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diff --git a/old/51849.txt b/old/51849.txt deleted file mode 100644 index bc17595..0000000 --- a/old/51849.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,2179 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Overland Route to the Road of a -Thousand Wonders, by Anonymous - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - -Title: The Overland Route to the Road of a Thousand Wonders - -Author: Anonymous - -Release Date: April 24, 2016 [EBook #51849] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ASCII - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ROAD OF A THOUSAND WONDERS *** - - - - -Produced by Stephen Hutcheson, Rick Morris and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net - - - - - - - - - - _The_ OVERLAND - ROUTE to _The_ Road - _of_ a Thousand Wonders - - - _The_ ROUTE OF _The_ UNION PACIFIC _& The_ SOUTHERN PACIFIC FROM OMAHA - TO SAN FRANCISCO - A JOURNEY OF EIGHTEEN HUNDRED MILES WHERE ONCE _The_ BISON _& The_ - INDIAN REIGNED - - - Over the wagon trail of the hardy Pioneers runs the Overland Route as - pictured in these pages; over vast plains, once prairie, now farmland; -past the high outpost of the Rockies; across the surface of that strange -inland sea, Great Salt Lake; over the crest of the high Sierra; through - picturesque canyon and valley to the Golden Gate - - - ISSUED BY THE - UNION PACIFIC AND SOUTHERN PACIFIC - PASSENGER DEPARTMENTS - 1908 - - [Illustration: The OVERLAND ROUTE - Union Pacific & Southern Pacific between Omaha & San Francisco] - -[Illustration: DEFENDING THE WORK TRAIN. THERE WAS AN INDIAN ARROW SHOT -FOR EVERY SPIKE DRIVEN IN THE IRON TRAIL OF THE OVERLAND ROUTE. -ENCOUNTERS WERE NUMEROUS AND OFTEN FATAL.] - - - - - THE OVERLAND ROUTE - - -[Illustration: THE BUFFALO--CORONADO'S HUMP BACKED OXEN--PASSED WHEN THE -WAGON TRAIL GAVE WAY TO THE RAILROAD] - -[Illustration: Drop-cap illustrated "T"] - -The memory of the Overland Trail will not soon pass away. Traces of it -are left here and there in the West, but the winds and rain and the -erosion of civilization have nearly rubbed it out. Yet in its time it -was the greatest wagon way. All in all, from the Council Bluffs crossing -of the Missouri to the Golden Gate of the Pacific, it was two thousand -miles long. - -Vague are legend and story, prior to the nineteenth century, of the -country it was to traverse. One legend indicates that Coronado visited -the land of the "humpbacked oxen" in the sixteenth century; a tale of -like uncertainty credits Baron La Honton with a visit to Great Salt Lake -in the century following. The Franciscan friars, Escalante and -Dominguez, saw Utah Lake in 1776, and carried home strange stories of a -sea of salt farther north. - -The Lewis and Clark expedition to the mouth of the Columbia, starting -from St. Louis in 1804, is the beginning of the history of the Overland -Trail. Soon after came the Astor party, which in 1811 founded Astoria. -Thirteen years later, a most adventurous spirit, a daring hunter and -pioneer, Jim Bridger, began his picturesque career in the West. Caring -for no neighbors in the wilderness, at home in the high mountains, on -the treeless plains or in the desert, this fearless and intelligent man -sent out much accurate information and guided the Mormon "First Company" -to its future home. - -In 1843 the Pathfinder, General John C. Fremont, began to spy out the -military ways across the West, and the same year the Oregon pioneers -took the first wagons westward to the Pacific. - -The trail that began with the journey of these Oregon pioneers was -widened and deepened by the wheels of the Mormons in 1847; and when the -herald of the first California Golden Age sent forth a trumpet call in -'Forty-nine, heard around the world, the trail was finished from Great -Salt Lake across the mountains to the sea. - -That era had its great men, for great men make eras. Ben Holladay, -William N. Russell, and Edward Creighton gave to the trail the Overland -Stage Line and the Pony Express and the telegraph. - -Dating the beginning of transcontinental wagon travel from the days of -'Forty-nine, it was twenty years before the railway reached California. -The period was one of great out-of-doors men and women--the last of -American pioneers. When the old trail was in full tide of life, it was -filled with gold-seekers from the Missouri to the Pacific. A hundred -thousand souls passed over it yearly. Towns, stirring and turbulent, -some now gone from the map and some grown to be cities, flourished as -the green bay tree. Omaha, Salt Lake, and San Francisco, and such lesser -places as Julesburg, Cheyenne, Laramie, Carson, Elko, and Virginia City -were picturesquely lively. Hardly was there a stage station without its -stirring story of swift life and sudden death, and long and short haired -characters with fighting reputations were to be found anywhere from St. -Joseph to San Francisco. - -[Illustration: HANSCOMB PARK, OMAHA, IS PLEASANT WITH SHADY TREES AND -SPARKLING WATERS] - -The traffic of the old trail was of long wagon trains of emigrants; of -great ox outfits laden with freight for the mines; of Holladay's -coaches, six teams in full gallop, station to station; of the fast -riders of the Pony Express, and of all other manner of moving men and -beasts that might join the line of the westward march. Outlaws lived -along the trail and as opportunity offered, plundered its followers; the -protesting savages having no place upon it, but perceiving in it an -instrument to alienate their dominion, burned its wagon trains and -destroyed its stages as opportunity offered. At times great herds of -buffalo obliterated sections of the trail. Yet it held its own until the -golden spike was driven, and passed away as a wagon road only when the -need for it passed. But the railway lines that took up the burden of -stage coach and Pony Express and ox team, have marked the way of the -trail upon the map of the West so that it shall endure as long as the -West endures. - -[Illustration: THE OVERLAND ROUTE BEGINS AT THE MISSOURI, CROSSING FROM -COUNCIL BLUFFS TO OMAHA ON A DOUBLE TRACK BRIDGE OF STEEL] - -In the early days when the gold seekers sought San Francisco across the -Isthmus, around the Horn, or by way of the trail, it is said that a -Dutch landlord in San Francisco greeted his guests with the query: "Did -you come the Horn around, the Isthmus across, or the land over?" Through -some such distinction from the waterways, the wagon road from the -Missouri came by its name, and to-day the railroad that succeeded it is -known everywhere as the Overland Route. The railway came in the face of -opposition and predictions of disaster. The builders were men to whom -difficulty merely meant more effort, men who were not to be denied. The -Pacific Railroads, as they were styled, were two; the Union Pacific and -the Central Pacific. Starting, one from the center, the other from the -extreme westward verge of the United States, they rapidly moved towards -a junction; the Union Pacific being built westward from Council Bluffs; -the Southern Pacific eastward from Sacramento. On May 10, 1869, they met -at Promontory, Utah, and then and there was signalized the spanning of -the continent by the driving of the golden spike. In the presence of -eleven hundred people, this last spike was driven into a tie of polished -California laurel by Leland Stanford, president of the Central Pacific, -and Thomas C. Durant, president of the Union Pacific. A prayer was said, -the pilots of the engines touched, and a libation of wine was poured -between, and the message, "The last rail is laid, the last spike driven, -and the Pacific Railroad is completed," was flashed to the President of -the United States. - -By a decision of the Supreme Court of the United States, the beginning -of the Overland Route is at Council Bluffs, in Iowa. - -The "Bluffs," according to tradition, were for centuries the meeting -place of Indians to settle tribal disputes--a supreme court place of the -aborigines. The city antedates Omaha many years, and has buildings that -were old when Omaha was born. As a place of beauty and much activity -Council Bluffs is well worth a pause in a journey to visit. - -The first rails of the Overland Route were laid westward from Omaha in -July, 1865. There was no rail line between Omaha and Des Moines, and the -first seventy-horse power engine was brought by wagons from Des Moines -to begin the work of construction. Ties came from Michigan and -Pennsylvania at a cost sometimes of $2.50 each. All supplies had to be -brought from the East. - -[Illustration: OMAHA, METROPOLIS OF NEBRASKA, IN FIFTY YEARS HAS GROWN -FROM A VILLAGE TO ONE OF THE MOST IMPORTANT CITIES OF THE WEST] - -The Council Bluffs and Nebraska Ferry Company was organized July 23, -1853. The promoters and the Indian Chiefs met in dignified conclave and -with pow-wow and peace-pipe a treaty was concluded and, title acquired -to the townsite and ratified by the Government, Omaha was founded in the -following year. The town that was once a fringe along the waterfront has -spread back over the uplands, and with great business blocks and -beautiful homes has become a city of a hundred and fifty thousand -people, a fitting gateway to the great West. - -[Illustration: THE EASTERN ENTRANCE TO THE UNION-PACIFIC BRIDGE ACROSS -THE MISSOURI IS FITTINGLY CROWNED WITH A BUFFALO'S HEAD] - -Near by is the site of historic Florence, gathering place of the Mormons -after their enforced and hasty exodus from their persecutors at Nauvoo, -Illinois. This was in the winter of 1846, and, after a brief rest, from -here on April 6, 1847, began the march of the first company of one -hundred and forty-three men, three women and two children to Salt Lake -over an unbroken trail, accomplished without the loss of one soul. The -journey occupied one hundred and nine days, in striking contrast with -the present fifty-six hour trip of the Overland Limited from Omaha to -San Francisco. The first company toiled through sand in canvas covered -wagons; the Overland Limited traveler has at his disposal modern drawing -rooms, state rooms, and sleeping car sections, a club cafe, with writing -desk, tables, and easy chairs, an observation parlor with easy seats and -library and a recessed rotunda, giving an open air view of the scenery. -Instead of circling a smoky camp fire with frying pan and toasting fork, -he dines at ease in a tastefully appointed car, supplied with the best -the markets of two sides of the continent afford, while at night he can, -at will, read in his electric lighted berth, the trials of earlier -wanderers. - -[Illustration: THE BLOCK SYSTEM EFFECTUALLY SAFEGUARDS THE TRAINS OF THE -OVERLAND ROUTE] - -Leaving Omaha, the Overland Limited passes through South Omaha, third -place in the United States in the packing of meat products. Just beyond -may be noted to advantage the block safety system, in operation on the -Overland Route all the way to San Francisco. - -Fremont, well situated at the junction of the Platte and Elkhorn -valleys, is a prosperous and beautiful city of ten thousand people. The -next stop is Columbus, a place of four thousand people, junction point -of the Norfolk branch. Citizen George Francis Train, the irrepressible, -decided that Columbus was the geographical center of the United States, -and announced that the capital should be removed there at once; but so -busy was the country with the Civil War at the time, that the idea was -seemingly overlooked and has remained unadopted. - -From Columbus the passenger is carried over a way that does not waver -from a straight line for forty-one miles. On every side is unrolled a -pastoral panorama as splendid as any in the world. To view it, when the -headers and binders are at work in the golden fields interspersed with -stretches of green growing corn, is to grasp the greatness of -agricultural Nebraska. - -From Omaha westward to the first glimpse of the white summits of the -Rockies, the way is through visions of country loveliness. As