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diff --git a/old/mng110.txt b/old/mng110.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 492a319..0000000 --- a/old/mng110.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4863 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of Travels in the Interior of Africa - Volume 1 -by Mungo Park -(#1 in our series by Mungo Park) - -Copyright laws are changing all over the world. Be sure to check the -copyright laws for your country before downloading or redistributing -this or any other Project Gutenberg eBook. - -This header should be the first thing seen when viewing this Project -Gutenberg file. Please do not remove it. Do not change or edit the -header without written permission. - -Please read the "legal small print," and other information about the -eBook and Project Gutenberg at the bottom of this file. Included is -important information about your specific rights and restrictions in -how the file may be used. You can also find out about how to make a -donation to Project Gutenberg, and how to get involved. - - -**Welcome To The World of Free Plain Vanilla Electronic Texts** - -**eBooks Readable By Both Humans and By Computers, Since 1971** - -*****These eBooks Were Prepared By Thousands of Volunteers!***** - - -Title: Travels in the Interior of Africa - Volume 1 - -Author: Mungo Park - -Release Date: March, 2004 [EBook #5266] -[Yes, we are more than one year ahead of schedule] -[This file was first posted on June 20, 2002] -[Most recently updated: June 20, 2002] - -Edition: 10 - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ASCII - -*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK, TRAVELS IN AFRICA - VOLUME 1 *** - - - - -Transcribed from the 1893 Cassell & Company edition by David Price, -email ccx074@coventry.ac.uk - - - - -TRAVELS IN THE INTERIOR OF AFRICA--VOLUME 1 - - - - -INTRODUCTION - - - -Mungo Park was born on the 10th of September, 1771, the son of a -farmer at Fowlshiels, near Selkirk. After studying medicine in -Edinburgh, he went out, at the age of twenty-one, assistant-surgeon -in a ship bound for the East Indies. When he came back the African -Society was in want of an explorer, to take the place of Major -Houghton, who had died. Mungo Park volunteered, was accepted, and -in his twenty-fourth year, on the 22nd of May, 1795, he sailed for -the coasts of Senegal, where he arrived in June. - -Thence he proceeded on the travels of which this book is the record. -He was absent from England for a little more than two years and a -half; returned a few days before Christmas, 1797. He was then -twenty-six years old. The African Association published the first -edition of his travels as "Travels in the Interior Districts of -Africa, 1795-7, by Mungo Park, with an Appendix containing -Geographical Illustrations of Africa, by Major Rennell." - -Park married, and settled at Peebles in medical practice, but was -persuaded by the Government to go out again. He sailed from -Portsmouth on the 30th of January, 1805, resolved to trace the Niger -to its source or perish in the attempt. He perished. The natives -attacked him while passing through a narrow strait of the river at -Boussa, and killed him, with all that remained of his party, except -one slave. The record of this fatal voyage, partly gathered from -his journals, and closed by evidences of the manner of his death, -was first published in 1815, as "The Journal of a Mission to the -Interior of Africa in 1805, by Mungo Park, together with other -Documents, Official and Private, relating to the same Mission. To -which is prefixed an Account of the Life of Mr. Park." - -H. M. - - - -CHAPTER I--JOURNEY FROM PORTSMOUTH TO THE GAMBIA - - - -Soon after my return from the East Indies in 1793, having learned -that the noblemen and gentlemen associated for the purpose of -prosecuting discoveries in the interior of Africa were desirous of -engaging a person to explore that continent, by the way of the -Gambia river, I took occasion, through means of the President of the -Royal Society, to whom I had the honour to be known, of offering -myself for that service. I had been informed that a gentleman of -the name of Houghton, a captain in the army, and formerly fort-major -at Goree, had already sailed to the Gambia, under the direction of -the Association, and that there was reason to apprehend he had -fallen a sacrifice to the climate, or perished in some contest with -the natives. But this intelligence, instead of deterring me from my -purpose, animated me to persist in the offer of my services with the -greater solicitude. I had a passionate desire to examine into the -productions of a country so little known, and to become -experimentally acquainted with the modes of life and character of -the natives. I knew that I was able to bear fatigue, and I relied -on my youth and the strength of my constitution to preserve me from -the effects of the climate. The salary which the committee allowed -was sufficiently large, and I made no stipulation for future reward. -If I should perish in my journey, I was willing that my hopes and -expectations should perish with me; and if I should succeed in -rendering the geography of Africa more familiar to my countrymen, -and in opening to their ambition and industry new sources of wealth -and new channels of commerce, I knew that I was in the hands of men -of honour, who would not fail to bestow that remuneration which my -successful services should appear to them to merit. The committee -of the Association having made such inquiries as they thought -necessary, declared themselves satisfied with the qualifications -that I possessed, and accepted me for the service; and, with that -liberality which on all occasions distinguishes their conduct, gave -me every encouragement which it was in their power to grant, or -which I could with propriety ask. - -It was at first proposed that I should accompany Mr. James Willis, -who was then recently appointed consul at Senegambia, and whose -countenance in that capacity, it was thought, might have served and -protected me; but Government afterwards rescinded his appointment, -and I lost that advantage. The kindness of the committee, however, -supplied all that was necessary. Being favoured by the secretary of -the Association, the late Henry Beaufoy, Esq., with a recommendation -to Dr. John Laidley (a gentleman who had resided many years at an -English factory on the banks of the Gambia), and furnished with a -letter of credit on him for 200 pounds, I took my passage in the -brig Endeavour--a small vessel trading to the Gambia for beeswax and -ivory, commanded by Captain Richard Wyatt--and I became impatient -for my departure. - -My instructions were very plain and concise. I was directed, on my -arrival in Africa, "to pass on to the river Niger, either by way of -Bambouk, or by such other route as should be found most convenient. -That I should ascertain the course, and, if possible, the rise and -termination of that river. That I should use my utmost exertions to -visit the principal towns or cities in its neighbourhood, -particularly Timbuctoo and Houssa; and that I should be afterwards -at liberty to return to Europe, either by the way of the Gambia, or -by such other route as, under all the then existing circumstances of -my situation and prospects, should appear to me to be most -advisable." - -We sailed from Portsmouth on the 22nd day of May, 1795. On the 4th -of June we saw the mountains over Mogadore, on the coast of Africa; -and on the 21st of the same month, after a pleasant voyage of thirty -days, we anchored at Jillifrey, a town on the northern bank of the -river Gambia, opposite to James's Island, where the English had -formerly a small fort. - -The kingdom of Barra, in which the town of Jillifrey is situated, -produces great plenty of the necessaries of life; but the chief -trade of the inhabitants is in salt, which commodity they carry up -the river in canoes as high as Barraconda, and bring down in return -Indian corn, cotton cloths, elephants' teeth, small quantities of -gold dust, &c. The number of canoes and people constantly employed -in this trade makes the king of Barra more formidable to Europeans -than any other chieftain on the river; and this circumstance -probably encouraged him to establish those exorbitant duties which -traders of all nations are obliged to pay at entry, amounting to -nearly 20 pounds on every vessel, great and small. These duties or -customs are generally collected in person by the alkaid, or governor -of Jillifrey, and he is attended on these occasions by a numerous -train of dependants, among whom are found many who, by their -frequent intercourse with the English, have acquired a smattering of -our language: but they are commonly very noisy and very -troublesome, begging for everything they fancy with such earnestness -and importunity, that traders, in order to get quit of them, are -frequently obliged to grant their requests. - -On the 23rd we departed from Jillifrey, and proceeded to Vintain, a -town situated about two miles up a creek on the southern side of the -river. This place is much resorted to by Europeans on account of -the great quantities of beeswax which are brought hither for sale; -the wax is collected in the woods by the Feloops, a wild and -unsociable race of people. Their country, which is of considerable -extent, abounds in rice; and the natives supply the traders, both on -the Gambia and Cassamansa rivers, with that article, and also with -goats and poultry, on very reasonable terms. The honey which they -collect is chiefly used by themselves in making a strong -intoxicating liquor, much the same as the mead which is produced -from honey in Great Britain. - -In their traffic with Europeans, the Feloops generally employ a -factor or agent of the Mandingo nation, who speaks a little English, -and is acquainted with the trade of the river. This broker makes -the bargain; and, with the connivance of the European, receives a -certain part only of the payment, which he gives to his employer as -the whole; the remainder (which is very truly called the cheating -money) he receives when the Feloop is gone, and appropriates to -himself as a reward for his trouble. - -The language of the Feloops is appropriate and peculiar; and as -their trade is chiefly conducted, as hath been observed, by -Mandingoes, the Europeans have no inducement to learn it. - -On the 26th we left Vintain, and continued our course up the river, -anchoring whenever the tide failed us, and frequently towing the -vessel with the boat. The river is deep and muddy; the banks are -covered with impenetrable thickets of mangrove; and the whole of the -adjacent country appears to be flat and swampy. - -The Gambia abounds with fish, some species of which are excellent -food; but none of them that I recollect are known in Europe. At the -entrance from the sea sharks are found in great abundance, and, -higher up, alligators and the hippopotamus (or river-horse) are very -numerous. - -In six days after leaving Vintain we reached Jonkakonda, a place of -considerable trade, where our vessel was to take in part of her -lading. The next morning the several European traders came from -their different factories to receive their letters, and learn the -nature and amount of her cargo; and the captain despatched a -messenger to Dr. Laidley to inform him of my arrival. He came to -Jonkakonda the morning following, when I delivered him Mr. Beaufoy's -letter, and he gave me a kind invitation to spend my time at his -house until an opportunity should offer of prosecuting my journey. -This invitation was too acceptable to be refused, and being -furnished by the Doctor with a horse and guide, I set out from -Jonkakonda at daybreak on the 5th of July, and at eleven o'clock -arrived at Pisania, where I was accommodated with a room and other -conveniences in the Doctor's house. - -Pisania is a small village in the king of Yany's dominions, -established by British subjects as a factory for trade, and -inhabited solely by them and their black servants. It is situated -on the banks of the Gambia, sixteen miles above Jonkakonda. The -white residents, at the time of may arrival there, consisted only of -Dr. Laidley, and two gentlemen who were brothers, of the name of -Ainsley; but their domestics were numerous. They enjoyed perfect -security under the king's protection, and being highly esteemed and -respected by the natives at large, wanted no accommodation or -comfort which the country could supply, and the greatest part of the -trade in slaves, ivory, and gold was in their hands. - -Being now settled for some time at my ease, my first object was to -learn the Mandingo tongue, being the language in almost general use -throughout this part of Africa, and without which I was fully -convinced that I never could acquire an extensive knowledge of the -country or its inhabitants. In this pursuit I was greatly assisted -by Dr. Laidley. - -In researches of this kind, and in observing the manners and customs -of the natives, in a country so little known to the nations of -Europe, and furnished with so many striking and uncommon objects of -nature, my time passed not unpleasantly, and I began to flatter -myself that I had escaped the fever, or seasoning, to which -Europeans, on their first arrival in hot climates, are generally -subject. But on the 31st of July I imprudently exposed myself to -the night-dew in observing an eclipse of the moon, with a view to -determine the longitude of the place; the next day I found myself -attacked with a smart fever and delirium, and such an illness -followed as confined me to the house during the greatest part of -August. My recovery was very slow, but I embraced every short -interval of convalescence to walk out, and make myself acquainted -with the productions of the country. - -In one of those excursions, having rambled farther than usual, on a -hot day, I brought on a return of my fever, and on the 10th of -September I was again confined to my bed. The fever, however, was -not so violent as before; and in the course of three weeks I was -able, when the weather would permit, to renew my botanical -excursions; and when it rained, I amused myself with drawing plants, -&c., in my chamber. The care and attention of Dr. Laidley -contributed greatly to alleviate my sufferings; his company and -conversation beguiled the tedious hours during that gloomy season, -when the rain falls in torrents; when suffocating heats oppress by -day, and when the night is spent by the terrified travellers in -listening to the croaking of frogs (of which the numbers are beyond -imagination), the shrill cry of the jackal, and the deep howling of -the hyaena, a dismal concert, interrupted only by the roar of such -tremendous thunder as no person can form a conception of but those -who have heard it. - -The country itself being an immense level, and very generally -covered with wood, presents a tiresome and gloomy uniformity to the -eye; but although Nature has denied to the inhabitants the beauties -of romantic landscapes, she has bestowed on them, with a liberal -hand, the more important blessings of fertility and abundance. A -little attention to cultivation procures a sufficiency of corn, the -fields afford a rich pasturage for cattle, and the natives are -plentifully supplied with excellent fish, both from the Gambia river -and the Walli creek. - -The grains which are chiefly cultivated are--Indian corn (zea mays); -two kinds of holcus spicatus, called by the natives soono and sanio; -holcus niger, and holcus bicolor, the former of which they have -named bassi woolima, and the latter bassiqui. These, together with -rice, are raised in considerable quantities; besides which, the -inhabitants in the vicinity of the towns and villages have gardens -which produce onions, calavances, yams, cassavi, ground nuts, -pompions, gourds, water-melons, and some other esculent plants. - -I observed likewise, near the towns, small patches of cotton and -indigo. The former of these articles supplies them with clothing, -and with the latter they dye their cloth of an excellent blue -colour, in a manner that will hereafter be described. - -In preparing their corn for food, the natives use a large wooden -mortar called a paloon, in which they bruise the seed until it parts -with the outer covering, or husk, which is then separated from the -clean corn by exposing it to the wind, nearly in the same manner as -wheat is cleared from the chaff in England. The corn thus freed -from the husk is returned to the mortar and beaten into meal, which -is dressed variously in different countries; but the most common -preparation of it among the nations of the Gambia is a sort of -pudding which they call kouskous. It is made by first moistening -the flour with water, and then stirring and shaking it about in a -large calabash, or gourd, till it adheres together in small granules -resembling sago. It is then put into an earthen pot, whose bottom -is perforated with a number of small holes; and this pot being -placed upon another, the two vessels are luted together either with -a paste of meal and water, or with cows' dung, and placed upon the -fire. In the lower vessel is commonly some animal food and water, -the steam or vapour of which ascends through the perforations in the -bottom of the upper vessel, and softens and the kouskous, which is -very much esteemed throughout all the countries that I visited. I -am informed that the same manner of preparing flour is very -generally used on the Barbary coast, and that the dish so prepared -is there called by the same name. It is therefore probable that the -negroes borrowed the practice from the Moors. - -Their domestic animals are nearly the same as in Europe. Swine are -found in the woods, but their flesh is not esteemed. Probably the -marked abhorrence in which this animal is held by the votaries of -Mohammed has spread itself among the pagans. Poultry of all kinds, -the turkey excepted, is everywhere to be had. The guinea-fowl and -red partridge abound in the fields, and the woods furnish a small -species of antelope, of which the venison is highly and deservedly -prized. - -Of the other wild animals in the Mandingo countries, the most common -are the hyaena, the panther, and the elephant. Considering the use -that is made of the latter in the East Indies, it may be thought -extraordinary that the natives of Africa have not, in any part of -this immense continent, acquired the skill of taming this powerful -and docile creature, and applying his strength and faculties to the -service of man. When I told some of the natives that this was -actually done in the countries of the East, my auditors laughed me -to scorn, and exclaimed, "Tobaubo fonnio!" ("A white man's lie!") -The negroes frequently find means to destroy the elephant by -firearms; they hunt it principally for the sake of the teeth, which -they transfer in barter to those who sell them again to the -Europeans. The flesh they eat, and consider it as a great delicacy. - -On the 6th of October the waters of the Gambia were at the greatest -height, being fifteen feet above the high-water mark of the tide, -after which they began to subside, at first slowly, but afterwards -very rapidly, sometimes sinking more than a foot in twenty-four -hours. By the beginning of November the river had sunk to its -former level, and the tide ebbed and flowed as usual. When the -river had subsided, and the atmosphere grew dry, I recovered apace, -and began to think of my departure, for this is reckoned the most -proper season for travelling. The natives had completed their -harvest, and provisions were everywhere cheap and plentiful. - -Dr. Laidley was at this time employed in a trading voyage at -Jonkakonda. I wrote to him to desire that he would use his interest -with the slatees, or slave-merchants, to procure me the company and -protection of the first coffle (or caravan) that might leave Gambia -for the interior country; and, in the meantime, I requested him to -purchase for me a horse and two asses. A few days afterwards the -Doctor returned to Pisania, and informed me that a coffle would -certainly go for the interior in the course of the dry season; but -that, as many of the merchants belonging to it had not yet completed -their assortment of goods, he could not say at what time they would -set out. - -As the characters and dispositions of the slatees, and people that -composed the caravan, were entirely unknown to me--and as they -seemed rather averse to my purpose, and unwilling to enter into any -positive engagements on my account--and the time of their departure -being withal very uncertain, I resolved, on further deliberation, to -avail myself of the dry season, and proceed without them. - -Dr. Laidley approved my determination, and promised me every -assistance in his power to enable me to prosecute my journey with -comfort and safety. - -This resolution having been formed, I made preparations accordingly. - -And now, being about to take leave of my hospitable friend (whose -kindness and solicitude continued to the moment of my departure), -and to quit for many months the countries bordering on the Gambia, -it seems proper, before I proceed with my narrative, that I should -in this place give some account of the several negro nations which -inhabit the banks of this celebrated river, and the commercial -intercourse that subsists between them, and such of the nations of -Europe as find their advantage in trading to this part of Africa. -The observations which have occurred to me on both these subjects -will be found in the following chapter. - - - -CHAPTER II--LANGUAGE AND RELIGION OF THE NATIVES - - - -The natives of the countries bordering on the Gambia, though -distributed into a great many distinct governments, may, I think, be -divided into four great classes--the Feloops, the Jaloffs, the -Foulahs, and the Mandingoes. Among all these nations, the religion -of Mohammed has made, and continues to make, considerable progress; -but in most of them the body of the people, both free and enslaved, -persevere in maintaining the blind but harmless superstitions of -their ancestors, and are called by the Mohammedans kafirs, or -infidels. - -Of the Feloops, I have little to add to what has been observed -concerning them in the former chapter. They are of a gloomy -disposition, and are supposed never to forgive an injury. They are -even said to transmit their quarrels as deadly feuds to their -posterity, insomuch that a son considers it as incumbent on him, -from a just sense of filial obligation, to become the avenger of his -deceased father's wrongs. If a man loses his life in one of these -sudden quarrels which perpetually occur at their feasts, when the -whole party is intoxicated with mead, his son, or the eldest of his -sons (if he has more than one), endeavours to procure his father's -sandals, which he wears ONCE A YEAR, on the anniversary of his -father's death, until a fit opportunity offers of revenging his -fate, when the object of his resentment seldom escapes his pursuit. -This fierce and unrelenting disposition is, however, counterbalanced -by many good qualities: they display the utmost gratitude and -affection towards their benefactors, and the fidelity with which -they preserve whatever is entrusted to them is remarkable. During -the present war, they have more than once taken up arms to defend -our merchant vessels from French privateers; and English property of -considerable value has frequently been left at Vintain for a long -time entirely under the care of the Feloops, who have uniformly -manifested on such occasions the strictest honesty and punctuality. -How greatly is it to be wished that the minds of a people so -determined and faithful could be softened and civilised by the mild -and benevolent spirit of Christianity! - -The Jaloffs (or Yaloffs) are an active, powerful, and warlike race, -inhabiting great part of that tract which lies between the river -Senegal and the Mandingo states on the Gambia; yet they differ from -the Mandingoes not only in language, but likewise in complexion and -features. The noses of the Jaloffs are not so much depressed, nor -the lips so protuberant, as among the generality of Africans; and -although their skin is of the deepest black, they are considered by -the white traders as the most sightly negroes on this part of the -continent. - -Their language is said to be copious and significant, and is often -learnt by Europeans trading to Senegal. - -The Foulahs (or Pholeys), such of them at least as reside near the -Gambia, are chiefly of a tawny complexion, with soft silky hair, and -pleasing features. They are much attached to a pastoral life, and -have introduced themselves into all the kingdoms on the windward -coast as herdsmen and husbandmen, paying a tribute to the sovereign -of the country for the lands which they hold. Not having many -opportunities, however, during my residence at Pisania, of improving -my acquaintance with these people, I defer entering at large into -their character until a fitter occasion occurs, which will present -itself when I come to Bondou. - -The Mandingoes, of whom it remains to speak, constitute, in truth, -the bulk of the inhabitants in all those districts of Africa which I -visited; and their language, with a few exceptions, is universally -understood and very generally spoken in that part of the continent. - -They are called Mandingoes, I conceive, as having originally -migrated from the interior state of Manding, of which some account -will hereafter be given. - -In every considerable town there is a chief magistrate, called the -alkaid, whose office is hereditary, and whose business it is to -preserve order, to levy duties on travellers, and to preside at all -conferences in the exercise of local jurisdiction and the -administration of justice. These courts are composed of the elders -of the town (of free condition), and are termed palavers; and their -proceedings are conducted in the open air with sufficient solemnity. -Both sides of a question are freely canvassed, witnesses are -publicly examined, and the decisions which follow generally meet -with the approbation of the surrounding audience. - -As the negroes have no written language of their own, the general -rule of decision is an appeal to ANCIENT CUSTOM; but since the -system of Mohammed has made so great progress among them, the -converts to that faith have gradually introduced, with the religious -tenets, many of the civil institutions of the prophet; and where the -Koran is not found sufficiently explicit, recourse is had to a -commentary called Al Sharra, containing, as I was told, a complete -exposition or digest of the Mohammedan laws, both civil and -criminal, properly arranged and illustrated. - -This frequency of appeal to written laws, with which the pagan -natives are necessarily unacquainted, has given rise in their -palavers to (what I little expected to find in Africa) professional -advocates, or expounders of the law, who are allowed to appear and -to plead for plaintiff or defendant, much in the same manner as -counsel in the law-courts of Great Britain. They are Mohammedan -negroes, who have made, or affect to have made, the laws of the -prophet their peculiar study; and if I may judge from their -harangues, which I frequently attended, I believe, that in the -forensic qualifications of procrastination and cavil, and the arts -of confounding and perplexing a cause, they are not always surpassed -by the ablest pleaders in Europe. While I was at Pisania, a cause -was heard which furnished the Mohammedan lawyers with an admirable -opportunity of displaying their professional dexterity. The case -was this:- An ass belonging to a Serawoolli negro (a native of an -interior country near the river Senegal) had broke into a field of -corn belonging to one of the Mandingo inhabitants, and destroyed -great part of it. The Mandingo having caught the animal in his -field, immediately drew his knife and cut his throat. The -Serawoolli thereupon called a palaver (or in European terms, brought -an action) to recover damages for the loss of his beast, on which he -set a high value. The defendant confessed he had killed the ass, -but pleaded a SET-OFF, insisting that the loss he had sustained by -the ravage in his corn was equal to the sum demanded for the animal. -To ascertain this fact was the point at issue, and the learned -advocates contrived to puzzle the cause in such a manner that, after -a hearing of three days, the court broke up without coming to any -determination upon it; and a second palaver was, I suppose, thought -necessary. - -The Mandingoes, generally speaking, are of a mild, sociable, and -obliging disposition. The men are commonly above the middle size, -well-shaped, strong, and capable of enduring great labour. The -women are good-natured, sprightly, and agreeable. The dress of both -sexes is composed of cotton cloth of their own manufacture: that of -the men is a loose frock, not unlike a surplice, with drawers which -reach half-way down the leg; and they wear sandals on their feet, -and white cotton caps on their heads. The women's dress consists of -two pieces of cloth, each of which is about six feet long and three -broad. One of these they wrap round their waist, which, hanging -down to the ankles, answers the purpose of a petticoat; the other is -thrown negligently over the bosom and shoulders. - -This account of their clothing is indeed nearly applicable to the -natives of all the different countries in this part of Africa; a -peculiar national mode is observable only in the head-dresses of the -women. - -Thus, in the countries of the Gambia, the females wear a sort of -bandage, which they call jalla. It is a narrow strip of cotton -cloth wrapped many times round, immediately over the forehead. In -Bondou, the head is encircled with strings of white beads, and a -small plate of gold is worn in the middle of the forehead. In -Kasson the ladies decorate their heads in a very tasteful and -elegant manner with white seashells. In Kaarta and Ludamar, the -women raise their hair to a great height by the addition of a pad -(as the ladies did formerly in Great Britain), which they decorate -with a species of coral brought from the Red Sea by pilgrims -returning from Mecca, and sold at a great price. - -In the construction of their dwelling-houses the Mandingoes also -conform to the general practice of the African nations in this part -of the continent, contenting themselves with small and incommodious -hovels. A circular mud wall, about four feet high, upon which is -placed a conical roof, composed of the bamboo cane, and thatched -with grass, forms alike the palace of the king and the hovel of the -slave. Their household furniture is equally simple. A hurdle of -canes placed upon upright sticks, about two feet from the ground, -upon which is spread a mat or bullock's hide, answers the purpose of -a bed; a water jar, some earthen pots for dressing their food; a few -wooden bowls and calabashes, and one or two low stools, compose the -rest. - -As every man of free condition has a plurality of wives, it is found -necessary (to prevent, I suppose, matrimonial disputes) that each of -the ladies should be accommodated with a hut to herself; and all the -huts belonging to the same family are surrounded by a fence -constructed of bamboo canes, split and formed into a sort of wicker- -work. The whole enclosure is called a sirk, or surk. A number of -these enclosures, with narrow passages between them, form what is -called a town; but the huts are generally placed without any -regularity, according to the caprice of the owner. The only rule -that seems to be attended to is placing the door towards the south- -west, in order to admit the sea-breeze. - -In each town is a large stage called the bentang, which answers the -purpose of a public hall or town house. It is composed of -interwoven canes, and is generally sheltered from the sun by being -erected in the shade of some large tree. It is here that all public -affairs are transacted and trials conducted; and here the lazy and -indolent meet to smoke their pipes, and hear the news of the day. -In most of the towns the Mohammedans have also a missura, or mosque, -in which they assemble and offer up their daily prayers, according -to the rules of the Koran. - -In the account which I have thus given of the natives, the reader -must bear in mind that my observations apply chiefly to persons of -FREE CONDITION, who constitute, I suppose, not more than one-fourth -part of the inhabitants at large. The other three-fourths are in a -state of hopeless and hereditary slavery, and are employed in -cultivating the land, in the care of cattle, and in servile offices -of all kinds, much in the same manner as the slaves in the West -Indies. I was told, however, that the Mandingo master can neither -deprive his slave of life, nor sell him to a stranger, without first -calling a palaver on his conduct, or in other words, bringing him to -a public trial. But this degree of protection is extended only to -the native or domestic slave. Captives taken in war, and those -unfortunate victims who are condemned to slavery for crimes or -insolvency--and, in short, all those unhappy people who are brought -down from the interior countries for sale--have no security -whatever, but may be treated and disposed of in all respects as the -owner thinks proper. It sometimes happens, indeed, when no ships -are on the coast, that a humane and considerate master incorporates -his purchased slaves among his domestics; and their offspring at -least, if not the parents, become entitled to all the privileges of -the native class. - -The earliest European establishment on this celebrated river was a -factory of the Portuguese, and to this must be ascribed the -introduction of the numerous words of that language which are still -in use among the negroes. The Dutch, French, and English afterwards -successively possessed themselves of settlements on the coast; but -the trade of the Gambia became, and continued for many years, a sort -of monopoly in the hands of the English. In the travels of Francis -Moore is preserved an account of the Royal African Company's -establishments in this river in the year 1730; at which the James's -factory alone consisted of a governor, deputy-governor, and two -other principal officers; eight factors, thirteen writers, twenty -inferior attendants and tradesmen; a company of soldiers, and -thirty-two negro servants; besides sloops, shallops, and boats, with -their crews; and there were no less than eight subordinate factories -in other parts of the river. - -The trade with Europe, by being afterwards laid open, was almost -annihilated. The share which the subjects of England at this time -hold in it supports not more than two or three annual ships; and I -am informed that the gross value of British exports is under 20,000 -pounds. The French and Danes still maintain a small share, and the -Americans have lately sent a few vessels to the Gambia by way of -experiment. - -The commodities exported to the Gambia from Europe consist chiefly -of firearms and ammunition, iron-ware, spirituous liquors, tobacco, -cotton caps, a small quantity of broadcloth, and a few articles of -the manufacture of Manchester; a small assortment of India goods, -with some glass beads, amber, and other trifles, for which are taken -in exchange slaves, gold dust, ivory, beeswax, and hides. Slaves -are the chief article, but the whole number which at this time are -annually exported from the Gambia by all nations is supposed to be -under one thousand. - -Most of these unfortunate victims are brought to the coast in -periodical caravans; many of them from very remote inland countries, -for the language which they speak is not understood by the -inhabitants of the maritime districts. In a subsequent part of my -work I shall give the best information I have been able to collect -concerning the manner in which they are obtained. On their arrival -at the coast, if no immediate opportunity offers of selling them to -advantage, they are distributed among the neighbouring villages, -until a slave ship arrives, or until they can be sold to black -traders, who sometimes purchase on speculation. In the meanwhile, -the poor wretches are kept constantly fettered, two and two of them -being chained together, and employed in the labours of the field, -and, I am sorry to add, are very scantily fed, as well as harshly -treated. The price of a slave varies according to the number of -purchasers from Europe, and the arrival of caravans from the -interior; but in general I reckon that a young and healthy male, -from sixteen to twenty-five years of age, may be estimated on the -spot from 18 pounds to 20 pounds sterling. - -The negro slave-merchants, as I have observed in the former chapter, -are called slatees, who, besides slaves, and the merchandise which -they bring for sale to the whites, supply the inhabitants of the -maritime districts with native iron, sweet-smelling gums and -frankincense, and a commodity called shea-toulou, which, literally -translated, signifies tree-butter. - -In payment of these articles, the maritime states supply the -interior countries with salt, a scarce and valuable commodity, as I -frequently and painfully experienced in the course of my journey. -Considerable quantities of this article, however, are also supplied -to the inland natives by the Moors, who obtain it from the salt pits -in the Great Desert, and receive in return corn, cotton cloth, and -slaves. - -In their early intercourse with Europeans the article that attracted -most notice was iron. Its utility, in forming the instruments of -war and husbandry, make it preferable to all others, and iron soon -became the measure by which the value of all other commodities was -ascertained. Thus, a certain quantity of goods, of whatever -denomination, appearing to be equal in value to a bar of iron, -constituted, in the traders' phraseology, a bar of that particular -merchandise. Twenty leaves of tobacco, for instance, were -considered as a bar of tobacco; and a gallon of spirits (or rather -half spirits and half water) as a bar of rum, a bar of one commodity -being reckoned equal in value to a bar of another commodity. - -As, however, it must unavoidably happen that, according to the -plenty or scarcity of goods at market in proportion to the demand, -the relative value would be subject to continual fluctuation, -greater precision has been found necessary; and at this time the -current value of a single bar of any kind is fixed by the whites at -two shillings sterling. Thus, a slave whose price is 15 pounds, is -said to be worth 150 bars. - -In transactions of this nature it is obvious that the white trader -has infinitely the advantage over the African, whom, therefore, it -is difficult to satisfy, for conscious of his own ignorance, he -naturally becomes exceedingly suspicious and wavering; and, indeed, -so very unsettled and jealous are the negroes in their dealings with -the whites, that a bargain is never considered by the European as -concluded until the purchase money is paid and the party has taken -leave. - -Having now brought together such general observations on the country -and its inhabitants as occurred to me during my residence in the -vicinity of the Gambia, I shall detain the reader no longer with -introductory matter, but proceed, in the next chapter, to a regular -detail of the incidents which happened, and the reflections which -arose in my mind, in the course of my painful and perilous journey, -from its commencement until my return to the Gambia. - - - -CHAPTER III--THE KINGDOM OF WOOLLI--JOURNEY TO BONDOU - - - -On the 2nd of December, 1795, I took my departure from the -hospitable mansion of Dr. Laidley. I was fortunately provided with -a negro servant who spoke both the English and Mandingo tongues. -His name was Johnson. He was a native of this part of Africa, and -having in his youth been conveyed to Jamaica as a slave, he had been -made free, and taken to England by his master, where he had resided -many years, and at length found his way back to his native country. -As he was known to Dr. Laidley, the Doctor recommended him to me, -and I hired him as my interpreter, at the rate of ten bars monthly -to be paid to himself, and five bars a month to be paid to his wife -during his absence. Dr. Laidley furthermore provided me with a -negro boy of his own, named Demba, a sprightly youth, who, besides -Mandingo, spoke the language of the Serawoollies, an inland people -(of whom mention will hereafter be made) residing on the banks of -the Senegal; and to induce him to behave well, the Doctor promised -him his freedom on his return, in case I should report favourably of -his fidelity and services. I was furnished with a horse for myself -(a small but very hardy and spirited beast, which cost me to the -value of 7 pounds 10s), and two asses for my interpreter and -servant. My baggage was light, consisting chiefly of provisions for -two days; a small assortment of beads, amber, and tobacco, for the -purchase of a fresh supply as I proceeded; a few changes of linen, -and other necessary apparel; an umbrella, a pocket sextant, a -magnetic compass, and a thermometer; together with two fowling- -pieces, two pair of pistols, and some other small articles. - -A free man (a bashreen, or Mohammedan) named Madiboo, who was -travelling to the kingdom of Bambara, and two slatees, or slave -merchants, of the Serawoolli nation, and of the same sect, who were -going to Bondou, offered their services, as far as they intended -respectively to proceed, as did likewise a negro named Tami (also a -Mohammedan), a native of Kasson, who had been employed some years by -Dr. Laidley as a blacksmith, and was returning to his native country -with the savings of his labours. All these men travelled on foot, -driving their asses before them. - -Thus I had no less than six attendants, all of whom had been taught -to regard me with great respect, and to consider that their safe -return hereafter to the countries on the Gambia would depend on my -preservation. - -Dr. Laidley himself, and Messrs. Ainsley, with a number of their -domestics, kindly determined to accompany me the first two days; and -I believe they secretly thought they should never see me afterwards. - -We reached Jindey the same day, having crossed the Walli creek, a -branch of the Gambia, and rested at the house of a black woman, who -had formerly been the paramour of a white trader named Hewett, and -who, in consequence thereof, was called, by way of distinction, -seniora. In the evening we walked out to see an adjoining village, -belonging to a slatee named Jemaffoo Momadoo, the richest of all the -Gambia traders. We found him at home, and he thought so highly of -the honour done him by this visit, that he presented us with a fine -bullock, which was immediately killed, and part of it dressed for -our evening's repast. - -The negroes do not go to supper till late, and, in order to amuse -ourselves while our beef was preparing, a Mandingo was desired to -relate some diverting stories, in listening to which, and smoking -tobacco, we spent three hours. These stories bear some resemblance -to those in the Arabian Nights' Entertainments, but, in general, are -of a more ludicrous cast. - -About one o'clock in the afternoon of the 3rd of December, I took my -leave of Dr. Laidley and Messrs. Ainsley, and rode slowly into the -woods. I had now before me a boundless forest, and a country, the -inhabitants of which were strangers to civilised life, and to most -of whom a white man was the object of curiosity or plunder. I -reflected that I had parted from the last European I might probably -behold, and perhaps quitted for ever the comforts of Christian -society. Thoughts like these would necessarily cast a gloom over my -mind; and I rode musing along for about three miles, when I was -awakened from my reverie by a body of people, who came running up, -and stopped the asses, giving me to understand that I must go with -them to Peckaba, to present myself to the king of Walli, or pay -customs to them. I endeavoured to make them comprehend that the -object of my journey not being traffic, I ought not to be subjected -to a tax like the slatees, and other merchants, who travel for gain; -but I reasoned to no purpose. They said it was usual for travellers -of all descriptions to make a present to the king of Walli, and -without doing so I could not be permitted to proceed. As they were -more numerous than my attendants, and withal very noisy, I thought -it prudent to comply with their demand; and having presented them -with four bars of tobacco, for the king's use, I was permitted to -continue my journey, and at sunset reached a village near -Kootacunda, where we rested for the night. - -In the morning of December 4th I passed Kootacunda, the last town of -Walli, and stopped about an hour at a small adjoining village to pay -customs to an officer of the king of Woolli; we rested the ensuing -night at a village called Tabajang; and at noon the next day -(December 5th) we reached Medina, the capital of the king of -Woolli's dominions. - -The kingdom of Woolli is bounded by Walli on the west, by the Gambia -on the south, by the small river Walli on the north-west, by Bondou -on the north-east, and on the east by the Simbani wilderness. - -The inhabitants are Mandingoes, and, like most of the Mandingo -nations, are divided into two great sects--the Mohammedans, who are -called bushreens, and the pagans, who are called indiscriminately -kafirs (unbelievers) and sonakies (i.e., men who drink strong -liquors). The pagan natives are by far the most numerous, and the -government of the country is in their hands; for though the most -respectable among the bushreens are frequently consulted in affairs -of importance, yet they are never permitted to take any share in the -executive government, which rests solely in the hands of the mansa, -or sovereign, and great officers of the state. Of these, the first -in point of rank is the presumptive heir of the crown, who is called -the farbanna. Next to him are the alkaids, or provincial governors, -who are more frequently called keamos. Then follow the two grand -divisions of free-men and slaves; of the former, the slatees, so -frequently mentioned in the preceding pages, are considered as the -principal; but, in all classes, great respect is paid to the -authority of aged men. - -On the death of the reigning monarch, his eldest son (if he has -attained the age of manhood) succeeds to the regal authority. If -there is no son, or if the son is under the age of discretion, a -meeting of the great men is held, and the late monarch's nearest -relation (commonly his brother) is called to the government, not as -regent, or guardian to the infant son, but in full right, and to the -exclusion of the minor. The charges of the government are defrayed -by occasional tributes from the people, and by duties on goods -transported across the country. Travellers, on going from the -Gambia towards the interior, pay customs in European merchandise. -On returning, they pay in iron and shea-toulou. These taxes are -paid at every town. - -Medina, the capital of the kingdom, at which I was now arrived, is a -place of considerable extent, and may contain from eight hundred to -one thousand houses. It is fortified in the common African manner, -by a surrounding high wall built of clay, and an outward fence of -pointed stakes and prickly bushes; but the walls are neglected, and -the outward fence has suffered considerably from the active hands of -busy housewives, who pluck up the stakes for firewood. I obtained a -lodging at one of the king's near relations, who apprised me that at -my introduction to the king I must not presume to SHAKE HANDS WITH -HIM. "It was not usual," he said, "to allow this liberty to -strangers." Thus instructed, I went in the afternoon to pay my -respects to the sovereign, and ask permission to pass through his -territories to Bondou. The king's name was Jatta. He was the same -venerable old man of whom so favourable an account was transmitted -by Major Houghton. I found him seated upon a mat before the door of -his hut; a number of men and women were arranged on each side, who -were singing and clapping their hands. I saluted him respectfully, -and informed him of the purport of my visit. The king graciously -replied, that he not only gave me leave to pass through his country, -but would offer up his prayers for my safety. On this, one of my -attendants, seemingly in return for the king's condescension, began -to sing, or rather to roar an Arabic song, at every pause of which -the king himself, and all the people present, struck their hands -against their foreheads, and exclaimed, with devout and affecting -solemnity, "Amen, amen!" The king told me, furthermore, that I -should have a guide the day following, who would conduct me safely -to the frontier of his kingdom--I then took my leave, and in the -evening sent the king an order upon Dr. Laidley for three gallons of -rum, and received in return great store of provisions. - -December 6.--Early in the morning I went to the king a second time, -to learn if the guide was ready. I found his Majesty seated upon a -bullock's hide, warming himself before a large fire, for the -Africans are sensible of the smallest variation in the temperature -of the air, and frequently complain of cold when a European is -oppressed with heat. He received me with a benevolent countenance, -and tenderly entreated me to desist from my purpose of travelling -into the interior, telling me that Major Houghton had been killed in -his route, and that if I followed his footsteps I should probably -meet with his fate. He said that I must not judge of the people of -the eastern country by those of Woolli: that the latter were -acquainted with white men, and respected them, whereas the people of -the east had never seen a white man, and would certainly destroy me. -I thanked the king for his affectionate solicitude, but told him -that I had considered the matter, and was determined, -notwithstanding all dangers, to proceed. The king shook his head, -but desisted from further persuasion, and told me the guide should -be ready in the afternoon. - -About two o'clock, the guide appearing, I went and took my last -farewell of the good old king, and in three hours reached Konjour, a -small village, where we determined to rest for the night. Here I -purchased a fine sheep for some beads, and my Serawoolli attendants -killed it with all the ceremonies prescribed by their religion. -Part of it was dressed for supper, after which a dispute arose -between one of the Serawoolli negroes, and Johnson, my interpreter, -about the sheep's horns. The former claimed the horns as his -perquisite, for having acted the part of our butcher, and Johnson -contested the claim. I settled the matter by giving a horn to each -of them. This trifling incident is mentioned as introductory to -what follows, for it appeared on inquiry that these horns were -highly valued, as being easily convertible into portable sheaths, or -cases, for containing and keeping secure certain charms or amulets -called saphies, which the negroes constantly wear about them. These -saphies are prayers, or rather sentences, from the Koran, which the -Mohammedan priests write on scraps of paper, and sell to the simple -natives, who consider them to possess very extraordinary virtues. -Some of the negroes wear them to guard themselves against the bite -of snakes or alligators; and on this occasion the saphie is commonly -enclosed in a snake's or alligator's skin, and tied round the ankle. -Others have recourse to them in time of war, to protect their -persons against hostile weapons; but the common use to which these -amulets are applied is to prevent or cure bodily diseases--to -preserve from hunger and thirst--and generally to conciliate the -favour of superior powers, under all the circumstances and -occurrences of life. {1} - -In this case it is impossible not to admire the wonderful contagion -of superstition, for, notwithstanding that the majority of the -negroes are pagans, and absolutely reject the doctrines of Mohammed, -I did not meet with a man, whether a bushreen or kafir, who was not -fully persuaded of the powerful efficacy of these amulets. The -truth is, that all the natives of this part of Africa consider the -art of writing as bordering on magic; and it is not in the doctrines -of the prophet, but in the arts of the magician, that their -confidence is placed. It will hereafter be seen that I was myself -lucky enough, in circumstances of distress, to turn the popular -credulity in this respect to good account. - -On the 7th I departed from Konjour, and slept at a village called -Malla (or Mallaing), and on the 8th about noon I arrived at Kolor, a -considerable town, near the entrance into which I observed, hanging -upon a tree, a sort of masquerade habit, made of the bark of trees, -which I was told, on inquiry, belonged to Mumbo Jumbo. This is a -strange bugbear, common to all the Mandingo towns, and much employed -by the pagan natives in keeping their women in subjection; for as -the kafirs are not restricted in the number of their wives, every -one marries as many as he can conveniently maintain--and as it -frequently happens that the ladies disagree among themselves, family -quarrels sometimes rise to such a height, that the authority of the -husband can no longer preserve peace in his household. In such -cases, the interposition of Mumbo Jumbo is called in, and is always -decisive. - -This strange minister of justice (who is supposed to be either the -husband himself, or some person instructed by him), disguised in the -dress that has been mentioned, and armed with the rod of public -authority, announces his coming (whenever his services are required) -by loud and dismal screams in the woods near the town. He begins -the pantomime at the approach of night; and as soon as it is dark he -enters the town, and proceeds to the bentang, at which all the -inhabitants immediately assemble. - -December 9.--As there was no water to be procured on the road, we -travelled with great expedition until we reached Tambacunda; and -departing from thence early the next morning, the 10th, we reached -in the evening Kooniakary, a town of nearly the same magnitude as -Kolor. About noon on the 11th we arrived at Koojar, the frontier -town of Woolli, towards Bondou, from which it is separated by an -intervening wilderness of two days' journey. - -The guide appointed by the king of Woolli being now to return, I -presented him with some amber for his trouble; and having been -informed that it was not possible at all times to procure water in -the wilderness, I made inquiry for men who would serve both as -guides and water-bearers during my journey across it. Three -negroes, elephant-hunters, offered their services for these -purposes, which I accepted, and paid them three bars each in -advance; and the day being far spent, I determined to pass the night -in my present quarters. - -The inhabitants of Koojar, though not wholly unaccustomed to the -sight of Europeans (most of them having occasionally visited the -countries on the Gambia), beheld me with a mixture of curiosity and -reverence, and in the evening invited me to see a neobering, or -wrestling-match, at the bentang. This is an exhibition very common -in all the Mandingo countries. The spectators arranged themselves -in a circle, leaving the intermediate space for the wrestlers, who -were strong active young men, full of emulation, and accustomed, I -suppose, from their infancy to this sort of exertion. Being -stripped of their clothing, except a short pair of drawers, and -having their skin anointed with oil, or shea butter, the combatants -approached each other on all-fours, parrying with, and occasionally -extending a hand for some time, till at length one of them sprang -forward, and caught his rival by the knee. Great dexterity and -judgment were now displayed, but the contest was decided by superior -strength; and I think that few Europeans would have been able to -cope with the conqueror. It must not be unobserved, that the -combatants were animated by the music of a drum, by which their -actions were in some measure regulated. - -The wrestling was succeeded by a dance, in which many performers -assisted, all of whom were provided with little bells, which were -fastened to their legs and arms; and here, too, the drum regulated -their motions. It was beaten with a crooked stick, which the -drummer held in his right hand, occasionally using his left to -deaden the sound, and thus vary the music. The drama is likewise -applied on these occasions to keep order among the spectators, by -imitating the sound of certain Mandingo sentences. For example, -when the wrestling-match is about to begin, the drummer strikes what -is understood to signify ali bae see (sit all down), upon which the -spectators immediately seat themselves; and when the combatants are -to begin, he strikes amuta! amuta! (take hold! take hold!) - -In the course of the evening I was presented, by way of refreshment, -with a liquor, which tasted so much like the strong beer of my -native country (and very good beer too), as to induce me to inquire -into its composition; and I learnt, with some degree of surprise, -that it was actually made from corn which had been previously -malted, much in the same manner as barley is malted in Great -Britain. A root yielding a grateful bitter was used in lieu of -hops, the name of which I have forgotten; but the corn which yields -the wort is the holcus spicatus of botanists. - -Early in the morning (the 12th) I found that one of the elephant- -hunters had absconded with the money he had received from me in part -of wages; and in order to prevent the other two from following his -example, I made them instantly fill their calabashes (or gourds) -with water; and as the sun rose, I entered the wilderness that -separates the kingdoms of Woolli and Bondou. - -We continued our journey without stopping any more until noon, when -we came to a large tree, called by the natives neema taba. It had a -very singular appearance, being decorated with innumerable rags or -scraps of cloth, which persons travelling across the wilderness had -at different times tied to the branches, probably at first to inform -the traveller that water was to be found near it; but the custom has -been so greatly sanctioned by time, that nobody now presumes to pass -without hanging up something. I followed the example, and suspended -a handsome piece of cloth on one of the boughs; and being told that -either a well, or pool of water, was at no great distance, I ordered -the negroes to unload the asses, that we might give them corn, and -regale ourselves with the provisions we had brought. In the -meantime, I sent one of the elephant-hunters to look for the well, -intending, if water was to be obtained, to rest here for the night. -A pool was found, but the water was thick and muddy, and the negro -discovered near it the remains of a fire recently extinguished, and -the fragments of provisions, which afforded a proof that it had been -lately visited, either by travellers or banditti. The fears of my -attendants supposed the latter; and believing that robbers lurked -near as, I was persuaded to change my resolution of resting here all -night, and proceed to another watering-place, which I was assured we -might reach early in the evening. - -We departed accordingly, but it was eight o'clock at night before we -came to the watering-place; and being now sufficiently fatigued with -so long a day's journey, we kindled a large fire and lay down, -surrounded by our cattle, on the bare ground, more than a gunshot -from any bush, the negroes agreeing to keep watch by turns to -prevent surprise. - -I know not, indeed, that any danger was justly to be dreaded, but -the negroes were unaccountably apprehensive of banditti during the -whole of the journey. As soon, therefore, as daylight appeared, we -filled our soofroos (skins) and calabashes at the pool, and set out -for Tallika, the first town in Bondou, which we reached about eleven -o'clock in the forenoon (the 13th of December). - - - -CHAPTER IV--FROM TALLIKA TO KAJAAGA - - - -Tallika, the frontier town of Bondou towards Woolli, is inhabited -chiefly by Foulahs of the Mohammedan religion, who live in -considerable affluence, partly by furnishing provisions to the -coffles, or caravans, that pass through the town, and partly by the -sale of ivory, obtained by hunting elephants, in which employment -the young men are generally very successful. Here an officer -belonging to the king of Bondou constantly resides, whose business -it is to give timely information of the arrival of the caravans, -which are taxed according to the number of loaded asses that arrive -at Tallika. - -I took up my residence at this officer's house, and agreed with him -to accompany me to Fatteconda, the residence of the king, for which -he was to receive five bars; and before my departure I wrote a few -lines to Dr. Laidley, and gave my letter to the master of a caravan -bound for the Gambia. This caravan consisted of nine or ten people, -with five asses loaded with ivory. The large teeth are conveyed in -nets, two on each side of the ass; the small ones are wrapped up in -skins, and secured with ropes. - -December 14.--We left Tallika, and rode on very peaceably for about -two miles, when a violent quarrel arose between two of my fellow- -travellers, one of whom was the blacksmith, in the course of which -they bestowed some opprobrious terms upon each other; and it is -worthy of remark, that an African will sooner forgive a blow than a -term of reproach applied to his ancestors. "Strike me, but do not -curse my mother," is a common expression even among the slaves. -This sort of abuse, therefore, so enraged one of the disputants, -that he drew his cutlass upon the blacksmith, and would certainly -have ended the dispute in a very serious manner, if the others had -not laid hold of him and wrested the cutlass from him. I was -obliged to interfere, and put an end to this disagreeable business -by desiring the blacksmith to be silent, and telling the other, who -I thought was in the wrong, that if he attempted in future to draw -his cutlass, or molest any of my attendants, I should look upon him -as a robber, and shoot him without further ceremony. This threat -had the desired effect, and we marched sullenly along till the -afternoon, when we arrived at a number of small villages scattered -over an open and fertile plain. At one of these, called Ganado, we -took up our residence for the night; here an exchange of presents -and a good supper terminated all animosities among my attendants, -and the night was far advanced before any of us thought of going to -sleep. We were amused by an itinerant SINGING MAN, who told a -number of diverting stories, and played some sweet airs by blowing -his breath upon a bow-string, and striking it at the same time with -a stick. - -December 15.--At daybreak my fellow-travellers, the Serawoollies, -took leave of me, with many prayers for my safety. About a mile -from Ganado we crossed a considerable branch of the Gambia, called -Neriko. The banks were steep and covered with mimosas; and I -observed in the mud a number of large mussels, but the natives do -not eat them. About noon, the sun being exceedingly hot, we rested -two hours in the shade of a tree, and purchased some milk and -pounded corn from some Foulah herdsmen, and at sunset reached a town -called Koorkarany, where the blacksmith had some relations; and here -we rested two days. - -Koorkarany is a Mohammedan town surrounded by a high wall, and is -provided with a mosque. Here I was shown a number of Arabic -manuscripts, particularly a copy of the book before mentioned, -called Al Sharra. The maraboo, or priest, in whose possession it -was, read and explained to me in Mandingo many of the most -remarkable passages, and, in return, I showed him Richardson's -Arabic Grammar, which he very much admired. - -On the evening of the second day (December 17) we departed from -Koorkarany. We were joined by a young man who was travelling to -Fatteconda for salt; and as night set in we reached Dooggi, a small -village about three miles from Koorkarany. - -Provisions were here so cheap that I purchased a bullock for six -small stones of amber; for I found my company increase or diminish -according to the good fare they met with. - -December 18.--Early in the morning we departed from Dooggi, and, -being joined by a number of Foulahs and other people, made a -formidable appearance, and were under no apprehension of being -plundered in the woods. About eleven o'clock, one of the asses -proving very refractory, the negroes took a curious method to make -him tractable. They cut a forked stick, and putting the forked part -into the ass's mouth, like the bit of a bridle, tied the two smaller -parts together above his head, leaving the lower part of the stick -of sufficient length to strike against the ground, if the ass should -attempt to put his head down. After this the ass walked along -quietly and gravely enough, taking care, after some practice, to -hold his head sufficiently high to prevent stones or roots of trees -from striking against the end of the stick, which experience had -taught him would give a severe shock to his teeth. This contrivance -produced a ludicrous appearance, but my fellow-travellers told me it -was constantly adopted by the slatees, and always proved effectual. - -In the evening we arrived at a few scattered villages, surrounded -with extensive cultivation, at one of which, called Buggil, we -passed the night in a miserable hut, having no other bed than a -bundle of corn-stalks, and no provisions but what we brought with -us. The wells here are dug with great ingenuity, and are very deep. -I measured one of the bucket-ropes, and found the depth of the well -to be twenty-eight fathoms. - -December 19.--We departed from Buggil, and travelled along a dry, -stony height, covered with mimosas, till mid-day, when the land -sloped towards the east, and we descended into a deep valley, in -which I observed abundance of whinstone and white quartz. Pursuing -our course to the eastward, along this valley in the bed of an -exhausted river-course, we came to a large village, where we -intended to lodge. We found many of the natives dressed in a thin -French gauze, which they called byqui; this being a light airy -dress, and well calculated to display the shape of their persons, is -much esteemed by the ladies. The manners of these females, however, -did not correspond with their dress, for they were rude and -troublesome in the highest degree; they surrounded me in numbers, -begging for amber, beads, &c., and were so vehement in their -solicitations, that I found it impossible to resist them. They tore -my cloak, cut the buttons from my boy's clothes, and were proceeding -to other outrages, when I mounted my horse and rode off, followed -for half-a-mile by a body of these harpies. - -In the evening we reached Soobrudooka, and as my company was -numerous (being fourteen), I purchased a sheep and abundance of corn -for supper; after which we lay down by the bundles, and passed an -uncomfortable night in a heavy dew. - -December 20.--We departed from Soobrudooka, and at two o'clock -reached a large village situated on the banks of the Faleme river, -which is here rapid and rocky. The natives were employed in fishing -in various ways. The large fish were taken in long baskets made of -split cane, and placed in a strong current, which was created by -walls of stone built across the stream, certain open places being -left, through which the water rushed with great force. Some of -these baskets were more than twenty feet long, and when once the -fish had entered one of them, the force of the stream prevented it -from returning. The small fish were taken in great numbers in hand- -nets, which the natives weave of cotton, and use with great -dexterity. The fish last mentioned are about the size of sprats, -and are prepared for sale in different ways; the most common is by -pounding them entire as they come from the stream, in a wooden -mortar, and exposing them to dry in the sun, in large lumps like -sugar loaves. It may be supposed that the smell is not very -agreeable; but in the Moorish countries to the north of the Senegal, -where fish is scarcely known, this preparation is esteemed as a -luxury, and sold to considerable advantage. The manner of using it -by the natives is by dissolving a piece of this black loaf in -boiling water, and mixing it with their kouskous. - -On returning to the village, after an excursion to the river-side to -inspect the fishery, an old Moorish shereef came to bestow his -blessing upon me, and beg some paper to write saphies upon. This -man had seen Major Houghton in the kingdom of Kaarta, and told me -that he died in the country of the Moors. - -About three in the afternoon we continued our course along the bank -of the river to the northward, till eight o'clock, when we reached -Nayemow. Here the hospitable master of the town received us kindly, -and presented us with a bullock. In return I gave him some amber -and beads. - -December 21.--In the morning, having agreed for a canoe to carry -over my bundles, I crossed the river, which came up to my knees as I -sat on my horse; but the water is so clear, that from the high bank -the bottom is visible all the way over. - -About noon we entered Fatteconda, the capital of Bondou, and in a -little time received an invitation to the house of a respectable -slatee: for as there are no public-houses in Africa, it is -customary for strangers to stand at the bentang, or some other place -of public resort, till they are invited to a lodging by some of the -inhabitants. We accepted the offer; and in an hour afterwards a -person came and told me that he was sent on purpose to conduct me to -the king, who was very desirous of seeing me immediately, if I was -not too much fatigued. - -I took my interpreter with me, and followed the messenger till we -got quite out of the town, and crossed some corn-fields; when, -suspecting some trick, I stopped, and asked the guide whither he was -going. Upon which, he pointed to a man sitting under a tree at some -little distance, and told me that the king frequently gave audience -in that retired manner, in order to avoid a crowd of people, and -that nobody but myself and my interpreter must approach him. When I -advanced the king desired me to come and sit by him upon the mat; -and, after hearing my story, on which be made no observation, he -asked if I wished to purchase any slaves or gold. Being answered in -the negative, he seemed rather surprised, but desired me to come to -him in the evening, and he would give me some provisions. - -This monarch was called Almami, a Moorish name, though I was told -that he was not a Mohammedan, but a kafir or pagan. I had heard -that he had acted towards Major Houghton with great unkindness, and -caused him to be plundered. His behaviour, therefore, towards -myself at this interview, though much more civil than I expected, -was far from freeing me from uneasiness. I still apprehended some -double-dealing; and as I was now entirely in his power, I thought it -best to smooth the way by a present. Accordingly, I took with me in -the evening one canister of gunpowder, some amber, tobacco, and my -umbrella; and as I considered that my bundles would inevitably be -searched, I concealed some few articles in the roof of the hut where -I lodged, and I put on my new blue coat in order to preserve it. - -All the houses belonging to the king and his family are surrounded -by a lofty mud wall, which converts the whole into a kind of -citadel. The interior is subdivided into different courts. At the -first place of entrance I observed a man standing with a musket on -his shoulder; and I found the way to the presence very intricate, -leading through many passages, with sentinels placed at the -different doors. When we came to the entrance of the court in which -the king resides, both my guide and interpreter, according to -custom, took off their sandals; and the former pronounced the king's -name aloud, repeating it till he was answered from within. We found -the monarch sitting upon a mat, and two attendants with him. I -repeated what I had before told him concerning the object of my -journey, and my reasons for passing through his country. He seemed, -however, but half satisfied. When I offered to show him the -contents of my portmanteau, and everything belonging to me, he was -convinced; and it was evident that his suspicion had arisen from a -belief that every white man must of necessity be a trader. When I -had delivered my presents, he seemed well pleased, and was -particularly delighted with the umbrella, which he repeatedly furled -and unfurled, to the great admiration of himself and his two -attendants, who could not for some time comprehend the use of this -wonderful machine. After this I was about to take my leave, when -the king, desiring me to stop a while, began a long preamble in -favour of the whites, extolling their immense wealth and good -dispositions. He next proceeded to an eulogium on my blue coat, of -which the yellow buttons seemed particularly to catch his fancy; and -he concluded by entreating me to present him with it, assuring me, -for my consolation under the loss of it, that he would wear it on -all public occasions, and inform every one who saw it of my great -liberality towards him. The request of an African prince, in his -own dominions, particularly when made to a stranger, comes little -short of a command. It is only a way of obtaining by gentle means -what he can, if he pleases, take by force; and as it was against my -interest to offend him by a refusal, I very quietly took off my -coat, the only good one in my possession, and laid it at his feet. - -In return for my compliance, he presented me with great plenty of -provisions, and desired to see me again in the morning. I -accordingly attended, and found in sitting upon his bed. He told me -he was sick, and wished to have a little blood taken from him; but I -had no sooner, tied up his arm and displayed the lancet, than his -courage failed, and he begged me to postpone the operation till the -afternoon, as he felt himself, he said, much better than he had -been, and thanked me kindly for my readiness to serve him. He then -observed that his women were very desirous to see me, and requested -that I would favour them with a visit. An attendant was ordered to -conduct me; and I had no sooner entered the court appropriated to -the ladies, than the whole seraglio surrounded me--some begging for -physic, some for amber, and all of them desirous of trying that -great African specific, BLOOD-LETTING. They were ten or twelve in -number, most of them young and handsome, and wearing on their heads -ornaments of gold, and beads of amber. - -They rallied me with a good deal of gaiety on different subjects, -particularly upon the whiteness of my skin and the prominency of my -nose. They insisted that both were artificial. The first, they -said, was produced when I was an infant, by dipping me in milk; and -they insisted that my nose had been pinched every day, till it had -acquired its present unsightly and unnatural conformation. On my -part, without disputing my own deformity, I paid them many -compliments on African beauty. I praised the glossy jet of their -skins, and the lovely depression of their noses; but they said that -flattery, or, as they emphatically termed it, honey-mouth, was not -esteemed in Bondou. In return, however, for my company or my -compliments (to which, by the way, they seemed not so insensible as -they affected to be) they presented me with a jar of honey and some -fish, which were sent to my lodging; and I was desired to come again -to the king a little before sunset. - -I carried with me some beads and writing-paper, it being usual to -present some small offering on taking leave, in return for which the -king gave me five drachms of gold, observing that it was but a -trifle, and given out of pure friendship, but would be of use to me -in travelling, for the purchase of provisions. He seconded this act -of kindness by one still greater, politely telling me that, though -it was customary to examine the baggage of every traveller passing -through his country, yet, in the present instance, he would dispense -without ceremony, adding, I was at liberty to depart when I pleased. - -Accordingly, on the morning of the 23rd, we left Fatteconda, and -about eleven o'clock came to a small village, where we determined to -stop for the rest of the day. - -In the afternoon my fellow-travellers informed me that, as this was -the boundary between Bondou and Kajaaga, and dangerous for -travellers, it would be necessary to continue our journey by night, -until we should reach a more hospitable part of the country. I -agreed to the proposal, and hired two people for guides through the -woods; and as soon as the people of the village were gone to sleep -(the moon shining bright) we set out. The stillness of the air, the -howling of the wild beasts, and the deep solitude of the forest, -made the scene solemn and oppressive. Not a word was uttered by any -of us but in a whisper; all were attentive, and every one anxious to -show his sagacity by pointing out to me the wolves and hyaenas, as -they glided like shadows from one thicket to another. Towards -morning we arrived at a village called Kimmoo, where our guides -awakened one of their acquaintances, and we stopped to give the -asses some corn, and roast a few ground-nuts for ourselves. At -daylight we resumed our journey, and in the afternoon arrived at -Joag, in the kingdom of Kajaaga. - -Being now in a country and among a people differing in many respects -from those that have as yet fallen under our observation, I shall, -before I proceed further, give some account of Bondou (the territory -we have left) and its inhabitants, the Foulahs, the description of -whom I purposely reserved for this part of my work. - -Bondou is bounded on the east by Bambouk, on the south-east and -south by Tenda and the Simbani wilderness, on the south-west by -Woolli, on the west by Foota Torra, and on the north by Kajaaga. - -The country, like that of Woolli, is very generally covered with -woods, but the land is more elevated, and, towards the Faleme river, -rises into considerable hills. In native fertility the soil is not -surpassed, I believe, by any part of Africa. - -From the central situation of Bondou, between the Gambia and Senegal -rivers, it is become a place of great resort, both for the slatees, -who generally pass through it on going from the coast to the -interior countries, and for occasional traders, who frequently come -hither from the inland countries to purchase salt. - -These different branches of commerce are conducted principally by -Mandingoes and Serawoollies, who have settled in the country. These -merchants likewise carry on a considerable trade with Gedumah and -other Moorish countries, bartering corn and blue cotton cloths for -salt, which they again barter in Dentila and other districts for -iron, shea-butter, and small quantities of gold-dust. They likewise -sell a variety of sweet-smelling gums, packed up in small bags, -containing each about a pound. These gums, being thrown on hot -embers, produce a very pleasant odour, and are used by the -Mandingoes for perfuming their huts and clothes. - -The customs, or duties on travellers, are very heavy; in almost -every town an ass-load pays a bar of European merchandise, and at -Fatteconda, the residence of the king, one Indian baft, or a musket, -and six bottles of gunpowder, are exacted as the common tribute. By -means of these duties, the king of Bondou is well supplied with arms -and ammunition--a circumstance which makes him formidable to the -neighbouring states. - -The inhabitants differ in their complexions and national manners -from the Mandingoes and Serawoollies, with whom they are frequently -at war. Some years ago the king of Bondou crossed the Faleme river -with a numerous army; and, after a short and bloody campaign, -totally defeated the forces of Samboo, king of Bambouk, who was -obliged to sue for peace, and surrender to him all the towns along -the eastern bank of the Faleme. - -The Foulahs in general (as has been observed in a former chapter) -are of a tawny complexion, with small features and soft silky hair; -next to the Mandingoes, they are undoubtedly the most considerable -of all the nations in this part of Africa. Their original country -is said to be Fooladoo (which signifies the country of the Foulahs); -but they possess at present many other kingdoms at a great distance -from each other; their complexion, however, is not exactly the same -in the different districts; in Bondou, and the other kingdoms which -are situated in the vicinity of the Moorish territories, they are of -a more yellow complexion than in the southern states. - -The Foulahs of Bondou are naturally of a mild and gentle -disposition, but the uncharitable maxims of the Koran have made them -less hospitable to strangers, and more reserved in their behaviour, -than the Mandingoes. They evidently consider all the negro natives -as their inferiors; and, when talking of different nations, always -rank themselves among the white people. - -Their government differs from that of the Mandingoes chiefly in -this, that they are more immediately under the influence of -Mohammedan laws; for all the chief men, the king excepted, and a -large majority of the inhabitants of Bondou, are Mussulmans, and the -authority and laws of the Prophet are everywhere looked upon as -sacred and decisive. In the exercise of their faith, however, they -are not very intolerant towards such of their countrymen as still -retain their ancient superstitions. Religious persecution is not -known among them, nor is it necessary; for the system of Mohammed is -made to extend itself by means abundantly more efficacious. By -establishing small schools in the different towns, where many of the -pagan as well as Mohammedan children are taught to read the Koran, -and instructed in the tenets of the Prophet, the Mohammedan priests -fix a bias on the minds, and form the character, of their young -disciples, which no accidents of life can ever afterwards remove or -alter. Many of these little schools I visited in my progress -through the country, and I observed with pleasure the great docility -and submissive deportment of the children, and heartily wished they -had had better instructors and a purer religion. - -With the Mohammedan faith is also introduced the Arabic language, -with which most of the Foulahs have a slight acquaintance. Their -native tongue abounds very much in liquids, but there is something -unpleasant in the manner of pronouncing it. A stranger, on hearing -the common conversation of two Foulahs, would imagine that they were -scolding each other. Their numerals are these:- - - -One, Go. -Two, Deeddee. -Three, Tettee. -Four, Nee. -Five, Jouee. -Six, Jego. -Seven, Jedeeddee. -Eight, Je Tettee. -Nine, Je Nee. -Ten, Sappo. - - -The industry of the Foulahs, in the occupations of pasturage and -agriculture, is everywhere remarkable. Even on the banks of the -Gambia, the greater part of the corn is raised by them, and their -herds and flocks are more numerous and in better condition than -those of the Mandingoes; but in Bondou they are opulent in a high -degree, and enjoy all the necessaries of life in the greatest -profusion. They display great skill in the management of their -cattle, making them extremely gentle by kindness and familiarity. -On the approach of the night, they are collected from the woods and -secured in folds called korrees, which are constructed in the -neighbourhood of the different villages. In the middle of each -korree is erected a small hut, wherein one or two of the herdsmen -keep watch during the night, to prevent the cattle from being -stolen, and to keep up the fires which are kindled round the korree -to frighten away the wild beasts. - -The cattle are milked in the mornings and evenings: the milk is -excellent; but the quantity obtained from any one cow is by no means -so great as in Europe. The Foulahs use the milk chiefly as an -article of diet, and that not until it is quite sour. The cream -which it affords is very thick, and is converted into butter by -stirring it violently in a large calabash. This butter, when melted -over a gentle fire, and freed from impurities, is preserved in small -earthen pots, and forms a part in most of their dishes; it serves -likewise to anoint their heads, and is bestowed very liberally on -their faces and arms. - -But although milk is plentiful, it is somewhat remarkable that the -Foulahs, and indeed all the inhabitants of this part of Africa, are -totally unacquainted with the art of making cheese. A firm -attachment to the customs of their ancestors makes them view with an -eye of prejudice everything that looks like innovation. The heat of -the climate and the great scarcity of salt are held forth as -unanswerable objections; and the whole process appears to them too -long and troublesome to be attended with any solid advantage. - -Besides the cattle, which constitute the chief wealth of the -Foulahs, they possess some excellent horses, the breed of which -seems to be a mixture of the Arabian with the original African. - - - -CHAPTER V--FROM KAJAAGA TO KASSON - - - -The kingdom of Kajaaga, in which I was now arrived, is called by the -French Gallam, but the name that I have adopted is universally used -by the natives. This country is bounded on the south-east and south -by Bambouk, on the west by Bondou and Foota-Torra, and on the north -by the river Senegal. - -The air and climate are, I believe, more pure and salubrious than at -any of the settlements towards the coast; the face of the country is -everywhere interspersed with a pleasing variety of hills and -valleys; and the windings of the Senegal river, which descends from -the rocky hills of the interior, make the scenery on its banks very -picturesque and beautiful. - -The inhabitants are called Serawoollies, or (as the French write it) -Seracolets. Their complexion is a jet black: they are not to be -distinguished in this respect from the Jaloffs. - -The government is monarchical, and the regal authority, from what I -experienced of it, seems to be sufficiently formidable. The people -themselves, however, complain of no oppression, and seemed all very -anxious to support the king in a contest he was going to enter into -with the sovereign of Kasson. The Serawoollies are habitually a -trading people; they formerly carried on a great commerce with the -French in gold and slaves, and still maintain some traffic in slaves -with the British factories on the Gambia. They are reckoned -tolerably fair and just in their dealings, but are indefatigable in -their exertions to acquire wealth, and they derive considerable -profits by the sale of salt and cotton cloth in distant countries. -When a Serawoolli merchant returns home from a trading expedition -the neighbours immediately assemble to congratulate him upon his -arrival. On these occasions the traveller displays his wealth and -liberality by making a few presents to his friends; but if he has -been unsuccessful his levee is soon over, and every one looks upon -him as a man of no understanding, who could perform a long journey, -and (at they express it) "bring back nothing but the hair upon his -head." - -Their language abounds much in gutturals, and is not so harmonious -as that spoken by the Foulahs. It is, however, well worth acquiring -by those who travel through this part of the African continent, it -being very generally understood in the kingdoms of Kasson, Kaarta, -Ludamar, and the northern parts of Bambarra. In all these countries -the Serawoollies are the chief traders. Their numerals are:- - - -One, Bani. -Two, Fillo. -Three, Sicco. -Four, Narrato. -Five, Karrago. -Six, Toomo. -Seven, Nero. -Eight, Sego. -Nine, Kabbo. -Ten, Tamo. -Twenty, Tamo di Fillo. - - -We arrived at Joag, the frontier town of this kingdom, on the 24th -of December, and took up our residence at the house of the chief -man, who is here no longer known by the title of alkaid, but is -called the dooty. He was a rigid Mohammedan, but distinguished for -his hospitality. This town may be supposed, on a gross computation, -to contain two thousand inhabitants. It is surrounded by a high -wall, in which are a number of port-holes, for musketry to fire -through, in case of an attack. Every man's possession is likewise -surrounded by a wall, the whole forming so many distinct citadels; -and amongst a people unacquainted with the use of artillery these -walls answer all the purposes of stronger fortifications. To the -westward of the town is a small river, on the banks of which the -natives raise great plenty of tobacco and onions. - -The same evening Madiboo, the bushreen, who had accompanied me from -Pisania, went to pay a visit to his father and mother, who dwelt at -a neighbouring town called Dramanet. He was joined by my other -attendant, the blacksmith. As soon as it was dark I was invited to -see the sports of the inhabitants, it being their custom, on the -arrival of strangers, to welcome them by diversions of different -kinds. I found a great crowd surrounding a party who were dancing, -by the light of some large fires, to the music of four drums, which -were beat with great exactness and uniformity. The dances, however, -consisted more in wanton gestures than in muscular exertion or -graceful attitudes. The ladies vied with each other in displaying -the most voluptuous movements imaginable. - -December 25.--About two o'clock in the morning a number of horsemen -came into the town, and, having awakened my landlord, talked to him -for some time in the Serawoolli tongue; after which they dismounted -and came to the bentang, on which I had made my bed. One of them, -thinking that I was asleep, attempted to steal the musket that lay -by me on the mat, but finding that he could not effect his purpose -undiscovered, he desisted, and the strangers sat down by me till -daylight. - -I could now easily perceive, by the countenance of my interpreter, -Johnson, that something very unpleasant was in agitation. I was -likewise surprised to see Madiboo and the blacksmith so soon -returned. On inquiring the reason, Madiboo informed me that, as -they were dancing at Dramanet, ten horsemen belonging to Batcheri, -king of the country, with his second son at their head, had arrived -there, inquiring if the white man had passed, and, on being told -that I was at Joag, they rode off without stopping. Madiboo added -that on hearing this he and the blacksmith hastened back to give me -notice of their coming. Whilst I was listening to this narrative -the ten horsemen mentioned by Madiboo arrived, and coming to the -bentang, dismounted and seated themselves with those who had come -before--the whole being about twenty in number--forming a circle -round me, and each man holding his musket in his hand. I took this -opportunity to observe to my landlord that, as I did not understand -the Serawoolli tongue, I hoped whatever the men had to say they -would speak in Mandingo. To this they agreed; and a short man, -loaded with a remarkable number of saphies, opened the business in a -very long harangue, informing me that I had entered the king's town -without having first paid the duties, or giving any present to the -king; and that, according to the laws of the country, my people, -cattle, and baggage were forfeited. He added that they had received -orders from the king to conduct me to Maana, {2} the place of his -residence, and if I refused to come with them their orders were to -bring me by force; upon his saying which all of them rose up and -asked me if I was ready. It would have been equally vain and -imprudent in me to have resisted or irritated such a body of men; I -therefore affected to comply with their commands, and begged them -only to stop a little until I had given my horse a feed of corn, and -settled matters with my landlord. The poor blacksmith, who was a -native of Kasson, mistook this feigned compliance for a real -intention, and taking me away from the company, told me that he had -always behaved towards me as if I had been his father and master, -and he hoped I would not entirely ruin him by going to Maana, adding -that as there was every reason to believe a war would soon take -place between Kasson and Kajaaga, he should not only lose his little -property, the savings of four years' industry, but should certainly -be detained and sold as a slave, unless his friends had an -opportunity of paying two slaves for his redemption. I saw this -reasoning in its full force, and determined to do my utmost to -preserve the blacksmith from so dreadful a fate. I therefore told -the king's son that I was ready to go with him, upon condition that, -the blacksmith, who was an inhabitant of a distant kingdom, and -entirely unconnected with me, should be allowed to stay at Joag till -my return. To this they all objected, and insisted that, as we had -all acted contrary to the laws, we were all equally answerable for -our conduct. - -I now took my landlord aside, and giving him a small present of -gunpowder, asked his advice in such critical a situation. He was -decidedly of opinion that I ought not to go to the king: he was -fully convinced, he said, that if the king should discover anything -valuable in my possession, he would not be over scrupulous about the -means of obtaining it. - -Towards the evening, as I was sitting upon the bentang chewing -straws, an old female slave, passing by with a basket upon her head, -asked me IF HAD GOT MY DINNER. As I thought she only laughed at me, -I gave her no answer; but my boy, who was sitting close by, answered -for me, and told her that the king's people had robbed me of all my -money. On hearing this, the good old woman, with a look of -unaffected benevolence, immediately took the basket from her head, -and showing me that it contained ground nuts, asked me if I could -eat them. Being answered in the affirmative, she presented me with -a few handfuls, and walked away before I had time to thank her for -this seasonable supply. - -The old woman had scarcely left me when I received information that -a nephew of Demba Sego Jalla, the Mandingo king of Kasson, was -coming to pay me a visit. He had been sent on an embassy to -Batcheri, King of Kajaaga, to endeavour to settle the disputes which -had arisen between his uncle and the latter; but after debating the -matter four days without success, he was now on his return, and -hearing that a white man was at Joag, on his way to Kasson, -curiosity brought in to see me. I represented to him my situation -and distresses, when he frankly offered me his protection, and said -he would be my guide to Kasson (provided I would set out the next -morning), and be answerable for my safety. I readily and gratefully -accepted his offer, and was ready with my attendants by daylight on -the morning of the 27th of December. - -My protector, whose name was Demba Sego, probably after his uncle, -had a numerous retinue. Our company, at leaving Joag, consisted of -thirty persons and six loaded asses; and we rode on cheerfully -enough for some hours, without any remarkable occurrence until we -came to a species of tree for which my interpreter Johnson had made -frequent inquiry. On finding it, he desired us to stop, and -producing a white chicken, which he had purchased at Joag for the -purpose, he tied it by the leg to one of the branches, and then told -us we might now safely proceed, for that our journey would be -prosperous. - -At noon we had reached Gungadi, a large town where we stopped about -an hour, until some of the asses that had fallen behind came up. -Here I observed a number of date-trees, and a mosque built of clay, -with six turrets, on the pinnacles of which were placed six ostrich -eggs. A little before sunset we arrived at the town of Samee, on -the banks of the Senegal, which is here a beautiful but shallow -river, moving slowly over a bed of sand and gravel. The banks are -high, and covered with verdure--the country is open and cultivated-- -and the rocky hills of Fellow and Bambouk add much to the beauty of -the landscape. - -December 28.--We departed from Samee, and arrived in the afternoon -at Kayee, a large village, part of which is situated on the north -and part on the south side of the river. - -The ferryman then taking hold of the most steady of the horses by a -rope, led him into the water, and paddled the canoe a little from -the brink; upon which a general attack commenced upon the other -horses, who, finding themselves pelted and kicked on all sides, -unanimously plunged into the river, and followed their companion. A -few boys swam in after them; and, by laving water upon them when -they attempted to return, urged them onwards; and we had the -satisfaction in about fifteen minutes to see them all safe on the -other side. It was a matter of greater difficulty to manage the -asses; their natural stubbornness of disposition made them endure a -great deal of pelting and shoving before they would venture into the -water; and when they had reached the middle of the stream, four of -them turned back, in spite of every exertion to get them forwards. -Two hours were spent in getting the whole of them over; an hour more -was employed in transporting the baggage; and it was near sunset -before the canoe returned, when Demba Sego and myself embarked in -this dangerous passage-boat, which the least motion was like to -overset. The king's nephew thought this a proper time to have a -peep into a tin box of mine that stood in the fore part of the -canoe; and in stretching out his band for it, he unfortunately -destroyed the equilibrium, and overset the canoe. Luckily we were -not far advanced, and got back to the shore without much difficulty; -from whence, after wringing the water from our clothes, we took a -fresh departure, and were soon afterwards safely landed in Kasson. - - - -CHAPTER VI--TIGGITY SEGO'S PALAVER - - - -We no sooner found ourselves safe in Kasson than Demba Sego told me -that we were now in his uncle's dominions, and he hoped I would -consider, being now out of danger, the obligation I owed to him, and -make him a suitable return for the trouble he had taken on my -account by a handsome present. This, as he knew how much had been -pilfered from me at Joag, was rather an unexpected proposition, and -I began to fear that I had not much improved my condition by -crossing the water; but as it would have been folly to complain I -made no observation upon his conduct, and gave him seven bars of -amber and some tobacco, with which he seemed to be content. - -After a long day's journey, in the course of which I observed a -number of large loose nodules of white granite, we arrived at Teesee -on the evening of December 29th, and were accommodated in Demba -Sego's hut. The next morning he introduced me to his father, -Tiggity Sego, brother to the king of Kasson, chief of Teesee. The -old man viewed me with great earnestness, having never, he said, -beheld but one white man before, whom by his description I -immediately knew to be Major Houghton. - -In the afternoon one of his slaves eloped; and a general alarm being -given, every person that had a horse rode into the woods, in the -hopes of apprehending him, and Demba Sego begged the use of my horse -for the same purpose. I readily consented; and in about an hour -they all returned with the slave, who was severely flogged, and -afterwards put in irons. On the day following (December 31st) Demba -Sego was ordered to go with twenty horsemen to a town in Gedumah, to -adjust some dispute with the Moors, a party of whom were supposed to -have stolen three horses from Teesee. Demba begged a second the -time use of my horse, adding that the sight of my bridle and saddle -would give him consequence among the Moors. This request also I -readily granted, and he promised to return at the end of three days. -During his absence I amused myself with walking about the town, and -conversing with the natives, who attended me everywhere with great -kindness and curiosity, and supplied me with milk, eggs, and what -other provisions I wanted, on very easy terms. - -Teesee is a large unwalled town, having no security against the -attack of an enemy except a sort of citadel in which Tiggity and his -family constantly reside. This town, according to the report of the -natives, was formerly inhabited only by a few Foulah shepherds, who -lived in considerable affluence by means of the excellent meadows in -the neighbourhood, in which they reared great herds of cattle. But -their prosperity attracting the envy of some Mandingoes, the latter -drove out the shepherds, and took possession of their lands. - -The present inhabitants, though they possess both cattle and corn in -abundance, are not over nice in articles of diet; rats, moles, -squirrels, snakes, locusts, are eaten without scruple by the highest -and lowest. My people were one evening invited to a feast given by -some of the townsmen, where, after making a hearty meal of what they -thought fish and kouskous, one of them found a piece of hard skin in -the dish, and brought it along with him to show me what sort of fish -they had been eating. On examining the skin I found they had been -feasting on a large snake. Another custom still more extraordinary -is that no woman is allowed to eat an egg. This prohibition, -whether arising from ancient superstition or from the craftiness of -some old bushreen who loved eggs himself, is rigidly adhered to, and -nothing will more affront a woman of Teesee than to offer her an -egg. The custom is the more singular, as the men eat eggs without -scruple in the presence of their wives, and I never observed the -same prohibition in any other of the Mandingo countries. - -The third day after his son's departure, Tiggity Sego held a palaver -on a very extraordinary occasion, which I attended; and the debates -on both sides of the question displayed much ingenuity. The case -was this:- A young man, a kafir of considerable affluence, who had -recently married a young and handsome wife, applied to a very devout -bushreen, or Mussalman priest, of his acquaintance, to procure him -saphies for his protection during the approaching war. The bushreen -complied with the request; and in order, as he pretended, to render -the saphies more efficacious, enjoined the young man to avoid any -nuptial intercourse with his bride for the space of six weeks. -Severe as the injunction was, the kafir strictly obeyed; and, -without telling his wife the real cause, absented himself from her -company. In the meantime, it began to be whispered at Teesee that -the bushreen, who always performed his evening devotions at the door -of the kafir's hut, was more intimate with the young wife than he -ought to be. At first the good husband was unwilling to suspect the -honour of his sanctified friend, and one whole month elapsed before -any jealousy rose in his mind, but hearing the charge repeated, he -at last interrogated his wife on the subject, who frankly confessed -that the bushreen had seduced her. Hereupon the kafir put her into -confinement, and called a palaver upon the bushreen's conduct. The -fact was clearly proved against him; and he was sentenced to be sold -into slavery, or to find two slaves for his redemption, according to -the pleasure of the complainant. The injured husband, however, was -unwilling to proceed against his friend to such extremity, and -desired rather to have him publicly flogged before Tiggity Sego's -gate. This was agreed to, and the sentence was immediately -executed. The culprit was tied by the hands to a strong stake; and -a long black rod being brought forth, the executioner, after -flourishing it round his head for some time, applied it with such -force and dexterity to the bushreen's back as to make him roar until -the woods resounded with his screams. The surrounding multitude, by -their hooting and laughing, manifested how much they enjoyed the -punishment of this old gallant; and it is worthy of remark that the -number of stripes was precisely the same as are enjoined by the -Mosaic law, FORTY, SAVE ONE. - -As there appeared great probability that Teesee, from its being a -frontier town, would be much exposed during the war to the predatory -incursions of the Moors of Gedumah, Tiggity Sego had, before my -arrival, sent round to the neighbouring villages to beg or to -purchase as much provisions as would afford subsistence to the -inhabitants for one whole year, independently of the crop on the -ground, which the Moors might destroy. This project was well -received by the country people, and they fixed a day on which to -bring all the provisions they could spare to Teesee; and as my horse -was not yet returned, I went, in the afternoon of January 4th, 1796, -to meet the escort with the provisions. - -It was composed of about 400 men, marching in good order, with corn -and ground nuts in large calabashes upon their heads. They were -preceded by a strong guard of bowmen, and followed by eight -musicians or singing men. As soon as they approached the town the -latter began a song, every verse of which was answered by the -company, and succeeded by a few strokes on the large drums. In this -manner they proceeded, amidst the acclamations of the populace, till -they reached the house of Tiggity Sego, where the loads were -deposited; and in the evening they all assembled under the bentang -tree, and spent the night in dancing and merriment. - -On the 5th of January an embassy of ten people belonging to Almami -Abdulkader, king of Foota-Torra, a country to the west of Bondou, -arrived at Teesee; and desiring Tiggity to call an assembly of the -inhabitants, announced publicly their king's determination to this -effect:- 'That unless all the people of Kasson would embrace the -Mohammedan religion, and evince their conversion by saying eleven -public prayers, he, the king of Foota-Torra, could not possibly -stand neuter in the present contest, but would certainly join his -arms to those of Kajaaga.' A message of this nature from so -powerful a prince could not fail to create great alarm; and the -inhabitants of Teesee, after a long consultation, agreed to conform -to his good pleasure, humiliating as it was to them. Accordingly, -one and all publicly offered up eleven prayers, which were -considered a sufficient testimony of their having renounced -paganism, and embraced the doctrines of the prophet. - -It was time 8th of January before Demba Sego returned with my horse; -and being quite wearied out with the delay, I went immediately to -inform his father that I should set out for Kooniakary early the -next day. The old man made many frivolous objections, and at length -gave me to understand that I must not think of departing without -first paying him the same duties he was entitled to receive from all -travellers; besides which he expected, he said, some acknowledgment -for his kindness towards use. Accordingly, on the morning of the -9th, my friend Demba, with a number of people, came to me, and said -that they were sent by Tiggity Sego for my present, and wished to -see what goods I had appropriated for that purpose. I knew that -resistance was hopeless, and complaint unavailing: and being in -some measure prepared by the intimation I had received the night -before, I quietly offered him seven bars of amber and five of -tobacco. After surveying these articles for some time very coolly, -Demba laid them down, and told me that this was not a present for a -man of Tiggity Sego's consequence, who had it in his power to take -whatever he pleased from me. He added, that if I did not consent to -make him a larger offering he would carry all my baggage to his -father, and let him choose for himself. I had no time for reply, -for Demba and his attendants immediately began to open my bundles, -and spread the different articles upon the floor, where they -underwent a more strict examination than they had done at Joag. -Everything that pleased them they took without scruple: and amongst -other things, Demba seized the tin box that had so much attracted -his attention in crossing the river. Upon collecting the scattered -remains of my little fortune after these people had left me, I found -that, as at Joag I had been plundered of half, so here, without even -the shadow of accusation, I was deprived of half the remainder. The -blacksmith himself, though a native of Kasson, had also been -compelled to open his bundles, and take an oath that the different -articles they contained were his own exclusive property. There was, -however, no remedy, and having been under some obligation to Demba -Sego for his attention towards me in the journey from Joag, I did -not reproach him for his rapacity, but determined to quit Teesee, at -all events, the next morning. In the meanwhile, in order to raise -the drooping spirits of my attendants, I purchased a fat sheep, and -had it dressed for our dinner. - -Early in the morning of January 10th, therefore, I left Teesee, and -about mid-day ascended a ridge, from whence we had a distant view of -the hills round Kooniakary. In the evening we reached a small -village, where we slept, and, departing from thence the next -morning, crossed in a few hours a narrow but deep stream called -Krieko, a branch of the Senegal. About two miles farther to the -eastward we passed a large town called Madina, and at two o'clock -came in sight of Jumbo, the blacksmith's native town, from whence he -had been absent more than four years. Soon after this, his brother, -who had by some means been apprised of his coming, came out to meet -him, accompanied by a singing man. He brought a horse for the -blacksmith, that he might enter his native town in a dignified -manner; and he desired each of us to put a good charge of powder -into our guns. The singing man now led the way, followed by the two -brothers, and we were presently joined by a number of people from -the town, all of whom demonstrated great joy at seeing their old -acquaintance the blacksmith by the most extravagant jumping and -singing. On entering the town the singing man began an extempore -song in praise of the blacksmith, extolling his courage in having -overcome so many difficulties, and concluding with a strict -injunction to his friends to dress him plenty of victuals. - -When we arrived at the blacksmith's place of residence we -dismounted, and fired our muskets. The meeting between him and his -relations was very tender; for these rude children of nature, free -from restraint, display their emotions in the strongest and most -expressive manner. Amidst these transports the blacksmith's aged -mother was led forth, leaning upon a staff. Every one made way for -her, and she stretched out her hand to bid her son welcome. Being -totally blind, she stroked his hands, arms, and face with great -care, and seemed highly delighted that her latter days were blessed -by his return, and that her ears once more heard the music of his -voice. - -During the tumult of these congratulations I had seated myself apart -by the side of one of the huts, being unwilling to interrupt the -flow of filial and parental tenderness; and the attention of the -company was so entirely taken up with the blacksmith that I believe -none of his friends had observed me. When all the people present -had seated themselves the blacksmith was desired by his father to -give them some account of his adventures; and silence being -commanded, he began, and after repeatedly thanking God for the -success that had attended him, related every material occurrence -that had happened to him from his leasing Kasson to his arrival at -the Gambia, his employment and success in those parts, and the -dangers he had escaped in returning to his native country. In the -latter part of his narration he had frequently occasion to mention -me; and after many strong expressions concerning my kindness to him -he pointed to the place where I sat, and exclaimed, "Affille ibi -siring!"--("See him sitting there!") In a moment all eyes were -turned upon me; I appeared like a being dropped from the clouds; -every one was surprised that they had not observed me before; and a -few women and children expressed great uneasiness at being so near a -man of such an uncommon appearance. - -By degrees, however, their apprehensions subsided, and when the -blacksmith assured them that I was perfectly inoffensive, and would -hurt nobody, some of them ventured so far as to examine the texture -of my clothes; but many of them were still very suspicious; and when -by accident I happened to move myself, or look at the young -children, their mothers would scamper off with them with the -greatest precipitations. In a few hours, however, they all because -reconciled to me. - -With these worthy people I spent the remainder of that and the whole -of the ensuing day, in feasting and merriment; and the blacksmith -declared he would not quit me during my stay at Kooniakary--for -which place we set out early on the morning of the 14th of January, -and arrived about the middle of the day at Soolo, a small village -three miles to the south of it. - -As this place was somewhat out of the direct road, it is necessary -to observe that I went thither to visit a slatee or Gambia trader, -of great note and reputation, named Salim Daucari. He was well -known to Dr. Laidley, who had trusted him with effects to the value -of five slaves, and had given me an order for the whole of the debt. -We luckily found him at home, and he received me with great kindness -and attention. - -It is remarkable, however, that the king of Kasson was by some means -immediately apprised of my motions; for I had been at Soolo but a -few hours before Sambo Sego, his second son, came thither with a -party of horse, to inquire what had prevented me from proceeding to -Kooniakary, and waiting immediately upon the king, who, he said, was -impatient to see me. Salim Daucari made my apology, and promised to -accompany me to Kooniakary the same evening. We accordingly -departed from Soolo at sunset, and in about an hour entered -Kooniakary. But as the king had gone to sleep we deferred the -interview till next morning, and slept at the hut of Sambo Sego. - - - -CHAPTER VII--INTERVIEW WITH KING DEMBA SEGO JALLA - - - -About eight o'clock in the morning of January 15th, 1796, we went to -an audience of the king (Demba Sego Jalla), but the crowd of people -to see me was so great that I could scarcely get admittance. A -passage being at length obtained, I made my bow to the monarch, whom -we found sitting upon a mat, in a large hut. He appeared to be a -man of about sixty years of age. His success in war, and the -mildness of his behaviour in time of peace, had much endeared him to -all his subjects. He surveyed me with great attention; and when -Salim Daucari explained to him the object of my journey, and my -reasons for passing through his country, the good old king appeared -not only perfectly satisfied, but promised me every assistance in -his power. He informed me that he had seen Major Houghton, and -presented him with a white horse; but that, after crossing the -kingdom of Kaarta, he had lost his life among the Moors, in what -manner he could not inform me. When this audience was ended we -returned to our lodging, and I made up a small present for the king -out of the few effects that were left me; for I had not yet received -anything from Salim Daucari. This present, though inconsiderable in -itself, was well received by the king, who sent me in return a large -white bullock. The sight of this animal quite delighted my -attendants; not so much on account of its bulk, as from its being of -a white colour, which is considered as a particular mark of favour. -But although the king himself was well disposed towards me, and -readily granted me permission to pass through his territories, I -soon discovered that very great and unexpected obstacles were likely -to impede my progress. Besides the war which was on the point of -breaking out between Kasson and Kajaaga, I was told that the next -kingdom of Kaarta, through which my route lay, was involved in the -issue, and was furthermore threatened with hostilities on the part -of Bambarra. The king himself informed me of these circumstances, -and advised me to stay in the neighbourhood of Kooniakary till such -time as he could procure proper information respecting Bambarra, -which he expected to do in the course of four or five days, as he -had already, he said, sent four messengers into Kaarta for that -purpose. I readily submitted to this proposal, and went to Soolo, -to stay there till the return of one of those messengers. This -afforded me a favourable opportunity of receiving what money Salim -Daucari could spare me on Dr. Laidley's account. I succeeded in -receiving the value of there slaves, chiefly in gold dust; and being -anxious to proceed as quickly as possible, I begged Daucari to use -his interest with the king to allow me a guide by the way of -Fooladoo, as I was informed that the war had already commenced -between the kings of Bambarra and Kaarta. Daucari accordingly set -out for Kooniakary on the morning of the 20th, and the same evening -returned with the king's answer, which was to this purpose--that the -king had, many years ago, made an agreement with Daisy, king of -Kaarta, to send all merchants and travellers through his dominions; -but that if I wished to take the route through Fooladoo I had his -permission so to do; though he could not, consistently with his -agreement, lend me a guide. Having felt the want of regal -protection in a former part of my journey, I was unwilling to hazard -a repetition of the hardships I had then experienced, especially as -the money I had received was probably the last supply that I should -obtain. I therefore determined to wait for the return of the -messengers from Kaarta. - -In the interim it began to be whispered abroad that I had received -plenty of gold from Salim Daucari, and, on the morning of the 23rd, -Sambo Sego paid me a visit, with a party of horsemen. He insisted -upon knowing the exact amount of the money I had obtained, declaring -that whatever the sum was, one-half of it must go to the king; -besides which he intimated that he expected a handsome present for -himself, as being the king's son, and for his attendants, as being -the king's relations. I prepared to submit; and if Salim Daucari -had not interposed all my endeavours to mitigate this oppressive -claim would have been of no avail. Salim at last prevailed upon -Sambo to accept sixteen bars of European merchandise, and some -powder and ball, as a complete payment of every demand that could be -made upon me in the kingdom of Kasson. - -January 26.--In the forenoon I went to the top of a high hill to the -southward of Soolo, where I had a most enchanting prospect of the -country. The number of towns and villages, and the extensive -cultivation around them, surpassed everything I had yet seen in -Africa. A gross calculation may be formed of the number of -inhabitants in this delightful plain by considering that the king of -Kasson can raise four thousand fighting men by the sound of his war- -drum. In traversing the rocky eminences of this hill, which are -almost destitute of vegetation, I observed a number of large holes -in the crevasses and fissures of the rocks, where the wolves and -hyaenas take refuge during the day. - -February 1.--The messengers arrived from Kaarta, and brought -intelligence that the war had not yet commenced between Bambarra and -Kaarta, and that I might probably pass through Kaarta before the -Bambarra army invaded that country. - -February 3.--Early in the morning two guides on horseback came from -Kooniakary to conduct me to the frontiers of Kaarta. I accordingly -took leave of Salim Daucari, and parted for the last time from my -fellow-traveller the blacksmith, whose kind solicitude for my -welfare had been so conspicuous, and about ten o'clock departed from -Soolo. We travelled this day through a rocky and hilly country, -along the banks of the river Krieko, and at sunset came to the -village of Soomo, where we slept. - -February 4.--We departed from Soomo, and continued our route along -the banks of the Krieko, which are everywhere well cultivated, and -swarm with inhabitants. At this time they were increased by the -number of people that had flown thither from Kaarta on account of -the Bambarra war. In the afternoon we reached Kimo, a large -village, the residence of Madi Konko, governor of the hilly country -of Kasson, which is called Sorroma. From hence the guides appointed -by the king of Kasson returned, to join in the expedition against -Kajaaga; and I waited until the 6th before I could prevail on Madi -Konko to appoint me a guide to Kaarta. - -February 7.--Departing from Kimo, with Madi Konko's son as a guide, -we continued our course along the banks of the Krieko until the -afternoon, when we arrived at Kangee, a considerable town. The -Krieko is here but a small rivulet. This beautiful stream takes its -rise a little to the eastward of this town, and descends with a -rapid and noisy current until it reaches the bottom of the high hill -called Tappa, where it becomes more placid, and winds gently through -the lovely plains of Kooniakary; after which, having received an -additional branch from the north, it is lost in the Senegal, -somewhere near the falls of Felow. - -February 8.--This day we travelled over a rough stony country, and -having passed Seimpo and a number of other villages, arrived in the -afternoon at Lackarago, a small village which stands upon the ridge -of hills that separates the kingdoms of Kasson and Kaarta. In the -course of the day we passed many hundreds of people flying from -Kaarta with their families and effects. - -February 9.--Early in the morning we departed from Lackarago, and a -little to the eastward came to the brow of a hill from whence we had -an extensive view of the country. Towards the south-east were -perceived some very distant hills, which our guide told us were the -mountains of Fooladoo. We travelled with great difficulty down a -stony and abrupt precipice, and continued our way in the bed of a -dry river course, where the trees, meeting overhead, made the place -dark and cool. In a little time we reached the bottom of this -romantic glen, and about ten o'clock emerged from between two rocky -hills, and found ourselves on the level and sandy plains of Kaarta. -At noon we arrived at a korree, or watering place, where for a few -strings of beads I purchased as much milk and corn-meal as we could -eat; indeed, provisions are here so cheap, and the shepherds live in -such affluence, that they seldom ask any return for what -refreshments a traveller receives from them. From this korree we -reached Feesurah at sunset, where we took up our lodging for the -night. - -February 10.--We continued at Feesurah all this day, to have a few -clothes washed, and learn more exactly the situation of affairs -before we ventured towards the capital. - -February 11--Our landlord, taking advantage of the unsettled state -of the country, demanded so extravagant a sum for our lodging that, -suspecting he wished for an opportunity to quarrel with us, I -refused to submit to his exorbitant demand; but my attendants were -so much frightened at the reports of approaching war that they -refused to proceed any farther unless I could settle matters with -him, and induce him to accompany us to Kemoo, for our protection on -the road. This I accomplished with some difficulty; and by a -present of a blanket which I had brought with me to sleep in, and -for which our landlord had conceived a very great liking, matters -were at length amicably adjusted, and he mounted his horse and led -the way. He was one of those negroes who, together with the -ceremonial part of the Mohammedan religion, retain all their ancient -superstitions, and even drink strong liquors. They are called -Johars, or Jowars, and in this kingdom form a very numerous and -powerful tribe. We had no sooner got into a dark need lonely part -of the first wood than he made a sign for us to stop, and, taking -hold of a hollow piece of bamboo that hung as an amulet round his -neck, whistled very loud there times. I confess I was somewhat -startled, thinking it was a signal for some of his companions to -come and attack us; but he assured me that it was done merely with a -view to ascertain what success we were likely to meet with on our -present journey. He then dismounted, laid his spear across the -road, and having said a number of short prayers, concluded with -three loud whistles; after which he listened for some time, as if in -expectation of an answer, and receiving none, told us we might -proceed without fear, for there was no danger. About noon we passed -a number of large villages quite deserted, the inhabitants having -fled into Kasson to avoid the horrors of war. We reached Karankalla -at sunset. This formerly was a large town, but having been -plundered by the Bambarrans about four years ago, nearly one-half of -it is still in ruins. - -February 12.--At daylight we departed from Karankalla, and as it was -but a short day's journey to Kemmoo, we travelled slower than usual, -and amused ourselves by collecting such eatable fruits as grew near -the road-side. About noon we saw at a distance the capital of -Kaarta, situated in the middle of an open plain--the country for two -miles round being cleared of wood, by the great consumption of that -article for building and fuel--and we entered the town about two -o'clock in the afternoon. - -We proceeded without stopping to the court before the king's -residence; but I was so completely surrounded by the gazing -multitude that I did not attempt to dismount, but sent in the -landlord and Madi Konki's son, to acquaint the king of my arrival. -In a little time they returned, accompanied by a messenger from the -king, signifying that he would see me in the evening; and in the -meantime the messenger had orders to procure me a lodging and see -that the crowd did not molest me. He conducted me into a court, at -the door of which he stationed a man with a stick in his hand to -keep off the mob, and then showed me a large hut in which I was to -lodge. I had scarcely seated myself in this spacious apartment when -the mob entered; it was found impossible to keep them out, and I was -surrounded by as many as the hut could contain. When the first -party, however, had seen me, and asked a few questions, they retired -to make room for another company; and in this manner the hut was -filled and emptied thirteen different times. - -A little before sunset the king sent to inform me that he was at -leisure, and wished to see me. I followed the messenger through a -number of courts surrounded with high walls, where I observed plenty -of dry grass, bundled up like hay, to fodder the horses, in case the -town should be invested. On entering the court in which the king -was sitting I was astonished at the number of his attendants, and at -the good order that seemed to prevail among them; they were all -seated--the fighting men on the king's right hand and the women and -children on the left, leaving a space between them for my passage. -The king, whose name was Daisy Koorabarri, was not to be -distinguished from his subjects by any superiority in point of -dress; a bank of earth, about two feet high, upon which was spread a -leopard's skin, constituted the only mark of royal dignity. When I -had seated myself upon the ground before him, and related the -various circumstances that had induced me to pass through his -country, and my reasons for soliciting his protections, he appeared -perfectly satisfied; but said it was not in his power at present to -afford me much assistance, for that all sort of communication -between Kaarta and Bambarra had been interrupted for some time past; -and as Mansong, the king of Bambarra, with his army, had entered -Fooladoo in his way to Kaarta, there was but little hope of my -reaching Bambarra by any of the usual routes, inasmuch as, coming -from an enemy's country, I should certainly be plundered, or taken -for a spy. If his country had been at peace, he said, I might have -remained with him until a more favourable opportunity offered; but, -as matters stood at present, he did not wish me to continue in -Kaarta, for fear some accident should befall me, in which case my -countrymen might say that he had murdered a white man. He would -therefore advise me to return into Kasson, and remain there until -the war should terminate, which would probably happen in the course -of three or four months, after which, if he was alive, he said, he -would be glad to see me, and if he was dead his sons would take care -of me. - -This advice was certainly well meant on the part of the king, and -perhaps I was to blame in not following it; but I reflected that the -hot months were approaching, and I dreaded the thoughts of spending -the rainy season in the interior of Africa. These considerations, -and the aversion I felt at the idea of returning without having made -a greater progress in discovery, made sue determine to go forward; -and though the king could not give me a guide to Bambarra, I begged -that he would allow a man to accompany me as near the frontiers of -his kingdom as was consistent with safety. Finding that I was -determined to proceed, the king told me that one route still -remained, but that, he said, was by no means free from danger--which -was to go from Kaarta into the Moorish kingdom of Ludamar, from -whence I might pass by a circuitous route into Bambarra. If I -wished to follow this route he would appoint people to conduct me to -Jarra, the frontier town of Ludamar. He then inquired very -particularly how I had been treated since I had left the Gambia, and -asked, in a jocular way, how many slaves I expected to carry home -with me on my return. He was about to proceed when a man mounted on -a fine Moorish horse, which was covered with sweat and foam, entered -the court, and signifying that he had something of importance to -communicate, the king immediately took up his sandals, which is the -signal to strangers to retire. I accordingly took leave, but -desired my boy to stay about the place, in order to learn something -of the intelligence that this messenger had brought. In about an -hour the boy returned, and informed me that the Bambarra army had -left Fooladoo, and was on its march towards Kaarta; that the man I -had seen, who had brought this intelligence, was one of the scouts, -or watchmen, employed by the king, each of whom has his particular -station (commonly on some rising ground) from whence he has the best -view of the country, and watches the motions of the enemy. - -February 13.