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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d7b82bc --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,4 @@ +*.txt text eol=lf +*.htm text eol=lf +*.html text eol=lf +*.md text eol=lf diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6312041 --- /dev/null +++ b/LICENSE.txt @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements, +metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be +in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES. + +Procedures for determining public domain status are described in +the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org. + +No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in +jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize +this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright +status under the laws that apply to them. diff --git a/README.md b/README.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..bf787cd --- /dev/null +++ b/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,2 @@ +Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for +eBook #52324 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/52324) diff --git a/old/52324-0.txt b/old/52324-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index c333a50..0000000 --- a/old/52324-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3738 +0,0 @@ -Project Gutenberg's Hints to Young Yacht Skippers, by Thomas Fleming Day - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - -Title: Hints to Young Yacht Skippers - -Author: Thomas Fleming Day - -Illustrator: Warren Sheppard - -Release Date: June 13, 2016 [EBook #52324] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HINTS TO YOUNG YACHT SKIPPERS *** - - - - -Produced by Chris Curnow, Wayne Hammond and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive) - - - - - - -[Transcriber’s Note: - -Italics delimited by underscores and bold text delimited by equal -signs.] - - - - -UNIFORM EDITION - -RUDDER [Illustration] ON [Illustration] SERIES - -_Bound in blue buckram and gold, 32mo, illustrated_ - - - ON YACHTS AND YACHT HANDLING. By Thomas Fleming Day. Price $1. - - ON MARINE MOTORS AND MOTOR LAUNCHES. By E. W. Roberts, M. E. - Price $1. - - ON YACHT ETIQUETTE. Second Edition Revised. By Captain - Patterson. Price $1. - - SOUTHWARD BY THE INSIDE ROUTE. Reprint from THE RUDDER. - - HINTS TO YOUNG YACHT SKIPPERS. By Thomas Fleming Day. Price $1. - -[Illustration: AT ANCHOR.] - - - - - Hints - - TO - - Young Yacht - - Skippers - - BY - - THOMAS FLEMING DAY - - EDITOR “THE RUDDER,” AUTHOR OF “ON YACHTS AND YACHT HANDLING,” - “SONGS OF SEA AND SAIL,” ETC. - - _Illustrations by Warren Sheppard_ - - [Illustration] - - NEW YORK AND LONDON - THE RUDDER PUBLISHING COMPANY - - 1904 - - COPYRIGHT 1904 - BY - THOMAS FLEMING DAY - ALL RIGHTS RESERVED - - THOMSON & COMPANY - PRINTERS - 9 MURRAY ST., NEW YORK - U. S. A. - - - - - TO - THE OFFICERS AND MEMBERS - OF THE - SPRINGFIELD YACHT CLUB - - -[Illustration] - - - - -INTRODUCTION. - - -This book is the response to a constant appeal for information. During -the last nine years I have received thousands of letters, asking for -hints on all manner of subjects relating to the care, handling, buying -and equipping of small yachts. The majority of these letters came -from boys and young men living throughout the world, who were just -entering the sport, and who were anxious to become skillful sailors and -competent skippers. I can thoroughly understand their position, and -sympathize with their desire for fuller and more practical knowledge -than that contained in the majority of works upon yachting. - -What knowledge I possess of this art, or profession, I have gained by -years of hard work and close observation, and having begun my studies -when very young can testify to the dearth of literature of value to the -green hand, who is looking for practical hints that will help him to -become a skillful yacht sailor. Had I possessed a book like this, it -would have saved me time, money and lots of hard work and anxiety. - -But, in using this book, it must be remembered that a hint is not a law -or a command, it is simply a concise statement for you to take, think -over, and make use of, if it appears to be logical and practical. There -may be better and easier ways of doing many of these things I speak -of--that is for you to find out. I am an authority only as far as my -knowledge goes, and no further. The basis of my authority is my years -of observation and experience; your right to confute my findings can -only be based on similar premises. Unless you have tried and proved -that my instructions are wrong, they are still good medicine. - -If a man, especially a young one, decide to go into yachting, he should -also decide to learn the business of handling these craft from the -keel up. It is not sufficient, as many of you think, that all that is -necessary is to learn how to sail a boat about. You should know not -only how to sail her, but you should know why she sails, and all about -the gear and canvas used to propel her. You should learn to rig and -unrig, to care for and to understand every part of her structure, both -above and below decks. It is certainly a sorry spectacle to see a man -sailing a yacht who cannot tie a proper knot, splice a rope, or bend a -sail, and who does not know the terms used to designate parts of the -structure which he essays to manage. If he is ashamed to learn, or if -he is too lazy to gather such knowledge, he is out a place in a sport -which is the life and joy of energetic, skillful and brave men. - -I hope all of my boys the world over who are coming into yachting, -and to assist whom I have written these words, will never be ashamed -to learn the sailor’s trade, or be too lazy to acquire all possible -knowledge relating to the art of handling vessels. You will never -regret having given your time to the study. It will bring to you that -which is more valuable than the treasures of the earth; something that -you can never be deprived of, no matter how unlucky or how unfortunate -you may be--the respect paid to the skillful by the unskillful; the -deference shown to the educated by the ignorant. - -It is as well to say here that these hints are not intended for men -owning and sailing large yachts. Such vessels are too costly to be -trusted in the hands of any men except those who are thoroughly -competent; and if an owner has not sufficient skill to handle a large -yacht it is his business to hire somebody who has. These hints are -intended for the small-boat owner and skipper. [Illustration] - - - - -HINTS TO YOUNG YACHT SKIPPERS - - -BUYING A BOAT: - -If you are going to buy a boat, either the first or last one, make -up your mind thoroughly as to what kind of a craft you want, and -what you want her for. If you want to race, it is one thing; if you -want to cruise, another. Combination cruising and racing boats are -impossibilities, and are neither one thing or other. If you are going -to build, get a good design from some man who knows his business, and -have a boat built from it in the best manner possible. A poorly or -cheaply-built boat is a losing proposition. If you are going to buy -a second-hand craft, and don’t know much about boats, get a man who -does to look over any that you think of purchasing. An honest builder -is the best man for this. Most men buy a racer for her record, and a -cruiser for her cabin. The record of a racing craft is not worth a -pinch of salt, unless the boat is in such condition as will enable her -to uphold it, and a cabin of a cruiser is of little value unless it is -surrounded by a good, seaworthy and handy outside. - - -BUYING A RACER: - -Before buying a racer, find out if she is suitable for entering in any -of the classes racing in the waters you frequent. Find out what boats -are likely to sail against her, what her measurement is under the rule -in vogue, and how and by whom she was handled when winning or losing. -These are very necessary points, if you hope to helm a winner. Many a -fast boat is condemned and sold after the first season, because the man -who owned it did not know how to handle her to win. Such a boat can -be bought and, if properly managed, be made a winner. Others are sold -because they have no earthly chance of getting a prize, no matter how -well-sailed. These latter are a very bad investment. - - -BUYING A CRUISER: - -If you want a cruising boat, her record is of no consequence, unless -it is irretrievably bad. If she has a habit of capsizing, or won’t go -to windward, you don’t want her. If she consistently leaks, you don’t -want her. If she draws a lot of water for her length, and can’t get -into your harbor except at high tide, you don’t want her. If she is -in bad repair, or is very old, you don’t want her. If you haven’t -sufficient personal knowledge to tell by looking at her how she will -handle, ask some man who has sailed her, or who has seen her sail; -better ask several, and take a general average of their testimony. -Then go and have her thoroughly looked over. If she is hauled out, -sound her bottom. Get the owner to let a builder bore her. If the chips -come out clean, white and papery, she is sound in plank. Examine the -rabbet at stem and stern and all along the keel; pierce that stick, -both inside and out. Sound the mast. Go below and look at the heels and -heads of the frames. Don’t forget the deck, cockpit floor and staving. -An experienced man can tell from the appearance of the unpainted wood -whether it is sound or not. Then examine her spars, gear, blocks and -sails; last of all, her cabin fittings, etc. - - -BUYING A BOAT AFLOAT: - -This is somewhat of a lottery, but you can generally judge of the -condition of a boat’s bottom by the condition of her topsides, and by -inspecting the inside of the hull. If there is any water in the bilge -take some up in a glass. If it is clean and fresh-smelling, you can -be sure she has a regular leak. Get a quiet look at the sucker of the -pump-rod. If it looks well-brightened up, it shows plenty of usage. If -there is no leak, notice the heels of the frames near the mast, also -the fastenings of the ends of the deck beams in that part of her. If -she strains, it will show there, if anywhere. If there are doors in -the bulkheads or lockers, see if they have been planed off, so as to -close. If she is canvased on deck or top of cabin-house, the cloth will -show if she has strained badly. All boats strain to certain extent, and -without seemingly permanent harm. - - -BUYING FROM FADS: - -I once knew a lady who would not buy a house, because she did not -like the way in which the halls between the rooms were painted. Some -yachtsmen are just as bad. Last year I met a young fellow who wanted -a knockabout with a white enameled cabin. He refused to take several, -because they lacked this inside coating. Others will be caught by -a lot of brass or gaudy cushions and curtains. Nicely varnished -spars, parceled backstays and immaculate sail covers, are other and -successful traps. Others will buy a boat because a friend has one like -it. - - -BUYING FROM REASON: - -The first and most necessary thing is that the vessel’s bottom be -sound; the second, that the decks be tight; the third, that the spars -are in good condition. If she is right in these three points, you can -find out the rest by sailing her, and in that way only. Many a good -boat is condemned for some trivial cause. She may have a leak which -can be easily stopped; her sails may be poor, that can be remedied; or -her gear worn out. If so, give the seller a chance to make good before -breaking off negotiations. Tell him what you see or think is wrong, -and let him have a chance to explain or make good. Don’t go away, as -many do, and blackguard a boat because it is not just in the order or -condition you expected to find it. - - -BUYING OUT OF REPAIR: - -Sometimes a boat out of repair can be bought cheap, and is a good -bargain. But, before buying, consult a builder, and find out if the -craft can be repaired, and if it is worth repairing. I have found that -you can generally trust a builder’s word on this question, as they -dislike to work over a worthless craft. If the builder tells you she is -no good, don’t touch her, no matter how cheap she is offered. - - -BUYING THROUGH A BROKER: - -I strongly advise young yachtsmen to buy their boats through a broker, -if it is a second-hand craft. These men are up to all the tricks of -the trade, and are thus able to safeguard a client’s interests. If the -boat is registered, they will attend to the custom-house part of the -transaction, and get the thing put through properly, besides saving you -endless bother. If she is not registered, they will get you a proper -bill of sale, and see that the boat has no liens or mortgages lying -against her. I have known several cases where men have bought and paid -for boats only to find that the vessel was mortgaged, or else somebody -unknown was a part owner. - - -INVENTORY: - -Be sure and get a written inventory before buying, and have it -checked off before making the final payment. It is, I regret to say, -a too common practice among some sellers to skin-out a boat before -delivering her. Or, if this is not done, to substitute cheaper articles -for the ones on board. It is also frequent for purchasers to call for -things that are not on board, and which they suppose or think ought to -be, and this leads to a disagreement. A written inventory will settle -the question; verbal statements are worthless. - - -NAUTICAL INSTRUMENTS, CHARTS, ETC.: - -Nautical instruments, charts, books, private flags, clothes, etc., -are personal belongings, and are not part of a boat’s fittings or -furniture, unless so specified in the inventory. A compass is, if it -belongs in a vessel’s binnacle. A dingey or other boat if used by the -yacht as a tender goes with her, unless there is an agreement to the -contrary. Spare spars, sails, ballast and anchors, even if stowed on -shore and not used, belong to the boat, and are included in the sale, -unless otherwise specified. - - -BOAT’S NAME: - -If a boat is registered, you cannot lawfully change her name, without -the permission of the Customs. All registered vessels must have their -name and port painted on them. The name of a boat is not necessarily -sold with the craft, but the former owner cannot prevent you from using -the old name if you wish to, unless you have made an agreement before -buying not to do so; nor can he prevent you from changing the name. - -[Illustration: MAKING SAIL.] - - -MASTS: - -If for any reason you remove your mast, be careful to note its -position, so that it can be put back again as it was before. If wedged, -mark the wedges before taking them out, so you can put them back again -in their proper places. The rake of a mast has frequently much to do -with a boat’s good sailing. - - -MASTS: - -To remove a mast, if you have no shears convenient, place another boat -with a mast as tall, or taller than yours, close alongside, and lash -her fast. Then place a sling round the mast to be removed in such a -position as you think the stick will balance. To this hook in the -throat halyards of the assisting boat. Remove the wedges, and if the -fit in the partners is tight well-grease the houseings. Then send a -man in forward with a sharp-edged bar and let him pry the heel out of -the step as you hoist on the halyard. Use your own halyards as guys to -steady the spar. Keep the spar steady; if allowed to fall over it will -very likely split the partners. You can step a mast by reversing this -method. - - -BOOMS: - -Booms are frequently sprung and spoiled by hauling down hard on the -sheet and pulling up the lift. The boat being left at anchor, it rains; -the ropes shrink, and the end of the spar is pulled up and the spar -sprung out of shape. Do not set up taut on your lift if it looks like -wet weather. - - -RIGGING ON RACING CRAFT: - -The less running rigging you have on a racing craft the better, as a -complication of tackle, lifts, sheets, etc., make it more difficult to -handle sails quickly. Use as simple tackles as possible, and have as -light gear as will do the work. The running rigging of a racing yacht -should be constantly looked to, and at the first sign of weakness be -replaced by new. - - -HOOPS: - -Hoops, to work easy, should be quite some bigger than the mast. -Grease the foreside of the spar frequently, and they won’t stick when -hoisting. If you don’t like grease, you can keep them from sticking -by taking a piece of small line and with it linking them together by -clove-hitching each one. In this way they will be kept horizontal when -being hoisted. Always put on several more hoops than there are grommets -for, so that if one breaks you can replace without removing your -rigging. - - -BLOCKS: - -Don’t buy or use cheap blocks; they are the worst investment you can -make, as they will be an endless source of trouble. Don’t use blocks -with sharp edges to the shell, as they will soon fray and strand your -gear. It is a common practice of riggers to put on a block the swallow -of which will just carry a certain sized rope; consequently, when the -cordage gets wet and swells, it sticks, and the sail won’t come down. -This generally happens in bad weather, when you want things to run -smoothly. Always have the swallow bigger than the rope, by at least -one size. For instance, if using a 12-thread rope, have the block made -to carry a 15-thread. - - -SPINNAKER POLE, HOW TO RIG IT FOR RACING: - -To rig a spinnaker pole for racing, when the stick is not too heavy -to be lifted and handled by two men, have at the head or outboard end -a band, or grommet, with three eyes, one on top and one on each side. -Put snaphooks on your guys, so that all gear can be quickly removed -from the pole. Have snap-hooks on both ends of your halyard. Make your -halyard fast on each side in the rigging. - - -SPINNAKERS: - -If you have a forehatch, after stopping the spinnaker coil it -snake-fashion right under the opening. Screw a hook to the underside -of the deck, where it can be readily reached, and hook the head of the -sail to it then when wanted the tack man can reach it without getting -up or jumping below. It is frequently necessary in order to make a -quiet move to get this sail ready without your rival knowing what you -are up to. - - -SPINNAKERS: - -These sails are of little or no use if the boom cannot be carried -square to the length; the minute they have to be guyed forward they -lose their power, and it is better to take them in and use the balloon -headsail. Do not haul the tack of the sail hard down; let it light up -and leave an opening between the luff and the mast. Spinnakers cut with -a deep roach, so as to hang below the pole, are no good. Remember, that -the spinnaker is a depressing, not a lifting, sail, as many suppose, -and has a tendency to force a vessel’s head down, unless the sheet is -lighted up. - - -SPINNAKER, TO SHIFT ONE FROM SIDE TO SIDE: - -If a light pole, this can be easily and quickly done. Let go the after -guy and swing the pole forward; unship the heel and run the pole aft -along the deck on the side you want to set it, being sure to keep it -clear until the head is abaft all sheets, etc. Have the other end of -the halyard ready, let go the sail, cast off one end and snap in the -other end, and hoist away. While those forward are doing this the after -man can carry the guy over and pass it forward outside the rigging. -Then shove the pole out right ahead, ship the heel, and haul aft the -guy. By being able to shift a spinnaker quickly you can frequently -manage to get away from a rival who is following close in your wake and -blanketing you. It is a maneuvre that should be constantly practiced by -a racing crew. - - -SPINNAKER, TO SET A, WHEN RIGGED WITH A LIFT: - -If your pole is carried aloft, lower it down by the lift, and square -with the fore and after guys. Hook the clew to sheet or outhaul, and -the head to the halyard, hoisting and hauling out at the same time. -When in position break out. To take in, haul the foot in first and -muzzle the sail before letting go the halyard. - - -SPINNAKER POLE: - -As soon as you are through with the spinnaker pole, unsnap the guys and -coil them up. In this way you keep them in readiness for instant use -on either side, and free the pole of all incumbrance. A spinnaker pole -carried on end with all its gear is a nuisance on a small boat, besides -adding to the weight and windage aloft. [Illustration: REACHING.] - - -CREW, STATIONS FOR: - -In handling sails the crew should be given certain stations, and taught -to keep them. Each man should be allotted a certain task, and be -instructed to attend to that, and not to interfere with the others. If -you have a crew of four, including yourself, your place is at the helm; -the man in your watch stays with you in the cockpit, or aft, unless -called forward; the mate and his watch work forward. The lightest man -is the tackman. His business is to take the tack of the sails. He -always works furthest forward, going out on the bowsprit to snap on -jibs, etc. The mate works behind him attending to the halyards and gear -about the mast. - - -CREW STATIONS FOR GETTING UNDERWAY: - -When making sail, the mate and the tackman go to the main halyards, one -taking the throat and the other the peak. The skipper and his watch -look out for the lashings, crotch, sheet, and see the gaff clear of the -lifts. If the boat is a yawl, they cast loose and hoist the mizzen, the -mate and tackman attending in the same way to the headsails. The after -guard looks after the jib sheets and backstays, the forward gang get -the anchor and cat it, standing by forward until she is properly cast -and underway; then they clear up decks. - -[Illustration: CREW STATIONS--ON THE WIND RACING.] - - -LIGHT SAILS, HANDLING: - -The handling of light sails is the best measure of the merits of a -crew. The bungling of light canvas shows that the crew are not properly -drilled, and that the skipper is a muff, or else is slack in attention -to his duties. Nothing looks prettier than to see running sails handled -quickly. To do this it is necessary to thoroughly drill your crew at -stations, and to practice them in setting, shifting and taking in the -light sails. - - -CREW STATIONS FOR REEFING: - -The mate and tackman go to the halyards; the man aft stands by the peak -downhaul, if necessary, after getting the sheet in. When the sail is -down the skipper and his watch take the pendant, and after the tackman -has tied in haul the foot of the sail out, the mate standing amidships -and helping by lighting the cloth along. When properly hauled out the -skipper or his man pass the clew lashing. Then all hands tie in, the -mate and tackman working from the middle of the boom forward, the -others aft. Then the mate and his watch hoist the sail, those aft -keeping it clear of the lifts, and working the sheet. - -[Illustration: CREW STATIONS--TO SET SPINNAKER.] - - -CREW STATIONS FOR SETTING A SPINNAKER: - -Get the boom along on the side you want to use it, with the heel aft -and the head just forward of the rigging. See that it is clear of the -jib sheets. Take your after guy outside the rigging and snap it into -the grommet, or eye, on the spar. Snap in the fore guy, if you use one, -and place the coil in the bow. When ready, let the tackman snap the -halyard to the head, being sure there are no turns in the sail; then -the mate, who has the halyard, can hoist away. When the sail is up -belay the halyard and snap in the clew of the sail in the grommet or -eye on top of the boom, at the word “ready!” the tackman and mate seize -the pole and shove it out right ahead, until the latter can ship the -heel. At the order from the mate, “haul aft!” the man in the cockpit -hauls on the after guy until the boom is square. The tackman stands by -the fore guy and the mate seizes the tack and breaks the sail out. To -take in reverse these proceedings. - - -SAILS: - -Sails, if not used, should be frequently cast adrift and aired. Light -sails stowed below, either in bundles or bags, should be attended to in -this manner. It is best to have your headsails fitted with snaphooks, -so they can be taken off and stowed below. - -[Illustration: CREW STATIONS--TACKING OR WEARING.] - - -SAILS: - -Sails are not made of iron; neither are they made of rubber. Canvas, -especially when new, should be treated with gentleness. It is very -easy to spoil a sail. More bad sails are made by yachtsmen than -by sailmakers. When bending a new sail haul it out along the spar -hand-taut and lash it. Then let the wind stretch it out, you taking up -the slack day by day. As it comes, you can put more strain on it until -it reaches its proper place. In damp weather, ease it in at the head -and foot. - - -SAILS: - -When measuring your boat for a suit of sails, do not try to put on -every inch the spars will carry. Leave plenty of drift between the -hoist and the block and a good length at the end of each spar. This -will give you a chance to properly stretch your canvas. The foot of all -sails should be kept well up off the deck, so as to allow plenty of -room for the wind to escape from under them. Also, keep the leach of -the headsail away from the mast. Sails should never be made to lap if -it is possible to sheet them without doing so. - -[Illustration: CREW STATIONS--REEFING.] - - -SAILS: - -Take the same care of your sails as you do of your best suit of -clothes. When you get a new suit, you don’t start in by stretching the -back of the coat, and by pulling like mad on the legs of the trousers. -Canvas is woven just as cloth is. When you put your clothes away you -don’t roll them up in a tight ball and leave them in a damp place for -days at a time. Remember this. - - -HOISTING SAILS: - -The luff of a mainsail should be pulled on until it is taut, but it -should never be sweated until the bolt-rope is nigh to parting. The -peak should be hoisted until the proper draft appears in the luff. In -light airs a better draft will be had by slacking both peak and luff -and by hauling up the weather lift, so as to take the weight of the -boom off the canvas. The lighter the wind the more baggy your sail -wants to be. - - -STOWING SAILS: - -If you are not going to stay on board, do not stow your sails in -tight rolls; make up loosely and tie well; but be sure that the air can -get at the canvas. It is the weather, not work, that wears out sails. - -[Illustration: CREW STATIONS--SETTING OR SHIFTING HEAD SAILS.] - - -SAIL COVERS: - -Sail covers are the sailmaker’s best friend. They destroy more sails -than any other one thing. If a boat has a crew always on board, or -someone constantly near to look after the canvas, they are very useful -contrivances, but should never be left over sails for days at a time; -the moisture collects under them and rots the cloth. - - -STORM JIBS: - -Storm jibs, as shown in most sail plans, are altogether too small, and -are of no use whatever. When a sail of that size would be any good it -would be blowing too hard to use any canvas forward of the mast. A -storm jib wants to be big enough to give the boat some life. To do this -it must have a pull to it. They should be roped heavily, and have good -strong clew pieces and irons. The only way to set them is flying. - - -SHIFTING JIBS IN HEAVY WEATHER: - -If you have to shift jibs in a blow, with a heavy sea running, it is -an extremely difficult and sometimes dangerous job. The jib you are -going to set should be stopped up, as it is much easier to handle in -that form. In getting in a jib at such times be very careful about how -you slack off the sheet, as men are frequently knocked off a spar or -hurt by the sheet being let fly while they are on the bowsprit. Don’t -have any more men forward than are actually needed to shift the sails, -as their weight will depress the boat’s head and make it wet working. - - -COILS OF GEAR: - -If your running gear is stowed around the mast when underway in bad -weather, it is a good plan to trice the coils up in the rigging. Here -it will not get washed loose and tangled up, and can be readily found -and handled. Gear in the coil should always be kept clear for running; -nothing looks worse, or is worse, than a mess of halyards lying about a -boat’s deck or cockpit. Teach your crew to always coil down the gear at -once, and to always turn the coil over, so that it will run clear when -let go. - - -RUNNING GEAR: - -The ends of all halyards, sheets and lifts should be made fast, if you -are going to sail at night, or in rough weather, as they are liable -to get adrift and cause a lot of trouble before being recovered. -Frequently, when letting the sail run in a hurry, the halyards will -bunch and go aloft; if the end is fast you can easily recover them. The -readiest way to make the end fast is to open the strands and pass the -pin or cleat through the rope. - - -RUNNING RIGGING: - -The length of life of your running rigging can be increased by turning -the rope end-for-end, thus bringing a new part to work in the blocks. -Sheets are apt to wear and strand where they play in the block when the -boat is close-hauled. - - -JIB SHEETS: - -If your jib sheets are rove double bring both ends aft and join them -behind the cockpit; then the hauling part will not get away from you, -and can always be found, even in the darkest night. Another way is to -bore a hole in the cockpit rail, pass the end through and knot it. - - -PEAK DOWNHAUL: - -In heavy weather always bend a peak downhaul. Take a long enough piece -of good flexible manila and splice an eye in it. Put this eye over the -end of spar, and make the loose end fast to a lower hoop, or on the -pin rail. With this downhaul you can control the gaff and get the peak -down, no matter how hard it blows. - - -MAINSAIL HOISTING ON TRACK: - -Sails having their luff running on a track up the mast will frequently -stick, despite the assurances of the inventor and vendor of these -patent devices. To insure working, keep the track well-greased, and let -go the throat halyards before you do the peak, always keeping the gaff -at a high angle while lowering down. In this way the weight of the gaff -will force the slides down the track. - - -REEFING AT NIGHT: - -If sailing at night, and it looks at all like bad weather coming, get -in a reef in your large sail before dark, as you can do it then quickly -and properly. If suddenly struck by a heavy wind you will have your -boat better prepared to meet it. - - -REEFING: - -If you carry an amateur crew you should constantly practice them at -reefing. Give each man his station, and teach him to keep it, and not -interfere with the work of the others. It is a good plan when sailing -on a breezy day to reef and shake out several times, as this will give -your crew practice. A well-trained crew will reef a mainsail of a small -yacht in less time than it takes to write this. - - -TACKS FOR REEFING: - -Always keep a tack in your sail at each reef band. Take a short piece -of small rope, whip both ends, pass this through the cringle, making -each end the same length, then open the rope just under the cringle and -pass the other part through it. Your tack will stay there and always be -ready to tie down. - - -PENDANTS FOR REEFING: - -These should always be kept rove, if the end of the boom is outboard. -If the sail is a small one, put a snap-hook on the end that goes in the -cringle, but do not trust hooks if the sail is heavy; splice your rope -in. - - -REEFING: - -When reefing a boom sail, before lying along make sure that the -mainsheet is fast, so that it cannot slip, as this happening is likely -to throw you overside. If the boat is rolling badly it is best to -secure the boom with a lashing from each side to hold it steady, as -this will make reefing easier. - -[Illustration: WIND ABAFT THE BEAM.] - - -REEFING: - -In a heavy seaway it is easier and handier to reef with all the sail -down and the boat running broad off, as she will go along steady. It is -very difficult to reef a boat when in the trough of the sea. - - -REEFING: - -When hauling out the foot of your sail to reef do not pull it out too -hard, especially if it is liable to get wet from rain or sea, as the -cloth will shrink and pull the leach out of shape. Be sure and pass a -good lashing around the pendant close to the cringle and, if there is -room, through it. Don’t haul out on your pendant until the tack is tied -in. - - -REEF, SHAKING OUT A: - -Set up on your lift. Cast off the points, beginning in the middle and -working both ways. Then cast off the tack and clew-cringle lashing; -then the pendant. Be sure all the points are loose before hoisting, as -you are liable to tear the sail if one is fast. - - -REEFING BEFORE STARTING: - -Before leaving harbor, if it looks breezy outside, tie in a reef, or -reefs. When outside, and you can feel the weight of wind, you can then -judge whether to carry more sail or not. If close-reefing, tie in -number one and then number two over it. This will enable you to shake -out one reef at a time. - - -RUNNING OFF: - -When running off in heavy weather, if you have a jib keep it on her and -haul it dead flat; then if she attempts to broach the wind hitting in -the jib will drive her head off again. All boats going where winds are -likely to be heavy should carry a small, strong headsail to use for -this purpose. - - -RUNNING OFF IN A SEAWAY: - -Keep your boom topped up, so that it is clear of the sea when she rolls -to leeward. Don’t give the sail too much sheet, as you will find that -she will steer better if the boom is at a smaller angle, and be less -likely to be broken or to damage the rigging. - - -MAINSHEET: - -Always keep a knot in the end of your mainsheet, or else make it fast. -If the end gets away you will have trouble. - - -JIBING A MAINSAIL: - -The only safe way to jibe in a breeze is to lower the peak and top up -the boom, before getting the sail over. In ordinary airs you can jibe -a boat if you pay attention to the helm, and get the sheet down flat. -Let her come easy. If forced to jibe all standing with the sheet off, -just as soon as the boom comes over put your helm, hard the other way, -so as to throw the boat round, and get the wind back of the sail. This -will break the force and save the knockdown, but is liable to break the -boom. If fitted with backstays, look out for them. - - -WEARING A YAWL: - -Slack off the mizzen sheet, if that sail is set; haul your jib -a-weather; flatten the mainsheet; put the helm up and let her come -round slowly, easing off the mainsail as she pays off. - - -STEERING A YAWL: - -Going with a strong current or tide through a channel, when there is -no wind, you can steer a