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diff --git a/51640.txt b/51640.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 4dacb44..0000000 --- a/51640.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,1261 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of A Guide to Natural Bridges National -Monument, Utah, by Anonymous - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - -Title: A Guide to Natural Bridges National Monument, Utah - -Author: Anonymous - -Release Date: April 2, 2016 [EBook #51640] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ASCII - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK NATURAL BRIDGES NATIONAL MONUMENT, UTAH *** - - - - -Produced by Stephen Hutcheson, Dave Morgan and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net - - - - - - - - - - A Guide to - Natural Bridges - National Monument, - Utah - - - book designed and produced by visual communication center inc. denver, - colorado - - [Illustration: Published by the Canyonlands Natural History - Association, an independent, non-profit corporation organized to - complement the educational and environmental programs of the - National Park Service.] - - [Illustration: _Visitor Center_] - - - - -INTRODUCTION - - -Welcome to Natural Bridges National Monument. We hope you can take the -time to enjoy a relaxed, leisurely visit to the area and that this Guide -will help you to do so. If you are like most visitors, you came here -specifically to see the three great bridges. If that is all that you -want to do, you can get through the area in less than two hours. - -We suggest, however, that you plan on spending more time here (if that's -possible in your situation). There are more things here to see and do, -and more ways to look at the bridges, than you may have realized. You -have invested time and money to get here and you will gain a better -return on those investments if you can take a bit more time to visit the -Monument. - -As you drive along the road, you will occasionally find small parking -areas with numbered posts that look like this: - - [Illustration: Parking-area numbered post] - -The numbers on the posts refer to numbered sections of this Guide, and -each section starts off something like this: - - -[Number: 4] 1.7 (4.8) Meander Viewpoint - -In the above example 4. is the stop number; this is the fourth stop on -the trip, 1.7 is the distance (miles) from the previous stop, (4.8) is -the mileage from the start of trip at the Visitor Center, and boldface -words are the name of the stop. - -Some sites are not described in the Guide; there are parking places -without numbered posts. There are scenic views or other points of -interest at these places, but we thought we'd leave some sites for you -to "do your own thing," if you wish. - -At any stop, numbered or not, you must exercise care for your own and -your children's safety and you must be reasonable in your use of the -park. There are many unfenced cliffs you can fall off, rocks you can -trip over, and other natural hazards that could injure or kill you. We -will remind you now and then about them, but we can't protect you from -every hazard. You have to do your part, too. Being reasonable in using -the park involves things like not throwing rocks off cliffs (there may -be someone below you), not entering or climbing on prehistoric ruins, -not defacing things, and stuff like that. - -Actually, if you and the Monument are both undamaged by your visit, we -should all be very pleased that you chose to come here today. - -Your visit to the bridges really begins in the Visitor Center. If you -look over the exhibits, attend the slide program, and ask the -Information Desk Ranger any questions you may have, you will have begun -to collect data that should make the entire trip more pleasant. Then, -with the preliminaries taken care of, step out the back door and walk to -your right. From that point you and this guide are on your own. - - - HAVE A NICE DAY! - - [Illustration: Bears Ears] - - -The Bears Ears. - -The two buttes rising above Elk Ridge on the skyline are called the -Bears Ears. If you have ever looked at a bear at all closely, you may -wonder why the buttes are called Bears Ears. Well, we wonder about that -sometimes, too, for they don't look at all like the ears of a bear. -"Bears Ears" is the officially approved name, but that name was bestowed -by someone looking at the buttes from another angle. Seen from one point -of view, physical features may appear completely different than from -another point of view. Ideas are like that, too, in many cases. If we -can look at things (including ideas) from a different point of view, we -may better understand them. - -So, we have tried to arrange this Guide in a way that allows you to -experiment with a few things that you did not intend to do. The great -majority of visitors here drive in, look at the three bridges and then -drive out. You can still do that, of course, but this booklet suggests -some additional things which we hope will add to your enjoyment of the -Monument. - -The first stop along the road is 1.4 miles from here. - - -[Number: 2] 1.4 (1.4) Sphinx Rock - -This is another of those different point of view things. The guy who -named this was looking at it from upper