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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d7b82bc --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,4 @@ +*.txt text eol=lf +*.htm text eol=lf +*.html text eol=lf +*.md text eol=lf diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6312041 --- /dev/null +++ b/LICENSE.txt @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements, +metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be +in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES. + +Procedures for determining public domain status are described in +the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org. + +No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in +jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize +this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright +status under the laws that apply to them. diff --git a/README.md b/README.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d7710ad --- /dev/null +++ b/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,2 @@ +Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for +eBook #52345 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/52345) diff --git a/old/52345-0.txt b/old/52345-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 709b6ca..0000000 --- a/old/52345-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,1989 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Scott Country, by John Geddie - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - -Title: The Scott Country - Beautiful Scotland - -Author: John Geddie - -Illustrator: Ernest William Haslehust - -Release Date: June 15, 2016 [EBook #52345] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE SCOTT COUNTRY *** - - - - -Produced by Stephen Hutcheson, Dave Morgan and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net - - - - - - - [Illustration: NEWARK TOWER] - - - - - THE - SCOTT COUNTRY - - - Described by John Geddie - Painted by E. W. Haslehust, R.B.A. - - [Illustration: (uncaptioned)] - - BLACKIE & SON LIMITED - LONDON AND GLASGOW - - Blackie & Son Limited - _50 Old Bailey, London_ - _17 Stanhope Street, Glasgow_ - - Blackie & Son (India) Limited - _Warwick House, Fort Street, Bombay_ - - Blackie & Son (Canada) Limited - _Toronto_ - - - - - BEAUTIFUL ENGLAND - - - The Heart of London. - Dartmoor. - Canterbury. - Oxford. - Bath and Wells. - In London’s By-ways. - The Peak District. - Winchester. - The Thames. - The Cornish Riviera. - Shakespeare-land. - Cambridge. - York. - The English Lakes. - - BEAUTIFUL SCOTLAND - - - Loch Lomond and the Trossachs. - Edinburgh. - The Scott Country. - The Shores of Fife. - - - _Printed in Great Britain by Blackie & Son, Ltd., Glasgow_ - - - - - LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS - - - Facing Page - Newark Tower _Frontispiece_ - Kelso Bridge 5 - Smailholm Tower 12 - Roxburgh Castle 16 - Branxholm Tower 21 - Dryburgh Abbey 28 - Bemersyde House 33 - Melrose Abbey 37 - Abbotsford 44 - Traquair House 48 - Ashestiel House 55 - Neidpath Castle 62 - - [Illustration: KELSO: THE RIVER TWEED AND ABBEY RUINS] - - - - - THE SCOTT COUNTRY - - - [Illustration: THE SCOTT COUNTRY] - -Where—and what—is the “Scott Country”? Edinburgh—his birthplace, the -centre of his literary and legal activities, the scene of _The Heart of -Midlothian_ and of the _Chronicles of the Canongate_, his “own romantic -town”—might surely claim to enclose, if not the kernel, an essential -part of the interest that surrounds the fame and the name of Sir Walter. -Around it, between the Pentlands and Lammermoors and the sea, is -territory immortally associated with the life and the works of the -“Master of Romance”—Lasswade and Roslin, Borthwick and Crichton, “Goblin -Ha’” and Prestonpans, - - “Auchendinny’s hazel glade - And haunted Woodhouselee”, - -Linlithgow Palace on the western and “Wolfs Crag” on the eastern -boundary of Lothian. Fife, on the strength of its possessions of -Dunfermline, Falkland, St. Andrews, and other storied sites, might put -forward a title to be ranked as a province of the Scott Country. So -might Perthshire, by virtue of the “Fair City” and its “Fair Maid”, and -joint ownership, with Stirling and Dumbarton, of entrancing scenes on -Loch Katrine, Loch Ard, and Loch Lomond. Forfarshire also, wherein is -placed the best remembered of the passages in _The Antiquary_, and even -the distant Orkneys and Shetlands, have felt the touch of the Wizard’s -wand. - -Nor, in the briefest survey of the lands of Scott Romance, can one -overlook the crumbling castles and the rugged shores once ruled by the -“Lord of the Isles”; or the banks of the Clyde and Douglas Water; or the -opposing shores of the Solway; or Redesdale and Teesdale, Gilsland and -Triermain. The Peak District, Sherwood Forest, and the Marches of Wales; -Kenilworth, and Woodstock, and even London streets themselves might -tender a case for inclusion; while, looking farther afield, one is -reminded that the genius of Walter Scott has cast its spell over the -Ardennes and Touraine, Switzerland, Constantinople, and the Palestine of -the Crusades. - -These are, for the most part, merely excursions of a spirit whose -abiding home or favourite haunt was the Valley of the Tweed and its -encircling hills. Edinburgh itself, where there are so many rival -memories, does not recall the author of _Waverley_ so instantly and -intimately to our thoughts and affections as Abbotsford; and the triple -Eildon, rather than Arthur’s Seat, is the “high place” of the Scott -cult. If he brought a new glory to the Border Country, it was the Border -Country that “made him”, as a man still more than as a writer; and he is -the most typical, as he is the most honoured, of its many famous sons. - -The greatest as well as - - “The last of all the Bards was he - Who sung of Border chivalry”. - -The pull of the blood has in this instance proved more potent than that -of birth and early environment; although Walter Scott was from his -childhood, at Sandyknowe and Kelso, familiar with Border scenes, as well -as steeped in Border lore. At a later stage in his growth, lame as he -was, with Shortreed and other congenial companions he tramped the glens -and climbed the hills and hill-passes of Tweedside, gathering and -storing as he went its history and romance for the delight of future -generations, - - “Giving each rock its storied tale, - Pouring a lay for every dale, - Knitting, as with a moral band, - His native legends with his land, - To lend each scene the interest high - Which Genius beams from Beauty’s eye.” - -But while he knew by heart the whole Borderland, and had explored its -chief river from where - - “Tweed, Annan, and Clyde - A’ rise in ae hill-side”, - -to where it enters the sea, under the time- and war-battered walls of -the ancient town of Berwick, there were parts of the Tweed and its -tributaries that he knew better than others. There is, in the eyes of -Scott devotees, an Inner Circle, a “Holy of Holies”, of the Scott -Country, and, fortunately for the pilgrim to these shrines, its centre -lies where the main lines of road and rail, like those of -river-drainage, converge around the meeting-place of Ettrick, Gala, and -Leader with Tweed—under the shadow of the Eildon Hills and beside those -two “miraculous” products of the hand and brain of man—Melrose Abbey and -Abbotsford House. The creative art, in prose and verse, of the Great -Magician was not often exercised on the chief stream higher up than -Neidpath and Manor, or, at farthest, “Merlin’s Grave”, beside -Drummelzier and under Tinnis. Nor did his genius much frequent the lower -courses of Tweed, below Kelso Bridge and Wark Castle, and the inflow of -the “sullen Till”, although here also are many scenes of beauty and -pages of story that might well have set his imagination afire. It seems -more at home, also, in the valleys of the Teviot, the Ettrick, and the -Yarrow than on the Leader, the Gala, and other northern affluents of the -Tweed. Accident and propinquity may have helped to determine his choice -of scene and theme; but old associations and affinities may have done -still more. The nearer the Border line of the Cheviots, the thicker are -footprints of the clan and national frays of old—of battles and -skirmishes in which Scott’s own ancestry took more than their share; and -the deeper and richer the soil of tradition in which he delighted to -delve. To the Teviot, the Borthwick, and the Ettrick—to Branxholm and -Harden, Rankleburn and Newark—he was drawn by the call of the blood of -his father’s race; an equal tie bound him to the Jed, the old home of -his mother’s kin, the “hot and hardy Rutherfords”; while Yarrow, the -heart of his Forest Sheriffdom, is also the core of its ballad poetry. -It has to be remembered, also, that the period of Scott’s greatest -literary output was also the period of failing physical powers, and that -journeys through his beloved Borderland had to be more and more -circumscribed to beaten paths of easy access. - -It was by Kelso Bridge, beside where the wand of the Wizard Michael -Scott “bridled the Tweed with a curb of stone”, that, in the fresh -morning of youth, the spell of the great Border river first fell on -Walter Scott. His kinsfolk lived in the neighbourhood; and several of -them are buried in the Abbey Aisle. His great-grandfather and namesake, -the Jacobite “Beardie” who had fought at Killiecrankie, had occupied a -house in the Coalmarket; his kindly Aunt Janet resided in what is now -called Waverley Lodge; his uncle, Captain Robert Scott, a lover and -collecter of books, had his home at Rosebank, which he bequeathed to Sir -Walter, who—“his poverty not his will consenting”—sold this house of -many memories, along with “thirty acres of the most fertile land in -Scotland”. - -Only a few miles away, beside the stark and far-seen old keep of -Smailholm, was the farm of Sandyknowe, leased from Scott of Harden by -his grandfather Robert Scott, to which, between the ages of three and -eleven, the little boy from Edinburgh came annually for holidays. -Everyone remembers the lines that record the impression made on his -youthful mind by his “barren scene and wild”—by the tall, grey, -weather-beaten tower looking down from its rock upon the lone lochan, -and out and away over many scenes of Border romance to “the distant -Cheviots blue”; and of the legends of foray and strife that were told in -the boy’s wondering ears by the “aged hind”, and that took shape -afterwards in “The Eve of St. John” and other tales of the Master. - -What more natural than that young Walter, “become rather delicate from -overgrowth” and threatened with permanent lameness, should be sent, -while twelve or thirteen years of age, to his Kelso relatives for -change, outdoor freedom, and recruitment? He went to the Grammar School -as pupil, and even for a time as usher, under the Rector, Lancelot -Whale, from whom are drawn some of the traits of “Dominie Sampson”. He -delighted his master by his recitation of the “Speech of Galgacus”, and -beguiled his school companions from their lessons by his tales of old -romance. He read, in the arbour of his aunt’s old-fashioned garden, or -under the ancient elm that still survives, Bishop Percy’s _Reliques_, -the identical copy of which is in Kelso Library. Among his fellow-pupils -were the Ballantynes, James and John, a fateful conjunction, for out of -a hint dropped in a talk with the elder of these old schoolmates grew -the _Scottish Border Minstrelsy_—the first two volumes of which were the -earliest issued from the Kelso “Ballantyne Press”, in 1802—and much else -of note in Scott’s career and fortunes. A biographer may well say that -it was “here he began to gather up his intellectual gains and make his -friendly conquests”. Kelso gave bent and direction to his genius. - -Like Smailholm, Kelso was “meet nurse for a poetic child”, for here join -two “superb rivers”—Tweed and Teviot—each bringing down, from a hundred -sources, its treasure of ancient story. As we have said, the beauty and -romance of Tweedside do not begin in this neighbourhood. They are the -endowment of the main stream from its tap-root to the sea. -Berwick-upon-Tweed, for centuries a cause of contention between the -Kingdoms, was at one time regarded as separate and apart from -each—“England, Scotland, and the town of Berwick-upon-Tweed”. Since the -fifteenth century, however, it has territorially belonged to England, -although situated on the north bank of the river. Its Edwardian and -Elizabethan walls—the former recently placed, along with the venerable -Bell Tower, the symbol of Berwick Liberties, under the protection of the -Board of Works as a national relic and for preservation against the -attacks of vandalism—enfold a sheaf of history. Few places have been the -scenes of more furious sieges and merciless captures. Its bridge of -fifteen arches, built before the Civil Wars and upheld for centuries -from State funds, connects the town with Tweedmouth and Spittal to the -south, although it is of small account, as a bond of union and means of -traffic, compared with its upstream neighbour, the Royal Border Bridge, -which carries the railway lines between England and Scotland. - - [Illustration: SMAILHOLM TOWER] - -A mile or two higher up, but still into tide-water, flows in the -Whitadder, which with its tributary, the Blackadder, comes out of the -recesses of the Lammermoors to drain the fertile Merse, passing on its -way many scenes that must have tempted Sir Walter to make its valley the -stage of one of his romances. His fancy may have played with the idea. -But beyond an occasional allusion, or the dispatch of one or two of his -characters through it, in hot haste for some other arena of action, he -never specifically annexed this heritage of the Humes and earlier Lords -of Dunbar and Merse to the “Scott Country”, though some have attempted -to identify Cranshaws Castle or Wedderlie with Ravenswood. Wedderburn -recalls the “Seven Spears”. Polwarth and Marchmont, Ninewells and -Nisbet, Kimmerghame and Langton, Edrington and Hutton, Chirnside and -Bunkle, Duns and Greenlaw, are names steeped in the spirit of Border -poetry as well as noted in local and national annals. The valleys in -which lie Abbey St. Bathans, on the Whitadder, Priestlaw, on the Faseny, -and Longformacus, on the Dye, seem to beckon for an interpreter of their -almost forgotten stories; while that of the mysterious “Edinhall”, on -Cockburn Law, the largest and most southerly of Scottish “brochs”, is -wholly lost. At Ellemford, James IV was brought to a halt, in the futile -“Raid of Ellem”; and his descendant Charles I came to a turning-point in -his fortunes when he was faced by the Covenanting Host, encamped on Duns -Law. From Haliburton, hard by the “Blackadder Rings”, Scott derived one -line of his descent. Yet this region of the Merse serves at most only as -a background in his Border Romance. - -Higher up the main stream, beyond Paxton, and Horncliffe, and Horndean, -one comes to Ladykirk, whose fine old sixteenth-century church is said -to have been founded and dedicated to the Virgin in gratitude for an -escape from drowning in the Tweed. Behind it is Swinton, the home of an -ancient and knightly family from which Sir Walter was descended, on his -mother’s side. Over against it are the “castled steep” and “flanking -walls” of Norham, the guardian of England and of the heritage of the -Prince-Bishops of Durham, to the siege of which “Mons Meg” has travelled -in her day—the scene, too, of quarrels and of conferences, at one of -which Edward I decided between the rival claims of the “Competitors” for -the Crown of Scotland. - -At Tillmouth and Twizell Castle, where the Till brings down waters—Glen -and Bowmount, Breamish and College—drawn from both skirts of Cheviot, -one is close to ground yet more closely bound to the tragedy of the -Kingdoms and to the genius of Scott, for near here is Ford Castle, where -the Scottish King is supposed to have dallied too long with Lady Heron; -the bridge across which he allowed the English van to cross and attack -him on flank; and the hill-slope of Flodden, down which, in 1513, - - “From his mountain home - King James did rushing come”— - -to meet disaster half-way, and to fall in the midst of the flower of his -nobles and of his kingdom. - -At Coldstream, Longshanks crossed the Tweed on the fatal enterprise of -invading and subduing Scotland; Leslie, on his way to join Cromwell at -Marston Moor, and Monk on the march to proclaim Charles II in London. -Wark Castle, in which, according to tradition, the Order of the Garter -was instituted—with Carham beside it, where, at a much more distant -date, a generation before Macbeth, Malcolm II, King of Scots, won a -victory that brought the boundary of his realm in permanence to the -Tweed—stands within easy reach of Kelso. So also, on the opposite or -Scottish bank, does Birgham, the soil on which William the Lion and the -Scots prelates disowned the supremacy of the English Church, and where -was signed the Treaty for that projected marriage of the heirs of the -two Kingdoms—Prince Edward and the Maid of Norway—which, but for evil -chance, might have united them without the intervention of three -centuries of desolating war. - -But it is at Kelso Bridge, below the meeting of Tweed and Teviot, that -we come fully within the circle of the Magician’s charm—where every -stream and wood and glen seems to take light and colour from the -imagination of Walter Scott. The scene has been admired and praised by a -host of poets and travellers before and since his time. Burns looked -down upon it from different points of view and owned himself -“enchanted”. It has been extolled by, among others, James Thomson, of -the _Seasons_, who was born at Ednam Manse on the Eden Water, only two -or three miles away, and by Thomas Pringle, Scott’s fellow-pupil at -Kelso and the first editor of _Blackwood_, who sang, from the South -African veld, of “Bonnie Teviotdale and Teviot’s mountains blue”. The -parent river makes a wide sweep, and, with its bold wooded banks, seems -to embrace and protect the houses of the little market town, in the -midst of which rise the ruined western towers and a fragment of the nave -of the renowned Tyronesian Abbey. The place, standing so perilously near -the English border, was guarded on the south and on the north by two -great strongholds. Of Roxburgh or Marchmont Castle, on the narrow ridge -between Tweed and Teviot, only a few walls, rising a few yards above the -sod, remain. Its history would fill a volume. But one remembers chiefly -that James II of Scots—he of the “Fiery Face”—was killed by the -explosion of a cannon, while directing attack upon it from the farther -bank of the Tweed, leaving the country, as was so often its fortune -under the Stewart Dynasty, to the hazards of a long minority. On the -town of Roxburgh—which once, as one of the “Four Burghs”, was a leader -in the path of municipal and commercial progress—a more sweeping fate -has descended; not a stone has been left above another on a site upon -which for long was held “St. James’s Lammas Fair”. - - [Illustration: ROXBURGH CASTLE] - -Hume Castle, Kelso’s other bulwark—or, if it happened to be in the hands -of an enemy, its thorn in the flesh—stands on high ground to the north, -where its square-set form, now reduced to a shell, can be seen from all -parts of the ground that lies between the Lammermoor and Cheviot. But -the town had strength within itself in its great Norman Abbey Church, -built for purposes of war as well as of prayer. It was founded by that -zealous abbey- and cathedral-rearer, David I, the son of Canmore and of -Saint Margaret; and its head, as a mitred abbot who acknowledged only -the jurisdiction of the Holy See, held a position that gave him a -precedence, much envied and much resented, over the superiors of the -neighbouring religious houses of Jedburgh, Dryburgh, and Melrose. It was -endowed with rich benefices and wide territories, but its wealth and -glory all vanished in the storms of the Reformation, or, more ruthless -still, of the English invasions and the Civil Wars. - -A large part of the Abbey heritage has passed to the Kers, of the ducal -house of Roxburghe, whose stately seat, Floors Castle, planned by -Vanbrugh and completed by Playfair, commands from its terraces one of -the widest and loveliest views upon Tweed. Of the Kers of Cessford, who -had feuds with the rival branch of the Kerrs of Ferniehirst, as well as -with the Scotts and other neighbours, it has been said that they had a -genius for fighting on the winning side: “When the power of the -Douglases on the Border began to crumble, they became Crown vassals, and -their fortunes mounted rapidly. They won new lands, and held, and still -hold, the old. They kept a hawk’s eye on the wild tracts of moor and -pasture and peat bog, where even in the old days of foray there was, as -Dandie Dinmont said, ‘mair stabling for horses than change-houses for -men’, and where now all is utterly abandoned to the curlew and the -sheep. But they moved their household gods, and extended their bounds, -from the Bowmont to the Kale, from the Kale to the Teviot, and finally -from the Teviot to the Tweed.” Their ruined castle of Cessford stands in -a lonely place, on a slope overhanging a little side-glen of the Kale -Water, some eight miles from Floors. The roof is gone, and all about is -bare and deserted. A few sapling ashes grow in the crannies of the -stone, but time has riven the thick walls which Surrey, in 1523, found -so hard to breach, and has thrown down the grand old Crow Tree that -stood so long beside Habbie Ker’s stronghold. Long before this the -family had flitted to a warmer nest, and had feathered it with the -spoils of Old Roxburgh Castle and of Kelso Abbey. - -Scarcely less than Melrose and Abbotsford are Kelso and Floors the -centre of a sanctuary of Border romance; and over the scene the forms of -Hume Castle and Smailholm Tower seem to keep sentry-watch and to “shift -places mysteriously, like the triple heads of the weird Eildons, as if -they were pacing guard upon the hilltops”. In the setting of the picture -revealed from these vantage-grounds are—along with places already -noted—the hanging woods of Stichell and Newtondon; Nenthorn, Hendersyde, -Mellerstain, Makerstoun; beyond Teviot, the rich woodlands of -Springwood, Woodendean, and Sunlaws; the darker pine trees around the -hunting seat of Bowmont Forest; the folds in which lie the “Gypsy -capital” of Kirk Yetholm, the ancient Kirk of Linton, Eckford of the -Douglases and Crailing of the Cranstons; the hills of Hounam and -Morebattle; and, behind all, the soft blue line, rising high in Great -Cheviot and sinking away towards the west, of the chain that divides the -kingdoms, with peeps here and there of Haddon Rig, and Ruberslaw, and -Dunion, and Minto Crags, and Penielheugh, crowned by its Waterloo -monument, with other scarce less famous Border heights. - -While, above the junction, the ascending valley of the Tweed holds its -way westwards, so that the water-sheds of its northern tributaries are -in common with those of streams flowing to the Forth and the Clyde, -Teviotdale keeps throughout a line that is parallel with the Marches of -the Kingdoms, from which its main channel is nowhere more than a dozen -miles away as the crow flies. It follows that there is more of hazard, -and with this more of romance, crowded into its annals than perhaps into -those of any other area of like extent. It is sprinkled over with -battlefields and with peel towers, most of them now in ruin; every dale -has been the scene of a fray, and every burn has a song or ballad tacked -to its name. These Middle and West Marches were a centre of power and -action, first of the House of Douglas, and then of the “Bauld -Buccleuch”. The “Good Sir James of Douglas” kept the peace of this -troubled frontier for the Bruce; his son, the “Knight of Liddesdale”, -expelled the English from Teviotdale, and was killed while hunting in -Ettrick Forest; his grandson, the first of the Douglas Earls, also -chased out the invaders and brought back spoils from the English side; -his great-grandson, the second Earl, captured Percy’s pennon at -Newcastle, and was slain at Otterburn, while riding home by the road of -Redesdale and the Carter Bar with his prey; while it is of a later -descendant, “Earl Tineman”, captured at Shrewsbury by a later Hotspur, -that the canny saying is quoted in _The Fortunes of Nigel_: “Poortith -(poverty) takes away pith, and the man sits full still who has a rent in -his breeks”. - - [Illustration: BRANXHOLM TOWER] - -A Scott of Buccleuch accompanied James V when he hanged Johnnie -Armstrong of Gilnockie and all his company at Carlenrig near Teviothead; -and the “rank reiver’s” reproach, given in one version of the ballad, -was not without edge: - - “Now haud your tongue, Sir Walter Scott, - Nor speak o’ reif and felonie; - If ilka man had his ain coo, - A richt poor clan your name would be.” - -It was from Branxholm, on the Teviot above Hawick, that another Scott of -the name—generation after generation were Walters—rode forth to rescue -“Kinmont Willie” from prison in Carlisle. The Minstrel’s tale, in the -_Lay_, opens at and returns again and again to Branxholm Ha’; it was at -the Tower Inn, at Hawick, where the Duchess Anne of Buccleuch and -Monmouth held her receptions, and that the greatest of all the Sir -Walters parted from his guests the Wordsworths. - -It is a land dedicated to the achievements of Douglases and Scotts, but -that resounds also with the deeds of Elliots and Armstrongs, and of -minor and broken clans, Turnbulls and Rutherfords, Cranstouns and -Olivers. It has its rich endowment of beauty as well as of history. -Around the keep of Branxholm, which from the deep bank overhanging the -stream has often defied its enemies, have gathered buildings of more -recent date and a screen of ancient trees. Below it is the Tower of -Goldilands, where a marauding Scott was hanged at his own gate, and here -comes in from the left the Borthwick Water. As Leyden has it: - - “Where Bortha hoarse, that loads the meads with sand, - Rolls her red tide to Teviot’s western strand, - Through slaty hills, whose sides are shagged with thorn, - And springs in scattered tufts the dark-green corn, - Towers wood-girt Harden, far above the vale”— - -Harden, the cradle of the branch of the Scotts from which the author of -the _Lay_ was descended; the “mountain home”, hidden in its narrow glen, -to which the “Flower of Yarrow” was brought by “Auld Wat”—“a wide -domain, and rich, had purple heath been grain”. - -At the town of Hawick, Teviot meets Slitrig, coming from the wild bounds -of Liddisdale. All roads in Teviotdale seem to lead to Hawick, the -capital of its trade as well as a centre of its history. Proud as its -citizens are of the leading position of the burgh in the tweed and -hosiery manufacture of the South of Scotland, and of the undiminished -importance of its great lamb and sheep fairs, they are prouder still of -the prowess of its sons in the dark days that followed Flodden, and in -other scenes of Border strife. Scott was familiar with its story, as -with the streets and with the steep hills that surround this stirring -little metropolis of industrial and pastoral life; and allusion has -already been made to the literary and legendary memories attached to the -site of the Tower in which the Douglases of Drumlanrig entertained their -guests and protected their rights. From the parish church of St. Mary, -since often rebuilt, the heroic Ramsay of Dalhousie was carried away by -the Knight of Liddisdale, to be immured and to suffer a lingering death -in the Douglas hold of Hermitage— - - “Did ever knight so foul a deed?” - -An older memorial of the past of Hawick is the Motehill, on which -justice was dispensed, and an outlook kept for enemies, in times beyond -the range even of tradition. The great “Hawick Tradition” of the capture -of the standard of the English marauders at Hornshole is kept green by -the annual ceremony of the “Common Riding”, when Hawick is to be seen in -its gayest and most jubilant mood. The words and tune of its slogan of -“Teribus ye Teriodin” are supposed to have descended to it from heathen -times, and to have originally been an invocation to the gods of the -early Saxons and Norsemen—Thor and Odin. The defiant spirit of these -warriors of old seems still to ring in the chaunt sung by the Cornet and -his men as they ride round the marches in the beginning of June: - - “Teribus ye Teriodin, - Sons of heroes slain at Flodden, - Imitating Border Bowmen, - Aye defend your rights and Common.” - -A few miles up the Slitrig is Stobs Castle, an ancient seat of the -Elliots, which became a military centre during the Great European War; -and there are many other places of note and fame on the once hazardous -way, now followed by the railway, that leads across the hills to the -head-streams of the Liddel and thence to those of the North Tyne, or to -the “Debatable Land”, the Solway, and Carlisle. Another crowd of warlike -memories and of pastoral and woodland charms awaits those who, from -Hawick, or from the old Douglas seat of Cavers, lower down Teviotdale, -explore the Hobkirk valley, or pass over the skirts of Ruberslaw into -Rule Water—to Bonchester and to Hobkirk, where Thomson planned his -_Seasons_, and to Southdean, where the poet spent his early years, and -to the Carter Bar and the Border. - -A few miles below Hawick, past Hornshole and past Denholm, the -birthplace of John Leyden—the poet, the Oriental scholar, the friend of -Scott, whose “brief and bright career” closed too soon in the Malay -East—below “dark Ruberslaw” and the Dunion, which interposes its -round-backed form between the “mining Rule” and the “crystal Jed”, and -more directly under the Minto Crags and the Chesters moors, lies one of -the loveliest bits on Teviot. Haughs and dells, green hills and wide -sweeps of river spread around the fragments of Fatlips Castle, whose -owner, a Turnbull, dwelt - - “Mid cliffs from whence his eagle eye - Full many a league his prey could spy”; - -and around Minto House, the home, since the Union, of the Elliots, a -race great in law and in war, in song and in statecraft, with whom, -through their descent from “Gibbie with the Gowden Garters”, a daughter -of Harden, Sir Walter could “count kin”. Jed Water and Ale Water come in -from south and north, farther down, and here, too, every foot is famous. -The “Minstrel” sings of scenes, on the track of William of Deloraine, -“good at need”, among them - - “Ancient Riddel’s fair domain, - Where Aill, from mountains freed, - Down from the lakes did raving come; - Each wave was crested with tawny foam, - Like the mane of a chestnut steed”. - -The inflow of this turbulent stream is below the fine old -tree-surrounded Ancrum House. It is overshadowed by Penielheugh and by -the ridge of Lilliard’s Edge, across which the main road from Carlisle, -that has followed the course of the Teviot almost from its source, toils -painfully over to the valley of the Tweed. On a day in 1545, Ancrum Moor - - “Ran red with English blood, - Where the Douglas true and the bold Buccleuch - ’Gainst keen Lord Evers stood”— - -a victory to which, according to traditions, “fair Maid Lilliard” -contributed manfully, until, like a hero of “Chevy Chase”, she “fought -upon her stumps”. - -Jed Water is still more charged with the history and legends of the -past. Much of it, including Jedburgh Abbey, is the patrimony of the -branch of the Kerrs represented by the Marquis of Lothian, whose modern -seat, Mount Teviot, lies opposite Jedfoot, while the ancient home of the -family, Ferniehirst, begins to run to decay. It would take many pages to -do justice—even “Jeddart justice”—to Jedburgh, whose townsfolk, armed -with their “Jeddart staves” and to their slogan of “Jeddart’s Here!” -were in the front of the Border Wars. Its Abbey, founded by David the -Saint, who placed here Augustinian canons from Beauvais early in the -twelfth century, is still, in spite of having been seven times burned, -the stateliest and the best preserved of the mediæval religious houses -of the Scott Country. The site of the Royal Castle, where in the “Golden -Age” of the Borders Alexander III held court after his second marriage, -has disappeared under public buildings; but the house in the Backgate is -pointed out where Mary Queen of Scots lay sick to death after her -perilous ride to Hermitage, as well as the lodging in the Castlegate -occupied by Prince Charlie on his march into England. - -His road lay over a shoulder of Carter Fell into Redesdale, where runs -what is still the only way across the hills for wheeled traffic in the -sixty miles between Wooler, on the Till, and Riccarton, on the Liddel, -although the Romans built over the Cheviots paved roads, one of which -descended into the head of Kale Water, and, from the site of the old -Border Trysts at Pennymuir, ran straight as a ruled line to the camp of -Newstead, under Eildon. From end to end these hills are deserted, except -by the shepherd and the sportsman. Along the “wild and willowed shore” -of Teviot and of Jed, the “glaring balefires blaze no more”. The race of -the mosstroopers—of “John o’ the Side” and “Christie’s Will”, the -“Laird’s Jock” and “Hobbie Noble”—is long extinct. But there are still -to be found fine products of the soil, of the type of the stalwart -tenant of Charlieshope. The Border spirit may have run into -manufactures, and pastoral and arable farming, and Kirk and State -contentions, but anyone who fancies it is dead should attend a “Common -Riding”, or an otter or fox-hunt, or a game of curling or of hand- or -foot-ball in these parts; or a meeting or parting of Hawick “Teeries” or -of “Jedburgh callants”. He will doubt no more. - -Dryburgh Abbey is less than ten miles distant from Jedburgh, in a -straight line. But there are marked features distinguishing it from its -Teviotdale neighbour as well as from the Abbeys standing below and above -it on Tweedside—Kelso and Melrose. It was planted in its corner of -Berwickshire by baronial and not by kingly beneficence, its founder -being the great Hugh de Morville, in David’s time Constable of Scotland -and Lord of Lauderdale, whose tomb is near the site of the high altar. -It was smaller in size and less richly endowed than the other three, but -is not less generously invested with historic and legendary interest. -Its fate and condition are not dissimilar, for like the others it was -many times burned and ravaged in the Border wars, and was afterwards -abandoned for centuries to neglect and decay. These Tweedside monastic -houses have now fallen upon happier times; for, apart from the reverence -they have gathered from the past, and not least from their association -with Sir Walter Scott, they have lately become national possessions, -through the generosity of the Duke of Roxburghe at Kelso, of the Duke of -Buccleuch at Melrose, and of Lord Glenconner at Dryburgh. The -Præmonstratensian Abbey on the bend of the Tweed under Bemerside Hill -differs from its rivals in respect that it has preserved more of the -monastic buildings and less of the church. Of Dryburgh Abbey -Church—apart from the north transept, of which more has to be -said—little is left beyond the gables of the south transept and of the -west front, the latter pierced by a five-light window, surmounting some -ruined walls, and the foundations of piers. But the chapter house—St. -Modan’s chapel—is extant, and its vaulted roof covers