--At daylight I sent my horse-pistols and holsters as a -present to the king, and being very desirous to get away from a -place which was likely soon to become the seat of war, I begged the -messenger to inform the king that I wished to depart from Kemmoo as -soon as he should find it convenient to appoint me a guide. In -about an hour the king sent his messenger to thank me for the -present, and eight horsemen to conduct me to Jarra. They told me -that the king wished me to proceed to Jarra with all possible -expedition, that they might return before anything decisive should -happen between the armies of Bambarra need Kaarta. We accordingly -departed forthwith from Kemmoo, accompanied by three of Daisy's -sons, and about two hundred horsemen, who kindly undertook to see me -a little way on my journey. - - - -CHAPTER VIII--ADVENTURES BETWEEN KEMMOO AND JARRA - - - -On the evening of the day of our departure from Kemmoo (the king's -eldest son and great part of the horsemen having returned) we -reached a village called Marina, where we slept. During the night -some thieves broke into the hut where I had deposited my baggage, -and having cut open one of my bundles, stole a quantity of beads, -part of my clothes, and some amber and gold, which happened to be in -one of the pockets. I complained to my protectors, but without -effect. The next day (February 14th) was far advanced before we -departed from Marina, and we travelled slowly, on account of the -excessive heat, until four o'clock in the afternoon, when two -negroes were observed sitting among some thorny bushes, at a little -distance from the road. The king's people, taking it for granted -that they were runaway slaves, cocked their muskets, and rode at -full speed in different directions through the bushes, in order to -surround them, and prevent their escaping. The negroes, however, -waited with great composure until we came within bowshot of them, -when each of them took from his quiver a handful of arrows, and -putting two between his teeth and one in his bow, waved to us with -his hand to keep at a distance; upon which one of the king's people -called out to the strangers to give some account of themselves. -They said that "they were natives of Toorda, a neighbouring village, -and had come to that place to gather tomberongs." These are small -farinaceous berries, of a yellow colour and delicious taste, which I -knew to be the fruit of the rhamnus lotus of Linnaeus. - -The lotus is very common in all the kingdoms which I visited; but is -found in the greatest plenty on the sandy soil of Kaarta, Ludamar, -and the northern parts of Bambarra, where it is one of the most -common shrubs of the country. I had observed the same species at -Gambia. - -As this shrub is found in Tunis, and also in the negro kingdoms, and -as it furnishes the natives of the latter with a food resembling -bread, and also with a sweet liquor which is much relished by them, -there can be little doubt of its being the lotus mentioned by Pliny -as the food of the Libyan Lotophagi. An army may very well have -been fed with the bread I have tasted, made of the meal of the -fruit, as is said by Pliny to have been done in Libya; and as the -taste of the bread is sweet and agreeable, it is not likely that the -soldiers would complain of it. - -We arrived in the evening at the village of Toorda; when all the -rest of the king's people turned back except two, who remained with -me as guides to Jarra. - -February 15.--I departed from Toorda, and about two o'clock came to -a considerable town, called Funingkedy. As we approached the town -the inhabitants were much alarmed; for, as one of my guides wore a -turban, they mistook us for some Moorish banditti. This -misapprehension was soon cleared up, and we were well received by a -Gambia slatee, who resides at this town, and at whose house we -lodged. - -February 16.--We were informed that a number of people would go from -this town to Jarra on the day following; and as the road was much -infested by the Moors we resolved to stay and accompany the -travellers. - -About two o'clock, as I was lying asleep upon a bullock's hide -behind the door of the hut, I was awakened by the screams of women, -and a general clamour and confusion among the inhabitants. At first -I suspected that the Bambarrans had actually entered the town; but -observing my boy upon the top of one of the huts, I called to him to -know what was the matter. He informed me that the Moors were come a -second time to steal the cattle, and that they were now close to the -town. I mounted the roof of the hut, and observed a large herd of -bullocks coming towards the town, followed by five Moors on -horseback, who drove the cattle forward with their muskets. When -they had reached the wells which are close to the town, the Moors -selected from the herd sixteen of the finest beasts, and drove them -off at full cell gallop. During this transaction the townspeople, -to the number of five hundred, stood collected close to the walls of -the town; and when the Moors drove the cattle away, though they -passed within pistol-shot of them, the inhabitants scarcely made a -show of resistance. I only saw four muskets fired, which, being -loaded with gunpowder of the negroes' own manufacture, did no -execution. Shortly after this I observed a number of people -supporting a young man on horseback, and conducting him slowly -towards the town. This was one of the herdsmen, who, attempting to -throw his spear, had been wounded by a shot from one of the Moors. -His mother walked on before, quite frantic with grief, clapping her -hands, and enumerating the good qualities of her son. "Ee maffo -fenio!" ("He never told a lie!") said the disconsolate mother as -her wounded son was carried in at the gate--"Ee maffo fonio abada!" -("He never told a lie; no, never!") When they had conveyed him to -his hut, and laid him upon a mat, all the spectators joined in -lamenting his fate, by screaming and howling in the most piteous -manner. - -After their grief had subsided a little, I was desired to examine -the wound. I found that the ball had passed quite through his leg, -having fractured both bones a little below the knee: the poor boy -was faint from the loss of blood, and his situation withal so very -precarious, that I could not console his relations with any great -hopes of his recovery. However, to give him a possible chance, I -observed to them that it was necessary to cut off his leg above the -knee. This proposal made every one start with horror; they had -never heard of such a method of cure, and would by no means give -their consent to it; indeed, they evidently considered me a sort of -cannibal for proposing so cruel and unheard-of an operation, which, -in their opinion, would be attended with more pain and danger than -the wound itself. The patient was therefore committed to the care -of some old bashreens, who endeavoured to secure him a passage into -paradise by whispering in his ear some Arabic sentences, and -desiring him to repeat them. After many unsuccessful attempts, the -poor heathen at last pronounced, "La illah el Allah, Mahamet rasowl -allahi" ("There is but one God, and Mohammed is his Prophet"); and -the disciples of the Prophet assured his mother that her son had -given sufficient evidence of his faith, and would be happy in a -future state. He died the same evening. - -February 17.--My guides informed me that in order to avoid the -Moorish banditti it was necessary to travel in the night; we -accordingly departed from Funingkedy in the afternoon, accompanied -by about thirty people, carrying their effects with them into -Ludamar, for fear of the war. We travelled with great silence and -expedition until midnight, when we stopped in a sort of enclosure, -near a small village; but the thermometer being so low as 68 -degrees, none of the negroes could sleep on account of the cold. - -At daybreak on the 18th we resumed our journey, and at eight o'clock -passed Simbing, the frontier village of Ludamar, situated on a -narrow pass between two rocky hills, and surrounded with a high -wall. From this village Major Houghton (being deserted by his negro -servants, who refused to follow him into the Moorish country) wrote -his last letter with a pencil to Dr. Laidley. This brave but -unfortunate man, heaving surmounted many difficulties, had taken a -northerly direction, had endeavoured to pass through the kingdom of -Ludamar, where I afterwards learned the following particulars -concerning his melancholy fate:- On his arrival at Jarra he got -acquainted with certain Moorish merchants who were travelling to -Tisheet (a place near the salt pits in the Great Desert, ten days' -journey to the northward) to purchase salt; and the Major, at the -expense of a musket and some tobacco, engaged them to convey him -thither. It is impossible to form any other opinion on this -determination than that the Moors intentionally deceived him, either -with regard to the route that he wished to pursue, or the state of -the intermediate country between Jarra and Timbuctoo. Their -intention probably was to rob and leave him in the desert. At the -end of two days he suspected their treachery, and insisted on -returning to Jarra. Finding him persist in this determination, the -Moors robbed him of everything he possessed, and went off with their -camels; the poor Major being thus deserted, returned on foot to a -watering-place in possession of the Moors, called Tarra. He had -been some days without food, and the unfeeling Moors refusing to -give him any, he sank at last under his distresses. Whether he -actually perished of hunger, or was murdered outright by the savage -Mohammedans, is not certainly known; his body was dragged into the -woods, and I was shown at a distance the spot where his remains were -left to perish. - -About four miles to the north of Simbing we came to a small stream -of water, where we observed a number of wild horses they were all of -one colour, and galloped away from us at an easy rate, frequently -stopping and looking back. The negroes hunt them for food, and -their flesh is much esteemed. - -About noon we arrived at Jarra, a large town situated at the bottom -of some rocky hills. - - - -CHAPTER IX--THE TOWN OF JARRA--DETAINED BY THE MOORS. - - - -The town of Jarra is of considerable extent; the houses are built of -clay and stone intermixed--the clay answering the purpose of mortar. -It is situated in the Moorish kingdom of Ludamar; but the major part -of the inhabitants are negroes, from the borders of the southern -states, who prefer a precarious protection under the Moors, which -they purchase by a tribute, rather than continue exposed to their -predatory hostilities. The tribute they pay is considerable; and -they manifest towards their Moorish superiors the most unlimited -obedience and submission, and are treated by them with the utmost -indignity and contempt. The Moors of this and the other states -adjoining the country of the negroes resemble in their persons the -mulattoes of the West Indies to so great a degree as not easily to -be distinguished from them; and, in truth, the present generation -seem to be a mixed race between the Moors (properly so called) of -the north and the negroes of the south, possessing many of the worst -qualities of both nations. - -Of the origin of these Moorish tribes, as distinguished from the -inhabitants of Barbary, from whom they are divided by the Great -Desert, nothing further seems to be known than what is related by -John Leo, the African, whose account may be abridged as follows:- - -Before the Arabian conquest, about the middle of the seventh -century, all the inhabitants of Africa, whether they were descended -from Numidians, Phoenicians, Carthaginians, Romans, Vandals, or -Goths, were comprehended under the general name of Mauri, or Moors. -All these nations were converted to the religion of Mohammed during -the Arabian empire under the Kaliphs. About this time many of the -Numidian tribes, who led a wandering life in the desert, and -supported themselves upon the produce of their cattle, retired -southward across the Great Desert to avoid the fury of the Arabians; -and by one of those tribes, says Leo (that of Zanhaga), were -discovered, and conquered, the negro nations on the Niger. By the -Niger is here undoubtedly meant the river of Senegal, which in the -Mandingo language is Bafing, or the Black River. - -To what extent these people are now spread over the African -continent it is difficult to ascertain. There is reason to believe -that their dominion stretches from west to east, in a narrow line or -belt, from the mouth of the Senegal (on the northern side of that -river) to the confines of Abyssinia. They are a subtle and -treacherous race of people, and take every opportunity of cheating -and plundering the credulous and unsuspecting negroes. But their -manners and general habits of life will be best explained as -incidents occur in the course of my narrative. - -The difficulties we had already encountered, the unsettled state of -the country, and, above all, the savage and overbearing deportment -of the Moors, had so completely frightened my attendants that they -declared they would rather relinquish every claim to reward than -proceed one step farther to the eastward. Indeed, the danger they -incurred of being seized by the Moors, and sold into slavery, became -every day more apparent; and I could not condemn their -apprehensions. In this situation, deserted by my attendants, and -reflecting that my retreat was cut off by the war behind me, and -that a Moorish country of ten days' journey lay before me, I applied -to Daman to obtain permission from Ali, the chief or sovereign of -Ludamar, that I might pass through his country unmolested into -Bambarra; and I hired one of Daman's slaves to accompany me thither, -as soon as such permission should be obtained. A messenger was -despatched to Ali, who at this time was encamped near Benowm; and as -a present was necessary in order to insure success, I sent him five -garments of cotton cloth, which I purchased of Daman for one of my -fowling-pieces. Fourteen days elapsed in settling this affair; but -on the evening of the 26th of February, one of Ali's slaves arrived -with directions, as he pretended, to conduct me in safety as far as -Goomba, and told me I was to pay him one garment of blue cotton -cloth for his attendance. My faithful boy, observing that I was -about to proceed without him, resolved to accompany me; and told me, -that though he wished me to turn back, he never entertained any -serious thoughts of deserting me, but had been advised to it by -Johnson, with a view to induce me to turn immediately for Gambia. - -February 27.--I delivered most of my papers to Johnson, to convey -them to Gambia as soon as possible, reserving a duplicate for myself -in case of accidents. I likewise left in Daman's possession a -bundle of clothes, and other things that were not absolutely -necessary, for I wished to diminish my baggage as much as possible, -that the Moors might have fewer inducements to plunder us. - -Things being thus adjusted, we departed from Jarra in the forenoon, -and slept at Troomgoomba, a small walled village, inhabited by a -mixture of negroes and Moors. On the day following (February 28th) -we reached Quira; and on the 29th, after a toilsome journey over a -sandy country, we came to Compe, a watering-place belonging to the -Moors; from whence, on the morning following, we proceeded to Deena, -a large town, and, like Jarra, built of stone and clay. The Moors -are here in greater proportion to the negroes than at Jarra. They -assembled round the hut of the negro where I lodged, and treated me -with the greatest insolence; they hissed, shouted, and abused me; -they even spat in my face, with a view to irritate me, and afford -them a pretext for seizing my baggage. But finding such insults had -not the desired effect, they had recourse to the final and decisive -argument, that I was a Christian, and of course that my property was -lawful plunder to the followers of Mohammed. They accordingly -opened my bundles, and robbed me of everything they fancied. My -attendants, finding that everybody could rob me with impunity, -insisted on returning to Jarra. - -The day following (March 2nd), I endeavoured, by all the means in my -power, to prevail upon my people to go on, but they still continued -obstinate; and having reason to fear some further insult from the -fanatic Moors, I resolved to proceed alone. Accordingly, the next -morning, about two o'clock, I departed from Deena. It was -moonlight, but the roaring of the wild beasts made it necessary to -proceed with caution. - -When I had reached a piece of rising ground about half a mile from -the town, I heard somebody halloo, and, looking back, saw my -faithful boy running after me. He informed me that Ali's men had -gone back to Benowm, and that Daman's negro was about to depart for -Jarra; but he said he had no doubt, if I would stop a little, that -he could persuade the latter to accompany us. I waited accordingly, -and in about an hour the boy returned with the negro; and we -continued travelling over a sandy country, covered chiefly with the -Asclepias gigantea, until mid-day, when we came to a number of -deserted huts; and seeing some appearances of water at a little -distance, I sent the boy to fill a soofroo; but as he was examining -the place for water, the roaring of a lion, that was probably on the -same pursuit, induced the frightened boy to return in haste, and we -submitted patiently to the disappointment. In the afternoon we -reached a town inhabited chiefly by Foulahs, called Samaming-koos. - -Next morning (March 4th), we set out for Sampaka, which place we -reached about two o'clock. On the road we observed immense -quantities of locusts; the trees were quite black with them. - -Sampaka is a large town, and when the Moors and Bambarrans were at -war was thrice attacked by the former; but they were driven off with -great loss, though the king of Bambarra was afterwards obliged to -give up this, and all the other towns as far as Goomba, in order to -obtain a peace. Here I lodged at the house of a negro who practised -the art of making gunpowder. He showed me a bag of nitre, very -white, but the crystals were much smaller than common. They procure -it in considerable quantities from the ponds, which are filled in -the rainy season, and to which the cattle resort for coolness during -the heat of the day. When the water is evaporated, a white -efflorescence is observed on the mud, which the natives collect and -purify in such a manner as to answer their purpose. The Moors -supply them with sulphur from the Mediterranean; and the process is -completed by pounding the different articles together in a wooden -mortar. The grains are very unequal, and the sound of its explosion -is by no means so sharp as that produced by European gunpowder. - -March 5.--We departed from Sampaka at daylight. About noon we -stopped a little at a village called Dangali, and in the evening -arrived at Dalli. We saw upon the road two large herds of camels -feeding. When the Moors turn their camels to feed they tie up one -of their fore-legs to prevent their straying. This happened to be a -feast-day at Dalli, and the people were dancing before the dooty's -house. But when they were informed that a white man was come into -the town they left off dancing and came to the place where I lodged, -walking in regular order, two and two, with the music before them. -They play upon a sort of flute; but instead of blowing into a hole -in the side they blow obliquely over the end, which is half shut by -a thin piece of wood; they govern the holes on the side with their -fingers, and play some simple and very plaintive airs. They -continued to dance and sing until midnight, during which time I was -surrounded by so great a crowd as made it necessary for me to -satisfy their curiosity by sitting still. - -March 6.--We stopped here this morning because some of the -townspeople, who were going for Goomba on the day following, wished -to accompany us; but in order to avoid the crowd of people which -usually assembled in the evening we went to a negro village to the -east of Dalli, called Samee, where we were kindly received by the -hospitable dooty, who on this occasion killed two fine sheep, and -invited his friends to come and feast with him. - -March 7.--Our landlord was so proud of the honour of entertaining a -white man that he insisted on my staying with him and his friends -until the cool of the evening, when he said he would conduct me to -the next village. As I was now within two days' journey of Goomba, -I had no apprehensions from the Moors, and readily accepted the -invitation. I spent the forenoon very pleasantly with these poor -negroes; their company was the more acceptable, as the gentleness of -their manners presented a striking contrast to the rudeness and -barbarity of the Moors. They enlivened their conversation by -drinking a fermented liquor made from corn--the same sort of beer -that I have described in a former chapter; and better I never tasted -in Great Britain. - -In the midst of this harmless festivity, I flattered myself that all -danger from the Moors was over. Fancy had already placed me on the -banks of the Niger, and presented to my imagination a thousand -delightful scenes in my future progress, when a party of Moors -unexpectedly entered the hut, and dispelled the golden dream. They -came, they said, by Ali's orders, to convey me to his camp at -Benowm. If I went peaceably, they told me, I had nothing to fear; -but if I refused they had orders to bring me by force. I was struck -dumb by surprise and terror, which the Moors observing endeavoured -to calm my apprehensions by repeating the assurance that I had -nothing to fear. Their visit, they added, was occasioned by the -curiosity of Ali's wife Fatima, who had heard so much about -Christians that she was very anxious to see one: as soon as her -curiosity should be satisfied, they had no doubt, they said, that -Ali would give me a handsome present, and send a person to conduct -me to Bambarra. Finding entreaty and resistance equally fruitless, -I prepared to follow the messengers, and took leave of my landlord -and his company with great reluctance. Accompanied by my faithful -boy (for Daman's slave made his escape on seeing the Moors), we -reached Dalli in the evening, where we were strictly watched by the -Moors during the night. - -March 8.--We were conducted by a circuitous path through the woods -to Dangali, where we slept. - -March 9.--We continued our journey, and in the afternoon arrived at -Sampaka. - -Next morning (March 10th) we set out for Samaming-koos. On the road -we overtook a woman and two boys with an ass; she informed us that -she was going for Bambarra, but had been stopped on the road by a -party of Moors, who had taken most of her clothes and some gold from -her; and that she would be under the necessity of returning to Deena -till the fast moon was over. The same even the new moon was seen -which ushered in the month Ramadan. Large fires were made in -different parts of the town, and a greater quantity of victuals than -usual dressed upon the occasion. - -March 11.--By daylight the Moors were in readiness; but as I had -suffered much from thirst on the road I made my boy fill a soofroo -of water for my own use, for the Moors assured me that they should -not taste either meat or drink until sunset. However, I found that -the excessive heat of the sun, and the dust we raised in travelling, -overcame their scruples, and made my soofroo a very useful part of -our baggage. On our arrival at Deena, I went to pay my respects to -one of Ali's sons. I found him sitting in a low hut, with five or -six more of his companions, washing their hands and feet, and -frequently taking water into their mouths, gargling and spitting it -out again. I was no sooner seated than he handed me a double- -barrelled gun, and told me to dye the stock of a blue colour, and -repair one of the locks. I found great difficulty in persuading him -that I knew nothing about the matter. "However," says he, "if you -cannot repair the gun, you shall give me some knives and scissors -immediately;" and when my boy, who acted as interpreter, assured him -that I had no such articles, he hastily snatched up a musket that -stood by him, cocked it, and putting the muzzle close to the boy's -ear, would certainly have shot him dead upon the spot had not the -Moors wrested the musket from him, and made signs for us to retreat. - -March 12.--We departed from Deena towards Benowm, and about nine -o'clock came to a korree, whence the Moors were preparing to depart -to the southward, on account of the scarcity of water; here we -filled our soofroo, and continued our journey over a hot sandy -country, covered with small stunted shrubs, until about one o'clock, -when the heat of the sun obliged us to stop. But our water being -expended, we could not prudently remain longer than a few minutes to -collect a little gum, which is an excellent succedaneum for water, -as it keeps the mouth moist, and allays for a time the pain in the -throat. - -About five o'clock we came in sight of Benowm, the residence of Ali. -It presented to the eye a great number of dirty-looking tents, -scattered without order over a large space of ground; and among the -tents appeared large herds of camels, cattle, and goats. We reached -the skirts of this camp a little before sunset, and, with much -entreaty, procured a little water. My arrival was no sooner -observed than the people who drew water at the wells threw down -their buckets; those in the tents mounted their horses, and men, -women, and children, came running or galloping towards me. I soon -found myself surrounded by such a crowd that I could scarcely move; -one pulled my clothes, another took off my hat, a third stopped me -to examine my waistcoat-buttons, and a fourth called out, "La illah -el Allah, Mahamet rasowl allahi"--("There is but one God, and -Mohammed is his Prophet")--and signified, in a threatening manner, -that I must repeat those words. We reached at length the king's -tent, where we found a great number of people, men and women, -assembled. Ali was sitting upon a black leather cushion, clipping a -few hairs from his upper lip, a female attendant holding up a -looking-glass before him. He appeared to be an old man of the Arab -cast, with a long white beard; and he had a sullen and indignant -aspect. He surveyed me with attention, and inquired of the Moors if -I could speak Arabic. Being answered in the negative, he appeared -much surprised, and continued silent. The surrounding attendants, -and especially the ladies, were abundantly more inquisitive: they -asked a thousand questions, inspected every part of my apparel, -searched my pockets, and obliged me to unbutton my waistcoat, and -display the whiteness of my skin; they even counted my toes and -fingers, as if they doubted whether I was in truth a human being. -In a little time the priest announced evening prayers; but before -the people departed, the Moor who had acted as interpreter informed -me that Ali was about to present me with something to eat; and -looking round, I observed some boys bringing a wild hog, which they -tied to one of the tent strings, and Ali made signs to me to kill -and dress it for supper. Though I was very hungry, I did not think -it prudent to eat any part of an animal so much detested by the -Moors, and therefore told him that I never ate such food. They then -untied the hog, in hopes that it would run immediately at me--for -they believe that a great enmity subsists between hogs and -Christians--but in this they were disappointed, for the animal no -sooner regained his liberty than he began to attack indiscriminately -every person that came in his way, and at last took shelter under -the couch upon which the king was sitting. The assembly being thus -dissolved, I was conducted to the tent of Ali's chief slave, but was -not permitted to enter, nor allowed to touch anything belonging to -it. I requested something to eat, and a little boiled corn, with -salt and water, was at length sent me in a wooden bowl; and a mat -was spread upon the sand before the tent, on which I passed the -night, surrounded by the curious multitude. - -At sunrise, Ali, with a few attendants, came on horseback to visit -me, and signified that he had provided a hut for me, where I would -be sheltered from the sun. I was accordingly conducted thither, and -found the hut comparatively cool and pleasant. - -I was no sooner seated in this my new habitation than the Moors -assembled in crowds to behold me; but I found it rather a -troublesome levee, for I was obliged to take off one of my -stockings, and show them my foot, and even to take off my jacket and -waistcoat, to show them how my clothes were put on and off; they -were much delighted with the curious contrivance of buttons. All -this was to be repeated to every succeeding visitor; for such as had -already seen these wonders insisted on their friends seeing the -same; and in this manner I was employed, dressing and undressing, -buttoning and unbuttoning, from noon till night. About eight -o'clock, Ali sent me for supper some kouskous and salt and water, -which was very acceptable, being the only victuals I had tasted -since morning. - -I observed that in the night the Moors kept regular watch, and -frequently looked into the hut to see if I was asleep; and if it was -quite dark, they would light a wisp of grass. About two o'clock in -the morning a Moor entered the hut, probably with a view to steal -something, or perhaps to murder me; and groping about he laid his -hand upon my shoulder. As night visitors were at best but -suspicious characters, I sprang up the moment he laid his hand upon -me; and the Moor, in his haste to get off, stumbled over my boy, and -fell with his face upon the wild hog, which returned the attack by -biting the Moor's arm. The screams of this man alarmed the people -in the king's tent, who immediately conjectured that I had made my -escape, and a number of them mounted their horses, and prepared to -pursue me. I observed upon this occasion that Ali did not sleep in -his own tent, but came galloping upon a white horse from a small -tent at a considerable distance; indeed, the tyrannical and cruel -behaviour of this man made him so jealous of every person around him -that even his own slaves and domestics knew not where he slept. -When the Moors had explained to him the cause of this outcry they -all went away, and I was permitted to sleep quietly until morning. - -March 13.--With the returning day commenced the same round of insult -and irritation--the boys assembled to beat the hog, and the men and -women to plague the Christian. It is impossible for me to describe -the behaviour of a people who study mischief as a science, and exult -in the miseries and misfortunes of their fellow-creatures. - - - -CHAPTER X--A MOORISH WEDDING - - - -The Moors, though very indolent themselves, are rigid task-masters, -and keep every person under them in full employment. My boy Demba -was sent to the woods to collect withered grass for Ali's horses; -and after a variety of projects concerning myself, they at last -found out an employment for me: this was no other than the -respectable office of barber. I was to make my first exhibition in -this capacity in the royal presence, and to be honoured with the -task of shaving the head of the young prince of Ludamar. I -accordingly seated myself upon the sand, and the boy, with some -hesitation, sat down beside me. A small razor, about three inclines -long, was put into my hand, and I was ordered to proceed; but -whether from my own want of skill, or the improper shape of the -instrument, I unfortunately made a slight incision in the boy's head -at the very commencement of the operation; and the king, observing -the awkward manner in which I held the razor, concluded that his -son's head was in very improper hands, and ordered me to resign the -razor and walk out of the tent. This I considered as a very -fortunate circumstance; for I had laid it down as a rule to make -myself as useless and insignificant as possible, as the only means -of recovering my liberty. - -March 18.--Four Moors arrived from Jarra with Johnson my -interpreter, having seized him before he had received any intimation -of my confinement, and bringing with them a bundle of clothes that I -had left at Daman Jumma's house, for my use in case I should return -by the way of Jarra. Johnson was led into Ali's tent and examined; -the bundle was opened, and I was sent for to explain the use of the -different articles. I was happy, however, to find that Johnson had -committed my papers to the charge of one of Daman's wives. When I -had satisfied Ali's curiosity respecting the different articles of -apparel the bundle was again tied up, and put into a large cow-skin -bag that stood in a corner of the tent. The same evening Ali sent -three of his people to inform me that there were many thieves in the -neighbourhood, and that to prevent the rest of my things from being -stolen it was necessary to convey them all into his tent. My -clothes, instruments, and everything that belonged to me, were -accordingly carried away; and though the heat and dust made clean -linen very necessary and refreshing, I could not procure a single -shirt out of the small stock I had brought along with me. Ali was, -however, disappointed by not finding among my effects the quantity -of gold and amber that he expected; but to make sure of everything -he sent the same people, on the morning following, to examine -whether I had anything concealed about my person. They, with their -usual rudeness, searched every part of my apparel, and stripped me -of all my gold, amber, my watch, and one of my pocket-compasses; I -had, fortunately, in the night, buried the other compass in the -sand--and this, with the clothes I had on, was all that the tyranny -of Ali had now left me. - -The gold and amber were highly gratifying to Moorish avarice, but -the pocket-compass soon became an object of superstitious curiosity. -Ali was very desirous to be informed why that small piece of iron, -the needle, always pointed to the Great Desert; and I found myself -somewhat puzzled to answer the question. To have pleaded my -ignorance would have created a suspicion that I wished to conceal -the real truth from him; I therefore told him that my mother resided -far beyond the sands of Sahara, and that whilst she was alive the -piece of iron would always point that way, and serve as a guide to -conduct me to her, and that if she was dead it would point to her -grave. Ali now looked at the compass with redoubled amazement; -turned it round and round repeatedly; but observing that it always -pointed the same way, he took it up with great caution and returned -it to me, manifesting that he thought there was something of magic -in it, and that he was afraid of keeping so dangerous an instrument -in his possession. - -March 20.--This morning a council of chief men was held in Ali's -tent respecting me. Their decisions, though they were all -unfavourable to me, were differently related by different persons. -Some said that they intended to put me to death; others that I was -only to lose my right hand; but the most probable account was that -which I received from Ali's own son, a boy about nine years of age, -who came to me in the evening, and, with much concern, informed me -that his uncle had persuaded his father to put out my eyes, which -they said resembled those of a cat, and that all the bushreens had -approved of this measure. His father, however, he said, would not -put the sentence into execution until Fatima, the queen, who was at -present in the north, had seen me. - -March 21.--Anxious to know my destiny, I went to the king early in -the morning; and as a number of bushreens were assembled, I thought -this a favourable opportunity of discovering their intentions. I -therefore began by begging his permission to return to Jarra, which -was flatly refused. His wife, he said, had not yet seen me, and I -must stay until she came to Benowm, after which I should be at -liberty to depart; and that my horse, which had been taken away from -me the day after I arrived, should be again restored to me. -Unsatisfactory as this answer was, I was forced to appear pleased; -and as there was little hope of making my escape at this season of -the year, on account of the excessive heat, and the total want of -water in the woods, I resolved to wait patiently until the rains had -set in, or until some more favourable opportunity should present -itself. But "hope deferred maketh the heart sick." This tedious -procrastination from day to day, and the thoughts of travelling -through the negro kingdoms in the rainy season, which was now fast -approaching, made me very melancholy; and having passed a restless -night, I found myself attacked in the morning by a smart fever. I -had wrapped myself close up in my cloak with a view to induce -perspiration, and was asleep, when a party of Moors entered the hut, -and with their usual rudeness pulled the cloak from me. I made -signs to them that I was sick, and wished much to sleep, but I -solicited in vain; my distress was matter of sport to them, and they -endeavoured to heighten it by every means in their power. In this -perplexity I left my hut, and walked to some shady trees at a little -distance from the camp, where I lay down. But even here persecution -followed me, and solitude was thought too great an indulgence for a -distressed Christian. Ali's son, with a number of horsemen, came -galloping to the place, and ordered me to rise and follow them. I -begged they would allow me to remain where I was, if it was only for -a few hours; but they paid little attention to what I said, and, -after a few threatening words, one of them pulled out a pistol from -a leather bag that was fastened to the pommel of his saddle, and -presenting it towards me, snapped it twice. He did this with so -much indifference, that I really doubted whether the pistol was -loaded. He cocked it a third time, and was striking the flint with -a piece of steel, when I begged them to desist, and returned with -them to the camp. When we entered Ali's tent we found him much out -of humour. He called for the Moor's pistol, and amused himself for -some time with opening and shutting the pan; at length taking up his -powder-horn, he fresh primed it, and, turning round to me with a -menacing look, said something in Arabic which I did not understand. -I desired my boy, who was sitting before the tent, to inquire what -offence I had committed; when I was informed, that having gone out -of the camp without Ali's permission, they suspected that I had some -design of making my escape; and that, in future, if I was seen -without the skirts of the camp, orders had been given that I should -be shot by the first person that observed me. - -In the afternoon the horizon to the eastward was thick and hazy, and -the Moors prognosticated a sand wind, which accordingly commenced on -the morning following, and lasted, with slight intermissions, for -two days. The force of the wind was not in itself very great; it -was what a seaman would have denominated a stiff breeze; but the -quantity of sand and dust carried before it was such as to darken -the whole atmosphere. - -About this time all the women of the camp had their feet and the -ends of their fingers stained of a dark saffron colour. I could -never ascertain whether this was done from motives of religion, or -by way of ornament. - -March 28.--This morning a large herd of cattle arrived from the -eastward, and one of the drivers, to whom Ali had lent my horse, -came into my hut with the leg of an antelope as a present, and told -me that my horse was standing before Ali's tent. In a little time -Ali sent one of his slaves to inform me that in the afternoon I must -be in readiness to ride out with him, as he intended to show me to -some of his women. - -About four o'clock, Ali, with six of his courtiers, came riding to -my hut, and told me to follow them. I readily complied. But here a -new difficulty occurred. The Moors, accustomed to a loose and easy -dress, could not reconcile themselves to the appearance of my -NANKEEN BREECHES, which they said were not only inelegant, but, on -account of their tightness, very indecent; and as this was a visit -to ladies, Ali ordered my boy to bring out the loose cloak which I -had always worn since my arrival at Benowm, and told me to wrap it -close round me. We visited the tents of four different ladies, at -every one of which I was presented with a bowl of milk and water. -All these ladies were remarkably corpulent, which is considered here -as the highest mark of beauty. They were very inquisitive, and -examined my hair and skin with great attention, but affected to -consider me as a sort of inferior being to themselves, and would -knit their brows, and seem to shudder when they looked at the -whiteness of my skin. - -The Moors are certainly very good horsemen. They ride without fear- --their saddles being high before and behind, afford them a very -secure seat; and if they chance to fall, the whole country is so -soft and sandy that they are very seldom hurt. Their greatest -pride, and one of their principal amusements, is to put the horse to -its full speed, and then stop him with a sudden jerk, so as -frequently to bring him down upon his haunches. Ali always rode -upon a milk-white horse, with its tail dyed red. He never walked, -unless when he went to say his prayers; and even in the night two or -three horses were always kept ready saddled at a little distance -from his own tent. The Moors set a very high value upon their -horses; for it is by their superior fleetness that they are enabled -to make so many predatory excursions into the negro countries. They -feed them three or four times a day, and generally give them a large -quantity of sweet milk in the evening, which the horses appear to -relish very much. - -April 3.--This forenoon, a child, which had been some time sickly, -died in the next tent; and the mother and relations immediately -began the death-howl. They were joined by a number of female -visitors, who came on purpose to assist at this melancholy concert. -I had no opportunity of seeing the burial, which is generally -performed secretly, in the dusk of the evening, and frequently at -only a few yards' distance from the tent. Over the grave they plant -one particular shrub, and no stranger is allowed to pluck a leaf, or -even to touch it--so great a veneration have they for the dead. - -April 7.--About four o'clock in the afternoon a whirlwind passed -through the camp with such violence that it overturned three tents, -and blew down one side of my hut. These whirlwinds come from the -Great Desert, and at this season of the year are so common that I -have seen five or six of them at one time. They carry up quantities -of sand to an amazing height, which resemble, at a distance, so many -moving pillars of smoke. - -The scorching heat of the sun, upon a dry and sandy country, makes -the air insufferably hot. Ali having robbed me of my thermometer, I -had no means of forming a comparative judgment; but in the middle of -the day, when the beams of the vertical sun are seconded by the -scorching wind from the desert, the ground is frequently heated to -such a degree as not to be borne by the naked foot. Even the negro -slaves will not run from one tent to another without their sandals. -At this time of the day the Moors lie stretched at length in their -tents, either asleep, or unwilling to move; and I have often felt -the wind so hot, that I could not hold my hand in the current of air -which came through the crevices of my hut without feeling sensible -pain. - -April. 8.--This day the wind blew from the south-west; and in the -night there was a heavy shower of rain, accompanied with thunder and -lightning. - -April 10.--In the evening the tabala, or large drum, was beat to -announce a wedding, which was held at one of the neighbouring tents. -A great number of people of both sexes assembled, but without that -mirth and hilarity which take place at a negro wedding. Here was -neither singing nor dancing, nor any other amusement that I could -perceive. A woman was beating the drum, and the other women joining -at times like a chorus, by setting up a shrill scream, and at the -same time moving their tongues from one side of the mouth to the -other with great celerity. I was soon tired, and had returned into -my hut, where I was sitting almost asleep, when an old woman entered -with a wooden bowl in her hand, and signified that she had brought -me a present from the bride. Before I could recover from the -surprise which this message created, the woman discharged tine -contents of the bowl full in my face. Finding that it was the same -sort of holy water with which, among the Hottentots, a priest is -said to sprinkle a newly-married couple, I began to suspect that the -old lady was actuated by mischief or malice; but she gave me -seriously to understand that it was a nuptial benediction from the -bride's own person, and which, on such occasions, is always received -by the young unmarried Moors as a mark of distinguished favour. -This being the case, I wiped my face, and sent my acknowledgments to -the lady. The wedding drum continued to beat, and the women to -sing, or rather whistle, all night. About nine in the morning the -bride was brought in state from her mother's tent, attended by a -number of women who carried her tent (a present from the husband), -some bearing up the poles, others holding by the strings; and in -this manner they marched, whistling as formerly, until they came to -the place appointed for her residence, where they pitched the tent. -The husband followed, with a number of men, leading four bullocks, -which they tied to the tent strings; and having killed another, and -distributed the beef among the people, the ceremony was concluded. - - - -CHAPTER XI--SUFFERINGS IN CAPTIVITY - - - -One whole month had now elapsed since I was led into captivity, -during which time each returning day brought me fresh distresses. I -watched the lingering course of the sun with anxiety, and blessed -his evening beams as they shined a yellow lustre along the sandy -floor of my hut; for it was then that my oppressors left me, and -allowed me to pass the sultry night in solitude and reflection. - -About midnight a bowl of kouskous, with some salt and water, were -brought for me and my two attendants. This was our common fare, and -it was all that was allowed us to allay the cravings of hunger and -support nature for the whole of the following day; for it is to be -observed that this was the Mohammedan Lent, and as the Moors keep -the fast with a religious strictness, they thought it proper to -compel me, though a Christian, to similar observance. Time, -however, somewhat reconciled me to my situation. I found that I -could bear hunger and thirst better than I expected; and at length I -endeavoured to beguile the tedious hours by learning to write -Arabic. - -April 14.--As Queen Fatima had not yet arrived, Ali proposed to go -to the north and bring her back with him; but as the place was two -days' journey from Benowm it was necessary to have some refreshment -on the road; and Ali, suspicious of those about him, was so afraid -of being poisoned, that he never ate anything but what was dressed -under his own immediate inspection. A fine bullock was therefore -killed, and the flesh being cut up into thin slices, was dried in -the sun; and this, with two bags of dry kouskous, formed his -travelling provisions. - -Previous to his departure, the black people of the town of Benowm -came, according to their annual custom, to show their arms, and -bring their stipulated tribute of corn and cloth. They were but -badly armed--twenty-two with muskets, forty or fifty with bows and -arrows, and nearly the same number of men and boys with spears only. -They arranged themselves before the tent, where they waited until -their arms were examined, and some little disputes settled. - -About midnight on the 16th, Ali departed quietly from Benowm, -accompanied by a few attendants. He was expected to return in the -course of nine or ten days. - -April 18.--Two days after the departure of Ali a shereef arrived -with salt and some other articles from Walet, the capital of the -kingdom of Biroo. As there was no tent appropriated for him, he -took up his abode in the same hut with me. He seemed to be a well- -informed man, and his acquaintance both with the Arabic and Bambarra -tongues enabled him to travel with ease and safety through a number -of kingdoms; for though his place of residence was Walet, he had -visited Houssa, and had lived some years at Timbuctoo. Upon my -inquiring so particularly about the distance from Walet to -Timbuctoo, he asked me if I intended to travel that way; and being -answered in the affirmative, he shook his head, and said it would -not do; for that Christians were looked upon there as the devil's -children, and enemies to the Prophet. From him I learned the -following particulars:- That Houssa was the largest town he had ever -seen: that Walet was larger than Timbuctoo, but being remote from -the Niger, and its trade consisting chiefly of salt, it was not so -much resorted to by strangers: that between Benowm and Walet was -ten days' journey; but the road did not lead through any remarkable -towns, and travellers supported themselves by purchasing milk from -the Arabs, who keep their herds by the watering-places: two of the -days' journeys was over a sandy country, without water. From Walet -to Timbuctoo was eleven days more; but water was more plentiful, and -the journey was usually performed upon bullocks. He said there were -many Jews at Timbuctoo, but they all spoke Arabic, and used the same -prayers as the Moors. He frequently pointed his hand to the south- -east quarter, or rather the east by south, observing that Timbuctoo -was situated in that direction; and though I made him repeat this -information again and again, I never found him to vary more than -half a point, which was to the southward. - -April 24.--This morning Shereef Sidi Mahomed Moora Abdalla, a native -of Morocco, arrived with five bullocks loaded with salt. He had -formerly resided some months at Gibraltar, where he had picked up as -much English as enabled him to make himself understood. He informed -me that he had been five months in coming from Santa Cruz; but that -great part of the time had been spent in trading. When I requested -him to enumerate the days employed in travelling from Morocco to -Benowm, he gave them as follows: To Swera, three days; to Agadier, -three; to Jinikin, ten; to Wadenoon, four; to Lakeneig, five; to -Zeeriwin-zerimani, five; to Tisheet, ten; to Benowm, ten--in all, -fifty days: but travellers usually rest a long while at Jinikin and -Tisheet--at the latter of which places they dig the rock salt, which -is so great an article of commerce with the negroes. - -In conversing with these shereefs, and the different strangers that -resorted to the camp, I passed my time with rather less uneasiness -than formerly. On the other hand, as the dressing of my victuals -was now left entirely to the care of Ali's slaves, over whom I had -not the smallest control, I found myself but ill supplied, worse -even than in the fast month: for two successive nights they -neglected to send us our accustomed meal; and though my boy went to -a small negro town near the camp, and begged with great diligence -from hut to hut, he could only procure a few handfuls of ground -nuts, which he readily shared with me. - -We had been for some days in daily expectation of Ali's return from -Saheel (or the north country) with his wife Fatima. In the -meanwhile, Mansong, king of Bambarra, as I have related in Chapter -VIII., had sent to Ali for a party of horse to assist in storming -Gedingooma. With this demand Ali had not only refused to comply, -but had treated the messengers with great haughtiness and contempt; -upon which Mansong gave up all thoughts of taking the town, and -prepared to chastise Ali for his contumacy. - -Things were in this situation when, on the 29th of April, a -messenger arrived at Benowm with the disagreeable intelligence that -the Bambarra army was approaching the frontiers of Ludamar. This -threw the whole country into confusion, and in the afternoon Ali's -son, with about twenty horsemen, arrived at Benowm. He ordered all -the cattle to be driven away immediately, all the tents to be -struck, and the people to hold themselves in readiness to depart at -daylight the next morning. - -April 30.--At daybreak the whole camp was in motion. The baggage -was carried upon bullocks--the two tent poles being placed one on -each side, and the different wooden articles of the tent distributed -in like manner; the tent cloth was thrown over all, and upon this -was commonly placed one or two women; for the Moorish women are very -bad walkers. The king's favourite concubines rode upon camels, with -a saddle of a particular construction, and a canopy to shelter them -from the sun. We proceeded to the northward until noon, when the -king's son ordered the whole company, except the tents, to enter a -thick low wood which was upon our right. I was sent along with the -two tents, and arrived in the evening at a negro town called Farani: -here we pitched the tents in an open place at no great distance from -the town. - -May 1.--As I had some reason to suspect that this day was also to be -considered as a fast, I went in the morning to the negro town of -Farani, and begged some provisions from the dooty, who readily -supplied my wants, and desired me to come to his house every day -during my stay in the neighbourhood.--These hospitable people are -looked upon by the Moors as an abject race of slaves, and are -treated accordingly. - -May 3.--We departed from the vicinity of Farani, and after a -circuitous route through the woods, arrived at Ali's camp in the -afternoon. This encampment was larger than that of Benowm, and was -situated un the middle of a thick wood, about two miles distant from -a negro town called Bubaker. I immediately waited upon Ali, in -order to pay my respects to Queen Fatima, who had come with him from -Saheel. He seemed much pleased with my coming, shook hands with me, -and informed his wife that I was the Christian. She was a woman of -the Arab caste, with long black hair, and remarkably corpulent. She -appeared at first rather shocked at the thought of having a -Christian so near her; but when I had, by means of a negro boy who -spoke the Mandingo and Arabic tongues, answered a great many -questions which her curiosity suggested respecting the country of -the Christians, she seemed more at ease, and presented me with a -bowl of milk, which I considered as a very favourable omen. - -The heat was now almost insufferable--all nature seemed sinking -under it. The distant country presented to the eye a dreary expanse -of sand, with a few stunted trees and prickly bushes, in the shade -of which the hungry cattle licked up the withered grass, while the -camels and goats picked off the scanty foliage. The scarcity of -water was greater here than at Benowm. Day and night the wells were -crowded with cattle, lowing and fighting with each other to come at -the troughs. Excessive thirst made many of them furious; others, -being too weak to contend for the water, endeavoured to quench their -thirst by devouring the black mud from the gutters near the wells, -which they did with great avidity, though it was commonly fatal to -them. - -One night, having solicited in vain for water at the camp, and been -quite feverish, I resolved to try my fortune at the wells, which -were about half a mile distant from the camp. Accordingly I set out -about midnight, and being guided by the lowing of the cattle, soon -arrived at the place, where I found the Moors very busy drawing -water. I requested permission to drink, but was driven away with -outrageous abuse. Passing, however, from one well to another, I -came at last to one where there was only an old man and two boys. I -made the same request to this man, and he immediately drew me up a -bucket of water; but, as I was about to take hold of it, he -recollected that I was a Christian, and fearing that his bucket -might be polluted by my lips, he dashed the water into the trough, -and told me to drink from thence. Though this trough was none of -the largest, and three cows were already drinking from it, I -resolved to come in for my share; and kneeling down thrust my head -between two of the cows, and drank with great pleasure until the -water was nearly exhausted, and the cows began to contend with each -other for the last mouthful. - -In adventures of this nature I passed the sultry month of May, -during which no material change took place in my situation. Ali -still considered me as a lawful prisoner; and Fatima, though she -allowed me a larger quantity of victuals than I had been accustomed -to receive at Benowm, had as yet said nothing on the subject of my -release. In the meantime, the frequent changes of the wind, the -gathering clouds, and distant lightning, with other appearances of -approaching rain, indicated that the wet season was at hand, when -the Moors annually evacuate the country of the negroes, and return -to the skirts of the Great Desert. This made me consider that my -fate was drawing towards a crisis, and I resolved to wait for the -event without any seeming uneasiness; but circumstances occurred -which produced a change in my favour more suddenly than I had -foreseen, or had reason to expect. The case was this:- The fugitive -Kaartans, who had taken refuge in Ludamar, as I have related in -Chapter VIII., finding that the Moors were about to leave them, and -dreading the resentment of their own sovereign, whom they had so -basely deserted, offered to treat with Ali for two hundred Moorish -horsemen, to co-operate with them in an effort to expel Daisy from -Gedingooma; for until Daisy should be vanquished or humbled they -considered that they could neither return to their native towns nor -live in security in any of the neighbouring kingdoms. With a view -to extort money from these people by means of this treaty, Ali -despatched his son to Jarra, and prepared to follow him in the -course of a few days. This was an opportunity of too great -consequence to me to be neglected. I immediately applied to Fatima, -who, I found, had the chief direction in all affairs of state, and -begged her interest with Ali to give me permission to accompany him -to Jarra. This request, after some hesitation, was favourably -received. Fatima looked kindly on me, and, I believe, was at length -moved with compassion towards me. My bundles were brought from the -large cow-skin bag that stood in the corner of Ali's tent, and I was -ordered to explain the use of the different articles, and show the -method of putting on the boots, stockings, &c.--with all which I -cheerfully complied, and was told that in the course of a few days I -should be at liberty to depart. - -Believing, therefore, that I should certainly find the means of -escaping from Jarra, if I should once get thither, I now freely -indulged the pleasing hope that my captivity would soon terminate; -and happily not having been disappointed in this idea, I shall pause -in this place to collect and bring into one point of view such -observations on the Moorish character and country as I had no fair -opportunity of introducing into the preceding narrative. - - - -CHAPTER XII--OBSERVATIONS ON THE CHARACTER AND COUNTRY OF THE MOORS - - - -The Moors of this part of Africa are divided into many separate -tribes, of which the most formidable, according to what was reported -to me, are those of Trasart and Il Braken, which inhabit the -northern bank of the Senegal river. The tribes of Gedumah, Jaffnoo, -and Ludamar, though not so numerous as the former, are nevertheless -very powerful and warlike, and are each governed by a chief, or -king, who exercises absolute jurisdiction over his own horde, -without acknowledging allegiance to a common sovereign. In time of -peace the employment of the people is pasturage. The Moors, indeed, -subsist chiefly on the flesh of their cattle, and are always in the -extreme of either gluttony or abstinence. In consequence of the -frequent and severe fasts which their religion enjoins, and the -toilsome journeys which they sometimes undertake across the desert, -they are enabled to bear both hunger and thirst with surprising -fortitude; but whenever opportunities occur of satisfying their -appetite they generally devour more at one meal than would serve a -European for three. They pay but little attention to agriculture, -purchasing their corn, cotton, cloth, and other necessaries from the -negroes, in exchange for salt, which they dig from the pits in the -Great Desert. - -The natural barrenness of the country is such that it furnishes but -few materials for manufacture. The Moors, however, contrive to -weave a strong cloth, with which they cover their tents; the thread -is spun by their women from the hair of goats, and they prepare the -hides of their cattle so as to furnish saddles, bridles, pouches, -and other articles of leather. They are likewise sufficiently -skilful to convert the native iron, which they procure from the -negroes, into spears and knives, and also into pots for boiling -their food; but their sabres, and other weapons, as well as their -firearms and ammunition, they purchase from the Europeans, in -exchange for the negro slaves which they obtain in their predatory -excursions. Their chief commerce of this kind is with the French -traders on the Senegal river. - -The Moors are rigid Mohammedans, and possess, with the bigotry and -superstition, all the intolerance of their sect. They have no -mosques at Benowm, but perform their devotions in a sort of open -shed, or enclosure, made of mats. The priest is, at the same time, -schoolmaster to the juniors. His pupils assemble every evening -before his tent; where, by the light of a large fire, made of -brushwood and cow's dung, they are taught a few sentences from the -Koran, and are initiated into the principles of their creed. Their -alphabet differs but little from that in Richardson's Arabic -Grammar. They always write with the vowel points. Their priests -even affect to know something of foreign literature. The priest of -Benowm assured me that he could read the writings of the Christians: -he showed me a number of barbarous characters, which he asserted -were the Roman alphabet; and he produced another specimen, equally -unintelligible, which he declared to be the Kallam il Indi, or -Persian. His library consisted of nine volumes in quarto; most of -them, I believe, were books of religion--for the name of Mohammed -appeared in red letters in almost every page of each. His scholars -wrote their lessons upon thin boards, paper being too expensive for -general use. The boys were diligent enough, and appeared to possess -a considerable share of emulation--carrying their boards slung over -their shoulders when about their common employments. When a boy has -committed to memory a few of their prayers, and can read and write -certain parts of the Koran, he is reckoned sufficiently instructed; -and with this slender stock of learning commences his career of -life. Proud of his acquirements, he surveys with contempt the -unlettered negro; and embraces every opportunity of displaying his -superiority over such of his countrymen as are not distinguished by -the same accomplishments. - -The education of the girls is neglected altogether: mental -accomplishments are but little attended to by the women; nor is the -want of them considered by the men as a defect in the female -character. They are regarded, I believe, as an inferior species of -animals; and seem to be brought up for no other purpose than that of -administering to the sensual pleasures of their imperious masters. -Voluptuousness is therefore considered as their chief -accomplishment, and slavish submission as their indispensable duty. - -The Moors have singular ideas of feminine perfection. The -gracefulness of figure and motion, and a countenance enlivened by -expression, are by no means essential points in their standard. -With them corpulence and beauty appear to be terms nearly -synonymous. A woman of even moderate pretensions must be one who -cannot walk without a slave under each arm to support her; and a -perfect beauty is a load for a camel. In consequence of this -prevalent taste for unwieldiness of bulk, the Moorish ladies take -great pains to acquire it early in life; and for this purpose many -of the young girls are compelled by their mothers to devour a great -quantity of kouskous, and drink a large bowl of camel's milk every -morning. It is of no importance whether the girl has an appetite or -not; the kouskous and milk must be swallowed, and obedience is -frequently enforced by blows. I have seen a poor girl sit crying, -with the bowl at her lips, for more than an hour, and her mother, -with a stick in her hand, watching her all the while, and using the -stick without mercy whenever she observed that her daughter was not -swallowing. This singular practice, instead of producing -indigestion and disease, soon covers the young lady with that degree -of plumpness which, in the eye of a Moor, is perfection itself. - -As the Moors purchase all their clothing from the negroes, the women -are forced to be very economical in the article of dress. In -general they content themselves with a broad piece of cotton cloth, -which is wrapped round the middle, and hangs down like a petticoat -almost to the ground. To the upper part of this are sewed two -square pieces, one before, and the other behind, which are fastened -together over the shoulders. The head-dress is commonly a bandage -of cotton cloth, with some parts of it broader than others, which -serve to conceal the face when they walk in the sun. Frequently, -however, when they go abroad, they veil themselves from head to -foot. - -The employment of the women varies according to their degrees of -opulence. Queen Fatima, and a few others of high rank, like the -great ladies in some parts of Europe, pass their time chiefly in -conversing with their visitors, performing their devotions, or -admiring their charms in a looking-glass. The women of inferior -class employ themselves in different domestic duties. They are very -vain and talkative; and when anything puts them out of humour they -commonly vent their anger upon their female slaves, over whom they -rule with severe and despotic authority, which leads me to observe -that the condition of these poor captives is deplorably wretched. -At daybreak they are compelled to fetch water from the wells in -large skins, called girbas; and as soon as they have brought water -enough to serve the family for the day, as well as the horses (for -the Moors seldom give their horses the trouble of going to the -wells), they are then employed in pounding the corn and dressing the -victuals. This being always done in the open air, the slaves are -exposed to the combined heat of the sun, the sand, and the fire. In -the intervals it is their business to sweep the tent, churn the -milk, and perform other domestic offices. With all this they are -badly fed, and oftentimes cruelly punished. - -The men's dress, among the Moors of Ludamar, differs but little from -that of the negroes, which has been already described, except that -they have all adopted that characteristic of the Mohammedan sect, -the turban, which is here universally made of white cotton cloth. -Such of the Moors as have long beards display them with a mixture of -pride and satisfaction, as denoting an Arab ancestry. Of this -number was Ali himself; but among the generality of the people the -hair is short and busy, and universally black. And here I may be -permitted to observe, that if any one circumstance excited among -them favourable thoughts towards my own person, it was my beard, -which was now grown to an enormous length, and was always beheld -with approbation or envy. I believe, in my conscience, they thought -it too good a beard for a Christian. - -The only diseases which I observed to prevail among the Moors were -the intermittent fever and dysentery--for the cure of which nostrums -are sometimes administered by their old women, but in general nature -is left to her own operations. Mention was made to me of the small- -pox as being sometimes very destructive; but it had not, to my -knowledge, made its appearance in Ludamar while I was in captivity. -That it prevails, however, among some tribes of the Moors, and that -it is frequently conveyed by them to the negroes in the southern -states, I was assured on the authority of Dr. Laidley, who also -informed me that the negroes on the Gambia practise inoculation. - -The administration of criminal justice, as far as I had -opportunities of observing, was prompt and decisive: for although -civil rights were but little regarded in Ludamar, it was necessary -when crimes were committed that examples should sometimes be made. -On such occasions the offender was brought before Ali, who -pronounced, of his sole authority, what judgment he thought proper. -But I understood that capital punishment was seldom or never -inflicted, except on the negroes. - -Although the wealth of the Moors consists chiefly in their numerous -herds of cattle, yet, as the pastoral life does not afford full -employment, the majority of the people are perfectly idle, and spend -the day in trifling conversation about their horses, or in laying -schemes of depredation on the negro villages. - -Of the number of Ali's Moorish subjects I had no means of forming a -correct estimate. The military strength of Ludamar consists in -cavalry. They are well mounted, and appear to be very expert in -skirmishing and attacking by surprise. Every soldier furnishes his -own horse, and finds his accoutrements, consisting of a large sabre, -a double-barrelled gun, a small red leather bag for holding his -balls, and a powder bag slung over the shoulder. He has no pay, nor -any remuneration but what arises from plunder. This body is not -very numerous; for when Ali made war upon Bambarra I was informed -that his whole force did not exceed two thousand cavalry. They -constitute, however, by what I could learn, but a very small -proportion of his Moorish subjects. The horses are very beautiful, -and so highly esteemed that the negro princes will sometimes give -from twelve to fourteen slaves for one horse. - -Ludamar has for its northern boundary the great desert of Sahara. -From the best inquiries I could make, this vast ocean of sand, which -occupies so large a space in northern Africa, may be pronounced -almost destitute of inhabitants, except where the scanty vegetation -which appears in certain spots affords pasturage for the flocks of a -few miserable Arabs, who wander from one well to another. In other -places, where the supply of water and pasturage is more abundant, -small parties of the Moors have taken up their residence. Here they -live, in independent poverty, secure from the tyrannical government -of Barbary. But the greater part of the desert, being totally -destitute of water, is seldom visited by any human being, unless -where the trading caravans trace out their toilsome and dangerous -route across it. In some parts of this extensive waste the ground -is covered with low stunted shrubs, which serve as landmarks for the -caravans, and furnish the camels with a scanty forage. In other -parts the disconsolate wanderer, wherever he turns, sees nothing -around him but a vast interminable expanse of sand and sky--a gloomy -and barren void, where the eye finds no particular object to rest -upon, and the mind is filled with painful apprehensions of perishing -with thirst. - -The few wild animals which inhabit these melancholy regions are the -antelope and the ostrich; their swiftness of foot enabling them to -reach the distant watering-places. On the skirts of the desert, -where water is more plentiful, are found lions, panthers, elephants, -and wild bears. - -Of domestic animals, the only one that can endure the fatigue of -crossing the desert is the camel. By the particular conformation of -the stomach he is enabled to carry a supply of water sufficient for -ten or twelve days; his broad and yielding foot is well adapted for -a sandy country; and, by a singular motion of his upper lip, he -picks the smallest leaves from the thorny shrubs of the desert as he -passes along. The camel is therefore the only beast of burden -employed by the trading caravans which traverse the desert in -different directions, from Barbary to Nigritia. As this useful and -docile creature has been sufficiently described by systematical -writers it is unnecessary for me to enlarge upon his properties. I -shall only add that his flesh, though to my own taste dry and -unsavoury, is preferred by the Moors to any other; and that the milk -of the female is in universal esteem, and is indeed sweet, pleasant, -and nutritive. - -I have observed that the Moors, in their complexion, resemble the -mulattoes of the West Indies; but they have something unpleasant in -their aspect which the mulattoes have not. I fancied that I -discovered in the features of most of them a disposition towards -cruelty and low cunning; and I could never contemplate their -physiognomy without feeling sensible uneasiness. From the staring -wildness of their eyes a stranger would immediately set them down as -a nation of lunatics. The treachery and malevolence of their -character are manifest in their plundering excursions against the -negro villages. Oftentimes without the smallest provocation, and -sometimes under the fairest professions of friendship, they will -suddenly seize upon the negroes' cattle, and even on the inhabitants -themselves. The negroes very seldom retaliate. - -Like the roving Arabs, the Moors frequently remove from one place to -another, according to the season of the year or the convenience of -pasturage. In the month of February, when the heat of the sun -scorches up every sort of vegetation in the desert, they strike -their tents and approach the negro country to the south, where they -reside until the rains commence, in the month of July. At this -time, having purchased corn and other necessaries from the negroes, -in exchange for salt, they again depart to the northward, and -continue in the desert until the rains are over, and that part of -the country becomes burnt up and barren. - -This wandering and restless way of life, while it inures them to -hardships, strengthens at the same time the bonds of their little -society, and creates in them an aversion towards strangers which is -almost insurmountable. Cut off from all intercourse with civilised -nations, and boasting an advantage over the negroes, by possessing, -though in a very limited degree, the knowledge of letters, they are -at once the vainest and proudest, and perhaps the most bigoted, -ferocious, and intolerant of all the nations on the earth--combining -in their character the blind superstition of the negro with the -savage cruelty and treachery of the Arab. - - - -CHAPTER XIII--ESCAPE FROM CAPTIVITY - - - -Having, as hath been related, obtained permission to accompany Ali -to Jarra, I took leave of Queen Fatima, who, with much grace and -civility, returned me part of my apparel; and the evening before my -departure, my horse, with the saddle and bridle, were sent me by -Ali's order. - -Early on the morning of the 26th of May I departed from the camp of -Bubaker, accompanied by my two attendants, Johnson and Demba, and a -number of Moors on horseback, Ali, with about fifty horsemen, having -gone privately from the camp during the night. We stopped about -noon at Farani, and were there joined by twelve Moors riding upon -camels, and with them we proceeded to a watering-place in the woods, -where we overtook Ali and his fifty horsemen. They were lodged in -some low shepherd's tents near the wells. - -May 28.--Early in the morning the Moors saddled their horses, and -Ali's chief slave ordered me to get in readiness. In a little time -the same messenger returned, and, taking my boy by the shoulder, -told him in the Mandingo language, that "Ali was to be his master in -future;" and then turning to me, "The business is settled at last," -said he; "the boy, and everything but your horse, goes back to -Bubaker, but you may take the old fool" (meaning Johnson the -interpreter) "with you to Jarra." I made him no answer; but being -shocked beyond description at the idea of losing the poor boy, I -hastened to Ali, who was at breakfast before his tent, surrounded by -many of his courtiers. I told him (perhaps in rather too passionate -a strain), that whatever imprudence I had been guilty of in coming -into his country, I thought I had already been sufficiently punished -for it by being so long detained, and then plundered of all my -little property; which, however, gave me no uneasiness when compared -with what he had just now done to me. I observed that the boy whom -he had now seized upon was not a slave, and had been accused of no -offence; he was, indeed, one of my attendants, and his faithful -services in that station had procured him his freedom. His fidelity -and attachment had made him fellow me into my present situation, -and, as he looked up to me for protection I could not see him -deprived of his liberty without remonstrating against such an act as -the height of cruelty and injustice. Ali made no reply, but, with a -haughty air and malignant smile, told his interpreter that if I did -not mount my horse immediately he would send me back likewise. -There is something in the frown of a tyrant which rouses the most -secret emotions of the heart: I could not suppress my feelings, and -for once entertained an indignant wish to rid the world of such a -monster. - -Poor Demba was not less affected than myself. He had formed a -strong attachment towards me, and had a cheerfulness of disposition -which often beguiled the tedious hours of captivity. He was -likewise a proficient in the Bambarra tongue, and promised on that -account to be of great utility to me in future. But it was in vain -to expect anything favourable to humanity from people who are -strangers to its dictates. So, having shaken hands with this -unfortunate boy, and blended my tears with his, assuring him, -however, that I would do my utmost to redeem him, I saw him led off -by three of Ali's slaves towards the camp at Bubaker. - -When the Moors had mounted their horses I was ordered to follow -them, and, after a toilsome journey through the woods in a very -sultry day, we arrived in the afternoon at a walled village called -Doombani, where we remained two days, waiting for the arrival of -some horsemen from the northward. - -On the 1st of June we departed from Doombani towards Jarra. Our -company now amounted to two hundred men, all on horseback, for the -Moors never use infantry in their wars. They appeared capable of -enduring great fatigue; but from their total want of discipline our -journey to Jarra was more like a fox-chase than the march of an -army. - -At Jarra I took up my lodging at the house of my old acquaintance, -Daman Jumma, and informed him of everything that had befallen me. I -particularly requested him to use his interest with Ali to redeem my -boy, and promised him a bill upon Dr. Laidley for the value of two -slaves the moment he brought him to Jarra. Daman very readily -undertook to negotiate the business, but found that Ali considered -the boy as my principal interpreter, and was unwilling to part with -him, lest he should fall a second time into my hands, and be -instrumental in conducting me to Bambarra. Ali, therefore, put off -the matter from day to day, but withal told Daman that if he wished -to purchase the boy for himself he should have him thereafter at the -common price of a slave, which Daman agreed to pay for him whenever -Ali should send him to Jarra. - -The chief object of Ali, in this journey to Jarra, as I have already -related, was to procure money from such of the Kaartans as had taken -refuge in his country. Some of these had solicited his protection -to avoid the horrors of war, but by far the greatest number of them -were dissatisfied men, who wished the ruin of their own sovereign. -These people no sooner heard that the Bambarra army had returned to -Sego without subduing Daisy, as was generally expected, than they -resolved to make a sudden attack themselves upon him before he could -recruit his forces, which were now known to be much diminished by a -bloody campaign, and in great want of provisions. With this view -they solicited the Moors to join them, and offered to hire of Ali -two hundred horsemen, which Ali, with the warmest professions of -friendship, agreed to furnish, upon condition that they should -previously supply him with four hundred head of cattle, two hundred -garments of blue cloth, and a considerable quantity of beads and -ornaments. - -June 8.--In the afternoon Ali sent his chief slave to inform me that -he was about to return to Bubaker: but as he would only stay there -a few days to keep the approaching festival (Banna selee), and then -return to Jarra, I had permission to remain with Daman until his -return. This was joyful news to me; but I had experienced so many -disappointments that I was unwilling to indulge the hope of its -being true, until Johnson came and told me that Ali, with part of -the horsemen, were actually gone from the town, and that the rest -were to follow him in the morning. - -June 9.--Early in the morning the remainder of the Moors departed -from the town. They had, during their stay, committed many acts of -robbery; and this morning with the most unparalleled audacity, they -seized upon three girls who were bringing water from the wells, and -carried them away into slavery. - -June 12.--Two people, dreadfully wounded, were discovered at a -watering-place in the woods; one of them had just breathed his last, -but the other was brought alive to Jarra. On recovering a little he -informed the people that he had fled through the woods from Kasson; -that Daisy had made war upon Sambo, the king of that country; had -surprised three of his towns, and put all the inhabitants to the -sword. He enumerated by name many of the friends of the Jarra -people who had been murdered in Kasson. This intelligence made the -death-howl universal in Jarra for the space of two days. - -This piece of bad news was followed by another not less distressing. -A number of runaway slaves arrived from Kaarta on the 14th, and -reported that Daisy, having received information concerning the -intended attack upon him, was about to visit Jarra. This made the -negroes call upon Ali for the two hundred horsemen which he was to -furnish them according to engagement. But Ali paid very little -attention to their remonstrances, and at last plainly told them that -his cavalry were otherwise employed. The negroes, thus deserted by -the Moors, and fully apprised that the king of Kaarta would show -them as little clemency as he had shown the inhabitants of Kasson, -resolved to collect all their forces, and hazard a battle before the -king, who was now in great distress for want of provisions, should -become too powerful for them. They therefore assembled about eight -hundred effective men in the whole, and with these they entered -Kaarta on the evening of the 18th of June. - -June 19.--This morning the wind shifted to the south-west; and about -two o'clock in the afternoon we had a heavy tornado, or thunder- -squall, accompanied with rain, which greatly revived the face of -nature, and gave a pleasant coolness to the air. This was the first -rain that had fallen for many months. - -As every attempt to redeem my boy had hitherto been unsuccessful, -and in all probability would continue to prove so whilst I remained -in the country, I found that it was necessary for me to come to some -determination concerning my own safety before the rains should be -fully set in; for my landlord, seeing no likelihood of being paid -for his trouble, began to wish me away--and Johnson, my interpreter, -refusing to proceed, my situation became very perplexing. I -determined to avail myself of the first opportunity of escaping, and -to proceed directly for Bambarra, as soon as the rains had set in -for a few days, so as to afford me the certainty of finding water in -the woods. - -Such was my situation when, on the evening of the 24th of June, I -was startled by the report of some muskets close to the town, and -inquiring the reason, was informed that the Jarra army had returned -from fighting Daisy, and that this firing was by way of rejoicing. -However, when the chief men of the town had assembled, and heard a -full detail of the expedition, they were by no means relieved from -their uneasiness on Daisy's account. The deceitful Moors having -drawn back from the confederacy, after being hired by the negroes, -greatly dispirited the insurgents, who, instead of finding Daisy -with a few friends concealed in the strong fortress of Gedingooma, -had found him at a town near Joka, in the open country, surrounded -by so numerous an army that every attempt to attack him was at once -given up; and the confederates only thought of enriching themselves -by the plunder of the small towns in the neighbourhood. They -accordingly fell upon one of Daisy's towns, and carried off the -whole of the inhabitants; but lest intelligence of this might reach -Daisy, and induce him to cut off their retreat, they returned -through the woods by night bringing with them the slaves and cattle -which they had captured. - -June 26.--This afternoon a spy from Kaarta brought the alarming -intelligence that Daisy had taken Simbing in the morning, and would -be in Jarra some time in the course of the ensuing day. Early in -the morning nearly one-half of the townspeople took the road for -Bambarra, by the way of Deena. - -Their departure was very affecting, the women and children crying, -the men sullen and dejected, and all of them looking back with -regret on their native town, and on the wells and rocks beyond which -their ambition had never tempted them to stray, and where they had -laid all their plans of future happiness, all of which they were now -forced to abandon, and to seek shelter among strangers. - -June 27.--About eleven o'clock in the forenoon we were alarmed by -the sentinels, who brought information that Daisy was on his march -towards Jarra, and that the confederate army had fled before him -without firing a gun. The terror of the townspeople on this -occasion is not easily to be described. Indeed, the screams of the -women and children, and the great hurry and confusion that -everywhere prevailed, made me suspect that the Kaartans had already -entered the town; and although I had every reason to be pleased with -Daisy's behaviour to me when I was at Kemmoo, I had no wish to -expose myself to the mercy of his army, who might in the general -confusion mistake me for a Moor. I therefore mounted my horse, and -taking a large bag of corn before me, rode slowly along with the -townspeople, until we reached the foot of a rocky hill, where I -dismounted and drove my horse up before me. When I had reached the -summit I sat down, and having a full view of the town and the -neighbouring country, could not help lamenting the situation of the -poor inhabitants, who were thronging after me, driving their sheep, -cows, goats, &c., and carrying a scanty portion of provisions and a -few clothes. There was a great noise and crying everywhere upon the -road, for many aged people and children were unable to walk, and -these, with the sick, were obliged to be carried, otherwise they -must have been left to certain destruction. - -About five o'clock we arrived at a small farm belonging to the Jarra -people, called Kadeeja; and here I found Daman and Johnson employed -in filling large bags of corn, to be carried upon bullocks, to serve -as provisions for Daman's family on the road. - -June 28.--At daybreak we departed from Kadeeja, and having passed -Troongoomba without stopping, arrived in the afternoon at Queira. I -remained here two days, in order to recruit my horse, which the -Moors had reduced to a perfect Rosinante, and to wait for the -arrival of some Mandingo negroes, who were going for Bambarra in the -course of a few days. - -On the afternoon of the 1st of July, as I was tending my horse in -the fields, Ali's chief slave and four Moors arrived at Queira, and -took up their lodging at the dooty's house. My interpreter, -Johnson, who suspected the nature of this visit, sent two boys to -overhear their conversation, from which he learnt that they were -sent to convey me back to Bubaker. The same evening two of the -Moors came privately to look at my horse, and one of them proposed -taking it to the dooty's hut, but the other observed that such a -precaution was unnecessary, as I could never escape upon such an -animal. They then inquired where I slept, and returned to their -companions, - -All this was like a stroke of thunder to me, for I dreaded nothing -so much as confinement again among the Moors, from whose barbarity I -had nothing but death to expect. I therefore determined to set off -immediately for Bambarra, a measure which I thought offered almost -the only chance of saving my life and gaining the object of my -mission. I communicated the design to Johnson, who, although he -applauded my resolution, was so far from showing any inclination to -accompany me, that he solemnly protested he would rather forfeit his -wages than go any farther. He told me that Daman had agreed to give -him half the price of a slave for his service to assist in -conducting a coffle of slaves to Gambia, and that he was determined -to embrace the opportunity of returning to his wife and family. - -Having no hopes, therefore, of persuading him to accompany me, I -resolved to proceed by myself. About midnight I got my clothes in -readiness, which consisted of two shirts, two pairs of trousers, two -pocket-handkerchiefs, an upper and under waistcoat, a mat, and a -pair of half-boots; these, with a cloak, constituted my whole -wardrobe. And I had not one single bead, nor any other article of -value in my possession, to purchase victuals for myself or corn for -my horse. - -About daybreak, Johnson, who had been listening to the Moors all -night, came and whispered to me that they were asleep. The awful -crisis was now arrived when I was again either to taste the blessing -of freedom or languish out my days in captivity. A cold sweat -moistened my forehead as I thought on the dreadful alternative, and -reflected that, one way or another, my fate must be decided in the -course of the ensuing day. But to deliberate was to lose the only -chance of escaping. So, taking up my bundle, I stepped gently over -the negroes, who were sleeping in the open air, and having mounted -my horse, I bade Johnson farewell, desiring him to take particular -care of the papers I had entrusted him with, and inform my friends -in Gambia that he had left me in good health, on my way to Bambarra. - -I proceeded with great caution, surveying each bush, and frequently -listening and looking behind me for the Moorish horsemen, until I -was about a mile from the town, when I was surprised to find myself -in the neighbourhood of a korree belonging to the Moors. The -shepherds followed me for about a mile, hooting and throwing stones -after me; and when I was out of their reach, and had begun to -indulge the pleasing hopes of escaping, I was again greatly alarmed -to hear somebody holloa behind me, and looking back, I saw three -Moors on horseback, coming after me at full speed, whooping and -brandishing their double-barrelled guns. I knew it was in vain to -think of escaping, and therefore turned back and met them, when two -of them caught hold of my bridle, one on each side, and the third, -presenting his musket, told me I must go back to Ali. When the -human mind has for some time been fluctuating between hope and -despair, tortured with anxiety, and hurried from one extreme to -another, it affords a sort of gloomy relief to know the worst that -can possibly happen. Such was my situation. An indifference about -life and all its enjoyments had completely benumbed my faculties, -and I rode back with the Moors with apparent unconcern. But a -change took place much sooner than I had any reason to expect. In -passing through some thick bushes one of the Moors ordered me to -untie my bundle and show them the contents. Having examined the -different articles, they found nothing worth taking except my cloak, -which they considered as a very valuable acquisition, and one of -them pulling it from me, wrapped it about himself, and, with one of -his companions, rode off with their prize. When I attempted to -follow them, the third, who had remained with me, struck my horse -over the head, and presenting his musket, told me I should proceed -no farther. I now perceived that these men had not been sent by any -authority to apprehend me, but had pursued me solely with a view to -rob and plunder me. Turning my horse's head, therefore, once more -towards the east, and observing the Moor follow the track of his -confederates, I congratulated myself on having escaped with my life, -though in great distress, from such a horde of barbarians. - -I was no sooner out of sight of the Moor than I struck into the -woods to prevent being pursued, and kept pushing on with all -possible speed, until I found myself near some high rocks, which I -remembered to have seen in my former route from Queira to Deena and, -directing my course a little to the northward, I fortunately fell in -with the path. - - - -CHAPTER XIV--JOURNEY CONTINUED; ARRIVAL AT WAWRA - - - -It is impossible to describe the joy that arose in my mind when I -looked around and concluded that I was out of danger. I felt like -one recovered from sickness; I breathed freer; I found unusual -lightness in my limbs; even the desert looked pleasant; and I -dreaded nothing so much as falling in with some wandering parties of -Moors, who might convey me back to the land of thieves and murderers -from which I had just escaped. - -I soon became sensible, however, that my situation was very -deplorable, for I had no means of procuring food nor prospect of -finding water. About ten o'clock, perceiving a herd of goats -feeding close to the road, I took a circuitous route to avoid being -seen, and continued travelling through the wilderness, directing my -course by compass nearly east-south-east, in order to reach as soon -as possible some town or village of the kingdom of Bambarra. - -A little after noon, when the burning heat of the sun was reflected -with double violence from the hot sand, and the distant ridges of -the hills, seen through the ascending vapour, seemed to wave and -fluctuate like the unsettled sea, I became faint with thirst, and -climbed a tree in hopes of seeing distant smoke, or some other -appearance of a human habitation--but in vain: nothing appeared all -around but thick underwood and hillocks of white sand. - -About four o'clock I came suddenly upon a large herd of goats, and -pulling my horse into a bush, I watched to observe if the keepers -were Moors or negroes. In a little time I perceived two Moorish -boys, and with some difficulty persuaded them to approach me. They -informed me that the herd belonged to Ali, and that they were going -to Deena, where the water was more plentiful, and where they -intended to stay until the rain had filled the pools in the desert. -They showed me their empty water-skins, and told me that they had -seen no water in the woods. This account afforded me but little -consolation; however, it was in vain to repine, and I pushed on as -fast as possible, in hopes of reaching some watering-place in the -course of the night. My thirst was by this time become -insufferable; my mouth was parched and inflamed; a sudden dimness -would frequently come over my eyes, with other symptoms of fainting; -and my horse being very much fatigued, I began seriously to -apprehend that I should perish of thirst. To relieve the burning -pain in my mouth and throat I chewed the leaves of different shrubs, -but found them all bitter, and of no service to me. - -A little before sunset, having reached the top of a gentle rising, I -climbed a high tree, from the topmost branches of which I cast a -melancholy look over the barren wilderness, but without discovering -the most distant trace of a human dwelling. The same dismal -uniformity of shrubs and sand everywhere presented itself, and the -horizon was as level and uninterrupted as that of the sea. - -Descending from the tree, I found my horse devouring the stubble and -brushwood with great avidity; and as I was now too faint to attempt -walking, and my horse too much fatigued to carry me I thought it but -an act of humanity, and perhaps the last I should ever have it in my -power to perform, to take off his bridle and let him shift for -himself, in doing which I was suddenly affected with sickness and -giddiness, and falling upon the sand, felt as if the hour of death -was fast approaching. Here, then, thought I, after a short but -ineffectual struggle, terminate all my hopes of being useful in my -day and generation; here must the short span of my life come to an -end. I cast, as I believed, a last look on the surrounding scene, -and whilst I reflected on the awful change that was about to take -place, this world with its enjoyment seemed to vanish from my -recollection. Nature, however, at length resumed its functions, and -on recovering my senses, I found myself stretched upon the sand, -with the bridle still in my hand, and the sun just sinking behind -the trees. I now summoned all my resolution, and determined to make -another effort to prolong my existence; and as the evening was -somewhat cool, I resolved to travel as far as my limbs would carry -me, in hopes of reaching--my only resource--a watering-place. With -this view I put the bridle on my horse, and driving him before me, -went slowly along for about an hour, when I perceived some lightning -from the north-east--a most delightful sight, for it promised rain. -The darkness and lightning increased very rapidly, and in less than -an hour I heard the wind roaring among the bushes. I had already -opened my mouth to receive the refreshing drops which I expected, -but I was instantly covered with a cloud of sand, driven with such -force by the wind as to give a very disagreeable sensation to my -face and arms, and I was obliged to mount my horse and stop under a -bush to prevent being suffocated. The sand continued to fly in -amazing quantities for nearly an hour, after which I again set -forward, and travelled with difficulty until ten o'clock. About -this time I was agreeably surprised by some very vivid flashes of -lightning, followed by a few heavy drops of rain. In a little time -the sand ceased to fly, and I alighted and spread out all my clean -clothes to collect the rain, which at length I saw would certainly -fall. For more than an hour it rained plentifully, and I quenched -my thirst by wringing and sucking my clothes. - -There being no moon, it was remarkably dark, so that I was obliged -to lead my horse, and direct my way by the compass, which the -lightning enabled me to observe. In this manner I travelled with -tolerable expedition until past midnight, when the lightning -becoming more distant, I was under the necessity of groping along, -to the no small danger of my hands and eyes. About two o'clock my -horse started at something, and looking round, I was not a little -surprised to see a light at a short distance among the trees; and -supposing it to be a town, I groped along the sand in hopes of -finding corn-stalks, cotton, or other appearances of cultivation, -but found none. As I approached I perceived a number of other -lights in different places, and began to suspect that I had fallen -upon a party of Moors. However, in my present situation, I was -resolved to see who they were, if I could do it with safety. I -accordingly led my horse cautiously towards the light, and heard by -the lowing of the cattle and the clamorous tongues of the herdsmen, -that it was a watering-place, and most likely belonged to the Moors. -Delightful as the sound of the human voice was to me, I resolved -once more to strike into the woods, and rather run the risk of -perishing of hunger than trust myself again in their hands; but -being still thirsty, and dreading the approach of the burning day, I -thought it prudent to search for the wells, which I expected to find -at no great distance. - -In this purpose I inadvertently approached so near to one of the -tents as to be perceived by a woman, who immediately screamed out. -Two people came running to her assistance from some of the -neighbouring tents, and passed so very near to me that I thought I -was discovered, and hastened again into the woods. - -About a mile from this place I heard a loud and confused noise -somewhere to the right of my course, and in a short time was happy -to find it was the croaking of frogs, which was heavenly music to my -ears. I followed the sound, and at daybreak arrived at some shallow -muddy pools, so full of frogs, that it was difficult to discern the -water. The noise they made frightened my horse, and I was obliged -to keep them quiet, by beating the water with a branch, until he had -drunk. Having here quenched my thirst, I ascended a tree, and the -morning being calm, I soon perceived the smoke of the watering-place -which I had passed in the night, and observed another pillar of -smoke east-south-east, distant twelve or fourteen miles. Towards -this I directed my route, and reached the cultivated ground a little -before eleven o'clock, where, seeing a number of negroes at work -planting corn, I inquired the name of the town, and was informed -that it was a Foulah village belonging to Ali, called Shrilla. I -had now some doubts about entering it; but my horse being very much -fatigued, and the day growing hot--not to mention the pangs of -hunger, which began to assail me--I resolved to venture; and -accordingly rode up to the dooty's house, where I was unfortunately -denied admittance, and could not obtain oven a handful of corn -either for myself or horse. Turning from this inhospitable door, I -rode slowly out of the town, and, perceiving some low, scattered -huts without the walls, I directed my route towards them, knowing -that in Africa, as well as in Europe, hospitality does not always -prefer the highest dwellings. At the door of one of these huts an -old motherly-looking woman sat, spinning cotton. I made signs to -her that I was hungry, and inquired if she had any victuals with her -in the hut. She immediately laid down her distaff, and desired me, -in Arabic, to come in. When I had seated myself upon the floor, she -set before me a dish of kouskous that had been left the preceding -night, of which I made a tolerable meal; and in return for this -kindness I gave her one of my pocket-handkerchiefs, begging at the -same time a little corn for my horse, which she readily brought me. - -Whilst my horse was feeding the people began to assemble, and one of -them whispered something to my hostess which very much excited her -surprise. Though I was not well acquainted with the Foulah -language, I soon discovered that some of the men wished to apprehend -and carry me back to Ali, in hopes, I suppose, of receiving a -reward. I therefore tied up the corn; and lest any one should -suspect I had run away from the Moors, I took a northerly direction, -and went cheerfully along, driving my horse before me, followed by -all the boys and girls of the town. When I had travelled about two -miles, and got quit of all my troublesome attendants, I struck again -into the woods, and took shelter under a large tree, where I found -it necessary to rest myself, a bundle of twigs serving me for a bed, -and my saddle for a pillow. - -July 4.--At daybreak I pursued my course through the woods as -formerly; saw numbers of antelopes, wild hogs, and ostriches, but -the soil was more hilly, and not so fertile as I had found it the -preceding day. About eleven o'clock I ascended an eminence, where I -climbed a tree, and discovered, at about eight miles' distance, an -open part of the country, with several red spots, which I concluded -were cultivated land, and, directing my course that way, came to the -precincts of a watering-place about one o'clock. From the -appearance of the place, I judged it to belong to the Foulahs, and -was hopeful that I should meet a better reception than I had -experienced at Shrilla. In this I was not deceived, for one of the -shepherds invited me to come into his tent and partake of some -dates. This was one of those low Foulah tents in which there is -room just sufficient to sit upright, and in which the family, the -furniture, &c., seem huddled together like so many articles in a -chest. When I had crept upon my hands and knees into this humble -habitation, I found that it contained a woman and three children, -who, together with the shepherd and myself, completely occupied the -floor. A dish of boiled corn and dates was produced, and the master -of the family, as is customary in this part of the country, first -tasted it himself, and then desired me to follow his example. -Whilst I was eating, the children kept their eyes fixed upon me, and -no sooner did the shepherd pronounce the word Nazarani, than they -began to cry, and their mother crept slowly towards the door, out of -which she sprang like a greyhound, and was instantly followed by her -children. So frightened were they at the very name of a Christian, -that no entreaties could induce them to approach the tent. Here I -purchased some corn for my horse, in exchange for some brass -buttons, and having thanked the shepherd for his hospitality, struck -again into the woods. At sunset I came to a road that took the -direction for Bambarra, and resolved to follow it for the night; but -about eight o'clock, hearing some people coming from the southward, -I thought it prudent to hide myself among some thick bushes near the -road. As these thickets are generally full of wild beasts, I found -my situation rather unpleasant, sitting in the dark, holding my -horse by the nose with both hands, to prevent him from neighing, and -equally afraid of the natives without and the wild beasts within. -My fears, however, were soon dissipated; for the people, after -looking round the thicket, and perceiving nothing, went away, and I -hastened to the more open parts of the wood, where I pursued my -journey east-south-east, until past midnight, when the joyful cry of -frogs induced me once more to deviate a little from my route, in -order to quench my thirst. Having accomplished this from a large -pool of rain-water, I sought for an open place, with a single tree -in the midst, under which I made my bed for the night. I was -disturbed by some wolves towards morning, which induced me to set -forward a little before day; and having passed a small village -called Wassalita, I came about ten o'clock (July 5th), to a negro -town called Wawra, which properly belongs to Kaarta, but was at this -time tributary to Mansong, King of Bambarra. - - - -CHAPTER XV--NEGRO CURIOSITY; A MESSAGE FROM THE KING - - - -Wawra is a small town surrounded with high walls, and inhabited by a -mixture of Mandingoes and Foulahs. The inhabitants employ -themselves chiefly in cultivating corn, which they exchange with the -Moors for salt. Here, being in security from the Moors, and very -much fatigued, I resolved to rest myself; and meeting with a hearty -welcome from the dooty, whose name was Flancharee, I laid myself -down upon a bullock's hide, and slept soundly for about two hours. -The curiosity of the people would not allow me to sleep any longer. -They had seen my saddle and bridle, and were assembled in great -numbers to learn who I was and whence I came. Some were of opinion -that I was an Arab; others insisted that I was some Moorish Sultan, -and they continued to debate the matter with such warmth that the -noise awoke me. The dooty (who had formerly been at Gambia) at last -interposed in my behalf, and assured them that I was certainly a -white man; but he was convinced from my appearance that I was a poor -one. - -July 6.--It rained very much in the night, and at daylight I -departed in company with a negro who was going to a town called -Dingyee for corn; but we had not proceeded above a mile before the -ass upon which he rode threw him off, and he returned, leaving me to -prosecute the journey by myself. - -I reached Dingyee about noon, but the dooty and most of the -inhabitants had gone into the fields to cultivate corn. An old -Foulah, observing me wandering about the town, desired me to come to -his hut, where I was well entertained; and the dooty, when he -returned, sent me some victuals for myself and corn for my horse. - -July 7.--In the morning, when I was about to depart, my landlord, -with a great deal of diffidence, begged me to give him a lock of my -hair. He had been told, he said, that white men's hair made a -saphie that would give to the possessor all the knowledge of white -men. I had never before heard of so simple a mode of education, but -instantly complied with the request. - -I reached a small town called Wassiboo, about twelve o'clock, where -I was obliged to stop until an opportunity should offer of procuring -a guide to Satile, which is distant a very long day's journey, -through woods without any beaten path. I accordingly took up my -residence at the dooty's house, where I stayed four days, during -which time I amused myself by going to the fields with the family to -plant corn. Cultivation is carried on here on a very extensive -scale; and, as the natives themselves express it, "Hunger is never -known." In cultivating the soil the men and women work together. -They use a large sharp hoe, much superior to that used in Gambia, -but they are obliged, for fear of the Moors, to carry their arms -with them to the field. The master, with the handle of his spear, -marks the field into regular plats, one of which is assigned to -every three slaves. - -On the evening of the 11th eight of the fugitive Kaartans arrived at -Wassiboo. They had found it impossible to live under the tyrannical -government of the Moors, and were now going to transfer their -allegiance to the King of Bambarra. They offered to take me along -with them as far as Satile, and I accepted the offer. - -July 12.--At daybreak we set out, and travelled with uncommon -expedition until sunset. We stopped only twice in the course of the -day, once at a watering-place in the woods, and at another time at -the ruins of a town formerly belonging to Daisy, called Illa-compe -(the corn-town). When we arrived in the neighbourhood of Satile, -the people who were employed in the corn-fields, seeing so many -horsemen, took us for a party of Moors, and ran screaming away from -us. The whole town was instantly alarmed, and the slaves were seen -in every direction driving the cattle and horses towards the town. -It was in vain that one of our company galloped up to undeceive -them; it only frightened them the more; and when we arrived at the -town we found the gates shut, and the people all under arms. After -a long parley we were permitted to enter, and, as there was every -appearance of a tornado, the dooty allowed us to sleep in his -baloon, and gave us each a bullock's hide for a bed. - -July 13.--Early in the morning we again set forward. The roads were -wet and slippery, but the country was very beautiful, abounding with -rivulets, which were increased by the rain into rapid streams. -About ten o'clock we came to-the rains of a village which had been -destroyed by war about six months before. - -About noon my horse was so much fatigued that I could not keep up -with my companions; I therefore dismounted, and desired them to ride -on, telling them that I would follow as soon as my horse had rested -a little. But I found them unwilling to leave me; the lions, they -said, were very numerous in those parts, and though they might not -so readily attack a body of people, they would soon find out an -individual; it was therefore agreed that one of the company should -stay with me to assist in driving my horse, while the others passed -on to Galloo to procure lodgings, and collect grass for the horses -before night. Accompanied by this worthy negro, I drove my horse -before me until about four o'clock, when we came in sight of Galloo, -a considerable town, standing in a fertile and beautiful valley -surrounded with high rocks. - -Early next morning (July 14th), having first returned many thanks to -our landlord for his hospitality, while my fellow-travellers offered -up their prayers that he might never want, we set forward, and about -three o'clock arrived at Moorja, a large town, famous for its trade -in salt, which the Moors bring here in great quantities, to exchange -for corn and cotton cloth. As most of the people here are -Mohammedans, it is not allowed to the kafirs to drink beer, which -they call neodollo (corn spirit), except in certain houses. In one -of these I saw about twenty people sitting round large vessels of -this beer with the greatest conviviality, many of them in a state of -intoxication. - -On the morning of the 16th we again set forward, accompanied by a -coffle of fourteen asses, loaded with salt, bound for Sansanding. -The road was particularly romantic, between two rocky hills; but the -Moors sometimes lie in wait here to plunder strangers. As soon as -we had reached the open country the master of the salt coffle -thanked us for having stayed with him so long, and now desired us to -ride on. The sun was almost set before we reached Datliboo. In the -evening we had a most tremendous tornado. The house in which we -lodged being flat-roofed, admitted the rain in streams; the floor -was soon ankle-deep, the fire extinguished, and we were left to pass -the night upon some bundles of firewood that happened to lie in a -corner. - -July 17.--We departed from Datliboo, and about ten o'clock passed a -large coffle returning from Sego with corn-hoes, mats, and other -household utensils. At five o'clock we came to a large village -where we intended to pass the night, but the dooty would not receive -us. When we departed from this place my horse was so much fatigued -that I was under the necessity of driving him, and it was dark -before we reached Fanimboo, a small village, the dooty of which no -sooner heard that I was a white man than he brought out three old -muskets, and was much disappointed when he was told that I could not -repair them. - -July 18.--We continued our journey, but, owing to a light supper the -preceding night we felt ourselves rather hungry this morning, and -endeavoured to procure some corn at a village, but without success. - -My horse becoming weaker and weaker every day, was now of very -little service to me; I was obliged to drive him before me for the -greater part of the day, and did not reach Geosorro until eight -o'clock in the evening. I found my companions wrangling with the -dooty, who had absolutely refused to give or sell them any -provisions; and as none of us had tasted victuals for the last -twenty-four hours, we were by no means disposed to fast another day -if we could help it. But finding our entreaties without effect, and -being very much fatigued, I fell asleep, from which I was awakened -about midnight with the joyful information Kinne nata! ("The -victuals are come") This made the remainder of the night pass away -pleasantly, and at daybreak, July 19th, we resumed our journey, -proposing to stop at a village called Doolinkeaboo for the night -following. My fellow-travellers, having better horses than myself, -soon left me, and I was walking barefoot, driving my horse, when I -was met by a coffle of slaves, about seventy in number, coming from -Sego. They were tied together by their necks with thongs of a -bullock's hide, twisted like a rope--seven slaves upon a thong, and -a man with a musket between every seven. Many of the slaves were -ill-conditioned, and a great number of them women. In the rear came -Sidi Mahomed's servant, whom I remembered to have seen at the camp -of Benowm. He presently knew me, and told me that these slaves were -going to Morocco by the way of Ludamar and the Great Desert. - -In the afternoon, as I approached Doolinkeaboo, I met about twenty -Moors on horseback, the owners of the slaves I had seen in the -morning. They were well armed with muskets, and were very -inquisitive concerning me, but not so rude as their countrymen -generally are. From them I learned that Sidi Mahomed was not at -Sego, but had gone to Kancaba for gold-dust. - -When I arrived at Doolinkeaboo I was informed that my fellow- -travellers had gone on, but my horse was so much fatigued that I -could not possibly proceed after them. The dooty of the town at my -request gave me a draught of water, which is generally looked upon -as an earnest of greater hospitality, and I had no doubt of making -up for the toils of the day by a good supper and a sound sleep; -unfortunately, I had neither the one nor the other. The night was -rainy and tempestuous, and the dooty limited his hospitality to the -draught of water. - -July 20.--In the morning I endeavoured, both by entreaties and -threats, to procure some victuals from the dooty, but in vain. I -even begged some corn from one of his female slaves, as she was -washing it at the well, and had the mortification to be refused. -However, when the dooty was gone to the fields, his wife sent me a -handful of meal, which I mixed with water and drank for breakfast. -About eight o'clock I departed from Doolinkeaboo, and at noon -stopped a few minutes at a large korree, where I had some milk given -me by the Foulahs, and hearing that two negroes were going from -thence to Sega, I was happy to have their company, and we set out -immediately. About four o'clock we stopped at a small village, -where one of the negroes met with an acquaintance, who invited us to -a sort of public entertainment, which was conducted with more than -common propriety. A dish, made of sour milk and meal, called -sinkatoo, and beer made from their corn, was distributed with great -liberality, and the women were admitted into the society, a -circumstance I had never before observed in Africa. There was no -compulsion--every one was at liberty to drink as he pleased--they -nodded to each other when about to drink, and on setting down the -calabash commonly said Berka ("Thank you"). Both men and women -appeared to be somewhat intoxicated, but they were far from being -quarrelsome. - -Departing from thence, we passed several large villages, where I was -constantly taken for a Moor and became the subject of much merriment -to the Bambarrans, who, seeing me drive my horse before me, laughed -heartily at my appearance. "He has been at Mecca," says one, "you -may see that by his clothes;" another asked me if my horse was sick; -a third wished to purchase it, &c., so that, I believe, the very -slaves were ashamed to be seen in my company. Just before it was -dark we took up our lodging for the night at a small village, where -I procured some victuals for myself and some corn for my horse, at -the moderate price of a button; and was told that I should see the -Niger (which the negroes call Joliba, or the Great Water) early the -next day. The lions are here very numerous; the gates are shut a -little after sunset, and nobody allowed to go out. The thoughts of -seeing the Niger in the morning, and the troublesome buzzing of -mosquitoes, prevented me from shutting my eyes during the night; and -I had saddled my horse, and was in readiness before daylight, but, -on account of the wild beasts, we were obliged to wait until the -people were stirring and the gates opened. This happened to be a -market day at Sego, and the roads were everywhere filled with people -carrying different articles to sell. We passed four large villages, -and at eight o'clock saw the smoke over Sego. - -As we approached the town I was fortunate enough to overtake the -fugitive Kaartans, to whose kindness I had been so much indebted in -my journey through Bambarra. They readily agreed to introduce me to -the king; and we rode together through some marshy ground, where, as -I was anxiously looking around for the river, one of them called -out, Geo affili! ("See the water!") and, looking forwards, I saw -with infinite pleasure the great object of my mission--the long- -sought-for majestic Niger, glittering in the morning sun, as broad -as the Thames at Westminster, and flowing slowly to THE EASTWARD. I -hastened to the brink, and having drunk of the water, lifted up my -fervent thanks in prayer to the Great Ruler of all things for having -thus far crowned my endeavours with success. - -The circumstance of the Niger's flowing towards the east, and its -collateral points, did not, however, excite my surprise, for, -although I had left Europe in great hesitation on this subject, and -rather believed that it ran in the contrary direction, I had made -such frequent inquiries during my progress concerning this river, -and received from the negroes of different nations such clear and -decisive assurances that its general course was TOWARDS THE RISING -SUN, as scarce left any doubt on my mind, and more especially as I -knew that Major Houghton had collected similar information in the -same manner. - -Sego, the capital of Bambarra, at which I had now arrived, consists, -properly speaking, of four distinct towns--two on the northern bank -of the Niger, called Sego Korro and Sego Boo; and two on the -southern bank, called Sego Soo Korro and Sego See Korro. They are -all surrounded with high mud walls. The houses are built of clay, -of a square form with flat roofs--some of them have two storeys, and -many of them are whitewashed. Besides these buildings, Moorish -mosques are seen in every quarter; and the streets, though narrow, -are broad enough for every useful purpose, in a country where wheel -carriages are entirely unknown. From the best inquiries I could -make, I have reason to believe that Sego contains altogether about -thirty thousand inhabitants. The King of Bambarra constantly -resides at Sego See Korro. He employs a great many slaves in -conveying people over the river, and the money they receive (though -the fare is only ten kowrie shells for each individual) furnishes a -considerable revenue to the king in the course of a year. The -canoes are of a singular construction, each of them being formed of -the trunks of two large trees rendered concave, and joined together, -not side by side, but endways--the junction being exactly across the -middle of the canoe: they are therefore very long, and -disproportionably narrow, and have neither decks nor masts: they -are, however, very roomy, for I observed in one of them four horses -and several people crossing over the river. When we arrived at this -ferry, with a view to pass over to that part of the town in which -the king resides, we found a great number waiting for a passage: -they looked at me with silent wonder, and I distinguished with -concern many Moors among them. There were three different places of -embarkation, and the ferrymen were very diligent and expeditious; -but from the crowd of people I could not immediately obtain a -passage, and sat down upon the bank of the river to wait for a more -favourable opportunity. The view of this extensive city--the -numerous canoes upon the river--the crowded population, and the -cultivated state of the surrounding country--formed altogether a -prospect of civilisation and magnificence which I little expected to -find in the bosom of Africa. - -I waited more than two hours without having an opportunity of -crossing the river, during which time the people who had crossed -carried information to Mansong, the king, that a white man was -waiting for a passage, and was coming to see him. He immediately -sent over one of his chief men, who informed me that the king could -not possibly see me until he knew what had brought me into his -country; and that I must not presume to cross the river without the -king's permission. He therefore advised me to lodge at a distant -village, to which he pointed, for the night, and said that in the -morning he would give me further instructions how to conduct myself. -This was very discouraging. However, as there was no remedy, I set -off for the village, where I found, to my great mortification, that -no person would admit me into his house. I was regarded with -astonishment and fear, and was obliged to sit all day without -victuals in the shade of a tree; and the night threatened to be very -uncomfortable--for the wind rose, and there was great appearance of -a heavy rain--and the wild beasts are so very numerous in the -neighbourhood that I should have been under the necessity of -climbing up a tree and resting amongst the branches. About sunset, -however, as I was preparing to pass the night in this manner, and -had turned my horse loose that he might graze at liberty, a woman, -returning from the labours of the field, stopped to observe me, and -perceiving that I was weary and dejected, inquired into my -situation, which I briefly explained to her; whereupon, with looks -of great compassion, she took up my saddle and bridle, and told me -to follow her. Having conducted me into her hut, she lighted up a -lamp, spread a mat on the floor, and told me I might remain there -for the night. Finding that I was very hungry, she said she would -procure me something to eat. She accordingly went out, and returned -in a short time with a very fine fish, which, having caused to be -half broiled upon some embers, she gave me for supper. The rites of -hospitality being thus performed towards a stranger in distress, my -worthy benefactress (pointing to the mat, and telling me I might -sleep there without apprehension) called to the female part of her -family, who had stood gazing on me all the while in fixed -astonishment, to resume their task of spinning cotton, in which they -continued to employ themselves great part of the night. They -lightened their labour by songs, one of which was composed -extempore, for I was myself the subject of it. It was sung by one -of the young women, the rest joining in a sort of chorus. The air -was sweet and plaintive, and the words, literally translated, were -these:- "The winds roared, and the rains fell. The poor white man, -faint and weary, came and sat under our tree. He has no mother to -bring him milk, no wife to grind his corn. Chorus.--Let us pity the -white man, no mother has he," &c. &c. Trifling as this recital may -appear to the reader, to a person in my situation the circumstance -was affecting in the highest degree. I was oppressed by such -unexpected kindness, and sleep fled from my eyes. In the morning I -presented my compassionate landlady with two of the four brass -buttons which remained on my waistcoat--the only recompense I could -make her. - -July 21.--I continued in the village all this day in conversation -with the natives, who came in crowds to see me, but was rather -uneasy towards evening to find that no message had arrived from the -king, the more so as the people began to whisper that Mansong had -received some very unfavourable accounts of me from the Moors and -slatees residing at Sego, who, it seems, were exceedingly suspicious -concerning the motives of my journey. I learned that many -consultations had been held with the king concerning my reception -and disposal; and some of the villagers frankly told me that I had -many enemies, and must expect no favour. - -July 22.--About eleven o'clock a messenger arrived from the king, -but he gave me very little satisfaction. He inquired particularly -if I had brought any present, and seemed much disappointed when he -was told that I had been robbed of everything by the Moors. When I -proposed to go along with him, he told me to stop until the -afternoon, when the king would send for me. - -July 23.--In the afternoon another messenger arrived from Mansong, -with a bag in his hands. He told me it was the king's pleasure that -I should depart forthwith from the vicinage of Sego; but that -Mansong, wishing to relieve a white man in distress, had sent me -five thousand kowries, to enable me to purchase provisions in the -course of my journey: the messenger added, that if my intentions -were really to proceed to Jenne, he had orders to accompany me as a -guide to Sansanding. I was at first puzzled to account for this -behaviour of the king; but from the conversation I had with the -guide, I had afterwards reason to believe that Mansong would -willingly have admitted me into his presence at Sego, but was -apprehensive he might not be able to protect me against the blind -and inveterate malice of the Moorish inhabitants. His conduct, -therefore, was at once prudent and liberal. The circumstances under -which I made my appearance at Sego were undoubtedly such as might -create in the mind of the king a well-warranted suspicion that I -wished to conceal the true object of my journey. He argued, -probably, as my guide argued, who, when he was told that I had come -from a great distance, and through many dangers, to behold the -Joliba river, naturally inquired if there were no rivers in my own -country, and whether one river was not like another. -Notwithstanding this, and in spite of the jealous machinations of -the Moors, this benevolent prince thought it sufficient that a white -man was found in his dominions, in a condition of extreme -wretchedness, and that no other plea was necessary to entitle the -sufferer to his bounty. - - - -Footnotes: - -{1} I believe that similar charms or amulets, under the names of -domini, grigri, fetich, &c., are common in all parts of Africa. - -{2} Maana is within a short distance of the ruins of Fort St. -Joseph, on the Senegal river, formerly a French factory. - - - - -*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK, TRAVELS IN AFRICA - VOLUME 1 *** - -This file should be named mng110.txt or mng110.zip -Corrected EDITIONS of our eBooks get a new NUMBER, mng111.txt -VERSIONS based on separate sources get new LETTER, mng110a.txt - -Project Gutenberg eBooks are often created from several printed -editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the US -unless a copyright notice is included. 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FOR PUBLIC DOMAIN EBOOKS*Ver.02/11/02*END* - diff --git a/old/mng110.zip b/old/mng110.zip Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 49ed21a..0000000 --- a/old/mng110.zip +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/mng110h.htm b/old/mng110h.htm deleted file mode 100644 index 79d6260..0000000 --- a/old/mng110h.htm +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4710 +0,0 @@ -<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.01//EN"> -<html> -<head> -<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=US-ASCII"> -<title>Travels in the Interior of Africa - Volume 1</title> -</head> -<body> -<h2> -<a href="#startoftext">Travels in the Interior of Africa - Volume 1, by Mungo Park</a> -</h2> -<pre> -The Project Gutenberg EBook of Travels in the Interior of Africa - Volume 1 -by Mungo Park -(#1 in our series by Mungo Park) - -Copyright laws are changing all over the world. 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You can also find out about how to make a -donation to Project Gutenberg, and how to get involved. - - -**Welcome To The World of Free Plain Vanilla Electronic Texts** - -**eBooks Readable By Both Humans and By Computers, Since 1971** - -*****These eBooks Were Prepared By Thousands of Volunteers!***** - - -Title: Travels in the Interior of Africa - Volume 1 - -Author: Mungo Park - -Release Date: March, 2004 [EBook #5266] -[Yes, we are more than one year ahead of schedule] -[This file was first posted on June 20, 2002] -[Most recently updated: June 20, 2002] - -Edition: 10 - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ASCII -</pre> -<p> -<a name="startoftext"></a> -Transcribed from the 1893 Cassell & Company edition by David Price, -email ccx074@coventry.ac.uk<br> -<br> -<br> -<br> -<br> -TRAVELS IN THE INTERIOR OF AFRICA - VOLUME 1<br> -<br> -<br> -<br> -<br> -INTRODUCTION<br> -<br> -<br> -<br> -Mungo Park was born on the 10th of September, 1771, the son of a farmer -at Fowlshiels, near Selkirk. After studying medicine in Edinburgh, -he went out, at the age of twenty-one, assistant-surgeon in a ship bound -for the East Indies. When he came back the African Society was -in want of an explorer, to take the place of Major Houghton, who had -died. Mungo Park volunteered, was accepted, and in his twenty-fourth -year, on the 22nd of May, 1795, he sailed for the coasts of Senegal, -where he arrived in June.