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diff --git a/old/52227-8.txt b/old/52227-8.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 23a4d8f..0000000 --- a/old/52227-8.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7839 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of Piece Goods Manual, by A. E. Blanco - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - - - -Title: Piece Goods Manual - -Author: A. E. Blanco - -Release Date: June 3, 2016 [EBook #52227] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK PIECE GOODS MANUAL *** - - - - -Produced by deaurider, John Campbell and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive) - - - - - - - - - - TRANSCRIBER'S NOTE - - Italic text is denoted by _underscores_. - - Bold text is denoted by =equal signs=. - - Large-size letters used to describe shapes or trade marks are denoted - by @at-signs@. - - Obvious typographical errors and punctuation errors have been - corrected after careful comparison with other occurrences within - the text and consultation of external sources. - - More detail can be found at the end of the book. - - - - -PIECE GOODS MANUAL. - - - - - PIECE GOODS - MANUAL. - - - FABRICS DESCRIBED; TEXTILE, KNIT GOODS, - WEAVING TERMS, ETC., EXPLAINED; WITH - NOTES ON THE CLASSIFICATION OF SAMPLES. - - - _Compiled and Illustrated, as an Aid to Members of the - Chinese Maritime Customs Service_, - - BY - - A. E. BLANCO, - - _Second Assistant, A, Chinese Maritime Customs_. - - - SHANGHAI: - - STATISTICAL DEPARTMENT - - OF THE - - INSPECTORATE GENERAL OF CUSTOMS. - - 1917. - - - - -PREFACE. - - -The following pages represent an attempt to compile, primarily for -the benefit of members of the Chinese Maritime Customs Service, -descriptions of cotton, woollen, and other fabrics, their weaves and -finishes, etc., together with other information concerning terms -currently used in the piece goods trade which are likely to be met -with in invoices, applications, or contracts. - -This manual does not embrace all textiles known to the trade, but it -does cover all those enumerated in the "Revised Import Tariff for -the Trade of China," as well as many others. As far as possible the -commonly accepted trade name has been used. It should, however, be -borne in mind that many fabrics are known in the trade by a variety -of names, so that one branch of the trade may not recognise a name -applied to the same fabric by another branch. - -The descriptions have been built up from information obtained first -hand from practical weavers, manufacturers, wholesale and retail -merchants, buyers, etc., as well as from personal visits to mills in -the Manchester and Huddersfield districts, and from standard works -on weaving. To Mr. G. W. Shaw, of Botham Hall, Huddersfield, I am -indebted for introductions to the principal manufacturers in that -district, enabling me to go through such mills as those of Mr. A. -Whitwam and Messrs. Godfrey Sykes, where every phase of manufacture -from raw material to finished goods was shown and explained with -characteristic Yorkshire thoroughness. I am indebted for either -information or actual samples, or both, to:-- - - Mr. A. F. H. Baldwin, American Commercial Attaché, London. - - John Bright & Bros., Limited, Rochdale. - - Mr. A. J. Brook, Huddersfield. - - Mr. C. W. Bunn, Deputy Appraiser, New York. - - Mr. F. Chitham, Director, Selfridge & Co., Limited, London. - - Mr. W. E. Dale-Shaw, Huddersfield. - - Drey, Simpson, & Co., Limited, Stockport. - - "Dry Goods Economist," New York. - - W. & C. Dunlop, Bradford. - - Fisher & Co., Huddersfield. - - Mr. W. R. Gandell, Board of Trade, London. - - Horrockses, Crewdson, & Co., Limited, Preston. - - W. G. Humphreys & Co., London. - - Mr. A. F. Kendrick, Board of Education, London. - - The London Chamber of Commerce. - - McCaw Allan & Co., Lurgan. - - Selfridge & Co., Limited, London. - - Mr. A. Sutton, Piece Goods Expert, Board of Trade, London. - - Tanner Bros., Greenfield. - - Mr. F. Walker, Huddersfield. - - William Watson & Co., London. - - Alfred Young & Co., Limited, London. - -The Board of Trade (through their Piece Goods Expert, Mr. A. Sutton), -John Bright & Bros., Limited, and Selfridge & Co., Limited, realising -the value of classified information concerning descriptions of piece -goods, have very kindly supplied me with ranges of samples. - -The following works have been consulted, and their contents have -materially assisted me. I take the opportunity of acknowledging my -indebtedness to their authors, as well as to those of any other works -consulted but which may have been omitted from this list:-- - - "Analysis of Woven Fabrics," by A. F. Barker and E. Midgley. - - Bennett's "Glossary of Fabrics." - - "Cotton," by R. J. Peake. - - "Cotton Goods in China," by Ralph M. Odell, U.S. Commercial Agent. - - "How to Buy and Judge Materials," by H. B. Heylin. - - House of Representatives Document No. 643 (Report of Tariff Board - on Schedule 1 of the Tariff Law). - - "Silk," by L. Hooper. - - "Textiles," by William H. Dooley. - - "Textiles," by Paul H. Nystrom, Ph.D. - - "The Cotton Weaver's Handbook," by H. B. Heylin. - - The Cotton Year Book. - - "The Draper's Dictionary," by S. William Beck. - - The Wool Year Book. - - "Wool," by J. A. Hunter. - -I wish specially to acknowledge my indebtedness to Mr. A. Sutton, -Piece Goods Expert to the Board of Trade, London, for having perused -the manuscript of the "Piece Goods Manual" and for the painstaking -manner in which he pointed out where modifications were advisable. -His suggestions have enabled me to revise definitions so as to make -them agree with accepted trade interpretations. - - A. E. BLANCO. - - LONDON, 1915-16. - - - - -LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. - - - Plain Weave Figure 1. - - Three-end Twill Weave " 2. - - Four-end Twill Weave " 3. - - Four-end Weft Twill Weave " 4. - - Two-and-two Twill Weave " 5. - - Irregular Twill Weave " 6. - - Five-end Warp Sateen Weave " 7. - - Five-end Weft Sateen Weave " 8. - - Simple Plain Gauze Weave " 9. - - Weft-pile Weave " 10. - - - - -[Illustration: FIGURE 1. - -PLAIN WEAVE. - -A. Weft threads. - -B. Warp threads. - -Figure 1 shows the simplest manner of interlacing warp and weft -threads. This style of weave is called plain, calico, or "one-over -and one-under" weave.] - - -[Illustration: FIGURE 2. - -THREE-END TWILL WEAVE. - -This figure illustrates the interlacing of warp (shaded) and weft -(white) threads, so as to produce a regular "three-end twill" weave. -It also shows the direction of twill. In this figure the warp -threads are shown interlaced with the weft threads in three distinct -positions. There is a distinct predominance of warp threads thrown to -the surface by this style of interlacing, and a fabric woven on this -system would be "warp-faced." This weave is called a two-warp and -one-weft regular twill, also Regatta and Galatea weave.] - - -[Illustration: FIGURE 3. - -FOUR-END TWILL WEAVE. - -This figure illustrates a four-end, three-warp and one-weft, regular -twill, also known as a Florentine twill, or a "three-up and one-down -twill." The twill produced by this style of interlacing is well -marked. The warp (shaded) predominates, and for this reason a cloth -woven on this system of interlacing would be termed "warp-faced," or -warp twill.] - - -[Illustration: FIGURE 4. - -FOUR-END WEFT TWILL WEAVE. - -This figure, in which the weft threads predominate on the surface, -illustrates a four-end, one-warp and three-weft, regular weft twill, -in which three-quarters of the weft threads are thrown to the surface -and the remaining quarter is warp. It is the reverse of Figure 3.] - - -[Illustration: FIGURE 5. - -TWO-AND-TWO TWILL WEAVE. - -This figure illustrates a four-end, two-warp and two-weft, regular -twill. Neither warp nor weft predominates on the surface. This style -of twill is known as Harvard twill.] - - -[Illustration: FIGURE 6. - -IRREGULAR TWILL WEAVE. - -This figure illustrates a broken or irregular twill, also known as a -broken Harvard or Stockinette weave.] - - -[Illustration: FIGURE 7. - -FIVE-END WARP SATEEN WEAVE. - -This figure illustrates the method of interlacing warp (shaded) -and weft threads so as to produce a five-end warp sateen, or satin -twill. This weave, in which the warp predominates on the surface, is -reversed in Figure 8.] - - -[Illustration: FIGURE 8. - -FIVE-END WEFT SATEEN WEAVE. - -This figure illustrates a five-end weft sateen. Sateen weaves are -virtually a form of broken or rearranged twill. The weft sateen -weave, represented by this figure, shows weft predominating on the -face: it is practically the reverse of the weave shown by Figure 7.] - - -[Illustration: FIGURE 9. - -SIMPLE PLAIN GAUZE WEAVE. - -In this figure A are threads known as crossing threads and are -typical of gauze weave; they are binding threads holding B (weft -threads) and C (warp threads) firmly together. It will be noticed -that B and C do not interlace to form a plain weave. If crossing -threads A were removed, no fabric would remain. These crossing -threads in this figure are shown as always passing over the weft -threads B and always under the warp threads C. This style of weave, -when combined with a few "plain-weave" picks, produces Leno.] - - -[Illustration: FIGURE 10. - -WEFT-PILE WEAVE. - -In this figure A is a weft-pile pick or flushing thread; B is a -backing or ground cloth pick; the dots show cross section of warp -threads. It will be seen that the ground picks B, together with the -warp threads (shown cut through), form the foundation fabric. Pile -thread A is shown bound into the fabric by the second, eighth, and -fourteenth warp thread. Pile threads are cut after leaving the loom -at a point indicated by the arrows; the pile produced is then sheared -level and suitably finished.] - - - - -PIECE GOODS MANUAL. - - -=Actual.=--The terms "actual" and "nominal" are used in the trade to -indicate (1) that the width should be taken as stated or (2) that a -certain amount of allowance should be made. "Actual" implies that the -width is not less than stated. "Nominal" means that the width of the -cloth may vary as much as half an inch below width given on contract. - - -=Agaric.=--A cotton fabric of loop yarn construction, having a -surface somewhat similar to a fine Turkish Towelling. - - -=Albatross.=--A dress fabric of worsted warp and worsted filling of -open texture and fancy weaves. When the name is applied to a cotton -fabric it is used to designate a plain-woven all-cotton fabric, soft, -fine, and free from ornamentations, made in imitation of the worsted -fabric of the same name. It has a fleecy surface, is generally sold -in white, black, or solid colours, being used instead of Bunting for -flags. Not often used for printing, for which purpose it is not well -adapted. - - -=Alhambra Quilt.=--An all-cotton counterpane woven with a coarse -waste weft known as Candlewick. A loosely woven coloured warp yarn -is used for the figuring and a grey "sticking" warp for securing the -weft in position. - - -=Alpaca.=--This name is given to a fabric woven with a cotton warp -and an alpaca wool weft. The fabric is classed as a lustre fabric, -this being due to the predominance of the lustrous weft. Generally -plain woven with a simple one-over and one-under weave, Alpaca is, -when solid coloured, a cross-dyed fabric, i.e., one in which the -cotton warp yarns were dyed prior to weaving and the piece of fabric -piece-dyed after leaving the loom. Similar to Lustre Orleans, Mohair -Brilliantine, and Mohair Sicilian, which are typical lustre fabrics. - - -=Alpaca Wool= is the fleece of the Peruvian sheep, which is a species -of llama. The staple is of good length and soft, but is not quite as -lustrous as mohair. The natural colours are white, black, brown, and -fawn. - - -=Alpacianos.=--Nothing seems to be recorded in any modern book -dealing with textiles or in any technical dictionary concerning any -fabric known by the name of Alpacianos. The name, however, appears in -the Revised Import Tariff for the trade of China, from which it would -appear to be an all-cotton fabric, piece-dyed after leaving the loom, -probably averaging between 28 and 31 inches in width and about 25 -yards in length. The name is probably of South American origin. - - -=American Sheetings.=--A rather coarse make of plain-woven grey -cloth, woven from coarse yarns (about 20's counts), 48 threads of -warp and the same number of weft picks to the inch, and generally -woven with "twist way" weft. Another name for this material is Cabot. -Average width, 36 inches; length, 40 yards per piece. Weight varies. -The use of the name Sheeting, as applied to this class of material, -is now firmly established but incorrect, Sheetings originally being a -two-and-two twill fabric having a width of as much as 120 inches. - - -=Angola.=--This name is used to designate a plain or twill weave -fabric having a cotton warp and a weft made from cotton and wool -scribbled together prior to being spun. The proportion of wool to -cotton varies. This scribbled wool and cotton yarn, or Angola Wool as -it is called, generally contains about 20 per cent. of cotton and 80 -per cent. of wool. - - -=Angola Yarn or Wool.=--A yarn spun from a mixture of 80 per cent. -wool and 20 per cent. cotton. - - -=Angora.=--Angora is the name of a species of goat which yields a -wool commercially known as Mohair. This kind of wool enters largely -into the classes of goods known as Astrakhan, Crépon, Plushes, -Brilliantine, Zibelines, fine Cashmeres, and other fabrics usually -sold as all wool. It enters into the manufacture of very high-grade -fabrics in combination with silk. More lustrous than wool, it has -not, however, the warmth-retaining properties of the latter. - - -=Angora Goat.=--A species of goat originally bred in Asia Minor, -producing Mohair fibre. From the long silky hair of this goat was -made Turkish Yarn or Camel Yarn. The name Camel Yarn has led to -mistakes; it has no reference to the camel, but is derived from the -Arabic word _chamal_, fine. - - -=Animalised Cotton.=--To increase the affinity of cotton for -dye-stuffs and at the same time increase its lustre, cotton is -sometimes treated with solutions of wool, silk, or gelatine in such -a manner that when the solvent has evaporated the coated surface -remains sufficiently pliable not to crack under normal conditions. - - -=Armure.=--A weave which produces a fine pebbled surface. - - -=Artificial Silk.=--In the making of artificial silk, cellulose -prepared from wood or cotton is turned into a nitro-cellulose by -treatment with nitric acid. This nitro-cellulose is made liquid -by dissolving it in ether and alcohol, then forced under pressure -through very fine tubes, or forced through holes of about 1/250th -of an inch pierced in a platinum plate, in the form of very fine -threads, from which the ether and alcohol evaporate readily, leaving -the nitro-cellulose as a fine lustrous fibre. Artificial silk is -often used in the ornamentation of figured fabrics. It bears a very -deceptive resemblance to true silk, but the individual fibres are -coarser and burn very quickly, without the typical smell of true -silk and without the hard bubble of ash. Its value is about a third -of that of the best silk, but as an offset to this must be taken its -higher specific gravity. If of equal thickness, the length of thread, -weight for weight, is only from half to two-thirds that of real silk. - - -=Astrakhan.=--A fabric having a curly, wavy surface resembling -Astrakhan fleece. There are three varieties of this kind of fabric, -each produced on a different principle: (1) on the weft principle, -in which, owing to shrinkage of the ground texture, the pile weft is -thrown up and forms a curly loop; (2) on the warp texture principle, -in which a thick curly warp yarn is brought over wires to form the -necessary loops; and (3) the cheapest form, as a knitted fabric. - -Astrakhan varies as regards the size of the loop which goes to make -the curl. The lustre yarn that is used is curled before use, the curl -being fixed by heat. The ground texture is cotton. Width varies from -48 to 50 inches; weight from 19 to 36 ounces per yard of the 50-inch -wide material. The heavier grades run 35 to 40 yards per piece, the -lighter grades from 50 to 55 yards. Generally met with in solid black -or a grey produced by blending black and white fibres, also in solid -white. Astrakhans have generally an uncut pile, but are sometimes -finished with part of the loop curls cut, say, 50 per cent., which -gives the fabric the appearance of woolly fur with complete curls at -intervals. - - -=Back Cloth.=--An unbleached, reinforcing, all-cotton cloth, plain -woven, used in printing fabrics to support the fabric which is being -printed. - - -=Backed Cloth.=--To add weight to certain single texture fabrics, -extra threads running either in the direction of the warp, i.e., -lengthways of the piece, or weftways across the piece, are stitched -on to the back of the fabric. Fabrics having such extra threads -stitched on to them are called Backed Cloths. - - -=Baffetas.=--Plain-woven cloth, bleached or dyed blue. - - -=Baize.=--A coarse, harsh, loosely woven woollen fabric of plain -weave, having a long nap on both sides like flannel. Baize is -generally dyed in bright colours and is known under the name Bayetas. -Average width 66 to 67 inches, length 30 to 45 yards per piece. - - -=Balbriggan.=--Named after the town of Balbriggan, Ireland. First -applied, in 1845, to full-fashioned hosiery made from unbleached -cotton. About 1860 the term was applied to knit underwear of the same -material. It was originally used only on high-class goods, but now -covers everything in light-weight flat underwear made of yarn stained -to the shade of Egyptian cotton. - - -=Bale of Cotton.=--The standard bale of cotton, according to the -usage of the trade in England and America and generally accepted -elsewhere, weighs 500 pounds. The following is the average weight and -density of cotton bales:-- - - DENSITY - WEIGHT. PER CUBIC FOOT. - ---- ---- - Egyptian about 700 lb. 34 lb. - American " 500 " 24 " - East Indian " 400 " 30 " - Brazilian " 250 " 20 " - - -=Baline.=--A coarse canvas, mostly made of better grades of jute, -flax, and hemp, used for upholstery purposes, interlinings, tailoring -purposes, etc. - - -=Balzarine Brocades, Dyed.=--The cotton variety of this class of -fabric would be an all-cotton fabric having a gauze weave and -net-like appearance which had been embellished by the addition of -certain figures or designs woven into the fabric either by means of -combination of the warp and weft threads or by means of an additional -thread or threads. But Lappet or Swivel figured Balzarines would not -be considered Brocades in the true sense, as such style of figuring -is not brocaded. Dyed Balzarine Brocades are piece-dyed after leaving -the loom. - - -=Balzarines.=--Very few books of reference make mention of this kind -of fabric. Of "uncertain origin," this name is said to have been -given to "a light-weight mixed fabric of cotton and wool for women's -dresses commonly used for summer gowns before the introduction of -barége (or barrège)." Barége was, for the name seems to have fallen -into disuse, "an open fabric resembling gauze, but more open in -texture and stouter in thread. It was made of various materials but -is best known as made of silk warp and worsted weft. It was first -employed as ornament for the head, especially for sacred ceremonies, -as baptism and marriage." It would appear, therefore, from the above -that Balzarines--of the cotton variety--would be a gauze weave or -net-like fabric woven from cotton warp and cotton weft. They may -have been either bleached, dyed, printed, or brocaded. The exact -difference between Balzarines and other gauze fabrics does not appear -in any modern works dealing with textiles. The fabric probably -approximates 30 inches in width and from 28 to 30 yards in length -per piece. Unless specially designated as such, Balzarines are free -from brocaded ornamentation; but from the fact that they are found -associated with Lenos, they may, like these, have some plain weave -combined with the main gauze structure--probably running in stripes -lengthways of the piece. - - -=Bandanna= is a term applied to materials that have been dyed in a -somewhat unusual manner, the cloth being tied in knots prior to being -dipped into the dye-stuff. A peculiar clouded effect is produced, as -the dye-stuff does not reach the knotted parts equally with the rest -of the surface. This term is met with most frequently in connexion -with a large handkerchief, of which great quantities were imported -into India for sale to the natives. - - -=Barré.=--A striped or barred design, woven or printed, running from -selvedge to selvedge. - - -=Basket Cloth.=--A plain-woven all-cotton fabric woven with two or -more warp threads grouped together without twisting and woven as a -unit of matt weave. - - -=Batiste.=--A fabric of French origin; the term has come to mean -commercially a light, sheer cloth, made of fine quality of yarns and -woven with a plain weave. A light fabric, with a Swiss finish, in -distinction from a Nainsook, and usually wider and heavier than the -latter fabric. In 32-inch widths and up a line of Batistes runs 14 -to 16 square yards to the pound. There are bleached and unbleached -cotton Batistes, also linen and coloured Batistes. The cotton are -largely ecru, and the linen are most commonly in the grey. There is -a gradual variation in qualities ranging from a comparatively coarse -to a very fine Batiste. There are also wool Batistes. - - -=Bayadère.=--Applied to fabrics in which the stripe, whether woven or -printed, runs crosswise, that is, from selvedge to selvedge. - - -=Bayetas.=--The Spanish for Baize, which is a coarse, harsh, loosely -woven woollen fabric having a long nap on both sides like flannel. -Bayetas are generally dyed in bright colours and have an average -width of 66 to 67 inches and a length of 30 to 45 yards per piece. - - -=Beavers.=--A heavy cloth manufactured of fine wool with a finish on -face made to imitate the appearance of the beaver's fur. When the -surface is made with a long and dense nap this fabric becomes known -as Fur Beaver. - - -=Beaverteen.=--A heavy, twill-weave, all-cotton fabric of the fustian -or uncut pile variety, usually dyed in shades of grey or tan and -generally used for garments having to withstand rough wear. - - -=Bedford Cords.=--Fabrics having cords or ribs running in the -direction of the length of the cloth, produced by interweaving the -weft, in plain or twill order, with alternate groups of warp threads. -The ribs may be emphasised by the addition of wadding or stuffing -warp threads. Bedford Cords may be woven as either an all-cotton, -all-wool, or wool and cotton fabric. The ribs of Bedford Cords are -but slightly separated from each other. Cotton Bedford Cords closely -resemble a wide-welt Piqué. _See_ Welt. - - -=Beige.=--A dress fabric, generally twilled weave, made of yarns -spun from wool which has been dyed in the stock prior to being spun, -mostly met with in greys, browns, and mottled or mixed effects. In -America the term is used to designate a dress fabric of fine texture -woven from yarns in which two threads of different colours are -twisted together or wherein printed yarns are employed. - - -=Bengal Stripes.=--An all-cotton plain-woven fabric of the striped -Gingham variety. Warp yarns partially white, balance dyed indigo blue. - - -=Bengaline.=--A silk fabric having thick threads or cords at -intervals, from selvedge to selvedge. Frequently the cord is of wool, -covered with silk in the process of weaving, or cotton and silk are -combined together to produce this kind of material. When made of all -cotton and known as a cotton Bengaline, it is generally mercerised. -The warp yarn is often of two-ply. Bengaline has much the appearance -of Poplin. - -Silk or part-silk Bengalines are often treated to an embossing -process, which method presses a figure upon the fabric very similar -in appearance to a Jacquard woven effect. A common name for Reps, -also similar to Poplin, but generally of a heavier corded appearance -with the cord running transversely across the face of the fabric. - - -=Binding Cloth.=--A muslin dyed and stamped or embossed, used to -cover books by bookbinders. - - -=Bleached.=--This term is used to designate either raw cotton, cotton -yarn, or more often cotton fabrics which have been rendered white. -The most generally used agent for bleaching is chloride of lime. The -process of bleaching varies according to whether the fibres being -bleached are in the loose, the yarn, or the woven state. Prior to -being bleached fabrics are said to be in the "grey"; after bleaching -they are said to be "white." - - -=Bleached Domestics.=--A term commonly used referring to the cheaper -grades of bleached cotton cloths, either plain or twilled. - - -=Bombazine.=--Bombazine is the name given to a twilled fabric of -which the warp is of silk and the filling is worsted. - - -=Book-fold Muslin.=--A trade designation meaning muslin put up in -24-yard lengths, folded in such a way as to open book-wise from the -centre, the various folds resembling the leaves of a book. - - -=Botany.=--A term applied to worsted yarns made from Botany wool. It -is considered the finest of all worsted yarns and is used for making -fine fabrics of close texture. The name Botany is commonly used to -designate a fine grade of Australian wool. - - -=Bouclé.=--Having knots, loops, or curls on the surface; usually -employed for cloakings. Imitation Astrakhan is a type of the kind of -fabric coming under the heading Bouclé. - - -=Bourette.=--A rough-surfaced effect produced by introducing lumpy, -knotted yarns at intervals in the weaving. - - -=Broadcloth.=--Broadcloth is a soft, closely woven material made with -an all-wool warp and filling having a satin finish. The beauty of -Broadcloth depends on its even, nappy, lustrous surface. The three -main points that go towards fixing its value are the quality of the -wool used, the uniformity of the nap, and the perfection of finish. -It is most often twill woven, double plain, but it is also met with -in a plain weave. - - -=Brocade.=--The ordinary cotton Brocade is a figured fabric of single -texture. More elaborate Brocades, used for dress and upholstery -purposes, may have several wefts, in which case the cloth is -one-sided, the warp forming the ground on the face, and the wefts -appearing only where required to produce figure. Soft-spun wefts are -often used in Brocades and similar kinds of cloths, the better to -fill and throw up the figure used in their ornamentation. It is a -term commonly applied to fabrics of different weaves or combinations -of weaves in which the design appearing on the surface of the fabric -is of a fancy figured or floral effect, usually of elaborate design; -also used as an adjective to denote "woven figured." - - -=Brocatelle.=--The real Brocatelle is a rich upholstery fabric, which -has a raised figure of silk warp and weft interwoven in satin order, -on a ground formed by a linen weft and a special binder warp. The -name is also applied to quilts having a coarse white weft and two -colours of warp, which latter change places for figuring purposes. - - -=Broché.=--The French term for Brocade. Elaborate figures woven on -the surface of the fabric. - - -=Brown Sheeting.=--This term is the equivalent of "plain grey cloths" -and covers all weights of cotton goods in the grey or unfinished -condition. - - -=Brown Shirting.=--The term is restricted usually to mean such grey -cotton cloths as have a width of 40 inches or less from selvedge to -selvedge. - - -=Bugis.=--This name is given to a fine make of cotton sarong having -only one side decorated with a border design. It is used by sewing -two pieces together plain edge to plain edge, thus converting it into -a sarong with both edges ornamented. - - -="Bump" Yarns.=--Cotton yarns of coarse numbers below 3's, used for -weft purposes in counterpanes and other coarse fabrics, are termed -"Bump" Yarns. Sometimes the term Candlewick is used for very coarse -counts. The counts in the case of "Bump" Yarns are denoted by the -number of yards weighing 1 ounce. - -This kind of weft is extensively used for coarse and heavy goods, -such as bagging, Alhambra quilts, etc. - -_Example._--A yarn weighing 60 yards to the ounce would be termed -60's "Bump." - - -=Bunting.=--A plain, loose, even-thread weave of Mohair wool or -worsted, used mostly for making flags. Bunting, which is a material -having to be dyed, is made of wool and not cotton or other vegetable -fibre for the reason that wool has a greater affinity for dye-stuffs -than cotton and retains them better. There is, however, a cotton -fabric woven from low-count yarns, generally known as either Butter -Muslin or Cheese Cloth, which is sometimes called Bunting. - - -=Burlaps.=--A plain-woven, coarse, and heavy fabric made from jute, -flax, or hemp, used for wrappings, upholstery, etc. - - -=Butcher's Linen.=--A coarse, heavy, plain-weave linen. - - -=Cabled Yarns.=--Cabled Yarns are produced by folding together -"two-fold" threads. Under the heading "Folded Yarn" it will be seen -that when two single threads of 60's count yarn are twisted together -they produce a two-fold 60's, written thus: 2/60. When three such -two-fold yarns are twisted together they produce a six-fold 60's -thread. Sewing cottons, known in the trade as Spool Cotton, are good -examples of Cabled Yarns. - - -=Cabot.=--A Levant term for a rather coarse make of plain grey cloth, -woven from coarse yarns (about 20's counts); 48 warp threads and the -same number of picks to the inch. - -Lancashire-made Cabots are usually heavily sized. Considerable -quantities of this cloth are made in South Carolina mills in 36-inch -width and shipped to China under the name of American Sheetings. - - -=Calico.=--This name is used to designate most plain-woven cotton -fabrics which have simple designs printed on their face in either one -or more colours. Calicoes are usually in two colours, that is, one -colour for the ground and the other for the figure or design. The -ground colour is generally effected by piece-dyeing the fabric in -some solid colour. After the cloth is dyed the design is printed on -the cloth. Being cheap fabrics, Calicoes are generally given a "cheap -common dye"--by this is meant that the colours are not fast and will -run or fade when washed. The printing of Calicoes is done by the aid -of a machine whose main feature is a revolving cylinder on which the -design has been stamped or cut out. Such machines are capable of -printing several colours in one design. Calico is woven with a plain -one-over and one-under weave. As a textile term it is applied to -cheaper grades of plain cotton cloth, and the name is rightly applied -when such cloths are printed. In the Manchester district and in Great -Britain generally the term Calico is used only to designate a plain -grey or white shirting or sheeting free from any ornamentation. - - -=Camel's Hair.=--A loosely woven fabric of long-fibre wool. The term -in its original sense is used to describe the soft downy fibre from -the haunches and under parts of the camel. - - -=Camlets (Woollen).=--An all-wool plain-woven fabric free from any -ornamentation of weave produced either by combination of weave or -extra warp or weft threads. It is invariably woven with the plain -one-over and one-under weave from worsted yarns, which make the -fabric somewhat lustrous. In width averaging 30 to 31 inches and in -length 60 to 61 yards. Camlets are only divisible into two kinds, -Dutch and English. The former variety appears to be no longer made, -and one manufacturer states that practically 99 per cent. of the -Camlets imported into China are of the English variety. Not unlike -an Alpaca in feel, though somewhat less lustrous, Camlets may be -compared to a very fine wool Bunting. - - -=Camlets, Dutch (Woollen).=--This heading apparently covers a -type of material which has almost disappeared from the market. -Originally a rough cloth made from camel's hair, it was known as -either Camlet or Camelot. A somewhat ancient description is "a rough -fabric composed of wool and cotton, or hair and silk with a wavy or -variegated surface." A firm of manufacturers in Bradford, written -to for information under this heading, writes as follows: "This -is a very ancient heading, and Camlets now are only made in this -country, and although there are about three qualities shipped to -China, practically speaking, 99 per cent. are in the quality of the -sample shown." The sample in question shows the fabric to be a plain, -all-wool, fairly loosely plain-woven fabric dyed a bright vermilion. -Both warp and weft are of worsted yarn and hence it is a somewhat -lustrous fabric; in width it averages between 30 and 31 inches, in -length from 60 to 61 yards, and its average value during the 10 years -1904-14 was 40_s._ 5_d._ per piece. Camlet somewhat resembles a fine -Bunting and has a harsh handle; somewhat stiff, it has the feel of an -Alpaca fabric. - - -=Camlets, English (Woollen).=--This fabric is described under -Camlets, Dutch. A typical sample of English-made Woollen Camlets -showed the fabric to be a plain, all-wool, fairly loosely plain-woven -fabric dyed a bright vermilion. Both warp and weft are of worsted -yarn, and hence it is a somewhat lustrous fabric, averaging 30 to 31 -inches in width and 60 to 61 yards in length. Average value of the -quality generally imported into China was for the 10 years 1904-14 -40_s._ 5_d._ per piece. Somewhat harsh of handle, it resembles a fine -Bunting with the stiff feel of an Alpaca. - -The earliest mention of English Camlets is to be found in Camden's -"Brittania," 1610, where, speaking of Coventry, it is said: "Its -wealth, arising in the last age from the woollen and camblet -manufacture, made it the only mart of this part." In the next century -those of Brussels are said to exceed all other Camlets for beauty and -quality, those of England being reputed second. - - -=Caniche.=--Name given to a curled wool fabric showing the effect of -the coat of the _caniche_, or French poodle. - - -=Canton Flannel.=--This term is used to designate an all-cotton -flannel, first made for and exported to Canton. Canton Flannel will -be found more fully described under "Cotton Flannel." It is a narrow -heavy fabric, twill woven, showing twill on one side and having a -long, soft, raised nap on the other. Woven as a four-shaft twill for -winter weights and as a three-shaft twill for the summer weight. -Width from 27 to 30 inches. Canton Flannel is taken direct from the -loom, measured, napped, and folded, and packed for shipment. The yarn -used to make this class of cloth is spun from low-grade cotton of -from three-fourths to 1 inch in length of staple, generally dyed in -bright colours. - - -=Canvas.=--Canvas is a coarse plain-weave fabric woven from yarn -which is hard twisted. It is often woven from folded yarn, and this -may readily be seen in what is known as embroidery canvas. Canvas -used for sails is generally a stout strong-built cloth woven with -"double warp coarse flax yarns." A term applied to heavy, plain, -unbleached, dyed or yarn-dyed fabric, of different grades or weights -properly made of ply yarns, although the term more frequently applies -to fabrics of such similar appearance made without or partially of -ply yarn. Various sorts of Canvases are known in different trades, -such as Embroidery Canvas, Duck, Dress Canvas, Mercerised Canvas, -etc. Dress fabrics, the principal part of which are of such a -construction, are still termed Canvas in the distributing trade when -they contain stripes or fancy effects of other weaves. - - -=Carbonising.=--All-wool cloths and even raw wool very often contain -a certain amount of vegetable matter, such as burrs, the chemical -composition of which is similar to that of cotton, and as it is -at times very desirable to extract this vegetable matter, the -cloth or fibre is for this purpose subjected to a process known -as carbonising. The material is passed through a bath containing -sulphuric acid of a suitable strength and temperature. Upon drying, -the acid concentrates upon the vegetable matter, converting it into -hydrocellulose, which, being in the form of a powder, is easily -removed, while the wool, not being acted upon by the acid to any -considerable extent, remains intact. This system would be employed -to test the percentage of cotton in any union fabric: by carefully -weighing the sample prior to treatment and again after all the -vegetable matter had been carbonised the proportion of cotton to wool -can readily be ascertained. - - -=Casement cloth.=--A plain-woven fabric used for casement window -curtains and usually white or cream-coloured. Casement Cloth is made -from either mohair, alpaca, or cotton. The cotton variety is made -from high-class yarns, well woven, and is mercerised before bleaching -or dyeing. - - -=Cashmere.