interesting -architectural and archæological details, while of the cloisters, -sacristy, fratery, and other domestic buildings of the “White Friars” of -Dryburgh there are considerable remains, clad in ivy and overhung by -immemorial yews and other trees. Enough survives to indicate a structure -of much grace and beauty, showing a great range of styles from -Romanesque to Later Pointed, and built of a local reddish sandstone -which, as at Melrose, has weathered into a rich and harmonious variety -of colour. - - [Illustration: DRYBURGH ABBEY: THE TOMB OF SIR WALTER SCOTT] - -It is, however, in its situation and in its happy blending with its -immediate surroundings that Dryburgh is chiefly distinguished from its -compeers. It is secluded from the world, on the margin of the wide -stream; hidden among woods and overlooked by hills. To reach it you have -to circumvent rivers and climb up and down steep braes. The easiest way -of approach is by crossing Lessudden Bridge, from the south bank of the -Tweed above the tower of Littledean. This was the road followed by the -“bold Baron” of Smailholm, whose tower and Beacon Hill, and the standing -stones on the moor of Brotherstone, look down from the eastern and -northern skyline on the scene - - “Over Tweed’s fair flood, and Mertoun’s wood, - And all down Teviotdale”. - -By Mertoun’s wood, the screen of Dryburgh from gales blowing from the -sea, and now the property of Lord Polwarth, a Scott of the Harden blood, -the way winds to the Abbey precincts, overshadowed by the great trees -that surround Dryburgh House. Naturally the feet first seek the tomb of -Sir Walter in St. Mary’s Aisle. The story of how the best beloved of the -sons of the Border came to be laid under this fragment of the north -transept and choir—a well-preserved piece of elegant First Pointed -work—is itself a romance. His grandmother on the father’s side, Barbara -Haliburton, was the daughter of a Merse laird, who was owner of part of -the lands of Dryburgh, including the Abbey ruins. She became his -inheritor; but before then Robert Haliburton had lost his lands through -unwise speculation. David Erskine, eleventh Earl of Buchan—brother of -Lord Chancellor Erskine and of Harry Erskine, the brilliant wit and -pleader—who has left the impress of his eccentric mind on the colossal -statue of Wallace which stands, “frowning towards England”, above his -suspension bridge for foot passengers crossing the Tweed from St. -Boswells, became possessor of the ground; and, through Lady Scott, -obtained a promise from the author of _Waverley_ that he should be -buried in this kindred earth. Lady Scott died in 1826, and Buchan in -1829, while Sir Walter himself was not laid here until 26th September, -1832. In his fragment of “Autobiography”, Scott records how he had come -to his own again in this twice-hallowed spot; and, with a touch of -prophecy as well as pathos, he wrote: “And thus we have nothing left of -Dryburgh, although my father’s maternal inheritance, but the right of -stretching our bones where mine may perhaps be laid ere any eye but my -own glances over these pages.” Nowhere—not even in Melrose—could the -Wizard rest more tranquilly than in this scene where nature and art, the -present and the past, and life and death seem to be brought into perfect -accord. - -The funeral cortège, coming from Abbotsford, crossed the Tweed and -Leader at Leaderfoot, and climbing, past Gladswood, by a road with which -Scott was familiar, halted where he had often halted, and where -multitudes have halted since, at a bold and sharp elbow of the path, -raised three hundred feet above the river, whence an unrivalled view can -be had into the heart of the Scott Country. Immediately below, across -the stream, on a peninsula of land washed on three sides by the Tweed, -is Old Melrose, a spot which had gathered sanctity many centuries before -the mediæval abbeys rose in the valley. Here a mission station of the -Christian faith was planted from distant Iona; and hence, probably, -travelled Aidan to convert heathen Northumbria and to found Lindisfarne -and Hexham; here dwelt, as first abbot, his companion Eata, and also -Boisel, who gave his name to St. Boswell’s opposite, and to whom came -for instruction Cuthbert, a shepherd lad who had been reared at -Wrangham, near Brotherstone, and had tended his flock and seen visions -in the Lammermoors. From “Mailros”, the bald promontory—its very name -attests the tongue in which the Celtic founders spoke—St. Cuthbert’s -body in its stone coffin floated downstream on its many wanderings by -water and land; and, as related by Bede, the hermit Drithelm was wont in -winter to break the ice on the river, and, standing up to the neck in -the water, recite his prayers. Although it was abandoned before the -“Sair Saint” brought to the neighbourhood and to Scotland the first -monks of the Cistercian Order, some of the prestige of Old Melrose must -have clung to the name and been transferred to the Religious House on -the new site, the ruddy walls of which can be descried, sheltering at -the foot of the Eildons, across the fields on which, long before the -coming of the Columban missionaries, the Romans planted the -expeditionary camp and permanent station of Trimontium, that have only -lately yielded their secrets to the spade. - -This Bemerside Hill is a “Mount of Vision” from which all the chief -shrines and high places of the Scott Country can be surveyed, at least -with the mind’s eye. Abbotsford itself, if not in actual view, can be -mapped into the scene by direction and position. Out of sight, directly -under the brow of the hill, is the ancient square fortalice, with later -buildings attached, and grounds stretching down towards the Tweed, where -Haigs have been resident for seven centuries. They were benefactors of -Melrose when Alexander III was king, and when Thomas the Rhymer was -their neighbour and wellwisher, and uttered the prophecy that has so -mightily helped its own fulfilment: - - [Illustration: BEMERSYDE HOUSE] - - “Betyde, betyde, whate’er betyde, - Haig shall be Haig of Bemersyde.” - -Sir Walter Scott was a later friend of the family, and was often a guest -in the beautiful rose-garden below the mansion. A grateful nation -bestowed the house and manor on the late Field-Marshal Earl Haig, who -now lies at rest close by Sir Walter at Dryburgh. The whole scene and -surroundings seem to be touched by the spirit of prophecy and of poetry. -On the hills opposite stood the “Eildon Tree” and the “Eildon Stone”; -and beyond these, on Abbotsford property, the reputed “Rhymer’s Glen”, -where “True Thomas” encountered the Queen of Faëry, although the tryst -may well have been at Huntlywood, behind Brotherstone, on the Eden -Water, and near Corsbie Tower, the ruined “Castle of Avenel”. As has -been said, Drithelm and Cuthbert were visionaries, so were Boisel, the -second Abbot of the old, and Waldave, the first Abbot of the new -foundation; and centuries before the time of the Seer of Ercildoune they -dreamed dreams and saw things not of this world and far into the future. -According to popular belief, of like gifts was “Auld Michael”, whose -words “cleft Eildon Hills in three”. The last and the greatest of these -“Wizard Scotts” is he who sleeps with his fathers in St. Mary’s Aisle. - -When descent is made into the valley of the Leader, one is still in the -land of enchantment. The ivy-covered “Rhymer’s Tower” is a few miles up -the glen, and on the way, under the Black Hill of Earlston, are -Drygrange and the “Broom o’ the Cowdenknowes”. Near by, at Mellerstain, -lived and sang Grizel Baillie, who was Grizel Hume; and in the Kirk of -Legerwood is the monument of that other Grizel, who, in the dress of a -highwayman, saved her father’s life by holding up the King’s officer -carrying the writ for his execution. Higher up Leader are Carolside, -and, in a side glen, Auld Thirlstane, the seat of “Auld Maitland”, and -Spottiswoode, the home of Alicia Spottiswoode—Lady John Scott—writer and -composer of “Bonnie Annie Laurie” and other thrilling Scots lyrics. The -new Thirlstane—it is hundreds of years old—is in the centre of -Lauderdale, beside the venerable Royal Burgh of Lauder, the last of the -municipalities in the land to retain its old burghal rights and customs. -Many are the hill-forts and camps that look down on the now peaceful -scenes through which the road—a favourite tourist coach route—passes on -its way from the crossing of the Lammermoors to the Tweed; and among -them are Channelkirk where Cuthbert heard the summons of the Heavenly -Host, and Edgarshope, by which the message of fire that told of the -crossing of the border by the English bands, was wont to be passed on to -Soutra Edge, near by the Hospice of the Red Friars, to which, and not to -Faeryland, Thomas retired from the world, when he followed the -mysterious Hart and Hind up Leaderside. - -Not less richly furnished with the relics of eld and with the charms of -modern cultivation is the parallel vale of the Gala, the nursery of the -“Braw Lads”. The “Shirra” often traversed it on his way by Midleton Moor -to his home and sphere of jurisdiction on Ettrick and Tweed, upon which -the stream, road, and railway debouch a little below the mill lades and -chimney stalks of the town of Galashiels, and almost opposite to -Abbotsford. On the links and bends of the Gala, and its side glens of -the Heriot, the Armit, and the Luggate, are many places of historic -note—Crookston, of the Borthwicks, for example; Stow—the “Stowe of -Wedale”, of Arthurian and mediæval fame; Bowland, like Eildon Hall, on -the farther side of the Eildons, a possession of the House of Buccleuch; -the ruined “broch” on the Bow Hill, facing, across the valley, a similar -structure which, with the termination of that ancient and mysterious -line of earthworks, the “Catrail”, occupies the crown of Torwoodlee, of -the Pringles; finally, Buckholm Hill and Tower, looking over the roofs -of the busy seat of tweed manufactures to Gala Hill and Gala House of -the Scotts. “Gala Water, Buckholm, Torwoodlee”, were among the last -audible words murmured by the dying “Border Minstrel”. - -Between “Leader howms” and Gala Water runs the little stream of the -Allan or Alwyne through the “Fairy Dean”. Lovers of Scott will not pass -it by, because, apart from the loveliness of its succession of -wood-embowered haughs, it leads to a spot where three ruined peel -towers—Hillslap, Colmslie, and Langshaw—stand not many bowshots apart, -memorials of the time when the smaller lairds had to bind themselves -together by a “bond of manrent”, for protection against their more -powerful neighbours; and the first of these has been identified, with -some sanction from Scott himself, as the “Glendearg” of the Glendinnings -in _The Monastery_ and _The Abbot_. Near the bridge which crosses the -Tweed at the “Pavilion of Alwyn”, and the “groves of noble Somerville”, -was the scene of the misadventure of Philip, the Sacristan, at the hands -of the spirits, and of Mysie Happer, the daughter of the miller of the -Halidome. The dairy farm of the “monks of St. Mary’s” was on Allan -Water; up it led the “girth-gait” which they often followed on the way -to Soutra Hospice. True Thomas’s rhymed sayings cling to this -countryside like—in Father Philip’s phrase—“burrs to a beggar’s rags”. -The region between Leaderfoot and Galashiels was part of the original -patrimony of the Cistercian Abbey; all the way, but especially where -Gattonside, set on its hillside and surrounded by its famous orchards, -“beiks in the sun”, one sees, in glimpses or in full view, - - [Illustration: MELROSE ABBEY: CHOIR AND NORTH TRANSEPT] - - “Where fair Tweed flows round holy Melrose - And Eildon slopes to the plain”. - -In drawing near to Melrose, especially if one crosses at Leaderfoot, and -approaches by the village of Newstead and over the site of the Roman -camp, one feels there is something to be said for Dorothy Wordsworth’s -disappointment on coming first into near view of the Abbey. It stands -back from the river—perhaps because the river has left it—and apart from -the hills. It is in the fields outside of the village, the streets of -which come to its gate and stop there; and it is surrounded by walls, -which interrupt and deform proportions seriously injured by the loss of -its central tower. Melrose—“the light of the land, the abode of saints, -the grave of monarchs”—is a glorious fragment, more beautiful, perhaps, -in detail than in general effect, in ornament than in design; and -memorable even more for its legendary and literary associations than for -its actual history. The monastery dates from the same abbey-building -reign as its rivals on Tweedside; but architecturally the church belongs -to another horizon. Of the original Norman fabric that stood on the site -scarcely a trace remains. It was swept away during the descent upon it -of Edward II in 1322, and what remained must have perished under the -equally destructive assault of Richard II in 1385. Between these two -dates, a building arose, represented by the eastern end of the nave with -its flying buttresses and by adjoining parts of the choir and transepts, -that may be regarded as a monument of the piety and the gratitude of -Robert the Bruce, whose heart, brought back from the Paynim lands to -which the “good Sir James” of Douglas had carried it, is buried in the -Abbey. The work of rebuilding was continued for nearly a couple of -centuries longer; and it is evident that the highest art and -craftsmanship the age could produce were employed in construction and in -ornament, which, owing to the fineness of grain of the red sandstone -employed, remains in wonderful preservation. It is doubtful whether it -was completed before the tempests of the Tudor invasions and of the -Reformation fell upon it, and the monks were put to flight. It has not -been definitely ascertained how far the long nave extended to the -westward, or what was the plan of the monastic buildings, of which and -of the cloister only a few fragments are left on the northern side of -the church. The presbytery, with its much extolled “east oriel” window, -was probably among the later additions, and is one of the finest -examples of Perpendicular Gothic extant. Scott would have us view it -when the moon is shining “through slender shafts of shapely stone, by -foliaged tracery combined”, and to imagine that - - “Some fairy’s hand - ’Twixt poplars straight the ozier wand, - In many a freakish knot, had twined”. - -But even more wonderful and beautiful to many eyes is the great -Decorated window of the south transept that lightens the aisle in which, -as is fabled, the Wizard Michael sleeps with his magic books beside him. -Familiar are the lines in which Sir Walter, a constant pilgrim to this -shrine, chants its praises—of its cloister garth: - - “Nor herb, nor floweret, glistened there, - But was carved in the cloister-arches fair”; - -of the vaulted roof, where - - “The key-stone that locked each ribbéd aisle - Was a fleur-de-lys or a quatrefeuille”; - -and of the pillars, with their clustered shafts, that - - “With base and with capital flourished around - Seem’d bundles of lances which garlands had bound”. - -It must have been a labour of love to frame this marvellously carved -casket, in which are laid the ashes of kings and prelates. Here rest the -chiefs of the once mighty House of Douglas, and, not far away, of the -English Warden who desecrated their tombs and was overtaken and slain at -Ancrum Moor; among minor clans “Ye race of ye House of Zair”—Kerrs and -Pringles; and, later in date but of the same stubborn and trusty Border -stuff, Tom Purdie, the reclaimed poacher and faithful watchdog and -factotum of the Laird of Abbotsford. The prayer of John Morvo, inscribed -on the wall of the south transept, - - “I pray to God and Marie baith - And sweet St. John keep this haly Kirk frae skaith”, - -has not been fulfilled. To other bludgeonings of fate was added its -conversion into the parish church in the seventeenth century. Walter -Scott helped to rescue it from vandalism and neglect; and he continues -to be the guardian spirit of the “dark Abbaye”. - -Not less than in the days of the monks is the adjacent town of -Melrose—“Kennaquair” the residence of the antiquarian Captain Cuthbert -Clutterbuck—an appanage of the Abbey, out of which indeed it has partly -been built. One looks in vain for the “Druid Oak”, which existed only in -Scott’s fancy. But Melrose has its market cross and market place, and -does a modest business with the country round. Its chief source of -prosperity, however, is in its situation and its associations; it may be -called the capital of the “Scott Country”. Abbotsford is little more -than a couple of miles away. The road to it passes Darnick Tower, a red -keep festooned with greenery, the stronghold of one of the lay vassals -of the Abbey; and skirts, in the grounds of the Hydropathic -Establishment, the “skirmish field” on which was fought in 1526 the fray -between the Scotts and the Kerrs of the Douglas faction that gave rise -to a long feud between the clans. Scott, it may be noted, speaks of the -scene, when - - “Cessford’s heart-blood dear - Reeked on dark Elliot’s Border spear”, - -as if it had taken place beside the ruined Kerr stronghold of Holydean, -on the southern side of the hills beyond Huntly-burn and the “Rhymer’s -Glen”, and thus near to the pretty village of Bowden, which sits under -the lowest of the three Eildons, and looks down into the valley of the -Ale and towards Cavers Carre and Lilliesleaf. - -The fields and woods sloping down from Bowden Moor and Cauldshields -Loch, on the left of the way from Melrose to Abbotsford, are part of the -possessions which Sir Walter gathered together between 1811, when he had -to give up Ashestiel, and 1824; and they still belong to his -descendants. The nucleus of the property was the little farm of Cartley, -or Clarty, Hole, on the Tweed a little above the inflow of the Gala. It -lay almost opposite to the site of the plum trees that, according to a -story of Border foray much cherished in Galashiels, gave to that town -the burghal arms and the slogan tune of “Soor Plooms”, the favourite -bagpipe air of Scott’s Kelso uncle. On the strength of a tradition that -there was here a crossing-place of the monks, Abbotsford got its new and -ever memorable name. A modest cottage, which forms part of the west -wing, gradually grew with the growth of the owner’s fame and fortunes, -until, at the end of fourteen years, by addition and reconstruction, -mainly all of Sir Walter’s own devising, it had become the stately -baronial mansion, adorned with turrets, corbels, and crowsteps, that -challenges the eye by its form and size as well as by its history. Into -it the author of the _Waverley Novels_ may be said to have built his -fancies, his aspirations, and his ambitions; and here he counted on -spending the evening of his days in well-earned rest, surrounded by his -children and his friends, and by the love and admiration of his fellow -countrymen. Hardly had this “poem in stone and lime” been brought to -completion when an untimely frost blasted his hopes, and with unimpaired -courage, but with gradually failing strength, he turned to a task, -greater than any that ever fell to his namesake the “michty Michael”, -and worked unremittingly, with hand and brain, for another seven years’ -term until he came back for the last time to Abbotsford, a spent and -broken man, to die. Sadder far his return than his departure a year -before in quest of health, when - - “A trouble, not of clouds or weeping rain, - Nor of the setting sun’s pathetic light - Engendered, hung o’er Eildon’s triple height”. - -It brought the last touch of tragedy and of heroism to the closing scene -of that noble life—to the passing of the marvellous power, the warm and -generous heart, the gallant spirit that was Walter Scott. He enjoyed, -however, many happy days in Abbotsford; it is associated more with his -triumphs than with his misfortunes. Here he trod his fields, delighted -“to call this wooded patch of earth his own”, entertained literary -celebrities like Washington Irving, Maria Edgeworth, and the -Wordsworths, held almost feudal receptions of his retainers and -neighbours, talked and walked with his familiars—Lockhart, Skene, -Cranstoun, the “beloved Erskine”—and with his “ain folk”, and planned -and wrote his novels. Tweed sings a blither as well as a fuller strain -since he dwelt by it. - -Into the house, he built material more substantial than his hopes. Scott -had the antiquarian temper and taste; and like Burns’s Grose, and his -own Oldbuck, he gathered about him “a routh o’ auld nicknackets”, many -of them the free-will offering of admirers. In this way the door of the -old Edinburgh Tolbooth—the “Heart of Midlothian”—came into his -possession, along with the ponderous lock and key over which “Daddie -Ratton” had held charge. Sculptured and inscribed stones from the High -Street and Canongate houses have also found their way here; while within -the house has been collected a museum of Border antiquities, along with -portraits, and personal souvenirs and relics, gathered from all corners -of the land. The house has been left “very much as in Sir Walter’s -time”; and a constant stream of pilgrims visits it. In the library are -relics of Napoleon, of Prince Charlie and Flora Macdonald, of Nelson and -Wellington; in the drawing-room, among other famous pictures, is -Raeburn’s portrait of Scott; in the armoury, memorials of Rob Roy, -Montrose, Claverhouse, and Archbishop Sharpe, and the keys of Loch Leven -Castle, while on the walls are blazoned the escutcheons of “ye Clannis -and men of name quha keepit ye Scottish Marches in the days of auld”. -But more impressive than any of these things are the chair in which -Scott sat to write or dictate and the pen that in his hand was as a -magician’s rod. - -The way from Abbotsford to Selkirk, by the valleys of the Tweed and -Ettrick, past Fawdonside and Lindean, was a familiar one to the -“Shirra”. He had legal and other county business that carried him often -during a third of a century to the head town of his Forest Sheriffdom; -and inclination went hand in hand with duty, for the road led to Ettrick -and Yarrow, to “Sweet Bowhill” and to - - “The shattered front of Newark’s towers - Renowned in Border story”. - - [Illustration: ABBOTSFORD] - -Selkirk—the old “church of the shielings”, which, in the days when David -I and his successors hunted in the forest of Ettrick, served the royal -sportsmen for their orisons—narrowly missed being the seat of an Abbey. -A colony of Tyronesian monks were settled in it more than eight -centuries ago, but were removed, “for convenience”, to Kelso. The -“Souters of Selkirk” have since given themselves to war, to shoemaking, -and latterly to tweed manufacture. But the town has not neglected -poetry, and bards of later date have been born and have sung in it, -since Burns and Scott drew the “birse” across their lips. It is set well -above the vale of the Ettrick, at the gate of the Haining policies; and -its public buildings are gathered around the triangular market-place, in -which stands a statue of Sir Walter in his sheriff’s robes. In the Free -Library is hung the Flodden Standard brought home by the survivors of -that day of disaster, when “the Flowers o’ the Forest were a’ wede -awa’”. - -In 1645 Montrose was resting, with his cavalry, in Selkirk, his infantry -encamped at Philiphaugh, on the other side of Ettrick, when David Lesley -crept up on him from Melrose, in the mist of a September morning. In two -or three hours the fruits of nine brilliant victories were lost, and the -great captain was a fugitive speeding across Minchmoor to Traquair, -where, the door being shut on him, he passed on to Clydesdale and the -Highlands. There have been many romantic crossings of Minchmoor, and -meetings and partings at “Wallace’s Trench”—part of the old Catrail or -Picts’ Dyke—and at the Cheese Well. Walter Scott accompanied his friend -Mungo Park—whose statue stands near his own in the streets of -Selkirk—when Park was starting on his African journey. They separated on -the ridge above Williamhope, where, as has already been told, Sir -William Douglas, the “Flower of Chivalry”, was slain by his cousin the -Earl of Douglas, in revenge, it is said, for the most unchivalrous deed -of the starving to death, in Hermitage Castle, of Sir Alexander de -Ramsay. Across this high moor between Yarrow and Tweed came James V, -with five belted earls, to the meeting with the “Outlaw Murray”, lord of -Hangingshaws, and Newark, and Philiphaugh and other lands on Yarrow. The -king’s message ran— - - “Bid him meet me at Permanscore,[1] - And bring four in his companie; - Five earls sall come wi’ mysel, - Good reason I suld honoured be”. - -Permanscore is a hollow of the hill, “where wind and water shears”, and -here, three hundred years after the “Outlaw’s” time, the “Shirra” -assembled and conducted “a perambulation of the marches” in a case of -disputed boundaries. - -Carterhaugh—the meadow on which faithful Janet met “Young Tamlane”, and, -by holding him through all his grisly transformations, rescued him from -Fairy-land—lies in the fork between Ettrick and Yarrow. Behind it is -Bowhill, at the time when the _Lay_ was written the favourite seat of -the Buccleuch family; and the “Duchess’s Walk”, along the right bank of -the Yarrow, is named from the lady who suggested to Scott the “Goblin -Page” as an episode of the _Lay_. It leads to where - - “Newark’s stately tower - Looks out from Yarrow’s birchen bower”, - -and to the “embattled portal arch” - - “Whose ponderous grate and massy bar - Had oft rolled back the tide of war”. - -Within the deserted walls, the widowed Duchess of Buccleuch and Monmouth -is pictured as listening to the tale of the Last Minstrel. Local -tradition has it that in the courtyard the Irish prisoners who -surrendered at Philiphaugh were massacred; another story asserts that -they were slaughtered on “Slainmenslee”. Newark was a royal hunting-seat -in the fifteenth century; and its possession carried with it the -Hereditary Sheriffdom of the Forest, which with many things else in this -country came to the House of Buccleuch. - -Over against Newark is Foulshiels, the birthplace of Mungo Park. -Broadmeadows and Lewinhope and Tinnis are higher up the stream, which -here runs between steep wooded hills, cloven by narrow side glens and -with spaces of rich haughland on its margin. Yarrow burrows under banks -of birch and hazel, or overshadowed by fine forest trees. The vale is -“strewn with the sites of the tragedies of far-off years, forgotten by -history, but remembered in song and tradition”; it is “the very -sanctuary of romantic ballad-love. Its clear current sings a mournful -song of the ‘good heart’s bluid’ that once stained its wave; of the -drowned youth caught in the ‘cleaving o’ the craig’. The winds that -sweep the hillsides and bend ‘the birks a’ bowing’ whisper still of the -wail of the ‘winsome marrow’, and have an undernote of sadness on the -brightest day of summer; while with the fall of the red and yellow leaf -the very spirit of ‘pastoral melancholy’ broods and sleeps in the -enchanted valley. Always, by Yarrow, the comely youth goes forth only to -fall by the sword, fighting against odds in the Dowie Dens, or to be -caught and drowned in the treacherous pools of this fateful river; -always the woman is left to weep over her lost and lealful lord.” No -strict identification of ballad sites and origins is possible; but the -story of the “Dowie Dens” has become associated with Tinnis bank and -with Deucharswire, beside Yarrow Kirk; and is said to be founded on the -slaughter in 1616 of Walter Scott of Oakwood by the kin of John Scott of -Tushielaw, with whose daughter, Grizel, Oakwood had contracted an -irregular marriage. - - [Illustration: TRAQUAIR] - -A group of authentic memories gather around Yarrow Kirk and Manse, and -the bridge which carries a crossroad over the hills to Ettrick. A -succession of cultured pastors have dwelt here, including Dr. Rutherford -the grandfather of Scott, two generations of Russells, and the late Dr. -Borland. By an unfortunate fire, in the spring of 1922, the restored -church was destroyed, together with the memorials placed in it of Sir -Walter, of Willie Laidlaw, his friend and amanuensis, of Wordsworth, and -of the Ettrick Shepherd, all of them residents or visitors on Yarrow and -worshippers in this secluded fane. In a field close by is a stone carved -in rude Latin minuscules to the “Sons of Liberalis, of the Dumnogeni”, a -relic of post-Roman times. Above Yarrow Kirk, the valley widens until it -becomes spacious enough to hold the clear mirror of St. Mary’s Loch; the -hills become bare and green and smooth, and over the ridge on the right -comes the road from the Tweed by Paddyslack and Mountbenger to the -Gordon Arms. It was from this road that Wordsworth, in good company, -caught his first, and his last, glimpse of Yarrow— - - “When first descending from the moorlands - I saw the stream of Yarrow glide - Along a bare and open valley, - The Ettrick Shepherd was my guide. - When last along its banks I wandered, - Through groves that had begun to shed - Their golden leaves upon the pathway, - My steps the Border Minstrel led.” - -Hogg farmed, unsuccessfully, Mountbenger, before he removed across -Yarrow to Altrieve, where he spent the last year of his life and where -he died. In his youth he had herded sheep on Blackhouse heights, where -looking down on the ruined peel on the Douglas burn are the stones that -mark the place where the “seven bauld brethren” fell, in their pursuit -of “Lord William and Lady Margaret”. The escaping lovers lighted down at -this “wan water”. - - “‘Hold up, hold up, Lord William,’ she said, - ‘For I fear that ye are slain.’ - ‘’Tis naething but the shadow of my scarlet cloak - That shines in the water so plain.’” - -But it was his “heart’s bluid”, and the pair were buried together in St. -Mary’s Church, whose deserted graveyard is set on a shelf of Hendersyde -Hill, overlooking the loch, and fronting the dome of Bowerhope Hill. - -On the banks of a burn which flows into Yarrow a little below where it -issues from the loch is Dryhope Tower. “Auld Watt” of Harden came to it -to bear away Mary Scott, the “Flower of Yarrow”, and part of the -provision for their housekeeping was the spoils of the “first -harvest-moon”. Half-way along the shore of St. Mary’s, at Cappercleuch, -pours in the Meggat Water, a stream that drains some of the highest -ground in the Southern Uplands. It was a favourite royal hunting-forest -in 1529, when James V came this way intent on the extirpation of the -Border thieves; and fate threw in his path Cockburn of Henderland, whose -tower was near Meggatfoot. The hollow and waterfall of the “Dowglen” are -shown where his lady sought shelter, while “they broke her bower and -slew her knight”; the spot, with names inscribed, can be seen in a -little clump of wood beside the ruined peel to which she bore him on her -back and dug his grave:— - - “And thinkna ye my heart was sair - When I laid the mools on his yellow hair; - And thinkna ye my heart was wae - When I turned aside awa to gae”. - -Unfortunately for tradition, the fact is on record that Cockburn of -Henderland, like his neighbour Scott of Tushielaw, was tried and -executed at Edinburgh. James Hogg would have made small ado about -brushing such obstructions out of the way of romance. His statue stands -at the head of St. Mary’s Loch—the presiding genius of the scene. The -road up Yarrow, passing through the woods of Rodono, holds out beyond -it, by the Loch of the Lowes and Chapelhope to Birkhill, and then, under -the “Grey Mare’s Tail” and White Coombe, down Moffatdale. But the seated -figure of the burly Shepherd, wrapped in his plaid, faces “Tibbie -Shiels”, the rendezvous of generations of thirsty fishers and poets, on -the narrow space between the lochs, and looks towards the hills up which -the crossroad climbs steeply, making for Ettrick. It was at this famous -hostelry that Hogg gave his classical order, after a hard night’s -drinking with Christopher North and other congenial company, “Tibbie, -bring in the Loch!” “He taught the wandering winds to sing”, reads the -inscription on his monument; and the strong song of the winds that blow -down Ettrick accompanies the traveller as he climbs over by the -Packman’s Grave, descends to Tushielaw and, turning upstream at -Crosslee, follows the valley to the Shepherd’s birthplace and grave, -beside Ettrick Kirk. This out-of-the-world nook in the hills—for the -road up Ettrickdale comes to an end a few miles higher, under Ettrick -Pen—may be reckoned the heart of pastoral Scotland. The thoughts and the -talk of the inhabitants are absorbed in sheep—except what may be -reserved for sport, and “auld farrant tales”, and church affairs. Around -the Shepherd rest many of his own kin and kind: farmers and herds, -lairds and tenants, reivers, smugglers, and gypsies—and in this strange -mixed company, “Boston of Ettrick”, of the “Fourfold State”, the great -preacher and Covenanting divine. - -The Castle of Thirlstane, on Ettrick, stands a little below the kirk, -with a fragment of Gamescleuch Tower facing it on the opposite bank. -Thirlstane belonged to the “Ready, aye Ready” Scotts, until it went by -marriage to its present possessors the Napiers. Tushielaw was another -hold of the clan, and here dwelt Adam Scott—“King of the Thieves”, and -“King of the Borders”—the father of Mary, the “Forest Flower” of the -“Queen’s Wake”—until his rival from Holyrood came and “justified” him, -says legend, on the Doom Tree at his own door. - -Across the water from Tushielaw “Rankleburn’s lonely side” leads far -into the hills. Rankleburn is the traditional first home of the Scotts -in the basin of the Tweed, although Kirkurd in the Lyne valley might put -in an earlier claim. They are even said to have drawn their name and -their chief title from this deserted glen, high up which lies Buccleuch, -now marked only by the foundations of a chapel wall. Scott of Satchells, -who wrote the family story in halting rhyme, in 1686, tells how a -wandering Scott from Galloway, in the remote days of Kenneth II, seized -a hunted buck by the horns, swung it on his shoulders and brought it to -the king:— - - “And for the buck thou stoutly brought - To us up that steep heugh, - Thy designation ever shall - Be John Scott of Buck’s cleuch”. - -Neither at Gilmanscleuch, nor on the Deloraine burn, nor at the Dodhead -have the men of the type of Jamie Telfer, who, “steady of heart and -stout of hand, once drove their prey from Cumberland”, left any trace of -themselves in standing walls. A reminiscence of old forest times -survives in such names as Hindhope and Hartwoodmyres; the shell of an -ancient peel guards, at Kirkhope, the “Swire Road” across the “Witchie -Knowe” from Yarrow to Ettrick Bridgend; and Oakwood has something more -substantial to show in the shape of the red keep which local legend -insists was built by the redoubtable Sir Michael Scott himself, although -its foundations must have been laid centuries after his date. Enough for -us that it was in the keeping of “Auld Watt” of Harden. - - “Wide lay his lands round Oakwood Tower - And wide round haunted Castle Ower.” - -At Oakwood we are back again beside Selkirk, and at Selkirk we are near -where, each skirting the grounds of Sunderland Hall, Tweed and Ettrick -meet, and where we can resume our