White Canyon. From that point of -view (the opposite of yours) the resemblance to ancient Egyptian figures -make the name quite reasonable, whereas from this side it makes no sense -at all. - -The light-colored, nearly white rock all over the place is Cedar Mesa -Sandstone, a relatively hard, fine-grained rock. Scattered through it -are thin layers of dark red shale rock which is much softer because it -contains a lot of muddy silt. The softer red beds erode, or wear away, -much more quickly than the hard white rock. - -The long black or dark streaks on the rocks are desert varnish, a common -occurrence here which we'll explain at a later stop. - - [Illustration: Sphinx Rock] - - -[Number: 3] 0.2 (1.6) - -This is a nice place to try a different point of view. You came here to -see the bridges, but at this stop why not get out and look at some other -things of interest. You have to be careful scrambling over the rocks -(the little arrow signs mark a fairly good route) and when you get out -near the clifftop be very cautious, but there's a beautiful view of the -canyon. You can also see cryptogamic crust: a dark brown or black crusty -layer on the soil, it is actually a very delicate plant community. DON'T -WALK ON IT! Hop from rock to rock or follow the little drainages of bare -sand. The cryptogamic soil is a combination of algae, fungi, lichens, -and other odd plants, all dependent upon each other for some factor -necessary to their lives. - - [Illustration: Cryptogamic Crust; Detail] - - [Illustration: Douglas Fir] - -You will see a lot of it in the Monument; be careful not to damage it. A -single footstep can destroy 25, 50 or 100 years of growth. - -Ravens are a frequent sight in the canyon, flying or soaring along the -cliffs. Big and black, they are readily recognized. More often, their -throaty croaking call is heard and that's easy to recognize, too. - -As you look along the canyon sides (not down in the bottom), note the -trees on the slope and ledges--they're different. Different from the -stocky pinyon and juniper on top and different from the leafy green -cottonwoods in the bottom. The tall, Christmas-tree-shaped evergreens -are douglasfir. See any on the other side of the canyon? How about that? -Why do they grow on only one side of the canyon? - - -[Number: 4] 0.3 (1.9) - -This is another different point of view. You've come only a little way, -you look at the same things (plus a few new ones), but it's different. - - [Illustration: Lichens] - -Lichens: Patches of color, bright or somber, like a thin crust on the -rock. Blue, black, orange, red, brown, green, yellow and other colors. -These represent another odd plant community. Lichens are a lot tougher -than the cryptogamic crust, but it seems a shame to walk on them. They -are algae and fungi that live intertwined lives. Neither can live alone; -each is utterly dependent upon the other. Such things are called -"symbiotic" or "symbiotes." Incidentally, you're a symbiote, too, in a -way. - - [Illustration: Crossbedding] - -"Crossbedding" is all over the place, and you can see it all through the -Monument in cliffs, exposed rock faces of many kinds, boulders, etc. It -is the numerous groups of thin layers of rock intersecting at odd -angles. They are the result of wind-blown sands drifting across the -landscape--a very different landscape than that you see. The Cedar Mesa -Sandstone is largely made up of sands that drifted here in great dunes. -The loose grains were later covered by more sediments, cemented together -by other minerals, and are now being uncovered and worn away by erosion. -With each step, you free grains of sand that have been locked in place -for about 180 million years. Those grains will now move on, eventually -to come to rest and again become frozen in time. Rub the sandstone with -your hand and feel the sand grains break loose. - -There is an Indian ruin across the canyon. Can you see it? - -The douglasfir community grows on the more shaded side of the canyon, -for it cannot tolerate the hotter and drier environments on the sunny -side or on the mesa top. In fact, the tops of most douglasfir growing -near the cliff rise only to the level of the cliff top. Many have dead -tops even with the cliffs edge. Hot dry winds from the mesa apparently -kill the tops of these mountain forest trees, but we're not really sure -that's the reason for the dead tops. Can you think of a better one? - - [Illustration: Douglas Fir] - - -[Number: 5] 0.1 (2.0) Sipapu Bridge viewpoint - -Natural bridges are often described in terms like young, mature, and -old, but the words have nothing to do with age in years. A "young" -bridge has a great, massive span above a relatively small hole. An "old" -bridge has a very thin span over a relatively large opening. A "mature" -bridge is intermediate between young and old. The same terms can be used -to describe natural arches--which form in a very different manner than -do bridges. Remember, the terms reflect stages of development, not age -in years (a mature bridge could be older in years than an old bridge!). -Sipapu is mature. - - [Illustration: Sipapu Bridge] - - -[Number: 6] 0.8 (2.8) Sipapu Trailhead - -You came here to see bridges and you got a good view of one at the last -stop. Here is an