=--A cloth made from the hair of the Cashmere goat. The -face of the fabric is twilled, the twills or diagonal lines being -uneven and irregular owing to the unevenness of the yarn. Cashmere -was originally made from hand-spun yarn. In the knitted goods trade -the word Cashmere, when applied to hosiery or underwear, means goods -made of fine worsted yarns spun from Saxony or other soft wools. - -Cashmere has been described as being a lightly woven woollen fabric -of twilled construction and soft finish, having the twill on the -"right" side, _i.e._, on the face of the fabric. It is sometimes -woven with a cotton warp and fine Botany wool weft. An all-cotton -variety, woven in the same way as the true Cashmere, is also met -with: it is known as Cotton Cashmere. - - -=Cashmere Double.=--A Cashmere cloth having as a distinctive feature -a twill face and a Poplin-corded effect on the reverse. - - -=Cashmere Wool= is the fine, extremely soft, grey or white fur of the -Cashmere goat, which is bred in Tibet. There are two kinds of fibre -obtained: one, which is really the outer covering, consisting of long -tufts of hair, beneath which is found the other, the true Cashmere -Wool of commerce, a soft downy wool of brownish grey tint having a -fine silky fibre. - - -=Castor.=--A heavy cloth, manufactured of fine wool with a finish on -the face made to imitate the fur of the beaver. This cloth differs -from Beaver Cloth only in its weight, Castor cloth being lighter than -Beaver. - - -=Cellular Cloth.=--A plain Leno fabric having an open cellular -structure, which is specially suited for shirtings and underwear. -Cellular Cloth is also found with stripes of different weave, though -still a form of Leno weave to the rest of the fabric. - - -=Ceylon or Ceylon Flannel.=--A coloured striped cloth woven with a -cotton and wool mixture weft. The warp threads which form the stripes -are dyed in the yarn prior to weaving. - - -=Challis.=--The name is given to a light-weight plain or figured -material made either of cotton or wool or a mixture of both. An -all-wool Challis has, when plain woven, the appearance of a Muslin -Delaine. Usually printed. - - -=Chambray.=--Chambray is a staple fabric of many years standing, -being next in line of the cotton goods after the better grades of -Gingham. It is a light-weight single cloth fabric, always woven with -a plain weave and a white selvedge. It is woven from warp and weft -which may be either all cotton, cotton and silk, or all silk: it has -an average width of 27 or 30 inches and weighs 2 to 3½ ounces per -finished yard. When made as an all-cotton fabric it is finished in -the same way as a Gingham. - - -=Charmeuse.=--A light-weight satin having a high natural lustre. - - -=Checks.=--Fabrics having rectangular patterns formed by crossing the -threads of a striped warp with weft threads of the same order. "Mock" -Checks are produced by combining weave effects. - -When Checks are woven without a highly variegated colouring they are -known as Ginghams. - - -=Cheese Cloth.=--A very open and lightly constructed thin cotton -fabric of light weight and low-count yarns, woven with a plain weave, -weighing from 9 to 12 yards to the pound. Cheese Cloth is often -used for Bunting, by which name it is sometimes known. The Cheese -Cloth used for wrapping round cheese and butter after they have been -pressed is a bleached cloth. - - -=Cheviot.=--Most stout woollen fabrics which have a rough or shaggy -face are described as Cheviots, which has become a term denoting more -a class of goods than a particular fabric. It has a slightly felted, -short, even nap on the face, and is often made of "pulled wool," -which is the wool taken from the pelts of dead sheep. - -Mungo, shoddy, and a fair percentage of cotton enter into the -composition of the yarn from which it is made. Irrespective of the -quality of the yarn used, however, Cheviots are finished either with -a "rough" or a close finish. The weave may either be plain or twill. - - -=Chiffon.=--A sheer silk tissue of plain weave and soft finish. The -word is often used to indicate light weight and soft finish, as -Chiffon Velvet. - - -=Chinchilla.=--A fabric made of fine wool, having a surface composed -of small tufts closely united. The name is Spanish for a fur-bearing -animal of the mink species, and the fabric is an imitation of the fur. - - -=Chiné.=--Warp-printed: a fabric wherein the design, being printed on -the warps, appears somewhat faintly and in indefinite outline. The -weft is not printed, but is generally in the white. Some varieties, -occasionally met with, have a coloured weft. This class of fabric is -also known as a Shadow Cretonne, when the designs are of the variety -generally used in Cretonne fabrics. - - -=Chintz.=--When this name is applied to a fabric other than a printed -Chintz it is used to designate a woven Chintz, which is a fabric on -the warp threads of which, before being woven into cloth, various -coloured designs have been printed. Many silk ribbons are Chintz -woven. Where the colours seem to have run in the pattern the name -Chene is sometimes used. Warp-printed Chintz is also known as Shadow -Cretonne, from the softness of the design due to the white weft -blurring the sharpness of the design printed on the warp. - - -=Clip Spots.=--Figured Muslins ornamented by small detached figures -of extra warp or weft, the floating material between the spots being -afterwards clipped or sheared off. - - -=Coated Cotton Cloths.=--This name is given to a cloth having one -or both surfaces coated with paint, varnish, pigments, or other -substances. Examples of coated cloths are Tracing Cloth, Bookbinder's -Cloth, Imitation Vellum, Oilcloths, and Oilskins. - - -=Collarette.=--A wide knitted neckband used on men's undershirts in -lieu of binding. - - -=Coloured.=--This term, when applied to textile fabrics, is used to -show that the fabric which is designated as "coloured" has been dyed -in the yarn and not dyed subsequently to having been woven, _i.e._, -it has been woven from coloured yarns. - - -=Coloured Crimp Cloth.=--Like all other fabrics that are designated -as "coloured," Coloured Crimp Cloth is dyed in the yarn and not -piece-dyed. Coloured Crimp Cloth is essentially a Crimp Cloth which -has been woven from previously dyed yarn; apart from this difference -it answers the description given under Crimp Cloth, Plain or Crimps. - - -=Coloured Lists.=--All serges, etc., that are dyed in the wool or -yarn, as against those dyed in the piece, have coloured lists or -edging. The word "list" is another name for selvedge. - - -=Coloured Woollen and Worsted Yarns.=--The most important coloured -woollen and worsted yarns are: (_a._) Mixtures, (_b._) Mélanges, -(_c._) Marls, and (_d._) Twists. - -(_a._) _Mixtures._--A mixture yarn is one composed of fibres of two -or more colours which have been thoroughly blended. In woollens the -wool is dyed after scouring and the mixing accomplished during the -carding process. - -(_b._) _Mélange._--This is a fine mixture yarn produced from a -top-printed sliver. The result is obtained by printing at regular -intervals the required colours on the top of the sliver. The mixing -of the fibres and colours is brought about during the drawing and -spinning processes. As a rule only long fibres such as Mohair are -subjected to this method of treatment. In these yarns, on many fibres -two or more colours may be clearly seen under the microscope. - -(_c._) _Marls._--A term sometimes applied to three-fold twist yarns, -but more correctly applied to a yarn which is between a twist and -the mixture yarn. It is produced by combing two or more slivers of -different colour in the later drawing operations, and in consequence -the colours are not so thoroughly blended as in the case of mixture -yarns. - -(_d._) _Twists._--This class of yarn is produced by simply twisting -or folding together two or more yarns of different colours. - - -=Corduroy.=--Corduroy, like many other low-grade cotton fabrics woven -with a pile weave, such as Cotton Velvets, Velveteens, Moleskins, -is really a Fustian. The pile surface of Corduroys does not cover -the surface of the fabric uniformly, as in the case of Velveteens, -for instance, but runs in straight lines or ribs, which may be of -different sizes and have round or flat tops. When a Corduroy has a -twill back it is known as a "Genoa" backed Corduroy; when, as in the -lighter makes, the back shows a plain weave it is known as "Tabby" -backed. - -Corduroy is a cotton fabric with the ribs running lengthways of -the piece. The pile is a weft pile. Corduroys are made in many -varieties--known as Fine Reed, Eight Shafts, Thicksets, Constitution, -Cables, etc. Constitution and Cables have broad floats or races -which are some distance apart. The term Corduroy, when applied to -hosiery, is used to designate stockings which are commonly known -as two-and-two rib, or two ribs alternating on face and back of -children's stockings. - - -=Côtelé.=--A ribbed weave in flat, rather wide effect. - - -=Cotton.=--Cotton is the most used of all vegetable fibres for the -manufacture of textiles. Length and fineness of individual fibres go -towards making quality; shortness and coarseness of fibre make for -low qualities. - -The chief classes of cotton are known as Sea Island, Egyptian, -American, Brazilian, Peruvian, East Indian, the first mentioned being -the highest and the last the lowest quality. Qualities are designated -in each class as follows:-- - - 1. Fair. - 2. Middling Fair. - 3. Good Middling. - 4. Middling. - 5. Low Middling. - 6. Good Ordinary. - 7. Ordinary. - -East Indian type of cotton fibres measure on an average but half an -inch, as compared with 2 inches in Sea Island type. - - -=Cotton Duck.=--Duck being a fabric which is sometimes woven in -linen, to refer to it simply as Duck might be misleading; hence, -although when used by itself the term Duck is generally recognised -to mean a cotton fabric, to differentiate between the two the word -Cotton or Linen is used. This fabric is described under "Duck." - - -=Cotton Flannel.=--As the name implies, Cotton Flannel is a material -woven in cotton in imitation of the real all-wool flannel. It is -either a plain or a twill woven fabric which has had the weft on one -or both sides of the fabric "raised" or "napped." This is done by -passing the fabric, whilst it is tightly stretched, over a revolving -cylinder, the surface of which is covered with small steel hooks or -teasels; these, scratching as they do the surface of the fabric, tear -up very slightly the short fibres and cover the fabric with a "nap," -which is afterwards cut down uniformly. Cotton Flannel was first -made for the Canton market. Cotton Flannels may be either "single -raised" or "double raised"; in the first only one side of the fabric -is raised, in the second both sides are raised. Whilst Cotton Flannel -clearly shows that the fabric is a cotton one, the term Flannelette -does not necessarily mean that it is a purely cotton fabric identical -with Cotton Flannel. Flannelette may contain wool, even if only -in very small percentage, but by trade usage the name is used to -designate only an all-cotton fabric. - - -=Cotton Plush.=--The term Plush being a generic term applied to -cut-pile fabrics having the pile deeper than ordinary Velvet, -Velveteen, etc., it follows that Cotton Plush is essentially a -cotton-pile fabric with a somewhat deeper pile than Velveteen. -Cotton Plushes may be woven with either plain or twill back, -the plain-backed variety being known as a "Genoa" Plush and the -twill-backed variety as a "Tabby" Plush. - - -=Cotton Yarn Measures.=-- - - 54 inches = 1 thread (or circumference of wrap reel). - 4,320 " = 80 threads = 1 lea. - 30,240 " = 560 " = 7 lea = 1 hank. - 1 hank = 840 yards. - 1 bundle is usually 10 lb. in weight. - -The French system of numbering Cotton Yarns is as follows:-- - - 1,000 metres weighing 500 grammes = No. 1's. - 1,000 " " 250 " = No. 2's. - 1,000 " " 50 " = No. 10's. - 1,000 " " 25 " = No. 20's. - -The count is therefore arrived at by dividing the number of metres -reeled by twice the number of grammes they weigh. - - -=Counts.=--The size of yarn is technically called the "count," and -it is based upon the number of hanks, "cuts," or "runs" of a given -length which are required to weigh 1 pound. The standard length of -the hank varies according to the nature of the yarn. Cotton Yarn -measures 840 yards per hank; Worsted Yarn measures 560 yards per -hank; Woollen Yarn measures 256 or 300 yards per "cut," "run," or -hank, according to district; Linen measures 300 yards per lea; and -Spun Silk, 840 yards per hank. The number of such "cuts," "runs," -hanks, or leas required to weigh 1 pound avoirdupois equal the number -of the count. When Woollen Yarn is in gala cuts of 300 yards the -number of such cuts required to weigh 24 ounces equal the count: this -becomes equivalent to the number of 200 yards required to weigh 1 -pound. - - -=Coutil.=--French for Drill. A strong three-thread twill cloth -with herring-bone stripes dyed drab or French grey and used for -corset-making. - - -=Covert.=--A wool or worsted cloth, usually in fine twill weave, in -small mixture effect. There are various grades of Coverts and they -all have as a distinctive feature neutral tones of colour. The real -Covert cloth is always made from double and twist warp yarns and -single fillings. The weave is such that the filling yarn does not -show on the face of the cloth, therefore almost any shade similar in -general tone to the warp may be used as filling. Cheap grades are -made as a piece-dyed union mixture containing up to 30 per cent. -cotton. They are also known as Venetian Coverts when they have a -pronounced whipcord effect. The weave is a sateen weave of the -warp-face variety. - - -=Crabbing.=--One of the many processes through which cloth goes from -the time it leaves the loom on its way to being turned out as a -finished fabric. The object of crabbing is to fix or set the cloth -at the width it has to be as a finished fabric. The actual operation -of crabbing consists of running the cloth at a tension on to a -steaming or boiling roller. The axle or core of the roller is hollow -and perforated; the cloth having been tightly wound round, steam is -forced through the perforations and right through the mass of tightly -wound cloth. The superheated steam sets the cloth. - - -=Crape Cloth, Plain.=--Plain Crape Cloth is an all-cotton fabric, -plain woven from hard-twisted cotton yarns and is free from any woven -or printed ornamentation. The nature of the hard-twisted yarn is -such that it readily shrinks or curls in length when not kept at a -high tension; this, together with subsequent finishing operations, -causes a considerable contraction to take place, resulting in an -uneven crinkled surface, which is the chief characteristic of Crape. -The crinkled surface in true Crape is obtained in several ways: -(1) by combination of materials; (2) by weave combination; (3) by -combination of (1) and (2); (4) by mechanical arrangements during -weaving; (5) by subjecting fabrics specially constructed to a special -chemical process during finishing. The cheaper grades of Crape have -the crinkled effect produced by suitably prepared rollers through -which the cloth is passed, and the crinkled effect in cotton Crapes -is not always the result of true Crape weaving, which relies on the -irregularity of the interweaving of threads to produce the Crape -effect. In width Crape seldom exceeds 30 inches, but is made up in -pieces of varying length. - -The name is also applied to a thin, transparent, "crisp" or crumpled -silk material, usually black, which is used in mourning, as well as -to a sort of thin worsted material of which the dress of the clergy -is sometimes made. - - -=Crash.=--A coarse plain-weave linen material in which the unevenness -of the weft yarns gives a rough surface to the cloth. There are -various grades of Crash, of which the coarser and more irregular -kinds are used for towelling, whilst the finer are dress materials. -Some Crash fabrics are woven from waste cotton. - - -=Cravenette.=--A waterproofing process applied to fabrics made of -silk, wool, or cotton. Not a fabric. - - -=Crêpe de Chine.=--A sheer silk having a minute crape effect in the -weave. The name in its correct acceptance applies to an all-silk -fabric, but there are also cotton and silk mixed fabrics which -bear this name, and at times even all-cotton fabrics have been so -designated--by the retailer, at least. All the materials which are -known by this name are of comparatively light weight. In practically -all these fabrics the lustre is imparted by the warp yarns, which -are likely to be of better silk than the filling. The filling yarns -are twisted harder than for ordinary cloth. The hard twisting of any -yarn will so curl up the fibres that they will not lie parallel and -so will not reflect light and give lustre. All-silk Crêpe de Chine -fabrics have a width of about 40 inches, whilst all-cotton and cotton -and silk mixtures average 27 inches in width. The all-cotton variety -is most often simply designated as Crêpe. - - -=Crêpe Meteor.=--A lustrous silk Crêpe. - - -=Crepoline.=--A fabric of a warp rib character in which the regular -order of the weave is so broken as to give a "rib crape" effect. - - -=Crépon.=--A dress fabric of silk or wool in which the design is -produced by using yarns having a different degree of stretch, so -that portions of the fabric are crisped, crinkled, or apparently -blistered, either irregularly or in set designs. - - -=Cretonne.=--This fabric is essentially a printed cotton fabric -woven either with a plain twill satin or oatmeal weave. The weft is -generally made from waste and is not very regular. Cretonnes, being -used mainly for curtains, hangings, or furniture coverings, are -generally printed with large, bold, and highly coloured designs. It -is woven with a bleached or grey cotton warp and filling in widths -ranging from 25 to 36 inches, and for curtains in widths up to 50 -inches. Their main feature is their large bright-coloured floral -designs, and their value depends to a great extent upon the artistic -merits of these designs. Sometimes a fancy weave or small brocaded -effect may occur in this class of fabric, but it is seldom met with, -and it is not representative of the true Cretonne fabric. Flax also -is said to be used in the manufacture of certain grades of Cretonnes, -without, however, taking them out of the class to which Cretonne -fabrics belong. - - -=Crimp Cloth, Plain, or Crimps.=--Crimps are plain-woven all-cotton -fabrics which have as their distinctive feature "cockled" striped -effects. These "crimped" or "cockled" stripes are produced by -dividing the warp threads into two separate "beams," one of which -is under greater tension than the other; that is to say, the warp -threads from one of the beams will be tight and the others slack. -These slack threads in the process of weaving are "taken up" more -rapidly and form the "crimped" stripes. Crimps may also be produced -by subjecting fabrics specially constructed to a special chemical -process during finishing, or by passing the material through suitable -rollers which will stretch the material in some places more than in -others and thus artificially produce the "cockled" stripe. Crimps are -made up in widths seldom exceeding 30 inches; the length of pieces, -however, may vary considerably. It is also known as Seersucker or -Crinkle. - - -=Crinkle, or Seersucker.=--Names given to striped fabrics of the -Crimp type. Seersucker originally meant a silk fabric. - - -=Cross-dyed.=--Cross-dyed goods may be described as fabrics woven -with black or coloured cotton warps and wool or worsted fillings and -afterwards dyed in the piece. This process is resorted to because -the warp and filling of a fabric woven with a cotton warp and a wool -filling, and then piece-dyed, would not become identical in colour, -as cotton and wool have not the same attraction for dye. Cross-dyeing -is generally used in mohair, alpaca, and lustre fabrics, and the -principal cloths in this classification are cotton warp figured -Melroses, Florentines, Glacés, Brilliantines, Lustres, Alpacas, and -Mohairs. _See_ Union Cloth. - - -=Crossover.=--This name is given to fabrics having stripes, of either -colour or weave effect, extending across the width of the cloth from -selvedge to selvedge. - - -=Cut Goods.=--Underwear made of either ribbed or flat webbing knitted -into long rolls and cut to the proper lengths and sections for -garments, after which the various parts are sewed together. - - -=Cuttling.=--Plaiting cloth in folds; used in the same sense as -lapping and folding, as opposed to rolling into bolts. - - -=Damask.=--The name Damask is technically applied to certain classes -of fabrics richly decorated with figures of foliage, fruits, scrolls, -and other ornamental patterns, usually of a large and elaborate -character. The weaves usually employed are twills (mostly satin -twills), and the figures in the fabric are made by alternately -exchanging warp for weft surface or _vice versa_. The materials -employed vary according to the purpose to which the fabrics are to -be applied. In the manufacture of upholstery cloth for hangings -and furniture covering, silk or worsted is used; while for table -covers, towels, napkins, etc., linen is generally employed, except -in the cheapest grades, when cotton is the material used. Damask was -originally applied only to silken fabrics whose designs were very -elaborately woven in colours and often with either gold or silver -threads. Although in the majority of Damask fabrics nothing but -satin twill weaves are employed (principally five and eight shaft), -very good effects are obtained by combining other weaves with satin -twills. Where Damasks are made all of one colour, as in white linen -table covers, the effect is given by the threads lying at right -angles to each other; the light falling upon them brings the pattern -in bold relief and makes it easily visible. - - -=Damassé.=--Applied to fabrics having a rich woven design. Similar to -Damask. - - -=Delaine.=--A term applied to plain-woven materials made "of wool." -The term probably originated in France and was applied there to -all plain-woven fabrics of light weight made of wool. As used at -present, the term may be combined with another name, and then purely -designates the nature of the material used in the manufacture of the -fabric, such as in Muslin Delaine. - - -=Denim.=--A stout cotton warp-faced twill cloth, generally woven -as a four-end twill. The warp is dyed either blue or brown before -weaving, whilst the weft is grey; they are both of coarse counts. -Denim, being a warp-faced material, has the warp on the surface; and -as the warp is made of coloured yarns, the cloth when woven shows -a solid coloured surface. The back of the fabric shows the bulk of -the weft threads, and these, being in the grey, give the back of the -cloth a distinctive lighter colour than the face of the cloth. Like -all warp-faced twill weave, the back of the cloth shows a plain-weave -effect. Denims have generally a white edging forming the selvedge; -they range from medium to heavy weight and are largely used in the -manufacture of workmen's overalls. - - -=Derby Rib.=--Applied to hosiery having six ribs on the face -alternating with three on the back. - - -=Diagonal.=--This name is applied to plain or figured twills of bold -character and originates in the twill effect, which, in relation to -the length of the fabric, runs in a diagonal direction. This twill -effect is produced by raising warp threads in groups in a progressive -order, the filling thus making them stand out in ridges or heavy -twill. - - -=Diaper.=--This term as applied to fabrics is used to describe two -distinct styles, the first of which consists of a small diamond -weave, while the second and true Diaper has rectangular figures or -dice interwoven on the Damask principle. In cotton fabrics it is -confined to diced or diamond reversible patterns on a small scale. -The weave is produced by the interchanging of warp and weft. In linen -fabrics, also, it is used to produce diced, diamond, and bird's-eye -patterns, and also small reversible Damask patterns. In some -districts the names Dorneck and Diced are used instead of Diaper. - - -=Dimity.=--A fine cotton fabric, plain or printed, having a cord -design running lengthways of the piece. The figures are often -arranged in alternate stripes and appear as if embossed, this effect -being due to the coarse weft "flushes." A cheaper kind is sometimes -made by arranging a reversed woven stripe of warp-face and weft-face -twill on a plain ground texture. - - -=Discharge Printing.=--In what is known as the "discharge" style -of printing, the cloth is first impregnated throughout its whole -substance by being either vat-dyed or pad-dyed; then the cloth is -dried, but the colour is not fixed. It is next passed through the -printing machine, and chemicals having the property of preventing -the development are printed on it, either alone or in combination -with other colouring matters. The ground colour is then developed by -steaming, and the printed pattern, white or coloured, is obtained -upon a coloured ground. - - -=Dobbie, or Dobby.=--This name is used to describe a type of loom -used for the production of certain classes of figured fabrics which -have a great many points of similarity with fabrics produced by means -of a Jacquard loom. The distinctive feature of a Dobby loom is the -series of lattices into which pegs are inserted, which control the -lifting of heald shafts in their proper order, so as to form the -shed, the heald shafts being pulled down again by means of springs -after having been lifted up to form a shed. - - -=Domestics.=--This term is used in the textile producing districts -of Great Britain to denote a class of medium and heavy weight grey -cloths, plain or twill woven, the better qualities of which are not -exported but used for home or domestic consumption. - - -=Domet.=--A strong, heavy, twill-woven cotton fabric resembling -Canton or Cotton Flannel, having a raised or napped surface on both -sides of the fabric. Domet may be either in the grey or white and is -a plain fabric. - - -=Double Cloth Weave.=--Where two single cloths are so woven that they -are combined together and make but one, it becomes known as a Double -Cloth and is the result of double-cloth weaving. - -Double Cloth is woven either to obtain two well-defined and finished -faces or to allow of a heavy material being made with a good quality -face and with the back made up of a cloth composed of inferior -material. This style of weaving is resorted to when the object is to -produce certain kinds of bulky or heavy overcoating. - - -=Double Sole, Heel, and Toe= means an extra thread added to hosiery -at points mentioned. Strictly speaking, "double" applies only to -single-thread goods. - - -=Double Warps.=--The name double warp is used to designate various -kinds of fabrics of good quality in which the warp threads consist -of two-fold yarn. Not to be mistaken as designating two-ply or -double-weave fabrics. - - -=Drap d'Été.=--Allied to Cashmere in weave, but heavier. - - -=Dresden.=--A small unobtrusive design in pastel colourings. - - -=Drills.=--Drills are strong, heavy, warp-faced fabrics woven from -yarns of good quality with a three (two warp and one weft), four -(three warp and one weft), or five (four warp and one weft) end twill -weave. When so woven they are known as Florentine Drills, of which -the khaki Drill so often met with in the Colonies is a good example. -Drills are also woven with a warp sateen weave which have--as the -twill effect is done away with--a smooth surface. - -Drills may be either linen or cotton fabrics, grey or white, bleached -or dyed, printed or striped. They average 40 yards in length per -piece and vary in weight from under 10 to 12¾ pounds or over per -piece and 31 inches in width. The name is from the Latin _trilex_, -of three threads, and is applied to a "three-thread twilled cloth." -Cotton Drill is a medium weight single cloth weighing from 4 to 6 -ounces and composed of all-cotton yarns, warp, and filling, and is -generally woven as a three-end twill-weave fabric. - - -=Drillette.=--This is a cotton fabric, finer and lighter in make than -the ordinary cotton Drill. Drillette of 30-inch width is imported -into Colonial markets, where it is largely used for linings and -pocketing. - - -=Duchesse.=--A satin fabric having the back woven in flat twills, -with a smooth surface. - - -=Duck.=--Duck is a heavy single-cloth cotton fabric made of coarse -two-ply yarn of plain weave. Lighter than Canvas, Duck is woven on -the same principle as Canvas. Duck on leaving the loom is finished -by washing and sizing, drying and pressing; this gives the finished -material a peculiar, hard, stiff feel. There are linen Ducks, but -they are specially designated as Linen Ducks, the term Duck being -used to denote the cotton variety. - -Better qualities of Duck, such as are used for tropical suitings, -are woven with a two-and-two matt dice or Hopsack weave. The term -"two-and-two" means that two weft threads pass alternately under and -over two warp threads, exactly as if a plain weave had been doubled -and the weave worked with two threads instead of one; the plain weave -is often termed a one-and-one weave. _See_ Cotton Duck. - - -=Dungaree.=--A stout cotton warp-faced twill cloth woven as a -four-end twill from coarse-count warp and weft. The only difference -between this fabric and a Denim is that in the latter the weft is -grey, whereas in a Dungaree both the warp and the weft have been dyed -prior to weaving. Dungaree, being a warp-faced material, has the warp -on the surface, and as both warp and weft are dyed yarns, the cloth, -when woven, shows a solid coloured surface. - - -=Duplex Prints.=--Fabrics which have one set of patterns printed -on the face of the cloth and another different pattern or design -printed on the reverse side are generally styled Duplex Prints. They -differ from fabrics which have been printed in colour on one face, -but in such a manner that the printed pattern has soaked through and -shows--though less sharply--on the back of the fabric. The Duplex -Print is the result of two distinct printing operations, first on one -side, then on the other side, of a fabric. This being the essential -condition for a Duplex Print, it follows that the two patterns need -not be different. Fabrics printed on one side only, but in such a way -that the design shows equally or nearly so on both sides, are not -Duplex Prints. - - -=Dyeing.=--This term is used to describe the colouring of materials -to enhance their value and appearance. There are five methods of -producing colour in the fabric:-- - - 1. Raw material dyeing. - 2. Yarn dyeing. - 3. Cross dyeing. - 4. Mixed dyeing. - 5. Piece dyeing. - -Unless the process is specially mentioned when a fabric is spoken -of as "dyed," it can be taken that what is meant is that the fabric -was "piece-dyed," _i.e._, dyed in the piece after being taken off -the loom. A dyed fabric is one which has been impregnated with some -colouring matter and this irrespective of the means adopted to so -impregnate it. Whether the fabric once woven has been allowed to-- - - 1º. Remain in a dye vat soaking up dye, or - - 2º. Whether it has been drawn through a series of troughs - containing dye (Continuous or Pad-dyeing process) with a view to - its absorbing the dye-- - -is immaterial. Where both sides of a fabric are equally coloured, and -where a fabric shows that there has been thorough saturation, that -fabric is said to be dyed. - - -=Dyed and Printed.=--This term is used to designate any fabric which -has been first impregnated with colouring matter either by being -vat-dyed or pad-dyed, and which in addition has been ornamented by -having certain designs impressed on the surface of the fabric in -either one or more colours. This is known as direct printing. Fabrics -may be dyed and printed by various styles of printing, such as -"Discharge," which consists of printing chemicals upon dyed fabrics -in designs, the chemicals causing the dye to come out wherever -applied, leaving the printed design either white or in a different -colour from that of the dyed ground. "Resist" or "Reserve" style of -printing is a process used to obtain white figures on a coloured -ground. In this process the designs are printed in substances that -are impervious to the dye into which the cloth is subsequently -placed. The cloth is dyed, but all parts covered by the resist agent -remain white. - - -=Dyed Alpacianos.=--This fabric is found grouped in the Revised -Import Tariff for the Trade of China under "Dyed Cottons." - -Alpacianos, as the name of a fabric, seems to have fallen into disuse -and is probably a very old name. Dyed Alpacianos would appear to be -an all-cotton fabric piece-dyed after leaving the loom, probably -averaging between 28 and 31 inches in width and about 25 yards in -length per piece. - -The particular weave of Alpacianos is not described in any modern -book of reference dealing with textiles. Names of fabrics vary, -come into fashion, and die out. Few connected with modern textile -industries could describe, say, fabrics such as "Durant," "Tammy," or -"Everlasting Webster," yet not so very long ago there were fabrics -currently sold under these names. - - -=Dyed Balzarines.=--The cotton variety of this somewhat ancient -fabric was an all-cotton light-weight open fabric resembling gauze, -approximating 30 inches in width and 30 yards in length per piece, -piece-dyed in solid colours after leaving the loom. _See_ Balzarines. - - -=Dyed Cambrics.=--Real Cambric is essentially a plain-woven linen -fabric of light weight and soft finish, but the kind of Cambric most -often met with is a cotton fabric of similar weave. Dyed Cotton -Cambrics are piece-dyed after leaving the loom and, like White -Cambrics, are generally finished with a smooth glazed surface. The -differentiation between Cotton Cambrics and Muslins is somewhat -difficult, as the term Cambric is often applied to what are in -reality Muslins. - - -=Dyed Corduroys (Cotton).=--The term is used to describe a pile-weave -ribbed cotton fabric which has been coloured in the piece with a view -to enhance its value and appearance. - - -=Dyed Cotton Lastings.=--This fabric is a plain all-cotton twill -or kindred weave material firmly woven from hard-twisted yarns and -piece-dyed after weaving. Lastings enter largely into the manufacture -of uppers for boots and shoes. - - -=Dyed Cotton Spanish Stripes.=--A plain-woven all-cotton fabric -woven with a plain weave, having both surfaces raised, giving the -fabric the general appearance of Flannelette; being a dyed fabric, -it is piece-dyed after leaving the loom. As a distinctive feature, -Spanish Stripes have a list or edge of different colour to the main -body of the fabric. The warp threads are finer and harder twisted -than the filling threads, which are soft and full to facilitate the -raising during the process of finishing. In width this fabric may -vary between 28 and 64 inches, and in length it averages 25 yards. A -similar fabric woven from dyed yarns would be a coloured woven fabric -and would not belong to the dyed cotton variety. - - -=Dyed Crimp Cloth.=--An all-cotton fabric having the distinctive -"cockled" striped effect of Crimp Cloth. This cockled effect is -produced by greater tension in some of the warp threads than in -others. Dyed Crimp Cloth is piece-dyed after leaving the loom and is -distinguishable from coloured woven Crimp Cloth, which is woven from -coloured yarns. This material seldom exceeds 30 inches in width, the -length per piece varies. - - -=Dyed Drills.=--A heavy twill-woven all-cotton fabric, the weave of -which is described under "Drills," which has been dyed in the piece, -_i.e._, impregnated with a Uniform colour over its whole surface. - - -=Dyed Figured Cottons.=--Under this heading may be grouped all -such fabrics which (_a_) are made of all cotton, (_b_) are figured -by having any design, large or small, woven or embossed, on their -surface, (_c_) are dyed in any colour, and (_d_) are not otherwise -enumerated. The fabrics coming under this heading include both -fabrics which have not been subjected to any special process of -finishing and those which have been so treated, irrespective of the -style of finish. The ribs or reps of such fabrics, which are known as -"Reps" or "Ribs," do not in themselves constitute figures. Printing -produces a style of ornamentation which does not rightly belong to -this class of goods, in which it must only be the result of weaving -or embossing. - - -=Dyed Figured Cotton Italians.=--This name is used to designate an -all-cotton fabric having the characteristic even, close, smooth -surface of the plain Italian Cloth, but which, in addition, has -had its surface ornamented with any figures, floral or geometrical -effects, etc., this figuring having been produced either by means -of extra threads, or by combining the warp and weft threads, or by -having the pattern or outline of the design impressed, stamped, or -embossed in the fabric, which, as it is a "dyed" fabric, has been -coloured after leaving the loom. - - -=Dyed Figured Cotton Lastings.