the -Limited ascends on its journey westward and rises above the corn levels -nearer the Missouri, meadows join the grain fields. Stacks of hay are -deployed over the plains as are soldiers on a battlefield. The homes of -farmers are impressive with evidence of a prosperous and proper pride. -The fences are straight and symmetrical, the houses all well painted; -there are great red barns to remind you of Pennsylvania, and active -windmills tower over all as landmarks. The scene is given life by high -grade cattle, sleek horses, and flocks of well kept sheep. Above is bent -over the landscape a sky of clear blue, where troop the vagrant clouds -amid its arches, and all is permeated with air pure and sweet beyond -description. Such is Nebraska. - -[Illustration: HERDS OF HIGH GRADE CATTLE HAVE USURPED THE PASTURES OF -THE BUFFALO] - -The agricultural area along the line of the Overland Route, east of the -Rockies, from producing nothing fifty years ago, now yields annually a -half billion dollars, and this apart from and in addition to the immense -livestock and mineral output. Nebraska alone has a property value -exceeding two billion dollars. - -[Illustration: CATTLE NOONING AT NORTH BEND, NEBRASKA, NEAR THE PLATTE -RIVER] - -Grand Island is a thousand feet higher than Omaha. Here Robert Stuart of -the Astor party camped in 1812 and called the island in the river Le -Grande Isle. On Independence Day, 1857, a little company of Germans from -Davenport, Iowa, named their newly started town after the island, now -grown to a prosperous city of ten thousand people. Among other things -they do here is to make a thousand pounds of beet sugar annually for -each inhabitant. Grand Island and the section immediately to the west to -old Fort Kearney and beyond were the scene of many Indian fights when -the Overland Route was being built. - -[Illustration: IN THE CITY PARK OF COLUMBUS, THE SEAT OF PLATTE COUNTY, -IS A MEMORIAL TO THE CIVIL WAR HEROES] - -Kearney is the next town of importance westward. Not far from here is -the site of old Fort Kearney, where in these early days of progress were -acted more stories of desperate fights and literally hair-raising -adventures than Fenimore Cooper ever dreamed of, and where Major Frank -J. North, with his four companies of Pawnee Indians made history -defending the Overland Route against hostile Indians during the -construction period. As an Indian fighter he had no superior. It was fun -alive for him to take a band of scouts and clean out a whole tribe of -hostiles, and he did it so frequently that his name became a terror to -the Indians. The Plum Creek, Ogalalla, and Summit Springs campaigns -under Major North's direction did much to prove conclusively to the -Sioux and Cheyennes that he was their absolute master. Kearney is now a -city of eight thousand people, and is the site of the State Normal -School. To the northwest from Kearney runs a branch line through the -beautiful Wood River Valley, opening to the city a great tributary -territory. - -Lexington, now a prosperous town of twenty-five hundred people, was once -called Plum Creek. Here in 1867 the Southern Cheyennes, under Chief -Turkey Leg, captured and burned a freight train. In the subsequent -campaign already alluded to, they were thoroughly subdued and many of -them made good Indians. Lexington is now more famous for its great -irrigation system than for Indians. Great grain and vegetable crops are -raised. - -West of Lexington sixty-six miles is North Platte, a place of four -thousand people, and much more lively than the North Platte River. Here -we have a good view of the river, which in summer time is the laziest -thing that moves in all Nebraska. Like Hammerton's summer air, it "has -times of noble energy and times of perfect peace." North Platte has -great agricultural and stock interests; hence have been shipped a -million tons of hay per annum. Here is the home of Buffalo Bill, most -famous perhaps of all the plains' scouts. Near by is his famous Scouts' -Rest ranch. - -From Kearney westward to Julesburg are little towns, around some of -which cluster memories of earlier days. To Ogalalla, for instance, in -Texas cattle-driving time were driven thousands of long-horns from the -Lone Star State to start by rail for the eastern markets. - -[Illustration: THE ROUTE RUNS BY A SEA OF WIND-WAVED GRAIN NEAR SHELTON -AND GIBBON, NEBRASKA] - -The West had many styles of wildness, and the cowboy style was one. It -was different from all others. The writer was familiar with them and can -discriminate. There was system usually in the frontier wildness; men -killed each other, but for some cause great or small. But cowboy -wildness was not to be measured by rule or reason. The cowboy was -picturesque. He wore a roll around his broad brimmed hat, a red sash -around his waist, big spurs, high heeled boots with the Lone Star of -Texas embroidered on the top, an open shirt and two six-shooters. In -appearance he was one-half Mexican and the other half savage. -Opportunity to shoot down a man or "up a town" meant the more fame was -his when he should return to the Brazos. His touch upon the trigger was -as "light and free" as the touch of Bret Harte's Thompson and there was -no limit, while ammunition and targets lasted, to the "mortality -incident upon that lightness and freedom." - -[Illustration: THE "OVERLAND ROUTE" STATION AT COLUMBUS] - -Julesburg, 372 miles west of Omaha, was in 1865 an important stage -station on the Overland Route, and as a supply point was the subject of -much attention from the Indians. On one occasion a thousand Sioux and -Cheyennes attacked it, but were finally driven off. The station was -named after one Jules, agent for Ben Holladay's stage line. He was -killed by J. A. Slade, a noted desperado, who fought both for and -against law and order. His career and that of his faithful wife are set -forth in Mark Twain's "Roughing It." - -[Illustration: AT NORTH PLATTE, NEBRASKA, COLONEL CODY (BUFFALO BILL) -HAS A RANCH WHICH HE NAMED "SCOUT'S REST" IN MEMORY OF FRONTIER DAYS] - -Long after Julesburg was an Overland Route railway station, the buffalo -fed on the plains around it. These animals should have some share in the -credit for the construction of the Overland Railways. Their destruction, -if deplorable, was a factor in the success of the builders. They -provided sustenance for the brawn of the workman almost all the way -across the plains from Omaha to the Rockies, and while rib steaks and -succulent humps comforted the inner man their robes kept warm the outer -one. The camp hunter did not have to travel far for meat those days. -Time was, and not so many years ago, when an Indian would trade a -buffalo robe for a cup of sugar or a yard of red flannel, but now save -in a few parks and exhibition places the buffalo has passed away. The -plains were at one time strewn with their white bones. It was the custom -of the Mormons to use the frontal bones of their skulls as tablets -whereon to write brief messages to the wagon trains following. One may -be seen in the Commercial Club museum, Salt Lake City, bearing in -Brigham Young's writing the inscription: - -[Illustration: THE NORTH PLATTE, KNOWN TO CIVILIZATION SINCE THE -EXPEDITION OF JOHN JACOB ASTOR IN 1812] - - "Pioneers camped here June 3, '47, making fifteen miles a day. All - well. - - Brigham Young." - -After Sidney, a rich farming town of two thousand people, and in 1868 a -military post of importance, the Overland Limited stops at Cheyenne. -Shortly before reaching Cheyenne, Long's Peak, with snow-clad summit -appears above the horizon. - -[Illustration: WYOMING COWBOYS DELIGHT TO MATCH THEIR SKILL] - -Five hundred and sixteen miles west and a mile higher than Omaha on the -last and highest of the tablelands that fringe the plains is Cheyenne, -capital of Wyoming and a growing, lively city of fifteen thousand -people. Above it loom the massive Rockies; around it are great plains, -partly irrigated from the great five hundred million-gallon reservoir. -Here each summer is held one of the most picturesque and representative -gatherings in the country--the Frontier Day celebration, when the -mountains and the most distant plains yield up their cattlemen and -cowboys, their hunters, trappers, Indians, and outpost men generally to -contest for honors in riding, tieing steers, horse breaking, shooting -and other frontier sports. No gayer or more picturesque crowd ever -assembled than this. - -[Illustration: THE WYOMING COWPUNCHER IS STILL IN EVIDENCE AS A -PICTURESQUE AND USEFUL FACTOR OF THE PLAINS LIFE] - -Cheyenne is a great livestock center, has railway shops, is the junction -for the Denver and Kansas City branch of the Union Pacific, and is -making progress as a mercantile and manufacturing place. With its -beautiful Carnegie library and half million dollar Federal building and -other excellent buildings, there is little to recall the town of the -early sixties, when its reputation was extended as a shipping center for -the long trails of cattle, and noted as a famous place for carved -saddles. Among its first pioneers was James B. Hickok (Wild Bill), a -brave gentleman, a great scout and guide, and noted throughout the West -as a superb horseman, and one of the most wonderful marksmen with a -six-shooter that ever lived. He was chief of scouts under Custer in the -Indian campaigns of 1868-69 and the latter paid him high tribute in his -book, "My Life on the Plains." - -Westward from Cheyenne the Overland Route rises steadily to the summit -of the Rockies, the crest of which it passes through by a long tunnel to -the slope whence waters flow to the Pacific. Near this tunnel is the -Ames monument. - -[Illustration: AN INDIAN ENCAMPMENT AT CHEYENNE, WYOMING] - -Here on the summit at Sherman, eight thousand feet above sea level, one -may pause for a sweeping glance that can take in the watersheds of two -oceans. The atmosphere is so clear that the eye can view the country for -hundreds of miles, though to the untrained sight, distances are -deceiving. Silhouetted against the northern sky is Long's Peak; -northward the range breaks down on to the Black Hills with their Twin -Mountains; eastward the country slopes symmetrically to the plains, -treeless, level to where their horizon meets the curve of the sky. -Westward are tumbled a confusion of mountains immeasurable, and far off -to the southwestward if the weather be clear, may be seen the sparkling -ridge of the Snowy Range, refreshing with its suggestion of coolness. - -[Illustration: THE STATE CAPITOL. CHEYENNE, WYOMING] - -The roadbed of the Union Pacific is the best in the world. It is -absolutely dustless, and the stability of steel and ties insures the -smoothest possible riding. No other roadbed may equal this, for none -other has access to the famous Sherman granite, the best and cleanest -ballasting material known, which has created this unrivaled pink trail -across plains and mountains. - -[Illustration: EXPERIMENTS ON THE GOVERNMENT FARM AT CHEYENNE HAVE -PRODUCED WONDERFUL RESULTS ON UNIRRIGATED LAND RECLAIMED FROM THE -SAGE-BRUSH PLAINS.] - -Laramie has railroad shops and other industries. A clean and prosperous -city, the far reaching Laramie plains, once the bed of an ancient sea, -make of it a great livestock center. The State University, the United -States Experiment Station, the State Normal School, and the State School -of Music are here. The fishing and hunting in the streams and mountains -that can be readily reached from Laramie, constitute one of the few -really first-class hunting grounds left in the United States. More of -wilderness is accessible from Laramie and neighboring stations than -perhaps from any other railway station in our country. - -[Illustration: AN ORIGINAL AMERICAN. CHIEF OF A DISAPPEARING RACE - Copyright by F A Rinehart, Omaha.] - -Laramie is the center of a wonderful mineral section; near by are soda -lakes large enough to raise all the world's biscuits for centuries to -come. - -West of Laramie and fifteen miles away rises Elk Mountain, 11,511 feet -high, which by its isolation was a noted landmark in the days of the -trail. Northward twenty miles, dark and rugged, is Laramie Peak, another -landmark of the Rockies, rising blue and solitary from the plain. Both -peaks are visible from the car windows. - -Passing beautiful Rock River, we reach Hanna, on the eastern border of -the great coal measure of Wyoming. Six thousand people live here, but -only half are on the surface at any one time. Between Medicine Bow and -Fort Steele, now abandoned but once a celebrated fort, the best views of -the Medicine Bow range are to be had. At Fort Steele are hot springs, -and we cross again the North Platte River, but at an altitude some four -thousand feet higher than the Nebraska crossing. - -Rawlins, named after Grant's Secretary of War, is an important -distributing point of three thousand people, whence hunters, miners, and -stockmen outfit for the Wind River Valley and other sections north and -south. From Rawlins the ascent is made to the Divide, seven thousand one -hundred and four feet above sea level, the highest point between Sherman -and Ogden. The grades are gentle now, for along here some of the -heaviest and most skillful work in the reconstruction of the Overland -Route was done. - -[Illustration: PASSENGER STATION AND GROUNDS AT CHEYENNE] - -The next stop is at Rock Springs, the greatest coal mining town in the -West. The town itself has the typical appearance of an active country -town, and there is little on the surface to indicate the labyrinthine -workings of the great underground measures, part of the vast mineral -treasure house of the state. Wyoming is a state of both underground and -over-ground industries, with its coal mines, gold mines, copper mines, -its great flocks of sheep and herds of cattle, and lastly a newly -developed agricultural field of great possibilities. - -Green River is a lively railway center with division headquarters. The -beautiful river of that name is of clear water, but gains its color from -the copper-green shale over which it runs. The wonderfully colored -shales give to the rocks that rise above it an added interest to their -striking forms. This is the paradise of the geologist. The Green River -Shales varying in thickness from a knife's blade to several feet, are -full of fossils, fish, insects, and whatnot of ancient life. In them -have been uncovered the skeletons of huge ancient monsters. Agates and -other gems are found hereabouts in great variety and quantity. - -At the next stop, Granger, the line of the Overland Route to Portland, -Seattle, Tacoma and Spokane branches off to the northwest. - -[Illustration: AT LARAMIE IS LOCATED THE UNIVERSITY OF WYOMING] - -From Leroy, seventy-four miles west of Green River, the new line to Bear -River is taken, avoiding the old time Tapioca hill. This new stretch of -road is most picturesque; the approach to the famous Aspen tunnel is -through the historic Pioneer Valley, about which the train climbs with -graceful sweeps. Next to the cut-off over Great Salt Lake the Aspen -tunnel affords the best illustration of what genius and money may do to -accomplish wonders in railway construction. The tunnel, a mile and a -tenth long, passes through Aspen ridge, four hundred and fifty-six feet -below the mountain top and at an altitude of seven thousand two hundred -and ninety-six feet. The distance saved is ten miles, the greatest grade -is forty-three feet to the mile, and the sharpest curve three degrees, -thirty-six inches. - -Evanston, nine hundred and twenty-seven miles from Omaha, is the end of -a division, a prettily placed city with a Federal building, a Carnegie -library and many natural attractions. The streams provide great trout -fishing, and many hunting parties start on mountain expeditions from -Evanston. Just beyond we pass Castle Rock, a symmetrical stone sentinel -posted in the desert and which in the day of wagon migration was a -welcome sign that not far beyond the "Promised Land" would be found. To -the south lie the Uintah Mountains. - -Yet a little way beyond the graving tools of nature have wrought out two -canyons, indescribable in their beauty, infinite in their variety. - -[Illustration: AT FORT SANDERS, A FEW MILES SOUTH OF LARAMIE, IN 1867, -GENERAL GRANT AND HIS SUITE WERE PHOTOGRAPHED EN ROUTE OVER THE UNION -PACIFIC TO ARRANGE TREATIES WITH THE INDIAN TRIBES WHICH OPPOSED THE -RAILROAD CONSTRUCTION] - -The train drops gently into Echo Canyon, running over rails alongside a -mountain torrent. All along the way are Nature's cathedrals. There are -turrets and domes of gray stone, matching the architecture of an -oriental city. At almost every step of the journey through the canyons -are new and exquisite pictures, rock-framed, or strange monuments of -stone. Immense rocks, perched on the verges of precipices, seem to -threaten a fall into the abyss. The train passes under frowning cliffs, -crossing and recrossing the rushing river; now by waterfalls and -cascades; now bursting into a zone of sunshine, then into the twilight -between higher walls. The colors are the gray of rock and green of pine, -with here and there a splash of iron red. - -[Illustration: EROSION HAS SCULPTURED MANY MONUMENTS OF WEIRD SHAPES AND -BRIGHT COLORS FROM THE RED SANDSTONE OF THE LARAMIE PLAINS] - -Winged Rock, Kettle Rocks, Hood Rock, Hanging Rock, Pulpit Rock, The -Narrows, Steamboat Rock, Monument Rock, The Cathedral, Battlement Rock, -The Witches, Eagle's Nest, The Devil's Slide, The Devil's Gap, and The -Devil's Gate are names given to wonderful rock formations which can be -comprehended only by the eye, words being valueless. The canyon walls -are from five hundred to eight hundred feet high, and possess more weird -and striking rock formations than any other known canyons of equal -length. - -[Illustration: AT COLORES, ROCKS TURNED BY THE LATHE OF THE WINDS INTO -UNUSUAL SHAPES, ARE IN SIGHT FROM THE CAR WINDOW] - -Out of the Canyon the train breaks into one of Utah's wonderful valleys, -and in a little while reaches the Union Station at Ogden. - -Here the passenger who wishes to visit Salt Lake makes an hour's side -trip through a garden section to the capital of Zion. There is no extra -expense--all Overland Route tickets are good via Salt Lake or will be -made good upon presentation to the Ogden Union Depot Ticket Agent. - -Salt Lake has been famous more than half a century. In the lifetime of -the great Overland Trail it was the great oasis in the two thousand mile -journey between the "States" and the Pacific; and westward or eastward -bound, the travelers looked forward to it with fond anticipation. To the -Mormons it was Zion--home of their faith and haven from persecution, -where they might build a kingdom. - -Salt Lake came into life on July 24, 1847, when there was not an -American settlement west of the Missouri and California was under -Mexican dominion. With the arrival of the first train of one hundred and -twenty-one wagons began far western agriculture. The new comers put -their hands to the plow the clay of their coming and began the first -irrigation canal built by the white race in America. And while redeeming -the wilderness and making the deserts blossom, they built a city with -such careful planning of streets and open places, of statues and public -buildings, such attractions of tree and vine, of home and temple, of -park and boulevard, that it has become a place of great interest to all -travelers, even though world-wide weary. - -Salt Lake has that historic interest due such an oasis of the old -Overland Trail, where, before the days of that Trail, came a little band -of people so strong in their faith that unfaltering they left trodden -ways a thousand miles to build their temple in the desert. With -background of mountains (the Wasatch Range) and face set toward a -marvelous, silent sea, Salt Lake's estate is one of natural charm. - -Metropolis of the great intermountain country, with fertile, irrigated -valleys, the city's destiny is perhaps chiefly to be forecasted in -manufactures. To-day, with its mountains of minerals, cheap coal, great -smelters (placed a proper distance from the city's homes), it has first -rank among the ore reducing centers of the country. - -The great turtle-shaped Tabernacle houses the sweetest organ in the -world--one that sings and almost speaks. Its acoustic properties are -such that a whisper lives from one end to the other. Seven thousand -people may at one time hear a spoken word. Near by is the Temple, a -building of remarkable architectural interest, home of the Mormon church -and sanctuary of its secrets. The museum adjoins the Tabernacle. The -Lion House, the Bee Hive and Amelia's Palace have part in history. - -The new Union Depot of the Overland Route in Salt Lake City will be in -architecture and appointments equal to any in the country. - -[Illustration: ROCK RIVER, FULL OF LUSTY TROUT, COMES SPARKLING FROM -DISTANT SNOW PEAKS AND PASSES UNDER A MODERN BRIDGE] - -The greatest charm of Salt Lake City is in the many broad, tree-lined -avenues, with streams of water flowing along the curbs. On either side -in the principal residence districts, are beautiful homes, largely built -from the proceeds of Utah mines. The public buildings are attractive, -and the city park a resting place with lovely lawns and flowers and -groves. The hot springs (within the city) and Fort Douglas should be -visited, nor should any stranger depart without passing an afternoon at -Saltair, the principal bathing resort on Salt Lake, with its immense -pavilion, promenade walks, and wharves extending far out into the salt -water. Here one may float for hours in warm, buoyant salt water--buoyant -and salty indeed beyond any other water on earth save the Dead Sea. - -No people are more kindly and hospitable than those of Salt Lake. They -differ among themselves as to the plan of salvation, but are united in -the belief that if there be a heaven on earth, Salt Lake is that heaven, -and its portals are open to all who may choose to add themselves to the -eighty thousand there now. - -Ogden has some twenty thousand people. Its present considered commercial -and manufacturing importance is but a suggestion of the greatness to be. -Ogden Canyon, easy of access, is a mountain rift with beauty of stream -and wall. The sugar mills and electric power plants are interesting. - -[Illustration: GREEN RIVER RUNS OVER COPPER-STAINED ROCKS AND PEBBLES -THROUGH A COUNTRY OF ROMANTIC SCENERY AND ABUNDANCE OF WILD GAME.] - -Utah is great in agriculture, fruit growing, stock raising and mining. -The mines have yielded four hundred million dollars--gold, silver, -copper, lead, and coal. The fruits are of fine flavor and exceptional -keeping quality. Of its agricultural area, a large proportion is as -gardenlike, perhaps, in its intensive cultivation, as any part of the -West, with proportionately rich yields. The livestock and sheep -industries, have made many wealthy or well-to-do. - -Before journeying farther west it may be well to consider the two eras -in the history of the Pacific Railroads. - -The total first cost of the Pacific Railroads--Union and Central -Pacific--was $115,214,587.79. Such was the report of the Secretary of -Interior to the committee of inspection. The work was undertaken -westward from Omaha (1865) and eastward from Sacramento (1863). The -intense rivalry generated by the desire of each company to build as far -as possible before the junction should be effected resulted in marvelous -celerity in construction, if the conditions be taken into consideration. -Collis P. Huntington said before the Senate Committee of Congress: - - "There were difficulties from end to end; from high and steep - mountains; from snows; from deserts where there was scarcity of water, - and from gorges and flats where there was an excess; difficulties from - cold and from heat; from a scarcity of timber, and from obstructions - of rock; difficulties in keeping supplied a large force on a long - line; from Indians, and from want of labor." - -[Illustration: NEAR THE TOWN OF GREEN