course up the larger stream. With the -delightful section of the Tweed between The Rink and Elibank, Walter -Scott had many close ties. The right bank, and part of the left, were -within his jurisdiction as Sheriff, in which office he succeeded his -friend, Andrew Plummer of Sunderland Hall, in 1799. But even earlier he -made familiar acquaintance with the district, on angling and walking -excursions, and had visited the Russells and “Laird Nippy”, at -Ashestiel. The Rutherfords of Fairnilee—the old house in which was born -Alison Rutherford, the author of the popular version of “The Flowers of -the Forest”, stands roofless and deserted, but a new mansion has risen -in its neighbourhood—were of his kin. He was a welcome guest also with -the Pringles of Yair, whose home, bound about by the woods and hills, is -across the river, with the “sister heights of Yair”, otherwise known as -the “Three Brethren”, as background. It may be remembered that it was -with a son of “the long-descended lord of Yair”, Alexander Pringle of -Clovenfords, that in later days he went over the field of Waterloo. -Clovenfords was the nearest point of his Sheriffdom to town, and it was -convenient for him to take up occasional residence there. Leyden had -been schoolmaster in the village, which stands high above the rocky den -of the Caddon, on the Peebles and Galashiels road, a mile from the -“bonny bit” of Caddonfoot. While raising grapes and other fruit it -piously preserves the memory of the author of _Marmion_ in the form of -an effigy set up before the door of the inn, where, besides Scott, -William and Dorothy Wordsworth and other famous travellers have -sojourned. - - [Illustration: ASHESTIEL: SCOTT’S FIRST HOUSE IN THE BORDER COUNTRY] - -In 1804, Scott found it convenient to take a lease of Ashestiel; and -that leafy cover became his home for the next seven years. It is within -a couple of miles of Clovenfords and Caddonfoot. Under Caddonlee, where -William the Lion waited with his bands from the Highlands and the -Lothians, until he was joined by the Forest men on his ill-fated -invasion of England, Tweed is crossed by a single wide arch to where -“Glenkinnen’s rill” and glen open a short cut, oft traversed with the -“Yair boys”, to Yarrow. Near the Peel burn is a knoll shaded by oak and -birch—the “Shirra’s Knowe”—where part of _Marmion_ is said to have been -written. The house, much changed since Scott’s day, turns its front and -two extended wings away from the Tweed; but its most attractive aspect -is perhaps that towards the river. The little stream, that with its -hoarse roaring in spate used to keep the great author, then just -blossoming into fame, from his sleep, still tumbles through the garden. -His armchair, which came back from Abbotsford after his death, and the -window through which his favourite dogs sprang in or out at his call, -are still shown. In these Ashestiel years he saw the last volume of the -_Minstrelsy_ through the press, published the _Lay_, completed _Marmion_ -and _The Lady of the Lake_, edited Dryden, and began but laid aside -_Waverley_. His legal work was not absorbing, and he had time, aside -from literature, for following the hounds, “burning the water”, making -raids into the Forest, and holding convivial meetings with his friends. -They were perhaps the happiest, if not the most brilliant, years of his -life. - -At Elibank, a couple of miles above Ashestiel, we leave Selkirkshire and -enter Peeblesshire. The bare grey walls of the old castle of Gideon -Murray, of the Black Barony branch of the name, a lord of Session and -trusted Councillor of James VI, stands well above the tree-line, against -the background of the hills, and commands a wide view of Upper and Lower -Tweeddale. History, in this region, arranges itself in strata, with the -oldest at the top—by the river margin are road and rail, farms with -their fertile haughs, and the houses and tweed-mills of Walkerburn and -Innerleithen; fragments of peels and bastiles of the fighting times when -Thornielee and Holylee were onsteads of the monks or of the king’s -forest vassals, are perched on the ridges, or hide in the folds or -“hopes” of the hills, on whose summits are found the forts and cairns of -a still earlier day. The outposts of the Moorfoots come to the left bank -of the river, and behind them are the broad shoulders of Windlestraelaw; -while over against them are steep outliers of Minchmoor—Elibank, Bold -and Plora Laws. “Juden” Murray’s tower is of feudal date and aspect. -Scott tells the story of how Young Harden, son of Auld Watt and the -“Flower of Yarrow”, and presumably a personable young man, was captured -by the owner of the tower and was about to be hanged, when the more -politic lady pointed out that she had three ill-favoured daughters to -dispose of, and the prisoner was happily married to the youngest and -plainest, “Mucklemou’d Meg”. An injudicial proceeding; but not more so -than the transaction by which Murray’s neighbour, Lord Traquair, had the -President of the Court of Session carried off from Leith Links, by a -Border freebooter, Christie’s Will, and kept in a dungeon of Hermitage -Castle, until a case was decided in Traquair’s favour. Doubt has been -thrown on both stories, and in particular it has been objected that -Gideon Murray, whose descendants, the Lords Elibank of to-day, are -established at Darn Hall on Eddleston Water, had only one daughter, that -her name was Agnes, and that, although she married Young Harden, the -alliance was with full consent of all parties concerned. - -Lee Pen and Kirnie Law stand sentinels at the entrance of Leithen Water, -up which the houses of Innerleithen straggle for a mile or more, along a -road which runs across into Lothian, by the Piper’s Grave, the Heriot -Water, and Carcant. It is a way by which Walter Scott, walking or -driving, has often reached Tweedside, and he would note in passing -Leithen Hopes, where his friend Hogg was once a herd laddie, and on the -lower slope of the Pen, south of Lee Tower and above the village, the -beginnings of the new “Spa”. The topographical resemblances of “St. -Ronan’s” to Innerleithen are not very close; and Sir Bingo Binks, Lady -Penelope Penfeather, Dr. Quackleben, and other types in Scott’s solitary -attempt at a satiric portrayal of the social manners and humours of his -own day, are not of local growth. One looks in vain, also, for a -“Cleikum Inn” nearer than Peebles. Yet the spirit of Meg Dods pervades -the place, the inhabitants of which eagerly accepted the identification -and “recognized some of the characters as genuine portraits”. They have -even adopted the device, on the inn-sign, of “St. Ronan and the Devil” -as the burgh arms. - -Geologists—who, “knappin the chucky stanes to pieces wi’ hammers”, -reminded Meg of “sae many stane masons run daft”—still frequent the -locality, along with anglers and tourists; for at Thornilee, as well as -across Tweed at Grieston and the Glen, are celebrated beds of -fossiliferous rocks. The bridge is not far above the pool—the -“Droon-pouch”—from which the body of the young son of King Malcolm the -Maiden was drawn by the Innerleithen people, in gratitude for which its -church was made a “Sanctuary” with privileges equal to those of Stow and -of Tyninghame. On the farther side is the entrance to the valley of the -Quair, and the woods surrounding the venerable form of Traquair House. -Its claim to be “the oldest inhabited house in Scotland” applies -specifically to its western wing, which is said to date back fully nine -centuries. However this may be, the antique character of Traquair is -written on its outward features as well as inscribed in its record. It -passed through the hands of a succession of royal favourites, of whom -the last was James III’s musician and “familiar shield-bearer”, Rogers, -who was among those hung over Lauder Bridge by the jealous nobles, -before it came into the possession of a branch of the Stewart Earls of -Buchan. The Traquair Stewarts have been of mixed reputation; but the -tradition of loyalty to the cause of their Royal kin now clings to the -house and is symbolized in the great Bear Gateway—the prototype of that -of the “Barons of Bradwardine” in _Waverley_—which is not to be opened -until a Stewart King comes again this way. - -Like the house itself, all its surroundings breathe of the poetry and -romance of the past. For was it not behind Plora Craig that “Bonnie -Kilmeny gaed up the glen”? Are there not some scrogs of birch left by -the waterside of the much besung “Bush aboon Traquair”? Were not the -dwelling of Willie Laidlaw, and the scene of “Lucy’s Flitting” in the -upper valley, in which stands the lordly mansion of Lord Glenconner—“The -Glen” _par excellence_? And above all, is it not by the road along the -Quair that one “turns aside to Yarrow”? - -In the nine miles between Innerleithen and Peebles the full current of -Tweed winds through a country brimfull of beauty and story. Whether the -road followed upstream be that on the right or that on the left bank, -one passes the ruins of ancient strongholds and modern country-seats, -set among trees and lawns—on the south side, after Traquair, Cardrona, -Kailzie, Haystoun, and Kingsmeadows, and on the north Glenormiston, the -two Horsburghs, and Kerfield—and, behind these, high hills of grass and -heather, Lee Pen, Dunslair and the Makeness Kips, over against the -Glenrath Heights and the Dun Rig, from which on a clear day can be seen, -it is said, the Calton Hill in Edinburgh and the Isle of May. The little -country-town of Peebles is in a level space where Eddleston Water, side -by side with rail and highway, meets Tweed; and from time immemorial it -has been a resort of royalty, a place for pastime and -relaxation—“Peebles for pleesure!”—and, in a modest way, for trade. It -had a reputation for sanctity, also, in witness whereof there are the -remains of the two mediæval churches—those of St. Andrew and of the Haly -Rude. The house of the Archdean of Glasgow is represented by the -Lodging, in the High Street, of the Dukes of Queensberry, now become a -public library, whose name, the Chambers Institute, recalls the fact -that the founders of the publishing house of Chambers were born in a -humble cottage in one of the cross streets. Peebles has outgrown the -limits marked by the fragment of the town wall, and has spread -northwards to the foot of the hills, where on Venlaw—part of its lost -patrimony—it has public walks and a “Hydro”; while it has crossed, by -the handsome stone bridge, to the southern bank of Tweed; whence a -branch railway follows the course of the river to Broughton, on the way -to Clydesdale. - -A mile out of the town, to the west, is Neidpath Castle, the most -commandingly and romantically situated, and, in spite of the yawning -gaps made in its walls by Cromwell’s cannon, the best-preserved—Traquair -excepted—of the strongholds of the olden time on Tweed. The river is -here constricted by the bare cairn-strewn ridge of Caidmuir—once Peebles -Common—on the south, and by the Edston heights on the Neidpath side, and -has cut a deep ravine through which has drained the great lake that once -filled upper Tweeddale. The water swirls around rock and boulder below -the castle base; and the screen of trees, whose destruction by that -“degenerate Douglas”, Old Q., provoked Wordsworth’s indignant sonnet, -has been partially restored. Access to the lofty thick walled double -tower, still partly occupied, is by a gateway and courtyard; and over -this outer portal are the arms of the early owners—the strawberries of -the Frasers of Oliver Castle, from whom are descended the Frasers of the -North; and the goat’s head of the Hays of Yester, who here entertained -James VI, defied the Commonwealth, and were created Lords of Tweeddale. -Afterwards the castle and lands came into the possession of the -Douglases of Queensberry, and they now belong to the Earl of Wemyss and -March. From the window, now built up, over the arch, as has been sung by -Scott and by Campbell, the dying “Maid of Neidpath” looked forth to -watch the return of her undiscerning lover. Still discoverable is the -casement in the Justice Room of the tower, out of which wrong-doers were -hung after summary trial. - - [Illustration: NEIDPATH CASTLE] - -As Pennecuik sang two centuries ago: - - “The noble Neidpath Peebles overlooks - With its fair bridge and Tweed’s meandering crooks”. - -But it overlooks much else; and a short distance above it there open up, -to right and left, the subsidiary vales of the Lyne and the Manor. The -former comes from the “Cauldstaneslap”, in the heart of the Pentlands, -and passing on its way, at the meeting with the Tarth, Drochil -Castle—built as a retreat by the Regent Morton, who was shortened by a -head with a guillotine of his own contriving before he had time to -complete his work—enters Tweed below the remains of the great Roman Camp -of Lyne. The Manor Water draws its springs from the neighbourhood of -Yarrow. Once it was defended by eight strong peels, only one of which, -Barns—where Mr. John Buchan has laid the scene of his “John Burnet of -Barns”—stands erect. Posso Craigs, where the Stewart Kings bred their -falcons, and the sites of St. Gordian’s Kirk and Cross and of “Macbeth’s -Castle” can be pointed out. But Manor’s chief memorials are the grave -and the cottage of David Ritchie, the prototype of the “Black Dwarf”, -the “recluse of Meiklestane Moor”. Scott, as a young visitor to Manor -with Adam Ferguson, received an impression which never left him when the -deformed and eccentric being, who built his own hut with its doorway -three feet high, took him into its arcana, and locking the door and -seizing his hand, asked him earnestly: “Hae ye the pooer?”—the power of -divination! - -The “Thieves’ Road”, by which the Border reivers made their way into -Lothian, strikes athwart the hills enclosing the valleys of Manor and -Lyne, descending to the Tweed from the slopes of the Scrape to the woods -of Dawick. Veitches were succeeded in this sheltered place by Naesmiths, -whose fortunes were built up by an indefatigable seventeenth century -lawyer known as “the Deil o’ Dawick”. It boasts possession of the oldest -larches in Scotland, brought hither on the suggestion of Linnæus, though -the honour is disputed by Kailzie lower down Tweed. Across the river is -another fine wooded domain—Stobo—whose ancient church preserves a Norman -doorway, a saddle-back tower, and a “jougs”; while, from the hills -behind, this level strath seems to be menaced by the fragments of Tinnis -Castle, set, like a robber tower on the Rhine, on the summit of an -almost inaccessible rocky spur. It is believed to have been the original -hold of the Tweedies of Drummelzier, a race whose fabled descent was -from a Tweed water-nymph, and whose conduct towards their neighbours, -the Veitches of Dawick and the Geddeses of Rachan, sadly belied the -motto on their tomb at Drummelzier Church—“Thole and Think”. Hard by -that edifice at the meeting of the Powsail and the Tweed, and not far -from the ruined castle of the Hays of Drummelzier, is another grave of -which tradition has much to say—that of “Merlin the Wild”, who -prophesied on the spot the Union of the Kingdoms. - -Beyond Drummelzier and Broughton, an estate and parish which in the -eighteenth century belonged to two historical personages of dubious -repute—“Secretary Murray” of the ’45 and M‘Queen of Braxfield, -Stevenson’s “Lord Justice Clerk”—the Tweed is found to have dwindled -almost to the dimensions of a moorland burn, enclosed among smooth brown -“hills of sheep”. Smaller streams pour down in headlong course on either -hand; and there are not wanting places of historic and literary note by -the river banks and in the tributary valleys. Every burn and haugh has -its story of old feuds, in which Frasers and Tweedies, Hunters and -Murrays, Scotts and Hays, and other clans of Upper Clydesdale have had a -part; and “forts” and “rings” and “chesters” are plentifully sprinkled -on the hill-tops. They are especially rife on the heights looking down -on the Holms water, which comes from the grassy and heathery folds of -Culter Fell and Cardon, and, after joining the Broughton burn, falls -into the Tweed below Rachan. For in this neighbourhood, by the “Pass of -Corscrine”, ran for a time the frontiers of the Kingdom, as fixed -between Edward I and Edward Baliol. Like many other old families of the -district, the Geddeses of Rachan, “chiefs of the name”, passed out of -the Upper Tweed in poverty and litigation. The like fate, or worse, -befell the Murrays of Stanhope, whose representative, after the laird -who lost his head in the ’45, was the “Judas” of the Rebellion, for whom -Scott’s father showed his contempt, by flinging out of the window the -cup from which his caller had partaken of tea in George Square. The fact -that they claimed to have received their lands, “for a Bow and a Broad -Arrow, when the King comes to hunt in Yarrow”, from Malcolm Canmore did -not prevent the Hunters from parting with the estate of Polmood, after -one of the longest lawsuits in the annals of even the Scots law. - -Stanhope and Polmood have streams tumbling down to Tweed from the -heights of Dollar Law and Broad Law, 2800 feet above sea-level; and on -the opposite, or right bank, above the fragment of Wrae Castle, which -once belonged to the Tweedies, is the site of “Lincumdoddie”, where -dwelt “Willie Wastle’s wife”, whose face, according to Burns’s song, -“wad fyle the Logan Water”, which runs by it. Beyond the Kinkledoors -burn is the “Crook Inn”, beloved by the many anglers who have sought -sport and recreation in this solitude among the hills, where, besides -Tweed itself, there are many wild side streams—Hearthstane, Menzion, -Fruid, and Fingland; Glencraigie, Glenbreck, and Glencor—frequented by -brown and yellow trout. But, chief of all, there is the Talla, which, -from its springs in lonely Gameshope, rushes down the rocks at Talla -Linnfoot, and rests in the two-mile-long reservoir of the Edinburgh -Water Company, before joining the Tweed at Tweedsmuir Church, nearly -opposite the scant remains of Oliver Castle, where the Frasers first -planted themselves on Tweedside. - -The Frasers had fled the scene long before the Hunters and the Hays, the -Geddeses and the Tweedies, and other families have succeeded and -followed them in their flight. Few, and set far apart, are houses and -“bields” of any kind, on the lonely road that keeps high up the hillside -above the valley floor, until, at “Tweed’s Well”, passing over into -Annandale, it parts company with the “Scott Country”. - - - - - Footnotes - - -[1]“Penmanscore” is the correct reading, though “Permanscore” is given - in the _Minstrelsy_. - - - - - BEAUTIFUL ENGLAND AND SCOTLAND - -This series of beautifully illustrated volumes has been re-issued in -handy size. It is an admirable record of what is most worthy of -attention in some of our fairest places. Each book contains 12 -reproductions of original water-colour paintings by E. W. Haslehust, -R.B.A., in addition to descriptive text. - - _Attractively Produced_ _Coloured Jacket_ - - _Descriptive Text by_ - The Thames. G. E. Mitton. - Bath and Wells. Arthur L. Salmon. - The Peak District. R. Murray Gilchrist. - In London’s By-Ways. Walter Jerrold. - Winchester. Sidney Heath. - The Shores of Fife. John Geddie. - Heart of London. Walter Jerrold. - Cornish Riviera. Sidney Heath. - Loch Lomond. George Eyre-Todd. - Dartmoor. Arthur L. Salmon. - Edinburgh. John Geddie. - Canterbury. Canon Danks. - Shakespeare-Land. Walter Jerrold. - The Scott Country. John Geddie. - Oxford. F. D. How. - Cambridge. Noel Barwell. - York. George Benson. - English Lakes. A. G. Bradley. - - - - - Transcriber’s Notes - - ---Research into publication date and location determined that this book - is in the public domain. - ---Corrected a few palpable typographical errors. - - - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Scott Country, by John Geddie - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE SCOTT COUNTRY *** - -***** This file should be named 52345-0.txt or 52345-0.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/5/2/3/4/52345/ - -Produced by Stephen Hutcheson, Dave Morgan and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - -Title: The Scott Country - Beautiful Scotland - -Author: John Geddie - -Illustrator: Ernest William Haslehust - -Release Date: June 15, 2016 [EBook #52345] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE SCOTT COUNTRY *** - - - - -Produced by Stephen Hutcheson, Dave Morgan and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net - - - - - - - [Illustration: NEWARK TOWER] - - - - - THE - SCOTT COUNTRY - - - Described by John Geddie - Painted by E. W. Haslehust, R.B.A. - - [Illustration: (uncaptioned)] - - BLACKIE & SON LIMITED - LONDON AND GLASGOW - - Blackie & Son Limited - _50 Old Bailey, London_ - _17 Stanhope Street, Glasgow_ - - Blackie & Son (India) Limited - _Warwick House, Fort Street, Bombay_ - - Blackie & Son (Canada) Limited - _Toronto_ - - - - - BEAUTIFUL ENGLAND - - - The Heart of London. - Dartmoor. - Canterbury. - Oxford. - Bath and Wells. - In London's By-ways. - The Peak District. - Winchester. - The Thames. - The Cornish Riviera. - Shakespeare-land. - Cambridge. - York. - The English Lakes. - - BEAUTIFUL SCOTLAND - - - Loch Lomond and the Trossachs. - Edinburgh. - The Scott Country. - The Shores of Fife. - - - _Printed in Great Britain by Blackie & Son, Ltd., Glasgow_ - - - - - LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS - - - Facing Page - Newark Tower _Frontispiece_ - Kelso Bridge 5 - Smailholm Tower 12 - Roxburgh Castle 16 - Branxholm Tower 21 - Dryburgh Abbey 28 - Bemersyde House 33 - Melrose Abbey 37 - Abbotsford 44 - Traquair House 48 - Ashestiel House 55 - Neidpath Castle 62 - - [Illustration: KELSO: THE RIVER TWEED AND ABBEY RUINS] - - - - - THE SCOTT COUNTRY - - - [Illustration: THE SCOTT COUNTRY] - -Where--and what--is the "Scott Country"? Edinburgh--his birthplace, the -centre of his literary and legal activities, the scene of _The Heart of -Midlothian_ and of the _Chronicles of the Canongate_, his "own romantic -town"--might surely claim to enclose, if not the kernel, an essential -part of the interest that surrounds the fame and the name of Sir Walter. -Around it, between the Pentlands and Lammermoors and the sea, is -territory immortally associated with the life and the works of the -"Master of Romance"--Lasswade and Roslin, Borthwick and Crichton, -"Goblin Ha'" and Prestonpans, - - "Auchendinny's hazel glade - And haunted Woodhouselee", - -Linlithgow Palace on the western and "Wolfs Crag" on the eastern -boundary of Lothian. Fife, on the strength of its possessions of -Dunfermline, Falkland, St. Andrews, and other storied sites, might put -forward a title to be ranked as a province of the Scott Country. So -might Perthshire, by virtue of the "Fair City" and its "Fair Maid", and -joint ownership, with Stirling and Dumbarton, of entrancing scenes on -Loch Katrine, Loch Ard, and Loch Lomond. Forfarshire also, wherein is -placed the best remembered of the passages in _The Antiquary_, and even -the distant Orkneys and Shetlands, have felt the touch of the Wizard's -wand. - -Nor, in the briefest survey of the lands of Scott Romance, can one -overlook the crumbling castles and the rugged shores once ruled by the -"Lord of the Isles"; or the banks of the Clyde and Douglas Water; or the -opposing shores of the Solway; or Redesdale and Teesdale, Gilsland and -Triermain. The Peak District, Sherwood Forest, and the Marches of Wales; -Kenilworth, and Woodstock, and even London streets themselves might -tender a case for inclusion; while, looking farther afield, one is -reminded that the genius of Walter Scott has cast its spell over the -Ardennes and Touraine, Switzerland, Constantinople, and the Palestine of -the Crusades. - -These are, for the most part, merely excursions of a spirit whose -abiding home or favourite haunt was the Valley of the Tweed and its -encircling hills. Edinburgh itself, where there are so many rival -memories, does not recall the author of _Waverley_ so instantly and -intimately to our thoughts and affections as Abbotsford; and the triple -Eildon, rather than Arthur's Seat, is the "high place" of the Scott -cult. If he brought a new glory to the Border Country, it was the Border -Country that "made him", as a man still more than as a writer; and he is -the most typical, as he is the most honoured, of its many famous sons. - -The greatest as well as - - "The last of all the Bards was he - Who sung of Border chivalry". - -The pull of the blood has in this instance proved more potent than that -of birth and early environment; although Walter Scott was from his -childhood, at Sandyknowe and Kelso, familiar with Border scenes, as well -as steeped in Border lore. At a later stage in his growth, lame as he -was, with Shortreed and other congenial companions he tramped the glens -and climbed the hills and hill-passes of Tweedside, gathering and -storing as he went its history and romance for the delight of future -generations, - - "Giving each rock its storied tale, - Pouring a lay for every dale, - Knitting, as with a moral band, - His native legends with his land, - To lend each scene the interest high - Which Genius beams from Beauty's eye." - -But while he knew by heart the whole Borderland, and had explored its -chief river from where - - "Tweed, Annan, and Clyde - A' rise in ae hill-side", - -to where it enters the sea, under the time- and war-battered walls of -the ancient town of Berwick, there were parts of the Tweed and its -tributaries that he knew better than others. There is, in the eyes of -Scott devotees, an Inner Circle, a "Holy of Holies", of the Scott -Country, and, fortunately for the pilgrim to these shrines, its centre -lies where the main lines of road and rail, like those of -river-drainage, converge around the meeting-place of Ettrick, Gala, and -Leader with Tweed--under the shadow of the Eildon Hills and beside those -two "miraculous" products of the hand and brain of man--Melrose Abbey -and Abbotsford House. The creative art, in prose and verse, of the Great -Magician was not often exercised on the chief stream higher up than -Neidpath and Manor, or, at farthest, "Merlin's Grave", beside -Drummelzier and under Tinnis. Nor did his genius much frequent the lower -courses of Tweed, below Kelso Bridge and Wark Castle, and the inflow of -the "sullen Till", although here also are many scenes of beauty and -pages of story that might well have set his imagination afire. It seems -more at home, also, in the valleys of the Teviot, the Ettrick, and the -Yarrow than on the Leader, the Gala, and other northern affluents of the -Tweed. Accident and propinquity may have helped to determine his choice -of scene and theme; but old associations and affinities may have done -still more. The nearer the Border line of the Cheviots, the thicker are -footprints of the clan and national frays of old--of battles and -skirmishes in which Scott's own ancestry took more than their share; and -the deeper and richer the soil of tradition in which he delighted to -delve. To the Teviot, the Borthwick, and the Ettrick--to Branxholm and -Harden, Rankleburn and Newark--he was drawn by the call of the blood of -his father's race; an equal tie bound him to the Jed, the old home of -his mother's kin, the "hot and hardy Rutherfords"; while Yarrow, the -heart of his Forest Sheriffdom, is also the core of its ballad poetry. -It has to be remembered, also, that the period of Scott's greatest -literary output was also the period of failing physical powers, and that -journeys through his beloved Borderland had to be more and more -circumscribed to beaten paths of easy access. - -It was by Kelso Bridge, beside where the wand of the Wizard Michael -Scott "bridled the Tweed with a curb of stone", that, in the fresh -morning of youth, the spell of the great Border river first fell on -Walter Scott. His kinsfolk lived in the neighbourhood; and several of -them are buried in the Abbey Aisle. His great-grandfather and namesake, -the Jacobite "Beardie" who had fought at Killiecrankie, had occupied a -house in the Coalmarket; his kindly Aunt Janet resided in what is now -called Waverley Lodge; his uncle, Captain Robert Scott, a lover and -collecter of books, had his home at Rosebank, which he bequeathed to Sir -Walter, who--"his poverty not his will consenting"--sold this house of -many memories, along with "thirty acres of the most fertile land in -Scotland". - -Only a few miles away, beside the stark and far-seen old keep of -Smailholm, was the farm of Sandyknowe, leased from Scott of Harden by -his grandfather Robert Scott, to which, between the ages of three and -eleven, the little boy from Edinburgh came annually for holidays. -Everyone remembers the lines that record the impression made on his -youthful mind by his "barren scene and wild"--by the tall, grey, -weather-beaten tower looking down from its rock upon the lone lochan, -and out and away over many scenes of Border romance to "the distant -Cheviots blue"; and of the legends of foray and strife that were told in -the boy's wondering ears by the "aged hind", and that took shape -afterwards in "The Eve of St. John" and other tales of the Master. - -What more natural than that young Walter, "become rather delicate from -overgrowth" and threatened with permanent lameness, should be sent, -while twelve or thirteen years of age, to his Kelso relatives for -change, outdoor freedom, and recruitment? He went to the Grammar School -as pupil, and even for a time as usher, under the Rector, Lancelot -Whale, from whom are drawn some of the traits of "Dominie Sampson". He -delighted his master by his recitation of the "Speech of Galgacus", and -beguiled his school companions from their lessons by his tales of old -romance. He read, in the arbour of his aunt's old-fashioned garden, or -under the ancient elm that still survives, Bishop Percy's _Reliques_, -the identical copy of which is in Kelso Library. Among his fellow-pupils -were the Ballantynes, James and John, a fateful conjunction, for out of -a hint dropped in a talk with the elder of these old schoolmates grew -the _Scottish Border Minstrelsy_--the first two volumes of which were -the earliest issued from the Kelso "Ballantyne Press", in 1802--and much -else of note in Scott's career and fortunes. A biographer may well say -that it was "here he began to gather up his intellectual gains and make -his friendly conquests". Kelso gave bent and direction to his genius. - -Like Smailholm, Kelso was "meet nurse for a poetic child", for here join -two "superb rivers"--Tweed and Teviot--each bringing down, from a -hundred sources, its treasure of ancient story. As we have said, the -beauty and romance of Tweedside do not begin in this neighbourhood. They -are the endowment of the main stream from its tap-root to the sea. -Berwick-upon-Tweed, for centuries a cause of contention between the -Kingdoms, was at one time regarded as separate and apart from -each--"England, Scotland, and the town of Berwick-upon-Tweed". Since the -fifteenth century, however, it has territorially belonged to England, -although situated on the north bank of the river. Its Edwardian and -Elizabethan walls--the former recently placed, along with the venerable -Bell Tower, the symbol of Berwick Liberties, under the protection of the -Board of Works as a national relic and for preservation against the -attacks of vandalism--enfold a sheaf of history. Few places have been -the scenes of more furious sieges and merciless captures. Its bridge of -fifteen arches, built before the Civil Wars and upheld for centuries -from State funds, connects the town with Tweedmouth and Spittal to the -south, although it is of small account, as a bond of union and means of -traffic, compared with its upstream neighbour, the Royal Border Bridge, -which carries the railway lines between England and Scotland. - - [Illustration: SMAILHOLM TOWER] - -A mile or two higher up, but still into tide-water, flows in the -Whitadder, which with its tributary, the Blackadder, comes out of the -recesses of the Lammermoors to drain the fertile Merse, passing on its -way many scenes that must have tempted Sir Walter to make its valley the -stage of one of his romances. His fancy may have played with the idea. -But beyond an occasional allusion, or the dispatch of one or two of his -characters through it, in hot haste for some other arena of action, he -never specifically annexed this heritage of the Humes and earlier Lords -of Dunbar and Merse to the "Scott Country", though some have attempted -to identify Cranshaws Castle or Wedderlie with Ravenswood. Wedderburn -recalls the "Seven Spears". Polwarth and Marchmont, Ninewells and -Nisbet, Kimmerghame and Langton, Edrington and Hutton, Chirnside and -Bunkle, Duns and Greenlaw, are names steeped in the spirit of Border -poetry as well as noted in local and national annals. The valleys in -which lie Abbey St. Bathans, on the Whitadder, Priestlaw, on the Faseny, -and Longformacus, on the Dye, seem to beckon for an interpreter of their -almost forgotten stories; while that of the mysterious "Edinhall", on -Cockburn Law, the largest and most southerly of Scottish "brochs", is -wholly lost. At Ellemford, James IV was brought to a halt, in the futile -"Raid of Ellem"; and his descendant Charles I came to a turning-point in -his fortunes when he was faced by the Covenanting Host, encamped on Duns -Law. From Haliburton, hard by the "Blackadder Rings", Scott derived one -line of his descent. Yet this region of the Merse serves at most only as -a background in his Border Romance. - -Higher up the main stream, beyond Paxton, and Horncliffe, and Horndean, -one comes to Ladykirk, whose fine old sixteenth-century church is said -to have been founded and dedicated to the Virgin in gratitude for an -escape from drowning in the Tweed. Behind it is Swinton, the home of an -ancient and knightly family from which Sir Walter was descended, on his -mother's side. Over against it are the "castled steep" and "flanking -walls" of Norham, the guardian of England and of the heritage of the -Prince-Bishops of Durham, to the siege of which "Mons Meg" has travelled -in her day--the scene, too, of quarrels and of conferences, at one of -which Edward I decided between the rival claims of the "Competitors" for -the Crown of Scotland. - -At Tillmouth and Twizell Castle, where the Till brings down waters--Glen -and Bowmount, Breamish and College--drawn from both skirts of Cheviot, -one is close to ground yet more closely bound to the tragedy of the -Kingdoms and to the genius of Scott, for near here is Ford Castle, where -the Scottish King is supposed to have dallied too long with Lady Heron; -the bridge across which he allowed the English van to cross and attack -him on flank; and the hill-slope of Flodden, down which, in 1513, - - "From his mountain home - King James did rushing come"-- - -to meet disaster half-way, and to fall in the midst of the flower of his -nobles and of his kingdom. - -At Coldstream, Longshanks crossed the Tweed on the fatal enterprise of -invading and subduing Scotland; Leslie, on his way to join Cromwell at -Marston Moor, and Monk on the march to proclaim Charles II in London. -Wark Castle, in which, according to tradition, the Order of the Garter -was instituted--with Carham beside it, where, at a much more distant -date, a generation before Macbeth, Malcolm II, King of Scots, won a -victory that brought the boundary of