outstanding opportunity for another, but different, -view of that bridge. Two different views, in fact. - -A trail starts here, proceeds about halfway down into the canyon and out -along a ledge to an outstanding view of this beautiful, graceful bridge. -It's a fairly easy walk with guard rails, metal stairs, and other aids. -You have to climb one short ladder. You can see an ancient Indian ruin, -may learn quite a bit about the douglasfir community, and will get an -excellent chance to photograph the bridge. You can walk out and back in -about half an hour, but you may find that you want to take longer. - -About halfway to the viewpoint, another trail takes off and goes right -down into the canyon. DO NOT take that route unless you're prepared for -a much more ambitious hike. You need good footwear (like boots with a -good sole for rock), drinking water in warm or hot weather, and plenty -of time (allow 2-3 hours at least). It's a nice trip and you'll never -really appreciate how huge this bridge is unless you stand under it, but -we do not recommend the hike unless you are physically fit and properly -prepared. - -SPECIAL WARNING: When you make a trip into any canyon in this part of -the country, beware of flash floods. Even if the weather is fine where -you are, be on the lookout for thunderstorms or heavy rain upstream from -your location. If it's raining upstream, or if great towering clouds are -building up, STAY OUT OF THE STREAMBED in the bottom of the canyon. -NEVER CAMP in or next to a streambed in this region, even if it is dry. -If you get caught by a healthy flash flood, you're dead. - -The following lettered paragraphs are coordinated with numbered stakes -along the trail to the viewpoint. They help explain features as you see -them. If you are not taking advantage of the different points of view -here, turn to page 16. (It's OK to read the trail guide even if you -don't take the walk.) - -[Number: 6A] How's this for a different point of view? It used to be, -when people wanted to do what you are doing, that they scrambled out on -the rocks, crawled across these logs and climbed down the tree. That was -the only way down the cliff. Now you gain access via the stairs, which -cost a few thousand of your tax dollars. Your dollars, remember, not -just "Government funds." - -Now, some folks say we ruined the trip, that it's no fun anymore. Others -say we should have built wooden stairs, not metal. Some think this is -fine and a few want nothing less than an elevator or tram. What do you -think? - -How does the difficulty of getting to a place affect your feeling for -that place? How does it affect your opinion of the people who will not -(we don't mean those who can not) do what you are doing right now? - - [Illustration: White Throated Swifts] - -[Number: 6B] A thousand years ago this summer, a man stood where you now -stand and he watched the white throated swifts sweep in and out of -cracks in the cliff above you. He didn't know they were white throated -swifts nor did he care. His main interest was to see if any baby birds -had fallen from their nests into the pile of manure. Many do, each year, -and the occupants of this land used any food they could find. - -In that 1,000 years, nearly a thousand generations of swifts have come -and gone. Each year they return, nest in the cracks, wing their way -through the canyons catching insects, and produce a new generation from -the stuff of their environment. A thousand generations have passed; the -swifts are still here. There are neither more nor less than the previous -owner of the land watched a thousand years ago, and a thousand -generations have left the environment ready for a thousand more. What of -us--of Man? - -Less than 50 generations of man have passed since the day your -predecessor watched the birds from this point. Our numbers have -increased to many times the number there were then and each of us uses -many times as much from our environment. - -Today we endure shortages of food, services and materials. Twenty-five -years from now there will be twice as many of us. What will become of -us? In fact, come to think of it, what became of the guy who watched the -birds 1,000 years ago? - -[Number: 6C] A few minutes ago we wrote of a previous owner of this land -who gathered dead birds. Well, this is his house. It may not look like -much now (and probably didn't look an awful lot better then), but it has -become a little rundown after 1,000 (800, or whatever) years. He may -have been quite proud of it (it's bigger than most) and he built it all -himself. No planes, trains, barges, boats, trucks, or even wheelbarrows. -In fact, no wheels! A family of Anasazis could have anything they -wanted, just so long as they could get it by themselves. - - [Illustration: Anasazi Home] - -Please do not enter the ruin. In doing so, you can easily and innocently -damage it. What we call "innocent vandalism" probably results in more -irreparable damage than is caused by deliberate vandals. - -The Anasazis probably did a little farming down in the canyon, growing -and storing some corn, beans and squash. They gathered wild fruits and -seeds and made fiber from native plants. They apparently led a difficult -life, and probably ate anything they could get: