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-The Project Gutenberg EBook of A Guide to Natural Bridges National
-Monument, Utah, by Anonymous
-
-This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most
-other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions
-whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of
-the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at
-www.gutenberg.org.  If you are not located in the United States, you'll have
-to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook.
-
-Title: A Guide to Natural Bridges National Monument, Utah
-
-Author: Anonymous
-
-Release Date: April 2, 2016 [EBook #51640]
-
-Language: English
-
-Character set encoding: ASCII
-
-*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK NATURAL BRIDGES NATIONAL MONUMENT, UTAH ***
-
-
-
-
-Produced by Stephen Hutcheson, Dave Morgan and the Online
-Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-                               A Guide to
-                            Natural Bridges
-                           National Monument,
-                                  Utah
-
-
- book designed and produced by visual communication center inc. denver,
-                                colorado
-
-    [Illustration: Published by the Canyonlands Natural History
-    Association, an independent, non-profit corporation organized to
-    complement the educational and environmental programs of the
-    National Park Service.]
-
-    [Illustration: _Visitor Center_]
-
-
-
-
-INTRODUCTION
-
-
-Welcome to Natural Bridges National Monument. We hope you can take the
-time to enjoy a relaxed, leisurely visit to the area and that this Guide
-will help you to do so. If you are like most visitors, you came here
-specifically to see the three great bridges. If that is all that you
-want to do, you can get through the area in less than two hours.
-
-We suggest, however, that you plan on spending more time here (if that's
-possible in your situation). There are more things here to see and do,
-and more ways to look at the bridges, than you may have realized. You
-have invested time and money to get here and you will gain a better
-return on those investments if you can take a bit more time to visit the
-Monument.
-
-As you drive along the road, you will occasionally find small parking
-areas with numbered posts that look like this:
-
-    [Illustration: Parking-area numbered post]
-
-The numbers on the posts refer to numbered sections of this Guide, and
-each section starts off something like this:
-
-
-[Number: 4] 1.7 (4.8) Meander Viewpoint
-
-In the above example 4. is the stop number; this is the fourth stop on
-the trip, 1.7 is the distance (miles) from the previous stop, (4.8) is
-the mileage from the start of trip at the Visitor Center, and boldface
-words are the name of the stop.
-
-Some sites are not described in the Guide; there are parking places
-without numbered posts. There are scenic views or other points of
-interest at these places, but we thought we'd leave some sites for you
-to "do your own thing," if you wish.
-
-At any stop, numbered or not, you must exercise care for your own and
-your children's safety and you must be reasonable in your use of the
-park. There are many unfenced cliffs you can fall off, rocks you can
-trip over, and other natural hazards that could injure or kill you. We
-will remind you now and then about them, but we can't protect you from
-every hazard. You have to do your part, too. Being reasonable in using
-the park involves things like not throwing rocks off cliffs (there may
-be someone below you), not entering or climbing on prehistoric ruins,
-not defacing things, and stuff like that.
-
-Actually, if you and the Monument are both undamaged by your visit, we
-should all be very pleased that you chose to come here today.
-
-Your visit to the bridges really begins in the Visitor Center. If you
-look over the exhibits, attend the slide program, and ask the
-Information Desk Ranger any questions you may have, you will have begun
-to collect data that should make the entire trip more pleasant. Then,
-with the preliminaries taken care of, step out the back door and walk to
-your right. From that point you and this guide are on your own.
-
-
-                            HAVE A NICE DAY!
-
-    [Illustration: Bears Ears]
-
-
-The Bears Ears.
-
-The two buttes rising above Elk Ridge on the skyline are called the
-Bears Ears. If you have ever looked at a bear at all closely, you may
-wonder why the buttes are called Bears Ears. Well, we wonder about that
-sometimes, too, for they don't look at all like the ears of a bear.
-"Bears Ears" is the officially approved name, but that name was bestowed
-by someone looking at the buttes from another angle. Seen from one point
-of view, physical features may appear completely different than from
-another point of view. Ideas are like that, too, in many cases. If we
-can look at things (including ideas) from a different point of view, we
-may better understand them.
-
-So, we have tried to arrange this Guide in a way that allows you to
-experiment with a few things that you did not intend to do. The great
-majority of visitors here drive in, look at the three bridges and then
-drive out. You can still do that, of course, but this booklet suggests
-some additional things which we hope will add to your enjoyment of the
-Monument.
-
-The first stop along the road is 1.4 miles from here.
-
-
-[Number: 2] 1.4 (1.4) Sphinx Rock
-
-This is another of those different point of view things. The guy who
-named this was looking at it from upper White Canyon. From that point of
-view (the opposite of yours) the resemblance to ancient Egyptian figures
-make the name quite reasonable, whereas from this side it makes no sense
-at all.
-
-The light-colored, nearly white rock all over the place is Cedar Mesa
-Sandstone, a relatively hard, fine-grained rock. Scattered through it
-are thin layers of dark red shale rock which is much softer because it
-contains a lot of muddy silt. The softer red beds erode, or wear away,
-much more quickly than the hard white rock.
-
-The long black or dark streaks on the rocks are desert varnish, a common
-occurrence here which we'll explain at a later stop.
-
-    [Illustration: Sphinx Rock]
-
-
-[Number: 3] 0.2 (1.6)
-
-This is a nice place to try a different point of view. You came here to
-see the bridges, but at this stop why not get out and look at some other
-things of interest. You have to be careful scrambling over the rocks
-(the little arrow signs mark a fairly good route) and when you get out
-near the clifftop be very cautious, but there's a beautiful view of the
-canyon. You can also see cryptogamic crust: a dark brown or black crusty
-layer on the soil, it is actually a very delicate plant community. DON'T
-WALK ON IT! Hop from rock to rock or follow the little drainages of bare
-sand. The cryptogamic soil is a combination of algae, fungi, lichens,
-and other odd plants, all dependent upon each other for some factor
-necessary to their lives.
-
-    [Illustration: Cryptogamic Crust; Detail]
-
-    [Illustration: Douglas Fir]
-
-You will see a lot of it in the Monument; be careful not to damage it. A
-single footstep can destroy 25, 50 or 100 years of growth.
-
-Ravens are a frequent sight in the canyon, flying or soaring along the
-cliffs. Big and black, they are readily recognized. More often, their
-throaty croaking call is heard and that's easy to recognize, too.
-
-As you look along the canyon sides (not down in the bottom), note the
-trees on the slope and ledges--they're different. Different from the
-stocky pinyon and juniper on top and different from the leafy green
-cottonwoods in the bottom. The tall, Christmas-tree-shaped evergreens
-are douglasfir. See any on the other side of the canyon? How about that?
-Why do they grow on only one side of the canyon?
-
-
-[Number: 4] 0.3 (1.9)
-
-This is another different point of view. You've come only a little way,
-you look at the same things (plus a few new ones), but it's different.
-
-    [Illustration: Lichens]
-
-Lichens: Patches of color, bright or somber, like a thin crust on the
-rock. Blue, black, orange, red, brown, green, yellow and other colors.
-These represent another odd plant community. Lichens are a lot tougher
-than the cryptogamic crust, but it seems a shame to walk on them. They
-are algae and fungi that live intertwined lives. Neither can live alone;
-each is utterly dependent upon the other. Such things are called
-"symbiotic" or "symbiotes." Incidentally, you're a symbiote, too, in a
-way.
-
-    [Illustration: Crossbedding]
-
-"Crossbedding" is all over the place, and you can see it all through the
-Monument in cliffs, exposed rock faces of many kinds, boulders, etc. It
-is the numerous groups of thin layers of rock intersecting at odd
-angles. They are the result of wind-blown sands drifting across the
-landscape--a very different landscape than that you see. The Cedar Mesa
-Sandstone is largely made up of sands that drifted here in great dunes.
-The loose grains were later covered by more sediments, cemented together
-by other minerals, and are now being uncovered and worn away by erosion.
-With each step, you free grains of sand that have been locked in place
-for about 180 million years. Those grains will now move on, eventually
-to come to rest and again become frozen in time. Rub the sandstone with
-your hand and feel the sand grains break loose.
-
-There is an Indian ruin across the canyon. Can you see it?
-
-The douglasfir community grows on the more shaded side of the canyon,
-for it cannot tolerate the hotter and drier environments on the sunny
-side or on the mesa top. In fact, the tops of most douglasfir growing
-near the cliff rise only to the level of the cliff top. Many have dead
-tops even with the cliffs edge. Hot dry winds from the mesa apparently
-kill the tops of these mountain forest trees, but we're not really sure
-that's the reason for the dead tops. Can you think of a better one?
-
-    [Illustration: Douglas Fir]
-
-
-[Number: 5] 0.1 (2.0) Sipapu Bridge viewpoint
-
-Natural bridges are often described in terms like young, mature, and
-old, but the words have nothing to do with age in years. A "young"
-bridge has a great, massive span above a relatively small hole. An "old"
-bridge has a very thin span over a relatively large opening. A "mature"
-bridge is intermediate between young and old. The same terms can be used
-to describe natural arches--which form in a very different manner than
-do bridges. Remember, the terms reflect stages of development, not age
-in years (a mature bridge could be older in years than an old bridge!).
-Sipapu is mature.
-
-    [Illustration: Sipapu Bridge]
-
-
-[Number: 6] 0.8 (2.8) Sipapu Trailhead
-
-You came here to see bridges and you got a good view of one at the last
-stop. Here is an outstanding opportunity for another, but different,
-view of that bridge. Two different views, in fact.
-
-A trail starts here, proceeds about halfway down into the canyon and out
-along a ledge to an outstanding view of this beautiful, graceful bridge.
-It's a fairly easy walk with guard rails, metal stairs, and other aids.
-You have to climb one short ladder. You can see an ancient Indian ruin,
-may learn quite a bit about the douglasfir community, and will get an
-excellent chance to photograph the bridge. You can walk out and back in
-about half an hour, but you may find that you want to take longer.
-
-About halfway to the viewpoint, another trail takes off and goes right
-down into the canyon. DO NOT take that route unless you're prepared for
-a much more ambitious hike. You need good footwear (like boots with a
-good sole for rock), drinking water in warm or hot weather, and plenty
-of time (allow 2-3 hours at least). It's a nice trip and you'll never
-really appreciate how huge this bridge is unless you stand under it, but
-we do not recommend the hike unless you are physically fit and properly
-prepared.
-
-SPECIAL WARNING: When you make a trip into any canyon in this part of
-the country, beware of flash floods. Even if the weather is fine where
-you are, be on the lookout for thunderstorms or heavy rain upstream from
-your location. If it's raining upstream, or if great towering clouds are
-building up, STAY OUT OF THE STREAMBED in the bottom of the canyon.
-NEVER CAMP in or next to a streambed in this region, even if it is dry.
-If you get caught by a healthy flash flood, you're dead.
-
-The following lettered paragraphs are coordinated with numbered stakes
-along the trail to the viewpoint. They help explain features as you see
-them. If you are not taking advantage of the different points of view
-here, turn to page 16. (It's OK to read the trail guide even if you
-don't take the walk.)
-
-[Number: 6A] How's this for a different point of view? It used to be,
-when people wanted to do what you are doing, that they scrambled out on
-the rocks, crawled across these logs and climbed down the tree. That was
-the only way down the cliff. Now you gain access via the stairs, which
-cost a few thousand of your tax dollars. Your dollars, remember, not
-just "Government funds."
-
-Now, some folks say we ruined the trip, that it's no fun anymore. Others
-say we should have built wooden stairs, not metal. Some think this is
-fine and a few want nothing less than an elevator or tram. What do you
-think?
-
-How does the difficulty of getting to a place affect your feeling for
-that place? How does it affect your opinion of the people who will not
-(we don't mean those who can not) do what you are doing right now?
-
-    [Illustration: White Throated Swifts]
-
-[Number: 6B] A thousand years ago this summer, a man stood where you now
-stand and he watched the white throated swifts sweep in and out of
-cracks in the cliff above you. He didn't know they were white throated
-swifts nor did he care. His main interest was to see if any baby birds
-had fallen from their nests into the pile of manure. Many do, each year,
-and the occupants of this land used any food they could find.
-
-In that 1,000 years, nearly a thousand generations of swifts have come
-and gone. Each year they return, nest in the cracks, wing their way
-through the canyons catching insects, and produce a new generation from
-the stuff of their environment. A thousand generations have passed; the
-swifts are still here. There are neither more nor less than the previous
-owner of the land watched a thousand years ago, and a thousand
-generations have left the environment ready for a thousand more. What of
-us--of Man?
-
-Less than 50 generations of man have passed since the day your
-predecessor watched the birds from this point. Our numbers have
-increased to many times the number there were then and each of us uses
-many times as much from our environment.
-
-Today we endure shortages of food, services and materials. Twenty-five
-years from now there will be twice as many of us. What will become of
-us? In fact, come to think of it, what became of the guy who watched the
-birds 1,000 years ago?
-
-[Number: 6C] A few minutes ago we wrote of a previous owner of this land
-who gathered dead birds. Well, this is his house. It may not look like
-much now (and probably didn't look an awful lot better then), but it has
-become a little rundown after 1,000 (800, or whatever) years. He may
-have been quite proud of it (it's bigger than most) and he built it all
-himself. No planes, trains, barges, boats, trucks, or even wheelbarrows.
-In fact, no wheels! A family of Anasazis could have anything they
-wanted, just so long as they could get it by themselves.
-
-    [Illustration: Anasazi Home]
-
-Please do not enter the ruin. In doing so, you can easily and innocently
-damage it. What we call "innocent vandalism" probably results in more
-irreparable damage than is caused by deliberate vandals.
-
-The Anasazis probably did a little farming down in the canyon, growing
-and storing some corn, beans and squash. They gathered wild fruits and
-seeds and made fiber from native plants. They apparently led a difficult
-life, and probably ate anything they could get: lizards, snakes, birds,
-mice, squirrels, rabbits, and rarely a deer or bighorn sheep. Some
-scientists say they also ate each other, but we don't know if this is
-true.
-
-But the Anasazi lived within certain environmental limitations, just as
-we do. They needed food, water, fuel, and other resources, just as we
-do.
-
-There came a time, about 700 years ago, when the environment here
-changed just a little. Annual rainfall patterns changed, there was a
-serious drought, and other factors may have contributed. Whatever the
-reasons, the Anasazi world changed and Man could no longer survive here.
-Man, ancient or modern, can adapt to a certain range of environmental
-change. There are limits to adaptability, though, and if the changes
-exceed those limits, Man must move to a more suitable place or die. The
-Anasazi moved.
-
-Your environment is changing very rapidly and the changes are world
-wide. Where will you move to?
-
-[Number: 6D] Here it is, Sipapu. In Hopi Indian legend, the Sipapu is a
-passage between two very different worlds. Some visitors see a
-similarity here. Beneath your feet and all around you is a world of
-slickrock: nearly barren expanses of sandstone. But through the Sipapu
-you can see a world of vegetation: a softer, less harsh, more pleasant
-world. One can almost imagine that the Sipapu is a gateway to another
-world.
-
-As you go back up the trail to your car, consider again the different
-points of view along the trail.
-
-    [Illustration: Sipapu Bridge]
-
-
-[Number: 7] 0.3 (3.1) Horse Collar Ruin trailhead
-
-Now here's an opportunity to adopt a truly different point of view: as
-different as it could be. We'd like you to be an Indian. Even if you
-already are an Indian, this walk will offer a different point of view
-because we want you to be an Anasazi Indian of about 800 years ago.
-
-The trail is easy and has few hazards. Of course, you always have to
-exercise reasonable caution on trails or in any unfamiliar environment,
-but the main thing to beware of on this walk is the cliffs further out
-on the trail. There are abrupt, unfenced drop-offs and you and the kids
-have to be careful around them.
-
-If you take the trail, try to put yourself in the place of a man of 800
-years ago. We know you can't simply forget your own rich heritage, but
-try for a brief period to set it aside, try to look at the things about
-you from a different point of view.
-
-[Number: 7A] Na'va produces tangy, tart fruits in good seasons. I like
-it; it's one of the few really tasty things in my diet. You can eat the
-rest of the cactus, too, after you scorch it, but I don't like it very
-much.
-
-    [Illustration: Prickly pear cactus]
-
-[Number: 7B] Mo'hu is a good plant. We eat the seed pods, which usually
-have tasty grubs in them. My woman braids or twists the leaf fibers and
-makes the nets, cords, and other things a man needs. Mo'vi, the bottom
-of the plant, helps make me clean when I wash with it and cleans me
-inside when I eat it.
-
-[Number: 7C] Ersvi in hot water makes a drink I take when my belly hurts
-or to cure sickness. Many of us, mostly the children, die from
-bellyaches and fevers, but our medicine always makes me well--or it has
-so far, anyway.
-
-    [Illustration: Juniper bark]
-
-[Number: 7D] Na'shu is a really good tree, for you can use it for many
-things. The timber is good building material, and the big seeds are good
-to eat when the cones ripen and open. Some years there are many of them,
-and then the women need not work so long for a supply.
-
-[Number: 7E] Ho'taki is another very good tree, like Na'shu. We pull the
-long, shaggy, coarse ho'lpe from the trunk and branches to line our
-roofs. Shredded very fine, it's useful for lining our baby's clothes and
-my woman needs it sometimes. I use the wood for roof beams, too.
-
-[Number: 7F] Owa'si, the rock flowers, are the food of my war gods. We
-do not eat them.
-
-    [Illustration: Lichens]
-
-    [Illustration: Potholes]
-
-[Number: 7G] I drink water from little pools like these, sometimes when
-I have no other water. The water often tastes funny and has bugs in it.
-The deer, bighorn sheep, and other animals drink from these pools, too,
-when there is any water.
-
-[Number: 7H] Almost always, I can find lizards in places like this. Even
-in winter, on warm days, they come out and lie on sunny rocks. Some
-years, when our food is gone in late winter and early spring, I eat
-them--but there isn't much meat on them.
-
-[Number: 7I] There is our home! When I'm hunting up here, I like to look
-down at our village. It is a good place to live. The sun shines under
-the cliff in winter, warming the whole village, but the cliff shades our
-houses in summer.
-
-The fields along the canyon floor have good crops most years, and our
-storage bins are usually full at the end of summer.
-
-Well, I must leave you now, for I have much to do before dark. Good
-hunting!
-
-You have come out here trying to see the world from the Anasazi point of
-view, we hope, but as you return you may wish to consider a 20th century
-point of view.
-
-The 800-year-old buildings across the canyon and 500 feet below are
-called Horse Collar Ruin. It is a village of several homes, two kivas
-(ceremonial and religious building used by men only), and numerous
-storage bins. It may have been home for about 30 people. The brush
-covered flats along the stream were probably farmed, producing corn,
-beans, and other storable crops. Many other food sources were used;
-native plants and animals were eaten and provided numerous necessary
-"side products." Hides, bone, horn, feather, bark, wood, etc., were the
-raw materials for many tools, implements and supplies.
-
-Anasazi villages were often located so as to be bathed in winter
-sunshine and shaded in summer. A somewhat more technological use of the
-sun's energy provides most of the electricity used in the Monument
-today.
-
-    [Illustration: Horse Collar Ruin]
-
-    [Illustration: Map of Natural Bridges National Monument]
-
-    [Illustration: Lizard]
-
-[Number: 7H] You may see lizards just about anywhere in the park. The
-more common varieties in slickrock areas like this are _whiptails_ (very
-sleek, streamlined; tail much longer than body), _eastern fence lizard_
-(rough; spiny; blue patches on throat and belly), _side-blotched lizard_
-(long tail; spiny; blue patch behind front legs).
-
-[Number: 7G] Potholes, or rock pools, are a common feature of flat
-sandstone beds. Some reach great size and depth and not all the steps in
-their development are understood. Once a slight depression is formed by
-erosion, it holds water for a while after each rain. The moisture
-dissolves some cement and encourages more rapid erosion, thus deepening
-the depression. The depression thus holds water longer, and so grows
-faster. Wind may sweep away the loosened sand grains when the pothole is
-dry.