RIVER, RISE NUMBERS OF SANDSTONE -BUTTES IN INFINITE VARIETY OF SHAPE AND COLOR. THE ENTRANCE TO THE -INFERNO MIGHT WELL BE IMAGINED HERE] - -[Illustration: WYOMING IS FAMOUS FOR ALWAYS KEEPING ITS LAVISH PROMISES -TO SPORTSMEN.] - -For six hundred miles there was not one white inhabitant; for stretches -of one hundred miles not a drink of water. - -Yet ten miles of track were laid in one day, and for several days faster -than ox teams could follow with loads. Twenty-five thousand workmen were -employed, and more than five thousand teams. At one time thirty ships -were en route from the Atlantic coast to San Francisco with supplies. -Between January, 1866, and May 10, 1869, over two thousand miles of -railroad were constructed through the wilderness. - -Less dramatic has been the reconstruction of the Pacific railroads, and -yet not less in interest. By the year 1900, the transcontinental traffic -of the country and its promise for the future had outgrown its first -main highway. To the present owners and management, under the direction -of the president, E. H. Harriman, fell the task of reconstruction; the -task of tearing up the old track and replacing it with new; of -abandoning a large part of the route and choosing new grades; of cutting -through mountains by tunnels where formerly the track was laid around or -over them; of replacing wooden bridges with steel; and short sidetracks -with long ones. The expense of the work of reconstruction to date -probably nearly equals the first cost. - -In this work of rebuilding, the eight-million dollar Great Salt Lake -cut-off stands prominently as the most startling of achievements in -railway work. The old road through the country where the golden spike -was driven was abandoned as a part of the main highway for a distance of -146.68 miles. To save grades and distance, the cut-off was built across -the heart of the lake from Ogden to Lucin, 102.91 miles and so nearly -straight that it is only one-third of a mile longer than an air line. - -[Illustration: AN OVERLAND COACH, PHOTOGRAPHED IN THE DAYS OF THE MORMON -EXODUS FROM ILLINOIS TO UTAH] - -[Illustration: CHIEF WHITE WHIRLWIND IN HIS WAR ARRAY. A GRIM AND -FORMIDABLE WARRIOR IN BYGONE DAYS OF THE OVERLAND ROUTE - Copyright by F. A. Rinehart, Omaha.] - -The curves which have been thus saved by the new line would be -sufficient to turn a train around eleven times. The power saved in -moving an average freight train because of less grades would lift an -average man eight thousand five hundred miles. The power saved in moving -such a train because of the shorter distance would be sufficient to -carry a man two hundred round trips between New York and San Francisco. -The heart of Great Salt Lake is crossed by the Overland Limited by -daylight. The lake covers two thousand square miles, is eighty-three -miles long and fifty-one miles wide; its greatest depth is thirty feet. -In every five pounds of water there is one of salt of which thirteen -ounces is common salt, a density exceeded only by the Dead Sea. - -Twenty-seven and a half miles of the cut-off are over the water, with -roadway sixteen feet wide at the bottom and seventeen feet above the -lake's surface. The work began in June, 1902, and on November 13, 1903, -the track was completed across the lake. During that time in supplying -piles for trestles and subsequent fills a forest of two square -miles--thirty-eight thousand two hundred and fifty-six trees--was -transplanted into the waters of Great Salt Lake. Each day hundreds of -carloads of gravel were poured in between the piles to make a solid -pathway--sometimes more than four hundred cars in one day. The roadway -is on the surface of a foot of rock ballast and beneath that a coat of -asphalt upon a plank floor three inches thick, resting upon a -practically indestructible substructure. For thirty-six miles there is -no grade at all. The steepest grade in the one hundred and three miles -is five inches to the hundred feet. The saving in the vertical feet in -grades compared with the old route is fifteen hundred and fifteen feet; -in degrees of curvature 3.919. - -[Illustration: THE "OVERLAND LIMITED" CROSSING HAM'S FORK, NEAR GRANGER, -WYOMING] - -There is something fascinating about Great Salt Lake--something in its -weird, silent waters that draws you to it irresistibly. There are no -words to describe the impression made when first you see it lying out -there in the desert, its dense green waters reaching away to the dusky -mountains that mark its farther shore. Other waters, alive, break with -white crested riffles at the touch of the breeze; but these waters seem -dead, and naught but the fury of a storm can break their placidity. No -craft ply upon their surface, and nothing lives within them save a queer -shrimp, a third of an inch long, and small flies before their wing -stage; and but for the gulls, herons, and pelicans that came to the lake -some time in the misty past, there would be no show of life upon its -broad expanse. These same birds fly twenty miles for fresh water and -food. - -Over this strange sea, with no counterpart on the continent, the -travelers of the world now pass. East and west the scenes of the two -most majestic ranges of America spread before their eyes; but the -enchantment of this ride across the lake of mystery will linger in the -memory long after the beauty of mountain peak and grandeur of mountain -wall shall have passed to the realm of things forgotten. - -Westward from Lucin the route follows the old overland trail to the -eastern base of the Sierra, across a region for half a century described -in geographies as the Great American Desert. - -This one-time desert is now proved to be possessed of mineral riches -beyond dreams--gold, silver, copper, iron, soda, borax, sulphur, and -other minerals in abundance. Agriculturally, too, the Carson Valley -within the "Desert," under Uncle Sam's nine million dollar irrigation -enterprise, is proving the worth of Nevada soil and water properly -associated. - -In 1833 Kit Carson and Jim Beckwith, with a few Crow Indians, crossed -Nevada, and in 1846 Carson guided Fremont across it, but the Mormons -were the first settlers. - -[Illustration: ECHO CANYON, UTAH, WHERE THE SHRIEK OF THE LOCOMOTIVE -REVERBERATES AMID A THOUSAND CLIFFS AND PEAKS] - -[Illustration: PULPIT ROCK IN ECHO CANYON. FROM THIS NATURAL ROSTRUM -BRIGHAM YOUNG IS SAID TO HAVE PREACHED HIS FIRST SERMON IN THE "PROMISED -LAND" TO HIS FOLLOWERS, IN 1847] - -In 1860 the famous pony express service of Jones, Russell & Company was -begun between Sacramento and Salt Lake City, with schedule of three and -one-half days. The first express left Sacramento, April 4, 1860, and the -first arrived from Salt Lake City April 13, 1860. The record for time -was held by the relay of pony express riders that carried President -Lincoln's message from St. Joseph, Missouri, to Sacramento, seventeen -hundred and eighty miles, in five days and eighteen hours. The through -stage line across Nevada was established in 1865, when the Overland -stage Company extended the line between Virginia City and Sacramento (in -operation since 1860) to Salt Lake City and connected with Ben -Holladay's line thence to the Missouri River. The through telegraph line -was completed across Nevada in 1865. - -[Illustration: IMAGINATION RUNS RIOT AMID THE BRILLIANT COLORING, THE -CURIOUS CARVINGS OF THE CLIFFS OF THE ECHO AND WEBER CANYONS. A FERTILE -FANCY HAS STYLED THESE "THE WITCHES' ROCKS"] - -Nevada is in great part the bed of an ancient ocean ribbed with lean -mountains. Multitudes of travelers have noted that the rain, driven in -from the Pacific, falls heavily in the valleys of California and up the -western slopes of the Sierra, and on the summit of the mountains creates -a deep blanket of snow, but to thirsty Nevada gives little save the snow -fed rivers that flow down the mountain sides. So while they see skies -marvelously clear and crests of brown far-off hills snow-crowned (under -the sunlight seemingly tipped with flame), and drink the rare air, to -the fevered face a balm and to the lungs as rare old wine to the palate, -yet they pass it by and see nothing in the waste out of which to create -a home. The Sierra watershed and government money are to change all -that. Changed, also, is its mining life to-day. Capital, with new -railroads--yes, and Capital, new railroads,--yes, and automobiles,--have -torn the mask from the face of this treasure land. The dawn of the day -of this land of mystery between the Rockies and the Sierra is here. Salt -Lake City is now probably the greatest smelting center of the world and -the once named 'Great American Desert' is helping give as neighbors to -the green fields, running streams and fruitful orchards of the Mormon -haven, the tall chimneys and mighty fires of many furnaces. Discoveries -of new mining districts follow hard one upon the heels of another. - -[Illustration: THRUST FROM THE RED SOIL RISE TWO DAZZLING WALLS OF -WHITE--FORTY FEET HIGH, TWENTY FEET APART; SHEER FROM THE BRINK OF THE -CLIFF TO THE WATERS OF WEBER RIVER--THE DEVIL'S SLIDE] - -When the glaciers in the infinite past were set in flow, grinding rocks -to make soil from which food could be raised for races of men not then -in existence save in the mind of God, Nevada and Utah were not left -valueless. Rather, when the world was freighted for its long voyage, -some of the richest stores were given this intermountain land to keep, -and jealously has she guarded them with barren mountains for sentinels -and lusterless sage for a cloak. - - "A wide domain of mysteries - And signs that men misunderstood - A land of space and dreams; a land - Of seas, salt lakes and dried up seas. - A land of caves and caravans, - And lonely walls and pools; - A land that has its purposes and plans." - -[Illustration: CROSSING WEBER BRIDGE THE TRAIN PLUNGES INTO A TUNNEL -HEWN THROUGH THE ROCK, LEAVING THE SERPENTINE RIVER FOR AWHILE] - -[Illustration: ALL DAY LONG HEAVY SHADOWS HANG OVER DEVIL'S GATE AND THE -FOAMING WATERS CHAFE AGAINST ITS ROCKY PORTALS] - -So wrote Joaquin Miller thirty years ago; more and more the "purposes -and plans" of the great basin become apparent. In forty-seven years -Nevada alone has yielded in treasure $1,700,000,000. - -But the store of riches is not alone in mines. Silt-laden rivers born in -snow-clad mountain heights for untold centuries have carried their -riches into the great basin. The principal streams of Nevada have no -outlet but disappear in sinks. The Truckee, rising at Lake Tahoe almost -at the summit of the Sierra, tumbles down the mountain side to a last -resting place in Pyramid and Mud Lakes. The Carson River, rising in -equally lofty heights, sinks in a lake of the same name, and the -Humboldt, companion to the railway through central Nevada, flows from -the Great Wells at the base of the Ruby Range and westerly finds its way -120 miles to a vanishing point in Humboldt Lake. - -To give life to the desert by joining again these streams with the -silt-surface earth of the Nevada valleys through irrigation, is the task -now in hand. Ere finished, the commonwealth should be as great in -agriculture and horticulture as in mining. - -In Nevada's 110,000 square miles are many thousands of fertile acres -requiring but the touch of water to make them productive. Here are some -of the great grazing lands of America. A total of not far from 10,000 -carloads of cattle, horses and sheep is exported from Nevada every year. - -[Illustration: IN OGDEN CANYON IS THE HERMITAGE, BUILT AMID ROMANTIC -SURROUNDINGS AND ATTRACTING MANY LOVERS OF TROUT AND SCENERY] - -The Great Salt Lake Cut-off of the Overland Route westward from Ogden is -now of course the main line; the old line runs to the north of Great -Salt Lake, crossing the mountains at Promontory at an elevation of 4907 -feet and rejoining the Great Salt Lake Cut-off at Umbria Junction. -Through trains no longer are operated via Promontory and in the march of -progress that station which one day held the attention of the entire -country