yawl by taking hold of the mizzen boom and -working that sail from side to side. When beating to windward in a -light breeze, with a strong tide under the lee, hauling the mizzen to -windward will help a yawl considerably, especially if she is at all -slack-headed. - - -JIBING A YAWL: - -Haul your mizzen if set fairly flat; slack the lee jib sheet and haul -in the weather at the same time, until this sail is properly trimmed. -Get your mainsheet aft gradually. Put the helm up slowly, and if the -mizzen is set jibe that first, then the mainsail. The reason for -trimming the jib and mizzen is this: If when the mainsail comes over -she knocks down the other two sails will shoot her up in the wind, and -give you a chance to shoot her out. If the mizzen it not set, light -your jib sheets sufficiently to allow her to come up. - - -COMING TO AT A DOCK: - -If you have to come to at a dock or pier on the windward side, go well -to windward of it, lower your sail, and steer straight for it. Have an -anchor and warp ready aft, and when close enough to reach let go your -anchor and pay out, checking her way as you near the structure. - - -LYING AT A DOCK OR PIER: - -It is always best to lie head or stern on to a dock if you intend to -remain long or over night. Always run out an anchor to hold her off in -case the wind shifts, or if for any reason you have to haul out. In -making your head fast be sure to allow length enough, if in a tidal -harbor, or you will be hung up when the water falls. - - -CLUBBING: - -This is one way of getting down a narrow fairway when a swift current -is going with you. By employing it you will be able to keep off the -banks and to dodge anchored vessels. Send a man forward and let him -heave in on the anchor until it breaks, then let him keep it trailing -along the bottom, checking the vessel whenever needed, by paying out -enough slack cable to make the hook bite. The skipper at the helm can -then shear her with the rudder to port or starboard, as he wishes. The -current moving faster than the boat will give her steerageway. Instead -of an anchor you can use a heavy chain to drag along the bottom. - - -SAILING IN A CURRENT: - -If bucking a strong tide or current a vessel will answer to the -slightest touch of the helm, but if going with the stream she will -steer slowly and badly. This must be looked out for in running narrow -entrances between jetties and bars. Sometimes it is better to go out -stern first, if the wind is blowing directly in, letting the vessel -sail slowly before the wind and drop back faster with the tide. - - -SAILING AGAINST CURRENT: - -In going against a strong current to windward you can force a vessel -through, no matter how strong the tide is, if you can lay up close -enough to get the wind on one bow and the tide on the other. The -pressure of opposing forces will drive the vessel ahead. You will often -see schooners get through the Long Island Sound Race in this way -against a strong ebb, running over 5 knots. - -[Illustration: IN HARBOR, DRYING OUT.] - - -TIDE UNDER THE LEE: - -With the tide or current under the lee bow trim your after canvas dead -flat, unless the sea is large. Let her eat out to windward on an easy -helm, humoring to keep good way on all the time. - - -CURRENT, SAILING IN A CALM: - -Going through a passage with a strong favorable current and no wind, -lay your vessel broadside to the drift of the tide, then the speed -of the stream will make a breeze in the sails and give your boat -steerageway. Tack on approaching the shore, and stand over for the -other, being careful to tack while still in the strength of the stream. - - -ANCHORED IN A CURRENT: - -If at anchor in a current with the wind blowing against the tide, to -keep the yacht from riding over her anchor, tie a bucket on a rope and -drop it over the stern. This is a good way to keep a dingey away from a -yacht’s stern when tide-rode. - - -HEAVING-TO: - -To heave-to a vessel you must trim your sails so that the wind presses -on one side of one sail and the other side of the other or others. -In a boat like a sloop or yawl you can heave-to by drawing your jib -a-weather, by slacking off the lee and hauling on the weather sheet. -This causes the force of the wind in the jib to counteract the force -in the after canvas. By slacking off the mainsheet until a balance of -power is established between mainsail and jib a boat will lie almost in -one place. - - -LYING-TO: - -It is a very simple matter to lay a fore-and-aft vessel to. But in the -first place you should find out in reasonably good weather what sail -she will lie-to best under. Knowing this, snug her down to it before -bringing her head to it. The best sail is that nearest amidships; but -some boats require more after canvas and some more forward. No rule can -be laid down, each vessel in this respect being peculiar to itself. -When ready, watch your seas until after a big one has past you; get a -smooth, then put your helm down easily and bring her to with a long -sweep. The amount of sail she wants is enough to keep her just moving -ahead, so that there will be steerageway and no more. Use plenty of oil -while rounding to and afterwards, if the seas are cresting and breaking. - - -LEE SHORES: - -Unless the weather is fine and you are well acquainted with them, keep -off lee shores. A lee shore is a bad place to go aground, and it is a -bad place to be caught on if a heavy blow comes. - - -WEATHER SHORE: - -In strong winds and heavy weather it is always best to get in under the -lee of a weather shore, and to keep it aboard as long as possible. You -should figure to do this in mapping out runs from place to place. In -running a weather shore keep working your boat up to it, especially in -the bights between headlands. This will enable you to choose your own -distance in rounding the outermost points and prevent being driven off -shore. - - -CAUGHT ON A LEE SHORE: - -If caught at anchor close on a lee shore where you are too close to -wear with safety, you can get your anchor and cast your boat in the -right tack by this method: Make sail; then when all is ready heave in -until half scope; then get a bucket with a line bent to it, carry this -line outside the rigging and the bucket as far forward as possible. -Let one hand hold it ready to cast overboard on the side you want to -fill on. Haul in your anchor quickly; when broken out, heave the bucket -overboard, and give a slow, steady pull on the line from as far aft as -convenient. This will hold her stern and the bow will swing off in the -opposite direction. If you have no bucket, use a hunk of ballast, and -slip it when her head is round. - - -MISS-STAYING IN A SEAWAY: - -The cause of this is generally carelessness or haste. Sufficient way is -not on the boat when the helm is put down, owing to her being too near -the wind. Always give a boat a good full before putting the helm a-lee. -You should watch the sea and make the move when there is a smooth flat -spot between the waves. If there is any doubt of the boat’s getting -round it is better to wear her. - - -MISS-STAYING IN A SEAWAY: - -If your boat miss stays in a seaway and gets sternway on, don’t jam -your helm hard over. Keep it amidship, and try and get your headsail -a-back; then slowly put your helm over. It is a dangerous practice to -jam a helm hard over when a boat is making a stern board in a seaway, -as you are liable to damage the rudder or drive her counter under. If a -centerboard boat, pull up the board, as this will help her to fall off. - -[Illustration: REEFING.] - - -CAUGHT ON A LEE SHORE: - -If it is too windy and rough to get your anchor, prepare to slip. Get -the bitter end on deck and bend a buoy to it. See all clear to cast -over. Haul in as much as you dare to, and bend a small line to hawser -or chain. Carry this line aft to the quarter outside the rigging. When -ready, slip and haul in on the small line. As soon as she swings off -cut the spring. - - -SAILING IN A SEAWAY: - -When sailing in a seaway don’t trim a boat flat. Give her a liberal -lift of sheet, and sail her with a good full. Never let her lose way, -as your safety depends upon always having control of her motions. Keep -a close watch on the water on your weather bow, and judge how to take a -wave before it strikes you. - - -SAILING IN A SEAWAY: - -In sailing a boat in a seaway and heavy breeze amateurs are apt to make -two mistakes. One to carry too much sail, the other, too little. In the -first place, the boat cannot be kept full; in the second, she hasn’t -sufficient drive to keep her moving. Carry as much sail as she will -keep full and not bury under. - - -MIZZEN ON A YAWL: - -It is a mooted question among yawlsmen as to whether the mizzen is of -use or not when going dead before the wind. If you can wing it--that -is, get the boom on the opposite side to that of the mainboom--it is, -as it makes a boat steer steadier. But if it is off on the same side -as the mainsail it is doubtful if it helps the speed. I have tried the -experiment repeatedly and cannot find that it makes any difference in -a strong breeze; but it does help in light airs. In a strong wind the -boat will do better with the mizzen stowed, is my opinion. - - -MIZZEN ON A YAWL: - -The handling of this sail seems to be a problem that worries many young -skippers. No fixed rule can be laid down, it depending largely on -the shape of the boat, the position and size of the sails. Generally -speaking, with the wind forward or on the beam, the mizzen should be -sheeted flatter than the mainsail. How flat, depends upon the effect -it has on the steering. If the boat gripes, ease it off; if she is -slack-headed, haul it flatter. In beating through a narrow channel work -it as you do the jib, but exactly opposite; that is, with the helm -a-lee haul in flat; as she pays off ease the sheet. In this way you -will help the rudder to bring the boat round. The mizzen sheet should -be belayed where the helmsman can readily get at it, so that by working -the sheet in combination with the tiller he can control his vessel. - - -WORKING TO WINDWARD: - -In working to windward in open water for a long distance stand on the -tack which looks up nearest to your destination. On this tack the -wind is as foul as it is possible for it to be, and cannot shift in -either direction without favoring you. Attention should be paid to the -probable direction of the shift, and a course shaped that will bring -you into such a position as will lift your vessel up and not throw her -to leeward of her course. For instance, if the wind is East, stand on -the tack towards the Southeast, because it is probable that the wind -will move round with the sun across your bow and be constantly freeing -you until you can stand your course on the other tack. This is largely -a study of local conditions, and can be mastered only by constant -observation of the tendencies of the wind at certain seasons of the -year. - - -WORKING TO WINDWARD: - -If the wind is offshore, blowing at an angle, so that you can make a -long and short leg, keep close under the weather shore, as the wind -will draw more favorable there than further out. For instance, if the -shore lies East and West and the wind be Southwest, under the weather -shore it will haul more to the South, sometimes as much as a point, -thus enabling you to lengthen your long leg. Besides, you have the -advantage of smoother water. - - -WORKING TO WINDWARD CRUISING: - -If the wind is so foul as to be dead ahead it is waste of labor to try -to beat a small boat a long distance to windward. With the best of -handling you cannot make more than three miles an hour, and a very good -day’s work is twenty miles. Probably the next day the wind will come -favorable, and you can make that twenty miles in four or five hours. If -you are pressed for time and have to do it, take the first of the fair -tide. - - -LIGHT SAILS, SHEETING: - -Never sheet light balloon or running sails; let them sheet themselves. -If you trim these sails the way you do working canvas you will destroy -much of their power. To get the sail right, slack off the sheet until -the luff trembles, then belay. If you sheet them, the whole after angle -becomes a back sail. The object is to get them to pull ahead, not -sideways. The minute a balloon sail has to be sheeted aft to make it -draw take it in and set your working canvas. You will do better with it. - - -ROUNDING A MARK: - -Coming down to round a mark with running sails set, when within fair -working distance hoist and sheet your working headsails, if the -ballooner is not set on the jib-stay. Get your main sheet aft and -runners ready; then when close to the mark take in your spinnakers -and ballooner. In this way you are ready at once to haul on the wind. -If you take in your light sails first you will have them littering up -the deck and in the way, delaying getting the working sails set and -sheeted, and consequently the boat instead of being able to make a -sharp turn will drag off to leeward. - - -ROUNDING A MARK: - -If rounding a mark to leeward, always do so before you reach it. In -order to do this, if possible, keep away from it some distance, and put -your helm down gradually; then you will not kill the boat’s way and -will give your crew time to get the sheets flattened down. If you come -down and take the mark close aboard and then turn it, you will have to -put your helm hard down, killing the boat’s way and causing her to sag -off to leeward. - - -ROUNDING A MARK: - -If another boat is abreast of or overlapping, and will be between you -and the mark, try and drop back before reaching the turning stake, so -as to let her get ahead. You will lose less by doing so than you will -by rounding close under her lee, as once round you can probably free -your wind and get clear of her wake by a sharp luff. You have also a -chance to cut in if her crew make a fumble of their sheet work; but if -you are under her you will have no chance at all. - -[Illustration: RUNNING BEFORE THE GALE.] - - -ROUNDING, A WINDWARD MARK: - -Before rounding a windward mark, if the next leg is a run, make up your -mind which side you are going to carry your spinnaker on. Get the pole -along on that side and the after guy passed and hooked on. Then before -getting to the mark hoist the spinnaker clean up and hook in the clew. -Just as soon as you are round and squared off run the pole out and -square it, and break the sail. A good crew should get a sail set in -this way in fifteen seconds. - - -TRIMMING: - -A vessel to sail her best wants to be kept on a level water line; the -minute she shoves her head up or down it kills her speed. This is -true of sail, power or any kind of craft. Therefore, in racing, see -that your crew keep her trimmed to a level by constantly moving and -balancing their weights. If a man goes out on the bowsprit move a man -aft to counterbalance his weight. Never let a bunch of men get forward, -as is often done when taking in or setting light sails. It is better to -do this work slower and keep the boat properly trimmed. - - -BALLOON-JIB SHEET, TO SHIFT A: - -Have two separate sheets rigged with snaphooks. If you come down to a -mark with your balloon jib on one side and want to shift it over so as -to carry it on the other, before jibing over gather the sail up and -roll it out to the stay; there stop it. Unhook the sheet on that side -and hook on the other. As soon as you are round break out. By doing -this you don’t have the bother of passing the sheet in use forward -around the stay and aft again in the other side all of which takes time -and causes confusion. When not in use, keep the sheets hooked to the -stay, and fast aft. You can stop the sail with the sheet, using a turn -similar to that made round a flag when hoisted in a ball or bundle. - - -SHROUD-PARTING: - -If a shroud parts, go right on the other tack; then get any tackle you -can that is idle and set it up in place of the rope carried away. If -you have no tackle aloft that is not working get a piece of hawser or -large-sized rope and pass it round the mast above the other rigging. -Take it round the spar with a clove hitch and stop the end. Seize a -bight in the lower part high enough up to get the watch tackle in -between it and whatever you have at the rail to make fast to. Then set -it up and rack the tackle. If the chain plate is gone, and you have -nothing to make fast to, you can secure the lower end in this way, -as I once did. Bore a hole through the deck just inside the clamp, -and one through the side just below the clamp. Pass a piece of wire -rope through these holes and marry the ends. Into this loop hook your -tackle. All boats of any size should have two shrouds on each side. - - -BURST MAIN SHEET: - -If your main sheet bursts or the shackle breaks and the tackle gets -away, keep the boat as near the wind as possible. Then slack up on the -weather topping lift until you can reach the bight. Get this inboard -and aft, and haul on it easily, slacking down the throat of the sail -at the same time; then the peak. If you have only one lift rove, slack -down the throat, and try to get a line on the boom, as far out as -possible. If this won’t work, cut off the hoops, unship the heel of the -boom and run it inboard. It is a very dangerous situation if any sea -is on, and requires skill and courage to master it. - - -MAST CARRIED AWAY: - -If you carry away a mast in a seaway get it clear of all gear as soon -as possible, as it may smash in your side. If it is rigged with wire -shrouds and rigging screws, and you cannot get these loose, saw off the -head of the mast just below the eyes of the rigging. If the sea is not -too heavy you can veer the broken spar astern and tow it, or else haul -it in over the stern and lash it fast. It is better to save the spar, -if possible, as it makes it easier to replace it. - - -BURST BOBSTAY: - -This is a bad accident, as you are liable to lose your mast. Get the -mainsail off of her at once. If you have a crotch, put it under the -boom so as to take the weight off the mast until you have it secured. -Take your jib or staysail halyards or preventer backstays, hook them to -the bits or around the bowsprit close to the cranze, and heave taut. -Get the yacht before the wind, if possible. Then make the best job of -the bobstay you can. A watch tackle makes the best temporary repair. - - -WANT OF SPEED, I: - -The want of speed in sailing craft is due to many causes. The most -frequent is the result of over-ballasting or to the ballast being -in the wrong place. This is especially so in shoal, flat-floored -models. Frequently, if a boat prove sluggish, a yachtsman will -attempt to improve her speed by adding more sail, and then to carry -this sail, will ship more weight. Consequently, the boat is slower -and worse-acting than before. If your boat does not seem to be up to -her speed, try first by removing a portion of the ballast, and by -continually shifting the weights. To try her, sail alongside another -boat, of whose comparative speed you are aware, and you will soon find -out your boat can be improved in this way. - - -WANT OF SPEED, II: - -Sometimes the sails are to blame, usually through these not being -properly set, owing to the blocks being placed in positions where they -cannot properly hold up the spars; or, having too little draft. Want of -draft will cause a boat to be sluggish in light airs. - - -WANT OF SPEED, III: - -If shifting ballast or getting better sails will not bring the boat to -her form, try altering the position of the centerboard or mast. Much -additional speed is frequently gained by moving the mast or board. You -cannot discover the faults of a boat by analysing her design; you must -work it out by sailing her, and studying her actions in all weights of -wind. - - -SPEED, TO JUDGE: - -If you have no log, you can by practice get so that you can gauge a -boat’s speed within a half knot by watching the water. When running -along shore, make a practice of timing the boat between measured -points. By doing this constantly you will get so experienced that you -can judge by eye very close to the speed she is making. Another way is -to time her as she passes floating objects, or while passing a stick -dropped over from the bow, count the seconds one, two, three, and so -on, until it passes the stern. Knowing the length of the boat by this -means you can roughly estimate her speed through the water. If your -boat is 25 feet long, and it takes her 5 seconds to pass an object, she -is making about 3 knots. - - -TOWING: - -When towing a heavy boat or another yacht, with the wind anywhere on -the beam, make your towing warp fast on your weather quarter. This will -make the load tow easier and your boat will steer better. When towing -with the wind aft, keep the warp amidships, by using a bridle from each -quarter. If the tow is being steered, veer a long scope of hawser, so -as to get a heavy bight; this will ease the strain in a seaway. - -[Illustration: TRIPPING.] - - -TOWING ALONGSIDE: - -To tow a dingey alongside, make fast to the fore thwart, or to -anything, about one-third aft from the stem. In this way you can tow a -dingey under the lee while getting men or stores out of her. The same -plan is used in towing along a canal or narrow thoroughfare by tracking -on the bank. - - -TOWING: - -When towing, never make a warp fast so that it cannot be instantly cast -off. It is always best to keep a sharp knife handy, so as to be able to -cut the line. In a seaway this should always be looked to. - - -TOWING, TO TACK WHEN: - -When towing a heavy boat in rough water, or when the wind is scanty, -and you have to tack, place a hand or two on the line to haul in. When -ready to put the helm down have them take in considerable slack. At the -call “Helm’s a-lee!” let go the line and tack your boat on the slack -line. This will enable you to get round and have way before the pull of -the tow comes on your boat. - - -ANCHORS: - -Anchors should be looked to and taken care of just the same as any -other gear. The same with chain. If you keep your spare hook below, see -that it is a place where you can readily get at it, and not buried in a -heap of old ropes, awning stanchions, and other dunnage. I have fully -covered this subject and that of anchoring in the book, _On Yachts and -Yacht Handling_, which I advise you to read. - - -TO GET AN ANCHOR IN A SEAWAY: - -It is sometimes very difficult to get an anchor in a seaway with a hard -wind blowing. It can be done in this way: Take a turn with the hawser -round the post or bitts. Watch when she pitches. As she descends she -will slack up the hawser. Quickly take in this slack and hold when she -scends. In this way you can get it foot by foot, and, when close under, -the sea will break the hook out for you. - - -TO GET A LINE ON A FLUKE: - -If an anchor is lost or foul you can get a line on the upper fluke in -this way, if the water is not too deep: Feel for the fluke with a pole -or, better, a piece of iron gas pipe. When found, rest the pipe end on -the tip of the fluke. Then send a messenger of rope with slip noose, -down the pipe or pole until it falls over the fluke and on the arm. -Carefully haul it taut, using the pole to keep it from slipping off -until firmly fixed. By this means you can get a back pull on an anchor -and shake it loose if caught under a timber or rock. - - -TO SWEEP AN ANCHOR: - -If you have lost your anchor, and there is chain or hawser on it, -you can recover it by dragging with a grapnel back and forth across -where you suppose the hawser is lying. If there is no chain or hawser -attached, you will have to sweep for it. Take two boats and pass a -weighted line between them, then row back and forth, dragging the -bight of the line across the bottom until it finds the lost hook. -Sometimes you can get an anchor by making fast one end of the sweep -and rowing round in a circle, paying out the line as you go. Let it -sink; then bring both ends together, as fishermen do a net, and haul in -slowly. The best sweep is one made with a piece of chain in the middle. - - -TO LAY OUT AN ANCHOR: - -Get the anchor in the boat flukes toward the bow, then coil down in the -boat about two-thirds of the line to be payed out. Start the boat off -and pay out what you have on board. In this way the oarsman has not got -to drag a heavy weight of line after him. Use the same method to run -out a guess warp to be made fast ashore. - - -TO LAY OUT A HEAVY ANCHOR: - -Get two boats and lash them side by side. Put a strong stick or oar -across the gunwales and lash it fast. Lower the anchor overboard with a -tackle from aloft and swing it in between the boats, ring up. Lash the -ring to the beam. When you get to the spot where you want to drop it -set the hawser all clear for running and cut the ring lashing. - - -TO RAISE A HEAVY ANCHOR: - -Lash two boats together. Put a round beam or spar across the gunwales -and ship a couple of hand-sticks in it so as to turn it like a -windlass. Take the line on the anchor round the spar and turn, winding -it slowly up. Keep the beam from rolling out of place by two guys, one -at each end, with an eye over it. The guys want to lead from the end of -the boat on the side that the rope from the anchor comes up. - - -ANCHORING: - -Don’t anchor on bad bottom without putting a trip line on the anchor. -The worst bottom for fouling is one over which boulders are strewn. -Also be careful how you anchor in any place where sunken wrecks are -likely to be found. - - -MOORINGS: - -The weight necessary to furnish a secure mooring depends upon the -locality, the amount of exposure, the depth and character of the -bottom, and the weight and model of the boat. It is always better when -on the safe side by using as heavy a mooring as possible. For ordinary -conditions, multiply the length over all of the boat by five, the -answer being the weight in pounds that is needed. In exposed situations -this weight should be largely increased. The best moorings are mushroom -anchors, where the bottom is suitable for their use, as they can be -readily recovered when it is desirable to take them up. - - -MAKING A MOORING: - -To do this properly requires judgment and practice. Nothing looks -worse than to see a man make a bungle of getting a mooring. If he is -familiar with his boat, there is no excuse for mismanaging the job. The -first thing to learn is how far your boat will carry way when thrown -into the wind. This you can find out only by observation and practice. -Having discovered this, set a range on shore to use when coming to; -one that will place you at about the right distance. A better plan is -to calculate your distances by lengths of your boat. If your boat is -thirty feet long, and will carry way for six lengths, luff up at a -distance of 180 feet. Always, if you have good way on, go directly to -leeward of the mooring. Luff with a long sweep, for if you put your -helm over too quickly you will kill the boat’s way and fall short. -If the wind is light, go to leeward and come to the buoy at an angle, -with your sheets lighted up; then by trimming and spilling you can baby -her up to the mooring. If a boat is coming with too much way on you can -kill her speed by shoving the helm hard across, first one way and then -the other. Take an afternoon off some day and practice picking up your -mooring and you will soon have it down to a science. - -[Illustration: AT ANCHOR, BLOCK ISLAND POND.] - - -MAKING A MOORING TO LEEWARD: - -This should never be done unless you have to, as it is more likely to -get you into a mix-up. But in places where there is strong tide running -against the wind it is the only way. Go well to windward, and take -enough sail off so that she will just about stem the tide; then steer -right for the buoy and pick it up, getting sail down at once. - - -MOORING HOOK: - -Get an iron hook made, shaped like the hooks used by women on their -dresses, only longer in the shank. Splice a rope to this and then -fasten to it and the rope a short piece of stick, long enough to reach -from the rail to the water. When you come to the mooring the bowman -can hook this into the ring and hold her until you get the sail down -and can pass the mooring warp. A little practice with one of these -contrivances will make a man so expert that he can catch the ring every -time, even by throwing the hook several feet. - - -MOORING WARP: - -If your boat lies at moorings where there is constant jump of sea on, -or where the tide and wind keep her yawing about, the warp should be -well-armored where it comes through the chock or over the rail. Leather -is best for this. A boat will lie much easier if a bridle is used, an -end being brought aboard at each bow. Don’t leave the warp hanging to -the buoy, especially if the water is foul or the bottom muddy. Not only -will it rot, but every time you take it on board it will dirty the boat. - - -MOORING CHAIN: - -It is best to use a heavy chain, much heavier than is really needed, to -stand the strain, as the boat will ride in all ordinary weather to the -weight of the chain, and not to the block or anchor. In this way she -will take the seas easier and not try the gear so much. - - -DROPPING A MOORING: - -This is a simple proceeding, if you have plenty of sea room on either -side of you. If not, use a cant line, as it will enable you to cast -your boat on either tack. To do this take a light line and pass it -through the ring on the buoy, and bring both ends aft outside the -rigging to the quarter. If you want to go off on the port tack, -bringing it on the port quarter, and on the starboard tack on that -quarter. Let go the mooring warp and hold on to the cant line until she -swings and fills; then let go one end of it and it will slip the buoy -ring. If you want to go off before the wind hang on until she comes -stern to the buoy, then slip. This is a much simpler and surer way than -trying to cast her with the mooring warp. - - -MOORINGS: - -Most accidents happen to moored yachts, not through the anchor failing -to hold, but through the line or chain parting. Frequently the line is -too short, and an extra high tide, such as often accompanies a storm, -causes the boat to lift the anchor. Most accidents happen late in the -season when the gear is rotted after months of laying on the mud. -Mooring gear should be frequently looked to. - - -HAWSERS: - -Hawsers, such as are employed on yachts, are very perishable articles, -and should be frequently aired. Excessive dryness is very bad for -manila rope. To prolong the life of a hawser that is used for anchoring -it should be turned end-for-end frequently. If used in water where -sewerage or chemical refuse is present, wash the rope thoroughly in -clean water before stowing away. - - -CHAIN: - -Chain is much cleaner than rope for use as anchor warp where the bottom -is muddy. Chain should be frequently examined and tested, as it is -liable to develop weak links, which will give way when least expected. - - -ANCHORED IN AN EXPOSED HARBOR: - -If anchored in an exposed harbor, before turning in at night reef your -principal sail or sails, so that if it comes on to blow you will be in -shape to get quickly away. - - -ANCHOR LIGHT: - -Pay strict attention to the rule requiring a riding light to be set -from sunset to sunrise, if in a place where other vessels are likely -to come. Hoist it in such a position that it will not be completely -shadowed by the mast from astern. If in close quarters, it is as well -to have another light aft, or at the end of the main or mizzen boom. - - -LIGHTS: - -Make a practice of looking to your lights early in the day. Fill and -clean them all so they will be ready for instant use. Side lights, -riding, and binnacle lights, are too often neglected, and when suddenly -wanted are empty and cannot be shown. It is difficult, and sometimes -dangerous, to fill lamps in the dark. - - -LIGHT, A FLARE: - -If sailing in waters where big vessels are frequenting the fair ways, -always keep a flare handy during the dark hours. A bunch of rags tied -on a stick, with a can of kerosene to dip it into, makes a good flare. -In case a vessel does not see your side lights and bears down on you, -you can warn her off with a good bright flame. - -[Illustration: SHEETS LIFTED.] - - -LIGHTS, BINNACLE: - -The ordinary brass or wooden binnacles made for small yachts are -pretty, but of very little use at night. The lamps will not burn if the -lid is closed, owing to the heated air driving or keeping out the fresh -and starving the flame of oxygen. The best binnacle is a box large -enough to hold a small lantern. The lantern should be of brass, not -iron. Such lantern can be bought for 25 cents in nearly any hardware -store. Get two, keeping one in reserve in case of accident. Bore plenty -of holes in the sides of the box. The best oil to use is railway signal -oil, which is a mixture of lard and kerosene. - - -SIDE LIGHTS: - -Side lights should be carried well up the rigging, so as to make them -visible as far as possible. On launches they should be put on top of -the cabin house. Six feet above deck on a small yacht is about the best -height. This is high enough to keep them from being washed out. - - -STERN LIGHT: - -A lantern should always be kept handy just inside the cuddy doors to be -shown for a stern light if a vessel comes up from aft. If a steamer is -coming down on you from anywhere astern pull back the companion slide -and let the cabin light shine on the sail; they will be sure to see the -reflection and know what it is ahead of them. - - -WATER TANKS: - -Water tanks, no matter how small, should be fitted with splash plates, -and plenty of them. Else when half full they will be the worst nuisance -possible in a seaway. If the tank is large it should not only have -athwartship plates, but plates fore-and-aft. In power boats especially -they should be fitted in this way, as such craft are generally bad and -persistent rollers. - - -WATER: - -Drinking water causes more sickness than all other foods combined, and -yachtsmen cannot be too careful where they get their supply. If you are -not certain sure of the fluid, boil it before using. Also keep your -tanks clean, and don’t put new water in on top of old that has been -in the tanks for weeks, or perhaps months. One time I was going on a -cruise and ordered the crew to fill the tanks, but cautioned them not -to take the supply from a pipe that led to the dock, but to go to the -clubhouse for it. When my back was turned they decided that the pipe -water was good enough, and filled up with it. Consequently we got a -dose of iron rust that laid the whole crowd out for three days with an -attack that would have turned Mr. Beacham green with envy. If the water -gets riley from shaking up in a seaway you can