<br> -<br> -Thence he proceeded on the travels of which this book is the record. -He was absent from England for a little more than two years and a half; -returned a few days before Christmas, 1797. He was then twenty-six -years old. The African Association published the first edition -of his travels as “Travels in the Interior Districts of Africa, -1795-7, by Mungo Park, with an Appendix containing Geographical Illustrations -of Africa, by Major Rennell.”<br> -<br> -Park married, and settled at Peebles in medical practice, but was persuaded -by the Government to go out again. He sailed from Portsmouth on -the 30th of January, 1805, resolved to trace the Niger to its source -or perish in the attempt. He perished. The natives attacked -him while passing through a narrow strait of the river at Boussa, and -killed him, with all that remained of his party, except one slave. -The record of this fatal voyage, partly gathered from his journals, -and closed by evidences of the manner of his death, was first published -in 1815, as “The Journal of a Mission to the Interior of Africa -in 1805, by Mungo Park, together with other Documents, Official and -Private, relating to the same Mission. To which is prefixed an -Account of the Life of Mr. Park.”<br> -<br> -H. M.<br> -<br> -<br> -<br> -CHAPTER I - JOURNEY FROM PORTSMOUTH TO THE GAMBIA<br> -<br> -<br> -<br> -Soon after my return from the East Indies in 1793, having learned that -the noblemen and gentlemen associated for the purpose of prosecuting -discoveries in the interior of Africa were desirous of engaging a person -to explore that continent, by the way of the Gambia river, I took occasion, -through means of the President of the Royal Society, to whom I had the -honour to be known, of offering myself for that service. I had -been informed that a gentleman of the name of Houghton, a captain in -the army, and formerly fort-major at Goree, had already sailed to the -Gambia, under the direction of the Association, and that there was reason -to apprehend he had fallen a sacrifice to the climate, or perished in -some contest with the natives. But this intelligence, instead -of deterring me from my purpose, animated me to persist in the offer -of my services with the greater solicitude. I had a passionate -desire to examine into the productions of a country so little known, -and to become experimentally acquainted with the modes of life and character -of the natives. I knew that I was able to bear fatigue, and I -relied on my youth and the strength of my constitution to preserve me -from the effects of the climate. The salary which the committee -allowed was sufficiently large, and I made no stipulation for future -reward. If I should perish in my journey, I was willing that my -hopes and expectations should perish with me; and if I should succeed -in rendering the geography of Africa more familiar to my countrymen, -and in opening to their ambition and industry new sources of wealth -and new channels of commerce, I knew that I was in the hands of men -of honour, who would not fail to bestow that remuneration which my successful -services should appear to them to merit. The committee of the -Association having made such inquiries as they thought necessary, declared -themselves satisfied with the qualifications that I possessed, and accepted -me for the service; and, with that liberality which on all occasions -distinguishes their conduct, gave me every encouragement which it was -in their power to grant, or which I could with propriety ask.<br> -<br> -It was at first proposed that I should accompany Mr. James Willis, who -was then recently appointed consul at Senegambia, and whose countenance -in that capacity, it was thought, might have served and protected me; -but Government afterwards rescinded his appointment, and I lost that -advantage. The kindness of the committee, however, supplied all -that was necessary. Being favoured by the secretary of the Association, -the late Henry Beaufoy, Esq., with a recommendation to Dr. John Laidley -(a gentleman who had resided many years at an English factory on the -banks of the Gambia), and furnished with a letter of credit on him for -£200, I took my passage in the brig <i>Endeavour </i>- a small -vessel trading to the Gambia for beeswax and ivory, commanded by Captain -Richard Wyatt - and I became impatient for my departure.<br> -<br> -My instructions were very plain and concise. I was directed, on -my arrival in Africa, “to pass on to the river Niger, either by -way of Bambouk, or by such other route as should be found most convenient. -That I should ascertain the course, and, if possible, the rise and termination -of that river. That I should use my utmost exertions to visit -the principal towns or cities in its neighbourhood, particularly Timbuctoo -and Houssa; and that I should be afterwards at liberty to return to -Europe, either by the way of the Gambia, or by such other route as, -under all the then existing circumstances of my situation and prospects, -should appear to me to be most advisable.”<br> -<br> -We sailed from Portsmouth on the 22nd day of May, 1795. On the -4th of June we saw the mountains over Mogadore, on the coast of Africa; -and on the 21st of the same month, after a pleasant voyage of thirty -days, we anchored at Jillifrey, a town on the northern bank of the river -Gambia, opposite to James’s Island, where the English had formerly -a small fort.<br> -<br> -The kingdom of Barra, in which the town of Jillifrey is situated, produces -great plenty of the necessaries of life; but the chief trade of the -inhabitants is in salt, which commodity they carry up the river in canoes -as high as Barraconda, and bring down in return Indian corn, cotton -cloths, elephants’ teeth, small quantities of gold dust, &c. -The number of canoes and people constantly employed in this trade makes -the king of Barra more formidable to Europeans than any other chieftain -on the river; and this circumstance probably encouraged him to establish -those exorbitant duties which traders of all nations are obliged to -pay at entry, amounting to nearly £20 on every vessel, great and -small. These duties or customs are generally collected in person -by the <i>alkaid</i>, or governor of Jillifrey, and he is attended on -these occasions by a numerous train of dependants, among whom are found -many who, by their frequent intercourse with the English, have acquired -a smattering of our language: but they are commonly very noisy and very -troublesome, begging for everything they fancy with such earnestness -and importunity, that traders, in order to get quit of them, are frequently -obliged to grant their requests.<br> -<br> -On the 23rd we departed from Jillifrey, and proceeded to Vintain, a -town situated about two miles up a creek on the southern side of the -river. This place is much resorted to by Europeans on account -of the great quantities of beeswax which are brought hither for sale; -the wax is collected in the woods by the Feloops, a wild and unsociable -race of people. Their country, which is of considerable extent, -abounds in rice; and the natives supply the traders, both on the Gambia -and Cassamansa rivers, with that article, and also with goats and poultry, -on very reasonable terms. The honey which they collect is chiefly -used by themselves in making a strong intoxicating liquor, much the -same as the mead which is produced from honey in Great Britain.<br> -<br> -In their traffic with Europeans, the Feloops generally employ a factor -or agent of the Mandingo nation, who speaks a little English, and is -acquainted with the trade of the river. This broker makes the -bargain; and, with the connivance of the European, receives a certain -part only of the payment, which he gives to his employer as the whole; -the remainder (which is very truly called the <i>cheating money</i>) -he receives when the Feloop is gone, and appropriates to himself as -a reward for his trouble.<br> -<br> -The language of the Feloops is appropriate and peculiar; and as their -trade is chiefly conducted, as hath been observed, by Mandingoes, the -Europeans have no inducement to learn it.<br> -<br> -On the 26th we left Vintain, and continued our course up the river, -anchoring whenever the tide failed us, and frequently towing the vessel -with the boat. The river is deep and muddy; the banks are covered -with impenetrable thickets of mangrove; and the whole of the adjacent -country appears to be flat and swampy.<br> -<br> -The Gambia abounds with fish, some species of which are excellent food; -but none of them that I recollect are known in Europe. At the -entrance from the sea sharks are found in great abundance, and, higher -up, alligators and the hippopotamus (or river-horse) are very numerous.<br> -<br> -In six days after leaving Vintain we reached Jonkakonda, a place of -considerable trade, where our vessel was to take in part of her lading. -The next morning the several European traders came from their different -factories to receive their letters, and learn the nature and amount -of her cargo; and the captain despatched a messenger to Dr. Laidley -to inform him of my arrival. He came to Jonkakonda the morning -following, when I delivered him Mr. Beaufoy’s letter, and he gave -me a kind invitation to spend my time at his house until an opportunity -should offer of prosecuting my journey. This invitation was too -acceptable to be refused, and being furnished by the Doctor with a horse -and guide, I set out from Jonkakonda at daybreak on the 5th of July, -and at eleven o’clock arrived at Pisania, where I was accommodated -with a room and other conveniences in the Doctor’s house.<br> -<br> -Pisania is a small village in the king of Yany’s dominions, established -by British subjects as a factory for trade, and inhabited solely by -them and their black servants. It is situated on the banks of -the Gambia, sixteen miles above Jonkakonda. The white residents, -at the time of may arrival there, consisted only of Dr. Laidley, and -two gentlemen who were brothers, of the name of Ainsley; but their domestics -were numerous. They enjoyed perfect security under the king’s -protection, and being highly esteemed and respected by the natives at -large, wanted no accommodation or comfort which the country could supply, -and the greatest part of the trade in slaves, ivory, and gold was in -their hands.<br> -<br> -Being now settled for some time at my ease, my first object was to learn -the Mandingo tongue, being the language in almost general use throughout -this part of Africa, and without which I was fully convinced that I -never could acquire an extensive knowledge of the country or its inhabitants. -In this pursuit I was greatly assisted by Dr. Laidley.<br> -<br> -In researches of this kind, and in observing the manners and customs -of the natives, in a country so little known to the nations of Europe, -and furnished with so many striking and uncommon objects of nature, -my time passed not unpleasantly, and I began to flatter myself that -I had escaped the fever, or seasoning, to which Europeans, on their -first arrival in hot climates, are generally subject. But on the -31st of July I imprudently exposed myself to the night-dew in observing -an eclipse of the moon, with a view to determine the longitude of the -place; the next day I found myself attacked with a smart fever and delirium, -and such an illness followed as confined me to the house during the -greatest part of August. My recovery was very slow, but I embraced -every short interval of convalescence to walk out, and make myself acquainted -with the productions of the country.<br> -<br> -In one of those excursions, having rambled farther than usual, on a -hot day, I brought on a return of my fever, and on the 10th of September -I was again confined to my bed. The fever, however, was not so -violent as before; and in the course of three weeks I was able, when -the weather would permit, to renew my botanical excursions; and when -it rained, I amused myself with drawing plants, &c., in my chamber. -The care and attention of Dr. Laidley contributed greatly to alleviate -my sufferings; his company and conversation beguiled the tedious hours -during that gloomy season, when the rain falls in torrents; when suffocating -heats oppress by day, and when the night is spent by the terrified travellers -in listening to the croaking of frogs (of which the numbers are beyond -imagination), the shrill cry of the jackal, and the deep howling of -the hyæna, a dismal concert, interrupted only by the roar of such -tremendous thunder as no person can form a conception of but those who -have heard it.<br> -<br> -The country itself being an immense level, and very generally covered -with wood, presents a tiresome and gloomy uniformity to the eye; but -although Nature has denied to the inhabitants the beauties of romantic -landscapes, she has bestowed on them, with a liberal hand, the more -important blessings of fertility and abundance. A little attention -to cultivation procures a sufficiency of corn, the fields afford a rich -pasturage for cattle, and the natives are plentifully supplied with -excellent fish, both from the Gambia river and the Walli creek.<br> -<br> -The grains which are chiefly cultivated are - Indian corn (<i>zea mays</i>); -two kinds of <i>holcus</i> <i>spicatus</i>, called by the natives <i>soono</i> -and <i>sanio; holcus niger</i>, and <i>holcus</i> <i>bicolor</i>, the -former of which they have named <i>bassi woolima</i>, and the latter -<i>bassiqui</i>. These, together with rice, are raised in considerable -quantities; besides which, the inhabitants in the vicinity of the towns -and villages have gardens which produce onions, calavances, yams, cassavi, -ground nuts, pompions, gourds, water-melons, and some other esculent -plants.<br> -<br> -I observed likewise, near the towns, small patches of cotton and indigo. -The former of these articles supplies them with clothing, and with the -latter they dye their cloth of an excellent blue colour, in a manner -that will hereafter be described.<br> -<br> -In preparing their corn for food, the natives use a large wooden mortar -called a <i>paloon</i>, in which they bruise the seed until it parts -with the outer covering, or husk, which is then separated from the clean -corn by exposing it to the wind, nearly in the same manner as wheat -is cleared from the chaff in England. The corn thus freed from -the husk is returned to the mortar and beaten into meal, which is dressed -variously in different countries; but the most common preparation of -it among the nations of the Gambia is a sort of pudding which they call -<i>kouskous</i>. It is made by first moistening the flour with -water, and then stirring and shaking it about in a large calabash, or -gourd, till it adheres together in small granules resembling sago. -It is then put into an earthen pot, whose bottom is perforated with -a number of small holes; and this pot being placed upon another, the -two vessels are luted together either with a paste of meal and water, -or with cows’ dung, and placed upon the fire. In the lower -vessel is commonly some animal food and water, the steam or vapour of -which ascends through the perforations in the bottom of the upper vessel, -and softens and the kouskous, which is very much esteemed throughout -all the countries that I visited. I am informed that the same -manner of preparing flour is very generally used on the Barbary coast, -and that the dish so prepared is there called by the same name. -It is therefore probable that the negroes borrowed the practice from -the Moors.<br> -<br> -Their domestic animals are nearly the same as in Europe. Swine -are found in the woods, but their flesh is not esteemed. Probably -the marked abhorrence in which this animal is held by the votaries of -Mohammed has spread itself among the pagans. Poultry of all kinds, -the turkey excepted, is everywhere to be had. The guinea-fowl -and red partridge abound in the fields, and the woods furnish a small -species of antelope, of which the venison is highly and deservedly prized.<br> -<br> -Of the other wild animals in the Mandingo countries, the most common -are the hyæna, the panther, and the elephant. Considering -the use that is made of the latter in the East Indies, it may be thought -extraordinary that the natives of Africa have not, in any part of this -immense continent, acquired the skill of taming this powerful and docile -creature, and applying his strength and faculties to the service of -man. When I told some of the natives that this was actually done -in the countries of the East, my auditors laughed me to scorn, and exclaimed, -“<i>Tobaubo fonnio</i>!” (“A white man’s lie!”) -The negroes frequently find means to destroy the elephant by firearms; -they hunt it principally for the sake of the teeth, which they transfer -in barter to those who sell them again to the Europeans. The flesh -they eat, and consider it as a great delicacy.<br> -<br> -On the 6th of October the waters of the Gambia were at the greatest -height, being fifteen feet above the high-water mark of the tide, after -which they began to subside, at first slowly, but afterwards very rapidly, -sometimes sinking more than a foot in twenty-four hours. By the -beginning of November the river had sunk to its former level, and the -tide ebbed and flowed as usual. When the river had subsided, and -the atmosphere grew dry, I recovered apace, and began to think of my -departure, for this is reckoned the most proper season for travelling. -The natives had completed their harvest, and provisions were everywhere -cheap and plentiful.<br> -<br> -Dr. Laidley was at this time employed in a trading voyage at Jonkakonda. -I wrote to him to desire that he would use his interest with the <i>slatees</i>, -or slave-merchants, to procure me the company and protection of the -first <i>coffle</i> (or caravan) that might leave Gambia for the interior -country; and, in the meantime, I requested him to purchase for me a -horse and two asses. A few days afterwards the Doctor returned -to Pisania, and informed me that a coffle would certainly go for the -interior in the course of the dry season; but that, as many of the merchants -belonging to it had not yet completed their assortment of goods, he -could not say at what time they would set out.<br> -<br> -As the characters and dispositions of the slatees, and people that composed -the caravan, were entirely unknown to me - and as they seemed rather -averse to my purpose, and unwilling to enter into any positive engagements -on my account - and the time of their departure being withal very uncertain, -I resolved, on further deliberation, to avail myself of the dry season, -and proceed without them.<br> -<br> -Dr. Laidley approved my determination, and promised me every assistance -in his power to enable me to prosecute my journey with comfort and safety.<br> -<br> -This resolution having been formed, I made preparations accordingly.<br> -<br> -And now, being about to take leave of my hospitable friend (whose kindness -and solicitude continued to the moment of my departure), and to quit -for many months the countries bordering on the Gambia, it seems proper, -before I proceed with my narrative, that I should in this place give -some account of the several negro nations which inhabit the banks of -this celebrated river, and the commercial intercourse that subsists -between them, and such of the nations of Europe as find their advantage -in trading to this part of Africa. The observations which have -occurred to me on both these subjects will be found in the following -chapter.<br> -<br> -<br> -<br> -CHAPTER II - LANGUAGE AND RELIGION OF THE NATIVES<br> -<br> -<br> -<br> -The natives of the countries bordering on the Gambia, though distributed -into a great many distinct governments, may, I think, be divided into -four great classes - the Feloops, the Jaloffs, the Foulahs, and the -Mandingoes. Among all these nations, the religion of Mohammed -has made, and continues to make, considerable progress; but in most -of them the body of the people, both free and enslaved, persevere in -maintaining the blind but harmless superstitions of their ancestors, -and are called by the Mohammedans <i>kafirs</i>, or infidels.<br> -<br> -Of the Feloops, I have little to add to what has been observed concerning -them in the former chapter. They are of a gloomy disposition, -and are supposed never to forgive an injury. They are even said -to transmit their quarrels as deadly feuds to their posterity, insomuch -that a son considers it as incumbent on him, from a just sense of filial -obligation, to become the avenger of his deceased father’s wrongs. -If a man loses his life in one of these sudden quarrels which perpetually -occur at their feasts, when the whole party is intoxicated with mead, -his son, or the eldest of his sons (if he has more than one), endeavours -to procure his father’s sandals, which he wears <i>once</i> <i>a -year</i>, on the anniversary of his father’s death, until a fit -opportunity offers of revenging his fate, when the object of his resentment -seldom escapes his pursuit. This fierce and unrelenting disposition -is, however, counterbalanced by many good qualities: they display the -utmost gratitude and affection towards their benefactors, and the fidelity -with which they preserve whatever is entrusted to them is remarkable. -During the present war, they have more than once taken up arms to defend -our merchant vessels from French privateers; and English property of -considerable value has frequently been left at Vintain for a long time -entirely under the care of the Feloops, who have uniformly manifested -on such occasions the strictest honesty and punctuality. How greatly -is it to be wished that the minds of a people so determined and faithful -could be softened and civilised by the mild and benevolent spirit of -Christianity!<br> -<br> -The Jaloffs (or Yaloffs) are an active, powerful, and warlike race, -inhabiting great part of that tract which lies between the river Senegal -and the Mandingo states on the Gambia; yet they differ from the Mandingoes -not only in language, but likewise in complexion and features. -The noses of the Jaloffs are not so much depressed, nor the lips so -protuberant, as among the generality of Africans; and although their -skin is of the deepest black, they are considered by the white traders -as the most sightly negroes on this part of the continent.<br> -<br> -Their language is said to be copious and significant, and is often learnt -by Europeans trading to Senegal.<br> -<br> -The Foulahs (or Pholeys), such of them at least as reside near the Gambia, -are chiefly of a tawny complexion, with soft silky hair, and pleasing -features. They are much attached to a pastoral life, and have -introduced themselves into all the kingdoms on the windward coast as -herdsmen and husbandmen, paying a tribute to the sovereign of the country -for the lands which they hold. Not having many opportunities, -however, during my residence at Pisania, of improving my acquaintance -with these people, I defer entering at large into their character until -a fitter occasion occurs, which will present itself when I come to Bondou.<br> -<br> -The Mandingoes, of whom it remains to speak, constitute, in truth, the -bulk of the inhabitants in all those districts of Africa which I visited; -and their language, with a few exceptions, is universally understood -and very generally spoken in that part of the continent.<br> -<br> -They are called Mandingoes, I conceive, as having originally migrated -from the interior state of Manding, of which some account will hereafter -be given.<br> -<br> -In every considerable town there is a chief magistrate, called the <i>alkaid, -</i>whose office is hereditary, and whose business it is to preserve -order, to levy duties on travellers, and to preside at all conferences -in the exercise of local jurisdiction and the administration of justice. -These courts are composed of the elders of the town (of free condition), -and are termed <i>palavers; </i>and their proceedings are conducted -in the open air with sufficient solemnity. Both sides of a question -are freely canvassed, witnesses are publicly examined, and the decisions -which follow generally meet with the approbation of the surrounding -audience.<br> -<br> -As the negroes have no written language of their own, the general rule -of decision is an appeal to <i>ancient custom; </i>but since the system -of Mohammed has made so great progress among them, the converts to that -faith have gradually introduced, with the religious tenets, many of -the civil institutions of the prophet; and where the Koran is not found -sufficiently explicit, recourse is had to a commentary called <i>Al -Sharra, </i>containing, as I was told, a complete exposition or digest -of the Mohammedan laws, both civil and criminal, properly arranged and -illustrated.<br> -<br> -This frequency of appeal to written laws, with which the pagan natives -are necessarily unacquainted, has given rise in their palavers to (what -I little expected to find in Africa) professional advocates, or expounders -of the law, who are allowed to appear and to plead for plaintiff or -defendant, much in the same manner as counsel in the law-courts of Great -Britain. They are Mohammedan negroes, who have made, or affect -to have made, the laws of the prophet their peculiar study; and if I -may judge from their harangues, which I frequently attended, I believe, -that in the forensic qualifications of procrastination and cavil, and -the arts of confounding and perplexing a cause, they are not always -surpassed by the ablest pleaders in Europe. While I was at Pisania, -a cause was heard which furnished the Mohammedan lawyers with an admirable -opportunity of displaying their professional dexterity. The case -was this:- An ass belonging to a Serawoolli negro (a native of an interior -country near the river Senegal) had broke into a field of corn belonging -to one of the Mandingo inhabitants, and destroyed great part of it. -The Mandingo having caught the animal in his field, immediately drew -his knife and cut his throat. The Serawoolli thereupon called -a <i>palaver </i>(or in European terms, <i>brought an action) </i>to -recover damages for the loss of his beast, on which he set a high value. -The defendant confessed he had killed the ass, but pleaded a <i>set-off</i>, -insisting that the loss he had sustained by the ravage in his corn was -equal to the sum demanded for the animal. To ascertain this fact -was the point at issue, and the learned advocates contrived to puzzle -the cause in such a manner that, after a hearing of three days, the -court broke up without coming to any determination upon it; and a second -palaver was, I suppose, thought necessary.<br> -<br> -The Mandingoes, generally speaking, are of a mild, sociable, and obliging -disposition. The men are commonly above the middle size, well-shaped, -strong, and capable of enduring great labour. The women are good-natured, -sprightly, and agreeable. The dress of both sexes is composed -of cotton cloth of their own manufacture: that of the men is a loose -frock, not unlike a surplice, with drawers which reach half-way down -the leg; and they wear sandals on their feet, and white cotton caps -on their heads. The women’s dress consists of two pieces -of cloth, each of which is about six feet long and three broad. -One of these they wrap round their waist, which, hanging down to the -ankles, answers the purpose of a petticoat; the other is thrown negligently -over the bosom and shoulders.<br> -<br> -This account of their clothing is indeed nearly applicable to the natives -of all the different countries in this part of Africa; a peculiar national -mode is observable only in the head-dresses of the women.<br> -<br> -Thus, in the countries of the Gambia, the females wear a sort of bandage, -which they call <i>jalla</i>. It is a narrow strip of cotton cloth -wrapped many times round, immediately over the forehead. In Bondou, -the head is encircled with strings of white beads, and a small plate -of gold is worn in the middle of the forehead. In Kasson the ladies -decorate their heads in a very tasteful and elegant manner with white -seashells. In Kaarta and Ludamar, the women raise their hair to -a great height by the addition of a pad (as the ladies did formerly -in Great Britain), which they decorate with a species of coral brought -from the Red Sea by pilgrims returning from Mecca, and sold at a great -price.<br> -<br> -In the construction of their dwelling-houses the Mandingoes also conform -to the general practice of the African nations in this part of the continent, -contenting themselves with small and incommodious hovels. A circular -mud wall, about four feet high, upon which is placed a conical roof, -composed of the bamboo cane, and thatched with grass, forms alike the -palace of the king and the hovel of the slave. Their household -furniture is equally simple. A hurdle of canes placed upon upright -sticks, about two feet from the ground, upon which is spread a mat or -bullock’s hide, answers the purpose of a bed; a water jar, some -earthen pots for dressing their food; a few wooden bowls and calabashes, -and one or two low stools, compose the rest.<br> -<br> -As every man of free condition has a plurality of wives, it is found -necessary (to prevent, I suppose, matrimonial disputes) that each of -the ladies should be accommodated with a hut to herself; and all the -huts belonging to the same family are surrounded by a fence constructed -of bamboo canes, split and formed into a sort of wicker-work. -The whole enclosure is called a <i>sirk</i>, or <i>surk</i>. A -number of these enclosures, with narrow passages between them, form -what is called a town; but the huts are generally placed without any -regularity, according to the caprice of the owner. The only rule -that seems to be attended to is placing the door towards the south-west, -in order to admit the sea-breeze.<br> -<br> -In each town is a large stage called the <i>bentang</i>, which answers -the purpose of a public hall or town house. It is composed of -interwoven canes, and is generally sheltered from the sun by being erected -in the shade of some large tree. It is here that all public affairs -are transacted and trials conducted; and here the lazy and indolent -meet to smoke their pipes, and hear the news of the day. In most -of the towns the Mohammedans have also a <i>missura</i>, or mosque, -in which they assemble and offer up their daily prayers, according to -the rules of the Koran.<br> -<br> -In the account which I have thus given of the natives, the reader must -bear in mind that my observations apply chiefly to persons of <i>free -condition</i>, who constitute, I suppose, not more than one-fourth part -of the inhabitants at large. The other three-fourths are in a -state of hopeless and hereditary slavery, and are employed in cultivating -the land, in the care of cattle, and in servile offices of all kinds, -much in the same manner as the slaves in the West Indies. I was -told, however, that the Mandingo master can neither deprive his slave -of life, nor sell him to a stranger, without first calling a palaver -on his conduct, or in other words, bringing him to a public trial. -But this degree of protection is extended only to the native or domestic -slave. Captives taken in war, and those unfortunate victims who -are condemned to slavery for crimes or insolvency - and, in short, all -those unhappy people who are brought down from the interior countries -for sale - have no security whatever, but may be treated and disposed -of in all respects as the owner thinks proper. It sometimes happens, -indeed, when no ships are on the coast, that a humane and considerate -master incorporates his purchased slaves among his domestics; and their -offspring at least, if not the parents, become entitled to all the privileges -of the native class.<br> -<br> -The earliest European establishment on this celebrated river was a factory -of the Portuguese, and to this must be ascribed the introduction of -the numerous words of that language which are still in use among the -negroes. The Dutch, French, and English afterwards successively -possessed themselves of settlements on the coast; but the trade of the -Gambia became, and continued for many years, a sort of monopoly in the -hands of the English. In the travels of Francis Moore is preserved -an account of the Royal African Company’s establishments in this -river in the year 1730; at which the James’s factory alone consisted -of a governor, deputy-governor, and two other principal officers; eight -factors, thirteen writers, twenty inferior attendants and tradesmen; -a company of soldiers, and thirty-two negro servants; besides sloops, -shallops, and boats, with their crews; and there were no less than eight -subordinate factories in other parts of the river.<br> -<br> -The trade with Europe, by being afterwards laid open, was almost annihilated. -The share which the subjects of England at this time hold in it supports -not more than two or three annual ships; and I am informed that the -gross value of British exports is under £20,000. The French -and Danes still maintain a small share, and the Americans have lately -sent a few vessels to the Gambia by way of experiment.<br> -<br> -The commodities exported to the Gambia from Europe consist chiefly of -firearms and ammunition, iron-ware, spirituous liquors, tobacco, cotton -caps, a small quantity of broadcloth, and a few articles of the manufacture -of Manchester; a small assortment of India goods, with some glass beads, -amber, and other trifles, for which are taken in exchange slaves, gold -dust, ivory, beeswax, and hides. Slaves are the chief article, -but the whole number which at this time are annually exported from the -Gambia by all nations is supposed to be under one thousand.<br> -<br> -Most of these unfortunate victims are brought to the coast in periodical -caravans; many of them from very remote inland countries, for the language -which they speak is not understood by the inhabitants of the maritime -districts. In a subsequent part of my work I shall give the best -information I have been able to collect concerning the manner in which -they are obtained. On their arrival at the coast, if no immediate -opportunity offers of selling them to advantage, they are distributed -among the neighbouring villages, until a slave ship arrives, or until -they can be sold to black traders, who sometimes purchase on speculation. -In the meanwhile, the poor wretches are kept constantly fettered, two -and two of them being chained together, and employed in the labours -of the field, and, I am sorry to add, are very scantily fed, as well -as harshly treated. The price of a slave varies according to the -number of purchasers from Europe, and the arrival of caravans from the -interior; but in general I reckon that a young and healthy male, from -sixteen to twenty-five years of age, may be estimated on the spot from -£18 to £20 sterling.<br> -<br> -The negro slave-merchants, as I have observed in the former chapter, -are called slatees, who, besides slaves, and the merchandise which they -bring for sale to the whites, supply the inhabitants of the maritime -districts with native iron, sweet-smelling gums and frankincense, and -a commodity called <i>shea-toulou</i>, which, literally translated, -signifies <i>tree-butter</i>.<br> -<br> -In payment of these articles, the maritime states supply the interior -countries with salt, a scarce and valuable commodity, as I frequently -and painfully experienced in the course of my journey. Considerable -quantities of this article, however, are also supplied to the inland -natives by the Moors, who obtain it from the salt pits in the Great -Desert, and receive in return corn, cotton cloth, and slaves.<br> -<br> -In their early intercourse with Europeans the article that attracted -most notice was iron. Its utility, in forming the instruments -of war and husbandry, make it preferable to all others, and iron soon -became the measure by which the value of all other commodities was ascertained. -Thus, a certain quantity of goods, of whatever denomination, appearing -to be equal in value to a bar of iron, constituted, in the traders’ -phraseology, a bar of that particular merchandise. Twenty leaves -of tobacco, for instance, were considered as a bar of tobacco; and a -gallon of spirits (or rather half spirits and half water) as a bar of -rum, a bar of one commodity being reckoned equal in value to a bar of -another commodity.<br> -<br> -As, however, it must unavoidably happen that, according to the plenty -or scarcity of goods at market in proportion to the demand, the relative -value would be subject to continual fluctuation, greater precision has -been found necessary; and at this time the current value of a single -bar of any kind is fixed by the whites at two shillings sterling. -Thus, a slave whose price is £15, is said to be worth 150 bars.<br> -<br> -In transactions of this nature it is obvious that the white trader has -infinitely the advantage over the African, whom, therefore, it is difficult -to satisfy, for conscious of his own ignorance, he naturally becomes -exceedingly suspicious and wavering; and, indeed, so very unsettled -and jealous are the negroes in their dealings with the whites, that -a bargain is never considered by the European as concluded until the -purchase money is paid and the party has taken leave.<br> -<br> -Having now brought together such general observations on the country -and its inhabitants as occurred to me during my residence in the vicinity -of the Gambia, I shall detain the reader no longer with introductory -matter, but proceed, in the next chapter, to a regular detail of the -incidents which happened, and the reflections which arose in my mind, -in the course of my painful and perilous journey, from its commencement -until my return to the Gambia.<br> -<br> -<br> -<br> -CHAPTER III - THE KINGDOM OF WOOLLI - JOURNEY TO BONDOU<br> -<br> -<br> -<br> -On the 2nd of December, 1795, I took my departure from the hospitable -mansion of Dr. Laidley. I was fortunately provided with a negro -servant who spoke both the English and Mandingo tongues. His name -was Johnson. He was a native of this part of Africa, and having -in his youth been conveyed to Jamaica as a slave, he had been made free, -and taken to England by his master, where he had resided many years, -and at length found his way back to his native country. As he -was known to Dr. Laidley, the Doctor recommended him to me, and I hired -him as my interpreter, at the rate of ten bars monthly to be paid to -himself, and five bars a month to be paid to his wife during his absence. -Dr. Laidley furthermore provided me with a negro boy of his own, named -Demba, a sprightly youth, who, besides Mandingo, spoke the language -of the Serawoollies, an inland people (of whom mention will hereafter -be made) residing on the banks of the Senegal; and to induce him to -behave well, the Doctor promised him his freedom on his return, in case -I should report favourably of his fidelity and services. I was -furnished with a horse for myself (a small but very hardy and spirited -beast, which cost me to the value of £7 10s), and two asses for -my interpreter and servant. My baggage was light, consisting chiefly -of provisions for two days; a small assortment of beads, amber, and -tobacco, for the purchase of a fresh supply as I proceeded; a few changes -of linen, and other necessary apparel; an umbrella, a pocket sextant, -a magnetic compass, and a thermometer; together with two fowling-pieces, -two pair of pistols, and some other small articles.<br> -<br> -A free man (a <i>bashreen</i>, or Mohammedan) named Madiboo, who was -travelling to the kingdom of Bambara, and two slatees, or slave merchants, -of the Serawoolli nation, and of the same sect, who were going to Bondou, -offered their services, as far as they intended respectively to proceed, -as did likewise a negro named Tami (also a Mohammedan), a native of -Kasson, who had been employed some years by Dr. Laidley as a blacksmith, -and was returning to his native country with the savings of his labours. -All these men travelled on foot, driving their asses before them.<br> -<br> -Thus I had no less than six attendants, all of whom had been taught -to regard me with great respect, and to consider that their safe return -hereafter to the countries on the Gambia would depend on my preservation.<br> -<br> -Dr. Laidley himself, and Messrs. Ainsley, with a number of their domestics, -kindly determined to accompany me the first two days; and I believe -they secretly thought they should never see me afterwards.<br> -<br> -We reached Jindey the same day, having crossed the Walli creek, a branch -of the Gambia, and rested at the house of a black woman, who had formerly -been the paramour of a white trader named Hewett, and who, in consequence -thereof, was called, by way of distinction, <i>seniora</i>. In -the evening we walked out to see an adjoining village, belonging to -a slatee named Jemaffoo Momadoo, the richest of all the Gambia traders. -We found him at home, and he thought so highly of the honour done him -by this visit, that he presented us with a fine bullock, which was immediately -killed, and part of it dressed for our evening’s repast.<br> -<br> -The negroes do not go to supper till late, and, in order to amuse ourselves -while our beef was preparing, a Mandingo was desired to relate some -diverting stories, in listening to which, and smoking tobacco, we spent -three hours. These stories bear some resemblance to those in the -Arabian Nights’ Entertainments, but, in general, are of a more -ludicrous cast.<br> -<br> -About one o’clock in the afternoon of the 3rd of December, I took -my leave of Dr. Laidley and Messrs. Ainsley, and rode slowly into the -woods. I had now before me a boundless forest, and a country, -the inhabitants of which were strangers to civilised life, and to most -of whom a white man was the object of curiosity or plunder. I -reflected that I had parted from the last European I might probably -behold, and perhaps quitted for ever the comforts of Christian society. -Thoughts like these would necessarily cast a gloom over my mind; and -I rode musing along for about three miles, when I was awakened from -my reverie by a body of people, who came running up, and stopped the -asses, giving me to understand that I must go with them to Peckaba, -to present myself to the king of Walli, or pay customs to them. -I endeavoured to make them comprehend that the object of my journey -not being traffic, I ought not to be subjected to a tax like the slatees, -and other merchants, who travel for gain; but I reasoned to no purpose. -They said it was usual for travellers of all descriptions to make a -present to the king of Walli, and without doing so I could not be permitted -to proceed. As they were more numerous than my attendants, and -withal very noisy, I thought it prudent to comply with their demand; -and having presented them with four bars of tobacco, for the king’s -use, I was permitted to continue my journey, and at sunset reached a -village near Kootacunda, where we rested for the night.<br> -<br> -In the morning of December 4th I passed Kootacunda, the last town of -Walli, and stopped about an hour at a small adjoining village to pay -customs to an officer of the king of Woolli; we rested the ensuing night -at a village called Tabajang; and at noon the next day (December 5th) -we reached Medina, the capital of the king of Woolli’s dominions.<br> -<br> -The kingdom of Woolli is bounded by Walli on the west, by the Gambia -on the south, by the small river Walli on the north-west, by Bondou -on the north-east, and on the east by the Simbani wilderness.<br> -<br> -The inhabitants are Mandingoes, and, like most of the Mandingo nations, -are divided into two great sects - the Mohammedans, who are called <i>bushreens</i>, -and the pagans, who are called indiscriminately <i>kafirs </i>(unbelievers) -and <i>sonakies </i>(<i>i.e.</i>, men who drink strong liquors). -The pagan natives are by far the most numerous, and the government of -the country is in their hands; for though the most respectable among -the bushreens are frequently consulted in affairs of importance, yet -they are never permitted to take any share in the executive government, -which rests solely in the hands of the <i>mansa</i>, or sovereign, and -great officers of the state. Of these, the first in point of rank -is the presumptive heir of the crown, who is called the <i>farbanna</i>. -Next to him are the <i>alkaids</i>, or provincial governors, who are -more frequently called <i>keamos</i>. Then follow the two grand -divisions of free-men and slaves; of the former, the slatees, so frequently -mentioned in the preceding pages, are considered as the principal; but, -in all classes, great respect is paid to the authority of aged men.<br> -<br> -On the death of the reigning monarch, his eldest son (if he has attained -the age of manhood) succeeds to the regal authority. If there -is no son, or if the son is under the age of discretion, a meeting of -the great men is held, and the late monarch’s nearest relation -(commonly his brother) is called to the government, not as regent, or -guardian to the infant son, but in full right, and to the exclusion -of the minor. The charges of the government are defrayed by occasional -tributes from the people, and by duties on goods transported across -the country. Travellers, on going from the Gambia towards the -interior, pay customs in European merchandise. On returning, they -pay in iron and <i>shea-toulou</i>. These taxes are paid at every -town.<br> -<br> -Medina, the capital of the kingdom, at which I was now arrived, is a -place of considerable extent, and may contain from eight hundred to -one thousand houses. It is fortified in the common African manner, -by a surrounding high wall built of clay, and an outward fence of pointed -stakes and prickly bushes; but the walls are neglected, and the outward -fence has suffered considerably from the active hands of busy housewives, -who pluck up the stakes for firewood. I obtained a lodging at -one of the king’s near relations, who apprised me that at my introduction -to the king I must not presume to <i>shake hands with him</i>. -“It was not usual,” he said, “to allow this liberty -to strangers.” Thus instructed, I went in the afternoon -to pay my respects to the sovereign, and ask permission to pass through -his territories to Bondou. The king’s name was Jatta. -He was the same venerable old man of whom so favourable an account was -transmitted by Major Houghton. I found him seated upon a mat before -the door of his hut; a number of men and women were arranged on each -side, who were singing and clapping their hands. I saluted him -respectfully, and informed him of the purport of my visit. The -king graciously replied, that he not only gave me leave to pass through -his country, but would offer up his prayers for my safety. On -this, one of my attendants, seemingly in return for the king’s -condescension, began to sing, or rather to roar an Arabic song, at every -pause of which the king himself, and all the people present, struck -their hands against their foreheads, and exclaimed, with devout and -affecting solemnity, “<i>Amen, amen</i>!” The king -told me, furthermore, that I should have a guide the day following, -who would conduct me safely to the frontier of his kingdom - I then -took my leave, and in the evening sent the king an order upon Dr. Laidley -for three gallons of rum, and received in return great store of provisions.<br> -<br> -<i>December </i>6. - Early in the morning I went to the king a second -time, to learn if the guide was ready. I found his Majesty seated -upon a bullock’s hide, warming himself before a large fire, for -the Africans are sensible of the smallest variation in the temperature -of the air, and frequently complain of cold when a European is oppressed -with heat. He received me with a benevolent countenance, and tenderly -entreated me to desist from my purpose of travelling into the interior, -telling me that Major Houghton had been killed in his route, and that -if I followed his footsteps I should probably meet with his fate. -He said that I must not judge of the people of the eastern country by -those of Woolli: that the latter were acquainted with white men, and -respected them, whereas the people of the east had never seen a white -man, and would certainly destroy me. I thanked the king for his -affectionate solicitude, but told him that I had considered the matter, -and was determined, notwithstanding all dangers, to proceed. The -king shook his head, but desisted from further persuasion, and told -me the guide should be ready in the afternoon.<br> -<br> -About two o’clock, the guide appearing, I went and took my last -farewell of the good old king, and in three hours reached Konjour, a -small village, where we determined to rest for the night. Here -I purchased a fine sheep for some beads, and my Serawoolli attendants -killed it with all the ceremonies prescribed by their religion. -Part of it was dressed for supper, after which a dispute arose between -one of the Serawoolli negroes, and Johnson, my interpreter, about the -sheep’s horns. The former claimed the horns as his perquisite, -for having acted the part of our butcher, and Johnson contested the -claim. I settled the matter by giving a horn to each of them. -This trifling incident is mentioned as introductory to what follows, -for it appeared on inquiry that these horns were highly valued, as being -easily convertible into portable sheaths, or cases, for containing and -keeping secure certain charms or amulets called <i>saphies</i>, which -the negroes constantly wear about them. These saphies are prayers, -or rather sentences, from the Koran, which the Mohammedan priests write -on scraps of paper, and sell to the simple natives, who consider them -to possess very extraordinary virtues. Some of the negroes wear -them to guard themselves against the bite of snakes or alligators; and -on this occasion the saphie is commonly enclosed in a snake’s -or alligator’s skin, and tied round the ankle. Others have -recourse to them in time of war, to protect their persons against hostile -weapons; but the common use to which these amulets are applied is to -prevent or cure bodily diseases - to preserve from hunger and thirst -- and generally to conciliate the favour of superior powers, under all -the circumstances and occurrences of life. <a name="citation1"></a><a href="#footnote1">{1}</a><br> -<br> -In this case it is impossible not to admire the wonderful contagion -of superstition, for, notwithstanding that the majority of the negroes -are pagans, and absolutely reject the doctrines of Mohammed, I did not -meet with a man, whether a bushreen or kafir, who was not fully persuaded -of the powerful efficacy of these amulets. The truth is, that -all the natives of this part of Africa consider the art of writing as -bordering on magic; and it is not in the doctrines of the prophet, but -in the arts of the magician, that their confidence is placed. -It will hereafter be seen that I was myself lucky enough, in circumstances -of distress, to turn the popular credulity in this respect to good account.<br> -<br> -On the 7th I departed from Konjour, and slept at a village called Malla -(or Mallaing), and on the 8th about noon I arrived at Kolor, a considerable -town, near the entrance into which I observed, hanging upon a tree, -a sort of masquerade habit, made of the bark of trees, which I was told, -on inquiry, belonged to <i>Mumbo Jumbo</i>. This is a strange -bugbear, common to all the Mandingo towns, and much employed by the -pagan natives in keeping their women in subjection; for as the kafirs -are not restricted in the number of their wives, every one marries as -many as he can conveniently maintain - and as it frequently happens -that the ladies disagree among themselves, family quarrels sometimes -rise to such a height, that the authority of the husband can no longer -preserve peace in his household. In such cases, the interposition -of Mumbo Jumbo is called in, and is always decisive.<br> -<br> -This strange minister of justice (who is supposed to be either the husband -himself, or some person instructed by him), disguised in the dress that -has been mentioned, and armed with the rod of public authority, announces -his coming (whenever his services are required) by loud and dismal screams -in the woods near the town. He begins the pantomime at the approach -of night; and as soon as it is dark he enters the town, and proceeds -to the bentang, at which all the inhabitants immediately assemble.<br> -<br> -<i>December </i>9. - As there was no water to be procured on the road, -we travelled with great expedition until we reached Tambacunda; and -departing from thence early the next morning, the 10th, we reached in -the evening Kooniakary, a town of nearly the same magnitude as Kolor. -About noon on the 11th we arrived at Koojar, the frontier town of Woolli, -towards Bondou, from which it is separated by an intervening wilderness -of two days’ journey.<br> -<br> -The guide appointed by the king of Woolli being now to return, I presented -him with some amber for his trouble; and having been informed that it -was not possible at all times to procure water in the wilderness, I -made inquiry for men who would serve both as guides and water-bearers -during my journey across it. Three negroes, elephant-hunters, -offered their services for these purposes, which I accepted, and paid -them three bars each in advance; and the day being far spent, I determined -to pass the night in my present quarters.<br> -<br> -The inhabitants of Koojar, though not wholly unaccustomed to the sight -of Europeans (most of them having occasionally visited the countries -on the Gambia), beheld me with a mixture of curiosity and reverence, -and in the evening invited me to see a <i>neobering</i>, or wrestling-match, -at the bentang. This is an exhibition very common in all the Mandingo -countries. The spectators arranged themselves in a circle, leaving -the intermediate space for the wrestlers, who were strong active young -men, full of emulation, and accustomed, I suppose, from their infancy -to this sort of exertion. Being stripped of their clothing, except -a short pair of drawers, and having their skin anointed with oil, or -<i>shea </i>butter, the combatants approached each other on all-fours, -parrying with, and occasionally extending a hand for some time, till -at length one of them sprang forward, and caught his rival by the knee. -Great dexterity and judgment were now displayed, but the contest was -decided by superior strength; and I think that few Europeans would have -been able to cope with the conqueror. It must not be unobserved, -that the combatants were animated by the music of a drum, by which their -actions were in some measure regulated.<br> -<br> -The wrestling was succeeded by a dance, in which many performers assisted, -all of whom were provided with little bells, which were fastened to -their legs and arms; and here, too, the drum regulated their motions. -It was beaten with a crooked stick, which the drummer held in his right -hand, occasionally using his left to deaden the sound, and thus vary -the music. The drama is likewise applied on these occasions to -keep order among the spectators, by imitating the sound of certain Mandingo -sentences. For example, when the wrestling-match is about to begin, -the drummer strikes what is understood to signify <i>ali bæ see -</i>(sit all down), upon which the spectators immediately seat themselves; -and when the combatants are to begin, he strikes <i>amuta</i>! <i>amuta</i>! -(take hold! take hold!)<br> -<br> -In the course of the evening I was presented, by way of refreshment, -with a liquor, which tasted so much like the strong beer of my native -country (and very good beer too), as to induce me to inquire into its -composition; and I learnt, with some degree of surprise, that it was -actually made from corn which had been previously malted, much in the -same manner as barley is malted in Great Britain. A root yielding -a grateful bitter was used in lieu of hops, the name of which I have -forgotten; but the corn which yields the wort is the <i>holcus spicatus -</i>of botanists.<br> -<br> -Early in the morning (the 12th) I found that one of the elephant-hunters -had absconded with the money he had received from me in part of wages; -and in order to prevent the other two from following his example, I -made them instantly fill their calabashes (or gourds) with water; and -as the sun rose, I entered the wilderness that separates the kingdoms -of Woolli and Bondou.<br> -<br> -We continued our journey without stopping any more until noon, when -we came to a large tree, called by the natives <i>neema taba</i>. -It had a very singular appearance, being decorated with innumerable -rags or scraps of cloth, which persons travelling across the wilderness -had at different times tied to the branches, probably at first to inform -the traveller that water was to be found near it; but the custom has -been so greatly sanctioned by time, that nobody now presumes to pass -without hanging up something. I followed the example, and suspended -a handsome piece of cloth on one of the boughs; and being told that -either a well, or pool of water, was at no great distance, I ordered -the negroes to unload the asses, that we might give them corn, and regale -ourselves with the provisions we had brought. In the meantime, -I sent one of the elephant-hunters to look for the well, intending, -if water was to be obtained, to rest here for the night. A pool -was found, but the water was thick and muddy, and the negro discovered -near it the remains of a fire recently extinguished, and the fragments -of provisions, which afforded a proof that it had been lately visited, -either by travellers or banditti. The fears of my attendants supposed -the latter; and believing that robbers lurked near as, I was persuaded -to change my resolution of resting here all night, and proceed to another -watering-place, which I was assured we might reach early in the evening.<br> -<br> -We departed accordingly, but it was eight o’clock at night before -we came to the watering-place; and being now sufficiently fatigued with -so long a day’s journey, we kindled a large fire and lay down, -surrounded by our cattle, on the bare ground, more than a gunshot from -any bush, the negroes agreeing to keep watch by turns to prevent surprise.<br> -<br> -I know not, indeed, that any danger was justly to be dreaded, but the -negroes were unaccountably apprehensive of banditti during the whole -of the journey. As soon, therefore, as daylight appeared, we filled -our <i>soofroos </i>(skins) and calabashes at the pool, and set out -for Tallika, the first town in Bondou, which we reached about eleven -o’clock in the forenoon (the 13th of December).<br> -<br> -<br> -<br> -CHAPTER IV - FROM TALLIKA TO KAJAAGA<br> -<br> -<br> -<br> -Tallika, the frontier town of Bondou towards Woolli, is inhabited chiefly -by Foulahs of the Mohammedan religion, who live in considerable affluence, -partly by furnishing provisions to the coffles, or caravans, that pass -through the town, and partly by the sale of ivory, obtained by hunting -elephants, in which employment the young men are generally very successful. -Here an officer belonging to the king of Bondou constantly resides, -whose business it is to give timely information of the arrival of the -caravans, which are taxed according to the number of loaded asses that -arrive at Tallika.<br> -<br> -I took up my residence at this officer’s house, and agreed with -him to accompany me to Fatteconda, the residence of the king, for which -he was to receive five bars; and before my departure I wrote a few lines -to Dr. Laidley, and gave my letter to the master of a caravan bound -for the Gambia. This caravan consisted of nine or ten people, -with five asses loaded with ivory. The large teeth are conveyed -in nets, two on each side of the ass; the small ones are wrapped up -in skins, and secured with ropes.<br> -<br> -<i>December </i>14. - We left Tallika, and rode on very peaceably for -about two miles, when a violent quarrel arose between two of my fellow-travellers, -one of whom was the blacksmith, in the course of which they bestowed -some opprobrious terms upon each other; and it is worthy of remark, -that an African will sooner forgive a blow than a term of reproach applied -to his ancestors. “Strike me, but do not curse my mother,” -is a common expression even among the slaves. This sort of abuse, -therefore, so enraged one of the disputants, that he drew his cutlass -upon the blacksmith, and would certainly have ended the dispute in a -very serious manner, if the others had not laid hold of him and wrested -the cutlass from him. I was obliged to interfere, and put an end -to this disagreeable business by desiring the blacksmith to be silent, -and telling the other, who I thought was in the wrong, that if he attempted -in future to draw his cutlass, or molest any of my attendants, I should -look upon him as a robber, and shoot him without further ceremony. -This threat had the desired effect, and we marched sullenly along till -the afternoon, when we arrived at a number of small villages scattered -over an open and fertile plain. At one of these, called Ganado, -we took up our residence for the night; here an exchange of presents -and a good supper terminated all animosities among my attendants, and -the night was far advanced before any of us thought of going to sleep. -We were amused by an itinerant <i>singing man</i>, who told a number -of diverting stories, and played some sweet airs by blowing his breath -upon a bow-string, and striking it at the same time with a stick.<br> -<br> -<i>December </i>15. - At daybreak my fellow-travellers, the Serawoollies, -took leave of me, with many prayers for my safety. About a mile -from Ganado we crossed a considerable branch of the Gambia, called Neriko. -The banks were steep and covered with mimosas; and I observed in the -mud a number of large mussels, but the natives do not eat them. -About noon, the sun being exceedingly hot, we rested two hours in the -shade of a tree, and purchased some milk and pounded corn from some -Foulah herdsmen, and at sunset reached a town called Koorkarany, where -the blacksmith had some relations; and here we rested two days.<br> -<br> -Koorkarany is a Mohammedan town surrounded by a high wall, and is provided -with a mosque. Here I was shown a number of Arabic manuscripts, -particularly a copy of the book before mentioned, called <i>Al Sharra</i>. -The <i>maraboo</i>, or priest, in whose possession it was, read and -explained to me in Mandingo many of the most remarkable passages, and, -in return, I showed him Richardson’s Arabic Grammar, which he -very much admired.<br> -<br> -On the evening of the second day (December 17) we departed from Koorkarany. -We were joined by a young man who was travelling to Fatteconda for salt; -and as night set in we reached Dooggi, a small village about three miles -from Koorkarany.<br> -<br> -Provisions were here so cheap that I purchased a bullock for six small -stones of amber; for I found my company increase or diminish according -to the good fare they met with.<br> -<br> -<i>December </i>18. - Early in the morning we departed from Dooggi, -and, being joined by a number of Foulahs and other people, made a formidable -appearance, and were under no apprehension of being plundered in the -woods. About eleven o’clock, one of the asses proving very -refractory, the negroes took a curious method to make him tractable. -They cut a forked stick, and putting the forked part into the ass’s -mouth, like the bit of a bridle, tied the two smaller parts together -above his head, leaving the lower part of the stick of sufficient length -to strike against the ground, if the ass should attempt to put his head -down. After this the ass walked along quietly and gravely enough, -taking care, after some practice, to hold his head sufficiently high -to prevent stones or roots of trees from striking against the end of -the stick, which experience had taught him would give a severe shock -to his teeth. This contrivance produced a ludicrous appearance, -but my fellow-travellers told me it was constantly adopted by the slatees, -and always proved effectual.<br> -<br> -In the evening we arrived at a few scattered villages, surrounded with -extensive cultivation, at one of which, called Buggil, we passed the -night in a miserable hut, having no other bed than a bundle of corn-stalks, -and no provisions but what we brought with us. The wells here -are dug with great ingenuity, and are very deep. I measured one -of the bucket-ropes, and found the depth of the well to be twenty-eight -fathoms.<br> -<br> -<i>December </i>19. - We departed from Buggil, and travelled along a -dry, stony height, covered with mimosas, till mid-day, when the land -sloped towards the east, and we descended into a deep valley, in which -I observed abundance of whinstone and white quartz. Pursuing our -course to the eastward, along this valley in the bed of an exhausted -river-course, we came to a large village, where we intended to lodge. -We found many of the natives dressed in a thin French gauze, which they -called <i>byqui; </i>this being a light airy dress, and well calculated -to display the shape of their persons, is much esteemed by the ladies. -The manners of these females, however, did not correspond with their -dress, for they were rude and troublesome in the highest degree; they -surrounded me in numbers, begging for amber, beads, &c., and were -so vehement in their solicitations, that I found it impossible to resist -them. They tore my cloak, cut the buttons from my boy’s -clothes, and were proceeding to other outrages, when I mounted my horse -and rode off, followed for half-a-mile by a body of these harpies.<br> -<br> -In the evening we reached Soobrudooka, and as my company was numerous -(being fourteen), I purchased a sheep and abundance of corn for supper; -after which we lay down by the bundles, and passed an uncomfortable -night in a heavy dew.<br> -<br> -<i>December </i>20. - We departed from Soobrudooka, and at two o’clock -reached a large village situated on the banks of the Falemé river, -which is here rapid and rocky. The natives were employed in fishing -in various ways. The large fish were taken in long baskets made -of split cane, and placed in a strong current, which was created by -walls of stone built across the stream, certain open places being left, -through which the water rushed with great force. Some of these -baskets were more than twenty feet long, and when once the fish had -entered one of them, the force of the stream prevented it from returning. -The small fish were taken in great numbers in hand-nets, which the natives -weave of cotton, and use with great dexterity. The fish last mentioned -are about the size of sprats, and are prepared for sale in different -ways; the most common is by pounding them entire as they come from the -stream, in a wooden mortar, and exposing them to dry in the sun, in -large lumps like sugar loaves. It may be supposed that the smell -is not very agreeable; but in the Moorish countries to the north of -the Senegal, where fish is scarcely known, this preparation is esteemed -as<i> </i>a luxury, and sold to considerable advantage. The manner -of using it by the natives is by dissolving a piece of this black loaf -in boiling water, and mixing it with their kouskous.<br> -<br> -On returning to the village, after an excursion to the river-side to -inspect the fishery, an old Moorish shereef came to bestow his blessing -upon me, and beg some paper to write saphies upon. This man had -seen Major Houghton in the kingdom of Kaarta, and told me that he died -in the country of the Moors.<br> -<br> -About three in the afternoon we continued our course along the bank -of the river to the northward, till eight o’clock, when we reached -Nayemow. Here the hospitable master of the town received us kindly, -and presented us with a bullock. In return I gave him some amber -and beads.<br> -<br> -<i>December </i>21. - In the morning, having agreed for a canoe to carry -over my bundles, I crossed the river, which came up to my knees as I -sat on my horse; but the water is so clear, that from the high bank -the bottom is visible all the way over.<br> -<br> -About noon we entered Fatteconda, the capital of Bondou, and in a little -time received an invitation to the house of a respectable slatee: for -as there are no public-houses in Africa, it is customary for strangers -to stand at the bentang, or some other place of public resort, till -they are invited to a lodging by some of the inhabitants. We accepted -the offer; and in an hour afterwards a person came and told me that -he was sent on purpose to conduct me to the king, who was very desirous -of seeing me immediately, if I was not too much fatigued.<br> -<br> -I took my interpreter with me, and followed the messenger till we got -quite out of the town, and crossed some corn-fields; when, suspecting -some trick, I stopped, and asked the guide whither he was going. -Upon which, he pointed to a man sitting under a tree at some little -distance, and told me that the king frequently gave audience in that -retired manner, in order to avoid a crowd of people, and that nobody -but myself and my interpreter must approach him. When I advanced -the king desired me to come and sit by him upon the mat; and, after -hearing my story, on which be made no observation, he asked if I wished -to purchase any slaves or gold. Being answered in the negative, -he seemed rather surprised, but desired me to come to him in the evening, -and he would give me some provisions.<br> -<br> -This monarch was called Almami, a Moorish name, though I was told that -he was not a Mohammedan, but a kafir or pagan. I had heard that -he had acted towards Major Houghton with great unkindness, and caused -him to be plundered. His behaviour, therefore, towards myself -at this interview, though much more civil than I expected, was far from -freeing me from uneasiness. I still apprehended some double-dealing; -and as I was now entirely in his power, I thought it best to smooth -the way by a present. Accordingly, I took with me in the evening -one canister of gunpowder, some amber, tobacco, and my umbrella; and -as I considered that my bundles would inevitably be searched, I concealed -some few articles in the roof of the hut where I lodged, and I put on -my new blue coat in order to preserve it.<br> -<br> -All the houses belonging to the king and his family are surrounded by -a lofty mud wall, which converts the whole into a kind of citadel. -The interior is subdivided into different courts. At the first -place of entrance I observed a man standing with a musket on his shoulder; -and I found the way to the presence very intricate, leading through -many passages, with sentinels placed at the different doors. When -we came to the entrance of the court in which the king resides, both -my guide and interpreter, according to custom, took off their sandals; -and the former pronounced the king’s name aloud, repeating it -till he was answered from within. We found the monarch sitting -upon a mat, and two attendants with him. I repeated what I had -before told him concerning the object of my journey, and my reasons -for passing through his country. He seemed, however, but half -satisfied. When I offered to show him the contents of my portmanteau, -and everything belonging to me, he was convinced; and it was evident -that his suspicion had arisen from a belief that every white man must -of necessity be a trader. When I had delivered my presents, he -seemed well pleased, and was particularly delighted with the umbrella, -which he repeatedly furled and unfurled, to the great admiration of -himself and his two attendants, who could not for some time comprehend -the use of this wonderful machine. After this I was about to take -my leave, when the king, desiring me to stop a while, began a long preamble -in favour of the whites, extolling their immense wealth and good dispositions. -He next proceeded to an eulogium on my blue coat, of which the yellow -buttons seemed particularly to catch his fancy; and he concluded by -entreating me to present him with it, assuring me, for my consolation -under the loss of it, that he would wear it on all public occasions, -and inform every one who saw it of my great liberality towards him. -The request of an African prince, in his own dominions, particularly -when made to a stranger, comes little short of a command. It is -only a way of obtaining by gentle means what he can, if he pleases, -take by force; and as it was against my interest to offend him by a -refusal, I very quietly took off my coat, the only good one in my possession, -and laid it at his feet.<br> -<br> -In return for my compliance, he presented me with great plenty of provisions, -and desired to see me again in the morning. I accordingly attended, -and found in sitting upon his bed. He told me he was sick, and -wished to have a little blood taken from him; but I had no sooner, tied -up his arm and displayed the lancet, than his courage failed, and he -begged me to postpone the operation till the afternoon, as he felt himself, -he said, much better than he had been, and thanked me kindly for my -readiness to serve him. He then observed that his women were very -desirous to see me, and requested that I would favour them with a visit. -An attendant was ordered to conduct me; and I had no sooner entered -the court appropriated to the ladies, than the whole seraglio surrounded -me - some begging for physic, some for amber, and all of them desirous -of trying that great African specific, <i>blood-letting</i>. They -were ten or twelve in number, most of them young and handsome, and wearing -on their heads ornaments of gold, and beads of amber.<br> -<br> -They rallied me with a good deal of gaiety on different subjects, particularly -upon the whiteness of my skin and the prominency of my nose. They -insisted that both were artificial. The first, they said, was -produced when I was an infant, by dipping me in milk; and they insisted -that my nose had been pinched every day, till it had acquired its present -unsightly and unnatural conformation. On my part, without disputing -my own deformity, I paid them many compliments on African beauty. -I praised the glossy jet of their skins, and the lovely depression of -their noses; but they said that flattery, or, as they emphatically termed -it, <i>honey-mouth</i>, was not esteemed in Bondou. In return, -however, for my company or my compliments (to which, by the way, they -seemed not so insensible as they affected to be) they presented me with -a jar of honey and some fish, which were sent to my lodging; and I was -desired to come again to the king a little before sunset.<br> -<br> -I carried with me some beads and writing-paper, it being usual to present -some small offering on taking leave, in return for which the king gave -me five drachms of gold, observing that it was but a trifle, and given -out of pure friendship, but would be of use to me in travelling, for -the purchase of provisions. He seconded this act of kindness by -one still greater, politely telling me that, though it was customary -to examine the baggage of every traveller passing through his country, -yet, in the present instance, he would dispense without ceremony, adding, -I was at liberty to depart when I pleased.<br> -<br> -Accordingly, on the morning of the 23rd, we left Fatteconda, and about -eleven o’clock came to a small village, where we determined to -stop for the rest of the day.<br> -<br> -In the afternoon my fellow-travellers informed me that, as this was -the boundary between Bondou and Kajaaga, and dangerous for travellers, -it would be necessary to continue our journey by night, until we should -reach a more hospitable part of the country. I agreed to the proposal, -and hired two people for guides through the woods; and as soon as the -people of the village were gone to sleep (the moon shining bright) we -set out. The stillness of the air, the howling of the wild beasts, -and the deep solitude of the forest, made the scene solemn and oppressive. -Not a word was uttered by any of us but in a whisper; all were attentive, -and every one anxious to show his sagacity by pointing out to me the -wolves and hyænas, as they glided like shadows from one thicket -to another. Towards morning we arrived at a village called Kimmoo, -where our guides awakened one of their acquaintances, and we stopped -to give the asses some corn, and roast a few ground-nuts for ourselves. -At daylight we resumed our journey, and in the afternoon arrived at -Joag, in the kingdom of Kajaaga.<br> -<br> -Being now in a country and among a people differing in many respects -from those that have as yet fallen under our observation, I shall, before -I proceed further, give some account of Bondou (the territory we have -left) and its inhabitants, the Foulahs, the description of whom I purposely -reserved for this part of my work.<br> -<br> -Bondou is bounded on the east by Bambouk, on the south-east and south -by Tenda and the Simbani wilderness, on the south-west by Woolli, on -the west by Foota Torra, and on the north by Kajaaga.<br> -<br> -The country, like that of Woolli, is very generally covered with woods, -but the land is more elevated, and, towards the Falemé river, -rises into considerable hills. In native fertility the soil is -not surpassed, I believe, by any part of Africa.<br> -<br> -From the central situation of Bondou, between the Gambia and Senegal -rivers, it is become a place of great resort, both for the slatees, -who generally pass through it on going from the coast to the interior -countries, and for occasional traders, who frequently come hither from -the inland countries to purchase salt.<br> -<br> -These different branches of commerce are conducted principally by Mandingoes -and Serawoollies, who have settled in the country. These merchants -likewise carry on a considerable trade with Gedumah and other Moorish -countries, bartering corn and blue cotton cloths for salt, which they -again barter in Dentila and other districts for iron, shea-butter, and -small quantities of gold-dust. They likewise sell a variety of -sweet-smelling gums, packed up in small bags, containing each about -a pound. These gums, being thrown on hot embers, produce a very -pleasant odour, and are used by the Mandingoes for perfuming their huts -and clothes.<br> -<br> -The customs, or duties on travellers, are very heavy; in almost every -town an ass-load pays a bar of European merchandise, and at Fatteconda, -the residence of the king, one Indian baft, or a musket, and six bottles -of gunpowder, are exacted as the common tribute. By means of these -duties, the king of Bondou is well supplied with arms and ammunition -- a circumstance which makes him formidable to the neighbouring states.<br> -<br> -The inhabitants differ in their complexions and national manners from -the Mandingoes and Serawoollies, with whom they are frequently at war. -Some years ago the king of Bondou crossed the Falemé river with -a numerous army; and, after a short and bloody campaign, totally defeated -the forces of Samboo, king of Bambouk, who was obliged to sue for peace, -and surrender to him all the towns along the eastern bank of the Falemé.<br> -<br> -The Foulahs in general (as has been observed in a former chapter) are -of a tawny complexion, with small features and soft silky hair; next -to the Mandingoes, they are undoubtedly the most considerable of all -the nations in this part of Africa. Their original country is -said to be Fooladoo (which signifies the country of the Foulahs); but -they possess at present many other kingdoms at a great distance from -each other; their complexion, however, is not exactly the same in the -different districts; in Bondou, and the other kingdoms which are situated -in the vicinity of the Moorish territories, they are of a more yellow -complexion than in the southern states.<br> -<br> -The Foulahs of Bondou are naturally of a mild and gentle disposition, -but the uncharitable maxims of the Koran have made them less hospitable -to strangers, and more reserved in their behaviour, than the Mandingoes. -They evidently consider all the negro natives as their inferiors; and, -when talking of different nations, always rank themselves among the -white people.<br> -<br> -Their government differs from that of the Mandingoes chiefly in this, -that they are more immediately under the influence of Mohammedan laws; -for all the chief men, the king excepted, and a large majority of the -inhabitants of Bondou, are Mussulmans, and the authority and laws of -the Prophet are everywhere looked upon as sacred and decisive. -In the exercise of their faith, however, they are not very intolerant -towards such of their countrymen as still retain their ancient superstitions. -Religious persecution is not known among them, nor is it necessary; -for the system of Mohammed is made to extend itself by means abundantly -more efficacious. By establishing small schools in the different -towns, where many of the pagan as well as Mohammedan children are taught -to read the Koran, and instructed in the tenets of the Prophet, the -Mohammedan priests fix a bias on the minds, and form the character, -of their young disciples, which no accidents of life can ever afterwards -remove or alter. Many of these little schools I visited in my -progress through the country, and I observed with pleasure the great -docility and submissive deportment of the children, and heartily wished -they had had better instructors and a purer religion.<br> -<br> -With the Mohammedan faith is also introduced the Arabic language, with -which most of the Foulahs have a slight acquaintance. Their native -tongue abounds very much in liquids, but there is something unpleasant -in the manner of pronouncing it. A stranger, on hearing the common -conversation of two Foulahs, would imagine that they were scolding each -other. Their numerals are these:-<br> -<br> -<br> -One, Go.<br> -Two, Deeddee.<br> -Three, Tettee.<br> -Four, Nee.<br> -Five, Jouee.<br> -Six, Jego.<br> -Seven, Jedeeddee.<br> -Eight, Je Tettee.<br> -Nine, Je Nee.<br> -Ten, Sappo.<br> -<br> -<br> -The industry of the Foulahs, in the occupations of pasturage and agriculture, -is everywhere remarkable. Even on the banks of the Gambia, the -greater part of the corn is raised by them, and their herds and flocks -are more numerous and in better condition than those of the Mandingoes; -but in Bondou they are opulent in a high degree, and enjoy all the necessaries -of life in the greatest profusion. They display great skill in -the management of their cattle, making them extremely gentle by kindness -and familiarity. On the approach of the night, they are collected -from the woods and secured in folds called <i>korrees</i>, which are -constructed in the neighbourhood of the different villages. In -the middle of each korree is erected a small hut, wherein one or two -of the herdsmen keep watch during the night, to prevent the cattle from -being stolen, and to keep up the fires which are kindled round the korree -to frighten away the wild beasts.<br> -<br> -The cattle are milked in the mornings and evenings: the milk is excellent; -but the quantity obtained from any one cow is by no means so great as -in Europe. The Foulahs use the milk chiefly as an article of diet, -and that not until it is quite sour. The cream which it affords -is very thick, and is converted into butter by stirring it violently -in a large calabash. This butter, when melted over a gentle fire, -and freed from impurities, is preserved in small earthen pots, and forms -a part in most of their dishes; it serves likewise to anoint their heads, -and is bestowed very liberally on their faces and arms.<br> -<br> -But although milk is plentiful, it is somewhat remarkable that the Foulahs, -and indeed all the inhabitants of this part of Africa, are totally unacquainted -with the art of making cheese. A firm attachment to the customs -of their ancestors makes them view with an eye of prejudice everything -that looks like innovation. The heat of the climate and the great -scarcity of salt are held forth as unanswerable objections; and the -whole process appears to them too long and troublesome to be attended -with any solid advantage.<br> -<br> -Besides the cattle, which constitute the chief wealth of the Foulahs, -they possess some excellent horses, the breed of which seems to be a -mixture of the Arabian with the original African.<br> -<br> -<br> -<br> -CHAPTER V - FROM KAJAAGA TO KASSON<br> -<br> -<br> -<br> -The kingdom of Kajaaga, in which I was now arrived, is called by the -French Gallam, but the name that I have adopted is universally used -by the natives. This country is bounded on the south-east and -south by Bambouk, on the west by Bondou and Foota-Torra, and on the -north by the river Senegal.<br> -<br> -The air and climate are, I believe, more pure and salubrious than at -any of the settlements towards the coast; the face of the country is -everywhere interspersed with a pleasing variety of hills and valleys; -and the windings of the Senegal river, which descends from the rocky -hills of the interior, make the scenery on its banks very picturesque -and beautiful.<br> -<br> -The inhabitants are called Serawoollies, or (as the French write it) -<i>Seracolets</i>. Their complexion is a jet black: they are not -to be distinguished in this respect from the Jaloffs.<br> -<br> -The government is monarchical, and the regal authority, from what I -experienced of it, seems to be sufficiently formidable. The people -themselves, however, complain of no oppression, and seemed all very -anxious to support the king in a contest he was going to enter into -with the sovereign of Kasson. The Serawoollies are habitually -a trading people; they formerly carried on a great commerce with the -French in gold and slaves, and still maintain some traffic in slaves -with the British factories on the Gambia. They are reckoned tolerably -fair and just in their dealings, but are indefatigable in their exertions -to acquire wealth, and they derive considerable profits by the sale -of salt and cotton cloth in distant countries. When a Serawoolli -merchant returns home from a trading expedition the neighbours immediately -assemble to congratulate him upon his arrival. On these occasions -the traveller displays his wealth and liberality by making a few presents -to his friends; but if he has been unsuccessful his levee is soon over, -and every one looks upon him as a man of no understanding, who could -perform a long journey, and (at they express it) “bring back nothing -but the hair upon his head.”<br> -<br> -Their language abounds much in gutturals, and is not so harmonious as -that spoken by the Foulahs. It is, however, well worth acquiring -by those who travel through this part of the African continent, it being -very generally understood in the kingdoms of Kasson, Kaarta, Ludamar, -and the northern parts of Bambarra. In all these countries the -Serawoollies are the chief traders. Their numerals are:-<br> -<br> -<br> -One, Bani.<br> -Two, Fillo.<br> -Three, Sicco.<br> -Four, Narrato.<br> -Five, Karrago.<br> -Six, Toomo.<br> -Seven, Nero.<br> -Eight, Sego.<br> -Nine, Kabbo.<br> -Ten, Tamo.<br> -Twenty, Tamo di Fillo.<br> -<br> -<br> -We arrived at Joag, the frontier town of this kingdom, on the 24th of -December, and took up our residence at the house of the chief man, who -is here no longer known by the title of alkaid, but is called the <i>dooty</i>. -He was a rigid Mohammedan, but distinguished for his hospitality. -This town may be supposed, on a gross computation, to contain two thousand -inhabitants. It is surrounded by a high wall, in which are a number -of port-holes, for musketry to fire through, in case of an attack. -Every man’s possession is likewise surrounded by a wall, the whole -forming so many distinct citadels; and amongst a people unacquainted -with the use of artillery these walls answer all the purposes of stronger -fortifications. To the westward of the town is a small river, -on the banks of which the natives raise great plenty of tobacco and -onions.<br> -<br> -The same evening Madiboo, the bushreen, who had accompanied me from -Pisania, went to pay a visit to his father and mother, who dwelt at -a neighbouring town called Dramanet. He was joined by my other -attendant, the blacksmith. As soon as it was dark I was invited -to see the sports of the inhabitants, it being their custom, on the -arrival of strangers, to welcome them by diversions of different kinds. -I found a great crowd surrounding a party who were dancing, by the light -of some large fires, to the music of four drums, which were beat with -great exactness and uniformity. The dances, however, consisted -more in wanton gestures than in muscular exertion or graceful attitudes. -The ladies vied with each other in displaying the most voluptuous movements -imaginable.<br> -<br> -<i>December </i>25. - About two o’clock in the morning a number -of horsemen came into the town, and, having awakened my landlord, talked -to him for some time in the Serawoolli tongue; after which they dismounted -and came to the bentang, on which I had made my bed. One of them, -thinking that I was asleep, attempted to steal the musket that lay by -me on the mat, but finding that he could not effect his purpose undiscovered, -he desisted, and the strangers sat down by me till daylight.<br> -<br> -I could now easily perceive, by the countenance of my interpreter, Johnson, -that something very unpleasant was in agitation. I was likewise -surprised to see Madiboo and the blacksmith so soon returned. -On inquiring the reason, Madiboo informed me that, as they were dancing -at Dramanet, ten horsemen belonging to Batcheri, king of the country, -with his second son at their head, had arrived there, inquiring if the -white man had passed, and, on being told that I was at Joag, they rode -off without stopping. Madiboo added that on hearing this he and -the blacksmith hastened back to give me notice of their coming. -Whilst I was listening to this narrative the ten horsemen mentioned -by Madiboo arrived, and coming to the bentang, dismounted and seated -themselves with those who had come before - the whole being about twenty -in number - forming a circle round me, and each man holding his musket -in his hand. I took this opportunity to observe to my landlord -that, as I did not understand the Serawoolli tongue, I hoped whatever -the men had to say they would speak in Mandingo. To this they -agreed; and a short man, loaded with a remarkable number of saphies, -opened the business in a very long harangue, informing me that I had -entered the king’s town without having first paid the duties, -or giving any present to the king; and that, according to the laws of -the country, my people, cattle, and baggage were forfeited. He -added that they had received orders from the king to conduct me to Maana, -<a name="citation2"></a><a href="#footnote2">{2}</a> the place of his -residence, and if I refused to come with them their orders were to bring -me by force; upon his saying which all of them rose up and asked me -if I was ready. It would have been equally vain and imprudent -in me to have resisted or irritated such a body of men; I therefore -affected to comply with their commands, and begged them only to stop -a little until I had given my horse a feed of corn, and settled matters -with my landlord. The poor blacksmith, who was a native of Kasson, -mistook this feigned compliance for a real intention, and taking me -away from the company, told me that he had always behaved towards me -as if I had been his father and master, and he hoped I would not entirely -ruin him by going to Maana, adding that as there was every reason to -believe a war would soon take place between Kasson and Kajaaga, he should -not only lose his little property, the savings of four years’ -industry, but should certainly be detained and sold as a slave, unless -his friends had an opportunity of paying two slaves for his redemption. -I saw this reasoning in its full force, and determined to do my utmost -to preserve the blacksmith from so dreadful a fate. I therefore -told the king’s son that I was ready to go with him, upon condition -that, the blacksmith, who was an inhabitant of a distant kingdom, and -entirely unconnected with me, should be allowed to stay at Joag till -my return. To this they all objected, and insisted that, as we -had all acted contrary to the laws, we were all equally answerable for -our conduct.<br> -<br> -I now took my landlord aside, and giving him a small present of gunpowder, -asked his advice in such critical a situation. He was decidedly -of opinion that I ought not to go to the king: he was fully convinced, -he said, that if the king should discover anything valuable in my possession, -he would not be over scrupulous about the means of obtaining it.<br> -<br> -Towards the evening, as I was sitting upon the bentang chewing straws, -an old female slave, passing by with a basket upon her head, asked me -<i>if had got my dinner</i>. As I thought she only laughed at -me, I gave her no answer; but my boy, who was sitting close by, answered -for me, and told her that the king’s people had robbed me of all -my money. On hearing this, the good old woman, with a look of -unaffected benevolence, immediately took the basket from her head, and -showing me that it contained ground nuts, asked me if I could eat them. -Being answered in the affirmative, she presented me with a few handfuls, -and walked away before I had time to thank her for this seasonable supply.<br> -<br> -The old woman had scarcely left me when I received information that -a nephew of Demba Sego Jalla, the Mandingo king of Kasson, was coming -to pay me a visit. He had been sent on an embassy to Batcheri, -King of Kajaaga, to endeavour to settle the disputes which had arisen -between his uncle and the latter; but after debating the matter four -days without success, he was now on his return, and hearing that a white -man was at Joag, on his way to Kasson, curiosity brought in to see me. -I represented to him my situation and distresses, when he frankly offered -me his protection, and said he would be my guide to Kasson (provided -I would set out the next morning), and be answerable for my safety. -I readily and gratefully accepted his offer, and was ready with my attendants -by daylight on the morning of the 27th of December.<br> -<br> -My protector, whose name was Demba Sego, probably after his uncle, had -a numerous retinue. Our company, at leaving Joag, consisted of -thirty persons and six loaded asses; and we rode on cheerfully enough -for some hours, without any remarkable occurrence until we came to a -species of tree for which my interpreter Johnson had made frequent inquiry. -On finding it, he desired us to stop, and producing a white chicken, -which he had purchased at Joag for the purpose, he tied it by the leg -to one of the branches, and then told us we might now safely proceed, -for that our journey would be prosperous.<br> -<br> -At noon we had reached Gungadi, a large town where we stopped about -an hour, until some of the asses that had fallen behind came up. -Here I observed a number of date-trees, and a mosque built of clay, -with six turrets, on the pinnacles of which were placed six ostrich -eggs. A little before sunset we arrived at the town of Samee, -on the banks of the Senegal, which is here a beautiful but shallow river, -moving slowly over a bed of sand and gravel. The banks are high, -and covered with verdure - the country is open and cultivated - and -the rocky hills of Fellow and Bambouk add much to the beauty of the -landscape.<br> -<br> -<i>December </i>28. - We departed from Samee, and arrived in the afternoon -at Kayee, a large village, part of which is situated on the north and -part on the south side of the river.<br> -<br> -The ferryman then taking hold of the most steady of the horses by a -rope, led him into the water, and paddled the canoe a little from the -brink; upon which a general attack commenced upon the other horses, -who, finding themselves pelted and kicked on all sides, unanimously -plunged into the river, and followed their companion. A few boys -swam in after them; and, by laving water upon them when they attempted -to return, urged them onwards; and we had the satisfaction in about -fifteen minutes to see them all safe on the other side. It was -a matter of greater difficulty to manage the asses; their natural stubbornness -of disposition made them endure a great deal of pelting and shoving -before they would venture into the water; and when they had reached -the middle of the stream, four of them turned back, in spite of every -exertion to get them forwards. Two hours were spent in getting -the whole of them over; an hour more was employed in transporting the -baggage; and it was near sunset before the canoe returned, when Demba -Sego and myself embarked in this dangerous passage-boat, which the least -motion was like to overset. The king’s nephew thought this -a proper time to have a peep into a tin box of mine that stood in the -fore part of the canoe; and in stretching out his band for it, he unfortunately -destroyed the equilibrium, and overset the canoe. Luckily we were -not far advanced, and got back to the shore without much difficulty; -from whence, after wringing the water from our clothes, we took a fresh -departure, and were soon afterwards safely landed in Kasson.<br> -<br> -<br> -<br> -CHAPTER VI - TIGGITY SEGO’S PALAVER<br> -<br> -<br> -<br> -We no sooner found ourselves safe in Kasson than Demba Sego told me -that we were now in his uncle’s dominions, and he hoped I would -consider, being now out of danger, the obligation I owed to him, and -make him a suitable return for the trouble he had taken on my account -by a handsome present. This, as he knew how much had been pilfered -from me at Joag, was rather an unexpected proposition, and I began to -fear that I had not much improved my condition by crossing the water; -but as it would have been folly to complain I made no observation upon -his conduct, and gave him seven bars of amber and some tobacco, with -which he seemed to be content.<br> -<br> -After a long day’s journey, in the course of which I observed -a number of large loose nodules of white granite, we arrived at Teesee -on the evening of December 29th, and were accommodated in Demba Sego’s -hut. The next morning he introduced me to his father, Tiggity -Sego, brother to the king of Kasson, chief of Teesee. The old -man viewed me with great earnestness, having never, he said, beheld -but one white man before, whom by his description I immediately knew -to be Major Houghton.<br> -<br> -In the afternoon one of his slaves eloped; and a general alarm being -given, every person that had a horse rode into the woods, in the hopes -of apprehending him, and Demba Sego begged the use of my horse for the -same purpose. I readily consented; and in about an hour they all -returned with the slave, who was severely flogged, and afterwards put -in irons. On the day following (December 31st) Demba Sego was -ordered to go with twenty horsemen to a town in Gedumah, to adjust some -dispute with the Moors, a party of whom were supposed to have stolen -three horses from Teesee. Demba begged a second the time use of -my horse, adding that the sight of my bridle and saddle would give him -consequence among the Moors. This request also I readily granted, -and he promised to return at the end of three days. During his -absence I amused myself with walking about the town, and conversing -with the natives, who attended me everywhere with great kindness and -curiosity, and supplied me with milk, eggs, and what other provisions -I wanted, on very easy terms.<br> -<br> -Teesee is a large unwalled town, having no security against the attack -of an enemy except a sort of citadel in which Tiggity and his family -constantly reside. This town, according to the report of the natives, -was formerly inhabited only by a few Foulah shepherds, who lived in -considerable affluence by means of the excellent meadows in the neighbourhood, -in which they reared great herds of cattle. But their prosperity -attracting the envy of some Mandingoes, the latter drove out the shepherds, -and took possession of their lands.<br> -<br> -The present inhabitants, though they possess both cattle and corn in -abundance, are not over nice in articles of diet; rats, moles, squirrels, -snakes, locusts, are eaten without scruple by the highest and lowest. -My people were one evening invited to a feast given by some of the townsmen, -where, after making a hearty meal of what they thought fish and kouskous, -one of them found a piece of hard skin in the dish, and brought it along -with him to show me what sort of fish they had been eating. On -examining the skin I found they had been feasting on a large snake. -Another custom still more extraordinary is that no woman is allowed -to eat an egg. This prohibition, whether arising from ancient -superstition or from the craftiness of some old bushreen who loved eggs -himself, is rigidly adhered to, and nothing will more affront a woman -of Teesee than to offer her an egg. The custom is the more singular, -as the men eat eggs without scruple in the presence of their wives, -and I never observed the same prohibition in any other of the Mandingo -countries.<br> -<br> -The third day after his son’s departure, Tiggity Sego held a palaver -on a very extraordinary occasion, which I attended; and the debates -on both sides of the question displayed much ingenuity. The case -was this:- A young man, a kafir of considerable affluence, who had recently -married a young and handsome wife, applied to a very devout bushreen, -or Mussalman priest, of his acquaintance, to procure him saphies for -his protection during the approaching war. The bushreen complied -with the request; and in order, as he pretended, to render the saphies -more efficacious, enjoined the young man to avoid any nuptial intercourse -with his bride for the space of six weeks. Severe as the injunction -was, the kafir strictly obeyed; and, without telling his wife the real -cause, absented himself from her company. In the meantime, it -began to be whispered at Teesee that the bushreen, who always performed -his evening devotions at the door of the kafir’s hut, was more -intimate with the young wife than he ought to be. At first the -good husband was unwilling to suspect the honour of his sanctified friend, -and one whole month elapsed before any jealousy rose in his mind, but -hearing the charge repeated, he at last interrogated his wife on the -subject, who frankly confessed that the bushreen had seduced her. -Hereupon the kafir put her into confinement, and called a palaver upon -the bushreen’s conduct. The fact was clearly proved against -him; and he was sentenced to be sold into slavery, or to find two slaves -for his redemption, according to the pleasure of the complainant. -The injured husband, however, was unwilling to proceed against his friend -to such extremity, and desired rather to have him publicly flogged before -Tiggity Sego’s gate. This was agreed to, and the sentence -was immediately executed. The culprit was tied by the hands to -a strong stake; and a long black rod being brought forth, the executioner, -after flourishing it round his head for some time, applied it with such -force and dexterity to the bushreen’s back as to make him roar -until the woods resounded with his screams. The surrounding multitude, -by their hooting and laughing, manifested how much they enjoyed the -punishment of this old gallant; and it is worthy of remark that the -number of stripes was precisely the same as are enjoined by the Mosaic -law, <i>forty, save one</i>.<br> -<br> -As there appeared great probability that Teesee, from its being a frontier -town, would be much exposed during the war to the predatory incursions -of the Moors of Gedumah, Tiggity Sego had, before my arrival, sent round -to the neighbouring villages to beg or to purchase as much provisions -as would afford subsistence to the inhabitants for one whole year, independently -of the crop on the ground, which the Moors might destroy. This -project was well received by the country people, and they fixed a day -on which to bring all the provisions they could spare to Teesee; and -as my horse was not yet returned, I went, in the afternoon of January -4th, 1796, to meet the escort with the provisions.<br> -<br> -It was composed of about 400 men, marching in good order, with corn -and ground nuts in large calabashes upon their heads. They were -preceded by a strong guard of bowmen, and followed by eight musicians -or singing men. As soon as they approached the town the latter -began a song, every verse of which was answered by the company, and -succeeded by a few strokes on the large drums. In this manner -they proceeded, amidst the acclamations of the populace, till they reached -the house of Tiggity Sego, where the loads were deposited; and in the -evening they all assembled under the bentang tree, and spent the night -in dancing and merriment.<br> -<br> -On the 5th of January an embassy of ten people belonging to Almami Abdulkader, -king of Foota-Torra, a country to the west of Bondou, arrived at Teesee; -and desiring Tiggity to call an assembly of the inhabitants, announced -publicly their king’s determination to this effect:- ‘That -unless all the people of Kasson would embrace the Mohammedan religion, -and evince their conversion by saying eleven public prayers, he, the -king of Foota-Torra, could not possibly stand neuter in the present -contest, but would certainly join his arms to those of Kajaaga.’ -A message of this nature from so powerful a prince could not fail to -create great alarm; and the inhabitants of Teesee, after a long consultation, -agreed to conform to his good pleasure, humiliating as it was to them. -Accordingly, one and all publicly offered up eleven prayers, which were -considered a sufficient testimony of their having renounced paganism, -and embraced the doctrines of the prophet.<br> -<br> -It was time 8th of January before Demba Sego returned with my horse; -and being quite wearied out with the delay, I went immediately to inform -his father that I should set out for Kooniakary early the next day. -The old man made many frivolous objections, and at length gave me to -understand that I must not think of departing without first paying him -the same duties he was entitled to receive from all travellers; besides -which he expected, he said, some acknowledgment for his kindness towards -use. Accordingly, on the morning of the 9th, my friend Demba, -with a number of people, came to me, and said that they were sent by -Tiggity Sego for my present, and wished to see what goods I had appropriated -for that purpose. I knew that resistance was hopeless, and complaint -unavailing: and being in some measure prepared by the intimation I had -received the night before, I quietly offered him seven bars of amber -and five of tobacco. After surveying these articles for some time -very coolly, Demba laid them down, and told me that this was not a present -for a man of Tiggity Sego’s consequence, who had it in his power -to take whatever he pleased from me. He added, that if I did not -consent to make him a larger offering he would carry all my baggage -to his father, and let him choose for himself. I had no time for -reply, for Demba and his attendants immediately began to open my bundles, -and spread the different articles upon the floor, where they underwent -a more strict examination than they had done at Joag. Everything -that pleased them they took without scruple: and amongst other things, -Demba seized the tin box that had so much attracted his attention in -crossing the river. Upon collecting the scattered remains of my -little fortune after these people had left me, I found that, as at Joag -I had been plundered of half, so here, without even the shadow of accusation, -I was deprived of half the remainder. The blacksmith himself, -though a native of Kasson, had also been compelled to open his bundles, -and take an oath that the different articles they contained were his -own exclusive property. There was, however, no remedy, and having -been under some obligation to Demba Sego for his attention towards me -in the journey from Joag, I did not reproach him for his rapacity, but -determined to quit Teesee, at all events, the next morning. In -the meanwhile, in order to raise the drooping spirits of my attendants, -I purchased a fat sheep, and had it dressed for our dinner.<br> -<br> -Early in the morning of January 10th, therefore, I left Teesee, and -about mid-day ascended a ridge, from whence we had a distant view of -the hills round Kooniakary. In the evening we reached a small -village, where we slept, and, departing from thence the next morning, -crossed in a few hours a narrow but deep stream called Krieko, a branch -of the Senegal. About two miles farther to the eastward we passed -a large town called Madina, and at two o’clock came in sight of -Jumbo, the blacksmith’s native town, from whence he had been absent -more than four years. Soon after this, his brother, who had by -some means been apprised of his coming, came out to meet him, accompanied -by a singing man. He brought a horse for the blacksmith, that -he might enter his native town in a dignified manner; and he desired -each of us to put a good charge of powder into our guns. The singing -man now led the way, followed by the two brothers, and we were presently -joined by a number of people from the town, all of whom demonstrated -great joy at seeing their old acquaintance the blacksmith by the most -extravagant jumping and singing. On entering the town the singing -man began an extempore song in praise of the blacksmith, extolling his -courage in having overcome so many difficulties, and concluding with -a strict injunction to his friends to dress him plenty of victuals.<br> -<br> -When we arrived at the blacksmith’s place of residence we dismounted, -and fired our muskets. The meeting between him and his relations -was very tender; for these rude children of nature, free from restraint, -display their emotions in the strongest and most expressive manner. -Amidst these transports the blacksmith’s aged mother was led forth, -leaning upon a staff. Every one made way for her, and she stretched -out her hand to bid her son welcome. Being totally blind, she -stroked his hands, arms, and face with great care, and seemed highly -delighted that her latter days were blessed by his return, and that -her ears once more heard the music of his voice.<br> -<br> -During the tumult of these congratulations I had seated myself apart -by the side of one of the huts, being unwilling to interrupt the flow -of filial and parental tenderness; and the attention of the company -was so entirely taken up with the blacksmith that I believe none of -his friends had observed me. When all the people present had seated -themselves the blacksmith was desired by his father to give them some -account of his adventures; and silence being commanded, he began, and -after repeatedly thanking God for the success that had attended him, -related every material occurrence that had happened to him from his -leasing Kasson to his arrival at the Gambia, his employment and success -in those parts, and the dangers he had escaped in returning to his native -country. In the latter part of his narration he had frequently -occasion to mention me; and after many strong expressions concerning -my kindness to him he pointed to the place where I sat, and exclaimed, -“<i>Affille ibi siring</i>!” - (“See him sitting there!”) -In a moment all eyes were turned upon me; I appeared like a being dropped -from the clouds; every one was surprised that they had not observed -me before; and a few women and children expressed great uneasiness at -being so near a man of such an uncommon appearance.<br> -<br> -By degrees, however, their apprehensions subsided, and when the blacksmith -assured them that I was perfectly inoffensive, and would hurt nobody, -some of them ventured so far as to examine the texture of my clothes; -but many of them were still very suspicious; and when by accident I -happened to move myself, or look at the young children, their mothers -would scamper off with them with the greatest precipitations. -In a few hours, however, they all because reconciled to me.<br> -<br> -With these worthy people I spent the remainder of that and the whole -of the ensuing day, in feasting and merriment; and the blacksmith declared -he would not quit me during my stay at Kooniakary - for which place -we set out early on the morning of the 14th of January, and arrived -about the middle of the day at Soolo, a small village three miles to -the south of it.<br> -<br> -As this place was somewhat out of the direct road, it is necessary to -observe that I went thither to visit a slatee or Gambia trader, of great -note and reputation, named Salim Daucari. He was well known to -Dr. Laidley, who had trusted him with effects to the value of five slaves, -and had given me an order for the whole of the debt. We luckily -found him at home, and he received me with great kindness and attention.<br> -<br> -It is remarkable, however, that the king of Kasson was by some means -immediately apprised of my motions; for I had been at Soolo but a few -hours before Sambo Sego, his second son, came thither with a party of -horse, to inquire what had prevented me from proceeding to Kooniakary, -and waiting immediately upon the king, who, he said, was impatient to -see me. Salim Daucari made my apology, and promised to accompany -me to Kooniakary the same evening. We accordingly departed from -Soolo at sunset, and in about an hour entered Kooniakary. But -as the king had gone to sleep we deferred the interview till next morning, -and slept at the hut of Sambo Sego.<br> -<br> -<br> -<br> -CHAPTER VII - INTERVIEW WITH KING DEMBA SEGO JALLA<br> -<br> -<br> -<br> -About eight o’clock in the morning of January 15th, 1796, we went -to an audience of the king (Demba Sego Jalla), but the crowd of people -to see me was so great that I could scarcely get admittance. A -passage being at length obtained, I made my bow to the monarch, whom -we found sitting upon a mat, in a large hut. He appeared to be -a man of about sixty years of age. His success in war, and the -mildness of his behaviour in time of peace, had much endeared him to -all his subjects. He surveyed me with great attention; and when -Salim Daucari explained to him the object of my journey, and my reasons -for passing through his country, the good old king appeared not only -perfectly satisfied, but promised me every assistance in his power. -He informed me that he had seen Major Houghton, and presented him with -a white horse; but that, after crossing the kingdom of Kaarta, he had -lost his life among the Moors, in what manner he could not inform me. -When this audience was ended we returned to our lodging, and I made -up a small present for the king out of the few effects that were left -me; for I had not yet received anything from Salim Daucari. This -present, though inconsiderable in itself, was well received by the king, -who sent me in return a large white bullock. The sight of this -animal quite delighted my attendants; not so much on account of its -bulk, as from its being of a white colour, which is considered as a -particular mark of favour. But although the king himself was well -disposed towards me, and readily granted me permission to pass through -his territories, I soon discovered that very great and unexpected obstacles -were likely to impede my progress. Besides the war which was on -the point of breaking out between Kasson and Kajaaga, I was told that -the next kingdom of Kaarta, through which my route lay, was involved -in the issue, and was furthermore threatened with hostilities on the -part of Bambarra. The king himself informed me of these circumstances, -and advised me to stay in the neighbourhood of Kooniakary till such -time as he could procure proper information respecting Bambarra, which -he expected to do in the course of four or five days, as he had already, -he said, sent four messengers into Kaarta for that purpose. I -readily submitted to this proposal, and went to Soolo, to stay there -till the return of one of those messengers. This afforded me a -favourable opportunity of receiving what money Salim Daucari could spare -me on Dr. Laidley’s account. I succeeded in receiving the -value of there slaves, chiefly in gold dust; and being anxious to proceed -as quickly as possible, I begged Daucari to use his interest with the -king to allow me a guide by the way of Fooladoo, as I was informed that -the war had already commenced between the kings of Bambarra and Kaarta. -Daucari accordingly set out for Kooniakary on the morning of the 20th, -and the same evening returned with the king’s answer, which was -to this purpose - that the king had, many years ago, made an agreement -with Daisy, king of Kaarta, to send all merchants and travellers through -his dominions; but that if I wished to take the route through Fooladoo -I had his permission so to do; though he could not, consistently with -his agreement, lend me a guide. Having felt the want of regal -protection in a former part of my journey, I was unwilling to hazard -a repetition of the hardships I had then experienced, especially as -the money I had received was probably the last supply that I should -obtain. I therefore determined to wait for the return of the messengers -from Kaarta.<br> -<br> -In the interim it began to be whispered abroad that I had received plenty -of gold from Salim Daucari, and, on the morning of the 23rd, Sambo Sego -paid me a visit, with a party of horsemen. He insisted upon knowing -the exact amount of the money I had obtained, declaring that whatever -the sum was, one-half of it must go to the king; besides which he intimated -that he expected a handsome present for himself, as being the king’s -son, and for his attendants, as being the king’s relations. -I prepared to submit; and if Salim Daucari had not interposed all my -endeavours to mitigate this oppressive claim would have been of no avail. -Salim at last prevailed upon Sambo to accept sixteen bars of European -merchandise, and some powder and ball, as a complete payment of every -demand that could be made upon me in the kingdom of Kasson.<br> -<br> -<i>January </i>26. - In the forenoon I went to the top of a high hill -to the southward of Soolo, where I had a most enchanting prospect of -the country. The number of towns and villages, and the extensive -cultivation around them, surpassed everything I had yet seen in Africa. -A gross calculation may be formed of the number of inhabitants in this -delightful plain by considering that the king of Kasson can raise four -thousand fighting men by the sound of his war-drum. In traversing -the rocky eminences of this hill, which are almost destitute of vegetation, -I observed a number of large holes in the crevasses and fissures of -the rocks, where the wolves and hyænas take refuge during the -day.<br> -<br> -<i>February </i>1. - The messengers arrived from Kaarta, and brought -intelligence that the war had not yet commenced between Bambarra and -Kaarta, and that I might probably pass through Kaarta before the Bambarra -army invaded that country.<br> -<br> -<i>February </i>3. - Early in the morning two guides on horseback came -from Kooniakary to conduct me to the frontiers of Kaarta. I accordingly -took leave of Salim Daucari, and parted for the last time from my fellow-traveller -the blacksmith, whose kind solicitude for my welfare had been so conspicuous, -and about ten o’clock departed from Soolo. We travelled -this day through a rocky and hilly country, along the banks of the river -Krieko, and at sunset came to the village of Soomo, where we slept.<br> -<br> -<i>February </i>4. - We departed from Soomo, and continued our route -along the banks of the Krieko, which are everywhere well cultivated, -and swarm with inhabitants. At this time they were increased by -the number of people that had flown thither from Kaarta on account of -the Bambarra war. In the afternoon we reached Kimo, a large village, -the residence of Madi Konko, governor of the hilly country of Kasson, -which is called Sorroma. From hence the guides appointed by the -king of Kasson returned, to join in the expedition against Kajaaga; -and I waited until the 6th before I could prevail on Madi Konko to appoint -me a guide to Kaarta.<br> -<br> -<i>February </i>7. - Departing from Kimo, with Madi Konko’s son -as a guide, we continued our course along the banks of the Krieko until -the afternoon, when we arrived at Kangee, a considerable town. -The Krieko is here but a small rivulet. This beautiful stream -takes its rise a little to the eastward of this town, and descends with -a rapid and noisy current until it reaches the bottom of the high hill -called Tappa, where it becomes more placid, and winds gently through -the lovely plains of Kooniakary; after which, having received an additional -branch from the north, it is lost in the Senegal, somewhere near the -falls of Felow.<br> -<br> -<i>February </i>8. - This day we travelled over a rough stony country, -and having passed Seimpo and a number of other villages, arrived in -the afternoon at Lackarago, a small village which stands upon the ridge -of hills that separates the kingdoms of Kasson and Kaarta. In -the course of the day we passed many hundreds of people flying from -Kaarta with their families and effects.<br> -<br> -<i>February </i>9. - Early in the morning we departed from Lackarago, -and a little to the eastward came to the brow of a hill from whence -we had an extensive view of the country. Towards the south-east -were perceived some very distant hills, which our guide told us were -the mountains of Fooladoo. We travelled with great difficulty -down a stony and abrupt precipice, and continued our way in the bed -of a dry river course, where the trees, meeting overhead, made the place -dark and cool. In a little time we reached the bottom of this -romantic glen, and about ten o’clock emerged from between two -rocky hills, and found ourselves on the level and sandy plains of Kaarta. -At noon we arrived at a <i>korree</i>, or watering place, where for -a few strings of beads I purchased as much milk and corn-meal as we -could eat; indeed, provisions are here so cheap, and the shepherds live -in such affluence, that they seldom ask any return for what refreshments -a traveller receives from them. From this korree we reached Feesurah -at sunset, where we took up our lodging for the night.<br> -<br> -<i>February </i>10. - We continued at Feesurah all this day, to have -a few clothes washed, and learn more exactly the situation of affairs -before we ventured towards the capital.<br> -<br> -<i>February </i>11 - Our landlord, taking advantage of the unsettled -state of the country, demanded so extravagant a sum for our lodging -that, suspecting he wished for an opportunity to quarrel with us, I -refused to submit to his exorbitant demand; but my attendants were so -much frightened at the reports of approaching war that they refused -to proceed any farther unless I could settle matters with him, and induce -him to accompany us to Kemoo, for our protection on the road. -This I accomplished with some difficulty; and by a present of a blanket -which I had brought with me to sleep in, and for which our landlord -had conceived a very great liking, matters were at length amicably adjusted, -and he mounted his horse and led the way. He was one of those -negroes who, together with the ceremonial part of the Mohammedan religion, -retain all their ancient superstitions, and even drink strong liquors. -They are called Johars, or Jowars, and in this kingdom form a very numerous -and powerful tribe. We had no sooner got into a dark need lonely -part of the first wood than he made a sign for us to stop, and, taking -hold of a hollow piece of bamboo that hung as an amulet round his neck, -whistled very loud there times. I confess I was somewhat startled, -thinking it was a signal for some of his companions to come and attack -us; but he assured me that it was done merely with a view to ascertain -what success we were likely to meet with on our present journey. -He then dismounted, laid his spear across the road, and having said -a number of short prayers, concluded with three loud whistles; after -which he listened for some time, as if in expectation of an answer, -and receiving none, told us we might proceed without fear, for there -was no danger. About noon we passed a number of large villages -quite deserted, the inhabitants having fled into Kasson to avoid the -horrors of war. We reached Karankalla at sunset. This formerly -was a large town, but having been plundered by the Bambarrans about -four years ago, nearly one-half of it is still in ruins.<br> -<br> -<i>February </i>12. - At daylight we departed from Karankalla, and as -it was but a short day’s journey to Kemmoo, we travelled slower -than usual, and amused ourselves by collecting such eatable fruits as -grew near the road-side. About noon we saw at a distance the capital -of Kaarta, situated in the middle of an open plain - the country for -two miles round being cleared of wood, by the great consumption of that -article for building and fuel - and we entered the town about two o’clock -in the afternoon.<br> -<br> -We proceeded without stopping to the court before the king’s residence; -but I was so completely surrounded by the gazing multitude that I did -not attempt to dismount, but sent in the landlord and Madi Konki’s -son, to acquaint the king of my arrival. In a little time they -returned, accompanied by a messenger from the king, signifying that -he would see me in the evening; and in the meantime the messenger had -orders to procure me a lodging and see that the crowd did not molest -me. He conducted me into a court, at the door of which he stationed -a man with a stick in his hand to keep off the mob, and then showed -me a large hut in which I was to lodge. I had scarcely seated -myself in this spacious apartment when the mob entered; it was found -impossible to keep them out, and I was surrounded by as many as the -hut could contain. When the first party, however, had seen me, -and asked a few questions, they retired to make room for another company; -and in this manner the hut was filled and emptied thirteen different -times.<br> -<br> -A little before sunset the king sent to inform me that he was at leisure, -and wished to see me. I followed the messenger through a number -of courts surrounded with high walls, where I observed plenty of dry -grass, bundled up like hay, to fodder the horses, in case the town should -be invested. On entering the court in which the king was sitting -I was astonished at the number of his attendants, and at the good order -that seemed to prevail among them; they were all seated - the fighting -men on the king’s right hand and the women and children on the -left, leaving a space between them for my passage. The king, whose -name was Daisy Koorabarri, was not to be distinguished from his subjects -by any superiority in point of dress; a bank of earth, about two feet -high, upon which was spread a leopard’s skin, constituted the -only mark of royal dignity. When I had seated myself upon the -ground before him, and related the various circumstances that had induced -me to pass through his country, and my reasons for soliciting his protections, -he appeared perfectly satisfied; but said it was not in his power at -present to afford me much assistance, for that all sort of communication -between Kaarta and Bambarra had been interrupted for some time past; -and as Mansong, the king of Bambarra, with his army, had entered Fooladoo -in his way to Kaarta, there was but little hope of my reaching Bambarra -by any of the usual routes, inasmuch as, coming from an enemy’s -country, I should certainly be plundered, or taken for a spy. -If his country had been at peace, he said, I might have remained with -him until a more favourable opportunity offered; but, as matters stood -at present, he did not wish me to continue in Kaarta, for fear some -accident should befall me, in which case my countrymen might say that -he had murdered a white man. He would therefore advise me to return -into Kasson, and remain there until the war should terminate, which -would probably happen in the course of three or four months, after which, -if he was alive, he said, he would be glad to see me, and if he was -dead his sons would take care of me.<br> -<br> -This advice was certainly well meant on the part of the king, and perhaps -I was to blame in not following it; but I reflected that the hot months -were approaching, and I dreaded the thoughts of spending the rainy season -in the interior of Africa. These considerations, and the aversion -I felt at the idea of returning without having made a greater progress -in discovery, made sue determine to go forward; and though the king -could not give me a guide to Bambarra, I begged that he would allow -a man to accompany me as near the frontiers of his kingdom as was consistent -with safety. Finding that I was determined to proceed, the king -told me that one route still remained, but that, he said, was by no -means free from danger - which was to go from Kaarta into the Moorish -kingdom of Ludamar, from whence I might pass by a circuitous route into -Bambarra. If I wished to follow this route he would appoint people -to conduct me to Jarra, the frontier town of Ludamar. He then -inquired very particularly how I had been treated since I had left the -Gambia, and asked, in a jocular way, how many slaves I expected to carry -home with me on my return. He was about to proceed when a man -mounted on a fine Moorish horse, which was covered with sweat and foam, -entered the court, and signifying that he had something of importance -to communicate, the king immediately took up his sandals, which is the -signal to strangers to retire. I accordingly took leave, but desired -my boy to stay about the place, in order to learn something of the intelligence -that this messenger had brought. In about an hour the boy returned, -and informed me that the Bambarra army had left Fooladoo, and was on -its march towards Kaarta; that the man I had seen, who had brought this -intelligence, was one of the scouts, or watchmen, employed by the king, -each of whom has his particular station (commonly on some rising ground) -from whence he has the best view of the country, and watches the motions -of the enemy.<br> -<br> -<i>February </i>13. - At daylight I sent my horse-pistols and holsters -as a present to the king, and being very desirous to get away from a -place which was likely soon to become the seat of war, I begged the -messenger to inform the king that I wished to depart from Kemmoo as -soon as he should find it convenient to appoint me a guide. In -about an hour the king sent his messenger to thank me for the present, -and eight horsemen to conduct me to Jarra. They told me that the -king wished me to proceed to Jarra with all possible expedition, that -they might return before anything decisive should happen between the -armies of Bambarra need Kaarta. We accordingly departed forthwith -from Kemmoo, accompanied by three of Daisy’s sons, and about two -hundred horsemen, who kindly undertook to see me a little way on my -journey.