lizards, snakes, birds, -mice, squirrels, rabbits, and rarely a deer or bighorn sheep. Some -scientists say they also ate each other, but we don't know if this is -true. - -But the Anasazi lived within certain environmental limitations, just as -we do. They needed food, water, fuel, and other resources, just as we -do. - -There came a time, about 700 years ago, when the environment here -changed just a little. Annual rainfall patterns changed, there was a -serious drought, and other factors may have contributed. Whatever the -reasons, the Anasazi world changed and Man could no longer survive here. -Man, ancient or modern, can adapt to a certain range of environmental -change. There are limits to adaptability, though, and if the changes -exceed those limits, Man must move to a more suitable place or die. The -Anasazi moved. - -Your environment is changing very rapidly and the changes are world -wide. Where will you move to? - -[Number: 6D] Here it is, Sipapu. In Hopi Indian legend, the Sipapu is a -passage between two very different worlds. Some visitors see a -similarity here. Beneath your feet and all around you is a world of -slickrock: nearly barren expanses of sandstone. But through the Sipapu -you can see a world of vegetation: a softer, less harsh, more pleasant -world. One can almost imagine that the Sipapu is a gateway to another -world. - -As you go back up the trail to your car, consider again the different -points of view along the trail. - - [Illustration: Sipapu Bridge] - - -[Number: 7] 0.3 (3.1) Horse Collar Ruin trailhead - -Now here's an opportunity to adopt a truly different point of view: as -different as it could be. We'd like you to be an Indian. Even if you -already are an Indian, this walk will offer a different point of view -because we want you to be an Anasazi Indian of about 800 years ago. - -The trail is easy and has few hazards. Of course, you always have to -exercise reasonable caution on trails or in any unfamiliar environment, -but the main thing to beware of on this walk is the cliffs further out -on the trail. There are abrupt, unfenced drop-offs and you and the kids -have to be careful around them. - -If you take the trail, try to put yourself in the place of a man of 800 -years ago. We know you can't simply forget your own rich heritage, but -try for a brief period to set it aside, try to look at the things about -you from a different point of view. - -[Number: 7A] Na'va produces tangy, tart fruits in good seasons. I like -it; it's one of the few really tasty things in my diet. You can eat the -rest of the cactus, too, after you scorch it, but I don't like it very -much. - - [Illustration: Prickly pear cactus] - -[Number: 7B] Mo'hu is a good plant. We eat the seed pods, which usually -have tasty grubs in them. My woman braids or twists the leaf fibers and -makes the nets, cords, and other things a man needs. Mo'vi, the bottom -of the plant, helps make me clean when I wash with it and cleans me -inside when I eat it. - -[Number: 7C] Ersvi in hot water makes a drink I take when my belly hurts -or to cure sickness. Many of us, mostly the children, die from -bellyaches and fevers, but our medicine always makes me well--or it has -so far, anyway. - - [Illustration: Juniper bark] - -[Number: 7D] Na'shu is a really good tree, for you can use it for many -things. The timber is good building material, and the big seeds are good -to eat when the cones ripen and open. Some years there are many of them, -and then the women need not work so long for a supply. - -[Number: 7E] Ho'taki is another very good tree, like Na'shu. We pull the -long, shaggy, coarse ho'lpe from the trunk and branches to line our -roofs. Shredded very fine, it's useful for lining our baby's clothes and -my woman needs it sometimes. I use the wood for roof beams, too. - -[Number: 7F] Owa'si, the rock flowers, are the food of my war gods. We -do not eat them. - - [Illustration: Lichens] - - [Illustration: Potholes] - -[Number: 7G] I drink water from little pools like these, sometimes when -I have no other water. The water often tastes funny and has bugs in it. -The deer, bighorn sheep, and other animals drink from these pools, too, -when there is any water. - -[Number: 7H] Almost always, I can find lizards in places like this. Even -in winter, on warm days, they come out and lie on sunny rocks. Some -years, when our food is gone in late winter and early spring, I eat -them--but there isn't much meat on them. - -[Number: 7I] There is our home! When I'm hunting up here, I like to look -down at our village. It is a good place to live. The sun shines under -the cliff in winter, warming the whole village, but the cliff shades our -houses in summer. - -The fields along the canyon floor have good crops most years, and our -storage bins are usually full at the end of summer. - -Well, I must leave you now, for I have much to do before dark. Good -hunting! - -You have come out here trying to see the world from the Anasazi point of -view, we hope, but as you return you may wish to consider a 20th century -point of view. - -The 800-year-old buildings across the canyon and 500 feet below are -called Horse Collar Ruin. It is a village of several homes, two kivas -(ceremonial and religious building used by men only), and numerous -storage