instantly clear it for -drinking by putting in the glass a few drops of lime juice. - - -MEDICINE CHEST: - -When off cruising, a yacht should have in her locker some simple -remedies. Much suffering has been entailed by neglect of this -precaution. A roll of bandage, and some absorbent cotton, some Pond’s -Extract, salve, a few pills, and a diarrhæa medicine, are good things -to have. I have known of a man being badly burned, and having to suffer -for hours before a port could be made, because there was nothing on -board to ease the pain. - - -LOG: - -A log is a most useful instrument, not only to register distance, but -to tell you what your boat is doing under different sails. There are -several logs now made suitable for small craft. By watching the log -when you are sailing you can tell whether or not your craft is doing -her best. By employing it I have frequently found that a measure that I -supposed would add speed has worked just to the opposite. For instance, -I have put on more sail, and found by the log that instead of making -the boat go faster it has made her move slower. It will also aid you in -properly sheeting your sails, so as to get the most effective work out -of the canvas. Logs are a great comfort in thick weather, when running -for a landfall, as they give you warning of your approach to it, and -save a lot of worry. But they must never be implicitly trusted. - - -BAROMETERS: - -Always when cruising carry a barometer, and constantly watch it. -This instrument does not foretell the weather except indirectly. It -is simply an instrument for measuring the weight of the atmosphere. -No change of weather takes place without a change of the weight of -the air; therefore, when the barometer remains steady there will be -no change. If it goes up or down it means that some change will take -place. By learning what usually follows such fluctuations you can -employ it to help you in determining or foretelling the future weather -conditions. - - -WEATHER: - -The study of the weather is a most necessary as well as an interesting -occupation. To make a success of it you must constantly observe the -barometer, the sky, and the sea. By learning the meaning of the colors -in the heavens at sunset and sunrise, and by knowing the different -forms of cloud, you can nine times out of ten foretell the weather -for the next day or two. The color of the sea and its movements are -also a guide. The actions of fish, birds and animals, like whales and -porpoises, will also aid you. Nothing should be too minute to escape -the seaman’s observations, if he wants to become weather-wise. - - -WINDS: - -Make a study of the winds in the locality in which you sail. You will -find that nine times out of ten they go through the same routine in -shifting. By learning the manner in which they change you can take -advantage of these shifts. The winds in summer generally follow the -sun in its circuit, until they get back to their proper place. If they -go the other way, what is called back, you can never trust them to stay -long, and it is usually a sign of bad weather. In sounds and estuaries -the wind usually comes in with the flood tide. If this tide makes in -the morning the wind will stay all day; if the flood makes in the p. m. -hours it will not last long. If the wind comes in strong against the -tide look out for a long blow. Offshore winds usually come and go with -the sun, reaching their maximum velocity at noon and midnight. - - -WINDS: - -After a heavy squall you will usually have a calm spell or an offshore -breeze. Winds blowing in from the ocean are weaker on the weather side -of an island and heavier and puffy on the lee side. On calm nights a -gentle air can often be found close under the land, when there is none -in mid-channel. - - -SQUALLS: - -Never parley with a squall. Take in sail at once. You can never tell -from the appearance of a squall how much wind is in it. The most -innocent-looking are generally the most dangerous. I was once on a -yacht when a squall appeared that looked more like rain than wind. All -hands except the skipper, an old man, decided that it would not amount -to much. The skipper, much to our disgust, insisted upon taking all -sail off. We had scarcely got the canvas lowered and gasketed before -the squall struck, and laid the yacht over on her side and kept her -there until the blast had spent itself. The force of the blow was -terrific; probably the air was traveling at the rate of 70 or 80 miles -an hour. A large lumber-laden schooner close to had her foresail blown -clean away and lost part of her deck load. This taught me a lesson I -have never forgotten. - - -SQUALLS: - -If becalmed, at the approach of a squall, get the vessel headed toward -the point you expect the blast to come from, so that the wind will -strike her bow on, and not on the broadside. If the squall looks to be -a lasting one, anchor, if in shallow water. - - -SQUALLS, TIME OF: - -Squalls on the seacoast generally come off at either high or low -water. If they come between tides they are apt to be bad ones. If -your feelings or the barometer tell you a squall is likely to come -off, carefully watch inshore for the appearance of the wind. White -squalls--that is, sudden blows unaccompanied by cloud or rain, are -the most likely to catch you napping. They sometimes precede a sudden -change of wind. If you see the water suddenly whiten inshore, look out -for trouble, and lower all sail at once. - - -SQUALL, STRUCK BY A: - -If struck by a sudden squall, let go your main throat halyards -first--not the peak. By keeping the peak up you will be able to luff -the boat; letting go the throat will relieve her until you can get in -the wind and get your sail down and muzzled. If you cannot get your -sail down, get her off before the wind and haul your mainsail flat -amidship; then steer so as to bring the wind dead aft. This will split -the force and give you a chance to take in sail. - - -TIDES: - -The time of the tide has much to do with the strength of the wind in -sounds, bays, and channels. If a morning flood brings in the wind it -will usually blow all day. Ebb tide in the morning is apt to produce -calm or light winds during the summer months on our Eastern seaboard. -Thunder squalls are also affected by the condition of the tide, coming -off land at either high or low water. - -[Illustration: THE COMING SQUALL.] - - -TIDES: - -Roughly speaking, the tide is one hour later every day. It is -theoretically high when the moon bears directly South, either on one -side of the world or the other, but actually the friction of the water -causes a retardation which delays the wave until sometime after the -moon has made its southing. - - -TIDES: - -Channels open at both ends have generally very strong tidal currents, -but a small rise and fall. The highest tides are in funnel-shaped bays -or estuaries directly open to the sea. The day tides are generally -higher than those at night. - - -HIGH WATER: - -High water does not in many cases coincide with the stop of the -current. In places situated upon sounds, channels and passages, the -current continues to flow long after it is high water. The same with -the ebb, which runs after the tide has reached its lowest level. - - -HIGH WATER: - -Frequently the tide is not found to be high at the time given in the -tables, and very often the current does not turn at the hour and minute -predicted. This does not prove that the tables are unreliable or -worthless. The tide is frequently prolonged or retarded by the wind, -which, acting either with or against it, causes the current to run with -greater or less force. - - -TIDES: - -A correct and extensive knowledge of the tide is essential to good -work, if navigating salt water. A constant study should be made of -the tides, learn their strength, direction and height. Always carry a -tide book, and make a habit of consulting the tables. By knowing the -exact time of the current changes and the locations where they change -earliest you will save hours of time in getting from port to port. In -estuaries and sounds the current generally runs longest in mid-channel -and changes on the inshore first. So if carrying the last of a tide -keep in midstream; if using the first of it keep inshore. Eddies can -be found by examining the shore line, and drawing conclusions from the -trend of the coast. Much distance can sometimes be gained by working -eddies if sailing against an adverse current. - - -ATTRACTION: - -Floating objects have a tremendous attraction for each-other, and if -lying becalmed will gradually draw together. This is an influence -shared by every particle of matter in the universe, but passes -unnoticed upon land where we only see it manifested as weight. It no -doubt accounts for many of the collisions at sea in thick weather. Many -strandings are also due to this attraction which draws vessels towards -the land. In sailing at night or in thick weather along a coast, this -force should be allowed for. It is most likely to be felt on high, bold -shores, and least on low, shallow ones. It is this attraction that -causes your dingey on a still night to insist upon lying against the -stern or side of the yacht. - - -WORKING CRAFT AND STEAMERS: - -Yachtsmen should never unnecessarily bother coasters or steam vessels, -or any craft that is on the water for business. A yacht can be easily -cast from tack to tack, whereas it is a laborious job to turn a heavily -laden schooner round. But if you are not going to insist upon having -the right of way always tack or shift your helm in plenty of time, so -that the other man can know what you are about. If you decide to stand -on, do so, and don’t balk at the last moment when close aboard of the -other vessel. It is this indecision which leads to collisions. - - -COASTERS: - -The lookout on coasters is generally badly kept, owing to their being -short-manned, and sometimes to carelessness. At night and in foggy -weather keep out of their track, if possible. Also, keep out of the way -of tugs towing barges, as they are bad customers, who pay little or no -attention to the rights of small craft. Large steamers are as a general -thing very carefully navigated, and can be trusted to go clear, if -they see you; but remember that yacht side lights are poor things, and -cannot be seen at any distance. - - -ANCHORED VESSELS: - -Never try to cross the bows of anchored vessels, especially sailing -craft, unless you are well to windward of them. Trying to shave a -jib-boom has cost many a man a spar or a sail. It is always best if -there is any doubt of clearing to go under the vessel’s stern. - - -UNDERWAY, VESSELS: - -Don’t attempt to cross the bows of another vessel, especially a larger -one, when underway, unless you are certain you can clear her. You will -be clear of the other vessel, providing she holds the same course, when -you can see her anchor on the further bow. In meeting a large sailing -vessel, head to head, don’t pass close along her lee side; your boat -may become becalmed, soak in, and get a nasty swipe from a boom end. - - -CRUISING: - -The rule for a cruiser is to start early and finish early. Map out a -run that with the expected conditions you can complete easily in the -allotted time. This, doing as many shippers do, starting after the -sun is well up and finishing late, is the cause of discontent among a -crew. Getting into harbor after dark, hungry and tired, all hands are -in a bad humor, and work is neglected or scanted, and the pleasure of -the run spoiled. If you have wind, and the tide is right, get away at -daylight and finish your run before sunset; then you will have light to -find an anchorage, and get all snug before getting supper and turning -in. - - -MAKING A QUICK RUN: - -To make a quick run in a sailing vessel wait until you get the -conditions favorable and start. Then carry all she will, and push her -right through. In this way I have made 120 miles in 24 hours. It is -seldom on our Eastern Seaboard that you can make a run like this during -the summer season, the winds as a general thing losing their strength -after sunset. - - -ACCIDENTS TO MEN: - -The principal accident that endangers the life and limb of yachtsmen -is that inflicted by the main boom. I have known several men to have -lost their lives through being struck by this spar, and have been twice -badly hurt myself. A jibing boom comes over with tremendous force, -and is likely, if it hits, either to fracture the skull or knock the -unfortunate person it hits overboard. In cruising boats the foot of the -sail should be cut up sufficiently aft to raise the boom above the head -of the man standing in the cockpit. In very small boats this cannot -be done. Another source of danger is the mainsheet. Great care should -be exercised in bad weather when handling it. Also, look out for the -blocks on the clew of the jib, as they will give you a nasty rap. - - -LEAD LINE, TO MAKE A: - -It is no use marking a lead line as seamen do, as not one man in a -hundred can ever remember the marks. Again, frequently you have to -put a green hand to work taking casts, and he never could tell one -piece of rag from another, or a hole in a piece of leather from one in -the water. Get a good-sized piece of corded rope, like that used for -window weights, measure of either five or ten fathoms. Ten is best, if -you intend to cruise far. At one fathom clove hitch a short piece of -marline round the line and tie one knot in the end. At two fathoms two -knots and so on. In this way the greenest greenhorn can tell by simply -feeling with his fingers. I use a line like this, and can tell in the -darkest night just what the cast is. - - -LEAKS: - -Leaks are most dangerous in the middle body and least dangerous at the -ends, but the latter are most difficult to find and stop. Sometimes a -small leak may have its outside opening far away from where it appears -inside. This is especially so if it comes through the bow or stern -timbers. It is seldom that a leak can be stopped from the inside, -although it may be temporarily checked. You should always carry a small -calking iron, some cotton, a piece of sheet lead, copper or rubber, for -use in stopping leaks. - - -LEAKS: - -Centerboard boats, if old or not properly built, will leak constantly, -especially if they are hard-pressed. They should be thoroughly looked -to before being put overboard in the spring, and any bad places cleaned -out and re-calked. The king bolt should also be removed and repacked. -Another source of leaks is the rudder port. In many boats this opening -is not carried high enough, and in bad weather the sea slops in through -it. It should be boxed in and carried up to the deck. - - -LEAKS: - -Frequently a boat will leak in her topsides when heeled down, causing -a lot of annoyance, as water running in there is apt to wet the -bedding, etc. These leaks are sometimes the effect of straining, owing -to poor construction. At other times they are due to sun exposure. If a -vessel is allowed to lie constantly with one side exposed to the rays -of the sun her plank will dry and open up. If a boat is not put into -commission early in the spring she should be kept well-covered up to -prevent this. - -[Illustration: HOVE TO.] - - -LEAKS: - -Leaky decks are difficult to make tight, and are the worst possible -nuisance. Wooden decks on small sail-boats cannot be kept tight, unless -they are covered with canvas and kept well-painted. Wherever the canvas -is pierced, be careful to see that the cloth is carried well up and -closely tacked to the object that goes through it. If a bolt or screw -for a fairleader or hook passes through have a wide washer at the base -and screw it down hard. Around the mast at the partners use a coat made -of sheet lead. - - -LEAKS: - -A very common place for leaks to develop is in the rabbet between the -garboard and keel, just under the mast. This is due to the downward -thrust and working of the spar. If a boat persists in leaking there, -lengthen the mast step so as to distribute the strain over a larger -space. Our modern plank-keel boats are liable to develop cracks in -the plank, which will only leak when underway, and are difficult to -discover, as they close up when the boat is at rest. If the leak is bad -it can be readily found by hauling the boat out, filling her bilge with -water and watching where it drips out. - - -LEAKS, STOPPING: - -You can sometimes stop or check a leak by calking from the inside, if -you can get at it; but great care should be exercised in driving the -cotton not to push it in too hard, as you may drive out what calking -is in the seam, and make the leak worse. Holes, if they can be got at -from the outside, can be covered with sheet lead, copper, or a piece of -rubber boot leg. In an emergency the same can be used inside to check -the flow. Barge men frequently use horse manure to stop leaks in the -seams when near the water line; they throw it overboard and let the -water draw it into the crevice. I have checked a leak by running a boat -on a bar of soft sand, thus getting sand in the seam. - - -LEAK, TO FRAP A: - -If you get a hole in the bottom from striking a rock or other -obstruction, and cannot put the boat ashore on a safe place, you can -check it enough to keep her afloat by what is called frapping. Take a -sail or large piece of canvas, and fasten a line to each of the four -corners, then on the inside of the canvas sew a lot of oakum or cotton -so as to make a wad big enough to completely cover the hole and a large -space around it. Pass two of the lines under the boat and bring them up -on the side opposite to the one the leak is on; keep the other two on -the side the leak is. Work the canvas along until it covers the hole, -and then haul all the lines taut, and make fast, the pressure will -force the wadding into the hole and check the inflow of water until you -can lay the boat ashore. - - -SCUPPER-PIPE LEAKING: - -If you get a bad leak in the scupper pipe, and cannot get at it from -the inside, the following method is a quick and sure way of stopping -the inflow of water: Cut a round disk of wood about five times bigger -across than the outside opening of the pipe. Bore a hole in the middle -of this disk just small enough to pass a strong cord through and knot. -Then on inside of the disk fasten a good big wad of cotton batting, or -oakum; this you can do with tacks, thread or glue. I have used thick -paint and cotton wadding pulled out of an old quilt. When the disk is -ready, take another line and weight it with a sinker, drop it down the -scupper pipe until it hangs outside, then fish it up with a boat hook -and bring the end on board. Marry the end of this cord to the cord -attached to the disk. Then haul the cord in through the pipe until the -disk comes up against and closes the scupper hole. By taking a stick -and making a windlass of it you can roll the cord up tightly and secure -the disk so it will not slip. - - -LOOKOUT REPORTS: - -The lookout should examine the side lights, at least every half hour, -and report to the man aft in command their condition. He should also -see that the set of the headsails do not cover the lee light. If so, be -prepared to show it clear if a vessel approaches on that bow. - - -SIDE LIGHTS: - -The side lights should be kept clean and the lamps properly trimmed. -Use signal oil in them. After lighting the lamps below place them in -the lanterns, and let them burn for some minutes with the door open. -This will dry out the moisture and allow it to escape. If you don’t -do this, your glass will cloud with watery vapor. The cause of these -lights refusing to burn is generally want of air, owing to overheating. -The gas inside preventing the fresh oxygen from entering. - - -WORKING FORWARD AT NIGHT: - -If you send a man forward of a rough dark night, put a light line -around him and have it fast aft, or else have another hand hold it. -This should always be done if a headsail is to be taken in, as more men -are lost off the bowsprit than from any other spar. - - -LOOKOUT: - -Always at night, if sailing in waters frequented by other vessels, keep -a good lookout. If two men are in the watch, have one forward whenever -you get among other craft, as it is difficult to keep a close watch -to leeward from the cockpit. The helmsman should keep a lookout to -windward and astern. - - -WATCH TACKLE: - -A watch tackle or Handy Billy is most useful contrivance, and should -have a place on every cruising boat. It is made of a single and double -block, both having hooks, or else the single having a hook and the -double an eye. For a small yacht, blocks carrying a 15-thread rope are -heavy enough. When stretched to its best there should be at least 15 -feet drift between the blocks. This tackle saves oceans of labor, and -makes the heaviest job light. If your anchor sticks, Handy Billy will -bring him to terms. If you get aground, he will give a strong pull on -the warp to get you off. If the bobstay breaks, or a shroud parts, he -will help to keep the mast in while repairs are being made. You want -good, strong blocks, as there is a tremendous strain when all the beef -is on this tackle. Keep Handy Billy in a safe and easily accessible -place, and he will pay you well for his lodgings. - - -TACK, WHICH: - -This is something that many men get sadly mixed on, and consequently -are frequently violating the rules of the road. A vessel is on the -starboard tack when her boom is on the port side and the wind is -blowing on her starboard side. She is on the port tack when the boom -is on the starboard side and the wind is blowing on her port side. -Not only are there men sailing who in an emergency cannot tell the -port side from the starboard, but who do not know their right from -their left hand. One day I was watching a sergeant drilling a squad of -recruits. He said to me, “would you believe it, half these men don’t -know their right from their left hand.” Upon my questioning this, he -suddenly commanded them to raise their right hands, two lifted the -right, one the left, and the other three looked doubtfully at both for -some seconds before raising the right one up. You can always know when -you are on the starboard tack in this way: Standing at the helm and -facing forward, if your right hand is on the side from which the wind -is blowing you are on the starboard tack. When I was a boy, and even -to-day in an emergency, I always tell my right hand by thinking which -hand I would throw a stone with. - - -OFF THE WIND: - -When a vessel is sailing off the wind the tack is determined by the -position of the main boom. For instance, if a schooner or yawl is -running wing-a-wing with the main boom off on the port side she is on -the starboard tack. - - -RIGHT OF WAY: - -A sailing vessel has the right of way over all steam or power vessels, -except when she is the overtaking craft; then she must keep out of the -way of the vessel overtaken. A “steam vessel” in the eyes of the law -is any vessel driven by machinery, no matter of what kind or sort, and -includes all gasolene, kerosene and electric boats. An auxiliary, if -using her engine, is a steam vessel, and must keep clear of sailing -craft, no matter whether she has sail set or not. Sailing craft must -keep clear of rowboats. - - -SWIGGING A TACKLE: - -When taking a swig on a tackle, in order to get a sail up, especially -on the lee side, if the boat is heeling be careful to get a firm brace -of your body or a good leg hold. Sometimes the pin will fly out, -or your turn on the cleat slip, and you are liable to go overboard -backwards. - - -REEF POINTS: - -The best way is to have the different sets of points made of different -kinds of line. Use cotton for the first and manila for the second. Then -when tying in, especially in the dark, you will be sure to get the -right ends knotted together. - - -PEAK HALYARDS: - -The hauling part of the peak halyards is usually brought down and -belayed on the starboard side of the mast. I bring mine down on the -port side, for this simple reason: The terms peak and port begin with -the same letter, and thus it is easy for a green hand to find the right -rope. Frequently a trained hand in a moment of excitement will let go -the wrong halyard, but by remembering the letter P you are less likely -to make the mistake. - - -CREW AND SKIPPER: - -If you are to command, show yourself a leader, not by talk, but by -action. Always be first in everything that requires skill or courage. -Thus you will win your crew’s respect, and if they respect you they -will obey you. Never send a man to do a task you fear to do yourself. -If there is any danger, lead, and your men will follow; but you cannot -expect men to risk their limbs or lives to save your vessel if you -shrink from the position who have the most at jeopardy. Don’t put all -the hard work on the crew; do your share of it; also the dirty jobs. If -you are working watch and watch, be sure to be the first on deck when -your watch is called, and don’t leave it, unless you are sure that the -yacht is in safe hands and that your care and skill is not needed. - - -SKIPPER’S DUTIES: - -It is your duty as skipper to know and see everything that goes on. -If you order the lead to be hove see that it is. See that the lights -are attended to and ready. See that the course is being properly -steered. Before turning in at night inspect your riding gear, likewise -when coming to an anchor. Don’t trust to a report, go and look at it. -See that the pump is used and the vessel kept clear of water. Make a -practice of doing these things until they become a habit. - - -SKIPPER AND MATE: - -If you have a second in command, and he is a man who understands his -work, if you place him in charge of the deck don’t be constantly -interfering with him. If he is not competent to take charge of the -yacht, he has no business to be where he is. If you put confidence in -a man, and he is worthy of it, it will strengthen him and enable him to -do better work all along the line. - - -STANDING ORDER TO MATE: - -My standing order, and one that I always enforce, is this: When in -charge of the boat no reefs are to be shaken out or extra sail made -without my order; but sail can be taken in or reefed at any time -without waiting to call me. - - -CREW, DISCIPLINE: - -In order to insure safety, comfort and good work, you must enforce a -certain amount of discipline upon your crew. You can only do this by -showing that you are amenable to it. You cannot expect men who are -sailing with you for pleasure to obey orders or respect rules if you do -not obey and respect them yourself. This is the prime fault with many -young skippers. If you shape your own conduct according to your rules -you will find that your crew, if they are any good, will do likewise. -But do not make foolish rules or issue unnecessary orders; the less you -restrict and domineer the better you will get along with your hands. - - -INJURY TO SAILS: - -Sails are most often torn or split through carelessness in tieing in -the points when reefing, or not untieing when shaking out. The first -man will tie his points hard, the second slack, consequently bringing -undue strain on one cloth. All the points should be tied with as nearly -equal strain as possible. Another cause is allowing sails to fall and -lie over pointed things, like oarlocks, anchor stocks and belaying -pins. Somebody steps or hauls on the sail and the point goes through. - - -MENDING SAILS: - -If you have a sister, or know somebody else’s sister, get her to show -you how they herringbone or darn a rent, such as they frequently have -in their clothes. This knowledge will enable you to mend a rent in your -sail, and perhaps save the canvas from being torn to pieces. A small -hole in a sail can be temporarily mended with court plaster. If the -sail rends and starts to split up the cloth put in a safety pin at top -and bottom of tear until you can get at it with a needle. Always carry -a spare yard or two of canvas when cruising, as it will frequently come -in handy for mending and other purposes. - - -KNOTTING AND SPLICING: - -Every young yachtsman should learn to make the simple knots and -splices. Nothing looks worse than to see on a boat a lot of rigging -that is knotted or fastened together in a lubberly fashion. There is no -need of learning the fancy knots, unless you want to, but you should -know how to make the following knots, etc.: - - Square or reef knot, - Figure eight, - Overhand, - Fisherman’s bend, - Carrick bend, - Clove hitch, - Half and whole hitch, - Bowline, - Bowline-on-a-bight, - Sheet-bend, - Rolling hitch, - Wall and crown, - Sheep-shank, - Short splice, - Sailmaker’s splice, - Cut splice, - Eye splice, - Whipping, common, - Whipping, Spanish, - Serving, - Mousing, - Plain, stitching, - Herringboning. - - -WASHING DOWN: - -A boat’s deck and cockpit should be thoroughly washed at least once -a day. Nothing looks worse than a dirty deck. Wooden decks should be -washed before the heat of the day gets on them: Canvas decks can be -scrubbed at any time. If on salt water, always take advantage of a rain -and give your decks a good hard scrubbing to get the salt off. If you -have a crew, teach them to wash down the first thing every morning, and -see that they do it - - -KEEPING CLEAN BELOW: - -The first lesson to learn on a yacht, and the first to teach your crew, -is that there is a place for everything, and that everything must be -kept in its place. If they take anything out to use make them put it -back at once in its place just as soon as they are done with it. Make -every man keep his berth tidy, his clothes put away, and his bedding -properly aired and folded. Teach them not to throw cigarette butts, -tobacco and match sticks on the floor, and to spit overboard and not on -the deck or in the cockpit. Don’t leave dirty dishes about. Keep your -cabin just as tidy as you do your deck. - - -TOOL BOX: - -Every yacht should carry a simple kit of tools with them. You can -always make temporary repairs, and sometimes save yourself expense, -worry and toil. Have a box for them where they can be easily got at. -You don’t want fine tools, as they will soon be ruined by the dampness. -The following is a list of what is necessary for a cruising boat: - - Hatchet, - Monkey wrench, - Small saw, - Cold chisel, - Brace and bits, - Screw driver, - Marline spike, - Small vice, - Wire nippers, - Grommet set, - Sail needle, - Sail hook, - Twine, - Wax, - Fid, - Piece of sheet copper, - Piece of sheet lead, - Piece of sheet rubber, - Copper tacks, - Screws, - Nails, - Some galv. iron rod, - Wire, - Screw eyes. - - -BOS’N STORES: - -Don’t have more than two or three sizes of rope in your rig, if you can -help it, and carry a spare coil of a few fathoms of each. Also, have -spare fittings, so if anything carries away you can replace it. Here is -a short list: - - Blocks, - Shackles, - Pins for same, - Cleats, - Rope, - Marline, - Hambroline, - Canvas, - Lacing, - Paint, - Varnish. - - -PUMP: - -Every yacht, no matter of what size, should have a good pump fitted to -draw from the lowest part of the bilge. If a full-decked cabin boat, -have the pump put in through the deck, and not through the cockpit -floor. Builders like to put it in the latter place, as the work is -easier. In consequence of its being there the dirty water is pumped -into the pit and makes it wet and nasty. In an open centerboard boat -put the pump at the after end of the trunk and pump into it. Keep the -pump well clean. If you do not use the pump daily, to keep the leather -on the sucker in good condition wrap it about with an oiled rag. A -small portable pump is very useful to completely dry out the bilges. - - -PUMPING: - -If the boat has a leak, make it a practice to try the pump every -morning before washing down. Keep the water out of her, so that when -she heels down it won’t run up into the lockers and wet things. A good -knockdown will distribute a few buckets of bilge water around a cabin -in a way to make things damp for weeks to come. - - -BALLAST: - -If you use inside ballast of any kind do not lump it in heaps along the -keel; spread it out as much as possible over the bottom. It should be -spaced in the middle half of the boat, leaving the ends empty. No rule -can be laid down for placing weight in a boat; you must experiment and -find out how much and where to put it. Remember, that too much ballast -is as bad as too little. - - -BALLAST, KINDS OF: - -Inside ballast is either lead, iron or stone. There is no question but -what stone is the best ballast, so far as the effect is concerned, and -lead the worst. Lead has the advantage of being always worth its money, -second-hand lead bringing nearly the same price as new. Old iron is of -little or no value. Lead stows snugly and is clean. Iron is very dirty, -and the rust from it is a nuisance. The disadvantage of stone is that -you cannot secure it. Inside ballast should be secured so as not to -shift in case the vessel gets on her side. Heavy ballast should rest on -the frame and not on the plank. - - -BILGES: - -The cause of many yachts smelling below is dirty bilges. They are never -properly cleaned from one season to the other. Before putting the yacht -in commission the bilges should be thoroughly searched, cleaned and -washed out, all the limbers poked open so as to allow the water to flow -to the pump well. If the boat does not leak enough to keep her bilges -sweet, water should be poured in at least once a week and pumped out -again. Don’t sweep dirt or other rubbish into the bilge; it is liable -to get into the pump and choke it. - - -GASOLENE PIPES: - -To make the joints of pipes carrying gasolene or kerosene tight use -common yellow soap. These pipes if used to carry either of these fluids -to a stove should be frequently examined, so as to prevent leakage. If -gasolene leaks into the bilge, flood it with water and pump out before -making any light below decks. - - -LEAD LINE: - -Keep your lead line where it can be instantly laid hands upon. For a -small boat a five-fathom line is long enough, with an extra five that -can be bent on in case of need. A three-pound lead is plenty heavy -enough. - - -KNIFE: - -Always keep about your person a sharp knife, so that you can get hold -of it without delay. Many a man has lost his life for want of a knife. -It is best when cruising to carry a sheath knife, as they are handiest. - - -OARS: - -Always carry a large oar on deck and a pair of spare ones for the -dingey stowed below. It is also well to have at least two pair of spare -oarlocks on board. - - -LASHINGS AND STOPS: - -Take some 6, 9 and 12-thread manila rope and cut it into 3, 5 and -8-foot lengths. Put an eye-splice in one end of each length and whip -the other end. These short pieces are