAGE - Education—My Schoolmaster—School House—My Father, Mother, - Sisters—Our House 17 - - -CHAPTER II. - - River Shannon—Derry Carne—Our Farm—My Sisters Get Married— - Cave—Still House—Still and Worm—Process—Interior—Revenue - Police—Irish Wake—Funeral 24 - - -CHAPTER III. - - Advanced School—State of the Country—Emigration—Cause of - Poverty—Irish Landlords—Potato Crop—Dishonest Agents— - Election—Politics—My Sister Emigrates—I Enlist 29 - - -CHAPTER IV. - - Swearing In—March to Dublin—Beggars' Bush Barrack—Rations— - The City—Embarkation—The Ship—The Voyage—Liverpool—Train - to London—Billets—Canterbury—Join the 17th Regiment 34 - - -CHAPTER V. - - Medical Examination—Receive My Kit—Drill, Manual and Platoon - Exercise—Dismissed Drill—Visit the City—Description—Route— - The March 43 - - -CHAPTER VI. - - Arrival at Dover—First Guard—The Dead House—Ghost—The - Heights—Shaft—Fortifications—Marching Out—Chartist Riots— - Train to London—Departure—Osborne House—Main Dock—Route - to Chatham—Siege—Sham Fight 50 - - -CHAPTER VII. - - Route to Canterbury—The March—Arrival—Chatham—Dock-yard— - Furlough to London—That Great City—Join my Company—Sheerness— - The Dock-yard—Get Married—Route to Weedon—Route to Ireland 59 - - -CHAPTER VIII. - - Liverpool—Embark for Dublin—The Voyage—Arrival—March—The - Train—The March to Castlebar—Arrival—Election—Route to - Galway 70 - - -CHAPTER IX. - - The March—Galway—Captain Bourchier—Detachment—Regatta—Row - with the Police—Route to Galway—Major Bourchier exchanges— - Captain Croker—Claddagh—Attend a Camp Meeting—The City of - Galway—Theatre—Route to Dublin 82 - - -CHAPTER X. - - The March—Rail to Dublin—Arrival—Garrison Duty—Castle Guard— - The Old Man's Hospital—Divine Service—Tent-Pitching—Death - of the "Iron Duke"—The Funeral—The Queen Visits Dublin— - Buildings and Institutions—The Route 93 - - -CHAPTER XI. - - Arrival at Templemore—The Route to Cork—Embarkation for - Gibraltar—Queenstown—The Voyage—Storm at Sea—Gibraltar 106 - - -CHAPTER XII. - - The Landing—Barrack—Garrison Duty—Old North Front—Smuggling— - Market—Queen's Birth-Day—The Dinner—Speeches—The Route—The - March—Embarkation for the Crimea—The Parting—The Voyage— - Arrival at Malta 121 - - -CHAPTER XIII. - - Maltese—Departure—A Captain Commits Suicide—The Funeral— - Small-Pox—Return—Resumed the Voyage—Grecian Arches— - Dardanelles—Gallipoli—Turkish Sentries—Constantinople— - Turkish Ladies—The Bosphorus—Voyage across the - Euxine—Arrival 134 - - -CHAPTER XIV. - - Disembarkation—First Bivouac—The March—Arrival—Sebastopol— - The Trenches—First Man Wounded—Return to Camp—An Alarm— - Lord Raglan—Sortie—Foraging—The Old Bridge—Col. Cole—The - Siege 149 - - -CHAPTER XV. - - March to Balaklava—Return—Men go Bare-footed—Snow five feet - deep—Long Boats—Hard Frost—Cavalry Division—Burial Ground— - Solitary Procession—Men Frozen—I build a Hut—Green Coffee— - Wintry Appearance—Dead Horses—63rd Regiment—Carrying - Provisions—French Sick 161 - - -CHAPTER XVI. - - Trenches—Canal of Mud—Russian New Year—Heavy Fire—On Sentry— - The Sortie—Old Brown Bess—Sortie—Arrival in Camp—New Style of - Candle—Flint and Steel—Making Coffee—Heavy Snow—No Fire—Warm - Clothing—Shot and Shell 171 - - -CHAPTER XVII. - - The Railway—Lord Raglan—Cossacks—The Navvies—Russian - Deserters—The Railway 182 - - -CHAPTER XVIII. - - St. Patrick's Day—Rifle Pits—Fourth Division—French Loss— - The Siege—General Attack—Flag of Truce—Burying the Dead— - Wooden Huts—Turkish Troops—Divine Service 193 - - -CHAPTER XIX. - - Bombardment—Tents blown down—Siege—Lieut. Williams—Wounded— - Sailors—Go to Hospital—Description—Sardinians—Discharged - from Hospital—Attack on Quarries—Flag of Truce—Burying - the Dead 203 - - -CHAPTER XX. - - Bombardment—The Assault—Great Redan—The Battle—Balaklava— - Hospital—Miss Nightingale—Nurses—Promoted—Discharged from - Hospital—Death of Lord Raglan 214 - - -CHAPTER XXI. - - Captain Colthurst—Siege—Bombardment—Assault—Redan—The - Battle—8th September—The Evacuation—Russians—British in - Sebastopol 228 - - -CHAPTER XXII. - - Expedition to Kinburn—The Voyage—Odessa—Landing—Cutting - Trenches—Bombardment—The White Flag—Capitulation—The - Prisoners—_Reconnaissance_—The March—Village—Bivouac—March— - A Village—Pigs and Geese—Departure—The Fleet—Return—Sir - W. Codrington—Russian Spy 241 - - -CHAPTER XXIII. - - Armistice—Cessation of Hostilities—Exchange of Coins—Heir - to French Imperial Throne—Treaty of Peace—Invitations—Grand - Review—Removal of the Army—Embarkation—The Voyage—Ship on - Fire—Arrival at Malta—Join the Reserve Battalion—Proceed to - Alexandria—The Voyage—Arrival—Visit Places of Renown—Visit - Cairo—The Nile—Arrival—The City—Bazaars 253 - - -CHAPTER XXIV. - - The Pyramids—Crossing the Nile—Island of Roda—Ark of - Bulrushes—Visit Cheops—Heliopolis—Palace of Shoobra—Palm - Groves—The Citadel—Joseph's Well—Dervishes—Return 266 - - -CHAPTER XXV. - - The Hospital—Mohammedan Sabbath—Departure—The Voyage—Malta— - Departure—Voyage for England—Portsmouth—Voyage to Dublin— - Arrival at Limerick—The 6th Royal Regiment—Promoted—Aldershot— - Route for Gibraltar—The Voyage 281 - - -CHAPTER XXVI. - - Arrival—Spanish Bull-fights—Lieut. Jackson—Change Quarters— - The Rock—Monkeys—Caves—Gardens—War in Algiers—Corfu—Voyage— - Arrival—Santa Maria—Desertion—The March—Greeks 296 - - -CHAPTER XXVII. - - Sir Henry Storks—Albania—Visit Nicropolis—The Brigand Chief— - Turkish Baths—Coffee Houses—Turkish Ladies' Costume— - Sergeants' Ball—The Route—Corfu—Route—West Indies—The - Voyage—The Burning Mountain—Gibraltar—Madeira—Teneriffe— - Santa Cruz—Cape de Verde Islands—Trinidad—Jamaica 309 - - -CHAPTER XXVIII. - - Jamaica—The Exhibition—Market—Rebellion—the Commission—Col. - Hobbs—The Voyage—Route—Voyage—Queen's Birth-day—Edinburgh— - Calton Hill—Tolbooth—Queen Mary's Room—Dunoon—Discharged— - Dalkeith—Glasgow—Embark for Canada—The Voyage—Arrival— - Montreal—Kingston—Picton—The Dunkin Bill—Marquis of Lorne 327 - - - - -TESTIMONIALS TO THE WRITER. - - - EDINBURGH CASTLE, _April 26th, 1868_. - -I have great pleasure in stating that I have known Sergeant Thomas -Faughnan for about nine years, and during most of that period he was Pay -and Colour-Sergt. of my Company. He was also Sergt.-Major of a -Detachment of which I had command, and I cannot say too much in his -favour, either as a soldier or as a trustworthy person. - -He always gave me the greatest satisfaction, in the position he was -placed; both by his high sense of discipline, as well as his entire -knowledge of drill, and he leaves the Regiment with the respect of every -one. - - (Signed) JOHN E. TEWART, - _Captain, 2nd Batt., 6th Royal Regiment._ - [TRUE COPY.] - - -Sergeant Faughnan was discharged from the 2nd Battalion, 6th Foot, in -Edinburgh, May, 1868, after twenty-one years' service, with an excellent -character, I have pleasure in stating that I consider him a most honest, -trustworthy, respectable man; for many years he held positions of much -responsibility. - - (Signed) JOHN ELKINGTON, - _Colonel Commd'g 2nd Batt., 6th Royal Regiment_. - ALDERSHOT CAMP, _July 10th, 1868_. - [TRUE COPY.] - - - ALDERSHOT CAMP, _July 12th, 1868_. - -I have known Sergeant Faughnan for the last five years, in the 2nd Batt. -6th Regiment, and can say that he has behaved himself very well in every -way as a soldier. He was an honest, willing and sober man; he was also -Mess Sergeant for several years, and gave every satisfaction, and -deserves to get on in the world, and I much wish he may do so. - - (Signed) SPENCER FIELD, - _Captain, 2nd Batt., 6th Royal Regiment_. - [TRUE COPY.] - - -I have known Sergeant Thomas Faughnan, late Sergeant in the 2nd -Battalion, 6th Regiment, for about ten years, during which time he -served as Pay and Colour-Sergeant to a Company with great satisfaction -to the Captains; also as Sergeant-Major to a Detachment, in which -position, by his steady conduct and fair knowledge of drill, he -commanded the respect of his superiors. He has since served as Mess and -Wine Sergeant to the Battalion, and has been sober and attentive to -those duties. I can recommend him as a general useful Non Commissioned -officer. - - (Signed) HENRY KITCHENER, - _Lieut, and Adjt. 2nd Battalion, 6th Foot_. - EDINBURGH CASTLE, 25, 4, '68. - [TRUE COPY.] - - -I have known Sergeant Faughnan—now taking his discharge from the 6th -Regiment, with a pension, after twenty one years' service—since the -year 1860, and have served with him in Gibraltar, the Ionian Islands, -and the West Indies. Up to 1865 he was a Colour-Sergeant of the -Regiment, and as such was very much respected. About the middle of the -year he became Sergeant of the Officers' Mess, in which position he -remained up to the departure of the Regiment from Edinburgh, on the 22nd -May, 1868. He was for about two years caterer of the said Mess, and in -addition had charge of all wines, ale, &c. Thousands of pounds must have -passed through his hands, for every portion of which he has had to -account, and his remaining up to the last moment in the Mess is a proof -of his having done so most satisfactorily. I, myself, have a very high -opinion of Sergeant Faughnan for his straightforwardness, honesty, -sobriety, ability, and steady good conduct. I am sure his loss will be -much felt in the 6th Regiment. - - (Signed) L. B. HOLE, - _Captain, 2nd Batt., 6th Royal Regiment_. - [TRUE COPY.] - - -I have known Sergeant T. Faughnan for the last seven years, and have -always found him honest, sober, quiet and obliging. He is a good -accountant, and was employed in charge of the Mess, 2nd Batt., 6th -Regiment for some time, and gave every satisfaction. He was also a -Colour-Sergeant and had charge and payment of a Company for some time, -and resigned his colours to go to the Mess. - - (Signed) W. G. ANNESLEY, - _Captain, 2nd Batt. 6th Royal Regiment._ - ALDERSHOT CAMP, _8th June, 1868_. - [TRUE COPY.] - - - - -[Illustration] - - STIRRING INCIDENTS - IN THE LIFE OF - A BRITISH SOLDIER - - - - -CHAPTER I. - - EDUCATION—MY SCHOOLMASTER—SCHOOL HOUSE—MY FATHER, MOTHER, - SISTERS—OUR HOUSE. - - -I have for some time been trying to think how far back my memory could -go; but, as far as I can judge, the earliest definite recollection I -have is the discovery of how I played the truant, in stopping on the -way-side playing pitch and toss, instead of going to school; and how I -cut all the buttons of my jacket and trowsers for the purpose of -gambling with other boys. After losing all my buttons, I had to pin my -jacket to my trousers. In Ireland in those days, boys had to be content -with gambling for buttons instead of coppers as now-a-days. I was late -for school, and was rather remarkable, going in with my trousers and -jacket fastened together with pins. I remember well the master called me -over to him. Oh! I will never forget his spiteful countenance, and how -he showed his ivories. My heart beat fast. I thought I was very wicked, -and fright made my heart jump to my mouth. I had to stand my trial. -Master: "Well, boy, what kept you late for school?" Before I had time to -answer, "How came the buttons off your clothes; tell me straightforward -at once, who cut them off, and what became of them? Hold up your head -and speak out." "I—I—I—cut them off, sir, to play with the boys, and -they won my buttons." "O, ho! you have been gambling, have you? I will -teach you to cut the buttons off your clothes to gamble. Go, stand in -that corner until I am through with the class." - -"Pat Cannon, take this knife, go out and cut a strong birch, this one I -have is nearly worn out. I want a strong one for this youth." - -While I was standing in the corner, one of the boys, or, as we used to -call them, "gossoons," stole over to me and gave me a big shawl-pin, -saying: "Stick this in the boy's neck who takes you on his back." I took -the pin as I was told, and nerved myself up for the occasion. - -"Dan McLaughlin, take Thomas Faughnan on your back." - -I was brought up in due form. "Take off your jacket; get on Dan -McLaughlin's back." - -No sooner had I got on his back, and before the master had time to -administer the first stroke of the birch, than I sunk the big pin into -the boy's neck. He shouted at the top of his voice, yelling as if he had -been stabbed with a knife, and fell over the other boys, causing great -commotion. In the uproar and confusion I made my escape out of the -school, jacket in hand. The master stood in a state of amazement. It -took him quite a while to restore order among the boys. I waited outside -until the school came out, then went home with my comrades as if nothing -had happened, and did not go to school again for three days. The master -reported my absence. My father questioned me concerning my absence from -school. I then told him the whole affair, and, as I was afraid of -getting another flogging, he accompanied me to the school next day. - -It will be necessary, here, to describe the master and the school. The -master had only one leg and that was his right; he had lost his left -when young, by some means which I never heard of; he walked with a long -crutch under his left arm, and a short one in his right hand. He trotted -very fast, considering that he went on crutches. He was in truth a -terror to dogs or animals which dared to cross his path on his way to -and from the school, and could most wonderfully use the right hand -crutch with great skill and alacrity, in his own defence. - -The school was held in the chapel, which was a most peculiar edifice of -ancient architectural design. Its shape was that of a triangle, each -side of which formed a long hall, one for boys, the other for girls; -there was a gallery at the extreme end of the girls' hall which the -choir occupied during divine service. - -The structure was one story in height, and had a very high, slanting, -thatched roof, with narrow gables. The edge of the gables rose, not in a -slope, but in a succession of notches, like stairs. Altogether it had an -extraordinary look about it, a look of the time when men had to fight in -order to have peace, to kill in order to live—every man's hand against -his brother. The altar stood in the acute corner of the angle, facing -the men's hall, with a railing around it. Under the altar was a small -hole sufficiently large enough for a boy to crawl in. One day I had done -something for which the master started to punish my back with the birch. -He was laying it on pretty stiffly, and he had me in a tight place, -when, in self defence, I pulled the crutch from under him. He fell over -and I retreated into the hole under the altar. However, tracing me out, -he started to dislodge me with his long crutch. For every thrust he gave -me, I gave him one in return, until I found he was too strong for me, -when I made one drive at him, jumped out of my hiding place, and left -for home in a hurry that day. Next day I expected a flogging, but I got -off much easier than I had anticipated. Afterwards—how strange!—he -took quite a liking to me. The number of pupils attending was over two -hundred. The hall was supplied with fuel by a contribution of two turfs -from each scholar every morning, which he brought under his arm. - -Enough of my school history—it would spin out my narrative -unnecessarily. I shall only relate such occurrences as may be necessary -to lead to those main events which properly constitute my eventful -history. I remember my father, but not my mother. She died when I was -yet a baby, and the woman I had been taught to call mother was only my -stepmother. My father had married a second time, and now our family -consisted of my father, stepmother, two sisters, and myself. Our house -was of olden-time stone, gray and brown. It looked very gray and yet -there was a homely, comfortable appearance about it. A visitor's first -step was into what would in some parts here be called "house place"—a -room which served all the purposes of kitchen and dining-room. It rose -to a fair height, with smoked-stained oaken beams above, and was floored -with a home-made kind of cement, hard enough, and yet so worn that it -required a good deal of local knowledge to avoid certain jars of the -spine from sudden changes of level. - -My sisters kept the furniture very clean and shining, especially the -valued pewter on the dresser. The square table, with its spider-like -accumulation of legs, stood under the window until meal times, when, -like an animal aroused from its lair, it stretched those legs and -assumed expanded, symmetrical shape, in front of the fireplace in -winter, and nearer the door in summer. Its memory recalls the occasion -of my stepmother, with a hand at each end of it, searching frantically -for the level, poking for it with the creature's own legs before lifting -the hanging leaves, and then drawing out the hitherto supernumerary legs -to support them, after which would come another fresh adjustment, -another hustling to and fro, that the new feet likewise might have some -chance to rest. The walls of this room were always whitewashed in -spring, occasioning ever a sharpened contrast with the dark brown oak -ceiling. If that was ever swept I never knew. I do not remember ever -seeing it done. At all events its colour remained unimpaired by hand or -whitewash. On the walls hung several articles, some of them high above -my head, which attracted my attention particularly. There was a -fishing-rod, which required the whole length between the windows to -support it. There were old bookshelves, hanging between the old pewter, -of which we were very proud; my father's temperance medal, which he -received from Father Mathew; a picture of Dan O'Connell, the "Irish -Liberator;" several other pictures, and many articles of antique and -Irish origin. I need not linger over these things. Their proper place is -in the picture with which I would save words and help understanding if I -could. - - - MY NATIVE VILLAGE. - - Dear Fiarana! loveliest village of the green. - Where humble happiness endeared each scene; - The never-failing brook at Drumod Mill, - The parish church on John Nutley's hill. - - There in the old thatched chapel, skilled to rule, - The one-legged master taught the parish school; - A learned man was he, but stern to view— - His crutch he often used, and well the gossoons knew. - - Well had the daring urchins learned to trace - His scowling countenance and his fierce grimace; - And yet they laughed with much delight and glee - At all his tales, for many a one had he. - - In all my travels round this world so fair, - Of trials and marches I have had my share; - I still have hope my latter days to crown, - And 'midst old friends at home to lay me down. - - I trust and hope to visit home again, - And sell my book to every village swain; - Around the hearth a wondering crowd to draw, - While spinning yarns of what I heard and saw. - - Men who a military life pursue, - Look forward to the home from whence they flew; - I still have hopes, my long eventful past, - Some day return, and stay at home last. - - T. FAUGHNAN. - - -[Illustration] - - - - -[Illustration] - -CHAPTER II. - - RIVER SHANNON—DERRY CARNE—OUR FARM—MY SISTERS GET MARRIED—CAVE— - STILL-HOUSE—STILL AND WORM—PROCESS—INTERIOR—REVENUE POLICE—IRISH - WAKE—FUNERAL. - - -Our residence was situated on a beautiful bay of the River Shannon in -the County of Leitrim. - -The month was July, and nothing could be more exhilarating than the -breezes which played over the green fields that were now radiant with -the light which was flooded down upon them from the cloudless sun. -Around them, in every field, were the tokens of that pleasant labour -from which the hope of an ample and abundant harvest always springs. - -The bay was bounded on the east by a large wood which abounds in game of -every description. Gentlemen from the surrounding counties were -frequently invited by its owner, Francis Nesbitt, Esq., Derry Carne, -during the shooting and fishing season. Many times I have been out with -them, coming home foot-sore in the evening, after traversing the woods -all day with the sportsmen. Those were happy days. - -My father and the hired man, with the help of my two sisters managed to -sow and gather in the produce of the small farm. I, being the only son, -was kept at school till about sixteen years old, after which I had to -make myself useful around the house and farm. I was about twelve years -old when my eldest sister was married; about two years afterwards my -other sister took unto herself a partner, for better, for worse. After -those events our family dwindled down to three, viz., my father, -stepmother, and myself. - -About this time I roamed about the country a good deal. In the evenings -a few other boys and myself assembled in a "Potteen Still-house" to see -the men who manufactured the potteen, and hear them tell stories. It was -situated about two miles in a north-western direction from our -residence. The country was very rugged and wild, but picturesque. -Although a portion of the same landscape, nothing could be more -strikingly distinct in character than the position of those hills. They -formed a splendid pasture lane for sheep. In approaching these hills you -struck into a "Borheen," or lane which conducted you to the front of a -steep precipice of rocks about fifty feet high. In the northern cover of -this ravine there was an entrance to a subterraneous passage twenty feet -long, which led to a large chamber or deep cave, having every -convenience for a place of private distillation. Under the rocks which -met over it was a kind of gothic arch, and a stream of water just -sufficient for the requisite purpose fell in through a fissure from -above, forming such a little cascade in the cavern as human design -itself could scarcely have surpassed in perfect adaptation for the -object of an illicit distiller. To this cave, then, we must take the -liberty of transporting our readers, in order to give them an -opportunity of getting a peep at the inside of a "Potteen Still-house." -In that end which constituted the termination of the cave, and fixed -upon a large turf fire which burned within a circle of stones that -supported it, was a tolerably sized still made of copper. The mouth of -this still was enclosed by an air-tight cover, also of copper, called -the head, from which a tube of the same metal projected into a large -condenser that was kept always filled with cold water by an incessant -stream from the cascade I have already described, which always ran into -and overflowed it. - -The arm of this head was made air-tight, fitting into a spiral tube of -copper, called the worm, which rested in the water of the cooler; and as -it consisted of several twists like a corkscrew, its effect was to -condense the hot vapour which was transmitted to it from the glowing -still into that description of alcohol known as potteen whiskey or -"mountain dew." - -At the bottom of the cooler the worm terminated in a small cock, from -which the spirits passed in a slender stream about the thickness of a -pipe-stem into a vessel placed for its reception. Such was the position -of the still, head, and worm, when in full operation. - -Fixed about the cave, on wooden benches, were the usual requisites for -the various processes through which it was necessary to put the malt -before the wort, which is the first liquid shape, was fermented, cleared -and passed into the still to be singled; for our readers must know that -distillation is a double process, the first produced being called -singlings, and the second or last doublings—which is the perfect -liquor. Sacks of malt, empty barrels, piles of turf, heaps of grain, -tubs of wash, kegs of whiskey, were lying about in all directions; -together with pots, pans, wooden-trenchers, and dishes for culinary use. - -On entering, your nose was assaulted by such a fume of warm grains, sour -barm, and strong whiskey, as required considerable fortitude to bear, -without very unequivocal tokens of disgust. Seated around the fire were -a party of shebeen men and three or four publicans who came on -professional business. - -In order to evade the vigilance of the "Revenue Police," or, as they -were called, "Still Hunters," the smoke, which passed through a hole in -the roof, came up into a pasture field. On the top of this hole was -fitted a wide flag, made to be shifted at will. On the top of this flag -was kept a turf fire, in charge, of a boy who herded sheep and goats. -When the boy saw the police advancing towards the fire he would shift -the flag over the hole. The police came, lit their pipes, walked off, -and suspected nothing. The boy then shifted back the flag, in order to -let the smoke escape. In this way they escaped detection. - -Several illicit stills flourished in this part of the country, which I -frequently visited during the winter evenings. When there happened to be -a wake I often accompanied parties for whiskey to this still-house; it -being the custom to have a supply of liquor to enliven the guests on -good occasions. The boys and girls always expected a good time for fun -and frolic at a wake, especially if it was an old person who gave up the -ghost; therefore it was looked forward to as a kind of pleasurable -occurrence to the rising generation. I became a regular frequenter on -such occasions, for a radius of three or four miles. The corpse was laid -out on a table, with a white curtain similar to those over a bed. On the -same table, in front were six lighted candles. At the entrance stood a -table furnished with bottles of whiskey, glasses, tobacco and pipes, for -those who drank and smoked to help themselves. An old woman sat at the -head of the corpse whose duty it was to start the crying on the entrance -of a guest. After they got through with the crying, the host passed -round whiskey, tobacco and pipes; when the conversation went on as if -nothing had happened, except the loud crying, which was only the women's -part, the men not joining in it. - -When my stepmother's sister died, I put an onion to my eyes, in order to -cause them to shed tears, which had the desired effect. Those wakes -generally last two or three nights. Whiskey is passed round previous to -the funeral procession starting from the house. - -On returning the processionists invariably called into a "shebeen" to -have a sociable chat and a parting glass to drown their sorrows. I -refrain from quoting the conversation of those peasants, as it would -take up too much space and defeat my object in laying the history of my -life and travels before my readers. - - - - -[Illustration] - -CHAPTER III. - - ADVANCED SCHOOL—STATE OF THE COUNTRY—EMIGRATION—CAUSE OF - POVERTY—IRISH LANDLORDS—POTATO CROP—DISHONEST AGENTS— - ELECTIONS—POLITICS—MY SISTER EMIGRATES—I ENLIST. - - -About the time this chapter opens I had been removed from the country -school (which has been already described in the first chapter), and sent -to a much more advanced and better school, in the town of Drumod, County -Leitrim. I continued at this school about four years, during which time -I had waxed strong in mind, strength, and learning. In the meanwhile the -state of the country gradually assumed a worse and more depressing -character. - -Indeed, at this period of my narrative, the position of Ireland was very -gloomy. Situated as the country was, emigration went forward on an -extensive scale—emigration, too, of that particular description which -every day enfeebles and impoverishes the country, by depriving her of -all that approaches to anything like a comfortable and independent -yeomanry. This, indeed, is a kind of depletion which no country can bear -long; and, as it is, at the moment I write this, progressing at a rate -beyond all precedent, it will not, I trust, be altogether uninteresting -to enquire into some of the causes that have occasioned it. Of course -the principal cause of emigration is the poverty and the depressed state -of the country, wages often being as low as eight-pence a day, and it -follows naturally that whatever occasions our poverty will necessarily -occasion emigration. The first cause of our poverty then is -"absenteeism," which, by drawing six million pounds out of the country, -deprives our people of employment and means of life to that amount. The -next is the general inattention of Irish landlords to the state and -condition of their property, and an inexcusable want of sympathy with -their tenantry, which indeed is only a corollary from the former, for it -can hardly be expected that those who wilfully neglect themselves will -feel a warm interest in others. Political corruption in the shape of the -forty shilling franchise, was another cause, and one of the very worst, -which led to the prostration of the country by poverty and moral -degradation, and for this proprietors of the land were solely -responsible. Nor can the use of the potato as the staple food of the -labouring class, in connection with the truck or credit system and the -consequent absence of money payments,—in addition to the necessary -ignorance of domestic and social comforts, that resulted,—be left out -of this wretched catalogue of our grievances. Another cause of -emigration is to be found in the high and exorbitant rents at which land -is held by all classes of farmers—with some exceptions, such as in the -case of old leases—but especially by those who hold under middlemen, or -on the principle of sub-letting generally. - -By this system a vast deal of distress and petty but most harassing -oppression is every day in active operation, which the head landlord can -never know, and for which he is in no other way responsible than by want -of knowledge of his estates. - -There are still causes, however, which too frequently drive the -independent farmer out of the country. In too many cases it happens that -the rapacity and dishonesty of the agent, countenanced or stimulated by -the necessities and reckless extravagance of the landlord, fall like -some unwholesome blight upon that enterprise and industry which would -ultimately, if properly encouraged, make the country prosperous, and the -landed proprietors independent men. I allude to the nefarious and -monstrous custom of ejecting tenants who have made improvements, or, -when permitted to remain, make them pay for the improvements which they -have made. - -A vast proportion of this crying and oppressive evil must be laid -directly to the charge of those who fill the responsible situation of -landlords and agents to property in Ireland, than whom in general there -does not exist a more unscrupulous, oppressive, arrogant, and dishonest -class of men. Exceptions of course there are, and many, but speaking of -them as a body, I unhappily assert nothing but what the conditions of -property, and of those who live upon it, do at this moment and have for -many years testified. I have already stated that there was a partial -failure in the potato crops that season, a circumstance which ever is -the forerunner of famine and sickness. - -The failure, however, on that occasion, was not alone caused by a blight -in the stalks, but large portions of the seed failing to grow. In -addition, however, to all I have already detailed as affecting the -neighbourhood, or rather the parish, of Anaduff, I have to inform my -readers that the country was soon about to have a contested election. -Viscount Clemens and Samuel White, Esq., were the opposing candidates. -The former had been a convert to Liberalism, and the latter a sturdy -Conservative, a good deal bigoted in politics, but possessing that rare -and inestimable quality which constitutes an honest man. - -It was a hard contested election. The electors throughout the country -were driven to the town on side cars escorted by police. The excitement -was fearful. However the people's candidate gained the election. There -was a large amount of whiskey drunk during this election and there was -plenty of fighting. - -At this time my eldest sister, with her husband, emigrated to Canada. On -parting with her she said she would send for me, but I did not like the -idea of going to America or Canada at that time, although I heard good -reports from both countries. I thought instead that I would go for a -soldier. I had seen splendid, tall soldiers frequently marching past our -house, when I invariably accompanied them for several miles to hear -their band play. With this intention I went to the fair of Mohill, on -the 8th of May, 1847. There I met a recruiting party. I went up to the -sergeant and asked him if he would take me for a soldier; he answered me -in the affirmative. He then told me to answer the following question, -viz.: "Are you free, willing and able to serve Her Majesty Queen -Victoria, her heirs and successors, for a period of twenty-one years?" I -answered, "I am." "Then take this shilling in the name of the Queen." I -"took the shilling," and was one of Queen Victoria's soldiers, and of -the 17th regiment of foot. I must say I never regretted it since. - - - MY OWN, MY NATIVE LAND. - - "Where'er I roam, whatever realms to see, - My heart untravelled fondly turns to thee; - Such is the patriot's boast where'er we roam; - His first, best country, ever is at home. - And trembling, shrinking from the spoiler's hand, - Far, far away thy children leave the land. - Ill fares the land, to hastening ills a prey, - Where wealth accumulates, and men decay: - Princes and lords may flourish, or may fade; - A breath can make them, as a breath has made; - But a bold peasantry, their country's pride, - When once destroyed, can never be supplied. - A time there was, ere Ireland's griefs began, - When every rood of ground maintained its man; - For him light labour spread her wholesome store, - Just gave what life required, but gave no more; - His best companions, innocence and health; - And his best riches, ignorance of wealth. - The broken soldier kindly bade to stay, - Sat by his fire, and talked the night away; - Wept o'er his wounds or tales of sorrow done, - Shouldered his crutch and showed how fields were won." - - - - -[Illustration] - -CHAPTER IV. - - SWEARING IN—MARCH TO DUBLIN—BEGGARS' BUSH BARRACKS—RATIONS—THE - CITY—EMBARKATION—THE SHIP—THE VOYAGE—LIVERPOOL—TRAIN TO LONDON— - BILLETS—CANTERBURY—JOIN THE 17TH REGIMENT. - - -The sergeant conducted me to the rendezvous, where I passed a medical -examination, and was returned fit for "Her Majesty's Service." He then -ushered me into a room in which were five more brothers-in arms. - -Next morning at ten o'clock I was taken before a magistrate and -sworn-in, after which I received a half-crown, called "swearing-in -money." My sister and stepmother hearing I had enlisted came after me -the following day, and tried to get me off, but the sergeant would not -hear of it, and I was unwilling, as I had made up my mind to be a -soldier, as I was anxious to get away from my relatives. My anxiety was -soon realized, for next morning, after breakfast, we were on the road -for Dublin in charge of a staff sergeant, the distance being one hundred -and fifty miles, which we accomplished in ten days. During the journey -the sergeant amused us with stories of his experience in the regiment to -which he belonged, marches in different countries, and several battles -he had fought. It being the month of May, the roads were in good -condition, the weather salubrious, and the country beautiful in the -summer sun. - -On our arrival in the evening we were billetted at a public house, where -soon after our arrival we enjoyed a hot meal, the landlord being allowed -ten-pence for the same, this being according to "Her Majesty's -Regulations." After we had regaled ourselves with the landlord's -hospitality, the sergeant enjoyed himself with his pipe and a glass or -two of beer; he also gave us some of it to drink. I had never tasted -beer previous to this, although I had often tasted "potheen whiskey." -After the sergeant had finished his pipe and glass of beer, we retired -to bed, slept well, and dreamed of long marches. We were on the march -again next morning at eight o'clock, and so every day until we reached -Dublin, which we accomplished in ten days. On arriving in that city I -was astonished at the appearance of the splendid high buildings, the -like of which I had never seen before; they formed a striking contrast -with the cabins which I had been used to look upon in Leitrim. - -We entered the city from the south, marched past the Royal Barracks, -along the Liffy to Carlisle Bridge, where we crossed over; thence past -the Bank and Trinity College, to Beggars' Bush Barracks where we were to -await orders to join the depôt of our regiment in Canterbury. - -On our arrival in barracks we were told off to different companies _pro -tem._ until our embarkation for Liverpool. This was my first night in -barracks. I was shown a bed or cot, with three pegs over it, to hang my -clothes on. We soon got acquainted with other recruits, and old -soldiers, who showed us to the canteen, where there was a large company -of soldiers and recruits carousing and singing. On the first post -sounding, we had to answer our names in barracks at tattoo roll-call, -and be in bed at last post. Fifteen minutes afterwards "out lights" was -sounded, when all the lights were put out, except the orderly -sergeants', who had fifteen minutes longer for theirs. "Reveillé" -sounded next morning at five, when we all got up, made our beds, and -were on parade at six o'clock, when we were drilled till half-past -seven, were practised at setting up drill and the goose step. It being -my first drill, I was awkward; we had three such drills daily (Sundays -excepted), while we were in these barracks. On being dismissed, we went -to breakfast, which consisted of a pound of bread and a basin of coffee -each; my appetite being good, I made short work of the pound of bread. -Our dinner consisted of soup, beef and potatoes; at supper we got a -quarter of a pound of bread and a basin of tea. After paying for our -rations, washing, and barrack damages, there were four-pence left, which -I received every day at twelve o'clock, so that I could spend that much -for extra food if I wanted it; some of the recruits preferred to spend -it in beer. - -When the daily afternoon drill was over I generally walked into the city -to see what I could of the place. I went past some splendid shops, saw -the soldiers on guard at the castle, went into the Royal, Ship-street, -and Linen Hall Barracks, visited Nelson's monument, Sackville Streets, -Four Courts and Burns' saloon in the evening. After we had been a week -in barracks, an order came for us to proceed to Canterbury and join our -depôt there; this order was most agreeable, and we hailed it with -pleasure, for we were anxious to get into our uniform. Accordingly two -days afterwards, fourteen of us, with a staff sergeant in charge, were -paraded on the barrack-square. After we had signed our accounts, and -were told that our bounty would be paid to us on arrival at our depôt, -we were told to number off from the right, and showed how to "form four -deep;" the command "quick march" being given, we marched off to the -north wall for embarkation on board a steamer which was to sail for -Liverpool at four p.m. that day. An officer accompanied us to the -steamer to see us all safe on board. - -Several soldiers came to see us off. I would like to tell my reader more -about Dublin; but, as I hope to visit it again during my soldiering, I -will defer them till further experience has increased my stock of -knowledge. Four o'clock p.m. was the time set for our departure; we were -all well pleased when we got on board; the afternoon was beautiful, so -we anticipated a pleasant voyage. An ocean-ship was to me a novel place, -and I had many things to learn. "What is that little flag at the main -mast?" said I to a man standing near me. "That they call a Blue Peter; -it indicates that the ship is to sail immediately." "And what is that -flag at the stern?" "Why, that is the Union Jack, the pride and boast of -every British subject." - -My reflections were broken by the loud, sharp cry of the ships captain, -"all on board." The last warning was given; friends hastily exchanged -the farewell tokens of affection. I saw many, too, struggling to keep -their tears back. I stood alone; no one knew me or cared particularly -for me, but I was not an uninterested spectator. I dropped a few tears -when I looked at my native land, which I was about to leave, and thought -of the friends I had left behind me. All was in readiness,—ten minutes -past four o'clock p.m. the ponderous machine was put in motion; the huge -paddle-wheels lazily obeyed the mandate. The Blue Peter came down and -the Union Jack went up, and we moved slowly out among the shipping of -the harbour. It was a clear, beautiful evening, and the water lay like -an immense mirror in the sun-light; we passed the light-house which -stood at the end of the harbour like a huge sentinel to guide the -passage to the ocean. Onward we went; shore and city faded away and -disappeared in the distance. I looked out on the wide expanse of waters; -the sea and sky were all that could be seen now, except a few sea-gulls, -which hovered round the ship in search of an accidental crumb that might -be thrown over-board. We were fairly out at sea. The flags were taken -in, and things put in readiness for rougher ocean life; for a time we -moved on pleasantly. Towards sun-down a head wind sprang up producing -that rocking motion of the boat that makes sea life so much of a dread -to those unaccustomed to water; at about ten o'clock our head wind -changed to a side wind, and we had what the sailors call "a chopping -sea," producing a very unpleasant motion of the boat. Previous to this -the recruits were in good spirits, but now silence reigned; I could see -them getting pale, and one by one go below. I felt myself approaching a -crisis of some kind, but was determined to put it off as long as -possible. I kept on deck in the open air, and resolutely frowned down -all signs of rebellion in my stomach. From what I heard going on around -me, I was aware I was not the worst sufferer; with some the agony of the -contest was kept up all night long. At three o'clock p.m., we passed -Holy Head; at five we were steaming up the Mersey, and were landed on -Liverpool Dock at six o'clock. After a run of twelve and a half hours, -here I was, standing in amazement, looking at the forests of masts, and -the vast amount of shipping in the Docks. Liverpool is noted principally -for its shipping accommodation and fine docks; of these it has now over -eleven miles in length, all walled in, and protected by massive gates -like the locks of a canal; this renders the shipping very secure. It is -a place of great mercantile importance and trade; the streets are -continually in a perfect jam with heavy waggons and vehicles of almost -every description. If I was astonished at the appearance of Dublin, how -much more so at this great Babel of commerce. The sergeant took us to an -eating-house, owned by one of his acquaintances, where he ordered -breakfast, for which I believe the landlord did not make much profit; -for what with sea-sickness, and fasting since three p.m. the day -previous, I'll leave it to my reader to determine whether we were able -to do justice to the landlord's hospitality or not. - -We left the depôt at Liverpool about ten a.m. on the "Great -North-western Railway" for London. I am now taking my first view of -England and English scenery, also my first ride in a railway carriage. -As we passed along, numerous towns and villages dotted the country; -multitudes of great black smoke stacks, amid splendid steeples and -church towers, side by side, rose in majesty towards the heavens. - -Thus religion and industry are generally, nay always, found in close -proximity; with the smoke of the furnace goes up the incense of worship; -with the hum of machinery is mingled the anthem of praise. The train -stopped at several stations, which were beautifully fitted up; during -the journey we frequently partook of refreshments at the different -stations. The train travelled very fast. After a ride of one hundred and -eighty miles, in nine and a half hours, we reached London, the great -metropolis of England, and the mart of the world. We were set down at -Euston Station. Now my eyes, indeed, were opened wide, gazing on the -magnificence of the great modern Babel of the universe. We were billeted -on three different taverns, in close proximity to each other. The -sergeant had to report himself at the "Horse Guards," and hand over some -recruits which he had for regiments stationed at London. - -He left me in charge of the billet while he was gone. We remained here -five days, during which I visited a great many places. There are many -wonderful things that can be seen in a brief walk through this great -metropolis, if a man has his eyes open. - -I should like to have had time here to take my reader to the top of some -of the tall monuments; to walk with him among the wondrous -fortifications of "Old London Tower," through the rooms where nobles, -princes, kings, and queens have been incarcerated; to stand with him on -"Tower Hill," where the scaffold and executioner's block tell their dark -tales of treachery and blood and murder. I should like to go with my -reader to Westminster Abbey, a wonderful pile, a venerable old church, -and the great sepulchral home of England's honoured dead. It is worth a -journey across the Atlantic to take a stroll through its cold, damp -aisles and chapels; to stand amid its costly monuments and mouldering -dust, where death for many long centuries has been gathering her -glorious trophies, and yet her dark garlands have been recorded and -embodied by human skill and art and genius. I have in a very brief space -brought before my readers facts and stories; but I must defer any -further description until my next visit, for I hope to see all those -wonders again. The sergeant had done his duty to his satisfaction, and -this being our last evening in London, he took us to the Haymarket -Theatre, where we witnessed the "Colleen Bawn." After the play was over, -we took the serjeant into a saloon close by, and treated him to oysters, -beer, and cigars, after which we went to our billets quite jolly. Next -morning, after paying the landlord and bidding him good-bye, we marched -to the Waterloo Railway Station, where we took the train at ten o'clock. -After a ride of about eighty miles, in two hours, we were in Canterbury, -and put down at St. Dunstan Street Station, marched into barracks, and -were handed over to the officer commanding the depôt of the 17th -Regiment of Foot, "The Royal Tigers." We were told off to companies, and -shown our quarters. More about Canterbury as my story advances. As I am -now stationed here; I hope to have an opportunity of getting acquainted -with this ancient cathedral city. - - -[Illustration] - - - - -[Illustration] - -CHAPTER V. - - MEDICAL EXAMINATION—RECEIVE MY KIT—DRILL, MANUAL AND PLATOON - EXERCISE—DISMISSED DRILL—VISIT THE CITY—DESCRIPTION—ROUTE— - THE MARCH. - - -The following morning, reveillé Sounded at Five o'clock, when I turned -out, made my bed, and was dressed when the drill bugle sounded at -half-past. - -Parade being formed at six by the sergeant-major, the recruits without -uniform were not required to drill that morning; drill being over and -the bugle for breakfast sounding, we all sat down to a pound of bread -and a basin of coffee each. We were afterwards marched to the Regimental -Hospital by the orderly corporal, where we passed another medical -examination, which was final, and were returned fit for service; we were -next marched to the quarter-master's store, and received our uniform and -kit, which consisted of one of each of the following articles, viz., -pair boots, cloth trowsers, summer trowsers, shako, tunic, stock and -clasp, shell-jacket, forage-cap, pair mits, tin blacking, pair braces, -clothes-brush, canteen and cover, knapsack and straps, great coat and -haversack, two shirts, two pair socks, and two towels; for the marking -of which we were charged a halfpenny each. We were next taken to the -tailor's shop, where we had our clothing altered and fitted; this lasted -four or five days, during which time we were exempt from drill; but -instead had to do the duties of orderly men by turns, that is, prepare -the meals for those at drill, and keep the barrack rooms clean and in -proper order. After we got our clothing all right, we then turned out to -drill three times a day, viz., before breakfast, club drill; ten -o'clock, commanding officer's parade, with setting up drill; afternoon, -goose step, extension and balance motions. - -At all these parades and drills we were minutely inspected by the -orderly sergeant, and afterwards by the sergeant major, and if the least -fault was found ordered to parade again, which was called "a dirty -parade." I took particular pains to escape the latter. - -When drill commenced, we were formed into squads of six or eight men -each, in line, at arms-length apart, which is termed a "squad with -intervals;" after drilling in single rank for a week, one squad was -increased to two ranks, at open order, the rear rank covering the -intervals. - -The sergeant major frequently came round to each squad, and finding a -deserving recruit, sent him up to a more advanced squad; in this way the -most intelligent and attentive recruits were advanced. I was lucky in -being one of the first sent up, and I afterwards got sent up step by -step, until I reached the advanced squad, where I learned company's -drill without arms; after which we were served with arms, formed into -squads, taught the manual and platoon exercise, company and battalion -movements, with arms. - -We were then put through a course of ball practice. The distance being -fifty, a hundred, hundred and fifty, and two hundred yards; the "old -Brown Bess" being in use then. The first shot I fired I got a bull's -eye, which was reckoned a first-class shot, and the only one I got -during the practice. After we had finished the course, we were again -inspected, when we acquitted ourselves to the entire satisfaction of the -officers, and were accordingly dismissed from recruits' drill, and -returned fit for duty as soldiers. Two days afterwards the head-quarters -of the regiment arrived from Bombay, marched into barracks, band -playing, colours flying, forming up on the barrack square. The men were -tall and soldier-like, but very much tanned from exposure in the east. -Their strength on arrival was only five hundred. - -We were all delighted to meet the head-quarters, which had been long -expected. They had a long, rough voyage of three months, having come in -a sailing vessel. - -After they had been inspected by the commanding officer, Colonel -Pinnikuck, they were told off and shown to their different barrack-rooms. - -Next day, regimental orders being issued, I heard my name read out -"Private Thomas Faughan posted to the Grenadier or Captain L. C. -Bourchier's company." I was well pleased to hear this, it being the best -company in the regiment. The whole of the recruits were also posted to -the different service companies. - -Being dismissed from recruit's drill, I had ample opportunities of -walking out in the afternoons, and visiting some of the old places -around the city, among which was the cathedral, one of the oldest -ecclesiastical edifices in England. - -It was consecrated by Saint Augustine, A.D. 597. Here, too, he baptized -Ethelbert, King of Kent. Saint Martin's Church under-the-hill, said to -be the oldest in England, is another time-worn structure, partly built -of Roman brick and tiles. There are fourteen such old churches here, -most of them built of rough flint, and very ancient. - -Also the ruins of a Norman Castle, one of the largest in England, which -stands near a mound known as the "Dan John;" connected with this are -beautiful gardens, where the band of our 17th regiment played always on -Thursday afternoon, when hundreds of the élite of the city assembled to -promenade. - -This is one of the pleasantest stations in England for a soldier; there -is no garrison duty to perform, the only duties being the regimental -guards, and they come very seldom; the men getting sixteen nights in bed -between guards. - -Regiments arriving from India are generally stationed here for some -time, in order to recruit after foreign service and the long voyage. - -The citizens are very much attached to soldiers, and treat them with the -greatest kindness and respect. Our regiment was not fortunate enough to -be left here much longer, for a letter of "readiness" was received by -the commanding officer, directing him to hold the regiment ready to -proceed to Dover at the shortest notice, which he made known to us in -regimental orders that evening. After this order was read we were all on -the alert, officers and men preparing for the march, packing officers' -and mess baggage, whitewashing and cleansing barracks—to save barrack -damages, that great curse—ready to hand over to the barrack master. - -Accordingly the route came, which was read as follows, viz.:— - - "REGIMENTAL ORDERS, - BY LIEUT-COLONEL PINNIKUCK. - CANTERBURY BARRACKS, Sept. 20th, 1847. - -Agreeably to a Route received this day from Horse Guards, the Regiment -will parade in heavy marching order, at eight o'clock, A.M., on Tuesday -next, the 24th instant, for the purpose of proceeding to Dover, there to -be stationed till further orders. The men will breakfast at 7 o'clock on -that day. - - By Order, - (Signed), Lieut. CODD, - _Acting Adjutant 17th Regiment_." - -The following morning inspection of kits, at ten o'clock, by the -commanding officer, ordered, and afterwards medical inspection. Next day -being Sunday, the regiment paraded at ten o'clock, for divine service, -when we all marched to church, with the band playing; Protestants and -Roman Catholics going to their different places of worship, no other -denomination being recognised in the regiment. - -The barracks were inspected on Monday morning, by the quarter-master and -captains of companies; the afternoon was occupied in loading the baggage -waggons. - -Tuesday, Sept. 24th, the regiment was on parade, ready to fall in, when -the officers' and non-commissioned officers' call sounded; the latter, -forming in line, were minutely inspected by the adjutant, accompanied by -the sergeant-major, at the same time collecting the reports from the -orderly-sergeants, after which the companies formed on the coverers, -right in front. - -The rolls being called, the captains inspected their companies, that -being finished, the colonel gave the commands, "eyes front, steady, fix -bayonets, shoulder arms, left wheel into line, quick march, halt, -dress." Then the adjutant galloped down the front, collecting the -reports, saluting the colonel as he reported "all correct, Colonel!" -"Form fours, right, quick march;" when the whole stepped off, the band -at the same time striking up "Auld Lang Syne;" marched out of barracks, -down north gate, and up High Street, accompanied by such a crowd of -citizens, that it is easier to imagine than describe. After marching -through the principal streets, the music changed to "The Girl I Left -Behind Me," of the latter there were quite a few followed us outside the -town; when the order was given "unfix bayonets, march at ease." The -latter order being quickly obeyed (for we had quite a load on our backs, -having the whole of our kit in our knapsacks), we were allowed to sing, -chat, and laugh to shorten the journey. After we had got to the half-way -house we halted, piled arms, and were allowed to go into the hotel for -refreshments. When we were well rested and refreshed (thanks to the -landlord, who had everything we needed ready), the march commenced -again, and we accomplished the journey of sixteen miles in eight hours, -in heavy marching order. On arrival in Dover, at four o'clock p.m., the -left wing were stationed at the castle, and right, with head-quarters, -at the heights. - - -[Illustration] - - - - -[Illustration] - -CHAPTER VI. - - ARRIVAL AT DOVER—FIRST GUARD—THE DEAD HOUSE—GHOST—THE HEIGHTS— - SHAFT—FORTIFICATIONS—MARCHING OUT—CHARTIST RIOTS—TRAIN TO - LONDON—DEPARTURE—OSBORNE HOUSE—MAIN DOCK—ROUTE TO CHATHAM— - SIEGE—SHAM FIGHT. - - -On the arrival in barracks, the companies were shown their respective -quarters, when we soon divested ourselves of our knapsacks and -accoutrements; orderly men were told off to draw rations and prepare -supper, while the remainder went to fill their beds with straw at the -barrack stores; cleaning arms and accoutrements occupied the remainder -of the evening. We were exempt from drill the following day, in order to -get our barracks and appointments thoroughly clean after the march. - -It was now getting near my turn for guard, and it being my first, I was -determined to turn out in a soldier-like manner, with my appointments -clean and shining. Accordingly I was detailed for the western redoubt, -which furnishes a sentry over the garrison hospital, that stands on the -middle of a common, on the top of the Western Heights above the -barracks, and a quarter of a mile from any house or habitation. - -After mounting guard I was in the first relief, and my post was at the -hospital; on receiving my orders from the corporal he directed my -attention to the dead house, where, laid out on a table, was a body I -was to keep the rats from gnawing. The corporal having posted me at -eleven o'clock that night, all the ghost stories I had heard in the -"potheen still house" in Leitrim, came up in my mind as flush as when -they were told. While I was thinking, I heard a noise, looked round, and -saw a man dressed in white standing at the door of the dead house. I -tried to challenge, but my tongue was tied. I felt paralyzed. I -scrambled along the walk to the front of the hospital, knocking at the -door, when the sergeant came out and said, "what is the matter, sentry?" -"Oh!" said I, "there's a man, dressed in white, at the 'Dead House.'" - -He went back for an orderly, saying something incoherent, when both went -round to the dead house, and there they found everything as they had -left it. The sergeant called me a fool, and threatened to report me for -leaving my post; this stirred me up, and I walked up and down briskly -the remainder of the two hours which appeared the longest I ever passed -in my life. I said nothing of the occurrence to the men on guard lest -they might laugh at me. - -Our guard being relieved, we were marched to barracks, inspected by the -orderly officer, and dismissed. The sergeant, however, did not report me -as he had threatened; whether he forgot or not I did not try to find -out. The garrison consisted of two batteries royal artillery, one on the -heights, and the other at the castle, a company of sappers and miners, -besides our own regiment. - -The troops had many guards to furnish, consequently the men got only -five nights in bed between duty; besides, fatigue parties were many and -laborious, on account of so much uphill work; the water supplied to the -garrison was brought up from a well over three hundred feet deep, by -means of a wheel which took four men to work, they being relieved every -two hours. - -The heights on which the barracks stand are three hundred and eighty -feet above the level of the sea. A deep perpendicular shaft, containing -about four hundred steps of winding-stairs, leads from town to the -barracks on the heights, which tries the men's wind coming up at tattoo, -and at other times when on fatigue. - -The garrison is well fortified, and comprises "Dover Castle," which -occupies a commanding position on the chalk cliffs, about 380 feet above -the level of the sea, and in the construction of which, Saxons and -Normans displayed no small amount of ingenuity; the Western Heights, -Fort Burgoyne, the south Front Bastion, the Drop Redoubt, the Citadel, -the western outworks, and the north Centre Bastion, with Queen Anne's -Pocket Piece on the Castle heights. The harbour is well sheltered by the -chalk cliffs, which end landwards, in a charming valley leading to what -is known as the "Garden of Kent." During the winter our regiment marched -into the country in heavy marching order twice a week, when we generally -went ten to twelve miles on each occasion, and not unfrequently -encountering a snow or rain storm, returning literally covered with mud, -the roads being so sloppy. These marches, with piquets, fatigues, and -guards, kept us busily employed. About the end of March there was great -excitement in London over the "Chartists," who were expected to break -out in open revolt. The colonel got private notification that most -likely the regiment would be ordered to London. We were therefore -expecting an order to proceed thither to quell the riot which was daily -expected. Our expectations were realized, for on the sixth of April, -1848, we got the route to proceed to London by rail, on the 9th instant, -there to be stationed till further orders. When this order was given, -there was great excitement in barracks preparing for the journey; we had -only two days to pack and get the baggage to the station; however, many -hands made light work, and we had all the baggage down at the station -and everything in readiness on the evening previous to our departure. On -the 9th, we were on parade at seven o'clock, a.m., in heavy marching -order, the companies told off and all reported present, when the colonel -gave the command—"quarter distance column on the grenadiers, quick -march," each captain halting his respective company as it came into its -place. He then addressed the men, urging them when in London to uphold -the credit of their old corps, &c., after which he gave the command "to -the right face," when each captain gave the command to his company, -"quick march," the companies stepping off in succession, each company -wheeling to the left down the shaft. On arriving at the bottom the band -struck up "The British Grenadiers;" we marched to the station -(accompanied by a large concourse of the townspeople), where a special -train was in readiness to convey us to London. As we went on the train -the band played "Auld Lang Syne," and "The Girl I Left Behind Me." One -hour-and-a-half afterwards we were marching four deep with fixed -bayonets, from the Dover and Chatham Station to Millbank Prison. The -streets were so crowded that we had great difficulty in reaching our -destination. On arrival, we were shown into two large rooms, one for -each wing, with a straw mattress on trestles for each man. - -The following morning, April 10th, 1848, an order had arrived from the -Duke of Wellington, Commander-in-Chief, to hold the troops in readiness -to march to Kennington Common, where the Chartists had intended -assembling in large numbers to march through London to the House of -Commons carrying a petition embodying their demands. - -This was to be presented by Fergus O'Connor, one of the members for -Nottingham. - -The Londoners, to the number of a quarter of a million, enrolled -themselves as special constables; the Chartists were not allowed to -march in procession, and the whole affair passed off quietly, without -bloodshed. - -The troops which the Duke had posted ready, when called on, out of -sight, were not required. Our regiment with several others, and a few -troops of cavalry, were under arms the whole day in rear of the prison, -ready to advance at the shortest notice. - -While here we were not allowed to go through the city on account of the -unsettled state of society; we were supplied with beer inside, the -orderly sergeants of companies serving it out in our mess tins. - -The troops which had been concentrated in London, from different parts -of England on this emergency were now ordered to return; some to their -former stations, others to fresh ones; our regiment was ordered to -proceed to Portsmouth. - -The troops had a very smart, soldierly appearance; such a large number -of cavalry and infantry emerging from their different quarters through -the streets, bands playing, quite astonished the citizens as they -marched to their destinations. - -Our march was to the London and South-western Railway Station, where we -took the train at ten o'clock, a.m., for Portsmouth, arriving there at -twelve o'clock, a distance of seventy-five miles in two hours. - -We were marched to Colworth and Clarence barracks, there to be stationed -till further orders. - -General Orders issued soon after our arrival, by Lord Frederick -Fitzclarence, commanding the troops in garrison; the 17th Regiment was -taken on the strength of the garrison, and detailed to furnish the -following duties: main guard, Southsea Castle, Landport Rablin, and the -main and lower dock-yard. The guards with the colours of the regiment -that furnishes the main are trooped every day at ten o'clock on the -Grand Esplanade (Sundays and wet days excepted). I was detailed for the -main guard, which consists of one captain, one subaltern, one sergeant, -two corporals, and twenty-four privates; my post being on the ramparts, -in the rear of the guard-house, where I had a fine view of the harbour, -the roadstead of Spithead, and the Isle of Wight, on the coast of which -the walls of the Royal residence at Osborne House are seen sparkling -among the trees. I had been well broken in to sentry duty by this time, -and was not so easily frightened at my post now, as when I was watching -the corpse at Dover hospital. - -Numbers of nobility and gentry assemble to witness the trooping, and to -see the main guard relieved. The following day, after being relieved, -general field day of the troops in garrison was ordered to assemble on -Southsea Common, under the command of General Fitzclarence. These -reviews were once a week. My next guard was the "main dock," it is also -a captain's guard of great responsibility; sentries are very strict on -their posts, being furnished with "countersign," "number," and "parole," -no person is allowed to pass a post without being able to give them to -the sentry. There are a great many mechanics and labourers employed -here; it is at present two hundred and ninety-three acres in extent—one -of the largest in the country. Of this immense naval establishment, the -most noteworthy, if not the most recent, features are, the mast and rope -houses, hemp stores, rigging-stores, sail-loft, and the dry docks, -spacious enough to admit the largest vessels, and offering every -facility for their speedy repair: of the various building-slips, one of -them, roofed and covered in, is so large that three or four vessels can -be in process of construction at the same time. When Queen Victoria and -Prince Albert opened a new basin in those docks in 1848, our grenadier -company formed a guard of honour to Her Majesty and the Prince. We also -formed a guard of honour on the occasion of Her Majesty and Prince -Albert landing at Gosport the same year, when they inspected our company -and complimented Captain Bourchier on the clean, soldier-like appearance -of his company. I remember Prince Albert perfectly well; he was dressed -in a Field Marshal's uniform, with a broad blue silk sash over his left -shoulder. He was the finest looking man I ever saw—he must have been -six feet four inches in height. The dock-yard also contains the -residence of the superintending officers and a school of naval -architecture. - -This is a very lively town; the public houses are well patronised by -soldiers and sailors; we liked the station very much, although the -guards came often; we bathed once a week on the beach of Southsea -common, which is now a fashionable watering place—a band plays here -once a week in the afternoon. After we were here six months we got the -route to proceed to Chatham, where we arrived on the 18th October, and -were stationed in Chatham barracks. If Portsmouth was a strict garrison, -this is much stricter—there are so many recruits here belonging to -regiments in India. They are formed into what is called a provisional -battalion. We were looked to as an example for the recruits. Here the -dock-yard duty is carried on much the same as at Portsmouth, with a -little more humbugging. - -We were employed here a good deal in preparing for a siege operation at -Saint Mary's Barracks, above Brompton, in building a stockade, and -throwing up earthworks and trenches; in the summer we had a grand -sham-fight, the troops being formed into two armies, one attacking, the -other defending. We were practising for this siege for over two months -previously, carrying scaling ladders and moving round with them to the -ditches of the fortification; it was very fatiguing work. After we were -well practised, and everything in readiness, the grand day came off on -the Queen's birthday, 1849, when over ten thousand people were present, -most of whom came down from London to witness this grand sham-fight. It -came off splendidly, when all returned home well pleased. - - -[Illustration] - - - - -[Illustration] - -CHAPTER VII. - - ROUTE TO CANTERBURY—THE MARCH—ARRIVAL—CHATHAM—DOCKYARD—FURLOUGH - TO LONDON—THAT GREAT CITY—JOIN MY COMPANY—SHEERNESS—THE DOCKYARD— - GET MARRIED—ROUTE TO WEEDON—ROUTE TO IRELAND. - - -A few days afterwards we got the route for Canterbury. On June 2nd we -marched from Chatham up High Street, with the band playing at the head -of the regiment. We were accompanied by a large crowd of the townspeople -outside the town, who gave us three cheers on parting; we marched ten -miles that day, and were billeted in the pretty little village of -Greenstreet where the people treated us with the greatest kindness and -regard. - -Resuming the march at seven o'clock the following morning, we arrived at -Canterbury at twelve, where we were met by several of our old -acquaintances, who were pleased to see us back again, and accompanied us -to the barracks. During our stay here of three months we had easy times, -getting sixteen nights in bed, hardly any fatigues, but plenty of drill. -On the 5th September, 1849, we marched back again to Chatham, arriving -there at 5 p.m. on the 6th, after two days hard marching with a full kit -weighing fifty pounds. The march tired many of our men, the weather -being very sultry and the roads dusty. - -The fortified lines around Chatham are the frequent scenes of military -siege-operations, miniature battles, and grand reviews. - -In a military point of view the lines of detached forts connecting -constitute a fortification of great strength, and the whole is regarded -as a perfect flank defence for London in the event of an invader seeking -to attack the capital from the south coast; the place is also defended -by some strong forts on the Medway. - -Near Chatham is Fort Pitt, a military hospital and strong fort, barracks -for infantry, marines, artillery and engineers, a park of artillery and -magazines, storehouse and depôt on a large scale. In a naval sense, it -is one of the principal royal shipbuilding establishments in Great -Britain, and a visit to it never fails to impress the stranger with a -sense of the naval power of the country. The dock-yard is nearly two -miles in length, containing several building-slips and wet docks -sufficiently capacious for the largest ships, and the whole is traversed -in every direction by a tramway for locomotives. There are on an -average, 3,500 shipwrights, caulkers, joiners, sawyers, mill-wrights, -sail-makers, rope-makers, riggers and labourers, with 5,000 soldiers, -sailors and marines, making it lively for public-houses and saloons, -which are always crowded with soldiers and sailors in the evenings. - -About the middle of December, I applied to the captain of my company for -a furlough; having no offence against me since joining, he had no -trouble in getting it granted. I had saved most of my pay since I -joined, and now had sufficient funds, with the amount allowed me from -the captain in advance, to bear my expenses during my absence from the -regiment; and as all my near relatives in Leitrim were either dead or -had emigrated to America, I had no particular place to spend my -furlough, and being stationed so near London, I made up my mind to visit -that great city, and avail myself of the opportunity of visiting once -more at my leisure some of the principal places of note and amusement. -My furlough was dated from 16th December, and expired 16th January. I -left the Sun Pier at Chatham, by a penny steamboat to Stroud Station, -thence by rail to Gravesend, and boat to Blackwall; from there by rail -to Fenchurch, where I took an omnibus to Cambden-Hill-Villa, Kensington, -where I stayed on invitation with a friend during my sojourn in London. -During my ride through the city on the outside of the omnibus, I had a -splendid view of the perfect labyrinth of streets and squares, -warehouses and stores, churches and palaces, which I strongly recommend -all strangers in London to see. Here I am riding through the vast -metropolis of England, where nearly four millions of people of all -classes, grades, and conditions, find a home; a city that covers eighty -thousand acres of ground; where is consumed fifty-five million gallons -of beer and porter, with three million gallons of ardent spirits, -annually poured out to satisfy unnatural and voracious appetites. It -takes thirty thousand tailors to make their clothes, forty thousand -shoemakers to take care of their feet, and fifty thousand milliners and -dressmakers to attend to the ladies' dresses; here an army of -twenty-five thousand servants are daily employed, and the smoke of the -coal-fires darkens the country for more than twenty miles around. The -splendour of the magnificent buildings and shops, carriages, cabs, -omnibuses, and vehicles of every description, with crowds of -pedestrians, impressed me with surprise beyond my powers of description. -I got off at Silver Street after paying the conductor six-pence for my -fare, and walked to my friend's house, where I was received in a most -cordial manner. During my stay in London I visited many of the principal -places of interest in the city, among which were the following, viz.: -St. James' Palace, an irregular cluster of buildings used for court -purposes, but not as the Queen's residence; Buckingham Palace, the -Queen's London residence, a large quadrangular building; Marlborough -House, now the residence of the Prince of Wales; Kensington Palace and -Gardens; Houses of Parliament, a vast structure which has cost -£3,000,000, perhaps the finest building in the world applied to national -purposes—the river front is 900 feet long; Westminster Hall, a noble -old structure, of which the main hall is 290 feet by 68, and -110 feet high; the Horse Guards, the official residence of the -Commander-in-Chief, with an arched entrance to St. James' Park, where -under the arches on each side are two noble specimens of mounted -sentries; the National Gallery devoted to a portion of the nation's -pictures, in Trafalgar Square; South Kensington Museum; the Guards -Barracks, Chelsea; the General Post Office, which has a hall 80 feet by -60, and 53 high, with a vast number of offices all around it. - -[Illustration: THE THAMES EMBANKMENT.] - -Of public columns and statues the chief which interested me and took my -attention were the following:—Nelson's Column, Trafalgar Square; and -York Column, Waterloo Steps.[1] - -Of the public parks in the Metropolis, the most important are Hyde Park, -St. James' Park, the Green Park, Regent's Park, Victoria Park, -Kensington Park—all belong to the nation, and are, of course, out of -the builders' hands. They are most valuable as "lungs" and breathing -places for great London. - -The Zoological Gardens, Horticultural Gardens, and Botanic Gardens are -beautiful places, belonging to private societies. Of places of -amusements, there are three opera houses, about thirty theatres, twelve -music halls and concert rooms of large dimensions (including Albert -Hall), a much larger number of smaller size, and very numerous -exhibition rooms of various kinds, including Madame Tussaud's exhibition -of wax figures, in Baker Street; these greatly interested and amused me. - -I must not forget my leave is nearly up; my furlough expires to-morrow -night at tattoo. Also, I am sorry I cannot stay longer, time seems so -short and flies so fast in this great city, but as a soldier I must -never forget my duty. - -After bidding my friend good-bye, and thanking him kindly for his -generous hospitality, I started back to join my regiment at Chatham, by -the same route I had come, arriving in barracks at tattoo, January 16th, -and duly reporting myself. - -Whilst I had been on leave, my company (the grenadiers) were under -orders for detachment at Sheerness. Accordingly we embarked at the Sun -Pier, and proceeded down the Medway, by steamer, on the 8th February, -arriving at our destination at two p.m., commanded by Captain L. G. -Bourchier, and were stationed in the same barracks as the 72nd -Highlanders, whose pipers kept playing and droning from reveillé till -tattoo. This is also another of England's Royal ship-building -establishments; there are nearly two thousand artisans and labourers -employed daily in the dockyard. The streets, public houses, and concert -rooms are continually, unfortunately, crowded with sailors, soldiers, -marines, and dockyard hands, every evening; and not unfrequently a -bar-room row takes place between the soldiers and sailors; on one -occasion I saw two of our tallest and ablest grenadiers peel off their -coats and clean out a whole tap-room of sailors, and that with their -English fists. - -On our last visit to Canterbury, what did I do but, like an Irishman, -fall in love. I made the acquaintance of a Kentish beauty and promised -to marry her, with the understanding that I got the commanding officer's -sanction in order to carry out this promise, after our company had been -here about a month, I applied to the colonel, of course through the -captain of my company, for leave to get married, which was granted, -through the strong recommendation and influence of my captain; for my -readers must know that it is only a very small proportion of soldiers -(six to each company), and those only of the best character and highly -recommended, can get leave to marry; or if they marry without leave, -they have no claim to participate in any of the advantages and -privileges attached to the soldier who marries with leave—such as -quarters in barracks and on foreign stations, "rations." Having received -the commanding officer's permission, I was married, on the 3rd of April, -1850, at Minster, in the Isle of Sheppy, Kent. My wife then was placed -on the strength of the regiment from that date. Now my happiness was -complete. I was struck out of the barrack-room messing, and my wife and -I became truly happy together. Instead of walking down the town with my -comrades, I walked out with my wife in the evening on the ramparts in -the rear of our quarters, and gazed in wonder at the massive -fortifications and guns which encircled our barracks. Here we could hear -the soft strains of exquisite music from the various military bands of -marines, or the regiments in garrison, or, more frequently, the pipers -of the 72nd Highlanders, or the sound of the evening gun re-echo over -the surface of the waters from the flag-ship which rode so majestically -at anchor in the distant roadsteads, with the sun sinking into an ocean -of fire, and the white sails of the fishing smacks glistening in the -setting sun. We had been for some time fearing to be relieved from this -delightful station; at length the long expected order came. The rumours -which had been for some time gathering strength as to our destination -were discovered to have had a better foundation than many which in -general floated indefinitely about our barracks, on the subject of which -no one ever could discover their origin, for, you must know, soldiers -are great gossipers. - -Our orders are for Weedon, a small town in Northamptonshire, on the -River Nene. In three days we were to embark on board a steamer for -London, thence by rail. We were all rather sorry for leaving the present -station, although soldiers always like fresh scenery, and always play, -when they leave, "The Girl I left Behind Me." - -We embarked on the 18th of May, accompanied by the band, pipes, and -several men, of the 72nd Highlanders to the wharf, the band playing -"Auld Lang Syne" as our steamer moved off from the dock, the men -cheering and waving their handkerchiefs, which we responded to in a most -friendly manner. We were all very happy, though we were rather closely -packed together—a circumstance generally considered dangerous to a good -fellowship. The vessel was a small one, and being of rather ancient -build did not boast all those conveniences that the new steamers -possess. The voyage was a short one; the river being very smooth; the -trip was pleasant, although it was somewhat inconvenient for the women -and children, who were huddled up very close together. We were lucky -that the weather was so fine, therefore we had not the unpleasantness of -sea sickness. - -As we neared London, steamers and vessels of nearly every size became -more numerous; and the buzz of industry from the shore, with the -whistling of small steamers, the splashing of wheels, the clouds of -smoke, impressed us with the wondrous amount of traffic carried on -through this mighty highway of commerce. - -We reached Blackwall at one o'clock, and marched to Euston Station, the -women and children being sent in cabs, where we took the train at three -p.m., arriving at Weedon at 5 p.m., marched into barracks and joined -head-quarters which had been there before us. About this time Colonel -Styte got command of the regiment, an old Waterloo officer of great -skill in military details. The Town of Weedon, which is situated in the -centre of a wide and rich valley in one of the most beautiful counties -in England, was declared by all our soldiers, without one dissentient -voice, to be an exceedingly dull, stupid place. Not having much duty to -perform in this quiet garrison, we were kept continually at drill; in -the evenings the men had nothing to occupy their spare time except to -assemble in the public houses or canteen, and on Sunday, after church, -to walk out of town to a certain country tavern where they unfortunately -used to indulge in drinking and carousing. In the days in which I write, -those who entertained the idea of educating soldiers were laughed at as -visionary enthusiasts, whose schemes, if put into practice, would -entirely ruin and destroy the military spirit of the army; and few there -were among the commanding officers of regiments who possessed moral -courage enough to combat the general opinion, even if they differed from -the principle. Colonel Styte, however, the lieutenant-colonel of the -17th regiment of "Royal Tigers," was happily endowed with moral courage -in equal degree with his gallantry in the field, which secured for him -his present high position, and an honesty of mind and purpose he -possessed that was not usual with officers of his time. He had received -a wound at the Battle of Waterloo in his right arm, which entirely -disabled it, and it hung down by his side quite powerless. Not being -able to draw his sword, we had great sympathy for him, which he -appreciated very much. He had established an evening school for the -drummer boys of the regiment, and for such of the non-commissioned -officers and privates as chose to avail themselves of its advantage. The -colonel and a few of his brother officers raised a subscription in order -to provide the necessary books, and a school was established and well -attended, with most excellent results—valued by many of the best -disposed non-commissioned officers and men, and worked exceedingly well. -Regarding the drummer boys, their attendance was compulsory. The teacher -was a very gentlemanly, able man, and imparted his instructions in a -very painstaking manner, which caused many of the young soldiers to -attend his school willingly, and try to advance themselves by his -instructions. - -Nothing in the regiment gave me more pleasure than attending, and the -progress I made during our term served to advance my prospects of -promotion in after years, which I most gratefully remember. - -We were stationed in this quiet town for three months when we got orders -to proceed to Castlebar, a town in the west of Ireland, and about one -hundred and sixty miles from Dublin. - -[1] The Albert Memorial, Hyde Park, has been erected since. - - -[Illustration] - - - - -[Illustration] - -CHAPTER VIII. - - LIVERPOOL—EMBARK FOR DUBLIN—THE VOYAGE—ARRIVAL—MARCH—THE - TRAIN—THE MARCH TO CASTLEBAR—ARRIVAL—ELECTION—ROUTE TO GALWAY. - - -May 9th, 1850.—The regiment was formed on the barrack square, right in -front, marched to the railway station, the band playing at the head of -the regiment, accompanied by a large number of the townspeople, with -whom we were popular, and who gave us three hearty cheers as the train -moved from the station at 10 o'clock a.m. During the journey the train -stopped sufficiently long enough at different stations to enable us to -partake of refreshments. - -Arriving in Liverpool at 4.30, formed up at the station and marched -through the main street down to the docks, with fixed bayonets, the band -playing "British Grenadiers," where we embarked at 5.30 p.m. At six -o'clock the steamer moved off slowly from the dock, the band playing -"Come back to Erin" when we were cheered by the crowd from the quay. - -We had a remarkable fine passage, although the boat rolled and pitched a -good deal with the long swell from south-west, and we suffered but -little discomfort beyond what invariably attends 900 men, 40 women and -children who are imprisoned for the time being, with the fear of being -drowned. Several of the women and children were sea-sick; but as for the -men, their will conquered their stomach, and they were not sick, -although many of them looked very pale and squeamish. Hoping to enter -port in the morning, I was early on deck; we were already in sight of -land; on the right the long low line of the Irish coast was visible -scarcely raised above the level of the sea. Not far ahead the outline -and prominent feature of the Hill of Howth stood out before us on the -right with its light-house; my heart beat high with joy as my eye caught -the first glimpse of the land of my birth, "my own native land." - -The city, that at first looked like a white line on the coast, began -apparently to lift itself upwards and assume definite form and shape, -the houses and spires standing out more distinctly. On the left we saw -Kingston, with the grand Wicklow mountains in the background completing -the picture,—indeed the Bay of Kingston is said to be one of the most -beautiful in the world. Now we pass the lighthouse on the left, which -stands at the end of a long pier at the entrance of the bay, close to -the Pigeon House, where there are strong fortifications. We are moving -up slowly among the shipping, arriving at the north-wall at six o'clock -a.m. The order was given to disembark immediately, when huge swarms of -red coats assembled on deck, buzzed and bustled about, actively -preparing to disembark in good order, and fall in by companies on the -quay. On the bugle sounding the whole fell in, and were inspected by the -Colonel. All being correct, we marched off by fours with fixed bayonets -and band playing, along the Liffy to the Western Railway station, -"Broadstone," accompanied by an immense crowd of spectators. We took the -train at eight o'clock for Mullingar, arriving there at ten—sixty miles -in two hours—and were billeted on the taverns and public houses. -Previous to being dismissed we were formed up at quarter distance -column, in front of the principal hotel, Mr. Murray's, where the Colonel -stayed, when he charged the men to conduct themselves in their billets -in a soldierlike manner, and never bring discredit on the corps through -their misconduct among the inhabitants; non-commissioned officers were -ordered especially to look after the men's interests, and call the roll -at tattoo: he at the same time ordered parade with arms and -accoutrements at five o'clock p.m., after which the men were marched to -their different billets by their respective non-commissioned officers, -where we were received with "ceade-mille-failtha" by the landlords, who -had dinner ready for us in right Irish fashion, according to -instructions received from the "Billet-master." After dinner we were -employed in getting our appointments clean and ready for parade. At the -appointed time the regiment paraded at the former place, rolls called, -and companies inspected by their respective captains. During the parade, -the bands "discoursed sweet music" in front of the hotel. After the -reports were collected, and all reported present by the Adjutant, the -Colonel gave the command, "fix bayonets, shoulder arms, left wheel into -line, quick march, halt, dress," the Major giving the word "steady," -when the line was dressed; after which the Colonel opened the ranks and -inspected the whole line (the band playing during the inspection), -breaking into open column right in front, and then dismissed. - -A large crowd of town and country people were looking on in amazement; -one would have thought they never saw a regiment on parade before, their -admiration was so great. - -After going to our billets, the men dressed for the evening in their -shell-jackets, forage-caps, and waist-belts, cane in hand, and were soon -scattered in all directions among the civilians, who soon made their -acquaintance, and pledged their fellowship with creature comforts in the -public houses. - -"Reveillé" sounded at five o'clock, when we were on the alert, got -breakfast at six, and were on parade at seven. After the companies were -inspected, the Colonel again addressed them, telling the men the -consequence and penalty of getting drunk on the line of march; after -which he sent off the advanced guard, and told off the rear and baggage -guards. The women, with their children, that could not afford a -side-car, had to ride on the baggage waggon. After these preliminary -arrangements were made, we marched off, the band playing "Patrick's -Day;" the people gave three cheers on parting. After we got well out of -town, we were allowed to march at ease, talk, smoke, and sing. We were -quite fresh on starting, but after we had accomplished about five or six -miles we began to feel the weight of a full kit, arms, accoutrements, -haversack and sixty rounds of ammunition in our pouches, with a thick, -stiff leather stock, and coatee buttoned up tight around our neck, with -a heavy shacko. The weather being warm and roads dusty, we began to get -somewhat tired and thirsty. We were halted close to a small village, -where we procured some buttermilk from the peasants, who gave it -willingly. I went into a house and asked for a drink of water, when the -old woman brought me a large noggin of buttermilk, saying, "Dhrink this -acushla, it's bether nar cauld wather for ye on the road." I offered her -some coppers, but she refused, saying, "No, I thank you, sur; do you -think I would take pay from a poor sojer for a drop o' buttermilk? the -sorrow bit thin; I wish it was bether, it's myself that would give it -ye." - -After getting refreshed we started on again; we had nine miles more to -march before we got to Ballymore, where we were to be billeted for the -night; we had frequent halts for a few moments at a time, during the -remaining nine miles, when the people brought us noggins of buttermilk. -As we resumed the march, the band struck up "Patrick's Day," which well -repaid the people for the buttermilk, and several of them accompanied us -for miles along the road. - -Arrived at Ballymore at two o'clock, when we were told off to our -respective billets. This is a very wretched small town, with only three -public houses; most of the men were billeted in private houses, the poor -people were hard pressed to find room for us, but we were tired and not -very particular, as long as we got some place to stretch ourselves. -After arriving at our billets, dinner, such as they had, was ready for -us; tea and coffee there was none, but instead there was an abundance of -bacon, cabbage, and potatoes, which we washed down with plenty of new -milk. After satisfying the cravings of the inner man with these -substantials, we felt we should like to try a drop of good Irish -whiskey, made up a subscription and sent our host out for the "crater." -After partaking of this luxury, so long unknown, in which the landlord -joined in a sociable manner, we turned out for parade, when we were -inspected by captains of companies and dismissed. - -We had supper at six, oat-cakes, potato-cakes, and new milk, and soon -after we were in the land of dreams, well tired from our march. Reveillé -was sounded at five next morning, arousing the hitherto quiet village, -when we were all on the alert; got breakfast of bacon, eggs, potatoes -and milk, falling in for parade at seven, marching off with the band -playing "Patrick's Day," which caused the people to shout and cheer. -After a long march of sixteen miles we reached Athlone at two o'clock, -dismissed to our billets, where dinner was ready according to -instructions received in advance. - -My wife fared much better to-day than yesterday. I had procured for her -a seat on a side-car with the hospital serjeant's wife, by paying half -the expense of the car. This is a good sized town, large barracks and -strongly-fortified, on the Shannon, dividing Leinster from Connaught. We -fared well here and got good billets. To-morrow will be Sunday; we will -halt. We were allowed to indulge in a good sleep on Sunday morning, -nothing to do before ten o'clock, only to get breakfast of ham and eggs; -church parade in front of O'Rourk's hotel, where we were inspected and -marched off to our different places of worship, the band playing, -causing great crowds of people to assemble and accompany us to church. -After dinner the men walked out in full dress; there were crowds of -people and plenty of whiskey drunk during the day and night; great -excitement to see so many soldiers in the town. At tattoo that night one -corporal and six privates were confined, the corporal for being drunk, -and the privates for minor offences. In the morning the six privates -were reprimanded, and the corporal sent back for a court-martial on -arrival at Castlebar. - -We were on the march at seven o'clock, the band playing Patrick's Day -and Garry Owen, as we marched out of town, cheered by the crowd. We were -in good spirits, for every fellow had a parting glass with the landlord -before parting, besides we were getting accustomed to the march. After a -march of fifteen miles we arrived in Castleblakeney at two o'clock. This -is a small town like Ballymore. During the march to Castlebar, we always -started at seven every morning, and paraded at five every evening for -inspection. - -Next day at two o'clock, we reached Tuam, a fine town, where Archbishop -McHale and Bishop Plunket reside, where we were billeted that night, -marching as usual in the morning: next night at Holymount, arriving at -Castlebar on Thursday, the 18th May, 1850, where we were to be stationed -till further orders, accomplishing a journey of about one hundred miles -in seven days. On arriving we were shown our quarters; bed filling at -the barrack stores, and cleaning our appointments after the long march, -occupied the remainder of the day. - -The following day commanding officer's parade in heavy marching order at -ten a.m., when we were minutely inspected and dismissed. We had good -barrack accommodation and easy duty, the men getting ten nights in bed -between guards. After we had been here a few days, we became aware of -the fact that a contested election for a member of parliament was to -take place in about three weeks, and we found great excitement among the -people; the committee of each candidate were holding meetings and -canvassing for their party; many rows took place between them, the -public houses were continually crowded, police were brought here from -distant stations, and, as the day of polling drew near, the excitement -increased. On the day of voting two troops of cavalry arrived, and we -were under orders to turn out at a moment's notice. On the morning of -the election, the grenadiers and light company were drawn up in line on -each side of the square fronting the court-house, with the two troops of -cavalry. The voting commenced at ten o'clock; the police were all formed -ready to pass the voters in and keep the crowd back, the voters were -brought in from the country on sidecars, guarded from the mob by a -policeman on each side of the car. - -The people were very roughly used at first by the police, which raised -their wrath, when they rushed with immense force on the police and -thoroughly defeated them, forcing them to retreat to the lines of the -military for protection. Having effected this object the crowd retained -their position, but did not attempt to assault the soldiers, though -their shouts of defiance to the police rose loud and long. The police -were ordered to advance again and seize the ringleaders; they obeyed -very reluctantly, but being assaulted with sticks and stones their -individual courage was excited, and they rushed to chastise the mob, who -again drove them back in greater disorder than before, and a nearer -approach to the soldiers was made by the crowd in the scuffle which -ensued. The police were again ordered to charge the mob, when a more -serious scrimmage arose, sticks and stones were used with more effect, -and the parties being nearer to each other, the missiles intended only -for the police overshot their mark and struck some of the soldiers, who -bore their painful position with admirable fortitude, although their -patience was sorely tried to stand a target for the mob, but a soldier's -duty is to obey orders in whatever shape they come from his officers, -and therefore they had to put up with rough usage. The mob were now -furious and the magistrate had to read the Riot Act before the soldiers -could attempt to quell the disturbance; at last the military were -ordered to fire, the captain giving the command, "with ball cartridge, -load, ready, present, fire," the men were previously cautioned in an -under tone of voice to fire over the people's heads. - -This had the desired effect; the crowd dissolved as the muskets were -brought to the present, after which they gave three cheers for the -soldiers and down with the "peelers." - -This act brought the soldiers into high esteem with the populace. The -business of the interior was now suspended for a time by the sounds of -fierce tumults, which arose after the soldiers had discharged the -volley; some rushed from the court-house to the platform, and beheld the -mob in a state of great excitement. A popular candidate now stood -forward on the platform and was greeted with fresh cheers. He waited -till the uproarious cheering died away, and then addressed them in a few -words touching their nationality and the honour of their country. - -After which the crowd gave him three hearty cheers, and quiet was -restored, when the troops were marched into barracks, but kept in -readiness should another row commence; but happily all were peaceable -afterwards, although much excitement with plenty of whiskey continued -for several days after, in which several of the soldiers joined. - -After the election, our men were highly respected by the inhabitants; -the old women brought the men bottles of "potheen whiskey" in their milk -cans. The sergeant on the gate not suspecting any smuggling, saw nothing -but milk in the can—but if he had searched the can he would have found -a black bottle of the real "mountain dew" at the bottom. - -After being stationed here three months we got the route for Galway, a -town situated at the mouth of Lough Corrib; it is the west terminus of -the Midland Great Western Railway, and 117 miles west of Dublin. - - -[Illustration] - - - - -[Illustration] - -CHAPTER IX. - - THE MARCH—GALWAY—CAPTAIN BOURCHIER—DETACHMENT—REGATTA—ROW WITH - THE POLICE—ROUTE TO GALWAY—MAJOR BOURCHIER EXCHANGES—CAPTAIN - CROKER—CLADDAGH—ATTEND A CAMP MEETING—THE CITY OF GALWAY— - THEATRE—ROUTE TO DUBLIN. - - -August 26th, 1850, at 7 a.m., we marched out of Castlebar; the -townspeople accompanied us for some distance and gave us three hearty -cheers on parting. We marched sixteen miles that day, and were billeted -at Holymount. Previous to this, Captain Bourchier had applied for leave -of absence for three months, which reached him here, when he started for -England after bidding the company good-bye, and handing it over to -Lieutenant Coulthurst. We all suspected that he was going to be married -during his absence, which proved to be a fact, for on his return to the -regiment in November he brought his wife with him. - -Next morning we were on the march again, and after fifteen miles, -arrived at Tuam, where we were billeted for the night, arriving in -Galway at two o'clock p.m. the following day, after a tiresome march of -eighteen miles. The grenadiers and light company, with four others, were -stationed at the Shamble Barracks, and four companies at the Castle. -Most of the officers stayed at Mackilroy's Hotel, in the Market Square -or "Green," as it was called, where they remained until their quarters -were ready for their reception. After our arrival, we all turned out to -fill our beds with straw at the barrack store as usual. Duty here was -easy, having only three guards to furnish, which consisted of two -sergeants, three corporals, and twenty-four privates daily, but we were -kept continually at drill, either commanding officer's, adjutant's, or -sergeant-major's. The only time we had to call our own was from supper -till tattoo. - -During Captain Bourchier's absence from the regiment he had been -promoted to Brevet Major, and on his return about the thirtieth of -November, he brought a beautiful bride back with him to share his -military honours. He rented a comfortable house in one of the -aristocratic terraces of Salt Hill Road, in the suburbs of the town. At -Christmas he treated the company to a good dinner and a barrel of ale to -wash it down, when we drank towards his and his lady's health and -happiness, and wished them many returns of the season. - -On the 30th January, 1851, I had an increase in my family, for a boy was -born to me. We had him christened Thomas Henry, Thomas after my father, -and Henry after my wife's father. - -Our company was under orders for detachment at Banagher, a small -fortified garrison town on the River Shannon, and thirty miles south of -Galway. - -May 1st, 1851, our company was formed on the barrack square, inspected -by the Colonel, and after a few words of fatherly advice from him, we -marched up High Street, accompanied outside the town by the band, -playing Irish airs. We had thirty miles to march, which we accomplished -in two days. We marched through Oranmore, Athenry, and were billeted in -Ballinasloe one night, passing through Eyrecourt, arriving in Banagher -next day at three p.m. These barracks are sufficient to accommodate -about one hundred and fifty men, situated within a fortification which -commands a bridge that spans the Shannon, and connects King's County -with the County Galway. This part of the country is celebrated for -fishing, shooting, and boating, and Portumna Lake, about fourteen miles -from here, is famous for regattas, which our three officers, viz., Major -Bourchier, Lieutenant Coulthurst and Ensign Williams, availed themselves -of during our time of duty at this station. They purchased a yacht, a -four-oar gig, and a duck boat, from their predecessors. They also hired -one Jack, the boatsman, to take care of the yacht and boats, and -accompany them when required. They frequently took a man or two of the -company with them when on sailing excursions to work the yacht, which we -enjoyed very much. - -The Major, Ensign Williams, "Jack," and myself, went to a regatta at -Portumna, a distance of fourteen miles, in the four-oared gig; we rowed -down the river very fast, arriving there at twelve o'clock, in time for -the first race. The officers were invited on board one of the -gentlemen's yachts, which was to sail in the match, "Jack and I" were -left in charge of the gig. After the race the officers returned at nine -o'clock, p.m., when we started to row back to barracks; after we got -eight miles, we came to a lock which was open as we passed through going -down in the morning, but now it was shut, and we had no alternative but -carry our boat to the other side of the lock. This being done, we took a -drink of "potteen" which we had in the boat to cheer us up. After -refreshing ourselves we started again with renewed vigour. In going down -in the morning we thought nothing of rowing fourteen miles with the -stream, but now going back against it was quite a different affair, the -stream ran so very swift, and we had hard work to make headway against -it. However, with good pluck and a drop out of the bottle of "potteen," -now and then, we braved the stream and reached barracks at two o'clock -in the morning. Scarcely a day passed without a boating, fishing, or -shooting excursion of some kind. This makes it a very pleasant station, -and besides, the town has a clean, neat and tidy appearance, compared -with some towns we have seen in Ireland, and can boast of one decent -hotel, "Mann's Hotel," besides several public houses with skittle alleys -attached, which places of amusement several of our men patronized. Two -of the company had an altercation with two or three of the police at one -of these places, when the latter tried to take the two soldiers to the -police station; this the soldiers objected to, whereupon a row ensued, -then several more police joined and were forcing the soldiers off, when -their comrades in barracks, having been warned of the row by some -person, rushed out of barracks with naked bayonets in hand, rescued the -two soldiers and beat the police, driving the whole force out of the -town and chasing them through the country, where they skedaddled and hid -in the potato fields. Several of the police got hurt, but not very -seriously. Our company and the police never could agree after that row, -but they never again attempted to take any of our men to the -station-house. About a month after the row with the police, we got -relieved by No. 6 company from head-quarters. - -On the 27th October we marched out of barracks at two o'clock, p.m., as -the relieving company marched in. After a march of sixteen miles we -arrived in Ballinasloe at seven o'clock in the evening, where we were -billeted for the night. The railway, which was in course of construction -as we passed here _en route_ to Banaghar, being now finished and the -train running on it, we took the train at eleven o'clock, a.m., arriving -at Galway Station at twelve, where we were met by the band, which -marched at the head of the company down Main Street, playing the -"British Grenadiers" as we marched into the Shamble Barracks. One month -after this, Major Bourchier had exchanged to the 54th Regiment, which -was in the East Indies. The night previous to his departure his brother -officers of the regiment entertained him as their guest at the mess, -where they all expressed deep sorrow at his leaving, and his loss to the -regiment. After bidding the men good-bye, he left for India, taking with -him the best wishes and prayers for his future welfare, especially of -his own company, the grenadiers, to whom he had ever been a father -during his command. Many of the men accompanied him to the railway -station to see him off; need I say we lost a friend. - -Captain John Croker, a Limerick man, not only the tallest officer in the -regiment (height 6 feet 4 ins.) but now the senior captain, who formerly -belonged to No. 8 company, now got command of the grenadiers, vice -Captain Bourchier promoted. Galway has a population of about 25,000; the -old town is poorly built and irregular, and some of its old houses have -the Spanish architecture, easily accounted for by the great intercourse -which at one time subsisted between Galway and Spain. The new town -consists of well planned and spacious streets, built on a rising ground -which slopes gradually towards the harbour; its suburbs are very -wretched—collections of wretched cabins—inhabited by a poor class of -people; one of these suburbs called the Claddagh is inhabited by -fishermen who exclude all strangers and live perfectly amongst -themselves, electing their king, etc., and ever marrying within their -own circle. These fishermen still speak the grand old Celtic language, -and the old Irish costume is still worn by the women—open gowns and red -petticoats. - -They annually elect a mayor, whose functions are to administer the laws -of their fishery, and to superintend all internal regulations. One of -these fishermen's sons took a great liking to the soldiers, and -frequently came into the barracks to see us at drill. He was about 6 -feet 4 ins. in height, and a powerfully built young man of eighteen -years old. He applied to the sergeant-major to enlist. He took him -before the Colonel who approved of him when he was enlisted in the 17th -Regiment; his name was Paddy Belton. His father came and tried to get -him off, but it was no use, he had his mind made up, and wished to be a -soldier. After getting his uniform on, he invited a comrade and myself, -to a "camp" in his village, which is a contest of skill, or competition -for priority—a display of female powers at the spinning of yarn. It is -indeed a cheerful meeting of the bright fair girls; and although strong -and desperate rivalry is the order of the day, it is conducted in a -spirit so light-hearted and friendly that I scarcely know a more -interesting or delightful amusement in a country life. When a "camp" is -about to be held the affair soon becomes known in the neighbourhood; -sometimes young women are asked, but in most instances so eager are they -to attend that invitations are unnecessary; in winter time and in -mountain districts, it is often as picturesque as pleasant. - -The young women usually begin to assemble at four o'clock in the -morning; and as they always go in groups, accompanied besides by their -sweethearts, or some male relative, each of the latter bearing a large -torch of well dried bog-deal, their voices, songs and laughter break -upon the stillness of the morning with a holiday feeling, made five -times more delightful by the darkness of the hour. The spinning wheels -are carried by the young men, amidst an agreeable volley of repartee. -From the moment they arrive the mirth is fast and furious, nothing is -heard but laughter, conversation, songs, and anecdotes, all in a loud -key; among the loud humming of spinning wheels, and the noise of reels, -as they incessantly crack the cuts in the hands of the reelers who are -perpetually turning them from morning till night, in order to ascertain -the quantity which every competitor has spun; and whoever has spun the -most wins the "camp," and is queen for the night. At the conclusion of -the "camp," we all repaired to a supper of new milk and flummery, which -was most delicious. This agreeable meal being over, we repaired to the -dancing-room, where Mickey Gaffey, the piper, was installed in his own -peculiar arm-chair of old Irish oak; a shebeen man, named Barney O'Shea, -had brought a large jar of potteen to cheer the boys' hearts for the -occasion, of which they freely partook, when the dancing commenced. It -is not my intention to enter into a detailed account of the dancing, nor -of the good humour which pervaded amongst them; it is enough to say that -the old people performed cotillons, and the young folks jigs, reels, and -country dances; hornpipes were performed upon doors (the floor being of -earth) with the greatest skill. My comrade and myself enjoyed the dance, -which was kept up all night, taking a drop of potteen between the -dances, to keep our spirits up by pouring spirits down. Our leave was up -at six o'clock in the morning, and we had to report ourselves not later -than that hour to the sergeant of the quarter guard, so we left the -dance at four o'clock, got to barracks before six, gave in our passes to -the sergeant, and were just in time for morning drill, when we drilled -till a quarter to eight o'clock, I can assure you with aching heads -after the potteen. - -The principal buildings in Galway are, the Queen's College, which was -just opened a year before our arrival there; among the other edifices -are three monasteries and five nunneries, Smith's College, the -court-house and barracks, with the grand old Church of St. Nicholas. It -has numerous flour, and other mills, also breweries, and distilleries. -Extensive salmon and sea fishing are carried on here. - -The bay is a large expanse of water about eighteen miles broad at its -seaward extremity, diminishing to about eight miles inland, and being -about twenty miles long. It is protected from the swell of the Atlantic -by the Arran Isles. South-west from Galway to the sea is the district -called Connemara, which contains vast bogs, moors, loughs and marshes, -which present a bleak and dreary aspect. Galway abounds in ancient -remains of Celtic as well as of the Norman period; cromlech and monastic -ruins are found in several parts of the county. - -A very fine specimen of this class is that of Knockmoy, near Tuam, -besides several round towers. The officers amused themselves both -fishing and shooting when off duty; they frequently could be seen with -rod and line landing a large sized salmon, on the banks of the river, -and another officer coming into the barracks in the evening with his dog -and gun, with his bag well filled with game after his day's sport. - -Besides these enjoyments they organized an amateur dramatic company, -with Lieutenant Lindsay, Lieutenant Coulthurst and Ensign Williams at -its head, with the band and a few smart non-commissioned officers and -privates; which was well patronised by the officers and their ladies, -besides several of the nobility and gentry of the town and any of the -soldiers who wished to attend. This brought round the best of feeling -between the regiment and inhabitants, and produced excellent results. - -We had been for some time looking out for an order for Dublin. Our -expectations were fulfilled on the fifteenth of March, by the Colonel -receiving a large official envelope containing the route for the 17th -regiment to proceed by rail on the 28th March, 1852, to Dublin, there to -be stationed and do garrison duty till further orders, to be quartered -in the Richmond Barracks. The order having been read to the regiment, -the news soon spread to the creditors in the town, when could be seen -tailors, shoemakers, hatters, bakers, grocers, and liquor merchants, all -rushing into the barracks looking for their debtors. - -Notwithstanding the credit of the regiment having been cried down on our -arrival, many tradespeople had given credit to several parties, which -they now were trying to collect; but all those who cannot collect it -now, the first tap of the big drum will pay them, when we march out of -town. - - "How happy is the soldier who lives on his pay, - And spends half a crown out of sixpence a day." - -We had fifteen days to get ready, which were occupied in cleaning -barracks, filling nail holes, and white-washing, to obviate as much as -possible that curse, barrack damages, which always follows a regiment -from one barrack to another. - - -[Illustration] - - - - -[Illustration] - -CHAPTER X. - - THE MARCH—RAIL TO DUBLIN—ARRIVAL—GARRISON DUTY—CASTLE GUARD—THE - OLD MAN'S HOSPITAL—DIVINE SERVICE—TENT-PITCHING—DEATH OF THE "IRON - DUKE"—THE FUNERAL—THE QUEEN VISITS DUBLIN—BUILDINGS AND - INSTITUTIONS—THE ROUTE. - - -March 28th, 1852, the regiment was formed on the Barrack Square, at six -o'clock a.m., in heavy marching order, full kits in our packs: the -companies minutely inspected and told off by their respective captains; -reports collected by the adjutant, when all reported present to the -Colonel, who then gave the command "fours rights, quick march," when -they stepped off, the companies wheeling to the right out of the gate, -the band striking up "Patrick's Day," playing up the main street. During -the inspection the barrack-gate had been besieged by a large crowd of -town's people, who accompanied the regiment to the railway station, -where we were joined by the two companies from the Castle. While getting -the regimental baggage, women, and children on the train, the band -discoursed some sweet music, causing frequent cheers from the crowd. At -length all was ready, when a wild scream from the engine was heard, and -the train moved out slowly from beneath the vaulted roof of the station, -amid cheer after cheer from the populace, who were assembled in large -numbers to see us off; the band playing during the slow departure of the -train from the station, and the men waving their handkerchiefs, in -response, from the carriage windows. At last the train quickened the -speed, and soon station and crowd faded from our view. We were scarcely -an hour in our seats—and viewing the country as the train sped along, -and admiring the beautiful green fields, hills and valleys interspersed -with running streams, the peasantry gazing in wonder, and the country -girls waving their handkerchiefs as the long train of soldiers passed -them by—when a shrill whistle from the engine was heard, and then, with -much noise, and many a heavy sob, the vast machine swept smoothly into -the station at Ballinasloe. - -There were, formed in line on the platform, the companies from -detachment at Banagher and Portumna, waiting our arrival to join -head-quarters. The train stopped at this station twenty minutes, when -the two companies came on board. All being ready, the train moved off -again, soon reaching Athlone, where we stopped fifteen minutes. Here we -got refreshments—a glass of beer and a biscuit, which we enjoyed, -having breakfasted at five that morning. About an hour after we were in -Mullingar, stopping fifteen minutes, when we started again. We are -rapidly leaving Mullingar behind. The fields gradually assume a green -and spring-like aspect. This part of the country is highly cultivated. -Occasionally a small village in the valley, by some running stream, or -upon the hill side, gives life and charm to the landscape. The Royal -Canal runs alongside of the railway all the way from Dublin to -Mullingar, and unites the Liffy with the Shannon in the west. - -As I was viewing the beauty of the landscape, the engine gave a loud and -long whistle, which reminded me we were close to the city. Now we can -see Wellington's monument, in PhÅ“nix Park; arriving at the station at -one o'clock, after a ride of one hundred and thirty miles, when we were -met by the band of the 39th Regiment, who played at the head of the -Regiment to Richmond Barracks. On arrival we were told off to our -different barracks. - -These are splendid, large, airy barracks, sufficient for two regiments, -with good officers' and staff quarters, but bad for married soldiers, -who have to rent apartments outside. - -The military force in Dublin then consisted of the 11th Hussars, Island -Bridge Barracks; 17th Lancers, Royal Horse Artillery and Foot Artillery, -Portobello; 2nd Dragoon Guards, 27th Regiment, Royal Barracks; 32nd -Light Infantry, Ship Street and Linen Hall Barracks; 39th and 17th -Regiments, Richmond Barracks; besides depôts at Beggars' Bush; the whole -under the command of Major-General Sir Edward Blakeley, whose quarters -were in the Old Man's Hospital, near PhÅ“nix Park. - -The regiments furnish the duties in their turn. In garrison orders of -the 30th, the 17th Regiment were detailed to furnish the whole of the -duties on the following day, viz:—The Castle Guard, one captain, one -subaltern, two sergeants, and twenty-four privates; Lower Castle, one -sergeant, one corporal and six privates; Vice-Regal Lodge, one sergeant, -two corporals and eighteen privates; Old Man's Hospital, one sergeant, -two corporals, and twelve privates; Kilmainham, one corporal, and three -privates; Arbour Hill Hospital, one sergeant, one corporal and twelve -privates; Magazine, one sergeant, one corporal and six privates; -Mountjoy, one corporal and six privates; Island Bridge, one sergeant, -one corporal and twelve privates; Picture Gallery, one corporal and -three privates; Bank of Ireland, one subaltern, one sergeant, one -corporal and twelve privates; Richmond, one sergeant two corporals and -twelve privates. - -These guards, with the regimental guards, assemble daily (Sundays and -wet days excepted), on the Esplanade, at ten p.m., when they are -trooped, the junior officer of the Castle Guard carrying the colours -during the trooping. The regiment who furnishes the duties for the day, -also furnishes the band, which plays during the trooping of the colours, -when crowds of spectators assemble to witness this military review. -After they march past in slow and quick time, the guards are formed on -their commanders, when they are marched off to their respective guards -by the field officer of the day. Relieving the Castle Guard is a very -imposing sight, and hundreds of people assemble to witness this military -performance, as well as to hear the sweet martial music while the guards -are relieving. Before the old guard marches off the new guard plants its -colours in the centre of the Castle yard, with a sentry over them. Two -sentries are posted at the gate of the Castle yard, and two on the door -of the Castle, under the portico. All the sentries of the old guard -having been relieved, the guard is marched off by its captain, the -subaltern carrying the colours, when the new guard salutes by presenting -arms, after which the new guard takes the place of the old; the relief -being told off, they are dismissed to the guard-room. The guards take -their rations with them, which consists of three-quarters of a pound of -beef or mutton, one pound and a half of bread, one pound and a half of -potatoes and onions, one-eighth ounce of tea, quarter of an ounce of -coffee, two ounces of sugar, with pepper and salt to each man. There -being but one pot and pan in each guard-room they are kept, as you may -well imagine, in active work until six o'clock in the evening, every -relief boiling potatoes and making tea and coffee. - -I was detailed for the Old Man's Hospital, which is a large -establishment, and consists of the Major General's Quarters, the English -Church, where the troops from Richmond attend divine service, as well as -the "Old Pensioners," or "Old Fogies," as they are called. There are -quarters here for about eight hundred men; any pensioner can be admitted -who applies (married men excepted). They are required to pay in their -pension for their board and clothes; the latter consists of cloth -trowsers, red tunic, which comes down below the knee, and a Napoleon -hat. They have no duty to perform, only keep themselves and quarters -clean and tidy. They are all well satisfied and seem happy; chatting, -and fighting their battles over again. The grounds, walks, avenues, -shrubbery, kitchen-garden, and flower-beds around this institution show -the taste, cleanliness, and discipline of those old veterans whose home -it now is, provided by a grateful country. - -Being relieved from guard next day, we had kit inspection by the -commanding officer, accompanied by Major Cole, who had just joined. -Sunday, church parade at ten a.m.; being inspected, we were marched off, -the band playing through Kilmainham, to the Old Man's Hospital, where -the Protestants and Roman Catholics parted for the time. I, belonging to -the latter, marched to St. Mary's Church, on Arran Quay. As we marched -along the Liffy the sweet strains of music, which re-echoed along the -river from the different bands as they marched to church, caused a most -pleasant sensation, which raised our thoughts heavenward. It is deeply -to be regretted bands do not now play on Sundays, owing to the Puritan -objections. Strict military discipline, numerous general field-days and -reviews, drilling at tent-pitching in the nineteen acres, regimental -drills and parades, with five nights in bed, kept our men pretty well -employed. But the beautiful walks in PhÅ“nix Park, and driving to the -strawberry beds on side-cars, with our sweethearts on Sunday afternoons, -together with theatres, concerts, museums, picture galleries, and the -scenery of the city, compensated us well for all our strict discipline, -and we were well pleased with Dublin as a military station. - -Now came a sad and mournful event to the army. The Duke of -Wellington—the Iron Duke, that noble and illustrious warrior and -statesman, whose glorious and eventful life, history relates and old -veterans remember—terminated this earthly career at the ripe age of 84 -years. This event, which took place suddenly and unexpected, occurred on -Tuesday, the 14th of September, 1852, after a few hours' illness, at -Walmer Castle his official residence. The intelligence of this mournful -event was received at the time with the deepest regret by the officers -and men of our regiment, and universal gloom pervaded throughout the -whole garrison. The hero of Salamanca, St. Sebastian, Quatre-Bras, -Ligny, and Waterloo, had paid the last debt. November the 1st, a general -order was issued directing one officer, one sergeant, and twelve rank -and file from each regiment in garrison to proceed, on the 8th inst., to -London, to take part in the funeral procession of the late Field -Marshal, His Grace the Duke of Wellington. Lieutenant W. H. Earle, -Sergeant Plant, and twelve rank and file (I being one of the latter), to -parade on the Esplanade, with the detachment from the other regiments in -garrison, when they were inspected by the General, and marched off, with -a field officer in charge, going on board a steamer at the North Wall, -at six o'clock p.m. We had on board about one hundred and fifty picked -men from these corps, I being the smallest man of the party, and I was -five feet eleven. The men vied with each other in a smart, soldier-like -appearance. All being ready, the Captain cried out, "all on board," when -the steamer moved out slowly from the quay, passed clear of the shipping -and Pigeon House Fort on the right, where detachments of our men -assembled, and gave us three cheers, waving their handkerchiefs, the -steamer rushed onwards, city and shore fading away, and nothing but -heavy clouds and water could be seen. The evening had an angry -appearance; darkness closed around; the sailors thought it looked like a -storm, but they were mistaken, although the vessel rolled and pitched -more than we thought agreeable. After a good deal of rolling and -pitching, with a frequent wave breaking over our bow, we steamed into -Liverpool docks at six o'clock in the morning, landed, got breakfast, -and marching to the railway station, took the train at 9 a.m. for -London. The engine gave the warning whistle, and we moved out of the -station, and were whirling onward towards London. The morning was -bright, invigorating and beautiful, the swift-winged train going -thundering along at the rate of forty miles an hour. After a ride of one -hundred and eighty miles in nine hours, we were set down at Euston -Station. While in London, we were quartered in Regent Park. On the -morning of the 13th of November, nothing could be more imposing than the -whole line of this melancholy procession; the day was fine, and the -appearance of the troops splendid. - -The streets were lined with cavalry and infantry, from the station to -St. Paul's Cathedral. At twelve o'clock the body arrived by rail from -Walmer Castle, escorted by a guard of honour. To detail the order of the -procession would occupy too much space here, suffice it to say, that the -cortege moved from the station, the bands playing the dead march, minute -guns firing, as it marched to St. Paul's Cathedral, where the body was -lowered into the crypt, close to the last earthly resting-place of the -heroic Nelson, waiting for the trumpet to turn-out. The funeral was one -of the most gorgeous and solemn spectacles that had ever before been -witnessed in England. - -This solemn duty being performed, we returned by rail next morning to -Liverpool, where we took the steamer at six p.m. for Dublin, arriving -there at six in the morning, after a rough passage, with several cases -of sea-sickness, when we marched to our respective barracks. - -The regiments in Dublin are changed from one barrack to another every -ten months; ours having been in Richmond the prescribed time, were -changed with the 63rd from the Royal Barracks. The first of April we -marched from Richmond, meeting the 63rd, when the junior saluted the -senior; the 17th being the older regiment, we had the honour of their -salute. On arrival, we were quartered in Palatine Square. The change we -hailed with pleasure, as it brought us closer to the amusements of the -city. Twelve men of each company were now armed with the Minié Rifle, -rather an improvement on Brown Bess, and proceeded to the Pigeon House -Fort, to go through a course of rifle instruction on the beach; this -course being finished, the rifles were handed over to twelve others, who -went through a course in the same manner, and so on, until the whole -regiment had gone through a course of rifle instruction. - -On the 1st of February, 1853, I had another increase in my family, for a -daughter was born. We had her christened at St. Mary's Church, Arran -Quay, Dublin. - -In the summer, the Queen and Prince Albert visited Dublin. A message -having been received that Her Majesty and the Prince were to land at -Kingstown, the grenadiers and light company were ordered to proceed by -rail from Westland Row Station to Kingstown, as a guard of honour. We -were formed in two lines facing inwards from the terminus to where the -Royal yacht was to come alongside, forming a passage which was spread -with a red carpet, for Her Majesty and the Prince to walk to the railway -carriage. We were standing there an hour when the Royal yacht was -descried in the distance, and as she steamed into the harbour, the ships -fired a royal salute. The yacht coming alongside the quay, we could see -Her Majesty and Prince Albert walking the deck. Her Majesty looked well, -and wore a plain plaid shawl, and seemed well pleased with the -reception. Soon after arrival, the Royal couple landed. As Her Majesty -stepped on shore, the guns of the fortresses belched forth a royal -salute; at the same time the bands played "God save the Queen." A -special train was in readiness, which conveyed the Royal couple and -guards of honour to Dublin, where they went in an open carriage to the -Vice-Regal Lodge, accompanied by several troops of cavalry. On the -occasion of Her Majesty and the Prince landing, many thousands of people -were present, and on the streets along the route to the Vice-Regal -Lodge, were immense crowds, who cheered and waved their hats, Her -Majesty and the Prince most carefully acknowledging their loyalty. Two -days afterwards, the troops in garrison were ordered to assemble in -review order at ten a.m., in the fifteen acres to be reviewed before Her -Majesty and Prince Albert. On the day appointed, the troops were marched -into the park, bands playing at the head of their respective corps -(accompanied by thousands of citizens), and were formed in line of -contiguous quarter distance columns facing the east, with the field -batteries on the flanks, and the cavalry in rear, at ten a.m. After -waiting a few minutes, Sir Edward Blakeney and his staff arrived, when -he deployed the troops into line. - -On the appearance of her Majesty on the ground the artillery fired a -royal salute, the infantry presenting arms, the bands playing "God save -the Queen." Her Majesty in an open carriage, drove down the front of the -line inspecting the whole, including the boys of the Hibernian School. -After the inspection the troops marched past Her Majesty in slow, quick, -and double time. The Queen seemed delighted with the marching past; -afterwards they were put through several field movements. As the Queen -was looking on, the crowd made a rush, determined to take off the horses -and to draw Her Majesty in her carriage. This Prince George took for an -attempt to assault her person, not understanding the character of the -Irish people, when he called out for the cavalry to form up; but when he -found that he mistook the people's loyalty, he apologized. This little -contretemps caused the Queen to smile at the mistake he had made, when -she drove off (well pleased with the review) to the Vice-Regal Lodge, -accompanied by an escort of cavalry. The troops were then marched to -their respective barracks, with their bands playing. On arrival in -barracks the grenadiers and light company were detailed for a guard of -honour to Her Majesty during her visit at the Vice-Regal Lodge, and be -encamped in front of the lodge in readiness to turn out at Her Majesty's -pleasure. After Her Majesty's departure the regiment was removed from -the Royal to Ship-street Barracks, with two companies at Linen Hall. We -also formed a guard of honour on the occasion of the Lord Lieutenant -opening the great Irish exhibition. The public buildings of Dublin are -famed for their number and grandeur. In the first class may be mentioned -the Bank of Ireland, formerly the House of Parliament; Trinity College, -the Custom House and the Four Courts, which, from the chasteness of -their design, and the massiveness of their proportions, have a very -imposing effect. Here, also we find monuments of William the Third, in -College Green; of Nelson, in Sackville Street; of the Duke of Wellington -in the Park, with several others. There are numerous places of -worship—Roman Catholic and Protestant—monasteries, convents, and a -Jewish synagogue. The most remarkable among the Protestant churches are, -Saint Patrick's Cathedral and Christ's Church, and among the Roman -Catholic, St. Mary's, St. Saviours, St. Augustine, and St. Kevin's. The -squares, which are very numerous, spacious, and well kept, are Stephen's -Green, which occupies an area of twenty acres, and a mile in circuit; -Merrion Square, the most aristocratic; the Trinity College Squares -occupy more than 40 acres; Rutland Square, with the Rotunda at the end -of Sackville Street. The environs of Dublin are especially beautiful. -Rathmines, a southern suburb, is a favourite residence of the wealthier -part of the mercantile community. Glasnevin, on the north, deserves -special notice, being the last resting place of the remains of Dan. -O'Connell, Curran, and Tom Steele. The PhÅ“nix Park is a magnificent area -of nearly 2000 acres, having a large amount of timber, which shelter -immense herds of deer; it affords scope for military reviews, and is -most extensively used by the inhabitants for recreation. The Liffy is -crossed by nine bridges, two of which are iron, and throughout the whole -extent of the city, the banks of the river are faced with granite walls. - -At Christmas, our Captain, John Croker, treated the company to a barrel -of Guiness's porter; Lieutenants Coulthurst and Earle looked after the -sergeants and married men, in the way of several substantials at -Christmas, when we drank towards their health and wished them many -returns of the season. Winter here is very pleasant, not much drill, -visiting theatres and concerts in the evening. Our term here is short. -On the 16th February, 1854, we got the route for Templemore, a town 90 -miles south-west of Dublin. - - - - -[Illustration] - -CHAPTER XI. - - ARRIVAL AT TEMPLEMORE—THE ROUTE TO CORK—EMBARKATION FOR - GIBRALTAR—QUEENSTOWN—THE VOYAGE—STORM AT SEA—GIBRALTAR. - - -At ten a.m., after inspection by Colonel McPherson, C.B., who took -command of the regiment, vice Styte, who retired, we marched to the -Great Southwestern Railway station, the band playing the "British -Grenadiers," accompanied by crowds of people, who gave us three cheers -as the train moved from the station, the band playing "Auld Lang Syne," -and the men waving their handkerchiefs. After a run of one hundred miles -in three hours, we arrived in Templemore and marched to our respective -quarters. These barracks are built on the same plan as those at -Richmond, and large enough for two regiments. The town is small and -dull, but the country very pretty. We were here a little over two months -when we got the order to proceed to Cork by rail, on the 27th April, -there to embark on board two sailing transports, the "Dunbar" and -"Cornwall," two sister ships; the right wing to go in the latter, and -the left in the former. - -War with Russia having been declared on Friday, March the 28th, we all -agreed that, though ordered to Gibraltar, before many months would -elapse we would have the honour and glory of taking the field shoulder -to shoulder with those troops who had already embarked for the seat of -war in the East. - -April 27th, 1854. The regiment took the train at two p.m., arriving in -Cork at five p.m., distance one hundred miles, in three hours. On -arrival we were quartered in Cork Barrack that night, next morning we -were conveyed to the transports, which rode at anchor in Queenstown -harbour, by two small tug steamers. This harbour is unsurpassed for -capacity and safety; it is distinguished into upper and lower, the -latter is situated eleven miles below the city, three miles long by two -broad, and completely landlocked. Its entrance is by a channel two miles -long by one wide, defended on one side by forts Camden and Carlisle. The -upper portion extends for about five miles below the city to Passage; -within the harbour are several islands, the principal of which are, -Great Island, on which is situated the fortifications of Queenstown; -Spike Island, on which is a bomb-proof artillery barrack, and convict -depôt; Rocky Island, on which are powder magazines excavated in the -rock; each side of the harbour is richly planted with ornamental trees -and shrubs, studded with beautiful villas, cottages and terraces; and -Queenstown deserves special notice, for its magnificent suburban -residences of the gentry, interspersed with ornamental trees, well-kept -lawns and promenades, elegantly designed churches and chapels, red brick -buildings, splendid shops with large plate glass windows, and clean, -wide streets, with a fine view of the shipping in the harbour, make it -one of the most delightful places in Ireland. The climate being so -salubrious, it is much frequented by consumptive invalids. - -The right wing were all on board (except some married officers and their -families) when each company were shown their berths and mess-tables, -after which stowing of knapsacks commenced; the ship's officers were -busily engaged telling off the women and children to their berths in the -after part of the ship. On the upper deck everything was in confusion; -the ship's steward was getting his fresh supply of provisions on board -for the voyage, and the sailors stowing away in coops and pens, hens, -ducks and sheep; at last the deck was cleared, and things put -ship-shape. The rolls being called and all reported present, the watches -were then told off. The captain walking the quarter-deck, the sailors -and soldiers man the capstan, and the band ready to play, with a stiff -breeze off the land. At 3 o'clock p.m. the captain gave the order to -weigh anchor, when the band struck up "Rule Britannia," the sailors and -soldiers keeping time to the music, manning the capstan. As the anchor -was tripped, the sails were unfurled, and we ran out of the harbour, -amid cheers from the shore and shipping in the harbour, and were soon -bowling along with a stiff breeze on the bow (N.W.). The men were served -out with hammocks and one blanket, one tin plate, one panakin to each -man, one meat dish, one soup can for each mess; every mess had brought -their own pudding clothes. At five the tea bugle sounded, when the -orderly men repaired to the cook's-galley for the tea, and served it out -in the messes. After tea the men went on deck to smoke, chat, and wonder -if they were going to be sea-sick. At five thirty the ration bugle -sounded, when the orderly men proceeded to draw rations for next day, -which consisted of salt pork and beef, on alternate days, biscuits, -flour, raisins, currants, tea, sugar, cocoa, vinegar, mustard, pepper -and salt; they made the plum-pudding for dinner, tied it up ready to -boil after breakfast next day—so you see Her Majesty cares for her -gallant soldiers. The ship was skimming along with a stiff breeze on the -starboard bow, all sails set. At six o'clock the boatswain piped down -hammocks, when they were all swung, and as the last post sounded at nine -o'clock, they all managed to crawl into them. I was on watch from eight -to twelve; the wind had been increasing during the evening. I also -observed the sky had an angry appearance; the sailors were all busily at -work securing every sail and making all taut. The wind had changed in -the night and was now blowing hard in our teeth; it was a case of -tacking, and for landsmen a very trying affair; all night it blew a -gale, the wind still from the same quarter; in the night the sailors had -to shorten sail several times, each time the ship was brought round on -the other tack with a tremendous lurch, and mess tins, water kegs, and -tin dishes were dashed to the other side in frightful confusion. My -watch being relieved, I turned in at twelve, and with all the pitching -and tossing I slept soundly until I was awoke by the orderly sergeant -turning out the men to get their hammocks stowed on deck. When I went on -deck to put my hammock in the place appointed, the wind was still -blowing hard; I had to hold on to keep my footing; the whole sea was -alive, wave chasing wave and bounding over each other crested with foam. -Now and then the ship would pitch her nose into the waves even to the -bulwark, and dash the billows aside, and buoyantly rise again, bowling -along at ten knots an hour though under moderate sail. Breakfast at -eight o'clock of hard sea biscuits and cocoa; but many were on their -backs in sea-sickness. After breakfast all hands were ordered on deck -except the orderly men, who kept the mess in order and prepared the -meals. The wind was still very high and the long swells began to tell on -the men; the figure-head plunging as usual deeply into the water, and -the heads of some of our men hanging in agony over the gunwale and -portsill, in the horrors of sea-sickness. - -At the sound of the grog bugle at twelve, they all sprightened up, and -very few were absent from their half-gill of rum and two waters. When -the dinner of salt-beef and plum pudding was served, most of them made -appearance. After dinner the sun had shown through the clouds, and the -men gathered in groups on deck to smoke and chat. The progress of the -ship was a subject of interest; it was the first thing in the morning -and the last at night; and all through the day the direction of the -wind, the state of the sky, the weather, and the rate we were going at, -were the uppermost topics of the conversation. The ship was bounding -along very fast, and it was a fine sight to look up at the clouds of -canvas bellied out by the wind like the wings of a gigantic bird, while -the ship rushed through the water, dashing it in foam from her bows, and -always dipping her figure-head into the waves, sending up a shower of -spray. There was always something exciting in the ship, and the way in -which she was handled astonished us soldiers; for instance, to see the -top-gallant sails hauled down when the wind freshened, or a stay-sail -set as the wind went round to the east. The hauling in of the mainsail -on a stormy night was to be remembered for a life-time; twenty-four -sailors on the main-yard at a time, clewing in to the music of the wind -whistling through the rigging. The sailors sing out cheerily at their -work, the one who mounts the highest or stands the foremost on the deck -usually taking the lead, thus—they cheer up— - - "Haul in the bowlin', - I love you, Mary Nolan, - Haul in the bowlin', - Rollin' yo, heave ho." - -In comes the rope with a jerk until the "belay," sung out by the mate, -signifies that the work is right. Then there is a rush on the deck when -the wind changes, and the yards are to be squared as the wind comes more -aft. Being relieved at twelve I turned in and slept well until four -o'clock, when I was awoke by the watch holystoning the deck, under the -charge of the officer of the watch. I need scarcely explain that the -holystone is a large, soft stone, used with water for scrubbing the -decks. It rubs down with sand. The sand is washed off by water from the -hose, the pump being worked by four men, a man directing the nozzle of -the hose into every crevice; the force of the water washing every -particle of dirt from the hen-coops, sheep-pens and decks. The watch -always wash decks in their bare feet, their trowsers turned up above -their knees. After the decks are well washed down with water from the -hose, they are dried with swabs, and the deck looks as white as a -tablecloth; the boards brighten with the work, not a grease-mark or spot -of dirt is to be seen; all polished off with hand scrapers; the ropes -all neatly coiled man-of-war fashion, not a bight out of place, and the -brass-work polished and shining—hard work before breakfast. By six -o'clock the decks are all clean and dry and everything looking neat; at -nine o'clock the doctor ordered all the women and children on deck; the -sun shone through the clouds and all was pleasant, the ship running -along with close-reefed canvas. At sundown the wind changed round on her -larboard quarter from the north-west, and we were making good progress -across the Bay of Biscay; we were getting accustomed to the motion of -the ship, and many of the officers and men assembled on deck until a -late hour watching our course and looking for our port. On Sunday -morning the wind was blowing a gale; during the twenty-four hours we -made 190 miles. - -At ten o'clock we were all assembled on the main deck for Divine -service, which was read by the captain of the ship; the day was fine -with a stiff breeze; we were running before the wind at the rate of ten -knots an hour; we had slept well all night. Going on deck next morning, -I found the wind strong from the north, and the ship going through the -water at a splendid rate; as much sail was on her as she could carry, -and she was dashing along, leaving a broad track of foam in her wake. -There is no resting, but a constant pushing onward; and, as we look over -the bulwark, the waves tipped by the foam which the ship has raised seem -to fly behind us at a prodigious speed. At ten next morning we found the -ship's run during the twenty-four hours had been 200 miles—a grand -day's work, nearly equal to steam. We ran well before the breeze all -night, until about six in the morning, when the wind changed to our -starboard bow, and heavy dark clouds appeared in the distance, and the -wind dropped almost to a calm, the sails flapping against the mast all -day and night. - -Next morning the sailors were busy securing ropes and getting everything -ready; they said this calm was but weather breeding, and predicted that -we were to have a change. The glass was falling, and we were to look out -for squalls. They were not disappointed in their morning's expectations -of a gale. Before morning we had it in earnest. - -We, novices in sea life, thought we had a severe storm on Friday night, -but the sailors only laughed at us when we spoke of it. In our hammocks -below we knew that the wind was blowing a gale, that the ship was -pitching and tossing about fearfully, and could hear the boatswain's -whistle, and the sailors aloft reefing sails, and the waves breaking -clean over the deck above us. At two o'clock in the morning a heavy sea -struck our starboard side. The concussion seemed like striking against a -rock; some were thrown clean out of their hammocks; women and children -thrown from their berths, crockery smashed and boxes rattled, trunks, -water kegs, tin dishes, plates, pails, and every moveable article was -dashed with violence from one side of the ship to the other. - -Women and children screamed with fright, and men jumped from their -hammocks. For a few moments the ship stood perfectly still, as if -stiffened with the stroke, then she shivered from stem to stern, and the -timbers groaned and quivered; in a few moments more she was dashing -headlong onwards through the mountain of waves. I should think if there -were any on board who had never prayed before, they must have prayed -now. Both men and women vied with each other in the exchange of good -offices and friendly words. - -Envy was subdued, passionate wrath and revenge were forgotten, all acted -as men and women who were soon to stand in the presence of their God. -There was the pure steady and charming light of Christian hope and love -shining beneath the very shadow of death. It was a solemn and touching -thing to hear so many strong men acknowledge, in that hour of peril, -their utter helplessness, and praying Him who once lay on a pillow -asleep, "Lord save us we perish"—praying Him to abide with us. The -hatches were all canvassed and fastened down, so that none but the -sailors and the soldiers on watch could go on deck, the sea was washing -over the deck. That was indeed, an awful night, dark, chilling, and -drenching; hour after hour passed as we momentarily expected our doom. -The deck was continually washed over by great seas. As soon as morning -light appeared, I managed to get on deck, though with extreme -difficulty, both from dizziness and the motion of the ship. I was -determined to enjoy the fresh air and see how the ocean looked, lashed -into a tempest. I had to cling fast to keep my footing; the ship was -pitching up and down, tossed like a feather in the wind. We rode on huge -mountain billows of dark leaden colour, capped with molten glass and -tipped with silvery caps of foam. As I hung on to the rope, meditating -on the vastness of the ocean, and waves mountains high, my soul was -deeply impressed with the omnipotence and infinity of the God who -scooped out this mighty abyss, and filled it with those powerful waters. -He hath set them their bounds and says to them in their wildest -commotion, "thus far, and here shall thy proud waves be stayed." - -This dreadful storm raged all day, and the night was terrible; there was -no more distance nor space; the sky was turned into blackness, and shut -itself down upon the ship, nothing was any longer visible on this the -racecourse of the wind; we felt ourselves delivered over to a merciful -providence. The men, women and children had their second attack of -sea-sickness, even the sailors were sick. The storm raged all next day -(Sunday) and night; no one on board could get anything cooked as the -fires were all put out from the sea washing over the ship; even if they -could, few could eat,—they were all so sick. - - - THE VOYAGE TO GIBRALTAR. - - On the wide expanse of the stormy seas, - Our noble ship swept before the breeze, - Our gallant captain, when twelve days had run, - Tried with his sextant to take the sun. - - The heavy fog seemed still much worse, - Scarcely knowing where to lay his course, - And tried and tried the stormy main, - While heavy fog seemed to kiss the plain. - - The clouds they broke and showed the sky, - Placing the instrument to his eye, - The howling wind our course had fixed, - And marked the latitude at forty-six. - - An eastward course he then did try, - While billows they rose mountains high, - The captain's orders were to haul yards back, - And set the sails on starboard tack. - - The storm it rose a furious gale, - Which caused the landsmen's hearts to fail, - With deathly sick, as then the heaving ship - Rode high on billows, then her prow would dip. - - On the wave-washed deck with deep dismay, - The dizzy soldier feels the deck give way, - And tries in vain a last resource, - To catch a rope to stay him in his course. - - Rushing with nausea to the side, - Where the starboard watch at him did chide, - He holds on taut while feet give way, - And clings like death to portsill stay. - - But now the western winds the sails expand, - And soon the "look-out" reports he sees the land, - Where there before us in the vapours rolled, - The African mountains looming out so bold. - - T. FAUGHNAN. - - -Monday morning at four o'clock the wind changed on our larboard quarter, -and suddenly dropped. The boatswain piped all hands to square yards and -make sail; this order was hailed by the men, and it soon reached the -women, when they all offered up prayers and thanks to God for their -deliverance. - -The wind dropped considerably, and by twelve o'clock all was quiet, the -ship running steadily before the wind. - -The usual grog bugle sounded at twelve, when every man made his -appearance. At six in the evening the wind fell away altogether. This -repose after that fearful storm was an unspeakable blessing; all that -had been fury was now tranquillity; it appeared to us a sign of peace; -we could let go the rope or stay we were holding on by; the women and -children could stand upright and straighten themselves, and walk and -move about; we felt ourselves inexpressibly happy in the depths of this -heavenly change. All night was almost a dead calm, and it was a -blessing; we all slept well after the awful pitching and tossing we had -had the last three days. In the morning when I went on deck the sails -were flapping, and not a breath of wind. After breakfast the women and -children were ordered on deck, when the lower decks were thoroughly -scrubbed and cleaned, and when dinner bugle sounded they were allowed to -go below. After dinner the upper deck was washed and cleaned. Toward -evening the wind changed to our starboard and began to freshen; towards -morning we were running before the wind at nine knots an hour. At ten -o'clock a.m., I was agreeably surprised when I heard a sailor from the -masthead cry out, Land, ho! I found by our captain's eyes that the land -lay off our weather beam, but though I strained my eyes looking for the -land, I could see nothing. It was quite an hour before I could find it, -and then it looked more like a cloud than anything else. At length the -veil lifted, and I saw the land stretching away to the eastward, as we -neared it, and saw it more distinctly. It looked a glorious object to us -soldiers, though we were then ten or twelve miles off, yet the highest -peaks, which were above the clouds, some hundreds of feet high, were so -clear that they looked as if they had been stolen out of the "Arabian -Nights," or some fairy tale of wonder and beauty. - -The bluff and lofty headland of Cape St. Vincent, with its sharp -detached rock, white light-house, and adjacent convent skirting the edge -of the precipice, was the first land that I saw, as the ship bounded -upon our glorious waters of Trafalgar bay. All on board were quite -recovered of their sea-sickness, as the ship glided across wide bays and -along the indented coast of Spain. The ship had soon studding-sails set, -and she swept onward like some large bird of prey towards the straits. -Tarifa, famous in martial story with its low, flat-roofed houses, backed -by barren-looking, sun-scorched hills, was passed and all eyes were -turned on the tremendous scragged outline of the African coast rising -several thousand feet above the sea. The hazy morning light added to the -effect, throwing out in relief the broad stone face and picturesque form -of Ape's Hill, streaked with shadowy fissures, crevices and -indentations, which the scorching sun failed to touch. But the Spanish -side of the straits, through which the blue Mediterranean now became -visible, engrossed the larger share of our attention. There stood the -bold rock of Gibraltar, rearing its bald crest to the sky, a fit -sentinel at the gate of those waters which lave the shores of fallen, -but once mighty empires, now the key and glory of Old England. The ship -now hoisted her flags, which were immediately noticed at the signal -station, on the loftiest part of the range, where a flag-staff is -visible against the sky. Some of our officers who were on the rock -before, with the help of their telescope could trace many an old haunt. -They knew every path on those craggy heights. There was the town behind -the old Moorish walls, looking the same as ever; there was the Alameda, -the convent, and many other familiar domiciles, peeping from amogst -shrubberies and gardens. - -At five p.m. we cast anchor in the harbour of Gibraltar, when the ship -was besieged with bumboats of vendors in oranges, dates, lemons, figs, -and luxuries of almost every kind. Soon after a boat with a yellow flag -approached the ship; it was the health officer, who made inquiries of -our doctor as to sickness on board, and was answered "All right, No -sickness but sea-sickness," when he returned to shore, and afterwards a -staff officer appeared who informed the captain that he had got -"pratique," when the order to disembark at once was given. - - -[Illustration] - - - - -[Illustration] - -CHAPTER XII. - - THE LANDING—BARRACKS—GARRISON DUTY—OLD NORTH FRONT—SMUGGLING— - MARKET—QUEEN'S BIRTHDAY—THE DINNER—SPEECHES—THE ROUTE—THE - MARCH—EMBARKATION FOR THE CRIMEA—THE PARTING—THE VOYAGE—ARRIVAL - AT MALTA. - - -May 13th, 1854, at 6 p.m., the right wing formed in open column of -companies, right in front, on the New Mole, after a very rough passage -from Queenstown, and considering how the men were knocked about, they -looked remarkably clean and well. The band and pipers of the 92nd -Highlanders met us at the New Mole, and played alternately during the -march to the Casemate Barracks, where we were quartered, followed by a -crowd of Rock Scorpions, a motley crowd of English, Irish, Spaniards, -Italians, Jews, and Moors. Several soldiers from the garrison welcomed -us, and seemed pleased to see a fresh regiment arrive to share their -military duties. By two o'clock next day the "Dunbar" arrived with the -left wing. They landed at three o'clock and joined headquarters at the -Casemate Barracks, number six company proceeding to Catalan Bay on -detachment. - -The regiment was exempt from garrison duty next day, in order to get its -baggage in order, and settle down in their quarters. The following day -we found the whole of the garrison duties. The guards with their colours -are trooped every day at ten a.m. (Sundays excepted), on the Alameda, -under the field officer, assisted by the brigade major. I was detailed -for the Old North Front Guard, which consisted of one captain, one -subaltern, one sergeant, two corporals, and twenty-four rank and -file—the soldiers take their rations with them on guard. The officers -get their meals sent from the mess. - -The guard furnishes a chain of sentries across the neutral ground which -divides the Spanish from the British lines. Gibraltar is a free port, -and a resort, in consequence, of Spanish smugglers, who drive an amazing -trade by running contraband goods into Spain, and _vice versa_, which -the British authorities endeavour to stop by all means possible. -Notwithstanding all their exertions, this fraud is still carried on -under cover of dark nights. I, being posted on No. 6 post along the -Spanish lines from twelve till two, my orders were to make prisoners of -any smugglers who attempted to pass through. As I walked up and down my -post, I heard some slight noise in the long grass. I stooped down and -saw two men crawling along the grass. I advanced, and challenged, "who -goes there?" when they stooped down and tried to get away. I then -advanced nearer, and threatened to fire if they did not answer my -challenge, at the same time brought down my musket to the charge, and -full-cocked. When they saw I was about firing, they stood still and -answered me saying, "Bono Jonny, me good man, here me gib you plenty -bacca, me gib you plenty gin, him good gin, me gib you plenty eberthing -you let me pass, mit dem tings to garden, you plenty big good man, come -from Inglas, you von good man, plenty drink gin, him good for you." They -took some stone jars of gin, and some tobacco, to give me for letting -them through; but, true to my orders, when I saw the smuggled goods they -had, I made them prisoners, telling them if they moved, I would shoot -them. At the same time I passed the word to the next sentry to send for -the sergeant of the guard. They begged off very hard, and finally -offered me all their stuff if I would let them go. As soon as the -sergeant came, I handed him the prisoners, with six large, square blocks -of tobacco, and six large cases of gin. This smuggling is ever carried -on, and the sentries have all they can do to prevent it. Some sentries, -I am sorry to say, compromise with the smugglers, tobacco and gin being -too strong temptations for them. The guard being relieved, we discharged -our muskets into the sea, all our guards being loaded. The climate is -warm and pleasant throughout the year, and yet we can see the perpetual -snow-capped mountains of Andalusia, towering heavenwards in the -distance. The troops have bathing parade twice a week, at five o'clock -in the morning; and several times during the day, may be seen soldiers -and civilians besporting themselves like porpoises in the water of the -Old Mole. There is a market every morning, which opens after gunfire. -The Spaniards cross the neutral ground from Spain with their mules, -loaded with all sorts of provisions, vegetables and fruit, standing -outside the drawbridge, waiting for the gate to be opened. The market -place is fenced in, and divided into square stalls, which are rented by -the vendors, who consist of Moors, Spaniards, Jews, and Italians. - -The Moors squat down behind their stalls with their Fez cap, and -turbans, big breeches, and a long loose gown open in front, yellow -slippers, and smoking a long pipe. Oranges, grapes, figs, lemons, dates, -olives, and fruit of almost every description are sold here very cheap. - -On the 24th May, the Queen's Birthday, the troops in garrison, -consisting of two batteries royal artillery, two companies sappers and -miners, and four regiments of infantry, were drawn up in line on the -North Front at twelve o'clock, each man furnished with twelve rounds of -blank cartridge. As the clock in the tower struck twelve, a gun fired -from the Sky Battery was the signal for a Royal salute; then the -batteries on the rock as well as the men-of-war in the harbour fired -twenty-one guns each, and the line of soldiers with the field artillery -on their flanks, fired a feu-de-joie. After the smoke cleared off, the -men waved their shakoes in the air, then gave three cheers for Her -Gracious Majesty. This was a grand sight for the spectators, more -especially the Spaniards, who assembled in thousands to witness this -military celebration of Her Majesty's birthday. - -The troops then marched past, in slow, quick, and double time, they were -then divided into two armies, and put through a sham-fight, which lasted -till four o'clock. We had those fights frequently, and a general review -once a week during the summer months. On the 15th November, I had -another increase in my family; a girl was born, and she was christened -Elizabeth. - -On the 20th November, 1854, we received a letter of readiness to prepare -for active service in the East. Then came the usual packing of baggage, -and creditors—Jews, Moors, and Gentiles—flying round the barracks with -pieces of paper in their hands, looking for what was not easily found -just then. - -The evening before embarkation our company was entertained at a supper -by the grenadiers of the 39th Regiment, whom we had often met and done -duty with in the same garrison, and a friendly feeling had sprung up -between the officers and men of both companies; both captains and -officers were present to see the men enjoy themselves. After the cloth -was removed the president proposed a toast to the Queen, which was drunk -with a hearty good will, and three cheers for Her Majesty. The captain -of the 39th stood up to propose the health of their guests. "Brother -officers and soldiers," he said, looking down the two rows of faces, one -on each side of the long table, with a cheerful frank smile, "in the -name of the grenadier company, which I have the honour to command, allow -me to extend to you, our brothers and comrades in arms, a hearty -welcome, I think as this garrison, which has been so jolly, and is about -to be broken up by the gallant '17th Royal Bengal Tigers' going to join -the army in the Crimea, I must say that we are heartily sorry that it -has not come to our turn to share the honours of our comrades in a brush -with the Muscovites; but we hope, ere many days pass, we will have the -gratification of joining you in the East, and there share the glories of -the British Army in fighting for our Queen and country, and leading such -men as I now see before me at this hospitable board against the -Russians. We tender to you frankly the hand of military comrades, and -instead of firing a feu-de-joie of compliments, it is the duty of those -who remain to drink the health of those who are proceeding on active -service in the East. A bumper then, let us say good health and God bless -them." With three times three the glasses were drained, whilst the band -struck up "The British Grenadiers." - -Captain John Croker was then called upon to respond. He said, "Brother -officers, and soldiers of the 39th Regiment, this cordial reception -and courtesy of the officers and privates demand our warmest -acknowledgments, which I, in the name of my company, have the honour to -acknowledge, and I propose a health to the grenadiers of the 39th -Regiment with whom we are about to part,—charge your glasses;" and the -toast was drunk with all honours, to the appropriate tune of "Auld Lang -Syne," the company singing, "They are Jolly Good Fellows." - -December 2nd, 1854, at 8 a.m., the 17th Regiment "Royal Tigers" paraded -in the square of the Casemate Barracks for the last time, and having -been called to attention, and inspected by the commanding officer, -Colonel McPherson, C.B., he gave the word of command, the men stepped -off, preceded by the bands of other regiments, through the main street -of the town, playing the "Girl I Left Behind Me," followed by a motley -crowds of friends, sweethearts, and curious spectators, as we marched to -the New Mole, where the steam-ship "Tamar" was lying along side the -wharf to convey the 17th Regiment, two batteries of royal artillery, and -two companies of sappers and miners, to the seat of war in the Crimea. -Our parting with our wives and children was a very affecting and trying -sight, officers and soldiers taking the last farewell (some of them, -perhaps for ever) of those nearest and dearest to them, whom they were -now leaving behind on that barren rock; many hundreds of miles away from -friends or relatives, and not sure whether we would ever return again to -our loved families. I had left my wife and three children, one of them -only sixteen days old, trusting in God. - -But our Queen and country require us to meet the despot in mortal -combat, and defend the honour and glory of that old flag "that braved a -thousand years the battle and the breeze," therefore we must sever all -family ties, though hard to give up our feelings, when our Queen and -country call us to the front. Let it not be supposed that the officers -are wanting in sympathy towards the private soldier: very superficial -has been the observer, who can believe that the officer and the private -possess little in common with each other; or who can persuade himself -that the private soldier is only a machine, moved only by the command of -his superiors. Should such a casuist exist let him remember that men are -men, whether the scarlet on their backs is of the finest or coarsest -texture; and that, if the advantage of birth and the refinement of -superior education have done nothing for the officer, the private -soldier who makes a good use of such talent as he may have received, -occupies a higher position, be his ever so humble. There were some -private soldiers in the regiment who, at the parting moment, felt as -deeply the separation from wife and children, as the more aristocratic -members of the same profession; nor were incidents of a romantic -interest wanting, though the tearful young girl who saw with anguish her -true lover's departure was only dressed in calico. Doubtless in these -latter times, when England has sent forth so many of her sons to fight -for the honour of her flag, there are few who have not seen something of -the display of the varied emotions which such departures call forth, it -will therefore be unnecessary to say that when the sad time of parting -had come it was visible in the tearful eyes and blanched cheeks of many -in the crowd. The loud cheers which greeted the 17th Regiment as it -passed through the gate of the drawbridge leading down to the wharf -where the ship lay, showed the chivalrous emotions of the stern British -soldiers who lined the ramparts and along the docks, with crowds of -people whose hearts beat with sympathy as the regiment embarked. - -At eleven o'clock, all being ready, the captain gave the word and the -steamer moved out slowly from the wharf, the band playing in slow time -"Auld Lang Syne" amid cheer after cheer, and handkerchiefs waving from -the people, and returned by the crowd of red-coats who assembled on deck -to wave their handkerchiefs and wipe away the tears which were fast -running down their cheeks as they gazed on their little ones left behind -on the wharf. - -As the steamer rounded the New Mole her speed increased, and the music -also changed time; at length Europa point, with its barracks and -batteries, was turned and the reverse side of the rock, still more bold -and barren with "O'Hara's Old Tower," rearing its lofty weather-beaten -ruined spire, on the highest summit of the Wind-mill Hill. Favoured by a -beautiful sunny day and a westerly breeze, the "Tamar" swept rapidly -past the gigantic sentinel whose watch-word is the roar of the signal -gun, on the summit of the telegraph station; and when the evening sun -was gilding the snow-topped mountains of Africa with a streak of gold, -the good ship had proceeded many miles to the eastward, and though the -mountains of Africa reared their bright summits above the horizon, the -"Old Rock" was no longer to be seen. - -Then our attention was directed to the white-capped mountains on the -south coast of Spain; and when these faded from view, time was passed in -looking out for African capes or sun-burned islands. - -After tea the men assembled on deck, indulging in all sorts of games to -pass the time. A comic soldier dressed up like a baboon grinned and -jumped round the decks, up the masts, and through all the performance of -a monkey, causing roars of laughter from all around. After this, dancing -was introduced, several of the men being musicians had brought their -fiddles, we were at no loss for music; at the other side a group were -singing comic and sea songs; in this way the evening was passed until -the bugle sounded at nine o'clock, when we turned into our hammocks. We -have much better accommodation than we had on the old "Cornwall," -although we have three times the number on board. - -Next morning decks were washed by the watch at four o'clock; at ten -a.m., commanding officer's parade, when the men looked in excellent -spirits. Now came in view something to call their attention, a grampus -had blown a shower of water in the air fifty feet; the men all rushed to -see what it was, several gave their opinion as to what caused the -eruption of the water, some thought it was a volcano that broke out, -some said it was an infernal machine the Russians had placed there to -destroy our shipping, and many various opinions were brought forward to -explain the cause of the wonderful blow; a sailor, however, came along -and told us that it was a grampus. Now we see plenty of flying-fish, -whole shoals of the glittering little things glide along in the air, -skimming the top of the waves; they rise to escape their pursuers, the -bonitos, which rush after them showing their noses above the water now -and then; but the poor flying-fish have their enemies above as well as -under the water, for they no sooner rise than they risk becoming a prey -to the ocean birds which are always hovering about ready to pounce upon -them; it is a case of "out of the frying-pan into the fire." They fly -farther than I thought they could. I saw one of them fly at least one -hundred yards, and sometimes they fly on deck some fifteen feet from the -surface of the water. The weather was all that could be wished for, and -our splendid ship making rapid progress through the blue waters; the sea -is almost a dead calm, hardly a ripple on the face of the deep; an -occasional whale is seen blowing in the distance, and many grampuses -came rolling and blowing about the ship. One thing that struck me most -is the magnificence of the Mediterranean sun-set; the clouds assume all -sorts of fantastic shapes and appear more solid and clearly defined than -I have ever seen them before; toward evening they abound in colour, -purple, pink, red and yellow, alternately, while the sky near the -setting sun seems a beautiful green, gradually melting into the blue sky -above, the great clouds on the horizon look like mountains tipped with -gold and fiery red. One of those sun-sets was a delightful sight; the -sun went down into the sea between two enormous clouds, the only ones to -be seen, and they blazed with brilliant colours which were constantly -changing, until the clouds stood out in dark relief against the still -delicately tinted sky. I got up frequently to see the sun rise, but it -is not near so beautiful as at setting. After sun-down the officers -chose out a few of the best talent among the men, who assembled on the -quarter-deck and sang some excellent glees, comic and sentimental songs, -with great applause; at nine o'clock the bugle sounded, when we turned -in and slept well, the ship running as steady as if she was in a canal. - -Next morning after parade the officers amused themselves with their -revolvers shooting at porpoises which came in shoals close to the ship. -After dinner the band played on the quarter-deck to the delight of all -on board, more especially the ship's officers and sailors. The weather -was beautiful and the sea like a mirror. - -At seven next morning the sailor on the look out on the masthead cried -out "land ho!" when all eyes were strained looking for the desired -object, but none could see it for some time afterwards—at last we saw -it in the distance, like a dark cloud lying on the waters; as we neared -the land it appeared to us a rocky, barren-looking island, Malta. Yet -the cultivated strips here and there were so green and flourishing, they -presented a most charming and beautiful appearance. Those who had not -before visited the place were struck with the imposing appearance of -this remarkable city. Tier upon tier of batteries upon all sides showed -bristling rows of guns, daring intruders to enter the harbour with -hostile intentions. To the right the principal part of the town was to -be seen, terrace above terrace, dome and spires, towering above the -houses, all looming darkly against the sky. The air was sultry, and the -reflection of buildings, rocks and shipping, in the almost still water -was only agitated by the little boats which were moving about in all -directions. The harbour was crowded with shipping, and as we moved into -our moorings at ten o'clock, we were cheered by the sailors and soldiers -on board the men of war in the harbour, as well as from the batteries on -either side. We had a splendid passage of nine hundred and eighty miles -in four days. - - -[Illustration] - - - - -[Illustration] - -CHAPTER XIII. - - MALTESE—DEPARTURE—A CAPTAIN COMMITS SUICIDE—THE FUNERAL—SMALL-POX— - RETURN—RESUMED THE VOYAGE—GRECIAN ARCHES—DARDANELLES—GALLIPOLI— - TURKISH SENTRIES—CONSTANTINOPLE—TURKISH LADIES—THE BOSPHORUS— - VOYAGE ACROSS THE EUXINE—ARRIVAL. - - -Soon after our arrival in the harbour, a coal-barge came along side, and -about fifty Maltese commenced to coal our ship; they carried the coal on -their heads in round, wicker baskets; passed each other on the gangway -after depositing their load in the ship's bunker. The coaling lasted -about two hours, during which time the officers and men were amused by -divers who came along in little boats; a boy managing the boat, while -the diver was left free to exercise his strange employment. His dress -consisted of a light pair of drawers short at both ends, and a loose -skirt. Bringing his little craft alongside, where we were looking over -the railing, and divesting himself of his upper garments, he commenced -in a supplicating tone of broken English: "sixpence, me dive for -sixpence, me get him quick; me get him sure." Some of the officers -tossed a sixpence into the water where it was very deep, supposing he -was going to the bottom for it; but experience taught him an easier mode -of catching it. Watching it with the eye of a hawk he saw it strike the -water, and, poising himself, he sprung head first in the sea; the water -was so clear we could follow him with our eyes. Down he went like an -arrow, outstripping the sixpence in the race for the bottom; before it -had sunk twelve feet he had his hands under it in the form of a bowl, -the shining piece dropping into his hands; he then clapped it between -his teeth, rose to the surface, climbed into his boat and exhibited the -prize with the air of a conqueror. This was repeated several times, and -with unerring certainty he caught the prize every time. He then asked -for some one to throw a sixpence the other side of the ship, which was -done, when he sprang under the ship and brought it up in his teeth on -the other side. The Maltese had finished coaling at twelve, when our -steamer moved slowly from her buoy; dense masses of people lined the -batteries, and yet larger crowds of soldiers in the forts St. Angelo and -St. Elmo cheered as our steamer moved along, the cheers from the fort -being taken up by the troops on board, as well as the sailors and -marines in the harbour, and joyously responded to by our troops who -assembled on the deck to give our last hurrah for the East. The Town of -Valetta with its strong forts, batteries, terraces, domes and houses -grew smaller by degrees as the gallant "Tamar" ploughed her onward -course through the blue waters of the Mediterranean, the island looking -like a little blue cloud in the distance, gradually fading away. We have -the trackless expanse around us; in the distance Mount Etna looms up in -the north-west. The ship was making rapid progress through the -waters—the captain says, "if this breeze lasts, we will reach -Constantinople on the 8th," but our expectations were frustrated; "man -proposes, but God disposes," which we found to be true; for on Saturday, -at 8 a.m., a very melancholy occurrence happened which threw a deep -gloom over all the troops on board; the captain commanding the -detachment Royal Artillery had cut his throat in his cabin; no person -could ever find out what was the cause which led him to commit this -dreadful act. - -How deeply touching is a burial at sea! replete with reflection, -striking and sublime, as should always be the spectacle of a -funeral,—the tree falling as it must rise again, with no leaves nor -flowers of repentance or prayer, or office to alter its final doom, ever -to bloom again on that cut down stem,—far more deeply does the service -and the sights and the sounds of a funeral on the ocean always move one. -The clouds had cleared and it was intensely hot; the funeral took place -at two o'clock; we saw the body sewed up in a hammock with a round shot -at its feet, and borne by the men of his battery from his cabin and laid -upon the deck. We had no clergyman on board, therefore the painful duty -of reading the service devolved upon the captain of the ship, which -could not have been performed by a clergyman. As he began to read, not a -sound, not a breath broke the solemn silence; nothing but the noise of -the rolling swells against the smooth side of the ship as I stood close -to the gangway while the service was read, in deep thought, and gazing -on the bright and glorious shining sea, now nearly calm, looking so -intensely sunny and blue; it seemed to some a mocking at the king of -terrors, whose victim was about to be committed to its keeping. To me it -looked like the gemmed and crystal gate of that heaven through which the -Son of God had promised the faithful Christian who believes and trusts -in Him to wing its happy way, there to learn many a marvel that he had -striven on earth to trace and explore. - -Earnestly and solemnly he read, and, when he uttered the last words, the -sailors raised the body to the edge of the gangway and let it slide, -feet foremost, into the sea "and so we commit his body to the deep." You -who think it a solemn thing to hear the bell of some country church at -home echoing through the rich woods or flowery valleys, telling of the -death of some one who will never return home again, cannot form any idea -of the awe which strikes into the heart at sea. I do not think there -were many dry eyes among the officers and men of his battery, as they -saw the body splash into the deep sea and sink straight down, with the -heavy round shot at his feet. After this painful event the doctor -reported two cases of small-pox, which had broken out amongst the -troops, and immediately the captain and officers held a council to know -what course they would pursue. It was decided to return to Malta, and -put the sick men into hospital there, and prevent taking the infectious -disease out to the Crimea amongst the troops. The ship was headed for -Malta where we arrived at 6 p.m. next day; as we entered the harbour -unexpectedly, from one of the upper forts, at the end of the harbour, -there came a flash, followed by a loud report, which was echoed back and -forward against the rocks and buildings, till the roaring sound at last -died away, and the wreath of white smoke slowly ascended into the sky. -It was the evening gun, which is fired at sun-down. After handing over -the two patients to the proper authorities we again steamed out of -harbour. There were crowds of people again assembled along the batteries -to witness the departure of our noble ship, with the living cargo of -redcoats on board, of course wondering what caused our return. As we got -out to sea, a breeze sprung up on our larboard quarter, when all sails -were set, and soon the island faded again away into the distance, and -once more our ship was going through the waters at 15 knots, under the -influence of wind and steam; next day at six p.m., we had run 240 miles -in 24 hours. Sunday, at ten a.m., parade for divine service, which was -read by the captain of the ship; at sun-down the wind wheeled round -right in our teeth, which obliged us to take in all sail. The men were -paraded at ten a.m., next day, and between various duties, and the sharp -appetites brought on by the sea air, we managed to get over the time -very pleasantly. The band played on the quarter deck in the afternoons, -when the weather permitted; towards evening the wind veered round on our -starboard bow, and the boatswain piped all hands to make sail, but we -were doomed ere long to experience a change of weather, for the sun went -down in a clear but stormy sky, the wind piping, snoring, and howling -through the blocks and rigging, the waves thundering against our -starboard, the ship had to struggle with a south-easterly gale of such -fury, that it reminded me of a Levanter, which the Mediterreanean is -famous for; at daylight the land was made, a heavy cloud-like line just -perceptible. It was the Morea, and the men rushed on deck to see the -land. As we ran up, the snow-covered mountain peaks with cold, rocky, -barren edges, and villages of white houses dotting the declivity towards -the sea, became to us perfectly distinct. - -At 8 a.m. we passed Cape Matapan; although the old reputation of this -cape was not sustained by our destruction, still the sea showed every -inclination to be troublesome, the wind kept rising every moment. At ten -a.m. we were passing between the Morea and Cerigo; we had a proof that -the Greeks were nearly right about the weather. Even bolder sailors than -the ancients fear the heavy squalls off those snowy headlands, which -gave us but a poor idea of sunny Greece. - -The ancient Greeks always considered a voyage round Capes Matapan and -St. Angelo fraught with great danger. As we rounded the angle of the -cape the wind rushed at us with much fury; we saw the sea rushing with -crests of white foam right on our starboard bow. Its violence was -terrific, the sea was rolling in wondrous waves towards the ship; she -behaved nobly and went over them with the greatest ease. The gusts came -down furiously between the little islands, which we could not make out -or did not know the names. The men bore up well against this furious -storm, although they were all sea-sick but never absent when the grog -bugle sounded at twelve o'clock. - -The night came upon us and the ship labouring on, dashing the sea into -white spray in the darkness. At day light next morning the sight was -most discouraging, the clouds were black and low, the sea white and -high, and between them on the horizon was a mass of a broken character -so that one could not be known from the other. We passed Milo at 9 p.m., -and the gale increased; afterwards at 10 a.m., when the wind changed one -point aft and the ship rolled very much, the deck was inclined to so -sharp an angle that we could only hold on by a tight grip of the stays -and ropes. The sea breaking over the ship swept several of the horse -stalls loose about the deck, and the poor animals lay helpless against -the bulwarks. About twelve o'clock the wind went down and the sun burst -forth, sending his golden warm rays through the clouds, when the -artillery men picked up their horses and put everything in its place -again. We passed the Greek coast trending away to the left, showing in -rugged masses of mountains capped by snowy peaks, and occasionally some -good sized towns were visible on the dark brown hill side, with several -windmills along the beach. With some exceptions, the isles of Greece -rather disappoint the lovers of the picturesque; seen from the sea they -are more or less bold and barren, abounding with sterile rocks almost -entirely devoid of wood, except a stunted olive tree here and there, and -clothed with a kind of reddish-brown grass. The Candian mountains are -perhaps the most striking features which we encountered in our progress -through what the sailors call "the arches," As we swept through the -"Thermian Passage," accompanied in our course by several ancient-looking -craft with little white sails stretching outwards, resembling the wings -of Icarus, and others of no less ancient model, with lofty prow and -solitary square rigged mast. On the left lay the Gulf of Athens, on our -right rose the snowy heights of Mount Ida, 5,400 feet above the level of -the sea, to the north the lofty Lemnos. At three p.m. we passed the -castles of the Dardanelles and the Hellespont; we were not stopped nor -fired at as in days of yore. As we passed Gallipoli, about seven p.m., -we could see a collection of red-roofed houses, with tall minarets -rising up amongst them. From the entrance of the Dardanelles to -Gallipoli the straits are very narrow, not more than a quarter of a mile -in some places. We ran along close to the bank on the European side; its -breadth opposite the town of Gallipoli is about four miles, and it -expands towards the Sea of Marmora. As the ship ran along the banks we -could see large herds of goats and small black sheep feeding on the high -rocks along the edge of the river. Night was closing on us and, as we -passed the numerous forts on the European side the sentries yelled out -strange challenges and burned blue lights, and blue lights answered from -our ship in return, so that it looked to us a strange spectacle. The -lights were put out and our eyes are as blind as owls in day light, but -our eyes soon recover, the stars at last begin to twinkle, and we see a -little around us. All night we were crossing the Sea of Marmora with a -strong current against us. - -[Illustration: BANKS OF THE DARDANELLES.] - -Next morning, after breakfast we came in sight of Constantinople; at ten -a.m. we passed the Seven Towers on our left, with Seraglio Point just -before us; at 10.30 we cast anchor with hundreds of other vessels at the -mouth of the Golden Horn. Steam ferry-boats of the English kind were -passing to and fro, and caiques flitted in and out with the dexterity -and swiftness of a sea-gull. As we cast anchor, a small brig coming down -stream ran foul of us on the starboard bow, snap and crash went her -bowsprit and yard, causing considerable damage to our bulwarks and -stays; this accident detained us two hours. The stream runs so swiftly -down the channel that vessels frequently ran foul, sometimes causing -serious damage. We notice passing back and forward from Stamboul to -Pera, caiques with Turkish women wearing white clothes, and staring at -us out of two black holes in their yashmak. At twelve o'clock we weighed -anchor and continued our course through the Bosphorus. The scenery is of -almost unrivalled beauty and the panorama of which Constantinople forms -the principal part, is such as is perhaps nowhere else to be seen in the -world. - -[Illustration: A TURKISH LADY.] - -As we proceeded up the stream and looked back, the view of the Marmora, -as we leave it behind, is very fine. On the opposite Asiatic shore Mount -Olympus, 8,800 feet high, with its snow-crowned summit fades away into -the blue of the heavens, while the Imperial Palace of the Seraglio, St. -Sophia's Mosque, and others of less proportions, stud the banks in -unbroken lines from the very foot of the forts which command the -entrance up to the crowning glory of the scene, where the Imperial City -of Constantine, rising in many coloured terraces from the verge of the -Golden Horn, confuses the eye with its numerous gardens, cypresses, -mosques and palaces, its masses of foliage and red roofs surmounted by -snow-white minarets with golden tops. The residences of the Pashas, the -Imperial palaces of the Sultan, and the retreats of opulence, line these -favoured shores. As the ship ran along we could see the Turks sitting -cross-legged like tailors on their verandahs smoking away and looking as -like each other as if they were twins. The windows of these houses are -closely latticed and fastened, but here and there can be seen a -white-faced lady, with gay coloured robe, peeping through the jalousies, -showing that the harem is occupied by the fair sex. These dwellings -succeed each other the whole length of the Bosphorus, and at places such -as Buyukdere they are numerous enough to form large villages, provided -with hotels, shops, and lodging houses. - -[Illustration: THE SULTAN'S PALACE, SERAGLIO POINT.] - -The Turks delight in sitting out on the platform over the water while -they smoke their chibouque, and the greatest object of Turkish ambition -is to enjoy the pleasure of a residence on the banks of the Bosphorus. -These waters abound in fish, and shoals of porpoises and dolphins -disport on its surface, splashing and playing about with ease as they -swim against its rapid stream. - -I noticed the Turks never took the least notice of us as we arrived; so -we departed in silence, and, as far as the Turks were concerned, in -solitude. The boatmen scarcely turned their heads to look at the -majestic steamer with her deck covered with British troops, crossing the -broad, rough, and stormy seas to fight for these lazy, indifferent -orientals, who would scarcely turn their heads to look at us, much less -give us a cheer as we departed from the Sultan's Sublime Porte. - -[Illustration: THE SULTAN.] - -As we pass the batteries which mark the opening of the Bosphorus into -the Euxine, we cheer the Turkish sentries as we shoot past them into the -Black Sea, and soon the land is shut out. A fog, a drifting, clammy, -mist, cold and rain, fall down on us like a shroud, and as the night -closes in, it damps out the stars and all the light of heaven, and -steals down yard, mast and stays; this is genuine Black Sea weather. - -In the morning the same haze continued with drifting cold wind; after -breakfast we commenced to sharpen our swords and bayonets in order to -have them ready to serve out to the Russians in a professional manner, -and with as little pain and torture as we possibly could; the -grinding-stones were furnished by the sailors;—this occupied the whole -day. The morning dawned; the sun, red and stormy, glared from an angry -sky, over a rugged outline of coast not more than twenty-five miles -distant, and lighted up by white capped waves which plunged athwart the -ship's course. As we neared the land the captain and officers stood -forward with their telescopes in hand. Where was the desired haven? was -now the subject of conversation, not a sign of an opening was -distinguished in that formidable rock, which the telescope scanned from -end to end; but at last the captain sighted a ruined tower upon a cliff -somewhat lower than the rest with a union-jack flying. - -It was not long before the masts of a man-of-war just visible above the -high rocks which marked the narrow entrance into Balaklava harbour, was -seen; up went our number, but in vain we looked for an answer. We -entered the small, deep harbour through a very narrow passage which was -crowded with shipping. We ran up close alongside the ledge of a steep -rock on the left side of the harbour, in twenty fathoms of water, and -made fast to iron hooks fixed in the rock for that purpose. - - - - -[Illustration] - -CHAPTER XIV. - - DISEMBARKATION—FIRST BIVOUAC—THE MARCH—ARRIVAL—SEBASTOPOL—THE - TRENCHES—FIRST MAN WOUNDED—RETURN TO CAMP—AN ALARM—LORD RAGLAN— - SORTIE—FORAGING—THE OLD BRIDGE—COLONEL COLE—THE SIEGE. - - -December 15th, 1854, at 2 o'clock p.m., the regiment disembarked, in -heavy marching order, at Balaklava, having been served out with the -following articles of camp equipage previously, which we carried to the -front, consisting of one circular tent complete to every sixteen men, -one camp-kettle, frying-pan, axe, hand-saw, spade, shovel, and two -billocks to each mess, one blanket to each man, with three days' ship -rations. - -The command being given, we marched, distributing the camp equipage -amongst the men of the company. The rain poured on us as we waded knee -deep through the mud, making the best of our way among the heaps of -forage and stores, which lay under the rain and exposed to the weather, -without cover of any kind, all around Balaklava. We were obliged to halt -outside the town, on account of the heavy rain, and pitch our camp on -the side of Kadikoi Hill for the night. Before we got our tents pitched -we got saturated with rain to our very skins. We had cold comfort that -night, in wet clothes and blankets lying on the damp ground; everything -wet except our ammunition which we always managed to keep dry;—we had -not even a light in our tents. At 9 o'clock, after posting the piquet -sentries around our camp, we lay down;—this was a good receipt for -rheumatism, and it required a strong constitution to bear up. At -reveillé next morning we were on the alert, eat some biscuits without -water, alas, there was no water near our camp, and marched off. After -marching four miles through a slough of Balaklava mud, which it is -impossible to describe, we pitched our camp on the most favourable spot -we could find, and close to a stream of water; having indulged in the -latter beverage very copiously, with some hard biscuits, we turned into -our tent, always placing sentries around our camp. The flashes from the -guns of Sebastopol lighting up our camp, we lay down as we did the night -before, in our wet clothes, overcoat and blanket. Our slumbers were -frequently disturbed during the night by the thundering of the guns of -Sebastopol. At 6 a.m. we tried to make a camp-fire, and get some hot -coffee previous to our departure, but we failed in the attempt; several -foraging parties scoured the neighbourhood searching for some wood or -brambles to make a fire with, but could not find any; so we drank plenty -of water from the stream, and filled our kegs with the blessed fluid. -After eating some hard biscuit, we struck our tents and resumed our -march to the front. As we proceeded through the "slough of despond," we -marched through the French camp, when the French soldiers turned out and -cheered us, their bands playing "God save the Queen" as we passed their -camp, which we responded to in a most friendly manner. We arrived at the -4th Division, to which we were posted, at two p.m., after wading through -slush and mud the whole way, sinking knee-deep at every step, and were -shown our camp grounds on Cathcart's Hill, with the honour of being the -front regiment of the 4th Division. - -Before we had our tents pitched, two-thirds of the regiment were -detailed for the trenches that night; several men reported themselves -sick, having caught severe colds from sleeping in their wet clothes on -the damp ground the two previous nights, together with the heavy -fatiguing march from Balaklava, on, I might say, an empty stomach, for -we had nothing to eat or drink from the time we disembarked, except hard -biscuit and cold water. We could not eat raw pork just then, this told -on the men's constitutions; although their pluck was good they had to -give in; they were sent to the hospital tent. After we had finished -tent-pitching, I was anxious to see Sebastopol and its surroundings. I -went to the top of Cathcart's Hill, where I had a splendid view along -the whole line of trenches from Kamiesch Bay to the Tchernaya River -enclosing Sebastopol, which shone white and clear in the sun. I could -see a large Russian camp defended by earth-works on the north side of -the harbour, and large masses of Russians on parade outside the camp. At -sun down the covering party were paraded on the brigade grounds, and, -after dark, marched for the first time to face the Muscovite, a field -officer in charge, each party with their officers. Marching down, the -Russians opened a heavy fire; at every flash we all lay down until the -round shot passed over, in this way we dodged them until we relieved the -party in the trenches; during the time of relieving, the enemy always -opened a heavy fire—they knew the time our relief took place after -taking charge of the trenches. One hundred men were told off to build -batteries in the second parallel, and cutting advancing trenches. -We were formed into gangs of twelve men, each in charge of a -non-commissioned officer, with officers superintending the whole, the -work having been laid out by the Royal Engineers. We worked hard under -shot, shell, grape and canister, until twelve, when the grog was served, -each man getting a half gill of rum, which gladdened our hearts and gave -fresh strength to proceed with our work. While we were working, a man -was placed on the look-out for the flashes of the guns, and when he saw -one gave the word "down," when we lay down in the trench; if it was a -shell, got behind the traverse. - -The flashes from our guns and mortars gave us light to carry on our work -when the night was dark. In the morning we felt hungry, but had nothing -to eat or drink except biscuit and cold water, unless we eat raw pork, -which some could not do then; a man does not know what he can eat until -he is driven to it, which was shown afterwards. The Russians kept up a -steady fire during the night from the Garden and Crows' Nest batteries, -which our batteries responded to with a powerful fire. During the day we -tried several shots with the "Old Brown Bess" at some working parties -who were throwing up earth-works about 800 yards distance, but could not -reach them. Oh, how I wished to have a good Enfield rifle then instead -of the smooth bore which we were armed with. A Russian shell burst close -to us, a splinter of which struck one of our grenadiers named Chas. -O'Maley, causing a deep wound in his head; this was the first blood shed -in the regiment; his wound was dressed by the doctor who was in -attendance at the Green Hill trench. Being relieved by a fresh party at -sun-down we marched to camp under the darkness of the evening. There we -indulged in our usual meal of raw pork, biscuits, and cold water. -Several parties had been foraging for wood, or roots, or anything to -make a fire, but could get nothing; therefore we had to lie down in our -tent, our feet to the pole, knapsack under our head, and fully -accoutred, with our blankets round us on the wet ground, without a fire -or any warm food. We were never allowed to take off our accoutrements at -night. During the night an alarm was given that the enemy had advanced -on our trenches in large force, when we turned out and marched down. As -we advanced on the trenches the cracking of musketry and roaring of -cannon was deafening, the flashes lighting up the way as we doubled to -the trenches. When we reached the Green Hill trench, the enemy had been -repulsed with great loss; several Russians lay dead and wounded on the -field, and in the trenches our loss was comparatively light, four men -killed and nine wounded. We then returned to camp and lay down in peace -till morning, wet and tired. At eight a.m., next morning, Lord Raglan -and his staff visited our camp, when the men turned out; he inspected -the camp and was well pleased with the appearance of the men. After the -usual breakfast of salt pork and biscuit, all available men, after -furnishing the trenches, were employed in carrying round shot and shell -from the divisional depôt to the trenches. - -This was very hard work; each man carried a round shot in a biscuit-bag -on his back, sinking deep in the usual mud at every step: this and -dragging big guns into position occupied the whole day. The sortie last -night was not on our trenches alone, on the left the enemy did more -damage; in front of the left attack there are some trenches which run -down the edge of the ravine from the harbour which divides the town from -the military barracks; the continuation of this ravine divides the third -division from the French lines. In order to guard this ravine the -sentries of the French and English ought to be in communication. The -Russians followed this ravine and got past our sentries, who took them -to be French, as their officers commanded their men in French, to throw -our men off their guard; in this way they succeeded in getting past our -sentries on the extreme left, bayoneted them and got into the trenches -before they were recognised as Russians, killing and wounding a number, -a major of the 50th among the latter, and taking two officers and -sixteen men prisoners. When their treachery was detected, they were soon -driven back with considerable loss; several Russians were found dead and -wounded in the ravine. Next morning a small party of six started off on -a foraging _reconnaissance_ to the valley of the Tchernaya River in -search of wood, taking our water-keg straps with us; as we passed down a -deep ravine beyond Inkermann heights we saw lying in the bottom of the -ravine over twenty dead Russians who were buried there, the little earth -which they had been covered with was washed away by the heavy rains; -they were lying in their clothes as they were shot, presenting a most -ghastly spectacle. We proceeded to an old bridge, climbing up the side -of a steep hill, on the top of which was a Russian battery. We commenced -cutting the trees and bushes which grew on the hill side and throwing -them down to the bottom. We were not long cutting as much as our straps -would hold. We tied up our bundles and quietly escaped along the edge of -the ravine lest the Russians might detect us; if they did, it was the -last of us, we were close under their batteries but we got away safely. -When we got to our camp there were glad faces when they saw the loads of -wood; it was soon chopped up by the men, while others lit the fire and -filled the camp-kettles with pork and put them on the fire. The smoke -from the fires caused many of the officers to come and see what was up, -they were agreeably surprised to see the fires and the camp-kettles -boiling. After we had cooked a sufficient quantity of salt beef and pork -and prepared coffee, we invited the officers to use the fires, which -invitation they most thankfully accepted. We had plenty of hot coffee, -salt beef and pork that day, skimming the fat and stowing it away for -future use, When the cooking was over we put out the fires, collecting -the embers together with the wood we had left to cook our breakfast; -this was the first hot food we tasted since our disembarkation at -Balaklava. We had hard frost last night and were employed getting up -guns and mortars to the front; if this frost continues we will soon have -all the guns and mortars in position. - -[Illustration: A WONDERFUL ESCAPE.] - -The Russian batteries were nearly silent last night on our attack, but a -brisk fire was kept up on the right, Colonel Macpherson, C.B., has been -promoted to Brigadier in the 4th Division, and Colonel Cole takes -command of the 17th Regiment; Sir Edmund Lyons has taken command of the -fleet, vice Admiral Dundas who proceeds to Constantinople. Our regiment -is hard worked; we find two-thirds of the regiment for the trenches -every night, the others of the division being reduced by sickness and -death, and ere long we will have many sick too, if things go on as they -are at present. Parading for the trenches yesterday evening, ten men -reported sick with dysentery, brought on by exposure and lying on the -wet ground in damp clothing, and want of warm food; they were admitted -into the hospital tent. - -All the Russians seem to think of, is getting up guns in position in -every possible direction along our approaches. Last night in carrying -earth to a battery on the left of second parallel, I picked from among -the rocks something from a hole and thought it was a stone; in -attempting to lift it, I stuck my fingers into a dead man's eyes: my -sense of smell detected the mistake, I stepped back to wheeling -distance, the smell was abominable; ever since, when I think of it I -fancy I smell it. I was orderly next day. An orderly from each tent -collects the water kegs of their tent, and takes them down to a ravine -near the Woronzoff road where a small stream of water, the thickness of -a ramrod, springs from a fissure in the rock; this spring supplies the -2nd, 4th and Light Divisions, as well as a division of the French and -Turks, with water; and as the orderly men arrive, they fall in rear of -each other, forming a line waiting for their turn, and not unfrequently -the French and English fight for the first turn, the Turks sitting on a -stone at a distance, looking on, and waiting till the last. I saw one of -our men and a big French Dragoon fighting with their fists, when the -soldier beat the Frenchman, of course, knocking him down several times; -afterwards the French kept away until our men got served. - -Little was done in camp to-day, the state of the roads presented the -greatest obstacles to the transport of shot and shell, and all that -could be effected was to get up scanty supplies of pork, beef, biscuit, -and rum, to our camp; the rain, sleet, and snow, fell heavily. The cold, -wet, and slush in and round camp is truly fearful. - -A captain of the Royal Artillery was found dead in his tent, suffocated -by the fumes of a charcoal fire he had lighted. - -Christmas and New Year's day are passed, and we have had a cold, dreary, -sloppy, wet and hungry Christmas and New Year; many of our men going to -hospital and dying there. Their illness had been caused by hard work in -bad weather, and by exposure to wet without any protection. Just think -what a tent is, pitched on wet, muddy ground, with the rain beating -through the canvas, into which sixteen hungry men, drenched to the skin, -have to creep for shelter, after twenty-four hours in the trenches up to -their knees in slush, and then reflect what state we must be in, after a -night spent in such shelter, lying down without any change of clothing, -and as close as we can stow, in wet blankets covered with mud. It rained -in torrents all last night and to-day, and floods of mud are flowing -through the floors of our tents, making their way down the hill-side; -the roads are so bad as to cut off supplies to the camp, and we are -accordingly placed on half rations; the horses and mules get stuck in -the mud bringing up provisions from Balaklava, and there they lie and -die, and the men are dying off faster than the horses, and the Turks -dying by the dozen. - -Hostilities are almost at a standstill in the trenches; the men are too -feeble to work the guns. It is reported the Russians are suffering still -more than we are, but they are more numerous, and can afford to lose -twenty to our one. - - -THE CRIMEAN WAR. - - When from Balaklava to the front we go, - The Chersonese are covered with mud and snow, - Where the horse, the mule, and the Turk have stuck, - Transporting provisions for our British pluck. - - Where the tents are blown down with the furious blast, - And the rain pours down immensely fast, - And the shivering soldier in the trenches stood, - With his dripping clothes to chill his blood. - - And the noble officer brought up with care, - In his wet and dismal tent, without dread or fear; - Or a covering party with their rifles in hand, - Marching to the trenches a melancholy band. - - Or, when in camp without fire or mill, - To roast their coffee or to grind it, still - The commissariat to economise expense, - Issued the troops green coffee! to show their sense. - - To roast and grind as best they could, - Issuing neither mill nor wood; - Our lines of soldiers marching rank entire, - Bearing shot and shell, too, at the Russians' fire. - - Or the distant Cossack over the hills doth glow, - As winter wraps the Tchernaya Valley with snow, - And Prince Menschikoff in the Great Redan he stood, - Giving the Muscovites orders for to shed our blood. - - And Sir Wm. Codrington on Cathcart's Hill, - Giving forth his orders to his gallant men, - Yonder the British Navy riding in the gale, - Idly waiting orders to spread sail. - - T. FAUGHNAN. - - -[Illustration] - - - - -[Illustration] - -CHAPTER XV. - - MARCH TO BALAKLAVA—RETURN—MEN GO BARE-FOOTED—SNOW FIVE FEET - DEEP—LONG BOOTS—HARD FROST—CAVALRY DIVISION—BURIAL GROUND— - SOLITARY PROCESSION—MEN FROZEN—I BUILT A HUT—GREEN COFFEE— - WINTRY APPEARANCE—DEAD HORSES—63RD REGIMENT—CARRYING PROVISIONS— - FRENCH SICK. - - -January 6th, Captain John Croker, with six men of his company, went down -to Balaklava for some cooked pork, which had been kindly sent out from -England to us. The captain took a mule to carry back a bag of charcoal. -After we got the pork from the steamer, and the captain his charcoal on -the mule's back, we started for camp. We had proceeded about three miles -when we got faint with hunger, weary and wet, the mud being knee deep, -and the load sinking us into the mire at every step. We requested the -captain to let us have some of the pork to eat, this he willingly -complied with, as he was hungry himself. We opened the bags and divided -a four pound piece between every two men, the captain taking his share -also; this gave us new strength to accomplish our task, and also to help -the mule out of the slough. Sleet, snow and rain beat in our faces all -the way; we did not reach camp till twelve o'clock that night. This was -the hardest fatigue—up to our knees in mud with a heavy load on our -backs—I ever performed. After we got to camp the captain gave us each a -glass of Hennessey's brandy from a case which he got out from Ireland as -a Christmas-box. I believe that brandy saved us from a severe illness, -as we had to lie down in our wet clothes. As we were coming up from -Balaklava, we saw the 39th Regiment which had just landed, preparing to -join the camp before Sebastopol. They were well provided against the -severity of the weather; they had all received warm clothing, and looked -comfortable in their fur caps and long boots; but the 17th Regiment had -not received a single article of warm clothing yet. Our old clothes are -in rags and tatters, even our boots are scarcely any protection, the -leather having shrunk with the continual wet, and the men's feet having -swelled with the cold, so that some men could not get their boots on and -had to go in the trenches and about the camp bare-footed; this is hard -to believe, but nevertheless it is true. January 9th. It had been -snowing for the last three days, and this morning the whole of the -mountains over Balaklava and along the valley of the Tchernaya River are -clothed in a sheet of white, the snow being on the ground to the depth -of three feet and in some places over five feet; the cold was increased -by a piercing high wind which blew into our very marrow bones. If we -were only well clad this weather would, however, be far more healthy -than the wet and storm we have had recently, but, alas, we are not -properly provided with outer garments to resist the severity of the -Crimean winter. I cannot conceive greater hardship than to stand in the -trenches twenty-four hours, then return cramped and nearly frozen, to -our damp, cheerless tents to find that there is no fire nor wood to cook -any victuals, nor even a drink of warm coffee. What we require most of -all are long boots to protect our feet and legs; most of the officers -have got long boots, and find them invaluable. Our mitts are worn out -and unserviceable; I made a pair out of a piece of my blanket, which I -find answers the purpose admirably, of course it was robbing Peter to -pay Paul; it shortened my blanket somewhat. Several men, however, have -followed my example. - -It has been freezing extremely hard these two last nights, and this -morning a man was found frozen in my tent. His name was George Murphin, -he was a good soldier; he lay down, as we all did, and went to -sleep—and never woke. When the orderly was rousing the men, this man -was found frozen stiff in death. There has been over one hundred men -admitted into hospital from the trenches these last twenty-four hours, -seized with cramps and nearly frozen—all from the want of clothing. The -cavalry division lost about fifty horses within the last three days, and -I dread to think of the number of men who will die if this weather -continues long. The commissariat mules and horses are dying off very -fast, and the men seem likely to follow, if there is not something done -soon to protect the army from the inclemency of the weather, of which we -are more afraid than of the Russians. It is the wish of every officer -and man in the camp that Lord Raglan would march the whole army against -Sebastopol, and let us take it or die in the attempt—we had better die -in battle than die with cold, starvation and sickness. We are of opinion -that we would not lose so many men in taking it as we are now losing -daily by sickness and the want of food and clothes. A new burial ground -having been opened about two hundred yards to the right front of our -regiment, on the side of the hill, frequently may be seen passing our -tents, every day, four soldiers slowly winding their way towards this -grave-yard, with a corpse sewed up in a blanket, carried on a stretcher -on the men's shoulders—no person accompanying the solitary funeral—and -buried without the ordinary military honours of three rounds of blank -fired over him. The burials are too numerous to pay the usual honours, -besides, we have not the men to spare; all available for duty are either -in the trenches or carrying shot, shell or provisions. The men's spirits -are broken down, and they march along with a load on their back, in -solemn silence, regardless of anything, not even looking to the right or -left, resigning themselves to death which they daily expect, who is -following quickly in their footsteps, not by shot from the Russians, but -by a slower and surer torture—starvation and cold. When I saw so many -men freezing to death, I began to talk to myself thus, "Tom Faughnan, -are you going to make no exertion to save yourself from being frozen to -death, as some of your comrades have been, and are now buried yonder, on -the hill-side? If you get shot by the enemy it is what you expected when -you came out here, and is a soldier's death, fighting the battles for -the honour and glory of your Queen and country." As I was walking round -the tent-pole to keep my blood in circulation, the temperature being -many degrees below zero, I held the above soliloquy. A happy thought -struck me, and I carried it out, which I believe saved my life. I took a -pick-axe and shovel and commenced to build a hut in rear of the -company's tents. I worked at it every spare moment until I had a hole -dug nine feet long by six wide, and four feet deep, cutting the inside -walls straight down, and facing them with stones to a height of two feet -above the ground, which left the inside of the hut six feet high, -building a fireplace and chimney in the end. I then got my comrade, -Dandy Russell, to accompany me to the old bridge at the Tchernaya River, -where I climbed up a steep hill, close to a Russian battery, where we -got wood on a former occasion, and there I got enough of wood to roof my -hut. Having filled our straps with the best we could find, we started -for our camp, escaping the Russians who were just above us on the hill. -When we got to camp I commenced to roof the hut, cutting the rafters and -tying them at the top with some gads made out of willows cut for that -purpose. Having the rafters secured along the top, I stretched some -small sticks along the sides of the roof, securing them also, and then -laying branches over all. I then cut sods in a ravine, carried them to -the hut, laid them on the top of the branches, and covered the whole -with earth, smoothing it over with the back of the spade, as I would a -potato pit in Ireland, to throw off the rain, cutting a trench round it -to carry off the water. I made steps going down, and I got a flag to fit -the door, so my Irish experience stood to me here. We frequently went to -the old bridge for wood, but ran the risk of being shot by the Russians -every time. By this means we managed to get wood enough to keep a fire -in our hut, and were comfortable while the men were freezing to death in -their tents. Dandy and I managed to get on trench duty alternately, so -as to leave one of us to look after the hut, and prepare the meals for -the other after coming off trench duty. - -Having been served with green coffee by the commissariat, and having no -means of roasting or grinding it, we had accumulated a large bagful. Now -we procured the half of a large exploded shell, and with a nine pound -shot we ground the coffee in the shell, after roasting it on a frying -pan; most of the men threw their green coffee away, having no means of -roasting or grinding. There has been a good deal of firing going on -between the French and Russians on the right attack, and the Grenadier -Guards had it very hot last night, from a new masked battery the -Russians opened on the right near Canrobert's Redoubt. There are three -large columns of Russians visible opposite Inkerman on the north side of -the Tchernaya, and their movements are very mysterious. They have sent a -large body of cavalry to the east of the valley of Balaklava, and at the -same time a body of infantry moved off towards the north. The scenery of -our camp-ground and the country has now assumed a truly wintry aspect. -The lofty peaks and ridges which close up the valley of Balaklava are -covered with snow, which gives them the appearance of great height; in -the valley and plateau the snow is over three feet deep, and streaked by -lines of men and horses carrying up provisions to the camp. The number -of dead horses on the wayside increases daily, every slough across the -path is marked by a dead horse or mule. At the present rate of mortality -the whole division, which can only muster about 600 horses, will be -almost extinct in one month more. I went over the camp of the 63rd -Regiment, to see a first cousin of mine, named Philip McGurn. I was -sorry to learn that he had been severely wounded in the thigh by a piece -of a shell, and was sent down to Scutari hospital. The regiment could -only muster twelve men for duty, the remainder were either killed or -died from sickness in hospital. The 46th Regiment have only about fifty -men fit for duty; the Scots Fusilier Guards have lost, since they came -out, upwards of 1000 men, and can now only muster about three hundred on -parade; and many other regiments in a like proportion. - -The duty of carrying provisions and rum from Balaklava to the front is -very trying on the men; every two men carry a beaker of rum, biscuit or -pork, slung from a pole between them; they march about six miles in this -manner, from Balaklava to Head Quarters; horses cannot do this trying -work, for they cannot keep their legs, and almost every hundred yards -along the way is marked by the carcase of one of these animals. I passed -through the French Camp, on my way foraging for wood, and went into -several of the men's tents, and was surprised to see the misery they -were in. It must not be inferred that the French soldiers are healthy, -whilst we are all sickly. I was astonished to see so many lying sick in -their tents, and dying with dysentery, diarrhÅ“a, scurvy, and pulmonary -complaints. Their men were allowed to lie sick in their tents, which -differ from us very much; when our men get sick, they are sent to -hospital at once, and there attended by a doctor. - -January 14th.—It is thawing fast to-day, and the roads are resuming -their former sloppy state, which has increased the difficulties of -supplying the men considerably. - -The cavalry are getting up sheds for their horses, and sheep-skin coats -have been distributed to some of the men. I wonder when the 17th -Regiment are going to get any warm clothing, or sheep-skin coats? Some -officers it is true, have got some warm jackets, and not before they -wanted them. This week large quantities of clothing were served to some -of the regiments. It must not, however, be imagined that the supplies -sent up are equal to the demand; several regiments have not received a -stitch yet, although large quantities have been sent out from England. -Whose fault is it? The sick in the hospitals, on the hill tops, suffer -severely from cold, and the snow blows into their very blankets. -However, such supplies as the men have had prove of the greatest -service, and have saved many lives. Consider what men suffer with snow -three feet deep about the tents. The men scarcely know what fuel is in -many regiments; they break up empty pork barrels and anything that will -burn to cook their meals, or grub into the earth for roots and stumps to -make a fire. This is enough to make the poor, worn-out, exhausted -soldier despair before he sinks to rest; sigh that he cannot share the -sure triumph and certain honour and glories of the day when our flag -shall wave from the citadel of Sebastopol! Although our patience is -sorely tried, yet there is no deep despair here among the troops; no one -for an instant feels the slightest doubt of ultimate success. - -If British courage, daring, bravery and a strong arm in the fight, -contempt of death and love for our Most Gracious Sovereign Lady the -Queen and our country; if honour and glory could have won Sebastopol, it -had been ours long ago, and may be ours at any time. We are prepared for -a dreadful sacrifice, and not one of us for an instant has the least -misgiving as to the result. But let our country at least feel that the -soldiers now lying on the wet ground before Sebastopol, starving and in -rags, deserve at her hands the greenest and the brightest laurels and -rewards, and we trust that she may be prepared to reward those gallant, -noble officers and soldiers, who in such a position deserve the highest -honour she can confer upon them. Let England know them, as the -descendants of that glorious army (led by their illustrious chief His -Grace the Duke of Wellington) who thwarted the great Buonaparte in Spain -and Portugal, who fought at Quatre-Bras, Ligny, and Waterloo; and let -England recollect that in fighting her battles against a powerful enemy -at that time, we have now to maintain a struggle with foes still more -stubborn and barbarous, with a terrible climate, and if they triumphed -over the one she may rest assured, as we are, that she will triumph over -the other. - -With regard to the prospects of the Russians, there can be no doubt that -means of communication exist between Inkerman and Sebastopol along the -south banks of the estuary of the Tchernaya. It is necessary that more -decisive steps be taken to intercept supplies for their garrison, or to -harass them more in their attempts to bring provisions to the city. -After we seized the Woronzoff road, it was thought that no other means -of approach, except by a mountain path, existed between Simpheropol and -Sebastopol, on the south side. There can be no doubt that another road -has been found out, which enables them to go from Inkerman along the -base of the heights on the southern side, and traverse the ravines which -lead along the banks of the river into the city. - -Waggons can be seen every day coming down from the heights over the -Tchernaya river toward Sebastopol, and large bodies of the enemy are -visible, passing frequently and disappearing mysteriously into a -subterranean passage leading to the citadel. - - - - -[Illustration] - -CHAPTER XVI. - - TRENCHES—CANAL OF MUD—RUSSIAN NEW YEAR—HEAVY FIRE—ON SENTRY—THE - SORTIE—OLD BROWN BESS—SORTIE—ARRIVAL IN CAMP—NEW STYLE OF - CANDLE—FLINT AND STEEL—MAKING COFFEE—HEAVY SNOW—NO FIRE—WARM - CLOTHING—SHOT AND SHELL. - - -January 16th.—A strong party of the 17th Regiment marched to the -trenches yesterday evening, and in going down got wet to the skin. A -heavy thaw set in, and the trenches became a canal of mud; when we -arrived, we remarked that the Russians were very active inside the town, -and had lighted watchfires on the north side, and illuminated the -heights over the Tchernaya with rows of lights, in the form of a cross, -which shone brilliantly through the darkness of the cold, wet, and damp -winter's night. They were evidently celebrating their new year; light -shone from the windows of most of the houses and public buildings. Our -lonely sentries lying on the ground in front of our advanced trench, our -muskets loaded and capped, with a watchful eye on every embrasure in -front of us; we fancied that the Russians in Sebastopol tried to annoy -us with their lights and gaiety. At midnight all the church bells in the -city began ringing; it was evident that a solemn religious ceremony was -about to take place. We were all warned to be on the alert, and all our -advanced posts were strengthened accordingly. After the people came out -of the churches, about one o'clock in the morning, they gave a loud -cheer; our sailors and artillery who manned the guns in our batteries, -responded by opening a heavy fire on them, as did also the French on our -right and left, when the Russians in return began one of the fiercest -cannonades along their position that we have yet heard; their batteries -vomited forth floods of flame, which broke through the smoke as -lightning through the thunder-cloud, and we could see distinctly the -houses and buildings in the city, and their batteries crowded with -soldiers. The roaring of round shot, whistling and bursting of shells, -filled the intervals between the deafening roll of big guns. The round -shot passed over our trenches rapidly, ploughing up the ground into -furrows as they passed us by, or striking into our parapet with a thud. -Our "Blue Jackets" and artillery had to shelter themselves closely under -their batteries, and could barely reply to the volleys which ploughed up -our parapets, knocking sandbags, gabions, and fascines all about the -men's heads, and not unfrequently knocking some of them off; -nevertheless they always laid their guns correctly, sending the -destructive missile into the embrasure with a vengeance. While the -firing was going on a strong body of the enemy had been pushed up the -hill towards our works in front, on the flank of the left attack. I was -one of a chain of sentries, at twelve paces apart, lying down fifty -yards in front of our advanced trench. When we saw a strong column of -Russians coming out of their batteries and advancing up the hill, we -passed the word to each other, when the line of sentries fired on them -and retreated into the trench, giving the alarm to our men, the -field officer in charge sending back to the other parallels for -reinforcements, which arrived in good time to assist us in driving the -Russians from our works. In the meantime, the enemy had advanced into -our trenches, notwithstanding we kept blazing at them during their -advance, and standing against them, on the escarpment of our trench, -with our bayonets at the charge. They forced into our trench in large -numbers, when we had a desperate hand-to-hand fight; we were completely -jammed together, so that as we pulled the bayonet out of one we knocked -another over with the butt end of our musket. - -The officers fought bravely, cutting the Russians down with every -stroke. One officer in cutting a Russian broke his sword, which nearly -cost him his life, only for one of our men guarding off a stab from a -Russian bayonet, he would have been _hors-de-combat_. He soon picked up -a musket, however, and fought bravely with it. I was close to him as he -floored the Russians all around him. I can assure you, gentle reader, -that we all fought as becometh British soldiers, though the odds against -us were ten to one. When the enemy saw the reinforcements coming, they -began to retreat by odd ones, until at last the whole of them retired -toward their outworks in double time. We fired rapidly after them, -giving them chase up to their very batteries, and engaging with them -again in the grave-yard close to the careening battery, where we had a -very hard fight amongst the tombstones. Oh! if we had the Enfield rifle, -instead of the "Old Brown Bess." However, we closed round them in the -grave-yard, dislodging them from behind the tomb-stones, where they took -refuge, cutting off three of their party whom we took prisoners, besides -wounded men we picked up on the field and in the trenches, sending the -latter to the hospital, and the former on board the fleet. In this -affair, two officers and eighteen men were wounded, and six men killed. - -The French had also to resist a strong sortie at the same time, and -drove them back with great loss, and in pursuit got inside the Russian -advanced batteries, where they had a hand-to-hand fight, and by great -valour succeeded in fighting their way clear of the enemy, and returned -to their own trenches. At daylight all was quiet, except an odd shot now -and then as a reminder. Having been relieved that evening by the 21st -Fusiliers, we arrived in camp completely exhausted with hunger, wet and -hard fighting, our clothes being saturated, it having thawed in the -night, and now turned round to freeze, stiffening our clothes with -icicles, the noise of which, as we marched along, reminded us of the -ancient warriors in coats of mail. When I reached my hut, Dandy was -there, but no fire,—our wood had been used up; he had been roused up in -the night to reinforce the trenches, and carrying shot during the day, -he was as weary as I was. How to get a drink of hot coffee was the next -thought which troubled me, I wanted it badly indeed. What did I do? I -tore a strip off the nether end of my shirt, set it on an empty -blacking-tin with some pork fat, and lit it with a flint and steel which -I always carried in my pack (our matches being too damp to light, and -besides they were very scarce), set my canteen over the blaze with a -little water in it at first, making the coffee after the water boiled, -then adding more water; we then fried some biscuits in pork fat over the -blaze. This new invention proved very useful afterwards, not only to -Dandy and myself, but to the officers and men of the regiment; you can -scarcely imagine how quick water will boil over a blaze of this kind. - -January 19th. Frost continues with frequent showers of snow, which -enables us to get up provisions. The artillery were employed to-day with -their waggons carrying up shot, shell, and powder to the depôt. - -January 20th. We had a heavy fall of snow during the night; it is now -four feet deep over the plain. The preparations for a general -bombardment are progressing rapidly; upwards of seventy big guns and -mortars, with sea service siege guns, are all up at the depôt, and if -this frost lasts, will be in the batteries very shortly, if the frost -and snow enable us to get up heavy guns and mortars. Several men have -been frozen in their tents, and several men have been sent to hospital -from the trenches with severe frost bites and suffering from bitter cold -wind and frost. When a path has been once broken through the snow, men -and horses can get along much more easily than to wade through the deep -mud as heretofore, but the temperature is very trying in the tents, -particularly when we have no wood to make a fire. Many regiments have -been served out with fur coats, long boots, mitts, guernseys, and -flannel waistbands and socks. But alas, none of these needful articles -have reached the 17th Regiment yet, except the men in hospital, who have -received a few articles of warm clothing. It is a most melancholy -subject for reflection to see our present army. There is scarcely a -regiment to be recognised now, save by its well known camp-ground. The -officers cannot be distinguished from the privates, unless when they -wear their swords. What a harvest death has reaped, and many more are -ripe for the sickle. It is sad to see the noble officers who have been -brought up in luxury sharing the same fate as the private soldiers. I -went into an officer's tent the other day, and I was sorry to see him -(Lieutenant Brinkman) sitting in his tent shivering with cold and trying -to cut out a pair of leggings off the end of his blanket. As I helped -him to cut them out, he says: "Faughnan, they may talk at home about us -noble officers of the British army, and imagine us sitting in a snug -tent with warm clothing and gorgeous uniforms, partaking of the fare -that England has generously sent out here to her gallant officers and -soldiers, but which none of us have yet received, and I am afraid never -will, if this weather lasts long. It would be more comfortable to be a -sweep in London than an officer out here." - -We had 400 men employed to-day January 29th, carrying shot and shell -from the depôt to the trenches. The snow fell during the night and -covered the ground four feet deep, but the cold wind drifted it to the -depth of six feet in some places. The wind blew so bitterly cold that -the mules and horses refused to face it; but the men came trudging along -in a dreary string, and there was something mournful in the aspect of -the long lines moving across the expanse of glittering snow. When these -men came back to camp they had very blue noses and pale faces; and as to -their clothes, what would the people of England have thought if they -beheld their gallant army! most of the officers as ragged as the men; -and many officers have been crippled by frost and obliged to go on leave -with their feet badly frostbitten. Several men go about barefooted, up -to their knees in snow; they could not get their frozen boots on their -swelled feet. There was very severe frost last night, January 23rd. - -The activity of the heads of departments which has been recently -observable, is becoming more developed every day. Our quartermaster has -received to-day, among other useful things for the regiment, a supply of -Enfield rifles, to replace the "Old Brown Bess;" they will be served out -to the men to-morrow; also a quantity of sheepskin jackets, long boots, -guernseys, flannel waist bands, mitts, and fur caps. We are hard worked -bringing these articles up to camp; we are doing the work of -commissariat mules. As we were coming up we passed a large number of -sick and dying men who were sent down to Balaklava on mules and bat -horses; they formed one of the most ghastly processions that could be -imagined; many of these men were all but dead, with closed eyes, open -mouths, and pale haggard faces; they were borne along two on each mule, -one on each side, back to back. One of them died on the way down, his -corpse looked most ghastly. Strapped upright to the seat, the legs -hanging down stiff, the eyes staring wide open, the head and body -nodding with frightful mockery of life at each stride of the mule over -the broken ground. As the dead man passed, the only remarks our men made -were, "there is one more poor fellow out of pain at any rate." There -were several cases of frost-bite among them, but they all seemed alike -on the verge of death. We arrived at the front by six p.m.; the road -being hard, we made rapid progress to get to camp by daylight. Next -morning January 24th, we handed over to the quartermaster the old Brown -Bess, and received a splendid Enfield rifle in its stead; we also -received one pair of long boots, one fur cap each, and several received -sheepskin coats, mitts, guernseys, flannel bands, and socks, with a few -large overcoats for the sentries. It would astonish a stranger to go -from Balaklava to the front to see the number of dead horses and mules -along the wayside; in every hole are the remains of these animals torn -by dogs and vultures. The attitudes of some of the skeletons were -curious; some have dropped dead and are frozen stiff as they fell; -others seem struggling to rise from their miry grave; most of these -carcasses have been skinned by the Turks and French, who use the hides -to cover their huts. About five miles of the country are dotted all over -with these carcasses, in every stage of decay. Were it summer time, -around Balaklava would be a great pest-house, full of festering -carcasses of dead mules and horses. The evening after we were served out -with new rifles, long boots and fur caps, the 17th Regiment furnished -400 men for the trenches. The weather was clear, dry and cold, but we do -not care now for the cold, since we got our long boots, fur caps, and -warm clothing to protect us from the sharp biting frost. We are in -splendid spirits, and felt comfortable during the night in our new boots -and fur caps. After we arrived in the trenches, the Russians opened a -storm of musketry on us, as if they knew we were armed with the Enfield -rifle, and were anxious for us to try it, which we soon did, to their -astonishment. The Russian fire was particularly directed against our -works the whole night; after daylight the firing recommenced with great -vigour, all along our lines. There could be no less than 3000 men -engaged on each side, firing as hard as they could pull a trigger; the -lines were marked by thick, curling smoke. The fire slackened on both -sides about ten o'clock. Not a night now passes without severe -rifle-shooting from behind the parapets, and between the lines. Our -works are pushed almost within one hundred and fifty yards of the -Russian batteries, and on the left almost into the town, and its -suburbs, but the ruined houses of these suburbs are turned into defences -for their sharpshooters, and the town itself is almost one formidable -battery, from the glacis to the ridge over the sea, on which the south -side of the town is situated. Our batteries are in good order, and ready -for the heavy siege-guns, which can be put into them in a few days; as -the ground is hard we can easily get them into position. In the skirmish -last night, one Russian officer was taken prisoner on the right attack -by the 47th Regiment, who manned the trenches. We have received several -deserters from the Russians within the last week, who gave a fearful -account of how the Russians are suffering from cold and hunger; they -showed us some hard black bread they brought with them in their -haversacks. It is evident that the struggle between us and the Russians -will soon be renewed with greater vigour than before; the clear frosty -days and nights have given hearts and spirits to our men, but the -Russians have also derived advantage from the improved condition of the -roads and country. We hear they have thrown large quantities of stores -into the garrison recently. - -When I returned from the trenches Dandy had plenty of hot coffee and -fried biscuits ready for me, as well as an extra gill of hot rum. We -find our hut very comfortable these cold frosty nights, and we now get -two nights off trench duty. Notwithstanding the clear frosty weather, -the transport of clothes, fuel and provisions entails considerable -hardships on our men; the sick make little progress towards recovery, -and the number of them sent down to Balaklava every day is a proof of -the unsatisfactory condition of the health of our army. Mules and horses -have been sent down to Balaklava for warm clothing for those regiments -whose men are nearly all sick. The coffee, for the first time, has been -issued to us roasted, which we find a great luxury compared to how we -have been getting it; vegetables, however, are greatly needed, picks, -spades, shovels and billhooks are in much request, and are greatly -needed to clear the camp, dig graves and chop wood, when we get any, but -we have got none as yet. - - -[Illustration] - - - - -[Illustration] - -CHAPTER XVII. - - THE RAILWAY—LORD RAGLAN—COSSACKS—THE NAVVIES—RUSSIAN DESERTERS— - THE RAILWAY. - - -The railway from Balaklava to the front, under Mr. Doyne, C.E., is -making rapid progress; about two miles of rails have been laid down. It -winds its way from the post-office in Balaklava towards Kadikoi, passing -by Mrs. Seacoles' well known door (the half-way house), and is graded as -far as the 4th division. The sleepers are on the ground, and will be -laid in the course of two weeks. A stationary engine has been placed on -the hill above the Kadikoi, which pulls the trucks up from Balaklava; -the Turks are astonished by the puffs of steam from its iron lungs, and -its shrieks and screams as it is put in motion by the engineers, to -their great wonder and astonishment. - -Lord Raglan visited Balaklava to-day and inspected the railway, with -which he was well pleased; he was accompanied by several staff officers. -After inspecting the progress and conditions of various departments in -the town, he went on board a man-of-war in the harbour, to visit some -sick soldiers who were going down to Scutari. He returned to Head -Quarters at six o'clock. I am sorry that sickness does not diminish, -dysentery and diarrhÅ“a seem on the increase every day, and, I am afraid -that scurvy is beginning to show itself among the troops. It is no -wonder that the men get scurvy, living on salt rations and hard biscuits -without any vegetables, sleeping in their clothes; without a chance to -wash themselves or change their clothes; water being so scarce we cannot -wash our linen. I refrain from describing the state of the army for the -want of clean linen or water to wash with; suffice it to say that -several new flannel waist bands served to the men were thrown away, and -can be seen on the camp ground, occupied by a large army in skirmishing -order. I took my canteen, water-keg and soap down to the spring one day -to wash my linen; I waited two hours for my turn, after which I filled -my canteen and water-keg. I then washed my clothes on a flat stone, then -waited two hours more for water to rinse them, making four hours in all -I had to wait. The reader can understand what difficulty the men have to -keep themselves clean. - -February 21st. The Russians made a strong sortie on the British lines -last night, and were repulsed with considerable loss; the light division -had six men killed and ten wounded. - -The Cossacks, on the hills beyond Inkerman, have nearly disappeared and -there are no indications that they intend to occupy the hills again, or -construct batteries there as was supposed. The greatest secrecy is -observed respecting our future operations; strict orders have been given -that officers and others are not to give information regarding our works -and movements but to those entitled to demand it. I was on trench duty -last night when it froze hard, with bitter cutting wind, drifting the -snow into our eyes and filling the trenches; but the sun shone out in -the morning and the wind fell. The day was clear and cold, and the warm -clothing and long boots enabled us to bear the severity of the weather, -which would have been fatal to many, had we been in the same state as -our comrades on whom winter fell with all its rigour, while they had -nothing to wear but their old regimental clothing. We are now well -secured with long boots, fur caps and warm jackets. As the day was -clear, I could see the Russians plainly, in spite of the dazzling effect -of the snow and cold. The bridge of boats across the creek, from the -government buildings to the other side of the town, was crowded with -men, who were busily engaged passing across supplies and rolling barrels -to the other side, shewing that there is a centre of supply or depôt in -the government buildings behind the Redan and opposite the fire of our -batteries. Several lighters under sail and full of men were standing -over from one side of the harbour to the other, and boats manned with -crews dressed in white were tugging scows laden with stores to the south -side of the town. A small steamer was also very active, puffing and -splurting about the harbour in all directions, furrowing the surface of -the water, which was as smooth as glass, so completely is the harbour -land-locked—the men-of-war with their white ensigns and St. Andrew's -cross, lying in a line at the north side. The masts of three vessels -could be seen plainly above the buildings; further away to the right -toward Inkerman the white houses and barracks shone brightly in the sun, -and the bells of the churches were ringing out clearly in the frosty -air; the tall houses running up the hillside, with its massive, public -buildings, gave Sebastopol rather an imposing appearance. There was not -a soul to be seen in the streets except soldiers running across the open -space from one battery to another, relieving guards or posting sentries. -Outside the town the eye rests on walls of earth piled up ten or twelve -feet high and twenty feet thick, with embrasures, in which I could see -the muzzles of the guns pointing toward our batteries; those works are -of tremendous strength, with a very deep and broad ditch in front. Round -the suburbs of the town are broken-down, white-washed cottages, the -roofs of which are all gone, the doors off and the windows out, the -walls are left standing at a certain distance from the batteries with -holes made in them so that the guns can cover their object; they are -also used for sharpshooters. - -The picture of misery presented by these suburbs is very striking, in -most instances the destruction has been caused by our shot, and the -houses all round the Flagstaff and Garden batteries have been blown into -heaps of rubbish and mortar. There have been a great many shells thrown -by the Russians to-day from a mortar battery towards the sea, projecting -the shells into the air every half minute or so across a hill in front -of it, so as to annoy our working party, who were engaged in throwing up -a trench towards the Quarantine fort. The white smoke rushing into the -air expands into rings; then follows the heavy dull report; then comes -the shrill whistle of the shell travelling through the air as it -describes its curve, and descends with great velocity, increasing as it -reaches the ground, sometimes sinking deep into the earth, tearing it up -with the explosion, to the destruction of those around. It is a most -unpleasant reflection when we see a whistling Dick coming in the air, -and run out of its way behind a traverse. To how many families have they -carried deep sorrow and mourning. The smoke clears away, then men gather -around one who moves not, they bear him away on a stretcher, and a small -mound of fresh earth marks for a little time the resting-place of the -soldier, whose wife, mother, children, or sisters are left destitute of -all happiness, save the memory and the sympathy of their country. Who -will let the inmates of that desolate cottage in England, Ireland, or -Scotland, know of their bereavement? However there goes another shell -which does nothing but knock up a cloud of earth and stones. - -After being relieved, we marched to our gloomy camp under a heavy fire -from the enemy; but my hut was not so gloomy as the men's tents, it was -warm and comfortable, my comrade had a little fire, keeping my coffee -and fried biscuits warm, with a cotton rag dipped in pork fat as a -substitute for a candle. - -February 25th. The 17th Regiment was roused at two o'clock this morning -and marched down to reinforce the covering party in the trenches. The -Russians commenced one of the most furious cannonades we have heard -since the siege began. The whole of the Russian batteries from our left -opened with immense force and noise, the Redan, Garden and Malakoff -batteries began firing round shot and shell. Our second parallel and -twenty-one gun batteries were exposed to the weight of this most -terrible fire, which shook the very earth and lighted up the sky with -incessant lightning flashes for two hours, under cover of which a very -strong sortie was made, and for an hour the musketry rolled incessantly -with vigour enough for a general engagement. As soon as the fire opened, -an aide-de-camp rode to our lines and gave the order for the 17th, 57th, -and 20th Regiments to march to the trenches, and in less than five -minutes these three regiments were moving in double time toward the -trenches. On arrival, we found that the covering party had succeeded in -driving the enemy from our trenches. We then returned to our camp and -lay down for a couple of hours. The Russians had made a sortie on the -French lines at the same time, and were also driven back with great loss. - -At the request of General Ostensacken, an armistice was granted from -twelve till one o'clock to-day, to enable the Russians to bury their -dead. There was not much firing this morning; at twelve o'clock white -flags were run up on the batteries on both sides, and immediately -afterwards a body of Russians issued from the Redan, Flagstaff, and -Malakoff batteries, and proceeded to carry off their dead; and our men, -with the French, emerged from our batteries on a similar errand. A few -Russian officers advanced about half way towards our batteries, when -they were met by our officers and the French where extreme courtesy, the -interchange of profound salutations and bowings marked the interview. -The officers walked up and down, and skakos were raised and caps doffed -politely as each came near an enemy; in the meantime the soldiers were -carrying the dead and wounded off the field. About one o'clock the -Russians retired inside their batteries, and immediately after the white -flags were hauled down. The troops had scarcely disappeared over the -parapet, when the flash and roar of a gun from the Malakoff announced -that the war had begun once more, and our batteries almost -simultaneously fired a gun; in a moment afterwards the popping of rifles -commenced as usual on both sides. - -The Cossacks about Balaklava are particularly busy throwing out their -piquets and sentries all along the top of Canrobert's Hill. These -sentries can see everything that goes on in the plain, from the entrance -to Balaklava to the edge on which our right rests; not a horse, cart, or -man can go in or out of the town, without being seen by these sentries, -for they are quite visible to any person who gazes from the top of -Canrobert's Hill. The works of the railway must cause these Cossacks -very serious apprehensions. What can they, or do they, think of them? -Gradually they see villages of white huts rise up on the hillside and in -the valleys, and from the cavalry camp to the heights of Balaklava they -can see line after line of wooden buildings, and can discover the tumult -and bustle on Kadikoi. This may be all very puzzling; but it can be -nothing to the excitement of looking at the railway trucks rushing round -the hill at Kadikoi, and running down the incline to the town at the -rate of twenty miles an hour. The Cossacks gallop up to the top of the -hill to look at this phenomenon, and they caper about shaking their -lances in wonder and excitement when the trucks disappear. - -About 300 sick men were sent down to Balaklava to-day, on the ambulance -mules. - -The preparations for the general bombardment are progressing with great -rapidity, and arrangements have been made to send up two thousand pounds -of ammunition per day to the front from the harbour; about two hundred -mules have been pressed into the service in addition to the railway, and -the Highlanders, and Artillery horses are employed in the carriage of -heavy shot and shell to the front, a duty which greatly disables and -distresses them. The Guards are all down at Balaklava; some of them seem -in very delicate health; a few old campaigners have attained that happy -state in which no hardships or privations can have any effect on them. -The silence and calm of the last few days are but the omens of the -struggle which is about to be resumed very speedily for the possession -of Sebastopol. The Russians are silent, because we do not impede their -work; we are silent, because we are preparing for the contest, and are -using every energy to bring up from Balaklava the enormous amount of -projectiles and mountains of ammunition which will be required for the -service of our batteries, when we open a general bombardment. - -The railway has begun to render us some service in saving the hard -labour attendant on the transport of shot and shell, and enables us to -form a small depôt at the distance of two miles and a half from -Balaklava, which is, however, not large enough for the demands made upon -it, and it is emptied as soon as it is formed by parties from the -regiments in front, who carry ammunition to the camp depôt, four miles -further on. - -The navvies work at the railway hard and honestly, with a few -exceptions, and the dread of the provost marshal has produced a -wholesome influence on the dispositions of the refractory. About 200 men -of the Naval Brigade have been detailed to assist in the works of the -railway, in order that the construction of it may be hastened as much as -possible. - -March 4th. I was one of a covering party in the advanced trench; it was -a bright moonlight night, with sharp, cold frost. The Russians availed -themselves of the brightness of the night by keeping up a constant fire -of musketry on our trenches. At daybreak the volleys of musketry lasted -an hour, mingled with the roar of round shot, whistling and bursting of -shells, under cover of which they made a strong sortie on our trenches, -and were repulsed with heavy loss; they also made a strong sortie on the -French lines at the same time, and met no better success. General -Canrobert and staff rode past our camp to-day on his way to visit the -British Head-Quarters, where he met Lord Raglan and several generals of -our army, with whom he held a council of war, but nothing is known -publicly respecting the result of the council. - -March 6th. Yesterday our first spring meeting took place and was -numerously attended. The races came off on a level piece of ground near -the Tchernaya River, and were regarded with much interest by the -Cossacks on Canrobert's Hill. They evidently thought at first that the -assemblage was connected with some military demonstration, and galloped -about in a state of great excitement to and fro. In the midst of the -races a party of twelve Russians was seen approaching the sentry on the -old redoubt beyond Inkerman; the sentry fired and ten of them fled, and -when the piquet came up to the sentry they found two deserters had come -in from the Russians. One of them was an officer, and the other had been -an officer, but had suffered degradation. They were both Poles, spoke -French fluently, and expressed great satisfaction at their escape and -said, "Send us wherever you please, provided we never see Russia again." -They stated that they had deceived the men who were with them into the -belief that the sentry was one of their own outposts, and, as they had -lately joined, they believed them, and advanced boldly till the sentry -fired at them, when they discovered their mistake and fled. As they were -well mounted, they dashed towards our lines; the Cossacks tried to cut -them off, but did not succeed. They requested that the horses might be -sent back to the Russian lines, as they did not belong to them—they did -not wish to be accused of theft. The horses were then taken to the brow -of the hill and set free, when they galloped towards the Cossacks. The -races proceeded as usual, and subsequently towards six o'clock the crowd -dispersed. - - -[Illustration] - - - -[Illustration] - -CHAPTER XVII. - - ST. PATRICK'S DAY—RIFLE PITS—FOURTH DIVISION—FRENCH LOSS—THE - SIEGE—GENERAL ATTACK—FLAG OF TRUCE—BURYING THE DEAD—WOODEN - HUTS—TURKISH TROOPS—DIVINE SERVICE. - - -March 18th. Yesterday being St. Patrick's day, many officers and men -were to be seen early in the morning on the hill-side in search of -something green to wear as a substitute for a real shamrock, the old -symbol of Erin. In the afternoon we had horseraces to celebrate St. -Patrick's day, and show that Irishmen, though far from their native -land, had not forgotten the rights and ceremonies by which this -celebrated day was remembered by them. They were in excellent spirits, -the day was fine, and the ground dry; both officers and men enjoyed the -day's sport; the thunder of the siege guns rose up frequently above the -shouts of the crowd in the heat of the races. There has been a fierce -struggle between the French and Russians last night, for the possession -of the rifle-pits. These pits are situated in front of the Mamelon, and -the Russian sharpshooters occupy them every night, and keep up a most -galling and destructive fire against the exposed parts of the advanced -trenches of our right attack as well as that of the French. The shot of -our batteries make the rifle pits too hot a place for the Russians -during the day, but at night they come back and re-occupy them, -supported by large bodies of infantry; in these encounters the enemy has -had many men killed and wounded. These rifle pits have cost both armies -large quantities of ammunition, as well as the sacrifice of many men; -but the French are determined to wrest them from the Russians at any -cost, for they are a source of the greatest annoyance to them. They sent -a strong force of about six thousand men down close to our second and -light divisions, before dusk yesterday evening, and shortly afterwards -they were sent to the advanced trenches, on our right; the covering -party and riflemen were ordered out to occupy the rifle pits; they -advanced but found the Russians had anticipated them, and that the enemy -were already in possession of the pits. A fierce battle then commenced, -but it was found that the enemy were there in much larger force than was -expected; therefore the French could not then drive them from their -position, notwithstanding their repeated attempts to do so. The contest -was carried on by musketry, and the volleys which rang out incessantly -for five hours, roused up the whole camp. - -From the roll of musketry, and the flashing light in front, one would -have thought that a general engagement between large armies was going -on. The character of the fight had something peculiar about it, owing to -the absence of round shot or shell. About 7.30 o'clock, p.m., the 4th -division was turned out by order of the General, Sir John Campbell, and -took up its position on the hill near the Green Hill battery, and the -light division, under Sir George Brown, at the same time marched towards -the 21 gun battery; the second and third divisions were also turned out -and marched to the trenches in their front, after the French had -desisted and retired from the assault on the rifle-pits. These -divisions, after remaining under arms for five hours, were marched back -to their respective camps. Had the French required our assistance we -were ready to give it; but they were determined on taking these pits, -which are in front of their advanced trenches, without any aid from us. -The Zouaves bore the heaviest part of this battle; we could distinctly -hear their officers between the volleys of musketry, cheering on their -men, and encouraging them, and the rush of men generally followed, then -a volley of musketry was heard, followed by rapid file firing, then a -Russian cheer and more musketry. Between each volley we could hear the -officer again giving the command. This work went on for about five -hours, when the French at length retired. The French loss at this affair -was twenty officers and 200 rank and file killed, wounded and taken -prisoners; the Russian loss was over 600 killed and wounded. - -March 18th, 5 p.m. General Canrobert attended by his staff, passed down -by our right attack, and examined the position of the rifle-pits, -Malakoff and Mamelon. At twilight a strong force of French with a -battery of field pieces were moved down towards the advanced works, and -another attempt was made to take the rifle-pits, and after a hard-fought -battle they succeeded in dislodging the Russians, amid a blaze of fire -from the forts at daybreak. The French now directed a heavy fire from -these pits against the Mamelon and Malakoff, reversing the sand bags and -loop holes. - -March 23rd. The 17th Regiment furnished a working party of one hundred -men for the advanced trenches yesterday evening. At twilight, when we -got to the trenches, the engineer officer laid out the work. It was a -new trench. Every file of men got a pickaxe and shovel, and were placed -at six yards apart, on the open ground, without any shelter from the -Russian grape and canister. We placed a man on the look-out for the -flash of the guns, while we worked hard to throw up cover. About twelve -o'clock the sentries in advance of us gave the alarm, by firing upon the -advancing Russians, who came so suddenly we had scarcely time to snatch -up our rifles before they were upon us, bayoneting us before we were -prepared to receive them. When the sentries first discovered them they -were close upon us. Taken at a great disadvantage, and pressed by -superior numbers, we met them hand to hand with the bayonet; our men -fought like British lions, meeting the assault with undaunted courage. -We drove the enemy back at the point of the bayonet; pursued by our -shot, they retired under cover of their batteries. The attack was -general along the whole line. At ten, p.m., our batteries, with the -French, began to shell the town, pouring our rockets every five minutes -in streams into the city. The sentries in advance of Chapman's battery -gave the alarm also that the Russians were advancing in force on the -trenches; the 20th, 21st, 57th, and 68th Regiments were the covering -parties on the left attack. They were pretty well prepared for the -enemy. About the same time the French were attacked by columns of the -enemy. As the French were sorely pressed, our troops extended along a -portion of their trenches. On the left attack the Russians advanced in -great force, through a weak part of the trenches, turning the third -parallel; they killed and wounded several of our men, and had advanced -to the second parallel, when our covering party came down upon them and -drove them back after a sharp conflict. On the right the Russians came -on our men very suddenly. The 34th Regiment had a strong force to -contend against, and as Colonel Kelly, their commanding officer, was -leading them on, he got wounded and was taken prisoner by the Russians, -and carried off to Sebastopol. After an hour's fight the enemy were -driven back to their batteries. During this affair we had ten officers -and one hundred men placed _hors-de-combat_; the French had fifteen -officers and two hundred men killed, wounded and taken prisoners. On the -other hand, the enemy lost between seven hundred and eight hundred men. -The number of dead Russians lying along the front of our trenches proved -that they got a severe chastisement, and that they experienced a heavy -loss. - -The bodies of one officer and sixteen men remained in our trench until -next day, and in front of our trenches the ground was covered with their -dead. About one o'clock next day flags of truce were run up from the -Redan and Malakoff, and shortly after white flags were waving from the -top of ours and the French batteries. Previous to the white flags being -run up, not a soul was visible in front of the lines. The instant the -flags were hoisted, friend and foe swarmed out of the batteries and -trenches. The sight was a strange one,—the French, English and Russian -officers saluting each other most courteously as they passed, and a -constant interchange of civilities took place. But while all this -civility was going on, the soldiers of both sides were carrying off -their dead comrades from the blood-stained ground, which was covered -with strong proofs of the recent battle. There British, French and -Russian soldiers, lying as they had fallen in their gore, with broken -muskets, bayonets, pouches, belts, fragments of clothing, pools of -blood, broken gabions, fascines, and torn sand-bags, visible on every -side; and the solemn procession of soldiers, bearing their comrades to -their last resting place, looked a most ghastly spectacle. In the midst -of all this evidence of war a certain amount of lively conversation took -place between the Russians and our men, such as, "Bono Inglais, Francais -no bono, Rooso bono," and they led us to understand that they liked the -British soldiers much better than the French, although we always made it -hot for them whenever we met, for which they gave us the name of "red -devils." It took two hours to bury the dead; at the end of that time the -armistice was over, and scarcely had the white flags disappeared behind -the parapet of the Redan, before a round shot from the sailors' battery -knocked through one of their embrasures, raising a pillar of dust; the -Russians at once replied, and the roar of the big guns drowned all other -noise. It is generally believed by the officers and men, that our -batteries will open a general bombardment on Sebastopol about the tenth -of April. The greatest excitement and activity are displayed in -Balaklava, at the railway station, and all round the harbour, with -crowds of fatigue parties and labourers engaged in piling up shot and -shell, and loading the railway with ammunition, of which immense -quantities are being sent up to the front. - -The first passenger train from the front to Balaklava was one loaded -with sick soldiers, who were sent down to Balaklava. - -On the 2nd April, five trucks filled with sick and wounded men ran down -from the front in less than half an hour; the men of course were much -more comfortable than those sent down on mules during the winter. -Sickness in camp, I am glad to say, is diminishing every day; instead of -sending down a thousand men a week to Scutari, as we did a month ago, we -now despatch on an average only two hundred. - -April 6th. This evening our mortar battery fired several shells into the -Redan, and after the explosion, beams of timber, trunks of bodies, legs -and arms of human beings, were seen to fly up in the air; and after a -time a blaze of fire ran along a portion of the works, which sprang from -one of the enemy's mines. The 68th Regiment furnished one hundred men -for a working party in the advanced trench last night, and were pounced -upon by a working party of Russians, who were throwing up a trench, -within sixty yards of them, and a regular hand to hand fight ensued. The -men of the 68th who were armed with the new Enfield rifle, could not -draw their ramrods; the wood of the rifle, being new, had swelled with -the rain and continued dampness, causing the rifle to get woodbound, -this has occurred more than once to my own knowledge; therefore after -the first volley, they had no resource but to use their bayonet and butt -end of their rifle, billhooks, pickaxes, and spades, which they were -working with when the Russians came upon them. After the sentries gave -the alarm, the covering party from the third parallel came to their -assistance, and at last the Russians were repulsed after a severe -struggle. Our loss was about 60 men killed and wounded; the Russians -lost 200 men killed and wounded, out of 800 who were engaged in the -affair. I am glad to state that the 17th Regiment have got up two wooden -huts at last, one for the grenadiers and the other for the light -company; and besides, we are now getting a small supply of wood from the -commissariat department. The weather is fine, and the camp ground -getting dry. We have also got a divisional canteen established, close to -the camp of the 57th Regiment. We can now purchase several articles of -luxuries, such as butter, cheese, bread, bottled ale and porter, besides -several other useful articles, which the men require to nourish and -strengthen them, after the hardship they suffered during the severe -winter. As regards food and shelter, our men are getting better off -every day! we are getting flannel comforters now when we do not want -them. It is a pity we did not get these things last winter. All the -materials we possess now were to be had for moving them, and the -thankfulness which the survivors feel for the use of them is tinged with -bitter regret that our loved departed comrades can never share again our -present comforts. As these neat huts rise up in rows one after the -other, the eye rests sadly on the rows of humble mounds which mark the -resting-place of those who perished in their muddy blankets under a wet -and cold tent. There is not a regiment out here but has some generous -friend in the mother country, whose care and bounty have provided them -with luxuries and comforts beyond all price to the sick and declining -soldier; some have sent tobacco, cheese, arrowroot, and warm clothing. -The bounty, kindness and love of the people at home have now most -liberally contributed to the wants of the army. About 12,000 Turks have -just landed at Kamiesch Bay; they had a long march to the heights of -Balaklava. It was astonishing that so few men fell out of the ranks or -straggled behind. They had a good brass band, which astonished the -British soldiers by "Rule Britannia" as they marched past our camp; most -of the regiments were preceded by drums, fifes, and trumpets. - -The colonel and his two majors rode at the head of each regiment, richly -dressed, on small but spirited horses, covered with rich saddle-clothes, -and followed by their pipe-bearers, The mules, with the tents, marched -on the right, and the artillery on the left; each gun was drawn by six -horses; the baggage animals marched in rear. The regiments marched in -columns of companies, most of the men were armed with the old flint-lock -muskets, which were clean and bright. They all displayed rich standards -blazing with cloth of gold, and coloured flags with crescent and star -embroidered on them. All the men carried a small pack with a blanket on -top, a small piece of carpet to sit on, and cooking utensils. As they -marched along they presented a very warlike appearance, the reality of -which was enchanced by the thunder of guns at Sebastopol, and the -bursting of shells in the air. The troops attended divine service on -Easter Sunday; the Roman Catholics have erected a small chapel in the -4th division, and a priest celebrated mass outside the chapel, and -preached a most eloquent sermon. The troops were formed up in close -column by regiments, forming