<br> -<br> -<br> -<br> -CHAPTER VIII - ADVENTURES BETWEEN KEMMOO AND JARRA<br> -<br> -<br> -<br> -On the evening of the day of our departure from Kemmoo (the king’s -eldest son and great part of the horsemen having returned) we reached -a village called Marina, where we slept. During the night some -thieves broke into the hut where I had deposited my baggage, and having -cut open one of my bundles, stole a quantity of beads, part of my clothes, -and some amber and gold, which happened to be in one of the pockets. -I complained to my protectors, but without effect. The next day -(February 14th) was far advanced before we departed from Marina, and -we travelled slowly, on account of the excessive heat, until four o’clock -in the afternoon, when two negroes were observed sitting among some -thorny bushes, at a little distance from the road. The king’s -people, taking it for granted that they were runaway slaves, cocked -their muskets, and rode at full speed in different directions through -the bushes, in order to surround them, and prevent their escaping. -The negroes, however, waited with great composure until we came within -bowshot of them, when each of them took from his quiver a handful of -arrows, and putting two between his teeth and one in his bow, waved -to us with his hand to keep at a distance; upon which one of the king’s -people called out to the strangers to give some account of themselves. -They said that “they were natives of Toorda, a neighbouring village, -and had come to that place to gather <i>tomberongs</i>.” -These are small farinaceous berries, of a yellow colour and delicious -taste, which I knew to be the fruit of the <i>rhamnus lotus </i>of Linnæus.<br> -<br> -The lotus is very common in all the kingdoms which I visited; but is -found in the greatest plenty on the sandy soil of Kaarta, Ludamar, and -the northern parts of Bambarra, where it is one of the most common shrubs -of the country. I had observed the same species at Gambia.<br> -<br> -As this shrub is found in Tunis, and also in the negro kingdoms, and -as it furnishes the natives of the latter with a food resembling bread, -and also with a sweet liquor which is much relished by them, there can -be little doubt of its being the lotus mentioned by Pliny as the food -of the Libyan Lotophagi. An army may very well have been fed with -the bread I have tasted, made of the meal of the fruit, as is said by -Pliny to have been done in Libya; and as the taste of the bread is sweet -and agreeable, it is not likely that the soldiers would complain of -it.<br> -<br> -We arrived in the evening at the village of Toorda; when all the rest -of the king’s people turned back except two, who remained with -me as guides to Jarra.<br> -<br> -<i>February </i>15. - I departed from Toorda, and about two o’clock -came to a considerable town, called Funingkedy. As we approached -the town the inhabitants were much alarmed; for, as one of my guides -wore a turban, they mistook us for some Moorish banditti. This -misapprehension was soon cleared up, and we were well received by a -Gambia slatee, who resides at this town, and at whose house we lodged.<br> -<br> -<i>February </i>16. - We were informed that a number of people would -go from this town to Jarra on the day following; and as the road was -much infested by the Moors we resolved to stay and accompany the travellers.<br> -<br> -About two o’clock, as I was lying asleep upon a bullock’s -hide behind the door of the hut, I was awakened by the screams of women, -and a general clamour and confusion among the inhabitants. At -first I suspected that the Bambarrans had actually entered the town; -but observing my boy upon the top of one of the huts, I called to him -to know what was the matter. He informed me that the Moors were -come a second time to steal the cattle, and that they were now close -to the town. I mounted the roof of the hut, and observed a large -herd of bullocks coming towards the town, followed by five Moors on -horseback, who drove the cattle forward with their muskets. When -they had reached the wells which are close to the town, the Moors selected -from the herd sixteen of the finest beasts, and drove them off at full -cell gallop. During this transaction the townspeople, to the number -of five hundred, stood collected close to the walls of the town; and -when the Moors drove the cattle away, though they passed within pistol-shot -of them, the inhabitants scarcely made a show of resistance. I -only saw four muskets fired, which, being loaded with gunpowder of the -negroes’ own manufacture, did no execution. Shortly after -this I observed a number of people supporting a young man on horseback, -and conducting him slowly towards the town. This was one of the -herdsmen, who, attempting to throw his spear, had been wounded by a -shot from one of the Moors. His mother walked on before, quite -frantic with grief, clapping her hands, and enumerating the good qualities -of her son. “<i>Ee maffo fenio</i>!” (“He -never told a lie!”) said the disconsolate mother as her wounded -son was carried in at the gate - “<i>Ee maffo fonio</i> <i>abada</i>!” -(“He never told a lie; no, never!”) When they had -conveyed him to his hut, and laid him upon a mat, all the spectators -joined in lamenting his fate, by screaming and howling in the most piteous -manner.<br> -<br> -After their grief had subsided a little, I was desired to examine the -wound. I found that the ball had passed quite through his leg, -having fractured both bones a little below the knee: the poor boy was -faint from the loss of blood, and his situation withal so very precarious, -that I could not console his relations with any great hopes of his recovery. -However, to give him a possible chance, I observed to them that it was -necessary to cut off his leg above the knee. This proposal made -every one start with horror; they had never heard of such a method of -cure, and would by no means give their consent to it; indeed, they evidently -considered me a sort of cannibal for proposing so cruel and unheard-of -an operation, which, in their opinion, would be attended with more pain -and danger than the wound itself. The patient was therefore committed -to the care of some old bashreens, who endeavoured to secure him a passage -into paradise by whispering in his ear some Arabic sentences, and desiring -him to repeat them. After many unsuccessful attempts, the poor -heathen at last pronounced, “<i>La illah el Allah, Mahamet rasowl -allahi</i>” (“There is but one God, and Mohammed is -his Prophet”); and the disciples of the Prophet assured his mother -that her son had given sufficient evidence of his faith, and would be -happy in a future state. He died the same evening.<br> -<br> -<i>February </i>17. - My guides informed me that in order to avoid the -Moorish banditti it was necessary to travel in the night; we accordingly -departed from Funingkedy in the afternoon, accompanied by about thirty -people, carrying their effects with them into Ludamar, for fear of the -war. We travelled with great silence and expedition until midnight, -when we stopped in a sort of enclosure, near a small village; but the -thermometer being so low as 68 degrees, none of the negroes could sleep -on account of the cold.<br> -<br> -At daybreak on the 18th we resumed our journey, and at eight o’clock -passed Simbing, the frontier village of Ludamar, situated on a narrow -pass between two rocky hills, and surrounded with a high wall. -From this village Major Houghton (being deserted by his negro servants, -who refused to follow him into the Moorish country) wrote his last letter -with a pencil to Dr. Laidley. This brave but unfortunate man, -heaving surmounted many difficulties, had taken a northerly direction, -had endeavoured to pass through the kingdom of Ludamar, where I afterwards -learned the following particulars concerning his melancholy fate:- On -his arrival at Jarra he got acquainted with certain Moorish merchants -who were travelling to Tisheet (a place near the salt pits in the Great -Desert, ten days’ journey to the northward) to purchase salt; -and the Major, at the expense of a musket and some tobacco, engaged -them to convey him thither. It is impossible to form any other -opinion on this determination than that the Moors intentionally deceived -him, either with regard to the route that he wished to pursue, or the -state of the intermediate country between Jarra and Timbuctoo. -Their intention probably was to rob and leave him in the desert. -At the end of two days he suspected their treachery, and insisted on -returning to Jarra. Finding him persist in this determination, -the Moors robbed him of everything he possessed, and went off with their -camels; the poor Major being thus deserted, returned on foot to a watering-place -in possession of the Moors, called Tarra. He had been some days -without food, and the unfeeling Moors refusing to give him any, he sank -at last under his distresses. Whether he actually perished of -hunger, or was murdered outright by the savage Mohammedans, is not certainly -known; his body was dragged into the woods, and I was shown at a distance -the spot where his remains were left to perish.<br> -<br> -About four miles to the north of Simbing we came to a small stream of -water, where we observed a number of wild horses they were all of one -colour, and galloped away from us at an easy rate, frequently stopping -and looking back. The negroes hunt them for food, and their flesh -is much esteemed.<br> -<br> -About noon we arrived at Jarra, a large town situated at the bottom -of some rocky hills.<br> -<br> -<br> -<br> -CHAPTER IX - THE TOWN OF JARRA - DETAINED BY THE MOORS.<br> -<br> -<br> -<br> -The town of Jarra is of considerable extent; the houses are built of -clay and stone intermixed - the clay answering the purpose of mortar. -It is situated in the Moorish kingdom of Ludamar; but the major part -of the inhabitants are negroes, from the borders of the southern states, -who prefer a precarious protection under the Moors, which they purchase -by a tribute, rather than continue exposed to their predatory hostilities. -The tribute they pay is considerable; and they manifest towards their -Moorish superiors the most unlimited obedience and submission, and are -treated by them with the utmost indignity and contempt. The Moors -of this and the other states adjoining the country of the negroes resemble -in their persons the mulattoes of the West Indies to so great a degree -as not easily to be distinguished from them; and, in truth, the present -generation seem to be a mixed race between the Moors (properly so called) -of the north and the negroes of the south, possessing many of the worst -qualities of both nations.<br> -<br> -Of the origin of these Moorish tribes, as distinguished from the inhabitants -of Barbary, from whom they are divided by the Great Desert, nothing -further seems to be known than what is related by John Leo, the African, -whose account may be abridged as follows:-<br> -<br> -Before the Arabian conquest, about the middle of the seventh century, -all the inhabitants of Africa, whether they were descended from Numidians, -Phœnicians, Carthaginians, Romans, Vandals, or Goths, were comprehended -under the general name of <i>Mauri</i>, or Moors. All these nations -were converted to the religion of Mohammed during the Arabian empire -under the Kaliphs. About this time many of the Numidian tribes, -who led a wandering life in the desert, and supported themselves upon -the produce of their cattle, retired southward across the Great Desert -to avoid the fury of the Arabians; and by one of those tribes, says -Leo (that of Zanhaga), were discovered, and conquered, the negro nations -on the Niger. By the Niger is here undoubtedly meant the river -of Senegal, which in the Mandingo language is <i>Bafing</i>, or the -Black River.<br> -<br> -To what extent these people are now spread over the African continent -it is difficult to ascertain. There is reason to believe that -their dominion stretches from west to east, in a narrow line or belt, -from the mouth of the Senegal (on the northern side of that river) to -the confines of Abyssinia. They are a subtle and treacherous race -of people, and take every opportunity of cheating and plundering the -credulous and unsuspecting negroes. But their manners and general -habits of life will be best explained as incidents occur in the course -of my narrative.<br> -<br> -The difficulties we had already encountered, the unsettled state of -the country, and, above all, the savage and overbearing deportment of -the Moors, had so completely frightened my attendants that they declared -they would rather relinquish every claim to reward than proceed one -step farther to the eastward. Indeed, the danger they incurred -of being seized by the Moors, and sold into slavery, became every day -more apparent; and I could not condemn their apprehensions. In -this situation, deserted by my attendants, and reflecting that my retreat -was cut off by the war behind me, and that a Moorish country of ten -days’ journey lay before me, I applied to Daman to obtain permission -from Ali, the chief or sovereign of Ludamar, that I might pass through -his country unmolested into Bambarra; and I hired one of Daman’s -slaves to accompany me thither, as soon as such permission should be -obtained. A messenger was despatched to Ali, who at this time -was encamped near Benowm; and as a present was necessary in order to -insure success, I sent him five garments of cotton cloth, which I purchased -of Daman for one of my fowling-pieces. Fourteen days elapsed in -settling this affair; but on the evening of the 26th of February, one -of Ali’s slaves arrived with directions, as he pretended, to conduct -me in safety as far as Goomba, and told me I was to pay him one garment -of blue cotton cloth for his attendance. My faithful boy, observing -that I was about to proceed without him, resolved to accompany me; and -told me, that though he wished me to turn back, he never entertained -any serious thoughts of deserting me, but had been advised to it by -Johnson, with a view to induce me to turn immediately for Gambia.<br> -<br> -<i>February </i>27. - I delivered most of my papers to Johnson, to convey -them to Gambia as soon as possible, reserving a duplicate for myself -in case of accidents. I likewise left in Daman’s possession -a bundle of clothes, and other things that were not absolutely necessary, -for I wished to diminish my baggage as much as possible, that the Moors -might have fewer inducements to plunder us.<br> -<br> -Things being thus adjusted, we departed from Jarra in the forenoon, -and slept at Troomgoomba, a small walled village, inhabited by a mixture -of negroes and Moors. On the day following (February 28th) we -reached Quira; and on the 29th, after a toilsome journey over a sandy -country, we came to Compe, a watering-place belonging to the Moors; -from whence, on the morning following, we proceeded to Deena, a large -town, and, like Jarra, built of stone and clay. The Moors are -here in greater proportion to the negroes than at Jarra. They -assembled round the hut of the negro where I lodged, and treated me -with the greatest insolence; they hissed, shouted, and abused me; they -even spat in my face, with a view to irritate me, and afford them a -pretext for seizing my baggage. But finding such insults had not -the desired effect, they had recourse to the final and decisive argument, -that I was a Christian, and of course that my property was lawful plunder -to the followers of Mohammed. They accordingly opened my bundles, -and robbed me of everything they fancied. My attendants, finding -that everybody could rob me with impunity, insisted on returning to -Jarra.<br> -<br> -The day following (March 2nd), I endeavoured, by all the means in my -power, to prevail upon my people to go on, but they still continued -obstinate; and having reason to fear some further insult from the fanatic -Moors, I resolved to proceed alone. Accordingly, the next morning, -about two o’clock, I departed from Deena. It was moonlight, -but the roaring of the wild beasts made it necessary to proceed with -caution.<br> -<br> -When I had reached a piece of rising ground about half a mile from the -town, I heard somebody halloo, and, looking back, saw my faithful boy -running after me. He informed me that Ali’s men had gone -back to Benowm, and that Daman’s negro was about to depart for -Jarra; but he said he had no doubt, if I would stop a little, that he -could persuade the latter to accompany us. I waited accordingly, -and in about an hour the boy returned with the negro; and we continued -travelling over a sandy country, covered chiefly with the <i>Asclepias -gigantea</i>, until mid-day, when we came to a number of deserted huts; -and seeing some appearances of water at a little distance, I sent the -boy to fill a soofroo; but as he was examining the place for water, -the roaring of a lion, that was probably on the same pursuit, induced -the frightened boy to return in haste, and we submitted patiently to -the disappointment. In the afternoon we reached a town inhabited -chiefly by Foulahs, called Samaming-koos.<br> -<br> -Next morning (March 4th), we set out for Sampaka, which place we reached -about two o’clock. On the road we observed immense quantities -of locusts; the trees were quite black with them.<br> -<br> -Sampaka is a large town, and when the Moors and Bambarrans were at war -was thrice attacked by the former; but they were driven off with great -loss, though the king of Bambarra was afterwards obliged to give up -this, and all the other towns as far as Goomba, in order to obtain a -peace. Here I lodged at the house of a negro who practised the -art of making gunpowder. He showed me a bag of nitre, very white, -but the crystals were much smaller than common. They procure it -in considerable quantities from the ponds, which are filled in the rainy -season, and to which the cattle resort for coolness during the heat -of the day. When the water is evaporated, a white efflorescence -is observed on the mud, which the natives collect and purify in such -a manner as to answer their purpose. The Moors supply them with -sulphur from the Mediterranean; and the process is completed by pounding -the different articles together in a wooden mortar. The grains -are very unequal, and the sound of its explosion is by no means so sharp -as that produced by European gunpowder.<br> -<br> -<i>March </i>5. - We departed from Sampaka at daylight. About -noon we stopped a little at a village called Dangali, and in the evening -arrived at Dalli. We saw upon the road two large herds of camels -feeding. When the Moors turn their camels to feed they tie up -one of their fore-legs to prevent their straying. This happened -to be a feast-day at Dalli, and the people were dancing before the dooty’s -house. But when they were informed that a white man was come into -the town they left off dancing and came to the place where I lodged, -walking in regular order, two and two, with the music before them. -They play upon a sort of flute; but instead of blowing into a hole in -the side they blow obliquely over the end, which is half shut by a thin -piece of wood; they govern the holes on the side with their fingers, -and play some simple and very plaintive airs. They continued to -dance and sing until midnight, during which time I was surrounded by -so great a crowd as made it necessary for me to satisfy their curiosity -by sitting still.<br> -<br> -<i>March </i>6. - We stopped here this morning because some of the townspeople, -who were going for Goomba on the day following, wished to accompany -us; but in order to avoid the crowd of people which usually assembled -in the evening we went to a negro village to the east of Dalli, called -Samee, where we were kindly received by the hospitable dooty, who on -this occasion killed two fine sheep, and invited his friends to come -and feast with him.<br> -<br> -<i>March </i>7. - Our landlord was so proud of the honour of entertaining -a white man that he insisted on my staying with him and his friends -until the cool of the evening, when he said he would conduct me to the -next village. As I was now within two days’ journey of Goomba, -I had no apprehensions from the Moors, and readily accepted the invitation. -I spent the forenoon very pleasantly with these poor negroes; their -company was the more acceptable, as the gentleness of their manners -presented a striking contrast to the rudeness and barbarity of the Moors. -They enlivened their conversation by drinking a fermented liquor made -from corn - the same sort of beer that I have described in a former -chapter; and better I never tasted in Great Britain.<br> -<br> -In the midst of this harmless festivity, I flattered myself that all -danger from the Moors was over. Fancy had already placed me on -the banks of the Niger, and presented to my imagination a thousand delightful -scenes in my future progress, when a party of Moors unexpectedly entered -the hut, and dispelled the golden dream. They came, they said, -by Ali’s orders, to convey me to his camp at Benowm. If -I went peaceably, they told me, I had nothing to fear; but if I refused -they had orders to bring me by force. I was struck dumb by surprise -and terror, which the Moors observing endeavoured to calm my apprehensions -by repeating the assurance that I had nothing to fear. Their visit, -they added, was occasioned by the curiosity of Ali’s wife Fatima, -who had heard so much about Christians that she was very anxious to -see one: as soon as her curiosity should be satisfied, they had no doubt, -they said, that Ali would give me a handsome present, and send a person -to conduct me to Bambarra. Finding entreaty and resistance equally -fruitless, I prepared to follow the messengers, and took leave of my -landlord and his company with great reluctance. Accompanied by -my faithful boy (for Daman’s slave made his escape on seeing the -Moors), we reached Dalli in the evening, where we were strictly watched -by the Moors during the night.<br> -<br> -<i>March </i>8. - We were conducted by a circuitous path through the -woods to Dangali, where we slept.<br> -<br> -<i>March </i>9. - We continued our journey, and in the afternoon arrived -at Sampaka.<br> -<br> -Next morning (March 10th) we set out for Samaming-koos. On the -road we overtook a woman and two boys with an ass; she informed us that -she was going for Bambarra, but had been stopped on the road by a party -of Moors, who had taken most of her clothes and some gold from her; -and that she would be under the necessity of returning to Deena till -the fast moon was over. The same even the new moon was seen which -ushered in the month Ramadan. Large fires were made in different -parts of the town, and a greater quantity of victuals than usual dressed -upon the occasion.<br> -<br> -<i>March </i>11. - By daylight the Moors were in readiness; but as I -had suffered much from thirst on the road I made my boy fill a soofroo -of water for my own use, for the Moors assured me that they should not -taste either meat or drink until sunset. However, I found that -the excessive heat of the sun, and the dust we raised in travelling, -overcame their scruples, and made my soofroo a very useful part of our -baggage. On our arrival at Deena, I went to pay my respects to -one of Ali’s sons. I found him sitting in a low hut, with -five or six more of his companions, washing their hands and feet, and -frequently taking water into their mouths, gargling and spitting it -out again. I was no sooner seated than he handed me a double-barrelled -gun, and told me to dye the stock of a blue colour, and repair one of -the locks. I found great difficulty in persuading him that I knew -nothing about the matter. “However,” says he, “if -you cannot repair the gun, you shall give me some knives and scissors -immediately;” and when my boy, who acted as interpreter, assured -him that I had no such articles, he hastily snatched up a musket that -stood by him, cocked it, and putting the muzzle close to the boy’s -ear, would certainly have shot him dead upon the spot had not the Moors -wrested the musket from him, and made signs for us to retreat.<br> -<br> -<i>March </i>12. - We departed from Deena towards Benowm, and about -nine o’clock came to a korree, whence the Moors were preparing -to depart to the southward, on account of the scarcity of water; here -we filled our soofroo, and continued our journey over a hot sandy country, -covered with small stunted shrubs, until about one o’clock, when -the heat of the sun obliged us to stop. But our water being expended, -we could not prudently remain longer than a few minutes to collect a -little gum, which is an excellent succedaneum for water, as it keeps -the mouth moist, and allays for a time the pain in the throat.<br> -<br> -About five o’clock we came in sight of Benowm, the residence of -Ali. It presented to the eye a great number of dirty-looking tents, -scattered without order over a large space of ground; and among the -tents appeared large herds of camels, cattle, and goats. We reached -the skirts of this camp a little before sunset, and, with much entreaty, -procured a little water. My arrival was no sooner observed than -the people who drew water at the wells threw down their buckets; those -in the tents mounted their horses, and men, women, and children, came -running or galloping towards me. I soon found myself surrounded -by such a crowd that I could scarcely move; one pulled my clothes, another -took off my hat, a third stopped me to examine my waistcoat-buttons, -and a fourth called out, “<i>La illah el Allah, Mahamet rasowl -allahi</i>” - (“There is but one God, and Mohammed is his -Prophet”) - and signified, in a threatening manner, that I must -repeat those words. We reached at length the king’s tent, -where we found a great number of people, men and women, assembled. -Ali was sitting upon a black leather cushion, clipping a few hairs from -his upper lip, a female attendant holding up a looking-glass before -him. He appeared to be an old man of the Arab cast, with a long -white beard; and he had a sullen and indignant aspect. He surveyed -me with attention, and inquired of the Moors if I could speak Arabic. -Being answered in the negative, he appeared much surprised, and continued -silent. The surrounding attendants, and especially the ladies, -were abundantly more inquisitive: they asked a thousand questions, inspected -every part of my apparel, searched my pockets, and obliged me to unbutton -my waistcoat, and display the whiteness of my skin; they even counted -my toes and fingers, as if they doubted whether I was in truth a human -being. In a little time the priest announced evening prayers; -but before the people departed, the Moor who had acted as interpreter -informed me that Ali was about to present me with something to eat; -and looking round, I observed some boys bringing a wild hog, which they -tied to one of the tent strings, and Ali made signs to me to kill and -dress it for supper. Though I was very hungry, I did not think -it prudent to eat any part of an animal so much detested by the Moors, -and therefore told him that I never ate such food. They then untied -the hog, in hopes that it would run immediately at me - for they believe -that a great enmity subsists between hogs and Christians - but in this -they were disappointed, for the animal no sooner regained his liberty -than he began to attack indiscriminately every person that came in his -way, and at last took shelter under the couch upon which the king was -sitting. The assembly being thus dissolved, I was conducted to -the tent of Ali’s chief slave, but was not permitted to enter, -nor allowed to touch anything belonging to it. I requested something -to eat, and a little boiled corn, with salt and water, was at length -sent me in a wooden bowl; and a mat was spread upon the sand before -the tent, on which I passed the night, surrounded by the curious multitude.<br> -<br> -At sunrise, Ali, with a few attendants, came on horseback to visit me, -and signified that he had provided a hut for me, where I would be sheltered -from the sun. I was accordingly conducted thither, and found the -hut comparatively cool and pleasant.<br> -<br> -I was no sooner seated in this my new habitation than the Moors assembled -in crowds to behold me; but I found it rather a troublesome levée, -for I was obliged to take off one of my stockings, and show them my -foot, and even to take off my jacket and waistcoat, to show them how -my clothes were put on and off; they were much delighted with the curious -contrivance of buttons. All this was to be repeated to every succeeding -visitor; for such as had already seen these wonders insisted on their -friends seeing the same; and in this manner I was employed, dressing -and undressing, buttoning and unbuttoning, from noon till night. -About eight o’clock, Ali sent me for supper some kouskous and -salt and water, which was very acceptable, being the only victuals I -had tasted since morning.<br> -<br> -I observed that in the night the Moors kept regular watch, and frequently -looked into the hut to see if I was asleep; and if it was quite dark, -they would light a wisp of grass. About two o’clock in the -morning a Moor entered the hut, probably with a view to steal something, -or perhaps to murder me; and groping about he laid his hand upon my -shoulder. As night visitors were at best but suspicious characters, -I sprang up the moment he laid his hand upon me; and the Moor, in his -haste to get off, stumbled over my boy, and fell with his face upon -the wild hog, which returned the attack by biting the Moor’s arm. -The screams of this man alarmed the people in the king’s tent, -who immediately conjectured that I had made my escape, and a number -of them mounted their horses, and prepared to pursue me. I observed -upon this occasion that Ali did not sleep in his own tent, but came -galloping upon a white horse from a small tent at a considerable distance; -indeed, the tyrannical and cruel behaviour of this man made him so jealous -of every person around him that even his own slaves and domestics knew -not where he slept. When the Moors had explained to him the cause -of this outcry they all went away, and I was permitted to sleep quietly -until morning.<br> -<br> -<i>March </i>13. - With the returning day commenced the same round of -insult and irritation - the boys assembled to beat the hog, and the -men and women to plague the Christian. It is impossible for me -to describe the behaviour of a people who study mischief as a science, -and exult in the miseries and misfortunes of their fellow-creatures.<br> -<br> -<br> -<br> -CHAPTER X - A MOORISH WEDDING<br> -<br> -<br> -<br> -The Moors, though very indolent themselves, are rigid task-masters, -and keep every person under them in full employment. My boy Demba -was sent to the woods to collect withered grass for Ali’s horses; -and after a variety of projects concerning myself, they at last found -out an employment for me: this was no other than the respectable office -of <i>barber</i>. I was to make my first exhibition in this capacity -in the royal presence, and to be honoured with the task of shaving the -head of the young prince of Ludamar. I accordingly seated myself -upon the sand, and the boy, with some hesitation, sat down beside me. -A small razor, about three inclines long, was put into my hand, and -I was ordered to proceed; but whether from my own want of skill, or -the improper shape of the instrument, I unfortunately made a slight -incision in the boy’s head at the very commencement of the operation; -and the king, observing the awkward manner in which I held the razor, -concluded that his son’s head was in very improper hands, and -ordered me to resign the razor and walk out of the tent. This -I considered as a very fortunate circumstance; for I had laid it down -as a rule to make myself as useless and insignificant as possible, as -the only means of recovering my liberty.<br> -<br> -<i>March </i>18. - Four Moors arrived from Jarra with Johnson my interpreter, -having seized him before he had received any intimation of my confinement, -and bringing with them a bundle of clothes that I had left at Daman -Jumma’s house, for my use in case I should return by the way of -Jarra. Johnson was led into Ali’s tent and examined; the -bundle was opened, and I was sent for to explain the use of the different -articles. I was happy, however, to find that Johnson had committed -my papers to the charge of one of Daman’s wives. When I -had satisfied Ali’s curiosity respecting the different articles -of apparel the bundle was again tied up, and put into a large cow-skin -bag that stood in a corner of the tent. The same evening Ali sent -three of his people to inform me that there were many thieves in the -neighbourhood, and that to prevent the rest of my things from being -stolen it was necessary to convey them all into his tent. My clothes, -instruments, and everything that belonged to me, were accordingly carried -away; and though the heat and dust made clean linen very necessary and -refreshing, I could not procure a single shirt out of the small stock -I had brought along with me. Ali was, however, disappointed by -not finding among my effects the quantity of gold and amber that he -expected; but to make sure of everything he sent the same people, on -the morning following, to examine whether I had anything concealed about -my person. They, with their usual rudeness, searched every part -of my apparel, and stripped me of all my gold, amber, my watch, and -one of my pocket-compasses; I had, fortunately, in the night, buried -the other compass in the sand - and this, with the clothes I had on, -was all that the tyranny of Ali had now left me.<br> -<br> -The gold and amber were highly gratifying to Moorish avarice, but the -pocket-compass soon became an object of superstitious curiosity. -Ali was very desirous to be informed why that small piece of iron, the -needle, always pointed to the Great Desert; and I found myself somewhat -puzzled to answer the question. To have pleaded my ignorance would -have created a suspicion that I wished to conceal the real truth from -him; I therefore told him that my mother resided far beyond the sands -of Sahara, and that whilst she was alive the piece of iron would always -point that way, and serve as a guide to conduct me to her, and that -if she was dead it would point to her grave. Ali now looked at -the compass with redoubled amazement; turned it round and round repeatedly; -but observing that it always pointed the same way, he took it up with -great caution and returned it to me, manifesting that he thought there -was something of magic in it, and that he was afraid of keeping so dangerous -an instrument in his possession.<br> -<br> -<i>March </i>20. - This morning a council of chief men was held in Ali’s -tent respecting me. Their decisions, though they were all unfavourable -to me, were differently related by different persons. Some said -that they intended to put me to death; others that I was only to lose -my right hand; but the most probable account was that which I received -from Ali’s own son, a boy about nine years of age, who came to -me in the evening, and, with much concern, informed me that his uncle -had persuaded his father to put out my eyes, which they said resembled -those of a cat, and that all the bushreens had approved of this measure. -His father, however, he said, would not put the sentence into execution -until Fatima, the queen, who was at present in the north, had seen me.<br> -<br> -<i>March </i>21. - Anxious to know my destiny, I went to the king early -in the morning; and as a number of bushreens were assembled, I thought -this a favourable opportunity of discovering their intentions. -I therefore began by begging his permission to return to Jarra, which -was flatly refused. His wife, he said, had not yet seen me, and -I must stay until she came to Benowm, after which I should be at liberty -to depart; and that my horse, which had been taken away from me the -day after I arrived, should be again restored to me. Unsatisfactory -as this answer was, I was forced to appear pleased; and as there was -little hope of making my escape at this season of the year, on account -of the excessive heat, and the total want of water in the woods, I resolved -to wait patiently until the rains had set in, or until some more favourable -opportunity should present itself. But “hope deferred maketh -the heart sick.” This tedious procrastination from day to -day, and the thoughts of travelling through the negro kingdoms in the -rainy season, which was now fast approaching, made me very melancholy; -and having passed a restless night, I found myself attacked in the morning -by a smart fever. I had wrapped myself close up in my cloak with -a view to induce perspiration, and was asleep, when a party of Moors -entered the hut, and with their usual rudeness pulled the cloak from -me. I made signs to them that I was sick, and wished much to sleep, -but I solicited in vain; my distress was matter of sport to them, and -they endeavoured to heighten it by every means in their power. -In this perplexity I left my hut, and walked to some shady trees at -a little distance from the camp, where I lay down. But even here -persecution followed me, and solitude was thought too great an indulgence -for a distressed Christian. Ali’s son, with a number of -horsemen, came galloping to the place, and ordered me to rise and follow -them. I begged they would allow me to remain where I was, if it -was only for a few hours; but they paid little attention to what I said, -and, after a few threatening words, one of them pulled out a pistol -from a leather bag that was fastened to the pommel of his saddle, and -presenting it towards me, snapped it twice. He did this with so -much indifference, that I really doubted whether the pistol was loaded. -He cocked it a third time, and was striking the flint with a piece of -steel, when I begged them to desist, and returned with them to the camp. -When we entered Ali’s tent we found him much out of humour. -He called for the Moor’s pistol, and amused himself for some time -with opening and shutting the pan; at length taking up his powder-horn, -he fresh primed it, and, turning round to me with a menacing look, said -something in Arabic which I did not understand. I desired my boy, -who was sitting before the tent, to inquire what offence I had committed; -when I was informed, that having gone out of the camp without Ali’s -permission, they suspected that I had some design of making my escape; -and that, in future, if I was seen without the skirts of the camp, orders -had been given that I should be shot by the first person that observed -me.<br> -<br> -In the afternoon the horizon to the eastward was thick and hazy, and -the Moors prognosticated a sand wind, which accordingly commenced on -the morning following, and lasted, with slight intermissions, for two -days. The force of the wind was not in itself very great; it was -what a seaman would have denominated a <i>stiff</i> <i>breeze; </i>but -the quantity of sand and dust carried before it was such as to darken -the whole atmosphere.<br> -<br> -About this time all the women of the camp had their feet and the ends -of their fingers stained of a dark saffron colour. I could never -ascertain whether this was done from motives of religion, or by way -of ornament.<br> -<br> -<i>March </i>28. - This morning a large herd of cattle arrived from -the eastward, and one of the drivers, to whom Ali had lent my horse, -came into my hut with the leg of an antelope as a present, and told -me that my horse was standing before Ali’s tent. In a little -time Ali sent one of his slaves to inform me that in the afternoon I -must be in readiness to ride out with him, as he intended to show me -to some of his women.<br> -<br> -About four o’clock, Ali, with six of his courtiers, came riding -to my hut, and told me to follow them. I readily complied. -But here a new difficulty occurred. The Moors, accustomed to a -loose and easy dress, could not reconcile themselves to the appearance -of my <i>nankeen breeches</i>, which they said were not only inelegant, -but, on account of their tightness, very indecent; and as this was a -visit to ladies, Ali ordered my boy to bring out the loose cloak which -I had always worn since my arrival at Benowm, and told me to wrap it -close round me. We visited the tents of four different ladies, -at every one of which I was presented with a bowl of milk and water. -All these ladies were remarkably corpulent, which is considered here -as the highest mark of beauty. They were very inquisitive, and -examined my hair and skin with great attention, but affected to consider -me as a sort of inferior being to themselves, and would knit their brows, -and seem to shudder when they looked at the whiteness of my skin.<br> -<br> -The Moors are certainly very good horsemen. They ride without -fear - their saddles being high before and behind, afford them a very -secure seat; and if they chance to fall, the whole country is so soft -and sandy that they are very seldom hurt. Their greatest pride, -and one of their principal amusements, is to put the horse to its full -speed, and then stop him with a sudden jerk, so as frequently to bring -him down upon his haunches. Ali always rode upon a milk-white -horse, with its tail dyed red. He never walked, unless when he -went to say his prayers; and even in the night two or three horses were -always kept ready saddled at a little distance from his own tent. -The Moors set a very high value upon their horses; for it is by their -superior fleetness that they are enabled to make so many predatory excursions -into the negro countries. They feed them three or four times a -day, and generally give them a large quantity of sweet milk in the evening, -which the horses appear to relish very much.<br> -<br> -<i>April </i>3. - This forenoon, a child, which had been some time sickly, -died in the next tent; and the mother and relations immediately began -the death-howl. They were joined by a number of female visitors, -who came on purpose to assist at this melancholy concert. I had -no opportunity of seeing the burial, which is generally performed secretly, -in the dusk of the evening, and frequently at only a few yards’ -distance from the tent. Over the grave they plant one particular -shrub, and no stranger is allowed to pluck a leaf, or even to touch -it - so great a veneration have they for the dead.<br> -<br> -<i>April </i>7. - About four o’clock in the afternoon a whirlwind -passed through the camp with such violence that it overturned three -tents, and blew down one side of my hut. These whirlwinds come -from the Great Desert, and at this season of the year are so common -that I have seen five or six of them at one time. They carry up -quantities of sand to an amazing height, which resemble, at a distance, -so many moving pillars of smoke.<br> -<br> -The scorching heat of the sun, upon a dry and sandy country, makes the -air insufferably hot. Ali having robbed me of my thermometer, -I had no means of forming a comparative judgment; but in the middle -of the day, when the beams of the vertical sun are seconded by the scorching -wind from the desert, the ground is frequently heated to such a degree -as not to be borne by the naked foot. Even the negro slaves will -not run from one tent to another without their sandals. At this -time of the day the Moors lie stretched at length in their tents, either -asleep, or unwilling to move; and I have often felt the wind so hot, -that I could not hold my hand in the current of air which came through -the crevices of my hut without feeling sensible pain.<br> -<br> -<i>April. </i>8. - This day the wind blew from the south-west; and in -the night there was a heavy shower of rain, accompanied with thunder -and lightning.<br> -<br> -<i>April </i>10. - In the evening the <i>tabala</i>, or large drum, -was beat to announce a wedding, which was held at one of the neighbouring -tents. A great number of people of both sexes assembled, but without -that mirth and hilarity which take place at a negro wedding. Here -was neither singing nor dancing, nor any other amusement that I could -perceive. A woman was beating the drum, and the other women joining -at times like a chorus, by setting up a shrill scream, and at the same -time moving their tongues from one side of the mouth to the other with -great celerity. I was soon tired, and had returned into my hut, -where I was sitting almost asleep, when an old woman entered with a -wooden bowl in her hand, and signified that she had brought me a present -from the bride. Before I could recover from the surprise which -this message created, the woman discharged tine contents of the bowl -full in my face. Finding that it was the same sort of holy water -with which, among the Hottentots, a priest is said to sprinkle a newly-married -couple, I began to suspect that the old lady was actuated by mischief -or malice; but she gave me seriously to understand that it was a nuptial -benediction from the bride’s own person, and which, on such occasions, -is always received by the young unmarried Moors as a mark of distinguished -favour. This being the case, I wiped my face, and sent my acknowledgments -to the lady. The wedding drum continued to beat, and the women -to sing, or rather whistle, all night. About nine in the morning -the bride was brought in state from her mother’s tent, attended -by a number of women who carried her tent (a present from the husband), -some bearing up the poles, others holding by the strings; and in this -manner they marched, whistling as formerly, until they came to the place -appointed for her residence, where they pitched the tent. The -husband followed, with a number of men, leading four bullocks, which -they tied to the tent strings; and having killed another, and distributed -the beef among the people, the ceremony was concluded.<br> -<br> -<br> -<br> -CHAPTER XI - SUFFERINGS IN CAPTIVITY<br> -<br> -<br> -<br> -One whole month had now elapsed since I was led into captivity, during -which time each returning day brought me fresh distresses. I watched -the lingering course of the sun with anxiety, and blessed his evening -beams as they shined a yellow lustre along the sandy floor of my hut; -for it was then that my oppressors left me, and allowed me to pass the -sultry night in solitude and reflection.<br> -<br> -About midnight a bowl of kouskous, with some salt and water, were brought -for me and my two attendants. This was our common fare, and it -was all that was allowed us to allay the cravings of hunger and support -nature for the whole of the following day; for it is to be observed -that this was the Mohammedan Lent, and as the Moors keep the fast with -a religious strictness, they thought it proper to compel me, though -a Christian, to similar observance. Time, however, somewhat reconciled -me to my situation. I found that I could bear hunger and thirst -better than I expected; and at length I endeavoured to beguile the tedious -hours by learning to write Arabic.<br> -<br> -<i>April </i>14. - As Queen Fatima had not yet arrived, Ali proposed -to go to the north and bring her back with him; but as the place was -two days’ journey from Benowm it was necessary to have some refreshment -on the road; and Ali, suspicious of those about him, was so afraid of -being poisoned, that he never ate anything but what was dressed under -his own immediate inspection. A fine bullock was therefore killed, -and the flesh being cut up into thin slices, was dried in the sun; and -this, with two bags of dry kouskous, formed his travelling provisions.<br> -<br> -Previous to his departure, the black people of the town of Benowm came, -according to their annual custom, to show their arms, and bring their -stipulated tribute of corn and cloth. They were but badly armed -- twenty-two with muskets, forty or fifty with bows and arrows, and -nearly the same number of men and boys with spears only. They -arranged themselves before the tent, where they waited until their arms -were examined, and some little disputes settled.<br> -<br> -About midnight on the 16th, Ali departed quietly from Benowm, accompanied -by a few attendants. He was expected to return in the course of -nine or ten days.<br> -<br> -<i>April </i>18. - Two days after the departure of Ali a shereef arrived -with salt and some other articles from Walet, the capital of the kingdom -of Biroo. As there was no tent appropriated for him, he took up -his abode in the same hut with me. He seemed to be a well-informed -man, and his acquaintance both with the Arabic and Bambarra tongues -enabled him to travel with ease and safety through a number of kingdoms; -for though his place of residence was Walet, he had visited Houssa, -and had lived some years at Timbuctoo. Upon my inquiring so particularly -about the distance from Walet to Timbuctoo, he asked me if I intended -to travel that way; and being answered in the affirmative, he shook -his head, and said it would not do; for that Christians were looked -upon there as the devil’s children, and enemies to the Prophet. -From him I learned the following particulars:- That Houssa was the largest -town he had ever seen: that Walet was larger than Timbuctoo, but being -remote from the Niger, and its trade consisting chiefly of salt, it -was not so much resorted to by strangers: that between Benowm and Walet -was ten days’ journey; but the road did not lead through any remarkable -towns, and travellers supported themselves by purchasing milk from the -Arabs, who keep their herds by the watering-places: two of the days’ -journeys was over a sandy country, without water. From Walet to -Timbuctoo was eleven days more; but water was more plentiful, and the -journey was usually performed upon bullocks. He said there were -many Jews at Timbuctoo, but they all spoke Arabic, and used the same -prayers as the Moors. He frequently pointed his hand to the south-east -quarter, or rather the east by south, observing that Timbuctoo was situated -in that direction; and though I made him repeat this information again -and again, I never found him to vary more than half a point, which was -to the southward.<br> -<br> -<i>April </i>24. - This morning Shereef Sidi Mahomed Moora Abdalla, -a native of Morocco, arrived with five bullocks loaded with salt. -He had formerly resided some months at Gibraltar, where he had picked -up as much English as enabled him to make himself understood. -He informed me that he had been five months in coming from Santa Cruz; -but that great part of the time had been spent in trading. When -I requested him to enumerate the days employed in travelling from Morocco -to Benowm, he gave them as follows: To Swera, three days; to Agadier, -three; to Jinikin, ten; to Wadenoon, four; to Lakeneig, five; to Zeeriwin-zerimani, -five; to Tisheet, ten; to Benowm, ten - in all, fifty days: but travellers -usually rest a long while at Jinikin and Tisheet - at the latter of -which places they dig the rock salt, which is so great an article of -commerce with the negroes.<br> -<br> -In conversing with these shereefs, and the different strangers that -resorted to the camp, I passed my time with rather less uneasiness than -formerly. On the other hand, as the dressing of my victuals was -now left entirely to the care of Ali’s slaves, over whom I had -not the smallest control, I found myself but ill supplied, worse even -than in the fast month:<i> </i>for two successive nights they neglected -to send us our accustomed meal; and though my boy went to a small negro -town near the camp, and begged with great diligence from hut to hut, -he could only procure a few handfuls of ground nuts, which he readily -shared with me.<br> -<br> -We had been for some days in daily expectation of Ali’s return -from Saheel (or the north country) with his wife Fatima. In the -meanwhile, Mansong, king of Bambarra, as I have related in Chapter VIII., -had sent to Ali for a party of horse to assist in storming Gedingooma. -With this demand Ali had not only refused to comply, but had treated -the messengers with great haughtiness and contempt; upon which Mansong -gave up all thoughts of taking the town, and prepared to chastise Ali -for his contumacy.<br> -<br> -Things were in this situation when, on the 29th of April, a messenger -arrived at Benowm with the disagreeable intelligence that the Bambarra -army was approaching the frontiers of Ludamar. This threw the -whole country into confusion, and in the afternoon Ali’s son, -with about twenty horsemen, arrived at Benowm. He ordered all -the cattle to be driven away immediately, all the tents to be struck, -and the people to hold themselves in readiness to depart at daylight -the next morning.<br> -<br> -<i>April </i>30. - At daybreak the whole camp was in motion. The -baggage was carried upon bullocks - the two tent poles being placed -one on each side, and the different wooden articles of the tent distributed -in like manner; the tent cloth was thrown over all, and upon this was -commonly placed one or two women; for the Moorish women are very bad -walkers. The king’s favourite concubines rode upon camels, -with a saddle of a particular construction, and a canopy to shelter -them from the sun. We proceeded to the northward until noon, when -the king’s son ordered the whole company, except the tents, to -enter a thick low wood which was upon our right. I was sent along -with the two tents, and arrived in the evening at a negro town called -Farani: here we pitched the tents in an open place at no great distance -from the town.<br> -<br> -<i>May </i>1. - As I had some reason to suspect that this day was also -to be considered as a fast, I went in the morning to the negro town -of Farani, and begged some provisions from the dooty, who readily supplied -my wants, and desired me to come to his house every day during my stay -in the neighbourhood. - These hospitable people are looked upon by the -Moors as an abject race of slaves, and are treated accordingly.<br> -<br> -<i>May </i>3. - We departed from the vicinity of Farani, and after a -circuitous route through the woods, arrived at Ali’s camp in the -afternoon. This encampment was larger than that of Benowm, and -was situated un the middle of a thick wood, about two miles distant -from a negro town called Bubaker. I immediately waited upon Ali, -in order to pay my respects to Queen Fatima, who had come with him from -Saheel. He seemed much pleased with my coming, shook hands with -me, and informed his wife that I was the Christian. She was a -woman of the Arab caste, with long black hair, and remarkably corpulent. -She appeared at first rather shocked at the thought of having a Christian -so near her; but when I had, by means of a negro boy who spoke the Mandingo -and Arabic tongues, answered a great many questions which her curiosity -suggested respecting the country of the Christians, she seemed more -at ease, and presented me with a bowl of milk, which I considered as -a very favourable omen.<br> -<br> -The heat was now almost insufferable - all nature seemed sinking under -it. The distant country presented to the eye a dreary expanse -of sand, with a few stunted trees and prickly bushes, in the shade of -which the hungry cattle licked up the withered grass, while the camels -and goats picked off the scanty foliage. The scarcity of water -was greater here than at Benowm. Day and night the wells were -crowded with cattle, lowing and fighting with each other to come at -the troughs. Excessive thirst made many of them furious; others, -being too weak to contend for the water, endeavoured to quench their -thirst by devouring the black mud from the gutters near the wells, which -they did with great avidity, though it was commonly fatal to them.<br> -<br> -One night, having solicited in vain for water at the camp, and been -quite feverish, I resolved to try my fortune at the wells, which were -about half a mile distant from the camp. Accordingly I set out -about midnight, and being guided by the lowing of the cattle, soon arrived -at the place, where I found the Moors very busy drawing water. -I requested permission to drink, but was driven away with outrageous -abuse. Passing, however, from one well to another, I came at last -to one where there was only an old man and two boys. I made the -same request to this man, and he immediately drew me up a bucket of -water; but, as I was about to take hold of it, he recollected that I -was a Christian, and fearing that his bucket might be polluted by my -lips, he dashed the water into the trough, and told me to drink from -thence. Though this trough was none of the largest, and three -cows were already drinking from it, I resolved to come in for my share; -and kneeling down thrust my head between two of the cows, and drank -with great pleasure until the water was nearly exhausted, and the cows -began to contend with each other for the last mouthful.<br> -<br> -In adventures of this nature I passed the sultry month of May, during -which no material change took place in my situation. Ali still -considered me as a lawful prisoner; and Fatima, though she allowed me -a larger quantity of victuals than I had been accustomed to receive -at Benowm, had as yet said nothing on the subject of my release. -In the meantime, the frequent changes of the wind, the gathering clouds, -and distant lightning, with other appearances of approaching rain, indicated -that the wet season was at hand, when the Moors annually evacuate the -country of the negroes, and return to the skirts of the Great Desert. -This made me consider that my fate was drawing towards a crisis, and -I resolved to wait for the event without any seeming uneasiness; but -circumstances occurred which produced a change in my favour more suddenly -than I had foreseen, or had reason to expect. The case was this:- -The fugitive Kaartans, who had taken refuge in Ludamar, as I have related -in Chapter VIII., finding that the Moors were about to leave them, and -dreading the resentment of their own sovereign, whom they had so basely -deserted, offered to treat with Ali for two hundred Moorish horsemen, -to co-operate with them in an effort to expel Daisy from Gedingooma; -for until Daisy should be vanquished or humbled they considered that -they could neither return to their native towns nor live in security -in any of the neighbouring kingdoms. With a view to extort money -from these people by means of this treaty, Ali despatched his son to -Jarra, and prepared to follow him in the course of a few days. -This was an opportunity of too great consequence to me to be neglected. -I immediately applied to Fatima, who, I found, had the chief direction -in all affairs of state, and begged her interest with Ali to give me -permission to accompany him to Jarra. This request, after some -hesitation, was favourably received. Fatima looked kindly on me, -and, I believe, was at length moved with compassion towards me. -My bundles were brought from the large cow-skin bag that stood in the -corner of Ali’s tent, and I was ordered to explain the use of -the different articles, and show the method of putting on the boots, -stockings, &c. - with all which I cheerfully complied, and was told -that in the course of a few days I should be at liberty to depart.<br> -<br> -Believing, therefore, that I should certainly find the means of escaping -from Jarra, if I should once get thither, I now freely indulged the -pleasing hope that my captivity would soon terminate; and happily not -having been disappointed in this idea, I shall pause in this place to -collect and bring into one point of view such observations on the Moorish -character and country as I had no fair opportunity of introducing into -the preceding narrative.<br> -<br> -<br> -<br> -CHAPTER XII - OBSERVATIONS ON THE CHARACTER AND COUNTRY OF THE MOORS<br> -<br> -<br> -<br> -The Moors of this part of Africa are divided into many separate tribes, -of which the most formidable, according to what was reported to me, -are those of Trasart and Il Braken, which inhabit the northern bank -of the Senegal river. The tribes of Gedumah, Jaffnoo, and Ludamar, -though not so numerous as the former, are nevertheless very powerful -and warlike, and are each governed by a chief, or king, who exercises -absolute jurisdiction over his own horde, without acknowledging allegiance -to a common sovereign. In time of peace the employment of the -people is pasturage. The Moors, indeed, subsist chiefly on the -flesh of their cattle, and are always in the extreme of either gluttony -or abstinence. In consequence of the frequent and severe fasts -which their religion enjoins, and the toilsome journeys which they sometimes -undertake across the desert, they are enabled to bear both hunger and -thirst with surprising fortitude; but whenever opportunities occur of -satisfying their appetite they generally devour more at one meal than -would serve a European for three. They pay but little attention -to agriculture, purchasing their corn, cotton, cloth, and other necessaries -from the negroes, in exchange for salt, which they dig from the pits -in the Great Desert.<br> -<br> -The natural barrenness of the country is such that it furnishes but -few materials for manufacture. The Moors, however, contrive to -weave a strong cloth, with which they cover their tents; the thread -is spun by their women from the hair of goats, and they prepare the -hides of their cattle so as to furnish saddles, bridles, pouches, and -other articles of leather. They are likewise sufficiently skilful -to convert the native iron, which they procure from the negroes, into -spears and knives, and also into pots for boiling their food; but their -sabres, and other weapons, as well as their firearms and ammunition, -they purchase from the Europeans, in exchange for the negro slaves which -they obtain in their predatory excursions. Their chief commerce -of this kind is with the French traders on the Senegal river.<br> -<br> -The Moors are rigid Mohammedans, and possess, with the bigotry and superstition, -all the intolerance of their sect. They have no mosques at Benowm, -but perform their devotions in a sort of open shed, or enclosure, made -of mats. The priest is, at the same time, schoolmaster to the -juniors. His pupils assemble every evening before his tent; where, -by the light of a large fire, made of brushwood and cow’s dung, -they are taught a few sentences from the Koran, and are initiated into -the principles of their creed. Their alphabet differs but little -from that in Richardson’s Arabic Grammar. They always write -with the vowel points. Their priests even affect to know something -of foreign literature. The priest of Benowm assured me that he -could read the writings of the Christians: he showed me a number of -barbarous characters, which he asserted were the Roman alphabet; and -he produced another specimen, equally unintelligible, which he declared -to be the <i>Kallam il Indi</i>, or Persian. His library consisted -of nine volumes in quarto; most of them, I believe, were books of religion -- for the name of Mohammed appeared in red letters in almost every page -of each. His scholars wrote their lessons upon thin boards, paper -being too expensive for general use. The boys were diligent enough, -and appeared to possess a considerable share of emulation - carrying -their boards slung over their shoulders when about their common employments. -When a boy has committed to memory a few of their prayers, and can read -and write certain parts of the Koran, he is reckoned sufficiently instructed; -and with this slender stock of learning commences his career of life. -Proud of his acquirements, he surveys with contempt the unlettered negro; -and embraces every opportunity of displaying his superiority over such -of his countrymen as are not distinguished by the same accomplishments.<br> -<br> -The education of the girls is neglected altogether: mental accomplishments -are but little attended to by the women; nor is the want of them considered -by the men as a defect in the female character. They are regarded, -I believe, as an inferior species of animals; and seem to be brought -up for no other purpose than that of administering to the sensual pleasures -of their imperious masters. Voluptuousness is therefore considered -as their chief accomplishment, and slavish submission as their indispensable -duty.<br> -<br> -The Moors have singular ideas of feminine perfection. The gracefulness -of figure and motion, and a countenance enlivened by expression, are -by no means essential points in their standard. With them corpulence -and beauty appear to be terms nearly synonymous. A woman of even -moderate pretensions must be one who cannot walk without a slave under -each arm to support her; and a perfect beauty is a load for a camel. -In consequence of this prevalent taste for unwieldiness of bulk, the -Moorish ladies take great pains to acquire it early in life; and for -this purpose many of the young girls are compelled by their mothers -to devour a great quantity of kouskous, and drink a large bowl of camel’s -milk every morning. It is of no importance whether the girl has -an appetite or not; the kouskous and milk must be swallowed, and obedience -is frequently enforced by blows. I have seen a poor girl sit crying, -with the bowl at her lips, for more than an hour, and her mother, with -a stick in her hand, watching her all the while, and using the stick -without mercy whenever she observed that her daughter was not swallowing. -This singular practice, instead of producing indigestion and disease, -soon covers the young lady with that degree of plumpness which, in the -eye of a Moor, is perfection itself.<br> -<br> -As the Moors purchase all their clothing from the negroes, the women -are forced to be very economical in the article of dress. In general -they content themselves with a broad piece of cotton cloth, which is -wrapped round the middle, and hangs down like a petticoat almost to -the ground. To the upper part of this are sewed two square pieces, -one before, and the other behind, which are fastened together over the -shoulders. The head-dress is commonly a bandage of cotton cloth, -with some parts of it broader than others, which serve to conceal the -face when they walk in the sun. Frequently, however, when they -go abroad, they veil themselves from head to foot.<br> -<br> -The employment of the women varies according to their degrees of opulence. -Queen Fatima, and a few others of high rank, like the great ladies in -some parts of Europe, pass their time chiefly in conversing with their -visitors, performing their devotions, or admiring their charms in a -looking-glass. The women of inferior class employ themselves in -different domestic duties. They are very vain and talkative; and -when anything puts them out of humour they commonly vent their anger -upon their female slaves, over whom they rule with severe and despotic -authority, which leads me to observe that the condition of these poor -captives is deplorably wretched. At daybreak they are compelled -to fetch water from the wells in large skins, called <i>girbas; </i>and -as soon as they have brought water enough to serve the family for the -day, as well as the horses (for the Moors seldom give their horses the -trouble of going to the wells), they are then employed in pounding the -corn and dressing the victuals. This being always done in the -open air, the slaves are exposed to the combined heat of the sun, the -sand, and the fire. In the intervals it is their business to sweep -the tent, churn the milk, and perform other domestic offices. -With all this they are badly fed, and oftentimes cruelly punished.<br> -<br> -The men’s dress, among the Moors of Ludamar, differs but little -from that of the negroes, which has been already described, except that -they have all adopted that characteristic of the Mohammedan sect, the -turban, which is here universally made of white cotton cloth. -Such of the Moors as have long beards display them with a mixture of -pride and satisfaction, as denoting an Arab ancestry. Of this -number was Ali himself; but among the generality of the people the hair -is short and busy, and universally black. And here I may be permitted -to observe, that if any one circumstance excited among them favourable -thoughts towards my own person, it was my beard, which was now grown -to an enormous length, and was always beheld with approbation or envy. -I believe, in my conscience, they thought it too good a beard for a -Christian.<br> -<br> -The only diseases which I observed to prevail among the Moors were the -intermittent fever and dysentery - for the cure of which nostrums are -sometimes administered by their old women, but in general nature is -left to her own operations. Mention was made to me of the small-pox -as being sometimes very destructive; but it had not, to my knowledge, -made its appearance in Ludamar while I was in captivity. That -it prevails, however, among some tribes of the Moors, and that it is -frequently conveyed by them to the negroes in the southern states, I -was assured on the authority of Dr. Laidley, who also informed me that -the negroes on the Gambia practise inoculation.<br> -<br> -The administration of criminal justice, as far as I had opportunities -of observing, was prompt and decisive: for although civil rights were -but little regarded in Ludamar, it was necessary when crimes were committed -that examples should sometimes be made. On such occasions the -offender was brought before Ali, who pronounced, of his sole authority, -what judgment he thought proper. But I understood that capital -punishment was seldom or never inflicted, except on the negroes.<br> -<br> -Although the wealth of the Moors consists chiefly in their numerous -herds of cattle, yet, as the pastoral life does not afford full employment, -the majority of the people are perfectly idle, and spend the day in -trifling conversation about their horses, or in laying schemes of depredation -on the negro villages.<br> -<br> -Of the number of Ali’s Moorish subjects I had no means of forming -a correct estimate. The military strength of Ludamar consists -in cavalry. They are well mounted, and appear to be very expert -in skirmishing and attacking by surprise. Every soldier furnishes -his own horse, and finds his accoutrements, consisting of a large sabre, -a double-barrelled gun, a small red leather bag for holding his balls, -and a powder bag slung over the shoulder. He has no pay, nor any -remuneration but what arises from plunder. This body is not very -numerous; for when Ali made war upon Bambarra I was informed that his -whole force did not exceed two thousand cavalry. They constitute, -however, by what I could learn, but a very small proportion of his Moorish -subjects. The horses are very beautiful, and so highly esteemed -that the negro princes will sometimes give from twelve to fourteen slaves -for one horse.<br> -<br> -Ludamar has for its northern boundary the great desert of Sahara. -From the best inquiries I could make, this vast ocean of sand, which -occupies so large a space in northern Africa, may be pronounced almost -destitute of inhabitants, except where the scanty vegetation which appears -in certain spots affords pasturage for the flocks of a few miserable -Arabs, who wander from one well to another. In other places, where -the supply of water and pasturage is more abundant, small parties of -the Moors have taken up their residence. Here they live, in independent -poverty, secure from the tyrannical government of Barbary. But -the greater part of the desert, being totally destitute of water, is -seldom visited by any human being, unless where the trading caravans -trace out their toilsome and dangerous route across it. In some -parts of this extensive waste the ground is covered with low stunted -shrubs, which serve as landmarks for the caravans, and furnish the camels -with a scanty forage. In other parts the disconsolate wanderer, -wherever he turns, sees nothing around him but a vast interminable expanse -of sand and sky - a gloomy and barren void, where the eye finds no particular -object to rest upon, and the mind is filled with painful apprehensions -of perishing with thirst.<br> -<br> -The few wild animals which inhabit these melancholy regions are the -antelope and the ostrich; their swiftness of foot enabling them to reach -the distant watering-places. On the skirts of the desert, where -water is more plentiful, are found lions, panthers, elephants, and wild -bears.<br> -<br> -Of domestic animals, the only one that can endure the fatigue of crossing -the desert is the camel. By the particular conformation of the -stomach he is enabled to carry a supply of water sufficient for ten -or twelve days; his broad and yielding foot is well adapted for a sandy -country; and, by a singular motion of his upper lip, he picks the smallest -leaves from the thorny shrubs of the desert as he passes along. -The camel is therefore the only beast of burden employed by the trading -caravans which traverse the desert in different directions, from Barbary -to Nigritia. As this useful and docile creature has been sufficiently -described by systematical writers it is unnecessary for me to enlarge -upon his properties. I shall only add that his flesh, though to -my own taste dry and unsavoury, is preferred by the Moors to any other; -and that the milk of the female is in universal esteem, and is indeed -sweet, pleasant, and nutritive.<br> -<br> -I have observed that the Moors, in their complexion, resemble the mulattoes -of the West Indies; but they have something unpleasant in their aspect -which the mulattoes have not. I fancied that I discovered in the -features of most of them a disposition towards cruelty and low cunning; -and I could never contemplate their physiognomy without feeling sensible -uneasiness. From the staring wildness of their eyes a stranger -would immediately set them down as a nation of lunatics. The treachery -and malevolence of their character are manifest in their plundering -excursions against the negro villages. Oftentimes without the -smallest provocation, and sometimes under the fairest professions of -friendship, they will suddenly seize upon the negroes’ cattle, -and even on the inhabitants themselves. The negroes very seldom -retaliate.<br> -<br> -Like the roving Arabs, the Moors frequently remove from one place to -another, according to the season of the year or the convenience of pasturage. -In the month of February, when the heat of the sun scorches up every -sort of vegetation in the desert, they strike their tents and approach -the negro country to the south, where they reside until the rains commence, -in the month of July. At this time, having purchased corn and -other necessaries from the negroes, in exchange for salt, they again -depart to the northward, and continue in the desert until the rains -are over, and that part of the country becomes burnt up and barren.<br> -<br> -This wandering and restless way of life, while it inures them to hardships, -strengthens at the same time the bonds of their little society, and -creates in them an aversion towards strangers which is almost insurmountable. -Cut off from all intercourse with civilised nations, and boasting an -advantage over the negroes, by possessing, though in a very limited -degree, the knowledge of letters, they are at once the vainest and proudest, -and perhaps the most bigoted, ferocious, and intolerant of all the nations -on the earth - combining in their character the blind superstition of -the negro with the savage cruelty and treachery of the Arab.<br> -<br> -<br> -<br> -CHAPTER XIII - ESCAPE FROM CAPTIVITY<br> -<br> -<br> -<br> -Having, as hath been related, obtained permission to accompany Ali to -Jarra, I took leave of Queen Fatima, who, with much grace and civility, -returned me part of my apparel; and the evening before my departure, -my horse, with the saddle and bridle, were sent me by Ali’s order.<br> -<br> -Early on the morning of the 26th of May I departed from the camp of -Bubaker, accompanied by my two attendants, Johnson and Demba, and a -number of Moors on horseback, Ali, with about fifty horsemen, having -gone privately from the camp during the night. We stopped about -noon at Farani, and were there joined by twelve Moors riding upon camels, -and with them we proceeded to a watering-place in the woods, where we -overtook Ali and his fifty horsemen. They were lodged in some -low shepherd’s tents near the wells.<br> -<br> -<i>May </i>28. - Early in the morning the Moors saddled their horses, -and Ali’s chief slave ordered me to get in readiness. In -a little time the same messenger returned, and, taking my boy by the -shoulder, told him in the Mandingo language, that “Ali was to -be his master in future;” and then turning to me, “The business -is settled at last,” said he; “the boy, and everything but -your horse, goes back to Bubaker, but you may take the old fool” -(meaning Johnson the interpreter) “with you to Jarra.” - I made him no answer; but being shocked beyond description at the idea -of losing the poor boy, I hastened to Ali, who was at breakfast before -his tent, surrounded by many of his courtiers. I told him (perhaps -in rather too passionate a strain), that whatever imprudence I had been -guilty of in coming into his country, I thought I had already been sufficiently -punished for it by being so long detained, and then plundered of all -my little property; which, however, gave me no uneasiness when compared -with what he had just now done to me. I observed that the boy -whom he had now seized upon was not a slave, and had been accused of -no offence; he was, indeed, one of my attendants, and his faithful services -in that station had procured him his freedom. His fidelity and -attachment had made him fellow me into my present situation, and, as -he looked up to me for protection I could not see him deprived of his -liberty without remonstrating against such an act as the height of cruelty -and injustice. Ali made no reply, but, with a haughty air and -malignant smile, told his interpreter that if I did not mount my horse -immediately he would send me back likewise. There is something -in the frown of a tyrant which rouses the most secret emotions of the -heart: I could not suppress my feelings, and for once entertained an -indignant wish to rid the world of such a monster.<br> -<br> -Poor Demba was not less affected than myself. He had formed a -strong attachment towards me, and had a cheerfulness of disposition -which often beguiled the tedious hours of captivity. He was likewise -a proficient in the Bambarra tongue, and promised on that account to -be of great utility to me in future. But it was in vain to expect -anything favourable to humanity from people who are strangers to its -dictates. So, having shaken hands with this unfortunate boy, and -blended my tears with his, assuring him, however, that I would do my -utmost to redeem him, I saw him led off by three of Ali’s slaves -towards the camp at Bubaker.<br> -<br> -When the Moors had mounted their horses I was ordered to follow them, -and, after a toilsome journey through the woods in a very sultry day, -we arrived in the afternoon at a walled village called Doombani, where -we remained two days, waiting for the arrival of some horsemen from -the northward.<br> -<br> -On the 1st of June we departed from Doombani towards Jarra. Our -company now amounted to two hundred men, all on horseback, for the Moors -never use infantry in their wars. They appeared capable of enduring -great fatigue; but from their total want of discipline our journey to -Jarra was more like a fox-chase than the march of an army.<br> -<br> -At Jarra I took up my lodging at the house of my old acquaintance, Daman -Jumma, and informed him of everything that had befallen me. I -particularly requested him to use his interest with Ali to redeem my -boy, and promised him a bill upon Dr. Laidley for the value of two slaves -the moment he brought him to Jarra. Daman very readily undertook -to negotiate the business, but found that Ali considered the boy as -my principal interpreter, and was unwilling to part with him, lest he -should fall a second time into my hands, and be instrumental in conducting -me to Bambarra. Ali, therefore, put off the matter from day to -day, but withal told Daman that if he wished to purchase the boy for -himself he should have him thereafter at the common price of a slave, -which Daman agreed to pay for him whenever Ali should send him to Jarra.<br> -<br> -The chief object of Ali, in this journey to Jarra, as I have already -related, was to procure money from such of the Kaartans as had taken -refuge in his country. Some of these had solicited his protection -to avoid the horrors of war, but by far the greatest number of them -were dissatisfied men, who wished the ruin of their own sovereign. -These people no sooner heard that the Bambarra army had returned to -Sego without subduing Daisy, as was generally expected, than they resolved -to make a sudden attack themselves upon him before he could recruit -his forces, which were now known to be much diminished by a bloody campaign, -and in great want of provisions. With this view they solicited -the Moors to join them, and offered to hire of Ali two hundred horsemen, -which Ali, with the warmest professions of friendship, agreed to furnish, -upon condition that they should previously supply him with four hundred -head of cattle, two hundred garments of blue cloth, and a considerable -quantity of beads and ornaments.<br> -<br> -<i>June </i>8. - In the afternoon Ali sent his chief slave to inform -me that he was about to return to Bubaker: but as he would only stay -there a few days to keep the approaching festival (<i>Banna selee</i>), -and then return to Jarra, I had permission to remain with Daman until -his return. This was joyful news to me; but I had experienced -so many disappointments that I was unwilling to indulge the hope of -its being true, until Johnson came and told me that Ali, with part of -the horsemen, were actually gone from the town, and that the rest were -to follow him in the morning.<br> -<br> -<i>June </i>9. - Early in the morning the remainder of the Moors departed -from the town. They had, during their stay, committed many acts -of robbery; and this morning with the most unparalleled audacity, they -seized upon three girls who were bringing water from the wells, and -carried them away into slavery.<br> -<br> -<i>June </i>12. - Two people, dreadfully wounded, were discovered at -a watering-place in the woods; one of them had just breathed his last, -but the other was brought alive to Jarra. On recovering a little -he informed the people that he had fled through the woods from Kasson; -that Daisy had made war upon Sambo, the king of that country; had surprised -three of his towns, and put all the inhabitants to the sword. -He enumerated by name many of the friends of the Jarra people who had -been murdered in Kasson. This intelligence made the death-howl -universal in Jarra for the space of two days.<br> -<br> -This piece of bad news was followed by another not less distressing. -A number of runaway slaves arrived from Kaarta on the 14th, and reported -that Daisy, having received information concerning the intended attack -upon him, was about to visit Jarra. This made the negroes call -upon Ali for the two hundred horsemen which he was to furnish them according -to engagement. But Ali paid very little attention to their remonstrances, -and at last plainly told them that his cavalry were otherwise employed. -The negroes, thus deserted by the Moors, and fully apprised that the -king of Kaarta would show them as little clemency as he had shown the -inhabitants of Kasson, resolved to collect all their forces, and hazard -a battle before the king, who was now in great distress for want of -provisions, should become too powerful for them. They therefore -assembled about eight hundred effective men in the whole, and with these -they entered Kaarta on the evening of the 18th of June.<br> -<br> -<i>June </i>19. - This morning the wind shifted to the south-west; and -about two o’clock in the afternoon we had a heavy tornado, or -thunder-squall, accompanied with rain, which greatly revived the face -of nature, and gave a pleasant coolness to the air. This was the -first rain that had fallen for many months.<br> -<br> -As every attempt to redeem my boy had hitherto been unsuccessful, and -in all probability would continue to prove so whilst I remained in the -country, I found that it was necessary for me to come to some determination -concerning my own safety before the rains should be fully set in; for -my landlord, seeing no likelihood of being paid for his trouble, began -to wish me away - and Johnson, my interpreter, refusing to proceed, -my situation became very perplexing. I determined to avail myself -of the first opportunity of escaping, and to proceed directly for Bambarra, -as soon as the rains had set in for a few days, so as to afford me the -certainty of finding water in the woods.<br> -<br> -Such was my situation when, on the evening of the 24th of June, I was -startled by the report of some muskets close to the town, and inquiring -the reason, was informed that the Jarra army had returned from fighting -Daisy, and that this firing was by way of rejoicing. However, -when the chief men of the town had assembled, and heard a full detail -of the expedition, they were by no means relieved from their uneasiness -on Daisy’s account. The deceitful Moors having drawn back -from the confederacy, after being hired by the negroes, greatly dispirited -the insurgents, who, instead of finding Daisy with a few friends concealed -in the strong fortress of Gedingooma, had found him at a town near Joka, -in the open country, surrounded by so numerous an army that every attempt -to attack him was at once given up; and the confederates only thought -of enriching themselves by the plunder of the small towns in the neighbourhood. -They accordingly fell upon one of Daisy’s towns, and carried off -the whole of the inhabitants; but lest intelligence of this might reach -Daisy, and induce him to cut off their retreat, they returned through -the woods by night bringing with them the slaves and cattle which they -had captured.<br> -<br> -<i>June </i>26. - This afternoon a spy from Kaarta brought the alarming -intelligence that Daisy had taken Simbing in the morning, and would -be in Jarra some time in the course of the ensuing day. Early -in the morning nearly one-half of the townspeople took the road for -Bambarra, by the way of Deena.<br> -<br> -Their departure was very affecting, the women and children crying, the -men sullen and dejected, and all of them looking back with regret on -their native town, and on the wells and rocks beyond which their ambition -had never tempted them to stray, and where they had laid all their plans -of future happiness, all of which they were now forced to abandon, and -to seek shelter among strangers.<br> -<br> -<i>June </i>27. - About eleven o’clock in the forenoon we were -alarmed by the sentinels, who brought information that Daisy was on -his march towards Jarra, and that the confederate army had fled before -him without firing a gun. The terror of the townspeople on this -occasion is not easily to be described. Indeed, the screams of -the women and children, and the great hurry and confusion that everywhere -prevailed, made me suspect that the Kaartans had already entered the -town; and although I had every reason to be pleased with Daisy’s -behaviour to me when I was at Kemmoo, I had no wish to expose myself -to the mercy of his army, who might in the general confusion mistake -me for a Moor. I therefore mounted my horse, and taking a large -bag of corn before me, rode slowly along with the townspeople, until -we reached the foot of a rocky hill, where I dismounted and drove my -horse up before me. When I had reached the summit I sat down, -and having a full view of the town and the neighbouring country, could -not help lamenting the situation of the poor inhabitants, who were thronging -after me, driving their sheep, cows, goats, &c., and carrying a -scanty portion of provisions and a few clothes. There was a great -noise and crying everywhere upon the road, for many aged people and -children were unable to walk, and these, with the sick, were obliged -to be carried, otherwise they must have been left to certain destruction.<br> -<br> -About five o’clock we arrived at a small farm belonging to the -Jarra people, called Kadeeja; and here I found Daman and Johnson employed -in filling large bags of corn, to be carried upon bullocks, to serve -as provisions for Daman’s family on the road.<br> -<br> -<i>June </i>28. - At daybreak we departed from Kadeeja, and having passed -Troongoomba without stopping, arrived in the afternoon at Queira. -I remained here two days, in order to recruit my horse, which the Moors -had reduced to a perfect Rosinante, and to wait for the arrival of some -Mandingo negroes, who were going for Bambarra in the course of a few -days.<br> -<br> -On the afternoon of the 1st of July, as I was tending my horse in the -fields, Ali’s chief slave and four Moors arrived at Queira, and -took up their lodging at the dooty’s house. My interpreter, -Johnson, who suspected the nature of this visit, sent two boys to overhear -their conversation, from which he learnt that they were sent to convey -me back to Bubaker. The same evening two of the Moors came privately -to look at my horse, and one of them proposed taking it to the dooty’s -hut, but the other observed that such a precaution was unnecessary, -as I could never escape upon such an animal. They then inquired -where I slept, and returned to their companions,<br> -<br> -All this was like a stroke of thunder to me, for I dreaded nothing so -much as confinement again among the Moors, from whose barbarity I had -nothing but death to expect. I therefore determined to set off -immediately for Bambarra, a measure which I thought offered almost the -only chance of saving my life and gaining the object of my mission. -I communicated the design to Johnson, who, although he applauded my -resolution, was so far from showing any inclination to accompany me, -that he solemnly protested he would rather forfeit his wages than go -any farther. He told me that Daman had agreed to give him half -the price of a slave for his service to assist in conducting a coffle -of slaves to Gambia, and that he was determined to embrace the opportunity -of returning to his wife and family.<br> -<br> -Having no hopes, therefore, of persuading him to accompany me, I resolved -to proceed by myself. About midnight I got my clothes in readiness, -which consisted of two shirts, two pairs of trousers, two pocket-handkerchiefs, -an upper and under waistcoat, a mat, and a pair of half-boots; these, -with a cloak, constituted my whole wardrobe. And I had not one -single bead, nor any other article of value in my possession, to purchase -victuals for myself or corn for my horse.<br> -<br> -About daybreak, Johnson, who had been listening to the Moors all night, -came and whispered to me that they were asleep. The awful crisis -was now arrived when I was again either to taste the blessing of freedom -or languish out my days in captivity. A cold sweat moistened my -forehead as I thought on the dreadful alternative, and reflected that, -one way or another, my fate must be decided in the course of the ensuing -day. But to deliberate was to lose the only chance of escaping. -So, taking up my bundle, I stepped gently over the negroes, who were -sleeping in the open air, and having mounted my horse, I bade Johnson -farewell, desiring him to take particular care of the papers I had entrusted -him with, and inform my friends in Gambia that he had left me in good -health, on my way to Bambarra.<br> -<br> -I proceeded with great caution, surveying each bush, and frequently -listening and looking behind me for the Moorish horsemen, until I was -about a mile from the town, when I was surprised to find myself in the -neighbourhood of a korree belonging to the Moors. The shepherds -followed me for about a mile, hooting and throwing stones after me; -and when I was out of their reach, and had begun to indulge the pleasing -hopes of escaping, I was again greatly alarmed to hear somebody holloa -behind me, and looking back, I saw three Moors on horseback, coming -after me at full speed, whooping and brandishing their double-barrelled -guns. I knew it was in vain to think of escaping, and therefore -turned back and met them, when two of them caught hold of my bridle, -one on each side, and the third, presenting his musket, told me I must -go back to Ali. When the human mind has for some time been fluctuating -between hope and despair, tortured with anxiety, and hurried from one -extreme to another, it affords a sort of gloomy relief to know the worst -that can possibly happen. Such was my situation. An indifference -about life and all its enjoyments had completely benumbed my faculties, -and I rode back with the Moors with apparent unconcern. But a -change took place much sooner than I had any reason to expect. -In passing through some thick bushes one of the Moors ordered me to -untie my bundle and show them the contents. Having examined the -different articles, they found nothing worth taking except my cloak, -which they considered as a very valuable acquisition, and one of them -pulling it from me, wrapped it about himself, and, with one of his companions, -rode off with their prize. When I attempted to follow them, the -third, who had remained with me, struck my horse over the head, and -presenting his musket, told me I should proceed no farther. I -now perceived that these men had not been sent by any authority to apprehend -me, but had pursued me solely with a view to rob and plunder me. -Turning my horse’s head, therefore, once more towards the east, -and observing the Moor follow the track of his confederates, I congratulated -myself on having escaped with my life, though in great distress, from -such a horde of barbarians.<br> -<br> -I was no sooner out of sight of the Moor than I struck into the woods -to prevent being pursued, and kept pushing on with all possible speed, -until I found myself near some high rocks, which I remembered to have -seen in my former route from Queira to Deena and, directing my course -a little to the northward, I fortunately fell in with the path.<br> -<br> -<br> -<br> -CHAPTER XIV - JOURNEY CONTINUED; ARRIVAL AT WAWRA<br> -<br> -<br> -<br> -It is impossible to describe the joy that arose in my mind when I looked -around and concluded that I was out of danger. I felt like one -recovered from sickness; I breathed freer; I found unusual lightness -in my limbs; even the desert looked pleasant; and I dreaded nothing -so much as falling in with some wandering parties of Moors, who might -convey me back to the land of thieves and murderers from which I had -just escaped.<br> -<br> -I soon became sensible, however, that my situation was very deplorable, -for I had no means of procuring food nor prospect of finding water. -About ten o’clock, perceiving a herd of goats feeding close to -the road, I took a circuitous route to avoid being seen, and continued -travelling through the wilderness, directing my course by compass nearly -east-south-east, in order to reach as soon as possible some town or -village of the kingdom of Bambarra.<br> -<br> -A little after noon, when the burning heat of the sun was reflected -with double violence from the hot sand, and the distant ridges of the -hills, seen through the ascending vapour, seemed to wave and fluctuate -like the unsettled sea, I became faint with thirst, and climbed a tree -in hopes of seeing distant smoke, or some other appearance of a human -habitation - but in vain: nothing appeared all around but thick underwood -and hillocks of white sand.<br> -<br> -About four o’clock I came suddenly upon a large herd of goats, -and pulling my horse into a bush, I watched to observe if the keepers -were Moors or negroes. In a little time I perceived two Moorish -boys, and with some difficulty persuaded them to approach me. -They informed me that the herd belonged to Ali, and that they were going -to Deena, where the water was more plentiful, and where they intended -to stay until the rain had filled the pools in the desert. They -showed me their empty water-skins, and told me that they had seen no -water in the woods. This account afforded me but little consolation; -however, it was in vain to repine, and I pushed on as fast as possible, -in hopes of reaching some watering-place in the course of the night. -My thirst was by this time become insufferable; my mouth was parched -and inflamed; a sudden dimness would frequently come over my eyes, with -other symptoms of fainting; and my horse being very much fatigued, I -began seriously to apprehend that I should perish of thirst. To -relieve the burning pain in my mouth and throat I chewed the leaves -of different shrubs, but found them all bitter, and of no service to -me.<br> -<br> -A little before sunset, having reached the top of a gentle rising, I -climbed a high tree, from the topmost branches of which I cast a melancholy -look over the barren wilderness, but without discovering the most distant -trace of a human dwelling. The same dismal uniformity of shrubs -and sand everywhere presented itself, and the horizon was as level and -uninterrupted as that of the sea.<br> -<br> -Descending from the tree, I found my horse devouring the stubble and -brushwood with great avidity; and as I was now too faint to attempt -walking, and my horse too much fatigued to carry me I thought it but -an act of humanity, and perhaps the last I should ever have it in my -power to perform, to take off his bridle and let him shift for himself, -in doing which I was suddenly affected with sickness and giddiness, -and falling upon the sand, felt as if the hour of death was fast approaching. -Here, then, thought I, after a short but ineffectual struggle, terminate -all my hopes of being useful in my day and generation; here must the -short span of my life come to an end. I cast, as I believed, a -last look on the surrounding scene, and whilst I reflected on the awful -change that was about to take place, this world with its enjoyment seemed -to vanish from my recollection. Nature, however, at length resumed -its functions, and on recovering my senses, I found myself stretched -upon the sand, with the bridle still in my hand, and the sun just sinking -behind the trees. I now summoned all my resolution, and determined -to make another effort to prolong my existence; and as the evening was -somewhat cool, I resolved to travel as far as my limbs would carry me, -in hopes of reaching - my only resource - a watering-place. With -this view I put the bridle on my horse, and driving him before me, went -slowly along for about an hour, when I perceived some lightning from -the north-east - a most delightful sight, for it promised rain. -The darkness and lightning increased very rapidly, and in less than -an hour I heard the wind roaring among the bushes. I had already -opened my mouth to receive the refreshing drops which I expected, but -I was instantly covered with a cloud of sand, driven with such force -by the wind as to give a very disagreeable sensation to my face and -arms, and I was obliged to mount my horse and stop under a bush to prevent -being suffocated. The sand continued to fly in amazing quantities -for nearly an hour, after which I again set forward, and travelled with -difficulty until ten o’clock. About this time I was agreeably -surprised by some very vivid flashes of lightning, followed by a few -heavy drops of rain. In a little time the sand ceased to fly, -and I alighted and spread out all my clean clothes to collect the rain, -which at length I saw would certainly fall. For more than an hour -it rained plentifully, and I quenched my thirst by wringing and sucking -my clothes.<br> -<br> -There being no moon, it was remarkably dark, so that I was obliged to -lead my horse, and direct my way by the compass, which the lightning -enabled me to observe. In this manner I travelled with tolerable -expedition until past midnight, when the lightning becoming more distant, -I was under the necessity of groping along, to the no small danger of -my hands and eyes. About two o’clock my horse started at -something, and looking round, I was not a little surprised to see a -light at a short distance among the trees; and supposing it to be a -town, I groped along the sand in hopes of finding corn-stalks, cotton, -or other appearances of cultivation, but found none. As I approached -I perceived a number of other lights in different places, and began -to suspect that I had fallen upon a party of Moors. However, in -my present situation, I was resolved to see who they were, if I could -do it with safety. I accordingly led my horse cautiously towards -the light, and heard by the lowing of the cattle and the clamorous tongues -of the herdsmen, that it was a watering-place, and most likely belonged -to the Moors. Delightful as the sound of the human voice was to -me, I resolved once more to strike into the woods, and rather run the -risk of perishing of hunger than trust myself again in their hands; -but being still thirsty, and dreading the approach of the burning day, -I thought it prudent to search for the wells, which I expected to find -at no great distance.<br> -<br> -In this purpose I inadvertently approached so near to one of the tents -as to be perceived by a woman, who immediately screamed out. Two -people came running to her assistance from some of the neighbouring -tents, and passed so very near to me that I thought I was discovered, -and hastened again into the woods.<br> -<br> -About a mile from this place I heard a loud and confused noise somewhere -to the right of my course, and in a short time was happy to find it -was the croaking of frogs, which was heavenly music to my ears. -I followed the sound, and at daybreak arrived at some shallow muddy -pools, so full of frogs, that it was difficult to discern the water. -The noise they made frightened my horse, and I was obliged to keep them -quiet, by beating the water with a branch, until he had drunk. -Having here quenched my thirst, I ascended a tree, and the morning being -calm, I soon perceived the smoke of the watering-place which I had passed -in the night, and observed another pillar of smoke east-south-east, -distant twelve or fourteen miles. Towards this I directed my route, -and reached the cultivated ground a little before eleven o’clock, -where, seeing a number of negroes at work planting corn, I inquired -the name of the town, and was informed that it was a Foulah village -belonging to Ali, called Shrilla. I had now some doubts about -entering it; but my horse being very much fatigued, and the day growing -hot - not to mention the pangs of hunger, which began to assail me - -I resolved to venture; and accordingly rode up to the dooty’s -house, where I was unfortunately denied admittance, and could not obtain -oven a handful of corn either for myself or horse. Turning from -this inhospitable door, I rode slowly out of the town, and, perceiving -some low, scattered huts without the walls, I directed my route towards -them, knowing that in Africa, as well as in Europe, hospitality does -not always prefer the highest dwellings. At the door of one of -these huts an old motherly-looking woman sat, spinning cotton. -I made signs to her that I was hungry, and inquired if she had any victuals -with her in the hut. She immediately laid down her distaff, and -desired me, in Arabic, to come in. When I had seated myself upon -the floor, she set before me a dish of kouskous that had been left the -preceding night, of which I made a tolerable meal; and in return for -this kindness I gave her one of my pocket-handkerchiefs, begging at -the same time a little corn for my horse, which she readily brought -me.<br> -<br> -Whilst my horse was feeding the people began to assemble, and one of -them whispered something to my hostess which very much excited her surprise. -Though I was not well acquainted with the Foulah language, I soon discovered -that some of the men wished to apprehend and carry me back to Ali, in -hopes, I suppose, of receiving a reward. I therefore tied up the -corn; and lest any one should suspect I had run away from the Moors, -I took a northerly direction, and went cheerfully along, driving my -horse before me, followed by all the boys and girls of the town. -When I had travelled about two miles, and got quit of all my troublesome -attendants, I struck again into the woods, and took shelter under a -large tree, where I found it necessary to rest myself, a bundle of twigs -serving me for a bed, and my saddle for a pillow.<br> -<br> -<i>July </i>4. - At daybreak I pursued my course through the woods as -formerly; saw numbers of antelopes, wild hogs, and ostriches, but the -soil was more hilly, and not so fertile as I had found it the preceding -day. About eleven o’clock I ascended an eminence, where -I climbed a tree, and discovered, at about eight miles’ distance, -an open part of the country, with several red spots, which I concluded -were cultivated land, and, directing my course that way, came to the -precincts of a watering-place about one o’clock. From the -appearance of the place, I judged it to belong to the Foulahs, and was -hopeful that I should meet a better reception than I had experienced -at Shrilla. In this I was not deceived, for one of the shepherds -invited me to come into his tent and partake of some dates. This -was one of those low Foulah tents in which there is room just sufficient -to sit upright, and in which the family, the furniture, &c., seem -huddled together like so many articles in a chest. When I had -crept upon my hands and knees into this humble habitation, I found that -it contained a woman and three children, who, together with the shepherd -and myself, completely occupied the floor. A dish of boiled corn -and dates was produced, and the master of the family, as is customary -in this part of the country, first tasted it himself, and then desired -me to follow his example. Whilst I was eating, the children kept -their eyes fixed upon me, and no sooner did the shepherd pronounce the -word <i>Nazarani</i>, than they began to cry, and their mother crept -slowly towards the door, out of which she sprang like a greyhound, and -was instantly followed by her children. So frightened were they -at the very name of a Christian, that no entreaties could induce them -to approach the tent. Here I purchased some corn for my horse, -in exchange for some brass buttons, and having thanked the shepherd -for his hospitality, struck again into the woods. At sunset I -came to a road that took the direction for Bambarra, and resolved to -follow it for the night; but about eight o’clock, hearing some -people coming from the southward, I thought it prudent to hide myself -among some thick bushes near the road. As these thickets are generally -full of wild beasts, I found my situation rather unpleasant, sitting -in the dark, holding my horse by the nose with both hands, to prevent -him from neighing, and equally afraid of the natives without and the -wild beasts within. My fears, however, were soon dissipated; for -the people, after looking round the thicket, and perceiving nothing, -went away, and I hastened to the more open parts of the wood, where -I pursued my journey east-south-east, until past midnight, when the -joyful cry of frogs induced me once more to deviate a little from my -route, in order to quench my thirst. Having accomplished this -from a large pool of rain-water, I sought for an open place, with a -single tree in the midst, under which I made my bed for the night. -I was disturbed by some wolves towards morning, which induced me to -set forward a little before day; and having passed a small village called -Wassalita, I came about ten o’clock (July 5th), to a negro town -called Wawra, which properly belongs to Kaarta, but was at this time -tributary to Mansong, King of Bambarra.<br> -<br> -<br> -<br> -CHAPTER XV - NEGRO CURIOSITY; A MESSAGE FROM THE KING<br> -<br> -<br> -<br> -Wawra is a small town surrounded with high walls, and inhabited by a -mixture of Mandingoes and Foulahs. The inhabitants employ themselves -chiefly in cultivating corn, which they exchange with the Moors for -salt. Here, being in security from the Moors, and very much fatigued, -I resolved to rest myself; and meeting with a hearty welcome from the -dooty, whose name was Flancharee, I laid myself down upon a bullock’s -hide, and slept soundly for about two hours. The curiosity of -the people would not allow me to sleep any longer. They had seen -my saddle and bridle, and were assembled in great numbers to learn who -I was and whence I came. Some were of opinion that I was an Arab; -others insisted that I was some Moorish Sultan, and they continued to -debate the matter with such warmth that the noise awoke me. The -dooty (who had formerly been at Gambia) at last interposed in my behalf, -and assured them that I was certainly a white man; but he was convinced -from my appearance that I was a poor one.<br> -<br> -<i>July </i>6. - It rained very much in the night, and at daylight I -departed in company with a negro who was going to a town called Dingyee -for corn; but we had not proceeded above a mile before the ass upon -which he rode threw him off, and he returned, leaving me to prosecute -the journey by myself.<br> -<br> -I reached Dingyee about noon, but the dooty and most of the inhabitants -had gone into the fields to cultivate corn. An old Foulah, observing -me wandering about the town, desired me to come to his hut, where I -was well entertained; and the dooty, when he returned, sent me some -victuals for myself and corn for my horse.<br> -<br> -<i>July </i>7. - In the morning, when I was about to depart, my landlord, -with a great deal of diffidence, begged me to give him a lock of my -hair. He had been told, he said, that white men’s hair made -a saphie that would give to the possessor all the knowledge of white -men. I had never before heard of so simple a mode of education, -but instantly complied with the request.<br> -<br> -I reached a small town called Wassiboo, about twelve o’clock, -where I was obliged to stop until an opportunity should offer of procuring -a guide to Satilé, which is distant a very long day’s journey, -through woods without any beaten path. I accordingly took up my -residence at the dooty’s house, where I stayed four days, during -which time I amused myself by going to the fields with the family to -plant corn. Cultivation is carried on here on a very extensive -scale; and, as the natives themselves express it, “Hunger is never -known.” In cultivating the soil the men and women work together. -They use a large sharp hoe, much superior to that used in Gambia, but -they are obliged, for fear of the Moors, to carry their arms with them -to the field. The master, with the handle of his spear, marks -the field into regular plats, one of which is assigned to every three -slaves.<br> -<br> -On the evening of the 11th eight of the fugitive Kaartans arrived at -Wassiboo. They had found it impossible to live under the tyrannical -government of the Moors, and were now going to transfer their allegiance -to the King of Bambarra. They offered to take me along with them -as far as Satilé, and I accepted the offer.<br> -<br> -<i>July </i>12. - At daybreak we set out, and travelled with uncommon -expedition until sunset. We stopped only twice in the course of -the day, once at a watering-place in the woods, and at another time -at the ruins of a town formerly belonging to Daisy, called <i>Illa-compe</i> -(the corn-town). When we arrived in the neighbourhood of Satilé, -the people who were employed in the corn-fields, seeing so many horsemen, -took us for a party of Moors, and ran screaming away from us. -The whole town was instantly alarmed, and the slaves were seen in every -direction driving the cattle and horses towards the town. It was -in vain that one of our company galloped up to undeceive them; it only -frightened them the more; and when we arrived at the town we found the -gates shut, and the people all under arms. After a long parley -we were permitted to enter, and, as there was every appearance of a -tornado, the dooty allowed us to sleep in his <i>baloon</i>, and gave -us each a bullock’s hide for a bed.<br> -<br> -<i>July </i>13. - Early in the morning we again set forward. The -roads were wet and slippery, but the country was very beautiful, abounding -with rivulets, which were increased by the rain into rapid streams. -About ten o’clock we came to-the rains of a village which had -been destroyed by war about six months before.<br> -<br> -About noon my horse was so much fatigued that I could not keep up with -my companions; I therefore dismounted, and desired them to ride on, -telling them that I would follow as soon as my horse had rested a little. -But I found them unwilling to leave me; the lions, they said, were very -numerous in those parts, and though they might not so readily attack -a body of people, they would soon find out an individual; it was therefore -agreed that one of the company should stay with me to assist in driving -my horse, while the others passed on to Galloo to procure lodgings, -and collect grass for the horses before night. Accompanied by -this worthy negro, I drove my horse before me until about four o’clock, -when we came in sight of Galloo, a considerable town, standing in a -fertile and beautiful valley surrounded with high rocks.<br> -<br> -Early next morning (July 14th), having first returned many thanks to -our landlord for his hospitality, while my fellow-travellers offered -up their prayers that he might never want, we set forward, and about -three o’clock arrived at Moorja, a large town, famous for its -trade in salt, which the Moors bring here in great quantities, to exchange -for corn and cotton cloth. As most of the people here are Mohammedans, -it is not allowed to the kafirs to drink beer, which they call <i>neodollo -</i>(corn spirit), except in certain houses. In one of these I -saw about twenty people sitting round large vessels of this beer with -the greatest conviviality, many of them in a state of intoxication.<br> -<br> -On the morning of the 16th we again set forward, accompanied by a coffle -of fourteen asses, loaded with salt, bound for Sansanding. The -road was particularly romantic, between two rocky hills; but the Moors -sometimes lie in wait here to plunder strangers. As soon as we -had reached the open country the master of the salt coffle thanked us -for having stayed with him so long, and now desired us to ride on. -The sun was almost set before we reached Datliboo. In the evening -we had a most tremendous tornado. The house in which we lodged -being flat-roofed, admitted the rain in streams; the floor was soon -ankle-deep, the fire extinguished, and we were left to pass the night -upon some bundles of firewood that happened to lie in a corner.<br> -<br> -<i>July </i>17. - We departed from Datliboo, and about ten o’clock -passed a large coffle returning from Sego with corn-hoes, mats, and -other household utensils. At five o’clock we came to a large -village where we intended to pass the night, but the dooty would not -receive us. When we departed from this place my horse was so much -fatigued that I was under the necessity of driving him, and it was dark -before we reached Fanimboo, a small village, the dooty of which no sooner -heard that I was a white man than he brought out three old muskets, -and was much disappointed when he was told that I could not repair them.<br> -<br> -<i>July </i>18. - We continued our journey, but, owing to a light supper -the preceding night we felt ourselves rather hungry this morning, and -endeavoured to procure some corn at a village, but without success.<br> -<br> -My horse becoming weaker and weaker every day, was now of very little -service to me; I was obliged to drive him before me for the greater -part of the day, and did not reach Geosorro until eight o’clock -in the evening. I found my companions wrangling with the dooty, -who had absolutely refused to give or sell them any provisions; and -as none of us had tasted victuals for the last twenty-four hours, we -were by no means disposed to fast another day if we could help it. -But finding our entreaties without effect, and being very much fatigued, -I fell asleep, from which I was awakened about midnight with the joyful -information <i>Kinne nata</i>! (“The victuals are come”) -This made the remainder of the night pass away pleasantly, and at daybreak, -July 19th, we resumed our journey, proposing to stop at a village called -Doolinkeaboo for the night following. My fellow-travellers, having -better horses than myself, soon left me, and I was walking barefoot, -driving my horse, when I was met by a coffle of slaves, about seventy -in number, coming from Sego. They were tied together by their -necks with thongs of a bullock’s hide, twisted like a rope - seven -slaves upon a thong, and a man with a musket between every seven. -Many of the slaves were ill-conditioned, and a great number of them -women. In the rear came Sidi Mahomed’s servant, whom I remembered -to have seen at the camp of Benowm. He presently knew me, and -told me that these slaves were going to Morocco by the way of Ludamar -and the Great Desert.<br> -<br> -In the afternoon, as I approached Doolinkeaboo, I met about twenty Moors -on horseback, the owners of the slaves I had seen in the morning. -They were well armed with muskets, and were very inquisitive concerning -me, but not so rude as their countrymen generally are. From them -I learned that Sidi Mahomed was not at Sego, but had gone to Kancaba -for gold-dust.<br> -<br> -When I arrived at Doolinkeaboo I was informed that my fellow-travellers -had gone on, but my horse was so much fatigued that I could not possibly -proceed after them. The dooty of the town at my request gave me -a draught of water, which is generally looked upon as an earnest of -greater hospitality, and I had no doubt of making up for the toils of -the day by a good supper and a sound sleep; unfortunately, I had neither -the one nor the other. The night was rainy and tempestuous, and -the dooty limited his hospitality to the draught of water.<br> -<br> -<i>July </i>20. - In the morning I endeavoured, both by entreaties and -threats, to procure some victuals from the dooty, but in vain. -I even begged some corn from one of his female slaves, as she was washing -it at the well, and had the mortification to be refused. However, -when the dooty was gone to the fields, his wife sent me a handful of -meal, which I mixed with water and drank for breakfast. About -eight o’clock I departed from Doolinkeaboo, and at noon stopped -a few minutes at a large korree, where I had some milk given me by the -Foulahs, and hearing that two negroes were going from thence to Sega, -I was happy to have their company, and we set out immediately. -About four o’clock we stopped at a small village, where one of -the negroes met with an acquaintance, who invited us to a sort of public -entertainment, which was conducted with more than common propriety. -A dish, made of sour milk and meal, called <i>sinkatoo</i>, and beer -made from their corn, was distributed with great liberality, and the -women were admitted into the society, a circumstance I had never before -observed in Africa. There was no compulsion - every one was at -liberty to drink as he pleased - they nodded to each other when about -to drink, and on setting down the calabash commonly said <i>Berka</i> -(“Thank you”). Both men and women appeared to be somewhat -intoxicated, but they were far from being quarrelsome.<br> -<br> -Departing from thence, we passed several large villages, where I was -constantly taken for a Moor and became the subject of much merriment -to the Bambarrans, who, seeing me drive my horse before me, laughed -heartily at my appearance. “He has been at Mecca,” -says one, “you may see that by his clothes;” another asked -me if my horse was sick; a third wished to purchase it, &c., so -that, I believe, the very slaves were ashamed to be seen in my company. -Just before it was dark we took up our lodging for the night at a small -village, where I procured some victuals for myself and some corn for -my horse, at the moderate price of a button; and was told that I should -see the Niger (which the negroes call Joliba, or the Great Water) early -the next day. The lions are here very numerous; the gates are -shut a little after sunset, and nobody allowed to go out. The -thoughts of seeing the Niger in the morning, and the troublesome buzzing -of mosquitoes, prevented me from shutting my eyes during the night; -and I had saddled my horse, and was in readiness before daylight, but, -on account of the wild beasts, we were obliged to wait until the people -were stirring and the gates opened. This happened to be a market -day at Sego, and the roads were everywhere filled with people carrying -different articles to sell. We passed four large villages, and -at eight o’clock saw the smoke over Sego.<br> -<br> -As we approached the town I was fortunate enough to overtake the fugitive -Kaartans, to whose kindness I had been so much indebted in my journey -through Bambarra. They readily agreed to introduce me to the king; -and we rode together through some marshy ground, where, as I was anxiously -looking around for the river, one of them called out, <i>Geo affili</i>! -(“See the water!”) and, looking forwards, I saw with infinite -pleasure the great object of my mission - the long-sought-for majestic -Niger, glittering in the morning sun, as broad as the Thames at Westminster, -and flowing slowly to <i>the eastward</i>. I hastened to the brink, -and having drunk of the water, lifted up my fervent thanks in prayer -to the Great Ruler of all things for having thus far crowned my endeavours -with success.<br> -<br> -The circumstance of the Niger’s flowing towards the east, and -its collateral points, did not, however, excite my surprise, for, although -I had left Europe in great hesitation on this subject, and rather believed -that it ran in the contrary direction, I had made such frequent inquiries -during my progress concerning this river, and received from the negroes -of different nations such clear and decisive assurances that its general -course was <i>towards the rising sun</i>, as scarce left any doubt on -my mind, and more especially as I knew that Major Houghton had collected -similar information in the same manner.<br> -<br> -Sego, the capital of Bambarra, at which I had now arrived, consists, -properly speaking, of four distinct towns - two on the northern bank -of the Niger, called Sego Korro and Sego Boo; and two on the southern -bank, called Sego Soo Korro and Sego See Korro. They are all surrounded -with high mud walls. The houses are built of clay, of a square -form with flat roofs - some of them have two storeys, and many of them -are whitewashed. Besides these buildings, Moorish mosques are -seen in every quarter; and the streets, though narrow, are broad enough -for every useful purpose, in a country where wheel carriages are entirely -unknown. From the best inquiries I could make, I have reason to -believe that Sego contains altogether about thirty thousand inhabitants. -The King of Bambarra constantly resides at Sego See Korro. He -employs a great many slaves in conveying people over the river, and -the money they receive (though the fare is only ten kowrie shells for -each individual) furnishes a considerable revenue to the king in the -course of a year. The canoes are of a singular construction, each -of them being formed of the trunks of two large trees rendered concave, -and joined together, not side by side, but endways - the junction being -exactly across the middle of the canoe: they are therefore very long, -and disproportionably narrow, and have neither decks nor masts: they -are, however, very roomy, for I observed in one of them four horses -and several people crossing over the river. When we arrived at -this ferry, with a view to pass over to that part of the town in which -the king resides, we found a great number waiting for a passage: they -looked at me with silent wonder, and I distinguished with concern many -Moors among them. There were three different places of embarkation, -and the ferrymen were very diligent and expeditious; but from the crowd -of people I could not immediately obtain a passage, and sat down upon -the bank of the river to wait for a more favourable opportunity. -The view of this extensive city - the numerous canoes upon the river -- the crowded population, and the cultivated state of the surrounding -country - formed altogether a prospect of civilisation and magnificence -which I little expected to find in the bosom of Africa.<br> -<br> -I waited more than two hours without having an opportunity of crossing -the river, during which time the people who had crossed carried information -to Mansong, the king, that a white man was waiting for a passage, and -was coming to see him. He immediately sent over one of his chief -men, who informed me that the king could not possibly see me until he -knew what had brought me into his country; and that I must not presume -to cross the river without the king’s permission. He therefore -advised me to lodge at a distant village, to which he pointed, for the -night, and said that in the morning he would give me further instructions -how to conduct myself. This was very discouraging. However, -as there was no remedy, I set off for the village, where I found, to -my great mortification, that no person would admit me into his house. -I was regarded with astonishment and fear, and was obliged to sit all -day without victuals in the shade of a tree; and the night threatened -to be very uncomfortable - for the wind rose, and there was great appearance -of a heavy rain - and the wild beasts are so very numerous in the neighbourhood -that I should have been under the necessity of climbing up a tree and -resting amongst the branches. About sunset, however, as I was -preparing to pass the night in this manner, and had turned my horse -loose that he might graze at liberty, a woman, returning from the labours -of the field, stopped to observe me, and perceiving that I was weary -and dejected, inquired into my situation, which I briefly explained -to her; whereupon, with looks of great compassion, she took up my saddle -and bridle, and told me to follow her. Having conducted me into -her hut, she lighted up a lamp, spread a mat on the floor, and told -me I might remain there for the night. Finding that I was very -hungry, she said she would procure me something to eat. She accordingly -went out, and returned in a short time with a very fine fish, which, -having caused to be half broiled upon some embers, she gave me for supper. -The rites of hospitality being thus performed towards a stranger in -distress, my worthy benefactress (pointing to the mat, and telling me -I might sleep there without apprehension) called to the female part -of her family, who had stood gazing on me all the while in fixed astonishment, -to resume their task of spinning cotton, in which they continued to -employ themselves great part of the night. They lightened their -labour by songs, one of which was composed extempore, for I was myself -the subject of it. It was sung by one of the young women, the -rest joining in a sort of chorus. The air was sweet and plaintive, -and the words, literally translated, were these:- “The winds roared, -and the rains fell. The poor white man, faint and weary, came -and sat under our tree. He has no mother to bring him milk, no -wife to grind his corn. <i>Chorus</i>. - Let us pity the white -man, no mother has he,” &c. &c. Trifling as this -recital may appear to the reader, to a person in my situation the circumstance -was affecting in the highest degree. I was oppressed by such unexpected -kindness, and sleep fled from my eyes. In the morning I presented -my compassionate landlady with two of the four brass buttons which remained -on my waistcoat - the only recompense I could make her.<br> -<br> -<i>July </i>21. - I continued in the village all this day in conversation -with the natives, who came in crowds to see me, but was rather uneasy -towards evening to find that no message had arrived from the king, the -more so as the people began to whisper that Mansong had received some -very unfavourable accounts of me from the Moors and slatees residing -at Sego, who, it seems, were exceedingly suspicious concerning the motives -of my journey. I learned that many consultations had been held -with the king concerning my reception and disposal; and some of the -villagers frankly told me that I had many enemies, and must expect no -favour.<br> -<br> -<i>July </i>22. - About eleven o’clock a messenger arrived from -the king, but he gave me very little satisfaction. He inquired -particularly if I had brought any present, and seemed much disappointed -when he was told that I had been robbed of everything by the Moors. -When I proposed to go along with him, he told me to stop until the afternoon, -when the king would send for me.<br> -<br> -<i>July </i>23. - In the afternoon another messenger arrived from Mansong, -with a bag in his hands. He told me it was the king’s pleasure -that I should depart forthwith from the vicinage of Sego; but that Mansong, -wishing to relieve a white man in distress, had sent me five thousand -kowries, to enable me to purchase provisions in the course of my journey: -the messenger added, that if my intentions were really to proceed to -Jenné, he had orders to accompany me as a guide to Sansanding. -I was at first puzzled to account for this behaviour of the king; but -from the conversation I had with the guide, I had afterwards reason -to believe that Mansong would willingly have admitted me into his presence -at Sego, but was apprehensive he might not be able to protect me against -the blind and inveterate malice of the Moorish inhabitants. His -conduct, therefore, was at once prudent and liberal. The circumstances -under which I made my appearance at Sego were undoubtedly such as might -create in the mind of the king a well-warranted suspicion that I wished -to conceal the true object of my journey. He argued, probably, -as my guide argued, who, when he was told that I had come from a great -distance, and through many dangers, to behold the Joliba river, naturally -inquired if there were no rivers in my own country, and whether one -river was not like another. Notwithstanding this, and in spite -of the jealous machinations of the Moors, this benevolent prince thought -it sufficient that a white man was found in his dominions, in a condition -of extreme wretchedness, and that no other plea was necessary to entitle -the sufferer to his bounty.<br> -<br> -<br> -<br> -Footnotes:<br> -<br> -<a name="footnote1"></a><a href="#citation1">{1}</a> I believe -that similar charms or amulets, under the names of <i>domini, grigri, -fetich</i>, &c., are common in all parts of Africa.<br> -<br> -<a name="footnote2"></a><a href="#citation2">{2}</a> Maana is -within a short distance of the ruins of Fort St. Joseph, on the Senegal -river, formerly a French factory.