always of the greatest use, -and will save much time and trouble. They can be employed for many -purposes, and are especially handy for gasketing sails. - - -STANDING-BY: - -It is the duty, and should be the pleasure, of every yachtsman to -stand-by another yacht when in distress, or in need of any sort -of help. It is always best if you see a boat in a predicament to -stand-down to her and offer your services, even if they are not needed; -it will generally be appreciated as an act of courtesy and good will. -And all yachtsmen should receive such offers in the spirit in which -they are advanced, and not as some do, if they do not need assistance, -give a jeering or discourteous reply. I have been fairly insulted -several times by skippers because I have offered my aid to get them -out of a predicament, my advances being considered to be a reflection -on their skill and ability. Power-boat skippers can do much to make -yachting pleasant, by offering a tow to becalmed sail-craft men. The -little attentions do much to establish a feeling of perfect comradeship -that is so essential to the making of a sport. - -[Illustration] - - - - -INDEX - - - PAGE - - Accidents to men, 97 - - Anchor light, 81 - to get a line on a fluke, 72 - to get in a seaway, 71 - to lay out a heavy, 73 - to lay one out, 73 - to raise a heavy, 74 - to sweep an, 72 - - Anchors, care of, 71 - - Anchored in a current, 51 - in an exposed harbor, 80 - vessels, 95 - - Attraction, effect on vessels, 94 - - - Barometers, 86 - - Ballast, kinds of, 118 - where to place, 118 - - Balloon-jib sheet, to shift a, 64 - - Bilges, 119 - - Binnacle lights, 83 - - Blocks, kind to buy, 23 - - Boat’s name, 19 - - Bobstay, burst, 66 - - Bos’n stores, 116 - - Booms, cause of springing, 22 - - Burst bobstay, 66 - mainsheet, 65 - - Buying a boat, 13 - a boat afloat, 15 - a cruiser, 14 - from fad, 16 - from reason, 17 - out of repair, 17 - a racer, 14 - through a broker, 18 - - - Caught on a lee shore, 56 - - Chain, care of, 80 - mooring, 78 - - Clubbing, 48 - - Coasters, 95 - - Coming-to at a dock, 48 - - Coils of gear, 39 - - Covers, sail, 38 - - Crew, discipline, 111 - and skipper, 109 - stations for, 28 - stations for getting underway, 28 - stations for reefing, 30 - stations for setting a spinnaker, 32 - - Cruising, 96 - - Current, anchored in a, 57 - sailing against, 49 - sailing in a, 49 - sailing in a calm, 51 - - - Dock, coming-to at a, 48 - or pier lying at a, 48 - - Downhaul, how to rig a peak, 40 - - Dropping a mooring, 79 - - - Gasolene pipes, 119 - - Gears, coils of, 39 - - Gear, running, 39 - - - Halyards, peak, 109 - - Hawsers, care of, 80 - - Heaving-to, 52 - - High water, 92 - in tide tables, 93 - - Hoisting sails, 36 - - Hoops, working of, 23 - - - Injury to sails, 112 - - Inventory, 18 - - - Jibing a mainsail, 46 - a yawl, 47 - - Jib sheets, how to reeve, 40 - - Jibs, shifting in heavy weather, 38 - storm, 38 - - - Keeping clean below, 114 - - Knife, 120 - - Knotting and splicing, 113 - - - Lashing and stops, 121 - - Lead-line, to make a, 98 - where to keep, 120 - - Leak in scupper-pipe, 103 - to frap a, 103 - - Leaks in centerboard boats, 99 - in deck, 101 - in rabbet, 101 - stopping, 102 - in topsides, 99 - where most dangerous, 98 - - Lee shores, sailing on, 53 - shore, caught on a, 53 - caught on a, 56 - - Light sails, handling, 30 - sheeting, 60 - - Light, anchor, 81 - a flare, 81 - stern, 83 - - Lights, binnacle, 83 - side, 83 - side, 104 - taking care of, 81 - - Log, use of, 85 - - Lookout, 105 - reports, 104 - - Lying at a dock or pier, 48 - - Lying-to, 52 - - - Making a mooring, 75 - to leeward, 77 - a quick run, 97 - - Mainsail hoisting on track, 41 - to jibe, 46 - - Mainsheet, burst, 65 - to knot a, 46 - - Mark, rounding a, 60 - a leeward, 61 - a windward, 63 - with an overlap, 61 - - Mast carried away, 66 - - Masts, removing, 21 - to remove, 21 - - Medicine chest, 85 - - Mending sails, 112 - - Miss-staying in a seaway, 54 - how to get out of irons, 54 - - Mizzen on a yawl, 57 - how to handle, 57 - - Mooring, care of, 79 - chain, 78 - dropping a, 79 - how to make a, 75 - hook, how to shape, 77 - making one to leeward, 77 - warp, 78 - - Moorings, what weight, 74 - - - Nautical instruments, charts, etc., 19 - - - Oars, 120 - - Off the wind, 107 - - - Peak downhaul, 40 - halyards, 109 - - Pendants for reefing, 42 - - Pump, 117 - - Pumping, 118 - - - Reef points, 108 - shaking out a, 44 - - Reefing before starting, 45 - not to haul out too hard, 44 - in heavy seaway, 44 - at night, 41 - pendants for, 42 - to practice a crew at, 41 - tacks for, 42 - to belay sheet when, 42 - - Rigging, running, 40 - on racing craft, 22 - - Right of way, 108 - - Run, making a quick, 96 - - Running off, to carry a small jib, 45 - gear, 39 - in a seaway, 45 - rigging, 40 - - Rounding a mark, 60 - a windward mark, 63 - a mark to leeward, 60 - a mark, with overlap, 61 - - - Sail covers, 38 - - Sails, hoisting, 36 - how to treat, 34 - injury to, 112 - measuring for, 34 - mending, 112 - stowing, 36 - to be aired, 34 - to take care of, 36 - - Sailing against current, 49 - in a current, 49 - in a seaway, 56 - what sail to carry, 57 - - Scupper-pipe leaking, 103 - - Sheets, jib, 40 - - Sheeting, light sails, 60 - - Shore, caught on a lee, 53 - weather, 53 - - Shores, lee, 53 - - Shifting jibs in heavy weather, 38 - - Shroud parting, 64 - - Side lights, 104 - lights, 83 - - Skipper and mate, 110 - - Skipper’s duties, 110 - - Spinnaker pole, how to rig for racing, 24 - - Spinnakers, to prepare for hoisting, 24 - - Spinnaker to set when rigged with a lift, 26 - to shift from side to side, 25 - - Spinnakers, when to use, 25 - - Squall, struck by a, 90 - - Squalls, 88 - how to meet one, 89 - time of, 89 - - Standing-by, 121 - - Standing order to mate, 111 - - Speed, to judge, 68 - reasons for want of, 67 - - Steering a yawl, 47 - - Stern light, 83 - - Storm jibs, 38 - - Stowing sails, 36 - - Swigging a tackle, 108 - - - Tacks for reefing, how to fit, 42 - - Tack, which, 106 - - Tanks, water, 84 - - Tide under the lee, 51 - - Tides, a knowledge of, 93 - effecting the wind, 90 - time of, 92 - where strongest, 92 - - To get an anchor in a seaway, 71 - - To lay out an anchor, 73 - - To lay out a heavy anchor, 73 - - To sweep an anchor, 72 - - Tool box, 115 - - Towing a heavy boat, 68 - alongside, 70 - making the warp fast, 70 - to tack when, 70 - - Trimming a vessel, 63 - - To raise a heavy anchor, 74 - - - Vessels underway, 96 - - - Want of speed, 67 - - Warp, mooring, 78 - - Washing down, 114 - - Watch tackle, 106 - - Water, cause of sickness, 84 - tanks, 84 - - Wearing a yawl, 46 - - Weather shore, sailing on, 53 - the study of, 87 - - Winds, 88 - - Winds, study of, 87 - - Working craft and steamers, 94 - forward at night, 105 - to windward, 58 - to windward cruising, 59 - to windward, to get favoring breeze, 59 - - - Yawl, jibing a, 47 - mizzen on a, 57 - steering a, 47 - wearing a, 46 - - - - -THE RUDDER - - -The policy of THE RUDDER is to give to yachtsmen a thoroughly -practical periodical, dealing with the sport of yachting in all its -phases, and especially to furnish them with the designs and plans of -vessels adapted to their wants in all localities. - 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You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - -Title: Hints to Young Yacht Skippers - -Author: Thomas Fleming Day - -Illustrator: Warren Sheppard - -Release Date: June 13, 2016 [EBook #52324] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HINTS TO YOUNG YACHT SKIPPERS *** - - - - -Produced by Chris Curnow, Wayne Hammond and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive) - - - - - - -</pre> - - -<div id="coverpage"> -<img src="images/cover.jpg" alt="" /> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_2">2</span></p> - -<div id="uniform_edition"> -<p class="ph2" id="UNIFORM_EDITION">UNIFORM EDITION<br /> - -<span class="large">RUDDER <img src="images/deco.jpg" alt="" /> ON <img src="images/deco.jpg" alt="" /> SERIES</span><br /> - -<span class="small"><i>Bound in blue buckram and gold, 32mo, illustrated</i></span></p> - -<blockquote> - -<p class="hang">ON YACHTS AND YACHT HANDLING. By -Thomas Fleming Day. Price $1.</p> - -<p class="hang">ON MARINE MOTORS AND MOTOR LAUNCHES. -By E. W. Roberts, M. E. Price $1.</p> - -<p class="hang">ON YACHT ETIQUETTE. Second Edition Revised. -By Captain Patterson. Price $1.</p> - -<p class="hang">SOUTHWARD BY THE INSIDE ROUTE. Reprint -from <span class="smcap">The Rudder</span>.</p> - -<p class="hang">HINTS TO YOUNG YACHT SKIPPERS. By -Thomas Fleming Day. Price $1.</p></blockquote> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_3">3</span></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_4">4</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_004.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">AT ANCHOR. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_5">5</span></p> -</div> - -<h1>Hints<br /> - -<span class="medium">TO</span><br /> - -Young Yacht<br /> - -Skippers<br /> - -<span class="medium">BY</span><br /> - -<span class="x-large">THOMAS FLEMING DAY</span><br /> - -<span class="medium smcap">Editor “The Rudder,” Author of “On Yachts and Yacht Handling,” -“Songs of Sea and Sail,” Etc.</span><br /> - -<span class="medium"><i>Illustrations by Warren Sheppard</i></span><br /> - -<img src="images/i_005.jpg" alt="Colophon." /><br /> - -<span class="medium">NEW YORK AND LONDON<br /> -<span class="smcap">The Rudder Publishing Company</span><br /> - -1904</span></h1> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_6">6</span></p> - -<p class="copy"> -<span class="smcap">Copyright</span> 1904<br /> -BY<br /> -<span class="smcap">Thomas Fleming Day</span><br /> -ALL RIGHTS RESERVED<br /> -<br /> -THOMSON & COMPANY<br /> -PRINTERS<br /> -9 MURRAY ST., NEW YORK<br /> -U. S. A.<br /> -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_7">7</span></p> - -<p class="caption"> -TO<br /> -THE OFFICERS AND MEMBERS<br /> -OF THE<br /> -SPRINGFIELD YACHT CLUB<br /> -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_8">8</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_008.jpg" alt="Sailing boat." /> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_9">9</span></p> - -<h2 id="INTRODUCTION">INTRODUCTION.</h2> - -<p class="drop"><span class="uppercase">This</span> book is the response to a constant appeal for -information. During the last nine years I have received -thousands of letters, asking for hints on all -manner of subjects relating to the care, handling, buying -and equipping of small yachts. The majority of these -letters came from boys and young men living throughout -the world, who were just entering the sport, and who -were anxious to become skillful sailors and competent -skippers. I can thoroughly understand their position, and -sympathize with their desire for fuller and more practical -knowledge than that contained in the majority of works -upon yachting.</p> - -<p>What knowledge I possess of this art, or profession, I -have gained by years of hard work and close observation, -and having begun my studies when very young can testify -to the dearth of literature of value to the green hand, -who is looking for practical hints that will help him to -become a skillful yacht sailor. Had I possessed a book -like this, it would have saved me time, money and lots of -hard work and anxiety. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_10">10</span></p> - -<p>But, in using this book, it must be remembered that a -hint is not a law or a command, it is simply a concise statement -for you to take, think over, and make use of, if it appears -to be logical and practical. There may be better and -easier ways of doing many of these things I speak of—that -is for you to find out. I am an authority only as far as -my knowledge goes, and no further. The basis of my authority -is my years of observation and experience; your -right to confute my findings can only be based on similar -premises. Unless you have tried and proved that my instructions -are wrong, they are still good medicine.</p> - -<p>If a man, especially a young one, decide to go into -yachting, he should also decide to learn the business of -handling these craft from the keel up. It is not sufficient, -as many of you think, that all that is necessary is to -learn how to sail a boat about. You should know not only -how to sail her, but you should know why she sails, and -all about the gear and canvas used to propel her. You -should learn to rig and unrig, to care for and to understand -every part of her structure, both above and below -decks. It is certainly a sorry spectacle to see a man sailing -a yacht who cannot tie a proper knot, splice a rope, -or bend a sail, and who does not know the terms used to -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_11">11</span> -designate parts of the structure which he essays to manage. -If he is ashamed to learn, or if he is too lazy to -gather such knowledge, he is out a place in a sport which -is the life and joy of energetic, skillful and brave men.</p> - -<p>I hope all of my boys the world over who are coming -into yachting, and to assist whom I have written these -words, will never be ashamed to learn the sailor’s trade, -or be too lazy to acquire all possible knowledge relating -to the art of handling vessels. You will never regret having -given your time to the study. It will bring to you -that which is more valuable than the treasures of the -earth; something that you can never be deprived of, no -matter how unlucky or how unfortunate you may be—the -respect paid to the skillful by the unskillful; the deference -shown to the educated by the ignorant.</p> - -<p>It is as well to say here that these hints are not intended -for men owning and sailing large yachts. Such -vessels are too costly to be trusted in the hands of any -men except those who are thoroughly competent; and if -an owner has not sufficient skill to handle a large yacht -it is his business to hire somebody who has. These hints -are intended for the small-boat owner and skipper. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_12">12</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_012.jpg" alt="Rowboat in view of lighthouse." /> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_13">13</span></p> - -<p class="ph1" id="HINTS_TO_YOUNG_YACHT_SKIPPERS">HINTS TO YOUNG YACHT SKIPPERS</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Buying a Boat:</span></h3> - -<p>If you are going to buy a boat, either the first or -last one, make up your mind thoroughly as to what kind -of a craft you want, and what you want her for. If you -want to race, it is one thing; if you want to cruise, another. -Combination cruising and racing boats are impossibilities, -and are neither one thing or other. If you are -going to build, get a good design from some man who -knows his business, and have a boat built from it in the -best manner possible. A poorly or cheaply-built boat is -a losing proposition. If you are going to buy a second-hand -craft, and don’t know much about boats, get a man -who does to look over any that you think of purchasing. -An honest builder is the best man for this. Most men buy -a racer for her record, and a cruiser for her cabin. The -record of a racing craft is not worth a pinch of salt, unless -the boat is in such condition as will enable her to uphold -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_14">14</span> -it, and a cabin of a cruiser is of little value unless it -is surrounded by a good, seaworthy and handy outside.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Buying a Racer:</span></h3> - -<p>Before buying a racer, find out if she is suitable for entering -in any of the classes racing in the waters you frequent. -Find out what boats are likely to sail against her, -what her measurement is under the rule in vogue, and -how and by whom she was handled when winning or losing. -These are very necessary points, if you hope to helm -a winner. Many a fast boat is condemned and sold after -the first season, because the man who owned it did not -know how to handle her to win. Such a boat can be -bought and, if properly managed, be made a winner. -Others are sold because they have no earthly chance of -getting a prize, no matter how well-sailed. These latter -are a very bad investment.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Buying a Cruiser:</span></h3> - -<p>If you want a cruising boat, her record is of no consequence, -unless it is irretrievably bad. If she has a -habit of capsizing, or won’t go to windward, you don’t -want her. If she consistently leaks, you don’t want her. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_15">15</span> -If she draws a lot of water for her length, and can’t get -into your harbor except at high tide, you don’t want her. -If she is in bad repair, or is very old, you don’t want her. -If you haven’t sufficient personal knowledge to tell by -looking at her how she will handle, ask some man who -has sailed her, or who has seen her sail; better ask several, -and take a general average of their testimony. -Then go and have her thoroughly looked over. If she -is hauled out, sound her bottom. Get the owner to let -a builder bore her. If the chips come out clean, white -and papery, she is sound in plank. Examine the rabbet -at stem and stern and all along the keel; pierce that stick, -both inside and out. Sound the mast. Go below and look -at the heels and heads of the frames. Don’t forget the -deck, cockpit floor and staving. An experienced man can -tell from the appearance of the unpainted wood whether -it is sound or not. Then examine her spars, gear, blocks -and sails; last of all, her cabin fittings, etc.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Buying a Boat Afloat:</span></h3> - -<p>This is somewhat of a lottery, but you can generally -judge of the condition of a boat’s bottom by the condition -of her topsides, and by inspecting the inside of the -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_16">16</span> -hull. If there is any water in the bilge take some up in -a glass. If it is clean and fresh-smelling, you can be sure -she has a regular leak. Get a quiet look at the sucker of -the pump-rod. If it looks well-brightened up, it shows -plenty of usage. If there is no leak, notice the heels of -the frames near the mast, also the fastenings of the ends -of the deck beams in that part of her. If she strains, it -will show there, if anywhere. If there are doors in the -bulkheads or lockers, see if they have been planed off, so -as to close. If she is canvased on deck or top of cabin-house, -the cloth will show if she has strained badly. All -boats strain to certain extent, and without seemingly permanent -harm.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Buying From Fads:</span></h3> - -<p>I once knew a lady who would not buy a house, because -she did not like the way in which the halls between -the rooms were painted. Some yachtsmen are just as -bad. Last year I met a young fellow who wanted a -knockabout with a white enameled cabin. He refused to -take several, because they lacked this inside coating. -Others will be caught by a lot of brass or gaudy cushions -and curtains. Nicely varnished spars, parceled backstays -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_17">17</span> -and immaculate sail covers, are other and successful traps. -Others will buy a boat because a friend has one like it.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Buying From Reason:</span></h3> - -<p>The first and most necessary thing is that the vessel’s -bottom be sound; the second, that the decks be tight; the -third, that the spars are in good condition. If she is right -in these three points, you can find out the rest by sailing -her, and in that way only. Many a good boat is condemned -for some trivial cause. She may have a leak -which can be easily stopped; her sails may be poor, that -can be remedied; or her gear worn out. If so, give the -seller a chance to make good before breaking off negotiations. -Tell him what you see or think is wrong, and let -him have a chance to explain or make good. Don’t go -away, as many do, and blackguard a boat because it is not -just in the order or condition you expected to find it.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Buying out of repair:</span></h3> - -<p>Sometimes a boat out of repair can be bought cheap, -and is a good bargain. But, before buying, consult a -builder, and find out if the craft can be repaired, and if it -is worth repairing. I have found that you can generally -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_18">18</span> -trust a builder’s word on this question, as they dislike to -work over a worthless craft. If the builder tells you she -is no good, don’t touch her, no matter how cheap she is -offered.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Buying through a broker:</span></h3> - -<p>I strongly advise young yachtsmen to buy their boats -through a broker, if it is a second-hand craft. These men -are up to all the tricks of the trade, and are thus able to -safeguard a client’s interests. If the boat is registered, -they will attend to the custom-house part of the transaction, -and get the thing put through properly, besides saving -you endless bother. If she is not registered, they will -get you a proper bill of sale, and see that the boat has no -liens or mortgages lying against her. I have known several -cases where men have bought and paid for boats only -to find that the vessel was mortgaged, or else somebody -unknown was a part owner.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Inventory:</span></h3> - -<p>Be sure and get a written inventory before buying, and -have it checked off before making the final payment. It -is, I regret to say, a too common practice among some sellers -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_19">19</span> -to skin-out a boat before delivering her. Or, if this -is not done, to substitute cheaper articles for the ones on -board. It is also frequent for purchasers to call for things -that are not on board, and which they suppose or think -ought to be, and this leads to a disagreement. A written -inventory will settle the question; verbal statements are -worthless.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Nautical instruments, charts, etc.:</span></h3> - -<p>Nautical instruments, charts, books, private flags, -clothes, etc., are personal belongings, and are not part of -a boat’s fittings or furniture, unless so specified in the -inventory. A compass is, if it belongs in a vessel’s binnacle. -A dingey or other boat if used by the yacht as -a tender goes with her, unless there is an agreement to -the contrary. Spare spars, sails, ballast and anchors, -even if stowed on shore and not used, belong to the boat, -and are included in the sale, unless otherwise specified.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Boat’s name:</span></h3> - -<p>If a boat is registered, you cannot lawfully change her -name, without the permission of the Customs. All registered -vessels must have their name and port painted on -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_20">20</span> -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_21">21</span> -them. The name of a boat is not necessarily sold with -the craft, but the former owner cannot prevent you from -using the old name if you wish to, unless you have made -an agreement before buying not to do so; nor can he -prevent you from changing the name.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_020.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">MAKING SAIL.</p> -</div> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Masts:</span></h3> - -<p>If for any reason you remove your mast, be careful -to note its position, so that it can be put back again as -it was before. If wedged, mark the wedges before taking -them out, so you can put them back again in their -proper places. The rake of a mast has frequently much -to do with a boat’s good sailing.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Masts:</span></h3> - -<p>To remove a mast, if you have no shears convenient, -place another boat with a mast as tall, or taller than yours, -close alongside, and lash her fast. Then place a sling -round the mast to be removed in such a position as you -think the stick will balance. To this hook in the throat -halyards of the assisting boat. Remove the wedges, and -if the fit in the partners is tight well-grease the houseings. -Then send a man in forward with a sharp-edged bar and -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_22">22</span> -let him pry the heel out of the step as you hoist on the -halyard. Use your own halyards as guys to steady the -spar. Keep the spar steady; if allowed to fall over it -will very likely split the partners. You can step a mast -by reversing this method.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Booms:</span></h3> - -<p>Booms are frequently sprung and spoiled by hauling -down hard on the sheet and pulling up the lift. The -boat being left at anchor, it rains; the ropes shrink, and -the end of the spar is pulled up and the spar sprung out -of shape. Do not set up taut on your lift if it looks -like wet weather.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Rigging on racing craft:</span></h3> - -<p>The less running rigging you have on a racing craft -the better, as a complication of tackle, lifts, sheets, etc., -make it more difficult to handle sails quickly. Use as -simple tackles as possible, and have as light gear as will -do the work. The running rigging of a racing yacht -should be constantly looked to, and at the first sign of -weakness be replaced by new. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_23">23</span></p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Hoops:</span></h3> - -<p>Hoops, to work easy, should be quite some bigger than -the mast. Grease the foreside of the spar frequently, -and they won’t stick when hoisting. If you don’t like -grease, you can keep them from sticking by taking a -piece of small line and with it linking them together by -clove-hitching each one. In this way they will be kept -horizontal when being hoisted. Always put on several -more hoops than there are grommets for, so that if one -breaks you can replace without removing your rigging.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Blocks:</span></h3> - -<p>Don’t buy or use cheap blocks; they are the worst investment -you can make, as they will be an endless source -of trouble. Don’t use blocks with sharp edges to the -shell, as they will soon fray and strand your gear. It is -a common practice of riggers to put on a block the swallow -of which will just carry a certain sized rope; consequently, -when the cordage gets wet and swells, it sticks, -and the sail won’t come down. This generally happens -in bad weather, when you want things to run smoothly. -Always have the swallow bigger than the rope, by at -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_24">24</span> -least one size. For instance, if using a 12-thread rope, -have the block made to carry a 15-thread.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Spinnaker pole, how to rig it for racing:</span></h3> - -<p>To rig a spinnaker pole for racing, when the stick is -not too heavy to be lifted and handled by two men, have -at the head or outboard end a band, or grommet, with -three eyes, one on top and one on each side. Put snaphooks -on your guys, so that all gear can be quickly removed -from the pole. Have snap-hooks on both ends of -your halyard. Make your halyard fast on each side in -the rigging.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Spinnakers:</span></h3> - -<p>If you have a forehatch, after stopping the spinnaker -coil it snake-fashion right under the opening. Screw a -hook to the underside of the deck, where it can be readily -reached, and hook the head of the sail to it then -when wanted the tack man can reach it without getting -up or jumping below. It is frequently necessary in order -to make a quiet move to get this sail ready without your -rival knowing what you are up to. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_25">25</span></p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Spinnakers:</span></h3> - -<p>These sails are of little or no use if the boom cannot -be carried square to the length; the minute they have to -be guyed forward they lose their power, and it is better -to take them in and use the balloon headsail. Do not haul -the tack of the sail hard down; let it light up and leave -an opening between the luff and the mast. Spinnakers -cut with a deep roach, so as to hang below the pole, are -no good. Remember, that the spinnaker is a depressing, -not a lifting, sail, as many suppose, and has a tendency -to force a vessel’s head down, unless the sheet is lighted -up.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Spinnaker, to shift one from side to side:</span></h3> - -<p>If a light pole, this can be easily and quickly done. -Let go the after guy and swing the pole forward; unship -the heel and run the pole aft along the deck on the -side you want to set it, being sure to keep it clear until -the head is abaft all sheets, etc. Have the other end of -the halyard ready, let go the sail, cast off one end and -snap in the other end, and hoist away. While those forward -are doing this the after man can carry the guy over -and pass it forward outside the rigging. Then shove the -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_26">26</span> -pole out right ahead, ship the heel, and haul aft the guy. -By being able to shift a spinnaker quickly you can frequently -manage to get away from a rival who is following -close in your wake and blanketing you. It is a -maneuvre that should be constantly practiced by a racing -crew.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Spinnaker, to set a, when rigged with a lift:</span></h3> - -<p>If your pole is carried aloft, lower it down by the lift, -and square with the fore and after guys. Hook the clew -to sheet or outhaul, and the head to the halyard, hoisting -and hauling out at the same time. When in position -break out. To take in, haul the foot in first and muzzle -the sail before letting go the halyard.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Spinnaker pole:</span></h3> - -<p>As soon as you are through with the spinnaker pole, -unsnap the guys and coil them up. In this way you -keep them in readiness for instant use on either side, -and free the pole of all incumbrance. A spinnaker pole -carried on end with all its gear is a nuisance on a small -boat, besides adding to the weight and windage aloft. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_27">27</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_027.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">REACHING. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_28">28</span></p> -</div> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Crew, stations for:</span></h3> - -<p>In handling sails the crew should be given certain -stations, and taught to keep them. Each man should -be allotted a certain task, and be instructed to attend to -that, and not to interfere with the others. If you have -a crew of four, including yourself, your place is at the -helm; the man in your watch stays with you in the cockpit, -or aft, unless called forward; the mate and his watch -work forward. The lightest man is the tackman. His -business is to take the tack of the sails. He always works -furthest forward, going out on the bowsprit to snap on -jibs, etc. The mate works behind him attending to the -halyards and gear about the mast.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Crew stations for getting underway:</span></h3> - -<p>When making sail, the mate and the tackman go to the -main halyards, one taking the throat and the other the -peak. The skipper and his watch look out for the lashings, -crotch, sheet, and see the gaff clear of the lifts. If -the boat is a yawl, they cast loose and hoist the mizzen, -the mate and tackman attending in the same way to the -headsails. The after guard looks after the jib sheets and -backstays, the forward gang get the anchor and cat it, -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_29">29</span> -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_30">30</span> -standing by forward until she is properly cast and underway; -then they clear up decks.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_029.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">CREW STATIONS—ON THE WIND RACING.</p> -</div> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Light sails, handling:</span></h3> - -<p>The handling of light sails is the best measure of the -merits of a crew. The bungling of light canvas shows -that the crew are not properly drilled, and that the skipper -is a muff, or else is slack in attention to his duties. Nothing -looks prettier than to see running sails handled -quickly. To do this it is necessary to thoroughly drill -your crew at stations, and to practice them in setting, -shifting and taking in the light sails.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Crew stations for reefing:</span></h3> - -<p>The mate and tackman go to the halyards; the man aft -stands by the peak downhaul, if necessary, after getting -the sheet in. When the sail is down the skipper and his -watch take the pendant, and after the tackman has tied -in haul the foot of the sail out, the mate standing amidships -and helping by lighting the cloth along. When -properly hauled out the skipper or his man pass the clew -lashing. Then all hands tie in, the mate and tackman -working from the middle of the boom forward, the -others aft. Then the mate and his watch hoist the sail, -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_31">31</span> -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_32">32</span> -those aft keeping it clear of the lifts, and working the -sheet.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_031.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">CREW STATIONS—TO SET SPINNAKER.</p> -</div> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Crew stations for setting a spinnaker:</span></h3> - -<p>Get the boom along on the side you want to use it, -with the heel aft and the head just forward of the rigging. -See that it is clear of the jib sheets. Take your after guy -outside the rigging and snap it into the grommet, or eye, -on the spar. Snap in the fore guy, if you use one, and -place the coil in the bow. When ready, let the tackman -snap the halyard to the head, being sure there are no -turns in the sail; then the mate, who has the halyard, -can hoist away. When the sail is up belay the halyard -and snap in the clew of the sail in the grommet or eye -on top of the boom, at the word “ready!” the tackman and -mate seize the pole and shove it out right ahead, until the -latter can ship the heel. At the order from the mate, “haul -aft!” the man in the cockpit hauls on the after guy until -the boom is square. The tackman stands by the fore -guy and the mate seizes the tack and breaks the sail out. -To take in reverse these proceedings.