=--This fabric is essentially an -all-cotton twill or kindred weave material firmly woven from -hard-twisted yarn, which has been figured or ornamented in the -weaving by the introduction of a small floral or geometrical design. -The fabric, being a "dyed fabric," is piece-dyed. Like Plain -Lastings, this material enters largely into the manufacture of uppers -for boots and shoes. - - -=Dyed Figured Cotton Reps.=--This name is used to designate an -all-cotton material which is primarily a Rep fabric. It combines the -prominent reps or ribs running transversely across the face of the -cloth, which is the distinctive feature of a Plain Rep fabric, with -certain small figures, floral or geometrical effects, etc., which -are introduced for the purpose of ornamentation. This figuring may -be produced either by means of extra threads on the surface of the -cloth, by the mode of interlacing the warp and the weft threads on -the surface of the cloth, or by having the pattern or outline of -the design impressed or stamped in the fabric, which, as it is a -dyed fabric, has been coloured after leaving the loom. This kind of -material averages 32 inches in width and 32 yards in length per piece. - - -=Dyed Figured Ribs.=--This name is used to designate a fabric which -is primarily a rib material having the characteristic rep or rib -running from selvedge to selvedge, or, in some cases, lengthways of -the fabric, but which, in addition, has had its surface ornamented -with any figures, floral or geometrical designs. This ornamentation -constitutes the figuring and is produced either by means of extra -threads or by having the pattern or outline of the design impressed, -stamped, or embossed in the fabric, which, as it is a dyed fabric, -has been coloured after leaving the loom. A Dyed Figured Cotton Rib -would be an all-cotton material with an average width of 32 inches -and averaging 32 yards to the piece. - - -=Dyed Fustians.=--Fustians embrace two classes of finished goods, -some of which are characterised in finishes by a nap raised on -the fabric, such as Moleskins, Beaverteens, etc. The other class -comprises cut pile fabrics, variously known in the trade by -distinctive names, such as Velveteen and Corduroy. Fustians are -essentially all-cotton fabrics. Dyed Fustians are piece-dyed fabrics -and not woven from coloured yarns. - - -=Dyed Imitation Turkey Reds.=--The fabric of which this class of -goods is an imitation is generally a twill-faced all-cotton cloth -piece-dyed with a cochineal dye, which is fast to light and washing. -The Dyed Imitation Turkey Red is similar in construction of fabric, -but depends for its colouring upon a chemical or synthetic dye which, -while it resembles cochineal, has not the same qualities of fastness. - -Dyed Imitation Turkey Reds are piece-dyed fabrics averaging in width -32 inches and in length 25 yards per piece. Fabrics coming under this -heading are invariably plain, _i.e._, unornamented either through -weave combination, printing, or embossing. - - -=Dyed in the Piece or Piece-dyed.=--These terms virtually explain -themselves. When a fabric is impregnated with a uniform colour over -its whole surface it is said to be dyed in the piece or piece-dyed. - -Piece-dyeing is open to produce cloud spots, stains, etc., which -would not appear if the yarn had been dyed previously to being -woven, for in that case even if the yarn had in parts got stained it -would not show as a clearly defined stain in the fabric once woven. -Piece-dyed fabrics may sometimes be distinguished from yarn-dyed -fabrics by unravelling threads of each kind. In the case of yarn-dyed -fabrics, the dyestuff has penetrated through the yarn, while in the -case of piece-dyed fabrics the dye-stuff has not the same chance of -penetrating yarn as completely. The term "dyed in the grey" (_see -under_ Union Cloth) has a similar meaning to "dyed in the piece" or -"piece-dyed." - - -=Dyed Lawns= are plain-woven light-weight cotton fabrics of soft -finish which have been piece-dyed, _i.e._, impregnated with a uniform -colour over their whole surface after leaving the loom. They vary -in weight from 1¼ to 2¼ ounces per square yard and in width from -27 to 46 inches. They answer to descriptions of White Lawns (which -see), and differ from them only in regard to the fact that they are -piece-dyed. - - -=Dyed Lenos.=--This fabric or class of fabric is an all-cotton -material woven with a gauze and Leno weave and subsequently -piece-dyed. The description of Leno fabrics given in a United States -Government publication reads: "A term frequently used where various -weaves or combination of weaves also have warp threads crossing -over one or more warp threads instead of lying parallel to one -another throughout the fabric. The warp threads which thus appear -in a zig-zag way either on the surface or closely interwoven in the -fabric, are, in addition to interlacing with the filling threads, -also crossing their neighbouring warp threads that continue in a -parallel line with the selvedges." - -Leno fabrics generally show stripe effects, the exception to this -being the All-over Leno, which resembles in weave the ordinary -Cellular Cloth. - - -=Dyed Leno Brocade.=--This term is used to designate a fabric woven -in the Leno style, that is to say, in a combination of "gauze -weaving" and any other style of weave, and the term Brocade shows -that it is a figured fabric having a figure chiefly constructed by -weft threads floating on the surface of the material. As in this -class of fabric the threads are not dyed prior to weaving, the term -"dyed" shows that the material has been dyed after it has left the -loom. _See also_ Lenos. - - -=Dyed Muslins.=--Dyed Muslin is an all-cotton fabric of light weight, -plain woven, which has been piece-dyed, _i.e._, impregnated with -a uniform colour over its whole surface. There is a difficulty in -describing Muslins, for the term Muslin, according to one Government -publication, is "a generic term for thin plain-woven cotton cloth. -The name, however, is frequently used in conjunction with such names -as dotted, fancy, figured, spot, check, Swiss, etc., which in each -case would denote some combination weave, or as containing stripes or -checks, but the fabric still preserving a light weight." From this, -however, it seems clear that a Muslin is a plain non-figured fabric -of light weight. - - -=Dyed Plain Cottons.=--Under this heading may be grouped all such -fabrics which (_a_) are made of all cotton, (_b_) have a surface -which has not been ornamented by the introduction of any small -figures, floral or geometrical designs, whether produced by means of -extra threads or by the mode of interlacing the warp and weft threads -on the surface of the cloth or by having the pattern or outline of -the design impressed or stamped in the fabric, (_c_) are dyed in any -colour, and (_d_) are not otherwise enumerated. The fabrics coming -under this heading include both fabrics which have not been subjected -to any special process of finishing and those which have been so -treated, irrespective of the style of finish. - - -=Dyed Plain Cotton Italians.=--The fabric answering to this -description is primarily an all-cotton Italian Cloth whose surface -does not show any ornamentation produced either by weaving, printing, -embossing, or any other process. The fact that the fabric has been -specially finished, to improve its appearance, by being mercerised, -schreinered, gassed, silk or electric finished, does not alter its -nature of a "plain" cloth. The fabric, being a "dyed" fabric, is one -which has been coloured after leaving the loom. As Italian Cloths are -generally woven from a black warp and grey weft and, after weaving, -dyed in the piece, they are really "cross-dyed." - - -=Dyed Real Turkey Reds.=--Turkey Reds are a class of staples whose -salient distinctive feature is the fact that the dye used in their -manufacture is cochineal dye. Real Turkey Reds are absolutely -fast dyed, the colour will not run when washed, and it will not -appreciably fade when exposed to the action of the sun. - -Turkey Reds are piece-dyed, that is to say, the cotton fabric is -woven, generally a twill-faced cloth, and the piece is dyed. It is -not woven of yarn previously dyed. There does exist a yarn dyed with -turkey red; this, however, is principally used for weaving in to the -ends of pieces of White Shirting or Sheeting certain distinguishing -red weft threads, markings that are placed there by the manufacturer -of the grey goods (1) to facilitate recognition of his goods when -they come back from the bleacher, (2) to denominate quality of goods -by acting as a distinctive mark, (3) to prevent the piece being cut -at either end and the part cut off stolen whilst at the bleachers. -This yarn is also used for markings which are to withstand washing -without running. The cost of dyeing the grey or white fabric into a -Turkey Red is often greater than the original value of the fabric. - - -=Dyed Reps= are fabrics which have as a predominant feature a rep or -rib running transversely across the face of the cloth from selvedge -to selvedge and which have been piece-dyed after leaving the loom. -Even without the term "dyed" being used the term Rep by itself would -generally be used to designate a dyed plain cotton fabric of the Rep -variety. For particulars of weave, _see under_ Rep. - - -=Dyed Ribs.=--Fabrics which are either warp or weft ribbed, _i.e._, -having ribs running either from selvedge to selvedge as in warp ribs, -or lengthways of the material as in weft ribs, and which have been -piece-dyed after leaving the loom. For particulars of distinctive -weave, _see under_ Warp Ribs and Weft Ribs. - - -=Dyed Sheetings.=--It would appear that when a true Cotton Sheeting -fabric has been dyed it is no longer known as a "Sheeting," and -this is supported by the remark under the heading Sheetings which -appears in a United States Government publication to the effect that -"should a Sheeting be dyed or printed, it is never sold as Sheeting, -but under some other name." A Dyed Sheeting would, of course, be a -stout all-cotton fabric answering to the description of a Bolton -Sheeting, woven from coarse yarns, as a four-shaft two-and-two twill, -and measuring in width up to 120 inches; but the fabric most likely -to be described as a Dyed Sheeting is the narrower variety, which -is most often plain woven, measuring 36 inches by 40 to 80 yards, -and slightly heavier than Shirtings of the same measurements which, -subsequent to weaving, has been piece-dyed. - - -=Dyed Shirtings.=--The term in its narrower sense is used to -designate what is virtually an all-cotton cloth, woven with a plain -weave and having the warp and weft approximately equal in number of -threads and counts, which has been coloured by being piece-dyed after -weaving. The actual fabric, apart from the dyeing, is that of a Grey -Shirting or Grey Sheeting, which are more fully described under their -respective headings. - - -=Dyed T-Cloths.=--Piece-dyed all-cotton plain-woven fabric, woven -from low-quality yarns, generally put up in 24-yard lengths. - - -=Dyed Velvet Cords (Cotton).=--This fabric differs from Dyed -Velveteen Cords only as regards the length of the pile, which is -longer or deeper in Dyed Velvet Cords than in Dyed Velveteen Cords. -The difference between this fabric and Corduroys is that Corduroys -have perfect half-round regular pile ribs, separated by a dividing -line between each stripe or pile rib, showing both warp and filling -threads, whilst Velvet Cords have no such dividing line. - - -=Dyed Velveteen Cords (Cotton).=--Like the plain Velveteen, this -fabric is essentially an all-cotton pile fabric in which the -distinguishing effect is formed by the points of the fibres in the -filling yarns, termed the pile, being presented to the vision, and -not the sides of the yarns as in the majority of cases. The cords are -produced by a process of cutting away the pile so as to form raised -cord-like corrugations running lengthways of the piece. Being a dyed -fabric, it is coloured uniformly all over the piece in some solid -colour. It differs from Dyed Velvet Cords only as regards the length -of pile, which in the Velveteen variety is shorter. The difference -between this class of material and a Corduroy is that Corduroy has a -dividing line between each stripe or cord of pile, showing both warp -and filling threads, whilst Velveteen Cords have no such dividing -line. - - -=Embossed Velvet (Cotton).=--The term Cotton Velvet is generally -recognised in the manufacturing and distributing trade to be a -misnomer, and the material or fabric which would appear to come under -this classification is in reality an Embossed Velveteen, which see. - - -=Embossed Velveteen (Cotton).=--This term is used to designate an -all-cotton pile-weave fabric generally woven as a weft-pile weave, -the pile surface, consisting of threads or fibres in the filling -yarn which forms the pile, standing up at right angles to the back -of the fabric. The distinctive feature of this class of fabric is -the embossed design or pattern, which is essentially an indented -ornamentation produced by pressure and heat. The embossing machine -for giving an indented ornamentation to Velvet or Velveteen and other -fabrics has engraved copper rollers, which are heated by enclosed -red-hot irons or series of gas jets when operating on dampened goods. -The engraved rollers have designs in intaglio, which confer a cameo -ornamentation upon the fabric being embossed. - - -=Embroideries.=--When applied to woven fabrics this name is used to -designate a fine plain-woven cloth made from fine yarns and used for -embroidery purposes. Generally a linen fabric. - - -=End.=--When the word "end" is used in connexion with weaving it -signifies the warp threads, while each filling or weft thread is -called a "pick." When used to designate a class of twill-weaving such -as "a five-end twill," it refers to the total number of warp and weft -threads in the twill pattern; thus, "a five-end twill" designates -the interlacing of four warp and one weft. Under "Twill Weave" will -be found the generally recognised ways of arranging the order of -interweaving. - - -=English Foot.=--A stocking having two seams in the foot, one on each -side of the sole. - - -=Eolienne.=--A sheer silk and wool material. Also in silk and cotton. - - -=Éponge.=--A French term for Sponge Cloth. - - -=Equestrienne Tights.=--Tight-fitting knitted drawers for women's -use, made of ribbed cloth, either with or without feet. - - -=Étamine.=--French name for Bolting or Sifting Cloth, generally made -of silk yarn and used for the purpose of sifting flour. The term is -used in America to designate mesh or net weaves. - -Étamine, though often made of silk, is found also in wool, cotton, -linen, etc. Plain weave and open-work structure are its salient -features. It is equally used for sifting powdered solids and -filtering liquids. - - -=Extract= is a comprehensive term used to indicate a special class -of fibres which have been obtained by "pulling" or beating to pieces -material which may have been milled or unmilled, but which was partly -composed of cotton, this cotton being got rid of or destroyed by the -treatment which is known as carbonising. - - -=Extracted.=--Goods in which the pattern has been printed, first -applying the design with a material which, after dyeing, permits the -colour, as it affects the design, to be washed out or "extracted." - - -=Façonné.=--Having a figure or design raised on the surface. - - -=Faille.=--A soft flat-ribbed silk. - - -=Fancies.=--Fancy is a term used to designate those fabrics which are -not woven in the same way year after year, but which show variations -in weave, colour, or both colour and weave. The principal Fancies -of the dress goods variety are Brocades, Cuspettes, Meliores, -Hopsacking, Stripes, Checks, Plaids, Mélanges, and Mixtures. - - -=Fents.=--When a full-sized piece of cloth is found to be imperfectly -woven in parts or damaged through stains, etc., and unsaleable as a -whole piece, it is cut up into short lengths; these short lengths -are called "fents." The name also is applied to short lengths cut -from piece ends and is equivalent to the term "remnant." The value of -fents is much less per yard than for similar cloth in the full piece. - - -=Figured.=--When used with reference to textiles the term "figured" -means that for the purpose of ornamentation certain extra -threads--known as figuring threads--have been introduced on the -surface of a plain ground structure or on other ground structural -weaves, and afterwards allowed to lie loosely or "float" underneath -the ground cloth structure. When the extra threads introduced run -lengthways in the piece the figured fabric produced is known as an -"extra warp" figured cloth. When, similarly, the figured effect is -obtained by the introduction of extra threads running across the -face of the material, the figured fabric produced is known as an -"extra weft" figured cloth. The most elaborate effects, however, -are produced by means of the extra warp effects. A cloth may be -figured without the addition of any extra warp or weft thread but by -combination of weave. - - -=Figured Muslin.=--When an ordinary plain-weave fabric of the Muslin -variety has been ornamented by means of combination of weave or an -extra thread, whilst still retaining the characteristic light weight, -etc., of the true Muslin fabric, it is known as a Figured Muslin. -Unless specially designated, a Figured Muslin would be an all-cotton -fabric. - - -=Figure Weaving.=--When complicated and elaborate designs are -required the cloth must be woven with the aid of a Jacquard, which -is an apparatus for automatically selecting warp threads and -manipulating them to facilitate the passage of the filling. This -style of weave produces figured effects on the face of the fabric and -is generally used to produce patterns of great width. Such figured -and elaborate designs are classed under the name of Jacquards. - - -=Filled Cotton Cloth.=--This form of cloth has the interstices -between the threads filled with glue, china clay, white lead, chalk, -plaster of paris, glauber salts, glucose, or other filling substances. - - -=Filling.=--This term is given to the process of adding weight to -a fabric by subjecting it to an operation, whereby it will have -been made to absorb certain chemicals or substances. The principal -filling agents are zinc chloride, magnesium sulphate, magnesium -chloride, glue, gelatine, dextrine, starch, and water glass (alkali -silicate). The term "filling" is also used to designate the material -used in weighting the fabric and has the same value as "loading" or -"weighting." - -When the word "filling" is used in connexion with weaving it always -signifies the weft threads, each of which is also called a "pick." - - -=Flannel (Woollen).=--The true Woollen Flannel should be an all-wool -fabric, into the making of which no fibres other than wool enter. -Woven with either a plain or twill weave, Flannel is a soft-finished -material, which, in the better grades, should be of a non-shrinking -character. When a very small percentage of cotton is found in -so-called all-wool Flannel, it is sometimes due to cotton having -remained in the machines used for the carding of the wool prior to -making it into yarn. In some countries as much as 1 per cent. of -cotton is allowed in an all-wool Flannel. When a higher percentage is -found the fabric is no longer considered an all-wool Flannel. When -cotton is made to form part of Flannel it is scribbled or carded -with the wool to increase the strength of the thread and improve -its spinning properties. Such yarns are known as Carded Unions and -when woven will produce a Woollen Flannel, which is distinct from an -all-wool Flannel. Inasmuch as the term "woollen" is commonly used in -opposition to "all-wool," and that it is recognised in England that -wastes, shoddy, and blends of material other than wool are referred -to as "woollen," the term Woollen Flannel is applicable to a fabric -that is not an all-wool material. - - -=Flannelette.=--Like Cotton Flannel, this fabric is woven from soft -mule-spun yarn, which is more suitable for a raised material than a -ring-spun yarn. Flannelette may be either plain or twill woven and -may be either piece-dyed or woven with coloured warp and weft yarns -to form either stripes or checks. - -Flannelette is a cloth produced to imitate Flannel and has, owing -to its raised surface, a "woolly" feel. By being subjected to a -special treatment, Flannelette can be rendered "fireproof"; if -untreated, it is a highly inflammable material. The better qualities -of Flannelette are distinguished from the lower grades by the -former being more closely woven in the warp, and the raised nap is -shorter in the better grades. Flannelettes are sometimes printed, -in which case they would be more correctly described as "Printed -Flannelettes," the ordinary Flannelette of commerce not being as a -rule "printed." Whereas in certain countries it is not legal to sell -as "pure wool Flannel" a material containing cotton, there is nothing -to prevent a manufacturer from selling as Flannelette a material -in whose composition a certain amount of wool may enter. Unlike -Cotton Flannel, which from its very name shows that the material is -of cotton, and by inference cotton only, the term Flannelette may -not always designate an all-cotton material, although by general -acceptance in the trade Flannelette should be an all-cotton fabric. - - -=Flat Underwear.=--Goods knitted in plain stitch. - - -=Fleece-lined.=--Applied to a variety of heavy-weight undergarments -knitted with three threads--namely, face yarn, backing yarn, and a -third thread of yarn tying the face and back together. The heavy nap -or fleece is produced by running the cloth through wire rolls, called -brushers. The term "fleece-lined" is often misapplied to ordinary -single-thread underwear which has been run through the brushing -machine for the purpose of raising a light nap on the inner surface. - - -=Floconné.=--Having small flakes, in white or colour. - - -=Florentine Drills.=--When a Drill is woven with a twill weave it -is known as a Florentine Drill, to distinguish it from Satin Drill, -which is woven with a warp-faced sateen weave. - - -=Folded Yarn.=--Folded Yarn is produced by twisting together two or -more single yarns. When two single threads are twisted together the -Folded Yarn produced would be called a "two-fold." If the single -yarn used in producing the "two-fold" yarn was of 40's count (that -is to say, of yarn of which it took 40 hanks of 840 yards to weigh 1 -pound), the "two-fold" yarn produced would really become equivalent -to 20's count (that is to say, it would take 20 hanks to weigh 1 -pound); however, it would not be referred to as being a 20's count, -but as a two-fold forties and designated 2/40's. All Folded Yarns are -designated by two sets of figures separated by a line, which shows on -one side the number of threads folded together and on the other the -"count" of the single threads thus folded together. By dividing the -number of the single threads into the counts the actual number of -hanks of the Folded Yarn per pound is ascertained thus:-- - - Two-fold 40's, written 2/40 = 20 folded hanks per pound. - Three-fold 30's, " 3/30 = 10 " " " " - Three-fold 60's, " 3/60 = 20 " " " " - Four-fold 60's, " 4/60 = 15 " " " " - Four-fold 120's, " 4/120 = 30 " " " " - -All Folded Yarn is not composed of single threads of the same count. -Where such Folded Yarns are met with, and when it is desired to -ascertain the number of hanks of such Folded Yarn per pound, the -simplest way to proceed is to take the highest count and divide it -first by itself and the other counts in succession, then divide the -sum of the various quotients into the highest count, and the answer -will be hanks per pound:-- - - 30 ÷ 30 = 1 - 30 ÷ 20 = 1½ - -- - 2½ ) 30 - -- - 12 Answer. - -- - -In folding yarn part of the length of the original threads folded -is taken up in the twist; hence, when folded, they will no longer -measure the regulation 840 yards per hank, but slightly under. - - -=Foulard.=--A soft twilled silk, usually printed. - - -=French Foot.=--A hosiery term meaning having only one seam, and that -in the centre of the sole. - - -=Full Regular= (sometimes called Looped).--A term applied to hosiery -or underwear in which the seams have been connected by hand knitting. - - -=Full-fashioned.=--A term used to designate hosiery knitted in a -flat web, which is shaped by the machine so as to fit the foot, leg, -or body. The webs, or sections, are sewn together to form hosiery, -underwear, etc. - - -=Fustian.=--This name is given to designate low grades of cotton -fabrics woven with a pile weave, such as Cotton Velvets, Velveteens, -Corduroys, Moleskins, Cordings, etc. Fustian is also applied to such -fabrics when they are made in a combination of cotton and flax or -other vegetable fibre. It is more used as a generic term designating -a class of fabrics than to designate one particular kind of fabric. -One class of Fustians has a raised "nap" on one or both sides, and -includes Cantoons or Diagonals, which have a pronounced weft twill on -the face side and are used for riding breeches. - - -=Galatea.=--A cotton fabric having coloured stripes; the weave is -usually a three-shaft, but sometimes a four-shaft, warp twill weave. -The stripes may be either simply coloured, whilst retaining the -twill weave, or they may be plain woven as well as coloured. This -material is often used for washing uniforms for nurses and hospital -attendants. The weave of Galatea is similar to that of Jean, Nankeen, -or Regatta Twill. - - -=Gauge.=--Applied to the number of meshes or wales to the inch in -underwear or hosiery. For example, a 16-gauge fabric will have 16 -wales or ribs to the inch. - - -=Gauze Weave.=--In gauze weaving all the warp threads are not -parallel to each other, but are made to intertwist more or less -amongst themselves. This style of weaving produces light, open -fabrics allowing the introduction of many lace-like combinations. The -warp is double, one set being the usual or ground warp and the other -the "douping," or warp that intertwines itself on the ground warp. -Gauze weaving produces fabrics which are peculiar for their openness, -lightness, and strength. When gauze is combined with plain weaving it -is styled "Leno." - - -=Gingham.=--Gingham is an all-cotton fabric, always woven with a -plain weave--a yarn-dyed cotton cloth in stripes or checks. It is -woven in various grades, having from 50 to 76 ends per inch in the -reed and of 1/26's to 1/40's cotton yarn in both warp and weft. -It is a washing fabric made in both checks and plaid patterns, -into which a great variety of colour combinations are introduced. -Ginghams are made with from two colour warp and filling to eight -colour in warp and six in filling. During the finishing process the -loom-state fabric is sewed end on piece to piece until a continuous -length of cloth of several hundred yards is obtained (this is done -to facilitate handling). It is damped by a sprinkler to make it more -readily take up the starch size with which it is liberally treated. -One variety of Gingham known as Madras Gingham is distinctly a -Shirting fabric. Ginghams, when having a highly variegated colouring, -are described as Checks. - - -=Glacé.=--Originally applied to a fabric having a glossy, lustrous -surface. Now often applied to "shot" silks, that is, plain weaves -wherein the warp and filling are of different colours. - - -=Granité.=--A weave in which the yarns are so twisted as to create a -pebbled surface. - - -=Grenadine.=--A somewhat elastic term used to describe an openwork, -diaphanous material of silk, wool, or cotton. - - -=Grey, in the Grey, or Grey Cloth.=--These terms are used to -designate fabrics that are in the loom state and that have been woven -from yarn that was neither bleached nor dyed. A Grey Shirting would -no longer be called a Grey Shirting after it had been bleached. In -the woollen industry the term "grey" is applied to the web in its -loom state previous to its being put through the various necessary -processes to make it into a finished cloth. - - -=Grey Drills.=--Grey Cotton Drills are all-cotton medium and heavy -weight single cloths woven from unbleached yarns as a three-shaft -twill (two warp and one weft) which have not been bleached, dyed, or -printed from the time they left the loom. Varying in weight according -to quality, they are, however, generally put up in pieces measuring -31 inches in width by 40 yards in length. They are more fully -described under Drills. - -The Pepperell Drill is a Grey Drill of superior quality made from -high-class yarns and exceedingly well woven. - - -=Grey Jeans.=--This name is given to an all-cotton fabric woven as a -three-shaft twill having either (_a_) each weft thread passing over -one and under two warp threads, or (_b_) each weft thread passing -over two and under one warp thread, the warp and weft intersections -traversing one thread and one pick further from their respective -positions each time a pick of weft is inserted. - -When woven as a warp-faced twill fabric from strong yarns, the cloth -is often called a Drill, and is used for suitings, boot linings, -corseting, etc; when woven from lighter yarns as a medium-weight -weft-faced twill fabric, the cloth is largely used for linings. In -width it varies from 28 and under to 31 or more inches and in length -from 30 to 40 yards per piece. A "Grey" Jean is a Jean in the loom -state, _i.e._, which has not been bleached by being treated with -bleaching powders, etc. - - -=Grey Sheeting.=--There are two distinct varieties of Grey Sheeting. -The first kind is used for bed sheeting and is a stout cotton cloth -woven from coarse yarns, usually in a four-shaft two-and-two twill -weave, and having a width of as much as 120 inches. The weave of -this material being a twill weave having an equal number of warp -and weft threads to the inch, the twill lines or diagonal produced -will be at an angle of 45 degrees to a line drawn across the width -of the material. This diagonal effect is produced by the warp and -weft intersections traversing one thread and one pick further from -their respective positions each time a pick or weft is inserted. -This kind of Sheeting is known as Bolton Sheeting, which is a grey -material, _i.e._, unbleached. In length the piece may measure up to -80 yards. The second kind of Sheeting is Waste Sheeting, made from -waste and condenser wefts, _i.e._, wefts made from certain waste -cotton which accumulates during the process of spinning yarn. This -waste is treated by special machinery, which prepares it and spins -it into a full, level, and soft yarn, which is used for weft in the -weaving of Sheetings. Waste Sheetings are woven like Bolton Sheeting, -with the exception of the lower qualities, which are often plain or -calico woven. The lower grades of Grey Sheeting are often simply grey -Calico cloths of about 36 inches in width and resembling very closely -Grey Shirtings, the only difference being that they are slightly -heavier in the yarn than the ordinary Grey Shirting. Grey Sheeting is -generally made up into pieces of from 40 to 80 yards in length and -varying in weight according to count of yarn used. - - -=Grey Shirting.=--A Grey Shirting is an unbleached cotton cloth -woven with a plain weave and having the warp and weft approximately -equal in number of threads and counts; the fabric has a plain, even -surface, which, when the threads are evenly spaced, is said to be -well "covered." Grey Shirting, a staple import into the Eastern -markets, is made up in pieces measuring from 36 to 40 yards in -length, a width of from 36 to 45 inches, and weighing from 7 to 11 -pounds and over per piece, according to the count of the yarn and -the amount of size used. This class of fabric has the warp threads -heavily sized. The exact difference between Grey Shirtings and -certain grades of Grey Sheetings is at times non-apparent. Again, a -Grey Shirting may be termed a Calico, which in the trade has become a -general term used to designate practically any cotton cloth coarser -than Muslin. - - -=Grey T-Cloths.=--All-cotton plain-woven unbleached fabric of low -quality and heavily sized yarns nearly always put up in 24-yard -lengths. The name is said to be derived from the mark @T@ of the -original exporters. - - -=Grosgrain.=--A silk fabric having a small ribbed effect from -selvedge to selvedge. When the rib runs lengthways the fabric is -known as a Millerayes. - - -=Habit Cloth (Woollen).=--An all-wool cloth similar to Medium, Broad, -and Russian Cloth. Average width, 54 to 74 inches. In the better -grades it is a high-priced fabric generally used for riding habits. -Met with in dark shades of green or else in black. - - -=Habutai.=--A plain-weave silk, of smooth and even texture, -originally made in Japan on hand looms. - - -=Hair-cord Muslin.=--A plain-weave fabric having stripes or checks -formed by coarse threads, which stand out in a clearly defined manner. - - -=Hand Looms and Power Looms.=--The difference between these two -kinds of looms lies in the fact that in the former (hand loom) the -weaving is the result of the loom being worked and controlled by hand -and foot, whereas in the power loom, whether belt driven or driven -by electric motor, the power transmitted to the loom works all the -essential parts, which are:-- - - 1. Warp beam. - 2. Heddles. - 3. Shuttle. - 4. Reed or beater-in. - 5. Cloth roll. - -When a power loom has been suitably tuned up, _i.e._, timed so that -the various movements necessary for the forming of the "shed" and the -passing of the shuttle and the beating-in occur in the right sequence -and at a correct interval of time, the weaver (who, in the case of -power looms, is oftener called the overlooker) only has to attend to -the broken warp threads or replenishing of the weft shuttle. With a -hand loom the weaver controls the heddles which form the shed, throws -the shuttle carrying the weft thread through the shed, and as fast as -each filling thread is interlaced with the warp beats it in close to -the previous one by means of a reed which is pulled by hand towards, -and recedes from, the cloth after each passage of the shuttle. This -is done to make the cloth firm. The movement of the reed in the -hand-power loom (or, more correctly, in the hand and foot power loom) -being controlled by the weaver and not mechanically, accounts for -irregularity in firmness of weave not found in fabrics woven on a -power loom. - - -=Handle.=--This term is used either as a "wool term" in connexion -with wool or as a general textile term in connexion with fabrics. -As a wool term it refers or designates all the attributes which -determine quality, _i.e._, softness, fineness, length, and -elasticity--noticeable when wool is judged by the feel. Easier to -define than to acquire, "handle" also enters into the judging of -woven fabrics. It is then used to denote the hardness, harshness, -softness, smoothness, etc., which similarly are factors of quality -and which are often best appreciated by the sense of touch. - - -=Harvard Shirting.=--This style of Shirting is generally recognised -by its broken twill effect, which may be combined with plain -stripes, small diamond patterns, etc., woven from dyed yarns. The -salient feature of Harvard Shirtings is the above effect in different -colours. The ground weave is generally a two-and-two twill. - - -=Henrietta.=--A soft, lustrous, twilled fabric of wool; similar to a -Cashmere, but finer and lighter. - - -=Herring-bone.=--A binding often used in facing the neck and front -opening of undershirts. Also applied to the stitching which is made -to cover the edge of the split sole in hosiery. Used in connexion -with textiles, it is applied to striped effects produced by -alternating a left-hand and a right-hand twill-weave stripe. - - -=Hessian.=--A strong, coarse, plain-woven packing or wrapping cloth -made from jute or hemp yarns. A standard make of this material weighs -10½ ounces to the yard, is 40 inches wide, and averages 13 shots per -inch. - - -=Hog, Or Hoggett Wool=, is another name for lambs' wool; it is -the product of the first clipping of the young sheep and can be -distinguished by the fact that its ends are pointed, whereas -subsequent clippings yield wether wool with blunt and thickened ends. - - -=Honeycomb.=--This designates a style of weave and not an actual -fabric. Marked ridges and hollows, which cause the surface of -the fabric to resemble that of a honeycomb, are the salient -characteristics of this style of weave. The term is also applied -to leno weaves when consecutive crossing ends cross in opposite -directions. - - -=Huckaback.=--This name designates a class of weave mainly used in -the weaving of towels or Towelling, which combines a small design -with a plain ground. The short floats of warp and weft and the plain -ground of these weaves give a rough surface combined with a firm -structure. The small design entering into this class of weave varies, -but is always a geometrical design and not floral. - - -=Imitation Rabbit Skin.