-
-[Number: 7F] Lichens are a "symbiotic" plant association, as you may
-remember. An alga and fungus grow together, each providing to the other
-an element necessary to life. Neither can live alone; each is dependent
-upon the other.
-
-Lichens are rather effective agents of erosion, which seems a bit
-surprising for a thin crust on the rocks, but it's true. Like most
-plants, lichens tend to make the immediate area more acid. The "cement"
-that holds sand grains together to make sandstone here is very
-susceptible to acid. The lichens create acid conditions, the acid
-dissolves the cement, and the sand grains are freed to blow or wash
-away. And that is what "erosion" is all about.
-
-[Number: 7E] Juniper [Juniperus osteosperma]. Various species of juniper
-are common in the arid southwest. As you climb from desert grasslands to
-higher elevations, the junipers are usually the first trees you see.
-With pinyon pine, they often form a dense "pigmy forest" of short, burly
-trees. At slightly higher elevations, where it is a little cooler and
-moister, ponderosa pine and other trees replace the pinyon-juniper. The
-tiny scale-like needles on the twigs, and abundant bluish berries make
-junipers easy to identify.
-
-    [Illustration: Juniper]
-
-SIDE TRIP: This side trail will take you up to a knoll where you will
-have a 360 degree view of the Monument. It is the only place on your
-tour where you can gain such a view.
-
-    [Illustration: Pinyon]
-
-[Number: 7D] Pinyon [Pinus edulis]. Usually found growing with junipers
-in the pinyon-juniper woodland or pygmy forest. Under ideal conditions,
-pinyon may grow into quite respectable trees! The seeds are still used
-as a staple diet item by Southwestern Indians. As pinyon "nuts," they
-also find their way into gourmet and specialty food shops. The
-inconspicuous flowers appear in spring and the cones mature a year and a
-half later, in the fall.
-
-    [Illustration: Mormon Tea]
-
-[Number: 7C] Mormon tea [Ephedra viridis]. Used by Indians and pioneers
-as a stimulant and medicine, the beverage is still used as a spring
-tonic by many.
-
-Ephedra is really kind of a neat plant. Like most desert plants, it has
-evolved methods of conserving water. For one thing, it has no leaves.
-Look at it closely--it's all stem. Plants can lose a lot of water from
-their leaves and many desert plants have leaves modified to reduce water
-loss, but Mormon tea has dispensed with leaves entirely (Well, almost
-entirely: they get very tiny ones in the spring, which soon fall off).
-Plants usually need green leaves to produce food, but Ephedra has many
-green stems that carry out that function.
-
-    [Illustration: Yucca]
-
-[Number: 7B] Yucca [Yucca brevifolia]. The yuccas are very common
-throughout the Southwest, from low desert to mountains. There are many
-species, but they share one great peculiarity. They are symbiotic with a
-little white moth, the Pronuba.
-
-Female Pronubas live in the blossoms. After mating, the moth collects a
-ball of yucca pollen and jams it onto the stigma (female part) of the
-flower. Yucca pollen is heavy and sticky; it doesn't float around in the
-wind. Other insects do not transport it. The Pronuba insures that the
-plant will produce seeds by fertilizing the blossom and then she lays
-eggs in the base of the flower where the seeds will grow. The larvae
-that hatch from her eggs eat many seeds, but a lot of the seeds mature,
-too. The moth will not lay her eggs anywhere else.
-
-The Pronuba must have yuccas to reproduce. The yuccas must have Pronubas
-to reproduce. Neither can get along without the other.
-
-[Number: 7A] Prickly pear cactus [Opuntia]. Like all desert cactus,
-these are well adapted to the arid environment. Like Ephedra, cactus are
-all stem, have no leaves, and the stems (or "pads") contain green
-chlorophyll, the critically important element in food production. Cactus
-spines are modified leaves that serve as effective protection, but are
-not functional food producers. When moisture is abundant, cactus pads
-get plump and smooth. During extended dry spells, the pads shrink and
-wrinkle as the plant uses the stored water. How has the weather been
-around here recently? Look at the cactus and you can tell!
-
-
-[Number: 8] 0.5 (4.8)
-
-You won't get a very good view of Kachina Bridge here, but you will find
-it much easier to understand how bridges are formed if you walk out to
-the canyon rim. There is no trail, but it's an easy walk without unusual
-hazards other than the ever present cliffs. Remember, DON'T WALK ON THE
-CRYPTOGAMIC CRUST!
-
-    [Illustration: Desert Varnish]
-
-Desert varnish, the dark streaks on the canyon walls, is common in arid
-areas such as this. Each time the rock gets wet, some moisture is
-absorbed by the rock. Water actually seeps into tiny spaces between the
-grains of sand. Later, the moisture is drawn out of the rock and
-evaporated by hot, dry air. While inside the sandstone, however, the
-water dissolves minute amounts of minerals like iron and manganese. When
-the water comes to the rock surface and evaporates, the minerals come
-with it--but the minerals do not evaporate. They accumulate on the
-surface of the rock over thousands of years, slowly forming a very thin
-dark crust.
-
-    [Illustration: White Canyon]
-
-Notice the long, curving, fairly level valley right below you. This is
-an important part of the bridge formation story, for that valley was the
-stream channel before Kachina Bridge was formed. The stream now flows
-through the hole under the bridge, of course, but before there was a
-hole the water had to run around this side of the mass of rock that now
-forms the bridge. Every time White Canyon flooded (which is every time
-it rained very much), the stream cut a little deeper into the base of
-the rock and most of the cutting took place right where the stream was
-forced to turn toward you. As flood waters roared around this curving
-valley, the shape of the canyon also threw them against the downstream
-side of the obstructing wall of rock, so that the stream was eating into
-both sides of a fairly thin wall. It eventually ate right through the
-obstruction, and from then on the stream followed the shorter,
-straighter route. Continued erosion enlarged the opening and cut the
-channel deeper into the canyon. Downcutting of the new channel left this
-old channel high and dry. And there it sits!
-
-Actually, the water coming down Armstrong Canyon (on the left) also
-contributed to bridge development, but we'll get into that at a later
-stop.
-
-    [Illustration: Kachina Bridge]
-
-
-[Number: 9] 0.3 (5.1) Kachina Bridge, viewpoint and trailhead
-
-Kachina is an excellent example of a young bridge. The thick, heavy span
-crosses a relatively small opening. The span and abutments are massive,
-not slim and graceful.
-
-    [Illustration: Pictographs]
-
-Below the bridge are ancient pictographs (drawings on stone) that some
-people felt represented or at least looked like the Hopi Indian gods
-called Kachinas. So the original name was discarded and "Kachina" was
-substituted.
-
-As at the other bridges, there is a very nice little trail down into the
-canyon. The trail is in good condition, you can walk it without special
-equipment, and it isn't especially strenuous. It is a bit steep, so
-coming back on a hot day you may find the trip can be tedious. If the
-weather is fairly warm or hot today, you may also want to take water. An
-hour or hour and a half is adequate time to allow for the trip--unless
-you fool around a lot.
-
-[Number: 9A] The Monument landscape is typified by hundreds of ledges
-and shelves separating the cliffs. Nearly all the canyon walls are lined
-with such ledges. That is because the rather hard Cedar Mesa sandstone
-is seamed with many thin layers of relatively soft rock. The softer
-material erodes very much faster, and as it wears away, the rock above
-and below it is also exposed to the elements. As a deep horizontal
-crevice develops, support for the rock above it is removed and chunks
-eventually fall out. In time, a wide ledge (or shelf, or bench, or
-whatever) forms.
-
-All of the above is happening here, right in front of you. This isn't
-just an interesting formation, it's a dynamic, continuing process that
-is changing the landscape.
-
-[Number: 9B] The canyon coming around the corner on your left is
-Armstrong Canyon. It joins White Canyon on your right. In front of you
-is a waterfall (or it would be there if any water was flowing) above a
-deep, narrow plunge pool. This type of thing is often called a "nick
-point," and it is evidence of some abrupt change in the canyon's
-development. In this case, that change was probably formation of Kachina
-Bridge, which changed the gradient, or steepness, of the stream. The
-water, rushing over the lip and plunging into the pool, quarries out a
-hollow under the lip. In time the lip breaks off, the waterfall moves
-back a few feet, and the process goes on. A similar, but somewhat larger
-nick point is Niagara Falls.
-
-If the canyon is dry today, it may be a little difficult to believe the
-explanation. If you could be here just after a heavy rain, when the
-flood thunders over the rocks at a rate of thousands of gallons each
-second, you would find the whole thing more believable.
-
-    [Illustration: Nick Point]
-
-    [Illustration: Little Arch]
-
-[Number: 9C] This little arch (it's not a bridge) may not win prizes for
-size, but it is very handy for helping explain bridge or arch growth. A
-bridge is first formed by the action of running water, but much of its
-subsequent growth is like development of an arch. Water seeps into tiny
-cracks, freezes in winter, and pries flakes or blocks of stone loose.
-Alternate heat and cold causes rock to expand and contract and that
-opens little cracks, causes tension, etc. If the rock has natural planes
-in it, it may break away along those lines.
-
-If you look at the underside and sides of this little arch, you can see
-evidence of these processes. Please don't "help nature along" by prying
-pieces loose.
-
-This arch may not have been here very many centuries, but it is a very
-"old" arch. Thin and delicate, the fragile span over a relatively huge
-opening is near the end of its life.
-
-[Number: 9D] Back when we explained bridge formation and abandoned
-meanders, we said Armstrong Canyon's run-off played an important role in
-Kachina's development and that we would explain it "later."
-
-Well, now is later. Before the opening was formed, while White Canyon
-run-off came around the channel on your right, Armstrong Canyon run-off
-flowed down the channel from your left and rushed right against the rock
-wall that once existed where the opening now is. Flood waters roaring
-down Armstrong would rush out its mouth, cross the White Canyon
-streambed, and smash into that rock wall. Floods carry great loads of
-sediment: sand, gravel, pebbles, rocks and boulders. These are the teeth
-of a flood, the sand and boulders. They are the agents of erosion that
-bang, smash and batter any obstruction. It is a bit like a liquid saw
-with stone teeth. It's an act of violence, a cataclysm, a ripping and
-tearing. There really isn't anything nice or gentle about it, but it's a
-great way to undercut rock walls and gnaw holes in them!
-
-And that is precisely what it did.
-
-Well, that's about enough for a while. You are more than halfway through
-the Monument and we've been telling you what to see, do, and think
-entirely long enough. Go now, and just enjoy the rest of this lovely
-walk. Walk the trail in leisure and peace. At the bridge are ancient
-ruins and irreplaceable prehistoric rock art. Let them speak to you,
-respect them, and consider your long gone predecessors here. Consider
-your place here, too, and the role you play in our beautiful little
-world.
-
-BEWARE! And go cautiously, for there are spirits here that will make you
-part of this land and forever call you back!
-
-    [Illustration: Ancient Ruins and Rock Art]
-
-
-[Number: 10] 2.0 (7.1) Owachomo Bridge viewpoint and trailhead
-
-Owachomo is a lovely bridge. Long, thin, flat; a fragile old bridge
-nearing its logical and inevitable end: collapse. The opening grows very
-slowly under an old bridge. The opening widens as the bridge abutments
-wear away and the overhead span (the bridge itself) becomes thinner and
-thinner, one grain of sand at a time.
-
-The walk down to this bridge is the easiest of all. You can be down and
-back in a half hour (as usual, we recommend that you take longer). It is
-not strenuous, compared with the other two, and it offers some nice
-insights about bridges. In other words, here's another different point
-of view. Owachomo is sort of a different kind of natural bridge, for it
-was formed differently than the others. We'll explain that when you get
-down there.
-
-[Number: 10A] We haven't said very much about wildlife here, mostly
-because you aren't likely to see much of it. Here however, you can see
-the work of a porcupine. Porcupines like to eat pinyon bark at times,
-and this pinyon must be pretty tasty. The large rodents gnaw at the tree
-to get at the nutritious inner bark, and may in time kill the tree by
-girdling it. The inner bark carries needed food and water between roots
-and leaves (both up and down), and if all the lifelines between the top
-and bottom of the tree are severed, the top will die.
-
-No, we don't try to "protect" the tree from porcupines. We call this a
-natural area, and that means it is an area where we try to let natural
-events proceed without the interference of man. That isn't just
-"protection" of things, it's protection of a system. It just means that
-if the porcupine wants to eat the pinyon, let him do it. It doesn't mean
-the porcupine is "worth" more than the pine, nor vice versa. Each has
-its own place, its own life, and its own interactions with the rest of
-the world. Just like you do!
-
-[Number: 10B] This is a good place to consider Owachomo's origin and
-evolution.
-
-Run-off from a large area used to flow down the little canyon (Tuwa
-Canyon) in front of you, along the base of a rock fin, and into
-Armstrong Canyon behind you to your right. Owachomo did not exist; there
-was no natural bridge at that time. Flood waters rushing down this side
-of the fin ate into the base of the fin and flood waters of Armstrong
-Canyon ate into the other side. A hole developed in the fin, creating
-the bridge and allowing Tuwa's run-off a shorter route to Armstrong.
-
-So, Owachomo was formed by the action of two separate streams, and that
-makes it different from Kachina and Sipapu (and most other natural
-bridges we know about).
-
-    [Illustration: Owachomo Bridge]
-
-Erosion is a continuing, dynamic process; however, stream channels
-gradually change. The run-off from Tuwa no longer flows through the
-little canyon in front of you because there is now a deeper canyon on
-the other side of the bridge fin.
-
-[Number: 10C] Passing the "Unmaintained Trail" sign isn't like
-abandoning all hope, but it does mean that the trail may be harder to
-follow and that we don't do as much to protect or help you. Some hikers
-continue from here and go all the way back to Sipapu via the canyon's
-trail. Many people start at Sipapu and come out this way (which is a lot
-easier), but a few start here and go back. It isn't really a terribly
-difficult hike, either way, and it is a lot of fun.
-
-Owachomo must once have looked like Kachina--massive, solid, strong.
-Later, it was more like Sipapu--graceful and well balanced. Now it looks
-only like itself and the even more fragile Landscape Arch in Arches
-National Park.
-
-At some time soon, one more grain will fall, a crack will race through
-the stone, and the bridge will be a heap of rubble in the canyon. We'll
-probably run around and yell a lot when it happens, while the sand
-grains will quietly continue to break free and begin the next phase of
-their existence.
-
-If you decide to walk on under the bridge, look behind the left
-abutment. There, a thin bed of the softer red stone has eroded back
-under the harder stuff of which the bridge is made. As erosion eats into
-the red-bed, removing support from the abutment, the future of the
-bridge becomes less and less secure. Frankly, we always feel a little
-nervous standing under it (where you are now) because it might collapse
-... now!
-
-As you return to your car, be aware that you may hear the death roar of
-Owachomo. The final, critical grain of sand may slip out of place, a
-bird may land on the bridge, or one of your military jets may pass at
-supersonic speed. However it happens, Owachomo must someday fall. And
-its billions of sand grains must continue their journey to another
-resting place, and that's the way it ought to be.
-
-
-[Number: 11] 1.4 (8.5) Maverick Point View
-
-To your right, across what appears as a fairly level stretch of
-pinyon-juniper forest, the Cedar Mesa sandstone is cut, slashed,
-incised, and divided by a bewildering complex of canyons. Slightly to
-the left of the "flats," Maverick Point, Bears Ears, and long Elk Ridge
-(named by and for three cowboys with the initials E, L, and K, if you'd
-like another point of view!) form the skyline. Bears Ears, by the way,
-was named by Spanish explorers far to the south, from which point they
-look just like a bear peeking over the ridge.
-
-
-[Number: 12] 0.6 (9.1) Sunset Point
-
-If sunset is imminent, stay right here. Sunsets are sometimes very
-spectacular here.
-
-Now go, and travel in peace, comfort and safety. Come again when the
-Canyon Country calls, if you can, but remember always that it remains
-here waiting, free, beautiful and untamed.
-
-If you have questions about this magnificent land, stop at the Visitor
-Center. The men and women of the National Park Service will be greatly
-pleased to talk with you of this and the 300 other areas they serve for
-you and your children. And their children. And theirs.
-
-    [Illustration: _Sunset Point_]
-
-    [Illustration: Solar Photovoltaic Power System]
-
-
-[Number: 13] Solar Photovoltaic Power System
-
-Most of the electricity used in the Monument is produced by converting
-sunlight directly into electricity. The process seems a little bit like
-magic, but it really does work. The system here is a demonstration of
-the feasibility of supplying small, remotely located communities with
-electricity without using fossil fuels to produce it. This process is
-liable to become very widely used within a decade, so the Natural
-Bridges installation is sort of a peek into the future. Exhibits and
-information leaflet explain the system in detail.
-
-    [Illustration: Map showing national parks and monuments in the Four
-    Corners region]
-
-
-
-
-Transcriber's Notes
-
-
---Retained publication information from the printed edition: this eBook
-  is public-domain in the country of publication.
-
---Corrected a few palpable typos.
-
---In the text versions only, text in italics is delimited by
-  _underscores_.
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of A Guide to Natural Bridges National
-Monument, Utah, by Anonymous
-
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-The Project Gutenberg EBook of A Guide to Natural Bridges National
-Monument, Utah, by Anonymous
-
-This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most
-other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions
-whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of
-the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at
-www.gutenberg.org.  If you are not located in the United States, you'll have
-to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook.
-
-Title: A Guide to Natural Bridges National Monument, Utah
-
-Author: Anonymous
-
-Release Date: April 2, 2016 [EBook #51640]
-
-Language: English
-
-Character set encoding: UTF-8
-
-*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK NATURAL BRIDGES NATIONAL MONUMENT, UTAH ***
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-
-
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-Produced by Stephen Hutcheson, Dave Morgan and the Online
-Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net
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-
-                               A Guide to
-                            Natural Bridges
-                           National Monument,
-                                  Utah
-
-
- book designed and produced by visual communication center inc. denver,
-                                colorado
-
-    [Illustration: Published by the Canyonlands Natural History
-    Association, an independent, non-profit corporation organized to
-    complement the educational and environmental programs of the
-    National Park Service.]
-
-    [Illustration: _Visitor Center_]
-
-
-
-
-INTRODUCTION
-
-
-Welcome to Natural Bridges National Monument. We hope you can take the
-time to enjoy a relaxed, leisurely visit to the area and that this Guide
-will help you to do so. If you are like most visitors, you came here
-specifically to see the three great bridges. If that is all that you
-want to do, you can get through the area in less than two hours.
-
-We suggest, however, that you plan on spending more time here (if that’s
-possible in your situation). There are more things here to see and do,
-and more ways to look at the bridges, than you may have realized. You
-have invested time and money to get here and you will gain a better
-return on those investments if you can take a bit more time to visit the
-Monument.
-
-As you drive along the road, you will occasionally find small parking
-areas with numbered posts that look like this:
-
-    [Illustration: Parking-area numbered post]
-
-The numbers on the posts refer to numbered sections of this Guide, and
-each section starts off something like this:
-
-
-[Number: 4] 1.7 (4.8) Meander Viewpoint
-
-In the above example 4. is the stop number; this is the fourth stop on
-the trip, 1.7 is the distance (miles) from the previous stop, (4.8) is
-the mileage from the start of trip at the Visitor Center, and boldface
-words are the name of the stop.
-
-Some sites are not described in the Guide; there are parking places
-without numbered posts. There are scenic views or other points of
-interest at these places, but we thought we’d leave some sites for you
-to “do your own thing,” if you wish.
-
-At any stop, numbered or not, you must exercise care for your own and
-your children’s safety and you must be reasonable in your use of the
-park. There are many unfenced cliffs you can fall off, rocks you can
-trip over, and other natural hazards that could injure or kill you. We
-will remind you now and then about them, but we can’t protect you from
-every hazard. You have to do your part, too. Being reasonable in using
-the park involves things like not throwing rocks off cliffs (there may
-be someone below you), not entering or climbing on prehistoric ruins,
-not defacing things, and stuff like that.