three sides of a square the chapel filling -up the fourth side. It was a very imposing sight; the square of soldiers -standing with fixed bayonets, and presenting arms at the elevation of -the Host, the priest in the centre, bare-headed, and his vestments -flowing in the breeze. The Protestants attend divine service in the open -air regularly on Sundays, since the chaplains to the forces have -arrived. On Easter Sunday the French had High Mass in each of their -camps, with all the pomp of military bands. On last Saturday the -regiments of the 4th division turned out every man off duty, and dug a -deep trench and built a fence round the burial ground, placing a rustic -gate at the entrance. - - - - -[Illustration] - -CHAPTER XIX. - - BOMBARDMENT—TENTS BLOWN DOWN—SIEGE—LIEUT. WILLIAMS—WOUNDED— - SAILORS—GO TO HOSPITAL—DESCRIPTION—SARDINIANS—DISCHARGED FROM - HOSPITAL—ATTACK ON QUARRIES—FLAG OF TRUCE—BURYING THE DEAD. - - -Easter Monday at daybreak, the whole line of batteries simultaneously -opened fire on Sebastopol; and as the firing commenced, the overhanging -clouds seemed to have burst with the terrific thunder of the big guns -and mortars, and the rain poured down in torrents accompanied by a high -breeze; so thick was the atmosphere that even the flashes of the guns -were invisible, and the gunners must have fired at guess work by the -flashes of the enemies' batteries, as it was impossible to see more than -a few yards in advance. A driving sheet of rain and a black sea fog -shroud the whole camp, which has resumed the miserable aspect so well -known to us already; tents have been blown down, the mud has already -become very deep, and the ground covered with slush and pools of dirty -water. Our batteries are thundering away continuously in regular bursts, -and are now firing at the rate of forty shots a minute; when they first -opened they fired eighty shots a minute, but, with the down-pouring of -rain and fog, it is hard work. As it was not necessary to press the -gunners, they have slackened the fire considerably. - -The Russians were taken completely by surprise when our batteries opened -fire. The Redan and Garden batteries came into play at once after we -opened, but some time elapsed before the Malakoff or Mamelon answered. A -sharp fusillade took place in the night between our advanced trenches -and the enemy. The piquets were reinforced on the heights of Balaklava, -and on the plain at night. - -Lord Raglan, Sir John Campbell and General Jones, R. E., as wet and -drenching as the day was, posted themselves in their favourite spot at -the Green Hill trench, whence they could get a good view along the whole -of the batteries. At five o'clock the sun descended in a dark pall, -which covered the sky, and cast a pale light upon the masses of curling -vapour across the line of batteries. The outlines of the town were -faintly visible through the mist of smoke and rain. It seemed quivering -inside the lines of fire around it. The ground beneath was lighted up by -incessant flashes of light, and long trails of smoke streamed across it -spurting up in thick volumes tinged with fire. This glimpse of the -batteries, brief though it was, proved extremely satisfactory. The -French batteries were firing with energy on the Flagstaff and Garden -batteries, which were replied to very feebly by the enemy. - -April 12. The 17th Regiment furnished 450 men for the trenches. After -being inspected at sundown by the Brigadier, Colonel McPherson, C.B., we -marched down to the Green Hill trench, under the command of a field -officer; the 68th Regiment furnished a like number. As we were relieving -the 21st and 57th Regiments, the Russians opened fire with tremendous -salvoes from their batteries. Our gunners made excellent practice, and -soon silenced several of their most troublesome guns, and at every shot -the earth was knocked up out of the enemy's parapets and embrasures; our -shell practice was not so good as it might be, on account of bad fuses. - -The French had silenced ten guns on the Flagstaff batteries, and had -inflicted great damage on the outworks. On our side we had silenced half -the guns in the Redan and Malakoff; but the Barrack and Garden Batteries -were not much injured, and kept up a brisk fire against us of round -shot. During the night the firing was very heavy on both sides; there -was a continuous roar of big guns and mortars. We discharged large -quantities of rockets into the town, and our mortars kept up a steady -fire on the Redan and Garden batteries. During the night we were greatly -exposed to the enemy's fire, for we were employed, as hard as we could -work, in patching up embrasures, platforms, and mounting big guns; we -had mounted two guns in the second parallel, broken platforms were -renewed, and damaged guns replaced by others. - -April 13th. At dawn this morning the batteries on both sides commenced -their terrible duel as usual, and it was evident that the Russians had -wonderfully exerted themselves to repair damages during the night; for -they had replaced four or five damaged guns, repaired broken embrasures -and injured parapets, and were as ready to meet our fire as we were to -meet theirs. The firing has not slackened all day; about three o'clock -we were repairing the battery on the left of the second parallel, when -the Russians opened a fierce fire of shell and round shot; one of the -latter knocked the head clean off the shoulders of one man, dashing his -brains into Captain O'Connor's face, and all over the breast of his -tunic. As he was getting the man's brains washed off his face and -clothing, a piece of shell struck Lieutenant Williams, and cut his eye -clean out of his head. As I was gazing with horror at the officer's eye -hanging down on his cheek, a piece of shell struck me on the head, -cutting through my forage cap and sinking into my skull. This was all -done in less than five minutes; the shelling was fearful. I have seen -six shells burst in the trench at one time. Lieutenant Williams and -myself, with several others, were _hors-de-combat_ for some time after. -The doctor in the Green Hill trench dressed our wounds, when we were -conducted by a couple of bandsmen to the hospital. - -The sailors have suffered severely, although they only work about forty -guns in the different batteries; they have lost more men in proportion -to their number than any of the other siege trains; at the time I got -wounded they had then seventy men killed and four wounded, besides two -officers killed and four wounded. The sailors in Chapman's battery -silenced five of the best guns in the Redan yesterday; but the Russians -replaced them during the night, and opened fire from them in the -morning. The Redan is very much damaged on the right and front face, -already four of the embrasures are knocked level with the inside of it, -but the Russians work hard repairing their batteries during the night; -they are so numerous they can spare the men; besides they have not to -carry shot and shell as far as we have. When I got to the hospital the -doctor examined my wound and dressed it and put me to bed; the first I -lay on since I left Gibraltar last year, and the first time I was ever -sick in hospital. The change seemed to me a strange one—the doctors -were so attentive and unremitting in the care of the sick and wounded -men, and so many hospital orderlies waiting on us. I did not think at -the time that I deserved such attention and kindness as they were -bestowing on me; for I often saw a man getting an uglier wound from the -crack of a shillally at a fair in Ireland, but the doctor made me -believe that the wound was much worse than I thought it was at first. - -There were many men in hospital with diarrhÅ“a, dysentery, and a few with -scurvy; sick and wounded men kept coming in from the camp and trenches, -day and night; the worst cases are to be sent down to Balaklava. I am -glad not to be one of them, I do not want to go far from my dear old -regiment. At the end of three weeks, I was returned fit for duty once -more, thanks be to God, and recommended for light duty for a few days. - -May 2nd. I was discharged from hospital this morning; the day was warm -and beautiful, and a gentle breeze fanned the canvas of the wide spread -streets of tents, for we have only two wooden huts up for the 17th -Regiment as yet. I was anxious to have a look at old Sebastopol once -more, and see how it looked after the storm of shot and shell which I -have heard roaring and bursting for the last three weeks that I have -been in hospital; so I went up to Cathcart's Hill, just at the left of -our camp ground. As the day was clear and fine, the reports of the guns -and rifles became more distinct, the white buildings, domes, and cupolas -of Sebastopol stood out with menacing distinctness against the sky, and -the ruined suburbs and massive batteries seemed just the same and looked -as strong as when I saw them three weeks ago. - -May 16. The Sardinians are massing on the hills all round Karanyi daily. -Three steamers have arrived yesterday laden with these troops. They have -landed all ready for the field, with their transport horses, carts, -mules, and vehicles; they looked gay, and every one admired the air and -carriage of those troops. Our eye was much struck by the large, gay -plume of green feathers on the top of their dandy shako. The officers -wear a plume of green ostrich feathers. They carry very small square -tents which are upheld by their lances stuck in the ground, one at each -end of the tent, and their encampment, with its flags all round it, has -a very pretty effect. We are all very sorry to hear that Miss -Nightingale has been ill with fever in Balaklava. - -June 3rd. For the last two weeks firing has been very slack, and trench -duty has gone on quietly with two and three nights off at a time. The -Russians throw an odd shell into our trench, to remind us that they are -on the alert; we can see the shell black in the shining sun, as it -describes its circle high in the air, and at night they are more plainly -seen—with a tail like a comet, they are heard whistling, coming through -the air, apparently up among the stars. - -There has been an unusual languor on the side of the Russians. Some say -it is due to sickness raging in Sebastopol, others say it is due to the -desire of economizing ammunition, but most of us think that it is the -warmth of the weather that has dulled their energies. But there is one -thing that we do know, for we can see it, that they are working away to -strengthen and provision the fortress on the north side. - -June 6th. At three p.m., the whole of the batteries encircling -Sebastopol have once more, for the third time, opened a most terrible -fire on its batteries. The English and French are now in strength and -power equal to any achievement, and in the best of spirits, and are -anxious to get a good charge at the Russians with the bayonet. Every one -feels that the intention of going beyond a vain bombardment is tolerably -plain, and we think with some strong defiance of the risk. This -afternoon Lord Raglan and General Pellisier, with their staff, rode -through the camp, amidst the cheers and acclamations of both their -armies. There cannot be any doubt as to the zeal of those whom they -command. - -Our fire was kept up for the first four hours with the greatest -rapidity. The superiority of our fire over the enemy became apparent at -various points before nightfall, especially on the Redan, which was -under the special attention of the sailors' batteries. After dark the -fire slackened somewhat on both sides, but the same relative advantage -was maintained by our artillery. - -June 7th, at 11 a.m., a shell from the enemy exploded a magazine in our -eight gun battery, and a yell of applause by the Russians followed the -report. Happily the explosion caused very slight harm; one man killed -and one wounded. As the day wore on, it leaked out that something of -import was undoubtedly to take place before its close, and that the -double attack would probably commence at five or six p.m. The fire on -our side which had continued until daybreak steadily assumed a sudden -fury at three o'clock, and was kept up from that hour to the critical -moment with great activity. The affair itself came off but little after -the anticipated time. It was about 7 o'clock p.m., when the head of the -French attacking column climbed its arduous road to the Mamelon. A -rocket was thrown up as a signal to our division, and instantly the -small force of our men made a rush at the Quarries. After a hard hand to -hand fight we drove out the Russians, and turned round the gabions and -commenced to fortify ourselves in our newly acquired position. At the -same time the French went up the side of the Mamelon in most beautiful -style, like a pack of hounds trying to rout a fox from his old cover; -the Zouaves were upon the parapet firing down upon the Russians; the -next moment a flag was up as a rallying point, and was seen to sway to -and fro, now up, now down, as the tide of battle raged round it; and now -like a swarm they were into the Mamelon, and a fierce hand to hand -encounter with the bayonet and musket ensued; and after a very hard -contested battle, the French succeeded in driving the enemy from the -Mamelon. - -In the meantime our men fought at the Quarries, and repelled six -successive attacks of the Russians, who displayed the most singular -daring, bravery, and recklessness of life to obtain possession of the -Quarries. - -June 8th. Repeated attacks were made on our men in the Quarries during -the night, who defended their new acquisition with the utmost courage, -and at great sacrifice of life, against superior numbers, continually -replenished. More than once there was a fierce hand to hand fight in the -position itself. - -The most murderous sortie of the enemy took place about 3 o'clock in the -morning; then the whole batteries were lighted up with a blaze of fire, -and storms of shot were thrown in from the Redan and other batteries -within range. When morning dawned the position held by both French and -English was of the greatest importance. The morning brought out on every -side, along with the perception of advantage gained, and a prey lying at -our feet, all the haste and circumstances of the scene, with its painful -consequence of death and suffering. On our side about 400 rank and file -and 40 officers were killed and wounded. The French had 1,200 killed and -wounded. Next day flags of truce were hoisted from the Malakoff and -Redan and Flagstaff batteries, which announced that the Russians -requested an armistice to bury their dead; it was a grave request to -make in the midst of a fierce bombardment, evidently a ruse to gain -time, events hanging in the balance, success, perhaps, depending upon -the passing moment; but it was granted by Lord Raglan,—I dare not -criticise his lordship,—from one o'clock until six in the evening, -during which time no shot was fired on either side, while the dead -bodies which strewed the hill in front of the Quarries were removed from -the field of slaughter. The corpses which encumbered the earth, and were -in process of removal, gave out faint tokens of coming putrefaction; -fragments of bodies and marks of carnage were interspersed with, as -usual, gabions and broken firelocks. - -During the five hours' armistice the enemy, with their wonted -perseverance, had been making good use of their time, which we knew they -would; and when the firing commenced, which it did instantly the flags -were lowered, a few minutes before 6 o'clock, it was plain that the -Malakoff and Redan had both received a reinforcement of guns; so much -for politeness,—for the Russians were most artful in hiding their -working parties during the armistice. - -June 11th. We had many men killed and wounded during the night in our -new positions, into which the Russians kept firing grape and canister -from the batteries which flank the rear of the Redan. - -News had reached the camp that Miss Nightingale has quite recovered from -her serious illness, and that she has embarked on board Lord Ward's -steam yacht for Scutari. We all pray and trust that she may so improve -in health and strength as to enable her to come amongst our wounded men -once more at Balaklava hospital; for her presence there is worth all the -doctors' medicine. God bless her, prays an honest Roman Catholic. This -morning I received, from my wife in England, a letter which conveyed to -me the sad intelligence that my youngest child, Elizabeth, had died on -the 30th of last April. - - -[Illustration] - - - - -[Illustration] - -CHAPTER XX. - - BOMBARDMENT—THE ASSAULT—GREAT REDAN—THE BATTLE—BALAKLAVA— - HOSPITAL—MISS NIGHTINGALE—NURSES—PROMOTED—DISCHARGED FROM - HOSPITAL—DEATH OF LORD RAGLAN. - - -After the contest for the rifle pits and Mamelon, on the 8th and 9th, a -temporary lull took place in the siege operations, which was necessary, -in order to make preparations for a yet more formidable assault on the -Malakoff and Redan, of which the Mamelon and Quarries were mere advanced -works. Therefore, on the morning of the 17th of June, 1855, the -batteries of the allied armies before Sebastopol opened fire from the -whole line of trenches, from left to right. The tremendous roar of big -guns and mortars was terrible. What a pity that this bombardment had not -been kept up until the general assault took place next morning, which -Lord Raglan had intended; but in order to suit the wishes of General -Pellisier, it was most unfortunate that his Lordship was induced to -abandon his intention, instead of which the Russians were allowed to -strengthen their batteries and reinforce them with troops owing to the -lull in the firing. By the time the assault was made, they were well -prepared to meet us. - -June 18th. At 2 o'clock in the morning, the 4th division, under General -Wyndham and Sir John Campbell, consisting of the 17th, 20th, 21st, 57th -and 63rd Regiments, were marched down to the twenty-one gun battery; -thence by files through zigzags to the Quarries, under a galling fire of -shot and shell from the Redan, the 17th Regiment leading. As we reached -the Quarries, the men got packed closely together in such a small space; -and the Russians, having the exact range threw the shell right amongst -our men, tearing them to pieces, throwing their legs and arms high in -the air, as we stood there a target for the Russians waiting for the two -rockets which was the signal from the French, when they got into the -Malakoff. A shell struck Sergeant Connell of the Grenadier Company, -tearing him to shreds, and throwing one of his legs fifty yards off, -which was found afterwards and known by the regimental number on the -sock. That leg was all of him that could ever be seen afterwards. Paddy -Belton, the third man from me, got struck with a shell and torn to -pieces, and several others. We had much better have tried to get into -the Redan, than to stand there in suspense, a target for shell and shot. -The sailors and 20th Regiment were told off to carry scaling ladders and -wool packs; the latter were placed on the field, as cover for the -riflemen, who were told off to cover the advance of the storming party, -firing at the Russian gunners, through the embrasures. As the ladder -party advanced toward the ditch of the Redan, a storm of grape, -canister, rifle bullets and pieces of old nails and iron, was discharged -from the big guns of the Redan, besides a cross fire from the curtains -of the little Redan and Malakoff, causing great slaughter to the small -party of sailors and 20th Regiment. I saw one of the ladder carriers -knocked down from one end with a shot, when the weight of the ladder -devolved on the other man who dragged it along the best way he could, -till he was also knocked over. After hard tugging several had got as far -as the abatis, where they had another delay; for during the night the -Russians had repaired and strengthened it. This obstructed the advance -of the ladder party, who used the greatest exertions to remove that -barrier; all who were not shot worked through and deposited their -ladders in the ditch of the Redan. Of those who fell, their ladders lay -on the ground between the Quarries and Redan. The ladders were barely -deposited in the ditch, when Lord Raglan gave the order for the advance -of the storming parties, which consisted of the 17th, 21st, 57th and -63rd Regiments. This small party, led by Sir John Campbell, were to -attack the left side of that immense and formidable stronghold, the -great Redan. - -The light division, led by the gallant Colonel Yea, consisted of the -7th, 23rd, 33rd, 34th, 77th and 88th Regiments, the right side, and the -2nd division the centre or apex. On the signal being given, Captain John -Croker sang out at the top of his voice, "Grenadiers of the 17th, -advance," when the company bounded over the parapet, like one man, led -by their captain, followed by the other companies. When the Russians saw -us advancing, they opened such a terrific fire of grape, canister and -musketry, that it was almost impossible for any man to escape being hit. -As we advanced up to the abatis, Sir John Campbell was shot, also my -noble captain, John Croker, who was struck with a grape shot in the -head, and fell. - - -LINES ON THE DEATH OF SIR JOHN CAMPBELL AND CAPTAIN JOHN CROKER. - -_Who fell leading the assault on the Great Redan, June 18th, 1855._ - - Ye Grenadiers! who fear no foe and scoff at death, - Full well I know that, to your dying breath, - You'll fight like warriors, or like heroes fall, - So now obey your Queen and country's call. - - To crush those Russians with relentless hand, - And scale their ramparts like a gallant band, - Let John Campbell's orders be our guide, - We'll fight and conquer by that hero's side. - - Nor will we humble at the Russian bear; - While God is with us we need never fear; - Grasp tight your swords for victory's glorious crown, - And share with none those deeds of high renown. - - The warriors brave around John Croker stood, - Within the Quarries ready for to shed their blood, - While Captain Croker on the signal given, - Cries, "Grenadiers, advance! and trust your fate to heaven." - - Stung with desire, they raised the battle-cry, - And rushed well forward to win the fight, or die; - Our captain waved high his sword, and then - Onward he dashed, followed by all his gallant men. - - Who with one loud hurrah, the silence broke, - And charged like Britons through the fire and smoke; - A moment more and then the bloody struggle came, - With roar of cannon and with flash and flame. - - While piled in ghastly heaps the brave soldiers lay, - Filling the trenches with their dead that day, - John Croker's voice was heard above the battle din, - Leading his company through death and slaughter then. - - Until at last the fatal bullet riven, - Laid our hero low and sent his soul to heaven; - Deep was the grief and sorrow at his loss we bore, - As that noble chieftain lay weltering in his gore. - - While round his ghastly corpse we bravely tried - To quell the sweeping torrent of the rushing tide - That rushed upon us with such resistless fire, - And levelled our heroes in heaps, there to expire. - - But few escaped of the forlorn band, - Of that chivalric company Croker did command; - But those who did, stuck by their leader still, - And laid his corpse to rest on Cathcart's Hill. - - T. FAUGHNAN. - - -At this time, if the commander had supported us, we would have taken the -Redan; but the few men who were sent out were shot down. Scarcely a man -advanced as far as the Redan but got either killed or wounded. I got -shot through the right arm, fracturing the bone. As I was coming back, -covered with blood, for the wound was severe, I saw a man named John -Dwyer, who got struck with a grape shot in the thigh. He said to me, -"Oh, Faughnan, I am kilt entirely." He had scarcely spoken, when a round -shot struck him again and put an end to his sufferings. I was conducted -to the ravine, at the Woronzoff road, by a drummer, where the doctors -and hospital orderlies were in their shirt-sleeves, hard at work, -amputating legs and arms, and binding up wounds; it was fearful to see -all the legs and arms lying around. After the doctor stopped the blood -with a patent bandage, he dressed my wound, and sent me to hospital on -an ambulance waggon with twelve other wounded men. During the assault on -the Redan and Malakoff, the third division, under General Eyre, -consisting of the 9th, 18th, 28th, 38th, and 44th Regiments, with a -company of picked marksmen, under Major Felden, of the 44th Regiment, -were pushed forward to feel the way, and cover the advance. At the -signal for the general assault, the 18th Royal Irish, being the storming -party, rushed at the cemetery, and got possession, dislodging the -Russians with a small loss; but the moment the Russians retired, the -batteries opened a heavy fire on them, from the Barrack and Garden -batteries. - -The 18th at once rushed out of the cemetery towards the town, and -succeeded in getting into some houses; Captain Hayman was gallantly -leading his company when he was shot. Once in the houses, they prepared -to defend themselves. Meantime the enemy did their utmost to blow down -the houses with shot, shell, grape and canister, but the men kept close, -though they lost many men. They entered these houses about six o'clock -in the morning, and could not leave them until eight o'clock in the -evening. The enemy at last blew up many of the houses, and set fire to -others. When our men rushed out of them the fire was now spreading all -over. The 9th also effected a lodgment in some houses, and held their -possession as well as the 18th. Why were these men not supported by -large bodies of troops, so as to take the enemy on the flank, and round -behind the Redan? Whose fault was it? Not the men's! Whose fault was it -that the Redan was not breeched by round shot, and the abatis swept away -before the assault was made? Not the men's. Whose fault was it that -large supports were not pushed forward to the Redan, on the assault -being made? Not the men's. Nothing can be compared to the bravery, -daring and courage of the officers and soldiers of the British army, -when they are brought properly into action; but when a handful of men -are sent to take a stronghold like the Redan, armed as it was with all -sorts of destructive missiles, and manned by an immense force, it could -not be expected that men could do impossibilities. An armistice to bury -the dead was granted by the Russians, and at 4 o'clock in the afternoon -of the 19th, white flags were hoisted on the Redan and Malakoff, and in -an instant afterwards burying parties of the French and English emerged -from the trenches and commenced to carry off their dead and bury them in -rear of the trenches, all in one grave, and in their clothes as they -lay, except the officers who were taken to camp, and buried at -Cathcart's Hill. Many wounded men were found close to the abatis, who -were lying there thirty-six hours in their blood-stained clothes, in the -scorching sun, without a drop of water to quench their thirst. Several -had crawled away during the night, and hundreds had died of their wounds -as they lay. After the burial was over, the white flags were lowered and -firing commenced again once more. As the ambulance waggons moved along -the Woronzoff road towards the hospitals, I could not help regretting -our loss in officers and men, more especially Captain John Croker. He -was a very strict officer, but a very kind gentleman; that is, he -expected every man to do his duty faithfully and zealously, and beyond -that, he was indulgent, generous, and always anxious for the comfort, -happiness, and amusement of his company. A better, braver, or more -dignified and gentlemanly officer, a kinder friend than Captain John -Croker was not in the service, nor one more precise, more exacting, more -awake to the slightest professional neglect of duty and his loss to the -grenadier company, I am sure, will be deeply and sorely felt; he was a -native of the County Limerick. On arrival at the hospital the doctor -examined my wound, and found that the bone was fractured. He then set -it, after taking out three splinters, dressed it, put it in a splint, -gave me a glass of brandy, and put me to bed. The hospital was getting -so crowded I was one of a party of wounded men who were sent down to -Balaklava hospital on mules, next day at ten o'clock. The number sent -down from the division was two hundred; each mule carried two patients; -we sat back to back. On arrival at Balaklava hospital, we were told off -to comfortable huts, each containing beds or cots. The wounded men were -separate from the others; those very severely wounded were put to bed, -and at dinner time one of Miss Nightingale's ladies came round, and -spoke kindly to us, and examined our wounds, which we appreciated very -much; and at tea time the same lady brought us arrowroot and port wine. -Next morning the doctor dressed our wounds, and the lady brought us all -sorts of delicacies. How different to the camp rations of salt junk and -hard tack; and now we had a real lady to nurse us and attend to our -wants. I thought that it was worth getting wounded to have such -attendance. Nothing could surpass the kindness and attention which these -ladies showed the wounded men; each of them has a certain number of -patients under her care; and truly their kindness and unremitting -exertions did more good to alleviate the pain and suffering of the -wounded men than all the doctor's medicine. The weather was so very hot -that my arm began to swell, so that the doctor got alarmed and consulted -another doctor, when they decided to amputate my arm. I did not like the -idea of losing my arm, but the doctors thought the swelling would get -into my body; so when the nurse came round with the arrowroot in the -evening, after she had washed and dressed my wound, she advised me not -to have my arm taken off, but go down to a spring that gushed from a -rock at the foot of the hill and there hold the wound under the stream -as long as I could bear it, every day. I did as she told me. I then told -the doctor that I would not have my arm taken off. I sat at the spring -all day, except at meal times, and held my arm under the cold water that -rushed out of the rock, and at the end of a week the swelling reduced. -From that time it began to get better; I was in good health and was -allowed to walk round the hills during the day. The head surgeon, Dr. -Jephson, allowed us every privilege, and our nurse brought us note -paper, envelopes and postage stamps, so that we could write home to our -friends. The invalids were allowed to roam round the rocks all day -between meal times. The hospital, which has been recently established, -affords great comfort to our sick and wounded men, who will be saved the -evils of a sea voyage to Scutari. It already presents the appearance of -a little village with small patches of gardens in front of the huts; and -its position on those heights, among the rocks, overhanging the sea and -steep crags, which wind up past the old Genoese tower that stands at the -entrance of Balaklava harbour, to the height of our camp over the sea, -is strikingly picturesque. The judicious surgical treatment of my arm, -and the careful manner in which the doctor's directions were carried out -by our nurse, together with holding it under the stream of cold spring -water, soon restored it to use again; several other men whose wounds -were very severe were fast improving under this lady's care. Her -assiduity and skill as a nurse, as well as the gentle kindness of her -manner, fully warranted the greatest respect from her patients, who -almost idolized her, whose presence in the hut stilled the pain of the -wounded men. We often wondered whether she ever slept, as she seemed to -be always attending one or another of her charge. Miss Nightingale had -left Balaklava for Scutari a few days ago, so I had not the -gratification of seeing that heroic lady, whose honoured name is often -mentioned among the soldiers of the British Army with the most profound -respect—that high born lady Florence Nightingale, the sick and wounded -soldier's friend, whose name will be handed down to future generations, -as the greatest heroine of her sex, who left her happy home with all the -genial associations, comforts and social attractions which her birth, -education and accomplishments so well enable her to appreciate; going -out to a country wherein every turn spoke of war and slaughter; taking -up her abode in an hospital containing none of her own sex save those -noble ladies who accompanied her as nurses; watching and tending the -sick from morning till night, among hundreds of wounded, sick, emaciated -and hungry soldiers. All these things considered, there has indeed -rarely, if ever, been such an example of heroic daring combined with -feminine gentleness. Although there is a heroism in charging the enemy -on the heights of Inkerman, in defiance of death and all mortal -opposition, worthy of all praise and honour, yet the quiet sympathy, the -largeness of her religious heart, and her wondrous powers of -consolation, will ever be remembered with the love, thankfulness and -affection of the soldiers of the British Army, and by no one more than -T. Faughnan. - - -LINES TO MISS FLORENCE NIGHTINGALE. - - At the Crimean war thy life was new; - You left your home, and country too, - To tend the wounded with hand so fair, - To Balaklava hospital you did repair. - - Miss Florence Nightingale, for you is given - The soldier's prayer to God in Heaven, - That you may soar to Him above, - For your right noble valour and Christian love. - - If Angels are here on earth below, - You must be one of them we know; - For flesh and blood can not compare, - Such genuine valour and angelic care. - - As you displayed, without one thought - Of the sleepless nights on you it brought; - May God His blessings on you descend, - Is a soldier's prayer whom you did befriend. - - When you this earthly race have run, - May Angels lead you to the Son, - There to sing with Christ for evermore, - Whom here, on earth, you ever did adore. - - T. FAUGHNAN. - - -After it was ascertained at the regiment that I was not killed, as was -reported, but only wounded, and in hospital at Balaklava, the commanding -officer had me promoted to full corporal, and my promotion dated back -from the first of April previous, which left me three months' back pay -to draw. This news reached me a few days before I was discharged from -hospital. On the 20th of August, I was discharged from hospital, and -once more proceeded to join my regiment in camp. After thanking the -Sisters for all their kindness and attention to me while under their -charge, I bid them all good-bye, and started for the front with six -others. - -On arrival at camp, the first I met was Major Gordon, who was very glad -to see me. He said to me, "Faughnan, we all thought you were killed that -morning. I am sorry I did not know that you were only wounded before I -sent off the returns; I would have recommended you for the Victoria -Cross—but it cannot be helped now, as I have recommended Corporal John -Smith for it." I thanked him very kindly, and joined my company, who -were all well pleased to see me. - -There is a sad feeling among the officers and soldiers in camp, and deep -regret evinced, at the loss of Lord Raglan, who departed this life at -nine o'clock, p.m., the 28th June, 1855. His death appears to have at -once stilled every feeling but that of respect for his memory; and the -remembrance of the many long years he faithfully and untiringly served -his country; and his frequent cheering visits among the men in camp, had -endeared him to the army now before Sebastopol. A military procession -was formed at four o'clock in the afternoon of the 3rd of July to escort -the body to Kazatch Bay. As many as could be spared from duty in the -trenches and, with safety to the camp, from every infantry regiment, -formed an avenue from the British to the French headquarters, and from -thence to Kazatch Bay, where the "Caradoc" was ready to receive her -melancholy freight. The French troops formed a similar avenue. The -cavalry and batteries of artillery were formed up behind the lines of -infantry, and bands were stationed at intervals, and played the Dead -March as the procession moved slowly along the route marked out by the -lines of infantry. The coffin was carried on a gun carriage—the -soldier's hearse. At each side rode the four commanders of the allied -armies; then followed all the generals and officers who could be spared -from trench duty. As the solemn procession moved along, minute guns were -fired by the field artillery of the French. At Kazatch Bay, marines and -sailors were formed up on the wharf; the naval officers were in -attendance; and the body of Lord Raglan was placed on board of Her -Majesty's Ship "Caradoc," and removed from that battle-field where both -his body and mind had suffered for the last nine months, and where many -hundreds of gallant officers lie, in their gore and glory, waiting for -the sound of the last trumpet. - - -[Illustration] - - - - -[Illustration] - -CHAPTER XXI. - - CAPTAIN COLTHURST—SIEGE—BOMBARDMENT—ASSAULT—REDAN—THE BATTLE— - 8TH SEPTEMBER—THE EVACUATION—RUSSIANS—BRITISH IN SEBASTOPOL. - - -August 25th. Captain Colthurst arrived at camp with a draft of three -hundred men, who were posted to the different companies, to fill up the -vacancies left by those who fell in battle, or died in hospital, or -camp, during the winter. During the month of July and August our loss in -the trenches was very heavy, although the achievements were not such as -brought great fame and honour to the hard-working army. The outworks had -approached so near the Russian batteries that our trenches afforded very -insufficient shelter from shot, shell, and rifle-bullets which killed -and wounded so many of our working parties, swelling the list of dead -and wounded very much every twenty four hours. Every thing was now -reported ready by the engineers and artillery officers for one last and -desperate assault on the fortifications. - -The labour bestowed by the Russians to strengthen the Redan and Malakoff -was almost inconceivable—a formidable abatis of sharpened stakes in -front, a parapet thirty feet high, ditch twenty feet deep by twenty-four -feet wide, with three tiers of heavy guns and mortars rising one above -another. Such was the Malakoff and Redan. The plan of assault was, a -vigorous fire to open on the enemy's batteries, by the Allies, on the -5th, 6th and 7th; followed on the 8th of September, 1855, by a storming -of the Malakoff by the French, and of the Redan by the British. Generals -Pellisier and Simpson arranged that at dawn, on the 8th, the French -storming columns were to leave the trenches, the British to storm the -Redan; the tricolour flag planted on the Malakoff was to be the signal -that the French had triumphed, and the British were then to storm the -Redan, for unless the Malakoff was captured first, the Redan could not -be held, as the former was the key of the position, therefore the -Malakoff should be attacked first, and with a very strong force. - -Appalling in its severity was the final bombardment of Sebastopol. It -began at day-break, as previously arranged by the commanders, the shot -and shell shaking the very ground with the tremendous reverberation, -raising clouds of earth and overturning batteries along the Russian -lines, filling the air with vivid gleams and sparks and trains of fire, -burying the horizon in dense clouds of smoke and vapour, and carrying -death and destruction into the heart of, and all over the city. After -three hours of this tremendous fire, the gunners ceased for a while to -cool their guns and rest themselves; then resumed with such effect that -the Russian earth-works became awfully cut up, without, however, -exhibiting any actual gaps or breaches, which would have befallen stone -batteries, under such a storm of shot and shell; proving the defensive -power of earth-works. Darkness did not stay this devastation; shell and -shot continued to whistle through the air, marking out a line of light -to show their flight, and crashing and bursting against the defences and -buildings. The Malakoff and Redan, when no longer visible in daylight, -were brought out into vivid relief by the bursting of shells and the -flashes of guns. One of the ships in the harbour caught fire from a -shell, and was burnt to the water's edge. All through the night the fire -continued, which prevented the Russians from repairing their parapets -and embrasures, and with dawn on the 6th, the roar of cannon was only -interrupted by a few intervals to cool the guns. The enemy, seeing that -the hour of peril had arrived, used almost superhuman exertions to work -their batteries; increased agitation was visible among them, and several -movements seemed to indicate the removal from the south to the north -side of the harbour of all such persons and valuables as would not be -required to render assistance in the defence. Again did a night of -intermittent fire ensue. On the 7th, another ship was burnt in the -harbour by our shells; flames broke out in the town, and a loud -explosion like that of a magazine took place in the evening. - - -THE NIGHT BEFORE THE BATTLE, 8TH SEPT., 1855. - - To-morrow, comrade, we - At the Great Redan must be, - There to conquer, or both lie low - The morning star is up, - But there's wine still in the cup, - And we'll take another tot, ere we go, boys, go, - And we'll take another tot, ere we go. - - 'Tis true, in warriors' eyes - Sometimes a tear will rise, - When we think of our friends left at home; - But what can wailing do, - Sure our goblet's weeping too! - With its tears we'll chase away our own, boys, our own, - With its tears we'll chase away our own. - - The morning may be bright; - But this may be the last night - That we shall ever pass together; - The next night where shall we - And our gallant comrades be? - But—no matter—grasp thy sword and away, boy, away, - No matter—grasp thy sword, and away! - - Let those who brook the lot - Of the Russian great despot, - Like cowards at home they may stay; - Cheers for our Queen be given, - While our souls we trust to heaven, - Then for Britain and our Queen, boys, hurra! hurra! hurra! - Then, for Britain and our Queen, boys, hurra! - - THOS. FAUGHNAN. - - -On the morning of the 8th, a destructive and pitiless storm of shot and -shell continued until noon, when the fire of our batteries ceased, and -the storming columns of the French issued forth, preceded by riflemen -and sappers and miners. The French had bridges as substitutes for -ladders; the ditch was crossed by the bridges, and the parapet scaled -with surprising celerity. Then commenced the struggle, with guns, -rifles, pistols, swords, bayonets, and gun-rammers; but in a quarter of -an hour the tricolour flag floated on the Malakoff, announcing that the -formidable position was taken. - -Although the French had captured it, the Russians so well knew its -value, it being the key to the whole position, that they made furious -attempts at re-capture. But the French General judiciously sent powerful -reserves to the support of McMahon, and these reserves maintained a -series of desperate battles against the Russians within the Malakoff, -bayonet against bayonet, musket against musket, man against man. The -contest continued for several hours; but the French triumphed, and drove -the Russians from their stronghold. - -Anything more wildly disorderly than the interior of the Malakoff can -hardly be imagined. The earth had been torn up by the explosion of -shells, and every foot of the ground became a frightful scene of bloody -struggles; thousands of dead and wounded men being heaped up within this -one fort alone. As soon as the tricolour was seen floating on the -Malakoff, two rockets gave the signal for the British columns to storm -the Redan. Out rushed the storming party, preceded by the ladder and -covering party, a mere handful altogether; indeed it appears astonishing -that so few should have been told off for so great a work; every soldier -had a perilous duty assigned him. The riflemen were to cover the advance -of the ladder party, by shooting down the gunners at the embrasures of -the Redan; the ladder party to place the ladders in the ditch. As soon -as the storming party rushed from the Quarries, the guns of the Redan -opened a fierce fire on them, sweeping them down as they advanced. Col. -Unett, of the 19th Regiment, was one of the first officers that fell, -and Brigadiers Von Straubenzie and Shirley were both wounded, and -scarcely an officer who advanced with the storming party but got either -killed or wounded. The distance from the Redan to the Quarries was too -great, being over two hundred yards, which gave the enemy a good -opportunity to mow the storming party down with a tremendous fire of -grape, canister and musketry. The survivors advanced and reached the -abatis, the pointed stakes of which, standing outward presented a -formidable obstacle to further progress; however the men made gaps -through which they crawled. Then came another rush to the ditch, when -the ladders were found to be too short. However, our men scrambled down, -and climbed up, many falling all the time under the shot of the enemy. -Officers and men were emulous for the honour of being among the first to -enter this formidable battery; but alas too weak, in the numbers -necessary for such an enterprise. Mounting to the parapet, the beseigers -saw the interior of the Redan before them filled with masses of soldiers -and powerful ranges of guns and mortars; wild and bloody was the scene -within the assailed fort. Colonel Wyndham (afterwards Sir Charles) was -the first officer to enter; and when fairly within the parapet, he and -the other officers and men did all they could to dislodge the Russians -from behind the traverse and breast works; but the Russians overpowered -our handful of men that were sent to take this stronghold, for we had no -support to back up those that got a footing in the Redan. The Russians -continued bringing up reinforcements and soon overpowered the few -British, who saw they must either retire or remain to be shot down. New -supporting parties kept arriving in such driblets and in such confusion -as to render impossible any well directed charge against the place. If, -for a time a few men were collected in a body, volleys of musketry, -grape, canister, and old pieces of iron of every description, fired from -their big guns, levelled our men to the dust. The officers and men at -last seeing no supports coming to their aid, lost heart and retreated to -their trenches. - -The embrasures of the parapets, the ditch, and all round the abatis -became a harrowing scene of death and wounds; heaps of dead and wounded -lay all round the Redan, and piles of them lay at the bottom of the -ditch, where they fell by the Russian shot, as they climbed up the -scaling ladders. At two o'clock the attack was over, and in these two -hours the British loss was very severe. No other day throughout the war -recorded so many killed and wounded which amounted to the large number -of 2450 in all. The French loss was three times more severe it comprised -no less than 7550 killed and wounded. - -Next day another attack was to be made on the Redan. Sir Colin Campbell -sent down a party cautiously in the night to see how the Redan was -occupied; it was found to be vacated, telling plainly of the -abandonment, by the Russians, of the south side of the town. It appears -that Gortchakoff, when the impossibility of maintaining his position -became evident, commenced blowing up the public buildings of the town; -the gunners, during the early hours of the night, kept up a sufficient -fire to mask their proceedings in the stillness of the night when the -allied camps were filled with men, either sleeping or thinking anxiously -of the scenes which day-light might bring forth. Lurid flames began to -rise in Sebastopol; explosions of great violence shook the earth, and -intense commotion was visible to the men in the trenches. The fires -began in various parts of the town, and tremendous explosions behind the -Redan tore up the ground for a great distance; and other explosions -succeeded so rapidly that a thick, murky mass of smoke and flames from -burning buildings, imparted an awful grandeur to the scene. Now came a -resistless outburst which blew up the Flagstaff battery; then another -blew up the Garden battery. As day-light approached, Fort Paul, Fort -Nicholas Central, and Quarantine Bastion, were seen surrounded by -flames. We could not withhold our admiration of the manner in which -Gortchakoff carried out his desperate plan, the last available means of -saving the rest of the garrison. - -On the morning of the 9th September, when the troops in camp heard the -announcement that the mighty city had fallen, the city which, during -twelve months, had, day by day, been looked at and studied by our -generals and engineers, and in front of which 10,000 of our troops had -been killed or wounded on the preceding day,—with difficulty was the -announcement credited, so accustomed had all been to the dashing of -their hopes, and the non-fulfilment of their predictions. I was one -among many who hastened into the town and was astonished at the enormous -extent of the batteries, and the manner in which our shot and shell had -knocked down and torn up the massive buildings. The French soldiers -rushed into the town, peered about the burning houses, and plundered -them of chairs, tables, looking-glasses, and countless articles, and -carried them up to their camp. The French soldiers always keep a bright -look-out for plunder. I must say that our men did not touch a single -article, that I ever heard of, except one man, who found a lot of money -in a bank. He emptied it into his haversack, and left at once. The bank -clerks in their excitement and hurry must have forgotten to take the -money in their haste to get out of the city. We had a chain of cavalry -all round the town, to keep back stragglers, and stop any person from -taking anything out of the town. Thus ended the wondrous Siege of -Sebastopol. On the 8th of September, when the allied commanders found -that the Russian garrison, together with inhabitants had crossed to the -north side of the harbour it became their duty to ascertain whether any -traps or explosive mines had been laid by the enemy, before our troops -could be allowed to occupy the town, to ward off camp followers, and to -divide the spoils of the garrison between the two invading armies; and -to take measures for the destruction of the forts and docks. - -The appearance of the town, at the time that we entered it, was fearful -indeed. Destructive forces had been raging with a violence never before -equalled in the history of sieges; and the whole internal area was one -vast heap of crumbled earth-work, shattered masonry, shot-pierced -buildings, torn-up streets, scorched timbers, broken guns and muskets, -and shattered vehicles. The buildings were shattered into forms truly -fantastic; some of the lower stories almost shot away and barely able to -support the superstructure; some with enormous gaps in the walls. Proofs -were manifold that the Russians intended to defend the town street by -street, had we forced an entrance for across every street were -constructed barricades defended by field pieces. In some of the best -houses columns were broken by shot, ceilings falling, which these -columns had once supported; elegant furniture crushed beneath broken -cornices, beams, and fragments of broken looking-glasses, mingled with -the dust on the marble floors. The effect of our 13-inch shells had been -extraordinary. These dread missiles, of which so many thousand had been -thrown into the town, weigh 200 pounds each, and falling from a great -height, have the weight of over sixty tons descending deep below the -foundation of the houses, and when they explode, scattering everything -around far and wide. Our army still continued to encamp outside the -town, sending only as many troops as would suffice to guard it, and take -up the principal buildings among the ruins for guard-houses. Now we have -plenty of wood, each company sending a fatigue party daily from the camp -to Sebastopol for it. These parties could be seen by the Russians from -the north side pulling down the houses for the wood, and carrying it to -camp. While doing so the Russians invariably fire upon us, from the -north side of the harbour, where they have thrown up very strong forts, -armed with the heaviest guns. They have placed some of those guns with -the breach sunk into the ground, in order to get elevation, and throw -shot right into our camp amongst our tents, not unfrequently killing and -wounding our men. - -We have now regular guards and sentries all over Sebastopol. After -posting a sentry one day, I happened to go down some steps which led to -the basement of a large building, and there I found to my horror fifteen -dead Russians. My sense of smell first detected them in the dark vault; -they were in the worst state of putrefaction. It was found on removing -them that they had all been wounded, and had crawled in there and died -from their wounds. We buried them where thousands of their comrades were -buried, in rear of the Redan. The army is now quiet—no firing except an -odd shot from the Russians at our fatigue parties in Sebastopol. We have -no trench duty to perform—nothing but the regular camp guards; we have -plenty of fuel and good rations; any amount of canteens on the ground, -so we are making up now in comfort for the hard times we had last -winter. The army was now at a stand-still, having nothing to occupy -their time. - -But the commanders began to look forward to a second wintering in the -Crimea as a probability. Invaluable as the railway had become, it was -inadequate to the conveyance of the immense bulk and weight of supplies -required day by day in the army, and hence it is necessary to do that -which, if done in the early part of last winter, would have saved so -many valuable lives—to construct a new road from Balaklava to the camp. -Therefore the road was laid out and large numbers of our men worked on -it daily; but making roads is only child's play compared with making -trenches under shot, shell, grape and canister. The whole of the -divisions were kept continually at road-making; the road promises to be -a splendid one, and we were all anxious to make it. We had no less than -10,000 men working on this road, between Balaklava and the front. By the -end of October a most excellent road was constructed, including branch -roads to the several divisions. The French at the same time constructed -a road across the valley which connects their camp with the main road to -Kamiesch; and besides they have improved the old Tartar roads. - -Our army suffered much last winter from the want of roads. This -excellent road which the British army has constructed, will ever remain -as a memento of British occupation. During the three weeks of September -which followed the evacuation of the south side of Sebastopol the -Russians were quietly but actively strengthening their fortifications on -the north side, making all the heights bristle with guns, and firing a -shot whenever an opportunity offered to work mischief upon our guards, -sentries, and fatigue-parties in the town. We had planted a few guns in -position so as to bear on the northern heights; but no disposition was -shown to open a regular fire on them, except an odd shot to remind them -that we were ready for them at any time. - -Camp rumours arose concerning some supposed expedition into the interior -of the Crimea, but the securing of the captured city was regarded as the -first duty. - -On the 20th September, 1855, the anniversary of the battle of the Alma, -a distribution of the medals for the Crimea, and clasps for Alma, -Balaklava and Inkerman, took place among the troops; these decorations -were very much appreciated by the officers and men. The day was -commemorated with much festivity and amusement in both camps. - - -[Illustration] - - - - -[Illustration] - -CHAPTER XXII. - - EXPEDITION TO KINBURN—THE VOYAGE—ODESSA—LANDING—CUTTING - TRENCHES—BOMBARDMENT—THE WHITE FLAG—CAPITULATION—THE - PRISONERS—RECONNAISSANCE—THE MARCH—VILLAGE—BIVOUAC—MARCH— - A VILLAGE—PIGS AND GEESE—DEPARTURE—THE FLEET—RETURN— - SIR W. CODRINGTON—RUSSIAN SPY. - - -An expedition to Kinburn having been decided upon by the allies, on the -6th of October a squadron of H. M. fleet were in readiness at Kamiesch -Bay to convey the 17th, 20th, 21st, 57th, and 63rd Regiments, together -with marines, artillery and engineers under the command of General -Spencer. As we marched to Kamiesch Bay the morning was close and sultry. -When we got a third of the way private Hanratty fell out of the ranks -and reported himself sick, when Captain Smith calls out, "Corporal -Faughnan, take Hanratty back to hospital." "Yes, sir," says I, we were -then marching down a very steep hill. I marched back to the hospital, -although I was badly able, for I was bad with dysentery myself at the -time, and for upwards of two weeks previously, and was so weak that I -could scarcely march; but I did not wish to give in and be left behind. -After I gave over the sick man, I saw the regiment a long way off in the -valley. I marched as fast as I was able with a full kit. In the -afternoon rain commenced to drizzle, and the regiment halted to cloak. I -then gained on them and soon overtook them. When we halted at the beach -I could have fallen down from weakness and exhaustion, but I kept up my -pluck and never gave in. The troops were embarked on board the fleet by -small steam-tenders; the 17th Regiment had the honour of being conveyed -to Kinburn by the flag-ship "Royal Albert." - -On the 7th October, the troops having been on board, and everything -ready, we set sail, accompanied by several line-of-battle ships, small -steamers, gun-boats, mortar-vessels, and three French floating -batteries, constituting an armament of great magnitude. The English -squadron comprised six steam line-of-battle ships, seventeen steam -frigates, ten gun-boats, six mortar vessels, three steam tenders and ten -transports. The Russians north of Sebastopol were in wild excitement -when this large squadron appeared; but the ships soon disappeared from -the Crimea. - -The admirals signalled to the several captains to rendezvous off Odessa. -As we got out to sea the band discoursed music while the officers were -at dinner; before dinner they played as usual the "Roast Beef of Old -England," which we had not heard for many months before. - -We had no hammocks, so we were obliged to lie all round the decks in -groups during the night. At eight o'clock next morning we cast anchor -off Odessa, three miles from the town. It was then the turn for the -citizens to be alarmed by this display of force. - -The Russians on the heights, in barrack square and all round the city -became incessantly active in making observations. We could see the old -fashioned telegraph on the towers along the coast working, and clouds of -Cossacks, infantry and artillery, formed up along the cliffs, ready to -defend the place if attacked. All day on the 9th the fleet remained at -anchor, about 80 French and English vessels forming a line six miles in -length, eagerly watched from the cliffs by large masses of troops. The -rocket-boats, gun-boats, mortar-vessels, and floating batteries might -have gone nearer and crumbled the city to ruins; but such was not our -orders, and not a shot was fired, and thus was Odessa spared for the -third time during the war. - -The object of the admirals in making this feint on Odessa, was to draw -the Russian troops away from Kinburn, thereby reducing the number of -troops in that garrison. - -The 10th and 11th we were still at anchor, dense fogs giving the seamen -a foretaste of the dangers of that coast; and as the 12th and 13th were -very stormy, the admirals would not risk leaving until the weather -moderated; thus it happened that the citizens had the threatening fleet -in view for six days. The squadrons weighed anchor on the morning of the -14th, and cast anchor off Kinburn that afternoon; in the evening some of -the French and English gun-boats entered the estuary of the Dneiper, -passing the Fort of Kinburn under a heavy fire from the enemy. - -On the morning of the 15th the troops were landed along the beach out of -range of the fort, by the launches of the ships, each being filled with -soldiers, and made fast to each other by means of the painter. After the -troops were all got into the launches, they formed several long lines of -red coats in little boats—each boat was steered by a naval officer. - -The front boat of the line being made fast to a small steamer, the whole -were then towed in front of the beach where we were to land. As the -steamer ran in towards the shore, she cast off the line of boats, and -while they were under way each let go the painter, and headed towards -the beach running in close on a sandy bottom, when the troops jumped -ashore and deployed from where we landed to the River Dneiper, while the -gun-boats went up the river. By this double manÅ“uvre the Russians were -prevented from receiving reinforcements by sea, while the garrison were -cut off by land. In the evening the mortar vessels began to try their -range on the forts. - -The troops brought no tents, and only three days' rations. After posting -outlying pickets, we were set to work cutting a trench from the sea -where we landed to the river Dneiper, a distance of five miles. While we -were digging the trench during the day, the outlying pickets had a -skirmish with a small force of Cossacks; but the chief labour was the -landing of stores and artillery, tedious and dangerous work over the -rough surf, occasioning the swamping of some of the boats. A camp was -formed, but without tents. At two o'clock in the morning we had the -trench cut and manned ready to receive the Russian reinforcements for -the garrison, which were expected from Odessa, but which did not come. -However, a large force of Cossacks came along at three o'clock in the -morning, when we opened a heavy fire upon them from our new trench, -forcing them to retire quicker than they came, we then kept a good -look-out till morning. Generals Spencer and Bazaine made a cavalry -_reconnaissance_ at day-break, when the Cossacks retired altogether. - -About four companies of the French and English marksmen were placed -under cover at a distance of four hundred yards in rear of the fort, and -kept up a fusilade on the Russian gunners; while at the same time the -artillery opened a strong fire on the fort; at nine o'clock the ships -opened fire on the garrison. - -The "Royal Albert," "Algiers," "Agamemnon," and "Princess Royal," and -four ships of the line, approached abreast of the principal fort; the -"Tribune" and "Sphinx" attacked the earth-work battery. The "Hannibal," -"Dauntless," and "Terrible," took position opposite the battery near the -end of the fort, while the smaller vessels directed their attack on the -east and centre of the fort. Thus the Russians, from the shape and -position of the fort, were attacked on all sides at once. Each ship -poured its broadside upon the port and the strand batteries as it -passed, and received the enemy's fire in return. From nine o'clock until -noon these powerful vessels maintained their terrible fire against the -forts, crashing the parapets and disabling the guns, while the mortar -vessels set fire to the buildings within the fort. The "Arrow" and -"Lynx," with others, were exposed to much danger. Having taken up a -position close to the batteries to discharge their shell upon the fort, -they received in return an iron torrent which tried the resolution of -the crew. - -At twelve o'clock the Russians hoisted a white flag, when an English and -a French officer met the Governor at the entrance of the fort, when he -tendered his surrender in military form by giving up his sword, but not -without bitter tears and a passionate exclamation expressive of wounded -national and professional honour. The officers bore the scene with -dignity, but with deep mortification, and many of them were on the verge -of mutiny against the Governor, so strong did they resist any proposals -of surrender. The garrison laid down their arms, and were marched -outside the town and placed close to our camp, with a chain of sentries -and the French around them. The number of prisoners taken was 1,500, -besides 500 killed and wounded; several of our doctors were sent to -attend their wounded in the fort. - -The prisoners were divided, the English half were taken on board the -"Vulcan," while the other half were taken on board the French ships. The -prisoners having been sent off to Constantinople, the captors proceeded -to garrison Kinburn, repairing and increasing the defences, clearing -away the ruins, repairing the walls and embrasures, replacing the -damaged cannon by large ship guns, deepening the ditch, reforming the -palisades, strengthening the parapets, restoring the casemates, -completing efficient barracks and magazines, in the interior of the -fort, and depositing a large amount of military stores of all kinds. - -When the small garrison, the other side of the estuary, opposite -Kinburn, Aczakoff, found that their guns could effect little against the -invaders, and that Kinburn was forced to yield, they blew up the St. -Nicholas battery, on the morning of the 18th, and retired a few hours -afterwards. On the 20th Generals Spencer and Bazaine set out on a -_reconnaissance_ with several regiments of both forces, about five -thousand strong. After marching on a sandy plain, like a desert, ten -miles, we halted close to a village, piled arms, and were allowed to go -foraging into the village, which we found deserted by the inhabitants; -but they left abundance of pigs, geese, fowls and provisions, bread -baking in the ovens, pails of milk and several other most useful -articles, besides in the gardens we found abundance of potatoes, -cabbage, tomatoes, pumpkins, and almost all sorts of vegetables. We -divided the town with the French; after tearing down several houses for -fuel and making camp fires, we commenced cooking fowls, turkeys, geese, -potatoes, cabbages and vegetables; while others were off through the -village killing pigs, geese, turkeys, and chickens, others cutting down -branches of trees from a wood hard by, for the purpose of making huts to -protect us for the night, as we had no tents, and covering them with hay -from the hay yards, and shaking plenty of hay inside to lie on; every -mess erected one of these huts. After indulging in the good things, -which I can assure you we enjoyed, we lay down very comfortably for the -night in the hay, and slept most soundly. Next day at two o'clock -General Spencer reviewed the troops under his command, with the French -General and his soldiers looking on. We were to have the pleasure of -another night in this camp. After enjoying boiled fowls, roast turkeys -and plenty of fresh vegetables, we lay down among the hay and slept -well, thanks be to God. Next morning, after breakfast, we marched to -another village named Roosker, ten miles off. We halted outside the -village, and sent in foraging parties from each regiment, dividing the -town with the French and placing line of sentries in the centre. As we -approached the village, the people fled, leaving everything behind, -pigs, geese, ducks, fowls, bread, milk and butter. As we killed the live -stock, we placed them on the commissariat waggons and brought the spoils -back to camp. It was a most amusing scene, the French and English -officers and soldiers shooting geese, ducks and hens, with their -revolvers, and the men chasing the pigs and stabbing them with their -bayonets. A soldier catches a pig by the hind leg, the animal drags him -into the French lines, when a French soldier claims the animal, and a -kind of a good natured quarrel ensues about the ownership of the pig. -The geese rose in flocks, and the officers had the greatest sport -shooting them. These were jolly times. After ransacking the town, we set -fire to it, and marched back to our old bivouac, ten miles distant. - -After arriving at our old camp ground, lo and behold! our huts were all -demolished, and not a thing left on the ground. The Cossacks had been -there during our absence, and burned and destroyed everything. We could -see them away in the distance, about 400 strong, watching our movements; -however, we bivouacked there as best we could that night. As we marched -back, we passed several windmills which we set fire to. Next morning we -marched to Kinburn with the commissariat waggons loaded with pigs, -geese, fowls, turkeys, potatoes, and cabbage, which were served out as -rations in the usual manner. - -On the 28th October, Generals Spencer and Bazaine began their -arrangements for our departure, first shipping all the stores, guns, and -horses, and selecting a sufficient number of troops to garrison and -guard Kinburn during the winter; but to bring away all the other forces. -Sir Edmund Lyons and the French Admiral selected the vessels which were -to be left to protect the place from any Russian attack across the -estuary. On the morning of the 29th, troops embarked on board the fleet -from the wharf at Kinburn. - -The 17th Regiment was conveyed to the Crimea, by the "Terrible." It was -a most imposing spectacle, this magnificent fleet sailing in line with -the two flag ships leading, and signalling their orders to the captains -of the other ships; the line extended over ten miles. What must the -Russians along the coast think of this immense armament? The fleet cast -anchor in Kamiesch Bay, on the 1st November; and the troops disembarked -at once and marched to our old camp on Cathcart's hill. - -This expedition did the troops more good than all the medicine in the -hospital could have done. I was a new man when I got back. If Hanratty -had braved it out as I did, and had come on with the expedition, he -might have been well by this time, instead of which he is yet in -hospital. The change of air and fresh vegetables worked wonders in -restoring and invigorating the men's health. On our return to camp we -found that a quantity of rum which was left behind, with other -regimental stores, in charge of a sergeant and twelve men was all gone; -for which the sergeant was tried and reduced, and the privates were -severely punished. - -During the month of November we had another change in the command of the -army, the appointment of General Sir W. J. Codrington, vice General -Simpson. The appointment of Sir William was very popular with the army, -and brought increased activity among the troops. - -Among other improvements, which were made to meet the wants of the army, -was a large reservoir in the ravine between the 2nd light, and the 4th -divisions, in the construction of which the French took a prominent -part. This reservoir is capable of supplying three divisions of the -British and three of the French with abundance of good spring water -during winter and summer. Everything seems to have been done now to -protect and meet the wants of the army during the coming winter. Almost -every kind of supplies is in abundance, and the army in the best of -health and spirits. - -I was in command of a divisional guard, near Tchernaya valley, when a -Russian spy was given in my charge by a cavalry _reconnaissance_ party. -I immediately posted a sentry to take charge of this prisoner; but he -watched his opportunity and slipped out under the fly of the tent. The -sentry gave the alarm, when I rushed out after him, calling a file of -the guard to follow me. As I gave him chase, I threw off my -accoutrements, in order to give me more freedom; he had then about one -hundred and fifty yards start of me, and was barefooted, whilst I had -heavy boots on; however, I gave him chase. We had run about two miles -when I saw that I was gaining on him, and I kept gaining, little by -little, for about five miles, when I came up behind him. I was then -nearly out of breath; I kept close behind him a good while till I got my -wind, then I threw my foot before him with the Connaught touch, and -pitched him on his face; then I jumped on him and held him, keeping him -down, lest he might overpower me if he got up, as he was a most powerful -man, and the file of the guard had not come up to us yet. While I gave -him an odd kick, he begged for mercy, which I granted, and marched the -Tartar back, meeting the file of the guard as I was returning. If I had -let that spy escape, I would have been tried by a court-martial; but my -Irish experience in running, before I joined the service, stood to me -then; I would have run after him into the Russian camp before I would -have lost him. When I got back to the tent, I tied him to the pole with -a guy rope, at the same time tying his hands behind his back. I was -determined he should not get away again. - -The camp followers and speculators have got so numerous that they have a -large bazaar formed in the rear of the 4th division. Large shops of -almost every description, saloons, billiard tables, restaurants, hotels, -groceries, tobacconists, wholesale and retail liquor stores, and in fact -almost everything that can be got in any town, can be had here for cash. -There is another large bazaar in the French camp. As we assemble in -Smith & Co.'s liquor store of an evening, drinking "Guiness's bottled -stout," smoking our pipe or cigar with the greatest of comfort, we could -but contrast our position with that of this time last year, when the -inclement weather commenced. The want of food, forage, huts, clothing, -fuel, medicine, roads, vehicles and horses, proved its tragic results. -Men lay down in the mire to die of despair, and no commanding officer -could tell how many of his poor soldiers would be available for duty -next day. But now, towards the close of 1855, we have every kind of -supply in abundance, thanks to the people of England! The army is well -fed and well clothed, and we are looking out for some active operations -against the enemy. The Russians continue to fortify the northern heights -without firing a shot, and we occupy the south quietly, without -disturbing them. How long this will last will be seen in the next -chapter. - - - - -[Illustration] - -CHAPTER XXIII. - - ARMISTICE—CESSATION OF HOSTILITIES—EXCHANGE OF COINS—HEIR TO - FRENCH IMPERIAL THRONE—TREATY OF PEACE—INVITATIONS—GRAND REVIEW— - REMOVAL OF THE ARMY—EMBARKATION—THE VOYAGE—SHIP ON FIRE—ARRIVAL - AT MALTA—JOIN THE RESERVE BATTALION—PROCEED TO ALEXANDRIA—THE - VOYAGE—ARRIVAL—VISIT PLACES OF RENOWN—VISIT CAIRO—THE - NILE—ARRIVAL—THE CITY—BAZAARS. - - -At the end of February, 1856, the diplomatists at Paris agreed upon an -armistice during the discussion of a treaty of peace. The immediate -effect was observable in the Crimea, as soon as the several commanders -had received information. On the morning of the 1st March, a white flag -was hoisted on the Tchernaya bridge, and near it assembled the Russian -commander, a staff of officers, and a troop of Cossacks. The English -commander with his staff, accompanied by others from the French and -Sardinians, descended across the valley to the bridge where they met the -Russians with whom they discussed the details of an armistice. The -cessation of hostilities was to last one month, during the consideration -of the treaty. Through the aid of their interpreters they decided that -the Tchernaya river was to be the boundary between the opposing armies. -The quietest month spent by the allied armies in the Crimea was the -month of March, 1856. Hostilities were entirely stopped, and yet none -could say whether they might not commence again with all their horrors. -The diplomatists at Paris had one month to decide the question of peace -or war. - -The commanders, while maintaining their boundary arrangement, did not -prohibit friendly meetings of the opposing armies on their respective -banks of the boundary line, where the officers and soldiers frequently -assembled to look at each other in peace and try to converse in a -friendly manner across the stream, when the exchange of coins and other -small articles or mementoes took place, and an interchange of civilities -such as "bono Johnny," "bono Francais," "bono Roos," besides other -complimentary expressions. This intercourse was kept up during the month -of the armistice. For the rest, the operations of the month differed -little from those of the camp at Aldershot, all the divisions being -exercised and reviewed in the open spots all round the camp. Sometimes -the Russians held their reviews on the same day that we did, with the -glittering bayonets of each full in view of the other, and both alike -safe in the conviction that no unfriendly shot would disturb the pageant. - -On the 23rd of this month, festivities in the French camp celebrated the -birth of an heir to the French imperial throne; bonfires were kindled, -guns fired, reviews held, horse-racing on the banks of the Tchernaya, -healths drank by the French and their allies, even the Russians -participated in the rejoicings, for they lighted fires all along their -lines. - -April brought with it the treaty of peace. Before the hour had arrived -when the armistice would have expired, news was received that the treaty -had been signed at Paris. When peace was proclaimed, an interchange of -invitations took place between the Russian army and the allies. The -Russian soldiers came over to our camp, in small parties at a time, -and we did the same to their camp, each party in charge of a -non-commissioned officer. I and twelve privates visited the Russian camp -and their bazaar, which we found much the same as our own. All sorts of -English goods were sold there, even "Bass's bottled ale," and "Guiness's -porter," at a dollar a bottle. Their bread was as black as your boot; -the coffee-houses were crowded with English, French and Russian -soldiers, drinking, singing, and dancing; and the interchange of any -amount of "bono Johnnys," "bono Roos," and "bono Francais," trying to -make each other believe that they were great friends. - -On the 17th April, the British and French troops had a grand review on -the heights near St. George's Monastery (at which General Luders, the -Russian commander, with his brilliant staff, was present). They were -formed up in line of continuous quarter distance columns of battalions, -when the commanders of the different armies with their gorgeous retinue -of staff and cavalry officers rode along the line, with the bands of -each regiment playing in succession; after which they marched past the -grand assemblage of commanders and staff, in quick time, each regiment -marching past in grand division style, with its band playing in front. -General Luders returned deeply impressed with the appearance of the -allied armies, and expressed himself much gratified at the attention -shown him by the allied forces. Duties of a more serious character, -however, now demanded the attention of the Generals. Large armies were -to be removed from the Crimea, and vast stores of provisions and -ammunition; besides all the round shot the Russians had fired at us -during the siege, which we had gathered and carried on our back to the -railway depôt for shipment to England with all the commissariat stores -brought down from each divisional depôt at the front where they had been -collected in such immense quantities. Day after day, during the summer -months, did the various regiments leave the Crimea, some for Malta, -others for the Ionian Islands, the West Indies, or Canada, but the -greater part for England. All the camp equipage and stores for each -regiment had to be brought into transport order, and everything brought -to Balaklava for shipment. - -About the 10th of May the 17th Regiment marched from their old camp on -Cathcart's Hill, and embarked at Balaklava at two o'clock in the -afternoon, on board the steam transport "Sir Robert Low." At 3 p.m. we -moved slowly out between the rocks which overhang the narrow entrance to -the harbour. We were all on deck with tears in our eyes, taking a last -sad look towards "Cathcart's Hill" where we had left so many noble -comrades behind in that cold desolate plateau, so far away from friends -and relatives; these thoughts filled us with sadness. As our ship glided -through the beautiful calm, blue waters of the Euxine, the land faded -from our view. We then turned our thoughts homewards after giving thanks -to God for the great mercy he had shown in bringing us safely through -all the death struggles and hardships which our brave troops had -suffered; and now that we were returning alive we had every reason to be -thankful. - -The weather being fine, we made the passage across the Black Sea in 48 -hours. The second day at two p.m., we passed the old fortress of Riva -which commands the entrance to the Bosphorus, passing Constantinople at -3 o'clock, taking a last look at that strange old city, with its -picturesque sights, the tall minarets and the blue waters of the -Bosphorus catching the golden light as the sun dipped behind the distant -hills. We rounded Seraglio point and steamed down the Marmora, passing -the Seven Towers on our right, and slowly the beautiful city faded from -our view forever. We had a smooth passage across the Sea of Marmora. -Next morning at ten o'clock we passed Gallipoli. On the 14th May, at 9 -o'clock in the evening, as our ship was running at the rate of ten knots -an hour, an alarm of fire came from the cook's galley. The troops were -immediately formed up along the decks, and the pumps manned. After a -quarter of an hour's hard work we mastered the fire, and put it out, but -not before it had burned a large hole in the ship's deck, and destroyed -the galley. We had in truth a narrow escape, the fire nearly getting the -better of us. On the morning of the 17th May we arrived at Malta, where -we received orders to proceed to Quebec. The Regiment being over the -strength of non-commissioned officers, those who had families at home -got the preference of remaining behind, and joining the reserve -battalion at Malta. I was one of the latter; after bidding good-bye to -the old regiment, with tears in my eyes, I disembarked with twelve -others and joined the reserve battalion. The regiment proceeding to -Canada next morning at 8 o'clock, we after landing, were quartered in -Strada Reale Barracks. - -The garrison was at this time filled with the soldiers of more than one -nation, and the medley of tongues was rather bewildering to the ears, as -was the diversity of costume to the eyes. There were the Italian and -German Legions promenading the streets in their gay uniforms, Malta -fencibles, English artillery and infantry. The large number of soldiers -in such a small place made it a perfect military hot-house. - -The Strada Reale, with its lazy moving crowds and singular architecture, -was soon entered. Lights were beginning to brighten the shop-windows and -streets; occasionally sparkling from the numerous bay-windows above; but -though the night was approaching, the air, deeply impregnated with the -fumes of tobacco and odour of garlic, was close and suffocating, more -especially from the intense heat exhaled from the arid rock, which had -all day blazed under a fierce sun. The barracks were so crowded, and the -weather so hot, that the doctor ordered the 17th under canvas at St. -Frances' Camp. An order detailed your humble servant, Corporal Faughnan, -to proceed on June 6th, by one of the Peninsular and Oriental Company's -steamers, to Alexandria, there to take over some marine invalids -according to written instructions, and take charge of them to Malta. - -June 6th. At nine o'clock, a.m., I embarked on board the steamer for -Alexandria. As we passed out of the harbour at 9.30, the sky was blue -and pleasant, the air balmy and clear. The Island, like a blue cloud in -the distance, faded away, and again the trackless waste of waters -stretched like a boundless expanse around us. - -June 9th. It is now three days since we left Malta. We should have been -in harbour to-day, but have been retarded somewhat by head winds. - -June 10th. Expecting to enter port this morning, I was early on deck. We -were already in sight of land. As we neared the coast, one of the first -things that caught my attention was the number of windmills, standing -upon an eminence along the shore; at first they reminded me of a line of -soldiers in skirmishing order, but as we neared them they lifted their -tall, circular forms, and stretched out their sheeted arms, like huge -sentinels keeping watch along the coast. The entrance to the harbour is -a tortuous and difficult one; vessels cannot get in by night or by day -without a very experienced pilot. We were straining our eyes to catch -the first glimpse of the strange land, and there, just upon that -projecting point of land we are now passing, where you see an -insignificant lighthouse, stood a famous and costly tower, bearing upon -its top, as it lifted its colossal form above the waves, a beacon-light -to guide the mariner to his haven. It is said to have been so lofty it -could be seen one hundred miles at sea—which of course, is a mistake. -The gigantic tower of white marble was erected by the old Egyptian kings -three hundred years before the birth of Christ. It was one of the "seven -wonders of the world." But here we are safe at our moorings. How strange -everything looks. There are the hulks of a number of great old ships, -rotting away and falling to pieces into the water. They were once the -Viceroy's fleet. The flags of many nations float from the masts around -us. There is a boat approaching with a Union Jack flying, and manned -with blue jackets. - -After landing the passengers, we had to pass through the Custom House. A -liveried servant in Turkish costume, guarding the door, politely bowed -us through, and we stood before the receiver of customs. He wore a rich -Turkish costume, a magnificent turban on his head, a gold-hilted sword -by his side; he addressed us in English and called all our names from a -list; as we answered we passed on. No other questions were asked; -personal baggage is seldom examined at this port. We had scarcely passed -the door before we were surrounded by a crowd of donkey boys in blue -shirts and red fez caps. They began pulling and snatching at our baggage -for the privilege of taking it to a hotel. Luckily, an omnibus,—a -European innovation,—from the very hotel we had selected, stood at the -entrance, and we made a sudden dash into it. A crack of the driver's -whip, and we were whirling through the dirty, narrow streets of the -Turkish quarter of the city. We soon emerged into the English part of -the town, and a magical change came over the scene; a fine open square -ornamented with fountains and surrounded with beautiful stone houses -presented a most inviting appearance. A runner from the hotel conducted -me to the Marine Hospital, when I presented the order for the invalids -to return with me to Malta, when the surgeon informed me that two of the -men had had a relapse and could not be removed for some time. This gave -me a good opportunity to visit several of the renowned localities, -places of antiquity, and monumental records, that the ravages of war and -the wreck of time have failed to obliterate. During the voyage I had -made the acquaintance of two Frenchmen, and after I got back to the -hotel they were pleased when I told them that I would have to stop at -Alexandria for some time, and did not know how long; they could speak -English pretty well and we got quite familiar. The hotel was kept by a -Frenchman, and the business of the hotel was conducted on the European -plan, but the floors and walls were constantly crumbling, scattering -sand and lime upon clothes and furniture, and affording plenty of hiding -places for bugs and fleas. Of the presence of the latter we had too -strong demonstration, but fleas in Egypt are as common as sand on the -sea shore, and we made up our mind to pay the tribute of blood demanded -by those pests, with the resignation of martyrs. - -We next visited Cleopatra's Needle, since removed to London. Of these -remarkable obelisks there are two, just within the walls and near the -sea shore at the northeast angle of the city—one is standing, the other -has fallen down and is now nearly buried in the ground. They are of the -same material as Pompey's Pillar, red granite, from the quarries of -upper Egypt. These two obelisks stood about seventy paces apart; the -fallen one lies close to the pedestal; its length, in its mutilated -state, is sixty-six feet, and was given, many years ago, by Mohammed Ali -to the British Government, who have lately brought it home. The standing -one is about seventy feet high, seven feet seven inches in diameter at -the base, and tapering towards the top about five feet. - -Next day we visited the Catacombs, which are about three miles outside -the city; the Frenchmen hired a guide and we all rode on donkeys. The -grounds near the entrance were once covered with costly habitations and -beautiful gardens. The vast extent of these underground tenements, their -architecture, symmetry, and beauty; the more wonderful from the fact -that they are all chiselled out of the solid rock, must excite the -greatest wonder and admiration. In these tombs, generation after -generation have laid their dead; Egyptians, Persians, Greeks, Romans and -Saracens have, no doubt, in turn used them, and different nations have -here blended in the common dust, at least such is the common opinion. -Ancient Alexandria, with all her magnificence and splendour, is now -nothing but heaps of ruins. The modern city stands upon the ruins of the -past—well may we say the great, immortal past. An Egyptian city at -night is a gloomy place—business suspended, shops all closed, no -amusements, no meetings, no windows next the street to shed even a -little light upon the gloomy alleys; all is involved in Egyptian -darkness, but silence is not there, for dogs are among the wondrous -speakers of this land. They howl about in packs like wolves, owning no -master, making night hideous with their row and fights; in addition to -this, the watchman's yell rang through the city every quarter of an -hour; it woke me more than the guns before Sebastopol; a calm of fifteen -minutes succeeds, and again the lengthened shout assures the citizen -"all is well." Being disturbed by the watchman's call, howling of dogs, -bugs and fleas, we could not sleep, so we were up early and had -breakfast at seven o'clock, after which we all agreed to visit Cairo, -and at once proceeded to the railway station, which, by the way, has -only been lately constructed. The present facilities for reaching Cairo -can only be appreciated by those who have been familiar with the former -slow locomotion of canal and river. Then it was by the toilsome process -of wind and oars. Now a first-class railroad of about one hundred miles -connects the cities. At ten a.m., the signal was given, and we struck -out into the great delta of the Nile; away to the left is the harbour of -Aboukir, where the immortal Nelson with his fleet met the French in -1798. His victory was complete; all the French ships except two, were -captured, and the victor was rewarded with the title, "Baron Nelson of -the Nile." - -The immense green plain stretched out each side of us as far as the eye -could reach. Crops of some kind are raised all the year round, except -while the soil is covered with water from the inundation of the Nile. -There is no cold weather to prevent the growth of vegetables. Look out -of the carriage window: do you see that long line of water just by the -side of us? It is the Nile. The Nile! The famous Nile, that has a place -in history with the Euphrates and the Jordan;—for thousands of years -sending out a living flood from its mysterious and hidden sources, -rolling onward through this great valley, and emptying itself, by its -seven mouths, into the blue sea; a river which the Egyptians worshipped, -and whose waters, by the rod of Moses, were turned into blood. - -About 5 p.m., our train came to a halt in the station of Grand Cairo. We -landed on the platform amid the strangest crowd of human beings I had -ever seen congregated. There was the Turkish official, with his great -loose sleeves and flowing robes, gold hilted sword and turbaned head, -loathsome looking beggars, wretched women and squalid children. As we -emerged from the station, a hotel porter, in English costume, addressed -us in English, "Shepherd's hotel, sir? Omnibus just here, all right!" -and in fifteen minutes we were in a good European hotel, built in the -oriental style, with a large open court and pleasure-grounds; terms only -two dollars a day. After tea, which was ready on our arrival at the -hotel, we took a walk through the city. The streets are numerous, narrow -and crooked, there being but one in the business part of the town wide -enough for a carriage; this public thoroughfare being only about 35 feet -wide, many of the others are not more than ten feet. The upper stories -of the houses projecting over the lower ones, and the large prominent -windows projecting still beyond the houses, the windows of the upper -stories are brought so near together, you could easily step from one to -the other. The bazaars are very busy places, and are thronged by a mixed -and motley multitude of people, camels, horses, donkeys, men, women, and -children, mingled together in strange confusion, while the noise and -bustle present a wild and striking scene that can be nowhere witnessed -but in an Arabic city. Amid this wild confusion may be seen a great -variety of oriental costumes. But the turbaned heads predominate, the -black of the Copt, the blue-black of the Jew, the green and white of the -Moslem are mingled in strange variety. There moves a lordly Turk with -loose sleeves and flowing robes, with all the solemn dignity of his -nation; the grandee, with his rich flowing robes of silk and lace, loose -breeches, white stockings and yellow slippers; the swarthy skinned, half -naked fellah, the bare-faced, half-dressed, toil-worn country woman with -tatooed lips and eyebrows, and by her side the dignified lady with -long, close veil, red trowsers, long yellow boots, and dress of -richly-embroidered cloth. These ladies ride astride of donkeys; the -ample folds of their long veils and loose robes almost hide the little -animal from view. - - - - -[Illustration] - -CHAPTER XXIV. - - THE PYRAMIDS—CROSSING THE NILE—ISLAND OF RODA—ARK OF - BULRUSHES—VISIT CHEOPS—HELIOPOLIS—PALACE OF SHOOBRA—PALM - GROVES—THE CITADEL—JOSEPH'S WELL—DERVISHES—RETURN - - -After hiring three donkeys to take us to the Pyramids next morning at -eight o'clock, we retired to rest and slept much better than we did the -night before; the live stock were not quite so numerous as they were in -the last hotel. We were up bright and early, had breakfast at seven -o'clock, after which we mounted our donkeys and were soon outside Cairo, -an old town on the banks of the Nile, founded upon the site of the old -Egyptian Babylon; it is much older than Grand Cairo. Here are the ruins -of the old Roman fortress, besieged and taken by the Turks. The solid -walls and high towers are yet standing, on the front of which may still -be seen the Roman eagle. This fortress has now become a Christian town -and is dedicated to St. George, the patron saint of the Copts. There are -also three convents here, one is occupied by the Roman, Armenian, and -Syrian Maronites, another by the Copts, a third by the Greeks. In this -Greek convent it is said that the Virgin and the Blessed Child, Jesus, -had their abode during their sojourn in Egypt; here, too, are ancient -structures said to have been built by Joseph, and used for treasure -houses, in which corn was stored for the days of famine. In an upper -chamber over one of the towers is an ancient Christian record sculptured -on wood in the time of Diocletian. It is well preserved and of curious -device; below is a representation of the Deity sitting on a globe -supported by two angels, on either side of which is a procession of six -figures representing the twelve apostles. Just on the opposite bank lies -Gizeh, from which the Pyramids are named, with a ferry at the upper end -of the town. As we approached the ferry, we were surprised at the number -of people who thronged the landing place; numerous boats of all -sizes were waiting for freight; donkeys and their riders, camels -with their huge burdens, ragged men and women, were mingled -together—antique-looking boats in strange confusion. After securing a -ferry boat we gave the boatman an extra sixpence each to land us for a -short time upon the beautiful little island of Roda whose grassy banks -and shady groves have long been the resort of pleasure parties from -Cairo. On this island stands the celebrated Nilometer; this is a square -chamber built of stone, in the centre of which is a graduated stone -pillar. By a scale on this pillar the daily rise of the Nile is -ascertained; this is proclaimed every day during the inundation in the -streets of Cairo. By this island, also, tradition fixes the place where -a daughter of Levi, under the pressure of that cruel decree, took an ark -of bulrushes, daubing it with slime and pitch and put the child therein -and laid it in the flags by the river's brink. At this island, the -faithful sister, Miriam, half concealed among the banks, watched with -anxious solicitude the fate of her infant brother. Are these the waters -that went rippling by the ark of the infant Moses, and over which he -afterwards stretched his miraculous rod, transforming them into a -torrent of blood? Oh Scripture, how wonderful thou art in thy story. -Landing from the boat, we were in Gizeh, an old town, the miserable -wreck of what it once was in the days of the Mamelukes. Passing along -these streets, large quantities of oranges, dates and other fruits with -bread and vegetables were exposed for sale. We bought some of these -things and had some lunch; after a half hour's rest we started again, we -had now about four miles to make across the open plain, the huge -pyramids all the time in sight; we passed three Arab villages on our -way. The appearance of indolence and poverty is everywhere apparent. A -dozen ferocious dogs with bristling hair and savage howl, were sure to -herald our approach. As we emerged from the last village the gray forms -of those great sepulchral monuments lay just before us; their huge -proportions seemed rapidly to increase as we neared them. They stand -upon a rocky eminence, their base elevated one hundred and fifty feet -above the plain just at the foot of the range of hills, behind which -lies the vast ocean of sands constituting the great Lybian desert. - -The ride was over, and we stood in amazement at the base of Cheops. -There are five groups of these pyramids, numbering in all about 40. They -extend up and down the valley for ten or twelve miles: most of them have -such gigantic proportions as to justly entitle them to a place among the -wonders of the world. They all stand upon the brow of the hills opening -back into the great Lybian desert. As we stood in deep contemplation, -gazing in wonder on this mighty structure we had come to examine, what -huge proportions; what an immense labour; what years of human toil! But -they were built for all that, and here they stand, and have stood for -thousands of years, defying the storms of the desert, and the lightnings -of the firmament; how wonderful are the works of men! About a dozen -Arabs, with loose trowsers, short jackets, and red fez caps, came up and -spoke to us. "Want to go up de top sah?" said the leader of the gang, -"me take you up, take you inside, all round." "How much you ask?" said -one of the Frenchmen. "He's the sheik," pointing to the best looking, -who stood erect, holding the folds of his striped gown about him with -all the dignity of a Turk, "he's the sheik, he make de bargains." We -agreed with the sheik, for a guide to show us up and down, inside, and -all round, for a dollar. We started with our guide,—we soon got up half -way, and there we stopped to draw breath; the steps are from two to -three feet, high, corresponding to the thickness of the layers of stone; -of these layers or tiers of stone, there are two hundred and sixty-five, -the ascent is quite fatiguing especially if one attempts to hurry; it -took us twenty minutes to reach the top. A few moments' rest and I began -to look about me, pondering on the magnitude of the stones, and the -numerous names in many languages carved upon them. Forty feet of its top -has been torn away, and what from the ground looked like a point too -small to stand on, is a broad platform, thirty feet wide. I was -surprised at the magnitude of the stones even at this height, two or -three feet thick, and several feet long, what wondrous labour it must -have been to elevate such masses of stone to such a height from the -ground, and yet men now say such nations were ignorant and uncivilized. - -I looked upon the broad plain that stretched away before me; there was -much charming in the air, at this height. I took a survey of the great -panorama, which lay in its variety and beauty at our feet. There was the -green valley of the Nile, stretching away as far as the eye could reach, -welcoming the golden sunlight that came down from the cloudless sky; -with the majestic and wonderful river, as it rolled in dignity onward to -its ocean home. Yonder in the distance were the Arabian hills skirting -the vast expanse of the Lybian desert, that lay in bleak sterility -beyond; nearer by, a spot upon the landscape, was the great city "Grand -Cairo," its great gray, towering citadel, its mosques and minarets. Then -I turned and looked down upon the battle field where Bonaparte, with -thirty thousand men, met Murad Bey; where the memorable battle of the -Pyramids was fought, and Abercrombie fell; where Bonaparte tried to -inspire his men with valour by pointing to these monuments, exclaiming: -"forty centuries are looking down upon you from these mighty structures." - -The thunder of the battle ceased, the smoke cleared away, thousands were -left dead upon the field, and the triumphant Bonaparte camped within the -walls of Grand Cairo. Cheops is a travellers' register, and many a -visitor has inscribed his name upon the summit. After adding our names -(an English barbarism I believe it to be; but it began in our -school-days) to the many already there, we descended in safety. As we -approached the base our guide led the way to the opening that conducts -to the interior. This entrance is on the north side, and about fifty -feet from the base. It is a low doorway for so magnificent a structure; -but who expects anything but a dark and dreary passage to the tomb? for -such is the place to where this opening leads, a tomb hidden in the most -stupendous pile of stones the skill and labour of man ever erected. The -entrance is a low one, and we had to stoop nearly double; we had entered -but a few feet when we found ourselves involved in darkness. Luckily we -had brought a couple of wax candles with us from Cairo; having lighted -the candles we continued to descend the narrow, dismal passage. Our -guide conducted us to the King's chamber; this is the great sepulchre -chamber of this astonishing structure. Its length is thirty-four feet -four inches; breadth, seventeen feet seven inches, and height nineteen -feet two inches. The only piece of furniture this chamber contains is a -chest of red granite, chiselled from a solid block; its size is larger -than the passage leading to the chamber, so that it must have been -placed there when the room was built. Was it for this sarcophagus this -stupendous pile of stones was erected? What has become of the lordly -occupant? When, and by whom was it filled and when did it give up its -treasure? There it stands in mute and mock defiance of every effort to -ascertain the history of its owner. Like the tomb of Jesus after the -morning of the resurrection, it was empty; the stone had been rolled -away from the door, but no angel sat upon it to give the anxious visitor -any tidings of its occupant. We now turned our attention to a few other -interesting objects in close proximity. I had often heard and read of -the Sphinx, but now I had the gratification of looking at this great -monster. We are first struck with its peculiar formation, and its -immense proportions. It is one hundred and twenty-eight feet long; from -the rock on which it rests its lion-like breast to the top of the head -is fifty-five feet nine inches. It is in a crouching posture, and it -stretches out its enormous paws fifty feet in front of its capacious -breast. This unwieldy monster is a monolith, cut from the native rock of -the limestone of which it forms a part. This imposing head was adorned -with a covering much resembling a wig, the flowing hair of which can -still be seen projecting from each side. Time, the driving sands of the -desert, and the hand of violence, have left their wasting influence on -this noble piece of Art. The horns that adorned the head have been -broken off, but there it stands without them, still grand, noble, and -majestic. - -The whole western bank in this vicinity of the green valley of the Nile, -for miles and miles, has been consecrated to the repose of the dead. -Here are the sepulchres of kings, mummy pits, ibis tombs and rock-hewn -chambers, for the magnificent sarcophagi of Apis bulls. Here countless -thousands have been gathered unto their fathers, and the sands of the -desert are every year covering them deeper and deeper. In the centre of -one of these pits was a large granite chest, cut from the solid block, -very much like the one I have described in the king's chamber in the -pyramid. This was covered by a lid of the same material. This lid had -been carefully lifted off and set on one side. Within the chest lay the -sarcophagus. It was covered with hieroglyphical figures and -inscriptions, and looked as fresh and perfect as when first deposited. -It had not yet been opened. Within that sculptured chest was sleeping -the mummied remains of some distinguished personage. For thousands of -years he had enjoyed here the quiet sleep of the tomb, among his fathers -and kindred; but now his long repose must be disturbed, and in some -far-off museum, inquisitive strangers would gaze upon the blackened and -withered features, and wonder who he was! After seeing those wondrous -ancient monuments of Egyptian greatness and idolatry, and paying the -sheik and backsheesh to our guide, we mounted our lively little donkeys -and returned to Cairo. - -The sun was just dipping his golden disk beneath the western horizon, -far over the distant deserts, as we entered the gates and wound our way -through the narrow crowded streets of Grand Cairo. We crossed the -suburbs, gained the hotel, and enjoyed a good bath. A hard day's toil -climbing the pyramids gave additional relish to the smoking viands, and -refreshed, we retired to bed to dream of stone-coffins, mummy-pits, and -sphinx. We awoke next morning from a refreshing sleep. The sun was -shining in at our windows, the songs of the birds were awaking inspiring -echoes among the tangled foliage of the Ezbekieh, and the air was -fragrant with the perfume of the sweet flowers of the East. The day was -to be devoted to an excursion to some place of interest a few miles from -the city. Breakfast over, we stood on the steps of the hotel and our -three donkey boys whom we had engaged were in readiness; we mounted our -donkeys and started off to visit the ruins of Heliopolis, the ancient -On, or the City of the Sun. These ruins are about six miles from Cairo, -and the ride a most delightful one, through green fields of corn and -various productions of the luxuriant soil. Now an orange grove opens -upon our sight, then an extensive vineyard, while all the time our -pathway was shaded by avenues of tamarack, fig and acacia, that wove -their branches in tangled arches above our head. As we approached -nearer, a beautiful obelisk lifts its slender form high into the -heavens, standing in solitary grandeur the only monument left to mark -the site of the ancient, opulent city. It is a single shaft of red -granite, sixty-eight feet two inches high, and six feet three inches -broad at the base. This is the oldest obelisk in existence, and here it -stands in its original position. Its firm base and towering head have -withstood all the assaults of time, the convulsions of the elements and -the devastations of war. The wreck and ruin of four thousand years have -not prevailed against it. The grounds around and in the vicinity of this -obelisk have been cultivated, here the fellaheen sow their seed and -gather their harvest, yet here stood one of the oldest and finest cities -of the world, and here are buried the remains of some of the earliest -temples. The ancient Egyptian name of the city, as interpreted, is the -"City of the Sun." The Greeks called it Heliopolis, and the Hebrews, -Bethshemesh (House of the Sun). This place was one of the most -celebrated seats of ancient learning; it was famed for astronomy as well -as the worship of the sun. The sacred bull, Mervis, shared also with the -sun the divine honours of the city, and was one of the most noted among -the sacred animals of Egypt. Not far from the obelisk is the beautiful -fountain of the sun; the water springing directly from the earth. The -people say this is the only living spring in the valley of the Nile. A -few yards from this spring a very old sycamore tree spreads broad and -thick its massive branches, forming an inviting shade. When Joseph and -Mary, with the child Jesus, fled from the jealous and cruel Herod, and -took refuge in Egypt, tradition says they reposed under the shadow of -these overhanging boughs and drank water from the renowned fountain. -Here, too, was the school of Moses. From the waters of the Nile that -flowed but a little distance from here, the daughter of Pharoah rescued -the weeping infant; and she called him Moses, for she "drew him out of -the water." In the court of Pharoah he found a home. Here he became -learned in all the wisdom of the Egyptians. How all those recollections -forced themselves on me. We next visited the palace of the Shoobra; it -is about four miles from the city and near the banks of the Nile. A -beautiful avenue, shaded by acacia trees, leads from the city to it; -when these trees are in bloom they fill the air with fragrance. The -grounds are beautifully laid out, and are frequently open to the public, -and large numbers of visitors resort to them. They are beautifully -diversified with terraces, walks, towers, flowers and shaded avenues. -Many of the walks are tastefully paved with small black and white -pebbles, wrought into various designs of Mosaic work. The great -attraction of the garden is a noble reservoir of water gushing from -marble fountains in the forms of crocodiles. From this beautiful place -where the senses are regaled by nature and art, we returned to the city -and made a special detour, in order to pass through an Egyptian date -palm grove. These groves are planted in rows like our orchards. It is -surprising what a variety of purposes the tree serves, and how useful it -is made. These trees sometimes grow from fifty to seventy feet high, and -are of uniform size from top to bottom. The summit is surmounted by a -beautiful crown of leaves. Every part of the tree seems to be of some -use; a charming beverage is made from the fruit, used among the natives; -wine is made from the sap. The bark and part of the wood are -manufactured into mats, baskets, and various other useful articles, the -leaves are manufactured into a great variety of fancy articles. But the -large crop of fruit is what renders it most valuable, and the failure of -the date crop is one of the greatest calamities that can befall the -land; the tree is also ornamental as well as useful. They are the most -beautiful and striking objects of Egyptian landscape scenery. This grove -is very extensive and spreads over several miles of the country. But -while we have visited these places of interest the day has rapidly -passed, and the evening sun is throwing his parting rays upon the -beautiful landscape, and we must hasten to our hotel. Once more we are -threading our way through the narrow streets of the city, and our ears -are saluted with strange sounds from the vendors of different articles, -as they hawk them about. The streets are passed, the din of cries die -away in the distance; we are back to the hotel; a long ride and the -delightful air has given us a good appetite for the evening meal which -was ready on our arrival. After we had done justice to the delicious -oriental viands, prepared for us by our hospitable host, we retired for -the night and slept well. After breakfast next morning, we walked out to -visit some of the ancient monuments of this wonderful city. The citadel -was the first object of our admiration. It is the fortress of the city -and tower of its defence, the depository of its munitions of war. It -stands upon a hill, its massive, frowning walls overlooking the city on -one side, and on the other the great barren desert that stretches away -towards the Red Sea. From this tower is one of the finest views that can -be obtained. First cast your eye towards the great Lybian desert, and -see the time-defying pyramids, from the top of which we have before -contemplated this land of the Pharaohs. On the other side, the beautiful -Nile, slowly weaving his serpentine folds through groves of palm, and -along green and flowery banks, and a city of three hundred thousand -inhabitants at our feet, with the massive circuitous walls that enclose -it; the great mosques and multitude of minarets that crown them all, -forming one of the most remarkable and striking peculiarities of a -Mohammedan country. Within this fortress stands a splendid palace of the -Pasha, and by its side the harem, with beautiful fountains and pleasure -grounds. - -But what astonished us most, is the wonderful contrivance to supply the -citadel with water; it is certainly worthy of the presiding genius of -the land. This well is cut into the solid rock to the enormous depth of -two hundred and sixty feet, and at the mouth fifty feet wide. Around the -wall is a winding stairway cut close into the rock, with a partition -wall of the rock left, about three feet thick, between it and the well, -with occasional holes for windows to look through into the main shaft. -Any one who has seen Dover shaft leading from Snargate street to the -heights, will at once understand how this well is constructed; the open -passage through the centre of that structure corresponding to the well; -the circular stairway winding round it, to the descent here, cut in the -rock, by which the bottom is reached. One of the most striking things -connected with the well, is the manner of elevating the water. A large -ox is taken down this winding stairway near to the bottom of the well -where a cog-wheel machine for raising water is situated. The food is -taken down to him, and he is kept here as long as he is able to work. - -This well was found covered up under a wall, by Sultan Yoosef (Joseph) -while clearing away the debris when building the fortress in A.D. 1711, -hence "Joseph's well." Turning from the well, we next pay a visit to the -mosque of Mohammed Ali. It is a gorgeous structure, the finest and most -renowned in Modern Egypt, standing upon the hill of the citadel and -inclosed by its ramparts; it lifts its proud form high above its -companions. The whole interior, pillars, walls, and arches is of -beautiful alabaster brought from the quarries of upper Egypt. - -The mosque is also a burying place. It is the tomb of Mohammed Ali. He -built it during his life, chiefly with the design of making it a -mausoleum for his ashes when his eventful career was at an end. A -conspicuous part of the building has been set apart for his tomb; a -railing surrounds it, gorgeous decorations have been lavished upon it, -and near it lights are kept continually burning. Here, in pompous state -he reposes, and dreams no more of rivals, of conquests, or of power. -Such is life! This being our last day in Grand Cairo, after tea we -walked round the city to see all we could of this ancient place, and -learn the habits of the people. - -Here may be seen exhibitions and illustrations of all the passions and -affections of the human heart. As we were returning to our hotel, we saw -under the shade of a tree a company of Dervishes. These are a singular -religious sect; they are anxious to obtain a reputation for superior -sanctity, and many of them make pretensions to the performance of -miracles. They are frightfully superstitious. Their devotional exercises -are often of the wildest and most extravagant kind. Taking hold of hands -in a large circle round a tree, they commence swinging their bodies -backward and forward, jerking the head and shaking the hands, keeping -time to a sort of murmuring exclamation, sometimes pronouncing the name -of "Allah." As the excitement increases, they toss their hair, foam at -the mouth, scream and seem to give themselves up to the wildest excesses -of religious enthusiasm. They let go hands and then commence spinning -round like a top, stretching out their arms. By the velocity of their -motion, spreading out their loose dress like a large umbrella, for -twenty minutes or more, without pause or rest, and continually -increasing velocity. These religious devotees will twirl with a rapidity -truly astonishing, making fifty revolutions a minute. We are indeed -sorry to see their example followed in England by the Jumpers, &c. But -we have seen enough of this foolish, useless, so-called religious -enthusiasm. It would be well if such energy and devotion could be turned -into a more useful channel. This, however, can only be done by God and -His Church. Here is our hotel, and our day's excursion is ended. - -We were up early next morning and had breakfast at seven o'clock, -settled our bill with the landlord, and rode to the railway station in -an omnibus, and took our departure by train at ten o'clock for -Alexandria. - - - - -[Illustration] - -CHAPTER XXV. - - THE HOSPITAL—MOHAMMEDAN SABBATH—DEPARTURE—THE VOYAGE—MALTA— - DEPARTURE—VOYAGE FOR ENGLAND—PORTSMOUTH—VOYAGE TO DUBLIN— - ARRIVAL AT LIMERICK—THE 6TH ROYAL REGIMENT—PROMOTED—ALDERSHOT— - ROUTE FOR GIBRALTAR—THE VOYAGE. - - -On my arrival at Alexandria, I went to the Hospital, where I was -informed that I would have to wait a few days longer. The men were fast -improving, but were not sufficiently recovered to warrant the doctor's -confidence of their strength, or to survive the trials of a long voyage. - -When I returned to the hotel, the two Frenchmen were waiting my return -for dinner. Next morning they were to leave Alexandria by steamer for -Jaffa, _en route_ for the Holy Land. After breakfast I accompanied them -to the steamer, and there we parted, perhaps for ever. They were jovial, -decent fellows, and we enjoyed each other's company very much during our -short acquaintance. Their names were respectively Napoleon Pomponnet and -Joseph Belair. - -It being Friday, the Mohammedan Sabbath, I visited one of their mosques, -which is always open and made a place of public prayer. Here the devout -come at all times of the day to perform their devotions; but the child -of the Prophet does not abstain from his ordinary work on the Sabbath, -except at the hour of prayer, about midday, and then the mosques are -crowded. The mosque is built round a central square; around this square -a portico is built, and in the centre of it is a fountain of water for -ablution. A good supply of water seems to be considered indispensable -among Mohammedans to purify for worship. The side of the building facing -Mecca is the most important one. The portico on this side is more -spacious, and has one or two extra rows of columns. This side of the -mosque is the place of prayer. A niche in the wall marks the direction -of Mecca, and in that direction the faces of the worshippers are always -turned—Christians always turn to the east. To the right of this niche -stands the pulpit, and on the opposite side is a raised platform, -supported by small columns, on which is a desk, upon which is kept a -volume of the Koran, and from it a chapter is read to the congregation. -The floors have no seats, and are covered with matting to accommodate -the worshippers; the rich and the poor pray side by side. Females -scarcely ever go to pray in the mosque; if they go at all they go at -different hours to the men, and by themselves—but they are taught that -it is better to pray in private. Indeed, it is said, women seldom, if -ever, pray at all! One little ceremony, however, must not be forgotten. -Do not attempt to enter a mosque with your boots on. Recollect that, O -Englishmen! These devout attendants would lift up their hands in holy -horror, and send you back as a dog. Stockings are not generally worn, -except by the best classes, who wear cotton socks in very cold weather; -the only covering for their feet ever worn is a low kind of slipper, -made of yellow morocco leather, sharply pointed and turned up at the -toes. As these are always slipped off when one enters a mosque they are -turned down at the heel. The Mohammedan Sabbath comes on Friday, the -Jews' on Saturday, and the Christians' on Sunday—the Lord's Day. Here I -am, where the Sundays come in succession, so that extremes meet, for we -have no Sunday at all, although five periods are set apart in each day -as special seasons of prayer. These, every good Mohammedan is expected -to observe, but they are neglected, and many persons, it is said, do not -pray at all. But this neglect does not arise from the want of an -admonition. From the minarets of their mosques the call is regularly -made. One of these calls is just after midnight, another about the break -of day. At the appointed hour, the muezzin ascends to the gallery of the -minaret, pitches his voice to a monotonous chant, and commences, "God is -great! God is great! Prayer is better than sleep! I testify that there -is no deity but God! I testify that Mohammed is God's prophet! Come to -prayer, come to prayer!" Sometimes quite long exhortations are given. -The Mohammedan Sabbath is but little regarded. The bazaars are all open, -and labour of every description is carried on. The mosques are opened an -hour at noon, and yet but few take any notice of the call to prayer. -Here are several Christian places of worship—both Roman Catholic and -Protestant—besides several Greek chapels. - -Monday morning at ten o'clock, I went to the hospital, when the doctor -informed me that the men would proceed by the steamer which arrived from -the east yesterday afternoon on her way to Malta. I then returned to the -hotel, settled with the landlord, came and received the invalids from -the hospital, and marched them on board one of the Peninsular & Oriental -Company's steamers. At two p.m. we moved out from the harbour, the sky -was of a deep blue, not a cloud or film of vapour as big as a man's hand -to cast a flitting shadow on the calm, blue waters as they glistened in -the summer's sun. I stood upon the promenade deck, my eyes intently -fixed upon the receding shore, and as it faded from my view I bade -farewell to Egypt, "Adieu, thou strange and wondrous land! land of the -old wonders, the phÅ“nix, the pyramids and sphinx, I shall never see thee -more! Egypt what a treasure book of history and of study thou hast been! -Once thou wert the pride and glory of the earth, but now how changed and -fallen! Thy temples and gods have crumbled into dust! Plundered even of -the remnants of thy former greatness! The occupants of thy tombs have -been borne away, thy obelisks removed, and what remained of thy statues, -altars and images, stolen to adorn the parks and enrich the museums of -modern cities. But, though thou sittest in silence, solitude and -degradation, the traveller will still come and muse among thy ruins, and -thou wilt ever continue to be teacher among the nations!" Such were the -reflections that passed through my mind as the dark line of shore grew -fainter and fainter, blending with the rolling billows of the deep blue -sea, till all was out of view. I looked about me—there was the ship on -which I stood, the deep blue vault of the heavens over my head, the vast -expanse of waters that encircled me, and all the rest had disappeared. -We have about four days' sail from Alexandria to Malta. The attention, -civility and politeness with which the passengers were treated during -this voyage by the captain and crew deserve our warmest gratitude. After -a delightful voyage of nearly four days, we entered the harbour of -Valetta about eight o'clock on the morning of the 25th June, 1856. After -landing, I reported myself at the brigade office, and handed over the -invalids at the general hospital, marched out to St. Frances' camp and -joined my battalion there. While stationed in Malta we were exercised by -the general commanding the garrison, with a battalion of the German and -Italian legion, twice a week on Flori-Anne Square. Except those general -reviews, we did very little drill, duty was very easy, and the rations, -to us, after the hard-tack we were used to in the Crimea, seemed -excellent. We got a generous supply of smoking warm goat's milk in our -coffee every morning and also for our tea in the evening. The milkman -brought his flock of goats round to our tents crying out, "milk! Johnny -me change milk with mungey for the goat." We traded pieces of bread for -goat's milk. - -The houses are built of grey stone; the streets are steep and narrow; -many of them have stone stairways cut in the solid rock, and some of -them are arched over head. One of the most venerable and interesting -structures in this ancient city is the old church of St. John, which was -built in honour of the patron saint of the knights; it is 240 feet long -by 60 feet wide. The most curious part of this church is the floor; -beneath it many of the old knights are entombed, and above them the -armorial bearings of all the Grand Masters of the order are inlaid in -Mosaic of various and beautifully coloured marbles. The hand of time has -faded the fine fresco paintings of the dome of this venerable structure, -but the elaborate Mosaic work of the floor is still the wonder and -admiration of every visitor. The climate is warm and exhilarating, the -air salubrious and invigorating, and many invalids come here from colder -latitudes to restore their health during the winter months. But our time -at this delightful station is short; we embark for England on the 18th -July. - -At last the long wished for day (by some) has arrived, and we embarked -on board H.M.S. "Simoom," in Valetta harbour at ten o'clock a.m. the -18th July, 1856. All being ready at two p.m. we steamed slowly out of -the harbour amid cheer after cheer from the citizens and soldiers who -crowded the batteries along the harbour to give us a last cheer and wave -of their handkerchiefs; we all stood on the deck returning the cheers -and waving our handkerchiefs also until the island, like a little cloud, -vanished from view in the distance. - -The sky was blue, the air clear and invigorating, and scarce a ripple on -the face of the deep. As our noble ship glided smoothly through the -clear blue waters of the Mediterranean, our hearts were glad and our joy -was great to think that we were returning to our homes, our families and -our friends, who were anxiously waiting our return. The afternoon was -occupied in swinging hammocks and drawing blankets and provisions from -the ship's steward; the men were in the best of spirits, and amused -themselves during the voyage in singing, dancing, and all sorts of -amusing games. We had excellent rations during the voyage, plum-pudding -and pea soup on alternate days. On the morning of the fourth day we -sighted the old rock of Gibraltar, rearing its lofty crest to the sky. -As we rounded Europa point our transport hoisted her number (every ship -that passes the rock must show her colours) which was answered from the -signal station, which stands on the loftiest point of the rock. At -twelve o'clock we cast anchor in the quarantine harbour where we had a -delay of two hours, during which time we were surrounded with bumboats, -selling all sorts of delicious fruits, oranges, lemons, cigars, tobacco -and pipes to the men. At two p.m. we weighed anchor and steamed down -through the straits, soon leaving the rock of Gibraltar far behind. As -our ship glided swiftly before a beautiful breeze with studding-sails -set, sweeping onward like some huge bird of prey through "The Gut," we -could not help noticing the contrast of scenery between the Spanish and -African sides of the straits; the former beautifully clothed in a mantle -of green, with herds of sheep pasturing along its undulating banks down -to the water's edge; while the latter with its barren-looking and sun -scorched hills, and tremendous precipices, rising several thousand feet -above the sea, looked more wild and picturesque. The evening was so -delightful, we all sat on deck till a late hour enjoying the sublimity -and grandeur of the scene; the moon shone so clear and brilliantly from -her celestial throne, and the stars twinkling bright and shining in the -clear blue firmament, throwing a pale light through the face of the -deep, watching at the same time our noble ship, as she glided swiftly -through the smooth clear waters, dashing the sparkling spray and foam -from her bows. On the morning of the fifth day from Gibraltar, we sailed -round the green shores of the Isle of Wight, on the one side, while the -low sandy coast of Hampshire, indented by the roadstead of Portsmouth, -that showed a perfect forest of masts towering above its sea defences, -made the beautiful island look most lovely, recollecting it was the -place where Her Majesty lived and which she loved. We passed through the -stately ships of war, as they rode majestically at anchor; an -interchange of signals took place between the flag ship and ours, -directing our captain where to anchor we supposed, and soon we cast -anchor off Portsmouth harbour, and shortly after the troops disembarked -and marched to Anglesea Barracks, where we were quartered _pro tem._ -Soon after our arrival, my wife and two children joined me; we rested -here a week when we embarked on board a mail steamer for Dublin, landing -at the north wall on the 6th August, after a rather rough passage; all -the women and children were sea sick; marched to Kingsbridge station -where we took the train for Limerick; arriving there at four p.m. we -joined the depôt in the New Barracks. I was here about three months when -my oldest child, a boy six years old, took sick with the scarlet fever, -and on the 23rd November, 1856, he died. I was very happy previous to -this, but the death of this only boy made me very sorrowful. - -On the first of March, 1856, I was appointed assistant school teacher at -the garrison school, where I continued until the 22nd November, 1856, -when I volunteered with several other non-commissioned officers to the -2nd Battalion 6th Royal Regiment, which was then being raised at Preston -by Lieutenant-Colonel Fraser. Our depôt being over the strength of -non-commissioned officers, we were allowed to volunteer to this new -battalion. At ten o'clock a.m. on the 22nd November, after signing our -accounts, and receiving our pay up to that time, we took the train for -Dublin, thence by steamer to Liverpool, where we landed at 7 o'clock on -the morning of the 23rd, had breakfast at a hotel, and proceeded by the -ten o'clock train to Preston; arriving there at two p.m. marched to -barracks, and reported ourselves at the orderly room of the 2nd -Battalion 6th Royal Regiment. Next morning at ten o'clock, -Lieutenant-Colonel Fraser, with Adjutant Kitchener, inspected us at the -orderly room, and posted us to our respective companies. That evening my -name appeared in regimental orders thus: - - "REGIMENTAL ORDERS BY LT.