his realm in permanence to the -Tweed--stands within easy reach of Kelso. So also, on the opposite or -Scottish bank, does Birgham, the soil on which William the Lion and the -Scots prelates disowned the supremacy of the English Church, and where -was signed the Treaty for that projected marriage of the heirs of the -two Kingdoms--Prince Edward and the Maid of Norway--which, but for evil -chance, might have united them without the intervention of three -centuries of desolating war. - -But it is at Kelso Bridge, below the meeting of Tweed and Teviot, that -we come fully within the circle of the Magician's charm--where every -stream and wood and glen seems to take light and colour from the -imagination of Walter Scott. The scene has been admired and praised by a -host of poets and travellers before and since his time. Burns looked -down upon it from different points of view and owned himself -"enchanted". It has been extolled by, among others, James Thomson, of -the _Seasons_, who was born at Ednam Manse on the Eden Water, only two -or three miles away, and by Thomas Pringle, Scott's fellow-pupil at -Kelso and the first editor of _Blackwood_, who sang, from the South -African veld, of "Bonnie Teviotdale and Teviot's mountains blue". The -parent river makes a wide sweep, and, with its bold wooded banks, seems -to embrace and protect the houses of the little market town, in the -midst of which rise the ruined western towers and a fragment of the nave -of the renowned Tyronesian Abbey. The place, standing so perilously near -the English border, was guarded on the south and on the north by two -great strongholds. Of Roxburgh or Marchmont Castle, on the narrow ridge -between Tweed and Teviot, only a few walls, rising a few yards above the -sod, remain. Its history would fill a volume. But one remembers chiefly -that James II of Scots--he of the "Fiery Face"--was killed by the -explosion of a cannon, while directing attack upon it from the farther -bank of the Tweed, leaving the country, as was so often its fortune -under the Stewart Dynasty, to the hazards of a long minority. On the -town of Roxburgh--which once, as one of the "Four Burghs", was a leader -in the path of municipal and commercial progress--a more sweeping fate -has descended; not a stone has been left above another on a site upon -which for long was held "St. James's Lammas Fair". - - [Illustration: ROXBURGH CASTLE] - -Hume Castle, Kelso's other bulwark--or, if it happened to be in the -hands of an enemy, its thorn in the flesh--stands on high ground to the -north, where its square-set form, now reduced to a shell, can be seen -from all parts of the ground that lies between the Lammermoor and -Cheviot. But the town had strength within itself in its great Norman -Abbey Church, built for purposes of war as well as of prayer. It was -founded by that zealous abbey- and cathedral-rearer, David I, the son of -Canmore and of Saint Margaret; and its head, as a mitred abbot who -acknowledged only the jurisdiction of the Holy See, held a position that -gave him a precedence, much envied and much resented, over the superiors -of the neighbouring religious houses of Jedburgh, Dryburgh, and Melrose. -It was endowed with rich benefices and wide territories, but its wealth -and glory all vanished in the storms of the Reformation, or, more -ruthless still, of the English invasions and the Civil Wars. - -A large part of the Abbey heritage has passed to the Kers, of the ducal -house of Roxburghe, whose stately seat, Floors Castle, planned by -Vanbrugh and completed by Playfair, commands from its terraces one of -the widest and loveliest views upon Tweed. Of the Kers of Cessford, who -had feuds with the rival branch of the Kerrs of Ferniehirst, as well as -with the Scotts and other neighbours, it has been said that they had a -genius for fighting on the winning side: "When the power of the -Douglases on the Border began to crumble, they became Crown vassals, and -their fortunes mounted rapidly. They won new lands, and held, and still -hold, the old. They kept a hawk's eye on the wild tracts of moor and -pasture and peat bog, where even in the old days of foray there was, as -Dandie Dinmont said, 'mair stabling for horses than change-houses for -men', and where now all is utterly abandoned to the curlew and the -sheep. But they moved their household gods, and extended their bounds, -from the Bowmont to the Kale, from the Kale to the Teviot, and finally -from the Teviot to the Tweed." Their ruined castle of Cessford stands in -a lonely place, on a slope overhanging a little side-glen of the Kale -Water, some eight miles from Floors. The roof is gone, and all about is -bare and deserted. A few sapling ashes grow in the crannies of the -stone, but time has riven the thick walls which Surrey, in 1523, found -so hard to breach, and has thrown down the grand old Crow Tree that -stood so long beside Habbie Ker's stronghold. Long before this the -family had flitted to a warmer nest, and had feathered it with the -spoils of Old Roxburgh Castle and of Kelso Abbey. - -Scarcely less than Melrose and Abbotsford are Kelso and Floors the -centre of a sanctuary of Border romance; and over the scene the forms of -Hume Castle and Smailholm Tower seem to keep sentry-watch and to "shift -places mysteriously, like the triple heads of the weird Eildons, as if -they were pacing guard upon the hilltops". In the setting of the picture -revealed from these vantage-grounds are--along with places already -noted--the hanging woods of Stichell and Newtondon; Nenthorn, -Hendersyde, Mellerstain, Makerstoun; beyond Teviot, the rich woodlands -of Springwood, Woodendean, and Sunlaws; the darker pine trees around the -hunting seat of Bowmont Forest; the folds in which lie the "Gypsy -capital" of Kirk Yetholm, the ancient Kirk of Linton, Eckford of the -Douglases and Crailing of the Cranstons; the hills of Hounam and -Morebattle; and, behind all, the soft blue line, rising high in Great -Cheviot and sinking away towards the west, of the chain that divides the -kingdoms, with peeps here and there of Haddon Rig, and Ruberslaw, and -Dunion, and Minto Crags, and Penielheugh, crowned by its Waterloo -monument, with other scarce less famous Border heights. - -While, above the junction, the ascending valley of the Tweed holds its -way westwards, so that the water-sheds of its northern tributaries are -in common with those of streams flowing to the Forth and the Clyde, -Teviotdale keeps throughout a line that is parallel with the Marches of -the Kingdoms, from which its main channel is nowhere more than a dozen -miles away as the crow flies. It follows that there is more of hazard, -and with this more of romance, crowded into its annals than perhaps into -those of any other area of like extent. It is sprinkled over with -battlefields and with peel towers, most of them now in ruin; every dale -has been the scene of a fray, and every burn has a song or ballad tacked -to its name. These Middle and West Marches were a centre of power and -action, first of the House of Douglas, and then of the "Bauld -Buccleuch". The "Good Sir James of Douglas" kept the peace of this -troubled frontier for the Bruce; his son, the "Knight of Liddesdale", -expelled the English from Teviotdale, and was killed while hunting in -Ettrick Forest; his grandson, the first of the Douglas Earls, also -chased out the invaders and brought back spoils from the English side; -his great-grandson, the second Earl, captured Percy's pennon at -Newcastle, and was slain at Otterburn, while riding home by the road of -Redesdale and the Carter Bar with his prey; while it is of a later -descendant, "Earl Tineman", captured at Shrewsbury by a later Hotspur, -that the canny saying is quoted in _The Fortunes of Nigel_: "Poortith -(poverty) takes away pith, and the man sits full still who has a rent in -his breeks". - - [Illustration: BRANXHOLM TOWER] - -A Scott of Buccleuch accompanied James V when he hanged Johnnie -Armstrong of Gilnockie and all his company at Carlenrig near Teviothead; -and the "rank reiver's" reproach, given in one version of the ballad, -was not without edge: - - "Now haud your tongue, Sir Walter Scott, - Nor speak o' reif and felonie; - If ilka man had his ain coo, - A richt poor clan your name would be." - -It was from Branxholm, on the Teviot above Hawick, that another Scott of -the name--generation after generation were Walters--rode forth to rescue -"Kinmont Willie" from prison in Carlisle. The Minstrel's tale, in the -_Lay_, opens at and returns again and again to Branxholm Ha'; it was at -the Tower Inn, at Hawick, where the Duchess Anne of Buccleuch and -Monmouth held her receptions, and that the greatest of all the Sir -Walters parted from his guests the Wordsworths. - -It is a land dedicated to the achievements of Douglases and Scotts, but -that resounds also with the deeds of Elliots and Armstrongs, and of -minor and broken clans, Turnbulls and Rutherfords, Cranstouns and -Olivers. It has its rich endowment of beauty as well as of history. -Around the keep of Branxholm, which from the deep bank overhanging the -stream has often defied its enemies, have gathered buildings of more -recent date and a screen of ancient trees. Below it is the Tower of -Goldilands, where a marauding Scott was hanged at his own gate, and here -comes in from the left the Borthwick Water. As Leyden has it: - - "Where Bortha hoarse, that loads the meads with sand, - Rolls her red tide to Teviot's western strand, - Through slaty hills, whose sides are shagged with thorn, - And springs in scattered tufts the dark-green corn, - Towers wood-girt Harden, far above the vale"-- - -Harden, the cradle of the branch of the Scotts from which the author of -the _Lay_ was descended; the "mountain home", hidden in its narrow glen, -to which the "Flower of Yarrow" was brought by "Auld Wat"--"a wide -domain, and rich, had purple heath been grain". - -At the town of Hawick, Teviot meets Slitrig, coming from the wild bounds -of Liddisdale. All roads in Teviotdale seem to lead to Hawick, the -capital of its trade as well as a centre of its history. Proud as its -citizens are of the leading position of the burgh in the tweed and -hosiery manufacture of the South of Scotland, and of the undiminished -importance of its great lamb and sheep fairs, they are prouder still of -the prowess of its sons in the dark days that followed Flodden, and in -other scenes of Border strife. Scott was familiar with its story, as -with the streets and with the steep hills that surround this stirring -little metropolis of industrial and pastoral life; and allusion has -already been made to the literary and legendary memories attached to the -site of the Tower in which the Douglases of Drumlanrig entertained their -guests and protected their rights. From the parish church of St. Mary, -since often rebuilt, the heroic Ramsay of Dalhousie was carried away by -the Knight of Liddisdale, to be immured and to suffer a lingering death -in the Douglas hold of Hermitage-- - - "Did ever knight so foul a deed?" - -An older memorial of the past of Hawick is the Motehill, on which -justice was dispensed, and an outlook kept for enemies, in times beyond -the range even of tradition. The great "Hawick Tradition" of the capture -of the standard of the English marauders at Hornshole is kept green by -the annual ceremony of the "Common Riding", when Hawick is to be seen in -its gayest and most jubilant mood. The words and tune of its slogan of -"Teribus ye Teriodin" are supposed to have descended to it from heathen -times, and to have originally been an invocation to the gods of the -early Saxons and Norsemen--Thor and Odin. The defiant spirit of these -warriors of old seems still to ring in the chaunt sung by the Cornet and -his men as they ride round the marches in the beginning of June: - - "Teribus ye Teriodin, - Sons of heroes slain at Flodden, - Imitating Border Bowmen, - Aye defend your rights and Common." - -A few miles up the Slitrig is Stobs Castle, an ancient seat of the -Elliots, which became a military centre during the Great European War; -and there are many other places of note and fame on the once hazardous -way, now followed by the railway, that leads across the hills to the -head-streams of the Liddel and thence to those of the North Tyne, or to -the "Debatable Land", the Solway, and Carlisle. Another crowd of warlike -memories and of pastoral and woodland charms awaits those who, from -Hawick, or from the old Douglas seat of Cavers, lower down Teviotdale, -explore the Hobkirk valley, or pass over the skirts of Ruberslaw into -Rule Water--to Bonchester and to Hobkirk, where Thomson planned his -_Seasons_, and to Southdean, where the poet spent his early years, and -to the Carter Bar and the Border. - -A few miles below Hawick, past Hornshole and past Denholm, the -birthplace of John Leyden--the poet, the Oriental scholar, the friend of -Scott, whose "brief and bright career" closed too soon in the Malay -East--below "dark Ruberslaw" and the Dunion, which interposes its -round-backed form between the "mining Rule" and the "crystal Jed", and -more directly under the Minto Crags and the Chesters moors, lies one of -the loveliest bits on Teviot. Haughs and dells, green hills and wide -sweeps of river spread around the fragments of Fatlips Castle, whose -owner, a Turnbull, dwelt - - "Mid cliffs from whence his eagle eye - Full many a league his prey could spy"; - -and around Minto House, the home, since the Union, of the Elliots, a -race great in law and in war, in song and in statecraft, with whom, -through their descent from "Gibbie with the Gowden Garters", a daughter -of Harden, Sir Walter could "count kin". Jed Water and Ale Water come in -from south and north, farther down, and here, too, every foot is famous. -The "Minstrel" sings of scenes, on the track of William of Deloraine, -"good at need", among them - - "Ancient Riddel's fair domain, - Where Aill, from mountains freed, - Down from the lakes did raving come; - Each wave was crested with tawny foam, - Like the mane of a chestnut steed". - -The inflow of this turbulent stream is below the fine old -tree-surrounded Ancrum House. It is overshadowed by Penielheugh and by -the ridge of Lilliard's Edge, across which the main road from Carlisle, -that has followed the course of the Teviot almost from its source, toils -painfully over to the valley of the Tweed. On a day in 1545, Ancrum Moor - - "Ran red with English blood, - Where the Douglas true and the bold Buccleuch - 'Gainst keen Lord Evers stood"-- - -a victory to which, according to traditions, "fair Maid Lilliard" -contributed manfully, until, like a hero of "Chevy Chase", she "fought -upon her stumps". - -Jed Water is still more charged with the history and legends of the -past. Much of it, including Jedburgh Abbey, is the patrimony of the -branch of the Kerrs represented by the Marquis of Lothian, whose modern -seat, Mount Teviot, lies opposite Jedfoot, while the ancient home of the -family, Ferniehirst, begins to run to decay. It would take many pages to -do justice--even "Jeddart justice"--to Jedburgh, whose townsfolk, armed -with their "Jeddart staves" and to their slogan of "Jeddart's Here!" -were in the front of the Border Wars. Its Abbey, founded by David the -Saint, who placed here Augustinian canons from Beauvais early in the -twelfth century, is still, in spite of having been seven times burned, -the stateliest and the best preserved of the medival religious houses -of the Scott Country. The site of the Royal Castle, where in the "Golden -Age" of the Borders Alexander III held court after his second marriage, -has disappeared under public buildings; but the house in the Backgate is -pointed out where Mary Queen of Scots lay sick to death after her -perilous ride to Hermitage, as well as the lodging in the Castlegate -occupied by Prince Charlie on his march into England. - -His road lay over a shoulder of Carter Fell into Redesdale, where runs -what is still the only way across the hills for wheeled traffic in the -sixty miles between Wooler, on the Till, and Riccarton, on the Liddel, -although the Romans built over the Cheviots paved roads, one of which -descended into the head of Kale Water, and, from the site of the old -Border Trysts at Pennymuir, ran straight as a ruled line to the camp of -Newstead, under Eildon. From end to end these hills are deserted, except -by the shepherd and the sportsman. Along the "wild and willowed shore" -of Teviot and of Jed, the "glaring balefires blaze no more". The race of -the mosstroopers--of "John o' the Side" and "Christie's Will", the -"Laird's Jock" and "Hobbie Noble"--is long extinct. But there are still -to be found fine products of the soil, of the type of the stalwart -tenant of Charlieshope. The Border spirit may have run into -manufactures, and pastoral and arable farming, and Kirk and State -contentions, but anyone who fancies it is dead should attend a "Common -Riding", or an otter or fox-hunt, or a game of curling or of hand- or -foot-ball in these parts; or a meeting or parting of Hawick "Teeries" or -of "Jedburgh callants". He will doubt no more. - -Dryburgh Abbey is less than ten miles distant from Jedburgh, in a -straight line. But there are marked features distinguishing it from its -Teviotdale neighbour as well as from the Abbeys standing below and above -it on Tweedside--Kelso and Melrose. It was planted in its corner of -Berwickshire by baronial and not by kingly beneficence, its founder -being the great Hugh de Morville, in David's time Constable of Scotland -and Lord of Lauderdale, whose tomb is near the site of the high altar. -It was smaller in size and less richly endowed than the other three, but -is not less generously invested with historic and legendary interest. -Its fate and condition are not dissimilar, for like the others it was -many times burned and ravaged in the Border wars, and was afterwards -abandoned for centuries to neglect and decay. These Tweedside monastic -houses have now fallen upon happier times; for, apart from the reverence -they have gathered from the past, and not least from their association -with Sir Walter Scott, they have lately become national possessions, -through the generosity of the Duke of Roxburghe at Kelso, of the Duke of -Buccleuch at Melrose, and of Lord Glenconner at Dryburgh. The -Prmonstratensian Abbey on the bend of the Tweed under Bemerside Hill -differs from its rivals in respect that it has preserved more of the -monastic buildings and less of the church. Of Dryburgh Abbey -Church--apart from the north transept, of which more has to be -said--little is left beyond the gables of the south transept and of the -west front, the latter pierced by a five-light window, surmounting some -ruined walls, and the foundations of piers. But the chapter house--St. -Modan's chapel--is extant, and its vaulted roof covers interesting -architectural and archological details, while of the cloisters, -sacristy, fratery, and other domestic buildings of the "White Friars" of -Dryburgh there are considerable remains, clad in ivy and overhung by -immemorial yews and other trees. Enough survives to indicate a structure -of much grace and beauty, showing a great range of styles from -Romanesque to Later Pointed, and built of a local reddish sandstone -which, as at Melrose, has weathered into a rich and harmonious variety -of colour. - - [Illustration: DRYBURGH ABBEY: THE TOMB OF SIR WALTER SCOTT] - -It is, however, in its situation and in its happy blending with its -immediate surroundings that Dryburgh is chiefly distinguished from its -compeers. It is secluded from the world, on the margin of the wide -stream; hidden among woods and overlooked by hills. To reach it you have -to circumvent rivers and climb up and down steep braes. The easiest way -of approach is by crossing Lessudden Bridge, from the south bank of the -Tweed above the tower of Littledean. This was the road followed by the -"bold Baron" of Smailholm, whose tower and Beacon Hill, and the standing -stones on the moor of Brotherstone, look down from the eastern and -northern skyline on the scene - - "Over Tweed's fair flood, and Mertoun's wood, - And all down Teviotdale". - -By Mertoun's wood, the screen of Dryburgh from gales blowing from the -sea, and now the property of Lord Polwarth, a Scott of the Harden blood, -the way winds to the Abbey precincts, overshadowed by the great trees -that surround Dryburgh House. Naturally the feet first seek the tomb of -Sir Walter in St. Mary's Aisle. The story of how the best beloved of the -sons of the Border came to be laid under this fragment of the north -transept and choir--a well-preserved piece of elegant First Pointed -work--is itself a romance. His grandmother on the father's side, Barbara -Haliburton, was the daughter of a Merse laird, who was owner of part of -the lands of Dryburgh, including the Abbey ruins. She became his -inheritor; but before then Robert Haliburton had lost his lands through -unwise speculation. David Erskine, eleventh Earl of Buchan--brother of -Lord Chancellor Erskine and of Harry Erskine, the brilliant wit and -pleader--who has left the impress of his eccentric mind on the colossal -statue of Wallace which stands, "frowning towards England", above his -suspension bridge for foot passengers crossing the Tweed from St. -Boswells, became possessor of the ground; and, through Lady Scott, -obtained a promise from the author of _Waverley_ that he should be -buried in this kindred earth. Lady Scott died in 1826, and Buchan in -1829, while Sir Walter himself was not laid here until 26th September, -1832. In his fragment of "Autobiography", Scott records how he had come -to his own again in this twice-hallowed spot; and, with a touch of -prophecy as well as pathos, he wrote: "And thus we have nothing left of -Dryburgh, although my father's maternal inheritance, but the right of -stretching our bones where mine may perhaps be laid ere any eye but my -own glances over these pages." Nowhere--not even in Melrose--could the -Wizard rest more tranquilly than in this scene where nature and art, the -present and the past, and life and death seem to be brought into perfect -accord. - -The funeral cortge, coming from Abbotsford, crossed the Tweed and -Leader at Leaderfoot, and climbing, past Gladswood, by a road with which -Scott was familiar, halted where he had often halted, and where -multitudes have halted since, at a bold and sharp elbow of the path, -raised three hundred feet above the river, whence an unrivalled view can -be had into the heart of the Scott Country. Immediately below, across -the stream, on a peninsula of land washed on three sides by the Tweed, -is Old Melrose, a spot which had gathered sanctity many centuries before -the medival abbeys rose in the valley. Here a mission station of the -Christian faith was planted from distant Iona; and hence, probably, -travelled Aidan to convert heathen Northumbria and to found Lindisfarne -and Hexham; here dwelt, as first abbot, his companion Eata, and also -Boisel, who gave his name to St. Boswell's opposite, and to whom came -for instruction Cuthbert, a shepherd lad who had been reared at -Wrangham, near Brotherstone, and had tended his flock and seen visions -in the Lammermoors. From "Mailros", the bald promontory--its very name -attests the tongue in which the Celtic founders spoke--St. Cuthbert's -body in its stone coffin floated downstream on its many wanderings by -water and land; and, as related by Bede, the hermit Drithelm was wont in -winter to break the ice on the river, and, standing up to the neck in -the water, recite his prayers. Although it was abandoned before the -"Sair Saint" brought to the neighbourhood and to Scotland the first -monks of the Cistercian Order, some of the prestige of Old Melrose must -have clung to the name and been transferred to the Religious House on -the new site, the ruddy walls of which can be descried, sheltering at -the foot of the Eildons, across the fields on which, long before the -coming of the Columban missionaries, the Romans planted the -expeditionary camp and permanent station of Trimontium, that have only -lately yielded their secrets to the spade. - -This Bemerside Hill is a "Mount of Vision" from which all the chief -shrines and high places of the Scott Country can be surveyed, at least -with the mind's eye. Abbotsford itself, if not in actual view, can be -mapped into the scene by direction and position. Out of sight, directly -under the brow of the hill, is the ancient square fortalice, with later -buildings attached, and grounds stretching down towards the Tweed, where -Haigs have been resident for seven centuries. They were benefactors of -Melrose when Alexander III was king, and when Thomas the Rhymer was -their neighbour and wellwisher, and uttered the prophecy that has so -mightily helped its own fulfilment: - - [Illustration: BEMERSYDE HOUSE] - - "Betyde, betyde, whate'er betyde, - Haig shall be Haig of Bemersyde." - -Sir Walter Scott was a later friend of the family, and was often a guest -in the beautiful rose-garden below the mansion. A grateful nation -bestowed the house and manor on the late Field-Marshal Earl Haig, who -now lies at rest close by Sir Walter at Dryburgh. The whole scene and -surroundings seem to be touched by the spirit of prophecy and of poetry. -On the hills opposite stood the "Eildon Tree" and the "Eildon Stone"; -and beyond these, on Abbotsford property, the reputed "Rhymer's Glen", -where "True Thomas" encountered the Queen of Fary, although the tryst -may well have been at Huntlywood, behind Brotherstone, on the Eden -Water, and near Corsbie Tower, the ruined "Castle of Avenel". As has -been said, Drithelm and Cuthbert were visionaries, so were Boisel, the -second Abbot of the old, and Waldave, the first Abbot of the new -foundation; and centuries before the time of the Seer of Ercildoune they -dreamed dreams and saw things not of this world and far into the future. -According to popular belief, of like gifts was "Auld Michael", whose -words "cleft Eildon Hills in three". The last and the greatest of these -"Wizard Scotts" is he who sleeps with his fathers in St. Mary's Aisle. - -When descent is made into the valley of the Leader, one is still in the -land of enchantment. The ivy-covered "Rhymer's Tower" is a few miles up -the glen, and on the way, under the Black Hill of Earlston, are -Drygrange and the "Broom o' the Cowdenknowes". Near by, at Mellerstain, -lived and sang Grizel Baillie, who was Grizel Hume; and in the Kirk of -Legerwood is the monument of that other Grizel, who, in the dress of a -highwayman, saved her father's life by holding up the King's officer -carrying the writ for his execution. Higher up Leader are Carolside, -and, in a side glen, Auld Thirlstane, the seat of "Auld Maitland", and -Spottiswoode, the home of Alicia Spottiswoode--Lady John Scott--writer -and composer of "Bonnie Annie Laurie" and other thrilling Scots lyrics. -The new Thirlstane--it is hundreds of years old--is in the centre of -Lauderdale, beside the venerable Royal Burgh of Lauder, the last of the -municipalities in the land to retain its old burghal rights and customs. -Many are the hill-forts and camps that look down on the now peaceful -scenes through which the road--a favourite tourist coach route--passes -on its way from the crossing of the Lammermoors to the Tweed; and among -them are Channelkirk where Cuthbert heard the summons of the Heavenly -Host, and Edgarshope, by which the message of fire that told of the -crossing of the border by the English bands, was wont to be passed on to -Soutra Edge, near by the Hospice of the Red Friars, to which, and not to -Faeryland, Thomas retired from the world, when he followed the -mysterious Hart and Hind up Leaderside. - -Not less richly furnished with the relics of eld and with the charms of -modern cultivation is the parallel vale of the Gala, the nursery of the -"Braw Lads". The "Shirra" often traversed it on his way by Midleton Moor -to his home and sphere of jurisdiction on Ettrick and Tweed, upon which -the stream, road, and railway debouch a little below the mill lades and -chimney stalks of the town of Galashiels, and almost opposite to -Abbotsford. On the links and bends of the Gala, and its side glens of -the Heriot, the Armit, and the Luggate, are many places of historic -note--Crookston, of the Borthwicks, for example; Stow--the "Stowe of -Wedale", of Arthurian and medival fame; Bowland, like Eildon Hall, on -the farther side of the Eildons, a possession of the House of Buccleuch; -the ruined "broch" on the Bow Hill, facing, across the valley, a similar -structure which, with the termination of that ancient and mysterious -line of earthworks, the "Catrail", occupies the crown of Torwoodlee, of -the Pringles; finally, Buckholm Hill and Tower, looking over the roofs -of the busy seat of tweed manufactures to Gala Hill and Gala House of -the Scotts. "Gala Water, Buckholm, Torwoodlee", were among the last -audible words murmured by the dying "Border Minstrel". - -Between "Leader howms" and Gala Water runs the little stream of the -Allan or Alwyne through the "Fairy Dean". Lovers of Scott will not pass -it by, because, apart from the loveliness of its succession of -wood-embowered haughs, it leads to a spot where three ruined peel -towers--Hillslap, Colmslie, and Langshaw--stand not many bowshots apart, -memorials of the time when the smaller lairds had to bind themselves -together by a "bond of manrent", for protection against their more -powerful neighbours; and the first of these has been identified, with -some sanction from Scott himself, as the "Glendearg" of the Glendinnings -in _The Monastery_ and _The Abbot_. Near the bridge which crosses the -Tweed at the "Pavilion of Alwyn", and the "groves of noble Somerville", -was the scene of the misadventure of Philip, the Sacristan, at the hands -of the spirits, and of Mysie Happer, the daughter of the miller of the -Halidome. The dairy farm of the "monks of St. Mary's" was on Allan -Water; up it led the "girth-gait" which they often followed on the way -to Soutra Hospice. True Thomas's rhymed sayings cling to this -countryside like--in Father Philip's phrase--"burrs to a beggar's rags". -The region between Leaderfoot and Galashiels was part of the original -patrimony of the Cistercian Abbey; all the way, but especially where -Gattonside, set on its hillside and surrounded by its famous orchards, -"beiks in the sun", one sees, in glimpses or in full view, - - [Illustration: MELROSE ABBEY: CHOIR AND NORTH TRANSEPT] - - "Where fair Tweed flows round holy Melrose - And Eildon slopes to the plain". - -In drawing near to Melrose, especially if one crosses at Leaderfoot, and -approaches by the village of Newstead and over the site of the Roman -camp, one feels there is something to be said for Dorothy Wordsworth's -disappointment on coming first into near view of the Abbey. It stands -back from the river--perhaps because the river has left it--and apart -from the hills. It is in the fields outside of the village, the streets -of which come to its gate and stop there; and it is surrounded by walls, -which interrupt and deform proportions seriously injured by the loss of -its central tower. Melrose--"the light of the land, the abode of saints, -the grave of monarchs"--is a glorious fragment, more beautiful, perhaps, -in detail than in general effect, in ornament than in design; and -memorable even more for its legendary and literary associations than for -its actual history. The monastery dates from the same abbey-building -reign as its rivals on Tweedside; but architecturally the church belongs -to another horizon. Of the original Norman fabric that stood on the site -scarcely a trace remains. It was swept away during the descent upon it -of Edward II in 1322, and what remained must have perished under the -equally destructive assault of Richard II in 1385. Between these two -dates, a building arose, represented by the eastern end of the nave with -its flying buttresses and by adjoining parts of the choir and transepts, -that may be regarded as a monument of the piety and the gratitude of -Robert the Bruce, whose heart, brought back from the Paynim lands to -which the "good Sir James" of Douglas had carried it, is buried in the -Abbey. The work of rebuilding was continued for nearly a couple of -centuries longer; and it is evident that the highest art and -craftsmanship the age could produce were employed in construction and in -ornament, which, owing to the fineness of grain of the red sandstone -employed, remains in wonderful preservation. It is doubtful whether it -was completed before the tempests of the Tudor invasions and of the -Reformation fell upon it, and the monks were put to flight. It has not -been definitely ascertained how far the long nave extended to the -westward, or what was the plan of the monastic buildings, of which and -of the cloister only a few fragments are left on the northern side of -the church. The presbytery, with its much extolled "east oriel" window, -was probably among the later additions, and is one of the finest -examples of Perpendicular Gothic extant. Scott would have us view it -when the moon is shining "through slender shafts of shapely stone, by -foliaged tracery combined", and to imagine that - - "Some fairy's hand - 'Twixt poplars straight the ozier wand, - In many a freakish knot, had twined". - -But even more wonderful and beautiful to many eyes is the great -Decorated window of the south transept that lightens the aisle in which, -as is fabled, the Wizard Michael sleeps with his magic books beside him. -Familiar are the lines in which Sir Walter, a constant pilgrim to this -shrine, chants its praises--of its cloister garth: - - "Nor herb, nor floweret, glistened there, - But was carved in the cloister-arches fair"; - -of the vaulted roof, where - - "The key-stone that locked each ribbd aisle - Was a fleur-de-lys or a quatrefeuille"; - -and of the pillars, with their clustered shafts, that - - "With base and with capital flourished around - Seem'd bundles of lances which garlands had bound". - -It must have been a labour of love to frame this marvellously carved -casket, in which are laid the ashes of kings and prelates. Here rest the -chiefs of the once mighty House of Douglas, and, not far away, of the -English Warden who desecrated their tombs and was overtaken and slain at -Ancrum Moor; among minor clans "Ye race of ye House of Zair"--Kerrs and -Pringles; and, later in date but of the same stubborn and trusty Border -stuff, Tom Purdie, the reclaimed poacher and faithful watchdog and -factotum of the Laird of Abbotsford. The prayer of John Morvo, inscribed -on the wall of the south transept, - - "I pray to God and Marie baith - And sweet St. John keep this haly Kirk frae skaith", - -has not been fulfilled. To other bludgeonings of fate was added its -conversion into the parish church in the seventeenth century. Walter -Scott helped to rescue it from vandalism and neglect; and he continues -to be the guardian spirit of the "dark Abbaye". - -Not less than in the days of the monks is the adjacent town of -Melrose--"Kennaquair" the residence of the antiquarian Captain Cuthbert -Clutterbuck--an appanage of the Abbey, out of which indeed it has partly -been built. One looks in vain for the "Druid Oak", which existed only in -Scott's fancy. But Melrose has its market cross and market place, and -does a modest business with the country round. Its chief source of -prosperity, however, is in its situation and its associations; it may be -called the capital of the "Scott Country". Abbotsford