=--Generally an all-cotton pile-weave fabric -having a long pile, which has not the same amount of lustre as -either a silk or mohair pile, being duller in appearance. This kind -of fabric may be distinguished from a silk or mohair pile material -by the fact that its pile will crush more readily than either. Its -pile will not spring back into place readily, more especially when -the pile is long. Generally 48 to 50 inches wide and 60 yards long, -it is shipped on frames, on which it is fastened by a series of -hooks. These hooks hold the material by the selvedges, which are made -specially strong. Two 60-yard frames are generally packed in one box -or case. - - -=Ingrain.=--A term for knitted goods applied to raw material or yarn -dyed before knitting. - - -=Irishes.=--This generic name is applied to linen fabrics, which are -a speciality of Ireland. Irishes have been imitated in cotton, and -when such a fabric is met with it should be designated as a Cotton -Irish. The term Irishes would cover such fabrics as Irish Cambric, -Irish Duck, and Irish Linen. - - -=Irish Cambric.=--This fabric, like all true Cambrics, is an -all-linen fabric, plain woven, without a selvedge. It has been -imitated in cotton, and the name is now currently used to designate -an all-cotton plain-woven fabric finer than lawn, in which the warp -yarn is often of a different thickness from that used for the filling -and is finished with a smooth glazed surface. - - -=Italian Cloth.=--A plain cloth generally made of standard materials, -_i.e._, fine Botany weft and a cotton warp. Italian cloth is usually -a weft-faced fabric. Like all fabrics woven with a weft-faced -satin weave, the weft or filling threads are practically all on -the surface of the cloth, producing an even, close, smooth surface -capable of reflecting light to the best advantage. Italian cloth is -generally cross-dyed, that is to say, woven from a black warp and -grey weft, afterwards dyed in the piece. It may be woven either as -an all-cotton, a cotton and worsted, a cotton and wool, or a cotton -and mohair fabric. Its chief characteristic is its smooth, glossy, -silky appearance obtained by various processes of finishing given to -the cloth after it is woven. All finishes have the same tendency and -purpose, which is to improve the appearance and enhance the value -of the cloth. Whilst Italian Cloth may be either plain, figured, -embossed, printed, etc., or a combination of these varieties, the -name is applied to a "plain dyed cotton fabric." - - -=Italian Cloth, Figured, Cotton Warp and Wool Weft.=--This fabric, -in addition to the characteristics of the plain Italian Cloth woven -from cotton warp and wool weft, has had its surface ornamented -by the introduction of figures or floral or geometrical designs -produced either by combination of weave or by means of certain extra -threads known as "figuring threads." These figures may be produced -by means of either extra warp or extra weft threads. In this class -of material, where the weft is wool, the extra figuring thread is -generally a weft thread. The figuring thread, after having served -the purpose of ornamenting the face of the cloth, is allowed to lie -loosely or "float" underneath the ground cloth structure. Where the -figuring is produced by combination of weave no such floating threads -appear. - - -=Italian Cloth, Plain, Cotton Warp and Wool Weft.=--Under the heading -"Italian Cloth" it will be seen that such a fabric is essentially a -weft-faced satin-weave material having practically the whole of the -weft or filling threads on the surface. When it is woven from a wool -weft and a cotton warp the material shows the face of the cloth as a -wool face, the main bulk of the cotton warp showing on the back of -the fabric. When woven with cotton warp and wool weft, Italian Cloth -still retains the characteristic smooth surface of all weft-faced -satin-weave fabrics. Very simple tests by burning will show the -nature of both warp and weft, and this class of fabric illustrates -clearly, by contrast between the two sets of threads, the nature -of weft-faced satin or kindred weave fabrics. Such Italians are -generally cross-dyed, _i.e._, woven with dyed warp and grey weft, and -then piece-dyed. - - -=Jaconet.=--There are two varieties of Jaconets, both of which, -however, are all-cotton fabrics. One is a hard-finished fabric -similar in weight to Victoria Lawn, having a smooth, lustrous, -Cambric finish. The other is a soft-finished material which can -hardly be distinguished from a heavy soft-finished Nainsook. Jaconet -is a plain-woven fabric which has been variously described as a -"thin, soft Muslin," or as a "plain-woven cotton fabric lightly -constructed, composed of light yarns." Bleached, dyed, or printed in -the grey piece length, similar to Mulls, Nainsooks, Cambrics, etc. It -is also spelt Jaconettes. - - -=Jacquards= is a loose term applied to elaborate designed fabrics -produced by means of a machine called a Jacquard, the distinctive -feature of which is an apparatus for automatically selecting warp -threads and moving them independently of each other. Jacquards are -the produce of what is termed figure weaving, in which complicated -figures are woven into the fabric. - - -=Jaeger.=--This name is used to designate the products of a certain -manufacturer whose material is described as being an "all-wool" -material. Generally applied to underwear and fabrics into whose -composition camel wool is said to enter largely. - - -=Jean.=--A Jean is an all-cotton fabric woven as a three-shaft twill -similar to a Dungaree. Good-quality Jeans, woven from coloured warp, -are often used as sailors' collars and for children's clothing. Woven -in the grey as a weft-faced twill and subsequently dyed, they are -used for lining cloths. The weave of a Jean fabric, which is its -salient characteristic, is described under "Grey Jeans," which is the -kind of Jean most often met with. - - -=Jeanette.=--A three-shaft weft twill fabric having warp and weft -threads about equally proportioned in number and thickness. - -The name "Jeanette backed" is applied to certain pile fabrics that -have a three-end twill back. - -Applied to a cotton material, it would correspond to a Jean type -fabric not as stoutly woven as a Jean. One authority, however, -claims that it is "a similar fabric to the Jean in which the warp -predominates." - - -=Jouy.=--Printings in small floral effects on silk or cotton, similar -to Pompadour designs. Named after a Frenchman who established a plant -for such work during the reign of Louis XV. - - -=Kerseymere.=--Seldom met with under this name. Kerseymere is a fine -woollen cloth of a serge-like character, woven with a three-shaft -weft-faced twill weave. - - -=Khaiki.=--A Japanese silk of plain weave, not so fine as Habutai. - - -=Khaki.=--A colour resembling that of the ground. This word is -derived from the Hindustani word for "earth." A term applied to -a special shade of brown or greenish brown largely employed in -soldiers' uniforms. - - -Ladies' Cloth.--A dress fabric of plain weave, similar to a Flannel -in construction, but with a high-finished surface, which gives the -fabric a Broadcloth effect. - - -=Lappet Weave.=--Lappet weaving is used to produce on a light fabric -small designs which have the appearance of having been embroidered -upon the fabric, such as the detached spots in dotted Swiss, or -narrow and continuous figures running more or less in stripes. This -form of weaving is used mainly on plain and gauze fabrics, and the -figures are practically stitched into the fabric by means of needles -in a special sliding frame. The yarn which produces the figured -design is an extra warp thread known as a "whip yarn." Lappet -weaving produces the design on one side only of the fabric, and this -feature will enable this style of weave to be recognised from other -processes, such as Swiss Embroidery. The loose threads existing -between the figures when the goods leave the loom are usually cut -away, leaving a somewhat imperfect figure or spot with a bit of the -figuring thread protruding at either extreme edge of the figure or -spot. Lappet-figured fabrics are not Brocades. - - -=Lastings.=--A plain twill or kindred weave fabric firmly woven -from hard-twisted wool or cotton yarns. Smooth in appearance but -having a somewhat hard handle, Lasting is a fine, durable, generally -piece-dyed, material, of which there are several varieties, such as -the Printed and the Figured. It is sometimes employed in the making -of uppers for boots and shoes. - - -=Leas.=--A term used to denote the count of linen yarn, each lea -being a measure of length equal to 300 yards. When used with -reference to cotton yarn, it is a measure of length equal to 4,320 -inches, or 120 yards. _See under_ Cotton Yarn Measures. - - -=Leather Cloth.=--This name is given to a cloth which is known in the -Bradford district as a Melton. It is a union cloth woven from cotton -warp and woollen weft having the warp threads running in pairs or, as -it is called, in "sisters." Generally measuring from 50 to 56 inches -in width and weighing from 20 to 24 ounces per yard, it is finished -with a bright, smooth face. The system of interlacing of warp and -weft is not apparent either on the face or back of the cloth. By -pulling away one or two weft threads it is easy to see that the warp -threads are of cotton and that they are in pairs. Leather cloth is -free from any figuring and is generally dyed in dark colours. - - -=Leno.=--Where a fabric is woven with a combination of gauze weaving -and a few plain picks it is said to be a Leno. It is a term now -currently used to designate all classes of light fabrics into which -the gauze weave (in which kind of weaving all the warp threads do -not run parallel or at right angles to the weft but are more or -less twisted round each other) is introduced in combination with -any other kind of weave. Lenos may have either an "all-over effect" -or "stripes." The introduction in Lenos of the gauze weave tends to -strengthen a material which from its very nature can only be but -light. Lenos may show, in addition to the "all-over effect," an extra -weft figure or spot. Whilst all these would be known as Lenos, their -more correct designation would be Figured Lenos, or Extra Weft Spot -Figured Lenos. The term is now loosely used, and sometimes a "lace" -stripe Muslin will be called a Leno. The crossing threads used in the -true or "net" Lenos are often of two or three fold yarn. The common -so-called lace curtains are Lenos. The common varieties of Lenos are -extensively used for the purpose of mosquito nets. - - -=Liberty.=--A light-weight silk having a satin finish. A trade name -applied to a satin-finish silk of light weight now generally applied -to such silks, although not the original "Liberty." - - -=Linen Yarn.=--When the count of linen yarn is given, it is denoted -by "leas." Each lea is a measure of 300 yards, and 10 leas = 1 -hank and 20 hanks = 1 bundle. It will be seen that as the "counts" -increase, the weight per bundle decreases. - - -=Lingerie.=--This comprehensive term embraces ladies' and children's -undergarments, such as skirts, undershirts, etc., infant's long and -short dresses, stockings, chemises, night-robes, drawers, corset -covers, etc. - - -=Lining.=--A cloth usually made from cotton warp and cotton, alpaca, -or Botany weft, according to the type of cloth required, generally -woven with a sateen weave. Italian Cloth is a typical example of -lining cloth. The name denotes a class of fabrics rather than a given -fabric. - - -=Lisle Thread.=--Yarns made of long-staple cotton, somewhat tightly -twisted and having a smooth surface produced by passing the yarn over -gas jets. - - -=Loading Worsted and Woollens.=--When the natural weight of any -fabric is artificially increased, it is subjected to a treatment -called "filling," "loading," or "weighting." Wool fabrics, by reason -of their great hygroscopic properties, are usually weighted by being -impregnated with hygroscopic substances, such as magnesium chloride. -Other agents employed for filling worsted and woollen goods are zinc -chloride, dextrine, starch, and water glass (alkali silicate). - -Zinc chloride is a most useful loading agent on account of it -possessing great hygroscopic properties. When a wool fabric has -passed through solutions containing this agent the chloride is -absorbed and permanently retained in the form of moisture, and a -slippery handle or feel is imparted. - - -=Longcloth.=--This name is used to designate a fine cotton fabric, -either plain or twill woven, of superior quality, made from a fine -grade of cotton yarn of medium twist. - -The fabric is used for infants' long dresses, from which it derives -its name, also for lingerie. Longcloth to some extent resembles -Batiste, fine Muslin, India Linen, and Cambric. It is, however, -distinguished from these fabrics by the closeness of its weave. -It has, when finished, a very good white appearance, due to the -closeness of the weave and the soft twist of the yarn. The surface is -rendered smooth by undergoing a "gassing" process. - - -=Long Ells (Woollen).=--This name is given to an all-wool twill-weave -fabric woven with a worsted warp and a woollen weft, averaging in -width from 28 to 30 inches and having a length of 24 yards to the -piece. Calendered, finished, and often dyed a bright vermilion. Long -Ells averaged in value during the 10 years 1904-14 about 17_s._ per -piece. They are not met with in a large range of qualities, the most -usual type answering to the above description. - - -=Long Stick.=--This term is used to describe a yard of 36½ inches -in length. The abbreviated manner of writing this term on documents -referring to textiles is LS. It is only used in connexion with -textile fabrics and in opposition to "short stick," a yard of 36 -inches. One authority states that "the yard is generously reckoned at -37 inches by manufacturers in the United Kingdom." This statement, -however, should be taken with reserve, although in the woollen trade -it seems to be a common practice. In addition to this extra 1 inch -per yard, a quarter of a yard in every 10 is generally allowed, so -that a nominal 40-yard piece would actually measure 40 yards + 40 -inches + 1 yard = 42 yards 4 inches. The long stick measure is only -used in the woollen trade. - - -=Louisine.=--A silk fabric having an uneven surface like that of an -Armure, but finer in effect. - - -=Lustre Dress Fabrics.=--This class of union fabric, when woven -with a fast black dyed cotton warp and a worsted mohair weft, is -representative of union fabrics in general, and the treatment of this -material when in its grey state applies to the majority of union -fabrics. The warp is generally a 2/80's, _i.e._, a strong yarn, and -the weft, say, a 1/14's. The warp being dyed prior to weaving, there -only remains the weft to be dyed after the unfinished cloth leaves -the loom. This is called cross-dyeing. The grey cloth, in its loom -state, possesses a visible appearance of non-lustrous cotton. This -appearance is changed and replaced by the lustre effect through the -process of "crabbing," or drawing out the material in the direction -of the cotton warp. The warp threads when drawn straight virtually -throw the lustrous weft to the surface, whilst they themselves become -embedded out of sight in the cloth. Orleans, Mohair Brilliantine, and -Mohair Sicilian are fabrics which come under this heading. - - -=Maco.=--Applied to hosiery or underwear made from pure Egyptian -undyed cotton. - - -=Madapolams= are all-cotton plain-weave bleached Shirtings or Calico -cloths. - - -=Madras.=--A light-weight cotton fabric or a cotton and silk mixture -sold in widths varying from 27 to 32 inches, usually made from -dyed yarns. Extensively used to designate light-weight shirting -materials as used for men's shirts, the term is equally applied -to similar weight fabrics printed in simple designs frequently -elaborated in weaving by stripes or figures woven on a dobby loom. -In the distributing trade, comprising various subdivisions of the -trade, the names Madras, Gingham, Madras Gingham, Zephyr, etc., are -so closely allied as to be impossible of separation. The original -intent of these several designations has apparently been completely -lost. Madras may either be woven as a plain or twill or kindred -weave fabric. Whilst this name is primarily applied to an all-cotton -fabric, it is also used to designate a cotton and silk mixture, -when it is sometimes described as a Silk Gingham. The salient -characteristic of Madras is the plain white and fancy coloured narrow -stripes running in the direction of the warp. - - -=Madras Gingham.=--This name is applied to all-cotton fabrics made in -part or to a considerable extent of dyed yarns of various colours, -woven into stripes or checks woven either plain or fancy or with -a combination of two or more weaves, and of a weight distinctly -suitable for a shirting material in countries lying in the temperate -zone. In the United States the introduction of a leno or satin stripe -for the purpose of elaboration or ornamentation does not change the -trade designation of such Gingham. Madras Gingham may be woven either -plain, diamond, gauze and leno weave, or a combination of these -weaves. _See_ Madras. - - -=Madras Handkerchiefs.=--Plain-woven coloured cloths, with large -bold checks. The yarns are dyed with a loose top, and the cloth is -treated with acids, which cause the colours to bleed or run and give -an imitation of block printing. - - -=Maline.=--A fine silk net of gauze-like texture. Practically the -same as Tulle. - - -=Market Descriptions of Standard Cloth.=--Certain standard cloths -are known on the market by an expression such as "36--76, 19 x 22, -32/36". This stated at length means that the cloth is 36 inches -wide, 76 yards long, and contains 19 "ends" (or warp threads) and -22 "picks" (or weft threads) per quarter inch, whilst the twist (or -warp) is 32's and the weft 36's--all being actual, not nominal, -particulars. - - -=Marl.=--A term applied to a particular kind of coloured two-fold -or single yarn. In the former (the two-fold) one or both threads -making the two-fold yarn are spun from two rovings of different -colours, causing the single thread to have a twist-like appearance; -or the process may be begun earlier, by the two colours being run -together in the thick roving, thus producing a twist-like effect -in the smaller roving immediately preceding the spinning. These -single twist-looking threads are usually folded with a solid colour, -frequently black. If folded with each other they are called Double -Marls; a single-yarn Marl is this yarn without the folding. - - -=Marquisette.=--A sheer plain-weave fabric of silk or cotton, having -a mesh more open than that of Voile. - - -=Matelassé.=--A heavy compound-weave figured cloth, having a raised -pattern, as if quilted or wadded. - - -=Matt Weave.=--Similar to a plain or one-over-one weave, with this -difference, that instead of lifting one thread at a time two are -lifted over two. It might be described as a double plain weave. This -style of weave is noticeable in some varieties of embroidery canvas. - - -=Medium Cloth (Woollen).=--This is an all-wool fabric, plain woven -from a wool weft and wool warp. In width it varies from 54 to 74 -inches and in length from 19 to 36 yards per piece. The average value -of this fabric per yard for the period 1904 to 1914 was 4_s._ 3_d._ - -This fabric approximates to, and by some is said to be identical -with, Broad, Habit, and Russian Cloth. - - -=Mélange.=--The French word for "mixture." Name given to a yarn -produced from printed tops. This class of yarn can be distinguished -from Mixture Yarn in that many fibres have more than one colour upon -them. In Mixture Yarn each fibre would only have one colour. - - -=Melton.=--Stout, smooth woollen cloth, similar to Broadcloth, but -heavier. A heavily milled woollen in which the fibres have been -raised, then the piece cut bare to obtain the typical Melton. Both -light and heavy Meltons are made with cotton warp and woollen weft. - - -=Mercerised Cotton.=--Cotton fibre roughly resembles a tube which, -being hollow and collapsed on itself, presents an uneven, twisted, -tape-like appearance with a good many surface markings. - -By chemical treatment (mercerising) with caustic soda, and the -application of tension at the right period of the treatment, -remarkable changes in the structure and appearance of the cotton -fibre are produced. It is made to swell, to become more transparent, -to lose its twisted tube-like appearance, and to become more -lustrous, translucent, and elastic. Mercerised cotton gives an -impression of silk to the naked eye, its microscopic appearance being -changed, the fibre having swelled out and assumed a rounded rod-like -appearance which, whilst resembling silk, still differs from silk by -the absence of the characteristic swellings so distinctive to silk. - -The mercerising process improves the dyeing properties of cotton. The -most effective mercerisation is obtained with Egyptian cotton. - - -=Mercerising.=--The object of this very important operation in the -manufacture of cotton goods, yarn, or cloth is to give them lustre, -making them resemble silk, the use of which they have replaced in -many instances. The process, which takes its name from the inventor -(Mercer), consists of passing the yarn or cloth, preferably bleached -or partially bleached, through a concentrated solution of caustic -soda, which causes the straightening of the cotton fibres, and would -also cause it to shrink considerably were it not for the fact that -the material being treated is kept under tension, which prevents the -shrinking. To this tension more than anything else is the lustre -imparted due. Mercerising is only applicable to vegetable fibres. -Animal fibres dissolve in caustic soda. The caustic soda solution is -only allowed to react on the fibre for about two minutes, when it is -washed out by abundant application of fresh water. _See_ Mercerised -Cotton. - - -=Merino.=--Applied to hosiery or underwear made of part cotton and -part wool mixed together. (_Note._--The word "merino" on a box label -is often misleading, as it frequently happens that goods so called -are composed wholly of cotton.) - - -=Mesh Underwear.=--All knit underwear cloth is mesh in varying -degree, but the common application of the term means a woven or -knitted fabric having a net-like appearance. - - -=Messaline.=--A light-weight satin of fine quality. - - -=Mixture Yarn.=--This class of yarn is spun from fibres which have -previously, and separately, been dyed various colours. The fibres are -then mixed together to produce the desired mixture tone and spun in -the usual way. This class of yarn differs from Mélange Yarn, which is -composed of fibres upon which more than one colour has been printed. - - -=Mock Leno.=--Mock or imitation Lenos are ordinary woven cloths, that -is, the warp threads do not cross each other, the open effect being -less pronounced than in the real Leno, resulting in a fabric which is -not as strong as the real or true Leno. - - -=Mock Seam.=--Applied to stockings made with cut leg and fashioned -foot. - - -=Mohair= is a lustrous wool obtained from the Angora goat. The hair -is often pure white, fine, wavy, and of good length, being the most -lustrous of the wool or hair class fibres. It is extensively used -in the manufacture of Plushes and lustrous dress fabrics. The name -Mohair is used to designate a lustrous fabric made from this class of -material. - - -=Mohair Beaver Plush.=--This fabric is a pile-weave material having -a long lustrous mohair pile and a cotton back. The mohair pile is -generally a "fast" pile in the sense that it is firmly held to the -back. The pile is not as lustrous as a silk pile or even a good -mercerised cotton pile, but it will not crush as readily as the -latter. Generally measures from 48 to 50 inches in width and 60 yards -in length. To prevent crushing of the pile, this material is shipped -on an iron frame, on which it is fastened by a series of hooks which -hold the material by the selvedges. Generally packed two frames to -the box or case. The backs of mohair pile fabrics show a certain -amount of loose pile fibres which have worked through during the -process of weaving. This is not found in either silk or cotton pile -fabrics. - - -=Mohair Brilliantine.=--A typical lustre dress fabric, plain woven, -free from ornamentation, cotton warp and mohair weft; width, 30 to 31 -inches; length, 30 to 35 yards per piece. Finer in weave appearance -than Lustre Orleans, with a fairly extensive range of qualities. Like -most lustre fabrics, it is cross-dyed. - - -=Mohair Coney Seal.=--A long mohair-pile fabric, dyed black, in -widths of from 48 to 50 inches. The pile of this fabric is mohair, -the foundation cloth all cotton. Harsher to the touch than a -silk-pile fabric, Mohair Coney Seal has, as a distinctive feature, -a fuzzy appearance at the back due to the fact that certain of the -pile fibres appear to have worked through. If a similar fabric were -dyed brown instead of black, it would be known as a Mohair Beaver -Plush. If a similar fabric were dyed black and the surface chemically -bleached till the dye was all out, producing a pile dyed two-thirds -black and the surface third white, it would be known as a Silver Seal -or Chinchilla Plush. - - -=Mohair Sicilian.=--Similar in construction of weave and components -to a Mohair Brilliantine and differing from this only by the -relative coarseness of threads. Sicilian is three times as coarse -as Brilliantine, presenting a surface in which the warp and weft -intersections are clearly shown, whereas the Brilliantine, being -so much finer woven, does not show these so clearly, presenting -as it does a smoother surface. The weft threads in Sicilian are -comparatively much coarser than the warp, whereas in Brilliantine -this difference is not so apparent. In width Sicilian measures up to -54 inches and in length from 30 to 35 yards per piece. - - -=Moiré.=--A watered design applied to silks by pressure between -engraved rollers, or by the more common process of pressing two -fabrics together. _See_ Watering. - - -=Moleskin.=--An all-cotton Fustian, made extra strong by crowding the -number of picks to the inch, napped before dyeing and put to the same -uses as a strong Corduroy. - - -=Mottles.=--A variety of Velveteen or Velveteen Cord woven with -a pile surface showing a distinct combination of yarn-dyed pile -threads. Generally found with a pile combining black and white -weft-pile threads; Mottles are yarn-dyed fabrics. - - -=Mousseline de Soie.=--A sheer soft fabric of silk, similar to -Chiffon, but of more open weave. - - -=Mule-twist Yarn.=--Mule-twist yarn can be spun up to the finest -counts; it is softer and more elastic than ring-twist yarn; it will -take up more "size" than ring-twist and, generally speaking, is more -regular in construction. - - -=Mull.=--A thin plain fabric usually bleached or dyed, characterised -by a soft finish, used for dress wear. Various prefixes, such as -Swiss, India, and Silk, are used in conjunction with Mull. Silk Mull -is made of cotton warp and silk filling, and generally of higher -count, finished either dyed or printed. The Swiss and India Mulls are -fine, soft, bleached cotton fabrics; Silk Mull is in point of texture -twice as fine as some grades of Cotton Mull. Cotton Mull is a plain -fabric free from any ornamental features or fancy weaves, depending -for its beauty or attractiveness entirely on the finish. When -coarse-grade Mull, intended not for dress wear but for decorative -purposes, is made, it is woven coarser than the dress fabric, -stiffened in the finishing, and commonly known as Starched Mull. It -is 30 inches wide, and has 36 picks and 40 ends per inch. Cotton Mull -is generally woven from bleached yarns and not bleached in the piece. - - -=Mungo and Shoddy= are wool products or wool fibres which have -previously passed through the process of manufacture. - -Before either Mungo or Shoddy is produced, the rags, tailors' -clippings, pattern-room clippings, or samples from which they are -made have to be dusted, sorted, and ground. The last process tears -thread from thread and fibre from fibre, leaving the Mungo or Shoddy -ready to be once more made up into a yarn. The name is applied to -textiles made up wholly or in great part from Mungo or Shoddy. - -There actually exists a technical difference between Mungo and -Shoddy, due to the class of fabric from which they are made. Mungo is -the product of all types of cloths which have been subjected to the -milling process. Shoddy is the product of unmilled fabrics, such as -flannels, stockings, wraps, etc. Mungo is usually shorter and finer -in fibre than Shoddy, because, in the first place, milled cloths are -nearly always made from the shorter kinds of wool; secondly, because -the fibres of a milled cloth are very difficult to separate from one -another and break in the process of pulling. - -Both Mungo and Shoddy are rather more comprehensive terms than names -for any special type of material; both classes have a number of -special divisions with different names. - - -=Nainsook.=--Nainsook is a light cotton fabric of plain weave which -has a very soft finish. It may be distinguished from fine Lawns, -fine Batiste, and fine Cambric from the fact that it has not as firm -a construction nor as much body, and for that reason is not capable -of retaining as much finishing material, the result being that when -finished it has a very soft feel when handled. In width it ranges -from 28 to 32 inches and in length from 20 to 60 yards per piece. - - -=Nankeen.=--The original Nankeen fabric was produced in China and was -a plain-weave cotton fabric woven on a hand loom from a cotton yarn -which had a natural yellow-coloured tinge. The name is now given to a -cotton cloth produced in Lancashire, woven as a three-shaft twill and -dyed a yellowish drab and other colours, often used for corset-making. - -There is a mass of evidence to show that true Nankeen is a class -of cloth having as a salient characteristic an inherent peculiar -colour which is natural and due to its being woven from cotton of a -yellow-brownish tint. The following extracts bear on this point. - -"The statement that this stuff was made from a cotton of brownish -yellow tint was for a long time discredited, but it is now certain -that the yellow preserves the colour of the cotton composing it -rather than acquires it by any process of dyeing" (S. William Beck: -"Textile Fabrics: Their History and Applications"). - -Sir George Staunton, who travelled with Lord Macartney's Embassy -through the province of Kiangnan, to which province the Nankeen -cotton is peculiar, distinctly states that the cotton is naturally -"of the same yellow tinge which it preserves when spun and woven into -cloth" ("Embassy to China," by Sir George Staunton). - -Sir George Thomas Staunton (son of the above) has translated an -extract from a Chinese herbal on the character, culture, and uses -of the annual herbaceous cotton plant, in which the plant producing -"dusky yellow cotton" of a very fine quality is mentioned as one of -the varieties ("Narratives of the Chinese Embassy to the Khan of the -Tartars"). - -Van Braam, who travelled in China with a Dutch Embassy and who had -been commissioned by European merchants to request that the Nankeens -for their markets might be dyed a deeper colour than those last -received, says: "La toile de Nanking, qu'on fabrique fort loin du -lieu du même nom, est faite d'un coton _roussâtre_: la couleur de -la toile de Nanking est donc naturelle, et point sujette à pâlir" -("Voyage de l'Ambassade de la Compagnie des Indes Orientales -Hollandaises vers l'Empereur de la Chine"). - -"Each family (at Woosung) appears to cultivate a small portion of -ground with cotton, which I here saw of a light yellow colour. The -Nankeen cloth made from that requires no dye" ("Voyage of the Ship -_Amherst_ to the North-east Coast of China, 1832," published by order -of the House of Commons). - -Other authors refer to a Nankeen-coloured cotton grown in India and -state that the original Nankeen fabric was produced in Nanking, -in China, and was woven from a natural-coloured yellow cotton. As -produced in Lancashire the cloth is a closely woven three-shaft -twill, dyed yellowish drab and other colours and used for stay and -corset making and for pocketing. - -An American Government publication (House of Representatives Document -No. 643: Report of the Tariff Board on Schedule 1 of the Tariff -Law) gives the general description of Nankeens as known in the -distributing trade as: "Distinguished by their peculiar yellowish -brown colour, natural to the colour of the cotton of which made." - -From the above it would seem clear that true Nankeen is a plain -native cotton cloth woven on a native hand loom from unbleached -and undyed yarn spun from cotton of a yellowish or yellow-brownish -natural colour. The weave of Nankeen is a plain one-over and -one-under shirting weave, such being the type of weave most readily -produced on a native hand loom. The finished fabric is marketed in -its loom state. - -True Nankeen is therefore devoid of any ornamentation or figuring -produced by weave or subsequent printing, embossing, dyeing, or -stencilling. The width of Nankeen has apparently been always -recognised as not exceeding 20 inches. - -The name Nankeen in China was originally used to describe native -hand-loom cloths of the above variety only, but as new and slightly -different makes of native cloth appeared on the market the practice -grew of including them under this heading, until gradually the term -was used to describe not only the true Nankeen but a whole group of -native cloths answering to the following description: all-cotton -cloths not exceeding 20 inches in width, woven on a hand loom with -a one-over and one-under shirting weave from cotton yarn which has -not been previously dyed or mercerised, and including cloths of the -above variety which have either been bleached, piece-dyed in solid -greyish or blue colour, or woven from yarn previously dyed in greyish -or blue colour, and including hand-loom-woven grey or bleached cotton -cloths not exceeding 20 inches wide which have been ornamented by the -introduction in the weave of a yarn-dyed blue stripe or yarn-dyed -blue checkered design. - -This loose application of the term continued until the 2nd May 1917, -when the Chinese Maritime Customs, in their Notification No. 876 -(Shanghai, 2nd May 1917) laid down an authoritative definition of -this class of piece goods reading as follows:-- - - 1. The cloth must be of plain shirting weave, woven on a hand - loom of the old style; it must not exceed 20 inches (English) in - width. - - 2. The "count" of the yarn (whether Chinese or foreign) from - which the cloth is made must not exceed 20's. The yarn must be - single in both warp and weft; it must not be "gassed." - - 3. The cloth may be of the natural colour, _i.e._, undyed, or it - may be bleached or dyed in the yarn. It must not be dyed in the - piece. - -Chinese Cotton Cloth that does not fulfil the above conditions will -not be treated as Nankeen. - - -=Noils= are the rejected fibres from the process of combing the -different wools and hairs prior to making them up into yarn. The -primary object of combing is to sort or separate the long from the -short fibres. - - -=Ombré.=--Having graduated stripes in colour effect which shade from -light to dark. - - -=Opera Hose.=--Women's stockings of extra length ordinarily measuring -34 inches. - - -=Organzine.=--This name is given to a hard and strong finished silk -thread which has been given a great deal of twist in the throwing. -Organzine is used for warps, as strength and regularity are needed -in warp threads so that they may bear the strain and friction of -weaving. When silk is thrown with less twist, and is therefore softer -and more or less flossy, it is known as Tram and is used for the weft -in weaving. - - -=Orleans.=--This fabric, also known as a Lustre Orleans, is one of -the many varieties of lustre dress fabrics met with and described -elsewhere. Woven with cotton warp and lustre weft, free from -ornamentation, it is a simple one-over and one-under plain-weave -fabric. Average width, 30 to 31 inches; length, 30 yards; price in -normal times averaging, for the usual type, as low as 8½_d._ per yard. - -In fineness of appearance it lies midway between a Mohair -Brilliantine, which is of finer weave, and a Mohair Sicilian, which -is of similar weave, coarser, but more lustrous in appearance. - - -=Ottoman.=--A silk or cotton weave having thick ribs at various -intervals. Originally, the thick cord ran crossways. When the cord -runs lengthways the fabric is often known as an Ottoman Cord. - -This material is also called a Persian Cord, which is a cloth made -from worsted or cotton warp and worsted weft employing the plain -weave, but with the warp threads working in twos, thus giving a rib -effect. - - -=Outsize.=--When used as a knitted goods term it is applied to -women's stockings made in extra widths. - - -=Oxford.=--Originally a wool fabric in dark grey and white mixtures. -Of late years heavy cotton and linen fabrics have been known by this -name. - - -=Oxford Shirting.