-COL. FRASER, - COMMANDING 2ND BATTALION, 6th ROYAL REGIMENT. - PRESTON BARRACKS, 24th Nov., 1857. - -1085, Corporal Thomas Faughnan to be Colour-Sergeant from the 22nd -instant, and posted to No. 5 Company. - - By Order, - (Signed) H. KITCHENER, - Lt. & Adjutant 2nd B., 6th R. Reg't." - -Next day Lieutenant Kelson, who commanded No. 5 company, appointed me -his pay-sergeant. The company were 150 strong, and not one of them had -yet received their uniform and kits. Between the drills and parades -which were long and frequent, I drew the recruits' uniforms, knapsacks, -and kits from the quartermaster's store, marked them myself, and had -their clothing altered and properly fitted at the master-tailor's shop. -I must say the Crimea was nothing to what I went through in Preston. -After the battalion had got organized, clothed and drilled, we got the -route for Aldershot. - -On the 26th February, 1858, at 10 o'clock in the morning we proceeded by -rail to Aldershot, arriving at Farnborough Station at 4 o'clock in the -afternoon, and marched to South Camp, where we were quartered in the -huts of L lines. During our term at Aldershot, the battalion was put -through a strict course of drill. On the 15th of April, H. M. the Queen, -and H. R. H. Prince Albert, received the troops in camp, when we marched -in grand divisions. They were much pleased at the manner in which the -movements were performed by the young battalion, and H. R. H. Prince -Albert expressed himself in a highly complimentary manner to the -general, who conveyed it to the troops in orders. After the review was -over, Her Majesty and Prince Albert drove round the camp in an open -carriage as the men were at dinner, when the band of each regiment -played "God Save the Queen" as they passed each respective regiment. -That was the last time I ever saw H. R. H. Prince Albert, for he died, -deeply lamented by the British Army, on the 14th December, 1861. On the -second of May we received a letter of readiness for Gibraltar. On the -12th, the colonel received the route to proceed by rail on the 18th -inst., to Portsmouth, there to embark on board of H. M. Ship "City of -Manchester" for Gibraltar. On the morning of the 18th May, 1858, the -second Battalion 6th Royal Regiment marched from South Camp to -Farnborough Station, where we took the train for Portsmouth. The signal -being given, the train moved out of the station with its lively freight -of redcoats, rattling steadily on over the beautiful green landscapes. -Trees seem to go rushing past; still on and on, panting in its rapid -course, flies the long train, clattering past walls and bridges with a -crash, whistling shrill to warn the unwary of its approach, and howling -like a demon pursued, as with hiss and roar it plunges into the tunnel. -To describe all the incidents which came under my notice at the station -might be thought tedious. Suffice it to say that we arrived at -Portsmouth at 2 p.m. and embarked on board H. M, Ship "City of -Manchester," in the main dockyard. At 4 p.m. all being reported present -and correct, the captain gave the signal and we moved out from the wharf -amid loud cheers from the spectators, which were heartily returned by -the red coats on board, and we passed down the bright, sparkling Solent, -glistening in the sunshine of a beautiful May day. - -The spectacle was not lost on many of us, as our ship passed through the -crowds of magnificent men-of-war and transports, with their sails -glittering like silver in the summer sun. After we passed through the -Needles, late in the afternoon, the wind being favourable, we spread our -wide canvas to the evening breeze, and now the sun went down leaving a -pale glare over the dark horizon; the wind began to freshen and the sea -to rise. The beacon on the Eddystone lighthouse faintly faded like a -little spark and disappeared; on went the good ship bounding beneath a -starry firmament, the dim trackless ocean stretching before us like the -undiscovered realms of the future, and I once more bade farewell to -England. At nine o'clock the last post sounded, when those who were not -already in their hammocks now turned in. I stopped on deck watching the -sailors reefing sails and handling the ship, and when tired of listening -to the piping of the wind through the rigging, and the shrill sound of -the boatswain's whistles, I followed the example of my comrades and -turned into my hammock. I was awakened in the middle of the night by a -tremendous noise on deck. Footsteps rattled, shuffled, and stamped above -my head, and every now and then, amidst hoarse shouting, whistling and -yells of "Aye, aye, sir," there was a sound of banging down upon the -deck of heavy coils of rope. The ship was tilted over very much on one -side, and at times shivering from bow to stern as a heavy sea struck her -on the beam. Several of the recruits on hearing this uproar, jumped from -their hammocks with fright; some thought the mast had gone overboard, or -that the ship was on fire, or had sprung a leak and was fast going to -the bottom; but I divined the cause at once, and told them that the wind -had changed and the sailors were reefing topsails, when they all turned -into their hammocks again. - -The motion of the ship, now heading against a heavy sea, became very -unpleasant; she heaved, jolted, and pitched so that I found it in vain -to sink again to sleep, but after a couple of hours I again sunk into -the arms of Morpheus, where from a heavy and dreamless slumber I was -once more aroused between five and six o'clock in the morning by the -orderly-sergeant rousing the men to stow away hammocks and wash decks, -and a hard job he had of it, for most of them were very sick. Just hear -the orders and the replies: "Peter Riley, come get out of that hammock," -said the sergeant. "Tommy Devanny," said a voice, "d'ye hear the -sergeant? Are you going to lay there all day like a lazy land lubber?" -"Och, sergeant, I'm that sick, I'm as wake as' wather, an' not able to -stand on my feet, I'm so sick!" "You get a piece of fat pork, and bob it -up and down your throat, then swallow it and see if that doesn't get you -all right," "Och, sergeant, for the love of God, lave me alone, I'm -dyen, send for the docther, and the Lard have marcy on your muther's -sowl." The latter supplication was addressed to Sergeant Bramall, who, -unable any longer to restrain his indignation, had seized the blankets, -and was tugging and tearing them out of Private Tommy Devanny's hammock. -A thud on the deck, and a loud roar of laughter, announced that the -sergeant had succeeded in dragging the offender from his hammock. - -The men were soon up and busily engaged, the pump and hose were set -going, and the inundation and swabbing went on briskly; all hands were -at work with swabs, scrubbers and scrapers. The ship was still heaving, -although the warm sun had burst through the heavy clouds. When the -breakfast bugle sounded at eight o'clock many of the recruits were -absent through sea sickness. Time will not permit me further to detail -the distresses of landsmen who encountered at starting a gale of wind -which lasted nearly two days; I only wish, good reader, you may never -experience it. I shall simply record the satisfaction experienced by -many of the redcoats on board the "City of Manchester," when the wind -changed and sent us flying at the rate of ten to twelve knots an hour, -as we shaped our course across a well-known bay of tempestuous -character, which, however, on the present occasion was found quiet -enough. It was, however, a joyful moment when the rocky and precipitous -coast of Cape St. Vincent, loomed up distinctly through the hot mist of -the early morning; and before many hours had elapsed our transport was -bounding before the breeze through the straits of Gibraltar. The men -were now perfectly recovered from sea-sickness, and they assembled on -deck looking out for the long wished-for haven, and gazed on the -much-talked of "old rock of Gibraltar," which was to be our present -home. At three o'clock p.m., 25th May, 1858, we moved into our moorings -at the new mole, and in half-an-hour disembarked and marched to the Town -Range Barracks, and part to the Wellington Front and King's Bastion. - - -[Illustration] - - - - -[Illustration] - -CHAPTER XXVI. - - ARRIVAL—SPANISH BULL-FIGHTS—LIEUT. JACKSON—CHANGE QUARTERS—THE - ROCK—MONKEYS—CAVES—GARDENS—WAR IN ALGIERS—CORFU—VOYAGE— - ARRIVAL—SANTA MARIA—DESERTION—THE MARCH—GREEKS. - - -The 2nd Battalion 6th Royal Regiment was stationed in Gibraltar four -years, during which time we were changed from one barracks to the other, -about every twelve months. In the summer of 1859, H.R.H. the Prince of -Wales visited Gibraltar, when the troops gave him a right royal -reception. St. Michael's Cave, all the caverns and subterranean -passages, as well as the city, were illuminated on the occasion, with a -grand military ball at the convent, and a public one at the theatre. The -inhabitants turned out _en masse_, and gave him a hearty welcome as he -drove through the streets in an open carriage, with military bands -playing and guards of honour as he entered and got out of his carriage, -at the entrance to the convent. On the 31st July, Captain J. E. Tewart -joined the regiment, and took charge of No. 5 company at the King's -Bastion. On the 15th of August, myself and several other sergeants of -the garrison, with their wives, rode into Spain, some on horseback; more -on side-cars, to witness a bull-fight at San Roque. On arrival we put up -our horses at an hotel, and paid a dollar each to go in. - -Where the bull-fight was held is a large structure capable of containing -ten thousand people. It is built of stone, with seats like a circus, and -enclosed with a high wall of ancient architectural design, gaily -ornamented, with flags waving all round on its summit. - -One half of this enclosure is allotted and tastefully decorated, with an -elaborately fitted box and a canopy surmounted with the Royal Arms of -Spain, for the Royal family, and a splendid military band on a platform -over the entrance. When drawing near the opening scene, the seats were -all filled with a gaily dressed audience, the Spanish ladies in their -gorgeous fineries, with their fans waving continually. In the ring were -six mounted cavaliers, armed with lances and coats of mail, and six more -on foot, with silk mantles lined with crimson across their arms, and -swords drawn. - -Then the gate flies open, and the bull rushes into the ring; the people -cheer and shout; the bull roars and paws the ground, runs at a horseman, -when the rider sticks him with his lance. Madly he rushes at a red cloak -held out by a footman, and falls headlong on his face. In this way they -tease him until he foams with rage. The footmen throw gaily dressed -loaded darts, and stick them in his neck, when the dart explodes with a -loud report. This maddens him; he shakes his head, and rushes at a -horse, tearing out his entrails and raising him on his horns; the -footmen fool him with the red cloaks and loaded darts. When the bull -corners a man, he slips into a side place made for that purpose. After -he is well exhausted, and having over two dozen darts dangling from his -neck, the professor undertakes to kill him. He plays with him a long -time, fooling him with the red cloak and sword; at last, when he gets a -good chance, he sinks the sword to the hilt just in the back of the -head. When the bull gives the last roar and drops, throwing his life -blood out of his mouth, the professor salutes the audience, who cheer -him vociferously. - -Three gay teams of smart ponies, with rich trappings, enter the ring and -draw off the dead bull and horses; when the band plays while the ring is -being cleared for another fight. As we returned from the bull fight, we -passed some Spaniards who were driving mules; the road being narrow, one -of the sergeants shoved a mule out of the road, when the Spaniard threw -a stone, striking one of the ladies who were on the side car; then -colour-sergeant Marshall jumped down to chastise the Spaniard; they -closed on each other, the sergeant throwing him down in the scuffle; the -Spaniard drew his stiletto and stabbed the sergeant, who cried out "I am -stabbed," when the Spaniard ran away. Some British sailors who were -passing at the time gave chase and caught him; one of the sailors took -out his jack-knife and cut the sign of the cross deep on the Spaniard's -back, saying, "if I have to swear against you, I will have a mark so as -I may know you again;" giving the Spaniards a good thrashing, they left -them. The wound which the sergeant received did not seem much at first, -but he was taken to the hospital where he lay for eight days, and died -from the wound, deeply regretted by the battalion. The Spaniard was -caught, tried, convicted, and transported for two years, on the sailor's -evidence, who marked him on the back with the jack-knife. - -After putting in four months in camp at the Old North Front, where we -went through a course of rifle instruction and ball practice under our -instructors, Captain Kerr, Lieutenant Nugent and Sergeant Parkinson, we -were changed to the South Barracks. Here the colonel and officers -encouraged all sorts of amusements amongst the men. Each captain -purchased a boat for his company, and the sergeants got out a splendid -outrigger 40 feet long, from Clasper, the famous boat-builder on the -Tyne. In addition to the boating, Lieutenant Jackson, of the Royal -Artillery, organized garrison reading rooms, where all the latest -periodicals and newspapers, with excellent libraries, were at the -service of the troops, and even schools where the men could learn -English, French and Spanish, and all sorts of amusing games, such as -billiards, bagatelle, backgammon, dominoes and chess. This is what ought -to be in every barracks, it keeps the men from the low dram shops and -saloons and makes men and soldiers of us, giving us _esprit de corps_! -Lieutenant Jackson was a barrack-room word with the garrison. He made -himself very popular amongst the troops by the unremitting exertions he -used in order to improve the condition, habits, education, comfort, and -amusement of the non-commissioned officers and privates of the garrison. - -At those barracks the Roman Catholics and Protestants occupied the same -church, the former at ten o'clock and the latter at eleven. The English -Church chaplain, Rev. Mr. Gardiner, was a most elegant preacher, and a -very popular clergyman, so much so, that the sergeants of the 6th -Regiment subscribed and sent to London for a beautiful bible, which we -presented to him, with an address, couched in the warmest expressions of -admiration and gratification for his ability as an eloquent preacher, as -well as his sincerity, enthusiasm, passionate ardour, and unremitting -attention to the spiritual and temporal welfare of the 2nd Battalion 6th -Royal Regiment, who will long remember Mr. Gardiner as being a father to -both Roman Catholics and Protestants of the battalion while stationed at -Gibraltar. The Lord bless him and keep him, prays the author. - -The rock is about three miles long, by three quarters of a mile broad. -Its inhabitants are called "Rock Scorpions". They are composed of -English, Italians, Spaniards, Moors, and Jews. The population, exclusive -of the garrison, is about 16,500. The strip of peninsula connecting -Gibraltar with Spain is called the "Neutral Ground." - -The approaches both from the Neutral Ground and from the sea are guarded -by a great number of very powerful batteries, so that the rock may be -regarded as impregnable. Monkeys are very numerous and can be seen from -the Alameda, looking down from the rock on the soldiers at drill, and -running up and down the old Moorish Wall leading to the signal station; -some of them are very large. In visiting the company's barrack room, -when orderly sergeant, one day, the men being all out at drill, I found -a large baboon stealing the men's bread off the shelf in the barrack -room. As soon as he saw me he sprung out of the window, on to a wall -which divided the steep rock from the barracks, then stood and looked at -me. They watch the barrack rooms from this wall and when they see the -men going out to drill they enter the rooms and steal the bread. The -rock at its highest point attains an elevation of 1,440 feet above the -sea. It is perforated by numerous caverns, the largest of which is -called Saint Michael's Cave, which has an entrance about 1,000 feet -above the sea. Thence there is a descent through a succession of caves, -some ample chambers, others mere passages through which it is barely -possible to creep, to a depth of 500 feet below the entrance; at this -point the foul air has barred further ingress, but the roaring of the -sea has been distinctly heard, which leads to the inference that these -gloomy hollows have communication with the waves beneath. Large -stalactites are found in most of the caverns, and congealed stone, of -which many useful and ornamental articles are made by the soldiers and -others, such as shirt-buttons, brooches, studs and rings, with several -other useful articles. There are no springs of fresh water on the rock, -and the inhabitants are therefore compelled to depend on the heavy -rainfall, and every precaution is adopted to preserve as much of the -water as possible; large tanks are placed so as to catch the rain water -off the roofs of the houses, and conduits are made to guide the water -from the rock surface into great public reservoirs. Among the latter, -the Navy Tank, for the supply of ships coming into the port, is -conspicuous, its capacity being 11,000 tons of water. - -At present England guards this formidable rock with jealous care; every -available point of defence bristles with guns: the steep rock is -honeycombed with galleries and bombproof barracks; deep ditches with -drawbridges, steep escarps, bar all approach, and batteries are hewn in -the solid rock, frowning alike on friend or foe. The drawbridges are -closed when the evening gun fires at sun-down and are opened at sunrise -by a sergeant detailed for that duty, who is called the "key sergeant," -his post when not opening or closing the gate, is at the Convent guard, -where he keeps the keys of the fortress. There are several pleasant -walks about the rock, but perhaps the best is in the Alameda, and the -gardens situated at the south end. They are prettily laid out; a bronze -bust on a column has been erected in these gardens to the memory of -_General Elliot, its heroic defender_. Plants and different sorts of -tropical flowers, dwarf-palm, Spanish-broom, the yellow blossoms of -which are mixed with the varied colours of fuchsia,—orange and -oleanders interspersed along the beautiful walks and round the shaded -rustic seats, with the profusion and aroma of the flowers rendered it a -most charming promenade, and during the fine evenings military band -performances take place, when it is usually thronged with visitors. - -The adjacent Spanish towns of Campamiento, San Roque and Algeciras are -much resorted to by excursionists from the rock, and during the summer -months are selected by numerous families for a prolonged stay. However -little pleasure or interest a ride over this arid and sandy plain -affords, when once arrived at Campo, the rider enjoys a most charming -prospect, as there is probably no other point from which the isolated -rock appears so grand or picturesque than from this neat little village. - -During the summer of 1860, a war raged between the Queen of Spain and -the Dey of Algiers, when about five hundred women and children of the -Moorish Jews from Algiers fled to Gibraltar for protection; they were -sent to the North front where they were supplied by our authorities with -tents and rations during the war, which lasted for six months; their -husbands were kept behind to fight, and only a few old men accompanied -the women to Gibraltar. After putting in a little over four years on the -rock of Gibraltar, we embarked on the afternoon of the 25th June, 1862, -on board H.M.S. "Himalaya," which lay at the New Mole, for the island of -Corfu. As we lay at the wharf expecting to go to sea early in the -morning, Rev. Mr. Gardiner came on board about eight o'clock, to bid the -battalion a last farewell; the moon was clear and shone down with a -silver brightness on the mass of redcoats who assembled on deck to hear -Mr. Gardiner address the battalion. He stood on the quarter deck and -delivered a most eloquent and sympathetic address, which touched the -men's hearts, and drew tears from most of those strong soldiers who were -present. - -At five o'clock next morning we steamed out from the New Mole and -proceeded round Europa point, passing the pillars of Hercules, and as we -steamed out we gradually lost sight of the coast, which was beautifully -illuminated by the rising sun, affording us a last glimpse of the old -rock of Gibraltar. This magnificent transport, one of the best in Her -Majesty's service, is kept up to man-of-war fashion in discipline and -cleanliness. After a splendid voyage of five days we reached Corfu at -two o'clock in the afternoon of the 1st July, 1862. No. 5 company, -consisting of Captain Tewart, Lieutenant Hall, and Ensign Græme, myself -and four sergeants, and one hundred and sixty rank and file, were -ordered to proceed on detachment to Santa Maura, and No. 3 company to -Ithica. During the afternoon the head quarters and the companies for -Corfu disembarked, the companies for detachment stopped on board, and at -four o'clock next morning the steamer proceeded with these detachments -to their respective stations, arriving at Santa Maura about three -o'clock in the afternoon of the following day, when we disembarked, the -"Himalaya" proceeding on to Ithica with No. 3. Company. The garrison of -Santa Maura, consisted of Captain Tewart (commandant), one garrison -sergeant-major, four sergeants, and two hundred rank and file, including -the artillery; that day I was appointed garrison sergeant-major and -orderly room clerk besides. We were stationed at Santa Maura about -twelve months. One of the Austrian steamers came in every Sunday morning -with the mails from Corfu. I had to answer by seven p.m. the same day, -when the steamer returned. This was the only mail during the week. The -island of Santa Maura is separated from Greece by a broad lagoon which -abounds with wild ducks; they came in immense flocks in the evening to -feed during the night, and flew away at daylight. Many a night the -officers of the garrison put in after those ducks. After drills and -parades the men amused themselves with different games, such as cricket, -ball-playing, skittles, and pitching quoits. There was only one thing -that marred our pleasure, and that was desertion; an idea had got into -the heads of some of the worst characters to desert—Greece being close, -and only the shallow lagoon between them and freedom; a few of them, -whom we were much better without, deserted into Greece. - -We had a lance-corporal named John Smith (a Yankee), who was in charge -of a fatigue party outside the barrack gate, where he induced the six -men to desert. The alarm being given by the sentry on the battery, that -the fatigue party were escaping across the lagoon, I seized a rifle, ran -out the back gate, loading as I went along, sighting it for six hundred -yards. I fired at Smith as he was crossing the water, striking him in -the heel, knocking the boot off his left foot, leaving it behind in the -water where we found it with the bullet hole through it. After they got -into Greece they were free, and we could not touch them; they carried -the wounded man off with them. - -A man named John Nobles, who was servant to Lieutenant Hall, robbed his -master of thirty-six sovereigns and deserted into Greece. The sentry on -the battery saw him with his dog early in the morning walking on the -spit towards Greece, but did not suspect that he was going to desert as -he told the sentry that he was going to give his master's dog a run on -the spit, when he let him pass, as he was an officer's servant. About -ten o'clock in the morning, the officer missed his servant; his -suspicions being aroused he opened his cash box, and found the money -gone; he reported it to Captain Tewart, who ordered myself and a -corporal to start after Noble, the chief of police sending a policeman -as an interpreter. We scoured the country as far as Missolonghi, where -we arrived about six o'clock in the evening, and were shown great -attention, and treated well by the Tetrarch, who sent an escort of -cavalry with us next morning, besides furnishing us with horses. We -divided into three parties, each taking a different road; towards -evening we halted at a village. I put up at a respectable private house, -there being no public houses in the place; my escort were billeted on -the people of the village. It being their dinner-hour, the hostess -spread a clean white cloth on the carpet in the middle of the floor, on -this were placed a pepper-box, salt-cellar, and a roll of bread for each -person, little mats were placed round on which the dishes were placed in -succession; all sat down cross-legged round the cloth; a long narrow -strip of white linen was spread round on our knees; there were eight -persons sitting round this spread. A large soup-tureen containing a kind -of thick soup and meat stood in the centre, when we were all politely -invited to commence. They all dipped their spoons in the tureen, and -asked me to join them, but I declined by saying that "I did not like -soup just then." After soup other dishes, consisting of stewed mutton, -fish, rice, milk, vegetables and fruit were handed round; they all -helped themselves. The left hand is used to convey the food to the -mouth, the thumb and two first fingers doing the duty of forks. There is -a neatness in the Grecian way of manipulating the food that can only be -acquired by care and long practice; the thumb and two fingers alone must -touch the meat, the rest of the hand remaining perfectly clean and free -from contact with it. An amusing incident occurred, tending to increase -our merriment. Mustard, an unusual condiment on a Greek's table, was -handed round, perhaps in honour of my presence. An old lady, not knowing -what it was, took a spoonful, and before any one had time to interfere, -had swallowed it. Her face became crimson, tears ran down her cheeks, -she sneezed and appeared choking; but at last, with a supreme effort she -regained her composure and tried to look as pleasant as circumstances -would allow. It is considered a mark of great attention on the part of -the hostess, to pick the daintiest bit of food, and place it in the -mouth of any of her guests. Native wine was handed round, in small -tumblers. I managed to make an excellent dinner, being used to squatting -down to my meals in camp before Sebastopol; therefore I was not at all -awkward on this occasion. Dinner being over, the cloth was removed, when -coffee and cigarettes were handed round. Next morning we had a cup of -coffee and started off scouring the country; at last we passed through a -wood where we saw Noble's dog, and close to him was the body of Noble -covered up with a little earth. We immediately acquainted the -authorities, who held a post-mortem examination on the body. We then -searched and found the guide that accompanied him, and had him searched, -when the money was found on him, except two dollars which Noble had paid -for horse-hire for himself and his guide. When travelling along through -the wood, this Greek guide whom he hired to show him the way, murdered -him for the money, and buried him in the woods. Only for the faithful -dog we might never have found either the murdered man or the murderer. -The money was retained by the Greek authorities until after the trial. - -We then retired to Missolonghi, when I returned the Tetrarch many thanks -for the assistance he rendered us in securing the murderer and the -money. He then gave me a letter of congratulation to the Commandant, -when we returned to Santa Maura. - -The guide was tried by the Greek authorities, when, by a force of -circumstantial evidence, he was found guilty and sentenced to penal -servitude. - - -[Illustration] - - - - -[Illustration] - -CHAPTER XXVII. - - SIR HENRY STORKS—ALBANIA—VISIT NICROPOLIS—THE BRIGAND CHIEF— - TURKISH BATHS—COFFEE HOUSES—TURKISH LADIES' COSTUME—SERGEANTS' - BALL—THE ROUTE—CORFU—ROUTE—WEST INDIES—THE VOYAGE—THE - BURNING MOUNTAIN—GIBRALTAR—MADIERA—TENERIFFE—SANTA CRUZ— - CAPE DE VERDE ISLANDS—TRINIDAD—JAMAICA. - - -In the month of October, Sir Henry Storks, Lord High Commissioner of the -Ionian Islands, with his aide-de-camp, visited Santa Maura, when he -inspected the troops, barrack and fortifications, and expressed himself -highly pleased at the appearance and discipline of the troops, the -cleanliness of the barrack and the good order and thorough repair in -which the guns, shot, shell and fortifications were kept. Several of the -naval officers of H. M. S. "Icarus," in which he came from Corfu, -accompanied him on shore and invited the commandant to lunch with them -on board. In November, myself, two other sergeants, and three Greeks, -went on an excursion to Previsa, a town in Albania, seven miles across -the bay. We rowed across in a large four-oared boat. The entrance to the -harbour was indeed a pretty sight; nothing could be more romantic than -the little bay stretched out before us, the variety and beauty of the -numerous groves of olive and fruit trees along the banks, the number of -little boats gliding about on the smooth, clear, blue waters, and small -vessels cruising from one island to another, with the tall minarets -towering high above the numerous white houses, making up as charming a -picture as could be imagined. On landing we were surprised to see the -appearance of the town. A few of the houses are good, substantial -buildings and comparatively clean and comfortable; but the rest of the -town had a dirty and slovenly appearance. The streets are narrow and -crooked, the shops are little recesses from six to eight feet deep, -without windows; they close with folding doors, which are thrown open -during business hours. Here the occupant sits, sells, works and carries -on almost every conceivable kind of business. In one of these places you -can see a dry-goods merchant with his stock stored in a little space not -more than eight feet square: The floor is elevated two steps above the -street and the tradesman sits behind a little counter. The customers -stand at the open front and all the business is done in the street; -every one sits down, the merchant sits at his shop, the mechanic at his -work. - -It is amusing to see what ingenuity they exercise in getting everything -within their reach, that they may not change their position. After we -had walked through several streets we visited the barrack, where the -guard turned out, and the sentries presented arms as we passed their -posts; we supposed that they did not know our rank or else they never -would have presented arms, but we were neatly dressed in our uniform and -swords, and we supposed they took us for commissioned officers. One of -the Turkish officers accompanied us around the barracks and showed us -through the hospital. Oh! what a contrast between British soldiers' -barracks and hospitals and the Turkish, the latter are dirty and the men -dirty, squatting round the rooms and lounging on their little, -dirty-looking beds, and the hospital was even worse; the smell was -intolerable, the boards black and greasy, in fact everything was filthy -and smelled strongly of oil and garlic. - -We thanked the officer and left the barracks. - -One of the Greeks who accompanied us took us to a friend's house where -we had luncheon, which consisted of rolls of brown bread, cheese, salad, -cakes and coffee; after which we hired six Turkish ponies and started -off to visit the ruins of the ancient city of Nicropolis. A ride of -fifteen miles in an easterly direction from Previsa, was soon passed in -pleasant and cheerful company; the beauty of the groves, the luxurious -vegetation, the mild and balmy air, all conspired to add to the pleasure -of the ride; and now we are approaching the ancient city. What do we -see? Before us immense ruins for miles around, old walls towering high -in the air, wide enough to drive a coach and four on their top, with -high-arched doorways. A large amphitheatre with massive stone seats, -encircled by a colossal wall, surmounted with ancient looking figures in -marble, half man, half beast. - -After visiting a great many of these wonderful old ruins and learning -all we could of their ancient history from our guide, who was well -informed and could make himself understood in English,—at his -suggestion we took a detour to visit some robbers' caves, which he said -were worth seeing. - -One of the wild, deep passes through which he led us is celebrated as -the scene of the exploits of a robber chieftain, named Abdallah Niebhr. -No one could go through this narrow pass without his sanction. The -solitary pedestrian as well as the grand carriage were alike the object -of his plunder. The whole country stood in fear of him; travellers -trembled at his name; a pasha on one occasion, attempting to pass here -with his retinue, was shot dead by this daring bandit. For over forty -years he contrived to elude capture and prosecuted his career of -bloodshed, plunder, and crime. At last he and his accomplices fell into -the hands of the Turkish authorities and were sent to Constantinople. -The passage is now safe and has been for many years, but the remembrance -of these bloody atrocities often sends a thrill of terror through the -heart of the timid traveller. Continuing our journey through olive -groves, we arrived at our friend's house at seven o'clock, and had just -time for a bath before dinner. This refreshed us after our journey in -the hot sun and also increased our appetites to relish the dish of lamb, -roasted whole, and stuffed with rice and pestacheos, besides other -trimmings, consisting of rolls of brown bread, eggs fried in butter, -cheese, garlic and oil, fruit and vegetables. Dinner being over, coffee -was handed round, and at ten o'clock we retired to rest. After a good -night's rest we were up early and had a Turkish bath. This is by far the -best fitted and most useful part of the whole establishment. It -comprises a suite of three rooms, the first is a square apartment, -chiefly constructed of marble, and terminating in a cupola studded with -little panes of glass through which the light enters; a deep reservoir -attached to the outer wall, with an opening which is heated by a furnace -built under it, a number of pipes attached to the furnace circulate -through the walls of the bath and throw great heat into it. A graceful -fountain conducts the water from the reservoir, and on each side of the -fountain is a low wooden platform which serves as a seat for bathers, -who sit cross-legged, and undergo a long and complicated process of -washing and scrubbing. The second room is called the Touklouk, is -constructed very much in the same style, but is smaller and has no -furniture but a marble platform upon which mattresses and cushions are -placed for the use of those who wish to repose between intervals of -bathing, or do not wish to face the cooler temperature of the Hamman -(the first room). This room is furnished with sofas, on which the -bathers rest and dress after quitting the bath. Turkish women are very -fond of this bath, and capable of remaining for hours together in that -hot and depressing atmosphere. They smoke cigarettes, eat fruit and -sweets, and drink sherbet; and finally, after all the blood has rushed -to their heads and their faces are crimson, they wrap themselves in soft -garments and pass into a third or outer chamber, where they repose on a -luxurious couch until their system shakes off part of the heat and -languor that these baths produce. A bath being an indispensable -appendage to every house, one is to be found in every Turkish dwelling. - -The outer bath-room is a large stone building, lighted by a cupola, with -wooden platforms running all round, upon which small mattresses and -couches are spread for the men. A fountain of cold water stands in the -outer hall of the public baths. Coffee houses are to be met with -everywhere, and are very numerous in the towns. The Albanians resort to -them when they leave their home early in the morning to take a cup of -coffee and smoke a nargile before going to business. In the evening they -step in to have a chat with their neighbours and hear the news of the -day. Turkish newspapers are becoming common of late in these -coffee-houses, and are to be found in all of them. Few of these -establishments possess an inviting exterior or can boast any -arrangements with regard to comfort or accommodation; a few mats are -placed round on a raised seat, and some low stools for strangers; small -gardens are attached to some, where the Turk may be seen sitting -cross-legged and smoking his tchibouk, while others atone for the -deficiencies of their interior by the lovely situation they occupy in -this picturesque and luxurious land. What a Turk heartily enjoys is his -tchibouk and coffee, sitting by the side of a running stream, or in some -spot commanding a fine view. This quiescent pleasure he calls "taking -kaif" (comfort): on the whole his capacity for enjoyment is rather of a -passive than an active kind, The costume worn by ladies consists of a -gown of cloth or damask silk, with a border of similar workmanship; -opening upon the breast, it displays a handsome white silk gauze frill -round the neck; the sleeves hang loosely at the wrists, covered by a -velvet jacket, richly worked with gold thread: indoors they wear a red -cap covered with pearls and precious stones; the slippers are equally -adorned with embroidery and jewels according to the rank of the lady. -The yashmak (veil), and feridji (cloak), are universally worn by Turkish -women of all classes out of doors. The former varies according to the -rank and place of residence of the wearers, from ordinary calico to the -finest tarlatan, while the latter may be of almost any colour or -material, but green is the prevailing colour; the trowsers of red silk -hanging loosely over a high-heeled and neat fitting yellow morroco boot, -which wrinkles over the ancle. As we were standing in the consul's -office getting our passports vized, Sergeant Parkinson's rifle was -accidently discharged, the bullet passing through the ceiling over the -office. The consul's lady had a narrow escape, for the bullet passed -through her dress. After paying the consul fifty cents each for having -our passports vized, and thanking our friend for the attention shown us -while at his house, we departed, rowing back to Santa Maura, where we -arrived at nine o'clock in the evening, after enjoying three days' -pleasure which will be long remembered by us. - -At Christmas the sergeants gave a ball, and issued invitations to -several friends and a few civilians. Dancing commenced at eight o'clock -and kept up with "esprit" till twelve, when supper was announced, after -which the president proposed the health of the Queen which was drunk -with a right royal good will, the band playing the National Anthem, and -afterwards toasts, songs and speeches were indulged in by many round the -board; when dancing was again resumed, and kept up till the small hours -of the morning. - -On the 9th May, 1863, we were relieved at Santa Maura by a detachment of -the 9th Regiment, the "Holy Boys," who arrived from Corfu in the -morning, by steamer, and we embarked on the same steamer in the -afternoon for Corfu, arriving there by five o'clock next morning, when -we were ordered on detachment at Vedo, a small island close to Corfu, -but a strong fortification commanded by Colonel Sankey, of the 9th -Regiment, where garrison duty and field days were frequent. - -On the 6th November, the British government agreed to give up the Ionian -islands to the Greeks. On the 1st of January, 1864, Colonel Hobbs took -command of the 2nd Battalion 6th Royal Regiment, vice Colonel Fraser, -and on the same day we commenced to blow up the forts, before giving up -the island to the Greeks. In Vedo, the lunette and keep were blown up by -the end of January, and Fort Neuf and the citadel were all demolished by -the 1st of March, 1864. - -On the 4th of March, 1864, the 2nd Battalion 6th Royal Regiment embarked -on board of H. M. S. "Orontes," for Jamaica, in the West Indies. At two -o'clock in the afternoon we steamed out of the harbour and bid farewell -to the Ionian islands. The weather was fine and clear, the water blue -and smooth; our ship glided onwards at the rate of ten knots an hour, -soon leaving the land far behind. In the evening the moon shone forth in -all her glory and brightness on the face of the smooth blue waters of -the Mediterranean. - -On the evening of the third day we sighted Mount Etna, raising its fiery -summit towards the sky, and sending up volumes of fire and smoke as it -were among the stars, illuminating the country for miles round. Many of -us stopped on deck till a late hour watching this grand phenomenon. - -On the morning of the 10th of March, we arrived at Gibraltar, and moored -alongside the New Mole. Here the regiment disembarked and encamped on -the New Mole for a week, with a view to the health of the troops, during -which time the ship coaled, cleaned, and was fumigated. At the same time -the troops got their linen washed, and everything clean and ready for -the long voyage to the West Indies. - -On the 17th of March we again embarked, and in the afternoon moved out -from our moorings and proceeded round the New Mole, and passed -Bona-vista Barrack, when we bid a last farewell to the old rock of -Gibraltar, and, as the day was well advanced, hastened on so as to pass -through the straits before dark. Early next morning we passed the -southerly point of Europe, and as we steamed on we gradually lost sight -of the land, which was beautifully illuminated by the rising sun, -affording us a faint view of the sun-scorched peaks of the African -coast. The weather was delightful, with scarce a ripple on the water. - -On the morning of the 21st of March we passed close to the beautiful -island of Madeira. The first impressions of this island are delightful -and striking, with its luxurious gardens smiling with gorgeous flowers, -and its mountain sides cultivated almost to their summits with beautiful -plants. Nature exhibits herself here with such varied charms that -imagination can scarcely picture a lovelier scene. - -The product which has made the name of Madeira famous and familiar is -its wine, now produced in great quantities; this and the cultivation of -the sugar-cane form its principal trade. At twelve o'clock we passed the -Desertas, a group of barren rocks. These rocks appear to be only -frequented by fishermen. One of these isles is a high pyramidical rock -which at a distance very much resemble a sail. - -March 23rd. At daylight the brilliant light on Cape Teneriffe was -descried ahead. We ran in for the land, and the high precipitous rocks, -all bleak and bare, here and there broken by deep and rugged clefts, -rose in bold outline before us. Somewhat later, as the clouds cleared -away, the celebrated Peak was in sight, a grand and solitary object -towering to the clouds in seeming desolation; for, although there is a -certain amount of fertility on its sides, it was not apparent as we -approached it. By eight o'clock we ran into the wharf at Santa Cruz, -and, after a visit from the health officer, all were free for a run on -shore while the ship was coaling. There is little at Santa Cruz itself -to interest the stranger. The houses are poor structures, the streets -are narrow, but they are kept very clean; there are no public buildings -with any pretensions to taste or elegance. Nevertheless, one is repaid -for a stroll in the country, where the scenery is remarkably wild and -impressive—deep ravines, from which bold rocks, rise abruptly, void of -every trace of vegetation except a few cacti and other hardy plants. - -There is a sort of wondrous grandeur in this volcanic scenery—in the -scorched craters of these enormous rocks, ribbed at the sides, no traces -of life, no appearance of vegetation—all is arid, dry, and parched, -while away to the southward can just be discerned a fine picture of -woodland scenery, arresting the eye at once by its great contrast, and, -as it were, compelling one to admire the extreme beauty afforded by the -charming landscape. Here and there were noticed inclosures of cacti, -used in rearing the cochineal, which with the castor-oil plant, appears -to be largely cultivated for exportation. I and two sergeants, with our -wives, entered a saloon to take refreshments, as well as to learn the -custom and habits of the people. During the time we were enjoying the -lunch, we heard the landlady say to her husband in Spanish, "charge them -English well, they have plenty of money," fortunately one of the -sergeant's wives, being a Spaniard, understood what was said, when they -had a most amusing row in the Spanish language, the landlady coming off -second best; she did not get as much out of us as she had anticipated. -Santa Cruz boasts of a very ancient and time-worn cathedral, which we -visited. It was here that Nelson (1797) undertook an expedition against -Teneriffe, which although unsuccessful and disastrous, displayed great -heroism and bravery. The two flags captured on this occasion are -retained in this old cathedral, and the inhabitants still bear in mind -the attack and repulse. Here the immortal Nelson lost his arm, and it -was the only affair in which he was unsuccessful. - -Toward evening we left the harbour of Santa Cruz, the bright moon-light -affording us a capital view of the Peak, which frowned upon us in all -its grandeur, its head hoary with many a winters snow. A fine favouring -breeze was with us all night; at dawn of the following morning the -island of Teneriffe was looming far behind us on the distant horizon. -From the present may be said to commence our dreary, monotonous, long -voyage, from the pillars of Hercules in the east across the broad -Atlantic to the West Indies. Life on board ship and the varied incidents -at sea, all tend to rouse feelings and sensations which are reserved -alone for those whose business is on the great waters. To the officers -and soldiers—as well as the ladies, the routine on board ship, -especially of this splendid transport, was entirely different from that -they had hitherto enjoyed on shore. Fortunately the varied scenes were -under most favourable circumstances as regards the weather. At first the -usages of naval, every-day life seemed particularly vexatious, and -annoying, when so many human beings were packed so closely into such a -small space; but after a few days, when sea-sickness had been got over, -one and all perceived, to a certain extent, the necessity of order, -cleanliness, and good discipline. Scrubbing, washing and holystoning the -decks, cleaning brass and wood work, the troops parading, watches -assembling, sailors mustering at quarters and divisions, are all -measures which tend to enforce the discipline so essential to good -government. Existence in the limited space of a ship, with so many -troops on board, for weeks completely isolated from the outer world, is -so peculiar and interesting to those unacquainted with the sea, that I -may be permitted to make a few remarks as to our daily routine. From the -hour of four o'clock in the morning, as soon as the watch has been -mustered, bustle and activity begin, lasting throughout the day, and -even to the hour when the night reminds one of sleep; pumps are manned, -water is splashed over the decks in all directions, yet it is absolutely -essential to the preservation of the health and comfort of the troops -and those on board. By six o'clock the washing is nearly finished, when -all the hammocks are piped up and stowed. It is now time for breakfast, -consisting of cocoa and biscuit. The men then prepare and dress for -parade at ten o'clock, which lasts for about an hour. At noon the dinner -bugle sounds, and although consisting as it invariably does, of either -salt junk or plum duff, or salt pork and pea-soup, there are few men -healthier than soldiers while on board ship. Grog time comes next (when -half a gill of rum, lime juice, with two pints of water are supplied to -each man), and with the hour of smoking, constitutes a pleasant break in -the day. During the afternoon the band plays on the quarter deck, and -the men sit around in groups, singing, dancing, and all sorts of amusing -games, until four o'clock, when the sailors assemble at their stations -with rifle, cutlass, and pistol for inspection by their divisional -officers. The inspection over, the sailors resume their work to make or -furl sail, according to the wind. Supper is now prepared, consisting of -tea and biscuit, after which, at eight o'clock, smoking is permitted, -but not between decks, hammocks having been piped down at 7.30. - -The orderly officers always go the rounds of the decks, to ascertain -that all is correct, when those off watch are expected to turn into -their hammocks; and so ends the day and its duties. This was the routine -every day during the whole voyage. - -At six o'clock p.m., the officers, both naval and military, usually dine -together, when the incidents of the day, and the progress of the ship, -and other matters which are sure to turn up, form a lively -conversational hour, during which time the band plays. After dinner the -assembly of smokers usually muster on deck where all sorts of yarns and -topics engross the attention until bed-time. Sunday alone seems to break -the monotony and routine of every day life at sea; when after divine -service at ten o'clock, the remainder of the day is usually spent in -reading or sleeping. - -On the morning of March 31st, we sighted Cape de Verde Islands, and by -two in the afternoon we took in coal at Port Grand, St. Vincent; here we -had a good view of African negroes, who coaled our ship with baskets -which they carried on their heads. They were very tall and powerfully -built men, with no clothing except a little round their loins. What a -contrast in the scenery between this place and Madeira! Here are barren -rocks, and not the faintest indication of vegetation to be seen in any -direction, although its formation is somewhat similar. - -The town, if it can be so named, consists of a few straggling houses and -the stores of the coal contractors, situated along the shore, while -stretching away behind are several high, rough and jagged peaks and -mountains, affording a fine background for the barren and uninteresting -coast scenery. - -Next day, at eight o'clock, we reached Santiago, another island of the -same group; here we stayed for two or three hours. The houses, with a -few exceptions, were poor specimens of habitations, nearly all built of -stone, and one story high. The interiors present only a few articles of -absolute necessity; of home comfort or cleanliness, in our sense of the -word, they seem to have no idea. - -The population appear to be made up of an intermixture of Portuguese -settlers and negroes, who cultivate little patches of land in the -valleys where are produced a few tropical fruits. - -During the voyage our drum-major and a private fell down the hatch-way; -the soldier was killed and the drum-major severely injured, so much so -that it laid him up for ever afterwards. - -After parade next morning the bell tolled, and the regiment were present -to pay their last tribute to their comrade. The ship's captain read the -beautiful and appropriate service for a burial at sea, and on reaching -that portion, "we commit his body to the deep," it was slid out of the -port, wrapped in a hammock, with a round shot at its feet, into the -bright, blue, deep sea, to be seen no more until that day when the sea -shall give up its dead. - -On the 12th we cast anchor in the harbour of Trinidad, where two -companies were landed on detachment. The town has no pretensions to size -or elegance, it is, however, most picturesquely situated along the shore -of the island, backed up by a curiously shaped hill with a large pitch -lake on its summit. This is a very important port of the West Indies, -particularly for the mail service, some eight or ten different lines -reaching here monthly. - -At four o'clock in the evening we left the anchorage under sail and -steam, with a fresh evening breeze, running along at twelve knots an -hour. On the 18th April, 1864, at 7 o'clock, a.m., the island of Jamaica -was in sight. At nine o'clock we took a pilot on board to navigate the -vessel through the intricate and dangerous narrows between the reefs. As -the ship approached and rounded Port Royal, we cast anchor in Kingston -harbour at eleven a.m. As we lay at anchor, the sight was indeed -beautiful, the city with its white houses peeping out from amongst the -dark green foliage; with Newcastle looming up in the distance with its -white wooden barracks, on the side of St. Catharine's peak, with its -lofty summit towering towards the heavens, the mountain covered with -forests of mahogany, cedar, yellow sander and coffee plantations, and -the valley covered with large green plantations of sugar-cane. Nature -was indeed looking charming; the view in every direction was -exquisite,—look where we would there were nature's beauties before us. -The entrance to the harbour at the end of Port Royal, broken into little -islands, where tradition says a town was submerged by an earthquake, the -sparkling sea running here and there into creeks, bays and inlets, -together with the evergreen foliage of tropical trees and flowers, made -up a very attractive landscape, which gave us a most favourable -impression of Jamaica. Directly in front of us are the landing-place and -jetties, where several vessels are flying the flag of Old England. - -At four o'clock in the afternoon we disembarked and formed on the quay, -where we were surrounded by a conglomeration of the inhabitants of all -shades of colour. After detailing two companies for detachment, one at -Port Royal and the other at Uppark Camp, we marched off to Newcastle, a -distance of 18 miles, seven of which were up a steep, mountain, zigzag -foot-path. The weather being so hot we did not attempt to march during -the heat of the day. The word being given, we marched off with the band -playing, followed through the streets by a motley crowd of negroes, -mulattoes, and creoles, raising a cloud of sand and dust as we advanced. -After a very fatiguing march of ten miles we halted at a place called -the gardens, where we piled arms and rested for two hours, resuming our -journey at one o'clock in the morning, up a mountain road which tried -many of our best marchers, arriving at Newcastle barrack at sun-rise, -very much fatigued after the march during the close, warm night. But as -we marched up the mountain the wild scenery surpassed anything that I -have yet seen, and compensated somewhat for the fatiguing march;—the -mountain side clothed with the loveliest tropical fruits, hanging over -our heads as we stooped under them by the way, bananas, mangoes, -tamarinds, pine-apples, pomegranates, bread-fruits, oranges, lemons, -coffee and sugar-cane; while the air was perfumed with the aroma of the -sweet smelling rose-trees, oleanders, fuchsias, myrtles, ferns, and -odoriferous magnolias, with the deep gullies at our feet where the -sparkling waters jump and foam as they rush in torrents down the steep -rocks, towards their ocean home. - -One must travel a long way indeed before he meets with prettier scenery -or a place that will surpass in fragrance and loveliness the floral -beauty and picturesque landscapes of this island. - - - - -[Illustration] - -CHAPTER XXVIII. - - JAMAICA—THE EXHIBITION—MARKET—REBELLION—THE COMMISSION—COL. - HOBBS—THE VOYAGE—ROUTE—VOYAGE—QUEEN'S BIRTHDAY—EDINBURGH— - CARLTON HILL—TOLBOOTH—QUEEN MARY'S ROOM—DUNOON—DISCHARGED— - DALKEITH—GLASGOW—EMBARK FOR CANADA—THE VOYAGE—ARRIVAL— - MONTREAL—KINGSTON—PICTON—THE DUNKIN BILL—THE MARQUIS OF LORNE. - - -The barracks or camp were situated on a high ridge of St. Catharine's -mountain, called Newcastle, famous for its exhilarating, pure air, with -immensely deep gullies on each side; each wooden hut built on terraces, -one above the other, consists of one room. The officers' quarters were -neat little isolated cottages, surrounded with lovely flowers, trees, -and shrubs. The parade ground was a large terrace which had been -excavated and levelled with a nice mound round its lower edge, forming a -promenade as well as a drill ground. We had one large wooden building -where divine service was held by all denominations in their turn; it -also served as a schoolhouse and lecture hall. The married sergeants' -quarters were distributed on each side of the ridge, in separate little -cottages, with flower gardens to each. The means by which the troops -were supplied with water was a novel and most clever proof of our -engineer's skill. From the upper end or source of the gully stream, -which was many feet above the barracks, the water was conducted along -the brow of the ridge by means of a large trough of bamboos resting on -trestles, passing into a large reservoir situated a little above the -barracks, from which pipes conducted the water to the respective -quarters and rooms. Before this improvement, the water had to be carried -from the bottom of the gulley in large leather bags by donkeys, and was -doled out to the troops daily. Above the barracks on a flat side of the -mountain, Col. Hobbs apportioned a garden for each company, which we -reclaimed and cultivated, raising almost all sorts of vegetables, viz: -yams, cocoas, sweet potatoes, cauliflowers, cabbages, potatoes, celery, -lettuces, &c., besides pineapples and strawberries, with a variety of -lovely flowers. - -Many of the officers and most of the colour sergeants kept horses. Being -the wine and mess sergeant to the officers, I had the privilege of -keeping four horses, which I frequently hired out to the officers. These -horses enabled us to travel through the mountainous country for many -miles. - -On Christmas eve of 1864, one of our much respected comrades, Qr.-M. -Sergeant Thomas Bellinton, died of heart disease, much regretted by the -battalion, leaving a wife and three small children to mourn his untimely -end. - -In the beginning of 1865, Colonel Elkington was appointed Deputy -Adjutant-General at Kingston. During the summer we had an exhibition in -the hall, of fancy, useful, and ornamental articles, manufactured by the -soldiers of the battalion; and the number of articles, as well as the -skill manifested in their manufacture, was very much admired by the -visitors from the City of Kingston and the surrounding country. Among -some of the distinguished visitors present, whose names the author -entered in his note book, were, Governor Eyre and lady, General O'Connor -and lady, Deputy Adjutant-General Lieutenant-Colonel Elkington and lady, -and others. Some of the articles on exhibition were wonderfully good, -and sold at a high price. A Lancashire weaver made a miniature loom out -of the bones which he saved from time to time, and wove a miniature web -of fine texture on it to the amusement of those present. This was bought -for fifteen pounds. William Sugden, a carpenter, made a model of the -cantonment of Newcastle, which was sold to Rev. Mr. Fife for fifteen -pounds. Henry Foreman, made a model battery from bone—sold for ten -pounds; Corporal Gilchrist, a bed quilt, sold for nine pounds. Other -articles, such as fancy work-boxes, shirt buttons, and several articles -of furniture and wearing apparel, too numerous to mention, were -exhibited and sold. In June, 1865, Sergeant James Rance, Officers' Mess -Sergeant, died of heart disease, leaving a wife and four children to -mourn his loss. I, being the senior Colour-Sergeant in the Battalion, -was chosen and appointed to the vacancy caused by his death. -Sergeant-Major Robert Hyde was promoted to Quarter-Master, and -Colour-Sergeant Neale appointed Sergeant-Major in his place. - -We had a market every Wednesday and Saturday round the canteen, when the -negroes from the country brought in all sorts of produce, some on -donkeys, but most on their heads. A line of black women might be seen on -those days, very early in the morning, coming to market along the narrow -mountain path, with baskets of yams, cocoas, plantains, bananas, -pine-apples, mangoes, oranges, lemons, bread-fruit and pomegranates, -besides provisions in abundance. These people come miles with their -loads, and barefooted, their clothes tucked up to their knees by a -handkerchief tied round a little below the hips, securing them in -graceful folds, with a light, gay handkerchief on their heads. They wear -light, showy garments, and are very fond of any common jewellery, which -they wear in their ears and on their fingers. - -We were enjoying every comfort in this delightful station, when we were -aroused by a report that the negroes had broken out in open rebellion at -Morant Bay. It appeared, from what we could learn afterwards, that a -local preacher, named George W. Gordon, had been for some time urging -the black population of Saint-Thomas-in-the-east to rise in rebellion -against the Government, telling them there were back lands which they -could get, and urging them to pay him money for the purpose of -agitation. This, it is said, was the doctrine he preached in his chapel. -And a few compatriots of his named Paul Bogle, William Bogle, William -Burie, James Burie, and others, were engaged in swearing in, drilling, -and organizing forces in order to attack the white population, when at -dinner on Christmas night, kill them, and take their wives. But an -accident occurred which fortunately, nay, providentially, brought this -base conspiracy to light. - -On the 7th October, 1865, which was Saturday, and market day at Morant -Bay, a Court of Petty Sessions was held in that town. A man who had been -convicted by the court for some crime, afterwards interrupted the -proceedings of the court, and when the police endeavoured to arrest him, -he was rescued from their hands by the mob. For this act, warrants were -issued against two ringleaders named Bogle, and several others. - -On Tuesday, the 10th, six or eight policemen and some constables -proceeded to Stony Gut to execute the warrants; they found Paul Bogle, -who, after the warrant for his apprehension had been read to him, told -them that he would not go with them. When they proceeded to arrest him, -he cried "Help here!" and immediately a body of men, from four to six -hundred in number, rushed out from Bogle's chapel and attacked the -police; these men were armed with muskets, pistols, cutlasses, pikes, -sticks and stones. The police were overpowered and severely wounded by -the mob. In the meantime information of this rising was at once sent to -the custos, Baron Yon Ketelhodt, who applied to the governor for -military aid. - -On the 11th, a meeting was held at Morant Bay, at twelve o'clock, and -proceeded with its business till about four, when it was disturbed by -the noise of a large crowd approaching, a few volunteers were drawn up -outside the Court House; the crowd advanced; the Riot Act was read by a -magistrate, when stones were thrown at the volunteers, who fired at the -mob and retired into the Court House, when the infuriated rebels -surrounded the Court House and set fire to it. The inmates were then -compelled to leave the building, and endeavoured to conceal themselves; -some fled with their families into the woods, but others were dragged -from their houses and hiding places and beaten to death; some left for -dead on the ground. Women and children fled for their lives into the -woods, and there remained for days and nights without food or shelter, -while their husbands were left murdered. The mob gained strength daily, -murdering every white man they came across. They attacked houses and -villages, and numbers of white inhabitants were killed and brutally -treated. At Farrington they halted and organized in military order, -prepared to resist the authorities, and any force that might be brought -against them. On the 21st October, the Maroons marched out to meet them, -when a sharp skirmish ensued; eventually the Maroons got the best of it, -when the rebels flew. The letter of Baron Von Ketelhodt, written on the -10th October, requesting military aid was taken by the authorities into -immediate consideration, and within twenty-four hours' of its receipt -the 2nd Battalion 6th Regiment was on the march to Morant Bay, where -troops were also landed from Spanish Town, and martial law was -proclaimed in the affected district. After the troops had arrived, they -took many of the rebels and had them tried and executed or flogged, -according to the nature and degree of the offence. George Wm. Gordon was -arrested on the 17th and placed on board H.M.S. "Wolverine," and -conveyed to Morant Bay, where he was tried by a court martial on the -20th, and on the 21st found guilty and executed on the charge of high -treason against Her Majesty Queen Victoria. Paul Bogle was apprehended -on the 23rd, and on the 24th was conveyed a prisoner to Morant Bay, -where he was tried and executed with other leaders. Had it not been for -the prompt and stringent measures resorted to by Governor Eyre in -crushing this rebellion, before it had assumed its intended magnitude, -no one can tell how much more innocent blood of Her Majesty's subjects -would have been spilled by the semi-savage rebels, urged on by the -preacher. As it was, they murdered Baron Von Ketelhodt and other -justices of the peace, altogether they killed and wounded fifty-six -white people. These details disclosed the worst features of the negro -character, but when white men urge them on they are guilty of the -greatest sin. The merciless beating to death, the mutilation of the -living and the dead, the delight in blood and murder, tell how the -spirit of the savage still lurks in the hearts of many of the black -population of Jamaica. The promptness and decision with which Governor -Eyre quelled this rebellion, deserved the approbation and consideration -of the Government. Instead of which, however, he was censured by -partisans. The social circle in England were divided, and controversy -began to rage on the question. In order to satisfy the public, and -settle the question, the Crown issued a commission of inquiry. - -On the 30th December the commission issued to Sir Henry Storks, William -R. Gurney, Q.C., and Mr. J. B. Maul, requiring them to make full inquiry -into the "origin, nature, and circumstances of the disturbances, and -respecting the means adopted in the course of the suppression of the -same, and respecting the conduct of those concerned in such disturbances -or suppression." The gentlemen selected were a sufficient guarantee to -the public that the inquiry would be what it was wished it should -be,—full, searching, and impartial. - -The Commission was opened at Kingston, Jamaica, on January 23rd, 1866, -and closed its prolonged sittings on March 25th. The Commissioners have -discharged their duties with extraordinary industry, and with the -ability and impartiality which were to be expected of them. They arrived -at the conclusion that there was on the part of the leaders of the -rioters a preconcerted plan, and that murder was "distinctly -contemplated." They nevertheless find that there was no general -conspiracy against the Government, and the inference is, that the riot, -though of considerable magnitude and danger, was not the result of any -very long standing organization, and that it was foolish, barbarous, and -wicked in its origin, although of a local character. - -Those who wish to know more about the question can find it by a search, -with moderate diligence, in the blue books, or the pigeon-holes of the -war-office. What I assert here is from my own knowledge and experience, -being present during the affair. - -Sir Henry Storks was the guest of the officers of the 6th Royal -Regiment, for several days after the inquiry was finished. After the -insurrection, the Maroons were entertained in the city hall, as a mark -of their approbation and gratitude for the manner in which they assisted -in quelling the rebellion. - -At the end of January, Colonel Hobbs took ill, and got deranged in his -mind, when he was placed in the sanitarium under surveillance. In -February he was sent to England, accompanied by his wife and family, -with two hospital orderlies, to guard and tend him. During the voyage, -watching an opportunity when walking the deck, he jumped head first down -the ash shoot. The ship hove to at once, boats were lowered to try and -rescue him, but he could not be found; he sank to rise no more till that -day when the sea shall give up its dead. The regiment was deeply -affected at this sad intelligence. He was very much respected by all -classes, and his loss to the regiment was much deplored. - -In the summer of 1866, the Marquis of Lorne (now Governor-General of -Canada) visited Jamaica, when he and his tutor were guests of the -officers of the 6th Regiment, at Newcastle. He was tall and slight, and -very intelligent, with fair hair, and about eighteen years old. During -the three years we were in Jamaica, we had one officer (Ensign Newman) -and three privates die with yellow fever. - -On the 24th March Her Majesty's Ship "Tamar" arrived at Kingston Harbour -with the 84th Regiment, to relieve the 2nd Battalion 6th Regiment. On -the 25th we marched from Newcastle to Uppark Camp, and there remained -until the 1st April, 1867, when we embarked on board the "Tamar" for -Cork. At 2 p.m., we weighed anchor and steamed out of harbour, rounding -Port Royal, homeward bound; when well clear from the land we picked up -the trade winds and ran on merrily through the Tropics towards the -Azores, at the rate of twelve knots an hour, full of the hope of -speedily seeing the coast of Ireland. - -In the afternoon the band played on the quarter-deck, and every facility -was given to the men to enjoy themselves by the gentlemanly commander, -Captain Sullivan. - -The evening of the 6th May, a bright light at Queenstown harbour was -seen, and the next morning we entered the port and cast anchor off -Queenstown, where we hoped to land. But we were too sanguine; for after -the mails were brought on board, a large official document was received, -directing the regiment to proceed to Edinburgh, there to be stationed. -After a short stay, we weighed anchor and steamed out of the harbour, -but not before we got a supply of good fresh bread and beautiful Irish -butter, which appeared to us most delicious after the hard tack and salt -pork we were so tired of during the voyage. Next morning, amidst haze -and fog, we had our first sight of the English coast, as we passed up -channel amidst a very maze of shipping, outward and homeward bound. -Onward we go, sighting the old familiar headland and land-marks, the -Eddystone light, the Start, the white cliffs of Portland and Saint -Alban's Head, until at the last the Needles were in sight. After a few -hours' steaming through the Solent, we reached Portsmouth harbour and -moored alongside the famous old "Camperdown," where we took in coal, and -afterwards steamed out of the harbour and steered our course for -Scotland. - -On the 9th of May, 1867, we cast anchor in the Firth of Forth, after a -delightful voyage of 40 days. During the passage many events took place, -which, although trivial in themselves, contributed to render the voyage -less tedious and monotonous; occasionally we spoke or sighted a vessel, -but what seemed to impart an extra interest to our every-day life, when -clear of the Tropics, was the vast number of sea birds constantly -accompanying us, probably attracted by the numerous fragments of -provisions thrown overboard, cape pigeons, those prettily marked birds -about the size of doves; the majestic albatross, stormy petrels of all -sizes, followed on in motley groups, never seeming to weary in their -search for food. These birds appear to possess remarkable capacity for -remembering the exact time when they are likely to get a feed, for day -after day, soon after noon, the vicinity of the vessel was usually -animated with their shrill shrieking and fighting with each other for -the dainty morsels thrown overboard. - -At ten o'clock, a.m., we disembarked at Leith Pier and marched to -Edinburgh Castle, "Modern Athens," amid a crowd of citizens, the band -playing "Blue Bonnets o'er the Border," and other popular Scottish airs, -during the march through the city to the castle, where we were to be -quartered; then the usual bustle of taking over barracks, bed-filling, -&c., was gone through. Edinburgh is a very small garrison, there being -only guards to furnish, viz.: The Castle, Holyrood Palace, and Jock's -Lodge. The forces consisted of the 2nd Battalion 6th Regiment and the -14th Light Dragoons. On arrival, the men had a good sum of ship's -clearance to draw, and being flush with money, made it lively for the -police about the Canongate and Dawn Market, so much so that the police -undertook to take some of them to the station-house. This the soldiers -strongly objected to, when a fight ensued; the police got the worst of -it, and the soldiers were rescued. Afterwards they never attempted to -take any of our men prisoners, instead of which they reported them at -the orderly room, when the offenders were punished by the commanding -officer. During the twelve months which the 2nd Battalion 6th Royal -Regiment was stationed in Edinburgh, the officers were delighted with -the society, which is regarded as unusually polished, from the -predominance of the professional and literary elements in its -composition. This arises partly from its being a university town, and -partly from the presence of the Supreme Law Courts of Scotland, all the -important legal business being attracted thither on that account; the -lawyers have charge of most estates throughout the country, so that -there are an unusual number of lawyers and accountants; its medical -practitioners, surgeons and physicians have a high reputation. It is -much resorted to for the sake of education, for its universities and -medical schools, its high schools and its numerous private schools. For -the poorer classes, part of the enormous funds of "Heriot's Charity" -have been diverted for cheaper schools throughout the city. It is -largely resorted to by visitors to the Highlands of Scotland, and has an -unusual number of well appointed hotels. - -There are four theatres and abundance of amusements, including an -open-air gymnasium, open to the public daily, admission sixpence. In the -southern environs are fine, open fields, where the game "Golf" has been -played from time immemorial. Excellent street-cabs are to be found, and -street cars run on all the principal streets, and to the suburbs. From -the castle, which crowns the highest point in the city, a splendid view -of Edinburgh and the surrounding country can be obtained. The old town -clustering along the heights, extends gradually along the top and sides -of the ridge which slopes downwards to the east. For some centuries the -city was confined entirely to this ridge, and was flanked on the north -by a marsh called the Nor' Loch. The Calton Hill offers to the view a -wide-spreading panorama, with the Leaning Tower away in the distance -towards Granton Pier. At our feet are the smoking chimneys of "Auld -Reekie," from which we gladly turn our eyes to the blue waters and the -shores of Fife coast, or seek out rest in the shadow of Salisbury Crags -or Arthur's Seat, the tottering arch and crumbling walls of Holyrood -Abbey. The country round is finely varied on the south, and the richly -wooded Corstorphine Hills, on the east, all within a mile or two of the -city; while farther off rise the Pentland Hills, four miles to the -southwest, and to the north the Frith of Forth. In former times -Edinburgh, with its Castle, was selected as the only place of safety for -the royal household, the Parliament, the mint, and various important -offices. By this means rising in importance, it became densely peopled, -and the houses were built to an unusual height, that the inhabitants -might keep within the walls, for the sake of protection. - -The stranger who enters what is apparently the ground floor of one of -these houses on the north side of High Street, is often surprised to -find himself, without having gone upstairs, looking from a fourth story -window in the rear. This is due to the steep slope on which the houses -stand, and gives them the command of a beautiful view, including New -Town, and extending across the Frith of Forth to the varied shores of -Fife. The town then consisted of the original High Street, reaching to -the Lawn Market and Canongate, where a heart-shaped figure, on High -Street pavement, marks the spot where the Heart of Mid-Lothian once -stood; and on the south a narrow way, called the Cowgate, connected with -each other by several narrow closes and wynds, between dense clusters of -houses. Most of these houses consist of a succession of flats, each -being a separate dwelling, and of such flats there are seldom fewer than -six, and sometimes ten or twelve, towering to an immense height, and -rendered still more imposing from the manner and position in which they -are built. - -A striking object in the vicinity is the Canongate Tolbooth, with -turrets and clock projecting from the front, on iron brackets, which -have taken the place of the original carved oaken beams. Executions -sometimes took place in front of this building; but a more frequent -place of execution was the Girth Cross, near the foot of the Canongate. -The citizens remained content with these confined limits until the North -Bridge was erected, connecting the Old Town with the fields in the -north, on which the New Town was beginning to be built. Shortly -afterwards the line of this bridge was extended southwards, and thus a -level was opened to the southern suburbs, which have since rivalled the -New Town in rapid growth. The Nor' Loch was drained, and partially -bridged over by the mound formed from the earth dug from the foundations -of the New Town, and its situation is occupied by fine public and -private gardens, which now lie in the centre of the city, and separate -the New Town from the Old, where a military band plays every Thursday -afternoon, to the delight of the citizens who promenade these gardens. -The New Town being built with much regularity, in straight streets, and -in squares and crescents with numerous gardens, contrasts with the -crowded though picturesque masses of the Old Town. In recent years, -however, great changes have been made, and several new streets have been -opened through the most crowded and ruinous localities. Among the most -interesting features of the city is the Castle, in which are shown the -ancient regalia of Scotland, and Queen Mary's room, where King James was -let down from the window in a basket, and Queen Margaret's little -chapel, which stands on the ramparts, close to which is "Mons-Meg," said -to be the oldest cannon in Great Britain. It is constructed of thick -staves of wrought iron, with bands of the same material. Hundreds of -visitors enter the Castle daily to see Queen Mary's room, the ancient -regalia, and other objects of great antiquity. Holyrood Palace, which, -with the exception of one wing containing Queen Mary's apartments, in -which her bed-room is furnished just as it was when she occupied it, and -the blood-stained boards in the hall, where Rizzio was murdered, is -plainly yet to be seen. The Bank of Scotland, recently rebuilt; the Scot -Monument in Princess Street gardens, Heriot and Donaldson's Hospital, -the Post Office, the National Gallery, the University and Museum of -Science and Art, and hotels of Princess Street and George's Street. - -But the New Town has two grand features about which all are agreed. We -need hardly say that these are Princess Street and the Calton Hill. -Princess Street extends along the gardens, from Calton Hill to the West -end, and is the principal and most beautiful street in the city. Near -Calton Hill stands Burns' Monument, which is a circular building, with -columns and cupola; it has all the outward appearance of a tomb, so that -one is rather startled to find it tenanted by a "canny Scot,"—a live -one,—who presides, with becoming sepulchral gravity, over a two-penny -show of miscellaneous trumpery connected with Robert Burns. - -[Illustration: HOLYROOD PALACE AND BURN'S MONUMENT, EDINBURGH.] - -In October I went to Dunoon, on a visit to an old friend of mine, who -was discharged soon after our arrival from Jamaica. I went by the -Caledonian Railway to Glasgow, thence to Greenock, and by boat to -Dunoon, where I enjoyed myself in one of the most frequented sea-bathing -places and summer resorts in the West of Scotland. It is situated in the -south-west of Argyleshire, on the west side of the Firth of Clyde, nine -miles west of Greenock. A village existed here from a very early date, -but a new, well-built town, with fine villas around, has of late years -sprung up. Dunoon Castle, of which only a small portion now remains, -stood on a conical hill near the pier, and was once a Royal Palace and -strong fortress. The Argyle family once lived here, but the building -became a ruin over a century ago. After a week's pleasure, fishing, -bathing, and boating, I bid my friend farewell; after thanking him much -for his attention and kindness to me during my visit, I left for -Edinburgh Castle, where I arrived at 6 p.m. - -The 2nd Battalion 6th Royal Regiment was stationed in Edinburgh Castle -over twelve months, when they got the route for Aldershot camp on the -30th May, 1868. Previous to the regiment leaving, I got my discharge on -the 26th May, 1868, after twenty-one years' service of Her Majesty. I -parted with the 6th Regiment and my coat with the deepest sorrow, and -lost my regimental home and friends. I afterwards went to Dalkeith, a -pensioner and civilian, and was employed as mess-man to the Duke of -Buccleuch's regiment of militia, the "Duke's Canaries," during their -training. This town is about seven miles from Edinburgh, stands near the -junction of the North and South Esk, and is a station of the North -British Railway. It chiefly consists of one main street. It is one of -the largest grain markets in Scotland, with a large and commodious -market hall. Dalkeith Palace, the chief seat of the Duke of Buccleuch, -is a large, square structure overhanging the North Esk, amid fine -grounds, in which the Esks flow, and unite. The Duke's chapel stands -within the palace grounds. While in Dalkeith I received two encouraging -letters from Canada, one from my sister and the other from my nephew, -advising me to come to Canada. - -After the training was over, I sold out my furniture by auction, and -proceeded by the North British Railway to Glasgow, where I took an -intermediate passage for Canada for my wife, daughter and myself, on -board the steamship "St. Andrew," Captain Scott, one of the Allan line, -which was to sail on Tuesday, 14th July, 1868, for Quebec. This left us -five days to wait in Glasgow, during which time I took the opportunity -of visiting many interesting places in this industrial metropolis of -Scotland, and one of its largest and most important cities. It is -situated on the Clyde, in Lanarkshire. This river divides the north from -the south side of the city, and is crossed by five bridges, much admired -for their light and graceful architecture, and suspension bridges -besides. Below the bridges ferry-boats ply at all hours. The city has -somewhat a smoky aspect, while many of the streets are continually -thronged with passengers, and noisy carts, cabs, and omnibuses. In other -respects it has many attractions. - -The houses facing the river stand well back, leaving spacious -thoroughfares on each side, and affording full and noble views of the -bridges, and of the harbour with its steam funnels and forests of masts; -most of the leading streets run from east to west parallel with the -river, and almost all the streets are laid off in straight lines. The -houses are generally lofty, and built of freestone; the floors of each -tenement, being occupied by separate families, are entered by a common -stair. - -Many of the public buildings deserve notice. The Cathedral, is one of -the finest churches in Scotland. The Royal Exchange on Queen street, -several of the banks, and many of the churches, likewise present fine -specimens of architecture in a variety of styles. - -The several equestrian statues, include those of William III., of the -Cross, the Duke of Wellington, in front of the Royal Exchange, and Queen -Victoria, in George's Square. In the Green there is an obelisk 144 feet -high, to Nelson, forming a conspicuous object in the landscape. In -George's Square there is a statue of Sir Walter Scott, a fine statue of -Sir John Moore, a statue of James Watt, and a statue of Sir Robert Peel. -Charitable institutions and benevolent societies abound. There are -several theatres and museums, and numerous halls in which soirees and -concerts are held nightly during the winter. - -The wealthier inhabitants migrate to the coast in shoals during the -summer, and cheap Saturday excursions by river and rail, are extensively -taken advantage of by the working classes. To the north-west of the city -is a botanic garden, which is thrown open every summer during the fair -holidays, at a mere nominal charge. With the additional attractions of -the conservatory, large numbers visit these gardens. There are several -cemeteries in the vicinity of which Sighthill is the most picturesque. - -There are besides, four public parks, one in each quarter of the city, -namely, the Green, occupying the level next the Clyde at the east end; -Queen's Park, finely situated on a rising ground in the south; Kelvin -Grove, rounding the face of the hill, crowned with noble terraces, and -sloping down to the Kelvin, at the west end of the city. Our time here -was short; the ship sails at six o'clock this evening. - -After paying the landlord at the George Hotel, we drove to the -Broomielaw, where the ship lay alongside the wharf, when we went on -board, and at 6.15 p.m. we sailed with the tide. As we steamed out -slowly among the shipping in the harbour, the town of machinery and tall -chimneys, out of which interminable serpents of smoke trailed themselves -for ever and ever and never got uncoiled, the Clyde, as the tide -receded, looked like a river that ran purple with ill-smelling dye, and -vast piles of buildings full of windows where there was a rattling and -trembling all day long, and where the piston of the steam engine worked -monotonously up and down in a state of madness. It was a lovely evening -in July. The sun was throwing a hazy light across the landscape on -either side of the Clyde as we proceeded; where rich golden harvest -fields waved, and the perfume of a thousand flowers was wafted by the -zephyrs, which sighed among the young leaves, and a thousand songsters -sent forth their melody in joyous chorus. As we passed Greenock we could -not help admiring the large rectangular buildings, containing an endless -number of windows garnished with machinery, pipes puffing steam, and -long chimneys vomiting smoke. As we steamed down, so narrow and crooked -was the river in places that we ran aground at 7.15 p.m., when we had a -delay until two tug steamers came and pulled us off, when we continued -our course and cast anchor off the tail of the bank at 8.15 p.m. Here we -were delayed until 2 p.m. next day, when we weighed anchor and steamed -down the Firth of Clyde, with one hundred and seventy passengers on -board, westerly, and a head wind, making eight knots an hour. The night -was lovely, the clear, bright moon threw a silvery light athwart the -face of the deep glistening waters, as our ship dashed onwards, reaching -Kingstown at 10 a.m. next day, where we cast anchor and witnessed a -regatta. The harbour was so crowded with yachts that we had to anchor at -its mouth. - -At 11 a.m. we weighed anchor again and were piloted outside of Howth. A -head wind; passed the Isle of Man and Calf-lights at 4 p.m., cast the -log at 5 p.m., ship making nine knots; arrived at Moville in Lough Foyle -at 5 a.m. on 17th, where we took more passengers on board, and steamed -out at 11.30 a.m., passed Instrahull lighthouse at 2 p.m., head wind, -heavy Atlantic swells, most of the passengers got sea sick, passed Tony -Island at 5.45 p.m., three absent from supper with sea sickness; 18th, -Saturday, rough sea, head wind, most of the passengers sea sick; 19th, -Sunday, Divine service at 10 a.m., weather fine, head wind, distance -made 157 miles in 24 hours; 20th, Monday, passengers getting over sea -sickness, although the ship rolls and pitches a good deal, distance made -162 miles; 21st, Tuesday, Lat. 54° 24', Long. 28° 00', distance 203 -miles, fine weather, stiff breeze; 22nd, Wednesday, Lat. 53° 18', Long. -32° 48', distance made 184 miles. At 4 p.m. the wind changed, when all -the canvas that could be put on was hoisted, and we ran at 11½ knots -during the night; 23rd, Thursday, head wind, and a cold, damp, thick, -heavy fog covered the broad Atlantic, distance 232 miles, Lat. 50° 16', -Long. 42° 50', 5 p.m., wind changed, ship making 10 knots, stiff breeze -from the North; 25th, Saturday, fair wind, making 10½ knots, 10.30 -a.m., ten large icebergs in view, at 2 p.m. we saw two large whales -close to the ship; 26th, Sunday, Lat. 46° 25', Long. 53° 42', distance -231 miles, soundings 50 fathoms, wind favourable, cold, wet, and -miserable weather, at midnight sighted St. Peter's light; 27th, Monday, -Lat. 47° 18', Long. 58° 18', distance made 206 miles, at 10 a.m. sighted -Cape Ray. Newfoundland coast looked very bare with small trees and -underwood. Passed Port Basque at 4.30 p.m. This small village is the -telegraph station of the Atlantic cable from Ireland, _via_ Heart's -Content, Newfoundland, from thence to Cape Breton on to Nova Scotia and -Canada. The island looked cold and barren, with heaps of snow on several -of the hills, entered the Gulf of St. Lawrence at 6.30 p.m., steering -North, light head wind, our ship runs onward very smoothly, making 8½ -knots, all hands over sea sickness and in good spirits, with good -appetites, passed the bark _Arctic_ at 6.45 p.m., homeward bound. - -The water seems like a mirror, and the night fine, crossing the Gulf of -St. Lawrence; 28th, Tuesday, morning beautiful, came in sight of the -Island of Anticosti at 6 a.m., and at 11 a.m. sighted the coast of -Gaspé, passed Cape Rozier at 4 p.m., night fine, not a ripple on the -face of the deep; 29th, Wednesday, steamed along the coast of Lower -Canada, but a thick fog came on which caused much delay, at 10.30 a.m, -we reached "Father Point," where we fired a gun for a pilot to come on -board, when we were answered in the thick fog by one from the pilot, -whose boat we had passed some distance, the fog being so thick we did -not see him. However, after he answered we lay too and took him on board -at 11.20 a.m., then steamed forward at 10 knots, coasting along the bank -of the river, where we had a view now and then, as the fog cleared, of -small villages along the coast. The houses were all white and built of -wood; the land for the most part appeared covered with thick forests, -but near the villages were some spots cleared and under cultivation, -which were green with either grass or crops, but owing to the fog we -could not well make out the coast, however, now and then the fog cleared -away for a short time as it were to let us have a bird's-eye view of the -country on either side of us. The pilot brought on board some newspapers -which we amused ourselves reading while the fog lasted. Passed Cacouna -at 5.30 p.m., it is a watering place on the banks of the St. Lawrence, -about 80 miles from Quebec; it appears a pretty place with one church -which we could see plainly. Passed the Brandy Pots at 5.45 p.m., and -River Du Loup at the opposite side, at the same time. This village is a -French settlement, and is the terminus of the Grand Trunk Railway, -distance made 250 miles. - -At eleven a.m. we weighed anchor again and proceeded on our way, and -after a pleasant voyage of 15 days, arrived at Quebec, on the 30th of -July. - -On comparing chronometers, we found a difference in the time between -Quebec and Greenwich of 5h. 44m. 49s. - -From here we took the express train to Montreal, and put up at the -Albion Hotel. The scenery along the line of the railway seemed to me so -strange; the country was covered with wood; wherever I looked there was -wood—everything seemed wooden. - -At 8 o'clock next morning we took the train for that ancient -limestone-fortified City of Kingston—the city of the Thousand -Isles—where we arrived at 2 p.m., and drove in a cab to the -Anglo-American Hotel where we stayed till next day, at 3 p.m., when we -took the steamer "Bay of Quinté" for Picton. The scenery along the -beautiful Bay of Quinté, from Kingston to Picton, was delightful. I -stayed on deck during the evening, enchanted with the wild landscape and -picturesque scenery, arriving at Picton at 8 p.m., when we rode in Mrs. -Blanchard's 'bus up to my sister's. - -I visited my friends for a month when I went steward of Ontario College, -where I stayed for twelve months, when I bought a property on Main -Street; here I went into the grocery business, during which time I -messed the 16th Battalion County Prince Edward Volunteers, and the -summer following I messed the officers at Picton and again at Kingston -in 1871. - -The same year I applied to the Council at Picton for a license—which -was granted—for my house, which I named the "Victoria Hotel," where I -carried on business as a hotel-keeper until the year 1878, when I sold -the hotel through the effects of the Dunkin Act, after laying out a -large sum of money in enlarging and building an addition to the house, -also stables and sheds. For two or three years previous to voting on the -Dunkin Bill, a few fanatics—in order to get their names before the -public as great temperance advocates, not knowing of anything better to -preach about, like the Turkish Dervishes, tried to make people believe -that they were all saints and everybody else sinners; although the -temperance saints generally had a bottle in the garret or the cellar -which they used when not observed. - -They held meetings all over the county, and any person who did not join -them had no chance of being elected to any public office. Men who were -ambitious were obliged to attend their meetings in order to gain -popularity, and dare not go into an hotel. An honest, straightforward, -truthful man, unless he agreed with them, had a poor chance of being -elected to any office. At any rate, the Dunkin side got strong enough to -carry the election. Most of those who were against it would not vote -through fear of their neighbours, they said it made little difference to -them whether there was license or not. Through this sort of intimidation -the vote was carried by the Dunkinites and became law in the county. At -the end of twelve months another vote was taken to repeal it, when the -Dunkinites again carried the election, owing to several local orators -who stood up where the Dunkinites held meetings throughout the country -and preached against its repeal. These men, of course, gained popularity -with the temperance party for the time being. But like the house that -was built on the sand, "the rain came and the wind blew and beat on that -house and great was the fall thereof, because it was built on the sand." -And now those who voted for the Dunkin Bill want to repeal it, seeing -that it not only increases the number of places that sell liquor -privately in the town, but that it deprives the county of a very large -revenue. Notwithstanding that the Dunkin Act was superseded by the -Crooks' Act, and, knowing that it was _ultra vires_, they tried to -enforce it. Several cases of selling liquor contrary to the Dunkin Act -were brought before the magistrates and fines inflicted; at last, seeing -that it was not constitutional, they gave up trying any more. But when a -man is to be hanged there is always a hangman to be found; so it was -with the Dunkin Act, there was one found to try the cases, when almost -invariably fines or imprisonment were inflicted; of the latter several -hotel-keepers had a foretaste. - -Knowing that these convictions were bad, they were appealed to a higher -tribunal. There was one thing that we have got cause to be thankful to -the government for, and that is for selecting and appointing just, -learned and impartial judges, who know neither friend nor partisan when -they sit on the tribunal to mete out justice and judgment, according to -the law of the land. When these appeal cases came before the learned and -just Judge of the County of Prince Edward, they were all quashed. - - -LINES ON PICTON, BAY OF QUINTE. - - Fair Picton! what a blissful spot, - Where peace and happiness had been my lot, - But the Dunkin fanatics disturbed my home, - And sent me from you, far to roam. - - Where golden corn waves in the breeze, - And sugar flows from maple trees, - And here in winter, on the plains of snow, - Gay dressed parties out a-sleighing go. - - With noble churches of much renown, - Thy shady cemetery outside the town, - Where friends do go, when from labour free, - To dress the grave beneath the shady tree. - - Where marble monuments lift up from grass, - Which mark the spot to strangers as they pass. - Where noble souls and friends so dear, - Having left this life, are sleeping quietly here. - - T. FAUGHNAN. - - -After I sold out I thought I would not go into hotel business again, but -I found it so dull, I leased the Anglo-American Hotel in Kingston, -which, however I again relinquished in February last, and am now living -in Kingston. - -At about 4 p.m. on the 29th May, 1879, His Excellency the Right -Honourable the Marquis of Lorne and his Royal Consort, Princess Louise, -arrived at Kingston, for the purpose of laying the corner-stone of the -Queen's College, having been invited for that purpose by Dr. Grant, the -Principal of the Queen's University. - -On arrival, the Royal guests were received by the corporation and other -city dignitaries, professors, and officers of the Royal Military -College. A Royal salute was fired from Fort Henry. After the singing of -"God save the Queen," by over one thousand little school children, the -Mayor read the address of welcome to the Royal guests, which was -graciously responded to by His Excellency in a loud, clear, and distinct -voice. After the address another song was sung by the children, led by -Mr. Rackett, Bandmaster Dominion Artillery, on the cornet; after which a -procession was formed, and the Vice-regal party entered their carriage, -which was drawn by four horses, with postillions. They moved off amid -loud cheering from the people, escorted by a troop of cavalry commanded -by Colonel Duff, with the corporation and members of the different -societies in carriages. Crowds of people lined the streets, who cheered -most heartily, as the Royal visitors proceeded along the route. The -streets were beautifully decorated with splendid arches, appropriate -mottoes, and evergreens. The Princess looked very much pleased, and -bowed most graciously to the delighted crowd. The line of procession was -kept by the 14th P. W. O. Rifles, commanded by Major E. H. Smythe. As -His Excellency and the Princess alighted from their carriage at Mr. Geo. -A. Kirkpatrick's house, where they were guests, the people again cheered -and shouted, when the Princess and Marquis most graciously acknowledged -the salutations. Major and Mrs. De Winton were staying at Mr. Stafford -Kirkpatrick's. The Royal reception passed off to the entire satisfaction -of all concerned, there being nothing to mar the proceedings. - -In the evening His Excellency and the Princess held a drawing room in -the City Hall, which was beautifully illuminated and fitted up with -swords and bayonets forming most exquisite designs and mottoes -tastefully arranged by the gunners of "A" Battery Dominion Artillery. - -The Cadets from the Royal Military College, commanded by Major Ridout, -and headed by "A" Battery band, formed the guard of honour. About 9.30 -His Excellency and Her Royal Highness Princess Louise arrived and were -greeted by a royal salute. Next day at 11.30 a.m., His Excellency and -H.R.H. Princess Louise laid the corner stones on each side of the front -entrance of the Queen's College, and planted two trees, one of maple and -the other of birch, in front of the entrance to the college, after which -the degree of LL.D. was conferred on His Excellency by the Chancellor, -who delivered to him the diploma, which was a beautiful work of art -being engrossed on parchment, in Indian ink and gold, with Royal Arms, -and the crest of the noble House of Argyle within a chaste and elaborate -border of the scenery, views, and buildings of the city. - -At 3 p.m. His Excellency, the Princess and suite, accompanied by Mr. -George A. Kirkpatrick, visited the Penitentiary. On arrival there, His -Excellency and Her Royal Highness were received by Mr. Creighton, the -Warden, who conducted the distinguished party through the institution, -which was tastefully decorated with a handsome arch, on the top of which -was a large and tastefully made crown of evergreens, with the Royal Arms -beneath, and a large Union Jack floating from the tower. In the evening -His Excellency and Her Royal Highness attended a concert at the Opera -House. Mr. George A. Kirkpatrick, M.P., and Mrs. James, were honoured -with seats in the Vice-Regal boxes. - -On Saturday, His Excellency and Her Royal Highness visited the different -schools and hospitals. In the afternoon they visited the Royal Military -College, where the troops, consisting of the Cadets, "A" Battery, -Dominion Artillery, and the 14th Prince of Wales Own Rifles, commanded -by Colonel Kerr, were formed in line, facing the city, and commanded by -Colonel Hewett, R. E., the commandant. At 3 p.m., His Excellency, the -Princess and suite, accompanied by Sir E. S. Smyth and staff, arrived on -the ground, escorted by a troop of cavalry. They were received with a -Royal salute, after which His Excellency, attended by General E. Smyth, -Colonel Van Straubenzie, Colonel Hewett, Colonel Irwin, Colonel Wolsley -and others of the staff, inspected the troops. The Brigade then marched -past, and afterwards were put through a sham fight, changing front to -the left, Captain W. C. Sand's company of the Rifles covering the -advance in skirmishing order, which Her Royal Highness seemed to enjoy -very much. The review being over, His Excellency, the Princess and -suite, accompanied by Colonel Hewett and other officers, made a tour of -inspection through the College and afterwards Her Royal Highness the -Princess Louise distributed prizes to the Cadets. - -On Sunday, the Vice-Regal party attended Divine Service at St. George's -Cathedral. The Service was read by the Very Rev. the Dean of Ontario, -and the Lessons by the Rev. H. Wilson. A most eloquent and impressive -sermon was preached by the Very Rev. the Dean of Ontario, who took his -text from St. John, chap. 12, verse, 32. His Excellency, accompanied by -Mr. George A. Kirkpatrick, M.P., and Captain Harbord, A.D.C., attending -evening service at St. Andrew's Church. The sermon was preached by the -Rev. G. M. Grant, D.D. - -On Monday, His Excellency, the Princess and suite, took a trip down the -river, accompanied by Sir Richard Cartwright, Principal, and Mrs. Grant, -Colonel and Mrs. Hewett, Mr. and Mrs. Gun, Colonel Irwin, Colonel -Cotton, Colonel and Mrs. Van Straubenzie, the Misses Montalbert, Mrs. -James, Mr. G. A. Kirkpatrick, M.P., Major Gildersleeve and others. On -arrival at Gananoque, the Field Battery, under the command of Major -Mackenzie, fired a Royal salute. Before the boat left, the Rev. Mr. -George Taylor, Major Mackenzie, Mr D. Ford Jones, M.P., went on board -and were introduced to His Excellency. The return trip was made by the -American Channel, reaching the city about 6 p.m., when they drove to the -residence of Mr. George A. Kirkpatrick, M.P. - -The following morning, about 5 o'clock, the Vice-Regal party left -Kingston by the steamer "Spartan," _en route_ for Quebec. On their -departure a Royal salute was fired from Fort Henry. "A" Battery, -Dominion Artillery, under the command of Lieutenant-Colonel Cotton, -furnished a guard of honour. As the steamer moved from the wharf, the -crowd cheered and shouted, to which His Excellency and H.R.H. the -Princess Louise most graciously bowed their acknowledgments, and seemed -delighted with their reception at Kingston. - -_Long live His Excellency the Governor-General, and H. R. Highness the -Princess Louise!_ - - -LINES ON THE OCCASION OF THE MARQUIS OF LORNE AND THE PRINCESS LOUISE -VISITING KINGSTON. - - Of a Royal Princess we now can boast, - And drink a health and loyal toast - To QUEEN VICTORIA, whom God may spare, - Who honoured Canada with her daughter fair. - - From deceitful enemies or their foes, - May God the Royal couple keep in sweet repose; - And let nations see that this fair land, - Can uphold Royalty with heart and hand. - - Kingston, fair city of the thousand isles, - Where the noble St. Lawrence so gently smiles; - With its Royal Military College of much renown, - And the grand old buildings of this ancient town. - - Though this city much of limestone smells, - There are British hearts that ever swell, - To respond to Royalty and one so fair, - And to the Princess Louise who visited there. - - Was e'er such honour paid to Kingston before, - As a Princess and Marquis inside their door? - The honour paid her, was much deserved, - For she stood true and loyal when others swerved. - - With the noble Marquis and the fair Louise, - The loyal Kingstonians were much pleased; - At their reception Mayor Gildersleeve did preside, - With the city aldermen on either side. - - To give a loyal welcome to those we love so dear, - And show our loyalty in old Kingston here, - For that we Kingstonians all are sworn, - To stand together,—aye, for Lorne! - - T. FAUGHNAN. - - -So now here at the old limestone City of Kingston, I must give my gentle -reader the parting hand of fellowship. We have had a long, and I hope -interesting journey, from my enlistment to my discharge. I trust not an -unprofitable one. We have travelled over the ground of battle-scenes, of -blood, carnage and slaughter; stood on the hoary ruins of palaces and -temples; we have seen Egypt, and that great and terrible desert. - -Our time together has passed pleasantly; we part, I trust, mutual -friends, and so ends the story of an old soldier, who only asks your -pardon for the many defects and weakness in his simple narrative, and -who also hopes it may amuse the young and old, and show them that a -steady, sober and well-conducted man will ever get on well and be happy -in the service of Her Most Gracious Majesty: whom that God may long -preserve, is the prayer of her humble and dutiful pensioner. - - - THOMAS FAUGHNAN. - KINGSTON ONT., July 1, 1879. - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Stirring Incidents In The Life of a -British Soldier, by Thomas Faughnan - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK STIRRING INCIDENTS--BRITISH SOLDIER *** - -***** This file should be named 51595-0.txt or 51595-0.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/5/1/5/9/51595/ - -Produced by Brian Coe, Chris Pinfield, and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive/Canadian Libraries) - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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text-align: center; } - .smcap { font-variant: small-caps; } - .large { font-size: large; } - .small { font-size: small; } - .x-small { font-size: x-small; } - .gap-between { letter-spacing: .3em; } - .gap-above { margin-top: 1.5em; } - .uppercase { text-transform: uppercase; } - -@media handheld { - img.drop-cap { - display: none; - } - p.drop-cap:first-letter { - color: inherit; - visibility: visible; - margin-left: 0; - } - } - - </style> - </head> -<body> - - -<pre> - -The Project Gutenberg EBook of Stirring Incidents In The Life of a British -Soldier, by Thomas Faughnan - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - -Title: Stirring Incidents In The Life of a British Soldier - -Author: Thomas Faughnan - -Release Date: March 29, 2016 [EBook #51595] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK STIRRING INCIDENTS--BRITISH SOLDIER *** - - - - -Produced by Brian Coe, Chris Pinfield, and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive/Canadian Libraries) - - - - - - -</pre> - - -<div class="image-center"> - <img src="images/front-cover.jpg" width="400" height="609" alt="front-cover"/> -</div> - -<div class="image-center"> - <img src="images/frontis.jpg" width="400" height="591" alt="frontis"/> - <div class="caption"> - <p class="small cursive">Yours faithfully,</p> - <p class="cursive">Thomas Faughnan.</p> - </div> -</div> - -<div id="front"> - -<h1><span class="small">STIRRING INCIDENTS</span><br /> -<span class="x-small">IN THE LIFE OF</span><br /> -A BRITISH SOLDIER.</h1> - -<p><b>An Autobiography.</b></p> - -<p class="x-small">BY</p> - -<p>THOMAS FAUGHNAN,<br /> -<span class="x-small"><i>Late Colour-Sergeant, 2nd Battalion, 6th Royal Regiment</i>.</span></p> - -<p class="small"><b>"Faithful unto Death."</b></p> - -<p>THIRD EDITION.</p> - - - <p style="margin-bottom:5em">TORONTO:<br /> - <span class="gap-between">HUNTER, ROSE AND COMPANY.</span><br /> - 1881.</p> - -<p class="enter">Entered according to the Act of the Parliament of Canada, in the year one -thousand eight hundred and seventy-nine, by <span class="smcap">Thomas Faughnan</span>, in -the office of the Minister of Agriculture.</p> - - <p style="margin-top:5em"><span class="x-small">PRINTED AND BOUND BY</span><br /> - <span class="gap-between small">HUNTER, ROSE & CO.,</span><br /> - <span class="x-small">TORONTO.</span></p> - -<p style="margin-top:5em">TO HIS EXCELLENCY<br /> -<span class="small"><b>The Right Honourable the Marquis of Lorne,</b></span><br /> -<span class="x-small">K.T., G.C.M.G.,</span><br /> -<span class="small">GOVERNOR-GENERAL OF THE DOMINION OF CANADA,</span></p> - -<p><span class="x-small">THIS STORY</span><br /> -<span class="small"><b>Of a British Soldier's Life</b></span></p> - -<p><span class="small">IS, BY SPECIAL PERMISSION, RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED,<br /> -BY HIS HUMBLE AND OBEDIENT SERVANT,</span><br /> -THOMAS FAUGHNAN.</p> - -</div> - -<h2>PREFACE.</h2> - -<div> - <img class="drop-cap" src="images/drop-i.jpg" width="38" height="80" alt="i"/> -</div> - -<p class="drop-cap"><span class="uppercase">In</span> -laying the history of my life and travels before the -public, I deem it right to state that I am past the -middle age; this I feel compelled to mention, because it is -my opinion that no man should write a history of himself -until he has set foot upon the border land where the past -and the future begin to blend. When the past has receded -so far that he can behold it as in a picture, and his -share in it as the history of a soldier who has fought for his -Queen and country, and had many narrow escapes of -death. But, thank God, I have been spared thus far to -confess my faults, and my good deeds look miserably poor -in my own eyes; indeed, I would no more claim a reward -for them than expect a captain's commission.</p> - -<p>The countries and incidents described in this work -will be found I trust, interesting to all classes of persons. -The history of a soldier's life and travels is always -an entertaining and instructive one. Many books on -the lives of officers have been written by learned men -containing much information, and highly useful to the -scholar, but they do not interest the mass of common -readers. Others, again, pass so rapidly from place to -place, and are so general in their description, the reader -gets but very imperfect ideas from reading them. These -extremes the writer has endeavoured to avoid. It has -been my object to select the most important events -of my life, and to describe them in a plain and familiar -style. I have not indulged in learned dissertations, -my common, old-fashioned Irish school education being -too limited to give that classical finish to the work -which a learned writer would have done. Indeed, it -has not been my intention to write a book for the -learned or critical, but to give to the public a volume -written in a homely style, by a non-commissioned officer, -to instruct and interest the family and the common reader, -as well as my comrades. If, while dilating on the exploits -of my comrades in arms, I have omitted to pay proper respect -to gallant foes, it is because I know that history will -supply the deficiency. Time will gild with glory a Trojan -defence, fitly closed by a successful retreat across a -burning bridge, under a heavy fire. But come along, dear -reader, and try whether in my first chapter I cannot be -a boy again, in such a way that my reader will gladly -linger a little in the meadows of childhood, ere we pass -to riper years and stirring battle-fields.</p> - -<h2>CONTENTS.</h2> - -<table id="toc" summary="ToC"> - -<tr><td></td><td class="page">PAGE</td></tr> - -<tr><td colspan="2" class="chap">CHAPTER I.</td></tr> - -<tr> - <td class="text">Education—My Schoolmaster—School House—My Father, Mother, - Sisters—Our House</td> - <td class="pagno"><a href="#Page_17">17</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr><td colspan="2" class="chap">CHAPTER II.</td></tr> - -<tr> - <td class="text">River Shannon—Derry Carne—Our - Farm—My Sisters Get Married—Cave—Still - House—Still and Worm—Process—Interior—Revenue - Police—Irish Wake—Funeral</td> - <td class="pagno"><a href="#Page_24">24</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr><td colspan="2" class="chap">CHAPTER III.</td></tr> - -<tr> - <td class="text">Advanced School—State of the Country—Emigration—Cause - of Poverty—Irish - Landlords—Potato Crop—Dishonest Agents—Election—Politics—My - Sister Emigrates—I Enlist</td> - <td class="pagno"><a href="#Page_29">29</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr><td colspan="2" class="chap">CHAPTER IV.</td></tr> - -<tr> - <td class="text">Swearing In—March to Dublin—Beggars' Bush - Barrack—Rations—The - City—Embarkation—The Ship—The Voyage—Liverpool—Train - to London—Billets—Canterbury—Join the 17th Regiment</td> - <td class="pagno"><a href="#Page_34">34</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr><td colspan="2" class="chap">CHAPTER V.</td></tr> - -<tr> - <td class="text">Medical Examination—Receive My Kit—Drill, Manual and Platoon - Exercise—Dismissed Drill—Visit the City—Description—Route—The - March</td> - <td class="pagno"><a href="#Page_43">43</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr><td colspan="2" class="chap">CHAPTER VI.</td></tr> - -<tr> - <td class="text">Arrival at Dover—First Guard—The Dead - House—Ghost—The Heights—Shaft—Fortifications—Marching - Out—Chartist Riots—Train to - London—Departure—Osborne House—Main Dock—Route to - Chatham—Siege—Sham Fight</td> - <td class="pagno"><a href="#Page_50">50</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr><td colspan="2" class="chap">CHAPTER VII.</td></tr> - -<tr> - <td class="text">Route to Canterbury—The - March—Arrival—Chatham—Dock-yard—Furlough - to London—That Great City—Join my Company—Sheerness—The - Dock-yard—Get Married—Route to Weedon—Route to - Ireland</td> - <td class="pagno"><a href="#Page_59">59</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr><td colspan="2" class="chap">CHAPTER VIII.</td></tr> - -<tr> - <td class="text">Liverpool—Embark for Dublin—The Voyage—Arrival—March—The - Train—The March to Castlebar—Arrival—Election—Route to - Galway</td> - <td class="pagno"><a href="#Page_70">70</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr><td colspan="2" class="chap">CHAPTER IX.</td></tr> - -<tr> - <td class="text">The March—Galway—Captain Bourchier—Detachment—Regatta—Row - with the Police—Route to Galway—Major Bourchier exchanges—Captain - Croker—Claddagh—Attend a Camp Meeting—The - City of Galway—Theatre—Route to Dublin</td> - <td class="pagno"><a href="#Page_82">82</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr><td colspan="2" class="chap">CHAPTER X.</td></tr> - -<tr> - <td class="text">The March—Rail to Dublin—Arrival—Garrison - Duty—Castle Guard—The - Old Man's Hospital—Divine Service—Tent-Pitching—Death - of the "Iron Duke"—The Funeral—The Queen Visits Dublin—Buildings - and Institutions—The Route</td> - <td class="pagno"><a href="#Page_93">93</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr><td colspan="2" class="chap">CHAPTER XI.</td></tr> - -<tr> - <td class="text">Arrival at Templemore—The Route to Cork—Embarkation for Gibraltar—Queenstown—The - Voyage—Storm at Sea—Gibraltar</td> - <td class="pagno"><a href="#Page_106">106</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr><td colspan="2" class="chap">CHAPTER XII.</td></tr> - -<tr> - <td class="text">The Landing—Barrack—Garrison Duty—Old North Front—Smuggling—Market—Queen's - Birth-Day—The Dinner—Speeches—The - Route—The March—Embarkation for the Crimea—The Parting—The - Voyage—Arrival at Malta</td> - <td class="pagno"><a href="#Page_121">121</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr><td colspan="2" class="chap">CHAPTER XIII.</td></tr> - -<tr> - <td class="text">Maltese—Departure—A Captain Commits Suicide—The Funeral—Small-Pox—Return—Resumed - the Voyage—Grecian Arches—Dardanelles—Gallipoli—Turkish - Sentries—Constantinople—Turkish - Ladies—The Bosphorus—Voyage across the Euxine—Arrival</td> - <td class="pagno"><a href="#Page_134">134</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr><td colspan="2" class="chap">CHAPTER XIV.</td></tr> - -<tr> - <td class="text">Disembarkation—First Bivouac—The March—Arrival—Sebastopol—The - Trenches—First Man Wounded—Return to Camp—An Alarm—Lord - Raglan—Sortie—Foraging—The Old Bridge—Col. Cole—The - Siege</td> - <td class="pagno"><a href="#Page_149">149</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr><td colspan="2" class="chap">CHAPTER XV.</td></tr> - -<tr> - <td class="text">March to Balaklava—Return—Men go Bare-footed—Snow five feet - deep—Long Boats—Hard Frost—Cavalry Division—Burial Ground—Solitary - Procession—Men Frozen—I build a Hut—Green Coffee—Wintry - Appearance—Dead Horses—63rd Regiment—Carrying - Provisions—French Sick</td> - <td class="pagno"><a href="#Page_161">161</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr><td colspan="2" class="chap">CHAPTER XVI.</td></tr> - -<tr> - <td class="text">Trenches—Canal of Mud—Russian New Year—Heavy Fire—On Sentry—The - Sortie—Old Brown Bess—Sortie—Arrival in Camp—New - Style of Candle—Flint and Steel—Making Coffee—Heavy Snow—No - Fire—Warm Clothing—Shot and Shell</td> - <td class="pagno"><a href="#Page_171">171</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr><td colspan="2" class="chap">CHAPTER XVII.</td></tr> - -<tr> - <td class="text">The Railway—Lord Raglan—Cossacks—The Navvies—Russian Deserters—The - Railway</td> - <td class="pagno"><a href="#Page_182">182</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr><td colspan="2" class="chap">CHAPTER XVIII.</td></tr> - -<tr> - <td class="text">St. Patrick's Day—Rifle Pits—Fourth Division—French Loss—The - Siege—General Attack—Flag of Truce—Burying the Dead—Wooden - Huts—Turkish Troops—Divine Service</td> - <td class="pagno"><a href="#Page_193">193</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr><td colspan="2" class="chap">CHAPTER XIX.</td></tr> - -<tr> - <td class="text">Bombardment—Tents blown down—Siege—Lieut. Williams—Wounded—Sailors—Go - to Hospital—Description—Sardinians—Discharged - from Hospital—Attack on Quarries—Flag of Truce—Burying the - Dead</td> - <td class="pagno"><a href="#Page_203">203</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr><td colspan="2" class="chap">CHAPTER XX.</td></tr> - -<tr> - <td class="text">Bombardment—The Assault—Great Redan—The Battle—Balaklava—Hospital—Miss - Nightingale—Nurses—Promoted—Discharged from - Hospital—Death of Lord Raglan</td> - <td class="pagno"><a href="#Page_214">214</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr><td colspan="2" class="chap">CHAPTER XXI.</td></tr> - -<tr> - <td class="text">Captain Colthurst—Siege—Bombardment—Assault—Redan—The - Battle—8th September—The Evacuation—Russians—British in - Sebastopol</td> - <td class="pagno"><a href="#Page_228">228</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr><td colspan="2" class="chap">CHAPTER XXII.</td></tr> - -<tr> - <td class="text">Expedition to Kinburn—The Voyage—Odessa—Landing—Cutting - Trenches—Bombardment—The White Flag—Capitulation—The - Prisoners—<i>Reconnaissance</i>—The March—Village—Bivouac—March—A - Village—Pigs and Geese—Departure—The Fleet—Return—Sir - W. Codrington—Russian Spy</td> - <td class="pagno"><a href="#Page_241">241</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr><td colspan="2" class="chap">CHAPTER XXIII.</td></tr> - -<tr> - <td class="text">Armistice—Cessation of Hostilities—Exchange of Coins—Heir to French - Imperial Throne—Treaty of Peace—Invitations—Grand Review—Removal - of the Army—Embarkation—The Voyage—Ship on Fire—Arrival - at Malta—Join the Reserve Battalion—Proceed to Alexandria—The - Voyage—Arrival—Visit Places of Renown—Visit - Cairo—The Nile—Arrival—The City—Bazaars</td> - <td class="pagno"><a href="#Page_253">253</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr><td colspan="2" class="chap">CHAPTER XXIV.</td></tr> - -<tr> - <td class="text">The Pyramids—Crossing the Nile—Island of Roda—Ark of Bulrushes—Visit - Cheops—Heliopolis—Palace of Shoobra—Palm Groves—The - Citadel—Joseph's Well—Dervishes—Return</td> - <td class="pagno"><a href="#Page_266">266</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr><td colspan="2" class="chap">CHAPTER XXV.</td></tr> - -<tr> - <td class="text">The Hospital—Mohammedan Sabbath—Departure—The Voyage—Malta—Departure—Voyage - for England—Portsmouth—Voyage to - Dublin—Arrival at Limerick—The 6th Royal Regiment—Promoted—Aldershot—Route - for Gibraltar—The Voyage</td> - <td class="pagno"><a href="#Page_281">281</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr><td colspan="2" class="chap">CHAPTER XXVI.</td></tr> - -<tr> - <td class="text">Arrival—Spanish Bull-fights—Lieut. Jackson—Change Quarters—The - Rock—Monkeys—Caves—Gardens—War in Algiers—Corfu—Voyage—Arrival—Santa - Maria—Desertion—The March—Greeks</td> - <td class="pagno"><a href="#Page_296">296</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr><td colspan="2" class="chap">CHAPTER XXVII.</td></tr> - -<tr> - <td class="text">Sir Henry Storks—Albania—Visit Nicropolis—The Brigand Chief—Turkish - Baths—Coffee Houses—Turkish Ladies' Costume—Sergeants' - Ball—The Route—Corfu—Route—West Indies—The Voyage—The - Burning Mountain—Gibraltar—Madeira—Teneriffe—Santa - Cruz—Cape de Verde Islands—Trinidad—Jamaica</td> - <td class="pagno"><a href="#Page_309">309</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr><td colspan="2" class="chap">CHAPTER XXVIII.</td></tr> - -<tr> - <td class="text">Jamaica—The Exhibition—Market—Rebellion—the Commission—Col. - Hobbs—The Voyage—Route—Voyage—Queen's Birth-day—Edinburgh—Calton - Hill—Tolbooth—Queen Mary's Room—Dunoon—Discharged—Dalkeith—Glasgow—Embark - for Canada—The - Voyage—Arrival—Montreal—Kingston—Picton—The Dunkin Bill—Marquis - of Lorne</td> - <td class="pagno"><a href="#Page_327">327</a></td> -</tr> - -</table> - -<h2>TESTIMONIALS TO THE WRITER.</h2> - -<div class="letter"> - -<div class="right1"><span class="smcap">Edinburgh Castle</span>, - <i>April</i> 26<i>th</i>, 1868.</div> - -<p>I have great pleasure in stating that I have known Sergeant Thomas -Faughnan for about nine years, and during most of that period he was Pay -and Colour-Sergt. of my Company. He was also Sergt.-Major of a Detachment -of which I had command, and I cannot say too much in his favour, -either as a soldier or as a trustworthy person.</p> - -<p>He always gave me the greatest satisfaction, in the position he was placed; -both by his high sense of discipline, as well as his entire knowledge of drill, -and he leaves the Regiment with the respect of every one.</p> - -<div class="right2">(Signed) JOHN E. TEWART,</div> - -<div class="right0"><i>Captain, 2nd Batt., 6th Royal Regiment.</i></div> - -<div class="left1">[<span class="smcap">True Copy.</span>]</div> - -</div> - -<div class="letter"> - -<p>Sergeant Faughnan was discharged from the 2nd Battalion, 6th Foot, in -Edinburgh, May, 1868, after twenty-one years' service, with an excellent -character, I have pleasure in stating that I consider him a most honest, -trustworthy, respectable man; for many years he held positions of much -responsibility.</p> - -<div class="right2">(Signed) JOHN ELKINGTON,</div> - -<div class="right0"><i>Colonel Commd'g 2nd Batt., 6th Royal Regiment</i>.</div> - -<div class="left1"><span class="smcap">Aldershot Camp</span>, <i>July</i> 10<i>th</i>, 1868.</div> - -<div class="left1">[<span class="smcap">True Copy.</span>]</div> - -</div> - -<div class="letter"> - -<div class="right1"><span class="smcap">Aldershot Camp</span>, - <i>July</i> 12<i>th</i>, 1868.</div> - -<p>I have known Sergeant Faughnan for the last five years, in the 2nd Batt. -6th Regiment, and can say that he has behaved himself very well in every -way as a soldier. He was an honest, willing and sober man; he was also -Mess Sergeant for several years, and gave every satisfaction, and deserves to -get on in the world, and I much wish he may do so.</p> - -<div class="right2">(Signed) SPENCER FIELD,</div> - -<div class="right0"><i>Captain, 2nd Batt., 6th Royal Regiment</i>.</div> - -<div class="left1">[<span class="smcap">True Copy.</span>]</div> - -</div> - -<div class="letter"> - -<p>I have known Sergeant Thomas Faughnan, late Sergeant in the 2nd -Battalion, 6th Regiment, for about ten years, during which time he served -as Pay and Colour-Sergeant to a Company with great satisfaction to the -Captains; also as Sergeant-Major to a Detachment, in which position, by -his steady conduct and fair knowledge of drill, he commanded the respect -of his superiors. He has since served as Mess and Wine Sergeant to the -Battalion, and has been sober and attentive to those duties. I can recommend -him as a general useful Non Commissioned officer.</p> - -<div class="right2">(Signed) HENRY KITCHENER,</div> - -<div class="right0"><i>Lieut, and Adjt. 2nd Battalion, 6th Foot</i>.</div> - -<div class="left1"><span class="smcap">Edinburgh Castle</span>, 25, 4, '68.</div> - -<div class="left1">[<span class="smcap">True Copy.</span>]</div> - -</div> - -<div class="letter"> - -<p>I have known Sergeant Faughnan—now taking his discharge from the 6th -Regiment, with a pension, after twenty one years' service—since the year -1860, and have served with him in Gibraltar, the Ionian Islands, and the -West Indies. Up to 1865 he was a Colour-Sergeant of the Regiment, and -as such was very much respected. About the middle of the year he became -Sergeant of the Officers' Mess, in which position he remained up to the departure -of the Regiment from Edinburgh, on the 22nd May, 1868. He was -for about two years caterer of the said Mess, and in addition had charge of -all wines, ale, &c. Thousands of pounds must have passed through his -hands, for every portion of which he has had to account, and his remaining -up to the last moment in the Mess is a proof of his having done so most -satisfactorily. I, myself, have a very high opinion of Sergeant Faughnan -for his straightforwardness, honesty, sobriety, ability, and steady good conduct. -I am sure his loss will be much felt in the 6th Regiment.</p> - -<div class="right2">(Signed) L. B. HOLE,</div> - -<div class="right0"><i>Captain, 2nd Batt., 6th Royal Regiment</i>.</div> - -<div class="left1">[<span class="smcap">True Copy.</span>]</div> - -</div> - -<div class="letter"> - -<p>I have known Sergeant T. Faughnan for the last seven years, and have -always found him honest, sober, quiet and obliging. He is a good accountant, -and was employed in charge of the Mess, 2nd Batt., 6th Regiment for -some time, and gave every satisfaction. He was also a Colour-Sergeant and -had charge and payment of a Company for some time, and resigned his -colours to go to the Mess.</p> - -<div class="right2">(Signed) W. G. ANNESLEY,</div> - -<div class="right0"><i>Captain, 2nd Batt. 6th Royal Regiment.</i></div> - -<div class="left1"><span class="smcap">Aldershot Camp</span>, <i>June</i> 8<i>th</i>, 1868.</div> - -<div class="left1">[<span class="smcap">True Copy.</span>]</div> - -</div> - -<div> - -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">{17}</a></span> - -<div class="image-center"> - <img src="images/bar-1.jpg" width="350" height="60" alt="bar"/> -</div> - - <p class="center">STIRRING INCIDENTS<br /> - <span class="x-small">IN THE LIFE OF</span><br /> - <span class="large">A BRITISH SOLDIER</span></p> - -<h2>CHAPTER I.</h2> - -<p class="header">EDUCATION—MY SCHOOLMASTER—SCHOOL HOUSE—MY FATHER, -MOTHER, SISTERS—OUR HOUSE.</p> - -</div> - -<div> - <img class="drop-cap" src="images/drop-i.jpg" width="38" height="80" alt="i"/> -</div> - -<p class="drop-cap"><span class="uppercase">I have</span> -for some time been trying to think how far -back my memory could go; but, as far as I can judge, -the earliest definite recollection I have is the discovery -of how I played the truant, in stopping on the way-side -playing pitch and toss, instead of going to school; and -how I cut all the buttons of my jacket and trowsers for -the purpose of gambling with other boys. After losing -all my buttons, I had to pin my jacket to my trousers. -In Ireland in those days, boys had to be content with -gambling for buttons instead of coppers as now-a-days. -I was late for school, and was rather remarkable, going -in with my trousers and jacket fastened together with -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">{18}</a></span> -pins. I remember well the master called me over to him. -Oh! I will never forget his spiteful countenance, and how -he showed his ivories. My heart beat fast. I thought I -was very wicked, and fright made my heart jump to my -mouth. I had to stand my trial. Master: "Well, boy, -what kept you late for school?" Before I had time to -answer, "How came the buttons off your clothes; tell -me straightforward at once, who cut them off, and what -became of them? Hold up your head and speak out." "I—I—I—cut -them off, sir, to play with the boys, and they -won my buttons." "O, ho! you have been gambling, -have you? I will teach you to cut the buttons off your -clothes to gamble. Go, stand in that corner until I am -through with the class."</p> - -<p>"Pat Cannon, take this knife, go out and cut a strong -birch, this one I have is nearly worn out. I want a strong -one for this youth."</p> - -<p>While I was standing in the corner, one of the boys, -or, as we used to call them, "gossoons," stole over to me -and gave me a big shawl-pin, saying: "Stick this in the -boy's neck who takes you on his back." I took the pin -as I was told, and nerved myself up for the occasion.</p> - -<p>"Dan McLaughlin, take Thomas Faughnan on your -back."</p> - -<p>I was brought up in due form. "Take off your jacket; -get on Dan McLaughlin's back."</p> - -<p>No sooner had I got on his back, and before the master -had time to administer the first stroke of the birch, -than I sunk the big pin into the boy's neck. He shouted at -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">{19}</a></span> -the top of his voice, yelling as if he had been stabbed -with a knife, and fell over the other boys, causing great -commotion. In the uproar and confusion I made my escape -out of the school, jacket in hand. The master stood -in a state of amazement. It took him quite a while to -restore order among the boys. I waited outside until the -school came out, then went home with my comrades as if -nothing had happened, and did not go to school again for -three days. The master reported my absence. My father -questioned me concerning my absence from school. I -then told him the whole affair, and, as I was afraid of -getting another flogging, he accompanied me to the school -next day.</p> - -<p>It will be necessary, here, to describe the master and -the school. The master had only one leg and that was -his right; he had lost his left when young, by some means -which I never heard of; he walked with a long crutch -under his left arm, and a short one in his right hand. He -trotted very fast, considering that he went on crutches. -He was in truth a terror to dogs or animals which dared -to cross his path on his way to and from the school, and -could most wonderfully use the right hand crutch with -great skill and alacrity, in his own defence.</p> - -<p>The school was held in the chapel, which was a most -peculiar edifice of ancient architectural design. Its shape -was that of a triangle, each side of which formed a long -hall, one for boys, the other for girls; there was a gallery -at the extreme end of the girls' hall which the choir occupied -during divine service.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">{20}</a></span> -The structure was one story in height, and had a very -high, slanting, thatched roof, with narrow gables. The -edge of the gables rose, not in a slope, but in a succession -of notches, like stairs. Altogether it had an extraordinary -look about it, a look of the time when men had to fight in -order to have peace, to kill in order to live—every man's -hand against his brother. The altar stood in the acute -corner of the angle, facing the men's hall, with a railing -around it. Under the altar was a small hole sufficiently -large enough for a boy to crawl in. One day I had done -something for which the master started to punish my -back with the birch. He was laying it on pretty stiffly, and -he had me in a tight place, when, in self defence, I pulled -the crutch from under him. He fell over and I retreated -into the hole under the altar. However, tracing me out, -he started to dislodge me with his long crutch. For every -thrust he gave me, I gave him one in return, until I -found he was too strong for me, when I made one drive -at him, jumped out of my hiding place, and left for home -in a hurry that day. Next day I expected a flogging, but -I got off much easier than I had anticipated. Afterwards—how -strange!—he took quite a liking to me. The -number of pupils attending was over two hundred. -The hall was supplied with fuel by a contribution of two -turfs from each scholar every morning, which he brought -under his arm.</p> - -<p>Enough of my school history—it would spin out my -narrative unnecessarily. I shall only relate such occurrences -as may be necessary to lead to those main -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">{21}</a></span> -events which properly constitute my eventful history. -I remember my father, but not my mother. She died -when I was yet a baby, and the woman I had been -taught to call mother was only my stepmother. My -father had married a second time, and now our family -consisted of my father, stepmother, two sisters, and myself. -Our house was of olden-time stone, gray and brown. -It looked very gray and yet there was a homely, comfortable -appearance about it. A visitor's first step was into -what would in some parts here be called "house place"—a -room which served all the purposes of kitchen and dining-room. -It rose to a fair height, with smoked-stained oaken -beams above, and was floored with a home-made kind -of cement, hard enough, and yet so worn that it required -a good deal of local knowledge to avoid certain jars of the -spine from sudden changes of level.</p> - -<p>My sisters kept the furniture very clean and shining, -especially the valued pewter on the dresser. The square -table, with its spider-like accumulation of legs, stood -under the window until meal times, when, like an animal -aroused from its lair, it stretched those legs and assumed -expanded, symmetrical shape, in front of the fireplace in -winter, and nearer the door in summer. Its memory recalls -the occasion of my stepmother, with a hand at each -end of it, searching frantically for the level, poking for it -with the creature's own legs before lifting the hanging -leaves, and then drawing out the hitherto supernumerary -legs to support them, after which would come another -fresh adjustment, another hustling to and fro, that the -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">{22}</a></span> -new feet likewise might have some chance to rest. The -walls of this room were always whitewashed in spring, -occasioning ever a sharpened contrast with the dark -brown oak ceiling. If that was ever swept I never knew. -I do not remember ever seeing it done. At all events its -colour remained unimpaired by hand or whitewash. On -the walls hung several articles, some of them high above -my head, which attracted my attention particularly. -There was a fishing-rod, which required the whole length -between the windows to support it. There were old bookshelves, -hanging between the old pewter, of which we -were very proud; my father's temperance medal, which -he received from Father Mathew; a picture of Dan O'Connell, -the "Irish Liberator;" several other pictures, and -many articles of antique and Irish origin. I need not -linger over these things. Their proper place is in the -picture with which I would save words and help understanding -if I could.</p> - -<p class="center gap-above">MY NATIVE VILLAGE.</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - -<div class="stanza"> -<div class="verse">Dear Fiarana! loveliest village of the green.</div> -<div class="verse">Where humble happiness endeared each scene;</div> -<div class="verse">The never-failing brook at Drumod Mill,</div> -<div class="verse">The parish church on John Nutley's hill.</div> -</div> - -<div class="stanza"> -<div class="verse">There in the old thatched chapel, skilled to rule,</div> -<div class="verse">The one-legged master taught the parish school;</div> -<div class="verse">A learned man was he, but stern to view—</div> -<div class="verse">His crutch he often used, and well the gossoons knew.</div> -</div> - -<div class="stanza"> -<div class="pagenum"><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">{23}</a></div> -<div class="verse">Well had the daring urchins learned to trace</div> -<div class="verse">His scowling countenance and his fierce grimace;</div> -<div class="verse">And yet they laughed with much delight and glee</div> -<div class="verse">At all his tales, for many a one had he.</div> -</div> - -<div class="stanza"> -<div class="verse">In all my travels round this world so fair,</div> -<div class="verse">Of trials and marches I have had my share;</div> -<div class="verse">I still have hope my latter days to crown,</div> -<div class="verse">And 'midst old friends at home to lay me down.</div> -</div> - -<div class="stanza"> -<div class="verse">I trust and hope to visit home again,</div> -<div class="verse">And sell my book to every village swain;</div> -<div class="verse">Around the hearth a wondering crowd to draw,</div> -<div class="verse">While spinning yarns of what I heard and saw.</div> -</div> - -<div class="stanza"> -<div class="verse">Men who a military life pursue,</div> -<div class="verse">Look forward to the home from whence they flew;</div> -<div class="verse">I still have hopes, my long eventful past,</div> -<div class="verse">Some day return, and stay at home last.</div> -</div> - -<div class="right2 small smcap">T. Faughnan.</div> - -</div> -</div> - -<div class="image-center"> - <img src="images/dec-1.jpg" width="150" height="50" alt="dec"/> -</div> - -<div> - -<div class="pagenum"><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">{24}</a></div> - -<div class="image-center"> - <img src="images/bar-2.jpg" width="350" height="56" alt="bar"/> -</div> - -<h2>CHAPTER II.</h2> - -<p class="header">RIVER SHANNON—DERRY CARNE—OUR FARM—MY SISTERS GET -MARRIED—CAVE—STILL-HOUSE—STILL AND WORM—PROCESS—INTERIOR—REVENUE -POLICE—IRISH WAKE—FUNERAL.