-
-Actually, if you and the Monument are both undamaged by your visit, we
-should all be very pleased that you chose to come here today.
-
-Your visit to the bridges really begins in the Visitor Center. If you
-look over the exhibits, attend the slide program, and ask the
-Information Desk Ranger any questions you may have, you will have begun
-to collect data that should make the entire trip more pleasant. Then,
-with the preliminaries taken care of, step out the back door and walk to
-your right. From that point you and this guide are on your own.
-
-
-                            HAVE A NICE DAY!
-
-    [Illustration: Bears Ears]
-
-
-The Bears Ears.
-
-The two buttes rising above Elk Ridge on the skyline are called the
-Bears Ears. If you have ever looked at a bear at all closely, you may
-wonder why the buttes are called Bears Ears. Well, we wonder about that
-sometimes, too, for they don’t look at all like the ears of a bear.
-“Bears Ears” is the officially approved name, but that name was bestowed
-by someone looking at the buttes from another angle. Seen from one point
-of view, physical features may appear completely different than from
-another point of view. Ideas are like that, too, in many cases. If we
-can look at things (including ideas) from a different point of view, we
-may better understand them.
-
-So, we have tried to arrange this Guide in a way that allows you to
-experiment with a few things that you did not intend to do. The great
-majority of visitors here drive in, look at the three bridges and then
-drive out. You can still do that, of course, but this booklet suggests
-some additional things which we hope will add to your enjoyment of the
-Monument.
-
-The first stop along the road is 1.4 miles from here.
-
-
-[Number: 2] 1.4 (1.4) Sphinx Rock
-
-This is another of those different point of view things. The guy who
-named this was looking at it from upper White Canyon. From that point of
-view (the opposite of yours) the resemblance to ancient Egyptian figures
-make the name quite reasonable, whereas from this side it makes no sense
-at all.
-
-The light-colored, nearly white rock all over the place is Cedar Mesa
-Sandstone, a relatively hard, fine-grained rock. Scattered through it
-are thin layers of dark red shale rock which is much softer because it
-contains a lot of muddy silt. The softer red beds erode, or wear away,
-much more quickly than the hard white rock.
-
-The long black or dark streaks on the rocks are desert varnish, a common
-occurrence here which we’ll explain at a later stop.
-
-    [Illustration: Sphinx Rock]
-
-
-[Number: 3] 0.2 (1.6)
-
-This is a nice place to try a different point of view. You came here to
-see the bridges, but at this stop why not get out and look at some other
-things of interest. You have to be careful scrambling over the rocks
-(the little arrow signs mark a fairly good route) and when you get out
-near the clifftop be very cautious, but there’s a beautiful view of the
-canyon. You can also see cryptogamic crust: a dark brown or black crusty
-layer on the soil, it is actually a very delicate plant community. DON’T
-WALK ON IT! Hop from rock to rock or follow the little drainages of bare
-sand. The cryptogamic soil is a combination of algae, fungi, lichens,
-and other odd plants, all dependent upon each other for some factor
-necessary to their lives.
-
-    [Illustration: Cryptogamic Crust; Detail]
-
-    [Illustration: Douglas Fir]
-
-You will see a lot of it in the Monument; be careful not to damage it. A
-single footstep can destroy 25, 50 or 100 years of growth.
-
-Ravens are a frequent sight in the canyon, flying or soaring along the
-cliffs. Big and black, they are readily recognized. More often, their
-throaty croaking call is heard and that’s easy to recognize, too.
-
-As you look along the canyon sides (not down in the bottom), note the
-trees on the slope and ledges—they’re different. Different from the
-stocky pinyon and juniper on top and different from the leafy green
-cottonwoods in the bottom. The tall, Christmas-tree-shaped evergreens
-are douglasfir. See any on the other side of the canyon? How about that?
-Why do they grow on only one side of the canyon?
-
-
-[Number: 4] 0.3 (1.9)
-
-This is another different point of view. You’ve come only a little way,
-you look at the same things (plus a few new ones), but it’s different.
-
-    [Illustration: Lichens]
-
-Lichens: Patches of color, bright or somber, like a thin crust on the
-rock. Blue, black, orange, red, brown, green, yellow and other colors.
-These represent another odd plant community. Lichens are a lot tougher
-than the cryptogamic crust, but it seems a shame to walk on them. They
-are algae and fungi that live intertwined lives. Neither can live alone;
-each is utterly dependent upon the other. Such things are called
-“symbiotic” or “symbiotes.” Incidentally, you’re a symbiote, too, in a
-way.
-
-    [Illustration: Crossbedding]
-
-“Crossbedding” is all over the place, and you can see it all through the
-Monument in cliffs, exposed rock faces of many kinds, boulders, etc. It
-is the numerous groups of thin layers of rock intersecting at odd
-angles. They are the result of wind-blown sands drifting across the
-landscape—a very different landscape than that you see. The Cedar Mesa
-Sandstone is largely made up of sands that drifted here in great dunes.
-The loose grains were later covered by more sediments, cemented together
-by other minerals, and are now being uncovered and worn away by erosion.
-With each step, you free grains of sand that have been locked in place
-for about 180 million years. Those grains will now move on, eventually
-to come to rest and again become frozen in time. Rub the sandstone with
-your hand and feel the sand grains break loose.
-
-There is an Indian ruin across the canyon. Can you see it?
-
-The douglasfir community grows on the more shaded side of the canyon,
-for it cannot tolerate the hotter and drier environments on the sunny
-side or on the mesa top. In fact, the tops of most douglasfir growing
-near the cliff rise only to the level of the cliff top. Many have dead
-tops even with the cliffs edge. Hot dry winds from the mesa apparently
-kill the tops of these mountain forest trees, but we’re not really sure
-that’s the reason for the dead tops. Can you think of a better one?
-
-    [Illustration: Douglas Fir]
-
-
-[Number: 5] 0.1 (2.0) Sipapu Bridge viewpoint
-
-Natural bridges are often described in terms like young, mature, and
-old, but the words have nothing to do with age in years. A “young”
-bridge has a great, massive span above a relatively small hole. An “old”
-bridge has a very thin span over a relatively large opening. A “mature”
-bridge is intermediate between young and old. The same terms can be used
-to describe natural arches—which form in a very different manner than do
-bridges. Remember, the terms reflect stages of development, not age in
-years (a mature bridge could be older in years than an old bridge!).
-Sipapu is mature.
-
-    [Illustration: Sipapu Bridge]
-
-
-[Number: 6] 0.8 (2.8) Sipapu Trailhead
-
-You came here to see bridges and you got a good view of one at the last
-stop. Here is an outstanding opportunity for another, but different,
-view of that bridge. Two different views, in fact.
-
-A trail starts here, proceeds about halfway down into the canyon and out
-along a ledge to an outstanding view of this beautiful, graceful bridge.
-It’s a fairly easy walk with guard rails, metal stairs, and other aids.
-You have to climb one short ladder. You can see an ancient Indian ruin,
-may learn quite a bit about the douglasfir community, and will get an
-excellent chance to photograph the bridge. You can walk out and back in
-about half an hour, but you may find that you want to take longer.
-
-About halfway to the viewpoint, another trail takes off and goes right
-down into the canyon. DO NOT take that route unless you’re prepared for
-a much more ambitious hike. You need good footwear (like boots with a
-good sole for rock), drinking water in warm or hot weather, and plenty
-of time (allow 2-3 hours at least). It’s a nice trip and you’ll never
-really appreciate how huge this bridge is unless you stand under it, but
-we do not recommend the hike unless you are physically fit and properly
-prepared.
-
-SPECIAL WARNING: When you make a trip into any canyon in this part of
-the country, beware of flash floods. Even if the weather is fine where
-you are, be on the lookout for thunderstorms or heavy rain upstream from
-your location. If it’s raining upstream, or if great towering clouds are
-building up, STAY OUT OF THE STREAMBED in the bottom of the canyon.
-NEVER CAMP in or next to a streambed in this region, even if it is dry.
-If you get caught by a healthy flash flood, you’re dead.
-
-The following lettered paragraphs are coordinated with numbered stakes
-along the trail to the viewpoint. They help explain features as you see
-them. If you are not taking advantage of the different points of view
-here, turn to page 16. (It’s OK to read the trail guide even if you
-don’t take the walk.)
-
-[Number: 6A] How’s this for a different point of view? It used to be,
-when people wanted to do what you are doing, that they scrambled out on
-the rocks, crawled across these logs and climbed down the tree. That was
-the only way down the cliff. Now you gain access via the stairs, which
-cost a few thousand of your tax dollars. Your dollars, remember, not
-just “Government funds.”
-
-Now, some folks say we ruined the trip, that it’s no fun anymore. Others
-say we should have built wooden stairs, not metal. Some think this is
-fine and a few want nothing less than an elevator or tram. What do you
-think?
-
-How does the difficulty of getting to a place affect your feeling for
-that place? How does it affect your opinion of the people who will not
-(we don’t mean those who can not) do what you are doing right now?
-
-    [Illustration: White Throated Swifts]
-
-[Number: 6B] A thousand years ago this summer, a man stood where you now
-stand and he watched the white throated swifts sweep in and out of
-cracks in the cliff above you. He didn’t know they were white throated
-swifts nor did he care. His main interest was to see if any baby birds
-had fallen from their nests into the pile of manure. Many do, each year,
-and the occupants of this land used any food they could find.
-
-In that 1,000 years, nearly a thousand generations of swifts have come
-and gone. Each year they return, nest in the cracks, wing their way
-through the canyons catching insects, and produce a new generation from
-the stuff of their environment. A thousand generations have passed; the
-swifts are still here. There are neither more nor less than the previous
-owner of the land watched a thousand years ago, and a thousand
-generations have left the environment ready for a thousand more. What of
-us—of Man?
-
-Less than 50 generations of man have passed since the day your
-predecessor watched the birds from this point. Our numbers have
-increased to many times the number there were then and each of us uses
-many times as much from our environment.
-
-Today we endure shortages of food, services and materials. Twenty-five
-years from now there will be twice as many of us. What will become of
-us? In fact, come to think of it, what became of the guy who watched the
-birds 1,000 years ago?
-
-[Number: 6C] A few minutes ago we wrote of a previous owner of this land
-who gathered dead birds. Well, this is his house. It may not look like
-much now (and probably didn’t look an awful lot better then), but it has
-become a little rundown after 1,000 (800, or whatever) years. He may
-have been quite proud of it (it’s bigger than most) and he built it all
-himself. No planes, trains, barges, boats, trucks, or even wheelbarrows.
-In fact, no wheels! A family of Anasazis could have anything they
-wanted, just so long as they could get it by themselves.
-
-    [Illustration: Anasazi Home]
-
-Please do not enter the ruin. In doing so, you can easily and innocently
-damage it. What we call “innocent vandalism” probably results in more
-irreparable damage than is caused by deliberate vandals.
-
-The Anasazis probably did a little farming down in the canyon, growing
-and storing some corn, beans and squash. They gathered wild fruits and
-seeds and made fiber from native plants. They apparently led a difficult
-life, and probably ate anything they could get: lizards, snakes, birds,
-mice, squirrels, rabbits, and rarely a deer or bighorn sheep. Some
-scientists say they also ate each other, but we don’t know if this is
-true.
-
-But the Anasazi lived within certain environmental limitations, just as
-we do. They needed food, water, fuel, and other resources, just as we
-do.
-
-There came a time, about 700 years ago, when the environment here
-changed just a little. Annual rainfall patterns changed, there was a
-serious drought, and other factors may have contributed. Whatever the
-reasons, the Anasazi world changed and Man could no longer survive here.
-Man, ancient or modern, can adapt to a certain range of environmental
-change. There are limits to adaptability, though, and if the changes
-exceed those limits, Man must move to a more suitable place or die. The
-Anasazi moved.
-
-Your environment is changing very rapidly and the changes are world
-wide. Where will you move to?
-
-[Number: 6D] Here it is, Sipapu. In Hopi Indian legend, the Sipapu is a
-passage between two very different worlds. Some visitors see a
-similarity here. Beneath your feet and all around you is a world of
-slickrock: nearly barren expanses of sandstone. But through the Sipapu
-you can see a world of vegetation: a softer, less harsh, more pleasant
-world. One can almost imagine that the Sipapu is a gateway to another
-world.
-
-As you go back up the trail to your car, consider again the different
-points of view along the trail.
-
-    [Illustration: Sipapu Bridge]
-
-
-[Number: 7] 0.3 (3.1) Horse Collar Ruin trailhead
-
-Now here’s an opportunity to adopt a truly different point of view: as
-different as it could be. We’d like you to be an Indian. Even if you
-already are an Indian, this walk will offer a different point of view
-because we want you to be an Anasazi Indian of about 800 years ago.
-
-The trail is easy and has few hazards. Of course, you always have to
-exercise reasonable caution on trails or in any unfamiliar environment,
-but the main thing to beware of on this walk is the cliffs further out
-on the trail. There are abrupt, unfenced drop-offs and you and the kids
-have to be careful around them.
-
-If you take the trail, try to put yourself in the place of a man of 800
-years ago. We know you can’t simply forget your own rich heritage, but
-try for a brief period to set it aside, try to look at the things about
-you from a different point of view.
-
-[Number: 7A] Na’va produces tangy, tart fruits in good seasons. I like
-it; it’s one of the few really tasty things in my diet. You can eat the
-rest of the cactus, too, after you scorch it, but I don’t like it very
-much.
-
-    [Illustration: Prickly pear cactus]
-
-[Number: 7B] Mo’hu is a good plant. We eat the seed pods, which usually
-have tasty grubs in them. My woman braids or twists the leaf fibers and
-makes the nets, cords, and other things a man needs. Mo’vi, the bottom
-of the plant, helps make me clean when I wash with it and cleans me
-inside when I eat it.
-
-[Number: 7C] Ersvi in hot water makes a drink I take when my belly hurts
-or to cure sickness. Many of us, mostly the children, die from
-bellyaches and fevers, but our medicine always makes me well—or it has
-so far, anyway.
-
-    [Illustration: Juniper bark]
-
-[Number: 7D] Na’shu is a really good tree, for you can use it for many
-things. The timber is good building material, and the big seeds are good
-to eat when the cones ripen and open. Some years there are many of them,
-and then the women need not work so long for a supply.
-
-[Number: 7E] Ho’taki is another very good tree, like Na’shu. We pull the
-long, shaggy, coarse ho’lpe from the trunk and branches to line our
-roofs. Shredded very fine, it’s useful for lining our baby’s clothes and
-my woman needs it sometimes. I use the wood for roof beams, too.
-
-[Number: 7F] Owa’si, the rock flowers, are the food of my war gods. We
-do not eat them.
-
-    [Illustration: Lichens]
-
-    [Illustration: Potholes]
-
-[Number: 7G] I drink water from little pools like these, sometimes when
-I have no other water. The water often tastes funny and has bugs in it.
-The deer, bighorn sheep, and other animals drink from these pools, too,
-when there is any water.
-
-[Number: 7H] Almost always, I can find lizards in places like this. Even
-in winter, on warm days, they come out and lie on sunny rocks. Some
-years, when our food is gone in late winter and early spring, I eat
-them—but there isn’t much meat on them.
-
-[Number: 7I] There is our home! When I’m hunting up here, I like to look
-down at our village. It is a good place to live. The sun shines under
-the cliff in winter, warming the whole village, but the cliff shades our
-houses in summer.
-
-The fields along the canyon floor have good crops most years, and our
-storage bins are usually full at the end of summer.
-
-Well, I must leave you now, for I have much to do before dark. Good
-hunting!
-
-You have come out here trying to see the world from the Anasazi point of
-view, we hope, but as you return you may wish to consider a 20th century
-point of view.
-
-The 800-year-old buildings across the canyon and 500 feet below are
-called Horse Collar Ruin. It is a village of several homes, two kivas
-(ceremonial and religious building used by men only), and numerous
-storage bins. It may have been home for about 30 people. The brush
-covered flats along the stream were probably farmed, producing corn,
-beans, and other storable crops. Many other food sources were used;
-native plants and animals were eaten and provided numerous necessary
-“side products.” Hides, bone, horn, feather, bark, wood, etc., were the
-raw materials for many tools, implements and supplies.
-
-Anasazi villages were often located so as to be bathed in winter
-sunshine and shaded in summer. A somewhat more technological use of the
-sun’s energy provides most of the electricity used in the Monument
-today.
-
-    [Illustration: Horse Collar Ruin]
-
-    [Illustration: Map of Natural Bridges National Monument]
-
-    [Illustration: Lizard]
-
-[Number: 7H] You may see lizards just about anywhere in the park. The
-more common varieties in slickrock areas like this are _whiptails_ (very
-sleek, streamlined; tail much longer than body), _eastern fence lizard_
-(rough; spiny; blue patches on throat and belly), _side-blotched lizard_
-(long tail; spiny; blue patch behind front legs).
-
-[Number: 7G] Potholes, or rock pools, are a common feature of flat
-sandstone beds. Some reach great size and depth and not all the steps in
-their development are understood. Once a slight depression is formed by
-erosion, it holds water for a while after each rain. The moisture
-dissolves some cement and encourages more rapid erosion, thus deepening
-the depression. The depression thus holds water longer, and so grows
-faster. Wind may sweep away the loosened sand grains when the pothole is
-dry.
-
-[Number: 7F] Lichens are a “symbiotic” plant association, as you may
-remember. An alga and fungus grow together, each providing to the other
-an element necessary to life. Neither can live alone; each is dependent
-upon the other.
-
-Lichens are rather effective agents of erosion, which seems a bit
-surprising for a thin crust on the rocks, but it’s true. Like most
-plants, lichens tend to make the immediate area more acid. The “cement”
-that holds sand grains together to make sandstone here is very
-susceptible to acid. The lichens create acid conditions, the acid
-dissolves the cement, and the sand grains are freed to blow or wash
-away. And that is what “erosion” is all about.
-
-[Number: 7E] Juniper [Juniperus osteosperma]. Various species of juniper
-are common in the arid southwest. As you climb from desert grasslands to
-higher elevations, the junipers are usually the first trees you see.
-With pinyon pine, they often form a dense “pigmy forest” of short, burly
-trees. At slightly higher elevations, where it is a little cooler and
-moister, ponderosa pine and other trees replace the pinyon-juniper. The
-tiny scale-like needles on the twigs, and abundant bluish berries make
-junipers easy to identify.
-
-    [Illustration: Juniper]
-
-SIDE TRIP: This side trail will take you up to a knoll where you will
-have a 360 degree view of the Monument. It is the only place on your
-tour where you can gain such a view.
-
-    [Illustration: Pinyon]
-
-[Number: 7D] Pinyon [Pinus edulis]. Usually found growing with junipers
-in the pinyon-juniper woodland or pygmy forest. Under ideal conditions,
-pinyon may grow into quite respectable trees! The seeds are still used
-as a staple diet item by Southwestern Indians. As pinyon “nuts,” they
-also find their way into gourmet and specialty food shops. The
-inconspicuous flowers appear in spring and the cones mature a year and a
-half later, in the fall.
-
-    [Illustration: Mormon Tea]
-
-[Number: 7C] Mormon tea [Ephedra viridis]. Used by Indians and pioneers
-as a stimulant and medicine, the beverage is still used as a spring
-tonic by many.
-
-Ephedra is really kind of a neat plant. Like most desert plants, it has
-evolved methods of conserving water. For one thing, it has no leaves.
-Look at it closely—it’s all stem. Plants can lose a lot of water from
-their leaves and many desert plants have leaves modified to reduce water
-loss, but Mormon tea has dispensed with leaves entirely (Well, almost
-entirely: they get very tiny ones in the spring, which soon fall off).
-Plants usually need green leaves to produce food, but Ephedra has many
-green stems that carry out that function.
-
-    [Illustration: Yucca]
-
-[Number: 7B] Yucca [Yucca brevifolia]. The yuccas are very common
-throughout the Southwest, from low desert to mountains. There are many
-species, but they share one great peculiarity. They are symbiotic with a
-little white moth, the Pronuba.