=--This fabric is an all-cotton fabric woven with a -plain-weave ground and ornamented by the introduction of broken twill -or fancy twill weave. It is woven with white and coloured yarns, -which go to make the pattern or design--which in the main takes the -form of stripes--of broken twill weave running lengthways of the -material. Where the design is produced by printing, the material -would not be an Oxford Shirting, but would more correctly be classed -as an "imitation" or "printed" Oxford. - -Oxford Shirting has been described as "a matt weave of coloured -yarns, forming small checked effects or basket effects." As the name -shows, it is extensively used in the making of shirts and ranges in -quality from a low-grade to a high-quality fabric. - - -=Padded Back Linings.=--When a fabric is printed black on one side, -or backed, to prevent the printed pattern on the face of the cloth -from showing through, it is known as a Padded Back Lining. A natural -back lining is a solid-coloured lining printed on one side only. This -class of fabric is generally woven from all-cotton yarns, but may -include fabrics which contain wool, silk, or other fibres. - - -=Pad-dyeing.=--Fabrics are generally piece-dyed after leaving the -loom by being immersed in a bath of dye or colouring material. With -a view to quickening more than actually cheapening the process of -dyeing, "pad-dyeing" was evolved. This roughly consists in threading -the cloth to be dyed into a machine the main features of which -are dye baths and rubber rollers. The cloth is made to pass over -rollers, dip into a dye bath and pass through rollers which squeeze -out the superfluous dye, allowing same to fall back into the dye -bowl or bath. In "pad-dyeing" the cloth may pass as often as six -times through the dye liquor before it enters the first set of -squeezers, and it may be given as many as four more passes through -the liquor before the second set of squeezers are gone through; this, -according to experts, gives "thorough saturation to any and all goods -difficult to penetrate." It is generally recognised that any degree -of saturation can be attained by the process of pad-dyeing, and cloth -may be run through a machine at the rate of some 275 yards per minute -and yet be well saturated. In a description of a pad-dyeing machine -the nature of the operation performed by this machine is called -"dyeing" and not "printing." The only difference therefore between -piece-dyeing in a vat and in a pad-dyeing machine is that in the one -instance the cloth is made to circulate in a dye bath or through a -series of dye baths instead of being allowed to remain still in a dye -vat until impregnated. The object aimed at and attained, _i.e._, the -saturation of the cloth with a dye or colouring liquor, is identical. - -All fabrics showing thorough saturation of ground colour (_i.e._, -where both sides of the fabric are equally dyed) are considered as -dyed whether they have been dyed by vat-dyeing or pad-dyeing. - - -=Panne.=--A light-weight Velvet with "laid" or flattened pile. -Applied to a range of satin-faced Velvets or silk fabrics which show -a high lustre, which is produced by pressure. The word _panne_ is -French for Plush. - - -=Panung.=--The nether garment of the Siamese. Made from cloth of the -Papoon style or from woven or printed Checks. Papoon is a plain-woven -cloth having warp and weft of different colours. It is also woven in -two-and-two checking. - - -=Panama Canvas.=--An all-cotton plain matt weave fabric, similar to -Basket Cloth, but woven from dyed yarns. - - -=Papoon.=--An all-cotton fabric woven from coloured yarns, the warp -being of a different colour to the weft or filling threads. Exported -to Siam, where it is extensively used for panungs. - - -=Paramatta.=--A thin union fabric woven as a three-shaft weft-faced -twill from cotton warp and Botany worsted weft, used extensively for -the manufacture of waterproof articles. - - -=Pastel.=--Applied to tones of any colour when exceptionally pale. - - -=Pastille.=--A round or oval spot. - - -=Peau de Cygne.=--A closely woven silk having a lustrous but uneven -surface. - - -=Peau de Soie.=--A closely woven silk having a somewhat uneven -satin-like surface. Literally, "skin of silk." A variety of heavy, -soft-finished, plain-coloured dress silk woven with a pattern of fine -close ribs extending weftways of the fabric. The best grades are -reversible, being similarly finished on both sides; lower grades are -finished on one side only. The weave is an eight-shaft satin with one -point added on the right or left, imparting to the fabric a somewhat -grainy appearance. - - -=Pekiné, or Pekin Stripes.=--A colour design in stripes of equal -width and with equal space between. - - -=Pepperell Drill.=--The very superior qualities of Drills, woven from -the highest quality yarns, are distinguishable by their carefully -woven appearance and known as Pepperell Drills. - - -=Percale.=--A plain-weave cotton fabric of fine or medium count, used -for shirtings, dresses, linings, etc. Percale is usually printed on -one side with geometrical figures, generally black, although other -colours are sometimes used. The fabric is bleached before printing -and has an entire lack of gloss, differing from Percaline, which has -a very glossy finish. It is often printed in stripes and, when so -printed, is known as Percale Stripes. - - -=Percaline.=--A highly finished and dressed light-weight Percale, -piece-dyed in solid colours and not printed. Percaline is an -all-cotton, plain, closely woven fabric, generally met with in shades -of blue, green, black, brown, and tan. Highly calendered and glossed. - - -=Persian Cord.=--A worsted or cotton warp and worsted weft fabric -woven with a plain weave, but with the warp threads working in twos, -thus giving a rib effect. Also called Ottoman. - - -=Pick.=--When the word "pick" is used in connexion with weaving, it -always signifies the filling or weft threads, while each warp thread -is called an "end" or a "thread." Picks run across the width of the -fabric. - - -=Piece Goods.=--A usual trade reference for fabrics which are woven -in lengths suitable for retail sale by linear measure. - - -=Pile Fabrics.=--Materials of silk or cotton wherein the surface is -woven with raised loops, which are afterwards cut, forming a raised -"pile." They include Plushes, Velvets, Velveteens, and Corduroys. - -The threads that go towards making the pile are special threads -independent of the warp and weft threads necessary to make a fabric -that will hold together. - -If the raised loops are left uncut, as more frequently is the case -with warp piles, the fabric is spoken of as "Terry." If cut, as is -sometimes the case with warp piles, and usually the case with weft -piles, the fabric is spoken of as "cut-pile." - -A generic name, used more in the elementary distributing trade, -covering the classes of goods known amongst retailers and consumers -as Velveteen, Corduroy, Turkish Towelling, Plush, etc. - - -=Pile Weave.=--Numerous varieties of cloth woven with a pile surface, -such as Plush, Velvet, Velveteen, Silk Seals, Pony Skin, Beaver, -Chinchilla Plush, and Carpeting of various kinds, are produced by -this style of weave. The distinctive feature of this weave is that -the surface consists of threads standing closely together like -bristles in a brush. These threads appear either as threads sheared -off smooth, so as to form a uniform or even surface, as in the case -of Velvet, or may appear in the form of loops, as in the case of -Towelling. The threads forming the pile are fixed to the back in a -more or less firm manner and are known as "loose" or "fast" pile: the -former takes the form of the letter @U@ and the latter of the -letter @W@. The loose pile may be driven out of the material by -pressure, as there are not the same binding threads holding it as in -the fast pile, or, again, they may be drawn out through the back of -the material by relatively little scratching with, say, the edge of -a paper-knife. The fast pile cannot be so withdrawn, as one of the -warp threads passes in each of the two surface depressions as well as -under the centre bend of the @W@, thus firmly binding it to the -cloth. All other conditions being equal, a fast-pile material would -be the better and more expensive of the two, and for upholstery or -where there is much wear the "fast" pile is essential. Pile-weave -materials are shipped on iron frames of about 60 yards, the material -being hooked on to the frame by the selvedge so as to prevent the -crushing of the pile. For export two frames are boxed together, -separated by a wood partition. - - -=Piqué.=--A stout cotton fabric having as a distinguishing feature -wide or fine welts, running "lengthways in the piece" and extending -side by side from selvedge to selvedge. It is woven in the unbleached -state and bleached before being placed on the market. It is also made -in part of dyed yarns, forming ornamental stripes. It is sometimes -referred to as Welts or Bedford Cords. This fabric is described in -the English market as a fabric having "transverse ribs or welts, -produced by stitching tightly weighted warp threads through a fine -plain-woven cloth which has its warp lightly tensioned." The ribs or -welts are sometimes emphasised by the introduction of wadding weft. -In America this material is sometimes described as "P.K." - - -=P.K.=--An American way of writing Piqué. This abbreviated -designation of the word is limited to America and seldom met with on -English invoices. - - -=Plain.=--As a weaving term the word "plain" is used to designate -the simplest weave, in which the weft thread passes under one and -over one warp thread. This system of interlacing produces a "plain" -or "one-over and one-under" or "shirting" weave. The term is also -used to denote that a fabric is not figured, _i.e._, that it is free -of ornamentation produced by either extra threads or combination of -weaves. - - -=Plain Velvet (Cotton).=--An all-cotton pile fabric, which is more -often known under the name of Velveteen. There would appear, however, -to be a difference between the two fabrics, which lies only in the -length of the pile, the pile of Velvet being if anything a little -longer than that of Velveteen and shorter than that of Plush. This -fabric may, like Velveteen, be either of a weft or warp pile weave, -which is more fully described under "Velveteen." Being plain, it -is free from any ornamentation produced by printing, embossing, or -combination of weave, and of uniform colour throughout the width and -length of the material. - - -=Plain Velveteen (Cotton).=--This fabric, like all true Velveteens, -is an all-cotton pile fabric which has not been ornamented or figured -in any way, either by being printed or embossed or by combination of -weave, and would be of uniform colour throughout the width and length -of the material. - - -=Plain (or Homespun) Weave.=--Plain cloth is the simplest cloth that -can be woven. In this weave one series of threads (filling or weft) -crosses another series (warp) at right angles, passing over one and -under one in regular order, thus forming a simple interlacement of -the threads. This weave is used in the production of Muslin, Gingham, -Broadcloth, Taffetas, etc. - -Checks are produced in plain weaving by the use of bands of coloured -warp and coloured filling. This weave produces a strong and firm -cloth. It is also called calico or tabby weave, and referred to as a -"one-over and one-under" weave. - - -=Plated.=--An American term used in connexion with goods having the -face of one material and the back of another; for instance, a garment -having a wool face and cotton back is "plated." The face may also be -of one colour and the back of another, both of the same material. - - -=Plissé.=--French for pleated; applied to fabrics which have as a -distinctive feature a narrow lengthways fold like the pleats of a -closed fan. Also known as Tucks. - - -=Plumetis.=--A sheer cotton fabric ornamented with tufts at -intervals. A Figured Muslin or Lawn of high quality and price which -shows on its face dots or small sprigs of flowers which closely -imitate real hand embroidery. These designs are the result of swivel -figuring. This fabric is also known as Plumety. - - -=Plush.=--As a distinctive fabric Plush would appear to be a pile -fabric having a fairly long pile woven on the same principle as -Velvet, but composed of wool, mohair, or mixed fibres, and sometimes -from a silk pile and cotton back. Used as an adjective, the word -"plush" would mean woven with a pile somewhat longer than Velvet. It -is generally used in conjunction with a prefix showing the nature of -the materials from which the pile is made. - -It is generally recognised that Plushes and Velvets are so generally -part cotton that a Silk Plush should be considered as having a -cotton back unless it is definitely stated that it is "silk backed." -This practice is recognised by manufacturing, wholesale, and retail -branches of the trade and is accepted by such authorities as Paul H. -Nystrom and recorded in his book, "Textiles." - - -=Plush of Silk mixed with other Fibres.=--This class of material -includes all pile fabrics which, in the first instance, answer to the -description of Plush, _i.e._, have their pile longer than that of -Velvet, and the pile of which, whilst being partly of silk, contains -other animal fibres such as wool or mohair and which may contain -even vegetable fibres such as cotton. In Plushes belonging to the -above class the nature of the back or foundation cloth may vary, but -in the great majority of cases they would be found to be of cotton. -Where it is clearly stipulated that they are "Plushes of silk mixed -with other fibres and having cotton backs," the foundation cloth must -not contain warp or weft threads wholly or in part composed of any -material other than cotton. - - -=Plush Velveteen.=--A plain all-cotton pile fabric, either weft or -warp pile, but generally the former, which differs from Velveteen -only in the length of the pile. As the name Velveteen stands for -"an all-cotton fabric," it would be as correct to describe a Plush -Velveteen as "an all-cotton Plush" or as a "long-piled Velveteen." -The terms Plush and Velveteen are explained elsewhere. - - -=Pointillé.=--Having a design in small dots. - - -=Pompadour.=--A term used to describe small floral designs in silk -fabrics. - - -=Poncho Cloth.=--This name is apparently more used to describe a -class of fabric than a particular and distinctive material. Used -presumably in the manufacture of Ponchos, which are blanket-shaped -garments having a slit in the centre through which the head is -passed, and extensively used in Mexico. Poncho Cloth was originally a -fine all-wool fabric. - -Poncho Cloth is now described as a union cloth, _i.e._, composed of -two materials, such as wool and cotton, otherwise than by blending. -It is also similar to what is known as Leather Cloth, produced in -the Morley district, which is heavier than the boiled and teazled -goods known in that district as "Unions." True Poncho Cloth is a -union cloth woven with cotton warp and woollen weft, measuring from -72 to 74 inches wide and having a distinctive 1-inch hair list at -each selvedge. It resembles but is lighter in weight than a Union or -Leather Cloth, averages from 16 to 20 ounces per yard, and is given a -high finish on the face. In the Bradford district such a cloth would -be known and sold as a "Melton" unless shipped as a Poncho Cloth at -the request of the buyer. - - -=Pongee.=--A fine plain-woven cotton fabric, mercerised, dyed, and -schreinered, having a soft handle or feel like the real Silk Pongee -of which it is an imitation. Pongees are met with having stripes -produced by coloured warp threads. The fabric has a lustrous silky -appearance. Average width, 28 inches. The ground colour of Pongees is -most often of a shade similar to real Silk Pongee. - - -=Pony Skin.=--As a textile term, it is used to describe a pile fabric -which is made to imitate the true Russian Pony Skin fur. Always dyed -a solid black, this fabric has a mohair pile which has been laid and -fixed by heat. The density of the pile and the lustre are the best -guides to value. Like many imitation fur fabrics, it came into the -market owing to the vogue of the real fur it imitates. Average width, -48 to 50 inches; length, 30 to 33 yards per piece. - - -=Poplin.=--A fabric having a silk warp and a wool weft, with a corded -surface. Goods in which a similar effect is produced, but made in all -silk, all wool, or cotton, are also called Poplins. - -It is a warp-ribbed fabric with a plain weave and was originally made -with a fine silk warp and a comparatively thick gassed worsted weft -which gave the ribbed effect, with the silk warp threads thrown to -the surface and completely hiding the worsted weft. It is similar to, -but generally softer finished than, Repp or Rep. - - -=Printed.=--This term, when used with reference to textiles, -indicates that the fabric has been submitted to a process whereby -certain designs, either simple or complex, have been impressed on -the surface of the fabric in either one or more colours. Calico is -perhaps the most typical of printed fabrics. The printing of fabrics -is generally done by the aid of a machine, its main feature being -a revolving cylinder on which the design has been stamped or cut -out. The cloth in passing through the machine comes in contact with -the impression cylinder. The cylinder revolving in a colour trough -takes up the colour and leaves the impression of the design on the -cloth. When fabrics are printed by hand from blocks, the design never -joins so perfectly that it cannot be detected, and, if looked for, -certain marks will be found that are used as "guides" to show the -operator where the next impression with the block is to be made. -Roller-printed designs, being continuous, show no such marks or -irregularities. - -A recent process known as the "Lithographic" or transfer process has -been introduced, and it is a modified form of block printing, an -engraved stone being used as for lithographic work. - -A fabric that is printed will not show continuous coloured threads, -but threads coloured in places and not in others; whereas in fabrics -having the pattern woven the coloured threads are continuous. - -An "indigo print" is distinguished from a regular print by having a -printed figure on a solid indigo blue ground, whereas the ground of -an ordinary print-cloth pattern is white or of a light colour. An -indigo-print pattern is obtained either by indigo block printing, -indigo discharge printing, or indigo resist printing. - - -=Printed Balzarines.=--The general structure and appearance of -Balzarines is given under that heading. The cotton variety would be -an all-cotton fabric having a gauze weave and net-like appearance. -The printed variety would consist of similar fabrics which had been -subjected to a process whereby certain simple or complex designs had -been impressed upon the surface of the fabric in either one or more -colours. The fabric would approximate 30 inches in width and probably -from 28 to 30 yards in length per piece. - - -=Printed Calico.=--This fabric is described under "Calico." - - -=Printed Cambrics.=--As the name shows, Printed Cambrics are Cambrics -which have been submitted to a process whereby certain simple or -complex designs in either one or more colours have been impressed on -their surface. - -Cambric being a light-weight, soft-finish, plain-weave fabric of -linen or cotton, the term Printed Cambric is therefore applicable -to either a linen or cotton fabric. The more correct designation -would be either Printed Linen Cambric or Printed Cotton Cambric. -The majority of Cambrics met with are Cotton Cambrics, and, unless -specially designated, a Printed Cambric would be a cotton fabric. -Whereas in the plain white a Cambric is finer than a Lawn, Printed -Cambrics, on the other hand, are coarser than Lawns. - - -=Printed Chintzes.=--This fabric is essentially a multicoloured -printed cotton fabric. It is the style of printing and the large -bright and gay coloured patterns of flowers and other subjects used -for ornamentation of the fabric that are the distinctive features -of this material, which is mainly used for curtains and furniture -coverings. Chintz is but a plain-woven fabric elaborately ornamented -with designs by means of the printing machine. After printing, the -fabric is passed through a calender press, the rolls of which are -well heated and tightly set, which gives the glazed finish which the -fabric in most cases possesses. - - -=Printed Cotton Drill.=--A strong all-cotton warp-faced or warp -sateen faced fabric which, after leaving the loom, has been suitably -prepared for and subjected to a process whereby certain ornamentation -in the form of simple or complex designs in either one or more -colours has been impressed on its surface. For particulars of weave, -_see_ Drills; Florentine Drills; Satin Drill. - - -=Printed Cotton Italians.=--This name is given to an all-cotton -fabric woven generally with a weft-faced satin weave having an even, -close, smooth surface, upon which--for the purpose of ornamentation -and to enhance the value of the fabric--certain simple or complex -designs in either one or more colours have been impressed. Whilst the -name of this fabric does not indicate whether it is a grey, white, or -dyed one, nevertheless, as an Italian Cloth itself is a dyed cotton -fabric, so a Printed Cotton Italian is a dyed and printed cotton -fabric. - - -=Printed Cotton Lastings.=--This fabric is essentially a plain -all-cotton twill or kindred weave fabric firmly woven from -hard-twisted yarns, piece-dyed after leaving the loom, and -subsequently subjected to a printing process whereby certain designs, -whether simple or complex, are impressed upon the surface of the -cloth in either one or more colours. - - -=Printed Crapes.=--Any all-cotton Crape Cloth, which has been -ornamented by having certain designs or patterns impressed upon -its surface in one or more colours, is termed a Printed Crape. The -crinkled appearance--which is the distinctive feature of Crape -Cloth--remains unchanged in the Printed Crape. The various methods of -obtaining this crinkled effect is given under "Crape Cloth, Plain." - - -=Printed Crimp Cloth.=--Any all-cotton Crimp Cloth which has been -ornamented by having certain designs or patterns impressed upon -its surface in one or more colours is known as a Printed Crimp. -The "cockled" stripes--which are the distinctive feature of Crimp -Cloth--remain unchanged in the Printed Crimps. The method of -obtaining these "cockled" stripes is given under "Crimp Cloth, Plain." - - -=Printed Furnitures.=--This name, like many others used with -reference to textiles, denotes more a class of goods than any given -fabric. Chintz, Cretonne, and any other printed cotton fabrics which -enter into the manufacture of chair or sofa coverings, curtains, -hassocks, screens, etc., may be termed Printed Furnitures. This name, -however, seems to be unknown to both manufacturer and distributor, -and it is not in use in any of the many branches of commerce -concerned with textile fabrics. As a generic term it has its value; -but if it was ever used as the name of any given fabric, it is so -used no longer. - - -=Printed Lawns.=--As the name shows, Printed Lawns are Lawns which -have been submitted to a process whereby certain simple or complex -designs in either one or more colours have been impressed on their -surface. Lawn being a light-weight, soft-finished, plain-weave fabric -woven from cotton yarns varying from 1/40's to 1/100's or from a -linen yarn, the term Printed Lawn is therefore applicable to either a -cotton or linen fabric. The more correct designation would be either -Printed Cotton Lawn or Printed Linen Lawn. The majority of Lawns met -with are Cotton Lawns, and unless specially designated, a Printed -Lawn would be a cotton fabric. Whereas a plain White Lawn is coarser -than a White Cambric, a Printed Lawn, on the other hand, is finer -than a Printed Cambric. It varies in width from 27 to 45 inches. - - -=Printed Leno.=--When a Leno has been submitted to a process whereby -certain simple or complex designs in either one or more colours have -been impressed on its face, it is then known as a Printed Leno. - - -=Printed Muslin.=--As the name shows, Printed Muslins are Muslins -which have been submitted to a process whereby certain simple or -complex designs in either one or more colours have been impressed -on their surface. Muslin, like Lawn and Cambric, is an open, -plain-weave, light-weight, soft-finished cotton fabric. The better -qualities of Muslin may be recognised by their evenness of weave and -fineness of yarn, whilst in the lower grades occasional warp or weft -threads will be irregular, having the appearance of being thicker in -some parts than in others. - - -=Printed Reps.=--As the name indicates, this class of fabric is -essentially of rep construction, _i.e._, having as a predominant -feature a rep or rib running transversely across the face of the -cloth, which is described in detail under "Rep." When a cloth or -fabric of rep construction has had its face ornamented by having -certain designs or patterns impressed on it in either one or more -colours, it is known as a Printed Rep. This class of fabric is -generally met with as an all-cotton fabric, and unless specially -designated, the material so described would be a printed plain (in -the sense of not figured) cotton fabric. - - -=Printed Sateens.=--These are essentially light-weight cotton fabrics -finished to imitate Silk Satin, and the common Italian Cloth is a -sateen fabric. The ornamentation of Printed Sateens is the result -of a printing process whereby certain designs are impressed on the -surface in contradistinction to Coloured Sateens, in which the -ornamentation is produced by combination of coloured warp and filling -threads. _See also_ Sateens; Satin. - - -=Printed Satinets.=--An imitation of the true Satin in mercerised -cotton or other yarns which has been printed after leaving the loom. -The four-shaft satin weave, which does not fulfil the conditions -of the real Satin as regards order of intersections, is known as a -satinet weave and is the basis of this class of fabric. Similar to -Sateen, but somewhat lighter in weight. - - -=Printed Sheetings.=--This name is given to an all-cotton fabric -woven either as a four-shaft two-and-two twill or with a plain weave, -as in the case of low-grade sheetings, in which waste and condenser -wefts are used. The actual fabric is woven as described under "Grey -Sheeting," then "singed," "bleached," and "calendered" to prepare -it for the process of printing, which consists of impressing on the -face of the material certain designs in either one or more colours. -This term is very seldom met with in the trade and is considered a -misnomer. - - -=Printed Shirtings.=--Printed Shirtings are essentially an -all-cotton fabric woven with a plain weave, having the warp and -weft approximately of the same count, which have had their surface -ornamented by being submitted to a process whereby certain simple or -complex designs in either one or more colours have been impressed -upon them. Printed Shirtings, like all other cotton fabrics, undergo -a process of "singeing," "bleaching," and "calendering" prior to -being printed. The first process removes the surface hairs, which -form a sort of nap to the surface of the cloth, which if allowed to -remain would interfere with the uniform application of the colours, -and the other two processes further prepare the fabric for printing. - - -=Printed T-Cloth.=--This fabric is an all-cotton plain-woven fabric, -generally woven from poor-quality yarn, which, after leaving the -loom, has been bleached and printed. This fabric answers the -description of a Printed Calico and would by many be known under that -name. Beyond the actual manufacturer, the jobber or exporter, and -those merchants in such markets as Manchester and China where the -term is currently used, few even in the textile business would know -the value of the term _T_-Cloth. - - -=Printed Turkey Reds.=--Fabrics designated as Printed Turkey Reds are -essentially all-cotton fabrics of good quality dyed turkey red (_see_ -Dyed Real Turkey Reds) and subsequently ornamented by having certain -designs impressed on their surface in either one or more colours. -They are usually plain woven or of small twill weave. - - -=Printed Twills.=--This term is applied to all cotton fabrics of -twill weave, having the diagonal effect or twill running across -the face of the fabric, which subsequent to being woven have been -ornamented by having certain designs, either simple or complex, -impressed on their surface in either one or more colours. - - -=Printed Velvet (Cotton).=--Like a Plain Cotton Velvet, this fabric -is virtually a Velveteen, _i.e._, an all-cotton pile fabric, which -has been ornamented by having certain designs or patterns impressed -on its face in either one or more colours. - - -=Printed Velveteen (Cotton).=--This fabric, like all true Velveteens, -is an all-cotton pile fabric which has been ornamented by having -certain designs, whether simple or complex, impressed on its surface -in either one or more colours. - - -=Printers.=--Plain-woven cotton cloths either exported plain or more -often used for printing. Burnley Printers, or "Lumps," are usually 32 -inches wide by 116 yards in length and 16 square, _i.e._, 16 ends and -16 picks to the quarter inch. Glossop or Cheshire Printers are about -36 inches by 50 yards and average 19 ends and 22 picks to the quarter -inch. Printers are generally well woven from pure yarns of good -quality. A variety woven from low-grade yarns is also manufactured. - - -=Pure Silk Plush.=--A pile fabric, not often met with woven entirely -from silk, _i.e._, having both pile face and back warp threads -of silk. Woven as a Velvet but with a somewhat longer pile. Most -branches of the trade consider a Pure Silk Plush to be a fabric -having an all-silk pile, irrespective of whether the foundation -fabric is silk or not. - -Paul H. Nystrom, in his book, "Textiles," states that Velvets and -Plushes are so generally part cotton that a Silk Velvet or a Silk -Plush should be considered as having a cotton back unless it is -definitely stated that it is "silk backed." The term "pure silk" -when applied to a plush qualifies the pile of the fabric and not -the fabric as a whole; it does not mean that the fabric is composed -entirely of silk. - - -=Pure Silk Velvet.=--An all-silk pile fabric, not often met with -woven entirely from silk, similar to an all-silk Plush, from which it -differs only in length of pile. The pile of Velvet is shorter than -that of Plush. A Pure Silk Velvet is generally understood to be a -pile fabric having an all-silk pile, irrespective of the nature of -the foundation fabric. Velvets are so generally part cotton that a -Silk Velvet should be considered as having a cotton back unless it is -definitely stated that it is "silk backed." "Silk," or "pure silk," -refers to the pile and the pile only, in the general acceptance of -the trade, and not to the fabric as a whole; it does not mean a -fabric composed entirely of silk. - - -=Raised Back Cloths.=--Fabrics requiring a "raised back" are usually -warp faced and weft backed. By constructing the cloth in this -manner, the raising machine, in the subsequent processes, partially -disintegrates the weft fibres and gives that soft and woolly feel -which one is accustomed to in such cloths as Swansdown, Cotton -Trouserings, and some classes of fabrics used for dressing-gowns, -pyjamas, etc. - - -=Raised Cotton Cloth.=--Any material woven in all cotton and having -either one or both sides "raised" or "napped" would be a Raised -Cotton Cloth. The "raising" or "napping" of the cloth is a process -which the fabric is put through with the view of giving it a soft -"woolly" feel. By passing the fabric, whilst it is tightly stretched, -over a revolving cylinder which has its surface covered with small -steel hooks or teasels, the surface of the fabric is scratched and -the short fibres of the yarn used in the weaving are opened up -and raised, resulting in a nap covering the whole of the surface. -Raised Cotton Cloths allow of the use of coarse inferior yarns -and are better looking than had they not been raised. The raising -hides defects of weave and produces a warmer, better-looking cloth -than could be produced by any other process at the price. Raised -Cloths, like certain Flannelettes, are sometimes chemically rendered -"fireproof." - - -=Ramie, Rhea, China Grass.=--A fibre obtained from a plant of the -nettle family which grows in India and China. The fibre is strong -and lustrous and lends itself to the weaving of various materials, -especially underclothing, and it is used also in the manufacture of -incandescent gas mantles. - -The diameter of ramie and china grass fibres is from two to three -times that of flax. Ramie and china grass are not absolutely -identical, the latter containing 78 per cent. of cellulose as -compared with 66 per cent. in ramie. When spun into threads they -produce a lustrous effect. Effects resembling silk-woven textures are -produced with the finest yarns, and when dyed in delicate shades they -give a brilliancy comparable with silk. - - -=Ratine.=--A wool material similar to a Chinchilla, but having -smaller tufts with wider spacings between. This material is always -plain woven and is of comparatively recent creation; it can be -described as a very rough surface dress fabric, properly in part of -wool, but now also made entirely of cotton. The characteristic rough -surface is caused by the use of special fancy weft threads which are -composed of two or more different size yarns so twisted together as -to produce knob effects at intervals in the thread. A more expensive -fabric is made of filling threads composed of braided yarns. The -trade now applies the name to imitation effects produced by terry -weaves, Turkish Towelling fabrics, bouclé and bourette effects. - - -=Rayé.=--This is the French term for "striped" and is applied to -patterns running longitudinally with the warp in textile fabrics, -produced by employing a special weave or two or more colours of warp -specially arranged. - - -=Reed and Pick= are terms applied in the cotton industry to the -number of threads in a given space--usually ¼ inch or 1 inch--in the -warp and weft respectively. These terms are not generally employed, -however, in all textile districts; the term "make" or "ends and picks -per inch" is applied to worsted cloths, whilst "sett" and "shots" are -used with the same meaning in the linen industry. - -The word "counts," which refers to the number or thickness of yarn, -is sometimes erroneously used in this connexion, probably owing to -the fact that the expression "counts to the 1-inch glass" is also -used in reference to reed and pick. - - -=Rembrandt Rib.=--Applied to women's stockings having groups of five -drop-stitches, separated by 1 inch of plain knitting running the full -length. - - -=Rep.=--The name Rep is used to designate certain fabrics that have -as a predominant feature a rep or rib running transversely across the -face of the cloth. The term may also be applied to the actual weft -rib which appears in the material. - -Reps are what is known as warp-ribbed fabrics, _i.e._, fabrics -with the rib or rep running weftways, and for that reason may be -considered the opposite of cords. The term "warp-ribbed" might at -first sight appear to designate a rib running warpways, that is to -say, in the longitudinal direction of the cloth, whereas a warp rib -is a warp surface weave in which, owing to the thickness of the weft -picks or to the grouping of a number of weft picks together, the warp -threads are made to bend round them, and being thus thrown to the -surface produce a ribbed appearance across the piece. Reps, unless -specially designated, are dyed plain cotton fabrics with an average -width of 32 inches and a length of 32 yards per piece. - - -=Resist or Reserve Printing.=--This style of printing is a process -used to obtain white figures on a coloured ground by means of -printing the designs in substances that are impervious to the dye -into which the cloth so printed is subsequently placed. The cloth -is dyed, but all parts of it which were covered by the resist agent -remain white. - - -=Reversible Cretonnes.=--The salient features of Cretonnes are -the bold type of highly coloured designs with which the fabric is -ornamented through printing. The weave employed for this style of -fabric is either plain, twill, satin, or oatmeal weave; the width of -the material varies from 25 to 50 inches. Sometimes, though rarely, -a small brocaded effect of fancy weave is introduced. Reversible -Cretonnes differ from ordinary Cretonnes in that they are printed on -both sides of the fabric. A recent variety of Reversible Cretonne, -called a Shadow Cretonne, is purely a warp-printed fabric, sometimes -containing yarn-dyed threads. A Cretonne printed with the same -design on face and back would be known as a Reversible Cretonne, -whilst the same fabric printed with one pattern on the face and a -different pattern on the back would be known as a Duplex Printed -Cretonne. - - -=Rib.