is little more -than a couple of miles away. The road to it passes Darnick Tower, a red -keep festooned with greenery, the stronghold of one of the lay vassals -of the Abbey; and skirts, in the grounds of the Hydropathic -Establishment, the "skirmish field" on which was fought in 1526 the fray -between the Scotts and the Kerrs of the Douglas faction that gave rise -to a long feud between the clans. Scott, it may be noted, speaks of the -scene, when - - "Cessford's heart-blood dear - Reeked on dark Elliot's Border spear", - -as if it had taken place beside the ruined Kerr stronghold of Holydean, -on the southern side of the hills beyond Huntly-burn and the "Rhymer's -Glen", and thus near to the pretty village of Bowden, which sits under -the lowest of the three Eildons, and looks down into the valley of the -Ale and towards Cavers Carre and Lilliesleaf. - -The fields and woods sloping down from Bowden Moor and Cauldshields -Loch, on the left of the way from Melrose to Abbotsford, are part of the -possessions which Sir Walter gathered together between 1811, when he had -to give up Ashestiel, and 1824; and they still belong to his -descendants. The nucleus of the property was the little farm of Cartley, -or Clarty, Hole, on the Tweed a little above the inflow of the Gala. It -lay almost opposite to the site of the plum trees that, according to a -story of Border foray much cherished in Galashiels, gave to that town -the burghal arms and the slogan tune of "Soor Plooms", the favourite -bagpipe air of Scott's Kelso uncle. On the strength of a tradition that -there was here a crossing-place of the monks, Abbotsford got its new and -ever memorable name. A modest cottage, which forms part of the west -wing, gradually grew with the growth of the owner's fame and fortunes, -until, at the end of fourteen years, by addition and reconstruction, -mainly all of Sir Walter's own devising, it had become the stately -baronial mansion, adorned with turrets, corbels, and crowsteps, that -challenges the eye by its form and size as well as by its history. Into -it the author of the _Waverley Novels_ may be said to have built his -fancies, his aspirations, and his ambitions; and here he counted on -spending the evening of his days in well-earned rest, surrounded by his -children and his friends, and by the love and admiration of his fellow -countrymen. Hardly had this "poem in stone and lime" been brought to -completion when an untimely frost blasted his hopes, and with unimpaired -courage, but with gradually failing strength, he turned to a task, -greater than any that ever fell to his namesake the "michty Michael", -and worked unremittingly, with hand and brain, for another seven years' -term until he came back for the last time to Abbotsford, a spent and -broken man, to die. Sadder far his return than his departure a year -before in quest of health, when - - "A trouble, not of clouds or weeping rain, - Nor of the setting sun's pathetic light - Engendered, hung o'er Eildon's triple height". - -It brought the last touch of tragedy and of heroism to the closing scene -of that noble life--to the passing of the marvellous power, the warm and -generous heart, the gallant spirit that was Walter Scott. He enjoyed, -however, many happy days in Abbotsford; it is associated more with his -triumphs than with his misfortunes. Here he trod his fields, delighted -"to call this wooded patch of earth his own", entertained literary -celebrities like Washington Irving, Maria Edgeworth, and the -Wordsworths, held almost feudal receptions of his retainers and -neighbours, talked and walked with his familiars--Lockhart, Skene, -Cranstoun, the "beloved Erskine"--and with his "ain folk", and planned -and wrote his novels. Tweed sings a blither as well as a fuller strain -since he dwelt by it. - -Into the house, he built material more substantial than his hopes. Scott -had the antiquarian temper and taste; and like Burns's Grose, and his -own Oldbuck, he gathered about him "a routh o' auld nicknackets", many -of them the free-will offering of admirers. In this way the door of the -old Edinburgh Tolbooth--the "Heart of Midlothian"--came into his -possession, along with the ponderous lock and key over which "Daddie -Ratton" had held charge. Sculptured and inscribed stones from the High -Street and Canongate houses have also found their way here; while within -the house has been collected a museum of Border antiquities, along with -portraits, and personal souvenirs and relics, gathered from all corners -of the land. The house has been left "very much as in Sir Walter's -time"; and a constant stream of pilgrims visits it. In the library are -relics of Napoleon, of Prince Charlie and Flora Macdonald, of Nelson and -Wellington; in the drawing-room, among other famous pictures, is -Raeburn's portrait of Scott; in the armoury, memorials of Rob Roy, -Montrose, Claverhouse, and Archbishop Sharpe, and the keys of Loch Leven -Castle, while on the walls are blazoned the escutcheons of "ye Clannis -and men of name quha keepit ye Scottish Marches in the days of auld". -But more impressive than any of these things are the chair in which -Scott sat to write or dictate and the pen that in his hand was as a -magician's rod. - -The way from Abbotsford to Selkirk, by the valleys of the Tweed and -Ettrick, past Fawdonside and Lindean, was a familiar one to the -"Shirra". He had legal and other county business that carried him often -during a third of a century to the head town of his Forest Sheriffdom; -and inclination went hand in hand with duty, for the road led to Ettrick -and Yarrow, to "Sweet Bowhill" and to - - "The shattered front of Newark's towers - Renowned in Border story". - - [Illustration: ABBOTSFORD] - -Selkirk--the old "church of the shielings", which, in the days when -David I and his successors hunted in the forest of Ettrick, served the -royal sportsmen for their orisons--narrowly missed being the seat of an -Abbey. A colony of Tyronesian monks were settled in it more than eight -centuries ago, but were removed, "for convenience", to Kelso. The -"Souters of Selkirk" have since given themselves to war, to shoemaking, -and latterly to tweed manufacture. But the town has not neglected -poetry, and bards of later date have been born and have sung in it, -since Burns and Scott drew the "birse" across their lips. It is set well -above the vale of the Ettrick, at the gate of the Haining policies; and -its public buildings are gathered around the triangular market-place, in -which stands a statue of Sir Walter in his sheriff's robes. In the Free -Library is hung the Flodden Standard brought home by the survivors of -that day of disaster, when "the Flowers o' the Forest were a' wede -awa'". - -In 1645 Montrose was resting, with his cavalry, in Selkirk, his infantry -encamped at Philiphaugh, on the other side of Ettrick, when David Lesley -crept up on him from Melrose, in the mist of a September morning. In two -or three hours the fruits of nine brilliant victories were lost, and the -great captain was a fugitive speeding across Minchmoor to Traquair, -where, the door being shut on him, he passed on to Clydesdale and the -Highlands. There have been many romantic crossings of Minchmoor, and -meetings and partings at "Wallace's Trench"--part of the old Catrail or -Picts' Dyke--and at the Cheese Well. Walter Scott accompanied his friend -Mungo Park--whose statue stands near his own in the streets of -Selkirk--when Park was starting on his African journey. They separated -on the ridge above Williamhope, where, as has already been told, Sir -William Douglas, the "Flower of Chivalry", was slain by his cousin the -Earl of Douglas, in revenge, it is said, for the most unchivalrous deed -of the starving to death, in Hermitage Castle, of Sir Alexander de -Ramsay. Across this high moor between Yarrow and Tweed came James V, -with five belted earls, to the meeting with the "Outlaw Murray", lord of -Hangingshaws, and Newark, and Philiphaugh and other lands on Yarrow. The -king's message ran-- - - "Bid him meet me at Permanscore,[1] - And bring four in his companie; - Five earls sall come wi' mysel, - Good reason I suld honoured be". - -Permanscore is a hollow of the hill, "where wind and water shears", and -here, three hundred years after the "Outlaw's" time, the "Shirra" -assembled and conducted "a perambulation of the marches" in a case of -disputed boundaries. - -Carterhaugh--the meadow on which faithful Janet met "Young Tamlane", -and, by holding him through all his grisly transformations, rescued him -from Fairy-land--lies in the fork between Ettrick and Yarrow. Behind it -is Bowhill, at the time when the _Lay_ was written the favourite seat of -the Buccleuch family; and the "Duchess's Walk", along the right bank of -the Yarrow, is named from the lady who suggested to Scott the "Goblin -Page" as an episode of the _Lay_. It leads to where - - "Newark's stately tower - Looks out from Yarrow's birchen bower", - -and to the "embattled portal arch" - - "Whose ponderous grate and massy bar - Had oft rolled back the tide of war". - -Within the deserted walls, the widowed Duchess of Buccleuch and Monmouth -is pictured as listening to the tale of the Last Minstrel. Local -tradition has it that in the courtyard the Irish prisoners who -surrendered at Philiphaugh were massacred; another story asserts that -they were slaughtered on "Slainmenslee". Newark was a royal hunting-seat -in the fifteenth century; and its possession carried with it the -Hereditary Sheriffdom of the Forest, which with many things else in this -country came to the House of Buccleuch. - -Over against Newark is Foulshiels, the birthplace of Mungo Park. -Broadmeadows and Lewinhope and Tinnis are higher up the stream, which -here runs between steep wooded hills, cloven by narrow side glens and -with spaces of rich haughland on its margin. Yarrow burrows under banks -of birch and hazel, or overshadowed by fine forest trees. The vale is -"strewn with the sites of the tragedies of far-off years, forgotten by -history, but remembered in song and tradition"; it is "the very -sanctuary of romantic ballad-love. Its clear current sings a mournful -song of the 'good heart's bluid' that once stained its wave; of the -drowned youth caught in the 'cleaving o' the craig'. The winds that -sweep the hillsides and bend 'the birks a' bowing' whisper still of the -wail of the 'winsome marrow', and have an undernote of sadness on the -brightest day of summer; while with the fall of the red and yellow leaf -the very spirit of 'pastoral melancholy' broods and sleeps in the -enchanted valley. Always, by Yarrow, the comely youth goes forth only to -fall by the sword, fighting against odds in the Dowie Dens, or to be -caught and drowned in the treacherous pools of this fateful river; -always the woman is left to weep over her lost and lealful lord." No -strict identification of ballad sites and origins is possible; but the -story of the "Dowie Dens" has become associated with Tinnis bank and -with Deucharswire, beside Yarrow Kirk; and is said to be founded on the -slaughter in 1616 of Walter Scott of Oakwood by the kin of John Scott of -Tushielaw, with whose daughter, Grizel, Oakwood had contracted an -irregular marriage. - - [Illustration: TRAQUAIR] - -A group of authentic memories gather around Yarrow Kirk and Manse, and -the bridge which carries a crossroad over the hills to Ettrick. A -succession of cultured pastors have dwelt here, including Dr. Rutherford -the grandfather of Scott, two generations of Russells, and the late Dr. -Borland. By an unfortunate fire, in the spring of 1922, the restored -church was destroyed, together with the memorials placed in it of Sir -Walter, of Willie Laidlaw, his friend and amanuensis, of Wordsworth, and -of the Ettrick Shepherd, all of them residents or visitors on Yarrow and -worshippers in this secluded fane. In a field close by is a stone carved -in rude Latin minuscules to the "Sons of Liberalis, of the Dumnogeni", a -relic of post-Roman times. Above Yarrow Kirk, the valley widens until it -becomes spacious enough to hold the clear mirror of St. Mary's Loch; the -hills become bare and green and smooth, and over the ridge on the right -comes the road from the Tweed by Paddyslack and Mountbenger to the -Gordon Arms. It was from this road that Wordsworth, in good company, -caught his first, and his last, glimpse of Yarrow-- - - "When first descending from the moorlands - I saw the stream of Yarrow glide - Along a bare and open valley, - The Ettrick Shepherd was my guide. - When last along its banks I wandered, - Through groves that had begun to shed - Their golden leaves upon the pathway, - My steps the Border Minstrel led." - -Hogg farmed, unsuccessfully, Mountbenger, before he removed across -Yarrow to Altrieve, where he spent the last year of his life and where -he died. In his youth he had herded sheep on Blackhouse heights, where -looking down on the ruined peel on the Douglas burn are the stones that -mark the place where the "seven bauld brethren" fell, in their pursuit -of "Lord William and Lady Margaret". The escaping lovers lighted down at -this "wan water". - - "'Hold up, hold up, Lord William,' she said, - 'For I fear that ye are slain.' - ''Tis naething but the shadow of my scarlet cloak - That shines in the water so plain.'" - -But it was his "heart's bluid", and the pair were buried together in St. -Mary's Church, whose deserted graveyard is set on a shelf of Hendersyde -Hill, overlooking the loch, and fronting the dome of Bowerhope Hill. - -On the banks of a burn which flows into Yarrow a little below where it -issues from the loch is Dryhope Tower. "Auld Watt" of Harden came to it -to bear away Mary Scott, the "Flower of Yarrow", and part of the -provision for their housekeeping was the spoils of the "first -harvest-moon". Half-way along the shore of St. Mary's, at Cappercleuch, -pours in the Meggat Water, a stream that drains some of the highest -ground in the Southern Uplands. It was a favourite royal hunting-forest -in 1529, when James V came this way intent on the extirpation of the -Border thieves; and fate threw in his path Cockburn of Henderland, whose -tower was near Meggatfoot. The hollow and waterfall of the "Dowglen" are -shown where his lady sought shelter, while "they broke her bower and -slew her knight"; the spot, with names inscribed, can be seen in a -little clump of wood beside the ruined peel to which she bore him on her -back and dug his grave:-- - - "And thinkna ye my heart was sair - When I laid the mools on his yellow hair; - And thinkna ye my heart was wae - When I turned aside awa to gae". - -Unfortunately for tradition, the fact is on record that Cockburn of -Henderland, like his neighbour Scott of Tushielaw, was tried and -executed at Edinburgh. James Hogg would have made small ado about -brushing such obstructions out of the way of romance. His statue stands -at the head of St. Mary's Loch--the presiding genius of the scene. The -road up Yarrow, passing through the woods of Rodono, holds out beyond -it, by the Loch of the Lowes and Chapelhope to Birkhill, and then, under -the "Grey Mare's Tail" and White Coombe, down Moffatdale. But the seated -figure of the burly Shepherd, wrapped in his plaid, faces "Tibbie -Shiels", the rendezvous of generations of thirsty fishers and poets, on -the narrow space between the lochs, and looks towards the hills up which -the crossroad climbs steeply, making for Ettrick. It was at this famous -hostelry that Hogg gave his classical order, after a hard night's -drinking with Christopher North and other congenial company, "Tibbie, -bring in the Loch!" "He taught the wandering winds to sing", reads the -inscription on his monument; and the strong song of the winds that blow -down Ettrick accompanies the traveller as he climbs over by the -Packman's Grave, descends to Tushielaw and, turning upstream at -Crosslee, follows the valley to the Shepherd's birthplace and grave, -beside Ettrick Kirk. This out-of-the-world nook in the hills--for the -road up Ettrickdale comes to an end a few miles higher, under Ettrick -Pen--may be reckoned the heart of pastoral Scotland. The thoughts and -the talk of the inhabitants are absorbed in sheep--except what may be -reserved for sport, and "auld farrant tales", and church affairs. Around -the Shepherd rest many of his own kin and kind: farmers and herds, -lairds and tenants, reivers, smugglers, and gypsies--and in this strange -mixed company, "Boston of Ettrick", of the "Fourfold State", the great -preacher and Covenanting divine. - -The Castle of Thirlstane, on Ettrick, stands a little below the kirk, -with a fragment of Gamescleuch Tower facing it on the opposite bank. -Thirlstane belonged to the "Ready, aye Ready" Scotts, until it went by -marriage to its present possessors the Napiers. Tushielaw was another -hold of the clan, and here dwelt Adam Scott--"King of the Thieves", and -"King of the Borders"--the father of Mary, the "Forest Flower" of the -"Queen's Wake"--until his rival from Holyrood came and "justified" him, -says legend, on the Doom Tree at his own door. - -Across the water from Tushielaw "Rankleburn's lonely side" leads far -into the hills. Rankleburn is the traditional first home of the Scotts -in the basin of the Tweed, although Kirkurd in the Lyne valley might put -in an earlier claim. They are even said to have drawn their name and -their chief title from this deserted glen, high up which lies Buccleuch, -now marked only by the foundations of a chapel wall. Scott of Satchells, -who wrote the family story in halting rhyme, in 1686, tells how a -wandering Scott from Galloway, in the remote days of Kenneth II, seized -a hunted buck by the horns, swung it on his shoulders and brought it to -the king:-- - - "And for the buck thou stoutly brought - To us up that steep heugh, - Thy designation ever shall - Be John Scott of Buck's cleuch". - -Neither at Gilmanscleuch, nor on the Deloraine burn, nor at the Dodhead -have the men of the type of Jamie Telfer, who, "steady of heart and -stout of hand, once drove their prey from Cumberland", left any trace of -themselves in standing walls. A reminiscence of old forest times -survives in such names as Hindhope and Hartwoodmyres; the shell of an -ancient peel guards, at Kirkhope, the "Swire Road" across the "Witchie -Knowe" from Yarrow to Ettrick Bridgend; and Oakwood has something more -substantial to show in the shape of the red keep which local legend -insists was built by the redoubtable Sir Michael Scott himself, although -its foundations must have been laid centuries after his date. Enough for -us that it was in the keeping of "Auld Watt" of Harden. - - "Wide lay his lands round Oakwood Tower - And wide round haunted Castle Ower." - -At Oakwood we are back again beside Selkirk, and at Selkirk we are near -where, each skirting the grounds of Sunderland Hall, Tweed and Ettrick -meet, and where we can resume our course up the larger stream. With the -delightful section of the Tweed between The Rink and Elibank, Walter -Scott had many close ties. The right bank, and part of the left, were -within his jurisdiction as Sheriff, in which office he succeeded his -friend, Andrew Plummer of Sunderland Hall, in 1799. But even earlier he -made familiar acquaintance with the district, on angling and walking -excursions, and had visited the Russells and "Laird Nippy", at -Ashestiel. The Rutherfords of Fairnilee--the old house in which was born -Alison Rutherford, the author of the popular version of "The Flowers of -the Forest", stands roofless and deserted, but a new mansion has risen -in its neighbourhood--were of his kin. He was a welcome guest also with -the Pringles of Yair, whose home, bound about by the woods and hills, is -across the river, with the "sister heights of Yair", otherwise known as -the "Three Brethren", as background. It may be remembered that it was -with a son of "the long-descended lord of Yair", Alexander Pringle of -Clovenfords, that in later days he went over the field of Waterloo. -Clovenfords was the nearest point of his Sheriffdom to town, and it was -convenient for him to take up occasional residence there. Leyden had -been schoolmaster in the village, which stands high above the rocky den -of the Caddon, on the Peebles and Galashiels road, a mile from the -"bonny bit" of Caddonfoot. While raising grapes and other fruit it -piously preserves the memory of the author of _Marmion_ in the form of -an effigy set up before the door of the inn, where, besides Scott, -William and Dorothy Wordsworth and other famous travellers have -sojourned. - - [Illustration: ASHESTIEL: SCOTT'S FIRST HOUSE IN THE BORDER COUNTRY] - -In 1804, Scott found it convenient to take a lease of Ashestiel; and -that leafy cover became his home for the next seven years. It is within -a couple of miles of Clovenfords and Caddonfoot. Under Caddonlee, where -William the Lion waited with his bands from the Highlands and the -Lothians, until he was joined by the Forest men on his ill-fated -invasion of England, Tweed is crossed by a single wide arch to where -"Glenkinnen's rill" and glen open a short cut, oft traversed with the -"Yair boys", to Yarrow. Near the Peel burn is a knoll shaded by oak and -birch--the "Shirra's Knowe"--where part of _Marmion_ is said to have -been written. The house, much changed since Scott's day, turns its front -and two extended wings away from the Tweed; but its most attractive -aspect is perhaps that towards the river. The little stream, that with -its hoarse roaring in spate used to keep the great author, then just -blossoming into fame, from his sleep, still tumbles through the garden. -His armchair, which came back from Abbotsford after his death, and the -window through which his favourite dogs sprang in or out at his call, -are still shown. In these Ashestiel years he saw the last volume of the -_Minstrelsy_ through the press, published the _Lay_, completed _Marmion_ -and _The Lady of the Lake_, edited Dryden, and began but laid aside -_Waverley_. His legal work was not absorbing, and he had time, aside -from literature, for following the hounds, "burning the water", making -raids into the Forest, and holding convivial meetings with his friends. -They were perhaps the happiest, if not the most brilliant, years of his -life. - -At Elibank, a couple of miles above Ashestiel, we leave Selkirkshire and -enter Peeblesshire. The bare grey walls of the old castle of Gideon -Murray, of the Black Barony branch of the name, a lord of Session and -trusted Councillor of James VI, stands well above the tree-line, against -the background of the hills, and commands a wide view of Upper and Lower -Tweeddale. History, in this region, arranges itself in strata, with the -oldest at the top--by the river margin are road and rail, farms with -their fertile haughs, and the houses and tweed-mills of Walkerburn and -Innerleithen; fragments of peels and bastiles of the fighting times when -Thornielee and Holylee were onsteads of the monks or of the king's -forest vassals, are perched on the ridges, or hide in the folds or -"hopes" of the hills, on whose summits are found the forts and cairns of -a still earlier day. The outposts of the Moorfoots come to the left bank -of the river, and behind them are the broad shoulders of Windlestraelaw; -while over against them are steep outliers of Minchmoor--Elibank, Bold -and Plora Laws. "Juden" Murray's tower is of feudal date and aspect. -Scott tells the story of how Young Harden, son of Auld Watt and the -"Flower of Yarrow", and presumably a personable young man, was captured -by the owner of the tower and was about to be hanged, when the more -politic lady pointed out that she had three ill-favoured daughters to -dispose of, and the prisoner was happily married to the youngest and -plainest, "Mucklemou'd Meg". An injudicial proceeding; but not more so -than the transaction by which Murray's neighbour, Lord Traquair, had the -President of the Court of Session carried off from Leith Links, by a -Border freebooter, Christie's Will, and kept in a dungeon of Hermitage -Castle, until a case was decided in Traquair's favour. Doubt has been -thrown on both stories, and in particular it has been objected that -Gideon Murray, whose descendants, the Lords Elibank of to-day, are -established at Darn Hall on Eddleston Water, had only one daughter, that -her name was Agnes, and that, although she married Young Harden, the -alliance was with full consent of all parties concerned. - -Lee Pen and Kirnie Law stand sentinels at the entrance of Leithen Water, -up which the houses of Innerleithen straggle for a mile or more, along a -road which runs across into Lothian, by the Piper's Grave, the Heriot -Water, and Carcant. It is a way by which Walter Scott, walking or -driving, has often reached Tweedside, and he would note in passing -Leithen Hopes, where his friend Hogg was once a herd laddie, and on the -lower slope of the Pen, south of Lee Tower and above the village, the -beginnings of the new "Spa". The topographical resemblances of "St. -Ronan's" to Innerleithen are not very close; and Sir Bingo Binks, Lady -Penelope Penfeather, Dr. Quackleben, and other types in Scott's solitary -attempt at a satiric portrayal of the social manners and humours of his -own day, are not of local growth. One looks in vain, also, for a -"Cleikum Inn" nearer than Peebles. Yet the spirit of Meg Dods pervades -the place, the inhabitants of which eagerly accepted the identification -and "recognized some of the characters as genuine portraits". They have -even adopted the device, on the inn-sign, of "St. Ronan and the Devil" -as the burgh arms. - -Geologists--who, "knappin the chucky stanes to pieces wi' hammers", -reminded Meg of "sae many stane masons run daft"--still frequent the -locality, along with anglers and tourists; for at Thornilee, as well as -across Tweed at Grieston and the Glen, are celebrated beds of -fossiliferous rocks. The bridge is not far above the pool--the -"Droon-pouch"--from which the body of the young son of King Malcolm the -Maiden was drawn by the Innerleithen people, in gratitude for which its -church was made a "Sanctuary" with privileges equal to those of Stow and -of Tyninghame. On the farther side is the entrance to the valley of the -Quair, and the woods surrounding the venerable form of Traquair House. -Its claim to be "the oldest inhabited house in Scotland" applies -specifically to its western wing, which is said to date back fully nine -centuries. However this may be, the antique character of Traquair is -written on its outward features as well as inscribed in its record. It -passed through the hands of a succession of royal favourites, of whom -the last was James III's musician and "familiar shield-bearer", Rogers, -who was among those hung over Lauder Bridge by the jealous nobles, -before it came into the possession of a branch of the Stewart Earls of -Buchan. The Traquair Stewarts have been of mixed reputation; but the -tradition of loyalty to the cause of their Royal kin now clings to the -house and is symbolized in the great Bear Gateway--the prototype of that -of the "Barons of Bradwardine" in _Waverley_--which is not to be opened -until a Stewart King comes again this way. - -Like the house itself, all its surroundings breathe of the poetry and -romance of the past. For was it not behind Plora Craig that "Bonnie -Kilmeny gaed up the glen"? Are there not some scrogs of birch left by -the waterside of the much besung "Bush aboon Traquair"? Were not the -dwelling of Willie Laidlaw, and the scene of "Lucy's Flitting" in the -upper valley, in which stands the lordly mansion of Lord -Glenconner--"The Glen" _par excellence_? And above all, is it not by the -road along the Quair that one "turns aside to Yarrow"? - -In the nine miles between Innerleithen and Peebles the full current of -Tweed winds through a country brimfull of beauty and story. Whether the -road followed upstream be that on the right or that on the left bank, -one passes the ruins of ancient strongholds and modern country-seats, -set among trees and lawns--on the south side, after Traquair, Cardrona, -Kailzie, Haystoun, and Kingsmeadows, and on the north Glenormiston, the -two Horsburghs, and Kerfield--and, behind these, high hills of grass and -heather, Lee Pen, Dunslair and the Makeness Kips, over against the -Glenrath Heights and the Dun Rig, from which on a clear day can be seen, -it is said, the Calton Hill in Edinburgh and the Isle of May. The little -country-town of Peebles is in a level space where Eddleston Water, side -by side with rail and highway, meets Tweed; and from time immemorial it -has been a resort of royalty, a place for pastime and -relaxation--"Peebles for pleesure!"--and, in a modest way, for trade. It -had a reputation for sanctity, also, in witness whereof there are the -remains of the two medival churches--those of St. Andrew and of the -Haly Rude. The house of the Archdean of Glasgow is represented by the -Lodging, in the High Street, of the Dukes of Queensberry, now become a -public library, whose name, the Chambers Institute, recalls the fact -that the founders of the publishing house of Chambers were born in a -humble cottage in one of the cross streets. Peebles has outgrown the -limits marked by the fragment of the town wall, and has spread -northwards to the foot of the hills, where on Venlaw--part of its lost -patrimony--it has public walks and a "Hydro"; while it has crossed, by -the handsome stone bridge, to the southern bank of Tweed; whence a -branch railway follows the course of the river to Broughton, on the way -to Clydesdale. - -A mile out of the town, to the west, is Neidpath Castle, the most -commandingly and romantically situated, and, in spite of the yawning -gaps made in its walls by Cromwell's cannon, the -best-preserved--Traquair excepted--of the strongholds of the olden time -on Tweed. The river is here constricted by the bare cairn-strewn ridge -of Caidmuir--once Peebles Common--on the south, and by the Edston -heights on the Neidpath side, and has cut a deep ravine through which -has drained the great lake that once filled upper Tweeddale. The water -swirls around rock and boulder below the castle base; and the screen of -trees, whose destruction by that "degenerate Douglas", Old Q., provoked -Wordsworth's indignant sonnet, has been partially restored. Access to -the lofty thick walled double tower, still partly occupied, is by a -gateway and courtyard; and over this outer portal are the arms of the -early owners--the strawberries of the Frasers of Oliver Castle, from -whom are descended the Frasers of the North; and the goat's head of the -Hays of Yester, who here entertained James VI, defied the Commonwealth, -and were created Lords of Tweeddale. Afterwards the castle and lands -came into the possession of the Douglases of Queensberry, and they now -belong to the Earl of Wemyss and March. From the window, now built up, -over the arch, as has been sung by Scott and by Campbell, the dying -"Maid of Neidpath" looked forth to watch the return of her undiscerning -lover. Still discoverable is the casement in the Justice Room of the -tower, out of which wrong-doers were hung after summary trial. - - [Illustration: NEIDPATH CASTLE] - -As Pennecuik sang two centuries ago: - - "The noble Neidpath Peebles overlooks - With its fair bridge and Tweed's meandering crooks". - -But it overlooks much else; and a short distance above it there open up, -to right and left, the subsidiary vales of the Lyne and the Manor. The -former comes from the "Cauldstaneslap", in the heart of the Pentlands, -and passing on its way, at the meeting with the Tarth, Drochil -Castle--built as a retreat by the Regent Morton, who was shortened by a -head with a guillotine of his own contriving before he had time to -complete his work--enters Tweed below the remains of the great Roman -Camp of Lyne. The Manor Water draws its springs from the neighbourhood -of Yarrow. Once it was defended by eight strong peels, only one of -which, Barns--where Mr. John Buchan has laid the scene of his "John -Burnet of Barns"--stands erect. Posso Craigs, where the Stewart Kings -bred their falcons, and the sites of St. Gordian's Kirk and Cross and of -"Macbeth's Castle" can be pointed out. But Manor's chief memorials are -the grave and the cottage of David Ritchie, the prototype of the "Black -Dwarf", the "recluse of Meiklestane Moor". Scott, as a young visitor to -Manor with Adam Ferguson, received an impression which never left him -when the deformed and eccentric being, who built his own hut with its -doorway three feet high, took him into its arcana, and locking the door -and seizing his hand, asked him earnestly: "Hae ye the pooer?"