</p> - -</div> - -<div> - <img class="drop-cap" src="images/drop-o.jpg" width="66" height="80" alt="o"/> -</div> - -<p class="drop-cap"><span class="uppercase">Our</span> -residence was situated on a beautiful bay of the -River Shannon in the County of Leitrim.</p> - -<p>The month was July, and nothing could be more exhilarating -than the breezes which played over the green -fields that were now radiant with the light which was -flooded down upon them from the cloudless sun. Around -them, in every field, were the tokens of that pleasant labour -from which the hope of an ample and abundant harvest -always springs.</p> - -<p>The bay was bounded on the east by a large wood -which abounds in game of every description. Gentlemen -from the surrounding counties were frequently invited by -its owner, Francis Nesbitt, Esq., Derry Carne, during the -shooting and fishing season. Many times I have been -out with them, coming home foot-sore in the evening, -after traversing the woods all day with the sportsmen. -Those were happy days.</p> - -<p>My father and the hired man, with the help of my two -sisters managed to sow and gather in the produce of the -small farm. I, being the only son, was kept at school till -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">{25}</a></span> -about sixteen years old, after which I had to make myself -useful around the house and farm. I was about -twelve years old when my eldest sister was married; -about two years afterwards my other sister took unto -herself a partner, for better, for worse. After those -events our family dwindled down to three, viz., my father, -stepmother, and myself.</p> - -<p>About this time I roamed about the country a good -deal. In the evenings a few other boys and myself assembled -in a "Potteen Still-house" to see the men who -manufactured the potteen, and hear them tell stories. It -was situated about two miles in a north-western direction -from our residence. The country was very rugged and -wild, but picturesque. Although a portion of the same -landscape, nothing could be more strikingly distinct in -character than the position of those hills. They formed -a splendid pasture lane for sheep. In approaching these -hills you struck into a "Borheen," or lane which conducted -you to the front of a steep precipice of rocks -about fifty feet high. In the northern cover of this -ravine there was an entrance to a subterraneous passage -twenty feet long, which led to a large chamber or deep -cave, having every convenience for a place of private -distillation. Under the rocks which met over it was a -kind of gothic arch, and a stream of water just sufficient -for the requisite purpose fell in through a fissure from -above, forming such a little cascade in the cavern as -human design itself could scarcely have surpassed in perfect -adaptation for the object of an illicit distiller. To -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">{26}</a></span> -this cave, then, we must take the liberty of transporting -our readers, in order to give them an opportunity of getting -a peep at the inside of a "Potteen Still-house." In -that end which constituted the termination of the cave, -and fixed upon a large turf fire which burned within a -circle of stones that supported it, was a tolerably sized -still made of copper. The mouth of this still was enclosed -by an air-tight cover, also of copper, called the -head, from which a tube of the same metal projected into -a large condenser that was kept always filled with cold -water by an incessant stream from the cascade I have -already described, which always ran into and overflowed it.</p> - -<p>The arm of this head was made air-tight, fitting into a -spiral tube of copper, called the worm, which rested in -the water of the cooler; and as it consisted of several -twists like a corkscrew, its effect was to condense the hot -vapour which was transmitted to it from the glowing still -into that description of alcohol known as potteen whiskey -or "mountain dew."</p> - -<p>At the bottom of the cooler the worm terminated in -a small cock, from which the spirits passed in a slender -stream about the thickness of a pipe-stem into a vessel -placed for its reception. Such was the position of the -still, head, and worm, when in full operation.</p> - -<p>Fixed about the cave, on wooden benches, were the -usual requisites for the various processes through which -it was necessary to put the malt before the wort, which -is the first liquid shape, was fermented, cleared and passed -into the still to be singled; for our readers must -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">{27}</a></span> -know that distillation is a double process, the first produced -being called singlings, and the second or last doublings—which -is the perfect liquor. Sacks of malt, empty -barrels, piles of turf, heaps of grain, tubs of wash, kegs of -whiskey, were lying about in all directions; together with -pots, pans, wooden-trenchers, and dishes for culinary use.</p> - -<p>On entering, your nose was assaulted by such a fume -of warm grains, sour barm, and strong whiskey, as required -considerable fortitude to bear, without very unequivocal -tokens of disgust. Seated around the fire were -a party of shebeen men and three or four publicans who -came on professional business.</p> - -<p>In order to evade the vigilance of the "Revenue -Police," or, as they were called, "Still Hunters," the -smoke, which passed through a hole in the roof, came -up into a pasture field. On the top of this hole was -fitted a wide flag, made to be shifted at will. On the top -of this flag was kept a turf fire, in charge, of a boy who -herded sheep and goats. When the boy saw the police advancing -towards the fire he would shift the flag over the -hole. The police came, lit their pipes, walked off, and -suspected nothing. The boy then shifted back the flag, -in order to let the smoke escape. In this way they escaped -detection.</p> - -<p>Several illicit stills flourished in this part of the country, -which I frequently visited during the winter evenings. -When there happened to be a wake I often accompanied -parties for whiskey to this still-house; it being the custom -to have a supply of liquor to enliven the guests -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">{28}</a></span> -on good occasions. The boys and girls always expected -a good time for fun and frolic at a wake, especially if it -was an old person who gave up the ghost; therefore it -was looked forward to as a kind of pleasurable occurrence -to the rising generation. I became a regular frequenter -on such occasions, for a radius of three or four miles. -The corpse was laid out on a table, with a white curtain -similar to those over a bed. On the same table, in front -were six lighted candles. At the entrance stood a table -furnished with bottles of whiskey, glasses, tobacco and -pipes, for those who drank and smoked to help themselves. -An old woman sat at the head of the corpse -whose duty it was to start the crying on the entrance of -a guest. After they got through with the crying, the -host passed round whiskey, tobacco and pipes; when the -conversation went on as if nothing had happened, except -the loud crying, which was only the women's part, the -men not joining in it.</p> - -<p>When my stepmother's sister died, I put an onion to -my eyes, in order to cause them to shed tears, which had -the desired effect. Those wakes generally last two or -three nights. Whiskey is passed round previous to the -funeral procession starting from the house.</p> - -<p>On returning the processionists invariably called into a -"shebeen" to have a sociable chat and a parting glass to -drown their sorrows. I refrain from quoting the conversation -of those peasants, as it would take up too much -space and defeat my object in laying the history of my -life and travels before my readers.</p> - -<div> - -<div class="pagenum"><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">{29}</a></div> - -<div class="image-center"> - <img src="images/bar-3.jpg" width="360" height="60" alt="bar"/> -</div> - -<h2>CHAPTER III.</h2> - -<p class="header">ADVANCED SCHOOL—STATE OF THE COUNTRY—EMIGRATION—CAUSE -OF POVERTY—IRISH LANDLORDS—POTATO CROP—DISHONEST -AGENTS—ELECTIONS—POLITICS—MY SISTER EMIGRATES—I ENLIST.</p> - -</div> - -<div> - <img class="drop-cap" src="images/drop-a.jpg" width="64" height="80" alt="a"/> -</div> - -<p class="drop-cap"><span class="uppercase">About</span> -the time this chapter opens I had been removed -from the country school (which has been -already described in the first chapter), and sent to a much -more advanced and better school, in the town of Drumod, -County Leitrim. I continued at this school about four -years, during which time I had waxed strong in mind, -strength, and learning. In the meanwhile the state of the -country gradually assumed a worse and more depressing -character.</p> - -<p>Indeed, at this period of my narrative, the position of -Ireland was very gloomy. Situated as the country was, -emigration went forward on an extensive scale—emigration, -too, of that particular description which every day -enfeebles and impoverishes the country, by depriving her -of all that approaches to anything like a comfortable and -independent yeomanry. This, indeed, is a kind of depletion -which no country can bear long; and, as it is, at the -moment I write this, progressing at a rate beyond all -precedent, it will not, I trust, be altogether uninteresting -to enquire into some of the causes that have occasioned it. -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">{30}</a></span> -Of course the principal cause of emigration is the poverty -and the depressed state of the country, wages often being -as low as eight-pence a day, and it follows naturally that -whatever occasions our poverty will necessarily occasion -emigration. The first cause of our poverty then is "absenteeism," -which, by drawing six million pounds out of -the country, deprives our people of employment and means -of life to that amount. The next is the general inattention -of Irish landlords to the state and condition of their -property, and an inexcusable want of sympathy with their -tenantry, which indeed is only a corollary from the former, -for it can hardly be expected that those who wilfully -neglect themselves will feel a warm interest in others. -Political corruption in the shape of the forty shilling -franchise, was another cause, and one of the very worst, -which led to the prostration of the country by poverty -and moral degradation, and for this proprietors of the land -were solely responsible. Nor can the use of the potato as -the staple food of the labouring class, in connection with -the truck or credit system and the consequent absence of -money payments,—in addition to the necessary ignorance -of domestic and social comforts, that resulted,—be left out -of this wretched catalogue of our grievances. Another -cause of emigration is to be found in the high and exorbitant -rents at which land is held by all classes of farmers—with -some exceptions, such as in the case of old leases—but -especially by those who hold under middlemen, or -on the principle of sub-letting generally.</p> - -<p>By this system a vast deal of distress and petty but -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">{31}</a></span> -most harassing oppression is every day in active operation, -which the head landlord can never know, and for which -he is in no other way responsible than by want of knowledge -of his estates.</p> - -<p>There are still causes, however, which too frequently -drive the independent farmer out of the country. In too -many cases it happens that the rapacity and dishonesty -of the agent, countenanced or stimulated by the necessities -and reckless extravagance of the landlord, fall like -some unwholesome blight upon that enterprise and industry -which would ultimately, if properly encouraged, -make the country prosperous, and the landed proprietors -independent men. I allude to the nefarious and monstrous -custom of ejecting tenants who have made improvements, -or, when permitted to remain, make them pay for -the improvements which they have made.</p> - -<p>A vast proportion of this crying and oppressive evil -must be laid directly to the charge of those who fill the -responsible situation of landlords and agents to property -in Ireland, than whom in general there does not exist a -more unscrupulous, oppressive, arrogant, and dishonest -class of men. Exceptions of course there are, and many, -but speaking of them as a body, I unhappily assert -nothing but what the conditions of property, and of those -who live upon it, do at this moment and have for many -years testified. I have already stated that there was a -partial failure in the potato crops that season, a circumstance -which ever is the forerunner of famine and sickness.</p> - -<p>The failure, however, on that occasion, was not alone -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">{32}</a></span> -caused by a blight in the stalks, but large portions of the -seed failing to grow. In addition, however, to all I have -already detailed as affecting the neighbourhood, or rather -the parish, of Anaduff, I have to inform my readers -that the country was soon about to have a contested -election. Viscount Clemens and Samuel White, Esq., -were the opposing candidates. The former had been a -convert to Liberalism, and the latter a sturdy Conservative, -a good deal bigoted in politics, but possessing that rare -and inestimable quality which constitutes an honest man.</p> - -<p>It was a hard contested election. The electors throughout -the country were driven to the town on side cars escorted -by police. The excitement was fearful. However -the people's candidate gained the election. There was a -large amount of whiskey drunk during this election and -there was plenty of fighting.</p> - -<p>At this time my eldest sister, with her husband, emigrated -to Canada. On parting with her she said she -would send for me, but I did not like the idea of going -to America or Canada at that time, although I heard -good reports from both countries. I thought instead -that I would go for a soldier. I had seen splendid, tall -soldiers frequently marching past our house, when I -invariably accompanied them for several miles to hear -their band play. With this intention I went to the fair -of Mohill, on the 8th of May, 1847. There I met a recruiting -party. I went up to the sergeant and asked him if -he would take me for a soldier; he answered me in the -affirmative. He then told me to answer the following -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">{33}</a></span> -question, viz.: "Are you free, willing and able to serve -Her Majesty Queen Victoria, her heirs and successors, for -a period of twenty-one years?" I answered, "I am." -"Then take this shilling in the name of the Queen." I -"took the shilling," and was one of Queen Victoria's soldiers, -and of the 17th regiment of foot. I must say I -never regretted it since.</p> - -<p class="center gap-above">MY OWN, MY NATIVE LAND.</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="stanza"> - -<div class="verse quote">"Where'er I roam, whatever realms to see,</div> -<div class="verse">My heart untravelled fondly turns to thee;</div> -<div class="verse">Such is the patriot's boast where'er we roam;</div> -<div class="verse">His first, best country, ever is at home.</div> -<div class="verse">And trembling, shrinking from the spoiler's hand,</div> -<div class="verse">Far, far away thy children leave the land.</div> -<div class="verse">Ill fares the land, to hastening ills a prey,</div> -<div class="verse">Where wealth accumulates, and men decay:</div> -<div class="verse">Princes and lords may flourish, or may fade;</div> -<div class="verse">A breath can make them, as a breath has made;</div> -<div class="verse">But a bold peasantry, their country's pride,</div> -<div class="verse">When once destroyed, can never be supplied.</div> -<div class="verse">A time there was, ere Ireland's griefs began,</div> -<div class="verse">When every rood of ground maintained its man;</div> -<div class="verse">For him light labour spread her wholesome store,</div> -<div class="verse">Just gave what life required, but gave no more;</div> -<div class="verse">His best companions, innocence and health;</div> -<div class="verse">And his best riches, ignorance of wealth.</div> -<div class="verse">The broken soldier kindly bade to stay,</div> -<div class="verse">Sat by his fire, and talked the night away;</div> -<div class="verse">Wept o'er his wounds or tales of sorrow done,</div> -<div class="verse">Shouldered his crutch and showed how fields were won."</div> - -</div> -</div> -</div> - -<div> - -<div class="pagenum"><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">{34}</a></div> - -<div class="image-center"> - <img src="images/bar-4.jpg" width="350" height="60" alt="bar"/> -</div> - -<h2>CHAPTER IV.</h2> - -<p class="header">SWEARING IN—MARCH TO DUBLIN—BEGGARS' BUSH BARRACKS—RATIONS—THE -CITY—EMBARKATION—THE SHIP—THE VOYAGE—LIVERPOOL—TRAIN -TO LONDON—BILLETS—CANTERBURY—JOIN THE -17TH REGIMENT.</p> - -</div> - -<div> - <img class="drop-cap" src="images/drop-t.jpg" width="51" height="80" alt="t"/> -</div> - -<p class="drop-cap"><span class="uppercase">The</span> -sergeant conducted me to the rendezvous, where -I passed a medical examination, and was returned -fit for "Her Majesty's Service." He then ushered me into -a room in which were five more brothers-in arms.</p> - -<p>Next morning at ten o'clock I was taken before a magistrate -and sworn-in, after which I received a half-crown, -called "swearing-in money." My sister and stepmother -hearing I had enlisted came after me the following day, -and tried to get me off, but the sergeant would not hear -of it, and I was unwilling, as I had made up my mind to -be a soldier, as I was anxious to get away from my relatives. -My anxiety was soon realized, for next morning, -after breakfast, we were on the road for Dublin in charge -of a staff sergeant, the distance being one hundred and -fifty miles, which we accomplished in ten days. During -the journey the sergeant amused us with stories of his -experience in the regiment to which he belonged, marches -in different countries, and several battles he had fought. -It being the month of May, the roads were in good condition, -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">{35}</a></span> -the weather salubrious, and the country beautiful -in the summer sun.</p> - -<p>On our arrival in the evening we were billetted at a -public house, where soon after our arrival we enjoyed a -hot meal, the landlord being allowed ten-pence for the -same, this being according to "Her Majesty's Regulations." -After we had regaled ourselves with the landlord's hospitality, -the sergeant enjoyed himself with his pipe and a -glass or two of beer; he also gave us some of it to drink. -I had never tasted beer previous to this, although I had -often tasted "potheen whiskey." After the sergeant had -finished his pipe and glass of beer, we retired to bed, -slept well, and dreamed of long marches. We were on -the march again next morning at eight o'clock, and so -every day until we reached Dublin, which we accomplished -in ten days. On arriving in that city I was -astonished at the appearance of the splendid high buildings, -the like of which I had never seen before; they -formed a striking contrast with the cabins which I had -been used to look upon in Leitrim.</p> - -<p>We entered the city from the south, marched past the -Royal Barracks, along the Liffy to Carlisle Bridge, where -we crossed over; thence past the Bank and Trinity College, -to Beggars' Bush Barracks where we were to await -orders to join the depôt of our regiment in Canterbury.</p> - -<p>On our arrival in barracks we were told off to different -companies <i>pro tem.</i> until our embarkation for Liverpool. -This was my first night in barracks. I was shown -a bed or cot, with three pegs over it, to hang my clothes -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">{36}</a></span> -on. We soon got acquainted with other recruits, and -old soldiers, who showed us to the canteen, where there -was a large company of soldiers and recruits carousing -and singing. On the first post sounding, we had to answer -our names in barracks at tattoo roll-call, and be in -bed at last post. Fifteen minutes afterwards "out lights" -was sounded, when all the lights were put out, except the -orderly sergeants', who had fifteen minutes longer for -theirs. "Reveillé" sounded next morning at five, when -we all got up, made our beds, and were on parade at six -o'clock, when we were drilled till half-past seven, were -practised at setting up drill and the goose step. It being -my first drill, I was awkward; we had three such drills -daily (Sundays excepted), while we were in these barracks. -On being dismissed, we went to breakfast, which -consisted of a pound of bread and a basin of coffee each; -my appetite being good, I made short work of the pound -of bread. Our dinner consisted of soup, beef and potatoes; -at supper we got a quarter of a pound of bread and -a basin of tea. After paying for our rations, washing, -and barrack damages, there were four-pence left, which I -received every day at twelve o'clock, so that I could spend -that much for extra food if I wanted it; some of the recruits -preferred to spend it in beer.</p> - -<p>When the daily afternoon drill was over I generally -walked into the city to see what I could of the place. I -went past some splendid shops, saw the soldiers on guard -at the castle, went into the Royal, Ship-street, and Linen -Hall Barracks, visited Nelson's monument, Sackville -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">{37}</a></span> -Streets, Four Courts and Burns' saloon in the evening. -After we had been a week in barracks, an order came for -us to proceed to Canterbury and join our depôt there; -this order was most agreeable, and we hailed it with -pleasure, for we were anxious to get into our uniform. -Accordingly two days afterwards, fourteen of us, with a -staff sergeant in charge, were paraded on the barrack-square. -After we had signed our accounts, and were told -that our bounty would be paid to us on arrival at our depôt, -we were told to number off from the right, and showed -how to "form four deep;" the command "quick march" -being given, we marched off to the north wall for embarkation -on board a steamer which was to sail for Liverpool -at four p.m. that day. An officer accompanied us to -the steamer to see us all safe on board.</p> - -<p>Several soldiers came to see us off. I would like to tell -my reader more about Dublin; but, as I hope to visit it -again during my soldiering, I will defer them till further -experience has increased my stock of knowledge. Four -o'clock p.m. was the time set for our departure; we were -all well pleased when we got on board; the afternoon was -beautiful, so we anticipated a pleasant voyage. An -ocean-ship was to me a novel place, and I had many things -to learn. "What is that little flag at the main mast?" -said I to a man standing near me. "That they call a Blue -Peter; it indicates that the ship is to sail immediately." -"And what is that flag at the stern?" "Why, that is -the Union Jack, the pride and boast of every British -subject."</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">{38}</a></span> -My reflections were broken by the loud, sharp cry of -the ships captain, "all on board." The last warning -was given; friends hastily exchanged the farewell tokens -of affection. I saw many, too, struggling to keep their tears -back. I stood alone; no one knew me or cared particularly -for me, but I was not an uninterested spectator. I -dropped a few tears when I looked at my native land, -which I was about to leave, and thought of the friends I -had left behind me. All was in readiness,—ten minutes -past four o'clock p.m. the ponderous machine was put in -motion; the huge paddle-wheels lazily obeyed the mandate. -The Blue Peter came down and the Union Jack -went up, and we moved slowly out among the shipping -of the harbour. It was a clear, beautiful evening, and -the water lay like an immense mirror in the sun-light; -we passed the light-house which stood at the end of the -harbour like a huge sentinel to guide the passage to the -ocean. Onward we went; shore and city faded away -and disappeared in the distance. I looked out on the -wide expanse of waters; the sea and sky were all that -could be seen now, except a few sea-gulls, which hovered -round the ship in search of an accidental crumb that -might be thrown over-board. We were fairly out at sea. -The flags were taken in, and things put in readiness for -rougher ocean life; for a time we moved on pleasantly. -Towards sun-down a head wind sprang up producing that -rocking motion of the boat that makes sea life so much -of a dread to those unaccustomed to water; at about ten -o'clock our head wind changed to a side wind, and we -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">{39}</a></span> -had what the sailors call "a chopping sea," producing a -very unpleasant motion of the boat. Previous to this the -recruits were in good spirits, but now silence reigned; I -could see them getting pale, and one by one go below. -I felt myself approaching a crisis of some kind, but was -determined to put it off as long as possible. I kept on -deck in the open air, and resolutely frowned down all -signs of rebellion in my stomach. From what I heard -going on around me, I was aware I was not the worst -sufferer; with some the agony of the contest was kept -up all night long. At three o'clock p.m., we passed Holy -Head; at five we were steaming up the Mersey, and were -landed on Liverpool Dock at six o'clock. After a run of -twelve and a half hours, here I was, standing in amazement, -looking at the forests of masts, and the vast amount -of shipping in the Docks. Liverpool is noted principally -for its shipping accommodation and fine docks; of these it -has now over eleven miles in length, all walled in, and -protected by massive gates like the locks of a canal; this -renders the shipping very secure. It is a place of great -mercantile importance and trade; the streets are continually -in a perfect jam with heavy waggons and vehicles of -almost every description. If I was astonished at the appearance -of Dublin, how much more so at this great Babel -of commerce. The sergeant took us to an eating-house, -owned by one of his acquaintances, where he ordered -breakfast, for which I believe the landlord did not make -much profit; for what with sea-sickness, and fasting since -three p.m. the day previous, I'll leave it to my reader to -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">{40}</a></span> -determine whether we were able to do justice to the landlord's -hospitality or not.</p> - -<p>We left the depôt at Liverpool about ten a.m. on the -"Great North-western Railway" for London. I am now -taking my first view of England and English scenery, -also my first ride in a railway carriage. As we passed -along, numerous towns and villages dotted the country; -multitudes of great black smoke stacks, amid splendid -steeples and church towers, side by side, rose in majesty -towards the heavens.</p> - -<p>Thus religion and industry are generally, nay always, -found in close proximity; with the smoke of the furnace -goes up the incense of worship; with the hum of machinery -is mingled the anthem of praise. The train stopped -at several stations, which were beautifully fitted up; -during the journey we frequently partook of refreshments -at the different stations. The train travelled very -fast. After a ride of one hundred and eighty miles, in -nine and a half hours, we reached London, the great metropolis -of England, and the mart of the world. We were -set down at Euston Station. Now my eyes, indeed, were -opened wide, gazing on the magnificence of the great -modern Babel of the universe. We were billeted on three -different taverns, in close proximity to each other. The -sergeant had to report himself at the "Horse Guards," -and hand over some recruits which he had for regiments -stationed at London.</p> - -<p>He left me in charge of the billet while he was gone. -We remained here five days, during which I visited a great -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">{41}</a></span> -many places. There are many wonderful things that can -be seen in a brief walk through this great metropolis, if -a man has his eyes open.</p> - -<p>I should like to have had time here to take my reader -to the top of some of the tall monuments; to walk with -him among the wondrous fortifications of "Old London -Tower," through the rooms where nobles, princes, kings, -and queens have been incarcerated; to stand with him on -"Tower Hill," where the scaffold and executioner's block -tell their dark tales of treachery and blood and murder. -I should like to go with my reader to Westminster Abbey, -a wonderful pile, a venerable old church, and the great -sepulchral home of England's honoured dead. It is worth -a journey across the Atlantic to take a stroll through its -cold, damp aisles and chapels; to stand amid its costly -monuments and mouldering dust, where death for many -long centuries has been gathering her glorious trophies, -and yet her dark garlands have been recorded and embodied -by human skill and art and genius. I have in a very -brief space brought before my readers facts and stories; -but I must defer any further description until my next -visit, for I hope to see all those wonders again. The -sergeant had done his duty to his satisfaction, and this -being our last evening in London, he took us to the Haymarket -Theatre, where we witnessed the "Colleen Bawn." -After the play was over, we took the serjeant into a -saloon close by, and treated him to oysters, beer, and -cigars, after which we went to our billets quite jolly. -Next morning, after paying the landlord and bidding him -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">{42}</a></span> -good-bye, we marched to the Waterloo Railway Station, -where we took the train at ten o'clock. After a ride of -about eighty miles, in two hours, we were in Canterbury, -and put down at St. Dunstan Street Station, marched -into barracks, and were handed over to the officer commanding -the depôt of the 17th Regiment of Foot, "The -Royal Tigers." We were told off to companies, and shown -our quarters. More about Canterbury as my story advances. -As I am now stationed here; I hope to have -an opportunity of getting acquainted with this ancient -cathedral city.</p> - -<div class="image-center"> - <img src="images/dec-2.jpg" width="150" height="52" alt="dec"/> -</div> - -<div> - -<div class="pagenum"><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">{43}</a></div> - -<div class="image-center"> - <img src="images/bar-1.jpg" width="350" height="60" alt="bar"/> -</div> - -<h2>CHAPTER V.</h2> - -<p class="header">MEDICAL EXAMINATION—RECEIVE MY KIT—DRILL, MANUAL AND -PLATOON EXERCISE—DISMISSED DRILL—VISIT THE CITY—DESCRIPTION—ROUTE—THE -MARCH.</p> - -</div> - -<div> - <img class="drop-cap" src="images/drop-t.jpg" width="51" height="80" alt="t"/> -</div> - -<p class="drop-cap"><span class="uppercase">The</span> -following morning, reveillé Sounded at Five -o'clock, when I turned out, made my bed, and was -dressed when the drill bugle sounded at half-past.</p> - -<p>Parade being formed at six by the sergeant-major, the -recruits without uniform were not required to drill that -morning; drill being over and the bugle for breakfast -sounding, we all sat down to a pound of bread and a basin -of coffee each. We were afterwards marched to the Regimental -Hospital by the orderly corporal, where we passed -another medical examination, which was final, and were -returned fit for service; we were next marched to the -quarter-master's store, and received our uniform and kit, -which consisted of one of each of the following articles, viz., -pair boots, cloth trowsers, summer trowsers, shako, tunic, -stock and clasp, shell-jacket, forage-cap, pair mits, tin -blacking, pair braces, clothes-brush, canteen and cover, -knapsack and straps, great coat and haversack, two shirts, -two pair socks, and two towels; for the marking of -which we were charged a halfpenny each. We were next -taken to the tailor's shop, where we had our clothing -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">{44}</a></span> -altered and fitted; this lasted four or five days, during -which time we were exempt from drill; but instead had to -do the duties of orderly men by turns, that is, prepare the -meals for those at drill, and keep the barrack rooms clean -and in proper order. After we got our clothing all right, -we then turned out to drill three times a day, viz., before -breakfast, club drill; ten o'clock, commanding officer's parade, -with setting up drill; afternoon, goose step, extension -and balance motions.</p> - -<p>At all these parades and drills we were minutely inspected -by the orderly sergeant, and afterwards by the -sergeant major, and if the least fault was found ordered -to parade again, which was called "a dirty parade." I -took particular pains to escape the latter.</p> - -<p>When drill commenced, we were formed into squads of -six or eight men each, in line, at arms-length apart, which -is termed a "squad with intervals;" after drilling in -single rank for a week, one squad was increased to two -ranks, at open order, the rear rank covering the intervals.</p> - -<p>The sergeant major frequently came round to each -squad, and finding a deserving recruit, sent him up to a -more advanced squad; in this way the most intelligent -and attentive recruits were advanced. I was lucky in -being one of the first sent up, and I afterwards got sent -up step by step, until I reached the advanced squad, -where I learned company's drill without arms; after -which we were served with arms, formed into squads, -taught the manual and platoon exercise, company and -battalion movements, with arms.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">{45}</a></span> -We were then put through a course of ball practice. -The distance being fifty, a hundred, hundred and fifty, -and two hundred yards; the "old Brown Bess" being in -use then. The first shot I fired I got a bull's eye, which -was reckoned a first-class shot, and the only one I got -during the practice. After we had finished the course, -we were again inspected, when we acquitted ourselves to -the entire satisfaction of the officers, and were accordingly -dismissed from recruits' drill, and returned fit for duty as -soldiers. Two days afterwards the head-quarters of the -regiment arrived from Bombay, marched into barracks, -band playing, colours flying, forming up on the barrack -square. The men were tall and soldier-like, but very -much tanned from exposure in the east. Their strength -on arrival was only five hundred.</p> - -<p>We were all delighted to meet the head-quarters, which -had been long expected. They had a long, rough voyage -of three months, having come in a sailing vessel.</p> - -<p>After they had been inspected by the commanding -officer, Colonel Pinnikuck, they were told off and shown -to their different barrack-rooms.</p> - -<p>Next day, regimental orders being issued, I heard my -name read out "Private Thomas Faughan posted to the -Grenadier or Captain L. C. Bourchier's company." I was -well pleased to hear this, it being the best company in -the regiment. The whole of the recruits were also posted -to the different service companies.</p> - -<p>Being dismissed from recruit's drill, I had ample opportunities -of walking out in the afternoons, and visiting -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">{46}</a></span> -some of the old places around the city, among which -was the cathedral, one of the oldest ecclesiastical edifices -in England.</p> - -<p>It was consecrated by Saint Augustine, A.D. 597. Here, -too, he baptized Ethelbert, King of Kent. Saint Martin's -Church under-the-hill, said to be the oldest in England, -is another time-worn structure, partly built of Roman -brick and tiles. There are fourteen such old churches -here, most of them built of rough flint, and very ancient.</p> - -<p>Also the ruins of a Norman Castle, one of the largest -in England, which stands near a mound known as the -"Dan John;" connected with this are beautiful gardens, -where the band of our 17th regiment played always on -Thursday afternoon, when hundreds of the élite of the -city assembled to promenade.</p> - -<p>This is one of the pleasantest stations in England for a -soldier; there is no garrison duty to perform, the only -duties being the regimental guards, and they come very -seldom; the men getting sixteen nights in bed between -guards.</p> - -<p>Regiments arriving from India are generally stationed -here for some time, in order to recruit after foreign service -and the long voyage.</p> - -<p>The citizens are very much attached to soldiers, and -treat them with the greatest kindness and respect. Our -regiment was not fortunate enough to be left here much -longer, for a letter of "readiness" was received by the -commanding officer, directing him to hold the regiment -ready to proceed to Dover at the shortest notice, which -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">{47}</a></span> -he made known to us in regimental orders that evening. -After this order was read we were all on the alert, officers -and men preparing for the march, packing officers' and -mess baggage, whitewashing and cleansing barracks—to -save barrack damages, that great curse—ready to hand -over to the barrack master.</p> - -<p>Accordingly the route came, which was read as follows, -viz.:—</p> - -<div class="letter"> - -<div class="centerltr">"<span class="smcap">Regimental Orders,</span></div> - -<div class="centerltr"><span class="smcap">By Lieut-Colonel Pinnikuck.</span></div> - -<div class="right1"><span class="smcap">Canterbury Barracks</span>, Sept. 20th, 1847.</div> - -<p>Agreeably to a Route received this day from Horse Guards, the -Regiment will parade in heavy marching order, at eight o'clock, -A.M., on Tuesday next, the 24th instant, for the purpose of proceeding -to Dover, there to be stationed till further orders. The -men will breakfast at 7 o'clock on that day.</p> - -<div class="centerltr">By Order,</div> - -<div class="right2">(Signed), Lieut. <span class="smcap">Codd</span>,</div> - -<div class="right1"><i>Acting Adjutant 17th Regiment</i>."</div> - -</div> - -<p>The following morning inspection of kits, at ten o'clock, -by the commanding officer, ordered, and afterwards medical -inspection. Next day being Sunday, the regiment -paraded at ten o'clock, for divine service, when we all -marched to church, with the band playing; Protestants -and Roman Catholics going to their different places of -worship, no other denomination being recognised in the -regiment.</p> - -<p>The barracks were inspected on Monday morning, by -the quarter-master and captains of companies; the afternoon -was occupied in loading the baggage waggons.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">{48}</a></span> -Tuesday, Sept. 24th, the regiment was on parade, -ready to fall in, when the officers' and non-commissioned -officers' call sounded; the latter, forming in line, were -minutely inspected by the adjutant, accompanied by the -sergeant-major, at the same time collecting the reports -from the orderly-sergeants, after which the companies -formed on the coverers, right in front.</p> - -<p>The rolls being called, the captains inspected their companies, -that being finished, the colonel gave the commands, -"eyes front, steady, fix bayonets, shoulder arms, left -wheel into line, quick march, halt, dress." Then the adjutant -galloped down the front, collecting the reports, saluting -the colonel as he reported "all correct, Colonel!" -"Form fours, right, quick march;" when the whole stepped -off, the band at the same time striking up "Auld Lang -Syne;" marched out of barracks, down north gate, and up -High Street, accompanied by such a crowd of citizens, -that it is easier to imagine than describe. After marching -through the principal streets, the music changed to "The -Girl I Left Behind Me," of the latter there were quite a few -followed us outside the town; when the order was given -"unfix bayonets, march at ease." The latter order being -quickly obeyed (for we had quite a load on our backs, having -the whole of our kit in our knapsacks), we were allowed -to sing, chat, and laugh to shorten the journey. After we -had got to the half-way house we halted, piled arms, and -were allowed to go into the hotel for refreshments. When -we were well rested and refreshed (thanks to the landlord, -who had everything we needed ready), the march commenced -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">{49}</a></span> -again, and we accomplished the journey of sixteen -miles in eight hours, in heavy marching order. On arrival -in Dover, at four o'clock p.m., the left wing were stationed -at the castle, and right, with head-quarters, at the -heights.</p> - -<div class="image-center"> - <img src="images/dec-3.jpg" width="100" height="69" alt="dec"/> -</div> - -<div> - -<div class="pagenum"><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">{50}</a></div> - -<div class="image-center"> - <img src="images/bar-1.jpg" width="350" height="60" alt="bar"/> -</div> - -<h2>CHAPTER VI.</h2> - -<p class="header">ARRIVAL AT DOVER—FIRST GUARD—THE DEAD HOUSE—GHOST—THE -HEIGHTS—SHAFT—FORTIFICATIONS—MARCHING OUT—CHARTIST -RIOTS—TRAIN TO LONDON—DEPARTURE—OSBORNE HOUSE—MAIN -DOCK—ROUTE TO CHATHAM—SIEGE—SHAM FIGHT.</p> - -</div> - -<div> - <img class="drop-cap" src="images/drop-o.jpg" width="66" height="80" alt="o"/> -</div> - -<p class="drop-cap"><span class="uppercase">On</span> -the arrival in barracks, the companies were shown -their respective quarters, when we soon divested -ourselves of our knapsacks and accoutrements; orderly -men were told off to draw rations and prepare supper, while -the remainder went to fill their beds with straw at the -barrack stores; cleaning arms and accoutrements occupied -the remainder of the evening. We were exempt -from drill the following day, in order to get our barracks -and appointments thoroughly clean after the march.</p> - -<p>It was now getting near my turn for guard, and it being -my first, I was determined to turn out in a soldier-like -manner, with my appointments clean and shining. -Accordingly I was detailed for the western redoubt, which -furnishes a sentry over the garrison hospital, that stands -on the middle of a common, on the top of the Western -Heights above the barracks, and a quarter of a mile from -any house or habitation.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">{51}</a></span> -After mounting guard I was in the first relief, and my -post was at the hospital; on receiving my orders from the -corporal he directed my attention to the dead house, -where, laid out on a table, was a body I was to keep the -rats from gnawing. The corporal having posted me at -eleven o'clock that night, all the ghost stories I had heard -in the "potheen still house" in Leitrim, came up in my -mind as flush as when they were told. While I was -thinking, I heard a noise, looked round, and saw a man -dressed in white standing at the door of the dead house. -I tried to challenge, but my tongue was tied. I felt paralyzed. -I scrambled along the walk to the front of the -hospital, knocking at the door, when the sergeant came -out and said, "what is the matter, sentry?" "Oh!" said I, -"there's a man, dressed in white, at the 'Dead House.'"</p> - -<p>He went back for an orderly, saying something incoherent, -when both went round to the dead house, -and there they found everything as they had left it. -The sergeant called me a fool, and threatened to report -me for leaving my post; this stirred me up, and I walked -up and down briskly the remainder of the two hours -which appeared the longest I ever passed in my life. I -said nothing of the occurrence to the men on guard lest -they might laugh at me.</p> - -<p>Our guard being relieved, we were marched to barracks, -inspected by the orderly officer, and dismissed. The -sergeant, however, did not report me as he had threatened; -whether he forgot or not I did not try to find out. The -garrison consisted of two batteries royal artillery, one on -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">{52}</a></span> -the heights, and the other at the castle, a company of -sappers and miners, besides our own regiment.</p> - -<p>The troops had many guards to furnish, consequently -the men got only five nights in bed between duty; besides, -fatigue parties were many and laborious, on account of -so much uphill work; the water supplied to the garrison -was brought up from a well over three hundred feet deep, -by means of a wheel which took four men to work, they -being relieved every two hours.</p> - -<p>The heights on which the barracks stand are three -hundred and eighty feet above the level of the sea. A -deep perpendicular shaft, containing about four hundred -steps of winding-stairs, leads from town to the barracks on -the heights, which tries the men's wind coming up at -tattoo, and at other times when on fatigue.</p> - -<p>The garrison is well fortified, and comprises "Dover -Castle," which occupies a commanding position on the -chalk cliffs, about 380 feet above the level of the sea, -and in the construction of which, Saxons and Normans -displayed no small amount of ingenuity; the Western -Heights, Fort Burgoyne, the south Front Bastion, the -Drop Redoubt, the Citadel, the western outworks, and -the north Centre Bastion, with Queen Anne's Pocket -Piece on the Castle heights. The harbour is well sheltered -by the chalk cliffs, which end landwards, in a charming -valley leading to what is known as the "Garden of -Kent." During the winter our regiment marched into -the country in heavy marching order twice a week, when -we generally went ten to twelve miles on each occasion, -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">{53}</a></span> -and not unfrequently encountering a snow or rain storm, -returning literally covered with mud, the roads being so -sloppy. These marches, with piquets, fatigues, and -guards, kept us busily employed. About the end of -March there was great excitement in London over the -"Chartists," who were expected to break out in open -revolt. The colonel got private notification that most -likely the regiment would be ordered to London. We -were therefore expecting an order to proceed thither to -quell the riot which was daily expected. Our expectations -were realized, for on the sixth of April, 1848, we -got the route to proceed to London by rail, on the 9th instant, -there to be stationed till further orders. When -this order was given, there was great excitement in barracks -preparing for the journey; we had only two days -to pack and get the baggage to the station; however, -many hands made light work, and we had all the baggage -down at the station and everything in readiness on -the evening previous to our departure. On the 9th, we -were on parade at seven o'clock, a.m., in heavy marching -order, the companies told off and all reported present, -when the colonel gave the command—"quarter distance -column on the grenadiers, quick march," each captain -halting his respective company as it came into its place. -He then addressed the men, urging them when in London -to uphold the credit of their old corps, &c., after which -he gave the command "to the right face," when each captain -gave the command to his company, "quick march," -the companies stepping off in succession, each company -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">{54}</a></span> -wheeling to the left down the shaft. On arriving at the -bottom the band struck up "The British Grenadiers;" -we marched to the station (accompanied by a large concourse -of the townspeople), where a special train was in -readiness to convey us to London. As we went on the -train the band played "Auld Lang Syne," and "The Girl -I Left Behind Me." One hour-and-a-half afterwards we -were marching four deep with fixed bayonets, from the -Dover and Chatham Station to Millbank Prison. The -streets were so crowded that we had great difficulty in -reaching our destination. On arrival, we were shown into -two large rooms, one for each wing, with a straw mattress -on trestles for each man.</p> - -<p>The following morning, April 10th, 1848, an order had -arrived from the Duke of Wellington, Commander-in-Chief, -to hold the troops in readiness to march to Kennington -Common, where the Chartists had intended assembling -in large numbers to march through London to -the House of Commons carrying a petition embodying -their demands.</p> - -<p>This was to be presented by Fergus O'Connor, one of -the members for Nottingham.</p> - -<p>The Londoners, to the number of a quarter of a million, -enrolled themselves as special constables; the Chartists -were not allowed to march in procession, and the whole -affair passed off quietly, without bloodshed.</p> - -<p>The troops which the Duke had posted ready, when -called on, out of sight, were not required. Our regiment -with several others, and a few troops of cavalry, were -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">{55}</a></span> -under arms the whole day in rear of the prison, ready to -advance at the shortest notice.</p> - -<p>While here we were not allowed to go through the city -on account of the unsettled state of society; we were -supplied with beer inside, the orderly sergeants of companies -serving it out in our mess tins.</p> - -<p>The troops which had been concentrated in London, -from different parts of England on this emergency were -now ordered to return; some to their former stations, -others to fresh ones; our regiment was ordered to proceed -to Portsmouth.</p> - -<p>The troops had a very smart, soldierly appearance; such -a large number of cavalry and infantry emerging from -their different quarters through the streets, bands playing, -quite astonished the citizens as they marched to their -destinations.</p> - -<p>Our march was to the London and South-western Railway -Station, where we took the train at ten o'clock, a.m., -for Portsmouth, arriving there at twelve o'clock, a distance -of seventy-five miles in two hours.</p> - -<p>We were marched to Colworth and Clarence barracks, -there to be stationed till further orders.</p> - -<p>General Orders issued soon after our arrival, by Lord -Frederick Fitzclarence, commanding the troops in garrison; -the 17th Regiment was taken on the strength of -the garrison, and detailed to furnish the following duties: -main guard, Southsea Castle, Landport Rablin, and the -main and lower dock-yard. The guards with the colours -of the regiment that furnishes the main are trooped -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">{56}</a></span> -every day at ten o'clock on the Grand Esplanade (Sundays -and wet days excepted). I was detailed for the main -guard, which consists of one captain, one subaltern, one -sergeant, two corporals, and twenty-four privates; my -post being on the ramparts, in the rear of the guard-house, -where I had a fine view of the harbour, the roadstead of -Spithead, and the Isle of Wight, on the coast of which -the walls of the Royal residence at Osborne House are -seen sparkling among the trees. I had been well broken -in to sentry duty by this time, and was not so easily -frightened at my post now, as when I was watching the -corpse at Dover hospital.</p> - -<p>Numbers of nobility and gentry assemble to witness -the trooping, and to see the main guard relieved. The -following day, after being relieved, general field day of -the troops in garrison was ordered to assemble on Southsea -Common, under the command of General Fitzclarence. -These reviews were once a week. My next guard was the -"main dock," it is also a captain's guard of great responsibility; -sentries are very strict on their posts, being furnished -with "countersign," "number," and "parole," no -person is allowed to pass a post without being able to -give them to the sentry. There are a great many mechanics -and labourers employed here; it is at present -two hundred and ninety-three acres in extent—one of the -largest in the country. Of this immense naval establishment, -the most noteworthy, if not the most recent, features -are, the mast and rope houses, hemp stores, rigging-stores, -sail-loft, and the dry docks, spacious enough -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">{57}</a></span> -to admit the largest vessels, and offering every facility for -their speedy repair: of the various building-slips, one of -them, roofed and covered in, is so large that three or four -vessels can be in process of construction at the same time. -When Queen Victoria and Prince Albert opened a new -basin in those docks in 1848, our grenadier company -formed a guard of honour to Her Majesty and the Prince. -We also formed a guard of honour on the occasion of -Her Majesty and Prince Albert landing at Gosport the -same year, when they inspected our company and complimented -Captain Bourchier on the clean, soldier-like -appearance of his company. I remember Prince Albert -perfectly well; he was dressed in a Field Marshal's uniform, -with a broad blue silk sash over his left shoulder. He -was the finest looking man I ever saw—he must have been -six feet four inches in height. The dock-yard also contains -the residence of the superintending officers and a -school of naval architecture.</p> - -<p>This is a very lively town; the public houses are well -patronised by soldiers and sailors; we liked the station -very much, although the guards came often; we bathed -once a week on the beach of Southsea common, which is -now a fashionable watering place—a band plays here once -a week in the afternoon. After we were here six months -we got the route to proceed to Chatham, where we arrived -on the 18th October, and were stationed in Chatham -barracks. If Portsmouth was a strict garrison, this is -much stricter—there are so many recruits here belonging -to regiments in India. They are formed into what is -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">{58}</a></span> -called a provisional battalion. We were looked to as an -example for the recruits. Here the dock-yard duty is -carried on much the same as at Portsmouth, with a little -more humbugging.</p> - -<p>We were employed here a good deal in preparing for a -siege operation at Saint Mary's Barracks, above Brompton, -in building a stockade, and throwing up earthworks -and trenches; in the summer we had a grand sham-fight, -the troops being formed into two armies, one attacking, -the other defending. We were practising for this siege -for over two months previously, carrying scaling ladders -and moving round with them to the ditches of the fortification; -it was very fatiguing work. After we were well -practised, and everything in readiness, the grand day -came off on the Queen's birthday, 1849, when over ten -thousand people were present, most of whom came down -from London to witness this grand sham-fight. It came -off splendidly, when all returned home well pleased.</p> - -<div class="image-center"> - <img src="images/dec-3.jpg" width="100" height="69" alt="dec"/> -</div> - -<div> - -<div class="pagenum"><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">{59}</a></div> - -<div class="image-center"> - <img src="images/bar-3.jpg" width="350" height="60" alt="bar"/> -</div> - -<h2>CHAPTER VII.</h2> - -<p class="header">ROUTE TO CANTERBURY—THE MARCH—ARRIVAL—CHATHAM—DOCKYARD—FURLOUGH -TO LONDON—THAT GREAT CITY—JOIN MY COMPANY—SHEERNESS—THE -DOCKYARD—GET MARRIED—ROUTE TO -WEEDON—ROUTE TO IRELAND.</p> - -</div> - -<div> - <img class="drop-cap" src="images/drop-a.jpg" width="64" height="80" alt="a"/> -</div> - -<p class="drop-cap"><span class="uppercase">A few</span> -days afterwards we got the route for Canterbury. -On June 2nd we marched from Chatham -up High Street, with the band playing at the head -of the regiment. We were accompanied by a large crowd -of the townspeople outside the town, who gave us three -cheers on parting; we marched ten miles that day, and -were billeted in the pretty little village of Greenstreet -where the people treated us with the greatest kindness -and regard.</p> - -<p>Resuming the march at seven o'clock the following -morning, we arrived at Canterbury at twelve, where we -were met by several of our old acquaintances, who were -pleased to see us back again, and accompanied us to the -barracks. During our stay here of three months we had -easy times, getting sixteen nights in bed, hardly any fatigues, -but plenty of drill. On the 5th September, -1849, we marched back again to Chatham, arriving there -at 5 p.m. on the 6th, after two days hard marching with -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">{60}</a></span> -a full kit weighing fifty pounds. The march tired many -of our men, the weather being very sultry and the roads -dusty.</p> - -<p>The fortified lines around Chatham are the frequent -scenes of military siege-operations, miniature battles, and -grand reviews.</p> - -<p>In a military point of view the lines of detached forts -connecting constitute a fortification of great strength, -and the whole is regarded as a perfect flank defence for -London in the event of an invader seeking to attack the -capital from the south coast; the place is also defended -by some strong forts on the Medway.</p> - -<p>Near Chatham is Fort Pitt, a military hospital and -strong fort, barracks for infantry, marines, artillery and -engineers, a park of artillery and magazines, storehouse -and depôt on a large scale. In a naval sense, it is -one of the principal royal shipbuilding establishments in -Great Britain, and a visit to it never fails to impress the -stranger with a sense of the naval power of the country. -The dock-yard is nearly two miles in length, containing -several building-slips and wet docks sufficiently capacious -for the largest ships, and the whole is traversed in -every direction by a tramway for locomotives. There are -on an average, 3,500 shipwrights, caulkers, joiners, sawyers, -mill-wrights, sail-makers, rope-makers, riggers and -labourers, with 5,000 soldiers, sailors and marines, making -it lively for public-houses and saloons, which are always -crowded with soldiers and sailors in the evenings.</p> - -<p>About the middle of December, I applied to the captain -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">{61}</a></span> -of my company for a furlough; having no offence against -me since joining, he had no trouble in getting it granted. -I had saved most of my pay since I joined, and now had -sufficient funds, with the amount allowed me from the -captain in advance, to bear my expenses during my absence -from the regiment; and as all my near relatives in -Leitrim were either dead or had emigrated to America, I -had no particular place to spend my furlough, and being -stationed so near London, I made up my mind to visit -that great city, and avail myself of the opportunity of -visiting once more at my leisure some of the principal -places of note and amusement. My furlough was dated -from 16th December, and expired 16th January. I left -the Sun Pier at Chatham, by a penny steamboat to Stroud -Station, thence by rail to Gravesend, and boat to Blackwall; -from there by rail to Fenchurch, where I took an -omnibus to Cambden-Hill-Villa, Kensington, where I -stayed on invitation with a friend during my sojourn in -London. During my ride through the city on the outside -of the omnibus, I had a splendid view of the perfect -labyrinth of streets and squares, warehouses and stores, -churches and palaces, which I strongly recommend all -strangers in London to see. Here I am riding through the -vast metropolis of England, where nearly four millions of -people of all classes, grades, and conditions, find a home; -a city that covers eighty thousand acres of ground; where -is consumed fifty-five million gallons of beer and porter, -with three million gallons of ardent spirits, annually -poured out to satisfy unnatural and voracious appetites. -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">{62}</a></span> -It takes thirty thousand tailors to make their clothes, -forty thousand shoemakers to take care of their feet, and -fifty thousand milliners and dressmakers to attend to -the ladies' dresses; here an army of twenty-five thousand -servants are daily employed, and the smoke of the coal-fires -darkens the country for more than twenty miles -around. The splendour of the magnificent buildings and -shops, carriages, cabs, omnibuses, and vehicles of every -description, with crowds of pedestrians, impressed me -with surprise beyond my powers of description. I got -off at Silver Street after paying the conductor six-pence -for my fare, and walked to my friend's house, where I -was received in a most cordial manner. During my stay -in London I visited many of the principal places of interest -in the city, among which were the following, viz.: -St. James' Palace, an irregular cluster of buildings used -for court purposes, but not as the Queen's residence; -Buckingham Palace, the Queen's London residence, a -large quadrangular building; Marlborough House, now -the residence of the Prince of Wales; Kensington Palace -and Gardens; Houses of Parliament, a vast structure -which has cost £3,000,000, perhaps the finest building in -the world applied to national purposes—the river front is -900 feet long; Westminster Hall, a noble old structure, -of which the main hall is 290 feet by 68, and 110 feet -high; the Horse Guards, the official residence of the -Commander-in-Chief, with an arched entrance to St. -James' Park, where under the arches on each side are two -noble specimens of mounted sentries; the National Gallery -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">{64}</a></span> -devoted to a portion of the nation's pictures, in -Trafalgar Square; South Kensington Museum; the Guards -Barracks, Chelsea; the General Post Office, which has a -hall 80 feet by 60, and 53 high, with a vast number of offices -all around it.</p> - -<div class="image-center"> - <img src="images/pl-063.jpg" width="500" height="359" alt="pl-063"/> - <div class="caption"> - <p class="small">THE THAMES EMBANKMENT.</p> - </div> -</div> - -<p>Of public columns and statues the chief which interested -me and took my attention were the following:—Nelson's -Column, Trafalgar Square; and York Column, -Waterloo Steps.<span -class="fnanchor"><a name="Ref_1" id="Ref_1" href="#Foot_1">[1]</a></span></p> - -<p>Of the public parks in the Metropolis, the most important -are Hyde Park, St. James' Park, the Green Park, Regent's -Park, Victoria Park, Kensington Park—all belong to the -nation, and are, of course, out of the builders' hands. -They are most valuable as "lungs" and breathing places for -great London.</p> - -<p>The Zoological Gardens, Horticultural Gardens, and Botanic -Gardens are beautiful places, belonging to private -societies. Of places of amusements, there are three opera -houses, about thirty theatres, twelve music halls and concert -rooms of large dimensions (including Albert Hall), a -much larger number of smaller size, and very numerous -exhibition rooms of various kinds, including Madame Tussaud's -exhibition of wax figures, in Baker Street; these -greatly interested and amused me.</p> - -<p>I must not forget my leave is nearly up; my furlough -expires to-morrow night at tattoo. Also, I am sorry I cannot -stay longer, time seems so short and flies so fast in -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">{65}</a></span> -this great city, but as a soldier I must never forget my -duty.</p> - -<p>After bidding my friend good-bye, and thanking him -kindly for his generous hospitality, I started back to join -my regiment at Chatham, by the same route I had come, -arriving in barracks at tattoo, January 16th, and duly reporting -myself.</p> - -<p>Whilst I had been on leave, my company (the grenadiers) -were under orders for detachment at Sheerness. -Accordingly we embarked at the Sun Pier, and proceeded -down the Medway, by steamer, on the 8th February, arriving -at our destination at two p.m., commanded by Captain -L. G. Bourchier, and were stationed in the same barracks -as the 72nd Highlanders, whose pipers kept playing and -droning from reveillé till tattoo. This is also another -of England's Royal ship-building establishments; there are -nearly two thousand artisans and labourers employed daily -in the dockyard. The streets, public houses, and concert -rooms are continually, unfortunately, crowded with sailors, -soldiers, marines, and dockyard hands, every evening; and -not unfrequently a bar-room row takes place between -the soldiers and sailors; on one occasion I saw two of our -tallest and ablest grenadiers peel off their coats and clean -out a whole tap-room of sailors, and that with their -English fists.</p> - -<p>On our last visit to Canterbury, what did I do but, like -an Irishman, fall in love. I made the acquaintance of a -Kentish beauty and promised to marry her, with the -understanding that I got the commanding officer's sanction -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">{66}</a></span> -in order to carry out this promise, after our company -had been here about a month, I applied to the -colonel, of course through the captain of my company, -for leave to get married, which was granted, through the -strong recommendation and influence of my captain; for -my readers must know that it is only a very small proportion -of soldiers (six to each company), and those only -of the best character and highly recommended, can get -leave to marry; or if they marry without leave, they -have no claim to participate in any of the advantages and -privileges attached to the soldier who marries with leave—such -as quarters in barracks and on foreign stations, -"rations." Having received the commanding officer's -permission, I was married, on the 3rd of April, 1850, at -Minster, in the Isle of Sheppy, Kent. My wife then was -placed on the strength of the regiment from that date. -Now my happiness was complete. I was struck out of -the barrack-room messing, and my wife and I became -truly happy together. Instead of walking down the town -with my comrades, I walked out with my wife in the -evening on the ramparts in the rear of our quarters, and -gazed in wonder at the massive fortifications and guns -which encircled our barracks. Here we could hear the -soft strains of exquisite music from the various military -bands of marines, or the regiments in garrison, or, more -frequently, the pipers of the 72nd Highlanders, or the -sound of the evening gun re-echo over the surface of the -waters from the flag-ship which rode so majestically at -anchor in the distant roadsteads, with the sun sinking -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">{67}</a></span> -into an ocean of fire, and the white sails of the fishing -smacks glistening in the setting sun. We had been for -some time fearing to be relieved from this delightful -station; at length the long expected order came. The -rumours which had been for some time gathering strength -as to our destination were discovered to have had a better -foundation than many which in general floated indefinitely -about our barracks, on the subject of which no one ever -could discover their origin, for, you must know, soldiers -are great gossipers.</p> - -<p>Our orders are for Weedon, a small town in Northamptonshire, -on the River Nene. In three days we were -to embark on board a steamer for London, thence by rail. -We were all rather sorry for leaving the present station, -although soldiers always like fresh scenery, and always -play, when they leave, "The Girl I left Behind Me."</p> - -<p>We embarked on the 18th of May, accompanied by the -band, pipes, and several men, of the 72nd Highlanders to -the wharf, the band playing "Auld Lang Syne" as our -steamer moved off from the dock, the men cheering and -waving their handkerchiefs, which we responded to in a -most friendly manner. We were all very happy, though we -were rather closely packed together—a circumstance -generally considered dangerous to a good fellowship. The -vessel was a small one, and being of rather ancient build -did not boast all those conveniences that the new steamers -possess. The voyage was a short one; the river being -very smooth; the trip was pleasant, although it was somewhat -inconvenient for the women and children, who were -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">{68}</a></span> -huddled up very close together. We were lucky that the -weather was so fine, therefore we had not the unpleasantness -of sea sickness.</p> - -<p>As we neared London, steamers and vessels of nearly -every size became more numerous; and the buzz of -industry from the shore, with the whistling of small steamers, -the splashing of wheels, the clouds of smoke, impressed -us with the wondrous amount of traffic carried on -through this mighty highway of commerce.</p> - -<p>We reached Blackwall at one o'clock, and marched to -Euston Station, the women and children being sent in cabs, -where we took the train at three p.m., arriving at Weedon -at 5 p.m., marched into barracks and joined head-quarters -which had been there before us. About this time -Colonel Styte got command of the regiment, an old -Waterloo officer of great skill in military details. The -Town of Weedon, which is situated in the centre of a wide -and rich valley in one of the most beautiful counties in -England, was declared by all our soldiers, without -one dissentient voice, to be an exceedingly dull, stupid -place. Not having much duty to perform in this quiet garrison, -we were kept continually at drill; in the evenings -the men had nothing to occupy their spare time except to -assemble in the public houses or canteen, and on Sunday, -after church, to walk out of town to a certain country -tavern where they unfortunately used to indulge in drinking -and carousing. In the days in which I write, those -who entertained the idea of educating soldiers were -laughed at as visionary enthusiasts, whose schemes, if put -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">{69}</a></span> -into practice, would entirely ruin and destroy the military -spirit of the army; and few there were among the commanding -officers of regiments who possessed moral courage -enough to combat the general opinion, even if they differed -from the principle. Colonel Styte, however, the lieutenant-colonel -of the 17th regiment of "Royal Tigers," was happily -endowed with moral courage in equal degree with -his gallantry in the field, which secured for him his present -high position, and an honesty of mind and purpose he -possessed that was not usual with officers of his time. -He had received a wound at the Battle of Waterloo in -his right arm, which entirely disabled it, and it hung -down by his side quite powerless. Not being able to -draw his sword, we had great sympathy for him, which -he appreciated very much. He had established an evening -school for the drummer boys of the regiment, and for such -of the non-commissioned officers and privates as chose to -avail themselves of its advantage. The colonel and a few -of his brother officers raised a subscription in order to -provide the necessary books, and a school was established -and well attended, with most excellent results—valued by -many of the best disposed non-commissioned officers and -men, and worked exceedingly well. Regarding the drummer -boys, their attendance was compulsory. The teacher -was a very gentlemanly, able man, and imparted his instructions -in a very painstaking manner, which caused -many of the young soldiers to attend his school willingly, -and try to advance themselves by his instructions.</p> - -<p>Nothing in the regiment gave me more pleasure than -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">{70}</a></span> -attending, and the progress I made during our term -served to advance my prospects of promotion in after -years, which I most gratefully remember.</p> - -<p>We were stationed in this quiet town for three months -when we got orders to proceed to Castlebar, a town in -the west of Ireland, and about one hundred and sixty -miles from Dublin.</p> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p class="nodent"><a name="Foot_1" id="Foot_1" href="#Ref_1">[1]</a> -The Albert Memorial, Hyde Park, has been erected since.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="image-center"> - <img src="images/dec-3.jpg" width="100" height="69" alt="dec"/> -</div> - -<div> - -<div class="pagenum"><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">{71}</a></div> - -<div class="image-center"> - <img src="images/bar-4.jpg" width="350" height="60" alt="bar"/> -</div> - -<h2>CHAPTER VIII.</h2> - -<p class="header">LIVERPOOL—EMBARK FOR DUBLIN—THE VOYAGE—ARRIVAL—MARCH—THE -TRAIN—THE MARCH TO CASTLEBAR—ARRIVAL—ELECTION—ROUTE -TO GALWAY.</p> - -</div> - -<div> - <img class="drop-cap" src="images/drop-m.jpg" width="73" height="80" alt="m"/> -</div> - -<p class="drop-cap"><span class="uppercase">May</span> -9th, 1850.—The regiment was formed on the -barrack square, right in front, marched to the -railway station, the band playing at the head of the -regiment, accompanied by a large number of the townspeople, -with whom we were popular, and who gave us -three hearty cheers as the train moved from the station -at 10 o'clock a.m. During the journey the train stopped -sufficiently long enough at different stations to enable us -to partake of refreshments.</p> - -<p>Arriving in Liverpool at 4.30, formed up at the station -and marched through the main street down to the docks, -with fixed bayonets, the band playing "British Grenadiers," -where we embarked at 5.30 p.m. At six o'clock -the steamer moved off slowly from the dock, the band -playing "Come back to Erin" when we were cheered by -the crowd from the quay.</p> - -<p>We had a remarkable fine passage, although the boat -rolled and pitched a good deal with the long swell from -south-west, and we suffered but little discomfort beyond -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">{72}</a></span> -what invariably attends 900 men, 40 women and children -who are imprisoned for the time being, with the fear of -being drowned. Several of the women and children -were sea-sick; but as for the men, their will conquered -their stomach, and they were not sick, although many of -them looked very pale and squeamish. Hoping to enter -port in the morning, I was early on deck; we were -already in sight of land; on the right the long low line of -the Irish coast was visible scarcely raised above the level -of the sea. Not far ahead the outline and prominent feature -of the Hill of Howth stood out before us on the right -with its light-house; my heart beat high with joy as my -eye caught the first glimpse of the land of my birth, "my -own native land."</p> - -<p>The city, that at first looked like a white line on the -coast, began apparently to lift itself upwards and assume -definite form and shape, the houses and spires standing -out more distinctly. On the left we saw Kingston, with -the grand Wicklow mountains in the background completing -the picture,—indeed the Bay of Kingston is said -to be one of the most beautiful in the world. Now we -pass the lighthouse on the left, which stands at the end -of a long pier at the entrance of the bay, close to the -Pigeon House, where there are strong fortifications. We -are moving up slowly among the shipping, arriving at -the north-wall at six o'clock a.m. The order was given -to disembark immediately, when huge swarms of red -coats assembled on deck, buzzed and bustled about, -actively preparing to disembark in good order, and fall -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">{73}</a></span> -in by companies on the quay. On the bugle sounding -the whole fell in, and were inspected by the Colonel. All -being correct, we marched off by fours with fixed bayonets -and band playing, along the Liffy to the Western -Railway station, "Broadstone," accompanied by an immense -crowd of spectators. We took the train at eight -o'clock for Mullingar, arriving there at ten—sixty miles -in two hours—and were billeted on the taverns and -public houses. Previous to being dismissed we were -formed up at quarter distance column, in front of the principal -hotel, Mr. Murray's, where the Colonel stayed, when he -charged the men to conduct themselves in their billets in a -soldierlike manner, and never bring discredit on the corps -through their misconduct among the inhabitants; non-commissioned -officers were ordered especially to look after -the men's interests, and call the roll at tattoo: he at the -same time ordered parade with arms and accoutrements -at five o'clock p.m., after which the men were marched to -their different billets by their respective non-commissioned -officers, where we were received with "ceade-mille-failtha" -by the landlords, who had dinner ready for us in right -Irish fashion, according to instructions received from the -"Billet-master." After dinner we were employed in getting -our appointments clean and ready for parade. At -the appointed time the regiment paraded at the former -place, rolls called, and companies inspected by their respective -captains. During the parade, the bands "discoursed -sweet music" in front of the hotel. After the -reports were collected, and all reported present by the -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">{74}</a></span> -Adjutant, the Colonel gave the command, "fix bayonets, -shoulder arms, left wheel into line, quick march, halt, -dress," the Major giving the word "steady," when the line -was dressed; after which the Colonel opened the ranks -and inspected the whole line (the band playing during -the inspection), breaking into open column right in front, -and then dismissed.</p> - -<p>A large crowd of town and country people were looking -on in amazement; one would have thought they -never saw a regiment on parade before, their admiration -was so great.</p> - -<p>After going to our billets, the men dressed for the -evening in their shell-jackets, forage-caps, and waist-belts, -cane in hand, and were soon scattered in all directions -among the civilians, who soon made their acquaintance, -and pledged their fellowship with creature comforts -in the public houses.</p> - -<p>"Reveillé" sounded at five o'clock, when we were on the -alert, got breakfast at six, and were on parade at seven. -After the companies were inspected, the Colonel again addressed -them, telling the men the consequence and penalty -of getting drunk on the line of march; after which he -sent off the advanced guard, and told off the rear and baggage -guards. The women, with their children, that could -not afford a side-car, had to ride on the baggage waggon. -After these preliminary arrangements were made, we -marched off, the band playing "Patrick's Day;" the people -gave three cheers on parting. After we got well out -of town, we were allowed to march at ease, talk, smoke, -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">{75}</a></span> -and sing. We were quite fresh on starting, but after we -had accomplished about five or six miles we began to feel -the weight of a full kit, arms, accoutrements, haversack -and sixty rounds of ammunition in our pouches, with a -thick, stiff leather stock, and coatee buttoned up tight -around our neck, with a heavy shacko. The weather being -warm and roads dusty, we began to get somewhat tired -and thirsty. We were halted close to a small village, -where we procured some buttermilk from the peasants, -who gave it willingly. I went into a house and asked for -a drink of water, when the old woman brought me a -large noggin of buttermilk, saying, "Dhrink this acushla, -it's bether nar cauld wather for ye on the road." I offered -her some coppers, but she refused, saying, "No, I thank -you, sur; do you think I would take pay from a poor sojer -for a drop o' buttermilk? the sorrow bit thin; I wish it -was bether, it's myself that would give it ye."</p> - -<p>After getting refreshed we started on again; we had -nine miles more to march before we got to Ballymore, -where we were to be billeted for the night; we had frequent -halts for a few moments at a time, during the remaining -nine miles, when the people brought us noggins -of buttermilk. As we resumed the march, the band -struck up "Patrick's Day," which well repaid the people -for the buttermilk, and several of them accompanied us -for miles along the road.</p> - -<p>Arrived at Ballymore at two o'clock, when we were -told off to our respective billets. This is a very wretched -small town, with only three public houses; most of the -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">{76}</a></span> -men were billeted in private houses, the poor people were -hard pressed to find room for us, but we were tired and -not very particular, as long as we got some place to -stretch ourselves. After arriving at our billets, dinner, -such as they had, was ready for us; tea and coffee there -was none, but instead there was an abundance of bacon, -cabbage, and potatoes, which we washed down with -plenty of new milk. After satisfying the cravings of the -inner man with these substantials, we felt we should like -to try a drop of good Irish whiskey, made up a subscription -and sent our host out for the "crater." After partaking -of this luxury, so long unknown, in which the landlord -joined in a sociable manner, we turned out for -parade, when we were inspected by captains of companies -and dismissed.</p> - -<p>We had supper at six, oat-cakes, potato-cakes, and -new milk, and soon after we were in the land of dreams, -well tired from our march. Reveillé was sounded at five -next morning, arousing the hitherto quiet village, when -we were all on the alert; got breakfast of bacon, eggs, -potatoes and milk, falling in for parade at seven, marching -off with the band playing "Patrick's Day," which -caused the people to shout and cheer. After a long march -of sixteen miles we reached Athlone at two o'clock, dismissed -to our billets, where dinner was ready according -to instructions received in advance.</p> - -<p>My wife fared much better to-day than yesterday. I -had procured for her a seat on a side-car with the hospital -serjeant's wife, by paying half the expense of the car. -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">{77}</a></span> -This is a good sized town, large barracks and strongly-fortified, -on the Shannon, dividing Leinster from Connaught. -We fared well here and got good billets. To-morrow -will be Sunday; we will halt. We were allowed to indulge -in a good sleep on Sunday morning, nothing to do -before ten o'clock, only to get breakfast of ham and eggs; -church parade in front of O'Rourk's hotel, where we were -inspected and marched off to our different places of worship, -the band playing, causing great crowds of people to -assemble and accompany us to church. After dinner the -men walked out in full dress; there were crowds of people -and plenty of whiskey drunk during the day and -night; great excitement to see so many soldiers in the -town. At tattoo that night one corporal and six privates -were confined, the corporal for being drunk, and the -privates for minor offences. In the morning the six privates -were reprimanded, and the corporal sent back for a -court-martial on arrival at Castlebar.</p> - -<p>We were on the march at seven o'clock, the band playing -Patrick's Day and Garry Owen, as we marched out -of town, cheered by the crowd. We were in good spirits, -for every fellow had a parting glass with the landlord -before parting, besides we were getting accustomed to the -march. After a march of fifteen miles we arrived in -Castleblakeney at two o'clock. This is a small town like -Ballymore. During the march to Castlebar, we always -started at seven every morning, and paraded at five every -evening for inspection.</p> - -<p>Next day at two o'clock, we reached Tuam, a fine town, -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">{78}</a></span> -where Archbishop McHale and Bishop Plunket reside, -where we were billeted that night, marching as usual in the -morning: next night at Holymount, arriving at Castlebar -on Thursday, the 18th May, 1850, where we were to be -stationed till further orders, accomplishing a journey of -about one hundred miles in seven days. On arriving we -were shown our quarters; bed filling at the barrack -stores, and cleaning our appointments after the long -march, occupied the remainder of the day.</p> - -<p>The following day commanding officer's parade in heavy -marching order at ten a.m., when we were minutely inspected -and dismissed. We had good barrack accommodation -and easy duty, the men getting ten nights in bed -between guards. After we had been here a few days, we -became aware of the fact that a contested election for a -member of parliament was to take place in about three -weeks, and we found great excitement among the people; -the committee of each candidate were holding meetings -and canvassing for their party; many rows took place -between them, the public houses were continually crowded, -police were brought here from distant stations, and, as the -day of polling drew near, the excitement increased. On the -day of voting two troops of cavalry arrived, and we were -under orders to turn out at a moment's notice. On the -morning of the election, the grenadiers and light company -were drawn up in line on each side of the square fronting -the court-house, with the two troops of cavalry. The -voting commenced at ten o'clock; the police were all -formed ready to pass the voters in and keep the crowd -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">{79}</a></span> -back, the voters were brought in from the country on sidecars, -guarded from the mob by a policeman on each side -of the car.</p> - -<p>The people were very roughly used at first by the -police, which raised their wrath, when they rushed with -immense force on the police and thoroughly defeated -them, forcing them to retreat to the lines of the military -for protection. Having effected this object the crowd retained -their position, but did not attempt to assault the -soldiers, though their shouts of defiance to the police rose -loud and long. The police were ordered to advance again -and seize the ringleaders; they obeyed very reluctantly, -but being assaulted with sticks and stones their individual -courage was excited, and they rushed to chastise -the mob, who again drove them back in greater disorder -than before, and a nearer approach to the soldiers was -made by the crowd in the scuffle which ensued. The police -were again ordered to charge the mob, when a more serious -scrimmage arose, sticks and stones were used with more -effect, and the parties being nearer to each other, the missiles -intended only for the police overshot their mark and -struck some of the soldiers, who bore their painful position -with admirable fortitude, although their patience was -sorely tried to stand a target for the mob, but a soldier's -duty is to obey orders in whatever shape they come from -his officers, and therefore they had to put up with rough -usage. The mob were now furious and the magistrate had -to read the Riot Act before the soldiers could attempt to -quell the disturbance; at last the military were ordered -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">{80}</a></span> -to fire, the captain giving the command, "with ball cartridge, -load, ready, present, fire," the men were previously -cautioned in an under tone of voice to fire over the people's -heads.</p> - -<p>This had the desired effect; the crowd dissolved as the -muskets were brought to the present, after which they -gave three cheers for the soldiers and down with the -"peelers."</p> - -<p>This act brought the soldiers into high esteem with the -populace. The business of the interior was now suspended -for a time by the sounds of fierce tumults, which arose -after the soldiers had discharged the volley; some rushed -from the court-house to the platform, and beheld the mob -in a state of great excitement. A popular candidate now -stood forward on the platform and was greeted with fresh -cheers. He waited till the uproarious cheering died away, -and then addressed them in a few words touching their -nationality and the honour of their country.</p> - -<p>After which the crowd gave him three hearty cheers, -and quiet was restored, when the troops were marched -into barracks, but kept in readiness should another row -commence; but happily all were peaceable afterwards, -although much excitement with plenty of whiskey continued -for several days after, in which several of the -soldiers joined.</p> - -<p>After the election, our men were highly respected by the -inhabitants; the old women brought the men bottles of -"potheen whiskey" in their milk cans. The sergeant on -the gate not suspecting any smuggling, saw nothing but -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">{81}</a></span> -milk in the can—but if he had searched the can he would -have found a black bottle of the real "mountain dew" -at the bottom.</p> - -<p>After being stationed here three months we got the -route for Galway, a town situated at the mouth of Lough -Corrib; it is the west terminus of the Midland Great -Western Railway, and 117 miles west of Dublin.</p> - -<div class="image-center"> - <img src="images/dec-4.jpg" width="120" height="62" alt="dec"/> -</div> - -<div> - -<div class="pagenum"><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">{82}</a></div> - -<div class="image-center"> - <img src="images/bar-4.jpg" width="350" height="60" alt="bar"/> -</div> - -<h2>CHAPTER IX.</h2> - -<p class="header">THE MARCH—GALWAY—CAPTAIN BOURCHIER—DETACHMENT—REGATTA—ROW -WITH THE POLICE—ROUTE TO GALWAY—MAJOR -BOURCHIER EXCHANGES—CAPTAIN CROKER—CLADDAGH—ATTEND -A CAMP MEETING—THE CITY OF GALWAY—THEATRE—ROUTE TO -DUBLIN.</p> - -</div> - -<div> - <img class="drop-cap" src="images/drop-a.jpg" width="64" height="80" alt="a"/> -</div> - -<p class="drop-cap"><span class="uppercase">August</span> -26th, 1850, at 7 a.m., we marched out of -Castlebar; the townspeople accompanied us for -some distance and gave us three hearty cheers on parting. -We marched sixteen miles that day, and were billeted -at Holymount. Previous to this, Captain Bourchier had -applied for leave of absence for three months, which -reached him here, when he started for England after bidding -the company good-bye, and handing it over to Lieutenant -Coulthurst. We all suspected that he was going to -be married during his absence, which proved to be a fact, -for on his return to the regiment in November he brought -his wife with him.</p> - -<p>Next morning we were on the march again, and after -fifteen miles, arrived at Tuam, where we were billeted for -the night, arriving in Galway at two o'clock p.m. the -following day, after a tiresome march of eighteen miles. -The grenadiers and light company, with four others, were -stationed at the Shamble Barracks, and four companies at -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">{83}</a></span> -the Castle. Most of the officers stayed at Mackilroy's -Hotel, in the Market Square or "Green," as it was called, -where they remained until their quarters were ready for -their reception. After our arrival, we all turned out to fill -our beds with straw at the barrack store as usual. Duty -here was easy, having only three guards to furnish, which -consisted of two sergeants, three corporals, and twenty-four -privates daily, but we were kept continually at drill, either -commanding officer's, adjutant's, or sergeant-major's. The -only time we had to call our own was from supper till -tattoo.</p> - -<p>During Captain Bourchier's absence from the regiment -he had been promoted to Brevet Major, and on his return -about the thirtieth of November, he brought a beautiful -bride back with him to share his military honours. He -rented a comfortable house in one of the aristocratic terraces -of Salt Hill Road, in the suburbs of the town. At -Christmas he treated the company to a good dinner and -a barrel of ale to wash it down, when we drank towards -his and his lady's health and happiness, and wished them -many returns of the season.</p> - -<p>On the 30th January, 1851, I had an increase in my -family, for a boy was born to me. We had him christened -Thomas Henry, Thomas after my father, and Henry after -my wife's father.</p> - -<p>Our company was under orders for detachment at -Banagher, a small fortified garrison town on the River -Shannon, and thirty miles south of Galway.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">{84}</a></span> -May 1st, 1851, our company was formed on the barrack -square, inspected by the Colonel, and after a few -words of fatherly advice from him, we marched up High -Street, accompanied outside the town by the band, playing -Irish airs. We had thirty miles to march, which we -accomplished in two days. We marched through Oranmore, -Athenry, and were billeted in Ballinasloe one night, -passing through Eyrecourt, arriving in Banagher next day -at three p.m. These barracks are sufficient to accommodate -about one hundred and fifty men, situated within a -fortification which commands a bridge that spans the -Shannon, and connects King's County with the County -Galway. This part of the country is celebrated for fishing, -shooting, and boating, and Portumna Lake, about -fourteen miles from here, is famous for regattas, which our -three officers, viz., Major Bourchier, Lieutenant Coulthurst -and Ensign Williams, availed themselves of during our time -of duty at this station. They purchased a yacht, a four-oar -gig, and a duck boat, from their predecessors. They also -hired one Jack, the boatsman, to take care of the yacht -and boats, and accompany them when required. They -frequently took a man or two of the company with them -when on sailing excursions to work the yacht, which we -enjoyed very much.</p> - -<p>The Major, Ensign Williams, "Jack," and myself, went to -a regatta at Portumna, a distance of fourteen miles, in -the four-oared gig; we rowed down the river very fast, -arriving there at twelve o'clock, in time for the first race. -The officers were invited on board one of the gentlemen's -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">{85}</a></span> -yachts, which was to sail in the match, "Jack and I" were -left in charge of the gig. After the race the officers returned -at nine o'clock, p.m., when we started to row back -to barracks; after we got eight miles, we came to a lock -which was open as we passed through going down in the -morning, but now it was shut, and we had no alternative -but carry our boat to the other side of the lock. This being -done, we took a drink of "potteen" which we had in the -boat to cheer us up. After refreshing ourselves we started -again with renewed vigour. In going down in the morning -we thought nothing of rowing fourteen miles with the -stream, but now going back against it was quite a different -affair, the stream ran so very swift, and we had hard work -to make headway against it. However, with good pluck -and a drop out of the bottle of "potteen," now and then, we -braved the stream and reached barracks at two o'clock in -the morning. Scarcely a day passed without a boating, -fishing, or shooting excursion of some kind. This makes it -a very pleasant station, and besides, the town has a clean, -neat and tidy appearance, compared with some towns we -have seen in Ireland, and can boast of one decent hotel, -"Mann's Hotel," besides several public houses with skittle -alleys attached, which places of amusement several of -our men patronized. Two of the company had an altercation -with two or three of the police at one of these places, -when the latter tried to take the two soldiers to the police -station; this the soldiers objected to, whereupon a row ensued, -then several more police joined and were forcing the -soldiers off, when their comrades in barracks, having been -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">{86}</a></span> -warned of the row by some person, rushed out of barracks -with naked bayonets in hand, rescued the two soldiers -and beat the police, driving the whole force out of the -town and chasing them through the country, where they -skedaddled and hid in the potato fields. Several of the -police got hurt, but not very seriously. Our company and -the police never could agree after that row, but they never -again attempted to take any of our men to the station-house. -About a month after the row with the police, we -got relieved by No. 6 company from head-quarters.</p> - -<p>On the 27th October we marched out of barracks at two -o'clock, p.m., as the relieving company marched in. After -a march of sixteen miles we arrived in Ballinasloe at -seven o'clock in the evening, where we were billeted for -the night. The railway, which was in course of construction -as we passed here <i>en route</i> to Banaghar, being -now finished and the train running on it, we took the -train at eleven o'clock, a.m., arriving at Galway Station -at twelve, where we were met by the band, which marched -at the head of the company down Main Street, playing -the "British Grenadiers" as we marched into the Shamble -Barracks. One month after this, Major Bourchier -had exchanged to the 54th Regiment, which was in the -East Indies. The night previous to his departure his -brother officers of the regiment entertained him as their -guest at the mess, where they all expressed deep sorrow -at his leaving, and his loss to the regiment. After bidding -the men good-bye, he left for India, taking with him -the best wishes and prayers for his future welfare, especially -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">{87}</a></span> -of his own company, the grenadiers, to whom he -had ever been a father during his command. Many of -the men accompanied him to the railway station to see -him off; need I say we lost a friend.</p> - -<p>Captain John Croker, a Limerick man, not only the tallest -officer in the regiment (height 6 feet 4 ins.) but -now the senior captain, who formerly belonged to No. 8 -company, now got command of the grenadiers, vice -Captain Bourchier promoted. Galway has a population -of about 25,000; the old town is poorly built and irregular, -and some of its old houses have the Spanish -architecture, easily accounted for by the great intercourse -which at one time subsisted between Galway and -Spain. The new town consists of well planned and -spacious streets, built on a rising ground which slopes -gradually towards the harbour; its suburbs are very -wretched—collections of wretched cabins—inhabited by a -poor class of people; one of these suburbs called the -Claddagh is inhabited by fishermen who exclude all -strangers and live perfectly amongst themselves, electing -their king, etc., and ever marrying within their own circle. -These fishermen still speak the grand old Celtic language, -and the old Irish costume is still worn by the women—open -gowns and red petticoats.</p> - -<p>They annually elect a mayor, whose functions are to administer -the laws of their fishery, and to superintend all -internal regulations. One of these fishermen's sons took -a great liking to the soldiers, and frequently came into -the barracks to see us at drill. He was about 6 feet 4 ins. -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">{88}</a></span> -in height, and a powerfully built young man of eighteen -years old. He applied to the sergeant-major to enlist. -He took him before the Colonel who approved of him -when he was enlisted in the 17th Regiment; his name was -Paddy Belton. His father came and tried to get him off, -but it was no use, he had his mind made up, and wished -to be a soldier. After getting his uniform on, he invited -a comrade and myself, to a "camp" in his village, which -is a contest of skill, or competition for priority—a display -of female powers at the spinning of yarn. It is indeed -a cheerful meeting of the bright fair girls; and although -strong and desperate rivalry is the order of the day, it is -conducted in a spirit so light-hearted and friendly that I -scarcely know a more interesting or delightful amusement -in a country life. When a "camp" is about to be -held the affair soon becomes known in the neighbourhood; -sometimes young women are asked, but in most -instances so eager are they to attend that invitations are -unnecessary; in winter time and in mountain districts, -it is often as picturesque as pleasant.</p> - -<p>The young women usually begin to assemble at four -o'clock in the morning; and as they always go in groups, -accompanied besides by their sweethearts, or some male -relative, each of the latter bearing a large torch of well -dried bog-deal, their voices, songs and laughter break upon -the stillness of the morning with a holiday feeling, made -five times more delightful by the darkness of the hour. -The spinning wheels are carried by the young men, amidst -an agreeable volley of repartee. From the moment -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">{89}</a></span> -they arrive the mirth is fast and furious, nothing is heard -but laughter, conversation, songs, and anecdotes, all in a -loud key; among the loud humming of spinning wheels, -and the noise of reels, as they incessantly crack the cuts -in the hands of the reelers who are perpetually turning -them from morning till night, in order to ascertain the -quantity which every competitor has spun; and whoever -has spun the most wins the "camp," and is queen for the -night. At the conclusion of the "camp," we all repaired -to a supper of new milk and flummery, which was most -delicious. This agreeable meal being over, we repaired to -the dancing-room, where Mickey Gaffey, the piper, was -installed in his own peculiar arm-chair of old Irish oak; a -shebeen man, named Barney O'Shea, had brought a large -jar of potteen to cheer the boys' hearts for the occasion, of -which they freely partook, when the dancing commenced. -It is not my intention to enter into a detailed account of -the dancing, nor of the good humour which pervaded -amongst them; it is enough to say that the old people -performed cotillons, and the young folks jigs, reels, and -country dances; hornpipes were performed upon doors -(the floor being of earth) with the greatest skill. My -comrade and myself enjoyed the dance, which was kept -up all night, taking a drop of potteen between the dances, -to keep our spirits up by pouring spirits down. Our -leave was up at six o'clock in the morning, and we had -to report ourselves not later than that hour to the sergeant -of the quarter guard, so we left the dance at four -o'clock, got to barracks before six, gave in our passes -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">{90}</a></span> -to the sergeant, and were just in time for morning drill, -when we drilled till a quarter to eight o'clock, I can assure -you with aching heads after the potteen.</p> - -<p>The principal buildings in Galway are, the Queen's -College, which was just opened a year before our arrival -there; among the other edifices are three monasteries and -five nunneries, Smith's College, the court-house and -barracks, with the grand old Church of St. Nicholas. It -has numerous flour, and other mills, also breweries, and -distilleries. Extensive salmon and sea fishing are carried -on here.</p> - -<p>The bay is a large expanse of water about eighteen miles -broad at its seaward extremity, diminishing to about eight -miles inland, and being about twenty miles long. It is -protected from the swell of the Atlantic by the Arran -Isles. South-west from Galway to the sea is the district -called Connemara, which contains vast bogs, moors, loughs -and marshes, which present a bleak and dreary aspect. -Galway abounds in ancient remains of Celtic as well as -of the Norman period; cromlech and monastic ruins are -found in several parts of the county.</p> - -<p>A very fine specimen of this class is that of Knockmoy, -near Tuam, besides several round towers. The officers -amused themselves both fishing and shooting when off -duty; they frequently could be seen with rod and line -landing a large sized salmon, on the banks of the river, -and another officer coming into the barracks in the evening -with his dog and gun, with his bag well filled with game -after his day's sport.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">{91}</a></span> -Besides these enjoyments they organized an amateur -dramatic company, with Lieutenant Lindsay, Lieutenant -Coulthurst and Ensign Williams at its head, with the band -and a few smart non-commissioned officers and privates; -which was well patronised by the officers and their ladies, -besides several of the nobility and gentry of the town and -any of the soldiers who wished to attend. This brought -round the best of feeling between the regiment and inhabitants, -and produced excellent results.</p> - -<p>We had been for some time looking out for an order -for Dublin. Our expectations were fulfilled on the fifteenth -of March, by the Colonel receiving a large official -envelope containing the route for the 17th regiment to -proceed by rail on the 28th March, 1852, to Dublin, there -to be stationed and do garrison duty till further orders, -to be quartered in the Richmond Barracks. The order -having been read to the regiment, the news soon spread -to the creditors in the town, when could be seen tailors, -shoemakers, hatters, bakers, grocers, and liquor merchants, -all rushing into the barracks looking for their -debtors.</p> - -<p>Notwithstanding the credit of the regiment having -been cried down on our arrival, many tradespeople had -given credit to several parties, which they now were trying -to collect; but all those who cannot collect it now, -the first tap of the big drum will pay them, when we -march out of town.</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="stanza"> - - <div class="verse quote">""How happy is the soldier who lives on his pay,</div> - <div class="verse">And spends half a crown out of sixpence a day."</div> - -</div> -</div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">{92}</a></span> -We had fifteen days to get ready, which were occupied -in cleaning barracks, filling nail holes, and white-washing, -to obviate as much as possible that curse, barrack damages, -which always follows a regiment from one barrack to -another.</p> - -<div class="image-center"> - <img src="images/dec-5.jpg" width="150" height="54" alt="dec"/> -</div> - -<div> - -<div class="pagenum"><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">{93}</a></div> - -<div class="image-center"> - <img src="images/bar-4.jpg" width="350" height="60" alt="bar"/> -</div> - -<h2>CHAPTER X.</h2> - -<p class="header">THE MARCH—RAIL TO DUBLIN—ARRIVAL—GARRISON DUTY—CASTLE -GUARD—THE OLD MAN'S HOSPITAL—DIVINE SERVICE—TENT-PITCHING—DEATH -OF THE "IRON DUKE"—THE FUNERAL—THE -QUEEN VISITS DUBLIN—BUILDINGS AND INSTITUTIONS—THE -ROUTE.</p> - -</div> - -<div> - <img class="drop-cap" src="images/drop-m.jpg" width="73" height="80" alt="m"/> -</div> - -<p class="drop-cap"><span class="uppercase">March</span> -28th, 1852, the regiment was formed on -the Barrack Square, at six o'clock a.m., in heavy -marching order, full kits in our packs: the companies -minutely inspected and told off by their respective captains; -reports collected by the adjutant, when all reported -present to the Colonel, who then gave the command -"fours rights, quick march," when they stepped off, -the companies wheeling to the right out of the gate, the -band striking up "Patrick's Day," playing up the main -street. During the inspection the barrack-gate had been -besieged by a large crowd of town's people, who accompanied -the regiment to the railway station, where we -were joined by the two companies from the Castle. -While getting the regimental baggage, women, and children -on the train, the band discoursed some sweet -music, causing frequent cheers from the crowd. At length -all was ready, when a wild scream from the engine was -heard, and the train moved out slowly from beneath the -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">{94}</a></span> -vaulted roof of the station, amid cheer after cheer from -the populace, who were assembled in large numbers to see -us off; the band playing during the slow departure of -the train from the station, and the men waving their -handkerchiefs, in response, from the carriage windows. -At last the train quickened the speed, and soon station -and crowd faded from our view. We were scarcely an -hour in our seats—and viewing the country as the train -sped along, and admiring the beautiful green fields, hills -and valleys interspersed with running streams, the peasantry -gazing in wonder, and the country girls waving their -handkerchiefs as the long train of soldiers passed them -by—when a shrill whistle from the engine was heard, and -then, with much noise, and many a heavy sob, the vast -machine swept smoothly into the station at Ballinasloe.</p> - -<p>There were, formed in line on the platform, the companies -from detachment at Banagher and Portumna, waiting -our arrival to join head-quarters. The train stopped -at this station twenty minutes, when the two companies -came on board. All being ready, the train moved off -again, soon reaching Athlone, where we stopped fifteen -minutes. Here we got refreshments—a glass of beer and -a biscuit, which we enjoyed, having breakfasted at five -that morning. About an hour after we were in Mullingar, -stopping fifteen minutes, when we started again. We -are rapidly leaving Mullingar behind. The fields gradually -assume a green and spring-like aspect. This part of -the country is highly cultivated. Occasionally a small -village in the valley, by some running stream, or upon -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">{95}</a></span> -the hill side, gives life and charm to the landscape. The -Royal Canal runs alongside of the railway all the way -from Dublin to Mullingar, and unites the Liffy with the -Shannon in the west.</p> - -<p>As I was viewing the beauty of the landscape, the engine -gave a loud and long whistle, which reminded me -we were close to the city. Now we can see Wellington's -monument, in Phœnix Park; arriving at the station at -one o'clock, after a ride of one hundred and thirty miles, -when we were met by the band of the 39th Regiment, -who played at the head of the Regiment to Richmond -Barracks. On arrival we were told off to our different -barracks.</p> - -<p>These are splendid, large, airy barracks, sufficient for -two regiments, with good officers' and staff quarters, but -bad for married soldiers, who have to rent apartments -outside.</p> - -<p>The military force in Dublin then consisted of the 11th -Hussars, Island Bridge Barracks; 17th Lancers, Royal -Horse Artillery and Foot Artillery, Portobello; 2nd -Dragoon Guards, 27th Regiment, Royal Barracks; 32nd -Light Infantry, Ship Street and Linen Hall Barracks; -39th and 17th Regiments, Richmond Barracks; besides -depôts at Beggars' Bush; the whole under the command -of Major-General Sir Edward Blakeley, whose quarters -were in the Old Man's Hospital, near Phœnix Park.</p> - -<p>The regiments furnish the duties in their turn. In -garrison orders of the 30th, the 17th Regiment were detailed -to furnish the whole of the duties on the following -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">{96}</a></span> -day, viz:—The Castle Guard, one captain, one subaltern, -two sergeants, and twenty-four privates; Lower Castle, -one sergeant, one corporal and six privates; Vice-Regal -Lodge, one sergeant, two corporals and eighteen privates; -Old Man's Hospital, one sergeant, two corporals, and -twelve privates; Kilmainham, one corporal, and three privates; -Arbour Hill Hospital, one sergeant, one corporal -and twelve privates; Magazine, one sergeant, one corporal -and six privates; Mountjoy, one corporal and six -privates; Island Bridge, one sergeant, one corporal and -twelve privates; Picture Gallery, one corporal and three -privates; Bank of Ireland, one subaltern, one sergeant, -one corporal and twelve privates; Richmond, one sergeant -two corporals and twelve privates.</p> - -<p>These guards, with the regimental guards, assemble -daily (Sundays and wet days excepted), on the Esplanade, -at ten p.m., when they are trooped, the junior officer -of the Castle Guard carrying the colours during the -trooping. The regiment who furnishes the duties for the -day, also furnishes the band, which plays during the trooping -of the colours, when crowds of spectators assemble to -witness this military review. After they march past in -slow and quick time, the guards are formed on their commanders, -when they are marched off to their respective -guards by the field officer of the day. Relieving the Castle -Guard is a very imposing sight, and hundreds of people -assemble to witness this military performance, as well as -to hear the sweet martial music while the guards are relieving. -Before the old guard marches off the new guard -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">{97}</a></span> -plants its colours in the centre of the Castle yard, with -a sentry over them. Two sentries are posted at the gate -of the Castle yard, and two on the door of the Castle, -under the portico. All the sentries of the old guard having -been relieved, the guard is marched off by its captain, -the subaltern carrying the colours, when the new guard -salutes by presenting arms, after which the new guard -takes the place of the old; the relief being told off, they -are dismissed to the guard-room. The guards take their -rations with them, which consists of three-quarters of a -pound of beef or mutton, one pound and a half of bread, -one pound and a half of potatoes and onions, one-eighth -ounce of tea, quarter of an ounce of coffee, two ounces of -sugar, with pepper and salt to each man. There being but -one pot and pan in each guard-room they are kept, as -you may well imagine, in active work until six o'clock in -the evening, every relief boiling potatoes and making tea -and coffee.</p> - -<p>I was detailed for the Old Man's Hospital, which is -a large establishment, and consists of the Major General's -Quarters, the English Church, where the troops from -Richmond attend divine service, as well as the "Old -Pensioners," or "Old Fogies," as they are called. There -are quarters here for about eight hundred men; any pensioner -can be admitted who applies (married men excepted). -They are required to pay in their pension for -their board and clothes; the latter consists of cloth trowsers, -red tunic, which comes down below the knee, and a -Napoleon hat. They have no duty to perform, only keep -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">{98}</a></span> -themselves and quarters clean and tidy. They are all -well satisfied and seem happy; chatting, and fighting -their battles over again. The grounds, walks, avenues, -shrubbery, kitchen-garden, and flower-beds around this -institution show the taste, cleanliness, and discipline of -those old veterans whose home it now is, provided by a -grateful country.</p> - -<p>Being relieved from guard next day, we had kit inspection -by the commanding officer, accompanied by -Major Cole, who had just joined. Sunday, church parade -at ten a.m.; being inspected, we were marched off, the -band playing through Kilmainham, to the Old Man's -Hospital, where the Protestants and Roman Catholics -parted for the time. I, belonging to the latter, marched -to St. Mary's Church, on Arran Quay. As we marched -along the Liffy the sweet strains of music, which re-echoed -along the river from the different bands as they marched -to church, caused a most pleasant sensation, which raised -our thoughts heavenward. It is deeply to be regretted -bands do not now play on Sundays, owing to the Puritan -objections. Strict military discipline, numerous general -field-days and reviews, drilling at tent-pitching in the -nineteen acres, regimental drills and parades, with five -nights in bed, kept our men pretty well employed. But -the beautiful walks in Phœnix Park, and driving to the -strawberry beds on side-cars, with our sweethearts on -Sunday afternoons, together with theatres, concerts, -museums, picture galleries, and the scenery of the -city, compensated us well for all our strict discipline, -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">{99}</a></span> -and we were well pleased with Dublin as a military -station.</p> - -<p>Now came a sad and mournful event to the army. The -Duke of Wellington—the Iron Duke, that noble and illustrious -warrior and statesman, whose glorious and eventful -life, history relates and old veterans remember—terminated -this earthly career at the ripe age of 84 years. -This event, which took place suddenly and unexpected, -occurred on Tuesday, the 14th of September, 1852, after -a few hours' illness, at Walmer Castle his official residence. -The intelligence of this mournful event was received -at the time with the deepest regret by the officers -and men of our regiment, and universal gloom pervaded -throughout the whole garrison. The hero of Salamanca, -St. Sebastian, Quatre-Bras, Ligny, and Waterloo, had -paid the last debt. November the 1st, a general order was -issued directing one officer, one sergeant, and twelve rank -and file from each regiment in garrison to proceed, on the -8th inst., to London, to take part in the funeral procession -of the late Field Marshal, His Grace the Duke of Wellington. -Lieutenant W. H. Earle, Sergeant Plant, and twelve -rank and file (I being one of the latter), to parade on -the Esplanade, with the detachment from the other -regiments in garrison, when they were inspected by the -General, and marched off, with a field officer in charge, -going on board a steamer at the North Wall, at six -o'clock p.m. We had on board about one hundred and -fifty picked men from these corps, I being the smallest -man of the party, and I was five feet eleven. The men -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">{100}</a></span> -vied with each other in a smart, soldier-like appearance. -All being ready, the Captain cried out, "all on board," -when the steamer moved out slowly from the quay, -passed clear of the shipping and Pigeon House Fort on -the right, where detachments of our men assembled, and -gave us three cheers, waving their handkerchiefs, the -steamer rushed onwards, city and shore fading away, -and nothing but heavy clouds and water could be seen. -The evening had an angry appearance; darkness closed -around; the sailors thought it looked like a storm, but -they were mistaken, although the vessel rolled and -pitched more than we thought agreeable. After a good -deal of rolling and pitching, with a frequent wave breaking -over our bow, we steamed into Liverpool docks at -six o'clock in the morning, landed, got breakfast, and -marching to the railway station, took the train at 9 a.m. -for London. The engine gave the warning whistle, and -we moved out of the station, and were whirling onward -towards London. The morning was bright, invigorating -and beautiful, the swift-winged train going thundering -along at the rate of forty miles an hour. After a ride of one -hundred and eighty miles in nine hours, we were set down -at Euston Station. While in London, we were quartered -in Regent Park. On the morning of the 13th of -November, nothing could be more imposing than the -whole line of this melancholy procession; the day was -fine, and the appearance of the troops splendid.</p> - -<p>The streets were lined with cavalry and infantry, from -the station to St. Paul's Cathedral. At twelve o'clock the -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">{101}</a></span> -body arrived by rail from Walmer Castle, escorted by a -guard of honour. To detail the order of the procession -would occupy too much space here, suffice it to say, that -the cortege moved from the station, the bands playing the -dead march, minute guns firing, as it marched to St. Paul's -Cathedral, where the body was lowered into the crypt, -close to the last earthly resting-place of the heroic Nelson, -waiting for the trumpet to turn-out. The funeral was one -of the most gorgeous and solemn spectacles that had ever -before been witnessed in England.</p> - -<p>This solemn duty being performed, we returned by rail -next morning to Liverpool, where we took the steamer -at six p.m. for Dublin, arriving there at six in the morning, -after a rough passage, with several cases of sea-sickness, -when we marched to our respective barracks.</p> - -<p>The regiments in Dublin are changed from one barrack -to another every ten months; ours having been in Richmond -the prescribed time, were changed with the 63rd -from the Royal Barracks. The first of April we marched -from Richmond, meeting the 63rd, when the junior saluted -the senior; the 17th being the older regiment, we had -the honour of their salute. On arrival, we were quartered -in Palatine Square. The change we hailed with -pleasure, as it brought us closer to the amusements of the -city. Twelve men of each company were now armed with -the Minié Rifle, rather an improvement on Brown Bess, -and proceeded to the Pigeon House Fort, to go through -a course of rifle instruction on the beach; this course being -finished, the rifles were handed over to twelve others, -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">{102}</a></span> -who went through a course in the same manner, and so -on, until the whole regiment had gone through a course -of rifle instruction.</p> - -<p>On the 1st of February, 1853, I had another increase -in my family, for a daughter was born. We had her -christened at St. Mary's Church, Arran Quay, Dublin.</p> - -<p>In the summer, the Queen and Prince Albert visited -Dublin. A message having been received that Her Majesty -and the Prince were to land at Kingstown, the -grenadiers and light company were ordered to proceed -by rail from Westland Row Station to Kingstown, as a -guard of honour. We were formed in two lines facing inwards -from the terminus to where the Royal yacht was -to come alongside, forming a passage which was spread -with a red carpet, for Her Majesty and the Prince to walk -to the railway carriage. We were standing there an hour -when the Royal yacht was descried in the distance, and -as she steamed into the harbour, the ships fired a royal -salute. The yacht coming alongside the quay, we could -see Her Majesty and Prince Albert walking the deck. -Her Majesty looked well, and wore a plain plaid shawl, -and seemed well pleased with the reception. Soon after -arrival, the Royal couple landed. As Her Majesty stepped -on shore, the guns of the fortresses belched forth a royal -salute; at the same time the bands played "God save the -Queen." A special train was in readiness, which conveyed -the Royal couple and guards of honour to Dublin, where -they went in an open carriage to the Vice-Regal Lodge, -accompanied by several troops of cavalry. On the occasion -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">{103}</a></span> -of Her Majesty and the Prince landing, many thousands -of people were present, and on the streets along the -route to the Vice-Regal Lodge, were immense crowds, -who cheered and waved their hats, Her Majesty and the -Prince most carefully acknowledging their loyalty. Two -days afterwards, the troops in garrison were ordered to -assemble in review order at ten a.m., in the fifteen acres -to be reviewed before Her Majesty and Prince Albert. On -the day appointed, the troops were marched into the -park, bands playing at the head of their respective corps -(accompanied by thousands of citizens), and were formed -in line of contiguous quarter distance columns facing the -east, with the field batteries on the flanks, and the cavalry -in rear, at ten a.m. After waiting a few minutes, Sir -Edward Blakeney and his staff arrived, when he deployed -the troops into line.</p> - -<p>On the appearance of her Majesty on the ground the -artillery fired a royal salute, the infantry presenting arms, -the bands playing "God save the Queen." Her Majesty -in an open carriage, drove down the front of the line inspecting -the whole, including the boys of the Hibernian -School. After the inspection the troops marched past -Her Majesty in slow, quick, and double time. The Queen -seemed delighted with the marching past; afterwards -they were put through several field movements. As the -Queen was looking on, the crowd made a rush, determined -to take off the horses and to draw Her Majesty in her -carriage. This Prince George took for an attempt to assault -her person, not understanding the character of the Irish -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">{104}</a></span> -people, when he called out for the cavalry to form up; -but when he found that he mistook the people's loyalty, -he apologized. This little contretemps caused the Queen -to smile at the mistake he had made, when she drove off -(well pleased with the review) to the Vice-Regal Lodge, accompanied -by an escort of cavalry. The troops were then -marched to their respective barracks, with their bands -playing. On arrival in barracks the grenadiers and light -company were detailed for a guard of honour to Her -Majesty during her visit at the Vice-Regal Lodge, and -be encamped in front of the lodge in readiness to -turn out at Her Majesty's pleasure. After Her Majesty's -departure the regiment was removed from the -Royal to Ship-street Barracks, with two companies at -Linen Hall. We also formed a guard of honour on the -occasion of the Lord Lieutenant opening the great Irish -exhibition. The public buildings of Dublin are famed -for their number and grandeur. In the first class may be -mentioned the Bank of Ireland, formerly the House of -Parliament; Trinity College, the Custom House and the -Four Courts, which, from the chasteness of their design, -and the massiveness of their proportions, have a very imposing -effect. Here, also we find monuments of William -the Third, in College Green; of Nelson, in Sackville Street; -of the Duke of Wellington in the Park, with several -others. There are numerous places of worship—Roman -Catholic and Protestant—monasteries, convents, and a -Jewish synagogue. The most remarkable among the Protestant -churches are, Saint Patrick's Cathedral and Christ's -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">{105}</a></span> -Church, and among the Roman Catholic, St. Mary's, St. -Saviours, St. Augustine, and St. Kevin's. The squares, -which are very numerous, spacious, and well kept, are -Stephen's Green, which occupies an area of twenty acres, -and a mile in circuit; Merrion Square, the most aristocratic; -the Trinity College Squares occupy more than 40 -acres; Rutland Square, with the Rotunda at the end of -Sackville Street. The environs of Dublin are especially -beautiful. Rathmines, a southern suburb, is a favourite -residence of the wealthier part of the mercantile community. -Glasnevin, on the north, deserves special notice, -being the last resting place of the remains of Dan. O'Connell, -Curran, and Tom Steele. The Phœnix Park is a -magnificent area of nearly 2000 acres, having a large -amount of timber, which shelter immense herds of deer; -it affords scope for military reviews, and is most extensively -used by the inhabitants for recreation. The Liffy -is crossed by nine bridges, two of which are iron, and -throughout the whole extent of the city, the banks of the -river are faced with granite walls.</p> - -<p>At Christmas, our Captain, John Croker, treated the -company to a barrel of Guiness's porter; Lieutenants Coulthurst -and Earle looked after the sergeants and married -men, in the way of several substantials at Christmas, -when we drank towards their health and wished them -many returns of the season. Winter here is very pleasant, -not much drill, visiting theatres and concerts in the evening. -Our term here is short. On the 16th February, -1854, we got the route for Templemore, a town 90 miles -south-west of Dublin.</p> - -<div> - -<div class="pagenum"><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">{106}</a></div> - -<div class="image-center"> - <img src="images/bar-3.jpg" width="350" height="60" alt="bar"/> -</div> - -<h2>CHAPTER XI.</h2> - -<p class="header">ARRIVAL AT TEMPLEMORE—THE ROUTE TO CORK—EMBARKATION -FOR GIBRALTAR—QUEENSTOWN—THE VOYAGE—STORM AT SEA—GIBRALTAR.</p> - -</div> - -<div> - <img class="drop-cap" src="images/drop-a.jpg" width="64" height="80" alt="a"/> -</div> - -<p class="drop-cap"><span class="uppercase">At</span> -ten a.m., after inspection by Colonel McPherson, -C.B., who took command of the regiment, vice -Styte, who retired, we marched to the Great Southwestern -Railway station, the band playing the "British -Grenadiers," accompanied by crowds of people, who gave -us three cheers as the train moved from the station, the -band playing "Auld Lang Syne," and the men waving -their handkerchiefs. After a run of one hundred miles in -three hours, we arrived in Templemore and marched to -our respective quarters. These barracks are built on the -same plan as those at Richmond, and large enough for two -regiments. The town is small and dull, but the country -very pretty. We were here a little over two months when -we got the order to proceed to Cork by rail, on the 27th -April, there to embark on board two sailing transports, -the "Dunbar" and "Cornwall," two sister ships; the right -wing to go in the latter, and the left in the former.</p> - -<p>War with Russia having been declared on Friday, -March the 28th, we all agreed that, though ordered to -Gibraltar, before many months would elapse we would -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">{107}</a></span> -have the honour and glory of taking the field shoulder to -shoulder with those troops who had already embarked -for the seat of war in the East.</p> - -<p>April 27th, 1854. The regiment took the train at two -p.m., arriving in Cork at five p.m., distance one hundred -miles, in three hours. On arrival we were quartered in -Cork Barrack that night, next morning we were conveyed -to the transports, which rode at anchor in Queenstown -harbour, by two small tug steamers. This harbour is unsurpassed -for capacity and safety; it is distinguished into upper -and lower, the latter is situated eleven miles below the -city, three miles long by two broad, and completely landlocked. -Its entrance is by a channel two miles long by -one wide, defended on one side by forts Camden and -Carlisle. The upper portion extends for about five miles -below the city to Passage; within the harbour are several -islands, the principal of which are, Great Island, on which -is situated the fortifications of Queenstown; Spike Island, -on which is a bomb-proof artillery barrack, and convict -depôt; Rocky Island, on which are powder magazines excavated -in the rock; each side of the harbour is richly -planted with ornamental trees and shrubs, studded with -beautiful villas, cottages and terraces; and Queenstown -deserves special notice, for its magnificent suburban residences -of the gentry, interspersed with ornamental trees, -well-kept lawns and promenades, elegantly designed -churches and chapels, red brick buildings, splendid -shops with large plate glass windows, and clean, wide -streets, with a fine view of the shipping in the harbour, -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">{108}</a></span> -make it one of the most delightful places in Ireland. The -climate being so salubrious, it is much frequented by consumptive -invalids.</p> - -<p>The right wing were all on board (except some married -officers and their families) when each company were -shown their berths and mess-tables, after which stowing -of knapsacks commenced; the ship's officers were busily -engaged telling off the women and children to their berths -in the after part of the ship. On the upper deck everything -was in confusion; the ship's steward was getting -his fresh supply of provisions on board for the voyage, -and the sailors stowing away in coops and pens, hens, ducks -and sheep; at last the deck was cleared, and things put -ship-shape. The rolls being called and all reported present, -the watches were then told off. The captain walking the -quarter-deck, the sailors and soldiers man the capstan, and -the band ready to play, with a stiff breeze off the land. At -3 o'clock p.m. the captain gave the order to weigh anchor, -when the band struck up "Rule Britannia," the sailors -and soldiers keeping time to the music, manning the capstan. -As the anchor was tripped, the sails were unfurled, -and we ran out of the harbour, amid cheers from the shore -and shipping in the harbour, and were soon bowling along -with a stiff breeze on the bow (N.W.). The men were -served out with hammocks and one blanket, one tin plate, -one panakin to each man, one meat dish, one soup can for -each mess; every mess had brought their own pudding -clothes. At five the tea bugle sounded, when the orderly -men repaired to the cook's-galley for the tea, and served -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">{109}</a></span> -it out in the messes. After tea the men went on deck to -smoke, chat, and wonder if they were going to be sea-sick. -At five thirty the ration bugle sounded, when the orderly -men proceeded to draw rations for next day, which consisted -of salt pork and beef, on alternate days, biscuits, -flour, raisins, currants, tea, sugar, cocoa, vinegar, mustard, -pepper and salt; they made the plum-pudding for dinner, -tied it up ready to boil after breakfast next day—so you -see Her Majesty cares for her gallant soldiers. The ship -was skimming along with a stiff breeze on the starboard -bow, all sails set. At six o'clock the boatswain piped -down hammocks, when they were all swung, and as the -last post sounded at nine o'clock, they all managed to -crawl into them. I was on watch from eight to twelve; -the wind had been increasing during the evening. I also -observed the sky had an angry appearance; the sailors -were all busily at work securing every sail and making -all taut. The wind had changed in the night and was -now blowing hard in our teeth; it was a case of tacking, -and for landsmen a very trying affair; all night it blew -a gale, the wind still from the same quarter; in the night -the sailors had to shorten sail several times, each time the -ship was brought round on the other tack with a tremendous -lurch, and mess tins, water kegs, and tin dishes were -dashed to the other side in frightful confusion. My watch -being relieved, I turned in at twelve, and with all the -pitching and tossing I slept soundly until I was awoke -by the orderly sergeant turning out the men to get their -hammocks stowed on deck. When I went on deck to put -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">{110}</a></span> -my hammock in the place appointed, the wind was still -blowing hard; I had to hold on to keep my footing; the -whole sea was alive, wave chasing wave and bounding -over each other crested with foam. Now and then the -ship would pitch her nose into the waves even to the bulwark, -and dash the billows aside, and buoyantly rise -again, bowling along at ten knots an hour though under -moderate sail. Breakfast at eight o'clock of hard sea -biscuits and cocoa; but many were on their backs in sea-sickness. -After breakfast all hands were ordered on deck -except the orderly men, who kept the mess in order and -prepared the meals. The wind was still very high and -the long swells began to tell on the men; the figure-head -plunging as usual deeply into the water, and the heads -of some of our men hanging in agony over the gunwale -and portsill, in the horrors of sea-sickness.