=--The name given to any kind of cord effect or to a weave in -which either, owing to the interlacing or to the yarns used, warp -or weft is the stronger and remains comparatively straight while -the weaker does all the bending. Thus, in warp ribs the weft is the -stronger and causes the warp to bend and form a warp surface rib -running from selvedge to selvedge, while in weft ribs the warp is the -stronger and develops a weft surface rib running lengthways of the -piece. - - -=Rib Crape Effect.=--This term is used to designate the effect -produced by breaking up the regular order of weave so as to produce a -warp-rib effect on a fabric which is of the Crape variety, the crape -weave being distinguishable by the interlacing of warp and weft in -a more or less mixed or indiscriminate order, so as to produce an -appearance of a finely broken character. Rib crape effect is found in -fabrics known as Crepoline. - - -=Richelieu Rib.=--Applied to women's plain stockings having a single -drop-stitch at intervals of three-quarters of an inch running the -full length of the stocking. - - -=Right and Wrong Side of Fabrics.=--In certain goods it is difficult -to tell the right from the wrong side. In plain worsteds the diagonal -ought always to run from right to left, that being the right side. -In all textiles which are not reversible, but are similar on both -sides, the right side can be detected by the quantity of down, which -is less on the right side than the wrong side. To determine this it -is often necessary to hold the cloth under examination to the light. -When both sides are well finished, but with different patterns, it -is the neater of the two which is generally the right side. In a -comprehensive way, shaving and neatness indicate the right side. - - -=Ring-spun Yarn.=--Ring-spun cotton yarn is generally a harder spun -thread than mule-twist, which is more fibrous and more elastic. -Ring-spun yarn will not take up as much "size" as the more fibrous -and softer spun thread of the mule. - -Ring-spun yarn is rounder than a mule-spun thread. Ring-spinning -differs from mule-spinning in this essential: the former is spun on -the "continuous system" upon spindles that are fixed, whereas in -mule-spinning the spindles are mounted on a carriage which moves -backwards and forwards for a distance of some 5 feet. When the -spindles reach their greatest distance the rolls producing the yarn -are automatically stopped, and the thread that has been spun during -the outward move of the carriage is wound on the spindles while the -carriage is being moved back toward the rolls. - - -=Robes.=--A name given to printed twill cotton fabrics made from -64-square printing cloth. Originally made for use as wraps, they were -made in Cashmere effects. Now, although made in large bright-coloured -furniture coverings, curtains, etc., they still retain the name Robes -when made from 64-square printing cloth. - - -=Russian Cloth (Woollen).=--An all-wool fabric, plain woven from -a wool weft and wool warp, the weave being a plain one-over and -one-under weave. Owing to the finish of the cloth, the weave is -non-apparent. It varies in width from 54 to 74 inches and in length -from 19 to 36 yards. It does not differ materially from Broad, -Medium, and Habit Cloth. Average value for period 1904 to 1914, 4_s._ -3_d._ per yard. - - -=Russian Prints.=--This class of fabric does not differ materially -from any other print. They originate in Odessa, whence they come by -steamer to Chinese ports or to Vladivostock, from which points the -majority are brought overland into Manchuria. Many of the designs on -Russian Prints are similar to those on American prints. Measuring -24/25 or 26 inches wide, 88 by 68 or 88 by 64 ends and picks, and 30 -yards per piece, they are generally packed 30, 40, and sometimes 60 -pieces to a bale. On the whole, Russian Prints are not a high-grade -material. - - -=Samples and their Classification.=--Unless some definite system, -which provides means for ready reference to any of the individual -samples forming part of the collection, is adopted from the very -start, sample collections are of comparatively small value. The -successive pasting into a book of samples which represent fabrics of -different materials, different weaves, and different finishes--and -under the heading "finishes" would be included dyeing, printing, -embossing, etc.--is of no great value, for it becomes impossible -after a time to readily turn up any given sample. Even with an index -to the collection so formed it is only possible to turn up a sample -of material the name of which is known. A person wishing to turn up -in such a collection a sample of a certain type of fabric the name -of which he did not know at the time could not do so, and the more -specimens or samples were added to the collection the more difficult -it would become to turn up a given sample, and the value of the -collection would lessen instead of increase. - -If fabrics are divided into 17 headings representing the main -divisions into which they may be classed, and each division or -section is subdivided into numbered sub-sections, the task becomes -simpler, and there results therefrom a series of key-numbered -collections each containing samples of fabrics of a similar type -but of varying quality and value. Each collection (or sub-section) -becomes known by a combination of two numbers, one of which is -the main division or section number and the other the number of -that particular sub-section. These numbers precede the name of the -division and the name of the subdivision. - -The 17 main divisions or groups, together with their respective -subdivisions, which will in practice be found to be ample are as -follow:-- - - SECTION NUMBER. SUB-SECTION NUMBER. - ---- ---- - { 1. Shirtings and Sheetings. - { 2. Drills and Jeans. - 1. Grey Cottons { 3. Shirtings and Sheetings, Native. - { 4. Drills and Jeans, Native. - { 5. Not specially enumerated. - - { 1. Plain. - { 2. Plain (with finish). - { 3. Brocades. - { 4. Brocades (with finish). - { 5. Striped or Spotted Shirting. - 2. White Cottons. { 6. Striped or Spotted Shirting - { (with finish). - { 7. Crimps and Crapes. - { 8. Crimps and Crapes (with - { finish). - { 9. Lenos. - { 10. Not specially enumerated. - - { 1. Plain. - { 2. Plain (with finish). - { 3. Furnitures. - { 4. Crapes. - { 5. Crimps. - 3. Printed Cottons. { 6. Muslins, Lawns, and Cambrics. - { 7. Lenos and Balzarines. - { 8. Duplex or Reversible. - { 9. Blue and White _T_-Cloth. - { 10. Not specially enumerated. - - { 1. Plain. - { 2. Plain (with finish). - { 3. Crimps. - { 4. Crimps (with finish). - { 5. Drills, Twills, and Jeans. - 4. Dyed Plain Cottons. { 6. Lawns, Muslins, and Cambrics. - { 7. Hongkong-dyed. - { 8. Lenos and Balzarines. - { 9. Native. - { 10. Native (with finish). - { 11. Not specially enumerated. - - { 1. Figured. - { 2. Figured (with finish). - 5. Dyed Figured Cottons { 3. Native. - { 4. Native (with finish). - { 5. Not specially enumerated. - - { 1. Plain. - { 2. Dyed. - { 3. Printed. - { 4. Duplex Printed. - 6. Raised Cottons. { 5. Dyed and Printed. - { 6. Dyed and Duplex Printed. - { 7. Yarn-dyed. - { 8. Figured White. - { 9. Not specially enumerated. - - { 1. Plain. - { 2. Plain (with finish). - { 3. Figured. - { 4. Figured (with finish). - 7. Coloured Woven { 5. Crimps. - (_i.e._, yarn-dyed) { 6. Crimps (with finish). - Cottons { 7. Plain Native. - { 8. Plain Native (with finish). - { 9. Figured Native. - { 10. Figured Native (with finish). - { 11. Not specially enumerated. - - { 1. Plain. - { 2. Plain (with finish). - { 3. Crimps. - { 4. Crimps (with finish). - 8. Dyed and Printed Cottons { 5. Figured. - { 6. Figured (with finish). - { 7. Native. - { 8. Not specially enumerated. - - { 1. Plain. - { 2. Printed or Embossed. - 9. Velvets and Velveteens { 3. Embroidered. - (Cotton). { 4. Dyed Cords and Corduroys. - { 5. Undyed Moleskins. - { 6. Not specially enumerated. - - { 1. Plain Pure Silk. - { 2. Figured or Embossed. - { 3. Silk Seal (with cotton back). - { 4. Silk with cotton back. - 10. Plushes and Velvets { 5. Silk mixed with other fibrous - { materials (with cotton - { back). - { 6. All-cotton Plush (including - { with finish). - { 7. Not specially enumerated. - - { 1. Plain. - { 2. Figured. - { 3. Plain Native. - 11. Silk Piece Goods { 4. Figured Native. - { 5. Ribbons (all silk and mixtures). - { 6. Not specially enumerated. - - 12. Silk and Cotton Fabrics { 1. Plain. - { 2. Figured. - - { 1. Plain. - { 2. Figured. - { 3. Poncho Cloth. - 13. Woollen and Cotton { 4. Spanish Stripes. - Mixtures { 5. Union Cloth. - { 6. Plain Lustres. - { 7. Figured Lustres. - { 8. Not specially enumerated. - - { 1. Habit, Medium, Russian, and - { Broad Cloth. - { 2. Bunting. - { 3. Camlets, Dutch. - 14. Woollen Fabrics { 4. Camlets, English. - { 5. Flannel. - { 6. Lastings (all kinds). - { 7. Spanish Stripes. - { 8. Long Ells. - { 9. Not specially enumerated. - - 15. Linen and Linen Unions { 1. Plain. - { 2. Figured. - - 16. Hemp and Hemp Mixtures { 1. Plain and Figured. - { 2. Yarn-dyed. - - 17. Miscellaneous. - -Whether the loose-leaf system with folders to contain the samples is -used or whether they are entered into special books is a matter for -the individual, but the loose-leaf or card-index system with folder -is infinitely preferable, admitting of the removal of any given -sample for reference or comparison. The index to such a collection -of samples would be alphabetical (even though not absolutely so), -and if a sample of Italian (of the plain variety) were added to the -collection, it would be added under section 4, Dyed Plain Cottons. -If the sample of Italian thus added to the collection was the fifth -sample of Dyed Plain Cottons (with finish), it would appear in the -index to the sample collection under 1 and would be entered as -follows:-- - - NAME OF FABRIC. SECTION SUB-SECTION SAMPLE - NUMBER. NUMBER. NUMBER. - ---- ---- ---- ---- - Italian 4 2 5 - -A sample of Bunting, on the other hand, would be filed under section -14, sub-section 2; and if it were the thirty-first sample filed under -that sub-section, it would be indexed under the letter B as Bunting, -14: 2: 31. - -This decimal system of numbering and classifying samples lends itself -to a refinement of subdivision unattainable in any other. - -Generally speaking, samples, unless accompanied by certain -descriptive information, are of little value, and care should be -taken to describe briefly any salient feature connected with the -fabric. This information may concern either the trade-mark, the -importer, the value, or the date when the sample was entered into -the collection, and brief particulars of the shipment of which it is -a sample. This kind of information is of material value where the -sample concerns a class, style, or quality of fabric not hitherto -met with. With a comparatively small amount of trouble it would be -possible to get together very valuable collections of samples. And -if the individual would but give a little time and thought to the -question of textile samples, and but a tithe of the time devoted to -any hobby he may have, he will be amply repaid by the added knowledge -he will acquire. All samples should be of uniform size (7 inches by -4 inches will be found a very useful size) and should invariably be -in duplicate--one to use in obtaining all particulars necessary -for classification and the other for the actual sample collection. -Weave structure, nature of yarns, etc., may be studied and tests for -components made and recorded. - -Nothing will give a better idea of relative values of fabrics than -knowledge of components, style of weave, etc. This, of course, -does not apply to extrinsic values, _i.e._, values due to fashion, -exclusive designs, or proprietary articles. There is nothing to go by -in such cases better than market values; but in the plainer staples -knowledge of construction, finish, etc., means ability to classify -fabrics and estimate their approximate relative values. - -Provisions for an index to sample collection have been made at the -end of this book, enabling the ready adoption of the system now -advocated. - - -=Sateens.=--This material is a light-weight cotton fabric finished -to imitate Silk Satin. In weaving Cotton Sateens the same style -of weave is adopted as in weaving Silk Satin, the object aimed at -being an even, close, smooth surface and one capable of reflecting -light to the best advantage. In a "warp sateen" weave the warp only -appears on the surface, the filling or weft threads being effectually -and completely hidden by the warp threads. In passing over the -filling the warps do not interweave at regular, but at irregular, -intervals--thus they may pass over five, eight, ten, twelve, or -sixteen, then under one and over eight more, and so on. Sateens -average 30 inches wide and from 30 to 60 yards in length per piece. - -Sateens are woven on the same principle as Italians. The common -Sateen cloth is produced on a "five threads and picks" system. -Sateens are woven either as "Warp Sateen" or "Weft Sateen"; the -peculiarities of these weaves are given under those headings. - - -=Satin.=--A term applied to silk goods woven on the same principle as -Sateens, either Warp Sateens or Weft Sateens. In weaving most silk -fabrics the warp and weft, or filling, are made to intersect each -other every alternate time (as in plain weaving) or every third or -fourth time in regular order (as in ordinary or plain twill weaving). -In weaving Satin the same style of weave is adopted as in weaving -Cotton Sateens, the object aimed at being an even, close, smooth -surface and one capable of reflecting light to the best advantage. In -a warp-weave Satin the warp only appears on the surface, the filling -or weft threads being effectually and completely hidden. In passing -over the filling the warps do not interweave at regular intervals; -thus, they may pass over five, eight, ten, twelve, or sixteen, then -under one and over eight more, and so on. Common Satin is what is -technically known as an eight-leaf twill, the order in which the -filling thread rises being once in eight times. The filling in the -better qualities of Satin is of silk, whilst in the lower grades of -this fabric cotton is generally used for the filling. Rich Satins -may be woven on almost any number from five to twenty leaf twills. -Satin at the time of leaving the loom has a somewhat flossy and rough -surface--this is removed by passing the fabric over heated metal -cylinders, which destroy the minute fibrous ends and increase the -brilliance of the silk. Black Satins are often woven with a selvedge -which is of a different colour to the piece. - - -=Satin Drill.=--When a Drill is woven with a warp-faced sateen weave -it is known as a Satin Drill, to distinguish it from a Drill woven -with a twill weave, which is known as a Florentine Drill. - - -=Satin Weave.=--In weaving a satin design the filling thread is -made to pass under one and over eight, ten, twelve, or a greater or -lesser number of warp threads, and the order in which this is done -is irregular. The filling by this process is thus placed practically -all on the face of the cloth, and this style of weave is sometimes -called a filling-face satin weave. By reversing the process and -bringing practically all the warp to the surface or face of the cloth -a warp-face satin is produced. Cloth produced by this system of -weave has a close, smooth surface reflecting light to a high degree -and giving it the appearance of Satin Cloth, a fabric which is best -described as a cloth made of silk woven with a satin weave. - - -=Satinet or Satinette.=--An imitation of the true or Silk Satin woven -from mercerised cotton or other yarns. It is similar to Sateen, -but somewhat lighter in weight. The term is used to describe the -four-shaft satin weave, which does not fulfil the conditions of the -real Satin as regards the order of intersection of warp and weft. - - -=Schreiner Finish.=--This, like all other special finishes, is -the result of a process through which a fabric is passed with -the view of rendering its face more lustrous, _i.e._, capable of -better reflecting light and hence having a more silky appearance. A -Schreiner finish is given to a woven cloth by means of a specially -engraved steel roller. This roller is engraved with minute lines -running parallel to each other. When this roller has been suitably -heated and set with the right amount of pressure the cloth is run -between it and a plain backing roller. The engraved roller which -comes in contact with the cloth impresses on it minute lines, which -can readily be distinguished by means of a counting-glass. - -In America a Schreiner finish is often known as a "milled" finish. - - -=Scribbled.=--When any two or more kinds of fibres have been -thoroughly mixed together prior to being spun into a thread they are -said to be "scribbled." - - -=Seamless.=--Applied to hosiery knitted in one piece on a circular -machine, leaving an opening at the toe to be looped together. The -shaping of the leg, heel, and toe is done by steaming and then drying -on boards of proper form. - - -=Seamless Bags.=--All-cotton bags woven on looms which automatically -measure the length of what is practically a tubular cloth required -for each bag. What are virtually two cloths are "condensed" and woven -together to form the bag bottom. In forming the body of the bag the -loom weaves two fabrics, one over the other, and in weaving the -bottom these are combined into one. - - -=Selvedge.=--The edge of any piece of woven fabric. The term is -synonymous with "list." The warp threads which go towards the weaving -of selvedges are in some cases made of a stronger material than that -used for the bulk of the fabric. Folded yarns are often used for -this purpose, because during the process of weaving single selvedge -yarns are liable to break out oftener than any other, generally on -account of the pulling action of the weft thread in the shuttle as it -is "picked" across. This is more particularly the case with cottons. -Selvedges are that part of the fabric by which it is held out in a -stretched position in many of the stages of finishing. In the textile -trade generally it is often stated that "a good selvedge shows a good -cloth." Velvets and Velveteens that are mounted on iron frames, to -which they are attached by means of series of hooks penetrating the -selvedges, have these selvedges reinforced by stronger warp threads. - -Selvedges, or lists, of a colour different but of a material similar -to that of the bulk of the fabric denote that the fabric has been -woven of dyed yarns and that it has not been piece-dyed. Obviously, -if piece-dyed, the selvedge would be of the same colour as the bulk -of the fabric. Distinctive styles of selvedges have given rise -to special names of fabrics, such as Spanish Stripes. The actual -quality of a fabric cannot be always told by the selvedge, but other -conditions being equal, it then becomes a good guide to quality. A -silk selvedge thread or threads, or the initials of the manufacturer -in silk, appearing on the selvedge of an all-wool fabric generally -denotes a superior quality of fabric. The following, from a work -dealing with cotton fabrics, shows the generally accepted value of -selvedges as an indication of quality: "Advertising has educated the -retail dealers and consumers to the fact that cotton warp goods with -a white selvedge, the ground being of colour, are more to be depended -upon not to crock than similar cloths of solid colour." - - -=Serge (Cotton).=--All all-cotton fabric woven with a decided twill -and having a special finish imitating wool; usually printed with -hair-line stripes to imitate woven effects. - - -=Shadow Cretonne.=--A fabric of comparatively recent creation having -as a distinctive feature the design printed on the warp threads. The -filling is generally white, but is sometimes yarn-dyed to a shade -approximating the general tone of the large floral decorations which -are generally used in this class of fabric. The warp threads take the -colouring matter in such a way that when woven the design or pattern -appears equally on both sides of the fabric in somewhat blurred -and softened tones. From the fact that the fabric is reversible, -_i.e._, shows a design on both sides, it has sometimes been called -a Reversible Cretonne, but the true Reversible Cretonne is the -result of printing on a woven fabric and not on the warp threads -only prior to weaving. The blurred effect, resembling that of a -fabric which might have run in the washing, is at times intensified -by the introduction here and there of yarn-dyed warp threads of -solid colour. They are not always an all-cotton fabric; flax enters -sometimes into their composition. - - -=Shantung.=--The real Shantung is a Chinese silk fabric of the Pongee -class. This fabric has now been imitated in cotton yarns suitably -finished. The yarns used in imitation Shantung are spun with thick -soft places at irregular intervals in the yarn; this irregularity is -more noticeable in the filling yarns. - - -=Sheeting.=--A light or medium weight plain-woven all-cotton fabric -woven from coarse or medium yarns. The name applies to both bleached -and unbleached cloth. Under the heading "Grey Sheeting" will be -found a description of the two distinct varieties of fabric known as -Sheeting. In the trade it would appear that, should a Sheeting be -dyed or printed, it is never sold as a Sheeting, but under some other -name. - - -=Shirtings.=--A generic term applied to any material originally and -usually employed for the making of shirts and covering such varieties -as Grey, Harvard, Oxford, Zephyr, Sateen, Grandelle, etc. The term -Shirting, if used by itself, would in most instances be used with -reference to the Grey Shirting so largely exported from England and -America. This Grey Shirting is a plain-woven cloth of low-quality and -heavily sized yarns which has not been bleached. - - -=Short Stick.=--This term implies a yard of precisely 36 inches, in -opposition to the term "long stick," which is by trade custom a yard -of 36½ inches in length. - - -=Shot.=--A weaving term having the same value as "pick." When a -fabric is described as having so many "shots" to the inch it means -that there are so many weft threads to the inch. When used to -describe a colour effect in fabrics, it applies to fabrics which are -woven with different coloured warp and weft, and which, according to -the way they are held when looked at, appear to change in colour. - - -=Sicilienne.=--A Mohair of heavy weight. - - -=Silence Cloth.=--A heavy all-cotton backed fabric, used to cover the -table under the linen cloth, to withstand heat or to prevent damage -to the finish of the table. Made in widths from 54 to 64 inches. The -fabric is a double fabric, reversible, and made from coarse yarns; it -is also known as Table Felting. - - -=Silesia.=--A cotton fabric woven with a twill or sateen weave, -usually printed in stripes and highly finished. The high finish -found in this class of fabric is often a "Beetle" finish imparted to -the fabric after weaving by subjecting it to a rapid succession of -elastic blows from a series of hammers whilst the fabric is wound -upon a cast-iron beam. Generally woven as a three-shaft twill from -single 30's to 40's in warp and filling so as to produce a 45-degree -right-hand twill. Silesia is essentially a tailoring fabric used for -linings. A variety of yarn-dyed striped Silesia is also on the market. - - -=Silk Beaver.=--Silk Beaver is a pile fabric woven so as to imitate -the prepared fur of the beaver. Like many other fabrics of this -style the pile is all silk and the foundation cloth or back is all -cotton. This fabric appears to be dyed invariably a rich brown, and -this differentiates it from such similar fabrics as Silk Seal, which -are dyed black. The quality of Silk Beaver depends upon the depth -and closeness of pile. If looked at from behind, the pile threads -will distinctly show as small shiny spots where they are bound into -the back. The closer these little silk dots are to each other the -heavier the pile and the better the quality. The value prior to -1914 ranged from 5_s._ to 12_s._ per yard but has since increased. -The pile may have a length of as much as half an inch in the best -grades. Generally framed in lengths of from 30 to 33 yards. As this -is bulky material when framed, the landed cost in the East is greatly -increased. Average width, 48 to 50 inches. - - -=Silk Gingham.=--This class of fabric is similar to Gingham, Madras, -Madras Gingham, Zephyr, etc., except that the fabric contains more -or less silk in the filling. It sometimes happens that through -inadvertence such material is found described simply as a Gingham, -hence the presence of silk should be looked for in goods so described. - - -=Silk Mull.=--Like Mull, this fabric is a plain-woven, soft-finished -material, but is made from cotton warp and silk filling and is -generally finished undyed. Silk Mull is finer in texture than Cotton -Mull. The silk filling used in this fabric is raw silk, viz., tram -silk. - - -=Silk Pongee.=--A light-weight fabric made of the silk produced by -wild silkworms that feed on oak leaves. - -Pongee is a soft, unbleached, washable silk, shipped from China -to Europe in large quantities, where it is bleached, dyed, and -ornamented in various styles of designs. The name is also applied -to a variety of dress goods made in Europe woven with a wild-silk -warp and a fine worsted weft. This material is of comparatively -recent make and is made mostly with narrow stripes, produced by the -insertion of certain yarn-dyed threads. - - -=Silk Seal (Cotton Back).=--This is an imitation fur fabric made in a -range of quality, length, and closeness of pile. In this fabric the -pile only is of silk, the foundation cloth being all cotton. - -Silk Seal might be mistaken for Silk Beaver if not judged from the -point of view of colour. Silk Seal is black, Silk Beaver is brown. -There is a variety of this fabric known as a Fancy Silk Seal, similar -in construction and components but having stamped in outline by means -of rollers a design resembling the irregular scales on a crocodile's -skin. Along the lines demarcating these scales the pile has been -crushed and fixed down by heat. This fabric is not a true Silk Seal. -Quality in this, as in other pile fabrics, depends on the closeness -and depth of the pile. There is a possibility of mistaking Silk Seal -with cotton back for a Silk Plush with cotton back, but generally the -pile of Plush is shorter than that of Silk Seal. Average width, 48 to -50 inches. - - -=Silk Yarns.=--There are two distinct classes of silk yarns, _i.e._, -(_a._) pure, or net, silk and (_b._) spun silk. - -(_a._) _Net Silk Yarns._--These are constructed from fibres -reeled straight from the cocoon, and in the case of organzine (or -warp) yarns three to eight fibres are lightly twisted together; -subsequently, two or more of these compound threads ("singles" as -they are termed) are folded together to form the silk yarn employed -as warp. Weft yarns, known as tram silk, are made from two or more -strands, each made from three to twelve cocoon fibres, which have -not undergone any preliminary twisting, so that tram silk is much -straighter, softer, and more lustrous than organzine. - -(_b._) _Waste and Spun Silk Yarns._--The fibre is obtained from -"pierced" cocoons, _i.e._, cocoons through which the silk moth has -forced a way at the time of emerging from same, also from "wild" -cocoons. The low qualities are short-fibred and are only suitable for -weft yarns, while the longer drafts produce higher quality yarns well -suited for warp. - -Counts of spun silk are based upon two distinct systems of numbering. -In the French system the number is based on the singles, by metres -per kilogramme; two and three cord yarns have one-half, one-third, -etc., the length the numbers indicate thus:-- - - No. 100 singles has 100,000 metres per kilogramme. - " 2/100 " 50,000 " " - " 3/100 " 33,333 " " - -The other and more general system is the English. The hank is 840 -yards and the number of the hanks in 1 pound avoirdupois is the count -of the yarn. It is based on the finished yarn, and singles and two -and three cord yarns of the same number have all the same number of -yards per pound. Thus:-- - - No. 50 singles has 42,000 yards per pound. - " 50/2 " 42,000 " " - " 50/3 " 42,000 " " - - -=Sliver.=--A continuous strand of cotton or other fibre in a loose, -untwisted condition, ready for the further process of slubbing or -roving, preparatory to being spun. - - -=Spanish Stripes, Cotton.=--A plain-woven all-cotton fabric, -sometimes woven from dyed yarns, but oftenest met with as a -piece-dyed material woven with a simple one-over and one-under weave. -The selvedge is often woven with black warp threads to the width of -about 1 inch. The filling weft threads are soft and full, the warp -threads are much finer and hard-twisted. The surface is raised and -the general appearance of the fabric is similar to Flannelette. Often -met with in bright vermilion. Average width, 56 inches; length, 25 -yards per piece; and value (nominal), 7_d._ per yard. - - -=Spanish Stripes, Woollen.=--Essentially an all-wool fabric, free -from any ornamentation of weave, printing, or embossing, this class -of fabric is woven with a plain one-over and one-under weave. Soft -of handle, Spanish Stripes are generally dyed bright red and have as -a distinguishing feature a selvedge of coarser warp threads from 1½ -to 2 inches in width, some of which are dyed, prior to weaving, a -different colour (generally black) to the rest of the warp threads or -weft filling threads. These coloured warp threads go towards making -generally three separate coloured stripes in the selvedge and have -given rise to the name of this particular fabric. In width measuring -up to 62 inches and with a length of 29 to 30 yards per piece, -Woollen Spanish Stripes are met with in a limited range of quality -and the average price of same taken over the period 1904 to 1914 was -1_s._ 8½_d._ per yard. - - -=Spanish Stripes, Wool and Cotton.=--This class of fabric, being -a mixture and not a union fabric, answers to the description of -a Woollen Spanish Stripe but differs from it in that it is woven -from yarns which are composed of a mixture of wool and cotton. The -"handle" is very nearly that of an all-wool fabric, the average -width some 62 inches, and the length per piece 29 to 30 yards. The -distinctive selvedge of this class of fabric is maintained in the -wool and cotton variety. - - -=Split Foot.=--Refers to black or coloured hosiery having a white or -unbleached sole. - - -=Sponge Cloth.=--A fine cotton or wool fabric having a surface -resembling that of a small sponge. - - -=Spun Silk.=--Applied to a low grade of silk used in the cheaper -lines of silk hosiery. It is made from floss, injured cocoons, husks, -and waste from reeling, and bears the same relation to silk as cotton -waste to cotton or shoddy to wool. - - -=Staples.=--Staples is a term used to designate those fabrics which -are woven in the same way year after year, varying only in the -colouring given to them, which may change in accordance with the -demands of fashion and of the buyer. - -The principal dress goods staples are Brilliantines, Sicilians, -Mohairs, Imperial Serges, Storm Serges, Cheviots, Panamas, Batistes, -Taffetas, Voile, Muslins, Nun's Veiling, Cashmere, and Shepherd's -Checks. - - -=Surah.=--A light, soft, twilled silk. - - -=Swansdown.=--Like Cotton Flannel and Flannelette, Swansdown is a -fabric made of cotton with a "raised" or "napped" surface. Being -raised but on the back of the cloth, it is "single raised": heavy and -closely woven Swansdown is a typical raised cotton cloth. The weave -is on the satin-weave principle. - - -=Swiss Embroidery.=--This process of ornamentation closely resembles -lappet spots, but, unlike lappet spots, they are in reality the -result of a subsequent process of weaving. The essential difference -in the manner of attaching the thread which is used for the figuring -to the cloth can readily be seen. In Swiss Embroidery there is an -equal amount of floating thread used to form the spot on the face of -the cloth and on the back, thus producing what may be termed a solid -spot on both sides and therefore reversible. - - -=Swivel Figures.=--High-class fabrics are often ornamented with -swivel spots and figures, which are easily distinguished from the -lappet or extra warp figures. In this style the figure is interwoven -with extra weft by small shuttles into the ground cloth structure. -Each figure is produced by an independent weft thread quite distinct -from the weft pick forming the ground structure or body of the -fabric. The figure threads are well bound into the cloth, the bulk of -the material being on the surface. Where no figure is required in the -space between, the shuttles remain idle in the loom, and the single -thread from each shuttle joining the swivel figures is often cut -away. Often used where a silk figure or a mercerised cotton figure is -required on a cotton or worsted ground. - - -=Tapestry.=--A yarn-dyed figured fabric composed of two sets of warp -and weft threads, woven on a Jacquard loom. - - -=T-Cloth.=--An all-cotton plain-woven fabric, usually woven from -low-quality yarns, generally sold in the grey or unbleached state. -Most of the _T_-Cloth imported into China is a heavily sized cheap -grey cloth, usually 30 to 32 inches wide, 24 yards per piece, with -a woven coloured heading somewhat similar to the heading in Grey -Shirtings. Some _T_-Cloth is imported measuring 36 inches wide by 24 -or 40 yards per piece. These Grey _T_-Cloths are generally packed 50 -to 75 pieces per bale. Bleached _T_-Cloths, 31 and 36 inches wide, -are also imported in small quantities. These are generally packed -in cases of 50 pieces. The fabric derives its name from the mark -@T@ under which it was first exported. _T_-Cloth is also known -as "Mexican." - - -=Teasels, or Teazels.=--Thistleheads with curved bracts, used in -cloth raising. - - -=Terry Cloth.=--A weave in looped effect. A Velvet in which the loops -have not been cut. Frequently applied to cotton fabrics of the order -of Agaric and Sponge Cloth. _See_ Turkish Towelling. - - -=Tests by Burning.=--Yarns or fibres of different origin burn in -different manner. Cotton, linen, ramie, rhea, china grass, etc., -ignite and burn readily with a bright smokeless and odourless flame, -leaving but a small amount of ash, this being the characteristic -of vegetable fibres. Animal fibres, on the other hand, are slower -to ignite, the appearance of the flame is lifeless, and the fibres -burn more slowly than vegetable fibres. Wool, when burnt, emits -a disagreeable odour, and the residue or ash takes the form of a -bead or knob. Silk burns in the same way as wool when it is free of -"weighting." When artificially weighted, silk may have its weight -increased to almost any desired extent--from 80 to 200 per cent. -increase in weight can be obtained without creating suspicion. When -such weighted silk is burnt, instead of forming itself into small -black beads or knobs, it burns leaving a distinct ash, which retains -somewhat the shape of the original material. Artificial or cellulose -silk burns readily and in burning does not give off any odour. - - -=Test for Artificial Silk.=--The burning test should in most cases -be sufficient to distinguish artificial from true silk, but if a -chemical test is necessary, by immersing the suspect sample in a -caustic potash solution it will be seen that artificial silk turns -yellow, whereas true silk does not change colour. Artificial silk, -which is a nitro-cellulose, burns very rapidly, leaving practically -no ash whatever. A simple way of recognising artificial silk is by -testing the threads under moisture. Unravel a few threads of the -suspected fabric and place them in the mouth and masticate them -thoroughly. Artificial silk readily softens under this operation and -breaks up into minute particles, and when pulled between the fingers -shows no thread, but merely a mass of cellulose or pulp. Natural -silk, no matter how thoroughly masticated, will retain its fibrous -strength. - - -=Tests for Linen.=--Linen, like cotton, burns when a light is -applied, leaving a white ash. Linen yarns are more irregular in their -thickness longitudinally than cotton thread taken from similar woven -fabrics. This difference makes the detection of linen in a woven -cloth comparatively easy. The fibres are straighter, longer, and -stronger when separated in the thread than cotton. The threads often -snap sharp and clear when breaking them in the fingers. The oil test -for linen is based upon the property which linen has of more readily -absorbing oil than cotton does. When a linen and cotton mixture -fabric which has been freed from dressing by washing and boiling is -dipped in oil and then held up to the light it will be seen that -the linen fibres look transparent, whereas the cotton remains more -nearly opaque. This is due to the linen having absorbed the oil more -readily than the cotton. All the cotton contained in a linen and -cotton fabric can be readily dissolved by dipping the fabric in a -concentrated sulphuric acid bath for one or two minutes. The sample -is first freed of dressing. After washing and drying a sample so -tested the linen fibre only will remain. - - -=Test for Mercerised Cotton.