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Sails:</span></h3> - -<p>Sails, if not used, should be frequently cast adrift and -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_33">33</span> -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_34">34</span> -aired. Light sails stowed below, either in bundles or -bags, should be attended to in this manner. It is best -to have your headsails fitted with snaphooks, so they -can be taken off and stowed below.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_033.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">CREW STATIONS—TACKING OR WEARING.</p> -</div> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Sails:</span></h3> - -<p>Sails are not made of iron; neither are they made of -rubber. Canvas, especially when new, should be treated -with gentleness. It is very easy to spoil a sail. More -bad sails are made by yachtsmen than by sailmakers. -When bending a new sail haul it out along the spar -hand-taut and lash it. Then let the wind stretch it out, -you taking up the slack day by day. As it comes, you -can put more strain on it until it reaches its proper place. -In damp weather, ease it in at the head and foot.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Sails:</span></h3> - -<p>When measuring your boat for a suit of sails, do not -try to put on every inch the spars will carry. Leave -plenty of drift between the hoist and the block and a good -length at the end of each spar. This will give you a -chance to properly stretch your canvas. The foot of all -sails should be kept well up off the deck, so as to allow -plenty of room for the wind to escape from under them. -Also, keep the leach of the headsail away from the mast. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_35">35</span> -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_36">36</span> -Sails should never be made to lap if it is possible to sheet -them without doing so.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_035.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">CREW STATIONS—REEFING.</p> -</div> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Sails:</span></h3> - -<p>Take the same care of your sails as you do of your -best suit of clothes. When you get a new suit, you don’t -start in by stretching the back of the coat, and by pulling -like mad on the legs of the trousers. Canvas is woven -just as cloth is. When you put your clothes away you -don’t roll them up in a tight ball and leave them in a -damp place for days at a time. Remember this.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Hoisting sails:</span></h3> - -<p>The luff of a mainsail should be pulled on until it is -taut, but it should never be sweated until the bolt-rope is -nigh to parting. The peak should be hoisted until the -proper draft appears in the luff. In light airs a better -draft will be had by slacking both peak and luff and by -hauling up the weather lift, so as to take the weight -of the boom off the canvas. The lighter the wind the -more baggy your sail wants to be.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Stowing sails:</span></h3> - -<p>If you are not going to stay on board, do not stow -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_37">37</span> -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_38">38</span> -your sails in tight rolls; make up loosely and tie well; -but be sure that the air can get at the canvas. It is the -weather, not work, that wears out sails.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_037.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">CREW STATIONS—SETTING OR SHIFTING HEAD SAILS.</p> -</div> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Sail covers:</span></h3> - -<p>Sail covers are the sailmaker’s best friend. They destroy -more sails than any other one thing. If a boat has -a crew always on board, or someone constantly near to -look after the canvas, they are very useful contrivances, -but should never be left over sails for days at a time; -the moisture collects under them and rots the cloth.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Storm jibs:</span></h3> - -<p>Storm jibs, as shown in most sail plans, are altogether -too small, and are of no use whatever. When a sail of -that size would be any good it would be blowing too hard -to use any canvas forward of the mast. A storm jib -wants to be big enough to give the boat some life. To -do this it must have a pull to it. They should be roped -heavily, and have good strong clew pieces and irons. -The only way to set them is flying.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Shifting jibs in heavy weather:</span></h3> - -<p>If you have to shift jibs in a blow, with a heavy sea -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_39">39</span> -running, it is an extremely difficult and sometimes dangerous -job. The jib you are going to set should be stopped -up, as it is much easier to handle in that form. In getting -in a jib at such times be very careful about how you slack -off the sheet, as men are frequently knocked off a spar or -hurt by the sheet being let fly while they are on the bowsprit. -Don’t have any more men forward than are actually -needed to shift the sails, as their weight will depress -the boat’s head and make it wet working.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Coils of gear:</span></h3> - -<p>If your running gear is stowed around the mast when -underway in bad weather, it is a good plan to trice the -coils up in the rigging. Here it will not get washed loose -and tangled up, and can be readily found and handled. -Gear in the coil should always be kept clear for running; -nothing looks worse, or is worse, than a mess of halyards -lying about a boat’s deck or cockpit. Teach your crew -to always coil down the gear at once, and to always turn -the coil over, so that it will run clear when let go.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Running gear:</span></h3> - -<p>The ends of all halyards, sheets and lifts should be -made fast, if you are going to sail at night, or in rough -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_40">40</span> -weather, as they are liable to get adrift and cause a lot -of trouble before being recovered. Frequently, when letting -the sail run in a hurry, the halyards will bunch and -go aloft; if the end is fast you can easily recover them. -The readiest way to make the end fast is to open the -strands and pass the pin or cleat through the rope.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Running rigging:</span></h3> - -<p>The length of life of your running rigging can be increased -by turning the rope end-for-end, thus bringing -a new part to work in the blocks. Sheets are apt to -wear and strand where they play in the block when the -boat is close-hauled.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Jib sheets:</span></h3> - -<p>If your jib sheets are rove double bring both ends aft -and join them behind the cockpit; then the hauling part -will not get away from you, and can always be found, -even in the darkest night. Another way is to bore a hole -in the cockpit rail, pass the end through and knot it.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Peak downhaul:</span></h3> - -<p>In heavy weather always bend a peak downhaul. Take -a long enough piece of good flexible manila and splice an -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_41">41</span> -eye in it. Put this eye over the end of spar, and make the -loose end fast to a lower hoop, or on the pin rail. With -this downhaul you can control the gaff and get the peak -down, no matter how hard it blows.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Mainsail hoisting on track:</span></h3> - -<p>Sails having their luff running on a track up the mast -will frequently stick, despite the assurances of the inventor -and vendor of these patent devices. To insure -working, keep the track well-greased, and let go the -throat halyards before you do the peak, always keeping -the gaff at a high angle while lowering down. In this -way the weight of the gaff will force the slides down -the track.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Reefing at night:</span></h3> - -<p>If sailing at night, and it looks at all like bad weather -coming, get in a reef in your large sail before dark, as -you can do it then quickly and properly. If suddenly -struck by a heavy wind you will have your boat better -prepared to meet it.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Reefing:</span></h3> - -<p>If you carry an amateur crew you should constantly -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_42">42</span> -practice them at reefing. Give each man his station, -and teach him to keep it, and not interfere with the work -of the others. It is a good plan when sailing on a breezy -day to reef and shake out several times, as this will give -your crew practice. A well-trained crew will reef a -mainsail of a small yacht in less time than it takes to -write this.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Tacks for reefing:</span></h3> - -<p>Always keep a tack in your sail at each reef band. -Take a short piece of small rope, whip both ends, pass -this through the cringle, making each end the same -length, then open the rope just under the cringle and -pass the other part through it. Your tack will stay there -and always be ready to tie down.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Pendants for reefing:</span></h3> - -<p>These should always be kept rove, if the end of the -boom is outboard. If the sail is a small one, put a snap-hook -on the end that goes in the cringle, but do not trust -hooks if the sail is heavy; splice your rope in.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Reefing:</span></h3> - -<p>When reefing a boom sail, before lying along make -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_43">43</span> -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_44">44</span> -sure that the mainsheet is fast, so that it cannot slip, -as this happening is likely to throw you overside. If the -boat is rolling badly it is best to secure the boom with -a lashing from each side to hold it steady, as this will -make reefing easier.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_043.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">WIND ABAFT THE BEAM.</p> -</div> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Reefing:</span></h3> - -<p>In a heavy seaway it is easier and handier to reef with -all the sail down and the boat running broad off, as she -will go along steady. It is very difficult to reef a boat -when in the trough of the sea.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Reefing:</span></h3> - -<p>When hauling out the foot of your sail to reef do not -pull it out too hard, especially if it is liable to get wet -from rain or sea, as the cloth will shrink and pull the leach -out of shape. Be sure and pass a good lashing around -the pendant close to the cringle and, if there is room, -through it. Don’t haul out on your pendant until the -tack is tied in.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Reef, shaking out a:</span></h3> - -<p>Set up on your lift. Cast off the points, beginning in -the middle and working both ways. Then cast off the -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_45">45</span> -tack and clew-cringle lashing; then the pendant. Be -sure all the points are loose before hoisting, as you are -liable to tear the sail if one is fast.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Reefing before starting:</span></h3> - -<p>Before leaving harbor, if it looks breezy outside, tie in -a reef, or reefs. When outside, and you can feel the -weight of wind, you can then judge whether to carry -more sail or not. If close-reefing, tie in number one and -then number two over it. This will enable you to shake -out one reef at a time.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Running off:</span></h3> - -<p>When running off in heavy weather, if you have a jib -keep it on her and haul it dead flat; then if she attempts -to broach the wind hitting in the jib will drive her head -off again. All boats going where winds are likely to be -heavy should carry a small, strong headsail to use for -this purpose.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Running off in a seaway:</span></h3> - -<p>Keep your boom topped up, so that it is clear of the -sea when she rolls to leeward. Don’t give the sail too -much sheet, as you will find that she will steer better if -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_46">46</span> -the boom is at a smaller angle, and be less likely to be -broken or to damage the rigging.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Mainsheet:</span></h3> - -<p>Always keep a knot in the end of your mainsheet, or -else make it fast. If the end gets away you will have -trouble.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Jibing a mainsail:</span></h3> - -<p>The only safe way to jibe in a breeze is to lower the -peak and top up the boom, before getting the sail over. -In ordinary airs you can jibe a boat if you pay attention -to the helm, and get the sheet down flat. Let her come -easy. If forced to jibe all standing with the sheet off, -just as soon as the boom comes over put your helm, hard -the other way, so as to throw the boat round, and get -the wind back of the sail. This will break the force and -save the knockdown, but is liable to break the boom. -If fitted with backstays, look out for them.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Wearing a yawl:</span></h3> - -<p>Slack off the mizzen sheet, if that sail is set; haul your -jib a-weather; flatten the mainsheet; put the helm up -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_47">47</span> -and let her come round slowly, easing off the mainsail as -she pays off.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Steering a yawl:</span></h3> - -<p>Going with a strong current or tide through a channel, -when there is no wind, you can steer a yawl by taking -hold of the mizzen boom and working that sail from side -to side. When beating to windward in a light breeze, -with a strong tide under the lee, hauling the mizzen to -windward will help a yawl considerably, especially if she -is at all slack-headed.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Jibing a yawl:</span></h3> - -<p>Haul your mizzen if set fairly flat; slack the lee jib -sheet and haul in the weather at the same time, until this -sail is properly trimmed. Get your mainsheet aft gradually. -Put the helm up slowly, and if the mizzen is set -jibe that first, then the mainsail. The reason for trimming -the jib and mizzen is this: If when the mainsail -comes over she knocks down the other two sails will -shoot her up in the wind, and give you a chance to shoot -her out. If the mizzen it not set, light your jib sheets -sufficiently to allow her to come up. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_48">48</span></p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Coming to at a dock:</span></h3> - -<p>If you have to come to at a dock or pier on the windward -side, go well to windward of it, lower your sail, -and steer straight for it. Have an anchor and warp -ready aft, and when close enough to reach let go your -anchor and pay out, checking her way as you near the -structure.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Lying at a dock or pier:</span></h3> - -<p>It is always best to lie head or stern on to a dock if -you intend to remain long or over night. Always run out -an anchor to hold her off in case the wind shifts, or if for -any reason you have to haul out. In making your head -fast be sure to allow length enough, if in a tidal harbor, -or you will be hung up when the water falls.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Clubbing:</span></h3> - -<p>This is one way of getting down a narrow fairway -when a swift current is going with you. By employing -it you will be able to keep off the banks and to dodge -anchored vessels. Send a man forward and let him heave -in on the anchor until it breaks, then let him keep it -trailing along the bottom, checking the vessel whenever -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_49">49</span> -needed, by paying out enough slack cable to make the -hook bite. The skipper at the helm can then shear her -with the rudder to port or starboard, as he wishes. The -current moving faster than the boat will give her steerageway. -Instead of an anchor you can use a heavy -chain to drag along the bottom.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Sailing in a current:</span></h3> - -<p>If bucking a strong tide or current a vessel will answer -to the slightest touch of the helm, but if going with the -stream she will steer slowly and badly. This must be -looked out for in running narrow entrances between jetties -and bars. Sometimes it is better to go out stern first, -if the wind is blowing directly in, letting the vessel sail -slowly before the wind and drop back faster with the -tide.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Sailing against current:</span></h3> - -<p>In going against a strong current to windward you can -force a vessel through, no matter how strong the tide is, -if you can lay up close enough to get the wind on one bow -and the tide on the other. The pressure of opposing -forces will drive the vessel ahead. You will often see -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_50">50</span> -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_51">51</span> -schooners get through the Long Island Sound Race in -this way against a strong ebb, running over 5 knots.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_050.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">IN HARBOR, DRYING OUT.</p> -</div> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Tide under the lee:</span></h3> - -<p>With the tide or current under the lee bow trim your -after canvas dead flat, unless the sea is large. Let her -eat out to windward on an easy helm, humoring to keep -good way on all the time.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Current, sailing in a calm:</span></h3> - -<p>Going through a passage with a strong favorable current -and no wind, lay your vessel broadside to the drift -of the tide, then the speed of the stream will make a -breeze in the sails and give your boat steerageway. Tack -on approaching the shore, and stand over for the other, -being careful to tack while still in the strength of the -stream.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Anchored in a current:</span></h3> - -<p>If at anchor in a current with the wind blowing against -the tide, to keep the yacht from riding over her anchor, -tie a bucket on a rope and drop it over the stern. This -is a good way to keep a dingey away from a yacht’s stern -when tide-rode. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_52">52</span></p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Heaving-to:</span></h3> - -<p>To heave-to a vessel you must trim your sails so that -the wind presses on one side of one sail and the other -side of the other or others. In a boat like a sloop or yawl -you can heave-to by drawing your jib a-weather, by -slacking off the lee and hauling on the weather sheet. -This causes the force of the wind in the jib to counteract -the force in the after canvas. By slacking off the mainsheet -until a balance of power is established between mainsail -and jib a boat will lie almost in one place.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Lying-to:</span></h3> - -<p>It is a very simple matter to lay a fore-and-aft vessel -to. But in the first place you should find out in reasonably -good weather what sail she will lie-to best under. -Knowing this, snug her down to it before bringing her -head to it. The best sail is that nearest amidships; but -some boats require more after canvas and some more -forward. No rule can be laid down, each vessel in this -respect being peculiar to itself. When ready, watch your -seas until after a big one has past you; get a smooth, -then put your helm down easily and bring her to with -a long sweep. The amount of sail she wants is enough -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_53">53</span> -to keep her just moving ahead, so that there will be steerageway -and no more. Use plenty of oil while rounding -to and afterwards, if the seas are cresting and breaking.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Lee shores:</span></h3> - -<p>Unless the weather is fine and you are well acquainted -with them, keep off lee shores. A lee shore is a bad place -to go aground, and it is a bad place to be caught on if a -heavy blow comes.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Weather shore:</span></h3> - -<p>In strong winds and heavy weather it is always best -to get in under the lee of a weather shore, and to keep it -aboard as long as possible. You should figure to do this -in mapping out runs from place to place. In running a -weather shore keep working your boat up to it, especially -in the bights between headlands. This will enable you to -choose your own distance in rounding the outermost -points and prevent being driven off shore.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Caught on a lee shore:</span></h3> - -<p>If caught at anchor close on a lee shore where you are -too close to wear with safety, you can get your anchor -and cast your boat in the right tack by this method: -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_54">54</span> -Make sail; then when all is ready heave in until half -scope; then get a bucket with a line bent to it, carry this -line outside the rigging and the bucket as far forward as -possible. Let one hand hold it ready to cast overboard -on the side you want to fill on. Haul in your anchor -quickly; when broken out, heave the bucket overboard, -and give a slow, steady pull on the line from as far aft as -convenient. This will hold her stern and the bow will -swing off in the opposite direction. If you have no -bucket, use a hunk of ballast, and slip it when her head -is round.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Miss-staying in a seaway:</span></h3> - -<p>The cause of this is generally carelessness or haste. -Sufficient way is not on the boat when the helm is put -down, owing to her being too near the wind. Always -give a boat a good full before putting the helm a-lee. -You should watch the sea and make the move when there -is a smooth flat spot between the waves. If there is any -doubt of the boat’s getting round it is better to wear her.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Miss-staying in a seaway:</span></h3> - -<p>If your boat miss stays in a seaway and gets sternway -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_55">55</span> -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_56">56</span> -on, don’t jam your helm hard over. Keep it amidship, -and try and get your headsail a-back; then slowly -put your helm over. It is a dangerous practice to jam a -helm hard over when a boat is making a stern board in a -seaway, as you are liable to damage the rudder or drive -her counter under. If a centerboard boat, pull up the -board, as this will help her to fall off.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_055.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">REEFING.</p> -</div> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Caught on a lee shore:</span></h3> - -<p>If it is too windy and rough to get your anchor, prepare -to slip. Get the bitter end on deck and bend a buoy -to it. See all clear to cast over. Haul in as much as you -dare to, and bend a small line to hawser or chain. Carry -this line aft to the quarter outside the rigging. When -ready, slip and haul in on the small line. As soon as she -swings off cut the spring.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Sailing in a seaway:</span></h3> - -<p>When sailing in a seaway don’t trim a boat flat. Give -her a liberal lift of sheet, and sail her with a good full. -Never let her lose way, as your safety depends upon -always having control of her motions. Keep a close -watch on the water on your weather bow, and judge how -to take a wave before it strikes you. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_57">57</span></p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Sailing in a seaway:</span></h3> - -<p>In sailing a boat in a seaway and heavy breeze amateurs -are apt to make two mistakes. One to carry too -much sail, the other, too little. In the first place, the -boat cannot be kept full; in the second, she hasn’t sufficient -drive to keep her moving. Carry as much sail -as she will keep full and not bury under.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Mizzen on a yawl:</span></h3> - -<p>It is a mooted question among yawlsmen as to whether -the mizzen is of use or not when going dead before the -wind. If you can wing it—that is, get the boom on the -opposite side to that of the mainboom—it is, as it makes -a boat steer steadier. But if it is off on the same side as -the mainsail it is doubtful if it helps the speed. I have -tried the experiment repeatedly and cannot find that it -makes any difference in a strong breeze; but it does help -in light airs. In a strong wind the boat will do better -with the mizzen stowed, is my opinion.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Mizzen on a yawl:</span></h3> - -<p>The handling of this sail seems to be a problem that -worries many young skippers. No fixed rule can be -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_58">58</span> -laid down, it depending largely on the shape of the boat, -the position and size of the sails. Generally speaking, -with the wind forward or on the beam, the mizzen should -be sheeted flatter than the mainsail. How flat, depends -upon the effect it has on the steering. If the boat gripes, -ease it off; if she is slack-headed, haul it flatter. In beating -through a narrow channel work it as you do the jib, -but exactly opposite; that is, with the helm a-lee haul -in flat; as she pays off ease the sheet. In this way you -will help the rudder to bring the boat round. The mizzen -sheet should be belayed where the helmsman can readily -get at it, so that by working the sheet in combination with -the tiller he can control his vessel.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Working to windward:</span></h3> - -<p>In working to windward in open water for a long distance -stand on the tack which looks up nearest to your -destination. On this tack the wind is as foul as it is -possible for it to be, and cannot shift in either direction -without favoring you. Attention should be paid to the -probable direction of the shift, and a course shaped that -will bring you into such a position as will lift your vessel -up and not throw her to leeward of her course. For -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_59">59</span> -instance, if the wind is East, stand on the tack towards -the Southeast, because it is probable that the wind will -move round with the sun across your bow and be constantly -freeing you until you can stand your course on -the other tack. This is largely a study of local conditions, -and can be mastered only by constant observation -of the tendencies of the wind at certain seasons of the -year.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Working to windward:</span></h3> - -<p>If the wind is offshore, blowing at an angle, so that -you can make a long and short leg, keep close under the -weather shore, as the wind will draw more favorable -there than further out. For instance, if the shore lies -East and West and the wind be Southwest, under the -weather shore it will haul more to the South, sometimes -as much as a point, thus enabling you to lengthen your -long leg. Besides, you have the advantage of smoother -water.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Working to windward cruising:</span></h3> - -<p>If the wind is so foul as to be dead ahead it is waste -of labor to try to beat a small boat a long distance to -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_60">60</span> -windward. With the best of handling you cannot make -more than three miles an hour, and a very good day’s -work is twenty miles. Probably the next day the wind will -come favorable, and you can make that twenty miles in -four or five hours. If you are pressed for time and have -to do it, take the first of the fair tide.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Light sails, sheeting:</span></h3> - -<p>Never sheet light balloon or running sails; let them -sheet themselves. If you trim these sails the way you -do working canvas you will destroy much of their power. -To get the sail right, slack off the sheet until the luff -trembles, then belay. If you sheet them, the whole after -angle becomes a back sail. The object is to get them to -pull ahead, not sideways. The minute a balloon sail has -to be sheeted aft to make it draw take it in and set your -working canvas. You will do better with it.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Rounding a mark:</span></h3> - -<p>Coming down to round a mark with running sails set, -when within fair working distance hoist and sheet your -working headsails, if the ballooner is not set on the jib-stay. -Get your main sheet aft and runners ready; then -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_61">61</span> -when close to the mark take in your spinnakers and ballooner. -In this way you are ready at once to haul on -the wind. If you take in your light sails first you will -have them littering up the deck and in the way, delaying -getting the working sails set and sheeted, and consequently -the boat instead of being able to make a sharp -turn will drag off to leeward.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Rounding a mark:</span></h3> - -<p>If rounding a mark to leeward, always do so before -you reach it. In order to do this, if possible, keep away -from it some distance, and put your helm down gradually; -then you will not kill the boat’s way and will give your -crew time to get the sheets flattened down. If you come -down and take the mark close aboard and then turn it, -you will have to put your helm hard down, killing the -boat’s way and causing her to sag off to leeward.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Rounding a mark:</span></h3> - -<p>If another boat is abreast of or overlapping, and will -be between you and the mark, try and drop back before -reaching the turning stake, so as to let her get ahead. -You will lose less by doing so than you will by rounding -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_62">62</span> -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_63">63</span> -close under her lee, as once round you can probably -free your wind and get clear of her wake by a sharp -luff. You have also a chance to cut in if her crew make a -fumble of their sheet work; but if you are under her -you will have no chance at all.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_062.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">RUNNING BEFORE THE GALE.</p> -</div> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Rounding, a windward mark:</span></h3> - -<p>Before rounding a windward mark, if the next leg is -a run, make up your mind which side you are going to -carry your spinnaker on. Get the pole along on that side -and the after guy passed and hooked on. Then before -getting to the mark hoist the spinnaker clean up and -hook in the clew. Just as soon as you are round and -squared off run the pole out and square it, and break the -sail. A good crew should get a sail set in this way in -fifteen seconds.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Trimming:</span></h3> - -<p>A vessel to sail her best wants to be kept on a level -water line; the minute she shoves her head up or down it -kills her speed. This is true of sail, power or any kind -of craft. Therefore, in racing, see that your crew keep -her trimmed to a level by constantly moving and balancing -their weights. If a man goes out on the bowsprit -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_64">64</span> -move a man aft to counterbalance his weight. Never let -a bunch of men get forward, as is often done when taking -in or setting light sails. It is better to do this work -slower and keep the boat properly trimmed.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Balloon-jib sheet, to shift a:</span></h3> - -<p>Have two separate sheets rigged with snaphooks. If -you come down to a mark with your balloon jib on one -side and want to shift it over so as to carry it on the other, -before jibing over gather the sail up and roll it out to the -stay; there stop it. Unhook the sheet on that side and -hook on the other. As soon as you are round break out. -By doing this you don’t have the bother of passing the -sheet in use forward around the stay and aft again in the -other side all of which takes time and causes confusion. -When not in use, keep the sheets hooked to the stay, and -fast aft. You can stop the sail with the sheet, using a -turn similar to that made round a flag when hoisted in -a ball or bundle.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Shroud-parting:</span></h3> - -<p>If a shroud parts, go right on the other tack; then -get any tackle you can that is idle and set it up in place -of the rope carried away. If you have no tackle aloft -that is not working get a piece of hawser or large-sized -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_65">65</span> -rope and pass it round the mast above the other rigging. -Take it round the spar with a clove hitch and stop the -end. Seize a bight in the lower part high enough up to -get the watch tackle in between it and whatever you have -at the rail to make fast to. Then set it up and rack the -tackle. If the chain plate is gone, and you have nothing -to make fast to, you can secure the lower end in this way, -as I once did. Bore a hole through the deck just inside -the clamp, and one through the side just below the clamp. -Pass a piece of wire rope through these holes and marry -the ends. Into this loop hook your tackle. All boats of -any size should have two shrouds on each side.