</p> - -<p>At the sound of the grog bugle at twelve, they all -sprightened up, and very few were absent from their half-gill -of rum and two waters. When the dinner of salt-beef -and plum pudding was served, most of them made -appearance. After dinner the sun had shown through -the clouds, and the men gathered in groups on deck to -smoke and chat. The progress of the ship was a subject -of interest; it was the first thing in the morning and the -last at night; and all through the day the direction of -the wind, the state of the sky, the weather, and the rate -we were going at, were the uppermost topics of the conversation. -The ship was bounding along very fast, and -it was a fine sight to look up at the clouds of canvas -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">{111}</a></span> -bellied out by the wind like the wings of a gigantic bird, -while the ship rushed through the water, dashing it in -foam from her bows, and always dipping her figure-head -into the waves, sending up a shower of spray. There -was always something exciting in the ship, and the way -in which she was handled astonished us soldiers; for instance, -to see the top-gallant sails hauled down when the -wind freshened, or a stay-sail set as the wind went round -to the east. The hauling in of the mainsail on a stormy -night was to be remembered for a life-time; twenty-four -sailors on the main-yard at a time, clewing in to the music -of the wind whistling through the rigging. The sailors -sing out cheerily at their work, the one who mounts -the highest or stands the foremost on the deck usually -taking the lead, thus—they cheer up—</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="stanza"> - - <div class="verse quote">"Haul in the bowlin',</div> - <div class="verse">I love you, Mary Nolan,</div> - <div class="verse">Haul in the bowlin',</div> - <div class="verse indent2">Rollin' yo, heave ho."</div> - -</div> -</div> -</div> - -<p>In comes the rope with a jerk until the "belay," sung -out by the mate, signifies that the work is right. Then there -is a rush on the deck when the wind changes, and the -yards are to be squared as the wind comes more aft. Being -relieved at twelve I turned in and slept well until -four o'clock, when I was awoke by the watch holystoning -the deck, under the charge of the officer of the watch. -I need scarcely explain that the holystone is a large, soft -stone, used with water for scrubbing the decks. It rubs -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">{112}</a></span> -down with sand. The sand is washed off by water from -the hose, the pump being worked by four men, a man directing -the nozzle of the hose into every crevice; the -force of the water washing every particle of dirt from the -hen-coops, sheep-pens and decks. The watch always -wash decks in their bare feet, their trowsers turned up -above their knees. After the decks are well washed down -with water from the hose, they are dried with swabs, -and the deck looks as white as a tablecloth; the boards -brighten with the work, not a grease-mark or spot of dirt -is to be seen; all polished off with hand scrapers; the -ropes all neatly coiled man-of-war fashion, not a bight out -of place, and the brass-work polished and shining—hard -work before breakfast. By six o'clock the decks are all -clean and dry and everything looking neat; at nine o'clock -the doctor ordered all the women and children on deck; -the sun shone through the clouds and all was pleasant, -the ship running along with close-reefed canvas. At sundown -the wind changed round on her larboard quarter -from the north-west, and we were making good progress -across the Bay of Biscay; we were getting accustomed to -the motion of the ship, and many of the officers and men -assembled on deck until a late hour watching our course -and looking for our port. On Sunday morning the wind -was blowing a gale; during the twenty-four hours we -made 190 miles.</p> - -<p>At ten o'clock we were all assembled on the main deck -for Divine service, which was read by the captain of the -ship; the day was fine with a stiff breeze; we were running -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113">{113}</a></span> -before the wind at the rate of ten knots an hour; we -had slept well all night. Going on deck next morning, I -found the wind strong from the north, and the ship going -through the water at a splendid rate; as much sail was -on her as she could carry, and she was dashing along, -leaving a broad track of foam in her wake. There is no -resting, but a constant pushing onward; and, as we look -over the bulwark, the waves tipped by the foam which -the ship has raised seem to fly behind us at a prodigious -speed. At ten next morning we found the ship's run during -the twenty-four hours had been 200 miles—a grand day's -work, nearly equal to steam. We ran well before the breeze -all night, until about six in the morning, when the wind -changed to our starboard bow, and heavy dark clouds appeared -in the distance, and the wind dropped almost to -a calm, the sails flapping against the mast all day and -night.</p> - -<p>Next morning the sailors were busy securing ropes -and getting everything ready; they said this calm was -but weather breeding, and predicted that we were to have -a change. The glass was falling, and we were to look out -for squalls. They were not disappointed in their morning's -expectations of a gale. Before morning we had it in -earnest.</p> - -<p>We, novices in sea life, thought we had a severe storm -on Friday night, but the sailors only laughed at us when -we spoke of it. In our hammocks below we knew that the -wind was blowing a gale, that the ship was pitching and -tossing about fearfully, and could hear the boatswain's -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114">{114}</a></span> -whistle, and the sailors aloft reefing sails, and the waves -breaking clean over the deck above us. At two -o'clock in the morning a heavy sea struck our starboard -side. The concussion seemed like striking against a rock; -some were thrown clean out of their hammocks; women -and children thrown from their berths, crockery smashed -and boxes rattled, trunks, water kegs, tin dishes, plates, -pails, and every moveable article was dashed with violence -from one side of the ship to the other.</p> - -<p>Women and children screamed with fright, and men -jumped from their hammocks. For a few moments the -ship stood perfectly still, as if stiffened with the stroke, -then she shivered from stem to stern, and the timbers -groaned and quivered; in a few moments more she was -dashing headlong onwards through the mountain of waves. -I should think if there were any on board who had never -prayed before, they must have prayed now. Both men -and women vied with each other in the exchange of -good offices and friendly words.</p> - -<p>Envy was subdued, passionate wrath and revenge were -forgotten, all acted as men and women who were soon to -stand in the presence of their God. There was the pure -steady and charming light of Christian hope and love -shining beneath the very shadow of death. It was a -solemn and touching thing to hear so many strong men -acknowledge, in that hour of peril, their utter helplessness, -and praying Him who once lay on a pillow asleep, "Lord -save us we perish"—praying Him to abide with us. The -hatches were all canvassed and fastened down, so that -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115">{115}</a></span> -none but the sailors and the soldiers on watch could go -on deck, the sea was washing over the deck. That was -indeed, an awful night, dark, chilling, and drenching; -hour after hour passed as we momentarily expected our -doom. The deck was continually washed over by great -seas. As soon as morning light appeared, I managed to get -on deck, though with extreme difficulty, both from dizziness -and the motion of the ship. I was determined to -enjoy the fresh air and see how the ocean looked, lashed -into a tempest. I had to cling fast to keep my footing; the -ship was pitching up and down, tossed like a feather in -the wind. We rode on huge mountain billows of dark -leaden colour, capped with molten glass and tipped with -silvery caps of foam. As I hung on to the rope, meditating -on the vastness of the ocean, and waves mountains -high, my soul was deeply impressed with the omnipotence -and infinity of the God who scooped out this mighty -abyss, and filled it with those powerful waters. He hath -set them their bounds and says to them in their wildest -commotion, "thus far, and here shall thy proud waves be -stayed."</p> - -<p>This dreadful storm raged all day, and the night was -terrible; there was no more distance nor space; the sky -was turned into blackness, and shut itself down upon -the ship, nothing was any longer visible on this the racecourse -of the wind; we felt ourselves delivered over to a -merciful providence. The men, women and children had -their second attack of sea-sickness, even the sailors were -sick. The storm raged all next day (Sunday) and night; -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_116" id="Page_116">{116}</a></span> -no one on board could get anything cooked as the fires -were all put out from the sea washing over the ship; even -if they could, few could eat,—they were all so sick.</p> - -<p class="center gap-above">THE VOYAGE TO GIBRALTAR.</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - -<div class="stanza"> -<div class="verse">On the wide expanse of the stormy seas,</div> -<div class="verse">Our noble ship swept before the breeze,</div> -<div class="verse">Our gallant captain, when twelve days had run,</div> -<div class="verse">Tried with his sextant to take the sun.</div> -</div> - -<div class="stanza"> -<div class="verse">The heavy fog seemed still much worse,</div> -<div class="verse">Scarcely knowing where to lay his course,</div> -<div class="verse">And tried and tried the stormy main,</div> -<div class="verse">While heavy fog seemed to kiss the plain.</div> -</div> - -<div class="stanza"> -<div class="verse">The clouds they broke and showed the sky,</div> -<div class="verse">Placing the instrument to his eye,</div> -<div class="verse">The howling wind our course had fixed,</div> -<div class="verse">And marked the latitude at forty-six.</div> -</div> - -<div class="stanza"> -<div class="verse">An eastward course he then did try,</div> -<div class="verse">While billows they rose mountains high,</div> -<div class="verse">The captain's orders were to haul yards back,</div> -<div class="verse">And set the sails on starboard tack.</div> -</div> - -<div class="stanza"> -<div class="verse">The storm it rose a furious gale,</div> -<div class="verse">Which caused the landsmen's hearts to fail,</div> -<div class="verse">With deathly sick, as then the heaving ship</div> -<div class="verse">Rode high on billows, then her prow would dip.</div> -</div> - -<div class="stanza"> -<div class="verse">On the wave-washed deck with deep dismay,</div> -<div class="verse">The dizzy soldier feels the deck give way,</div> -<div class="verse">And tries in vain a last resource,</div> -<div class="verse">To catch a rope to stay him in his course.</div> -</div> - -<div class="stanza"> -<div class="pagenum"><a name="Page_117" id="Page_117">{117}</a></div> -<div class="verse">Rushing with nausea to the side,</div> -<div class="verse">Where the starboard watch at him did chide,</div> -<div class="verse">He holds on taut while feet give way,</div> -<div class="verse">And clings like death to portsill stay.</div> -</div> - -<div class="stanza"> -<div class="verse">But now the western winds the sails expand,</div> -<div class="verse">And soon the "look-out" reports he sees the land,</div> -<div class="verse">Where there before us in the vapours rolled,</div> -<div class="verse">The African mountains looming out so bold.</div> -</div> - -</div> -</div> - -<div class="right2 small smcap">T. Faughnan.</div> - -<p>Monday morning at four o'clock the wind changed on -our larboard quarter, and suddenly dropped. The boatswain -piped all hands to square yards and make sail; -this order was hailed by the men, and it soon reached the -women, when they all offered up prayers and thanks to -God for their deliverance.</p> - -<p>The wind dropped considerably, and by twelve o'clock -all was quiet, the ship running steadily before the wind.</p> - -<p>The usual grog bugle sounded at twelve, when every -man made his appearance. At six in the evening the -wind fell away altogether. This repose after that fearful -storm was an unspeakable blessing; all that had been -fury was now tranquillity; it appeared to us a sign of -peace; we could let go the rope or stay we were holding -on by; the women and children could stand upright -and straighten themselves, and walk and move about; -we felt ourselves inexpressibly happy in the depths of -this heavenly change. All night was almost a dead calm, -and it was a blessing; we all slept well after the awful -pitching and tossing we had had the last three days. In -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_118" id="Page_118">{118}</a></span> -the morning when I went on deck the sails were flapping, -and not a breath of wind. After breakfast the women -and children were ordered on deck, when the lower decks -were thoroughly scrubbed and cleaned, and when dinner -bugle sounded they were allowed to go below. After -dinner the upper deck was washed and cleaned. Toward -evening the wind changed to our starboard and began to -freshen; towards morning we were running before the -wind at nine knots an hour. At ten o'clock a.m., I was -agreeably surprised when I heard a sailor from the masthead -cry out, Land, ho! I found by our captain's eyes -that the land lay off our weather beam, but though I -strained my eyes looking for the land, I could see nothing. -It was quite an hour before I could find it, and then it -looked more like a cloud than anything else. At length -the veil lifted, and I saw the land stretching away to the -eastward, as we neared it, and saw it more distinctly. It -looked a glorious object to us soldiers, though we were -then ten or twelve miles off, yet the highest peaks, which -were above the clouds, some hundreds of feet high, were -so clear that they looked as if they had been stolen out -of the "Arabian Nights," or some fairy tale of wonder -and beauty.</p> - -<p>The bluff and lofty headland of Cape St. Vincent, with -its sharp detached rock, white light-house, and adjacent -convent skirting the edge of the precipice, was the first -land that I saw, as the ship bounded upon our glorious -waters of Trafalgar bay. All on board were quite recovered -of their sea-sickness, as the ship glided across -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119">{119}</a></span> -wide bays and along the indented coast of Spain. The ship -had soon studding-sails set, and she swept onward like -some large bird of prey towards the straits. Tarifa, -famous in martial story with its low, flat-roofed houses, -backed by barren-looking, sun-scorched hills, was passed -and all eyes were turned on the tremendous scragged -outline of the African coast rising several thousand feet -above the sea. The hazy morning light added to the -effect, throwing out in relief the broad stone face and -picturesque form of Ape's Hill, streaked with shadowy -fissures, crevices and indentations, which the scorching -sun failed to touch. But the Spanish side of the straits, -through which the blue Mediterranean now became visible, -engrossed the larger share of our attention. There -stood the bold rock of Gibraltar, rearing its bald crest to -the sky, a fit sentinel at the gate of those waters which -lave the shores of fallen, but once mighty empires, now -the key and glory of Old England. The ship now hoisted -her flags, which were immediately noticed at the signal -station, on the loftiest part of the range, where a flag-staff -is visible against the sky. Some of our officers who were -on the rock before, with the help of their telescope could -trace many an old haunt. They knew every path on those -craggy heights. There was the town behind the old -Moorish walls, looking the same as ever; there was the -Alameda, the convent, and many other familiar domiciles, -peeping from amogst shrubberies and gardens.</p> - -<p>At five p.m. we cast anchor in the harbour of Gibraltar, -when the ship was besieged with bumboats of vendors -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_120" id="Page_120">{120}</a></span> -in oranges, dates, lemons, figs, and luxuries of almost -every kind. Soon after a boat with a yellow flag approached -the ship; it was the health officer, who made -inquiries of our doctor as to sickness on board, and was -answered "All right, No sickness but sea-sickness," when -he returned to shore, and afterwards a staff officer appeared -who informed the captain that he had got "pratique," -when the order to disembark at once was given.</p> - -<div class="image-center"> - <img src="images/dec-3.jpg" width="100" height="69" alt="dec"/> -</div> - -<div> - -<div class="pagenum"><a name="Page_121" id="Page_121">{121}</a></div> - -<div class="image-center"> - <img src="images/bar-5.jpg" width="350" height="58" alt="bar"/> -</div> - -<h2>CHAPTER XII.</h2> - -<p class="header">THE LANDING—BARRACKS—GARRISON DUTY—OLD NORTH FRONT—SMUGGLING—MARKET—QUEEN'S -BIRTHDAY—THE DINNER—SPEECHES—THE -ROUTE—THE MARCH—EMBARKATION FOR THE CRIMEA—THE -PARTING—THE VOYAGE—ARRIVAL AT MALTA.</p> - -</div> - -<div> - <img class="drop-cap" src="images/drop-m.jpg" width="73" height="80" alt="m"/> -</div> - -<p class="drop-cap"><span class="uppercase">May</span> -13th, 1854, at 6 p.m., the right wing formed -in open column of companies, right in front, on -the New Mole, after a very rough passage from Queenstown, -and considering how the men were knocked about, -they looked remarkably clean and well. The band and -pipers of the 92nd Highlanders met us at the New Mole, -and played alternately during the march to the Casemate -Barracks, where we were quartered, followed by a crowd -of Rock Scorpions, a motley crowd of English, Irish, Spaniards, -Italians, Jews, and Moors. Several soldiers from -the garrison welcomed us, and seemed pleased to see a -fresh regiment arrive to share their military duties. By -two o'clock next day the "Dunbar" arrived with the -left wing. They landed at three o'clock and joined headquarters -at the Casemate Barracks, number six company -proceeding to Catalan Bay on detachment.</p> - -<p>The regiment was exempt from garrison duty next day, -in order to get its baggage in order, and settle down in -their quarters. The following day we found the whole -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_122" id="Page_122">{122}</a></span> -of the garrison duties. The guards with their colours are -trooped every day at ten a.m. (Sundays excepted), on the -Alameda, under the field officer, assisted by the brigade -major. I was detailed for the Old North Front Guard, -which consisted of one captain, one subaltern, one sergeant, -two corporals, and twenty-four rank and file—the -soldiers take their rations with them on guard. The -officers get their meals sent from the mess.</p> - -<p>The guard furnishes a chain of sentries across the neutral -ground which divides the Spanish from the British -lines. Gibraltar is a free port, and a resort, in consequence, -of Spanish smugglers, who drive an amazing -trade by running contraband goods into Spain, and <i>vice -versa</i>, which the British authorities endeavour to stop by -all means possible. Notwithstanding all their exertions, -this fraud is still carried on under cover of dark nights. -I, being posted on No. 6 post along the Spanish lines -from twelve till two, my orders were to make prisoners -of any smugglers who attempted to pass through. As I -walked up and down my post, I heard some slight noise -in the long grass. I stooped down and saw two men -crawling along the grass. I advanced, and challenged, -"who goes there?" when they stooped down and tried to -get away. I then advanced nearer, and threatened to fire -if they did not answer my challenge, at the same time -brought down my musket to the charge, and full-cocked. -When they saw I was about firing, they stood still and -answered me saying, "Bono Jonny, me good man, here -me gib you plenty bacca, me gib you plenty gin, him good -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123">{123}</a></span> -gin, me gib you plenty eberthing you let me pass, mit -dem tings to garden, you plenty big good man, come from -Inglas, you von good man, plenty drink gin, him good for -you." They took some stone jars of gin, and some tobacco, -to give me for letting them through; but, true to -my orders, when I saw the smuggled goods they had, I -made them prisoners, telling them if they moved, I would -shoot them. At the same time I passed the word to the -next sentry to send for the sergeant of the guard. They -begged off very hard, and finally offered me all their stuff -if I would let them go. As soon as the sergeant came, I -handed him the prisoners, with six large, square blocks of -tobacco, and six large cases of gin. This smuggling is -ever carried on, and the sentries have all they can do to -prevent it. Some sentries, I am sorry to say, compromise -with the smugglers, tobacco and gin being too strong -temptations for them. The guard being relieved, we discharged -our muskets into the sea, all our guards being -loaded. The climate is warm and pleasant throughout -the year, and yet we can see the perpetual snow-capped -mountains of Andalusia, towering heavenwards in the -distance. The troops have bathing parade twice a week, -at five o'clock in the morning; and several times during -the day, may be seen soldiers and civilians besporting -themselves like porpoises in the water of the Old Mole. -There is a market every morning, which opens after gunfire. -The Spaniards cross the neutral ground from Spain -with their mules, loaded with all sorts of provisions, -vegetables and fruit, standing outside the drawbridge, -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_124" id="Page_124">{124}</a></span> -waiting for the gate to be opened. The market place is -fenced in, and divided into square stalls, which are rented -by the vendors, who consist of Moors, Spaniards, Jews, -and Italians.</p> - -<p>The Moors squat down behind their stalls with their -Fez cap, and turbans, big breeches, and a long loose gown -open in front, yellow slippers, and smoking a long pipe. -Oranges, grapes, figs, lemons, dates, olives, and fruit of -almost every description are sold here very cheap.</p> - -<p>On the 24th May, the Queen's Birthday, the troops in -garrison, consisting of two batteries royal artillery, two -companies sappers and miners, and four regiments of infantry, -were drawn up in line on the North Front at twelve -o'clock, each man furnished with twelve rounds of blank -cartridge. As the clock in the tower struck twelve, a -gun fired from the Sky Battery was the signal for a -Royal salute; then the batteries on the rock as well as the -men-of-war in the harbour fired twenty-one guns each, -and the line of soldiers with the field artillery on their -flanks, fired a feu-de-joie. After the smoke cleared off, -the men waved their shakoes in the air, then gave three -cheers for Her Gracious Majesty. This was a grand sight -for the spectators, more especially the Spaniards, who -assembled in thousands to witness this military celebration -of Her Majesty's birthday.</p> - -<p>The troops then marched past, in slow, quick, and -double time, they were then divided into two armies, and -put through a sham-fight, which lasted till four o'clock. -We had those fights frequently, and a general review -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_125" id="Page_125">{125}</a></span> -once a week during the summer months. On the 15th -November, I had another increase in my family; a girl was -born, and she was christened Elizabeth.</p> - -<p>On the 20th November, 1854, we received a letter of -readiness to prepare for active service in the East. Then -came the usual packing of baggage, and creditors—Jews, -Moors, and Gentiles—flying round the barracks with -pieces of paper in their hands, looking for what was not -easily found just then.</p> - -<p>The evening before embarkation our company was -entertained at a supper by the grenadiers of the 39th Regiment, -whom we had often met and done duty with in the -same garrison, and a friendly feeling had sprung up -between the officers and men of both companies; both -captains and officers were present to see the men enjoy -themselves. After the cloth was removed the president -proposed a toast to the Queen, which was drunk with a -hearty good will, and three cheers for Her Majesty. The -captain of the 39th stood up to propose the health of their -guests. "Brother officers and soldiers," he said, looking -down the two rows of faces, one on each side of the long -table, with a cheerful frank smile, "in the name of the -grenadier company, which I have the honour to command, -allow me to extend to you, our brothers and comrades -in arms, a hearty welcome, I think as this garrison, -which has been so jolly, and is about to be broken up by -the gallant '17th Royal Bengal Tigers' going to join the -army in the Crimea, I must say that we are heartily -sorry that it has not come to our turn to share the -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_126" id="Page_126">{126}</a></span> -honours of our comrades in a brush with the Muscovites; -but we hope, ere many days pass, we will have the gratification -of joining you in the East, and there share the -glories of the British Army in fighting for our Queen and -country, and leading such men as I now see before me at -this hospitable board against the Russians. We tender -to you frankly the hand of military comrades, and instead -of firing a feu-de-joie of compliments, it is the duty of -those who remain to drink the health of those who are -proceeding on active service in the East. A bumper then, -let us say good health and God bless them." With three -times three the glasses were drained, whilst the band -struck up "The British Grenadiers."</p> - -<p>Captain John Croker was then called upon to respond. -He said, "Brother officers, and soldiers of the 39th Regiment, -this cordial reception and courtesy of the officers -and privates demand our warmest acknowledgments, -which I, in the name of my company, have the honour to -acknowledge, and I propose a health to the grenadiers of -the 39th Regiment with whom we are about to part,—charge -your glasses;" and the toast was drunk with all -honours, to the appropriate tune of "Auld Lang Syne," -the company singing, "They are Jolly Good Fellows."</p> - -<p>December 2nd, 1854, at 8 a.m., the 17th Regiment -"Royal Tigers" paraded in the square of the Casemate -Barracks for the last time, and having been called to attention, -and inspected by the commanding officer, Colonel -McPherson, C.B., he gave the word of command, the men -stepped off, preceded by the bands of other regiments, -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_127" id="Page_127">{127}</a></span> -through the main street of the town, playing the "Girl I -Left Behind Me," followed by a motley crowds of friends, -sweethearts, and curious spectators, as we marched to -the New Mole, where the steam-ship "Tamar" was -lying along side the wharf to convey the 17th Regiment, -two batteries of royal artillery, and two companies of -sappers and miners, to the seat of war in the Crimea. -Our parting with our wives and children was a very -affecting and trying sight, officers and soldiers taking the -last farewell (some of them, perhaps for ever) of those -nearest and dearest to them, whom they were now leaving -behind on that barren rock; many hundreds of miles -away from friends or relatives, and not sure whether we -would ever return again to our loved families. I had left -my wife and three children, one of them only sixteen days -old, trusting in God.</p> - -<p>But our Queen and country require us to meet the -despot in mortal combat, and defend the honour and -glory of that old flag "that braved a thousand years the -battle and the breeze," therefore we must sever all family -ties, though hard to give up our feelings, when our Queen -and country call us to the front. Let it not be supposed -that the officers are wanting in sympathy towards the -private soldier: very superficial has been the observer, -who can believe that the officer and the private possess -little in common with each other; or who can persuade -himself that the private soldier is only a machine, moved -only by the command of his superiors. Should such a -casuist exist let him remember that men are men, whether -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_128" id="Page_128">{128}</a></span> -the scarlet on their backs is of the finest or coarsest texture; -and that, if the advantage of birth and the refinement -of superior education have done nothing for the -officer, the private soldier who makes a good use of such -talent as he may have received, occupies a higher position, -be his ever so humble. There were some private soldiers -in the regiment who, at the parting moment, felt as -deeply the separation from wife and children, as the more -aristocratic members of the same profession; nor were incidents -of a romantic interest wanting, though the tearful -young girl who saw with anguish her true lover's departure -was only dressed in calico. Doubtless in these latter -times, when England has sent forth so many of her -sons to fight for the honour of her flag, there are few -who have not seen something of the display of the varied -emotions which such departures call forth, it will therefore -be unnecessary to say that when the sad time of -parting had come it was visible in the tearful eyes and -blanched cheeks of many in the crowd. The loud cheers -which greeted the 17th Regiment as it passed through -the gate of the drawbridge leading down to the wharf -where the ship lay, showed the chivalrous emotions -of the stern British soldiers who lined the ramparts and -along the docks, with crowds of people whose hearts -beat with sympathy as the regiment embarked.</p> - -<p>At eleven o'clock, all being ready, the captain gave the -word and the steamer moved out slowly from the wharf, -the band playing in slow time "Auld Lang Syne" amid -cheer after cheer, and handkerchiefs waving from the -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_129" id="Page_129">{129}</a></span> -people, and returned by the crowd of red-coats who assembled -on deck to wave their handkerchiefs and wipe -away the tears which were fast running down their -cheeks as they gazed on their little ones left behind on -the wharf.</p> - -<p>As the steamer rounded the New Mole her speed -increased, and the music also changed time; at length -Europa point, with its barracks and batteries, was turned -and the reverse side of the rock, still more bold and -barren with "O'Hara's Old Tower," rearing its lofty -weather-beaten ruined spire, on the highest summit of -the Wind-mill Hill. Favoured by a beautiful sunny -day and a westerly breeze, the "Tamar" swept rapidly -past the gigantic sentinel whose watch-word is the -roar of the signal gun, on the summit of the telegraph -station; and when the evening sun was gilding the snow-topped -mountains of Africa with a streak of gold, the -good ship had proceeded many miles to the eastward, and -though the mountains of Africa reared their bright summits -above the horizon, the "Old Rock" was no longer to -be seen.</p> - -<p>Then our attention was directed to the white-capped -mountains on the south coast of Spain; and when these -faded from view, time was passed in looking out for -African capes or sun-burned islands.</p> - -<p>After tea the men assembled on deck, indulging in all -sorts of games to pass the time. A comic soldier dressed -up like a baboon grinned and jumped round the decks, -up the masts, and through all the performance of a monkey, -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_130" id="Page_130">{130}</a></span> -causing roars of laughter from all around. After -this, dancing was introduced, several of the men being -musicians had brought their fiddles, we were at no loss -for music; at the other side a group were singing comic -and sea songs; in this way the evening was passed until -the bugle sounded at nine o'clock, when we turned into -our hammocks. We have much better accommodation -than we had on the old "Cornwall," although we have -three times the number on board.</p> - -<p>Next morning decks were washed by the watch at four -o'clock; at ten a.m., commanding officer's parade, when -the men looked in excellent spirits. Now came in view -something to call their attention, a grampus had blown -a shower of water in the air fifty feet; the men all rushed -to see what it was, several gave their opinion as to what -caused the eruption of the water, some thought it was a -volcano that broke out, some said it was an infernal -machine the Russians had placed there to destroy our -shipping, and many various opinions were brought forward -to explain the cause of the wonderful blow; a sailor, -however, came along and told us that it was a grampus. -Now we see plenty of flying-fish, whole shoals of the glittering -little things glide along in the air, skimming the -top of the waves; they rise to escape their pursuers, the -bonitos, which rush after them showing their noses above -the water now and then; but the poor flying-fish have -their enemies above as well as under the water, for they -no sooner rise than they risk becoming a prey to the ocean -birds which are always hovering about ready to pounce -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_131" id="Page_131">{131}</a></span> -upon them; it is a case of "out of the frying-pan into the -fire." They fly farther than I thought they could. I saw -one of them fly at least one hundred yards, and sometimes -they fly on deck some fifteen feet from the surface -of the water. The weather was all that could be wished -for, and our splendid ship making rapid progress through -the blue waters; the sea is almost a dead calm, hardly a -ripple on the face of the deep; an occasional whale is seen -blowing in the distance, and many grampuses came rolling -and blowing about the ship. One thing that struck me -most is the magnificence of the Mediterranean sun-set; -the clouds assume all sorts of fantastic shapes and appear -more solid and clearly defined than I have ever seen -them before; toward evening they abound in colour, purple, -pink, red and yellow, alternately, while the sky near the -setting sun seems a beautiful green, gradually melting -into the blue sky above, the great clouds on the horizon -look like mountains tipped with gold and fiery red. One -of those sun-sets was a delightful sight; the sun went -down into the sea between two enormous clouds, the only -ones to be seen, and they blazed with brilliant colours -which were constantly changing, until the clouds stood -out in dark relief against the still delicately tinted sky. -I got up frequently to see the sun rise, but it is not near -so beautiful as at setting. After sun-down the officers -chose out a few of the best talent among the men, who -assembled on the quarter-deck and sang some excellent -glees, comic and sentimental songs, with great applause; -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_132" id="Page_132">{132}</a></span> -at nine o'clock the bugle sounded, when we turned in and -slept well, the ship running as steady as if she was in a -canal.</p> - -<p>Next morning after parade the officers amused themselves -with their revolvers shooting at porpoises which -came in shoals close to the ship. After dinner the band -played on the quarter-deck to the delight of all on board, -more especially the ship's officers and sailors. The -weather was beautiful and the sea like a mirror.</p> - -<p>At seven next morning the sailor on the look out on -the masthead cried out "land ho!" when all eyes were -strained looking for the desired object, but none could see -it for some time afterwards—at last we saw it in the distance, -like a dark cloud lying on the waters; as we neared -the land it appeared to us a rocky, barren-looking island, -Malta. Yet the cultivated strips here and there were so -green and flourishing, they presented a most charming and -beautiful appearance. Those who had not before visited -the place were struck with the imposing appearance of -this remarkable city. Tier upon tier of batteries upon all -sides showed bristling rows of guns, daring intruders to -enter the harbour with hostile intentions. To the right -the principal part of the town was to be seen, terrace above -terrace, dome and spires, towering above the houses, all -looming darkly against the sky. The air was sultry, and -the reflection of buildings, rocks and shipping, in the -almost still water was only agitated by the little boats -which were moving about in all directions. The harbour -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_133" id="Page_133">{133}</a></span> -was crowded with shipping, and as we moved into our -moorings at ten o'clock, we were cheered by the sailors -and soldiers on board the men of war in the harbour, as -well as from the batteries on either side. We had a -splendid passage of nine hundred and eighty miles in four -days.</p> - -<div class="image-center"> - <img src="images/dec-6.jpg" width="100" height="55" alt="dec"/> -</div> - -<div> - -<div class="pagenum"><a name="Page_134" id="Page_134">{134}</a></div> - -<div class="image-center"> - <img src="images/bar-5.jpg" width="350" height="58" alt="bar"/> -</div> - -<h2>CHAPTER XIII.</h2> - -<p class="header">MALTESE—DEPARTURE—A CAPTAIN COMMITS SUICIDE—THE FUNERAL—SMALL-POX—RETURN—RESUMED -THE VOYAGE—GRECIAN ARCHES—DARDANELLES—GALLIPOLI—TURKISH -SENTRIES—CONSTANTINOPLE—TURKISH -LADIES—THE BOSPHORUS—VOYAGE ACROSS THE -EUXINE—ARRIVAL.</p> - -</div> - -<div> - <img class="drop-cap" src="images/drop-s.jpg" width="58" height="80" alt="s"/> -</div> - -<p class="drop-cap"><span class="uppercase">Soon</span> -after our arrival in the harbour, a coal-barge -came along side, and about fifty Maltese commenced -to coal our ship; they carried the coal on their heads in -round, wicker baskets; passed each other on the gangway -after depositing their load in the ship's bunker. The -coaling lasted about two hours, during which time the -officers and men were amused by divers who came along -in little boats; a boy managing the boat, while the diver -was left free to exercise his strange employment. His -dress consisted of a light pair of drawers short at both -ends, and a loose skirt. Bringing his little craft alongside, -where we were looking over the railing, and divesting -himself of his upper garments, he commenced in a supplicating -tone of broken English: "sixpence, me dive for -sixpence, me get him quick; me get him sure." Some of -the officers tossed a sixpence into the water where it was -very deep, supposing he was going to the bottom for it; -but experience taught him an easier mode of catching it. -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_135" id="Page_135">{135}</a></span> -Watching it with the eye of a hawk he saw it strike the -water, and, poising himself, he sprung head first in the -sea; the water was so clear we could follow him with our -eyes. Down he went like an arrow, outstripping the sixpence -in the race for the bottom; before it had sunk -twelve feet he had his hands under it in the form of a -bowl, the shining piece dropping into his hands; he then -clapped it between his teeth, rose to the surface, climbed -into his boat and exhibited the prize with the air of a -conqueror. This was repeated several times, and with unerring -certainty he caught the prize every time. He then -asked for some one to throw a sixpence the other side of -the ship, which was done, when he sprang under the ship -and brought it up in his teeth on the other side. The -Maltese had finished coaling at twelve, when our steamer -moved slowly from her buoy; dense masses of people -lined the batteries, and yet larger crowds of soldiers in the -forts St. Angelo and St. Elmo cheered as our steamer -moved along, the cheers from the fort being taken up by -the troops on board, as well as the sailors and marines in -the harbour, and joyously responded to by our troops who -assembled on the deck to give our last hurrah for the -East. The Town of Valetta with its strong forts, batteries, -terraces, domes and houses grew smaller by degrees -as the gallant "Tamar" ploughed her onward course through -the blue waters of the Mediterranean, the island looking -like a little blue cloud in the distance, gradually fading -away. We have the trackless expanse around us; in the -distance Mount Etna looms up in the north-west. The -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_136" id="Page_136">{136}</a></span> -ship was making rapid progress through the waters—the -captain says, "if this breeze lasts, we will reach Constantinople -on the 8th," but our expectations were frustrated; -"man proposes, but God disposes," which we found to be -true; for on Saturday, at 8 a.m., a very melancholy occurrence -happened which threw a deep gloom over all the -troops on board; the captain commanding the detachment -Royal Artillery had cut his throat in his cabin; no person -could ever find out what was the cause which led him to -commit this dreadful act.</p> - -<p>How deeply touching is a burial at sea! replete with -reflection, striking and sublime, as should always be the -spectacle of a funeral,—the tree falling as it must rise -again, with no leaves nor flowers of repentance or prayer, -or office to alter its final doom, ever to bloom again on -that cut down stem,—far more deeply does the service -and the sights and the sounds of a funeral on the ocean -always move one. The clouds had cleared and it was intensely -hot; the funeral took place at two o'clock; we saw -the body sewed up in a hammock with a round shot at its -feet, and borne by the men of his battery from his cabin -and laid upon the deck. We had no clergyman on board, -therefore the painful duty of reading the service devolved -upon the captain of the ship, which could not have been performed -by a clergyman. As he began to read, not a sound, -not a breath broke the solemn silence; nothing but the -noise of the rolling swells against the smooth side of the -ship as I stood close to the gangway while the service -was read, in deep thought, and gazing on the bright and -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_137" id="Page_137">{137}</a></span> -glorious shining sea, now nearly calm, looking so intensely -sunny and blue; it seemed to some a mocking at the king -of terrors, whose victim was about to be committed to its -keeping. To me it looked like the gemmed and crystal -gate of that heaven through which the Son of God had -promised the faithful Christian who believes and trusts in -Him to wing its happy way, there to learn many a marvel -that he had striven on earth to trace and explore.</p> - -<p>Earnestly and solemnly he read, and, when he uttered -the last words, the sailors raised the body to the edge of -the gangway and let it slide, feet foremost, into the sea -"and so we commit his body to the deep." You who think -it a solemn thing to hear the bell of some country church -at home echoing through the rich woods or flowery valleys, -telling of the death of some one who will never -return home again, cannot form any idea of the awe -which strikes into the heart at sea. I do not think there -were many dry eyes among the officers and men of his -battery, as they saw the body splash into the deep sea -and sink straight down, with the heavy round shot at his -feet. After this painful event the doctor reported two cases -of small-pox, which had broken out amongst the troops, -and immediately the captain and officers held a council -to know what course they would pursue. It was decided -to return to Malta, and put the sick men into hospital -there, and prevent taking the infectious disease out to the -Crimea amongst the troops. The ship was headed for Malta -where we arrived at 6 p.m. next day; as we entered -the harbour unexpectedly, from one of the upper forts, at -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_138" id="Page_138">{138}</a></span> -the end of the harbour, there came a flash, followed by -a loud report, which was echoed back and forward -against the rocks and buildings, till the roaring sound -at last died away, and the wreath of white smoke slowly -ascended into the sky. It was the evening gun, which -is fired at sun-down. After handing over the two patients -to the proper authorities we again steamed out of harbour. -There were crowds of people again assembled along the -batteries to witness the departure of our noble ship, -with the living cargo of redcoats on board, of course -wondering what caused our return. As we got out to sea, -a breeze sprung up on our larboard quarter, when all -sails were set, and soon the island faded again away into -the distance, and once more our ship was going through -the waters at 15 knots, under the influence of wind and -steam; next day at six p.m., we had run 240 miles in 24 -hours. Sunday, at ten a.m., parade for divine service, -which was read by the captain of the ship; at sun-down -the wind wheeled round right in our teeth, which obliged -us to take in all sail. The men were paraded at ten a.m., -next day, and between various duties, and the sharp appetites -brought on by the sea air, we managed to get over -the time very pleasantly. The band played on the quarter -deck in the afternoons, when the weather permitted; towards -evening the wind veered round on our starboard -bow, and the boatswain piped all hands to make sail, but -we were doomed ere long to experience a change of -weather, for the sun went down in a clear but stormy -sky, the wind piping, snoring, and howling through the -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_139" id="Page_139">{139}</a></span> -blocks and rigging, the waves thundering against our -starboard, the ship had to struggle with a south-easterly -gale of such fury, that it reminded me of a Levanter, -which the Mediterreanean is famous for; at daylight the -land was made, a heavy cloud-like line just perceptible. -It was the Morea, and the men rushed on deck to see the -land. As we ran up, the snow-covered mountain peaks -with cold, rocky, barren edges, and villages of white houses -dotting the declivity towards the sea, became to us perfectly -distinct.</p> - -<p>At 8 a.m. we passed Cape Matapan; although the old -reputation of this cape was not sustained by our destruction, -still the sea showed every inclination to be troublesome, -the wind kept rising every moment. At ten a.m. -we were passing between the Morea and Cerigo; we had -a proof that the Greeks were nearly right about the -weather. Even bolder sailors than the ancients fear the -heavy squalls off those snowy headlands, which gave us -but a poor idea of sunny Greece.</p> - -<p>The ancient Greeks always considered a voyage round -Capes Matapan and St. Angelo fraught with great danger. -As we rounded the angle of the cape the wind -rushed at us with much fury; we saw the sea rushing with -crests of white foam right on our starboard bow. Its violence -was terrific, the sea was rolling in wondrous waves -towards the ship; she behaved nobly and went over them -with the greatest ease. The gusts came down furiously -between the little islands, which we could not make out -or did not know the names. The men bore up well -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_140" id="Page_140">{140}</a></span> -against this furious storm, although they were all sea-sick -but never absent when the grog bugle sounded at twelve -o'clock.</p> - -<p>The night came upon us and the ship labouring on, -dashing the sea into white spray in the darkness. At -day light next morning the sight was most discouraging, -the clouds were black and low, the sea white and high, -and between them on the horizon was a mass of a broken -character so that one could not be known from the other. -We passed Milo at 9 p.m., and the gale increased; afterwards -at 10 a.m., when the wind changed one point aft -and the ship rolled very much, the deck was inclined to -so sharp an angle that we could only hold on by a tight -grip of the stays and ropes. The sea breaking over the -ship swept several of the horse stalls loose about the -deck, and the poor animals lay helpless against the bulwarks. -About twelve o'clock the wind went down and -the sun burst forth, sending his golden warm rays through -the clouds, when the artillery men picked up their horses -and put everything in its place again. We passed the -Greek coast trending away to the left, showing in rugged -masses of mountains capped by snowy peaks, and occasionally -some good sized towns were visible on the dark -brown hill side, with several windmills along the beach. -With some exceptions, the isles of Greece rather disappoint -the lovers of the picturesque; seen from the sea -they are more or less bold and barren, abounding with -sterile rocks almost entirely devoid of wood, except a -stunted olive tree here and there, and clothed with a kind -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_141" id="Page_141">{141}</a></span> -of reddish-brown grass. The Candian mountains are perhaps -the most striking features which we encountered in -our progress through what the sailors call "the arches," -As we swept through the "Thermian Passage," accompanied -in our course by several ancient-looking craft with -little white sails stretching outwards, resembling the -wings of Icarus, and others of no less ancient model, with -lofty prow and solitary square rigged mast. On the left -lay the Gulf of Athens, on our right rose the snowy -heights of Mount Ida, 5,400 feet above the level of the -sea, to the north the lofty Lemnos. At three p.m. we -passed the castles of the Dardanelles and the Hellespont; -we were not stopped nor fired at as in days of yore. As -we passed Gallipoli, about seven p.m., we could see a collection -of red-roofed houses, with tall minarets rising up -amongst them. From the entrance of the Dardanelles to -Gallipoli the straits are very narrow, not more than a -quarter of a mile in some places. We ran along close to -the bank on the European side; its breadth opposite the -town of Gallipoli is about four miles, and it expands towards -the Sea of Marmora. As the ship ran along the -banks we could see large herds of goats and small black -sheep feeding on the high rocks along the edge of the -river. Night was closing on us and, as we passed the -numerous forts on the European side the sentries yelled -out strange challenges and burned blue lights, and blue -lights answered from our ship in return, so that it looked -to us a strange spectacle. The lights were put out and our -eyes are as blind as owls in day light, but our eyes soon -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_143" id="Page_143">{143}</a></span> -recover, the stars at last begin to twinkle, and we see a -little around us. All night we were crossing the Sea of -Marmora with a strong current against us.</p> - -<div class="image-center"> - <img src="images/pl-142.jpg" width="500" height="381" alt="pl-142"/> - <div class="caption"> - <p class="small">BANKS OF THE DARDANELLES.</p> - </div> -</div> - -<p>Next morning, after breakfast we came in sight of Constantinople; -at ten a.m. we passed the Seven Towers on -our left, with Seraglio Point just before us; at 10.30 we -cast anchor with hundreds of other vessels at the mouth -of the Golden Horn. Steam ferry-boats of the English -kind were passing to and fro, and caiques flitted in and out -with the dexterity and swiftness of a sea-gull. As we cast -anchor, a small brig coming down stream ran foul of us on -the starboard bow, snap and crash went her bowsprit and -yard, causing considerable damage to our bulwarks and -stays; this accident detained us two hours. The stream -runs so swiftly down the channel that vessels frequently -ran foul, sometimes causing serious damage. We notice -passing back and forward from Stamboul to Pera, caiques -with Turkish women wearing white clothes, and staring -at us out of two black holes in their yashmak. At twelve -o'clock we weighed anchor and continued our course -through the Bosphorus. The scenery is of almost unrivalled -beauty and the panorama of which Constantinople -forms the principal part, is such as is perhaps nowhere -else to be seen in the world.</p> - -<div class="image-center"> - <img src="images/pl-144.jpg" width="400" height="507" alt="pl-144"/> - <div class="caption"> - <p class="small">A TURKISH LADY.</p> - </div> -</div> - -<p>As we proceeded up the stream and looked back, the -view of the Marmora, as we leave it behind, is very fine. -On the opposite Asiatic shore Mount Olympus, 8,800 feet -high, with its snow-crowned summit fades away into the -blue of the heavens, while the Imperial Palace of the Seraglio, -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_144" id="Page_144">{144}</a></span> -St. Sophia's Mosque, and others of less proportions, -stud the banks in unbroken lines from the very foot of -the forts which command the entrance up to the crowning -glory of the scene, where the Imperial City of Constantine, -rising in many coloured terraces from the verge -of the Golden Horn, confuses the eye with its numerous -gardens, cypresses, mosques and palaces, its masses of -foliage and red roofs surmounted by snow-white minarets -with golden tops. The residences of the Pashas, the Imperial -palaces of the Sultan, and the retreats of opulence, -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_146" id="Page_146">{146}</a></span> -line these favoured shores. As the ship ran along we -could see the Turks sitting cross-legged like tailors on -their verandahs smoking away and looking as like each -other as if they were twins. The windows of these -houses are closely latticed and fastened, but here and there -can be seen a white-faced lady, with gay coloured robe, -peeping through the jalousies, showing that the harem is -occupied by the fair sex. These dwellings succeed each -other the whole length of the Bosphorus, and at places -such as Buyukdere they are numerous enough to form -large villages, provided with hotels, shops, and lodging -houses.</p> - -<div class="image-center"> - <img src="images/pl-145.jpg" width="500" height="359" alt="pl-145"/> - <div class="caption"> - <p class="small">THE SULTAN'S PALACE, SERAGLIO POINT.</p> - </div> -</div> - -<p>The Turks delight in sitting out on the platform over -the water while they smoke their chibouque, and the -greatest object of Turkish ambition is to enjoy the pleasure -of a residence on the banks of the Bosphorus. These -waters abound in fish, and shoals of porpoises and dolphins -disport on its surface, splashing and playing about -with ease as they swim against its rapid stream.</p> - -<p>I noticed the Turks never took the least notice of us -as we arrived; so we departed in silence, and, as far as the -Turks were concerned, in solitude. The boatmen scarcely -turned their heads to look at the majestic steamer with -her deck covered with British troops, crossing the broad, -rough, and stormy seas to fight for these lazy, indifferent -orientals, who would scarcely turn their heads to look at -us, much less give us a cheer as we departed from the -Sultan's Sublime Porte.</p> - -<div class="image-center"> - <img src="images/pl-147.jpg" width="400" height="592" alt="pl-147"/> - <div class="caption"> - <p class="small">THE SULTAN.</p> - </div> -</div> - -<p>As we pass the batteries which mark the opening of -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_147" id="Page_147">{147}</a></span> -the Bosphorus into the Euxine, we cheer the Turkish -sentries as we shoot past them into the Black Sea, and -soon the land is shut out. A fog, a drifting, clammy, -mist, cold and rain, fall down on us like a shroud, and -as the night closes in, it damps out the stars and all the -light of heaven, and steals down yard, mast and stays; -this is genuine Black Sea weather.</p> - -<p>In the morning the same haze continued with drifting -cold wind; after breakfast we commenced to sharpen our -swords and bayonets in order to have them ready to -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_148" id="Page_148">{148}</a></span> -serve out to the Russians in a professional manner, and -with as little pain and torture as we possibly could; the -grinding-stones were furnished by the sailors;—this occupied -the whole day. The morning dawned; the sun, red -and stormy, glared from an angry sky, over a rugged -outline of coast not more than twenty-five miles distant, -and lighted up by white capped waves which plunged -athwart the ship's course. As we neared the land the captain -and officers stood forward with their telescopes in -hand. Where was the desired haven? was now the subject -of conversation, not a sign of an opening was distinguished -in that formidable rock, which the telescope -scanned from end to end; but at last the captain sighted -a ruined tower upon a cliff somewhat lower than the rest -with a union-jack flying.</p> - -<p>It was not long before the masts of a man-of-war just -visible above the high rocks which marked the narrow -entrance into Balaklava harbour, was seen; up went our -number, but in vain we looked for an answer. We entered -the small, deep harbour through a very narrow passage -which was crowded with shipping. We ran up close alongside -the ledge of a steep rock on the left side of the harbour, -in twenty fathoms of water, and made fast to iron -hooks fixed in the rock for that purpose.</p> - -<div> - -<div class="pagenum"><a name="Page_149" id="Page_149">{149}</a></div> - -<div class="image-center"> - <img src="images/bar-3.jpg" width="350" height="60" alt="bar"/> -</div> - -<h2>CHAPTER XIV.</h2> - -<p class="header">DISEMBARKATION—FIRST BIVOUAC—THE MARCH—ARRIVAL—SEBASTOPOL—THE -TRENCHES—FIRST MAN WOUNDED—RETURN TO CAMP—AN -ALARM—LORD RAGLAN—SORTIE—FORAGING—THE OLD BRIDGE—COLONEL -COLE—THE SIEGE.</p> - -</div> - -<div> - <img class="drop-cap" src="images/drop-d.jpg" width="69" height="80" alt="d"/> -</div> - -<p class="drop-cap"><span class="uppercase">December</span> -15th, 1854, at 2 o'clock p.m., the regiment -disembarked, in heavy marching order, at -Balaklava, having been served out with the following -articles of camp equipage previously, which we carried -to the front, consisting of one circular tent complete -to every sixteen men, one camp-kettle, frying-pan, axe, -hand-saw, spade, shovel, and two billocks to each mess, -one blanket to each man, with three days' ship rations.</p> - -<p>The command being given, we marched, distributing the -camp equipage amongst the men of the company. The -rain poured on us as we waded knee deep through the -mud, making the best of our way among the heaps of -forage and stores, which lay under the rain and exposed -to the weather, without cover of any kind, all around -Balaklava. We were obliged to halt outside the town, on -account of the heavy rain, and pitch our camp on the side -of Kadikoi Hill for the night. Before we got our tents -pitched we got saturated with rain to our very skins. We -had cold comfort that night, in wet clothes and blankets -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_150" id="Page_150">{150}</a></span> -lying on the damp ground; everything wet except our ammunition -which we always managed to keep dry;—we had -not even a light in our tents. At 9 o'clock, after posting -the piquet sentries around our camp, we lay down;—this -was a good receipt for rheumatism, and it required a strong -constitution to bear up. At reveillé next morning we were -on the alert, eat some biscuits without water, alas, there -was no water near our camp, and marched off. After marching -four miles through a slough of Balaklava mud, which -it is impossible to describe, we pitched our camp on the -most favourable spot we could find, and close to a stream -of water; having indulged in the latter beverage very -copiously, with some hard biscuits, we turned into our -tent, always placing sentries around our camp. The flashes -from the guns of Sebastopol lighting up our camp, we lay -down as we did the night before, in our wet clothes, overcoat -and blanket. Our slumbers were frequently disturbed -during the night by the thundering of the guns of Sebastopol. -At 6 a.m. we tried to make a camp-fire, and get -some hot coffee previous to our departure, but we failed in -the attempt; several foraging parties scoured the neighbourhood -searching for some wood or brambles to make -a fire with, but could not find any; so we drank plenty -of water from the stream, and filled our kegs with the -blessed fluid. After eating some hard biscuit, we struck -our tents and resumed our march to the front. As we proceeded -through the "slough of despond," we marched -through the French camp, when the French soldiers turned -out and cheered us, their bands playing "God save the -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_151" id="Page_151">{151}</a></span> -Queen" as we passed their camp, which we responded to -in a most friendly manner. We arrived at the 4th Division, -to which we were posted, at two p.m., after wading -through slush and mud the whole way, sinking knee-deep -at every step, and were shown our camp grounds on Cathcart's -Hill, with the honour of being the front regiment -of the 4th Division.</p> - -<p>Before we had our tents pitched, two-thirds of the regiment -were detailed for the trenches that night; several men -reported themselves sick, having caught severe colds from -sleeping in their wet clothes on the damp ground the two -previous nights, together with the heavy fatiguing march -from Balaklava, on, I might say, an empty stomach, for -we had nothing to eat or drink from the time we disembarked, -except hard biscuit and cold water. We could not -eat raw pork just then, this told on the men's constitutions; -although their pluck was good they had to give in; they -were sent to the hospital tent. After we had finished tent-pitching, -I was anxious to see Sebastopol and its surroundings. -I went to the top of Cathcart's Hill, where I had a -splendid view along the whole line of trenches from Kamiesch -Bay to the Tchernaya River enclosing Sebastopol, -which shone white and clear in the sun. I could see a large -Russian camp defended by earth-works on the north side -of the harbour, and large masses of Russians on parade outside -the camp. At sun down the covering party were paraded -on the brigade grounds, and, after dark, marched for -the first time to face the Muscovite, a field officer in charge, -each party with their officers. Marching down, the Russians -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_152" id="Page_152">{152}</a></span> -opened a heavy fire; at every flash we all lay down -until the round shot passed over, in this way we dodged -them until we relieved the party in the trenches; during -the time of relieving, the enemy always opened a heavy -fire—they knew the time our relief took place after taking -charge of the trenches. One hundred men were told off -to build batteries in the second parallel, and cutting advancing -trenches. We were formed into gangs of twelve -men, each in charge of a non-commissioned officer, with -officers superintending the whole, the work having been -laid out by the Royal Engineers. We worked hard under -shot, shell, grape and canister, until twelve, when the -grog was served, each man getting a half gill of rum, -which gladdened our hearts and gave fresh strength to -proceed with our work. While we were working, a man -was placed on the look-out for the flashes of the guns, -and when he saw one gave the word "down," when we -lay down in the trench; if it was a shell, got behind the -traverse.</p> - -<p>The flashes from our guns and mortars gave us light to -carry on our work when the night was dark. In the -morning we felt hungry, but had nothing to eat or drink -except biscuit and cold water, unless we eat raw pork, -which some could not do then; a man does not know -what he can eat until he is driven to it, which was shown -afterwards. The Russians kept up a steady fire during -the night from the Garden and Crows' Nest batteries, -which our batteries responded to with a powerful fire. -During the day we tried several shots with the "Old -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_153" id="Page_153">{153}</a></span> -Brown Bess" at some working parties who were throwing -up earth-works about 800 yards distance, but could -not reach them. Oh, how I wished to have a good Enfield -rifle then instead of the smooth bore which we were armed -with. A Russian shell burst close to us, a splinter of -which struck one of our grenadiers named Chas. O'Maley, -causing a deep wound in his head; this was the first blood -shed in the regiment; his wound was dressed by the -doctor who was in attendance at the Green Hill trench. -Being relieved by a fresh party at sun-down we marched -to camp under the darkness of the evening. There we -indulged in our usual meal of raw pork, biscuits, and cold -water. Several parties had been foraging for wood, or -roots, or anything to make a fire, but could get nothing; -therefore we had to lie down in our tent, our feet to the -pole, knapsack under our head, and fully accoutred, with -our blankets round us on the wet ground, without a fire -or any warm food. We were never allowed to take off -our accoutrements at night. During the night an alarm -was given that the enemy had advanced on our trenches -in large force, when we turned out and marched down. -As we advanced on the trenches the cracking of musketry -and roaring of cannon was deafening, the flashes lighting -up the way as we doubled to the trenches. When we -reached the Green Hill trench, the enemy had been repulsed -with great loss; several Russians lay dead and wounded -on the field, and in the trenches our loss was comparatively -light, four men killed and nine wounded. We then -returned to camp and lay down in peace till morning, -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_154" id="Page_154">{154}</a></span> -wet and tired. At eight a.m., next morning, Lord Raglan -and his staff visited our camp, when the men turned out; -he inspected the camp and was well pleased with the appearance -of the men. After the usual breakfast of salt -pork and biscuit, all available men, after furnishing the -trenches, were employed in carrying round shot and shell -from the divisional depôt to the trenches.</p> - -<p>This was very hard work; each man carried a round -shot in a biscuit-bag on his back, sinking deep in the usual -mud at every step: this and dragging big guns into position -occupied the whole day. The sortie last night was -not on our trenches alone, on the left the enemy did more -damage; in front of the left attack there are some trenches -which run down the edge of the ravine from the harbour -which divides the town from the military barracks; the -continuation of this ravine divides the third division from -the French lines. In order to guard this ravine the sentries -of the French and English ought to be in communication. -The Russians followed this ravine and got past -our sentries, who took them to be French, as their officers -commanded their men in French, to throw our men off -their guard; in this way they succeeded in getting past -our sentries on the extreme left, bayoneted them and got -into the trenches before they were recognised as Russians, -killing and wounding a number, a major of the 50th among -the latter, and taking two officers and sixteen men prisoners. -When their treachery was detected, they were soon -driven back with considerable loss; several Russians were -found dead and wounded in the ravine. Next morning a -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_155" id="Page_155">{155}</a></span> -small party of six started off on a foraging <i>reconnaissance</i> -to the valley of the Tchernaya River in search of wood, -taking our water-keg straps with us; as we passed down -a deep ravine beyond Inkermann heights we saw lying in -the bottom of the ravine over twenty dead Russians who -were buried there, the little earth which they had been -covered with was washed away by the heavy rains; they -were lying in their clothes as they were shot, presenting -a most ghastly spectacle. We proceeded to an old bridge, -climbing up the side of a steep hill, on the top of which -was a Russian battery. We commenced cutting the trees -and bushes which grew on the hill side and throwing them -down to the bottom. We were not long cutting as much -as our straps would hold. We tied up our bundles and -quietly escaped along the edge of the ravine lest the Russians -might detect us; if they did, it was the last of us, -we were close under their batteries but we got away safely. -When we got to our camp there were glad faces when -they saw the loads of wood; it was soon chopped up by -the men, while others lit the fire and filled the camp-kettles -with pork and put them on the fire. The smoke -from the fires caused many of the officers to come and -see what was up, they were agreeably surprised to see the -fires and the camp-kettles boiling. After we had cooked -a sufficient quantity of salt beef and pork and prepared -coffee, we invited the officers to use the fires, which invitation -they most thankfully accepted. We had plenty -of hot coffee, salt beef and pork that day, skimming the fat -and stowing it away for future use, When the cooking was -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_157" id="Page_157">{157}</a></span> -over we put out the fires, collecting the embers together -with the wood we had left to cook our breakfast; this -was the first hot food we tasted since our disembarkation -at Balaklava. We had hard frost last night and were -employed getting up guns and mortars to the front; if -this frost continues we will soon have all the guns and -mortars in position.</p> - -<div class="image-center"> - <img src="images/pl-156.jpg" width="400" height="632" alt="pl-156"/> - <div class="caption"> - <p class="small">A WONDERFUL ESCAPE.</p> - </div> -</div> - -<p>The Russian batteries were nearly silent last night on -our attack, but a brisk fire was kept up on the right, -Colonel Macpherson, C.B., has been promoted to Brigadier -in the 4th Division, and Colonel Cole takes command of -the 17th Regiment; Sir Edmund Lyons has taken command -of the fleet, vice Admiral Dundas who proceeds to -Constantinople. Our regiment is hard worked; we find -two-thirds of the regiment for the trenches every night, -the others of the division being reduced by sickness and -death, and ere long we will have many sick too, if things -go on as they are at present. Parading for the trenches -yesterday evening, ten men reported sick with dysentery, -brought on by exposure and lying on the wet ground in -damp clothing, and want of warm food; they were admitted -into the hospital tent.</p> - -<p>All the Russians seem to think of, is getting up guns in -position in every possible direction along our approaches. -Last night in carrying earth to a battery on the left of -second parallel, I picked from among the rocks something -from a hole and thought it was a stone; in attempting to -lift it, I stuck my fingers into a dead man's eyes: my -sense of smell detected the mistake, I stepped back to -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_158" id="Page_158">{158}</a></span> -wheeling distance, the smell was abominable; ever since, -when I think of it I fancy I smell it. I was orderly next -day. An orderly from each tent collects the water kegs of -their tent, and takes them down to a ravine near the -Woronzoff road where a small stream of water, the thickness -of a ramrod, springs from a fissure in the rock; this -spring supplies the 2nd, 4th and Light Divisions, as well as -a division of the French and Turks, with water; and as -the orderly men arrive, they fall in rear of each other, -forming a line waiting for their turn, and not unfrequently -the French and English fight for the first turn, the Turks -sitting on a stone at a distance, looking on, and waiting -till the last. I saw one of our men and a big French Dragoon -fighting with their fists, when the soldier beat the -Frenchman, of course, knocking him down several times; -afterwards the French kept away until our men got -served.</p> - -<p>Little was done in camp to-day, the state of the roads -presented the greatest obstacles to the transport of shot -and shell, and all that could be effected was to get up -scanty supplies of pork, beef, biscuit, and rum, to our -camp; the rain, sleet, and snow, fell heavily. The cold, -wet, and slush in and round camp is truly fearful.</p> - -<p>A captain of the Royal Artillery was found dead in his -tent, suffocated by the fumes of a charcoal fire he had -lighted.</p> - -<p>Christmas and New Year's day are passed, and we have -had a cold, dreary, sloppy, wet and hungry Christmas and -New Year; many of our men going to hospital and dying -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_159" id="Page_159">{159}</a></span> -there. Their illness had been caused by hard work in -bad weather, and by exposure to wet without any protection. -Just think what a tent is, pitched on wet, muddy -ground, with the rain beating through the canvas, into -which sixteen hungry men, drenched to the skin, have to -creep for shelter, after twenty-four hours in the trenches -up to their knees in slush, and then reflect what state -we must be in, after a night spent in such shelter, lying -down without any change of clothing, and as close as we -can stow, in wet blankets covered with mud. It rained -in torrents all last night and to-day, and floods of mud -are flowing through the floors of our tents, making their -way down the hill-side; the roads are so bad as to cut -off supplies to the camp, and we are accordingly placed -on half rations; the horses and mules get stuck in the -mud bringing up provisions from Balaklava, and there -they lie and die, and the men are dying off faster than -the horses, and the Turks dying by the dozen.</p> - -<p>Hostilities are almost at a standstill in the trenches; -the men are too feeble to work the guns. It is reported -the Russians are suffering still more than we are, but -they are more numerous, and can afford to lose twenty to -our one.</p> - -<p class="center">THE CRIMEAN WAR.</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - -<div class="stanza"> -<div class="verse">When from Balaklava to the front we go,</div> -<div class="verse">The Chersonese are covered with mud and snow,</div> -<div class="verse">Where the horse, the mule, and the Turk have stuck,</div> -<div class="verse">Transporting provisions for our British pluck.</div> -</div> - -<div class="stanza"> -<div class="pagenum"><a name="Page_160" id="Page_160">{160}</a></div> -<div class="verse">Where the tents are blown down with the furious blast,</div> -<div class="verse">And the rain pours down immensely fast,</div> -<div class="verse">And the shivering soldier in the trenches stood,</div> -<div class="verse">With his dripping clothes to chill his blood.</div> -</div> - -<div class="stanza"> -<div class="verse">And the noble officer brought up with care,</div> -<div class="verse">In his wet and dismal tent, without dread or fear;</div> -<div class="verse">Or a covering party with their rifles in hand,</div> -<div class="verse">Marching to the trenches a melancholy band.</div> -</div> - -<div class="stanza"> -<div class="verse">Or, when in camp without fire or mill,</div> -<div class="verse">To roast their coffee or to grind it, still</div> -<div class="verse">The commissariat to economise expense,</div> -<div class="verse">Issued the troops green coffee! to show their sense.</div> -</div> - -<div class="stanza"> -<div class="verse">To roast and grind as best they could,</div> -<div class="verse">Issuing neither mill nor wood;</div> -<div class="verse">Our lines of soldiers marching rank entire,</div> -<div class="verse">Bearing shot and shell, too, at the Russians' fire.</div> -</div> - -<div class="stanza"> -<div class="verse">Or the distant Cossack over the hills doth glow,</div> -<div class="verse">As winter wraps the Tchernaya Valley with snow,</div> -<div class="verse">And Prince Menschikoff in the Great Redan he stood,</div> -<div class="verse">Giving the Muscovites orders for to shed our blood.</div> -</div> - -<div class="stanza"> -<div class="verse">And Sir Wm. Codrington on Cathcart's Hill,</div> -<div class="verse">Giving forth his orders to his gallant men,</div> -<div class="verse">Yonder the British Navy riding in the gale,</div> -<div class="verse">Idly waiting orders to spread sail.</div> -</div> - -</div> -</div> - -<div class="right2 small smcap">T. Faughnan.</div> - -<div class="image-center"> - <img src="images/dec-5.jpg" width="150" height="54" alt="dec"/> -</div> - -<div> - -<div class="pagenum"><a name="Page_161" id="Page_161">{161}</a></div> - -<div class="image-center"> - <img src="images/bar-3.jpg" width="350" height="60" alt="bar"/> -</div> - -<h2>CHAPTER XV.</h2> - -<p class="header">MARCH TO BALAKLAVA—RETURN—MEN GO BARE-FOOTED—SNOW FIVE -FEET DEEP—LONG BOOTS—HARD FROST—CAVALRY DIVISION—BURIAL -GROUND—SOLITARY PROCESSION—MEN FROZEN—I BUILT A HUT—GREEN -COFFEE—WINTRY APPEARANCE—DEAD HORSES—63RD -REGIMENT—CARRYING PROVISIONS—FRENCH SICK.</p> - -</div> - -<div> - <img class="drop-cap" src="images/drop-j.jpg" width="53" height="80" alt="j"/> -</div> - -<p class="drop-cap"><span class="uppercase">January</span> -6th, Captain John Croker, with six men of -his company, went down to Balaklava for some -cooked pork, which had been kindly sent out from England -to us. The captain took a mule to carry back a bag -of charcoal. After we got the pork from the steamer, and -the captain his charcoal on the mule's back, we started -for camp. We had proceeded about three miles when we -got faint with hunger, weary and wet, the mud being knee -deep, and the load sinking us into the mire at every step. -We requested the captain to let us have some of the pork -to eat, this he willingly complied with, as he was hungry -himself. We opened the bags and divided a four pound -piece between every two men, the captain taking his -share also; this gave us new strength to accomplish our -task, and also to help the mule out of the slough. Sleet, -snow and rain beat in our faces all the way; we did not -reach camp till twelve o'clock that night. This was the -hardest fatigue—up to our knees in mud with a heavy load -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_162" id="Page_162">{162}</a></span> -on our backs—I ever performed. After we got to camp the -captain gave us each a glass of Hennessey's brandy from -a case which he got out from Ireland as a Christmas-box. -I believe that brandy saved us from a severe illness, as we -had to lie down in our wet clothes. As we were coming -up from Balaklava, we saw the 39th Regiment which had -just landed, preparing to join the camp before Sebastopol. -They were well provided against the severity of the -weather; they had all received warm clothing, and looked -comfortable in their fur caps and long boots; but the 17th -Regiment had not received a single article of warm clothing -yet. Our old clothes are in rags and tatters, even our -boots are scarcely any protection, the leather having -shrunk with the continual wet, and the men's feet having -swelled with the cold, so that some men could not get their -boots on and had to go in the trenches and about the -camp bare-footed; this is hard to believe, but nevertheless -it is true. January 9th. It had been snowing for -the last three days, and this morning the whole of the -mountains over Balaklava and along the valley of the -Tchernaya River are clothed in a sheet of white, the -snow being on the ground to the depth of three feet and -in some places over five feet; the cold was increased by -a piercing high wind which blew into our very marrow -bones. If we were only well clad this weather would, -however, be far more healthy than the wet and storm we -have had recently, but, alas, we are not properly provided -with outer garments to resist the severity of the Crimean -winter. I cannot conceive greater hardship than to stand -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_163" id="Page_163">{163}</a></span> -in the trenches twenty-four hours, then return cramped -and nearly frozen, to our damp, cheerless tents to find that -there is no fire nor wood to cook any victuals, nor even a -drink of warm coffee. What we require most of all are -long boots to protect our feet and legs; most of the officers -have got long boots, and find them invaluable. Our -mitts are worn out and unserviceable; I made a pair out -of a piece of my blanket, which I find answers the purpose -admirably, of course it was robbing Peter to pay -Paul; it shortened my blanket somewhat. Several men, -however, have followed my example.</p> - -<p>It has been freezing extremely hard these two last -nights, and this morning a man was found frozen in my -tent. His name was George Murphin, he was a good -soldier; he lay down, as we all did, and went to sleep—and -never woke. When the orderly was rousing the -men, this man was found frozen stiff in death. There has -been over one hundred men admitted into hospital from -the trenches these last twenty-four hours, seized with -cramps and nearly frozen—all from the want of clothing. -The cavalry division lost about fifty horses within the -last three days, and I dread to think of the number of -men who will die if this weather continues long. The -commissariat mules and horses are dying off very fast, -and the men seem likely to follow, if there is not something -done soon to protect the army from the inclemency -of the weather, of which we are more afraid than of the -Russians. It is the wish of every officer and man in the -camp that Lord Raglan would march the whole army -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_164" id="Page_164">{164}</a></span> -against Sebastopol, and let us take it or die in the attempt—we -had better die in battle than die with cold, -starvation and sickness. We are of opinion that we -would not lose so many men in taking it as we are now -losing daily by sickness and the want of food and clothes. -A new burial ground having been opened about two -hundred yards to the right front of our regiment, on the -side of the hill, frequently may be seen passing our tents, -every day, four soldiers slowly winding their way towards -this grave-yard, with a corpse sewed up in a -blanket, carried on a stretcher on the men's shoulders—no -person accompanying the solitary funeral—and buried -without the ordinary military honours of three rounds of -blank fired over him. The burials are too numerous to -pay the usual honours, besides, we have not the men to -spare; all available for duty are either in the trenches or -carrying shot, shell or provisions. The men's spirits are -broken down, and they march along with a load on their -back, in solemn silence, regardless of anything, not even -looking to the right or left, resigning themselves to death -which they daily expect, who is following quickly in -their footsteps, not by shot from the Russians, but by a -slower and surer torture—starvation and cold. When I -saw so many men freezing to death, I began to talk to -myself thus, "Tom Faughnan, are you going to make no -exertion to save yourself from being frozen to death, as -some of your comrades have been, and are now buried -yonder, on the hill-side? If you get shot by the enemy it is -what you expected when you came out here, and is a soldier's -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_165" id="Page_165">{165}</a></span> -death, fighting the battles for the honour and glory of -your Queen and country." As I was walking round the -tent-pole to keep my blood in circulation, the temperature -being many degrees below zero, I held the above soliloquy. -A happy thought struck me, and I carried it out, -which I believe saved my life. I took a pick-axe and shovel -and commenced to build a hut in rear of the company's -tents. I worked at it every spare moment until I had a -hole dug nine feet long by six wide, and four feet deep, -cutting the inside walls straight down, and facing them -with stones to a height of two feet above the ground, -which left the inside of the hut six feet high, building a -fireplace and chimney in the end. I then got my comrade, -Dandy Russell, to accompany me to the old bridge at the -Tchernaya River, where I climbed up a steep hill, close -to a Russian battery, where we got wood on a former occasion, -and there I got enough of wood to roof my hut. -Having filled our straps with the best we could find, we -started for our camp, escaping the Russians who were just -above us on the hill. When we got to camp I commenced -to roof the hut, cutting the rafters and tying them at -the top with some gads made out of willows cut for that -purpose. Having the rafters secured along the top, I -stretched some small sticks along the sides of the roof, -securing them also, and then laying branches over all. I -then cut sods in a ravine, carried them to the hut, laid -them on the top of the branches, and covered the whole -with earth, smoothing it over with the back of the spade, -as I would a potato pit in Ireland, to throw off the rain, -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_166" id="Page_166">{166}</a></span> -cutting a trench round it to carry off the water. I made -steps going down, and I got a flag to fit the door, so my -Irish experience stood to me here. We frequently went to -the old bridge for wood, but ran the risk of being shot by -the Russians every time. By this means we managed to -get wood enough to keep a fire in our hut, and were comfortable -while the men were freezing to death in their -tents. Dandy and I managed to get on trench duty alternately, -so as to leave one of us to look after the hut, -and prepare the meals for the other after coming off trench -duty.</p> - -<p>Having been served with green coffee by the commissariat, -and having no means of roasting or grinding it, we -had accumulated a large bagful. Now we procured the -half of a large exploded shell, and with a nine pound shot -we ground the coffee in the shell, after roasting it on a -frying pan; most of the men threw their green coffee away, -having no means of roasting or grinding. There has been -a good deal of firing going on between the French and -Russians on the right attack, and the Grenadier Guards -had it very hot last night, from a new masked battery -the Russians opened on the right near Canrobert's Redoubt. -There are three large columns of Russians visible -opposite Inkerman on the north side of the Tchernaya, -and their movements are very mysterious. They have sent -a large body of cavalry to the east of the valley of Balaklava, -and at the same time a body of infantry moved off -towards the north. The scenery of our camp-ground and -the country has now assumed a truly wintry aspect. The -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_167" id="Page_167">{167}</a></span> -lofty peaks and ridges which close up the valley of Balaklava -are covered with snow, which gives them the appearance -of great height; in the valley and plateau the snow -is over three feet deep, and streaked by lines of men and -horses carrying up provisions to the camp. The number -of dead horses on the wayside increases daily, every slough -across the path is marked by a dead horse or mule. At the -present rate of mortality the whole division, which can -only muster about 600 horses, will be almost extinct in -one month more. I went over the camp of the 63rd -Regiment, to see a first cousin of mine, named Philip -McGurn. I was sorry to learn that he had been severely -wounded in the thigh by a piece of a shell, and was sent -down to Scutari hospital. The regiment could only muster -twelve men for duty, the remainder were either killed -or died from sickness in hospital. The 46th Regiment have -only about fifty men fit for duty; the Scots Fusilier -Guards have lost, since they came out, upwards of 1000 -men, and can now only muster about three hundred on -parade; and many other regiments in a like proportion.</p> - -<p>The duty of carrying provisions and rum from Balaklava -to the front is very trying on the men; every two -men carry a beaker of rum, biscuit or pork, slung from -a pole between them; they march about six miles in this -manner, from Balaklava to Head Quarters; horses cannot -do this trying work, for they cannot keep their legs, -and almost every hundred yards along the way is marked -by the carcase of one of these animals. I passed through -the French Camp, on my way foraging for wood, and -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_168" id="Page_168">{168}</a></span> -went into several of the men's tents, and was surprised -to see the misery they were in. It must not be inferred -that the French soldiers are healthy, whilst we are all -sickly. I was astonished to see so many lying sick in -their tents, and dying with dysentery, diarrhœa, scurvy, -and pulmonary complaints. Their men were allowed to -lie sick in their tents, which differ from us very much; -when our men get sick, they are sent to hospital at once, -and there attended by a doctor.</p> - -<p>January 14th.—It is thawing fast to-day, and the roads -are resuming their former sloppy state, which has increased -the difficulties of supplying the men considerably.</p> - -<p>The cavalry are getting up sheds for their horses, and -sheep-skin coats have been distributed to some of the -men. I wonder when the 17th Regiment are going to -get any warm clothing, or sheep-skin coats? Some officers -it is true, have got some warm jackets, and not before -they wanted them. This week large quantities of clothing -were served to some of the regiments. It must not, however, -be imagined that the supplies sent up are equal -to the demand; several regiments have not received a stitch -yet, although large quantities have been sent out from -England. Whose fault is it? The sick in the hospitals, -on the hill tops, suffer severely from cold, and the snow -blows into their very blankets. However, such supplies -as the men have had prove of the greatest service, and -have saved many lives. Consider what men suffer with -snow three feet deep about the tents. The men scarcely -know what fuel is in many regiments; they break up -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_169" id="Page_169">{169}</a></span> -empty pork barrels and anything that will burn to cook -their meals, or grub into the earth for roots and stumps -to make a fire. This is enough to make the poor, worn-out, -exhausted soldier despair before he sinks to rest; -sigh that he cannot share the sure triumph and certain -honour and glories of the day when our flag shall wave -from the citadel of Sebastopol! Although our patience -is sorely tried, yet there is no deep despair here among -the troops; no one for an instant feels the slightest doubt -of ultimate success.</p> - -<p>If British courage, daring, bravery and a strong arm in -the fight, contempt of death and love for our Most -Gracious Sovereign Lady the Queen and our country; if -honour and glory could have won Sebastopol, it had been -ours long ago, and may be ours at any time. We are prepared -for a dreadful sacrifice, and not one of us for -an instant has the least misgiving as to the result. But -let our country at least feel that the soldiers now lying -on the wet ground before Sebastopol, starving and in -rags, deserve at her hands the greenest and the brightest -laurels and rewards, and we trust that she may be prepared -to reward those gallant, noble officers and soldiers, -who in such a position deserve the highest honour she can -confer upon them. Let England know them, as the -descendants of that glorious army (led by their illustrious -chief His Grace the Duke of Wellington) who thwarted -the great Buonaparte in Spain and Portugal, who fought -at Quatre-Bras, Ligny, and Waterloo; and let England -recollect that in fighting her battles against a powerful -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_170" id="Page_170">{170}</a></span> -enemy at that time, we have now to maintain a struggle -with foes still more stubborn and barbarous, with a terrible -climate, and if they triumphed over the one she -may rest assured, as we are, that she will triumph over -the other.</p> - -<p>With regard to the prospects of the Russians, there can -be no doubt that means of communication exist between -Inkerman and Sebastopol along the south banks of the -estuary of the Tchernaya. It is necessary that more -decisive steps be taken to intercept supplies for their -garrison, or to harass them more in their attempts to -bring provisions to the city. After we seized the Woronzoff -road, it was thought that no other means of approach, -except by a mountain path, existed between Simpheropol -and Sebastopol, on the south side. There can be no -doubt that another road has been found out, which -enables them to go from Inkerman along the base of the -heights on the southern side, and traverse the ravines -which lead along the banks of the river into the city.</p> - -<p>Waggons can be seen every day coming down from the -heights over the Tchernaya river toward Sebastopol, and -large bodies of the enemy are visible, passing frequently -and disappearing mysteriously into a subterranean passage -leading to the citadel.</p> - -<div> - -<div class="pagenum"><a name="Page_171" id="Page_171">{171}</a></div> - -<div class="image-center"> - <img src="images/bar-1.jpg" width="350" height="60" alt="bar"/> -</div> - -<h2>CHAPTER XVI.</h2> - -<p class="header">TRENCHES—CANAL OF MUD—RUSSIAN NEW YEAR—HEAVY FIRE—ON -SENTRY—THE SORTIE—OLD BROWN BESS—SORTIE—ARRIVAL IN -CAMP—NEW STYLE OF CANDLE—FLINT AND STEEL—MAKING COFFEE—HEAVY -SNOW—NO FIRE—WARM CLOTHING—SHOT AND SHELL.</p> - -</div> - -<div> - <img class="drop-cap" src="images/drop-j.jpg" width="53" height="80" alt="j"/> -</div> - -<p class="drop-cap"><span class="uppercase">January</span> -16th.—A strong party of the 17th Regiment -marched to the trenches yesterday evening, -and in going down got wet to the skin. A heavy thaw -set in, and the trenches became a canal of mud; when -we arrived, we remarked that the Russians were very active -inside the town, and had lighted watchfires on the -north side, and illuminated the heights over the Tchernaya -with rows of lights, in the form of a cross, which -shone brilliantly through the darkness of the cold, wet, -and damp winter's night. They were evidently celebrating -their new year; light shone from the windows of most -of the houses and public buildings. Our lonely sentries -lying on the ground in front of our advanced trench, our -muskets loaded and capped, with a watchful eye on every -embrasure in front of us; we fancied that the Russians in -Sebastopol tried to annoy us with their lights and gaiety. -At midnight all the church bells in the city began ringing; -it was evident that a solemn religious ceremony was -about to take place. We were all warned to be on the -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_172" id="Page_172">{172}</a></span> -alert, and all our advanced posts were strengthened accordingly. -After the people came out of the churches, -about one o'clock in the morning, they gave a loud cheer; -our sailors and artillery who manned the guns in our -batteries, responded by opening a heavy fire on them, as -did also the French on our right and left, when the Russians -in return began one of the fiercest cannonades along -their position that we have yet heard; their batteries -vomited forth floods of flame, which broke through the -smoke as lightning through the thunder-cloud, and we -could see distinctly the houses and buildings in the city, -and their batteries crowded with soldiers. The roaring -of round shot, whistling and bursting of shells, -filled the intervals between the deafening roll of big -guns. The round shot passed over our trenches rapidly, -ploughing up the ground into furrows as they passed us -by, or striking into our parapet with a thud. Our "Blue -Jackets" and artillery had to shelter themselves closely -under their batteries, and could barely reply to the volleys -which ploughed up our parapets, knocking sandbags, -gabions, and fascines all about the men's heads, and not -unfrequently knocking some of them off; nevertheless -they always laid their guns correctly, sending the destructive -missile into the embrasure with a vengeance. -While the firing was going on a strong body of the enemy -had been pushed up the hill towards our works in front, -on the flank of the left attack. I was one of a chain of -sentries, at twelve paces apart, lying down fifty yards in -front of our advanced trench. When we saw a strong -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_173" id="Page_173">{173}</a></span> -column of Russians coming out of their batteries and advancing -up the hill, we passed the word to each other, -when the line of sentries fired on them and retreated into -the trench, giving the alarm to our men, the field officer -in charge sending back to the other parallels for reinforcements, -which arrived in good time to assist us in driving -the Russians from our works. In the meantime, the -enemy had advanced into our trenches, notwithstanding -we kept blazing at them during their advance, and standing -against them, on the escarpment of our trench, with -our bayonets at the charge. They forced into our trench -in large numbers, when we had a desperate hand-to-hand -fight; we were completely jammed together, so that as we -pulled the bayonet out of one we knocked another over -with the butt end of our musket.</p> - -<p>The officers fought bravely, cutting the Russians down -with every stroke. One officer in cutting a Russian broke -his sword, which nearly cost him his life, only for one of our -men guarding off a stab from a Russian bayonet, he would -have been <i>hors-de-combat</i>. He soon picked up a musket, -however, and fought bravely with it. I was close to him -as he floored the Russians all around him. I can assure -you, gentle reader, that we all fought as becometh -British soldiers, though the odds against us were ten to -one. When the enemy saw the reinforcements coming, -they began to retreat by odd ones, until at last the -whole of them retired toward their outworks in double -time. We fired rapidly after them, giving them chase up -to their very batteries, and engaging with them again in -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_174" id="Page_174">{174}</a></span> -the grave-yard close to the careening battery, where we -had a very hard fight amongst the tombstones. Oh! if -we had the Enfield rifle, instead of the "Old Brown -Bess." However, we closed round them in the grave-yard, -dislodging them from behind the tomb-stones, where they -took refuge, cutting off three of their party whom we -took prisoners, besides wounded men we picked up on the -field and in the trenches, sending the latter to the hospital, -and the former on board the fleet. In this affair, two -officers and eighteen men were wounded, and six men -killed.</p> - -<p>The French had also to resist a strong sortie at the -same time, and drove them back with great loss, and in -pursuit got inside the Russian advanced batteries, where -they had a hand-to-hand fight, and by great valour succeeded -in fighting their way clear of the enemy, and returned -to their own trenches. At daylight all was quiet, -except an odd shot now and then as a reminder. Having -been relieved that evening by the 21st Fusiliers, we arrived -in camp completely exhausted with hunger, wet and -hard fighting, our clothes being saturated, it having -thawed in the night, and now turned round to freeze, -stiffening our clothes with icicles, the noise of which, as -we marched along, reminded us of the ancient warriors in -coats of mail. When I reached my hut, Dandy was -there, but no fire,—our wood had been used up; he had -been roused up in the night to reinforce the trenches, and -carrying shot during the day, he was as weary as I was. -How to get a drink of hot coffee was the next thought -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_175" id="Page_175">{175}</a></span> -which troubled me, I wanted it badly indeed. What did -I do? I tore a strip off the nether end of my shirt, set it -on an empty blacking-tin with some pork fat, and lit it -with a flint and steel which I always carried in my pack -(our matches being too damp to light, and besides they -were very scarce), set my canteen over the blaze with a -little water in it at first, making the coffee after the -water boiled, then adding more water; we then fried some -biscuits in pork fat over the blaze. This new invention -proved very useful afterwards, not only to Dandy and -myself, but to the officers and men of the regiment; you -can scarcely imagine how quick water will boil over a -blaze of this kind.</p> - -<p>January 19th. Frost continues with frequent showers of -snow, which enables us to get up provisions. The artillery -were employed to-day with their waggons carrying -up shot, shell, and powder to the depôt.</p> - -<p>January 20th. We had a heavy fall of snow during the -night; it is now four feet deep over the plain. The preparations -for a general bombardment are progressing rapidly; -upwards of seventy big guns and mortars, with sea service -siege guns, are all up at the depôt, and if this frost lasts, -will be in the batteries very shortly, if the frost and snow -enable us to get up heavy guns and mortars. Several men -have been frozen in their tents, and several men have been -sent to hospital from the trenches with severe frost bites -and suffering from bitter cold wind and frost. When a -path has been once broken through the snow, men -and horses can get along much more easily than to -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_176" id="Page_176">{176}</a></span> -wade through the deep mud as heretofore, but the temperature -is very trying in the tents, particularly when -we have no wood to make a fire. Many regiments -have been served out with fur coats, long boots, mitts, -guernseys, and flannel waistbands and socks. But alas, -none of these needful articles have reached the 17th -Regiment yet, except the men in hospital, who have -received a few articles of warm clothing. It is a most -melancholy subject for reflection to see our present army. -There is scarcely a regiment to be recognised now, save by -its well known camp-ground. The officers cannot be distinguished -from the privates, unless when they wear their -swords. What a harvest death has reaped, and many -more are ripe for the sickle. It is sad to see the noble -officers who have been brought up in luxury sharing the -same fate as the private soldiers. I went into an officer's -tent the other day, and I was sorry to see him (Lieutenant -Brinkman) sitting in his tent shivering with cold and -trying to cut out a pair of leggings off the end of his -blanket. As I helped him to cut them out, he says: -"Faughnan, they may talk at home about us noble officers -of the British army, and imagine us sitting in a snug -tent with warm clothing and gorgeous uniforms, partaking -of the fare that England has generously sent out here -to her gallant officers and soldiers, but which none of us -have yet received, and I am afraid never will, if this weather -lasts long. It would be more comfortable to be a -sweep in London than an officer out here."</p> - -<p>We had 400 men employed to-day January 29th, carrying -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_177" id="Page_177">{177}</a></span> -shot and shell from the depôt to the trenches. The snow -fell during the night and covered the ground four feet -deep, but the cold wind drifted it to the depth of six feet -in some places. The wind blew so bitterly cold that the -mules and horses refused to face it; but the men came -trudging along in a dreary string, and there was something -mournful in the aspect of the long lines moving -across the expanse of glittering snow. When these men -came back to camp they had very blue noses and pale -faces; and as to their clothes, what would the people of -England have thought if they beheld their gallant army! -most of the officers as ragged as the men; and many officers -have been crippled by frost and obliged to go on -leave with their feet badly frostbitten. Several men go -about barefooted, up to their knees in snow; they could -not get their frozen boots on their swelled feet. There -was very severe frost last night, January 23rd.</p> - -<p>The activity of the heads of departments which has -been recently observable, is becoming more developed -every day. Our quartermaster has received to-day, -among other useful things for the regiment, a supply of -Enfield rifles, to replace the "Old Brown Bess;" they -will be served out to the men to-morrow; also a quantity -of sheepskin jackets, long boots, guernseys, flannel waist -bands, mitts, and fur caps. We are hard worked bringing -these articles up to camp; we are doing the work of commissariat -mules. As we were coming up we passed a -large number of sick and dying men who were sent down -to Balaklava on mules and bat horses; they formed one -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_178" id="Page_178">{178}</a></span> -of the most ghastly processions that could be imagined; -many of these men were all but dead, with closed eyes, -open mouths, and pale haggard faces; they were borne -along two on each mule, one on each side, back to back. -One of them died on the way down, his corpse looked -most ghastly. Strapped upright to the seat, the legs -hanging down stiff, the eyes staring wide open, the head -and body nodding with frightful mockery of life at each -stride of the mule over the broken ground. As the dead -man passed, the only remarks our men made were, "there -is one more poor fellow out of pain at any rate." There -were several cases of frost-bite among them, but they all -seemed alike on the verge of death. We arrived at the -front by six p.m.; the road being hard, we made rapid -progress to get to camp by daylight. Next morning -January 24th, we handed over to the quartermaster -the old Brown Bess, and received a splendid Enfield -rifle in its stead; we also received one pair of long boots, -one fur cap each, and several received sheepskin coats, -mitts, guernseys, flannel bands, and socks, with a few large -overcoats for the sentries. It would astonish a stranger -to go from Balaklava to the front to see the number of -dead horses and mules along the wayside; in every hole -are the remains of these animals torn by dogs and vultures. -The attitudes of some of the skeletons were curious; -some have dropped dead and are frozen stiff as they -fell; others seem struggling to rise from their miry grave; -most of these carcasses have been skinned by the Turks -and French, who use the hides to cover their huts. About -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_179" id="Page_179">{179}</a></span> -five miles of the country are dotted all over with these -carcasses, in every stage of decay. Were it summer time, -around Balaklava would be a great pest-house, full of festering -carcasses of dead mules and horses. The evening -after we were served out with new rifles, long boots and -fur caps, the 17th Regiment furnished 400 men for the -trenches. The weather was clear, dry and cold, but we do -not care now for the cold, since we got our long boots, fur -caps, and warm clothing to protect us from the sharp -biting frost. We are in splendid spirits, and felt comfortable -during the night in our new boots and fur caps. -After we arrived in the trenches, the Russians opened a -storm of musketry on us, as if they knew we were armed -with the Enfield rifle, and were anxious for us to try it, -which we soon did, to their astonishment. The Russian -fire was particularly directed against our works the whole -night; after daylight the firing recommenced with great -vigour, all along our lines. There could be no less than -3000 men engaged on each side, firing as hard as they -could pull a trigger; the lines were marked by thick, curling -smoke. The fire slackened on both sides about ten -o'clock. Not a night now passes without severe rifle-shooting -from behind the parapets, and between the lines. -Our works are pushed almost within one hundred and -fifty yards of the Russian batteries, and on the left almost -into the town, and its suburbs, but the ruined houses -of these suburbs are turned into defences for their sharpshooters, -and the town itself is almost one formidable -battery, from the glacis to the ridge over the sea, on -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_180" id="Page_180">{180}</a></span> -which the south side of the town is situated. Our batteries -are in good order, and ready for the heavy siege-guns, -which can be put into them in a few days; as the -ground is hard we can easily get them into position. In -the skirmish last night, one Russian officer was taken prisoner -on the right attack by the 47th Regiment, who manned -the trenches. We have received several deserters from the -Russians within the last week, who gave a fearful account -of how the Russians are suffering from cold and hunger; -they showed us some hard black bread they brought with -them in their haversacks. It is evident that the struggle -between us and the Russians will soon be renewed with -greater vigour than before; the clear frosty days and -nights have given hearts and spirits to our men, but the -Russians have also derived advantage from the improved -condition of the roads and country. We hear they have -thrown large quantities of stores into the garrison -recently.</p> - -<p>When I returned from the trenches Dandy had plenty -of hot coffee and fried biscuits ready for me, as well as an -extra gill of hot rum. We find our hut very comfortable -these cold frosty nights, and we now get two nights off -trench duty. Notwithstanding the clear frosty weather, -the transport of clothes, fuel and provisions entails considerable -hardships on our men; the sick make little progress -towards recovery, and the number of them sent -down to Balaklava every day is a proof of the unsatisfactory -condition of the health of our army. Mules and -horses have been sent down to Balaklava for warm clothing -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_181" id="Page_181">{181}</a></span> -for those regiments whose men are nearly all sick. -The coffee, for the first time, has been issued to us roasted, -which we find a great luxury compared to how we have -been getting it; vegetables, however, are greatly needed, -picks, spades, shovels and billhooks are in much request, -and are greatly needed to clear the camp, dig graves and -chop wood, when we get any, but we have got none as -yet.</p> - -<div class="image-center"> - <img src="images/dec-4.jpg" width="120" height="62" alt="dec"/> -</div> - -<div> - -<div class="pagenum"><a name="Page_182" id="Page_182">{182}</a></div> - -<div class="image-center"> - <img src="images/bar-5.jpg" width="350" height="58" alt="bar"/> -</div> - -<h2>CHAPTER XVII.</h2> - -<p class="header">THE RAILWAY—LORD RAGLAN—COSSACKS—THE NAVVIES—RUSSIAN -DESERTERS—THE RAILWAY.</p> - -</div> - -<div> - <img class="drop-cap" src="images/drop-t.jpg" width="51" height="80" alt="t"/> -</div> - -<p class="drop-cap"><span class="uppercase">The</span> -railway from Balaklava to the front, under -Mr. Doyne, C.E., is making rapid progress; about -two miles of rails have been laid down. It winds its -way from the post-office in Balaklava towards Kadikoi, -passing by Mrs. Seacoles' well known door (the -half-way house), and is graded as far as the 4th division. -The sleepers are on the ground, and will be laid in the -course of two weeks. A stationary engine has been placed -on the hill above the Kadikoi, which pulls the trucks up -from Balaklava; the Turks are astonished by the puffs -of steam from its iron lungs, and its shrieks and screams -as it is put in motion by the engineers, to their great -wonder and astonishment.</p> - -<p>Lord Raglan visited Balaklava to-day and inspected -the railway, with which he was well pleased; he was -accompanied by several staff officers. After inspecting the -progress and conditions of various departments in the -town, he went on board a man-of-war in the harbour, to -visit some sick soldiers who were going down to Scutari. -He returned to Head Quarters at six o'clock. I am sorry -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_183" id="Page_183">{183}</a></span> -that sickness does not diminish, dysentery and diarrhœa -seem on the increase every day, and, I am afraid that -scurvy is beginning to show itself among the troops. It -is no wonder that the men get scurvy, living on salt -rations and hard biscuits without any vegetables, sleeping -in their clothes; without a chance to wash themselves or -change their clothes; water being so scarce we cannot -wash our linen. I refrain from describing the state of the -army for the want of clean linen or water to wash with; -suffice it to say that several new flannel waist bands -served to the men were thrown away, and can be seen on -the camp ground, occupied by a large army in skirmishing -order. I took my canteen, water-keg and soap down -to the spring one day to wash my linen; I waited two -hours for my turn, after which I filled my canteen and -water-keg. I then washed my clothes on a flat stone, then -waited two hours more for water to rinse them, making -four hours in all I had to wait. The reader can understand -what difficulty the men have to keep themselves -clean.</p> - -<p>February 21st. The Russians made a strong sortie on -the British lines last night, and were repulsed with considerable -loss; the light division had six men killed and -ten wounded.</p> - -<p>The Cossacks, on the hills beyond Inkerman, have -nearly disappeared and there are no indications that they -intend to occupy the hills again, or construct batteries -there as was supposed. The greatest secrecy is observed -respecting our future operations; strict orders have been -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_184" id="Page_184">{184}</a></span> -given that officers and others are not to give information -regarding our works and movements but to those entitled -to demand it. I was on trench duty last night when it -froze hard, with bitter cutting wind, drifting the snow -into our eyes and filling the trenches; but the sun shone -out in the morning and the wind fell. The day was clear -and cold, and the warm clothing and long boots enabled -us to bear the severity of the weather, which would have -been fatal to many, had we been in the same state as our -comrades on whom winter fell with all its rigour, while -they had nothing to wear but their old regimental clothing. -We are now well secured with long boots, fur caps -and warm jackets. As the day was clear, I could see the -Russians plainly, in spite of the dazzling effect of the -snow and cold. The bridge of boats across the creek, from -the government buildings to the other side of the town, -was crowded with men, who were busily engaged passing -across supplies and rolling barrels to the other side, shewing -that there is a centre of supply or depôt in the -government buildings behind the Redan and opposite the -fire of our batteries. Several lighters under sail and full -of men were standing over from one side of the harbour -to the other, and boats manned with crews dressed in -white were tugging scows laden with stores to the south -side of the town. A small steamer was also very active, -puffing and splurting about the harbour in all directions, -furrowing the surface of the water, which was as smooth -as glass, so completely is the harbour land-locked—the -men-of-war with their white ensigns and St. Andrew's -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_185" id="Page_185">{185}</a></span> -cross, lying in a line at the north side. The masts of -three vessels could be seen plainly above the buildings; -further away to the right toward Inkerman the white -houses and barracks shone brightly in the sun, and the -bells of the churches were ringing out clearly in the frosty -air; the tall houses running up the hillside, with its -massive, public buildings, gave Sebastopol rather an imposing -appearance. There was not a soul to be seen in -the streets except soldiers running across the open space -from one battery to another, relieving guards or posting -sentries. Outside the town the eye rests on walls of -earth piled up ten or twelve feet high and twenty feet -thick, with embrasures, in which I could see the muzzles -of the guns pointing toward our batteries; those works -are of tremendous strength, with a very deep and broad -ditch in front. Round the suburbs of the town are -broken-down, white-washed cottages, the roofs of which -are all gone, the doors off and the windows out, the walls -are left standing at a certain distance from the batteries -with holes made in them so that the guns can cover their -object; they are also used for sharpshooters.</p> - -<p>The picture of misery presented by these suburbs is -very striking, in most instances the destruction has been -caused by our shot, and the houses all round the Flagstaff -and Garden batteries have been blown into heaps of -rubbish and mortar. There have been a great many -shells thrown by the Russians to-day from a mortar -battery towards the sea, projecting the shells into the air -every half minute or so across a hill in front of it, so as to -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_186" id="Page_186">{186}</a></span> -annoy our working party, who were engaged in throwing -up a trench towards the Quarantine fort. The white -smoke rushing into the air expands into rings; then -follows the heavy dull report; then comes the shrill -whistle of the shell travelling through the air as it -describes its curve, and descends with great velocity, increasing -as it reaches the ground, sometimes sinking deep -into the earth, tearing it up with the explosion, to the -destruction of those around. It is a most unpleasant -reflection when we see a whistling Dick coming in the -air, and run out of its way behind a traverse. To how -many families have they carried deep sorrow and mourning. -The smoke clears away, then men gather around -one who moves not, they bear him away on a stretcher, -and a small mound of fresh earth marks for a little time -the resting-place of the soldier, whose wife, mother, -children, or sisters are left destitute of all happiness, save -the memory and the sympathy of their country. Who -will let the inmates of that desolate cottage in England, -Ireland, or Scotland, know of their bereavement? However -there goes another shell which does nothing but -knock up a cloud of earth and stones.</p> - -<p>After being relieved, we marched to our gloomy camp -under a heavy fire from the enemy; but my hut was -not so gloomy as the men's tents, it was warm and comfortable, -my comrade had a little fire, keeping my coffee -and fried biscuits warm, with a cotton rag dipped in -pork fat as a substitute for a candle.</p> - -<p>February 25th. The 17th Regiment was roused at two -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_187" id="Page_187">{187}</a></span> -o'clock this morning and marched down to reinforce the -covering party in the trenches. The Russians commenced -one of the most furious cannonades we have heard since the -siege began. The whole of the Russian batteries from our -left opened with immense force and noise, the Redan, Garden -and Malakoff batteries began firing round shot and -shell. Our second parallel and twenty-one gun batteries -were exposed to the weight of this most terrible fire, which -shook the very earth and lighted up the sky with incessant -lightning flashes for two hours, under cover of which -a very strong sortie was made, and for an hour the musketry -rolled incessantly with vigour enough for a general engagement. -As soon as the fire opened, an aide-de-camp -rode to our lines and gave the order for the 17th, 57th, -and 20th Regiments to march to the trenches, and in less -than five minutes these three regiments were moving in -double time toward the trenches. On arrival, we found -that the covering party had succeeded in driving the -enemy from our trenches. We then returned to our camp -and lay down for a couple of hours. The Russians had -made a sortie on the French lines at the same time, and -were also driven back with great loss.</p> - -<p>At the request of General Ostensacken, an armistice -was granted from twelve till one o'clock to-day, to enable -the Russians to bury their dead. There was not much -firing this morning; at twelve o'clock white flags were -run up on the batteries on both sides, and immediately -afterwards a body of Russians issued from the Redan, -Flagstaff, and Malakoff batteries, and proceeded to carry -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_188" id="Page_188">{188}</a></span> -off their dead; and our men, with the French, emerged -from our batteries on a similar errand. A few Russian -officers advanced about half way towards our batteries, -when they were met by our officers and the French -where extreme courtesy, the interchange of profound salutations -and bowings marked the interview. The officers -walked up and down, and skakos were raised and caps -doffed politely as each came near an enemy; in the meantime -the soldiers were carrying the dead and wounded off -the field. About one o'clock the Russians retired inside -their batteries, and immediately after the white flags were -hauled down. The troops had scarcely disappeared over -the parapet, when the flash and roar of a gun from the -Malakoff announced that the war had begun once more, -and our batteries almost simultaneously fired a gun; in a -moment afterwards the popping of rifles commenced as -usual on both sides.</p> - -<p>The Cossacks about Balaklava are particularly busy -throwing out their piquets and sentries all along the top of -Canrobert's Hill. These sentries can see everything that -goes on in the plain, from the entrance to Balaklava to the -edge on which our right rests; not a horse, cart, or man can -go in or out of the town, without being seen by these sentries, -for they are quite visible to any person who gazes -from the top of Canrobert's Hill. The works of the railway -must cause these Cossacks very serious apprehensions. -What can they, or do they, think of them? Gradually they -see villages of white huts rise up on the hillside and in the -valleys, and from the cavalry camp to the heights of Balaklava -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_189" id="Page_189">{189}</a></span> -they can see line after line of wooden buildings, -and can discover the tumult and bustle on Kadikoi. This -may be all very puzzling; but it can be nothing to the -excitement of looking at the railway trucks rushing round -the hill at Kadikoi, and running down the incline to the -town at the rate of twenty miles an hour. The Cossacks -gallop up to the top of the hill to look at this phenomenon, -and they caper about shaking their lances in wonder and -excitement when the trucks disappear.</p> - -<p>About 300 sick men were sent down to Balaklava to-day, -on the ambulance mules.</p> - -<p>The preparations for the general bombardment are progressing -with great rapidity, and arrangements have -been made to send up two thousand pounds of ammunition -per day to the front from the harbour; about two -hundred mules have been pressed into the service in addition -to the railway, and the Highlanders, and Artillery -horses are employed in the carriage of heavy shot and -shell to the front, a duty which greatly disables and distresses -them. The Guards are all down at Balaklava; -some of them seem in very delicate health; a few old -campaigners have attained that happy state in which no -hardships or privations can have any effect on them. The -silence and calm of the last few days are but the omens -of the struggle which is about to be resumed very speedily -for the possession of Sebastopol. The Russians are -silent, because we do not impede their work; we are -silent, because we are preparing for the contest, and are -using every energy to bring up from Balaklava the enormous -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_190" id="Page_190">{190}</a></span> -amount of projectiles and mountains of ammunition -which will be required for the service of our batteries, -when we open a general bombardment.</p> - -<p>The railway has begun to render us some service in -saving the hard labour attendant on the transport of -shot and shell, and enables us to form a small depôt at -the distance of two miles and a half from Balaklava, -which is, however, not large enough for the demands made -upon it, and it is emptied as soon as it is formed by parties -from the regiments in front, who carry ammunition -to the camp depôt, four miles further on.</p> - -<p>The navvies work at the railway hard and honestly, with -a few exceptions, and the dread of the provost marshal -has produced a wholesome influence on the dispositions -of the refractory. About 200 men of the Naval Brigade -have been detailed to assist in the works of the railway, -in order that the construction of it may be hastened as -much as possible.</p> - -<p>March 4th. I was one of a covering party in the advanced -trench; it was a bright moonlight night, with sharp, -cold frost. The Russians availed themselves of the brightness -of the night by keeping up a constant fire of musketry -on our trenches. At daybreak the volleys of musketry -lasted an hour, mingled with the roar of round shot, -whistling and bursting of shells, under cover of which -they made a strong sortie on our trenches, and were repulsed -with heavy loss; they also made a strong sortie -on the French lines at the same time, and met no better -success. General Canrobert and staff rode past our camp -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_191" id="Page_191">{191}</a></span> -to-day on his way to visit the British Head-Quarters, -where he met Lord Raglan and several generals of our -army, with whom he held a council of war, but nothing is -known publicly respecting the result of the council.</p> - -<p>March 6th. Yesterday our first spring meeting took -place and was numerously attended. The races came off on -a level piece of ground near the Tchernaya River, and were -regarded with much interest by the Cossacks on Canrobert's -Hill. They evidently thought at first that the -assemblage was connected with some military demonstration, -and galloped about in a state of great excitement -to and fro. In the midst of the races a party of -twelve Russians was seen approaching the sentry on the -old redoubt beyond Inkerman; the sentry fired and ten -of them fled, and when the piquet came up to the sentry -they found two deserters had come in from the Russians. -One of them was an officer, and the other had been an -officer, but had suffered degradation. They were both -Poles, spoke French fluently, and expressed great satisfaction -at their escape and said, "Send us wherever you -please, provided we never see Russia again." They stated -that they had deceived the men who were with them -into the belief that the sentry was one of their own outposts, -and, as they had lately joined, they believed them, -and advanced boldly till the sentry fired at them, when -they discovered their mistake and fled. As they were well -mounted, they dashed towards our lines; the Cossacks -tried to cut them off, but did not succeed. They requested -that the horses might be sent back to the Russian lines, -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_192" id="Page_192">{192}</a></span> -as they did not belong to them—they did not wish to be -accused of theft. The horses were then taken to the brow -of the hill and set free, when they galloped towards the -Cossacks. The races proceeded as usual, and subsequently -towards six o'clock the crowd dispersed.</p> - -<div class="image-center"> - <img src="images/dec-4.jpg" width="120" height="62" alt="dec"/> -</div> - -<div> - -<div class="pagenum"><a name="Page_193" id="Page_193">{193}</a></div> - -<div class="image-center"> - <img src="images/bar-3.jpg" width="350" height="60" alt="bar"/> -</div> - -<h2>CHAPTER XVIII.</h2> - -<p class="header">ST. PATRICK'S DAY—RIFLE PITS—FOURTH DIVISION—FRENCH LOSS—THE -SIEGE—GENERAL ATTACK—FLAG OF TRUCE—BURYING THE -DEAD—WOODEN HUTS—TURKISH TROOPS—DIVINE SERVICE.</p> - -</div> - -<div> - <img class="drop-cap" src="images/drop-m.jpg" width="73" height="80" alt="m"/> -</div> - -<p class="drop-cap"><span class="uppercase">March</span> -18th. Yesterday being St. Patrick's day, -many officers and men were to be seen early in -the morning on the hill-side in search of something -green to wear as a substitute for a real shamrock, the -old symbol of Erin. In the afternoon we had horseraces -to celebrate St. Patrick's day, and show that Irishmen, -though far from their native land, had not forgotten -the rights and ceremonies by which this celebrated day -was remembered by them. They were in excellent spirits, -the day was fine, and the ground dry; both officers and -men enjoyed the day's sport; the thunder of the siege -guns rose up frequently above the shouts of the crowd in -the heat of the races. There has been a fierce struggle -between the French and Russians last night, for the possession -of the rifle-pits. These pits are situated in front -of the Mamelon, and the Russian sharpshooters occupy -them every night, and keep up a most galling and destructive -fire against the exposed parts of the advanced -trenches of our right attack as well as that of the French. -The shot of our batteries make the rifle pits too hot a -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_194" id="Page_194">{194}</a></span> -place for the Russians during the day, but at night they -come back and re-occupy them, supported by large bodies -of infantry; in these encounters the enemy has had many -men killed and wounded. These rifle pits have cost both -armies large quantities of ammunition, as well as the -sacrifice of many men; but the French are determined -to wrest them from the Russians at any cost, for they are -a source of the greatest annoyance to them. They sent a -strong force of about six thousand men down close to our -second and light divisions, before dusk yesterday evening, -and shortly afterwards they were sent to the advanced -trenches, on our right; the covering party and riflemen -were ordered out to occupy the rifle pits; they advanced -but found the Russians had anticipated them, and that -the enemy were already in possession of the pits. A fierce -battle then commenced, but it was found that the enemy -were there in much larger force than was expected; therefore -the French could not then drive them from their -position, notwithstanding their repeated attempts to do -so. The contest was carried on by musketry, and the -volleys which rang out incessantly for five hours, roused -up the whole camp.</p> - -<p>From the roll of musketry, and the flashing light in front, -one would have thought that a general engagement between -large armies was going on. The character of the -fight had something peculiar about it, owing to the absence -of round shot or shell. About 7.30 o'clock, p.m., the 4th -division was turned out by order of the General, Sir John -Campbell, and took up its position on the hill near the -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_195" id="Page_195">{195}</a></span> -Green Hill battery, and the light division, under Sir George -Brown, at the same time marched towards the 21 gun -battery; the second and third divisions were also turned -out and marched to the trenches in their front, after the -French had desisted and retired from the assault on the -rifle-pits. These divisions, after remaining under arms for -five hours, were marched back to their respective camps. -Had the French required our assistance we were ready to -give it; but they were determined on taking these pits, -which are in front of their advanced trenches, without -any aid from us. The Zouaves bore the heaviest part of -this battle; we could distinctly hear their officers between -the volleys of musketry, cheering on their men, and encouraging -them, and the rush of men generally followed, -then a volley of musketry was heard, followed by rapid -file firing, then a Russian cheer and more musketry. Between -each volley we could hear the officer again giving -the command. This work went on for about five hours, -when the French at length retired. The French loss at -this affair was twenty officers and 200 rank and file killed, -wounded and taken prisoners; the Russian loss was over -600 killed and wounded.</p> - -<p>March 18th, 5 p.m. General Canrobert attended by -his staff, passed down by our right attack, and examined -the position of the rifle-pits, Malakoff and Mamelon. At -twilight a strong force of French with a battery of field -pieces were moved down towards the advanced works, -and another attempt was made to take the rifle-pits, and -after a hard-fought battle they succeeded in dislodging the -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_196" id="Page_196">{196}</a></span> -Russians, amid a blaze of fire from the forts at daybreak. -The French now directed a heavy fire from these pits against -the Mamelon and Malakoff, reversing the sand bags and -loop holes.</p> - -<p>March 23rd. The 17th Regiment furnished a working -party of one hundred men for the advanced trenches yesterday -evening. At twilight, when we got to the trenches, -the engineer officer laid out the work. It was a new trench. -Every file of men got a pickaxe and shovel, and were -placed at six yards apart, on the open ground, without -any shelter from the Russian grape and canister. We -placed a man on the look-out for the flash of the guns, -while we worked hard to throw up cover. About twelve -o'clock the sentries in advance of us gave the alarm, by -firing upon the advancing Russians, who came so suddenly -we had scarcely time to snatch up our rifles before -they were upon us, bayoneting us before we were -prepared to receive them. When the sentries first discovered -them they were close upon us. Taken at a great disadvantage, -and pressed by superior numbers, we met them -hand to hand with the bayonet; our men fought like -British lions, meeting the assault with undaunted courage. -We drove the enemy back at the point of the bayonet; -pursued by our shot, they retired under cover of their batteries. -The attack was general along the whole line. -At ten, p.m., our batteries, with the French, began to shell -the town, pouring our rockets every five minutes in -streams into the city. The sentries in advance of Chapman's -battery gave the alarm also that the Russians were -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_197" id="Page_197">{197}</a></span> -advancing in force on the trenches; the 20th, 21st, 57th, -and 68th Regiments were the covering parties on the left -attack. They were pretty well prepared for the enemy. -About the same time the French were attacked by columns -of the enemy. As the French were sorely pressed, our -troops extended along a portion of their trenches. On the -left attack the Russians advanced in great force, through -a weak part of the trenches, turning the third parallel; -they killed and wounded several of our men, and had advanced -to the second parallel, when our covering party -came down upon them and drove them back after a sharp -conflict. On the right the Russians came on our men very -suddenly. The 34th Regiment had a strong force to contend -against, and as Colonel Kelly, their commanding officer, -was leading them on, he got wounded and was taken prisoner -by the Russians, and carried off to Sebastopol. After -an hour's fight the enemy were driven back to their batteries. -During this affair we had ten officers and one hundred -men placed <i>hors-de-combat</i>; the French had fifteen -officers and two hundred men killed, wounded and taken -prisoners. On the other hand, the enemy lost between seven -hundred and eight hundred men. The number of dead -Russians lying along the front of our trenches proved -that they got a severe chastisement, and that they experienced -a heavy loss.