<br> -<br> -<br> -<br> -<br> -<br> -*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK, TRAVELS IN AFRICA - VOLUME 1 ***<br> -<pre> - -******This file should be named mng110h.htm or mng110h.zip****** -Corrected EDITIONS of our EBooks get a new NUMBER, mng111h.htm -VERSIONS based on separate sources get new LETTER, mng110ah.htm - -Project Gutenberg eBooks are often created from several printed -editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the US -unless a copyright notice is included. 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You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org - - - - - -Title: Travels in the Interior of Africa, Vol. 1 [of 2] - - -Author: Mungo Park - -Editor: Henry Morley - -Release Date: July 31, 2014 [eBook #5266] -This file was first posted on June 20, 2002] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - - -***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TRAVELS IN THE INTERIOR OF AFRICA, -VOL. 1 [OF 2]*** - - -Transcribed from the 1893 Cassell & Company edition by David Price, email -ccx074@pglaf.org - - CASSELL’S NATIONAL LIBRARY - - * * * * * - - - - - - TRAVELS - IN THE - INTERIOR OF AFRICA - - - BY - MUNGO PARK - - VOL. I. - - [Picture: Decorative graphic] - - CASSELL & COMPANY Limited - _LONDON PARIS & MELBOURNE_ - 1893 - - - - -INTRODUCTION - - -MUNGO PARK was born on the 10th of September, 1771, the son of a farmer -at Fowlshiels, near Selkirk. After studying medicine in Edinburgh, he -went out, at the age of twenty-one, assistant-surgeon in a ship bound for -the East Indies. When he came back the African Society was in want of an -explorer, to take the place of Major Houghton, who had died. Mungo Park -volunteered, was accepted, and in his twenty-fourth year, on the 22nd of -May, 1795, he sailed for the coasts of Senegal, where he arrived in June. - -Thence he proceeded on the travels of which this book is the record. He -was absent from England for a little more than two years and a half; -returned a few days before Christmas, 1797. He was then twenty-six years -old. The African Association published the first edition of his travels -as “Travels in the Interior Districts of Africa, 1795–7, by Mungo Park, -with an Appendix containing Geographical Illustrations of Africa, by -Major Rennell.” - -Park married, and settled at Peebles in medical practice, but was -persuaded by the Government to go out again. He sailed from Portsmouth -on the 30th of January, 1805, resolved to trace the Niger to its source -or perish in the attempt. He perished. The natives attacked him while -passing through a narrow strait of the river at Boussa, and killed him, -with all that remained of his party, except one slave. The record of -this fatal voyage, partly gathered from his journals, and closed by -evidences of the manner of his death, was first published in 1815, as -“The Journal of a Mission to the Interior of Africa in 1805, by Mungo -Park, together with other Documents, Official and Private, relating to -the same Mission. To which is prefixed an Account of the Life of Mr. -Park.” - - H. M. - - - - -CHAPTER I. -JOURNEY FROM PORTSMOUTH TO THE GAMBIA. - - -SOON after my return from the East Indies in 1793, having learned that -the noblemen and gentlemen associated for the purpose of prosecuting -discoveries in the interior of Africa were desirous of engaging a person -to explore that continent, by the way of the Gambia river, I took -occasion, through means of the President of the Royal Society, to whom I -had the honour to be known, of offering myself for that service. I had -been informed that a gentleman of the name of Houghton, a captain in the -army, and formerly fort-major at Goree, had already sailed to the Gambia, -under the direction of the Association, and that there was reason to -apprehend he had fallen a sacrifice to the climate, or perished in some -contest with the natives. But this intelligence, instead of deterring me -from my purpose, animated me to persist in the offer of my services with -the greater solicitude. I had a passionate desire to examine into the -productions of a country so little known, and to become experimentally -acquainted with the modes of life and character of the natives. I knew -that I was able to bear fatigue, and I relied on my youth and the -strength of my constitution to preserve me from the effects of the -climate. The salary which the committee allowed was sufficiently large, -and I made no stipulation for future reward. If I should perish in my -journey, I was willing that my hopes and expectations should perish with -me; and if I should succeed in rendering the geography of Africa more -familiar to my countrymen, and in opening to their ambition and industry -new sources of wealth and new channels of commerce, I knew that I was in -the hands of men of honour, who would not fail to bestow that -remuneration which my successful services should appear to them to merit. -The committee of the Association having made such inquiries as they -thought necessary, declared themselves satisfied with the qualifications -that I possessed, and accepted me for the service; and, with that -liberality which on all occasions distinguishes their conduct, gave me -every encouragement which it was in their power to grant, or which I -could with propriety ask. - -It was at first proposed that I should accompany Mr. James Willis, who -was then recently appointed consul at Senegambia, and whose countenance -in that capacity, it was thought, might have served and protected me; but -Government afterwards rescinded his appointment, and I lost that -advantage. The kindness of the committee, however, supplied all that was -necessary. Being favoured by the secretary of the Association, the late -Henry Beaufoy, Esq., with a recommendation to Dr. John Laidley (a -gentleman who had resided many years at an English factory on the banks -of the Gambia), and furnished with a letter of credit on him for £200, I -took my passage in the brig _Endeavour_—a small vessel trading to the -Gambia for beeswax and ivory, commanded by Captain Richard Wyatt—and I -became impatient for my departure. - -My instructions were very plain and concise. I was directed, on my -arrival in Africa, “to pass on to the river Niger, either by way of -Bambouk, or by such other route as should be found most convenient. That -I should ascertain the course, and, if possible, the rise and termination -of that river. That I should use my utmost exertions to visit the -principal towns or cities in its neighbourhood, particularly Timbuctoo -and Houssa; and that I should be afterwards at liberty to return to -Europe, either by the way of the Gambia, or by such other route as, under -all the then existing circumstances of my situation and prospects, should -appear to me to be most advisable.” - -We sailed from Portsmouth on the 22nd day of May, 1795. On the 4th of -June we saw the mountains over Mogadore, on the coast of Africa; and on -the 21st of the same month, after a pleasant voyage of thirty days, we -anchored at Jillifrey, a town on the northern bank of the river Gambia, -opposite to James’s Island, where the English had formerly a small fort. - -The kingdom of Barra, in which the town of Jillifrey is situated, -produces great plenty of the necessaries of life; but the chief trade of -the inhabitants is in salt, which commodity they carry up the river in -canoes as high as Barraconda, and bring down in return Indian corn, -cotton cloths, elephants’ teeth, small quantities of gold dust, &c. The -number of canoes and people constantly employed in this trade makes the -king of Barra more formidable to Europeans than any other chieftain on -the river; and this circumstance probably encouraged him to establish -those exorbitant duties which traders of all nations are obliged to pay -at entry, amounting to nearly £20 on every vessel, great and small. -These duties or customs are generally collected in person by the -_alkaid_, or governor of Jillifrey, and he is attended on these occasions -by a numerous train of dependants, among whom are found many who, by -their frequent intercourse with the English, have acquired a smattering -of our language: but they are commonly very noisy and very troublesome, -begging for everything they fancy with such earnestness and importunity, -that traders, in order to get quit of them, are frequently obliged to -grant their requests. - -On the 23rd we departed from Jillifrey, and proceeded to Vintain, a town -situated about two miles up a creek on the southern side of the river. -This place is much resorted to by Europeans on account of the great -quantities of beeswax which are brought hither for sale; the wax is -collected in the woods by the Feloops, a wild and unsociable race of -people. Their country, which is of considerable extent, abounds in rice; -and the natives supply the traders, both on the Gambia and Cassamansa -rivers, with that article, and also with goats and poultry, on very -reasonable terms. The honey which they collect is chiefly used by -themselves in making a strong intoxicating liquor, much the same as the -mead which is produced from honey in Great Britain. - -In their traffic with Europeans, the Feloops generally employ a factor or -agent of the Mandingo nation, who speaks a little English, and is -acquainted with the trade of the river. This broker makes the bargain; -and, with the connivance of the European, receives a certain part only of -the payment, which he gives to his employer as the whole; the remainder -(which is very truly called the _cheating money_) he receives when the -Feloop is gone, and appropriates to himself as a reward for his trouble. - -The language of the Feloops is appropriate and peculiar; and as their -trade is chiefly conducted, as hath been observed, by Mandingoes, the -Europeans have no inducement to learn it. - -On the 26th we left Vintain, and continued our course up the river, -anchoring whenever the tide failed us, and frequently towing the vessel -with the boat. The river is deep and muddy; the banks are covered with -impenetrable thickets of mangrove; and the whole of the adjacent country -appears to be flat and swampy. - -The Gambia abounds with fish, some species of which are excellent food; -but none of them that I recollect are known in Europe. At the entrance -from the sea sharks are found in great abundance, and, higher up, -alligators and the hippopotamus (or river-horse) are very numerous. - -In six days after leaving Vintain we reached Jonkakonda, a place of -considerable trade, where our vessel was to take in part of her lading. -The next morning the several European traders came from their different -factories to receive their letters, and learn the nature and amount of -her cargo; and the captain despatched a messenger to Dr. Laidley to -inform him of my arrival. He came to Jonkakonda the morning following, -when I delivered him Mr. Beaufoy’s letter, and he gave me a kind -invitation to spend my time at his house until an opportunity should -offer of prosecuting my journey. This invitation was too acceptable to -be refused, and being furnished by the Doctor with a horse and guide, I -set out from Jonkakonda at daybreak on the 5th of July, and at eleven -o’clock arrived at Pisania, where I was accommodated with a room and -other conveniences in the Doctor’s house. - -Pisania is a small village in the king of Yany’s dominions, established -by British subjects as a factory for trade, and inhabited solely by them -and their black servants. It is situated on the banks of the Gambia, -sixteen miles above Jonkakonda. The white residents, at the time of may -arrival there, consisted only of Dr. Laidley, and two gentlemen who were -brothers, of the name of Ainsley; but their domestics were numerous. -They enjoyed perfect security under the king’s protection, and being -highly esteemed and respected by the natives at large, wanted no -accommodation or comfort which the country could supply, and the greatest -part of the trade in slaves, ivory, and gold was in their hands. - -Being now settled for some time at my ease, my first object was to learn -the Mandingo tongue, being the language in almost general use throughout -this part of Africa, and without which I was fully convinced that I never -could acquire an extensive knowledge of the country or its inhabitants. -In this pursuit I was greatly assisted by Dr. Laidley. - -In researches of this kind, and in observing the manners and customs of -the natives, in a country so little known to the nations of Europe, and -furnished with so many striking and uncommon objects of nature, my time -passed not unpleasantly, and I began to flatter myself that I had escaped -the fever, or seasoning, to which Europeans, on their first arrival in -hot climates, are generally subject. But on the 31st of July I -imprudently exposed myself to the night-dew in observing an eclipse of -the moon, with a view to determine the longitude of the place; the next -day I found myself attacked with a smart fever and delirium, and such an -illness followed as confined me to the house during the greatest part of -August. My recovery was very slow, but I embraced every short interval -of convalescence to walk out, and make myself acquainted with the -productions of the country. - -In one of those excursions, having rambled farther than usual, on a hot -day, I brought on a return of my fever, and on the 10th of September I -was again confined to my bed. The fever, however, was not so violent as -before; and in the course of three weeks I was able, when the weather -would permit, to renew my botanical excursions; and when it rained, I -amused myself with drawing plants, &c., in my chamber. The care and -attention of Dr. Laidley contributed greatly to alleviate my sufferings; -his company and conversation beguiled the tedious hours during that -gloomy season, when the rain falls in torrents; when suffocating heats -oppress by day, and when the night is spent by the terrified travellers -in listening to the croaking of frogs (of which the numbers are beyond -imagination), the shrill cry of the jackal, and the deep howling of the -hyæna, a dismal concert, interrupted only by the roar of such tremendous -thunder as no person can form a conception of but those who have heard -it. - -The country itself being an immense level, and very generally covered -with wood, presents a tiresome and gloomy uniformity to the eye; but -although Nature has denied to the inhabitants the beauties of romantic -landscapes, she has bestowed on them, with a liberal hand, the more -important blessings of fertility and abundance. A little attention to -cultivation procures a sufficiency of corn, the fields afford a rich -pasturage for cattle, and the natives are plentifully supplied with -excellent fish, both from the Gambia river and the Walli creek. - -The grains which are chiefly cultivated are—Indian corn (_zea mays_); two -kinds of _holcus spicatus_, called by the natives _soono_ and _sanio_; -_holcus niger_, and _holcus bicolor_, the former of which they have named -_bassi woolima_, and the latter _bassiqui_. These, together with rice, -are raised in considerable quantities; besides which, the inhabitants in -the vicinity of the towns and villages have gardens which produce onions, -calavances, yams, cassavi, ground nuts, pompions, gourds, water-melons, -and some other esculent plants. - -I observed likewise, near the towns, small patches of cotton and indigo. -The former of these articles supplies them with clothing, and with the -latter they dye their cloth of an excellent blue colour, in a manner that -will hereafter be described. - -In preparing their corn for food, the natives use a large wooden mortar -called a _paloon_, in which they bruise the seed until it parts with the -outer covering, or husk, which is then separated from the clean corn by -exposing it to the wind, nearly in the same manner as wheat is cleared -from the chaff in England. The corn thus freed from the husk is returned -to the mortar and beaten into meal, which is dressed variously in -different countries; but the most common preparation of it among the -nations of the Gambia is a sort of pudding which they call _kouskous_. -It is made by first moistening the flour with water, and then stirring -and shaking it about in a large calabash, or gourd, till it adheres -together in small granules resembling sago. It is then put into an -earthen pot, whose bottom is perforated with a number of small holes; and -this pot being placed upon another, the two vessels are luted together -either with a paste of meal and water, or with cows’ dung, and placed -upon the fire. In the lower vessel is commonly some animal food and -water, the steam or vapour of which ascends through the perforations in -the bottom of the upper vessel, and softens and the kouskous, which is -very much esteemed throughout all the countries that I visited. I am -informed that the same manner of preparing flour is very generally used -on the Barbary coast, and that the dish so prepared is there called by -the same name. It is therefore probable that the negroes borrowed the -practice from the Moors. - -Their domestic animals are nearly the same as in Europe. Swine are found -in the woods, but their flesh is not esteemed. Probably the marked -abhorrence in which this animal is held by the votaries of Mohammed has -spread itself among the pagans. Poultry of all kinds, the turkey -excepted, is everywhere to be had. The guinea-fowl and red partridge -abound in the fields, and the woods furnish a small species of antelope, -of which the venison is highly and deservedly prized. - -Of the other wild animals in the Mandingo countries, the most common are -the hyæna, the panther, and the elephant. Considering the use that is -made of the latter in the East Indies, it may be thought extraordinary -that the natives of Africa have not, in any part of this immense -continent, acquired the skill of taming this powerful and docile -creature, and applying his strength and faculties to the service of man. -When I told some of the natives that this was actually done in the -countries of the East, my auditors laughed me to scorn, and exclaimed, -“_Tobaubo fonnio_!” (“A white man’s lie!”) The negroes frequently find -means to destroy the elephant by firearms; they hunt it principally for -the sake of the teeth, which they transfer in barter to those who sell -them again to the Europeans. The flesh they eat, and consider it as a -great delicacy. - -On the 6th of October the waters of the Gambia were at the greatest -height, being fifteen feet above the high-water mark of the tide, after -which they began to subside, at first slowly, but afterwards very -rapidly, sometimes sinking more than a foot in twenty-four hours. By the -beginning of November the river had sunk to its former level, and the -tide ebbed and flowed as usual. When the river had subsided, and the -atmosphere grew dry, I recovered apace, and began to think of my -departure, for this is reckoned the most proper season for travelling. -The natives had completed their harvest, and provisions were everywhere -cheap and plentiful. - -Dr. Laidley was at this time employed in a trading voyage at Jonkakonda. -I wrote to him to desire that he would use his interest with the -_slatees_, or slave-merchants, to procure me the company and protection -of the first _coffle_ (or caravan) that might leave Gambia for the -interior country; and, in the meantime, I requested him to purchase for -me a horse and two asses. A few days afterwards the Doctor returned to -Pisania, and informed me that a coffle would certainly go for the -interior in the course of the dry season; but that, as many of the -merchants belonging to it had not yet completed their assortment of -goods, he could not say at what time they would set out. - -As the characters and dispositions of the slatees, and people that -composed the caravan, were entirely unknown to me—and as they seemed -rather averse to my purpose, and unwilling to enter into any positive -engagements on my account—and the time of their departure being withal -very uncertain, I resolved, on further deliberation, to avail myself of -the dry season, and proceed without them. - -Dr. Laidley approved my determination, and promised me every assistance -in his power to enable me to prosecute my journey with comfort and -safety. - -This resolution having been formed, I made preparations accordingly. - -And now, being about to take leave of my hospitable friend (whose -kindness and solicitude continued to the moment of my departure), and to -quit for many months the countries bordering on the Gambia, it seems -proper, before I proceed with my narrative, that I should in this place -give some account of the several negro nations which inhabit the banks of -this celebrated river, and the commercial intercourse that subsists -between them, and such of the nations of Europe as find their advantage -in trading to this part of Africa. The observations which have occurred -to me on both these subjects will be found in the following chapter. - - - - -CHAPTER II. -LANGUAGE AND RELIGION OF THE NATIVES. - - -THE natives of the countries bordering on the Gambia, though distributed -into a great many distinct governments, may, I think, be divided into -four great classes—the Feloops, the Jaloffs, the Foulahs, and the -Mandingoes. Among all these nations, the religion of Mohammed has made, -and continues to make, considerable progress; but in most of them the -body of the people, both free and enslaved, persevere in maintaining the -blind but harmless superstitions of their ancestors, and are called by -the Mohammedans _kafirs_, or infidels. - -Of the Feloops, I have little to add to what has been observed concerning -them in the former chapter. They are of a gloomy disposition, and are -supposed never to forgive an injury. They are even said to transmit -their quarrels as deadly feuds to their posterity, insomuch that a son -considers it as incumbent on him, from a just sense of filial obligation, -to become the avenger of his deceased father’s wrongs. If a man loses -his life in one of these sudden quarrels which perpetually occur at their -feasts, when the whole party is intoxicated with mead, his son, or the -eldest of his sons (if he has more than one), endeavours to procure his -father’s sandals, which he wears _once a year_, on the anniversary of his -father’s death, until a fit opportunity offers of revenging his fate, -when the object of his resentment seldom escapes his pursuit. This -fierce and unrelenting disposition is, however, counterbalanced by many -good qualities: they display the utmost gratitude and affection towards -their benefactors, and the fidelity with which they preserve whatever is -entrusted to them is remarkable. During the present war, they have more -than once taken up arms to defend our merchant vessels from French -privateers; and English property of considerable value has frequently -been left at Vintain for a long time entirely under the care of the -Feloops, who have uniformly manifested on such occasions the strictest -honesty and punctuality. How greatly is it to be wished that the minds -of a people so determined and faithful could be softened and civilised by -the mild and benevolent spirit of Christianity! - -The Jaloffs (or Yaloffs) are an active, powerful, and warlike race, -inhabiting great part of that tract which lies between the river Senegal -and the Mandingo states on the Gambia; yet they differ from the -Mandingoes not only in language, but likewise in complexion and features. -The noses of the Jaloffs are not so much depressed, nor the lips so -protuberant, as among the generality of Africans; and although their skin -is of the deepest black, they are considered by the white traders as the -most sightly negroes on this part of the continent. - -Their language is said to be copious and significant, and is often learnt -by Europeans trading to Senegal. - -The Foulahs (or Pholeys), such of them at least as reside near the -Gambia, are chiefly of a tawny complexion, with soft silky hair, and -pleasing features. They are much attached to a pastoral life, and have -introduced themselves into all the kingdoms on the windward coast as -herdsmen and husbandmen, paying a tribute to the sovereign of the country -for the lands which they hold. Not having many opportunities, however, -during my residence at Pisania, of improving my acquaintance with these -people, I defer entering at large into their character until a fitter -occasion occurs, which will present itself when I come to Bondou. - -The Mandingoes, of whom it remains to speak, constitute, in truth, the -bulk of the inhabitants in all those districts of Africa which I visited; -and their language, with a few exceptions, is universally understood and -very generally spoken in that part of the continent. - -They are called Mandingoes, I conceive, as having originally migrated -from the interior state of Manding, of which some account will hereafter -be given. - -In every considerable town there is a chief magistrate, called the -_alkaid_, whose office is hereditary, and whose business it is to -preserve order, to levy duties on travellers, and to preside at all -conferences in the exercise of local jurisdiction and the administration -of justice. These courts are composed of the elders of the town (of free -condition), and are termed _palavers_; and their proceedings are -conducted in the open air with sufficient solemnity. Both sides of a -question are freely canvassed, witnesses are publicly examined, and the -decisions which follow generally meet with the approbation of the -surrounding audience. - -As the negroes have no written language of their own, the general rule of -decision is an appeal to _ancient custom_; but since the system of -Mohammed has made so great progress among them, the converts to that -faith have gradually introduced, with the religious tenets, many of the -civil institutions of the prophet; and where the Koran is not found -sufficiently explicit, recourse is had to a commentary called _Al -Sharra_, containing, as I was told, a complete exposition or digest of -the Mohammedan laws, both civil and criminal, properly arranged and -illustrated. - -This frequency of appeal to written laws, with which the pagan natives -are necessarily unacquainted, has given rise in their palavers to (what I -little expected to find in Africa) professional advocates, or expounders -of the law, who are allowed to appear and to plead for plaintiff or -defendant, much in the same manner as counsel in the law-courts of Great -Britain. They are Mohammedan negroes, who have made, or affect to have -made, the laws of the prophet their peculiar study; and if I may judge -from their harangues, which I frequently attended, I believe, that in the -forensic qualifications of procrastination and cavil, and the arts of -confounding and perplexing a cause, they are not always surpassed by the -ablest pleaders in Europe. While I was at Pisania, a cause was heard -which furnished the Mohammedan lawyers with an admirable opportunity of -displaying their professional dexterity. The case was this:—An ass -belonging to a Serawoolli negro (a native of an interior country near the -river Senegal) had broke into a field of corn belonging to one of the -Mandingo inhabitants, and destroyed great part of it. The Mandingo -having caught the animal in his field, immediately drew his knife and cut -his throat. The Serawoolli thereupon called a _palaver_ (or in European -terms, _brought an action_) to recover damages for the loss of his beast, -on which he set a high value. The defendant confessed he had killed the -ass, but pleaded a _set-off_, insisting that the loss he had sustained by -the ravage in his corn was equal to the sum demanded for the animal. To -ascertain this fact was the point at issue, and the learned advocates -contrived to puzzle the cause in such a manner that, after a hearing of -three days, the court broke up without coming to any determination upon -it; and a second palaver was, I suppose, thought necessary. - -The Mandingoes, generally speaking, are of a mild, sociable, and obliging -disposition. The men are commonly above the middle size, well-shaped, -strong, and capable of enduring great labour. The women are -good-natured, sprightly, and agreeable. The dress of both sexes is -composed of cotton cloth of their own manufacture: that of the men is a -loose frock, not unlike a surplice, with drawers which reach half-way -down the leg; and they wear sandals on their feet, and white cotton caps -on their heads. The women’s dress consists of two pieces of cloth, each -of which is about six feet long and three broad. One of these they wrap -round their waist, which, hanging down to the ankles, answers the purpose -of a petticoat; the other is thrown negligently over the bosom and -shoulders. - -This account of their clothing is indeed nearly applicable to the natives -of all the different countries in this part of Africa; a peculiar -national mode is observable only in the head-dresses of the women. - -Thus, in the countries of the Gambia, the females wear a sort of bandage, -which they call _jalla_. It is a narrow strip of cotton cloth wrapped -many times round, immediately over the forehead. In Bondou, the head is -encircled with strings of white beads, and a small plate of gold is worn -in the middle of the forehead. In Kasson the ladies decorate their heads -in a very tasteful and elegant manner with white seashells. In Kaarta -and Ludamar, the women raise their hair to a great height by the addition -of a pad (as the ladies did formerly in Great Britain), which they -decorate with a species of coral brought from the Red Sea by pilgrims -returning from Mecca, and sold at a great price. - -In the construction of their dwelling-houses the Mandingoes also conform -to the general practice of the African nations in this part of the -continent, contenting themselves with small and incommodious hovels. A -circular mud wall, about four feet high, upon which is placed a conical -roof, composed of the bamboo cane, and thatched with grass, forms alike -the palace of the king and the hovel of the slave. Their household -furniture is equally simple. A hurdle of canes placed upon upright -sticks, about two feet from the ground, upon which is spread a mat or -bullock’s hide, answers the purpose of a bed; a water jar, some earthen -pots for dressing their food; a few wooden bowls and calabashes, and one -or two low stools, compose the rest. - -As every man of free condition has a plurality of wives, it is found -necessary (to prevent, I suppose, matrimonial disputes) that each of the -ladies should be accommodated with a hut to herself; and all the huts -belonging to the same family are surrounded by a fence constructed of -bamboo canes, split and formed into a sort of wicker-work. The whole -enclosure is called a _sirk_, or _surk_. A number of these enclosures, -with narrow passages between them, form what is called a town; but the -huts are generally placed without any regularity, according to the -caprice of the owner. The only rule that seems to be attended to is -placing the door towards the south-west, in order to admit the -sea-breeze. - -In each town is a large stage called the _bentang_, which answers the -purpose of a public hall or town house. It is composed of interwoven -canes, and is generally sheltered from the sun by being erected in the -shade of some large tree. It is here that all public affairs are -transacted and trials conducted; and here the lazy and indolent meet to -smoke their pipes, and hear the news of the day. In most of the towns -the Mohammedans have also a _missura_, or mosque, in which they assemble -and offer up their daily prayers, according to the rules of the Koran. - -In the account which I have thus given of the natives, the reader must -bear in mind that my observations apply chiefly to persons of _free -condition_, who constitute, I suppose, not more than one-fourth part of -the inhabitants at large. The other three-fourths are in a state of -hopeless and hereditary slavery, and are employed in cultivating the -land, in the care of cattle, and in servile offices of all kinds, much in -the same manner as the slaves in the West Indies. I was told, however, -that the Mandingo master can neither deprive his slave of life, nor sell -him to a stranger, without first calling a palaver on his conduct, or in -other words, bringing him to a public trial. But this degree of -protection is extended only to the native or domestic slave. Captives -taken in war, and those unfortunate victims who are condemned to slavery -for crimes or insolvency—and, in short, all those unhappy people who are -brought down from the interior countries for sale—have no security -whatever, but may be treated and disposed of in all respects as the owner -thinks proper. It sometimes happens, indeed, when no ships are on the -coast, that a humane and considerate master incorporates his purchased -slaves among his domestics; and their offspring at least, if not the -parents, become entitled to all the privileges of the native class. - -The earliest European establishment on this celebrated river was a -factory of the Portuguese, and to this must be ascribed the introduction -of the numerous words of that language which are still in use among the -negroes. The Dutch, French, and English afterwards successively -possessed themselves of settlements on the coast; but the trade of the -Gambia became, and continued for many years, a sort of monopoly in the -hands of the English. In the travels of Francis Moore is preserved an -account of the Royal African Company’s establishments in this river in -the year 1730; at which the James’s factory alone consisted of a -governor, deputy-governor, and two other principal officers; eight -factors, thirteen writers, twenty inferior attendants and tradesmen; a -company of soldiers, and thirty-two negro servants; besides sloops, -shallops, and boats, with their crews; and there were no less than eight -subordinate factories in other parts of the river. - -The trade with Europe, by being afterwards laid open, was almost -annihilated. The share which the subjects of England at this time hold -in it supports not more than two or three annual ships; and I am informed -that the gross value of British exports is under £20,000. The French and -Danes still maintain a small share, and the Americans have lately sent a -few vessels to the Gambia by way of experiment. - -The commodities exported to the Gambia from Europe consist chiefly of -firearms and ammunition, iron-ware, spirituous liquors, tobacco, cotton -caps, a small quantity of broadcloth, and a few articles of the -manufacture of Manchester; a small assortment of India goods, with some -glass beads, amber, and other trifles, for which are taken in exchange -slaves, gold dust, ivory, beeswax, and hides. Slaves are the chief -article, but the whole number which at this time are annually exported -from the Gambia by all nations is supposed to be under one thousand. - -Most of these unfortunate victims are brought to the coast in periodical -caravans; many of them from very remote inland countries, for the -language which they speak is not understood by the inhabitants of the -maritime districts. In a subsequent part of my work I shall give the -best information I have been able to collect concerning the manner in -which they are obtained. On their arrival at the coast, if no immediate -opportunity offers of selling them to advantage, they are distributed -among the neighbouring villages, until a slave ship arrives, or until -they can be sold to black traders, who sometimes purchase on speculation. -In the meanwhile, the poor wretches are kept constantly fettered, two and -two of them being chained together, and employed in the labours of the -field, and, I am sorry to add, are very scantily fed, as well as harshly -treated. The price of a slave varies according to the number of -purchasers from Europe, and the arrival of caravans from the interior; -but in general I reckon that a young and healthy male, from sixteen to -twenty-five years of age, may be estimated on the spot from £18 to £20 -sterling. - -The negro slave-merchants, as I have observed in the former chapter, are -called slatees, who, besides slaves, and the merchandise which they bring -for sale to the whites, supply the inhabitants of the maritime districts -with native iron, sweet-smelling gums and frankincense, and a commodity -called _shea-toulou_, which, literally translated, signifies -_tree-butter_. - -In payment of these articles, the maritime states supply the interior -countries with salt, a scarce and valuable commodity, as I frequently and -painfully experienced in the course of my journey. Considerable -quantities of this article, however, are also supplied to the inland -natives by the Moors, who obtain it from the salt pits in the Great -Desert, and receive in return corn, cotton cloth, and slaves. - -In their early intercourse with Europeans the article that attracted most -notice was iron. Its utility, in forming the instruments of war and -husbandry, make it preferable to all others, and iron soon became the -measure by which the value of all other commodities was ascertained. -Thus, a certain quantity of goods, of whatever denomination, appearing to -be equal in value to a bar of iron, constituted, in the traders’ -phraseology, a bar of that particular merchandise. Twenty leaves of -tobacco, for instance, were considered as a bar of tobacco; and a gallon -of spirits (or rather half spirits and half water) as a bar of rum, a bar -of one commodity being reckoned equal in value to a bar of another -commodity. - -As, however, it must unavoidably happen that, according to the plenty or -scarcity of goods at market in proportion to the demand, the relative -value would be subject to continual fluctuation, greater precision has -been found necessary; and at this time the current value of a single bar -of any kind is fixed by the whites at two shillings sterling. Thus, a -slave whose price is £15, is said to be worth 150 bars. - -In transactions of this nature it is obvious that the white trader has -infinitely the advantage over the African, whom, therefore, it is -difficult to satisfy, for conscious of his own ignorance, he naturally -becomes exceedingly suspicious and wavering; and, indeed, so very -unsettled and jealous are the negroes in their dealings with the whites, -that a bargain is never considered by the European as concluded until the -purchase money is paid and the party has taken leave. - -Having now brought together such general observations on the country and -its inhabitants as occurred to me during my residence in the vicinity of -the Gambia, I shall detain the reader no longer with introductory matter, -but proceed, in the next chapter, to a regular detail of the incidents -which happened, and the reflections which arose in my mind, in the course -of my painful and perilous journey, from its commencement until my return -to the Gambia. - - - - -CHAPTER III. -THE KINGDOM OF WOOLLI—JOURNEY TO BONDOU. - - -ON the 2nd of December, 1795, I took my departure from the hospitable -mansion of Dr. Laidley. I was fortunately provided with a negro servant -who spoke both the English and Mandingo tongues. His name was Johnson. -He was a native of this part of Africa, and having in his youth been -conveyed to Jamaica as a slave, he had been made free, and taken to -England by his master, where he had resided many years, and at length -found his way back to his native country. As he was known to Dr. -Laidley, the Doctor recommended him to me, and I hired him as my -interpreter, at the rate of ten bars monthly to be paid to himself, and -five bars a month to be paid to his wife during his absence. Dr. Laidley -furthermore provided me with a negro boy of his own, named Demba, a -sprightly youth, who, besides Mandingo, spoke the language of the -Serawoollies, an inland people (of whom mention will hereafter be made) -residing on the banks of the Senegal; and to induce him to behave well, -the Doctor promised him his freedom on his return, in case I should -report favourably of his fidelity and services. I was furnished with a -horse for myself (a small but very hardy and spirited beast, which cost -me to the value of £7 10s), and two asses for my interpreter and servant. -My baggage was light, consisting chiefly of provisions for two days; a -small assortment of beads, amber, and tobacco, for the purchase of a -fresh supply as I proceeded; a few changes of linen, and other necessary -apparel; an umbrella, a pocket sextant, a magnetic compass, and a -thermometer; together with two fowling-pieces, two pair of pistols, and -some other small articles. - -A free man (a _bashreen_, or Mohammedan) named Madiboo, who was -travelling to the kingdom of Bambara, and two slatees, or slave -merchants, of the Serawoolli nation, and of the same sect, who were going -to Bondou, offered their services, as far as they intended respectively -to proceed, as did likewise a negro named Tami (also a Mohammedan), a -native of Kasson, who had been employed some years by Dr. Laidley as a -blacksmith, and was returning to his native country with the savings of -his labours. All these men travelled on foot, driving their asses before -them. - -Thus I had no less than six attendants, all of whom had been taught to -regard me with great respect, and to consider that their safe return -hereafter to the countries on the Gambia would depend on my preservation. - -Dr. Laidley himself, and Messrs. Ainsley, with a number of their -domestics, kindly determined to accompany me the first two days; and I -believe they secretly thought they should never see me afterwards. - -We reached Jindey the same day, having crossed the Walli creek, a branch -of the Gambia, and rested at the house of a black woman, who had formerly -been the paramour of a white trader named Hewett, and who, in consequence -thereof, was called, by way of distinction, _seniora_. In the evening we -walked out to see an adjoining village, belonging to a slatee named -Jemaffoo Momadoo, the richest of all the Gambia traders. We found him at -home, and he thought so highly of the honour done him by this visit, that -he presented us with a fine bullock, which was immediately killed, and -part of it dressed for our evening’s repast. - -The negroes do not go to supper till late, and, in order to amuse -ourselves while our beef was preparing, a Mandingo was desired to relate -some diverting stories, in listening to which, and smoking tobacco, we -spent three hours. These stories bear some resemblance to those in the -Arabian Nights’ Entertainments, but, in general, are of a more ludicrous -cast. - -About one o’clock in the afternoon of the 3rd of December, I took my -leave of Dr. Laidley and Messrs. Ainsley, and rode slowly into the woods. -I had now before me a boundless forest, and a country, the inhabitants of -which were strangers to civilised life, and to most of whom a white man -was the object of curiosity or plunder. I reflected that I had parted -from the last European I might probably behold, and perhaps quitted for -ever the comforts of Christian society. Thoughts like these would -necessarily cast a gloom over my mind; and I rode musing along for about -three miles, when I was awakened from my reverie by a body of people, who -came running up, and stopped the asses, giving me to understand that I -must go with them to Peckaba, to present myself to the king of Walli, or -pay customs to them. I endeavoured to make them comprehend that the -object of my journey not being traffic, I ought not to be subjected to a -tax like the slatees, and other merchants, who travel for gain; but I -reasoned to no purpose. They said it was usual for travellers of all -descriptions to make a present to the king of Walli, and without doing so -I could not be permitted to proceed. As they were more numerous than my -attendants, and withal very noisy, I thought it prudent to comply with -their demand; and having presented them with four bars of tobacco, for -the king’s use, I was permitted to continue my journey, and at sunset -reached a village near Kootacunda, where we rested for the night. - -In the morning of December 4th I passed Kootacunda, the last town of -Walli, and stopped about an hour at a small adjoining village to pay -customs to an officer of the king of Woolli; we rested the ensuing night -at a village called Tabajang; and at noon the next day (December 5th) we -reached Medina, the capital of the king of Woolli’s dominions. - -The kingdom of Woolli is bounded by Walli on the west, by the Gambia on -the south, by the small river Walli on the north-west, by Bondou on the -north-east, and on the east by the Simbani wilderness. - -The inhabitants are Mandingoes, and, like most of the Mandingo nations, -are divided into two great sects—the Mohammedans, who are called -_bushreens_, and the pagans, who are called indiscriminately _kafirs_ -(unbelievers) and _sonakies_ (_i.e._, men who drink strong liquors). The -pagan natives are by far the most numerous, and the government of the -country is in their hands; for though the most respectable among the -bushreens are frequently consulted in affairs of importance, yet they are -never permitted to take any share in the executive government, which -rests solely in the hands of the _mansa_, or sovereign, and great -officers of the state. Of these, the first in point of rank is the -presumptive heir of the crown, who is called the _farbanna_. Next to him -are the _alkaids_, or provincial governors, who are more frequently -called _keamos_. Then follow the two grand divisions of free-men and -slaves; of the former, the slatees, so frequently mentioned in the -preceding pages, are considered as the principal; but, in all classes, -great respect is paid to the authority of aged men. - -On the death of the reigning monarch, his eldest son (if he has attained -the age of manhood) succeeds to the regal authority. If there is no son, -or if the son is under the age of discretion, a meeting of the great men -is held, and the late monarch’s nearest relation (commonly his brother) -is called to the government, not as regent, or guardian to the infant -son, but in full right, and to the exclusion of the minor. The charges -of the government are defrayed by occasional tributes from the people, -and by duties on goods transported across the country. Travellers, on -going from the Gambia towards the interior, pay customs in European -merchandise. On returning, they pay in iron and _shea-toulou_. These -taxes are paid at every town. - -Medina, the capital of the kingdom, at which I was now arrived, is a -place of considerable extent, and may contain from eight hundred to one -thousand houses. It is fortified in the common African manner, by a -surrounding high wall built of clay, and an outward fence of pointed -stakes and prickly bushes; but the walls are neglected, and the outward -fence has suffered considerably from the active hands of busy housewives, -who pluck up the stakes for firewood. I obtained a lodging at one of the -king’s near relations, who apprised me that at my introduction to the -king I must not presume to _shake hands with him_. “It was not usual,” -he said, “to allow this liberty to strangers.” Thus instructed, I went -in the afternoon to pay my respects to the sovereign, and ask permission -to pass through his territories to Bondou. The king’s name was Jatta. -He was the same venerable old man of whom so favourable an account was -transmitted by Major Houghton. I found him seated upon a mat before the -door of his hut; a number of men and women were arranged on each side, -who were singing and clapping their hands. I saluted him respectfully, -and informed him of the purport of my visit. The king graciously -replied, that he not only gave me leave to pass through his country, but -would offer up his prayers for my safety. On this, one of my attendants, -seemingly in return for the king’s condescension, began to sing, or -rather to roar an Arabic song, at every pause of which the king himself, -and all the people present, struck their hands against their foreheads, -and exclaimed, with devout and affecting solemnity, “_Amen_, _amen_!” -The king told me, furthermore, that I should have a guide the day -following, who would conduct me safely to the frontier of his kingdom—I -then took my leave, and in the evening sent the king an order upon Dr. -Laidley for three gallons of rum, and received in return great store of -provisions. - -_December_ 6.—Early in the morning I went to the king a second time, to -learn if the guide was ready. I found his Majesty seated upon a -bullock’s hide, warming himself before a large fire, for the Africans are -sensible of the smallest variation in the temperature of the air, and -frequently complain of cold when a European is oppressed with heat. He -received me with a benevolent countenance, and tenderly entreated me to -desist from my purpose of travelling into the interior, telling me that -Major Houghton had been killed in his route, and that if I followed his -footsteps I should probably meet with his fate. He said that I must not -judge of the people of the eastern country by those of Woolli: that the -latter were acquainted with white men, and respected them, whereas the -people of the east had never seen a white man, and would certainly -destroy me. I thanked the king for his affectionate solicitude, but told -him that I had considered the matter, and was determined, notwithstanding -all dangers, to proceed. The king shook his head, but desisted from -further persuasion, and told me the guide should be ready in the -afternoon. - -About two o’clock, the guide appearing, I went and took my last farewell -of the good old king, and in three hours reached Konjour, a small -village, where we determined to rest for the night. Here I purchased a -fine sheep for some beads, and my Serawoolli attendants killed it with -all the ceremonies prescribed by their religion. Part of it was dressed -for supper, after which a dispute arose between one of the Serawoolli -negroes, and Johnson, my interpreter, about the sheep’s horns. The -former claimed the horns as his perquisite, for having acted the part of -our butcher, and Johnson contested the claim. I settled the matter by -giving a horn to each of them. This trifling incident is mentioned as -introductory to what follows, for it appeared on inquiry that these horns -were highly valued, as being easily convertible into portable sheaths, or -cases, for containing and keeping secure certain charms or amulets called -_saphies_, which the negroes constantly wear about them. These saphies -are prayers, or rather sentences, from the Koran, which the Mohammedan -priests write on scraps of paper, and sell to the simple natives, who -consider them to possess very extraordinary virtues. Some of the negroes -wear them to guard themselves against the bite of snakes or alligators; -and on this occasion the saphie is commonly enclosed in a snake’s or -alligator’s skin, and tied round the ankle. Others have recourse to them -in time of war, to protect their persons against hostile weapons; but the -common use to which these amulets are applied is to prevent or cure -bodily diseases—to preserve from hunger and thirst—and generally to -conciliate the favour of superior powers, under all the circumstances and -occurrences of life. {41} - -In this case it is impossible not to admire the wonderful contagion of -superstition, for, notwithstanding that the majority of the negroes are -pagans, and absolutely reject the doctrines of Mohammed, I did not meet -with a man, whether a bushreen or kafir, who was not fully persuaded of -the powerful efficacy of these amulets. The truth is, that all the -natives of this part of Africa consider the art of writing as bordering -on magic; and it is not in the doctrines of the prophet, but in the arts -of the magician, that their confidence is placed. It will hereafter be -seen that I was myself lucky enough, in circumstances of distress, to -turn the popular credulity in this respect to good account. - -On the 7th I departed from Konjour, and slept at a village called Malla -(or Mallaing), and on the 8th about noon I arrived at Kolor, a -considerable town, near the entrance into which I observed, hanging upon -a tree, a sort of masquerade habit, made of the bark of trees, which I -was told, on inquiry, belonged to _Mumbo Jumbo_. This is a strange -bugbear, common to all the Mandingo towns, and much employed by the pagan -natives in keeping their women in subjection; for as the kafirs are not -restricted in the number of their wives, every one marries as many as he -can conveniently maintain—and as it frequently happens that the ladies -disagree among themselves, family quarrels sometimes rise to such a -height, that the authority of the husband can no longer preserve peace in -his household. In such cases, the interposition of Mumbo Jumbo is called -in, and is always decisive. - -This strange minister of justice (who is supposed to be either the -husband himself, or some person instructed by him), disguised in the -dress that has been mentioned, and armed with the rod of public -authority, announces his coming (whenever his services are required) by -loud and dismal screams in the woods near the town. He begins the -pantomime at the approach of night; and as soon as it is dark he enters -the town, and proceeds to the bentang, at which all the inhabitants -immediately assemble. - -_December_ 9.—As there was no water to be procured on the road, we -travelled with great expedition until we reached Tambacunda; and -departing from thence early the next morning, the 10th, we reached in the -evening Kooniakary, a town of nearly the same magnitude as Kolor. About -noon on the 11th we arrived at Koojar, the frontier town of Woolli, -towards Bondou, from which it is separated by an intervening wilderness -of two days’ journey. - -The guide appointed by the king of Woolli being now to return, I -presented him with some amber for his trouble; and having been informed -that it was not possible at all times to procure water in the wilderness, -I made inquiry for men who would serve both as guides and water-bearers -during my journey across it. Three negroes, elephant-hunters, offered -their services for these purposes, which I accepted, and paid them three -bars each in advance; and the day being far spent, I determined to pass -the night in my present quarters. - -The inhabitants of Koojar, though not wholly unaccustomed to the sight of -Europeans (most of them having occasionally visited the countries on the -Gambia), beheld me with a mixture of curiosity and reverence, and in the -evening invited me to see a _neobering_, or wrestling-match, at the -bentang. This is an exhibition very common in all the Mandingo -countries. The spectators arranged themselves in a circle, leaving the -intermediate space for the wrestlers, who were strong active young men, -full of emulation, and accustomed, I suppose, from their infancy to this -sort of exertion. Being stripped of their clothing, except a short pair -of drawers, and having their skin anointed with oil, or _shea_ butter, -the combatants approached each other on all-fours, parrying with, and -occasionally extending a hand for some time, till at length one of them -sprang forward, and caught his rival by the knee. Great dexterity and -judgment were now displayed, but the contest was decided by superior -strength; and I think that few Europeans would have been able to cope -with the conqueror. It must not be unobserved, that the combatants were -animated by the music of a drum, by which their actions were in some -measure regulated. - -The wrestling was succeeded by a dance, in which many performers -assisted, all of whom were provided with little bells, which were -fastened to their legs and arms; and here, too, the drum regulated their -motions. It was beaten with a crooked stick, which the drummer held in -his right hand, occasionally using his left to deaden the sound, and thus -vary the music. The drama is likewise applied on these occasions to keep -order among the spectators, by imitating the sound of certain Mandingo -sentences. For example, when the wrestling-match is about to begin, the -drummer strikes what is understood to signify _ali bæ see_ (sit all -down), upon which the spectators immediately seat themselves; and when -the combatants are to begin, he strikes _amuta_! _amuta_! (take hold! -take hold!) - -In the course of the evening I was presented, by way of refreshment, with -a liquor, which tasted so much like the strong beer of my native country -(and very good beer too), as to induce me to inquire into its -composition; and I learnt, with some degree of surprise, that it was -actually made from corn which had been previously malted, much in the -same manner as barley is malted in Great Britain. A root yielding a -grateful bitter was used in lieu of hops, the name of which I have -forgotten; but the corn which yields the wort is the _holcus spicatus_ of -botanists. - -Early in the morning (the 12th) I found that one of the elephant-hunters -had absconded with the money he had received from me in part of wages; -and in order to prevent the other two from following his example, I made -them instantly fill their calabashes (or gourds) with water; and as the -sun rose, I entered the wilderness that separates the kingdoms of Woolli -and Bondou. - -We continued our journey without stopping any more until noon, when we -came to a large tree, called by the natives _neema taba_. It had a very -singular appearance, being decorated with innumerable rags or scraps of -cloth, which persons travelling across the wilderness had at different -times tied to the branches, probably at first to inform the traveller -that water was to be found near it; but the custom has been so greatly -sanctioned by time, that nobody now presumes to pass without hanging up -something. I followed the example, and suspended a handsome piece of -cloth on one of the boughs; and being told that either a well, or pool of -water, was at no great distance, I ordered the negroes to unload the -asses, that we might give them corn, and regale ourselves with the -provisions we had brought. In the meantime, I sent one of the -elephant-hunters to look for the well, intending, if water was to be -obtained, to rest here for the night. A pool was found, but the water -was thick and muddy, and the negro discovered near it the remains of a -fire recently extinguished, and the fragments of provisions, which -afforded a proof that it had been lately visited, either by travellers or -banditti. The fears of my attendants supposed the latter; and believing -that robbers lurked near as, I was persuaded to change my resolution of -resting here all night, and proceed to another watering-place, which I -was assured we might reach early in the evening. - -We departed accordingly, but it was eight o’clock at night before we came -to the watering-place; and being now sufficiently fatigued with so long a -day’s journey, we kindled a large fire and lay down, surrounded by our -cattle, on the bare ground, more than a gunshot from any bush, the -negroes agreeing to keep watch by turns to prevent surprise. - -I know not, indeed, that any danger was justly to be dreaded, but the -negroes were unaccountably apprehensive of banditti during the whole of -the journey. As soon, therefore, as daylight appeared, we filled our -_soofroos_ (skins) and calabashes at the pool, and set out for Tallika, -the first town in Bondou, which we reached about eleven o’clock in the -forenoon (the 13th of December). - - - - -CHAPTER IV. -FROM TALLIKA TO KAJAAGA. - - -TALLIKA, the frontier town of Bondou towards Woolli, is inhabited chiefly -by Foulahs of the Mohammedan religion, who live in considerable -affluence, partly by furnishing provisions to the coffles, or caravans, -that pass through the town, and partly by the sale of ivory, obtained by -hunting elephants, in which employment the young men are generally very -successful. Here an officer belonging to the king of Bondou constantly -resides, whose business it is to give timely information of the arrival -of the caravans, which are taxed according to the number of loaded asses -that arrive at Tallika. - -I took up my residence at this officer’s house, and agreed with him to -accompany me to Fatteconda, the residence of the king, for which he was -to receive five bars; and before my departure I wrote a few lines to Dr. -Laidley, and gave my letter to the master of a caravan bound for the -Gambia. This caravan consisted of nine or ten people, with five asses -loaded with ivory. The large teeth are conveyed in nets, two on each -side of the ass; the small ones are wrapped up in skins, and secured with -ropes. - -_December_ 14.—We left Tallika, and rode on very peaceably for about two -miles, when a violent quarrel arose between two of my fellow-travellers, -one of whom was the blacksmith, in the course of which they bestowed some -opprobrious terms upon each other; and it is worthy of remark, that an -African will sooner forgive a blow than a term of reproach applied to his -ancestors. “Strike me, but do not curse my mother,” is a common -expression even among the slaves. This sort of abuse, therefore, so -enraged one of the disputants, that he drew his cutlass upon the -blacksmith, and would certainly have ended the dispute in a very serious -manner, if the others had not laid hold of him and wrested the cutlass -from him. I was obliged to interfere, and put an end to this -disagreeable business by desiring the blacksmith to be silent, and -telling the other, who I thought was in the wrong, that if he attempted -in future to draw his cutlass, or molest any of my attendants, I should -look upon him as a robber, and shoot him without further ceremony. This -threat had the desired effect, and we marched sullenly along till the -afternoon, when we arrived at a number of small villages scattered over -an open and fertile plain. At one of these, called Ganado, we took up -our residence for the night; here an exchange of presents and a good -supper terminated all animosities among my attendants, and the night was -far advanced before any of us thought of going to sleep. We were amused -by an itinerant _singing man_, who told a number of diverting stories, -and played some sweet airs by blowing his breath upon a bow-string, and -striking it at the same time with a stick. - -_December_ 15.—At daybreak my fellow-travellers, the Serawoollies, took -leave of me, with many prayers for my safety. About a mile from Ganado -we crossed a considerable branch of the Gambia, called Neriko. The banks -were steep and covered with mimosas; and I observed in the mud a number -of large mussels, but the natives do not eat them. About noon, the sun -being exceedingly hot, we rested two hours in the shade of a tree, and -purchased some milk and pounded corn from some Foulah herdsmen, and at -sunset reached a town called Koorkarany, where the blacksmith had some -relations; and here we rested two days. - -Koorkarany is a Mohammedan town surrounded by a high wall, and is -provided with a mosque. Here I was shown a number of Arabic manuscripts, -particularly a copy of the book before mentioned, called _Al Sharra_. -The _maraboo_, or priest, in whose possession it was, read and explained -to me in Mandingo many of the most remarkable passages, and, in return, I -showed him Richardson’s Arabic Grammar, which he very much admired. - -On the evening of the second day (December 17) we departed from -Koorkarany. We were joined by a young man who was travelling to -Fatteconda for salt; and as night set in we reached Dooggi, a small -village about three miles from Koorkarany. - -Provisions were here so cheap that I purchased a bullock for six small -stones of amber; for I found my company increase or diminish according to -the good fare they met with. - -_December_ 18.—Early in the morning we departed from Dooggi, and, being -joined by a number of Foulahs and other people, made a formidable -appearance, and were under no apprehension of being plundered in the -woods. About eleven o’clock, one of the asses proving very refractory, -the negroes took a curious method to make him tractable. They cut a -forked stick, and putting the forked part into the ass’s mouth, like the -bit of a bridle, tied the two smaller parts together above his head, -leaving the lower part of the stick of sufficient length to strike -against the ground, if the ass should attempt to put his head down. -After this the ass walked along quietly and gravely enough, taking care, -after some practice, to hold his head sufficiently high to prevent stones -or roots of trees from striking against the end of the stick, which -experience had taught him would give a severe shock to his teeth. This -contrivance produced a ludicrous appearance, but my fellow-travellers -told me it was constantly adopted by the slatees, and always proved -effectual. - -In the evening we arrived at a few scattered villages, surrounded with -extensive cultivation, at one of which, called Buggil, we passed the -night in a miserable hut, having no other bed than a bundle of -corn-stalks, and no provisions but what we brought with us. The wells -here are dug with great ingenuity, and are very deep. I measured one of -the bucket-ropes, and found the depth of the well to be twenty-eight -fathoms. - -_December_ 19.—We departed from Buggil, and travelled along a dry, stony -height, covered with mimosas, till mid-day, when the land sloped towards -the east, and we descended into a deep valley, in which I observed -abundance of whinstone and white quartz. Pursuing our course to the -eastward, along this valley in the bed of an exhausted river-course, we -came to a large village, where we intended to lodge. We found many of -the natives dressed in a thin French gauze, which they called _byqui_; -this being a light airy dress, and well calculated to display the shape -of their persons, is much esteemed by the ladies. The manners of these -females, however, did not correspond with their dress, for they were rude -and troublesome in the highest degree; they surrounded me in numbers, -begging for amber, beads, &c., and were so vehement in their -solicitations, that I found it impossible to resist them. They tore my -cloak, cut the buttons from my boy’s clothes, and were proceeding to -other outrages, when I mounted my horse and rode off, followed for -half-a-mile by a body of these harpies. - -In the evening we reached Soobrudooka, and as my company was numerous -(being fourteen), I purchased a sheep and abundance of corn for supper; -after which we lay down by the bundles, and passed an uncomfortable night -in a heavy dew. - -_December_ 20.—We departed from Soobrudooka, and at two o’clock reached a -large village situated on the banks of the Falemé river, which is here -rapid and rocky. The natives were employed in fishing in various ways. -The large fish were taken in long baskets made of split cane, and placed -in a strong current, which was created by walls of stone built across the -stream, certain open places being left, through which the water rushed -with great force. Some of these baskets were more than twenty feet long, -and when once the fish had entered one of them, the force of the stream -prevented it from returning. The small fish were taken in great numbers -in hand-nets, which the natives weave of cotton, and use with great -dexterity. The fish last mentioned are about the size of sprats, and are -prepared for sale in different ways; the most common is by pounding them -entire as they come from the stream, in a wooden mortar, and exposing -them to dry in the sun, in large lumps like sugar loaves. It may be -supposed that the smell is not very agreeable; but in the Moorish -countries to the north of the Senegal, where fish is scarcely known, this -preparation is esteemed as a luxury, and sold to considerable advantage. -The manner of using it by the natives is by dissolving a piece of this -black loaf in boiling water, and mixing it with their kouskous. - -On returning to the village, after an excursion to the river-side to -inspect the fishery, an old Moorish shereef came to bestow his blessing -upon me, and beg some paper to write saphies upon. This man had seen -Major Houghton in the kingdom of Kaarta, and told me that he died in the -country of the Moors. - -About three in the afternoon we continued our course along the bank of -the river to the northward, till eight o’clock, when we reached Nayemow. -Here the hospitable master of the town received us kindly, and presented -us with a bullock. In return I gave him some amber and beads. - -_December_ 21.—In the morning, having agreed for a canoe to carry over my -bundles, I crossed the river, which came up to my knees as I sat on my -horse; but the water is so clear, that from the high bank the bottom is -visible all the way over. - -About noon we entered Fatteconda, the capital of Bondou, and in a little -time received an invitation to the house of a respectable slatee: for as -there are no public-houses in Africa, it is customary for strangers to -stand at the bentang, or some other place of public resort, till they are -invited to a lodging by some of the inhabitants. We accepted the offer; -and in an hour afterwards a person came and told me that he was sent on -purpose to conduct me to the king, who was very desirous of seeing me -immediately, if I was not too much fatigued. - -I took my interpreter with me, and followed the messenger till we got -quite out of the town, and crossed some corn-fields; when, suspecting -some trick, I stopped, and asked the guide whither he was going. Upon -which, he pointed to a man sitting under a tree at some little distance, -and told me that the king frequently gave audience in that retired -manner, in order to avoid a crowd of people, and that nobody but myself -and my interpreter must approach him. When I advanced the king desired -me to come and sit by him upon the mat; and, after hearing my story, on -which be made no observation, he asked if I wished to purchase any slaves -or gold. Being answered in the negative, he seemed rather surprised, but -desired me to come to him in the evening, and he would give me some -provisions. - -This monarch was called Almami, a Moorish name, though I was told that he -was not a Mohammedan, but a kafir or pagan. I had heard that he had -acted towards Major Houghton with great unkindness, and caused him to be -plundered. His behaviour, therefore, towards myself at this interview, -though much more civil than I expected, was far from freeing me from -uneasiness. I still apprehended some double-dealing; and as I was now -entirely in his power, I thought it best to smooth the way by a present. -Accordingly, I took with me in the evening one canister of gunpowder, -some amber, tobacco, and my umbrella; and as I considered that my bundles -would inevitably be searched, I concealed some few articles in the roof -of the hut where I lodged, and I put on my new blue coat in order to -preserve it. - -All the houses belonging to the king and his family are surrounded by a -lofty mud wall, which converts the whole into a kind of citadel. The -interior is subdivided into different courts. At the first place of -entrance I observed a man standing with a musket on his shoulder; and I -found the way to the presence very intricate, leading through many -passages, with sentinels placed at the different doors. When we came to -the entrance of the court in which the king resides, both my guide and -interpreter, according to custom, took off their sandals; and the former -pronounced the king’s name aloud, repeating it till he was answered from -within. We found the monarch sitting upon a mat, and two attendants with -him. I repeated what I had before told him concerning the object of my -journey, and my reasons for passing through his country. He seemed, -however, but half satisfied. When I offered to show him the contents of -my portmanteau, and everything belonging to me, he was convinced; and it -was evident that his suspicion had arisen from a belief that every white -man must of necessity be a trader. When I had delivered my presents, he -seemed well pleased, and was particularly delighted with the umbrella, -which he repeatedly furled and unfurled, to the great admiration of -himself and his two attendants, who could not for some time comprehend -the use of this wonderful machine. After this I was about to take my -leave, when the king, desiring me to stop a while, began a long preamble -in favour of the whites, extolling their immense wealth and good -dispositions. He next proceeded to an eulogium on my blue coat, of which -the yellow buttons seemed particularly to catch his fancy; and he -concluded by entreating me to present him with it, assuring me, for my -consolation under the loss of it, that he would wear it on all public -occasions, and inform every one who saw it of my great liberality towards -him. The request of an African prince, in his own dominions, -particularly when made to a stranger, comes little short of a command. -It is only a way of obtaining by gentle means what he can, if he pleases, -take by force; and as it was against my interest to offend him by a -refusal, I very quietly took off my coat, the only good one in my -possession, and laid it at his feet. - -In return for my compliance, he presented me with great plenty of -provisions, and desired to see me again in the morning. I accordingly -attended, and found in sitting upon his bed. He told me he was sick, and -wished to have a little blood taken from him; but I had no sooner, tied -up his arm and displayed the lancet, than his courage failed, and he -begged me to postpone the operation till the afternoon, as he felt -himself, he said, much better than he had been, and thanked me kindly for -my readiness to serve him. He then observed that his women were very -desirous to see me, and requested that I would favour them with a visit. -An attendant was ordered to conduct me; and I had no sooner entered the -court appropriated to the ladies, than the whole seraglio surrounded -me—some begging for physic, some for amber, and all of them desirous of -trying that great African specific, _blood-letting_. They were ten or -twelve in number, most of them young and handsome, and wearing on their -heads ornaments of gold, and beads of amber. - -They rallied me with a good deal of gaiety on different subjects, -particularly upon the whiteness of my skin and the prominency of my nose. -They insisted that both were artificial. The first, they said, was -produced when I was an infant, by dipping me in milk; and they insisted -that my nose had been pinched every day, till it had acquired its present -unsightly and unnatural conformation. On my part, without disputing my -own deformity, I paid them many compliments on African beauty. I praised -the glossy jet of their skins, and the lovely depression of their noses; -but they said that flattery, or, as they emphatically termed it, -_honey-mouth_, was not esteemed in Bondou. In return, however, for my -company or my compliments (to which, by the way, they seemed not so -insensible as they affected to be) they presented me with a jar of honey -and some fish, which were sent to my lodging; and I was desired to come -again to the king a little before sunset. - -I carried with me some beads and writing-paper, it being usual to present -some small offering on taking leave, in return for which the king gave me -five drachms of gold, observing that it was but a trifle, and given out -of pure friendship, but would be of use to me in travelling, for the -purchase of provisions. He seconded this act of kindness by one still -greater, politely telling me that, though it was customary to examine the -baggage of every traveller passing through his country, yet, in the -present instance, he would dispense without ceremony, adding, I was at -liberty to depart when I pleased. - -Accordingly, on the morning of the 23rd, we left Fatteconda, and about -eleven o’clock came to a small village, where we determined to stop for -the rest of the day. - -In the afternoon my fellow-travellers informed me that, as this was the -boundary between Bondou and Kajaaga, and dangerous for travellers, it -would be necessary to continue our journey by night, until we should -reach a more hospitable part of the country. I agreed to the proposal, -and hired two people for guides through the woods; and as soon as the -people of the village were gone to sleep (the moon shining bright) we set -out. The stillness of the air, the howling of the wild beasts, and the -deep solitude of the forest, made the scene solemn and oppressive. Not a -word was uttered by any of us but in a whisper; all were attentive, and -every one anxious to show his sagacity by pointing out to me the wolves -and hyænas, as they glided like shadows from one thicket to another. -Towards morning we arrived at a village called Kimmoo, where our guides -awakened one of their acquaintances, and we stopped to give the asses -some corn, and roast a few ground-nuts for ourselves. At daylight we -resumed our journey, and in the afternoon arrived at Joag, in the kingdom -of Kajaaga. - -Being now in a country and among a people differing in many respects from -those that have as yet fallen under our observation, I shall, before I -proceed further, give some account of Bondou (the territory we have left) -and its inhabitants, the Foulahs, the description of whom I purposely -reserved for this part of my work. - -Bondou is bounded on the east by Bambouk, on the south-east and south by -Tenda and the Simbani wilderness, on the south-west by Woolli, on the -west by Foota Torra, and on the north by Kajaaga. - -The country, like that of Woolli, is very generally covered with woods, -but the land is more elevated, and, towards the Falemé river, rises into -considerable hills. In native fertility the soil is not surpassed, I -believe, by any part of Africa. - -From the central situation of Bondou, between the Gambia and Senegal -rivers, it is become a place of great resort, both for the slatees, who -generally pass through it on going from the coast to the interior -countries, and for occasional traders, who frequently come hither from -the inland countries to purchase salt. - -These different branches of commerce are conducted principally by -Mandingoes and Serawoollies, who have settled in the country. These -merchants likewise carry on a considerable trade with Gedumah and other -Moorish countries, bartering corn and blue cotton cloths for salt, which -they again barter in Dentila and other districts for iron, shea-butter, -and small quantities of gold-dust. They likewise sell a variety of -sweet-smelling gums, packed up in small bags, containing each about a -pound. These gums, being thrown on hot embers, produce a very pleasant -odour, and are used by the Mandingoes for perfuming their huts and -clothes. - -The customs, or duties on travellers, are very heavy; in almost every -town an ass-load pays a bar of European merchandise, and at Fatteconda, -the residence of the king, one Indian baft, or a musket, and six bottles -of gunpowder, are exacted as the common tribute. By means of these -duties, the king of Bondou is well supplied with arms and ammunition—a -circumstance which makes him formidable to the neighbouring states. - -The inhabitants differ in their complexions and national manners from the -Mandingoes and Serawoollies, with whom they are frequently at war. Some -years ago the king of Bondou crossed the Falemé river with a numerous -army; and, after a short and bloody campaign, totally defeated the forces -of Samboo, king of Bambouk, who was obliged to sue for peace, and -surrender to him all the towns along the eastern bank of the Falemé. - -The Foulahs in general (as has been observed in a former chapter) are of -a tawny complexion, with small features and soft silky hair; next to the -Mandingoes, they are undoubtedly the most considerable of all the nations -in this part of Africa. Their original country is said to be Fooladoo -(which signifies the country of the Foulahs); but they possess at present -many other kingdoms at a great distance from each other; their -complexion, however, is not exactly the same in the different districts; -in Bondou, and the other kingdoms which are situated in the vicinity of -the Moorish territories, they are of a more yellow complexion than in the -southern states. - -The Foulahs of Bondou are naturally of a mild and gentle disposition, but -the uncharitable maxims of the Koran have made them less hospitable to -strangers, and more reserved in their behaviour, than the Mandingoes. -They evidently consider all the negro natives as their inferiors; and, -when talking of different nations, always rank themselves among the white -people. - -Their government differs from that of the Mandingoes chiefly in this, -that they are more immediately under the influence of Mohammedan laws; -for all the chief men, the king excepted, and a large majority of the -inhabitants of Bondou, are Mussulmans, and the authority and laws of the -Prophet are everywhere looked upon as sacred and decisive. In the -exercise of their faith, however, they are not very intolerant towards -such of their countrymen as still retain their ancient superstitions. -Religious persecution is not known among them, nor is it necessary; for -the system of Mohammed is made to extend itself by means abundantly more -efficacious. By establishing small schools in the different towns, where -many of the pagan as well as Mohammedan children are taught to read the -Koran, and instructed in the tenets of the Prophet, the Mohammedan -priests fix a bias on the minds, and form the character, of their young -disciples, which no accidents of life can ever afterwards remove or -alter. Many of these little schools I visited in my progress through the -country, and I observed with pleasure the great docility and submissive -deportment of the children, and heartily wished they had had better -instructors and a purer religion. - -With the Mohammedan faith is also introduced the Arabic language, with -which most of the Foulahs have a slight acquaintance. Their native -tongue abounds very much in liquids, but there is something unpleasant in -the manner of pronouncing it. A stranger, on hearing the common -conversation of two Foulahs, would imagine that they were scolding each -other. Their numerals are these:— - -One Go. -Two Deeddee. -Three Tettee. -Four Nee. -Five Jouee. -Six Jego. -Seven Jedeeddee. -Eight Je Tettee. -Nine Je Nee. -Ten Sappo. - -The industry of the Foulahs, in the occupations of pasturage and -agriculture, is everywhere remarkable. Even on the banks of the Gambia, -the greater part of the corn is raised by them, and their herds and -flocks are more numerous and in better condition than those of the -Mandingoes; but in Bondou they are opulent in a high degree, and enjoy -all the necessaries of life in the greatest profusion. They display -great skill in the management of their cattle, making them extremely -gentle by kindness and familiarity. On the approach of the night, they -are collected from the woods and secured in folds called _korrees_, which -are constructed in the neighbourhood of the different villages. In the -middle of each korree is erected a small hut, wherein one or two of the -herdsmen keep watch during the night, to prevent the cattle from being -stolen, and to keep up the fires which are kindled round the korree to -frighten away the wild beasts. - -The cattle are milked in the mornings and evenings: the milk is -excellent; but the quantity obtained from any one cow is by no means so -great as in Europe. The Foulahs use the milk chiefly as an article of -diet, and that not until it is quite sour. The cream which it affords is -very thick, and is converted into butter by stirring it violently in a -large calabash. This butter, when melted over a gentle fire, and freed -from impurities, is preserved in small earthen pots, and forms a part in -most of their dishes; it serves likewise to anoint their heads, and is -bestowed very liberally on their faces and arms. - -But although milk is plentiful, it is somewhat remarkable that the -Foulahs, and indeed all the inhabitants of this part of Africa, are -totally unacquainted with the art of making cheese. A firm attachment to -the customs of their ancestors makes them view with an eye of prejudice -everything that looks like innovation. The heat of the climate and the -great scarcity of salt are held forth as unanswerable objections; and the -whole process appears to them too long and troublesome to be attended -with any solid advantage. - -Besides the cattle, which constitute the chief wealth of the Foulahs, -they possess some excellent horses, the breed of which seems to be a -mixture of the Arabian with the original African. - - - - -CHAPTER V. -FROM KAJAAGA TO KASSON. - - -THE kingdom of Kajaaga, in which I was now arrived, is called by the -French Gallam, but the name that I have adopted is universally used by -the natives. This country is bounded on the south-east and south by -Bambouk, on the west by Bondou and Foota-Torra, and on the north by the -river Senegal. - -The air and climate are, I believe, more pure and salubrious than at any -of the settlements towards the coast; the face of the country is -everywhere interspersed with a pleasing variety of hills and valleys; and -the windings of the Senegal river, which descends from the rocky hills of -the interior, make the scenery on its banks very picturesque and -beautiful. - -The inhabitants are called Serawoollies, or (as the French write it) -_Seracolets_. Their complexion is a jet black: they are not to be -distinguished in this respect from the Jaloffs. - -The government is monarchical, and the regal authority, from what I -experienced of it, seems to be sufficiently formidable. The people -themselves, however, complain of no oppression, and seemed all very -anxious to support the king in a contest he was going to enter into with -the sovereign of Kasson. The Serawoollies are habitually a trading -people; they formerly carried on a great commerce with the French in gold -and slaves, and still maintain some traffic in slaves with the British -factories on the Gambia. They are reckoned tolerably fair and just in -their dealings, but are indefatigable in their exertions to acquire -wealth, and they derive considerable profits by the sale of salt and -cotton cloth in distant countries. When a Serawoolli merchant returns -home from a trading expedition the neighbours immediately assemble to -congratulate him upon his arrival. On these occasions the traveller -displays his wealth and liberality by making a few presents to his -friends; but if he has been unsuccessful his levee is soon over, and -every one looks upon him as a man of no understanding, who could perform -a long journey, and (at they express it) “bring back nothing but the hair -upon his head.” - -Their language abounds much in gutturals, and is not so harmonious as -that spoken by the Foulahs. It is, however, well worth acquiring by -those who travel through this part of the African continent, it being -very generally understood in the kingdoms of Kasson, Kaarta, Ludamar, and -the northern parts of Bambarra. In all these countries the Serawoollies -are the chief traders. Their numerals are:— - -One Bani. -Two Fillo. -Three Sicco. -Four Narrato. -Five Karrago. -Six Toomo. -Seven Nero. -Eight Sego. -Nine Kabbo. -Ten Tamo. -Twenty Tamo di Fillo. - -We arrived at Joag, the frontier town of this kingdom, on the 24th of -December, and took up our residence at the house of the chief man, who is -here no longer known by the title of alkaid, but is called the _dooty_. -He was a rigid Mohammedan, but distinguished for his hospitality. This -town may be supposed, on a gross computation, to contain two thousand -inhabitants. It is surrounded by a high wall, in which are a number of -port-holes, for musketry to fire through, in case of an attack. Every -man’s possession is likewise surrounded by a wall, the whole forming so -many distinct citadels; and amongst a people unacquainted with the use of -artillery these walls answer all the purposes of stronger fortifications. -To the westward of the town is a small river, on the banks of which the -natives raise great plenty of tobacco and onions. - -The same evening Madiboo, the bushreen, who had accompanied me from -Pisania, went to pay a visit to his father and mother, who dwelt at a -neighbouring town called Dramanet. He was joined by my other attendant, -the blacksmith. As soon as it was dark I was invited to see the sports -of the inhabitants, it being their custom, on the arrival of strangers, -to welcome them by diversions of different kinds. I found a great crowd -surrounding a party who were dancing, by the light of some large fires, -to the music of four drums, which were beat with great exactness and -uniformity. The dances, however, consisted more in wanton gestures than -in muscular exertion or graceful attitudes. The ladies vied with each -other in displaying the most voluptuous movements imaginable. - -_December_ 25.—About two o’clock in the morning a number of horsemen came -into the town, and, having awakened my landlord, talked to him for some -time in the Serawoolli tongue; after which they dismounted and came to -the bentang, on which I had made my bed. One of them, thinking that I -was asleep, attempted to steal the musket that lay by me on the mat, but -finding that he could not effect his purpose undiscovered, he desisted, -and the strangers sat down by me till daylight. - -I could now easily perceive, by the countenance of my interpreter, -Johnson, that something very unpleasant was in agitation. I was likewise -surprised to see Madiboo and the blacksmith so soon returned. On -inquiring the reason, Madiboo informed me that, as they were dancing at -Dramanet, ten horsemen belonging to Batcheri, king of the country, with -his second son at their head, had arrived there, inquiring if the white -man had passed, and, on being told that I was at Joag, they rode off -without stopping. Madiboo added that on hearing this he and the -blacksmith hastened back to give me notice of their coming. Whilst I was -listening to this narrative the ten horsemen mentioned by Madiboo -arrived, and coming to the bentang, dismounted and seated themselves with -those who had come before—the whole being about twenty in number—forming -a circle round me, and each man holding his musket in his hand. I took -this opportunity to observe to my landlord that, as I did not understand -the Serawoolli tongue, I hoped whatever the men had to say they would -speak in Mandingo. To this they agreed; and a short man, loaded with a -remarkable number of saphies, opened the business in a very long -harangue, informing me that I had entered the king’s town without having -first paid the duties, or giving any present to the king; and that, -according to the laws of the country, my people, cattle, and baggage were -forfeited. He added that they had received orders from the king to -conduct me to Maana, {70} the place of his residence, and if I refused to -come with them their orders were to bring me by force; upon his saying -which all of them rose up and asked me if I was ready. It would have -been equally vain and imprudent in me to have resisted or irritated such -a body of men; I therefore affected to comply with their commands, and -begged them only to stop a little until I had given my horse a feed of -corn, and settled matters with my landlord. The poor blacksmith, who was -a native of Kasson, mistook this feigned compliance for a real intention, -and taking me away from the company, told me that he had always behaved -towards me as if I had been his father and master, and he hoped I would -not entirely ruin him by going to Maana, adding that as there was every -reason to believe a war would soon take place between Kasson and Kajaaga, -he should not only lose his little property, the savings of four years’ -industry, but should certainly be detained and sold as a slave, unless -his friends had an opportunity of paying two slaves for his redemption. -I saw this reasoning in its full force, and determined to do my utmost to -preserve the blacksmith from so dreadful a fate. I therefore told the -king’s son that I was ready to go with him, upon condition that, the -blacksmith, who was an inhabitant of a distant kingdom, and entirely -unconnected with me, should be allowed to stay at Joag till my return. -To this they all objected, and insisted that, as we had all acted -contrary to the laws, we were all equally answerable for our conduct. - -I now took my landlord aside, and giving him a small present of -gunpowder, asked his advice in such critical a situation. He was -decidedly of opinion that I ought not to go to the king: he was fully -convinced, he said, that if the king should discover anything valuable in -my possession, he would not be over scrupulous about the means of -obtaining it. - -Towards the evening, as I was sitting upon the bentang chewing straws, an -old female slave, passing by with a basket upon her head, asked me _if -had got my dinner_. As I thought she only laughed at me, I gave her no -answer; but my boy, who was sitting close by, answered for me, and told -her that the king’s people had robbed me of all my money. On hearing -this, the good old woman, with a look of unaffected benevolence, -immediately took the basket from her head, and showing me that it -contained ground nuts, asked me if I could eat them. Being answered in -the affirmative, she presented me with a few handfuls, and walked away -before I had time to thank her for this seasonable supply. - -The old woman had scarcely left me when I received information that a -nephew of Demba Sego Jalla, the Mandingo king of Kasson, was coming to -pay me a visit. He had been sent on an embassy to Batcheri, King of -Kajaaga, to endeavour to settle the disputes which had arisen between his -uncle and the latter; but after debating the matter four days without -success, he was now on his return, and hearing that a white man was at -Joag, on his way to Kasson, curiosity brought in to see me. I -represented to him my situation and distresses, when he frankly offered -me his protection, and said he would be my guide to Kasson (provided I -would set out the next morning), and be answerable for my safety. I -readily and gratefully accepted his offer, and was ready with my -attendants by daylight on the morning of the 27th of December. - -My protector, whose name was Demba Sego, probably after his uncle, had a -numerous retinue. Our company, at leaving Joag, consisted of thirty -persons and six loaded asses; and we rode on cheerfully enough for some -hours, without any remarkable occurrence until we came to a species of -tree for which my interpreter Johnson had made frequent inquiry. On -finding it, he desired us to stop, and producing a white chicken, which -he had purchased at Joag for the purpose, he tied it by the leg to one of -the branches, and then told us we might now safely proceed, for that our -journey would be prosperous. - -At noon we had reached Gungadi, a large town where we stopped about an -hour, until some of the asses that had fallen behind came up. Here I -observed a number of date-trees, and a mosque built of clay, with six -turrets, on the pinnacles of which were placed six ostrich eggs. A -little before sunset we arrived at the town of Samee, on the banks of the -Senegal, which is here a beautiful but shallow river, moving slowly over -a bed of sand and gravel. The banks are high, and covered with -verdure—the country is open and cultivated—and the rocky hills of Fellow -and Bambouk add much to the beauty of the landscape. - -_December_ 28.—We departed from Samee, and arrived in the afternoon at -Kayee, a large village, part of which is situated on the north and part -on the south side of the river. - -The ferryman then taking hold of the most steady of the horses by a rope, -led him into the water, and paddled the canoe a little from the brink; -upon which a general attack commenced upon the other horses, who, finding -themselves pelted and kicked on all sides, unanimously plunged into the -river, and followed their companion. A few boys swam in after them; and, -by laving water upon them when they attempted to return, urged them -onwards; and we had the satisfaction in about fifteen minutes to see them -all safe on the other side. It was a matter of greater difficulty to -manage the asses; their natural stubbornness of disposition made them -endure a great deal of pelting and shoving before they would venture into -the water; and when they had reached the middle of the stream, four of -them turned back, in spite of every exertion to get them forwards. Two -hours were spent in getting the whole of them over; an hour more was -employed in transporting the baggage; and it was near sunset before the -canoe returned, when Demba Sego and myself embarked in this dangerous -passage-boat, which the least motion was like to overset. The king’s -nephew thought this a proper time to have a peep into a tin box of mine -that stood in the fore part of the canoe; and in stretching out his band -for it, he unfortunately destroyed the equilibrium, and overset the -canoe. Luckily we were not far advanced, and got back to the shore -without much difficulty; from whence, after wringing the water from our -clothes, we took a fresh departure, and were soon afterwards safely -landed in Kasson. - - - - -CHAPTER VI. -TIGGITY SEGO’S PALAVER. - - -WE no sooner found ourselves safe in Kasson than Demba Sego told me that -we were now in his uncle’s dominions, and he hoped I would consider, -being now out of danger, the obligation I owed to him, and make him a -suitable return for the trouble he had taken on my account by a handsome -present. This, as he knew how much had been pilfered from me at Joag, -was rather an unexpected proposition, and I began to fear that I had not -much improved my condition by crossing the water; but as it would have -been folly to complain I made no observation upon his conduct, and gave -him seven bars of amber and some tobacco, with which he seemed to be -content. - -After a long day’s journey, in the course of which I observed a number of -large loose nodules of white granite, we arrived at Teesee on the evening -of December 29th, and were accommodated in Demba Sego’s hut. The next -morning he introduced me to his father, Tiggity Sego, brother to the king -of Kasson, chief of Teesee. The old man viewed me with great -earnestness, having never, he said, beheld but one white man before, whom -by his description I immediately knew to be Major Houghton. - -In the afternoon one of his slaves eloped; and a general alarm being -given, every person that had a horse rode into the woods, in the hopes of -apprehending him, and Demba Sego begged the use of my horse for the same -purpose. I readily consented; and in about an hour they all returned -with the slave, who was severely flogged, and afterwards put in irons. -On the day following (December 31st) Demba Sego was ordered to go with -twenty horsemen to a town in Gedumah, to adjust some dispute with the -Moors, a party of whom were supposed to have stolen three horses from -Teesee. Demba begged a second the time use of my horse, adding that the -sight of my bridle and saddle would give him consequence among the Moors. -This request also I readily granted, and he promised to return at the end -of three days. During his absence I amused myself with walking about the -town, and conversing with the natives, who attended me everywhere with -great kindness and curiosity, and supplied me with milk, eggs, and what -other provisions I wanted, on very easy terms. - -Teesee is a large unwalled town, having no security against the attack of -an enemy except a sort of citadel in which Tiggity and his family -constantly reside. This town, according to the report of the natives, -was formerly inhabited only by a few Foulah shepherds, who lived in -considerable affluence by means of the excellent meadows in the -neighbourhood, in which they reared great herds of cattle. But their -prosperity attracting the envy of some Mandingoes, the latter drove out -the shepherds, and took possession of their lands. - -The present inhabitants, though they possess both cattle and corn in -abundance, are not over nice in articles of diet; rats, moles, squirrels, -snakes, locusts, are eaten without scruple by the highest and lowest. My -people were one evening invited to a feast given by some of the townsmen, -where, after making a hearty meal of what they thought fish and kouskous, -one of them found a piece of hard skin in the dish, and brought it along -with him to show me what sort of fish they had been eating. On examining -the skin I found they had been feasting on a large snake. Another custom -still more extraordinary is that no woman is allowed to eat an egg. This -prohibition, whether arising from ancient superstition or from the -craftiness of some old bushreen who loved eggs himself, is rigidly -adhered to, and nothing will more affront a woman of Teesee than to offer -her an egg. The custom is the more singular, as the men eat eggs without -scruple in the presence of their wives, and I never observed the same -prohibition in any other of the Mandingo countries. - -The third day after his son’s departure, Tiggity Sego held a palaver on a -very extraordinary occasion, which I attended; and the debates on both -sides of the question displayed much ingenuity. The case was this:—A -young man, a kafir of considerable affluence, who had recently married a -young and handsome wife, applied to a very devout bushreen, or Mussalman -priest, of his acquaintance, to procure him saphies for his protection -during the approaching war. The bushreen complied with the request; and -in order, as he pretended, to render the saphies more efficacious, -enjoined the young man to avoid any nuptial intercourse with his bride -for the space of six weeks. Severe as the injunction was, the kafir -strictly obeyed; and, without telling his wife the real cause, absented -himself from her company. In the meantime, it began to be whispered at -Teesee that the bushreen, who always performed his evening devotions at -the door of the kafir’s hut, was more intimate with the young wife than -he ought to be. At first the good husband was unwilling to suspect the -honour of his sanctified friend, and one whole month elapsed before any -jealousy rose in his mind, but hearing the charge repeated, he at last -interrogated his wife on the subject, who frankly confessed that the -bushreen had seduced her. Hereupon the kafir put her into confinement, -and called a palaver upon the bushreen’s conduct. The fact was clearly -proved against him; and he was sentenced to be sold into slavery, or to -find two slaves for his redemption, according to the pleasure of the -complainant. The injured husband, however, was unwilling to proceed -against his friend to such extremity, and desired rather to have him -publicly flogged before Tiggity Sego’s gate. This was agreed to, and the -sentence was immediately executed. The culprit was tied by the hands to -a strong stake; and a long black rod being brought forth, the -executioner, after flourishing it round his head for some time, applied -it with such force and dexterity to the bushreen’s back as to make him -roar until the woods resounded with his screams. The surrounding -multitude, by their hooting and laughing, manifested how much they -enjoyed the punishment of this old gallant; and it is worthy of remark -that the number of stripes was precisely the same as are enjoined by the -Mosaic law, _forty_, _save one_. - -As there appeared great probability that Teesee, from its being a -frontier town, would be much exposed during the war to the predatory -incursions of the Moors of Gedumah, Tiggity Sego had, before my arrival, -sent round to the neighbouring villages to beg or to purchase as much -provisions as would afford subsistence to the inhabitants for one whole -year, independently of the crop on the ground, which the Moors might -destroy. This project was well received by the country people, and they -fixed a day on which to bring all the provisions they could spare to -Teesee; and as my horse was not yet returned, I went, in the afternoon of -January 4th, 1796, to meet the escort with the provisions. - -It was composed of about 400 men, marching in good order, with corn and -ground nuts in large calabashes upon their heads. They were preceded by -a strong guard of bowmen, and followed by eight musicians or singing men. -As soon as they approached the town the latter began a song, every verse -of which was answered by the company, and succeeded by a few strokes on -the large drums. In this manner they proceeded, amidst the acclamations -of the populace, till they reached the house of Tiggity Sego, where the -loads were deposited; and in the evening they all assembled under the -bentang tree, and spent the night in dancing and merriment. - -On the 5th of January an embassy of ten people belonging to Almami -Abdulkader, king of Foota-Torra, a country to the west of Bondou, arrived -at Teesee; and desiring Tiggity to call an assembly of the inhabitants, -announced publicly their king’s determination to this effect:—‘That -unless all the people of Kasson would embrace the Mohammedan religion, -and evince their conversion by saying eleven public prayers, he, the king -of Foota-Torra, could not possibly stand neuter in the present contest, -but would certainly join his arms to those of Kajaaga.’ A message of -this nature from so powerful a prince could not fail to create great -alarm; and the inhabitants of Teesee, after a long consultation, agreed -to conform to his good pleasure, humiliating as it was to them. -Accordingly, one and all publicly offered up eleven prayers, which were -considered a sufficient testimony of their having renounced paganism, and -embraced the doctrines of the prophet. - -It was time 8th of January before Demba Sego returned with my horse; and -being quite wearied out with the delay, I went immediately to inform his -father that I should set out for Kooniakary early the next day. The old -man made many frivolous objections, and at length gave me to understand -that I must not think of departing without first paying him the same -duties he was entitled to receive from all travellers; besides which he -expected, he said, some acknowledgment for his kindness towards use. -Accordingly, on the morning of the 9th, my friend Demba, with a number of -people, came to me, and said that they were sent by Tiggity Sego for my -present, and wished to see what goods I had appropriated for that -purpose. I knew that resistance was hopeless, and complaint unavailing: -and being in some measure prepared by the intimation I had received the -night before, I quietly offered him seven bars of amber and five of -tobacco. After surveying these articles for some time very coolly, Demba -laid them down, and told me that this was not a present for a man of -Tiggity Sego’s consequence, who had it in his power to take whatever he -pleased from me. He added, that if I did not consent to make him a -larger offering he would carry all my baggage to his father, and let him -choose for himself. I had no time for reply, for Demba and his -attendants immediately began to open my bundles, and spread the different -articles upon the floor, where they underwent a more strict examination -than they had done at Joag. Everything that pleased them they took -without scruple: and amongst other things, Demba seized the tin box that -had so much attracted his attention in crossing the river. Upon -collecting the scattered remains of my little fortune after these people -had left me, I found that, as at Joag I had been plundered of half, so -here, without even the shadow of accusation, I was deprived of half the -remainder. The blacksmith himself, though a native of Kasson, had also -been compelled to open his bundles, and take an oath that the different -articles they contained were his own exclusive property. There was, -however, no remedy, and having been under some obligation to Demba Sego -for his attention towards me in the journey from Joag, I did not reproach -him for his rapacity, but determined to quit Teesee, at all events, the -next morning. In the meanwhile, in order to raise the drooping spirits -of my attendants, I purchased a fat sheep, and had it dressed for our -dinner. - -Early in the morning of January 10th, therefore, I left Teesee, and about -mid-day ascended a ridge, from whence we had a distant view of the hills -round Kooniakary. In the evening we reached a small village, where we -slept, and, departing from thence the next morning, crossed in a few -hours a narrow but deep stream called Krieko, a branch of the Senegal. -About two miles farther to the eastward we passed a large town called -Madina, and at two o’clock came in sight of Jumbo, the blacksmith’s -native town, from whence he had been absent more than four years. Soon -after this, his brother, who had by some means been apprised of his -coming, came out to meet him, accompanied by a singing man. He brought a -horse for the blacksmith, that he might enter his native town in a -dignified manner; and he desired each of us to put a good charge of -powder into our guns. The singing man now led the way, followed by the -two brothers, and we were presently joined by a number of people from the -town, all of whom demonstrated great joy at seeing their old acquaintance -the blacksmith by the most extravagant jumping and singing. On entering -the town the singing man began an extempore song in praise of the -blacksmith, extolling his courage in having overcome so many -difficulties, and concluding with a strict injunction to his friends to -dress him plenty of victuals. - -When we arrived at the blacksmith’s place of residence we dismounted, and -fired our muskets. The meeting between him and his relations was very -tender; for these rude children of nature, free from restraint, display -their emotions in the strongest and most expressive manner. Amidst these -transports the blacksmith’s aged mother was led forth, leaning upon a -staff. Every one made way for her, and she stretched out her hand to bid -her son welcome. Being totally blind, she stroked his hands, arms, and -face with great care, and seemed highly delighted that her latter days -were blessed by his return, and that her ears once more heard the music -of his voice. - -During the tumult of these congratulations I had seated myself apart by -the side of one of the huts, being unwilling to interrupt the flow of -filial and parental tenderness; and the attention of the company was so -entirely taken up with the blacksmith that I believe none of his friends -had observed me. When all the people present had seated themselves the -blacksmith was desired by his father to give them some account of his -adventures; and silence being commanded, he began, and after repeatedly -thanking God for the success that had attended him, related every -material occurrence that had happened to him from his leasing Kasson to -his arrival at the Gambia, his employment and success in those parts, and -the dangers he had escaped in returning to his native country. In the -latter part of his narration he had frequently occasion to mention me; -and after many strong expressions concerning my kindness to him he -pointed to the place where I sat, and exclaimed, “_Affille ibi -siring_!”—(“See him sitting there!”) In a moment all eyes were turned -upon me; I appeared like a being dropped from the clouds; every one was -surprised that they had not observed me before; and a few women and -children expressed great uneasiness at being so near a man of such an -uncommon appearance. - -By degrees, however, their apprehensions subsided, and when the -blacksmith assured them that I was perfectly inoffensive, and would hurt -nobody, some of them ventured so far as to examine the texture of my -clothes; but many of them were still very suspicious; and when by -accident I happened to move myself, or look at the young children, their -mothers would scamper off with them with the greatest precipitations. In -a few hours, however, they all because reconciled to me. - -With these worthy people I spent the remainder of that and the whole of -the ensuing day, in feasting and merriment; and the blacksmith declared -he would not quit me during my stay at Kooniakary—for which place we set -out early on the morning of the 14th of January, and arrived about the -middle of the day at Soolo, a small village three miles to the south of -it. - -As this place was somewhat out of the direct road, it is necessary to -observe that I went thither to visit a slatee or Gambia trader, of great -note and reputation, named Salim Daucari. He was well known to Dr. -Laidley, who had trusted him with effects to the value of five slaves, -and had given me an order for the whole of the debt. We luckily found -him at home, and he received me with great kindness and attention. - -It is remarkable, however, that the king of Kasson was by some means -immediately apprised of my motions; for I had been at Soolo but a few -hours before Sambo Sego, his second son, came thither with a party of -horse, to inquire what had prevented me from proceeding to Kooniakary, -and waiting immediately upon the king, who, he said, was impatient to see -me. Salim Daucari made my apology, and promised to accompany me to -Kooniakary the same evening. We accordingly departed from Soolo at -sunset, and in about an hour entered Kooniakary. But as the king had -gone to sleep we deferred the interview till next morning, and slept at -the hut of Sambo Sego. - - - - -CHAPTER VII. -INTERVIEW WITH KING DEMBA SEGO JALLA. - - -ABOUT eight o’clock in the morning of January 15th, 1796, we went to an -audience of the king (Demba Sego Jalla), but the crowd of people to see -me was so great that I could scarcely get admittance. A passage being at -length obtained, I made my bow to the monarch, whom we found sitting upon -a mat, in a large hut. He appeared to be a man of about sixty years of -age. His success in war, and the mildness of his behaviour in time of -peace, had much endeared him to all his subjects. He surveyed me with -great attention; and when Salim Daucari explained to him the object of my -journey, and my reasons for passing through his country, the good old -king appeared not only perfectly satisfied, but promised me every -assistance in his power. He informed me that he had seen Major Houghton, -and presented him with a white horse; but that, after crossing the -kingdom of Kaarta, he had lost his life among the Moors, in what manner -he could not inform me. When this audience was ended we returned to our -lodging, and I made up a small present for the king out of the few -effects that were left me; for I had not yet received anything from Salim -Daucari. This present, though inconsiderable in itself, was well -received by the king, who sent me in return a large white bullock. The -sight of this animal quite delighted my attendants; not so much on -account of its bulk, as from its being of a white colour, which is -considered as a particular mark of favour. But although the king himself -was well disposed towards me, and readily granted me permission to pass -through his territories, I soon discovered that very great and unexpected -obstacles were likely to impede my progress. Besides the war which was -on the point of breaking out between Kasson and Kajaaga, I was told that -the next kingdom of Kaarta, through which my route lay, was involved in -the issue, and was furthermore threatened with hostilities on the part of -Bambarra. The king himself informed me of these circumstances, and -advised me to stay in the neighbourhood of Kooniakary till such time as -he could procure proper information respecting Bambarra, which he -expected to do in the course of four or five days, as he had already, he -said, sent four messengers into Kaarta for that purpose. I readily -submitted to this proposal, and went to Soolo, to stay there till the -return of one of those messengers. This afforded me a favourable -opportunity of receiving what money Salim Daucari could spare me on Dr. -Laidley’s account. I succeeded in receiving the value of there slaves, -chiefly in gold dust; and being anxious to proceed as quickly as -possible, I begged Daucari to use his interest with the king to allow me -a guide by the way of Fooladoo, as I was informed that the war had -already commenced between the kings of Bambarra and Kaarta. Daucari -accordingly set out for Kooniakary on the morning of the 20th, and the -same evening returned with the king’s answer, which was to this -purpose—that the king had, many years ago, made an agreement with Daisy, -king of Kaarta, to send all merchants and travellers through his -dominions; but that if I wished to take the route through Fooladoo I had -his permission so to do; though he could not, consistently with his -agreement, lend me a guide. Having felt the want of regal protection in -a former part of my journey, I was unwilling to hazard a repetition of -the hardships I had then experienced, especially as the money I had -received was probably the last supply that I should obtain. I therefore -determined to wait for the return of the messengers from Kaarta. - -In the interim it began to be whispered abroad that I had received plenty -of gold from Salim Daucari, and, on the morning of the 23rd, Sambo Sego -paid me a visit, with a party of horsemen. He insisted upon knowing the -exact amount of the money I had obtained, declaring that whatever the sum -was, one-half of it must go to the king; besides which he intimated that -he expected a handsome present for himself, as being the king’s son, and -for his attendants, as being the king’s relations. I prepared to submit; -and if Salim Daucari had not interposed all my endeavours to mitigate -this oppressive claim would have been of no avail. Salim at last -prevailed upon Sambo to accept sixteen bars of European merchandise, and -some powder and ball, as a complete payment of every demand that could be -made upon me in the kingdom of Kasson. - -_January_ 26.—In the forenoon I went to the top of a high hill to the -southward of Soolo, where I had a most enchanting prospect of the -country. The number of towns and villages, and the extensive cultivation -around them, surpassed everything I had yet seen in Africa. A gross -calculation may be formed of the number of inhabitants in this delightful -plain by considering that the king of Kasson can raise four thousand -fighting men by the sound of his war-drum. In traversing the rocky -eminences of this hill, which are almost destitute of vegetation, I -observed a number of large holes in the crevasses and fissures of the -rocks, where the wolves and hyænas take refuge during the day. - -_February_ 1.—The messengers arrived from Kaarta, and brought -intelligence that the war had not yet commenced between Bambarra and -Kaarta, and that I might probably pass through Kaarta before the Bambarra -army invaded that country. - -_February_ 3.—Early in the morning two guides on horseback came from -Kooniakary to conduct me to the frontiers of Kaarta. I accordingly took -leave of Salim Daucari, and parted for the last time from my -fellow-traveller the blacksmith, whose kind solicitude for my welfare had -been so conspicuous, and about ten o’clock departed from Soolo. We -travelled this day through a rocky and hilly country, along the banks of -the river Krieko, and at sunset came to the village of Soomo, where we -slept. - -_February_ 4.—We departed from Soomo, and continued our route along the -banks of the Krieko, which are everywhere well cultivated, and swarm with -inhabitants. At this time they were increased by the number of people -that had flown thither from Kaarta on account of the Bambarra war. In -the afternoon we reached Kimo, a large village, the residence of Madi -Konko, governor of the hilly country of Kasson, which is called Sorroma. -From hence the guides appointed by the king of Kasson returned, to join -in the expedition against Kajaaga; and I waited until the 6th before I -could prevail on Madi Konko to appoint me a guide to Kaarta. - -_February_ 7.—Departing from Kimo, with Madi Konko’s son as a guide, we -continued our course along the banks of the Krieko until the afternoon, -when we arrived at Kangee, a considerable town. The Krieko is here but a -small rivulet. This beautiful stream takes its rise a little to the -eastward of this town, and descends with a rapid and noisy current until -it reaches the bottom of the high hill called Tappa, where it becomes -more placid, and winds gently through the lovely plains of Kooniakary; -after which, having received an additional branch from the north, it is -lost in the Senegal, somewhere near the falls of Felow. - -_February_ 8.—This day we travelled over a rough stony country, and -having passed Seimpo and a number of other villages, arrived in the -afternoon at Lackarago, a small village which stands upon the ridge of -hills that separates the kingdoms of Kasson and Kaarta. In the course of -the day we passed many hundreds of people flying from Kaarta with their -families and effects. - -_February_ 9.—Early in the morning we departed from Lackarago, and a -little to the eastward came to the brow of a hill from whence we had an -extensive view of the country. Towards the south-east were perceived -some very distant hills, which our guide told us were the mountains of -Fooladoo. We travelled with great difficulty down a stony and abrupt -precipice, and continued our way in the bed of a dry river course, where -the trees, meeting overhead, made the place dark and cool. In a little -time we reached the bottom of this romantic glen, and about ten o’clock -emerged from between two rocky hills, and found ourselves on the level -and sandy plains of Kaarta. At noon we arrived at a _korree_, or -watering place, where for a few strings of beads I purchased as much milk -and corn-meal as we could eat; indeed, provisions are here so cheap, and -the shepherds live in such affluence, that they seldom ask any return for -what refreshments a traveller receives from them. From this korree we -reached Feesurah at sunset, where we took up our lodging for the night. - -_February_ 10.—We continued at Feesurah all this day, to have a few -clothes washed, and learn more exactly the situation of affairs before we -ventured towards the capital. - -_February_ 11—Our landlord, taking advantage of the unsettled state of -the country, demanded so extravagant a sum for our lodging that, -suspecting he wished for an opportunity to quarrel with us, I refused to -submit to his exorbitant demand; but my attendants were so much -frightened at the reports of approaching war that they refused to proceed -any farther unless I could settle matters with him, and induce him to -accompany us to Kemoo, for our protection on the road. This I -accomplished with some difficulty; and by a present of a blanket which I -had brought with me to sleep in, and for which our landlord had conceived -a very great liking, matters were at length amicably adjusted, and he -mounted his horse and led the way. He was one of those negroes who, -together with the ceremonial part of the Mohammedan religion, retain all -their ancient superstitions, and even drink strong liquors. They are -called Johars, or Jowars, and in this kingdom form a very numerous and -powerful tribe. We had no sooner got into a dark need lonely part of the -first wood than he made a sign for us to stop, and, taking hold of a -hollow piece of bamboo that hung as an amulet round his neck, whistled -very loud there times. I confess I was somewhat startled, thinking it -was a signal for some of his companions to come and attack us; but he -assured me that it was done merely with a view to ascertain what success -we were likely to meet with on our present journey. He then dismounted, -laid his spear across the road, and having said a number of short -prayers, concluded with three loud whistles; after which he listened for -some time, as if in expectation of an answer, and receiving none, told us -we might proceed without fear, for there was no danger. About noon we -passed a number of large villages quite deserted, the inhabitants having -fled into Kasson to avoid the horrors of war. We reached Karankalla at -sunset. This formerly was a large town, but having been plundered by the -Bambarrans about four years ago, nearly one-half of it is still in ruins. - -_February_ 12.—At daylight we departed from Karankalla, and as it was but -a short day’s journey to Kemmoo, we travelled slower than usual, and -amused ourselves by collecting such eatable fruits as grew near the -road-side. About noon we saw at a distance the capital of Kaarta, -situated in the middle of an open plain—the country for two miles round -being cleared of wood, by the great consumption of that article for -building and fuel—and we entered the town about two o’clock in the -afternoon. - -We proceeded without stopping to the court before the king’s residence; -but I was so completely surrounded by the gazing multitude that I did not -attempt to dismount, but sent in the landlord and Madi Konki’s son, to -acquaint the king of my arrival. In a little time they returned, -accompanied by a messenger from the king, signifying that he would see me -in the evening; and in the meantime the messenger had orders to procure -me a lodging and see that the crowd did not molest me. He conducted me -into a court, at the door of which he stationed a man with a stick in his -hand to keep off the mob, and then showed me a large hut in which I was -to lodge. I had scarcely seated myself in this spacious apartment when -the mob entered; it was found impossible to keep them out, and I was -surrounded by as many as the hut could contain. When the first party, -however, had seen me, and asked a few questions, they retired to make -room for another company; and in this manner the hut was filled and -emptied thirteen different times. - -A little before sunset the king sent to inform me that he was at leisure, -and wished to see me. I followed the messenger through a number of -courts surrounded with high walls, where I observed plenty of dry grass, -bundled up like hay, to fodder the horses, in case the town should be -invested. On entering the court in which the king was sitting I was -astonished at the number of his attendants, and at the good order that -seemed to prevail among them; they were all seated—the fighting men on -the king’s right hand and the women and children on the left, leaving a -space between them for my passage. The king, whose name was Daisy -Koorabarri, was not to be distinguished from his subjects by any -superiority in point of dress; a bank of earth, about two feet high, upon -which was spread a leopard’s skin, constituted the only mark of royal -dignity. When I had seated myself upon the ground before him, and -related the various circumstances that had induced me to pass through his -country, and my reasons for soliciting his protections, he appeared -perfectly satisfied; but said it was not in his power at present to -afford me much assistance, for that all sort of communication between -Kaarta and Bambarra had been interrupted for some time past; and as -Mansong, the king of Bambarra, with his army, had entered Fooladoo in his -way to Kaarta, there was but little hope of my reaching Bambarra by any -of the usual routes, inasmuch as, coming from an enemy’s country, I -should certainly be plundered, or taken for a spy. If his country had -been at peace, he said, I might have remained with him until a more -favourable opportunity offered; but, as matters stood at present, he did -not wish me to continue in Kaarta, for fear some accident should befall -me, in which case my countrymen might say that he had murdered a white -man. He would therefore advise me to return into Kasson, and remain -there until the war should terminate, which would probably happen in the -course of three or four months, after which, if he was alive, he said, he -would be glad to see me, and if he was dead his sons would take care of -me. - -This advice was certainly well meant on the part of the king, and perhaps -I was to blame in not following it; but I reflected that the hot months -were approaching, and I dreaded the thoughts of spending the rainy season -in the interior of Africa. These considerations, and the aversion I felt -at the idea of returning without having made a greater progress in -discovery, made sue determine to go forward; and though the king could -not give me a guide to Bambarra, I begged that he would allow a man to -accompany me as near the frontiers of his kingdom as was consistent with -safety. Finding that I was determined to proceed, the king told me that -one route still remained, but that, he said, was by no means free from -danger—which was to go from Kaarta into the Moorish kingdom of Ludamar, -from whence I might pass by a circuitous route into Bambarra. If I -wished to follow this route he would appoint people to conduct me to -Jarra, the frontier town of Ludamar. He then inquired very particularly -how I had been treated since I had left the Gambia, and asked, in a -jocular way, how many slaves I expected to carry home with me on my -return. He was about to proceed when a man mounted on a fine Moorish -horse, which was covered with sweat and foam, entered the court, and -signifying that he had something of importance to communicate, the king -immediately took up his sandals, which is the signal to strangers to -retire. I accordingly took leave, but desired my boy to stay about the -place, in order to learn something of the intelligence that this -messenger had brought. In about an hour the boy returned, and informed -me that the Bambarra army had left Fooladoo, and was on its march towards -Kaarta; that the man I had seen, who had brought this intelligence, was -one of the scouts, or watchmen, employed by the king, each of whom has -his particular station (commonly on some rising ground) from whence he -has the best view of the country, and watches the motions of the enemy. - -_February_ 13.