--the -power of divination! - -The "Thieves' Road", by which the Border reivers made their way into -Lothian, strikes athwart the hills enclosing the valleys of Manor and -Lyne, descending to the Tweed from the slopes of the Scrape to the woods -of Dawick. Veitches were succeeded in this sheltered place by Naesmiths, -whose fortunes were built up by an indefatigable seventeenth century -lawyer known as "the Deil o' Dawick". It boasts possession of the oldest -larches in Scotland, brought hither on the suggestion of Linnus, though -the honour is disputed by Kailzie lower down Tweed. Across the river is -another fine wooded domain--Stobo--whose ancient church preserves a -Norman doorway, a saddle-back tower, and a "jougs"; while, from the -hills behind, this level strath seems to be menaced by the fragments of -Tinnis Castle, set, like a robber tower on the Rhine, on the summit of -an almost inaccessible rocky spur. It is believed to have been the -original hold of the Tweedies of Drummelzier, a race whose fabled -descent was from a Tweed water-nymph, and whose conduct towards their -neighbours, the Veitches of Dawick and the Geddeses of Rachan, sadly -belied the motto on their tomb at Drummelzier Church--"Thole and Think". -Hard by that edifice at the meeting of the Powsail and the Tweed, and -not far from the ruined castle of the Hays of Drummelzier, is another -grave of which tradition has much to say--that of "Merlin the Wild", who -prophesied on the spot the Union of the Kingdoms. - -Beyond Drummelzier and Broughton, an estate and parish which in the -eighteenth century belonged to two historical personages of dubious -repute--"Secretary Murray" of the '45 and M'Queen of Braxfield, -Stevenson's "Lord Justice Clerk"--the Tweed is found to have dwindled -almost to the dimensions of a moorland burn, enclosed among smooth brown -"hills of sheep". Smaller streams pour down in headlong course on either -hand; and there are not wanting places of historic and literary note by -the river banks and in the tributary valleys. Every burn and haugh has -its story of old feuds, in which Frasers and Tweedies, Hunters and -Murrays, Scotts and Hays, and other clans of Upper Clydesdale have had a -part; and "forts" and "rings" and "chesters" are plentifully sprinkled -on the hill-tops. They are especially rife on the heights looking down -on the Holms water, which comes from the grassy and heathery folds of -Culter Fell and Cardon, and, after joining the Broughton burn, falls -into the Tweed below Rachan. For in this neighbourhood, by the "Pass of -Corscrine", ran for a time the frontiers of the Kingdom, as fixed -between Edward I and Edward Baliol. Like many other old families of the -district, the Geddeses of Rachan, "chiefs of the name", passed out of -the Upper Tweed in poverty and litigation. The like fate, or worse, -befell the Murrays of Stanhope, whose representative, after the laird -who lost his head in the '45, was the "Judas" of the Rebellion, for whom -Scott's father showed his contempt, by flinging out of the window the -cup from which his caller had partaken of tea in George Square. The fact -that they claimed to have received their lands, "for a Bow and a Broad -Arrow, when the King comes to hunt in Yarrow", from Malcolm Canmore did -not prevent the Hunters from parting with the estate of Polmood, after -one of the longest lawsuits in the annals of even the Scots law. - -Stanhope and Polmood have streams tumbling down to Tweed from the -heights of Dollar Law and Broad Law, 2800 feet above sea-level; and on -the opposite, or right bank, above the fragment of Wrae Castle, which -once belonged to the Tweedies, is the site of "Lincumdoddie", where -dwelt "Willie Wastle's wife", whose face, according to Burns's song, -"wad fyle the Logan Water", which runs by it. Beyond the Kinkledoors -burn is the "Crook Inn", beloved by the many anglers who have sought -sport and recreation in this solitude among the hills, where, besides -Tweed itself, there are many wild side streams--Hearthstane, Menzion, -Fruid, and Fingland; Glencraigie, Glenbreck, and Glencor--frequented by -brown and yellow trout. But, chief of all, there is the Talla, which, -from its springs in lonely Gameshope, rushes down the rocks at Talla -Linnfoot, and rests in the two-mile-long reservoir of the Edinburgh -Water Company, before joining the Tweed at Tweedsmuir Church, nearly -opposite the scant remains of Oliver Castle, where the Frasers first -planted themselves on Tweedside. - -The Frasers had fled the scene long before the Hunters and the Hays, the -Geddeses and the Tweedies, and other families have succeeded and -followed them in their flight. Few, and set far apart, are houses and -"bields" of any kind, on the lonely road that keeps high up the hillside -above the valley floor, until, at "Tweed's Well", passing over into -Annandale, it parts company with the "Scott Country". - - - - - Footnotes - - -[1]"Penmanscore" is the correct reading, though "Permanscore" is given - in the _Minstrelsy_. - - - - - BEAUTIFUL ENGLAND AND SCOTLAND - -This series of beautifully illustrated volumes has been re-issued in -handy size. It is an admirable record of what is most worthy of -attention in some of our fairest places. Each book contains 12 -reproductions of original water-colour paintings by E. W. Haslehust, -R.B.A., in addition to descriptive text. - - _Attractively Produced_ _Coloured Jacket_ - - _Descriptive Text by_ - The Thames. G. E. Mitton. - Bath and Wells. Arthur L. Salmon. - The Peak District. R. Murray Gilchrist. - In London's By-Ways. Walter Jerrold. - Winchester. Sidney Heath. - The Shores of Fife. John Geddie. - Heart of London. Walter Jerrold. - Cornish Riviera. Sidney Heath. - Loch Lomond. George Eyre-Todd. - Dartmoor. Arthur L. Salmon. - Edinburgh. John Geddie. - Canterbury. Canon Danks. - Shakespeare-Land. Walter Jerrold. - The Scott Country. John Geddie. - Oxford. F. D. How. - Cambridge. Noel Barwell. - York. George Benson. - English Lakes. A. G. Bradley. - - - - - Transcriber's Notes - - ---Research into publication date and location determined that this book - is in the public domain. - ---Corrected a few palpable typographical errors. - - - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Scott Country, by John Geddie - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE SCOTT COUNTRY *** - -***** This file should be named 52345-8.txt or 52345-8.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/5/2/3/4/52345/ - -Produced by Stephen Hutcheson, Dave Morgan and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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margin-top:0em; margin-bottom:0em; display:block; } - -dl.biblio dt { margin-top:.6em; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em; text-align:justify; clear:both; } -dl.biblio dt div { display:block; float:left; margin-left:-6em; width:6em; clear:both; } -dl.biblio dt.center { margin-left:0em; text-align:center; } -dl.biblio dd { margin-top:.3em; margin-left:3em; text-align:justify; font-size:90%; } -.clear { clear:both; } -p.book { margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em; } -p.review { margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em; font-size:80%; } -p.dialog { margin-left:2em; text-indent:-1em; } - -div.trump p { text-indent:1em; } -div.verse p { text-indent:-3em; } -div.trump dl.toc dt { text-align:left; } -div.trump dl.toc dt a { width: 4.5em; text-align:right; display:inline-block; margin-right:.7em; } - -td.l { text-align:left; font-family:sans-serif; } -td.r { text-align:right; font-family:sans-serif; } -td.c { text-align:center; font-family:sans-serif; } -</style> -</head> -<body> - - -<pre> - -The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Scott Country, by John Geddie - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - -Title: The Scott Country - Beautiful Scotland - -Author: John Geddie - -Illustrator: Ernest William Haslehust - -Release Date: June 15, 2016 [EBook #52345] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE SCOTT COUNTRY *** - - - - -Produced by Stephen Hutcheson, Dave Morgan and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net - - - - - - -</pre> - -<div id="cover" class="img"> -<img id="coverpage" src="images/cover.jpg" alt="The Scott Country" width="500" height="721" /> -</div> -<div id="insidecover" class="img"> -<img id="insidecoverpage" src="images/icover.jpg" alt="The Scott Country" width="500" height="714" /> -</div> -<div class="img" id="fig1"> -<img src="images/p02.jpg" alt="" width="667" height="1000" /> -<p class="caption">NEWARK TOWER</p> -</div> -<div class="box"> -<h1>THE -<br />SCOTT COUNTRY</h1> -<p class="center"><b>Described by John Geddie -<br />Painted by E. W. Haslehust, R.B.A.</b></p> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/p02b.jpg" alt="(uncaptioned)" width="400" height="348" /> -</div> -<p class="center"><b>BLACKIE & SON LIMITED -<br />LONDON AND GLASGOW</b></p> -</div> -<div class="verse"> -<p class="t0"><span class="sc">Blackie & Son Limited</span></p> -<p class="t2"><i>50 Old Bailey, London</i></p> -<p class="t2"><i>17 Stanhope Street, Glasgow</i></p> -</div> -<div class="verse"> -<p class="t0"><span class="sc">Blackie & Son (India) Limited</span></p> -<p class="t2"><i>Warwick House, Fort Street, Bombay</i></p> -</div> -<div class="verse"> -<p class="t0"><span class="sc">Blackie & Son (Canada) Limited</span></p> -<p class="t2"><i>Toronto</i></p> -</div> -<div class="box"> -<p class="center"><span class="ss">BEAUTIFUL ENGLAND</span></p> -<dl class="undent"><dt>The Heart of London.</dt> -<dt>Dartmoor.</dt> -<dt>Canterbury.</dt> -<dt>Oxford.</dt> -<dt>Bath and Wells.</dt> -<dt>In London’s By-ways.</dt> -<dt>The Peak District.</dt> -<dt>Winchester.</dt> -<dt>The Thames.</dt> -<dt>The Cornish Riviera.</dt> -<dt>Shakespeare-land.</dt> -<dt>Cambridge.</dt> -<dt>York.</dt> -<dt>The English Lakes.</dt></dl> -<p class="center"><span class="ss">BEAUTIFUL SCOTLAND</span></p> -<dl class="undent"><dt>Loch Lomond and the Trossachs.</dt> -<dt>Edinburgh.</dt> -<dt>The Scott Country.</dt> -<dt>The Shores of Fife.</dt></dl> -</div> -<p class="tbcenter"><i><span class="small">Printed in Great Britain by Blackie & Son, Ltd., Glasgow</span></i></p> -<h2>LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS</h2> -<dl class="toc"> -<dt class="jr small">Facing Page</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig1">Newark Tower</a> <i>Frontispiece</i></dt> -<dt><a href="#fig2">Kelso Bridge</a> 5</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig3">Smailholm Tower</a> 12</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig4">Roxburgh Castle</a> 16</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig5">Branxholm Tower</a> 21</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig6">Dryburgh Abbey</a> 28</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig7">Bemersyde House</a> 33</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig8">Melrose Abbey</a> 37</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig9">Abbotsford</a> 44</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig10">Traquair House</a> 48</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig11">Ashestiel House</a> 55</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig12">Neidpath Castle</a> 62</dt> -</dl> -<div class="img" id="fig2"> -<img src="images/p03.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="670" /> -<p class="caption">KELSO: THE RIVER TWEED AND ABBEY RUINS</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_5">5</div> -<h1 title="">THE SCOTT COUNTRY</h1> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/p03a.jpg" alt="THE SCOTT COUNTRY" width="500" height="285" /> -</div> -<p>Where—and what—is the “Scott Country”? Edinburgh—his -birthplace, the centre of his literary and -legal activities, the scene of <i>The Heart of Midlothian</i> -and of the <i>Chronicles of the Canongate</i>, his “own -romantic town”—might surely claim to enclose, if not -the kernel, an essential part of the interest that surrounds -the fame and the name of Sir Walter. Around -it, between the Pentlands and Lammermoors and the -sea, is territory immortally associated with the life and -the works of the “Master of Romance”—Lasswade and -Roslin, Borthwick and Crichton, “Goblin Ha’” and -Prestonpans,</p> -<div class="verse"> -<p class="t0">“Auchendinny’s hazel glade</p> -<p class="t0">And haunted Woodhouselee”,</p> -</div> -<p>Linlithgow Palace on the western and “Wolfs Crag” -on the eastern boundary of Lothian. Fife, on the -<span class="pb" id="Page_6">6</span> -strength of its possessions of Dunfermline, Falkland, -St. Andrews, and other storied sites, might put forward -a title to be ranked as a province of the Scott Country. -So might Perthshire, by virtue of the “Fair City” and -its “Fair Maid”, and joint ownership, with Stirling and -Dumbarton, of entrancing scenes on Loch Katrine, -Loch Ard, and Loch Lomond. Forfarshire also, wherein -is placed the best remembered of the passages in -<i>The Antiquary</i>, and even the distant Orkneys and -Shetlands, have felt the touch of the Wizard’s wand.</p> -<p>Nor, in the briefest survey of the lands of Scott -Romance, can one overlook the crumbling castles and -the rugged shores once ruled by the “Lord of the Isles”; -or the banks of the Clyde and Douglas Water; or -the opposing shores of the Solway; or Redesdale and -Teesdale, Gilsland and Triermain. The Peak District, -Sherwood Forest, and the Marches of Wales; Kenilworth, -and Woodstock, and even London streets themselves -might tender a case for inclusion; while, looking -farther afield, one is reminded that the genius of Walter -Scott has cast its spell over the Ardennes and Touraine, -Switzerland, Constantinople, and the Palestine of the -Crusades.</p> -<p>These are, for the most part, merely excursions of a -spirit whose abiding home or favourite haunt was the -Valley of the Tweed and its encircling hills. Edinburgh -itself, where there are so many rival memories, does not -<span class="pb" id="Page_7">7</span> -recall the author of <i>Waverley</i> so instantly and intimately -to our thoughts and affections as Abbotsford; and the -triple Eildon, rather than Arthur’s Seat, is the “high -place” of the Scott cult. If he brought a new glory to -the Border Country, it was the Border Country that -“made him”, as a man still more than as a writer; and -he is the most typical, as he is the most honoured, of -its many famous sons.</p> -<p>The greatest as well as</p> -<div class="verse"> -<p class="t0">“The last of all the Bards was he</p> -<p class="t0">Who sung of Border chivalry”.</p> -</div> -<p>The pull of the blood has in this instance proved -more potent than that of birth and early environment; -although Walter Scott was from his childhood, at -Sandyknowe and Kelso, familiar with Border scenes, -as well as steeped in Border lore. At a later stage in -his growth, lame as he was, with Shortreed and other -congenial companions he tramped the glens and -climbed the hills and hill-passes of Tweedside, gathering -and storing as he went its history and romance for -the delight of future generations,</p> -<div class="verse"> -<p class="t0">“Giving each rock its storied tale,</p> -<p class="t0">Pouring a lay for every dale,</p> -<p class="t0">Knitting, as with a moral band,</p> -<p class="t0">His native legends with his land,</p> -<p class="t0">To lend each scene the interest high</p> -<p class="t0">Which Genius beams from Beauty’s eye.”</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_8">8</div> -<p>But while he knew by heart the whole Borderland, -and had explored its chief river from where</p> -<div class="verse"> -<p class="t0">“Tweed, Annan, and Clyde</p> -<p class="t">A’ rise in ae hill-side”,</p> -</div> -<p>to where it enters the sea, under the time- and war-battered -walls of the ancient town of Berwick, there -were parts of the Tweed and its tributaries that he -knew better than others. There is, in the eyes of Scott -devotees, an Inner Circle, a “Holy of Holies”, of the -Scott Country, and, fortunately for the pilgrim to -these shrines, its centre lies where the main lines of -road and rail, like those of river-drainage, converge -around the meeting-place of Ettrick, Gala, and Leader -with Tweed—under the shadow of the Eildon Hills and -beside those two “miraculous” products of the hand -and brain of man—Melrose Abbey and Abbotsford -House. The creative art, in prose and verse, of the -Great Magician was not often exercised on the -chief stream higher up than Neidpath and Manor, or, -at farthest, “Merlin’s Grave”, beside Drummelzier and -under Tinnis. Nor did his genius much frequent the -lower courses of Tweed, below Kelso Bridge and Wark -Castle, and the inflow of the “sullen Till”, although here -also are many scenes of beauty and pages of story that -might well have set his imagination afire. It seems -more at home, also, in the valleys of the Teviot, the -Ettrick, and the Yarrow than on the Leader, the Gala, -<span class="pb" id="Page_9">9</span> -and other northern affluents of the Tweed. Accident -and propinquity may have helped to determine his choice -of scene and theme; but old associations and affinities -may have done still more. The nearer the Border line -of the Cheviots, the thicker are footprints of the clan -and national frays of old—of battles and skirmishes -in which Scott’s own ancestry took more than their -share; and the deeper and richer the soil of tradition in -which he delighted to delve. To the Teviot, the -Borthwick, and the Ettrick—to Branxholm and Harden, -Rankleburn and Newark—he was drawn by the call of -the blood of his father’s race; an equal tie bound him -to the Jed, the old home of his mother’s kin, the “hot -and hardy Rutherfords”; while Yarrow, the heart of his -Forest Sheriffdom, is also the core of its ballad poetry. -It has to be remembered, also, that the period of Scott’s -greatest literary output was also the period of failing -physical powers, and that journeys through his beloved -Borderland had to be more and more circumscribed to -beaten paths of easy access.</p> -<p>It was by Kelso Bridge, beside where the wand of -the Wizard Michael Scott “bridled the Tweed with a -curb of stone”, that, in the fresh morning of youth, the -spell of the great Border river first fell on Walter Scott. -His kinsfolk lived in the neighbourhood; and several of -them are buried in the Abbey Aisle. His great-grandfather -and namesake, the Jacobite “Beardie” who had -<span class="pb" id="Page_10">10</span> -fought at Killiecrankie, had occupied a house in the -Coalmarket; his kindly Aunt Janet resided in what is -now called Waverley Lodge; his uncle, Captain Robert -Scott, a lover and collecter of books, had his home at -Rosebank, which he bequeathed to Sir Walter, who—“his -poverty not his will consenting”—sold this house -of many memories, along with “thirty acres of the most -fertile land in Scotland”.</p> -<p>Only a few miles away, beside the stark and far-seen -old keep of Smailholm, was the farm of Sandyknowe, -leased from Scott of Harden by his grandfather Robert -Scott, to which, between the ages of three and eleven, -the little boy from Edinburgh came annually for -holidays. Everyone remembers the lines that record -the impression made on his youthful mind by his -“barren scene and wild”—by the tall, grey, weather-beaten -tower looking down from its rock upon the lone -lochan, and out and away over many scenes of Border -romance to “the distant Cheviots blue”; and of the -legends of foray and strife that were told in the boy’s -wondering ears by the “aged hind”, and that took shape -afterwards in “The Eve of St. John” and other tales -of the Master.</p> -<p>What more natural than that young Walter, “become -rather delicate from overgrowth” and threatened with -permanent lameness, should be sent, while twelve or -thirteen years of age, to his Kelso relatives for change, -<span class="pb" id="Page_11">11</span> -outdoor freedom, and recruitment? He went to the -Grammar School as pupil, and even for a time as usher, -under the Rector, Lancelot Whale, from whom are -drawn some of the traits of “Dominie Sampson”. He -delighted his master by his recitation of the “Speech of -Galgacus”, and beguiled his school companions from -their lessons by his tales of old romance. He read, in -the arbour of his aunt’s old-fashioned garden, or under -the ancient elm that still survives, Bishop Percy’s -<i>Reliques</i>, the identical copy of which is in Kelso -Library. Among his fellow-pupils were the Ballantynes, -James and John, a fateful conjunction, for out of a hint -dropped in a talk with the elder of these old schoolmates -grew the <i>Scottish Border Minstrelsy</i>—the -first two volumes of which were the earliest issued from -the Kelso “Ballantyne Press”, in 1802—and much else -of note in Scott’s career and fortunes. A biographer -may well say that it was “here he began to gather up -his intellectual gains and make his friendly conquests”. -Kelso gave bent and direction to his genius.</p> -<p>Like Smailholm, Kelso was “meet nurse for a -poetic child”, for here join two “superb rivers”—Tweed -and Teviot—each bringing down, from a -hundred sources, its treasure of ancient story. As we -have said, the beauty and romance of Tweedside -do not begin in this neighbourhood. They are the -endowment of the main stream from its tap-root to -<span class="pb" id="Page_12">12</span> -the sea. Berwick-upon-Tweed, for centuries a cause -of contention between the Kingdoms, was at one time -regarded as separate and apart from each—“England, -Scotland, and the town of Berwick-upon-Tweed”. -Since the fifteenth century, however, it has territorially -belonged to England, although situated on the north -bank of the river. Its Edwardian and Elizabethan -walls—the former recently placed, along with the -venerable Bell Tower, the symbol of Berwick Liberties, -under the protection of the Board of Works as a -national relic and for preservation against the attacks -of vandalism—enfold a sheaf of history. Few places -have been the scenes of more furious sieges and merciless -captures. Its bridge of fifteen arches, built before -the Civil Wars and upheld for centuries from State -funds, connects the town with Tweedmouth and Spittal -to the south, although it is of small account, as a bond -of union and means of traffic, compared with its upstream -neighbour, the Royal Border Bridge, which -carries the railway lines between England and Scotland.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig3"> -<img src="images/p04.jpg" alt="" width="669" height="1001" /> -<p class="caption">SMAILHOLM TOWER</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_13">13</div> -<p>A mile or two higher up, but still into tide-water, -flows in the Whitadder, which with its tributary, the -Blackadder, comes out of the recesses of the Lammermoors -to drain the fertile Merse, passing on its way -many scenes that must have tempted Sir Walter to -make its valley the stage of one of his romances. His -fancy may have played with the idea. But beyond an -occasional allusion, or the dispatch of one or two of his -characters through it, in hot haste for some other arena -of action, he never specifically annexed this heritage of -the Humes and earlier Lords of Dunbar and Merse to -the “Scott Country”, though some have attempted to -identify Cranshaws Castle or Wedderlie with Ravenswood. -Wedderburn recalls the “Seven Spears”. Polwarth -and Marchmont, Ninewells and Nisbet, Kimmerghame -and Langton, Edrington and Hutton, Chirnside -and Bunkle, Duns and Greenlaw, are names -steeped in the spirit of Border poetry as well as noted -in local and national annals. The valleys in which lie -Abbey St. Bathans, on the Whitadder, Priestlaw, on -the Faseny, and Longformacus, on the Dye, seem to -beckon for an interpreter of their almost forgotten -stories; while that of the mysterious “Edinhall”, on -Cockburn Law, the largest and most southerly of Scottish -“brochs”, is wholly lost. At Ellemford, James IV -was brought to a halt, in the futile “Raid of Ellem”; -and his descendant Charles I came to a turning-point -in his fortunes when he was faced by the Covenanting -Host, encamped on Duns Law. From Haliburton, hard -by the “Blackadder Rings”, Scott derived one line of -his descent. Yet this region of the Merse serves at most -only as a background in his Border Romance.</p> -<p>Higher up the main stream, beyond Paxton, and -Horncliffe, and Horndean, one comes to Ladykirk, -<span class="pb" id="Page_14">14</span> -whose fine old sixteenth-century church is said to -have been founded and dedicated to the Virgin in -gratitude for an escape from drowning in the Tweed. -Behind it is Swinton, the home of an ancient and -knightly family from which Sir Walter was descended, -on his mother’s side. Over against it are the -“castled steep” and “flanking walls” of Norham, the -guardian of England and of the heritage of the Prince-Bishops -of Durham, to the siege of which “Mons Meg” -has travelled in her day—the scene, too, of quarrels and of -conferences, at one of which Edward I decided between -the rival claims of the “Competitors” for the Crown of -Scotland.</p> -<p>At Tillmouth and Twizell Castle, where the Till -brings down waters—Glen and Bowmount, Breamish -and College—drawn from both skirts of Cheviot, one is -close to ground yet more closely bound to the tragedy -of the Kingdoms and to the genius of Scott, for near here -is Ford Castle, where the Scottish King is supposed to -have dallied too long with Lady Heron; the bridge -across which he allowed the English van to cross and -attack him on flank; and the hill-slope of Flodden, -down which, in 1513,</p> -<div class="verse"> -<p class="t0">“From his mountain home</p> -<p class="t0">King James did rushing come”—</p> -</div> -<p>to meet disaster half-way, and to fall in the midst of the -flower of his nobles and of his kingdom.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_15">15</div> -<p>At Coldstream, Longshanks crossed the Tweed on -the fatal enterprise of invading and subduing Scotland; -Leslie, on his way to join Cromwell at Marston Moor, -and Monk on the march to proclaim Charles II in -London. Wark Castle, in which, according to tradition, -the Order of the Garter was instituted—with -Carham beside it, where, at a much more distant date, -a generation before Macbeth, Malcolm II, King of -Scots, won a victory that brought the boundary of his -realm in permanence to the Tweed—stands within easy -reach of Kelso. So also, on the opposite or Scottish -bank, does Birgham, the soil on which William the -Lion and the Scots prelates disowned the supremacy of -the English Church, and where was signed the Treaty -for that projected marriage of the heirs of the two -Kingdoms—Prince Edward and the Maid of Norway—which, -but for evil chance, might have united them -without the intervention of three centuries of desolating -war.</p> -<p>But it is at Kelso Bridge, below the meeting of Tweed -and Teviot, that we come fully within the circle of the -Magician’s charm—where every stream and wood and -glen seems to take light and colour from the imagination -of Walter Scott. The scene has been admired and -praised by a host of poets and travellers before and -since his time. Burns looked down upon it from different -points of view and owned himself “enchanted”. -<span class="pb" id="Page_16">16</span> -It has been extolled by, among others, James Thomson, -of the <i>Seasons</i>, who was born at Ednam Manse on the -Eden Water, only two or three miles away, and by -Thomas Pringle, Scott’s fellow-pupil at Kelso and the -first editor of <i>Blackwood</i>, who sang, from the South -African veld, of “Bonnie Teviotdale and Teviot’s -mountains blue”. The parent river makes a wide -sweep, and, with its bold wooded banks, seems to -embrace and protect the houses of the little market -town, in the midst of which rise the ruined western -towers and a fragment of the nave of the renowned -Tyronesian Abbey. The place, standing so perilously -near the English border, was guarded on the south -and on the north by two great strongholds. Of -Roxburgh or Marchmont Castle, on the narrow ridge -between Tweed and Teviot, only a few walls, rising -a few yards above the sod, remain. Its history would -fill a volume. But one remembers chiefly that James II -of Scots—he of the “Fiery Face”—was killed by the -explosion of a cannon, while directing attack upon it -from the farther bank of the Tweed, leaving the country, -as was so often its fortune under the Stewart Dynasty, -to the hazards of a long minority. On the town of -Roxburgh—which once, as one of the “Four Burghs”, -was a leader in the path of municipal and commercial -progress—a more sweeping fate has descended; not -a stone has been left above another on a site upon -which for long was held “St. James’s Lammas Fair”.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig4"> -<img src="images/p05.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="669" /> -<p class="caption">ROXBURGH CASTLE</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_17">17</div> -<p>Hume Castle, Kelso’s other bulwark—or, if it -happened to be in the hands of an enemy, its thorn -in the flesh—stands on high ground to the north, -where its square-set form, now reduced to a shell, can -be seen from all parts of the ground that lies between -the Lammermoor and Cheviot. But the town had -strength within itself in its great Norman Abbey Church, -built for purposes of war as well as of prayer. It was -founded by that zealous abbey- and cathedral-rearer, -David I, the son of Canmore and of Saint Margaret; -and its head, as a mitred abbot who acknowledged -only the jurisdiction of the Holy See, held a position -that gave him a precedence, much envied and much -resented, over the superiors of the neighbouring religious -houses of Jedburgh, Dryburgh, and Melrose. -It was endowed with rich benefices and wide territories, -but its wealth and glory all vanished in the storms of -the Reformation, or, more ruthless still, of the English -invasions and the Civil Wars.</p> -<p>A large part of the Abbey heritage has passed to -the Kers, of the ducal house of Roxburghe, whose -stately seat, Floors Castle, planned by Vanbrugh and -completed by Playfair, commands from its terraces -one of the widest and loveliest views upon Tweed. -Of the Kers of Cessford, who had feuds with the rival -branch of the Kerrs of Ferniehirst, as well as with the -<span class="pb" id="Page_18">18</span> -Scotts and other neighbours, it has been said that -they had a genius for fighting on the winning side: -“When the power of the Douglases on the Border -began to crumble, they became Crown vassals, and -their fortunes mounted rapidly. They won new lands, -and held, and still hold, the old. They kept a hawk’s -eye on the wild tracts of moor and pasture and peat -bog, where even in the old days of foray there was, -as Dandie Dinmont said, ‘mair stabling for horses -than change-houses for men’, and where now all is -utterly abandoned to the curlew and the sheep. But -they moved their household gods, and extended their -bounds, from the Bowmont to the Kale, from the Kale -to the Teviot, and finally from the Teviot to the -Tweed.” Their ruined castle of Cessford stands in -a lonely place, on a slope overhanging a little side-glen -of the Kale Water, some eight miles from -Floors. The roof is gone, and all about is bare and -deserted. A few sapling ashes grow in the crannies -of the stone, but time has riven the thick walls which -Surrey, in 1523, found so hard to breach, and has -thrown down the grand old Crow Tree that stood so -long beside Habbie Ker’s stronghold. Long before -this the family had flitted to a warmer nest, and had -feathered it with the spoils of Old Roxburgh Castle -and of Kelso Abbey.</p> -<p>Scarcely less than Melrose and Abbotsford are -<span class="pb" id="Page_19">19</span> -Kelso and Floors the centre of a sanctuary of Border -romance; and over the scene the forms of Hume -Castle and Smailholm Tower seem to keep sentry-watch -and to “shift places mysteriously, like the -triple heads of the weird Eildons, as if they were -pacing guard upon the hilltops”. In the setting of -the picture revealed from these vantage-grounds are—along -with places already noted—the hanging woods -of Stichell and Newtondon; Nenthorn, Hendersyde, -Mellerstain, Makerstoun; beyond Teviot, the rich -woodlands of Springwood, Woodendean, and Sunlaws; -the darker pine trees around the hunting seat of Bowmont -Forest; the folds in which lie the “Gypsy -capital” of Kirk Yetholm, the ancient Kirk of Linton, -Eckford of the Douglases and Crailing of the Cranstons; -the hills of Hounam and Morebattle; and, -behind all, the soft blue line, rising high in Great -Cheviot and sinking away towards the west, of the -chain that divides the kingdoms, with peeps here and -there of Haddon Rig, and Ruberslaw, and Dunion, and -Minto Crags, and Penielheugh, crowned by its Waterloo -monument, with other scarce less famous Border -heights.</p> -<p>While, above the junction, the ascending valley of -the Tweed holds its way westwards, so that the water-sheds -of its northern tributaries are in common with -those of streams flowing to the Forth and the Clyde, -<span class="pb" id="Page_20">20</span> -Teviotdale keeps throughout a line that is parallel with -the Marches of the Kingdoms, from which its main -channel is nowhere more than a dozen miles away as -the crow flies. It follows that there is more of hazard, -and with this more of romance, crowded into its annals -than perhaps into those of any other area of like -extent. It is sprinkled over with battlefields and with -peel towers, most of them now in ruin; every dale -has been the scene of a fray, and every burn has a -song or ballad tacked to its name. These Middle and -West Marches were a centre of power and action, first -of the House of Douglas, and then of the “Bauld -Buccleuch”. The “Good Sir James of Douglas” kept -the peace of this troubled frontier for the Bruce; his -son, the “Knight of Liddesdale”, expelled the English -from Teviotdale, and was killed while hunting in -Ettrick Forest; his grandson, the first of the Douglas -Earls, also chased out the invaders and brought back -spoils from the English side; his great-grandson, the -second Earl, captured Percy’s pennon at Newcastle, -and was slain at Otterburn, while riding home by the -road of Redesdale and the Carter Bar with his prey; -while it is of a later descendant, “Earl Tineman”, -captured at Shrewsbury by a later Hotspur, that the -canny saying is quoted in <i>The Fortunes of Nigel</i>: -“Poortith (poverty) takes away pith, and the man -sits full still who has a rent in his breeks”.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig5"> -<img src="images/p06.jpg" alt="" width="671" height="1000" /> -<p class="caption">BRANXHOLM TOWER</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_21">21</div> -<p>A Scott of Buccleuch accompanied James V when he -hanged Johnnie Armstrong of Gilnockie and all his -company at Carlenrig near Teviothead; and the “rank -reiver’s” reproach, given in one version of the ballad, -was not without edge:</p> -<div class="verse"> -<p class="t0">“Now haud your tongue, Sir Walter Scott,</p> -<p class="t">Nor speak o’ reif and felonie;</p> -<p class="t0">If ilka man had his ain coo,</p> -<p class="t">A richt poor clan your name would be.”</p> -</div> -<p>It was from Branxholm, on the Teviot above -Hawick, that another Scott of the name—generation -after generation were Walters—rode forth to rescue -“Kinmont Willie” from prison in Carlisle. The -Minstrel’s tale, in the <i>Lay</i>, opens at and returns again -and again to Branxholm Ha’; it was at the Tower Inn, -at Hawick, where the Duchess Anne of Buccleuch and -Monmouth held her receptions, and that the greatest of -all the Sir Walters parted from his guests the Wordsworths.</p> -<p>It is a land dedicated to the achievements of -Douglases and Scotts, but that resounds also with the -deeds of Elliots and Armstrongs, and of minor and broken -clans, Turnbulls and Rutherfords, Cranstouns and -Olivers. It has its rich endowment of beauty as well as -of history. Around the keep of Branxholm, which from -the deep bank overhanging the stream has often defied -its enemies, have gathered buildings of more recent date -<span class="pb" id="Page_22">22</span> -and a screen of ancient trees. Below it is the Tower of -Goldilands, where a marauding Scott was hanged at his -own gate, and here comes in from the left the Borthwick -Water. As Leyden has it:</p> -<div class="verse"> -<p class="t0">“Where Bortha hoarse, that loads the meads with sand,</p> -<p class="t0">Rolls her red tide to Teviot’s western strand,</p> -<p class="t0">Through slaty hills, whose sides are shagged with thorn,</p> -<p class="t0">And springs in scattered tufts the dark-green corn,</p> -<p class="t0">Towers wood-girt Harden, far above the vale”—</p> -</div> -<p>Harden, the cradle of the branch of the Scotts from -which the author of the <i>Lay</i> was descended; the -“mountain home”, hidden in its narrow glen, to which -the “Flower of Yarrow” was brought by “Auld Wat”—“a -wide domain, and rich, had purple heath been -grain”.</p> -<p>At the town of Hawick, Teviot meets Slitrig, -coming from the wild bounds of Liddisdale. All roads -in Teviotdale seem to lead to Hawick, the capital of -its trade as well as a centre of its history. Proud as -its citizens are of the leading position of the burgh -in the tweed and hosiery manufacture of the South of -Scotland, and of the undiminished importance of its -great lamb and sheep fairs, they are prouder still of -the prowess of its sons in the dark days that followed -Flodden, and in other scenes of Border strife. Scott -was familiar with its story, as with the streets and -with the steep hills that surround this stirring little -metropolis of industrial and pastoral life; and allusion -<span class="pb" id="Page_23">23</span> -has already been made to the literary and legendary -memories attached to the site of the Tower in which -the Douglases of Drumlanrig entertained their guests -and protected their rights. From the parish church -of St. Mary, since often rebuilt, the heroic Ramsay of -Dalhousie was carried away by the Knight of Liddisdale, -to be immured and to suffer a lingering death -in the Douglas hold of Hermitage—</p> -<div class="verse"> -<p class="t0">“Did ever knight so foul a deed?”