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diff --git a/old/51595-0.txt b/old/51595-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index a7c3ee4..0000000 --- a/old/51595-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9164 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of Stirring Incidents In The Life of a British -Soldier, by Thomas Faughnan - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - -Title: Stirring Incidents In The Life of a British Soldier - -Author: Thomas Faughnan - -Release Date: March 29, 2016 [EBook #51595] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK STIRRING INCIDENTS--BRITISH SOLDIER *** - - - - -Produced by Brian Coe, Chris Pinfield, and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive/Canadian Libraries) - - - - - - - - [Illustration: - Yours faithfully, - Thomas Faughnan.] - - - - -STIRRING INCIDENTS - -IN THE LIFE OF - -A BRITISH SOLDIER. - -An Autobiography. - -BY - -THOMAS FAUGHNAN, - -_Late Colour-Sergeant, 2nd Battalion, 6th Royal Regiment_. - -"Faithful unto Death." - -THIRD EDITION. - - - TORONTO: - HUNTER, ROSE AND COMPANY. - 1881. - - -Entered according to the Act of the Parliament of Canada, in the year -one thousand eight hundred and seventy-nine, by THOMAS FAUGHNAN, in the -office of the Minister of Agriculture. - - - PRINTED AND BOUND BY - HUNTER, ROSE & CO., - TORONTO. - - - - -TO HIS EXCELLENCY - -The Right Honourable the Marquis of Lorne, - -K.T., G.C.M.G., - -GOVERNOR-GENERAL OF THE DOMINION OF CANADA, - -THIS STORY - -Of a British Soldier's Life - -IS, BY SPECIAL PERMISSION, RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED, - -BY HIS HUMBLE AND OBEDIENT SERVANT, - -THOMAS FAUGHNAN. - - - - -PREFACE. - - -In laying the history of my life and travels before the public, I deem -it right to state that I am past the middle age; this I feel compelled -to mention, because it is my opinion that no man should write a history -of himself until he has set foot upon the border land where the past and -the future begin to blend. When the past has receded so far that he can -behold it as in a picture, and his share in it as the history of a -soldier who has fought for his Queen and country, and had many narrow -escapes of death. But, thank God, I have been spared thus far to confess -my faults, and my good deeds look miserably poor in my own eyes; indeed, -I would no more claim a reward for them than expect a captain's -commission. - -The countries and incidents described in this work will be found I -trust, interesting to all classes of persons. The history of a soldier's -life and travels is always an entertaining and instructive one. Many -books on the lives of officers have been written by learned men -containing much information, and highly useful to the scholar, but they -do not interest the mass of common readers. Others, again, pass so -rapidly from place to place, and are so general in their description, -the reader gets but very imperfect ideas from reading them. These -extremes the writer has endeavoured to avoid. It has been my object to -select the most important events of my life, and to describe them in a -plain and familiar style. I have not indulged in learned dissertations, -my common, old-fashioned Irish school education being too limited to -give that classical finish to the work which a learned writer would have -done. Indeed, it has not been my intention to write a book for the -learned or critical, but to give to the public a volume written in a -homely style, by a non-commissioned officer, to instruct and interest -the family and the common reader, as well as my comrades. If, while -dilating on the exploits of my comrades in arms, I have omitted to pay -proper respect to gallant foes, it is because I know that history will -supply the deficiency. Time will gild with glory a Trojan defence, fitly -closed by a successful retreat across a burning bridge, under a heavy -fire. But come along, dear reader, and try whether in my first chapter I -cannot be a boy again, in such a way that my reader will gladly linger a -little in the meadows of childhood, ere we pass to riper years and -stirring battle-fields. - - - - -CONTENTS. - - -CHAPTER I. - PAGE - Education—My Schoolmaster—School House—My Father, Mother, - Sisters—Our House 17 - - -CHAPTER II. - - River Shannon—Derry Carne—Our Farm—My Sisters Get Married— - Cave—Still House—Still and Worm—Process—Interior—Revenue - Police—Irish Wake—Funeral 24 - - -CHAPTER III. - - Advanced School—State of the Country—Emigration—Cause of - Poverty—Irish Landlords—Potato Crop—Dishonest Agents— - Election—Politics—My Sister Emigrates—I Enlist 29 - - -CHAPTER IV. - - Swearing In—March to Dublin—Beggars' Bush Barrack—Rations— - The City—Embarkation—The Ship—The Voyage—Liverpool—Train - to London—Billets—Canterbury—Join the 17th Regiment 34 - - -CHAPTER V. - - Medical Examination—Receive My Kit—Drill, Manual and Platoon - Exercise—Dismissed Drill—Visit the City—Description—Route— - The March 43 - - -CHAPTER VI. - - Arrival at Dover—First Guard—The Dead House—Ghost—The - Heights—Shaft—Fortifications—Marching Out—Chartist Riots— - Train to London—Departure—Osborne House—Main Dock—Route - to Chatham—Siege—Sham Fight 50 - - -CHAPTER VII. - - Route to Canterbury—The March—Arrival—Chatham—Dock-yard— - Furlough to London—That Great City—Join my Company—Sheerness— - The Dock-yard—Get Married—Route to Weedon—Route to Ireland 59 - - -CHAPTER VIII. - - Liverpool—Embark for Dublin—The Voyage—Arrival—March—The - Train—The March to Castlebar—Arrival—Election—Route to - Galway 70 - - -CHAPTER IX. - - The March—Galway—Captain Bourchier—Detachment—Regatta—Row - with the Police—Route to Galway—Major Bourchier exchanges— - Captain Croker—Claddagh—Attend a Camp Meeting—The City of - Galway—Theatre—Route to Dublin 82 - - -CHAPTER X. - - The March—Rail to Dublin—Arrival—Garrison Duty—Castle Guard— - The Old Man's Hospital—Divine Service—Tent-Pitching—Death - of the "Iron Duke"—The Funeral—The Queen Visits Dublin— - Buildings and Institutions—The Route 93 - - -CHAPTER XI. - - Arrival at Templemore—The Route to Cork—Embarkation for - Gibraltar—Queenstown—The Voyage—Storm at Sea—Gibraltar 106 - - -CHAPTER XII. - - The Landing—Barrack—Garrison Duty—Old North Front—Smuggling— - Market—Queen's Birth-Day—The Dinner—Speeches—The Route—The - March—Embarkation for the Crimea—The Parting—The Voyage— - Arrival at Malta 121 - - -CHAPTER XIII. - - Maltese—Departure—A Captain Commits Suicide—The Funeral— - Small-Pox—Return—Resumed the Voyage—Grecian Arches— - Dardanelles—Gallipoli—Turkish Sentries—Constantinople— - Turkish Ladies—The Bosphorus—Voyage across the - Euxine—Arrival 134 - - -CHAPTER XIV. - - Disembarkation—First Bivouac—The March—Arrival—Sebastopol— - The Trenches—First Man Wounded—Return to Camp—An Alarm— - Lord Raglan—Sortie—Foraging—The Old Bridge—Col. Cole—The - Siege 149 - - -CHAPTER XV. - - March to Balaklava—Return—Men go Bare-footed—Snow five feet - deep—Long Boats—Hard Frost—Cavalry Division—Burial Ground— - Solitary Procession—Men Frozen—I build a Hut—Green Coffee— - Wintry Appearance—Dead Horses—63rd Regiment—Carrying - Provisions—French Sick 161 - - -CHAPTER XVI. - - Trenches—Canal of Mud—Russian New Year—Heavy Fire—On Sentry— - The Sortie—Old Brown Bess—Sortie—Arrival in Camp—New Style of - Candle—Flint and Steel—Making Coffee—Heavy Snow—No Fire—Warm - Clothing—Shot and Shell 171 - - -CHAPTER XVII. - - The Railway—Lord Raglan—Cossacks—The Navvies—Russian - Deserters—The Railway 182 - - -CHAPTER XVIII. - - St. Patrick's Day—Rifle Pits—Fourth Division—French Loss— - The Siege—General Attack—Flag of Truce—Burying the Dead— - Wooden Huts—Turkish Troops—Divine Service 193 - - -CHAPTER XIX. - - Bombardment—Tents blown down—Siege—Lieut. Williams—Wounded— - Sailors—Go to Hospital—Description—Sardinians—Discharged - from Hospital—Attack on Quarries—Flag of Truce—Burying - the Dead 203 - - -CHAPTER XX. - - Bombardment—The Assault—Great Redan—The Battle—Balaklava— - Hospital—Miss Nightingale—Nurses—Promoted—Discharged from - Hospital—Death of Lord Raglan 214 - - -CHAPTER XXI. - - Captain Colthurst—Siege—Bombardment—Assault—Redan—The - Battle—8th September—The Evacuation—Russians—British in - Sebastopol 228 - - -CHAPTER XXII. - - Expedition to Kinburn—The Voyage—Odessa—Landing—Cutting - Trenches—Bombardment—The White Flag—Capitulation—The - Prisoners—_Reconnaissance_—The March—Village—Bivouac—March— - A Village—Pigs and Geese—Departure—The Fleet—Return—Sir - W. Codrington—Russian Spy 241 - - -CHAPTER XXIII. - - Armistice—Cessation of Hostilities—Exchange of Coins—Heir - to French Imperial Throne—Treaty of Peace—Invitations—Grand - Review—Removal of the Army—Embarkation—The Voyage—Ship on - Fire—Arrival at Malta—Join the Reserve Battalion—Proceed to - Alexandria—The Voyage—Arrival—Visit Places of Renown—Visit - Cairo—The Nile—Arrival—The City—Bazaars 253 - - -CHAPTER XXIV. - - The Pyramids—Crossing the Nile—Island of Roda—Ark of - Bulrushes—Visit Cheops—Heliopolis—Palace of Shoobra—Palm - Groves—The Citadel—Joseph's Well—Dervishes—Return 266 - - -CHAPTER XXV. - - The Hospital—Mohammedan Sabbath—Departure—The Voyage—Malta— - Departure—Voyage for England—Portsmouth—Voyage to Dublin— - Arrival at Limerick—The 6th Royal Regiment—Promoted—Aldershot— - Route for Gibraltar—The Voyage 281 - - -CHAPTER XXVI. - - Arrival—Spanish Bull-fights—Lieut. Jackson—Change Quarters— - The Rock—Monkeys—Caves—Gardens—War in Algiers—Corfu—Voyage— - Arrival—Santa Maria—Desertion—The March—Greeks 296 - - -CHAPTER XXVII. - - Sir Henry Storks—Albania—Visit Nicropolis—The Brigand Chief— - Turkish Baths—Coffee Houses—Turkish Ladies' Costume— - Sergeants' Ball—The Route—Corfu—Route—West Indies—The - Voyage—The Burning Mountain—Gibraltar—Madeira—Teneriffe— - Santa Cruz—Cape de Verde Islands—Trinidad—Jamaica 309 - - -CHAPTER XXVIII. - - Jamaica—The Exhibition—Market—Rebellion—the Commission—Col. - Hobbs—The Voyage—Route—Voyage—Queen's Birth-day—Edinburgh— - Calton Hill—Tolbooth—Queen Mary's Room—Dunoon—Discharged— - Dalkeith—Glasgow—Embark for Canada—The Voyage—Arrival— - Montreal—Kingston—Picton—The Dunkin Bill—Marquis of Lorne 327 - - - - -TESTIMONIALS TO THE WRITER. - - - EDINBURGH CASTLE, _April 26th, 1868_. - -I have great pleasure in stating that I have known Sergeant Thomas -Faughnan for about nine years, and during most of that period he was Pay -and Colour-Sergt. of my Company. He was also Sergt.-Major of a -Detachment of which I had command, and I cannot say too much in his -favour, either as a soldier or as a trustworthy person. - -He always gave me the greatest satisfaction, in the position he was -placed; both by his high sense of discipline, as well as his entire -knowledge of drill, and he leaves the Regiment with the respect of every -one. - - (Signed) JOHN E. TEWART, - _Captain, 2nd Batt., 6th Royal Regiment._ - [TRUE COPY.] - - -Sergeant Faughnan was discharged from the 2nd Battalion, 6th Foot, in -Edinburgh, May, 1868, after twenty-one years' service, with an excellent -character, I have pleasure in stating that I consider him a most honest, -trustworthy, respectable man; for many years he held positions of much -responsibility. - - (Signed) JOHN ELKINGTON, - _Colonel Commd'g 2nd Batt., 6th Royal Regiment_. - ALDERSHOT CAMP, _July 10th, 1868_. - [TRUE COPY.] - - - ALDERSHOT CAMP, _July 12th, 1868_. - -I have known Sergeant Faughnan for the last five years, in the 2nd Batt. -6th Regiment, and can say that he has behaved himself very well in every -way as a soldier. He was an honest, willing and sober man; he was also -Mess Sergeant for several years, and gave every satisfaction, and -deserves to get on in the world, and I much wish he may do so. - - (Signed) SPENCER FIELD, - _Captain, 2nd Batt., 6th Royal Regiment_. - [TRUE COPY.] - - -I have known Sergeant Thomas Faughnan, late Sergeant in the 2nd -Battalion, 6th Regiment, for about ten years, during which time he -served as Pay and Colour-Sergeant to a Company with great satisfaction -to the Captains; also as Sergeant-Major to a Detachment, in which -position, by his steady conduct and fair knowledge of drill, he -commanded the respect of his superiors. He has since served as Mess and -Wine Sergeant to the Battalion, and has been sober and attentive to -those duties. I can recommend him as a general useful Non Commissioned -officer. - - (Signed) HENRY KITCHENER, - _Lieut, and Adjt. 2nd Battalion, 6th Foot_. - EDINBURGH CASTLE, 25, 4, '68. - [TRUE COPY.] - - -I have known Sergeant Faughnan—now taking his discharge from the 6th -Regiment, with a pension, after twenty one years' service—since the -year 1860, and have served with him in Gibraltar, the Ionian Islands, -and the West Indies. Up to 1865 he was a Colour-Sergeant of the -Regiment, and as such was very much respected. About the middle of the -year he became Sergeant of the Officers' Mess, in which position he -remained up to the departure of the Regiment from Edinburgh, on the 22nd -May, 1868. He was for about two years caterer of the said Mess, and in -addition had charge of all wines, ale, &c. Thousands of pounds must have -passed through his hands, for every portion of which he has had to -account, and his remaining up to the last moment in the Mess is a proof -of his having done so most satisfactorily. I, myself, have a very high -opinion of Sergeant Faughnan for his straightforwardness, honesty, -sobriety, ability, and steady good conduct. I am sure his loss will be -much felt in the 6th Regiment. - - (Signed) L. B. HOLE, - _Captain, 2nd Batt., 6th Royal Regiment_. - [TRUE COPY.] - - -I have known Sergeant T. Faughnan for the last seven years, and have -always found him honest, sober, quiet and obliging. He is a good -accountant, and was employed in charge of the Mess, 2nd Batt., 6th -Regiment for some time, and gave every satisfaction. He was also a -Colour-Sergeant and had charge and payment of a Company for some time, -and resigned his colours to go to the Mess. - - (Signed) W. G. ANNESLEY, - _Captain, 2nd Batt. 6th Royal Regiment._ - ALDERSHOT CAMP, _8th June, 1868_. - [TRUE COPY.] - - - - -[Illustration] - - STIRRING INCIDENTS - IN THE LIFE OF - A BRITISH SOLDIER - - - - -CHAPTER I. - - EDUCATION—MY SCHOOLMASTER—SCHOOL HOUSE—MY FATHER, MOTHER, - SISTERS—OUR HOUSE. - - -I have for some time been trying to think how far back my memory could -go; but, as far as I can judge, the earliest definite recollection I -have is the discovery of how I played the truant, in stopping on the -way-side playing pitch and toss, instead of going to school; and how I -cut all the buttons of my jacket and trowsers for the purpose of -gambling with other boys. After losing all my buttons, I had to pin my -jacket to my trousers. In Ireland in those days, boys had to be content -with gambling for buttons instead of coppers as now-a-days. I was late -for school, and was rather remarkable, going in with my trousers and -jacket fastened together with pins. I remember well the master called me -over to him. Oh! I will never forget his spiteful countenance, and how -he showed his ivories. My heart beat fast. I thought I was very wicked, -and fright made my heart jump to my mouth. I had to stand my trial. -Master: "Well, boy, what kept you late for school?" Before I had time to -answer, "How came the buttons off your clothes; tell me straightforward -at once, who cut them off, and what became of them? Hold up your head -and speak out." "I—I—I—cut them off, sir, to play with the boys, and -they won my buttons." "O, ho! you have been gambling, have you? I will -teach you to cut the buttons off your clothes to gamble. Go, stand in -that corner until I am through with the class." - -"Pat Cannon, take this knife, go out and cut a strong birch, this one I -have is nearly worn out. I want a strong one for this youth." - -While I was standing in the corner, one of the boys, or, as we used to -call them, "gossoons," stole over to me and gave me a big shawl-pin, -saying: "Stick this in the boy's neck who takes you on his back." I took -the pin as I was told, and nerved myself up for the occasion. - -"Dan McLaughlin, take Thomas Faughnan on your back." - -I was brought up in due form. "Take off your jacket; get on Dan -McLaughlin's back." - -No sooner had I got on his back, and before the master had time to -administer the first stroke of the birch, than I sunk the big pin into -the boy's neck. He shouted at the top of his voice, yelling as if he had -been stabbed with a knife, and fell over the other boys, causing great -commotion. In the uproar and confusion I made my escape out of the -school, jacket in hand. The master stood in a state of amazement. It -took him quite a while to restore order among the boys. I waited outside -until the school came out, then went home with my comrades as if nothing -had happened, and did not go to school again for three days. The master -reported my absence. My father questioned me concerning my absence from -school. I then told him the whole affair, and, as I was afraid of -getting another flogging, he accompanied me to the school next day. - -It will be necessary, here, to describe the master and the school. The -master had only one leg and that was his right; he had lost his left -when young, by some means which I never heard of; he walked with a long -crutch under his left arm, and a short one in his right hand. He trotted -very fast, considering that he went on crutches. He was in truth a -terror to dogs or animals which dared to cross his path on his way to -and from the school, and could most wonderfully use the right hand -crutch with great skill and alacrity, in his own defence. - -The school was held in the chapel, which was a most peculiar edifice of -ancient architectural design. Its shape was that of a triangle, each -side of which formed a long hall, one for boys, the other for girls; -there was a gallery at the extreme end of the girls' hall which the -choir occupied during divine service. - -The structure was one story in height, and had a very high, slanting, -thatched roof, with narrow gables. The edge of the gables rose, not in a -slope, but in a succession of notches, like stairs. Altogether it had an -extraordinary look about it, a look of the time when men had to fight in -order to have peace, to kill in order to live—every man's hand against -his brother. The altar stood in the acute corner of the angle, facing -the men's hall, with a railing around it. Under the altar was a small -hole sufficiently large enough for a boy to crawl in. One day I had done -something for which the master started to punish my back with the birch. -He was laying it on pretty stiffly, and he had me in a tight place, -when, in self defence, I pulled the crutch from under him. He fell over -and I retreated into the hole under the altar. However, tracing me out, -he started to dislodge me with his long crutch. For every thrust he gave -me, I gave him one in return, until I found he was too strong for me, -when I made one drive at him, jumped out of my hiding place, and left -for home in a hurry that day. Next day I expected a flogging, but I got -off much easier than I had anticipated. Afterwards—how strange!—he -took quite a liking to me. The number of pupils attending was over two -hundred. The hall was supplied with fuel by a contribution of two turfs -from each scholar every morning, which he brought under his arm. - -Enough of my school history—it would spin out my narrative -unnecessarily. I shall only relate such occurrences as may be necessary -to lead to those main events which properly constitute my eventful -history. I remember my father, but not my mother. She died when I was -yet a baby, and the woman I had been taught to call mother was only my -stepmother. My father had married a second time, and now our family -consisted of my father, stepmother, two sisters, and myself. Our house -was of olden-time stone, gray and brown. It looked very gray and yet -there was a homely, comfortable appearance about it. A visitor's first -step was into what would in some parts here be called "house place"—a -room which served all the purposes of kitchen and dining-room. It rose -to a fair height, with smoked-stained oaken beams above, and was floored -with a home-made kind of cement, hard enough, and yet so worn that it -required a good deal of local knowledge to avoid certain jars of the -spine from sudden changes of level. - -My sisters kept the furniture very clean and shining, especially the -valued pewter on the dresser. The square table, with its spider-like -accumulation of legs, stood under the window until meal times, when, -like an animal aroused from its lair, it stretched those legs and -assumed expanded, symmetrical shape, in front of the fireplace in -winter, and nearer the door in summer. Its memory recalls the occasion -of my stepmother, with a hand at each end of it, searching frantically -for the level, poking for it with the creature's own legs before lifting -the hanging leaves, and then drawing out the hitherto supernumerary legs -to support them, after which would come another fresh adjustment, -another hustling to and fro, that the new feet likewise might have some -chance to rest. The walls of this room were always whitewashed in -spring, occasioning ever a sharpened contrast with the dark brown oak -ceiling. If that was ever swept I never knew. I do not remember ever -seeing it done. At all events its colour remained unimpaired by hand or -whitewash. On the walls hung several articles, some of them high above -my head, which attracted my attention particularly. There was a -fishing-rod, which required the whole length between the windows to -support it. There were old bookshelves, hanging between the old pewter, -of which we were very proud; my father's temperance medal, which he -received from Father Mathew; a picture of Dan O'Connell, the "Irish -Liberator;" several other pictures, and many articles of antique and -Irish origin. I need not linger over these things. Their proper place is -in the picture with which I would save words and help understanding if I -could. - - - MY NATIVE VILLAGE. - - Dear Fiarana! loveliest village of the green. - Where humble happiness endeared each scene; - The never-failing brook at Drumod Mill, - The parish church on John Nutley's hill. - - There in the old thatched chapel, skilled to rule, - The one-legged master taught the parish school; - A learned man was he, but stern to view— - His crutch he often used, and well the gossoons knew. - - Well had the daring urchins learned to trace - His scowling countenance and his fierce grimace; - And yet they laughed with much delight and glee - At all his tales, for many a one had he. - - In all my travels round this world so fair, - Of trials and marches I have had my share; - I still have hope my latter days to crown, - And 'midst old friends at home to lay me down. - - I trust and hope to visit home again, - And sell my book to every village swain; - Around the hearth a wondering crowd to draw, - While spinning yarns of what I heard and saw. - - Men who a military life pursue, - Look forward to the home from whence they flew; - I still have hopes, my long eventful past, - Some day return, and stay at home last. - - T. FAUGHNAN. - - -[Illustration] - - - - -[Illustration] - -CHAPTER II. - - RIVER SHANNON—DERRY CARNE—OUR FARM—MY SISTERS GET MARRIED—CAVE— - STILL-HOUSE—STILL AND WORM—PROCESS—INTERIOR—REVENUE POLICE—IRISH - WAKE—FUNERAL. - - -Our residence was situated on a beautiful bay of the River Shannon in -the County of Leitrim. - -The month was July, and nothing could be more exhilarating than the -breezes which played over the green fields that were now radiant with -the light which was flooded down upon them from the cloudless sun. -Around them, in every field, were the tokens of that pleasant labour -from which the hope of an ample and abundant harvest always springs. - -The bay was bounded on the east by a large wood which abounds in game of -every description. Gentlemen from the surrounding counties were -frequently invited by its owner, Francis Nesbitt, Esq., Derry Carne, -during the shooting and fishing season. Many times I have been out with -them, coming home foot-sore in the evening, after traversing the woods -all day with the sportsmen. Those were happy days. - -My father and the hired man, with the help of my two sisters managed to -sow and gather in the produce of the small farm. I, being the only son, -was kept at school till about sixteen years old, after which I had to -make myself useful around the house and farm. I was about twelve years -old when my eldest sister was married; about two years afterwards my -other sister took unto herself a partner, for better, for worse. After -those events our family dwindled down to three, viz., my father, -stepmother, and myself. - -About this time I roamed about the country a good deal. In the evenings -a few other boys and myself assembled in a "Potteen Still-house" to see -the men who manufactured the potteen, and hear them tell stories. It was -situated about two miles in a north-western direction from our -residence. The country was very rugged and wild, but picturesque. -Although a portion of the same landscape, nothing could be more -strikingly distinct in character than the position of those hills. They -formed a splendid pasture lane for sheep. In approaching these hills you -struck into a "Borheen," or lane which conducted you to the front of a -steep precipice of rocks about fifty feet high. In the northern cover of -this ravine there was an entrance to a subterraneous passage twenty feet -long, which led to a large chamber or deep cave, having every -convenience for a place of private distillation. Under the rocks which -met over it was a kind of gothic arch, and a stream of water just -sufficient for the requisite purpose fell in through a fissure from -above, forming such a little cascade in the cavern as human design -itself could scarcely have surpassed in perfect adaptation for the -object of an illicit distiller. To this cave, then, we must take the -liberty of transporting our readers, in order to give them an -opportunity of getting a peep at the inside of a "Potteen Still-house." -In that end which constituted the termination of the cave, and fixed -upon a large turf fire which burned within a circle of stones that -supported it, was a tolerably sized still made of copper. The mouth of -this still was enclosed by an air-tight cover, also of copper, called -the head, from which a tube of the same metal projected into a large -condenser that was kept always filled with cold water by an incessant -stream from the cascade I have already described, which always ran into -and overflowed it. - -The arm of this head was made air-tight, fitting into a spiral tube of -copper, called the worm, which rested in the water of the cooler; and as -it consisted of several twists like a corkscrew, its effect was to -condense the hot vapour which was transmitted to it from the glowing -still into that description of alcohol known as potteen whiskey or -"mountain dew." - -At the bottom of the cooler the worm terminated in a small cock, from -which the spirits passed in a slender stream about the thickness of a -pipe-stem into a vessel placed for its reception. Such was the position -of the still, head, and worm, when in full operation. - -Fixed about the cave, on wooden benches, were the usual requisites for -the various processes through which it was necessary to put the malt -before the wort, which is the first liquid shape, was fermented, cleared -and passed into the still to be singled; for our readers must know that -distillation is a double process, the first produced being called -singlings, and the second or last doublings—which is the perfect -liquor. Sacks of malt, empty barrels, piles of turf, heaps of grain, -tubs of wash, kegs of whiskey, were lying about in all directions; -together with pots, pans, wooden-trenchers, and dishes for culinary use. - -On entering, your nose was assaulted by such a fume of warm grains, sour -barm, and strong whiskey, as required considerable fortitude to bear, -without very unequivocal tokens of disgust. Seated around the fire were -a party of shebeen men and three or four publicans who came on -professional business. - -In order to evade the vigilance of the "Revenue Police," or, as they -were called, "Still Hunters," the smoke, which passed through a hole in -the roof, came up into a pasture field. On the top of this hole was -fitted a wide flag, made to be shifted at will. On the top of this flag -was kept a turf fire, in charge, of a boy who herded sheep and goats. -When the boy saw the police advancing towards the fire he would shift -the flag over the hole. The police came, lit their pipes, walked off, -and suspected nothing. The boy then shifted back the flag, in order to -let the smoke escape. In this way they escaped detection. - -Several illicit stills flourished in this part of the country, which I -frequently visited during the winter evenings. When there happened to be -a wake I often accompanied parties for whiskey to this still-house; it -being the custom to have a supply of liquor to enliven the guests on -good occasions. The boys and girls always expected a good time for fun -and frolic at a wake, especially if it was an old person who gave up the -ghost; therefore it was looked forward to as a kind of pleasurable -occurrence to the rising generation. I became a regular frequenter on -such occasions, for a radius of three or four miles. The corpse was laid -out on a table, with a white curtain similar to those over a bed. On the -same table, in front were six lighted candles. At the entrance stood a -table furnished with bottles of whiskey, glasses, tobacco and pipes, for -those who drank and smoked to help themselves. An old woman sat at the -head of the corpse whose duty it was to start the crying on the entrance -of a guest. After they got through with the crying, the host passed -round whiskey, tobacco and pipes; when the conversation went on as if -nothing had happened, except the loud crying, which was only the women's -part, the men not joining in it. - -When my stepmother's sister died, I put an onion to my eyes, in order to -cause them to shed tears, which had the desired effect. Those wakes -generally last two or three nights. Whiskey is passed round previous to -the funeral procession starting from the house. - -On returning the processionists invariably called into a "shebeen" to -have a sociable chat and a parting glass to drown their sorrows. I -refrain from quoting the conversation of those peasants, as it would -take up too much space and defeat my object in laying the history of my -life and travels before my readers. - - - - -[Illustration] - -CHAPTER III. - - ADVANCED SCHOOL—STATE OF THE COUNTRY—EMIGRATION—CAUSE OF - POVERTY—IRISH LANDLORDS—POTATO CROP—DISHONEST AGENTS— - ELECTIONS—POLITICS—MY SISTER EMIGRATES—I ENLIST. - - -About the time this chapter opens I had been removed from the country -school (which has been already described in the first chapter), and sent -to a much more advanced and better school, in the town of Drumod, County -Leitrim. I continued at this school about four years, during which time -I had waxed strong in mind, strength, and learning. In the meanwhile the -state of the country gradually assumed a worse and more depressing -character. - -Indeed, at this period of my narrative, the position of Ireland was very -gloomy. Situated as the country was, emigration went forward on an -extensive scale—emigration, too, of that particular description which -every day enfeebles and impoverishes the country, by depriving her of -all that approaches to anything like a comfortable and independent -yeomanry. This, indeed, is a kind of depletion which no country can bear -long; and, as it is, at the moment I write this, progressing at a rate -beyond all precedent, it will not, I trust, be altogether uninteresting -to enquire into some of the causes that have occasioned it. Of course -the principal cause of emigration is the poverty and the depressed state -of the country, wages often being as low as eight-pence a day, and it -follows naturally that whatever occasions our poverty will necessarily -occasion emigration. The first cause of our poverty then is -"absenteeism," which, by drawing six million pounds out of the country, -deprives our people of employment and means of life to that amount. The -next is the general inattention of Irish landlords to the state and -condition of their property, and an inexcusable want of sympathy with -their tenantry, which indeed is only a corollary from the former, for it -can hardly be expected that those who wilfully neglect themselves will -feel a warm interest in others. Political corruption in the shape of the -forty shilling franchise, was another cause, and one of the very worst, -which led to the prostration of the country by poverty and moral -degradation, and for this proprietors of the land were solely -responsible. Nor can the use of the potato as the staple food of the -labouring class, in connection with the truck or credit system and the -consequent absence of money payments,—in addition to the necessary -ignorance of domestic and social comforts, that resulted,—be left out -of this wretched catalogue of our grievances. Another cause of -emigration is to be found in the high and exorbitant rents at which land -is held by all classes of farmers—with some exceptions, such as in the -case of old leases—but especially by those who hold under middlemen, or -on the principle of sub-letting generally. - -By this system a vast deal of distress and petty but most harassing -oppression is every day in active operation, which the head landlord can -never know, and for which he is in no other way responsible than by want -of knowledge of his estates. - -There are still causes, however, which too frequently drive the -independent farmer out of the country. In too many cases it happens that -the rapacity and dishonesty of the agent, countenanced or stimulated by -the necessities and reckless extravagance of the landlord, fall like -some unwholesome blight upon that enterprise and industry which would -ultimately, if properly encouraged, make the country prosperous, and the -landed proprietors independent men. I allude to the nefarious and -monstrous custom of ejecting tenants who have made improvements, or, -when permitted to remain, make them pay for the improvements which they -have made. - -A vast proportion of this crying and oppressive evil must be laid -directly to the charge of those who fill the responsible situation of -landlords and agents to property in Ireland, than whom in general there -does not exist a more unscrupulous, oppressive, arrogant, and dishonest -class of men. Exceptions of course there are, and many, but speaking of -them as a body, I unhappily assert nothing but what the conditions of -property, and of those who live upon it, do at this moment and have for -many years testified. I have already stated that there was a partial -failure in the potato crops that season, a circumstance which ever is -the forerunner of famine and sickness. - -The failure, however, on that occasion, was not alone caused by a blight -in the stalks, but large portions of the seed failing to grow. In -addition, however, to all I have already detailed as affecting the -neighbourhood, or rather the parish, of Anaduff, I have to inform my -readers that the country was soon about to have a contested election. -Viscount Clemens and Samuel White, Esq., were the opposing candidates. -The former had been a convert to Liberalism, and the latter a sturdy -Conservative, a good deal bigoted in politics, but possessing that rare -and inestimable quality which constitutes an honest man. - -It was a hard contested election. The electors throughout the country -were driven to the town on side cars escorted by police. The excitement -was fearful. However the people's candidate gained the election. There -was a large amount of whiskey drunk during this election and there was -plenty of fighting. - -At this time my eldest sister, with her husband, emigrated to Canada. On -parting with her she said she would send for me, but I did not like the -idea of going to America or Canada at that time, although I heard good -reports from both countries. I thought instead that I would go for a -soldier. I had seen splendid, tall soldiers frequently marching past our -house, when I invariably accompanied them for several miles to hear -their band play. With this intention I went to the fair of Mohill, on -the 8th of May, 1847. There I met a recruiting party. I went up to the -sergeant and asked him if he would take me for a soldier; he answered me -in the affirmative. He then told me to answer the following question, -viz.: "Are you free, willing and able to serve Her Majesty Queen -Victoria, her heirs and successors, for a period of twenty-one years?" I -answered, "I am." "Then take this shilling in the name of the Queen." I -"took the shilling," and was one of Queen Victoria's soldiers, and of -the 17th regiment of foot. I must say I never regretted it since. - - - MY OWN, MY NATIVE LAND. - - "Where'er I roam, whatever realms to see, - My heart untravelled fondly turns to thee; - Such is the patriot's boast where'er we roam; - His first, best country, ever is at home. - And trembling, shrinking from the spoiler's hand, - Far, far away thy children leave the land. - Ill fares the land, to hastening ills a prey, - Where wealth accumulates, and men decay: - Princes and lords may flourish, or may fade; - A breath can make them, as a breath has made; - But a bold peasantry, their country's pride, - When once destroyed, can never be supplied. - A time there was, ere Ireland's griefs began, - When every rood of ground maintained its man; - For him light labour spread her wholesome store, - Just gave what life required, but gave no more; - His best companions, innocence and health; - And his best riches, ignorance of wealth. - The broken soldier kindly bade to stay, - Sat by his fire, and talked the night away; - Wept o'er his wounds or tales of sorrow done, - Shouldered his crutch and showed how fields were won." - - - - -[Illustration] - -CHAPTER IV. - - SWEARING IN—MARCH TO DUBLIN—BEGGARS' BUSH BARRACKS—RATIONS—THE - CITY—EMBARKATION—THE SHIP—THE VOYAGE—LIVERPOOL—TRAIN TO LONDON— - BILLETS—CANTERBURY—JOIN THE 17TH REGIMENT. - - -The sergeant conducted me to the rendezvous, where I passed a medical -examination, and was returned fit for "Her Majesty's Service." He then -ushered me into a room in which were five more brothers-in arms. - -Next morning at ten o'clock I was taken before a magistrate and -sworn-in, after which I received a half-crown, called "swearing-in -money." My sister and stepmother hearing I had enlisted came after me -the following day, and tried to get me off, but the sergeant would not -hear of it, and I was unwilling, as I had made up my mind to be a -soldier, as I was anxious to get away from my relatives. My anxiety was -soon realized, for next morning, after breakfast, we were on the road -for Dublin in charge of a staff sergeant, the distance being one hundred -and fifty miles, which we accomplished in ten days. During the journey -the sergeant amused us with stories of his experience in the regiment to -which he belonged, marches in different countries, and several battles -he had fought. It being the month of May, the roads were in good -condition, the weather salubrious, and the country beautiful in the -summer sun. - -On our arrival in the evening we were billetted at a public house, where -soon after our arrival we enjoyed a hot meal, the landlord being allowed -ten-pence for the same, this being according to "Her Majesty's -Regulations." After we had regaled ourselves with the landlord's -hospitality, the sergeant enjoyed himself with his pipe and a glass or -two of beer; he also gave us some of it to drink. I had never tasted -beer previous to this, although I had often tasted "potheen whiskey." -After the sergeant had finished his pipe and glass of beer, we retired -to bed, slept well, and dreamed of long marches. We were on the march -again next morning at eight o'clock, and so every day until we reached -Dublin, which we accomplished in ten days. On arriving in that city I -was astonished at the appearance of the splendid high buildings, the -like of which I had never seen before; they formed a striking contrast -with the cabins which I had been used to look upon in Leitrim. - -We entered the city from the south, marched past the Royal Barracks, -along the Liffy to Carlisle Bridge, where we crossed over; thence past -the Bank and Trinity College, to Beggars' Bush Barracks where we were to -await orders to join the depôt of our regiment in Canterbury. - -On our arrival in barracks we were told off to different companies _pro -tem._ until our embarkation for Liverpool. This was my first night in -barracks. I was shown a bed or cot, with three pegs over it, to hang my -clothes on. We soon got acquainted with other recruits, and old -soldiers, who showed us to the canteen, where there was a large company -of soldiers and recruits carousing and singing. On the first post -sounding, we had to answer our names in barracks at tattoo roll-call, -and be in bed at last post. Fifteen minutes afterwards "out lights" was -sounded, when all the lights were put out, except the orderly -sergeants', who had fifteen minutes longer for theirs. "Reveillé" -sounded next morning at five, when we all got up, made our beds, and -were on parade at six o'clock, when we were drilled till half-past -seven, were practised at setting up drill and the goose step. It being -my first drill, I was awkward; we had three such drills daily (Sundays -excepted), while we were in these barracks. On being dismissed, we went -to breakfast, which consisted of a pound of bread and a basin of coffee -each; my appetite being good, I made short work of the pound of bread. -Our dinner consisted of soup, beef and potatoes; at supper we got a -quarter of a pound of bread and a basin of tea. After paying for our -rations, washing, and barrack damages, there were four-pence left, which -I received every day at twelve o'clock, so that I could spend that much -for extra food if I wanted it; some of the recruits preferred to spend -it in beer. - -When the daily afternoon drill was over I generally walked into the city -to see what I could of the place. I went past some splendid shops, saw -the soldiers on guard at the castle, went into the Royal, Ship-street, -and Linen Hall Barracks, visited Nelson's monument, Sackville Streets, -Four Courts and Burns' saloon in the evening. After we had been a week -in barracks, an order came for us to proceed to Canterbury and join our -depôt there; this order was most agreeable, and we hailed it with -pleasure, for we were anxious to get into our uniform. Accordingly two -days afterwards, fourteen of us, with a staff sergeant in charge, were -paraded on the barrack-square. After we had signed our accounts, and -were told that our bounty would be paid to us on arrival at our depôt, -we were told to number off from the right, and showed how to "form four -deep;" the command "quick march" being given, we marched off to the -north wall for embarkation on board a steamer which was to sail for -Liverpool at four p.m. that day. An officer accompanied us to the -steamer to see us all safe on board. - -Several soldiers came to see us off. I would like to tell my reader more -about Dublin; but, as I hope to visit it again during my soldiering, I -will defer them till further experience has increased my stock of -knowledge. Four o'clock p.m. was the time set for our departure; we were -all well pleased when we got on board; the afternoon was beautiful, so -we anticipated a pleasant voyage. An ocean-ship was to me a novel place, -and I had many things to learn. "What is that little flag at the main -mast?" said I to a man standing near me. "That they call a Blue Peter; -it indicates that the ship is to sail immediately." "And what is that -flag at the stern?" "Why, that is the Union Jack, the pride and boast of -every British subject." - -My reflections were broken by the loud, sharp cry of the ships captain, -"all on board." The last warning was given; friends hastily exchanged -the farewell tokens of affection. I saw many, too, struggling to keep -their tears back. I stood alone; no one knew me or cared particularly -for me, but I was not an uninterested spectator. I dropped a few tears -when I looked at my native land, which I was about to leave, and thought -of the friends I had left behind me. All was in readiness,—ten minutes -past four o'clock p.m. the ponderous machine was put in motion; the huge -paddle-wheels lazily obeyed the mandate. The Blue Peter came down and -the Union Jack went up, and we moved slowly out among the shipping of -the harbour. It was a clear, beautiful evening, and the water lay like -an immense mirror in the sun-light; we passed the light-house which -stood at the end of the harbour like a huge sentinel to guide the -passage to the ocean. Onward we went; shore and city faded away and -disappeared in the distance. I looked out on the wide expanse of waters; -the sea and sky were all that could be seen now, except a few sea-gulls, -which hovered round the ship in search of an accidental crumb that might -be thrown over-board. We were fairly out at sea. The flags were taken -in, and things put in readiness for rougher ocean life; for a time we -moved on pleasantly. Towards sun-down a head wind sprang up producing -that rocking motion of the boat that makes sea life so much of a dread -to those unaccustomed to water; at about ten o'clock our head wind -changed to a side wind, and we had what the sailors call "a chopping -sea," producing a very unpleasant motion of the boat. Previous to this -the recruits were in good spirits, but now silence reigned; I could see -them getting pale, and one by one go below. I felt myself approaching a -crisis of some kind, but was determined to put it off as long as -possible. I kept on deck in the open air, and resolutely frowned down -all signs of rebellion in my stomach. From what I heard going on around -me, I was aware I was not the worst sufferer; with some the agony of the -contest was kept up all night long. At three o'clock p.m., we passed -Holy Head; at five we were steaming up the Mersey, and were landed on -Liverpool Dock at six o'clock. After a run of twelve and a half hours, -here I was, standing in amazement, looking at the forests of masts, and -the vast amount of shipping in the Docks. Liverpool is noted principally -for its shipping accommodation and fine docks; of these it has now over -eleven miles in length, all walled in, and protected by massive gates -like the locks of a canal; this renders the shipping very secure. It is -a place of great mercantile importance and trade; the streets are -continually in a perfect jam with heavy waggons and vehicles of almost -every description. If I was astonished at the appearance of Dublin, how -much more so at this great Babel of commerce. The sergeant took us to an -eating-house, owned by one of his acquaintances, where he ordered -breakfast, for which I believe the landlord did not make much profit; -for what with sea-sickness, and fasting since three p.m. the day -previous, I'll leave it to my reader to determine whether we were able -to do justice to the landlord's hospitality or not. - -We left the depôt at Liverpool about ten a.m. on the "Great -North-western Railway" for London. I am now taking my first view of -England and English scenery, also my first ride in a railway carriage. -As we passed along, numerous towns and villages dotted the country; -multitudes of great black smoke stacks, amid splendid steeples and -church towers, side by side, rose in majesty towards the heavens. - -Thus religion and industry are generally, nay always, found in close -proximity; with the smoke of the furnace goes up the incense of worship; -with the hum of machinery is mingled the anthem of praise. The train -stopped at several stations, which were beautifully fitted up; during -the journey we frequently partook of refreshments at the different -stations. The train travelled very fast. After a ride of one hundred and -eighty miles, in nine and a half hours, we reached London, the great -metropolis of England, and the mart of the world. We were set down at -Euston Station. Now my eyes, indeed, were opened wide, gazing on the -magnificence of the great modern Babel of the universe. We were billeted -on three different taverns, in close proximity to each other. The -sergeant had to report himself at the "Horse Guards," and hand over some -recruits which he had for regiments stationed at London. - -He left me in charge of the billet while he was gone. We remained here -five days, during which I visited a great many places. There are many -wonderful things that can be seen in a brief walk through this great -metropolis, if a man has his eyes open. - -I should like to have had time here to take my reader to the top of some -of the tall monuments; to walk with him among the wondrous -fortifications of "Old London Tower," through the rooms where nobles, -princes, kings, and queens have been incarcerated; to stand with him on -"Tower Hill," where the scaffold and executioner's block tell their dark -tales of treachery and blood and murder. I should like to go with my -reader to Westminster Abbey, a wonderful pile, a venerable old church, -and the great sepulchral home of England's honoured dead. It is worth a -journey across the Atlantic to take a stroll through its cold, damp -aisles and chapels; to stand amid its costly monuments and mouldering -dust, where death for many long centuries has been gathering her -glorious trophies, and yet her dark garlands have been recorded and -embodied by human skill and art and genius. I have in a very brief space -brought before my readers facts and stories; but I must defer any -further description until my next visit, for I hope to see all those -wonders again. The sergeant had done his duty to his satisfaction, and -this being our last evening in London, he took us to the Haymarket -Theatre, where we witnessed the "Colleen Bawn." After the play was over, -we took the serjeant into a saloon close by, and treated him to oysters, -beer, and cigars, after which we went to our billets quite jolly. Next -morning, after paying the landlord and bidding him good-bye, we marched -to the Waterloo Railway Station, where we took the train at ten o'clock. -After a ride of about eighty miles, in two hours, we were in Canterbury, -and put down at St. Dunstan Street Station, marched into barracks, and -were handed over to the officer commanding the depôt of the 17th -Regiment of Foot, "The Royal Tigers." We were told off to companies, and -shown our quarters. More about Canterbury as my story advances. As I am -now stationed here; I hope to have an opportunity of getting acquainted -with this ancient cathedral city. - - -[Illustration] - - - - -[Illustration] - -CHAPTER V. - - MEDICAL EXAMINATION—RECEIVE MY KIT—DRILL, MANUAL AND PLATOON - EXERCISE—DISMISSED DRILL—VISIT THE CITY—DESCRIPTION—ROUTE— - THE MARCH. - - -The following morning, reveillé Sounded at Five o'clock, when I turned -out, made my bed, and was dressed when the drill bugle sounded at -half-past. - -Parade being formed at six by the sergeant-major, the recruits without -uniform were not required to drill that morning; drill being over and -the bugle for breakfast sounding, we all sat down to a pound of bread -and a basin of coffee each. We were afterwards marched to the Regimental -Hospital by the orderly corporal, where we passed another medical -examination, which was final, and were returned fit for service; we were -next marched to the quarter-master's store, and received our uniform and -kit, which consisted of one of each of the following articles, viz., -pair boots, cloth trowsers, summer trowsers, shako, tunic, stock and -clasp, shell-jacket, forage-cap, pair mits, tin blacking, pair braces, -clothes-brush, canteen and cover, knapsack and straps, great coat and -haversack, two shirts, two pair socks, and two towels; for the marking -of which we were charged a halfpenny each. We were next taken to the -tailor's shop, where we had our clothing altered and fitted; this lasted -four or five days, during which time we were exempt from drill; but -instead had to do the duties of orderly men by turns, that is, prepare -the meals for those at drill, and keep the barrack rooms clean and in -proper order. After we got our clothing all right, we then turned out to -drill three times a day, viz., before breakfast, club drill; ten -o'clock, commanding officer's parade, with setting up drill; afternoon, -goose step, extension and balance motions. - -At all these parades and drills we were minutely inspected by the -orderly sergeant, and afterwards by the sergeant major, and if the least -fault was found ordered to parade again, which was called "a dirty -parade." I took particular pains to escape the latter. - -When drill commenced, we were formed into squads of six or eight men -each, in line, at arms-length apart, which is termed a "squad with -intervals;" after drilling in single rank for a week, one squad was -increased to two ranks, at open order, the rear rank covering the -intervals. - -The sergeant major frequently came round to each squad, and finding a -deserving recruit, sent him up to a more advanced squad; in this way the -most intelligent and attentive recruits were advanced. I was lucky in -being one of the first sent up, and I afterwards got sent up step by -step, until I reached the advanced squad, where I learned company's -drill without arms; after which we were served with arms, formed into -squads, taught the manual and platoon exercise, company and battalion -movements, with arms. - -We were then put through a course of ball practice. The distance being -fifty, a hundred, hundred and fifty, and two hundred yards; the "old -Brown Bess" being in use then. The first shot I fired I got a bull's -eye, which was reckoned a first-class shot, and the only one I got -during the practice. After we had finished the course, we were again -inspected, when we acquitted ourselves to the entire satisfaction of the -officers, and were accordingly dismissed from recruits' drill, and -returned fit for duty as soldiers. Two days afterwards the head-quarters -of the regiment arrived from Bombay, marched into barracks, band -playing, colours flying, forming up on the barrack square. The men were -tall and soldier-like, but very much tanned from exposure in the east. -Their strength on arrival was only five hundred. - -We were all delighted to meet the head-quarters, which had been long -expected. They had a long, rough voyage of three months, having come in -a sailing vessel. - -After they had been inspected by the commanding officer, Colonel -Pinnikuck, they were told off and shown to their different barrack-rooms. - -Next day, regimental orders being issued, I heard my name read out -"Private Thomas Faughan posted to the Grenadier or Captain L. C. -Bourchier's company." I was well pleased to hear this, it being the best -company in the regiment. The whole of the recruits were also posted to -the different service companies. - -Being dismissed from recruit's drill, I had ample opportunities of -walking out in the afternoons, and visiting some of the old places -around the city, among which was the cathedral, one of the oldest -ecclesiastical edifices in England. - -It was consecrated by Saint Augustine, A.D. 597. Here, too, he baptized -Ethelbert, King of Kent. Saint Martin's Church under-the-hill, said to -be the oldest in England, is another time-worn structure, partly built -of Roman brick and tiles. There are fourteen such old churches here, -most of them built of rough flint, and very ancient. - -Also the ruins of a Norman Castle, one of the largest in England, which -stands near a mound known as the "Dan John;" connected with this are -beautiful gardens, where the band of our 17th regiment played always on -Thursday afternoon, when hundreds of the élite of the city assembled to -promenade. - -This is one of the pleasantest stations in England for a soldier; there -is no garrison duty to perform, the only duties being the regimental -guards, and they come very seldom; the men getting sixteen nights in bed -between guards. - -Regiments arriving from India are generally stationed here for some -time, in order to recruit after foreign service and the long voyage. - -The citizens are very much attached to soldiers, and treat them with the -greatest kindness and respect. Our regiment was not fortunate enough to -be left here much longer, for a letter of "readiness" was received by -the commanding officer, directing him to hold the regiment ready to -proceed to Dover at the shortest notice, which he made known to us in -regimental orders that evening. After this order was read we were all on -the alert, officers and men preparing for the march, packing officers' -and mess baggage, whitewashing and cleansing barracks—to save barrack -damages, that great curse—ready to hand over to the barrack master. - -Accordingly the route came, which was read as follows, viz.:— - - "REGIMENTAL ORDERS, - BY LIEUT-COLONEL PINNIKUCK. - CANTERBURY BARRACKS, Sept. 20th, 1847. - -Agreeably to a Route received this day from Horse Guards, the Regiment -will parade in heavy marching order, at eight o'clock, A.M., on Tuesday -next, the 24th instant, for the purpose of proceeding to Dover, there to -be stationed till further orders. The men will breakfast at 7 o'clock on -that day. - - By Order, - (Signed), Lieut. CODD, - _Acting Adjutant 17th Regiment_." - -The following morning inspection of kits, at ten o'clock, by the -commanding officer, ordered, and afterwards medical inspection. Next day -being Sunday, the regiment paraded at ten o'clock, for divine service, -when we all marched to church, with the band playing; Protestants and -Roman Catholics going to their different places of worship, no other -denomination being recognised in the regiment. - -The barracks were inspected on Monday morning, by the quarter-master and -captains of companies; the afternoon was occupied in loading the baggage -waggons. - -Tuesday, Sept. 24th, the regiment was on parade, ready to fall in, when -the officers' and non-commissioned officers' call sounded; the latter, -forming in line, were minutely inspected by the adjutant, accompanied by -the sergeant-major, at the same time collecting the reports from the -orderly-sergeants, after which the companies formed on the coverers, -right in front. - -The rolls being called, the captains inspected their companies, that -being finished, the colonel gave the commands, "eyes front, steady, fix -bayonets, shoulder arms, left wheel into line, quick march, halt, -dress." Then the adjutant galloped down the front, collecting the -reports, saluting the colonel as he reported "all correct, Colonel!" -"Form fours, right, quick march;" when the whole stepped off, the band -at the same time striking up "Auld Lang Syne;" marched out of barracks, -down north gate, and up High Street, accompanied by such a crowd of -citizens, that it is easier to imagine than describe. After marching -through the principal streets, the music changed to "The Girl I Left -Behind Me," of the latter there were quite a few followed us outside the -town; when the order was given "unfix bayonets, march at ease." The -latter order being quickly obeyed (for we had quite a load on our backs, -having the whole of our kit in our knapsacks), we were allowed to sing, -chat, and laugh to shorten the journey. After we had got to the half-way -house we halted, piled arms, and were allowed to go into the hotel for -refreshments. When we were well rested and refreshed (thanks to the -landlord, who had everything we needed ready), the march commenced -again, and we accomplished the journey of sixteen miles in eight hours, -in heavy marching order. On arrival in Dover, at four o'clock p.m., the -left wing were stationed at the castle, and right, with head-quarters, -at the heights. - - -[Illustration] - - - - -[Illustration] - -CHAPTER VI. - - ARRIVAL AT DOVER—FIRST GUARD—THE DEAD HOUSE—GHOST—THE HEIGHTS— - SHAFT—FORTIFICATIONS—MARCHING OUT—CHARTIST RIOTS—TRAIN TO - LONDON—DEPARTURE—OSBORNE HOUSE—MAIN DOCK—ROUTE TO CHATHAM— - SIEGE—SHAM FIGHT. - - -On the arrival in barracks, the companies were shown their respective -quarters, when we soon divested ourselves of our knapsacks and -accoutrements; orderly men were told off to draw rations and prepare -supper, while the remainder went to fill their beds with straw at the -barrack stores; cleaning arms and accoutrements occupied the remainder -of the evening. We were exempt from drill the following day, in order to -get our barracks and appointments thoroughly clean after the march. - -It was now getting near my turn for guard, and it being my first, I was -determined to turn out in a soldier-like manner, with my appointments -clean and shining. Accordingly I was detailed for the western redoubt, -which furnishes a sentry over the garrison hospital, that stands on the -middle of a common, on the top of the Western Heights above the -barracks, and a quarter of a mile from any house or habitation. - -After mounting guard I was in the first relief, and my post was at the -hospital; on receiving my orders from the corporal he directed my -attention to the dead house, where, laid out on a table, was a body I -was to keep the rats from gnawing. The corporal having posted me at -eleven o'clock that night, all the ghost stories I had heard in the -"potheen still house" in Leitrim, came up in my mind as flush as when -they were told. While I was thinking, I heard a noise, looked round, and -saw a man dressed in white standing at the door of the dead house. I -tried to challenge, but my tongue was tied. I felt paralyzed. I -scrambled along the walk to the front of the hospital, knocking at the -door, when the sergeant came out and said, "what is the matter, sentry?" -"Oh!" said I, "there's a man, dressed in white, at the 'Dead House.'" - -He went back for an orderly, saying something incoherent, when both went -round to the dead house, and there they found everything as they had -left it. The sergeant called me a fool, and threatened to report me for -leaving my post; this stirred me up, and I walked up and down briskly -the remainder of the two hours which appeared the longest I ever passed -in my life. I said nothing of the occurrence to the men on guard lest -they might laugh at me. - -Our guard being relieved, we were marched to barracks, inspected by the -orderly officer, and dismissed. The sergeant, however, did not report me -as he had threatened; whether he forgot or not I did not try to find -out. The garrison consisted of two batteries royal artillery, one on the -heights, and the other at the castle, a company of sappers and miners, -besides our own regiment. - -The troops had many guards to furnish, consequently the men got only -five nights in bed between duty; besides, fatigue parties were many and -laborious, on account of so much uphill work; the water supplied to the -garrison was brought up from a well over three hundred feet deep, by -means of a wheel which took four men to work, they being relieved every -two hours. - -The heights on which the barracks stand are three hundred and eighty -feet above the level of the sea. A deep perpendicular shaft, containing -about four hundred steps of winding-stairs, leads from town to the -barracks on the heights, which tries the men's wind coming up at tattoo, -and at other times when on fatigue. - -The garrison is well fortified, and comprises "Dover Castle," which -occupies a commanding position on the chalk cliffs, about 380 feet above -the level of the sea, and in the construction of which, Saxons and -Normans displayed no small amount of ingenuity; the Western Heights, -Fort Burgoyne, the south Front Bastion, the Drop Redoubt, the Citadel, -the western outworks, and the north Centre Bastion, with Queen Anne's -Pocket Piece on the Castle heights. The harbour is well sheltered by the -chalk cliffs, which end landwards, in a charming valley leading to what -is known as the "Garden of Kent." During the winter our regiment marched -into the country in heavy marching order twice a week, when we generally -went ten to twelve miles on each occasion, and not unfrequently -encountering a snow or rain storm, returning literally covered with mud, -the roads being so sloppy. These marches, with piquets, fatigues, and -guards, kept us busily employed. About the end of March there was great -excitement in London over the "Chartists," who were expected to