-
-Female Pronubas live in the blossoms. After mating, the moth collects a
-ball of yucca pollen and jams it onto the stigma (female part) of the
-flower. Yucca pollen is heavy and sticky; it doesn’t float around in the
-wind. Other insects do not transport it. The Pronuba insures that the
-plant will produce seeds by fertilizing the blossom and then she lays
-eggs in the base of the flower where the seeds will grow. The larvae
-that hatch from her eggs eat many seeds, but a lot of the seeds mature,
-too. The moth will not lay her eggs anywhere else.
-
-The Pronuba must have yuccas to reproduce. The yuccas must have Pronubas
-to reproduce. Neither can get along without the other.
-
-[Number: 7A] Prickly pear cactus [Opuntia]. Like all desert cactus,
-these are well adapted to the arid environment. Like Ephedra, cactus are
-all stem, have no leaves, and the stems (or “pads”) contain green
-chlorophyll, the critically important element in food production. Cactus
-spines are modified leaves that serve as effective protection, but are
-not functional food producers. When moisture is abundant, cactus pads
-get plump and smooth. During extended dry spells, the pads shrink and
-wrinkle as the plant uses the stored water. How has the weather been
-around here recently? Look at the cactus and you can tell!
-
-
-[Number: 8] 0.5 (4.8)
-
-You won’t get a very good view of Kachina Bridge here, but you will find
-it much easier to understand how bridges are formed if you walk out to
-the canyon rim. There is no trail, but it’s an easy walk without unusual
-hazards other than the ever present cliffs. Remember, DON’T WALK ON THE
-CRYPTOGAMIC CRUST!
-
-    [Illustration: Desert Varnish]
-
-Desert varnish, the dark streaks on the canyon walls, is common in arid
-areas such as this. Each time the rock gets wet, some moisture is
-absorbed by the rock. Water actually seeps into tiny spaces between the
-grains of sand. Later, the moisture is drawn out of the rock and
-evaporated by hot, dry air. While inside the sandstone, however, the
-water dissolves minute amounts of minerals like iron and manganese. When
-the water comes to the rock surface and evaporates, the minerals come
-with it—but the minerals do not evaporate. They accumulate on the
-surface of the rock over thousands of years, slowly forming a very thin
-dark crust.
-
-    [Illustration: White Canyon]
-
-Notice the long, curving, fairly level valley right below you. This is
-an important part of the bridge formation story, for that valley was the
-stream channel before Kachina Bridge was formed. The stream now flows
-through the hole under the bridge, of course, but before there was a
-hole the water had to run around this side of the mass of rock that now
-forms the bridge. Every time White Canyon flooded (which is every time
-it rained very much), the stream cut a little deeper into the base of
-the rock and most of the cutting took place right where the stream was
-forced to turn toward you. As flood waters roared around this curving
-valley, the shape of the canyon also threw them against the downstream
-side of the obstructing wall of rock, so that the stream was eating into
-both sides of a fairly thin wall. It eventually ate right through the
-obstruction, and from then on the stream followed the shorter,
-straighter route. Continued erosion enlarged the opening and cut the
-channel deeper into the canyon. Downcutting of the new channel left this
-old channel high and dry. And there it sits!
-
-Actually, the water coming down Armstrong Canyon (on the left) also
-contributed to bridge development, but we’ll get into that at a later
-stop.
-
-    [Illustration: Kachina Bridge]
-
-
-[Number: 9] 0.3 (5.1) Kachina Bridge, viewpoint and trailhead
-
-Kachina is an excellent example of a young bridge. The thick, heavy span
-crosses a relatively small opening. The span and abutments are massive,
-not slim and graceful.
-
-    [Illustration: Pictographs]
-
-Below the bridge are ancient pictographs (drawings on stone) that some
-people felt represented or at least looked like the Hopi Indian gods
-called Kachinas. So the original name was discarded and “Kachina” was
-substituted.
-
-As at the other bridges, there is a very nice little trail down into the
-canyon. The trail is in good condition, you can walk it without special
-equipment, and it isn’t especially strenuous. It is a bit steep, so
-coming back on a hot day you may find the trip can be tedious. If the
-weather is fairly warm or hot today, you may also want to take water. An
-hour or hour and a half is adequate time to allow for the trip—unless
-you fool around a lot.
-
-[Number: 9A] The Monument landscape is typified by hundreds of ledges
-and shelves separating the cliffs. Nearly all the canyon walls are lined
-with such ledges. That is because the rather hard Cedar Mesa sandstone
-is seamed with many thin layers of relatively soft rock. The softer
-material erodes very much faster, and as it wears away, the rock above
-and below it is also exposed to the elements. As a deep horizontal
-crevice develops, support for the rock above it is removed and chunks
-eventually fall out. In time, a wide ledge (or shelf, or bench, or
-whatever) forms.
-
-All of the above is happening here, right in front of you. This isn’t
-just an interesting formation, it’s a dynamic, continuing process that
-is changing the landscape.
-
-[Number: 9B] The canyon coming around the corner on your left is
-Armstrong Canyon. It joins White Canyon on your right. In front of you
-is a waterfall (or it would be there if any water was flowing) above a
-deep, narrow plunge pool. This type of thing is often called a “nick
-point,” and it is evidence of some abrupt change in the canyon’s
-development. In this case, that change was probably formation of Kachina
-Bridge, which changed the gradient, or steepness, of the stream. The
-water, rushing over the lip and plunging into the pool, quarries out a
-hollow under the lip. In time the lip breaks off, the waterfall moves
-back a few feet, and the process goes on. A similar, but somewhat larger
-nick point is Niagara Falls.
-
-If the canyon is dry today, it may be a little difficult to believe the
-explanation. If you could be here just after a heavy rain, when the
-flood thunders over the rocks at a rate of thousands of gallons each
-second, you would find the whole thing more believable.
-
-    [Illustration: Nick Point]
-
-    [Illustration: Little Arch]
-
-[Number: 9C] This little arch (it’s not a bridge) may not win prizes for
-size, but it is very handy for helping explain bridge or arch growth. A
-bridge is first formed by the action of running water, but much of its
-subsequent growth is like development of an arch. Water seeps into tiny
-cracks, freezes in winter, and pries flakes or blocks of stone loose.
-Alternate heat and cold causes rock to expand and contract and that
-opens little cracks, causes tension, etc. If the rock has natural planes
-in it, it may break away along those lines.
-
-If you look at the underside and sides of this little arch, you can see
-evidence of these processes. Please don’t “help nature along” by prying
-pieces loose.
-
-This arch may not have been here very many centuries, but it is a very
-“old” arch. Thin and delicate, the fragile span over a relatively huge
-opening is near the end of its life.
-
-[Number: 9D] Back when we explained bridge formation and abandoned
-meanders, we said Armstrong Canyon’s run-off played an important role in
-Kachina’s development and that we would explain it “later.”
-
-Well, now is later. Before the opening was formed, while White Canyon
-run-off came around the channel on your right, Armstrong Canyon run-off
-flowed down the channel from your left and rushed right against the rock
-wall that once existed where the opening now is. Flood waters roaring
-down Armstrong would rush out its mouth, cross the White Canyon
-streambed, and smash into that rock wall. Floods carry great loads of
-sediment: sand, gravel, pebbles, rocks and boulders. These are the teeth
-of a flood, the sand and boulders. They are the agents of erosion that
-bang, smash and batter any obstruction. It is a bit like a liquid saw
-with stone teeth. It’s an act of violence, a cataclysm, a ripping and
-tearing. There really isn’t anything nice or gentle about it, but it’s a
-great way to undercut rock walls and gnaw holes in them!
-
-And that is precisely what it did.
-
-Well, that’s about enough for a while. You are more than halfway through
-the Monument and we’ve been telling you what to see, do, and think
-entirely long enough. Go now, and just enjoy the rest of this lovely
-walk. Walk the trail in leisure and peace. At the bridge are ancient
-ruins and irreplaceable prehistoric rock art. Let them speak to you,
-respect them, and consider your long gone predecessors here. Consider
-your place here, too, and the role you play in our beautiful little
-world.
-
-BEWARE! And go cautiously, for there are spirits here that will make you
-part of this land and forever call you back!
-
-    [Illustration: Ancient Ruins and Rock Art]
-
-
-[Number: 10] 2.0 (7.1) Owachomo Bridge viewpoint and trailhead
-
-Owachomo is a lovely bridge. Long, thin, flat; a fragile old bridge
-nearing its logical and inevitable end: collapse. The opening grows very
-slowly under an old bridge. The opening widens as the bridge abutments
-wear away and the overhead span (the bridge itself) becomes thinner and
-thinner, one grain of sand at a time.
-
-The walk down to this bridge is the easiest of all. You can be down and
-back in a half hour (as usual, we recommend that you take longer). It is
-not strenuous, compared with the other two, and it offers some nice
-insights about bridges. In other words, here’s another different point
-of view. Owachomo is sort of a different kind of natural bridge, for it
-was formed differently than the others. We’ll explain that when you get
-down there.
-
-[Number: 10A] We haven’t said very much about wildlife here, mostly
-because you aren’t likely to see much of it. Here however, you can see
-the work of a porcupine. Porcupines like to eat pinyon bark at times,
-and this pinyon must be pretty tasty. The large rodents gnaw at the tree
-to get at the nutritious inner bark, and may in time kill the tree by
-girdling it. The inner bark carries needed food and water between roots
-and leaves (both up and down), and if all the lifelines between the top
-and bottom of the tree are severed, the top will die.
-
-No, we don’t try to “protect” the tree from porcupines. We call this a
-natural area, and that means it is an area where we try to let natural
-events proceed without the interference of man. That isn’t just
-“protection” of things, it’s protection of a system. It just means that
-if the porcupine wants to eat the pinyon, let him do it. It doesn’t mean
-the porcupine is “worth” more than the pine, nor vice versa. Each has
-its own place, its own life, and its own interactions with the rest of
-the world. Just like you do!
-
-[Number: 10B] This is a good place to consider Owachomo’s origin and
-evolution.
-
-Run-off from a large area used to flow down the little canyon (Tuwa
-Canyon) in front of you, along the base of a rock fin, and into
-Armstrong Canyon behind you to your right. Owachomo did not exist; there
-was no natural bridge at that time. Flood waters rushing down this side
-of the fin ate into the base of the fin and flood waters of Armstrong
-Canyon ate into the other side. A hole developed in the fin, creating
-the bridge and allowing Tuwa’s run-off a shorter route to Armstrong.
-
-So, Owachomo was formed by the action of two separate streams, and that
-makes it different from Kachina and Sipapu (and most other natural
-bridges we know about).
-
-    [Illustration: Owachomo Bridge]
-
-Erosion is a continuing, dynamic process; however, stream channels
-gradually change. The run-off from Tuwa no longer flows through the
-little canyon in front of you because there is now a deeper canyon on
-the other side of the bridge fin.
-
-[Number: 10C] Passing the “Unmaintained Trail” sign isn’t like
-abandoning all hope, but it does mean that the trail may be harder to
-follow and that we don’t do as much to protect or help you. Some hikers
-continue from here and go all the way back to Sipapu via the canyon’s
-trail. Many people start at Sipapu and come out this way (which is a lot
-easier), but a few start here and go back. It isn’t really a terribly
-difficult hike, either way, and it is a lot of fun.
-
-Owachomo must once have looked like Kachina—massive, solid, strong.
-Later, it was more like Sipapu—graceful and well balanced. Now it looks
-only like itself and the even more fragile Landscape Arch in Arches
-National Park.
-
-At some time soon, one more grain will fall, a crack will race through
-the stone, and the bridge will be a heap of rubble in the canyon. We’ll
-probably run around and yell a lot when it happens, while the sand
-grains will quietly continue to break free and begin the next phase of
-their existence.
-
-If you decide to walk on under the bridge, look behind the left
-abutment. There, a thin bed of the softer red stone has eroded back
-under the harder stuff of which the bridge is made. As erosion eats into
-the red-bed, removing support from the abutment, the future of the
-bridge becomes less and less secure. Frankly, we always feel a little
-nervous standing under it (where you are now) because it might collapse
-... now!
-
-As you return to your car, be aware that you may hear the death roar of
-Owachomo. The final, critical grain of sand may slip out of place, a
-bird may land on the bridge, or one of your military jets may pass at
-supersonic speed. However it happens, Owachomo must someday fall. And
-its billions of sand grains must continue their journey to another
-resting place, and that’s the way it ought to be.
-
-
-[Number: 11] 1.4 (8.5) Maverick Point View
-
-To your right, across what appears as a fairly level stretch of
-pinyon-juniper forest, the Cedar Mesa sandstone is cut, slashed,
-incised, and divided by a bewildering complex of canyons. Slightly to
-the left of the “flats,” Maverick Point, Bears Ears, and long Elk Ridge
-(named by and for three cowboys with the initials E, L, and K, if you’d
-like another point of view!) form the skyline. Bears Ears, by the way,
-was named by Spanish explorers far to the south, from which point they
-look just like a bear peeking over the ridge.
-
-
-[Number: 12] 0.6 (9.1) Sunset Point
-
-If sunset is imminent, stay right here. Sunsets are sometimes very
-spectacular here.
-
-Now go, and travel in peace, comfort and safety. Come again when the
-Canyon Country calls, if you can, but remember always that it remains
-here waiting, free, beautiful and untamed.
-
-If you have questions about this magnificent land, stop at the Visitor
-Center. The men and women of the National Park Service will be greatly
-pleased to talk with you of this and the 300 other areas they serve for
-you and your children. And their children. And theirs.
-
-    [Illustration: _Sunset Point_]
-
-    [Illustration: Solar Photovoltaic Power System]
-
-
-[Number: 13] Solar Photovoltaic Power System
-
-Most of the electricity used in the Monument is produced by converting
-sunlight directly into electricity. The process seems a little bit like
-magic, but it really does work. The system here is a demonstration of
-the feasibility of supplying small, remotely located communities with
-electricity without using fossil fuels to produce it. This process is
-liable to become very widely used within a decade, so the Natural
-Bridges installation is sort of a peek into the future. Exhibits and
-information leaflet explain the system in detail.
-
-    [Illustration: Map showing national parks and monuments in the Four
-    Corners region]
-
-
-
-
-Transcriber’s Notes
-
-
-—Retained publication information from the printed edition: this eBook
-  is public-domain in the country of publication.
-
-—Corrected a few palpable typos.
-
-—In the text versions only, text in italics is delimited by
-  _underscores_.
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of A Guide to Natural Bridges National
-Monument, Utah, by Anonymous
-
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-
-<pre>
-
-The Project Gutenberg EBook of A Guide to Natural Bridges National
-Monument, Utah, by Anonymous
-
-This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most
-other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions
-whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of
-the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at
-www.gutenberg.org.  If you are not located in the United States, you'll have
-to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook.
-
-Title: A Guide to Natural Bridges National Monument, Utah
-
-Author: Anonymous
-
-Release Date: April 2, 2016 [EBook #51640]
-
-Language: English
-
-Character set encoding: UTF-8
-
-*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK NATURAL BRIDGES NATIONAL MONUMENT, UTAH ***
-
-
-
-
-Produced by Stephen Hutcheson, Dave Morgan and the Online
-Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net
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-</pre>
-
-<div id="cover" class="img">
-<img id="coverpage" src="images/cover.jpg" alt="A Guide to Natural Bridges National Monument, Utah" width="766" height="500" />
-</div>
-<div class="box">
-<h1>A Guide to
-<br />Natural Bridges
-<br />National Monument,
-<br />Utah</h1>
-<p class="tbcenter"><span class="smaller">book designed and produced by visual communication center inc. denver, colorado</span></p>
-</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig1">
-<img src="images/p001.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="333" />
-<p class="pcap"><span>Published by the Canyonlands Natural History Association, an independent, non-profit corporation organized to complement the educational and environmental programs of the National Park Service.</span></p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_1">1</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig2">
-<img src="images/p002.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="361" />
-<p class="pcap"><i>Visitor Center</i></p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_2">2</div>
-<h2 id="c1"><span class="small">INTRODUCTION</span></h2>
-<p>Welcome to Natural Bridges
-National Monument. We hope you
-can take the time to enjoy a relaxed,
-leisurely visit to the area and that this
-Guide will help you to do so. If you
-are like most visitors, you came here
-specifically to see the three great
-bridges. If that is all that you want to
-do, you can get through the area in
-less than two hours.</p>
-<p>We suggest, however, that you plan
-on spending more time here (if that&rsquo;s
-possible in your situation). There are
-more things here to see and do, and
-more ways to look at the bridges, than
-you may have realized. You have
-invested time and money to get here
-and you will gain a better return on
-those investments if you can take a bit
-more time to visit the Monument.</p>
-<p>As you drive along the road, you
-will occasionally find small parking
-areas with numbered posts that look
-like this:</p>
-<div class="img">
-<img src="images/p002a.jpg" alt="Parking-area numbered post" width="400" height="316" />
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_3">3</div>
-<p>The numbers on the posts refer to
-numbered sections of this Guide, and
-each section starts off something like
-this:</p>
-<h3 id="c2"><span class="mm1"><span>4</span></span> 1.7 (4.8) <b>Meander Viewpoint</b></h3>
-<p>In the above example 4. is the
-stop number; this is the fourth stop
-on the trip, 1.7 is the distance (miles)
-from the previous stop, (4.8) is the
-mileage from the start of trip at the
-Visitor Center, and <b>boldface words</b>
-are the name of the stop.</p>
-<p>Some sites are not described in the
-Guide; there are parking places
-without numbered posts. There are
-scenic views or other points of interest
-at these places, but we thought we&rsquo;d
-leave some sites for you to &ldquo;do your
-own thing,&rdquo; if you wish.</p>
-<p>At any stop, numbered or not, you
-must exercise care for your own and
-your children&rsquo;s safety and you must be
-reasonable in your use of the park.
-There are many unfenced cliffs you
-can fall off, rocks you can trip over,
-and other natural hazards that could
-injure or kill you. We will remind you
-now and then about them, but we
-can&rsquo;t protect you from every hazard.
-You have to do your part, too. Being
-reasonable in using the park involves
-things like not throwing rocks off cliffs
-(there may be someone below you),
-not entering or climbing on prehistoric
-ruins, not defacing things, and stuff
-like that.</p>
-<p>Actually, if you and the Monument
-are both undamaged by your visit, we
-should all be very pleased that you
-chose to come here today.</p>
-<p>Your visit to the bridges really
-begins in the Visitor Center. If you
-look over the exhibits, attend the slide
-program, and ask the Information
-Desk Ranger any questions you may
-have, you will have begun to collect
-data that should make the entire trip
-more pleasant. Then, with the
-preliminaries taken care of, step out
-the <b>back</b> door and walk to your right.
-From that point you and this guide are
-on your own.</p>
-<p class="tbcenter">HAVE A NICE DAY!</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_4">4</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig3">
-<img src="images/p003.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="483" />
-<p class="pcap">Bears Ears</p>
-</div>
-<h3 id="c3">The Bears Ears.</h3>
-<p>The two buttes
-rising above Elk Ridge on the skyline
-are called the Bears Ears. If you have
-ever looked at a bear at all closely,
-you may wonder why the buttes are
-called Bears Ears. Well, we wonder
-about that sometimes, too, for they
-don&rsquo;t look at all like the ears of a bear.