—At daylight I sent my horse-pistols and holsters as a -present to the king, and being very desirous to get away from a place -which was likely soon to become the seat of war, I begged the messenger -to inform the king that I wished to depart from Kemmoo as soon as he -should find it convenient to appoint me a guide. In about an hour the -king sent his messenger to thank me for the present, and eight horsemen -to conduct me to Jarra. They told me that the king wished me to proceed -to Jarra with all possible expedition, that they might return before -anything decisive should happen between the armies of Bambarra need -Kaarta. We accordingly departed forthwith from Kemmoo, accompanied by -three of Daisy’s sons, and about two hundred horsemen, who kindly -undertook to see me a little way on my journey. - - - - -CHAPTER VIII. -ADVENTURES BETWEEN KEMMOO AND JARRA. - - -ON the evening of the day of our departure from Kemmoo (the king’s eldest -son and great part of the horsemen having returned) we reached a village -called Marina, where we slept. During the night some thieves broke into -the hut where I had deposited my baggage, and having cut open one of my -bundles, stole a quantity of beads, part of my clothes, and some amber -and gold, which happened to be in one of the pockets. I complained to my -protectors, but without effect. The next day (February 14th) was far -advanced before we departed from Marina, and we travelled slowly, on -account of the excessive heat, until four o’clock in the afternoon, when -two negroes were observed sitting among some thorny bushes, at a little -distance from the road. The king’s people, taking it for granted that -they were runaway slaves, cocked their muskets, and rode at full speed in -different directions through the bushes, in order to surround them, and -prevent their escaping. The negroes, however, waited with great -composure until we came within bowshot of them, when each of them took -from his quiver a handful of arrows, and putting two between his teeth -and one in his bow, waved to us with his hand to keep at a distance; upon -which one of the king’s people called out to the strangers to give some -account of themselves. They said that “they were natives of Toorda, a -neighbouring village, and had come to that place to gather _tomberongs_.” -These are small farinaceous berries, of a yellow colour and delicious -taste, which I knew to be the fruit of the _rhamnus lotus_ of Linnæus. - -The lotus is very common in all the kingdoms which I visited; but is -found in the greatest plenty on the sandy soil of Kaarta, Ludamar, and -the northern parts of Bambarra, where it is one of the most common shrubs -of the country. I had observed the same species at Gambia. - -As this shrub is found in Tunis, and also in the negro kingdoms, and as -it furnishes the natives of the latter with a food resembling bread, and -also with a sweet liquor which is much relished by them, there can be -little doubt of its being the lotus mentioned by Pliny as the food of the -Libyan Lotophagi. An army may very well have been fed with the bread I -have tasted, made of the meal of the fruit, as is said by Pliny to have -been done in Libya; and as the taste of the bread is sweet and agreeable, -it is not likely that the soldiers would complain of it. - -We arrived in the evening at the village of Toorda; when all the rest of -the king’s people turned back except two, who remained with me as guides -to Jarra. - -_February_ 15.—I departed from Toorda, and about two o’clock came to a -considerable town, called Funingkedy. As we approached the town the -inhabitants were much alarmed; for, as one of my guides wore a turban, -they mistook us for some Moorish banditti. This misapprehension was soon -cleared up, and we were well received by a Gambia slatee, who resides at -this town, and at whose house we lodged. - -_February_ 16.—We were informed that a number of people would go from -this town to Jarra on the day following; and as the road was much -infested by the Moors we resolved to stay and accompany the travellers. - -About two o’clock, as I was lying asleep upon a bullock’s hide behind the -door of the hut, I was awakened by the screams of women, and a general -clamour and confusion among the inhabitants. At first I suspected that -the Bambarrans had actually entered the town; but observing my boy upon -the top of one of the huts, I called to him to know what was the matter. -He informed me that the Moors were come a second time to steal the -cattle, and that they were now close to the town. I mounted the roof of -the hut, and observed a large herd of bullocks coming towards the town, -followed by five Moors on horseback, who drove the cattle forward with -their muskets. When they had reached the wells which are close to the -town, the Moors selected from the herd sixteen of the finest beasts, and -drove them off at full cell gallop. During this transaction the -townspeople, to the number of five hundred, stood collected close to the -walls of the town; and when the Moors drove the cattle away, though they -passed within pistol-shot of them, the inhabitants scarcely made a show -of resistance. I only saw four muskets fired, which, being loaded with -gunpowder of the negroes’ own manufacture, did no execution. Shortly -after this I observed a number of people supporting a young man on -horseback, and conducting him slowly towards the town. This was one of -the herdsmen, who, attempting to throw his spear, had been wounded by a -shot from one of the Moors. His mother walked on before, quite frantic -with grief, clapping her hands, and enumerating the good qualities of her -son. “_Ee maffo fenio_!” (“He never told a lie!”) said the disconsolate -mother as her wounded son was carried in at the gate—“_Ee maffo fonio -abada_!” (“He never told a lie; no, never!”) When they had conveyed him -to his hut, and laid him upon a mat, all the spectators joined in -lamenting his fate, by screaming and howling in the most piteous manner. - -After their grief had subsided a little, I was desired to examine the -wound. I found that the ball had passed quite through his leg, having -fractured both bones a little below the knee: the poor boy was faint from -the loss of blood, and his situation withal so very precarious, that I -could not console his relations with any great hopes of his recovery. -However, to give him a possible chance, I observed to them that it was -necessary to cut off his leg above the knee. This proposal made every -one start with horror; they had never heard of such a method of cure, and -would by no means give their consent to it; indeed, they evidently -considered me a sort of cannibal for proposing so cruel and unheard-of an -operation, which, in their opinion, would be attended with more pain and -danger than the wound itself. The patient was therefore committed to the -care of some old bashreens, who endeavoured to secure him a passage into -paradise by whispering in his ear some Arabic sentences, and desiring him -to repeat them. After many unsuccessful attempts, the poor heathen at -last pronounced, “_La illah el Allah_, _Mahamet rasowl allahi_” (“There -is but one God, and Mohammed is his Prophet”); and the disciples of the -Prophet assured his mother that her son had given sufficient evidence of -his faith, and would be happy in a future state. He died the same -evening. - -_February_ 17.—My guides informed me that in order to avoid the Moorish -banditti it was necessary to travel in the night; we accordingly departed -from Funingkedy in the afternoon, accompanied by about thirty people, -carrying their effects with them into Ludamar, for fear of the war. We -travelled with great silence and expedition until midnight, when we -stopped in a sort of enclosure, near a small village; but the thermometer -being so low as 68 degrees, none of the negroes could sleep on account of -the cold. - -At daybreak on the 18th we resumed our journey, and at eight o’clock -passed Simbing, the frontier village of Ludamar, situated on a narrow -pass between two rocky hills, and surrounded with a high wall. From this -village Major Houghton (being deserted by his negro servants, who refused -to follow him into the Moorish country) wrote his last letter with a -pencil to Dr. Laidley. This brave but unfortunate man, heaving -surmounted many difficulties, had taken a northerly direction, had -endeavoured to pass through the kingdom of Ludamar, where I afterwards -learned the following particulars concerning his melancholy fate:—On his -arrival at Jarra he got acquainted with certain Moorish merchants who -were travelling to Tisheet (a place near the salt pits in the Great -Desert, ten days’ journey to the northward) to purchase salt; and the -Major, at the expense of a musket and some tobacco, engaged them to -convey him thither. It is impossible to form any other opinion on this -determination than that the Moors intentionally deceived him, either with -regard to the route that he wished to pursue, or the state of the -intermediate country between Jarra and Timbuctoo. Their intention -probably was to rob and leave him in the desert. At the end of two days -he suspected their treachery, and insisted on returning to Jarra. -Finding him persist in this determination, the Moors robbed him of -everything he possessed, and went off with their camels; the poor Major -being thus deserted, returned on foot to a watering-place in possession -of the Moors, called Tarra. He had been some days without food, and the -unfeeling Moors refusing to give him any, he sank at last under his -distresses. Whether he actually perished of hunger, or was murdered -outright by the savage Mohammedans, is not certainly known; his body was -dragged into the woods, and I was shown at a distance the spot where his -remains were left to perish. - -About four miles to the north of Simbing we came to a small stream of -water, where we observed a number of wild horses they were all of one -colour, and galloped away from us at an easy rate, frequently stopping -and looking back. The negroes hunt them for food, and their flesh is -much esteemed. - -About noon we arrived at Jarra, a large town situated at the bottom of -some rocky hills. - - - - -CHAPTER IX. -THE TOWN OF JARRA—DETAINED BY THE MOORS. - - -THE town of Jarra is of considerable extent; the houses are built of clay -and stone intermixed—the clay answering the purpose of mortar. It is -situated in the Moorish kingdom of Ludamar; but the major part of the -inhabitants are negroes, from the borders of the southern states, who -prefer a precarious protection under the Moors, which they purchase by a -tribute, rather than continue exposed to their predatory hostilities. -The tribute they pay is considerable; and they manifest towards their -Moorish superiors the most unlimited obedience and submission, and are -treated by them with the utmost indignity and contempt. The Moors of -this and the other states adjoining the country of the negroes resemble -in their persons the mulattoes of the West Indies to so great a degree as -not easily to be distinguished from them; and, in truth, the present -generation seem to be a mixed race between the Moors (properly so called) -of the north and the negroes of the south, possessing many of the worst -qualities of both nations. - -Of the origin of these Moorish tribes, as distinguished from the -inhabitants of Barbary, from whom they are divided by the Great Desert, -nothing further seems to be known than what is related by John Leo, the -African, whose account may be abridged as follows:— - -Before the Arabian conquest, about the middle of the seventh century, all -the inhabitants of Africa, whether they were descended from Numidians, -Phœnicians, Carthaginians, Romans, Vandals, or Goths, were comprehended -under the general name of _Mauri_, or Moors. All these nations were -converted to the religion of Mohammed during the Arabian empire under the -Kaliphs. About this time many of the Numidian tribes, who led a -wandering life in the desert, and supported themselves upon the produce -of their cattle, retired southward across the Great Desert to avoid the -fury of the Arabians; and by one of those tribes, says Leo (that of -Zanhaga), were discovered, and conquered, the negro nations on the Niger. -By the Niger is here undoubtedly meant the river of Senegal, which in the -Mandingo language is _Bafing_, or the Black River. - -To what extent these people are now spread over the African continent it -is difficult to ascertain. There is reason to believe that their -dominion stretches from west to east, in a narrow line or belt, from the -mouth of the Senegal (on the northern side of that river) to the confines -of Abyssinia. They are a subtle and treacherous race of people, and take -every opportunity of cheating and plundering the credulous and -unsuspecting negroes. But their manners and general habits of life will -be best explained as incidents occur in the course of my narrative. - -The difficulties we had already encountered, the unsettled state of the -country, and, above all, the savage and overbearing deportment of the -Moors, had so completely frightened my attendants that they declared they -would rather relinquish every claim to reward than proceed one step -farther to the eastward. Indeed, the danger they incurred of being -seized by the Moors, and sold into slavery, became every day more -apparent; and I could not condemn their apprehensions. In this -situation, deserted by my attendants, and reflecting that my retreat was -cut off by the war behind me, and that a Moorish country of ten days’ -journey lay before me, I applied to Daman to obtain permission from Ali, -the chief or sovereign of Ludamar, that I might pass through his country -unmolested into Bambarra; and I hired one of Daman’s slaves to accompany -me thither, as soon as such permission should be obtained. A messenger -was despatched to Ali, who at this time was encamped near Benowm; and as -a present was necessary in order to insure success, I sent him five -garments of cotton cloth, which I purchased of Daman for one of my -fowling-pieces. Fourteen days elapsed in settling this affair; but on -the evening of the 26th of February, one of Ali’s slaves arrived with -directions, as he pretended, to conduct me in safety as far as Goomba, -and told me I was to pay him one garment of blue cotton cloth for his -attendance. My faithful boy, observing that I was about to proceed -without him, resolved to accompany me; and told me, that though he wished -me to turn back, he never entertained any serious thoughts of deserting -me, but had been advised to it by Johnson, with a view to induce me to -turn immediately for Gambia. - -_February_ 27.—I delivered most of my papers to Johnson, to convey them -to Gambia as soon as possible, reserving a duplicate for myself in case -of accidents. I likewise left in Daman’s possession a bundle of clothes, -and other things that were not absolutely necessary, for I wished to -diminish my baggage as much as possible, that the Moors might have fewer -inducements to plunder us. - -Things being thus adjusted, we departed from Jarra in the forenoon, and -slept at Troomgoomba, a small walled village, inhabited by a mixture of -negroes and Moors. On the day following (February 28th) we reached -Quira; and on the 29th, after a toilsome journey over a sandy country, we -came to Compe, a watering-place belonging to the Moors; from whence, on -the morning following, we proceeded to Deena, a large town, and, like -Jarra, built of stone and clay. The Moors are here in greater proportion -to the negroes than at Jarra. They assembled round the hut of the negro -where I lodged, and treated me with the greatest insolence; they hissed, -shouted, and abused me; they even spat in my face, with a view to -irritate me, and afford them a pretext for seizing my baggage. But -finding such insults had not the desired effect, they had recourse to the -final and decisive argument, that I was a Christian, and of course that -my property was lawful plunder to the followers of Mohammed. They -accordingly opened my bundles, and robbed me of everything they fancied. -My attendants, finding that everybody could rob me with impunity, -insisted on returning to Jarra. - -The day following (March 2nd), I endeavoured, by all the means in my -power, to prevail upon my people to go on, but they still continued -obstinate; and having reason to fear some further insult from the fanatic -Moors, I resolved to proceed alone. Accordingly, the next morning, about -two o’clock, I departed from Deena. It was moonlight, but the roaring of -the wild beasts made it necessary to proceed with caution. - -When I had reached a piece of rising ground about half a mile from the -town, I heard somebody halloo, and, looking back, saw my faithful boy -running after me. He informed me that Ali’s men had gone back to Benowm, -and that Daman’s negro was about to depart for Jarra; but he said he had -no doubt, if I would stop a little, that he could persuade the latter to -accompany us. I waited accordingly, and in about an hour the boy -returned with the negro; and we continued travelling over a sandy -country, covered chiefly with the _Asclepias gigantea_, until mid-day, -when we came to a number of deserted huts; and seeing some appearances of -water at a little distance, I sent the boy to fill a soofroo; but as he -was examining the place for water, the roaring of a lion, that was -probably on the same pursuit, induced the frightened boy to return in -haste, and we submitted patiently to the disappointment. In the -afternoon we reached a town inhabited chiefly by Foulahs, called -Samaming-koos. - -Next morning (March 4th), we set out for Sampaka, which place we reached -about two o’clock. On the road we observed immense quantities of -locusts; the trees were quite black with them. - -Sampaka is a large town, and when the Moors and Bambarrans were at war -was thrice attacked by the former; but they were driven off with great -loss, though the king of Bambarra was afterwards obliged to give up this, -and all the other towns as far as Goomba, in order to obtain a peace. -Here I lodged at the house of a negro who practised the art of making -gunpowder. He showed me a bag of nitre, very white, but the crystals -were much smaller than common. They procure it in considerable -quantities from the ponds, which are filled in the rainy season, and to -which the cattle resort for coolness during the heat of the day. When -the water is evaporated, a white efflorescence is observed on the mud, -which the natives collect and purify in such a manner as to answer their -purpose. The Moors supply them with sulphur from the Mediterranean; and -the process is completed by pounding the different articles together in a -wooden mortar. The grains are very unequal, and the sound of its -explosion is by no means so sharp as that produced by European gunpowder. - -_March_ 5.—We departed from Sampaka at daylight. About noon we stopped a -little at a village called Dangali, and in the evening arrived at Dalli. -We saw upon the road two large herds of camels feeding. When the Moors -turn their camels to feed they tie up one of their fore-legs to prevent -their straying. This happened to be a feast-day at Dalli, and the people -were dancing before the dooty’s house. But when they were informed that -a white man was come into the town they left off dancing and came to the -place where I lodged, walking in regular order, two and two, with the -music before them. They play upon a sort of flute; but instead of -blowing into a hole in the side they blow obliquely over the end, which -is half shut by a thin piece of wood; they govern the holes on the side -with their fingers, and play some simple and very plaintive airs. They -continued to dance and sing until midnight, during which time I was -surrounded by so great a crowd as made it necessary for me to satisfy -their curiosity by sitting still. - -_March_ 6.—We stopped here this morning because some of the townspeople, -who were going for Goomba on the day following, wished to accompany us; -but in order to avoid the crowd of people which usually assembled in the -evening we went to a negro village to the east of Dalli, called Samee, -where we were kindly received by the hospitable dooty, who on this -occasion killed two fine sheep, and invited his friends to come and feast -with him. - -_March_ 7.—Our landlord was so proud of the honour of entertaining a -white man that he insisted on my staying with him and his friends until -the cool of the evening, when he said he would conduct me to the next -village. As I was now within two days’ journey of Goomba, I had no -apprehensions from the Moors, and readily accepted the invitation. I -spent the forenoon very pleasantly with these poor negroes; their company -was the more acceptable, as the gentleness of their manners presented a -striking contrast to the rudeness and barbarity of the Moors. They -enlivened their conversation by drinking a fermented liquor made from -corn—the same sort of beer that I have described in a former chapter; and -better I never tasted in Great Britain. - -In the midst of this harmless festivity, I flattered myself that all -danger from the Moors was over. Fancy had already placed me on the banks -of the Niger, and presented to my imagination a thousand delightful -scenes in my future progress, when a party of Moors unexpectedly entered -the hut, and dispelled the golden dream. They came, they said, by Ali’s -orders, to convey me to his camp at Benowm. If I went peaceably, they -told me, I had nothing to fear; but if I refused they had orders to bring -me by force. I was struck dumb by surprise and terror, which the Moors -observing endeavoured to calm my apprehensions by repeating the assurance -that I had nothing to fear. Their visit, they added, was occasioned by -the curiosity of Ali’s wife Fatima, who had heard so much about -Christians that she was very anxious to see one: as soon as her curiosity -should be satisfied, they had no doubt, they said, that Ali would give me -a handsome present, and send a person to conduct me to Bambarra. Finding -entreaty and resistance equally fruitless, I prepared to follow the -messengers, and took leave of my landlord and his company with great -reluctance. Accompanied by my faithful boy (for Daman’s slave made his -escape on seeing the Moors), we reached Dalli in the evening, where we -were strictly watched by the Moors during the night. - -_March_ 8.—We were conducted by a circuitous path through the woods to -Dangali, where we slept. - -_March_ 9.—We continued our journey, and in the afternoon arrived at -Sampaka. - -Next morning (March 10th) we set out for Samaming-koos. On the road we -overtook a woman and two boys with an ass; she informed us that she was -going for Bambarra, but had been stopped on the road by a party of Moors, -who had taken most of her clothes and some gold from her; and that she -would be under the necessity of returning to Deena till the fast moon was -over. The same even the new moon was seen which ushered in the month -Ramadan. Large fires were made in different parts of the town, and a -greater quantity of victuals than usual dressed upon the occasion. - -_March_ 11.—By daylight the Moors were in readiness; but as I had -suffered much from thirst on the road I made my boy fill a soofroo of -water for my own use, for the Moors assured me that they should not taste -either meat or drink until sunset. However, I found that the excessive -heat of the sun, and the dust we raised in travelling, overcame their -scruples, and made my soofroo a very useful part of our baggage. On our -arrival at Deena, I went to pay my respects to one of Ali’s sons. I -found him sitting in a low hut, with five or six more of his companions, -washing their hands and feet, and frequently taking water into their -mouths, gargling and spitting it out again. I was no sooner seated than -he handed me a double-barrelled gun, and told me to dye the stock of a -blue colour, and repair one of the locks. I found great difficulty in -persuading him that I knew nothing about the matter. “However,” says he, -“if you cannot repair the gun, you shall give me some knives and scissors -immediately;” and when my boy, who acted as interpreter, assured him that -I had no such articles, he hastily snatched up a musket that stood by -him, cocked it, and putting the muzzle close to the boy’s ear, would -certainly have shot him dead upon the spot had not the Moors wrested the -musket from him, and made signs for us to retreat. - -_March_ 12.—We departed from Deena towards Benowm, and about nine o’clock -came to a korree, whence the Moors were preparing to depart to the -southward, on account of the scarcity of water; here we filled our -soofroo, and continued our journey over a hot sandy country, covered with -small stunted shrubs, until about one o’clock, when the heat of the sun -obliged us to stop. But our water being expended, we could not prudently -remain longer than a few minutes to collect a little gum, which is an -excellent succedaneum for water, as it keeps the mouth moist, and allays -for a time the pain in the throat. - -About five o’clock we came in sight of Benowm, the residence of Ali. It -presented to the eye a great number of dirty-looking tents, scattered -without order over a large space of ground; and among the tents appeared -large herds of camels, cattle, and goats. We reached the skirts of this -camp a little before sunset, and, with much entreaty, procured a little -water. My arrival was no sooner observed than the people who drew water -at the wells threw down their buckets; those in the tents mounted their -horses, and men, women, and children, came running or galloping towards -me. I soon found myself surrounded by such a crowd that I could scarcely -move; one pulled my clothes, another took off my hat, a third stopped me -to examine my waistcoat-buttons, and a fourth called out, “_La illah el -Allah_, _Mahamet rasowl allahi_”—(“There is but one God, and Mohammed is -his Prophet”)—and signified, in a threatening manner, that I must repeat -those words. We reached at length the king’s tent, where we found a -great number of people, men and women, assembled. Ali was sitting upon a -black leather cushion, clipping a few hairs from his upper lip, a female -attendant holding up a looking-glass before him. He appeared to be an -old man of the Arab cast, with a long white beard; and he had a sullen -and indignant aspect. He surveyed me with attention, and inquired of the -Moors if I could speak Arabic. Being answered in the negative, he -appeared much surprised, and continued silent. The surrounding -attendants, and especially the ladies, were abundantly more inquisitive: -they asked a thousand questions, inspected every part of my apparel, -searched my pockets, and obliged me to unbutton my waistcoat, and display -the whiteness of my skin; they even counted my toes and fingers, as if -they doubted whether I was in truth a human being. In a little time the -priest announced evening prayers; but before the people departed, the -Moor who had acted as interpreter informed me that Ali was about to -present me with something to eat; and looking round, I observed some boys -bringing a wild hog, which they tied to one of the tent strings, and Ali -made signs to me to kill and dress it for supper. Though I was very -hungry, I did not think it prudent to eat any part of an animal so much -detested by the Moors, and therefore told him that I never ate such food. -They then untied the hog, in hopes that it would run immediately at -me—for they believe that a great enmity subsists between hogs and -Christians—but in this they were disappointed, for the animal no sooner -regained his liberty than he began to attack indiscriminately every -person that came in his way, and at last took shelter under the couch -upon which the king was sitting. The assembly being thus dissolved, I -was conducted to the tent of Ali’s chief slave, but was not permitted to -enter, nor allowed to touch anything belonging to it. I requested -something to eat, and a little boiled corn, with salt and water, was at -length sent me in a wooden bowl; and a mat was spread upon the sand -before the tent, on which I passed the night, surrounded by the curious -multitude. - -At sunrise, Ali, with a few attendants, came on horseback to visit me, -and signified that he had provided a hut for me, where I would be -sheltered from the sun. I was accordingly conducted thither, and found -the hut comparatively cool and pleasant. - -I was no sooner seated in this my new habitation than the Moors assembled -in crowds to behold me; but I found it rather a troublesome levée, for I -was obliged to take off one of my stockings, and show them my foot, and -even to take off my jacket and waistcoat, to show them how my clothes -were put on and off; they were much delighted with the curious -contrivance of buttons. All this was to be repeated to every succeeding -visitor; for such as had already seen these wonders insisted on their -friends seeing the same; and in this manner I was employed, dressing and -undressing, buttoning and unbuttoning, from noon till night. About eight -o’clock, Ali sent me for supper some kouskous and salt and water, which -was very acceptable, being the only victuals I had tasted since morning. - -I observed that in the night the Moors kept regular watch, and frequently -looked into the hut to see if I was asleep; and if it was quite dark, -they would light a wisp of grass. About two o’clock in the morning a -Moor entered the hut, probably with a view to steal something, or perhaps -to murder me; and groping about he laid his hand upon my shoulder. As -night visitors were at best but suspicious characters, I sprang up the -moment he laid his hand upon me; and the Moor, in his haste to get off, -stumbled over my boy, and fell with his face upon the wild hog, which -returned the attack by biting the Moor’s arm. The screams of this man -alarmed the people in the king’s tent, who immediately conjectured that I -had made my escape, and a number of them mounted their horses, and -prepared to pursue me. I observed upon this occasion that Ali did not -sleep in his own tent, but came galloping upon a white horse from a small -tent at a considerable distance; indeed, the tyrannical and cruel -behaviour of this man made him so jealous of every person around him that -even his own slaves and domestics knew not where he slept. When the -Moors had explained to him the cause of this outcry they all went away, -and I was permitted to sleep quietly until morning. - -_March_ 13.—With the returning day commenced the same round of insult and -irritation—the boys assembled to beat the hog, and the men and women to -plague the Christian. It is impossible for me to describe the behaviour -of a people who study mischief as a science, and exult in the miseries -and misfortunes of their fellow-creatures. - - - - -CHAPTER X. -A MOORISH WEDDING. - - -THE Moors, though very indolent themselves, are rigid task-masters, and -keep every person under them in full employment. My boy Demba was sent -to the woods to collect withered grass for Ali’s horses; and after a -variety of projects concerning myself, they at last found out an -employment for me: this was no other than the respectable office of -_barber_. I was to make my first exhibition in this capacity in the -royal presence, and to be honoured with the task of shaving the head of -the young prince of Ludamar. I accordingly seated myself upon the sand, -and the boy, with some hesitation, sat down beside me. A small razor, -about three inclines long, was put into my hand, and I was ordered to -proceed; but whether from my own want of skill, or the improper shape of -the instrument, I unfortunately made a slight incision in the boy’s head -at the very commencement of the operation; and the king, observing the -awkward manner in which I held the razor, concluded that his son’s head -was in very improper hands, and ordered me to resign the razor and walk -out of the tent. This I considered as a very fortunate circumstance; for -I had laid it down as a rule to make myself as useless and insignificant -as possible, as the only means of recovering my liberty. - -_March_ 18.—Four Moors arrived from Jarra with Johnson my interpreter, -having seized him before he had received any intimation of my -confinement, and bringing with them a bundle of clothes that I had left -at Daman Jumma’s house, for my use in case I should return by the way of -Jarra. Johnson was led into Ali’s tent and examined; the bundle was -opened, and I was sent for to explain the use of the different articles. -I was happy, however, to find that Johnson had committed my papers to the -charge of one of Daman’s wives. When I had satisfied Ali’s curiosity -respecting the different articles of apparel the bundle was again tied -up, and put into a large cow-skin bag that stood in a corner of the tent. -The same evening Ali sent three of his people to inform me that there -were many thieves in the neighbourhood, and that to prevent the rest of -my things from being stolen it was necessary to convey them all into his -tent. My clothes, instruments, and everything that belonged to me, were -accordingly carried away; and though the heat and dust made clean linen -very necessary and refreshing, I could not procure a single shirt out of -the small stock I had brought along with me. Ali was, however, -disappointed by not finding among my effects the quantity of gold and -amber that he expected; but to make sure of everything he sent the same -people, on the morning following, to examine whether I had anything -concealed about my person. They, with their usual rudeness, searched -every part of my apparel, and stripped me of all my gold, amber, my -watch, and one of my pocket-compasses; I had, fortunately, in the night, -buried the other compass in the sand—and this, with the clothes I had on, -was all that the tyranny of Ali had now left me. - -The gold and amber were highly gratifying to Moorish avarice, but the -pocket-compass soon became an object of superstitious curiosity. Ali was -very desirous to be informed why that small piece of iron, the needle, -always pointed to the Great Desert; and I found myself somewhat puzzled -to answer the question. To have pleaded my ignorance would have created -a suspicion that I wished to conceal the real truth from him; I therefore -told him that my mother resided far beyond the sands of Sahara, and that -whilst she was alive the piece of iron would always point that way, and -serve as a guide to conduct me to her, and that if she was dead it would -point to her grave. Ali now looked at the compass with redoubled -amazement; turned it round and round repeatedly; but observing that it -always pointed the same way, he took it up with great caution and -returned it to me, manifesting that he thought there was something of -magic in it, and that he was afraid of keeping so dangerous an instrument -in his possession. - -_March_ 20.—This morning a council of chief men was held in Ali’s tent -respecting me. Their decisions, though they were all unfavourable to me, -were differently related by different persons. Some said that they -intended to put me to death; others that I was only to lose my right -hand; but the most probable account was that which I received from Ali’s -own son, a boy about nine years of age, who came to me in the evening, -and, with much concern, informed me that his uncle had persuaded his -father to put out my eyes, which they said resembled those of a cat, and -that all the bushreens had approved of this measure. His father, -however, he said, would not put the sentence into execution until Fatima, -the queen, who was at present in the north, had seen me. - -_March_ 21.—Anxious to know my destiny, I went to the king early in the -morning; and as a number of bushreens were assembled, I thought this a -favourable opportunity of discovering their intentions. I therefore -began by begging his permission to return to Jarra, which was flatly -refused. His wife, he said, had not yet seen me, and I must stay until -she came to Benowm, after which I should be at liberty to depart; and -that my horse, which had been taken away from me the day after I arrived, -should be again restored to me. Unsatisfactory as this answer was, I was -forced to appear pleased; and as there was little hope of making my -escape at this season of the year, on account of the excessive heat, and -the total want of water in the woods, I resolved to wait patiently until -the rains had set in, or until some more favourable opportunity should -present itself. But “hope deferred maketh the heart sick.” This tedious -procrastination from day to day, and the thoughts of travelling through -the negro kingdoms in the rainy season, which was now fast approaching, -made me very melancholy; and having passed a restless night, I found -myself attacked in the morning by a smart fever. I had wrapped myself -close up in my cloak with a view to induce perspiration, and was asleep, -when a party of Moors entered the hut, and with their usual rudeness -pulled the cloak from me. I made signs to them that I was sick, and -wished much to sleep, but I solicited in vain; my distress was matter of -sport to them, and they endeavoured to heighten it by every means in -their power. In this perplexity I left my hut, and walked to some shady -trees at a little distance from the camp, where I lay down. But even -here persecution followed me, and solitude was thought too great an -indulgence for a distressed Christian. Ali’s son, with a number of -horsemen, came galloping to the place, and ordered me to rise and follow -them. I begged they would allow me to remain where I was, if it was only -for a few hours; but they paid little attention to what I said, and, -after a few threatening words, one of them pulled out a pistol from a -leather bag that was fastened to the pommel of his saddle, and presenting -it towards me, snapped it twice. He did this with so much indifference, -that I really doubted whether the pistol was loaded. He cocked it a -third time, and was striking the flint with a piece of steel, when I -begged them to desist, and returned with them to the camp. When we -entered Ali’s tent we found him much out of humour. He called for the -Moor’s pistol, and amused himself for some time with opening and shutting -the pan; at length taking up his powder-horn, he fresh primed it, and, -turning round to me with a menacing look, said something in Arabic which -I did not understand. I desired my boy, who was sitting before the tent, -to inquire what offence I had committed; when I was informed, that having -gone out of the camp without Ali’s permission, they suspected that I had -some design of making my escape; and that, in future, if I was seen -without the skirts of the camp, orders had been given that I should be -shot by the first person that observed me. - -In the afternoon the horizon to the eastward was thick and hazy, and the -Moors prognosticated a sand wind, which accordingly commenced on the -morning following, and lasted, with slight intermissions, for two days. -The force of the wind was not in itself very great; it was what a seaman -would have denominated a _stiff breeze_; but the quantity of sand and -dust carried before it was such as to darken the whole atmosphere. - -About this time all the women of the camp had their feet and the ends of -their fingers stained of a dark saffron colour. I could never ascertain -whether this was done from motives of religion, or by way of ornament. - -_March_ 28.—This morning a large herd of cattle arrived from the -eastward, and one of the drivers, to whom Ali had lent my horse, came -into my hut with the leg of an antelope as a present, and told me that my -horse was standing before Ali’s tent. In a little time Ali sent one of -his slaves to inform me that in the afternoon I must be in readiness to -ride out with him, as he intended to show me to some of his women. - -About four o’clock, Ali, with six of his courtiers, came riding to my -hut, and told me to follow them. I readily complied. But here a new -difficulty occurred. The Moors, accustomed to a loose and easy dress, -could not reconcile themselves to the appearance of my _nankeen -breeches_, which they said were not only inelegant, but, on account of -their tightness, very indecent; and as this was a visit to ladies, Ali -ordered my boy to bring out the loose cloak which I had always worn since -my arrival at Benowm, and told me to wrap it close round me. We visited -the tents of four different ladies, at every one of which I was presented -with a bowl of milk and water. All these ladies were remarkably -corpulent, which is considered here as the highest mark of beauty. They -were very inquisitive, and examined my hair and skin with great -attention, but affected to consider me as a sort of inferior being to -themselves, and would knit their brows, and seem to shudder when they -looked at the whiteness of my skin. - -The Moors are certainly very good horsemen. They ride without fear—their -saddles being high before and behind, afford them a very secure seat; and -if they chance to fall, the whole country is so soft and sandy that they -are very seldom hurt. Their greatest pride, and one of their principal -amusements, is to put the horse to its full speed, and then stop him with -a sudden jerk, so as frequently to bring him down upon his haunches. Ali -always rode upon a milk-white horse, with its tail dyed red. He never -walked, unless when he went to say his prayers; and even in the night two -or three horses were always kept ready saddled at a little distance from -his own tent. The Moors set a very high value upon their horses; for it -is by their superior fleetness that they are enabled to make so many -predatory excursions into the negro countries. They feed them three or -four times a day, and generally give them a large quantity of sweet milk -in the evening, which the horses appear to relish very much. - -_April_ 3.—This forenoon, a child, which had been some time sickly, died -in the next tent; and the mother and relations immediately began the -death-howl. They were joined by a number of female visitors, who came on -purpose to assist at this melancholy concert. I had no opportunity of -seeing the burial, which is generally performed secretly, in the dusk of -the evening, and frequently at only a few yards’ distance from the tent. -Over the grave they plant one particular shrub, and no stranger is -allowed to pluck a leaf, or even to touch it—so great a veneration have -they for the dead. - -_April_ 7.—About four o’clock in the afternoon a whirlwind passed through -the camp with such violence that it overturned three tents, and blew down -one side of my hut. These whirlwinds come from the Great Desert, and at -this season of the year are so common that I have seen five or six of -them at one time. They carry up quantities of sand to an amazing height, -which resemble, at a distance, so many moving pillars of smoke. - -The scorching heat of the sun, upon a dry and sandy country, makes the -air insufferably hot. Ali having robbed me of my thermometer, I had no -means of forming a comparative judgment; but in the middle of the day, -when the beams of the vertical sun are seconded by the scorching wind -from the desert, the ground is frequently heated to such a degree as not -to be borne by the naked foot. Even the negro slaves will not run from -one tent to another without their sandals. At this time of the day the -Moors lie stretched at length in their tents, either asleep, or unwilling -to move; and I have often felt the wind so hot, that I could not hold my -hand in the current of air which came through the crevices of my hut -without feeling sensible pain. - -_April_ 8.—This day the wind blew from the south-west; and in the night -there was a heavy shower of rain, accompanied with thunder and lightning. - -_April_ 10.—In the evening the _tabala_, or large drum, was beat to -announce a wedding, which was held at one of the neighbouring tents. A -great number of people of both sexes assembled, but without that mirth -and hilarity which take place at a negro wedding. Here was neither -singing nor dancing, nor any other amusement that I could perceive. A -woman was beating the drum, and the other women joining at times like a -chorus, by setting up a shrill scream, and at the same time moving their -tongues from one side of the mouth to the other with great celerity. I -was soon tired, and had returned into my hut, where I was sitting almost -asleep, when an old woman entered with a wooden bowl in her hand, and -signified that she had brought me a present from the bride. Before I -could recover from the surprise which this message created, the woman -discharged the contents of the bowl full in my face. Finding that it was -the same sort of holy water with which, among the Hottentots, a priest is -said to sprinkle a newly-married couple, I began to suspect that the old -lady was actuated by mischief or malice; but she gave me seriously to -understand that it was a nuptial benediction from the bride’s own person, -and which, on such occasions, is always received by the young unmarried -Moors as a mark of distinguished favour. This being the case, I wiped my -face, and sent my acknowledgments to the lady. The wedding drum -continued to beat, and the women to sing, or rather whistle, all night. -About nine in the morning the bride was brought in state from her -mother’s tent, attended by a number of women who carried her tent (a -present from the husband), some bearing up the poles, others holding by -the strings; and in this manner they marched, whistling as formerly, -until they came to the place appointed for her residence, where they -pitched the tent. The husband followed, with a number of men, leading -four bullocks, which they tied to the tent strings; and having killed -another, and distributed the beef among the people, the ceremony was -concluded. - - - - -CHAPTER XI. -SUFFERINGS IN CAPTIVITY. - - -ONE whole month had now elapsed since I was led into captivity, during -which time each returning day brought me fresh distresses. I watched the -lingering course of the sun with anxiety, and blessed his evening beams -as they shined a yellow lustre along the sandy floor of my hut; for it -was then that my oppressors left me, and allowed me to pass the sultry -night in solitude and reflection. - -About midnight a bowl of kouskous, with some salt and water, were brought -for me and my two attendants. This was our common fare, and it was all -that was allowed us to allay the cravings of hunger and support nature -for the whole of the following day; for it is to be observed that this -was the Mohammedan Lent, and as the Moors keep the fast with a religious -strictness, they thought it proper to compel me, though a Christian, to -similar observance. Time, however, somewhat reconciled me to my -situation. I found that I could bear hunger and thirst better than I -expected; and at length I endeavoured to beguile the tedious hours by -learning to write Arabic. - -_April_ 14.—As Queen Fatima had not yet arrived, Ali proposed to go to -the north and bring her back with him; but as the place was two days’ -journey from Benowm it was necessary to have some refreshment on the -road; and Ali, suspicious of those about him, was so afraid of being -poisoned, that he never ate anything but what was dressed under his own -immediate inspection. A fine bullock was therefore killed, and the flesh -being cut up into thin slices, was dried in the sun; and this, with two -bags of dry kouskous, formed his travelling provisions. - -Previous to his departure, the black people of the town of Benowm came, -according to their annual custom, to show their arms, and bring their -stipulated tribute of corn and cloth. They were but badly -armed—twenty-two with muskets, forty or fifty with bows and arrows, and -nearly the same number of men and boys with spears only. They arranged -themselves before the tent, where they waited until their arms were -examined, and some little disputes settled. - -About midnight on the 16th, Ali departed quietly from Benowm, accompanied -by a few attendants. He was expected to return in the course of nine or -ten days. - -_April_ 18.—Two days after the departure of Ali a shereef arrived with -salt and some other articles from Walet, the capital of the kingdom of -Biroo. As there was no tent appropriated for him, he took up his abode -in the same hut with me. He seemed to be a well-informed man, and his -acquaintance both with the Arabic and Bambarra tongues enabled him to -travel with ease and safety through a number of kingdoms; for though his -place of residence was Walet, he had visited Houssa, and had lived some -years at Timbuctoo. Upon my inquiring so particularly about the distance -from Walet to Timbuctoo, he asked me if I intended to travel that way; -and being answered in the affirmative, he shook his head, and said it -would not do; for that Christians were looked upon there as the devil’s -children, and enemies to the Prophet. From him I learned the following -particulars:—That Houssa was the largest town he had ever seen: that -Walet was larger than Timbuctoo, but being remote from the Niger, and its -trade consisting chiefly of salt, it was not so much resorted to by -strangers: that between Benowm and Walet was ten days’ journey; but the -road did not lead through any remarkable towns, and travellers supported -themselves by purchasing milk from the Arabs, who keep their herds by the -watering-places: two of the days’ journeys was over a sandy country, -without water. From Walet to Timbuctoo was eleven days more; but water -was more plentiful, and the journey was usually performed upon bullocks. -He said there were many Jews at Timbuctoo, but they all spoke Arabic, and -used the same prayers as the Moors. He frequently pointed his hand to -the south-east quarter, or rather the east by south, observing that -Timbuctoo was situated in that direction; and though I made him repeat -this information again and again, I never found him to vary more than -half a point, which was to the southward. - -_April_ 24.—This morning Shereef Sidi Mahomed Moora Abdalla, a native of -Morocco, arrived with five bullocks loaded with salt. He had formerly -resided some months at Gibraltar, where he had picked up as much English -as enabled him to make himself understood. He informed me that he had -been five months in coming from Santa Cruz; but that great part of the -time had been spent in trading. When I requested him to enumerate the -days employed in travelling from Morocco to Benowm, he gave them as -follows: To Swera, three days; to Agadier, three; to Jinikin, ten; to -Wadenoon, four; to Lakeneig, five; to Zeeriwin-zerimani, five; to -Tisheet, ten; to Benowm, ten—in all, fifty days: but travellers usually -rest a long while at Jinikin and Tisheet—at the latter of which places -they dig the rock salt, which is so great an article of commerce with the -negroes. - -In conversing with these shereefs, and the different strangers that -resorted to the camp, I passed my time with rather less uneasiness than -formerly. On the other hand, as the dressing of my victuals was now left -entirely to the care of Ali’s slaves, over whom I had not the smallest -control, I found myself but ill supplied, worse even than in the fast -month: for two successive nights they neglected to send us our accustomed -meal; and though my boy went to a small negro town near the camp, and -begged with great diligence from hut to hut, he could only procure a few -handfuls of ground nuts, which he readily shared with me. - -We had been for some days in daily expectation of Ali’s return from -Saheel (or the north country) with his wife Fatima. In the meanwhile, -Mansong, king of Bambarra, as I have related in Chapter VIII., had sent -to Ali for a party of horse to assist in storming Gedingooma. With this -demand Ali had not only refused to comply, but had treated the messengers -with great haughtiness and contempt; upon which Mansong gave up all -thoughts of taking the town, and prepared to chastise Ali for his -contumacy. - -Things were in this situation when, on the 29th of April, a messenger -arrived at Benowm with the disagreeable intelligence that the Bambarra -army was approaching the frontiers of Ludamar. This threw the whole -country into confusion, and in the afternoon Ali’s son, with about twenty -horsemen, arrived at Benowm. He ordered all the cattle to be driven away -immediately, all the tents to be struck, and the people to hold -themselves in readiness to depart at daylight the next morning. - -_April_ 30.—At daybreak the whole camp was in motion. The baggage was -carried upon bullocks—the two tent poles being placed one on each side, -and the different wooden articles of the tent distributed in like manner; -the tent cloth was thrown over all, and upon this was commonly placed one -or two women; for the Moorish women are very bad walkers. The king’s -favourite concubines rode upon camels, with a saddle of a particular -construction, and a canopy to shelter them from the sun. We proceeded to -the northward until noon, when the king’s son ordered the whole company, -except the tents, to enter a thick low wood which was upon our right. I -was sent along with the two tents, and arrived in the evening at a negro -town called Farani: here we pitched the tents in an open place at no -great distance from the town. - -_May_ 1.—As I had some reason to suspect that this day was also to be -considered as a fast, I went in the morning to the negro town of Farani, -and begged some provisions from the dooty, who readily supplied my wants, -and desired me to come to his house every day during my stay in the -neighbourhood.—These hospitable people are looked upon by the Moors as an -abject race of slaves, and are treated accordingly. - -_May_ 3.—We departed from the vicinity of Farani, and after a circuitous -route through the woods, arrived at Ali’s camp in the afternoon. This -encampment was larger than that of Benowm, and was situated un the middle -of a thick wood, about two miles distant from a negro town called -Bubaker. I immediately waited upon Ali, in order to pay my respects to -Queen Fatima, who had come with him from Saheel. He seemed much pleased -with my coming, shook hands with me, and informed his wife that I was the -Christian. She was a woman of the Arab caste, with long black hair, and -remarkably corpulent. She appeared at first rather shocked at the -thought of having a Christian so near her; but when I had, by means of a -negro boy who spoke the Mandingo and Arabic tongues, answered a great -many questions which her curiosity suggested respecting the country of -the Christians, she seemed more at ease, and presented me with a bowl of -milk, which I considered as a very favourable omen. - -The heat was now almost insufferable—all nature seemed sinking under it. -The distant country presented to the eye a dreary expanse of sand, with a -few stunted trees and prickly bushes, in the shade of which the hungry -cattle licked up the withered grass, while the camels and goats picked -off the scanty foliage. The scarcity of water was greater here than at -Benowm. Day and night the wells were crowded with cattle, lowing and -fighting with each other to come at the troughs. Excessive thirst made -many of them furious; others, being too weak to contend for the water, -endeavoured to quench their thirst by devouring the black mud from the -gutters near the wells, which they did with great avidity, though it was -commonly fatal to them. - -One night, having solicited in vain for water at the camp, and been quite -feverish, I resolved to try my fortune at the wells, which were about -half a mile distant from the camp. Accordingly I set out about midnight, -and being guided by the lowing of the cattle, soon arrived at the place, -where I found the Moors very busy drawing water. I requested permission -to drink, but was driven away with outrageous abuse. Passing, however, -from one well to another, I came at last to one where there was only an -old man and two boys. I made the same request to this man, and he -immediately drew me up a bucket of water; but, as I was about to take -hold of it, he recollected that I was a Christian, and fearing that his -bucket might be polluted by my lips, he dashed the water into the trough, -and told me to drink from thence. Though this trough was none of the -largest, and three cows were already drinking from it, I resolved to come -in for my share; and kneeling down thrust my head between two of the -cows, and drank with great pleasure until the water was nearly exhausted, -and the cows began to contend with each other for the last mouthful. - -In adventures of this nature I passed the sultry month of May, during -which no material change took place in my situation. Ali still -considered me as a lawful prisoner; and Fatima, though she allowed me a -larger quantity of victuals than I had been accustomed to receive at -Benowm, had as yet said nothing on the subject of my release. In the -meantime, the frequent changes of the wind, the gathering clouds, and -distant lightning, with other appearances of approaching rain, indicated -that the wet season was at hand, when the Moors annually evacuate the -country of the negroes, and return to the skirts of the Great Desert. -This made me consider that my fate was drawing towards a crisis, and I -resolved to wait for the event without any seeming uneasiness; but -circumstances occurred which produced a change in my favour more suddenly -than I had foreseen, or had reason to expect. The case was this:—The -fugitive Kaartans, who had taken refuge in Ludamar, as I have related in -Chapter VIII., finding that the Moors were about to leave them, and -dreading the resentment of their own sovereign, whom they had so basely -deserted, offered to treat with Ali for two hundred Moorish horsemen, to -co-operate with them in an effort to expel Daisy from Gedingooma; for -until Daisy should be vanquished or humbled they considered that they -could neither return to their native towns nor live in security in any of -the neighbouring kingdoms. With a view to extort money from these people -by means of this treaty, Ali despatched his son to Jarra, and prepared to -follow him in the course of a few days. This was an opportunity of too -great consequence to me to be neglected. I immediately applied to -Fatima, who, I found, had the chief direction in all affairs of state, -and begged her interest with Ali to give me permission to accompany him -to Jarra. This request, after some hesitation, was favourably received. -Fatima looked kindly on me, and, I believe, was at length moved with -compassion towards me. My bundles were brought from the large cow-skin -bag that stood in the corner of Ali’s tent, and I was ordered to explain -the use of the different articles, and show the method of putting on the -boots, stockings, &c.—with all which I cheerfully complied, and was told -that in the course of a few days I should be at liberty to depart. - -Believing, therefore, that I should certainly find the means of escaping -from Jarra, if I should once get thither, I now freely indulged the -pleasing hope that my captivity would soon terminate; and happily not -having been disappointed in this idea, I shall pause in this place to -collect and bring into one point of view such observations on the Moorish -character and country as I had no fair opportunity of introducing into -the preceding narrative. - - - - -CHAPTER XII. -OBSERVATIONS ON THE CHARACTER AND COUNTRY OF THE MOORS. - - -THE Moors of this part of Africa are divided into many separate tribes, -of which the most formidable, according to what was reported to me, are -those of Trasart and Il Braken, which inhabit the northern bank of the -Senegal river. The tribes of Gedumah, Jaffnoo, and Ludamar, though not -so numerous as the former, are nevertheless very powerful and warlike, -and are each governed by a chief, or king, who exercises absolute -jurisdiction over his own horde, without acknowledging allegiance to a -common sovereign. In time of peace the employment of the people is -pasturage. The Moors, indeed, subsist chiefly on the flesh of their -cattle, and are always in the extreme of either gluttony or abstinence. -In consequence of the frequent and severe fasts which their religion -enjoins, and the toilsome journeys which they sometimes undertake across -the desert, they are enabled to bear both hunger and thirst with -surprising fortitude; but whenever opportunities occur of satisfying -their appetite they generally devour more at one meal than would serve a -European for three. They pay but little attention to agriculture, -purchasing their corn, cotton, cloth, and other necessaries from the -negroes, in exchange for salt, which they dig from the pits in the Great -Desert. - -The natural barrenness of the country is such that it furnishes but few -materials for manufacture. The Moors, however, contrive to weave a -strong cloth, with which they cover their tents; the thread is spun by -their women from the hair of goats, and they prepare the hides of their -cattle so as to furnish saddles, bridles, pouches, and other articles of -leather. They are likewise sufficiently skilful to convert the native -iron, which they procure from the negroes, into spears and knives, and -also into pots for boiling their food; but their sabres, and other -weapons, as well as their firearms and ammunition, they purchase from the -Europeans, in exchange for the negro slaves which they obtain in their -predatory excursions. Their chief commerce of this kind is with the -French traders on the Senegal river. - -The Moors are rigid Mohammedans, and possess, with the bigotry and -superstition, all the intolerance of their sect. They have no mosques at -Benowm, but perform their devotions in a sort of open shed, or enclosure, -made of mats. The priest is, at the same time, schoolmaster to the -juniors. His pupils assemble every evening before his tent; where, by -the light of a large fire, made of brushwood and cow’s dung, they are -taught a few sentences from the Koran, and are initiated into the -principles of their creed. Their alphabet differs but little from that -in Richardson’s Arabic Grammar. They always write with the vowel points. -Their priests even affect to know something of foreign literature. The -priest of Benowm assured me that he could read the writings of the -Christians: he showed me a number of barbarous characters, which he -asserted were the Roman alphabet; and he produced another specimen, -equally unintelligible, which he declared to be the _Kallam il Indi_, or -Persian. His library consisted of nine volumes in quarto; most of them, -I believe, were books of religion—for the name of Mohammed appeared in -red letters in almost every page of each. His scholars wrote their -lessons upon thin boards, paper being too expensive for general use. The -boys were diligent enough, and appeared to possess a considerable share -of emulation—carrying their boards slung over their shoulders when about -their common employments. When a boy has committed to memory a few of -their prayers, and can read and write certain parts of the Koran, he is -reckoned sufficiently instructed; and with this slender stock of learning -commences his career of life. Proud of his acquirements, he surveys with -contempt the unlettered negro; and embraces every opportunity of -displaying his superiority over such of his countrymen as are not -distinguished by the same accomplishments. - -The education of the girls is neglected altogether: mental -accomplishments are but little attended to by the women; nor is the want -of them considered by the men as a defect in the female character. They -are regarded, I believe, as an inferior species of animals; and seem to -be brought up for no other purpose than that of administering to the -sensual pleasures of their imperious masters. Voluptuousness is -therefore considered as their chief accomplishment, and slavish -submission as their indispensable duty. - -The Moors have singular ideas of feminine perfection. The gracefulness -of figure and motion, and a countenance enlivened by expression, are by -no means essential points in their standard. With them corpulence and -beauty appear to be terms nearly synonymous. A woman of even moderate -pretensions must be one who cannot walk without a slave under each arm to -support her; and a perfect beauty is a load for a camel. In consequence -of this prevalent taste for unwieldiness of bulk, the Moorish ladies take -great pains to acquire it early in life; and for this purpose many of the -young girls are compelled by their mothers to devour a great quantity of -kouskous, and drink a large bowl of camel’s milk every morning. It is of -no importance whether the girl has an appetite or not; the kouskous and -milk must be swallowed, and obedience is frequently enforced by blows. I -have seen a poor girl sit crying, with the bowl at her lips, for more -than an hour, and her mother, with a stick in her hand, watching her all -the while, and using the stick without mercy whenever she observed that -her daughter was not swallowing. This singular practice, instead of -producing indigestion and disease, soon covers the young lady with that -degree of plumpness which, in the eye of a Moor, is perfection itself. - -As the Moors purchase all their clothing from the negroes, the women are -forced to be very economical in the article of dress. In general they -content themselves with a broad piece of cotton cloth, which is wrapped -round the middle, and hangs down like a petticoat almost to the ground. -To the upper part of this are sewed two square pieces, one before, and -the other behind, which are fastened together over the shoulders. The -head-dress is commonly a bandage of cotton cloth, with some parts of it -broader than others, which serve to conceal the face when they walk in -the sun. Frequently, however, when they go abroad, they veil themselves -from head to foot. - -The employment of the women varies according to their degrees of -opulence. Queen Fatima, and a few others of high rank, like the great -ladies in some parts of Europe, pass their time chiefly in conversing -with their visitors, performing their devotions, or admiring their charms -in a looking-glass. The women of inferior class employ themselves in -different domestic duties. They are very vain and talkative; and when -anything puts them out of humour they commonly vent their anger upon -their female slaves, over whom they rule with severe and despotic -authority, which leads me to observe that the condition of these poor -captives is deplorably wretched. At daybreak they are compelled to fetch -water from the wells in large skins, called _girbas_; and as soon as they -have brought water enough to serve the family for the day, as well as the -horses (for the Moors seldom give their horses the trouble of going to -the wells), they are then employed in pounding the corn and dressing the -victuals. This being always done in the open air, the slaves are exposed -to the combined heat of the sun, the sand, and the fire. In the -intervals it is their business to sweep the tent, churn the milk, and -perform other domestic offices. With all this they are badly fed, and -oftentimes cruelly punished. - -The men’s dress, among the Moors of Ludamar, differs but little from that -of the negroes, which has been already described, except that they have -all adopted that characteristic of the Mohammedan sect, the turban, which -is here universally made of white cotton cloth. Such of the Moors as -have long beards display them with a mixture of pride and satisfaction, -as denoting an Arab ancestry. Of this number was Ali himself; but among -the generality of the people the hair is short and busy, and universally -black. And here I may be permitted to observe, that if any one -circumstance excited among them favourable thoughts towards my own -person, it was my beard, which was now grown to an enormous length, and -was always beheld with approbation or envy. I believe, in my conscience, -they thought it too good a beard for a Christian. - -The only diseases which I observed to prevail among the Moors were the -intermittent fever and dysentery—for the cure of which nostrums are -sometimes administered by their old women, but in general nature is left -to her own operations. Mention was made to me of the small-pox as being -sometimes very destructive; but it had not, to my knowledge, made its -appearance in Ludamar while I was in captivity. That it prevails, -however, among some tribes of the Moors, and that it is frequently -conveyed by them to the negroes in the southern states, I was assured on -the authority of Dr. Laidley, who also informed me that the negroes on -the Gambia practise inoculation. - -The administration of criminal justice, as far as I had opportunities of -observing, was prompt and decisive: for although civil rights were but -little regarded in Ludamar, it was necessary when crimes were committed -that examples should sometimes be made. On such occasions the offender -was brought before Ali, who pronounced, of his sole authority, what -judgment he thought proper. But I understood that capital punishment was -seldom or never inflicted, except on the negroes. - -Although the wealth of the Moors consists chiefly in their numerous herds -of cattle, yet, as the pastoral life does not afford full employment, the -majority of the people are perfectly idle, and spend the day in trifling -conversation about their horses, or in laying schemes of depredation on -the negro villages. - -Of the number of Ali’s Moorish subjects I had no means of forming a -correct estimate. The military strength of Ludamar consists in cavalry. -They are well mounted, and appear to be very expert in skirmishing and -attacking by surprise. Every soldier furnishes his own horse, and finds -his accoutrements, consisting of a large sabre, a double-barrelled gun, a -small red leather bag for holding his balls, and a powder bag slung over -the shoulder. He has no pay, nor any remuneration but what arises from -plunder. This body is not very numerous; for when Ali made war upon -Bambarra I was informed that his whole force did not exceed two thousand -cavalry. They constitute, however, by what I could learn, but a very -small proportion of his Moorish subjects. The horses are very beautiful, -and so highly esteemed that the negro princes will sometimes give from -twelve to fourteen slaves for one horse. - -Ludamar has for its northern boundary the great desert of Sahara. From -the best inquiries I could make, this vast ocean of sand, which occupies -so large a space in northern Africa, may be pronounced almost destitute -of inhabitants, except where the scanty vegetation which appears in -certain spots affords pasturage for the flocks of a few miserable Arabs, -who wander from one well to another. In other places, where the supply -of water and pasturage is more abundant, small parties of the Moors have -taken up their residence. Here they live, in independent poverty, secure -from the tyrannical government of Barbary. But the greater part of the -desert, being totally destitute of water, is seldom visited by any human -being, unless where the trading caravans trace out their toilsome and -dangerous route across it. In some parts of this extensive waste the -ground is covered with low stunted shrubs, which serve as landmarks for -the caravans, and furnish the camels with a scanty forage. In other -parts the disconsolate wanderer, wherever he turns, sees nothing around -him but a vast interminable expanse of sand and sky—a gloomy and barren -void, where the eye finds no particular object to rest upon, and the mind -is filled with painful apprehensions of perishing with thirst. - -The few wild animals which inhabit these melancholy regions are the -antelope and the ostrich; their swiftness of foot enabling them to reach -the distant watering-places. On the skirts of the desert, where water is -more plentiful, are found lions, panthers, elephants, and wild bears. - -Of domestic animals, the only one that can endure the fatigue of crossing -the desert is the camel. By the particular conformation of the stomach -he is enabled to carry a supply of water sufficient for ten or twelve -days; his broad and yielding foot is well adapted for a sandy country; -and, by a singular motion of his upper lip, he picks the smallest leaves -from the thorny shrubs of the desert as he passes along. The camel is -therefore the only beast of burden employed by the trading caravans which -traverse the desert in different directions, from Barbary to Nigritia. -As this useful and docile creature has been sufficiently described by -systematical writers it is unnecessary for me to enlarge upon his -properties. I shall only add that his flesh, though to my own taste dry -and unsavoury, is preferred by the Moors to any other; and that the milk -of the female is in universal esteem, and is indeed sweet, pleasant, and -nutritive. - -I have observed that the Moors, in their complexion, resemble the -mulattoes of the West Indies; but they have something unpleasant in their -aspect which the mulattoes have not. I fancied that I discovered in the -features of most of them a disposition towards cruelty and low cunning; -and I could never contemplate their physiognomy without feeling sensible -uneasiness. From the staring wildness of their eyes a stranger would -immediately set them down as a nation of lunatics. The treachery and -malevolence of their character are manifest in their plundering -excursions against the negro villages. Oftentimes without the smallest -provocation, and sometimes under the fairest professions of friendship, -they will suddenly seize upon the negroes’ cattle, and even on the -inhabitants themselves. The negroes very seldom retaliate. - -Like the roving Arabs, the Moors frequently remove from one place to -another, according to the season of the year or the convenience of -pasturage. In the month of February, when the heat of the sun scorches -up every sort of vegetation in the desert, they strike their tents and -approach the negro country to the south, where they reside until the -rains commence, in the month of July. At this time, having purchased -corn and other necessaries from the negroes, in exchange for salt, they -again depart to the northward, and continue in the desert until the rains -are over, and that part of the country becomes burnt up and barren. - -This wandering and restless way of life, while it inures them to -hardships, strengthens at the same time the bonds of their little -society, and creates in them an aversion towards strangers which is -almost insurmountable. Cut off from all intercourse with civilised -nations, and boasting an advantage over the negroes, by possessing, -though in a very limited degree, the knowledge of letters, they are at -once the vainest and proudest, and perhaps the most bigoted, ferocious, -and intolerant of all the nations on the earth—combining in their -character the blind superstition of the negro with the savage cruelty and -treachery of the Arab. - - - - -CHAPTER XIII. -ESCAPE FROM CAPTIVITY. - - -HAVING, as hath been related, obtained permission to accompany Ali to -Jarra, I took leave of Queen Fatima, who, with much grace and civility, -returned me part of my apparel; and the evening before my departure, my -horse, with the saddle and bridle, were sent me by Ali’s order. - -Early on the morning of the 26th of May I departed from the camp of -Bubaker, accompanied by my two attendants, Johnson and Demba, and a -number of Moors on horseback, Ali, with about fifty horsemen, having gone -privately from the camp during the night. We stopped about noon at -Farani, and were there joined by twelve Moors riding upon camels, and -with them we proceeded to a watering-place in the woods, where we -overtook Ali and his fifty horsemen. They were lodged in some low -shepherd’s tents near the wells. - -_May_ 28.—Early in the morning the Moors saddled their horses, and Ali’s -chief slave ordered me to get in readiness. In a little time the same -messenger returned, and, taking my boy by the shoulder, told him in the -Mandingo language, that “Ali was to be his master in future;” and then -turning to me, “The business is settled at last,” said he; “the boy, and -everything but your horse, goes back to Bubaker, but you may take the old -fool” (meaning Johnson the interpreter) “with you to Jarra.” I made him -no answer; but being shocked beyond description at the idea of losing the -poor boy, I hastened to Ali, who was at breakfast before his tent, -surrounded by many of his courtiers. I told him (perhaps in rather too -passionate a strain), that whatever imprudence I had been guilty of in -coming into his country, I thought I had already been sufficiently -punished for it by being so long detained, and then plundered of all my -little property; which, however, gave me no uneasiness when compared with -what he had just now done to me. I observed that the boy whom he had now -seized upon was not a slave, and had been accused of no offence; he was, -indeed, one of my attendants, and his faithful services in that station -had procured him his freedom. His fidelity and attachment had made him -fellow me into my present situation, and, as he looked up to me for -protection I could not see him deprived of his liberty without -remonstrating against such an act as the height of cruelty and injustice. -Ali made no reply, but, with a haughty air and malignant smile, told his -interpreter that if I did not mount my horse immediately he would send me -back likewise. There is something in the frown of a tyrant which rouses -the most secret emotions of the heart: I could not suppress my feelings, -and for once entertained an indignant wish to rid the world of such a -monster. - -Poor Demba was not less affected than myself. He had formed a strong -attachment towards me, and had a cheerfulness of disposition which often -beguiled the tedious hours of captivity. He was likewise a proficient in -the Bambarra tongue, and promised on that account to be of great utility -to me in future. But it was in vain to expect anything favourable to -humanity from people who are strangers to its dictates. So, having -shaken hands with this unfortunate boy, and blended my tears with his, -assuring him, however, that I would do my utmost to redeem him, I saw him -led off by three of Ali’s slaves towards the camp at Bubaker. - -When the Moors had mounted their horses I was ordered to follow them, -and, after a toilsome journey through the woods in a very sultry day, we -arrived in the afternoon at a walled village called Doombani, where we -remained two days, waiting for the arrival of some horsemen from the -northward. - -On the 1st of June we departed from Doombani towards Jarra. Our company -now amounted to two hundred men, all on horseback, for the Moors never -use infantry in their wars. They appeared capable of enduring great -fatigue; but from their total want of discipline our journey to Jarra was -more like a fox-chase than the march of an army. - -At Jarra I took up my lodging at the house of my old acquaintance, Daman -Jumma, and informed him of everything that had befallen me. I -particularly requested him to use his interest with Ali to redeem my boy, -and promised him a bill upon Dr. Laidley for the value of two slaves the -moment he brought him to Jarra. Daman very readily undertook to -negotiate the business, but found that Ali considered the boy as my -principal interpreter, and was unwilling to part with him, lest he should -fall a second time into my hands, and be instrumental in conducting me to -Bambarra. Ali, therefore, put off the matter from day to day, but withal -told Daman that if he wished to purchase the boy for himself he should -have him thereafter at the common price of a slave, which Daman agreed to -pay for him whenever Ali should send him to Jarra. - -The chief object of Ali, in this journey to Jarra, as I have already -related, was to procure money from such of the Kaartans as had taken -refuge in his country. Some of these had solicited his protection to -avoid the horrors of war, but by far the greatest number of them were -dissatisfied men, who wished the ruin of their own sovereign. These -people no sooner heard that the Bambarra army had returned to Sego -without subduing Daisy, as was generally expected, than they resolved to -make a sudden attack themselves upon him before he could recruit his -forces, which were now known to be much diminished by a bloody campaign, -and in great want of provisions. With this view they solicited the Moors -to join them, and offered to hire of Ali two hundred horsemen, which Ali, -with the warmest professions of friendship, agreed to furnish, upon -condition that they should previously supply him with four hundred head -of cattle, two hundred garments of blue cloth, and a considerable -quantity of beads and ornaments. - -_June_ 8.—In the afternoon Ali sent his chief slave to inform me that he -was about to return to Bubaker: but as he would only stay there a few -days to keep the approaching festival (_Banna selee_), and then return to -Jarra, I had permission to remain with Daman until his return. This was -joyful news to me; but I had experienced so many disappointments that I -was unwilling to indulge the hope of its being true, until Johnson came -and told me that Ali, with part of the horsemen, were actually gone from -the town, and that the rest were to follow him in the morning. - -_June_ 9.—Early in the morning the remainder of the Moors departed from -the town. They had, during their stay, committed many acts of robbery; -and this morning with the most unparalleled audacity, they seized upon -three girls who were bringing water from the wells, and carried them away -into slavery. - -_June_ 12.—Two people, dreadfully wounded, were discovered at a -watering-place in the woods; one of them had just breathed his last, but -the other was brought alive to Jarra. On recovering a little he informed -the people that he had fled through the woods from Kasson; that Daisy had -made war upon Sambo, the king of that country; had surprised three of his -towns, and put all the inhabitants to the sword. He enumerated by name -many of the friends of the Jarra people who had been murdered in Kasson. -This intelligence made the death-howl universal in Jarra for the space of -two days. - -This piece of bad news was followed by another not less distressing. A -number of runaway slaves arrived from Kaarta on the 14th, and reported -that Daisy, having received information concerning the intended attack -upon him, was about to visit Jarra. This made the negroes call upon Ali -for the two hundred horsemen which he was to furnish them according to -engagement. But Ali paid very little attention to their remonstrances, -and at last plainly told them that his cavalry were otherwise employed. -The negroes, thus deserted by the Moors, and fully apprised that the king -of Kaarta would show them as little clemency as he had shown the -inhabitants of Kasson, resolved to collect all their forces, and hazard a -battle before the king, who was now in great distress for want of -provisions, should become too powerful for them. They therefore -assembled about eight hundred effective men in the whole, and with these -they entered Kaarta on the evening of the 18th of June. - -_June_ 19.—This morning the wind shifted to the south-west; and about two -o’clock in the afternoon we had a heavy tornado, or thunder-squall, -accompanied with rain, which greatly revived the face of nature, and gave -a pleasant coolness to the air. This was the first rain that had fallen -for many months. - -As every attempt to redeem my boy had hitherto been unsuccessful, and in -all probability would continue to prove so whilst I remained in the -country, I found that it was necessary for me to come to some -determination concerning my own safety before the rains should be fully -set in; for my landlord, seeing no likelihood of being paid for his -trouble, began to wish me away—and Johnson, my interpreter, refusing to -proceed, my situation became very perplexing. I determined to avail -myself of the first opportunity of escaping, and to proceed directly for -Bambarra, as soon as the rains had set in for a few days, so as to afford -me the certainty of finding water in the woods. - -Such was my situation when, on the evening of the 24th of June, I was -startled by the report of some muskets close to the town, and inquiring -the reason, was informed that the Jarra army had returned from fighting -Daisy, and that this firing was by way of rejoicing. However, when the -chief men of the town had assembled, and heard a full detail of the -expedition, they were by no means relieved from their uneasiness on -Daisy’s account. The deceitful Moors having drawn back from the -confederacy, after being hired by the negroes, greatly dispirited the -insurgents, who, instead of finding Daisy with a few friends concealed in -the strong fortress of Gedingooma, had found him at a town near Joka, in -the open country, surrounded by so numerous an army that every attempt to -attack him was at once given up; and the confederates only thought of -enriching themselves by the plunder of the small towns in the -neighbourhood. They accordingly fell upon one of Daisy’s towns, and -carried off the whole of the inhabitants; but lest intelligence of this -might reach Daisy, and induce him to cut off their retreat, they returned -through the woods by night bringing with them the slaves and cattle which -they had captured. - -_June_ 26.—This afternoon a spy from Kaarta brought the alarming -intelligence that Daisy had taken Simbing in the morning, and would be in -Jarra some time in the course of the ensuing day. Early in the morning -nearly one-half of the townspeople took the road for Bambarra, by the way -of Deena. - -Their departure was very affecting, the women and children crying, the -men sullen and dejected, and all of them looking back with regret on -their native town, and on the wells and rocks beyond which their ambition -had never tempted them to stray, and where they had laid all their plans -of future happiness, all of which they were now forced to abandon, and to -seek shelter among strangers. - -_June_ 27.—About eleven o’clock in the forenoon we were alarmed by the -sentinels, who brought information that Daisy was on his march towards -Jarra, and that the confederate army had fled before him without firing a -gun. The terror of the townspeople on this occasion is not easily to be -described. Indeed, the screams of the women and children, and the great -hurry and confusion that everywhere prevailed, made me suspect that the -Kaartans had already entered the town; and although I had every reason to -be pleased with Daisy’s behaviour to me when I was at Kemmoo, I had no -wish to expose myself to the mercy of his army, who might in the general -confusion mistake me for a Moor. I therefore mounted my horse, and -taking a large bag of corn before me, rode slowly along with the -townspeople, until we reached the foot of a rocky hill, where I -dismounted and drove my horse up before me. When I had reached the -summit I sat down, and having a full view of the town and the -neighbouring country, could not help lamenting the situation of the poor -inhabitants, who were thronging after me, driving their sheep, cows, -goats, &c., and carrying a scanty portion of provisions and a few -clothes. There was a great noise and crying everywhere upon the road, -for many aged people and children were unable to walk, and these, with -the sick, were obliged to be carried, otherwise they must have been left -to certain destruction. - -About five o’clock we arrived at a small farm belonging to the Jarra -people, called Kadeeja; and here I found Daman and Johnson employed in -filling large bags of corn, to be carried upon bullocks, to serve as -provisions for Daman’s family on the road. - -_June_ 28.—At daybreak we departed from Kadeeja, and having passed -Troongoomba without stopping, arrived in the afternoon at Queira. I -remained here two days, in order to recruit my horse, which the Moors had -reduced to a perfect Rosinante, and to wait for the arrival of some -Mandingo negroes, who were going for Bambarra in the course of a few -days. - -On the afternoon of the 1st of July, as I was tending my horse in the -fields, Ali’s chief slave and four Moors arrived at Queira, and took up -their lodging at the dooty’s house. My interpreter, Johnson, who -suspected the nature of this visit, sent two boys to overhear their -conversation, from which he learnt that they were sent to convey me back -to Bubaker. The same evening two of the Moors came privately to look at -my horse, and one of them proposed taking it to the dooty’s hut, but the -other observed that such a precaution was unnecessary, as I could never -escape upon such an animal. They then inquired where I slept, and -returned to their companions. - -All this was like a stroke of thunder to me, for I dreaded nothing so -much as confinement again among the Moors, from whose barbarity I had -nothing but death to expect. I therefore determined to set off -immediately for Bambarra, a measure which I thought offered almost the -only chance of saving my life and gaining the object of my mission. I -communicated the design to Johnson, who, although he applauded my -resolution, was so far from showing any inclination to accompany me, that -he solemnly protested he would rather forfeit his wages than go any -farther. He told me that Daman had agreed to give him half the price of -a slave for his service to assist in conducting a coffle of slaves to -Gambia, and that he was determined to embrace the opportunity of -returning to his wife and family. - -Having no hopes, therefore, of persuading him to accompany me, I resolved -to proceed by myself. About midnight I got my clothes in readiness, -which consisted of two shirts, two pairs of trousers, two -pocket-handkerchiefs, an upper and under waistcoat, a mat, and a pair of -half-boots; these, with a cloak, constituted my whole wardrobe. And I -had not one single bead, nor any other article of value in my possession, -to purchase victuals for myself or corn for my horse. - -About daybreak, Johnson, who had been listening to the Moors all night, -came and whispered to me that they were asleep. The awful crisis was now -arrived when I was again either to taste the blessing of freedom or -languish out my days in captivity. A cold sweat moistened my forehead as -I thought on the dreadful alternative, and reflected that, one way or -another, my fate must be decided in the course of the ensuing day. But -to deliberate was to lose the only chance of escaping. So, taking up my -bundle, I stepped gently over the negroes, who were sleeping in the open -air, and having mounted my horse, I bade Johnson farewell, desiring him -to take particular care of the papers I had entrusted him with, and -inform my friends in Gambia that he had left me in good health, on my way -to Bambarra. - -I proceeded with great caution, surveying each bush, and frequently -listening and looking behind me for the Moorish horsemen, until I was -about a mile from the town, when I was surprised to find myself in the -neighbourhood of a korree belonging to the Moors. The shepherds followed -me for about a mile, hooting and throwing stones after me; and when I was -out of their reach, and had begun to indulge the pleasing hopes of -escaping, I was again greatly alarmed to hear somebody holloa behind me, -and looking back, I saw three Moors on horseback, coming after me at full -speed, whooping and brandishing their double-barrelled guns. I knew it -was in vain to think of escaping, and therefore turned back and met them, -when two of them caught hold of my bridle, one on each side, and the -third, presenting his musket, told me I must go back to Ali. When the -human mind has for some time been fluctuating between hope and despair, -tortured with anxiety, and hurried from one extreme to another, it -affords a sort of gloomy relief to know the worst that can possibly -happen. Such was my situation. An indifference about life and all its -enjoyments had completely benumbed my faculties, and I rode back with the -Moors with apparent unconcern. But a change took place much sooner than -I had any reason to expect. In passing through some thick bushes one of -the Moors ordered me to untie my bundle and show them the contents. -Having examined the different articles, they found nothing worth taking -except my cloak, which they considered as a very valuable acquisition, -and one of them pulling it from me, wrapped it about himself, and, with -one of his companions, rode off with their prize. When I attempted to -follow them, the third, who had remained with me, struck my horse over -the head, and presenting his musket, told me I should proceed no farther. -I now perceived that these men had not been sent by any authority to -apprehend me, but had pursued me solely with a view to rob and plunder -me. Turning my horse’s head, therefore, once more towards the east, and -observing the Moor follow the track of his confederates, I congratulated -myself on having escaped with my life, though in great distress, from -such a horde of barbarians. - -I was no sooner out of sight of the Moor than I struck into the woods to -prevent being pursued, and kept pushing on with all possible speed, until -I found myself near some high rocks, which I remembered to have seen in -my former route from Queira to Deena and, directing my course a little to -the northward, I fortunately fell in with the path. - - - - -CHAPTER XIV. -JOURNEY CONTINUED; ARRIVAL AT WAWRA. - - -IT is impossible to describe the joy that arose in my mind when I looked -around and concluded that I was out of danger. I felt like one recovered -from sickness; I breathed freer; I found unusual lightness in my limbs; -even the desert looked pleasant; and I dreaded nothing so much as falling -in with some wandering parties of Moors, who might convey me back to the -land of thieves and murderers from which I had just escaped. - -I soon became sensible, however, that my situation was very deplorable, -for I had no means of procuring food nor prospect of finding water. -About ten o’clock, perceiving a herd of goats feeding close to the road, -I took a circuitous route to avoid being seen, and continued travelling -through the wilderness, directing my course by compass nearly -east-south-east, in order to reach as soon as possible some town or -village of the kingdom of Bambarra. - -A little after noon, when the burning heat of the sun was reflected with -double violence from the hot sand, and the distant ridges of the hills, -seen through the ascending vapour, seemed to wave and fluctuate like the -unsettled sea, I became faint with thirst, and climbed a tree in hopes of -seeing distant smoke, or some other appearance of a human habitation—but -in vain: nothing appeared all around but thick underwood and hillocks of -white sand. - -About four o’clock I came suddenly upon a large herd of goats, and -pulling my horse into a bush, I watched to observe if the keepers were -Moors or negroes. In a little time I perceived two Moorish boys, and -with some difficulty persuaded them to approach me. They informed me -that the herd belonged to Ali, and that they were going to Deena, where -the water was more plentiful, and where they intended to stay until the -rain had filled the pools in the desert. They showed me their empty -water-skins, and told me that they had seen no water in the woods. This -account afforded me but little consolation; however, it was in vain to -repine, and I pushed on as fast as possible, in hopes of reaching some -watering-place in the course of the night. My thirst was by this time -become insufferable; my mouth was parched and inflamed; a sudden dimness -would frequently come over my eyes, with other symptoms of fainting; and -my horse being very much fatigued, I began seriously to apprehend that I -should perish of thirst. To relieve the burning pain in my mouth and -throat I chewed the leaves of different shrubs, but found them all -bitter, and of no service to me. - -A little before sunset, having reached the top of a gentle rising, I -climbed a high tree, from the topmost branches of which I cast a -melancholy look over the barren wilderness, but without discovering the -most distant trace of a human dwelling. The same dismal uniformity of -shrubs and sand everywhere presented itself, and the horizon was as level -and uninterrupted as that of the sea. - -Descending from the tree, I found my horse devouring the stubble and -brushwood with great avidity; and as I was now too faint to attempt -walking, and my horse too much fatigued to carry me I thought it but an -act of humanity, and perhaps the last I should ever have it in my power -to perform, to take off his bridle and let him shift for himself, in -doing which I was suddenly affected with sickness and giddiness, and -falling upon the sand, felt as if the hour of death was fast approaching. -Here, then, thought I, after a short but ineffectual struggle, terminate -all my hopes of being useful in my day and generation; here must the -short span of my life come to an end. I cast, as I believed, a last look -on the surrounding scene, and whilst I reflected on the awful change that -was about to take place, this world with its enjoyment seemed to vanish -from my recollection. Nature, however, at length resumed its functions, -and on recovering my senses, I found myself stretched upon the sand, with -the bridle still in my hand, and the sun just sinking behind the trees. -I now summoned all my resolution, and determined to make another effort -to prolong my existence; and as the evening was somewhat cool, I resolved -to travel as far as my limbs would carry me, in hopes of reaching—my only -resource—a watering-place. With this view I put the bridle on my horse, -and driving him before me, went slowly along for about an hour, when I -perceived some lightning from the north-east—a most delightful sight, for -it promised rain. The darkness and lightning increased very rapidly, and -in less than an hour I heard the wind roaring among the bushes. I had -already opened my mouth to receive the refreshing drops which I expected, -but I was instantly covered with a cloud of sand, driven with such force -by the wind as to give a very disagreeable sensation to my face and arms, -and I was obliged to mount my horse and stop under a bush to prevent -being suffocated. The sand continued to fly in amazing quantities for -nearly an hour, after which I again set forward, and travelled with -difficulty until ten o’clock. About this time I was agreeably surprised -by some very vivid flashes of lightning, followed by a few heavy drops of -rain. In a little time the sand ceased to fly, and I alighted and spread -out all my clean clothes to collect the rain, which at length I saw would -certainly fall. For more than an hour it rained plentifully, and I -quenched my thirst by wringing and sucking my clothes. - -There being no moon, it was remarkably dark, so that I was obliged to -lead my horse, and direct my way by the compass, which the lightning -enabled me to observe. In this manner I travelled with tolerable -expedition until past midnight, when the lightning becoming more distant, -I was under the necessity of groping along, to the no small danger of my -hands and eyes. About two o’clock my horse started at something, and -looking round, I was not a little surprised to see a light at a short -distance among the trees; and supposing it to be a town, I groped along -the sand in hopes of finding corn-stalks, cotton, or other appearances of -cultivation, but found none. As I approached I perceived a number of -other lights in different places, and began to suspect that I had fallen -upon a party of Moors. However, in my present situation, I was resolved -to see who they were, if I could do it with safety. I accordingly led my -horse cautiously towards the light, and heard by the lowing of the cattle -and the clamorous tongues of the herdsmen, that it was a watering-place, -and most likely belonged to the Moors. Delightful as the sound of the -human voice was to me, I resolved once more to strike into the woods, and -rather run the risk of perishing of hunger than trust myself again in -their hands; but being still thirsty, and dreading the approach of the -burning day, I thought it prudent to search for the wells, which I -expected to find at no great distance. - -In this purpose I inadvertently approached so near to one of the tents as -to be perceived by a woman, who immediately screamed out. Two people -came running to her assistance from some of the neighbouring tents, and -passed so very near to me that I thought I was discovered, and hastened -again into the woods. - -About a mile from this place I heard a loud and confused noise somewhere -to the right of my course, and in a short time was happy to find it was -the croaking of frogs, which was heavenly music to my ears. I followed -the sound, and at daybreak arrived at some shallow muddy pools, so full -of frogs, that it was difficult to discern the water. The noise they -made frightened my horse, and I was obliged to keep them quiet, by -beating the water with a branch, until he had drunk. Having here -quenched my thirst, I ascended a tree, and the morning being calm, I soon -perceived the smoke of the watering-place which I had passed in the -night, and observed another pillar of smoke east-south-east, distant -twelve or fourteen miles. Towards this I directed my route, and reached -the cultivated ground a little before eleven o’clock, where, seeing a -number of negroes at work planting corn, I inquired the name of the town, -and was informed that it was a Foulah village belonging to Ali, called -Shrilla. I had now some doubts about entering it; but my horse being -very much fatigued, and the day growing hot—not to mention the pangs of -hunger, which began to assail me—I resolved to venture; and accordingly -rode up to the dooty’s house, where I was unfortunately denied -admittance, and could not obtain oven a handful of corn either for myself -or horse. Turning from this inhospitable door, I rode slowly out of the -town, and, perceiving some low, scattered huts without the walls, I -directed my route towards them, knowing that in Africa, as well as in -Europe, hospitality does not always prefer the highest dwellings. At the -door of one of these huts an old motherly-looking woman sat, spinning -cotton. I made signs to her that I was hungry, and inquired if she had -any victuals with her in the hut. She immediately laid down her distaff, -and desired me, in Arabic, to come in. When I had seated myself upon the -floor, she set before me a dish of kouskous that had been left the -preceding night, of which I made a tolerable meal; and in return for this -kindness I gave her one of my pocket-handkerchiefs, begging at the same -time a little corn for my horse, which she readily brought me. - -Whilst my horse was feeding the people began to assemble, and one of them -whispered something to my hostess which very much excited her surprise. -Though I was not well acquainted with the Foulah language, I soon -discovered that some of the men wished to apprehend and carry me back to -Ali, in hopes, I suppose, of receiving a reward. I therefore tied up the -corn; and lest any one should suspect I had run away from the Moors, I -took a northerly direction, and went cheerfully along, driving my horse -before me, followed by all the boys and girls of the town. When I had -travelled about two miles, and got quit of all my troublesome attendants, -I struck again into the woods, and took shelter under a large tree, where -I found it necessary to rest myself, a bundle of twigs serving me for a -bed, and my saddle for a pillow. - -_July_ 4.—At daybreak I pursued my course through the woods as formerly; -saw numbers of antelopes, wild hogs, and ostriches, but the soil was more -hilly, and not so fertile as I had found it the preceding day. About -eleven o’clock I ascended an eminence, where I climbed a tree, and -discovered, at about eight miles’ distance, an open part of the country, -with several red spots, which I concluded were cultivated land, and, -directing my course that way, came to the precincts of a watering-place -about one o’clock. From the appearance of the place, I judged it to -belong to the Foulahs, and was hopeful that I should meet a better -reception than I had experienced at Shrilla. In this I was not deceived, -for one of the shepherds invited me to come into his tent and partake of -some dates. This was one of those low Foulah tents in which there is -room just sufficient to sit upright, and in which the family, the -furniture, &c., seem huddled together like so many articles in a chest. -When I had crept upon my hands and knees into this humble habitation, I -found that it contained a woman and three children, who, together with -the shepherd and myself, completely occupied the floor. A dish of boiled -corn and dates was produced, and the master of the family, as is -customary in this part of the country, first tasted it himself, and then -desired me to follow his example. Whilst I was eating, the children kept -their eyes fixed upon me, and no sooner did the shepherd pronounce the -word _Nazarani_, than they began to cry, and their mother crept slowly -towards the door, out of which she sprang like a greyhound, and was -instantly followed by her children. So frightened were they at the very -name of a Christian, that no entreaties could induce them to approach the -tent. Here I purchased some corn for my horse, in exchange for some -brass buttons, and having thanked the shepherd for his hospitality, -struck again into the woods. At sunset I came to a road that took the -direction for Bambarra, and resolved to follow it for the night; but -about eight o’clock, hearing some people coming from the southward, I -thought it prudent to hide myself among some thick bushes near the road. -As these thickets are generally full of wild beasts, I found my situation -rather unpleasant, sitting in the dark, holding my horse by the nose with -both hands, to prevent him from neighing, and equally afraid of the -natives without and the wild beasts within. My fears, however, were soon -dissipated; for the people, after looking round the thicket, and -perceiving nothing, went away, and I hastened to the more open parts of -the wood, where I pursued my journey east-south-east, until past -midnight, when the joyful cry of frogs induced me once more to deviate a -little from my route, in order to quench my thirst. Having accomplished -this from a large pool of rain-water, I sought for an open place, with a -single tree in the midst, under which I made my bed for the night. I was -disturbed by some wolves towards morning, which induced me to set forward -a little before day; and having passed a small village called Wassalita, -I came about ten o’clock (July 5th), to a negro town called Wawra, which -properly belongs to Kaarta, but was at this time tributary to Mansong, -King of Bambarra. - - - - -CHAPTER XV. -NEGRO CURIOSITY; A MESSAGE FROM THE KING. - - -WAWRA is a small town surrounded with high walls, and inhabited by a -mixture of Mandingoes and Foulahs. The inhabitants employ themselves -chiefly in cultivating corn, which they exchange with the Moors for salt. -Here, being in security from the Moors, and very much fatigued, I -resolved to rest myself; and meeting with a hearty welcome from the -dooty, whose name was Flancharee, I laid myself down upon a bullock’s -hide, and slept soundly for about two hours. The curiosity of the people -would not allow me to sleep any longer. They had seen my saddle and -bridle, and were assembled in great numbers to learn who I was and whence -I came. Some were of opinion that I was an Arab; others insisted that I -was some Moorish Sultan, and they continued to debate the matter with -such warmth that the noise awoke me. The dooty (who had formerly been at -Gambia) at last interposed in my behalf, and assured them that I was -certainly a white man; but he was convinced from my appearance that I was -a poor one. - -_July_ 6.—It rained very much in the night, and at daylight I departed in -company with a negro who was going to a town called Dingyee for corn; but -we had not proceeded above a mile before the ass upon which he rode threw -him off, and he returned, leaving me to prosecute the journey by myself. - -I reached Dingyee about noon, but the dooty and most of the inhabitants -had gone into the fields to cultivate corn. An old Foulah, observing me -wandering about the town, desired me to come to his hut, where I was well -entertained; and the dooty, when he returned, sent me some victuals for -myself and corn for my horse. - -_July_ 7.—In the morning, when I was about to depart, my landlord, with a -great deal of diffidence, begged me to give him a lock of my hair. He -had been told, he said, that white men’s hair made a saphie that would -give to the possessor all the knowledge of white men. I had never before -heard of so simple a mode of education, but instantly complied with the -request. - -I reached a small town called Wassiboo, about twelve o’clock, where I was -obliged to stop until an opportunity should offer of procuring a guide to -Satilé, which is distant a very long day’s journey, through woods without -any beaten path. I accordingly took up my residence at the dooty’s -house, where I stayed four days, during which time I amused myself by -going to the fields with the family to plant corn. Cultivation is -carried on here on a very extensive scale; and, as the natives themselves -express it, “Hunger is never known.” In cultivating the soil the men and -women work together. They use a large sharp hoe, much superior to that -used in Gambia, but they are obliged, for fear of the Moors, to carry -their arms with them to the field. The master, with the handle of his -spear, marks the field into regular plats, one of which is assigned to -every three slaves. - -On the evening of the 11th eight of the fugitive Kaartans arrived at -Wassiboo. They had found it impossible to live under the tyrannical -government of the Moors, and were now going to transfer their allegiance -to the King of Bambarra. They offered to take me along with them as far -as Satilé, and I accepted the offer. - -_July_ 12.—At daybreak we set out, and travelled with uncommon expedition -until sunset. We stopped only twice in the course of the day, once at a -watering-place in the woods, and at another time at the ruins of a town -formerly belonging to Daisy, called _Illa-compe_ (the corn-town). When -we arrived in the neighbourhood of Satilé, the people who were employed -in the corn-fields, seeing so many horsemen, took us for a party of -Moors, and ran screaming away from us. The whole town was instantly -alarmed, and the slaves were seen in every direction driving the cattle -and horses towards the town. It was in vain that one of our company -galloped up to undeceive them; it only frightened them the more; and when -we arrived at the town we found the gates shut, and the people all under -arms. After a long parley we were permitted to enter, and, as there was -every appearance of a tornado, the dooty allowed us to sleep in his -_baloon_, and gave us each a bullock’s hide for a bed. - -_July_ 13.—Early in the morning we again set forward. The roads were wet -and slippery, but the country was very beautiful, abounding with -rivulets, which were increased by the rain into rapid streams. About ten -o’clock we came to-the rains of a village which had been destroyed by war -about six months before. - -About noon my horse was so much fatigued that I could not keep up with my -companions; I therefore dismounted, and desired them to ride on, telling -them that I would follow as soon as my horse had rested a little. But I -found them unwilling to leave me; the lions, they said, were very -numerous in those parts, and though they might not so readily attack a -body of people, they would soon find out an individual; it was therefore -agreed that one of the company should stay with me to assist in driving -my horse, while the others passed on to Galloo to procure lodgings, and -collect grass for the horses before night. Accompanied by this worthy -negro, I drove my horse before me until about four o’clock, when we came -in sight of Galloo, a considerable town, standing in a fertile and -beautiful valley surrounded with high rocks. - -Early next morning (July 14th), having first returned many thanks to our -landlord for his hospitality, while my fellow-travellers offered up their -prayers that he might never want, we set forward, and about three o’clock -arrived at Moorja, a large town, famous for its trade in salt, which the -Moors bring here in great quantities, to exchange for corn and cotton -cloth. As most of the people here are Mohammedans, it is not allowed to -the kafirs to drink beer, which they call _neodollo_ (corn spirit), -except in certain houses. In one of these I saw about twenty people -sitting round large vessels of this beer with the greatest conviviality, -many of them in a state of intoxication. - -On the morning of the 16th we again set forward, accompanied by a coffle -of fourteen asses, loaded with salt, bound for Sansanding. The road was -particularly romantic, between two rocky hills; but the Moors sometimes -lie in wait here to plunder strangers. As soon as we had reached the -open country the master of the salt coffle thanked us for having stayed -with him so long, and now desired us to ride on. The sun was almost set -before we reached Datliboo. In the evening we had a most tremendous -tornado. The house in which we lodged being flat-roofed, admitted the -rain in streams; the floor was soon ankle-deep, the fire extinguished, -and we were left to pass the night upon some bundles of firewood that -happened to lie in a corner. - -_July_ 17.—We departed from Datliboo, and about ten o’clock passed a -large coffle returning from Sego with corn-hoes, mats, and other -household utensils. At five o’clock we came to a large village where we -intended to pass the night, but the dooty would not receive us. When we -departed from this place my horse was so much fatigued that I was under -the necessity of driving him, and it was dark before we reached Fanimboo, -a small village, the dooty of which no sooner heard that I was a white -man than he brought out three old muskets, and was much disappointed when -he was told that I could not repair them. - -_July_ 18.—We continued our journey, but, owing to a light supper the -preceding night we felt ourselves rather hungry this morning, and -endeavoured to procure some corn at a village, but without success. - -My horse becoming weaker and weaker every day, was now of very little -service to me; I was obliged to drive him before me for the greater part -of the day, and did not reach Geosorro until eight o’clock in the -evening. I found my companions wrangling with the dooty, who had -absolutely refused to give or sell them any provisions; and as none of us -had tasted victuals for the last twenty-four hours, we were by no means -disposed to fast another day if we could help it. But finding our -entreaties without effect, and being very much fatigued, I fell asleep, -from which I was awakened about midnight with the joyful information -_Kinne nata_! (“The victuals are come”) This made the remainder of the -night pass away pleasantly, and at daybreak, July 19th, we resumed our -journey, proposing to stop at a village called Doolinkeaboo for the night -following. My fellow-travellers, having better horses than myself, soon -left me, and I was walking barefoot, driving my horse, when I was met by -a coffle of slaves, about seventy in number, coming from Sego. They were -tied together by their necks with thongs of a bullock’s hide, twisted -like a rope—seven slaves upon a thong, and a man with a musket between -every seven. Many of the slaves were ill-conditioned, and a great number -of them women. In the rear came Sidi Mahomed’s servant, whom I -remembered to have seen at the camp of Benowm. He presently knew me, and -told me that these slaves were going to Morocco by the way of Ludamar and -the Great Desert. - -In the afternoon, as I approached Doolinkeaboo, I met about twenty Moors -on horseback, the owners of the slaves I had seen in the morning. They -were well armed with muskets, and were very inquisitive concerning me, -but not so rude as their countrymen generally are. From them I learned -that Sidi Mahomed was not at Sego, but had gone to Kancaba for gold-dust. - -When I arrived at Doolinkeaboo I was informed that my fellow-travellers -had gone on, but my horse was so much fatigued that I could not possibly -proceed after them. The dooty of the town at my request gave me a -draught of water, which is generally looked upon as an earnest of greater -hospitality, and I had no doubt of making up for the toils of the day by -a good supper and a sound sleep; unfortunately, I had neither the one nor -the other. The night was rainy and tempestuous, and the dooty limited -his hospitality to the draught of water. - -_July_ 20.—In the morning I endeavoured, both by entreaties and threats, -to procure some victuals from the dooty, but in vain. I even begged some -corn from one of his female slaves, as she was washing it at the well, -and had the mortification to be refused. However, when the dooty was -gone to the fields, his wife sent me a handful of meal, which I mixed -with water and drank for breakfast. About eight o’clock I departed from -Doolinkeaboo, and at noon stopped a few minutes at a large korree, where -I had some milk given me by the Foulahs, and hearing that two negroes -were going from thence to Sega, I was happy to have their company, and we -set out immediately. About four o’clock we stopped at a small village, -where one of the negroes met with an acquaintance, who invited us to a -sort of public entertainment, which was conducted with more than common -propriety. A dish, made of sour milk and meal, called _sinkatoo_, and -beer made from their corn, was distributed with great liberality, and the -women were admitted into the society, a circumstance I had never before -observed in Africa. There was no compulsion—every one was at liberty to -drink as he pleased—they nodded to each other when about to drink, and on -setting down the calabash commonly said _Berka_ (“Thank you”). Both men -and women appeared to be somewhat intoxicated, but they were far from -being quarrelsome. - -Departing from thence, we passed several large villages, where I was -constantly taken for a Moor and became the subject of much merriment to -the Bambarrans, who, seeing me drive my horse before me, laughed heartily -at my appearance. “He has been at Mecca,” says one, “you may see that by -his clothes;” another asked me if my horse was sick; a third wished to -purchase it, &c., so that, I believe, the very slaves were ashamed to be -seen in my company. Just before it was dark we took up our lodging for -the night at a small village, where I procured some victuals for myself -and some corn for my horse, at the moderate price of a button; and was -told that I should see the Niger (which the negroes call Joliba, or the -Great Water) early the next day. The lions are here very numerous; the -gates are shut a little after sunset, and nobody allowed to go out. The -thoughts of seeing the Niger in the morning, and the troublesome buzzing -of mosquitoes, prevented me from shutting my eyes during the night; and I -had saddled my horse, and was in readiness before daylight, but, on -account of the wild beasts, we were obliged to wait until the people were -stirring and the gates opened. This happened to be a market day at Sego, -and the roads were everywhere filled with people carrying different -articles to sell. We passed four large villages, and at eight o’clock -saw the smoke over Sego. - -As we approached the town I was fortunate enough to overtake the fugitive -Kaartans, to whose kindness I had been so much indebted in my journey -through Bambarra. They readily agreed to introduce me to the king; and -we rode together through some marshy ground, where, as I was anxiously -looking around for the river, one of them called out, _Geo affili_! (“See -the water!”) and, looking forwards, I saw with infinite pleasure the -great object of my mission—the long-sought-for majestic Niger, glittering -in the morning sun, as broad as the Thames at Westminster, and flowing -slowly to _the eastward_. I hastened to the brink, and having drunk of -the water, lifted up my fervent thanks in prayer to the Great Ruler of -all things for having thus far crowned my endeavours with success. - -The circumstance of the Niger’s flowing towards the east, and its -collateral points, did not, however, excite my surprise, for, although I -had left Europe in great hesitation on this subject, and rather believed -that it ran in the contrary direction, I had made such frequent inquiries -during my progress concerning this river, and received from the negroes -of different nations such clear and decisive assurances that its general -course was _towards the rising sun_, as scarce left any doubt on my mind, -and more especially as I knew that Major Houghton had collected similar -information in the same manner. - -Sego, the capital of Bambarra, at which I had now arrived, consists, -properly speaking, of four distinct towns—two on the northern bank of the -Niger, called Sego Korro and Sego Boo; and two on the southern bank, -called Sego Soo Korro and Sego See Korro. They are all surrounded with -high mud walls. The houses are built of clay, of a square form with flat -roofs—some of them have two storeys, and many of them are whitewashed. -Besides these buildings, Moorish mosques are seen in every quarter; and -the streets, though narrow, are broad enough for every useful purpose, in -a country where wheel carriages are entirely unknown. From the best -inquiries I could make, I have reason to believe that Sego contains -altogether about thirty thousand inhabitants. The King of Bambarra -constantly resides at Sego See Korro. He employs a great many slaves in -conveying people over the river, and the money they receive (though the -fare is only ten kowrie shells for each individual) furnishes a -considerable revenue to the king in the course of a year. The canoes are -of a singular construction, each of them being formed of the trunks of -two large trees rendered concave, and joined together, not side by side, -but endways—the junction being exactly across the middle of the canoe: -they are therefore very long, and disproportionably narrow, and have -neither decks nor masts: they are, however, very roomy, for I observed in -one of them four horses and several people crossing over the river. When -we arrived at this ferry, with a view to pass over to that part of the -town in which the king resides, we found a great number waiting for a -passage: they looked at me with silent wonder, and I distinguished with -concern many Moors among them. There were three different places of -embarkation, and the ferrymen were very diligent and expeditious; but -from the crowd of people I could not immediately obtain a passage, and -sat down upon the bank of the river to wait for a more favourable -opportunity. The view of this extensive city—the numerous canoes upon -the river—the crowded population, and the cultivated state of the -surrounding country—formed altogether a prospect of civilisation and -magnificence which I little expected to find in the bosom of Africa. - -I waited more than two hours without having an opportunity of crossing -the river, during which time the people who had crossed carried -information to Mansong, the king, that a white man was waiting for a -passage, and was coming to see him. He immediately sent over one of his -chief men, who informed me that the king could not possibly see me until -he knew what had brought me into his country; and that I must not presume -to cross the river without the king’s permission. He therefore advised -me to lodge at a distant village, to which he pointed, for the night, and -said that in the morning he would give me further instructions how to -conduct myself. This was very discouraging. However, as there was no -remedy, I set off for the village, where I found, to my great -mortification, that no person would admit me into his house. I was -regarded with astonishment and fear, and was obliged to sit all day -without victuals in the shade of a tree; and the night threatened to be -very uncomfortable—for the wind rose, and there was great appearance of a -heavy rain—and the wild beasts are so very numerous in the neighbourhood -that I should have been under the necessity of climbing up a tree and -resting amongst the branches. About sunset, however, as I was preparing -to pass the night in this manner, and had turned my horse loose that he -might graze at liberty, a woman, returning from the labours of the field, -stopped to observe me, and perceiving that I was weary and dejected, -inquired into my situation, which I briefly explained to her; whereupon, -with looks of great compassion, she took up my saddle and bridle, and -told me to follow her. Having conducted me into her hut, she lighted up -a lamp, spread a mat on the floor, and told me I might remain there for -the night. Finding that I was very hungry, she said she would procure me -something to eat. She accordingly went out, and returned in a short time -with a very fine fish, which, having caused to be half broiled upon some -embers, she gave me for supper. The rites of hospitality being thus -performed towards a stranger in distress, my worthy benefactress -(pointing to the mat, and telling me I might sleep there without -apprehension) called to the female part of her family, who had stood -gazing on me all the while in fixed astonishment, to resume their task of -spinning cotton, in which they continued to employ themselves great part -of the night. They lightened their labour by songs, one of which was -composed extempore, for I was myself the subject of it. It was sung by -one of the young women, the rest joining in a sort of chorus. The air -was sweet and plaintive, and the words, literally translated, were -these:—“The winds roared, and the rains fell. The poor white man, faint -and weary, came and sat under our tree. He has no mother to bring him -milk, no wife to grind his corn. _Chorus_.—Let us pity the white man, no -mother has he,” &c. &c. Trifling as this recital may appear to the -reader, to a person in my situation the circumstance was affecting in the -highest degree. I was oppressed by such unexpected kindness, and sleep -fled from my eyes. In the morning I presented my compassionate landlady -with two of the four brass buttons which remained on my waistcoat—the -only recompense I could make her. - -_July_ 21.—I continued in the village all this day in conversation with -the natives, who came in crowds to see me, but was rather uneasy towards -evening to find that no message had arrived from the king, the more so as -the people began to whisper that Mansong had received some very -unfavourable accounts of me from the Moors and slatees residing at Sego, -who, it seems, were exceedingly suspicious concerning the motives of my -journey. I learned that many consultations had been held with the king -concerning my reception and disposal; and some of the villagers frankly -told me that I had many enemies, and must expect no favour. - -_July_ 22.—About eleven o’clock a messenger arrived from the king, but he -gave me very little satisfaction. He inquired particularly if I had -brought any present, and seemed much disappointed when he was told that I -had been robbed of everything by the Moors. When I proposed to go along -with him, he told me to stop until the afternoon, when the king would -send for me. - -_July_ 23.—In the afternoon another messenger arrived from Mansong, with -a bag in his hands. He told me it was the king’s pleasure that I should -depart forthwith from the vicinage of Sego; but that Mansong, wishing to -relieve a white man in distress, had sent me five thousand kowries, to -enable me to purchase provisions in the course of my journey: the -messenger added, that if my intentions were really to proceed to Jenné, -he had orders to accompany me as a guide to Sansanding. I was at first -puzzled to account for this behaviour of the king; but from the -conversation I had with the guide, I had afterwards reason to believe -that Mansong would willingly have admitted me into his presence at Sego, -but was apprehensive he might not be able to protect me against the blind -and inveterate malice of the Moorish inhabitants. His conduct, -therefore, was at once prudent and liberal. The circumstances under -which I made my appearance at Sego were undoubtedly such as might create -in the mind of the king a well-warranted suspicion that I wished to -conceal the true object of my journey. He argued, probably, as my guide -argued, who, when he was told that I had come from a great distance, and -through many dangers, to behold the Joliba river, naturally inquired if -there were no rivers in my own country, and whether one river was not -like another. Notwithstanding this, and in spite of the jealous -machinations of the Moors, this benevolent prince thought it sufficient -that a white man was found in his dominions, in a condition of extreme -wretchedness, and that no other plea was necessary to entitle the -sufferer to his bounty. - - - - -FOOTNOTES - - -{41} I believe that similar charms or amulets, under the names of -_domini_, _grigri_, _fetich_, &c., are common in all parts of Africa. - -{70} Maana is within a short distance of the ruins of Fort St. Joseph, -on the Senegal river, formerly a French factory. - - - - -***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TRAVELS IN THE INTERIOR OF AFRICA, -VOL. 1 [OF 2]*** - - -******* This file should be named 5266-0.txt or 5266-0.zip ******* - - -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: -http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/5/2/6/5266 - - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org - - - - - -Title: Travels in the Interior of Africa, Vol. 1 [of 2] - - -Author: Mungo Park - -Editor: Henry Morley - -Release Date: July 31, 2014 [eBook #5266] -This file was first posted on June 20, 2002] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ISO-646-US (US-ASCII) - - -***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TRAVELS IN THE INTERIOR OF AFRICA, -VOL. 1 [OF 2]*** -</pre> -<p>Transcribed from the 1893 Cassell & Company edition by -David Price, email ccx074@pglaf.org</p> -<p style="text-align: center"><span -class="GutSmall">CASSELL’S NATIONAL LIBRARY</span></p> - -<div class="gapshortline"> </div> -<h1><span class="smcap">Travels</span><br /> -<span class="smcap">in the</span><br /> -<span class="smcap">Interior of Africa</span></h1> -<p style="text-align: center"><span class="GutSmall">BY</span><br -/> -MUNGO PARK</p> -<p style="text-align: center"><span class="smcap">Vol</span>. -I.</p> -<p style="text-align: center"> -<a href="images/tpb.jpg"> -<img alt= -"Decorative graphic" -title= -"Decorative graphic" -src="images/tps.jpg" /> -</a></p> -<p style="text-align: center">CASSELL & COMPANY Limited<br /> -<span class="GutSmall"><i>LONDON PARIS & -MELBOURNE</i></span><br /> -<span class="GutSmall">1893</span></p> -<h2>INTRODUCTION</h2> -<p><span class="smcap">Mungo Park</span> was born on the 10th of -September, 1771, the son of a farmer at Fowlshiels, near -Selkirk. After studying medicine in Edinburgh, he went out, -at the age of twenty-one, assistant-surgeon in a ship bound for -the East Indies. When he came back the African Society was -in want of an explorer, to take the place of Major Houghton, who -had died. Mungo Park volunteered, was accepted, and in his -twenty-fourth year, on the 22nd of May, 1795, he sailed for the -coasts of Senegal, where he arrived in June.</p> -<p>Thence he proceeded on the travels of which this book is the -record. He was absent from England for a little more than -two years and a half; returned a few days before Christmas, -1797. He was then twenty-six years old. The African -Association published the first edition of his travels as -“Travels in the Interior Districts of Africa, 1795–7, -by Mungo Park, with an Appendix containing Geographical -Illustrations of Africa, by Major Rennell.”</p> -<p>Park married, and settled at Peebles in medical practice, but -was persuaded by the Government to go out again. He sailed -from Portsmouth on the 30th of January, 1805, resolved to trace -the Niger to its source or perish in the attempt. He -perished. The natives attacked him while passing through a -narrow strait of the river at Boussa, and killed him, with all -that remained of his party, except one slave. The record of -this fatal voyage, partly gathered from his journals, and closed -by evidences of the manner of his death, was first published in -1815, as “The Journal of a Mission to the Interior of -Africa in 1805, by Mungo Park, together with other Documents, -Official and Private, relating to the same Mission. To -which is prefixed an Account of the Life of Mr. Park.”