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Burst main sheet:</span></h3> - -<p>If your main sheet bursts or the shackle breaks and the -tackle gets away, keep the boat as near the wind as -possible. Then slack up on the weather topping lift until -you can reach the bight. Get this inboard and aft, and -haul on it easily, slacking down the throat of the sail at -the same time; then the peak. If you have only one lift -rove, slack down the throat, and try to get a line on the -boom, as far out as possible. If this won’t work, cut off -the hoops, unship the heel of the boom and run it inboard. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_66">66</span> -It is a very dangerous situation if any sea is on, and requires -skill and courage to master it.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Mast carried away:</span></h3> - -<p>If you carry away a mast in a seaway get it clear of -all gear as soon as possible, as it may smash in your side. -If it is rigged with wire shrouds and rigging screws, and -you cannot get these loose, saw off the head of the mast -just below the eyes of the rigging. If the sea is not too -heavy you can veer the broken spar astern and tow it, or -else haul it in over the stern and lash it fast. It is better -to save the spar, if possible, as it makes it easier to replace -it.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Burst bobstay:</span></h3> - -<p>This is a bad accident, as you are liable to lose your -mast. Get the mainsail off of her at once. If you have a -crotch, put it under the boom so as to take the weight off -the mast until you have it secured. Take your jib or -staysail halyards or preventer backstays, hook them to -the bits or around the bowsprit close to the cranze, and -heave taut. Get the yacht before the wind, if possible. -Then make the best job of the bobstay you can. A watch -tackle makes the best temporary repair. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_67">67</span></p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Want of speed, i:</span></h3> - -<p>The want of speed in sailing craft is due to many -causes. The most frequent is the result of over-ballasting -or to the ballast being in the wrong place. This is especially -so in shoal, flat-floored models. Frequently, if a -boat prove sluggish, a yachtsman will attempt to improve -her speed by adding more sail, and then to carry this sail, -will ship more weight. Consequently, the boat is slower -and worse-acting than before. If your boat does not -seem to be up to her speed, try first by removing a portion -of the ballast, and by continually shifting the weights. -To try her, sail alongside another boat, of whose comparative -speed you are aware, and you will soon find out -your boat can be improved in this way.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Want of speed, ii:</span></h3> - -<p>Sometimes the sails are to blame, usually through these -not being properly set, owing to the blocks being placed -in positions where they cannot properly hold up the -spars; or, having too little draft. Want of draft will -cause a boat to be sluggish in light airs.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Want of speed, iii:</span></h3> - -<p>If shifting ballast or getting better sails will not bring -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_68">68</span> -the boat to her form, try altering the position of the -centerboard or mast. Much additional speed is frequently -gained by moving the mast or board. You cannot discover -the faults of a boat by analysing her design; you -must work it out by sailing her, and studying her actions -in all weights of wind.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Speed, to judge:</span></h3> - -<p>If you have no log, you can by practice get so that you -can gauge a boat’s speed within a half knot by watching -the water. When running along shore, make a practice -of timing the boat between measured points. By doing -this constantly you will get so experienced that you can -judge by eye very close to the speed she is making. -Another way is to time her as she passes floating objects, -or while passing a stick dropped over from the bow, -count the seconds one, two, three, and so on, until it -passes the stern. Knowing the length of the boat by -this means you can roughly estimate her speed through -the water. If your boat is 25 feet long, and it takes her -5 seconds to pass an object, she is making about 3 knots.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Towing:</span></h3> - -<p>When towing a heavy boat or another yacht, with the -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_69">69</span> -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_70">70</span> -wind anywhere on the beam, make your towing warp -fast on your weather quarter. This will make the load -tow easier and your boat will steer better. When towing -with the wind aft, keep the warp amidships, by using a -bridle from each quarter. If the tow is being steered, -veer a long scope of hawser, so as to get a heavy bight; -this will ease the strain in a seaway.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_069.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">TRIPPING.</p> -</div> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Towing alongside:</span></h3> - -<p>To tow a dingey alongside, make fast to the fore -thwart, or to anything, about one-third aft from the stem. -In this way you can tow a dingey under the lee while getting -men or stores out of her. The same plan is used in -towing along a canal or narrow thoroughfare by tracking -on the bank.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Towing:</span></h3> - -<p>When towing, never make a warp fast so that it cannot -be instantly cast off. It is always best to keep a sharp -knife handy, so as to be able to cut the line. In a seaway -this should always be looked to.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Towing, to tack when:</span></h3> - -<p>When towing a heavy boat in rough water, or when -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_71">71</span> -the wind is scanty, and you have to tack, place a hand or -two on the line to haul in. When ready to put the helm -down have them take in considerable slack. At the call -“Helm’s a-lee!” let go the line and tack your boat on the -slack line. This will enable you to get round and have -way before the pull of the tow comes on your boat.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Anchors:</span></h3> - -<p>Anchors should be looked to and taken care of just -the same as any other gear. The same with chain. If -you keep your spare hook below, see that it is a place -where you can readily get at it, and not buried in a heap -of old ropes, awning stanchions, and other dunnage. I -have fully covered this subject and that of anchoring in -the book, <i>On Yachts and Yacht Handling</i>, which I advise -you to read.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">To get an anchor in a seaway:</span></h3> - -<p>It is sometimes very difficult to get an anchor in a seaway -with a hard wind blowing. It can be done in this -way: Take a turn with the hawser round the post or -bitts. Watch when she pitches. As she descends she -will slack up the hawser. Quickly take in this slack and -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_72">72</span> -hold when she scends. In this way you can get it foot by -foot, and, when close under, the sea will break the hook -out for you.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">To get a line on a fluke:</span></h3> - -<p>If an anchor is lost or foul you can get a line on the -upper fluke in this way, if the water is not too deep: -Feel for the fluke with a pole or, better, a piece of iron -gas pipe. When found, rest the pipe end on the tip of -the fluke. Then send a messenger of rope with slip noose, -down the pipe or pole until it falls over the fluke and on -the arm. Carefully haul it taut, using the pole to keep it -from slipping off until firmly fixed. By this means you -can get a back pull on an anchor and shake it loose if -caught under a timber or rock.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">To sweep an anchor:</span></h3> - -<p>If you have lost your anchor, and there is chain or -hawser on it, you can recover it by dragging with a grapnel -back and forth across where you suppose the hawser -is lying. If there is no chain or hawser attached, you -will have to sweep for it. Take two boats and pass a -weighted line between them, then row back and forth, -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_73">73</span> -dragging the bight of the line across the bottom until it -finds the lost hook. Sometimes you can get an anchor -by making fast one end of the sweep and rowing round -in a circle, paying out the line as you go. Let it sink; -then bring both ends together, as fishermen do a net, and -haul in slowly. The best sweep is one made with a piece -of chain in the middle.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">To lay out an anchor:</span></h3> - -<p>Get the anchor in the boat flukes toward the bow, then -coil down in the boat about two-thirds of the line to be -payed out. Start the boat off and pay out what you have -on board. In this way the oarsman has not got to drag a -heavy weight of line after him. Use the same method -to run out a guess warp to be made fast ashore.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">To lay out a heavy anchor:</span></h3> - -<p>Get two boats and lash them side by side. Put a strong -stick or oar across the gunwales and lash it fast. Lower -the anchor overboard with a tackle from aloft and swing -it in between the boats, ring up. Lash the ring to the -beam. When you get to the spot where you want to drop -it set the hawser all clear for running and cut the ring -lashing. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_74">74</span></p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">To raise a heavy anchor:</span></h3> - -<p>Lash two boats together. Put a round beam or spar -across the gunwales and ship a couple of hand-sticks in it -so as to turn it like a windlass. Take the line on the -anchor round the spar and turn, winding it slowly up. -Keep the beam from rolling out of place by two guys, one -at each end, with an eye over it. The guys want to lead -from the end of the boat on the side that the rope from -the anchor comes up.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Anchoring:</span></h3> - -<p>Don’t anchor on bad bottom without putting a trip -line on the anchor. The worst bottom for fouling is -one over which boulders are strewn. Also be careful -how you anchor in any place where sunken wrecks are -likely to be found.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Moorings:</span></h3> - -<p>The weight necessary to furnish a secure mooring depends -upon the locality, the amount of exposure, the -depth and character of the bottom, and the weight and -model of the boat. It is always better when on the safe -side by using as heavy a mooring as possible. For -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_75">75</span> -ordinary conditions, multiply the length over all of the -boat by five, the answer being the weight in pounds that -is needed. In exposed situations this weight should be -largely increased. The best moorings are mushroom -anchors, where the bottom is suitable for their use, as -they can be readily recovered when it is desirable to -take them up.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Making a mooring:</span></h3> - -<p>To do this properly requires judgment and practice. -Nothing looks worse than to see a man make a bungle of -getting a mooring. If he is familiar with his boat, there -is no excuse for mismanaging the job. The first thing -to learn is how far your boat will carry way when thrown -into the wind. This you can find out only by observation -and practice. Having discovered this, set a range on -shore to use when coming to; one that will place you at -about the right distance. A better plan is to calculate -your distances by lengths of your boat. If your boat is -thirty feet long, and will carry way for six lengths, luff -up at a distance of 180 feet. Always, if you have good -way on, go directly to leeward of the mooring. Luff -with a long sweep, for if you put your helm over too -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_76">76</span> -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_77">77</span> -quickly you will kill the boat’s way and fall short. If the -wind is light, go to leeward and come to the buoy at an -angle, with your sheets lighted up; then by trimming and -spilling you can baby her up to the mooring. If a boat -is coming with too much way on you can kill her speed -by shoving the helm hard across, first one way and then -the other. Take an afternoon off some day and practice -picking up your mooring and you will soon have it down -to a science.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_076.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">AT ANCHOR, BLOCK ISLAND POND.</p> -</div> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Making a mooring to leeward:</span></h3> - -<p>This should never be done unless you have to, as it -is more likely to get you into a mix-up. But in places -where there is strong tide running against the wind it is -the only way. Go well to windward, and take enough -sail off so that she will just about stem the tide; then steer -right for the buoy and pick it up, getting sail down at -once.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Mooring hook:</span></h3> - -<p>Get an iron hook made, shaped like the hooks used -by women on their dresses, only longer in the shank. -Splice a rope to this and then fasten to it and the rope -a short piece of stick, long enough to reach from the rail -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_78">78</span> -to the water. When you come to the mooring the bowman -can hook this into the ring and hold her until you get -the sail down and can pass the mooring warp. A little -practice with one of these contrivances will make a man -so expert that he can catch the ring every time, even by -throwing the hook several feet.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Mooring warp:</span></h3> - -<p>If your boat lies at moorings where there is constant -jump of sea on, or where the tide and wind keep her -yawing about, the warp should be well-armored where -it comes through the chock or over the rail. Leather is -best for this. A boat will lie much easier if a bridle is -used, an end being brought aboard at each bow. Don’t -leave the warp hanging to the buoy, especially if the -water is foul or the bottom muddy. Not only will it rot, -but every time you take it on board it will dirty the boat.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Mooring chain:</span></h3> - -<p>It is best to use a heavy chain, much heavier than is -really needed, to stand the strain, as the boat will ride -in all ordinary weather to the weight of the chain, and -not to the block or anchor. In this way she will take -the seas easier and not try the gear so much. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_79">79</span></p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Dropping a mooring:</span></h3> - -<p>This is a simple proceeding, if you have plenty of sea -room on either side of you. If not, use a cant line, as it -will enable you to cast your boat on either tack. To do -this take a light line and pass it through the ring on the -buoy, and bring both ends aft outside the rigging to the -quarter. If you want to go off on the port tack, bringing -it on the port quarter, and on the starboard tack on -that quarter. Let go the mooring warp and hold on to -the cant line until she swings and fills; then let go one -end of it and it will slip the buoy ring. If you want to go -off before the wind hang on until she comes stern to the -buoy, then slip. This is a much simpler and surer way -than trying to cast her with the mooring warp.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Moorings:</span></h3> - -<p>Most accidents happen to moored yachts, not through -the anchor failing to hold, but through the line or chain -parting. Frequently the line is too short, and an extra -high tide, such as often accompanies a storm, causes the -boat to lift the anchor. Most accidents happen late in -the season when the gear is rotted after months of laying -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_80">80</span> -on the mud. Mooring gear should be frequently looked -to.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Hawsers:</span></h3> - -<p>Hawsers, such as are employed on yachts, are very -perishable articles, and should be frequently aired. Excessive -dryness is very bad for manila rope. To prolong -the life of a hawser that is used for anchoring it should -be turned end-for-end frequently. If used in water where -sewerage or chemical refuse is present, wash the rope -thoroughly in clean water before stowing away.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Chain:</span></h3> - -<p>Chain is much cleaner than rope for use as anchor -warp where the bottom is muddy. Chain should be frequently -examined and tested, as it is liable to develop -weak links, which will give way when least expected.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Anchored in an exposed harbor:</span></h3> - -<p>If anchored in an exposed harbor, before turning in -at night reef your principal sail or sails, so that if it comes -on to blow you will be in shape to get quickly away. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_81">81</span></p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Anchor light:</span></h3> - -<p>Pay strict attention to the rule requiring a riding -light to be set from sunset to sunrise, if in a place where -other vessels are likely to come. Hoist it in such a position -that it will not be completely shadowed by the mast -from astern. If in close quarters, it is as well to have -another light aft, or at the end of the main or mizzen -boom.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Lights:</span></h3> - -<p>Make a practice of looking to your lights early in the -day. Fill and clean them all so they will be ready for -instant use. Side lights, riding, and binnacle lights, are -too often neglected, and when suddenly wanted are -empty and cannot be shown. It is difficult, and sometimes -dangerous, to fill lamps in the dark.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Light, a flare:</span></h3> - -<p>If sailing in waters where big vessels are frequenting -the fair ways, always keep a flare handy during the dark -hours. A bunch of rags tied on a stick, with a can of -kerosene to dip it into, makes a good flare. In case a -vessel does not see your side lights and bears down on -you, you can warn her off with a good bright flame. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_82">82</span> -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_83">83</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_082.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">SHEETS LIFTED.</p> -</div> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Lights, binnacle:</span></h3> - -<p>The ordinary brass or wooden binnacles made for -small yachts are pretty, but of very little use at night. The -lamps will not burn if the lid is closed, owing to the -heated air driving or keeping out the fresh and starving -the flame of oxygen. The best binnacle is a box large -enough to hold a small lantern. The lantern should be -of brass, not iron. Such lantern can be bought for 25 -cents in nearly any hardware store. Get two, keeping -one in reserve in case of accident. Bore plenty of holes -in the sides of the box. The best oil to use is railway -signal oil, which is a mixture of lard and kerosene.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Side lights:</span></h3> - -<p>Side lights should be carried well up the rigging, so as -to make them visible as far as possible. On launches they -should be put on top of the cabin house. Six feet above -deck on a small yacht is about the best height. This is -high enough to keep them from being washed out.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Stern light:</span></h3> - -<p>A lantern should always be kept handy just inside the -cuddy doors to be shown for a stern light if a vessel -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_84">84</span> -comes up from aft. If a steamer is coming down on you -from anywhere astern pull back the companion slide and -let the cabin light shine on the sail; they will be sure to -see the reflection and know what it is ahead of them.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Water tanks:</span></h3> - -<p>Water tanks, no matter how small, should be fitted -with splash plates, and plenty of them. Else when half -full they will be the worst nuisance possible in a seaway. -If the tank is large it should not only have athwartship -plates, but plates fore-and-aft. In power boats especially -they should be fitted in this way, as such craft are generally -bad and persistent rollers.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Water:</span></h3> - -<p>Drinking water causes more sickness than all other -foods combined, and yachtsmen cannot be too careful -where they get their supply. If you are not certain sure -of the fluid, boil it before using. Also keep your tanks -clean, and don’t put new water in on top of old that has -been in the tanks for weeks, or perhaps months. One -time I was going on a cruise and ordered the crew to fill -the tanks, but cautioned them not to take the supply from -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_85">85</span> -a pipe that led to the dock, but to go to the clubhouse for -it. When my back was turned they decided that the pipe -water was good enough, and filled up with it. Consequently -we got a dose of iron rust that laid the whole -crowd out for three days with an attack that would have -turned Mr. Beacham green with envy. If the water -gets riley from shaking up in a seaway you can instantly -clear it for drinking by putting in the glass a few drops -of lime juice.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Medicine chest:</span></h3> - -<p>When off cruising, a yacht should have in her locker -some simple remedies. Much suffering has been entailed -by neglect of this precaution. A roll of bandage, and -some absorbent cotton, some Pond’s Extract, salve, a few -pills, and a diarrhæa medicine, are good things to have. -I have known of a man being badly burned, and having -to suffer for hours before a port could be made, because -there was nothing on board to ease the pain.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Log:</span></h3> - -<p>A log is a most useful instrument, not only to register -distance, but to tell you what your boat is doing under -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_86">86</span> -different sails. There are several logs now made suitable -for small craft. By watching the log when you are sailing -you can tell whether or not your craft is doing her -best. By employing it I have frequently found that a -measure that I supposed would add speed has worked -just to the opposite. For instance, I have put on more -sail, and found by the log that instead of making the -boat go faster it has made her move slower. It will also -aid you in properly sheeting your sails, so as to get the -most effective work out of the canvas. Logs are a great -comfort in thick weather, when running for a landfall, -as they give you warning of your approach to it, and save -a lot of worry. But they must never be implicitly trusted.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Barometers:</span></h3> - -<p>Always when cruising carry a barometer, and constantly -watch it. This instrument does not foretell the -weather except indirectly. It is simply an instrument for -measuring the weight of the atmosphere. No change of -weather takes place without a change of the weight of the -air; therefore, when the barometer remains steady there -will be no change. If it goes up or down it means that -some change will take place. By learning what usually -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_87">87</span> -follows such fluctuations you can employ it to help you -in determining or foretelling the future weather conditions.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Weather:</span></h3> - -<p>The study of the weather is a most necessary as well -as an interesting occupation. To make a success of it -you must constantly observe the barometer, the sky, and -the sea. By learning the meaning of the colors in the -heavens at sunset and sunrise, and by knowing the different -forms of cloud, you can nine times out of ten foretell -the weather for the next day or two. The color of -the sea and its movements are also a guide. The actions -of fish, birds and animals, like whales and porpoises, will -also aid you. Nothing should be too minute to escape the -seaman’s observations, if he wants to become weather-wise.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Winds:</span></h3> - -<p>Make a study of the winds in the locality in which you -sail. You will find that nine times out of ten they go -through the same routine in shifting. By learning the -manner in which they change you can take advantage -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_88">88</span> -of these shifts. The winds in summer generally follow -the sun in its circuit, until they get back to their proper -place. If they go the other way, what is called back, you -can never trust them to stay long, and it is usually a sign -of bad weather. In sounds and estuaries the wind usually -comes in with the flood tide. If this tide makes in the -morning the wind will stay all day; if the flood makes in -the p. m. hours it will not last long. If the wind comes -in strong against the tide look out for a long blow. -Offshore winds usually come and go with the sun, reaching -their maximum velocity at noon and midnight.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Winds:</span></h3> - -<p>After a heavy squall you will usually have a calm spell -or an offshore breeze. Winds blowing in from the ocean -are weaker on the weather side of an island and heavier -and puffy on the lee side. On calm nights a gentle air -can often be found close under the land, when there is -none in mid-channel.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Squalls:</span></h3> - -<p>Never parley with a squall. Take in sail at once. You -can never tell from the appearance of a squall how much -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_89">89</span> -wind is in it. The most innocent-looking are generally -the most dangerous. I was once on a yacht when a -squall appeared that looked more like rain than wind. -All hands except the skipper, an old man, decided that -it would not amount to much. The skipper, much to our -disgust, insisted upon taking all sail off. We had scarcely -got the canvas lowered and gasketed before the squall -struck, and laid the yacht over on her side and kept her -there until the blast had spent itself. The force of the -blow was terrific; probably the air was traveling at the -rate of 70 or 80 miles an hour. A large lumber-laden -schooner close to had her foresail blown clean away and -lost part of her deck load. This taught me a lesson I have -never forgotten.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Squalls:</span></h3> - -<p>If becalmed, at the approach of a squall, get the vessel -headed toward the point you expect the blast to come -from, so that the wind will strike her bow on, and not on -the broadside. If the squall looks to be a lasting one, -anchor, if in shallow water.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Squalls, time of:</span></h3> - -<p>Squalls on the seacoast generally come off at either -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_90">90</span> -high or low water. If they come between tides they are -apt to be bad ones. If your feelings or the barometer -tell you a squall is likely to come off, carefully watch -inshore for the appearance of the wind. White squalls—that -is, sudden blows unaccompanied by cloud or rain, -are the most likely to catch you napping. They sometimes -precede a sudden change of wind. If you see the -water suddenly whiten inshore, look out for trouble, -and lower all sail at once.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Squall, struck by a:</span></h3> - -<p>If struck by a sudden squall, let go your main throat -halyards first—not the peak. By keeping the peak up -you will be able to luff the boat; letting go the throat will -relieve her until you can get in the wind and get your -sail down and muzzled. If you cannot get your sail -down, get her off before the wind and haul your mainsail -flat amidship; then steer so as to bring the wind dead -aft. This will split the force and give you a chance to -take in sail.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Tides:</span></h3> - -<p>The time of the tide has much to do with the strength -of the wind in sounds, bays, and channels. If a morning -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_91">91</span> -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_92">92</span> -flood brings in the wind it will usually blow all day. Ebb -tide in the morning is apt to produce calm or light winds -during the summer months on our Eastern seaboard. -Thunder squalls are also affected by the condition of the -tide, coming off land at either high or low water.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_091.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">THE COMING SQUALL.</p> -</div> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Tides:</span></h3> - -<p>Roughly speaking, the tide is one hour later every day. -It is theoretically high when the moon bears directly -South, either on one side of the world or the other, but -actually the friction of the water causes a retardation -which delays the wave until sometime after the moon -has made its southing.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Tides:</span></h3> - -<p>Channels open at both ends have generally very strong -tidal currents, but a small rise and fall. The highest -tides are in funnel-shaped bays or estuaries directly open -to the sea. The day tides are generally higher than those -at night.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">High water:</span></h3> - -<p>High water does not in many cases coincide with the -stop of the current. In places situated upon sounds, -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_93">93</span> -channels and passages, the current continues to flow long -after it is high water. The same with the ebb, which -runs after the tide has reached its lowest level.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">High water:</span></h3> - -<p>Frequently the tide is not found to be high at the time -given in the tables, and very often the current does not -turn at the hour and minute predicted. This does -not prove that the tables are unreliable or worthless. -The tide is frequently prolonged or retarded by the wind, -which, acting either with or against it, causes the current -to run with greater or less force.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Tides:</span></h3> - -<p>A correct and extensive knowledge of the tide is essential -to good work, if navigating salt water. A constant -study should be made of the tides, learn their strength, -direction and height. Always carry a tide book, and -make a habit of consulting the tables. By knowing the -exact time of the current changes and the locations where -they change earliest you will save hours of time in getting -from port to port. In estuaries and sounds the current -generally runs longest in mid-channel and changes on -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_94">94</span> -the inshore first. So if carrying the last of a tide keep -in midstream; if using the first of it keep inshore. -Eddies can be found by examining the shore line, and -drawing conclusions from the trend of the coast. Much -distance can sometimes be gained by working eddies if -sailing against an adverse current.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Attraction:</span></h3> - -<p>Floating objects have a tremendous attraction for each-other, -and if lying becalmed will gradually draw together. -This is an influence shared by every particle of -matter in the universe, but passes unnoticed upon land -where we only see it manifested as weight. It no doubt -accounts for many of the collisions at sea in thick weather. -Many strandings are also due to this attraction which -draws vessels towards the land. In sailing at night or -in thick weather along a coast, this force should be allowed -for. It is most likely to be felt on high, bold shores, and -least on low, shallow ones. It is this attraction that -causes your dingey on a still night to insist upon lying -against the stern or side of the yacht.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Working craft and steamers:</span></h3> - -<p>Yachtsmen should never unnecessarily bother coasters -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_95">95</span> -or steam vessels, or any craft that is on the water for -business. A yacht can be easily cast from tack to tack, -whereas it is a laborious job to turn a heavily laden -schooner round. But if you are not going to insist upon -having the right of way always tack or shift your helm in -plenty of time, so that the other man can know what you -are about. If you decide to stand on, do so, and don’t -balk at the last moment when close aboard of the other -vessel. It is this indecision which leads to collisions.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Coasters:</span></h3> - -<p>The lookout on coasters is generally badly kept, owing -to their being short-manned, and sometimes to carelessness. -At night and in foggy weather keep out of their -track, if possible. Also, keep out of the way of tugs towing -barges, as they are bad customers, who pay little -or no attention to the rights of small craft. Large steamers -are as a general thing very carefully navigated, and -can be trusted to go clear, if they see you; but remember -that yacht side lights are poor things, and cannot be -seen at any distance.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Anchored vessels:</span></h3> - -<p>Never try to cross the bows of anchored vessels, especially -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_96">96</span> -sailing craft, unless you are well to windward of -them. Trying to shave a jib-boom has cost many a man -a spar or a sail. It is always best if there is any doubt -of clearing to go under the vessel’s stern.