=--Prepare a solution made by dissolving -1¼ ounces of iodide of potassium in 5 ounces of water, then add to -this solution ½ ounce of iodine, and mix with another solution made -by dissolving 7½ ounces of zinc chloride in 3 ounces of water. The -test is applied as follows: take the suspect sample and free it from -any dressing or sizing by soaking it in water; then, after freeing -the sample from any superfluous water, place it in some of the -prepared solution for three minutes, and then rinse the sample in -water. Should the cotton tested have been mercerised it will appear -of a deep blue colour. On washing with water the blue colour fades -very slowly and needs long washing, whereas ordinary cotton rapidly -becomes white on washing. Even dyed piece goods will show the deep -blue reaction, which is the result of the testing solution acting -upon the caustic soda used in the process of mercerisation. When -making this test it is best to treat a "known" unmercerised cotton -at the same time as the suspect sample so as to have a basis for -comparison. - - -=Tests for Silk.=--If a silk and wool mixture or union fabric is -boiled in strong hydrochloric acid for 15 minutes, it will be found -that the wool merely swells, whilst the silk acted upon by the acid -completely dissolves. By careful weighing before and after the test -it becomes a matter of simple calculation to arrive at the percentage -of silk present in the fabric. - - -=Test for Wool.=--If a fabric suspected of containing wool and cotton -or other vegetable fibre is boiled for 15 minutes in a solution made -by dissolving either 1 ounce of caustic soda or caustic potash in a -pint of water it will be found that all the wool will be destroyed -and only the vegetable fibres remain. This test, which is based upon -the well-known fact that caustic soda dissolves wool, may be used to -ascertain the percentage of wool in a cloth if the sample tested is -thoroughly washed, dried, and weighed before the test is applied. -After testing and drying, the loss in weight represents the amount -of wool which was present and destroyed during the test. This test -may be reversed and the cotton destroyed by treating the sample with -an 80 per cent. sulphuric acid solution. This, however, is a longer -test, necessitating the sample being kept in the sulphuric acid -solution for about 10 or 12 hours. Prior to drying and weighing the -sample should be well washed in alcohol. - - -=Textile Fibres.=--The principal fibres which enter into the -construction of textiles can be divided into the following six -classes:-- - - _Vegetable._--Cotton, flax, ramie, rhea, china grass, jute, hemp, - kapok, and marine fibre. - - _Modification of Vegetable._--Mercerised cotton, artificial silk, - animalised cotton, artificial wool, paper yarn. - - _Animal._--Sheep's wool, mohair, cashmere, camel hair, alpaca, - vicuna, llama, guanaco, rabbit hair, horsehair, cow and calf hair. - - _Animal Secretions._--Silk and wild silk. - - _Mineral._--Asbestos. - - _Metallic._--Gold, silver, and other wires, metal-coated fibres. - - -=Thickset.=--One of the many varieties of Fustian, which comprise -Corduroys, Velveteens, Moleskins, Thickset, etc. - - -=Thread.=--In general, a twisted strand of cotton, flax, wool, -silk, etc., spun out to considerable length is called thread. In a -specific sense, thread is a compound cord consisting of two or more -yarns firmly united together by twisting. Thread made of silk is -technically known as sewing thread; that made of flax is known as -linen thread; while cotton thread intended for sewing is commonly -called spool cotton. These distinctions are generally observed by the -trade. - - -=Three-quarter Hose.=--A variety of ribbed-top stockings made for -children and reaching nearly to the knees. - - -=Ticks, or Ticking.=--Ticking is a single cloth of either medium or -heavy weight woven from cotton yarns of from 14's to 22's in warp -and filling or from yarns which would give the same weight material, -such as 18's warp and 20's filling. Usually woven with two-over-one -or three-over-one twill weave. Ticking belongs to the class of stiff, -hard-faced cotton fabrics. This feature is due to the warp-faced -twill weave. These goods are made usually in two coloured warp -patterns, dark blue and white and red and white. One feature which -is worthy of mention in regard to Ticking and other similar lines -is that they are to-day being stock-dyed in increasing quantities. -This method consists of dyeing the cotton or bleaching it, as the -case may be, in the raw state and then carding, drawing, and spinning -just as if a grey fabric were to be made. Stock-dyeing results in the -dye affecting the fibres which form the very centre of a yarn, and -for this reason is a better process than dyeing the finished yarn. -Brushed, sheared, sized, and calendered Ticking is either packed -lapped or rolled into bolts. - - -=Tire Cloth.=--A fabric made from strong slackly folded yarns of -good-quality cotton used in the lining of tires. The warp threads are -very closely set, so as best to withstand strain. The weft threads -are very openly set, so as to prevent undue pressure on the warp -threads, which should lie straight and so avoid friction or cutting -which might arise from the action of the inflated inner tube and the -tire whilst in use. The yarn used in this type of cloth is usually -made from 30's to 34's count, doubled 11 or 12 fold, necessitating -great care in the subsequent twisting to ensure evenness of strength -and elasticity, which in this class of cloth is essential. Tire -fabrics, as used in the manufacture of automobile and bicycle tires, -are made from long-staple Sea Island cotton, the yarn being combed -and of a comparatively coarse number, usually 8's to 40's, and from -single yarn to 12-ply. A wide range of weights is found in these -fabrics, varying from 3 to 20 ounces per square yard. This fabric -forms the base of the finished rubber tire. - - -=Tram.=--A thrown silk thread taking its name from the French -_trame_, meaning weft, softer and more flossy and having less twist -than organzine. It is generally used for weft, which, as it bears -little strain in weaving, need not be as strong as the warp, but -should be soft and bulky, so that when beaten in successive threads -will lie close together and fill up the interstices of the web. - -Tram and organzine are, with the exception of spun waste silk, the -only kinds of silk thread used for weaving--varying, however, in -quality of silk, amount of twist, and in size. - - -=Trunk Length.=--Applied to women's hosiery midway between ordinary -and opera length, usually widened gradually above the knee. - - -=Tubular Cloth.=--The most commonly met with examples of Tubular -Cloths are the ordinary pillow slip, tubular lampwick, tapes, etc., -which are in common use. - - -=Tulle.=--A plain, fine silk net. Practically the same as Maline. - - -=Turkish Towelling.=--Essentially Terry Cloth woven as an all-cotton -fabric having as a salient feature an uncut loop-pile surface. -Sold by the linear yard for the making of bath robes, etc. Woven -unbleached or with some coloured yarns for bordering effect and -subsequently bleached, the coloured yarns used resisting bleaching. -Otherwise woven in sizes suitable for cutting into lengths, which are -then sold as Turkish Towels. - - -=Tussore, or Tussah.=--The wild silk from which Shantung and Pongee -are made. Applied to these fabrics when heavily and coarsely woven. - - -=Tweed.=--Rough, unfinished fabric of soft, open, and flexible -texture, woven on a plain weave from wool or cotton and wool, usually -of yarn of two or more shades. Originally the product of the weavers -on the banks of the River Tweed. The face of the cloth presents -an unfinished appearance rather than a sharp and clearly defined -pattern. - - -=Twill Weave.=--A twill weave is a weave that produces diagonal lines -across the cloth. In this class of weave the filling threads pass -over one and under two, or over one and under three, four, five, or -six, or over two or three and under one, two, three, or four, or over -four and under four, three, six, etc. Where there are the same number -of warp and filling threads to the inch, twill lines will form an -angle of 45 degrees; if the warp threads are closer together than the -filling threads, the twilled lines produced will approach more the -horizontal. Twill weaving permits the introduction of more material -into the cloth than a plain weave and produces, therefore, a closer -and heavier fabric. A twill effect in a material is also called a -diagonal, from the direction it has in relation to the length of the -cloth. This diagonal effect is continually produced by the warp and -weft intersections traversing one thread and one pick further from -their respective positions each time a pick of weft is inserted. -Twill weaves may be divided into four common classes: (1) regular, -(2) broken, (3) fancy, (4) figured. - -_Regular Twills._--A regular twill is referred to as a twill of so -many "ends" or "shafts"; by this is meant a twill which contains a -number of warp and weft threads which, added together, equal the -number of "ends." Thus a five-end twill can either have (_a_) four -warps and one weft, (_b_) three warps and two wefts, or (_c_) two -warps and three wefts--this form of twill will be seen to be a -reverse weave to (_b_). - -_Broken Twills._--A twill effect produces a twill line which, when -the number of warp and weft threads are equal, is at an angle of 45 -degrees. In a broken twill effect this line, which may be compared to -the left-hand stroke of a letter @V@, is combined with another -twill line running in an opposite direction and which is simply a -turning or "reversing" of the threads in the regular twill weave. -Broken twill effect enters largely into the weave design of Harvard -Shirting. - -_Fancy Twills._--As the term indicates, fancy twills is a style -of weave which, whilst always retaining the main features and -essentials of a "regular" twill, has been made fancy by alternating -the arrangements of the thread and thus producing "elongated twills," -"corkscrew twills," or "combination twills." The description of fancy -twills could only be attempted by the use of illustrations and pages -of explanations. - -_Figured Twills._--Figured twills are regular twills with a small -figure introduced between the diagonal lines. The designs introduced -are generally small figures produced by plain weave or a small -diamond-shaped spot made by either the warp or the weft threads being -brought to the surface and made to form the design. The designs are -never very elaborate. - - -=Twin Needle.=--A double row of interlocked machine stitching used -for covering raw edges and seams of knit underwear. - - -=Unclassed Native Cotton Cloth (China).=--All Native Cotton Cloths, -whether woven on a hand or power loom, which are not-- - - (_a._) Nankeen as defined in Customs Notification No. 876 (_see_ - Nankeen); - - (_b._) Specially enumerated in the General Tariff of 1858 for the - Trade of China; or - - (_c._) the produce of a Privileged Factory and at the same time - enumerated in either the General Tariff of 1858 or the Revised - Import Tariff-- - -are grouped under the heading "Unclassed Native Cotton Cloth." This -group comprises:-- - - 1º. All cotton fabrics woven with a plain, satin, or twill weave - or a combination of these weaves, in part or whole, from yarns, - whether single or folded, which have been either mercerised, - gassed, dyed and mercerised, or dyed and gassed prior to weaving, - whether woven in a cloth having a solid colour effect or whether - woven so as to produce a striped or woven figured effect. - - 2º. All fabrics woven with a plain, satin, or twill weave or a - combination of these weaves from grey, white, or dyed yarns which - subsequent to weaving have been mercerised or dyed in the piece. - - 3º. Generally all cotton fabrics woven so as to imitate foreign - yarn-dyed fabrics, whether same are devoid of a raised finish - or have been raised on either back or face of the cloth, - irrespective of whether the yarn has or has not been mercerised - prior to weaving and irrespective of whether the cloth has or has - not been mercerised after leaving the loom. - -The term "=Native Cotton Cloth=" (China) is applied to hand-loom -fabrics other than Nankeen, unclassed native cotton cloths or fabrics -that are specifically enumerated in the General Tariff of 1858 for -the Trade of China. The name is given to a group of cloths which -answer to the following description:-- - - 1º. All hand-loom plain-weave fabrics which do not exceed 20 - inches in width woven from ordinary grey or white single cotton - yarn which have been piece-dyed after leaving the loom, but which - have not been either mercerised or gassed. - - 2º. All hand-loom plain-weave fabrics which do not exceed 20 - inches in width woven from ordinary grey or white single cotton - yarn which have been either resist, discharge, or direct printed - but which have not been either mercerised or gassed after leaving - the loom. - - -=Union Broadcloth.=--This fabric, also known under the name of Poncho -Cloth, is a plain-woven cotton warp and woollen weft fabric, woven in -the unusual width of 74 inches and averaging in length of piece from -36 to 38 yards. The selvedge of this class of fabric is distinctive, -showing a long unshorn hairy surface. The face of the cloth does -not show the weave or yarn intersection points, as it has a typical -Broadcloth finish, but these are distinctly to be seen on the back of -the fabric. A Union Broadcloth of the above description, typical of -that generally exported to China, averaged in value during the years -1904 to 1914 about 1_s._ 6_d._ per yard. - - -=Union Cloth.=--As the name implies, Union Cloths are woven with warp -and weft of different fibres. They are also called "mixed cloths," -and the union of the two different kinds of fibres may be arrived at -by intermingling the wool and cotton fibres to form the warp or weft -of a fabric or, as in most cases, each kind of fibre may be confined -to separate threads, forming part or the whole of the warp or weft. -Union Cloths are generally "cross-dyed," although they may also be -"dyed in the grey." In the case of "cross-dyeing," the cotton warp is -dyed the desired colour and interlaced with a wool weft, which is in -a grey or undyed condition, and subsequently the weft only is dyed, -this being possible as the affinity of cotton and wool are different. -When light colours are desired in the fabric the cotton warp and wool -weft are woven in a grey or undyed condition, and then both are dyed -in the fabric: this method is styled "dyeing in the grey." In some -cases the wool and cotton are treated separately, in others union -dyes are employed. - -The principal Union Cloths met with are: Brilliantines, Glacés, and -Sicilians, plain-weave materials with cotton warp and mohair weft; -Alpacas, plain or twill weave, cotton warp and alpaca weft; Lustres, -plain or twill weave, cotton warp and lustre or demi-lustre weft; -Italians, five-shaft weft, sateen weave, cotton warp, fine Botany -weft; Cashmeres, 2/1 weft twill weave, cotton warp, fine Botany weft; -Beatrice Twill, five-end (four weft and one warp) twill, cotton warp, -demi-lustre weft. All authorities do not agree as to what constitutes -a Union, the following definition having been met with: "Fabrics are -union when composed of two materials otherwise than by blending." -In the Morley (Yorkshire) trade a "Union" is a cotton warp cloth of -boiled and teazled finish superficially resembling Broadcloth. - - -=Union Yarns.=--These yarns, as the name indicates, are the product -of combining two or more different materials into a yarn, generally -wool and cotton or wool, and any of the many vegetable fibres capable -of being spun. - -Union Yarns may be produced by the mixing together of the two or more -different fibres when they are still in the state of loose fibres; -in such a case the cotton fibres act as binders upon the rest of the -fibres. When the various fibres are thoroughly mixed together, the -mixture obtained is spun: this produces the variety known as Carded -Union Yarns. Another form of Union Yarn is obtained by twisting -together two threads of different material. Some Union Yarns have -the appearance of pure wool threads, and only careful scrutiny will -reveal the presence of cotton fibre; this type of yarn is known by -the name of Angola yarn. - -Union Yarns, being composed of materials that are not affected by -dyes in the same way, can be recognised when found in a so-called -wool fabric from the fact that the wool in the yarn will have taken -up the dye, whereas the cotton will not have done so to the same -extent, but will have retained more or less its original colour. - - -=Velour.=--This name is given to a soft, thick, nappy flannel used in -the making of dressing-gowns, etc., made from either wool or cotton -or a combination of both. As a cotton fabric, it is of the coarse, -stiff, pile variety. The name is French for Velvet, hence its use -in connexion with a pile-surface fabric. As a woollen and worsted -term, there is a considerable diversity of opinion as to the precise -cloth designated by the term Velour. Some manufacturers would class -as Velours any cloth having a soft velvety nap, others make finer -distinctions, classing one as a "face-finished Cashmere," a second as -a "Saxony," with Velour slightly different from either of these. - - -=Velvet.=--This name is given to a pure all-silk pile fabric with -a pile weave, the distinctive feature of which is that the surface -consists of silk threads or fibres standing closely together like -the bristles in a brush. These threads appear as threads sheared -off smooth, so as to form a uniform or even surface. "All-silk" in -this definition of Velvet applies to the pile only, for Velvets are -so generally woven with a cotton back that a Silk Velvet should be -considered as having a cotton back unless specially designated as -"silk backed." - - -=Velvet Finish.=--A finish produced upon woollen fabrics by -wet-raising in various directions and subsequently cropping the pile -thus raised level, which leaves the velvet-finished material with a -fairly dense pile of a velvety appearance. - - -=Velvet of Silk mixed with other Fibres.=--This class of fabric -includes all pile fabrics which, in the first instance, answer to the -description of Velvet, _i.e._, have their pile shorter than that of -Plush, and the pile of which, whilst being partly of silk, contains -other animal fibres, such as wool or mohair, or even vegetable -fibres, such as cotton. Where it is clearly stipulated that they are -"Velvets of silk mixed with other fibres and having cotton backs," -the foundation cloth must not contain warp or weft threads wholly or -in part composed of any material other than cotton. - - -=Velveteen.=--This name is given to the class of fabrics that in -reality are but Cotton Velvets. Like true Velvets, they are woven -with a pile weave, the distinctive feature of which is that the -surface consists of threads or fibres standing closely together like -the bristles in a brush. These threads appear as threads sheared -off smooth, so as to form a uniform or even surface. Velveteens -are generally woven on the weft-pile basis, that is to say, that -the "pile floats" or "flushings" are produced with the weft -threads--which are afterwards cut--additional to and on a firmly -constructed woven ground texture. Weft pile can be recognised by -removing from the fabric a weft thread, when, upon withdrawing this -thread, it will be seen that the bits of "cut pile" are not looped -round it or attached to it but remain entangled among the warp -threads. Common Velveteen, which is "all cotton," will be identified -as a weft pile in this manner. Velveteens are also known as Velverets -or Fustians. Standard widths for Velveteens are 19 inches, 22½ -inches, 24½ inches, and 27½ or 28 inches. - - -=Venetians.=--A wool fabric, closely woven in a fine twill. As -applied to a cotton fabric, it is used to designate a heavy, -warp-face, Dress Satin (or Sateen) of strong texture and closely -woven, dyed in the piece, silky and lustrous in appearance. Light -weights would be sold as Sateen or Dress Sateen. Woven with about 200 -to 250 threads to the square inch, the style of weave in itself tends -to produce lustre; this is intensified by calendering and sometimes -by mercerising the fabric. The weave is of an upright warp twill -character, and the name was first applied to a dress face woollen -cloth; later, worsted dress Venetians were made, and later still the -name was applied to an all-cotton fabric of similar weave. - - -=Vesting (Vestings).=--A generic term embracing a wide range of -fabrics more or less ornamented, used in most countries for men's -vests, but used in China for either men's or women's outer or inner -garments. Fabrics of several combination of weaves showing fancy -stripes or small checkings, and often coloured to the extent of some -coloured warp threads appearing here and there on the surface and -left floating (where not used) on the back of the fabric are common -in this class of goods. This heading covers Welts, Piqué, Fancy -Piqué, etc. - - -=Vigogne.=--The French form of the word "vicuña"; applied to a soft -woollen dress material. - - -=Vigoreux.=--A worsted material, printed in the yarn so as to produce -a mélange, or mixture, effect in colouring. This differs from Beige -in that the yarns are printed before being spun, giving the finished -goods the appearance of having been woven from mixed yarns. - - -=Viyella.=--A light cloth, largely made from cotton and wool -scribbled together. It is similar to Ceylon Flannel and differs from -it only in name. This fabric is one of many known under "trade-marks -'patented' or 'registered' names," which are sometimes sufficiently -popular to embrace many different weaves under one head. - - -=Voile.=--This name is used to designate a more or less transparent -light fabric made generally of cotton. Woven with a square mesh -produced by plain one-over and one-under weaving, Voile averages 55 -meshes per inch, with an average width of 42 inches, and generally in -pieces of 60 yards. - -Voile when dyed is piece-dyed and not woven from yarn which was dyed -previously to being woven. The yarn used in the weaving of Voiles is -a hard-twisted yarn. - -Woollen Voiles are also woven, the characteristics being similar to -Cotton Voile, but in weaving Voiles with worsted yarns, if the yarn -is not very free from loose fibres, the fabric is finished by having -its face singed or sheared very close, so as to ensure a clear-faced -material. - - -=Wadding Pick.=--A thick weft thread of low quality inserted often -without interlacing between the two fabrics in a double cloth and -between the two warps in a warp-backed structure. This gives weight -and solidity to the fabric. The wadding pick remains out of sight, -and the appearance of the fabric is not affected thereby. - - -=Wale.=--This term has the same meaning as "warp welt," or "welt," -and is used to describe a fabric having thick raised cords at close -intervals. - - -=Warp.=--Warp is the name given to that set of threads that runs -lengthways of a piece of cloth. When the word "end" is used in -connexion with weaving, it always signifies the warp thread, while -each filling or weft thread is called a "pick." - - -=Warp Pile.=--Warp pile can be recognised by simply withdrawing -from the fabric being examined a few "picks," or weft threads. If -the material is a warp-pile weave, then it will be seen that the -loose bits of "cut pile" remain entangled or looped and adhering to -some of the drawn weft threads. This can be easily seen if a common -Velvet ribbon is experimented with, when, upon drawing out the weft -threads separately from selvedge to selvedge, it will invariably be -seen that each alternate weft thread will have the loose bits of "cut -warp pile" attached. Where the material is extra closely woven it is -possible for every weft thread that is withdrawn to have the loose -bits attached in the manner described. - -Warp-pile fabrics include two varieties, the "uncut pile," such as -Turkish or Terry Towels and Towelling, Brussels Carpets, Patent -Tapestry Carpets, etc., and "cut pile," like warp-pile Plushes, -Velvets, ribbons, etc. - - -=Warp Print.=--A fabric wherein the design, being printed on the -warps prior to weaving, appears somewhat faintly and in an indefinite -outline. _See_ Chiné. - - -=Warp Ribs.=--The term "warp ribs" is used to designate a -warp-surface weave in which, owing to the thickness of the weft -threads (or picks) or to the grouping together of a number of weft -picks, the warp threads are made to bend round them and, being thus -thrown to the surface of the fabric, produce a ribbed appearance -running from selvedge to selvedge in which the warp threads are on -the face of the fabric. Poplin is a typical warp-ribbed fabric. - - -=Warp Sateen.=--A common form of Cotton Sateen cloth is that woven -with a "warp sateen" weave on the five threads and picks system, -which results in four-fifths of the warp threads appearing on the -face of the fabric and therefore four-fifths of the weft threads -appear on the back of the fabric. The object of weaving on this -principle is to obtain a smooth cloth surface by distributing the -interlacing points and so destroying the common "twilled" effect. A -Warp Sateen will be much closer in the warp threads than in the weft -threads, and therefore stronger in that direction. - - -=Warp Welt.=--A fabric having thick raised cords at close intervals, -as in the case of Bedford Cords and Piqués. In cotton goods, when -the cords run lengthways of the piece, the fabric is known as a "warp -welt." Sometimes called "wale." - - -=Warp-faced Cloth.=--A fabric which shows on its face a greater -number of warp threads than "picks," or weft threads. - - -=Waste and Condenser Wefts.=--These are made from certain waste -cotton which accumulates in certain parts of the machinery during the -process of spinning yarn. This waste is treated by special machinery, -which spins it into a full, level, and soft yarn, which is used for -weft in weaving Sheetings. - - -=Waste and Flocks.=--Cotton mill waste is the by-product derived from -the cotton in its various processes through the mill. Each pound -of cotton before it becomes cloth loses on an average 15 per cent. -visible and invisible waste. The visible waste is of two kinds, hard -and soft; hard waste, which has been made on spinning and subsequent -machines, and which bears a slight twist; soft waste, which includes -that part of the fibre rejected by all machines up to the spinning -frame. The invisible waste is equal to the amount of evaporation of -moisture in the cotton during the process of manufacture. Flocks are -short fibres removed from cloth during the process of napping. - - -=Waste Cloths.=--Cotton fabrics woven from waste yarns, generally -plain woven and of low grade. The weft thread is coarse and is spun -from waste or short-fibre cotton. - - -=Watering.=--As a textile term, it is used to designate the process -whereby certain distinctive effects are produced on the face of -plain-woven fabrics--especially silks. The process of giving a wavy -or wave-like appearance in fabrics by either passing them through -suitably engraved metal rollers which, bearing unequally upon -the fabric, render the surface unequal, making it reflect light -differently. The same result is obtained by pressing two plain-woven -fabrics together, when the coarser weft threads of the fabric produce -the wave-like indentations on the face of the fabric it is pressed -against. A fabric is said to be "watered" when ornamented by either -of the above processes. The principle of this operation is that two -fabrics of precisely similar build, when pressed together, naturally -"water" each other, owing to the coincidence or non-coincidence of -the threads or picks causing flatness or ribbedness of a sufficiently -marked character under conditions of heat and pressure. "To tabby" is -another expression for "to water," and the adjective "tabby," usually -referring to a brindled cat, signifies streaked with wavy lines. - - -=Weaving.=--Every woven piece of cloth is made up of two distinct -systems of threads, known as the warp and the filling (this latter -is also known as weft), which are interlaced with each other to form -a fabric. The warp threads run lengthways of the piece of cloth, -and the filling, or weft, threads run across from side to side. -The manner in which the warp and filling interlace with each other -constitutes the weave. The term "end" in weaving is used to designate -the warp thread, while each weft or filling thread is called a -"pick." The fineness of a cloth is expressed by saying that it has -so many "ends" and "picks" to the inch. The character of the weave -offers the best basis for classification of woven goods, and nearly -all varieties of cloth may be classified under the following weaves:-- - - Plain weave. - Twill weave. - Satin weave. - Figure weave. - Double-cloth weave. - Pile weave. - Gauze weave. - Lappet weave. - - -=Web.=--Web is the name given to a piece of cloth at the moment it -is taken from the loom and previous to its having been treated to -produce the special feature of the class of cloth the web belongs to. - - -=Weft.=--When the word "weft" is used in connexion with weaving or -woven fabrics, it always signifies the filling threads, each of which -is also called a "pick." Weft threads run across the width of the -fabric. - - -=Weft Pile.=--Weft pile can be recognised by withdrawing from the -fabric under examination a few "picks," or weft threads. If the -material is a weft-pile weave, then it will be seen that the loose -bits of "cut pile" are not entangled or looped round or adhering -to the weft thread that has been drawn out, but that they remain -entangled among the warp threads. - -If, however, a few warp threads are withdrawn separately, it will -be found that every alternate warp thread, as a rule, will have the -loose bits of "cut weft pile" attached or looped round. - - -=Weft Ribs.=--The only difference between these and warp ribs is -that the weft bends and the warp lies straight. The term "weft -rib" is used to designate a weft surface weave in which, owing to -the thickness of the warp threads or to the grouping together of -a number of warp threads, the weft threads are made to bend round -them and, being thus thrown to the surface of the fabric, produce a -ribbed appearance with the ribs running lengthways, in which the weft -threads are on the face of the fabric. - - -=Weft Sateen.=--A Weft Sateen is woven on the five threads and picks -system, which results in four-fifths of the weft threads appearing -on the surface of the fabric, and therefore four-fifths of the warp -threads appear on the back of the fabric. The object of weaving -on this principle is similar to that aimed at when weaving a Warp -Sateen, that is to say, it is done to obtain a smooth cloth surface -by distributing the interlacing points and so destroying the common -"twilled" effect. A Weft Sateen will be closer in the weft threads -(or picks) than in the warp threads, and therefore stronger in that -direction. - - -=Weft-faced Cloth.=--A fabric which shows on its face a greater -number of "picks," or weft threads, than warp threads. - - -=Weight and Thickness of Woollen Cloths.=--The accepted standard of -weight and thickness of woollen cloth is-- - -_For Ladies' Wear_:-- - - 4 ounces per yard represents a "very thin" cloth. - 8 " " " "thin" cloth. - -_For Men's Wear_:-- - - 12 ounces per yard represents a "thin, or "tropical," cloth. - 16 " " " "thin medium" cloth. - 20 " " " "medium" cloth. - 30 " " " "thick" cloth. - 40 " " " "very thick" cloth. - -Naturally, also, the relation of weight to thickness varies with the -composition of the cloth and the style of make, some "woolly" makes -of 20 ounces being very thick. - - -=Weighting.=--The process of adding to the natural weight of a fabric -by making it take up certain chemical or other substances. - -Cotton fabrics are generally weighted by subjecting them to a process -which causes them to absorb either zinc chloride, magnesium sulphate, -magnesium chloride, glue, gelatine, starch, or alkali silicate. -Woollens and worsteds are generally weighted with zinc chloride. Silk -is generally weighted with muriate of tin, and few of the silks on -the market are free from weighting. Modern methods make it possible -to increase the weight of pure boiled silk to five or six times its -original weight. Hooper, in his book on "Silk," states: "It was early -found that silk would absorb about one-third its own weight of water -without feeling wet to the touch. The dyer found that it would absorb -other things besides water, muriate of tin amongst them. As a matter -of fact, it may be, and indeed it is, made by the dyer to take up, -with the dye, so much of that metal that 12 ounces of boiled silk can -be increased in weight to 80 ounces, and yet look like very bright -silk." - -The term "weighting" has the same value as "filling" or "loading." - - -=Welt.=--The double thick portion or wide hem at top of plain hose. - - -=Whip Thread.=--The crossing thread in a gauze fabric. - - -=Whipcord.=--This name is given to hard-twisted worsted twills in -either solid or mixed colours. The twill or diagonal in this class of -fabric is well marked and slightly raised, somewhat resembling the -hard-twisted fibre lash of a whip. - - -=White.=--As a textile term, this word is applied to fabrics which -are not in their loom state, _i.e._, in the grey, but which have been -bleached and rendered white. - - -=White Brocades.=--Under this name would be classed bleached fabrics -of different weaves or combinations of weave in which the design -appearing on the surface of the fabric is of a fancy, figured, -or floral effect, usually of elaborate design. Soft spun wefts -are generally used in the weaving of Brocades and other figured -cloths, as they fill and throw up better the figure produced than a -hard-twist yarn would do. White Brocades are all-cotton goods unless -otherwise stated. Lappet and swivel figured fabrics would not come -under the heading "Brocades"; such style of figuring is not brocaded. - - -=White Cambric.=--Cambric is a plain-weave fine linen fabric of light -weight and soft finish. Cotton Cambric, in which the yarn used is -of fine cotton, is mostly met with. It is woven without a selvedge -and generally leaves the loom in pieces of 120 yards, which are cut -to shorter lengths. In plain white, a Cambric is finer than a Lawn. -Cambric of French origin is generally finer in texture than the -Manchester Cambric. Cambric varies in width from 32 to 46 inches and -in length from 12 to 40 yards per piece. The finer qualities are -made from hard-twisted cotton. The warp yarn is often of a different -thickness to that used for the filling, and it is generally finished -with a smooth glazed surface. The term Cambric is also commonly -applied to Muslins. White Cambric is a bleached material. - - -=White Drills, or Drilling.=--White Drills are, when not otherwise -specified, all-cotton medium and heavy weight single cloths woven -as a three-shaft twill (two warp and one weft), which have been -bleached but not dyed or printed. The better qualities of warp-faced -sateen-weave Drills are known as Satin Drill, and these are -extensively exported to the Far East; their distinctive features lie -in the closeness of weave, smoothness of surface, and finish. - - -=White Goods.=--A generic term covering a great variety of bleached -fabrics, plain or fancy, covering various weaves or combination of -weaves. - - -=White Irishes.=--The term Irishes originally was applied to linen -fabrics which were mainly produced in and around Belfast. It is now -used to describe certain cotton fabrics of plain weave similar to -white cotton Calico. Generally in pieces 36 inches wide and 42 yards -long, finished with a heavy starch finish. - - -=White Italian.=--The name White Italian is not generally applied -to a white cotton fabric woven and finished as an Italian. Such a -fabric is a White Mercerised Sateen; however, occasionally an invoice -covering Coloured Italians will be found to include so-called White -Italians. In such cases the colour assortment list (which generally -accompanies, if it does not form part of, the invoice) will show the -number of white pieces included in the shipment. The ordinary Italian -is essentially a coloured or piece-dyed material, and, as white is -not, in the piece goods trade, considered to be a colour, a White -Italian cannot be considered as coming under the classification of -Dyed Plain Cottons. - - -=White Jean.