-&ldquo;Bears Ears&rdquo; is the officially approved
-name, but that name was bestowed by
-someone looking at the buttes from
-another angle. Seen from one point of
-view, physical features may appear
-completely different than from another
-point of view. Ideas are like that, too,
-in many cases. If we can look at things
-(including ideas) from a different point
-of view, we may better understand
-them.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_5">5</div>
-<p>So, we have tried to arrange this
-Guide in a way that allows you to
-experiment with a few things that you
-did not intend to do. The great
-majority of visitors here drive in, look
-at the three bridges and then drive
-out. You can still do that, of course,
-but this booklet suggests some
-additional things which we hope will
-add to your enjoyment of the
-Monument.</p>
-<p>The first stop along the road is 1.4
-miles from here.</p>
-<h3 id="c4"><span class="mm1"><span>2</span></span> 1.4 (1.4) <b>Sphinx Rock</b></h3>
-<p>This is another of those different
-point of view things. The guy who
-named this was looking at it from
-upper White Canyon. From that point
-of view (the opposite of yours) the
-resemblance to ancient Egyptian
-figures make the name quite
-reasonable, whereas from this side it
-makes no sense at all.</p>
-<p>The light-colored, nearly white rock
-all over the place is Cedar Mesa
-Sandstone, a relatively hard, fine-grained
-rock. Scattered through it are
-thin layers of dark red shale rock
-which is much softer because it
-contains a lot of muddy silt. The softer
-red beds erode, or wear away, much
-more quickly than the hard white
-rock.</p>
-<p>The long black or dark streaks on
-the rocks are desert varnish, a
-common occurrence here which we&rsquo;ll
-explain at a <a href="#varnish">later stop</a>.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_6">6</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig4">
-<img src="images/p004.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="390" />
-<p class="pcap">Sphinx Rock</p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_7">7</div>
-<h3 id="c5"><span class="mm1"><span>3</span></span> 0.2 (1.6)</h3>
-<p>This is a nice place to
-try a different point of view. You
-came here to see the bridges, but at
-this stop why not get out and look at
-some other things of interest. You
-have to be careful scrambling over the
-rocks (the little arrow signs mark a
-fairly good route) and when you get
-out near the clifftop be <b>very</b> cautious,
-but there&rsquo;s a beautiful view of the
-canyon. You can also see cryptogamic
-crust: a dark brown or black crusty
-layer on the soil, it is actually a very
-delicate plant community. DON&rsquo;T
-WALK ON IT! Hop from rock to rock
-or follow the little drainages of bare
-sand. The cryptogamic soil is a combination
-of algae, fungi, lichens, and
-other odd plants, all dependent upon
-each other for some factor necessary
-to their lives.</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig5">
-<img src="images/p005.jpg" alt="" width="618" height="600" />
-<p class="pcap">Cryptogamic Crust; Detail</p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_8">8</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig6">
-<img src="images/p005a.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="559" />
-<p class="pcap">Douglas Fir</p>
-</div>
-<p>You will see a lot of it in the
-Monument; be careful not to damage
-it. A single footstep can destroy 25,
-50 or 100 years of growth.</p>
-<p>Ravens are a frequent sight in the
-canyon, flying or soaring along the
-cliffs. Big and black, they are readily
-recognized. More often, their throaty
-croaking call is heard and that&rsquo;s easy
-to recognize, too.</p>
-<p>As you look along the canyon sides
-(not down in the bottom), note the
-trees on the slope and ledges&mdash;they&rsquo;re
-different. Different from the
-stocky pinyon and juniper on top and
-different from the leafy green cottonwoods
-in the bottom. The tall,
-Christmas-tree-shaped evergreens are
-douglasfir. See any on the other side
-of the canyon? How about that? Why
-do they grow on only one side of the
-canyon?</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_9">9</div>
-<h3 id="c6"><span class="mm1"><span>4</span></span> 0.3 (1.9)</h3>
-<p>This is another different
-point of view. You&rsquo;ve come only
-a little way, you look at the same
-things (plus a few new ones), but it&rsquo;s
-different.</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig7">
-<img src="images/p006.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="544" />
-<p class="pcap">Lichens</p>
-</div>
-<p>Lichens: Patches of color, bright or
-somber, like a thin crust on the rock.
-Blue, black, orange, red, brown,
-green, yellow and other colors. These
-represent another odd plant
-community. Lichens are a lot tougher
-than the cryptogamic crust, but it
-seems a shame to walk on them. They
-are algae and fungi that live
-intertwined lives. Neither can live
-alone; each is utterly dependent upon
-the other. Such things are called
-&ldquo;symbiotic&rdquo; or &ldquo;symbiotes.&rdquo;
-Incidentally, you&rsquo;re a symbiote, too, in
-a way.</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig8">
-<img src="images/p006a.jpg" alt="" width="796" height="474" />
-<p class="pcap">Crossbedding</p>
-</div>
-<p>&ldquo;Crossbedding&rdquo; is all over the place,
-and you can see it all through the
-Monument in cliffs, exposed rock faces
-of many kinds, boulders, etc. It is the
-numerous groups of thin layers of rock
-intersecting at odd angles. They are
-the result of wind-blown sands drifting
-across the landscape&mdash;a very different
-landscape than that you see. The
-Cedar Mesa Sandstone is largely made
-up of sands that drifted here in great
-dunes. The loose grains were later
-covered by more sediments, cemented
-<span class="pb" id="Page_10">10</span>
-together by other minerals, and are
-now being uncovered and worn away
-by erosion. With each step, you free
-grains of sand that have been locked
-in place for about 180 million years.
-Those grains will now move on,
-eventually to come to rest and again
-become frozen in time. Rub the
-sandstone with your hand and feel the
-sand grains break loose.</p>
-<p>There is an Indian ruin across the
-canyon. Can you see it?</p>
-<p>The douglasfir community grows on
-the more shaded side of the canyon,
-for it cannot tolerate the hotter and
-drier environments on the sunny side
-or on the mesa top. In fact, the tops
-of most douglasfir growing near the
-cliff rise only to the level of the cliff
-top. Many have dead tops even with
-the cliffs edge. Hot dry winds from
-the mesa <b>apparently</b> kill the tops of
-these mountain forest trees, but we&rsquo;re
-not really sure that&rsquo;s the reason for the
-dead tops. Can you think of a better
-one?</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig9">
-<img src="images/p006b.jpg" alt="" width="799" height="581" />
-<p class="pcap">Douglas Fir</p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_11">11</div>
-<h3 id="c7"><span class="mm1"><span>5</span></span> 0.1 (2.0) <b>Sipapu Bridge viewpoint</b></h3>
-<p>Natural bridges are often
-described in terms like young, mature,
-and old, but the words have nothing
-to do with age in years. A &ldquo;young&rdquo;
-bridge has a great, massive span
-above a relatively small hole. An &ldquo;old&rdquo;
-bridge has a very thin span over a
-relatively large opening. A &ldquo;mature&rdquo;
-bridge is intermediate between young
-and old. The same terms can be used
-to describe natural arches&mdash;which form
-in a very different manner than do
-bridges. Remember, the terms reflect
-stages of development, not age in
-years (a mature bridge could be older
-in years than an old bridge!). Sipapu is
-mature.</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig10">
-<img src="images/p007.jpg" alt="" width="690" height="500" />
-<p class="pcap">Sipapu Bridge</p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_12">12</div>
-<h3 id="c8"><span class="mm1"><span>6</span></span> 0.8 (2.8) <b>Sipapu Trailhead</b></h3>
-<p>You came here to see bridges
-and you got a good view of one at the
-last stop. Here is an outstanding
-opportunity for another, but different,
-view of that bridge. Two different
-views, in fact.</p>
-<p>A trail starts here, proceeds about
-halfway down into the canyon and out
-along a ledge to an outstanding view
-of this beautiful, graceful bridge. It&rsquo;s a
-fairly easy walk with guard rails, metal
-stairs, and other aids. You have to
-climb one short ladder. You can see
-an ancient Indian ruin, may learn
-quite a bit about the douglasfir
-community, and will get an excellent
-chance to photograph the bridge. You
-can walk out and back in about half
-an hour, but you may find that you
-want to take longer.</p>
-<p>About halfway to the viewpoint,
-another trail takes off and goes right
-down into the canyon. DO NOT take
-that route unless you&rsquo;re prepared for a
-much more ambitious hike. You need
-good footwear (like boots with a good
-sole for rock), drinking water in warm
-or hot weather, and plenty of time
-(allow 2-3 hours at least). It&rsquo;s a nice
-trip and you&rsquo;ll never really appreciate
-how huge this bridge is unless you
-stand under it, but we do not
-recommend the hike unless you are
-physically fit and properly prepared.</p>
-<p>SPECIAL WARNING: When you
-make a trip into <b>any</b> canyon in this
-part of the country, beware of flash
-floods. Even if the weather is fine
-where <b>you</b> are, be on the lookout for
-thunderstorms or heavy rain upstream
-from your location. If it&rsquo;s raining
-upstream, or if great towering clouds
-are building up, STAY OUT OF THE
-STREAMBED in the bottom of the
-canyon. NEVER CAMP in or next to
-a streambed in this region, even if it is
-dry. If you get caught by a healthy
-flash flood, you&rsquo;re dead.</p>
-<p>The following lettered paragraphs
-are coordinated with numbered stakes
-along the trail to the viewpoint. They
-help explain features as you see them.
-If you are not taking advantage of the
-different points of view here, turn to
-<a href="#Page_16">page 16</a>. (It&rsquo;s OK to read the trail
-guide even if you don&rsquo;t take the walk.)</p>
-<p><span class="mm2"><span>6<br />A</span></span>
-How&rsquo;s this for a different point of
-view? It used to be, when people
-wanted to do what you are doing, that
-they scrambled out on the rocks,
-crawled across these logs and climbed
-down the tree. That was the <b>only</b> way
-down the cliff. Now you gain access
-via the stairs, which cost a few
-thousand of your tax dollars. <b>Your</b>
-dollars, remember, not just
-&ldquo;Government funds.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>Now, some folks say we ruined the
-trip, that it&rsquo;s no fun anymore. Others
-say we should have built wooden
-stairs, not metal. Some think this is
-fine and a few want nothing less than
-an elevator or tram. What do you
-think?</p>
-<p>How does the difficulty of getting to
-a place affect your feeling for that
-place? How does it affect your opinion
-of the people who will not (we don&rsquo;t
-mean those who <b>can</b> not) do what
-you are doing right now?</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_13">13</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig11">
-<img src="images/p008.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="371" />
-<p class="pcap">White Throated Swifts</p>
-</div>
-<p><span class="mm2"><span>6<br />B</span></span>
-A thousand years ago this
-summer, a man stood where you
-now stand and he watched the white
-throated swifts sweep in and out of
-cracks in the cliff above you. He didn&rsquo;t
-know they were white throated swifts
-nor did he care. His main interest was
-to see if any baby birds had fallen
-from their nests into the pile of
-manure. Many do, each year, and the
-occupants of this land used any food
-they could find.</p>
-<p>In that 1,000 years, nearly a
-thousand generations of swifts have
-come and gone. Each year they
-return, nest in the cracks, wing their
-way through the canyons catching
-insects, and produce a new generation
-from the stuff of their environment. A
-thousand generations have passed; the
-swifts are still here. There are neither
-more nor less than the previous owner
-of the land watched a thousand years
-ago, and a thousand generations have
-left the environment ready for a
-thousand more. What of us&mdash;of Man?</p>
-<p>Less than 50 generations of man
-have passed since the day your
-predecessor watched the birds from
-this point. Our numbers have
-increased to many times the number
-there were then and each of us uses
-many times as much from our
-environment.</p>
-<p>Today we endure shortages of food,
-services and materials. Twenty-five
-years from now there will be twice as
-many of us. What will become of us?
-In fact, come to think of it, what
-became of the guy who watched the
-birds 1,000 years ago?</p>
-<p><span class="mm2"><span>6<br />C</span></span>
-A few minutes ago we wrote of a
-previous owner of this land who
-gathered dead birds. Well, this is his
-house. It may not look like much now
-(and probably didn&rsquo;t look an awful lot
-better then), but it has become a little
-rundown after 1,000 (800, or
-whatever) years. He may have been
-quite proud of it (it&rsquo;s bigger than most)
-<span class="pb" id="Page_14">14</span>
-and he built it all himself. No planes,
-trains, barges, boats, trucks, or even
-wheelbarrows. In fact, no wheels! A
-family of Anasazis could have anything
-they wanted, just so long as they
-could get it by themselves.</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig12">
-<img src="images/p008a.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="566" />
-<p class="pcap">Anasazi Home</p>
-</div>
-<p>Please do not enter the ruin. In
-doing so, you can easily and
-innocently damage it. What we call
-&ldquo;innocent vandalism&rdquo; probably results
-in more irreparable damage than is
-caused by deliberate vandals.</p>
-<p>The Anasazis probably did a little
-farming down in the canyon, growing
-and storing some corn, beans and
-squash. They gathered wild fruits and
-seeds and made fiber from native
-plants. They apparently led a difficult
-life, and probably ate anything they
-could get: lizards, snakes, birds, mice,
-squirrels, rabbits, and rarely a deer or
-bighorn sheep. Some scientists say
-they also ate each other, but we don&rsquo;t
-know if this is true.</p>
-<p>But the Anasazi lived within certain
-environmental limitations, just as we
-do. They needed food, water, fuel,
-and other resources, just as we do.</p>
-<p>There came a time, about 700 years
-ago, when the environment here
-changed just a little. Annual rainfall
-patterns changed, there was a serious
-drought, and other factors may have
-<span class="pb" id="Page_15">15</span>
-contributed. Whatever the reasons, the
-Anasazi world changed and Man could
-no longer survive here. Man, ancient
-or modern, can adapt to a certain
-range of environmental change. There
-are limits to adaptability, though, and
-if the changes exceed those limits,
-Man must move to a more suitable
-place or die. The Anasazi moved.</p>
-<p>Your environment is changing very
-rapidly and the changes are world
-wide. Where will you move to?</p>
-<p><span class="mm2"><span>6<br />D</span></span>
-Here it is, Sipapu. In Hopi Indian
-legend, the Sipapu is a passage
-between two very different worlds.
-Some visitors see a similarity here.
-Beneath your feet and all around you
-is a world of slickrock: nearly barren
-expanses of sandstone. But through
-the Sipapu you can see a world of
-vegetation: a softer, less harsh, more
-pleasant world. One can almost
-imagine that the Sipapu is a gateway
-to another world.</p>
-<p>As you go back up the trail to your
-car, consider again the different points
-of view along the trail.</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig13">
-<img src="images/p009.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="793" />
-<p class="pcap">Sipapu Bridge</p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_16">16</div>
-<h3 id="c9"><span class="mm1"><span>7</span></span> 0.3 (3.1) <b>Horse Collar Ruin trailhead</b></h3>
-<p>Now here&rsquo;s an opportunity to adopt
-a truly different point of view: as
-different as it could be. We&rsquo;d like you
-to be an Indian. Even if you already
-are an Indian, this walk will offer a
-different point of view because we
-want you to be an Anasazi Indian of
-about 800 years ago.</p>
-<p>The trail is easy and has few
-hazards. Of course, you <b>always</b> have
-to exercise reasonable caution on trails
-or in any unfamiliar environment, but
-the main thing to beware of on this
-walk is the cliffs further out on the
-trail. There are abrupt, unfenced drop-offs
-and you and the kids have to be
-careful around them.</p>
-<p>If you take the trail, try to put
-yourself in the place of a man of 800
-years ago. We know you can&rsquo;t simply
-forget your own rich heritage, but try
-for a brief period to set it aside, try to
-look at the things about you from a
-different point of view.</p>
-<p><span class="mm2"><span>7<br />A</span></span>
-Na&rsquo;va produces tangy, tart fruits
-in good seasons. I like it; it&rsquo;s one
-of the few really tasty things in my
-diet. You can eat the rest of the
-cactus, too, after you scorch it, but I
-don&rsquo;t like it very much.</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig14">
-<img src="images/p009a.jpg" alt="" width="602" height="500" />
-<p class="pcap">Prickly pear cactus</p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_17">17</div>
-<p><span class="mm2"><span>7<br />B</span></span>
-Mo&rsquo;hu is a good plant. We eat
-the seed pods, which usually
-have tasty grubs in them. My woman
-braids or twists the leaf fibers and
-makes the nets, cords, and other
-things a man needs. Mo&rsquo;vi, the bottom
-of the plant, helps make me clean
-when I wash with it and cleans me
-inside when I eat it.</p>
-<p><span class="mm2"><span>7<br />C</span></span>
-Ersvi in hot water makes a drink I
-take when my belly hurts or to
-cure sickness. Many of us, mostly the
-children, die from bellyaches and
-fevers, but our medicine always makes
-me well&mdash;or it has so far, anyway.</p>
-<div class="img">
-<img src="images/p010.jpg" alt="Juniper bark" width="640" height="600" />
-</div>
-<p><span class="mm2"><span>7<br />D</span></span>
-Na&rsquo;shu is a really good tree, for
-you can use it for many things.
-The timber is good building material,
-and the big seeds are good to eat
-<span class="pb" id="Page_18">18</span>
-when the cones ripen and open.
-Some years there are many of them,
-and then the women need not work
-so long for a supply.</p>
-<p><span class="mm2"><span>7<br />E</span></span>
-Ho&rsquo;taki is another very good tree,
-like Na&rsquo;shu. We pull the long,
-shaggy, coarse ho&rsquo;lpe from the trunk
-and branches to line our roofs.
-Shredded very fine, it&rsquo;s useful for
-lining our baby&rsquo;s clothes and my
-woman needs it sometimes. I use the
-wood for roof beams, too.</p>
-<p><span class="mm2"><span>7<br />F</span></span>
-Owa&rsquo;si, the rock flowers, are the
-food of my war gods. We do not
-eat them.</p>
-<div class="img">
-<img src="images/p010a.jpg" alt="Lichens" width="691" height="600" />
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_19">19</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig15">
-<img src="images/p011.jpg" alt="" width="650" height="300" />
-<p class="pcap">Potholes</p>
-</div>
-<p><span class="mm2"><span>7<br />G</span></span>
-I drink water from little pools like
-these, sometimes when I have no
-other water. The water often tastes
-funny and has bugs in it. The deer,
-bighorn sheep, and other animals
-drink from these pools, too, when
-there is any water.</p>
-<p><span class="mm2"><span>7<br />H</span></span>
-Almost always, I can find lizards
-in places like this. Even in winter,
-on warm days, they come out and lie
-on sunny rocks. Some years, when
-our food is gone in late winter and
-early spring, I eat them&mdash;but there
-isn&rsquo;t much meat on them.</p>
-<p><span class="mm2"><span>7<br />I</span></span>
-There is our home! When I&rsquo;m
-hunting up here, I like to look
-down at our village. It is a good place
-to live. The sun shines under the cliff
-in winter, warming the whole village,
-but the cliff shades our houses in
-summer.</p>
-<p>The fields along the canyon floor
-have good crops most years, and our
-storage bins are usually full at the end
-of summer.</p>
-<p>Well, I must leave you now, for I
-have much to do before dark. Good
-hunting!</p>
-<p>You have come out here trying to
-see the world from the Anasazi point
-of view, we hope, but as you return
-you may wish to consider a 20th
-century point of view.</p>
-<p>The 800-year-old buildings across
-the canyon and 500 feet below are
-called Horse Collar Ruin. It is a village
-of several homes, two kivas
-(ceremonial and religious building used
-by men only), and numerous storage
-bins. It may have been home for
-about 30 people. The brush covered
-flats along the stream were probably
-farmed, producing corn, beans, and
-other storable crops. Many other food
-sources were used; native plants and
-animals were eaten and provided
-numerous necessary &ldquo;side products.&rdquo;
-Hides, bone, horn, feather, bark,
-wood, etc., were the raw materials for
-many tools, implements and supplies.</p>
-<p>Anasazi villages were often located
-so as to be bathed in winter sunshine
-and shaded in summer. A somewhat
-more technological use of the sun&rsquo;s
-energy provides most of the electricity
-used in the Monument today.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_21">21</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig16">
-<img src="images/p011a.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="499" />
-<p class="pcap">Horse Collar Ruin</p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_22">22</div>
-<div class="img">
-<img src="images/p012.jpg" alt="Map of Natural Bridges National Monument" width="800" height="521" />
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_23">23</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig17">
-<img src="images/p012a.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="369" />
-<p class="pcap">Lizard</p>
-</div>
-<p><span class="mm2"><span>7<br />H</span></span>
-You may see lizards just about
-anywhere in the park. The more
-common varieties in slickrock areas
-like this are <b><i>whiptails</i></b> (very sleek,
-streamlined; tail much longer than
-body), <b><i>eastern fence lizard</i></b> (rough;
-spiny; blue patches on throat and
-belly), <b><i>side-blotched lizard</i></b> (long tail;
-spiny; blue patch behind front legs).</p>
-<p><span class="mm2"><span>7<br />G</span></span>
-Potholes, or rock pools, are a
-common feature of flat sandstone
-beds. Some reach great size and depth
-and not all the steps in their development
-are understood. Once a slight
-depression is formed by erosion, it
-holds water for a while after each rain.