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Underway, vessels:</span></h3> - -<p>Don’t attempt to cross the bows of another vessel, -especially a larger one, when underway, unless you are -certain you can clear her. You will be clear of the other -vessel, providing she holds the same course, when you -can see her anchor on the further bow. In meeting a -large sailing vessel, head to head, don’t pass close along -her lee side; your boat may become becalmed, soak in, -and get a nasty swipe from a boom end.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Cruising:</span></h3> - -<p>The rule for a cruiser is to start early and finish early. -Map out a run that with the expected conditions you can -complete easily in the allotted time. This, doing as many -shippers do, starting after the sun is well up and finishing -late, is the cause of discontent among a crew. Getting -into harbor after dark, hungry and tired, all hands are in -a bad humor, and work is neglected or scanted, and the -pleasure of the run spoiled. If you have wind, and the -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_97">97</span> -tide is right, get away at daylight and finish your run -before sunset; then you will have light to find an anchorage, -and get all snug before getting supper and turning -in.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Making a quick run:</span></h3> - -<p>To make a quick run in a sailing vessel wait until you -get the conditions favorable and start. Then carry all -she will, and push her right through. In this way I have -made 120 miles in 24 hours. It is seldom on our Eastern -Seaboard that you can make a run like this during the -summer season, the winds as a general thing losing their -strength after sunset.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Accidents to men:</span></h3> - -<p>The principal accident that endangers the life and limb -of yachtsmen is that inflicted by the main boom. I have -known several men to have lost their lives through being -struck by this spar, and have been twice badly hurt myself. -A jibing boom comes over with tremendous force, -and is likely, if it hits, either to fracture the skull or knock -the unfortunate person it hits overboard. In cruising -boats the foot of the sail should be cut up sufficiently aft -to raise the boom above the head of the man standing in -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_98">98</span> -the cockpit. In very small boats this cannot be done. Another -source of danger is the mainsheet. Great care -should be exercised in bad weather when handling it. -Also, look out for the blocks on the clew of the jib, as -they will give you a nasty rap.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Lead line, to make a:</span></h3> - -<p>It is no use marking a lead line as seamen do, as not -one man in a hundred can ever remember the marks. -Again, frequently you have to put a green hand to work -taking casts, and he never could tell one piece of rag from -another, or a hole in a piece of leather from one in the -water. Get a good-sized piece of corded rope, like that -used for window weights, measure of either five or ten -fathoms. Ten is best, if you intend to cruise far. At one -fathom clove hitch a short piece of marline round the -line and tie one knot in the end. At two fathoms two -knots and so on. In this way the greenest greenhorn -can tell by simply feeling with his fingers. I use a line -like this, and can tell in the darkest night just what the -cast is.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Leaks:</span></h3> - -<p>Leaks are most dangerous in the middle body and least -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_99">99</span> -dangerous at the ends, but the latter are most difficult to -find and stop. Sometimes a small leak may have its outside -opening far away from where it appears inside. This -is especially so if it comes through the bow or stern timbers. -It is seldom that a leak can be stopped from the inside, -although it may be temporarily checked. You -should always carry a small calking iron, some cotton, a -piece of sheet lead, copper or rubber, for use in stopping -leaks.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Leaks:</span></h3> - -<p>Centerboard boats, if old or not properly built, will -leak constantly, especially if they are hard-pressed. They -should be thoroughly looked to before being put overboard -in the spring, and any bad places cleaned out and -re-calked. The king bolt should also be removed and repacked. -Another source of leaks is the rudder port. In -many boats this opening is not carried high enough, and -in bad weather the sea slops in through it. It should be -boxed in and carried up to the deck.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Leaks:</span></h3> - -<p>Frequently a boat will leak in her topsides when heeled -down, causing a lot of annoyance, as water running in -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_100">100</span> -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_101">101</span> -there is apt to wet the bedding, etc. These leaks are -sometimes the effect of straining, owing to poor construction. -At other times they are due to sun exposure. If a -vessel is allowed to lie constantly with one side exposed -to the rays of the sun her plank will dry and open up. If -a boat is not put into commission early in the spring she -should be kept well-covered up to prevent this.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_100.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">HOVE TO.</p> -</div> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Leaks:</span></h3> - -<p>Leaky decks are difficult to make tight, and are the -worst possible nuisance. Wooden decks on small sail-boats -cannot be kept tight, unless they are covered with -canvas and kept well-painted. Wherever the canvas is -pierced, be careful to see that the cloth is carried well up -and closely tacked to the object that goes through it. If -a bolt or screw for a fairleader or hook passes through -have a wide washer at the base and screw it down hard. -Around the mast at the partners use a coat made of sheet -lead.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Leaks:</span></h3> - -<p>A very common place for leaks to develop is in the -rabbet between the garboard and keel, just under the -mast. This is due to the downward thrust and working -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_102">102</span> -of the spar. If a boat persists in leaking there, lengthen -the mast step so as to distribute the strain over a larger -space. Our modern plank-keel boats are liable to develop -cracks in the plank, which will only leak when -underway, and are difficult to discover, as they close up -when the boat is at rest. If the leak is bad it can be -readily found by hauling the boat out, filling her bilge -with water and watching where it drips out.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Leaks, stopping:</span></h3> - -<p>You can sometimes stop or check a leak by calking -from the inside, if you can get at it; but great care -should be exercised in driving the cotton not to push it -in too hard, as you may drive out what calking is in the -seam, and make the leak worse. Holes, if they can be -got at from the outside, can be covered with sheet lead, -copper, or a piece of rubber boot leg. In an emergency -the same can be used inside to check the flow. Barge men -frequently use horse manure to stop leaks in the seams -when near the water line; they throw it overboard and -let the water draw it into the crevice. I have checked -a leak by running a boat on a bar of soft sand, thus getting -sand in the seam. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_103">103</span></p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Leak, to frap a:</span></h3> - -<p>If you get a hole in the bottom from striking a rock -or other obstruction, and cannot put the boat ashore on -a safe place, you can check it enough to keep her afloat -by what is called frapping. Take a sail or large piece of -canvas, and fasten a line to each of the four corners, then -on the inside of the canvas sew a lot of oakum or cotton -so as to make a wad big enough to completely cover the -hole and a large space around it. Pass two of the lines -under the boat and bring them up on the side opposite -to the one the leak is on; keep the other two on the side -the leak is. Work the canvas along until it covers the -hole, and then haul all the lines taut, and make fast, the -pressure will force the wadding into the hole and check -the inflow of water until you can lay the boat ashore.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Scupper-pipe leaking:</span></h3> - -<p>If you get a bad leak in the scupper pipe, and cannot -get at it from the inside, the following method is a quick -and sure way of stopping the inflow of water: Cut a -round disk of wood about five times bigger across than -the outside opening of the pipe. Bore a hole in the -middle of this disk just small enough to pass a strong -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_104">104</span> -cord through and knot. Then on inside of the disk -fasten a good big wad of cotton batting, or oakum; this -you can do with tacks, thread or glue. I have used thick -paint and cotton wadding pulled out of an old quilt. -When the disk is ready, take another line and weight it -with a sinker, drop it down the scupper pipe until it hangs -outside, then fish it up with a boat hook and bring the -end on board. Marry the end of this cord to the cord -attached to the disk. Then haul the cord in through the -pipe until the disk comes up against and closes the scupper -hole. By taking a stick and making a windlass of it -you can roll the cord up tightly and secure the disk so -it will not slip.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Lookout reports:</span></h3> - -<p>The lookout should examine the side lights, at least -every half hour, and report to the man aft in command -their condition. He should also see that the set of the -headsails do not cover the lee light. If so, be prepared -to show it clear if a vessel approaches on that bow.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Side lights:</span></h3> - -<p>The side lights should be kept clean and the lamps -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_105">105</span> -properly trimmed. Use signal oil in them. After lighting -the lamps below place them in the lanterns, and let them -burn for some minutes with the door open. This will -dry out the moisture and allow it to escape. If you don’t -do this, your glass will cloud with watery vapor. The -cause of these lights refusing to burn is generally want -of air, owing to overheating. The gas inside preventing -the fresh oxygen from entering.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Working forward at night:</span></h3> - -<p>If you send a man forward of a rough dark night, put -a light line around him and have it fast aft, or else have -another hand hold it. This should always be done if a -headsail is to be taken in, as more men are lost off the -bowsprit than from any other spar.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Lookout:</span></h3> - -<p>Always at night, if sailing in waters frequented by -other vessels, keep a good lookout. If two men are in -the watch, have one forward whenever you get among -other craft, as it is difficult to keep a close watch to leeward -from the cockpit. The helmsman should keep a -lookout to windward and astern. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_106">106</span></p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Watch tackle:</span></h3> - -<p>A watch tackle or Handy Billy is most useful contrivance, -and should have a place on every cruising boat. -It is made of a single and double block, both having -hooks, or else the single having a hook and the double an -eye. For a small yacht, blocks carrying a 15-thread rope -are heavy enough. When stretched to its best there -should be at least 15 feet drift between the blocks. This -tackle saves oceans of labor, and makes the heaviest job -light. If your anchor sticks, Handy Billy will bring him -to terms. If you get aground, he will give a strong pull -on the warp to get you off. If the bobstay breaks, or a -shroud parts, he will help to keep the mast in while repairs -are being made. You want good, strong blocks, as -there is a tremendous strain when all the beef is on this -tackle. Keep Handy Billy in a safe and easily accessible -place, and he will pay you well for his lodgings.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Tack, which:</span></h3> - -<p>This is something that many men get sadly mixed on, -and consequently are frequently violating the rules of -the road. A vessel is on the starboard tack when her -boom is on the port side and the wind is blowing on her -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_107">107</span> -starboard side. She is on the port tack when the boom -is on the starboard side and the wind is blowing on her -port side. Not only are there men sailing who in an -emergency cannot tell the port side from the starboard, -but who do not know their right from their left hand. -One day I was watching a sergeant drilling a squad of -recruits. He said to me, “would you believe it, half -these men don’t know their right from their left hand.” -Upon my questioning this, he suddenly commanded them -to raise their right hands, two lifted the right, one the -left, and the other three looked doubtfully at both for -some seconds before raising the right one up. You can -always know when you are on the starboard tack in this -way: Standing at the helm and facing forward, if your -right hand is on the side from which the wind is blowing -you are on the starboard tack. When I was a boy, and -even to-day in an emergency, I always tell my right hand -by thinking which hand I would throw a stone with.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Off the wind:</span></h3> - -<p>When a vessel is sailing off the wind the tack is determined -by the position of the main boom. For instance, -if a schooner or yawl is running wing-a-wing with the -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_108">108</span> -main boom off on the port side she is on the starboard -tack.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Right of way:</span></h3> - -<p>A sailing vessel has the right of way over all steam -or power vessels, except when she is the overtaking craft; -then she must keep out of the way of the vessel overtaken. -A “steam vessel” in the eyes of the law is any -vessel driven by machinery, no matter of what kind or -sort, and includes all gasolene, kerosene and electric -boats. An auxiliary, if using her engine, is a steam -vessel, and must keep clear of sailing craft, no matter -whether she has sail set or not. Sailing craft must keep -clear of rowboats.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Swigging a tackle:</span></h3> - -<p>When taking a swig on a tackle, in order to get a sail -up, especially on the lee side, if the boat is heeling be -careful to get a firm brace of your body or a good leg -hold. Sometimes the pin will fly out, or your turn on the -cleat slip, and you are liable to go overboard backwards.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Reef points:</span></h3> - -<p>The best way is to have the different sets of points -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_109">109</span> -made of different kinds of line. Use cotton for the first -and manila for the second. Then when tying in, especially -in the dark, you will be sure to get the right ends -knotted together.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Peak halyards:</span></h3> - -<p>The hauling part of the peak halyards is usually -brought down and belayed on the starboard side of the -mast. I bring mine down on the port side, for this simple -reason: The terms peak and port begin with the same -letter, and thus it is easy for a green hand to find the -right rope. Frequently a trained hand in a moment of -excitement will let go the wrong halyard, but by remembering -the letter P you are less likely to make the mistake.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Crew and skipper:</span></h3> - -<p>If you are to command, show yourself a leader, not -by talk, but by action. Always be first in everything that -requires skill or courage. Thus you will win your crew’s -respect, and if they respect you they will obey you. -Never send a man to do a task you fear to do yourself. -If there is any danger, lead, and your men will follow; -but you cannot expect men to risk their limbs or lives -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_110">110</span> -to save your vessel if you shrink from the position who -have the most at jeopardy. Don’t put all the hard work -on the crew; do your share of it; also the dirty jobs. If -you are working watch and watch, be sure to be the first -on deck when your watch is called, and don’t leave it, -unless you are sure that the yacht is in safe hands and -that your care and skill is not needed.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Skipper’s duties:</span></h3> - -<p>It is your duty as skipper to know and see everything -that goes on. If you order the lead to be hove see that -it is. See that the lights are attended to and ready. See -that the course is being properly steered. Before turning -in at night inspect your riding gear, likewise when coming -to an anchor. Don’t trust to a report, go and look -at it. See that the pump is used and the vessel kept -clear of water. Make a practice of doing these things -until they become a habit.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Skipper and mate:</span></h3> - -<p>If you have a second in command, and he is a man -who understands his work, if you place him in charge -of the deck don’t be constantly interfering with him. If -he is not competent to take charge of the yacht, he has -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_111">111</span> -no business to be where he is. If you put confidence in -a man, and he is worthy of it, it will strengthen him and -enable him to do better work all along the line.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Standing order to mate:</span></h3> - -<p>My standing order, and one that I always enforce, is -this: When in charge of the boat no reefs are to be -shaken out or extra sail made without my order; but -sail can be taken in or reefed at any time without waiting -to call me.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Crew, discipline:</span></h3> - -<p>In order to insure safety, comfort and good work, you -must enforce a certain amount of discipline upon your -crew. You can only do this by showing that you are -amenable to it. You cannot expect men who are sailing -with you for pleasure to obey orders or respect rules -if you do not obey and respect them yourself. This is the -prime fault with many young skippers. If you shape -your own conduct according to your rules you will find -that your crew, if they are any good, will do likewise. -But do not make foolish rules or issue unnecessary -orders; the less you restrict and domineer the better you -will get along with your hands. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_112">112</span></p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Injury to sails:</span></h3> - -<p>Sails are most often torn or split through carelessness -in tieing in the points when reefing, or not untieing when -shaking out. The first man will tie his points hard, the -second slack, consequently bringing undue strain on one -cloth. All the points should be tied with as nearly equal -strain as possible. Another cause is allowing sails to fall -and lie over pointed things, like oarlocks, anchor stocks -and belaying pins. Somebody steps or hauls on the sail -and the point goes through.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Mending sails:</span></h3> - -<p>If you have a sister, or know somebody else’s sister, -get her to show you how they herringbone or darn a -rent, such as they frequently have in their clothes. This -knowledge will enable you to mend a rent in your sail, -and perhaps save the canvas from being torn to pieces. -A small hole in a sail can be temporarily mended with -court plaster. If the sail rends and starts to split up the -cloth put in a safety pin at top and bottom of tear until -you can get at it with a needle. Always carry a spare -yard or two of canvas when cruising, as it will frequently -come in handy for mending and other purposes. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_113">113</span></p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Knotting and splicing:</span></h3> - -<p>Every young yachtsman should learn to make the simple -knots and splices. Nothing looks worse than to see -on a boat a lot of rigging that is knotted or fastened together -in a lubberly fashion. There is no need of learning -the fancy knots, unless you want to, but you should -know how to make the following knots, etc.:</p> - -<ul><li>Square or reef knot,</li> -<li>Figure eight,</li> -<li>Overhand,</li> -<li>Fisherman’s bend,</li> -<li>Carrick bend,</li> -<li>Clove hitch,</li> -<li>Half and whole hitch,</li> -<li>Bowline,</li> -<li>Bowline-on-a-bight,</li> -<li>Sheet-bend,</li> -<li>Rolling hitch,</li> -<li>Wall and crown,</li> -<li>Sheep-shank,</li> -<li>Short splice,</li> -<li>Sailmaker’s splice,</li> -<li>Cut splice,</li> -<li><span class="pagenum" id="Page_114">114</span></li> -<li>Eye splice,</li> -<li>Whipping, common,</li> -<li>Whipping, Spanish,</li> -<li>Serving,</li> -<li>Mousing,</li> -<li>Plain, stitching,</li> -<li>Herringboning.</li></ul> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Washing down:</span></h3> - -<p>A boat’s deck and cockpit should be thoroughly washed -at least once a day. Nothing looks worse than a dirty -deck. Wooden decks should be washed before the heat -of the day gets on them: Canvas decks can be scrubbed -at any time. If on salt water, always take advantage of -a rain and give your decks a good hard scrubbing to -get the salt off. If you have a crew, teach them to wash -down the first thing every morning, and see that they -do it</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Keeping clean below:</span></h3> - -<p>The first lesson to learn on a yacht, and the first to -teach your crew, is that there is a place for everything, -and that everything must be kept in its place. If they -take anything out to use make them put it back at once -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_115">115</span> -in its place just as soon as they are done with it. Make -every man keep his berth tidy, his clothes put away, and -his bedding properly aired and folded. Teach them not -to throw cigarette butts, tobacco and match sticks on the -floor, and to spit overboard and not on the deck or in -the cockpit. Don’t leave dirty dishes about. Keep your -cabin just as tidy as you do your deck.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Tool box:</span></h3> - -<p>Every yacht should carry a simple kit of tools with -them. You can always make temporary repairs, and -sometimes save yourself expense, worry and toil. Have -a box for them where they can be easily got at. You -don’t want fine tools, as they will soon be ruined by the -dampness. The following is a list of what is necessary -for a cruising boat:</p> - -<ul><li>Hatchet,</li> -<li>Monkey wrench,</li> -<li>Small saw,</li> -<li>Cold chisel,</li> -<li>Brace and bits,</li> -<li>Screw driver,</li> -<li>Marline spike,</li> -<li>Small vice,</li> -<li><span class="pagenum" id="Page_116">116</span></li> -<li>Wire nippers,</li> -<li>Grommet set,</li> -<li>Sail needle,</li> -<li>Sail hook,</li> -<li>Twine,</li> -<li>Wax,</li> -<li>Fid,</li> -<li>Piece of sheet copper,</li> -<li>Piece of sheet lead,</li> -<li>Piece of sheet rubber,</li> -<li>Copper tacks,</li> -<li>Screws,</li> -<li>Nails,</li> -<li>Some galv. iron rod,</li> -<li>Wire,</li> -<li>Screw eyes.</li></ul> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Bos’n stores:</span></h3> - -<p>Don’t have more than two or three sizes of rope in -your rig, if you can help it, and carry a spare coil of a -few fathoms of each. Also, have spare fittings, so if -anything carries away you can replace it. Here is a -short list: -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_117">117</span></p> - -<ul><li>Blocks,</li> -<li>Shackles,</li> -<li>Pins for same,</li> -<li>Cleats,</li> -<li>Rope,</li> -<li>Marline,</li> -<li>Hambroline,</li> -<li>Canvas,</li> -<li>Lacing,</li> -<li>Paint,</li> -<li>Varnish.</li></ul> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Pump:</span></h3> - -<p>Every yacht, no matter of what size, should have a -good pump fitted to draw from the lowest part of the -bilge. If a full-decked cabin boat, have the pump put in -through the deck, and not through the cockpit floor. -Builders like to put it in the latter place, as the work is -easier. In consequence of its being there the dirty water -is pumped into the pit and makes it wet and nasty. In -an open centerboard boat put the pump at the after end -of the trunk and pump into it. Keep the pump well -clean. If you do not use the pump daily, to keep the -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_118">118</span> -leather on the sucker in good condition wrap it about -with an oiled rag. A small portable pump is very useful -to completely dry out the bilges.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Pumping:</span></h3> - -<p>If the boat has a leak, make it a practice to try the -pump every morning before washing down. Keep the -water out of her, so that when she heels down it won’t -run up into the lockers and wet things. A good knockdown -will distribute a few buckets of bilge water around -a cabin in a way to make things damp for weeks to come.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Ballast:</span></h3> - -<p>If you use inside ballast of any kind do not lump it in -heaps along the keel; spread it out as much as possible -over the bottom. It should be spaced in the middle half -of the boat, leaving the ends empty. No rule can be laid -down for placing weight in a boat; you must experiment -and find out how much and where to put it. Remember, -that too much ballast is as bad as too little.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Ballast, kinds of:</span></h3> - -<p>Inside ballast is either lead, iron or stone. There is -no question but what stone is the best ballast, so far as -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_119">119</span> -the effect is concerned, and lead the worst. Lead has the -advantage of being always worth its money, second-hand -lead bringing nearly the same price as new. Old iron is -of little or no value. Lead stows snugly and is clean. -Iron is very dirty, and the rust from it is a nuisance. -The disadvantage of stone is that you cannot secure it. -Inside ballast should be secured so as not to shift in case -the vessel gets on her side. Heavy ballast should rest -on the frame and not on the plank.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Bilges:</span></h3> - -<p>The cause of many yachts smelling below is dirty -bilges. They are never properly cleaned from one season -to the other. Before putting the yacht in commission -the bilges should be thoroughly searched, cleaned and -washed out, all the limbers poked open so as to allow the -water to flow to the pump well. If the boat does not leak -enough to keep her bilges sweet, water should be poured -in at least once a week and pumped out again. Don’t -sweep dirt or other rubbish into the bilge; it is liable to -get into the pump and choke it.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Gasolene pipes:</span></h3> - -<p>To make the joints of pipes carrying gasolene or kerosene -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_120">120</span> -tight use common yellow soap. These pipes if used -to carry either of these fluids to a stove should be frequently -examined, so as to prevent leakage. If gasolene -leaks into the bilge, flood it with water and pump out -before making any light below decks.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Lead line:</span></h3> - -<p>Keep your lead line where it can be instantly laid -hands upon. For a small boat a five-fathom line is long -enough, with an extra five that can be bent on in case of -need. A three-pound lead is plenty heavy enough.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Knife:</span></h3> - -<p>Always keep about your person a sharp knife, so that -you can get hold of it without delay. Many a man has -lost his life for want of a knife. It is best when cruising -to carry a sheath knife, as they are handiest.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Oars:</span></h3> - -<p>Always carry a large oar on deck and a pair of spare -ones for the dingey stowed below. It is also well to have -at least two pair of spare oarlocks on board. -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_121">121</span></p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Lashings and stops:</span></h3> - -<p>Take some 6, 9 and 12-thread manila rope and cut it -into 3, 5 and 8-foot lengths. Put an eye-splice in one -end of each length and whip the other end. These short -pieces are always of the greatest use, and will save much -time and trouble. They can be employed for many purposes, -and are especially handy for gasketing sails.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Standing-by:</span></p> - -<p>It is the duty, and should be the pleasure, of every -yachtsman to stand-by another yacht when in distress, -or in need of any sort of help. It is always best if you see -a boat in a predicament to stand-down to her and offer -your services, even if they are not needed; it will generally -be appreciated as an act of courtesy and good will. -And all yachtsmen should receive such offers in the -spirit in which they are advanced, and not as some do, -if they do not need assistance, give a jeering or discourteous -reply. I have been fairly insulted several times -by skippers because I have offered my aid to get them -out of a predicament, my advances being considered to -be a reflection on their skill and ability. Power-boat -skippers can do much to make yachting pleasant, by -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_122">122</span> -offering a tow to becalmed sail-craft men. The little -attentions do much to establish a feeling of perfect comradeship -that is so essential to the making of a sport.