as the junction point of two great railways binding together the -East and the West is now only a name on a side line. Yet the day of its -birth was one of glory. New York City celebrated it with the chimes -ringing out Old Hundred and a salute of one hundred guns; Philadelphia -rang all its bells in celebration and Chicago rejoiced with a mass -meeting where Vice President Colfax spoke, and sent through the -decorated streets a parade four miles in length. Omaha turned loose with -all of its firearms and paraded with every able-bodied man in town in -line, and closed the day with fireworks and illuminations. As usual, San -Francisco was fore-handed with its rejoicing, starting its celebration -two days in advance of the driving of the golden spike, and continuing -it two days thereafter to preserve a proper equilibrium. Bret Harte -wrote a poem for the event. - -The reasons for abandoning the old historic route in favor of the new -mid-sea pathway across Great Salt Lake are more eloquently expressed in -the diagram on page 47 than can be done by words. - -Westward from Ogden, on the new route passing the Lake stations and then -Lucin and Montello, the first place of importance is Cobre, junction -point with the new Nevada Northern Railway with its line southward -through Cherry to Ely, a distance of 153 miles. At Ely is a mountain of -copper, one of the great mines of the world. Vast development work is -under way here. The Cherry Creek section has gold and silver; as far -back as 1876 twenty carloads of ore were teamed 150 miles to the railway -and shipped to a smelter, returning an average of $800 to the ton. -Absence of transportation has prevented development until now. - -[Illustration: THE ENTRANCE TO THE BEAUTIFUL OGDEN CANYON IS BUT A SHORT -CAR RIDE FROM THE CITY. ITS SPARKLING WATERS FORM THE BASE OF THE CIVIC -SUPPLY] - -[Illustration: THE OLD MORMON TRAIL, PATHWAY OF THE PIONEERS, CAN STILL -BE TRACED NEAR SALT LAKE CITY] - -Wells, end of the first section going west, is the source of the -Humboldt River. There are some thirty springs, very deep,--some perhaps -a thousand feet--and never failing. They made of Humboldt Wells a great -camping and watering place in the days of the old Overland Trail, three -roads, the Grass Creek, the Thousand Springs Valley and the Cedar Pass, -converging here. Wells is headquarters for a great cattle country, with -ranges extending into Idaho on the North and Utah on the east, and is -the supply town for many rich mining districts. - -The little town of Deeth is a trading center with all the promise of -several hundred square miles of tributary territory very little -developed and very rich in mineral resources. - -[Illustration: IT IS A FAR CRY FROM THESE DAYS OF THE OVERLAND LIMITED -TO THE PRAIRIE SCHOONER OF PIONEER DAYS WHEN TIME AND DISTANCE SEEMED -ALMOST UNLIMITED] - -Elko is picturesquely lively and on the verge of a business renaissance. -It has had many ups and downs in a varied life. A million dollars in -freight charges were paid here the first year after the railroad was -finished, and thirty years ago it had waterworks, a bank, hotels, -courthouse, churches, etc., when Nevada was almost terra incognita. -Today it has more people (probably 2500 all told) than ever before. The -shales near by possess gases rich beyond measure, which may be developed -to furnish light, heat and power for the rich two hundred mile section -of which Elko is the commercial center. It is a town of attractive -homes, good schools and churches. The Tuscarora, Columbia and Mountain -City mining districts use Elko as a gateway to the world. There are good -mineral springs here, including a "chicken soup" spring, alleged to -supply food and medicine to any traveling Ponce de Leons. - -[Illustration: THE STATUE OF BRIGHAM YOUNG, THE SUCCESSFUL LEADER TO THE -PROMISED LAND] - -At Carlin are railroad shops, and the employees with the assistance of -the Company maintain a handsome library. The old emigrant road divided -just before reaching Carlin and reunited at Gravelly Ford. Once upon a -time Shoshone Indians were plentiful hereabouts. - -At Palisade, the Eureka and Palisade Railroad, eighty miles long, -delivers its train loads of ore from the iron, silver and lead mines to -the south for shipment to the smelters along the Overland Route. Rich -oases, such as Pine Valley and Diamond Valley, are along the branch. - -[Illustration: AN EARLY PHOTOGRAPH OF AN OVERLAND CARAVAN CLOSE TO SALT -LAKE CITY] - -Battle Mountain is the junction of the Overland Route and Nevada Central -Railway, a line ninety-three miles long, extending southward to Austin, -once a famous mining camp and yet the center of a mining district of -much prominence. Battle Mountain lies three miles to the south. In the -early sixties it was the scene of a fierce fight between immigrants and -Indians. The Indians, while admitting they were worsted, claim to this -day "heap white men killed." The town is in the center of a productive -agricultural section, and the Galena, Pittsburg, Copper Canyon and other -productive mining districts, such as are springing up all over Nevada, -help make it prosperous. - -At the right of the station in Golconda are several mineral springs of -much value, ranging in temperature from cold to hot enough to boil an -egg in a minute. A good hotel is connected with the springs, which in -any populous country would be visited by thousands of ill people. The -great gold and copper deposits of Golconda are now being developed and -extensive furnaces built. - -[Illustration: THE MORMON TEMPLE AT SALT LAKE CITY, BUILT OF STONE FROM -THE NEIGHBORING MOUNTAINS, STANDS BY THE SPACIOUS TABERNACLE, FAMOUS FOR -ITS ACOUSTICS AND THE MUSIC OF ITS CHOIR] - -Winnemucca, "Napoleon of the Piutes," was the best known chief of that -tribe of Indians, and Winnemucca town was named in his honor. It is a -lively place and has perhaps as large a trading area as any city in the -West. For thirty years a stage ran between here and Boise City, Idaho, -two hundred and fifty miles. Until the building of the Oregon Short Line -Winnemucca was gateway to all of Southern Idaho. Today its trade area -covers Northern Nevada and Eastern Oregon. The Paradise mines, 25 miles -northeast; the Kennedy mines, 50 miles south; and the great sulphur -mines, 30 miles northwest, use it as a trading depot. The business done -in the enterprising town of 2,000 people is not to be measured by its -population. - -[Illustration: EAGLE GATE IS ONE OF THE INTERESTING MONUMENTS OF EARLIER -ZION] - -Humboldt and Humboldt House for thirty-five years have been famous among -Overland travelers as a place of delight with shady groves, green lawns -and flowing fountains. Apples, peaches, plums, and cherries grow in the -oasis. At a point near Humboldt the old Oregon trail diverged from the -Overland Route toward Northern California and Southern Oregon. All along -through this section of Nevada, the Overland Route takes the way -prepared by the Humboldt River. - -[Illustration: SALT LAKE CITY AND COUNTY BUILDING, SHOWS WELL THE MODERN -PROGRESS OF THE CITY] - -No longer, however, does it wind with the stream, but burrows through -mountains and spans the river as often as need be to save curves, -distance and grades. In the last few years $10,531,425 have been spent -in recreating this section of the main trans-continental highway. - -[Illustration: THE LION HOUSE, BUILT BY BRIGHAM YOUNG TO SHELTER HIS -FAMILY] - -Lovelock, with its irrigation canals, great alfalfa fields and herds of -cattle, is made by the union of the waters of the Humboldt and the -fertile soil of its meadows. In a few years Lovelock will be multiplied -a hundred fold in Nevada. An hour's ride beyond is a favored section for -the mirage, a summer-time illusion. It is said in the days of the trail -many an emigrant thought he saw in the distance a second Lovelock, more -lovely, only to be undeceived at even. - -[Illustration: THE TITHING HOUSE IS ONE OF THE EARLIEST STRUCTURES] - -At Hazen, the overland trains leave the passengers who are to go fortune -hunting in Southern Nevada among the mines. Rawhide, Fairview, Wonder, -Tonopah, Goldfield, Bullfrog, Manhattan, Rhyolite, Beatty and a score -more of millionaire making camps already well known to prospectors, -capitalists, and stock brokers throughout the country, are reached by -the Nevada-California branch railway from Hazen, which connects at Mina -with the Tonopah and Goldfield Railroad. In these regions the scenes of -the Comstock Lode days of half a century ago are being repeated. Towns -are created overnight--millionaires are made between meals. Stock -exchanges ride high upon the enormous output of the mining certificates. -Goldfield, but recently a desert, is a city of ten thousand people with -good hotels, banks, daily papers, water, electric and gas plants, -railroad, telegraph and telephone service, and indeed all the utilities -of a modern city. Tonopah is of like history with somewhat smaller -population. Here are all the cosmopolitan and adventurous spirits that -are lured by gold, making these camps on the human side picturesque -beyond measure. Marvelous are the stories, the true ones perhaps most so -of all. One man went to Tonopah on $150 he had borrowed; in three years -he was worth $2,000,000. Another owned a bed, a tent, and a ten days' -food supply; Goldfield--and today he owns a million dollars. A few men -leased a mine; in five months they added to their property two million -dollars. Little wonder it is a land of optimism; each treasure seeker -has such examples before him to inspire him with hope; and the Nevada -camps are the most hopeful and probably the most wonderful mining camps -in the world. - -[Illustration: TO SALTAIR, ON THE BORDERS OF GREAT SALT LAKE, CLOSE TO -THE CITY, GO THOUSANDS DAILY TO BATHE IN ITS STRANGE WATERS, TOO SALT -FOR LIFE, TOO HEAVY FOR THE LIGHTER WINDS TO CURL, TOO BUOYANT TO SWIM -IN SWIFTLY] - -[Illustration: Sign, "Last Spike"] - -Hazen is also the junction point for another railroad, a fourteen-mile -branch line to Fallon, the commercial center of the Truckee-Carson -reclamation project. - -[Illustration: PROMONTORY POINT AT THE EASTERN END OF GREAT SALT LAKE. -HERE WAS THE JUNCTION OF THE TWO LINES WHERE THE LAST SPIKE WAS DRIVEN, -BINDING THE NORTH AMERICAN CONTINENT WITH A TRAIL OF STEEL] - -[Illustration: ACROSS THE SILENT DESOLATE SEA, THE TRAIN RUNS ON THE -GREAT SALT LAKE CUT-OFF, THE BUILDING OF WHICH IS ONE OF THE TRIUMPHS OF -THE TWENTIETH CENTURY] - -[Illustration: THE PELICAN REARS ITS YOUNG ON THE LONELY ISLANDS OF THE -INLAND SEA] - -The United States Government has diverted the waters of the Truckee and -Carson Rivers by a series of canals, reservoirs and laterals upon -250,000 acres of the bed of an ancient lake with deep rich soil composed -of materials washed down from the surrounding mountains. Already water -is ready to irrigate about 100,000 acres, of which a large part is -Government land and the remainder either railroad or privately owned -land which can be purchased at reasonable figures. About 50,000 acres -have been settled upon and nearly one thousand farms more are ready for -settlement. - -[Illustration: LOOKING WESTWARD ALONG THE PATHWAY MADE FROM SHORE TO -SHORE WHERE TIME AND NATURE WERE DEFEATED] - -The Government has invested several million dollars in the project and -guarantees the water supply. The public land may be taken up under the -Homestead Act and it is the purpose of the Reclamation Service that -settlers shall have farm units varying in size from forty to one hundred -and sixty acres, according to the location, smoothness of the surface -and quality of land. The average size of the farms is 80 acres. The -intensive cultivation possible under an irrigation system makes it most -profitable to till a farm of moderate size. The railroad lands are now -on sale at an average price of about $5 per acre and other privately -owned lands may be secured at from $5 to $20 per acre. The cost of the -water system is assessed against the land on the basis of