bins. It may have been home for about 30 people. The brush -covered flats along the stream were probably farmed, producing corn, -beans, and other storable crops. Many other food sources were used; -native plants and animals were eaten and provided numerous necessary -"side products." Hides, bone, horn, feather, bark, wood, etc., were the -raw materials for many tools, implements and supplies. - -Anasazi villages were often located so as to be bathed in winter -sunshine and shaded in summer. A somewhat more technological use of the -sun's energy provides most of the electricity used in the Monument -today. - - [Illustration: Horse Collar Ruin] - - [Illustration: Map of Natural Bridges National Monument] - - [Illustration: Lizard] - -[Number: 7H] You may see lizards just about anywhere in the park. The -more common varieties in slickrock areas like this are _whiptails_ (very -sleek, streamlined; tail much longer than body), _eastern fence lizard_ -(rough; spiny; blue patches on throat and belly), _side-blotched lizard_ -(long tail; spiny; blue patch behind front legs). - -[Number: 7G] Potholes, or rock pools, are a common feature of flat -sandstone beds. Some reach great size and depth and not all the steps in -their development are understood. Once a slight depression is formed by -erosion, it holds water for a while after each rain. The moisture -dissolves some cement and encourages more rapid erosion, thus deepening -the depression. The depression thus holds water longer, and so grows -faster. Wind may sweep away the loosened sand grains when the pothole is -dry. - -[Number: 7F] Lichens are a "symbiotic" plant association, as you may -remember. An alga and fungus grow together, each providing to the other -an element necessary to life. Neither can live alone; each is dependent -upon the other. - -Lichens are rather effective agents of erosion, which seems a bit -surprising for a thin crust on the rocks, but it's true. Like most -plants, lichens tend to make the immediate area more acid. The "cement" -that holds sand grains together to make sandstone here is very -susceptible to acid. The lichens create acid conditions, the acid -dissolves the cement, and the sand grains are freed to blow or wash -away. And that is what "erosion" is all about. - -[Number: 7E] Juniper [Juniperus osteosperma]. Various species of juniper -are common in the arid southwest. As you climb from desert grasslands to -higher elevations, the junipers are usually the first trees you see. -With pinyon pine, they often form a dense "pigmy forest" of short, burly -trees. At slightly higher elevations, where it is a little cooler and -moister, ponderosa pine and other trees replace the pinyon-juniper. The -tiny scale-like needles on the twigs, and abundant bluish berries make -junipers easy to identify. - - [Illustration: Juniper] - -SIDE TRIP: This side trail will take you up to a knoll where you will -have a 360 degree view of the Monument. It is the only place on your -tour where you can gain such a view. - - [Illustration: Pinyon] - -[Number: 7D] Pinyon [Pinus edulis]. Usually found growing with junipers -in the pinyon-juniper woodland or pygmy forest. Under ideal conditions, -pinyon may grow into quite respectable trees! The seeds are still used -as a staple diet item by Southwestern Indians. As pinyon "nuts," they -also find their way into gourmet and specialty food shops. The -inconspicuous flowers appear in spring and the cones mature a year and a -half later, in the fall. - - [Illustration: Mormon Tea] - -[Number: 7C] Mormon tea [Ephedra viridis]. Used by Indians and pioneers -as a stimulant and medicine, the beverage is still used as a spring -tonic by many. - -Ephedra is really kind of a neat plant. Like most desert plants, it has -evolved methods of conserving water. For one thing, it has no leaves. -Look at it closely--it's all stem. Plants can lose a lot of water from -their leaves and many desert plants have leaves modified to reduce water -loss, but Mormon tea has dispensed with leaves entirely (Well, almost -entirely: they get very tiny ones in the spring, which soon fall off). -Plants usually need green leaves to produce food, but Ephedra has many -green stems that carry out that function. - - [Illustration: Yucca] - -[Number: 7B] Yucca [Yucca brevifolia]. The yuccas are very common -throughout the Southwest, from low desert to mountains. There are many -species, but they share one great peculiarity. They are symbiotic with a -little white moth, the Pronuba. - -Female Pronubas live in the blossoms. After mating, the moth collects a -ball of yucca pollen and jams it onto the stigma (female part) of the -flower. Yucca pollen is heavy and sticky; it doesn't float around in the -wind. Other insects do not transport it. The Pronuba insures that the -plant will produce seeds by fertilizing the blossom and then she lays -eggs in the base of the flower where the seeds will grow. The larvae -that hatch from her eggs eat many seeds, but a lot of the seeds mature, -too. The moth will not lay her eggs anywhere else. - -The Pronuba must have yuccas to reproduce. The yuccas must have Pronubas -to reproduce. Neither can get along without the other. - -[Number: 7A] Prickly pear cactus [Opuntia]. Like all desert cactus, -these are