break -out in open revolt. The colonel got private notification that most -likely the regiment would be ordered to London. We were therefore -expecting an order to proceed thither to quell the riot which was daily -expected. Our expectations were realized, for on the sixth of April, -1848, we got the route to proceed to London by rail, on the 9th instant, -there to be stationed till further orders. When this order was given, -there was great excitement in barracks preparing for the journey; we had -only two days to pack and get the baggage to the station; however, many -hands made light work, and we had all the baggage down at the station -and everything in readiness on the evening previous to our departure. On -the 9th, we were on parade at seven o'clock, a.m., in heavy marching -order, the companies told off and all reported present, when the colonel -gave the command—"quarter distance column on the grenadiers, quick -march," each captain halting his respective company as it came into its -place. He then addressed the men, urging them when in London to uphold -the credit of their old corps, &c., after which he gave the command "to -the right face," when each captain gave the command to his company, -"quick march," the companies stepping off in succession, each company -wheeling to the left down the shaft. On arriving at the bottom the band -struck up "The British Grenadiers;" we marched to the station -(accompanied by a large concourse of the townspeople), where a special -train was in readiness to convey us to London. As we went on the train -the band played "Auld Lang Syne," and "The Girl I Left Behind Me." One -hour-and-a-half afterwards we were marching four deep with fixed -bayonets, from the Dover and Chatham Station to Millbank Prison. The -streets were so crowded that we had great difficulty in reaching our -destination. On arrival, we were shown into two large rooms, one for -each wing, with a straw mattress on trestles for each man. - -The following morning, April 10th, 1848, an order had arrived from the -Duke of Wellington, Commander-in-Chief, to hold the troops in readiness -to march to Kennington Common, where the Chartists had intended -assembling in large numbers to march through London to the House of -Commons carrying a petition embodying their demands. - -This was to be presented by Fergus O'Connor, one of the members for -Nottingham. - -The Londoners, to the number of a quarter of a million, enrolled -themselves as special constables; the Chartists were not allowed to -march in procession, and the whole affair passed off quietly, without -bloodshed. - -The troops which the Duke had posted ready, when called on, out of -sight, were not required. Our regiment with several others, and a few -troops of cavalry, were under arms the whole day in rear of the prison, -ready to advance at the shortest notice. - -While here we were not allowed to go through the city on account of the -unsettled state of society; we were supplied with beer inside, the -orderly sergeants of companies serving it out in our mess tins. - -The troops which had been concentrated in London, from different parts -of England on this emergency were now ordered to return; some to their -former stations, others to fresh ones; our regiment was ordered to -proceed to Portsmouth. - -The troops had a very smart, soldierly appearance; such a large number -of cavalry and infantry emerging from their different quarters through -the streets, bands playing, quite astonished the citizens as they -marched to their destinations. - -Our march was to the London and South-western Railway Station, where we -took the train at ten o'clock, a.m., for Portsmouth, arriving there at -twelve o'clock, a distance of seventy-five miles in two hours. - -We were marched to Colworth and Clarence barracks, there to be stationed -till further orders. - -General Orders issued soon after our arrival, by Lord Frederick -Fitzclarence, commanding the troops in garrison; the 17th Regiment was -taken on the strength of the garrison, and detailed to furnish the -following duties: main guard, Southsea Castle, Landport Rablin, and the -main and lower dock-yard. The guards with the colours of the regiment -that furnishes the main are trooped every day at ten o'clock on the -Grand Esplanade (Sundays and wet days excepted). I was detailed for the -main guard, which consists of one captain, one subaltern, one sergeant, -two corporals, and twenty-four privates; my post being on the ramparts, -in the rear of the guard-house, where I had a fine view of the harbour, -the roadstead of Spithead, and the Isle of Wight, on the coast of which -the walls of the Royal residence at Osborne House are seen sparkling -among the trees. I had been well broken in to sentry duty by this time, -and was not so easily frightened at my post now, as when I was watching -the corpse at Dover hospital. - -Numbers of nobility and gentry assemble to witness the trooping, and to -see the main guard relieved. The following day, after being relieved, -general field day of the troops in garrison was ordered to assemble on -Southsea Common, under the command of General Fitzclarence. These -reviews were once a week. My next guard was the "main dock," it is also -a captain's guard of great responsibility; sentries are very strict on -their posts, being furnished with "countersign," "number," and "parole," -no person is allowed to pass a post without being able to give them to -the sentry. There are a great many mechanics and labourers employed -here; it is at present two hundred and ninety-three acres in extent—one -of the largest in the country. Of this immense naval establishment, the -most noteworthy, if not the most recent, features are, the mast and rope -houses, hemp stores, rigging-stores, sail-loft, and the dry docks, -spacious enough to admit the largest vessels, and offering every -facility for their speedy repair: of the various building-slips, one of -them, roofed and covered in, is so large that three or four vessels can -be in process of construction at the same time. When Queen Victoria and -Prince Albert opened a new basin in those docks in 1848, our grenadier -company formed a guard of honour to Her Majesty and the Prince. We also -formed a guard of honour on the occasion of Her Majesty and Prince -Albert landing at Gosport the same year, when they inspected our company -and complimented Captain Bourchier on the clean, soldier-like appearance -of his company. I remember Prince Albert perfectly well; he was dressed -in a Field Marshal's uniform, with a broad blue silk sash over his left -shoulder. He was the finest looking man I ever saw—he must have been -six feet four inches in height. The dock-yard also contains the -residence of the superintending officers and a school of naval -architecture. - -This is a very lively town; the public houses are well patronised by -soldiers and sailors; we liked the station very much, although the -guards came often; we bathed once a week on the beach of Southsea -common, which is now a fashionable watering place—a band plays here -once a week in the afternoon. After we were here six months we got the -route to proceed to Chatham, where we arrived on the 18th October, and -were stationed in Chatham barracks. If Portsmouth was a strict garrison, -this is much stricter—there are so many recruits here belonging to -regiments in India. They are formed into what is called a provisional -battalion. We were looked to as an example for the recruits. Here the -dock-yard duty is carried on much the same as at Portsmouth, with a -little more humbugging. - -We were employed here a good deal in preparing for a siege operation at -Saint Mary's Barracks, above Brompton, in building a stockade, and -throwing up earthworks and trenches; in the summer we had a grand -sham-fight, the troops being formed into two armies, one attacking, the -other defending. We were practising for this siege for over two months -previously, carrying scaling ladders and moving round with them to the -ditches of the fortification; it was very fatiguing work. After we were -well practised, and everything in readiness, the grand day came off on -the Queen's birthday, 1849, when over ten thousand people were present, -most of whom came down from London to witness this grand sham-fight. It -came off splendidly, when all returned home well pleased. - - -[Illustration] - - - - -[Illustration] - -CHAPTER VII. - - ROUTE TO CANTERBURY—THE MARCH—ARRIVAL—CHATHAM—DOCKYARD—FURLOUGH - TO LONDON—THAT GREAT CITY—JOIN MY COMPANY—SHEERNESS—THE DOCKYARD— - GET MARRIED—ROUTE TO WEEDON—ROUTE TO IRELAND. - - -A few days afterwards we got the route for Canterbury. On June 2nd we -marched from Chatham up High Street, with the band playing at the head -of the regiment. We were accompanied by a large crowd of the townspeople -outside the town, who gave us three cheers on parting; we marched ten -miles that day, and were billeted in the pretty little village of -Greenstreet where the people treated us with the greatest kindness and -regard. - -Resuming the march at seven o'clock the following morning, we arrived at -Canterbury at twelve, where we were met by several of our old -acquaintances, who were pleased to see us back again, and accompanied us -to the barracks. During our stay here of three months we had easy times, -getting sixteen nights in bed, hardly any fatigues, but plenty of drill. -On the 5th September, 1849, we marched back again to Chatham, arriving -there at 5 p.m. on the 6th, after two days hard marching with a full kit -weighing fifty pounds. The march tired many of our men, the weather -being very sultry and the roads dusty. - -The fortified lines around Chatham are the frequent scenes of military -siege-operations, miniature battles, and grand reviews. - -In a military point of view the lines of detached forts connecting -constitute a fortification of great strength, and the whole is regarded -as a perfect flank defence for London in the event of an invader seeking -to attack the capital from the south coast; the place is also defended -by some strong forts on the Medway. - -Near Chatham is Fort Pitt, a military hospital and strong fort, barracks -for infantry, marines, artillery and engineers, a park of artillery and -magazines, storehouse and depôt on a large scale. In a naval sense, it -is one of the principal royal shipbuilding establishments in Great -Britain, and a visit to it never fails to impress the stranger with a -sense of the naval power of the country. The dock-yard is nearly two -miles in length, containing several building-slips and wet docks -sufficiently capacious for the largest ships, and the whole is traversed -in every direction by a tramway for locomotives. There are on an -average, 3,500 shipwrights, caulkers, joiners, sawyers, mill-wrights, -sail-makers, rope-makers, riggers and labourers, with 5,000 soldiers, -sailors and marines, making it lively for public-houses and saloons, -which are always crowded with soldiers and sailors in the evenings. - -About the middle of December, I applied to the captain of my company for -a furlough; having no offence against me since joining, he had no -trouble in getting it granted. I had saved most of my pay since I -joined, and now had sufficient funds, with the amount allowed me from -the captain in advance, to bear my expenses during my absence from the -regiment; and as all my near relatives in Leitrim were either dead or -had emigrated to America, I had no particular place to spend my -furlough, and being stationed so near London, I made up my mind to visit -that great city, and avail myself of the opportunity of visiting once -more at my leisure some of the principal places of note and amusement. -My furlough was dated from 16th December, and expired 16th January. I -left the Sun Pier at Chatham, by a penny steamboat to Stroud Station, -thence by rail to Gravesend, and boat to Blackwall; from there by rail -to Fenchurch, where I took an omnibus to Cambden-Hill-Villa, Kensington, -where I stayed on invitation with a friend during my sojourn in London. -During my ride through the city on the outside of the omnibus, I had a -splendid view of the perfect labyrinth of streets and squares, -warehouses and stores, churches and palaces, which I strongly recommend -all strangers in London to see. Here I am riding through the vast -metropolis of England, where nearly four millions of people of all -classes, grades, and conditions, find a home; a city that covers eighty -thousand acres of ground; where is consumed fifty-five million gallons -of beer and porter, with three million gallons of ardent spirits, -annually poured out to satisfy unnatural and voracious appetites. It -takes thirty thousand tailors to make their clothes, forty thousand -shoemakers to take care of their feet, and fifty thousand milliners and -dressmakers to attend to the ladies' dresses; here an army of -twenty-five thousand servants are daily employed, and the smoke of the -coal-fires darkens the country for more than twenty miles around. The -splendour of the magnificent buildings and shops, carriages, cabs, -omnibuses, and vehicles of every description, with crowds of -pedestrians, impressed me with surprise beyond my powers of description. -I got off at Silver Street after paying the conductor six-pence for my -fare, and walked to my friend's house, where I was received in a most -cordial manner. During my stay in London I visited many of the principal -places of interest in the city, among which were the following, viz.: -St. James' Palace, an irregular cluster of buildings used for court -purposes, but not as the Queen's residence; Buckingham Palace, the -Queen's London residence, a large quadrangular building; Marlborough -House, now the residence of the Prince of Wales; Kensington Palace and -Gardens; Houses of Parliament, a vast structure which has cost -£3,000,000, perhaps the finest building in the world applied to national -purposes—the river front is 900 feet long; Westminster Hall, a noble -old structure, of which the main hall is 290 feet by 68, and -110 feet high; the Horse Guards, the official residence of the -Commander-in-Chief, with an arched entrance to St. James' Park, where -under the arches on each side are two noble specimens of mounted -sentries; the National Gallery devoted to a portion of the nation's -pictures, in Trafalgar Square; South Kensington Museum; the Guards -Barracks, Chelsea; the General Post Office, which has a hall 80 feet by -60, and 53 high, with a vast number of offices all around it. - -[Illustration: THE THAMES EMBANKMENT.] - -Of public columns and statues the chief which interested me and took my -attention were the following:—Nelson's Column, Trafalgar Square; and -York Column, Waterloo Steps.[1] - -Of the public parks in the Metropolis, the most important are Hyde Park, -St. James' Park, the Green Park, Regent's Park, Victoria Park, -Kensington Park—all belong to the nation, and are, of course, out of -the builders' hands. They are most valuable as "lungs" and breathing -places for great London. - -The Zoological Gardens, Horticultural Gardens, and Botanic Gardens are -beautiful places, belonging to private societies. Of places of -amusements, there are three opera houses, about thirty theatres, twelve -music halls and concert rooms of large dimensions (including Albert -Hall), a much larger number of smaller size, and very numerous -exhibition rooms of various kinds, including Madame Tussaud's exhibition -of wax figures, in Baker Street; these greatly interested and amused me. - -I must not forget my leave is nearly up; my furlough expires to-morrow -night at tattoo. Also, I am sorry I cannot stay longer, time seems so -short and flies so fast in this great city, but as a soldier I must -never forget my duty. - -After bidding my friend good-bye, and thanking him kindly for his -generous hospitality, I started back to join my regiment at Chatham, by -the same route I had come, arriving in barracks at tattoo, January 16th, -and duly reporting myself. - -Whilst I had been on leave, my company (the grenadiers) were under -orders for detachment at Sheerness. Accordingly we embarked at the Sun -Pier, and proceeded down the Medway, by steamer, on the 8th February, -arriving at our destination at two p.m., commanded by Captain L. G. -Bourchier, and were stationed in the same barracks as the 72nd -Highlanders, whose pipers kept playing and droning from reveillé till -tattoo. This is also another of England's Royal ship-building -establishments; there are nearly two thousand artisans and labourers -employed daily in the dockyard. The streets, public houses, and concert -rooms are continually, unfortunately, crowded with sailors, soldiers, -marines, and dockyard hands, every evening; and not unfrequently a -bar-room row takes place between the soldiers and sailors; on one -occasion I saw two of our tallest and ablest grenadiers peel off their -coats and clean out a whole tap-room of sailors, and that with their -English fists. - -On our last visit to Canterbury, what did I do but, like an Irishman, -fall in love. I made the acquaintance of a Kentish beauty and promised -to marry her, with the understanding that I got the commanding officer's -sanction in order to carry out this promise, after our company had been -here about a month, I applied to the colonel, of course through the -captain of my company, for leave to get married, which was granted, -through the strong recommendation and influence of my captain; for my -readers must know that it is only a very small proportion of soldiers -(six to each company), and those only of the best character and highly -recommended, can get leave to marry; or if they marry without leave, -they have no claim to participate in any of the advantages and -privileges attached to the soldier who marries with leave—such as -quarters in barracks and on foreign stations, "rations." Having received -the commanding officer's permission, I was married, on the 3rd of April, -1850, at Minster, in the Isle of Sheppy, Kent. My wife then was placed -on the strength of the regiment from that date. Now my happiness was -complete. I was struck out of the barrack-room messing, and my wife and -I became truly happy together. Instead of walking down the town with my -comrades, I walked out with my wife in the evening on the ramparts in -the rear of our quarters, and gazed in wonder at the massive -fortifications and guns which encircled our barracks. Here we could hear -the soft strains of exquisite music from the various military bands of -marines, or the regiments in garrison, or, more frequently, the pipers -of the 72nd Highlanders, or the sound of the evening gun re-echo over -the surface of the waters from the flag-ship which rode so majestically -at anchor in the distant roadsteads, with the sun sinking into an ocean -of fire, and the white sails of the fishing smacks glistening in the -setting sun. We had been for some time fearing to be relieved from this -delightful station; at length the long expected order came. The rumours -which had been for some time gathering strength as to our destination -were discovered to have had a better foundation than many which in -general floated indefinitely about our barracks, on the subject of which -no one ever could discover their origin, for, you must know, soldiers -are great gossipers. - -Our orders are for Weedon, a small town in Northamptonshire, on the -River Nene. In three days we were to embark on board a steamer for -London, thence by rail. We were all rather sorry for leaving the present -station, although soldiers always like fresh scenery, and always play, -when they leave, "The Girl I left Behind Me." - -We embarked on the 18th of May, accompanied by the band, pipes, and -several men, of the 72nd Highlanders to the wharf, the band playing -"Auld Lang Syne" as our steamer moved off from the dock, the men -cheering and waving their handkerchiefs, which we responded to in a most -friendly manner. We were all very happy, though we were rather closely -packed together—a circumstance generally considered dangerous to a good -fellowship. The vessel was a small one, and being of rather ancient -build did not boast all those conveniences that the new steamers -possess. The voyage was a short one; the river being very smooth; the -trip was pleasant, although it was somewhat inconvenient for the women -and children, who were huddled up very close together. We were lucky -that the weather was so fine, therefore we had not the unpleasantness of -sea sickness. - -As we neared London, steamers and vessels of nearly every size became -more numerous; and the buzz of industry from the shore, with the -whistling of small steamers, the splashing of wheels, the clouds of -smoke, impressed us with the wondrous amount of traffic carried on -through this mighty highway of commerce. - -We reached Blackwall at one o'clock, and marched to Euston Station, the -women and children being sent in cabs, where we took the train at three -p.m., arriving at Weedon at 5 p.m., marched into barracks and joined -head-quarters which had been there before us. About this time Colonel -Styte got command of the regiment, an old Waterloo officer of great -skill in military details. The Town of Weedon, which is situated in the -centre of a wide and rich valley in one of the most beautiful counties -in England, was declared by all our soldiers, without one dissentient -voice, to be an exceedingly dull, stupid place. Not having much duty to -perform in this quiet garrison, we were kept continually at drill; in -the evenings the men had nothing to occupy their spare time except to -assemble in the public houses or canteen, and on Sunday, after church, -to walk out of town to a certain country tavern where they unfortunately -used to indulge in drinking and carousing. In the days in which I write, -those who entertained the idea of educating soldiers were laughed at as -visionary enthusiasts, whose schemes, if put into practice, would -entirely ruin and destroy the military spirit of the army; and few there -were among the commanding officers of regiments who possessed moral -courage enough to combat the general opinion, even if they differed from -the principle. Colonel Styte, however, the lieutenant-colonel of the -17th regiment of "Royal Tigers," was happily endowed with moral courage -in equal degree with his gallantry in the field, which secured for him -his present high position, and an honesty of mind and purpose he -possessed that was not usual with officers of his time. He had received -a wound at the Battle of Waterloo in his right arm, which entirely -disabled it, and it hung down by his side quite powerless. Not being -able to draw his sword, we had great sympathy for him, which he -appreciated very much. He had established an evening school for the -drummer boys of the regiment, and for such of the non-commissioned -officers and privates as chose to avail themselves of its advantage. The -colonel and a few of his brother officers raised a subscription in order -to provide the necessary books, and a school was established and well -attended, with most excellent results—valued by many of the best -disposed non-commissioned officers and men, and worked exceedingly well. -Regarding the drummer boys, their attendance was compulsory. The teacher -was a very gentlemanly, able man, and imparted his instructions in a -very painstaking manner, which caused many of the young soldiers to -attend his school willingly, and try to advance themselves by his -instructions. - -Nothing in the regiment gave me more pleasure than attending, and the -progress I made during our term served to advance my prospects of -promotion in after years, which I most gratefully remember. - -We were stationed in this quiet town for three months when we got orders -to proceed to Castlebar, a town in the west of Ireland, and about one -hundred and sixty miles from Dublin. - -[1] The Albert Memorial, Hyde Park, has been erected since. - - -[Illustration] - - - - -[Illustration] - -CHAPTER VIII. - - LIVERPOOL—EMBARK FOR DUBLIN—THE VOYAGE—ARRIVAL—MARCH—THE - TRAIN—THE MARCH TO CASTLEBAR—ARRIVAL—ELECTION—ROUTE TO GALWAY. - - -May 9th, 1850.—The regiment was formed on the barrack square, right in -front, marched to the railway station, the band playing at the head of -the regiment, accompanied by a large number of the townspeople, with -whom we were popular, and who gave us three hearty cheers as the train -moved from the station at 10 o'clock a.m. During the journey the train -stopped sufficiently long enough at different stations to enable us to -partake of refreshments. - -Arriving in Liverpool at 4.30, formed up at the station and marched -through the main street down to the docks, with fixed bayonets, the band -playing "British Grenadiers," where we embarked at 5.30 p.m. At six -o'clock the steamer moved off slowly from the dock, the band playing -"Come back to Erin" when we were cheered by the crowd from the quay. - -We had a remarkable fine passage, although the boat rolled and pitched a -good deal with the long swell from south-west, and we suffered but -little discomfort beyond what invariably attends 900 men, 40 women and -children who are imprisoned for the time being, with the fear of being -drowned. Several of the women and children were sea-sick; but as for the -men, their will conquered their stomach, and they were not sick, -although many of them looked very pale and squeamish. Hoping to enter -port in the morning, I was early on deck; we were already in sight of -land; on the right the long low line of the Irish coast was visible -scarcely raised above the level of the sea. Not far ahead the outline -and prominent feature of the Hill of Howth stood out before us on the -right with its light-house; my heart beat high with joy as my eye caught -the first glimpse of the land of my birth, "my own native land." - -The city, that at first looked like a white line on the coast, began -apparently to lift itself upwards and assume definite form and shape, -the houses and spires standing out more distinctly. On the left we saw -Kingston, with the grand Wicklow mountains in the background completing -the picture,—indeed the Bay of Kingston is said to be one of the most -beautiful in the world. Now we pass the lighthouse on the left, which -stands at the end of a long pier at the entrance of the bay, close to -the Pigeon House, where there are strong fortifications. We are moving -up slowly among the shipping, arriving at the north-wall at six o'clock -a.m. The order was given to disembark immediately, when huge swarms of -red coats assembled on deck, buzzed and bustled about, actively -preparing to disembark in good order, and fall in by companies on the -quay. On the bugle sounding the whole fell in, and were inspected by the -Colonel. All being correct, we marched off by fours with fixed bayonets -and band playing, along the Liffy to the Western Railway station, -"Broadstone," accompanied by an immense crowd of spectators. We took the -train at eight o'clock for Mullingar, arriving there at ten—sixty miles -in two hours—and were billeted on the taverns and public houses. -Previous to being dismissed we were formed up at quarter distance -column, in front of the principal hotel, Mr. Murray's, where the Colonel -stayed, when he charged the men to conduct themselves in their billets -in a soldierlike manner, and never bring discredit on the corps through -their misconduct among the inhabitants; non-commissioned officers were -ordered especially to look after the men's interests, and call the roll -at tattoo: he at the same time ordered parade with arms and -accoutrements at five o'clock p.m., after which the men were marched to -their different billets by their respective non-commissioned officers, -where we were received with "ceade-mille-failtha" by the landlords, who -had dinner ready for us in right Irish fashion, according to -instructions received from the "Billet-master." After dinner we were -employed in getting our appointments clean and ready for parade. At the -appointed time the regiment paraded at the former place, rolls called, -and companies inspected by their respective captains. During the parade, -the bands "discoursed sweet music" in front of the hotel. After the -reports were collected, and all reported present by the Adjutant, the -Colonel gave the command, "fix bayonets, shoulder arms, left wheel into -line, quick march, halt, dress," the Major giving the word "steady," -when the line was dressed; after which the Colonel opened the ranks and -inspected the whole line (the band playing during the inspection), -breaking into open column right in front, and then dismissed. - -A large crowd of town and country people were looking on in amazement; -one would have thought they never saw a regiment on parade before, their -admiration was so great. - -After going to our billets, the men dressed for the evening in their -shell-jackets, forage-caps, and waist-belts, cane in hand, and were soon -scattered in all directions among the civilians, who soon made their -acquaintance, and pledged their fellowship with creature comforts in the -public houses. - -"Reveillé" sounded at five o'clock, when we were on the alert, got -breakfast at six, and were on parade at seven. After the companies were -inspected, the Colonel again addressed them, telling the men the -consequence and penalty of getting drunk on the line of march; after -which he sent off the advanced guard, and told off the rear and baggage -guards. The women, with their children, that could not afford a -side-car, had to ride on the baggage waggon. After these preliminary -arrangements were made, we marched off, the band playing "Patrick's -Day;" the people gave three cheers on parting. After we got well out of -town, we were allowed to march at ease, talk, smoke, and sing. We were -quite fresh on starting, but after we had accomplished about five or six -miles we began to feel the weight of a full kit, arms, accoutrements, -haversack and sixty rounds of ammunition in our pouches, with a thick, -stiff leather stock, and coatee buttoned up tight around our neck, with -a heavy shacko. The weather being warm and roads dusty, we began to get -somewhat tired and thirsty. We were halted close to a small village, -where we procured some buttermilk from the peasants, who gave it -willingly. I went into a house and asked for a drink of water, when the -old woman brought me a large noggin of buttermilk, saying, "Dhrink this -acushla, it's bether nar cauld wather for ye on the road." I offered her -some coppers, but she refused, saying, "No, I thank you, sur; do you -think I would take pay from a poor sojer for a drop o' buttermilk? the -sorrow bit thin; I wish it was bether, it's myself that would give it -ye." - -After getting refreshed we started on again; we had nine miles more to -march before we got to Ballymore, where we were to be billeted for the -night; we had frequent halts for a few moments at a time, during the -remaining nine miles, when the people brought us noggins of buttermilk. -As we resumed the march, the band struck up "Patrick's Day," which well -repaid the people for the buttermilk, and several of them accompanied us -for miles along the road. - -Arrived at Ballymore at two o'clock, when we were told off to our -respective billets. This is a very wretched small town, with only three -public houses; most of the men were billeted in private houses, the poor -people were hard pressed to find room for us, but we were tired and not -very particular, as long as we got some place to stretch ourselves. -After arriving at our billets, dinner, such as they had, was ready for -us; tea and coffee there was none, but instead there was an abundance of -bacon, cabbage, and potatoes, which we washed down with plenty of new -milk. After satisfying the cravings of the inner man with these -substantials, we felt we should like to try a drop of good Irish -whiskey, made up a subscription and sent our host out for the "crater." -After partaking of this luxury, so long unknown, in which the landlord -joined in a sociable manner, we turned out for parade, when we were -inspected by captains of companies and dismissed. - -We had supper at six, oat-cakes, potato-cakes, and new milk, and soon -after we were in the land of dreams, well tired from our march. Reveillé -was sounded at five next morning, arousing the hitherto quiet village, -when we were all on the alert; got breakfast of bacon, eggs, potatoes -and milk, falling in for parade at seven, marching off with the band -playing "Patrick's Day," which caused the people to shout and cheer. -After a long march of sixteen miles we reached Athlone at two o'clock, -dismissed to our billets, where dinner was ready according to -instructions received in advance. - -My wife fared much better to-day than yesterday. I had procured for her -a seat on a side-car with the hospital serjeant's wife, by paying half -the expense of the car. This is a good sized town, large barracks and -strongly-fortified, on the Shannon, dividing Leinster from Connaught. We -fared well here and got good billets. To-morrow will be Sunday; we will -halt. We were allowed to indulge in a good sleep on Sunday morning, -nothing to do before ten o'clock, only to get breakfast of ham and eggs; -church parade in front of O'Rourk's hotel, where we were inspected and -marched off to our different places of worship, the band playing, -causing great crowds of people to assemble and accompany us to church. -After dinner the men walked out in full dress; there were crowds of -people and plenty of whiskey drunk during the day and night; great -excitement to see so many soldiers in the town. At tattoo that night one -corporal and six privates were confined, the corporal for being drunk, -and the privates for minor offences. In the morning the six privates -were reprimanded, and the corporal sent back for a court-martial on -arrival at Castlebar. - -We were on the march at seven o'clock, the band playing Patrick's Day -and Garry Owen, as we marched out of town, cheered by the crowd. We were -in good spirits, for every fellow had a parting glass with the landlord -before parting, besides we were getting accustomed to the march. After a -march of fifteen miles we arrived in Castleblakeney at two o'clock. This -is a small town like Ballymore. During the march to Castlebar, we always -started at seven every morning, and paraded at five every evening for -inspection. - -Next day at two o'clock, we reached Tuam, a fine town, where Archbishop -McHale and Bishop Plunket reside, where we were billeted that night, -marching as usual in the morning: next night at Holymount, arriving at -Castlebar on Thursday, the 18th May, 1850, where we were to be stationed -till further orders, accomplishing a journey of about one hundred miles -in seven days. On arriving we were shown our quarters; bed filling at -the barrack stores, and cleaning our appointments after the long march, -occupied the remainder of the day. - -The following day commanding officer's parade in heavy marching order at -ten a.m., when we were minutely inspected and dismissed. We had good -barrack accommodation and easy duty, the men getting ten nights in bed -between guards. After we had been here a few days, we became aware of -the fact that a contested election for a member of parliament was to -take place in about three weeks, and we found great excitement among the -people; the committee of each candidate were holding meetings and -canvassing for their party; many rows took place between them, the -public houses were continually crowded, police were brought here from -distant stations, and, as the day of polling drew near, the excitement -increased. On the day of voting two troops of cavalry arrived, and we -were under orders to turn out at a moment's notice. On the morning of -the election, the grenadiers and light company were drawn up in line on -each side of the square fronting the court-house, with the two troops of -cavalry. The voting commenced at ten o'clock; the police were all formed -ready to pass the voters in and keep the crowd back, the voters were -brought in from the country on sidecars, guarded from the mob by a -policeman on each side of the car. - -The people were very roughly used at first by the police, which raised -their wrath, when they rushed with immense force on the police and -thoroughly defeated them, forcing them to retreat to the lines of the -military for protection. Having effected this object the crowd retained -their position, but did not attempt to assault the soldiers, though -their shouts of defiance to the police rose loud and long. The police -were ordered to advance again and seize the ringleaders; they obeyed -very reluctantly, but being assaulted with sticks and stones their -individual courage was excited, and they rushed to chastise the mob, who -again drove them back in greater disorder than before, and a nearer -approach to the soldiers was made by the crowd in the scuffle which -ensued. The police were again ordered to charge the mob, when a more -serious scrimmage arose, sticks and stones were used with more effect, -and the parties being nearer to each other, the missiles intended only -for the police overshot their mark and struck some of the soldiers, who -bore their painful position with admirable fortitude, although their -patience was sorely tried to stand a target for the mob, but a soldier's -duty is to obey orders in whatever shape they come from his officers, -and therefore they had to put up with rough usage. The mob were now -furious and the magistrate had to read the Riot Act before the soldiers -could attempt to quell the disturbance; at last the military were -ordered to fire, the captain giving the command, "with ball cartridge, -load, ready, present, fire," the men were previously cautioned in an -under tone of voice to fire over the people's heads. - -This had the desired effect; the crowd dissolved as the muskets were -brought to the present, after which they gave three cheers for the -soldiers and down with the "peelers." - -This act brought the soldiers into high esteem with the populace. The -business of the interior was now suspended for a time by the sounds of -fierce tumults, which arose after the soldiers had discharged the -volley; some rushed from the court-house to the platform, and beheld the -mob in a state of great excitement. A popular candidate now stood -forward on the platform and was greeted with fresh cheers. He waited -till the uproarious cheering died away, and then addressed them in a few -words touching their nationality and the honour of their country. - -After which the crowd gave him three hearty cheers, and quiet was -restored, when the troops were marched into barracks, but kept in -readiness should another row commence; but happily all were peaceable -afterwards, although much excitement with plenty of whiskey continued -for several days after, in which several of the soldiers joined. - -After the election, our men were highly respected by the inhabitants; -the old women brought the men bottles of "potheen whiskey" in their milk -cans. The sergeant on the gate not suspecting any smuggling, saw nothing -but milk in the can—but if he had searched the can he would have found -a black bottle of the real "mountain dew" at the bottom. - -After being stationed here three months we got the route for Galway, a -town situated at the mouth of Lough Corrib; it is the west terminus of -the Midland Great Western Railway, and 117 miles west of Dublin. - - -[Illustration] - - - - -[Illustration] - -CHAPTER IX. - - THE MARCH—GALWAY—CAPTAIN BOURCHIER—DETACHMENT—REGATTA—ROW WITH - THE POLICE—ROUTE TO GALWAY—MAJOR BOURCHIER EXCHANGES—CAPTAIN - CROKER—CLADDAGH—ATTEND A CAMP MEETING—THE CITY OF GALWAY— - THEATRE—ROUTE TO DUBLIN. - - -August 26th, 1850, at 7 a.m., we marched out of Castlebar; the -townspeople accompanied us for some distance and gave us three hearty -cheers on parting. We marched sixteen miles that day, and were billeted -at Holymount. Previous to this, Captain Bourchier had applied for leave -of absence for three months, which reached him here, when he started for -England after bidding the company good-bye, and handing it over to -Lieutenant Coulthurst. We all suspected that he was going to be married -during his absence, which proved to be a fact, for on his return to the -regiment in November he brought his wife with him. - -Next morning we were on the march again, and after fifteen miles, -arrived at Tuam, where we were billeted for the night, arriving in -Galway at two o'clock p.m. the following day, after a tiresome march of -eighteen miles. The grenadiers and light company, with four others, were -stationed at the Shamble Barracks, and four companies at the Castle. -Most of the officers stayed at Mackilroy's Hotel, in the Market Square -or "Green," as it was called, where they remained until their quarters -were ready for their reception. After our arrival, we all turned out to -fill our beds with straw at the barrack store as usual. Duty here was -easy, having only three guards to furnish, which consisted of two -sergeants, three corporals, and twenty-four privates daily, but we were -kept continually at drill, either commanding officer's, adjutant's, or -sergeant-major's. The only time we had to call our own was from supper -till tattoo. - -During Captain Bourchier's absence from the regiment he had been -promoted to Brevet Major, and on his return about the thirtieth of -November, he brought a beautiful bride back with him to share his -military honours. He rented a comfortable house in one of the -aristocratic terraces of Salt Hill Road, in the suburbs of the town. At -Christmas he treated the company to a good dinner and a barrel of ale to -wash it down, when we drank towards his and his lady's health and -happiness, and wished them many returns of the season. - -On the 30th January, 1851, I had an increase in my family, for a boy was -born to me. We had him christened Thomas Henry, Thomas after my father, -and Henry after my wife's father. - -Our company was under orders for detachment at Banagher, a small -fortified garrison town on the River Shannon, and thirty miles south of -Galway. - -May 1st, 1851, our company was formed on the barrack square, inspected -by the Colonel, and after a few words of fatherly advice from him, we -marched up High Street, accompanied outside the town by the band, -playing Irish airs. We had thirty miles to march, which we accomplished -in two days. We marched through Oranmore, Athenry, and were billeted in -Ballinasloe one night, passing through Eyrecourt, arriving in Banagher -next day at three p.m. These barracks are sufficient to accommodate -about one hundred and fifty men, situated within a fortification which -commands a bridge that spans the Shannon, and connects King's County -with the County Galway. This part of the country is celebrated for -fishing, shooting, and boating, and Portumna Lake, about fourteen miles -from here, is famous for regattas, which our three officers, viz., Major -Bourchier, Lieutenant Coulthurst and Ensign Williams, availed themselves -of during our time of duty at this station. They purchased a yacht, a -four-oar gig, and a duck boat, from their predecessors. They also hired -one Jack, the boatsman, to take care of the yacht and boats, and -accompany them when required. They frequently took a man or two of the -company with them when on sailing excursions to work the yacht, which we -enjoyed very much. - -The Major, Ensign Williams, "Jack," and myself, went to a regatta at -Portumna, a distance of fourteen miles, in the four-oared gig; we rowed -down the river very fast, arriving there at twelve o'clock, in time for -the first race. The officers were invited on board one of the -gentlemen's yachts, which was to sail in the match, "Jack and I" were -left in charge of the gig. After the race the officers returned at nine -o'clock, p.m., when we started to row back to barracks; after we got -eight miles, we came to a lock which was open as we passed through going -down in the morning, but now it was shut, and we had no alternative but -carry our boat to the other side of the lock. This being done, we took a -drink of "potteen" which we had in the boat to cheer us up. After -refreshing ourselves we started again with renewed vigour. In going down -in the morning we thought nothing of rowing fourteen miles with the -stream, but now going back against it was quite a different affair, the -stream ran so very swift, and we had hard work to make headway against -it. However, with good pluck and a drop out of the bottle of "potteen," -now and then, we braved the stream and reached barracks at two o'clock -in the morning. Scarcely a day passed without a boating, fishing, or -shooting excursion of some kind. This makes it a very pleasant station, -and besides, the town has a clean, neat and tidy appearance, compared -with some towns we have seen in Ireland, and can boast of one decent -hotel, "Mann's Hotel," besides several public houses with skittle alleys -attached, which places of amusement several of our men patronized. Two -of the company had an altercation with two or three of the police at one -of these places, when the latter tried to take the two soldiers to the -police station; this the soldiers objected to, whereupon a row ensued, -then several more police joined and were forcing the soldiers off, when -their comrades in barracks, having been warned of the row by some -person, rushed out of barracks with naked bayonets in hand, rescued the -two soldiers and beat the police, driving the whole force out of the -town and chasing them through the country, where they skedaddled and hid -in the potato fields. Several of the police got hurt, but not very -seriously. Our company and the police never could agree after that row, -but they never again attempted to take any of our men to the -station-house. About a month after the row with the police, we got -relieved by No. 6 company from head-quarters. - -On the 27th October we marched out of barracks at two o'clock, p.m., as -the relieving company marched in. After a march of sixteen miles we -arrived in Ballinasloe at seven o'clock in the evening, where we were -billeted for the night. The railway, which was in course of construction -as we passed here _en route_ to Banaghar, being now finished and the -train running on it, we took the train at eleven o'clock, a.m., arriving -at Galway Station at twelve, where we were met by the band, which -marched at the head of the company down Main Street, playing the -"British Grenadiers" as we marched into the Shamble Barracks. One month -after this, Major Bourchier had exchanged to the 54th Regiment, which -was in the East Indies. The night previous to his departure his brother -officers of the regiment entertained him as their guest at the mess, -where they all expressed deep sorrow at his leaving, and his loss to the -regiment. After bidding the men good-bye, he left for India, taking with -him the best wishes and prayers for his future welfare, especially of -his own company, the grenadiers, to whom he had ever been a father -during his command. Many of the men accompanied him to the railway -station to see him off; need I say we lost a friend. - -Captain John Croker, a Limerick man, not only the tallest officer in the -regiment (height 6 feet 4 ins.) but now the senior captain, who formerly -belonged to No. 8 company, now got command of the grenadiers, vice -Captain Bourchier promoted. Galway has a population of about 25,000; the -old town is poorly built and irregular, and some of its old houses have -the Spanish architecture, easily accounted for by the great intercourse -which at one time subsisted between Galway and Spain. The new town -consists of well planned and spacious streets, built on a rising ground -which slopes gradually towards the harbour; its suburbs are very -wretched—collections of wretched cabins—inhabited by a poor class of -people; one of these suburbs called the Claddagh is inhabited by -fishermen who exclude all strangers and live perfectly amongst -themselves, electing their king, etc., and ever marrying within their -own circle. These fishermen still speak the grand old Celtic language, -and the old Irish costume is still worn by the women—open gowns and red -petticoats. - -They annually elect a mayor, whose functions are to administer the laws -of their fishery, and to superintend all internal regulations. One of -these fishermen's sons took a great liking to the soldiers, and -frequently came into the barracks to see us at drill. He was about 6 -feet 4 ins. in height, and a powerfully built young man of eighteen -years old. He applied to the sergeant-major to enlist. He took him -before the Colonel who approved of him when he was enlisted in the 17th -Regiment; his name was Paddy Belton. His father came and tried to get -him off, but it was no use, he had his mind made up, and wished to be a -soldier. After getting his uniform on, he invited a comrade and myself, -to a "camp" in his village, which is a contest of skill, or competition -for priority—a display of female powers at the spinning of yarn. It is -indeed a cheerful meeting of the bright fair girls; and although strong -and desperate rivalry is the order of the day, it is conducted in a -spirit so light-hearted and friendly that I scarcely know a more -interesting or delightful amusement in a country life. When a "camp" is -about to be held the affair soon becomes known in the neighbourhood; -sometimes young women are asked, but in most instances so eager are they -to attend that invitations are unnecessary; in winter time and in -mountain districts, it is often as picturesque as pleasant. - -The young women usually begin to assemble at four o'clock in the -morning; and as they always go in groups, accompanied besides by their -sweethearts, or some male relative, each of the latter bearing a large -torch of well dried bog-deal, their voices, songs and laughter break -upon the stillness of the morning with a holiday feeling, made five -times more delightful by the darkness of the hour. The spinning wheels -are carried by the young men, amidst an agreeable volley of repartee. -From the moment they arrive the mirth is fast and furious, nothing is -heard but laughter, conversation, songs, and anecdotes, all in a loud -key; among the loud humming of spinning wheels, and the noise of reels, -as they incessantly crack the cuts in the hands of the reelers who are -perpetually turning them from morning till night, in order to ascertain -the quantity which every competitor has spun; and whoever has spun the -most wins the "camp," and is queen for the night. At the conclusion of -the "camp," we all repaired to a supper of new milk and flummery, which -was most delicious. This agreeable meal being over, we repaired to the -dancing-room, where Mickey Gaffey, the piper, was installed in his own -peculiar arm-chair of old Irish oak; a shebeen man, named Barney O'Shea, -had brought a large jar of potteen to cheer the boys' hearts for the -occasion, of which they freely partook, when the dancing commenced. It -is not my intention to enter into a detailed account of the dancing, nor -of the good humour which pervaded amongst them; it is enough to say that -the old people performed cotillons, and the young folks jigs, reels, and -country dances; hornpipes were performed upon doors (the floor being of -earth) with the greatest skill. My comrade and myself enjoyed the dance, -which was kept up all night, taking a drop of potteen between the -dances, to keep our spirits up by pouring spirits down. Our leave was up -at six o'clock in the morning, and we had to report ourselves not later -than that hour to the sergeant of the quarter guard, so we left the -dance at four o'clock, got to barracks before six, gave in our passes to -the sergeant, and were just in time for morning drill, when we drilled -till a quarter to eight o'clock, I can assure you with aching heads -after the potteen. - -The principal buildings in Galway are, the Queen's College, which was -just opened a year before our arrival there; among the other edifices -are three monasteries and five nunneries, Smith's College, the -court-house and barracks, with the grand old Church of St. Nicholas. It -has numerous flour, and other mills, also breweries, and distilleries. -Extensive salmon and sea fishing are carried on here. - -The bay is a large expanse of water about eighteen miles broad at its -seaward extremity, diminishing to about eight miles inland, and being -about twenty miles long. It is protected from the swell of the Atlantic -by the Arran Isles. South-west from Galway to the sea is the district -called Connemara, which contains vast bogs, moors, loughs and marshes, -which present a bleak and dreary aspect. Galway abounds in ancient -remains of Celtic as well as of the Norman period; cromlech and monastic -ruins are found in several parts of the county. - -A very fine specimen of this class is that of Knockmoy, near Tuam, -besides several round towers. The officers amused themselves both -fishing and shooting when off duty; they frequently could be seen with -rod and line landing a large sized salmon, on the banks of the river, -and another officer coming into the barracks in the evening with his dog -and gun, with his bag well filled with game after his day's sport. - -Besides these enjoyments they organized an amateur dramatic company, -with Lieutenant Lindsay, Lieutenant Coulthurst and Ensign Williams at -its head, with the band and a few smart non-commissioned officers and -privates; which was well patronised by the officers and their ladies, -besides several of the nobility and gentry of the town and any of the -soldiers who wished to attend. This brought round the best of feeling -between the regiment and inhabitants, and produced excellent results. - -We had been for some time looking out for an order for Dublin. Our -expectations were fulfilled on the fifteenth of March, by the Colonel -receiving a large official envelope containing the route for the 17th -regiment to proceed by rail on the 28th March, 1852, to Dublin, there to -be stationed and do garrison duty till further orders, to be quartered -in the Richmond Barracks. The order having been read to the regiment, -the news soon spread to the creditors in the town, when could be seen -tailors, shoemakers, hatters, bakers, grocers, and liquor merchants, all -rushing into the barracks looking for their debtors. - -Notwithstanding the credit of the regiment having been cried down on our -arrival, many tradespeople had given credit to several parties, which -they now were trying to collect; but all those who cannot collect it -now, the first tap of the big drum will pay them, when we march out of -town. - - "How happy is the soldier who lives on his pay, - And spends half a crown out of sixpence a day." - -We had fifteen days to get ready, which were occupied in cleaning -barracks, filling nail holes, and white-washing, to obviate as much as -possible that curse, barrack damages, which always follows a regiment -from one barrack to another. - - -[Illustration] - - - - -[Illustration] - -CHAPTER X. - - THE MARCH—RAIL TO DUBLIN—ARRIVAL—GARRISON DUTY—CASTLE GUARD—THE - OLD MAN'S HOSPITAL—DIVINE SERVICE—TENT-PITCHING—DEATH OF THE "IRON - DUKE"—THE FUNERAL—THE QUEEN VISITS DUBLIN—BUILDINGS AND - INSTITUTIONS—THE ROUTE. - - -March 28th, 1852, the regiment was formed on the Barrack Square, at six -o'clock a.m., in heavy marching order, full kits in our packs: the -companies minutely inspected and told off by their respective captains; -reports collected by the adjutant, when all reported present to the -Colonel, who then gave the command "fours rights, quick march," when -they stepped off, the companies wheeling to the right out of the gate, -the band striking up "Patrick's Day," playing up the main street. During -the inspection the barrack-gate had been besieged by a large crowd of -town's people, who accompanied the regiment to the railway station, -where we were joined by the two companies from the Castle. While getting -the regimental baggage, women, and children on the train, the band -discoursed some sweet music, causing frequent cheers from the crowd. At -length all was ready, when a wild scream from the engine was heard, and -the train moved out slowly from beneath the vaulted roof of the station, -amid cheer after cheer from the populace, who were assembled in large -numbers to see us off; the band playing during the slow departure of the -train from the station, and the men waving their handkerchiefs, in -response, from the carriage windows. At last the train quickened the -speed, and soon station and crowd faded from our view. We were scarcely -an hour in our seats—and viewing the country as the train sped along, -and admiring the beautiful green fields, hills and valleys interspersed -with running streams, the peasantry gazing in wonder, and the country -girls waving their handkerchiefs as the long train of soldiers passed -them by—when a shrill whistle from the engine was heard, and then, with -much noise, and many a heavy sob, the vast machine swept smoothly into -the station at Ballinasloe. - -There were, formed in line on the platform, the companies from -detachment at Banagher and Portumna, waiting our arrival to join -head-quarters. The train stopped at this station twenty minutes, when -the two companies came on board. All being ready, the train moved off -again, soon reaching Athlone, where we stopped fifteen minutes. Here we -got refreshments—a glass of beer and a biscuit, which we enjoyed, -having breakfasted at five that morning. About an hour after we were in -Mullingar, stopping fifteen minutes, when we started again. We are -rapidly leaving Mullingar behind. The fields gradually assume a green -and spring-like aspect. This part of the country is highly cultivated. -Occasionally a small village in the valley, by some running stream, or -upon the hill side, gives life and charm to the landscape. The Royal -Canal runs alongside of the railway all the way from Dublin to -Mullingar, and unites the Liffy with the Shannon in the west. - -As I was viewing the beauty of the landscape, the engine gave a loud and -long whistle, which reminded me we were close to the city. Now we can -see Wellington's monument, in Phœnix Park; arriving at the station at -one o'clock, after a ride of one hundred and thirty miles, when we were -met by the band of the 39th Regiment, who played at the head of the -Regiment to Richmond Barracks. On arrival we were told off to our -different barracks. - -These are splendid, large, airy barracks, sufficient for two regiments, -with good officers' and staff quarters, but bad for married soldiers, -who have to rent apartments outside. - -The military force in Dublin then consisted of the 11th Hussars, Island -Bridge Barracks; 17th Lancers, Royal Horse Artillery and Foot Artillery, -Portobello; 2nd Dragoon Guards, 27th Regiment, Royal Barracks; 32nd -Light Infantry, Ship Street and Linen Hall Barracks; 39th and 17th -Regiments, Richmond Barracks; besides depôts at Beggars' Bush; the whole -under the command of Major-General Sir Edward Blakeley, whose quarters -were in the Old Man's Hospital, near Phœnix Park. - -The regiments furnish the duties in their turn. In garrison orders of -the 30th, the 17th Regiment were detailed to furnish the whole of the -duties on the following day, viz:—The Castle Guard, one captain, one -subaltern, two sergeants, and twenty-four privates; Lower Castle, one -sergeant, one corporal and six privates; Vice-Regal Lodge, one sergeant, -two corporals and eighteen privates; Old Man's Hospital, one sergeant, -two corporals, and twelve privates; Kilmainham, one corporal, and three -privates; Arbour Hill Hospital, one sergeant, one corporal and twelve -privates; Magazine, one sergeant, one corporal and six privates; -Mountjoy, one corporal and six privates; Island Bridge, one sergeant, -one corporal and twelve privates; Picture Gallery, one corporal and -three privates; Bank of Ireland, one subaltern, one sergeant, one -corporal and twelve privates; Richmond, one sergeant two corporals and -twelve privates. - -These guards, with the regimental guards, assemble daily (Sundays and -wet days excepted), on the Esplanade, at ten p.m., when they are -trooped, the junior officer of the Castle Guard carrying the colours -during the trooping. The regiment who furnishes the duties for the day, -also furnishes the band, which plays during the trooping of the colours, -when crowds of spectators assemble to witness this military review. -After they march past in slow and quick time, the guards are formed on -their commanders, when they are marched off to their respective guards -by the field officer of the day. Relieving the Castle Guard is a very -imposing sight, and hundreds of people assemble to witness this military -performance, as well as to hear the sweet martial music while the guards -are relieving. Before the old guard marches off the new guard plants its -colours in the centre of the Castle yard, with a sentry over them. Two -sentries are posted at the gate of the Castle yard, and two on the door -of the Castle, under the portico. All the sentries of the old guard -having been relieved, the guard is marched off by its captain, the -subaltern carrying the colours, when the new guard salutes by presenting -arms, after which the new guard takes the place of the old; the relief -being told off, they are dismissed to the guard-room. The guards take -their rations with them, which consists of three-quarters of a pound of -beef or mutton, one pound and a half of bread, one pound and a half of -potatoes and onions, one-eighth ounce of tea, quarter of an ounce of -coffee, two ounces of sugar, with pepper and salt to each man. There -being but one pot and pan in each guard-room they are kept, as you may -well imagine, in active work until six o'clock in the evening, every -relief boiling potatoes and making tea and coffee. - -I was detailed for the Old Man's Hospital, which is a large -establishment, and consists of the Major General's Quarters, the English -Church, where the troops from Richmond attend divine service, as well as -the "Old Pensioners," or "Old Fogies," as they are called. There are -quarters here for about eight hundred men; any pensioner can be admitted -who applies (married men excepted). They are required to pay in their -pension for their board and clothes; the latter consists of cloth -trowsers, red tunic, which comes down below the knee, and a Napoleon -hat. They have no duty to perform, only keep themselves and quarters -clean and tidy. They are all well satisfied and seem happy; chatting, -and fighting their battles over again. The grounds, walks, avenues, -shrubbery, kitchen-garden, and flower-beds around this institution show -the taste, cleanliness, and discipline of those old veterans whose home -it now is, provided by a grateful country. - -Being relieved from guard next day, we had kit inspection by the -commanding officer, accompanied by Major Cole, who had just joined. -Sunday, church parade at ten a.m.; being inspected, we were marched off, -the band playing through Kilmainham, to the Old Man's Hospital, where -the Protestants and Roman Catholics parted for the time. I, belonging to -the latter, marched to St. Mary's Church, on Arran Quay. As we marched -along the Liffy the sweet strains of music, which re-echoed along the -river from the different bands as they marched to church, caused a most -pleasant sensation, which raised our thoughts heavenward. It is deeply -to be regretted bands do not now play on Sundays, owing to the Puritan -objections. Strict military discipline, numerous general field-days and -reviews, drilling at tent-pitching in the nineteen acres, regimental -drills and parades, with five nights in bed, kept our men pretty well -employed. But the beautiful walks in Phœnix Park, and driving to the -strawberry beds on side-cars, with our sweethearts on Sunday afternoons, -together with theatres, concerts, museums, picture galleries, and the -scenery of the city, compensated us well for all our strict discipline, -and we were well pleased with Dublin as a military station. - -Now came a sad and mournful event to the army. The Duke of -Wellington—the Iron Duke, that noble and illustrious warrior and -statesman, whose glorious and eventful life, history relates and old -veterans remember—terminated this earthly career at the ripe age of 84 -years. This event, which took place suddenly and unexpected, occurred on -Tuesday, the 14th of September, 1852, after a few hours' illness, at -Walmer Castle his official residence. The intelligence of this mournful -event was received at the time with the deepest regret by the