</p> - -<p>The bodies of one officer and sixteen men remained in -our trench until next day, and in front of our trenches -the ground was covered with their dead. About one -o'clock next day flags of truce were run up from the Redan -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_198" id="Page_198">{198}</a></span> -and Malakoff, and shortly after white flags were waving -from the top of ours and the French batteries. Previous -to the white flags being run up, not a soul was visible -in front of the lines. The instant the flags were -hoisted, friend and foe swarmed out of the batteries and -trenches. The sight was a strange one,—the French, English -and Russian officers saluting each other most courteously -as they passed, and a constant interchange of -civilities took place. But while all this civility was going -on, the soldiers of both sides were carrying off their -dead comrades from the blood-stained ground, which was -covered with strong proofs of the recent battle. There -British, French and Russian soldiers, lying as they had -fallen in their gore, with broken muskets, bayonets, -pouches, belts, fragments of clothing, pools of blood, -broken gabions, fascines, and torn sand-bags, visible on -every side; and the solemn procession of soldiers, bearing -their comrades to their last resting place, looked a -most ghastly spectacle. In the midst of all this evidence -of war a certain amount of lively conversation took -place between the Russians and our men, such as, "Bono -Inglais, Francais no bono, Rooso bono," and they led us to -understand that they liked the British soldiers much -better than the French, although we always made it hot -for them whenever we met, for which they gave us the -name of "red devils." It took two hours to bury the -dead; at the end of that time the armistice was over, and -scarcely had the white flags disappeared behind the parapet -of the Redan, before a round shot from the sailors' -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_199" id="Page_199">{199}</a></span> -battery knocked through one of their embrasures, raising -a pillar of dust; the Russians at once replied, and the -roar of the big guns drowned all other noise. It is generally -believed by the officers and men, that our batteries will -open a general bombardment on Sebastopol about the -tenth of April. The greatest excitement and activity are -displayed in Balaklava, at the railway station, and all -round the harbour, with crowds of fatigue parties and -labourers engaged in piling up shot and shell, and loading -the railway with ammunition, of which immense quantities -are being sent up to the front.</p> - -<p>The first passenger train from the front to Balaklava -was one loaded with sick soldiers, who were sent down -to Balaklava.</p> - -<p>On the 2nd April, five trucks filled with sick and -wounded men ran down from the front in less than -half an hour; the men of course were much more comfortable -than those sent down on mules during the winter. -Sickness in camp, I am glad to say, is diminishing -every day; instead of sending down a thousand men a week -to Scutari, as we did a month ago, we now despatch on an -average only two hundred.</p> - -<p>April 6th. This evening our mortar battery fired -several shells into the Redan, and after the explosion, -beams of timber, trunks of bodies, legs and arms of -human beings, were seen to fly up in the air; and after -a time a blaze of fire ran along a portion of the works, -which sprang from one of the enemy's mines. The 68th -Regiment furnished one hundred men for a working -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_200" id="Page_200">{200}</a></span> -party in the advanced trench last night, and were pounced -upon by a working party of Russians, who were throwing -up a trench, within sixty yards of them, and a regular -hand to hand fight ensued. The men of the 68th who were -armed with the new Enfield rifle, could not draw their ramrods; -the wood of the rifle, being new, had swelled with -the rain and continued dampness, causing the rifle to get -woodbound, this has occurred more than once to my own -knowledge; therefore after the first volley, they had no -resource but to use their bayonet and butt end of their -rifle, billhooks, pickaxes, and spades, which they were -working with when the Russians came upon them. After -the sentries gave the alarm, the covering party from the -third parallel came to their assistance, and at last the -Russians were repulsed after a severe struggle. Our loss -was about 60 men killed and wounded; the Russians lost -200 men killed and wounded, out of 800 who were engaged -in the affair. I am glad to state that the 17th Regiment -have got up two wooden huts at last, one for the grenadiers -and the other for the light company; and besides, -we are now getting a small supply of wood from the -commissariat department. The weather is fine, and the -camp ground getting dry. We have also got a divisional -canteen established, close to the camp of the 57th Regiment. -We can now purchase several articles of luxuries, -such as butter, cheese, bread, bottled ale and porter, besides -several other useful articles, which the men require -to nourish and strengthen them, after the hardship they -suffered during the severe winter. As regards food and -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_201" id="Page_201">{201}</a></span> -shelter, our men are getting better off every day! we are -getting flannel comforters now when we do not want -them. It is a pity we did not get these things last winter. -All the materials we possess now were to be had -for moving them, and the thankfulness which the survivors -feel for the use of them is tinged with bitter regret -that our loved departed comrades can never share again -our present comforts. As these neat huts rise up in rows -one after the other, the eye rests sadly on the rows of -humble mounds which mark the resting-place of those -who perished in their muddy blankets under a wet and -cold tent. There is not a regiment out here but has some -generous friend in the mother country, whose care and -bounty have provided them with luxuries and comforts -beyond all price to the sick and declining soldier; some -have sent tobacco, cheese, arrowroot, and warm clothing. -The bounty, kindness and love of the people at home have -now most liberally contributed to the wants of the army. -About 12,000 Turks have just landed at Kamiesch Bay; -they had a long march to the heights of Balaklava. It -was astonishing that so few men fell out of the ranks or -straggled behind. They had a good brass band, which -astonished the British soldiers by "Rule Britannia" as -they marched past our camp; most of the regiments were -preceded by drums, fifes, and trumpets.</p> - -<p>The colonel and his two majors rode at the head of each -regiment, richly dressed, on small but spirited horses, -covered with rich saddle-clothes, and followed by their -pipe-bearers, The mules, with the tents, marched on the -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_202" id="Page_202">{202}</a></span> -right, and the artillery on the left; each gun was drawn -by six horses; the baggage animals marched in rear. -The regiments marched in columns of companies, most of -the men were armed with the old flint-lock muskets, -which were clean and bright. They all displayed rich -standards blazing with cloth of gold, and coloured flags -with crescent and star embroidered on them. All the men -carried a small pack with a blanket on top, a small piece -of carpet to sit on, and cooking utensils. As they marched -along they presented a very warlike appearance, the reality -of which was enchanced by the thunder of guns at -Sebastopol, and the bursting of shells in the air. The -troops attended divine service on Easter Sunday; the -Roman Catholics have erected a small chapel in the 4th -division, and a priest celebrated mass outside the chapel, -and preached a most eloquent sermon. The troops were -formed up in close column by regiments, forming three -sides of a square the chapel filling up the fourth side. It -was a very imposing sight; the square of soldiers standing -with fixed bayonets, and presenting arms at the elevation -of the Host, the priest in the centre, bare-headed, and his -vestments flowing in the breeze. The Protestants attend -divine service in the open air regularly on Sundays, since -the chaplains to the forces have arrived. On Easter -Sunday the French had High Mass in each of their camps, -with all the pomp of military bands. On last Saturday -the regiments of the 4th division turned out every man -off duty, and dug a deep trench and built a fence round -the burial ground, placing a rustic gate at the entrance.</p> - -<div> - -<div class="pagenum"><a name="Page_203" id="Page_203">{203}</a></div> - -<div class="image-center"> - <img src="images/bar-5.jpg" width="350" height="58" alt="bar"/> -</div> - -<h2>CHAPTER XIX.</h2> - -<p class="header">BOMBARDMENT—TENTS BLOWN DOWN—SIEGE—LIEUT. WILLIAMS—WOUNDED—SAILORS—GO -TO HOSPITAL—DESCRIPTION—SARDINIANS—DISCHARGED -FROM HOSPITAL—ATTACK ON QUARRIES—FLAG OF -TRUCE—BURYING THE DEAD.</p> - -</div> - -<div> - <img class="drop-cap" src="images/drop-e.jpg" width="58" height="80" alt="e"/> -</div> - -<p class="drop-cap"><span class="uppercase">Easter</span> -Monday at daybreak, the whole line of batteries -simultaneously opened fire on Sebastopol; and -as the firing commenced, the overhanging clouds seemed -to have burst with the terrific thunder of the big guns -and mortars, and the rain poured down in torrents -accompanied by a high breeze; so thick was the atmosphere -that even the flashes of the guns were invisible, -and the gunners must have fired at guess work by the -flashes of the enemies' batteries, as it was impossible to see -more than a few yards in advance. A driving sheet of -rain and a black sea fog shroud the whole camp, which -has resumed the miserable aspect so well known to us -already; tents have been blown down, the mud has already -become very deep, and the ground covered with -slush and pools of dirty water. Our batteries are thundering -away continuously in regular bursts, and are now -firing at the rate of forty shots a minute; when they first -opened they fired eighty shots a minute, but, with the -down-pouring of rain and fog, it is hard work. As it was -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_204" id="Page_204">{204}</a></span> -not necessary to press the gunners, they have slackened -the fire considerably.</p> - -<p>The Russians were taken completely by surprise when -our batteries opened fire. The Redan and Garden batteries -came into play at once after we opened, but some -time elapsed before the Malakoff or Mamelon answered. -A sharp fusillade took place in the night between our -advanced trenches and the enemy. The piquets were -reinforced on the heights of Balaklava, and on the plain -at night.</p> - -<p>Lord Raglan, Sir John Campbell and General Jones, -R. E., as wet and drenching as the day was, posted themselves -in their favourite spot at the Green Hill trench, -whence they could get a good view along the whole of -the batteries. At five o'clock the sun descended in a dark -pall, which covered the sky, and cast a pale light upon the -masses of curling vapour across the line of batteries. The -outlines of the town were faintly visible through the mist -of smoke and rain. It seemed quivering inside the lines -of fire around it. The ground beneath was lighted up by -incessant flashes of light, and long trails of smoke streamed -across it spurting up in thick volumes tinged with fire. -This glimpse of the batteries, brief though it was, proved -extremely satisfactory. The French batteries were firing -with energy on the Flagstaff and Garden batteries, which -were replied to very feebly by the enemy.</p> - -<p>April 12. The 17th Regiment furnished 450 men for -the trenches. After being inspected at sundown by the Brigadier, -Colonel McPherson, C.B., we marched down to the -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_205" id="Page_205">{205}</a></span> -Green Hill trench, under the command of a field officer; -the 68th Regiment furnished a like number. As we were -relieving the 21st and 57th Regiments, the Russians opened -fire with tremendous salvoes from their batteries. Our -gunners made excellent practice, and soon silenced several -of their most troublesome guns, and at every shot the earth -was knocked up out of the enemy's parapets and embrasures; -our shell practice was not so good as it might be, -on account of bad fuses.</p> - -<p>The French had silenced ten guns on the Flagstaff batteries, -and had inflicted great damage on the outworks. -On our side we had silenced half the guns in the Redan -and Malakoff; but the Barrack and Garden Batteries were -not much injured, and kept up a brisk fire against us of -round shot. During the night the firing was very heavy -on both sides; there was a continuous roar of big guns -and mortars. We discharged large quantities of rockets -into the town, and our mortars kept up a steady fire on -the Redan and Garden batteries. During the night we -were greatly exposed to the enemy's fire, for we were employed, -as hard as we could work, in patching up embrasures, -platforms, and mounting big guns; we had mounted -two guns in the second parallel, broken platforms were -renewed, and damaged guns replaced by others.</p> - -<p>April 13th. At dawn this morning the batteries on both -sides commenced their terrible duel as usual, and it was -evident that the Russians had wonderfully exerted themselves -to repair damages during the night; for they had -replaced four or five damaged guns, repaired broken embrasures -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_206" id="Page_206">{206}</a></span> -and injured parapets, and were as ready to meet -our fire as we were to meet theirs. The firing has not -slackened all day; about three o'clock we were repairing -the battery on the left of the second parallel, when the -Russians opened a fierce fire of shell and round shot; one -of the latter knocked the head clean off the shoulders of -one man, dashing his brains into Captain O'Connor's face, -and all over the breast of his tunic. As he was getting -the man's brains washed off his face and clothing, a piece -of shell struck Lieutenant Williams, and cut his eye clean -out of his head. As I was gazing with horror at the officer's -eye hanging down on his cheek, a piece of shell struck -me on the head, cutting through my forage cap and sinking -into my skull. This was all done in less than five -minutes; the shelling was fearful. I have seen six shells -burst in the trench at one time. Lieutenant Williams -and myself, with several others, were <i>hors-de-combat</i> for -some time after. The doctor in the Green Hill trench -dressed our wounds, when we were conducted by a couple -of bandsmen to the hospital.</p> - -<p>The sailors have suffered severely, although they only -work about forty guns in the different batteries; they -have lost more men in proportion to their number than -any of the other siege trains; at the time I got wounded -they had then seventy men killed and four wounded, besides -two officers killed and four wounded. The sailors -in Chapman's battery silenced five of the best guns in -the Redan yesterday; but the Russians replaced them -during the night, and opened fire from them in the morning. -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_207" id="Page_207">{207}</a></span> -The Redan is very much damaged on the right and -front face, already four of the embrasures are knocked -level with the inside of it, but the Russians work hard -repairing their batteries during the night; they are so -numerous they can spare the men; besides they have not -to carry shot and shell as far as we have. When I got -to the hospital the doctor examined my wound and dressed -it and put me to bed; the first I lay on since I left Gibraltar -last year, and the first time I was ever sick in hospital. -The change seemed to me a strange one—the -doctors were so attentive and unremitting in the care of -the sick and wounded men, and so many hospital orderlies -waiting on us. I did not think at the time that I deserved -such attention and kindness as they were bestowing on -me; for I often saw a man getting an uglier wound from -the crack of a shillally at a fair in Ireland, but the doctor -made me believe that the wound was much worse than I -thought it was at first.</p> - -<p>There were many men in hospital with diarrhœa, -dysentery, and a few with scurvy; sick and wounded men -kept coming in from the camp and trenches, day and -night; the worst cases are to be sent down to Balaklava. -I am glad not to be one of them, I do not want to go far -from my dear old regiment. At the end of three weeks, -I was returned fit for duty once more, thanks be to God, -and recommended for light duty for a few days.</p> - -<p>May 2nd. I was discharged from hospital this morning; -the day was warm and beautiful, and a gentle breeze fanned -the canvas of the wide spread streets of tents, for we -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_208" id="Page_208">{208}</a></span> -have only two wooden huts up for the 17th Regiment as -yet. I was anxious to have a look at old Sebastopol once -more, and see how it looked after the storm of shot and -shell which I have heard roaring and bursting for the -last three weeks that I have been in hospital; so I went -up to Cathcart's Hill, just at the left of our camp ground. -As the day was clear and fine, the reports of the guns and -rifles became more distinct, the white buildings, domes, -and cupolas of Sebastopol stood out with menacing distinctness -against the sky, and the ruined suburbs and -massive batteries seemed just the same and looked as -strong as when I saw them three weeks ago.</p> - -<p>May 16. The Sardinians are massing on the hills all -round Karanyi daily. Three steamers have arrived yesterday -laden with these troops. They have landed all -ready for the field, with their transport horses, carts, -mules, and vehicles; they looked gay, and every one admired -the air and carriage of those troops. Our eye was -much struck by the large, gay plume of green feathers -on the top of their dandy shako. The officers wear a -plume of green ostrich feathers. They carry very small -square tents which are upheld by their lances stuck in -the ground, one at each end of the tent, and their encampment, -with its flags all round it, has a very pretty -effect. We are all very sorry to hear that Miss Nightingale -has been ill with fever in Balaklava.</p> - -<p>June 3rd. For the last two weeks firing has been very -slack, and trench duty has gone on quietly with two and -three nights off at a time. The Russians throw an odd -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_209" id="Page_209">{209}</a></span> -shell into our trench, to remind us that they are on the -alert; we can see the shell black in the shining sun, as -it describes its circle high in the air, and at night they -are more plainly seen—with a tail like a comet, they are -heard whistling, coming through the air, apparently up -among the stars.</p> - -<p>There has been an unusual languor on the side of the -Russians. Some say it is due to sickness raging in Sebastopol, -others say it is due to the desire of economizing -ammunition, but most of us think that it is the warmth -of the weather that has dulled their energies. But there is -one thing that we do know, for we can see it, that they are -working away to strengthen and provision the fortress on -the north side.</p> - -<p>June 6th. At three p.m., the whole of the batteries -encircling Sebastopol have once more, for the third -time, opened a most terrible fire on its batteries. The -English and French are now in strength and power equal -to any achievement, and in the best of spirits, and are -anxious to get a good charge at the Russians with the -bayonet. Every one feels that the intention of going beyond -a vain bombardment is tolerably plain, and we think -with some strong defiance of the risk. This afternoon -Lord Raglan and General Pellisier, with their staff, rode -through the camp, amidst the cheers and acclamations of -both their armies. There cannot be any doubt as to the -zeal of those whom they command.</p> - -<p>Our fire was kept up for the first four hours with the -greatest rapidity. The superiority of our fire over the -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_210" id="Page_210">{210}</a></span> -enemy became apparent at various points before nightfall, -especially on the Redan, which was under the special -attention of the sailors' batteries. After dark the fire -slackened somewhat on both sides, but the same relative -advantage was maintained by our artillery.</p> - -<p>June 7th, at 11 a.m., a shell from the enemy exploded -a magazine in our eight gun battery, and a yell of applause -by the Russians followed the report. Happily -the explosion caused very slight harm; one man killed -and one wounded. As the day wore on, it leaked out -that something of import was undoubtedly to take place -before its close, and that the double attack would probably -commence at five or six p.m. The fire on our side -which had continued until daybreak steadily assumed a -sudden fury at three o'clock, and was kept up from that -hour to the critical moment with great activity. The -affair itself came off but little after the anticipated time. -It was about 7 o'clock p.m., when the head of the French -attacking column climbed its arduous road to the Mamelon. -A rocket was thrown up as a signal to our division, -and instantly the small force of our men made a rush at -the Quarries. After a hard hand to hand fight we drove -out the Russians, and turned round the gabions and commenced -to fortify ourselves in our newly acquired position. -At the same time the French went up the side of -the Mamelon in most beautiful style, like a pack of hounds -trying to rout a fox from his old cover; the Zouaves -were upon the parapet firing down upon the Russians; -the next moment a flag was up as a rallying point, and -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_211" id="Page_211">{211}</a></span> -was seen to sway to and fro, now up, now down, as the -tide of battle raged round it; and now like a swarm -they were into the Mamelon, and a fierce hand to hand -encounter with the bayonet and musket ensued; and after -a very hard contested battle, the French succeeded in -driving the enemy from the Mamelon.</p> - -<p>In the meantime our men fought at the Quarries, and -repelled six successive attacks of the Russians, who displayed -the most singular daring, bravery, and recklessness -of life to obtain possession of the Quarries.</p> - -<p>June 8th. Repeated attacks were made on our men in -the Quarries during the night, who defended their new -acquisition with the utmost courage, and at great sacrifice -of life, against superior numbers, continually replenished. -More than once there was a fierce hand to hand fight in -the position itself.</p> - -<p>The most murderous sortie of the enemy took place -about 3 o'clock in the morning; then the whole batteries -were lighted up with a blaze of fire, and storms of shot -were thrown in from the Redan and other batteries within -range. When morning dawned the position held by both -French and English was of the greatest importance. The -morning brought out on every side, along with the perception -of advantage gained, and a prey lying at our feet, all -the haste and circumstances of the scene, with its painful -consequence of death and suffering. On our side about -400 rank and file and 40 officers were killed and wounded. -The French had 1,200 killed and wounded. Next day -flags of truce were hoisted from the Malakoff and Redan -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_212" id="Page_212">{212}</a></span> -and Flagstaff batteries, which announced that the Russians -requested an armistice to bury their dead; it was a -grave request to make in the midst of a fierce bombardment, -evidently a ruse to gain time, events hanging in the -balance, success, perhaps, depending upon the passing -moment; but it was granted by Lord Raglan,—I dare -not criticise his lordship,—from one o'clock until six in the -evening, during which time no shot was fired on either -side, while the dead bodies which strewed the hill in front -of the Quarries were removed from the field of slaughter. -The corpses which encumbered the earth, and were in -process of removal, gave out faint tokens of coming putrefaction; -fragments of bodies and marks of carnage were -interspersed with, as usual, gabions and broken firelocks.</p> - -<p>During the five hours' armistice the enemy, with their -wonted perseverance, had been making good use of their -time, which we knew they would; and when the firing -commenced, which it did instantly the flags were lowered, -a few minutes before 6 o'clock, it was plain that the -Malakoff and Redan had both received a reinforcement of -guns; so much for politeness,—for the Russians were -most artful in hiding their working parties during the -armistice.</p> - -<p>June 11th. We had many men killed and wounded during -the night in our new positions, into which the Russians -kept firing grape and canister from the batteries -which flank the rear of the Redan.</p> - -<p>News had reached the camp that Miss Nightingale has -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_213" id="Page_213">{213}</a></span> -quite recovered from her serious illness, and that she has -embarked on board Lord Ward's steam yacht for Scutari. -We all pray and trust that she may so improve in health -and strength as to enable her to come amongst our -wounded men once more at Balaklava hospital; for her -presence there is worth all the doctors' medicine. God -bless her, prays an honest Roman Catholic. This morning -I received, from my wife in England, a letter which -conveyed to me the sad intelligence that my youngest -child, Elizabeth, had died on the 30th of last April.</p> - -<div class="image-center"> - <img src="images/dec-6.jpg" width="100" height="55" alt="dec"/> -</div> - -<div> - -<div class="pagenum"><a name="Page_214" id="Page_214">{214}</a></div> - -<div class="image-center"> - <img src="images/bar-5.jpg" width="350" height="58" alt="bar"/> -</div> - -<h2>CHAPTER XX.</h2> - -<p class="header">BOMBARDMENT—THE ASSAULT—GREAT REDAN—THE BATTLE—BALAKLAVA—HOSPITAL—MISS -NIGHTINGALE—NURSES—PROMOTED—DISCHARGED -FROM HOSPITAL—DEATH OF LORD RAGLAN.</p> - -</div> - -<div> - <img class="drop-cap" src="images/drop-a.jpg" width="64" height="80" alt="a"/> -</div> - -<p class="drop-cap"><span class="uppercase">After</span> -the contest for the rifle pits and Mamelon, on -the 8th and 9th, a temporary lull took place in the -siege operations, which was necessary, in order to make -preparations for a yet more formidable assault on the -Malakoff and Redan, of which the Mamelon and Quarries -were mere advanced works. Therefore, on the morning of -the 17th of June, 1855, the batteries of the allied armies -before Sebastopol opened fire from the whole line of -trenches, from left to right. The tremendous roar of big -guns and mortars was terrible. What a pity that this bombardment -had not been kept up until the general assault -took place next morning, which Lord Raglan had intended; -but in order to suit the wishes of General Pellisier, it was -most unfortunate that his Lordship was induced to abandon -his intention, instead of which the Russians were allowed -to strengthen their batteries and reinforce them -with troops owing to the lull in the firing. By the time -the assault was made, they were well prepared to meet us.</p> - -<p>June 18th. At 2 o'clock in the morning, the 4th division, -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_215" id="Page_215">{215}</a></span> -under General Wyndham and Sir John Campbell, consisting -of the 17th, 20th, 21st, 57th and 63rd Regiments, were -marched down to the twenty-one gun battery; thence by -files through zigzags to the Quarries, under a galling fire of -shot and shell from the Redan, the 17th Regiment leading. -As we reached the Quarries, the men got packed closely -together in such a small space; and the Russians, having -the exact range threw the shell right amongst our men, -tearing them to pieces, throwing their legs and arms high -in the air, as we stood there a target for the Russians -waiting for the two rockets which was the signal from -the French, when they got into the Malakoff. A shell -struck Sergeant Connell of the Grenadier Company, tearing -him to shreds, and throwing one of his legs fifty yards off, -which was found afterwards and known by the regimental -number on the sock. That leg was all of him that could -ever be seen afterwards. Paddy Belton, the third man from -me, got struck with a shell and torn to pieces, and several -others. We had much better have tried to get into the -Redan, than to stand there in suspense, a target for shell -and shot. The sailors and 20th Regiment were told off to -carry scaling ladders and wool packs; the latter were -placed on the field, as cover for the riflemen, who were -told off to cover the advance of the storming party, firing -at the Russian gunners, through the embrasures. As the -ladder party advanced toward the ditch of the Redan, -a storm of grape, canister, rifle bullets and pieces of -old nails and iron, was discharged from the big guns of -the Redan, besides a cross fire from the curtains of the -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_216" id="Page_216">{216}</a></span> -little Redan and Malakoff, causing great slaughter to the -small party of sailors and 20th Regiment. I saw one of -the ladder carriers knocked down from one end with a shot, -when the weight of the ladder devolved on the other man -who dragged it along the best way he could, till he was -also knocked over. After hard tugging several had got as -far as the abatis, where they had another delay; for during -the night the Russians had repaired and strengthened -it. This obstructed the advance of the ladder party, -who used the greatest exertions to remove that barrier; -all who were not shot worked through and deposited -their ladders in the ditch of the Redan. Of those who fell, -their ladders lay on the ground between the Quarries and -Redan. The ladders were barely deposited in the ditch, -when Lord Raglan gave the order for the advance of the -storming parties, which consisted of the 17th, 21st, 57th -and 63rd Regiments. This small party, led by Sir John -Campbell, were to attack the left side of that immense -and formidable stronghold, the great Redan.</p> - -<p>The light division, led by the gallant Colonel Yea, consisted -of the 7th, 23rd, 33rd, 34th, 77th and 88th Regiments, -the right side, and the 2nd division the centre or -apex. On the signal being given, Captain John Croker -sang out at the top of his voice, "Grenadiers of the 17th, -advance," when the company bounded over the parapet, -like one man, led by their captain, followed by the other -companies. When the Russians saw us advancing, they -opened such a terrific fire of grape, canister and musketry, -that it was almost impossible for any man to escape being -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_217" id="Page_217">{217}</a></span> -hit. As we advanced up to the abatis, Sir John Campbell -was shot, also my noble captain, John Croker, who was -struck with a grape shot in the head, and fell.</p> - -<p class="gap-above center">LINES ON THE DEATH OF SIR JOHN CAMPBELL AND -CAPTAIN JOHN CROKER.</p> - -<p class="center"><i>Who fell leading the assault on the Great Redan, June 18th, 1855.</i></p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse"> Ye Grenadiers! who fear no foe and scoff at death,</div> - <div class="verse"> Full well I know that, to your dying breath,</div> - <div class="verse"> You'll fight like warriors, or like heroes fall,</div> - <div class="verse"> So now obey your Queen and country's call.</div> - </div> - - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse"> To crush those Russians with relentless hand,</div> - <div class="verse"> And scale their ramparts like a gallant band,</div> - <div class="verse"> Let John Campbell's orders be our guide,</div> - <div class="verse"> We'll fight and conquer by that hero's side.</div> - </div> - - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse"> Nor will we humble at the Russian bear;</div> - <div class="verse"> While God is with us we need never fear;</div> - <div class="verse"> Grasp tight your swords for victory's glorious crown,</div> - <div class="verse"> And share with none those deeds of high renown.</div> - </div> - - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse"> The warriors brave around John Croker stood,</div> - <div class="verse"> Within the Quarries ready for to shed their blood,</div> - <div class="verse"> While Captain Croker on the signal given,</div> - <div class="verse"> Cries, "Grenadiers, advance! and trust your fate to heaven."</div> - </div> - - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse"> Stung with desire, they raised the battle-cry,</div> - <div class="verse"> And rushed well forward to win the fight, or die;</div> - <div class="verse"> Our captain waved high his sword, and then</div> - <div class="verse"> Onward he dashed, followed by all his gallant men.</div> - </div> - - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse"> Who with one loud hurrah, the silence broke,</div> - <div class="verse"> And charged like Britons through the fire and smoke;</div> - <div class="verse"> A moment more and then the bloody struggle came,</div> - <div class="verse"> With roar of cannon and with flash and flame.</div> - </div> - - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="pagenum"><a name="Page_218" id="Page_218">{218}</a></div> - <div class="verse"> While piled in ghastly heaps the brave soldiers lay,</div> - <div class="verse"> Filling the trenches with their dead that day,</div> - <div class="verse"> John Croker's voice was heard above the battle din,</div> - <div class="verse"> Leading his company through death and slaughter then.</div> - </div> - - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse"> Until at last the fatal bullet riven,</div> - <div class="verse"> Laid our hero low and sent his soul to heaven;</div> - <div class="verse"> Deep was the grief and sorrow at his loss we bore,</div> - <div class="verse"> As that noble chieftain lay weltering in his gore.</div> - </div> - - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse"> While round his ghastly corpse we bravely tried</div> - <div class="verse"> To quell the sweeping torrent of the rushing tide</div> - <div class="verse"> That rushed upon us with such resistless fire,</div> - <div class="verse"> And levelled our heroes in heaps, there to expire.</div> - </div> - - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse"> But few escaped of the forlorn band,</div> - <div class="verse"> Of that chivalric company Croker did command;</div> - <div class="verse"> But those who did, stuck by their leader still,</div> - <div class="verse"> And laid his corpse to rest on Cathcart's Hill.</div> - </div> - -</div> -</div> - -<div class="right2 small smcap">T. Faughnan.</div> - -<p class="gap-above">At this time, if the commander had supported us, we -would have taken the Redan; but the few men who were -sent out were shot down. Scarcely a man advanced -as far as the Redan but got either killed or wounded. I -got shot through the right arm, fracturing the bone. As I -was coming back, covered with blood, for the wound was -severe, I saw a man named John Dwyer, who got struck -with a grape shot in the thigh. He said to me, "Oh, Faughnan, -I am kilt entirely." He had scarcely spoken, when a -round shot struck him again and put an end to his sufferings. -I was conducted to the ravine, at the Woronzoff road, -by a drummer, where the doctors and hospital orderlies -were in their shirt-sleeves, hard at work, amputating -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_219" id="Page_219">{219}</a></span> -legs and arms, and binding up wounds; it was fearful to -see all the legs and arms lying around. After the doctor -stopped the blood with a patent bandage, he dressed my -wound, and sent me to hospital on an ambulance waggon -with twelve other wounded men. During the assault on -the Redan and Malakoff, the third division, under General -Eyre, consisting of the 9th, 18th, 28th, 38th, and 44th -Regiments, with a company of picked marksmen, under -Major Felden, of the 44th Regiment, were pushed forward -to feel the way, and cover the advance. At the signal -for the general assault, the 18th Royal Irish, being the -storming party, rushed at the cemetery, and got possession, -dislodging the Russians with a small loss; but the moment -the Russians retired, the batteries opened a heavy -fire on them, from the Barrack and Garden batteries.</p> - -<p>The 18th at once rushed out of the cemetery towards -the town, and succeeded in getting into some houses; -Captain Hayman was gallantly leading his company when -he was shot. Once in the houses, they prepared to defend -themselves. Meantime the enemy did their utmost to blow -down the houses with shot, shell, grape and canister, -but the men kept close, though they lost many men. They -entered these houses about six o'clock in the morning, -and could not leave them until eight o'clock in the evening. -The enemy at last blew up many of the houses, and -set fire to others. When our men rushed out of them the -fire was now spreading all over. The 9th also effected a -lodgment in some houses, and held their possession as well -as the 18th. Why were these men not supported by large -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_220" id="Page_220">{220}</a></span> -bodies of troops, so as to take the enemy on the flank, and -round behind the Redan? Whose fault was it? Not the -men's! Whose fault was it that the Redan was not -breeched by round shot, and the abatis swept away before -the assault was made? Not the men's. Whose fault was it -that large supports were not pushed forward to the Redan, -on the assault being made? Not the men's. Nothing -can be compared to the bravery, daring and courage of the -officers and soldiers of the British army, when they are -brought properly into action; but when a handful of men -are sent to take a stronghold like the Redan, armed as it -was with all sorts of destructive missiles, and manned by -an immense force, it could not be expected that men -could do impossibilities. An armistice to bury the dead -was granted by the Russians, and at 4 o'clock in the afternoon -of the 19th, white flags were hoisted on the Redan -and Malakoff, and in an instant afterwards burying parties -of the French and English emerged from the trenches -and commenced to carry off their dead and bury them in -rear of the trenches, all in one grave, and in their clothes -as they lay, except the officers who were taken to camp, -and buried at Cathcart's Hill. Many wounded men were -found close to the abatis, who were lying there thirty-six -hours in their blood-stained clothes, in the scorching sun, -without a drop of water to quench their thirst. Several -had crawled away during the night, and hundreds had -died of their wounds as they lay. After the burial was -over, the white flags were lowered and firing commenced -again once more. As the ambulance waggons moved along -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_221" id="Page_221">{221}</a></span> -the Woronzoff road towards the hospitals, I could not -help regretting our loss in officers and men, more especially -Captain John Croker. He was a very strict officer, but -a very kind gentleman; that is, he expected every man to -do his duty faithfully and zealously, and beyond that, he -was indulgent, generous, and always anxious for the comfort, -happiness, and amusement of his company. A better, -braver, or more dignified and gentlemanly officer, a kinder -friend than Captain John Croker was not in the service, -nor one more precise, more exacting, more awake to -the slightest professional neglect of duty and his loss to the -grenadier company, I am sure, will be deeply and sorely -felt; he was a native of the County Limerick. On arrival -at the hospital the doctor examined my wound, and found -that the bone was fractured. He then set it, after taking -out three splinters, dressed it, put it in a splint, gave me -a glass of brandy, and put me to bed. The hospital was -getting so crowded I was one of a party of wounded men -who were sent down to Balaklava hospital on mules, next -day at ten o'clock. The number sent down from the division -was two hundred; each mule carried two patients; -we sat back to back. On arrival at Balaklava hospital, -we were told off to comfortable huts, each containing -beds or cots. The wounded men were separate from the -others; those very severely wounded were put to bed, -and at dinner time one of Miss Nightingale's ladies -came round, and spoke kindly to us, and examined our -wounds, which we appreciated very much; and at tea -time the same lady brought us arrowroot and port -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_222" id="Page_222">{222}</a></span> -wine. Next morning the doctor dressed our wounds, -and the lady brought us all sorts of delicacies. How -different to the camp rations of salt junk and hard -tack; and now we had a real lady to nurse us and attend -to our wants. I thought that it was worth getting -wounded to have such attendance. Nothing could surpass -the kindness and attention which these ladies showed -the wounded men; each of them has a certain number of -patients under her care; and truly their kindness and -unremitting exertions did more good to alleviate the pain -and suffering of the wounded men than all the doctor's -medicine. The weather was so very hot that my arm -began to swell, so that the doctor got alarmed and consulted -another doctor, when they decided to amputate my -arm. I did not like the idea of losing my arm, but the -doctors thought the swelling would get into my body; -so when the nurse came round with the arrowroot in the -evening, after she had washed and dressed my wound, she -advised me not to have my arm taken off, but go down -to a spring that gushed from a rock at the foot of the hill -and there hold the wound under the stream as long as I -could bear it, every day. I did as she told me. I then -told the doctor that I would not have my arm taken off. -I sat at the spring all day, except at meal times, and held -my arm under the cold water that rushed out of the rock, -and at the end of a week the swelling reduced. From that -time it began to get better; I was in good health and was -allowed to walk round the hills during the day. The -head surgeon, Dr. Jephson, allowed us every privilege, -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_223" id="Page_223">{223}</a></span> -and our nurse brought us note paper, envelopes and postage -stamps, so that we could write home to our friends. -The invalids were allowed to roam round the rocks all -day between meal times. The hospital, which has been -recently established, affords great comfort to our sick and -wounded men, who will be saved the evils of a sea voyage -to Scutari. It already presents the appearance of a little -village with small patches of gardens in front of the huts; -and its position on those heights, among the rocks, overhanging -the sea and steep crags, which wind up past the -old Genoese tower that stands at the entrance of Balaklava -harbour, to the height of our camp over the sea, is -strikingly picturesque. The judicious surgical treatment -of my arm, and the careful manner in which the doctor's -directions were carried out by our nurse, together with -holding it under the stream of cold spring water, soon -restored it to use again; several other men whose -wounds were very severe were fast improving under this -lady's care. Her assiduity and skill as a nurse, as well -as the gentle kindness of her manner, fully warranted the -greatest respect from her patients, who almost idolized -her, whose presence in the hut stilled the pain of the -wounded men. We often wondered whether she ever slept, -as she seemed to be always attending one or another of -her charge. Miss Nightingale had left Balaklava for Scutari -a few days ago, so I had not the gratification of seeing -that heroic lady, whose honoured name is often mentioned -among the soldiers of the British Army with the -most profound respect—that high born lady Florence -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_224" id="Page_224">{224}</a></span> -Nightingale, the sick and wounded soldier's friend, whose -name will be handed down to future generations, as the -greatest heroine of her sex, who left her happy home -with all the genial associations, comforts and social attractions -which her birth, education and accomplishments so -well enable her to appreciate; going out to a country -wherein every turn spoke of war and slaughter; taking -up her abode in an hospital containing none of her own -sex save those noble ladies who accompanied her as -nurses; watching and tending the sick from morning till -night, among hundreds of wounded, sick, emaciated and -hungry soldiers. All these things considered, there has -indeed rarely, if ever, been such an example of heroic -daring combined with feminine gentleness. Although there -is a heroism in charging the enemy on the heights of Inkerman, -in defiance of death and all mortal opposition, -worthy of all praise and honour, yet the quiet sympathy, -the largeness of her religious heart, and her wondrous -powers of consolation, will ever be remembered with the -love, thankfulness and affection of the soldiers of the -British Army, and by no one more than T. Faughnan.</p> - -<p class="gap-above center">LINES TO MISS FLORENCE NIGHTINGALE.</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse">At the Crimean war thy life was new;</div> - <div class="verse">You left your home, and country too,</div> - <div class="verse">To tend the wounded with hand so fair,</div> - <div class="verse">To Balaklava hospital you did repair.</div> - </div> - - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="pagenum"><a name="Page_225" id="Page_225">{225}</a></div> - <div class="verse">Miss Florence Nightingale, for you is given</div> - <div class="verse">The soldier's prayer to God in Heaven,</div> - <div class="verse">That you may soar to Him above,</div> - <div class="verse">For your right noble valour and Christian love.</div> - </div> - - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse">If Angels are here on earth below,</div> - <div class="verse">You must be one of them we know;</div> - <div class="verse">For flesh and blood can not compare,</div> - <div class="verse">Such genuine valour and angelic care.</div> - </div> - - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse">As you displayed, without one thought</div> - <div class="verse">Of the sleepless nights on you it brought;</div> - <div class="verse">May God His blessings on you descend,</div> - <div class="verse">Is a soldier's prayer whom you did befriend.</div> - </div> - - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse">When you this earthly race have run,</div> - <div class="verse">May Angels lead you to the Son,</div> - <div class="verse">There to sing with Christ for evermore,</div> - <div class="verse">Whom here, on earth, you ever did adore.</div> - </div> - -</div> -</div> - -<div class="right2 small smcap">T. Faughnan.</div> - -<p class="gap-above">After it was ascertained at the regiment that I was not -killed, as was reported, but only wounded, and in hospital -at Balaklava, the commanding officer had me promoted -to full corporal, and my promotion dated back from the -first of April previous, which left me three months' back -pay to draw. This news reached me a few days before I -was discharged from hospital. On the 20th of August, -I was discharged from hospital, and once more proceeded -to join my regiment in camp. After thanking the Sisters -for all their kindness and attention to me while under -their charge, I bid them all good-bye, and started for the -front with six others.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_226" id="Page_226">{226}</a></span> -On arrival at camp, the first I met was Major Gordon, -who was very glad to see me. He said to me, "Faughnan, -we all thought you were killed that morning. I am -sorry I did not know that you were only wounded before -I sent off the returns; I would have recommended you -for the Victoria Cross—but it cannot be helped now, as I -have recommended Corporal John Smith for it." I -thanked him very kindly, and joined my company, who -were all well pleased to see me.</p> - -<p>There is a sad feeling among the officers and soldiers -in camp, and deep regret evinced, at the loss of Lord -Raglan, who departed this life at nine o'clock, p.m., the -28th June, 1855. His death appears to have at once -stilled every feeling but that of respect for his memory; -and the remembrance of the many long years he faithfully -and untiringly served his country; and his frequent -cheering visits among the men in camp, had endeared him -to the army now before Sebastopol. A military procession -was formed at four o'clock in the afternoon of the -3rd of July to escort the body to Kazatch Bay. As -many as could be spared from duty in the trenches and, -with safety to the camp, from every infantry regiment, -formed an avenue from the British to the French headquarters, -and from thence to Kazatch Bay, where the -"Caradoc" was ready to receive her melancholy freight. -The French troops formed a similar avenue. The cavalry -and batteries of artillery were formed up behind the lines -of infantry, and bands were stationed at intervals, and -played the Dead March as the procession moved slowly -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_227" id="Page_227">{227}</a></span> -along the route marked out by the lines of infantry. The -coffin was carried on a gun carriage—the soldier's hearse. -At each side rode the four commanders of the allied -armies; then followed all the generals and officers who -could be spared from trench duty. As the solemn procession -moved along, minute guns were fired by the field -artillery of the French. At Kazatch Bay, marines and -sailors were formed up on the wharf; the naval officers -were in attendance; and the body of Lord Raglan was -placed on board of Her Majesty's Ship "Caradoc," and removed -from that battle-field where both his body and -mind had suffered for the last nine months, and where -many hundreds of gallant officers lie, in their gore and -glory, waiting for the sound of the last trumpet.</p> - -<div class="image-center"> - <img src="images/dec-3.jpg" width="100" height="69" alt="dec"/> -</div> - -<div> - -<div class="pagenum"><a name="Page_228" id="Page_228">{228}</a></div> - -<div class="image-center"> - <img src="images/bar-3.jpg" width="350" height="60" alt="bar"/> -</div> - -<h2>CHAPTER XXI.</h2> - -<p class="header">CAPTAIN COLTHURST—SIEGE—BOMBARDMENT—ASSAULT—REDAN—THE -BATTLE—8TH SEPTEMBER—THE EVACUATION—RUSSIANS—BRITISH -IN SEBASTOPOL.</p> - -</div> - -<div> - <img class="drop-cap" src="images/drop-a.jpg" width="64" height="80" alt="a"/> -</div> - -<p class="drop-cap"><span class="uppercase">August</span> -25th. Captain Colthurst arrived at camp -with a draft of three hundred men, who were -posted to the different companies, to fill up the vacancies -left by those who fell in battle, or died in hospital, -or camp, during the winter. During the month of -July and August our loss in the trenches was very heavy, -although the achievements were not such as brought great -fame and honour to the hard-working army. The outworks -had approached so near the Russian batteries that our -trenches afforded very insufficient shelter from shot, shell, -and rifle-bullets which killed and wounded so many of our -working parties, swelling the list of dead and wounded -very much every twenty four hours. Every thing was -now reported ready by the engineers and artillery officers -for one last and desperate assault on the fortifications.</p> - -<p>The labour bestowed by the Russians to strengthen the -Redan and Malakoff was almost inconceivable—a formidable -abatis of sharpened stakes in front, a parapet thirty -feet high, ditch twenty feet deep by twenty-four feet wide, -with three tiers of heavy guns and mortars rising one -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_229" id="Page_229">{229}</a></span> -above another. Such was the Malakoff and Redan. The -plan of assault was, a vigorous fire to open on the enemy's -batteries, by the Allies, on the 5th, 6th and 7th; followed -on the 8th of September, 1855, by a storming of the -Malakoff by the French, and of the Redan by the British. -Generals Pellisier and Simpson arranged that at dawn, on -the 8th, the French storming columns were to leave the -trenches, the British to storm the Redan; the tricolour flag -planted on the Malakoff was to be the signal that the -French had triumphed, and the British were then to storm -the Redan, for unless the Malakoff was captured first, the -Redan could not be held, as the former was the key of the -position, therefore the Malakoff should be attacked first, -and with a very strong force.</p> - -<p>Appalling in its severity was the final bombardment of -Sebastopol. It began at day-break, as previously arranged -by the commanders, the shot and shell shaking the very -ground with the tremendous reverberation, raising clouds -of earth and overturning batteries along the Russian -lines, filling the air with vivid gleams and sparks and -trains of fire, burying the horizon in dense clouds of smoke -and vapour, and carrying death and destruction into the -heart of, and all over the city. After three hours of this -tremendous fire, the gunners ceased for a while to cool -their guns and rest themselves; then resumed with such -effect that the Russian earth-works became awfully cut -up, without, however, exhibiting any actual gaps or breaches, -which would have befallen stone batteries, under -such a storm of shot and shell; proving the defensive -power of earth-works. Darkness did not stay this devastation; -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_230" id="Page_230">{230}</a></span> -shell and shot continued to whistle through the air, -marking out a line of light to show their flight, and crashing -and bursting against the defences and buildings. The -Malakoff and Redan, when no longer visible in daylight, -were brought out into vivid relief by the bursting of shells -and the flashes of guns. One of the ships in the harbour -caught fire from a shell, and was burnt to the water's edge. -All through the night the fire continued, which prevented -the Russians from repairing their parapets and embrasures, -and with dawn on the 6th, the roar of cannon was only -interrupted by a few intervals to cool the guns. The enemy, -seeing that the hour of peril had arrived, used almost -superhuman exertions to work their batteries; increased -agitation was visible among them, and several movements -seemed to indicate the removal from the south to the -north side of the harbour of all such persons and valuables -as would not be required to render assistance in the -defence. Again did a night of intermittent fire ensue. On -the 7th, another ship was burnt in the harbour by our -shells; flames broke out in the town, and a loud explosion -like that of a magazine took place in the evening.</p> - -<p class="gap-above center">THE NIGHT BEFORE THE BATTLE, <span class="smcap">8th SEPT.,</span> 1855.</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse">To-morrow, comrade, we</div> - <div class="verse">At the Great Redan must be,</div> - <div class="verse indent1">There to conquer, or both lie low</div> - <div class="verse">The morning star is up,</div> - <div class="verse">But there's wine still in the cup,</div> - <div class="verse indent1">And we'll take another tot, ere we go, boys, go,</div> - <div class="verse indent1">And we'll take another tot, ere we go.</div> - </div> - - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="pagenum"><a name="Page_231" id="Page_231">{231}</a></div> - <div class="verse">'Tis true, in warriors' eyes</div> - <div class="verse">Sometimes a tear will rise,</div> - <div class="verse indent1">When we think of our friends left at home;</div> - <div class="verse">But what can wailing do,</div> - <div class="verse">Sure our goblet's weeping too!</div> - <div class="verse indent1">With its tears we'll chase away our own, boys, our own,</div> - <div class="verse indent1">With its tears we'll chase away our own.</div> - </div> - - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse">The morning may be bright;</div> - <div class="verse">But this may be the last night</div> - <div class="verse indent1">That we shall ever pass together;</div> - <div class="verse">The next night where shall we</div> - <div class="verse">And our gallant comrades be?</div> - <div class="verse indent1">But—no matter—grasp thy sword and away, boy, away,</div> - <div class="verse indent1">No matter—grasp thy sword, and away!</div> - </div> - - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse">Let those who brook the lot</div> - <div class="verse">Of the Russian great despot,</div> - <div class="verse indent1">Like cowards at home they may stay;</div> - <div class="verse">Cheers for our Queen be given,</div> - <div class="verse">While our souls we trust to heaven,</div> - <div class="verse indent1">Then for Britain and our Queen, boys, hurra! hurra! hurra!</div> - <div class="verse indent1">Then, for Britain and our Queen, boys, hurra!</div> - </div> - -</div> -</div> - -<div class="right2 small smcap">Thos. Faughnan.</div> - -<p class="gap-above">On the morning of the 8th, a destructive and pitiless -storm of shot and shell continued until noon, when the -fire of our batteries ceased, and the storming columns of -the French issued forth, preceded by riflemen and sappers -and miners. The French had bridges as substitutes for -ladders; the ditch was crossed by the bridges, and the -parapet scaled with surprising celerity. Then commenced -the struggle, with guns, rifles, pistols, swords, bayonets, -and gun-rammers; but in a quarter of an hour the tricolour -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_232" id="Page_232">{232}</a></span> -flag floated on the Malakoff, announcing that the -formidable position was taken.</p> - -<p>Although the French had captured it, the Russians so -well knew its value, it being the key to the whole position, -that they made furious attempts at re-capture. But -the French General judiciously sent powerful reserves to -the support of McMahon, and these reserves maintained -a series of desperate battles against the Russians within -the Malakoff, bayonet against bayonet, musket against -musket, man against man. The contest continued for -several hours; but the French triumphed, and drove the -Russians from their stronghold.</p> - -<p>Anything more wildly disorderly than the interior of -the Malakoff can hardly be imagined. The earth had been -torn up by the explosion of shells, and every foot of the -ground became a frightful scene of bloody struggles; -thousands of dead and wounded men being heaped up -within this one fort alone. As soon as the tricolour was -seen floating on the Malakoff, two rockets gave the signal -for the British columns to storm the Redan. Out rushed -the storming party, preceded by the ladder and covering -party, a mere handful altogether; indeed it appears astonishing -that so few should have been told off for so -great a work; every soldier had a perilous duty assigned -him. The riflemen were to cover the advance of the ladder -party, by shooting down the gunners at the embrasures -of the Redan; the ladder party to place the ladders -in the ditch. As soon as the storming party rushed from -the Quarries, the guns of the Redan opened a fierce -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_233" id="Page_233">{233}</a></span> -fire on them, sweeping them down as they advanced. -Col. Unett, of the 19th Regiment, was one of the first -officers that fell, and Brigadiers Von Straubenzie and -Shirley were both wounded, and scarcely an officer -who advanced with the storming party but got -either killed or wounded. The distance from the Redan -to the Quarries was too great, being over two hundred -yards, which gave the enemy a good opportunity to mow -the storming party down with a tremendous fire of grape, -canister and musketry. The survivors advanced and -reached the abatis, the pointed stakes of which, standing -outward presented a formidable obstacle to further progress; -however the men made gaps through which they -crawled. Then came another rush to the ditch, when -the ladders were found to be too short. However, our -men scrambled down, and climbed up, many falling all -the time under the shot of the enemy. Officers and men -were emulous for the honour of being among the first to -enter this formidable battery; but alas too weak, in the -numbers necessary for such an enterprise. Mounting to -the parapet, the beseigers saw the interior of the Redan -before them filled with masses of soldiers and powerful -ranges of guns and mortars; wild and bloody was the -scene within the assailed fort. Colonel Wyndham (afterwards -Sir Charles) was the first officer to enter; and when -fairly within the parapet, he and the other officers and -men did all they could to dislodge the Russians from behind -the traverse and breast works; but the Russians -overpowered our handful of men that were sent to take -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_234" id="Page_234">{234}</a></span> -this stronghold, for we had no support to back up those -that got a footing in the Redan. The Russians continued -bringing up reinforcements and soon overpowered the -few British, who saw they must either retire or remain to -be shot down. New supporting parties kept arriving in -such driblets and in such confusion as to render impossible -any well directed charge against the place. If, for a time -a few men were collected in a body, volleys of musketry, -grape, canister, and old pieces of iron of every description, -fired from their big guns, levelled our men to the dust. -The officers and men at last seeing no supports coming to -their aid, lost heart and retreated to their trenches.</p> - -<p>The embrasures of the parapets, the ditch, and all -round the abatis became a harrowing scene of death and -wounds; heaps of dead and wounded lay all round the -Redan, and piles of them lay at the bottom of the ditch, -where they fell by the Russian shot, as they climbed up -the scaling ladders. At two o'clock the attack was over, -and in these two hours the British loss was very severe. -No other day throughout the war recorded so many killed -and wounded which amounted to the large number of -2450 in all. The French loss was three times more severe -it comprised no less than 7550 killed and wounded.</p> - -<p>Next day another attack was to be made on the Redan. -Sir Colin Campbell sent down a party cautiously in the -night to see how the Redan was occupied; it was found -to be vacated, telling plainly of the abandonment, by the -Russians, of the south side of the town. It appears that -Gortchakoff, when the impossibility of maintaining his -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_235" id="Page_235">{235}</a></span> -position became evident, commenced blowing up the -public buildings of the town; the gunners, during the -early hours of the night, kept up a sufficient fire to mask -their proceedings in the stillness of the night when the -allied camps were filled with men, either sleeping or -thinking anxiously of the scenes which day-light might -bring forth. Lurid flames began to rise in Sebastopol; -explosions of great violence shook the earth, and intense -commotion was visible to the men in the trenches. The -fires began in various parts of the town, and tremendous -explosions behind the Redan tore up the ground for a -great distance; and other explosions succeeded so rapidly -that a thick, murky mass of smoke and flames from -burning buildings, imparted an awful grandeur to the -scene. Now came a resistless outburst which blew up the -Flagstaff battery; then another blew up the Garden -battery. As day-light approached, Fort Paul, Fort Nicholas -Central, and Quarantine Bastion, were seen surrounded -by flames. We could not withhold our admiration of the -manner in which Gortchakoff carried out his desperate -plan, the last available means of saving the rest of the -garrison.</p> - -<p>On the morning of the 9th September, when the troops -in camp heard the announcement that the mighty city -had fallen, the city which, during twelve months, had, day -by day, been looked at and studied by our generals and engineers, -and in front of which 10,000 of our troops had -been killed or wounded on the preceding day,—with -difficulty was the announcement credited, so accustomed -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_236" id="Page_236">{236}</a></span> -had all been to the dashing of their hopes, and the non-fulfilment -of their predictions. I was one among many -who hastened into the town and was astonished at the -enormous extent of the batteries, and the manner in -which our shot and shell had knocked down and torn up -the massive buildings. The French soldiers rushed into -the town, peered about the burning houses, and plundered -them of chairs, tables, looking-glasses, and countless articles, -and carried them up to their camp. The French -soldiers always keep a bright look-out for plunder. I must -say that our men did not touch a single article, that I -ever heard of, except one man, who found a lot of money -in a bank. He emptied it into his haversack, and left at -once. The bank clerks in their excitement and hurry must -have forgotten to take the money in their haste to get out -of the city. We had a chain of cavalry all round the -town, to keep back stragglers, and stop any person from -taking anything out of the town. Thus ended the wondrous -Siege of Sebastopol. On the 8th of September, -when the allied commanders found that the Russian garrison, -together with inhabitants had crossed to the north -side of the harbour it became their duty to ascertain -whether any traps or explosive mines had been laid by -the enemy, before our troops could be allowed to occupy -the town, to ward off camp followers, and to divide the -spoils of the garrison between the two invading armies; -and to take measures for the destruction of the forts and -docks.</p> - -<p>The appearance of the town, at the time that we entered -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_237" id="Page_237">{237}</a></span> -it, was fearful indeed. Destructive forces had been -raging with a violence never before equalled in the history -of sieges; and the whole internal area was one vast heap -of crumbled earth-work, shattered masonry, shot-pierced -buildings, torn-up streets, scorched timbers, broken guns -and muskets, and shattered vehicles. The buildings were -shattered into forms truly fantastic; some of the lower -stories almost shot away and barely able to support the -superstructure; some with enormous gaps in the walls. -Proofs were manifold that the Russians intended to defend -the town street by street, had we forced an entrance -for across every street were constructed barricades defended -by field pieces. In some of the best houses columns -were broken by shot, ceilings falling, which these -columns had once supported; elegant furniture crushed -beneath broken cornices, beams, and fragments of broken -looking-glasses, mingled with the dust on the marble floors. -The effect of our 13-inch shells had been extraordinary. -These dread missiles, of which so many thousand had been -thrown into the town, weigh 200 pounds each, and falling -from a great height, have the weight of over sixty tons -descending deep below the foundation of the houses, and -when they explode, scattering everything around far and -wide. Our army still continued to encamp outside the -town, sending only as many troops as would suffice to -guard it, and take up the principal buildings among the -ruins for guard-houses. Now we have plenty of wood, each -company sending a fatigue party daily from the camp to -Sebastopol for it. These parties could be seen by the -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_238" id="Page_238">{238}</a></span> -Russians from the north side pulling down the houses for -the wood, and carrying it to camp. While doing so the -Russians invariably fire upon us, from the north side of -the harbour, where they have thrown up very strong forts, -armed with the heaviest guns. They have placed some -of those guns with the breach sunk into the ground, in -order to get elevation, and throw shot right into our -camp amongst our tents, not unfrequently killing and -wounding our men.</p> - -<p>We have now regular guards and sentries all over Sebastopol. -After posting a sentry one day, I happened to -go down some steps which led to the basement of a large -building, and there I found to my horror fifteen dead -Russians. My sense of smell first detected them in the -dark vault; they were in the worst state of putrefaction. -It was found on removing them that they had all been -wounded, and had crawled in there and died from their -wounds. We buried them where thousands of their comrades -were buried, in rear of the Redan. The army is -now quiet—no firing except an odd shot from the Russians -at our fatigue parties in Sebastopol. We have no -trench duty to perform—nothing but the regular camp -guards; we have plenty of fuel and good rations; any -amount of canteens on the ground, so we are making up -now in comfort for the hard times we had last winter. -The army was now at a stand-still, having nothing to occupy -their time.</p> - -<p>But the commanders began to look forward to a second -wintering in the Crimea as a probability. Invaluable as -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_239" id="Page_239">{239}</a></span> -the railway had become, it was inadequate to the conveyance -of the immense bulk and weight of supplies required -day by day in the army, and hence it is necessary -to do that which, if done in the early part of last winter, -would have saved so many valuable lives—to construct -a new road from Balaklava to the camp. Therefore the -road was laid out and large numbers of our men worked -on it daily; but making roads is only child's play compared -with making trenches under shot, shell, grape and -canister. The whole of the divisions were kept continually -at road-making; the road promises to be a splendid -one, and we were all anxious to make it. We had no less -than 10,000 men working on this road, between Balaklava -and the front. By the end of October a most excellent -road was constructed, including branch roads to the several -divisions. The French at the same time constructed -a road across the valley which connects their camp with -the main road to Kamiesch; and besides they have improved -the old Tartar roads.</p> - -<p>Our army suffered much last winter from the want of -roads. This excellent road which the British army has -constructed, will ever remain as a memento of British -occupation. During the three weeks of September which -followed the evacuation of the south side of Sebastopol -the Russians were quietly but actively strengthening -their fortifications on the north side, making all the -heights bristle with guns, and firing a shot whenever an -opportunity offered to work mischief upon our guards, -sentries, and fatigue-parties in the town. We had planted -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_240" id="Page_240">{240}</a></span> -a few guns in position so as to bear on the northern -heights; but no disposition was shown to open a regular -fire on them, except an odd shot to remind them that we -were ready for them at any time.</p> - -<p>Camp rumours arose concerning some supposed expedition -into the interior of the Crimea, but the securing of -the captured city was regarded as the first duty.</p> - -<p>On the 20th September, 1855, the anniversary of the -battle of the Alma, a distribution of the medals for the -Crimea, and clasps for Alma, Balaklava and Inkerman, -took place among the troops; these decorations were very -much appreciated by the officers and men. The day was -commemorated with much festivity and amusement in -both camps.</p> - -<div class="image-center"> - <img src="images/dec-5.jpg" width="150" height="54" alt="dec"/> -</div> - -<div> - -<div class="pagenum"><a name="Page_241" id="Page_241">{241}</a></div> - -<div class="image-center"> - <img src="images/bar-3.jpg" width="350" height="60" alt="bar"/> -</div> - -<h2>CHAPTER XXII.</h2> - -<p class="header">EXPEDITION TO KINBURN—THE VOYAGE—ODESSA—LANDING—CUTTING -TRENCHES—BOMBARDMENT—THE WHITE FLAG—CAPITULATION—THE -PRISONERS—RECONNAISSANCE—THE MARCH—VILLAGE—BIVOUAC—MARCH—A -VILLAGE—PIGS AND GEESE—DEPARTURE—THE -FLEET—RETURN—SIR W. CODRINGTON—RUSSIAN SPY.</p> - -</div> - -<div> - <img class="drop-cap" src="images/drop-a.jpg" width="64" height="80" alt="a"/> -</div> - -<p class="drop-cap"><span class="uppercase">An</span> -expedition to Kinburn having been decided upon -by the allies, on the 6th of October a squadron of -H. M. fleet were in readiness at Kamiesch Bay to convey -the 17th, 20th, 21st, 57th, and 63rd Regiments, together -with marines, artillery and engineers under the command -of General Spencer. As we marched to Kamiesch Bay -the morning was close and sultry. When we got a third of -the way private Hanratty fell out of the ranks and reported -himself sick, when Captain Smith calls out, "Corporal -Faughnan, take Hanratty back to hospital." "Yes, -sir," says I, we were then marching down a very steep -hill. I marched back to the hospital, although I was -badly able, for I was bad with dysentery myself at the -time, and for upwards of two weeks previously, and was -so weak that I could scarcely march; but I did not wish -to give in and be left behind. After I gave over the sick -man, I saw the regiment a long way off in the valley. I -marched as fast as I was able with a full kit. In the -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_242" id="Page_242">{242}</a></span> -afternoon rain commenced to drizzle, and the regiment -halted to cloak. I then gained on them and soon overtook -them. When we halted at the beach I could have fallen -down from weakness and exhaustion, but I kept up my -pluck and never gave in. The troops were embarked on -board the fleet by small steam-tenders; the 17th Regiment -had the honour of being conveyed to Kinburn by -the flag-ship "Royal Albert."</p> - -<p>On the 7th October, the troops having been on board, -and everything ready, we set sail, accompanied by several -line-of-battle ships, small steamers, gun-boats, mortar-vessels, -and three French floating batteries, constituting -an armament of great magnitude. The English squadron -comprised six steam line-of-battle ships, seventeen steam -frigates, ten gun-boats, six mortar vessels, three steam -tenders and ten transports. The Russians north of Sebastopol -were in wild excitement when this large squadron -appeared; but the ships soon disappeared from the Crimea.</p> - -<p>The admirals signalled to the several captains to rendezvous -off Odessa. As we got out to sea the band discoursed -music while the officers were at dinner; before dinner -they played as usual the "Roast Beef of Old England," -which we had not heard for many months before.</p> - -<p>We had no hammocks, so we were obliged to lie all -round the decks in groups during the night. At eight -o'clock next morning we cast anchor off Odessa, three -miles from the town. It was then the turn for the citizens -to be alarmed by this display of force.</p> - -<p>The Russians on the heights, in barrack square and all -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_243" id="Page_243">{243}</a></span> -round the city became incessantly active in making observations. -We could see the old fashioned telegraph on -the towers along the coast working, and clouds of Cossacks, -infantry and artillery, formed up along the cliffs, -ready to defend the place if attacked. All day on the -9th the fleet remained at anchor, about 80 French and -English vessels forming a line six miles in length, eagerly -watched from the cliffs by large masses of troops. The -rocket-boats, gun-boats, mortar-vessels, and floating batteries -might have gone nearer and crumbled the city to -ruins; but such was not our orders, and not a shot was -fired, and thus was Odessa spared for the third time -during the war.</p> - -<p>The object of the admirals in making this feint on -Odessa, was to draw the Russian troops away from Kinburn, -thereby reducing the number of troops in that -garrison.</p> - -<p>The 10th and 11th we were still at anchor, dense fogs -giving the seamen a foretaste of the dangers of that coast; -and as the 12th and 13th were very stormy, the admirals -would not risk leaving until the weather moderated; -thus it happened that the citizens had the threatening -fleet in view for six days. The squadrons weighed anchor -on the morning of the 14th, and cast anchor off Kinburn -that afternoon; in the evening some of the French and -English gun-boats entered the estuary of the Dneiper, -passing the Fort of Kinburn under a heavy fire from the -enemy.</p> - -<p>On the morning of the 15th the troops were landed -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_244" id="Page_244">{244}</a></span> -along the beach out of range of the fort, by the launches -of the ships, each being filled with soldiers, and made -fast to each other by means of the painter. After the -troops were all got into the launches, they formed several -long lines of red coats in little boats—each boat was -steered by a naval officer.</p> - -<p>The front boat of the line being made fast to a small -steamer, the whole were then towed in front of the beach -where we were to land. As the steamer ran in towards -the shore, she cast off the line of boats, and while they -were under way each let go the painter, and headed -towards the beach running in close on a sandy bottom, -when the troops jumped ashore and deployed from where -we landed to the River Dneiper, while the gun-boats went -up the river. By this double manœuvre the Russians -were prevented from receiving reinforcements by sea, -while the garrison were cut off by land. In the evening -the mortar vessels began to try their range on the forts.</p> - -<p>The troops brought no tents, and only three days' rations. -After posting outlying pickets, we were set to work cutting -a trench from the sea where we landed to the river -Dneiper, a distance of five miles. While we were digging -the trench during the day, the outlying pickets had a -skirmish with a small force of Cossacks; but the chief -labour was the landing of stores and artillery, tedious and -dangerous work over the rough surf, occasioning the -swamping of some of the boats. A camp was formed, but -without tents. At two o'clock in the morning we had -the trench cut and manned ready to receive the Russian -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_245" id="Page_245">{245}</a></span> -reinforcements for the garrison, which were expected from -Odessa, but which did not come. However, a large force -of Cossacks came along at three o'clock in the morning, -when we opened a heavy fire upon them from our new -trench, forcing them to retire quicker than they came, -we then kept a good look-out till morning. Generals -Spencer and Bazaine made a cavalry <i>reconnaissance</i> at -day-break, when the Cossacks retired altogether.</p> - -<p>About four companies of the French and English -marksmen were placed under cover at a distance of four -hundred yards in rear of the fort, and kept up a fusilade -on the Russian gunners; while at the same time the -artillery opened a strong fire on the fort; at nine o'clock -the ships opened fire on the garrison.</p> - -<p>The "Royal Albert," "Algiers," "Agamemnon," and -"Princess Royal," and four ships of the line, approached -abreast of the principal fort; the "Tribune" and "Sphinx" -attacked the earth-work battery. The "Hannibal," -"Dauntless," and "Terrible," took position opposite the -battery near the end of the fort, while the smaller vessels -directed their attack on the east and centre of the fort. -Thus the Russians, from the shape and position of the -fort, were attacked on all sides at once. Each ship poured -its broadside upon the port and the strand batteries as it -passed, and received the enemy's fire in return. From -nine o'clock until noon these powerful vessels maintained -their terrible fire against the forts, crashing the parapets -and disabling the guns, while the mortar vessels set fire -to the buildings within the fort. The "Arrow" and -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_246" id="Page_246">{246}</a></span> -"Lynx," with others, were exposed to much danger. Having -taken up a position close to the batteries to discharge -their shell upon the fort, they received in return an iron -torrent which tried the resolution of the crew.</p> - -<p>At twelve o'clock the Russians hoisted a white flag, -when an English and a French officer met the Governor at -the entrance of the fort, when he tendered his surrender -in military form by giving up his sword, but not without -bitter tears and a passionate exclamation expressive of -wounded national and professional honour. The officers -bore the scene with dignity, but with deep mortification, -and many of them were on the verge of mutiny against -the Governor, so strong did they resist any proposals of -surrender. The garrison laid down their arms, and were -marched outside the town and placed close to our camp, -with a chain of sentries and the French around them. -The number of prisoners taken was 1,500, besides 500 -killed and wounded; several of our doctors were sent to -attend their wounded in the fort.</p> - -<p>The prisoners were divided, the English half were taken -on board the "Vulcan," while the other half were taken -on board the French ships. The prisoners having been -sent off to Constantinople, the captors proceeded to garrison -Kinburn, repairing and increasing the defences, -clearing away the ruins, repairing the walls and embrasures, -replacing the damaged cannon by large ship guns, -deepening the ditch, reforming the palisades, strengthening -the parapets, restoring the casemates, completing -efficient barracks and magazines, in the interior of the -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_247" id="Page_247">{247}</a></span> -fort, and depositing a large amount of military stores of -all kinds.</p> - -<p>When the small garrison, the other side of the estuary, -opposite Kinburn, Aczakoff, found that their guns could -effect little against the invaders, and that Kinburn was -forced to yield, they blew up the St. Nicholas battery, on -the morning of the 18th, and retired a few hours afterwards. -On the 20th Generals Spencer and Bazaine set -out on a <i>reconnaissance</i> with several regiments of both -forces, about five thousand strong. After marching on a -sandy plain, like a desert, ten miles, we halted close to a -village, piled arms, and were allowed to go foraging into -the village, which we found deserted by the inhabitants; -but they left abundance of pigs, geese, fowls and provisions, -bread baking in the ovens, pails of milk and several -other most useful articles, besides in the gardens we -found abundance of potatoes, cabbage, tomatoes, pumpkins, -and almost all sorts of vegetables. We divided the town -with the French; after tearing down several houses for -fuel and making camp fires, we commenced cooking fowls, -turkeys, geese, potatoes, cabbages and vegetables; while -others were off through the village killing pigs, geese, -turkeys, and chickens, others cutting down branches of -trees from a wood hard by, for the purpose of making -huts to protect us for the night, as we had no tents, and -covering them with hay from the hay yards, and shaking -plenty of hay inside to lie on; every mess erected one -of these huts. After indulging in the good things, which -I can assure you we enjoyed, we lay down very comfortably -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_248" id="Page_248">{248}</a></span> -for the night in the hay, and slept most soundly. -Next day at two o'clock General Spencer reviewed the -troops under his command, with the French General and -his soldiers looking on. We were to have the pleasure of -another night in this camp. After enjoying boiled fowls, -roast turkeys and plenty of fresh vegetables, we lay down -among the hay and slept well, thanks be to God. Next -morning, after breakfast, we marched to another village -named Roosker, ten miles off. We halted outside the village, -and sent in foraging parties from each regiment, -dividing the town with the French and placing line of -sentries in the centre. As we approached the village, the -people fled, leaving everything behind, pigs, geese, ducks, -fowls, bread, milk and butter. As we killed the live stock, -we placed them on the commissariat waggons and brought -the spoils back to camp. It was a most amusing scene, -the French and English officers and soldiers shooting -geese, ducks and hens, with their revolvers, and the men -chasing the pigs and stabbing them with their bayonets. -A soldier catches a pig by the hind leg, the animal drags -him into the French lines, when a French soldier claims -the animal, and a kind of a good natured quarrel ensues -about the ownership of the pig. The geese rose in flocks, -and the officers had the greatest sport shooting them. -These were jolly times. After ransacking the town, we -set fire to it, and marched back to our old bivouac, ten -miles distant.</p> - -<p>After arriving at our old camp ground, lo and behold! -our huts were all demolished, and not a thing left on the -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_249" id="Page_249">{249}</a></span> -ground. The Cossacks had been there during our absence, -and burned and destroyed everything. We could see -them away in the distance, about 400 strong, watching -our movements; however, we bivouacked there as best we -could that night. As we marched back, we passed several -windmills which we set fire to. Next morning we -marched to Kinburn with the commissariat waggons -loaded with pigs, geese, fowls, turkeys, potatoes, and cabbage, -which were served out as rations in the usual -manner.</p> - -<p>On the 28th October, Generals Spencer and Bazaine began -their arrangements for our departure, first shipping -all the stores, guns, and horses, and selecting a sufficient -number of troops to garrison and guard Kinburn during -the winter; but to bring away all the other forces. Sir -Edmund Lyons and the French Admiral selected the vessels -which were to be left to protect the place from any -Russian attack across the estuary. On the morning of -the 29th, troops embarked on board the fleet from the -wharf at Kinburn.</p> - -<p>The 17th Regiment was conveyed to the Crimea, by -the "Terrible." It was a most imposing spectacle, this -magnificent fleet sailing in line with the two flag ships -leading, and signalling their orders to the captains of the -other ships; the line extended over ten miles. What must -the Russians along the coast think of this immense armament? -The fleet cast anchor in Kamiesch Bay, on the -1st November; and the troops disembarked at once and -marched to our old camp on Cathcart's hill.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_250" id="Page_250">{250}</a></span> -This expedition did the troops more good than all the -medicine in the hospital could have done. I was a new -man when I got back. If Hanratty had braved it out as I -did, and had come on with the expedition, he might have -been well by this time, instead of which he is yet in hospital. -The change of air and fresh vegetables worked -wonders in restoring and invigorating the men's health. -On our return to camp we found that a quantity of rum -which was left behind, with other regimental stores, in -charge of a sergeant and twelve men was all gone; for -which the sergeant was tried and reduced, and the privates -were severely punished.</p> - -<p>During the month of November we had another change -in the command of the army, the appointment of General -Sir W. J. Codrington, vice General Simpson. The appointment -of Sir William was very popular with the army, -and brought increased activity among the troops.</p> - -<p>Among other improvements, which were made to meet -the wants of the army, was a large reservoir in the ravine -between the 2nd light, and the 4th divisions, in the construction -of which the French took a prominent part. -This reservoir is capable of supplying three divisions of -the British and three of the French with abundance of -good spring water during winter and summer. Everything -seems to have been done now to protect and meet -the wants of the army during the coming winter. Almost -every kind of supplies is in abundance, and the army in -the best of health and spirits.</p> - -<p>I was in command of a divisional guard, near Tchernaya -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_251" id="Page_251">{251}</a></span> -valley, when a Russian spy was given in my charge -by a cavalry <i>reconnaissance</i> party. I immediately posted -a sentry to take charge of this prisoner; but he watched -his opportunity and slipped out under the fly of the tent. -The sentry gave the alarm, when I rushed out after him, -calling a file of the guard to follow me. As I gave him -chase, I threw off my accoutrements, in order to give me -more freedom; he had then about one hundred and fifty -yards start of me, and was barefooted, whilst I had heavy -boots on; however, I gave him chase. We had run about two -miles when I saw that I was gaining on him, and I kept -gaining, little by little, for about five miles, when I came -up behind him. I was then nearly out of breath; I kept -close behind him a good while till I got my wind, then -I threw my foot before him with the Connaught touch, -and pitched him on his face; then I jumped on him and -held him, keeping him down, lest he might overpower me -if he got up, as he was a most powerful man, and the file -of the guard had not come up to us yet. While I gave him -an odd kick, he begged for mercy, which I granted, and -marched the Tartar back, meeting the file of the guard -as I was returning. If I had let that spy escape, I would -have been tried by a court-martial; but my Irish experience -in running, before I joined the service, stood to me -then; I would have run after him into the Russian camp -before I would have lost him. When I got back to the -tent, I tied him to the pole with a guy rope, at the same -time tying his hands behind his back. I was determined -he should not get away again.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_252" id="Page_252">{252}</a></span> -The camp followers and speculators have got so numerous -that they have a large bazaar formed in the rear of -the 4th division. Large shops of almost every description, -saloons, billiard tables, restaurants, hotels, groceries, tobacconists, -wholesale and retail liquor stores, and in fact -almost everything that can be got in any town, can be -had here for cash. There is another large bazaar in the -French camp. As we assemble in Smith & Co.'s liquor -store of an evening, drinking "Guiness's bottled stout," -smoking our pipe or cigar with the greatest of comfort, we -could but contrast our position with that of this time last -year, when the inclement weather commenced. The want -of food, forage, huts, clothing, fuel, medicine, roads, -vehicles and horses, proved its tragic results. Men lay -down in the mire to die of despair, and no commanding -officer could tell how many of his poor soldiers would be -available for duty next day. But now, towards the close -of 1855, we have every kind of supply in abundance, -thanks to the people of England! The army is well fed -and well clothed, and we are looking out for some active -operations against the enemy. The Russians continue to -fortify the northern heights without firing a shot, and we -occupy the south quietly, without disturbing them. How -long this will last will be seen in the next chapter.</p> - -<div> - -<div class="pagenum"><a name="Page_253" id="Page_253">{253}</a></div> - -<div class="image-center"> - <img src="images/bar-5.jpg" width="350" height="58" alt="bar"/> -</div> - -<h2>CHAPTER XXIII.</h2> - -<p class="header">ARMISTICE—CESSATION OF HOSTILITIES—EXCHANGE OF COINS—HEIR -TO FRENCH IMPERIAL THRONE—TREATY OF PEACE—INVITATIONS—GRAND -REVIEW—REMOVAL OF THE ARMY—EMBARKATION—THE -VOYAGE—SHIP ON FIRE—ARRIVAL AT MALTA—JOIN THE RESERVE -BATTALION—PROCEED TO ALEXANDRIA—THE VOYAGE—ARRIVAL—VISIT -PLACES OF RENOWN—VISIT CAIRO—THE NILE—ARRIVAL—THE -CITY—BAZAARS.</p> - -</div> - -<div> - <img class="drop-cap" src="images/drop-a.jpg" width="64" height="80" alt="a"/> -</div> - -<p class="drop-cap"><span class="uppercase">At</span> -the end of February, 1856, the diplomatists at -Paris agreed upon an armistice during the discussion -of a treaty of peace. The immediate effect was -observable in the Crimea, as soon as the several commanders -had received information. On the morning of -the 1st March, a white flag was hoisted on the Tchernaya -bridge, and near it assembled the Russian commander, a -staff of officers, and a troop of Cossacks. The English -commander with his staff, accompanied by others from -the French and Sardinians, descended across the valley to -the bridge where they met the Russians with whom they -discussed the details of an armistice. The cessation of -hostilities was to last one month, during the consideration -of the treaty. Through the aid of their interpreters they -decided that the Tchernaya river was to be the boundary -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_254" id="Page_254">{254}</a></span> -between the opposing armies. The quietest month spent -by the allied armies in the Crimea was the month of -March, 1856. Hostilities were entirely stopped, and yet -none could say whether they might not commence again -with all their horrors. The diplomatists at Paris had one -month to decide the question of peace or war.</p> - -<p>The commanders, while maintaining their boundary -arrangement, did not prohibit friendly meetings of the -opposing armies on their respective banks of the boundary -line, where the officers and soldiers frequently assembled -to look at each other in peace and try to converse in a -friendly manner across the stream, when the exchange -of coins and other small articles or mementoes took place, -and an interchange of civilities such as "bono Johnny," -"bono Francais," "bono Roos," besides other complimentary -expressions. This intercourse was kept up during -the month of the armistice. For the rest, the operations -of the month differed little from those of the camp at -Aldershot, all the divisions being exercised and reviewed -in the open spots all round the camp. Sometimes the -Russians held their reviews on the same day that we did, -with the glittering bayonets of each full in view of the -other, and both alike safe in the conviction that no unfriendly -shot would disturb the pageant.</p> - -<p>On the 23rd of this month, festivities in the French -camp celebrated the birth of an heir to the French imperial -throne; bonfires were kindled, guns fired, reviews -held, horse-racing on the banks of the Tchernaya, healths -drank by the French and their allies, even the Russians -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_255" id="Page_255">{255}</a></span> -participated in the rejoicings, for they lighted fires all -along their lines.</p> - -<p>April brought with it the treaty of peace. Before the -hour had arrived when the armistice would have expired, -news was received that the treaty had been signed at -Paris. When peace was proclaimed, an interchange of -invitations took place between the Russian army and the -allies. The Russian soldiers came over to our camp, in -small parties at a time, and we did the same to their -camp, each party in charge of a non-commissioned officer. -I and twelve privates visited the Russian camp and their -bazaar, which we found much the same as our own. All -sorts of English goods were sold there, even "Bass's -bottled ale," and "Guiness's porter," at a dollar a bottle. -Their bread was as black as your boot; the coffee-houses -were crowded with English, French and Russian soldiers, -drinking, singing, and dancing; and the interchange of -any amount of "bono Johnnys," "bono Roos," and "bono -Francais," trying to make each other believe that they -were great friends.</p> - -<p>On the 17th April, the British and French troops had -a grand review on the heights near St. George's Monastery -(at which General Luders, the Russian commander, -with his brilliant staff, was present). They were formed up -in line of continuous quarter distance columns of battalions, -when the commanders of the different armies with their -gorgeous retinue of staff and cavalry officers rode along -the line, with the bands of each regiment playing in succession; -after which they marched past the grand assemblage -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_256" id="Page_256">{256}</a></span> -of commanders and staff, in quick time, each regiment -marching past in grand division style, with its band playing -in front. General Luders returned deeply impressed -with the appearance of the allied armies, and expressed -himself much gratified at the attention shown him by the -allied forces. Duties of a more serious character, however, -now demanded the attention of the Generals. Large armies -were to be removed from the Crimea, and vast stores of provisions -and ammunition; besides all the round shot the Russians had fired -at us during the siege, which we had gathered -and carried on our back to the railway depôt for shipment -to England with all the commissariat stores brought down -from each divisional depôt at the front where they had been -collected in such immense quantities. Day after day, -during the summer months, did the various regiments -leave the Crimea, some for Malta, others for the Ionian -Islands, the West Indies, or Canada, but the greater part -for England. All the camp equipage and stores for each -regiment had to be brought into transport order, and -everything brought to Balaklava for shipment.</p> - -<p>About the 10th of May the 17th Regiment marched -from their old camp on Cathcart's Hill, and embarked at -Balaklava at two o'clock in the afternoon, on board the -steam transport "Sir Robert Low." At 3 p.m. we moved -slowly out between the rocks which overhang the narrow -entrance to the harbour. We were all on deck with tears -in our eyes, taking a last sad look towards "Cathcart's -Hill" where we had left so many noble comrades behind -in that cold desolate plateau, so far away from friends and -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_257" id="Page_257">{257}</a></span> -relatives; these thoughts filled us with sadness. As our -ship glided through the beautiful calm, blue waters of the -Euxine, the land faded from our view. We then turned our -thoughts homewards after giving thanks to God for the -great mercy he had shown in bringing us safely through -all the death struggles and hardships which our brave -troops had suffered; and now that we were returning alive -we had every reason to be thankful.</p> - -<p>The weather being fine, we made the passage across the -Black Sea in 48 hours. The second day at two p.m., we passed -the old fortress of Riva which commands the entrance to -the Bosphorus, passing Constantinople at 3 o'clock, taking -a last look at that strange old city, with its picturesque -sights, the tall minarets and the blue waters of the Bosphorus -catching the golden light as the sun dipped behind -the distant hills. We rounded Seraglio point and steamed -down the Marmora, passing the Seven Towers on our -right, and slowly the beautiful city faded from our view -forever. We had a smooth passage across the Sea of Marmora. -Next morning at ten o'clock we passed Gallipoli. -On the 14th May, at 9 o'clock in the evening, as our ship -was running at the rate of ten knots an hour, an alarm -of fire came from the cook's galley. The troops were immediately -formed up along the decks, and the pumps manned. -After a quarter of an hour's hard work we mastered the fire, -and put it out, but not before it had burned a large hole -in the ship's deck, and destroyed the galley. We had in -truth a narrow escape, the fire nearly getting the better -of us. On the morning of the 17th May we arrived at -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_258" id="Page_258">{258}</a></span> -Malta, where we received orders to proceed to Quebec. -The Regiment being over the strength of non-commissioned -officers, those who had families at home got the -preference of remaining behind, and joining the reserve -battalion at Malta. I was one of the latter; after bidding -good-bye to the old regiment, with tears in my eyes, -I disembarked with twelve others and joined the reserve -battalion. The regiment proceeding to Canada next -morning at 8 o'clock, we after landing, were quartered in -Strada Reale Barracks.</p> - -<p>The garrison was at this time filled with the soldiers of -more than one nation, and the medley of tongues was -rather bewildering to the ears, as was the diversity of -costume to the eyes. There were the Italian and German -Legions promenading the streets in their gay uniforms, -Malta fencibles, English artillery and infantry. The -large number of soldiers in such a small place made it a -perfect military hot-house.</p> - -<p>The Strada Reale, with its lazy moving crowds and -singular architecture, was soon entered. Lights were -beginning to brighten the shop-windows and streets; occasionally -sparkling from the numerous bay-windows -above; but though the night was approaching, the air, -deeply impregnated with the fumes of tobacco and odour -of garlic, was close and suffocating, more especially from -the intense heat exhaled from the arid rock, which had all -day blazed under a fierce sun. The barracks were so -crowded, and the weather so hot, that the doctor ordered -the 17th under canvas at St. Frances' Camp. An order -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_259" id="Page_259">{259}</a></span> -detailed your humble servant, Corporal Faughnan, to -proceed on June 6th, by one of the Peninsular and Oriental -Company's steamers, to Alexandria, there to take over -some marine invalids according to written instructions, and -take charge of them to Malta.</p> - -<p>June 6th. At nine o'clock, a.m., I embarked on board -the steamer for Alexandria. As we passed out of the -harbour at 9.30, the sky was blue and pleasant, the air -balmy and clear. The Island, like a blue cloud in the -distance, faded away, and again the trackless waste of -waters stretched like a boundless expanse around us.</p> - -<p>June 9th. It is now three days since we left Malta. -We should have been in harbour to-day, but have been -retarded somewhat by head winds.</p> - -<p>June 10th. Expecting to enter port this morning, I -was early on deck. We were already in sight of land. -As we neared the coast, one of the first things that caught -my attention was the number of windmills, standing upon -an eminence along the shore; at first they reminded me -of a line of soldiers in skirmishing order, but as we neared -them they lifted their tall, circular forms, and stretched -out their sheeted arms, like huge sentinels keeping watch -along the coast. The entrance to the harbour is a tortuous -and difficult one; vessels cannot get in by night or -by day without a very experienced pilot. We were -straining our eyes to catch the first glimpse of the strange -land, and there, just upon that projecting point of land -we are now passing, where you see an insignificant lighthouse, -stood a famous and costly tower, bearing upon its -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_260" id="Page_260">{260}</a></span> -top, as it lifted its colossal form above the waves, a beacon-light -to guide the mariner to his haven. It is said to have -been so lofty it could be seen one hundred miles at sea—which -of course, is a mistake. The gigantic tower of white -marble was erected by the old Egyptian kings three hundred -years before the birth of Christ. It was one of the -"seven wonders of the world." But here we are safe at our -moorings. How strange everything looks. There are -the hulks of a number of great old ships, rotting away -and falling to pieces into the water. They were once the -Viceroy's fleet. The flags of many nations float from the -masts around us. There is a boat approaching with a -Union Jack flying, and manned with blue jackets.</p> - -<p>After landing the passengers, we had to pass through -the Custom House. A liveried servant in Turkish costume, -guarding the door, politely bowed us through, and -we stood before the receiver of customs. He wore a rich -Turkish costume, a magnificent turban on his head, a gold-hilted -sword by his side; he addressed us in English and -called all our names from a list; as we answered we passed -on. No other questions were asked; personal baggage is -seldom examined at this port. We had scarcely passed the -door before we were surrounded by a crowd of donkey -boys in blue shirts and red fez caps. They began pulling -and snatching at our baggage for the privilege of taking -it to a hotel. Luckily, an omnibus,—a European innovation,—from -the very hotel we had selected, stood at -the entrance, and we made a sudden dash into it. A crack -of the driver's whip, and we were whirling through the -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_261" id="Page_261">{261}</a></span> -dirty, narrow streets of the Turkish quarter of the city. -We soon emerged into the English part of the town, and -a magical change came over the scene; a fine open square -ornamented with fountains and surrounded with beautiful -stone houses presented a most inviting appearance. -A runner from the hotel conducted me to the Marine -Hospital, when I presented the order for the invalids to -return with me to Malta, when the surgeon informed me -that two of the men had had a relapse and could not be -removed for some time. This gave me a good opportunity -to visit several of the renowned localities, places of antiquity, -and monumental records, that the ravages of war -and the wreck of time have failed to obliterate. During -the voyage I had made the acquaintance of two Frenchmen, -and after I got back to the hotel they were pleased -when I told them that I would have to stop at Alexandria -for some time, and did not know how long; they -could speak English pretty well and we got quite familiar. -The hotel was kept by a Frenchman, and the business of -the hotel was conducted on the European plan, but the -floors and walls were constantly crumbling, scattering -sand and lime upon clothes and furniture, and affording -plenty of hiding places for bugs and fleas. Of the presence -of the latter we had too strong demonstration, but fleas -in Egypt are as common as sand on the sea shore, and we -made up our mind to pay the tribute of blood demanded -by those pests, with the resignation of martyrs.</p> - -<p>We next visited Cleopatra's Needle, since removed to -London. Of these remarkable obelisks there are two, -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_262" id="Page_262">{262}</a></span> -just within the walls and near the sea shore at the northeast -angle of the city—one is standing, the other has -fallen down and is now nearly buried in the ground. They -are of the same material as Pompey's Pillar, red granite, -from the quarries of upper Egypt. These two obelisks -stood about seventy paces apart; the fallen one lies close -to the pedestal; its length, in its mutilated state, is sixty-six -feet, and was given, many years ago, by Mohammed -Ali to the British Government, who have lately brought -it home. The standing one is about seventy feet high, -seven feet seven inches in diameter at the base, and tapering -towards the top about five feet.</p> - -<p>Next day we visited the Catacombs, which are about -three miles outside the city; the Frenchmen hired a guide -and we all rode on donkeys. The grounds near the entrance -were once covered with costly habitations and -beautiful gardens. The vast extent of these underground -tenements, their architecture, symmetry, and beauty; the -more wonderful from the fact that they are all chiselled -out of the solid rock, must excite the greatest wonder and -admiration. In these tombs, generation after generation -have laid their dead; Egyptians, Persians, Greeks, Romans -and Saracens have, no doubt, in turn used them, and different -nations have here blended in the common dust, at least -such is the common opinion. Ancient Alexandria, with all -her magnificence and splendour, is now nothing but heaps -of ruins. The modern city stands upon the ruins of the -past—well may we say the great, immortal past. An Egyptian -city at night is a gloomy place—business suspended, -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_263" id="Page_263">{263}</a></span> -shops all closed, no amusements, no meetings, no windows -next the street to shed even a little light upon the -gloomy alleys; all is involved in Egyptian darkness, but -silence is not there, for dogs are among the wondrous -speakers of this land. They howl about in packs like -wolves, owning no master, making night hideous with -their row and fights; in addition to this, the watchman's -yell rang through the city every quarter of an hour; it -woke me more than the guns before Sebastopol; a calm of -fifteen minutes succeeds, and again the lengthened shout -assures the citizen "all is well." Being disturbed by the -watchman's call, howling of dogs, bugs and fleas, we could -not sleep, so we were up early and had breakfast at seven -o'clock, after which we all agreed to visit Cairo, and at -once proceeded to the railway station, which, by the way, -has only been lately constructed. The present facilities for -reaching Cairo can only be appreciated by those who have -been familiar with the former slow locomotion of canal -and river. Then it was by the toilsome process of wind -and oars. Now a first-class railroad of about one hundred -miles connects the cities. At ten a.m., the signal -was given, and we struck out into the great delta of the -Nile; away to the left is the harbour of Aboukir, where -the immortal Nelson with his fleet met the French in -1798. His victory was complete; all the French ships -except two, were captured, and the victor was rewarded -with the title, "Baron Nelson of the Nile."</p> - -<p>The immense green plain stretched out each side of us as -far as the eye could reach. Crops of some kind are raised all -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_264" id="Page_264">{264}</a></span> -the year round, except while the soil is covered with water -from the inundation of the Nile. There is no cold weather -to prevent the growth of vegetables. Look out of the -carriage window: do you see that long line of water just -by the side of us? It is the Nile. The Nile! The famous -Nile, that has a place in history with the Euphrates -and the Jordan;—for thousands of years sending out a living -flood from its mysterious and hidden sources, rolling -onward through this great valley, and emptying itself, by -its seven mouths, into the blue sea; a river which the -Egyptians worshipped, and whose waters, by the rod of -Moses, were turned into blood.</p> - -<p>About 5 p.m., our train came to a halt in the station of -Grand Cairo. We landed on the platform amid the -strangest crowd of human beings I had ever seen congregated. -There was the Turkish official, with his great -loose sleeves and flowing robes, gold hilted sword and -turbaned head, loathsome looking beggars, wretched -women and squalid children. As we emerged from the -station, a hotel porter, in English costume, addressed us in -English, "Shepherd's hotel, sir? Omnibus just here, all -right!" and in fifteen minutes we were in a good European -hotel, built in the oriental style, with a large open -court and pleasure-grounds; terms only two dollars a day. -After tea, which was ready on our arrival at the hotel, we -took a walk through the city. The streets are numerous, -narrow and crooked, there being but one in the business -part of the town wide enough for a carriage; this public -thoroughfare being only about 35 feet wide, many of the -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_265" id="Page_265">{265}</a></span> -others are not more than ten feet. The upper stories of -the houses projecting over the lower ones, and the large -prominent windows projecting still beyond the houses, the -windows of the upper stories are brought so near together, -you could easily step from one to the other. The bazaars -are very busy places, and are thronged by a mixed and -motley multitude of people, camels, horses, donkeys, men, -women, and children, mingled together in strange confusion, -while the noise and bustle present a wild and -striking scene that can be nowhere witnessed but in an -Arabic city. Amid this wild confusion may be seen a -great variety of oriental costumes. But the turbaned -heads predominate, the black of the Copt, the blue-black -of the Jew, the green and white of the Moslem are mingled -in strange variety. There moves a lordly Turk with -loose sleeves and flowing robes, with all the solemn dignity -of his nation; the grandee, with his rich flowing -robes of silk and lace, loose breeches, white stockings and -yellow slippers; the swarthy skinned, half naked fellah, -the bare-faced, half-dressed, toil-worn country woman -with tatooed lips and eyebrows, and by her side the dignified -lady with long, close veil, red trowsers, long yellow -boots, and dress of richly-embroidered cloth. These ladies -ride astride of donkeys; the ample folds of their long -veils and loose robes almost hide the little animal from -view.</p> - -<div> - -<div class="pagenum"><a name="Page_266" id="Page_266">{266}</a></div> - -<div class="image-center"> - <img src="images/bar-5.jpg" width="350" height="58" alt="bar"/> -</div> - -<h2>CHAPTER XXIV.</h2> - -<p class="header">THE PYRAMIDS—CROSSING THE NILE—ISLAND OF RODA—ARK OF -BULRUSHES—VISIT CHEOPS—HELIOPOLIS—PALACE OF SHOOBRA—PALM -GROVES—THE CITADEL—JOSEPH'S WELL—DERVISHES—RETURN.</p> - -</div> - -<div> - <img class="drop-cap" src="images/drop-a.jpg" width="64" height="80" alt="a"/> -</div> - -<p class="drop-cap"><span class="uppercase">After</span> -hiring three donkeys to take us to the Pyramids -next morning at eight o'clock, we retired to -rest and slept much better than we did the night before; -the live stock were not quite so numerous as they were in -the last hotel. We were up bright and early, had breakfast -at seven o'clock, after which we mounted our donkeys -and were soon outside Cairo, an old town on the banks of -the Nile, founded upon the site of the old Egyptian Babylon; -it is much older than Grand Cairo. Here are the -ruins of the old Roman fortress, besieged and taken by -the Turks. The solid walls and high towers are yet -standing, on the front of which may still be seen the Roman -eagle. This fortress has now become a Christian -town and is dedicated to St. George, the patron saint of -the Copts. There are also three convents here, one is occupied -by the Roman, Armenian, and Syrian Maronites, -another by the Copts, a third by the Greeks. In this -Greek convent it is said that the Virgin and the Blessed -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_267" id="Page_267">{267}</a></span> -Child, Jesus, had their abode during their sojourn in -Egypt; here, too, are ancient structures said to have -been built by Joseph, and used for treasure houses, in -which corn was stored for the days of famine. In an upper -chamber over one of the towers is an ancient Christian -record sculptured on wood in the time of Diocletian. -It is well preserved and of curious device; below is a representation -of the Deity sitting on a globe supported by -two angels, on either side of which is a procession of six -figures representing the twelve apostles. Just on the opposite -bank lies Gizeh, from which the Pyramids are -named, with a ferry at the upper end of the town. As -we approached the ferry, we were surprised at the number -of people who thronged the landing place; numerous -boats of all sizes were waiting for freight; donkeys and -their riders, camels with their huge burdens, ragged men -and women, were mingled together—antique-looking -boats in strange confusion. After securing a ferry boat -we gave the boatman an extra sixpence each to land us for -a short time upon the beautiful little island of Roda -whose grassy banks and shady groves have long been the -resort of pleasure parties from Cairo. On this island stands -the celebrated Nilometer; this is a square chamber built -of stone, in the centre of which is a graduated stone pillar. -By a scale on this pillar the daily rise of the Nile is -ascertained; this is proclaimed every day during the inundation -in the streets of Cairo. By this island, also, -tradition fixes the place where a daughter of Levi, under -the pressure of that cruel decree, took an ark of bulrushes, -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_268" id="Page_268">{268}</a></span> -daubing it with slime and pitch and put the child therein -and laid it in the flags by the river's brink. At this island, -the faithful sister, Miriam, half concealed among the -banks, watched with anxious solicitude the fate of her -infant brother. Are these the waters that went rippling -by the ark of the infant Moses, and over which he afterwards -stretched his miraculous rod, transforming them -into a torrent of blood? Oh Scripture, how wonderful -thou art in thy story. Landing from the boat, we were -in Gizeh, an old town, the miserable wreck of what it -once was in the days of the Mamelukes. Passing along -these streets, large quantities of oranges, dates and other -fruits with bread and vegetables were exposed for sale. -We bought some of these things and had some lunch; -after a half hour's rest we started again, we had now -about four miles to make across the open plain, the huge -pyramids all the time in sight; we passed three Arab -villages on our way. The appearance of indolence and -poverty is everywhere apparent. A dozen ferocious dogs -with bristling hair and savage howl, were sure to herald -our approach. As we emerged from the last village the -gray forms of those great sepulchral monuments lay just -before us; their huge proportions seemed rapidly to increase -as we neared them. They stand upon a rocky -eminence, their base elevated one hundred and fifty feet -above the plain just at the foot of the range of hills, behind -which lies the vast ocean of sands constituting the -great Lybian desert.</p> - -<p>The ride was over, and we stood in amazement at the -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_269" id="Page_269">{269}</a></span> -base of Cheops. There are five groups of these pyramids, -numbering in all about 40. They extend up and -down the valley for ten or twelve miles: most of them -have such gigantic proportions as to justly entitle them -to a place among the wonders of the world. They all -stand upon the brow of the hills opening back into the -great Lybian desert. As we stood in deep contemplation, -gazing in wonder on this mighty structure we had -come to examine, what huge proportions; what an immense -labour; what years of human toil! But they were -built for all that, and here they stand, and have stood for -thousands of years, defying the storms of the desert, and -the lightnings of the firmament; how wonderful are the -works of men! About a dozen Arabs, with loose trowsers, -short jackets, and red fez caps, came up and spoke -to us. "Want to go up de top sah?" said the leader of -the gang, "me take you up, take you inside, all round." -"How much you ask?" said one of the Frenchmen. "He's -the sheik," pointing to the best looking, who stood erect, -holding the folds of his striped gown about him with all -the dignity of a Turk, "he's the sheik, he make de bargains." -We agreed with the sheik, for a guide to show -us up and down, inside, and all round, for a dollar. We -started with our guide,—we soon got up half way, and -there we stopped to draw breath; the steps are from two -to three feet, high, corresponding to the thickness of the -layers of stone; of these layers or tiers of stone, there -are two hundred and sixty-five, the ascent is quite -fatiguing especially if one attempts to hurry; it took us -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_270" id="Page_270">{270}</a></span> -twenty minutes to reach the top. A few moments' rest -and I began to look about me, pondering on the magnitude -of the stones, and the numerous names in many -languages carved upon them. Forty feet of its top has -been torn away, and what from the ground looked like a -point too small to stand on, is a broad platform, thirty -feet wide. I was surprised at the magnitude of the stones -even at this height, two or three feet thick, and several -feet long, what wondrous labour it must have been to -elevate such masses of stone to such a height from the -ground, and yet men now say such nations were ignorant -and uncivilized.</p> - -<p>I looked upon the broad plain that stretched away -before me; there was much charming in the air, at this -height. I took a survey of the great panorama, which lay -in its variety and beauty at our feet. There was the -green valley of the Nile, stretching away as far as the -eye could reach, welcoming the golden sunlight that -came down from the cloudless sky; with the majestic -and wonderful river, as it rolled in dignity onward to its -ocean home. Yonder in the distance were the Arabian -hills skirting the vast expanse of the Lybian desert, that -lay in bleak sterility beyond; nearer by, a spot upon the -landscape, was the great city "Grand Cairo," its great -gray, towering citadel, its mosques and minarets. Then I -turned and looked down upon the battle field where Bonaparte, -with thirty thousand men, met Murad Bey; where -the memorable battle of the Pyramids was fought, -and Abercrombie fell; where Bonaparte tried to inspire -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_271" id="Page_271">{271}</a></span> -his men with valour by pointing to these monuments, -exclaiming: "forty centuries are looking down upon you -from these mighty structures."</p> - -<p>The thunder of the battle ceased, the smoke cleared -away, thousands were left dead upon the field, and the -triumphant Bonaparte camped within the walls of Grand -Cairo. Cheops is a travellers' register, and many a visitor -has inscribed his name upon the summit. After adding -our names (an English barbarism I believe it to be; but -it began in our school-days) to the many already there, we -descended in safety. As we approached the base our guide -led the way to the opening that conducts to the interior. -This entrance is on the north side, and about fifty feet from -the base. It is a low doorway for so magnificent a structure; -but who expects anything but a dark and dreary -passage to the tomb? for such is the place to where this -opening leads, a tomb hidden in the most stupendous pile -of stones the skill and labour of man ever erected. The -entrance is a low one, and we had to stoop nearly double; -we had entered but a few feet when we found ourselves -involved in darkness. Luckily we had brought a couple -of wax candles with us from Cairo; having lighted the -candles we continued to descend the narrow, dismal passage. -Our guide conducted us to the King's chamber; -this is the great sepulchre chamber of this astonishing -structure. Its length is thirty-four feet four inches; -breadth, seventeen feet seven inches, and height nineteen -feet two inches. The only piece of furniture this chamber -contains is a chest of red granite, chiselled from a -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_272" id="Page_272">{272}</a></span> -solid block; its size is larger than the passage leading to -the chamber, so that it must have been placed there when -the room was built. Was it for this sarcophagus this -stupendous pile of stones was erected? What has become -of the lordly occupant? When, and by whom was it filled -and when did it give up its treasure? There it stands -in mute and mock defiance of every effort to ascertain -the history of its owner. Like the tomb of Jesus after -the morning of the resurrection, it was empty; the stone -had been rolled away from the door, but no angel sat -upon it to give the anxious visitor any tidings of its -occupant. We now turned our attention to a few -other interesting objects in close proximity. I had -often heard and read of the Sphinx, but now I had the -gratification of looking at this great monster. We are -first struck with its peculiar formation, and its immense -proportions. It is one hundred and twenty-eight feet long; -from the rock on which it rests its lion-like breast to the -top of the head is fifty-five feet nine inches. It is in a -crouching posture, and it stretches out its enormous paws -fifty feet in front of its capacious breast. This unwieldy -monster is a monolith, cut from the native rock of the -limestone of which it forms a part. This imposing head -was adorned with a covering much resembling a wig, the -flowing hair of which can still be seen projecting from -each side. Time, the driving sands of the desert, and the -hand of violence, have left their wasting influence on this -noble piece of Art. The horns that adorned the head -have been broken off, but there it stands without them, -still grand, noble, and majestic.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_273" id="Page_273">{273}</a></span> -The whole western bank in this vicinity of the green -valley of the Nile, for miles and miles, has been consecrated -to the repose of the dead. Here are the -sepulchres of kings, mummy pits, ibis tombs and -rock-hewn chambers, for the magnificent sarcophagi -of Apis bulls. Here countless thousands have been gathered -unto their fathers, and the sands of the desert are -every year covering them deeper and deeper. In the -centre of one of these pits was a large granite chest, cut -from the solid block, very much like the one I have described -in the king's chamber in the pyramid. This was -covered by a lid of the same material. This lid had been -carefully lifted off and set on one side. Within the chest -lay the sarcophagus. It was covered with hieroglyphical -figures and inscriptions, and looked as fresh and perfect -as when first deposited. It had not yet been opened. -Within that sculptured chest was sleeping the mummied -remains of some distinguished personage. For thousands -of years he had enjoyed here the quiet sleep of the tomb, -among his fathers and kindred; but now his long repose -must be disturbed, and in some far-off museum, inquisitive -strangers would gaze upon the blackened and withered -features, and wonder who he was! After seeing -those wondrous ancient monuments of Egyptian greatness -and idolatry, and paying the sheik and backsheesh -to our guide, we mounted our lively little donkeys and -returned to Cairo.</p> - -<p>The sun was just dipping his golden disk beneath the -western horizon, far over the distant deserts, as we entered -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_274" id="Page_274">{274}</a></span> -the gates and wound our way through the narrow -crowded streets of Grand Cairo. We crossed the suburbs, -gained the hotel, and enjoyed a good bath. A hard day's toil -climbing the pyramids gave additional relish to the smoking -viands, and refreshed, we retired to bed to dream of -stone-coffins, mummy-pits, and sphinx. We awoke next -morning from a refreshing sleep. The sun was shining -in at our windows, the songs of the birds were awaking -inspiring echoes among the tangled foliage of the Ezbekieh, -and the air was fragrant with the perfume of the -sweet flowers of the East. The day was to be devoted to -an excursion to some place of interest a few miles from -the city. Breakfast over, we stood on the steps of the -hotel and our three donkey boys whom we had engaged -were in readiness; we mounted our donkeys and started -off to visit the ruins of Heliopolis, the ancient On, or the -City of the Sun. These ruins are about six miles from Cairo, -and the ride a most delightful one, through green fields -of corn and various productions of the luxuriant soil. -Now an orange grove opens upon our sight, then an extensive -vineyard, while all the time our pathway was -shaded by avenues of tamarack, fig and acacia, that wove -their branches in tangled arches above our head. As we -approached nearer, a beautiful obelisk lifts its slender -form high into the heavens, standing in solitary grandeur -the only monument left to mark the site of the ancient, -opulent city. It is a single shaft of red granite, sixty-eight -feet two inches high, and six feet three inches broad -at the base. This is the oldest obelisk in existence, and -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_275" id="Page_275">{275}</a></span> -here it stands in its original position. Its firm base and -towering head have withstood all the assaults of time, -the convulsions of the elements and the devastations of -war. The wreck and ruin of four thousand years have -not prevailed against it. The grounds around and in the -vicinity of this obelisk have been cultivated, here the -fellaheen sow their seed and gather their harvest, yet -here stood one of the oldest and finest cities of the world, -and here are buried the remains of some of the earliest -temples. The ancient Egyptian name of the city, as interpreted, -is the "City of the Sun." The Greeks called it -Heliopolis, and the Hebrews, Bethshemesh (House of the -Sun). This place was one of the most celebrated seats of -ancient learning; it was famed for astronomy as well as -the worship of the sun. The sacred bull, Mervis, shared -also with the sun the divine honours of the city, and was -one of the most noted among the sacred animals of Egypt. -Not far from the obelisk is the beautiful fountain of the -sun; the water springing directly from the earth. The -people say this is the only living spring in the valley of -the Nile. A few yards from this spring a very old sycamore -tree spreads broad and thick its massive branches, -forming an inviting shade. When Joseph and Mary, -with the child Jesus, fled from the jealous and cruel -Herod, and took refuge in Egypt, tradition says they reposed -under the shadow of these overhanging boughs and -drank water from the renowned fountain. Here, too, was -the school of Moses. From the waters of the Nile that -flowed but a little distance from here, the daughter of -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_276" id="Page_276">{276}</a></span> -Pharoah rescued the weeping infant; and she called him -Moses, for she "drew him out of the water." In the -court of Pharoah he found a home. Here he became -learned in all the wisdom of the Egyptians. How all -those recollections forced themselves on me. We next -visited the palace of the Shoobra; it is about four miles -from the city and near the banks of the Nile. A beautiful -avenue, shaded by acacia trees, leads from the city to -it; when these trees are in bloom they fill the air with -fragrance. The grounds are beautifully laid out, and are -frequently open to the public, and large numbers of visitors -resort to them. They are beautifully diversified -with terraces, walks, towers, flowers and shaded avenues. -Many of the walks are tastefully paved with small black -and white pebbles, wrought into various designs of Mosaic -work. The great attraction of the garden is a noble -reservoir of water gushing from marble fountains in the -forms of crocodiles. From this beautiful place where the -senses are regaled by nature and art, we returned to -the city and made a special detour, in order to pass -through an Egyptian date palm grove. These groves -are planted in rows like our orchards. It is surprising -what a variety of purposes the tree serves, and how -useful it is made. These trees sometimes grow from -fifty to seventy feet high, and are of uniform size from top -to bottom. The summit is surmounted by a beautiful -crown of leaves. Every part of the tree seems to be of -some use; a charming beverage is made from the fruit, -used among the natives; wine is made from the sap. The -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_277" id="Page_277">{277}</a></span> -bark and part of the wood are manufactured into mats, -baskets, and various other useful articles, the leaves are -manufactured into a great variety of fancy articles. But -the large crop of fruit is what renders it most valuable, -and the failure of the date crop is one of the greatest calamities -that can befall the land; the tree is also ornamental -as well as useful. They are the most beautiful and -striking objects of Egyptian landscape scenery. This -grove is very extensive and spreads over several miles of -the country. But while we have visited these places of -interest the day has rapidly passed, and the evening sun -is throwing his parting rays upon the beautiful landscape, -and we must hasten to our hotel. Once more we are -threading our way through the narrow streets of the city, -and our ears are saluted with strange sounds from the -vendors of different articles, as they hawk them about. -The streets are passed, the din of cries die away in the -distance; we are back to the hotel; a long ride and the -delightful air has given us a good appetite for the -evening meal which was ready on our arrival. After we -had done justice to the delicious oriental viands, prepared -for us by our hospitable host, we retired for the -night and slept well. After breakfast next morning, we -walked out to visit some of the ancient monuments of this -wonderful city. The citadel was the first object of our -admiration. It is the fortress of the city and tower of its -defence, the depository of its munitions of war. It stands -upon a hill, its massive, frowning walls overlooking the -city on one side, and on the other the great barren desert -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_278" id="Page_278">{278}</a></span> -that stretches away towards the Red Sea. From this tower -is one of the finest views that can be obtained. First cast -your eye towards the great Lybian desert, and see the time-defying -pyramids, from the top of which we have before -contemplated this land of the Pharaohs. On the other -side, the beautiful Nile, slowly weaving his serpentine -folds through groves of palm, and along green and flowery -banks, and a city of three hundred thousand inhabitants -at our feet, with the massive circuitous walls that enclose -it; the great mosques and multitude of minarets that crown -them all, forming one of the most remarkable and striking -peculiarities of a Mohammedan country. Within this fortress -stands a splendid palace of the Pasha, and by its side -the harem, with beautiful fountains and pleasure grounds.</p> - -<p>But what astonished us most, is the wonderful contrivance -to supply the citadel with water; it is certainly worthy of -the presiding genius of the land. This well is cut into the -solid rock to the enormous depth of two hundred and sixty -feet, and at the mouth fifty feet wide. Around the wall is a -winding stairway cut close into the rock, with a partition -wall of the rock left, about three feet thick, between it -and the well, with occasional holes for windows to look -through into the main shaft. Any one who has seen -Dover shaft leading from Snargate street to the heights, -will at once understand how this well is constructed; the -open passage through the centre of that structure corresponding -to the well; the circular stairway winding round -it, to the descent here, cut in the rock, by which the bottom -is reached. One of the most striking things connected -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_279" id="Page_279">{279}</a></span> -with the well, is the manner of elevating the water. -A large ox is taken down this winding stairway near to -the bottom of the well where a cog-wheel machine for -raising water is situated. The food is taken down to him, -and he is kept here as long as he is able to work.</p> - -<p>This well was found covered up under a wall, by Sultan -Yoosef (Joseph) while clearing away the debris when building -the fortress in A.D. 1711, hence "Joseph's well." Turning -from the well, we next pay a visit to the mosque of -Mohammed Ali. It is a gorgeous structure, the finest -and most renowned in Modern Egypt, standing upon the -hill of the citadel and inclosed by its ramparts; it lifts -its proud form high above its companions. The whole -interior, pillars, walls, and arches is of beautiful alabaster -brought from the quarries of upper Egypt.