well adapted to the arid environment. Like Ephedra, cactus are -all stem, have no leaves, and the stems (or "pads") contain green -chlorophyll, the critically important element in food production. Cactus -spines are modified leaves that serve as effective protection, but are -not functional food producers. When moisture is abundant, cactus pads -get plump and smooth. During extended dry spells, the pads shrink and -wrinkle as the plant uses the stored water. How has the weather been -around here recently? Look at the cactus and you can tell! - - -[Number: 8] 0.5 (4.8) - -You won't get a very good view of Kachina Bridge here, but you will find -it much easier to understand how bridges are formed if you walk out to -the canyon rim. There is no trail, but it's an easy walk without unusual -hazards other than the ever present cliffs. Remember, DON'T WALK ON THE -CRYPTOGAMIC CRUST! - - [Illustration: Desert Varnish] - -Desert varnish, the dark streaks on the canyon walls, is common in arid -areas such as this. Each time the rock gets wet, some moisture is -absorbed by the rock. Water actually seeps into tiny spaces between the -grains of sand. Later, the moisture is drawn out of the rock and -evaporated by hot, dry air. While inside the sandstone, however, the -water dissolves minute amounts of minerals like iron and manganese. When -the water comes to the rock surface and evaporates, the minerals come -with it--but the minerals do not evaporate. They accumulate on the -surface of the rock over thousands of years, slowly forming a very thin -dark crust. - - [Illustration: White Canyon] - -Notice the long, curving, fairly level valley right below you. This is -an important part of the bridge formation story, for that valley was the -stream channel before Kachina Bridge was formed. The stream now flows -through the hole under the bridge, of course, but before there was a -hole the water had to run around this side of the mass of rock that now -forms the bridge. Every time White Canyon flooded (which is every time -it rained very much), the stream cut a little deeper into the base of -the rock and most of the cutting took place right where the stream was -forced to turn toward you. As flood waters roared around this curving -valley, the shape of the canyon also threw them against the downstream -side of the obstructing wall of rock, so that the stream was eating into -both sides of a fairly thin wall. It eventually ate right through the -obstruction, and from then on the stream followed the shorter, -straighter route. Continued erosion enlarged the opening and cut the -channel deeper into the canyon. Downcutting of the new channel left this -old channel high and dry. And there it sits! - -Actually, the water coming down Armstrong Canyon (on the left) also -contributed to bridge development, but we'll get into that at a later -stop. - - [Illustration: Kachina Bridge] - - -[Number: 9] 0.3 (5.1) Kachina Bridge, viewpoint and trailhead - -Kachina is an excellent example of a young bridge. The thick, heavy span -crosses a relatively small opening. The span and abutments are massive, -not slim and graceful. - - [Illustration: Pictographs] - -Below the bridge are ancient pictographs (drawings on stone) that some -people felt represented or at least looked like the Hopi Indian gods -called Kachinas. So the original name was discarded and "Kachina" was -substituted. - -As at the other bridges, there is a very nice little trail down into the -canyon. The trail is in good condition, you can walk it without special -equipment, and it isn't especially strenuous. It is a bit steep, so -coming back on a hot day you may find the trip can be tedious. If the -weather is fairly warm or hot today, you may also want to take water. An -hour or hour and a half is adequate time to allow for the trip--unless -you fool around a lot. - -[Number: 9A] The Monument landscape is typified by hundreds of ledges -and shelves separating the cliffs. Nearly all the canyon walls are lined -with such ledges. That is because the rather hard Cedar Mesa sandstone -is seamed with many thin layers of relatively soft rock. The softer -material erodes very much faster, and as it wears away, the rock above -and below it is also exposed to the elements. As a deep horizontal -crevice develops, support for the rock above it is removed and chunks -eventually fall out. In time, a wide ledge (or shelf, or bench, or -whatever) forms. - -All of the above is happening here, right in front of you. This isn't -just an interesting formation, it's a dynamic, continuing process that -is changing the landscape. - -[Number: 9B] The canyon coming around the corner on your left is -Armstrong Canyon. It joins White Canyon on your right. In front of you -is a waterfall (or it would be there if any water was flowing) above a -deep, narrow plunge pool. This type of thing is often called a "nick -point," and it is evidence of some abrupt change in the canyon's -development. In this case, that change was probably formation of Kachina -Bridge, which changed the gradient, or steepness, of the stream. The -water, rushing over the lip and plunging into the pool, quarries out a -hollow under the lip. In time the lip breaks off, the waterfall moves -back a few feet, and the process goes on. A