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_122.jpg" alt="" /> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_123">123</span></p> - -<h2 id="INDEX">INDEX</h2> - -<ul class="index"><li class="ifrst i20">PAGE</li> - -<li class="indx">Accidents to men, <a href="#Page_97">97</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Anchor light, <a href="#Page_81">81</a></li> -<li class="isub1">to get a line on a fluke, <a href="#Page_72">72</a></li> -<li class="isub1">to get in a seaway, <a href="#Page_71">71</a></li> -<li class="isub1">to lay out a heavy, <a href="#Page_73">73</a></li> -<li class="isub1">to lay one out, <a href="#Page_73">73</a></li> -<li class="isub1">to raise a heavy, <a href="#Page_74">74</a></li> -<li class="isub1">to sweep an, <a href="#Page_72">72</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Anchors, care of, <a href="#Page_71">71</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Anchored in a current, <a href="#Page_51">51</a></li> -<li class="isub1">in an exposed harbor, <a href="#Page_80">80</a></li> -<li class="isub1">vessels, <a href="#Page_95">95</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Attraction, effect on vessels, <a href="#Page_94">94</a></li> - -<li class="ifrst">Barometers, <a href="#Page_86">86</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Ballast, kinds of, <a href="#Page_118">118</a></li> -<li class="isub1">where to place, <a href="#Page_118">118</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Balloon-jib sheet, to shift a, <a href="#Page_64">64</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Bilges, <a href="#Page_119">119</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Binnacle lights, <a href="#Page_83">83</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Blocks, kind to buy, <a href="#Page_23">23</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Boat’s name, <a href="#Page_19">19</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Bobstay, burst, <a href="#Page_66">66</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Bos’n stores, <a href="#Page_116">116</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Booms, cause of springing, <a href="#Page_22">22</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Burst bobstay, <a href="#Page_66">66</a></li> -<li class="isub1">mainsheet, <a href="#Page_65">65</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Buying a boat, <a href="#Page_13">13</a></li> -<li class="isub1">a boat afloat, <a href="#Page_15">15</a></li> -<li class="isub1">a cruiser, <a href="#Page_14">14</a></li> -<li class="isub1">from fad, <a href="#Page_16">16</a></li> -<li class="isub1">from reason, <a href="#Page_17">17</a></li> -<li class="isub1">out of repair, <a href="#Page_17">17</a></li> -<li class="isub1">a racer, <a href="#Page_14">14</a></li> -<li class="isub1">through a broker, <a href="#Page_18">18</a></li> - -<li class="ifrst">Caught on a lee shore, <a href="#Page_56">56</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Chain, care of, <a href="#Page_80">80</a></li> -<li class="isub1">mooring, <a href="#Page_78">78</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Clubbing, <a href="#Page_48">48</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Coasters, <a href="#Page_95">95</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Coming-to at a dock, <a href="#Page_48">48</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Coils of gear, <a href="#Page_39">39</a> -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_124">124</span></li> - -<li class="indx">Covers, sail, <a href="#Page_38">38</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Crew, discipline, <a href="#Page_111">111</a></li> -<li class="isub1">and skipper, <a href="#Page_109">109</a></li> -<li class="isub1">stations for, <a href="#Page_28">28</a></li> -<li class="isub1">stations for getting underway, <a href="#Page_28">28</a></li> -<li class="isub1">stations for reefing, <a href="#Page_30">30</a></li> -<li class="isub1">stations for setting a spinnaker, <a href="#Page_32">32</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Cruising, <a href="#Page_96">96</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Current, anchored in a, <a href="#Page_57">57</a></li> -<li class="isub1">sailing against, <a href="#Page_49">49</a></li> -<li class="isub1">sailing in a, <a href="#Page_49">49</a></li> -<li class="isub1">sailing in a calm, <a href="#Page_51">51</a></li> - -<li class="ifrst">Dock, coming-to at a, <a href="#Page_48">48</a></li> -<li class="isub1">or pier lying at a, <a href="#Page_48">48</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Downhaul, how to rig a peak, <a href="#Page_40">40</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Dropping a mooring, <a href="#Page_79">79</a></li> - -<li class="ifrst">Gasolene pipes, <a href="#Page_119">119</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Gears, coils of, <a href="#Page_39">39</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Gear, running, <a href="#Page_39">39</a></li> - -<li class="ifrst">Halyards, peak, <a href="#Page_109">109</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Hawsers, care of, <a href="#Page_80">80</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Heaving-to, <a href="#Page_52">52</a></li> - -<li class="indx">High water, <a href="#Page_92">92</a></li> -<li class="isub1">in tide tables, <a href="#Page_93">93</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Hoisting sails, <a href="#Page_36">36</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Hoops, working of, <a href="#Page_23">23</a></li> - -<li class="ifrst">Injury to sails, <a href="#Page_112">112</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Inventory, <a href="#Page_18">18</a></li> - -<li class="ifrst">Jibing a mainsail, <a href="#Page_46">46</a></li> -<li class="isub1">a yawl, <a href="#Page_47">47</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Jib sheets, how to reeve, <a href="#Page_40">40</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Jibs, shifting in heavy weather, <a href="#Page_38">38</a></li> -<li class="isub1">storm, <a href="#Page_38">38</a></li> - -<li class="ifrst">Keeping clean below, <a href="#Page_114">114</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Knife, <a href="#Page_120">120</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Knotting and splicing, <a href="#Page_113">113</a></li> - -<li class="ifrst">Lashing and stops, <a href="#Page_121">121</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Lead-line, to make a, <a href="#Page_98">98</a></li> -<li class="isub1">where to keep, <a href="#Page_120">120</a> -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_125">125</span></li> - -<li class="indx">Leak in scupper-pipe, <a href="#Page_103">103</a></li> -<li class="isub1">to frap a, <a href="#Page_103">103</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Leaks in centerboard boats, <a href="#Page_99">99</a></li> -<li class="isub1">in deck, <a href="#Page_101">101</a></li> -<li class="isub1">in rabbet, <a href="#Page_101">101</a></li> -<li class="isub1">stopping, <a href="#Page_102">102</a></li> -<li class="isub1">in topsides, <a href="#Page_99">99</a></li> -<li class="isub1">where most dangerous, <a href="#Page_98">98</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Lee shores, sailing on, <a href="#Page_53">53</a></li> -<li class="isub1">shore, caught on a, <a href="#Page_53">53</a></li> -<li class="isub5">caught on a, <a href="#Page_56">56</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Light sails, handling, <a href="#Page_30">30</a></li> -<li class="isub1">sheeting, <a href="#Page_60">60</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Light, anchor, <a href="#Page_81">81</a></li> -<li class="isub1">a flare, <a href="#Page_81">81</a></li> -<li class="isub1">stern, <a href="#Page_83">83</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Lights, binnacle, <a href="#Page_83">83</a></li> -<li class="isub1">side, <a href="#Page_83">83</a></li> -<li class="isub1">side, <a href="#Page_104">104</a></li> -<li class="isub1">taking care of, <a href="#Page_81">81</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Log, use of, <a href="#Page_85">85</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Lookout, <a href="#Page_105">105</a></li> -<li class="isub1">reports, <a href="#Page_104">104</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Lying at a dock or pier, <a href="#Page_48">48</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Lying-to, <a href="#Page_52">52</a></li> - -<li class="ifrst">Making a mooring, <a href="#Page_75">75</a></li> -<li class="isub1">to leeward, <a href="#Page_77">77</a></li> -<li class="isub1">a quick run, <a href="#Page_97">97</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Mainsail hoisting on track, <a href="#Page_41">41</a></li> -<li class="isub1">to jibe, <a href="#Page_46">46</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Mainsheet, burst, <a href="#Page_65">65</a></li> -<li class="isub1">to knot a, <a href="#Page_46">46</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Mark, rounding a, <a href="#Page_60">60</a></li> -<li class="isub1">a leeward, <a href="#Page_61">61</a></li> -<li class="isub1">a windward, <a href="#Page_63">63</a></li> -<li class="isub1">with an overlap, <a href="#Page_61">61</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Mast carried away, <a href="#Page_66">66</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Masts, removing, <a href="#Page_21">21</a></li> -<li class="isub1">to remove, <a href="#Page_21">21</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Medicine chest, <a href="#Page_85">85</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Mending sails, <a href="#Page_112">112</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Miss-staying in a seaway, <a href="#Page_54">54</a></li> -<li class="isub1">how to get out of irons, <a href="#Page_54">54</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Mizzen on a yawl, <a href="#Page_57">57</a></li> -<li class="isub1">how to handle, <a href="#Page_57">57</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Mooring, care of, <a href="#Page_79">79</a></li> -<li class="isub1">chain, <a href="#Page_78">78</a></li> -<li class="isub1">dropping a, <a href="#Page_79">79</a></li> -<li class="isub1">how to make a, <a href="#Page_75">75</a></li> -<li class="isub1">hook, how to shape, <a href="#Page_77">77</a></li> -<li class="isub1">making one to leeward, <a href="#Page_77">77</a></li> -<li class="isub1">warp, <a href="#Page_78">78</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Moorings, what weight, <a href="#Page_74">74</a></li> - -<li class="ifrst">Nautical instruments, charts, etc., <a href="#Page_19">19</a></li> - -<li class="ifrst">Oars, <a href="#Page_120">120</a> -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_126">126</span></li> - -<li class="indx">Off the wind, <a href="#Page_107">107</a></li> - -<li class="ifrst">Peak downhaul, <a href="#Page_40">40</a></li> -<li class="isub1">halyards, <a href="#Page_109">109</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Pendants for reefing, <a href="#Page_42">42</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Pump, <a href="#Page_117">117</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Pumping, <a href="#Page_118">118</a></li> - -<li class="ifrst">Reef points, <a href="#Page_108">108</a></li> -<li class="isub1">shaking out a, <a href="#Page_44">44</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Reefing before starting, <a href="#Page_45">45</a></li> -<li class="isub1">not to haul out too hard, <a href="#Page_44">44</a></li> -<li class="isub1">in heavy seaway, <a href="#Page_44">44</a></li> -<li class="isub1">at night, <a href="#Page_41">41</a></li> -<li class="isub1">pendants for, <a href="#Page_42">42</a></li> -<li class="isub1">to practice a crew at, <a href="#Page_41">41</a></li> -<li class="isub1">tacks for, <a href="#Page_42">42</a></li> -<li class="isub1">to belay sheet when, <a href="#Page_42">42</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Rigging, running, <a href="#Page_40">40</a></li> -<li class="isub1">on racing craft, <a href="#Page_22">22</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Right of way, <a href="#Page_108">108</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Run, making a quick, <a href="#Page_96">96</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Running off, to carry a small jib, <a href="#Page_45">45</a></li> -<li class="isub1">gear, <a href="#Page_39">39</a></li> -<li class="isub1">in a seaway, <a href="#Page_45">45</a></li> -<li class="isub1">rigging, <a href="#Page_40">40</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Rounding a mark, <a href="#Page_60">60</a></li> -<li class="isub1">a windward mark, <a href="#Page_63">63</a></li> -<li class="isub1">a mark to leeward, <a href="#Page_60">60</a></li> -<li class="isub1">a mark, with overlap, <a href="#Page_61">61</a></li> - -<li class="ifrst">Sail covers, <a href="#Page_38">38</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Sails, hoisting, <a href="#Page_36">36</a></li> -<li class="isub1">how to treat, <a href="#Page_34">34</a></li> -<li class="isub1">injury to, <a href="#Page_112">112</a></li> -<li class="isub1">measuring for, <a href="#Page_34">34</a></li> -<li class="isub1">mending, <a href="#Page_112">112</a></li> -<li class="isub1">stowing, <a href="#Page_36">36</a></li> -<li class="isub1">to be aired, <a href="#Page_34">34</a></li> -<li class="isub1">to take care of, <a href="#Page_36">36</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Sailing against current, <a href="#Page_49">49</a></li> -<li class="isub1">in a current, <a href="#Page_49">49</a></li> -<li class="isub1">in a seaway, <a href="#Page_56">56</a></li> -<li class="isub3">what sail to carry, <a href="#Page_57">57</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Scupper-pipe leaking, <a href="#Page_103">103</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Sheets, jib, <a href="#Page_40">40</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Sheeting, light sails, <a href="#Page_60">60</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Shore, caught on a lee, <a href="#Page_53">53</a></li> -<li class="isub1">weather, <a href="#Page_53">53</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Shores, lee, <a href="#Page_53">53</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Shifting jibs in heavy weather, <a href="#Page_38">38</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Shroud parting, <a href="#Page_64">64</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Side lights, <a href="#Page_104">104</a></li> -<li class="isub3">lights, <a href="#Page_83">83</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Skipper and mate, <a href="#Page_110">110</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Skipper’s duties, <a href="#Page_110">110</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Spinnaker pole, how to rig for racing, <a href="#Page_24">24</a></li> -<li><span class="pagenum" id="Page_127">127</span></li> - -<li class="indx">Spinnakers, to prepare for hoisting, <a href="#Page_24">24</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Spinnaker to set when rigged with a lift, <a href="#Page_26">26</a></li> -<li class="isub1">to shift from side to side, <a href="#Page_25">25</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Spinnakers, when to use, <a href="#Page_25">25</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Squall, struck by a, <a href="#Page_90">90</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Squalls, <a href="#Page_88">88</a></li> -<li class="isub1">how to meet one, <a href="#Page_89">89</a></li> -<li class="isub1">time of, <a href="#Page_89">89</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Standing-by, <a href="#Page_121">121</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Standing order to mate, <a href="#Page_111">111</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Speed, to judge, <a href="#Page_68">68</a></li> -<li class="isub1">reasons for want of, <a href="#Page_67">67</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Steering a yawl, <a href="#Page_47">47</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Stern light, <a href="#Page_83">83</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Storm jibs, <a href="#Page_38">38</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Stowing sails, <a href="#Page_36">36</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Swigging a tackle, <a href="#Page_108">108</a></li> - -<li class="ifrst">Tacks for reefing, how to fit, <a href="#Page_42">42</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Tack, which, <a href="#Page_106">106</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Tanks, water, <a href="#Page_84">84</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Tide under the lee, <a href="#Page_51">51</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Tides, a knowledge of, <a href="#Page_93">93</a></li> -<li class="isub1">effecting the wind, <a href="#Page_90">90</a></li> -<li class="isub1">time of, <a href="#Page_92">92</a></li> -<li class="isub1">where strongest, <a href="#Page_92">92</a></li> - -<li class="indx">To get an anchor in a seaway, <a href="#Page_71">71</a></li> - -<li class="indx">To lay out an anchor, <a href="#Page_73">73</a></li> - -<li class="indx">To lay out a heavy anchor, <a href="#Page_73">73</a> -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_128">128</span></li> - -<li class="indx">To sweep an anchor, <a href="#Page_72">72</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Tool box, <a href="#Page_115">115</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Towing a heavy boat, <a href="#Page_68">68</a></li> -<li class="isub1">alongside, <a href="#Page_70">70</a></li> -<li class="isub1">making the warp fast, <a href="#Page_70">70</a></li> -<li class="isub1">to tack when, <a href="#Page_70">70</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Trimming a vessel, <a href="#Page_63">63</a></li> - -<li class="indx">To raise a heavy anchor, <a href="#Page_74">74</a></li> - -<li class="ifrst">Vessels underway, <a href="#Page_96">96</a></li> - -<li class="ifrst">Want of speed, <a href="#Page_67">67</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Warp, mooring, <a href="#Page_78">78</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Washing down, <a href="#Page_114">114</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Watch tackle, <a href="#Page_106">106</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Water, cause of sickness, <a href="#Page_84">84</a></li> -<li class="isub1">tanks, <a href="#Page_84">84</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Wearing a yawl, <a href="#Page_46">46</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Weather shore, sailing on, <a href="#Page_53">53</a></li> -<li class="isub1">the study of, <a href="#Page_87">87</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Winds, <a href="#Page_88">88</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Winds, study of, <a href="#Page_87">87</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Working craft and steamers, <a href="#Page_94">94</a></li> -<li class="isub1">forward at night, <a href="#Page_105">105</a></li> -<li class="isub1">to windward, <a href="#Page_58">58</a></li> -<li class="isub1">to windward cruising, <a href="#Page_59">59</a></li> -<li class="isub1">to windward, to get favoring breeze, <a href="#Page_59">59</a></li> - -<li class="ifrst">Yawl, jibing a, <a href="#Page_47">47</a></li> -<li class="isub1">mizzen on a, <a href="#Page_57">57</a></li> -<li class="isub1">steering a, <a href="#Page_47">47</a></li> -<li class="isub1">wearing a, <a href="#Page_46">46</a> -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_129">129</span></li></ul> - -<div class="ad_border"> -<p class="caption super-large" id="THE_RUDDER">THE RUDDER</p> - -<p class="drop"><span class="uppercase">The</span> policy of <span class="smcap">The Rudder</span> is to give to yachtsmen -a thoroughly practical periodical, dealing -with the sport of yachting in all its phases, -and especially to furnish them with the designs -and plans of vessels adapted to their wants -in all localities.</p> - -<blockquote> - -<p>In each issue is a design of a sailing or power craft, and at least four -times a year a complete set of working drawings is given, so that the unskilled -can try a hand at building with a certainty of making a success of -the attempt.</p> - -<p>In the last two years over 500 boats have been built from designs -printed in the magazine, and in almost every case have given satisfaction.</p> - -<p>Outside of the strictly practical, the magazine has always a cargo of -readable things in the way of cruises and tales, while its illustrations are noted -for their novelty and beauty.</p> - 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The chapters on anchors alone is worth more -than the price of the book.</p> - -<p class="caption"><i>Price</i>, <span class="x-large">$1.00</span> <i>postpaid</i> -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_131">131</span></p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p class="ph2">On Yacht Etiquette<br /> - -<span class="medium smcap">By Captain Howard Patterson</span></p> - -<p class="figcenter"><img src="images/i_128.jpg" alt="Illustration" /></p> - -<p>This is the second edition of Captain Patterson’s highly -appreciated work, containing everything in relation to -courtesies, discipline, ceremonies and routine for any -and all circumstances; valuable alike for the owner, -captain and crew.</p> - -<p class="caption"><i>Price</i>, <span class="x-large">$1.00</span> <i>postpaid</i> -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_132">132</span></p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p class="ph2">On Marine Motors and Motor Launches<br /> - -<span class="medium"><span class="smcap">By E. W. Roberts</span>, M. 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Sommerfeldt</td> - <td class="tdr">1.00</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="8">Dry Batteries. By a Dry Battery Expert</td> - <td class="tdr">.25</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="8">Eldredge’s Tide-Book</td> - <td class="tdr">.50</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="8">Elements of Navigation. By Henderson</td> - <td class="tdr">1.00</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="8">Elements of Yacht Design. By Norman L. Skene</td> - <td class="tdr">2.00</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="8">Electrical Circuits and Diagrams. N. H. Schneider</td> - <td class="tdr">.25</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="8">Fore-and-Aft Seamanship</td> - <td class="tdr">.50</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="8">Gas Engine Handbook. By Roberts. 2nd edition</td> - <td class="tdr">1.50</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="8">Gas Engines and Their Troubles</td> - <td class="tdr">1.50</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="8">Gas and Petroleum Engines. By W. Robinson</td> - <td class="tdr">8.00</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="8">Handbook of Naval Gunnery. By Radford</td> - <td class="tdr">2.00</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="p2" colspan="9">RUDDER HOW-TO SERIES SERIES—</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="8" class="i4">How to Build a Racer for $50</td> - <td class="tdr">1.00</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="8" class="i4">How to Build a Skip Jack</td> - <td class="tdr">1.00</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="8" class="i4">How to Build a Racing Sloop</td> - <td class="tdr">1.00</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="8" class="i4">How to Build a Knockabout</td> - <td class="tdr">1.00</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="8" class="i4">How to Build a 3 H. P. Motor</td> - <td class="tdr">2.50</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="8" class="i4">How to Build a Motor Launch</td> - <td class="tdr">1.00</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="8" class="i4">How to Build a Model Yacht</td> - <td class="tdr">1.00</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="8" class="i4">How to Build a Flattie or Sharpie</td> - <td class="tdr">1.00</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="8" class="i4">How to Build a Shoal-Draught Sloop</td> - <td class="tdr">1.00</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="8" class="i4">How to Build a Speed Launch</td> - <td class="tdr">1.00</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="8" class="i4">How to Build a Row Boat</td> - <td class="tdr">1.00</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="8" class="i4">How to Make Knots, Bends and Splices</td> - <td class="tdr">.50</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="8" class="i4">How to Swim. By Capt. Dalton</td> - <td class="tdr">1.00</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="8" class="i4">How to Built a Cruiser</td> - <td class="tdr">1.00 - <span class="pagenum" id="Page_146">146</span></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="8">Hints to Beginners in Amateur Yacht Designing</td> - <td class="tdr">1.00</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="8">Illustrated Coast Pilot. By N. L. Stebbins - <span class="right">$1: by mail</span></td> - <td class="tdr">1.25</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="8">Kedge Anchor. By Patterson</td> - <td class="tdr">1.00</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="8">Knots and Splices. By Capt. Jutsum</td> - <td class="tdr">1.00</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="8">Long Island Sound Yacht Racing Association Rules</td> - <td class="tdr">.25</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="8">Lloyds’ Yacht Register, 1904</td> - <td class="tdr">7.50</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="8">Lucas’ Questions and Answers for Marine Engineers</td> - <td class="tdr">2.00</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="8">Model Engines and Small Boats. By Hopkins</td> - <td class="tdr">1.25</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="8">Masting and Rigging. By Robert Kipping</td> - <td class="tdr">1.00</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="8">Model Yachts. By Grosvenor</td> - <td class="tdr">2.00</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="8">Manual of the Canvas Canoe. By Webb</td> - <td class="tdr">1.25</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="8">Marine Engineers—How to Become One. By E. G. Constantine</td> - <td class="tdr">2.50</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="8">Mechanics’ and Engineers’ Pocketbook. By Charles H. Haswell</td> - <td class="tdr">4.00</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="8">Manual of Yacht and Boat Sailing. By Dixon Kemp</td> - <td class="tdr">12.00</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="8">Modern Seamanship. By Knight</td> - <td class="tdr">6.00</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="8">Mechanical Drawing. By Hawkins</td> - <td class="tdr">2.00</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="8">Motor Rules American Power Boat Association</td> - <td class="tdr">.25</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="8">Modern Practice of Shipbuilding Iron and Steel. By Thearle (2 vols.)</td> - <td class="tdr">5.25</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="8">Navigation for Yachtsmen. By V. J. English, R. N.</td> - <td class="tdr">7.50</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="8">Naval Militiaman’s Guide. By J. H. Barnard</td> - <td class="tdr">1.25</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="8">Navigation Simplified. By C. E. McArthur</td> - <td class="tdr">1.00</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="8">Naval Architecture. A Manual on Laying-Off. By Watson</td> - <td class="tdr">5.00</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="8">Navigation and Nautical Astronomy. By E. L. Richards</td> - <td class="tdr">1.00</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="8">Navigation and Nautical Astronomy. By F. C. Stebbings</td> - <td class="tdr">2.75</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="8">Naval Constructor. By G. Simpson</td> - <td class="tdr">5.00</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="8">Oil Engines. By A. H. Goldingham</td> - <td class="tdr">2.00</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="p2" colspan="9">RUDDER ON SERIES—</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="8" class="i4">On Yachts and Yacht Handling. By T. F. Day</td> - <td class="tdr">1.00</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="8" class="i4">On Marine Motors and Motor Launches. By Roberts</td> - <td class="tdr">1.00</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="8" class="i4">On Yacht Etiquette. By Patterson</td> - <td class="tdr">1.00</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="8" class="i4">On Yacht Sailing - <span class="right">50 cents and</span></td> - <td class="tdr">1.00</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="8" class="i4">Southward by the Inside Route</td> - <td class="tdr">1.00</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="8" class="i4">Hints to Young Yacht Skippers</td> - <td class="tdr">1.00</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="8">Power-Boat Rules</td> - <td class="tdr">.25</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="8">Practical Boatbuilding. By Nelson</td> - <td class="tdr">1.00</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="8">Practical Boat Sailing. By Davies</td> - <td class="tdr">2.00</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="8">Patterson’s Illustrated Nautical Encyclopædia</td> - <td class="tdr">3.00</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="8">Practical Boat Sailing. By Frazar</td> - <td class="tdr">1.00</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="8">Practical Shipbuilding. By A. C. Holmes</td> - <td class="tdr">16.00</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="8">Practical Seamanship. By Todd & Whall</td> - <td class="tdr">8.00</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="8">Questions and Answers on the Rules of the Road</td> - <td class="tdr">.25</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="8">Rules, etc., Yacht Racing Association of Long Island Sound</td> - <td class="tdr">.25</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="8">Rules and Regulations for Construction of Yachts, Lloyds</td> - <td class="tdr">2.00</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="8">Supplements to Small Yachts. By Stephens</td> - <td class="tdr">4.00</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="8">Sails and Sailmaking</td> - <td class="tdr">1.25</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="8">Self-Instruction in the Practice and Theory of Navigation. By the Earl of Dunraven</td> - <td class="tdr">7.00</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="8">Ships and Boats. By William Bland</td> - <td class="tdr">1.00</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="8">Small Boat Sailing. By Knight</td> - <td class="tdr">1.50</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="8">Small Yacht Construction and Rigging. By Linton Hope</td> - <td class="tdr">3.00</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="8">Steam Yachts and Launches. By Kunhardt</td> - <td class="tdr">3.00</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="8">Stebbins’ Coast Pilot - <span class="right">$1.00; by mail</span></td> - <td class="tdr">1.25 - <span class="pagenum" id="Page_147">147</span></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="8">Small Accumulators. By Marshall</td> - <td class="tdr">.50</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="8">Simple Elements of Navigation. By Young</td> - <td class="tdr">2.50</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="8">Study of Electricity. By Schneider</td> - <td class="tdr">.25</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="8">Southward by the Inside Route</td> - <td class="tdr">1.00</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="8">Signalling International Code Signals</td> - <td class="tdr">.50</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="8">Scott’s Coast Pilot for the Lakes</td> - <td class="tdr">1.50</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="8">Star Atlas. Brown’s</td> - <td class="tdr">1.50</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="8">Theoretical Naval Architecture. By Atwood</td> - <td class="tdr">2.50</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="8">The Sailors’ Pocketbook. Admiral Bedford</td> - <td class="tdr">4.00</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="8">The Nation’s Navy. By Morris</td> - <td class="tdr">1.50</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="8">Torpedoes and Torpedo Vessels. By Lieut. G. E. Armstrong</td> - <td class="tdr">1.50</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="8">The Pilot and How to do the Work. By Pugsly</td> - <td class="tdr">1.00</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="8">The Practical Engineer. Pocketbook</td> - <td class="tdr">1.00</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="8">The Professor on Shipboard</td> - <td class="tdr">1.00</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="8">The Yachting Record of Long Island Sound for 1900 and 1901 - <span class="right">each</span></td> - <td class="tdr">1.00</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="8">The Yachtsman’s Kedge Anchor</td> - <td class="tdr">1.00</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="8">Tables for Constructing Ships’ Lines. By Hogg</td> - <td class="tdr">2.00</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="8">The Sailors’ Hand Book. By Admiral Bedford</td> - <td class="tdr">3.50</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="p2" colspan="9">THE RUDDER—</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td style="width: 8em" class="i4">Monthly, a year,</td> - <td colspan="7"></td> - <td class="tdr">2.00</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="i4 tdc">“</td> - <td colspan="7">flat</td> - <td class="tdr">2.50</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="8" class="i4">Bound volume, 1896, 1897, 1898, 1899, 1900 - <span class="right">each</span></td> - <td class="tdr"> 5.00</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="i4 tdc">“</td> - <td colspan="7">1901, 1902, 1903 - <span class="right">each</span></td> - <td class="tdr">3.50</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="i4 tdc">“</td> - <td colspan="7">three complete sets, 1891 to 1903, 13 vols., set</td> - <td class="tdr">100.00</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="8">The Yachtsman Guide Nautical Calendar</td> - <td class="tdr">1.00</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="8">The Sailors’ Handy Ready-Reference Book. By F. D. G. Bedford</td> - <td class="tdr">1.00</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="8">The Sextant. By F. R. Brainard</td> - <td class="tdr">.50</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="8">The Nautical Magazine - <span class="right">per copy 35c.; a year</span></td> - <td class="tdr">3.50</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="8">Technical Dictionary of Sea Terms, Phrases and Words. By Pirrie</td> - <td class="tdr">2.50</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="8">Technology of Paint and Varnish. By Savin</td> - <td class="tdr">3.00</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="8">The Houseboat Book</td> - <td class="tdr">1.00</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="p2" colspan="9">RUDDER WHAT-TO SERIES—</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="i4" colspan="8">The Cat Book</td> - <td class="tdr">1.00</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="i4" colspan="8">The Racer Book</td> - <td class="tdr">1.00</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="i4" colspan="8">The Schooner Book</td> - <td class="tdr">1.00</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="i4" colspan="8">The Yawl Book</td> - <td class="tdr">1.00</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="i4" colspan="8">The Cabin Plan Book</td> - <td class="tdr">1.00</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="8">Uses of Electricity on Shipboard. By J. W. Kellogg</td> - <td class="tdr">1.00</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="8">Vest-Pocket Launching Guide, 1904</td> - <td class="tdr">.25</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="8">Water’s Pocket Tide Calendar, 1904</td> - <td class="tdr">.15</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="8">Yacht Architecture. By Dixon Kemp</td> - <td class="tdr">16.80</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="8">Yacht Sails. By Patterson</td> - <td class="tdr">1.00</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="8">Yacht Design, Elements of. By N. L. Skene</td> - <td class="tdr">2.00</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="8">Year Book American Power Boat Association</td> - <td class="tdr">.25</td> - </tr> -</table> - -<p><i>Any of the above sent by express in the United States or Canada -on receipt of price. Send postal for complete catalogue.</i></p> - -<p>HOW TO REMIT: The cheapest way is to send post-office or -express money order, payable to THE RUDDER PUBLISHING COMPANY. -If bank check is more convenient, include 10 cents for bank -exchange; if postage stamps or bills, letter must be REGISTERED, -OTHERWISE AT SENDER’S RISK.</p> - -<p class="copy">The Rudder Publishing Co., 9 Murray Street, N. Y.</p> - -<div class="transnote"> - -<h3 class="caption">Transcriber'sNote"</h3> - -<p>Inconsistent spelling and hyphenation are as in the original.</p> -</div> - - - - - - - - -<pre> - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Hints to Young Yacht Skippers, by -Thomas Fleming Day - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HINTS TO YOUNG YACHT SKIPPERS *** - -***** This file should be named 52324-h.htm or 52324-h.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/5/2/3/2/52324/ - -Produced by Chris Curnow, Wayne Hammond and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive) - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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