</p> -</div> -<p>An older memorial of the past of Hawick is the -Motehill, on which justice was dispensed, and an -outlook kept for enemies, in times beyond the range -even of tradition. The great “Hawick Tradition” of -the capture of the standard of the English marauders -at Hornshole is kept green by the annual ceremony -of the “Common Riding”, when Hawick is to be seen -in its gayest and most jubilant mood. The words and -tune of its slogan of “Teribus ye Teriodin” are supposed -to have descended to it from heathen times, and -to have originally been an invocation to the gods of -the early Saxons and Norsemen—Thor and Odin. The -defiant spirit of these warriors of old seems still to ring -in the chaunt sung by the Cornet and his men as they -ride round the marches in the beginning of June:</p> -<div class="verse"> -<p class="t0">“Teribus ye Teriodin,</p> -<p class="t0">Sons of heroes slain at Flodden,</p> -<p class="t0">Imitating Border Bowmen,</p> -<p class="t0">Aye defend your rights and Common.”</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_24">24</div> -<p>A few miles up the Slitrig is Stobs Castle, an ancient -seat of the Elliots, which became a military centre -during the Great European War; and there are many -other places of note and fame on the once hazardous -way, now followed by the railway, that leads across the -hills to the head-streams of the Liddel and thence to -those of the North Tyne, or to the “Debatable Land”, -the Solway, and Carlisle. Another crowd of warlike -memories and of pastoral and woodland charms awaits -those who, from Hawick, or from the old Douglas seat -of Cavers, lower down Teviotdale, explore the Hobkirk -valley, or pass over the skirts of Ruberslaw into Rule -Water—to Bonchester and to Hobkirk, where Thomson -planned his <i>Seasons</i>, and to Southdean, where -the poet spent his early years, and to the Carter Bar -and the Border.</p> -<p>A few miles below Hawick, past Hornshole and past -Denholm, the birthplace of John Leyden—the poet, -the Oriental scholar, the friend of Scott, whose “brief -and bright career” closed too soon in the Malay East—below -“dark Ruberslaw” and the Dunion, which -interposes its round-backed form between the “mining -Rule” and the “crystal Jed”, and more directly under -the Minto Crags and the Chesters moors, lies one of the -loveliest bits on Teviot. Haughs and dells, green hills -and wide sweeps of river spread around the fragments -of Fatlips Castle, whose owner, a Turnbull, dwelt</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_25">25</div> -<div class="verse"> -<p class="t0">“Mid cliffs from whence his eagle eye</p> -<p class="t0">Full many a league his prey could spy”;</p> -</div> -<p>and around Minto House, the home, since the Union, of -the Elliots, a race great in law and in war, in song and -in statecraft, with whom, through their descent from -“Gibbie with the Gowden Garters”, a daughter of -Harden, Sir Walter could “count kin”. Jed Water -and Ale Water come in from south and north, farther -down, and here, too, every foot is famous. The “Minstrel” -sings of scenes, on the track of William of Deloraine, -“good at need”, among them</p> -<div class="verse"> -<p class="t0">“Ancient Riddel’s fair domain,</p> -<p class="t">Where Aill, from mountains freed,</p> -<p class="t0">Down from the lakes did raving come;</p> -<p class="t0">Each wave was crested with tawny foam,</p> -<p class="t">Like the mane of a chestnut steed”.</p> -</div> -<p>The inflow of this turbulent stream is below the fine old -tree-surrounded Ancrum House. It is overshadowed -by Penielheugh and by the ridge of Lilliard’s Edge, -across which the main road from Carlisle, that has -followed the course of the Teviot almost from its source, -toils painfully over to the valley of the Tweed. On a day -in 1545, Ancrum Moor</p> -<div class="verse"> -<p class="t">“Ran red with English blood,</p> -<p class="t0">Where the Douglas true and the bold Buccleuch</p> -<p class="t">’Gainst keen Lord Evers stood”—</p> -</div> -<p>a victory to which, according to traditions, “fair Maid -Lilliard” contributed manfully, until, like a hero of -“Chevy Chase”, she “fought upon her stumps”.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_26">26</div> -<p>Jed Water is still more charged with the history and -legends of the past. Much of it, including Jedburgh -Abbey, is the patrimony of the branch of the Kerrs -represented by the Marquis of Lothian, whose modern -seat, Mount Teviot, lies opposite Jedfoot, while the -ancient home of the family, Ferniehirst, begins to run to -decay. It would take many pages to do justice—even -“Jeddart justice”—to Jedburgh, whose townsfolk, armed -with their “Jeddart staves” and to their slogan of -“Jeddart’s Here!” were in the front of the Border Wars. -Its Abbey, founded by David the Saint, who placed -here Augustinian canons from Beauvais early in the -twelfth century, is still, in spite of having been seven -times burned, the stateliest and the best preserved of the -mediæval religious houses of the Scott Country. The -site of the Royal Castle, where in the “Golden Age” of -the Borders Alexander III held court after his second -marriage, has disappeared under public buildings; but -the house in the Backgate is pointed out where Mary -Queen of Scots lay sick to death after her perilous -ride to Hermitage, as well as the lodging in the -Castlegate occupied by Prince Charlie on his march -into England.</p> -<p>His road lay over a shoulder of Carter Fell into Redesdale, -where runs what is still the only way across the hills -for wheeled traffic in the sixty miles between Wooler, -on the Till, and Riccarton, on the Liddel, although the -<span class="pb" id="Page_27">27</span> -Romans built over the Cheviots paved roads, one of -which descended into the head of Kale Water, and, -from the site of the old Border Trysts at Pennymuir, -ran straight as a ruled line to the camp of Newstead, -under Eildon. From end to end these hills are -deserted, except by the shepherd and the sportsman. -Along the “wild and willowed shore” of Teviot and of -Jed, the “glaring balefires blaze no more”. The race of -the mosstroopers—of “John o’ the Side” and “Christie’s -Will”, the “Laird’s Jock” and “Hobbie Noble”—is -long extinct. But there are still to be found fine products -of the soil, of the type of the stalwart tenant of -Charlieshope. The Border spirit may have run into -manufactures, and pastoral and arable farming, and Kirk -and State contentions, but anyone who fancies it is -dead should attend a “Common Riding”, or an otter or -fox-hunt, or a game of curling or of hand- or foot-ball in -these parts; or a meeting or parting of Hawick “Teeries” -or of “Jedburgh callants”. He will doubt no more.</p> -<p>Dryburgh Abbey is less than ten miles distant from -Jedburgh, in a straight line. But there are marked -features distinguishing it from its Teviotdale neighbour -as well as from the Abbeys standing below and -above it on Tweedside—Kelso and Melrose. It was -planted in its corner of Berwickshire by baronial and -not by kingly beneficence, its founder being the great -Hugh de Morville, in David’s time Constable of Scotland -<span class="pb" id="Page_28">28</span> -and Lord of Lauderdale, whose tomb is near the -site of the high altar. It was smaller in size and less -richly endowed than the other three, but is not less -generously invested with historic and legendary interest. -Its fate and condition are not dissimilar, for -like the others it was many times burned and ravaged -in the Border wars, and was afterwards abandoned for -centuries to neglect and decay. These Tweedside -monastic houses have now fallen upon happier times; -for, apart from the reverence they have gathered from -the past, and not least from their association with Sir -Walter Scott, they have lately become national possessions, -through the generosity of the Duke of Roxburghe -at Kelso, of the Duke of Buccleuch at Melrose, and of -Lord Glenconner at Dryburgh. The Præmonstratensian -Abbey on the bend of the Tweed under -Bemerside Hill differs from its rivals in respect that it -has preserved more of the monastic buildings and less -of the church. Of Dryburgh Abbey Church—apart from -the north transept, of which more has to be said—little -is left beyond the gables of the south transept and of the -west front, the latter pierced by a five-light window, -surmounting some ruined walls, and the foundations of -piers. But the chapter house—St. Modan’s chapel—is -extant, and its vaulted roof covers interesting architectural -and archæological details, while of the cloisters, -sacristy, fratery, and other domestic buildings of the -“White Friars” of Dryburgh there are considerable -remains, clad in ivy and overhung by immemorial yews -and other trees. Enough survives to indicate a structure -of much grace and beauty, showing a great range of -styles from Romanesque to Later Pointed, and built -of a local reddish sandstone which, as at Melrose, has -weathered into a rich and harmonious variety of colour.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig6"> -<img src="images/p07.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="672" /> -<p class="caption">DRYBURGH ABBEY: THE TOMB OF SIR WALTER SCOTT</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_29">29</div> -<p>It is, however, in its situation and in its happy -blending with its immediate surroundings that Dryburgh -is chiefly distinguished from its compeers. It is -secluded from the world, on the margin of the wide -stream; hidden among woods and overlooked by hills. -To reach it you have to circumvent rivers and climb up -and down steep braes. The easiest way of approach -is by crossing Lessudden Bridge, from the south bank -of the Tweed above the tower of Littledean. This was -the road followed by the “bold Baron” of Smailholm, -whose tower and Beacon Hill, and the standing -stones on the moor of Brotherstone, look down from -the eastern and northern skyline on the scene</p> -<div class="verse"> -<p class="t0">“Over Tweed’s fair flood, and Mertoun’s wood,</p> -<p class="t0">And all down Teviotdale”.</p> -</div> -<p>By Mertoun’s wood, the screen of Dryburgh from gales -blowing from the sea, and now the property of Lord -Polwarth, a Scott of the Harden blood, the way winds -to the Abbey precincts, overshadowed by the great -trees that surround Dryburgh House. Naturally the -<span class="pb" id="Page_30">30</span> -feet first seek the tomb of Sir Walter in St. Mary’s -Aisle. The story of how the best beloved of the sons -of the Border came to be laid under this fragment of -the north transept and choir—a well-preserved piece of -elegant First Pointed work—is itself a romance. His -grandmother on the father’s side, Barbara Haliburton, -was the daughter of a Merse laird, who was owner of -part of the lands of Dryburgh, including the Abbey -ruins. She became his inheritor; but before then -Robert Haliburton had lost his lands through unwise -speculation. David Erskine, eleventh Earl of Buchan—brother -of Lord Chancellor Erskine and of Harry -Erskine, the brilliant wit and pleader—who has left the -impress of his eccentric mind on the colossal statue of -Wallace which stands, “frowning towards England”, -above his suspension bridge for foot passengers crossing -the Tweed from St. Boswells, became possessor of the -ground; and, through Lady Scott, obtained a promise -from the author of <i>Waverley</i> that he should be buried -in this kindred earth. Lady Scott died in 1826, and -Buchan in 1829, while Sir Walter himself was not laid -here until 26th September, 1832. In his fragment of -“Autobiography”, Scott records how he had come to -his own again in this twice-hallowed spot; and, with a -touch of prophecy as well as pathos, he wrote: “And -thus we have nothing left of Dryburgh, although my -father’s maternal inheritance, but the right of stretching -<span class="pb" id="Page_31">31</span> -our bones where mine may perhaps be laid ere any eye -but my own glances over these pages.” Nowhere—not -even in Melrose—could the Wizard rest more tranquilly -than in this scene where nature and art, the present -and the past, and life and death seem to be brought -into perfect accord.</p> -<p>The funeral cortège, coming from Abbotsford, crossed -the Tweed and Leader at Leaderfoot, and climbing, -past Gladswood, by a road with which Scott was -familiar, halted where he had often halted, and where -multitudes have halted since, at a bold and sharp elbow -of the path, raised three hundred feet above the river, -whence an unrivalled view can be had into the heart -of the Scott Country. Immediately below, across the -stream, on a peninsula of land washed on three sides -by the Tweed, is Old Melrose, a spot which had -gathered sanctity many centuries before the mediæval -abbeys rose in the valley. Here a mission station of -the Christian faith was planted from distant Iona; and -hence, probably, travelled Aidan to convert heathen -Northumbria and to found Lindisfarne and Hexham; -here dwelt, as first abbot, his companion Eata, and -also Boisel, who gave his name to St. Boswell’s opposite, -and to whom came for instruction Cuthbert, a -shepherd lad who had been reared at Wrangham, near -Brotherstone, and had tended his flock and seen visions -in the Lammermoors. From “Mailros”, the bald promontory—its -<span class="pb" id="Page_32">32</span> -very name attests the tongue in which -the Celtic founders spoke—St. Cuthbert’s body in its -stone coffin floated downstream on its many wanderings -by water and land; and, as related by Bede, the -hermit Drithelm was wont in winter to break the ice -on the river, and, standing up to the neck in the water, -recite his prayers. Although it was abandoned before -the “Sair Saint” brought to the neighbourhood and to -Scotland the first monks of the Cistercian Order, some -of the prestige of Old Melrose must have clung to the -name and been transferred to the Religious House on -the new site, the ruddy walls of which can be descried, -sheltering at the foot of the Eildons, across the fields -on which, long before the coming of the Columban -missionaries, the Romans planted the expeditionary -camp and permanent station of Trimontium, that have -only lately yielded their secrets to the spade.</p> -<p>This Bemerside Hill is a “Mount of Vision” from -which all the chief shrines and high places of the Scott -Country can be surveyed, at least with the mind’s eye. -Abbotsford itself, if not in actual view, can be mapped -into the scene by direction and position. Out of sight, -directly under the brow of the hill, is the ancient -square fortalice, with later buildings attached, and -grounds stretching down towards the Tweed, where -Haigs have been resident for seven centuries. They -were benefactors of Melrose when Alexander III was -king, and when Thomas the Rhymer was their neighbour -and wellwisher, and uttered the prophecy that -has so mightily helped its own fulfilment:</p> -<div class="img" id="fig7"> -<img src="images/p08.jpg" alt="" width="674" height="1000" /> -<p class="caption">BEMERSYDE HOUSE</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_33">33</div> -<div class="verse"> -<p class="t0">“Betyde, betyde, whate’er betyde,</p> -<p class="t0">Haig shall be Haig of Bemersyde.”</p> -</div> -<p>Sir Walter Scott was a later friend of the family, and -was often a guest in the beautiful rose-garden below -the mansion. A grateful nation bestowed the house -and manor on the late Field-Marshal Earl Haig, -who now lies at rest close by Sir Walter at Dryburgh. -The whole scene and surroundings seem to -be touched by the spirit of prophecy and of poetry. -On the hills opposite stood the “Eildon Tree” and -the “Eildon Stone”; and beyond these, on Abbotsford -property, the reputed “Rhymer’s Glen”, where -“True Thomas” encountered the Queen of Faëry, -although the tryst may well have been at Huntlywood, -behind Brotherstone, on the Eden Water, -and near Corsbie Tower, the ruined “Castle of -Avenel”. As has been said, Drithelm and Cuthbert -were visionaries, so were Boisel, the second Abbot -of the old, and Waldave, the first Abbot of the -new foundation; and centuries before the time of the -Seer of Ercildoune they dreamed dreams and saw -things not of this world and far into the future. -According to popular belief, of like gifts was “Auld -Michael”, whose words “cleft Eildon Hills in three”. -<span class="pb" id="Page_34">34</span> -The last and the greatest of these “Wizard Scotts” -is he who sleeps with his fathers in St. Mary’s Aisle.</p> -<p>When descent is made into the valley of the Leader, -one is still in the land of enchantment. The ivy-covered -“Rhymer’s Tower” is a few miles up the glen, -and on the way, under the Black Hill of Earlston, are -Drygrange and the “Broom o’ the Cowdenknowes”. -Near by, at Mellerstain, lived and sang Grizel Baillie, -who was Grizel Hume; and in the Kirk of Legerwood -is the monument of that other Grizel, who, in the dress -of a highwayman, saved her father’s life by holding up -the King’s officer carrying the writ for his execution. -Higher up Leader are Carolside, and, in a side glen, -Auld Thirlstane, the seat of “Auld Maitland”, and -Spottiswoode, the home of Alicia Spottiswoode—Lady -John Scott—writer and composer of “Bonnie Annie -Laurie” and other thrilling Scots lyrics. The new Thirlstane—it -is hundreds of years old—is in the centre of -Lauderdale, beside the venerable Royal Burgh of Lauder, -the last of the municipalities in the land to retain its old -burghal rights and customs. Many are the hill-forts -and camps that look down on the now peaceful scenes -through which the road—a favourite tourist coach -route—passes on its way from the crossing of the -Lammermoors to the Tweed; and among them are -Channelkirk where Cuthbert heard the summons of -the Heavenly Host, and Edgarshope, by which the -<span class="pb" id="Page_35">35</span> -message of fire that told of the crossing of the border -by the English bands, was wont to be passed on to -Soutra Edge, near by the Hospice of the Red Friars, -to which, and not to Faeryland, Thomas retired from -the world, when he followed the mysterious Hart and -Hind up Leaderside.</p> -<p>Not less richly furnished with the relics of eld and -with the charms of modern cultivation is the parallel -vale of the Gala, the nursery of the “Braw Lads”. -The “Shirra” often traversed it on his way by Midleton -Moor to his home and sphere of jurisdiction on -Ettrick and Tweed, upon which the stream, road, and -railway debouch a little below the mill lades and -chimney stalks of the town of Galashiels, and almost -opposite to Abbotsford. On the links and bends of -the Gala, and its side glens of the Heriot, the Armit, -and the Luggate, are many places of historic note—Crookston, -of the Borthwicks, for example; Stow—the -“Stowe of Wedale”, of Arthurian and mediæval -fame; Bowland, like Eildon Hall, on the farther side -of the Eildons, a possession of the House of Buccleuch; -the ruined “broch” on the Bow Hill, facing, across the -valley, a similar structure which, with the termination -of that ancient and mysterious line of earthworks, the -“Catrail”, occupies the crown of Torwoodlee, of the -Pringles; finally, Buckholm Hill and Tower, looking -over the roofs of the busy seat of tweed manufactures -<span class="pb" id="Page_36">36</span> -to Gala Hill and Gala House of the Scotts. “Gala -Water, Buckholm, Torwoodlee”, were among the last -audible words murmured by the dying “Border -Minstrel”.</p> -<p>Between “Leader howms” and Gala Water runs -the little stream of the Allan or Alwyne through the -“Fairy Dean”. Lovers of Scott will not pass it by, -because, apart from the loveliness of its succession of -wood-embowered haughs, it leads to a spot where three -ruined peel towers—Hillslap, Colmslie, and Langshaw—stand -not many bowshots apart, memorials of the time -when the smaller lairds had to bind themselves -together by a “bond of manrent”, for protection -against their more powerful neighbours; and the first of -these has been identified, with some sanction from -Scott himself, as the “Glendearg” of the Glendinnings -in <i>The Monastery</i> and <i>The Abbot</i>. Near the bridge -which crosses the Tweed at the “Pavilion of Alwyn”, -and the “groves of noble Somerville”, was the scene of -the misadventure of Philip, the Sacristan, at the hands -of the spirits, and of Mysie Happer, the daughter of the -miller of the Halidome. The dairy farm of the “monks of -St. Mary’s” was on Allan Water; up it led the “girth-gait” -which they often followed on the way to Soutra -Hospice. True Thomas’s rhymed sayings cling to this -countryside like—in Father Philip’s phrase—“burrs to -a beggar’s rags”. The region between Leaderfoot and -Galashiels was part of the original patrimony of the -Cistercian Abbey; all the way, but especially where -Gattonside, set on its hillside and surrounded by its -famous orchards, “beiks in the sun”, one sees, in -glimpses or in full view,</p> -<div class="img" id="fig8"> -<img src="images/p09.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="666" /> -<p class="caption">MELROSE ABBEY: CHOIR AND NORTH TRANSEPT</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_37">37</div> -<div class="verse"> -<p class="t0">“Where fair Tweed flows round holy Melrose</p> -<p class="t0">And Eildon slopes to the plain”.</p> -</div> -<p>In drawing near to Melrose, especially if one crosses -at Leaderfoot, and approaches by the village of Newstead -and over the site of the Roman camp, one feels there is -something to be said for Dorothy Wordsworth’s disappointment -on coming first into near view of the -Abbey. It stands back from the river—perhaps because -the river has left it—and apart from the hills. It is in -the fields outside of the village, the streets of which -come to its gate and stop there; and it is surrounded by -walls, which interrupt and deform proportions seriously -injured by the loss of its central tower. Melrose—“the -light of the land, the abode of saints, the grave of -monarchs”—is a glorious fragment, more beautiful, -perhaps, in detail than in general effect, in ornament -than in design; and memorable even more for its -legendary and literary associations than for its actual -history. The monastery dates from the same abbey-building -reign as its rivals on Tweedside; but architecturally -the church belongs to another horizon. Of -the original Norman fabric that stood on the site -<span class="pb" id="Page_38">38</span> -scarcely a trace remains. It was swept away during -the descent upon it of Edward II in 1322, and what -remained must have perished under the equally destructive -assault of Richard II in 1385. Between these -two dates, a building arose, represented by the eastern -end of the nave with its flying buttresses and by -adjoining parts of the choir and transepts, that may be -regarded as a monument of the piety and the gratitude -of Robert the Bruce, whose heart, brought back from -the Paynim lands to which the “good Sir James” of -Douglas had carried it, is buried in the Abbey. The -work of rebuilding was continued for nearly a couple of -centuries longer; and it is evident that the highest art -and craftsmanship the age could produce were employed -in construction and in ornament, which, owing -to the fineness of grain of the red sandstone employed, -remains in wonderful preservation. It is doubtful -whether it was completed before the tempests of the -Tudor invasions and of the Reformation fell upon it, -and the monks were put to flight. It has not been -definitely ascertained how far the long nave extended -to the westward, or what was the plan of the monastic -buildings, of which and of the cloister only a few -fragments are left on the northern side of the church. -The presbytery, with its much extolled “east oriel” -window, was probably among the later additions, and is -one of the finest examples of Perpendicular Gothic -<span class="pb" id="Page_39">39</span> -extant. Scott would have us view it when the moon is -shining “through slender shafts of shapely stone, by -foliaged tracery combined”, and to imagine that</p> -<div class="verse"> -<p class="t6">“Some fairy’s hand</p> -<p class="t0">’Twixt poplars straight the ozier wand,</p> -<p class="t0">In many a freakish knot, had twined”.</p> -</div> -<p>But even more wonderful and beautiful to many eyes is -the great Decorated window of the south transept that -lightens the aisle in which, as is fabled, the Wizard -Michael sleeps with his magic books beside him. -Familiar are the lines in which Sir Walter, a constant -pilgrim to this shrine, chants its praises—of its cloister -garth:</p> -<div class="verse"> -<p class="t0">“Nor herb, nor floweret, glistened there,</p> -<p class="t0">But was carved in the cloister-arches fair”;</p> -</div> -<p>of the vaulted roof, where</p> -<div class="verse"> -<p class="t0">“The key-stone that locked each ribbéd aisle</p> -<p class="t0">Was a fleur-de-lys or a quatrefeuille”;</p> -</div> -<p>and of the pillars, with their clustered shafts, that</p> -<div class="verse"> -<p class="t0">“With base and with capital flourished around</p> -<p class="t0">Seem’d bundles of lances which garlands had bound”.</p> -</div> -<p>It must have been a labour of love to frame this -marvellously carved casket, in which are laid the ashes of -kings and prelates. Here rest the chiefs of the once -mighty House of Douglas, and, not far away, of the -English Warden who desecrated their tombs and was -overtaken and slain at Ancrum Moor; among minor -clans “Ye race of ye House of Zair”—Kerrs and -Pringles; and, later in date but of the same stubborn -<span class="pb" id="Page_40">40</span> -and trusty Border stuff, Tom Purdie, the reclaimed -poacher and faithful watchdog and factotum of the -Laird of Abbotsford. The prayer of John Morvo, -inscribed on the wall of the south transept,</p> -<div class="verse"> -<p class="t0">“I pray to God and Marie baith</p> -<p class="t0">And sweet St. John keep this haly Kirk frae skaith”,</p> -</div> -<p>has not been fulfilled. To other bludgeonings of fate -was added its conversion into the parish church in the -seventeenth century. Walter Scott helped to rescue it -from vandalism and neglect; and he continues to be the -guardian spirit of the “dark Abbaye”.</p> -<p>Not less than in the days of the monks is the -adjacent town of Melrose—“Kennaquair” the residence -of the antiquarian Captain Cuthbert Clutterbuck—an -appanage of the Abbey, out of which indeed -it has partly been built. One looks in vain for the -“Druid Oak”, which existed only in Scott’s fancy. -But Melrose has its market cross and market place, -and does a modest business with the country round. -Its chief source of prosperity, however, is in its -situation and its associations; it may be called the -capital of the “Scott Country”. Abbotsford is little -more than a couple of miles away. The road to it -passes Darnick Tower, a red keep festooned with -greenery, the stronghold of one of the lay vassals of the -Abbey; and skirts, in the grounds of the Hydropathic -Establishment, the “skirmish field” on which was -<span class="pb" id="Page_41">41</span> -fought in 1526 the fray between the Scotts and the -Kerrs of the Douglas faction that gave rise to a long -feud between the clans. Scott, it may be noted, -speaks of the scene, when</p> -<div class="verse"> -<p class="t3">“Cessford’s heart-blood dear</p> -<p class="t0">Reeked on dark Elliot’s Border spear”,</p> -</div> -<p>as if it had taken place beside the ruined Kerr stronghold -of Holydean, on the southern side of the hills -beyond Huntly-burn and the “Rhymer’s Glen”, and -thus near to the pretty village of Bowden, which sits -under the lowest of the three Eildons, and looks down -into the valley of the Ale and towards Cavers Carre and -Lilliesleaf.</p> -<p>The fields and woods sloping down from Bowden -Moor and Cauldshields Loch, on the left of the way -from Melrose to Abbotsford, are part of the possessions -which Sir Walter gathered together between 1811, -when he had to give up Ashestiel, and 1824; and -they still belong to his descendants. The nucleus -of the property was the little farm of Cartley, or Clarty, -Hole, on the Tweed a little above the inflow of the -Gala. It lay almost opposite to the site of the plum -trees that, according to a story of Border foray much -cherished in Galashiels, gave to that town the burghal -arms and the slogan tune of “Soor Plooms”, the -favourite bagpipe air of Scott’s Kelso uncle. On the -strength of a tradition that there was here a crossing-place -<span class="pb" id="Page_42">42</span> -of the monks, Abbotsford got its new and ever -memorable name. A modest cottage, which forms part -of the west wing, gradually grew with the growth of the -owner’s fame and fortunes, until, at the end of fourteen -years, by addition and reconstruction, mainly all of Sir -Walter’s own devising, it had become the stately -baronial mansion, adorned with turrets, corbels, and -crowsteps, that challenges the eye by its form and size -as well as by its history. Into it the author of the -<i>Waverley Novels</i> may be said to have built his fancies, -his aspirations, and his ambitions; and here he counted -on spending the evening of his days in well-earned rest, -surrounded by his children and his friends, and by the -love and admiration of his fellow countrymen. Hardly -had this “poem in stone and lime” been brought to -completion when an untimely frost blasted his hopes, -and with unimpaired courage, but with gradually failing -strength, he turned to a task, greater than any that ever -fell to his namesake the “michty Michael”, and worked -unremittingly, with hand and brain, for another seven -years’ term until he came back for the last time to Abbotsford, -a spent and broken man, to die. Sadder far his -return than his departure a year before in quest of -health, when</p> -<div class="verse"> -<p class="t0">“A trouble, not of clouds or weeping rain,</p> -<p class="t0">Nor of the setting sun’s pathetic light</p> -<p class="t0">Engendered, hung o’er Eildon’s triple height”.</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_43">43</div> -<p>It brought the last touch of tragedy and of heroism -to the closing scene of that noble life—to the passing -of the marvellous power, the warm and generous -heart, the gallant spirit that was Walter Scott. He -enjoyed, however, many happy days in Abbotsford; it -is associated more with his triumphs than with his -misfortunes. Here he trod his fields, delighted “to -call this wooded patch of earth his own”, entertained -literary celebrities like Washington Irving, Maria -Edgeworth, and the Wordsworths, held almost feudal -receptions of his retainers and neighbours, talked and -walked with his familiars—Lockhart, Skene, Cranstoun, -the “beloved Erskine”—and with his “ain folk”, and -planned and wrote his novels. Tweed sings a blither -as well as a fuller strain since he dwelt by it.</p> -<p>Into the house, he built material more substantial -than his hopes. Scott had the antiquarian temper and -taste; and like Burns’s Grose, and his own Oldbuck, he -gathered about him “a routh o’ auld nicknackets”, -many of them the free-will offering of admirers. In this -way the door of the old Edinburgh Tolbooth—the -“Heart of Midlothian”—came into his possession, -along with the ponderous lock and key over which -“Daddie Ratton” had held charge. Sculptured and inscribed -stones from the High Street and Canongate -houses have also found their way here; while within the -house has been collected a museum of Border antiquities, -<span class="pb" id="Page_44">44</span> -along with portraits, and personal souvenirs and relics, -gathered from all corners of the land. The house has -been left “very much as in Sir Walter’s time”; and a -constant stream of pilgrims visits it. In the library are -relics of Napoleon, of Prince Charlie and Flora Macdonald, -of Nelson and Wellington; in the drawing-room, -among other famous pictures, is Raeburn’s portrait of -Scott; in the armoury, memorials of Rob Roy, Montrose, -Claverhouse, and Archbishop Sharpe, and the keys of -Loch Leven Castle, while on the walls are blazoned the -escutcheons of “ye Clannis and men of name quha -keepit ye Scottish Marches in the days of auld”. But -more impressive than any of these things are the chair -in which Scott sat to write or dictate and the pen that -in his hand was as a magician’s rod.</p> -<p>The way from Abbotsford to Selkirk, by the valleys of -the Tweed and Ettrick, past Fawdonside and Lindean, -was a familiar one to the “Shirra”. He had legal and -other county business that carried him often during a -third of a century to the head town of his Forest Sheriffdom; -and inclination went hand in hand with duty, for -the road led to Ettrick and Yarrow, to “Sweet Bowhill” -and to</p> -<div class="verse"> -<p class="t0">“The shattered front of Newark’s towers</p> -<p class="t0">Renowned in Border story”.</p> -</div> -<div class="img" id="fig9"> -<img src="images/p10.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="670" /> -<p class="caption">ABBOTSFORD</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_45">45</div> -<p>Selkirk—the old “church of the shielings”, which, in -the days when David I and his successors hunted in the -forest of Ettrick, served the royal sportsmen for their -orisons—narrowly missed being the seat of an Abbey. -A colony of Tyronesian monks were settled in it more -than eight centuries ago, but were removed, “for convenience”, -to Kelso. The “Souters of Selkirk” have since -given themselves to war, to shoemaking, and latterly to -tweed manufacture. But the town has not neglected -poetry, and bards of later date have been born and have -sung in it, since Burns and Scott drew the “birse” -across their lips. It is set well above the vale of the -Ettrick, at the gate of the Haining policies; and its -public buildings are gathered around the triangular -market-place, in which stands a statue of Sir Walter in -his sheriff’s robes. In the Free Library is hung the -Flodden Standard brought home by the survivors of -that day of disaster, when “the Flowers o’ the Forest -were a’ wede awa’”.</p> -<p>In 1645 Montrose was resting, with his cavalry, in -Selkirk, his infantry encamped at Philiphaugh, on the -other side of Ettrick, when David Lesley crept up on -him from Melrose, in the mist of a September morning. -In two or three hours the fruits of nine brilliant -victories were lost, and the great captain was a fugitive -speeding across Minchmoor to Traquair, where, the door -being shut on him, he passed on to Clydesdale and the -Highlands. There have been many romantic crossings of -Minchmoor, and meetings and partings at “Wallace’s -<span class="pb" id="Page_46">46</span> -Trench”—part of the old Catrail or Picts’ Dyke—and at -the Cheese Well. Walter Scott accompanied his friend -Mungo Park—whose statue stands near his own in the -streets of Selkirk—when Park was starting on his -African journey. They separated on the ridge above -Williamhope, where, as has already been told, Sir -William Douglas, the “Flower of Chivalry”, was slain -by his cousin the Earl of Douglas, in revenge, it is said, -for the most unchivalrous deed of the starving to death, -in Hermitage Castle, of Sir Alexander de Ramsay. -Across this high moor between Yarrow and Tweed came -James V, with five belted earls, to the meeting with the -“Outlaw Murray”, lord of Hangingshaws, and Newark, -and Philiphaugh and other lands on Yarrow. The king’s -message ran—</p> -<div class="verse"> -<p class="t0">“Bid him meet me at Permanscore,<a class="fn" id="fr_1" href="#fn_1">[1]</a></p> -<p class="t">And bring four in his companie;</p> -<p class="t0">Five earls sall come wi’ mysel,</p> -<p class="t">Good reason I suld honoured be”.