</p> - -<p>The mosque is also a burying place. It is the tomb of -Mohammed Ali. He built it during his life, chiefly with -the design of making it a mausoleum for his ashes when -his eventful career was at an end. A conspicuous part -of the building has been set apart for his tomb; a railing -surrounds it, gorgeous decorations have been lavished -upon it, and near it lights are kept continually burning. -Here, in pompous state he reposes, and dreams no more -of rivals, of conquests, or of power. Such is life! This -being our last day in Grand Cairo, after tea we walked -round the city to see all we could of this ancient place, -and learn the habits of the people.</p> - -<p>Here may be seen exhibitions and illustrations of all -the passions and affections of the human heart. As we -were returning to our hotel, we saw under the shade of a -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_280" id="Page_280">{280}</a></span> -tree a company of Dervishes. These are a singular religious -sect; they are anxious to obtain a reputation for -superior sanctity, and many of them make pretensions to -the performance of miracles. They are frightfully superstitious. -Their devotional exercises are often of the wildest -and most extravagant kind. Taking hold of hands -in a large circle round a tree, they commence swinging -their bodies backward and forward, jerking the head and -shaking the hands, keeping time to a sort of murmuring -exclamation, sometimes pronouncing the name of "Allah." -As the excitement increases, they toss their hair, foam at -the mouth, scream and seem to give themselves up to the -wildest excesses of religious enthusiasm. They let go -hands and then commence spinning round like a top, -stretching out their arms. By the velocity of their motion, -spreading out their loose dress like a large umbrella, -for twenty minutes or more, without pause or rest, and -continually increasing velocity. These religious devotees -will twirl with a rapidity truly astonishing, making fifty -revolutions a minute. We are indeed sorry to see their -example followed in England by the Jumpers, &c. But -we have seen enough of this foolish, useless, so-called religious -enthusiasm. It would be well if such energy and -devotion could be turned into a more useful channel. This, -however, can only be done by God and His Church. Here -is our hotel, and our day's excursion is ended.</p> - -<p>We were up early next morning and had breakfast at -seven o'clock, settled our bill with the landlord, and rode -to the railway station in an omnibus, and took our departure -by train at ten o'clock for Alexandria.</p> - -<div> - -<div class="pagenum"><a name="Page_281" id="Page_281">{281}</a></div> - -<div class="image-center"> - <img src="images/bar-3.jpg" width="350" height="60" alt="bar"/> -</div> - -<h2>CHAPTER XXV.</h2> - -<p class="header">THE HOSPITAL—MOHAMMEDAN SABBATH—DEPARTURE—THE VOYAGE—MALTA—DEPARTURE—VOYAGE -FOR ENGLAND—PORTSMOUTH—VOYAGE -TO DUBLIN—ARRIVAL AT LIMERICK—THE 6TH ROYAL -REGIMENT—PROMOTED—ALDERSHOT—ROUTE FOR GIBRALTAR—THE -VOYAGE.</p> - -</div> - -<div> - <img class="drop-cap" src="images/drop-o.jpg" width="66" height="80" alt="o"/> -</div> - -<p class="drop-cap"><span class="uppercase">On</span> -my arrival at Alexandria, I went to the Hospital, -where I was informed that I would have to wait -a few days longer. The men were fast improving, but -were not sufficiently recovered to warrant the doctor's -confidence of their strength, or to survive the trials of a -long voyage.</p> - -<p>When I returned to the hotel, the two Frenchmen were -waiting my return for dinner. Next morning they were -to leave Alexandria by steamer for Jaffa, <i>en route</i> for -the Holy Land. After breakfast I accompanied them to -the steamer, and there we parted, perhaps for ever. They -were jovial, decent fellows, and we enjoyed each other's -company very much during our short acquaintance. -Their names were respectively Napoleon Pomponnet and -Joseph Belair.</p> - -<p>It being Friday, the Mohammedan Sabbath, I visited -one of their mosques, which is always open and made -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_282" id="Page_282">{282}</a></span> -a place of public prayer. Here the devout come at all -times of the day to perform their devotions; but the child -of the Prophet does not abstain from his ordinary work -on the Sabbath, except at the hour of prayer, about midday, -and then the mosques are crowded. The mosque is -built round a central square; around this square a portico -is built, and in the centre of it is a fountain of water for -ablution. A good supply of water seems to be considered -indispensable among Mohammedans to purify for worship. -The side of the building facing Mecca is the most important -one. The portico on this side is more spacious, and -has one or two extra rows of columns. This side of the -mosque is the place of prayer. A niche in the wall marks -the direction of Mecca, and in that direction the faces of -the worshippers are always turned—Christians always -turn to the east. To the right of this niche stands the -pulpit, and on the opposite side is a raised platform, supported -by small columns, on which is a desk, upon which -is kept a volume of the Koran, and from it a chapter is -read to the congregation. The floors have no seats, and -are covered with matting to accommodate the worshippers; -the rich and the poor pray side by side. Females -scarcely ever go to pray in the mosque; if they go at all -they go at different hours to the men, and by themselves—but -they are taught that it is better to pray in private. -Indeed, it is said, women seldom, if ever, pray at all! -One little ceremony, however, must not be forgotten. Do -not attempt to enter a mosque with your boots on. -Recollect that, O Englishmen! These devout attendants -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_283" id="Page_283">{283}</a></span> -would lift up their hands in holy horror, and send -you back as a dog. Stockings are not generally worn, -except by the best classes, who wear cotton socks in very -cold weather; the only covering for their feet ever -worn is a low kind of slipper, made of yellow morocco -leather, sharply pointed and turned up at the toes. As -these are always slipped off when one enters a mosque they -are turned down at the heel. The Mohammedan Sabbath -comes on Friday, the Jews' on Saturday, and the Christians' -on Sunday—the Lord's Day. Here I am, where the Sundays -come in succession, so that extremes meet, for we have no -Sunday at all, although five periods are set apart in each -day as special seasons of prayer. These, every good -Mohammedan is expected to observe, but they are neglected, -and many persons, it is said, do not pray at all. -But this neglect does not arise from the want of an admonition. -From the minarets of their mosques the call is -regularly made. One of these calls is just after midnight, -another about the break of day. At the appointed hour, -the muezzin ascends to the gallery of the minaret, pitches -his voice to a monotonous chant, and commences, "God -is great! God is great! Prayer is better than sleep! I -testify that there is no deity but God! I testify that -Mohammed is God's prophet! Come to prayer, come -to prayer!" Sometimes quite long exhortations are -given. The Mohammedan Sabbath is but little regarded. -The bazaars are all open, and labour of every -description is carried on. The mosques are opened an -hour at noon, and yet but few take any notice of the call -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_284" id="Page_284">{284}</a></span> -to prayer. Here are several Christian places of worship—both -Roman Catholic and Protestant—besides several -Greek chapels.</p> - -<p>Monday morning at ten o'clock, I went to the hospital, -when the doctor informed me that the men would -proceed by the steamer which arrived from the east yesterday -afternoon on her way to Malta. I then returned -to the hotel, settled with the landlord, came and received -the invalids from the hospital, and marched them on -board one of the Peninsular & Oriental Company's -steamers. At two p.m. we moved out from the harbour, -the sky was of a deep blue, not a cloud or film -of vapour as big as a man's hand to cast a flitting -shadow on the calm, blue waters as they glistened in -the summer's sun. I stood upon the promenade deck, -my eyes intently fixed upon the receding shore, and -as it faded from my view I bade farewell to Egypt, -"Adieu, thou strange and wondrous land! land of the -old wonders, the phœnix, the pyramids and sphinx, I -shall never see thee more! Egypt what a treasure -book of history and of study thou hast been! Once -thou wert the pride and glory of the earth, but now how -changed and fallen! Thy temples and gods have crumbled -into dust! Plundered even of the remnants of thy former -greatness! The occupants of thy tombs have been borne -away, thy obelisks removed, and what remained of thy -statues, altars and images, stolen to adorn the parks and -enrich the museums of modern cities. But, though thou -sittest in silence, solitude and degradation, the traveller -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_285" id="Page_285">{285}</a></span> -will still come and muse among thy ruins, and thou wilt -ever continue to be teacher among the nations!" Such -were the reflections that passed through my mind as the -dark line of shore grew fainter and fainter, blending with -the rolling billows of the deep blue sea, till all was out of -view. I looked about me—there was the ship on which I -stood, the deep blue vault of the heavens over my head, -the vast expanse of waters that encircled me, and all the -rest had disappeared. We have about four days' sail from -Alexandria to Malta. The attention, civility and politeness -with which the passengers were treated during -this voyage by the captain and crew deserve our -warmest gratitude. After a delightful voyage of nearly -four days, we entered the harbour of Valetta about -eight o'clock on the morning of the 25th June, 1856. -After landing, I reported myself at the brigade office, -and handed over the invalids at the general hospital, -marched out to St. Frances' camp and joined my battalion -there. While stationed in Malta we were exercised -by the general commanding the garrison, with a -battalion of the German and Italian legion, twice a week -on Flori-Anne Square. Except those general reviews, we -did very little drill, duty was very easy, and the rations, -to us, after the hard-tack we were used to in the Crimea, -seemed excellent. We got a generous supply of smoking -warm goat's milk in our coffee every morning and also -for our tea in the evening. The milkman brought his -flock of goats round to our tents crying out, "milk! -Johnny me change milk with mungey for the goat." We -traded pieces of bread for goat's milk.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_286" id="Page_286">{286}</a></span> -The houses are built of grey stone; the streets are steep -and narrow; many of them have stone stairways cut in the -solid rock, and some of them are arched over head. One of -the most venerable and interesting structures in this ancient -city is the old church of St. John, which was built in -honour of the patron saint of the knights; it is 240 feet -long by 60 feet wide. The most curious part of this -church is the floor; beneath it many of the old knights -are entombed, and above them the armorial bearings of -all the Grand Masters of the order are inlaid in Mosaic -of various and beautifully coloured marbles. The hand -of time has faded the fine fresco paintings of the dome -of this venerable structure, but the elaborate Mosaic work -of the floor is still the wonder and admiration of every -visitor. The climate is warm and exhilarating, the air -salubrious and invigorating, and many invalids come here -from colder latitudes to restore their health during the -winter months. But our time at this delightful station -is short; we embark for England on the 18th July.</p> - -<p>At last the long wished for day (by some) has arrived, -and we embarked on board H.M.S. "Simoom," in Valetta -harbour at ten o'clock a.m. the 18th July, 1856. All -being ready at two p.m. we steamed slowly out of the -harbour amid cheer after cheer from the citizens and -soldiers who crowded the batteries along the harbour to -give us a last cheer and wave of their handkerchiefs; we -all stood on the deck returning the cheers and waving -our handkerchiefs also until the island, like a little cloud, -vanished from view in the distance.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_287" id="Page_287">{287}</a></span> -The sky was blue, the air clear and invigorating, and -scarce a ripple on the face of the deep. As our noble ship -glided smoothly through the clear blue waters of the -Mediterranean, our hearts were glad and our joy was -great to think that we were returning to our homes, our -families and our friends, who were anxiously waiting -our return. The afternoon was occupied in swinging -hammocks and drawing blankets and provisions from the -ship's steward; the men were in the best of spirits, and -amused themselves during the voyage in singing, dancing, -and all sorts of amusing games. We had excellent rations -during the voyage, plum-pudding and pea soup on alternate -days. On the morning of the fourth day we -sighted the old rock of Gibraltar, rearing its lofty crest -to the sky. As we rounded Europa point our transport -hoisted her number (every ship that passes the rock must -show her colours) which was answered from the signal -station, which stands on the loftiest point of the rock. -At twelve o'clock we cast anchor in the quarantine harbour -where we had a delay of two hours, during which -time we were surrounded with bumboats, selling all sorts -of delicious fruits, oranges, lemons, cigars, tobacco and -pipes to the men. At two p.m. we weighed anchor and -steamed down through the straits, soon leaving the rock -of Gibraltar far behind. As our ship glided swiftly before -a beautiful breeze with studding-sails set, sweeping onward -like some huge bird of prey through "The Gut," -we could not help noticing the contrast of scenery between -the Spanish and African sides of the straits; the -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_288" id="Page_288">{288}</a></span> -former beautifully clothed in a mantle of green, with -herds of sheep pasturing along its undulating banks down -to the water's edge; while the latter with its barren-looking -and sun scorched hills, and tremendous precipices, -rising several thousand feet above the sea, looked -more wild and picturesque. The evening was so delightful, -we all sat on deck till a late hour enjoying the sublimity -and grandeur of the scene; the moon shone so clear -and brilliantly from her celestial throne, and the stars twinkling -bright and shining in the clear blue firmament, throwing -a pale light through the face of the deep, watching at the -same time our noble ship, as she glided swiftly through -the smooth clear waters, dashing the sparkling spray and -foam from her bows. On the morning of the fifth day -from Gibraltar, we sailed round the green shores of the -Isle of Wight, on the one side, while the low sandy coast -of Hampshire, indented by the roadstead of Portsmouth, -that showed a perfect forest of masts towering above its -sea defences, made the beautiful island look most lovely, -recollecting it was the place where Her Majesty lived and -which she loved. We passed through the stately ships of -war, as they rode majestically at anchor; an interchange -of signals took place between the flag ship and ours, directing -our captain where to anchor we supposed, and soon -we cast anchor off Portsmouth harbour, and shortly -after the troops disembarked and marched to Anglesea -Barracks, where we were quartered <i>pro tem.</i> Soon after -our arrival, my wife and two children joined me; we rested -here a week when we embarked on board a mail -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_289" id="Page_289">{289}</a></span> -steamer for Dublin, landing at the north wall on the 6th -August, after a rather rough passage; all the women and -children were sea sick; marched to Kingsbridge station -where we took the train for Limerick; arriving there at -four p.m. we joined the depôt in the New Barracks. I -was here about three months when my oldest child, a boy -six years old, took sick with the scarlet fever, and on the -23rd November, 1856, he died. I was very happy previous -to this, but the death of this only boy made me -very sorrowful.</p> - -<p>On the first of March, 1856, I was appointed assistant -school teacher at the garrison school, where I continued -until the 22nd November, 1856, when I volunteered with -several other non-commissioned officers to the 2nd Battalion -6th Royal Regiment, which was then being raised -at Preston by Lieutenant-Colonel Fraser. Our depôt being -over the strength of non-commissioned officers, we were allowed -to volunteer to this new battalion. At ten o'clock -a.m. on the 22nd November, after signing our accounts, and -receiving our pay up to that time, we took the train for -Dublin, thence by steamer to Liverpool, where we landed -at 7 o'clock on the morning of the 23rd, had breakfast at -a hotel, and proceeded by the ten o'clock train to Preston; -arriving there at two p.m. marched to barracks, and reported -ourselves at the orderly room of the 2nd Battalion -6th Royal Regiment. Next morning at ten o'clock, Lieutenant-Colonel -Fraser, with Adjutant Kitchener, inspected -us at the orderly room, and posted us to our respective -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_290" id="Page_290">{290}</a></span> -companies. That evening my name appeared in regimental -orders thus:</p> - -<div class="letter"> - -<div class="centerltr">"REGIMENTAL ORDERS BY LT.-COL. FRASER,<br /> COMMANDING 2ND -BATTALION, 6th ROYAL REGIMENT.</div> -<div class="right1"><span class="smcap">Preston Barracks</span>, 24th Nov., 1857.</div> - -<p>1085, Corporal Thomas Faughnan to be Colour-Sergeant from -the 22nd instant, and posted to No. 5 Company.</p> - -<div class="centerltr">By order,</div> -<div class="right2">(Signed) <span class="smcap">H. Kitchener</span>,</div> -<div class="right1">Lt. & Adjutant 2nd B., 6th R. Reg't."</div> - -</div> - -<p>Next day Lieutenant Kelson, who commanded No. 5 company, -appointed me his pay-sergeant. The company were -150 strong, and not one of them had yet received their -uniform and kits. Between the drills and parades which -were long and frequent, I drew the recruits' uniforms, -knapsacks, and kits from the quartermaster's store, -marked them myself, and had their clothing altered and -properly fitted at the master-tailor's shop. I must say -the Crimea was nothing to what I went through in Preston. -After the battalion had got organized, clothed and -drilled, we got the route for Aldershot.</p> - -<p>On the 26th February, 1858, at 10 o'clock in the morning -we proceeded by rail to Aldershot, arriving at Farnborough -Station at 4 o'clock in the afternoon, and marched -to South Camp, where we were quartered in the huts of L -lines. During our term at Aldershot, the battalion was -put through a strict course of drill. On the 15th of -April, H. M. the Queen, and H. R. H. Prince Albert, received -the troops in camp, when we marched in grand -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_291" id="Page_291">{291}</a></span> -divisions. They were much pleased at the manner in which -the movements were performed by the young battalion, -and H. R. H. Prince Albert expressed himself in a highly -complimentary manner to the general, who conveyed it -to the troops in orders. After the review was over, Her -Majesty and Prince Albert drove round the camp in an -open carriage as the men were at dinner, when the band -of each regiment played "God Save the Queen" as they -passed each respective regiment. That was the last time -I ever saw H. R. H. Prince Albert, for he died, deeply lamented -by the British Army, on the 14th December, 1861. -On the second of May we received a letter of readiness -for Gibraltar. On the 12th, the colonel received the -route to proceed by rail on the 18th inst., to Portsmouth, -there to embark on board of H. M. Ship "City of Manchester" -for Gibraltar. On the morning of the 18th May, -1858, the second Battalion 6th Royal Regiment marched -from South Camp to Farnborough Station, where we took -the train for Portsmouth. The signal being given, the train -moved out of the station with its lively freight of redcoats, -rattling steadily on over the beautiful green landscapes. -Trees seem to go rushing past; still on and on, -panting in its rapid course, flies the long train, clattering -past walls and bridges with a crash, whistling shrill to warn -the unwary of its approach, and howling like a demon -pursued, as with hiss and roar it plunges into the tunnel. -To describe all the incidents which came under my notice -at the station might be thought tedious. Suffice it to -say that we arrived at Portsmouth at 2 p.m. and embarked -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_292" id="Page_292">{292}</a></span> -on board H. M, Ship "City of Manchester," in the -main dockyard. At 4 p.m. all being reported present -and correct, the captain gave the signal and we moved -out from the wharf amid loud cheers from the spectators, -which were heartily returned by the red coats on board, -and we passed down the bright, sparkling Solent, glistening -in the sunshine of a beautiful May day.</p> - -<p>The spectacle was not lost on many of us, as our ship -passed through the crowds of magnificent men-of-war -and transports, with their sails glittering like silver in the -summer sun. After we passed through the Needles, late -in the afternoon, the wind being favourable, we spread our -wide canvas to the evening breeze, and now the sun went -down leaving a pale glare over the dark horizon; the wind -began to freshen and the sea to rise. The beacon on the -Eddystone lighthouse faintly faded like a little spark and -disappeared; on went the good ship bounding beneath a -starry firmament, the dim trackless ocean stretching before -us like the undiscovered realms of the future, and I -once more bade farewell to England. At nine o'clock -the last post sounded, when those who were not already -in their hammocks now turned in. I stopped on deck -watching the sailors reefing sails and handling the ship, -and when tired of listening to the piping of the wind -through the rigging, and the shrill sound of the boatswain's -whistles, I followed the example of my comrades -and turned into my hammock. I was awakened in the -middle of the night by a tremendous noise on deck. Footsteps -rattled, shuffled, and stamped above my head, and -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_293" id="Page_293">{293}</a></span> -every now and then, amidst hoarse shouting, whistling -and yells of "Aye, aye, sir," there was a sound of banging -down upon the deck of heavy coils of rope. The ship was -tilted over very much on one side, and at times shivering -from bow to stern as a heavy sea struck her on the beam. -Several of the recruits on hearing this uproar, jumped -from their hammocks with fright; some thought the mast -had gone overboard, or that the ship was on fire, or had -sprung a leak and was fast going to the bottom; but I -divined the cause at once, and told them that the wind -had changed and the sailors were reefing topsails, when -they all turned into their hammocks again.</p> - -<p>The motion of the ship, now heading against a heavy -sea, became very unpleasant; she heaved, jolted, and -pitched so that I found it in vain to sink again to sleep, -but after a couple of hours I again sunk into the arms of -Morpheus, where from a heavy and dreamless slumber I -was once more aroused between five and six o'clock in -the morning by the orderly-sergeant rousing the men to -stow away hammocks and wash decks, and a hard job he -had of it, for most of them were very sick. Just hear -the orders and the replies: "Peter Riley, come get out -of that hammock," said the sergeant. "Tommy Devanny," -said a voice, "d'ye hear the sergeant? Are you going to -lay there all day like a lazy land lubber?" "Och, sergeant, -I'm that sick, I'm as wake as' wather, an' not able -to stand on my feet, I'm so sick!" "You get a piece of -fat pork, and bob it up and down your throat, then swallow -it and see if that doesn't get you all right," "Och, sergeant, -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_294" id="Page_294">{294}</a></span> -for the love of God, lave me alone, I'm dyen, send for the -docther, and the Lard have marcy on your muther's sowl." -The latter supplication was addressed to Sergeant Bramall, -who, unable any longer to restrain his indignation, -had seized the blankets, and was tugging and tearing -them out of Private Tommy Devanny's hammock. A thud -on the deck, and a loud roar of laughter, announced that -the sergeant had succeeded in dragging the offender from -his hammock.</p> - -<p>The men were soon up and busily engaged, the pump -and hose were set going, and the inundation and swabbing -went on briskly; all hands were at work with -swabs, scrubbers and scrapers. The ship was still heaving, -although the warm sun had burst through the heavy -clouds. When the breakfast bugle sounded at eight -o'clock many of the recruits were absent through sea -sickness. Time will not permit me further to detail the -distresses of landsmen who encountered at starting a gale -of wind which lasted nearly two days; I only wish, good -reader, you may never experience it. I shall simply -record the satisfaction experienced by many of the redcoats -on board the "City of Manchester," when the wind -changed and sent us flying at the rate of ten to twelve -knots an hour, as we shaped our course across a well-known -bay of tempestuous character, which, however, -on the present occasion was found quiet enough. It was, -however, a joyful moment when the rocky and precipitous -coast of Cape St. Vincent, loomed up distinctly through -the hot mist of the early morning; and before many hours -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_295" id="Page_295">{295}</a></span> -had elapsed our transport was bounding before the breeze -through the straits of Gibraltar. The men were now perfectly -recovered from sea-sickness, and they assembled on -deck looking out for the long wished-for haven, and gazed -on the much-talked of "old rock of Gibraltar," which -was to be our present home. At three o'clock p.m., 25th -May, 1858, we moved into our moorings at the new mole, -and in half-an-hour disembarked and marched to the -Town Range Barracks, and part to the Wellington Front -and King's Bastion.</p> - -<div class="image-center"> - <img src="images/dec-3.jpg" width="100" height="69" alt="dec"/> -</div> - -<div> - -<div class="pagenum"><a name="Page_296" id="Page_296">{296}</a></div> - -<div class="image-center"> - <img src="images/bar-4.jpg" width="350" height="60" alt="bar"/> -</div> - -<h2>CHAPTER XXVI.</h2> - -<p class="header">ARRIVAL—SPANISH BULL-FIGHTS—LIEUT. JACKSON—CHANGE QUARTERS—THE -ROCK—MONKEYS—CAVES—GARDENS—WAR IN ALGIERS—CORFU—VOYAGE—ARRIVAL—SANTA -MARIA—DESERTION—THE -MARCH—GREEKS.</p> - -</div> - -<div> - <img class="drop-cap" src="images/drop-t.jpg" width="51" height="80" alt="t"/> -</div> - -<p class="drop-cap"><span class="uppercase">The</span> -2nd Battalion 6th Royal Regiment was stationed -in Gibraltar four years, during which time -we were changed from one barracks to the other, about -every twelve months. In the summer of 1859, H.R.H. -the Prince of Wales visited Gibraltar, when the troops -gave him a right royal reception. St. Michael's Cave, -all the caverns and subterranean passages, as well as the -city, were illuminated on the occasion, with a grand military -ball at the convent, and a public one at the theatre. -The inhabitants turned out <i>en masse</i>, and gave him a -hearty welcome as he drove through the streets in an -open carriage, with military bands playing and guards of -honour as he entered and got out of his carriage, at the -entrance to the convent. On the 31st July, Captain J. -E. Tewart joined the regiment, and took charge of No. 5 -company at the King's Bastion. On the 15th of August, -myself and several other sergeants of the garrison, with -their wives, rode into Spain, some on horseback; more on -side-cars, to witness a bull-fight at San Roque. On arrival -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_297" id="Page_297">{297}</a></span> -we put up our horses at an hotel, and paid a dollar -each to go in.</p> - -<p>Where the bull-fight was held is a large structure capable -of containing ten thousand people. It is built of -stone, with seats like a circus, and enclosed with a high -wall of ancient architectural design, gaily ornamented, -with flags waving all round on its summit.</p> - -<p>One half of this enclosure is allotted and tastefully -decorated, with an elaborately fitted box and a canopy -surmounted with the Royal Arms of Spain, for the Royal -family, and a splendid military band on a platform over -the entrance. When drawing near the opening scene, the -seats were all filled with a gaily dressed audience, the -Spanish ladies in their gorgeous fineries, with their fans -waving continually. In the ring were six mounted cavaliers, -armed with lances and coats of mail, and six more -on foot, with silk mantles lined with crimson across their -arms, and swords drawn.</p> - -<p>Then the gate flies open, and the bull rushes into the -ring; the people cheer and shout; the bull roars and -paws the ground, runs at a horseman, when the rider -sticks him with his lance. Madly he rushes at a red -cloak held out by a footman, and falls headlong on his -face. In this way they tease him until he foams with rage. -The footmen throw gaily dressed loaded darts, and stick -them in his neck, when the dart explodes with a loud report. -This maddens him; he shakes his head, and rushes -at a horse, tearing out his entrails and raising him on his -horns; the footmen fool him with the red cloaks and -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_298" id="Page_298">{298}</a></span> -loaded darts. When the bull corners a man, he slips into -a side place made for that purpose. After he is well -exhausted, and having over two dozen darts dangling -from his neck, the professor undertakes to kill him. -He plays with him a long time, fooling him with the red -cloak and sword; at last, when he gets a good chance, he -sinks the sword to the hilt just in the back of the head. -When the bull gives the last roar and drops, throwing his -life blood out of his mouth, the professor salutes the -audience, who cheer him vociferously.</p> - -<p>Three gay teams of smart ponies, with rich trappings, -enter the ring and draw off the dead bull and horses; -when the band plays while the ring is being cleared for -another fight. As we returned from the bull fight, we -passed some Spaniards who were driving mules; the -road being narrow, one of the sergeants shoved a mule -out of the road, when the Spaniard threw a stone, striking -one of the ladies who were on the side car; then -colour-sergeant Marshall jumped down to chastise the -Spaniard; they closed on each other, the sergeant throwing -him down in the scuffle; the Spaniard drew his stiletto -and stabbed the sergeant, who cried out "I am stabbed," -when the Spaniard ran away. Some British sailors who -were passing at the time gave chase and caught him; one -of the sailors took out his jack-knife and cut the sign -of the cross deep on the Spaniard's back, saying, "if I -have to swear against you, I will have a mark so as I -may know you again;" giving the Spaniards a good -thrashing, they left them. The wound which the sergeant -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_299" id="Page_299">{299}</a></span> -received did not seem much at first, but he was taken to -the hospital where he lay for eight days, and died from -the wound, deeply regretted by the battalion. The -Spaniard was caught, tried, convicted, and transported -for two years, on the sailor's evidence, who marked him -on the back with the jack-knife.</p> - -<p>After putting in four months in camp at the Old North -Front, where we went through a course of rifle instruction -and ball practice under our instructors, Captain Kerr, -Lieutenant Nugent and Sergeant Parkinson, we were -changed to the South Barracks. Here the colonel and -officers encouraged all sorts of amusements amongst the -men. Each captain purchased a boat for his company, -and the sergeants got out a splendid outrigger 40 feet -long, from Clasper, the famous boat-builder on the Tyne. -In addition to the boating, Lieutenant Jackson, of the -Royal Artillery, organized garrison reading rooms, where -all the latest periodicals and newspapers, with excellent -libraries, were at the service of the troops, and even -schools where the men could learn English, French and -Spanish, and all sorts of amusing games, such as billiards, -bagatelle, backgammon, dominoes and chess. This is -what ought to be in every barracks, it keeps the men -from the low dram shops and saloons and makes men -and soldiers of us, giving us <i>esprit de corps</i>! Lieutenant -Jackson was a barrack-room word with the garrison. He -made himself very popular amongst the troops by the -unremitting exertions he used in order to improve the -condition, habits, education, comfort, and amusement of -the non-commissioned officers and privates of the garrison.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_300" id="Page_300">{300}</a></span> -At those barracks the Roman Catholics and Protestants -occupied the same church, the former at ten o'clock and -the latter at eleven. The English Church chaplain, Rev. -Mr. Gardiner, was a most elegant preacher, and a very -popular clergyman, so much so, that the sergeants of the -6th Regiment subscribed and sent to London for a beautiful -bible, which we presented to him, with an address, -couched in the warmest expressions of admiration and -gratification for his ability as an eloquent preacher, as well -as his sincerity, enthusiasm, passionate ardour, and unremitting -attention to the spiritual and temporal welfare of -the 2nd Battalion 6th Royal Regiment, who will long -remember Mr. Gardiner as being a father to both Roman -Catholics and Protestants of the battalion while stationed -at Gibraltar. The Lord bless him and keep him, prays -the author.</p> - -<p>The rock is about three miles long, by three quarters of -a mile broad. Its inhabitants are called "Rock Scorpions". -They are composed of English, Italians, Spaniards, Moors, -and Jews. The population, exclusive of the garrison, is -about 16,500. The strip of peninsula connecting Gibraltar -with Spain is called the "Neutral Ground."</p> - -<p>The approaches both from the Neutral Ground and -from the sea are guarded by a great number of very -powerful batteries, so that the rock may be regarded as -impregnable. Monkeys are very numerous and can be -seen from the Alameda, looking down from the rock on -the soldiers at drill, and running up and down the old -Moorish Wall leading to the signal station; some of them -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_301" id="Page_301">{301}</a></span> -are very large. In visiting the company's barrack room, -when orderly sergeant, one day, the men being all out at -drill, I found a large baboon stealing the men's bread off -the shelf in the barrack room. As soon as he saw me he -sprung out of the window, on to a wall which divided the -steep rock from the barracks, then stood and looked at -me. They watch the barrack rooms from this wall and -when they see the men going out to drill they enter the -rooms and steal the bread. The rock at its highest point -attains an elevation of 1,440 feet above the sea. It is -perforated by numerous caverns, the largest of which is -called Saint Michael's Cave, which has an entrance about -1,000 feet above the sea. Thence there is a descent through -a succession of caves, some ample chambers, others mere -passages through which it is barely possible to creep, to -a depth of 500 feet below the entrance; at this point the -foul air has barred further ingress, but the roaring of the -sea has been distinctly heard, which leads to the inference -that these gloomy hollows have communication with the -waves beneath. Large stalactites are found in most of -the caverns, and congealed stone, of which many useful -and ornamental articles are made by the soldiers and -others, such as shirt-buttons, brooches, studs and rings, -with several other useful articles. There are no springs -of fresh water on the rock, and the inhabitants are therefore -compelled to depend on the heavy rainfall, and every -precaution is adopted to preserve as much of the water -as possible; large tanks are placed so as to catch the rain -water off the roofs of the houses, and conduits are made -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_302" id="Page_302">{302}</a></span> -to guide the water from the rock surface into great public -reservoirs. Among the latter, the Navy Tank, for the -supply of ships coming into the port, is conspicuous, its -capacity being 11,000 tons of water.</p> - -<p>At present England guards this formidable rock with -jealous care; every available point of defence bristles with -guns: the steep rock is honeycombed with galleries and -bombproof barracks; deep ditches with drawbridges, steep -escarps, bar all approach, and batteries are hewn in the solid -rock, frowning alike on friend or foe. The drawbridges -are closed when the evening gun fires at sun-down and -are opened at sunrise by a sergeant detailed for that duty, -who is called the "key sergeant," his post when not opening -or closing the gate, is at the Convent guard, where -he keeps the keys of the fortress. There are several -pleasant walks about the rock, but perhaps the best is in -the Alameda, and the gardens situated at the south end. -They are prettily laid out; a bronze bust on a column has -been erected in these gardens to the memory of <i>General -Elliot, its heroic defender</i>. Plants and different sorts of -tropical flowers, dwarf-palm, Spanish-broom, the yellow -blossoms of which are mixed with the varied colours of -fuchsia,—orange and oleanders interspersed along the -beautiful walks and round the shaded rustic seats, with -the profusion and aroma of the flowers rendered it a -most charming promenade, and during the fine evenings -military band performances take place, when it is usually -thronged with visitors.</p> - -<p>The adjacent Spanish towns of Campamiento, San -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_303" id="Page_303">{303}</a></span> -Roque and Algeciras are much resorted to by excursionists -from the rock, and during the summer months are -selected by numerous families for a prolonged stay. However -little pleasure or interest a ride over this arid and -sandy plain affords, when once arrived at Campo, the rider -enjoys a most charming prospect, as there is probably no -other point from which the isolated rock appears so grand -or picturesque than from this neat little village.</p> - -<p>During the summer of 1860, a war raged between the -Queen of Spain and the Dey of Algiers, when about five -hundred women and children of the Moorish Jews from -Algiers fled to Gibraltar for protection; they were sent to -the North front where they were supplied by our authorities -with tents and rations during the war, which lasted -for six months; their husbands were kept behind to fight, -and only a few old men accompanied the women to Gibraltar. -After putting in a little over four years on the -rock of Gibraltar, we embarked on the afternoon of the -25th June, 1862, on board H.M.S. "Himalaya," which -lay at the New Mole, for the island of Corfu. As we lay -at the wharf expecting to go to sea early in the morning, -Rev. Mr. Gardiner came on board about eight o'clock, to bid -the battalion a last farewell; the moon was clear and -shone down with a silver brightness on the mass of redcoats -who assembled on deck to hear Mr. Gardiner address -the battalion. He stood on the quarter deck and delivered -a most eloquent and sympathetic address, which -touched the men's hearts, and drew tears from most of -those strong soldiers who were present.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_304" id="Page_304">{304}</a></span> -At five o'clock next morning we steamed out from the -New Mole and proceeded round Europa point, passing the -pillars of Hercules, and as we steamed out we gradually -lost sight of the coast, which was beautifully illuminated -by the rising sun, affording us a last glimpse of the old -rock of Gibraltar. This magnificent transport, one of the -best in Her Majesty's service, is kept up to man-of-war fashion -in discipline and cleanliness. After a splendid voyage -of five days we reached Corfu at two o'clock in the afternoon -of the 1st July, 1862. No. 5 company, consisting -of Captain Tewart, Lieutenant Hall, and Ensign Græme, -myself and four sergeants, and one hundred and sixty rank -and file, were ordered to proceed on detachment to Santa -Maura, and No. 3 company to Ithica. During the afternoon -the head quarters and the companies for Corfu disembarked, -the companies for detachment stopped on board, and at -four o'clock next morning the steamer proceeded with -these detachments to their respective stations, arriving at -Santa Maura about three o'clock in the afternoon of the -following day, when we disembarked, the "Himalaya" proceeding -on to Ithica with No. 3. Company. The garrison -of Santa Maura, consisted of Captain Tewart (commandant), -one garrison sergeant-major, four sergeants, and -two hundred rank and file, including the artillery; that -day I was appointed garrison sergeant-major and orderly -room clerk besides. We were stationed at Santa Maura -about twelve months. One of the Austrian steamers came -in every Sunday morning with the mails from Corfu. I -had to answer by seven p.m. the same day, when the -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_305" id="Page_305">{305}</a></span> -steamer returned. This was the only mail during the week. -The island of Santa Maura is separated from Greece by -a broad lagoon which abounds with wild ducks; they -came in immense flocks in the evening to feed during the -night, and flew away at daylight. Many a night the -officers of the garrison put in after those ducks. After -drills and parades the men amused themselves with different -games, such as cricket, ball-playing, skittles, and -pitching quoits. There was only one thing that marred -our pleasure, and that was desertion; an idea had got -into the heads of some of the worst characters to desert—Greece -being close, and only the shallow lagoon between -them and freedom; a few of them, whom we were much -better without, deserted into Greece.</p> - -<p>We had a lance-corporal named John Smith (a Yankee), -who was in charge of a fatigue party outside the barrack -gate, where he induced the six men to desert. The alarm -being given by the sentry on the battery, that the fatigue -party were escaping across the lagoon, I seized a rifle, ran -out the back gate, loading as I went along, sighting it for -six hundred yards. I fired at Smith as he was crossing -the water, striking him in the heel, knocking the boot off -his left foot, leaving it behind in the water where we -found it with the bullet hole through it. After they got -into Greece they were free, and we could not touch them; -they carried the wounded man off with them.</p> - -<p>A man named John Nobles, who was servant to Lieutenant -Hall, robbed his master of thirty-six sovereigns and -deserted into Greece. The sentry on the battery saw him -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_306" id="Page_306">{306}</a></span> -with his dog early in the morning walking on the spit -towards Greece, but did not suspect that he was going to -desert as he told the sentry that he was going to give his -master's dog a run on the spit, when he let him pass, as he -was an officer's servant. About ten o'clock in the morning, -the officer missed his servant; his suspicions being aroused -he opened his cash box, and found the money gone; he -reported it to Captain Tewart, who ordered myself and -a corporal to start after Noble, the chief of police sending -a policeman as an interpreter. We scoured the country -as far as Missolonghi, where we arrived about six o'clock -in the evening, and were shown great attention, and -treated well by the Tetrarch, who sent an escort of cavalry -with us next morning, besides furnishing us with -horses. We divided into three parties, each taking a different -road; towards evening we halted at a village. I put -up at a respectable private house, there being no public -houses in the place; my escort were billeted on the people -of the village. It being their dinner-hour, the hostess -spread a clean white cloth on the carpet in the middle of -the floor, on this were placed a pepper-box, salt-cellar, and -a roll of bread for each person, little mats were placed -round on which the dishes were placed in succession; -all sat down cross-legged round the cloth; a long narrow -strip of white linen was spread round on our knees; there -were eight persons sitting round this spread. A large -soup-tureen containing a kind of thick soup and meat -stood in the centre, when we were all politely invited -to commence. They all dipped their spoons in the tureen, -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_307" id="Page_307">{307}</a></span> -and asked me to join them, but I declined by saying that -"I did not like soup just then." After soup other dishes, -consisting of stewed mutton, fish, rice, milk, vegetables -and fruit were handed round; they all helped themselves. -The left hand is used to convey the food to the mouth, -the thumb and two first fingers doing the duty of forks. -There is a neatness in the Grecian way of manipulating the -food that can only be acquired by care and long practice; -the thumb and two fingers alone must touch the meat, the -rest of the hand remaining perfectly clean and free from -contact with it. An amusing incident occurred, tending -to increase our merriment. Mustard, an unusual condiment -on a Greek's table, was handed round, perhaps in -honour of my presence. An old lady, not knowing what it -was, took a spoonful, and before any one had time to interfere, -had swallowed it. Her face became crimson, tears ran -down her cheeks, she sneezed and appeared choking; but -at last, with a supreme effort she regained her composure -and tried to look as pleasant as circumstances would allow. -It is considered a mark of great attention on the -part of the hostess, to pick the daintiest bit of food, and -place it in the mouth of any of her guests. Native wine -was handed round, in small tumblers. I managed to make -an excellent dinner, being used to squatting down to my -meals in camp before Sebastopol; therefore I was not at -all awkward on this occasion. Dinner being over, the -cloth was removed, when coffee and cigarettes were -handed round. Next morning we had a cup of coffee -and started off scouring the country; at last we passed -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_308" id="Page_308">{308}</a></span> -through a wood where we saw Noble's dog, and close to -him was the body of Noble covered up with a little earth. -We immediately acquainted the authorities, who held a -post-mortem examination on the body. We then searched -and found the guide that accompanied him, and had him -searched, when the money was found on him, except two -dollars which Noble had paid for horse-hire for himself -and his guide. When travelling along through the wood, -this Greek guide whom he hired to show him the way, -murdered him for the money, and buried him in the -woods. Only for the faithful dog we might never have -found either the murdered man or the murderer. The -money was retained by the Greek authorities until after -the trial.</p> - -<p>We then retired to Missolonghi, when I returned the -Tetrarch many thanks for the assistance he rendered us -in securing the murderer and the money. He then gave -me a letter of congratulation to the Commandant, when -we returned to Santa Maura.</p> - -<p>The guide was tried by the Greek authorities, when, by -a force of circumstantial evidence, he was found guilty -and sentenced to penal servitude.</p> - -<div class="image-center"> - <img src="images/dec-2.jpg" width="150" height="52" alt="dec"/> -</div> - -<div> - -<div class="pagenum"><a name="Page_309" id="Page_309">{309}</a></div> - -<div class="image-center"> - <img src="images/bar-5.jpg" width="350" height="58" alt="bar"/> -</div> - -<h2>CHAPTER XXVII.</h2> - -<p class="header">SIR HENRY STORKS—ALBANIA—VISIT NICROPOLIS—THE BRIGAND -CHIEF—TURKISH BATHS—COFFEE HOUSES—TURKISH LADIES' COSTUME—SERGEANTS' -BALL—THE ROUTE—CORFU—ROUTE—WEST INDIES—THE -VOYAGE—THE BURNING MOUNTAIN—GIBRALTAR—MADIERA—TENERIFFE—SANTA -CRUZ—CAPE DE VERDE ISLANDS—TRINIDAD—JAMAICA.</p> - -</div> - -<div> - <img class="drop-cap" src="images/drop-i.jpg" width="38" height="80" alt="i"/> -</div> - -<p class="drop-cap"><span class="uppercase">In</span> -the month of October, Sir Henry Storks, Lord -High Commissioner of the Ionian Islands, with his -aide-de-camp, visited Santa Maura, when he inspected -the troops, barrack and fortifications, and expressed himself -highly pleased at the appearance and discipline of -the troops, the cleanliness of the barrack and the good -order and thorough repair in which the guns, shot, shell -and fortifications were kept. Several of the naval officers -of H. M. S. "Icarus," in which he came from Corfu, accompanied -him on shore and invited the commandant to -lunch with them on board. In November, myself, two -other sergeants, and three Greeks, went on an excursion -to Previsa, a town in Albania, seven miles across the bay. -We rowed across in a large four-oared boat. The entrance -to the harbour was indeed a pretty sight; nothing could -be more romantic than the little bay stretched out before -us, the variety and beauty of the numerous groves of olive -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_310" id="Page_310">{310}</a></span> -and fruit trees along the banks, the number of little boats -gliding about on the smooth, clear, blue waters, and small -vessels cruising from one island to another, with the tall -minarets towering high above the numerous white houses, -making up as charming a picture as could be imagined. -On landing we were surprised to see the appearance of -the town. A few of the houses are good, substantial buildings -and comparatively clean and comfortable; but the -rest of the town had a dirty and slovenly appearance. -The streets are narrow and crooked, the shops are little -recesses from six to eight feet deep, without windows; -they close with folding doors, which are thrown open -during business hours. Here the occupant sits, sells, works -and carries on almost every conceivable kind of business. -In one of these places you can see a dry-goods merchant -with his stock stored in a little space not more than eight -feet square: The floor is elevated two steps above the -street and the tradesman sits behind a little counter. -The customers stand at the open front and all the business -is done in the street; every one sits down, the merchant -sits at his shop, the mechanic at his work.</p> - -<p>It is amusing to see what ingenuity they exercise in -getting everything within their reach, that they may not -change their position. After we had walked through -several streets we visited the barrack, where the guard -turned out, and the sentries presented arms as we passed -their posts; we supposed that they did not know our -rank or else they never would have presented arms, but -we were neatly dressed in our uniform and swords, and we -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_311" id="Page_311">{311}</a></span> -supposed they took us for commissioned officers. One of -the Turkish officers accompanied us around the barracks -and showed us through the hospital. Oh! what a contrast -between British soldiers' barracks and hospitals and -the Turkish, the latter are dirty and the men dirty, squatting -round the rooms and lounging on their little, dirty-looking -beds, and the hospital was even worse; the smell -was intolerable, the boards black and greasy, in fact everything -was filthy and smelled strongly of oil and garlic.</p> - -<p>We thanked the officer and left the barracks.</p> - -<p>One of the Greeks who accompanied us took us to a -friend's house where we had luncheon, which consisted of -rolls of brown bread, cheese, salad, cakes and coffee; -after which we hired six Turkish ponies and started off -to visit the ruins of the ancient city of Nicropolis. A ride -of fifteen miles in an easterly direction from Previsa, was -soon passed in pleasant and cheerful company; the beauty -of the groves, the luxurious vegetation, the mild and -balmy air, all conspired to add to the pleasure of the ride; -and now we are approaching the ancient city. What do -we see? Before us immense ruins for miles around, old -walls towering high in the air, wide enough to drive a -coach and four on their top, with high-arched doorways. -A large amphitheatre with massive stone seats, encircled -by a colossal wall, surmounted with ancient looking -figures in marble, half man, half beast.</p> - -<p>After visiting a great many of these wonderful old -ruins and learning all we could of their ancient history -from our guide, who was well informed and could make -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_312" id="Page_312">{312}</a></span> -himself understood in English,—at his suggestion we -took a detour to visit some robbers' caves, which he said -were worth seeing.</p> - -<p>One of the wild, deep passes through which he led us -is celebrated as the scene of the exploits of a robber chieftain, -named Abdallah Niebhr. No one could go through -this narrow pass without his sanction. The solitary pedestrian -as well as the grand carriage were alike the object -of his plunder. The whole country stood in fear of -him; travellers trembled at his name; a pasha on one occasion, -attempting to pass here with his retinue, was shot -dead by this daring bandit. For over forty years he -contrived to elude capture and prosecuted his career of -bloodshed, plunder, and crime. At last he and his accomplices -fell into the hands of the Turkish authorities and -were sent to Constantinople. The passage is now safe -and has been for many years, but the remembrance of -these bloody atrocities often sends a thrill of terror -through the heart of the timid traveller. Continuing our -journey through olive groves, we arrived at our friend's -house at seven o'clock, and had just time for a bath before -dinner. This refreshed us after our journey in the hot -sun and also increased our appetites to relish the dish of -lamb, roasted whole, and stuffed with rice and pestacheos, -besides other trimmings, consisting of rolls of brown -bread, eggs fried in butter, cheese, garlic and oil, fruit and -vegetables. Dinner being over, coffee was handed round, -and at ten o'clock we retired to rest. After a good night's -rest we were up early and had a Turkish bath. This is -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_313" id="Page_313">{313}</a></span> -by far the best fitted and most useful part of the whole -establishment. It comprises a suite of three rooms, the -first is a square apartment, chiefly constructed of marble, -and terminating in a cupola studded with little panes of -glass through which the light enters; a deep reservoir -attached to the outer wall, with an opening which is -heated by a furnace built under it, a number of pipes -attached to the furnace circulate through the walls of the -bath and throw great heat into it. A graceful fountain -conducts the water from the reservoir, and on each side -of the fountain is a low wooden platform which serves as -a seat for bathers, who sit cross-legged, and undergo a -long and complicated process of washing and scrubbing. -The second room is called the Touklouk, is constructed -very much in the same style, but is smaller and has no -furniture but a marble platform upon which mattresses -and cushions are placed for the use of those who wish to -repose between intervals of bathing, or do not wish to -face the cooler temperature of the Hamman (the first -room). This room is furnished with sofas, on which the -bathers rest and dress after quitting the bath. Turkish -women are very fond of this bath, and capable of remaining -for hours together in that hot and depressing atmosphere. -They smoke cigarettes, eat fruit and sweets, and -drink sherbet; and finally, after all the blood has rushed -to their heads and their faces are crimson, they wrap -themselves in soft garments and pass into a third or -outer chamber, where they repose on a luxurious couch -until their system shakes off part of the heat and languor -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_314" id="Page_314">{314}</a></span> -that these baths produce. A bath being an indispensable -appendage to every house, one is to be found in every -Turkish dwelling.</p> - -<p>The outer bath-room is a large stone building, lighted -by a cupola, with wooden platforms running all round, -upon which small mattresses and couches are spread for -the men. A fountain of cold water stands in the outer -hall of the public baths. Coffee houses are to be met -with everywhere, and are very numerous in the towns. -The Albanians resort to them when they leave their home -early in the morning to take a cup of coffee and smoke a -nargile before going to business. In the evening they -step in to have a chat with their neighbours and hear the -news of the day. Turkish newspapers are becoming common -of late in these coffee-houses, and are to be found in -all of them. Few of these establishments possess an inviting -exterior or can boast any arrangements with regard -to comfort or accommodation; a few mats are placed round -on a raised seat, and some low stools for strangers; small -gardens are attached to some, where the Turk may be -seen sitting cross-legged and smoking his tchibouk, while -others atone for the deficiencies of their interior by the -lovely situation they occupy in this picturesque and luxurious -land. What a Turk heartily enjoys is his tchibouk -and coffee, sitting by the side of a running stream, or in -some spot commanding a fine view. This quiescent -pleasure he calls "taking kaif" (comfort): on the whole -his capacity for enjoyment is rather of a passive than an -active kind, The costume worn by ladies consists of a -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_315" id="Page_315">{315}</a></span> -gown of cloth or damask silk, with a border of similar -workmanship; opening upon the breast, it displays a -handsome white silk gauze frill round the neck; the -sleeves hang loosely at the wrists, covered by a velvet -jacket, richly worked with gold thread: indoors they -wear a red cap covered with pearls and precious stones; -the slippers are equally adorned with embroidery and -jewels according to the rank of the lady. The yashmak -(veil), and feridji (cloak), are universally worn by Turkish -women of all classes out of doors. The former varies -according to the rank and place of residence of the wearers, -from ordinary calico to the finest tarlatan, while the -latter may be of almost any colour or material, but green -is the prevailing colour; the trowsers of red silk hanging -loosely over a high-heeled and neat fitting yellow morroco -boot, which wrinkles over the ancle. As we were standing -in the consul's office getting our passports vized, Sergeant -Parkinson's rifle was accidently discharged, the bullet -passing through the ceiling over the office. The consul's -lady had a narrow escape, for the bullet passed through -her dress. After paying the consul fifty cents each for -having our passports vized, and thanking our friend for -the attention shown us while at his house, we departed, -rowing back to Santa Maura, where we arrived at nine -o'clock in the evening, after enjoying three days' pleasure -which will be long remembered by us.</p> - -<p>At Christmas the sergeants gave a ball, and issued -invitations to several friends and a few civilians. Dancing -commenced at eight o'clock and kept up with "esprit" -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_316" id="Page_316">{316}</a></span> -till twelve, when supper was announced, after which the -president proposed the health of the Queen which was -drunk with a right royal good will, the band playing the -National Anthem, and afterwards toasts, songs and -speeches were indulged in by many round the board; -when dancing was again resumed, and kept up till the -small hours of the morning.</p> - -<p>On the 9th May, 1863, we were relieved at Santa -Maura by a detachment of the 9th Regiment, the "Holy -Boys," who arrived from Corfu in the morning, by -steamer, and we embarked on the same steamer in the -afternoon for Corfu, arriving there by five o'clock next -morning, when we were ordered on detachment at Vedo, -a small island close to Corfu, but a strong fortification -commanded by Colonel Sankey, of the 9th Regiment, -where garrison duty and field days were frequent.</p> - -<p>On the 6th November, the British government agreed -to give up the Ionian islands to the Greeks. On the 1st -of January, 1864, Colonel Hobbs took command of the 2nd -Battalion 6th Royal Regiment, vice Colonel Fraser, and on -the same day we commenced to blow up the forts, before -giving up the island to the Greeks. In Vedo, the lunette -and keep were blown up by the end of January, and Fort Neuf -and the citadel were all demolished by the 1st of -March, 1864.</p> - -<p>On the 4th of March, 1864, the 2nd Battalion 6th -Royal Regiment embarked on board of H. M. S. "Orontes," -for Jamaica, in the West Indies. At two o'clock in the -afternoon we steamed out of the harbour and bid farewell -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_317" id="Page_317">{317}</a></span> -to the Ionian islands. The weather was fine and clear, -the water blue and smooth; our ship glided onwards at -the rate of ten knots an hour, soon leaving the land far -behind. In the evening the moon shone forth in all her -glory and brightness on the face of the smooth blue waters -of the Mediterranean.</p> - -<p>On the evening of the third day we sighted Mount -Etna, raising its fiery summit towards the sky, and sending -up volumes of fire and smoke as it were among the -stars, illuminating the country for miles round. Many of -us stopped on deck till a late hour watching this grand -phenomenon.</p> - -<p>On the morning of the 10th of March, we arrived at -Gibraltar, and moored alongside the New Mole. Here -the regiment disembarked and encamped on the New -Mole for a week, with a view to the health of the troops, -during which time the ship coaled, cleaned, and was fumigated. -At the same time the troops got their linen -washed, and everything clean and ready for the long -voyage to the West Indies.</p> - -<p>On the 17th of March we again embarked, and in the -afternoon moved out from our moorings and proceeded -round the New Mole, and passed Bona-vista Barrack, -when we bid a last farewell to the old rock of Gibraltar, -and, as the day was well advanced, hastened on so as to -pass through the straits before dark. Early next morning -we passed the southerly point of Europe, and as we -steamed on we gradually lost sight of the land, which was -beautifully illuminated by the rising sun, affording us a -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_318" id="Page_318">{318}</a></span> -faint view of the sun-scorched peaks of the African coast. -The weather was delightful, with scarce a ripple on the -water.</p> - -<p>On the morning of the 21st of March we passed close -to the beautiful island of Madeira. The first impressions -of this island are delightful and striking, with its luxurious -gardens smiling with gorgeous flowers, and its mountain -sides cultivated almost to their summits with beautiful -plants. Nature exhibits herself here with such varied -charms that imagination can scarcely picture a lovelier -scene.</p> - -<p>The product which has made the name of Madeira famous -and familiar is its wine, now produced in great -quantities; this and the cultivation of the sugar-cane -form its principal trade. At twelve o'clock we passed -the Desertas, a group of barren rocks. These rocks appear -to be only frequented by fishermen. One of these isles -is a high pyramidical rock which at a distance very much -resemble a sail.</p> - -<p>March 23rd. At daylight the brilliant light on Cape -Teneriffe was descried ahead. We ran in for the land, -and the high precipitous rocks, all bleak and bare, here -and there broken by deep and rugged clefts, rose in bold -outline before us. Somewhat later, as the clouds cleared -away, the celebrated Peak was in sight, a grand and solitary -object towering to the clouds in seeming desolation; -for, although there is a certain amount of fertility on its -sides, it was not apparent as we approached it. By eight -o'clock we ran into the wharf at Santa Cruz, and, after a -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_319" id="Page_319">{319}</a></span> -visit from the health officer, all were free for a run on shore -while the ship was coaling. There is little at Santa Cruz -itself to interest the stranger. The houses are poor structures, -the streets are narrow, but they are kept very clean; -there are no public buildings with any pretensions to -taste or elegance. Nevertheless, one is repaid for a -stroll in the country, where the scenery is remarkably -wild and impressive—deep ravines, from which bold rocks, -rise abruptly, void of every trace of vegetation except a -few cacti and other hardy plants.</p> - -<p>There is a sort of wondrous grandeur in this volcanic -scenery—in the scorched craters of these enormous rocks, -ribbed at the sides, no traces of life, no appearance of -vegetation—all is arid, dry, and parched, while away to -the southward can just be discerned a fine picture of -woodland scenery, arresting the eye at once by its great -contrast, and, as it were, compelling one to admire the -extreme beauty afforded by the charming landscape. -Here and there were noticed inclosures of cacti, used in -rearing the cochineal, which with the castor-oil plant, -appears to be largely cultivated for exportation. I and two -sergeants, with our wives, entered a saloon to take refreshments, -as well as to learn the custom and habits of the -people. During the time we were enjoying the lunch, we -heard the landlady say to her husband in Spanish, "charge -them English well, they have plenty of money," fortunately -one of the sergeant's wives, being a Spaniard, understood -what was said, when they had a most amusing -row in the Spanish language, the landlady coming off second -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_320" id="Page_320">{320}</a></span> -best; she did not get as much out of us as she had -anticipated. Santa Cruz boasts of a very ancient and -time-worn cathedral, which we visited. It was here that -Nelson (1797) undertook an expedition against Teneriffe, -which although unsuccessful and disastrous, displayed -great heroism and bravery. The two flags captured on -this occasion are retained in this old cathedral, and the -inhabitants still bear in mind the attack and repulse. -Here the immortal Nelson lost his arm, and it was the -only affair in which he was unsuccessful.</p> - -<p>Toward evening we left the harbour of Santa Cruz, -the bright moon-light affording us a capital view of the -Peak, which frowned upon us in all its grandeur, its head -hoary with many a winters snow. A fine favouring -breeze was with us all night; at dawn of the following -morning the island of Teneriffe was looming far behind -us on the distant horizon. From the present may be -said to commence our dreary, monotonous, long voyage, -from the pillars of Hercules in the east across the broad -Atlantic to the West Indies. Life on board ship and -the varied incidents at sea, all tend to rouse feelings and -sensations which are reserved alone for those whose business -is on the great waters. To the officers and soldiers—as -well as the ladies, the routine on board ship, especially -of this splendid transport, was entirely different from -that they had hitherto enjoyed on shore. Fortunately -the varied scenes were under most favourable circumstances -as regards the weather. At first the usages of -naval, every-day life seemed particularly vexatious, and -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_321" id="Page_321">{321}</a></span> -annoying, when so many human beings were packed so -closely into such a small space; but after a few days, -when sea-sickness had been got over, one and all perceived, -to a certain extent, the necessity of order, cleanliness, -and good discipline. Scrubbing, washing and holystoning -the decks, cleaning brass and wood work, the -troops parading, watches assembling, sailors mustering at -quarters and divisions, are all measures which tend to -enforce the discipline so essential to good government. -Existence in the limited space of a ship, with so many -troops on board, for weeks completely isolated from the -outer world, is so peculiar and interesting to those unacquainted -with the sea, that I may be permitted to make -a few remarks as to our daily routine. From the hour -of four o'clock in the morning, as soon as the watch has -been mustered, bustle and activity begin, lasting throughout -the day, and even to the hour when the night reminds -one of sleep; pumps are manned, water is splashed -over the decks in all directions, yet it is absolutely essential -to the preservation of the health and comfort of the -troops and those on board. By six o'clock the washing -is nearly finished, when all the hammocks are piped up -and stowed. It is now time for breakfast, consisting of -cocoa and biscuit. The men then prepare and dress for -parade at ten o'clock, which lasts for about an hour. At -noon the dinner bugle sounds, and although consisting as -it invariably does, of either salt junk or plum duff, or -salt pork and pea-soup, there are few men healthier than -soldiers while on board ship. Grog time comes next -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_322" id="Page_322">{322}</a></span> -(when half a gill of rum, lime juice, with two pints of -water are supplied to each man), and with the hour of -smoking, constitutes a pleasant break in the day. During -the afternoon the band plays on the quarter deck, -and the men sit around in groups, singing, dancing, and -all sorts of amusing games, until four o'clock, when the -sailors assemble at their stations with rifle, cutlass, and -pistol for inspection by their divisional officers. The -inspection over, the sailors resume their work to make or -furl sail, according to the wind. Supper is now prepared, -consisting of tea and biscuit, after which, at eight o'clock, -smoking is permitted, but not between decks, hammocks -having been piped down at 7.30.</p> - -<p>The orderly officers always go the rounds of the decks, -to ascertain that all is correct, when those off watch are -expected to turn into their hammocks; and so ends the -day and its duties. This was the routine every day during -the whole voyage.</p> - -<p>At six o'clock p.m., the officers, both naval and military, -usually dine together, when the incidents of the day, and -the progress of the ship, and other matters which are sure -to turn up, form a lively conversational hour, during -which time the band plays. After dinner the assembly -of smokers usually muster on deck where all sorts of -yarns and topics engross the attention until bed-time. -Sunday alone seems to break the monotony and routine -of every day life at sea; when after divine service at ten -o'clock, the remainder of the day is usually spent in -reading or sleeping.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_323" id="Page_323">{323}</a></span> -On the morning of March 31st, we sighted Cape de -Verde Islands, and by two in the afternoon we took in coal -at Port Grand, St. Vincent; here we had a good view of -African negroes, who coaled our ship with baskets which -they carried on their heads. They were very tall and -powerfully built men, with no clothing except a little -round their loins. What a contrast in the scenery between -this place and Madeira! Here are barren rocks, -and not the faintest indication of vegetation to be seen -in any direction, although its formation is somewhat -similar.</p> - -<p>The town, if it can be so named, consists of a few straggling -houses and the stores of the coal contractors, situated -along the shore, while stretching away behind are -several high, rough and jagged peaks and mountains, -affording a fine background for the barren and uninteresting -coast scenery.</p> - -<p>Next day, at eight o'clock, we reached Santiago, another -island of the same group; here we stayed for two or three -hours. The houses, with a few exceptions, were poor -specimens of habitations, nearly all built of stone, and one -story high. The interiors present only a few articles of -absolute necessity; of home comfort or cleanliness, in our -sense of the word, they seem to have no idea.</p> - -<p>The population appear to be made up of an intermixture -of Portuguese settlers and negroes, who cultivate -little patches of land in the valleys where are produced a -few tropical fruits.</p> - -<p>During the voyage our drum-major and a private fell -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_324" id="Page_324">{324}</a></span> -down the hatch-way; the soldier was killed and the drum-major -severely injured, so much so that it laid him up -for ever afterwards.</p> - -<p>After parade next morning the bell tolled, and the -regiment were present to pay their last tribute to their -comrade. The ship's captain read the beautiful and appropriate -service for a burial at sea, and on reaching that -portion, "we commit his body to the deep," it was slid -out of the port, wrapped in a hammock, with a round -shot at its feet, into the bright, blue, deep sea, to be seen -no more until that day when the sea shall give up its -dead.</p> - -<p>On the 12th we cast anchor in the harbour of Trinidad, -where two companies were landed on detachment. -The town has no pretensions to size or elegance, it is, however, -most picturesquely situated along the shore of the -island, backed up by a curiously shaped hill with a large -pitch lake on its summit. This is a very important port -of the West Indies, particularly for the mail service, some -eight or ten different lines reaching here monthly.</p> - -<p>At four o'clock in the evening we left the anchorage -under sail and steam, with a fresh evening breeze, running -along at twelve knots an hour. On the 18th April, 1864, -at 7 o'clock, a.m., the island of Jamaica was in sight. At -nine o'clock we took a pilot on board to navigate the vessel -through the intricate and dangerous narrows between -the reefs. As the ship approached and rounded Port -Royal, we cast anchor in Kingston harbour at eleven a.m. -As we lay at anchor, the sight was indeed beautiful, -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_325" id="Page_325">{325}</a></span> -the city with its white houses peeping out from amongst -the dark green foliage; with Newcastle looming up in -the distance with its white wooden barracks, on the side -of St. Catharine's peak, with its lofty summit towering -towards the heavens, the mountain covered with forests -of mahogany, cedar, yellow sander and coffee plantations, -and the valley covered with large green plantations of -sugar-cane. Nature was indeed looking charming; the -view in every direction was exquisite,—look where we -would there were nature's beauties before us. The entrance -to the harbour at the end of Port Royal, broken into little -islands, where tradition says a town was submerged by -an earthquake, the sparkling sea running here and there -into creeks, bays and inlets, together with the evergreen -foliage of tropical trees and flowers, made up a very attractive -landscape, which gave us a most favourable impression -of Jamaica. Directly in front of us are the landing-place -and jetties, where several vessels are flying the -flag of Old England.</p> - -<p>At four o'clock in the afternoon we disembarked and -formed on the quay, where we were surrounded by a conglomeration -of the inhabitants of all shades of colour. After -detailing two companies for detachment, one at Port Royal -and the other at Uppark Camp, we marched off to Newcastle, -a distance of 18 miles, seven of which were up a -steep, mountain, zigzag foot-path. The weather being so -hot we did not attempt to march during the heat of the -day. The word being given, we marched off with the -band playing, followed through the streets by a motley -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_326" id="Page_326">{326}</a></span> -crowd of negroes, mulattoes, and creoles, raising a cloud of -sand and dust as we advanced. After a very fatiguing -march of ten miles we halted at a place called the gardens, -where we piled arms and rested for two hours, resuming -our journey at one o'clock in the morning, up a mountain -road which tried many of our best marchers, arriving at -Newcastle barrack at sun-rise, very much fatigued after -the march during the close, warm night. But as we -marched up the mountain the wild scenery surpassed anything -that I have yet seen, and compensated somewhat -for the fatiguing march;—the mountain side clothed with -the loveliest tropical fruits, hanging over our heads as we -stooped under them by the way, bananas, mangoes, tamarinds, -pine-apples, pomegranates, bread-fruits, oranges, -lemons, coffee and sugar-cane; while the air was perfumed -with the aroma of the sweet smelling rose-trees, oleanders, -fuchsias, myrtles, ferns, and odoriferous magnolias, -with the deep gullies at our feet where the sparkling -waters jump and foam as they rush in torrents down the -steep rocks, towards their ocean home.</p> - -<p>One must travel a long way indeed before he meets -with prettier scenery or a place that will surpass in fragrance -and loveliness the floral beauty and picturesque landscapes -of this island.</p> - -<div class="pagenum"><a name="Page_327" id="Page_327">{327}</a></div> - -<div> - -<div class="image-center"> - <img src="images/bar-5.jpg" width="350" height="58" alt="bar"/> -</div> - -<h2>CHAPTER XXVIII.</h2> - -<p class="header">JAMAICA—THE EXHIBITION—MARKET—REBELLION—THE COMMISSION—COL. -HOBBS—THE VOYAGE—ROUTE—VOYAGE—QUEEN'S BIRTHDAY—EDINBURGH—CARLTON -HILL—TOLBOOTH—QUEEN MARY'S ROOM—DUNOON—DISCHARGED—DALKEITH—GLASGOW—EMBARK -FOR CANADA—THE -VOYAGE—ARRIVAL—MONTREAL—KINGSTON—PICTON—THE -DUNKIN BILL—THE MARQUIS OF LORNE.</p> - -</div> - -<div> - <img class="drop-cap" src="images/drop-t.jpg" width="51" height="80" alt="t"/> -</div> - -<p class="drop-cap"><span class="uppercase">The</span> -barracks or camp were situated on a high ridge -of St. Catharine's mountain, called Newcastle, -famous for its exhilarating, pure air, with immensely deep -gullies on each side; each wooden hut built on terraces, -one above the other, consists of one room. The officers' -quarters were neat little isolated cottages, surrounded -with lovely flowers, trees, and shrubs. The parade ground -was a large terrace which had been excavated and levelled -with a nice mound round its lower edge, forming a promenade -as well as a drill ground. We had one large -wooden building where divine service was held by -all denominations in their turn; it also served as a schoolhouse -and lecture hall. The married sergeants' quarters -were distributed on each side of the ridge, in separate -little cottages, with flower gardens to each. The means -by which the troops were supplied with water was a novel -and most clever proof of our engineer's skill. From the -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_328" id="Page_328">{328}</a></span> -upper end or source of the gully stream, which was many -feet above the barracks, the water was conducted along -the brow of the ridge by means of a large trough of bamboos -resting on trestles, passing into a large reservoir -situated a little above the barracks, from which pipes -conducted the water to the respective quarters and rooms. -Before this improvement, the water had to be carried -from the bottom of the gulley in large leather bags by -donkeys, and was doled out to the troops daily. Above -the barracks on a flat side of the mountain, Col. Hobbs -apportioned a garden for each company, which we reclaimed -and cultivated, raising almost all sorts of vegetables, -viz: yams, cocoas, sweet potatoes, cauliflowers, cabbages, -potatoes, celery, lettuces, &c., besides pineapples -and strawberries, with a variety of lovely flowers.</p> - -<p>Many of the officers and most of the colour sergeants -kept horses. Being the wine and mess sergeant to the -officers, I had the privilege of keeping four horses, which -I frequently hired out to the officers. These horses enabled -us to travel through the mountainous country for many -miles.</p> - -<p>On Christmas eve of 1864, one of our much respected -comrades, Qr.-M. Sergeant Thomas Bellinton, died of heart -disease, much regretted by the battalion, leaving a wife -and three small children to mourn his untimely end.</p> - -<p>In the beginning of 1865, Colonel Elkington was appointed -Deputy Adjutant-General at Kingston. During -the summer we had an exhibition in the hall, of fancy, useful, -and ornamental articles, manufactured by the soldiers -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_329" id="Page_329">{329}</a></span> -of the battalion; and the number of articles, as well as -the skill manifested in their manufacture, was very much -admired by the visitors from the City of Kingston and -the surrounding country. Among some of the distinguished -visitors present, whose names the author entered -in his note book, were, Governor Eyre and lady, General -O'Connor and lady, Deputy Adjutant-General Lieutenant-Colonel -Elkington and lady, and others. Some of the -articles on exhibition were wonderfully good, and sold at -a high price. A Lancashire weaver made a miniature loom -out of the bones which he saved from time to time, and -wove a miniature web of fine texture on it to the amusement -of those present. This was bought for fifteen pounds. -William Sugden, a carpenter, made a model of the cantonment -of Newcastle, which was sold to Rev. Mr. Fife for -fifteen pounds. Henry Foreman, made a model battery -from bone—sold for ten pounds; Corporal Gilchrist, a bed -quilt, sold for nine pounds. Other articles, such as fancy -work-boxes, shirt buttons, and several articles of furniture -and wearing apparel, too numerous to mention, were exhibited -and sold. In June, 1865, Sergeant James Rance, -Officers' Mess Sergeant, died of heart disease, leaving a -wife and four children to mourn his loss. I, being the -senior Colour-Sergeant in the Battalion, was chosen and -appointed to the vacancy caused by his death. Sergeant-Major -Robert Hyde was promoted to Quarter-Master, and -Colour-Sergeant Neale appointed Sergeant-Major in his -place.</p> - -<p>We had a market every Wednesday and Saturday -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_330" id="Page_330">{330}</a></span> -round the canteen, when the negroes from the country -brought in all sorts of produce, some on donkeys, but -most on their heads. A line of black women might be -seen on those days, very early in the morning, coming to -market along the narrow mountain path, with baskets of -yams, cocoas, plantains, bananas, pine-apples, mangoes, -oranges, lemons, bread-fruit and pomegranates, besides -provisions in abundance. These people come miles with -their loads, and barefooted, their clothes tucked up to -their knees by a handkerchief tied round a little below -the hips, securing them in graceful folds, with a light, gay -handkerchief on their heads. They wear light, showy -garments, and are very fond of any common jewellery, -which they wear in their ears and on their fingers.</p> - -<p>We were enjoying every comfort in this delightful station, -when we were aroused by a report that the negroes -had broken out in open rebellion at Morant Bay. It appeared, -from what we could learn afterwards, that a local -preacher, named George W. Gordon, had been for some time -urging the black population of Saint-Thomas-in-the-east -to rise in rebellion against the Government, telling them -there were back lands which they could get, and urging -them to pay him money for the purpose of agitation. -This, it is said, was the doctrine he preached in his -chapel. And a few compatriots of his named Paul Bogle, -William Bogle, William Burie, James Burie, and others, -were engaged in swearing in, drilling, and organizing -forces in order to attack the white population, when at -dinner on Christmas night, kill them, and take their -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_331" id="Page_331">{331}</a></span> -wives. But an accident occurred which fortunately, nay, -providentially, brought this base conspiracy to light.</p> - -<p>On the 7th October, 1865, which was Saturday, and -market day at Morant Bay, a Court of Petty Sessions -was held in that town. A man who had been convicted -by the court for some crime, afterwards interrupted the -proceedings of the court, and when the police endeavoured -to arrest him, he was rescued from their hands by -the mob. For this act, warrants were issued against two -ringleaders named Bogle, and several others.</p> - -<p>On Tuesday, the 10th, six or eight policemen and some -constables proceeded to Stony Gut to execute the warrants; -they found Paul Bogle, who, after the warrant for -his apprehension had been read to him, told them that he -would not go with them. When they proceeded to arrest -him, he cried "Help here!" and immediately a body of -men, from four to six hundred in number, rushed out -from Bogle's chapel and attacked the police; these men -were armed with muskets, pistols, cutlasses, pikes, sticks -and stones. The police were overpowered and severely -wounded by the mob. In the meantime information of -this rising was at once sent to the custos, Baron Yon -Ketelhodt, who applied to the governor for military aid.</p> - -<p>On the 11th, a meeting was held at Morant Bay, at -twelve o'clock, and proceeded with its business till about -four, when it was disturbed by the noise of a large crowd -approaching, a few volunteers were drawn up outside the -Court House; the crowd advanced; the Riot Act was -read by a magistrate, when stones were thrown at the -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_332" id="Page_332">{332}</a></span> -volunteers, who fired at the mob and retired into the -Court House, when the infuriated rebels surrounded the -Court House and set fire to it. The inmates were then -compelled to leave the building, and endeavoured to conceal -themselves; some fled with their families into the -woods, but others were dragged from their houses and -hiding places and beaten to death; some left for dead on -the ground. Women and children fled for their lives into -the woods, and there remained for days and nights without -food or shelter, while their husbands were left murdered. -The mob gained strength daily, murdering every -white man they came across. They attacked houses and -villages, and numbers of white inhabitants were killed -and brutally treated. At Farrington they halted and organized -in military order, prepared to resist the authorities, -and any force that might be brought against them. -On the 21st October, the Maroons marched out to meet -them, when a sharp skirmish ensued; eventually the -Maroons got the best of it, when the rebels flew. The letter -of Baron Von Ketelhodt, written on the 10th October, -requesting military aid was taken by the authorities into -immediate consideration, and within twenty-four hours' -of its receipt the 2nd Battalion 6th Regiment was on -the march to Morant Bay, where troops were also landed -from Spanish Town, and martial law was proclaimed in -the affected district. After the troops had arrived, they -took many of the rebels and had them tried and executed -or flogged, according to the nature and degree of the -offence. George Wm. Gordon was arrested on the 17th -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_333" id="Page_333">{333}</a></span> -and placed on board H.M.S. "Wolverine," and conveyed -to Morant Bay, where he was tried by a court martial on -the 20th, and on the 21st found guilty and executed on -the charge of high treason against Her Majesty Queen -Victoria. Paul Bogle was apprehended on the 23rd, and -on the 24th was conveyed a prisoner to Morant Bay, -where he was tried and executed with other leaders. -Had it not been for the prompt and stringent measures -resorted to by Governor Eyre in crushing this rebellion, -before it had assumed its intended magnitude, no one can -tell how much more innocent blood of Her Majesty's subjects -would have been spilled by the semi-savage rebels, -urged on by the preacher. As it was, they murdered -Baron Von Ketelhodt and other justices of the peace, -altogether they killed and wounded fifty-six white people. -These details disclosed the worst features of the negro -character, but when white men urge them on they are -guilty of the greatest sin. The merciless beating to death, -the mutilation of the living and the dead, the delight in -blood and murder, tell how the spirit of the savage still -lurks in the hearts of many of the black population of -Jamaica. The promptness and decision with which -Governor Eyre quelled this rebellion, deserved the approbation -and consideration of the Government. Instead of -which, however, he was censured by partisans. The -social circle in England were divided, and controversy -began to rage on the question. In order to satisfy the -public, and settle the question, the Crown issued a commission -of inquiry.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_334" id="Page_334">{334}</a></span> -On the 30th December the commission issued to Sir -Henry Storks, William R. Gurney, Q.C., and Mr. J. B. -Maul, requiring them to make full inquiry into the "origin, -nature, and circumstances of the disturbances, and respecting -the means adopted in the course of the suppression -of the same, and respecting the conduct of those -concerned in such disturbances or suppression." The -gentlemen selected were a sufficient guarantee to the -public that the inquiry would be what it was wished it -should be,—full, searching, and impartial.</p> - -<p>The Commission was opened at Kingston, Jamaica, on -January 23rd, 1866, and closed its prolonged sittings on -March 25th. The Commissioners have discharged their -duties with extraordinary industry, and with the ability -and impartiality which were to be expected of them. -They arrived at the conclusion that there was on the part -of the leaders of the rioters a preconcerted plan, and that -murder was "distinctly contemplated." They nevertheless -find that there was no general conspiracy against the -Government, and the inference is, that the riot, though of -considerable magnitude and danger, was not the result of -any very long standing organization, and that it was -foolish, barbarous, and wicked in its origin, although of -a local character.</p> - -<p>Those who wish to know more about the question can -find it by a search, with moderate diligence, in the blue -books, or the pigeon-holes of the war-office. What I assert -here is from my own knowledge and experience, being -present during the affair.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_335" id="Page_335">{335}</a></span> -Sir Henry Storks was the guest of the officers of the -6th Royal Regiment, for several days after the inquiry -was finished. After the insurrection, the Maroons were -entertained in the city hall, as a mark of their approbation -and gratitude for the manner in which they assisted -in quelling the rebellion.</p> - -<p>At the end of January, Colonel Hobbs took ill, and got -deranged in his mind, when he was placed in the sanitarium -under surveillance. In February he was sent to -England, accompanied by his wife and family, with two -hospital orderlies, to guard and tend him. During the -voyage, watching an opportunity when walking the deck, -he jumped head first down the ash shoot. The ship hove -to at once, boats were lowered to try and rescue him, but -he could not be found; he sank to rise no more till that -day when the sea shall give up its dead. The regiment -was deeply affected at this sad intelligence. He was very -much respected by all classes, and his loss to the regiment -was much deplored.</p> - -<p>In the summer of 1866, the Marquis of Lorne (now Governor-General -of Canada) visited Jamaica, when he and -his tutor were guests of the officers of the 6th Regiment, -at Newcastle. He was tall and slight, and very intelligent, -with fair hair, and about eighteen years old. During -the three years we were in Jamaica, we had one officer -(Ensign Newman) and three privates die with yellow -fever.</p> - -<p>On the 24th March Her Majesty's Ship "Tamar" arrived -at Kingston Harbour with the 84th Regiment, to -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_336" id="Page_336">{336}</a></span> -relieve the 2nd Battalion 6th Regiment. On the 25th we -marched from Newcastle to Uppark Camp, and there remained -until the 1st April, 1867, when we embarked on -board the "Tamar" for Cork. At 2 p.m., we weighed -anchor and steamed out of harbour, rounding Port Royal, -homeward bound; when well clear from the land we picked -up the trade winds and ran on merrily through the Tropics -towards the Azores, at the rate of twelve knots an hour, -full of the hope of speedily seeing the coast of Ireland.</p> - -<p>In the afternoon the band played on the quarter-deck, -and every facility was given to the men to enjoy themselves -by the gentlemanly commander, Captain Sullivan.</p> - -<p>The evening of the 6th May, a bright light at Queenstown -harbour was seen, and the next morning we entered -the port and cast anchor off Queenstown, where we hoped -to land. But we were too sanguine; for after the mails -were brought on board, a large official document was received, -directing the regiment to proceed to Edinburgh, -there to be stationed. After a short stay, we weighed -anchor and steamed out of the harbour, but not before we -got a supply of good fresh bread and beautiful Irish butter, -which appeared to us most delicious after the hard tack -and salt pork we were so tired of during the voyage. -Next morning, amidst haze and fog, we had our first sight -of the English coast, as we passed up channel amidst a -very maze of shipping, outward and homeward bound. -Onward we go, sighting the old familiar headland and -land-marks, the Eddystone light, the Start, the white -cliffs of Portland and Saint Alban's Head, until at the -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_337" id="Page_337">{337}</a></span> -last the Needles were in sight. After a few hours' steaming -through the Solent, we reached Portsmouth harbour -and moored alongside the famous old "Camperdown," -where we took in coal, and afterwards steamed out of the -harbour and steered our course for Scotland.</p> - -<p>On the 9th of May, 1867, we cast anchor in the Firth -of Forth, after a delightful voyage of 40 days. During -the passage many events took place, which, although trivial -in themselves, contributed to render the voyage less -tedious and monotonous; occasionally we spoke or sighted -a vessel, but what seemed to impart an extra interest to -our every-day life, when clear of the Tropics, was the -vast number of sea birds constantly accompanying us, -probably attracted by the numerous fragments of provisions -thrown overboard, cape pigeons, those prettily marked -birds about the size of doves; the majestic albatross, -stormy petrels of all sizes, followed on in motley groups, -never seeming to weary in their search for food. These -birds appear to possess remarkable capacity for remembering -the exact time when they are likely to get a feed, for -day after day, soon after noon, the vicinity of the vessel -was usually animated with their shrill shrieking and fighting -with each other for the dainty morsels thrown overboard.</p> - -<p>At ten o'clock, a.m., we disembarked at Leith Pier and -marched to Edinburgh Castle, "Modern Athens," amid a -crowd of citizens, the band playing "Blue Bonnets o'er -the Border," and other popular Scottish airs, during the -march through the city to the castle, where we were to -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_338" id="Page_338">{338}</a></span> -be quartered; then the usual bustle of taking over barracks, -bed-filling, &c., was gone through. Edinburgh is -a very small garrison, there being only guards to furnish, -viz.: The Castle, Holyrood Palace, and Jock's Lodge. The -forces consisted of the 2nd Battalion 6th Regiment and -the 14th Light Dragoons. On arrival, the men had a -good sum of ship's clearance to draw, and being flush with -money, made it lively for the police about the Canongate -and Dawn Market, so much so that the police undertook -to take some of them to the station-house. This -the soldiers strongly objected to, when a fight ensued; -the police got the worst of it, and the soldiers were rescued. -Afterwards they never attempted to take any of -our men prisoners, instead of which they reported them -at the orderly room, when the offenders were punished -by the commanding officer. During the twelve months -which the 2nd Battalion 6th Royal Regiment was stationed -in Edinburgh, the officers were delighted with the -society, which is regarded as unusually polished, from -the predominance of the professional and literary elements -in its composition. This arises partly from its being -a university town, and partly from the presence of the -Supreme Law Courts of Scotland, all the important legal -business being attracted thither on that account; the lawyers -have charge of most estates throughout the country, -so that there are an unusual number of lawyers and accountants; -its medical practitioners, surgeons and physicians -have a high reputation. It is much resorted to for -the sake of education, for its universities and medical -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_339" id="Page_339">{339}</a></span> -schools, its high schools and its numerous private schools. -For the poorer classes, part of the enormous funds of -"Heriot's Charity" have been diverted for cheaper schools -throughout the city. It is largely resorted to by visitors -to the Highlands of Scotland, and has an unusual number -of well appointed hotels.</p> - -<p>There are four theatres and abundance of amusements, -including an open-air gymnasium, open to the public daily, -admission sixpence. In the southern environs are fine, -open fields, where the game "Golf" has been played from -time immemorial. Excellent street-cabs are to be found, -and street cars run on all the principal streets, and to the -suburbs. From the castle, which crowns the highest point -in the city, a splendid view of Edinburgh and the surrounding -country can be obtained. The old town clustering -along the heights, extends gradually along the top and -sides of the ridge which slopes downwards to the east. For -some centuries the city was confined entirely to this ridge, -and was flanked on the north by a marsh called the -Nor' Loch. The Calton Hill offers to the view a wide-spreading -panorama, with the Leaning Tower away in -the distance towards Granton Pier. At our feet are the -smoking chimneys of "Auld Reekie," from which we -gladly turn our eyes to the blue waters and the shores of -Fife coast, or seek out rest in the shadow of Salisbury -Crags or Arthur's Seat, the tottering arch and crumbling -walls of Holyrood Abbey. The country round is finely -varied on the south, and the richly wooded Corstorphine -Hills, on the east, all within a mile or two of the city; while -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_340" id="Page_340">{340}</a></span> -farther off rise the Pentland Hills, four miles to the southwest, -and to the north the Frith of Forth. In former times -Edinburgh, with its Castle, was selected as the only place -of safety for the royal household, the Parliament, the -mint, and various important offices. By this means rising -in importance, it became densely peopled, and the houses -were built to an unusual height, that the inhabitants -might keep within the walls, for the sake of protection.</p> - -<p>The stranger who enters what is apparently the ground -floor of one of these houses on the north side of High -Street, is often surprised to find himself, without having -gone upstairs, looking from a fourth story window in the -rear. This is due to the steep slope on which the houses -stand, and gives them the command of a beautiful view, -including New Town, and extending across the Frith of -Forth to the varied shores of Fife. The town then consisted -of the original High Street, reaching to the Lawn -Market and Canongate, where a heart-shaped figure, on -High Street pavement, marks the spot where the Heart -of Mid-Lothian once stood; and on the south a narrow -way, called the Cowgate, connected with each other -by several narrow closes and wynds, between dense clusters -of houses. Most of these houses consist of a succession -of flats, each being a separate dwelling, and of such -flats there are seldom fewer than six, and sometimes ten -or twelve, towering to an immense height, and rendered -still more imposing from the manner and position in -which they are built.</p> - -<p>A striking object in the vicinity is the Canongate -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_341" id="Page_341">{341}</a></span> -Tolbooth, with turrets and clock projecting from the -front, on iron brackets, which have taken the place of the -original carved oaken beams. Executions sometimes -took place in front of this building; but a more frequent -place of execution was the Girth Cross, near the foot of -the Canongate. The citizens remained content with these -confined limits until the North Bridge was erected, connecting -the Old Town with the fields in the north, on -which the New Town was beginning to be built. Shortly -afterwards the line of this bridge was extended southwards, -and thus a level was opened to the southern suburbs, -which have since rivalled the New Town in rapid -growth. The Nor' Loch was drained, and partially -bridged over by the mound formed from the earth dug -from the foundations of the New Town, and its situation -is occupied by fine public and private gardens, which -now lie in the centre of the city, and separate the New -Town from the Old, where a military band plays every -Thursday afternoon, to the delight of the citizens who -promenade these gardens. The New Town being built -with much regularity, in straight streets, and in squares -and crescents with numerous gardens, contrasts with the -crowded though picturesque masses of the Old Town. In -recent years, however, great changes have been made, -and several new streets have been opened through the -most crowded and ruinous localities. Among the most -interesting features of the city is the Castle, in which are -shown the ancient regalia of Scotland, and Queen Mary's -room, where King James was let down from the window -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_342" id="Page_342">{342}</a></span> -in a basket, and Queen Margaret's little chapel, which -stands on the ramparts, close to which is "Mons-Meg," -said to be the oldest cannon in Great Britain. It is constructed -of thick staves of wrought iron, with bands of -the same material. Hundreds of visitors enter the Castle -daily to see Queen Mary's room, the ancient regalia, -and other objects of great antiquity. Holyrood Palace, -which, with the exception of one wing containing Queen -Mary's apartments, in which her bed-room is furnished -just as it was when she occupied it, and the blood-stained -boards in the hall, where Rizzio was murdered, is plainly -yet to be seen. The Bank of Scotland, recently rebuilt; -the Scot Monument in Princess Street gardens, Heriot -and Donaldson's Hospital, the Post Office, the National -Gallery, the University and Museum of Science and Art, -and hotels of Princess Street and George's Street.</p> - -<p>But the New Town has two grand features about which -all are agreed. We need hardly say that these are Princess -Street and the Calton Hill. Princess Street extends -along the gardens, from Calton Hill to the West end, and -is the principal and most beautiful street in the city. -Near Calton Hill stands Burns' Monument, which is a -circular building, with columns and cupola; it has all the -outward appearance of a tomb, so that one is rather -startled to find it tenanted by a "canny Scot,"—a live -one,—who presides, with becoming sepulchral gravity, -over a two-penny show of miscellaneous trumpery connected -with Robert Burns.</p> - -<div class="image-center"> - <img src="images/pl-343.jpg" width="500" height="320" alt="pl-343"/> - <div class="caption"> - <p class="small">HOLYROOD PALACE AND BURN'S MONUMENT, EDINBURGH.</p> - </div> -</div> - -<p>In October I went to Dunoon, on a visit to an old -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_344" id="Page_344">{344}</a></span> -friend of mine, who was discharged soon after our arrival -from Jamaica. I went by the Caledonian Railway to -Glasgow, thence to Greenock, and by boat to Dunoon, -where I enjoyed myself in one of the most frequented -sea-bathing places and summer resorts in the West of -Scotland. It is situated in the south-west of Argyleshire, -on the west side of the Firth of Clyde, nine miles -west of Greenock. A village existed here from a very -early date, but a new, well-built town, with fine villas -around, has of late years sprung up. Dunoon Castle, of -which only a small portion now remains, stood on a conical -hill near the pier, and was once a Royal Palace and -strong fortress. The Argyle family once lived here, but -the building became a ruin over a century ago. After a -week's pleasure, fishing, bathing, and boating, I bid my -friend farewell; after thanking him much for his attention -and kindness to me during my visit, I left for Edinburgh -Castle, where I arrived at 6 p.m.</p> - -<p>The 2nd Battalion 6th Royal Regiment was stationed -in Edinburgh Castle over twelve months, when they got -the route for Aldershot camp on the 30th May, 1868. -Previous to the regiment leaving, I got my discharge on -the 26th May, 1868, after twenty-one years' service of -Her Majesty. I parted with the 6th Regiment and my -coat with the deepest sorrow, and lost my regimental home -and friends. I afterwards went to Dalkeith, a pensioner -and civilian, and was employed as mess-man to the Duke -of Buccleuch's regiment of militia, the "Duke's Canaries," -during their training. This town is about seven miles -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_345" id="Page_345">{345}</a></span> -from Edinburgh, stands near the junction of the North and -South Esk, and is a station of the North British Railway. -It chiefly consists of one main street. It is one of the largest -grain markets in Scotland, with a large and commodious -market hall. Dalkeith Palace, the chief seat of the Duke -of Buccleuch, is a large, square structure overhanging the -North Esk, amid fine grounds, in which the Esks flow, -and unite. The Duke's chapel stands within the palace -grounds. While in Dalkeith I received two encouraging -letters from Canada, one from my sister and the other -from my nephew, advising me to come to Canada.</p> - -<p>After the training was over, I sold out my furniture by -auction, and proceeded by the North British Railway to -Glasgow, where I took an intermediate passage for Canada -for my wife, daughter and myself, on board the steamship -"St. Andrew," Captain Scott, one of the Allan line, -which was to sail on Tuesday, 14th July, 1868, for Quebec. -This left us five days to wait in Glasgow, during which -time I took the opportunity of visiting many interesting -places in this industrial metropolis of Scotland, and one -of its largest and most important cities. It is situated on -the Clyde, in Lanarkshire. This river divides the north -from the south side of the city, and is crossed by five -bridges, much admired for their light and graceful architecture, -and suspension bridges besides. Below the bridges -ferry-boats ply at all hours. The city has somewhat -a smoky aspect, while many of the streets are continually -thronged with passengers, and noisy carts, cabs, and omnibuses. -In other respects it has many attractions.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_346" id="Page_346">{346}</a></span> -The houses facing the river stand well back, leaving -spacious thoroughfares on each side, and affording full -and noble views of the bridges, and of the harbour with -its steam funnels and forests of masts; most of the leading -streets run from east to west parallel with the river, -and almost all the streets are laid off in straight lines. -The houses are generally lofty, and built of freestone; -the floors of each tenement, being occupied by separate -families, are entered by a common stair.</p> - -<p>Many of the public buildings deserve notice. The -Cathedral, is one of the finest churches in Scotland. The -Royal Exchange on Queen street, several of the banks, -and many of the churches, likewise present fine specimens -of architecture in a variety of styles.</p> - -<p>The several equestrian statues, include those of William -III., of the Cross, the Duke of Wellington, in front -of the Royal Exchange, and Queen Victoria, in George's -Square. In the Green there is an obelisk 144 feet high, -to Nelson, forming a conspicuous object in the landscape. -In George's Square there is a statue of Sir Walter Scott, -a fine statue of Sir John Moore, a statue of James Watt, -and a statue of Sir Robert Peel. Charitable institutions -and benevolent societies abound. There are several -theatres and museums, and numerous halls in which -soirees and concerts are held nightly during the winter.</p> - -<p>The wealthier inhabitants migrate to the coast in shoals -during the summer, and cheap Saturday excursions by -river and rail, are extensively taken advantage of by the -working classes. To the north-west of the city is a -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_347" id="Page_347">{347}</a></span> -botanic garden, which is thrown open every summer during -the fair holidays, at a mere nominal charge. With the -additional attractions of the conservatory, large numbers -visit these gardens. There are several cemeteries in the -vicinity of which Sighthill is the most picturesque.</p> - -<p>There are besides, four public parks, one in each quarter -of the city, namely, the Green, occupying the level next -the Clyde at the east end; Queen's Park, finely situated -on a rising ground in the south; Kelvin Grove, rounding -the face of the hill, crowned with noble terraces, and -sloping down to the Kelvin, at the west end of the city. -Our time here was short; the ship sails at six o'clock this -evening.</p> - -<p>After paying the landlord at the George Hotel, we drove -to the Broomielaw, where the ship lay alongside the wharf, -when we went on board, and at 6.15 p.m. we sailed with -the tide. As we steamed out slowly among the shipping -in the harbour, the town of machinery and tall chimneys, -out of which interminable serpents of smoke trailed -themselves for ever and ever and never got uncoiled, -the Clyde, as the tide receded, looked like a river that -ran purple with ill-smelling dye, and vast piles of buildings -full of windows where there was a rattling and -trembling all day long, and where the piston of the steam -engine worked monotonously up and down in a state of -madness. It was a lovely evening in July. The sun -was throwing a hazy light across the landscape on either -side of the Clyde as we proceeded; where rich golden -harvest fields waved, and the perfume of a thousand -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_348" id="Page_348">{348}</a></span> -flowers was wafted by the zephyrs, which sighed among -the young leaves, and a thousand songsters sent forth -their melody in joyous chorus. As we passed Greenock -we could not help admiring the large rectangular buildings, -containing an endless number of windows garnished -with machinery, pipes puffing steam, and long chimneys -vomiting smoke. As we steamed down, so narrow and -crooked was the river in places that we ran aground at -7.15 p.m., when we had a delay until two tug steamers -came and pulled us off, when we continued our course -and cast anchor off the tail of the bank at 8.15 p.m. Here -we were delayed until 2 p.m. next day, when we weighed -anchor and steamed down the Firth of Clyde, with -one hundred and seventy passengers on board, westerly, -and a head wind, making eight knots an hour. The -night was lovely, the clear, bright moon threw a silvery -light athwart the face of the deep glistening waters, as -our ship dashed onwards, reaching Kingstown at 10 a.m. -next day, where we cast anchor and witnessed a regatta. -The harbour was so crowded with yachts that we had to -anchor at its mouth.</p> - -<p>At 11 a.m. we weighed anchor again and were piloted -outside of Howth. A head wind; passed the Isle of Man -and Calf-lights at 4 p.m., cast the log at 5 p.m., ship -making nine knots; arrived at Moville in Lough Foyle at -5 a.m. on 17th, where we took more passengers on board, -and steamed out at 11.30 a.m., passed Instrahull lighthouse -at 2 p.m., head wind, heavy Atlantic swells, most -of the passengers got sea sick, passed Tony Island at 5.45 -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_349" id="Page_349">{349}</a></span> -p.m., three absent from supper with sea sickness; 18th, -Saturday, rough sea, head wind, most of the passengers -sea sick; 19th, Sunday, Divine service at 10 a.m., weather -fine, head wind, distance made 157 miles in 24 hours; -20th, Monday, passengers getting over sea sickness, -although the ship rolls and pitches a good deal, distance -made 162 miles; 21st, Tuesday, Lat. 54° 24', Long. 28° 00', -distance 203 miles, fine weather, stiff breeze; 22nd, -Wednesday, Lat. 53° 18', Long. 32° 48', distance made 184 -miles. At 4 p.m. the wind changed, when all the canvas -that could be put on was hoisted, and we ran at 11½ -knots during the night; 23rd, Thursday, head wind, and -a cold, damp, thick, heavy fog covered the broad Atlantic, -distance 232 miles, Lat. 50° 16', Long. 42° 50', 5 p.m., -wind changed, ship making 10 knots, stiff breeze from -the North; 25th, Saturday, fair wind, making 10½ knots, -10.30 a.m., ten large icebergs in view, at 2 p.m. we saw -two large whales close to the ship; 26th, Sunday, Lat. -46° 25', Long. 53° 42', distance 231 miles, soundings 50 -fathoms, wind favourable, cold, wet, and miserable -weather, at midnight sighted St. Peter's light; 27th, -Monday, Lat. 47° 18', Long. 58° 18', distance made 206 -miles, at 10 a.m. sighted Cape Ray. Newfoundland coast -looked very bare with small trees and underwood. Passed -Port Basque at 4.30 p.m. This small village is the telegraph -station of the Atlantic cable from Ireland, <i>via</i> -Heart's Content, Newfoundland, from thence to Cape -Breton on to Nova Scotia and Canada. The island looked -cold and barren, with heaps of snow on several of the -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_350" id="Page_350">{350}</a></span> -hills, entered the Gulf of St. Lawrence at 6.30 p.m., steering -North, light head wind, our ship runs onward very -smoothly, making 8½ knots, all hands over sea sickness -and in good spirits, with good appetites, passed the bark -<i>Arctic</i> at 6.45 p.m., homeward bound.</p> - -<p>The water seems like a mirror, and the night fine, -crossing the Gulf of St. Lawrence; 28th, Tuesday, -morning beautiful, came in sight of the Island of Anticosti -at 6 a.m., and at 11 a.m. sighted the coast of Gaspé, -passed Cape Rozier at 4 p.m., night fine, not a ripple on -the face of the deep; 29th, Wednesday, steamed along -the coast of Lower Canada, but a thick fog came on -which caused much delay, at 10.30 a.m, we reached -"Father Point," where we fired a gun for a pilot to come -on board, when we were answered in the thick fog by -one from the pilot, whose boat we had passed some distance, -the fog being so thick we did not see him. However, -after he answered we lay too and took him on -board at 11.20 a.m., then steamed forward at 10 knots, -coasting along the bank of the river, where we had a -view now and then, as the fog cleared, of small villages -along the coast. The houses were all white and built of -wood; the land for the most part appeared covered with -thick forests, but near the villages were some spots -cleared and under cultivation, which were green with -either grass or crops, but owing to the fog we could not -well make out the coast, however, now and then the fog -cleared away for a short time as it were to let us have a -bird's-eye view of the country on either side of us. The -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_351" id="Page_351">{351}</a></span> -pilot brought on board some newspapers which we -amused ourselves reading while the fog lasted. Passed -Cacouna at 5.30 p.m., it is a watering place on the banks -of the St. Lawrence, about 80 miles from Quebec; it appears -a pretty place with one church which we could see -plainly. Passed the Brandy Pots at 5.45 p.m., and River -Du Loup at the opposite side, at the same time. This -village is a French settlement, and is the terminus of the -Grand Trunk Railway, distance made 250 miles.</p> - -<p>At eleven a.m. we weighed anchor again and proceeded -on our way, and after a pleasant voyage of 15 days, -arrived at Quebec, on the 30th of July.</p> - -<p>On comparing chronometers, we found a difference in -the time between Quebec and Greenwich of 5h. 44m. 49s.</p> - -<p>From here we took the express train to Montreal, and -put up at the Albion Hotel. The scenery along the -line of the railway seemed to me so strange; the country -was covered with wood; wherever I looked there was -wood—everything seemed wooden.</p> - -<p>At 8 o'clock next morning we took the train for that -ancient limestone-fortified City of Kingston—the city of -the Thousand Isles—where we arrived at 2 p.m., and -drove in a cab to the Anglo-American Hotel where we -stayed till next day, at 3 p.m., when we took the steamer -"Bay of Quinté" for Picton. The scenery along the -beautiful Bay of Quinté, from Kingston to Picton, was -delightful. I stayed on deck during the evening, enchanted -with the wild landscape and picturesque scenery, -arriving at Picton at 8 p.m., when we rode in Mrs. Blanchard's -'bus up to my sister's.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_352" id="Page_352">{352}</a></span> -I visited my friends for a month when I went steward -of Ontario College, where I stayed for twelve months, -when I bought a property on Main Street; here I went -into the grocery business, during which time I messed the -16th Battalion County Prince Edward Volunteers, and -the summer following I messed the officers at Picton and -again at Kingston in 1871.</p> - -<p>The same year I applied to the Council at Picton for a -license—which was granted—for my house, which I named -the "Victoria Hotel," where I carried on business as a -hotel-keeper until the year 1878, when I sold the hotel -through the effects of the Dunkin Act, after laying out a -large sum of money in enlarging and building an addition -to the house, also stables and sheds. For two or -three years previous to voting on the Dunkin Bill, a few -fanatics—in order to get their names before the public as -great temperance advocates, not knowing of anything -better to preach about, like the Turkish Dervishes, tried -to make people believe that they were all saints and -everybody else sinners; although the temperance saints -generally had a bottle in the garret or the cellar which -they used when not observed.</p> - -<p>They held meetings all over the county, and any person -who did not join them had no chance of being elected -to any public office. Men who were ambitious were obliged -to attend their meetings in order to gain popularity, -and dare not go into an hotel. An honest, straightforward, -truthful man, unless he agreed with them, had a poor -chance of being elected to any office. At any rate, the -Dunkin side got strong enough to carry the election. -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_353" id="Page_353">{353}</a></span> -Most of those who were against it would not vote through -fear of their neighbours, they said it made little difference -to them whether there was license or not. Through this -sort of intimidation the vote was carried by the Dunkinites -and became law in the county. At the end of twelve -months another vote was taken to repeal it, when the -Dunkinites again carried the election, owing to several -local orators who stood up where the Dunkinites held -meetings throughout the country and preached against its -repeal. These men, of course, gained popularity with the -temperance party for the time being. But like the house -that was built on the sand, "the rain came and the wind -blew and beat on that house and great was the fall thereof, -because it was built on the sand." And now those -who voted for the Dunkin Bill want to repeal it, seeing -that it not only increases the number of places that sell -liquor privately in the town, but that it deprives the -county of a very large revenue. Notwithstanding that -the Dunkin Act was superseded by the Crooks' Act, and, -knowing that it was <i>ultra vires</i>, they tried to enforce it. -Several cases of selling liquor contrary to the Dunkin -Act were brought before the magistrates and fines inflicted; -at last, seeing that it was not constitutional, they -gave up trying any more. But when a man is to be -hanged there is always a hangman to be found; so it was -with the Dunkin Act, there was one found to try the -cases, when almost invariably fines or imprisonment were -inflicted; of the latter several hotel-keepers had a foretaste.</p> - -<p>Knowing that these convictions were bad, they were -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_354" id="Page_354">{354}</a></span> -appealed to a higher tribunal. There was one thing that -we have got cause to be thankful to the government for, -and that is for selecting and appointing just, learned and -impartial judges, who know neither friend nor partisan -when they sit on the tribunal to mete out justice and -judgment, according to the law of the land. When these -appeal cases came before the learned and just Judge of -the County of Prince Edward, they were all quashed.</p> - -<p class="gap-above center small">LINES ON PICTON, BAY OF QUINTE.</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse">Fair Picton! what a blissful spot,</div> - <div class="verse">Where peace and happiness had been my lot,</div> - <div class="verse">But the Dunkin fanatics disturbed my home,</div> - <div class="verse">And sent me from you, far to roam.</div> - </div> - - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse">Where golden corn waves in the breeze,</div> - <div class="verse">And sugar flows from maple trees,</div> - <div class="verse">And here in winter, on the plains of snow,</div> - <div class="verse">Gay dressed parties out a-sleighing go.</div> - </div> - - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse">With noble churches of much renown,</div> - <div class="verse">Thy shady cemetery outside the town,</div> - <div class="verse">Where friends do go, when from labour free,</div> - <div class="verse">To dress the grave beneath the shady tree.</div> - </div> - - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse">Where marble monuments lift up from grass,</div> - <div class="verse">Which mark the spot to strangers as they pass.</div> - <div class="verse">Where noble souls and friends so dear,</div> - <div class="verse">Having left this life, are sleeping quietly here.</div> - </div> - -</div> -</div> - -<div class="right2 small smcap">T. Faughnan.</div> - -<p class="gap-above">After I sold out I thought I would not go into hotel -business again, but I found it so dull, I leased the Anglo-American -Hotel in Kingston, which, however I again relinquished -in February last, and am now living in Kingston.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_355" id="Page_355">{355}</a></span> -At about 4 p.m. on the 29th May, 1879, His Excellency -the Right Honourable the Marquis of Lorne and -his Royal Consort, Princess Louise, arrived at Kingston, -for the purpose of laying the corner-stone of the Queen's -College, having been invited for that purpose by Dr. -Grant, the Principal of the Queen's University.</p> - -<p>On arrival, the Royal guests were received by the corporation -and other city dignitaries, professors, and officers -of the Royal Military College. A Royal salute was fired -from Fort Henry. After the singing of "God save the -Queen," by over one thousand little school children, the -Mayor read the address of welcome to the Royal guests, -which was graciously responded to by His Excellency in -a loud, clear, and distinct voice. After the address another -song was sung by the children, led by Mr. Rackett, Bandmaster -Dominion Artillery, on the cornet; after which -a procession was formed, and the Vice-regal party -entered their carriage, which was drawn by four horses, -with postillions. They moved off amid loud cheering from -the people, escorted by a troop of cavalry commanded by -Colonel Duff, with the corporation and members of the -different societies in carriages. Crowds of people lined -the streets, who cheered most heartily, as the Royal visitors -proceeded along the route. The streets were beautifully -decorated with splendid arches, appropriate mottoes, -and evergreens. The Princess looked very much pleased, -and bowed most graciously to the delighted crowd. The -line of procession was kept by the 14th P. W. O. Rifles, -commanded by Major E. H. Smythe. As His Excellency -and the Princess alighted from their carriage at Mr. Geo. -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_356" id="Page_356">{356}</a></span> -A. Kirkpatrick's house, where they were guests, the people -again cheered and shouted, when the Princess and -Marquis most graciously acknowledged the salutations. -Major and Mrs. De Winton were staying at Mr. Stafford -Kirkpatrick's. The Royal reception passed off to the entire -satisfaction of all concerned, there being nothing to -mar the proceedings.</p> - -<p>In the evening His Excellency and the Princess held a -drawing room in the City Hall, which was beautifully illuminated -and fitted up with swords and bayonets forming -most exquisite designs and mottoes tastefully arranged -by the gunners of "A" Battery Dominion Artillery.</p> - -<p>The Cadets from the Royal Military College, commanded -by Major Ridout, and headed by "A" Battery -band, formed the guard of honour. About 9.30 His Excellency -and Her Royal Highness Princess Louise arrived -and were greeted by a royal salute. Next day at 11.30 -a.m., His Excellency and H.R.H. Princess Louise laid the -corner stones on each side of the front entrance of the -Queen's College, and planted two trees, one of maple and -the other of birch, in front of the entrance to the college, -after which the degree of LL.D. was conferred on His -Excellency by the Chancellor, who delivered to him the -diploma, which was a beautiful work of art being engrossed -on parchment, in Indian ink and gold, with Royal -Arms, and the crest of the noble House of Argyle within -a chaste and elaborate border of the scenery, views, and -buildings of the city.</p> - -<p>At 3 p.m. His Excellency, the Princess and suite, accompanied -by Mr. George A. Kirkpatrick, visited the Penitentiary. -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_357" id="Page_357">{357}</a></span> -On arrival there, His Excellency and Her Royal -Highness were received by Mr. Creighton, the Warden, -who conducted the distinguished party through the institution, -which was tastefully decorated with a handsome -arch, on the top of which was a large and tastefully made -crown of evergreens, with the Royal Arms beneath, and a -large Union Jack floating from the tower. In the evening -His Excellency and Her Royal Highness attended a concert -at the Opera House. Mr. George A. Kirkpatrick, M.P., -and Mrs. James, were honoured with seats in the Vice-Regal -boxes.</p> - -<p>On Saturday, His Excellency and Her Royal Highness -visited the different schools and hospitals. In the afternoon -they visited the Royal Military College, where the -troops, consisting of the Cadets, "A" Battery, Dominion -Artillery, and the 14th Prince of Wales Own Rifles, commanded -by Colonel Kerr, were formed in line, facing the -city, and commanded by Colonel Hewett, R. E., the commandant. -At 3 p.m., His Excellency, the Princess and -suite, accompanied by Sir E. S. Smyth and staff, arrived -on the ground, escorted by a troop of cavalry. They were -received with a Royal salute, after which His Excellency, -attended by General E. Smyth, Colonel Van Straubenzie, -Colonel Hewett, Colonel Irwin, Colonel Wolsley and others -of the staff, inspected the troops. The Brigade then -marched past, and afterwards were put through a sham -fight, changing front to the left, Captain W. C. Sand's -company of the Rifles covering the advance in skirmishing -order, which Her Royal Highness seemed to enjoy -very much. The review being over, His Excellency, the -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_358" id="Page_358">{358}</a></span> -Princess and suite, accompanied by Colonel Hewett and -other officers, made a tour of inspection through the College -and afterwards Her Royal Highness the Princess -Louise distributed prizes to the Cadets.</p> - -<p>On Sunday, the Vice-Regal party attended Divine Service -at St. George's Cathedral. The Service was read by -the Very Rev. the Dean of Ontario, and the Lessons by -the Rev. H. Wilson. A most eloquent and impressive -sermon was preached by the Very Rev. the Dean of Ontario, -who took his text from St. John, chap. 12, verse, 32. -His Excellency, accompanied by Mr. George A. Kirkpatrick, -M.P., and Captain Harbord, A.D.C., attending evening -service at St. Andrew's Church. The sermon was preached -by the Rev. G. M. Grant, D.D.</p> - -<p>On Monday, His Excellency, the Princess and suite, -took a trip down the river, accompanied by Sir Richard -Cartwright, Principal, and Mrs. Grant, Colonel and Mrs. -Hewett, Mr. and Mrs. Gun, Colonel Irwin, Colonel Cotton, -Colonel and Mrs. Van Straubenzie, the Misses Montalbert, -Mrs. James, Mr. G. A. Kirkpatrick, M.P., Major Gildersleeve -and others. On arrival at Gananoque, the Field -Battery, under the command of Major Mackenzie, fired a -Royal salute. Before the boat left, the Rev. Mr. George -Taylor, Major Mackenzie, Mr D. Ford Jones, M.P., went -on board and were introduced to His Excellency. The -return trip was made by the American Channel, reaching -the city about 6 p.m., when they drove to the residence -of Mr. George A. Kirkpatrick, M.P.</p> - -<p>The following morning, about 5 o'clock, the Vice-Regal -party left Kingston by the steamer "Spartan," <i>en route</i> for -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_359" id="Page_359">{359}</a></span> -Quebec. On their departure a Royal salute was fired from -Fort Henry. "A" Battery, Dominion Artillery, under the -command of Lieutenant-Colonel Cotton, furnished a guard -of honour. As the steamer moved from the wharf, the -crowd cheered and shouted, to which His Excellency and -H.R.H. the Princess Louise most graciously bowed their -acknowledgments, and seemed delighted with their -reception at Kingston.</p> - -<p><i>Long live His Excellency the Governor-General, and -H. R. Highness the Princess Louise!</i></p> - -<p class="gap-above center">LINES ON THE OCCASION OF THE MARQUIS OF LORNE<br /> - <span class="small">AND THE PRINCESS LOUISE VISITING KINGSTON.</span></p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse">Of a Royal Princess we now can boast,</div> - <div class="verse">And drink a health and loyal toast</div> - <div class="verse">To <span class="smcap">Queen Victoria</span>, whom God may spare,</div> - <div class="verse">Who honoured Canada with her daughter fair.</div> - </div> - - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse">From deceitful enemies or their foes,</div> - <div class="verse">May God the Royal couple keep in sweet repose;</div> - <div class="verse">And let nations see that this fair land,</div> - <div class="verse">Can uphold Royalty with heart and hand.</div> - </div> - - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse">Kingston, fair city of the thousand isles,</div> - <div class="verse">Where the noble St. Lawrence so gently smiles;</div> - <div class="verse">With its Royal Military College of much renown,</div> - <div class="verse">And the grand old buildings of this ancient town.</div> - </div> - - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse">Though this city much of limestone smells,</div> - <div class="verse">There are British hearts that ever swell,</div> - <div class="verse">To respond to Royalty and one so fair,</div> - <div class="verse">And to the Princess Louise who visited there.</div> - </div> - - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse">Was e'er such honour paid to Kingston before,</div> - <div class="verse">As a Princess and Marquis inside their door?</div> - <div class="verse"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_360" id="Page_360">{360}</a></span></div> - <div class="verse">The honour paid her, was much deserved,</div> - <div class="verse">For she stood true and loyal when others swerved.</div> - </div> - - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse">With the noble Marquis and the fair Louise,</div> - <div class="verse">The loyal Kingstonians were much pleased;</div> - <div class="verse">At their reception Mayor Gildersleeve did preside,</div> - <div class="verse">With the city aldermen on either side.</div> - </div> - - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse">To give a loyal welcome to those we love so dear,</div> - <div class="verse">And show our loyalty in old Kingston here,</div> - <div class="verse">For that we Kingstonians all are sworn,</div> - <div class="verse">To stand together,—aye, for Lorne!</div> - </div> - -</div> -</div> - -<div class="right2 small smcap">T. Faughnan.</div> - -<p class="gap-above">So now here at the old limestone City of Kingston, I -must give my gentle reader the parting hand of fellowship. -We have had a long, and I hope interesting journey, -from my enlistment to my discharge. I trust not an -unprofitable one. We have travelled over the ground of -battle-scenes, of blood, carnage and slaughter; stood on -the hoary ruins of palaces and temples; we have seen -Egypt, and that great and terrible desert.</p> - -<p>Our time together has passed pleasantly; we part, I -trust, mutual friends, and so ends the story of an old soldier, -who only asks your pardon for the many defects and -weakness in his simple narrative, and who also hopes it -may amuse the young and old, and show them that a -steady, sober and well-conducted man will ever get on -well and be happy in the service of Her Most Gracious -Majesty: whom that God may long preserve, is the prayer -of her humble and dutiful pensioner.</p> - -<div class="right2">THOMAS FAUGHNAN.</div> - -<div class="small left1"><span class="smcap">Kingston Ont.</span>, July 1, 1879.</div> - - - - - - - - -<pre> - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Stirring Incidents In The Life of a -British Soldier, by Thomas Faughnan - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK STIRRING INCIDENTS--BRITISH SOLDIER *** - -***** This file should be named 51595-h.htm or 51595-h.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/5/1/5/9/51595/ - -Produced by Brian Coe, Chris Pinfield, and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive/Canadian Libraries) - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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