</p> -<p style="text-align: right">H. M.</p> -<h2>CHAPTER I.<br /> -<span class="GutSmall">JOURNEY FROM PORTSMOUTH TO THE -GAMBIA.</span></h2> -<p><span class="smcap">Soon</span> after my return from the East -Indies in 1793, having learned that the noblemen and gentlemen -associated for the purpose of prosecuting discoveries in the -interior of Africa were desirous of engaging a person to explore -that continent, by the way of the Gambia river, I took occasion, -through means of the President of the Royal Society, to whom I -had the honour to be known, of offering myself for that -service. I had been informed that a gentleman of the name -of Houghton, a captain in the army, and formerly fort-major at -Goree, had already sailed to the Gambia, under the direction of -the Association, and that there was reason to apprehend he had -fallen a sacrifice to the climate, or perished in some contest -with the natives. But this intelligence, instead of -deterring me from my purpose, animated me to persist in the offer -of my services with the greater solicitude. I had a -passionate desire to examine into the productions of a country so -little known, and to become experimentally acquainted with the -modes of life and character of the natives. I knew that I -was able to bear fatigue, and I relied on my youth and the -strength of my constitution to preserve me from the effects of -the climate. The salary which the committee allowed was -sufficiently large, and I made no stipulation for future -reward. If I should perish in my journey, I was willing -that my hopes and expectations should perish with me; and if I -should succeed in rendering the geography of Africa more familiar -to my countrymen, and in opening to their ambition and industry -new sources of wealth and new channels of commerce, I knew that I -was in the hands of men of honour, who would not fail to bestow -that remuneration which my successful services should appear to -them to merit. The committee of the Association having made -such inquiries as they thought necessary, declared themselves -satisfied with the qualifications that I possessed, and accepted -me for the service; and, with that liberality which on all -occasions distinguishes their conduct, gave me every -encouragement which it was in their power to grant, or which I -could with propriety ask.</p> -<p>It was at first proposed that I should accompany Mr. James -Willis, who was then recently appointed consul at Senegambia, and -whose countenance in that capacity, it was thought, might have -served and protected me; but Government afterwards rescinded his -appointment, and I lost that advantage. The kindness of the -committee, however, supplied all that was necessary. Being -favoured by the secretary of the Association, the late Henry -Beaufoy, Esq., with a recommendation to Dr. John Laidley (a -gentleman who had resided many years at an English factory on the -banks of the Gambia), and furnished with a letter of credit on -him for £200, I took my passage in the brig -<i>Endeavour</i>—a small vessel trading to the Gambia for -beeswax and ivory, commanded by Captain Richard Wyatt—and I -became impatient for my departure.</p> -<p>My instructions were very plain and concise. I was -directed, on my arrival in Africa, “to pass on to the river -Niger, either by way of Bambouk, or by such other route as should -be found most convenient. That I should ascertain the -course, and, if possible, the rise and termination of that -river. That I should use my utmost exertions to visit the -principal towns or cities in its neighbourhood, particularly -Timbuctoo and Houssa; and that I should be afterwards at liberty -to return to Europe, either by the way of the Gambia, or by such -other route as, under all the then existing circumstances of my -situation and prospects, should appear to me to be most -advisable.”</p> -<p>We sailed from Portsmouth on the 22nd day of May, 1795. -On the 4th of June we saw the mountains over Mogadore, on the -coast of Africa; and on the 21st of the same month, after a -pleasant voyage of thirty days, we anchored at Jillifrey, a town -on the northern bank of the river Gambia, opposite to -James’s Island, where the English had formerly a small -fort.</p> -<p>The kingdom of Barra, in which the town of Jillifrey is -situated, produces great plenty of the necessaries of life; but -the chief trade of the inhabitants is in salt, which commodity -they carry up the river in canoes as high as Barraconda, and -bring down in return Indian corn, cotton cloths, elephants’ -teeth, small quantities of gold dust, &c. The number of -canoes and people constantly employed in this trade makes the -king of Barra more formidable to Europeans than any other -chieftain on the river; and this circumstance probably encouraged -him to establish those exorbitant duties which traders of all -nations are obliged to pay at entry, amounting to nearly -£20 on every vessel, great and small. These duties or -customs are generally collected in person by the <i>alkaid</i>, -or governor of Jillifrey, and he is attended on these occasions -by a numerous train of dependants, among whom are found many who, -by their frequent intercourse with the English, have acquired a -smattering of our language: but they are commonly very noisy and -very troublesome, begging for everything they fancy with such -earnestness and importunity, that traders, in order to get quit -of them, are frequently obliged to grant their requests.</p> -<p>On the 23rd we departed from Jillifrey, and proceeded to -Vintain, a town situated about two miles up a creek on the -southern side of the river. This place is much resorted to -by Europeans on account of the great quantities of beeswax which -are brought hither for sale; the wax is collected in the woods by -the Feloops, a wild and unsociable race of people. Their -country, which is of considerable extent, abounds in rice; and -the natives supply the traders, both on the Gambia and Cassamansa -rivers, with that article, and also with goats and poultry, on -very reasonable terms. The honey which they collect is -chiefly used by themselves in making a strong intoxicating -liquor, much the same as the mead which is produced from honey in -Great Britain.</p> -<p>In their traffic with Europeans, the Feloops generally employ -a factor or agent of the Mandingo nation, who speaks a little -English, and is acquainted with the trade of the river. -This broker makes the bargain; and, with the connivance of the -European, receives a certain part only of the payment, which he -gives to his employer as the whole; the remainder (which is very -truly called the <i>cheating money</i>) he receives when the -Feloop is gone, and appropriates to himself as a reward for his -trouble.</p> -<p>The language of the Feloops is appropriate and peculiar; and -as their trade is chiefly conducted, as hath been observed, by -Mandingoes, the Europeans have no inducement to learn it.</p> -<p>On the 26th we left Vintain, and continued our course up the -river, anchoring whenever the tide failed us, and frequently -towing the vessel with the boat. The river is deep and -muddy; the banks are covered with impenetrable thickets of -mangrove; and the whole of the adjacent country appears to be -flat and swampy.</p> -<p>The Gambia abounds with fish, some species of which are -excellent food; but none of them that I recollect are known in -Europe. At the entrance from the sea sharks are found in -great abundance, and, higher up, alligators and the hippopotamus -(or river-horse) are very numerous.</p> -<p>In six days after leaving Vintain we reached Jonkakonda, a -place of considerable trade, where our vessel was to take in part -of her lading. The next morning the several European -traders came from their different factories to receive their -letters, and learn the nature and amount of her cargo; and the -captain despatched a messenger to Dr. Laidley to inform him of my -arrival. He came to Jonkakonda the morning following, when -I delivered him Mr. Beaufoy’s letter, and he gave me a kind -invitation to spend my time at his house until an opportunity -should offer of prosecuting my journey. This invitation was -too acceptable to be refused, and being furnished by the Doctor -with a horse and guide, I set out from Jonkakonda at daybreak on -the 5th of July, and at eleven o’clock arrived at Pisania, -where I was accommodated with a room and other conveniences in -the Doctor’s house.</p> -<p>Pisania is a small village in the king of Yany’s -dominions, established by British subjects as a factory for -trade, and inhabited solely by them and their black -servants. It is situated on the banks of the Gambia, -sixteen miles above Jonkakonda. The white residents, at the -time of may arrival there, consisted only of Dr. Laidley, and two -gentlemen who were brothers, of the name of Ainsley; but their -domestics were numerous. They enjoyed perfect security -under the king’s protection, and being highly esteemed and -respected by the natives at large, wanted no accommodation or -comfort which the country could supply, and the greatest part of -the trade in slaves, ivory, and gold was in their hands.</p> -<p>Being now settled for some time at my ease, my first object -was to learn the Mandingo tongue, being the language in almost -general use throughout this part of Africa, and without which I -was fully convinced that I never could acquire an extensive -knowledge of the country or its inhabitants. In this -pursuit I was greatly assisted by Dr. Laidley.</p> -<p>In researches of this kind, and in observing the manners and -customs of the natives, in a country so little known to the -nations of Europe, and furnished with so many striking and -uncommon objects of nature, my time passed not unpleasantly, and -I began to flatter myself that I had escaped the fever, or -seasoning, to which Europeans, on their first arrival in hot -climates, are generally subject. But on the 31st of July I -imprudently exposed myself to the night-dew in observing an -eclipse of the moon, with a view to determine the longitude of -the place; the next day I found myself attacked with a smart -fever and delirium, and such an illness followed as confined me -to the house during the greatest part of August. My -recovery was very slow, but I embraced every short interval of -convalescence to walk out, and make myself acquainted with the -productions of the country.</p> -<p>In one of those excursions, having rambled farther than usual, -on a hot day, I brought on a return of my fever, and on the 10th -of September I was again confined to my bed. The fever, -however, was not so violent as before; and in the course of three -weeks I was able, when the weather would permit, to renew my -botanical excursions; and when it rained, I amused myself with -drawing plants, &c., in my chamber. The care and -attention of Dr. Laidley contributed greatly to alleviate my -sufferings; his company and conversation beguiled the tedious -hours during that gloomy season, when the rain falls in torrents; -when suffocating heats oppress by day, and when the night is -spent by the terrified travellers in listening to the croaking of -frogs (of which the numbers are beyond imagination), the shrill -cry of the jackal, and the deep howling of the hyæna, a -dismal concert, interrupted only by the roar of such tremendous -thunder as no person can form a conception of but those who have -heard it.</p> -<p>The country itself being an immense level, and very generally -covered with wood, presents a tiresome and gloomy uniformity to -the eye; but although Nature has denied to the inhabitants the -beauties of romantic landscapes, she has bestowed on them, with a -liberal hand, the more important blessings of fertility and -abundance. A little attention to cultivation procures a -sufficiency of corn, the fields afford a rich pasturage for -cattle, and the natives are plentifully supplied with excellent -fish, both from the Gambia river and the Walli creek.</p> -<p>The grains which are chiefly cultivated are—Indian corn -(<i>zea mays</i>); two kinds of <i>holcus spicatus</i>, called by -the natives <i>soono</i> and <i>sanio</i>; <i>holcus niger</i>, -and <i>holcus bicolor</i>, the former of which they have named -<i>bassi woolima</i>, and the latter <i>bassiqui</i>. -These, together with rice, are raised in considerable quantities; -besides which, the inhabitants in the vicinity of the towns and -villages have gardens which produce onions, calavances, yams, -cassavi, ground nuts, pompions, gourds, water-melons, and some -other esculent plants.</p> -<p>I observed likewise, near the towns, small patches of cotton -and indigo. The former of these articles supplies them with -clothing, and with the latter they dye their cloth of an -excellent blue colour, in a manner that will hereafter be -described.</p> -<p>In preparing their corn for food, the natives use a large -wooden mortar called a <i>paloon</i>, in which they bruise the -seed until it parts with the outer covering, or husk, which is -then separated from the clean corn by exposing it to the wind, -nearly in the same manner as wheat is cleared from the chaff in -England. The corn thus freed from the husk is returned to -the mortar and beaten into meal, which is dressed variously in -different countries; but the most common preparation of it among -the nations of the Gambia is a sort of pudding which they call -<i>kouskous</i>. It is made by first moistening the flour -with water, and then stirring and shaking it about in a large -calabash, or gourd, till it adheres together in small granules -resembling sago. It is then put into an earthen pot, whose -bottom is perforated with a number of small holes; and this pot -being placed upon another, the two vessels are luted together -either with a paste of meal and water, or with cows’ dung, -and placed upon the fire. In the lower vessel is commonly -some animal food and water, the steam or vapour of which ascends -through the perforations in the bottom of the upper vessel, and -softens and the kouskous, which is very much esteemed throughout -all the countries that I visited. I am informed that the -same manner of preparing flour is very generally used on the -Barbary coast, and that the dish so prepared is there called by -the same name. It is therefore probable that the negroes -borrowed the practice from the Moors.</p> -<p>Their domestic animals are nearly the same as in Europe. -Swine are found in the woods, but their flesh is not -esteemed. Probably the marked abhorrence in which this -animal is held by the votaries of Mohammed has spread itself -among the pagans. Poultry of all kinds, the turkey -excepted, is everywhere to be had. The guinea-fowl and red -partridge abound in the fields, and the woods furnish a small -species of antelope, of which the venison is highly and -deservedly prized.</p> -<p>Of the other wild animals in the Mandingo countries, the most -common are the hyæna, the panther, and the elephant. -Considering the use that is made of the latter in the East -Indies, it may be thought extraordinary that the natives of -Africa have not, in any part of this immense continent, acquired -the skill of taming this powerful and docile creature, and -applying his strength and faculties to the service of man. -When I told some of the natives that this was actually done in -the countries of the East, my auditors laughed me to scorn, and -exclaimed, “<i>Tobaubo fonnio</i>!” (“A white -man’s lie!”) The negroes frequently find means -to destroy the elephant by firearms; they hunt it principally for -the sake of the teeth, which they transfer in barter to those who -sell them again to the Europeans. The flesh they eat, and -consider it as a great delicacy.</p> -<p>On the 6th of October the waters of the Gambia were at the -greatest height, being fifteen feet above the high-water mark of -the tide, after which they began to subside, at first slowly, but -afterwards very rapidly, sometimes sinking more than a foot in -twenty-four hours. By the beginning of November the river -had sunk to its former level, and the tide ebbed and flowed as -usual. When the river had subsided, and the atmosphere grew -dry, I recovered apace, and began to think of my departure, for -this is reckoned the most proper season for travelling. The -natives had completed their harvest, and provisions were -everywhere cheap and plentiful.</p> -<p>Dr. Laidley was at this time employed in a trading voyage at -Jonkakonda. I wrote to him to desire that he would use his -interest with the <i>slatees</i>, or slave-merchants, to procure -me the company and protection of the first <i>coffle</i> (or -caravan) that might leave Gambia for the interior country; and, -in the meantime, I requested him to purchase for me a horse and -two asses. A few days afterwards the Doctor returned to -Pisania, and informed me that a coffle would certainly go for the -interior in the course of the dry season; but that, as many of -the merchants belonging to it had not yet completed their -assortment of goods, he could not say at what time they would set -out.</p> -<p>As the characters and dispositions of the slatees, and people -that composed the caravan, were entirely unknown to me—and -as they seemed rather averse to my purpose, and unwilling to -enter into any positive engagements on my account—and the -time of their departure being withal very uncertain, I resolved, -on further deliberation, to avail myself of the dry season, and -proceed without them.</p> -<p>Dr. Laidley approved my determination, and promised me every -assistance in his power to enable me to prosecute my journey with -comfort and safety.</p> -<p>This resolution having been formed, I made preparations -accordingly.</p> -<p>And now, being about to take leave of my hospitable friend -(whose kindness and solicitude continued to the moment of my -departure), and to quit for many months the countries bordering -on the Gambia, it seems proper, before I proceed with my -narrative, that I should in this place give some account of the -several negro nations which inhabit the banks of this celebrated -river, and the commercial intercourse that subsists between them, -and such of the nations of Europe as find their advantage in -trading to this part of Africa. The observations which have -occurred to me on both these subjects will be found in the -following chapter.</p> -<h2>CHAPTER II.<br /> -<span class="GutSmall">LANGUAGE AND RELIGION OF THE -NATIVES.</span></h2> -<p><span class="smcap">The</span> natives of the countries -bordering on the Gambia, though distributed into a great many -distinct governments, may, I think, be divided into four great -classes—the Feloops, the Jaloffs, the Foulahs, and the -Mandingoes. Among all these nations, the religion of -Mohammed has made, and continues to make, considerable progress; -but in most of them the body of the people, both free and -enslaved, persevere in maintaining the blind but harmless -superstitions of their ancestors, and are called by the -Mohammedans <i>kafirs</i>, or infidels.</p> -<p>Of the Feloops, I have little to add to what has been observed -concerning them in the former chapter. They are of a gloomy -disposition, and are supposed never to forgive an injury. -They are even said to transmit their quarrels as deadly feuds to -their posterity, insomuch that a son considers it as incumbent on -him, from a just sense of filial obligation, to become the -avenger of his deceased father’s wrongs. If a man -loses his life in one of these sudden quarrels which perpetually -occur at their feasts, when the whole party is intoxicated with -mead, his son, or the eldest of his sons (if he has more than -one), endeavours to procure his father’s sandals, which he -wears <i>once a year</i>, on the anniversary of his -father’s death, until a fit opportunity offers of revenging -his fate, when the object of his resentment seldom escapes his -pursuit. This fierce and unrelenting disposition is, -however, counterbalanced by many good qualities: they display the -utmost gratitude and affection towards their benefactors, and the -fidelity with which they preserve whatever is entrusted to them -is remarkable. During the present war, they have more than -once taken up arms to defend our merchant vessels from French -privateers; and English property of considerable value has -frequently been left at Vintain for a long time entirely under -the care of the Feloops, who have uniformly manifested on such -occasions the strictest honesty and punctuality. How -greatly is it to be wished that the minds of a people so -determined and faithful could be softened and civilised by the -mild and benevolent spirit of Christianity!</p> -<p>The Jaloffs (or Yaloffs) are an active, powerful, and warlike -race, inhabiting great part of that tract which lies between the -river Senegal and the Mandingo states on the Gambia; yet they -differ from the Mandingoes not only in language, but likewise in -complexion and features. The noses of the Jaloffs are not -so much depressed, nor the lips so protuberant, as among the -generality of Africans; and although their skin is of the deepest -black, they are considered by the white traders as the most -sightly negroes on this part of the continent.</p> -<p>Their language is said to be copious and significant, and is -often learnt by Europeans trading to Senegal.</p> -<p>The Foulahs (or Pholeys), such of them at least as reside near -the Gambia, are chiefly of a tawny complexion, with soft silky -hair, and pleasing features. They are much attached to a -pastoral life, and have introduced themselves into all the -kingdoms on the windward coast as herdsmen and husbandmen, paying -a tribute to the sovereign of the country for the lands which -they hold. Not having many opportunities, however, during -my residence at Pisania, of improving my acquaintance with these -people, I defer entering at large into their character until a -fitter occasion occurs, which will present itself when I come to -Bondou.</p> -<p>The Mandingoes, of whom it remains to speak, constitute, in -truth, the bulk of the inhabitants in all those districts of -Africa which I visited; and their language, with a few -exceptions, is universally understood and very generally spoken -in that part of the continent.</p> -<p>They are called Mandingoes, I conceive, as having originally -migrated from the interior state of Manding, of which some -account will hereafter be given.</p> -<p>In every considerable town there is a chief magistrate, called -the <i>alkaid</i>, whose office is hereditary, and whose business -it is to preserve order, to levy duties on travellers, and to -preside at all conferences in the exercise of local jurisdiction -and the administration of justice. These courts are -composed of the elders of the town (of free condition), and are -termed <i>palavers</i>; and their proceedings are conducted in -the open air with sufficient solemnity. Both sides of a -question are freely canvassed, witnesses are publicly examined, -and the decisions which follow generally meet with the -approbation of the surrounding audience.</p> -<p>As the negroes have no written language of their own, the -general rule of decision is an appeal to <i>ancient custom</i>; -but since the system of Mohammed has made so great progress among -them, the converts to that faith have gradually introduced, with -the religious tenets, many of the civil institutions of the -prophet; and where the Koran is not found sufficiently explicit, -recourse is had to a commentary called <i>Al Sharra</i>, -containing, as I was told, a complete exposition or digest of the -Mohammedan laws, both civil and criminal, properly arranged and -illustrated.</p> -<p>This frequency of appeal to written laws, with which the pagan -natives are necessarily unacquainted, has given rise in their -palavers to (what I little expected to find in Africa) -professional advocates, or expounders of the law, who are allowed -to appear and to plead for plaintiff or defendant, much in the -same manner as counsel in the law-courts of Great Britain. -They are Mohammedan negroes, who have made, or affect to have -made, the laws of the prophet their peculiar study; and if I may -judge from their harangues, which I frequently attended, I -believe, that in the forensic qualifications of procrastination -and cavil, and the arts of confounding and perplexing a cause, -they are not always surpassed by the ablest pleaders in -Europe. While I was at Pisania, a cause was heard which -furnished the Mohammedan lawyers with an admirable opportunity of -displaying their professional dexterity. The case was -this:—An ass belonging to a Serawoolli negro (a native of -an interior country near the river Senegal) had broke into a -field of corn belonging to one of the Mandingo inhabitants, and -destroyed great part of it. The Mandingo having caught the -animal in his field, immediately drew his knife and cut his -throat. The Serawoolli thereupon called a <i>palaver</i> -(or in European terms, <i>brought an action</i>) to recover -damages for the loss of his beast, on which he set a high -value. The defendant confessed he had killed the ass, but -pleaded a <i>set-off</i>, insisting that the loss he had -sustained by the ravage in his corn was equal to the sum demanded -for the animal. To ascertain this fact was the point at -issue, and the learned advocates contrived to puzzle the cause in -such a manner that, after a hearing of three days, the court -broke up without coming to any determination upon it; and a -second palaver was, I suppose, thought necessary.</p> -<p>The Mandingoes, generally speaking, are of a mild, sociable, -and obliging disposition. The men are commonly above the -middle size, well-shaped, strong, and capable of enduring great -labour. The women are good-natured, sprightly, and -agreeable. The dress of both sexes is composed of cotton -cloth of their own manufacture: that of the men is a loose frock, -not unlike a surplice, with drawers which reach half-way down the -leg; and they wear sandals on their feet, and white cotton caps -on their heads. The women’s dress consists of two -pieces of cloth, each of which is about six feet long and three -broad. One of these they wrap round their waist, which, -hanging down to the ankles, answers the purpose of a petticoat; -the other is thrown negligently over the bosom and shoulders.</p> -<p>This account of their clothing is indeed nearly applicable to -the natives of all the different countries in this part of -Africa; a peculiar national mode is observable only in the -head-dresses of the women.</p> -<p>Thus, in the countries of the Gambia, the females wear a sort -of bandage, which they call <i>jalla</i>. It is a narrow -strip of cotton cloth wrapped many times round, immediately over -the forehead. In Bondou, the head is encircled with strings -of white beads, and a small plate of gold is worn in the middle -of the forehead. In Kasson the ladies decorate their heads -in a very tasteful and elegant manner with white seashells. -In Kaarta and Ludamar, the women raise their hair to a great -height by the addition of a pad (as the ladies did formerly in -Great Britain), which they decorate with a species of coral -brought from the Red Sea by pilgrims returning from Mecca, and -sold at a great price.</p> -<p>In the construction of their dwelling-houses the Mandingoes -also conform to the general practice of the African nations in -this part of the continent, contenting themselves with small and -incommodious hovels. A circular mud wall, about four feet -high, upon which is placed a conical roof, composed of the bamboo -cane, and thatched with grass, forms alike the palace of the king -and the hovel of the slave. Their household furniture is -equally simple. A hurdle of canes placed upon upright -sticks, about two feet from the ground, upon which is spread a -mat or bullock’s hide, answers the purpose of a bed; a -water jar, some earthen pots for dressing their food; a few -wooden bowls and calabashes, and one or two low stools, compose -the rest.</p> -<p>As every man of free condition has a plurality of wives, it is -found necessary (to prevent, I suppose, matrimonial disputes) -that each of the ladies should be accommodated with a hut to -herself; and all the huts belonging to the same family are -surrounded by a fence constructed of bamboo canes, split and -formed into a sort of wicker-work. The whole enclosure is -called a <i>sirk</i>, or <i>surk</i>. A number of these -enclosures, with narrow passages between them, form what is -called a town; but the huts are generally placed without any -regularity, according to the caprice of the owner. The only -rule that seems to be attended to is placing the door towards the -south-west, in order to admit the sea-breeze.</p> -<p>In each town is a large stage called the <i>bentang</i>, which -answers the purpose of a public hall or town house. It is -composed of interwoven canes, and is generally sheltered from the -sun by being erected in the shade of some large tree. It is -here that all public affairs are transacted and trials conducted; -and here the lazy and indolent meet to smoke their pipes, and -hear the news of the day. In most of the towns the -Mohammedans have also a <i>missura</i>, or mosque, in which they -assemble and offer up their daily prayers, according to the rules -of the Koran.</p> -<p>In the account which I have thus given of the natives, the -reader must bear in mind that my observations apply chiefly to -persons of <i>free condition</i>, who constitute, I suppose, not -more than one-fourth part of the inhabitants at large. The -other three-fourths are in a state of hopeless and hereditary -slavery, and are employed in cultivating the land, in the care of -cattle, and in servile offices of all kinds, much in the same -manner as the slaves in the West Indies. I was told, -however, that the Mandingo master can neither deprive his slave -of life, nor sell him to a stranger, without first calling a -palaver on his conduct, or in other words, bringing him to a -public trial. But this degree of protection is extended -only to the native or domestic slave. Captives taken in -war, and those unfortunate victims who are condemned to slavery -for crimes or insolvency—and, in short, all those unhappy -people who are brought down from the interior countries for -sale—have no security whatever, but may be treated and -disposed of in all respects as the owner thinks proper. It -sometimes happens, indeed, when no ships are on the coast, that a -humane and considerate master incorporates his purchased slaves -among his domestics; and their offspring at least, if not the -parents, become entitled to all the privileges of the native -class.</p> -<p>The earliest European establishment on this celebrated river -was a factory of the Portuguese, and to this must be ascribed the -introduction of the numerous words of that language which are -still in use among the negroes. The Dutch, French, and -English afterwards successively possessed themselves of -settlements on the coast; but the trade of the Gambia became, and -continued for many years, a sort of monopoly in the hands of the -English. In the travels of Francis Moore is preserved an -account of the Royal African Company’s establishments in -this river in the year 1730; at which the James’s factory -alone consisted of a governor, deputy-governor, and two other -principal officers; eight factors, thirteen writers, twenty -inferior attendants and tradesmen; a company of soldiers, and -thirty-two negro servants; besides sloops, shallops, and boats, -with their crews; and there were no less than eight subordinate -factories in other parts of the river.</p> -<p>The trade with Europe, by being afterwards laid open, was -almost annihilated. The share which the subjects of England -at this time hold in it supports not more than two or three -annual ships; and I am informed that the gross value of British -exports is under £20,000. The French and Danes still -maintain a small share, and the Americans have lately sent a few -vessels to the Gambia by way of experiment.</p> -<p>The commodities exported to the Gambia from Europe consist -chiefly of firearms and ammunition, iron-ware, spirituous -liquors, tobacco, cotton caps, a small quantity of broadcloth, -and a few articles of the manufacture of Manchester; a small -assortment of India goods, with some glass beads, amber, and -other trifles, for which are taken in exchange slaves, gold dust, -ivory, beeswax, and hides. Slaves are the chief article, -but the whole number which at this time are annually exported -from the Gambia by all nations is supposed to be under one -thousand.</p> -<p>Most of these unfortunate victims are brought to the coast in -periodical caravans; many of them from very remote inland -countries, for the language which they speak is not understood by -the inhabitants of the maritime districts. In a subsequent -part of my work I shall give the best information I have been -able to collect concerning the manner in which they are -obtained. On their arrival at the coast, if no immediate -opportunity offers of selling them to advantage, they are -distributed among the neighbouring villages, until a slave ship -arrives, or until they can be sold to black traders, who -sometimes purchase on speculation. In the meanwhile, the -poor wretches are kept constantly fettered, two and two of them -being chained together, and employed in the labours of the field, -and, I am sorry to add, are very scantily fed, as well as harshly -treated. The price of a slave varies according to the -number of purchasers from Europe, and the arrival of caravans -from the interior; but in general I reckon that a young and -healthy male, from sixteen to twenty-five years of age, may be -estimated on the spot from £18 to £20 sterling.</p> -<p>The negro slave-merchants, as I have observed in the former -chapter, are called slatees, who, besides slaves, and the -merchandise which they bring for sale to the whites, supply the -inhabitants of the maritime districts with native iron, -sweet-smelling gums and frankincense, and a commodity called -<i>shea-toulou</i>, which, literally translated, signifies -<i>tree-butter</i>.</p> -<p>In payment of these articles, the maritime states supply the -interior countries with salt, a scarce and valuable commodity, as -I frequently and painfully experienced in the course of my -journey. Considerable quantities of this article, however, -are also supplied to the inland natives by the Moors, who obtain -it from the salt pits in the Great Desert, and receive in return -corn, cotton cloth, and slaves.</p> -<p>In their early intercourse with Europeans the article that -attracted most notice was iron. Its utility, in forming the -instruments of war and husbandry, make it preferable to all -others, and iron soon became the measure by which the value of -all other commodities was ascertained. Thus, a certain -quantity of goods, of whatever denomination, appearing to be -equal in value to a bar of iron, constituted, in the -traders’ phraseology, a bar of that particular -merchandise. Twenty leaves of tobacco, for instance, were -considered as a bar of tobacco; and a gallon of spirits (or -rather half spirits and half water) as a bar of rum, a bar of one -commodity being reckoned equal in value to a bar of another -commodity.</p> -<p>As, however, it must unavoidably happen that, according to the -plenty or scarcity of goods at market in proportion to the -demand, the relative value would be subject to continual -fluctuation, greater precision has been found necessary; and at -this time the current value of a single bar of any kind is fixed -by the whites at two shillings sterling. Thus, a slave -whose price is £15, is said to be worth 150 bars.</p> -<p>In transactions of this nature it is obvious that the white -trader has infinitely the advantage over the African, whom, -therefore, it is difficult to satisfy, for conscious of his own -ignorance, he naturally becomes exceedingly suspicious and -wavering; and, indeed, so very unsettled and jealous are the -negroes in their dealings with the whites, that a bargain is -never considered by the European as concluded until the purchase -money is paid and the party has taken leave.</p> -<p>Having now brought together such general observations on the -country and its inhabitants as occurred to me during my residence -in the vicinity of the Gambia, I shall detain the reader no -longer with introductory matter, but proceed, in the next -chapter, to a regular detail of the incidents which happened, and -the reflections which arose in my mind, in the course of my -painful and perilous journey, from its commencement until my -return to the Gambia.</p> -<h2>CHAPTER III.<br /> -<span class="GutSmall">THE KINGDOM OF WOOLLI—JOURNEY TO -BONDOU.</span></h2> -<p><span class="smcap">On</span> the 2nd of December, 1795, I -took my departure from the hospitable mansion of Dr. -Laidley. I was fortunately provided with a negro servant -who spoke both the English and Mandingo tongues. His name -was Johnson. He was a native of this part of Africa, and -having in his youth been conveyed to Jamaica as a slave, he had -been made free, and taken to England by his master, where he had -resided many years, and at length found his way back to his -native country. As he was known to Dr. Laidley, the Doctor -recommended him to me, and I hired him as my interpreter, at the -rate of ten bars monthly to be paid to himself, and five bars a -month to be paid to his wife during his absence. Dr. -Laidley furthermore provided me with a negro boy of his own, -named Demba, a sprightly youth, who, besides Mandingo, spoke the -language of the Serawoollies, an inland people (of whom mention -will hereafter be made) residing on the banks of the Senegal; and -to induce him to behave well, the Doctor promised him his freedom -on his return, in case I should report favourably of his fidelity -and services. I was furnished with a horse for myself (a -small but very hardy and spirited beast, which cost me to the -value of £7 10s), and two asses for my interpreter and -servant. My baggage was light, consisting chiefly of -provisions for two days; a small assortment of beads, amber, and -tobacco, for the purchase of a fresh supply as I proceeded; a few -changes of linen, and other necessary apparel; an umbrella, a -pocket sextant, a magnetic compass, and a thermometer; together -with two fowling-pieces, two pair of pistols, and some other -small articles.</p> -<p>A free man (a <i>bashreen</i>, or Mohammedan) named Madiboo, -who was travelling to the kingdom of Bambara, and two slatees, or -slave merchants, of the Serawoolli nation, and of the same sect, -who were going to Bondou, offered their services, as far as they -intended respectively to proceed, as did likewise a negro named -Tami (also a Mohammedan), a native of Kasson, who had been -employed some years by Dr. Laidley as a blacksmith, and was -returning to his native country with the savings of his -labours. All these men travelled on foot, driving their -asses before them.</p> -<p>Thus I had no less than six attendants, all of whom had been -taught to regard me with great respect, and to consider that -their safe return hereafter to the countries on the Gambia would -depend on my preservation.</p> -<p>Dr. Laidley himself, and Messrs. Ainsley, with a number of -their domestics, kindly determined to accompany me the first two -days; and I believe they secretly thought they should never see -me afterwards.</p> -<p>We reached Jindey the same day, having crossed the Walli -creek, a branch of the Gambia, and rested at the house of a black -woman, who had formerly been the paramour of a white trader named -Hewett, and who, in consequence thereof, was called, by way of -distinction, <i>seniora</i>. In the evening we walked out -to see an adjoining village, belonging to a slatee named Jemaffoo -Momadoo, the richest of all the Gambia traders. We found -him at home, and he thought so highly of the honour done him by -this visit, that he presented us with a fine bullock, which was -immediately killed, and part of it dressed for our -evening’s repast.</p> -<p>The negroes do not go to supper till late, and, in order to -amuse ourselves while our beef was preparing, a Mandingo was -desired to relate some diverting stories, in listening to which, -and smoking tobacco, we spent three hours. These stories -bear some resemblance to those in the Arabian Nights’ -Entertainments, but, in general, are of a more ludicrous -cast.</p> -<p>About one o’clock in the afternoon of the 3rd of -December, I took my leave of Dr. Laidley and Messrs. Ainsley, and -rode slowly into the woods. I had now before me a boundless -forest, and a country, the inhabitants of which were strangers to -civilised life, and to most of whom a white man was the object of -curiosity or plunder. I reflected that I had parted from -the last European I might probably behold, and perhaps quitted -for ever the comforts of Christian society. Thoughts like -these would necessarily cast a gloom over my mind; and I rode -musing along for about three miles, when I was awakened from my -reverie by a body of people, who came running up, and stopped the -asses, giving me to understand that I must go with them to -Peckaba, to present myself to the king of Walli, or pay customs -to them. I endeavoured to make them comprehend that the -object of my journey not being traffic, I ought not to be -subjected to a tax like the slatees, and other merchants, who -travel for gain; but I reasoned to no purpose. They said it -was usual for travellers of all descriptions to make a present to -the king of Walli, and without doing so I could not be permitted -to proceed. As they were more numerous than my attendants, -and withal very noisy, I thought it prudent to comply with their -demand; and having presented them with four bars of tobacco, for -the king’s use, I was permitted to continue my journey, and -at sunset reached a village near Kootacunda, where we rested for -the night.</p> -<p>In the morning of December 4th I passed Kootacunda, the last -town of Walli, and stopped about an hour at a small adjoining -village to pay customs to an officer of the king of Woolli; we -rested the ensuing night at a village called Tabajang; and at -noon the next day (December 5th) we reached Medina, the capital -of the king of Woolli’s dominions.</p> -<p>The kingdom of Woolli is bounded by Walli on the west, by the -Gambia on the south, by the small river Walli on the north-west, -by Bondou on the north-east, and on the east by the Simbani -wilderness.</p> -<p>The inhabitants are Mandingoes, and, like most of the Mandingo -nations, are divided into two great sects—the Mohammedans, -who are called <i>bushreens</i>, and the pagans, who are called -indiscriminately <i>kafirs</i> (unbelievers) and <i>sonakies</i> -(<i>i.e.</i>, men who drink strong liquors). The pagan -natives are by far the most numerous, and the government of the -country is in their hands; for though the most respectable among -the bushreens are frequently consulted in affairs of importance, -yet they are never permitted to take any share in the executive -government, which rests solely in the hands of the <i>mansa</i>, -or sovereign, and great officers of the state. Of these, -the first in point of rank is the presumptive heir of the crown, -who is called the <i>farbanna</i>. Next to him are the -<i>alkaids</i>, or provincial governors, who are more frequently -called <i>keamos</i>. Then follow the two grand divisions -of free-men and slaves; of the former, the slatees, so frequently -mentioned in the preceding pages, are considered as the -principal; but, in all classes, great respect is paid to the -authority of aged men.</p> -<p>On the death of the reigning monarch, his eldest son (if he -has attained the age of manhood) succeeds to the regal -authority. If there is no son, or if the son is under the -age of discretion, a meeting of the great men is held, and the -late monarch’s nearest relation (commonly his brother) is -called to the government, not as regent, or guardian to the -infant son, but in full right, and to the exclusion of the -minor. The charges of the government are defrayed by -occasional tributes from the people, and by duties on goods -transported across the country. Travellers, on going from -the Gambia towards the interior, pay customs in European -merchandise. On returning, they pay in iron and -<i>shea-toulou</i>. These taxes are paid at every town.</p> -<p>Medina, the capital of the kingdom, at which I was now -arrived, is a place of considerable extent, and may contain from -eight hundred to one thousand houses. It is fortified in -the common African manner, by a surrounding high wall built of -clay, and an outward fence of pointed stakes and prickly bushes; -but the walls are neglected, and the outward fence has suffered -considerably from the active hands of busy housewives, who pluck -up the stakes for firewood. I obtained a lodging at one of -the king’s near relations, who apprised me that at my -introduction to the king I must not presume to <i>shake hands -with him</i>. “It was not usual,” he said, -“to allow this liberty to strangers.” Thus -instructed, I went in the afternoon to pay my respects to the -sovereign, and ask permission to pass through his territories to -Bondou. The king’s name was Jatta. He was the -same venerable old man of whom so favourable an account was -transmitted by Major Houghton. I found him seated upon a -mat before the door of his hut; a number of men and women were -arranged on each side, who were singing and clapping their -hands. I saluted him respectfully, and informed him of the -purport of my visit. The king graciously replied, that he -not only gave me leave to pass through his country, but would -offer up his prayers for my safety. On this, one of my -attendants, seemingly in return for the king’s -condescension, began to sing, or rather to roar an Arabic song, -at every pause of which the king himself, and all the people -present, struck their hands against their foreheads, and -exclaimed, with devout and affecting solemnity, -“<i>Amen</i>, <i>amen</i>!” The king told me, -furthermore, that I should have a guide the day following, who -would conduct me safely to the frontier of his kingdom—I -then took my leave, and in the evening sent the king an order -upon Dr. Laidley for three gallons of rum, and received in return -great store of provisions.</p> -<p><i>December</i> 6.—Early in the morning I went to the -king a second time, to learn if the guide was ready. I -found his Majesty seated upon a bullock’s hide, warming -himself before a large fire, for the Africans are sensible of the -smallest variation in the temperature of the air, and frequently -complain of cold when a European is oppressed with heat. He -received me with a benevolent countenance, and tenderly entreated -me to desist from my purpose of travelling into the interior, -telling me that Major Houghton had been killed in his route, and -that if I followed his footsteps I should probably meet with his -fate. He said that I must not judge of the people of the -eastern country by those of Woolli: that the latter were -acquainted with white men, and respected them, whereas the people -of the east had never seen a white man, and would certainly -destroy me. I thanked the king for his affectionate -solicitude, but told him that I had considered the matter, and -was determined, notwithstanding all dangers, to proceed. -The king shook his head, but desisted from further persuasion, -and told me the guide should be ready in the afternoon.</p> -<p>About two o’clock, the guide appearing, I went and took -my last farewell of the good old king, and in three hours reached -Konjour, a small village, where we determined to rest for the -night. Here I purchased a fine sheep for some beads, and my -Serawoolli attendants killed it with all the ceremonies -prescribed by their religion. Part of it was dressed for -supper, after which a dispute arose between one of the Serawoolli -negroes, and Johnson, my interpreter, about the sheep’s -horns. The former claimed the horns as his perquisite, for -having acted the part of our butcher, and Johnson contested the -claim. I settled the matter by giving a horn to each of -them. This trifling incident is mentioned as introductory -to what follows, for it appeared on inquiry that these horns were -highly valued, as being easily convertible into portable sheaths, -or cases, for containing and keeping secure certain charms or -amulets called <i>saphies</i>, which the negroes constantly wear -about them. These saphies are prayers, or rather sentences, -from the Koran, which the Mohammedan priests write on scraps of -paper, and sell to the simple natives, who consider them to -possess very extraordinary virtues. Some of the negroes -wear them to guard themselves against the bite of snakes or -alligators; and on this occasion the saphie is commonly enclosed -in a snake’s or alligator’s skin, and tied round the -ankle. Others have recourse to them in time of war, to -protect their persons against hostile weapons; but the common use -to which these amulets are applied is to prevent or cure bodily -diseases—to preserve from hunger and thirst—and -generally to conciliate the favour of superior powers, under all -the circumstances and occurrences of life. <a -name="citation41"></a><a href="#footnote41" -class="citation">[41]</a></p> -<p>In this case it is impossible not to admire the wonderful -contagion of superstition, for, notwithstanding that the majority -of the negroes are pagans, and absolutely reject the doctrines of -Mohammed, I did not meet with a man, whether a bushreen or kafir, -who was not fully persuaded of the powerful efficacy of these -amulets. The truth is, that all the natives of this part of -Africa consider the art of writing as bordering on magic; and it -is not in the doctrines of the prophet, but in the arts of the -magician, that their confidence is placed. It will -hereafter be seen that I was myself lucky enough, in -circumstances of distress, to turn the popular credulity in this -respect to good account.</p> -<p>On the 7th I departed from Konjour, and slept at a village -called Malla (or Mallaing), and on the 8th about noon I arrived -at Kolor, a considerable town, near the entrance into which I -observed, hanging upon a tree, a sort of masquerade habit, made -of the bark of trees, which I was told, on inquiry, belonged to -<i>Mumbo Jumbo</i>. This is a strange bugbear, common to -all the Mandingo towns, and much employed by the pagan natives in -keeping their women in subjection; for as the kafirs are not -restricted in the number of their wives, every one marries as -many as he can conveniently maintain—and as it frequently -happens that the ladies disagree among themselves, family -quarrels sometimes rise to such a height, that the authority of -the husband can no longer preserve peace in his household. -In such cases, the interposition of Mumbo Jumbo is called in, and -is always decisive.</p> -<p>This strange minister of justice (who is supposed to be either -the husband himself, or some person instructed by him), disguised -in the dress that has been mentioned, and armed with the rod of -public authority, announces his coming (whenever his services are -required) by loud and dismal screams in the woods near the -town. He begins the pantomime at the approach of night; and -as soon as it is dark he enters the town, and proceeds to the -bentang, at which all the inhabitants immediately assemble.</p> -<p><i>December</i> 9.—As there was no water to be procured -on the road, we travelled with great expedition until we reached -Tambacunda; and departing from thence early the next morning, the -10th, we reached in the evening Kooniakary, a town of nearly the -same magnitude as Kolor. About noon on the 11th we arrived -at Koojar, the frontier town of Woolli, towards Bondou, from -which it is separated by an intervening wilderness of two -days’ journey.</p> -<p>The guide appointed by the king of Woolli being now to return, -I presented him with some amber for his trouble; and having been -informed that it was not possible at all times to procure water -in the wilderness, I made inquiry for men who would serve both as -guides and water-bearers during my journey across it. Three -negroes, elephant-hunters, offered their services for these -purposes, which I accepted, and paid them three bars each in -advance; and the day being far spent, I determined to pass the -night in my present quarters.</p> -<p>The inhabitants of Koojar, though not wholly unaccustomed to -the sight of Europeans (most of them having occasionally visited -the countries on the Gambia), beheld me with a mixture of -curiosity and reverence, and in the evening invited me to see a -<i>neobering</i>, or wrestling-match, at the bentang. This -is an exhibition very common in all the Mandingo countries. -The spectators arranged themselves in a circle, leaving the -intermediate space for the wrestlers, who were strong active -young men, full of emulation, and accustomed, I suppose, from -their infancy to this sort of exertion. Being stripped of -their clothing, except a short pair of drawers, and having their -skin anointed with oil, or <i>shea</i> butter, the combatants -approached each other on all-fours, parrying with, and -occasionally extending a hand for some time, till at length one -of them sprang forward, and caught his rival by the knee. -Great dexterity and judgment were now displayed, but the contest -was decided by superior strength; and I think that few Europeans -would have been able to cope with the conqueror. It must -not be unobserved, that the combatants were animated by the music -of a drum, by which their actions were in some measure -regulated.</p> -<p>The wrestling was succeeded by a dance, in which many -performers assisted, all of whom were provided with little bells, -which were fastened to their legs and arms; and here, too, the -drum regulated their motions. It was beaten with a crooked -stick, which the drummer held in his right hand, occasionally -using his left to deaden the sound, and thus vary the -music. The drama is likewise applied on these occasions to -keep order among the spectators, by imitating the sound of -certain Mandingo sentences. For example, when the -wrestling-match is about to begin, the drummer strikes what is -understood to signify <i>ali bæ see</i> (sit all down), -upon which the spectators immediately seat themselves; and when -the combatants are to begin, he strikes <i>amuta</i>! -<i>amuta</i>! (take hold! take hold!)</p> -<p>In the course of the evening I was presented, by way of -refreshment, with a liquor, which tasted so much like the strong -beer of my native country (and very good beer too), as to induce -me to inquire into its composition; and I learnt, with some -degree of surprise, that it was actually made from corn which had -been previously malted, much in the same manner as barley is -malted in Great Britain. A root yielding a grateful bitter -was used in lieu of hops, the name of which I have forgotten; but -the corn which yields the wort is the <i>holcus spicatus</i> of -botanists.</p> -<p>Early in the morning (the 12th) I found that one of the -elephant-hunters had absconded with the money he had received -from me in part of wages; and in order to prevent the other two -from following his example, I made them instantly fill their -calabashes (or gourds) with water; and as the sun rose, I entered -the wilderness that separates the kingdoms of Woolli and -Bondou.</p> -<p>We continued our journey without stopping any more until noon, -when we came to a large tree, called by the natives <i>neema -taba</i>. It had a very singular appearance, being -decorated with innumerable rags or scraps of cloth, which persons -travelling across the wilderness had at different times tied to -the branches, probably at first to inform the traveller that -water was to be found near it; but the custom has been so greatly -sanctioned by time, that nobody now presumes to pass without -hanging up something. I followed the example, and suspended -a handsome piece of cloth on one of the boughs; and being told -that either a well, or pool of water, was at no great distance, I -ordered the negroes to unload the asses, that we might give them -corn, and regale ourselves with the provisions we had -brought. In the meantime, I sent one of the -elephant-hunters to look for the well, intending, if water was to -be obtained, to rest here for the night. A pool was found, -but the water was thick and muddy, and the negro discovered near -it the remains of a fire recently extinguished, and the fragments -of provisions, which afforded a proof that it had been lately -visited, either by travellers or banditti. The fears of my -attendants supposed the latter; and believing that robbers lurked -near as, I was persuaded to change my resolution of resting here -all night, and proceed to another watering-place, which I was -assured we might reach early in the evening.</p> -<p>We departed accordingly, but it was eight o’clock at -night before we came to the watering-place; and being now -sufficiently fatigued with so long a day’s journey, we -kindled a large fire and lay down, surrounded by our cattle, on -the bare ground, more than a gunshot from any bush, the negroes -agreeing to keep watch by turns to prevent surprise.</p> -<p>I know not, indeed, that any danger was justly to be dreaded, -but the negroes were unaccountably apprehensive of banditti -during the whole of the journey. As soon, therefore, as -daylight appeared, we filled our <i>soofroos</i> (skins) and -calabashes at the pool, and set out for Tallika, the first town -in Bondou, which we reached about eleven o’clock in the -forenoon (the 13th of December).</p> -<h2>CHAPTER IV.<br /> -<span class="GutSmall">FROM TALLIKA TO KAJAAGA.</span></h2> -<p><span class="smcap">Tallika</span>, the frontier town of -Bondou towards Woolli, is inhabited chiefly by Foulahs of the -Mohammedan religion, who live in considerable affluence, partly -by furnishing provisions to the coffles, or caravans, that pass -through the town, and partly by the sale of ivory, obtained by -hunting elephants, in which employment the young men are -generally very successful. Here an officer belonging to the -king of Bondou constantly resides, whose business it is to give -timely information of the arrival of the caravans, which are -taxed according to the number of loaded asses that arrive at -Tallika.</p> -<p>I took up my residence at this officer’s house, and -agreed with him to accompany me to Fatteconda, the residence of -the king, for which he was to receive five bars; and before my -departure I wrote a few lines to Dr. Laidley, and gave my letter -to the master of a caravan bound for the Gambia. This -caravan consisted of nine or ten people, with five asses loaded -with ivory. The large teeth are conveyed in nets, two on -each side of the ass; the small ones are wrapped up in skins, and -secured with ropes.</p> -<p><i>December</i> 14.—We left Tallika, and rode on very -peaceably for about two miles, when a violent quarrel arose -between two of my fellow-travellers, one of whom was the -blacksmith, in the course of which they bestowed some opprobrious -terms upon each other; and it is worthy of remark, that an -African will sooner forgive a blow than a term of reproach -applied to his ancestors. “Strike me, but do not -curse my mother,” is a common expression even among the -slaves. This sort of abuse, therefore, so enraged one of -the disputants, that he drew his cutlass upon the blacksmith, and -would certainly have ended the dispute in a very serious manner, -if the others had not laid hold of him and wrested the cutlass -from him. I was obliged to interfere, and put an end to -this disagreeable business by desiring the blacksmith to be -silent, and telling the other, who I thought was in the wrong, -that if he attempted in future to draw his cutlass, or molest any -of my attendants, I should look upon him as a robber, and shoot -him without further ceremony. This threat had the desired -effect, and we marched sullenly along till the afternoon, when we -arrived at a number of small villages scattered over an open and -fertile plain. At one of these, called Ganado, we took up -our residence for the night; here an exchange of presents and a -good supper terminated all animosities among my attendants, and -the night was far advanced before any of us thought of going to -sleep. We were amused by an itinerant <i>singing man</i>, -who told a number of diverting stories, and played some sweet -airs by blowing his breath upon a bow-string, and striking it at -the same time with a stick.</p> -<p><i>December</i> 15.—At daybreak my fellow-travellers, -the Serawoollies, took leave of me, with many prayers for my -safety. About a mile from Ganado we crossed a considerable -branch of the Gambia, called Neriko. The banks were steep -and covered with mimosas; and I observed in the mud a number of -large mussels, but the natives do not eat them. About noon, -the sun being exceedingly hot, we rested two hours in the shade -of a tree, and purchased some milk and pounded corn from some -Foulah herdsmen, and at sunset reached a town called Koorkarany, -where the blacksmith had some relations; and here we rested two -days.</p> -<p>Koorkarany is a Mohammedan town surrounded by a high wall, and -is provided with a mosque. Here I was shown a number of -Arabic manuscripts, particularly a copy of the book before -mentioned, called <i>Al Sharra</i>. The <i>maraboo</i>, or -priest, in whose possession it was, read and explained to me in -Mandingo many of the most remarkable passages, and, in return, I -showed him Richardson’s Arabic Grammar, which he very much -admired.</p> -<p>On the evening of the second day (December 17) we departed -from Koorkarany. We were joined by a young man who was -travelling to Fatteconda for salt; and as night set in we reached -Dooggi, a small village about three miles from Koorkarany.</p> -<p>Provisions were here so cheap that I purchased a bullock for -six small stones of amber; for I found my company increase or -diminish according to the good fare they met with.</p> -<p><i>December</i> 18.—Early in the morning we departed -from Dooggi, and, being joined by a number of Foulahs and other -people, made a formidable appearance, and were under no -apprehension of being plundered in the woods. About eleven -o’clock, one of the asses proving very refractory, the -negroes took a curious method to make him tractable. They -cut a forked stick, and putting the forked part into the -ass’s mouth, like the bit of a bridle, tied the two smaller -parts together above his head, leaving the lower part of the -stick of sufficient length to strike against the ground, if the -ass should attempt to put his head down. After this the ass -walked along quietly and gravely enough, taking care, after some -practice, to hold his head sufficiently high to prevent stones or -roots of trees from striking against the end of the stick, which -experience had taught him would give a severe shock to his -teeth. This contrivance produced a ludicrous appearance, -but my fellow-travellers told me it was constantly adopted by the -slatees, and always proved effectual.</p> -<p>In the evening we arrived at a few scattered villages, -surrounded with extensive cultivation, at one of which, called -Buggil, we passed the night in a miserable hut, having no other -bed than a bundle of corn-stalks, and no provisions but what we -brought with us. The wells here are dug with great -ingenuity, and are very deep. I measured one of the -bucket-ropes, and found the depth of the well to be twenty-eight -fathoms.</p> -<p><i>December</i> 19.—We departed from Buggil, and -travelled along a dry, stony height, covered with mimosas, till -mid-day, when the land sloped towards the east, and we descended -into a deep valley, in which I observed abundance of whinstone -and white quartz. Pursuing our course to the eastward, -along this valley in the bed of an exhausted river-course, we -came to a large village, where we intended to lodge. We -found many of the natives dressed in a thin French gauze, which -they called <i>byqui</i>; this being a light airy dress, and well -calculated to display the shape of their persons, is much -esteemed by the ladies. The manners of these females, -however, did not correspond with their dress, for they were rude -and troublesome in the highest degree; they surrounded me in -numbers, begging for amber, beads, &c., and were so vehement -in their solicitations, that I found it impossible to resist -them. They tore my cloak, cut the buttons from my -boy’s clothes, and were proceeding to other outrages, when -I mounted my horse and rode off, followed for half-a-mile by a -body of these harpies.</p> -<p>In the evening we reached Soobrudooka, and as my company was -numerous (being fourteen), I purchased a sheep and abundance of -corn for supper; after which we lay down by the bundles, and -passed an uncomfortable night in a heavy dew.</p> -<p><i>December</i> 20.—We departed from Soobrudooka, and at -two o’clock reached a large village situated on the banks -of the Falemé river, which is here rapid and rocky. -The natives were employed in fishing in various ways. The -large fish were taken in long baskets made of split cane, and -placed in a strong current, which was created by walls of stone -built across the stream, certain open places being left, through -which the water rushed with great force. Some of these -baskets were more than twenty feet long, and when once the fish -had entered one of them, the force of the stream prevented it -from returning. The small fish were taken in great numbers -in hand-nets, which the natives weave of cotton, and use with -great dexterity. The fish last mentioned are about the size -of sprats, and are prepared for sale in different ways; the most -common is by pounding them entire as they come from the stream, -in a wooden mortar, and exposing them to dry in the sun, in large -lumps like sugar loaves. It may be supposed that the smell -is not very agreeable; but in the Moorish countries to the north -of the Senegal, where fish is scarcely known, this preparation is -esteemed as a luxury, and sold to considerable advantage. -The manner of using it by the natives is by dissolving a piece of -this black loaf in boiling water, and mixing it with their -kouskous.</p> -<p>On returning to the village, after an excursion to the -river-side to inspect the fishery, an old Moorish shereef came to -bestow his blessing upon me, and beg some paper to write saphies -upon. This man had seen Major Houghton in the kingdom of -Kaarta, and told me that he died in the country of the Moors.</p> -<p>About three in the afternoon we continued our course along the -bank of the river to the northward, till eight o’clock, -when we reached Nayemow. Here the hospitable master of the -town received us kindly, and presented us with a bullock. -In return I gave him some amber and beads.</p> -<p><i>December</i> 21.—In the morning, having agreed for a -canoe to carry over my bundles, I crossed the river, which came -up to my knees as I sat on my horse; but the water is so clear, -that from the high bank the bottom is visible all the way -over.</p> -<p>About noon we entered Fatteconda, the capital of Bondou, and -in a little time received an invitation to the house of a -respectable slatee: for as there are no public-houses in Africa, -it is customary for strangers to stand at the bentang, or some -other place of public resort, till they are invited to a lodging -by some of the inhabitants. We accepted the offer; and in -an hour afterwards a person came and told me that he was sent on -purpose to conduct me to the king, who was very desirous of -seeing me immediately, if I was not too much fatigued.</p> -<p>I took my interpreter with me, and followed the messenger till -we got quite out of the town, and crossed some corn-fields; when, -suspecting some trick, I stopped, and asked the guide whither he -was going. Upon which, he pointed to a man sitting under a -tree at some little distance, and told me that the king -frequently gave audience in that retired manner, in order to -avoid a crowd of people, and that nobody but myself and my -interpreter must approach him. When I advanced the king -desired me to come and sit by him upon the mat; and, after -hearing my story, on which be made no observation, he asked if I -wished to purchase any slaves or gold. Being answered in -the negative, he seemed rather surprised, but desired me to come -to him in the evening, and he would give me some provisions.</p> -<p>This monarch was called Almami, a Moorish name, though I was -told that he was not a Mohammedan, but a kafir or pagan. I -had heard that he had acted towards Major Houghton with great -unkindness, and caused him to be plundered. His behaviour, -therefore, towards myself at this interview, though much more -civil than I expected, was far from freeing me from -uneasiness. I still apprehended some double-dealing; and as -I was now entirely in his power, I thought it best to smooth the -way by a present. Accordingly, I took with me in the -evening one canister of gunpowder, some amber, tobacco, and my -umbrella; and as I considered that my bundles would inevitably be -searched, I concealed some few articles in the roof of the hut -where I lodged, and I put on my new blue coat in order to -preserve it.</p> -<p>All the houses belonging to the king and his family are -surrounded by a lofty mud wall, which converts the whole into a -kind of citadel. The interior is subdivided into different -courts. At the first place of entrance I observed a man -standing with a musket on his shoulder; and I found the way to -the presence very intricate, leading through many passages, with -sentinels placed at the different doors. When we came to -the entrance of the court in which the king resides, both my -guide and interpreter, according to custom, took off their -sandals; and the former pronounced the king’s name aloud, -repeating it till he was answered from within. We found the -monarch sitting upon a mat, and two attendants with him. I -repeated what I had before told him concerning the object of my -journey, and my reasons for passing through his country. He -seemed, however, but half satisfied. When I offered to show -him the contents of my portmanteau, and everything belonging to -me, he was convinced; and it was evident that his suspicion had -arisen from a belief that every white man must of necessity be a -trader. When I had delivered my presents, he seemed well -pleased, and was particularly delighted with the umbrella, which -he repeatedly furled and unfurled, to the great admiration of -himself and his two attendants, who could not for some time -comprehend the use of this wonderful machine. After this I -was about to take my leave, when the king, desiring me to stop a -while, began a long preamble in favour of the whites, extolling -their immense wealth and good dispositions. He next -proceeded to an eulogium on my blue coat, of which the yellow -buttons seemed particularly to catch his fancy; and he concluded -by entreating me to present him with it, assuring me, for my -consolation under the loss of it, that he would wear it on all -public occasions, and inform every one who saw it of my great -liberality towards him. The request of an African prince, -in his own dominions, particularly when made to a stranger, comes -little short of a command. It is only a way of obtaining by -gentle means what he can, if he pleases, take by force; and as it -was against my interest to offend him by a refusal, I very -quietly took off my coat, the only good one in my possession, and -laid it at his feet.</p> -<p>In return for my compliance, he presented me with great plenty -of provisions, and desired to see me again in the morning. -I accordingly attended, and found in sitting upon his bed. -He told me he was sick, and wished to have a little blood taken -from him; but I had no sooner, tied up his arm and displayed the -lancet, than his courage failed, and he begged me to postpone the -operation till the afternoon, as he felt himself, he said, much -better than he had been, and thanked me kindly for my readiness -to serve him. He then observed that his women were very -desirous to see me, and requested that I would favour them with a -visit. An attendant was ordered to conduct me; and I had no -sooner entered the court appropriated to the ladies, than the -whole seraglio surrounded me—some begging for physic, some -for amber, and all of them desirous of trying that great African -specific, <i>blood-letting</i>. They were ten or twelve in -number, most of them young and handsome, and wearing on their -heads ornaments of gold, and beads of amber.</p> -<p>They rallied me with a good deal of gaiety on different -subjects, particularly upon the whiteness of my skin and the -prominency of my nose. They insisted that both were -artificial. The first, they said, was produced when I was -an infant, by dipping me in milk; and they insisted that my nose -had been pinched every day, till it had acquired its present -unsightly and unnatural conformation. On my part, without -disputing my own deformity, I paid them many compliments on -African beauty. I praised the glossy jet of their skins, -and the lovely depression of their noses; but they said that -flattery, or, as they emphatically termed it, <i>honey-mouth</i>, -was not esteemed in Bondou. In return, however, for my -company or my compliments (to which, by the way, they seemed not -so insensible as they affected to be) they presented me with a -jar of honey and some fish, which were sent to my lodging; and I -was desired to come again to the king a little before sunset.</p> -<p>I carried with me some beads and writing-paper, it being usual -to present some small offering on taking leave, in return for -which the king gave me five drachms of gold, observing that it -was but a trifle, and given out of pure friendship, but would be -of use to me in travelling, for the purchase of provisions. -He seconded this act of kindness by one still greater, politely -telling me that, though it was customary to examine the baggage -of every traveller passing through his country, yet, in the -present instance, he would dispense without ceremony, adding, I -was at liberty to depart when I pleased.</p> -<p>Accordingly, on the morning of the 23rd, we left Fatteconda, -and about eleven o’clock came to a small village, where we -determined to stop for the rest of the day.</p> -<p>In the afternoon my fellow-travellers informed me that, as -this was the boundary between Bondou and Kajaaga, and dangerous -for travellers, it would be necessary to continue our journey by -night, until we should reach a more hospitable part of the -country. I agreed to the proposal, and hired two people for -guides through the woods; and as soon as the people of the -village were gone to sleep (the moon shining bright) we set -out. The stillness of the air, the howling of the wild -beasts, and the deep solitude of the forest, made the scene -solemn and oppressive. Not a word was uttered by any of us -but in a whisper; all were attentive, and every one anxious to -show his sagacity by pointing out to me the wolves and -hyænas, as they glided like shadows from one thicket to -another. Towards morning we arrived at a village called -Kimmoo, where our guides awakened one of their acquaintances, and -we stopped to give the asses some corn, and roast a few -ground-nuts for ourselves. At daylight we resumed our -journey, and in the afternoon arrived at Joag, in the kingdom of -Kajaaga.</p> -<p>Being now in a country and among a people differing in many -respects from those that have as yet fallen under our -observation, I shall, before I proceed further, give some account -of Bondou (the territory we have left) and its inhabitants, the -Foulahs, the description of whom I purposely reserved for this -part of my work.</p> -<p>Bondou is bounded on the east by Bambouk, on the south-east -and south by Tenda and the Simbani wilderness, on the south-west -by Woolli, on the west by Foota Torra, and on the north by -Kajaaga.</p> -<p>The country, like that of Woolli, is very generally covered -with woods, but the land is more elevated, and, towards the -Falemé river, rises into considerable hills. In -native fertility the soil is not surpassed, I believe, by any -part of Africa.</p> -<p>From the central situation of Bondou, between the Gambia and -Senegal rivers, it is become a place of great resort, both for -the slatees, who generally pass through it on going from the -coast to the interior countries, and for occasional traders, who -frequently come hither from the inland countries to purchase -salt.</p> -<p>These different branches of commerce are conducted principally -by Mandingoes and Serawoollies, who have settled in the -country. These merchants likewise carry on a considerable -trade with Gedumah and other Moorish countries, bartering corn -and blue cotton cloths for salt, which they again barter in -Dentila and other districts for iron, shea-butter, and small -quantities of gold-dust. They likewise sell a variety of -sweet-smelling gums, packed up in small bags, containing each -about a pound. These gums, being thrown on hot embers, -produce a very pleasant odour, and are used by the Mandingoes for -perfuming their huts and clothes.</p> -<p>The customs, or duties on travellers, are very heavy; in -almost every town an ass-load pays a bar of European merchandise, -and at Fatteconda, the residence of the king, one Indian baft, or -a musket, and six bottles of gunpowder, are exacted as the common -tribute. By means of these duties, the king of Bondou is -well supplied with arms and ammunition—a circumstance which -makes him formidable to the neighbouring states.</p> -<p>The inhabitants differ in their complexions and national -manners from the Mandingoes and Serawoollies, with whom they are -frequently at war. Some years ago the king of Bondou -crossed the Falemé river with a numerous army; and, after -a short and bloody campaign, totally defeated the forces of -Samboo, king of Bambouk, who was obliged to sue for peace, and -surrender to him all the towns along the eastern bank of the -Falemé.</p> -<p>The Foulahs in general (as has been observed in a former -chapter) are of a tawny complexion, with small features and soft -silky hair; next to the Mandingoes, they are undoubtedly the most -considerable of all the nations in this part of Africa. -Their original country is said to be Fooladoo (which signifies -the country of the Foulahs); but they possess at present many -other kingdoms at a great distance from each other; their -complexion, however, is not exactly the same in the different -districts; in Bondou, and the other kingdoms which are situated -in the vicinity of the Moorish territories, they are of a more -yellow complexion than in the southern states.</p> -<p>The Foulahs of Bondou are naturally of a mild and gentle -disposition, but the uncharitable maxims of the Koran have made -them less hospitable to strangers, and more reserved in their -behaviour, than the Mandingoes. They evidently consider all -the negro natives as their inferiors; and, when talking of -different nations, always rank themselves among the white -people.</p> -<p>Their government differs from that of the Mandingoes chiefly -in this, that they are more immediately under the influence of -Mohammedan laws; for all the chief men, the king excepted, and a -large majority of the inhabitants of Bondou, are Mussulmans, and -the authority and laws of the Prophet are everywhere looked upon -as sacred and decisive. In the exercise of their faith, -however, they are not very intolerant towards such of their -countrymen as still retain their ancient superstitions. -Religious persecution is not known among them, nor is it -necessary; for the system of Mohammed is made to extend itself by -means abundantly more efficacious. By establishing small -schools in the different towns, where many of the pagan as well -as Mohammedan children are taught to read the Koran, and -instructed in the tenets of the Prophet, the Mohammedan priests -fix a bias on the minds, and form the character, of their young -disciples, which no accidents of life can ever afterwards remove -or alter. Many of these little schools I visited in my -progress through the country, and I observed with pleasure the -great docility and submissive deportment of the children, and -heartily wished they had had better instructors and a purer -religion.</p> -<p>With the Mohammedan faith is also introduced the Arabic -language, with which most of the Foulahs have a slight -acquaintance. Their native tongue abounds very much in -liquids, but there is something unpleasant in the manner of -pronouncing it. A stranger, on hearing the common -conversation of two Foulahs, would imagine that they were -scolding each other. Their numerals are these:—</p> -<table> -<tr> -<td><p>One</p> -</td> -<td><p>Go.</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Two</p> -</td> -<td><p>Deeddee.</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Three</p> -</td> -<td><p>Tettee.</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Four</p> -</td> -<td><p>Nee.</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Five</p> -</td> -<td><p>Jouee.</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Six</p> -</td> -<td><p>Jego.</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Seven</p> -</td> -<td><p>Jedeeddee.</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Eight</p> -</td> -<td><p>Je Tettee.</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Nine</p> -</td> -<td><p>Je Nee.</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Ten</p> -</td> -<td><p>Sappo.</p> -</td> -</tr> -</table> -<p>The industry of the Foulahs, in the occupations of pasturage -and agriculture, is everywhere remarkable. Even on the -banks of the Gambia, the greater part of the corn is raised by -them, and their herds and flocks are more numerous and in better -condition than those of the Mandingoes; but in Bondou they are -opulent in a high degree, and enjoy all the necessaries of life -in the greatest profusion. They display great skill in the -management of their cattle, making them extremely gentle by -kindness and familiarity. On the approach of the night, -they are collected from the woods and secured in folds called -<i>korrees</i>, which are constructed in the neighbourhood of the -different villages. In the middle of each korree is erected -a small hut, wherein one or two of the herdsmen keep watch during -the night, to prevent the cattle from being stolen, and to keep -up the fires which are kindled round the korree to frighten away -the wild beasts.</p> -<p>The cattle are milked in the mornings and evenings: the milk -is excellent; but the quantity obtained from any one cow is by no -means so great as in Europe. The Foulahs use the milk -chiefly as an article of diet, and that not until it is quite -sour. The cream which it affords is very thick, and is -converted into butter by stirring it violently in a large -calabash. This butter, when melted over a gentle fire, and -freed from impurities, is preserved in small earthen pots, and -forms a part in most of their dishes; it serves likewise to -anoint their heads, and is bestowed very liberally on their faces -and arms.</p> -<p>But although milk is plentiful, it is somewhat remarkable that -the Foulahs, and indeed all the inhabitants of this part of -Africa, are totally unacquainted with the art of making -cheese. A firm attachment to the customs of their ancestors -makes them view with an eye of prejudice everything that looks -like innovation. The heat of the climate and the great -scarcity of salt are held forth as unanswerable objections; and -the whole process appears to them too long and troublesome to be -attended with any solid advantage.</p> -<p>Besides the cattle, which constitute the chief wealth of the -Foulahs, they possess some excellent horses, the breed of which -seems to be a mixture of the Arabian with the original -African.</p> -<h2>CHAPTER V.<br /> -<span class="GutSmall">FROM KAJAAGA TO KASSON.</span></h2> -<p><span class="smcap">The</span> kingdom of Kajaaga, in which I -was now arrived, is called by the French Gallam, but the name -that I have adopted is universally used by the natives. -This country is bounded on the south-east and south by Bambouk, -on the west by Bondou and Foota-Torra, and on the north by the -river Senegal.</p> -<p>The air and climate are, I believe, more pure and salubrious -than at any of the settlements towards the coast; the face of the -country is everywhere interspersed with a pleasing variety of -hills and valleys; and the windings of the Senegal river, which -descends from the rocky hills of the interior, make the scenery -on its banks very picturesque and beautiful.</p> -<p>The inhabitants are called Serawoollies, or (as the French -write it) <i>Seracolets</i>. Their complexion is a jet -black: they are not to be distinguished in this respect from the -Jaloffs.</p> -<p>The government is monarchical, and the regal authority, from -what I experienced of it, seems to be sufficiently -formidable. The people themselves, however, complain of no -oppression, and seemed all very anxious to support the king in a -contest he was going to enter into with the sovereign of -Kasson. The Serawoollies are habitually a trading people; -they formerly carried on a great commerce with the French in gold -and slaves, and still maintain some traffic in slaves with the -British factories on the Gambia. They are reckoned -tolerably fair and just in their dealings, but are indefatigable -in their exertions to acquire wealth, and they derive -considerable profits by the sale of salt and cotton cloth in -distant countries. When a Serawoolli merchant returns home -from a trading expedition the neighbours immediately assemble to -congratulate him upon his arrival. On these occasions the -traveller displays his wealth and liberality by making a few -presents to his friends; but if he has been unsuccessful his -levee is soon over, and every one looks upon him as a man of no -understanding, who could perform a long journey, and (at they -express it) “bring back nothing but the hair upon his -head.”</p> -<p>Their language abounds much in gutturals, and is not so -harmonious as that spoken by the Foulahs. It is, however, -well worth acquiring by those who travel through this part of the -African continent, it being very generally understood in the -kingdoms of Kasson, Kaarta, Ludamar, and the northern parts of -Bambarra. In all these countries the Serawoollies are the -chief traders. Their numerals are:—</p> -<table> -<tr> -<td><p>One</p> -</td> -<td><p>Bani.</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Two</p> -</td> -<td><p>Fillo.</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Three</p> -</td> -<td><p>Sicco.</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Four</p> -</td> -<td><p>Narrato.</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Five</p> -</td> -<td><p>Karrago.</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Six</p> -</td> -<td><p>Toomo.</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Seven</p> -</td> -<td><p>Nero.</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Eight</p> -</td> -<td><p>Sego.</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Nine</p> -</td> -<td><p>Kabbo.</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Ten</p> -</td> -<td><p>Tamo.</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Twenty</p> -</td> -<td><p>Tamo di Fillo.</p> -</td> -</tr> -</table> -<p>We arrived at Joag, the frontier town of this kingdom, on the -24th of December, and took up our residence at the house of the -chief man, who is here no longer known by the title of alkaid, -but is called the <i>dooty</i>. He was a rigid Mohammedan, -but distinguished for his hospitality. This town may be -supposed, on a gross computation, to contain two thousand -inhabitants. It is surrounded by a high wall, in which are -a number of port-holes, for musketry to fire through, in case of -an attack. Every man’s possession is likewise -surrounded by a wall, the whole forming so many distinct -citadels; and amongst a people unacquainted with the use of -artillery these walls answer all the purposes of stronger -fortifications. To the westward of the town is a small -river, on the banks of which the natives raise great plenty of -tobacco and onions.</p> -<p>The same evening Madiboo, the bushreen, who had accompanied me -from Pisania, went to pay a visit to his father and mother, who -dwelt at a neighbouring town called Dramanet. He was joined -by my other attendant, the blacksmith. As soon as it was -dark I was invited to see the sports of the inhabitants, it being -their custom, on the arrival of strangers, to welcome them by -diversions of different kinds. I found a great crowd -surrounding a party who were dancing, by the light of some large -fires, to the music of four drums, which were beat with great -exactness and uniformity. The dances, however, consisted -more in wanton gestures than in muscular exertion or graceful -attitudes. The ladies vied with each other in displaying -the most voluptuous movements imaginable.</p> -<p><i>December</i> 25.—About two o’clock in the -morning a number of horsemen came into the town, and, having -awakened my landlord, talked to him for some time in the -Serawoolli tongue; after which they dismounted and came to the -bentang, on which I had made my bed. One of them, thinking -that I was asleep, attempted to steal the musket that lay by me -on the mat, but finding that he could not effect his purpose -undiscovered, he desisted, and the strangers sat down by me till -daylight.</p> -<p>I could now easily perceive, by the countenance of my -interpreter, Johnson, that something very unpleasant was in -agitation. I was likewise surprised to see Madiboo and the -blacksmith so soon returned. On inquiring the reason, -Madiboo informed me that, as they were dancing at Dramanet, ten -horsemen belonging to Batcheri, king of the country, with his -second son at their head, had arrived there, inquiring if the -white man had passed, and, on being told that I was at Joag, they -rode off without stopping. Madiboo added that on hearing -this he and the blacksmith hastened back to give me notice of -their coming. Whilst I was listening to this narrative the -ten horsemen mentioned by Madiboo arrived, and coming to the -bentang, dismounted and seated themselves with those who had come -before—the whole being about twenty in number—forming -a circle round me, and each man holding his musket in his -hand. I took this opportunity to observe to my landlord -that, as I did not understand the Serawoolli tongue, I hoped -whatever the men had to say they would speak in Mandingo. -To this they agreed; and a short man, loaded with a remarkable -number of saphies, opened the business in a very long harangue, -informing me that I had entered the king’s town without -having first paid the duties, or giving any present to the king; -and that, according to the laws of the country, my people, -cattle, and baggage were forfeited. He added that they had -received orders from the king to conduct me to Maana, <a -name="citation70"></a><a href="#footnote70" -class="citation">[70]</a> the place of his residence, and if I -refused to come with them their orders were to bring me by force; -upon his saying which all of them rose up and asked me if I was -ready. It would have been equally vain and imprudent in me -to have resisted or irritated such a body of men; I therefore -affected to comply with their commands, and begged them only to -stop a little until I had given my horse a feed of corn, and -settled matters with my landlord. The poor blacksmith, who -was a native of Kasson, mistook this feigned compliance for a -real intention, and taking me away from the company, told me that -he had always behaved towards me as if I had been his father and -master, and he hoped I would not entirely ruin him by going to -Maana, adding that as there was every reason to believe a war -would soon take place between Kasson and Kajaaga, he should not -only lose his little property, the savings of four years’ -industry, but should certainly be detained and sold as a slave, -unless his friends had an opportunity of paying two slaves for -his redemption. I saw this reasoning in its full force, and -determined to do my utmost to preserve the blacksmith from so -dreadful a fate. I therefore told the king’s son that -I was ready to go with him, upon condition that, the blacksmith, -who was an inhabitant of a distant kingdom, and entirely -unconnected with me, should be allowed to stay at Joag till my -return. To this they all objected, and insisted that, as we -had all acted contrary to the laws, we were all equally -answerable for our conduct.</p> -<p>I now took my landlord aside, and giving him a small present -of gunpowder, asked his advice in such critical a -situation. He was decidedly of opinion that I ought not to -go to the king: he was fully convinced, he said, that if the king -should discover anything valuable in my possession, he would not -be over scrupulous about the means of obtaining it.</p> -<p>Towards the evening, as I was sitting upon the bentang chewing -straws, an old female slave, passing by with a basket upon her -head, asked me <i>if had got my dinner</i>. As I thought -she only laughed at me, I gave her no answer; but my boy, who was -sitting close by, answered for me, and told her that the -king’s people had robbed me of all my money. On -hearing this, the good old woman, with a look of unaffected -benevolence, immediately took the basket from her head, and -showing me that it contained ground nuts, asked me if I could eat -them. Being answered in the affirmative, she presented me -with a few handfuls, and walked away before I had time to thank -her for this seasonable supply.</p> -<p>The old woman had scarcely left me when I received information -that a nephew of Demba Sego Jalla, the Mandingo king of Kasson, -was coming to pay me a visit. He had been sent on an -embassy to Batcheri, King of Kajaaga, to endeavour to settle the -disputes which had arisen between his uncle and the latter; but -after debating the matter four days without success, he was now -on his return, and hearing that a white man was at Joag, on his -way to Kasson, curiosity brought in to see me. I -represented to him my situation and distresses, when he frankly -offered me his protection, and said he would be my guide to -Kasson (provided I would set out the next morning), and be -answerable for my safety. I readily and gratefully accepted -his offer, and was ready with my attendants by daylight on the -morning of the 27th of December.</p> -<p>My protector, whose name was Demba Sego, probably after his -uncle, had a numerous retinue. Our company, at leaving -Joag, consisted of thirty persons and six loaded asses; and we -rode on cheerfully enough for some hours, without any remarkable -occurrence until we came to a species of tree for which my -interpreter Johnson had made frequent inquiry. On finding -it, he desired us to stop, and producing a white chicken, which -he had purchased at Joag for the purpose, he tied it by the leg -to one of the branches, and then told us we might now safely -proceed, for that our journey would be prosperous.</p> -<p>At noon we had reached Gungadi, a large town where we stopped -about an hour, until some of the asses that had fallen behind -came up. Here I observed a number of date-trees, and a -mosque built of clay, with six turrets, on the pinnacles of which -were placed six ostrich eggs. A little before sunset we -arrived at the town of Samee, on the banks of the Senegal, which -is here a beautiful but shallow river, moving slowly over a bed -of sand and gravel. The banks are high, and covered with -verdure—the country is open and cultivated—and the -rocky hills of Fellow and Bambouk add much to the beauty of the -landscape.</p> -<p><i>December</i> 28.—We departed from Samee, and arrived -in the afternoon at Kayee, a large village, part of which is -situated on the north and part on the south side of the -river.</p> -<p>The ferryman then taking hold of the most steady of the horses -by a rope, led him into the water, and paddled the canoe a little -from the brink; upon which a general attack commenced upon the -other horses, who, finding themselves pelted and kicked on all -sides, unanimously plunged into the river, and followed their -companion. A few boys swam in after them; and, by laving -water upon them when they attempted to return, urged them -onwards; and we had the satisfaction in about fifteen minutes to -see them all safe on the other side. It was a matter of -greater difficulty to manage the asses; their natural -stubbornness of disposition made them endure a great deal of -pelting and shoving before they would venture into the water; and -when they had reached the middle of the stream, four of them -turned back, in spite of every exertion to get them -forwards. Two hours were spent in getting the whole of them -over; an hour more was employed in transporting the baggage; and -it was near sunset before the canoe returned, when Demba Sego and -myself embarked in this dangerous passage-boat, which the least -motion was like to overset. The king’s nephew thought -this a proper time to have a peep into a tin box of mine that -stood in the fore part of the canoe; and in stretching out his -band for it, he unfortunately destroyed the equilibrium, and -overset the canoe. Luckily we were not far advanced, and -got back to the shore without much difficulty; from whence, after -wringing the water from our clothes, we took a fresh departure, -and were soon afterwards safely landed in Kasson.</p> -<h2>CHAPTER VI.<br /> -<span class="GutSmall">TIGGITY SEGO’S PALAVER.</span></h2> -<p><span class="smcap">We</span> no sooner found ourselves safe -in Kasson than Demba Sego told me that we were now in his -uncle’s dominions, and he hoped I would consider, being now -out of danger, the obligation I owed to him, and make him a -suitable return for the trouble he had taken on my account by a -handsome present. This, as he knew how much had been -pilfered from me at Joag, was rather an unexpected proposition, -and I began to fear that I had not much improved my condition by -crossing the water; but as it would have been folly to complain I -made no observation upon his conduct, and gave him seven bars of -amber and some tobacco, with which he seemed to be content.</p> -<p>After a long day’s journey, in the course of which I -observed a number of large loose nodules of white granite, we -arrived at Teesee on the evening of December 29th, and were -accommodated in Demba Sego’s hut. The next morning he -introduced me to his father, Tiggity Sego, brother to the king of -Kasson, chief of Teesee. The old man viewed me with great -earnestness, having never, he said, beheld but one white man -before, whom by his description I immediately knew to be Major -Houghton.</p> -<p>In the afternoon one of his slaves eloped; and a general alarm -being given, every person that had a horse rode into the woods, -in the hopes of apprehending him, and Demba Sego begged the use -of my horse for the same purpose. I readily consented; and -in about an hour they all returned with the slave, who was -severely flogged, and afterwards put in irons. On the day -following (December 31st) Demba Sego was ordered to go with -twenty horsemen to a town in Gedumah, to adjust some dispute with -the Moors, a party of whom were supposed to have stolen three -horses from Teesee. Demba begged a second the time use of -my horse, adding that the sight of my bridle and saddle would -give him consequence among the Moors. This request also I -readily granted, and he promised to return at the end of three -days. During his absence I amused myself with walking about -the town, and conversing with the natives, who attended me -everywhere with great kindness and curiosity, and supplied me -with milk, eggs, and what other provisions I wanted, on very easy -terms.</p> -<p>Teesee is a large unwalled town, having no security against -the attack of an enemy except a sort of citadel in which Tiggity -and his family constantly reside. This town, according to -the report of the natives, was formerly inhabited only by a few -Foulah shepherds, who lived in considerable affluence by means of -the excellent meadows in the neighbourhood, in which they reared -great herds of cattle. But their prosperity attracting the -envy of some Mandingoes, the latter drove out the shepherds, and -took possession of their lands.</p> -<p>The present inhabitants, though they possess both cattle and -corn in abundance, are not over nice in articles of diet; rats, -moles, squirrels, snakes, locusts, are eaten without scruple by -the highest and lowest. My people were one evening invited -to a feast given by some of the townsmen, where, after making a -hearty meal of what they thought fish and kouskous, one of them -found a piece of hard skin in the dish, and brought it along with -him to show me what sort of fish they had been eating. On -examining the skin I found they had been feasting on a large -snake. Another custom still more extraordinary is that no -woman is allowed to eat an egg. This prohibition, whether -arising from ancient superstition or from the craftiness of some -old bushreen who loved eggs himself, is rigidly adhered to, and -nothing will more affront a woman of Teesee than to offer her an -egg. The custom is the more singular, as the men eat eggs -without scruple in the presence of their wives, and I never -observed the same prohibition in any other of the Mandingo -countries.</p> -<p>The third day after his son’s departure, Tiggity Sego -held a palaver on a very extraordinary occasion, which I -attended; and the debates on both sides of the question displayed -much ingenuity. The case was this:—A young man, a -kafir of considerable affluence, who had recently married a young -and handsome wife, applied to a very devout bushreen, or -Mussalman priest, of his acquaintance, to procure him saphies for -his protection during the approaching war. The bushreen -complied with the request; and in order, as he pretended, to -render the saphies more efficacious, enjoined the young man to -avoid any nuptial intercourse with his bride for the space of six -weeks. Severe as the injunction was, the kafir strictly -obeyed; and, without telling his wife the real cause, absented -himself from her company. In the meantime, it began to be -whispered at Teesee that the bushreen, who always performed his -evening devotions at the door of the kafir’s hut, was more -intimate with the young wife than he ought to be. At first -the good husband was unwilling to suspect the honour of his -sanctified friend, and one whole month elapsed before any -jealousy rose in his mind, but hearing the charge repeated, he at -last interrogated his wife on the subject, who frankly confessed -that the bushreen had seduced her. Hereupon the kafir put -her into confinement, and called a palaver upon the -bushreen’s conduct. The fact was clearly proved -against him; and he was sentenced to be sold into slavery, or to -find two slaves for his redemption, according to the pleasure of -the complainant. The injured husband, however, was -unwilling to proceed against his friend to such extremity, and -desired rather to have him publicly flogged before Tiggity -Sego’s gate. This was agreed to, and the sentence was -immediately executed. The culprit was tied by the hands to -a strong stake; and a long black rod being brought forth, the -executioner, after flourishing it round his head for some time, -applied it with such force and dexterity to the bushreen’s -back as to make him roar until the woods resounded with his -screams. The surrounding multitude, by their hooting and -laughing, manifested how much they enjoyed the punishment of this -old gallant; and it is worthy of remark that the number of -stripes was precisely the same as are enjoined by the Mosaic law, -<i>forty</i>, <i>save one</i>.</p> -<p>As there appeared great probability that Teesee, from its -being a frontier town, would be much exposed during the war to -the predatory incursions of the Moors of Gedumah, Tiggity Sego -had, before my arrival, sent round to the neighbouring villages -to beg or to purchase as much provisions as would afford -subsistence to the inhabitants for one whole year, independently -of the crop on the ground, which the Moors might destroy. -This project was well received by the country people, and they -fixed a day on which to bring all the provisions they could spare -to Teesee; and as my horse was not yet returned, I went, in the -afternoon of January 4th, 1796, to meet the escort with the -provisions.</p> -<p>It was composed of about 400 men, marching in good order, with -corn and ground nuts in large calabashes upon their heads. -They were preceded by a strong guard of bowmen, and followed by -eight musicians or singing men. As soon as they approached -the town the latter began a song, every verse of which was -answered by the company, and succeeded by a few strokes on the -large drums. In this manner they proceeded, amidst the -acclamations of the populace, till they reached the house of -Tiggity Sego, where the loads were deposited; and in the evening -they all assembled under the bentang tree, and spent the night in -dancing and merriment.</p> -<p>On the 5th of January an embassy of ten people belonging to -Almami Abdulkader, king of Foota-Torra, a country to the west of -Bondou, arrived at Teesee; and desiring Tiggity to call an -assembly of the inhabitants, announced publicly their -king’s determination to this effect:—‘That -unless all the people of Kasson would embrace the Mohammedan -religion, and evince their conversion by saying eleven public -prayers, he, the king of Foota-Torra, could not possibly stand -neuter in the present contest, but would certainly join his arms -to those of Kajaaga.’ A message of this nature from -so powerful a prince could not fail to create great alarm; and -the inhabitants of Teesee, after a long consultation, agreed to -conform to his good pleasure, humiliating as it was to -them. Accordingly, one and all publicly offered up eleven -prayers, which were considered a sufficient testimony of their -having renounced paganism, and embraced the doctrines of the -prophet.</p> -<p>It was time 8th of January before Demba Sego returned with my -horse; and being quite wearied out with the delay, I went -immediately to inform his father that I should set out for -Kooniakary early the next day. The old man made many -frivolous objections, and at length gave me to understand that I -must not think of departing without first paying him the same -duties he was entitled to receive from all travellers; besides -which he expected, he said, some acknowledgment for his kindness -towards use. Accordingly, on the morning of the 9th, my -friend Demba, with a number of people, came to me, and said that -they were sent by Tiggity Sego for my present, and wished to see -what goods I had appropriated for that purpose. I knew that -resistance was hopeless, and complaint unavailing: and being in -some measure prepared by the intimation I had received the night -before, I quietly offered him seven bars of amber and five of -tobacco. After surveying these articles for some time very -coolly, Demba laid them down, and told me that this was not a -present for a man of Tiggity Sego’s consequence, who had it -in his power to take whatever he pleased from me. He added, -that if I did not consent to make him a larger offering he would -carry all my baggage to his father, and let him choose for -himself. I had no time for reply, for Demba and his -attendants immediately began to open my bundles, and spread the -different articles upon the floor, where they underwent a more -strict examination than they had done at Joag. Everything -that pleased them they took without scruple: and amongst other -things, Demba seized the tin box that had so much attracted his -attention in crossing the river. Upon collecting the -scattered remains of my little fortune after these people had -left me, I found that, as at Joag I had been plundered of half, -so here, without even the shadow of accusation, I was deprived of -half the remainder. The blacksmith himself, though a native -of Kasson, had also been compelled to open his bundles, and take -an oath that the different articles they contained were his own -exclusive property. There was, however, no remedy, and -having been under some obligation to Demba Sego for his attention -towards me in the journey from Joag, I did not reproach him for -his rapacity, but determined to quit Teesee, at all events, the -next morning. In the meanwhile, in order to raise the -drooping spirits of my attendants, I purchased a fat sheep, and -had it dressed for our dinner.</p> -<p>Early in the morning of January 10th, therefore, I left -Teesee, and about mid-day ascended a ridge, from whence we had a -distant view of the hills round Kooniakary. In the evening -we reached a small village, where we slept, and, departing from -thence the next morning, crossed in a few hours a narrow but deep -stream called Krieko, a branch of the Senegal. About two -miles farther to the eastward we passed a large town called -Madina, and at two o’clock came in sight of Jumbo, the -blacksmith’s native town, from whence he had been absent -more than four years. Soon after this, his brother, who had -by some means been apprised of his coming, came out to meet him, -accompanied by a singing man. He brought a horse for the -blacksmith, that he might enter his native town in a dignified -manner; and he desired each of us to put a good charge of powder -into our guns. The singing man now led the way, followed by -the two brothers, and we were presently joined by a number of -people from the town, all of whom demonstrated great joy at -seeing their old acquaintance the blacksmith by the most -extravagant jumping and singing. On entering the town the -singing man began an extempore song in praise of the blacksmith, -extolling his courage in having overcome so many difficulties, -and concluding with a strict injunction to his friends to dress -him plenty of victuals.</p> -<p>When we arrived at the blacksmith’s place of residence -we dismounted, and fired our muskets. The meeting between -him and his relations was very tender; for these rude children of -nature, free from restraint, display their emotions in the -strongest and most expressive manner. Amidst these -transports the blacksmith’s aged mother was led forth, -leaning upon a staff. Every one made way for her, and she -stretched out her hand to bid her son welcome. Being -totally blind, she stroked his hands, arms, and face with great -care, and seemed highly delighted that her latter days were -blessed by his return, and that her ears once more heard the -music of his voice.</p> -<p>During the tumult of these congratulations I had seated myself -apart by the side of one of the huts, being unwilling to -interrupt the flow of filial and parental tenderness; and the -attention of the company was so entirely taken up with the -blacksmith that I believe none of his friends had observed -me. When all the people present had seated themselves the -blacksmith was desired by his father to give them some account of -his adventures; and silence being commanded, he began, and after -repeatedly thanking God for the success that had attended him, -related every material occurrence that had happened to him from -his leasing Kasson to his arrival at the Gambia, his employment -and success in those parts, and the dangers he had escaped in -returning to his native country. In the latter part of his -narration he had frequently occasion to mention me; and after -many strong expressions concerning my kindness to him he pointed -to the place where I sat, and exclaimed, “<i>Affille ibi -siring</i>!”—(“See him sitting -there!”) In a moment all eyes were turned upon me; I -appeared like a being dropped from the clouds; every one was -surprised that they had not observed me before; and a few women -and children expressed great uneasiness at being so near a man of -such an uncommon appearance.</p> -<p>By degrees, however, their apprehensions subsided, and when -the blacksmith assured them that I was perfectly inoffensive, and -would hurt nobody, some of them ventured so far as to examine the -texture of my clothes; but many of them were still very -suspicious; and when by accident I happened to move myself, or -look at the young children, their mothers would scamper off with -them with the greatest precipitations. In a few hours, -however, they all because reconciled to me.</p> -<p>With these worthy people I spent the remainder of that and the -whole of the ensuing day, in feasting and merriment; and the -blacksmith declared he would not quit me during my stay at -Kooniakary—for which place we set out early on the morning -of the 14th of January, and arrived about the middle of the day -at Soolo, a small village three miles to the south of it.</p> -<p>As this place was somewhat out of the direct road, it is -necessary to observe that I went thither to visit a slatee or -Gambia trader, of great note and reputation, named Salim -Daucari. He was well known to Dr. Laidley, who had trusted -him with effects to the value of five slaves, and had given me an -order for the whole of the debt. We luckily found him at -home, and he received me with great kindness and attention.</p> -<p>It is remarkable, however, that the king of Kasson was by some -means immediately apprised of my motions; for I had been at Soolo -but a few hours before Sambo Sego, his second son, came thither -with a party of horse, to inquire what had prevented me from -proceeding to Kooniakary, and waiting immediately upon the king, -who, he said, was impatient to see me. Salim Daucari made -my apology, and promised to accompany me to Kooniakary the same -evening. We accordingly departed from Soolo at sunset, and -in about an hour entered Kooniakary. But as the king had -gone to sleep we deferred the interview till next morning, and -slept at the hut of Sambo Sego.</p> -<h2>CHAPTER VII.<br /> -<span class="GutSmall">INTERVIEW WITH KING DEMBA SEGO -JALLA.</span></h2> -<p><span class="smcap">About</span> eight o’clock in the -morning of January 15th, 1796, we went to an audience of the king -(Demba Sego Jalla), but the crowd of people to see me was so -great that I could scarcely get admittance. A passage being -at length obtained, I made my bow to the monarch, whom we found -sitting upon a mat, in a large hut. He appeared to be a man -of about sixty years of age. His success in war, and the -mildness of his behaviour in time of peace, had much endeared him -to all his subjects. He surveyed me with great attention; -and when Salim Daucari explained to him the object of my journey, -and my reasons for passing through his country, the good old king -appeared not only perfectly satisfied, but promised me every -assistance in his power. He informed me that he had seen -Major Houghton, and presented him with a white horse; but that, -after crossing the kingdom of Kaarta, he had lost his life among -the Moors, in what manner he could not inform me. When this -audience was ended we returned to our lodging, and I made up a -small present for the king out of the few effects that were left -me; for I had not yet received anything from Salim Daucari. -This present, though inconsiderable in itself, was well received -by the king, who sent me in return a large white bullock. -The sight of this animal quite delighted my attendants; not so -much on account of its bulk, as from its being of a white colour, -which is considered as a particular mark of favour. But -although the king himself was well disposed towards me, and -readily granted me permission to pass through his territories, I -soon discovered that very great and unexpected obstacles were -likely to impede my progress. Besides the war which was on -the point of breaking out between Kasson and Kajaaga, I was told -that the next kingdom of Kaarta, through which my route lay, was -involved in the issue, and was furthermore threatened with -hostilities on the part of Bambarra. The king himself -informed me of these circumstances, and advised me to stay in the -neighbourhood of Kooniakary till such time as he could procure -proper information respecting Bambarra, which he expected to do -in the course of four or five days, as he had already, he said, -sent four messengers into Kaarta for that purpose. I -readily submitted to this proposal, and went to Soolo, to stay -there till the return of one of those messengers. This -afforded me a favourable opportunity of receiving what money -Salim Daucari could spare me on Dr. Laidley’s -account. I succeeded in receiving the value of there -slaves, chiefly in gold dust; and being anxious to proceed as -quickly as possible, I begged Daucari to use his interest with -the king to allow me a guide by the way of Fooladoo, as I was -informed that the war had already commenced between the kings of -Bambarra and Kaarta. Daucari accordingly set out for -Kooniakary on the morning of the 20th, and the same evening -returned with the king’s answer, which was to this -purpose—that the king had, many years ago, made an -agreement with Daisy, king of Kaarta, to send all merchants and -travellers through his dominions; but that if I wished to take -the route through Fooladoo I had his permission so to do; though -he could not, consistently with his agreement, lend me a -guide. Having felt the want of regal protection in a former -part of my journey, I was unwilling to hazard a repetition of the -hardships I had then experienced, especially as the money I had -received was probably the last supply that I should obtain. -I therefore determined to wait for the return of the messengers -from Kaarta.</p> -<p>In the interim it began to be whispered abroad that I had -received plenty of gold from Salim Daucari, and, on the morning -of the 23rd, Sambo Sego paid me a visit, with a party of -horsemen. He insisted upon knowing the exact amount of the -money I had obtained, declaring that whatever the sum was, -one-half of it must go to the king; besides which he intimated -that he expected a handsome present for himself, as being the -king’s son, and for his attendants, as being the -king’s relations. I prepared to submit; and if Salim -Daucari had not interposed all my endeavours to mitigate this -oppressive claim would have been of no avail. Salim at last -prevailed upon Sambo to accept sixteen bars of European -merchandise, and some powder and ball, as a complete payment of -every demand that could be made upon me in the kingdom of -Kasson.</p> -<p><i>January</i> 26.—In the forenoon I went to the top of -a high hill to the southward of Soolo, where I had a most -enchanting prospect of the country. The number of towns and -villages, and the extensive cultivation around them, surpassed -everything I had yet seen in Africa. A gross calculation -may be formed of the number of inhabitants in this delightful -plain by considering that the king of Kasson can raise four -thousand fighting men by the sound of his war-drum. In -traversing the rocky eminences of this hill, which are almost -destitute of vegetation, I observed a number of large holes in -the crevasses and fissures of the rocks, where the wolves and -hyænas take refuge during the day.</p> -<p><i>February</i> 1.—The messengers arrived from Kaarta, -and brought intelligence that the war had not yet commenced -between Bambarra and Kaarta, and that I might probably pass -through Kaarta before the Bambarra army invaded that country.</p> -<p><i>February</i> 3.—Early in the morning two guides on -horseback came from Kooniakary to conduct me to the frontiers of -Kaarta. I accordingly took leave of Salim Daucari, and -parted for the last time from my fellow-traveller the blacksmith, -whose kind solicitude for my welfare had been so conspicuous, and -about ten o’clock departed from Soolo. We travelled -this day through a rocky and hilly country, along the banks of -the river Krieko, and at sunset came to the village of Soomo, -where we slept.</p> -<p><i>February</i> 4.—We departed from Soomo, and continued -our route along the banks of the Krieko, which are everywhere -well cultivated, and swarm with inhabitants. At this time -they were increased by the number of people that had flown -thither from Kaarta on account of the Bambarra war. In the -afternoon we reached Kimo, a large village, the residence of Madi -Konko, governor of the hilly country of Kasson, which is called -Sorroma. From hence the guides appointed by the king of -Kasson returned, to join in the expedition against Kajaaga; and I -waited until the 6th before I could prevail on Madi Konko to -appoint me a guide to Kaarta.</p> -<p><i>February</i> 7.—Departing from Kimo, with Madi -Konko’s son as a guide, we continued our course along the -banks of the Krieko until the afternoon, when we arrived at -Kangee, a considerable town. The Krieko is here but a small -rivulet. This beautiful stream takes its rise a little to -the eastward of this town, and descends with a rapid and noisy -current until it reaches the bottom of the high hill called -Tappa, where it becomes more placid, and winds gently through the -lovely plains of Kooniakary; after which, having received an -additional branch from the north, it is lost in the Senegal, -somewhere near the falls of Felow.</p> -<p><i>February</i> 8.—This day we travelled over a rough -stony country, and having passed Seimpo and a number of other -villages, arrived in the afternoon at Lackarago, a small village -which stands upon the ridge of hills that separates the kingdoms -of Kasson and Kaarta. In the course of the day we passed -many hundreds of people flying from Kaarta with their families -and effects.</p> -<p><i>February</i> 9.—Early in the morning we departed from -Lackarago, and a little to the eastward came to the brow of a -hill from whence we had an extensive view of the country. -Towards the south-east were perceived some very distant hills, -which our guide told us were the mountains of Fooladoo. We -travelled with great difficulty down a stony and abrupt -precipice, and continued our way in the bed of a dry river -course, where the trees, meeting overhead, made the place dark -and cool. In a little time we reached the bottom of this -romantic glen, and about ten o’clock emerged from between -two rocky hills, and found ourselves on the level and sandy -plains of Kaarta. At noon we arrived at a <i>korree</i>, or -watering place, where for a few strings of beads I purchased as -much milk and corn-meal as we could eat; indeed, provisions are -here so cheap, and the shepherds live in such affluence, that -they seldom ask any return for what refreshments a traveller -receives from them. From this korree we reached Feesurah at -sunset, where we took up our lodging for the night.</p> -<p><i>February</i> 10.—We continued at Feesurah all this -day, to have a few clothes washed, and learn more exactly the -situation of affairs before we ventured towards the capital.</p> -<p><i>February</i> 11—Our landlord, taking advantage of the -unsettled state of the country, demanded so extravagant a sum for -our lodging that, suspecting he wished for an opportunity to -quarrel with us, I refused to submit to his exorbitant demand; -but my attendants were so much frightened at the reports of -approaching war that they refused to proceed any farther unless I -could settle matters with him, and induce him to accompany us to -Kemoo, for our protection on the road. This I accomplished -with some difficulty; and by a present of a blanket which I had -brought with me to sleep in, and for which our landlord had -conceived a very great liking, matters were at length amicably -adjusted, and he mounted his horse and led the way. He was -one of those negroes who, together with the ceremonial part of -the Mohammedan religion, retain all their ancient superstitions, -and even drink strong liquors. They are called Johars, or -Jowars, and in this kingdom form a very numerous and powerful -tribe. We had no sooner got into a dark need lonely part of -the first wood than he made a sign for us to stop, and, taking -hold of a hollow piece of bamboo that hung as an amulet round his -neck, whistled very loud there times. I confess I was -somewhat startled, thinking it was a signal for some of his -companions to come and attack us; but he assured me that it was -done merely with a view to ascertain what success we were likely -to meet with on our present journey. He then dismounted, -laid his spear across the road, and having said a number of short -prayers, concluded with three loud whistles; after which he -listened for some time, as if in expectation of an answer, and -receiving none, told us we might proceed without fear, for there -was no danger. About noon we passed a number of large -villages quite deserted, the inhabitants having fled into Kasson -to avoid the horrors of war. We reached Karankalla at -sunset. This formerly was a large town, but having been -plundered by the Bambarrans about four years ago, nearly one-half -of it is still in ruins.</p> -<p><i>February</i> 12.—At daylight we departed from -Karankalla, and as it was but a short day’s journey to -Kemmoo, we travelled slower than usual, and amused ourselves by -collecting such eatable fruits as grew near the road-side. -About noon we saw at a distance the capital of Kaarta, situated -in the middle of an open plain—the country for two miles -round being cleared of wood, by the great consumption of that -article for building and fuel—and we entered the town about -two o’clock in the afternoon.</p> -<p>We proceeded without stopping to the court before the -king’s residence; but I was so completely surrounded by the -gazing multitude that I did not attempt to dismount, but sent in -the landlord and Madi Konki’s son, to acquaint the king of -my arrival. In a little time they returned, accompanied by -a messenger from the king, signifying that he would see me in the -evening; and in the meantime the messenger had orders to procure -me a lodging and see that the crowd did not molest me. He -conducted me into a court, at the door of which he stationed a -man with a stick in his hand to keep off the mob, and then showed -me a large hut in which I was to lodge. I had scarcely -seated myself in this spacious apartment when the mob entered; it -was found impossible to keep them out, and I was surrounded by as -many as the hut could contain. When the first party, -however, had seen me, and asked a few questions, they retired to -make room for another company; and in this manner the hut was -filled and emptied thirteen different times.</p> -<p>A little before sunset the king sent to inform me that he was -at leisure, and wished to see me. I followed the messenger -through a number of courts surrounded with high walls, where I -observed plenty of dry grass, bundled up like hay, to fodder the -horses, in case the town should be invested. On entering -the court in which the king was sitting I was astonished at the -number of his attendants, and at the good order that seemed to -prevail among them; they were all seated—the fighting men -on the king’s right hand and the women and children on the -left, leaving a space between them for my passage. The -king, whose name was Daisy Koorabarri, was not to be -distinguished from his subjects by any superiority in point of -dress; a bank of earth, about two feet high, upon which was -spread a leopard’s skin, constituted the only mark of royal -dignity. When I had seated myself upon the ground before -him, and related the various circumstances that had induced me to -pass through his country, and my reasons for soliciting his -protections, he appeared perfectly satisfied; but said it was not -in his power at present to afford me much assistance, for that -all sort of communication between Kaarta and Bambarra had been -interrupted for some time past; and as Mansong, the king of -Bambarra, with his army, had entered Fooladoo in his way to -Kaarta, there was but little hope of my reaching Bambarra by any -of the usual routes, inasmuch as, coming from an enemy’s -country, I should certainly be plundered, or taken for a -spy. If his country had been at peace, he said, I might -have remained with him until a more favourable opportunity -offered; but, as matters stood at present, he did not wish me to -continue in Kaarta, for fear some accident should befall me, in -which case my countrymen might say that he had murdered a white -man. He would therefore advise me to return into Kasson, -and remain there until the war should terminate, which would -probably happen in the course of three or four months, after -which, if he was alive, he said, he would be glad to see me, and -if he was dead his sons would take care of me.</p> -<p>This advice was certainly well meant on the part of the king, -and perhaps I was to blame in not following it; but I reflected -that the hot months were approaching, and I dreaded the thoughts -of spending the rainy season in the interior of Africa. -These considerations, and the aversion I felt at the idea of -returning without having made a greater progress in discovery, -made sue determine to go forward; and though the king could not -give me a guide to Bambarra, I begged that he would allow a man -to accompany me as near the frontiers of his kingdom as was -consistent with safety. Finding that I was determined to -proceed, the king told me that one route still remained, but -that, he said, was by no means free from danger—which was -to go from Kaarta into the Moorish kingdom of Ludamar, from -whence I might pass by a circuitous route into Bambarra. If -I wished to follow this route he would appoint people to conduct -me to Jarra, the frontier town of Ludamar. He then inquired -very particularly how I had been treated since I had left the -Gambia, and asked, in a jocular way, how many slaves I expected -to carry home with me on my return. He was about to proceed -when a man mounted on a fine Moorish horse, which was covered -with sweat and foam, entered the court, and signifying that he -had something of importance to communicate, the king immediately -took up his sandals, which is the signal to strangers to -retire. I accordingly took leave, but desired my boy to -stay about the place, in order to learn something of the -intelligence that this messenger had brought. In about an -hour the boy returned, and informed me that the Bambarra army had -left Fooladoo, and was on its march towards Kaarta; that the man -I had seen, who had brought this intelligence, was one of the -scouts, or watchmen, employed by the king, each of whom has his -particular station (commonly on some rising ground) from whence -he has the best view of the country, and watches the motions of -the enemy.</p> -<p><i>February</i> 13.—At daylight I sent my horse-pistols -and holsters as a present to the king, and being very desirous to -get away from a place which was likely soon to become the seat of -war, I begged the messenger to inform the king that I wished to -depart from Kemmoo as soon as he should find it convenient to -appoint me a guide. In about an hour the king sent his -messenger to thank me for the present, and eight horsemen to -conduct me to Jarra. They told me that the king wished me -to proceed to Jarra with all possible expedition, that they might -return before anything decisive should happen between the armies -of Bambarra need Kaarta. We accordingly departed forthwith -from Kemmoo, accompanied by three of Daisy’s sons, and -about two hundred horsemen, who kindly undertook to see me a -little way on my journey.