officers -and men of our regiment, and universal gloom pervaded throughout the -whole garrison. The hero of Salamanca, St. Sebastian, Quatre-Bras, -Ligny, and Waterloo, had paid the last debt. November the 1st, a general -order was issued directing one officer, one sergeant, and twelve rank -and file from each regiment in garrison to proceed, on the 8th inst., to -London, to take part in the funeral procession of the late Field -Marshal, His Grace the Duke of Wellington. Lieutenant W. H. Earle, -Sergeant Plant, and twelve rank and file (I being one of the latter), to -parade on the Esplanade, with the detachment from the other regiments in -garrison, when they were inspected by the General, and marched off, with -a field officer in charge, going on board a steamer at the North Wall, -at six o'clock p.m. We had on board about one hundred and fifty picked -men from these corps, I being the smallest man of the party, and I was -five feet eleven. The men vied with each other in a smart, soldier-like -appearance. All being ready, the Captain cried out, "all on board," when -the steamer moved out slowly from the quay, passed clear of the shipping -and Pigeon House Fort on the right, where detachments of our men -assembled, and gave us three cheers, waving their handkerchiefs, the -steamer rushed onwards, city and shore fading away, and nothing but -heavy clouds and water could be seen. The evening had an angry -appearance; darkness closed around; the sailors thought it looked like a -storm, but they were mistaken, although the vessel rolled and pitched -more than we thought agreeable. After a good deal of rolling and -pitching, with a frequent wave breaking over our bow, we steamed into -Liverpool docks at six o'clock in the morning, landed, got breakfast, -and marching to the railway station, took the train at 9 a.m. for -London. The engine gave the warning whistle, and we moved out of the -station, and were whirling onward towards London. The morning was -bright, invigorating and beautiful, the swift-winged train going -thundering along at the rate of forty miles an hour. After a ride of one -hundred and eighty miles in nine hours, we were set down at Euston -Station. While in London, we were quartered in Regent Park. On the -morning of the 13th of November, nothing could be more imposing than the -whole line of this melancholy procession; the day was fine, and the -appearance of the troops splendid. - -The streets were lined with cavalry and infantry, from the station to -St. Paul's Cathedral. At twelve o'clock the body arrived by rail from -Walmer Castle, escorted by a guard of honour. To detail the order of the -procession would occupy too much space here, suffice it to say, that the -cortege moved from the station, the bands playing the dead march, minute -guns firing, as it marched to St. Paul's Cathedral, where the body was -lowered into the crypt, close to the last earthly resting-place of the -heroic Nelson, waiting for the trumpet to turn-out. The funeral was one -of the most gorgeous and solemn spectacles that had ever before been -witnessed in England. - -This solemn duty being performed, we returned by rail next morning to -Liverpool, where we took the steamer at six p.m. for Dublin, arriving -there at six in the morning, after a rough passage, with several cases -of sea-sickness, when we marched to our respective barracks. - -The regiments in Dublin are changed from one barrack to another every -ten months; ours having been in Richmond the prescribed time, were -changed with the 63rd from the Royal Barracks. The first of April we -marched from Richmond, meeting the 63rd, when the junior saluted the -senior; the 17th being the older regiment, we had the honour of their -salute. On arrival, we were quartered in Palatine Square. The change we -hailed with pleasure, as it brought us closer to the amusements of the -city. Twelve men of each company were now armed with the Minié Rifle, -rather an improvement on Brown Bess, and proceeded to the Pigeon House -Fort, to go through a course of rifle instruction on the beach; this -course being finished, the rifles were handed over to twelve others, who -went through a course in the same manner, and so on, until the whole -regiment had gone through a course of rifle instruction. - -On the 1st of February, 1853, I had another increase in my family, for a -daughter was born. We had her christened at St. Mary's Church, Arran -Quay, Dublin. - -In the summer, the Queen and Prince Albert visited Dublin. A message -having been received that Her Majesty and the Prince were to land at -Kingstown, the grenadiers and light company were ordered to proceed by -rail from Westland Row Station to Kingstown, as a guard of honour. We -were formed in two lines facing inwards from the terminus to where the -Royal yacht was to come alongside, forming a passage which was spread -with a red carpet, for Her Majesty and the Prince to walk to the railway -carriage. We were standing there an hour when the Royal yacht was -descried in the distance, and as she steamed into the harbour, the ships -fired a royal salute. The yacht coming alongside the quay, we could see -Her Majesty and Prince Albert walking the deck. Her Majesty looked well, -and wore a plain plaid shawl, and seemed well pleased with the -reception. Soon after arrival, the Royal couple landed. As Her Majesty -stepped on shore, the guns of the fortresses belched forth a royal -salute; at the same time the bands played "God save the Queen." A -special train was in readiness, which conveyed the Royal couple and -guards of honour to Dublin, where they went in an open carriage to the -Vice-Regal Lodge, accompanied by several troops of cavalry. On the -occasion of Her Majesty and the Prince landing, many thousands of people -were present, and on the streets along the route to the Vice-Regal -Lodge, were immense crowds, who cheered and waved their hats, Her -Majesty and the Prince most carefully acknowledging their loyalty. Two -days afterwards, the troops in garrison were ordered to assemble in -review order at ten a.m., in the fifteen acres to be reviewed before Her -Majesty and Prince Albert. On the day appointed, the troops were marched -into the park, bands playing at the head of their respective corps -(accompanied by thousands of citizens), and were formed in line of -contiguous quarter distance columns facing the east, with the field -batteries on the flanks, and the cavalry in rear, at ten a.m. After -waiting a few minutes, Sir Edward Blakeney and his staff arrived, when -he deployed the troops into line. - -On the appearance of her Majesty on the ground the artillery fired a -royal salute, the infantry presenting arms, the bands playing "God save -the Queen." Her Majesty in an open carriage, drove down the front of the -line inspecting the whole, including the boys of the Hibernian School. -After the inspection the troops marched past Her Majesty in slow, quick, -and double time. The Queen seemed delighted with the marching past; -afterwards they were put through several field movements. As the Queen -was looking on, the crowd made a rush, determined to take off the horses -and to draw Her Majesty in her carriage. This Prince George took for an -attempt to assault her person, not understanding the character of the -Irish people, when he called out for the cavalry to form up; but when he -found that he mistook the people's loyalty, he apologized. This little -contretemps caused the Queen to smile at the mistake he had made, when -she drove off (well pleased with the review) to the Vice-Regal Lodge, -accompanied by an escort of cavalry. The troops were then marched to -their respective barracks, with their bands playing. On arrival in -barracks the grenadiers and light company were detailed for a guard of -honour to Her Majesty during her visit at the Vice-Regal Lodge, and be -encamped in front of the lodge in readiness to turn out at Her Majesty's -pleasure. After Her Majesty's departure the regiment was removed from -the Royal to Ship-street Barracks, with two companies at Linen Hall. We -also formed a guard of honour on the occasion of the Lord Lieutenant -opening the great Irish exhibition. The public buildings of Dublin are -famed for their number and grandeur. In the first class may be mentioned -the Bank of Ireland, formerly the House of Parliament; Trinity College, -the Custom House and the Four Courts, which, from the chasteness of -their design, and the massiveness of their proportions, have a very -imposing effect. Here, also we find monuments of William the Third, in -College Green; of Nelson, in Sackville Street; of the Duke of Wellington -in the Park, with several others. There are numerous places of -worship—Roman Catholic and Protestant—monasteries, convents, and a -Jewish synagogue. The most remarkable among the Protestant churches are, -Saint Patrick's Cathedral and Christ's Church, and among the Roman -Catholic, St. Mary's, St. Saviours, St. Augustine, and St. Kevin's. The -squares, which are very numerous, spacious, and well kept, are Stephen's -Green, which occupies an area of twenty acres, and a mile in circuit; -Merrion Square, the most aristocratic; the Trinity College Squares -occupy more than 40 acres; Rutland Square, with the Rotunda at the end -of Sackville Street. The environs of Dublin are especially beautiful. -Rathmines, a southern suburb, is a favourite residence of the wealthier -part of the mercantile community. Glasnevin, on the north, deserves -special notice, being the last resting place of the remains of Dan. -O'Connell, Curran, and Tom Steele. The Phœnix Park is a magnificent area -of nearly 2000 acres, having a large amount of timber, which shelter -immense herds of deer; it affords scope for military reviews, and is -most extensively used by the inhabitants for recreation. The Liffy is -crossed by nine bridges, two of which are iron, and throughout the whole -extent of the city, the banks of the river are faced with granite walls. - -At Christmas, our Captain, John Croker, treated the company to a barrel -of Guiness's porter; Lieutenants Coulthurst and Earle looked after the -sergeants and married men, in the way of several substantials at -Christmas, when we drank towards their health and wished them many -returns of the season. Winter here is very pleasant, not much drill, -visiting theatres and concerts in the evening. Our term here is short. -On the 16th February, 1854, we got the route for Templemore, a town 90 -miles south-west of Dublin. - - - - -[Illustration] - -CHAPTER XI. - - ARRIVAL AT TEMPLEMORE—THE ROUTE TO CORK—EMBARKATION FOR - GIBRALTAR—QUEENSTOWN—THE VOYAGE—STORM AT SEA—GIBRALTAR. - - -At ten a.m., after inspection by Colonel McPherson, C.B., who took -command of the regiment, vice Styte, who retired, we marched to the -Great Southwestern Railway station, the band playing the "British -Grenadiers," accompanied by crowds of people, who gave us three cheers -as the train moved from the station, the band playing "Auld Lang Syne," -and the men waving their handkerchiefs. After a run of one hundred miles -in three hours, we arrived in Templemore and marched to our respective -quarters. These barracks are built on the same plan as those at -Richmond, and large enough for two regiments. The town is small and -dull, but the country very pretty. We were here a little over two months -when we got the order to proceed to Cork by rail, on the 27th April, -there to embark on board two sailing transports, the "Dunbar" and -"Cornwall," two sister ships; the right wing to go in the latter, and -the left in the former. - -War with Russia having been declared on Friday, March the 28th, we all -agreed that, though ordered to Gibraltar, before many months would -elapse we would have the honour and glory of taking the field shoulder -to shoulder with those troops who had already embarked for the seat of -war in the East. - -April 27th, 1854. The regiment took the train at two p.m., arriving in -Cork at five p.m., distance one hundred miles, in three hours. On -arrival we were quartered in Cork Barrack that night, next morning we -were conveyed to the transports, which rode at anchor in Queenstown -harbour, by two small tug steamers. This harbour is unsurpassed for -capacity and safety; it is distinguished into upper and lower, the -latter is situated eleven miles below the city, three miles long by two -broad, and completely landlocked. Its entrance is by a channel two miles -long by one wide, defended on one side by forts Camden and Carlisle. The -upper portion extends for about five miles below the city to Passage; -within the harbour are several islands, the principal of which are, -Great Island, on which is situated the fortifications of Queenstown; -Spike Island, on which is a bomb-proof artillery barrack, and convict -depôt; Rocky Island, on which are powder magazines excavated in the -rock; each side of the harbour is richly planted with ornamental trees -and shrubs, studded with beautiful villas, cottages and terraces; and -Queenstown deserves special notice, for its magnificent suburban -residences of the gentry, interspersed with ornamental trees, well-kept -lawns and promenades, elegantly designed churches and chapels, red brick -buildings, splendid shops with large plate glass windows, and clean, -wide streets, with a fine view of the shipping in the harbour, make it -one of the most delightful places in Ireland. The climate being so -salubrious, it is much frequented by consumptive invalids. - -The right wing were all on board (except some married officers and their -families) when each company were shown their berths and mess-tables, -after which stowing of knapsacks commenced; the ship's officers were -busily engaged telling off the women and children to their berths in the -after part of the ship. On the upper deck everything was in confusion; -the ship's steward was getting his fresh supply of provisions on board -for the voyage, and the sailors stowing away in coops and pens, hens, -ducks and sheep; at last the deck was cleared, and things put -ship-shape. The rolls being called and all reported present, the watches -were then told off. The captain walking the quarter-deck, the sailors -and soldiers man the capstan, and the band ready to play, with a stiff -breeze off the land. At 3 o'clock p.m. the captain gave the order to -weigh anchor, when the band struck up "Rule Britannia," the sailors and -soldiers keeping time to the music, manning the capstan. As the anchor -was tripped, the sails were unfurled, and we ran out of the harbour, -amid cheers from the shore and shipping in the harbour, and were soon -bowling along with a stiff breeze on the bow (N.W.). The men were served -out with hammocks and one blanket, one tin plate, one panakin to each -man, one meat dish, one soup can for each mess; every mess had brought -their own pudding clothes. At five the tea bugle sounded, when the -orderly men repaired to the cook's-galley for the tea, and served it out -in the messes. After tea the men went on deck to smoke, chat, and wonder -if they were going to be sea-sick. At five thirty the ration bugle -sounded, when the orderly men proceeded to draw rations for next day, -which consisted of salt pork and beef, on alternate days, biscuits, -flour, raisins, currants, tea, sugar, cocoa, vinegar, mustard, pepper -and salt; they made the plum-pudding for dinner, tied it up ready to -boil after breakfast next day—so you see Her Majesty cares for her -gallant soldiers. The ship was skimming along with a stiff breeze on the -starboard bow, all sails set. At six o'clock the boatswain piped down -hammocks, when they were all swung, and as the last post sounded at nine -o'clock, they all managed to crawl into them. I was on watch from eight -to twelve; the wind had been increasing during the evening. I also -observed the sky had an angry appearance; the sailors were all busily at -work securing every sail and making all taut. The wind had changed in -the night and was now blowing hard in our teeth; it was a case of -tacking, and for landsmen a very trying affair; all night it blew a -gale, the wind still from the same quarter; in the night the sailors had -to shorten sail several times, each time the ship was brought round on -the other tack with a tremendous lurch, and mess tins, water kegs, and -tin dishes were dashed to the other side in frightful confusion. My -watch being relieved, I turned in at twelve, and with all the pitching -and tossing I slept soundly until I was awoke by the orderly sergeant -turning out the men to get their hammocks stowed on deck. When I went on -deck to put my hammock in the place appointed, the wind was still -blowing hard; I had to hold on to keep my footing; the whole sea was -alive, wave chasing wave and bounding over each other crested with foam. -Now and then the ship would pitch her nose into the waves even to the -bulwark, and dash the billows aside, and buoyantly rise again, bowling -along at ten knots an hour though under moderate sail. Breakfast at -eight o'clock of hard sea biscuits and cocoa; but many were on their -backs in sea-sickness. After breakfast all hands were ordered on deck -except the orderly men, who kept the mess in order and prepared the -meals. The wind was still very high and the long swells began to tell on -the men; the figure-head plunging as usual deeply into the water, and -the heads of some of our men hanging in agony over the gunwale and -portsill, in the horrors of sea-sickness. - -At the sound of the grog bugle at twelve, they all sprightened up, and -very few were absent from their half-gill of rum and two waters. When -the dinner of salt-beef and plum pudding was served, most of them made -appearance. After dinner the sun had shown through the clouds, and the -men gathered in groups on deck to smoke and chat. The progress of the -ship was a subject of interest; it was the first thing in the morning -and the last at night; and all through the day the direction of the -wind, the state of the sky, the weather, and the rate we were going at, -were the uppermost topics of the conversation. The ship was bounding -along very fast, and it was a fine sight to look up at the clouds of -canvas bellied out by the wind like the wings of a gigantic bird, while -the ship rushed through the water, dashing it in foam from her bows, and -always dipping her figure-head into the waves, sending up a shower of -spray. There was always something exciting in the ship, and the way in -which she was handled astonished us soldiers; for instance, to see the -top-gallant sails hauled down when the wind freshened, or a stay-sail -set as the wind went round to the east. The hauling in of the mainsail -on a stormy night was to be remembered for a life-time; twenty-four -sailors on the main-yard at a time, clewing in to the music of the wind -whistling through the rigging. The sailors sing out cheerily at their -work, the one who mounts the highest or stands the foremost on the deck -usually taking the lead, thus—they cheer up— - - "Haul in the bowlin', - I love you, Mary Nolan, - Haul in the bowlin', - Rollin' yo, heave ho." - -In comes the rope with a jerk until the "belay," sung out by the mate, -signifies that the work is right. Then there is a rush on the deck when -the wind changes, and the yards are to be squared as the wind comes more -aft. Being relieved at twelve I turned in and slept well until four -o'clock, when I was awoke by the watch holystoning the deck, under the -charge of the officer of the watch. I need scarcely explain that the -holystone is a large, soft stone, used with water for scrubbing the -decks. It rubs down with sand. The sand is washed off by water from the -hose, the pump being worked by four men, a man directing the nozzle of -the hose into every crevice; the force of the water washing every -particle of dirt from the hen-coops, sheep-pens and decks. The watch -always wash decks in their bare feet, their trowsers turned up above -their knees. After the decks are well washed down with water from the -hose, they are dried with swabs, and the deck looks as white as a -tablecloth; the boards brighten with the work, not a grease-mark or spot -of dirt is to be seen; all polished off with hand scrapers; the ropes -all neatly coiled man-of-war fashion, not a bight out of place, and the -brass-work polished and shining—hard work before breakfast. By six -o'clock the decks are all clean and dry and everything looking neat; at -nine o'clock the doctor ordered all the women and children on deck; the -sun shone through the clouds and all was pleasant, the ship running -along with close-reefed canvas. At sundown the wind changed round on her -larboard quarter from the north-west, and we were making good progress -across the Bay of Biscay; we were getting accustomed to the motion of -the ship, and many of the officers and men assembled on deck until a -late hour watching our course and looking for our port. On Sunday -morning the wind was blowing a gale; during the twenty-four hours we -made 190 miles. - -At ten o'clock we were all assembled on the main deck for Divine -service, which was read by the captain of the ship; the day was fine -with a stiff breeze; we were running before the wind at the rate of ten -knots an hour; we had slept well all night. Going on deck next morning, -I found the wind strong from the north, and the ship going through the -water at a splendid rate; as much sail was on her as she could carry, -and she was dashing along, leaving a broad track of foam in her wake. -There is no resting, but a constant pushing onward; and, as we look over -the bulwark, the waves tipped by the foam which the ship has raised seem -to fly behind us at a prodigious speed. At ten next morning we found the -ship's run during the twenty-four hours had been 200 miles—a grand -day's work, nearly equal to steam. We ran well before the breeze all -night, until about six in the morning, when the wind changed to our -starboard bow, and heavy dark clouds appeared in the distance, and the -wind dropped almost to a calm, the sails flapping against the mast all -day and night. - -Next morning the sailors were busy securing ropes and getting everything -ready; they said this calm was but weather breeding, and predicted that -we were to have a change. The glass was falling, and we were to look out -for squalls. They were not disappointed in their morning's expectations -of a gale. Before morning we had it in earnest. - -We, novices in sea life, thought we had a severe storm on Friday night, -but the sailors only laughed at us when we spoke of it. In our hammocks -below we knew that the wind was blowing a gale, that the ship was -pitching and tossing about fearfully, and could hear the boatswain's -whistle, and the sailors aloft reefing sails, and the waves breaking -clean over the deck above us. At two o'clock in the morning a heavy sea -struck our starboard side. The concussion seemed like striking against a -rock; some were thrown clean out of their hammocks; women and children -thrown from their berths, crockery smashed and boxes rattled, trunks, -water kegs, tin dishes, plates, pails, and every moveable article was -dashed with violence from one side of the ship to the other. - -Women and children screamed with fright, and men jumped from their -hammocks. For a few moments the ship stood perfectly still, as if -stiffened with the stroke, then she shivered from stem to stern, and the -timbers groaned and quivered; in a few moments more she was dashing -headlong onwards through the mountain of waves. I should think if there -were any on board who had never prayed before, they must have prayed -now. Both men and women vied with each other in the exchange of good -offices and friendly words. - -Envy was subdued, passionate wrath and revenge were forgotten, all acted -as men and women who were soon to stand in the presence of their God. -There was the pure steady and charming light of Christian hope and love -shining beneath the very shadow of death. It was a solemn and touching -thing to hear so many strong men acknowledge, in that hour of peril, -their utter helplessness, and praying Him who once lay on a pillow -asleep, "Lord save us we perish"—praying Him to abide with us. The -hatches were all canvassed and fastened down, so that none but the -sailors and the soldiers on watch could go on deck, the sea was washing -over the deck. That was indeed, an awful night, dark, chilling, and -drenching; hour after hour passed as we momentarily expected our doom. -The deck was continually washed over by great seas. As soon as morning -light appeared, I managed to get on deck, though with extreme -difficulty, both from dizziness and the motion of the ship. I was -determined to enjoy the fresh air and see how the ocean looked, lashed -into a tempest. I had to cling fast to keep my footing; the ship was -pitching up and down, tossed like a feather in the wind. We rode on huge -mountain billows of dark leaden colour, capped with molten glass and -tipped with silvery caps of foam. As I hung on to the rope, meditating -on the vastness of the ocean, and waves mountains high, my soul was -deeply impressed with the omnipotence and infinity of the God who -scooped out this mighty abyss, and filled it with those powerful waters. -He hath set them their bounds and says to them in their wildest -commotion, "thus far, and here shall thy proud waves be stayed." - -This dreadful storm raged all day, and the night was terrible; there was -no more distance nor space; the sky was turned into blackness, and shut -itself down upon the ship, nothing was any longer visible on this the -racecourse of the wind; we felt ourselves delivered over to a merciful -providence. The men, women and children had their second attack of -sea-sickness, even the sailors were sick. The storm raged all next day -(Sunday) and night; no one on board could get anything cooked as the -fires were all put out from the sea washing over the ship; even if they -could, few could eat,—they were all so sick. - - - THE VOYAGE TO GIBRALTAR. - - On the wide expanse of the stormy seas, - Our noble ship swept before the breeze, - Our gallant captain, when twelve days had run, - Tried with his sextant to take the sun. - - The heavy fog seemed still much worse, - Scarcely knowing where to lay his course, - And tried and tried the stormy main, - While heavy fog seemed to kiss the plain. - - The clouds they broke and showed the sky, - Placing the instrument to his eye, - The howling wind our course had fixed, - And marked the latitude at forty-six. - - An eastward course he then did try, - While billows they rose mountains high, - The captain's orders were to haul yards back, - And set the sails on starboard tack. - - The storm it rose a furious gale, - Which caused the landsmen's hearts to fail, - With deathly sick, as then the heaving ship - Rode high on billows, then her prow would dip. - - On the wave-washed deck with deep dismay, - The dizzy soldier feels the deck give way, - And tries in vain a last resource, - To catch a rope to stay him in his course. - - Rushing with nausea to the side, - Where the starboard watch at him did chide, - He holds on taut while feet give way, - And clings like death to portsill stay. - - But now the western winds the sails expand, - And soon the "look-out" reports he sees the land, - Where there before us in the vapours rolled, - The African mountains looming out so bold. - - T. FAUGHNAN. - - -Monday morning at four o'clock the wind changed on our larboard quarter, -and suddenly dropped. The boatswain piped all hands to square yards and -make sail; this order was hailed by the men, and it soon reached the -women, when they all offered up prayers and thanks to God for their -deliverance. - -The wind dropped considerably, and by twelve o'clock all was quiet, the -ship running steadily before the wind. - -The usual grog bugle sounded at twelve, when every man made his -appearance. At six in the evening the wind fell away altogether. This -repose after that fearful storm was an unspeakable blessing; all that -had been fury was now tranquillity; it appeared to us a sign of peace; -we could let go the rope or stay we were holding on by; the women and -children could stand upright and straighten themselves, and walk and -move about; we felt ourselves inexpressibly happy in the depths of this -heavenly change. All night was almost a dead calm, and it was a -blessing; we all slept well after the awful pitching and tossing we had -had the last three days. In the morning when I went on deck the sails -were flapping, and not a breath of wind. After breakfast the women and -children were ordered on deck, when the lower decks were thoroughly -scrubbed and cleaned, and when dinner bugle sounded they were allowed to -go below. After dinner the upper deck was washed and cleaned. Toward -evening the wind changed to our starboard and began to freshen; towards -morning we were running before the wind at nine knots an hour. At ten -o'clock a.m., I was agreeably surprised when I heard a sailor from the -masthead cry out, Land, ho! I found by our captain's eyes that the land -lay off our weather beam, but though I strained my eyes looking for the -land, I could see nothing. It was quite an hour before I could find it, -and then it looked more like a cloud than anything else. At length the -veil lifted, and I saw the land stretching away to the eastward, as we -neared it, and saw it more distinctly. It looked a glorious object to us -soldiers, though we were then ten or twelve miles off, yet the highest -peaks, which were above the clouds, some hundreds of feet high, were so -clear that they looked as if they had been stolen out of the "Arabian -Nights," or some fairy tale of wonder and beauty. - -The bluff and lofty headland of Cape St. Vincent, with its sharp -detached rock, white light-house, and adjacent convent skirting the edge -of the precipice, was the first land that I saw, as the ship bounded -upon our glorious waters of Trafalgar bay. All on board were quite -recovered of their sea-sickness, as the ship glided across wide bays and -along the indented coast of Spain. The ship had soon studding-sails set, -and she swept onward like some large bird of prey towards the straits. -Tarifa, famous in martial story with its low, flat-roofed houses, backed -by barren-looking, sun-scorched hills, was passed and all eyes were -turned on the tremendous scragged outline of the African coast rising -several thousand feet above the sea. The hazy morning light added to the -effect, throwing out in relief the broad stone face and picturesque form -of Ape's Hill, streaked with shadowy fissures, crevices and -indentations, which the scorching sun failed to touch. But the Spanish -side of the straits, through which the blue Mediterranean now became -visible, engrossed the larger share of our attention. There stood the -bold rock of Gibraltar, rearing its bald crest to the sky, a fit -sentinel at the gate of those waters which lave the shores of fallen, -but once mighty empires, now the key and glory of Old England. The ship -now hoisted her flags, which were immediately noticed at the signal -station, on the loftiest part of the range, where a flag-staff is -visible against the sky. Some of our officers who were on the rock -before, with the help of their telescope could trace many an old haunt. -They knew every path on those craggy heights. There was the town behind -the old Moorish walls, looking the same as ever; there was the Alameda, -the convent, and many other familiar domiciles, peeping from amogst -shrubberies and gardens. - -At five p.m. we cast anchor in the harbour of Gibraltar, when the ship -was besieged with bumboats of vendors in oranges, dates, lemons, figs, -and luxuries of almost every kind. Soon after a boat with a yellow flag -approached the ship; it was the health officer, who made inquiries of -our doctor as to sickness on board, and was answered "All right, No -sickness but sea-sickness," when he returned to shore, and afterwards a -staff officer appeared who informed the captain that he had got -"pratique," when the order to disembark at once was given. - - -[Illustration] - - - - -[Illustration] - -CHAPTER XII. - - THE LANDING—BARRACKS—GARRISON DUTY—OLD NORTH FRONT—SMUGGLING— - MARKET—QUEEN'S BIRTHDAY—THE DINNER—SPEECHES—THE ROUTE—THE - MARCH—EMBARKATION FOR THE CRIMEA—THE PARTING—THE VOYAGE—ARRIVAL - AT MALTA. - - -May 13th, 1854, at 6 p.m., the right wing formed in open column of -companies, right in front, on the New Mole, after a very rough passage -from Queenstown, and considering how the men were knocked about, they -looked remarkably clean and well. The band and pipers of the 92nd -Highlanders met us at the New Mole, and played alternately during the -march to the Casemate Barracks, where we were quartered, followed by a -crowd of Rock Scorpions, a motley crowd of English, Irish, Spaniards, -Italians, Jews, and Moors. Several soldiers from the garrison welcomed -us, and seemed pleased to see a fresh regiment arrive to share their -military duties. By two o'clock next day the "Dunbar" arrived with the -left wing. They landed at three o'clock and joined headquarters at the -Casemate Barracks, number six company proceeding to Catalan Bay on -detachment. - -The regiment was exempt from garrison duty next day, in order to get its -baggage in order, and settle down in their quarters. The following day -we found the whole of the garrison duties. The guards with their colours -are trooped every day at ten a.m. (Sundays excepted), on the Alameda, -under the field officer, assisted by the brigade major. I was detailed -for the Old North Front Guard, which consisted of one captain, one -subaltern, one sergeant, two corporals, and twenty-four rank and -file—the soldiers take their rations with them on guard. The officers -get their meals sent from the mess. - -The guard furnishes a chain of sentries across the neutral ground which -divides the Spanish from the British lines. Gibraltar is a free port, -and a resort, in consequence, of Spanish smugglers, who drive an amazing -trade by running contraband goods into Spain, and _vice versa_, which -the British authorities endeavour to stop by all means possible. -Notwithstanding all their exertions, this fraud is still carried on -under cover of dark nights. I, being posted on No. 6 post along the -Spanish lines from twelve till two, my orders were to make prisoners of -any smugglers who attempted to pass through. As I walked up and down my -post, I heard some slight noise in the long grass. I stooped down and -saw two men crawling along the grass. I advanced, and challenged, "who -goes there?" when they stooped down and tried to get away. I then -advanced nearer, and threatened to fire if they did not answer my -challenge, at the same time brought down my musket to the charge, and -full-cocked. When they saw I was about firing, they stood still and -answered me saying, "Bono Jonny, me good man, here me gib you plenty -bacca, me gib you plenty gin, him good gin, me gib you plenty eberthing -you let me pass, mit dem tings to garden, you plenty big good man, come -from Inglas, you von good man, plenty drink gin, him good for you." They -took some stone jars of gin, and some tobacco, to give me for letting -them through; but, true to my orders, when I saw the smuggled goods they -had, I made them prisoners, telling them if they moved, I would shoot -them. At the same time I passed the word to the next sentry to send for -the sergeant of the guard. They begged off very hard, and finally -offered me all their stuff if I would let them go. As soon as the -sergeant came, I handed him the prisoners, with six large, square blocks -of tobacco, and six large cases of gin. This smuggling is ever carried -on, and the sentries have all they can do to prevent it. Some sentries, -I am sorry to say, compromise with the smugglers, tobacco and gin being -too strong temptations for them. The guard being relieved, we discharged -our muskets into the sea, all our guards being loaded. The climate is -warm and pleasant throughout the year, and yet we can see the perpetual -snow-capped mountains of Andalusia, towering heavenwards in the -distance. The troops have bathing parade twice a week, at five o'clock -in the morning; and several times during the day, may be seen soldiers -and civilians besporting themselves like porpoises in the water of the -Old Mole. There is a market every morning, which opens after gunfire. -The Spaniards cross the neutral ground from Spain with their mules, -loaded with all sorts of provisions, vegetables and fruit, standing -outside the drawbridge, waiting for the gate to be opened. The market -place is fenced in, and divided into square stalls, which are rented by -the vendors, who consist of Moors, Spaniards, Jews, and Italians. - -The Moors squat down behind their stalls with their Fez cap, and -turbans, big breeches, and a long loose gown open in front, yellow -slippers, and smoking a long pipe. Oranges, grapes, figs, lemons, dates, -olives, and fruit of almost every description are sold here very cheap. - -On the 24th May, the Queen's Birthday, the troops in garrison, -consisting of two batteries royal artillery, two companies sappers and -miners, and four regiments of infantry, were drawn up in line on the -North Front at twelve o'clock, each man furnished with twelve rounds of -blank cartridge. As the clock in the tower struck twelve, a gun fired -from the Sky Battery was the signal for a Royal salute; then the -batteries on the rock as well as the men-of-war in the harbour fired -twenty-one guns each, and the line of soldiers with the field artillery -on their flanks, fired a feu-de-joie. After the smoke cleared off, the -men waved their shakoes in the air, then gave three cheers for Her -Gracious Majesty. This was a grand sight for the spectators, more -especially the Spaniards, who assembled in thousands to witness this -military celebration of Her Majesty's birthday. - -The troops then marched past, in slow, quick, and double time, they were -then divided into two armies, and put through a sham-fight, which lasted -till four o'clock. We had those fights frequently, and a general review -once a week during the summer months. On the 15th November, I had -another increase in my family; a girl was born, and she was christened -Elizabeth. - -On the 20th November, 1854, we received a letter of readiness to prepare -for active service in the East. Then came the usual packing of baggage, -and creditors—Jews, Moors, and Gentiles—flying round the barracks with -pieces of paper in their hands, looking for what was not easily found -just then. - -The evening before embarkation our company was entertained at a supper -by the grenadiers of the 39th Regiment, whom we had often met and done -duty with in the same garrison, and a friendly feeling had sprung up -between the officers and men of both companies; both captains and -officers were present to see the men enjoy themselves. After the cloth -was removed the president proposed a toast to the Queen, which was drunk -with a hearty good will, and three cheers for Her Majesty. The captain -of the 39th stood up to propose the health of their guests. "Brother -officers and soldiers," he said, looking down the two rows of faces, one -on each side of the long table, with a cheerful frank smile, "in the -name of the grenadier company, which I have the honour to command, allow -me to extend to you, our brothers and comrades in arms, a hearty -welcome, I think as this garrison, which has been so jolly, and is about -to be broken up by the gallant '17th Royal Bengal Tigers' going to join -the army in the Crimea, I must say that we are heartily sorry that it -has not come to our turn to share the honours of our comrades in a brush -with the Muscovites; but we hope, ere many days pass, we will have the -gratification of joining you in the East, and there share the glories of -the British Army in fighting for our Queen and country, and leading such -men as I now see before me at this hospitable board against the -Russians. We tender to you frankly the hand of military comrades, and -instead of firing a feu-de-joie of compliments, it is the duty of those -who remain to drink the health of those who are proceeding on active -service in the East. A bumper then, let us say good health and God bless -them." With three times three the glasses were drained, whilst the band -struck up "The British Grenadiers." - -Captain John Croker was then called upon to respond. He said, "Brother -officers, and soldiers of the 39th Regiment, this cordial reception -and courtesy of the officers and privates demand our warmest -acknowledgments, which I, in the name of my company, have the honour to -acknowledge, and I propose a health to the grenadiers of the 39th -Regiment with whom we are about to part,—charge your glasses;" and the -toast was drunk with all honours, to the appropriate tune of "Auld Lang -Syne," the company singing, "They are Jolly Good Fellows." - -December 2nd, 1854, at 8 a.m., the 17th Regiment "Royal Tigers" paraded -in the square of the Casemate Barracks for the last time, and having -been called to attention, and inspected by the commanding officer, -Colonel McPherson, C.B., he gave the word of command, the men stepped -off, preceded by the bands of other regiments, through the main street -of the town, playing the "Girl I Left Behind Me," followed by a motley -crowds of friends, sweethearts, and curious spectators, as we marched to -the New Mole, where the steam-ship "Tamar" was lying along side the -wharf to convey the 17th Regiment, two batteries of royal artillery, and -two companies of sappers and miners, to the seat of war in the Crimea. -Our parting with our wives and children was a very affecting and trying -sight, officers and soldiers taking the last farewell (some of them, -perhaps for ever) of those nearest and dearest to them, whom they were -now leaving behind on that barren rock; many hundreds of miles away from -friends or relatives, and not sure whether we would ever return again to -our loved families. I had left my wife and three children, one of them -only sixteen days old, trusting in God. - -But our Queen and country require us to meet the despot in mortal -combat, and defend the honour and glory of that old flag "that braved a -thousand years the battle and the breeze," therefore we must sever all -family ties, though hard to give up our feelings, when our Queen and -country call us to the front. Let it not be supposed that the officers -are wanting in sympathy towards the private soldier: very superficial -has been the observer, who can believe that the officer and the private -possess little in common with each other; or who can persuade himself -that the private soldier is only a machine, moved only by the command of -his superiors. Should such a casuist exist let him remember that men are -men, whether the scarlet on their backs is of the finest or coarsest -texture; and that, if the advantage of birth and the refinement of -superior education have done nothing for the officer, the private -soldier who makes a good use of such talent as he may have received, -occupies a higher position, be his ever so humble. There were some -private soldiers in the regiment who, at the parting moment, felt as -deeply the separation from wife and children, as the more aristocratic -members of the same profession; nor were incidents of a romantic -interest wanting, though the tearful young girl who saw with anguish her -true lover's departure was only dressed in calico. Doubtless in these -latter times, when England has sent forth so many of her sons to fight -for the honour of her flag, there are few who have not seen something of -the display of the varied emotions which such departures call forth, it -will therefore be unnecessary to say that when the sad time of parting -had come it was visible in the tearful eyes and blanched cheeks of many -in the crowd. The loud cheers which greeted the 17th Regiment as it -passed through the gate of the drawbridge leading down to the wharf -where the ship lay, showed the chivalrous emotions of the stern British -soldiers who lined the ramparts and along the docks, with crowds of -people whose hearts beat with sympathy as the regiment embarked. - -At eleven o'clock, all being ready, the captain gave the word and the -steamer moved out slowly from the wharf, the band playing in slow time -"Auld Lang Syne" amid cheer after cheer, and handkerchiefs waving from -the people, and returned by the crowd of red-coats who assembled on deck -to wave their handkerchiefs and wipe away the tears which were fast -running down their cheeks as they gazed on their little ones left behind -on the wharf. - -As the steamer rounded the New Mole her speed increased, and the music -also changed time; at length Europa point, with its barracks and -batteries, was turned and the reverse side of the rock, still more bold -and barren with "O'Hara's Old Tower," rearing its lofty weather-beaten -ruined spire, on the highest summit of the Wind-mill Hill. Favoured by a -beautiful sunny day and a westerly breeze, the "Tamar" swept rapidly -past the gigantic sentinel whose watch-word is the roar of the signal -gun, on the summit of the telegraph station; and when the evening sun -was gilding the snow-topped mountains of Africa with a streak of gold, -the good ship had proceeded many miles to the eastward, and though the -mountains of Africa reared their bright summits above the horizon, the -"Old Rock" was no longer to be seen. - -Then our attention was directed to the white-capped mountains on the -south coast of Spain; and when these faded from view, time was passed in -looking out for African capes or sun-burned islands. - -After tea the men assembled on deck, indulging in all sorts of games to -pass the time. A comic soldier dressed up like a baboon grinned and -jumped round the decks, up the masts, and through all the performance of -a monkey, causing roars of laughter from all around. After this, dancing -was introduced, several of the men being musicians had brought their -fiddles, we were at no loss for music; at the other side a group were -singing comic and sea songs; in this way the evening was passed until -the bugle sounded at nine o'clock, when we turned into our hammocks. We -have much better accommodation than we had on the old "Cornwall," -although we have three times the number on board. - -Next morning decks were washed by the watch at four o'clock; at ten -a.m., commanding officer's parade, when the men looked in excellent -spirits. Now came in view something to call their attention, a grampus -had blown a shower of water in the air fifty feet; the men all rushed to -see what it was, several gave their opinion as to what caused the -eruption of the water, some thought it was a volcano that broke out, -some said it was an infernal machine the Russians had placed there to -destroy our shipping, and many various opinions were brought forward to -explain the cause of the wonderful blow; a sailor, however, came along -and told us that it was a grampus. Now we see plenty of flying-fish, -whole shoals of the glittering little things glide along in the air, -skimming the top of the waves; they rise to escape their pursuers, the -bonitos, which rush after them showing their noses above the water now -and then; but the poor flying-fish have their enemies above as well as -under the water, for they no sooner rise than they risk becoming a prey -to the ocean birds which are always hovering about ready to pounce upon -them; it is a case of "out of the frying-pan into the fire." They fly -farther than I thought they could. I saw one of them fly at least one -hundred yards, and sometimes they fly on deck some fifteen feet from the -surface of the water. The weather was all that could be wished for, and -our splendid ship making rapid progress through the blue waters; the sea -is almost a dead calm, hardly a ripple on the face of the deep; an -occasional whale is seen blowing in the distance, and many grampuses -came rolling and blowing about the ship. One thing that struck me most -is the magnificence of the Mediterranean sun-set; the clouds assume all -sorts of fantastic shapes and appear more solid and clearly defined than -I have ever seen them before; toward evening they abound in colour, -purple, pink, red and yellow, alternately, while the sky near the -setting sun seems a beautiful green, gradually melting into the blue sky -above, the great clouds on the horizon look like mountains tipped with -gold and fiery red. One of those sun-sets was a delightful sight; the -sun went down into the sea between two enormous clouds, the only ones to -be seen, and they blazed with brilliant colours which were constantly -changing, until the clouds stood out in dark relief against the still -delicately tinted sky. I got up frequently to see the sun rise, but it -is not near so beautiful as at setting. After sun-down the officers -chose out a few of the best talent among the men, who assembled on the -quarter-deck and sang some excellent glees, comic and sentimental songs, -with great applause; at nine o'clock the bugle sounded, when we turned -in and slept well, the ship running as steady as if she was in a canal. - -Next morning after parade the officers amused themselves with their -revolvers shooting at porpoises which came in shoals close to the ship. -After dinner the band played on the quarter-deck to the delight of all -on board, more especially the ship's officers and sailors. The weather -was beautiful and the sea like a mirror. - -At seven next morning the sailor on the look out on the masthead cried -out "land ho!" when all eyes were strained looking for the desired -object, but none could see it for some time afterwards—at last we saw -it in the distance, like a dark cloud lying on the waters; as we neared -the land it appeared to us a rocky, barren-looking island, Malta. Yet -the cultivated strips here and there were so green and flourishing, they -presented a most charming and beautiful appearance. Those who had not -before visited the place were struck with the imposing appearance of -this remarkable city. Tier upon tier of batteries upon all sides showed -bristling rows of guns, daring intruders to enter the harbour with -hostile intentions. To the right the principal part of the town was to -be seen, terrace above terrace, dome and spires, towering above the -houses, all looming darkly against the sky. The air was sultry, and the -reflection of buildings, rocks and shipping, in the almost still water -was only agitated by the little boats which were moving about in all -directions. The harbour was crowded with shipping, and as we moved into -our moorings at ten o'clock, we were cheered by the sailors and soldiers -on board the men of war in the harbour, as well as from the batteries on -either side. We had a splendid passage of nine hundred and eighty miles -in four days. - - -[Illustration] - - - - -[Illustration] - -CHAPTER XIII. - - MALTESE—DEPARTURE—A CAPTAIN COMMITS SUICIDE—THE FUNERAL—SMALL-POX— - RETURN—RESUMED THE VOYAGE—GRECIAN ARCHES—DARDANELLES—GALLIPOLI— - TURKISH SENTRIES—CONSTANTINOPLE—TURKISH LADIES—THE BOSPHORUS— - VOYAGE ACROSS THE EUXINE—ARRIVAL. - - -Soon after our arrival in the harbour, a coal-barge came along side, and -about fifty Maltese commenced to coal our ship; they carried the coal on -their heads in round, wicker baskets; passed each other on the gangway -after depositing their load in the ship's bunker. The coaling lasted -about two hours, during which time the officers and men were amused by -divers who came along in little boats; a boy managing the boat, while -the diver was left free to exercise his strange employment. His dress -consisted of a light pair of drawers short at both ends, and a loose -skirt. Bringing his little craft alongside, where we were looking over -the railing, and divesting himself of his upper garments, he commenced -in a supplicating tone of broken English: "sixpence, me dive for -sixpence, me get him quick; me get him sure." Some of the officers -tossed a sixpence into the water where it was very deep, supposing he -was going to the bottom for it; but experience taught him an easier mode -of catching it. Watching it with the eye of a hawk he saw it strike the -water, and, poising himself, he sprung head first in the sea; the water -was so clear we could follow him with our eyes. Down he went like an -arrow, outstripping the sixpence in the race for the bottom; before it -had sunk twelve feet he had his hands under it in the form of a bowl, -the shining piece dropping into his hands; he then clapped it between -his teeth, rose to the surface, climbed into his boat and exhibited the -prize with the air of a conqueror. This was repeated several times, and -with unerring certainty he caught the prize every time. He then asked -for some one to throw a sixpence the other side of the ship, which was -done, when he sprang under the ship and brought it up in his teeth on -the other side. The Maltese had finished coaling at twelve, when our -steamer moved slowly from her buoy; dense masses of people lined the -batteries, and yet larger crowds of soldiers in the forts St. Angelo and -St. Elmo cheered as our steamer moved along, the cheers from the fort -being taken up by the troops on board, as well as the sailors and -marines in the harbour, and joyously responded to by our troops who -assembled on the deck to give our last hurrah for the East. The Town of -Valetta with its strong forts, batteries, terraces, domes and houses -grew smaller by degrees as the gallant "Tamar" ploughed her onward -course through the blue waters of the Mediterranean, the island looking -like a little blue cloud in the distance, gradually fading away. We have -the trackless expanse around us; in the distance Mount Etna looms up in -the north-west. The ship was making rapid progress through the -waters—the captain says, "if this breeze lasts, we will reach -Constantinople on the 8th," but our expectations were frustrated; "man -proposes, but God disposes," which we found to be true; for on Saturday, -at 8 a.m., a very melancholy occurrence happened which threw a deep -gloom over all the troops on board; the captain commanding the -detachment Royal Artillery had cut his throat in his cabin; no person -could ever find out what was the cause which led him to commit this -dreadful act. - -How deeply touching is a burial at sea! replete with reflection, -striking and sublime, as should always be the spectacle of a -funeral,—the tree falling as it must rise again, with no leaves nor -flowers of repentance or prayer, or office to alter its final doom, ever -to bloom again on that cut down stem,—far more deeply does the service -and the sights and the sounds of a funeral on the ocean always move one. -The clouds had cleared and it was intensely hot; the funeral took place -at two o'clock; we saw the body sewed up in a hammock with a round shot -at its feet, and borne by the men of his battery from his cabin and laid -upon the deck. We had no clergyman on board, therefore the painful duty -of reading the service devolved upon the captain of the ship, which -could not have been performed by a clergyman. As he began to read, not a -sound, not a breath broke the solemn silence; nothing but the noise of -the rolling swells against the smooth side of the ship as I stood close -to the gangway while the service was read, in deep thought, and gazing -on the bright and glorious shining sea, now nearly calm, looking so -intensely sunny and blue; it seemed to some a mocking at the king of -terrors, whose victim was about to be committed to its keeping. To me it -looked like the gemmed and crystal gate of that heaven through which the -Son of God had promised the faithful Christian who believes and trusts -in Him to wing its happy way, there to learn many a marvel that he had -striven on earth to trace and explore. - -Earnestly and solemnly he read, and, when he uttered the last words, the -sailors raised the body to the edge of the gangway and let it slide, -feet foremost, into the sea "and so we commit his body to the deep." You -who think it a solemn thing to hear the bell of some country church at -home echoing through the rich woods or flowery valleys, telling of the -death of some one who will never return home again, cannot form any idea -of the awe which strikes into the heart at sea. I do not think there -were many dry eyes among the officers and men of his battery, as they -saw the body splash into the deep sea and sink straight down, with the -heavy round shot at his feet. After this painful event the doctor -reported two cases of small-pox, which had broken out amongst the -troops, and immediately the captain and officers held a council to know -what course they would pursue. It was decided to return to Malta, and -put the sick men into hospital there, and prevent taking the infectious -disease out to the Crimea amongst the troops. The ship was headed for -Malta where we arrived at 6 p.m. next day; as we entered the harbour -unexpectedly, from one of the upper forts, at the end of the harbour, -there came a flash, followed by a loud report, which was echoed back and -forward against the rocks and buildings, till the roaring sound at last -died away, and the wreath of white smoke slowly ascended into the sky. -It was the evening gun, which is fired at sun-down. After handing over -the two patients to the proper authorities we again steamed out of -harbour. There were crowds of people again assembled along the batteries -to witness the departure of our noble ship, with the living cargo of -redcoats on board, of course wondering what caused our return. As we got -out to sea, a breeze sprung up on our larboard quarter, when all sails -were set, and soon the island faded again away into the distance, and -once more our ship was going through the waters at 15 knots, under the -influence of wind and steam; next day at six p.m., we had run 240 miles -in 24 hours. Sunday, at ten a.m., parade for divine service, which was -read by the captain of the ship; at sun-down the wind wheeled round -right in our teeth, which obliged us to take in all sail. The men were -paraded at ten a.m., next day, and between various duties, and the sharp -appetites brought on by the sea air, we managed to get over the time -very pleasantly. The band played on the quarter deck in the afternoons, -when the weather permitted; towards evening the wind veered round on our -starboard bow, and the boatswain piped all hands to make sail, but we -were doomed ere long to experience a change of weather, for the sun went -down in a clear but stormy sky, the wind piping, snoring, and howling -through the blocks and rigging, the waves thundering against our -starboard, the ship had to struggle with a south-easterly gale of such -fury, that it reminded me of a Levanter, which the Mediterreanean is -famous for; at daylight the land was made, a heavy cloud-like line just -perceptible. It was the Morea, and the men rushed on deck to see the -land. As we ran up, the snow-covered mountain peaks with cold, rocky, -barren edges, and villages of white houses dotting the declivity towards -the sea, became to us perfectly distinct. - -At 8 a.m. we passed Cape Matapan; although the old reputation of this -cape was not sustained by our destruction, still the sea showed every -inclination to be troublesome, the wind kept rising every moment. At ten -a.m. we were passing between the Morea and Cerigo; we had a proof that -the Greeks were nearly right about the weather. Even bolder sailors than -the ancients fear the heavy squalls off those snowy headlands, which -gave us but a poor idea of sunny Greece. - -The ancient Greeks always considered a voyage round Capes Matapan and -St. Angelo fraught with great danger. As we rounded the angle of the -cape the wind rushed at us with much fury; we saw the sea rushing with -crests of white foam right on our starboard bow. Its violence was -terrific, the sea was rolling in wondrous waves towards the ship; she -behaved nobly and went over them with the greatest ease. The gusts came -down furiously between the little islands, which we could not make out -or did not know the names. The men bore up well against this furious -storm, although they were all sea-sick but never absent when the grog -bugle sounded at twelve o'clock. - -The night came upon us and the ship labouring on, dashing the sea into -white spray in the darkness. At day light next morning the sight was -most discouraging, the clouds were black and low, the sea white and -high, and between them on the horizon was a mass of a broken character -so that one could not be known from the other. We passed Milo at 9 p.m., -and the gale increased; afterwards at 10 a.m., when the wind changed one -point aft and the ship rolled very much, the deck was inclined to so -sharp an angle that we could only hold on by a tight grip of the stays -and ropes. The sea breaking over the ship swept several of the horse -stalls loose about the deck, and the poor animals lay helpless against -the bulwarks. About twelve o'clock the wind went down and the sun burst -forth, sending his golden warm rays through the clouds, when the -artillery men picked up their horses and put everything in its place -again. We passed the Greek coast trending away to the left, showing in -rugged masses of mountains capped by snowy peaks, and occasionally some -good sized towns were visible on the dark brown hill side, with several -windmills along the beach. With some exceptions, the isles of Greece -rather disappoint the lovers of the picturesque; seen from the sea they -are more or less bold and barren, abounding with sterile rocks almost -entirely devoid of wood, except a stunted olive tree here and there, and -clothed with a kind of reddish-brown grass. The Candian mountains are -perhaps the most striking features which we encountered in our progress -through what the sailors call "the arches," As we swept through the -"Thermian Passage," accompanied in our course by several ancient-looking -craft with little white sails stretching outwards, resembling the wings -of Icarus, and others of no less ancient model, with lofty prow and -solitary square rigged mast. On the left lay the Gulf of Athens, on our -right rose the snowy heights of Mount Ida, 5,400 feet above the level of -the sea, to the north the lofty Lemnos. At three p.m. we passed the -castles of the Dardanelles and the Hellespont; we were not stopped nor -fired at as in days of yore. As we passed Gallipoli, about seven p.m., -we could see a collection of red-roofed houses, with tall minarets -rising up amongst them. From the entrance of the Dardanelles to -Gallipoli the straits are very narrow, not more than a quarter of a mile -in some places. We ran along close to the bank on the European side; its -breadth opposite the town of Gallipoli is about four miles, and it -expands towards the Sea of Marmora. As the ship ran along the banks we -could see large herds of goats and small black sheep feeding on the high -rocks along the edge of the river. Night was closing on us and, as we -passed the numerous forts on the European side the sentries yelled out -strange challenges and burned blue lights, and blue lights answered from -our ship in return, so that it looked to us a strange spectacle. The -lights were put out and our eyes are as blind as owls in day light, but -our eyes soon recover, the stars at last begin to twinkle, and we see a -little around us. All night we were crossing the Sea of Marmora with a -strong current against us. - -[Illustration: BANKS OF THE DARDANELLES.] - -Next morning, after breakfast we came in sight of Constantinople; at ten -a.m. we passed the Seven Towers on our left, with Seraglio Point just -before us; at 10.30 we cast anchor with hundreds of other vessels at the -mouth of the Golden Horn. Steam ferry-boats of the English kind were -passing to and fro, and caiques flitted in and out with the dexterity -and swiftness of a sea-gull. As we cast anchor, a small brig coming down -stream ran foul of us on the starboard bow, snap and crash went her -bowsprit and yard, causing considerable damage to our bulwarks and -stays; this accident detained us two hours. The stream runs so swiftly -down the channel that vessels frequently ran foul, sometimes causing -serious damage. We notice passing back and forward from Stamboul to -Pera, caiques with Turkish women wearing white clothes, and staring at -us out of two black holes in their yashmak. At twelve o'clock we weighed -anchor and continued our course through the Bosphorus. The scenery is of -almost unrivalled beauty and the panorama of which Constantinople forms -the principal part, is such as is perhaps nowhere else to be seen in the -world. - -[Illustration: A TURKISH LADY.] - -As we proceeded up the stream and looked back, the view of the Marmora, -as we leave it behind, is very fine. On the opposite Asiatic shore Mount -Olympus, 8,800 feet high, with its snow-crowned summit fades away into -the blue of the heavens, while the Imperial Palace of the Seraglio, St. -Sophia's Mosque, and others of less proportions, stud the banks in -unbroken lines from the very foot of the forts which command the -entrance up to the crowning glory of the scene, where the Imperial City -of Constantine, rising in many coloured terraces from the verge of the -Golden Horn, confuses the eye with its numerous gardens, cypresses, -mosques and palaces, its masses of foliage and red roofs surmounted by -snow-white minarets with golden tops. The residences of the Pashas, the -Imperial palaces of the Sultan, and the retreats of opulence, line these -favoured shores. As the ship ran along we could see the Turks sitting -cross-legged like tailors on their verandahs smoking away and looking as -like each other as if they were twins. The windows of these houses are -closely latticed and fastened, but here and there can be seen a -white-faced lady, with gay coloured robe, peeping through the jalousies, -showing that the harem is occupied by the fair sex. These dwellings -succeed each other the whole length of the Bosphorus, and at places such -as Buyukdere they are numerous enough to form large villages, provided -with hotels, shops, and lodging houses. - -[Illustration: THE SULTAN'S PALACE, SERAGLIO POINT.] - -The Turks delight in sitting out on the platform over the water while -they smoke their chibouque, and the greatest object of Turkish ambition -is to enjoy the pleasure of a residence on the banks of the Bosphorus. -These waters abound in fish, and shoals of porpoises and dolphins -disport on its surface, splashing and playing about with ease as they -swim against its rapid stream. - -I noticed the Turks never took the least notice of us as we arrived; so -we departed in silence, and, as far as the Turks were concerned, in -solitude. The boatmen scarcely turned their heads to look at the -majestic steamer with her deck covered with British troops, crossing the -broad, rough, and stormy seas to fight for these lazy, indifferent -orientals, who would scarcely turn their heads to look at us, much less -give us a cheer as we departed from the Sultan's Sublime Porte. - -[Illustration: THE SULTAN.] - -As we pass the batteries which mark the opening of the Bosphorus into -the Euxine, we cheer the Turkish sentries as we shoot past them into the -Black Sea, and soon the land is shut out. A fog, a drifting, clammy, -mist, cold and rain, fall down on us like a shroud, and as the night -closes in, it damps out the stars and all the light of heaven, and -steals down yard, mast and stays; this is genuine Black Sea weather. - -In the morning the same haze continued with drifting cold wind; after -breakfast we commenced to sharpen our swords and bayonets in order to -have them ready to serve out to the Russians in a professional manner, -and with as little pain and torture as we possibly could; the -grinding-stones were furnished by the sailors;—this occupied the whole -day. The morning dawned; the sun, red and stormy, glared from an angry -sky, over a rugged outline of coast not more than twenty-five miles -distant, and lighted up by white capped waves which plunged athwart the -ship's course. As we neared the land the captain and officers stood -forward with their telescopes in hand. Where was the desired haven? was -now the subject of conversation, not a sign of an opening was -distinguished in that formidable rock, which the telescope scanned from -end to end; but at last the captain sighted a ruined tower upon a cliff -somewhat lower than the rest with a union-jack flying. - -It was not long before the masts of a man-of-war just visible above the -high rocks which marked the narrow entrance into Balaklava harbour, was -seen; up went our number, but in vain we looked for an answer. We -entered the small, deep harbour through a very narrow passage which was -crowded with shipping. We ran up close alongside the ledge of a steep -rock on the left side of the harbour, in twenty fathoms of water, and -made fast to iron hooks fixed in the rock for that purpose. - - - - -[Illustration] - -CHAPTER XIV. - - DISEMBARKATION—FIRST BIVOUAC—THE MARCH—ARRIVAL—SEBASTOPOL—THE - TRENCHES—FIRST MAN WOUNDED—RETURN TO CAMP—AN ALARM—LORD RAGLAN— - SORTIE—FORAGING—THE OLD BRIDGE—COLONEL COLE—THE SIEGE. - - -December 15th, 1854, at 2 o'clock p.m., the regiment disembarked, in -heavy marching order, at Balaklava, having been served out with the -following articles of camp equipage previously, which we carried to the -front, consisting of one circular tent complete to every sixteen men, -one camp-kettle, frying-pan, axe, hand-saw, spade, shovel, and two -billocks to each mess, one blanket to each man, with three days' ship -rations. - -The command being given, we marched, distributing the camp equipage -amongst the men of the company. The rain poured on us as we waded knee -deep through the mud, making the best of our way among the heaps of -forage and stores, which lay under the rain and exposed to the weather, -without cover of any kind, all around Balaklava. We were obliged to halt -outside the town, on account of the heavy rain, and pitch our camp on -the side of Kadikoi Hill for the night. Before we got our tents pitched -we got saturated with rain to our very skins. We had cold comfort that -night, in wet clothes and blankets lying on the damp ground; everything -wet except our ammunition which we always managed to keep dry;—we had -not even a light in our tents. At 9 o'clock, after posting the piquet -sentries around our camp, we lay down;—this was a good receipt for -rheumatism, and it required a strong constitution to bear up. At -reveillé next morning we were on the alert, eat some biscuits without -water, alas, there was no water near our camp, and marched off. After -marching four miles through a slough of Balaklava mud, which it is -impossible to describe, we pitched our camp on the most favourable spot -we could find, and close to a stream of water; having indulged in the -latter beverage very copiously, with some hard biscuits, we turned into -our tent, always placing sentries around our camp. The flashes from the -guns of Sebastopol lighting up our camp, we lay down as we did the night -before, in our wet clothes, overcoat and blanket. Our slumbers were -frequently disturbed during the night by the thundering of the guns of -Sebastopol. At 6 a.m. we tried to make a camp-fire, and get some hot -coffee previous to our departure, but we failed in the attempt; several -foraging parties scoured the neighbourhood searching for some wood or -brambles to make a fire with, but could not find any; so we drank plenty -of water from the stream, and filled our kegs with the blessed fluid. -After eating some hard biscuit, we struck our tents and resumed our -march to the front. As we proceeded through the "slough of despond," we -marched through the French camp, when the French soldiers turned out and -cheered us, their bands playing "God save the Queen" as we passed their -camp, which we responded to in a most friendly manner. We arrived at the -4th Division, to which we were posted, at two p.m., after wading through -slush and mud the whole way, sinking knee-deep at every step, and were -shown our camp grounds on Cathcart's Hill, with the honour of being the -front regiment of the 4th Division. - -Before we had our tents pitched, two-thirds of the regiment were -detailed for the trenches that night; several men reported themselves -sick, having caught severe colds from sleeping in their wet clothes on -the damp ground the two previous nights, together with the heavy -fatiguing march from Balaklava, on, I might say, an empty stomach, for -we had nothing to eat or drink from the time we disembarked, except hard -biscuit and cold water. We could not eat raw pork just then, this told -on the men's constitutions; although their pluck was good they had to -give in; they were sent to the hospital tent. After we had finished -tent-pitching, I was anxious to see Sebastopol and its surroundings. I -went to the top of Cathcart's Hill, where I had a splendid view along -the whole line of trenches from Kamiesch Bay to the Tchernaya River -enclosing Sebastopol, which shone white and clear in the sun. I could -see a large Russian camp defended by earth-works on the north side of -the harbour, and large masses of Russians on parade outside the camp. At -sun down the covering party were paraded on the brigade grounds, and, -after dark, marched for the first time to face the Muscovite, a field -officer in charge, each party with their officers. Marching down, the -Russians opened a heavy fire; at every flash we all lay down until the -round shot passed over, in this way we dodged them until we relieved the -party in the trenches; during the time of relieving, the enemy always -opened a heavy fire—they knew the time our relief took place after -taking charge of the trenches. One hundred men were told off to build -batteries in the second parallel, and cutting advancing trenches. -We were formed into gangs of twelve men, each in charge of a -non-commissioned officer, with officers superintending the whole, the -work having been laid out by the Royal Engineers. We worked hard under -shot, shell, grape and canister, until twelve, when the grog was served, -each man getting a half gill of rum, which gladdened our hearts and gave -fresh strength to proceed with our work. While we were working, a man -was placed on the look-out for the flashes of the guns, and when he saw -one gave the word "down," when we lay down in the trench; if it was a -shell, got behind the traverse. - -The flashes from our guns and mortars gave us light to carry on our work -when the night was dark. In the morning we felt hungry, but had nothing -to eat or drink except biscuit and cold water, unless we eat raw pork, -which some could not do then; a man does not know what he can eat until -he is driven to it, which was shown afterwards. The Russians kept up a -steady fire during the night from the Garden and Crows' Nest batteries, -which our batteries responded to with a powerful fire. During the day we -tried several shots with the "Old Brown Bess" at some working parties -who were throwing up earth-works about 800 yards distance, but could not -reach them. Oh, how I wished to have a good Enfield rifle then instead -of the smooth bore which we were armed with. A Russian shell burst close -to us, a splinter of which struck one of our grenadiers named Chas. -O'Maley, causing a deep wound in his head; this was the first blood shed -in the regiment; his wound was dressed by the doctor who was in -attendance at the Green Hill trench. Being relieved by a fresh party at -sun-down we marched to camp under the darkness of the evening. There we -indulged in our usual meal of raw pork, biscuits, and cold water. -Several parties had been foraging for wood, or roots, or anything to -make a fire, but could get nothing; therefore we had to lie down in our -tent, our feet to the pole, knapsack under our head, and fully -accoutred, with our blankets round us on the wet ground, without a fire -or any warm food. We were never allowed to take off our accoutrements at -night. During the night an alarm was given that the enemy had advanced -on our trenches in large force, when we turned out and marched down. As -we advanced on the trenches the cracking of musketry and roaring of -cannon was deafening, the flashes lighting up the way as we doubled to -the trenches. When we reached the Green Hill trench, the enemy had been -repulsed with great loss; several Russians lay dead and wounded on the -field, and in the trenches our loss was comparatively light, four men -killed and nine wounded. We then returned to camp and lay down in peace -till morning, wet and tired. At eight a.m., next morning, Lord Raglan -and his staff visited our camp, when the men turned out; he inspected -the camp and was well pleased with the appearance of the men. After the -usual breakfast of salt pork and biscuit, all available men, after -furnishing the trenches, were employed in carrying round shot and shell -from the divisional depôt to the trenches. - -This was very hard work; each man carried a round shot in a biscuit-bag -on his back, sinking deep in the usual mud at every step: this and -dragging big guns into position occupied the whole day. The sortie last -night was not on our trenches alone, on the left the enemy did more -damage; in front of the left attack there are some trenches which run -down the edge of the ravine from the harbour which divides the town from -the military barracks; the continuation of this ravine divides the third -division from the French lines. In order to guard this ravine the -sentries of the French and English ought to be in communication. The -Russians followed this ravine and got past our sentries, who took them -to be French, as their officers commanded their men in French, to throw -our men off their guard; in this way they succeeded in getting past our -sentries on the extreme left, bayoneted them and got into the trenches -before they were recognised as Russians, killing and wounding a number, -a major of the 50th among the latter, and taking two officers and -sixteen men prisoners. When their treachery was detected, they were soon -driven back with considerable loss; several Russians were found dead and -wounded in the ravine. Next morning a small party of six started off on -a foraging _reconnaissance_ to the valley of the Tchernaya River in -search of wood, taking our water-keg straps with us; as we passed down a -deep ravine beyond Inkermann heights we saw lying in the bottom of the -ravine over twenty dead Russians who were buried there, the little earth -which they had been covered with was washed away by the heavy rains; -they were lying in their clothes as they were shot, presenting a most -ghastly spectacle. We proceeded to an old bridge, climbing up the side -of a steep hill, on the top of which was a Russian battery. We commenced -cutting the trees and bushes which grew on the hill side and throwing -them down to the bottom. We were not long cutting as much as our straps -would hold. We tied up our bundles and quietly escaped along the edge of -the ravine lest the Russians might detect us; if they did, it was the -last of us, we were close under their batteries but we got away safely. -When we got to our camp there were glad faces when they saw the loads of -wood; it was soon chopped up by the men, while others lit the fire and -filled the camp-kettles with pork and put them on the fire. The smoke -from the fires caused many of the officers to come and see what was up, -they were agreeably surprised to see the fires and the camp-kettles -boiling. After we had cooked a sufficient quantity of salt beef and pork -and prepared coffee, we invited the officers to use the fires, which -invitation they most thankfully accepted. We had plenty of hot coffee, -salt beef and pork that day, skimming the fat and stowing it away for -future use, When the cooking was over we put out the fires, collecting -the embers together with the wood we had left to cook our breakfast; -this was the first hot food we tasted since our disembarkation at -Balaklava. We had hard frost last night and were employed getting up -guns and mortars to the front; if this frost continues we will soon have -all the guns and mortars in position. - -[Illustration: A WONDERFUL ESCAPE.] - -The Russian batteries were nearly silent last night on our attack, but a -brisk fire was kept up on the right, Colonel Macpherson, C.B., has been -promoted to Brigadier in the 4th Division, and Colonel Cole takes -command of the 17th Regiment; Sir Edmund Lyons has taken command of the -fleet, vice Admiral Dundas who proceeds to Constantinople. Our regiment -is hard worked; we find two-thirds of the regiment for the trenches -every night, the others of the division being reduced by sickness and -death, and ere long we will have many sick too, if things go on as they -are at present. Parading for the trenches yesterday evening, ten men -reported sick with dysentery, brought on by exposure and lying on the -wet ground in damp clothing, and want of warm food; they were admitted -into the hospital tent. - -All the Russians seem to think of, is getting up guns in position in -every possible direction along our approaches. Last night in carrying -earth to a battery on the left of second parallel, I picked from among -the rocks something from a hole and thought it was a stone; in -attempting to lift it, I stuck my fingers into a dead man's eyes: my -sense of smell detected the mistake, I stepped back to wheeling -distance, the smell was abominable; ever since, when I think of it I -fancy I smell it. I was orderly next day. An orderly from each tent -collects the water kegs of their tent, and takes them down to a ravine -near the Woronzoff road where a small stream of water, the thickness of -a ramrod, springs from a fissure in the rock; this spring supplies the -2nd, 4th and Light Divisions, as well as a division of the French and -Turks, with water; and as the orderly men arrive, they fall in rear of -each other, forming a line waiting for their turn, and not unfrequently -the French and English fight for the first turn, the Turks sitting on a -stone at a distance, looking on, and waiting till the last. I saw one of -our men and a big French Dragoon fighting with their fists, when the -soldier beat the Frenchman, of course, knocking him down several times; -afterwards the French kept away until our men got served. - -Little was done in camp to-day, the state of the roads presented the -greatest obstacles to the transport of shot and shell, and all that -could be effected was to get up scanty supplies of pork, beef, biscuit, -and rum, to our camp; the rain, sleet, and snow, fell heavily. The cold, -wet, and slush in and round camp is truly fearful. - -A captain of the Royal Artillery was found dead in his tent, suffocated -by the fumes of a charcoal fire he had lighted. - -Christmas and New Year's day are passed, and we have had a cold, dreary, -sloppy, wet and hungry Christmas and New Year; many of our men going to -hospital and dying there. Their illness had been caused by hard work in -bad weather, and by exposure to wet without any protection. Just think -what a tent is, pitched on wet, muddy ground, with the rain beating -through the canvas, into which sixteen hungry men, drenched to the skin, -have to creep for shelter, after twenty-four hours in the trenches up to -their knees in slush, and then reflect what state we must be in, after a -night spent in such shelter, lying down without any change of clothing, -and as close as we can stow, in wet blankets covered with mud. It rained -in torrents all last night and to-day, and floods of mud are flowing -through the floors of our tents, making their way down the hill-side; -the roads are so bad as to cut off supplies to the camp, and we are -accordingly placed on half rations; the horses and mules get stuck in -the mud bringing up provisions from Balaklava, and there they lie and -die, and the men are dying off faster than the horses, and the Turks -dying by the dozen. - -Hostilities are almost at a standstill in the trenches; the men are too -feeble to work the guns. It is reported the Russians are suffering still -more than we are, but they are more numerous, and can afford to lose -twenty to our one. - - -THE CRIMEAN WAR. - - When from Balaklava to the front we go, - The Chersonese are covered with mud and snow, - Where the horse, the mule, and the Turk have stuck, - Transporting provisions for our British pluck. - - Where the tents are blown down with the furious blast, - And the rain pours down immensely fast, - And the shivering soldier in the trenches stood, - With his dripping clothes to chill his blood. - - And the noble officer brought up with care, - In his wet and dismal tent, without dread or fear; - Or a covering party with their rifles in hand, - Marching to the trenches a melancholy band. - - Or, when in camp without fire or mill, - To roast their coffee or to grind it, still - The commissariat to economise expense, - Issued the troops green coffee! to show their sense. - - To roast and grind as best they could, - Issuing neither mill nor wood; - Our lines of soldiers marching rank entire, - Bearing shot and shell, too, at the Russians' fire. - - Or the distant Cossack over the hills doth glow, - As winter wraps the Tchernaya Valley with snow, - And Prince Menschikoff in the Great Redan he stood, - Giving the Muscovites orders for to shed our blood. - - And Sir Wm. Codrington on Cathcart's Hill, - Giving forth his orders to his gallant men, - Yonder the British Navy riding in the gale, - Idly waiting orders to spread sail. - - T. FAUGHNAN. - - -[Illustration] - - - - -[Illustration] - -CHAPTER XV. - - MARCH TO BALAKLAVA—RETURN—MEN GO BARE-FOOTED—SNOW FIVE FEET - DEEP—LONG BOOTS—HARD FROST—CAVALRY DIVISION—BURIAL GROUND— - SOLITARY PROCESSION—MEN FROZEN—I BUILT A HUT—GREEN COFFEE— - WINTRY APPEARANCE—DEAD HORSES—63RD REGIMENT—CARRYING PROVISIONS— - FRENCH SICK. - - -January 6th, Captain John Croker, with six men of his company, went down -to Balaklava for some cooked pork, which had been kindly sent out from -England to us. The captain took a mule to carry back a bag of charcoal. -After we got the pork from the steamer, and the captain his charcoal on -the mule's back, we started for camp. We had proceeded about three miles -when we got faint with hunger, weary and wet, the mud being knee deep, -and the load sinking us into the mire at every step. We requested the -captain to let us have some of the pork to eat, this he willingly -complied with, as he was hungry himself. We opened the bags and divided -a four pound piece between every two men, the captain taking his share -also; this gave us new strength to accomplish our task, and also to help -the mule out of the slough. Sleet, snow and rain beat in our faces all -the way; we did not reach camp till twelve o'clock that night. This was -the hardest fatigue—up to our knees in mud with a heavy load on our -backs—I ever performed. After we got to camp the captain gave us each a -glass of Hennessey's brandy from a case which he got out from Ireland as -a Christmas-box. I believe that brandy saved us from a severe illness, -as we had to lie down in our wet clothes. As we were coming up from -Balaklava, we saw the 39th Regiment which had just landed, preparing to -join the camp before Sebastopol. They were well provided against the -severity of the weather; they had all received warm clothing, and looked -comfortable in their fur caps and long boots; but the 17th Regiment had -not received a single article of warm clothing yet. Our old clothes are -in rags and tatters, even our boots are scarcely any protection, the -leather having shrunk with the continual wet, and the men's feet having -swelled with the cold, so that some men could not get their boots on and -had to go in the trenches and about the camp bare-footed; this is hard -to believe, but nevertheless it is true. January 9th. It had been -snowing for the last three days, and this morning the whole of the -mountains over Balaklava and along the valley of the Tchernaya River are -clothed in a sheet of white, the snow being on the ground to the depth -of three feet and in some places over five feet; the cold was increased -by a piercing high wind which blew into our very marrow bones. If we -were only well clad this weather would, however, be far more healthy -than the wet and storm we have had recently, but, alas, we are not -properly provided with outer garments to resist the severity of the -Crimean winter. I cannot conceive greater hardship than to stand in the -trenches twenty-four hours, then return cramped and nearly frozen, to -our damp, cheerless tents to find that there is no fire nor wood to cook -any victuals, nor even a drink of warm coffee. What we require most of -all are long boots to protect our feet and legs; most of the officers -have got long boots, and find them invaluable. Our mitts are worn out -and unserviceable; I made a pair out of a piece of my blanket, which I -find answers the purpose admirably, of course it was robbing Peter to -pay Paul; it shortened my blanket somewhat. Several men, however, have -followed my example. - -It has been freezing extremely hard these two last nights, and this -morning a man was found frozen in my tent. His name was George Murphin, -he was a good soldier; he lay down, as we all did, and went to -sleep—and never woke. When the orderly was rousing the men, this man -was found frozen stiff in death. There has been over one hundred men -admitted into hospital from the trenches these last twenty-four hours, -seized with cramps and nearly frozen—all from the want of clothing. The -cavalry division lost about fifty horses within the last three days, and -I dread to think of the number of men who will die if this weather -continues long. The commissariat mules and horses are dying off very -fast, and the men seem likely to follow, if there is not something done -soon to protect the army from the inclemency of the weather, of which we -are more afraid than of the Russians. It is the wish of every officer -and man in the camp that Lord Raglan would march the whole army against -Sebastopol, and let us take it or die in the attempt—we had better die -in battle than die with cold, starvation and sickness. We are of opinion -that we would not lose so many men in taking it as we are now losing -daily by sickness and the want of food and clothes. A new burial ground -having been opened about two hundred yards to the right front of our -regiment, on the side of the hill, frequently may be seen passing our -tents, every day, four soldiers slowly winding their way towards this -grave-yard, with a corpse sewed up in a blanket, carried on a stretcher -on the men's shoulders—no person accompanying the solitary funeral—and -buried without the ordinary military honours of three rounds of blank -fired over him. The burials are too numerous to pay the usual honours, -besides, we have not the men to spare; all available for duty are either -in the trenches or carrying shot, shell or provisions. The men's spirits -are broken down, and they march along with a load on their back, in -solemn silence, regardless of anything, not even looking to the right or -left, resigning themselves to death which they daily expect, who is -following quickly in their footsteps, not by shot from the Russians, but -by a slower and surer torture—starvation and cold. When I saw so many -men freezing to death, I began to talk to myself thus, "Tom Faughnan, -are you going to make no exertion to save yourself from being frozen to -death, as some of your comrades have been, and are now buried yonder, on -the hill-side? If you get shot by the enemy it is what you expected when -you came out here, and is a soldier's death, fighting the battles for -the honour and glory of your Queen and country." As I was walking round -the tent-pole to keep my blood in circulation, the temperature being -many degrees below zero, I held the above soliloquy. A happy thought -struck me, and I carried it out, which I believe saved my life. I took a -pick-axe and shovel and commenced to build a hut in rear of the -company's tents. I worked at it every spare moment until I had a hole -dug nine feet long by six wide, and four feet deep, cutting the inside -walls straight down, and facing them with stones to a height of two feet -above the ground, which left the inside of the hut six feet high, -building a fireplace and chimney in the end. I then got my comrade, -Dandy Russell, to accompany me to the old bridge at the Tchernaya River, -where I climbed up a steep hill, close to a Russian battery, where we -got wood on a former occasion, and there I got enough of wood to roof my -hut. Having filled our straps with the best we could find, we started -for our camp, escaping the Russians who were just above us on the hill. -When we got to camp I commenced to roof the hut, cutting the rafters and -tying them at the top with some gads made out of willows cut for that -purpose. Having the rafters secured along the top, I stretched some -small sticks along the sides of the roof, securing them also, and then -laying branches over all. I then cut sods in a ravine, carried them to -the hut, laid them on the top of the branches, and covered the whole -with earth, smoothing it over with the back of the spade, as I would a -potato pit in Ireland, to throw off the rain, cutting a trench round it -to carry off the water. I made steps going down, and I got a flag to fit -the door, so my Irish experience stood to me here. We frequently went to -the old bridge for wood, but ran the risk of being shot by the Russians -every time. By this means we managed to get wood enough to keep a fire -in our hut, and were comfortable while the men were freezing to death in -their tents. Dandy and I managed to get on trench duty alternately, so -as to leave one of us to look after the hut, and prepare the meals for -the other after coming off trench duty. - -Having been served with green coffee by the commissariat, and having no -means of roasting or grinding it, we had accumulated a large bagful. Now -we procured the half of a large exploded shell, and with a nine pound -shot we ground the coffee in the shell, after roasting it on a frying -pan; most of the men threw their green coffee away, having no means of -roasting or grinding. There has been a good deal of firing going on -between the French and Russians on the right attack, and the Grenadier -Guards had it very hot last night, from a new masked battery the -Russians opened on the right near Canrobert's Redoubt. There are three -large columns of Russians visible opposite Inkerman on the north side of -the Tchernaya, and their movements are very mysterious. They have sent a -large body of cavalry to the east of the valley of Balaklava, and at the -same time a body of infantry moved off towards the north. The scenery of -our camp-ground and the country has now assumed a truly wintry aspect. -The lofty peaks and ridges which close up the valley of Balaklava are -covered with snow, which gives them the appearance of great height; in -the valley and plateau the snow is over three feet deep, and streaked by -lines of men and horses carrying up provisions to the camp. The number -of dead horses on the wayside increases daily, every slough across the -path is marked by a dead horse or mule. At the present rate of mortality -the whole division, which can only muster about 600 horses, will be -almost extinct in one month more. I went over the camp of the 63rd -Regiment, to see a first cousin of mine, named Philip McGurn. I was -sorry to learn that he had been severely wounded in the thigh by a piece -of a shell, and was sent down to Scutari hospital. The regiment could -only muster twelve men for duty, the remainder were either killed or -died from sickness in hospital. The 46th Regiment have only about fifty -men fit for duty; the Scots Fusilier Guards have lost, since they came -out, upwards of 1000 men, and can now only muster about three hundred on -parade; and many other regiments in a like proportion. - -The duty of carrying provisions and rum from Balaklava to the front is -very trying on the men; every two men carry a beaker of rum, biscuit or -pork, slung from a pole between them; they march about six miles in this -manner, from Balaklava to Head Quarters; horses cannot do this trying -work, for they cannot keep their legs, and almost every hundred yards -along the way is marked by the carcase of one of these animals. I passed -through the French Camp, on my way foraging for wood, and went into -several of the men's tents, and was surprised to see the misery they -were in. It must not be inferred that the French soldiers are healthy, -whilst we are all sickly. I was astonished to see so many lying sick in -their tents, and dying with dysentery, diarrhœa, scurvy, and pulmonary -complaints. Their men were allowed to lie sick in their tents, which -differ from us very much; when our men get sick, they are sent to -hospital at once, and there attended by a doctor. - -January 14th.—It is thawing fast to-day, and the roads are resuming -their former sloppy state, which has increased the difficulties of -supplying the men considerably. - -The cavalry are getting up sheds for their horses, and sheep-skin coats -have been distributed to some of the men. I wonder when the 17th -Regiment are going to get any warm clothing, or sheep-skin coats? Some -officers it is true, have got some warm jackets, and not before they -wanted them. This week large quantities of clothing were served to some -of the regiments. It must not, however, be imagined that the supplies -sent up are equal to the demand; several regiments have not received a -stitch yet, although large quantities have been sent out from England. -Whose fault is it? The sick in the hospitals, on the hill tops, suffer -severely from cold, and the snow blows into their very blankets. -However, such supplies as the men have had prove of the greatest -service, and have saved many lives. Consider what men suffer with snow -three feet deep about the tents. The men scarcely know what fuel is in -many regiments; they break up empty pork barrels and anything that will -burn to cook their meals, or grub into the earth for roots and stumps to -make a fire. This is enough to make the poor, worn-out, exhausted -soldier despair before he sinks to rest; sigh that he cannot share the -sure triumph and certain honour and glories of the day when our flag -shall wave from the citadel of Sebastopol! Although our patience is -sorely tried, yet there is no deep despair here among the troops; no one -for an instant feels the slightest doubt of ultimate success. - -If British courage, daring, bravery and a strong arm in the fight, -contempt of death and love for our Most Gracious Sovereign Lady the -Queen and our country; if honour and glory could have won Sebastopol, it -had been ours long ago, and may be ours at any time. We are prepared for -a dreadful sacrifice, and not one of us for an instant has the least -misgiving as to the result. But let our country at least feel that the -soldiers now lying on the wet ground before Sebastopol, starving and in -rags, deserve at her hands the greenest and the brightest laurels and -rewards, and we trust that she may be prepared to reward those gallant, -noble officers and soldiers, who in such a position deserve the highest -honour she can confer upon them. Let England know them, as the -descendants of that glorious army (led by their illustrious chief His -Grace the Duke of Wellington) who thwarted the great Buonaparte in Spain -and Portugal, who fought at Quatre-Bras, Ligny, and Waterloo; and let -England recollect that in fighting her battles against a powerful enemy -at that time, we have now to maintain a struggle with foes still more -stubborn and barbarous, with a terrible climate, and if they triumphed -over the one she may rest assured, as we are, that she will triumph over -the other. - -With regard to the prospects of the Russians, there can be no doubt that -means of communication exist between Inkerman and Sebastopol along the -south banks of the estuary of the Tchernaya. It is necessary that more -decisive steps be taken to intercept supplies for their garrison, or to -harass them more in their attempts to bring provisions to the city. -After we seized the Woronzoff road, it was thought that no other means -of approach, except by a mountain path, existed between Simpheropol and -Sebastopol, on the south side. There can be no doubt that another road -has been found out, which enables them to go from Inkerman along the -base of the heights on the southern side, and traverse the ravines which -lead along the banks of the river into the city. - -Waggons can be seen every day coming down from the heights over the -Tchernaya river toward Sebastopol, and large bodies of the enemy are -visible, passing frequently and disappearing mysteriously into a -subterranean passage leading to the citadel. - - - - -[Illustration] - -CHAPTER XVI. - - TRENCHES—CANAL OF MUD—RUSSIAN NEW YEAR—HEAVY FIRE—ON SENTRY—THE - SORTIE—OLD BROWN BESS—SORTIE—ARRIVAL IN CAMP—NEW STYLE OF - CANDLE—FLINT AND STEEL—MAKING COFFEE—HEAVY SNOW—NO FIRE—WARM - CLOTHING—SHOT AND SHELL. - - -January 16th.—A strong party of the 17th Regiment marched to the -trenches yesterday evening, and in going down got wet to the skin. A -heavy thaw set in, and the trenches became a canal of mud; when we -arrived, we remarked that the Russians were very active inside the town, -and had lighted watchfires on the north side, and illuminated the -heights over the Tchernaya with rows of lights, in the form of a cross, -which shone brilliantly through the darkness of the cold, wet, and damp -winter's night. They were evidently celebrating their new year; light -shone from the windows of most of the houses and public buildings. Our -lonely sentries lying on the ground in front of our advanced trench, our -muskets loaded and capped, with a watchful eye on every embrasure in -front of us; we fancied that the Russians in Sebastopol tried to annoy -us with their lights and gaiety. At midnight all the church bells in the -city began ringing; it was evident that a solemn religious ceremony was -about to take place. We were all warned to be on the alert, and all our -advanced posts were strengthened accordingly. After the people came out -of the churches, about one o'clock in the morning, they gave a loud -cheer; our sailors and artillery who manned the guns in our batteries, -responded by opening a heavy fire on them, as did also the French on our -right and left, when the Russians in return began one of the fiercest -cannonades along their position that we have yet heard; their batteries -vomited forth floods of flame, which broke through the smoke as -lightning through the thunder-cloud, and we could see distinctly the -houses and buildings in the city, and their batteries crowded with -soldiers. The roaring of round shot, whistling and bursting of shells, -filled the intervals between the deafening roll of big guns. The round -shot passed over our trenches rapidly, ploughing up the ground into -furrows as they passed us by, or striking into our parapet with a thud. -Our "Blue Jackets" and artillery had to shelter themselves closely under -their batteries, and could barely reply to the volleys which ploughed up -our parapets, knocking sandbags, gabions, and fascines all about the -men's heads, and not unfrequently knocking some of them off; -nevertheless they always laid their guns correctly, sending the -destructive missile into the embrasure with a vengeance. While the -firing was going on a strong body of the enemy had been pushed up the -hill towards our works in front, on the flank of the left attack. I was -one of a chain of sentries, at twelve paces apart, lying down fifty -yards in front of our advanced trench. When we saw a strong column of -Russians coming out of their batteries and advancing up the hill, we -passed the word to each other, when the line of sentries fired on them -and retreated into the trench, giving the alarm to our men, the -field officer in charge sending back to the other parallels for -reinforcements, which arrived in good time to assist us in driving the -Russians from our works. In the meantime, the enemy had advanced into -our trenches, notwithstanding we kept blazing at them during their -advance, and standing against them, on the escarpment of our trench, -with our bayonets at the charge. They forced into our trench in large -numbers, when we had a desperate hand-to-hand fight; we were completely -jammed together, so that as we pulled the bayonet out of one we knocked -another over with the butt end of our musket. - -The officers fought bravely, cutting the Russians down with every -stroke. One officer in cutting a Russian broke his sword, which nearly -cost him his life, only for one of our men guarding off a stab from a -Russian bayonet, he would have been _hors-de-combat_. He soon picked up -a musket, however, and fought bravely with it. I was close to him as he -floored the Russians all around him. I can assure you, gentle reader, -that we all fought as becometh British soldiers, though the odds against -us were ten to one. When the enemy saw the reinforcements coming, they -began to retreat by odd ones, until at last the whole of them retired -toward their outworks in double time. We fired rapidly after them, -giving them chase up to their very batteries, and engaging with them -again in the grave-yard close to the careening battery, where we had a -very hard fight amongst the tombstones. Oh! if we had the Enfield rifle, -instead of the "Old Brown Bess." However, we closed round them in the -grave-yard, dislodging them from behind the tomb-stones, where they took -refuge, cutting off three of their party whom we took prisoners, besides -wounded men we picked up on the field and in the trenches, sending the -latter to the hospital, and the former on board the fleet. In this -affair, two officers and eighteen men were wounded, and six men killed. - -The French had also to resist a strong sortie at the same time, and -drove them back with great loss, and in pursuit got inside the Russian -advanced batteries, where they had a hand-to-hand fight, and by great -valour succeeded in fighting their way clear of the enemy, and returned -to their own trenches. At daylight all was quiet, except an odd shot now -and then as a reminder. Having been relieved that evening by the 21st -Fusiliers, we arrived in camp completely exhausted with hunger, wet and -hard fighting, our clothes being saturated, it having thawed in the -night, and now turned round to freeze, stiffening our clothes with -icicles, the noise of which, as we marched along, reminded us of the -ancient warriors in coats of mail. When I reached my hut, Dandy was -there, but no fire,—our wood had been used up; he had been roused up in -the night to reinforce the trenches, and carrying shot during the day, -he was as weary as I was. How to get a drink of hot coffee was the next -thought which troubled me, I wanted it badly indeed. What did I do? I -tore a strip off the nether end of my shirt, set it on an empty -blacking-tin with some pork fat, and lit it with a flint and steel which -I always carried in my pack (our matches being too damp to light, and -besides they were very scarce), set my canteen over the blaze with a -little water in it at first, making the coffee after the water boiled, -then adding more water; we then fried some biscuits in pork fat over the -blaze. This new invention proved very useful afterwards, not only to -Dandy and myself, but to the officers and men of the regiment; you can -scarcely imagine how quick water will boil over a blaze of this kind. - -January 19th. Frost continues with frequent showers of snow, which -enables us to get up provisions. The artillery were employed to-day with -their waggons carrying up shot, shell, and powder to the depôt. - -January 20th. We had a heavy fall of snow during the night; it is now -four feet deep over the plain. The preparations for a general -bombardment are progressing rapidly; upwards of seventy big guns and -mortars, with sea service siege guns, are all up at the depôt, and if -this frost lasts, will be in the batteries very shortly, if the frost -and snow enable us to get up heavy guns and mortars. Several men have -been frozen in their tents, and several men have been sent to hospital -from the trenches with severe frost bites and suffering from bitter cold -wind and frost. When a path has been once broken through the snow, men -and horses can get along much more easily than to wade through the deep -mud as heretofore, but the temperature is very trying in the tents, -particularly when we have no wood to make a fire. Many regiments have -been served out with fur coats, long boots, mitts, guernseys, and -flannel waistbands and socks. But alas, none of these needful articles -have reached the 17th Regiment yet, except the men in hospital, who have -received a few articles of warm clothing. It is a most melancholy -subject for reflection to see our present army. There is scarcely a -regiment to be recognised now, save by its well known camp-ground. The -officers cannot be distinguished from the privates, unless when they -wear their swords. What a harvest death has reaped, and many more are -ripe for the sickle. It is sad to see the noble officers who have been -brought up in luxury sharing the same fate as the private soldiers. I -went into an officer's tent the other day, and I was sorry to see him -(Lieutenant Brinkman) sitting in his tent shivering with cold and trying -to cut out a pair of leggings off the end of his blanket. As I helped -him to cut them out, he says: "Faughnan, they may talk at home about us -noble officers of the British army, and imagine us sitting in a snug -tent with warm clothing and gorgeous uniforms, partaking of the fare -that England has generously sent out here to her gallant officers and -soldiers, but which none of us have yet received, and I am afraid never -will, if this weather lasts long. It would be more comfortable to be a -sweep in London than an officer out here." - -We had 400 men employed to-day January 29th, carrying shot and shell -from the depôt to the trenches. The snow fell during the night and -covered the ground four feet deep, but the cold wind drifted it to the -depth of six feet in some places. The wind blew so bitterly cold that -the mules and horses refused to face it; but the men came trudging along -in a dreary string, and there was something mournful in the aspect of -the long lines moving across the expanse of glittering snow. When these -men came back to camp they had very blue noses and pale faces; and as to -their clothes, what would the people of England have thought if they -beheld their gallant army! most of the officers as ragged as the men; -and many officers have been crippled by frost and obliged to go on leave -with their feet badly frostbitten. Several men go about barefooted, up -to their knees in snow; they could not get their frozen boots on their -swelled feet. There was very severe frost last night, January 23rd. - -The activity of the heads of departments which has been recently -observable, is becoming more developed every day. Our quartermaster has -received to-day, among other useful things for the regiment, a supply of -Enfield rifles, to replace the "Old Brown Bess;" they will be served out -to the men to-morrow; also a quantity of sheepskin jackets, long boots, -guernseys, flannel waist bands, mitts, and fur caps. We are hard worked -bringing these articles up to camp; we are doing the work of -commissariat mules. As we were coming up we passed a large number of -sick and dying men who were sent down to Balaklava on mules and bat -horses; they formed one of the most ghastly processions that could be -imagined; many of these men were all but dead, with closed eyes, open -mouths, and pale haggard faces; they were borne along two on each mule, -one on each side, back to back. One of them died on the way down, his -corpse looked most ghastly. Strapped upright to the seat, the legs -hanging down stiff, the eyes staring wide open, the head and body -nodding with frightful mockery of life at each stride of the mule over -the broken ground. As the dead man passed, the only remarks our men made -were, "there is one more poor fellow out of pain at any rate." There -were several cases of frost-bite among them, but they all seemed alike -on the verge of death. We arrived at the front by six p.m.; the road -being hard, we made rapid progress to get to camp by daylight. Next -morning January 24th, we handed over to the quartermaster the old Brown -Bess, and received a splendid Enfield rifle in its stead; we also -received one pair of long boots, one fur cap each, and several received -sheepskin coats, mitts, guernseys, flannel bands, and socks, with a few -large overcoats for the sentries. It would astonish a stranger to go -from Balaklava to the front to see the number of dead horses and mules -along the wayside; in every hole are the remains of these animals torn -by dogs and vultures. The attitudes of some of the skeletons were -curious; some have dropped dead and are frozen stiff as they fell; -others seem struggling to rise from their miry grave; most of these -carcasses have been skinned by the Turks and French, who use the hides -to cover their huts. About five miles of the country are dotted all over -with these carcasses, in every stage of decay. Were it summer time, -around Balaklava would be a great pest-house, full of festering -carcasses of dead mules and horses. The evening after we were served out -with new rifles, long boots and fur caps, the 17th Regiment furnished -400 men for the trenches. The weather was clear, dry and cold, but we do -not care now for the cold, since we got our long boots, fur caps, and -warm clothing to protect us from the sharp biting frost. We are in -splendid spirits, and felt comfortable during the night in our new boots -and fur caps. After we arrived in the trenches, the Russians opened a -storm of musketry on us, as if they knew we were armed with the Enfield -rifle, and were anxious for us to try it, which we soon did, to their -astonishment. The Russian fire was particularly directed against our -works the whole night; after daylight the firing recommenced with great -vigour, all along our lines. There could be no less than 3000 men -engaged on each side, firing as hard as they could pull a trigger; the -lines were marked by thick, curling smoke. The fire slackened on both -sides about ten o'clock. Not a night now passes without severe -rifle-shooting from behind the parapets, and between the lines. Our -works are pushed almost within one hundred and fifty yards of the -Russian batteries, and on the left almost into the town, and its -suburbs, but the ruined houses of these suburbs are turned into defences -for their sharpshooters, and the town itself is almost one formidable -battery, from the glacis to the ridge over the sea, on which the south -side of the town is situated. Our batteries are in good order, and ready -for the heavy siege-guns, which can be put into them in a few days; as -the ground is hard we can easily get them into position. In the skirmish -last night, one Russian officer was taken prisoner on the right attack -by the 47th Regiment, who manned the trenches. We have received several -deserters from the Russians within the last week, who gave a fearful -account of how the Russians are suffering from cold and hunger; they -showed us some hard black bread they brought with them in their -haversacks. It is evident that the struggle between us and the Russians -will soon be renewed with greater vigour than before; the clear frosty -days and nights have given hearts and spirits to our men, but the -Russians have also derived advantage from the improved condition of the -roads and country. We hear they have thrown large quantities of stores -into the garrison recently. - -When I returned from the trenches Dandy had plenty of hot coffee and -fried biscuits ready for me, as well as an extra gill of hot rum. We -find our hut very comfortable these cold frosty nights, and we now get -two nights off trench duty. Notwithstanding the clear frosty weather, -the transport of clothes, fuel and provisions entails considerable -hardships on our men; the sick make little progress towards recovery, -and the number of them sent down to Balaklava every day is a proof of -the unsatisfactory condition of the health of our army. Mules and horses -have been sent down to Balaklava for warm clothing for those regiments -whose men are nearly all sick. The coffee, for the first time, has been -issued to us roasted, which we find a great luxury compared to how we -have been getting it; vegetables, however, are greatly needed, picks, -spades, shovels and billhooks are in much request, and are greatly -needed to clear the camp, dig graves and chop wood, when we get any, but -we have got none as yet. - - -[Illustration] - - - - -[Illustration] - -CHAPTER XVII. - - THE RAILWAY—LORD RAGLAN—COSSACKS—THE NAVVIES—RUSSIAN DESERTERS— - THE RAILWAY. - - -The railway from Balaklava to the front, under Mr. Doyne, C.E., is -making rapid progress; about two miles of rails have been laid down. It -winds its way from the post-office in Balaklava towards Kadikoi, passing -by Mrs. Seacoles' well known door (the half-way house), and is graded as -far as the 4th division. The sleepers are on the ground, and will be -laid in the course of two weeks. A stationary engine has been placed on -the hill above the Kadikoi, which pulls the trucks up from Balaklava; -the Turks are astonished by the puffs of steam from its iron lungs, and -its shrieks and screams as it is put in motion by the engineers, to -their great wonder and astonishment. - -Lord Raglan visited Balaklava to-day and inspected the railway, with -which he was well pleased; he was accompanied by several staff officers. -After inspecting the progress and conditions of various departments in -the town, he went on board a man-of-war in the harbour, to visit some -sick soldiers who were going down to Scutari. He returned to Head -Quarters at six o'clock. I am sorry that sickness does not diminish, -dysentery and diarrhœa seem on the increase every day, and, I am afraid -that scurvy is beginning to show itself among the troops. It is no -wonder that the men get scurvy, living on salt rations and hard biscuits -without any vegetables, sleeping in their clothes; without a chance to -wash themselves or change their clothes; water being so scarce we cannot -wash our linen. I refrain from describing the state of the army for the -want of clean linen or water to wash with; suffice it to say that -several new flannel waist bands served to the men were thrown away, and -can be seen on the camp ground, occupied by a large army in skirmishing -order. I took my canteen, water-keg and soap down to the spring one day -to wash my linen; I waited two hours for my turn, after which I filled -my canteen and water-keg. I then washed my clothes on a flat stone, then -waited two hours more for water to rinse them, making four hours in all -I had to wait. The reader can understand what difficulty the men have to -keep themselves clean. - -February 21st. The Russians made a strong sortie on the British lines -last night, and were repulsed with considerable loss; the light division -had six men killed and ten wounded. - -The Cossacks, on the hills beyond Inkerman, have nearly disappeared and -there are no indications that they intend to occupy the hills again, or -construct batteries there as was supposed. The greatest secrecy is -observed respecting our future operations; strict orders have been given -that officers and others are not to give information regarding our works -and movements but to those entitled to demand it. I was on trench duty -last night when it froze hard, with bitter cutting wind, drifting the -snow into our eyes and filling the trenches; but the sun shone out in -the morning and the wind fell. The day was clear and cold, and the warm -clothing and long boots enabled us to bear the severity of the weather, -which would have been fatal to many, had we been in the same state as -our comrades on whom winter fell with all its rigour, while they had -nothing to wear but their old regimental clothing. We are now well -secured with long boots, fur caps and warm jackets. As the day was -clear, I could see the Russians plainly, in spite of the dazzling effect -of the snow and cold. The bridge of boats across the creek, from the -government buildings to the other side of the town, was crowded with -men, who were busily engaged passing across supplies and rolling barrels -to the other side, shewing that there is a centre of supply or depôt in -the government buildings behind the Redan and opposite the fire of our -batteries. Several lighters under sail and full of men were standing -over from one side of the harbour to the other, and boats manned with -crews dressed in white were tugging scows laden with stores to the south -side of the town. A small steamer was also very active, puffing and -splurting about the harbour in all directions, furrowing the surface of -the water, which was as smooth as glass, so completely is the harbour -land-locked—the men-of-war with their white ensigns and St. Andrew's -cross, lying in a line at the north side. The masts of three vessels -could be seen plainly above the buildings; further away to the right -toward Inkerman the white houses and barracks shone brightly in the sun, -and the bells of the churches were ringing out clearly in the frosty -air; the tall houses running up the hillside, with its massive, public -buildings, gave Sebastopol rather an imposing appearance. There was not -a soul to be seen in the streets except soldiers running across the open -space from one battery to another, relieving guards or posting sentries. -Outside the town the eye rests on walls of earth piled up ten or twelve -feet high and twenty feet thick, with embrasures, in which I could see -the muzzles of the guns pointing toward our batteries; those works are -of tremendous strength, with a very deep and broad ditch in front. Round -the suburbs of the town are broken-down, white-washed cottages, the -roofs of which are all gone, the doors off and the windows out, the -walls are left standing at a certain distance from the batteries with -holes made in them so that the guns can cover their object; they are -also used for sharpshooters. - -The picture of misery presented by these suburbs is very striking, in -most instances the destruction has been caused by our shot, and the -houses all round the Flagstaff and Garden batteries have been blown into -heaps of rubbish and mortar. There have been a great many shells thrown -by the Russians to-day from a mortar battery towards the sea, projecting -the shells into the air every half minute or so across a hill in front -of it, so as to annoy our working party, who were engaged in throwing up -a trench towards the Quarantine fort. The white smoke rushing into the -air expands into rings; then follows the heavy dull report; then comes -the shrill whistle of the shell travelling through the air as it -describes its curve, and descends with great velocity, increasing as it -reaches the ground, sometimes sinking deep into the earth, tearing it up -with the explosion, to the destruction of those around. It is a most -unpleasant reflection when we see a whistling Dick coming in the air, -and run out of its way behind a traverse. To how many families have they -carried deep sorrow and mourning. The smoke clears away, then men gather -around one who moves not, they bear him away on a stretcher, and a small -mound of fresh earth marks for a little time the resting-place of the -soldier, whose wife, mother, children, or sisters are left destitute of -all happiness, save the memory and the sympathy of their country. Who -will let the inmates of that desolate cottage in England, Ireland, or -Scotland, know of their bereavement? However there goes another shell -which does nothing but knock up a cloud of earth and stones. - -After being relieved, we marched to our gloomy camp under a heavy fire -from the enemy; but my hut was not so gloomy as the men's tents, it was -warm and comfortable, my comrade had a little fire, keeping my coffee -and fried biscuits warm, with a cotton rag dipped in pork fat as a -substitute for a candle. - -February 25th. The 17th Regiment was roused at two o'clock this morning -and marched down to reinforce the covering party in the trenches. The -Russians commenced one of the most furious cannonades we have heard -since the siege began. The whole of the Russian batteries from our left -opened with immense force and noise, the Redan, Garden and Malakoff -batteries began firing round shot and shell. Our second parallel and -twenty-one gun batteries were exposed to the weight of this most -terrible fire, which shook the very earth and lighted up the sky with -incessant lightning flashes for two hours, under cover of which a very -strong sortie was made, and for an hour the musketry rolled incessantly -with vigour enough for a general engagement. As soon as the fire opened, -an aide-de-camp rode to our lines and gave the order for the 17th, 57th, -and 20th Regiments to march to the trenches, and in less than five -minutes these three regiments were moving in double time toward the -trenches. On arrival, we found that the covering party had succeeded in -driving the enemy from our trenches. We then returned to our camp and -lay down for a couple of hours. The Russians had made a sortie on the -French lines at the same time, and were also driven back with great loss. - -At the request of General Ostensacken, an armistice was granted from -twelve till one o'clock to-day, to enable the Russians to bury their -dead. There was not much firing this morning; at twelve o'clock white -flags were run up on the batteries on both sides, and immediately -afterwards a body of Russians issued from the Redan, Flagstaff, and -Malakoff batteries, and proceeded to carry off their dead; and our men, -with the French, emerged from our batteries on a similar errand. A few -Russian officers advanced about half way towards our batteries, when -they were met by our officers and the French where extreme courtesy, the -interchange of profound salutations and bowings marked the interview. -The officers walked up and down, and skakos were raised and caps doffed -politely as each came near an enemy; in the meantime the soldiers were -carrying the dead and wounded off the field. About one o'clock the -Russians retired inside their batteries, and immediately after the white -flags were hauled down. The troops had scarcely disappeared over the -parapet, when the flash and roar of a gun from the Malakoff announced -that the war had begun once more, and our batteries almost -simultaneously fired a gun; in a moment afterwards the popping of rifles -commenced as usual on both sides. - -The Cossacks about Balaklava are particularly busy throwing out their -piquets and sentries all along the top of Canrobert's Hill. These -sentries can see everything that goes on in the plain, from the entrance -to Balaklava to the edge on which our right rests; not a horse, cart, or -man can go in or out of the town, without being seen by these sentries, -for they are quite visible to any person who gazes from the top of -Canrobert's Hill. The works of the railway must cause these Cossacks -very serious apprehensions. What can they, or do they, think of them? -Gradually they see villages of white huts rise up on the hillside and in -the valleys, and from the cavalry camp to the heights of Balaklava they -can see line after line of wooden buildings, and can discover the tumult -and bustle on Kadikoi. This may be all very puzzling; but it can be -nothing to the excitement of looking at the railway trucks rushing round -the hill at Kadikoi, and running down the incline to the town at the -rate of twenty miles an hour. The Cossacks gallop up to the top of the -hill to look at this phenomenon, and they caper about shaking their -lances in wonder and excitement when the trucks disappear. - -About 300 sick men were sent down to Balaklava to-day, on the ambulance -mules. - -The preparations for the general bombardment are progressing with great -rapidity, and arrangements have been made to send up two thousand pounds -of ammunition per day to the front from the harbour; about two hundred -mules have been pressed into the service in addition to the railway, and -the Highlanders, and Artillery horses are employed in the carriage of -heavy shot and shell to the front, a duty which greatly disables and -distresses them. The Guards are all down at Balaklava; some of them seem -in very delicate health; a few old campaigners have attained that happy -state in which no hardships or privations can have any effect on them. -The silence and calm of the last few days are but the omens of the -struggle which is about to be resumed very speedily for the possession -of Sebastopol. The Russians are silent, because we do not impede their -work; we are silent, because we are preparing for the contest, and are -using every energy to bring up from Balaklava the enormous amount of -projectiles and mountains