=--A White Jean is an all-cotton fabric woven as a -three-end twill, similar in weave to a Grey Jean, but which has been -subjected to a process of bleaching to turn it into what is known as -a "market white" fabric. The process of bleaching proper is always -preceded by a series of operations that have for their object the -improving of the surface of the cloth by removing loose fibres, -motes, and ends of yarn, and by cleaning and singeing the surface so -as to free it from all "nap." The distinctive weave of this fabric is -given under "Grey Jeans," which is the class of Jean most often met -with. - - -=White Lawn.=--Lawn is a plain-weave light-weight cotton fabric of -soft finish made from yarns varying from 1/40's to 1/100's. Lawn -has a soft, smooth feel, which is due to the absence of sizing or -starching and to the process of brushing and calendering, _i.e._, -passing the fabric through heavily weighted steam-heated rollers. -Lawns vary in quality and weight similarly to other fabrics, their -weight varying between 1¼ and 2¼ ounces per yard; in width they vary -from 27 to 46 inches and in length from 12 to 42 yards per piece. -Lawn in plain white is coarser than a Cambric. The yarn used in the -weaving of Lawn is generally of fine Egyptian cotton. White Lawns are -also made of linen yarn, and when so made would be called Linen Lawn. -India Lawn is a calendered fabric, about 12 yards to the pound and 28 -to 36 inches wide in book-fold or 40 inches in long-fold. Victoria -Lawn has a very stiff finish. Bishop's Lawn is slightly heavier in -weight than "Linon" or "India Linon," bleached and finished to a -bluish tint, and derives its name from the style of finish. The same -fabric finished differently would be known under other names. White -Lawn is a bleached material. - - -=White Muslin.=--Muslin is a light-weight, open, plain-weave cotton -fabric made generally of low-count yarns, that is to say, of fairly -coarse yarn. Muslins, Lawns, and Cambrics are all materials which -are similar in construction but vary by their quality, Muslin being -the lowest grade of the three. A very common kind of Muslin is known -as Butter Muslin or Cheese Cloth. Muslins vary in width from 32 to -46 inches and in length from 12 to 40 yards per piece. Foundation -Muslin, Book Muslin, and Butcher's Muslin are varieties of Muslin -so dissimilar to the true Muslin that they should not be considered -as coming under the classification of true Muslin, which, whilst it -varies considerably, should always answer to the description of "a -fine, soft, thin, open, plain-woven cotton fabric." White Muslin is a -bleached material. - - -=White Sheetings.=--A bleached light or medium weight plain-woven -all-cotton fabric. Under the heading "Grey Sheeting" will be found -a description of the two distinct varieties of fabric known as -Sheeting. Where such Grey Sheetings have been rendered white by being -bleached and are no longer in their loom state, they are known as -White Sheetings. - - -=White Shirtings.=--Essentially a bleached all-cotton fabric woven -with a plain one-under and one-over weave, having the warp and weft -threads approximately equal in number of threads and counts. It -differs from Grey Shirtings only in finish, White Shirting having -been subjected to a bleaching process after leaving the loom, -whereas Grey Shirting remains in its loom state, _i.e._, in the same -condition as when it was taken off the loom. The same remarks as to -the similarity between a Grey Shirting and a Grey Sheeting applies -to White Shirtings and White Sheetings. Similarly, a White Shirting -may be termed a White Calico, which is a term used to designate -practically any cotton cloth coarser than Muslin. Varying in width -and weight, they are generally put up in pieces of from 36 to 40 -yards. The length marked on the outside of the piece may not always -correspond to the number of yards in the piece if the yard is taken -as one of 36 inches. - - -=White Spotted Shirtings.=--Like White Striped Shirtings, the -ornamentation in this class of fabric would be produced by -combination of weave and would not be the result of printing or be -due to the presence of coloured yarns. The essentials of this class -of fabric are similar to those of White Striped Shirtings, _i.e._, -the fabric is all cotton and the ornamentation due to weave and weave -only. - - -=White Striped Shirtings.=--The fabric which would properly come -under this classification would be essentially all-cotton fabrics -containing stripes, produced by a combination of weave and not the -result of printing or due to the presence of coloured yarns. A -plain-weave ground may be combined with a sateen-weave stripe. Such -a fabric would not be called a Fancy Shirting, which in the trade is -generally understood to be "either printed on the woven, bleached -fabric, or of fast colours, dyed upon the warp, or combination of -each." White Striped Shirtings are mostly made on a Jacquard loom, -and in the white condition the woven pattern constitutes the only -effect or ornamentation in the finished cloth. - - -=White T-Cloth.=--A bleached all-cotton fabric, plain woven from -low-quality yarns. An ordinary _T_-Cloth which has been bleached. -Generally sold in lengths of 24 yards and varying in width from 32 to -36 inches. The name is said to be derived from the mark @T@ of -the original exporters. - - -=White Venetians.=--What has been said of White Italians holds good -_mutatis mutandis_ of White Venetians. Such fabrics are in reality -White Warp-faced Sateens, and, white not being considered a colour, -they do not come under the classification of Dyed Plain Cottons. - - -=Widow's Lawn.=--A better quality of Lawn made from linen, well -woven, very clear and even in texture. - - -=Width.=--The practice has grown up in the trade to refer to the -width of a fabric either as "actual" or "nominal." The former term -explains itself and means that the width as given is actually that -of the piece referred to, and that it is not less than stated. -"Nominal," on the other hand, is understood to mean that the fabric -referred to may vary by as much as half an inch below the width -specified on the contract. - - -=Window Holland.=--A plain-woven all-cotton cloth, stiffened after -weaving with about one-fifth of its weight in starch or other sizing -material. It is used as window shades. - - -=Wolsey.=--A proprietary name applied to certain all-wool materials, -especially underwear. - - -=Wool.=--Wool is the soft, curly covering which forms the fleecy coat -of the sheep and other similar animals, such as the goat, alpaca, -llama, vicuña, and camel. - -The chief characteristic of wool is its felting or shrinking power. -This felting property, from which wool derives its chief value and -which is its special distinction from hair, depends in part upon the -kinks in the fibre but mainly upon the scales with which the fibre -is covered. The process of felting consists in the fibres becoming -entangled with each other, and the little projecting scales hooking -into each other and holding the fibres closely interlocked. - -The wool of commerce is divided into three great classes:-- - - 1. Short wool, or clothing wool (also called carding wool), - seldom exceeds a length of 2 to 4 inches. - - 2. Long wool, or combing wool, varying from 4 to 10 inches. - - 3. Carpet and knitting wools, which are long, strong, and very - coarse. - -Combing wools take their name from the process of "combing" which -they undergo when being prepared for spinning into yarn. Combing -wools are longer than carding wools; they are also harder or more -wiry and less inclined to be spiral or kinky. - -Carding wools--made to cross and interlace and interlock with one -another--are shorter than combing, and, in addition, they possess the -power of felting (that is to say, of matting together in a close, -compact mass) to a much greater degree. - -The first and finest clip of wool is called lamb's wool; it is taken -from the young sheep at the age of eight to twelve months and, never -having been clipped before, it is naturally pointed at the end. All -subsequent cut fleeces are known as wether wool and are less valuable -than the first clip. The ends of such wool are thick and blunted on -account of having been previously cut. - -Wool, unlike cotton, is not capable of being worked into a yarn -without first being thoroughly cleansed of its impurities. - - -=Wool-dyed.=--A term applied to fabrics dyed in the loose or top -form--as distinct from yarn-dyed or piece-dyed. - - -=Woollen.=--This term is used in contradistinction to worsted, and -implies difference of material and method of manufacture. Wastes, -shoddy, and blends of material other than wool are referred to as -"woollen," in opposition to "all wool." - - -=Woollen and Cotton Flannel.=--A fabric answering to the description -of true Flannel, usually woven with either a plain or twill weave, -soft finished, but which is made from carded union yarn, _i.e._, yarn -composed of wool and cotton in varying proportions according to the -quality of the material it is intended to produce. If a Woollen and -Cotton Flannel were described as a Union Flannel it would be composed -of distinct yarns, some of which were all cotton and some all wool. -In its broad acceptance the term is applicable to any fabric woven -partly of wool and partly of cotton to resemble true All-wool Flannel. - - -=Woollen and Cotton Mixtures.=--This term is used to designate -fabrics which are composed of the fibres of wool and cotton which -have been blended or scribbled together rather than to fabrics -composed of distinct threads which are all-cotton and all-wool yarns -woven together. A cotton warp and wool weft fabric is a union, not -a mixture. Mixtures may be recognised, when dyed, by a careful -examination of the fibres constituting the yarn. When such fibres -are not of the same colour, it will be found to have been due to -the difference of affinity for the dye between cotton and wool. The -burning test is not close enough. Carbonising is the surest test that -can be applied to determine the presence and percentage of cotton in -any Woollen and Cotton Mixture fabric. - - -=Woollen Fabric.=--The typical woollen is a full-handling fabric in -which structure and colouring cannot always be defined on account of -the threads and picks, and even the fibres, having become thoroughly -intermingled in passing through the operations of finishing. Strictly -speaking, a woollen fabric should be made of fine wool (possibly -noils included); but in the English Law Courts a definition of -"woollen" fabrics as being composed of mungo, shoddy, cotton, etc., -has been accepted. - - -=Woollen Lastings, Craped.=--A fabric similar in the main to a Plain -Lasting, but which, owing either to special process of weaving, -chemical process during finishing, or to the action of suitably -engraved rollers through which the material is made to pass, has a -face finish resembling Crape Cloth, Plain, under which heading will -be found the distinctive characteristics of Crape Cloth. - - -=Woollen Lastings, Figured.=--Like Cotton Lastings, this fabric is -essentially a plain twill or kindred weave fabric, firmly woven -from hard-twisted yarns. It is woven from strong wool and can be -described as a fine, durable fabric of a somewhat hard handle, but -smooth in appearance and ornamented by the introduction of a figure, -pattern, or design produced either by means of an extra thread or by -combination of warp and weft threads. - - -=Woollen Lastings, Plain.=--A plain twill or kindred weave fabric -firmly woven from hard-twisted yarns. It is woven from strong wool -and can be described as a fine, durable fabric of a somewhat hard -handle, smooth in appearance, and free from any ornamentation -produced either by weaving or printing. Used extensively in the -manufacture of boot and shoe uppers. - - -=Woollen Yarn= in appearance possesses a fringe-like covering which -gives it a fuzzy appearance. This is arrived at by using shorter wool -than in the manufacture of worsted yarn and by giving it a twist. -This fuzzy appearance distinguishes it from worsted yarn, which -is a straight yarn in which the component fibres lie smoothly and -parallel to each other. Woollen yarn is particularly suitable for the -manufacture of cloths in which the colourings require to be blended, -the fibres napped, as in Tweed, Cheviot, Doeskin, Broadcloth, Beaver, -Frieze, Chinchilla, Blanket, and Flannel. Woollen yarn may be said -to be a thread in which all the component fibres are entangled into -each other and are in all different directions: this results in a -yarn which is rough in appearance, non-lustrous, and more irregular -than worsted yarn. It is only in this type of yarn that low-grade -materials, such as mungo, shoddy, or extract, can be utilised. The -fibres which constitute a woollen yarn are not as readily separated -from the body of the yarn or cloth as in the case of worsted. - -In the case of woollen yarn there are numerous systems for denoting -the count, varying with the locality in which it is spun and the -character of the product. In the United States there are two systems -employed, but the one in most general use is known as the "American -run counts." This is based on the number of "runs," each containing -1,600 yards, to the pound. Thus, a yarn running 8,000 yards to the -pound is called a "5-run" yarn, a yarn with 5,200 yards to the pound -is equal to a "3¼-run." In the vicinity of Philadelphia woollen -yarn is based on the "cut," each cut consisting of 300 yards, and -the count is the number of cuts in a pound. Thus, No. 30 cut yarn -consists of 9,000 yards to the pound. A similar system prevails in -England, where 200 yards go to the "cut," and the number of "cuts" -per pound equals the count. In certain parts of England (Yorkshire) -256 yards go to the hank. The count is also arrived at on the basis -that the number of yards per dram equals the count. - - -=Worsted Diagonal.=--The name explains itself and is applied to a -worsted cloth having as its chief characteristic a prominent weave -effect running diagonally--from left to right--across the face of the -cloth. Generally in solid colours and finished so as to bring the -weave into prominence. - - -=Worsted Lastings.=--A smooth, warp-faced, sateen-weave fabric woven -from worsted warp and weft, having a plain-weave effect on the back -of the fabric. Generally piece-dyed black. Worsted Lastings average -30 to 31 inches in width and 29 to 30 yards in length per piece. Met -with in three grades of quality. Average Bradford price for the best -grade was, for the 10 years ended 1914, about 31_s._ 5_d._ per piece. - - -=Worsted Yarn= is a straight yarn, _i.e._, a yarn produced from -straight fibres; it is invaluable in the production of textile -fabrics in which lustre and uniformity of surface are the chief -characteristics. They enter into the manufacture of Zephyr, -Saxony, Serge, Bunting, Rep, etc. Yarn is measured by a system of -"counts"--the number of yards of yarn to the pound. It is put up -in hanks of 560 yards each, and the number of such hanks that are -necessary to weigh 1 pound determines the count, so that if No. -30 yarn is mentioned, it is a yarn 30 hanks of which, or 16,800 -yards, weigh 1 pound. The main characteristic of worsted yarn is -the arrangement of the fibres, which are so arranged that they are -parallel to each other in a longitudinal direction. - -The yarn thus produced is a smooth, lustrous, and level yarn, these -qualities being absent in woollen yarn. The fibres which constitute a -worsted yarn are more readily separated from the body of the yarn or -cloth than in the case of a woollen yarn. - - -=W-Pile.=--This term is used to designate a fast pile and originates -in the form taken by a piece of fast pile when removed from the -fabric. In a fast-pile fabric the pile cannot be driven out through -the back of the fabric by pressure applied to the pile, owing to the -fact that the pile is virtually bound into the material and held in -place by two threads from the top and one from behind. _See_ Pile -Weave. - - -=Wright's Underwear, Imitation.=--This class of underwear is -essentially a knit cotton underwear made from a combination of -bleached cotton yarn and dyed yarn. The knit fabric is raised on -the inside. The dyed yarn used in the manufacture of this class of -underwear is often of a blue or brown colour. - - -=Yarn, Cotton, Grey or Bleached.=--In its unqualified form the term -Cotton Yarn is used to describe "single" yarns, and Cotton Yarn, Grey -or Bleached, is understood to be cotton thread and carded yarn, warps -or warp yarns, in singles, whether in bundles, skeins, or cops, not -advanced beyond the condition of singles by grouping or twisting two -or more single yarns together and not advanced beyond the condition -of bleached by dyeing, colouring, printing, gassing, or mercerising. - -Cotton yarn is subdivided into three groups,--coarse, medium, and -fine--according to count:-- - - No. 20's count and under = coarse. - Nos. 21's to 40's = medium. - No. 41's and over = fine. - -Cotton yarn is sometimes found as a Mercerised Grey Yarn. The fact -that cotton yarn is in the unbleached state does not necessarily mean -that it has not been advanced beyond that stage; it may be in the -grey and at the same time be mercerised. _See_ "Cabled Yarns" and -"Folded Yarn." - - -=Yarn-dyed.=--Yarn-dyed goods are made of yarns that are dyed before -being woven or yarns spun from wool that has previously been dyed. -Yarn-dyed may be distinguished from piece-dyed fabrics by unravelling -the threads of each kind. Yarn-dyed fabrics show that the dye-stuff -has penetrated through the yarn, while in the case of piece-dyed -fabrics the dye-stuff has not the same chance of penetrating the yarn -as completely. - - -=Zephyrs.=--Lightly constructed, coloured, plain-woven cloths, well -finished, in the pure state, principally woven from fine cotton -yarns. There are also silk and cotton woven Zephyrs and woollen -Zephyrs. _See_ Madras. - - -=Zibeline.=--The French name for Sable, used to designate a dress or -cloaking material having a hairy surface. - - - - -INDEX. - - - - -INDEX. - - - A. - - _Page._ - - Actual, 1 - - Agaric, 1 - - Albatross, 1 - - Alhambra Quilt, 1 - - All Wool; _see_ Woollen, 108 - - All-over Leno; _see_ Dyed Lenos, 29 - - Alpaca, 1 - - Alpaca Wool, 1 - - Alpacianos, 2 - - American Run Counts; _see_ Woollen Yarn, 109 - - American Sheetings, 2 - - Angola, 2 - - Angola Yarn or Wool, 2 - - Angora, 2 - - Angora Goat, 2 - - Animalised Cotton, 2 - - Armure, 3 - - Artificial Silk, 3 - - Astrakhan, 3 - - - B. - - Back Cloth, 3 - - Backed Cloth, 4 - - Baffetas, 4 - - Baize, 4 - - Balbriggan, 4 - - Bale of Cotton, 4 - - Baline, 4 - - Balzarine Brocades, Dyed, 4 - - Balzarines, 5 - - Bandanna, 5 - - Barré, 5 - - Basket Cloth, 5 - - Batiste, 5 - - Bayadère, 6 - - Bayetas, 6 - - Beavers, 6 - - Beaverteen, 6 - - Bedford Cords, 6 - - Beetle Finish; _see_ Silesia, 83 - - Beige, 6 - - Bengal Stripes, 6 - - Bengaline, 6 - - Binding Cloth, 7 - - Bishop's Lawn; _see_ White Lawn, 104 - - Bleached, 7 - - Bleached Domestics, 7 - - Bolting Cloth; _see_ Étamine, 33 - - Bolton Sheeting; _see_ Grey Sheeting, 39 - - Bombazine, 7 - - Book Muslin; _see_ White Muslin, 105 - - Book-fold Muslin, 7 - - Botany, 7 - - Bouclé, 7 - - Bourette, 7 - - Broadcloth, 8 - - Brocade, 8 - - Brocades, White; _see_ White Brocades, 103 - - Brocatelle, 8 - - Broché, 8 - - Broken Twill; _see_ Twill Weave, 93 - - Brown Sheeting, 8 - - Brown Shirting, 8 - - Bugis, 8 - - "Bump" Yarns, 9 - - Bundle; _see_ Cotton Yarn Measures, 17 - - Bunting, 9 - - Burlaps, 9 - - Butcher's Linen, 9 - - Butcher's Muslin; _see_ White Muslin, 105 - - - C. - - Cabled Yarns, 9 - - Cabot, 9 - - Cabot; _see_ American Sheetings, 2 - - Calico, 9 - - Cambric; _see_ White Cambric, 103 - - Cambrics, Dyed; _see_ Dyed Cambrics, 26 - - Camel's Hair, 10 - - Camlets (Woollen), 10 - - Camlets, Dutch (Woollen), 10 - - Camlets, English (Woollen), 11 - - Caniche, 11 - - Canton Flannel, 11 - - Canvas, 11 - - Carbonising, 12 - - Carded Union Yarns; _see_ Union Yarns, 96 - - Carding Wools; _see_ Wool, 107 - - Casement Cloth, 12 - - Cashmere, 12 - - Cashmere Double, 12 - - Cashmere Wool, 12 - - Castor, 13 - - Cellular Cloth, 13 - - Ceylon or Ceylon Flannel, 13 - - Challis, 13 - - Chambray, 13 - - Charmeuse, 13 - - Checks, 13 - - Cheese Cloth, 13 - - Cheviot, 14 - - Chiffon, 14 - - China Grass; _see_ Ramie, 71 - - Chinchilla, 14 - - Chiné, 14 - - Chinese Customs Definition of Nankeen; _see_ Nankeen, 55 - - Chintz, 14 - - Classification of Samples; _see_ Samples, 74 - - Clip Spots, 14 - - Coated Cotton Cloths, 14 - - Collarette, 15 - - Coloured, 15 - - Coloured Crimp Cloth, 15 - - Coloured Lists, 15 - - Coloured Sateens; _see_ Printed Sateens, 68 - - Coloured Woollen and Worsted Yarns, 15 - - Combination Twill; _see_ Twill Weave, 93 - - Combing Wool; _see_ Wool, 107 - - Continuous or Pad-dyeing Process; _see_ Dyeing, 25 - - Corduroy, 15 - - Corkscrew Twill; _see_ Twill Weave, 93 - - Côtelé, 16 - - Cotton, 16 - - Cotton, Animalised; _see_ Animalised Cotton, 2 - - Cotton Duck, 16 - - Cotton Flannel, 16 - - Cotton Plush, 17 - - Cotton Velvet, Plain; _see_ Plain Velvet (Cotton), 62 - - Cotton Yarn, Coarse, Medium, and Fine; _see_ Yarn, Cotton, Grey or - Bleached, 111 - - Cotton Yarn, Grey or Bleached; _see_ Yarn, Cotton, Grey or Bleached, - 111 - - Cotton Yarn Measures, 17 - - Counts, 17 - - Counts of Spun Silk; _see_ Silk Yarns, 85 - - Coutil, 18 - - Covert, 18 - - Crabbing, 18 - - Crape Cloth, Plain, 18 - - Crape Weave; _see_ Crape Cloth, Plain, 18 - - Crash, 19 - - Cravenette, 19 - - Crêpe de Chine, 19 - - Crêpe Meteor, 19 - - Crepoline, 19 - - Crépon, 19 - - Cretonne, 19 - - Cretonne, Shadow; _see_ Shadow Cretonne, 82 - - Crimp Cloth, Plain, or Crimps, 20 - - Crinkle, or Seersucker, 20 - - Cross-dyed, 20 - - Crossover, 20 - - Cut; _see_ Woollen Yarn, 109 - - Cut Goods, 20 - - Cuttling, 21 - - - D. - - Damask, 21 - - Damassé, 21 - - Delaine, 21 - - Denim, 21 - - Derby Rib, 22 - - Descriptions of Standard Cloth; _see_ Market Descriptions of Standard - Cloth, 50 - - Diagonal, 22 - - Diaper, 22 - - Diced; _see_ Diaper, 22 - - Dimity, 22 - - Discharge Printing, 22 - - Dobbie, or Dobby, 22 - - Domestics, 23 - - Domet, 23 - - Dorneck; _see_ Diaper, 22 - - Double Cloth Weave, 23 - - Double Sole, Heel, and Toe, 23 - - Double Warps, 23 - - Drap d'Été, 23 - - Dresden, 23 - - Drill, Pepperell; _see_ Pepperell Drill, 60 - - Drills, 23 - - Drills, Grey; _see_ Grey Drills, 39 - - Drillette, 24 - - Drilling; _see_ White Drills, or Drilling, 104 - - Duchesse, 24 - - Duck, 24 - - Dungaree, 24 - - Duplex Prints, 24 - - Dyeing, 25 - - Dyed and Printed, 25 - - Dyed Alpacianos, 25 - - Dyed Balzarines, 26 - - Dyed Cambrics, 26 - - Dyed Corduroys (Cotton), 26 - - Dyed Cotton Lastings, 26 - - Dyed Cotton Spanish Stripes, 26 - - Dyed Crimp Cloth, 27 - - Dyed Drills, 27 - - Dyed Figured Cottons, 27 - - Dyed Figured Cotton Italians, 27 - - Dyed Figured Cotton Lastings, 27 - - Dyed Figured Cotton Reps, 28 - - Dyed Figured Ribs, 28 - - Dyed Fustians, 28 - - Dyed Imitation Turkey Reds, 28 - - Dyed in the Grey; _see_ Dyed in the Piece, 29 - - Dyed in the Grey; _see_ Union Cloth, 95 - - Dyed in the Piece, or Piece-dyed, 29 - - Dyed Lawns, 29 - - Dyed Lenos, 29 - - Dyed Leno Brocade, 29 - - Dyed Muslins, 30 - - Dyed Plain Cottons, 30 - - Dyed Plain Cottons; _see_ White Italian, 104 - - Dyed Plain Cotton Italians, 30 - - Dyed Real Turkey Reds, 30 - - Dyed Reps, 31 - - Dyed Ribs, 31 - - Dyed Sheetings, 31 - - Dyed Shirtings, 31 - - Dyed _T_-Cloths, 32 - - Dyed Velvet Cords (Cotton), 32 - - Dyed Velveteen Cords (Cotton), 32 - - - E. - - Elongated Twill; _see_ Twill Weave, 93 - - Embossed Velvet (Cotton), 32 - - Embossed Velveteen (Cotton), 32 - - Embroideries, 33 - - End, 33 - - English Foot, 33 - - English System of Silk Cords; _see_ Silk Yarns, 85 - - Eolienne, 33 - - Éponge, 33 - - Equestrienne Tights, 33 - - Étamine, 33 - - Extract, 33 - - Extracted, 33 - - - F. - - Face-finished Cashmere; _see_ Velour, 96 - - Façonné, 33 - - Faille, 33 - - Fancies, 34 - - Fancy Shirtings; _see_ White Striped Shirtings, 106 - - Fancy Silk Seal; _see_ Silk Seal, 84 - - Fancy Twill; _see_ Twill Weave, 93 - - Fast Pile; _see_ Pile Weave, 61 - - Fents, 34 - - Figured, 34 - - Figured Cretonne; _see_ Cretonne, 19 - - Figured Muslin, 34 - - Figured Twill; _see_ Twill Weave, 93 - - Figure Weaving, 34 - - Filled Cotton Cloth, 35 - - Filling, 35 - - Filling (finishing term), 35 - - Flannel (Woollen), 35 - - Flannel, Cotton; _see_ Cotton Flannel, 16 - - Flannelette, 35 - - Flat Underwear, 36 - - Fleece-lined, 36 - - Flocks; _see_ Waste and Flocks, 100 - - Floconné, 36 - - Florentine Drills, 36 - - Folded Yarn, 36 - - Foulard, 37 - - Foundation Muslin; _see_ White Muslin, 105 - - French Cambric; _see_ White Cambric, 103 - - French Foot, 37 - - French System of Cotton Counts; _see_ Cotton Yarn Measures, 17 - - French System of Silk Counts; _see_ Silk Yarns, 85 - - Full Regular, 37 - - Full-fashioned, 37 - - Fustian, 37 - - - G. - - Galatea, 38 - - Gauge, 38 - - Gauze Weave, 38 - - Genoa Plush; _see_ Cotton Plush, 17 - - Gingham, 38 - - Gingham, Madras; _see_ Madras Gingham, 49 - - Gingham, Silk; _see_ Silk Gingham, 84 - - Glacé, 38 - - Granité, 39 - - Grenadine, 39 - - Grey, in the Grey, or Grey Cloth, 39 - - Grey Drills, 39 - - Grey Jeans, 39 - - Grey Sheeting, 39 - - Grey Shirting, 40 - - Grey _T_-Cloths, 40 - - Grosgrain, 40 - - - H. - - Habit Cloth (Woollen), 40 - - Habutai, 41 - - Hair-cord Muslin, 41 - - Hand Looms and Power Looms, 41 - - Handle, 41 - - Hank; _see_ Cotton Yarn Measures, 17 - - Hank; _see_ Counts, 17 - - Hard Waste; _see_ Waste and Flocks, 100 - - Harvard Shirting, 41 - - Henrietta, 42 - - Herring-bone, 42 - - Hessian, 42 - - Hog, or Hoggett Wool, 42 - - Honeycomb, 42 - - Huckaback, 42 - - - I. - - Imitation Oxford; _see_ Oxford Shirting, 58 - - Imitation Rabbit Skin, 42 - - Imitation Wright's Underwear; _see_ Wright's Underwear, Imitation, 111 - - India Lawn; _see_ White Lawn, 104 - - India Linon; _see_ White Lawn, 104 - - India Mull; _see_ Mull, 54 - - Indigo Print; _see_ Printed, 65 - - Ingrain, 43 - - Irishes, 43 - - Irish Cambric, 43 - - Italian Cloth, 43 - - Italian Cloth, Figured, Cotton Warp and Wool Weft, 43 - - Italian Cloth, Plain, Cotton Warp and Wool Weft, 44 - - - J. - - Jaconet, 44 - - Jaconettes; _see_ Jaconet, 44 - - Jacquards, 44 - - Jaeger, 44 - - Jean, 45 - - Jean; _see_ Galatea, 38 - - Jeanette, 45 - - Jouy, 45 - - - K. - - Kerseymere, 45 - - Khaiki, 45 - - Khaki, 45 - - - L. - - Ladies' Cloth, 45 - - Lamb's Wool; _see_ Wool, 107 - - Lappet Weave, 45 - - Lastings, 46 - - Lawn; _see_ White Lawn, 104 - - Lawns, Dyed; _see_ Dyed Lawns, 29 - - Leas, 46 - - Leather Cloth, 46 - - Leno, 46 - - Leno Brocades, Dyed; _see_ Dyed Leno Brocade, 29 - - Liberty, 47 - - Linen Cambric; _see_ White Cambric, 103 - - Linen, Tests for; _see_ Tests for Linen, 89 - - Linen Thread; _see_ Thread, 90 - - Linen Yarn, 47 - - Lingerie, 47 - - Lining, 47 - - Linon; _see_ White Lawn, 104 - - Lisle Thread, 47 - - List; _see_ Selvedge, 81 - - Loading Worsted and Woollens, 47 - - Longcloth, 47 - - Long Ells (Woollen), 48 - - Long Stick, 48 - - Loom State; _see_ Grey, 39 - - Louisine, 48 - - Lustre Dress Fabrics, 48 - - Lustre Orleans; _see_ Orleans, 57 - - - M. - - Maco, 49 - - Madapolams, 49 - - Madras, 49 - - Madras Gingham, 49 - - Madras Handkerchiefs, 49 - - Make; _see_ Reed and Pick, 71 - - Maline, 49 - - Market Descriptions of Standard Cloth, 50 - - Marl, 50 - - Marquisette, 50 - - Matelassé, 50 - - Matt Weave, 50 - - Medium Cloth (Woollen), 50 - - Mélange, 50 - - Mélanges (Yarns); _see_ Coloured Woollen and Worsted Yarns, 15 - - Melton, 51 - - Mercerised Cotton, 51 - - Mercerising, 51 - - Merino, 51 - - Mesh Underwear, 52 - - Messaline, 52 - - Mexican; _see_ _T_-Cloth, 87 - - Milled Finish; _see_ Schreiner Finish, 80 - - Millerayes; _see_ Grosgrain, 40 - - Mixed Cloths; _see_ Union Cloth, 95 - - Mixed Dyeing; _see_ Cross-dyed, 20 - - Mixture Yarn, 52 - - Mixtures (Yarns); _see_ Coloured Woollen and Worsted Yarns, 15 - - Mock Leno, 52 - - Mock Seam, 52 - - Mohair, 52 - - Mohair Beaver Plush, 52 - - Mohair Brilliantine, 52 - - Mohair Coney Seal, 53 - - Mohair Sicilian, 53 - - Moiré, 53 - - Moleskin, 53 - - Mottles, 53 - - Mousseline de Soie, 53 - - Mule-twist Yarn, 53 - - Mull, 54 - - Mungo and Shoddy, 54 - - Muslin; _see_ White Muslin, 105 - - - N. - - Nainsook, 54 - - Nankeen, 55 - - Nankeen; _see_ Galatea, 38 - - Nankeen, Chinese Customs Definition of, 56 - - Native Cotton Cloth; _see_ Nankeen, 55 - - Native Cotton Cloth; _see_ Unclassed Native Cotton Cloth (China), 94 - - Net Silk Yarn; _see_ Silk Yarns, 85 - - Noils, 57 - - Nominal; _see_ Actual, 1 - - - O. - - Ombré, 57 - - Opera Hose, 57 - - Organzine, 57 - - Orleans, 57 - - Ottoman, 57 - - Outsize, 57 - - Oxford, 58 - - Oxford Shirting, 58 - - - P. - - Padded Back Linings, 58 - - Pad-dyeing, 58 - - Panne, 59 - - Panung, 59 - - Panama Canvas, 59 - - Papoon, 59 - - Paramatta, 59 - - Pastel, 59 - - Pastille, 59 - - Peau de Cygne, 59 - - Peau de Soie, 59 - - Pekiné, or Pekin Stripes, 60 - - Pepperell Drill, 60 - - Pepperell Drill; _see_ Grey Drills, 39 - - Percale, 60 - - Percaline, 60 - - Persian Cord, 60 - - Pick, 60 - - Piece Goods, 60 - - Pile Fabrics, 60 - - Pile Weave, 61 - - Piqué, 61 - - "P.K.", 61 - - Plain, 62 - - Plain Velvet (Cotton), 62 - - Plain Velveteen (Cotton), 62 - - Plain (or Homespun) Weave, 62 - - Plated, 62 - - Plissé, 62 - - Plumetis, 63 - - Plumety; _see_ Plumetis, 63 - - Plush, 63 - - Plush of Silk mixed with other Fibres, 63 - - Plush Velveteen, 63 - - Pointillé, 63 - - Pompadour, 63 - - Poncho Cloth, 64 - - Pongee, 64 - - Pony Skin, 64 - - Poplin, 64 - - Print Cloth; _see_ Printers, 70 - - Printed, 65 - - Printed Balzarines, 65 - - Printed Calico, 65 - - Printed Cambrics, 65 - - Printed Chintzes, 66 - - Printed Cotton Drill, 66 - - Printed Cotton Italians, 66 - - Printed Cotton Lastings, 66 - - Printed Crapes, 67 - - Printed Crimp Cloth, 67 - - Printed Furnitures, 67 - - Printed Lawns, 67 - - Printed Leno, 67 - - Printed Muslin, 68 - - Printed Oxford; _see_ Oxford Shirting, 58 - - Printed Reps, 68 - - Printed Sateens, 68 - - Printed Satinets, 68 - - Printed Sheetings, 68 - - Printed Shirtings, 69 - - Printed _T_-Cloth, 69 - - Printed Turkey Reds, 69 - - Printed Twills, 69 - - Printed Velvet (Cotton), 69 - - Printed Velveteen (Cotton), 69 - - Printed Warp; _see_ Warp Print, 99 - - Printers, 70 - - Pure Silk Plush, 70 - - Pure Silk Velvet, 70 - - - R. - - Raised Back Cloths, 70 - - Raised Cotton Cloth, 70 - - Ramie, Rhea, China Grass, 71 - - Ratine, 71 - - Rattine; _see_ Ratine, 71 - - Rattinet; _see_ Ratine, 71 - - Rayé, 71 - - Reed and Pick, 71 - - Regatta Twill; _see_ Galatea, 38 - - Regular Twill; _see_ Twill Weave, 93 - - Rembrandt Rib, 72 - - Remnant; _see_ Fents, 34 - - Rep, 72 - - Resist or Reserve Printing, 72 - - Reversible Cretonnes, 72 - - Rhea; _see_ Ramie, 71 - - Rib, 73 - - Rib Crape Effect, 73 - - Richelieu Rib, 73 - - Right and Wrong Side of Fabrics, 73 - - Ring-spun Yarn, 73 - - Robes, 74 - - Russian Cloth (Woollen), 74 - - Russian Prints, 74 - - - S. - - Samples and their Classification, 74 - - Sateens, 79 - - Satin, 79 - - Satin Drill, 80 - - Satin Weave, 80 - - Satinet, or Satinette, 80 - - Satin faced Velvet; _see_ Panne, 59 - - Schreiner Finish, 80 - - Scribbled, 81 - - Seamless, 81 - - Seamless Bags, 81 - - Seersucker; _see_ Crinkle, or Seersucker, 20 - - Selvedge, 81 - - Serge (Cotton), 82 - - Sett; _see_ Reed and Pick, 71 - - Sewing Thread; _see_ Thread, 90 - - Shadow Cretonne, 82 - - Shantung, 82 - - Sheeting, 82 - - Sheetings, American; _see_ American Sheetings, 2 - - Sheetings, Dyed; _see_ Dyed Sheetings, 31 - - Sheetings, Grey; _see_ Grey Sheeting, 39 - - Sheetings, White; _see_ White Sheetings, 105 - - Shirtings, 83 - - Shirtings, Dyed; _see_ Dyed Shirtings, 31 - - Shirtings, Grey; _see_ Grey Shirting, 40 - - Shirtings, White; _see_ White Shirtings, 105 - - Short Stick, 83 - - Shot, 83 - - Shot Silks; _see_ Glacé, 38 - - Sicilienne, 83 - - Sifting Cloth; _see_ Étamine, 33 - - Silence Cloth, 83 - - Silesia, 83 - - Silk Beaver, 83 - - Silk Gingham, 84 - - Silk Mull, 84 - - Silk Plush; _see_ Pure Silk Plush, 70 - - Silk Pongee, 84 - - Silk Seal (Cotton Back), 84 - - Silk Velvet; _see_ Pure Silk Velvet, 70 - - Silk Yarns, 85 - - Silver Seal; _see_ Mohair Coney Seal, 53 - - Singles; _see_ Yarn, Cotton, Grey or Bleached, 111 - - Sliver, 85 - - Soft Waste; _see_ Waste and Flocks, 100 - - Spanish Stripes, Cotton, 86 - - Spanish Stripes, Woollen, 86 - - Spanish Stripes, Wool and Cotton, 86 - - Split Foot, 86 - - Sponge Cloth, 86 - - Spool Cotton; _see_ Thread, 90 - - Spun Silk, 86 - - Spun-silk Yarns; _see_ Silk Yarns, 85 - - Standard Cloth; _see_ Market Descriptions of Standard Cloth, 50 - - Staples, 87 - - Stock-dyed; _see_ Ticks, or Ticking, 91 - - Striped; _see_ Rayé, 71 - - Surah, 87 - - Swansdown, 87 - - Swiss Embroidery, 87 - - Swiss Mull; _see_ Mull, 54 - - Swivel Figures, 87 - - - T. - - Tabby; _see_ Watering, 100 - - Tabby Plush; _see_ Cotton Plush, 17 - - Table Felting; _see_ Silence Cloth, 83 - - Tapestry, 87 - - _T_-Cloth, 87 - - _T_-Cloths, Dyed; _see_ Dyed _T_-Cloths, 32 - - _T_-Cloths, Grey; _see_ Grey _T_-Cloths, 40 - - Teasels, or Teazels, 88 - - Terry Cloth, 88 - - Tests by Burning, 88 - - Test for Artificial Silk, 88 - - Tests for Linen, 89 - - Test for Mercerised Cotton, 89 - - Tests for Silk, 90 - - Test for Wool, 90 - - Textile Fibres, 90 - - Thickness of Woollen Cloths; _see_ Weight and Thickness of Woollen - Cloths, 102 - - Thickset, 90 - - Thread, 90 - - Three-quarter Hose, 91 - - Ticks, or Ticking, 91 - - Tire Cloth, 91 - - Tram, 92 - - Trunk Length, 92 - - Tubular Cloth, 92 - - Tucks; _see_ Plissé, 62 - - Tulle, 92 - - Turkey Reds, Dyed Real; _see_ Dyed Real Turkey Reds, 30 - - Turkish Towelling, 92 - - Tussore, or Tussah, 92 - - Tweed, 92 - - Twill Weave, 93 - - Twin Needle, 94 - - Twists; _see_ Coloured Woollen and Worsted Yarns, 15 - - - U. - - Unclassed Native Cotton Cloth (China), 94 - - Union Broadcloth, 95 - - Union Cloth, 95 - - Union Flannel; _see_ Woollen and Cotton Flannel, 108 - - Union Yarns, 96 - - U-Pile; _see_ Pile Weave, 61 - - - V. - - Velour, 96 - - Velveret; _see_ Velveteen, 97 - - Velvet, 96 - - Velvet (Cotton), Printed; _see_ Printed Velvet (Cotton), 69 - - Velvet Finish, 96 - - Velvet of Silk mixed with other Fibres, 97 - - Velveteen, 97 - - Venetian Coverts; _see_ Covert, 18 - - Venetians, 97 - - Venetians, White; _see_ White Venetians, 106 - - Vesting, 97 - - Victoria Lawn; _see_ White Lawn, 104 - - Vigogne, 98 - - Vigoreux, 98 - - Viyella, 98 - - Voile, 98 - - - W. - - Wadding Pick, 98 - - Wale, 98 - - Warp, 99 - - Warp Pile, 99 - - Warp Print, 99 - - Warp Ribs, 99 - - Warp Sateen, 99 - - Warp Welt, 99 - - Warp-faced Cloth, 109 - - Waste and Condenser Wefts, 100 - - Waste and Flocks, 100 - - Waste and Spun Silk Yarns; _see_ Silk Yarns, 85 - - Waste Cloths, 100 - - Waste Sheeting; _see_ Grey Sheeting, 39 - - Watered; _see_ Watering, 100 - - Watering, 100 - - Weaving, 101 - - Web, 101 - - Weft, 101 - - Weft Pile, 101 - - Weft Ribs, 101 - - Weft Sateen, 102 - - Weft-faced Cloth, 102 - - Weight and Thickness of Woollen Cloths, 102 - - Weighting, 102 - - Welt, 103 - - Wether Wool; _see_ Wool, 107 - - Whip Thread, 103 - - Whipcord, 103 - - White, 103 - - White Brocades, 103 - - White Cambric, 103 - - White Drills, or Drilling, 104 - - White Goods, 104 - - White Irishes, 104 - - White Italian, 104 - - White Jean, 104 - - White Lawn, 104 - - White Mercerised Sateen; _see_ White Italian, 104 - - White Muslin, 105 - - White Sheetings, 105 - - White Shirtings, 105 - - White Spotted Shirtings, 106 - - White Striped Shirtings, 106 - - White _T_-Cloth, 106 - - White Venetians, 106 - - Widow's Lawn, 106 - - Width, 106 - - Window Holland, 107 - - Wolsey, 107 - - Wool, 107 - - Wool, Alpaca; _see_ Alpaca Wool, 1 - - Wool-dyed, 108 - - Woollen, 108 - - Woollen and Cotton Flannel, 108 - - Woollen and Cotton Mixtures, 108 - - Woollen Fabric, 108 - - Woollen Flannel; _see_ Flannel (Woollen), 35 - - Woollen Lastings, Craped, 108 - - Woollen Lastings, Figured, 109 - - Woollen Lastings, Plain, 109 - - Woollen Yarn, 109 - - Worsted Diagonal, 110 - - Worsted Lastings, 110 - - Worsted Yarn, 110 - - W-Pile, 110 - - Wright's Underwear, Imitation, 111 - - - Y. - - Yarn, Cotton, Grey or Bleached, 111 - - Yarn-dyed, 111 - - - Z. - - Zephyrs, 111 - - Zibeline, 111 - - - - - TRANSCRIBER'S NOTE - - Italic text is denoted by _underscores_. - - Bold text is denoted by =equal signs=. - - Large-size letters used to describe shapes or trade marks are denoted - by @at-signs@. - - The original book had a set of blank ledger pages to allow the reader - to catalog his collection of fabric samples, preceded by a repeated - list of the 17 main fabric groups found on pages 75-78. These pages - numbered 112-170 have been omitted from the etext. The Index begins - at the following page 171. - - Obvious typographical errors and punctuation errors have been - corrected after careful comparison with other occurrences within - the text and consultation of external sources. - - Except for those changes noted below, all misspellings in the text, - and inconsistent or archaic usage, have been retained. For example, - all-silk, all silk; dyestuff, dye-stuff; vicuna, vicuña. - - Pg 178, 'Scheriner Finish' replaced by 'Schreiner Finish'. - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Piece Goods Manual, by A. E. 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