-The moisture dissolves some cement
-and encourages more rapid erosion,
-thus deepening the depression. The
-depression thus holds water longer,
-and so grows faster. Wind may sweep
-away the loosened sand grains when
-the pothole is dry.</p>
-<p><span class="mm2"><span>7<br />F</span></span>
-Lichens are a &ldquo;symbiotic&rdquo; plant
-association, as you may
-remember. An alga and fungus grow
-together, each providing to the other
-an element necessary to life. Neither
-can live alone; each is dependent
-upon the other.</p>
-<p>Lichens are rather effective agents
-of erosion, which seems a bit surprising
-for a thin crust on the rocks,
-but it&rsquo;s true. Like most plants, lichens
-tend to make the immediate area
-more acid. The &ldquo;cement&rdquo; that holds
-sand grains together to make sandstone
-here is very susceptible to acid.
-The lichens create acid conditions, the
-acid dissolves the cement, and the
-sand grains are freed to blow or wash
-away. And <b>that</b> is what &ldquo;erosion&rdquo; is all
-about.</p>
-<p><span class="mm2"><span>7<br />E</span></span>
-Juniper [<b>Juniperus
-osteosperma</b>]. Various species of
-juniper are common in the arid
-southwest. As you climb from desert
-grasslands to higher elevations, the
-junipers are usually the first trees you
-see. With pinyon pine, they often
-form a dense &ldquo;pigmy forest&rdquo; of short,
-burly trees. At slightly higher elevations,
-where it is a little cooler and
-moister, ponderosa pine and other
-trees replace the pinyon-juniper. The
-tiny scale-like needles on the twigs,
-and abundant bluish berries make
-junipers easy to identify.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_24">24</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig18">
-<img src="images/p013.jpg" alt="" width="436" height="600" />
-<p class="pcap">Juniper</p>
-</div>
-<p>SIDE TRIP: This side trail will take
-you up to a knoll where you will have
-a 360 degree view of the Monument.
-It is the only place on your tour where
-you can gain such a view.</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig19">
-<img src="images/p013a.jpg" alt="" width="438" height="600" />
-<p class="pcap">Pinyon</p>
-</div>
-<p><span class="mm2"><span>7<br />D</span></span>
-Pinyon <b>[Pinus edulis]</b>. Usually
-found growing with junipers in the
-pinyon-juniper woodland or pygmy
-forest. Under ideal conditions, pinyon
-may grow into quite respectable trees!
-The seeds are still used as a staple diet
-item by Southwestern Indians. As
-pinyon &ldquo;nuts,&rdquo; they also find their way
-into gourmet and specialty food shops.
-The inconspicuous flowers appear in
-spring and the cones mature a year
-and a half later, in the fall.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_25">25</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig20">
-<img src="images/p014.jpg" alt="" width="599" height="400" />
-<p class="pcap">Mormon Tea</p>
-</div>
-<p><span class="mm2"><span>7<br />C</span></span>
-Mormon tea [<b>Ephedra viridis</b>].
-Used by Indians and pioneers as
-a stimulant and medicine, the
-beverage is still used as a spring tonic
-by many.</p>
-<p>Ephedra is really kind of a neat
-plant. Like most desert plants, it has
-evolved methods of conserving water.
-For one thing, it has no leaves. Look
-at it closely&mdash;it&rsquo;s all stem. Plants can
-lose a lot of water from their leaves
-and many desert plants have leaves
-modified to reduce water loss, but
-Mormon tea has dispensed with leaves
-entirely (Well, almost entirely: they get
-very tiny ones in the spring, which
-soon fall off). Plants usually need
-green leaves to produce food, but
-Ephedra has many green stems that
-carry out that function.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_26">26</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig21">
-<img src="images/p014a.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="630" />
-<p class="pcap">Yucca</p>
-</div>
-<p><span class="mm2"><span>7<br />B</span></span>
-Yucca [<b>Yucca brevifolia</b>]. The
-yuccas are very common
-throughout the Southwest, from low
-desert to mountains. There are many
-species, but they share one great
-peculiarity. They are symbiotic with a
-little white moth, the Pronuba.</p>
-<p>Female Pronubas live in the
-blossoms. After mating, the moth
-collects a ball of yucca pollen and jams
-it onto the stigma (female part) of the
-flower. Yucca pollen is heavy and
-sticky; it doesn&rsquo;t float around in the
-wind. Other insects do not transport it.
-The Pronuba insures that the plant will
-produce seeds by fertilizing the
-blossom and then she lays eggs in the
-base of the flower where the seeds will
-grow. The larvae that hatch from her
-eggs eat many seeds, but a lot of the
-seeds mature, too. The moth will not
-lay her eggs anywhere else.</p>
-<p>The Pronuba <b>must</b> have yuccas to
-reproduce. The yuccas <b>must</b> have
-Pronubas to reproduce. Neither can
-get along without the other.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_27">27</div>
-<p><span class="mm2"><span>7<br />A</span></span>
-Prickly pear cactus [<b>Opuntia</b>].
-Like all desert cactus, these are
-well adapted to the arid environment.
-Like Ephedra, cactus are all stem,
-have no leaves, and the stems (or
-&ldquo;pads&rdquo;) contain green chlorophyll, the
-critically important element in food
-production. Cactus spines are
-modified leaves that serve as effective
-protection, but are not functional food
-producers. When moisture is
-abundant, cactus pads get plump and
-smooth. During extended dry spells,
-the pads shrink and wrinkle as the
-plant uses the stored water. How has
-the weather been around here
-recently? Look at the cactus and you
-can tell!</p>
-<h3 id="c10"><span class="mm1"><span>8</span></span> 0.5 (4.8)</h3>
-<p>You won&rsquo;t get a very
-good view of Kachina Bridge
-here, but you will find it much easier
-to understand how bridges are formed
-if you walk out to the canyon rim.
-There is no trail, but it&rsquo;s an easy walk
-without unusual hazards other than
-the ever present cliffs. Remember,
-DON&rsquo;T WALK ON THE CRYPTOGAMIC
-CRUST!</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig22">
-<img src="images/p015.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="417" />
-<p class="pcap">Desert Varnish</p>
-</div>
-<p><a id="varnish">Desert</a> varnish, the dark streaks on
-the canyon walls, is common in arid
-areas such as this. Each time the rock
-gets wet, some moisture is absorbed
-by the rock. Water actually seeps into
-tiny spaces between the grains of
-sand. Later, the moisture is drawn out
-of the rock and evaporated by hot,
-dry air. While inside the sandstone,
-however, the water dissolves minute
-amounts of minerals like iron and
-manganese. When the water comes to
-the rock surface and evaporates, the
-minerals come with it&mdash;but the
-<span class="pb" id="Page_28">28</span>
-minerals do not evaporate. They
-accumulate on the surface of the rock
-over thousands of years, slowly forming
-a very thin dark crust.</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig23">
-<img src="images/p015a.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="434" />
-<p class="pcap">White Canyon</p>
-</div>
-<p>Notice the long, curving, fairly level
-valley right below you. This is an
-important part of the bridge formation
-story, for that valley was the stream
-channel before Kachina Bridge was
-formed. The stream now flows
-through the hole under the bridge, of
-course, but before there was a hole
-the water had to run around this side
-of the mass of rock that now forms the
-bridge. Every time White Canyon
-flooded (which is every time it rained
-very much), the stream cut a little
-deeper into the base of the rock and
-most of the cutting took place right
-where the stream was forced to turn
-toward you. As flood waters roared
-around this curving valley, the shape
-of the canyon also threw them against
-the downstream side of the obstructing
-wall of rock, so that the stream was
-eating into both sides of a fairly thin
-wall. It eventually ate right through the
-obstruction, and from then on the
-stream followed the shorter, straighter
-route. Continued erosion enlarged the
-opening and cut the channel deeper
-into the canyon. Downcutting of the
-new channel left this old channel high
-and dry. And there it sits!</p>
-<p>Actually, the water coming down
-Armstrong Canyon (on the left) also
-contributed to bridge development, but
-we&rsquo;ll get into that at a <a href="#armstrong">later stop</a>.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_29">29</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig24">
-<img src="images/p016.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="507" />
-<p class="pcap">Kachina Bridge</p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_30">30</div>
-<h3 id="c11"><span class="mm1"><span>9</span></span> 0.3 (5.1) <b>Kachina Bridge, viewpoint and trailhead</b></h3>
-<p>Kachina is an excellent example of a
-young bridge. The thick, heavy span
-crosses a relatively small opening. The
-span and abutments are massive, not
-slim and graceful.</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig25">
-<img src="images/p016a.jpg" alt="" width="519" height="463" />
-<p class="pcap">Pictographs</p>
-</div>
-<p>Below the bridge are ancient
-pictographs (drawings on stone) that
-some people felt represented or at
-least looked like the Hopi Indian gods
-called Kachinas. So the original name
-was discarded and &ldquo;Kachina&rdquo; was
-substituted.</p>
-<p>As at the other bridges, there is a
-very nice little trail down into the
-canyon. The trail is in good condition,
-you can walk it without special
-equipment, and it isn&rsquo;t especially
-strenuous. It is a bit steep, so coming
-back on a hot day you may find the
-trip can be tedious. If the weather is
-fairly warm or hot today, you may
-also want to take water. An hour or
-hour and a half is adequate time to
-allow for the trip&mdash;unless you fool
-around a lot.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_31">31</div>
-<p><span class="mm2"><span>9<br />A</span></span>
-The Monument landscape is
-typified by hundreds of ledges and
-shelves separating the cliffs. Nearly all
-the canyon walls are lined with such
-ledges. That is because the rather hard
-Cedar Mesa sandstone is seamed with
-many thin layers of relatively soft rock.
-The softer material erodes very much
-faster, and as it wears away, the rock
-above and below it is also exposed to
-the elements. As a deep horizontal
-crevice develops, support for the rock
-above it is removed and chunks
-eventually fall out. In time, a wide
-ledge (or shelf, or bench, or whatever)
-forms.</p>
-<p>All of the above is happening here,
-right in front of you. This <b>isn&rsquo;t</b> just an
-interesting formation, it&rsquo;s a dynamic,
-continuing process that is changing the
-landscape.</p>
-<p><span class="mm2"><span>9<br />B</span></span>
-The canyon coming around the
-corner on your left is Armstrong
-Canyon. It joins White Canyon on
-your right. In front of you is a waterfall
-(or it would be there if any water was
-flowing) above a deep, narrow plunge
-pool. This type of thing is often called
-a &ldquo;nick point,&rdquo; and it is evidence of
-some abrupt change in the canyon&rsquo;s
-development. In this case, that change
-was probably formation of Kachina
-Bridge, which changed the gradient,
-or steepness, of the stream. The
-water, rushing over the lip and
-plunging into the pool, quarries out a
-hollow under the lip. In time the lip
-breaks off, the waterfall moves back a
-few feet, and the process goes on. A
-similar, but somewhat larger nick point
-is Niagara Falls.</p>
-<p>If the canyon is dry today, it may be
-a little difficult to believe the
-explanation. If you could be here just
-after a heavy rain, when the flood
-thunders over the rocks at a rate of
-thousands of gallons <b>each second</b>,
-you would find the whole thing more
-believable.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_32">32</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig26">
-<img src="images/p017.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="566" />
-<p class="pcap">Nick Point</p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_33">33</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig27">
-<img src="images/p018.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="535" />
-<p class="pcap">Little Arch</p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_34">34</div>
-<p><span class="mm2"><span>9<br />C</span></span>
-This little arch (it&rsquo;s <b>not</b> a bridge)
-may not win prizes for size, but it is
-very handy for helping explain bridge
-or arch growth. A bridge is first
-formed by the action of running water,
-but much of its subsequent growth is
-like development of an arch. Water
-seeps into tiny cracks, freezes in
-winter, and pries flakes or blocks of
-stone loose. Alternate heat and cold
-causes rock to expand and contract
-and that opens little cracks, causes
-tension, etc. If the rock has natural
-planes in it, it may break away along
-those lines.</p>
-<p>If you look at the underside and
-sides of this little arch, you can see
-evidence of these processes. <b>Please</b>
-don&rsquo;t &ldquo;help nature along&rdquo; by prying
-pieces loose.</p>
-<p>This arch may not have been here
-very many centuries, but it is a very
-&ldquo;old&rdquo; arch. Thin and delicate, the
-fragile span over a relatively huge
-opening is near the end of its life.</p>
-<p><span class="mm2"><span>9<br />D</span></span>
-Back when we explained bridge
-formation and abandoned
-meanders, we said Armstrong
-Canyon&rsquo;s run-off played an important
-role in Kachina&rsquo;s development and
-that we would explain it &ldquo;later.&rdquo;</p>
-<p><a id="armstrong">Well,</a> now is later. Before the
-opening was formed, while White
-Canyon run-off came around the
-channel on your right, Armstrong
-Canyon run-off flowed down the
-channel from your left and rushed
-right against the rock wall that once
-existed where the opening now is.
-Flood waters roaring down Armstrong
-would rush out its mouth, cross the
-White Canyon streambed, and smash
-into that rock wall. Floods carry great
-loads of sediment: sand, gravel,
-pebbles, rocks and boulders. These
-are the teeth of a flood, the sand and
-boulders. They are the agents of
-erosion that bang, smash and batter
-any obstruction. It is a bit like a liquid
-saw with stone teeth. It&rsquo;s an act of
-violence, a cataclysm, a ripping and
-tearing. There really isn&rsquo;t anything nice
-or gentle about it, but it&rsquo;s a great way
-to undercut rock walls and gnaw holes
-in them!</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_35">35</div>
-<p>And that is precisely what it did.</p>
-<p>Well, that&rsquo;s about enough for a
-while. You are more than halfway
-through the Monument and we&rsquo;ve
-been telling you what to see, do, and
-think entirely long enough. Go now,
-and just enjoy the rest of this lovely
-walk. Walk the trail in leisure and
-peace. At the bridge are ancient ruins
-and irreplaceable prehistoric rock art.
-Let them speak to you, respect them,
-and consider your long gone
-predecessors here. Consider your
-place here, too, and the role you play
-in our beautiful little world.</p>
-<p>BEWARE! And go cautiously, for
-there are spirits here that will make
-you part of this land and forever call
-you back!</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig28">
-<img src="images/p019.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="621" />
-<p class="pcap">Ancient Ruins and Rock Art</p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_36">36</div>
-<h3 id="c12"><span class="mm1"><span>10</span></span> 2.0 (7.1) <b>Owachomo Bridge viewpoint and trailhead</b></h3>
-<p>Owachomo is a lovely bridge. Long,
-thin, flat; a fragile old bridge nearing
-its logical and inevitable end: collapse.
-The opening grows very slowly under
-an old bridge. The opening widens as
-the bridge abutments wear away and
-the overhead span (the bridge itself)
-becomes thinner and thinner, one
-grain of sand at a time.</p>
-<p>The walk down to this bridge is the
-easiest of all. You can be down and
-back in a half hour (as usual, we
-recommend that you take longer). It is
-not strenuous, compared with the
-other two, and it offers some nice
-insights about bridges. In other words,
-here&rsquo;s another different point of view.
-Owachomo is sort of a different kind
-of natural bridge, for it was formed
-differently than the others. We&rsquo;ll
-explain <b>that</b> when you get down
-there.</p>
-<p><span class="mm2"><span>10<br />A</span></span>
-We haven&rsquo;t said very much about
-wildlife here, mostly because you
-aren&rsquo;t likely to see much of it. Here
-however, you can see the work of a
-porcupine. Porcupines like to eat
-pinyon bark at times, and this pinyon
-must be pretty tasty. The large rodents
-gnaw at the tree to get at the
-nutritious inner bark, and may in time
-kill the tree by girdling it. The inner
-bark carries needed food and water
-between roots and leaves (both up
-and down), and if all the lifelines
-between the top and bottom of the
-tree are severed, the top will die.</p>
-<p>No, we don&rsquo;t try to &ldquo;protect&rdquo; the
-tree from porcupines. We call this a
-natural area, and that means it is an
-area where we try to let natural events
-proceed without the interference of
-man. That isn&rsquo;t just &ldquo;protection&rdquo; of
-things, it&rsquo;s protection of a system. It
-just means that if the porcupine wants
-to eat the pinyon, let him do it. It
-doesn&rsquo;t mean the porcupine is &ldquo;worth&rdquo;
-more than the pine, nor vice versa.
-Each has its own place, its own life,
-and its own interactions with the rest
-of the world. Just like you do!</p>
-<p><span class="mm2"><span>10<br />B</span></span>
-This is a good place to consider
-Owachomo&rsquo;s origin and
-evolution.</p>
-<p>Run-off from a large area used to
-flow down the little canyon (Tuwa
-Canyon) in front of you, along the
-base of a rock fin, and into Armstrong
-Canyon behind you to your right.
-Owachomo did not exist; there was no
-natural bridge at that time. Flood
-waters rushing down this side of the
-fin ate into the base of the fin and
-flood waters of Armstrong Canyon ate
-into the other side. A hole developed
-in the fin, creating the bridge and
-allowing Tuwa&rsquo;s run-off a shorter route
-to Armstrong.</p>
-<p>So, Owachomo was formed by the
-action of two separate streams, and
-that makes it different from Kachina
-and Sipapu (and most other natural
-bridges we know about).</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_37">37</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig29">
-<img src="images/p020.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="507" />
-<p class="pcap">Owachomo Bridge</p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_38">38</div>
-<p>Erosion is a continuing, dynamic
-process; however, stream channels
-gradually change. The run-off from
-Tuwa no longer flows through the little
-canyon in front of you because there
-is now a deeper canyon on the other
-side of the bridge fin.</p>
-<p><span class="mm2"><span>10<br />C</span></span>
-Passing the &ldquo;Unmaintained Trail&rdquo;
-sign isn&rsquo;t like abandoning all
-hope, but it does mean that the trail
-may be harder to follow and that we
-don&rsquo;t do as much to protect or help
-you. Some hikers continue from here
-and go all the way back to Sipapu via
-the canyon&rsquo;s trail. Many people start at
-Sipapu and come out this way (which
-is a lot easier), but a few start here
-and go back. It isn&rsquo;t really a terribly
-difficult hike, either way, and it is a lot
-of fun.</p>
-<p>Owachomo must once have looked
-like Kachina&mdash;massive, solid, strong.
-Later, it was more like Sipapu&mdash;graceful
-and well balanced. Now it
-looks only like itself and the even
-more fragile Landscape Arch in
-Arches National Park.</p>
-<p>At some time soon, one more grain
-will fall, a crack will race through the
-stone, and the bridge will be a heap of
-rubble in the canyon. We&rsquo;ll probably
-run around and yell a lot when it
-happens, while the sand grains will
-quietly continue to break free and
-begin the next phase of their
-existence.</p>
-<p>If you decide to walk on under the
-bridge, look behind the left abutment.