of ammunition which will be required for the -service of our batteries, when we open a general bombardment. - -The railway has begun to render us some service in saving the hard -labour attendant on the transport of shot and shell, and enables us to -form a small depôt at the distance of two miles and a half from -Balaklava, which is, however, not large enough for the demands made upon -it, and it is emptied as soon as it is formed by parties from the -regiments in front, who carry ammunition to the camp depôt, four miles -further on. - -The navvies work at the railway hard and honestly, with a few -exceptions, and the dread of the provost marshal has produced a -wholesome influence on the dispositions of the refractory. About 200 men -of the Naval Brigade have been detailed to assist in the works of the -railway, in order that the construction of it may be hastened as much as -possible. - -March 4th. I was one of a covering party in the advanced trench; it was -a bright moonlight night, with sharp, cold frost. The Russians availed -themselves of the brightness of the night by keeping up a constant fire -of musketry on our trenches. At daybreak the volleys of musketry lasted -an hour, mingled with the roar of round shot, whistling and bursting of -shells, under cover of which they made a strong sortie on our trenches, -and were repulsed with heavy loss; they also made a strong sortie on the -French lines at the same time, and met no better success. General -Canrobert and staff rode past our camp to-day on his way to visit the -British Head-Quarters, where he met Lord Raglan and several generals of -our army, with whom he held a council of war, but nothing is known -publicly respecting the result of the council. - -March 6th. Yesterday our first spring meeting took place and was -numerously attended. The races came off on a level piece of ground near -the Tchernaya River, and were regarded with much interest by the -Cossacks on Canrobert's Hill. They evidently thought at first that the -assemblage was connected with some military demonstration, and galloped -about in a state of great excitement to and fro. In the midst of the -races a party of twelve Russians was seen approaching the sentry on the -old redoubt beyond Inkerman; the sentry fired and ten of them fled, and -when the piquet came up to the sentry they found two deserters had come -in from the Russians. One of them was an officer, and the other had been -an officer, but had suffered degradation. They were both Poles, spoke -French fluently, and expressed great satisfaction at their escape and -said, "Send us wherever you please, provided we never see Russia again." -They stated that they had deceived the men who were with them into the -belief that the sentry was one of their own outposts, and, as they had -lately joined, they believed them, and advanced boldly till the sentry -fired at them, when they discovered their mistake and fled. As they were -well mounted, they dashed towards our lines; the Cossacks tried to cut -them off, but did not succeed. They requested that the horses might be -sent back to the Russian lines, as they did not belong to them—they did -not wish to be accused of theft. The horses were then taken to the brow -of the hill and set free, when they galloped towards the Cossacks. The -races proceeded as usual, and subsequently towards six o'clock the crowd -dispersed. - - -[Illustration] - - - -[Illustration] - -CHAPTER XVII. - - ST. PATRICK'S DAY—RIFLE PITS—FOURTH DIVISION—FRENCH LOSS—THE - SIEGE—GENERAL ATTACK—FLAG OF TRUCE—BURYING THE DEAD—WOODEN - HUTS—TURKISH TROOPS—DIVINE SERVICE. - - -March 18th. Yesterday being St. Patrick's day, many officers and men -were to be seen early in the morning on the hill-side in search of -something green to wear as a substitute for a real shamrock, the old -symbol of Erin. In the afternoon we had horseraces to celebrate St. -Patrick's day, and show that Irishmen, though far from their native -land, had not forgotten the rights and ceremonies by which this -celebrated day was remembered by them. They were in excellent spirits, -the day was fine, and the ground dry; both officers and men enjoyed the -day's sport; the thunder of the siege guns rose up frequently above the -shouts of the crowd in the heat of the races. There has been a fierce -struggle between the French and Russians last night, for the possession -of the rifle-pits. These pits are situated in front of the Mamelon, and -the Russian sharpshooters occupy them every night, and keep up a most -galling and destructive fire against the exposed parts of the advanced -trenches of our right attack as well as that of the French. The shot of -our batteries make the rifle pits too hot a place for the Russians -during the day, but at night they come back and re-occupy them, -supported by large bodies of infantry; in these encounters the enemy has -had many men killed and wounded. These rifle pits have cost both armies -large quantities of ammunition, as well as the sacrifice of many men; -but the French are determined to wrest them from the Russians at any -cost, for they are a source of the greatest annoyance to them. They sent -a strong force of about six thousand men down close to our second and -light divisions, before dusk yesterday evening, and shortly afterwards -they were sent to the advanced trenches, on our right; the covering -party and riflemen were ordered out to occupy the rifle pits; they -advanced but found the Russians had anticipated them, and that the enemy -were already in possession of the pits. A fierce battle then commenced, -but it was found that the enemy were there in much larger force than was -expected; therefore the French could not then drive them from their -position, notwithstanding their repeated attempts to do so. The contest -was carried on by musketry, and the volleys which rang out incessantly -for five hours, roused up the whole camp. - -From the roll of musketry, and the flashing light in front, one would -have thought that a general engagement between large armies was going -on. The character of the fight had something peculiar about it, owing to -the absence of round shot or shell. About 7.30 o'clock, p.m., the 4th -division was turned out by order of the General, Sir John Campbell, and -took up its position on the hill near the Green Hill battery, and the -light division, under Sir George Brown, at the same time marched towards -the 21 gun battery; the second and third divisions were also turned out -and marched to the trenches in their front, after the French had -desisted and retired from the assault on the rifle-pits. These -divisions, after remaining under arms for five hours, were marched back -to their respective camps. Had the French required our assistance we -were ready to give it; but they were determined on taking these pits, -which are in front of their advanced trenches, without any aid from us. -The Zouaves bore the heaviest part of this battle; we could distinctly -hear their officers between the volleys of musketry, cheering on their -men, and encouraging them, and the rush of men generally followed, then -a volley of musketry was heard, followed by rapid file firing, then a -Russian cheer and more musketry. Between each volley we could hear the -officer again giving the command. This work went on for about five -hours, when the French at length retired. The French loss at this affair -was twenty officers and 200 rank and file killed, wounded and taken -prisoners; the Russian loss was over 600 killed and wounded. - -March 18th, 5 p.m. General Canrobert attended by his staff, passed down -by our right attack, and examined the position of the rifle-pits, -Malakoff and Mamelon. At twilight a strong force of French with a -battery of field pieces were moved down towards the advanced works, and -another attempt was made to take the rifle-pits, and after a hard-fought -battle they succeeded in dislodging the Russians, amid a blaze of fire -from the forts at daybreak. The French now directed a heavy fire from -these pits against the Mamelon and Malakoff, reversing the sand bags and -loop holes. - -March 23rd. The 17th Regiment furnished a working party of one hundred -men for the advanced trenches yesterday evening. At twilight, when we -got to the trenches, the engineer officer laid out the work. It was a -new trench. Every file of men got a pickaxe and shovel, and were placed -at six yards apart, on the open ground, without any shelter from the -Russian grape and canister. We placed a man on the look-out for the -flash of the guns, while we worked hard to throw up cover. About twelve -o'clock the sentries in advance of us gave the alarm, by firing upon the -advancing Russians, who came so suddenly we had scarcely time to snatch -up our rifles before they were upon us, bayoneting us before we were -prepared to receive them. When the sentries first discovered them they -were close upon us. Taken at a great disadvantage, and pressed by -superior numbers, we met them hand to hand with the bayonet; our men -fought like British lions, meeting the assault with undaunted courage. -We drove the enemy back at the point of the bayonet; pursued by our -shot, they retired under cover of their batteries. The attack was -general along the whole line. At ten, p.m., our batteries, with the -French, began to shell the town, pouring our rockets every five minutes -in streams into the city. The sentries in advance of Chapman's battery -gave the alarm also that the Russians were advancing in force on the -trenches; the 20th, 21st, 57th, and 68th Regiments were the covering -parties on the left attack. They were pretty well prepared for the -enemy. About the same time the French were attacked by columns of the -enemy. As the French were sorely pressed, our troops extended along a -portion of their trenches. On the left attack the Russians advanced in -great force, through a weak part of the trenches, turning the third -parallel; they killed and wounded several of our men, and had advanced -to the second parallel, when our covering party came down upon them and -drove them back after a sharp conflict. On the right the Russians came -on our men very suddenly. The 34th Regiment had a strong force to -contend against, and as Colonel Kelly, their commanding officer, was -leading them on, he got wounded and was taken prisoner by the Russians, -and carried off to Sebastopol. After an hour's fight the enemy were -driven back to their batteries. During this affair we had ten officers -and one hundred men placed _hors-de-combat_; the French had fifteen -officers and two hundred men killed, wounded and taken prisoners. On the -other hand, the enemy lost between seven hundred and eight hundred men. -The number of dead Russians lying along the front of our trenches proved -that they got a severe chastisement, and that they experienced a heavy -loss. - -The bodies of one officer and sixteen men remained in our trench until -next day, and in front of our trenches the ground was covered with their -dead. About one o'clock next day flags of truce were run up from the -Redan and Malakoff, and shortly after white flags were waving from the -top of ours and the French batteries. Previous to the white flags being -run up, not a soul was visible in front of the lines. The instant the -flags were hoisted, friend and foe swarmed out of the batteries and -trenches. The sight was a strange one,—the French, English and Russian -officers saluting each other most courteously as they passed, and a -constant interchange of civilities took place. But while all this -civility was going on, the soldiers of both sides were carrying off -their dead comrades from the blood-stained ground, which was covered -with strong proofs of the recent battle. There British, French and -Russian soldiers, lying as they had fallen in their gore, with broken -muskets, bayonets, pouches, belts, fragments of clothing, pools of -blood, broken gabions, fascines, and torn sand-bags, visible on every -side; and the solemn procession of soldiers, bearing their comrades to -their last resting place, looked a most ghastly spectacle. In the midst -of all this evidence of war a certain amount of lively conversation took -place between the Russians and our men, such as, "Bono Inglais, Francais -no bono, Rooso bono," and they led us to understand that they liked the -British soldiers much better than the French, although we always made it -hot for them whenever we met, for which they gave us the name of "red -devils." It took two hours to bury the dead; at the end of that time the -armistice was over, and scarcely had the white flags disappeared behind -the parapet of the Redan, before a round shot from the sailors' battery -knocked through one of their embrasures, raising a pillar of dust; the -Russians at once replied, and the roar of the big guns drowned all other -noise. It is generally believed by the officers and men, that our -batteries will open a general bombardment on Sebastopol about the tenth -of April. The greatest excitement and activity are displayed in -Balaklava, at the railway station, and all round the harbour, with -crowds of fatigue parties and labourers engaged in piling up shot and -shell, and loading the railway with ammunition, of which immense -quantities are being sent up to the front. - -The first passenger train from the front to Balaklava was one loaded -with sick soldiers, who were sent down to Balaklava. - -On the 2nd April, five trucks filled with sick and wounded men ran down -from the front in less than half an hour; the men of course were much -more comfortable than those sent down on mules during the winter. -Sickness in camp, I am glad to say, is diminishing every day; instead of -sending down a thousand men a week to Scutari, as we did a month ago, we -now despatch on an average only two hundred. - -April 6th. This evening our mortar battery fired several shells into the -Redan, and after the explosion, beams of timber, trunks of bodies, legs -and arms of human beings, were seen to fly up in the air; and after a -time a blaze of fire ran along a portion of the works, which sprang from -one of the enemy's mines. The 68th Regiment furnished one hundred men -for a working party in the advanced trench last night, and were pounced -upon by a working party of Russians, who were throwing up a trench, -within sixty yards of them, and a regular hand to hand fight ensued. The -men of the 68th who were armed with the new Enfield rifle, could not -draw their ramrods; the wood of the rifle, being new, had swelled with -the rain and continued dampness, causing the rifle to get woodbound, -this has occurred more than once to my own knowledge; therefore after -the first volley, they had no resource but to use their bayonet and butt -end of their rifle, billhooks, pickaxes, and spades, which they were -working with when the Russians came upon them. After the sentries gave -the alarm, the covering party from the third parallel came to their -assistance, and at last the Russians were repulsed after a severe -struggle. Our loss was about 60 men killed and wounded; the Russians -lost 200 men killed and wounded, out of 800 who were engaged in the -affair. I am glad to state that the 17th Regiment have got up two wooden -huts at last, one for the grenadiers and the other for the light -company; and besides, we are now getting a small supply of wood from the -commissariat department. The weather is fine, and the camp ground -getting dry. We have also got a divisional canteen established, close to -the camp of the 57th Regiment. We can now purchase several articles of -luxuries, such as butter, cheese, bread, bottled ale and porter, besides -several other useful articles, which the men require to nourish and -strengthen them, after the hardship they suffered during the severe -winter. As regards food and shelter, our men are getting better off -every day! we are getting flannel comforters now when we do not want -them. It is a pity we did not get these things last winter. All the -materials we possess now were to be had for moving them, and the -thankfulness which the survivors feel for the use of them is tinged with -bitter regret that our loved departed comrades can never share again our -present comforts. As these neat huts rise up in rows one after the -other, the eye rests sadly on the rows of humble mounds which mark the -resting-place of those who perished in their muddy blankets under a wet -and cold tent. There is not a regiment out here but has some generous -friend in the mother country, whose care and bounty have provided them -with luxuries and comforts beyond all price to the sick and declining -soldier; some have sent tobacco, cheese, arrowroot, and warm clothing. -The bounty, kindness and love of the people at home have now most -liberally contributed to the wants of the army. About 12,000 Turks have -just landed at Kamiesch Bay; they had a long march to the heights of -Balaklava. It was astonishing that so few men fell out of the ranks or -straggled behind. They had a good brass band, which astonished the -British soldiers by "Rule Britannia" as they marched past our camp; most -of the regiments were preceded by drums, fifes, and trumpets. - -The colonel and his two majors rode at the head of each regiment, richly -dressed, on small but spirited horses, covered with rich saddle-clothes, -and followed by their pipe-bearers, The mules, with the tents, marched -on the right, and the artillery on the left; each gun was drawn by six -horses; the baggage animals marched in rear. The regiments marched in -columns of companies, most of the men were armed with the old flint-lock -muskets, which were clean and bright. They all displayed rich standards -blazing with cloth of gold, and coloured flags with crescent and star -embroidered on them. All the men carried a small pack with a blanket on -top, a small piece of carpet to sit on, and cooking utensils. As they -marched along they presented a very warlike appearance, the reality of -which was enchanced by the thunder of guns at Sebastopol, and the -bursting of shells in the air. The troops attended divine service on -Easter Sunday; the Roman Catholics have erected a small chapel in the -4th division, and a priest celebrated mass outside the chapel, and -preached a most eloquent sermon. The troops were formed up in close -column by regiments, forming three sides of a square the chapel filling -up the fourth side. It was a very imposing sight; the square of soldiers -standing with fixed bayonets, and presenting arms at the elevation of -the Host, the priest in the centre, bare-headed, and his vestments -flowing in the breeze. The Protestants attend divine service in the open -air regularly on Sundays, since the chaplains to the forces have -arrived. On Easter Sunday the French had High Mass in each of their -camps, with all the pomp of military bands. On last Saturday the -regiments of the 4th division turned out every man off duty, and dug a -deep trench and built a fence round the burial ground, placing a rustic -gate at the entrance. - - - - -[Illustration] - -CHAPTER XIX. - - BOMBARDMENT—TENTS BLOWN DOWN—SIEGE—LIEUT. WILLIAMS—WOUNDED— - SAILORS—GO TO HOSPITAL—DESCRIPTION—SARDINIANS—DISCHARGED FROM - HOSPITAL—ATTACK ON QUARRIES—FLAG OF TRUCE—BURYING THE DEAD. - - -Easter Monday at daybreak, the whole line of batteries simultaneously -opened fire on Sebastopol; and as the firing commenced, the overhanging -clouds seemed to have burst with the terrific thunder of the big guns -and mortars, and the rain poured down in torrents accompanied by a high -breeze; so thick was the atmosphere that even the flashes of the guns -were invisible, and the gunners must have fired at guess work by the -flashes of the enemies' batteries, as it was impossible to see more than -a few yards in advance. A driving sheet of rain and a black sea fog -shroud the whole camp, which has resumed the miserable aspect so well -known to us already; tents have been blown down, the mud has already -become very deep, and the ground covered with slush and pools of dirty -water. Our batteries are thundering away continuously in regular bursts, -and are now firing at the rate of forty shots a minute; when they first -opened they fired eighty shots a minute, but, with the down-pouring of -rain and fog, it is hard work. As it was not necessary to press the -gunners, they have slackened the fire considerably. - -The Russians were taken completely by surprise when our batteries opened -fire. The Redan and Garden batteries came into play at once after we -opened, but some time elapsed before the Malakoff or Mamelon answered. A -sharp fusillade took place in the night between our advanced trenches -and the enemy. The piquets were reinforced on the heights of Balaklava, -and on the plain at night. - -Lord Raglan, Sir John Campbell and General Jones, R. E., as wet and -drenching as the day was, posted themselves in their favourite spot at -the Green Hill trench, whence they could get a good view along the whole -of the batteries. At five o'clock the sun descended in a dark pall, -which covered the sky, and cast a pale light upon the masses of curling -vapour across the line of batteries. The outlines of the town were -faintly visible through the mist of smoke and rain. It seemed quivering -inside the lines of fire around it. The ground beneath was lighted up by -incessant flashes of light, and long trails of smoke streamed across it -spurting up in thick volumes tinged with fire. This glimpse of the -batteries, brief though it was, proved extremely satisfactory. The -French batteries were firing with energy on the Flagstaff and Garden -batteries, which were replied to very feebly by the enemy. - -April 12. The 17th Regiment furnished 450 men for the trenches. After -being inspected at sundown by the Brigadier, Colonel McPherson, C.B., we -marched down to the Green Hill trench, under the command of a field -officer; the 68th Regiment furnished a like number. As we were relieving -the 21st and 57th Regiments, the Russians opened fire with tremendous -salvoes from their batteries. Our gunners made excellent practice, and -soon silenced several of their most troublesome guns, and at every shot -the earth was knocked up out of the enemy's parapets and embrasures; our -shell practice was not so good as it might be, on account of bad fuses. - -The French had silenced ten guns on the Flagstaff batteries, and had -inflicted great damage on the outworks. On our side we had silenced half -the guns in the Redan and Malakoff; but the Barrack and Garden Batteries -were not much injured, and kept up a brisk fire against us of round -shot. During the night the firing was very heavy on both sides; there -was a continuous roar of big guns and mortars. We discharged large -quantities of rockets into the town, and our mortars kept up a steady -fire on the Redan and Garden batteries. During the night we were greatly -exposed to the enemy's fire, for we were employed, as hard as we could -work, in patching up embrasures, platforms, and mounting big guns; we -had mounted two guns in the second parallel, broken platforms were -renewed, and damaged guns replaced by others. - -April 13th. At dawn this morning the batteries on both sides commenced -their terrible duel as usual, and it was evident that the Russians had -wonderfully exerted themselves to repair damages during the night; for -they had replaced four or five damaged guns, repaired broken embrasures -and injured parapets, and were as ready to meet our fire as we were to -meet theirs. The firing has not slackened all day; about three o'clock -we were repairing the battery on the left of the second parallel, when -the Russians opened a fierce fire of shell and round shot; one of the -latter knocked the head clean off the shoulders of one man, dashing his -brains into Captain O'Connor's face, and all over the breast of his -tunic. As he was getting the man's brains washed off his face and -clothing, a piece of shell struck Lieutenant Williams, and cut his eye -clean out of his head. As I was gazing with horror at the officer's eye -hanging down on his cheek, a piece of shell struck me on the head, -cutting through my forage cap and sinking into my skull. This was all -done in less than five minutes; the shelling was fearful. I have seen -six shells burst in the trench at one time. Lieutenant Williams and -myself, with several others, were _hors-de-combat_ for some time after. -The doctor in the Green Hill trench dressed our wounds, when we were -conducted by a couple of bandsmen to the hospital. - -The sailors have suffered severely, although they only work about forty -guns in the different batteries; they have lost more men in proportion -to their number than any of the other siege trains; at the time I got -wounded they had then seventy men killed and four wounded, besides two -officers killed and four wounded. The sailors in Chapman's battery -silenced five of the best guns in the Redan yesterday; but the Russians -replaced them during the night, and opened fire from them in the -morning. The Redan is very much damaged on the right and front face, -already four of the embrasures are knocked level with the inside of it, -but the Russians work hard repairing their batteries during the night; -they are so numerous they can spare the men; besides they have not to -carry shot and shell as far as we have. When I got to the hospital the -doctor examined my wound and dressed it and put me to bed; the first I -lay on since I left Gibraltar last year, and the first time I was ever -sick in hospital. The change seemed to me a strange one—the doctors -were so attentive and unremitting in the care of the sick and wounded -men, and so many hospital orderlies waiting on us. I did not think at -the time that I deserved such attention and kindness as they were -bestowing on me; for I often saw a man getting an uglier wound from the -crack of a shillally at a fair in Ireland, but the doctor made me -believe that the wound was much worse than I thought it was at first. - -There were many men in hospital with diarrhœa, dysentery, and a few with -scurvy; sick and wounded men kept coming in from the camp and trenches, -day and night; the worst cases are to be sent down to Balaklava. I am -glad not to be one of them, I do not want to go far from my dear old -regiment. At the end of three weeks, I was returned fit for duty once -more, thanks be to God, and recommended for light duty for a few days. - -May 2nd. I was discharged from hospital this morning; the day was warm -and beautiful, and a gentle breeze fanned the canvas of the wide spread -streets of tents, for we have only two wooden huts up for the 17th -Regiment as yet. I was anxious to have a look at old Sebastopol once -more, and see how it looked after the storm of shot and shell which I -have heard roaring and bursting for the last three weeks that I have -been in hospital; so I went up to Cathcart's Hill, just at the left of -our camp ground. As the day was clear and fine, the reports of the guns -and rifles became more distinct, the white buildings, domes, and cupolas -of Sebastopol stood out with menacing distinctness against the sky, and -the ruined suburbs and massive batteries seemed just the same and looked -as strong as when I saw them three weeks ago. - -May 16. The Sardinians are massing on the hills all round Karanyi daily. -Three steamers have arrived yesterday laden with these troops. They have -landed all ready for the field, with their transport horses, carts, -mules, and vehicles; they looked gay, and every one admired the air and -carriage of those troops. Our eye was much struck by the large, gay -plume of green feathers on the top of their dandy shako. The officers -wear a plume of green ostrich feathers. They carry very small square -tents which are upheld by their lances stuck in the ground, one at each -end of the tent, and their encampment, with its flags all round it, has -a very pretty effect. We are all very sorry to hear that Miss -Nightingale has been ill with fever in Balaklava. - -June 3rd. For the last two weeks firing has been very slack, and trench -duty has gone on quietly with two and three nights off at a time. The -Russians throw an odd shell into our trench, to remind us that they are -on the alert; we can see the shell black in the shining sun, as it -describes its circle high in the air, and at night they are more plainly -seen—with a tail like a comet, they are heard whistling, coming through -the air, apparently up among the stars. - -There has been an unusual languor on the side of the Russians. Some say -it is due to sickness raging in Sebastopol, others say it is due to the -desire of economizing ammunition, but most of us think that it is the -warmth of the weather that has dulled their energies. But there is one -thing that we do know, for we can see it, that they are working away to -strengthen and provision the fortress on the north side. - -June 6th. At three p.m., the whole of the batteries encircling -Sebastopol have once more, for the third time, opened a most terrible -fire on its batteries. The English and French are now in strength and -power equal to any achievement, and in the best of spirits, and are -anxious to get a good charge at the Russians with the bayonet. Every one -feels that the intention of going beyond a vain bombardment is tolerably -plain, and we think with some strong defiance of the risk. This -afternoon Lord Raglan and General Pellisier, with their staff, rode -through the camp, amidst the cheers and acclamations of both their -armies. There cannot be any doubt as to the zeal of those whom they -command. - -Our fire was kept up for the first four hours with the greatest -rapidity. The superiority of our fire over the enemy became apparent at -various points before nightfall, especially on the Redan, which was -under the special attention of the sailors' batteries. After dark the -fire slackened somewhat on both sides, but the same relative advantage -was maintained by our artillery. - -June 7th, at 11 a.m., a shell from the enemy exploded a magazine in our -eight gun battery, and a yell of applause by the Russians followed the -report. Happily the explosion caused very slight harm; one man killed -and one wounded. As the day wore on, it leaked out that something of -import was undoubtedly to take place before its close, and that the -double attack would probably commence at five or six p.m. The fire on -our side which had continued until daybreak steadily assumed a sudden -fury at three o'clock, and was kept up from that hour to the critical -moment with great activity. The affair itself came off but little after -the anticipated time. It was about 7 o'clock p.m., when the head of the -French attacking column climbed its arduous road to the Mamelon. A -rocket was thrown up as a signal to our division, and instantly the -small force of our men made a rush at the Quarries. After a hard hand to -hand fight we drove out the Russians, and turned round the gabions and -commenced to fortify ourselves in our newly acquired position. At the -same time the French went up the side of the Mamelon in most beautiful -style, like a pack of hounds trying to rout a fox from his old cover; -the Zouaves were upon the parapet firing down upon the Russians; the -next moment a flag was up as a rallying point, and was seen to sway to -and fro, now up, now down, as the tide of battle raged round it; and now -like a swarm they were into the Mamelon, and a fierce hand to hand -encounter with the bayonet and musket ensued; and after a very hard -contested battle, the French succeeded in driving the enemy from the -Mamelon. - -In the meantime our men fought at the Quarries, and repelled six -successive attacks of the Russians, who displayed the most singular -daring, bravery, and recklessness of life to obtain possession of the -Quarries. - -June 8th. Repeated attacks were made on our men in the Quarries during -the night, who defended their new acquisition with the utmost courage, -and at great sacrifice of life, against superior numbers, continually -replenished. More than once there was a fierce hand to hand fight in the -position itself. - -The most murderous sortie of the enemy took place about 3 o'clock in the -morning; then the whole batteries were lighted up with a blaze of fire, -and storms of shot were thrown in from the Redan and other batteries -within range. When morning dawned the position held by both French and -English was of the greatest importance. The morning brought out on every -side, along with the perception of advantage gained, and a prey lying at -our feet, all the haste and circumstances of the scene, with its painful -consequence of death and suffering. On our side about 400 rank and file -and 40 officers were killed and wounded. The French had 1,200 killed and -wounded. Next day flags of truce were hoisted from the Malakoff and -Redan and Flagstaff batteries, which announced that the Russians -requested an armistice to bury their dead; it was a grave request to -make in the midst of a fierce bombardment, evidently a ruse to gain -time, events hanging in the balance, success, perhaps, depending upon -the passing moment; but it was granted by Lord Raglan,—I dare not -criticise his lordship,—from one o'clock until six in the evening, -during which time no shot was fired on either side, while the dead -bodies which strewed the hill in front of the Quarries were removed from -the field of slaughter. The corpses which encumbered the earth, and were -in process of removal, gave out faint tokens of coming putrefaction; -fragments of bodies and marks of carnage were interspersed with, as -usual, gabions and broken firelocks. - -During the five hours' armistice the enemy, with their wonted -perseverance, had been making good use of their time, which we knew they -would; and when the firing commenced, which it did instantly the flags -were lowered, a few minutes before 6 o'clock, it was plain that the -Malakoff and Redan had both received a reinforcement of guns; so much -for politeness,—for the Russians were most artful in hiding their -working parties during the armistice. - -June 11th. We had many men killed and wounded during the night in our -new positions, into which the Russians kept firing grape and canister -from the batteries which flank the rear of the Redan. - -News had reached the camp that Miss Nightingale has quite recovered from -her serious illness, and that she has embarked on board Lord Ward's -steam yacht for Scutari. We all pray and trust that she may so improve -in health and strength as to enable her to come amongst our wounded men -once more at Balaklava hospital; for her presence there is worth all the -doctors' medicine. God bless her, prays an honest Roman Catholic. This -morning I received, from my wife in England, a letter which conveyed to -me the sad intelligence that my youngest child, Elizabeth, had died on -the 30th of last April. - - -[Illustration] - - - - -[Illustration] - -CHAPTER XX. - - BOMBARDMENT—THE ASSAULT—GREAT REDAN—THE BATTLE—BALAKLAVA— - HOSPITAL—MISS NIGHTINGALE—NURSES—PROMOTED—DISCHARGED FROM - HOSPITAL—DEATH OF LORD RAGLAN. - - -After the contest for the rifle pits and Mamelon, on the 8th and 9th, a -temporary lull took place in the siege operations, which was necessary, -in order to make preparations for a yet more formidable assault on the -Malakoff and Redan, of which the Mamelon and Quarries were mere advanced -works. Therefore, on the morning of the 17th of June, 1855, the -batteries of the allied armies before Sebastopol opened fire from the -whole line of trenches, from left to right. The tremendous roar of big -guns and mortars was terrible. What a pity that this bombardment had not -been kept up until the general assault took place next morning, which -Lord Raglan had intended; but in order to suit the wishes of General -Pellisier, it was most unfortunate that his Lordship was induced to -abandon his intention, instead of which the Russians were allowed to -strengthen their batteries and reinforce them with troops owing to the -lull in the firing. By the time the assault was made, they were well -prepared to meet us. - -June 18th. At 2 o'clock in the morning, the 4th division, under General -Wyndham and Sir John Campbell, consisting of the 17th, 20th, 21st, 57th -and 63rd Regiments, were marched down to the twenty-one gun battery; -thence by files through zigzags to the Quarries, under a galling fire of -shot and shell from the Redan, the 17th Regiment leading. As we reached -the Quarries, the men got packed closely together in such a small space; -and the Russians, having the exact range threw the shell right amongst -our men, tearing them to pieces, throwing their legs and arms high in -the air, as we stood there a target for the Russians waiting for the two -rockets which was the signal from the French, when they got into the -Malakoff. A shell struck Sergeant Connell of the Grenadier Company, -tearing him to shreds, and throwing one of his legs fifty yards off, -which was found afterwards and known by the regimental number on the -sock. That leg was all of him that could ever be seen afterwards. Paddy -Belton, the third man from me, got struck with a shell and torn to -pieces, and several others. We had much better have tried to get into -the Redan, than to stand there in suspense, a target for shell and shot. -The sailors and 20th Regiment were told off to carry scaling ladders and -wool packs; the latter were placed on the field, as cover for the -riflemen, who were told off to cover the advance of the storming party, -firing at the Russian gunners, through the embrasures. As the ladder -party advanced toward the ditch of the Redan, a storm of grape, -canister, rifle bullets and pieces of old nails and iron, was discharged -from the big guns of the Redan, besides a cross fire from the curtains -of the little Redan and Malakoff, causing great slaughter to the small -party of sailors and 20th Regiment. I saw one of the ladder carriers -knocked down from one end with a shot, when the weight of the ladder -devolved on the other man who dragged it along the best way he could, -till he was also knocked over. After hard tugging several had got as far -as the abatis, where they had another delay; for during the night the -Russians had repaired and strengthened it. This obstructed the advance -of the ladder party, who used the greatest exertions to remove that -barrier; all who were not shot worked through and deposited their -ladders in the ditch of the Redan. Of those who fell, their ladders lay -on the ground between the Quarries and Redan. The ladders were barely -deposited in the ditch, when Lord Raglan gave the order for the advance -of the storming parties, which consisted of the 17th, 21st, 57th and -63rd Regiments. This small party, led by Sir John Campbell, were to -attack the left side of that immense and formidable stronghold, the -great Redan. - -The light division, led by the gallant Colonel Yea, consisted of the -7th, 23rd, 33rd, 34th, 77th and 88th Regiments, the right side, and the -2nd division the centre or apex. On the signal being given, Captain John -Croker sang out at the top of his voice, "Grenadiers of the 17th, -advance," when the company bounded over the parapet, like one man, led -by their captain, followed by the other companies. When the Russians saw -us advancing, they opened such a terrific fire of grape, canister and -musketry, that it was almost impossible for any man to escape being hit. -As we advanced up to the abatis, Sir John Campbell was shot, also my -noble captain, John Croker, who was struck with a grape shot in the -head, and fell. - - -LINES ON THE DEATH OF SIR JOHN CAMPBELL AND CAPTAIN JOHN CROKER. - -_Who fell leading the assault on the Great Redan, June 18th, 1855._ - - Ye Grenadiers! who fear no foe and scoff at death, - Full well I know that, to your dying breath, - You'll fight like warriors, or like heroes fall, - So now obey your Queen and country's call. - - To crush those Russians with relentless hand, - And scale their ramparts like a gallant band, - Let John Campbell's orders be our guide, - We'll fight and conquer by that hero's side. - - Nor will we humble at the Russian bear; - While God is with us we need never fear; - Grasp tight your swords for victory's glorious crown, - And share with none those deeds of high renown. - - The warriors brave around John Croker stood, - Within the Quarries ready for to shed their blood, - While Captain Croker on the signal given, - Cries, "Grenadiers, advance! and trust your fate to heaven." - - Stung with desire, they raised the battle-cry, - And rushed well forward to win the fight, or die; - Our captain waved high his sword, and then - Onward he dashed, followed by all his gallant men. - - Who with one loud hurrah, the silence broke, - And charged like Britons through the fire and smoke; - A moment more and then the bloody struggle came, - With roar of cannon and with flash and flame. - - While piled in ghastly heaps the brave soldiers lay, - Filling the trenches with their dead that day, - John Croker's voice was heard above the battle din, - Leading his company through death and slaughter then. - - Until at last the fatal bullet riven, - Laid our hero low and sent his soul to heaven; - Deep was the grief and sorrow at his loss we bore, - As that noble chieftain lay weltering in his gore. - - While round his ghastly corpse we bravely tried - To quell the sweeping torrent of the rushing tide - That rushed upon us with such resistless fire, - And levelled our heroes in heaps, there to expire. - - But few escaped of the forlorn band, - Of that chivalric company Croker did command; - But those who did, stuck by their leader still, - And laid his corpse to rest on Cathcart's Hill. - - T. FAUGHNAN. - - -At this time, if the commander had supported us, we would have taken the -Redan; but the few men who were sent out were shot down. Scarcely a man -advanced as far as the Redan but got either killed or wounded. I got -shot through the right arm, fracturing the bone. As I was coming back, -covered with blood, for the wound was severe, I saw a man named John -Dwyer, who got struck with a grape shot in the thigh. He said to me, -"Oh, Faughnan, I am kilt entirely." He had scarcely spoken, when a round -shot struck him again and put an end to his sufferings. I was conducted -to the ravine, at the Woronzoff road, by a drummer, where the doctors -and hospital orderlies were in their shirt-sleeves, hard at work, -amputating legs and arms, and binding up wounds; it was fearful to see -all the legs and arms lying around. After the doctor stopped the blood -with a patent bandage, he dressed my wound, and sent me to hospital on -an ambulance waggon with twelve other wounded men. During the assault on -the Redan and Malakoff, the third division, under General Eyre, -consisting of the 9th, 18th, 28th, 38th, and 44th Regiments, with a -company of picked marksmen, under Major Felden, of the 44th Regiment, -were pushed forward to feel the way, and cover the advance. At the -signal for the general assault, the 18th Royal Irish, being the storming -party, rushed at the cemetery, and got possession, dislodging the -Russians with a small loss; but the moment the Russians retired, the -batteries opened a heavy fire on them, from the Barrack and Garden -batteries. - -The 18th at once rushed out of the cemetery towards the town, and -succeeded in getting into some houses; Captain Hayman was gallantly -leading his company when he was shot. Once in the houses, they prepared -to defend themselves. Meantime the enemy did their utmost to blow down -the houses with shot, shell, grape and canister, but the men kept close, -though they lost many men. They entered these houses about six o'clock -in the morning, and could not leave them until eight o'clock in the -evening. The enemy at last blew up many of the houses, and set fire to -others. When our men rushed out of them the fire was now spreading all -over. The 9th also effected a lodgment in some houses, and held their -possession as well as the 18th. Why were these men not supported by -large bodies of troops, so as to take the enemy on the flank, and round -behind the Redan? Whose fault was it? Not the men's! Whose fault was it -that the Redan was not breeched by round shot, and the abatis swept away -before the assault was made? Not the men's. Whose fault was it that -large supports were not pushed forward to the Redan, on the assault -being made? Not the men's. Nothing can be compared to the bravery, -daring and courage of the officers and soldiers of the British army, -when they are brought properly into action; but when a handful of men -are sent to take a stronghold like the Redan, armed as it was with all -sorts of destructive missiles, and manned by an immense force, it could -not be expected that men could do impossibilities. An armistice to bury -the dead was granted by the Russians, and at 4 o'clock in the afternoon -of the 19th, white flags were hoisted on the Redan and Malakoff, and in -an instant afterwards burying parties of the French and English emerged -from the trenches and commenced to carry off their dead and bury them in -rear of the trenches, all in one grave, and in their clothes as they -lay, except the officers who were taken to camp, and buried at -Cathcart's Hill. Many wounded men were found close to the abatis, who -were lying there thirty-six hours in their blood-stained clothes, in the -scorching sun, without a drop of water to quench their thirst. Several -had crawled away during the night, and hundreds had died of their wounds -as they lay. After the burial was over, the white flags were lowered and -firing commenced again once more. As the ambulance waggons moved along -the Woronzoff road towards the hospitals, I could not help regretting -our loss in officers and men, more especially Captain John Croker. He -was a very strict officer, but a very kind gentleman; that is, he -expected every man to do his duty faithfully and zealously, and beyond -that, he was indulgent, generous, and always anxious for the comfort, -happiness, and amusement of his company. A better, braver, or more -dignified and gentlemanly officer, a kinder friend than Captain John -Croker was not in the service, nor one more precise, more exacting, more -awake to the slightest professional neglect of duty and his loss to the -grenadier company, I am sure, will be deeply and sorely felt; he was a -native of the County Limerick. On arrival at the hospital the doctor -examined my wound, and found that the bone was fractured. He then set -it, after taking out three splinters, dressed it, put it in a splint, -gave me a glass of brandy, and put me to bed. The hospital was getting -so crowded I was one of a party of wounded men who were sent down to -Balaklava hospital on mules, next day at ten o'clock. The number sent -down from the division was two hundred; each mule carried two patients; -we sat back to back. On arrival at Balaklava hospital, we were told off -to comfortable huts, each containing beds or cots. The wounded men were -separate from the others; those very severely wounded were put to bed, -and at dinner time one of Miss Nightingale's ladies came round, and -spoke kindly to us, and examined our wounds, which we appreciated very -much; and at tea time the same lady brought us arrowroot and port wine. -Next morning the doctor dressed our wounds, and the lady brought us all -sorts of delicacies. How different to the camp rations of salt junk and -hard tack; and now we had a real lady to nurse us and attend to our -wants. I thought that it was worth getting wounded to have such -attendance. Nothing could surpass the kindness and attention which these -ladies showed the wounded men; each of them has a certain number of -patients under her care; and truly their kindness and unremitting -exertions did more good to alleviate the pain and suffering of the -wounded men than all the doctor's medicine. The weather was so very hot -that my arm began to swell, so that the doctor got alarmed and consulted -another doctor, when they decided to amputate my arm. I did not like the -idea of losing my arm, but the doctors thought the swelling would get -into my body; so when the nurse came round with the arrowroot in the -evening, after she had washed and dressed my wound, she advised me not -to have my arm taken off, but go down to a spring that gushed from a -rock at the foot of the hill and there hold the wound under the stream -as long as I could bear it, every day. I did as she told me. I then told -the doctor that I would not have my arm taken off. I sat at the spring -all day, except at meal times, and held my arm under the cold water that -rushed out of the rock, and at the end of a week the swelling reduced. -From that time it began to get better; I was in good health and was -allowed to walk round the hills during the day. The head surgeon, Dr. -Jephson, allowed us every privilege, and our nurse brought us note -paper, envelopes and postage stamps, so that we could write home to our -friends. The invalids were allowed to roam round the rocks all day -between meal times. The hospital, which has been recently established, -affords great comfort to our sick and wounded men, who will be saved the -evils of a sea voyage to Scutari. It already presents the appearance of -a little village with small patches of gardens in front of the huts; and -its position on those heights, among the rocks, overhanging the sea and -steep crags, which wind up past the old Genoese tower that stands at the -entrance of Balaklava harbour, to the height of our camp over the sea, -is strikingly picturesque. The judicious surgical treatment of my arm, -and the careful manner in which the doctor's directions were carried out -by our nurse, together with holding it under the stream of cold spring -water, soon restored it to use again; several other men whose wounds -were very severe were fast improving under this lady's care. Her -assiduity and skill as a nurse, as well as the gentle kindness of her -manner, fully warranted the greatest respect from her patients, who -almost idolized her, whose presence in the hut stilled the pain of the -wounded men. We often wondered whether she ever slept, as she seemed to -be always attending one or another of her charge. Miss Nightingale had -left Balaklava for Scutari a few days ago, so I had not the -gratification of seeing that heroic lady, whose honoured name is often -mentioned among the soldiers of the British Army with the most profound -respect—that high born lady Florence Nightingale, the sick and wounded -soldier's friend, whose name will be handed down to future generations, -as the greatest heroine of her sex, who left her happy home with all the -genial associations, comforts and social attractions which her birth, -education and accomplishments so well enable her to appreciate; going -out to a country wherein every turn spoke of war and slaughter; taking -up her abode in an hospital containing none of her own sex save those -noble ladies who accompanied her as nurses; watching and tending the -sick from morning till night, among hundreds of wounded, sick, emaciated -and hungry soldiers. All these things considered, there has indeed -rarely, if ever, been such an example of heroic daring combined with -feminine gentleness. Although there is a heroism in charging the enemy -on the heights of Inkerman, in defiance of death and all mortal -opposition, worthy of all praise and honour, yet the quiet sympathy, the -largeness of her religious heart, and her wondrous powers of -consolation, will ever be remembered with the love, thankfulness and -affection of the soldiers of the British Army, and by no one more than -T. Faughnan. - - -LINES TO MISS FLORENCE NIGHTINGALE. - - At the Crimean war thy life was new; - You left your home, and country too, - To tend the wounded with hand so fair, - To Balaklava hospital you did repair. - - Miss Florence Nightingale, for you is given - The soldier's prayer to God in Heaven, - That you may soar to Him above, - For your right noble valour and Christian love. - - If Angels are here on earth below, - You must be one of them we know; - For flesh and blood can not compare, - Such genuine valour and angelic care. - - As you displayed, without one thought - Of the sleepless nights on you it brought; - May God His blessings on you descend, - Is a soldier's prayer whom you did befriend. - - When you this earthly race have run, - May Angels lead you to the Son, - There to sing with Christ for evermore, - Whom here, on earth, you ever did adore. - - T. FAUGHNAN. - - -After it was ascertained at the regiment that I was not killed, as was -reported, but only wounded, and in hospital at Balaklava, the commanding -officer had me promoted to full corporal, and my promotion dated back -from the first of April previous, which left me three months' back pay -to draw. This news reached me a few days before I was discharged from -hospital. On the 20th of August, I was discharged from hospital, and -once more proceeded to join my regiment in camp. After thanking the -Sisters for all their kindness and attention to me while under their -charge, I bid them all good-bye, and started for the front with six -others. - -On arrival at camp, the first I met was Major Gordon, who was very glad -to see me. He said to me, "Faughnan, we all thought you were killed that -morning. I am sorry I did not know that you were only wounded before I -sent off the returns; I would have recommended you for the Victoria -Cross—but it cannot be helped now, as I have recommended Corporal John -Smith for it." I thanked him very kindly, and joined my company, who -were all well pleased to see me. - -There is a sad feeling among the officers and soldiers in camp, and deep -regret evinced, at the loss of Lord Raglan, who departed this life at -nine o'clock, p.m., the 28th June, 1855. His death appears to have at -once stilled every feeling but that of respect for his memory; and the -remembrance of the many long years he faithfully and untiringly served -his country; and his frequent cheering visits among the men in camp, had -endeared him to the army now before Sebastopol. A military procession -was formed at four o'clock in the afternoon of the 3rd of July to escort -the body to Kazatch Bay. As many as could be spared from duty in the -trenches and, with safety to the camp, from every infantry regiment, -formed an avenue from the British to the French headquarters, and from -thence to Kazatch Bay, where the "Caradoc" was ready to receive her -melancholy freight. The French troops formed a similar avenue. The -cavalry and batteries of artillery were formed up behind the lines of -infantry, and bands were stationed at intervals, and played the Dead -March as the procession moved slowly along the route marked out by the -lines of infantry. The coffin was carried on a gun carriage—the -soldier's hearse. At each side rode the four commanders of the allied -armies; then followed all the generals and officers who could be spared -from trench duty. As the solemn procession moved along, minute guns were -fired by the field artillery of the French. At Kazatch Bay, marines and -sailors were formed up on the wharf; the naval officers were in -attendance; and the body of Lord Raglan was placed on board of Her -Majesty's Ship "Caradoc," and removed from that battle-field where both -his body and mind had suffered for the last nine months, and where many -hundreds of gallant officers lie, in their gore and glory, waiting for -the sound of the last trumpet. - - -[Illustration] - - - - -[Illustration] - -CHAPTER XXI. - - CAPTAIN COLTHURST—SIEGE—BOMBARDMENT—ASSAULT—REDAN—THE BATTLE— - 8TH SEPTEMBER—THE EVACUATION—RUSSIANS—BRITISH IN SEBASTOPOL. - - -August 25th. Captain Colthurst arrived at camp with a draft of three -hundred men, who were posted to the different companies, to fill up the -vacancies left by those who fell in battle, or died in hospital, or -camp, during the winter. During the month of July and August our loss in -the trenches was very heavy, although the achievements were not such as -brought great fame and honour to the hard-working army. The outworks had -approached so near the Russian batteries that our trenches afforded very -insufficient shelter from shot, shell, and rifle-bullets which killed -and wounded so many of our working parties, swelling the list of dead -and wounded very much every twenty four hours. Every thing was now -reported ready by the engineers and artillery officers for one last and -desperate assault on the fortifications. - -The labour bestowed by the Russians to strengthen the Redan and Malakoff -was almost inconceivable—a formidable abatis of sharpened stakes in -front, a parapet thirty feet high, ditch twenty feet deep by twenty-four -feet wide, with three tiers of heavy guns and mortars rising one above -another. Such was the Malakoff and Redan. The plan of assault was, a -vigorous fire to open on the enemy's batteries, by the Allies, on the -5th, 6th and 7th; followed on the 8th of September, 1855, by a storming -of the Malakoff by the French, and of the Redan by the British. Generals -Pellisier and Simpson arranged that at dawn, on the 8th, the French -storming columns were to leave the trenches, the British to storm the -Redan; the tricolour flag planted on the Malakoff was to be the signal -that the French had triumphed, and the British were then to storm the -Redan, for unless the Malakoff was captured first, the Redan could not -be held, as the former was the key of the position, therefore the -Malakoff should be attacked first, and with a very strong force. - -Appalling in its severity was the final bombardment of Sebastopol. It -began at day-break, as previously arranged by the commanders, the shot -and shell shaking the very ground with the tremendous reverberation, -raising clouds of earth and overturning batteries along the Russian -lines, filling the air with vivid gleams and sparks and trains of fire, -burying the horizon in dense clouds of smoke and vapour, and carrying -death and destruction into the heart of, and all over the city. After -three hours of this tremendous fire, the gunners ceased for a while to -cool their guns and rest themselves; then resumed with such effect that -the Russian earth-works became awfully cut up, without, however, -exhibiting any actual gaps or breaches, which would have befallen stone -batteries, under such a storm of shot and shell; proving the defensive -power of earth-works. Darkness did not stay this devastation; shell and -shot continued to whistle through the air, marking out a line of light -to show their flight, and crashing and bursting against the defences and -buildings. The Malakoff and Redan, when no longer visible in daylight, -were brought out into vivid relief by the bursting of shells and the -flashes of guns. One of the ships in the harbour caught fire from a -shell, and was burnt to the water's edge. All through the night the fire -continued, which prevented the Russians from repairing their parapets -and embrasures, and with dawn on the 6th, the roar of cannon was only -interrupted by a few intervals to cool the guns. The enemy, seeing that -the hour of peril had arrived, used almost superhuman exertions to work -their batteries; increased agitation was visible among them, and several -movements seemed to indicate the removal from the south to the north -side of the harbour of all such persons and valuables as would not be -required to render assistance in the defence. Again did a night of -intermittent fire ensue. On the 7th, another ship was burnt in the -harbour by our shells; flames broke out in the town, and a loud -explosion like that of a magazine took place in the evening. - - -THE NIGHT BEFORE THE BATTLE, 8TH SEPT., 1855. - - To-morrow, comrade, we - At the Great Redan must be, - There to conquer, or both lie low - The morning star is up, - But there's wine still in the cup, - And we'll take another tot, ere we go, boys, go, - And we'll take another tot, ere we go. - - 'Tis true, in warriors' eyes - Sometimes a tear will rise, - When we think of our friends left at home; - But what can wailing do, - Sure our goblet's weeping too! - With its tears we'll chase away our own, boys, our own, - With its tears we'll chase away our own. - - The morning may be bright; - But this may be the last night - That we shall ever pass together; - The next night where shall we - And our gallant comrades be? - But—no matter—grasp thy sword and away, boy, away, - No matter—grasp thy sword, and away! - - Let those who brook the lot - Of the Russian great despot, - Like cowards at home they may stay; - Cheers for our Queen be given, - While our souls we trust to heaven, - Then for Britain and our Queen, boys, hurra! hurra! hurra! - Then, for Britain and our Queen, boys, hurra! - - THOS. FAUGHNAN. - - -On the morning of the 8th, a destructive and pitiless storm of shot and -shell continued until noon, when the fire of our batteries ceased, and -the storming columns of the French issued forth, preceded by riflemen -and sappers and miners. The French had bridges as substitutes for -ladders; the ditch was crossed by the bridges, and the parapet scaled -with surprising celerity. Then commenced the struggle, with guns, -rifles, pistols, swords, bayonets, and gun-rammers; but in a quarter of -an hour the tricolour flag floated on the Malakoff, announcing that the -formidable position was taken. - -Although the French had captured it, the Russians so well knew its -value, it being the key to the whole position, that they made furious -attempts at re-capture. But the French General judiciously sent powerful -reserves to the support of McMahon, and these reserves maintained a -series of desperate battles against the Russians within the Malakoff, -bayonet against bayonet, musket against musket, man against man. The -contest continued for several hours; but the French triumphed, and drove -the Russians from their stronghold. - -Anything more wildly disorderly than the interior of the Malakoff can -hardly be imagined. The earth had been torn up by the explosion of -shells, and every foot of the ground became a frightful scene of bloody -struggles; thousands of dead and wounded men being heaped up within this -one fort alone. As soon as the tricolour was seen floating on the -Malakoff, two rockets gave the signal for the British columns to storm -the Redan. Out rushed the storming party, preceded by the ladder and -covering party, a mere handful altogether; indeed it appears astonishing -that so few should have been told off for so great a work; every soldier -had a perilous duty assigned him. The riflemen were to cover the advance -of the ladder party, by shooting down the gunners at the embrasures of -the Redan; the ladder party to place the ladders in the ditch. As soon -as the storming party rushed from the Quarries, the guns of the Redan -opened a fierce fire on them, sweeping them down as they advanced. Col. -Unett, of the 19th Regiment, was one of the first officers that fell, -and Brigadiers Von Straubenzie and Shirley were both wounded, and -scarcely an officer who advanced with the storming party but got either -killed or wounded. The distance from the Redan to the Quarries was too -great, being over two hundred yards, which gave the enemy a good -opportunity to mow the storming party down with a tremendous fire of -grape, canister and musketry. The survivors advanced and reached the -abatis, the pointed stakes of which, standing outward presented a -formidable obstacle to further progress; however the men made gaps -through which they crawled. Then came another rush to the ditch, when -the ladders were found to be too short. However, our men scrambled down, -and climbed up, many falling all the time under the shot of the enemy. -Officers and men were emulous for the honour of being among the first to -enter this formidable battery; but alas too weak, in the numbers -necessary for such an enterprise. Mounting to the parapet, the beseigers -saw the interior of the Redan before them filled with masses of soldiers -and powerful ranges of guns and mortars; wild and bloody was the scene -within the assailed fort. Colonel Wyndham (afterwards Sir Charles) was -the first officer to enter; and when fairly within the parapet, he and -the other officers and men did all they could to dislodge the Russians -from behind the traverse and breast works; but the Russians overpowered -our handful of men that were sent to take this stronghold, for we had no -support to back up those that got a footing in the Redan. The Russians -continued bringing up reinforcements and soon overpowered the few -British, who saw they must either retire or remain to be shot down. New -supporting parties kept arriving in such driblets