ten equal -annual payments and is now determined to be $30 per acre or $3 per year -without interest. There is additional charge for maintenance of the -canal system, which in 1908 amounted to 40c per acre. The only other -charges to settlers are $6.50 for a forty-acre farm and $8 for an -eighty-acre farm, the Government fees for filing; save that if the farm -is within the railroad grant limit the fee becomes $8 for a forty-acre -farm and $11 for an eighty-acre farm. The filing charge before United -States Commissioner at Fallon is $1. - -[Illustration: SEAGULLS IN COUNTLESS NUMBERS GIVE LIFE TO THIS AMERICAN -DEAD SEA] - -[Illustration: THE PLAINS AND MOUNTAINS OF NEVADA HAVE A CHARM ABOVE THE -RICHES THEY YIELD TO THE INSISTENT SEEKER] - -With water absolutely assured by the Government and the fertility of the -land unquestioned, no one possessed of energy and good health with -sufficient money to purchase the actual needs of a residence and farm -cultivation, say from $1000 to $2000, need fear failure. The Carson -Valley is to be a great garden spot, rich in small fruits such as -apples, pears, peaches; rich in surface crops such as potatoes, onions, -sugar beets; rich in dairy products, in great fields of alfalfa and -herds of live stock. An experimental farm is maintained by the -Government and already it has been proved that almost any temperate zone -crop can be grown successfully. Probably the highest cash markets in -America, the great mines of Nevada, Utah and California, are near at -hand and the surplus can be exported to the eastern and western borders -of the continent and perhaps yet farther. - -[Illustration: A STORY NOT NEEDING WORDS--WHY THE OLD ROUTE WAS -ABANDONED] - -The Nevada & California Railway extends southward into the Owens River -Valley from Mina, well known for its agricultural oases along the river, -for its mines and for its superb scenery, its western wall of mountains -being the highest and most impressive in the United States proper. - -[Illustration: THE HUMBOLDT RIVER, CROSSED AT RYNDON, PROVES NEVADA NOT -EVERYWHERE THE DESERT IT IS TOO OFTEN ASSUMED TO BE] - -[Illustration: IN PALISADE CANYON, NEVADA, THE OVERLAND LIMITED FOLLOWS -THE COURSE OF THE RIVER, WHICH REFLECTS EVER CHANGING PICTURES OF -CASTELLATED CLIFFS AND VERDANT BANKS] - -[Illustration: AT HUMBOLDT STATION, ONE OF NEVADA'S RAPIDLY SPREADING -OASES] - -[Illustration: IRRIGATION AT LOVELOCK AND MANY OTHER PLACES IN NEVADA IS -RAPIDLY SHOWING THAT NOT ALL ITS WEALTH LIES IN MINES] - -Reno, the most important and substantial Nevada cities, is 18,000 people -and growing rapidly. To it the Virginia and Truckee Railroad brings -business from the south, while the Nevada-California-Oregon Railway -connects it with Northern California, Plumas and Modoc Counties (now -being further developed by new lines under construction) and Southern -Oregon. There is much good farming territory tributary; the Truckee -meadows and Carson Valley are close by. The Truckee-Carson project will -add to its trade greatly. The two factors giving greatest force to -Reno's forward movement are, however, the establishment of great railway -terminals and shops by the Overland Route at Sparks, adjoining Reno, and -the position of the city as the chief commercial center of the richest, -and now the most actively exploited mining area in America. It has all -the utilities of a city even to suburban electric railway service, is -kept informed by four newspapers and carries $6,000,000 in deposit in -six banks. The Nevada State University is one of the foremost schools of -the West, and in its mining and agricultural department work ranks -especially high. The Mackay Mining Building, dedicated June 6, 1908, is -the pride of the university. - -Carson City, Nevada's capital, is a beautiful place of 5,000 people on -the Virginia & Truckee Railway, thirty-one miles from Reno. It is the -oldest town in the State, has an abundance of good water and good shade, -creditable State buildings, and a United States branch mint. It trades -freely with Southwestern Nevada and the Inyo Valley of California. - -[Illustration: THE HEAD GATES NEAR HAZEN, NEVADA, OF THE CARSON-TRUCKEE -IRRIGATION PROJECT WHEREBY THE GOVERNMENT PLANS TO GIVE IRRIGATED LANDS -TO SETTLERS AT THE COST OF THE WATER] - -Virginia City, fifty-two miles from Reno on the Virginia & Truckee Ry., -and the adjoining town of Gold Hill, are famous places, once the center -of tremendous mining activity. The treasure houses underneath held -wonderful stores of wealth. Virginia City at one time had 30,000 people, -one-third of the population being always underground. The place was -built on the steep slope of Mount Davidson, 6200 feet above sea-level. -Until the discovery of the Comstock Lode (an ore-channel four miles long -and three-quarters of a mile wide, along the eastern base of Mount -Davidson, eighteen miles southeast of Reno), men worth $200,000 were -called rich, and the world's millionaires could be counted on one's -fingers. In June, 1859, miners (among whom were Peter O'Riley, Patrick -McLaughlin, James Finney, John Bishop, W. P. T. Comstock, and a man -named Penrod) working in the ravine along the base of Mount Davidson, -were much annoyed by a strange blue-black substance that clogged their -rockers. Finally a sample was taken to Nevada City, Cal., for assay. It -yielded over $6,000 per ton in gold and silver. Since the day of the -rush that followed that discovery, work on the Comstock Lode has never -ceased. From that ore-channel have been taken more than $700,000,000; -the Consolidated California Virginia took out in six years $119,000,000 -and paid $67,000,000 in dividends. Of the history of that wonderful -time, little can be said here, and such men as William Sharon, John P. -Jones, John W. Mackay, James G. Fair, I. W. Requa, Marcus Daly, Adolph -Sutro, made famous by their connections with the Comstock Lode, must be -passed by with merely mention of names. Mark Twain's "Roughing It" and -contemporary works, provide "mighty interesting" reading about that -treasure era. - -[Illustration: A WESTERN MINNEHAHA - Copyright by F. A. Rinehart, Omaha.] - -[Illustration: AT RENO MODERN BUILDINGS AND THE FINE BRIDGE THAT SPANS -THE TRUCKEE MARK THE UPBUILDING OF NEVADA'S PRINCIPAL CITY] - -Reno is at the foot of the Sierra Nevada, the great wall rising to the -westward and separating California from the rest of the country. This -highest of mountain chains in our country extends several hundred miles -north and south. Perhaps no other range of mountains in the world has -attractions so great or of such variety. The Sierra Nevada, the Snowy -Range, or, as John Muir has more aptly termed it, the Range of Light, -has many main ridges extending from 6,000 to 12,000 feet above sea -level, with guardian peaks over 14,000 feet high. Highest of all and -greatest mountain peak in the United States outside of Alaska is Mt. -Whitney, 14,529 feet high. These mountains which the Overland Route -crosses on its way to the Pacific have the greatest coniferous forests -on earth. Among its peaks nestle the largest and most numerous of -mountain lakes. Between its walls are unsurpassed mountain chasms. Its -streams, unexcelled in beauty, possess the greatest potential power of -all the waters of American mountains. - -The Sierra Nevada is crossed by the Overland Route along a scenic -pathway associated with much of interest in history and tradition. Here -were the greatest obstacles in the way of the pioneer railroad builders. -Nature seemed here to have rallied her forces for a final stand. Here -Theodore Judah, the pioneer pathfinder of the railway, found his most -difficult work. The climb up the mountain side is up the canyon of the -beautiful Truckee River, a famous trout stream, a journey lined with -beautiful forests of pine and mountain walls. - -[Illustration: A STREET IN CARSON CITY, NEVADA, WHERE FAMOUS FOOTPRINTS -AND FOSSIL REMAINS OF PREHISTORIC MONSTERS HAVE BEEN FOUND] - -At Boca, Prosser Creek and Iceland, the "chief crop" is ice; at -Floriston, paper; at Truckee, lumber and box stock; and at Lake Tahoe, a -very good time. Boca is junction with the Boca & Loyalton road, a forty -mile line northward through Sierra and Plumas Valleys--noted for its -forests, beautiful little valleys, and lakes. Truckee is a lumbering and -railroad town of two thousand people, Thence, a distance of 14 miles -farther up the river, runs the Lake Tahoe Railway to the shore of Lake -Tahoe. - -[Illustration: VIRGINIA CITY, NEVADA, AS IN THE DAYS OF THE COMSTOCK -LODE. STILL FURNISHES RICH YIELDS OF PRECIOUS MINERALS] - -Lake Tahoe, largest of the world's mountain lakes, is 23 miles long by -13 miles broad, 6,220 feet above sea-level, and over 2,000 feet deep. It -is a body of the purest, clearest, and most wonderfully tinted water -imaginable, held in a mountain rimmed cup with its edge crested with -ever present snow, sparkling as a jewel. Between snow line and the lake -are beautiful pine forests, in which, half hidden, are such famous -resorts as Tahoe Tavern, McKinney's, Tallac, Glenbrook, Brockway, and -Tahoe City. The summer climate with great abundance of sunshiny days, -the invigorating pine-scented atmosphere, and the cool nights and -delightful days, alone make of Tahoe and its neighboring Sierra -lakes--Fallen Leaf, Cascade, and others--an unsurpassed summer place. -But when are added the forests, the scenery of the Snowy Range, the -fishing and hunting, and the out of door sports, the first place among -mountain lake resorts must be given to this region. A swift and well -fitted steamer circles the lake every summer day from Tahoe Tavern. - -The trout of Tahoe, the Truckee river, and neighboring lakes and -streams, make good the claim that no place excels this region for the -fisherman. Usually they run from three to six pounds in weight, but -specimens weighing over thirty pounds have been taken. - -Such out of door joys as boating, horseback riding, mountain climbing, -and hunting, can be enjoyed under the most favorable conditions. -Excursions up Freel's Peak, and Mt. Tallac, and to Glen Alpine, are very -much worth while. Of the hotel accommodations, it is, perhaps, enough to -say, that one may be comfortable in a tent or a cabin, or enjoy hotel -service unexcelled at any summer resort in America. - -[Illustration: THE OVERLAND LIMITED AT FLORISTON CLOSE TO THE CALIFORNIA -LINE, THE PORTAL TO A RIDE THROUGH SCENES OF GREAT BEAUTY] - -West of Truckee on the Overland Route, we pass Webber, Donner, and -Independence Lakes. The unfortunate Donner party camped by the lake of -that name, snowed in, in the winter of 1846-47, losing 43 of its 83 -members before relief came in February. Of these mountain glacial lakes, -cups of clear water, there are some six thousand in the region between -Truckee and the Tule river to the south. - -The summit of the Sierra is reached twelve miles west of Truckee, 7018 -feet above the sea-level. Along this part of the journey the track is -protected by snow-sheds, but the sides of the sheds are latticed and -there are many intervening stretches of clear track, so the scenery is -not lost. - -The ride down the western wall of the Sierras is one of entrancing -interest. At the summit during the winter of 1907 were many feet of -snow. Ravines were filled with it, snow-sheds covered with it, and trees -made snow mounds by it; and yet scarce three hours' ride away, roses -brightened porches and roofs, the scent of orange blossoms filled the -air, early peaches and almonds bloomed in the orchards, the fields were -vividly green with foot high grain, and the hills aflame with wild -poppies. It is this transition from snowy winter to blooming spring that -is perhaps the most delightful experience of the westbound traveler -during the colder months over the Overland Route as the train glides -swiftly from the summit to the sea. - -[Illustration: THE TRUCKEE RIVER IS ONE OF THE MOST GENEROUS AND MOST -EASILY FISHED OF TROUT STREAMS] - -[Illustration: LAKE TAHOE, TWENTY-THREE MILES LONG, THIRTEEN