-There, a thin bed of the softer red
-stone has eroded back under the
-harder stuff of which the bridge is
-made. As erosion eats into the red-bed,
-removing support from the
-abutment, the future of the bridge
-becomes less and less secure. Frankly,
-we always feel a little nervous standing
-under it (where you are now) because
-it might collapse ... now!</p>
-<p>As you return to your car, be aware
-that you may hear the death roar of
-Owachomo. The final, critical grain of
-sand may slip out of place, a bird may
-land on the bridge, or one of your
-military jets may pass at supersonic
-speed. However it happens,
-Owachomo must someday fall. And its
-billions of sand grains must continue
-their journey to another resting place,
-and that&rsquo;s the way it ought to be.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_39">39</div>
-<h3 id="c13"><span class="mm1"><span>11</span></span> 1.4 (8.5) <b>Maverick Point View</b></h3>
-<p>To your right, across what
-appears as a fairly level stretch of
-pinyon-juniper forest, the Cedar Mesa
-sandstone is cut, slashed, incised, and
-divided by a bewildering complex of
-canyons. Slightly to the left of the
-&ldquo;flats,&rdquo; Maverick Point, Bears Ears,
-and long Elk Ridge (named by and for
-three cowboys with the initials E, L,
-and K, if you&rsquo;d like another point of
-view!) form the skyline. Bears Ears, by
-the way, was named by Spanish
-explorers far to the south, from which
-point they look just like a bear peeking
-over the ridge.</p>
-<h3 id="c14"><span class="mm1"><span>12</span></span> 0.6 (9.1) <b>Sunset Point</b></h3>
-<p>If sunset is imminent, stay right
-here. Sunsets are sometimes very
-spectacular here.</p>
-<p>Now go, and travel in peace,
-comfort and safety. Come again when
-the Canyon Country calls, if you can,
-but remember always that it remains
-here waiting, free, beautiful and
-untamed.</p>
-<p>If you have questions about this
-magnificent land, stop at the Visitor
-Center. The men and women of the
-National Park Service will be greatly
-pleased to talk with you of this and
-the 300 other areas they serve for you
-and your children. And their children.
-And theirs.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_40">40</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig30">
-<img src="images/p021.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="528" />
-<p class="pcap"><i>Sunset Point</i></p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_41">41</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig31">
-<img src="images/p022.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="541" />
-<p class="pcap">Solar Photovoltaic Power System</p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_42">42</div>
-<h3 id="c15"><span class="mm1"><span>13</span></span> <b>Solar Photovoltaic Power System</b></h3>
-<p>Most of the electricity used in the
-Monument is produced by converting
-sunlight directly into electricity. The
-process seems a little bit like magic,
-but it really does work. The system
-here is a demonstration of the
-feasibility of supplying small, remotely
-located communities with electricity
-without using fossil fuels to produce it.
-This process is liable to become very
-widely used within a decade, so the
-Natural Bridges installation is sort of a
-peek into the future. Exhibits and
-information leaflet explain the system
-in detail.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_43">43</div>
-<div class="img">
-<img src="images/p023.jpg" alt="Map showing national parks and monuments in the Four Corners region" width="800" height="521" />
-</div>
-<h2 id="c16"><span class="small">Transcriber&rsquo;s Notes</span></h2>
-<ul><li>Retained publication information from the printed edition: this eBook is public-domain in the country of publication.</li>
-<li>Corrected a few palpable typos.</li>
-<li>In the text versions only, text in italics is delimited by _underscores_.</li></ul>
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-<pre>
-
-
-
-
-
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-Monument, Utah, by Anonymous
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-The Project Gutenberg EBook of A Guide to Natural Bridges National
-Monument, Utah, by Anonymous
-
-This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most
-other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions
-whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of
-the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at
-www.gutenberg.org.  If you are not located in the United States, you'll have
-to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook.
-
-Title: A Guide to Natural Bridges National Monument, Utah
-
-Author: Anonymous
-
-Release Date: April 2, 2016 [EBook #51640]
-
-Language: English
-
-Character set encoding: ASCII
-
-*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK NATURAL BRIDGES NATIONAL MONUMENT, UTAH ***
-
-
-
-
-Produced by Stephen Hutcheson, Dave Morgan and the Online
-Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-                               A Guide to
-                            Natural Bridges
-                           National Monument,
-                                  Utah
-
-
- book designed and produced by visual communication center inc. denver,
-                                colorado
-
-    [Illustration: Published by the Canyonlands Natural History
-    Association, an independent, non-profit corporation organized to
-    complement the educational and environmental programs of the
-    National Park Service.]
-
-    [Illustration: _Visitor Center_]
-
-
-
-
-INTRODUCTION
-
-
-Welcome to Natural Bridges National Monument. We hope you can take the
-time to enjoy a relaxed, leisurely visit to the area and that this Guide
-will help you to do so. If you are like most visitors, you came here
-specifically to see the three great bridges. If that is all that you
-want to do, you can get through the area in less than two hours.
-
-We suggest, however, that you plan on spending more time here (if that's
-possible in your situation). There are more things here to see and do,
-and more ways to look at the bridges, than you may have realized. You
-have invested time and money to get here and you will gain a better
-return on those investments if you can take a bit more time to visit the
-Monument.
-
-As you drive along the road, you will occasionally find small parking
-areas with numbered posts that look like this:
-
-    [Illustration: Parking-area numbered post]
-
-The numbers on the posts refer to numbered sections of this Guide, and
-each section starts off something like this:
-
-
-[Number: 4] 1.7 (4.8) Meander Viewpoint
-
-In the above example 4. is the stop number; this is the fourth stop on
-the trip, 1.7 is the distance (miles) from the previous stop, (4.8) is
-the mileage from the start of trip at the Visitor Center, and boldface
-words are the name of the stop.
-
-Some sites are not described in the Guide; there are parking places
-without numbered posts. There are scenic views or other points of
-interest at these places, but we thought we'd leave some sites for you
-to "do your own thing," if you wish.
-
-At any stop, numbered or not, you must exercise care for your own and
-your children's safety and you must be reasonable in your use of the
-park. There are many unfenced cliffs you can fall off, rocks you can
-trip over, and other natural hazards that could injure or kill you. We
-will remind you now and then about them, but we can't protect you from
-every hazard. You have to do your part, too. Being reasonable in using
-the park involves things like not throwing rocks off cliffs (there may
-be someone below you), not entering or climbing on prehistoric ruins,
-not defacing things, and stuff like that.
-
-Actually, if you and the Monument are both undamaged by your visit, we
-should all be very pleased that you chose to come here today.
-
-Your visit to the bridges really begins in the Visitor Center. If you
-look over the exhibits, attend the slide program, and ask the
-Information Desk Ranger any questions you may have, you will have begun
-to collect data that should make the entire trip more pleasant. Then,
-with the preliminaries taken care of, step out the back door and walk to
-your right. From that point you and this guide are on your own.
-
-
-                            HAVE A NICE DAY!
-
-    [Illustration: Bears Ears]
-
-
-The Bears Ears.
-
-The two buttes rising above Elk Ridge on the skyline are called the
-Bears Ears. If you have ever looked at a bear at all closely, you may
-wonder why the buttes are called Bears Ears. Well, we wonder about that
-sometimes, too, for they don't look at all like the ears of a bear.
-"Bears Ears" is the officially approved name, but that name was bestowed
-by someone looking at the buttes from another angle. Seen from one point
-of view, physical features may appear completely different than from
-another point of view. Ideas are like that, too, in many cases. If we
-can look at things (including ideas) from a different point of view, we
-may better understand them.
-
-So, we have tried to arrange this Guide in a way that allows you to
-experiment with a few things that you did not intend to do. The great
-majority of visitors here drive in, look at the three bridges and then
-drive out. You can still do that, of course, but this booklet suggests
-some additional things which we hope will add to your enjoyment of the
-Monument.
-
-The first stop along the road is 1.4 miles from here.
-
-
-[Number: 2] 1.4 (1.4) Sphinx Rock
-
-This is another of those different point of view things. The guy who
-named this was looking at it from upper White Canyon. From that point of
-view (the opposite of yours) the resemblance to ancient Egyptian figures
-make the name quite reasonable, whereas from this side it makes no sense
-at all.
-
-The light-colored, nearly white rock all over the place is Cedar Mesa
-Sandstone, a relatively hard, fine-grained rock. Scattered through it
-are thin layers of dark red shale rock which is much softer because it
-contains a lot of muddy silt. The softer red beds erode, or wear away,
-much more quickly than the hard white rock.
-
-The long black or dark streaks on the rocks are desert varnish, a common
-occurrence here which we'll explain at a later stop.
-
-    [Illustration: Sphinx Rock]
-
-
-[Number: 3] 0.2 (1.6)
-
-This is a nice place to try a different point of view. You came here to
-see the bridges, but at this stop why not get out and look at some other
-things of interest. You have to be careful scrambling over the rocks
-(the little arrow signs mark a fairly good route) and when you get out
-near the clifftop be very cautious, but there's a beautiful view of the
-canyon. You can also see cryptogamic crust: a dark brown or black crusty
-layer on the soil, it is actually a very delicate plant community. DON'T
-WALK ON IT! Hop from rock to rock or follow the little drainages of bare
-sand. The cryptogamic soil is a combination of algae, fungi, lichens,
-and other odd plants, all dependent upon each other for some factor
-necessary to their lives.
-
-    [Illustration: Cryptogamic Crust; Detail]
-
-    [Illustration: Douglas Fir]
-
-You will see a lot of it in the Monument; be careful not to damage it. A
-single footstep can destroy 25, 50 or 100 years of growth.
-
-Ravens are a frequent sight in the canyon, flying or soaring along the
-cliffs. Big and black, they are readily recognized. More often, their
-throaty croaking call is heard and that's easy to recognize, too.
-
-As you look along the canyon sides (not down in the bottom), note the
-trees on the slope and ledges--they're different. Different from the
-stocky pinyon and juniper on top and different from the leafy green
-cottonwoods in the bottom. The tall, Christmas-tree-shaped evergreens
-are douglasfir. See any on the other side of the canyon? How about that?
-Why do they grow on only one side of the canyon?
-
-
-[Number: 4] 0.3 (1.9)
-
-This is another different point of view. You've come only a little way,
-you look at the same things (plus a few new ones), but it's different.
-
-    [Illustration: Lichens]
-
-Lichens: Patches of color, bright or somber, like a thin crust on the
-rock. Blue, black, orange, red, brown, green, yellow and other colors.
-These represent another odd plant community. Lichens are a lot tougher
-than the cryptogamic crust, but it seems a shame to walk on them. They
-are algae and fungi that live intertwined lives. Neither can live alone;
-each is utterly dependent upon the other. Such things are called
-"symbiotic" or "symbiotes." Incidentally, you're a symbiote, too, in a
-way.
-
-    [Illustration: Crossbedding]
-
-"Crossbedding" is all over the place, and you can see it all through the
-Monument in cliffs, exposed rock faces of many kinds, boulders, etc. It
-is the numerous groups of thin layers of rock intersecting at odd
-angles. They are the result of wind-blown sands drifting across the
-landscape--a very different landscape than that you see. The Cedar Mesa
-Sandstone is largely made up of sands that drifted here in great dunes.
-The loose grains were later covered by more sediments, cemented together
-by other minerals, and are now being uncovered and worn away by erosion.
-With each step, you free grains of sand that have been locked in place
-for about 180 million years. Those grains will now move on, eventually
-to come to rest and again become frozen in time. Rub the sandstone with
-your hand and feel the sand grains break loose.
-
-There is an Indian ruin across the canyon. Can you see it?
-
-The douglasfir community grows on the more shaded side of the canyon,
-for it cannot tolerate the hotter and drier environments on the sunny
-side or on the mesa top. In fact, the tops of most douglasfir growing
-near the cliff rise only to the level of the cliff top. Many have dead
-tops even with the cliffs edge. Hot dry winds from the mesa apparently
-kill the tops of these mountain forest trees, but we're not really sure
-that's the reason for the dead tops. Can you think of a better one?
-
-    [Illustration: Douglas Fir]
-
-
-[Number: 5] 0.1 (2.0) Sipapu Bridge viewpoint
-
-Natural bridges are often described in terms like young, mature, and
-old, but the words have nothing to do with age in years. A "young"
-bridge has a great, massive span above a relatively small hole. An "old"
-bridge has a very thin span over a relatively large opening. A "mature"
-bridge is intermediate between young and old. The same terms can be used
-to describe natural arches--which form in a very different manner than
-do bridges. Remember, the terms reflect stages of development, not age
-in years (a mature bridge could be older in years than an old bridge!).
-Sipapu is mature.
-
-    [Illustration: Sipapu Bridge]
-
-
-[Number: 6] 0.8 (2.8) Sipapu Trailhead
-
-You came here to see bridges and you got a good view of one at the last
-stop. Here is an outstanding opportunity for another, but different,
-view of that bridge. Two different views, in fact.
-
-A trail starts here, proceeds about halfway down into the canyon and out
-along a ledge to an outstanding view of this beautiful, graceful bridge.
-It's a fairly easy walk with guard rails, metal stairs, and other aids.
-You have to climb one short ladder. You can see an ancient Indian ruin,
-may learn quite a bit about the douglasfir community, and will get an
-excellent chance to photograph the bridge. You can walk out and back in
-about half an hour, but you may find that you want to take longer.
-
-About halfway to the viewpoint, another trail takes off and goes right
-down into the canyon. DO NOT take that route unless you're prepared for
-a much more ambitious hike. You need good footwear (like boots with a
-good sole for rock), drinking water in warm or hot weather, and plenty
-of time (allow 2-3 hours at least). It's a nice trip and you'll never
-really appreciate how huge this bridge is unless you stand under it, but
-we do not recommend the hike unless you are physically fit and properly
-prepared.
-
-SPECIAL WARNING: When you make a trip into any canyon in this part of
-the country, beware of flash floods. Even if the weather is fine where
-you are, be on the lookout for thunderstorms or heavy rain upstream from
-your location. If it's raining upstream, or if great towering clouds are
-building up, STAY OUT OF THE STREAMBED in the bottom of the canyon.
-NEVER CAMP in or next to a streambed in this region, even if it is dry.
-If you get caught by a healthy flash flood, you're dead.
-
-The following lettered paragraphs are coordinated with numbered stakes
-along the trail to the viewpoint. They help explain features as you see
-them. If you are not taking advantage of the different points of view
-here, turn to page 16. (It's OK to read the trail guide even if you
-don't take the walk.)
-
-[Number: 6A] How's this for a different point of view? It used to be,
-when people wanted to do what you are doing, that they scrambled out on
-the rocks, crawled across these logs and climbed down the tree. That was
-the only way down the cliff. Now you gain access via the stairs, which
-cost a few thousand of your tax dollars. Your dollars, remember, not
-just "Government funds."
-
-Now, some folks say we ruined the trip, that it's no fun anymore. Others
-say we should have built wooden stairs, not metal. Some think this is
-fine and a few want nothing less than an elevator or tram. What do you
-think?
-
-How does the difficulty of getting to a place affect your feeling for
-that place? How does it affect your opinion of the people who will not
-(we don't mean those who can not) do what you are doing right now?
-
-    [Illustration: White Throated Swifts]
-
-[Number: 6B] A thousand years ago this summer, a man stood where you now
-stand and he watched the white throated swifts sweep in and out of
-cracks in the cliff above you. He didn't know they were white throated
-swifts nor did he care. His main interest was to see if any baby birds
-had fallen from their nests into the pile of manure. Many do, each year,
-and the occupants of this land used any food they could find.
-
-In that 1,000 years, nearly a thousand generations of swifts have come
-and gone. Each year they return, nest in the cracks, wing their way
-through the canyons catching insects, and produce a new generation from
-the stuff of their environment. A thousand generations have passed; the
-swifts are still here. There are neither more nor less than the previous
-owner of the land watched a thousand years ago, and a thousand
-generations have left the environment ready for a thousand more. What of
-us--of Man?
-
-Less than 50 generations of man have passed since the day your
-predecessor watched the birds from this point. Our numbers have
-increased to many times the number there were then and each of us uses
-many times as much from our environment.
-
-Today we endure shortages of food, services and materials. Twenty-five
-years from now there will be twice as many of us. What will become of
-us? In fact, come to think of it, what became of the guy who watched the
-birds 1,000 years ago?
-
-[Number: 6C] A few minutes ago we wrote of a previous owner of this land
-who gathered dead birds. Well, this is his house. It may not look like
-much now (and probably didn't look an awful lot better then), but it has
-become a little rundown after 1,000 (800, or whatever) years. He may
-have been quite proud of it (it's bigger than most) and he built it all
-himself. No planes, trains, barges, boats, trucks, or even wheelbarrows.
-In fact, no wheels! A family of Anasazis could have anything they
-wanted, just so long as they could get it by themselves.
-
-    [Illustration: Anasazi Home]
-
-Please do not enter the ruin. In doing so, you can easily and innocently
-damage it. What we call "innocent vandalism" probably results in more
-irreparable damage than is caused by deliberate vandals.
-
-The Anasazis probably did a little farming down in the canyon, growing
-and storing some corn, beans and squash. They gathered wild fruits and
-seeds and made fiber from native plants. They apparently led a difficult
-life, and probably ate anything they could get: lizards, snakes, birds,
-mice, squirrels, rabbits, and rarely a deer or bighorn sheep. Some
-scientists say they also ate each other, but we don't know if this is
-true.
-
-But the Anasazi lived within certain environmental limitations, just as
-we do. They needed food, water, fuel, and other resources, just as we
-do.
-
-There came a time, about 700 years ago, when the environment here
-changed just a little. Annual rainfall patterns changed, there was a
-serious drought, and other factors may have contributed. Whatever the
-reasons, the Anasazi world changed and Man could no longer survive here.
-Man, ancient or modern, can adapt to a certain range of environmental
-change. There are limits to adaptability, though, and if the changes
-exceed those limits, Man must move to a more suitable place or die. The
-Anasazi moved.
-
-Your environment is changing very rapidly and the changes are world
-wide. Where will you move to?
-
-[Number: 6D] Here it is, Sipapu. In Hopi Indian legend, the Sipapu is a
-passage between two very different worlds. Some visitors see a
-similarity here. Beneath your feet and all around you is a world of
-slickrock: nearly barren expanses of sandstone. But through the Sipapu
-you can see a world of vegetation: a softer, less harsh, more pleasant
-world. One can almost imagine that the Sipapu is a gateway to another
-world.
-
-As you go back up the trail to your car, consider again the different
-points of view along the trail.
-
-    [Illustration: Sipapu Bridge]
-
-
-[Number: 7] 0.3 (3.1) Horse Collar Ruin trailhead
-
-Now here's an opportunity to adopt a truly different point of view: as
-different as it could be. We'd like you to be an Indian. Even if you
-already are an Indian, this walk will offer a different point of view
-because we want you to be an Anasazi Indian of about 800 years ago.
-
-The trail is easy and has few hazards. Of course, you always have to
-exercise reasonable caution on trails or in any unfamiliar environment,
-but the main thing to beware of on this walk is the cliffs further out
-on the trail. There are abrupt, unfenced drop-offs and you and the kids
-have to be careful around them.
-
-If you take the trail, try to put yourself in the place of a man of 800
-years ago. We know you can't simply forget your own rich heritage, but
-try for a brief period to set it aside, try to look at the things about
-you from a different point of view.
-
-[Number: 7A] Na'va produces tangy, tart fruits in good seasons. I like
-it; it's one of the few really tasty things in my diet. You can eat the
-rest of the cactus, too, after you scorch it, but I don't like it very
-much.
-
-    [Illustration: Prickly pear cactus]
-
-[Number: 7B] Mo'hu is a good plant. We eat the seed pods, which usually
-have tasty grubs in them. My woman braids or twists the leaf fibers and
-makes the nets, cords, and other things a man needs. Mo'vi, the bottom
-of the plant, helps make me clean when I wash with it and cleans me
-inside when I eat it.
-
-[Number: 7C] Ersvi in hot water makes a drink I take when my belly hurts
-or to cure sickness. Many of us, mostly the children, die from
-bellyaches and fevers, but our medicine always makes me well--or it has
-so far, anyway.
-
-    [Illustration: Juniper bark]
-
-[Number: 7D] Na'shu is a really good tree, for you can use it for many
-things. The timber is good building material, and the big seeds are good
-to eat when the cones ripen and open. Some years there are many of them,
-and then the women need not work so long for a supply.
-
-[Number: 7E] Ho'taki is another very good tree, like Na'shu. We pull the
-long, shaggy, coarse ho'lpe from the trunk and branches to line our
-roofs. Shredded very fine, it's useful for lining our baby's clothes and
-my woman needs it sometimes. I use the wood for roof beams, too.