and in such confusion -as to render impossible any well directed charge against the place. If, -for a time a few men were collected in a body, volleys of musketry, -grape, canister, and old pieces of iron of every description, fired from -their big guns, levelled our men to the dust. The officers and men at -last seeing no supports coming to their aid, lost heart and retreated to -their trenches. - -The embrasures of the parapets, the ditch, and all round the abatis -became a harrowing scene of death and wounds; heaps of dead and wounded -lay all round the Redan, and piles of them lay at the bottom of the -ditch, where they fell by the Russian shot, as they climbed up the -scaling ladders. At two o'clock the attack was over, and in these two -hours the British loss was very severe. No other day throughout the war -recorded so many killed and wounded which amounted to the large number -of 2450 in all. The French loss was three times more severe it comprised -no less than 7550 killed and wounded. - -Next day another attack was to be made on the Redan. Sir Colin Campbell -sent down a party cautiously in the night to see how the Redan was -occupied; it was found to be vacated, telling plainly of the -abandonment, by the Russians, of the south side of the town. It appears -that Gortchakoff, when the impossibility of maintaining his position -became evident, commenced blowing up the public buildings of the town; -the gunners, during the early hours of the night, kept up a sufficient -fire to mask their proceedings in the stillness of the night when the -allied camps were filled with men, either sleeping or thinking anxiously -of the scenes which day-light might bring forth. Lurid flames began to -rise in Sebastopol; explosions of great violence shook the earth, and -intense commotion was visible to the men in the trenches. The fires -began in various parts of the town, and tremendous explosions behind the -Redan tore up the ground for a great distance; and other explosions -succeeded so rapidly that a thick, murky mass of smoke and flames from -burning buildings, imparted an awful grandeur to the scene. Now came a -resistless outburst which blew up the Flagstaff battery; then another -blew up the Garden battery. As day-light approached, Fort Paul, Fort -Nicholas Central, and Quarantine Bastion, were seen surrounded by -flames. We could not withhold our admiration of the manner in which -Gortchakoff carried out his desperate plan, the last available means of -saving the rest of the garrison. - -On the morning of the 9th September, when the troops in camp heard the -announcement that the mighty city had fallen, the city which, during -twelve months, had, day by day, been looked at and studied by our -generals and engineers, and in front of which 10,000 of our troops had -been killed or wounded on the preceding day,—with difficulty was the -announcement credited, so accustomed had all been to the dashing of -their hopes, and the non-fulfilment of their predictions. I was one -among many who hastened into the town and was astonished at the enormous -extent of the batteries, and the manner in which our shot and shell had -knocked down and torn up the massive buildings. The French soldiers -rushed into the town, peered about the burning houses, and plundered -them of chairs, tables, looking-glasses, and countless articles, and -carried them up to their camp. The French soldiers always keep a bright -look-out for plunder. I must say that our men did not touch a single -article, that I ever heard of, except one man, who found a lot of money -in a bank. He emptied it into his haversack, and left at once. The bank -clerks in their excitement and hurry must have forgotten to take the -money in their haste to get out of the city. We had a chain of cavalry -all round the town, to keep back stragglers, and stop any person from -taking anything out of the town. Thus ended the wondrous Siege of -Sebastopol. On the 8th of September, when the allied commanders found -that the Russian garrison, together with inhabitants had crossed to the -north side of the harbour it became their duty to ascertain whether any -traps or explosive mines had been laid by the enemy, before our troops -could be allowed to occupy the town, to ward off camp followers, and to -divide the spoils of the garrison between the two invading armies; and -to take measures for the destruction of the forts and docks. - -The appearance of the town, at the time that we entered it, was fearful -indeed. Destructive forces had been raging with a violence never before -equalled in the history of sieges; and the whole internal area was one -vast heap of crumbled earth-work, shattered masonry, shot-pierced -buildings, torn-up streets, scorched timbers, broken guns and muskets, -and shattered vehicles. The buildings were shattered into forms truly -fantastic; some of the lower stories almost shot away and barely able to -support the superstructure; some with enormous gaps in the walls. Proofs -were manifold that the Russians intended to defend the town street by -street, had we forced an entrance for across every street were -constructed barricades defended by field pieces. In some of the best -houses columns were broken by shot, ceilings falling, which these -columns had once supported; elegant furniture crushed beneath broken -cornices, beams, and fragments of broken looking-glasses, mingled with -the dust on the marble floors. The effect of our 13-inch shells had been -extraordinary. These dread missiles, of which so many thousand had been -thrown into the town, weigh 200 pounds each, and falling from a great -height, have the weight of over sixty tons descending deep below the -foundation of the houses, and when they explode, scattering everything -around far and wide. Our army still continued to encamp outside the -town, sending only as many troops as would suffice to guard it, and take -up the principal buildings among the ruins for guard-houses. Now we have -plenty of wood, each company sending a fatigue party daily from the camp -to Sebastopol for it. These parties could be seen by the Russians from -the north side pulling down the houses for the wood, and carrying it to -camp. While doing so the Russians invariably fire upon us, from the -north side of the harbour, where they have thrown up very strong forts, -armed with the heaviest guns. They have placed some of those guns with -the breach sunk into the ground, in order to get elevation, and throw -shot right into our camp amongst our tents, not unfrequently killing and -wounding our men. - -We have now regular guards and sentries all over Sebastopol. After -posting a sentry one day, I happened to go down some steps which led to -the basement of a large building, and there I found to my horror fifteen -dead Russians. My sense of smell first detected them in the dark vault; -they were in the worst state of putrefaction. It was found on removing -them that they had all been wounded, and had crawled in there and died -from their wounds. We buried them where thousands of their comrades were -buried, in rear of the Redan. The army is now quiet—no firing except an -odd shot from the Russians at our fatigue parties in Sebastopol. We have -no trench duty to perform—nothing but the regular camp guards; we have -plenty of fuel and good rations; any amount of canteens on the ground, -so we are making up now in comfort for the hard times we had last -winter. The army was now at a stand-still, having nothing to occupy -their time. - -But the commanders began to look forward to a second wintering in the -Crimea as a probability. Invaluable as the railway had become, it was -inadequate to the conveyance of the immense bulk and weight of supplies -required day by day in the army, and hence it is necessary to do that -which, if done in the early part of last winter, would have saved so -many valuable lives—to construct a new road from Balaklava to the camp. -Therefore the road was laid out and large numbers of our men worked on -it daily; but making roads is only child's play compared with making -trenches under shot, shell, grape and canister. The whole of the -divisions were kept continually at road-making; the road promises to be -a splendid one, and we were all anxious to make it. We had no less than -10,000 men working on this road, between Balaklava and the front. By the -end of October a most excellent road was constructed, including branch -roads to the several divisions. The French at the same time constructed -a road across the valley which connects their camp with the main road to -Kamiesch; and besides they have improved the old Tartar roads. - -Our army suffered much last winter from the want of roads. This -excellent road which the British army has constructed, will ever remain -as a memento of British occupation. During the three weeks of September -which followed the evacuation of the south side of Sebastopol the -Russians were quietly but actively strengthening their fortifications on -the north side, making all the heights bristle with guns, and firing a -shot whenever an opportunity offered to work mischief upon our guards, -sentries, and fatigue-parties in the town. We had planted a few guns in -position so as to bear on the northern heights; but no disposition was -shown to open a regular fire on them, except an odd shot to remind them -that we were ready for them at any time. - -Camp rumours arose concerning some supposed expedition into the interior -of the Crimea, but the securing of the captured city was regarded as the -first duty. - -On the 20th September, 1855, the anniversary of the battle of the Alma, -a distribution of the medals for the Crimea, and clasps for Alma, -Balaklava and Inkerman, took place among the troops; these decorations -were very much appreciated by the officers and men. The day was -commemorated with much festivity and amusement in both camps. - - -[Illustration] - - - - -[Illustration] - -CHAPTER XXII. - - EXPEDITION TO KINBURN—THE VOYAGE—ODESSA—LANDING—CUTTING - TRENCHES—BOMBARDMENT—THE WHITE FLAG—CAPITULATION—THE - PRISONERS—RECONNAISSANCE—THE MARCH—VILLAGE—BIVOUAC—MARCH— - A VILLAGE—PIGS AND GEESE—DEPARTURE—THE FLEET—RETURN— - SIR W. CODRINGTON—RUSSIAN SPY. - - -An expedition to Kinburn having been decided upon by the allies, on the -6th of October a squadron of H. M. fleet were in readiness at Kamiesch -Bay to convey the 17th, 20th, 21st, 57th, and 63rd Regiments, together -with marines, artillery and engineers under the command of General -Spencer. As we marched to Kamiesch Bay the morning was close and sultry. -When we got a third of the way private Hanratty fell out of the ranks -and reported himself sick, when Captain Smith calls out, "Corporal -Faughnan, take Hanratty back to hospital." "Yes, sir," says I, we were -then marching down a very steep hill. I marched back to the hospital, -although I was badly able, for I was bad with dysentery myself at the -time, and for upwards of two weeks previously, and was so weak that I -could scarcely march; but I did not wish to give in and be left behind. -After I gave over the sick man, I saw the regiment a long way off in the -valley. I marched as fast as I was able with a full kit. In the -afternoon rain commenced to drizzle, and the regiment halted to cloak. I -then gained on them and soon overtook them. When we halted at the beach -I could have fallen down from weakness and exhaustion, but I kept up my -pluck and never gave in. The troops were embarked on board the fleet by -small steam-tenders; the 17th Regiment had the honour of being conveyed -to Kinburn by the flag-ship "Royal Albert." - -On the 7th October, the troops having been on board, and everything -ready, we set sail, accompanied by several line-of-battle ships, small -steamers, gun-boats, mortar-vessels, and three French floating -batteries, constituting an armament of great magnitude. The English -squadron comprised six steam line-of-battle ships, seventeen steam -frigates, ten gun-boats, six mortar vessels, three steam tenders and ten -transports. The Russians north of Sebastopol were in wild excitement -when this large squadron appeared; but the ships soon disappeared from -the Crimea. - -The admirals signalled to the several captains to rendezvous off Odessa. -As we got out to sea the band discoursed music while the officers were -at dinner; before dinner they played as usual the "Roast Beef of Old -England," which we had not heard for many months before. - -We had no hammocks, so we were obliged to lie all round the decks in -groups during the night. At eight o'clock next morning we cast anchor -off Odessa, three miles from the town. It was then the turn for the -citizens to be alarmed by this display of force. - -The Russians on the heights, in barrack square and all round the city -became incessantly active in making observations. We could see the old -fashioned telegraph on the towers along the coast working, and clouds of -Cossacks, infantry and artillery, formed up along the cliffs, ready to -defend the place if attacked. All day on the 9th the fleet remained at -anchor, about 80 French and English vessels forming a line six miles in -length, eagerly watched from the cliffs by large masses of troops. The -rocket-boats, gun-boats, mortar-vessels, and floating batteries might -have gone nearer and crumbled the city to ruins; but such was not our -orders, and not a shot was fired, and thus was Odessa spared for the -third time during the war. - -The object of the admirals in making this feint on Odessa, was to draw -the Russian troops away from Kinburn, thereby reducing the number of -troops in that garrison. - -The 10th and 11th we were still at anchor, dense fogs giving the seamen -a foretaste of the dangers of that coast; and as the 12th and 13th were -very stormy, the admirals would not risk leaving until the weather -moderated; thus it happened that the citizens had the threatening fleet -in view for six days. The squadrons weighed anchor on the morning of the -14th, and cast anchor off Kinburn that afternoon; in the evening some of -the French and English gun-boats entered the estuary of the Dneiper, -passing the Fort of Kinburn under a heavy fire from the enemy. - -On the morning of the 15th the troops were landed along the beach out of -range of the fort, by the launches of the ships, each being filled with -soldiers, and made fast to each other by means of the painter. After the -troops were all got into the launches, they formed several long lines of -red coats in little boats—each boat was steered by a naval officer. - -The front boat of the line being made fast to a small steamer, the whole -were then towed in front of the beach where we were to land. As the -steamer ran in towards the shore, she cast off the line of boats, and -while they were under way each let go the painter, and headed towards -the beach running in close on a sandy bottom, when the troops jumped -ashore and deployed from where we landed to the River Dneiper, while the -gun-boats went up the river. By this double manœuvre the Russians were -prevented from receiving reinforcements by sea, while the garrison were -cut off by land. In the evening the mortar vessels began to try their -range on the forts. - -The troops brought no tents, and only three days' rations. After posting -outlying pickets, we were set to work cutting a trench from the sea -where we landed to the river Dneiper, a distance of five miles. While we -were digging the trench during the day, the outlying pickets had a -skirmish with a small force of Cossacks; but the chief labour was the -landing of stores and artillery, tedious and dangerous work over the -rough surf, occasioning the swamping of some of the boats. A camp was -formed, but without tents. At two o'clock in the morning we had the -trench cut and manned ready to receive the Russian reinforcements for -the garrison, which were expected from Odessa, but which did not come. -However, a large force of Cossacks came along at three o'clock in the -morning, when we opened a heavy fire upon them from our new trench, -forcing them to retire quicker than they came, we then kept a good -look-out till morning. Generals Spencer and Bazaine made a cavalry -_reconnaissance_ at day-break, when the Cossacks retired altogether. - -About four companies of the French and English marksmen were placed -under cover at a distance of four hundred yards in rear of the fort, and -kept up a fusilade on the Russian gunners; while at the same time the -artillery opened a strong fire on the fort; at nine o'clock the ships -opened fire on the garrison. - -The "Royal Albert," "Algiers," "Agamemnon," and "Princess Royal," and -four ships of the line, approached abreast of the principal fort; the -"Tribune" and "Sphinx" attacked the earth-work battery. The "Hannibal," -"Dauntless," and "Terrible," took position opposite the battery near the -end of the fort, while the smaller vessels directed their attack on the -east and centre of the fort. Thus the Russians, from the shape and -position of the fort, were attacked on all sides at once. Each ship -poured its broadside upon the port and the strand batteries as it -passed, and received the enemy's fire in return. From nine o'clock until -noon these powerful vessels maintained their terrible fire against the -forts, crashing the parapets and disabling the guns, while the mortar -vessels set fire to the buildings within the fort. The "Arrow" and -"Lynx," with others, were exposed to much danger. Having taken up a -position close to the batteries to discharge their shell upon the fort, -they received in return an iron torrent which tried the resolution of -the crew. - -At twelve o'clock the Russians hoisted a white flag, when an English and -a French officer met the Governor at the entrance of the fort, when he -tendered his surrender in military form by giving up his sword, but not -without bitter tears and a passionate exclamation expressive of wounded -national and professional honour. The officers bore the scene with -dignity, but with deep mortification, and many of them were on the verge -of mutiny against the Governor, so strong did they resist any proposals -of surrender. The garrison laid down their arms, and were marched -outside the town and placed close to our camp, with a chain of sentries -and the French around them. The number of prisoners taken was 1,500, -besides 500 killed and wounded; several of our doctors were sent to -attend their wounded in the fort. - -The prisoners were divided, the English half were taken on board the -"Vulcan," while the other half were taken on board the French ships. The -prisoners having been sent off to Constantinople, the captors proceeded -to garrison Kinburn, repairing and increasing the defences, clearing -away the ruins, repairing the walls and embrasures, replacing the -damaged cannon by large ship guns, deepening the ditch, reforming the -palisades, strengthening the parapets, restoring the casemates, -completing efficient barracks and magazines, in the interior of the -fort, and depositing a large amount of military stores of all kinds. - -When the small garrison, the other side of the estuary, opposite -Kinburn, Aczakoff, found that their guns could effect little against the -invaders, and that Kinburn was forced to yield, they blew up the St. -Nicholas battery, on the morning of the 18th, and retired a few hours -afterwards. On the 20th Generals Spencer and Bazaine set out on a -_reconnaissance_ with several regiments of both forces, about five -thousand strong. After marching on a sandy plain, like a desert, ten -miles, we halted close to a village, piled arms, and were allowed to go -foraging into the village, which we found deserted by the inhabitants; -but they left abundance of pigs, geese, fowls and provisions, bread -baking in the ovens, pails of milk and several other most useful -articles, besides in the gardens we found abundance of potatoes, -cabbage, tomatoes, pumpkins, and almost all sorts of vegetables. We -divided the town with the French; after tearing down several houses for -fuel and making camp fires, we commenced cooking fowls, turkeys, geese, -potatoes, cabbages and vegetables; while others were off through the -village killing pigs, geese, turkeys, and chickens, others cutting down -branches of trees from a wood hard by, for the purpose of making huts to -protect us for the night, as we had no tents, and covering them with hay -from the hay yards, and shaking plenty of hay inside to lie on; every -mess erected one of these huts. After indulging in the good things, -which I can assure you we enjoyed, we lay down very comfortably for the -night in the hay, and slept most soundly. Next day at two o'clock -General Spencer reviewed the troops under his command, with the French -General and his soldiers looking on. We were to have the pleasure of -another night in this camp. After enjoying boiled fowls, roast turkeys -and plenty of fresh vegetables, we lay down among the hay and slept -well, thanks be to God. Next morning, after breakfast, we marched to -another village named Roosker, ten miles off. We halted outside the -village, and sent in foraging parties from each regiment, dividing the -town with the French and placing line of sentries in the centre. As we -approached the village, the people fled, leaving everything behind, -pigs, geese, ducks, fowls, bread, milk and butter. As we killed the live -stock, we placed them on the commissariat waggons and brought the spoils -back to camp. It was a most amusing scene, the French and English -officers and soldiers shooting geese, ducks and hens, with their -revolvers, and the men chasing the pigs and stabbing them with their -bayonets. A soldier catches a pig by the hind leg, the animal drags him -into the French lines, when a French soldier claims the animal, and a -kind of a good natured quarrel ensues about the ownership of the pig. -The geese rose in flocks, and the officers had the greatest sport -shooting them. These were jolly times. After ransacking the town, we set -fire to it, and marched back to our old bivouac, ten miles distant. - -After arriving at our old camp ground, lo and behold! our huts were all -demolished, and not a thing left on the ground. The Cossacks had been -there during our absence, and burned and destroyed everything. We could -see them away in the distance, about 400 strong, watching our movements; -however, we bivouacked there as best we could that night. As we marched -back, we passed several windmills which we set fire to. Next morning we -marched to Kinburn with the commissariat waggons loaded with pigs, -geese, fowls, turkeys, potatoes, and cabbage, which were served out as -rations in the usual manner. - -On the 28th October, Generals Spencer and Bazaine began their -arrangements for our departure, first shipping all the stores, guns, and -horses, and selecting a sufficient number of troops to garrison and -guard Kinburn during the winter; but to bring away all the other forces. -Sir Edmund Lyons and the French Admiral selected the vessels which were -to be left to protect the place from any Russian attack across the -estuary. On the morning of the 29th, troops embarked on board the fleet -from the wharf at Kinburn. - -The 17th Regiment was conveyed to the Crimea, by the "Terrible." It was -a most imposing spectacle, this magnificent fleet sailing in line with -the two flag ships leading, and signalling their orders to the captains -of the other ships; the line extended over ten miles. What must the -Russians along the coast think of this immense armament? The fleet cast -anchor in Kamiesch Bay, on the 1st November; and the troops disembarked -at once and marched to our old camp on Cathcart's hill. - -This expedition did the troops more good than all the medicine in the -hospital could have done. I was a new man when I got back. If Hanratty -had braved it out as I did, and had come on with the expedition, he -might have been well by this time, instead of which he is yet in -hospital. The change of air and fresh vegetables worked wonders in -restoring and invigorating the men's health. On our return to camp we -found that a quantity of rum which was left behind, with other -regimental stores, in charge of a sergeant and twelve men was all gone; -for which the sergeant was tried and reduced, and the privates were -severely punished. - -During the month of November we had another change in the command of the -army, the appointment of General Sir W. J. Codrington, vice General -Simpson. The appointment of Sir William was very popular with the army, -and brought increased activity among the troops. - -Among other improvements, which were made to meet the wants of the army, -was a large reservoir in the ravine between the 2nd light, and the 4th -divisions, in the construction of which the French took a prominent -part. This reservoir is capable of supplying three divisions of the -British and three of the French with abundance of good spring water -during winter and summer. Everything seems to have been done now to -protect and meet the wants of the army during the coming winter. Almost -every kind of supplies is in abundance, and the army in the best of -health and spirits. - -I was in command of a divisional guard, near Tchernaya valley, when a -Russian spy was given in my charge by a cavalry _reconnaissance_ party. -I immediately posted a sentry to take charge of this prisoner; but he -watched his opportunity and slipped out under the fly of the tent. The -sentry gave the alarm, when I rushed out after him, calling a file of -the guard to follow me. As I gave him chase, I threw off my -accoutrements, in order to give me more freedom; he had then about one -hundred and fifty yards start of me, and was barefooted, whilst I had -heavy boots on; however, I gave him chase. We had run about two miles -when I saw that I was gaining on him, and I kept gaining, little by -little, for about five miles, when I came up behind him. I was then -nearly out of breath; I kept close behind him a good while till I got my -wind, then I threw my foot before him with the Connaught touch, and -pitched him on his face; then I jumped on him and held him, keeping him -down, lest he might overpower me if he got up, as he was a most powerful -man, and the file of the guard had not come up to us yet. While I gave -him an odd kick, he begged for mercy, which I granted, and marched the -Tartar back, meeting the file of the guard as I was returning. If I had -let that spy escape, I would have been tried by a court-martial; but my -Irish experience in running, before I joined the service, stood to me -then; I would have run after him into the Russian camp before I would -have lost him. When I got back to the tent, I tied him to the pole with -a guy rope, at the same time tying his hands behind his back. I was -determined he should not get away again. - -The camp followers and speculators have got so numerous that they have a -large bazaar formed in the rear of the 4th division. Large shops of -almost every description, saloons, billiard tables, restaurants, hotels, -groceries, tobacconists, wholesale and retail liquor stores, and in fact -almost everything that can be got in any town, can be had here for cash. -There is another large bazaar in the French camp. As we assemble in -Smith & Co.'s liquor store of an evening, drinking "Guiness's bottled -stout," smoking our pipe or cigar with the greatest of comfort, we could -but contrast our position with that of this time last year, when the -inclement weather commenced. The want of food, forage, huts, clothing, -fuel, medicine, roads, vehicles and horses, proved its tragic results. -Men lay down in the mire to die of despair, and no commanding officer -could tell how many of his poor soldiers would be available for duty -next day. But now, towards the close of 1855, we have every kind of -supply in abundance, thanks to the people of England! The army is well -fed and well clothed, and we are looking out for some active operations -against the enemy. The Russians continue to fortify the northern heights -without firing a shot, and we occupy the south quietly, without -disturbing them. How long this will last will be seen in the next -chapter. - - - - -[Illustration] - -CHAPTER XXIII. - - ARMISTICE—CESSATION OF HOSTILITIES—EXCHANGE OF COINS—HEIR TO - FRENCH IMPERIAL THRONE—TREATY OF PEACE—INVITATIONS—GRAND REVIEW— - REMOVAL OF THE ARMY—EMBARKATION—THE VOYAGE—SHIP ON FIRE—ARRIVAL - AT MALTA—JOIN THE RESERVE BATTALION—PROCEED TO ALEXANDRIA—THE - VOYAGE—ARRIVAL—VISIT PLACES OF RENOWN—VISIT CAIRO—THE - NILE—ARRIVAL—THE CITY—BAZAARS. - - -At the end of February, 1856, the diplomatists at Paris agreed upon an -armistice during the discussion of a treaty of peace. The immediate -effect was observable in the Crimea, as soon as the several commanders -had received information. On the morning of the 1st March, a white flag -was hoisted on the Tchernaya bridge, and near it assembled the Russian -commander, a staff of officers, and a troop of Cossacks. The English -commander with his staff, accompanied by others from the French and -Sardinians, descended across the valley to the bridge where they met the -Russians with whom they discussed the details of an armistice. The -cessation of hostilities was to last one month, during the consideration -of the treaty. Through the aid of their interpreters they decided that -the Tchernaya river was to be the boundary between the opposing armies. -The quietest month spent by the allied armies in the Crimea was the -month of March, 1856. Hostilities were entirely stopped, and yet none -could say whether they might not commence again with all their horrors. -The diplomatists at Paris had one month to decide the question of peace -or war. - -The commanders, while maintaining their boundary arrangement, did not -prohibit friendly meetings of the opposing armies on their respective -banks of the boundary line, where the officers and soldiers frequently -assembled to look at each other in peace and try to converse in a -friendly manner across the stream, when the exchange of coins and other -small articles or mementoes took place, and an interchange of civilities -such as "bono Johnny," "bono Francais," "bono Roos," besides other -complimentary expressions. This intercourse was kept up during the month -of the armistice. For the rest, the operations of the month differed -little from those of the camp at Aldershot, all the divisions being -exercised and reviewed in the open spots all round the camp. Sometimes -the Russians held their reviews on the same day that we did, with the -glittering bayonets of each full in view of the other, and both alike -safe in the conviction that no unfriendly shot would disturb the pageant. - -On the 23rd of this month, festivities in the French camp celebrated the -birth of an heir to the French imperial throne; bonfires were kindled, -guns fired, reviews held, horse-racing on the banks of the Tchernaya, -healths drank by the French and their allies, even the Russians -participated in the rejoicings, for they lighted fires all along their -lines. - -April brought with it the treaty of peace. Before the hour had arrived -when the armistice would have expired, news was received that the treaty -had been signed at Paris. When peace was proclaimed, an interchange of -invitations took place between the Russian army and the allies. The -Russian soldiers came over to our camp, in small parties at a time, -and we did the same to their camp, each party in charge of a -non-commissioned officer. I and twelve privates visited the Russian camp -and their bazaar, which we found much the same as our own. All sorts of -English goods were sold there, even "Bass's bottled ale," and "Guiness's -porter," at a dollar a bottle. Their bread was as black as your boot; -the coffee-houses were crowded with English, French and Russian -soldiers, drinking, singing, and dancing; and the interchange of any -amount of "bono Johnnys," "bono Roos," and "bono Francais," trying to -make each other believe that they were great friends. - -On the 17th April, the British and French troops had a grand review on -the heights near St. George's Monastery (at which General Luders, the -Russian commander, with his brilliant staff, was present). They were -formed up in line of continuous quarter distance columns of battalions, -when the commanders of the different armies with their gorgeous retinue -of staff and cavalry officers rode along the line, with the bands of -each regiment playing in succession; after which they marched past the -grand assemblage of commanders and staff, in quick time, each regiment -marching past in grand division style, with its band playing in front. -General Luders returned deeply impressed with the appearance of the -allied armies, and expressed himself much gratified at the attention -shown him by the allied forces. Duties of a more serious character, -however, now demanded the attention of the Generals. Large armies were -to be removed from the Crimea, and vast stores of provisions and -ammunition; besides all the round shot the Russians had fired at us -during the siege, which we had gathered and carried on our back to the -railway depôt for shipment to England with all the commissariat stores -brought down from each divisional depôt at the front where they had been -collected in such immense quantities. Day after day, during the summer -months, did the various regiments leave the Crimea, some for Malta, -others for the Ionian Islands, the West Indies, or Canada, but the -greater part for England. All the camp equipage and stores for each -regiment had to be brought into transport order, and everything brought -to Balaklava for shipment. - -About the 10th of May the 17th Regiment marched from their old camp on -Cathcart's Hill, and embarked at Balaklava at two o'clock in the -afternoon, on board the steam transport "Sir Robert Low." At 3 p.m. we -moved slowly out between the rocks which overhang the narrow entrance to -the harbour. We were all on deck with tears in our eyes, taking a last -sad look towards "Cathcart's Hill" where we had left so many noble -comrades behind in that cold desolate plateau, so far away from friends -and relatives; these thoughts filled us with sadness. As our ship glided -through the beautiful calm, blue waters of the Euxine, the land faded -from our view. We then turned our thoughts homewards after giving thanks -to God for the great mercy he had shown in bringing us safely through -all the death struggles and hardships which our brave troops had -suffered; and now that we were returning alive we had every reason to be -thankful. - -The weather being fine, we made the passage across the Black Sea in 48 -hours. The second day at two p.m., we passed the old fortress of Riva -which commands the entrance to the Bosphorus, passing Constantinople at -3 o'clock, taking a last look at that strange old city, with its -picturesque sights, the tall minarets and the blue waters of the -Bosphorus catching the golden light as the sun dipped behind the distant -hills. We rounded Seraglio point and steamed down the Marmora, passing -the Seven Towers on our right, and slowly the beautiful city faded from -our view forever. We had a smooth passage across the Sea of Marmora. -Next morning at ten o'clock we passed Gallipoli. On the 14th May, at 9 -o'clock in the evening, as our ship was running at the rate of ten knots -an hour, an alarm of fire came from the cook's galley. The troops were -immediately formed up along the decks, and the pumps manned. After a -quarter of an hour's hard work we mastered the fire, and put it out, but -not before it had burned a large hole in the ship's deck, and destroyed -the galley. We had in truth a narrow escape, the fire nearly getting the -better of us. On the morning of the 17th May we arrived at Malta, where -we received orders to proceed to Quebec. The Regiment being over the -strength of non-commissioned officers, those who had families at home -got the preference of remaining behind, and joining the reserve -battalion at Malta. I was one of the latter; after bidding good-bye to -the old regiment, with tears in my eyes, I disembarked with twelve -others and joined the reserve battalion. The regiment proceeding to -Canada next morning at 8 o'clock, we after landing, were quartered in -Strada Reale Barracks. - -The garrison was at this time filled with the soldiers of more than one -nation, and the medley of tongues was rather bewildering to the ears, as -was the diversity of costume to the eyes. There were the Italian and -German Legions promenading the streets in their gay uniforms, Malta -fencibles, English artillery and infantry. The large number of soldiers -in such a small place made it a perfect military hot-house. - -The Strada Reale, with its lazy moving crowds and singular architecture, -was soon entered. Lights were beginning to brighten the shop-windows and -streets; occasionally sparkling from the numerous bay-windows above; but -though the night was approaching, the air, deeply impregnated with the -fumes of tobacco and odour of garlic, was close and suffocating, more -especially from the intense heat exhaled from the arid rock, which had -all day blazed under a fierce sun. The barracks were so crowded, and the -weather so hot, that the doctor ordered the 17th under canvas at St. -Frances' Camp. An order detailed your humble servant, Corporal Faughnan, -to proceed on June 6th, by one of the Peninsular and Oriental Company's -steamers, to Alexandria, there to take over some marine invalids -according to written instructions, and take charge of them to Malta. - -June 6th. At nine o'clock, a.m., I embarked on board the steamer for -Alexandria. As we passed out of the harbour at 9.30, the sky was blue -and pleasant, the air balmy and clear. The Island, like a blue cloud in -the distance, faded away, and again the trackless waste of waters -stretched like a boundless expanse around us. - -June 9th. It is now three days since we left Malta. We should have been -in harbour to-day, but have been retarded somewhat by head winds. - -June 10th. Expecting to enter port this morning, I was early on deck. We -were already in sight of land. As we neared the coast, one of the first -things that caught my attention was the number of windmills, standing -upon an eminence along the shore; at first they reminded me of a line of -soldiers in skirmishing order, but as we neared them they lifted their -tall, circular forms, and stretched out their sheeted arms, like huge -sentinels keeping watch along the coast. The entrance to the harbour is -a tortuous and difficult one; vessels cannot get in by night or by day -without a very experienced pilot. We were straining our eyes to catch -the first glimpse of the strange land, and there, just upon that -projecting point of land we are now passing, where you see an -insignificant lighthouse, stood a famous and costly tower, bearing upon -its top, as it lifted its colossal form above the waves, a beacon-light -to guide the mariner to his haven. It is said to have been so lofty it -could be seen one hundred miles at sea—which of course, is a mistake. -The gigantic tower of white marble was erected by the old Egyptian kings -three hundred years before the birth of Christ. It was one of the "seven -wonders of the world." But here we are safe at our moorings. How strange -everything looks. There are the hulks of a number of great old ships, -rotting away and falling to pieces into the water. They were once the -Viceroy's fleet. The flags of many nations float from the masts around -us. There is a boat approaching with a Union Jack flying, and manned -with blue jackets. - -After landing the passengers, we had to pass through the Custom House. A -liveried servant in Turkish costume, guarding the door, politely bowed -us through, and we stood before the receiver of customs. He wore a rich -Turkish costume, a magnificent turban on his head, a gold-hilted sword -by his side; he addressed us in English and called all our names from a -list; as we answered we passed on. No other questions were asked; -personal baggage is seldom examined at this port. We had scarcely passed -the door before we were surrounded by a crowd of donkey boys in blue -shirts and red fez caps. They began pulling and snatching at our baggage -for the privilege of taking it to a hotel. Luckily, an omnibus,—a -European innovation,—from the very hotel we had selected, stood at the -entrance, and we made a sudden dash into it. A crack of the driver's -whip, and we were whirling through the dirty, narrow streets of the -Turkish quarter of the city. We soon emerged into the English part of -the town, and a magical change came over the scene; a fine open square -ornamented with fountains and surrounded with beautiful stone houses -presented a most inviting appearance. A runner from the hotel conducted -me to the Marine Hospital, when I presented the order for the invalids -to return with me to Malta, when the surgeon informed me that two of the -men had had a relapse and could not be removed for some time. This gave -me a good opportunity to visit several of the renowned localities, -places of antiquity, and monumental records, that the ravages of war and -the wreck of time have failed to obliterate. During the voyage I had -made the acquaintance of two Frenchmen, and after I got back to the -hotel they were pleased when I told them that I would have to stop at -Alexandria for some time, and did not know how long; they could speak -English pretty well and we got quite familiar. The hotel was kept by a -Frenchman, and the business of the hotel was conducted on the European -plan, but the floors and walls were constantly crumbling, scattering -sand and lime upon clothes and furniture, and affording plenty of hiding -places for bugs and fleas. Of the presence of the latter we had too -strong demonstration, but fleas in Egypt are as common as sand on the -sea shore, and we made up our mind to pay the tribute of blood demanded -by those pests, with the resignation of martyrs. - -We next visited Cleopatra's Needle, since removed to London. Of these -remarkable obelisks there are two, just within the walls and near the -sea shore at the northeast angle of the city—one is standing, the other -has fallen down and is now nearly buried in the ground. They are of the -same material as Pompey's Pillar, red granite, from the quarries of -upper Egypt. These two obelisks stood about seventy paces apart; the -fallen one lies close to the pedestal; its length, in its mutilated -state, is sixty-six feet, and was given, many years ago, by Mohammed Ali -to the British Government, who have lately brought it home. The standing -one is about seventy feet high, seven feet seven inches in diameter at -the base, and tapering towards the top about five feet. - -Next day we visited the Catacombs, which are about three miles outside -the city; the Frenchmen hired a guide and we all rode on donkeys. The -grounds near the entrance were once covered with costly habitations and -beautiful gardens. The vast extent of these underground tenements, their -architecture, symmetry, and beauty; the more wonderful from the fact -that they are all chiselled out of the solid rock, must excite the -greatest wonder and admiration. In these tombs, generation after -generation have laid their dead; Egyptians, Persians, Greeks, Romans and -Saracens have, no doubt, in turn used them, and different nations have -here blended in the common dust, at least such is the common opinion. -Ancient Alexandria, with all her magnificence and splendour, is now -nothing but heaps of ruins. The modern city stands upon the ruins of the -past—well may we say the great, immortal past. An Egyptian city at -night is a gloomy place—business suspended, shops all closed, no -amusements, no meetings, no windows next the street to shed even a -little light upon the gloomy alleys; all is involved in Egyptian -darkness, but silence is not there, for dogs are among the wondrous -speakers of this land. They howl about in packs like wolves, owning no -master, making night hideous with their row and fights; in addition to -this, the watchman's yell rang through the city every quarter of an -hour; it woke me more than the guns before Sebastopol; a calm of fifteen -minutes succeeds, and again the lengthened shout assures the citizen -"all is well." Being disturbed by the watchman's call, howling of dogs, -bugs and fleas, we could not sleep, so we were up early and had -breakfast at seven o'clock, after which we all agreed to visit Cairo, -and at once proceeded to the railway station, which, by the way, has -only been lately constructed. The present facilities for reaching Cairo -can only be appreciated by those who have been familiar with the former -slow locomotion of canal and river. Then it was by the toilsome process -of wind and oars. Now a first-class railroad of about one hundred miles -connects the cities. At ten a.m., the signal was given, and we struck -out into the great delta of the Nile; away to the left is the harbour of -Aboukir, where the immortal Nelson with his fleet met the French in -1798. His victory was complete; all the French ships except two, were -captured, and the victor was rewarded with the title, "Baron Nelson of -the Nile." - -The immense green plain stretched out each side of us as far as the eye -could reach. Crops of some kind are raised all the year round, except -while the soil is covered with water from the inundation of the Nile. -There is no cold weather to prevent the growth of vegetables. Look out -of the carriage window: do you see that long line of water just by the -side of us? It is the Nile. The Nile! The famous Nile, that has a place -in history with the Euphrates and the Jordan;—for thousands of years -sending out a living flood from its mysterious and hidden sources, -rolling onward through this great valley, and emptying itself, by its -seven mouths, into the blue sea; a river which the Egyptians worshipped, -and whose waters, by the rod of Moses, were turned into blood. - -About 5 p.m., our train came to a halt in the station of Grand Cairo. We -landed on the platform amid the strangest crowd of human beings I had -ever seen congregated. There was the Turkish official, with his great -loose sleeves and flowing robes, gold hilted sword and turbaned head, -loathsome looking beggars, wretched women and squalid children. As we -emerged from the station, a hotel porter, in English costume, addressed -us in English, "Shepherd's hotel, sir? Omnibus just here, all right!" -and in fifteen minutes we were in a good European hotel, built in the -oriental style, with a large open court and pleasure-grounds; terms only -two dollars a day. After tea, which was ready on our arrival at the -hotel, we took a walk through the city. The streets are numerous, narrow -and crooked, there being but one in the business part of the town wide -enough for a carriage; this public thoroughfare being only about 35 feet -wide, many of the others are not more than ten feet. The upper stories -of the houses projecting over the lower ones, and the large prominent -windows projecting still beyond the houses, the windows of the upper -stories are brought so near together, you could easily step from one to -the other. The bazaars are very busy places, and are thronged by a mixed -and motley multitude of people, camels, horses, donkeys, men, women, and -children, mingled together in strange confusion, while the noise and -bustle present a wild and striking scene that can be nowhere witnessed -but in an Arabic city. Amid this wild confusion may be seen a great -variety of oriental costumes. But the turbaned heads predominate, the -black of the Copt, the blue-black of the Jew, the green and white of the -Moslem are mingled in strange variety. There moves a lordly Turk with -loose sleeves and flowing robes, with all the solemn dignity of his -nation; the grandee, with his rich flowing robes of silk and lace, loose -breeches, white stockings and yellow slippers; the swarthy skinned, half -naked fellah, the bare-faced, half-dressed, toil-worn country woman with -tatooed lips and eyebrows, and by her side the dignified lady with -long, close veil, red trowsers, long yellow boots, and dress of -richly-embroidered cloth. These ladies ride astride of donkeys; the -ample folds of their long veils and loose robes almost hide the little -animal from view. - - - - -[Illustration] - -CHAPTER XXIV. - - THE PYRAMIDS—CROSSING THE NILE—ISLAND OF RODA—ARK OF - BULRUSHES—VISIT CHEOPS—HELIOPOLIS—PALACE OF SHOOBRA—PALM - GROVES—THE CITADEL—JOSEPH'S WELL—DERVISHES—RETURN - - -After hiring three donkeys to take us to the Pyramids next morning at -eight o'clock, we retired to rest and slept much better than we did the -night before; the live stock were not quite so numerous as they were in -the last hotel. We were up bright and early, had breakfast at seven -o'clock, after which we mounted our donkeys and were soon outside Cairo, -an old town on the banks of the Nile, founded upon the site of the old -Egyptian Babylon; it is much older than Grand Cairo. Here are the ruins -of the old Roman fortress, besieged and taken by the Turks. The solid -walls and high towers are yet standing, on the front of which may still -be seen the Roman eagle. This fortress has now become a Christian town -and is dedicated to St. George, the patron saint of the Copts. There are -also three convents here, one is occupied by the Roman, Armenian, and -Syrian Maronites, another by the Copts, a third by the Greeks. In this -Greek convent it is said that the Virgin and the Blessed Child, Jesus, -had their abode during their sojourn in Egypt; here, too, are ancient -structures said to have been built by Joseph, and used for treasure -houses, in which corn was stored for the days of famine. In an upper -chamber over one of the towers is an ancient Christian record sculptured -on wood in the time of Diocletian. It is well preserved and of curious -device; below is a representation of the Deity sitting on a globe -supported by two angels, on either side of which is a procession of six -figures representing the twelve apostles. Just on the opposite bank lies -Gizeh, from which the Pyramids are named, with a ferry at the upper end -of the town. As we approached the ferry, we were surprised at the number -of people who thronged the landing place; numerous boats of all -sizes were waiting for freight; donkeys and their riders, camels -with their huge burdens, ragged men and women, were mingled -together—antique-looking boats in strange confusion. After securing a -ferry boat we gave the boatman an extra sixpence each to land us for a -short time upon the beautiful little island of Roda whose grassy banks -and shady groves have long been the resort of pleasure parties from -Cairo. On this island stands the celebrated Nilometer; this is a square -chamber built of stone, in the centre of which is a graduated stone -pillar. By a scale on this pillar the daily rise of the Nile is -ascertained; this is proclaimed every day during the inundation in the -streets of Cairo. By this island, also, tradition fixes the place where -a daughter of Levi, under the pressure of that cruel decree, took an ark -of bulrushes, daubing it with slime and pitch and put the child therein -and laid it in the flags by the river's brink. At this island, the -faithful sister, Miriam, half concealed among the banks, watched with -anxious solicitude the fate of her infant brother. Are these the waters -that went rippling by the ark of the infant Moses, and over which he -afterwards stretched his miraculous rod, transforming them into a -torrent of blood? Oh Scripture, how wonderful thou art in thy story. -Landing from the boat, we were in Gizeh, an old town, the miserable -wreck of what it once was in the days of the Mamelukes. Passing along -these streets, large quantities of oranges, dates and other fruits with -bread and vegetables were exposed for sale. We bought some of these -things and had some lunch; after a half hour's rest we started again, we -had now about four miles to make across the open plain, the huge -pyramids all the time in sight; we passed three Arab villages on our -way. The appearance of indolence and poverty is everywhere apparent. A -dozen ferocious dogs with bristling hair and savage howl, were sure to -herald our approach. As we emerged from the last village the gray forms -of those great sepulchral monuments lay just before us; their huge -proportions seemed rapidly to increase as we neared them. They stand -upon a rocky eminence, their base elevated one hundred and fifty feet -above the plain just at the foot of the range of hills, behind which -lies the vast ocean of sands constituting the great Lybian desert. - -The ride was over, and we stood in amazement at the base of Cheops. -There are five groups of these pyramids, numbering in all about 40. They -extend up and down the valley for ten or twelve miles: most of them have -such gigantic proportions as to justly entitle them to a place among the -wonders of the world. They all stand upon the brow of the hills opening -back into the great Lybian desert. As we stood in deep contemplation, -gazing in wonder on this mighty structure we had come to examine, what -huge proportions; what an immense labour; what years of human toil! But -they were built for all that, and here they stand, and have stood for -thousands of years, defying the storms of the desert, and the lightnings -of the firmament; how wonderful are the works of men! About a dozen -Arabs, with loose trowsers, short jackets, and red fez caps, came up and -spoke to us. "Want to go up de top sah?" said the leader of the gang, -"me take you up, take you inside, all round." "How much you ask?" said -one of the Frenchmen. "He's the sheik," pointing to the best looking, -who stood erect, holding the folds of his striped gown about him with -all the dignity of a Turk, "he's the sheik, he make de bargains." We -agreed with the sheik, for a guide to show us up and down, inside, and -all round, for a dollar. We started with our guide,—we soon got up half -way, and there we stopped to draw breath; the steps are from two to -three feet, high, corresponding to the thickness of the layers of stone; -of these layers or tiers of stone, there are two hundred and sixty-five, -the ascent is quite fatiguing especially if one attempts to hurry; it -took us twenty minutes to reach the top. A few moments' rest and I began -to look about me, pondering on the magnitude of the stones, and the -numerous names in many languages carved upon them. Forty feet of its top -has been torn away, and what from the ground looked like a point too -small to stand on, is a broad platform, thirty feet wide. I was -surprised at the magnitude of the stones even at this height, two or -three feet thick, and several feet long, what wondrous labour it must -have been to elevate such masses of stone to such a height from the -ground, and yet men now say such nations were ignorant and uncivilized. - -I looked upon the broad plain that stretched away before me; there was -much charming in the air, at this height. I took a survey of the great -panorama, which lay in its variety and beauty at our feet. There was the -green valley of the Nile, stretching away as far as the eye could reach, -welcoming the golden sunlight that came down from the cloudless sky; -with the majestic and wonderful river, as it rolled in dignity onward to -its ocean home. Yonder in the distance were the Arabian hills skirting -the vast expanse of the Lybian desert, that lay in bleak sterility -beyond; nearer by, a spot upon the landscape, was the great city "Grand -Cairo," its great gray, towering citadel, its mosques and minarets. Then -I turned and looked down upon the battle field where Bonaparte, with -thirty thousand men, met Murad Bey; where the memorable battle of the -Pyramids was fought, and Abercrombie fell; where Bonaparte tried to -inspire his men with valour by pointing to these monuments, exclaiming: -"forty centuries are looking down upon you from these mighty structures." - -The thunder of the battle ceased, the smoke cleared away, thousands were -left dead upon the field, and the triumphant Bonaparte camped within the -walls of Grand Cairo. Cheops is a travellers' register, and many a -visitor has inscribed his name upon the summit. After adding our names -(an English barbarism I believe it to be; but it began in our -school-days) to the many already there, we descended in safety. As we -approached the base our guide led the way to the opening that conducts -to the interior. This entrance is on the north side, and about fifty -feet from the base. It is a low doorway for so magnificent a structure; -but who expects anything but a dark and dreary passage to the tomb? for -such is the place to where this opening leads, a tomb hidden in the most -stupendous pile of stones the skill and labour of man ever erected. The -entrance is a low one, and we had to stoop nearly double; we had entered -but a few feet when we found ourselves involved in darkness. Luckily we -had brought a couple of wax candles with us from Cairo; having lighted -the candles we continued to descend the narrow, dismal passage. Our -guide conducted us to the King's chamber; this is the great sepulchre -chamber of this astonishing structure. Its length is thirty-four feet -four inches; breadth, seventeen feet seven inches, and height nineteen -feet two inches. The only piece of furniture this chamber contains is a -chest of red granite, chiselled from a solid block; its size is larger -than the passage leading to the chamber, so that it must have been -placed there when the room was built. Was it for this sarcophagus this -stupendous pile of stones was erected? What has become of the lordly -occupant? When, and by whom was it filled and when did it give up its -treasure? There it stands in mute and mock defiance of every effort to -ascertain the history of its owner. Like the tomb of Jesus after the -morning of the resurrection, it was empty; the stone had been rolled -away from the door, but no angel sat upon it to give the anxious visitor -any tidings of its occupant. We now turned our attention to a few other -interesting objects in close proximity. I had often heard and read of -the Sphinx, but now I had the gratification of looking at this great -monster. We are first struck with its peculiar formation, and its -immense proportions. It is one hundred and twenty-eight feet long; from -the rock on which it rests its lion-like breast to the top of the head -is fifty-five feet nine inches. It is in a crouching posture, and it -stretches out its enormous paws fifty feet in front of its capacious -breast. This unwieldy monster is a monolith, cut from the native rock of -the limestone of which it forms a part. This imposing head was adorned -with a covering much resembling a wig, the flowing hair of which can -still be seen projecting from each side. Time, the driving sands of the -desert, and the hand of violence, have left their wasting influence on -this noble piece of Art. The horns that adorned the head have been -broken off, but there it stands without them, still grand, noble, and -majestic. - -The whole western bank in this vicinity of the green valley of the Nile, -for miles and miles, has been consecrated to the repose of the dead. -Here are the sepulchres of kings, mummy pits, ibis tombs and rock-hewn -chambers, for the magnificent sarcophagi of Apis bulls. Here countless -thousands have been gathered unto their fathers, and the sands of the -desert are every year covering them deeper and deeper. In the centre of -one of these pits was a large granite chest, cut from the solid block, -very much like the one I have described in the king's chamber in the -pyramid. This was covered by a lid of the same material. This lid had -been carefully lifted off and set on one side. Within the chest lay the -sarcophagus. It was covered with hieroglyphical figures and -inscriptions, and looked as fresh and perfect as when first deposited. -It had not yet been opened. Within that sculptured chest was sleeping -the mummied remains of some distinguished personage. For thousands of -years he had enjoyed here the quiet sleep of the tomb, among his fathers -and kindred; but now his long repose must be disturbed, and in some -far-off museum, inquisitive strangers would gaze upon the blackened and -withered features, and wonder who he was! After seeing those wondrous -ancient monuments of Egyptian greatness and idolatry, and paying the -sheik and backsheesh to our guide, we mounted our lively little donkeys -and returned to Cairo. - -The sun was just dipping his golden disk beneath the western horizon, -far over the distant deserts, as we entered the gates and wound our way -through the narrow crowded streets of Grand Cairo. We crossed the -suburbs, gained the hotel, and enjoyed a good bath. A hard day's toil -climbing the pyramids gave additional relish to the smoking viands, and -refreshed, we retired to bed to dream of stone-coffins, mummy-pits, and -sphinx. We awoke next morning from a refreshing sleep. The sun was -shining in at our windows, the songs of the birds were awaking inspiring -echoes among the tangled foliage of the Ezbekieh, and the air was -fragrant with the perfume of the sweet flowers of the East. The day was -to be devoted to an excursion to some place of interest a few miles from -the city. Breakfast over, we stood on the steps of the hotel and our -three donkey boys whom we had engaged were in readiness; we mounted our -donkeys and started off to visit the ruins of Heliopolis, the ancient -On, or the City of the Sun. These ruins are about six miles from Cairo, -and the ride a most delightful one, through green fields of corn and -various productions of the luxuriant soil. Now an orange grove opens -upon our sight, then an extensive vineyard, while all the time our -pathway was shaded by avenues of tamarack, fig and acacia, that wove -their branches in tangled arches above our head. As we approached -nearer, a beautiful obelisk lifts its slender form high into the -heavens, standing in solitary grandeur the only monument left to mark -the site of the ancient, opulent city. It is a single shaft of red -granite, sixty-eight feet two inches high, and six feet three inches -broad at the base. This is the oldest obelisk in existence, and here it -stands in its original position. Its firm base and towering head have -withstood all the assaults of time, the convulsions of the elements and -the devastations of war. The wreck and ruin of four thousand years have -not prevailed against it. The grounds around and in the vicinity of this -obelisk have been cultivated, here the fellaheen sow their seed and -gather their harvest, yet here stood one of the oldest and finest cities -of the world, and here are buried the remains of some of the earliest -temples. The ancient Egyptian name of the city, as interpreted, is the -"City of the Sun." The Greeks called it Heliopolis, and the Hebrews, -Bethshemesh (House of the Sun). This place was one of the most -celebrated seats of ancient learning; it was famed for astronomy as well -as the worship of the sun. The sacred bull, Mervis, shared also with the -sun the divine honours of the city, and was one of the most noted among -the sacred animals of Egypt. Not far from the obelisk is the beautiful -fountain of the sun; the water springing directly from the earth. The -people say this is the only living spring in the valley of the Nile. A -few yards from this spring a very old sycamore tree spreads broad and -thick its massive branches, forming an inviting shade. When Joseph and -Mary, with the child Jesus, fled from the jealous and cruel Herod, and -took refuge in Egypt, tradition says they reposed under the shadow of -these overhanging boughs and drank water from the renowned fountain. -Here, too, was the school of Moses. From the waters of the Nile that -flowed but a little distance from here, the daughter of Pharoah rescued -the weeping infant; and she called him Moses, for she "drew him out of -the water." In the court of Pharoah he found a home. Here he became -learned in all the wisdom of the Egyptians. How all those recollections -forced themselves on me. We next visited the palace of the Shoobra; it -is about four miles from the city and near the banks of the Nile. A -beautiful avenue, shaded by acacia trees, leads from the city to it; -when these trees are in bloom they fill the air with fragrance. The -grounds are beautifully laid out, and are frequently open to the public, -and large numbers of visitors resort to them. They are beautifully -diversified with terraces, walks, towers, flowers and shaded avenues. -Many of the walks are tastefully paved with small black and white -pebbles, wrought