similar, but somewhat larger -nick point is Niagara Falls. - -If the canyon is dry today, it may be a little difficult to believe the -explanation. If you could be here just after a heavy rain, when the -flood thunders over the rocks at a rate of thousands of gallons each -second, you would find the whole thing more believable. - - [Illustration: Nick Point] - - [Illustration: Little Arch] - -[Number: 9C] This little arch (it's not a bridge) may not win prizes for -size, but it is very handy for helping explain bridge or arch growth. A -bridge is first formed by the action of running water, but much of its -subsequent growth is like development of an arch. Water seeps into tiny -cracks, freezes in winter, and pries flakes or blocks of stone loose. -Alternate heat and cold causes rock to expand and contract and that -opens little cracks, causes tension, etc. If the rock has natural planes -in it, it may break away along those lines. - -If you look at the underside and sides of this little arch, you can see -evidence of these processes. Please don't "help nature along" by prying -pieces loose. - -This arch may not have been here very many centuries, but it is a very -"old" arch. Thin and delicate, the fragile span over a relatively huge -opening is near the end of its life. - -[Number: 9D] Back when we explained bridge formation and abandoned -meanders, we said Armstrong Canyon's run-off played an important role in -Kachina's development and that we would explain it "later." - -Well, now is later. Before the opening was formed, while White Canyon -run-off came around the channel on your right, Armstrong Canyon run-off -flowed down the channel from your left and rushed right against the rock -wall that once existed where the opening now is. Flood waters roaring -down Armstrong would rush out its mouth, cross the White Canyon -streambed, and smash into that rock wall. Floods carry great loads of -sediment: sand, gravel, pebbles, rocks and boulders. These are the teeth -of a flood, the sand and boulders. They are the agents of erosion that -bang, smash and batter any obstruction. It is a bit like a liquid saw -with stone teeth. It's an act of violence, a cataclysm, a ripping and -tearing. There really isn't anything nice or gentle about it, but it's a -great way to undercut rock walls and gnaw holes in them! - -And that is precisely what it did. - -Well, that's about enough for a while. You are more than halfway through -the Monument and we've been telling you what to see, do, and think -entirely long enough. Go now, and just enjoy the rest of this lovely -walk. Walk the trail in leisure and peace. At the bridge are ancient -ruins and irreplaceable prehistoric rock art. Let them speak to you, -respect them, and consider your long gone predecessors here. Consider -your place here, too, and the role you play in our beautiful little -world. - -BEWARE! And go cautiously, for there are spirits here that will make you -part of this land and forever call you back! - - [Illustration: Ancient Ruins and Rock Art] - - -[Number: 10] 2.0 (7.1) Owachomo Bridge viewpoint and trailhead - -Owachomo is a lovely bridge. Long, thin, flat; a fragile old bridge -nearing its logical and inevitable end: collapse. The opening grows very -slowly under an old bridge. The opening widens as the bridge abutments -wear away and the overhead span (the bridge itself) becomes thinner and -thinner, one grain of sand at a time. - -The walk down to this bridge is the easiest of all. You can be down and -back in a half hour (as usual, we recommend that you take longer). It is -not strenuous, compared with the other two, and it offers some nice -insights about bridges. In other words, here's another different point -of view. Owachomo is sort of a different kind of natural bridge, for it -was formed differently than the others. We'll explain that when you get -down there. - -[Number: 10A] We haven't said very much about wildlife here, mostly -because you aren't likely to see much of it. Here however, you can see -the work of a porcupine. Porcupines like to eat pinyon bark at times, -and this pinyon must be pretty tasty. The large rodents gnaw at the tree -to get at the nutritious inner bark, and may in time kill the tree by -girdling it. The inner bark carries needed food and water between roots -and leaves (both up and down), and if all the lifelines between the top -and bottom of the tree are severed, the top will die. - -No, we don't try to "protect" the tree from porcupines. We call this a -natural area, and that means it is an area where we try to let natural -events proceed without the interference of man. That isn't just -"protection" of things, it's protection of a system. It just means that -if the porcupine wants to eat the pinyon, let him do it. It doesn't mean -the porcupine is "worth" more than the pine, nor vice versa. Each has -its own place, its own life, and its own interactions with the rest of -the world. Just like you do! - -[Number: 10B] This is a good place to consider Owachomo's origin and -evolution. - -Run-off from a large area used to flow down the little canyon (Tuwa -Canyon) in front of you, along the base of a rock fin, and into -Armstrong Canyon behind you to your right. Owachomo did not exist; there -was no natural