</p> -</div> -<p>Permanscore is a hollow of the hill, “where wind and -water shears”, and here, three hundred years after the -“Outlaw’s” time, the “Shirra” assembled and conducted -“a perambulation of the marches” in a case of disputed -boundaries.</p> -<p>Carterhaugh—the meadow on which faithful Janet -met “Young Tamlane”, and, by holding him through -all his grisly transformations, rescued him from Fairy-land—lies -<span class="pb" id="Page_47">47</span> -in the fork between Ettrick and Yarrow. -Behind it is Bowhill, at the time when the <i>Lay</i> was -written the favourite seat of the Buccleuch family; and -the “Duchess’s Walk”, along the right bank of the -Yarrow, is named from the lady who suggested to -Scott the “Goblin Page” as an episode of the <i>Lay</i>. -It leads to where</p> -<div class="verse"> -<p class="t6">“Newark’s stately tower</p> -<p class="t0">Looks out from Yarrow’s birchen bower”,</p> -</div> -<p>and to the “embattled portal arch”</p> -<div class="verse"> -<p class="t0">“Whose ponderous grate and massy bar</p> -<p class="t0">Had oft rolled back the tide of war”.</p> -</div> -<p>Within the deserted walls, the widowed Duchess of -Buccleuch and Monmouth is pictured as listening to -the tale of the Last Minstrel. Local tradition has it -that in the courtyard the Irish prisoners who surrendered -at Philiphaugh were massacred; another story asserts -that they were slaughtered on “Slainmenslee”. Newark -was a royal hunting-seat in the fifteenth century; -and its possession carried with it the Hereditary Sheriffdom -of the Forest, which with many things else in this -country came to the House of Buccleuch.</p> -<p>Over against Newark is Foulshiels, the birthplace -of Mungo Park. Broadmeadows and Lewinhope and -Tinnis are higher up the stream, which here runs between -steep wooded hills, cloven by narrow side glens -and with spaces of rich haughland on its margin. -<span class="pb" id="Page_48">48</span> -Yarrow burrows under banks of birch and hazel, or -overshadowed by fine forest trees. The vale is “strewn -with the sites of the tragedies of far-off years, forgotten -by history, but remembered in song and tradition”; -it is “the very sanctuary of romantic ballad-love. Its -clear current sings a mournful song of the ‘good heart’s -bluid’ that once stained its wave; of the drowned youth -caught in the ‘cleaving o’ the craig’. The winds that -sweep the hillsides and bend ‘the birks a’ bowing’ -whisper still of the wail of the ‘winsome marrow’, and -have an undernote of sadness on the brightest day -of summer; while with the fall of the red and yellow -leaf the very spirit of ‘pastoral melancholy’ broods -and sleeps in the enchanted valley. Always, by Yarrow, -the comely youth goes forth only to fall by the sword, -fighting against odds in the Dowie Dens, or to be -caught and drowned in the treacherous pools of this -fateful river; always the woman is left to weep over -her lost and lealful lord.” No strict identification of -ballad sites and origins is possible; but the story -of the “Dowie Dens” has become associated with -Tinnis bank and with Deucharswire, beside Yarrow -Kirk; and is said to be founded on the slaughter in -1616 of Walter Scott of Oakwood by the kin of John -Scott of Tushielaw, with whose daughter, Grizel, -Oakwood had contracted an irregular marriage.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig10"> -<img src="images/p11.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="666" /> -<p class="caption">TRAQUAIR</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_49">49</div> -<p>A group of authentic memories gather around -Yarrow Kirk and Manse, and the bridge which carries a -crossroad over the hills to Ettrick. A succession of -cultured pastors have dwelt here, including Dr. Rutherford -the grandfather of Scott, two generations of -Russells, and the late Dr. Borland. By an unfortunate -fire, in the spring of 1922, the restored church was -destroyed, together with the memorials placed in it of -Sir Walter, of Willie Laidlaw, his friend and amanuensis, -of Wordsworth, and of the Ettrick Shepherd, -all of them residents or visitors on Yarrow and worshippers -in this secluded fane. In a field close by -is a stone carved in rude Latin minuscules to the -“Sons of Liberalis, of the Dumnogeni”, a relic of -post-Roman times. Above Yarrow Kirk, the valley -widens until it becomes spacious enough to hold the -clear mirror of St. Mary’s Loch; the hills become -bare and green and smooth, and over the ridge on the -right comes the road from the Tweed by Paddyslack -and Mountbenger to the Gordon Arms. It was from -this road that Wordsworth, in good company, caught -his first, and his last, glimpse of Yarrow—</p> -<div class="verse"> -<p class="t0">“When first descending from the moorlands</p> -<p class="t">I saw the stream of Yarrow glide</p> -<p class="t0">Along a bare and open valley,</p> -<p class="t">The Ettrick Shepherd was my guide.</p> -<p class="t0">When last along its banks I wandered,</p> -<p class="t">Through groves that had begun to shed</p> -<p class="t0">Their golden leaves upon the pathway,</p> -<p class="t">My steps the Border Minstrel led.”</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_50">50</div> -<p>Hogg farmed, unsuccessfully, Mountbenger, before he -removed across Yarrow to Altrieve, where he spent the -last year of his life and where he died. In his youth he -had herded sheep on Blackhouse heights, where looking -down on the ruined peel on the Douglas burn are the -stones that mark the place where the “seven bauld -brethren” fell, in their pursuit of “Lord William and -Lady Margaret”. The escaping lovers lighted down at -this “wan water”.</p> -<div class="verse"> -<p class="t0">“‘Hold up, hold up, Lord William,’ she said,</p> -<p class="t">‘For I fear that ye are slain.’</p> -<p class="t0">‘’Tis naething but the shadow of my scarlet cloak</p> -<p class="t">That shines in the water so plain.’”</p> -</div> -<p>But it was his “heart’s bluid”, and the pair were buried -together in St. Mary’s Church, whose deserted graveyard -is set on a shelf of Hendersyde Hill, overlooking the -loch, and fronting the dome of Bowerhope Hill.</p> -<p>On the banks of a burn which flows into Yarrow a -little below where it issues from the loch is Dryhope -Tower. “Auld Watt” of Harden came to it to bear -away Mary Scott, the “Flower of Yarrow”, and part of -the provision for their housekeeping was the spoils of the -“first harvest-moon”. Half-way along the shore of St. -Mary’s, at Cappercleuch, pours in the Meggat Water, a -stream that drains some of the highest ground in the -Southern Uplands. It was a favourite royal hunting-forest -in 1529, when James V came this way intent on -the extirpation of the Border thieves; and fate threw in -<span class="pb" id="Page_51">51</span> -his path Cockburn of Henderland, whose tower was -near Meggatfoot. The hollow and waterfall of the -“Dowglen” are shown where his lady sought shelter, -while “they broke her bower and slew her knight”; -the spot, with names inscribed, can be seen in a little -clump of wood beside the ruined peel to which she -bore him on her back and dug his grave:—</p> -<div class="verse"> -<p class="t0">“And thinkna ye my heart was sair</p> -<p class="t0">When I laid the mools on his yellow hair;</p> -<p class="t0">And thinkna ye my heart was wae</p> -<p class="t0">When I turned aside awa to gae”.</p> -</div> -<p>Unfortunately for tradition, the fact is on record -that Cockburn of Henderland, like his neighbour Scott -of Tushielaw, was tried and executed at Edinburgh. -James Hogg would have made small ado about brushing -such obstructions out of the way of romance. His -statue stands at the head of St. Mary’s Loch—the -presiding genius of the scene. The road up Yarrow, -passing through the woods of Rodono, holds out beyond -it, by the Loch of the Lowes and Chapelhope to Birkhill, -and then, under the “Grey Mare’s Tail” and White -Coombe, down Moffatdale. But the seated figure of -the burly Shepherd, wrapped in his plaid, faces “Tibbie -Shiels”, the rendezvous of generations of thirsty -fishers and poets, on the narrow space between the -lochs, and looks towards the hills up which the crossroad -climbs steeply, making for Ettrick. It was at this -famous hostelry that Hogg gave his classical order, -<span class="pb" id="Page_52">52</span> -after a hard night’s drinking with Christopher North -and other congenial company, “Tibbie, bring in the -Loch!” “He taught the wandering winds to sing”, -reads the inscription on his monument; and the strong -song of the winds that blow down Ettrick accompanies -the traveller as he climbs over by the Packman’s -Grave, descends to Tushielaw and, turning upstream -at Crosslee, follows the valley to the Shepherd’s -birthplace and grave, beside Ettrick Kirk. -This out-of-the-world nook in the hills—for the road up -Ettrickdale comes to an end a few miles higher, under -Ettrick Pen—may be reckoned the heart of pastoral -Scotland. The thoughts and the talk of the inhabitants -are absorbed in sheep—except what may be reserved -for sport, and “auld farrant tales”, and church affairs. -Around the Shepherd rest many of his own kin and -kind: farmers and herds, lairds and tenants, reivers, -smugglers, and gypsies—and in this strange mixed -company, “Boston of Ettrick”, of the “Fourfold State”, -the great preacher and Covenanting divine.</p> -<p>The Castle of Thirlstane, on Ettrick, stands a little -below the kirk, with a fragment of Gamescleuch Tower -facing it on the opposite bank. Thirlstane belonged to -the “Ready, aye Ready” Scotts, until it went by -marriage to its present possessors the Napiers. Tushielaw -was another hold of the clan, and here dwelt Adam -Scott—“King of the Thieves”, and “King of the -<span class="pb" id="Page_53">53</span> -Borders”—the father of Mary, the “Forest Flower” of -the “Queen’s Wake”—until his rival from Holyrood -came and “justified” him, says legend, on the Doom -Tree at his own door.</p> -<p>Across the water from Tushielaw “Rankleburn’s -lonely side” leads far into the hills. Rankleburn is the -traditional first home of the Scotts in the basin of the -Tweed, although Kirkurd in the Lyne valley might put -in an earlier claim. They are even said to have drawn -their name and their chief title from this deserted glen, -high up which lies Buccleuch, now marked only by -the foundations of a chapel wall. Scott of Satchells, -who wrote the family story in halting rhyme, in 1686, -tells how a wandering Scott from Galloway, in the -remote days of Kenneth II, seized a hunted buck by -the horns, swung it on his shoulders and brought it to -the king:—</p> -<div class="verse"> -<p class="t0">“And for the buck thou stoutly brought</p> -<p class="t">To us up that steep heugh,</p> -<p class="t0">Thy designation ever shall</p> -<p class="t">Be John Scott of Buck’s cleuch”.</p> -</div> -<p>Neither at Gilmanscleuch, nor on the Deloraine -burn, nor at the Dodhead have the men of the type of -Jamie Telfer, who, “steady of heart and stout of -hand, once drove their prey from Cumberland”, left any -trace of themselves in standing walls. A reminiscence -of old forest times survives in such names as Hindhope -and Hartwoodmyres; the shell of an ancient peel -<span class="pb" id="Page_54">54</span> -guards, at Kirkhope, the “Swire Road” across -the “Witchie Knowe” from Yarrow to Ettrick -Bridgend; and Oakwood has something more substantial -to show in the shape of the red keep which -local legend insists was built by the redoubtable Sir -Michael Scott himself, although its foundations must -have been laid centuries after his date. Enough -for us that it was in the keeping of “Auld Watt” -of Harden.</p> -<div class="verse"> -<p class="t0">“Wide lay his lands round Oakwood Tower</p> -<p class="t0">And wide round haunted Castle Ower.”</p> -</div> -<p>At Oakwood we are back again beside Selkirk, and -at Selkirk we are near where, each skirting the grounds -of Sunderland Hall, Tweed and Ettrick meet, and -where we can resume our course up the larger stream. -With the delightful section of the Tweed between The -Rink and Elibank, Walter Scott had many close ties. -The right bank, and part of the left, were within his -jurisdiction as Sheriff, in which office he succeeded his -friend, Andrew Plummer of Sunderland Hall, in 1799. -But even earlier he made familiar acquaintance with the -district, on angling and walking excursions, and had -visited the Russells and “Laird Nippy”, at Ashestiel. -The Rutherfords of Fairnilee—the old house in which -was born Alison Rutherford, the author of the popular -version of “The Flowers of the Forest”, stands roofless -and deserted, but a new mansion has risen in its neighbourhood—were -of his kin. He was a welcome guest -also with the Pringles of Yair, whose home, bound about -by the woods and hills, is across the river, with the “sister -heights of Yair”, otherwise known as the “Three -Brethren”, as background. It may be remembered -that it was with a son of “the long-descended lord of -Yair”, Alexander Pringle of Clovenfords, that in later -days he went over the field of Waterloo. Clovenfords -was the nearest point of his Sheriffdom to town, and it -was convenient for him to take up occasional residence -there. Leyden had been schoolmaster in the village, -which stands high above the rocky den of the Caddon, -on the Peebles and Galashiels road, a mile from the -“bonny bit” of Caddonfoot. While raising grapes and -other fruit it piously preserves the memory of the -author of <i>Marmion</i> in the form of an effigy set up -before the door of the inn, where, besides Scott, -William and Dorothy Wordsworth and other famous -travellers have sojourned.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig11"> -<img src="images/p12.jpg" alt="" width="668" height="1001" /> -<p class="caption">ASHESTIEL: SCOTT’S FIRST HOUSE IN THE BORDER COUNTRY</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_55">55</div> -<p>In 1804, Scott found it convenient to take a lease of -Ashestiel; and that leafy cover became his home for -the next seven years. It is within a couple of miles of -Clovenfords and Caddonfoot. Under Caddonlee, where -William the Lion waited with his bands from the -Highlands and the Lothians, until he was joined by the -Forest men on his ill-fated invasion of England, Tweed -is crossed by a single wide arch to where “Glenkinnen’s -<span class="pb" id="Page_56">56</span> -rill” and glen open a short cut, oft traversed with the -“Yair boys”, to Yarrow. Near the Peel burn is a knoll -shaded by oak and birch—the “Shirra’s Knowe”—where -part of <i>Marmion</i> is said to have been written. -The house, much changed since Scott’s day, turns its -front and two extended wings away from the Tweed; -but its most attractive aspect is perhaps that towards -the river. The little stream, that with its hoarse roaring -in spate used to keep the great author, then just -blossoming into fame, from his sleep, still tumbles -through the garden. His armchair, which came back -from Abbotsford after his death, and the window through -which his favourite dogs sprang in or out at his call, -are still shown. In these Ashestiel years he saw the -last volume of the <i>Minstrelsy</i> through the press, published -the <i>Lay</i>, completed <i>Marmion</i> and <i>The Lady -of the Lake</i>, edited Dryden, and began but laid aside -<i>Waverley</i>. His legal work was not absorbing, and he -had time, aside from literature, for following the hounds, -“burning the water”, making raids into the Forest, and -holding convivial meetings with his friends. They -were perhaps the happiest, if not the most brilliant, -years of his life.</p> -<p>At Elibank, a couple of miles above Ashestiel, we -leave Selkirkshire and enter Peeblesshire. The bare -grey walls of the old castle of Gideon Murray, of the -Black Barony branch of the name, a lord of Session and -<span class="pb" id="Page_57">57</span> -trusted Councillor of James VI, stands well above the -tree-line, against the background of the hills, and -commands a wide view of Upper and Lower Tweeddale. -History, in this region, arranges itself in strata, with -the oldest at the top—by the river margin are road and -rail, farms with their fertile haughs, and the houses and -tweed-mills of Walkerburn and Innerleithen; fragments -of peels and bastiles of the fighting times when -Thornielee and Holylee were onsteads of the monks -or of the king’s forest vassals, are perched on the -ridges, or hide in the folds or “hopes” of the hills, -on whose summits are found the forts and cairns of a -still earlier day. The outposts of the Moorfoots come -to the left bank of the river, and behind them are the -broad shoulders of Windlestraelaw; while over against -them are steep outliers of Minchmoor—Elibank, Bold -and Plora Laws. “Juden” Murray’s tower is of feudal -date and aspect. Scott tells the story of how Young -Harden, son of Auld Watt and the “Flower of Yarrow”, -and presumably a personable young man, was captured -by the owner of the tower and was about to be hanged, -when the more politic lady pointed out that she had three -ill-favoured daughters to dispose of, and the prisoner was -happily married to the youngest and plainest, “Mucklemou’d -Meg”. An injudicial proceeding; but not more so -than the transaction by which Murray’s neighbour, Lord -Traquair, had the President of the Court of Session -<span class="pb" id="Page_58">58</span> -carried off from Leith Links, by a Border freebooter, -Christie’s Will, and kept in a dungeon of Hermitage -Castle, until a case was decided in Traquair’s favour. -Doubt has been thrown on both stories, and in particular -it has been objected that Gideon Murray, whose -descendants, the Lords Elibank of to-day, are established -at Darn Hall on Eddleston Water, had only one -daughter, that her name was Agnes, and that, although -she married Young Harden, the alliance was with full -consent of all parties concerned.</p> -<p>Lee Pen and Kirnie Law stand sentinels at the -entrance of Leithen Water, up which the houses of -Innerleithen straggle for a mile or more, along a road -which runs across into Lothian, by the Piper’s Grave, -the Heriot Water, and Carcant. It is a way by which -Walter Scott, walking or driving, has often reached -Tweedside, and he would note in passing Leithen -Hopes, where his friend Hogg was once a herd laddie, -and on the lower slope of the Pen, south of Lee Tower -and above the village, the beginnings of the new “Spa”. -The topographical resemblances of “St. Ronan’s” to -Innerleithen are not very close; and Sir Bingo Binks, -Lady Penelope Penfeather, Dr. Quackleben, and other -types in Scott’s solitary attempt at a satiric portrayal of -the social manners and humours of his own day, are not -of local growth. One looks in vain, also, for a “Cleikum -Inn” nearer than Peebles. Yet the spirit of Meg Dods -<span class="pb" id="Page_59">59</span> -pervades the place, the inhabitants of which eagerly -accepted the identification and “recognized some of the -characters as genuine portraits”. They have even -adopted the device, on the inn-sign, of “St. Ronan and -the Devil” as the burgh arms.</p> -<p>Geologists—who, “knappin the chucky stanes to -pieces wi’ hammers”, reminded Meg of “sae many -stane masons run daft”—still frequent the locality, along -with anglers and tourists; for at Thornilee, as well as -across Tweed at Grieston and the Glen, are celebrated -beds of fossiliferous rocks. The bridge is not far above -the pool—the “Droon-pouch”—from which the body -of the young son of King Malcolm the Maiden was -drawn by the Innerleithen people, in gratitude for which -its church was made a “Sanctuary” with privileges -equal to those of Stow and of Tyninghame. On the -farther side is the entrance to the valley of the Quair, -and the woods surrounding the venerable form of -Traquair House. Its claim to be “the oldest inhabited -house in Scotland” applies specifically to its western -wing, which is said to date back fully nine centuries. -However this may be, the antique character of Traquair -is written on its outward features as well as inscribed -in its record. It passed through the hands of a succession -of royal favourites, of whom the last was James -III’s musician and “familiar shield-bearer”, Rogers, -who was among those hung over Lauder Bridge by -<span class="pb" id="Page_60">60</span> -the jealous nobles, before it came into the possession -of a branch of the Stewart Earls of Buchan. The -Traquair Stewarts have been of mixed reputation; but -the tradition of loyalty to the cause of their Royal kin -now clings to the house and is symbolized in the great -Bear Gateway—the prototype of that of the “Barons -of Bradwardine” in <i>Waverley</i>—which is not to be -opened until a Stewart King comes again this way.</p> -<p>Like the house itself, all its surroundings breathe of -the poetry and romance of the past. For was it not -behind Plora Craig that “Bonnie Kilmeny gaed up the -glen”? Are there not some scrogs of birch left by the -waterside of the much besung “Bush aboon Traquair”? -Were not the dwelling of Willie Laidlaw, and the scene -of “Lucy’s Flitting” in the upper valley, in which -stands the lordly mansion of Lord Glenconner—“The -Glen” <i>par excellence</i>? And above all, is it not by the -road along the Quair that one “turns aside to Yarrow”?</p> -<p>In the nine miles between Innerleithen and Peebles -the full current of Tweed winds through a country brimfull -of beauty and story. Whether the road followed upstream -be that on the right or that on the left bank, one -passes the ruins of ancient strongholds and modern -country-seats, set among trees and lawns—on the south -side, after Traquair, Cardrona, Kailzie, Haystoun, and -Kingsmeadows, and on the north Glenormiston, the two -Horsburghs, and Kerfield—and, behind these, high hills -<span class="pb" id="Page_61">61</span> -of grass and heather, Lee Pen, Dunslair and the -Makeness Kips, over against the Glenrath Heights -and the Dun Rig, from which on a clear day can be seen, -it is said, the Calton Hill in Edinburgh and the Isle of -May. The little country-town of Peebles is in a level -space where Eddleston Water, side by side with rail -and highway, meets Tweed; and from time immemorial -it has been a resort of royalty, a place for pastime and -relaxation—“Peebles for pleesure!”—and, in a modest -way, for trade. It had a reputation for sanctity, also, in -witness whereof there are the remains of the two -mediæval churches—those of St. Andrew and of the -Haly Rude. The house of the Archdean of Glasgow -is represented by the Lodging, in the High Street, of the -Dukes of Queensberry, now become a public library, -whose name, the Chambers Institute, recalls the fact -that the founders of the publishing house of Chambers -were born in a humble cottage in one of the cross streets. -Peebles has outgrown the limits marked by the fragment -of the town wall, and has spread northwards to -the foot of the hills, where on Venlaw—part of its -lost patrimony—it has public walks and a “Hydro”; -while it has crossed, by the handsome stone bridge, -to the southern bank of Tweed; whence a branch -railway follows the course of the river to Broughton, -on the way to Clydesdale.</p> -<p>A mile out of the town, to the west, is Neidpath -<span class="pb" id="Page_62">62</span> -Castle, the most commandingly and romantically -situated, and, in spite of the yawning gaps made in its -walls by Cromwell’s cannon, the best-preserved—Traquair -excepted—of the strongholds of the olden time on -Tweed. The river is here constricted by the bare -cairn-strewn ridge of Caidmuir—once Peebles Common—on -the south, and by the Edston heights on the Neidpath -side, and has cut a deep ravine through which -has drained the great lake that once filled upper -Tweeddale. The water swirls around rock and boulder -below the castle base; and the screen of trees, whose -destruction by that “degenerate Douglas”, Old Q., -provoked Wordsworth’s indignant sonnet, has been -partially restored. Access to the lofty thick walled -double tower, still partly occupied, is by a gateway and -courtyard; and over this outer portal are the arms of the -early owners—the strawberries of the Frasers of Oliver -Castle, from whom are descended the Frasers of the -North; and the goat’s head of the Hays of Yester, who -here entertained James VI, defied the Commonwealth, -and were created Lords of Tweeddale. Afterwards the -castle and lands came into the possession of the -Douglases of Queensberry, and they now belong to the -Earl of Wemyss and March. From the window, now -built up, over the arch, as has been sung by Scott and by -Campbell, the dying “Maid of Neidpath” looked forth -to watch the return of her undiscerning lover. Still -discoverable is the casement in the Justice Room of -the tower, out of which wrong-doers were hung after -summary trial.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig12"> -<img src="images/p13.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="676" /> -<p class="caption">NEIDPATH CASTLE</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_63">63</div> -<p>As Pennecuik sang two centuries ago:</p> -<div class="verse"> -<p class="t0">“The noble Neidpath Peebles overlooks</p> -<p class="t0">With its fair bridge and Tweed’s meandering crooks”.</p> -</div> -<p>But it overlooks much else; and a short distance above -it there open up, to right and left, the subsidiary vales -of the Lyne and the Manor. The former comes from -the “Cauldstaneslap”, in the heart of the Pentlands, and -passing on its way, at the meeting with the Tarth, -Drochil Castle—built as a retreat by the Regent Morton, -who was shortened by a head with a guillotine of his -own contriving before he had time to complete his -work—enters Tweed below the remains of the great -Roman Camp of Lyne. The Manor Water draws its -springs from the neighbourhood of Yarrow. Once it -was defended by eight strong peels, only one of which, -Barns—where Mr. John Buchan has laid the scene of his -“John Burnet of Barns”—stands erect. Posso Craigs, -where the Stewart Kings bred their falcons, and the -sites of St. Gordian’s Kirk and Cross and of “Macbeth’s -Castle” can be pointed out. But Manor’s chief memorials -are the grave and the cottage of David Ritchie, -the prototype of the “Black Dwarf”, the “recluse of -Meiklestane Moor”. Scott, as a young visitor to -Manor with Adam Ferguson, received an impression -<span class="pb" id="Page_64">64</span> -which never left him when the deformed and eccentric -being, who built his own hut with its doorway three feet -high, took him into its arcana, and locking the door and -seizing his hand, asked him earnestly: “Hae ye the -pooer?”—the power of divination!</p> -<p>The “Thieves’ Road”, by which the Border reivers -made their way into Lothian, strikes athwart the hills -enclosing the valleys of Manor and Lyne, descending -to the Tweed from the slopes of the Scrape to the -woods of Dawick. Veitches were succeeded in this -sheltered place by Naesmiths, whose fortunes were built -up by an indefatigable seventeenth century lawyer known -as “the Deil o’ Dawick”. It boasts possession of the -oldest larches in Scotland, brought hither on the suggestion -of Linnæus, though the honour is disputed by -Kailzie lower down Tweed. Across the river is another -fine wooded domain—Stobo—whose ancient church preserves -a Norman doorway, a saddle-back tower, and a -“jougs”; while, from the hills behind, this level strath -seems to be menaced by the fragments of Tinnis Castle, -set, like a robber tower on the Rhine, on the summit of -an almost inaccessible rocky spur. It is believed to have -been the original hold of the Tweedies of Drummelzier, -a race whose fabled descent was from a Tweed water-nymph, -and whose conduct towards their neighbours, the -Veitches of Dawick and the Geddeses of Rachan, sadly -belied the motto on their tomb at Drummelzier Church—“Thole -<span class="pb" id="Page_65">65</span> -and Think”. Hard by that edifice at the meeting -of the Powsail and the Tweed, and not far from the -ruined castle of the Hays of Drummelzier, is another -grave of which tradition has much to say—that of -“Merlin the Wild”, who prophesied on the spot the -Union of the Kingdoms.</p> -<p>Beyond Drummelzier and Broughton, an estate and -parish which in the eighteenth century belonged to two -historical personages of dubious repute—“Secretary -Murray” of the ’45 and M‘Queen of Braxfield, Stevenson’s -“Lord Justice Clerk”—the Tweed is found to -have dwindled almost to the dimensions of a moorland -burn, enclosed among smooth brown “hills of sheep”. -Smaller streams pour down in headlong course on -either hand; and there are not wanting places of -historic and literary note by the river banks and in the -tributary valleys. Every burn and haugh has its story -of old feuds, in which Frasers and Tweedies, Hunters -and Murrays, Scotts and Hays, and other clans of -Upper Clydesdale have had a part; and “forts” and -“rings” and “chesters” are plentifully sprinkled on -the hill-tops. They are especially rife on the heights -looking down on the Holms water, which comes from -the grassy and heathery folds of Culter Fell and Cardon, -and, after joining the Broughton burn, falls into the -Tweed below Rachan. For in this neighbourhood, by -the “Pass of Corscrine”, ran for a time the frontiers of -<span class="pb" id="Page_66">66</span> -the Kingdom, as fixed between Edward I and Edward -Baliol. Like many other old families of the district, -the Geddeses of Rachan, “chiefs of the name”, passed -out of the Upper Tweed in poverty and litigation. The -like fate, or worse, befell the Murrays of Stanhope, -whose representative, after the laird who lost his head -in the ’45, was the “Judas” of the Rebellion, for whom -Scott’s father showed his contempt, by flinging out of -the window the cup from which his caller had partaken -of tea in George Square. The fact that they claimed -to have received their lands, “for a Bow and a Broad -Arrow, when the King comes to hunt in Yarrow”, from -Malcolm Canmore did not prevent the Hunters from -parting with the estate of Polmood, after one of the -longest lawsuits in the annals of even the Scots law.</p> -<p>Stanhope and Polmood have streams tumbling down -to Tweed from the heights of Dollar Law and Broad -Law, 2800 feet above sea-level; and on the opposite, or -right bank, above the fragment of Wrae Castle, which -once belonged to the Tweedies, is the site of “Lincumdoddie”, -where dwelt “Willie Wastle’s wife”, -whose face, according to Burns’s song, “wad fyle the -Logan Water”, which runs by it. Beyond the Kinkledoors -burn is the “Crook Inn”, beloved by the many -anglers who have sought sport and recreation in this -solitude among the hills, where, besides Tweed itself, -there are many wild side streams—Hearthstane, Menzion, -<span class="pb" id="Page_67">67</span> -Fruid, and Fingland; Glencraigie, Glenbreck, and -Glencor—frequented by brown and yellow trout. But, -chief of all, there is the Talla, which, from its springs in -lonely Gameshope, rushes down the rocks at Talla -Linnfoot, and rests in the two-mile-long reservoir of the -Edinburgh Water Company, before joining the Tweed -at Tweedsmuir Church, nearly opposite the scant -remains of Oliver Castle, where the Frasers first -planted themselves on Tweedside.</p> -<p>The Frasers had fled the scene long before the -Hunters and the Hays, the Geddeses and the Tweedies, -and other families have succeeded and followed them in -their flight. Few, and set far apart, are houses and -“bields” of any kind, on the lonely road that keeps -high up the hillside above the valley floor, until, at -“Tweed’s Well”, passing over into Annandale, it parts -company with the “Scott Country”.</p> -<h2 id="c1">Footnotes</h2> -<div class="fnblock"><div class="fndef"><a class="fn" id="fn_1" href="#fr_1">[1]</a>“Penmanscore” is the correct reading, though “Permanscore” is given in the <i>Minstrelsy</i>. -</div> -</div> -<div class="box"> -<h3 class="generic">BEAUTIFUL ENGLAND AND SCOTLAND</h3> -<p>This series of beautifully illustrated volumes has been -re-issued in handy size. It is an admirable record of what -is most worthy of attention in some of our fairest places. -Each book contains 12 reproductions of original water-colour -paintings by E. W. Haslehust, R.B.A., in addition to descriptive -text.</p> -<p class="center"><i><span class="ss">Attractively Produced</span></i> <span class="hst"><i><span class="ss">Coloured Jacket</span></i></span></p> -<table class="center" summary=""> -<tr><td class="l"> </td><td class="r"><i>Descriptive Text by</i></td></tr> -<tr><td class="l"><span class="ss">The Thames.</span> </td><td class="r">G. E. Mitton.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="l"><span class="ss">Bath and Wells.</span> </td><td class="r">Arthur L. Salmon.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="l"><span class="ss">The Peak District.</span> </td><td class="r">R. Murray Gilchrist.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="l"><span class="ss">In London’s By-Ways.</span> </td><td class="r">Walter Jerrold.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="l"><span class="ss">Winchester.</span> </td><td class="r">Sidney Heath.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="l"><span class="ss">The Shores of Fife.</span> </td><td class="r">John Geddie.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="l"><span class="ss">Heart of London.</span> </td><td class="r">Walter Jerrold.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="l"><span class="ss">Cornish Riviera.</span> </td><td class="r">Sidney Heath.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="l"><span class="ss">Loch Lomond.</span> </td><td class="r">George Eyre-Todd.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="l"><span class="ss">Dartmoor.</span> </td><td class="r">Arthur L. Salmon.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="l"><span class="ss">Edinburgh.</span> </td><td class="r">John Geddie.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="l"><span class="ss">Canterbury.</span> </td><td class="r">Canon Danks.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="l"><span class="ss">Shakespeare-Land.</span> </td><td class="r">Walter Jerrold.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="l"><span class="ss">The Scott Country.</span> </td><td class="r">John Geddie.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="l"><span class="ss">Oxford.</span> </td><td class="r">F. D. How.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="l"><span class="ss">Cambridge.</span> </td><td class="r">Noel Barwell.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="l"><span class="ss">York.</span> </td><td class="r">George Benson.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="l"><span class="ss">English Lakes.</span> </td><td class="r">A. G. Bradley.</td></tr> -</table> -</div> -<h2 title="">Transcriber’s Notes</h2> -<ul><li>Research into publication date and location determined that this book is in the public domain.</li> -<li>Corrected a few palpable typographical errors.</li></ul> - - - - - - - -<pre> - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Scott Country, by John Geddie - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE SCOTT COUNTRY *** - -***** This file should be named 52345-h.htm or 52345-h.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/5/2/3/4/52345/ - -Produced by Stephen Hutcheson, Dave Morgan and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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