</p> -<h2>CHAPTER VIII.<br /> -<span class="GutSmall">ADVENTURES BETWEEN KEMMOO AND -JARRA.</span></h2> -<p><span class="smcap">On</span> the evening of the day of our -departure from Kemmoo (the king’s eldest son and great part -of the horsemen having returned) we reached a village called -Marina, where we slept. During the night some thieves broke -into the hut where I had deposited my baggage, and having cut -open one of my bundles, stole a quantity of beads, part of my -clothes, and some amber and gold, which happened to be in one of -the pockets. I complained to my protectors, but without -effect. The next day (February 14th) was far advanced -before we departed from Marina, and we travelled slowly, on -account of the excessive heat, until four o’clock in the -afternoon, when two negroes were observed sitting among some -thorny bushes, at a little distance from the road. The -king’s people, taking it for granted that they were runaway -slaves, cocked their muskets, and rode at full speed in different -directions through the bushes, in order to surround them, and -prevent their escaping. The negroes, however, waited with -great composure until we came within bowshot of them, when each -of them took from his quiver a handful of arrows, and putting two -between his teeth and one in his bow, waved to us with his hand -to keep at a distance; upon which one of the king’s people -called out to the strangers to give some account of -themselves. They said that “they were natives of -Toorda, a neighbouring village, and had come to that place to -gather <i>tomberongs</i>.” These are small -farinaceous berries, of a yellow colour and delicious taste, -which I knew to be the fruit of the <i>rhamnus lotus</i> of -Linnæus.</p> -<p>The lotus is very common in all the kingdoms which I visited; -but is found in the greatest plenty on the sandy soil of Kaarta, -Ludamar, and the northern parts of Bambarra, where it is one of -the most common shrubs of the country. I had observed the -same species at Gambia.</p> -<p>As this shrub is found in Tunis, and also in the negro -kingdoms, and as it furnishes the natives of the latter with a -food resembling bread, and also with a sweet liquor which is much -relished by them, there can be little doubt of its being the -lotus mentioned by Pliny as the food of the Libyan -Lotophagi. An army may very well have been fed with the -bread I have tasted, made of the meal of the fruit, as is said by -Pliny to have been done in Libya; and as the taste of the bread -is sweet and agreeable, it is not likely that the soldiers would -complain of it.</p> -<p>We arrived in the evening at the village of Toorda; when all -the rest of the king’s people turned back except two, who -remained with me as guides to Jarra.</p> -<p><i>February</i> 15.—I departed from Toorda, and about -two o’clock came to a considerable town, called -Funingkedy. As we approached the town the inhabitants were -much alarmed; for, as one of my guides wore a turban, they -mistook us for some Moorish banditti. This misapprehension -was soon cleared up, and we were well received by a Gambia -slatee, who resides at this town, and at whose house we -lodged.</p> -<p><i>February</i> 16.—We were informed that a number of -people would go from this town to Jarra on the day following; and -as the road was much infested by the Moors we resolved to stay -and accompany the travellers.</p> -<p>About two o’clock, as I was lying asleep upon a -bullock’s hide behind the door of the hut, I was awakened -by the screams of women, and a general clamour and confusion -among the inhabitants. At first I suspected that the -Bambarrans had actually entered the town; but observing my boy -upon the top of one of the huts, I called to him to know what was -the matter. He informed me that the Moors were come a -second time to steal the cattle, and that they were now close to -the town. I mounted the roof of the hut, and observed a -large herd of bullocks coming towards the town, followed by five -Moors on horseback, who drove the cattle forward with their -muskets. When they had reached the wells which are close to -the town, the Moors selected from the herd sixteen of the finest -beasts, and drove them off at full cell gallop. During this -transaction the townspeople, to the number of five hundred, stood -collected close to the walls of the town; and when the Moors -drove the cattle away, though they passed within pistol-shot of -them, the inhabitants scarcely made a show of resistance. I -only saw four muskets fired, which, being loaded with gunpowder -of the negroes’ own manufacture, did no execution. -Shortly after this I observed a number of people supporting a -young man on horseback, and conducting him slowly towards the -town. This was one of the herdsmen, who, attempting to -throw his spear, had been wounded by a shot from one of the -Moors. His mother walked on before, quite frantic with -grief, clapping her hands, and enumerating the good qualities of -her son. “<i>Ee maffo fenio</i>!” -(“He never told a lie!”) said the disconsolate mother -as her wounded son was carried in at the gate—“<i>Ee -maffo fonio abada</i>!” (“He never told a lie; -no, never!”) When they had conveyed him to his hut, -and laid him upon a mat, all the spectators joined in lamenting -his fate, by screaming and howling in the most piteous -manner.</p> -<p>After their grief had subsided a little, I was desired to -examine the wound. I found that the ball had passed quite -through his leg, having fractured both bones a little below the -knee: the poor boy was faint from the loss of blood, and his -situation withal so very precarious, that I could not console his -relations with any great hopes of his recovery. However, to -give him a possible chance, I observed to them that it was -necessary to cut off his leg above the knee. This proposal -made every one start with horror; they had never heard of such a -method of cure, and would by no means give their consent to it; -indeed, they evidently considered me a sort of cannibal for -proposing so cruel and unheard-of an operation, which, in their -opinion, would be attended with more pain and danger than the -wound itself. The patient was therefore committed to the -care of some old bashreens, who endeavoured to secure him a -passage into paradise by whispering in his ear some Arabic -sentences, and desiring him to repeat them. After many -unsuccessful attempts, the poor heathen at last pronounced, -“<i>La illah el Allah</i>, <i>Mahamet rasowl -allahi</i>” (“There is but one God, and -Mohammed is his Prophet”); and the disciples of the Prophet -assured his mother that her son had given sufficient evidence of -his faith, and would be happy in a future state. He died -the same evening.</p> -<p><i>February</i> 17.—My guides informed me that in order -to avoid the Moorish banditti it was necessary to travel in the -night; we accordingly departed from Funingkedy in the afternoon, -accompanied by about thirty people, carrying their effects with -them into Ludamar, for fear of the war. We travelled with -great silence and expedition until midnight, when we stopped in a -sort of enclosure, near a small village; but the thermometer -being so low as 68 degrees, none of the negroes could sleep on -account of the cold.</p> -<p>At daybreak on the 18th we resumed our journey, and at eight -o’clock passed Simbing, the frontier village of Ludamar, -situated on a narrow pass between two rocky hills, and surrounded -with a high wall. From this village Major Houghton (being -deserted by his negro servants, who refused to follow him into -the Moorish country) wrote his last letter with a pencil to Dr. -Laidley. This brave but unfortunate man, heaving surmounted -many difficulties, had taken a northerly direction, had -endeavoured to pass through the kingdom of Ludamar, where I -afterwards learned the following particulars concerning his -melancholy fate:—On his arrival at Jarra he got acquainted -with certain Moorish merchants who were travelling to Tisheet (a -place near the salt pits in the Great Desert, ten days’ -journey to the northward) to purchase salt; and the Major, at the -expense of a musket and some tobacco, engaged them to convey him -thither. It is impossible to form any other opinion on this -determination than that the Moors intentionally deceived him, -either with regard to the route that he wished to pursue, or the -state of the intermediate country between Jarra and -Timbuctoo. Their intention probably was to rob and leave -him in the desert. At the end of two days he suspected -their treachery, and insisted on returning to Jarra. -Finding him persist in this determination, the Moors robbed him -of everything he possessed, and went off with their camels; the -poor Major being thus deserted, returned on foot to a -watering-place in possession of the Moors, called Tarra. He -had been some days without food, and the unfeeling Moors refusing -to give him any, he sank at last under his distresses. -Whether he actually perished of hunger, or was murdered outright -by the savage Mohammedans, is not certainly known; his body was -dragged into the woods, and I was shown at a distance the spot -where his remains were left to perish.</p> -<p>About four miles to the north of Simbing we came to a small -stream of water, where we observed a number of wild horses they -were all of one colour, and galloped away from us at an easy -rate, frequently stopping and looking back. The negroes -hunt them for food, and their flesh is much esteemed.</p> -<p>About noon we arrived at Jarra, a large town situated at the -bottom of some rocky hills.</p> -<h2>CHAPTER IX.<br /> -<span class="GutSmall">THE TOWN OF JARRA—DETAINED BY THE -MOORS.</span></h2> -<p><span class="smcap">The</span> town of Jarra is of -considerable extent; the houses are built of clay and stone -intermixed—the clay answering the purpose of mortar. -It is situated in the Moorish kingdom of Ludamar; but the major -part of the inhabitants are negroes, from the borders of the -southern states, who prefer a precarious protection under the -Moors, which they purchase by a tribute, rather than continue -exposed to their predatory hostilities. The tribute they -pay is considerable; and they manifest towards their Moorish -superiors the most unlimited obedience and submission, and are -treated by them with the utmost indignity and contempt. The -Moors of this and the other states adjoining the country of the -negroes resemble in their persons the mulattoes of the West -Indies to so great a degree as not easily to be distinguished -from them; and, in truth, the present generation seem to be a -mixed race between the Moors (properly so called) of the north -and the negroes of the south, possessing many of the worst -qualities of both nations.</p> -<p>Of the origin of these Moorish tribes, as distinguished from -the inhabitants of Barbary, from whom they are divided by the -Great Desert, nothing further seems to be known than what is -related by John Leo, the African, whose account may be abridged -as follows:—</p> -<p>Before the Arabian conquest, about the middle of the seventh -century, all the inhabitants of Africa, whether they were -descended from Numidians, Phœnicians, Carthaginians, -Romans, Vandals, or Goths, were comprehended under the general -name of <i>Mauri</i>, or Moors. All these nations were -converted to the religion of Mohammed during the Arabian empire -under the Kaliphs. About this time many of the Numidian -tribes, who led a wandering life in the desert, and supported -themselves upon the produce of their cattle, retired southward -across the Great Desert to avoid the fury of the Arabians; and by -one of those tribes, says Leo (that of Zanhaga), were discovered, -and conquered, the negro nations on the Niger. By the Niger -is here undoubtedly meant the river of Senegal, which in the -Mandingo language is <i>Bafing</i>, or the Black River.</p> -<p>To what extent these people are now spread over the African -continent it is difficult to ascertain. There is reason to -believe that their dominion stretches from west to east, in a -narrow line or belt, from the mouth of the Senegal (on the -northern side of that river) to the confines of Abyssinia. -They are a subtle and treacherous race of people, and take every -opportunity of cheating and plundering the credulous and -unsuspecting negroes. But their manners and general habits -of life will be best explained as incidents occur in the course -of my narrative.</p> -<p>The difficulties we had already encountered, the unsettled -state of the country, and, above all, the savage and overbearing -deportment of the Moors, had so completely frightened my -attendants that they declared they would rather relinquish every -claim to reward than proceed one step farther to the -eastward. Indeed, the danger they incurred of being seized -by the Moors, and sold into slavery, became every day more -apparent; and I could not condemn their apprehensions. In -this situation, deserted by my attendants, and reflecting that my -retreat was cut off by the war behind me, and that a Moorish -country of ten days’ journey lay before me, I applied to -Daman to obtain permission from Ali, the chief or sovereign of -Ludamar, that I might pass through his country unmolested into -Bambarra; and I hired one of Daman’s slaves to accompany me -thither, as soon as such permission should be obtained. A -messenger was despatched to Ali, who at this time was encamped -near Benowm; and as a present was necessary in order to insure -success, I sent him five garments of cotton cloth, which I -purchased of Daman for one of my fowling-pieces. Fourteen -days elapsed in settling this affair; but on the evening of the -26th of February, one of Ali’s slaves arrived with -directions, as he pretended, to conduct me in safety as far as -Goomba, and told me I was to pay him one garment of blue cotton -cloth for his attendance. My faithful boy, observing that I -was about to proceed without him, resolved to accompany me; and -told me, that though he wished me to turn back, he never -entertained any serious thoughts of deserting me, but had been -advised to it by Johnson, with a view to induce me to turn -immediately for Gambia.</p> -<p><i>February</i> 27.—I delivered most of my papers to -Johnson, to convey them to Gambia as soon as possible, reserving -a duplicate for myself in case of accidents. I likewise -left in Daman’s possession a bundle of clothes, and other -things that were not absolutely necessary, for I wished to -diminish my baggage as much as possible, that the Moors might -have fewer inducements to plunder us.</p> -<p>Things being thus adjusted, we departed from Jarra in the -forenoon, and slept at Troomgoomba, a small walled village, -inhabited by a mixture of negroes and Moors. On the day -following (February 28th) we reached Quira; and on the 29th, -after a toilsome journey over a sandy country, we came to Compe, -a watering-place belonging to the Moors; from whence, on the -morning following, we proceeded to Deena, a large town, and, like -Jarra, built of stone and clay. The Moors are here in -greater proportion to the negroes than at Jarra. They -assembled round the hut of the negro where I lodged, and treated -me with the greatest insolence; they hissed, shouted, and abused -me; they even spat in my face, with a view to irritate me, and -afford them a pretext for seizing my baggage. But finding -such insults had not the desired effect, they had recourse to the -final and decisive argument, that I was a Christian, and of -course that my property was lawful plunder to the followers of -Mohammed. They accordingly opened my bundles, and robbed me -of everything they fancied. My attendants, finding that -everybody could rob me with impunity, insisted on returning to -Jarra.</p> -<p>The day following (March 2nd), I endeavoured, by all the means -in my power, to prevail upon my people to go on, but they still -continued obstinate; and having reason to fear some further -insult from the fanatic Moors, I resolved to proceed alone. -Accordingly, the next morning, about two o’clock, I -departed from Deena. It was moonlight, but the roaring of -the wild beasts made it necessary to proceed with caution.</p> -<p>When I had reached a piece of rising ground about half a mile -from the town, I heard somebody halloo, and, looking back, saw my -faithful boy running after me. He informed me that -Ali’s men had gone back to Benowm, and that Daman’s -negro was about to depart for Jarra; but he said he had no doubt, -if I would stop a little, that he could persuade the latter to -accompany us. I waited accordingly, and in about an hour -the boy returned with the negro; and we continued travelling over -a sandy country, covered chiefly with the <i>Asclepias -gigantea</i>, until mid-day, when we came to a number of deserted -huts; and seeing some appearances of water at a little distance, -I sent the boy to fill a soofroo; but as he was examining the -place for water, the roaring of a lion, that was probably on the -same pursuit, induced the frightened boy to return in haste, and -we submitted patiently to the disappointment. In the -afternoon we reached a town inhabited chiefly by Foulahs, called -Samaming-koos.</p> -<p>Next morning (March 4th), we set out for Sampaka, which place -we reached about two o’clock. On the road we observed -immense quantities of locusts; the trees were quite black with -them.</p> -<p>Sampaka is a large town, and when the Moors and Bambarrans -were at war was thrice attacked by the former; but they were -driven off with great loss, though the king of Bambarra was -afterwards obliged to give up this, and all the other towns as -far as Goomba, in order to obtain a peace. Here I lodged at -the house of a negro who practised the art of making -gunpowder. He showed me a bag of nitre, very white, but the -crystals were much smaller than common. They procure it in -considerable quantities from the ponds, which are filled in the -rainy season, and to which the cattle resort for coolness during -the heat of the day. When the water is evaporated, a white -efflorescence is observed on the mud, which the natives collect -and purify in such a manner as to answer their purpose. The -Moors supply them with sulphur from the Mediterranean; and the -process is completed by pounding the different articles together -in a wooden mortar. The grains are very unequal, and the -sound of its explosion is by no means so sharp as that produced -by European gunpowder.</p> -<p><i>March</i> 5.—We departed from Sampaka at -daylight. About noon we stopped a little at a village -called Dangali, and in the evening arrived at Dalli. We saw -upon the road two large herds of camels feeding. When the -Moors turn their camels to feed they tie up one of their -fore-legs to prevent their straying. This happened to be a -feast-day at Dalli, and the people were dancing before the -dooty’s house. But when they were informed that a -white man was come into the town they left off dancing and came -to the place where I lodged, walking in regular order, two and -two, with the music before them. They play upon a sort of -flute; but instead of blowing into a hole in the side they blow -obliquely over the end, which is half shut by a thin piece of -wood; they govern the holes on the side with their fingers, and -play some simple and very plaintive airs. They continued to -dance and sing until midnight, during which time I was surrounded -by so great a crowd as made it necessary for me to satisfy their -curiosity by sitting still.</p> -<p><i>March</i> 6.—We stopped here this morning because -some of the townspeople, who were going for Goomba on the day -following, wished to accompany us; but in order to avoid the -crowd of people which usually assembled in the evening we went to -a negro village to the east of Dalli, called Samee, where we were -kindly received by the hospitable dooty, who on this occasion -killed two fine sheep, and invited his friends to come and feast -with him.</p> -<p><i>March</i> 7.—Our landlord was so proud of the honour -of entertaining a white man that he insisted on my staying with -him and his friends until the cool of the evening, when he said -he would conduct me to the next village. As I was now -within two days’ journey of Goomba, I had no apprehensions -from the Moors, and readily accepted the invitation. I -spent the forenoon very pleasantly with these poor negroes; their -company was the more acceptable, as the gentleness of their -manners presented a striking contrast to the rudeness and -barbarity of the Moors. They enlivened their conversation -by drinking a fermented liquor made from corn—the same sort -of beer that I have described in a former chapter; and better I -never tasted in Great Britain.</p> -<p>In the midst of this harmless festivity, I flattered myself -that all danger from the Moors was over. Fancy had already -placed me on the banks of the Niger, and presented to my -imagination a thousand delightful scenes in my future progress, -when a party of Moors unexpectedly entered the hut, and dispelled -the golden dream. They came, they said, by Ali’s -orders, to convey me to his camp at Benowm. If I went -peaceably, they told me, I had nothing to fear; but if I refused -they had orders to bring me by force. I was struck dumb by -surprise and terror, which the Moors observing endeavoured to -calm my apprehensions by repeating the assurance that I had -nothing to fear. Their visit, they added, was occasioned by -the curiosity of Ali’s wife Fatima, who had heard so much -about Christians that she was very anxious to see one: as soon as -her curiosity should be satisfied, they had no doubt, they said, -that Ali would give me a handsome present, and send a person to -conduct me to Bambarra. Finding entreaty and resistance -equally fruitless, I prepared to follow the messengers, and took -leave of my landlord and his company with great reluctance. -Accompanied by my faithful boy (for Daman’s slave made his -escape on seeing the Moors), we reached Dalli in the evening, -where we were strictly watched by the Moors during the night.</p> -<p><i>March</i> 8.—We were conducted by a circuitous path -through the woods to Dangali, where we slept.</p> -<p><i>March</i> 9.—We continued our journey, and in the -afternoon arrived at Sampaka.</p> -<p>Next morning (March 10th) we set out for Samaming-koos. -On the road we overtook a woman and two boys with an ass; she -informed us that she was going for Bambarra, but had been stopped -on the road by a party of Moors, who had taken most of her -clothes and some gold from her; and that she would be under the -necessity of returning to Deena till the fast moon was -over. The same even the new moon was seen which ushered in -the month Ramadan. Large fires were made in different parts -of the town, and a greater quantity of victuals than usual -dressed upon the occasion.</p> -<p><i>March</i> 11.—By daylight the Moors were in -readiness; but as I had suffered much from thirst on the road I -made my boy fill a soofroo of water for my own use, for the Moors -assured me that they should not taste either meat or drink until -sunset. However, I found that the excessive heat of the -sun, and the dust we raised in travelling, overcame their -scruples, and made my soofroo a very useful part of our -baggage. On our arrival at Deena, I went to pay my respects -to one of Ali’s sons. I found him sitting in a low -hut, with five or six more of his companions, washing their hands -and feet, and frequently taking water into their mouths, gargling -and spitting it out again. I was no sooner seated than he -handed me a double-barrelled gun, and told me to dye the stock of -a blue colour, and repair one of the locks. I found great -difficulty in persuading him that I knew nothing about the -matter. “However,” says he, “if you -cannot repair the gun, you shall give me some knives and scissors -immediately;” and when my boy, who acted as interpreter, -assured him that I had no such articles, he hastily snatched up a -musket that stood by him, cocked it, and putting the muzzle close -to the boy’s ear, would certainly have shot him dead upon -the spot had not the Moors wrested the musket from him, and made -signs for us to retreat.</p> -<p><i>March</i> 12.—We departed from Deena towards Benowm, -and about nine o’clock came to a korree, whence the Moors -were preparing to depart to the southward, on account of the -scarcity of water; here we filled our soofroo, and continued our -journey over a hot sandy country, covered with small stunted -shrubs, until about one o’clock, when the heat of the sun -obliged us to stop. But our water being expended, we could -not prudently remain longer than a few minutes to collect a -little gum, which is an excellent succedaneum for water, as it -keeps the mouth moist, and allays for a time the pain in the -throat.</p> -<p>About five o’clock we came in sight of Benowm, the -residence of Ali. It presented to the eye a great number of -dirty-looking tents, scattered without order over a large space -of ground; and among the tents appeared large herds of camels, -cattle, and goats. We reached the skirts of this camp a -little before sunset, and, with much entreaty, procured a little -water. My arrival was no sooner observed than the people -who drew water at the wells threw down their buckets; those in -the tents mounted their horses, and men, women, and children, -came running or galloping towards me. I soon found myself -surrounded by such a crowd that I could scarcely move; one pulled -my clothes, another took off my hat, a third stopped me to -examine my waistcoat-buttons, and a fourth called out, -“<i>La illah el Allah</i>, <i>Mahamet rasowl -allahi</i>”—(“There is but one God, and -Mohammed is his Prophet”)—and signified, in a -threatening manner, that I must repeat those words. We -reached at length the king’s tent, where we found a great -number of people, men and women, assembled. Ali was sitting -upon a black leather cushion, clipping a few hairs from his upper -lip, a female attendant holding up a looking-glass before -him. He appeared to be an old man of the Arab cast, with a -long white beard; and he had a sullen and indignant aspect. -He surveyed me with attention, and inquired of the Moors if I -could speak Arabic. Being answered in the negative, he -appeared much surprised, and continued silent. The -surrounding attendants, and especially the ladies, were -abundantly more inquisitive: they asked a thousand questions, -inspected every part of my apparel, searched my pockets, and -obliged me to unbutton my waistcoat, and display the whiteness of -my skin; they even counted my toes and fingers, as if they -doubted whether I was in truth a human being. In a little -time the priest announced evening prayers; but before the people -departed, the Moor who had acted as interpreter informed me that -Ali was about to present me with something to eat; and looking -round, I observed some boys bringing a wild hog, which they tied -to one of the tent strings, and Ali made signs to me to kill and -dress it for supper. Though I was very hungry, I did not -think it prudent to eat any part of an animal so much detested by -the Moors, and therefore told him that I never ate such -food. They then untied the hog, in hopes that it would run -immediately at me—for they believe that a great enmity -subsists between hogs and Christians—but in this they were -disappointed, for the animal no sooner regained his liberty than -he began to attack indiscriminately every person that came in his -way, and at last took shelter under the couch upon which the king -was sitting. The assembly being thus dissolved, I was -conducted to the tent of Ali’s chief slave, but was not -permitted to enter, nor allowed to touch anything belonging to -it. I requested something to eat, and a little boiled corn, -with salt and water, was at length sent me in a wooden bowl; and -a mat was spread upon the sand before the tent, on which I passed -the night, surrounded by the curious multitude.</p> -<p>At sunrise, Ali, with a few attendants, came on horseback to -visit me, and signified that he had provided a hut for me, where -I would be sheltered from the sun. I was accordingly -conducted thither, and found the hut comparatively cool and -pleasant.</p> -<p>I was no sooner seated in this my new habitation than the -Moors assembled in crowds to behold me; but I found it rather a -troublesome levée, for I was obliged to take off one of my -stockings, and show them my foot, and even to take off my jacket -and waistcoat, to show them how my clothes were put on and off; -they were much delighted with the curious contrivance of -buttons. All this was to be repeated to every succeeding -visitor; for such as had already seen these wonders insisted on -their friends seeing the same; and in this manner I was employed, -dressing and undressing, buttoning and unbuttoning, from noon -till night. About eight o’clock, Ali sent me for -supper some kouskous and salt and water, which was very -acceptable, being the only victuals I had tasted since -morning.</p> -<p>I observed that in the night the Moors kept regular watch, and -frequently looked into the hut to see if I was asleep; and if it -was quite dark, they would light a wisp of grass. About two -o’clock in the morning a Moor entered the hut, probably -with a view to steal something, or perhaps to murder me; and -groping about he laid his hand upon my shoulder. As night -visitors were at best but suspicious characters, I sprang up the -moment he laid his hand upon me; and the Moor, in his haste to -get off, stumbled over my boy, and fell with his face upon the -wild hog, which returned the attack by biting the Moor’s -arm. The screams of this man alarmed the people in the -king’s tent, who immediately conjectured that I had made my -escape, and a number of them mounted their horses, and prepared -to pursue me. I observed upon this occasion that Ali did -not sleep in his own tent, but came galloping upon a white horse -from a small tent at a considerable distance; indeed, the -tyrannical and cruel behaviour of this man made him so jealous of -every person around him that even his own slaves and domestics -knew not where he slept. When the Moors had explained to -him the cause of this outcry they all went away, and I was -permitted to sleep quietly until morning.</p> -<p><i>March</i> 13.—With the returning day commenced the -same round of insult and irritation—the boys assembled to -beat the hog, and the men and women to plague the -Christian. It is impossible for me to describe the -behaviour of a people who study mischief as a science, and exult -in the miseries and misfortunes of their fellow-creatures.</p> -<h2>CHAPTER X.<br /> -<span class="GutSmall">A MOORISH WEDDING.</span></h2> -<p><span class="smcap">The</span> Moors, though very indolent -themselves, are rigid task-masters, and keep every person under -them in full employment. My boy Demba was sent to the woods -to collect withered grass for Ali’s horses; and after a -variety of projects concerning myself, they at last found out an -employment for me: this was no other than the respectable office -of <i>barber</i>. I was to make my first exhibition in this -capacity in the royal presence, and to be honoured with the task -of shaving the head of the young prince of Ludamar. I -accordingly seated myself upon the sand, and the boy, with some -hesitation, sat down beside me. A small razor, about three -inclines long, was put into my hand, and I was ordered to -proceed; but whether from my own want of skill, or the improper -shape of the instrument, I unfortunately made a slight incision -in the boy’s head at the very commencement of the -operation; and the king, observing the awkward manner in which I -held the razor, concluded that his son’s head was in very -improper hands, and ordered me to resign the razor and walk out -of the tent. This I considered as a very fortunate -circumstance; for I had laid it down as a rule to make myself as -useless and insignificant as possible, as the only means of -recovering my liberty.</p> -<p><i>March</i> 18.—Four Moors arrived from Jarra with -Johnson my interpreter, having seized him before he had received -any intimation of my confinement, and bringing with them a bundle -of clothes that I had left at Daman Jumma’s house, for my -use in case I should return by the way of Jarra. Johnson -was led into Ali’s tent and examined; the bundle was -opened, and I was sent for to explain the use of the different -articles. I was happy, however, to find that Johnson had -committed my papers to the charge of one of Daman’s -wives. When I had satisfied Ali’s curiosity -respecting the different articles of apparel the bundle was again -tied up, and put into a large cow-skin bag that stood in a corner -of the tent. The same evening Ali sent three of his people -to inform me that there were many thieves in the neighbourhood, -and that to prevent the rest of my things from being stolen it -was necessary to convey them all into his tent. My clothes, -instruments, and everything that belonged to me, were accordingly -carried away; and though the heat and dust made clean linen very -necessary and refreshing, I could not procure a single shirt out -of the small stock I had brought along with me. Ali was, -however, disappointed by not finding among my effects the -quantity of gold and amber that he expected; but to make sure of -everything he sent the same people, on the morning following, to -examine whether I had anything concealed about my person. -They, with their usual rudeness, searched every part of my -apparel, and stripped me of all my gold, amber, my watch, and one -of my pocket-compasses; I had, fortunately, in the night, buried -the other compass in the sand—and this, with the clothes I -had on, was all that the tyranny of Ali had now left me.</p> -<p>The gold and amber were highly gratifying to Moorish avarice, -but the pocket-compass soon became an object of superstitious -curiosity. Ali was very desirous to be informed why that -small piece of iron, the needle, always pointed to the Great -Desert; and I found myself somewhat puzzled to answer the -question. To have pleaded my ignorance would have created a -suspicion that I wished to conceal the real truth from him; I -therefore told him that my mother resided far beyond the sands of -Sahara, and that whilst she was alive the piece of iron would -always point that way, and serve as a guide to conduct me to her, -and that if she was dead it would point to her grave. Ali -now looked at the compass with redoubled amazement; turned it -round and round repeatedly; but observing that it always pointed -the same way, he took it up with great caution and returned it to -me, manifesting that he thought there was something of magic in -it, and that he was afraid of keeping so dangerous an instrument -in his possession.</p> -<p><i>March</i> 20.—This morning a council of chief men was -held in Ali’s tent respecting me. Their decisions, -though they were all unfavourable to me, were differently related -by different persons. Some said that they intended to put -me to death; others that I was only to lose my right hand; but -the most probable account was that which I received from -Ali’s own son, a boy about nine years of age, who came to -me in the evening, and, with much concern, informed me that his -uncle had persuaded his father to put out my eyes, which they -said resembled those of a cat, and that all the bushreens had -approved of this measure. His father, however, he said, -would not put the sentence into execution until Fatima, the -queen, who was at present in the north, had seen me.</p> -<p><i>March</i> 21.—Anxious to know my destiny, I went to -the king early in the morning; and as a number of bushreens were -assembled, I thought this a favourable opportunity of discovering -their intentions. I therefore began by begging his -permission to return to Jarra, which was flatly refused. -His wife, he said, had not yet seen me, and I must stay until she -came to Benowm, after which I should be at liberty to depart; and -that my horse, which had been taken away from me the day after I -arrived, should be again restored to me. Unsatisfactory as -this answer was, I was forced to appear pleased; and as there was -little hope of making my escape at this season of the year, on -account of the excessive heat, and the total want of water in the -woods, I resolved to wait patiently until the rains had set in, -or until some more favourable opportunity should present -itself. But “hope deferred maketh the heart -sick.” This tedious procrastination from day to day, -and the thoughts of travelling through the negro kingdoms in the -rainy season, which was now fast approaching, made me very -melancholy; and having passed a restless night, I found myself -attacked in the morning by a smart fever. I had wrapped -myself close up in my cloak with a view to induce perspiration, -and was asleep, when a party of Moors entered the hut, and with -their usual rudeness pulled the cloak from me. I made signs -to them that I was sick, and wished much to sleep, but I -solicited in vain; my distress was matter of sport to them, and -they endeavoured to heighten it by every means in their -power. In this perplexity I left my hut, and walked to some -shady trees at a little distance from the camp, where I lay -down. But even here persecution followed me, and solitude -was thought too great an indulgence for a distressed -Christian. Ali’s son, with a number of horsemen, came -galloping to the place, and ordered me to rise and follow -them. I begged they would allow me to remain where I was, -if it was only for a few hours; but they paid little attention to -what I said, and, after a few threatening words, one of them -pulled out a pistol from a leather bag that was fastened to the -pommel of his saddle, and presenting it towards me, snapped it -twice. He did this with so much indifference, that I really -doubted whether the pistol was loaded. He cocked it a third -time, and was striking the flint with a piece of steel, when I -begged them to desist, and returned with them to the camp. -When we entered Ali’s tent we found him much out of -humour. He called for the Moor’s pistol, and amused -himself for some time with opening and shutting the pan; at -length taking up his powder-horn, he fresh primed it, and, -turning round to me with a menacing look, said something in -Arabic which I did not understand. I desired my boy, who -was sitting before the tent, to inquire what offence I had -committed; when I was informed, that having gone out of the camp -without Ali’s permission, they suspected that I had some -design of making my escape; and that, in future, if I was seen -without the skirts of the camp, orders had been given that I -should be shot by the first person that observed me.</p> -<p>In the afternoon the horizon to the eastward was thick and -hazy, and the Moors prognosticated a sand wind, which accordingly -commenced on the morning following, and lasted, with slight -intermissions, for two days. The force of the wind was not -in itself very great; it was what a seaman would have denominated -a <i>stiff breeze</i>; but the quantity of sand and dust carried -before it was such as to darken the whole atmosphere.</p> -<p>About this time all the women of the camp had their feet and -the ends of their fingers stained of a dark saffron colour. -I could never ascertain whether this was done from motives of -religion, or by way of ornament.</p> -<p><i>March</i> 28.—This morning a large herd of cattle -arrived from the eastward, and one of the drivers, to whom Ali -had lent my horse, came into my hut with the leg of an antelope -as a present, and told me that my horse was standing before -Ali’s tent. In a little time Ali sent one of his -slaves to inform me that in the afternoon I must be in readiness -to ride out with him, as he intended to show me to some of his -women.</p> -<p>About four o’clock, Ali, with six of his courtiers, came -riding to my hut, and told me to follow them. I readily -complied. But here a new difficulty occurred. The -Moors, accustomed to a loose and easy dress, could not reconcile -themselves to the appearance of my <i>nankeen breeches</i>, which -they said were not only inelegant, but, on account of their -tightness, very indecent; and as this was a visit to ladies, Ali -ordered my boy to bring out the loose cloak which I had always -worn since my arrival at Benowm, and told me to wrap it close -round me. We visited the tents of four different ladies, at -every one of which I was presented with a bowl of milk and -water. All these ladies were remarkably corpulent, which is -considered here as the highest mark of beauty. They were -very inquisitive, and examined my hair and skin with great -attention, but affected to consider me as a sort of inferior -being to themselves, and would knit their brows, and seem to -shudder when they looked at the whiteness of my skin.</p> -<p>The Moors are certainly very good horsemen. They ride -without fear—their saddles being high before and behind, -afford them a very secure seat; and if they chance to fall, the -whole country is so soft and sandy that they are very seldom -hurt. Their greatest pride, and one of their principal -amusements, is to put the horse to its full speed, and then stop -him with a sudden jerk, so as frequently to bring him down upon -his haunches. Ali always rode upon a milk-white horse, with -its tail dyed red. He never walked, unless when he went to -say his prayers; and even in the night two or three horses were -always kept ready saddled at a little distance from his own -tent. The Moors set a very high value upon their horses; -for it is by their superior fleetness that they are enabled to -make so many predatory excursions into the negro countries. -They feed them three or four times a day, and generally give them -a large quantity of sweet milk in the evening, which the horses -appear to relish very much.</p> -<p><i>April</i> 3.—This forenoon, a child, which had been -some time sickly, died in the next tent; and the mother and -relations immediately began the death-howl. They were -joined by a number of female visitors, who came on purpose to -assist at this melancholy concert. I had no opportunity of -seeing the burial, which is generally performed secretly, in the -dusk of the evening, and frequently at only a few yards’ -distance from the tent. Over the grave they plant one -particular shrub, and no stranger is allowed to pluck a leaf, or -even to touch it—so great a veneration have they for the -dead.</p> -<p><i>April</i> 7.—About four o’clock in the -afternoon a whirlwind passed through the camp with such violence -that it overturned three tents, and blew down one side of my -hut. These whirlwinds come from the Great Desert, and at -this season of the year are so common that I have seen five or -six of them at one time. They carry up quantities of sand -to an amazing height, which resemble, at a distance, so many -moving pillars of smoke.</p> -<p>The scorching heat of the sun, upon a dry and sandy country, -makes the air insufferably hot. Ali having robbed me of my -thermometer, I had no means of forming a comparative judgment; -but in the middle of the day, when the beams of the vertical sun -are seconded by the scorching wind from the desert, the ground is -frequently heated to such a degree as not to be borne by the -naked foot. Even the negro slaves will not run from one -tent to another without their sandals. At this time of the -day the Moors lie stretched at length in their tents, either -asleep, or unwilling to move; and I have often felt the wind so -hot, that I could not hold my hand in the current of air which -came through the crevices of my hut without feeling sensible -pain.</p> -<p><i>April</i> 8.—This day the wind blew from the -south-west; and in the night there was a heavy shower of rain, -accompanied with thunder and lightning.</p> -<p><i>April</i> 10.—In the evening the <i>tabala</i>, or -large drum, was beat to announce a wedding, which was held at one -of the neighbouring tents. A great number of people of both -sexes assembled, but without that mirth and hilarity which take -place at a negro wedding. Here was neither singing nor -dancing, nor any other amusement that I could perceive. A -woman was beating the drum, and the other women joining at times -like a chorus, by setting up a shrill scream, and at the same -time moving their tongues from one side of the mouth to the other -with great celerity. I was soon tired, and had returned -into my hut, where I was sitting almost asleep, when an old woman -entered with a wooden bowl in her hand, and signified that she -had brought me a present from the bride. Before I could -recover from the surprise which this message created, the woman -discharged the contents of the bowl full in my face. -Finding that it was the same sort of holy water with which, among -the Hottentots, a priest is said to sprinkle a newly-married -couple, I began to suspect that the old lady was actuated by -mischief or malice; but she gave me seriously to understand that -it was a nuptial benediction from the bride’s own person, -and which, on such occasions, is always received by the young -unmarried Moors as a mark of distinguished favour. This -being the case, I wiped my face, and sent my acknowledgments to -the lady. The wedding drum continued to beat, and the women -to sing, or rather whistle, all night. About nine in the -morning the bride was brought in state from her mother’s -tent, attended by a number of women who carried her tent (a -present from the husband), some bearing up the poles, others -holding by the strings; and in this manner they marched, -whistling as formerly, until they came to the place appointed for -her residence, where they pitched the tent. The husband -followed, with a number of men, leading four bullocks, which they -tied to the tent strings; and having killed another, and -distributed the beef among the people, the ceremony was -concluded.</p> -<h2>CHAPTER XI.<br /> -<span class="GutSmall">SUFFERINGS IN CAPTIVITY.</span></h2> -<p><span class="smcap">One</span> whole month had now elapsed -since I was led into captivity, during which time each returning -day brought me fresh distresses. I watched the lingering -course of the sun with anxiety, and blessed his evening beams as -they shined a yellow lustre along the sandy floor of my hut; for -it was then that my oppressors left me, and allowed me to pass -the sultry night in solitude and reflection.</p> -<p>About midnight a bowl of kouskous, with some salt and water, -were brought for me and my two attendants. This was our -common fare, and it was all that was allowed us to allay the -cravings of hunger and support nature for the whole of the -following day; for it is to be observed that this was the -Mohammedan Lent, and as the Moors keep the fast with a religious -strictness, they thought it proper to compel me, though a -Christian, to similar observance. Time, however, somewhat -reconciled me to my situation. I found that I could bear -hunger and thirst better than I expected; and at length I -endeavoured to beguile the tedious hours by learning to write -Arabic.</p> -<p><i>April</i> 14.—As Queen Fatima had not yet arrived, -Ali proposed to go to the north and bring her back with him; but -as the place was two days’ journey from Benowm it was -necessary to have some refreshment on the road; and Ali, -suspicious of those about him, was so afraid of being poisoned, -that he never ate anything but what was dressed under his own -immediate inspection. A fine bullock was therefore killed, -and the flesh being cut up into thin slices, was dried in the -sun; and this, with two bags of dry kouskous, formed his -travelling provisions.</p> -<p>Previous to his departure, the black people of the town of -Benowm came, according to their annual custom, to show their -arms, and bring their stipulated tribute of corn and cloth. -They were but badly armed—twenty-two with muskets, forty or -fifty with bows and arrows, and nearly the same number of men and -boys with spears only. They arranged themselves before the -tent, where they waited until their arms were examined, and some -little disputes settled.</p> -<p>About midnight on the 16th, Ali departed quietly from Benowm, -accompanied by a few attendants. He was expected to return -in the course of nine or ten days.</p> -<p><i>April</i> 18.—Two days after the departure of Ali a -shereef arrived with salt and some other articles from Walet, the -capital of the kingdom of Biroo. As there was no tent -appropriated for him, he took up his abode in the same hut with -me. He seemed to be a well-informed man, and his -acquaintance both with the Arabic and Bambarra tongues enabled -him to travel with ease and safety through a number of kingdoms; -for though his place of residence was Walet, he had visited -Houssa, and had lived some years at Timbuctoo. Upon my -inquiring so particularly about the distance from Walet to -Timbuctoo, he asked me if I intended to travel that way; and -being answered in the affirmative, he shook his head, and said it -would not do; for that Christians were looked upon there as the -devil’s children, and enemies to the Prophet. From -him I learned the following particulars:—That Houssa was -the largest town he had ever seen: that Walet was larger than -Timbuctoo, but being remote from the Niger, and its trade -consisting chiefly of salt, it was not so much resorted to by -strangers: that between Benowm and Walet was ten days’ -journey; but the road did not lead through any remarkable towns, -and travellers supported themselves by purchasing milk from the -Arabs, who keep their herds by the watering-places: two of the -days’ journeys was over a sandy country, without -water. From Walet to Timbuctoo was eleven days more; but -water was more plentiful, and the journey was usually performed -upon bullocks. He said there were many Jews at Timbuctoo, -but they all spoke Arabic, and used the same prayers as the -Moors. He frequently pointed his hand to the south-east -quarter, or rather the east by south, observing that Timbuctoo -was situated in that direction; and though I made him repeat this -information again and again, I never found him to vary more than -half a point, which was to the southward.</p> -<p><i>April</i> 24.—This morning Shereef Sidi Mahomed Moora -Abdalla, a native of Morocco, arrived with five bullocks loaded -with salt. He had formerly resided some months at -Gibraltar, where he had picked up as much English as enabled him -to make himself understood. He informed me that he had been -five months in coming from Santa Cruz; but that great part of the -time had been spent in trading. When I requested him to -enumerate the days employed in travelling from Morocco to Benowm, -he gave them as follows: To Swera, three days; to Agadier, three; -to Jinikin, ten; to Wadenoon, four; to Lakeneig, five; to -Zeeriwin-zerimani, five; to Tisheet, ten; to Benowm, ten—in -all, fifty days: but travellers usually rest a long while at -Jinikin and Tisheet—at the latter of which places they dig -the rock salt, which is so great an article of commerce with the -negroes.</p> -<p>In conversing with these shereefs, and the different strangers -that resorted to the camp, I passed my time with rather less -uneasiness than formerly. On the other hand, as the -dressing of my victuals was now left entirely to the care of -Ali’s slaves, over whom I had not the smallest control, I -found myself but ill supplied, worse even than in the fast month: -for two successive nights they neglected to send us our -accustomed meal; and though my boy went to a small negro town -near the camp, and begged with great diligence from hut to hut, -he could only procure a few handfuls of ground nuts, which he -readily shared with me.</p> -<p>We had been for some days in daily expectation of Ali’s -return from Saheel (or the north country) with his wife -Fatima. In the meanwhile, Mansong, king of Bambarra, as I -have related in Chapter VIII., had sent to Ali for a party of -horse to assist in storming Gedingooma. With this demand -Ali had not only refused to comply, but had treated the -messengers with great haughtiness and contempt; upon which -Mansong gave up all thoughts of taking the town, and prepared to -chastise Ali for his contumacy.</p> -<p>Things were in this situation when, on the 29th of April, a -messenger arrived at Benowm with the disagreeable intelligence -that the Bambarra army was approaching the frontiers of -Ludamar. This threw the whole country into confusion, and -in the afternoon Ali’s son, with about twenty horsemen, -arrived at Benowm. He ordered all the cattle to be driven -away immediately, all the tents to be struck, and the people to -hold themselves in readiness to depart at daylight the next -morning.</p> -<p><i>April</i> 30.—At daybreak the whole camp was in -motion. The baggage was carried upon bullocks—the two -tent poles being placed one on each side, and the different -wooden articles of the tent distributed in like manner; the tent -cloth was thrown over all, and upon this was commonly placed one -or two women; for the Moorish women are very bad walkers. -The king’s favourite concubines rode upon camels, with a -saddle of a particular construction, and a canopy to shelter them -from the sun. We proceeded to the northward until noon, -when the king’s son ordered the whole company, except the -tents, to enter a thick low wood which was upon our right. -I was sent along with the two tents, and arrived in the evening -at a negro town called Farani: here we pitched the tents in an -open place at no great distance from the town.</p> -<p><i>May</i> 1.—As I had some reason to suspect that this -day was also to be considered as a fast, I went in the morning to -the negro town of Farani, and begged some provisions from the -dooty, who readily supplied my wants, and desired me to come to -his house every day during my stay in the -neighbourhood.—These hospitable people are looked upon by -the Moors as an abject race of slaves, and are treated -accordingly.</p> -<p><i>May</i> 3.—We departed from the vicinity of Farani, -and after a circuitous route through the woods, arrived at -Ali’s camp in the afternoon. This encampment was -larger than that of Benowm, and was situated un the middle of a -thick wood, about two miles distant from a negro town called -Bubaker. I immediately waited upon Ali, in order to pay my -respects to Queen Fatima, who had come with him from -Saheel. He seemed much pleased with my coming, shook hands -with me, and informed his wife that I was the Christian. -She was a woman of the Arab caste, with long black hair, and -remarkably corpulent. She appeared at first rather shocked -at the thought of having a Christian so near her; but when I had, -by means of a negro boy who spoke the Mandingo and Arabic -tongues, answered a great many questions which her curiosity -suggested respecting the country of the Christians, she seemed -more at ease, and presented me with a bowl of milk, which I -considered as a very favourable omen.</p> -<p>The heat was now almost insufferable—all nature seemed -sinking under it. The distant country presented to the eye -a dreary expanse of sand, with a few stunted trees and prickly -bushes, in the shade of which the hungry cattle licked up the -withered grass, while the camels and goats picked off the scanty -foliage. The scarcity of water was greater here than at -Benowm. Day and night the wells were crowded with cattle, -lowing and fighting with each other to come at the troughs. -Excessive thirst made many of them furious; others, being too -weak to contend for the water, endeavoured to quench their thirst -by devouring the black mud from the gutters near the wells, which -they did with great avidity, though it was commonly fatal to -them.</p> -<p>One night, having solicited in vain for water at the camp, and -been quite feverish, I resolved to try my fortune at the wells, -which were about half a mile distant from the camp. -Accordingly I set out about midnight, and being guided by the -lowing of the cattle, soon arrived at the place, where I found -the Moors very busy drawing water. I requested permission -to drink, but was driven away with outrageous abuse. -Passing, however, from one well to another, I came at last to one -where there was only an old man and two boys. I made the -same request to this man, and he immediately drew me up a bucket -of water; but, as I was about to take hold of it, he recollected -that I was a Christian, and fearing that his bucket might be -polluted by my lips, he dashed the water into the trough, and -told me to drink from thence. Though this trough was none -of the largest, and three cows were already drinking from it, I -resolved to come in for my share; and kneeling down thrust my -head between two of the cows, and drank with great pleasure until -the water was nearly exhausted, and the cows began to contend -with each other for the last mouthful.</p> -<p>In adventures of this nature I passed the sultry month of May, -during which no material change took place in my situation. -Ali still considered me as a lawful prisoner; and Fatima, though -she allowed me a larger quantity of victuals than I had been -accustomed to receive at Benowm, had as yet said nothing on the -subject of my release. In the meantime, the frequent -changes of the wind, the gathering clouds, and distant lightning, -with other appearances of approaching rain, indicated that the -wet season was at hand, when the Moors annually evacuate the -country of the negroes, and return to the skirts of the Great -Desert. This made me consider that my fate was drawing -towards a crisis, and I resolved to wait for the event without -any seeming uneasiness; but circumstances occurred which produced -a change in my favour more suddenly than I had foreseen, or had -reason to expect. The case was this:—The fugitive -Kaartans, who had taken refuge in Ludamar, as I have related in -Chapter VIII., finding that the Moors were about to leave them, -and dreading the resentment of their own sovereign, whom they had -so basely deserted, offered to treat with Ali for two hundred -Moorish horsemen, to co-operate with them in an effort to expel -Daisy from Gedingooma; for until Daisy should be vanquished or -humbled they considered that they could neither return to their -native towns nor live in security in any of the neighbouring -kingdoms. With a view to extort money from these people by -means of this treaty, Ali despatched his son to Jarra, and -prepared to follow him in the course of a few days. This -was an opportunity of too great consequence to me to be -neglected. I immediately applied to Fatima, who, I found, -had the chief direction in all affairs of state, and begged her -interest with Ali to give me permission to accompany him to -Jarra. This request, after some hesitation, was favourably -received. Fatima looked kindly on me, and, I believe, was -at length moved with compassion towards me. My bundles were -brought from the large cow-skin bag that stood in the corner of -Ali’s tent, and I was ordered to explain the use of the -different articles, and show the method of putting on the boots, -stockings, &c.—with all which I cheerfully complied, -and was told that in the course of a few days I should be at -liberty to depart.</p> -<p>Believing, therefore, that I should certainly find the means -of escaping from Jarra, if I should once get thither, I now -freely indulged the pleasing hope that my captivity would soon -terminate; and happily not having been disappointed in this idea, -I shall pause in this place to collect and bring into one point -of view such observations on the Moorish character and country as -I had no fair opportunity of introducing into the preceding -narrative.</p> -<h2>CHAPTER XII.<br /> -<span class="GutSmall">OBSERVATIONS ON THE CHARACTER AND COUNTRY -OF THE MOORS.</span></h2> -<p><span class="smcap">The</span> Moors of this part of Africa -are divided into many separate tribes, of which the most -formidable, according to what was reported to me, are those of -Trasart and Il Braken, which inhabit the northern bank of the -Senegal river. The tribes of Gedumah, Jaffnoo, and Ludamar, -though not so numerous as the former, are nevertheless very -powerful and warlike, and are each governed by a chief, or king, -who exercises absolute jurisdiction over his own horde, without -acknowledging allegiance to a common sovereign. In time of -peace the employment of the people is pasturage. The Moors, -indeed, subsist chiefly on the flesh of their cattle, and are -always in the extreme of either gluttony or abstinence. In -consequence of the frequent and severe fasts which their religion -enjoins, and the toilsome journeys which they sometimes undertake -across the desert, they are enabled to bear both hunger and -thirst with surprising fortitude; but whenever opportunities -occur of satisfying their appetite they generally devour more at -one meal than would serve a European for three. They pay -but little attention to agriculture, purchasing their corn, -cotton, cloth, and other necessaries from the negroes, in -exchange for salt, which they dig from the pits in the Great -Desert.</p> -<p>The natural barrenness of the country is such that it -furnishes but few materials for manufacture. The Moors, -however, contrive to weave a strong cloth, with which they cover -their tents; the thread is spun by their women from the hair of -goats, and they prepare the hides of their cattle so as to -furnish saddles, bridles, pouches, and other articles of -leather. They are likewise sufficiently skilful to convert -the native iron, which they procure from the negroes, into spears -and knives, and also into pots for boiling their food; but their -sabres, and other weapons, as well as their firearms and -ammunition, they purchase from the Europeans, in exchange for the -negro slaves which they obtain in their predatory -excursions. Their chief commerce of this kind is with the -French traders on the Senegal river.</p> -<p>The Moors are rigid Mohammedans, and possess, with the bigotry -and superstition, all the intolerance of their sect. They -have no mosques at Benowm, but perform their devotions in a sort -of open shed, or enclosure, made of mats. The priest is, at -the same time, schoolmaster to the juniors. His pupils -assemble every evening before his tent; where, by the light of a -large fire, made of brushwood and cow’s dung, they are -taught a few sentences from the Koran, and are initiated into the -principles of their creed. Their alphabet differs but -little from that in Richardson’s Arabic Grammar. They -always write with the vowel points. Their priests even -affect to know something of foreign literature. The priest -of Benowm assured me that he could read the writings of the -Christians: he showed me a number of barbarous characters, which -he asserted were the Roman alphabet; and he produced another -specimen, equally unintelligible, which he declared to be the -<i>Kallam il Indi</i>, or Persian. His library consisted of -nine volumes in quarto; most of them, I believe, were books of -religion—for the name of Mohammed appeared in red letters -in almost every page of each. His scholars wrote their -lessons upon thin boards, paper being too expensive for general -use. The boys were diligent enough, and appeared to possess -a considerable share of emulation—carrying their boards -slung over their shoulders when about their common -employments. When a boy has committed to memory a few of -their prayers, and can read and write certain parts of the Koran, -he is reckoned sufficiently instructed; and with this slender -stock of learning commences his career of life. Proud of -his acquirements, he surveys with contempt the unlettered negro; -and embraces every opportunity of displaying his superiority over -such of his countrymen as are not distinguished by the same -accomplishments.</p> -<p>The education of the girls is neglected altogether: mental -accomplishments are but little attended to by the women; nor is -the want of them considered by the men as a defect in the female -character. They are regarded, I believe, as an inferior -species of animals; and seem to be brought up for no other -purpose than that of administering to the sensual pleasures of -their imperious masters. Voluptuousness is therefore -considered as their chief accomplishment, and slavish submission -as their indispensable duty.</p> -<p>The Moors have singular ideas of feminine perfection. -The gracefulness of figure and motion, and a countenance -enlivened by expression, are by no means essential points in -their standard. With them corpulence and beauty appear to -be terms nearly synonymous. A woman of even moderate -pretensions must be one who cannot walk without a slave under -each arm to support her; and a perfect beauty is a load for a -camel. In consequence of this prevalent taste for -unwieldiness of bulk, the Moorish ladies take great pains to -acquire it early in life; and for this purpose many of the young -girls are compelled by their mothers to devour a great quantity -of kouskous, and drink a large bowl of camel’s milk every -morning. It is of no importance whether the girl has an -appetite or not; the kouskous and milk must be swallowed, and -obedience is frequently enforced by blows. I have seen a -poor girl sit crying, with the bowl at her lips, for more than an -hour, and her mother, with a stick in her hand, watching her all -the while, and using the stick without mercy whenever she -observed that her daughter was not swallowing. This -singular practice, instead of producing indigestion and disease, -soon covers the young lady with that degree of plumpness which, -in the eye of a Moor, is perfection itself.</p> -<p>As the Moors purchase all their clothing from the negroes, the -women are forced to be very economical in the article of -dress. In general they content themselves with a broad -piece of cotton cloth, which is wrapped round the middle, and -hangs down like a petticoat almost to the ground. To the -upper part of this are sewed two square pieces, one before, and -the other behind, which are fastened together over the -shoulders. The head-dress is commonly a bandage of cotton -cloth, with some parts of it broader than others, which serve to -conceal the face when they walk in the sun. Frequently, -however, when they go abroad, they veil themselves from head to -foot.</p> -<p>The employment of the women varies according to their degrees -of opulence. Queen Fatima, and a few others of high rank, -like the great ladies in some parts of Europe, pass their time -chiefly in conversing with their visitors, performing their -devotions, or admiring their charms in a looking-glass. The -women of inferior class employ themselves in different domestic -duties. They are very vain and talkative; and when anything -puts them out of humour they commonly vent their anger upon their -female slaves, over whom they rule with severe and despotic -authority, which leads me to observe that the condition of these -poor captives is deplorably wretched. At daybreak they are -compelled to fetch water from the wells in large skins, called -<i>girbas</i>; and as soon as they have brought water enough to -serve the family for the day, as well as the horses (for the -Moors seldom give their horses the trouble of going to the -wells), they are then employed in pounding the corn and dressing -the victuals. This being always done in the open air, the -slaves are exposed to the combined heat of the sun, the sand, and -the fire. In the intervals it is their business to sweep -the tent, churn the milk, and perform other domestic -offices. With all this they are badly fed, and oftentimes -cruelly punished.</p> -<p>The men’s dress, among the Moors of Ludamar, differs but -little from that of the negroes, which has been already -described, except that they have all adopted that characteristic -of the Mohammedan sect, the turban, which is here universally -made of white cotton cloth. Such of the Moors as have long -beards display them with a mixture of pride and satisfaction, as -denoting an Arab ancestry. Of this number was Ali himself; -but among the generality of the people the hair is short and -busy, and universally black. And here I may be permitted to -observe, that if any one circumstance excited among them -favourable thoughts towards my own person, it was my beard, which -was now grown to an enormous length, and was always beheld with -approbation or envy. I believe, in my conscience, they -thought it too good a beard for a Christian.</p> -<p>The only diseases which I observed to prevail among the Moors -were the intermittent fever and dysentery—for the cure of -which nostrums are sometimes administered by their old women, but -in general nature is left to her own operations. Mention -was made to me of the small-pox as being sometimes very -destructive; but it had not, to my knowledge, made its appearance -in Ludamar while I was in captivity. That it prevails, -however, among some tribes of the Moors, and that it is -frequently conveyed by them to the negroes in the southern -states, I was assured on the authority of Dr. Laidley, who also -informed me that the negroes on the Gambia practise -inoculation.</p> -<p>The administration of criminal justice, as far as I had -opportunities of observing, was prompt and decisive: for although -civil rights were but little regarded in Ludamar, it was -necessary when crimes were committed that examples should -sometimes be made. On such occasions the offender was -brought before Ali, who pronounced, of his sole authority, what -judgment he thought proper. But I understood that capital -punishment was seldom or never inflicted, except on the -negroes.</p> -<p>Although the wealth of the Moors consists chiefly in their -numerous herds of cattle, yet, as the pastoral life does not -afford full employment, the majority of the people are perfectly -idle, and spend the day in trifling conversation about their -horses, or in laying schemes of depredation on the negro -villages.</p> -<p>Of the number of Ali’s Moorish subjects I had no means -of forming a correct estimate. The military strength of -Ludamar consists in cavalry. They are well mounted, and -appear to be very expert in skirmishing and attacking by -surprise. Every soldier furnishes his own horse, and finds -his accoutrements, consisting of a large sabre, a -double-barrelled gun, a small red leather bag for holding his -balls, and a powder bag slung over the shoulder. He has no -pay, nor any remuneration but what arises from plunder. -This body is not very numerous; for when Ali made war upon -Bambarra I was informed that his whole force did not exceed two -thousand cavalry. They constitute, however, by what I could -learn, but a very small proportion of his Moorish subjects. -The horses are very beautiful, and so highly esteemed that the -negro princes will sometimes give from twelve to fourteen slaves -for one horse.</p> -<p>Ludamar has for its northern boundary the great desert of -Sahara. From the best inquiries I could make, this vast -ocean of sand, which occupies so large a space in northern -Africa, may be pronounced almost destitute of inhabitants, except -where the scanty vegetation which appears in certain spots -affords pasturage for the flocks of a few miserable Arabs, who -wander from one well to another. In other places, where the -supply of water and pasturage is more abundant, small parties of -the Moors have taken up their residence. Here they live, in -independent poverty, secure from the tyrannical government of -Barbary. But the greater part of the desert, being totally -destitute of water, is seldom visited by any human being, unless -where the trading caravans trace out their toilsome and dangerous -route across it. In some parts of this extensive waste the -ground is covered with low stunted shrubs, which serve as -landmarks for the caravans, and furnish the camels with a scanty -forage. In other parts the disconsolate wanderer, wherever -he turns, sees nothing around him but a vast interminable expanse -of sand and sky—a gloomy and barren void, where the eye -finds no particular object to rest upon, and the mind is filled -with painful apprehensions of perishing with thirst.</p> -<p>The few wild animals which inhabit these melancholy regions -are the antelope and the ostrich; their swiftness of foot -enabling them to reach the distant watering-places. On the -skirts of the desert, where water is more plentiful, are found -lions, panthers, elephants, and wild bears.</p> -<p>Of domestic animals, the only one that can endure the fatigue -of crossing the desert is the camel. By the particular -conformation of the stomach he is enabled to carry a supply of -water sufficient for ten or twelve days; his broad and yielding -foot is well adapted for a sandy country; and, by a singular -motion of his upper lip, he picks the smallest leaves from the -thorny shrubs of the desert as he passes along. The camel -is therefore the only beast of burden employed by the trading -caravans which traverse the desert in different directions, from -Barbary to Nigritia. As this useful and docile creature has -been sufficiently described by systematical writers it is -unnecessary for me to enlarge upon his properties. I shall -only add that his flesh, though to my own taste dry and -unsavoury, is preferred by the Moors to any other; and that the -milk of the female is in universal esteem, and is indeed sweet, -pleasant, and nutritive.</p> -<p>I have observed that the Moors, in their complexion, resemble -the mulattoes of the West Indies; but they have something -unpleasant in their aspect which the mulattoes have not. I -fancied that I discovered in the features of most of them a -disposition towards cruelty and low cunning; and I could never -contemplate their physiognomy without feeling sensible -uneasiness. From the staring wildness of their eyes a -stranger would immediately set them down as a nation of -lunatics. The treachery and malevolence of their character -are manifest in their plundering excursions against the negro -villages. Oftentimes without the smallest provocation, and -sometimes under the fairest professions of friendship, they will -suddenly seize upon the negroes’ cattle, and even on the -inhabitants themselves. The negroes very seldom -retaliate.</p> -<p>Like the roving Arabs, the Moors frequently remove from one -place to another, according to the season of the year or the -convenience of pasturage. In the month of February, when -the heat of the sun scorches up every sort of vegetation in the -desert, they strike their tents and approach the negro country to -the south, where they reside until the rains commence, in the -month of July. At this time, having purchased corn and -other necessaries from the negroes, in exchange for salt, they -again depart to the northward, and continue in the desert until -the rains are over, and that part of the country becomes burnt up -and barren.</p> -<p>This wandering and restless way of life, while it inures them -to hardships, strengthens at the same time the bonds of their -little society, and creates in them an aversion towards strangers -which is almost insurmountable. Cut off from all -intercourse with civilised nations, and boasting an advantage -over the negroes, by possessing, though in a very limited degree, -the knowledge of letters, they are at once the vainest and -proudest, and perhaps the most bigoted, ferocious, and intolerant -of all the nations on the earth—combining in their -character the blind superstition of the negro with the savage -cruelty and treachery of the Arab.</p> -<h2>CHAPTER XIII.<br /> -<span class="GutSmall">ESCAPE FROM CAPTIVITY.</span></h2> -<p><span class="smcap">Having</span>, as hath been related, -obtained permission to accompany Ali to Jarra, I took leave of -Queen Fatima, who, with much grace and civility, returned me part -of my apparel; and the evening before my departure, my horse, -with the saddle and bridle, were sent me by Ali’s -order.</p> -<p>Early on the morning of the 26th of May I departed from the -camp of Bubaker, accompanied by my two attendants, Johnson and -Demba, and a number of Moors on horseback, Ali, with about fifty -horsemen, having gone privately from the camp during the -night. We stopped about noon at Farani, and were there -joined by twelve Moors riding upon camels, and with them we -proceeded to a watering-place in the woods, where we overtook Ali -and his fifty horsemen. They were lodged in some low -shepherd’s tents near the wells.</p> -<p><i>May</i> 28.—Early in the morning the Moors saddled -their horses, and Ali’s chief slave ordered me to get in -readiness. In a little time the same messenger returned, -and, taking my boy by the shoulder, told him in the Mandingo -language, that “Ali was to be his master in future;” -and then turning to me, “The business is settled at -last,” said he; “the boy, and everything but your -horse, goes back to Bubaker, but you may take the old fool” -(meaning Johnson the interpreter) “with you to -Jarra.” I made him no answer; but being shocked -beyond description at the idea of losing the poor boy, I hastened -to Ali, who was at breakfast before his tent, surrounded by many -of his courtiers. I told him (perhaps in rather too -passionate a strain), that whatever imprudence I had been guilty -of in coming into his country, I thought I had already been -sufficiently punished for it by being so long detained, and then -plundered of all my little property; which, however, gave me no -uneasiness when compared with what he had just now done to -me. I observed that the boy whom he had now seized upon was -not a slave, and had been accused of no offence; he was, indeed, -one of my attendants, and his faithful services in that station -had procured him his freedom. His fidelity and attachment -had made him fellow me into my present situation, and, as he -looked up to me for protection I could not see him deprived of -his liberty without remonstrating against such an act as the -height of cruelty and injustice. Ali made no reply, but, -with a haughty air and malignant smile, told his interpreter that -if I did not mount my horse immediately he would send me back -likewise. There is something in the frown of a tyrant which -rouses the most secret emotions of the heart: I could not -suppress my feelings, and for once entertained an indignant wish -to rid the world of such a monster.</p> -<p>Poor Demba was not less affected than myself. He had -formed a strong attachment towards me, and had a cheerfulness of -disposition which often beguiled the tedious hours of -captivity. He was likewise a proficient in the Bambarra -tongue, and promised on that account to be of great utility to me -in future. But it was in vain to expect anything favourable -to humanity from people who are strangers to its dictates. -So, having shaken hands with this unfortunate boy, and blended my -tears with his, assuring him, however, that I would do my utmost -to redeem him, I saw him led off by three of Ali’s slaves -towards the camp at Bubaker.</p> -<p>When the Moors had mounted their horses I was ordered to -follow them, and, after a toilsome journey through the woods in a -very sultry day, we arrived in the afternoon at a walled village -called Doombani, where we remained two days, waiting for the -arrival of some horsemen from the northward.</p> -<p>On the 1st of June we departed from Doombani towards -Jarra. Our company now amounted to two hundred men, all on -horseback, for the Moors never use infantry in their wars. -They appeared capable of enduring great fatigue; but from their -total want of discipline our journey to Jarra was more like a -fox-chase than the march of an army.</p> -<p>At Jarra I took up my lodging at the house of my old -acquaintance, Daman Jumma, and informed him of everything that -had befallen me. I particularly requested him to use his -interest with Ali to redeem my boy, and promised him a bill upon -Dr. Laidley for the value of two slaves the moment he brought him -to Jarra. Daman very readily undertook to negotiate the -business, but found that Ali considered the boy as my principal -interpreter, and was unwilling to part with him, lest he should -fall a second time into my hands, and be instrumental in -conducting me to Bambarra. Ali, therefore, put off the -matter from day to day, but withal told Daman that if he wished -to purchase the boy for himself he should have him thereafter at -the common price of a slave, which Daman agreed to pay for him -whenever Ali should send him to Jarra.</p> -<p>The chief object of Ali, in this journey to Jarra, as I have -already related, was to procure money from such of the Kaartans -as had taken refuge in his country. Some of these had -solicited his protection to avoid the horrors of war, but by far -the greatest number of them were dissatisfied men, who wished the -ruin of their own sovereign. These people no sooner heard -that the Bambarra army had returned to Sego without subduing -Daisy, as was generally expected, than they resolved to make a -sudden attack themselves upon him before he could recruit his -forces, which were now known to be much diminished by a bloody -campaign, and in great want of provisions. With this view -they solicited the Moors to join them, and offered to hire of Ali -two hundred horsemen, which Ali, with the warmest professions of -friendship, agreed to furnish, upon condition that they should -previously supply him with four hundred head of cattle, two -hundred garments of blue cloth, and a considerable quantity of -beads and ornaments.</p> -<p><i>June</i> 8.—In the afternoon Ali sent his chief slave -to inform me that he was about to return to Bubaker: but as he -would only stay there a few days to keep the approaching festival -(<i>Banna selee</i>), and then return to Jarra, I had permission -to remain with Daman until his return. This was joyful news -to me; but I had experienced so many disappointments that I was -unwilling to indulge the hope of its being true, until Johnson -came and told me that Ali, with part of the horsemen, were -actually gone from the town, and that the rest were to follow him -in the morning.</p> -<p><i>June</i> 9.—Early in the morning the remainder of the -Moors departed from the town. They had, during their stay, -committed many acts of robbery; and this morning with the most -unparalleled audacity, they seized upon three girls who were -bringing water from the wells, and carried them away into -slavery.</p> -<p><i>June</i> 12.—Two people, dreadfully wounded, were -discovered at a watering-place in the woods; one of them had just -breathed his last, but the other was brought alive to -Jarra. On recovering a little he informed the people that -he had fled through the woods from Kasson; that Daisy had made -war upon Sambo, the king of that country; had surprised three of -his towns, and put all the inhabitants to the sword. He -enumerated by name many of the friends of the Jarra people who -had been murdered in Kasson. This intelligence made the -death-howl universal in Jarra for the space of two days.</p> -<p>This piece of bad news was followed by another not less -distressing. A number of runaway slaves arrived from Kaarta -on the 14th, and reported that Daisy, having received information -concerning the intended attack upon him, was about to visit -Jarra. This made the negroes call upon Ali for the two -hundred horsemen which he was to furnish them according to -engagement. But Ali paid very little attention to their -remonstrances, and at last plainly told them that his cavalry -were otherwise employed. The negroes, thus deserted by the -Moors, and fully apprised that the king of Kaarta would show them -as little clemency as he had shown the inhabitants of Kasson, -resolved to collect all their forces, and hazard a battle before -the king, who was now in great distress for want of provisions, -should become too powerful for them. They therefore -assembled about eight hundred effective men in the whole, and -with these they entered Kaarta on the evening of the 18th of -June.</p> -<p><i>June</i> 19.—This morning the wind shifted to the -south-west; and about two o’clock in the afternoon we had a -heavy tornado, or thunder-squall, accompanied with rain, which -greatly revived the face of nature, and gave a pleasant coolness -to the air. This was the first rain that had fallen for -many months.</p> -<p>As every attempt to redeem my boy had hitherto been -unsuccessful, and in all probability would continue to prove so -whilst I remained in the country, I found that it was necessary -for me to come to some determination concerning my own safety -before the rains should be fully set in; for my landlord, seeing -no likelihood of being paid for his trouble, began to wish me -away—and Johnson, my interpreter, refusing to proceed, my -situation became very perplexing. I determined to avail -myself of the first opportunity of escaping, and to proceed -directly for Bambarra, as soon as the rains had set in for a few -days, so as to afford me the certainty of finding water in the -woods.</p> -<p>Such was my situation when, on the evening of the 24th of -June, I was startled by the report of some muskets close to the -town, and inquiring the reason, was informed that the Jarra army -had returned from fighting Daisy, and that this firing was by way -of rejoicing. However, when the chief men of the town had -assembled, and heard a full detail of the expedition, they were -by no means relieved from their uneasiness on Daisy’s -account. The deceitful Moors having drawn back from the -confederacy, after being hired by the negroes, greatly dispirited -the insurgents, who, instead of finding Daisy with a few friends -concealed in the strong fortress of Gedingooma, had found him at -a town near Joka, in the open country, surrounded by so numerous -an army that every attempt to attack him was at once given up; -and the confederates only thought of enriching themselves by the -plunder of the small towns in the neighbourhood. They -accordingly fell upon one of Daisy’s towns, and carried off -the whole of the inhabitants; but lest intelligence of this might -reach Daisy, and induce him to cut off their retreat, they -returned through the woods by night bringing with them the slaves -and cattle which they had captured.</p> -<p><i>June</i> 26.—This afternoon a spy from Kaarta brought -the alarming intelligence that Daisy had taken Simbing in the -morning, and would be in Jarra some time in the course of the -ensuing day. Early in the morning nearly one-half of the -townspeople took the road for Bambarra, by the way of Deena.</p> -<p>Their departure was very affecting, the women and children -crying, the men sullen and dejected, and all of them looking back -with regret on their native town, and on the wells and rocks -beyond which their ambition had never tempted them to stray, and -where they had laid all their plans of future happiness, all of -which they were now forced to abandon, and to seek shelter among -strangers.</p> -<p><i>June</i> 27.—About eleven o’clock in the -forenoon we were alarmed by the sentinels, who brought -information that Daisy was on his march towards Jarra, and that -the confederate army had fled before him without firing a -gun. The terror of the townspeople on this occasion is not -easily to be described. Indeed, the screams of the women -and children, and the great hurry and confusion that everywhere -prevailed, made me suspect that the Kaartans had already entered -the town; and although I had every reason to be pleased with -Daisy’s behaviour to me when I was at Kemmoo, I had no wish -to expose myself to the mercy of his army, who might in the -general confusion mistake me for a Moor. I therefore -mounted my horse, and taking a large bag of corn before me, rode -slowly along with the townspeople, until we reached the foot of a -rocky hill, where I dismounted and drove my horse up before -me. When I had reached the summit I sat down, and having a -full view of the town and the neighbouring country, could not -help lamenting the situation of the poor inhabitants, who were -thronging after me, driving their sheep, cows, goats, &c., -and carrying a scanty portion of provisions and a few -clothes. There was a great noise and crying everywhere upon -the road, for many aged people and children were unable to walk, -and these, with the sick, were obliged to be carried, otherwise -they must have been left to certain destruction.</p> -<p>About five o’clock we arrived at a small farm belonging -to the Jarra people, called Kadeeja; and here I found Daman and -Johnson employed in filling large bags of corn, to be carried -upon bullocks, to serve as provisions for Daman’s family on -the road.</p> -<p><i>June</i> 28.—At daybreak we departed from Kadeeja, -and having passed Troongoomba without stopping, arrived in the -afternoon at Queira. I remained here two days, in order to -recruit my horse, which the Moors had reduced to a perfect -Rosinante, and to wait for the arrival of some Mandingo negroes, -who were going for Bambarra in the course of a few days.</p> -<p>On the afternoon of the 1st of July, as I was tending my horse -in the fields, Ali’s chief slave and four Moors arrived at -Queira, and took up their lodging at the dooty’s -house. My interpreter, Johnson, who suspected the nature of -this visit, sent two boys to overhear their conversation, from -which he learnt that they were sent to convey me back to -Bubaker. The same evening two of the Moors came privately -to look at my horse, and one of them proposed taking it to the -dooty’s hut, but the other observed that such a precaution -was unnecessary, as I could never escape upon such an -animal. They then inquired where I slept, and returned to -their companions.</p> -<p>All this was like a stroke of thunder to me, for I dreaded -nothing so much as confinement again among the Moors, from whose -barbarity I had nothing but death to expect. I therefore -determined to set off immediately for Bambarra, a measure which I -thought offered almost the only chance of saving my life and -gaining the object of my mission. I communicated the design -to Johnson, who, although he applauded my resolution, was so far -from showing any inclination to accompany me, that he solemnly -protested he would rather forfeit his wages than go any -farther. He told me that Daman had agreed to give him half -the price of a slave for his service to assist in conducting a -coffle of slaves to Gambia, and that he was determined to embrace -the opportunity of returning to his wife and family.</p> -<p>Having no hopes, therefore, of persuading him to accompany me, -I resolved to proceed by myself. About midnight I got my -clothes in readiness, which consisted of two shirts, two pairs of -trousers, two pocket-handkerchiefs, an upper and under waistcoat, -a mat, and a pair of half-boots; these, with a cloak, constituted -my whole wardrobe. And I had not one single bead, nor any -other article of value in my possession, to purchase victuals for -myself or corn for my horse.</p> -<p>About daybreak, Johnson, who had been listening to the Moors -all night, came and whispered to me that they were asleep. -The awful crisis was now arrived when I was again either to taste -the blessing of freedom or languish out my days in -captivity. A cold sweat moistened my forehead as I thought -on the dreadful alternative, and reflected that, one way or -another, my fate must be decided in the course of the ensuing -day. But to deliberate was to lose the only chance of -escaping. So, taking up my bundle, I stepped gently over -the negroes, who were sleeping in the open air, and having -mounted my horse, I bade Johnson farewell, desiring him to take -particular care of the papers I had entrusted him with, and -inform my friends in Gambia that he had left me in good health, -on my way to Bambarra.</p> -<p>I proceeded with great caution, surveying each bush, and -frequently listening and looking behind me for the Moorish -horsemen, until I was about a mile from the town, when I was -surprised to find myself in the neighbourhood of a korree -belonging to the Moors. The shepherds followed me for about -a mile, hooting and throwing stones after me; and when I was out -of their reach, and had begun to indulge the pleasing hopes of -escaping, I was again greatly alarmed to hear somebody holloa -behind me, and looking back, I saw three Moors on horseback, -coming after me at full speed, whooping and brandishing their -double-barrelled guns. I knew it was in vain to think of -escaping, and therefore turned back and met them, when two of -them caught hold of my bridle, one on each side, and the third, -presenting his musket, told me I must go back to Ali. When -the human mind has for some time been fluctuating between hope -and despair, tortured with anxiety, and hurried from one extreme -to another, it affords a sort of gloomy relief to know the worst -that can possibly happen. Such was my situation. An -indifference about life and all its enjoyments had completely -benumbed my faculties, and I rode back with the Moors with -apparent unconcern. But a change took place much sooner -than I had any reason to expect. In passing through some -thick bushes one of the Moors ordered me to untie my bundle and -show them the contents. Having examined the different -articles, they found nothing worth taking except my cloak, which -they considered as a very valuable acquisition, and one of them -pulling it from me, wrapped it about himself, and, with one of -his companions, rode off with their prize. When I attempted -to follow them, the third, who had remained with me, struck my -horse over the head, and presenting his musket, told me I should -proceed no farther. I now perceived that these men had not -been sent by any authority to apprehend me, but had pursued me -solely with a view to rob and plunder me. Turning my -horse’s head, therefore, once more towards the east, and -observing the Moor follow the track of his confederates, I -congratulated myself on having escaped with my life, though in -great distress, from such a horde of barbarians.</p> -<p>I was no sooner out of sight of the Moor than I struck into -the woods to prevent being pursued, and kept pushing on with all -possible speed, until I found myself near some high rocks, which -I remembered to have seen in my former route from Queira to Deena -and, directing my course a little to the northward, I fortunately -fell in with the path.</p> -<h2>CHAPTER XIV.<br /> -<span class="GutSmall">JOURNEY CONTINUED; ARRIVAL AT -WAWRA.</span></h2> -<p><span class="smcap">It</span> is impossible to describe the -joy that arose in my mind when I looked around and concluded that -I was out of danger. I felt like one recovered from -sickness; I breathed freer; I found unusual lightness in my -limbs; even the desert looked pleasant; and I dreaded nothing so -much as falling in with some wandering parties of Moors, who -might convey me back to the land of thieves and murderers from -which I had just escaped.</p> -<p>I soon became sensible, however, that my situation was very -deplorable, for I had no means of procuring food nor prospect of -finding water. About ten o’clock, perceiving a herd -of goats feeding close to the road, I took a circuitous route to -avoid being seen, and continued travelling through the -wilderness, directing my course by compass nearly -east-south-east, in order to reach as soon as possible some town -or village of the kingdom of Bambarra.</p> -<p>A little after noon, when the burning heat of the sun was -reflected with double violence from the hot sand, and the distant -ridges of the hills, seen through the ascending vapour, seemed to -wave and fluctuate like the unsettled sea, I became faint with -thirst, and climbed a tree in hopes of seeing distant smoke, or -some other appearance of a human habitation—but in vain: -nothing appeared all around but thick underwood and hillocks of -white sand.</p> -<p>About four o’clock I came suddenly upon a large herd of -goats, and pulling my horse into a bush, I watched to observe if -the keepers were Moors or negroes. In a little time I -perceived two Moorish boys, and with some difficulty persuaded -them to approach me. They informed me that the herd -belonged to Ali, and that they were going to Deena, where the -water was more plentiful, and where they intended to stay until -the rain had filled the pools in the desert. They showed me -their empty water-skins, and told me that they had seen no water -in the woods. This account afforded me but little -consolation; however, it was in vain to repine, and I pushed on -as fast as possible, in hopes of reaching some watering-place in -the course of the night. My thirst was by this time become -insufferable; my mouth was parched and inflamed; a sudden dimness -would frequently come over my eyes, with other symptoms of -fainting; and my horse being very much fatigued, I began -seriously to apprehend that I should perish of thirst. To -relieve the burning pain in my mouth and throat I chewed the -leaves of different shrubs, but found them all bitter, and of no -service to me.</p> -<p>A little before sunset, having reached the top of a gentle -rising, I climbed a high tree, from the topmost branches of which -I cast a melancholy look over the barren wilderness, but without -discovering the most distant trace of a human dwelling. The -same dismal uniformity of shrubs and sand everywhere presented -itself, and the horizon was as level and uninterrupted as that of -the sea.</p> -<p>Descending from the tree, I found my horse devouring the -stubble and brushwood with great avidity; and as I was now too -faint to attempt walking, and my horse too much fatigued to carry -me I thought it but an act of humanity, and perhaps the last I -should ever have it in my power to perform, to take off his -bridle and let him shift for himself, in doing which I was -suddenly affected with sickness and giddiness, and falling upon -the sand, felt as if the hour of death was fast -approaching. Here, then, thought I, after a short but -ineffectual struggle, terminate all my hopes of being useful in -my day and generation; here must the short span of my life come -to an end. I cast, as I believed, a last look on the -surrounding scene, and whilst I reflected on the awful change -that was about to take place, this world with its enjoyment -seemed to vanish from my recollection. Nature, however, at -length resumed its functions, and on recovering my senses, I -found myself stretched upon the sand, with the bridle still in my -hand, and the sun just sinking behind the trees. I now -summoned all my resolution, and determined to make another effort -to prolong my existence; and as the evening was somewhat cool, I -resolved to travel as far as my limbs would carry me, in hopes of -reaching—my only resource—a watering-place. -With this view I put the bridle on my horse, and driving him -before me, went slowly along for about an hour, when I perceived -some lightning from the north-east—a most delightful sight, -for it promised rain. The darkness and lightning increased -very rapidly, and in less than an hour I heard the wind roaring -among the bushes. I had already opened my mouth to receive -the refreshing drops which I expected, but I was instantly -covered with a cloud of sand, driven with such force by the wind -as to give a very disagreeable sensation to my face and arms, and -I was obliged to mount my horse and stop under a bush to prevent -being suffocated. The sand continued to fly in amazing -quantities for nearly an hour, after which I again set forward, -and travelled with difficulty until ten o’clock. -About this time I was agreeably surprised by some very vivid -flashes of lightning, followed by a few heavy drops of -rain. In a little time the sand ceased to fly, and I -alighted and spread out all my clean clothes to collect the rain, -which at length I saw would certainly fall. For more than -an hour it rained plentifully, and I quenched my thirst by -wringing and sucking my clothes.</p> -<p>There being no moon, it was remarkably dark, so that I was -obliged to lead my horse, and direct my way by the compass, which -the lightning enabled me to observe. In this manner I -travelled with tolerable expedition until past midnight, when the -lightning becoming more distant, I was under the necessity of -groping along, to the no small danger of my hands and eyes. -About two o’clock my horse started at something, and -looking round, I was not a little surprised to see a light at a -short distance among the trees; and supposing it to be a town, I -groped along the sand in hopes of finding corn-stalks, cotton, or -other appearances of cultivation, but found none. As I -approached I perceived a number of other lights in different -places, and began to suspect that I had fallen upon a party of -Moors. However, in my present situation, I was resolved to -see who they were, if I could do it with safety. I -accordingly led my horse cautiously towards the light, and heard -by the lowing of the cattle and the clamorous tongues of the -herdsmen, that it was a watering-place, and most likely belonged -to the Moors. Delightful as the sound of the human voice -was to me, I resolved once more to strike into the woods, and -rather run the risk of perishing of hunger than trust myself -again in their hands; but being still thirsty, and dreading the -approach of the burning day, I thought it prudent to search for -the wells, which I expected to find at no great distance.</p> -<p>In this purpose I inadvertently approached so near to one of -the tents as to be perceived by a woman, who immediately screamed -out. Two people came running to her assistance from some of -the neighbouring tents, and passed so very near to me that I -thought I was discovered, and hastened again into the woods.</p> -<p>About a mile from this place I heard a loud and confused noise -somewhere to the right of my course, and in a short time was -happy to find it was the croaking of frogs, which was heavenly -music to my ears. I followed the sound, and at daybreak -arrived at some shallow muddy pools, so full of frogs, that it -was difficult to discern the water. The noise they made -frightened my horse, and I was obliged to keep them quiet, by -beating the water with a branch, until he had drunk. Having -here quenched my thirst, I ascended a tree, and the morning being -calm, I soon perceived the smoke of the watering-place which I -had passed in the night, and observed another pillar of smoke -east-south-east, distant twelve or fourteen miles. Towards -this I directed my route, and reached the cultivated ground a -little before eleven o’clock, where, seeing a number of -negroes at work planting corn, I inquired the name of the town, -and was informed that it was a Foulah village belonging to Ali, -called Shrilla. I had now some doubts about entering it; -but my horse being very much fatigued, and the day growing -hot—not to mention the pangs of hunger, which began to -assail me—I resolved to venture; and accordingly rode up to -the dooty’s house, where I was unfortunately denied -admittance, and could not obtain oven a handful of corn either -for myself or horse. Turning from this inhospitable door, I -rode slowly out of the town, and, perceiving some low, scattered -huts without the walls, I directed my route towards them, knowing -that in Africa, as well as in Europe, hospitality does not always -prefer the highest dwellings. At the door of one of these -huts an old motherly-looking woman sat, spinning cotton. I -made signs to her that I was hungry, and inquired if she had any -victuals with her in the hut. She immediately laid down her -distaff, and desired me, in Arabic, to come in. When I had -seated myself upon the floor, she set before me a dish of -kouskous that had been left the preceding night, of which I made -a tolerable meal; and in return for this kindness I gave her one -of my pocket-handkerchiefs, begging at the same time a little -corn for my horse, which she readily brought me.</p> -<p>Whilst my horse was feeding the people began to assemble, and -one of them whispered something to my hostess which very much -excited her surprise. Though I was not well acquainted with -the Foulah language, I soon discovered that some of the men -wished to apprehend and carry me back to Ali, in hopes, I -suppose, of receiving a reward. I therefore tied up the -corn; and lest any one should suspect I had run away from the -Moors, I took a northerly direction, and went cheerfully along, -driving my horse before me, followed by all the boys and girls of -the town. When I had travelled about two miles, and got -quit of all my troublesome attendants, I struck again into the -woods, and took shelter under a large tree, where I found it -necessary to rest myself, a bundle of twigs serving me for a bed, -and my saddle for a pillow.</p> -<p><i>July</i> 4.—At daybreak I pursued my course through -the woods as formerly; saw numbers of antelopes, wild hogs, and -ostriches, but the soil was more hilly, and not so fertile as I -had found it the preceding day. About eleven o’clock -I ascended an eminence, where I climbed a tree, and discovered, -at about eight miles’ distance, an open part of the -country, with several red spots, which I concluded were -cultivated land, and, directing my course that way, came to the -precincts of a watering-place about one o’clock. From -the appearance of the place, I judged it to belong to the -Foulahs, and was hopeful that I should meet a better reception -than I had experienced at Shrilla. In this I was not -deceived, for one of the shepherds invited me to come into his -tent and partake of some dates. This was one of those low -Foulah tents in which there is room just sufficient to sit -upright, and in which the family, the furniture, &c., seem -huddled together like so many articles in a chest. When I -had crept upon my hands and knees into this humble habitation, I -found that it contained a woman and three children, who, together -with the shepherd and myself, completely occupied the -floor. A dish of boiled corn and dates was produced, and -the master of the family, as is customary in this part of the -country, first tasted it himself, and then desired me to follow -his example. Whilst I was eating, the children kept their -eyes fixed upon me, and no sooner did the shepherd pronounce the -word <i>Nazarani</i>, than they began to cry, and their mother -crept slowly towards the door, out of which she sprang like a -greyhound, and was instantly followed by her children. So -frightened were they at the very name of a Christian, that no -entreaties could induce them to approach the tent. Here I -purchased some corn for my horse, in exchange for some brass -buttons, and having thanked the shepherd for his hospitality, -struck again into the woods. At sunset I came to a road -that took the direction for Bambarra, and resolved to follow it -for the night; but about eight o’clock, hearing some people -coming from the southward, I thought it prudent to hide myself -among some thick bushes near the road. As these thickets -are generally full of wild beasts, I found my situation rather -unpleasant, sitting in the dark, holding my horse by the nose -with both hands, to prevent him from neighing, and equally afraid -of the natives without and the wild beasts within. My -fears, however, were soon dissipated; for the people, after -looking round the thicket, and perceiving nothing, went away, and -I hastened to the more open parts of the wood, where I pursued my -journey east-south-east, until past midnight, when the joyful cry -of frogs induced me once more to deviate a little from my route, -in order to quench my thirst. Having accomplished this from -a large pool of rain-water, I sought for an open place, with a -single tree in the midst, under which I made my bed for the -night. I was disturbed by some wolves towards morning, -which induced me to set forward a little before day; and having -passed a small village called Wassalita, I came about ten -o’clock (July 5th), to a negro town called Wawra, which -properly belongs to Kaarta, but was at this time tributary to -Mansong, King of Bambarra.</p> -<h2>CHAPTER XV.<br /> -<span class="GutSmall">NEGRO CURIOSITY; A MESSAGE FROM THE -KING.</span></h2> -<p><span class="smcap">Wawra</span> is a small town surrounded -with high walls, and inhabited by a mixture of Mandingoes and -Foulahs. The inhabitants employ themselves chiefly in -cultivating corn, which they exchange with the Moors for -salt. Here, being in security from the Moors, and very much -fatigued, I resolved to rest myself; and meeting with a hearty -welcome from the dooty, whose name was Flancharee, I laid myself -down upon a bullock’s hide, and slept soundly for about two -hours. The curiosity of the people would not allow me to -sleep any longer. They had seen my saddle and bridle, and -were assembled in great numbers to learn who I was and whence I -came. Some were of opinion that I was an Arab; others -insisted that I was some Moorish Sultan, and they continued to -debate the matter with such warmth that the noise awoke me. -The dooty (who had formerly been at Gambia) at last interposed in -my behalf, and assured them that I was certainly a white man; but -he was convinced from my appearance that I was a poor one.</p> -<p><i>July</i> 6.—It rained very much in the night, and at -daylight I departed in company with a negro who was going to a -town called Dingyee for corn; but we had not proceeded above a -mile before the ass upon which he rode threw him off, and he -returned, leaving me to prosecute the journey by myself.</p> -<p>I reached Dingyee about noon, but the dooty and most of the -inhabitants had gone into the fields to cultivate corn. An -old Foulah, observing me wandering about the town, desired me to -come to his hut, where I was well entertained; and the dooty, -when he returned, sent me some victuals for myself and corn for -my horse.</p> -<p><i>July</i> 7.—In the morning, when I was about to -depart, my landlord, with a great deal of diffidence, begged me -to give him a lock of my hair. He had been told, he said, -that white men’s hair made a saphie that would give to the -possessor all the knowledge of white men. I had never -before heard of so simple a mode of education, but instantly -complied with the request.</p> -<p>I reached a small town called Wassiboo, about twelve -o’clock, where I was obliged to stop until an opportunity -should offer of procuring a guide to Satilé, which is -distant a very long day’s journey, through woods without -any beaten path. I accordingly took up my residence at the -dooty’s house, where I stayed four days, during which time -I amused myself by going to the fields with the family to plant -corn. Cultivation is carried on here on a very extensive -scale; and, as the natives themselves express it, “Hunger -is never known.” In cultivating the soil the men and -women work together. They use a large sharp hoe, much -superior to that used in Gambia, but they are obliged, for fear -of the Moors, to carry their arms with them to the field. -The master, with the handle of his spear, marks the field into -regular plats, one of which is assigned to every three -slaves.</p> -<p>On the evening of the 11th eight of the fugitive Kaartans -arrived at Wassiboo. They had found it impossible to live -under the tyrannical government of the Moors, and were now going -to transfer their allegiance to the King of Bambarra. They -offered to take me along with them as far as Satilé, and I -accepted the offer.</p> -<p><i>July</i> 12.—At daybreak we set out, and travelled -with uncommon expedition until sunset. We stopped only -twice in the course of the day, once at a watering-place in the -woods, and at another time at the ruins of a town formerly -belonging to Daisy, called <i>Illa-compe</i> (the -corn-town). When we arrived in the neighbourhood of -Satilé, the people who were employed in the corn-fields, -seeing so many horsemen, took us for a party of Moors, and ran -screaming away from us. The whole town was instantly -alarmed, and the slaves were seen in every direction driving the -cattle and horses towards the town. It was in vain that one -of our company galloped up to undeceive them; it only frightened -them the more; and when we arrived at the town we found the gates -shut, and the people all under arms. After a long parley we -were permitted to enter, and, as there was every appearance of a -tornado, the dooty allowed us to sleep in his <i>baloon</i>, and -gave us each a bullock’s hide for a bed.</p> -<p><i>July</i> 13.—Early in the morning we again set -forward. The roads were wet and slippery, but the country -was very beautiful, abounding with rivulets, which were increased -by the rain into rapid streams. About ten o’clock we -came to-the rains of a village which had been destroyed by war -about six months before.</p> -<p>About noon my horse was so much fatigued that I could not keep -up with my companions; I therefore dismounted, and desired them -to ride on, telling them that I would follow as soon as my horse -had rested a little. But I found them unwilling to leave -me; the lions, they said, were very numerous in those parts, and -though they might not so readily attack a body of people, they -would soon find out an individual; it was therefore agreed that -one of the company should stay with me to assist in driving my -horse, while the others passed on to Galloo to procure lodgings, -and collect grass for the horses before night. Accompanied -by this worthy negro, I drove my horse before me until about four -o’clock, when we came in sight of Galloo, a considerable -town, standing in a fertile and beautiful valley surrounded with -high rocks.</p> -<p>Early next morning (July 14th), having first returned many -thanks to our landlord for his hospitality, while my -fellow-travellers offered up their prayers that he might never -want, we set forward, and about three o’clock arrived at -Moorja, a large town, famous for its trade in salt, which the -Moors bring here in great quantities, to exchange for corn and -cotton cloth. As most of the people here are Mohammedans, -it is not allowed to the kafirs to drink beer, which they call -<i>neodollo</i> (corn spirit), except in certain houses. In -one of these I saw about twenty people sitting round large -vessels of this beer with the greatest conviviality, many of them -in a state of intoxication.</p> -<p>On the morning of the 16th we again set forward, accompanied -by a coffle of fourteen asses, loaded with salt, bound for -Sansanding. The road was particularly romantic, between two -rocky hills; but the Moors sometimes lie in wait here to plunder -strangers. As soon as we had reached the open country the -master of the salt coffle thanked us for having stayed with him -so long, and now desired us to ride on. The sun was almost -set before we reached Datliboo. In the evening we had a -most tremendous tornado. The house in which we lodged being -flat-roofed, admitted the rain in streams; the floor was soon -ankle-deep, the fire extinguished, and we were left to pass the -night upon some bundles of firewood that happened to lie in a -corner.</p> -<p><i>July</i> 17.—We departed from Datliboo, and about ten -o’clock passed a large coffle returning from Sego with -corn-hoes, mats, and other household utensils. At five -o’clock we came to a large village where we intended to -pass the night, but the dooty would not receive us. When we -departed from this place my horse was so much fatigued that I was -under the necessity of driving him, and it was dark before we -reached Fanimboo, a small village, the dooty of which no sooner -heard that I was a white man than he brought out three old -muskets, and was much disappointed when he was told that I could -not repair them.</p> -<p><i>July</i> 18.—We continued our journey, but, owing to -a light supper the preceding night we felt ourselves rather -hungry this morning, and endeavoured to procure some corn at a -village, but without success.</p> -<p>My horse becoming weaker and weaker every day, was now of very -little service to me; I was obliged to drive him before me for -the greater part of the day, and did not reach Geosorro until -eight o’clock in the evening. I found my companions -wrangling with the dooty, who had absolutely refused to give or -sell them any provisions; and as none of us had tasted victuals -for the last twenty-four hours, we were by no means disposed to -fast another day if we could help it. But finding our -entreaties without effect, and being very much fatigued, I fell -asleep, from which I was awakened about midnight with the joyful -information <i>Kinne nata</i>! (“The victuals are -come”) This made the remainder of the night pass away -pleasantly, and at daybreak, July 19th, we resumed our journey, -proposing to stop at a village called Doolinkeaboo for the night -following. My fellow-travellers, having better horses than -myself, soon left me, and I was walking barefoot, driving my -horse, when I was met by a coffle of slaves, about seventy in -number, coming from Sego. They were tied together by their -necks with thongs of a bullock’s hide, twisted like a -rope—seven slaves upon a thong, and a man with a musket -between every seven. Many of the slaves were -ill-conditioned, and a great number of them women. In the -rear came Sidi Mahomed’s servant, whom I remembered to have -seen at the camp of Benowm. He presently knew me, and told -me that these slaves were going to Morocco by the way of Ludamar -and the Great Desert.</p> -<p>In the afternoon, as I approached Doolinkeaboo, I met about -twenty Moors on horseback, the owners of the slaves I had seen in -the morning. They were well armed with muskets, and were -very inquisitive concerning me, but not so rude as their -countrymen generally are. From them I learned that Sidi -Mahomed was not at Sego, but had gone to Kancaba for -gold-dust.</p> -<p>When I arrived at Doolinkeaboo I was informed that my -fellow-travellers had gone on, but my horse was so much fatigued -that I could not possibly proceed after them. The dooty of -the town at my request gave me a draught of water, which is -generally looked upon as an earnest of greater hospitality, and I -had no doubt of making up for the toils of the day by a good -supper and a sound sleep; unfortunately, I had neither the one -nor the other. The night was rainy and tempestuous, and the -dooty limited his hospitality to the draught of water.</p> -<p><i>July</i> 20.—In the morning I endeavoured, both by -entreaties and threats, to procure some victuals from the dooty, -but in vain. I even begged some corn from one of his female -slaves, as she was washing it at the well, and had the -mortification to be refused. However, when the dooty was -gone to the fields, his wife sent me a handful of meal, which I -mixed with water and drank for breakfast. About eight -o’clock I departed from Doolinkeaboo, and at noon stopped a -few minutes at a large korree, where I had some milk given me by -the Foulahs, and hearing that two negroes were going from thence -to Sega, I was happy to have their company, and we set out -immediately. About four o’clock we stopped at a small -village, where one of the negroes met with an acquaintance, who -invited us to a sort of public entertainment, which was conducted -with more than common propriety. A dish, made of sour milk -and meal, called <i>sinkatoo</i>, and beer made from their corn, -was distributed with great liberality, and the women were -admitted into the society, a circumstance I had never before -observed in Africa. There was no compulsion—every one -was at liberty to drink as he pleased—they nodded to each -other when about to drink, and on setting down the calabash -commonly said <i>Berka</i> (“Thank you”). Both -men and women appeared to be somewhat intoxicated, but they were -far from being quarrelsome.</p> -<p>Departing from thence, we passed several large villages, where -I was constantly taken for a Moor and became the subject of much -merriment to the Bambarrans, who, seeing me drive my horse before -me, laughed heartily at my appearance. “He has been -at Mecca,” says one, “you may see that by his -clothes;” another asked me if my horse was sick; a third -wished to purchase it, &c., so that, I believe, the very -slaves were ashamed to be seen in my company. Just before -it was dark we took up our lodging for the night at a small -village, where I procured some victuals for myself and some corn -for my horse, at the moderate price of a button; and was told -that I should see the Niger (which the negroes call Joliba, or -the Great Water) early the next day. The lions are here -very numerous; the gates are shut a little after sunset, and -nobody allowed to go out. The thoughts of seeing the Niger -in the morning, and the troublesome buzzing of mosquitoes, -prevented me from shutting my eyes during the night; and I had -saddled my horse, and was in readiness before daylight, but, on -account of the wild beasts, we were obliged to wait until the -people were stirring and the gates opened. This happened to -be a market day at Sego, and the roads were everywhere filled -with people carrying different articles to sell. We passed -four large villages, and at eight o’clock saw the smoke -over Sego.</p> -<p>As we approached the town I was fortunate enough to overtake -the fugitive Kaartans, to whose kindness I had been so much -indebted in my journey through Bambarra. They readily -agreed to introduce me to the king; and we rode together through -some marshy ground, where, as I was anxiously looking around for -the river, one of them called out, <i>Geo affili</i>! (“See -the water!”) and, looking forwards, I saw with infinite -pleasure the great object of my mission—the long-sought-for -majestic Niger, glittering in the morning sun, as broad as the -Thames at Westminster, and flowing slowly to <i>the -eastward</i>. I hastened to the brink, and having drunk of -the water, lifted up my fervent thanks in prayer to the Great -Ruler of all things for having thus far crowned my endeavours -with success.</p> -<p>The circumstance of the Niger’s flowing towards the -east, and its collateral points, did not, however, excite my -surprise, for, although I had left Europe in great hesitation on -this subject, and rather believed that it ran in the contrary -direction, I had made such frequent inquiries during my progress -concerning this river, and received from the negroes of different -nations such clear and decisive assurances that its general -course was <i>towards the rising sun</i>, as scarce left any -doubt on my mind, and more especially as I knew that Major -Houghton had collected similar information in the same -manner.</p> -<p>Sego, the capital of Bambarra, at which I had now arrived, -consists, properly speaking, of four distinct towns—two on -the northern bank of the Niger, called Sego Korro and Sego Boo; -and two on the southern bank, called Sego Soo Korro and Sego See -Korro. They are all surrounded with high mud walls. -The houses are built of clay, of a square form with flat -roofs—some of them have two storeys, and many of them are -whitewashed. Besides these buildings, Moorish mosques are -seen in every quarter; and the streets, though narrow, are broad -enough for every useful purpose, in a country where wheel -carriages are entirely unknown. From the best inquiries I -could make, I have reason to believe that Sego contains -altogether about thirty thousand inhabitants. The King of -Bambarra constantly resides at Sego See Korro. He employs a -great many slaves in conveying people over the river, and the -money they receive (though the fare is only ten kowrie shells for -each individual) furnishes a considerable revenue to the king in -the course of a year. The canoes are of a singular -construction, each of them being formed of the trunks of two -large trees rendered concave, and joined together, not side by -side, but endways—the junction being exactly across the -middle of the canoe: they are therefore very long, and -disproportionably narrow, and have neither decks nor masts: they -are, however, very roomy, for I observed in one of them four -horses and several people crossing over the river. When we -arrived at this ferry, with a view to pass over to that part of -the town in which the king resides, we found a great number -waiting for a passage: they looked at me with silent wonder, and -I distinguished with concern many Moors among them. There -were three different places of embarkation, and the ferrymen were -very diligent and expeditious; but from the crowd of people I -could not immediately obtain a passage, and sat down upon the -bank of the river to wait for a more favourable -opportunity. The view of this extensive city—the -numerous canoes upon the river—the crowded population, and -the cultivated state of the surrounding country—formed -altogether a prospect of civilisation and magnificence which I -little expected to find in the bosom of Africa.</p> -<p>I waited more than two hours without having an opportunity of -crossing the river, during which time the people who had crossed -carried information to Mansong, the king, that a white man was -waiting for a passage, and was coming to see him. He -immediately sent over one of his chief men, who informed me that -the king could not possibly see me until he knew what had brought -me into his country; and that I must not presume to cross the -river without the king’s permission. He therefore -advised me to lodge at a distant village, to which he pointed, -for the night, and said that in the morning he would give me -further instructions how to conduct myself. This was very -discouraging. However, as there was no remedy, I set off -for the village, where I found, to my great mortification, that -no person would admit me into his house. I was regarded -with astonishment and fear, and was obliged to sit all day -without victuals in the shade of a tree; and the night threatened -to be very uncomfortable—for the wind rose, and there was -great appearance of a heavy rain—and the wild beasts are so -very numerous in the neighbourhood that I should have been under -the necessity of climbing up a tree and resting amongst the -branches. About sunset, however, as I was preparing to pass -the night in this manner, and had turned my horse loose that he -might graze at liberty, a woman, returning from the labours of -the field, stopped to observe me, and perceiving that I was weary -and dejected, inquired into my situation, which I briefly -explained to her; whereupon, with looks of great compassion, she -took up my saddle and bridle, and told me to follow her. -Having conducted me into her hut, she lighted up a lamp, spread a -mat on the floor, and told me I might remain there for the -night. Finding that I was very hungry, she said she would -procure me something to eat. She accordingly went out, and -returned in a short time with a very fine fish, which, having -caused to be half broiled upon some embers, she gave me for -supper. The rites of hospitality being thus performed -towards a stranger in distress, my worthy benefactress (pointing -to the mat, and telling me I might sleep there without -apprehension) called to the female part of her family, who had -stood gazing on me all the while in fixed astonishment, to resume -their task of spinning cotton, in which they continued to employ -themselves great part of the night. They lightened their -labour by songs, one of which was composed extempore, for I was -myself the subject of it. It was sung by one of the young -women, the rest joining in a sort of chorus. The air was -sweet and plaintive, and the words, literally translated, were -these:—“The winds roared, and the rains fell. -The poor white man, faint and weary, came and sat under our -tree. He has no mother to bring him milk, no wife to grind -his corn. <i>Chorus</i>.—Let us pity the white man, -no mother has he,” &c. &c. Trifling as this -recital may appear to the reader, to a person in my situation the -circumstance was affecting in the highest degree. I was -oppressed by such unexpected kindness, and sleep fled from my -eyes. In the morning I presented my compassionate landlady -with two of the four brass buttons which remained on my -waistcoat—the only recompense I could make her.</p> -<p><i>July</i> 21.—I continued in the village all this day -in conversation with the natives, who came in crowds to see me, -but was rather uneasy towards evening to find that no message had -arrived from the king, the more so as the people began to whisper -that Mansong had received some very unfavourable accounts of me -from the Moors and slatees residing at Sego, who, it seems, were -exceedingly suspicious concerning the motives of my -journey. I learned that many consultations had been held -with the king concerning my reception and disposal; and some of -the villagers frankly told me that I had many enemies, and must -expect no favour.</p> -<p><i>July</i> 22.—About eleven o’clock a messenger -arrived from the king, but he gave me very little -satisfaction. He inquired particularly if I had brought any -present, and seemed much disappointed when he was told that I had -been robbed of everything by the Moors. When I proposed to -go along with him, he told me to stop until the afternoon, when -the king would send for me.</p> -<p><i>July</i> 23.—In the afternoon another messenger -arrived from Mansong, with a bag in his hands. He told me -it was the king’s pleasure that I should depart forthwith -from the vicinage of Sego; but that Mansong, wishing to relieve a -white man in distress, had sent me five thousand kowries, to -enable me to purchase provisions in the course of my journey: the -messenger added, that if my intentions were really to proceed to -Jenné, he had orders to accompany me as a guide to -Sansanding. I was at first puzzled to account for this -behaviour of the king; but from the conversation I had with the -guide, I had afterwards reason to believe that Mansong would -willingly have admitted me into his presence at Sego, but was -apprehensive he might not be able to protect me against the blind -and inveterate malice of the Moorish inhabitants. His -conduct, therefore, was at once prudent and liberal. The -circumstances under which I made my appearance at Sego were -undoubtedly such as might create in the mind of the king a -well-warranted suspicion that I wished to conceal the true object -of my journey. He argued, probably, as my guide argued, -who, when he was told that I had come from a great distance, and -through many dangers, to behold the Joliba river, naturally -inquired if there were no rivers in my own country, and whether -one river was not like another. Notwithstanding this, and -in spite of the jealous machinations of the Moors, this -benevolent prince thought it sufficient that a white man was -found in his dominions, in a condition of extreme wretchedness, -and that no other plea was necessary to entitle the sufferer to -his bounty.</p> -<h2>FOOTNOTES</h2> -<p><a name="footnote41"></a><a href="#citation41" -class="footnote">[41]</a> I believe that similar charms or -amulets, under the names of <i>domini</i>, <i>grigri</i>, -<i>fetich</i>, &c., are common in all parts of Africa.</p> -<p><a name="footnote70"></a><a href="#citation70" -class="footnote">[70]</a> Maana is within a short distance -of the ruins of Fort St. Joseph, on the Senegal river, formerly a -French factory.</p> -<p>***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TRAVELS IN THE INTERIOR OF AFRICA, -VOL. 1 [OF 2]***</p> -<pre> - - -***** This file should be named 5266-h.htm or 5266-h.zip****** - - -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: -http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/5/2/6/5266 - - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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