bridge at that time. Flood waters rushing down this side -of the fin ate into the base of the fin and flood waters of Armstrong -Canyon ate into the other side. A hole developed in the fin, creating -the bridge and allowing Tuwa's run-off a shorter route to Armstrong. - -So, Owachomo was formed by the action of two separate streams, and that -makes it different from Kachina and Sipapu (and most other natural -bridges we know about). - - [Illustration: Owachomo Bridge] - -Erosion is a continuing, dynamic process; however, stream channels -gradually change. The run-off from Tuwa no longer flows through the -little canyon in front of you because there is now a deeper canyon on -the other side of the bridge fin. - -[Number: 10C] Passing the "Unmaintained Trail" sign isn't like -abandoning all hope, but it does mean that the trail may be harder to -follow and that we don't do as much to protect or help you. Some hikers -continue from here and go all the way back to Sipapu via the canyon's -trail. Many people start at Sipapu and come out this way (which is a lot -easier), but a few start here and go back. It isn't really a terribly -difficult hike, either way, and it is a lot of fun. - -Owachomo must once have looked like Kachina--massive, solid, strong. -Later, it was more like Sipapu--graceful and well balanced. Now it looks -only like itself and the even more fragile Landscape Arch in Arches -National Park. - -At some time soon, one more grain will fall, a crack will race through -the stone, and the bridge will be a heap of rubble in the canyon. We'll -probably run around and yell a lot when it happens, while the sand -grains will quietly continue to break free and begin the next phase of -their existence. - -If you decide to walk on under the bridge, look behind the left -abutment. There, a thin bed of the softer red stone has eroded back -under the harder stuff of which the bridge is made. As erosion eats into -the red-bed, removing support from the abutment, the future of the -bridge becomes less and less secure. Frankly, we always feel a little -nervous standing under it (where you are now) because it might collapse -... now! - -As you return to your car, be aware that you may hear the death roar of -Owachomo. The final, critical grain of sand may slip out of place, a -bird may land on the bridge, or one of your military jets may pass at -supersonic speed. However it happens, Owachomo must someday fall. And -its billions of sand grains must continue their journey to another -resting place, and that's the way it ought to be. - - -[Number: 11] 1.4 (8.5) Maverick Point View - -To your right, across what appears as a fairly level stretch of -pinyon-juniper forest, the Cedar Mesa sandstone is cut, slashed, -incised, and divided by a bewildering complex of canyons. Slightly to -the left of the "flats," Maverick Point, Bears Ears, and long Elk Ridge -(named by and for three cowboys with the initials E, L, and K, if you'd -like another point of view!) form the skyline. Bears Ears, by the way, -was named by Spanish explorers far to the south, from which point they -look just like a bear peeking over the ridge. - - -[Number: 12] 0.6 (9.1) Sunset Point - -If sunset is imminent, stay right here. Sunsets are sometimes very -spectacular here. - -Now go, and travel in peace, comfort and safety. Come again when the -Canyon Country calls, if you can, but remember always that it remains -here waiting, free, beautiful and untamed. - -If you have questions about this magnificent land, stop at the Visitor -Center. The men and women of the National Park Service will be greatly -pleased to talk with you of this and the 300 other areas they serve for -you and your children. And their children. And theirs. - - [Illustration: _Sunset Point_] - - [Illustration: Solar Photovoltaic Power System] - - -[Number: 13] Solar Photovoltaic Power System - -Most of the electricity used in the Monument is produced by converting -sunlight directly into electricity. The process seems a little bit like -magic, but it really does work. The system here is a demonstration of -the feasibility of supplying small, remotely located communities with -electricity without using fossil fuels to produce it. This process is -liable to become very widely used within a decade, so the Natural -Bridges installation is sort of a peek into the future. Exhibits and -information leaflet explain the system in detail. - - [Illustration: Map showing national parks and monuments in the Four - Corners region] - - - - -Transcriber's Notes - - ---Retained publication information from the printed edition: this eBook - is public-domain in the country of publication. - ---Corrected a few palpable typos. - ---In the text versions only, text in italics is delimited by - _underscores_. - - - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of A Guide to Natural Bridges National -Monument, Utah, by Anonymous - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK NATURAL BRIDGES NATIONAL MONUMENT, UTAH *** - -***** This file should be named 51640.txt or 51640.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/5/1/6/4/51640/ - -Produced by Stephen Hutcheson, Dave Morgan and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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