into various designs of Mosaic work. The great -attraction of the garden is a noble reservoir of water gushing from -marble fountains in the forms of crocodiles. From this beautiful place -where the senses are regaled by nature and art, we returned to the city -and made a special detour, in order to pass through an Egyptian date -palm grove. These groves are planted in rows like our orchards. It is -surprising what a variety of purposes the tree serves, and how useful it -is made. These trees sometimes grow from fifty to seventy feet high, and -are of uniform size from top to bottom. The summit is surmounted by a -beautiful crown of leaves. Every part of the tree seems to be of some -use; a charming beverage is made from the fruit, used among the natives; -wine is made from the sap. The bark and part of the wood are -manufactured into mats, baskets, and various other useful articles, the -leaves are manufactured into a great variety of fancy articles. But the -large crop of fruit is what renders it most valuable, and the failure of -the date crop is one of the greatest calamities that can befall the -land; the tree is also ornamental as well as useful. They are the most -beautiful and striking objects of Egyptian landscape scenery. This grove -is very extensive and spreads over several miles of the country. But -while we have visited these places of interest the day has rapidly -passed, and the evening sun is throwing his parting rays upon the -beautiful landscape, and we must hasten to our hotel. Once more we are -threading our way through the narrow streets of the city, and our ears -are saluted with strange sounds from the vendors of different articles, -as they hawk them about. The streets are passed, the din of cries die -away in the distance; we are back to the hotel; a long ride and the -delightful air has given us a good appetite for the evening meal which -was ready on our arrival. After we had done justice to the delicious -oriental viands, prepared for us by our hospitable host, we retired for -the night and slept well. After breakfast next morning, we walked out to -visit some of the ancient monuments of this wonderful city. The citadel -was the first object of our admiration. It is the fortress of the city -and tower of its defence, the depository of its munitions of war. It -stands upon a hill, its massive, frowning walls overlooking the city on -one side, and on the other the great barren desert that stretches away -towards the Red Sea. From this tower is one of the finest views that can -be obtained. First cast your eye towards the great Lybian desert, and -see the time-defying pyramids, from the top of which we have before -contemplated this land of the Pharaohs. On the other side, the beautiful -Nile, slowly weaving his serpentine folds through groves of palm, and -along green and flowery banks, and a city of three hundred thousand -inhabitants at our feet, with the massive circuitous walls that enclose -it; the great mosques and multitude of minarets that crown them all, -forming one of the most remarkable and striking peculiarities of a -Mohammedan country. Within this fortress stands a splendid palace of the -Pasha, and by its side the harem, with beautiful fountains and pleasure -grounds. - -But what astonished us most, is the wonderful contrivance to supply the -citadel with water; it is certainly worthy of the presiding genius of -the land. This well is cut into the solid rock to the enormous depth of -two hundred and sixty feet, and at the mouth fifty feet wide. Around the -wall is a winding stairway cut close into the rock, with a partition -wall of the rock left, about three feet thick, between it and the well, -with occasional holes for windows to look through into the main shaft. -Any one who has seen Dover shaft leading from Snargate street to the -heights, will at once understand how this well is constructed; the open -passage through the centre of that structure corresponding to the well; -the circular stairway winding round it, to the descent here, cut in the -rock, by which the bottom is reached. One of the most striking things -connected with the well, is the manner of elevating the water. A large -ox is taken down this winding stairway near to the bottom of the well -where a cog-wheel machine for raising water is situated. The food is -taken down to him, and he is kept here as long as he is able to work. - -This well was found covered up under a wall, by Sultan Yoosef (Joseph) -while clearing away the debris when building the fortress in A.D. 1711, -hence "Joseph's well." Turning from the well, we next pay a visit to the -mosque of Mohammed Ali. It is a gorgeous structure, the finest and most -renowned in Modern Egypt, standing upon the hill of the citadel and -inclosed by its ramparts; it lifts its proud form high above its -companions. The whole interior, pillars, walls, and arches is of -beautiful alabaster brought from the quarries of upper Egypt. - -The mosque is also a burying place. It is the tomb of Mohammed Ali. He -built it during his life, chiefly with the design of making it a -mausoleum for his ashes when his eventful career was at an end. A -conspicuous part of the building has been set apart for his tomb; a -railing surrounds it, gorgeous decorations have been lavished upon it, -and near it lights are kept continually burning. Here, in pompous state -he reposes, and dreams no more of rivals, of conquests, or of power. -Such is life! This being our last day in Grand Cairo, after tea we -walked round the city to see all we could of this ancient place, and -learn the habits of the people. - -Here may be seen exhibitions and illustrations of all the passions and -affections of the human heart. As we were returning to our hotel, we saw -under the shade of a tree a company of Dervishes. These are a singular -religious sect; they are anxious to obtain a reputation for superior -sanctity, and many of them make pretensions to the performance of -miracles. They are frightfully superstitious. Their devotional exercises -are often of the wildest and most extravagant kind. Taking hold of hands -in a large circle round a tree, they commence swinging their bodies -backward and forward, jerking the head and shaking the hands, keeping -time to a sort of murmuring exclamation, sometimes pronouncing the name -of "Allah." As the excitement increases, they toss their hair, foam at -the mouth, scream and seem to give themselves up to the wildest excesses -of religious enthusiasm. They let go hands and then commence spinning -round like a top, stretching out their arms. By the velocity of their -motion, spreading out their loose dress like a large umbrella, for -twenty minutes or more, without pause or rest, and continually -increasing velocity. These religious devotees will twirl with a rapidity -truly astonishing, making fifty revolutions a minute. We are indeed -sorry to see their example followed in England by the Jumpers, &c. But -we have seen enough of this foolish, useless, so-called religious -enthusiasm. It would be well if such energy and devotion could be turned -into a more useful channel. This, however, can only be done by God and -His Church. Here is our hotel, and our day's excursion is ended. - -We were up early next morning and had breakfast at seven o'clock, -settled our bill with the landlord, and rode to the railway station in -an omnibus, and took our departure by train at ten o'clock for -Alexandria. - - - - -[Illustration] - -CHAPTER XXV. - - THE HOSPITAL—MOHAMMEDAN SABBATH—DEPARTURE—THE VOYAGE—MALTA— - DEPARTURE—VOYAGE FOR ENGLAND—PORTSMOUTH—VOYAGE TO DUBLIN— - ARRIVAL AT LIMERICK—THE 6TH ROYAL REGIMENT—PROMOTED—ALDERSHOT— - ROUTE FOR GIBRALTAR—THE VOYAGE. - - -On my arrival at Alexandria, I went to the Hospital, where I was -informed that I would have to wait a few days longer. The men were fast -improving, but were not sufficiently recovered to warrant the doctor's -confidence of their strength, or to survive the trials of a long voyage. - -When I returned to the hotel, the two Frenchmen were waiting my return -for dinner. Next morning they were to leave Alexandria by steamer for -Jaffa, _en route_ for the Holy Land. After breakfast I accompanied them -to the steamer, and there we parted, perhaps for ever. They were jovial, -decent fellows, and we enjoyed each other's company very much during our -short acquaintance. Their names were respectively Napoleon Pomponnet and -Joseph Belair. - -It being Friday, the Mohammedan Sabbath, I visited one of their mosques, -which is always open and made a place of public prayer. Here the devout -come at all times of the day to perform their devotions; but the child -of the Prophet does not abstain from his ordinary work on the Sabbath, -except at the hour of prayer, about midday, and then the mosques are -crowded. The mosque is built round a central square; around this square -a portico is built, and in the centre of it is a fountain of water for -ablution. A good supply of water seems to be considered indispensable -among Mohammedans to purify for worship. The side of the building facing -Mecca is the most important one. The portico on this side is more -spacious, and has one or two extra rows of columns. This side of the -mosque is the place of prayer. A niche in the wall marks the direction -of Mecca, and in that direction the faces of the worshippers are always -turned—Christians always turn to the east. To the right of this niche -stands the pulpit, and on the opposite side is a raised platform, -supported by small columns, on which is a desk, upon which is kept a -volume of the Koran, and from it a chapter is read to the congregation. -The floors have no seats, and are covered with matting to accommodate -the worshippers; the rich and the poor pray side by side. Females -scarcely ever go to pray in the mosque; if they go at all they go at -different hours to the men, and by themselves—but they are taught that -it is better to pray in private. Indeed, it is said, women seldom, if -ever, pray at all! One little ceremony, however, must not be forgotten. -Do not attempt to enter a mosque with your boots on. Recollect that, O -Englishmen! These devout attendants would lift up their hands in holy -horror, and send you back as a dog. Stockings are not generally worn, -except by the best classes, who wear cotton socks in very cold weather; -the only covering for their feet ever worn is a low kind of slipper, -made of yellow morocco leather, sharply pointed and turned up at the -toes. As these are always slipped off when one enters a mosque they are -turned down at the heel. The Mohammedan Sabbath comes on Friday, the -Jews' on Saturday, and the Christians' on Sunday—the Lord's Day. Here I -am, where the Sundays come in succession, so that extremes meet, for we -have no Sunday at all, although five periods are set apart in each day -as special seasons of prayer. These, every good Mohammedan is expected -to observe, but they are neglected, and many persons, it is said, do not -pray at all. But this neglect does not arise from the want of an -admonition. From the minarets of their mosques the call is regularly -made. One of these calls is just after midnight, another about the break -of day. At the appointed hour, the muezzin ascends to the gallery of the -minaret, pitches his voice to a monotonous chant, and commences, "God is -great! God is great! Prayer is better than sleep! I testify that there -is no deity but God! I testify that Mohammed is God's prophet! Come to -prayer, come to prayer!" Sometimes quite long exhortations are given. -The Mohammedan Sabbath is but little regarded. The bazaars are all open, -and labour of every description is carried on. The mosques are opened an -hour at noon, and yet but few take any notice of the call to prayer. -Here are several Christian places of worship—both Roman Catholic and -Protestant—besides several Greek chapels. - -Monday morning at ten o'clock, I went to the hospital, when the doctor -informed me that the men would proceed by the steamer which arrived from -the east yesterday afternoon on her way to Malta. I then returned to the -hotel, settled with the landlord, came and received the invalids from -the hospital, and marched them on board one of the Peninsular & Oriental -Company's steamers. At two p.m. we moved out from the harbour, the sky -was of a deep blue, not a cloud or film of vapour as big as a man's hand -to cast a flitting shadow on the calm, blue waters as they glistened in -the summer's sun. I stood upon the promenade deck, my eyes intently -fixed upon the receding shore, and as it faded from my view I bade -farewell to Egypt, "Adieu, thou strange and wondrous land! land of the -old wonders, the phœnix, the pyramids and sphinx, I shall never see thee -more! Egypt what a treasure book of history and of study thou hast been! -Once thou wert the pride and glory of the earth, but now how changed and -fallen! Thy temples and gods have crumbled into dust! Plundered even of -the remnants of thy former greatness! The occupants of thy tombs have -been borne away, thy obelisks removed, and what remained of thy statues, -altars and images, stolen to adorn the parks and enrich the museums of -modern cities. But, though thou sittest in silence, solitude and -degradation, the traveller will still come and muse among thy ruins, and -thou wilt ever continue to be teacher among the nations!" Such were the -reflections that passed through my mind as the dark line of shore grew -fainter and fainter, blending with the rolling billows of the deep blue -sea, till all was out of view. I looked about me—there was the ship on -which I stood, the deep blue vault of the heavens over my head, the vast -expanse of waters that encircled me, and all the rest had disappeared. -We have about four days' sail from Alexandria to Malta. The attention, -civility and politeness with which the passengers were treated during -this voyage by the captain and crew deserve our warmest gratitude. After -a delightful voyage of nearly four days, we entered the harbour of -Valetta about eight o'clock on the morning of the 25th June, 1856. After -landing, I reported myself at the brigade office, and handed over the -invalids at the general hospital, marched out to St. Frances' camp and -joined my battalion there. While stationed in Malta we were exercised by -the general commanding the garrison, with a battalion of the German and -Italian legion, twice a week on Flori-Anne Square. Except those general -reviews, we did very little drill, duty was very easy, and the rations, -to us, after the hard-tack we were used to in the Crimea, seemed -excellent. We got a generous supply of smoking warm goat's milk in our -coffee every morning and also for our tea in the evening. The milkman -brought his flock of goats round to our tents crying out, "milk! Johnny -me change milk with mungey for the goat." We traded pieces of bread for -goat's milk. - -The houses are built of grey stone; the streets are steep and narrow; -many of them have stone stairways cut in the solid rock, and some of -them are arched over head. One of the most venerable and interesting -structures in this ancient city is the old church of St. John, which was -built in honour of the patron saint of the knights; it is 240 feet long -by 60 feet wide. The most curious part of this church is the floor; -beneath it many of the old knights are entombed, and above them the -armorial bearings of all the Grand Masters of the order are inlaid in -Mosaic of various and beautifully coloured marbles. The hand of time has -faded the fine fresco paintings of the dome of this venerable structure, -but the elaborate Mosaic work of the floor is still the wonder and -admiration of every visitor. The climate is warm and exhilarating, the -air salubrious and invigorating, and many invalids come here from colder -latitudes to restore their health during the winter months. But our time -at this delightful station is short; we embark for England on the 18th -July. - -At last the long wished for day (by some) has arrived, and we embarked -on board H.M.S. "Simoom," in Valetta harbour at ten o'clock a.m. the -18th July, 1856. All being ready at two p.m. we steamed slowly out of -the harbour amid cheer after cheer from the citizens and soldiers who -crowded the batteries along the harbour to give us a last cheer and wave -of their handkerchiefs; we all stood on the deck returning the cheers -and waving our handkerchiefs also until the island, like a little cloud, -vanished from view in the distance. - -The sky was blue, the air clear and invigorating, and scarce a ripple on -the face of the deep. As our noble ship glided smoothly through the -clear blue waters of the Mediterranean, our hearts were glad and our joy -was great to think that we were returning to our homes, our families and -our friends, who were anxiously waiting our return. The afternoon was -occupied in swinging hammocks and drawing blankets and provisions from -the ship's steward; the men were in the best of spirits, and amused -themselves during the voyage in singing, dancing, and all sorts of -amusing games. We had excellent rations during the voyage, plum-pudding -and pea soup on alternate days. On the morning of the fourth day we -sighted the old rock of Gibraltar, rearing its lofty crest to the sky. -As we rounded Europa point our transport hoisted her number (every ship -that passes the rock must show her colours) which was answered from the -signal station, which stands on the loftiest point of the rock. At -twelve o'clock we cast anchor in the quarantine harbour where we had a -delay of two hours, during which time we were surrounded with bumboats, -selling all sorts of delicious fruits, oranges, lemons, cigars, tobacco -and pipes to the men. At two p.m. we weighed anchor and steamed down -through the straits, soon leaving the rock of Gibraltar far behind. As -our ship glided swiftly before a beautiful breeze with studding-sails -set, sweeping onward like some huge bird of prey through "The Gut," we -could not help noticing the contrast of scenery between the Spanish and -African sides of the straits; the former beautifully clothed in a mantle -of green, with herds of sheep pasturing along its undulating banks down -to the water's edge; while the latter with its barren-looking and sun -scorched hills, and tremendous precipices, rising several thousand feet -above the sea, looked more wild and picturesque. The evening was so -delightful, we all sat on deck till a late hour enjoying the sublimity -and grandeur of the scene; the moon shone so clear and brilliantly from -her celestial throne, and the stars twinkling bright and shining in the -clear blue firmament, throwing a pale light through the face of the -deep, watching at the same time our noble ship, as she glided swiftly -through the smooth clear waters, dashing the sparkling spray and foam -from her bows. On the morning of the fifth day from Gibraltar, we sailed -round the green shores of the Isle of Wight, on the one side, while the -low sandy coast of Hampshire, indented by the roadstead of Portsmouth, -that showed a perfect forest of masts towering above its sea defences, -made the beautiful island look most lovely, recollecting it was the -place where Her Majesty lived and which she loved. We passed through the -stately ships of war, as they rode majestically at anchor; an -interchange of signals took place between the flag ship and ours, -directing our captain where to anchor we supposed, and soon we cast -anchor off Portsmouth harbour, and shortly after the troops disembarked -and marched to Anglesea Barracks, where we were quartered _pro tem._ -Soon after our arrival, my wife and two children joined me; we rested -here a week when we embarked on board a mail steamer for Dublin, landing -at the north wall on the 6th August, after a rather rough passage; all -the women and children were sea sick; marched to Kingsbridge station -where we took the train for Limerick; arriving there at four p.m. we -joined the depôt in the New Barracks. I was here about three months when -my oldest child, a boy six years old, took sick with the scarlet fever, -and on the 23rd November, 1856, he died. I was very happy previous to -this, but the death of this only boy made me very sorrowful. - -On the first of March, 1856, I was appointed assistant school teacher at -the garrison school, where I continued until the 22nd November, 1856, -when I volunteered with several other non-commissioned officers to the -2nd Battalion 6th Royal Regiment, which was then being raised at Preston -by Lieutenant-Colonel Fraser. Our depôt being over the strength of -non-commissioned officers, we were allowed to volunteer to this new -battalion. At ten o'clock a.m. on the 22nd November, after signing our -accounts, and receiving our pay up to that time, we took the train for -Dublin, thence by steamer to Liverpool, where we landed at 7 o'clock on -the morning of the 23rd, had breakfast at a hotel, and proceeded by the -ten o'clock train to Preston; arriving there at two p.m. marched to -barracks, and reported ourselves at the orderly room of the 2nd -Battalion 6th Royal Regiment. Next morning at ten o'clock, -Lieutenant-Colonel Fraser, with Adjutant Kitchener, inspected us at the -orderly room, and posted us to our respective companies. That evening my -name appeared in regimental orders thus: - - "REGIMENTAL ORDERS BY LT.-COL. FRASER, - COMMANDING 2ND BATTALION, 6th ROYAL REGIMENT. - PRESTON BARRACKS, 24th Nov., 1857. - -1085, Corporal Thomas Faughnan to be Colour-Sergeant from the 22nd -instant, and posted to No. 5 Company. - - By Order, - (Signed) H. KITCHENER, - Lt. & Adjutant 2nd B., 6th R. Reg't." - -Next day Lieutenant Kelson, who commanded No. 5 company, appointed me -his pay-sergeant. The company were 150 strong, and not one of them had -yet received their uniform and kits. Between the drills and parades -which were long and frequent, I drew the recruits' uniforms, knapsacks, -and kits from the quartermaster's store, marked them myself, and had -their clothing altered and properly fitted at the master-tailor's shop. -I must say the Crimea was nothing to what I went through in Preston. -After the battalion had got organized, clothed and drilled, we got the -route for Aldershot. - -On the 26th February, 1858, at 10 o'clock in the morning we proceeded by -rail to Aldershot, arriving at Farnborough Station at 4 o'clock in the -afternoon, and marched to South Camp, where we were quartered in the -huts of L lines. During our term at Aldershot, the battalion was put -through a strict course of drill. On the 15th of April, H. M. the Queen, -and H. R. H. Prince Albert, received the troops in camp, when we marched -in grand divisions. They were much pleased at the manner in which the -movements were performed by the young battalion, and H. R. H. Prince -Albert expressed himself in a highly complimentary manner to the -general, who conveyed it to the troops in orders. After the review was -over, Her Majesty and Prince Albert drove round the camp in an open -carriage as the men were at dinner, when the band of each regiment -played "God Save the Queen" as they passed each respective regiment. -That was the last time I ever saw H. R. H. Prince Albert, for he died, -deeply lamented by the British Army, on the 14th December, 1861. On the -second of May we received a letter of readiness for Gibraltar. On the -12th, the colonel received the route to proceed by rail on the 18th -inst., to Portsmouth, there to embark on board of H. M. Ship "City of -Manchester" for Gibraltar. On the morning of the 18th May, 1858, the -second Battalion 6th Royal Regiment marched from South Camp to -Farnborough Station, where we took the train for Portsmouth. The signal -being given, the train moved out of the station with its lively freight -of redcoats, rattling steadily on over the beautiful green landscapes. -Trees seem to go rushing past; still on and on, panting in its rapid -course, flies the long train, clattering past walls and bridges with a -crash, whistling shrill to warn the unwary of its approach, and howling -like a demon pursued, as with hiss and roar it plunges into the tunnel. -To describe all the incidents which came under my notice at the station -might be thought tedious. Suffice it to say that we arrived at -Portsmouth at 2 p.m. and embarked on board H. M, Ship "City of -Manchester," in the main dockyard. At 4 p.m. all being reported present -and correct, the captain gave the signal and we moved out from the wharf -amid loud cheers from the spectators, which were heartily returned by -the red coats on board, and we passed down the bright, sparkling Solent, -glistening in the sunshine of a beautiful May day. - -The spectacle was not lost on many of us, as our ship passed through the -crowds of magnificent men-of-war and transports, with their sails -glittering like silver in the summer sun. After we passed through the -Needles, late in the afternoon, the wind being favourable, we spread our -wide canvas to the evening breeze, and now the sun went down leaving a -pale glare over the dark horizon; the wind began to freshen and the sea -to rise. The beacon on the Eddystone lighthouse faintly faded like a -little spark and disappeared; on went the good ship bounding beneath a -starry firmament, the dim trackless ocean stretching before us like the -undiscovered realms of the future, and I once more bade farewell to -England. At nine o'clock the last post sounded, when those who were not -already in their hammocks now turned in. I stopped on deck watching the -sailors reefing sails and handling the ship, and when tired of listening -to the piping of the wind through the rigging, and the shrill sound of -the boatswain's whistles, I followed the example of my comrades and -turned into my hammock. I was awakened in the middle of the night by a -tremendous noise on deck. Footsteps rattled, shuffled, and stamped above -my head, and every now and then, amidst hoarse shouting, whistling and -yells of "Aye, aye, sir," there was a sound of banging down upon the -deck of heavy coils of rope. The ship was tilted over very much on one -side, and at times shivering from bow to stern as a heavy sea struck her -on the beam. Several of the recruits on hearing this uproar, jumped from -their hammocks with fright; some thought the mast had gone overboard, or -that the ship was on fire, or had sprung a leak and was fast going to -the bottom; but I divined the cause at once, and told them that the wind -had changed and the sailors were reefing topsails, when they all turned -into their hammocks again. - -The motion of the ship, now heading against a heavy sea, became very -unpleasant; she heaved, jolted, and pitched so that I found it in vain -to sink again to sleep, but after a couple of hours I again sunk into -the arms of Morpheus, where from a heavy and dreamless slumber I was -once more aroused between five and six o'clock in the morning by the -orderly-sergeant rousing the men to stow away hammocks and wash decks, -and a hard job he had of it, for most of them were very sick. Just hear -the orders and the replies: "Peter Riley, come get out of that hammock," -said the sergeant. "Tommy Devanny," said a voice, "d'ye hear the -sergeant? Are you going to lay there all day like a lazy land lubber?" -"Och, sergeant, I'm that sick, I'm as wake as' wather, an' not able to -stand on my feet, I'm so sick!" "You get a piece of fat pork, and bob it -up and down your throat, then swallow it and see if that doesn't get you -all right," "Och, sergeant, for the love of God, lave me alone, I'm -dyen, send for the docther, and the Lard have marcy on your muther's -sowl." The latter supplication was addressed to Sergeant Bramall, who, -unable any longer to restrain his indignation, had seized the blankets, -and was tugging and tearing them out of Private Tommy Devanny's hammock. -A thud on the deck, and a loud roar of laughter, announced that the -sergeant had succeeded in dragging the offender from his hammock. - -The men were soon up and busily engaged, the pump and hose were set -going, and the inundation and swabbing went on briskly; all hands were -at work with swabs, scrubbers and scrapers. The ship was still heaving, -although the warm sun had burst through the heavy clouds. When the -breakfast bugle sounded at eight o'clock many of the recruits were -absent through sea sickness. Time will not permit me further to detail -the distresses of landsmen who encountered at starting a gale of wind -which lasted nearly two days; I only wish, good reader, you may never -experience it. I shall simply record the satisfaction experienced by -many of the redcoats on board the "City of Manchester," when the wind -changed and sent us flying at the rate of ten to twelve knots an hour, -as we shaped our course across a well-known bay of tempestuous -character, which, however, on the present occasion was found quiet -enough. It was, however, a joyful moment when the rocky and precipitous -coast of Cape St. Vincent, loomed up distinctly through the hot mist of -the early morning; and before many hours had elapsed our transport was -bounding before the breeze through the straits of Gibraltar. The men -were now perfectly recovered from sea-sickness, and they assembled on -deck looking out for the long wished-for haven, and gazed on the -much-talked of "old rock of Gibraltar," which was to be our present -home. At three o'clock p.m., 25th May, 1858, we moved into our moorings -at the new mole, and in half-an-hour disembarked and marched to the Town -Range Barracks, and part to the Wellington Front and King's Bastion. - - -[Illustration] - - - - -[Illustration] - -CHAPTER XXVI. - - ARRIVAL—SPANISH BULL-FIGHTS—LIEUT. JACKSON—CHANGE QUARTERS—THE - ROCK—MONKEYS—CAVES—GARDENS—WAR IN ALGIERS—CORFU—VOYAGE— - ARRIVAL—SANTA MARIA—DESERTION—THE MARCH—GREEKS. - - -The 2nd Battalion 6th Royal Regiment was stationed in Gibraltar four -years, during which time we were changed from one barracks to the other, -about every twelve months. In the summer of 1859, H.R.H. the Prince of -Wales visited Gibraltar, when the troops gave him a right royal -reception. St. Michael's Cave, all the caverns and subterranean -passages, as well as the city, were illuminated on the occasion, with a -grand military ball at the convent, and a public one at the theatre. The -inhabitants turned out _en masse_, and gave him a hearty welcome as he -drove through the streets in an open carriage, with military bands -playing and guards of honour as he entered and got out of his carriage, -at the entrance to the convent. On the 31st July, Captain J. E. Tewart -joined the regiment, and took charge of No. 5 company at the King's -Bastion. On the 15th of August, myself and several other sergeants of -the garrison, with their wives, rode into Spain, some on horseback; more -on side-cars, to witness a bull-fight at San Roque. On arrival we put up -our horses at an hotel, and paid a dollar each to go in. - -Where the bull-fight was held is a large structure capable of containing -ten thousand people. It is built of stone, with seats like a circus, and -enclosed with a high wall of ancient architectural design, gaily -ornamented, with flags waving all round on its summit. - -One half of this enclosure is allotted and tastefully decorated, with an -elaborately fitted box and a canopy surmounted with the Royal Arms of -Spain, for the Royal family, and a splendid military band on a platform -over the entrance. When drawing near the opening scene, the seats were -all filled with a gaily dressed audience, the Spanish ladies in their -gorgeous fineries, with their fans waving continually. In the ring were -six mounted cavaliers, armed with lances and coats of mail, and six more -on foot, with silk mantles lined with crimson across their arms, and -swords drawn. - -Then the gate flies open, and the bull rushes into the ring; the people -cheer and shout; the bull roars and paws the ground, runs at a horseman, -when the rider sticks him with his lance. Madly he rushes at a red cloak -held out by a footman, and falls headlong on his face. In this way they -tease him until he foams with rage. The footmen throw gaily dressed -loaded darts, and stick them in his neck, when the dart explodes with a -loud report. This maddens him; he shakes his head, and rushes at a -horse, tearing out his entrails and raising him on his horns; the -footmen fool him with the red cloaks and loaded darts. When the bull -corners a man, he slips into a side place made for that purpose. After -he is well exhausted, and having over two dozen darts dangling from his -neck, the professor undertakes to kill him. He plays with him a long -time, fooling him with the red cloak and sword; at last, when he gets a -good chance, he sinks the sword to the hilt just in the back of the -head. When the bull gives the last roar and drops, throwing his life -blood out of his mouth, the professor salutes the audience, who cheer -him vociferously. - -Three gay teams of smart ponies, with rich trappings, enter the ring and -draw off the dead bull and horses; when the band plays while the ring is -being cleared for another fight. As we returned from the bull fight, we -passed some Spaniards who were driving mules; the road being narrow, one -of the sergeants shoved a mule out of the road, when the Spaniard threw -a stone, striking one of the ladies who were on the side car; then -colour-sergeant Marshall jumped down to chastise the Spaniard; they -closed on each other, the sergeant throwing him down in the scuffle; the -Spaniard drew his stiletto and stabbed the sergeant, who cried out "I am -stabbed," when the Spaniard ran away. Some British sailors who were -passing at the time gave chase and caught him; one of the sailors took -out his jack-knife and cut the sign of the cross deep on the Spaniard's -back, saying, "if I have to swear against you, I will have a mark so as -I may know you again;" giving the Spaniards a good thrashing, they left -them. The wound which the sergeant received did not seem much at first, -but he was taken to the hospital where he lay for eight days, and died -from the wound, deeply regretted by the battalion. The Spaniard was -caught, tried, convicted, and transported for two years, on the sailor's -evidence, who marked him on the back with the jack-knife. - -After putting in four months in camp at the Old North Front, where we -went through a course of rifle instruction and ball practice under our -instructors, Captain Kerr, Lieutenant Nugent and Sergeant Parkinson, we -were changed to the South Barracks. Here the colonel and officers -encouraged all sorts of amusements amongst the men. Each captain -purchased a boat for his company, and the sergeants got out a splendid -outrigger 40 feet long, from Clasper, the famous boat-builder on the -Tyne. In addition to the boating, Lieutenant Jackson, of the Royal -Artillery, organized garrison reading rooms, where all the latest -periodicals and newspapers, with excellent libraries, were at the -service of the troops, and even schools where the men could learn -English, French and Spanish, and all sorts of amusing games, such as -billiards, bagatelle, backgammon, dominoes and chess. This is what ought -to be in every barracks, it keeps the men from the low dram shops and -saloons and makes men and soldiers of us, giving us _esprit de corps_! -Lieutenant Jackson was a barrack-room word with the garrison. He made -himself very popular amongst the troops by the unremitting exertions he -used in order to improve the condition, habits, education, comfort, and -amusement of the non-commissioned officers and privates of the garrison. - -At those barracks the Roman Catholics and Protestants occupied the same -church, the former at ten o'clock and the latter at eleven. The English -Church chaplain, Rev. Mr. Gardiner, was a most elegant preacher, and a -very popular clergyman, so much so, that the sergeants of the 6th -Regiment subscribed and sent to London for a beautiful bible, which we -presented to him, with an address, couched in the warmest expressions of -admiration and gratification for his ability as an eloquent preacher, as -well as his sincerity, enthusiasm, passionate ardour, and unremitting -attention to the spiritual and temporal welfare of the 2nd Battalion 6th -Royal Regiment, who will long remember Mr. Gardiner as being a father to -both Roman Catholics and Protestants of the battalion while stationed at -Gibraltar. The Lord bless him and keep him, prays the author. - -The rock is about three miles long, by three quarters of a mile broad. -Its inhabitants are called "Rock Scorpions". They are composed of -English, Italians, Spaniards, Moors, and Jews. The population, exclusive -of the garrison, is about 16,500. The strip of peninsula connecting -Gibraltar with Spain is called the "Neutral Ground." - -The approaches both from the Neutral Ground and from the sea are guarded -by a great number of very powerful batteries, so that the rock may be -regarded as impregnable. Monkeys are very numerous and can be seen from -the Alameda, looking down from the rock on the soldiers at drill, and -running up and down the old Moorish Wall leading to the signal station; -some of them are very large. In visiting the company's barrack room, -when orderly sergeant, one day, the men being all out at drill, I found -a large baboon stealing the men's bread off the shelf in the barrack -room. As soon as he saw me he sprung out of the window, on to a wall -which divided the steep rock from the barracks, then stood and looked at -me. They watch the barrack rooms from this wall and when they see the -men going out to drill they enter the rooms and steal the bread. The -rock at its highest point attains an elevation of 1,440 feet above the -sea. It is perforated by numerous caverns, the largest of which is -called Saint Michael's Cave, which has an entrance about 1,000 feet -above the sea. Thence there is a descent through a succession of caves, -some ample chambers, others mere passages through which it is barely -possible to creep, to a depth of 500 feet below the entrance; at this -point the foul air has barred further ingress, but the roaring of the -sea has been distinctly heard, which leads to the inference that these -gloomy hollows have communication with the waves beneath. Large -stalactites are found in most of the caverns, and congealed stone, of -which many useful and ornamental articles are made by the soldiers and -others, such as shirt-buttons, brooches, studs and rings, with several -other useful articles. There are no springs of fresh water on the rock, -and the inhabitants are therefore compelled to depend on the heavy -rainfall, and every precaution is adopted to preserve as much of the -water as possible; large tanks are placed so as to catch the rain water -off the roofs of the houses, and conduits are made to guide the water -from the rock surface into great public reservoirs. Among the latter, -the Navy Tank, for the supply of ships coming into the port, is -conspicuous, its capacity being 11,000 tons of water. - -At present England guards this formidable rock with jealous care; every -available point of defence bristles with guns: the steep rock is -honeycombed with galleries and bombproof barracks; deep ditches with -drawbridges, steep escarps, bar all approach, and batteries are hewn in -the solid rock, frowning alike on friend or foe. The drawbridges are -closed when the evening gun fires at sun-down and are opened at sunrise -by a sergeant detailed for that duty, who is called the "key sergeant," -his post when not opening or closing the gate, is at the Convent guard, -where he keeps the keys of the fortress. There are several pleasant -walks about the rock, but perhaps the best is in the Alameda, and the -gardens situated at the south end. They are prettily laid out; a bronze -bust on a column has been erected in these gardens to the memory of -_General Elliot, its heroic defender_. Plants and different sorts of -tropical flowers, dwarf-palm, Spanish-broom, the yellow blossoms of -which are mixed with the varied colours of fuchsia,—orange and -oleanders interspersed along the beautiful walks and round the shaded -rustic seats, with the profusion and aroma of the flowers rendered it a -most charming promenade, and during the fine evenings military band -performances take place, when it is usually thronged with visitors. - -The adjacent Spanish towns of Campamiento, San Roque and Algeciras are -much resorted to by excursionists from the rock, and during the summer -months are selected by numerous families for a prolonged stay. However -little pleasure or interest a ride over this arid and sandy plain -affords, when once arrived at Campo, the rider enjoys a most charming -prospect, as there is probably no other point from which the isolated -rock appears so grand or picturesque than from this neat little village. - -During the summer of 1860, a war raged between the Queen of Spain and -the Dey of Algiers, when about five hundred women and children of the -Moorish Jews from Algiers fled to Gibraltar for protection; they were -sent to the North front where they were supplied by our authorities with -tents and rations during the war, which lasted for six months; their -husbands were kept behind to fight, and only a few old men accompanied -the women to Gibraltar. After putting in a little over four years on the -rock of Gibraltar, we embarked on the afternoon of the 25th June, 1862, -on board H.M.S. "Himalaya," which lay at the New Mole, for the island of -Corfu. As we lay at the wharf expecting to go to sea early in the -morning, Rev. Mr. Gardiner came on board about eight o'clock, to bid the -battalion a last farewell; the moon was clear and shone down with a -silver brightness on the mass of redcoats who assembled on deck to hear -Mr. Gardiner address the battalion. He stood on the quarter deck and -delivered a most eloquent and sympathetic address, which touched the -men's hearts, and drew tears from most of those strong soldiers who were -present. - -At five o'clock next morning we steamed out from the New Mole and -proceeded round Europa point, passing the pillars of Hercules, and as we -steamed out we gradually lost sight of the coast, which was beautifully -illuminated by the rising sun, affording us a last glimpse of the old -rock of Gibraltar. This magnificent transport, one of the best in Her -Majesty's service, is kept up to man-of-war fashion in discipline and -cleanliness. After a splendid voyage of five days we reached Corfu at -two o'clock in the afternoon of the 1st July, 1862. No. 5 company, -consisting of Captain Tewart, Lieutenant Hall, and Ensign Græme, myself -and four sergeants, and one hundred and sixty rank and file, were -ordered to proceed on detachment to Santa Maura, and No. 3 company to -Ithica. During the afternoon the head quarters and the companies for -Corfu disembarked, the companies for detachment stopped on board, and at -four o'clock next morning the steamer proceeded with these detachments -to their respective stations, arriving at Santa Maura about three -o'clock in the afternoon of the following day, when we disembarked, the -"Himalaya" proceeding on to Ithica with No. 3. Company. The garrison of -Santa Maura, consisted of Captain Tewart (commandant), one garrison -sergeant-major, four sergeants, and two hundred rank and file, including -the artillery; that day I was appointed garrison sergeant-major and -orderly room clerk besides. We were stationed at Santa Maura about -twelve months. One of the Austrian steamers came in every Sunday morning -with the mails from Corfu. I had to answer by seven p.m. the same day, -when the steamer returned. This was the only mail during the week. The -island of Santa Maura is separated from Greece by a broad lagoon which -abounds with wild ducks; they came in immense flocks in the evening to -feed during the night, and flew away at daylight. Many a night the -officers of the garrison put in after those ducks. After drills and -parades the men amused themselves with different games, such as cricket, -ball-playing, skittles, and pitching quoits. There was only one thing -that marred our pleasure, and that was desertion; an idea had got into -the heads of some of the worst characters to desert—Greece being close, -and only the shallow lagoon between them and freedom; a few of them, -whom we were much better without, deserted into Greece. - -We had a lance-corporal named John Smith (a Yankee), who was in charge -of a fatigue party outside the barrack gate, where he induced the six -men to desert. The alarm being given by the sentry on the battery, that -the fatigue party were escaping across the lagoon, I seized a rifle, ran -out the back gate, loading as I went along, sighting it for six hundred -yards. I fired at Smith as he was crossing the water, striking him in -the heel, knocking the boot off his left foot, leaving it behind in the -water where we found it with the bullet hole through it. After they got -into Greece they were free, and we could not touch them; they carried -the wounded man off with them. - -A man named John Nobles, who was servant to Lieutenant Hall, robbed his -master of thirty-six sovereigns and deserted into Greece. The sentry on -the battery saw him with his dog early in the morning walking on the -spit towards Greece, but did not suspect that he was going to desert as -he told the sentry that he was going to give his master's dog a run on -the spit, when he let him pass, as he was an officer's servant. About -ten o'clock in the morning, the officer missed his servant; his -suspicions being aroused he opened his cash box, and found the money -gone; he reported it to Captain Tewart, who ordered myself and a -corporal to start after Noble, the chief of police sending a policeman -as an interpreter. We scoured the country as far as Missolonghi, where -we arrived about six o'clock in the evening, and were shown great -attention, and treated well by the Tetrarch, who sent an escort of -cavalry with us next morning, besides furnishing us with horses. We -divided into three parties, each taking a different road; towards -evening we halted at a village. I put up at a respectable private house, -there being no public houses in the place; my escort were billeted on -the people of the village. It being their dinner-hour, the hostess -spread a clean white cloth on the carpet in the middle of the floor, on -this were placed a pepper-box, salt-cellar, and a roll of bread for each -person, little mats were placed round on which the dishes were placed in -succession; all sat down cross-legged round the cloth; a long narrow -strip of white linen was spread round on our knees; there were eight -persons sitting round this spread. A large soup-tureen containing a kind -of thick soup and meat stood in the centre, when we were all politely -invited to commence. They all dipped their spoons in the tureen, and -asked me to join them, but I declined by saying that "I did not like -soup just then." After soup other dishes, consisting of stewed mutton, -fish, rice, milk, vegetables and fruit were handed round; they all -helped themselves. The left hand is used to convey the food to the -mouth, the thumb and two first fingers doing the duty of forks. There is -a neatness in the Grecian way of manipulating the food that can only be -acquired by care and long practice; the thumb and two fingers alone must -touch the meat, the rest of the hand remaining perfectly clean and free -from contact with it. An amusing incident occurred, tending to increase -our merriment. Mustard, an unusual condiment on a Greek's table, was -handed round, perhaps in honour of my presence. An old lady, not knowing -what it was, took a spoonful, and before any one had time to interfere, -had swallowed it. Her face became crimson, tears ran down her cheeks, -she sneezed and appeared choking; but at last, with a supreme effort she -regained her composure and tried to look as pleasant as circumstances -would allow. It is considered a mark of great attention on the part of -the hostess, to pick the daintiest bit of food, and place it in the -mouth of any of her guests. Native wine was handed round, in small -tumblers. I managed to make an excellent dinner, being used to squatting -down to my meals in camp before Sebastopol; therefore I was not at all -awkward on this occasion. Dinner being over, the cloth was removed, when -coffee and cigarettes were handed round. Next morning we had a cup of -coffee and started off scouring the country; at last we passed through a -wood where we saw Noble's dog, and close to him was the body of Noble -covered up with a little earth. We immediately acquainted the -authorities, who held a post-mortem examination on the body. We then -searched and found the guide that accompanied him, and had him searched, -when the money was found on him, except two dollars which Noble had paid -for horse-hire for himself and his guide. When travelling along through -the wood, this Greek guide whom he hired to show him the way, murdered -him for the money, and buried him in the woods. Only for the faithful -dog we might never have found either the murdered man or the murderer. -The money was retained by the Greek authorities until after the trial. - -We then retired to Missolonghi, when I returned the Tetrarch many thanks -for the assistance he rendered us in securing the murderer and the -money. He then gave me a letter of congratulation to the Commandant, -when we returned to Santa Maura. - -The guide was tried by the Greek authorities, when, by a force of -circumstantial evidence, he was found guilty and sentenced to penal -servitude. - - -[Illustration] - - - - -[Illustration] - -CHAPTER XXVII. - - SIR HENRY STORKS—ALBANIA—VISIT NICROPOLIS—THE BRIGAND CHIEF— - TURKISH BATHS—COFFEE HOUSES—TURKISH LADIES' COSTUME—SERGEANTS' - BALL—THE ROUTE—CORFU—ROUTE—WEST INDIES—THE VOYAGE—THE - BURNING MOUNTAIN—GIBRALTAR—MADIERA—TENERIFFE—SANTA CRUZ— - CAPE DE VERDE ISLANDS—TRINIDAD—JAMAICA. - - -In the month of October, Sir Henry Storks, Lord High Commissioner of the -Ionian Islands, with his aide-de-camp, visited Santa Maura, when he -inspected the troops, barrack and fortifications, and expressed himself -highly pleased at the appearance and discipline of the troops, the -cleanliness of the barrack and the good order and thorough repair in -which the guns, shot, shell and fortifications were kept. Several of the -naval officers of H. M. S. "Icarus," in which he came from Corfu, -accompanied him on shore and invited the commandant to lunch with them -on board. In November, myself, two other sergeants, and three Greeks, -went on an excursion to Previsa, a town in Albania, seven miles across -the bay. We rowed across in a large four-oared boat. The entrance to the -harbour was indeed a pretty sight; nothing could be more romantic than -the little bay stretched out before us, the variety and beauty of the -numerous groves of olive and fruit trees along the banks, the number of -little boats gliding about on the smooth, clear, blue waters, and small -vessels cruising from one island to another, with the tall minarets -towering high above the numerous white houses, making up as charming a -picture as could be imagined. On landing we were surprised to see the -appearance of the town. A few of the houses are good, substantial -buildings and comparatively clean and comfortable; but the rest of the -town had a dirty and slovenly appearance. The streets are narrow and -crooked, the shops are little recesses from six to eight feet deep, -without windows; they close with folding doors, which are thrown open -during business hours. Here the occupant sits, sells, works and carries -on almost every conceivable kind of business. In one of these places you -can see a dry-goods merchant with his stock stored in a little space not -more than eight feet square: The floor is elevated two steps above the -street and the tradesman sits behind a little counter. The customers -stand at the open front and all the business is done in the street; -every one sits down, the merchant sits at his shop, the mechanic at his -work. - -It is amusing to see what ingenuity they exercise in getting everything -within their reach, that they may not change their position. After we -had walked through several streets we visited the barrack, where the -guard turned out, and the sentries presented arms as we passed their -posts; we supposed that they did not know our rank or else they never -would have presented arms, but we were neatly dressed in our uniform and -swords, and we supposed they took us for commissioned officers. One of -the Turkish officers accompanied us around the barracks and showed us -through the hospital. Oh! what a contrast between British soldiers' -barracks and hospitals and the Turkish, the latter are dirty and the men -dirty, squatting round the rooms and lounging on their little, -dirty-looking beds, and the hospital was even worse; the smell was -intolerable, the boards black and greasy, in fact everything was filthy -and smelled strongly of oil and garlic. - -We thanked the officer and left the barracks. - -One of the Greeks who accompanied us took us to a friend's house where -we had luncheon, which consisted of rolls of brown bread, cheese, salad, -cakes and coffee; after which we hired six Turkish ponies and started -off to visit the ruins of the ancient city of Nicropolis. A ride of -fifteen miles in an easterly direction from Previsa, was soon passed in -pleasant and cheerful company; the beauty of the groves, the luxurious -vegetation, the mild and balmy air, all conspired to add to the pleasure -of the ride; and now we are approaching the ancient city. What do we -see? Before us immense ruins for miles around, old walls towering high -in the air, wide enough to drive a coach and four on their top, with -high-arched doorways. A large amphitheatre with massive stone seats, -encircled by a colossal wall, surmounted with ancient looking figures in -marble, half man, half beast. - -After visiting a great many of these wonderful old ruins and learning -all we could of their ancient history from our guide, who was well -informed and could make himself understood in English,—at his -suggestion we took a detour to visit some robbers' caves, which he said -were worth seeing. - -One of the wild, deep passes through which he led us is celebrated as -the scene of the exploits of a robber chieftain, named Abdallah Niebhr. -No one could go through this narrow pass without his sanction. The -solitary pedestrian as well as the grand carriage were alike the object -of his plunder. The whole country stood in fear of him; travellers -trembled at his name; a pasha on one occasion, attempting to pass here -with his retinue, was shot dead by this daring bandit. For over forty -years he contrived to elude capture and prosecuted his career of -bloodshed, plunder, and crime. At last he and his accomplices fell into -the hands of the Turkish authorities and were sent to Constantinople. -The passage is now safe and has been for many years, but the remembrance -of these bloody atrocities often sends a thrill of terror through the -heart of the timid traveller. Continuing our journey through olive -groves, we arrived at our friend's house at seven o'clock, and had just -time for a bath before dinner. This refreshed us after our journey in -the hot sun and also increased our appetites to relish the dish of lamb, -roasted whole, and stuffed with rice and pestacheos, besides other -trimmings, consisting of rolls of brown bread, eggs fried in butter, -cheese, garlic and oil, fruit and vegetables. Dinner being over, coffee -was handed round, and at ten o'clock we retired to rest. After a good -night's rest we were up early and had a Turkish bath. This is by far the -best fitted and most useful part of the whole establishment. It -comprises a suite of three rooms, the first is a square apartment, -chiefly constructed of marble, and terminating in a cupola studded with -little panes of glass through which the light enters; a deep reservoir -attached to the outer wall, with an opening which is heated by a furnace -built under it, a number of pipes attached to the furnace circulate -through the walls of the bath and throw great heat into it. A graceful -fountain conducts the water from the reservoir, and on each side of the -fountain is a low wooden platform which serves as a seat for bathers, -who sit cross-legged, and undergo a long and complicated process of -washing and scrubbing. The second room is called the Touklouk, is -constructed very much in the same style, but is smaller and has no -furniture but a marble platform upon which mattresses and cushions are -placed for the use of those who wish to repose between intervals of -bathing, or do not wish to face the cooler temperature of the Hamman -(the first room). This room is furnished with sofas, on which the -bathers rest and dress after quitting the bath. Turkish women are very -fond of this bath, and capable of remaining for hours together in that -hot and depressing atmosphere. They smoke cigarettes, eat fruit and -sweets, and drink sherbet; and finally, after all the blood has rushed -to their heads and their faces are crimson, they wrap themselves in soft -garments and pass into a third or outer chamber, where they repose on a -luxurious couch until their system shakes off part of the heat and -languor that these baths produce. A bath being an indispensable -appendage to every house, one is to be found in every Turkish dwelling. - -The outer bath-room is a large stone building, lighted by a cupola, with -wooden platforms running all round, upon which small mattresses and -couches are spread for the men. A fountain of cold water stands in the -outer hall of the public baths. Coffee houses are to be met with -everywhere, and are very numerous in the towns. The Albanians resort to -them when they leave their home early in the morning to take a cup of -coffee and smoke a nargile before going to business. In the evening they -step in to have a chat with their neighbours and hear the news of the -day. Turkish newspapers are becoming common of late in these -coffee-houses, and are to be found in all of them. Few of these -establishments possess an inviting exterior or can boast any -arrangements with regard to comfort or accommodation; a few mats are -placed round on a raised seat, and some low stools for strangers; small -gardens are attached to some, where the Turk may be seen sitting -cross-legged and smoking his tchibouk, while others atone for the -deficiencies of their interior by the lovely situation they occupy in -this picturesque and luxurious land. What a Turk heartily enjoys is his -tchibouk and coffee, sitting by the side of a running stream, or in some -spot commanding a fine view. This quiescent pleasure he calls "taking -kaif" (comfort): on the whole his capacity for enjoyment is rather of a -passive than an active kind, The costume worn by ladies consists of a -gown of cloth or damask silk, with a border of similar workmanship; -opening upon the breast, it displays a handsome white silk gauze frill -round the neck; the sleeves hang loosely at the wrists, covered by a -velvet jacket, richly worked with gold thread: indoors they wear a red -cap covered with pearls and precious stones; the slippers are equally -adorned with embroidery and jewels according to the rank of the lady. -The yashmak (veil), and feridji (cloak), are universally worn by Turkish -women of all classes out of doors. The former varies according to the -rank and place of residence of the wearers, from ordinary calico to the -finest tarlatan, while the latter may be of almost any colour or -material, but green is the prevailing colour; the trowsers of red silk -hanging loosely over a high-heeled and neat fitting yellow morroco boot, -which wrinkles over the ancle. As we were standing in the consul's -office getting our passports vized, Sergeant Parkinson's rifle was -accidently discharged, the bullet passing through the ceiling over the -office. The consul's lady had a narrow escape, for the bullet passed -through her dress. After paying the consul fifty cents each for having -our passports vized, and thanking our friend for the attention shown us -while at his house, we departed, rowing back to Santa Maura, where we -arrived at nine o'clock in the evening, after enjoying three days' -pleasure which will be long remembered by us. - -At Christmas the sergeants gave a ball, and issued invitations to -several friends and a few civilians. Dancing commenced at eight o'clock -and kept up with "esprit" till twelve, when supper was announced, after -which the president proposed the health of the Queen which was drunk -with a right royal good will, the band playing the National Anthem, and -afterwards toasts, songs and speeches were indulged in by many round the -board; when dancing was again resumed, and kept up till the small hours -of the morning. - -On the 9th May, 1863, we were relieved at Santa Maura by a detachment of -the 9th Regiment, the "Holy Boys," who arrived from Corfu in the -morning, by steamer, and we embarked on the same steamer in the -afternoon for Corfu, arriving there by five o'clock next morning, when -we were ordered on detachment at Vedo, a small island close to Corfu, -but a strong fortification commanded by Colonel Sankey, of the 9th -Regiment, where garrison duty and field days were frequent. - -On the 6th November, the British government agreed to give up the Ionian -islands to the Greeks. On the 1st of January, 1864, Colonel Hobbs took -command of the 2nd Battalion 6th Royal Regiment, vice Colonel Fraser, -and on the same day we commenced to blow up the forts, before giving up -the island to the Greeks. In Vedo, the lunette and keep were blown up by -the end of January, and Fort Neuf and the citadel were all demolished by -the 1st of March, 1864. - -On the 4th of March, 1864, the 2nd Battalion 6th Royal Regiment embarked -on board of H. M. S. "Orontes," for Jamaica, in the West Indies. At two -o'clock in the afternoon we steamed out of the harbour and bid farewell -to the Ionian islands. The weather was fine and clear, the water blue -and smooth; our ship glided onwards at the rate of ten knots an hour, -soon leaving the land far behind. In the evening the moon shone forth in -all her glory and brightness on the face of the smooth blue waters of -the Mediterranean. - -On the evening of the third day we sighted Mount Etna, raising its fiery -summit towards the sky, and sending up volumes of fire and smoke as it -were among the stars, illuminating the country for miles round. Many of -us stopped on deck till a late hour watching this grand phenomenon. - -On the morning of the 10th of March, we arrived at Gibraltar, and moored -alongside the New Mole. Here the regiment disembarked and encamped on -the New Mole for a week, with a view to the health of the troops, during -which time the ship coaled, cleaned, and was fumigated. At the same time -the troops got their linen washed, and everything clean and ready for -the long voyage to the West Indies. - -On the 17th of March we again embarked, and in the afternoon moved out -from our moorings and proceeded round the New Mole, and passed -Bona-vista Barrack, when we bid a last farewell to the old rock of -Gibraltar, and, as the day was well advanced, hastened on so as to pass -through the straits before dark. Early next morning we passed the -southerly point of Europe, and as we steamed on we gradually lost sight -of the land, which was beautifully illuminated by the rising sun, -affording us a faint view of the sun-scorched peaks of the African -coast. The weather was delightful, with scarce a ripple on the water. - -On the morning of the 21st of March we passed close to the beautiful -island of Madeira. The first impressions of this island are delightful -and striking, with its luxurious gardens smiling with gorgeous flowers, -and its mountain sides cultivated almost to their summits with beautiful -plants. Nature exhibits herself here with such varied charms that -imagination can scarcely picture a lovelier scene. - -The product which has made the name of Madeira famous and familiar is -its wine, now produced in great quantities; this and the cultivation of -the sugar-cane form its principal trade. At twelve o'clock we passed the -Desertas, a group of barren rocks. These rocks appear to be only -frequented by fishermen. One of these isles is a high pyramidical rock -which at a distance very much resemble a sail. - -March 23rd. At daylight the brilliant light on Cape Teneriffe was -descried ahead. We ran in for the land, and the high precipitous rocks, -all bleak and bare, here and there broken by deep and rugged clefts, -rose in bold outline before us. Somewhat later, as the clouds cleared -away, the