-
-[Number: 7F] Owa'si, the rock flowers, are the food of my war gods. We
-do not eat them.
-
-    [Illustration: Lichens]
-
-    [Illustration: Potholes]
-
-[Number: 7G] I drink water from little pools like these, sometimes when
-I have no other water. The water often tastes funny and has bugs in it.
-The deer, bighorn sheep, and other animals drink from these pools, too,
-when there is any water.
-
-[Number: 7H] Almost always, I can find lizards in places like this. Even
-in winter, on warm days, they come out and lie on sunny rocks. Some
-years, when our food is gone in late winter and early spring, I eat
-them--but there isn't much meat on them.
-
-[Number: 7I] There is our home! When I'm hunting up here, I like to look
-down at our village. It is a good place to live. The sun shines under
-the cliff in winter, warming the whole village, but the cliff shades our
-houses in summer.
-
-The fields along the canyon floor have good crops most years, and our
-storage bins are usually full at the end of summer.
-
-Well, I must leave you now, for I have much to do before dark. Good
-hunting!
-
-You have come out here trying to see the world from the Anasazi point of
-view, we hope, but as you return you may wish to consider a 20th century
-point of view.
-
-The 800-year-old buildings across the canyon and 500 feet below are
-called Horse Collar Ruin. It is a village of several homes, two kivas
-(ceremonial and religious building used by men only), and numerous
-storage bins. It may have been home for about 30 people. The brush
-covered flats along the stream were probably farmed, producing corn,
-beans, and other storable crops. Many other food sources were used;
-native plants and animals were eaten and provided numerous necessary
-"side products." Hides, bone, horn, feather, bark, wood, etc., were the
-raw materials for many tools, implements and supplies.
-
-Anasazi villages were often located so as to be bathed in winter
-sunshine and shaded in summer. A somewhat more technological use of the
-sun's energy provides most of the electricity used in the Monument
-today.
-
-    [Illustration: Horse Collar Ruin]
-
-    [Illustration: Map of Natural Bridges National Monument]
-
-    [Illustration: Lizard]
-
-[Number: 7H] You may see lizards just about anywhere in the park. The
-more common varieties in slickrock areas like this are _whiptails_ (very
-sleek, streamlined; tail much longer than body), _eastern fence lizard_
-(rough; spiny; blue patches on throat and belly), _side-blotched lizard_
-(long tail; spiny; blue patch behind front legs).
-
-[Number: 7G] Potholes, or rock pools, are a common feature of flat
-sandstone beds. Some reach great size and depth and not all the steps in
-their development are understood. Once a slight depression is formed by
-erosion, it holds water for a while after each rain. The moisture
-dissolves some cement and encourages more rapid erosion, thus deepening
-the depression. The depression thus holds water longer, and so grows
-faster. Wind may sweep away the loosened sand grains when the pothole is
-dry.
-
-[Number: 7F] Lichens are a "symbiotic" plant association, as you may
-remember. An alga and fungus grow together, each providing to the other
-an element necessary to life. Neither can live alone; each is dependent
-upon the other.
-
-Lichens are rather effective agents of erosion, which seems a bit
-surprising for a thin crust on the rocks, but it's true. Like most
-plants, lichens tend to make the immediate area more acid. The "cement"
-that holds sand grains together to make sandstone here is very
-susceptible to acid. The lichens create acid conditions, the acid
-dissolves the cement, and the sand grains are freed to blow or wash
-away. And that is what "erosion" is all about.
-
-[Number: 7E] Juniper [Juniperus osteosperma]. Various species of juniper
-are common in the arid southwest. As you climb from desert grasslands to
-higher elevations, the junipers are usually the first trees you see.
-With pinyon pine, they often form a dense "pigmy forest" of short, burly
-trees. At slightly higher elevations, where it is a little cooler and
-moister, ponderosa pine and other trees replace the pinyon-juniper. The
-tiny scale-like needles on the twigs, and abundant bluish berries make
-junipers easy to identify.
-
-    [Illustration: Juniper]
-
-SIDE TRIP: This side trail will take you up to a knoll where you will
-have a 360 degree view of the Monument. It is the only place on your
-tour where you can gain such a view.
-
-    [Illustration: Pinyon]
-
-[Number: 7D] Pinyon [Pinus edulis]. Usually found growing with junipers
-in the pinyon-juniper woodland or pygmy forest. Under ideal conditions,
-pinyon may grow into quite respectable trees! The seeds are still used
-as a staple diet item by Southwestern Indians. As pinyon "nuts," they
-also find their way into gourmet and specialty food shops. The
-inconspicuous flowers appear in spring and the cones mature a year and a
-half later, in the fall.
-
-    [Illustration: Mormon Tea]
-
-[Number: 7C] Mormon tea [Ephedra viridis]. Used by Indians and pioneers
-as a stimulant and medicine, the beverage is still used as a spring
-tonic by many.
-
-Ephedra is really kind of a neat plant. Like most desert plants, it has
-evolved methods of conserving water. For one thing, it has no leaves.
-Look at it closely--it's all stem. Plants can lose a lot of water from
-their leaves and many desert plants have leaves modified to reduce water
-loss, but Mormon tea has dispensed with leaves entirely (Well, almost
-entirely: they get very tiny ones in the spring, which soon fall off).
-Plants usually need green leaves to produce food, but Ephedra has many
-green stems that carry out that function.
-
-    [Illustration: Yucca]
-
-[Number: 7B] Yucca [Yucca brevifolia]. The yuccas are very common
-throughout the Southwest, from low desert to mountains. There are many
-species, but they share one great peculiarity. They are symbiotic with a
-little white moth, the Pronuba.
-
-Female Pronubas live in the blossoms. After mating, the moth collects a
-ball of yucca pollen and jams it onto the stigma (female part) of the
-flower. Yucca pollen is heavy and sticky; it doesn't float around in the
-wind. Other insects do not transport it. The Pronuba insures that the
-plant will produce seeds by fertilizing the blossom and then she lays
-eggs in the base of the flower where the seeds will grow. The larvae
-that hatch from her eggs eat many seeds, but a lot of the seeds mature,
-too. The moth will not lay her eggs anywhere else.
-
-The Pronuba must have yuccas to reproduce. The yuccas must have Pronubas
-to reproduce. Neither can get along without the other.
-
-[Number: 7A] Prickly pear cactus [Opuntia]. Like all desert cactus,
-these are well adapted to the arid environment. Like Ephedra, cactus are
-all stem, have no leaves, and the stems (or "pads") contain green
-chlorophyll, the critically important element in food production. Cactus
-spines are modified leaves that serve as effective protection, but are
-not functional food producers. When moisture is abundant, cactus pads
-get plump and smooth. During extended dry spells, the pads shrink and
-wrinkle as the plant uses the stored water. How has the weather been
-around here recently? Look at the cactus and you can tell!
-
-
-[Number: 8] 0.5 (4.8)
-
-You won't get a very good view of Kachina Bridge here, but you will find
-it much easier to understand how bridges are formed if you walk out to
-the canyon rim. There is no trail, but it's an easy walk without unusual
-hazards other than the ever present cliffs. Remember, DON'T WALK ON THE
-CRYPTOGAMIC CRUST!
-
-    [Illustration: Desert Varnish]
-
-Desert varnish, the dark streaks on the canyon walls, is common in arid
-areas such as this. Each time the rock gets wet, some moisture is
-absorbed by the rock. Water actually seeps into tiny spaces between the
-grains of sand. Later, the moisture is drawn out of the rock and
-evaporated by hot, dry air. While inside the sandstone, however, the
-water dissolves minute amounts of minerals like iron and manganese. When
-the water comes to the rock surface and evaporates, the minerals come
-with it--but the minerals do not evaporate. They accumulate on the
-surface of the rock over thousands of years, slowly forming a very thin
-dark crust.
-
-    [Illustration: White Canyon]
-
-Notice the long, curving, fairly level valley right below you. This is
-an important part of the bridge formation story, for that valley was the
-stream channel before Kachina Bridge was formed. The stream now flows
-through the hole under the bridge, of course, but before there was a
-hole the water had to run around this side of the mass of rock that now
-forms the bridge. Every time White Canyon flooded (which is every time
-it rained very much), the stream cut a little deeper into the base of
-the rock and most of the cutting took place right where the stream was
-forced to turn toward you. As flood waters roared around this curving
-valley, the shape of the canyon also threw them against the downstream
-side of the obstructing wall of rock, so that the stream was eating into
-both sides of a fairly thin wall. It eventually ate right through the
-obstruction, and from then on the stream followed the shorter,
-straighter route. Continued erosion enlarged the opening and cut the
-channel deeper into the canyon. Downcutting of the new channel left this
-old channel high and dry. And there it sits!
-
-Actually, the water coming down Armstrong Canyon (on the left) also
-contributed to bridge development, but we'll get into that at a later
-stop.
-
-    [Illustration: Kachina Bridge]
-
-
-[Number: 9] 0.3 (5.1) Kachina Bridge, viewpoint and trailhead
-
-Kachina is an excellent example of a young bridge. The thick, heavy span
-crosses a relatively small opening. The span and abutments are massive,
-not slim and graceful.
-
-    [Illustration: Pictographs]
-
-Below the bridge are ancient pictographs (drawings on stone) that some
-people felt represented or at least looked like the Hopi Indian gods
-called Kachinas. So the original name was discarded and "Kachina" was
-substituted.
-
-As at the other bridges, there is a very nice little trail down into the
-canyon. The trail is in good condition, you can walk it without special
-equipment, and it isn't especially strenuous. It is a bit steep, so
-coming back on a hot day you may find the trip can be tedious. If the
-weather is fairly warm or hot today, you may also want to take water. An
-hour or hour and a half is adequate time to allow for the trip--unless
-you fool around a lot.
-
-[Number: 9A] The Monument landscape is typified by hundreds of ledges
-and shelves separating the cliffs. Nearly all the canyon walls are lined
-with such ledges. That is because the rather hard Cedar Mesa sandstone
-is seamed with many thin layers of relatively soft rock. The softer
-material erodes very much faster, and as it wears away, the rock above
-and below it is also exposed to the elements. As a deep horizontal
-crevice develops, support for the rock above it is removed and chunks
-eventually fall out. In time, a wide ledge (or shelf, or bench, or
-whatever) forms.
-
-All of the above is happening here, right in front of you. This isn't
-just an interesting formation, it's a dynamic, continuing process that
-is changing the landscape.
-
-[Number: 9B] The canyon coming around the corner on your left is
-Armstrong Canyon. It joins White Canyon on your right. In front of you
-is a waterfall (or it would be there if any water was flowing) above a
-deep, narrow plunge pool. This type of thing is often called a "nick
-point," and it is evidence of some abrupt change in the canyon's
-development. In this case, that change was probably formation of Kachina
-Bridge, which changed the gradient, or steepness, of the stream. The
-water, rushing over the lip and plunging into the pool, quarries out a
-hollow under the lip. In time the lip breaks off, the waterfall moves
-back a few feet, and the process goes on. A similar, but somewhat larger
-nick point is Niagara Falls.
-
-If the canyon is dry today, it may be a little difficult to believe the
-explanation. If you could be here just after a heavy rain, when the
-flood thunders over the rocks at a rate of thousands of gallons each
-second, you would find the whole thing more believable.
-
-    [Illustration: Nick Point]
-
-    [Illustration: Little Arch]
-
-[Number: 9C] This little arch (it's not a bridge) may not win prizes for
-size, but it is very handy for helping explain bridge or arch growth. A
-bridge is first formed by the action of running water, but much of its
-subsequent growth is like development of an arch. Water seeps into tiny
-cracks, freezes in winter, and pries flakes or blocks of stone loose.
-Alternate heat and cold causes rock to expand and contract and that
-opens little cracks, causes tension, etc. If the rock has natural planes
-in it, it may break away along those lines.
-
-If you look at the underside and sides of this little arch, you can see
-evidence of these processes. Please don't "help nature along" by prying
-pieces loose.
-
-This arch may not have been here very many centuries, but it is a very
-"old" arch. Thin and delicate, the fragile span over a relatively huge
-opening is near the end of its life.
-
-[Number: 9D] Back when we explained bridge formation and abandoned
-meanders, we said Armstrong Canyon's run-off played an important role in
-Kachina's development and that we would explain it "later."
-
-Well, now is later. Before the opening was formed, while White Canyon
-run-off came around the channel on your right, Armstrong Canyon run-off
-flowed down the channel from your left and rushed right against the rock
-wall that once existed where the opening now is. Flood waters roaring
-down Armstrong would rush out its mouth, cross the White Canyon
-streambed, and smash into that rock wall. Floods carry great loads of
-sediment: sand, gravel, pebbles, rocks and boulders. These are the teeth
-of a flood, the sand and boulders. They are the agents of erosion that
-bang, smash and batter any obstruction. It is a bit like a liquid saw
-with stone teeth. It's an act of violence, a cataclysm, a ripping and
-tearing. There really isn't anything nice or gentle about it, but it's a
-great way to undercut rock walls and gnaw holes in them!
-
-And that is precisely what it did.
-
-Well, that's about enough for a while. You are more than halfway through
-the Monument and we've been telling you what to see, do, and think
-entirely long enough. Go now, and just enjoy the rest of this lovely
-walk. Walk the trail in leisure and peace. At the bridge are ancient
-ruins and irreplaceable prehistoric rock art. Let them speak to you,
-respect them, and consider your long gone predecessors here. Consider
-your place here, too, and the role you play in our beautiful little
-world.
-
-BEWARE! And go cautiously, for there are spirits here that will make you
-part of this land and forever call you back!
-
-    [Illustration: Ancient Ruins and Rock Art]
-
-
-[Number: 10] 2.0 (7.1) Owachomo Bridge viewpoint and trailhead
-
-Owachomo is a lovely bridge. Long, thin, flat; a fragile old bridge
-nearing its logical and inevitable end: collapse. The opening grows very
-slowly under an old bridge. The opening widens as the bridge abutments
-wear away and the overhead span (the bridge itself) becomes thinner and
-thinner, one grain of sand at a time.
-
-The walk down to this bridge is the easiest of all. You can be down and
-back in a half hour (as usual, we recommend that you take longer). It is
-not strenuous, compared with the other two, and it offers some nice
-insights about bridges. In other words, here's another different point
-of view. Owachomo is sort of a different kind of natural bridge, for it
-was formed differently than the others. We'll explain that when you get
-down there.
-
-[Number: 10A] We haven't said very much about wildlife here, mostly
-because you aren't likely to see much of it. Here however, you can see
-the work of a porcupine. Porcupines like to eat pinyon bark at times,
-and this pinyon must be pretty tasty. The large rodents gnaw at the tree
-to get at the nutritious inner bark, and may in time kill the tree by
-girdling it. The inner bark carries needed food and water between roots
-and leaves (both up and down), and if all the lifelines between the top
-and bottom of the tree are severed, the top will die.
-
-No, we don't try to "protect" the tree from porcupines. We call this a
-natural area, and that means it is an area where we try to let natural
-events proceed without the interference of man. That isn't just
-"protection" of things, it's protection of a system. It just means that
-if the porcupine wants to eat the pinyon, let him do it. It doesn't mean
-the porcupine is "worth" more than the pine, nor vice versa. Each has
-its own place, its own life, and its own interactions with the rest of
-the world. Just like you do!
-
-[Number: 10B] This is a good place to consider Owachomo's origin and
-evolution.
-
-Run-off from a large area used to flow down the little canyon (Tuwa
-Canyon) in front of you, along the base of a rock fin, and into
-Armstrong Canyon behind you to your right. Owachomo did not exist; there
-was no natural bridge at that time. Flood waters rushing down this side
-of the fin ate into the base of the fin and flood waters of Armstrong
-Canyon ate into the other side. A hole developed in the fin, creating
-the bridge and allowing Tuwa's run-off a shorter route to Armstrong.
-
-So, Owachomo was formed by the action of two separate streams, and that
-makes it different from Kachina and Sipapu (and most other natural
-bridges we know about).
-
-    [Illustration: Owachomo Bridge]
-
-Erosion is a continuing, dynamic process; however, stream channels
-gradually change. The run-off from Tuwa no longer flows through the
-little canyon in front of you because there is now a deeper canyon on
-the other side of the bridge fin.
-
-[Number: 10C] Passing the "Unmaintained Trail" sign isn't like
-abandoning all hope, but it does mean that the trail may be harder to
-follow and that we don't do as much to protect or help you. Some hikers
-continue from here and go all the way back to Sipapu via the canyon's
-trail. Many people start at Sipapu and come out this way (which is a lot
-easier), but a few start here and go back. It isn't really a terribly
-difficult hike, either way, and it is a lot of fun.
-
-Owachomo must once have looked like Kachina--massive, solid, strong.
-Later, it was more like Sipapu--graceful and well balanced. Now it looks
-only like itself and the even more fragile Landscape Arch in Arches
-National Park.
-
-At some time soon, one more grain will fall, a crack will race through
-the stone, and the bridge will be a heap of rubble in the canyon. We'll
-probably run around and yell a lot when it happens, while the sand
-grains will quietly continue to break free and begin the next phase of
-their existence.
-
-If you decide to walk on under the bridge, look behind the left
-abutment. There, a thin bed of the softer red stone has eroded back
-under the harder stuff of which the bridge is made. As erosion eats into
-the red-bed, removing support from the abutment, the future of the
-bridge becomes less and less secure. Frankly, we always feel a little
-nervous standing under it (where you are now) because it might collapse
-... now!
-
-As you return to your car, be aware that you may hear the death roar of
-Owachomo. The final, critical grain of sand may slip out of place, a
-bird may land on the bridge, or one of your military jets may pass at
-supersonic speed. However it happens, Owachomo must someday fall. And
-its billions of sand grains must continue their journey to another
-resting place, and that's the way it ought to be.
-
-
-[Number: 11] 1.4 (8.5) Maverick Point View
-
-To your right, across what appears as a fairly level stretch of
-pinyon-juniper forest, the Cedar Mesa sandstone is cut, slashed,
-incised, and divided by a bewildering complex of canyons. Slightly to
-the left of the "flats," Maverick Point, Bears Ears, and long Elk Ridge
-(named by and for three cowboys with the initials E, L, and K, if you'd
-like another point of view!) form the skyline. Bears Ears, by the way,
-was named by Spanish explorers far to the south, from which point they
-look just like a bear peeking over the ridge.
-
-
-[Number: 12] 0.6 (9.1) Sunset Point
-
-If sunset is imminent, stay right here. Sunsets are sometimes very
-spectacular here.
-
-Now go, and travel in peace, comfort and safety. Come again when the
-Canyon Country calls, if you can, but remember always that it remains
-here waiting, free, beautiful and untamed.
-
-If you have questions about this magnificent land, stop at the Visitor
-Center. The men and women of the National Park Service will be greatly
-pleased to talk with you of this and the 300 other areas they serve for
-you and your children. And their children. And theirs.
-
-    [Illustration: _Sunset Point_]
-
-    [Illustration: Solar Photovoltaic Power System]
-
-
-[Number: 13] Solar Photovoltaic Power System
-
-Most of the electricity used in the Monument is produced by converting
-sunlight directly into electricity. The process seems a little bit like
-magic, but it really does work. The system here is a demonstration of
-the feasibility of supplying small, remotely located communities with
-electricity without using fossil fuels to produce it. This process is
-liable to become very widely used within a decade, so the Natural
-Bridges installation is sort of a peek into the future. Exhibits and
-information leaflet explain the system in detail.
-
-    [Illustration: Map showing national parks and monuments in the Four
-    Corners region]
-
-
-
-
-Transcriber's Notes
-
-
---Retained publication information from the printed edition: this eBook
-  is public-domain in the country of publication.
-
---Corrected a few palpable typos.
-
---In the text versions only, text in italics is delimited by
-  _underscores_.
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of A Guide to Natural Bridges National
-Monument, Utah, by Anonymous
-
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