WIDE, -SURROUNDED BY SNOW CLAD MOUNTAINS, SET AS THE MAIN JEWEL OF A PENDANT OF -GLEAMING LAKES, HAS NO PEER IN ALL AMERICA] - -[Illustration: CAVE ROCK, LAKE TAHOE, WHERE THE BIG TROUT LOVE TO LIE IN -THE SHADY DEPTHS] - -At Cape Horn the road follows a shelf hewn around the face of the -mountain; sheerly below, 1200 feet, is the American river in its winding -canyon, while above the mountain wall rises to the clouds. - -From Cape Horn the Sacramento Valley, fair and fruitful, is spread below -as a great relief map of orchards, villages and cities, and winding -rivers and green slopes. Past Emigrant Gap, Cowles, Dutch Flat and Gold -Run--historic names--these mark the center of the greatest excitement -America ever knew over placer mines. Colfax has interest partly in -golden fruit and partly in gold. Twenty miles away, and reached by the -Nevada county Narrow Gauge, are the thriving cities of Grass Valley and -Nevada City, once great mining camps, and yet owning much mineral -importance. They are now among California's most important cities with -prospects of advancement still bright before them. - -[Illustration: TAHOE TAVERN--MOST MODERN OF HOSTELRIES IN EQUIPMENT, IS -DESIGNED IN HARMONY WITH ITS SURROUNDINGS OF PINEY WOODS AND WILD FLOWER -GARDENS] - -All down this slope of the Sierra, past beautiful Auburn, a modern town, -and yet with a touch of ancient days, half hidden in foliage and -flowers, with orange and peach blossoms, are natural sanitariums where -people suffering from asthma and other throat and lung troubles are -surprising their home doctors continually by getting well. From Auburn, -Newcastle (center of the great Placer County fruit belt) Penryn and -neighboring stations, are shipped each year thousands of cars of green -fruit, principally peaches, to the Eastern markets. No other section of -the west ships so many cars of fresh peaches to market and its fame as -an orange growing section is growing rapidly. - -[Illustration: THE PAVILION AT TALLAC, ANOTHER POPULAR LAKE RESORT] - -The Overland Route joins the Road of a Thousand Wonders (between -Portland, Oregon, and Los Angeles) at Roseville, a great railway center -to be, with fifty-seven miles of yards, round-houses of sixty-four -stalls, machine and car shops, club house, icing plant and hospital. -From Roseville to Sacramento the nineteen mile journey is made past -horse ranches (a notable one at Ben Ali), and great dairy farms. - -Sacramento, the capital city of California, is a manufacturing and -wholesale center, with an ever increasing and diversified trade -extending up to central Oregon on the North, and to central Nevada on -the East. Its post office receipts, school attendance, and directory -returns, indicate the city has a population of practically 50,000. The -railway shops of the Southern Pacific cover twenty acres, and employ -3,000 people. The rich tributary country about Sacramento amounts to -600,000 acres in area. Its bank capital and resources are greater than -in many cities of over a hundred thousand people. - -[Illustration: THE STEAMER "TAHOE" DAILY CIRCLES THE SAPPHIRE WATERS OF -THE LAKE] - -Here was born the Central Pacific Railroad. Theodore D. Judah had been -employed by a California company to build a road from Sacramento to -Folsom (forty miles), but his eyes were ever turning Sierraward. At last -he gained the attention of Stanford, Huntington, Hopkins, and the -Crockers, and succeeded in interesting them in the stupendous project of -building a railroad, which, in a hundred miles was to rise from about -sea-level to almost half a mile; then to drop 3300 feet and then -crossing ten ranges of mountains, was to find a way to meet the western -end of a road from the Missouri, by the waters of Great Salt Lake. - -[Illustration: LAKE TAHOE'S SHORES ARE RICH IN SHELTERED COVES WHERE THE -TRANSPARENT WATERS REFLECT THE PINES] - -[Illustration: MOUNT TALLAC, ONE OF THE SNOW CLAD PEAKS THAT GUARD LAKE -TAHOE: 9,785 FEET HIGH, IT IS EASILY ACCESSIBLE AND THE SCENES FROM ITS -SUMMIT ARE OF GREAT BEAUTY] - -[Illustration: FROM THE SMALLER ATTENDANT LAKES DROP MANY BEAUTIFUL -FALLS, WELL WORTH VISITING] - -[Illustration: DONNER LAKE. SCENE OF A WINTER TRAGEDY IN EARLY -CALIFORNIA DAYS] - -It was done. The story of the doing cannot be told here. It is one of -volumes, and simply the names of the men whose daring and genius solved -its problems may be mentioned. It was a combination predestined, -irresistible, a union of men for whom opportunity needed to knock but -lightly, who saw the grandeur of the task before them and rose to its -inspiration. Each had his allotted place to which he seemed peculiarly -fitted and each, through the sheer love of the work and indomitable -purpose made perfect his part in this modern conquest of America. Judah, -the great engineer, saw the work through, and then, in a few months, -died--but fame is his. Senator A. A. Sargent framed the laws that made -the work possible. Senator Leland Stanford was the great political -executive who handled the road's relations with the Government--a many -sided, brilliant man, and a mighty pioneer, in farming, fruit growing, -and stock raising, as well as railroad building. Charles Crocker was the -master mind in the field, and organizer of men and affairs, and withal, -much beloved by all who knew him. Judge Crocker, the road's first -attorney, was of inestimable value to it, but so noiseless, modest and -retiring, that his relations with the line are almost forgotten. Mark -Hopkins was the trained man of business, who directed the office -affairs, carrying in his brain every detail of the enterprise, and -working upon it night and day. Collis P. Huntington, famous in every -line of work he undertook, outlived his associates, and became one of -the world's greatest builders and financiers. To Mr. Huntington and to -Edward H. Harriman (whose financial genius and constructive ability have -contributed more in high class, modern railways to the advancement of -the West than any other man), the empire beyond the Missouri and the -Mississippi owes more than to any other two. - -[Illustration: SHY DEER WATCH THE PASSING TRAINS FROM THE LEAFY COVERTS -OF THE CANYONS] - -Sacramento has many places of interest; the capitol building and its -fine grounds, Sutter's Fort, and the Crocker Art Gallery being among -them. The city has beautiful tree lined avenues, fine houses with flower -gardens, lawns, and citrus and deciduous fruit, good urban and suburban -electric line service, railways radiating in four directions, and three -more--two steam and one electric--under construction; altogether a -modern, charming city with such unusual out of doors attractions as only -California can give. - -[Illustration: NEAR NEWCASTLE THE WILDER SCENERY GIVES PLACE TO PEACEFUL -ORCHARDS] - -Among public works is the handsome Government building, in which are the -post office, land office, weather bureau, and other Government offices. -In yards the magnolia blooms and the broad leaves of the plantain and -banana arrest the eye. Palms are plentiful and with variety; orange and -lemon trees are numerous. Camellias bloom in profusion. - -The journey from Sacramento to San Francisco may be made over the ninety -mile direct route via Benicia or the longer way through Stockton. The -Benicia Route is through deciduous fruit sections, of which Davis and -Elmira are business centers and junctions respectively for lines through -the west side of the Sacramento Valley and up the beautiful Capay -Valley. The Overland Route from Elmira follows along the marshes of -upper Suisun Bay, where tens of thousands of wild ducks and wild geese -find a home. - -At Suisun, a branch line leads to the Napa and Sonoma Valleys, famous -these forty years past for fruits and wine and rural loveliness. Suisun -has many fruit establishments. Beyond, fifteen miles, is Benicia, with -its Government post and arsenal. - -[Illustration: UP AT SUMMIT THE DOMAIN OF KING SNOW, BEAUTIFUL TO LOOK -AT THOUGH FRIGID IN WELCOME, IS SWIFTLY LEFT BEHIND] - -Thence the great double ferryboat, the Solano, swallows the train, and -moves across the picturesque Carquinez straits, a mile wide, to Port -Costa. This is the largest ferryboat in the world, and perhaps the only -double one. Its two paddle wheels may be made to revolve in opposite -directions, turning the boat around almost in its own length. As one -crosses, to the left lies Suisun Bay, to the right, San Pablo Bay. The -ferry unloads its trains at Port Costa, place of mammoth grain -warehouses with capacity for more than 350,000 tons. Thirty deep-sea -ships may unload here at one time. - -[Illustration: THE TRAIN DROPS QUICKLY FROM THE REGION OF PINES AND -FROST INTO A FAIRYLAND OF PALMS AND FLOWERS] - -A few miles beyond Port Costa is Vallejo Junction; thence the ferry boat -El Capitan carries passengers the intervening four miles to Vallejo, and -to Mare Island Navy Yard. From the train you may catch a glimpse of the -warships at anchor, of the wooded island where Uncle Sam has three -thousand employees, and of Vallejo, upon its hills facing it, a lively -city of 12,000 people. - -The great tower opposite Vallejo Junction carries across the straits the -transmission wires of the electric companies that gather the weight of -falling water in the Sierra Nevada and deliver it to San Francisco and -the bay counties to move street cars, light cities, and keep the wheels -of industry whirring. - -Along this water front from between Vallejo Junction and Oakland are -great manufactories. Here are the Selby Smelting works where something -better than alchemy brings gold from rough rock; here (at a safe -distance) are powder works and soap factories, steel and wire works, -sugar refining works, syrup, oil and borax refineries, canneries and -tanneries and various wood working establishments. - -Past Richmond, a manufacturing city, and Berkeley, a beautiful residence -city of 40,000 people, the Overland Route leads to Oakland. - -Berkeley is built upon the slopes of hills to a height of six hundred -feet. It is the seat of the University of California, and the location -of the State Asylum for the Blind, the Deaf, and the Dumb. The -University grounds are beautiful and under the Bernard plans, involving -an ultimate expenditure of $50,000,000, the buildings will have no -second place in American architecture. - -[Illustration: BEAUTIFUL BLUE CANYON, SEEN FROM THE TRAIN. THE GORGE -LIES TREMULOUS BEHIND A VEIL OF SAPPHIRE DISTANCE, A PLACE OF LEGENDS.] - -[Illustration: AT CAPE HORN THE ROAD RUNS CLOSE TO THE CLIFF] - -The city is growing very rapidly and in the high average of its home -places is not excelled anywhere. The new tourist resort, the Claremont -Hotel, may be seen from the train. - -Oakland, third city of the State, has a population of 175,000. The -cluster of cities of which it is the center--Berkeley, Alameda, -Fruitvale, Elmhurst, and others--has a population of 240,000. Oakland's -bay water front extends fifteen miles and its estuary is being made into -a great ship harbor, along which many industries are growing. The city -is becoming a place of skyscrapers. It is a city, too, of homes; on the -Piedmont hills and around Lake Merritt are beautiful drives with all the -life of the country in the heart of the town. - -[Illustration: AMERICAN RIVER GLEAMS LIKE A RIBBON OF SILVER FAR FAR -BELOW THE MOVING TRAIN] - -Leaving Oakland, 16th Street, the Overland Route through the city skirts -the bay shore and at the long "made" ground of Oakland Pier the rail -journey ends. - -[Illustration: THE SACRAMENTO, ONE OF CALIFORNIA'S TWO NAVIGABLE RIVERS. -THE TORPEDO FLOTILLA OF THE GREAT AMERICAN FLEET CAME TO SACRAMENTO UP -THE RIVER, IN 1908] - -Another route from Sacramento to San Francisco is along the foothill -country of the Sierra, southward past Lodi and its great grape and peach -lands to Stockton. Stockton, at the head of the bay navigation, is a -prosperous city of 25,000 people with great natural resources near; gas, -coal, electric power, and a million acres of as fat and fertile lands as -may be found out of doors. Its manufactures are many and important, -including flour and woolen mills, harvesters and other agricultural -implements, mining machinery, street cars and railway cars, pottery and -briquettes. It is in the heart of a great dairy section. - -Westward from Stockton there is a choice of two routes; to the north -along the bay shore through Lathrop and Tracy past Byron Hot Springs, -under the brow of Mount Diablo and thence through Martinez to Port -Costa; or westward and then northward through the vine and fruit valleys -surrounding Pleasanton, Livermore, Haywards, and the series of towns -that ends in Oakland. - -[Illustration: SUTTER'S FORT, SACRAMENTO, STILL STANDS IN GOOD REPAIR, A -MUTE HISTORIAN OF THE DAYS OF INDIAN RAIDS, THE OVERLAND COACH AND THE -PONY EXPRESS] - -Through the broad passageways of commodious ferryboats the last link, -the water link, in the transcontinental chain is forged. Every twenty -minutes the best ferry service in the world moves boats from each -terminal between Oakland Pier and San Francisco. In crossing San -Francisco Bay, to the left is noted Alameda Mole, with the Southern -Pacific suburban trains and ferries. To the right, and almost ahead, is -Yerba Buena Island (Goat Island), occupied by the Government naval -training school, while fronting us are the picturesque hills and long -waterfront, mast forested, of San Francisco. - -Beyond Yerba Buena to the right is the bold rocky islet, Alcatraz (the -Government prison); farther, Angel Island, a military post, and yet -beyond the blue forest clad hills of Marin with Mount Tamalpais rising -above them. - -San Francisco, the new San Francisco, is not to be described in detail -in this book. The story of it today with all the great progress made -within the last two years would nevertheless be ancient and inadequate -history within six months. The rebuilding of the entire business section -of a great city in so short a time and the rehabilitation of its -municipal utilities, is a marvel beyond description. - -[Illustration: THE PATHS THAT LEAD DIRECTLY TO CALIFORNIA'S CAPITOL AT -SACRAMENTO ARE PLEASANT ONES, SHADED BY THE SEMI-TROPIC GROWTHS OF THE -CAMELLIA CITY] - -The San Francisco of today is a greater San Francisco than ever before. -Imports have increased, trade expanded and new industries established -since the fire. The traffic of the railroads is greater than in the days -of the old San Francisco. The Southern Pacific is spending millions in -new terminal facilities and has completed a new water-grade route up the -San Francisco peninsula into the heart of the city at an expense of -millions more. By the construction of a bridge at Dumbarton Point across -the southern arm of San Francisco bay in 1908 the city has to all -intents and purposes, from a traffic standpoint, been placed upon the -mainland. - -[Illustration: THERE IS NO FINER DUCK SHOOTING THAN ON THE SUISUN -MARSHES. CANVASBACK, MALLARD, TEAL, OR SPRIG, ALL UNFAILINGLY AWAIT THE -BAG OF THE STRAIGHT SHOOTER] - -The business section of San Francisco, practically entirely recreated in -two years, is in itself a marvel; no other city in the world possesses -such an area of absolutely new business blocks with their equipments -consequently modern in every respect, from elevator service to methods -of lighting and heating. Nothing is out of date; all is new and the work -has been on so large a scale as to justify the gathering of the very -best ideas in construction at the command of the best architects of the -world. - -Notably is the hotel service of the city superior through this -reconstruction. Scores of fine hotels have been built within the two -years and many more are under way. The opportunity to embody every -comfort and convenience, and the rivalry among the hotels to secure the -best, have resulted in a series of up-to-date homes for wayfarers -probably never equaled, for never elsewhere have circumstances been such -as to permit the complete modernization of a great business city within -two years. - -Among the great hotels of San Francisco the Fairmont on Nob Hill is -architecturally the most commanding feature of the city and of -unsurpassed service. The Hotel St. Francis conducted on the same high -plane of hospitality is noted for the excellence of its service and is -in the heart of the down town business section, facing Union Square. It -is one-half larger than before the new era. The new Palace Hotel will be -opened in the fall of 1909 on the old site and is a magnificent -structure. San Francisco has now in its hotels and apartment houses -accommodations for 25,000 visitors. - -San Francisco is the busiest of cities and among its features most of -interest to visitors is the construction under way. Many of the new -buildings are remarkable for their beauty, a great deal of marble having -been used. - -[Illustration: THE SOLANO, THAT TAKES UP SO EASILY THE SECTIONS OF THE -"OVERLAND," IS THE LARGEST FERRY STEAMER IN THE WORLD] - -This cosmopolitan metropolis at the gateway to the Orient possesses now -as it always has during the past thirty years, that fascinating variety -in its life which has made it a place of great attraction for people -from all over the earth. Hither come ships of all the seven seas with -the flags of all the maritime nations flying over them; here, too, come -the peoples of every land from far Cathay to Alaska, from Siberia to the -Isles of Greece. Every nation favors California with immigration and -every nationality of importance is represented by a colony in San -Francisco of which the customs and manners help make up the cosmopolitan -life of the ever growing city. - -The great out-of-door attractions, such as Mount Tamalpais, lifting its -volcanic crest 2596 feet above the city, the great Golden Gate Park with -its animal and plant life drawn from all quarters of the globe, the Seal -Rocks and Sutro Heights, Museum and Baths, the beautiful military -reservation of the Presidio commanding the Golden Gate, the islands of -the bay and the wooded Mann shores, the Muir woods, the old Mission -Dolores built more than a century ago, and the neighboring valleys -within short excursion distance laden with fruit and flowers; all these -and many other attractions help make San Francisco a lodestone for the -pleasure seeker. - -The main line of The Overland Route ends at San Francisco where the -great liners of the Pacific Mail, Toyo Kisen Kaisha and other steamship -companies take up the work of transporting travelers by sea trails made -pleasant by the sunshine and blue, placid waters of the mid-Pacific, to -the islands of the South Seas and the great countries of the Orient. - -[Illustration: THE OVERLAND LIMITED ENTERING THE YARDS OF THE OAKLAND -STATION] - -[Illustration: OAKLAND IS A CITY OF BEAUTIFUL HOMES, MANY OF THEM -CLUSTERING AROUND THE SHORES OF LAKE MERRITT] - -Nearly four thousand miles of lines northward to Portland, Oregon, and -southward to Los Angeles and beyond, carry Overland Route passengers to -all important cities of California and Oregon. Indeed, the end of the -transcontinental trip is at the open door to wonderland. North and south -are the attractions of mountains, shore and valley; the greatest of -coniferous forests, our highest mountain peaks outside of Alaska, the -deepest and wildest of mountain canyons, the oldest and greatest of -giant trees, the largest and most beautiful of mountain lakes; the long -beaches with wooded uplands and mountains beyond marked here and there -with resorts, flower embowered, delightful winter and summer; the -semi-tropic fruit orchards of a sunshiny country surpassing in extent -and variety those of any other section; altogether a wonderland not to -be matched in all the world. - - "_Lo! here sit we by the sun-down seas_ - _And the White Sierra. The sweet sea-breeze_ - _Is about us here; and a sky so fair_ - _Is bending above, so cloudless, blue,_ - _That you gaze and you gaze and you dream, and you_ - _See God and the portals of heaven there._ - - "O seas in a land! O lakes of mine! - By the love I bear and the songs I bring - Be glad with me! lift your waves and sing - A song in the reeds that surround your isles!-- - A song of joy for this sun that smiles, - For this land I love and this age and sign; - For the peace that is and the perils pass'd; - For the hope that is and the rest at last! - - * * * - - "A rush of rivers and a brush of trees, - A breath blown far from the Mexican seas, - And over the great heart-vein of earth! - .... By the South-Sun-land of the Cherokee, - By the scalp-lock-lodge of the tall Pawnee, - And up La Platte. What a weary dearth - Of the homes of men! What a wild delight - Of space! Of room! What a sense of seas, - Where the seas are not! What a salt like breeze! - What dust and taste of quick alkali! - .... Then hills! green, brown, then black like night, - All fierce and defiant against the sky! - - "At last! at last! O steed new-born, - Born strong of the will of the strong New World, - We shoot to the summit, with the shafts of morn, - On the mount of Thunder, where clouds are curl'd, - Below in a splendor of the sun-clad seas. - A kiss of welcome on the warm west breeze - Blows up with a smell of the fragrant pine, - And a faint, sweet fragrance from the far-off seas - Comes in through the gates of the great South Pass, - And thrills the soul like a flow of wine. - The hare leaps low in the storm-bent grass, - The mountain ram from his cliff looks back, - The brown deer hies to the tamarack. - - * * * - -[Illustration: THE GOLDEN GATE, IN AND OUT OF WHICH PASSES DAILY MANY A -WEALTHY ARGOSY] - - "On, on, o'er the summit; and onward again, - And down like the sea-dove the billow enshrouds, - And down like the swallow that dips to the sea, - We dart and we dash and we quiver and we - Are blowing to heaven white billows of clouds. - - * * * - - "The Humboldt desert and the alkaline land, - And the seas of sage and of arid sand - That stretch away till the strain'd eye carries - The soul where the infinite spaces fill, - Are far in the rear, and the fierce Sierras - Are under our feet, and the hearts beat high - And the blood comes quick; but the lips are still - With awe and wonder, and all the will - Is bow'd with a grandeur that frets the sky. - - "A flash of lakes through the fragrant trees, - A song of birds and a sound of bees - Above in the boughs of the sugar-pine. - The pick-axe stroke in the placer mine, - The boom of blasts in the gold-ribbed hills, - The grizzly's growl in the gorge below - Are dying away, and the sound of rills - From the far-off shimmering crest of snow, - The laurel green and the ivied oak, - A yellow stream and a cabin's smoke, - The brown bent hills and the shepherd's call, - The hills of vine and of fruits, and all - The sweets of Eden are here, and we - Look out and afar to a limitless sea. - -[Illustration: THE FERRY BUILDING, THE MARKET STREET (SAN FRANCISCO) -STATION OF THE SOUTHERN PACIFIC AND THE WESTERN TERMINAL OF THE OVERLAND -ROUTE] - - "We have lived an age in a half-moon-wane! - We have seen a world! We have chased the sun - From sea to sea; but the task is done. - We here descend to the great white main-- - To the King of Seas, with its temples bare - And a tropic breath on the brow and hair." - --_Joaquin Miller._ - - - - - Transcriber's Notes - - ---Retained publication information from the printed exemplar (this eBook - is in the public domain in the country of publication.) - ---Silently corrected several typos. - ---Provided all images resized and oriented for use on a portable eBook - reader. - - - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Overland Route to the Road of a -Thousand Wonders, by Anonymous - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ROAD OF A THOUSAND WONDERS *** - -***** This file should be named 51849.txt or 51849.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/5/1/8/4/51849/ - -Produced by Stephen Hutcheson, Rick Morris and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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