celebrated Peak was in sight, a grand and solitary object -towering to the clouds in seeming desolation; for, although there is a -certain amount of fertility on its sides, it was not apparent as we -approached it. By eight o'clock we ran into the wharf at Santa Cruz, -and, after a visit from the health officer, all were free for a run on -shore while the ship was coaling. There is little at Santa Cruz itself -to interest the stranger. The houses are poor structures, the streets -are narrow, but they are kept very clean; there are no public buildings -with any pretensions to taste or elegance. Nevertheless, one is repaid -for a stroll in the country, where the scenery is remarkably wild and -impressive—deep ravines, from which bold rocks, rise abruptly, void of -every trace of vegetation except a few cacti and other hardy plants. - -There is a sort of wondrous grandeur in this volcanic scenery—in the -scorched craters of these enormous rocks, ribbed at the sides, no traces -of life, no appearance of vegetation—all is arid, dry, and parched, -while away to the southward can just be discerned a fine picture of -woodland scenery, arresting the eye at once by its great contrast, and, -as it were, compelling one to admire the extreme beauty afforded by the -charming landscape. Here and there were noticed inclosures of cacti, -used in rearing the cochineal, which with the castor-oil plant, appears -to be largely cultivated for exportation. I and two sergeants, with our -wives, entered a saloon to take refreshments, as well as to learn the -custom and habits of the people. During the time we were enjoying the -lunch, we heard the landlady say to her husband in Spanish, "charge them -English well, they have plenty of money," fortunately one of the -sergeant's wives, being a Spaniard, understood what was said, when they -had a most amusing row in the Spanish language, the landlady coming off -second best; she did not get as much out of us as she had anticipated. -Santa Cruz boasts of a very ancient and time-worn cathedral, which we -visited. It was here that Nelson (1797) undertook an expedition against -Teneriffe, which although unsuccessful and disastrous, displayed great -heroism and bravery. The two flags captured on this occasion are -retained in this old cathedral, and the inhabitants still bear in mind -the attack and repulse. Here the immortal Nelson lost his arm, and it -was the only affair in which he was unsuccessful. - -Toward evening we left the harbour of Santa Cruz, the bright moon-light -affording us a capital view of the Peak, which frowned upon us in all -its grandeur, its head hoary with many a winters snow. A fine favouring -breeze was with us all night; at dawn of the following morning the -island of Teneriffe was looming far behind us on the distant horizon. -From the present may be said to commence our dreary, monotonous, long -voyage, from the pillars of Hercules in the east across the broad -Atlantic to the West Indies. Life on board ship and the varied incidents -at sea, all tend to rouse feelings and sensations which are reserved -alone for those whose business is on the great waters. To the officers -and soldiers—as well as the ladies, the routine on board ship, -especially of this splendid transport, was entirely different from that -they had hitherto enjoyed on shore. Fortunately the varied scenes were -under most favourable circumstances as regards the weather. At first the -usages of naval, every-day life seemed particularly vexatious, and -annoying, when so many human beings were packed so closely into such a -small space; but after a few days, when sea-sickness had been got over, -one and all perceived, to a certain extent, the necessity of order, -cleanliness, and good discipline. Scrubbing, washing and holystoning the -decks, cleaning brass and wood work, the troops parading, watches -assembling, sailors mustering at quarters and divisions, are all -measures which tend to enforce the discipline so essential to good -government. Existence in the limited space of a ship, with so many -troops on board, for weeks completely isolated from the outer world, is -so peculiar and interesting to those unacquainted with the sea, that I -may be permitted to make a few remarks as to our daily routine. From the -hour of four o'clock in the morning, as soon as the watch has been -mustered, bustle and activity begin, lasting throughout the day, and -even to the hour when the night reminds one of sleep; pumps are manned, -water is splashed over the decks in all directions, yet it is absolutely -essential to the preservation of the health and comfort of the troops -and those on board. By six o'clock the washing is nearly finished, when -all the hammocks are piped up and stowed. It is now time for breakfast, -consisting of cocoa and biscuit. The men then prepare and dress for -parade at ten o'clock, which lasts for about an hour. At noon the dinner -bugle sounds, and although consisting as it invariably does, of either -salt junk or plum duff, or salt pork and pea-soup, there are few men -healthier than soldiers while on board ship. Grog time comes next (when -half a gill of rum, lime juice, with two pints of water are supplied to -each man), and with the hour of smoking, constitutes a pleasant break in -the day. During the afternoon the band plays on the quarter deck, and -the men sit around in groups, singing, dancing, and all sorts of amusing -games, until four o'clock, when the sailors assemble at their stations -with rifle, cutlass, and pistol for inspection by their divisional -officers. The inspection over, the sailors resume their work to make or -furl sail, according to the wind. Supper is now prepared, consisting of -tea and biscuit, after which, at eight o'clock, smoking is permitted, -but not between decks, hammocks having been piped down at 7.30. - -The orderly officers always go the rounds of the decks, to ascertain -that all is correct, when those off watch are expected to turn into -their hammocks; and so ends the day and its duties. This was the routine -every day during the whole voyage. - -At six o'clock p.m., the officers, both naval and military, usually dine -together, when the incidents of the day, and the progress of the ship, -and other matters which are sure to turn up, form a lively -conversational hour, during which time the band plays. After dinner the -assembly of smokers usually muster on deck where all sorts of yarns and -topics engross the attention until bed-time. Sunday alone seems to break -the monotony and routine of every day life at sea; when after divine -service at ten o'clock, the remainder of the day is usually spent in -reading or sleeping. - -On the morning of March 31st, we sighted Cape de Verde Islands, and by -two in the afternoon we took in coal at Port Grand, St. Vincent; here we -had a good view of African negroes, who coaled our ship with baskets -which they carried on their heads. They were very tall and powerfully -built men, with no clothing except a little round their loins. What a -contrast in the scenery between this place and Madeira! Here are barren -rocks, and not the faintest indication of vegetation to be seen in any -direction, although its formation is somewhat similar. - -The town, if it can be so named, consists of a few straggling houses and -the stores of the coal contractors, situated along the shore, while -stretching away behind are several high, rough and jagged peaks and -mountains, affording a fine background for the barren and uninteresting -coast scenery. - -Next day, at eight o'clock, we reached Santiago, another island of the -same group; here we stayed for two or three hours. The houses, with a -few exceptions, were poor specimens of habitations, nearly all built of -stone, and one story high. The interiors present only a few articles of -absolute necessity; of home comfort or cleanliness, in our sense of the -word, they seem to have no idea. - -The population appear to be made up of an intermixture of Portuguese -settlers and negroes, who cultivate little patches of land in the -valleys where are produced a few tropical fruits. - -During the voyage our drum-major and a private fell down the hatch-way; -the soldier was killed and the drum-major severely injured, so much so -that it laid him up for ever afterwards. - -After parade next morning the bell tolled, and the regiment were present -to pay their last tribute to their comrade. The ship's captain read the -beautiful and appropriate service for a burial at sea, and on reaching -that portion, "we commit his body to the deep," it was slid out of the -port, wrapped in a hammock, with a round shot at its feet, into the -bright, blue, deep sea, to be seen no more until that day when the sea -shall give up its dead. - -On the 12th we cast anchor in the harbour of Trinidad, where two -companies were landed on detachment. The town has no pretensions to size -or elegance, it is, however, most picturesquely situated along the shore -of the island, backed up by a curiously shaped hill with a large pitch -lake on its summit. This is a very important port of the West Indies, -particularly for the mail service, some eight or ten different lines -reaching here monthly. - -At four o'clock in the evening we left the anchorage under sail and -steam, with a fresh evening breeze, running along at twelve knots an -hour. On the 18th April, 1864, at 7 o'clock, a.m., the island of Jamaica -was in sight. At nine o'clock we took a pilot on board to navigate the -vessel through the intricate and dangerous narrows between the reefs. As -the ship approached and rounded Port Royal, we cast anchor in Kingston -harbour at eleven a.m. As we lay at anchor, the sight was indeed -beautiful, the city with its white houses peeping out from amongst the -dark green foliage; with Newcastle looming up in the distance with its -white wooden barracks, on the side of St. Catharine's peak, with its -lofty summit towering towards the heavens, the mountain covered with -forests of mahogany, cedar, yellow sander and coffee plantations, and -the valley covered with large green plantations of sugar-cane. Nature -was indeed looking charming; the view in every direction was -exquisite,—look where we would there were nature's beauties before us. -The entrance to the harbour at the end of Port Royal, broken into little -islands, where tradition says a town was submerged by an earthquake, the -sparkling sea running here and there into creeks, bays and inlets, -together with the evergreen foliage of tropical trees and flowers, made -up a very attractive landscape, which gave us a most favourable -impression of Jamaica. Directly in front of us are the landing-place and -jetties, where several vessels are flying the flag of Old England. - -At four o'clock in the afternoon we disembarked and formed on the quay, -where we were surrounded by a conglomeration of the inhabitants of all -shades of colour. After detailing two companies for detachment, one at -Port Royal and the other at Uppark Camp, we marched off to Newcastle, a -distance of 18 miles, seven of which were up a steep, mountain, zigzag -foot-path. The weather being so hot we did not attempt to march during -the heat of the day. The word being given, we marched off with the band -playing, followed through the streets by a motley crowd of negroes, -mulattoes, and creoles, raising a cloud of sand and dust as we advanced. -After a very fatiguing march of ten miles we halted at a place called -the gardens, where we piled arms and rested for two hours, resuming our -journey at one o'clock in the morning, up a mountain road which tried -many of our best marchers, arriving at Newcastle barrack at sun-rise, -very much fatigued after the march during the close, warm night. But as -we marched up the mountain the wild scenery surpassed anything that I -have yet seen, and compensated somewhat for the fatiguing march;—the -mountain side clothed with the loveliest tropical fruits, hanging over -our heads as we stooped under them by the way, bananas, mangoes, -tamarinds, pine-apples, pomegranates, bread-fruits, oranges, lemons, -coffee and sugar-cane; while the air was perfumed with the aroma of the -sweet smelling rose-trees, oleanders, fuchsias, myrtles, ferns, and -odoriferous magnolias, with the deep gullies at our feet where the -sparkling waters jump and foam as they rush in torrents down the steep -rocks, towards their ocean home. - -One must travel a long way indeed before he meets with prettier scenery -or a place that will surpass in fragrance and loveliness the floral -beauty and picturesque landscapes of this island. - - - - -[Illustration] - -CHAPTER XXVIII. - - JAMAICA—THE EXHIBITION—MARKET—REBELLION—THE COMMISSION—COL. - HOBBS—THE VOYAGE—ROUTE—VOYAGE—QUEEN'S BIRTHDAY—EDINBURGH— - CARLTON HILL—TOLBOOTH—QUEEN MARY'S ROOM—DUNOON—DISCHARGED— - DALKEITH—GLASGOW—EMBARK FOR CANADA—THE VOYAGE—ARRIVAL— - MONTREAL—KINGSTON—PICTON—THE DUNKIN BILL—THE MARQUIS OF LORNE. - - -The barracks or camp were situated on a high ridge of St. Catharine's -mountain, called Newcastle, famous for its exhilarating, pure air, with -immensely deep gullies on each side; each wooden hut built on terraces, -one above the other, consists of one room. The officers' quarters were -neat little isolated cottages, surrounded with lovely flowers, trees, -and shrubs. The parade ground was a large terrace which had been -excavated and levelled with a nice mound round its lower edge, forming a -promenade as well as a drill ground. We had one large wooden building -where divine service was held by all denominations in their turn; it -also served as a schoolhouse and lecture hall. The married sergeants' -quarters were distributed on each side of the ridge, in separate little -cottages, with flower gardens to each. The means by which the troops -were supplied with water was a novel and most clever proof of our -engineer's skill. From the upper end or source of the gully stream, -which was many feet above the barracks, the water was conducted along -the brow of the ridge by means of a large trough of bamboos resting on -trestles, passing into a large reservoir situated a little above the -barracks, from which pipes conducted the water to the respective -quarters and rooms. Before this improvement, the water had to be carried -from the bottom of the gulley in large leather bags by donkeys, and was -doled out to the troops daily. Above the barracks on a flat side of the -mountain, Col. Hobbs apportioned a garden for each company, which we -reclaimed and cultivated, raising almost all sorts of vegetables, viz: -yams, cocoas, sweet potatoes, cauliflowers, cabbages, potatoes, celery, -lettuces, &c., besides pineapples and strawberries, with a variety of -lovely flowers. - -Many of the officers and most of the colour sergeants kept horses. Being -the wine and mess sergeant to the officers, I had the privilege of -keeping four horses, which I frequently hired out to the officers. These -horses enabled us to travel through the mountainous country for many -miles. - -On Christmas eve of 1864, one of our much respected comrades, Qr.-M. -Sergeant Thomas Bellinton, died of heart disease, much regretted by the -battalion, leaving a wife and three small children to mourn his untimely -end. - -In the beginning of 1865, Colonel Elkington was appointed Deputy -Adjutant-General at Kingston. During the summer we had an exhibition in -the hall, of fancy, useful, and ornamental articles, manufactured by the -soldiers of the battalion; and the number of articles, as well as the -skill manifested in their manufacture, was very much admired by the -visitors from the City of Kingston and the surrounding country. Among -some of the distinguished visitors present, whose names the author -entered in his note book, were, Governor Eyre and lady, General O'Connor -and lady, Deputy Adjutant-General Lieutenant-Colonel Elkington and lady, -and others. Some of the articles on exhibition were wonderfully good, -and sold at a high price. A Lancashire weaver made a miniature loom out -of the bones which he saved from time to time, and wove a miniature web -of fine texture on it to the amusement of those present. This was bought -for fifteen pounds. William Sugden, a carpenter, made a model of the -cantonment of Newcastle, which was sold to Rev. Mr. Fife for fifteen -pounds. Henry Foreman, made a model battery from bone—sold for ten -pounds; Corporal Gilchrist, a bed quilt, sold for nine pounds. Other -articles, such as fancy work-boxes, shirt buttons, and several articles -of furniture and wearing apparel, too numerous to mention, were -exhibited and sold. In June, 1865, Sergeant James Rance, Officers' Mess -Sergeant, died of heart disease, leaving a wife and four children to -mourn his loss. I, being the senior Colour-Sergeant in the Battalion, -was chosen and appointed to the vacancy caused by his death. -Sergeant-Major Robert Hyde was promoted to Quarter-Master, and -Colour-Sergeant Neale appointed Sergeant-Major in his place. - -We had a market every Wednesday and Saturday round the canteen, when the -negroes from the country brought in all sorts of produce, some on -donkeys, but most on their heads. A line of black women might be seen on -those days, very early in the morning, coming to market along the narrow -mountain path, with baskets of yams, cocoas, plantains, bananas, -pine-apples, mangoes, oranges, lemons, bread-fruit and pomegranates, -besides provisions in abundance. These people come miles with their -loads, and barefooted, their clothes tucked up to their knees by a -handkerchief tied round a little below the hips, securing them in -graceful folds, with a light, gay handkerchief on their heads. They wear -light, showy garments, and are very fond of any common jewellery, which -they wear in their ears and on their fingers. - -We were enjoying every comfort in this delightful station, when we were -aroused by a report that the negroes had broken out in open rebellion at -Morant Bay. It appeared, from what we could learn afterwards, that a -local preacher, named George W. Gordon, had been for some time urging -the black population of Saint-Thomas-in-the-east to rise in rebellion -against the Government, telling them there were back lands which they -could get, and urging them to pay him money for the purpose of -agitation. This, it is said, was the doctrine he preached in his chapel. -And a few compatriots of his named Paul Bogle, William Bogle, William -Burie, James Burie, and others, were engaged in swearing in, drilling, -and organizing forces in order to attack the white population, when at -dinner on Christmas night, kill them, and take their wives. But an -accident occurred which fortunately, nay, providentially, brought this -base conspiracy to light. - -On the 7th October, 1865, which was Saturday, and market day at Morant -Bay, a Court of Petty Sessions was held in that town. A man who had been -convicted by the court for some crime, afterwards interrupted the -proceedings of the court, and when the police endeavoured to arrest him, -he was rescued from their hands by the mob. For this act, warrants were -issued against two ringleaders named Bogle, and several others. - -On Tuesday, the 10th, six or eight policemen and some constables -proceeded to Stony Gut to execute the warrants; they found Paul Bogle, -who, after the warrant for his apprehension had been read to him, told -them that he would not go with them. When they proceeded to arrest him, -he cried "Help here!" and immediately a body of men, from four to six -hundred in number, rushed out from Bogle's chapel and attacked the -police; these men were armed with muskets, pistols, cutlasses, pikes, -sticks and stones. The police were overpowered and severely wounded by -the mob. In the meantime information of this rising was at once sent to -the custos, Baron Yon Ketelhodt, who applied to the governor for -military aid. - -On the 11th, a meeting was held at Morant Bay, at twelve o'clock, and -proceeded with its business till about four, when it was disturbed by -the noise of a large crowd approaching, a few volunteers were drawn up -outside the Court House; the crowd advanced; the Riot Act was read by a -magistrate, when stones were thrown at the volunteers, who fired at the -mob and retired into the Court House, when the infuriated rebels -surrounded the Court House and set fire to it. The inmates were then -compelled to leave the building, and endeavoured to conceal themselves; -some fled with their families into the woods, but others were dragged -from their houses and hiding places and beaten to death; some left for -dead on the ground. Women and children fled for their lives into the -woods, and there remained for days and nights without food or shelter, -while their husbands were left murdered. The mob gained strength daily, -murdering every white man they came across. They attacked houses and -villages, and numbers of white inhabitants were killed and brutally -treated. At Farrington they halted and organized in military order, -prepared to resist the authorities, and any force that might be brought -against them. On the 21st October, the Maroons marched out to meet them, -when a sharp skirmish ensued; eventually the Maroons got the best of it, -when the rebels flew. The letter of Baron Von Ketelhodt, written on the -10th October, requesting military aid was taken by the authorities into -immediate consideration, and within twenty-four hours' of its receipt -the 2nd Battalion 6th Regiment was on the march to Morant Bay, where -troops were also landed from Spanish Town, and martial law was -proclaimed in the affected district. After the troops had arrived, they -took many of the rebels and had them tried and executed or flogged, -according to the nature and degree of the offence. George Wm. Gordon was -arrested on the 17th and placed on board H.M.S. "Wolverine," and -conveyed to Morant Bay, where he was tried by a court martial on the -20th, and on the 21st found guilty and executed on the charge of high -treason against Her Majesty Queen Victoria. Paul Bogle was apprehended -on the 23rd, and on the 24th was conveyed a prisoner to Morant Bay, -where he was tried and executed with other leaders. Had it not been for -the prompt and stringent measures resorted to by Governor Eyre in -crushing this rebellion, before it had assumed its intended magnitude, -no one can tell how much more innocent blood of Her Majesty's subjects -would have been spilled by the semi-savage rebels, urged on by the -preacher. As it was, they murdered Baron Von Ketelhodt and other -justices of the peace, altogether they killed and wounded fifty-six -white people. These details disclosed the worst features of the negro -character, but when white men urge them on they are guilty of the -greatest sin. The merciless beating to death, the mutilation of the -living and the dead, the delight in blood and murder, tell how the -spirit of the savage still lurks in the hearts of many of the black -population of Jamaica. The promptness and decision with which Governor -Eyre quelled this rebellion, deserved the approbation and consideration -of the Government. Instead of which, however, he was censured by -partisans. The social circle in England were divided, and controversy -began to rage on the question. In order to satisfy the public, and -settle the question, the Crown issued a commission of inquiry. - -On the 30th December the commission issued to Sir Henry Storks, William -R. Gurney, Q.C., and Mr. J. B. Maul, requiring them to make full inquiry -into the "origin, nature, and circumstances of the disturbances, and -respecting the means adopted in the course of the suppression of the -same, and respecting the conduct of those concerned in such disturbances -or suppression." The gentlemen selected were a sufficient guarantee to -the public that the inquiry would be what it was wished it should -be,—full, searching, and impartial. - -The Commission was opened at Kingston, Jamaica, on January 23rd, 1866, -and closed its prolonged sittings on March 25th. The Commissioners have -discharged their duties with extraordinary industry, and with the -ability and impartiality which were to be expected of them. They arrived -at the conclusion that there was on the part of the leaders of the -rioters a preconcerted plan, and that murder was "distinctly -contemplated." They nevertheless find that there was no general -conspiracy against the Government, and the inference is, that the riot, -though of considerable magnitude and danger, was not the result of any -very long standing organization, and that it was foolish, barbarous, and -wicked in its origin, although of a local character. - -Those who wish to know more about the question can find it by a search, -with moderate diligence, in the blue books, or the pigeon-holes of the -war-office. What I assert here is from my own knowledge and experience, -being present during the affair. - -Sir Henry Storks was the guest of the officers of the 6th Royal -Regiment, for several days after the inquiry was finished. After the -insurrection, the Maroons were entertained in the city hall, as a mark -of their approbation and gratitude for the manner in which they assisted -in quelling the rebellion. - -At the end of January, Colonel Hobbs took ill, and got deranged in his -mind, when he was placed in the sanitarium under surveillance. In -February he was sent to England, accompanied by his wife and family, -with two hospital orderlies, to guard and tend him. During the voyage, -watching an opportunity when walking the deck, he jumped head first down -the ash shoot. The ship hove to at once, boats were lowered to try and -rescue him, but he could not be found; he sank to rise no more till that -day when the sea shall give up its dead. The regiment was deeply -affected at this sad intelligence. He was very much respected by all -classes, and his loss to the regiment was much deplored. - -In the summer of 1866, the Marquis of Lorne (now Governor-General of -Canada) visited Jamaica, when he and his tutor were guests of the -officers of the 6th Regiment, at Newcastle. He was tall and slight, and -very intelligent, with fair hair, and about eighteen years old. During -the three years we were in Jamaica, we had one officer (Ensign Newman) -and three privates die with yellow fever. - -On the 24th March Her Majesty's Ship "Tamar" arrived at Kingston Harbour -with the 84th Regiment, to relieve the 2nd Battalion 6th Regiment. On -the 25th we marched from Newcastle to Uppark Camp, and there remained -until the 1st April, 1867, when we embarked on board the "Tamar" for -Cork. At 2 p.m., we weighed anchor and steamed out of harbour, rounding -Port Royal, homeward bound; when well clear from the land we picked up -the trade winds and ran on merrily through the Tropics towards the -Azores, at the rate of twelve knots an hour, full of the hope of -speedily seeing the coast of Ireland. - -In the afternoon the band played on the quarter-deck, and every facility -was given to the men to enjoy themselves by the gentlemanly commander, -Captain Sullivan. - -The evening of the 6th May, a bright light at Queenstown harbour was -seen, and the next morning we entered the port and cast anchor off -Queenstown, where we hoped to land. But we were too sanguine; for after -the mails were brought on board, a large official document was received, -directing the regiment to proceed to Edinburgh, there to be stationed. -After a short stay, we weighed anchor and steamed out of the harbour, -but not before we got a supply of good fresh bread and beautiful Irish -butter, which appeared to us most delicious after the hard tack and salt -pork we were so tired of during the voyage. Next morning, amidst haze -and fog, we had our first sight of the English coast, as we passed up -channel amidst a very maze of shipping, outward and homeward bound. -Onward we go, sighting the old familiar headland and land-marks, the -Eddystone light, the Start, the white cliffs of Portland and Saint -Alban's Head, until at the last the Needles were in sight. After a few -hours' steaming through the Solent, we reached Portsmouth harbour and -moored alongside the famous old "Camperdown," where we took in coal, and -afterwards steamed out of the harbour and steered our course for -Scotland. - -On the 9th of May, 1867, we cast anchor in the Firth of Forth, after a -delightful voyage of 40 days. During the passage many events took place, -which, although trivial in themselves, contributed to render the voyage -less tedious and monotonous; occasionally we spoke or sighted a vessel, -but what seemed to impart an extra interest to our every-day life, when -clear of the Tropics, was the vast number of sea birds constantly -accompanying us, probably attracted by the numerous fragments of -provisions thrown overboard, cape pigeons, those prettily marked birds -about the size of doves; the majestic albatross, stormy petrels of all -sizes, followed on in motley groups, never seeming to weary in their -search for food. These birds appear to possess remarkable capacity for -remembering the exact time when they are likely to get a feed, for day -after day, soon after noon, the vicinity of the vessel was usually -animated with their shrill shrieking and fighting with each other for -the dainty morsels thrown overboard. - -At ten o'clock, a.m., we disembarked at Leith Pier and marched to -Edinburgh Castle, "Modern Athens," amid a crowd of citizens, the band -playing "Blue Bonnets o'er the Border," and other popular Scottish airs, -during the march through the city to the castle, where we were to be -quartered; then the usual bustle of taking over barracks, bed-filling, -&c., was gone through. Edinburgh is a very small garrison, there being -only guards to furnish, viz.: The Castle, Holyrood Palace, and Jock's -Lodge. The forces consisted of the 2nd Battalion 6th Regiment and the -14th Light Dragoons. On arrival, the men had a good sum of ship's -clearance to draw, and being flush with money, made it lively for the -police about the Canongate and Dawn Market, so much so that the police -undertook to take some of them to the station-house. This the soldiers -strongly objected to, when a fight ensued; the police got the worst of -it, and the soldiers were rescued. Afterwards they never attempted to -take any of our men prisoners, instead of which they reported them at -the orderly room, when the offenders were punished by the commanding -officer. During the twelve months which the 2nd Battalion 6th Royal -Regiment was stationed in Edinburgh, the officers were delighted with -the society, which is regarded as unusually polished, from the -predominance of the professional and literary elements in its -composition. This arises partly from its being a university town, and -partly from the presence of the Supreme Law Courts of Scotland, all the -important legal business being attracted thither on that account; the -lawyers have charge of most estates throughout the country, so that -there are an unusual number of lawyers and accountants; its medical -practitioners, surgeons and physicians have a high reputation. It is -much resorted to for the sake of education, for its universities and -medical schools, its high schools and its numerous private schools. For -the poorer classes, part of the enormous funds of "Heriot's Charity" -have been diverted for cheaper schools throughout the city. It is -largely resorted to by visitors to the Highlands of Scotland, and has an -unusual number of well appointed hotels. - -There are four theatres and abundance of amusements, including an -open-air gymnasium, open to the public daily, admission sixpence. In the -southern environs are fine, open fields, where the game "Golf" has been -played from time immemorial. Excellent street-cabs are to be found, and -street cars run on all the principal streets, and to the suburbs. From -the castle, which crowns the highest point in the city, a splendid view -of Edinburgh and the surrounding country can be obtained. The old town -clustering along the heights, extends gradually along the top and sides -of the ridge which slopes downwards to the east. For some centuries the -city was confined entirely to this ridge, and was flanked on the north -by a marsh called the Nor' Loch. The Calton Hill offers to the view a -wide-spreading panorama, with the Leaning Tower away in the distance -towards Granton Pier. At our feet are the smoking chimneys of "Auld -Reekie," from which we gladly turn our eyes to the blue waters and the -shores of Fife coast, or seek out rest in the shadow of Salisbury Crags -or Arthur's Seat, the tottering arch and crumbling walls of Holyrood -Abbey. The country round is finely varied on the south, and the richly -wooded Corstorphine Hills, on the east, all within a mile or two of the -city; while farther off rise the Pentland Hills, four miles to the -southwest, and to the north the Frith of Forth. In former times -Edinburgh, with its Castle, was selected as the only place of safety for -the royal household, the Parliament, the mint, and various important -offices. By this means rising in importance, it became densely peopled, -and the houses were built to an unusual height, that the inhabitants -might keep within the walls, for the sake of protection. - -The stranger who enters what is apparently the ground floor of one of -these houses on the north side of High Street, is often surprised to -find himself, without having gone upstairs, looking from a fourth story -window in the rear. This is due to the steep slope on which the houses -stand, and gives them the command of a beautiful view, including New -Town, and extending across the Frith of Forth to the varied shores of -Fife. The town then consisted of the original High Street, reaching to -the Lawn Market and Canongate, where a heart-shaped figure, on High -Street pavement, marks the spot where the Heart of Mid-Lothian once -stood; and on the south a narrow way, called the Cowgate, connected with -each other by several narrow closes and wynds, between dense clusters of -houses. Most of these houses consist of a succession of flats, each -being a separate dwelling, and of such flats there are seldom fewer than -six, and sometimes ten or twelve, towering to an immense height, and -rendered still more imposing from the manner and position in which they -are built. - -A striking object in the vicinity is the Canongate Tolbooth, with -turrets and clock projecting from the front, on iron brackets, which -have taken the place of the original carved oaken beams. Executions -sometimes took place in front of this building; but a more frequent -place of execution was the Girth Cross, near the foot of the Canongate. -The citizens remained content with these confined limits until the North -Bridge was erected, connecting the Old Town with the fields in the -north, on which the New Town was beginning to be built. Shortly -afterwards the line of this bridge was extended southwards, and thus a -level was opened to the southern suburbs, which have since rivalled the -New Town in rapid growth. The Nor' Loch was drained, and partially -bridged over by the mound formed from the earth dug from the foundations -of the New Town, and its situation is occupied by fine public and -private gardens, which now lie in the centre of the city, and separate -the New Town from the Old, where a military band plays every Thursday -afternoon, to the delight of the citizens who promenade these gardens. -The New Town being built with much regularity, in straight streets, and -in squares and crescents with numerous gardens, contrasts with the -crowded though picturesque masses of the Old Town. In recent years, -however, great changes have been made, and several new streets have been -opened through the most crowded and ruinous localities. Among the most -interesting features of the city is the Castle, in which are shown the -ancient regalia of Scotland, and Queen Mary's room, where King James was -let down from the window in a basket, and Queen Margaret's little -chapel, which stands on the ramparts, close to which is "Mons-Meg," said -to be the oldest cannon in Great Britain. It is constructed of thick -staves of wrought iron, with bands of the same material. Hundreds of -visitors enter the Castle daily to see Queen Mary's room, the ancient -regalia, and other objects of great antiquity. Holyrood Palace, which, -with the exception of one wing containing Queen Mary's apartments, in -which her bed-room is furnished just as it was when she occupied it, and -the blood-stained boards in the hall, where Rizzio was murdered, is -plainly yet to be seen. The Bank of Scotland, recently rebuilt; the Scot -Monument in Princess Street gardens, Heriot and Donaldson's Hospital, -the Post Office, the National Gallery, the University and Museum of -Science and Art, and hotels of Princess Street and George's Street. - -But the New Town has two grand features about which all are agreed. We -need hardly say that these are Princess Street and the Calton Hill. -Princess Street extends along the gardens, from Calton Hill to the West -end, and is the principal and most beautiful street in the city. Near -Calton Hill stands Burns' Monument, which is a circular building, with -columns and cupola; it has all the outward appearance of a tomb, so that -one is rather startled to find it tenanted by a "canny Scot,"—a live -one,—who presides, with becoming sepulchral gravity, over a two-penny -show of miscellaneous trumpery connected with Robert Burns. - -[Illustration: HOLYROOD PALACE AND BURN'S MONUMENT, EDINBURGH.] - -In October I went to Dunoon, on a visit to an old friend of mine, who -was discharged soon after our arrival from Jamaica. I went by the -Caledonian Railway to Glasgow, thence to Greenock, and by boat to -Dunoon, where I enjoyed myself in one of the most frequented sea-bathing -places and summer resorts in the West of Scotland. It is situated in the -south-west of Argyleshire, on the west side of the Firth of Clyde, nine -miles west of Greenock. A village existed here from a very early date, -but a new, well-built town, with fine villas around, has of late years -sprung up. Dunoon Castle, of which only a small portion now remains, -stood on a conical hill near the pier, and was once a Royal Palace and -strong fortress. The Argyle family once lived here, but the building -became a ruin over a century ago. After a week's pleasure, fishing, -bathing, and boating, I bid my friend farewell; after thanking him much -for his attention and kindness to me during my visit, I left for -Edinburgh Castle, where I arrived at 6 p.m. - -The 2nd Battalion 6th Royal Regiment was stationed in Edinburgh Castle -over twelve months, when they got the route for Aldershot camp on the -30th May, 1868. Previous to the regiment leaving, I got my discharge on -the 26th May, 1868, after twenty-one years' service of Her Majesty. I -parted with the 6th Regiment and my coat with the deepest sorrow, and -lost my regimental home and friends. I afterwards went to Dalkeith, a -pensioner and civilian, and was employed as mess-man to the Duke of -Buccleuch's regiment of militia, the "Duke's Canaries," during their -training. This town is about seven miles from Edinburgh, stands near the -junction of the North and South Esk, and is a station of the North -British Railway. It chiefly consists of one main street. It is one of -the largest grain markets in Scotland, with a large and commodious -market hall. Dalkeith Palace, the chief seat of the Duke of Buccleuch, -is a large, square structure overhanging the North Esk, amid fine -grounds, in which the Esks flow, and unite. The Duke's chapel stands -within the palace grounds. While in Dalkeith I received two encouraging -letters from Canada, one from my sister and the other from my nephew, -advising me to come to Canada. - -After the training was over, I sold out my furniture by auction, and -proceeded by the North British Railway to Glasgow, where I took an -intermediate passage for Canada for my wife, daughter and myself, on -board the steamship "St. Andrew," Captain Scott, one of the Allan line, -which was to sail on Tuesday, 14th July, 1868, for Quebec. This left us -five days to wait in Glasgow, during which time I took the opportunity -of visiting many interesting places in this industrial metropolis of -Scotland, and one of its largest and most important cities. It is -situated on the Clyde, in Lanarkshire. This river divides the north from -the south side of the city, and is crossed by five bridges, much admired -for their light and graceful architecture, and suspension bridges -besides. Below the bridges ferry-boats ply at all hours. The city has -somewhat a smoky aspect, while many of the streets are continually -thronged with passengers, and noisy carts, cabs, and omnibuses. In other -respects it has many attractions. - -The houses facing the river stand well back, leaving spacious -thoroughfares on each side, and affording full and noble views of the -bridges, and of the harbour with its steam funnels and forests of masts; -most of the leading streets run from east to west parallel with the -river, and almost all the streets are laid off in straight lines. The -houses are generally lofty, and built of freestone; the floors of each -tenement, being occupied by separate families, are entered by a common -stair. - -Many of the public buildings deserve notice. The Cathedral, is one of -the finest churches in Scotland. The Royal Exchange on Queen street, -several of the banks, and many of the churches, likewise present fine -specimens of architecture in a variety of styles. - -The several equestrian statues, include those of William III., of the -Cross, the Duke of Wellington, in front of the Royal Exchange, and Queen -Victoria, in George's Square. In the Green there is an obelisk 144 feet -high, to Nelson, forming a conspicuous object in the landscape. In -George's Square there is a statue of Sir Walter Scott, a fine statue of -Sir John Moore, a statue of James Watt, and a statue of Sir Robert Peel. -Charitable institutions and benevolent societies abound. There are -several theatres and museums, and numerous halls in which soirees and -concerts are held nightly during the winter. - -The wealthier inhabitants migrate to the coast in shoals during the -summer, and cheap Saturday excursions by river and rail, are extensively -taken advantage of by the working classes. To the north-west of the city -is a botanic garden, which is thrown open every summer during the fair -holidays, at a mere nominal charge. With the additional attractions of -the conservatory, large numbers visit these gardens. There are several -cemeteries in the vicinity of which Sighthill is the most picturesque. - -There are besides, four public parks, one in each quarter of the city, -namely, the Green, occupying the level next the Clyde at the east end; -Queen's Park, finely situated on a rising ground in the south; Kelvin -Grove, rounding the face of the hill, crowned with noble terraces, and -sloping down to the Kelvin, at the west end of the city. Our time here -was short; the ship sails at six o'clock this evening. - -After paying the landlord at the George Hotel, we drove to the -Broomielaw, where the ship lay alongside the wharf, when we went on -board, and at 6.15 p.m. we sailed with the tide. As we steamed out -slowly among the shipping in the harbour, the town of machinery and tall -chimneys, out of which interminable serpents of smoke trailed themselves -for ever and ever and never got uncoiled, the Clyde, as the tide -receded, looked like a river that ran purple with ill-smelling dye, and -vast piles of buildings full of windows where there was a rattling and -trembling all day long, and where the piston of the steam engine worked -monotonously up and down in a state of madness. It was a lovely evening -in July. The sun was throwing a hazy light across the landscape on -either side of the Clyde as we proceeded; where rich golden harvest -fields waved, and the perfume of a thousand flowers was wafted by the -zephyrs, which sighed among the young leaves, and a thousand songsters -sent forth their melody in joyous chorus. As we passed Greenock we could -not help admiring the large rectangular buildings, containing an endless -number of windows garnished with machinery, pipes puffing steam, and -long chimneys vomiting smoke. As we steamed down, so narrow and crooked -was the river in places that we ran aground at 7.15 p.m., when we had a -delay until two tug steamers came and pulled us off, when we continued -our course and cast anchor off the tail of the bank at 8.15 p.m. Here we -were delayed until 2 p.m. next day, when we weighed anchor and steamed -down the Firth of Clyde, with one hundred and seventy passengers on -board, westerly, and a head wind, making eight knots an hour. The night -was lovely, the clear, bright moon threw a silvery light athwart the -face of the deep glistening waters, as our ship dashed onwards, reaching -Kingstown at 10 a.m. next day, where we cast anchor and witnessed a -regatta. The harbour was so crowded with yachts that we had to anchor at -its mouth. - -At 11 a.m. we weighed anchor again and were piloted outside of Howth. A -head wind; passed the Isle of Man and Calf-lights at 4 p.m., cast the -log at 5 p.m., ship making nine knots; arrived at Moville in Lough Foyle -at 5 a.m. on 17th, where we took more passengers on board, and steamed -out at 11.30 a.m., passed Instrahull lighthouse at 2 p.m., head wind, -heavy Atlantic swells, most of the passengers got sea sick, passed Tony -Island at 5.45 p.m., three absent from supper with sea sickness; 18th, -Saturday, rough sea, head wind, most of the passengers sea sick; 19th, -Sunday, Divine service at 10 a.m., weather fine, head wind, distance -made 157 miles in 24 hours; 20th, Monday, passengers getting over sea -sickness, although the ship rolls and pitches a good deal, distance made -162 miles; 21st, Tuesday, Lat. 54° 24', Long. 28° 00', distance 203 -miles, fine weather, stiff breeze; 22nd, Wednesday, Lat. 53° 18', Long. -32° 48', distance made 184 miles. At 4 p.m. the wind changed, when all -the canvas that could be put on was hoisted, and we ran at 11½ knots -during the night; 23rd, Thursday, head wind, and a cold, damp, thick, -heavy fog covered the broad Atlantic, distance 232 miles, Lat. 50° 16', -Long. 42° 50', 5 p.m., wind changed, ship making 10 knots, stiff breeze -from the North; 25th, Saturday, fair wind, making 10½ knots, 10.30 -a.m., ten large icebergs in view, at 2 p.m. we saw two large whales -close to the ship; 26th, Sunday, Lat. 46° 25', Long. 53° 42', distance -231 miles, soundings 50 fathoms, wind favourable, cold, wet, and -miserable weather, at midnight sighted St. Peter's light; 27th, Monday, -Lat. 47° 18', Long. 58° 18', distance made 206 miles, at 10 a.m. sighted -Cape Ray. Newfoundland coast looked very bare with small trees and -underwood. Passed Port Basque at 4.30 p.m. This small village is the -telegraph station of the Atlantic cable from Ireland, _via_ Heart's -Content, Newfoundland, from thence to Cape Breton on to Nova Scotia and -Canada. The island looked cold and barren, with heaps of snow on several -of the hills, entered the Gulf of St. Lawrence at 6.30 p.m., steering -North, light head wind, our ship runs onward very smoothly, making 8½ -knots, all hands over sea sickness and in good spirits, with good -appetites, passed the bark _Arctic_ at 6.45 p.m., homeward bound. - -The water seems like a mirror, and the night fine, crossing the Gulf of -St. Lawrence; 28th, Tuesday, morning beautiful, came in sight of the -Island of Anticosti at 6 a.m., and at 11 a.m. sighted the coast of -Gaspé, passed Cape Rozier at 4 p.m., night fine, not a ripple on the -face of the deep; 29th, Wednesday, steamed along the coast of Lower -Canada, but a thick fog came on which caused much delay, at 10.30 a.m, -we reached "Father Point," where we fired a gun for a pilot to come on -board, when we were answered in the thick fog by one from the pilot, -whose boat we had passed some distance, the fog being so thick we did -not see him. However, after he answered we lay too and took him on board -at 11.20 a.m., then steamed forward at 10 knots, coasting along the bank -of the river, where we had a view now and then, as the fog cleared, of -small villages along the coast. The houses were all white and built of -wood; the land for the most part appeared covered with thick forests, -but near the villages were some spots cleared and under cultivation, -which were green with either grass or crops, but owing to the fog we -could not well make out the coast, however, now and then the fog cleared -away for a short time as it were to let us have a bird's-eye view of the -country on either side of us. The pilot brought on board some newspapers -which we amused ourselves reading while the fog lasted. Passed Cacouna -at 5.30 p.m., it is a watering place on the banks of the St. Lawrence, -about 80 miles from Quebec; it appears a pretty place with one church -which we could see plainly. Passed the Brandy Pots at 5.45 p.m., and -River Du Loup at the opposite side, at the same time. This village is a -French settlement, and is the terminus of the Grand Trunk Railway, -distance made 250 miles. - -At eleven a.m. we weighed anchor again and proceeded on our way, and -after a pleasant voyage of 15 days, arrived at Quebec, on the 30th of -July. - -On comparing chronometers, we found a difference in the time between -Quebec and Greenwich of 5h. 44m. 49s. - -From here we took the express train to Montreal, and put up at the -Albion Hotel. The scenery along the line of the railway seemed to me so -strange; the country was covered with wood; wherever I looked there was -wood—everything seemed wooden. - -At 8 o'clock next morning we took the train for that ancient -limestone-fortified City of Kingston—the city of the Thousand -Isles—where we arrived at 2 p.m., and drove in a cab to the -Anglo-American Hotel where we stayed till next day, at 3 p.m., when we -took the steamer "Bay of Quinté" for Picton. The scenery along the -beautiful Bay of Quinté, from Kingston to Picton, was delightful. I -stayed on deck during the evening, enchanted with the wild landscape and -picturesque scenery, arriving at Picton at 8 p.m., when we rode in Mrs. -Blanchard's 'bus up to my sister's. - -I visited my friends for a month when I went steward of Ontario College, -where I stayed for twelve months, when I bought a property on Main -Street; here I went into the grocery business, during which time I -messed the 16th Battalion County Prince Edward Volunteers, and the -summer following I messed the officers at Picton and again at Kingston -in 1871. - -The same year I applied to the Council at Picton for a license—which -was granted—for my house, which I named the "Victoria Hotel," where I -carried on business as a hotel-keeper until the year 1878, when I sold -the hotel through the effects of the Dunkin Act, after laying out a -large sum of money in enlarging and building an addition to the house, -also stables and sheds. For two or three years previous to voting on the -Dunkin Bill, a few fanatics—in order to get their names before the -public as great temperance advocates, not knowing of anything better to -preach about, like the Turkish Dervishes, tried to make people believe -that they were all saints and everybody else sinners; although the -temperance saints generally had a bottle in the garret or the cellar -which they used when not observed. - -They held meetings all over the county, and any person who did not join -them had no chance of being elected to any public office. Men who were -ambitious were obliged to attend their meetings in order to gain -popularity, and dare not go into an hotel. An honest, straightforward, -truthful man, unless he agreed with them, had a poor chance of being -elected to any office. At any rate, the Dunkin side got strong enough to -carry the election. Most of those who were against it would not vote -through fear of their neighbours, they said it made little difference to -them whether there was license or not. Through this sort of intimidation -the vote was carried by the Dunkinites and became law in the county. At -the end of twelve months another vote was taken to repeal it, when the -Dunkinites again carried the election, owing to several local orators -who stood up where the Dunkinites held meetings throughout the country -and preached against its repeal. These men, of course, gained popularity -with the temperance party for the time being. But like the house that -was built on the sand, "the rain came and the wind blew and beat on that -house and great was the fall thereof, because it was built on the sand." -And now those who voted for the Dunkin Bill want to repeal it, seeing -that it not only increases the number of places that sell liquor -privately in the town, but that it deprives the county of a very large -revenue. Notwithstanding that the Dunkin Act was superseded by the -Crooks' Act, and, knowing that it was _ultra vires_, they tried to -enforce it. Several cases of selling liquor contrary to the Dunkin Act -were brought before the magistrates and fines inflicted; at last, seeing -that it was not constitutional, they gave up trying any more. But when a -man is to be hanged there is always a hangman to be found; so it was -with the Dunkin Act, there was one found to try the cases, when almost -invariably fines or imprisonment were inflicted; of the latter several -hotel-keepers had a foretaste. - -Knowing that these convictions were bad, they were appealed to a higher -tribunal. There was one thing that we have got cause to be thankful to -the government for, and that is for selecting and appointing just, -learned and impartial judges, who know neither friend nor partisan when -they sit on the tribunal to mete out justice and judgment, according to -the law of the land. When these appeal cases came before the learned and -just Judge of the County of Prince Edward, they were all quashed. - - -LINES ON PICTON, BAY OF QUINTE. - - Fair Picton! what a blissful spot, - Where peace and happiness had been my lot, - But the Dunkin fanatics disturbed my home, - And sent me from you, far to roam. - - Where golden corn waves in the breeze, - And sugar flows from maple trees, - And here in winter, on the plains of snow, - Gay dressed parties out a-sleighing go. - - With noble churches of much renown, - Thy shady cemetery outside the town, - Where friends do go, when from labour free, - To dress the grave beneath the shady tree. - - Where marble monuments lift up from grass, - Which mark the spot to strangers as they pass. - Where noble souls and friends so dear, - Having left this life, are sleeping quietly here. - - T. FAUGHNAN. - - -After I sold out I thought I would not go into hotel business again, but -I found it so dull, I leased the Anglo-American Hotel in Kingston, -which, however I again relinquished in February last, and am now living -in Kingston. - -At about 4 p.m. on the 29th May, 1879, His Excellency the Right -Honourable the Marquis of Lorne and his Royal Consort, Princess Louise, -arrived at Kingston, for the purpose of laying the corner-stone of the -Queen's College, having been invited for that purpose by Dr. Grant, the -Principal of the Queen's University. - -On arrival, the Royal guests were received by the corporation and other -city dignitaries, professors, and officers of the Royal Military -College. A Royal salute was fired from Fort Henry. After the singing of -"God save the Queen," by over one thousand little school children, the -Mayor read the address of welcome to the Royal guests, which was -graciously responded to by His Excellency in a loud, clear, and distinct -voice. After the address another song was sung by the children, led by -Mr. Rackett, Bandmaster Dominion Artillery, on the cornet; after which a -procession was formed, and the Vice-regal party entered their carriage, -which was drawn by four horses, with postillions. They moved off amid -loud cheering from the people, escorted by a troop of cavalry commanded -by Colonel Duff, with the corporation and members of the different -societies in carriages. Crowds of people lined the streets, who cheered -most heartily, as the Royal visitors proceeded along the route. The -streets were beautifully decorated with splendid arches, appropriate -mottoes, and evergreens. The Princess looked very much pleased, and -bowed most graciously to the delighted crowd. The line of procession was -kept by the 14th P. W. O. Rifles, commanded by Major E. H. Smythe. As -His Excellency and the Princess alighted from their carriage at Mr. Geo. -A. Kirkpatrick's house, where they were guests, the people again cheered -and shouted, when the Princess and Marquis most graciously acknowledged -the salutations. Major and Mrs. De Winton were staying at Mr. Stafford -Kirkpatrick's. The Royal reception passed off to the entire satisfaction -of all concerned, there being nothing to mar the proceedings. - -In the evening His Excellency and the Princess held a drawing room in -the City Hall, which was beautifully illuminated and fitted up with -swords and bayonets forming most exquisite designs and mottoes -tastefully arranged by the gunners of "A" Battery Dominion Artillery. - -The Cadets from the Royal Military College, commanded by Major Ridout, -and headed by "A" Battery band, formed the guard of honour. About 9.30 -His Excellency and Her Royal Highness Princess Louise arrived and were -greeted by a royal salute. Next day at 11.30 a.m., His Excellency and -H.R.H. Princess Louise laid the corner stones on each side of the front -entrance of the Queen's College, and planted two trees, one of maple and -the other of birch, in front of the entrance to the college, after which -the degree of LL.D. was conferred on His Excellency by the Chancellor, -who delivered to him the diploma, which was a beautiful work of art -being engrossed on parchment, in Indian ink and gold, with Royal Arms, -and the crest of the noble House of Argyle within a chaste and elaborate -border of the scenery, views, and buildings of the city. - -At 3 p.m. His Excellency, the Princess and suite, accompanied by Mr. -George A. Kirkpatrick, visited the Penitentiary. On arrival there, His -Excellency and Her Royal Highness were received by Mr. Creighton, the -Warden, who conducted the distinguished party through the institution, -which was tastefully decorated with a handsome arch, on the top of which -was a large and tastefully made crown of evergreens, with the Royal Arms -beneath, and a large Union Jack floating from the tower. In the evening -His Excellency and Her Royal Highness attended a concert at the Opera -House. Mr. George A. Kirkpatrick, M.P., and Mrs. James, were honoured -with seats in the Vice-Regal boxes. - -On Saturday, His Excellency and Her Royal Highness visited the different -schools and hospitals. In the afternoon they visited the Royal Military -College, where the troops, consisting of the Cadets, "A" Battery, -Dominion Artillery, and the 14th Prince of Wales Own Rifles, commanded -by Colonel Kerr, were formed in line, facing the city, and commanded by -Colonel Hewett, R. E., the commandant. At 3 p.m., His Excellency, the -Princess and suite, accompanied by Sir E. S. Smyth and staff, arrived on -the ground, escorted by a troop of cavalry. They were received with a -Royal salute, after which His Excellency, attended by General E. Smyth, -Colonel Van Straubenzie, Colonel Hewett, Colonel Irwin, Colonel Wolsley -and others of the staff, inspected the troops. The Brigade then marched -past, and afterwards were put through a sham fight, changing front to -the left, Captain W. C. Sand's company of the Rifles covering the -advance in skirmishing order, which Her Royal Highness seemed to enjoy -very much. The review being over, His Excellency, the Princess and -suite, accompanied by Colonel Hewett and other officers, made a tour of -inspection through the College and afterwards Her Royal Highness the -Princess Louise distributed prizes to the Cadets. - -On Sunday, the Vice-Regal party attended Divine Service at St. George's -Cathedral. The Service was read by the Very Rev. the Dean of Ontario, -and the Lessons by the Rev. H. Wilson. A most eloquent and impressive -sermon was preached by the Very Rev. the Dean of Ontario, who took his -text from St. John, chap. 12, verse, 32. His Excellency, accompanied by -Mr. George A. Kirkpatrick, M.P., and Captain Harbord, A.D.C., attending -evening service at St. Andrew's Church. The sermon was preached by the -Rev. G. M. Grant, D.D. - -On Monday, His Excellency, the Princess and suite, took a trip down the -river, accompanied by Sir Richard Cartwright, Principal, and Mrs. Grant, -Colonel and Mrs. Hewett, Mr. and Mrs. Gun, Colonel Irwin, Colonel -Cotton, Colonel and Mrs. Van Straubenzie, the Misses Montalbert, Mrs. -James, Mr. G. A. Kirkpatrick, M.P., Major Gildersleeve and others. On -arrival at Gananoque, the Field Battery, under the command of Major -Mackenzie, fired a Royal salute. Before the boat left, the Rev. Mr. -George Taylor, Major Mackenzie, Mr D. Ford Jones, M.P., went on board -and were introduced to His Excellency. The return trip was made by the -American Channel, reaching the city about 6 p.m., when they drove to the -residence of Mr. George A. Kirkpatrick, M.P. - -The following morning, about 5 o'clock, the Vice-Regal party left -Kingston by the steamer "Spartan," _en route_ for Quebec. On their -departure a Royal salute was fired from Fort Henry. "A" Battery, -Dominion Artillery, under the command of Lieutenant-Colonel Cotton, -furnished a guard of honour. As the steamer moved from the wharf, the -crowd cheered and shouted, to which His Excellency and H.R.H. the -Princess Louise most graciously bowed their acknowledgments, and seemed -delighted with their reception at Kingston. - -_Long live His Excellency the Governor-General, and H. R. Highness the -Princess Louise!_ - - -LINES ON THE OCCASION OF THE MARQUIS OF LORNE AND THE PRINCESS LOUISE -VISITING KINGSTON. - - Of a Royal Princess we now can boast, - And drink a health and loyal toast - To QUEEN VICTORIA, whom God may spare, - Who honoured Canada with her daughter fair. - - From deceitful enemies or their foes, - May God the Royal couple keep in sweet repose; - And let nations see that this fair land, - Can uphold Royalty with heart and hand. - - Kingston, fair city of the thousand isles, - Where the noble St. Lawrence so gently smiles; - With its Royal Military College of much renown, - And the grand old buildings of this ancient town. - - Though this city much of limestone smells, - There are British hearts that ever swell, - To respond to Royalty and one so fair, - And to the Princess Louise who visited there. - - Was e'er such honour paid to Kingston before, - As a Princess and Marquis inside their door? - The honour paid her, was much deserved, - For she stood true and loyal when others swerved. - - With the noble Marquis and the fair Louise, - The loyal Kingstonians were much pleased; - At their reception Mayor Gildersleeve did preside, - With the city aldermen on either side. - - To give a loyal welcome to those we love so dear, - And show our loyalty in old Kingston here, - For that we Kingstonians all are sworn, - To stand together,—aye, for Lorne! - - T. FAUGHNAN. - - -So now here at the old limestone City of Kingston, I must give my gentle -reader the parting hand of fellowship. We have had a long, and I hope -interesting journey, from my enlistment to my discharge. I trust not an -unprofitable one. We have travelled over the ground of battle-scenes, of -blood, carnage and slaughter; stood on the hoary ruins of palaces and -temples; we have seen Egypt, and that great and terrible desert. - -Our time together has passed pleasantly; we part, I trust, mutual -friends, and so ends the story of an old soldier, who only asks your -pardon for the many defects and weakness in his simple narrative, and -who also hopes it may amuse the young and old, and show them that a -steady, sober and well-conducted man will ever get on well and be happy -in the service of Her Most Gracious Majesty: whom that God may long -preserve, is the prayer of her humble and dutiful pensioner. - - - THOMAS FAUGHNAN. - KINGSTON ONT., July 1, 1879. - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Stirring Incidents In The Life of a -British Soldier, by Thomas Faughnan - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK STIRRING INCIDENTS--BRITISH SOLDIER *** - -***** This file should be named 51595-0.txt or 51595-0.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/5/1/5/9/51595/ - -Produced by Brian Coe, Chris Pinfield, and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive/Canadian Libraries) - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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